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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/10403-0.txt b/10403-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..289f83a --- /dev/null +++ b/10403-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9582 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 10403 *** + +'TWIXT FRANCE AND SPAIN; + +Or, A Spring in the Pyrenees + +BY + +E. ERNEST BILBROUGH. + + + + + + + +[Illustration: MAP OF THE PYRENEES +(To accompany "TWIXT FRANCE & SPAIN") +With the Principal Peaks, Rivers & Roads.] + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +CHAPTER I. + +PAU. + +Trains and steamers--Bordeaux and its hotels--Lamothe +--Morcenx--Dax--Puyoo--Orthez--First impressions of Pau--The hotels and +pensions--Amusements--Pension Colbert--Making up parties for the +Pyrenees--The Place Royale and the view--The castle of Pau and its +approaches--Origin of name--Historical notes--The towers--Visiting +hours--The tapestries--The wonderful bedstead--The delusive +tortoiseshell cradle--The "Tour de la Monnaie"--The park--The Billères +plains--Tennis and golf--The Route de Billères and the Billères +woods--French _sportsmen_--Hunting--Racing--Lescar and its old +cathedral--Fontaine de Marnières--The bands--The Parc Beaumont +--Ballooning--The Casino--Polo--The cemetery--The churches of +St. Martin and St. Jacques--The "old world and the new"--Rides and +drives--to Bétharram--The start--Peasants and their ways--Vines +trained by the roadside--Sour grapes--The "March of the Men of Garlic" +--Coarraze--Henry IV.'s Castle--Bétharram--The ivied bridge--The +inn--The "Via Crucis"--Assat and Gélos--The Coteaux--Perpignaa +--Sketching with a donkey-cart--Over the Coteaux to Gan--The +drive to Piétat--Picnicking and rejected attentions--The +church--Feather moss--Bizanos--Carnival time--"Poor Pillicoddy" +--"Idyllic Colbert." + + +CHAPTER II. + +BAGNÈRES DE BIGORRE. + +Backward spring--Hôtel Beau Séjour--Effect of the war of '70 on the +English colony--The "Coustous"--The Church of St. Vincent--Géruzet's +marble works--Donkeys--Up the Monné--Bains de Santé--Bains de Grand +Pré--Salut Avenue and baths--"Ai-ue, Ai-ue"--Luncheon--Daffodils--The +summit and the view--The "Castel-Mouly"--The Tapére--Mde. Cottin--Mont +Bédat--Gentians--The Croix de Manse--"The Lady's Farewell to her +Asinine Steed"--Market-day--The old iron and shoe dealers--Sunday--A +cat fight--The English Church--To the Col d'Aspin--"The Abbé's +Song"--Baudéan--Campan, its people and church--Wayside chapels--Ste. +Marie--The route to Gripp, &c.--Payole--The pine forest--The Col +d'Aspin--The view from the Monné Rouge--"The Plaint of the Weather-beaten +Pine"--The Menu at Payole--Hurrah for the milk!--Departures--Divine +music--Asté--Gabrielle d'Estrelle--The ivied ruins--The church-- +Pitton de Tournefort--Gerde--The pigeon traps--The cattle market +--The Jacobin tower--Theatre--Grand Etablissement des Thermes +--Hospice Civil--Eglise des Carmes--Mount Olivet--Madame Cheval, +her cakes and tea--Bigorre in tears + + +CHAPTER III. + +LOURDES. + +The journey to Tarbes--The Buffet and the Nigger--Lourdes station in +the wet--Importunate "Cochers"--Hôtel des Pyrénées--"Red tape" and +Porters--Lourdes in sunshine--Sightseeing--The "Rue de la Grotte"-- +"The Cry of the Lourdes Shopkeepers"--Candle-sellers--The +Grotto--Abject reverence--The Church--Saint Bernard--Interior of +church--The panorama--Admirable effect--Rue du Fort--The castle--The +view from the Tower--Pie de Mars, or Ringed Ousels + + +CHAPTER IV. + +ARGELÈS. + +Road _v_. rail--Scenes, sublime and ridiculous--Hôtel +d'Angleterre--Questions and "The Argelès Shepherd's Reply"--A forbidden +path--The ride to Ges, Serres, Salluz, and Ourous--Argelès +church--Route Thermale--Ges--The tree in the path--"A regular +fix"--Serres--"It's a stupid foal that doesn't know its own mother" +--A frothing stream--A fine view--Pigs in clover--Salluz +--Ourous--Contented villagers--The high road--The bridge on the +Pierrefitte road--Advice to sketchers--"Spring's Bitters and +Sweets"--The "witch of the hills"--Large green lizards--"Jeannette's +Lamb"--Round the Argelès valley--Château de Beaucens--Villelongue-- +Soulom--The old church--Hôtel de la Poste, Pierrefitte--St. Savin--The +verger and the ancient church--Cagots--"The Organ's Tale"--St. Savin's +tomb--The Château de Miramont--Jugged Izard--Market-day--Sour bread and +the remedy--Arrival of the first parcel. + + +CHAPTER V. + +CAUTERETS. + +Hôtel de la Poste, Pierrefitte--The Gorge--Its majestic beauty--The +resemblance to the Llanberis Pass--Mrs. Blunt becomes poetical--Zinc +mines--Le Pont de Médiabat--Entering the town--The Rue Richelieu and +Hôtel du Parc--Winter's seal upon them still--Thermes des +Oeufs--Thermes de César--The Casino and Esplanade des Oeufs--A good +dinner and the menu--The start for the Col de Riou--The Grange de la +Reine Hortense--The pines--Miss Blunt's "Exhortation to the First +Snow"--The dogs and their gambols--Defeated, but not discouraged--To +the Cérizey Cascade--The baths of La Raillère, Petit St. Sauveur, and +Le Pré--Cascade de Lutour--The Marcadau Gorge--Scenery--Pic de +Gaube--At the Cérizey Cascade--The Pont d'Espagne and Lac de +Gaube--Pont de Benqués--Lutour valley--Various excursions up same--The +"Parc"--Allées de Cambasque--The Peguère--The "Pagoda" villa-- +Promenade du Mamelon Vert--The road's up again--Blows and blasts--The +bishop's arrival--Enthusiasm, pomposity, and benedictions--The pilgrims +at large--They start on an excursion--The market and Hôtel de +Ville--The grocer's opinion--Pyrenean dogs and their treatment--The +dog-fancier--Smiles and temper--Bargaining displaced--No dog after all! + + +CHAPTER VI. + +LUZ AND BARÈGES. + +Rain at starting--A blighted view, yet lovely still--Pont +d'Enfer--Nature's voice--Sère and Esquiez--Luz--Its situation and +status--An old house--The ancient church of the Templars--La Chapelle +de St. Roch--Pyrenean museum--Hôtel de l'Univers--Château de Ste. +Marie--"The Jackdaw's Causerie"--A new "diet of worms"--The new +bathing establishment--To Barèges--Pic d'Ayré--Esterre--Viella +--Betpouey--Mill conduits--Cercle des Etrangers--Opinion of the +town--Grand Etablissement--Promenade Horizontale--Hospice de Ste. +Eugénie--"The Jay of Barèges"--Wood anemones--Hepaticas--Valley +of Lienz--Pic de Lienz--Pic d'Ayré's summit--Pic de Néouville--Mountain +rhododendrons--_Anemone vernalis_ + + +CHAPTER VII. + +ST. SAUVEUR. + +Pont de Pescadère--Sassis--Gave de Gavarnie--St. Sauveur--Hôtel de +France--Pont Napoléon--Napoleon's pillar--Bee orchids--Chapel of +Solferino--The view from thence--Ne'er a hermit but for gold--Luz +cemetery--Luz post-office--Short cuts--Pharmacie Claverie--Jardin à +l'Anglaise--Ascent of Pic de Bergons--Villenave--The shepherds' +huts--Lunch--Snow, its use and abuse--On foot--"Excelsior"--Dangerous +footing--The last crest but one--The view--Gavarnie and Argelès in +sight--A lazy guide--A "fast" bit--Mountain flowers--Mr. Sydney to the +fore--A short walk and a good view--To Sazos and Grust--The bathing +establishments--Sazos: the old church--The belfry--Chiming +extraordinary--Various promenades--Gems of hill and vale + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +GAVARNIE. + +A "falling glass"--The wonderful echo--Cascade Lassariou--Sia and its +bridge--Pont de Desdouroucat--"Changing scenes"--Bugaret torrent--The +Piméné--Bué--Gèdre--Brêche de Roland in the distance--The +"Grotto"--Scenery at fivepence per head--Daffodils--Lofty +summits--Cascade d'Arroudet--Chaos--Valley of the "Ten Thousand Rocks," +Amoy--A dirty avalanche--The Sugar-loaf--Travellers' troubles +--Importunate females--Hotel des Voyageurs--Poc--Guide or no +guide--Chute de Lapaca--The guardian summits of the Cirque--Cascade du +Marboré--Chandelles du Marboré--The Cirque--Its marvellous +beauty--Reluctantly returning--"The Guide's Auction"--"Two women +enough for a market, and three for a fair"--A Yankee tale--Sketching +and flowers--Tempers and appetites + + +CHAPTER IX. + +FROM LUZ AND ST. SAUVEUR TO BAGNÈRES DE LUCHON. + +A smiling valley--Lourdes again--The chapel in the crypt--St. Peter's +statue--Burnished toes--Solemn quietude--Preparing for the great +pilgrimage--"Ornamented" crosses--Mr. Sydney's new vocation, "Guide, +Philosopher, and Friend"--Bigorre again--An open-air concert +--Harmonious echoes--Paying through the nose--The fête at +Payole--Sport à la française--Costumes--The view from the Col +d'Aspin--Arreau--Quaint houses--La Chapelle de St. Exupère--A whining +"gardien"--Eglise de Notre Dame--The river Neste--Hôtel de +France--Bordères--Avajan--Louderville--Oxslips and cowslips--Wild +narcissus--Col de Peyresourde--The view--Garin--Cazaux--St. +Aventin--Lovely avenues--Our destination + + +CHAPTER X. + +BAGNÈRES DE LUCHON. + +The bathing establishment and its surroundings--The lovely +_Allées_--Montauban church and cascade--The Villa Russe and its +genial host--Various excursions--Orphanage of Notre Dame de +Rocher--The Vallée du Lys--The Rue d'Enfer and cascades--A lively +scene--The view from Superbagnères--Loading wood--"The Oxen's +Appeal"--Visit to the Orphanage--A "holy" relic--To Bosost--St. +Mamet--"A stumbling-block"--Cascade of Sidonie--Horse tricks and +jockey dodges--Lizards in flight--Fashion on a donkey--On the Portillon +'twixt France and Spain--The valley of Aran--Snug Bosost--A curious +inn--Children with artistic bent--A bright pathway--Missing much, but +thankful still + + +CHAPTER XI. + +ST. BERTRAND DE COMMINGES. + +Keeping to old friends--Valley history--Entering the Garonne +valley--The picturesque St. Béat--St. Béat to Viella--Memories of the +lovely Thames--Baths of Ste. Marie--Loures--The cross-roads--Weak +walls--Entering St. Bertrand--An ancient house--The inn--A charming +garden--The cathedral--A national disgrace--"The Crocodile of St. +Bertrand"--The tomb of Hugues de Chatillon--Travelling desecraters--St. +Bertrand's rod--The ruined cloisters--Desolation--Swine +feeding--Montrejeau--The buffet--No milk!--French railway +officials--Trying experiences + + +CHAPTER XII. + +EAUX BONNES AND EAUX CHAUDES. + +Carriage _v_. diligence--Early birds--Height of absurdity +--Diminutive donkeys--A whitened region--"Crystal clear"--Washerwomen +and their gamps--A useful townhall--A half-way house--Moralising--A +much-loved pipe--An historic ruin--A noteworthy strong box--"Ici on +rase"--Where are the bears?--Women in gaiters--Picturesque costumes--A +lovely road--A "perfect" cure--A spring scene--A billiard-playing +priest--A well-placed pavilion--The Valentin and its cascades-- +Through solid rock--Gaps in the road--A grand scene--Wanted, an +artist--A fine torrent--Professional fishers--Lucky guests +--Musings--Poor Mr. Tubbins--Bonnes _v_. Chaudes--Over the +Col de Gourzy--Peculiar teams--Guelder roses--Spinning + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +BIARRITZ. + +A warm ride--Bayonne--A "Noah's ark" landscape-- +Amusements--Bathing--Shells--Cavillers--A canine feat--The pier and +rocks--A restless sea--"The Three Cormorants"--Dragon's-mouth Rock--To +the lighthouse--Maiden-hair ferns--Mrs. Blunt's adventure--The drive +round the lakes--_Osmunda regalis_ ferns--The pine-woods near the +bar--St. Etienne and the Guards' cemetery--Croix de Mouguère--Cambo and +the Pas de Roland--Anemones--A fat couple--A French scholar--Hendaye-- +Fuenterabia--A quaint old-world town--The Bidassoa--Pasages--San +Sebastien--The Citadol and graves--The "Silent Sisters"--Raised +prices--Parasols and spectacles + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +CONCLUSION. + +"Where duty leads"--Resorts in the Eastern Pyrenees--Caen--"Riou"--Our +paths diverge--"The Lesson of the Mountains"--Farewell + + * * * * * + +APPENDIX A + +APPENDIX B + +APPENDIX C + +APPENDIX D + +INDEX + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. + + + +MAP OF THE PYRENEES + +DAX + +THE TOWER OF MONCADE, ORTHEZ + +PAU (FROM THE JURANÇON SIDE OF THE GAVE) + +THE CASTLE COURTYARD + +IN THE CASTLE PARK + +THE PINE FOREST NEAR THE COL D'ASPIN + +THE "PALOMIÈRES DE GERDE" + +LOURDES (A SMALL GENERAL VIEW) + +THE "OLD FORT" AT LOURDES + +ON THE ROAD TO ARGELÈS + +A "REGULAR Fix" (by Miss BLUNT) + +A PRETTY BIT AT ARGELÈS + +CAUTERETS + +THE ASCENT OF THE COL DE Riou (by Miss BLUNT) + +THE LAC DE GAUBE + +THE GORGE NEAR PIERREFITTE + +THE ANCIENT CHURCH OF THE TEMPLARS AT LUZ + +THE CASTLE OF STE. MARIE + +BARÈGES + +ST. SAUVEUR + +PONT NAPOLÉON, ST. SAUVEUR (by Miss BLUNT) + +THE VILLAGE OF GÈDRE + +THE CHAOS NEAR GAVARNIE + +THE CIRQUE OF GAVARNIE (IN SUMMER) + +"ON THE TAREES ROAD" + +THE PEARL IN THE PEERLESS VALLEY + +THE CHURCH OF MONTAUBAN (by Miss BLUNT) + +THE RUE D'ENFER AND THE CASCADES + +ON THE ROAD TO SUPERBAGNÈRES + +ST. BERTRAND DE COMMINGES + +THE CROCODILE OF ST. BERTRAND (by Miss BLUNT) + +IN THE OLD CHURCH AT LARUNS + +CASCADE DU VALENTIN + +CRABE BRIDGE, IN THE EAUX CHAUDES GORGE + +THE BIOUS-ARTIGUES + +THE PIC DE GER + +THE ROCKS OF BIARRITZ + +THE VILLA EUGÉNIE + +MRS. BLUNT'S ADVENTURE (by Miss BLUNT):-- + + SCENE I.--BEFORE THE START + SCENE II.--THE ANCIENT STEED GREW YOUNG ONCE MORE + SCENE III.--WHO'S MY DRIVER? + +"MY PAW IS ON MY NATIVE HEATH, AND MY NAME IS 'Riou'" (by Miss BLUNT) + +"SEE MORNING'S GOLDEN RAYS," &c. + +"TOWERING ABOVE THE PLAIN" + +PANORAMA OF THE CIRQUE OF THE VALLÉE DU LYS + +PANORAMA OF THE PIC DU MIDI DE BIGORRE + + + + +PREFACE. + + +It has been my endeavour in this volume to provide an illustrated +gossiping Guide to the Spas of the Pyrenees. Unlike previous books +on the same region, it deals with the resorts in spring, when they +are most charming. A certain amount of detail--which is unavoidable +in all guide-books--has been unavoidable here, and the rhymes have +been introduced in the hope of lightening the reading. These +rhymes, as a rule, have a distinct bearing on the subject under +discussion; but they are inserted in such a manner that the reader +can omit to read them--if he objects to such frivolities--without +losing the sense of the prose. + +Very little really fresh information has been gained about these +beautiful mountains since Mr. Charles Packe published his 'Guide to +the Pyrenees' in 1867: a few more springs have been discovered, a +few more mountains have been successfully ascended, and the towns +have gradually increased in size. There have been very few of those +melancholy accidents that we so often hear of from Switzerland, +because, probably, considerably fewer tourists attempt these +mountains than attempt the Alps. In this volume no descriptions of +scaling ice-walls, searching for the lammergeiers' nests, or any +other great feats, will be found. It contains a plain account of +what may be seen and done by any party visiting the mountain +resorts in spring, without much trouble or fatigue; and the +narrative form has been adopted throughout. + +M. Doré's illustrations speak for themselves; and Miss Blunt's +spirited sketches are a valuable acquisition. + +The Appendices have been compiled with great care; and--at the +suggestion of an experienced M.D.--brief comments on the chief +springs at the various Spas, and their healing properties, have +been included in the general information. + +I beg to acknowledge my indebtedness to M. Joanne's 'Pyrenees' and +Mr. Black's 'Summer Resorts;' and I have also great pleasure in +thanking Miss Blunt for her sketches, and my friend Mr. A. H. Crow, +F.R.G.S., for his kindly assistance in correcting inaccuracies. As, +however, it is extremely difficult to completely avoid them, I +shall feel obliged for the notification of any others that may +happen to exist. + +E. E. B. + + + +INTRODUCTION. + +Considering the number of English and Americans who yearly visit +Switzerland and the Riviera, it is astonishing that so few, +comparatively, ever think of approaching nearer to the Pyrenees +than Pau. And it is more astonishing still, that those who have +been enabled to enjoy the beauty of these mountains from the Place +Royale at Pau, should ever think of leaving their vicinity without +a more intimate acquaintance with them. + +It may be, that since the various resorts have gained celebrity for +the healing powers of their waters, healthy travellers are of +opinion that they will be surrounded by a crowd of sickly +individuals, whose very appearance will spoil all the pleasure that +they might otherwise experience. That this _might be_ the case _in +the season_, at a few spas, is not to be denied, but _in spring_ +not an invalid of that kind is to be met with, and the bathing +establishments have no customers; but the scenery is everywhere at +its best. Dr. Madden writes: "The attractions of the Pyrenees are +not, however, confined to the invalid traveller, but even for the +pleasure tourist offer inducements for a pedestrian excursion in +some respects superior to any in Switzerland;" and there can be no +doubt that they have a beauty of their own quite distinct from the +grandeur of the Alps, and yet equally as wonderful in its style. + +Extending for nearly 300 miles from the foaming billows of the +Biscay to the azure waters of the Mediterranean, they form a huge +barrier "'twixt France and Spain"; gaining their name of Pyrenees +from the words "Pic Nérés," which in the _patois_ of the country +signifies "black peaks!" That this title is a misnomer for all but +three months of the year--viz., from July to October--must be +already a well-known fact; for who would call them "black" when +clothed in their garments of snow? + +The highest summits are in the Maladetta group, and the Pic Nethou +(11,170 ft.) is the highest of all; while the average height of +this magnificent range of mountains is between five and six +thousand feet. + +Luxurious valleys branch out in all directions, fed by the mountain +streams, and among the central heights the wonderful natural +amphitheatres known as Cirques stand in majestic solitude. The +Cirque of Gavarnie--the best known--possesses on a bright day in +spring such a charm, in its snowy imperial splendour, as the Alps +would fail to surpass. In scenes where a lake adds such wonderful +effect, Switzerland is quite supreme; we know of no view in the +Pyrenees, of a comparable nature, that could pretend to vie with +the harmonious loveliness of the panorama that can be seen at +sunset from Montreux across Lac Leman, when the water is rippleless +and the mountains are bathed in a rosy flood. But for all that, in +other ways--in flower-clothed slopes, in luxurious valleys, in +winding rivers and foaming cascades--the Pyrenees present pictures +that, with the freshness of springtime to aid them, cannot fail to +delight and charm. + +Four roads cross the Pyrenees from France to Spain: the Route +Nationale, from Paris to Madrid _viâ_ Bayonne; the Route +Départementale, from Bayonne to Pampeluna _viâ_ the Col d'Urdax; the +Route Nationale, from Perpignan to Barcelona _viâ_ Gerona; and the +route from Pau to Jaca _viâ_ Oloron. There are other ways of entering +Spain by the Cols (passes), but over these a horse track is the +broadest path. + +The principal bathing resorts on the French side are connected by +the splendid Route Thermale, which extends for 70 miles; but, owing +to its exposed position in some parts, especially between Eaux +Bonnes and Argelès, and Barèges and Ste. Marie, it is only wholly +open three or four months in the year! + +Of the mineral springs it is sufficient to state here that, within +the same extent of country, no other part of Europe can present +such a wonderful choice. There are three principal kinds--the +sulphurous, the saline, and the ferruginous; and over 200 springs +contribute to them. Some resorts have waters of each of these +classes, and many have at any rate two out of the three. + +Of these, fuller information is given in the Appendix, as well as +the chief uses of each, and the affections for which they have been +successfully used. + +As regards sport, unattended by much labour or fatigue, the +Pyrenees can hardly be recommended, except perhaps for fishing. +There is very good fishing in several of the rivers, but unhappily +French conservancy laws are so lax--if indeed they have any at all +--that peasants may frequently be seen at the waterside with a rod +in one hand and a capacious net in the other, so that if +unsuccessful with the first, they will at any rate not come home +empty-handed; unless some brother "sportsman" has just preceded +them over the same pools! + +Though the wolves have nearly all been poisoned, there are still +some bears to shoot in winter, and izard (a species of chamois) and +capercailzie to pursue in autumn; but the "sportsmen" are many and +the game few, and the way to their haunts lies by bad and +unfrequented paths; so that "le jeu ne vaut pas la chandelle." To +the botanist and the geologist, however, there is a splendid field, +which, varying in richness according to the locality, is more or +less rich everywhere; and besides these, the entomologist will not +visit this territory in vain. To the mountaineer these almost +numberless summits offer attractions of all kinds, from the wooded +slope with its broad mule-path, to the ice-wall only to be scaled +by the use of the rope and the hatchet. There are ascents which a +child almost might attempt in safety, and there are others where +the bravest men might well quail. + +For the ordinary pedestrian, beautiful walks abound in the vicinity +of nearly every Spa, but near St. Sauveur, Luchon, Eaux Chaudes, +and Argelès they are, we think, most charming. The roads on the +whole are excellent, and the hotels, with hardly any exceptions, +particularly clean and comfortable; and, with the one drawback of +the bread (see Appendix D)--which can be easily remedied--the food +is well cooked and well served. + +It must be understood that the succeeding chapters only describe-- +or attempt to describe--scenes that every one in moderate health +can go and enjoy for themselves, and it is in the hope that a few +more may be induced to visit the region about which they speak, +that they have ever seen the light. For accurate information about +the mountains and the best means of ascending them, no better +guide-books could be wanted than Count Russell's 'Grandes +Ascensions des Pyrénées' [Footnote: Hachette et Cie., Paris.] in +French and English, and Mr. Chas. Packe's 'Guide to the Pyrenees'; +[Footnote: Longmans and Co., London.] while for information of all +kinds Monsieur P. Joanne's 'Pyrenees,' [Footnote: Hachette et Cie., +Paris.] in French, could hardly be surpassed. For the ordinary +traveller Mr. Black's 'South of France Summer Resorts, Pyrenees,' +&c., is a compact and useful companion; and for guidance in matters +medical, Dr. Madden's 'Spas of the Pyrenees' and Dr. Lee's 'Baths +of France' are exceedingly valuable. + +With these preliminary remarks we beg to refer the reader to our +experiences of 'A Spring in the Pyrenees.' + + + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +PAU. + +Trains and Steamers--Bordeaux and its Hotels--Lamothe--Morcenx-- +Dax--Puyoo--Orthez--First impressions of Pau--The Hotels and +Pensions--Amusements--Pension Colbert--Making up parties for the +Pyrenees--The Place Royale and the view--The Castle of Pau and its +approaches--Origin of name--Historical notes--The Towers--Visiting +hours--The Tapestries--The Wonderful Bedstead--The Delusive +Tortoiseshell Cradle--The "Tour de la Monnaie"--The Park--The +Billères Plains--Tennis and Golf--The Route de Billères and the +Billères Woods--French _Sportsmen_--Hunting--Racing--Lescar and its +old Cathedral--Fontaine de Marnières--The Bands--The Pare Beaumont +--Ballooning--The Casino--Polo--The Cemetery--The Churches of St. +Martin and St. Jacques--The "Old World and the New"--Rides and +Drives--to Bétharram--The Start--Peasants and their ways--Vines +trained by the roadside--Sour Grapes--The "March of the Men of +Garlic"--Coarraze--Henry IV.'s Castle--Bétharram--The Ivied Bridge +--The Inn--The "Via Crucis"--Assat and Gélos--The Coteaux-- +Perpignaa--Sketching with a Donkey-cart--Over the Coteaux to Gan-- +The Drive to Piétat--Picnicking and Rejected Attentions--The +Church--Feather Moss--Bizanos--Carnival time--"Poor Pillicoddy"-- +"Idyllic Colbert." + + +Few Winter Resorts have gained a greater celebrity than Pau, and +its popularity yearly increases. Fifty years ago its English +visitors might have been counted by tens; to-day they must be +reckoned by thousands. But this is only during the winter and +spring; in summer it is almost entirely deserted by foreigners, few +people in fact, unless compelled by circumstances, staying after +May has passed into June. + +For many reasons it has become a favourite resort for invalids, an +important one being, its exceedingly accessible position. +Notwithstanding that it is 776 miles distant from London, fewer +changes are requisite than for many a journey of less than a +quarter of the distance. The quickest way from London is _viâ_ +Dover, Calais, Paris, Bordeaux and Dax; and as a through sleeping +carriage can be obtained from Paris to Pau, that part of the +journey is anything but formidable. For those who prefer the sea +route, the fine boats of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company which +start from Liverpool are the most preferable conveyance, though the +less expensive steamers belonging to the General Steam Navigation +Company, sailing from London, are comfortable enough in fine +weather. The former land their passengers at Pauillac, whence they +proceed to Bordeaux by tender or train; but the latter boats, being +smaller, can come right up to Bordeaux, which is a decided +advantage. + +Though the third port in France, Bordeaux can certainly not be +recommended as a stopping-place unless necessity requires it, for +the hotel-keepers generally succeed in reaping a rich harvest from +travellers passing through. + +The Hôtel de Nantes is the nearest to the quay, but the Hôtel +Richelieu will be found more moderate and more comfortable. In the +town, the grand Hôtel de France has the best reputation, but "birds +of passage" have apparently to pay for it, whereas old stagers +concur in saying that for _gentlemen_--especially those who +appreciate a good dinner--the best place is the Hôtel de Bayonne. + +Bordeaux has many fine buildings and objects of interest over which +a week can be easily spent, and for this length of time the hotel +prices are in proportion considerably less per diem; but in winter +it is especially bleak and cold, and travellers are advised to get +on to Dax or Pau as quickly as possible. The railway journey of one +hundred and forty-five miles to Pau occupies as a rule about six +hours, passing Lamothe, Morcenx, Dax, Puyoo, and Orthez. Lamothe +[Footnote: See Appendix.] (25 miles) is the junction for Arcachon, +[Footnote: See Appendix.] the celebrated winter station among the +pines, situated on the shores of a landlocked bay; and Morcenx +[Footnote: See Appendix.] (68 miles), is likewise the junction for +the Tarbes line and Bigorre. + +Dax [Footnote: See Appendix.] (92 miles) has a well-deserved +reputation for its baths, and possesses several mineral bathing +establishments, of which the "Grand Etablissement des Thermes" +stands first. The mud baths are perhaps more celebrated than those +of steam or water, being especially efficacious in severe, and +often apparently otherwise incurable, cases of rheumatism. There +are also some pleasant walks by the River Adour, and in the +neighbourhood there is a bed of fossil salt. + +Puyoo [Footnote: See Appendix.] (111-1/2 miles) is the junction for +the Bayonne line, but is without other interest. + +[Illustration: DAX.] + +Orthez [Footnote: See Appendix.] (120-3/4 miles) is of historic +interest and possesses some noteworthy remains. M. Doré has +represented the Tour de Moncade, built in 1240, with mediaeval +surroundings, and not quite as it may be seen now. It was the scene +of many of Gaston Phoebus' greatest crimes. The old fourteenth- +century bridge over the river, with its central tower, could tell +some tales too, if we could discover "sermons in stones"; and the +plain below the town was the scene of one of Wellington's many +victories in 1814. + +Two coaches start from Orthez, one to Salies (10 miles), celebrated +for its salt springs, and the other to Mauléon-Licharre, a +picturesque spot where fine views, cascades, and ruins abound. + +[Illustration: THE TOWER OF MONCADE, ORTHEZ.] + +Passing the ancient town of Lescar (140-1/2 miles)--of which we +shall have more to say later--the train is soon drawn up in the +station of Pau, and directly the traveller shows his face outside, +he is hailed by the "cochers" from the various hotels in a +bewildering chorus. This is the same, _more_ or _less_, at every +French town where English people congregate, and Pau only inclines, +if anything, towards the "_more_." + +The first impression conveyed when leaving the station and passing +along the Avenue de la Gare, is, that the town is mainly composed +of the castle and magnificent hotels which tower above the station. +This, to a certain extent, is correct, for they occupy a large +area, and the views from the windows of the hotels, as well as from +those of the castle, are the finest in the town. Issuing from the +Avenue into the "Place de la Monnaie," the ruins of the "Mint" +tower, and above them the castle itself, come into full view, after +which the road continues along the Rue Marca for a short distance, +branching afterwards to the right into the most ancient square of +the town, the Place Grammont. + +The hotels de la Poste and Henri IV. are here situated, but the +roads to the various other hotels and pensions diverge in different +directions. To the right up the Rue Bordenave and along the Rue +Henri IV. is the route to all the finest hotels, of which the +"France" is the best, and the "Gassion" the most imposing; the +others are the Belle Vue, Splendide, Beau Séjour, and de la Paix, +all with the exception of the last possessing the magnificent +mountain view, but although from the windows of the "Paix" only a +side glimpse can be obtained, yet at the same time this hotel faces +the "Place Royale," the popular resort of all classes in Pau. From +the left-hand corner of the Place Grammont a narrow street leads to +the fine church of St. Jacques, which is also the nearest way to +the grand Hôtel Continental near Trinity Church, and the Pension +Hattersly in the Rue Porte Neuve. But the route more to the left +still, leading up the hill and joining the Route de Bordeaux, past +the Haute Plante parade ground, is the usual one followed, +especially for the Pensions--Lecour, Nogués, and Maison Pieté in +the Rue d'Orléans; Pension Etcherbest, in the Passage Planté Hôtel +de Londres, on the route de Billères; and Maison Colbert, in the +Rue Montpensier. + +Well knowing the comfort of a good pension, and intending to make a +long stay, we drove straight from the station to the well-known +Maison Colbert, and were soon as comfortable as we could wish. +There are many people we are aware who detest "pensions." "We don't +approve," say they, "of meals at fixed hours, of a drawing-room +common to all, and of such a small house that everybody must know +everyone else before the first dinner is over!" Well! why should +they? They can go to the hotels; but let all those who are +suffering or delicate put away thin-skinned feelings of +superiority, till they have a good enough constitution to support +them, and in the meantime seek peace and kindness, such as may be +experienced at the Pension Colbert. + +If, on the other hand, it can be taken as a criterion that those +living in hotels are not invalids, then the visitor contingent of +Pau must consist principally of healthy people, who prefer a good +climate and lively society to the attractions that England and +America have to offer from October to May. This is hardly correct, +but there can be no doubt that more than half the foreigners +[Footnote: From the French standpoint--i.e., English and American.] +who come for that period, do so for comfort and pleasure alone. And +it is not to be wondered at. Who, that was untrammelled by the +cares of business, or shortened purse-strings, but would not gladly +exchange the bill of fare England has to offer, of London fogs, +east winds, Scotch mists, and Irish dynamite, for the handsome menu +awaiting him at Pau? Drives, kettledrums, dinners, balls, lawn +tennis, polo, pigeon-shooting, golf, racing and hunting; and, if he +particularly wishes it, a balloon ascent as well. This last-named +is an expensive pleasure, as the aeronaut, judging by the prices on +the bill, requires a substantial fee, and it is besides an +amusement life insurance companies do not readily countenance. + +Of course, if one comes to Pau merely for enjoyment, hotel life may +be preferable to that in a pension, though our experiences of the +latter mode have been very pleasant ones. It is so easy to make up +a small party for a drive or a picnic, and being all in one house +there is but little chance of any mishaps before starting, such as +individuals forgetting the time that had been fixed and keeping the +rest waiting. Above all, when planning a tour into the Pyrenees, it +is essentially necessary to form a party of some sort, if the trip +is to be carried out in the spring; for although, as we shall +endeavour to show later, the scenery is then at its best, still, +since it is not _the_ season, only one or two hotels are open in +each resort, and society is "nil." + +Then further, when people are going to travel in company for +several weeks it is well that at least they should know something +of one another, for if they all commenced "pulling different ways" +up in the mountains, the safety, or at any rate the composure of +each, would be likely to suffer. My own relations, who were with me +at first, left for England long before the mountain trip was +arranged, but we made up a very pleasant quartette before the time +for starting arrived, and accordingly visited Pau in company as +well as the mountains. This quartette consisted of Mrs. and Miss +Blunt, Mr. Sydney and myself, and though it will be seen by +subsequent chapters that the trio decided on staying a fortnight at +Biarritz in preference to following my example and spending the +time at Bagnères de Bigorre, yet we made arrangements to meet +either at Lourdes or Argelès and thenceforward to travel in +company. + +To see Pau in its beauty, winter must have given place to spring. +When the grass once more begins to grow, the trees to unfold their +tender leaves, the rivers to swell, and the birds to sing; while +yet the sun's rays cannot pierce the snowy garment on the distant +heights; then Pau is in her beauty. Passing--as we so often passed +--down the Rue Montpensier and the consecutive Rue Serviez, into the +Rue du Lycée, then turning from it to the right for a short +distance, till, with the English club at the corner on our left, we +turned into the Place Royale, and, with the fine theatre frowning +on our backs, quickly made our way between the rows of plane-trees, +but just uncurling their leaves, to the terrace whence the whole +enormous expanse of mountain can be viewed, our admiration at the +magnificent scene unfolded before us never diminished. But our +favourite time was at sunset, especially one of those warm ruddy +sunsets that tint the heavens like a superb red canopy. + +Then, leaning on the terrace wall, we admired in silence. Beneath +us lay part of the town and the railway station, the river beyond, +in one part divided and slowly flowing over its stony bed among the +alder bushes; at another, gathered together again, rushing +furiously along as though impatient to lose itself for ever in the +depths of the ocean. + +[Illustration: PAU (FROM THE JURANÇON SIDE OF THE GAVE).] + +Beyond the river, amid the varied green of tree and meadow, nestled +the scattered villages, with the hills above, here brown with bare +vineyards, there vying with the meadow's green; and in the +background behind and above all, the mighty range of snow mountains +extending as far as eye could reach, and fading in the dim haze of +distance. Then, as the sun sank lower, the soft rosy hue shone on +the castle windows, glinted through the trees of the Château Park, +dyed the swift waters of the river, and tipped the snowy crests +afar. There are few, we think, who would not, as we did, enjoy +fully the contemplation of such a scene. + +From the Place Royale to the Château is a very short distance; +turning to the right past the Church of St. Martin--a fine well- +built edifice--and the Hôtel Gassion, it stands in full view, and +the broad walk passing beneath the side arches leads into the +courtyard. In order to obtain a good view of the entrance and the +towers that guard it, it is preferable to approach the castle by +the Rue Henri IV. (a continuation of the Rue du Lycée that passes +between the theatre and the end of the Place Royale), which, when +the shops are left behind, suddenly curves to the left, to the foot +of the bridge leading direct to the main entrance. It is worth +while to stand on the bridge for a short time, and survey the whole +scene, which can hardly fail to carry the thoughts back to olden +times, and as the castle is so intimately connected with the town +of Pau, a few explanatory historical facts will not, we trust, be +considered out of place before continuing the inspection of the +edifice. The origin of the name of Pau is the Spanish "Palo," a +"stick" or a "stake," and takes us back to the time when the +Saracens had taken possession of a large part of Spain and were +making raids beyond the Pyrenees. Feeling their unprotected +position, the inhabitants of the Gave Valley made over a piece of +ground to a Prince of Bearn, on the condition that he should erect +a fortress for their defence thereon. This he agreed to do, and as +the extent of his allotment was marked out by "stakes," the castle +became known as the castle of "stakes" or Palo, which in time +became Pau. + +Its commanding position and appearance inspired confidence, and +houses soon sprang up around; and, at least a century before the +birth of Henry IV., Pau had become an important place. In time it +became the capital of the kingdom of Navarre, and later, when +Navarre, Bearn, and the "Pays Basques" were constituted as one +department in 1790, it still retained its position as chief town. + +Now to resume our inspection from the bridge. The two towers in +full view on either side of the sculptured façade, are the finest +and most prominent of the six that flank the castle, but there is +one in the interior of the court of more interest. The highest of +these two is the donjon on the left, built of brick, and known as +"La Tour de Gaston Phoebus" (112 feet). Its walls are over eight +feet in thickness. The tower on the right is known as "La Tour +Neuve," while the most interesting is that known as "La Tour de +Montaüset" or "Monte-Oiseau," in which are the ancient dungeons and +oubliettes. The porter has rooms on the ground-floor of the Gaston +Phoebus Tower, and his wife sells photographs singly and in books. +Outside, underneath and adjoining the same tower, is a small modern +(1843) chapel. + +The hours for visiting the interior of the Château are between 10 +and 12 and 2 and 4 daily, and the entrance is free, though the +guide expects a gratuity, say of one franc for one person, two +francs for three. As we were always lucky enough to be the only +people wanting to inspect, at the particular hour we went--which +was always as near ten as possible--we managed by judicious means +to calm the impetuosity of the guide, and induce him to tell his +tale slowly. If, as usually happens, other people are there at the +same time, he rattles off his lesson at such a pace that it +requires very good French scholars to even _follow_ him; to +remember what he says is out of the question. Whether by "more +judicious means," it would be possible to induce him to go round +out of hours, we do not know, never having had occasion to try, but +we certainly think it would be worth an attempt, if the visitors +could not otherwise manage to hit a time when they could go over +alone. + +Passing under one of the three arches of the façade, we traversed +the courtyard to the extremity, and while waiting for the guide to +come to us at the small side door, examined the curious sculptures +surrounding the window on the left. On the door being opened we +passed into the Salle des Gardes, and from that into the Salle à +Manger, where stands a statue of Henry IV., supposed to be more +like him than any other. Then through a succession of rooms and up +flights of stairs, and through rooms again, to describe which as +they deserve would alone fill up a small volume, but this we do not +intend to do, contenting ourselves with simply mentioning as much +of what we saw as we hope may induce everyone to follow our +example, and see them for themselves. To any lovers of a grand +view, that which may be seen from the upper windows of the castle +is almost alone worth coming for, and the tapestry which lines the +walls of many of the rooms is simply exquisite. + +The "Sports and Pastimes of the various Months" of Flanders work, +in the "Salle des Etats"--the six pieces of Gobelin work in the +Queen's Boudoir on the first floor--the five pieces of the same +work, including "Venus's toilet," in Queen Jeanne's room on the +second floor, and the four pieces of Brussels in Henry IV.'s +bedroom--also on the second floor--are only a few of the many +wonderful pieces of tapestry. + +[Illustration: THE CASTLE COURTYARD.] + +In the "Grand Reception Room," in which the massacres took place in +1569, is a fine mosaic table and Sèvres vases, besides the Flanders +tapestry. + +There are several objects of interest in Henry IV.'s room, in which +he is said to have been born 13th December, 1553, including the +magnificently carved bedstead; but the chief attraction is the +tortoise-shell cradle, which as a rule Frenchmen come only to see. +Why they should come is quite a different matter, seeing that +although a tortoise's shell might make a very comfortable cradle +for even such an illustrious infant as was Henry IV., yet as he +never had anything to do with the one in question, it is rather +absurd that year after year they should flock to see it out of +respect to him; and the absurdity is greater, since in a statement +on the wall hard by this fact is made known. None of the northern +rooms are open to the public, but the chief objects of interest +have been transferred to the other wing! + +Leaving the courtyard by the road under the side arches that leads +to the terrace, the tasteful gardening of the surroundings is +noticeable, and as soon as the lower walk is reached, the "Tour de +la Monnaie" lies in full view below. No efforts are made to keep +these ruins, in which Calvin used to preach, from crumbling into +dust. _"O tempora! O mores!"_ + +From the terrace on the other side of the Castle, the remains of +the old fosse may be seen, though houses are now built where the +water used to lie. A broad pathway encircles the edifice, and a +bridge leads from the extreme end over the Rue Marca into the +Castle Park, called also "lower plantation" (basse plante) in +distinction from the "upper plantation" (haute plante), which +surrounds the barracks. Near the road the trees are planted stiffly +in rows, but when another and smaller bridge has been traversed, +the beauty of the Park is manifest. + +[Illustration: IN THE CASTLE PARK.] + +Following the course of the river, and filled with the finest trees +and shrubs, through which the beautiful little nuthatch may +occasionally be seen flying, and among which many other birds sing--it +is indeed, with its long cool walks and pleasant glades, a lovely +promenade. The Bayonne road is the boundary on the opposite side from +the river, and just beyond the limits of the Park a path branches off +river-wards to the Billères Plains, where tennis and golf are played. +In the opposite direction another leads up under the shadow of an old +church, and joins the Route de Billères, which, starting from the Bordeaux +road, passes the Villa Lacroix and other handsome houses, and +descending throws off another branch into the Bayonne road. It then +curves in an opposite direction, and ascends, while at the same +time skirting the grounds of the Château de Billères, to the +favourite Billères woods. From the woods it communicates in a +nearly straight line with the Bordeaux road again, so that in +reality it describes three-quarters of a circle. + +These woods, though sadly disfigured by the demand for fire-wood, +are pleasant to ramble in when the soldiers are not in possession, +and there are drives through them in all directions. At one time +wild duck, pigeons, and woodcock were plentiful there, but that +time has passed, though the gallant French _sportsmen_ may still be +seen trooping through with their dogs after blackbirds and tomtits! + +Pau dearly loves excitement. Three times a week in the winter the +hounds meet in the vicinity, and many are the carriages and many +the fair occupants that congregate to see the start. It is +generally a very gay scene, with no lack of scarlet coats and good +steeds, pretty dresses and sometimes pretty faces too; and though +afterwards they enjoy many a good run, there are but few falls and +fewer broken heads. But it is over the races that Pau gets really +excited. Hunting only attracts the well-to-do, but all who can hire +or borrow even a shandry make a point of not missing the "races." +And these meetings are not few and far between, but about once a +fortnight, for there is no "Jockey Club" at Pau, and consequently +it pleases itself about the fixtures. + +The course, which is some two miles from the town on the Bordeaux +road, is overlooked by an imposing grand stand, which generally +seems well filled, though the betting is not very heavy on the +whole. We drove over one afternoon, and after waiting for three +events which to us were not very exciting, proceeded towards +Lescar. The nearest way would have been by turning to the right by +a white house on the Bordeaux road (not far from the race-course), +but we continued along it instead for some distance, finally +turning off down a narrow lane without any sign of a hedge. After +following this for a length of time, we took the road at right +angles leading between fields covered with gorse, and later, +descending one or two steep hills with trees on either side, we +reascended and entered the ancient town of Lescar, only to dip +under the tottering walls of the ancient castle--a few minutes +later--and mount again under a narrow archway to the church. + +P. Joanne in his excellent guide-book calls it "the ancient +Beneharum, destroyed about the year 841 by the Normans, rebuilt in +980 under the name of Lascurris. In the old chronicles it was +called the 'Ville Septénaire,' because it possessed, it is said, +seven churches, seven fountains, seven mills, seven woods, seven +vineyards, seven gates and seven towers on the ramparts." The +church now restored was formerly a cathedral, and there are some +fine old mosaics (11th century) to be seen under the boarding near +the altar. Jeanne d'Albret and other Béarnais sovereigns are buried +there. + +The Castle is very old, though the square tower dates from the 14th +century only. + +The whole town, so curious and ancient-looking, is well worth a +visit, and forms a contrast in its fallen splendour to Pau's rising +greatness, such as cannot fail to strike any intelligent observer. + +Passing through the town, we took the road to the right homewards, +which joins the Bayonne route, but instead of continuing along the +latter all the way, we branched off into the route de Billères, and +came by the Villa Lacroix and the Hôtel de Londres back to the +pension. + +Another road leads from the Villa Lacroix over a brook, and past +the establishment of the "Petites Soeurs des Pauvres" into the +country, and in fact to Lescar. The brook is known as the Herrère, +and by following the path to the left which runs beside it, the +"Fontaine de Marnières" is reached. The water of this fountain is +considered very pure and strengthening, and many people drink it +daily. + +The band is another attraction at Pau; twice a week in the +afternoon they play in the Place Royale, and twice in the Parc +Beaumont. The music is of a very good order, and excessively +pleasing to listen to from beneath the shade of the trees. The Parc +Beaumont is quite near the Place Royale, the principal entrance +being at the end of the Rue du Lycée, close to the Hôtel Beau +Séjour. + +Balloon ascents were often the chief attraction on Sundays, which +"all the world and his wife" went out to see. There is _a_ casino +in the Park, used occasionally for concerts, but _the_ casino is +behind the Hôtel Gassion, and though it was hardly finished enough +for comfort when we saw it, that defect will soon doubtless be +remedied. + +Polo is generally played in the "Haute Plante" (in front of the +Barracks), and bicycle races take place there also occasionally. It +is only a step from this pleasure-ground to the cemetery, and +though this nearness never affects the joy of the children on the +roundabouts or the young people swinging, yet it is another +practical example that "in the midst of life we are in death." + +The Rue Bayard--on the left of the Haute Plante--leads to the +cemetery gates, and the tombs extend behind the barracks; those of +Protestants being divided from the Roman Catholics' by a carefully +kept walk leading from the right-hand corner of the first or Roman +Catholic portion! + +There is a charm about this last resting-place in spite of its +mournfulness, and the many flowers load the air with a delicious +perfume. The marble statue of a Russian lady in fashionable +costume, over her tomb, is considered a fine piece of sculpture, +and many people go there simply to see it. + +The two principal French churches are those of St. Martin and St. +Jacques, but the latter is in every way the more beautiful. The +"Palais de Justice" stands close to St. Jacques, but facing the +Place Duplaa, where many of the best houses are situated. The Rue +d'Orléans, communicating the Place Duplaa and the Route De Bordeaux, +contains many Good French pensions, which have been previously +mentioned. + +By following the Rue St. Jacques past the church of the same name +and turning down the street which cuts it at right angles, called +the "Rue de la Fontaine", the ancient part of the town can be +reached. It may be here remarked the peculiar characteristics of +Pau, and yet probably seven visitors out of ten fail to notice it. +the other end of "Fountain Street" leads into the Rue de la +Prefecture. this is one of the very busiest streets in Pau, and if +after leaving one of the magnificent new hotels we traverse this +busy street, and then suddenly plunge down the Rue de la Fontaine +to what was once the bed of the castle fosse--where the houses are +small and dirty, and the walls and slates barely hold together, so +wretchedly old and tottering are they--where, instead of bustle and +grandeur, there is only gloom and poverty, and in place of the +enjoyment of the present, there is the longing for a lot a little +less hard in the future; we feel as though we had gone back several +centuries in as many minutes, and have a decided wish to return to +nineteenth-century civilisation again. + +We did not find the rides and drives the least pleasant of our +enjoyments, and there are so many places to visit, that picnics are +plentiful as a matter of course. + +The chief excursion from Pau is to Eaux Bonnes and Eaux Chaudes, +but as there is a slight danger of damp beds there--if you get any +beds at all--early in the year, we postponed this grand trip for +another time. + +Another long drive is to Lourdes and back, but this we did not +take, as we meant to stop a night there later; but one day we made +up a party for Bétharram, which is a long way on the same road, +and, under ordinarily kind auspices, a delightful day's outing. + +If it was less pleasant than it might have been to us, the weather +had a good deal to do with it, and the other causes may develop +themselves in narration. There were ten of us, and we started in a +grand yellow brake with four horses and a surly coachman. The +morning was excessively warm, and some of the party were of such +rotund proportions, that the thin ones were nearly lost sight of, +if they chanced to sit between them, while the warmth approached to +that of a cucumber frame with the sun on it. We attracted a good +deal of attention as we _crawled_ down the Rue Serviez and passed +the entrance to the Pare Beaumont, down the hill to Bizanos; but as +soon as the château that takes its name from the village was +reached, we met with little admiration, except from the good people +jogging along in tumble-down carts and shandries. The peasants +seemed on the whole a good-natured lot, taking a joke with a smile +often approaching a broad grin, and occasionally, but only very +_occasionally_, attempting one in return. The following is an +instance of one of these rare occasions:--We were walking beside +the Herrère stream in the direction of the Fontaine de Marnières; +several women were busy washing clothes at the water's edge, and +above, spread out in all their glory, were three huge umbrellas-- +umbrellas of the size of those used on the Metropolitan 'buses, but +of bright blue cloth on which the presence of clay was painfully +evident. We asked the price without smiling, and the women, +wondering, looked up. We said they must be very valuable, and we +would give as much as _six sous_ for any one of them. At this +moment another woman, who had been listening to the conversation +from a little garden behind, came up and said: "Those umbrellas +belong to me, and they _are_ worth a lot of money; but I will sell +you one cheap _if you promise to send it to the Exhibition!_" + +But to resume. After crossing the railway line beyond Bizanos, and +leaving the pleasant little waterfall on the right, the sun began +to pour down on us very fiercely, and all we could do, wedged in as +we were, was to appear happy and survey the country. + +It was curious to note the method of training the vines up the +various trees by the roadside. The simplicity and efficacy of the +method seemed plain enough, but with memories of the difficulty +experienced in guarding our own fruit even with glass-tipped walls +to defend it, we were forced to the conviction that in the Pyrenees +fruit stealers are unknown. Perhaps, however, the "grapes are +always sour," or sufficiently high up to give the would-be thief +time to think of the penalty, which probably would be "higher" +still. + +The road continues nearly in a direct line through Assat (5 miles), +but when that village was left behind, the mountains seemed to be +considerably nearer, and even the snow summits--a bad sign of rain +--appeared within a fairly easy walk. + +The painful odour of garlic frequently assailed our nostrils +passing through the hamlets, and though it is not quite as bad as +the Japanese root _daikon_, yet to have to talk to a man who has +been eating it, is a positive punishment. We would fain bring about +a reform among the people, getting them to substitute some other +healthily-scented vegetable in place of the objectionable one. To +this end we composed a verse to a very old but popular tune, +styling it + +"THE MARCH OF THE MEN OF GARLIC." + + Men of Garlic--large your numbers, + Long indeed your conscience slumbers, + Can't you change and eat cu-cumbers? + Men of Garlic, say! + They are sweet and tender, + Short and thick or slender. + Then, we know well your breath won't smell + And sickness' pangs engender. + Men of Garlic, stop your scorning, + Change your food and hear our warning, + See the day of Progress dawning, + Give three cheers-- + Hurray! + +Doubtless the fact of the verse being in English will militate +against its efficiency, but before we had time to turn it into +French, we had passed to the right of the quaint old town of Nay, +and were entering Coarraze (10 1/2 miles). As we bore off to the +right across the river, the old castle--where Henry IV. spent a +great part of his childhood like any peasant child--towered above +us, and the scenery around became considerably more picturesque +than any we had passed through that morning. The banks of the river +were more shapely, and the alternation of bushes and meadow, with +the varying lights and shades on the distant peaks and the nearer +slopes, would have seemed more than beautiful, if our wedged +positions and the accompanying warmth had not somewhat evaporated +our admiration. Though the heat remained, the sun had disappeared +behind huge banks of clouds, as we at length entered Bétharram (15 +miles), so, instead of pulling up at the hotel, we drove on to the +beautiful ivy-hung bridge, a great favourite with artists. This +really belongs to the hamlet of Lestelle, which adjoins Bétharram, +and is so picturesque that the villagers ought to be proud of it; +doubtless in the old days, when Notre Dame de Bétharram's shrine +was the cherished pilgrimage--now superseded by the attractions of +N. D. de Lourdes--many thousand "holy" feet crossed and recrossed +this ancient bridge! + +In order to reach the hotel we had to ascend slightly to turn the +vehicle, much to the consternation of one of the party, who, +clasping the back rail with both hands and endeavouring to look +brave, could not withhold a small scream which escaped from the +folds of her veil. + +The dining-room of the hotel smelt decidedly close, so we spread +our sumptuous lunch on tables outside; but Jupiter Pluvius soon +showed his disapproval of our plans, and forced us to go within, +where a fine specimen of a French soldier had done his best to fill +the place with smoke. However, we managed fairly well, in spite of +some sour wine which we tried, under the name of "Jurançon vieux," +for the "good of the house" and the "worse of ourselves." As the +rain passed off ere we had finished, we afterwards repaired to the +"Via Crucis," where there is a small chapel at every turn till the +"Calvary" is reached at the summit. The first chapel is beside the +road, midway between the hotel and the bridge, and the view from +the summit on a fine day is said to be very good; but when only +half-way, the rain came down in such torrents that we were glad to +return to the inn for shelter. For two hours the downpour lasted, +but it cooled the air and rendered the return journey a little more +supportable; and when we arrived at the house, we also arrived at +the decision that never again to a picnic, as far as we were +concerned, should thinness and rotundity go side by side! + +There is no doubt that a landau is the most comfortable vehicle for +a drive of any length, although some very comfortable little T- +carts, with good ponies between the shafts, can be hired too. We +often used the latter for drives to Assat and over the suspension- +bridge--so old and shaky--and home by Gélos and Jurançon; while at +other times, taking the necessaries for afternoon tea, we drove as +far as Nay, crossing the river to enter its ancient square--in +which stand the Townhall and the Maison Carrée, of historical fame +--and then leaving the tanneries and houses behind, sought some +quiet spot down by the water, for sketching and enjoying our tea. + +Rides or drives on the coteaux (hills) in the vicinity are very +pleasant, as the views from certain points are particularly fine. +Of these the most popular is to Perpignaa, two hours being +sufficient for the drive there and back. It is a nice walk for an +average pedestrian, and the road is easy to find. We generally +started in the afternoon, passing across the bridge and through +Jurançon, and where the road forks, bearing along the Gan road to +the right. Then, taking the first turning to the right, leading +between fields, we reached an avenue of trees, with a village +beyond. We then followed the road across the bridge to the left, +and kept bearing in that direction till we reached the foot of the +coteau, where there is only one route, and consequently no chance +of taking any but the right one! We heard of a case of two young +ladies going off in a donkey cart, intending to sketch the view +above Perpignaa, who, when they reached the avenue, turned down to +the right and wandered along the bank of the Gave as far as the +donkey would go, and then sketched a church steeple in despair. But +such a mistake is quite unnecessary; and they would doubtless have +remedied theirs, if they had not found it obligatory at last to +push behind in order to make the donkey move homewards. Although +very hoarse and tired when they arrived, they had voice enough left +to say they "wouldn't go sketching in a donkey cart again!" + +From the foot of the hill the road zigzags, making a fairly easy +gradient to the summit, on which stands a house whose owner kindly +allows visitors to walk about his grounds and participate in the +view. When riding, we followed the road that continues on the right +for several miles, in order to prolong the pleasure produced by the +exercise and the view. + +Another pleasant ride is by way of the coteaux to Gan, and back by +the road, or _vice versá_; but we always preferred the former, as +the horses had the hill work while fresh, and then the level home. +In the first instance we found this track by accident. We had +passed through Jurançon, and at the spot where the road forks +debated which to take, finally deciding on the left one, but this +we only followed for a few yards, taking again the first turning to +the right, which brought us over the railway line direct to the +hills. Winding up through the trees, we passed a tricyclist pushing +his machine before him, who informed us that we were on the way to +Gan. Of this, after we had ridden up and down, wound round +hillsides and passed through pleasant dingles, we were at length +assured by descending into that village, from which we got safely +home in spite of a "bolting" attempt on the part of one of the +"fiery" steeds. + +To thoroughly enjoy the longer drive to Piétat it is better to make +a picnic of it. We started about ten one lovely morning, turning to +the left beyond Jurançon, crossing the line to Oloron--on the main +road--and later on, bearing more round in the same direction, and +beginning to ascend. As on the hills to Gan, we were perpetually +mounting only to descend a great part of the distance again, but +ever and anon catching glimpses of the valley in which Assat and +Nay lay, and of Pau itself, besides the lovely snow hills +stretching as far as eye could reach. When Piétat was arrived at, +there was but little to interest us in what we saw there of a half- +finished church and two cottages; but the view on all sides after +we had walked along the grassy plateau was very lovely, especially +as the lights and shades were everywhere so perfect. Having +selected a cosy spot and spread the luncheon, we were besieged by +children anxious to sell us flowers and apples, and to share +whatever we would give them. They were hard to get rid of even with +promises of something when we had finished, and when at last they +did go, an elderly female took their place with most generous +offers of unlocking the church for us. There was an old sweet-toned +bell in front of the western door, and a half-finished sculpture of +the "Descent from the Cross" over it. The interior of the edifice +was sufficiently roofed for a portion to be utilised for prayer, +and the high altar and two lateral ones were already erected. + +After culling a quantity of the beautiful feather moss from the +hedgerows, we re-entered the carriage, and descended the hill into +the Gave valley, crossing the suspension-bridge by Assat, and +through the village into the main road, and home by Bizanos. It was +the time of the carnival, and on the following day Bizanos--which +has an evil repute for bad egg-throwing on festive occasions--was +to be the scene of the mumming. Luckily they did not attempt to +practise on us, though as we drove up through the town we met bands +of gaily-dressed individuals parading the streets. + +These bands consisted of about thirty, mostly men decked in a +preponderance of red, white, and blue, and usually accompanied by a +tableau arrangement on a cart. Every twenty yards they stopped, +went through a series of antics, supposed to be country dances, to +the tune of the cornet and a fiddle, and then brought round the +hat, frequently embracing any woman who objected to give her sous. + +A carnival such as this combines a holiday with money-making to the +mummers, and as long as they can get money in this fashion, they +certainly cannot be blamed for taking their amusement in such a +highly practical manner. + +There are several private coaches at Pau, which turn out in grand +style on race days; and balls, concerts, and kettledrums abound, +with private theatricals occasionally. We attempted to get up "Poor +Pillicoddy," but were very unlucky about it. Firstly, when in full +rehearsal, our Mrs. O'Scuttle became unwell, and we had to look for +another, and when we had found her and were getting into shape +again, her nautical husband put the whole ship on the rocks and +wrecked our hopes by losing his voice. + +However, our departure was very nigh, and packing is an excellent +cure for disappointment, though we were interrupted in that one +morning with a request to write "something" in the visitors' book. +With the memories of our pleasant stay upon us, we do not think we +can err in reproducing one contribution, which was styled + +"IDYLLIC COLBERT." + +(_With apologies to_ Mr. W. S. GILBERT.) + + If you're anxious for to dwell in a very fine hotel + By the mountain's wide expanse, + You at once had best repair to that house so good though + _chère_ + Called the "Grand Hôtel de France." + Or if for food your craze is, you still can give your praises + To the _chef_ of its cuisine_. + Your taste you need not fetter, for 'tis said in Pau, no better + Has ever yet been seen. + But this I have to say, you will not like your stay + As much as if at Pension Colbert you the time had spent, + And such a time, I'm very sure, you never would repent. + + If I'm eloquent in praise of those most peculiar days + Which now have passed away, + 'Tis to tell you, as a man, what awful risks I ran + Lest my heart should chance to stray. + I never would pooh-pooh! 'tis cruel so to do, + Though often weak and ill, + For they my plaints would stop, with a juicy mutton-chop, + Or a mild and savoury pill! + And this I have to say, you're bound to like your stay, + And never in your life I'm very sure will you repent + The time in Pension Colbert's walls and well-trimmed + garden spent. + + And if a tantalizing passion of a gay lawn tennis fashion + Should fire your love of sport, + On the neat and well-kept lawn, a net that's _never_ torn + Hangs quiv'ring o'er the court. + Or if your voice you'd raise in sweet or high-tun'd lays, + You'll find a piano there, + And _birdies_ too will sing, like mortals--that's a thing + You'll never hear elsewhere-- + And then you're bound to say that you have liked your stay, + And never in your life I'm very sure will you repent + The time in Pension Colbert's walls and well-trimm'd + garden spent. + + If for hunting you've a liking, you can don a costume striking, + And proceed to chase the fox. + Or if you're fond of driving, _perhaps_ by some contriving + You may mount a coach's box. + If picnics are your pleasure, you can go to them at leisure, + And lunch on sumptuous fare, + And though maybe, perforce, you'll get lamb without mint + sauce. + They never starve you there. + And always you will say, that you've enjoyed your stay, + And never in your life I'm very sure will you repent + The time in Pension Colbert's walls and well-trimm'd + garden spent. + +As Mrs. and Miss Blunt and Mr. Sydney had definitely decided to +spend the time at Biarritz while I stayed at Bigorre, I turned my +attention to discovering if any other acquaintances were proceeding +in the same direction as myself. In this I was successful, and in +company with Mr. H---- and his two daughters, and Mrs. Willesden +and Miss Leonards, bade "au revoir" to Pau, with the prospect of a +long spell of beautiful scenery if the clerk of the weather could +only be controlled, by longings and hopes. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +BAGNÈRES DE BIGORRE. + +Backward Spring--Hôtel Beau Séjour--Effect of the war of '70 on the +English Colony--The "Coustous"--The Church of St. Vincent-- +Géruzet's Marble Works--Donkeys--Up the Monné--Bains de Santé-- +Bains de Grand Pré--Salut Avenue and Baths--"Ai-ue, Ai-ue"-- +Luncheon--Daffodils--The Summit and the View--The "Castle-Mouly"-- +The Tapêre--Mde. Cottin--Mont Bédat--Gentians--The Croix de Manse-- +"The Lady's Farewell to her Asinine Steed"--Market-day--The Old +Iron and Shoe Dealers--Sunday--A Cat Fight--The English Church--To +the Col d'Aspin--"The Abbé's Song"--Baudéan--Campan, its People and +Church--Wayside Chapels--Ste. Marie--The route to Gripp, &c.-- +Payole--The Pine Forest--The Col d'Aspin--The View from the Monné +Rouge--"The Plaint of the Weather-beaten Pine"--The Menu at Payole +--Hurrah for the Milk!--Departures--Divine Music--Asté--Gabrielle +d'Estrelle--The Ivied Ruins--The Church--Pitton de Tournefort-- +Gerde--The Pigeon Traps--The Cattle Market--The Jacobin Tower-- +Theatre--Grand Etablissement des Thermes--Hospice Civil--Eglise des +Carmes--Mount Olivet--Madame Cheval, her Cakes and Tea--Bigorre in +Tears. + + +We had a bright day for our journey to Bigorre, and the country +looked pretty, though very backward for April, but this was owing +to the late frosts, which had been felt everywhere. Bigorre itself +was no exception, and instead of all the charms of spring ready to +welcome us, the leaves were only just taking courage to unfurl. Our +first impressions were consequently anything but favourable, though +our comfortable quarters in the Hôtel Beau Séjour compensated us to +a certain degree. To the French and Spaniards, Bigorre is only a +summer resort, but as it is considered to possess a very mild +climate, many English reside there all the year round. In fact, +before the war of 1870 there was quite an English colony there, but +the chance of a Prussian advance dispersed it, and many were the +hardships endured by some of those who had stayed to the last +moment, in their endeavours to reach the coast. + +Our first two days were more or less wet, and by reports of heavy +snowstorms around us, we were unanimously of opinion that we had +come too early. However, with a little sun the place soon began to +look more cheerful, and a few days' fine weather wrought quite a +change. + +The hotel looks down on the Place Lafayette and the commencement of +the avenue known as the "Coustous." This name puzzled us! We tried +to find its derivation in French, without success, and Greek and +German were no better. Latin seemed to solve the difficulty with +the word "Custos," since it is said that the ancient guardians of +the town formerly marched up and down beneath these fine old trees; +so we decided to hunt no further but to translate "Coustous" into +the "Guards' Walk." Having settled that knotty point, we took a +stroll in the avenue, and later, paid a visit to the parish church +of St. Vincent which is close by. It is particularly chaste inside, +some portions dating from the 14th century, but the 15th and 16th +have each had a share in the construction. Some of the altars are +made of fine Pyrenean marble, and the Empress Eugenie is said to +have given the wooden image of the Virgin on the pedestal. + +As the various marbles obtained in the vicinity are exceedingly +interesting, and in many cases very beautiful, a very pleasant +half-hour can be spent at one of the many marble works which the +town possesses. Fired with this idea ourselves, one gloomy day +after lunch we sallied from the hotel, down the road to the left of +the church, through the public gardens, and--attracted by the +marble pillar--down the lane to the right of it, which at length +brought us to the works of Monsieur Géruzet. The huge blocks of the +rough stone were first inspected, then we saw the various processes +of cutting, ornamenting and polishing, and finally were ushered +into the showroom, where all kinds of articles from a sleeve-stud +to a sideboard were on sale. The cigar-trays and letterweights were +most reasonable, but it is not necessary to buy at all--and +gratuities are not supposed to be permitted. + +There were some fine turn-outs in the donkey line which deserve +notice, the peculiarity of these animals here being, to go where +they are wanted, and even to trot about it. Looking out of the +window one morning, we were immediately attracted by the tiniest of +donkeys galloping across the "place" with two big men behind it; +and later on in the day, a neat specimen of the same tribe passed +down the "Coustous," dragging a small dogcart, almost completely +filled by the form of a French female, two or three times as large +as her donkey. + +But like other things, the "genus asininus" is very variable, +almost as much so as the barometer, and those "on hire" for riding +purposes were quite as obstinate as their relations in other +countries; at least so the ladies declared who tried them, and they +ought to know. Their bitter experience was gained in a trip up the +Monné, the highest mountain in the immediate vicinity, being 2308 +feet above Bigorre, or 4128 above the sea. Our party was seven in +all, supplemented by a broken-winded and coughing horse (called +Towser; French, _Tousseux_), two very obstinate donkeys, and a +particularly polite donkey boy. Add to these, three luncheon- +baskets and various sticks, umbrellas, and parasols, and the +cavalcade is complete. We left the hotel and passed up the Coustous +in rather mixed order, which improved as we turned into the Rue +d'Alsace, and leaving the Great Bathing Establishment [Footnote: +Grand Etablissement de Thermes.] and French Protestant Church on +the right, and the Baths of Santé and Grand Pré on the left, +entered the "Salut" avenue, which in due time brought us to the +baths of the same name. The ascent, which by the road is most +circuitous and easy, commences from thence. But though easy, the +donkeys did not attempt to conceal their dislike for the work at a +very early stage, and when the blasting in the quarries was hushed, +"the voice of the charmer" (i.e. donkey boy) might have been heard, +painfully resembling the sounds made by the traveller with his head +over the vessel's side, urging them on, "Ai-ue--Ai-ue." As we +rounded the last of the minor peaks, "the keen demands of appetite" +were not to be resisted; so on a nice green plateau, with the +object of our desires in full view, we discussed the luncheon. +Shawls were spread, plates handed round, bottles gurglingly +uncorked, and chicken and "pâté de foie gras" distributed until +everyone was steadily at work. The mountain air seemed to affect +the "vin ordinaire"; everyone averred it was as good as "Margaux," +while the chicken was voted delicious, and the pâté superb. + +This important business over, a start was again made, and though +the donkeys were still obstinate, we managed to make progress. +Daffodils were growing in profusion as we neared the summit, making +the hill crest seem crowned with gold. At last, after one or two +nasty narrow bits of path, barely affording sufficient footing for +the animals, we gained the top, anxious to enjoy the view. +Unhappily, the tips of the highest peaks were hidden in the clouds, +but the general view was excellent, so we endeavoured to be +content. With our backs to Bigorre, we had the Pic du Midi (9440 +ft.) and the Montaigu (7681 ft.) right before us, with the small +Val de Serris and the finer Val de Lesponne beneath. More to the +left, the continuation of the Campan Valley leading to Luchon, in +which, as far as Ste. Marie, the route is visible. On the extreme +left lay the four villages of Gerde, Asté, Baudéan and Campan, with +the Pêne de l'Heris (5226 ft.) and the Ordincède rearing above +them. Looking in the direction of Bigorre, we could see on our +right the trees fringing the hills above Gerde, and known as the +Palomières; and slightly to the left Lourdes and its lake, with the +entrance to the Argelès valley further round in the same direction +and close to the wooded hill known as the Castel Mouly (3742 ft.). +The Tapêre (a small stream) flows from this last-named hill into a +narrow glen, on the left side of which Madame Cottin wrote the +"Exiles of Siberia." The hill above, known as "Mont Bédat," and +surmounted with a statue of the Virgin, is a favourite walk from +the town, the ascent for a moderate walker taking about forty-five +minutes. + +After twenty minutes to enjoy this panorama we began the descent on +the Castel-Mouly side, and were very soon forced to make short and +sometimes slippery cuts, to avoid the banks of snow lying in the +path. We easily managed to strike the proper path again, however, +and soon found ourselves at our "luncheon plateau." We now bore +along to the left, finding several large gentians, and gradually, +by dint of short cuts, we reached the Croix de Manse--a plateau +where four roads meet. Taking the one leading from the Bédat, we +were soon deposited at the hotel in safety. + +The ladies were inexpressibly glad to give up their donkeys, and +Miss Leonards considered her experiences so bitter as to wish them +to be handed down to posterity under the title of + +"THE LADY'S FAREWELL TO HER ASININE STEED." + + My donkey steed! my donkey steed! that standest slyly by, + With thy ill-combed mane and patchy neck--thy brown and + cunning eye, + I will not mount the Monné's height, or tread the gentle + mead + Upon thy back again: oh slow and wretched donkey steed! + + The sun may rise, the sun may set, but ne'er again on thee, + Will I repeat the sorry ride from which at length I'm free; + I'd sooner walk ten thousand times, though walking would + be vain, + Than ever mount, my donkey steed, upon thy back again. + + Perchance in _nightmare's_ fitful dreams thou'lt amble into + sight, + Perchance once more thy cunning eye will turn on me its + light. + Again I'll raise my parasol--_in vain_--to make thee speed, + A parasol is nought to thee, my wretched donkey steed. + + 'Twas only when at my request some kindly hand would + chide, + Or sharply thrust a pointed stick against thy shaggy side, + That the slow blood that in thee runs would quicken once + again, + For though my parasol I broke, my efforts _still_ were vain. + + Did I ill use thee? Surely not! such things could never be! + Although thou wentest slowest when I fain would haste to + tea. + Creeping at snail's pace only--while I couldn't make thee + learn + That donkeys' legs were never made to stop at ev'ry turn. + + At ev'ry turn!--such weary work--I knew not what to do: + Oh nevermore!--no, nevermore!--would I that ride renew. + How very wide thy jaws were kept--how far thrown back + thine ears, + As though to make me think thee ill and fill my soul with + fears. + Safe and unmounted will I roam with stately step alone, + No more to feel, on thee, such pains and aches in ev'ry bone: + And if I rest beside a well, perchance I'll pause and think, + How even if I'd brought thee there, I couldn't make thee + drink. + + I couldn't even make thee move! Away, the ride is o'er! + Away! for I shall rue the day on which I see thee more! + They said thou wert so meek and good, and I'm not over + strong, + I took their _kind_ advice, but oh! their _kind_ advice was + _wrong._ + + Who said I'd gladly give thee up? Who said that thou + were old? + 'Tis true! 'tis true! my donkey steed! and I alas was _sold._ + With joy I see thy form depart--that form which ne'er again + Shall bear me up the mountain-side and fill my soul with + pain. + +After such a potent warning posterity will doubtless avoid "donkey +steeds" altogether. + +Saturday is the great market-day of the week, and not only then is +the "Place de Strasbourg," at the end of the "Rue du Centre," well +crowded, but even--as happens on no other day--the Place Lafayette, +in front of the hotel, and the top of the Coustous as well. The +first-named is the fruit, flower, and vegetable market; the second, +the grain and potato; and the third, the iron and old shoe market. +The amount and variety of old iron and cast-off shoes exposed for +sale is astonishing. And if the vendors were given to crying their +wares they might indulge in something like the following--of course +translated:-- + + "Now who's for an 'upper,' a 'heel,' or a 'sole'? + This way for some fine rusty chain! + The sum of ten halfpence will purchase the whole, + And surely you cannot complain! + + "Just glance at this slipper, whose fellow is lost; + Here's a boot that was only worn thrice; + A hammer, your honour, at half what it cost; + I'm sure that's a reasonable price." + +The curious characters loafing, begging, buying and selling, quite +defy description, though the resemblance of many to the ape tribe +was conspicuous. One ancient individual, presiding over an +"umbrella hospital," presented an interesting spectacle surrounded +by _adult_ shoe-blacks whose trade did not appear to be too +lucrative. + +Sunday is usually a very quiet day out of the season, but on our +first Sunday morning the Place de Strasbourg was the scene of a +real cat-fight. The combatants quite tabooed spitting and +scratching, and went to work with their teeth. After a few squeaks +and a great deal of rolling in the dust, a magnanimous dog appeared +on the scene, and after separating them, pursued the victor down +the street. The rest of the day, as usual, passed peacefully, and +the pleasant services in the pretty little English Church were much +enjoyed. It is situated near Dussert and Labal's marble works, just +off the Rue des Pyrenees, leading to Campan, about a hundred yards +beyond the Coustous, and is reached by crossing a small wooden +bridge. + +Monday broke very fine, and as the market people had notified that +the Col d'Aspin was now open, we made up a party of ten, just +filling two landaus, for this fifteen-mile drive. We did not start +till eleven, and by that time the clouds had commenced to show +themselves, but hoping for better things, we went ahead. Following +the Campan road, we soon left Gerde and the Palomières above it, in +the distance, and in a few moments the village of Asté as well. A +little further on we met a barouche, lolling back in which sat a +priest. His hands were clasped o'er his breast, his spectacled eyes +were fixed upwards, and judging by the expression of his mouth and +the movement of his lips, he was endeavouring to put some pleasant, +self-contented thoughts into words. We took the liberty of guessing +what he was saying, and set it down as + +"THE ABBÉ'S SONG." + + Oh! I am an Abbé, an Abbé am I, + And I'm fond of my dinner and wine. + Some say I'm a sinner, but that I deny, + And I never am heard to repine. + 'Tis said what a pity I can't have a wife, + But I'm saved from the _chance_ of all naggings and strife, + While in my barouche I can ride where I will, + Feeling life not half bad, though the world may be ill. + + I always wear glasses, but that's to look sage, + And not 'cause my eyesight is dim, + For when sweet maids I view of a loveable age, + I contrive to look over the rim. + And when I'm alone with the glass at my lips, + I am ready to swear, as I pause 'twixt the sips, + That as long as the world does not hamper my will, + I think I can manage to live in it still. + +A short distance before reaching Baudéan a road strikes to the +right up the Vallon de Serris, and a short distance beyond, +another, in the same direction, strikes up the Vallée de Lesponne, +_en route_ for the Lac Bleu (6457 ft.) and the Montaigu (7681 ft.). +When Baudéan and its quaint old church were left in our rear, and +we were nearing Campan, we witnessed a fierce struggle between a +young bull-calf and a native. The calf objected very strongly to +the landaus, and wished to betake itself to the adjacent country to +avoid them. To this the native very naturally objected in turn, and +a struggle was the result, in which the calf was worsted and +reduced to order. + +Campan is a curious old town, with a quaint marketplace, whose roof +rests on well-worn stone pillars. Turning a corner, we came on a +somewhat mixed collection of men, women, oxen, and logs of wood. +The French flag was fixed against a tree, and painted on a board +underneath it were the familiar words, "débit de tabac," with an +arrow or two pointing round the corner, but no tobacco shop was in +sight. + +The peasants thronged the windows as we drove down the street, but +the greater number were weird and decrepit females, with faces like +the bark of an ancient oak-tree. + +The old church, which stands near the market-place is well worth a +visit. Passing under an archway on the right side of the road, we +entered a court-yard, in which stands a marble statue erected in +honour of the late curé, and on the right of this is the entrance +into the church. + +After leaving Campan the road ascends slightly through several +small hamlets, each possessing a proportionately small chapel at +the wayside, till Ste. Marie (2965 ft.) is reached. Here the road +bifurcates, the branch to the right leading to Gripp, Tramesaïgues, +the Col du Tourmalet, and Barèges; the branch to the left, along +which we continued, to the Col d'Aspin, Arreau, Bordères, Col de +Peyresourde (5070 ft.), and Luchon (2065 ft.). From Ste. Marie the +grandeur of the scenery increases. Besides the Montaigu and the Pic +du Midi on the right, on the left are the Pêne de l'Heris (5226 +ft.) and the Crête d'Ordincède (5358 ft. about), with their wooded +crests uplifted above the range of lower hills, dotted with the +huts of the shepherds. Still ascending slightly, we passed Payole +(3615 ft.), where a head thrust out of the window of the Hôtel de +la Poste showed us it was at any rate occupied, and as we drove +past at a good pace, visions of a pleasant tea rose before us. + +[Illustration: THE PINE FOREST NEAR THE COL D'ASPIN.] + +We were soon mounting the zigzags through the splendid pine woods, +and enjoyed the delicious glimpses down the deep moss-grown glades, +with the scent of the rising sap in our nostrils. The glimpses on +the mountains up and down the road were very felicitous also. On +emerging from the forest the road was rather narrow for the +carriage for several yards, the snow being two to three feet deep +on either side, but as soon as this was passed, another three- +quarter mile of open driving brought us to the Col d'Aspin (4920 +ft.). The view from this spot is very fine, but to really enjoy the +scenery to the fullest extent, we mounted the crest on the left, +called the Monné Rouge (5759 ft.), and were well rewarded. +Although, as too often happens, the highest peaks were in the mist, +we could see the whole extent of the valleys, and the tops of the +lower mountains. The range of sight is magnificent; the Maladetta +(10,866 ft.) only just visible to the east, the huge Posets (11,047 +ft.) standing out frowningly to the south-south-east, as well as +the Pez (10,403 ft.) and the Clarabide (10,254 ft. about), and many +others. While not only the valley of Séoube, just passed through, +and the valley of Aure, in which Arreau lies, are visible, but to +the northwest even the plain of the Garonne as well. As the clouds +were gradually obscuring the scene, we made our way at a smart pace +through the pines back towards the inn at Payole. One weather- +beaten old fir, hung with lichen, devoid of all its former garb of +green, seemed to appeal to us for pity; we noticed it both when +ascending and descending, and its misery at dying when all the +trees around were growing anew, we have set down as + +"THE PLAINT OF THE WEATHER-BEATEN PINE." + + Behold I stand by the Aspin road, an old and worn-out Pine, + The years I cannot recollect that make this life of mine: + The snows have fallen o'er my crest, the winds have whistled + high, + For tens of years the winter's frost I managed to defy; + But now the fiat has gone forth, the flame of life is dead, + And nevermore I'll feel the storms that beat about my head. + + I've watch'd the carriage travellers pass so gaily on their + way, + I've heard the capercailzie's note at early dawning grey; + But now, alas! my doom is sealed, I have not long to wait, + For when the axe has laid me low the fire will be my fate. + Farewell to sun, farewell to storm, to birds and travellers all, + --Oh sad to think that one so great should have so great a + fall! + +As some of the party had gone on earlier, we found the table spread +when we reached the Inn de la Poste; and after a warm at the +kitchen fire proceeded to discuss the repast, of which the +following is the _menu_:-- + +MENU. + + * * * * * + +SOUP. + +Tea._ + +FISH. + +Cold Minnows. + +ROASTS. + +Remains of Cold Chicken. Remains of Paté de Foie Gras. + +COLD. + +Household _Bread_--very sour. + +MADE DISH. + +_Butter._ + +SWEETS. + +Sponge Biscuits. + +DESSERT. + +Apples and Oranges. + +WINES AND LIQUEURS. + +Vin Ordinaire, Water with very little Whisky, Kirschwasser. + +We were unable to procure any addition to our meal from the +innkeeper, except sour bread and sugar. Our tea had to be drank +without milk, as the cow had gone for a stroll up the mountain and +was out of reach of the post-office. Having suggested to our host +that a telegram might be of use, he disappeared grinning, and in +about ten minutes the servant entered with a bottle containing the +precious liquid. The shout of joy that rose to the rafters rather +startled the quiet female, but it was spontaneous, not to be +suppressed, and told of a happy finish to our not over sumptuous +tea. + +The drive from thence home was decidedly chilly, but nothing +exciting happened, though occasional glimpses of the snow peaks +were enjoyed, and many fine specimens of the genus bovus, dragging +carts laden with trees (or all that remained of them), were passed +by the way. + +The entire excursion occupied six hours and a half. + +A few days afterwards our sociable circle at the hotel was much +reduced, and among others the Clipper family departed. We missed +Mr. Clipper greatly, for though bearing strong evidence to Darwin's +theory about the face, he was a chatty companion and capital +"raconteur," while his facility for remembering names, even of +places visited in his youngest days, was really remarkable. + +Nor could we easily spare the four sylph-like Misses Clipper, for +with them vanished all hopes of delicious music in the evening. Ah, +that was music! The way they played together the "Taking of Tel-el- +Kebir" took us by storm. The silent march through the dead of +night, the charge, the cheers, the uncertain rifle fire, and then +the thunder of the cannon was so effective, that the landlord rose +in haste from his dinner, and anxiously inquired if the pier-glass +had fallen through the piano; reassured, he went back to his meal, +but whether the "taking of the redoubt," or the "pursuit of the +fugitives," or even the capital imitation of the bagpipes--which +followed in due course--interfered with his digestion (it might +have been a regard for his piano), we never learnt, but his face +showed unmistakable signs of annoyance for the rest of the evening. + +The next morning--which was Saturday--Miss Leonards, Mrs. +Willesden, and myself took a walk to the villages of Asté and +Gerde. They lie on the opposite side of the river Adour, and are +within an easy walk. The market people were coming in a continuous +stream along the Campan road, some in long carts crowded sardine- +like, some in traps, some on donkeys, but the majority on foot. We +stopped two of the most crowded carts and asked them to make room +for us. The inmates of the former took it as a joke and drove off +chuckling; but those in the second took the matter-of-fact view and +began squeezing about, till, having a space of about four inches by +three, one man said he thought they could manage; however, not +wishing to "sit familiar," we thanked him, but declined to trouble +him any further. + +The first bridge over the river, built of stone, leads to Gerde and +Asté, but we preferred to take the longer route, which continues +along the Campan road, till, after passing several smaller wooden +bridges, it turns to the left between two houses over an iron +bridge, and strikes straight into Asté. Before entering the town we +glanced over in the direction of Campan, and caught a fine glimpse +of the Houn Blanquo (6411 ft.), and the Pic du Midi, with a bit of +the Montaigu. Asté is interesting, formerly a fief of the Grammont +family; it has been associated with not a few celebrated +characters, and though that does not enhance the value of the +surrounding property (since the Grammont estate is now in the +market), yet of course it renders the village more worthy of a +visit. + +The picturesque and ivy-covered ruin is all that remains of the +feudal castle where Gabrielle d'Estrelle [Footnote: So the oldest +inhabitant said!] lived and loved, and whither the renowned Henry +IV. (the object of that love) came over from his castle at Pau on +frequent visits. + +The church, with its Campan marble porch, is celebrated for the +image of the Virgin which it contains, and which is greatly +reverenced in the neighbourhood. + +Asté was honoured with a long visit from Pitton de Tournefort, a +celebrated French naturalist, and the fact is commemorated by an +engraved tablet affixed to the house in which he passed his nights. + +The tablet is on the left-hand side of the main street (going +towards Gerde), and the inscription--which is in verse--runs as +follows:-- + +"Pitton de Tournefort dans cet humble réduit, +De ses fatigues de jour se reposait la nuit. +Lorsqu' explorant nos monts qu'on ignorait encore, +Ce grand homme tressait la couronne de flore." + +MDCCCXXXII. M.B. + +Which might be translated-- + +"Pitton de Tournefort when tired for the day, +In this hole made his bed, on a shakedown of hay. +Our hills, long despised, he was pleased to explore, +And we thank him for lib'rally paying the score!" + +1832. + +Taking the path leading to the right, we managed by dint of a +little wading to reach Gerde, a village possessing little internal +interest besides the neat church, but otherwise known to fame from +the "palomières," or pigeon-traps, worked between the trees which +fringe the hills above it. During the autumn, when the pigeons are +migrating, huge nets are spread between the trees, and on the approach +of a flock, men, perched in a lofty "crow's nest," throw out a large +wooden imitation of a hawk, at the sight of which the pigeons dip in +their flight and rush into the nets, which--worked on the pulley +system--immediately secure them. There are three species taken in the +traps: the wood pigeon, the ringed wood pigeon, and the wild dove. + +Leaving Gerde by the principal thoroughfare, we came back to +Bagnères by the Toulouse road, passing the Cattle Market--held in a +triangular space shaded with trees--on the left; and the Géruzet +Marble Works, and later the Parish Church, on the right. + +[Illustration: PALOMIÈRES DE GERDE.] + +With the exception of the baths or Thermes, we did not find many +places of interest in the town. The old Jacobin tower, surmounted +by a clock, in the Rue de l'Horloge, is all that remains of a +convent built in the 15th century, but is in a good state of +preservation. The theatre is part of what was formerly the "Chapel +of St. John," used by the Templars. The porch over the doorway was +erected in the 13th century, and is of the Transition style, +utterly incongruous to the use now made of it; but this kind of +sacrilege is unhappily now becoming of common occurrence! Leaving +the theatre, in a short space we were in the "Place des Thermes," +where the New Casino is being built among the shrubs on the right. +The "Grand Etablissement," which occupies the centre of the +"Place," contains seven different springs, and there is another in +the circular building outside, the latter being only used for +drinking purposes. On the first floor of the building are the +library (to the left), the geological room (in the centre), and the +picture gallery (to the right). The corridors leading to the first +and last are panelled with good specimens of the Pyrenean marbles, +and in the same room with the pictures is a supposed model of a +section of the Pyrenees--anybody gaining any information from it +deserves a prize. + +To the left of this establishment stands the "Hospice Civil," a +fine building in grey stone. + +The Carmelite Church, on the left of the road leading to Mount +Olivet, where several pleasant villas are situated, is now closed, +the "order" having been dispersed two years ago; so nothing is to +be seen there of interest except the sculpture representing the +"miracle of the loaves" over the door. + +One institution must not be forgotten, viz, the afternoon tea or +coffee at Madame Cheval's. This good lady presides over a +confectioner's shop opposite the end of the Hôtel (Beau Séjour), in +the Rue du Centre. Her cakes and coffee are good, and, thanks to +our enlightened instructions, anyone taking some tea to her can +have it properly made, and be provided with the necessary adjuncts +for enjoying it; cream even being attainable if ordered the +previous day. We spent many a pleasant half-hour there, and can +well recommend others to follow our example. + +Towards the end of the month Mr. H---- and his daughters moved on +to Luchon, as their time was limited; and the last week saw the +departure of Mrs. Willesden and Miss Leonards for England, whereat +Bigorre was as tearful and miserable as a steady downpour could +make it. I had serious thoughts of moving on to Luchon for two or +three days myself, and a driver who had brought two men thence over +the Col d'Aspin, offered to take me back for twenty francs, but +learning next day that there were five feet of snow on the Col, and +that Luchon was wretchedly cold, I decided to wait till later on, a +decision in no way regretted. + +Although during the latter part of our stay the weather was +agreeable, and the influence of spring manifest, I was not sorry +when the day for moving forward arrived, and though Madame Cheval, +when I broke the news to her over my solitary cup of coffee, looked +as concerned as she could, and murmured something to the effect +that "all her customers were going away," yet with the assurance +that some day soon a party of us would pay her a visit, she managed +to smile again! + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +LOURDES. + +The Journey to Tarbes--The Buffet and the Nigger--Lourdes Station +in the Wet--Importunate "Cochers"--Hôtel des Pyrénées--"Red tape" +and Porters--Lourdes in Sunshine--Sightseeing--The "Rue de la +Grotte"--"The Cry of the Lourdes Shopkeepers"--Candle-sellers--The +Grotto--Abject Reverence--The Church--St. Bernard--Interior of +Church--The Panorama--Admirable Effect--Rue du Fort--The Castle-- +The View from the Tower--Pie de Mars, or Ringed Ousels. + + +The railway run from Bigorre to Lourdes is by no means a long one, +the actual distance being only twenty-six and a quarter miles, and +actual time in the train about one and a half hours, but the break +at Tarbes considerably prolongs it. + +The early morning had been wet, and showers continued till the +afternoon, but the sun condescended to come out as the train wound +slowly out of the station, and the lights and shades up the valley +and hillsides were delightful. Having the anticipatory pleasure of +meeting Mrs. and Miss Blunt and Mr. Sydney again at Lourdes; and a +lovely view of the beauties of spring when I looked out of the +window, the time did not take long to pass. One particularly pretty +bit of meadow, trees, and stream led to the building of an airy +castle, which the sudden appearance of the spires and roofs of +Tarbes--suggesting the return to bustle and the haunts of men--soon +banished, and the arrival in the station and the necessary change +eradicated completely. + +Thirty-five minutes to wait. Too little to see the town, too much +for twiddling one's thumbs. Then what? Glorious inspiration! The +Buffet! Capital; and into the Buffet I accordingly went. Seated at +a table, a nigger, slightly white about the finger tips, but +otherwise quite genuine--no Moore and Burgess menial--appeared to +do my bidding. "What would Monsieur take? Café?"--"Oui." "Café noir +ou café au lait?" I decided on taking the coffee with milk, adding +that anything in the biscuit line would not be amiss, and away he +went grinning. He soon returned with cakes and coffee, and by dint +of taking my time I had barely finished when it was time to start. + +Again I managed to secure a carriage to myself, but this time it +proved a very badly coupled one which jolted considerably. Lourdes +was reached in a wretched drizzle, and the benefit conferred on +passengers by having the station _quite_ free from any covering +whatever, was _apparent_ to all. A sudden activity on the part of +the "cochers" to entrap me to their respective (but by no means +necessarily respectable) hotels, as I emerged from the station-- +which proved useless--and I was jolting onward to the Hôtel des +Pyrénées. When arrived, inspected rooms, ordered fires and dinner, +and whiled away an hour till it was time to repair again to the +station, to meet Mrs. and Miss Blunt and Mr. Sydney, "Red tape"-ism +dominant there, as it is everywhere in France. In fact, "red tape" +is the French official's refuge. Whenever a system is weak or +underhand, they seek protection behind a maze of stupidity and +fuss. I wanted to see the station-master, to obtain permission to +perambulate the platform till the arrival of the train. No porter +would bestir himself to find this great official, but whichever way +I turned one was always ready with his "Où allez-vous, Monsieur?" +to which the only sensible reply would have been "Pas au ----, comme +vous," but silence and an utter indifference were better still, and +armed with these I ran the gauntlet of the pests, and finding the +"Chef de Gare" in his "bureau," at once received the desired +permission. There was not much time for perambulation, as the train +soon steamed in, though without Mr. Sydney, who was detained for a +day or two longer, and once more, but now a triangular party, we +jolted back to the hotel. The rest of the evening was passed with +dinner, and an endeavour to get warm; the rain and wind still +enjoying themselves without. + +[Illustration] + +However, with the morn all these miseries vanished, and the sun +shone from a blue sky flecked with a few films of snow. Lourdes +looked very charming under such auspices, and Miss Blunt availed +herself of the balmy air of the morning to wander round the stables +and garden with a speckled pointer and a Pyrenean puppy, between +which and the mountains her attention was divided, though the last +named had certainly the least of it. + +Then out we sallied to see the sights, which are more of quality +than quantity. Turning to the right from the hotel door, through +the Place de Marcadal, where the fountain was playing in delightful +imitation of the previous night's rain, we gained the commencement +of the Rue de la Grotte (which bears sharply to the left by the +Hôtel de Paris), and followed its muddy ways with more or less +danger owing to absence of footpath, and presence of numerous +carriages. However, having passed the Hôtel d'Angleterre and the +end of Rue du Fort (leading to the ancient castle), footpaths came +into view, but the joy of the discovery was much minimized at the +sight of the shops and shopkeepers, as the latter gave us no peace. +It was one ceaseless bother to buy, mostly in French; but one +damsel, confident of success assailed us in whining English, +running up and down before her wares, and seizing different objects +in quick succession, while continuing to praise their beauty and +cheapness. Every shop or stall we passed--and there were a good +many--had an inmate more or less importunate, but as what they had +to say was very similar, it can be all embodied in the following + +"CRY OF THE LOURDES SHOPKEEPERS." + +This way, if you please, miss; and madame, this way; +Kind sir, pause a moment, and see. +Oh! tell me, I beg, what's your pleasure to-day? +Pray enter--the entrance is free. + +Some candles? I've nice ones at half a franc each, +Or thirty centimes, if you will. +Some tins, each with lids fitted tight as a leech, +For you, with blest water to fill. + +And look at these beads, only forty centimes, +All carved, and most beautif'ly neat. +I've "charms" that will give you the sweetest of dreams, +And _bénitiers_ lovely and sweet. + +A cross of pure ivory. Photographs too. +--No good?--You want nothing to-day?-- +Alas! what on earth must poor shopkeepers do? +Oh, kindly buy something, I pray! + +One candle? You must have _one_ candle to burn +When into the grotto you tread. +Not one? Not a little one? Onward you turn! +Bah! may miseries light on your head!! + +As soon as the shops were passed, and even before, women besieged +us with packets of candles, and it was with great difficulty we +made them understand the word No! Then, leaving the Hôtels de la +Grotte and Latapie on the right, and the "Panorama" on the opposite +side, we wound down towards the river and the grotto. + +To us, it would be hard to conceive anything more pitiable or +repulsive than the scene which met our gaze as we passed at the +base of the church and came in full view of the grotto. An +irregular opening in the dull grey stone going back only a few +feet, with the moisture oozing over it here and there, and the ivy +and weeds adding picturesqueness to what would otherwise be +commonplace; in an elevated niche on the right, a figure of the +Virgin in white robes and blue sash; in front, on the left, a +covered marble cistern, with taps; and innumerable crutches and +candles, were all the unsuperstitious eye could see. But to those +poor wretches gathered round in prayer, influenced by the "light- +headed" dreams of a poor swineherd, the spot was the holiest of +holy ground. The abject reverence of their attitudes, the stand of +flaming and guttering candles, the worship and kissing of the rough +wet stones, the pious drinking of the cistern's water as they came +away--a few pausing to buy some "blest" token of their visit at the +adjacent shop--and the solemn silence that reigned over all, were +the chief features that made the scene one from which we were only +too glad to turn away. Taking the zigzag path among the pleasant +trees and shrubs, on the right, we soon reached the level of the +Gothic church, which we entered from the farther end. Ascending the +steps, the two statues on either side of the porch came in view, +but neither repaid a nearer inspection; St. Bernard, on the left, +looking about as dejected and consumptive as anyone, priest or +layman, well could. The church itself, from a Roman Catholic +standpoint, must be considered very fine, but the adoration of the +Virgin to the almost complete disregard of her subjection to "Our +Saviour" is most apparent. The windows and many of the altars are +beautiful, and so are many of the banners, while the high altar is +a great work of art; but the _unreligious_ tone that this striving +after effect produces, but without which the religion--or so-called +religion--would soon cease to exist, struck us as we entered, and +increased with every step. It was as if to say, "Look at these +lovely things, feast your eyes on them, and let their beauty be the +mainspring to inspire you with faith." There was no appeal to the +true religion of the soul, that springs from the heart in a clear +stream, and which no tinsel banners, no elaborate statues, and no +flaming candles, can quicken or intensify! + +Leaving the church by the high road, with the Convent and "Place," +--with its neat walks and grass plots,--on the left, we proceeded to +the "Panorama," where, our admiration having been tempered by the +payment of a franc each, we spent an enjoyable quarter of an hour. +The painting as a whole--representing Lourdes twenty-five years +ago--is most effective, and the effect is heightened by the +admirable combination with real earth, and grass, and trees. The +grouping of the figures round the grotto, representing the scene at +the eighteenth appearance of the Virgin to Bernadette--who is the +foremost figure kneeling in the grotto--is particularly fine; but +how that huge crowd standing there were content with Bernadette's +assertion that she saw the vision, when none of them saw anything +but the stones, is a practical question that few probably could +answer, and least of all the priests. [Illustration] Returning by +the way we had come, we bore up the Rue du Fort to inspect the old +castle--or all that remained of it--and enjoy the view. After some +two hundred yards of this narrow street, painfully suggestive, in +the vileness of its odours, of Canton's narrower thoroughfares, we +reached the steps leading up on the left, and commenced the ascent. +As it was, we did not find it very difficult work, though if a +rifle had been levelled from every slit in the two-foot walls, it +is probable that before _two_ of the nearly two hundred steps had +been surmounted, we would have been levelled also. Passing between +once impregnable walls (where English soldiers also passed in days +of yore), we crossed the now harmless-looking drawbridge and rang +the bell. A woman opened the door and requested us to enter, a +request which evidently met with the approbation of two diminutive +youngsters, whose faces were dimpled with smiles wherever the fat +would allow. Keeping along the right wall in the direction of the +pig-sties (O! shades of the Black Prince!!!) we were greeted with +the musical tones of the "porkers" and many _sweet_ odours. Having +entered one of the prisons at the base of the tower for a moment, +we next followed the ever-winding steps till fairly giddy, and +reached the top. Thence the view was exceedingly fine. We seemed to +be at the meeting-point of four valleys, and the snow peaks in the +direction of Argelès were free from clouds. The whole of Lourdes +lay like a map beneath; the church with the "Calvary" on the hill +over against it, the river sparkling in the sunlight, the Pic de +Jer with its brown sides, and the winding roads with the green +fields and budding trees, joining to make a pleasant picture. + +Descending again to the hotel, we partook of a capital lunch, of +which the "pie de mars," or ringed ousel--a bird of migratory +habits, little known in our isles (except in a few parts of +Scotland), but considered a great delicacy here--formed a part. +After this, Miss Blunt once again devoted herself to the Pyrenean +puppy, till the carriage came round and we took our departure. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +ARGELÈS. + +Road v. Rail--Scenes, sublime and ridiculous--Hôtel d'Angleterre-- +Questions and "The Argelès Shepherd's Reply"--A forbidden path--The +ride to Ges, Serres, Salluz, and Ourous--Argelès church--Route +Thermale--Ges--The tree in the path--"A regular fix"--Serres--" +It's a stupid foal that doesn't know its own mother "--A frothing +stream--A fine view--Pigs in clover--Salluz--Ourous--Contented +villagers--The high road--The bridge on the Pierrefitte road-- +Advice to sketchers--"Spring's Bitters and Sweets"--The "witch of +the hills"--Large green lizards--"Jeannette's Lamb"--Round the +Argelès valley--Château de Beaucens--Villelongue--Soulom--The old +church--Hôtel de la Poste, Pierrefitte--St. Savin--The verger and +the ancient church--Cagots--"The Organ's Tale"--St. Savin's tomb-- +The Château de Miramont--Jugged izard--Market-day--Sour bread and +the remedy--Arrival of the first parcel. + + +Although the railway line takes very nearly the same route as the +carriage road, the drive is decidedly preferable, and when it can +be undertaken for ten francs--as in our case--there is little to +choose between the modes of conveyance on the score of cheapness, +especially as a landau can carry a very fair quantity of luggage. +We considered ourselves amply repaid for our choice as we wound +underneath the rocky crags and by the side of the river, anon +ascending the curve of a small hill with the fresh fields below, a +little church or ivied ruin standing out on the mountain-side, and +high above all, the snowy summits so majestic and so intensely +white. There was occasionally a ridiculous side to the picture too, +when we put a flock of sheep in rapid motion in a wrong direction +and the luckless shepherd had to start in hot pursuit--using the +politest of language; or, again, when some natives on tiny donkeys +or skittish mules came by, their faces breaking into a respectful +grin as they wished us "bon jour." Skirting the railway line for a +short distance, we drove into Argelès rather unexpectedly, our ride +having seemed all too short. However, there was our hotel--the +Grand Hôtel d'Angleterre (everything is grand now-a-days)--standing +boldly by the road, with the quaint, though poor-looking village +about it, and for another few days that was to be our abode. +[Illustration] This hotel, though possessing less of a reputation +than the Hôtel de France, nevertheless commands a finer view on all +sides, and is a pleasanter abode on that account. The afternoon was +still young when we arrived, so as soon as we had stowed our +luggage we sallied out for a walk along the road to Pierrefitte. A +short way from the hotel, an old shepherd was standing in the +middle of the road leaning on his staff, with his flock of sheep +all round him, and the dog lolling idly on the grass. The tall +poplars by the roadside waking into life, the merry stream +meandering at their feet, and the back ground of mountains tipped +with snow, filled up the scene. We accosted the old man with a +good-day, and asked him several questions about the weather and +himself, all of which he answered in a genial way, and which strung +together made up + +"THE ARGELÈS SHEPHERD'S REPLY." + + Good-day, sir! The weather, sir; will it be wet? + You see, sir, I hardly can say, + We gen'rally know at the earliest dawn + What weather we'll have in the day; + But at night--in these mountains--I couldn't be sure, + And I'd rather not tell you, sir, wrong. + And yet, what does a day here or there make to you? + If it rains, 'twill be fine before long. + Have I always looked after the sheep, sir? Why, No! + I've served in the army, sir, sure. + Let me see--ah!--it's now thirty summers ago + Since those hardships we had to endure. + Ay, I fought with your soldiers 'mid bleak Russia's snow, + Half numb'd in the trenches I worked, + And suffered what few of you gents, sir, would know, + But somehow, we none of us shirked. + Was I wounded, sir? No, sir! thank Goodness for that, + Though I've seen some stiff fighting, 'tis true. + In Africa 'twasn't all sunshine and play, + And in Austria we'd plenty to do. + Do I like being a shepherd, sir, roaming the hills, + Just earning enough to buy bread? + Well, I wouldn't have cared all my days, for the ills + And the life that as soldier I led. + No, sir! no! though 'twas well enough then, Peace, you see, + Is the best when one's hair's turning grey! + Will I drink your good health, sir? Ay, proud I shall be, + And, thanking you kindly--Good-day!!! + +Strolling on, we soon reached the bridge over the River Gave +d'Azun, and leaving the old structure "whose glory has departed" on +the right, we crossed over and continued along the road for a short +distance, till we noticed a lane leading off to the left, which we +followed. This in time bore further round in the same direction and +suddenly ended at the entrance to a field. However, keeping +straight on, we came in view of the river's bank and to this we +kept, recrossing by the railway bridge below, and then back by the +fields home, completing a round none the less pleasant because a +captious critic might have called it trespassing. + +As lovely a ride or walk as can well be imagined, even by an +imagination as fertile as this lovely valley, passes by way of the +four villages of Ges, Serres, Salluz, and Ourous. Although the +weather was rather unsettled, we started one morning about 9.15, +and following the road towards Lourdes for about two hundred yards, +took the sharp turn to the left (with the telegraph wires) up into +the town. Gaining the church, we bore along to the right into the +open "Place," at the left corner of which the Route Thermale to +Eaux Bonnes and Eaux Chaudes begins. For about half a mile this was +our road also, but after that distance, the Ges route branched off +to the right, and the views of Argelès, and the rest of the valley +from it, as we wound upwards, were particularly lovely. The horses +were very fresh, having only lately been brought from the +mountains, after a winter of idleness, and they walked at a fast +pace fretting at any stoppage whatever, which they did not +endeavour to disguise, any more than their inclination to shy at +anything they possibly could. As far as Ges the way is easy to +follow, but it is wise to inquire frequently afterwards, as so many +equally important (this importance is decidedly on the negative +side) looking paths branch off in every direction. The good people +we saw in Ges, a village of thatched cottages looking the worse for +rain, said we should find the "road vile," but this did not daunt +us, and with a "bon jour" we passed on. We had not gone very far, +however, when to our dismay we saw a huge tree right across the +road. Our position was an awkward one. The road was rather narrow +and without any protection; there was only the steep hillside +above, and the steep hillside below. To go up was quite +impracticable, to go down was destruction! My horse approached the +impediment very quietly, and allowed me to break off several of the +worst branches, and then scramble by. Miss Blunt's horse came close +up to it as though intending to pass quietly, but, instead, wheeled +round on the extreme edge of the path in anything but a pleasant +fashion, either for the rider or the observer. [Illustration] +Dismounting and tying my steed to one of the branches on the near +side of the road, I held back as many of the others as possible, +and the horse came up quietly again, but repeated the disagreeable +business, still more dangerously. Having broken off several more, +and again pulled back the others, the skittish animal consented to +pass. But in passing he bent down a very pliant bough, which, when +released, flew back and hit my peaceful steed sharply on the legs. +For a few seconds his efforts to get free were--to put it mildly-- +unpleasantly severe, especially as he became with each effort more +entangled in the tree. When the reins were at length unknotted, he +quieted a little, and after being led a few yards, submitted to be +mounted very peaceably, and we descended, with the fresh leaves +above and below us, into Serres. Here we had occasion to remark +that "It's a stupid foal that doesn't know its own mother," as one +pretty little thing would persist in following our steeds, until a +sturdy "paysanne" turned it back. The correct route all this time +was the upper one (or that to the left), and we now came to a very +lovely bit, where two swift frothing streams dashed down beneath +the trees, near a small saw-mill. A fine view up the valley behind +us, to the snow peaks towering over the ruddy hill-tops, was +enjoyed, as we continued along the ascending and uneven path. In +the fields above, some shepherds were driving a flock of sheep, and +a woman, reposing under a huge blue gingham, was watching the +vigorous onslaught of several pigs in a small clover patch. A few +villagers, in their Sunday best, stood by the wayside discussing +some topic with languid interest, which they dropped, to wish us +"bon jour" and tell us the road. More lovely effects of light and +shade over the hills towards Pierrefitte, with filmy clouds +shrouding the tallest summits, and here and there a glimpse of the +blue sky, and we passed into the straggling hamlet of Salluz, after +which the path branched up--still to the left--through the trees. +Winding down again, we came to Ourous, to which apparently the +inhabitants from all the other villages had come, dressed in their +Sunday best, to mass. "Young men and maidens, old men and +children," women tottering with extreme age, were all assembled +round about the old church, looking contented and happy, smiling, +and wishing us a "bon jour" as we rode in a circular direction +through the village, till we reached a spot where the road forks, +the one to the right leading to Argelès, the one to the left to +Lourdes. The former looked so stony that we chose the other, and +had not gone very far before a smooth and broader path to the right +(from which a grand view of the whole valley opened before us) +brought us down to a few houses, between which we passed, and +reached the high-road. A good trot along this, by the side of the +railway line, and we were back at the hotel, convinced that the +badness of the road and all drawbacks were amply--and more than +amply--outweighed by the succession of beautiful scenery. + +Two walks, one ending in rather a scramble, branch off immediately +below the bridge, on the Pierrefitte road. The one we took, at a +respectable hour of the morning, which ascends the left side of the +mound, is the prettier by far, as it discloses lovely glimpses at +every turn. We followed it till it branched off in two directions +(the one to the left being the real continuation), but at this +point we turned off into a field, deep in grass and studded with +flowers, where some comfortable-looking boulders invited us to +rest. Miss Blunt,--whose soul thrills with delight at the vastness +and beauty of nature,--never allowed opportunities of committing +the choicest bits to canvas or paper, to escape her; and, some +picturesque display having caught her eye, directly she had located +herself on an accommodating boulder, she was at work. Herrick's +good advice, "Gather ye rosebuds while ye may--Old Time is still a- +flying," might be adapted, she thinks, to sketchers in mountainous +regions, and she speaks from bitter experience when she suggests: + +"Paint in your snow-peaks while you may, +If clouds are quickly flying, +For those heights now in bright display +May soon in mist be lying." + +The beauty of the scene was without alloy, the colouring splendid, +and up the road above us, beyond which rose the hill, a shepherd +was leading his flock of sheep, now and then clapping his hands or +shouting to a straggler, but as a rule walking quietly on, the +whole flock following in a continuous line. Not wishing to be idle, +I took out my pencil to indulge in a poetic eulogy. How far I +succeeded may be judged from the following lines, which might be +called + +"SPRING'S BITTERS AND SWEETS." + +Here on a moss-grown boulder sitting, +Watching the graceful swallows flitting, +Hearing the cuckoo's note. +Sheep on the hills around me feeding, +While in their piteous accents pleading, +The lambkins' bleatings float. +--Oh, dear! a fly gone down my throat. + +Spring's gentle influence all things feeling, +New life o'er hill and valley stealing: +Buttercups, daisies fair, +Studding the meadow, sweetly smiling, +Bees with their hum the hours beguiling, +Breezes so soft and rare. +--Oh, what a fearful wasp was there! + +Grand is the view from this grey boulder, +Each high snow-peak, each rocky shoulder: +Charming, yet wild, the sight. +Cherry-trees, with white blossom laden, +And 'neath their shade a peasant maiden, +Comely her costume bright. +--Oh, how these impish ants do bite! + +Onward the winding river's flowing, +Its spray-splashed stones in sunshine glowing, +The peaceful oxen by. +From the tall trees the magpies' warning, +As on their nests intent, our presence scorning, +From branch to branch they fly. +--Oh! there's an insect in my eye. +I've done: such pests one really can't defy. + +Miss Blunt couldn't defy them either, so, as it was getting near +luncheon-time besides, we retraced our steps, but had not gone very +far before we suffered a severe disappointment. Some fifty yards +below us in the path stood a seeming counterpart of "Madge +Wildfire"; a wild, weird, wizened looking creature, whom we +immediately recognised as a "witch of the hills." Her hair unkempt, +her bodice hanging in tatters from her shoulders, her patched and +threadbare petticoat barely fastened round what should have been +her waist (and a _waste_ it was) by a hook and eye held by a few +threads--even such as this, up the path she came. But what a +miserable failure she was! When she came close to us, instead of +pouring out a torrent of mad words, telling of her woes and wrongs, +or at any rate breaking into a disgusting whine such as + + "Oh, gentles, I am mad and old, + My dress is worn and thin; + Oh, give me one small piece of gold! + To clothe my wretched skin;" + +she didn't even offer to tell our fortunes, but passed timidly by. +It was enough to have disappointed a saint! and we were only +restored to a pleasant frame of mind by finding Mr. Sydney at the +hotel on our return. + +[Illustration] + +In the afternoon we took the other path--previously mentioned as +branching off below the bridge over the Gave d'Azun,--which leading +sharply to the right, passes beside the river for a short distance, +and then leads among the fields, finally--like others in Argelès-- +losing itself there. Just as the poplars which run with it ceased, +we had a lovely view up a dip between two fertile hills, to the +snow-peaks near Barèges; a narrow path skirts the side of the hill, +on the right, in the direction of the morning's sketching ground, +but this we did not take, making, instead, for the hill standing +immediately above the river. Up this a certain distance we +clambered--scaring a few large green lizards that were sunning +themselves on the stones,--by a sheep track we managed to discover, +till we could look down on a mass of tangled brushwood by the +riverside. Scrambling down to this through the wild vines and +briars, we succeeded, after many fruitless attempts, in gaining the +water's edge. There was no place to cross and the current was far +too swift to attempt jumping, so we had to turn back. While +deliberating on the right path, a little girl, looking very +wretched, with blurred face and torn clothes, came round a corner, +and asked us if we had seen a lamb anywhere. We were sorry we +hadn't, very sorry indeed; all we could do was to endeavour to +recollect a rhyme and adapt it to her case, that we learnt in the +nursery when we were something under fifteen, and, although it +didn't seem to assuage her grief much--probably because she didn't +understand a word of English--we think it ought to be quoted in +case it should be useful to others. + +JEANNETTE'S LAMB. + +Jeannette had a naughty lamb, +That looked like dirty snow; +And wherever Jeannette went +That lamb would never go. + +It wandered from her care one day, +(Oh, stupid little fool!) +It made her cry her heart away +While searching brake and pool. + +And Jeannette tore her dress to rags, +And scratched her hands and face; +But of her dirty little lamb +She couldn't find a trace. + +The lamb fell in the river deep, +But Jeannette never knew. +Though Satan finds some mischief still, +For little lambs to do. + +However, she listened very submissively till we had finished, and +then wandered off again still searching for her lamb, while we +retraced our steps. + +There is a drive round the Argelès valley, which on a fine day is +simply splendid, and ought certainly not to be missed. At ten a.m. +a landau with two good horses was at the door, and away we went +towards Argelès station, across the line, over a new piece of road, +and then across a rather shaky, but wholly quaint, wooden bridge +(under which flows the Gave de Pau) to the base of the hills. As we +continued along this road in the direction of Pierrefitte, the +views of the mountains on the Argelès side were especially fine. +The Pic d'Arrens (7435 ft.) and the Col de Tortes (5903 ft.), with +the wild Pic de Gabizos (8808 ft.) with its toothed summits, behind +it--in the direction of Eaux Bonnes: over Pierrefitte the Pic de +Soulom (5798 ft.), the Pic de Viscos (7025 ft.), and far up the +Cauterets valley the Cabaliros (7655 ft.), the Pic de Labassa (9781 +ft.), and the Pyramide de Peyrelance (8800 ft. about). An +especially interesting part arrives, as the road approaches the +wonderful old ruin of the Château de Beaucens (with "oubliettes" +towers, a "donjon" of the 14th century, and west walls of the 16th +ditto), which stands on the left, not far from the village of the +same name. Crossing the river again, we just managed to pass over +some newly-laid road, to the village of Villelongue--above which, +on the left, towers the imposing Pic de Villelongue--and soon after +found ourselves beside the river again at the foot of the Pic de +Soulom, where it is very lovely, and crossing another bridge, +reached Soulom itself. It seemed to us an old and somewhat dirty +town--not to say filthy--but the church is worthy of a visit. It +was formerly fortified, and the construction of the belfry--if such +it can be called--is curious. The inscription over the door, "This +is the house of God and the gate of heaven," written in Latin, +seems somewhat grotesque for such a building, although the dome is +painted to represent the sky in all the "intensity" of a starlight +night. A few yards along the road and we stood on the bridge over +the "Gave de Cauterets," at the other side of which is Pierrefitte +--and from which point the scenery is especially grand. Passing the +Hôtel de la Poste (recommended) on the left, and the way to the +station on the right, we bore up the hill in the former direction, +towards St. Savin. + +This old place--in fact the oldest village in the valley--is an +easy walk from Argelès, and should certainly not be excluded from a +visit. Having passed the dismantled Château de Despourrins and the +statue at the roadside erected in the poet's (Despourrins') honour, +we had a grand glimpse of the valley below; and, leaving behind the +Chapelle de Piétad (16th century), which stands on a point above +the road, we entered the village. The street leading to the ancient +Roman Church is ancient too, reminding one, in the curious +construction of the houses, of Chester, the style of supporting the +upper part on wooden beams, reaching over the road, and leaving a +passage beneath, being very similar. The church has been restored +and is in capital preservation. As there were so many objects of +interest, chiefly connected with the great St. Savin himself, we +sent for the verger, sexton, bellringer, parish beadle, or whatever +the "goîtreux" individual called himself, and paid great attention +to all he had to say. Although a good deal was quite unintelligible, +the following are some of the most interesting facts. Entering +at the small side door, immediately within stands a curious +and very old bénitier (font), with two curious individuals +carved in the stone supporting the basin. These are supposed to +represent two "Cagots," a despised race for whom the font itself +was constructed. Very few people know anything about their origin, +but they were greatly detested by the inhabitants of the country, +and not even allowed to worship in the same church, or use the same +"holy water" as the rest. They still exist about Gavarnie and a few +other spots, and we hope to learn more of them. The old battered +organ next presents itself to the view, with the long flight of +steps leading up to it, but as it wished to tell its own story, +without further description behold + +"THE ORGAN'S TALE." + + Good people who gaze at my ruinous state, + Don't lift up your noses and sneer: + I've a pitiful story I wish to relate, + And, I pray you, believe me sincere. + + I was young, I was "sweet," in the years that are gone, + The breath through my proud bosom rolled, + And I loved to peal forth as the service went on, + O'er the heads of the worshipping fold. + + How time speeds along! Three whole centuries--yes!-- + Have passed since the day of my birth; + And, good people, I thought myself then, you may guess, + The loveliest organ on earth. + + Such pipes and such stops! and a swell--such a swell!!! + My music rang under the dome; + And the way that I held the old folks 'neath my spell + You should know; but alas! they've gone "home." + + Then my varnish was bright, and my panels were gay + With devices both script'ral and quaint; + I frightened the _sinner_ with hair turning grey, + But charmed into rapture the _saint_. + + Those faces once painted so brightly would smile, + And put out their tongues at my voice; + As the pedals were played, they would wag all the while, + And the children below would rejoice. + + Now is it not sad to have once been so grand, + And now to be shattered and old? + To look but a ruin up here, where I stand + Decidedly out in the cold? + + Each "pipe is put out," and my "stops" are no more, + I belong to a "period" remote; + And as to the tongues that wagged freely of yore, + They have long disappeared down the throat. + + My pedals are broken or gone quite awry, + My "keys"--you may "note"--are now dust; + No longer a "swell"--not as faint as a sigh-- + While my bellows, good people, are "bust." + + I am twisted and worn, in a ruinous state, + But prythee, good people, don't sneer! + My joys and my sorrows I've tried to relate, + And in judging me don't be severe!!! + +Leaving the organ, and passing behind the "high altar," we beheld +the tomb of the redoubtable saint, who is supposed to have been +shut up there at the end of the 10th century, though the gilt +ornament (?) above is some four centuries younger. The set of old +paintings to the right and left represent scenes in the good man's +life, who, if he had only changed the _i_ in his name to _o_--and +the king would have agreed readily--by the perpetual allusion to +_Savon_, would perhaps have done much for the natives generally. +The robing-room, wherein the head of the revered man is kept in a +casket, and the "Salle du Chapitre," with quaint carvings of the +12th century, beyond, are other places of interest. + +The "Château de Miramont," which adjoins, is now used as a convent +(or college), and visitors are not permitted to inspect it. We +bought a lithographed print of the church and its environs for half +a franc, from our round-backed guide, besides depositing a +"douceur" in his horny palm, and consequently parted with him on +the best of terms. The road for some distance being rather steep, +we preferred to walk and let the carriage follow, but when nearing +the junction with the Pierrefitte road, we mounted again and bowled +along at a smart pace over the well-known bridge to the hotel. + +There was nothing striking about our hotel life, although we found +it pleasant, being a "parti carré." We were generally the sole +partakers of the table-d'hôte, at which the food was excellent, the +jugged chamois (izard) being especially good. Light, however, was +at a premium. It may have been all out of compliment, to bear +testimony to our being "shining lights" ourselves; still, for all +that, we should have been glad to forego the politeness, and +receive, instead, a reinforcement of lamps. + +Argelès itself is a peculiar old place; though devoid of much +interest, except on market-days. The curious houses and towers, the +street watercourses (as at Bagnères de Bigorre), the church, and +the strange chapel-like building now used as a diocesan college, +are all that is noteworthy even, excepting the "State schools," +built three years ago. + +On a Tuesday, when the market is in full swing, the square in front +of the post-office looks bright and cheerful, and vegetables +flourish. We took a very pleasant walk after passing through the +stalls, and down past the Hôtel de France. The route we followed +leads to the right, close by the new State schools, among some poor +cottages, where it turns sharply in the opposite direction, and +runs down beside some fine old chestnut trees to the river. +Continuing, the track leads up a fine glen, with views of the snow- +peaks towards Eaux Bonnes, which well repaid our walk. + +Returning again by the town, we wandered about through the narrow +streets, taking a farewell survey before leaving for Cauterets, +whither we were next intent. + +There is another episode connected with Argelès, that will live in +our memories, and it is one that future travellers, methinks, may +have reason to appreciate, if not to endorse. + +Everybody learns from unhappy experience how sour the bread is +throughout the Pyrenees, only excepting two or three resorts, and +as we were aware of the fact before leaving Pau, we arranged with +Monsieur Kern, of the Austrian Bakery, Rue de la Préfecture, to +send us a certain amount of bread every day. The first night at +Argelès was spent without it, but on the evening of the following +day a packet was brought into the drawing-room, where we were +assembled, and at the magical word "bread" every eye brightened, +and every face relaxed into a smile. Let no one cavil. This was one +of the episodes that link Argelès to us with a pleasant charm. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +CAUTERETS. + +Hotel de la Poste, Pierrefitte--The Gorge--Its majestic beauty--The +resemblance to the Llanberis Pass--Mrs. Blunt becomes poetical--Zinc +mines--Le Pont de Médiabat--Entering the town--The Rue Richelieu and +Hôtel du Parc--Winter's seal upon them still--Thermes des +Oeufs--Thermes de César--The Casino and Esplanade des Oeufs--A good +dinner and the menu--The start for the Col de Riou--The Grange de la +Reine Hortense--The pines--Miss Blunt's "exhortation to the first +snow"--The dogs and their gambols--Defeated, but not discouraged--To +the Cérizey Cascade--The baths of La Raillère, Petit St. Sauveur, and +Le Pré--Cascade du Lutour--The Marcadau gorge--Scenery--Pic de +Gaube--At the Cérizey Cascade--The Pont d'Espagne and Lac de +Gaube--Pont de Benqués--Lutour Valley--Various excursions up same--The +"Pare"--Allées de Gambasque--The Peguère--The "Pagoda" Villa--Promenade +du Mamelon Vert--The road's up again--Blows and blasts--The bishop's +arrival--Enthusiasm, pomposity, and benedictions--The pilgrims at +large--They start on an excursion--The market and Hôtel de Ville--The +grocer's opinion--Pyrenean dogs and their treatment--The +dog-fancier--Smiles and temper--Bargaining displaced--No dog after all! + + +A Landau with four horses was ready after lunch, to transport us and +our baggage to Cauterets; but having enjoyed Argelès very much, we were +none of us particularly glad at the prospect of the change. The road as +far as Pierrefitte, lovely as it is at this season of freshness, +discloses no other views than those previously described, but when we +turned sharply to the right, after passing the Hôtel de la Poste, and +began the ascent towards Cauterets, then our eyes had indeed a rich +treat. It would require the most dismal of dismal days, with sluicing +rain and clouds low down on every beautiful crag and snow-tipped +summit, to make anybody born with a soul above his dinner, complain of +the grandeur of the gorge, or impugn the unceasing variety of dashing +waterfalls, foaming river, freshly-opened leaves, white heather, and +bright, flower-decked fields. + +The same wild majesty as the Llanberis Pass presents, strikes one here: +the enormous crags in threatening attitude far up the heights, the +chasms and fissures brightened by a patch of young grass or a small +tree, and, nearer the road, the scattered boulders luxuriantly covered +with moss and fern, belong to both alike; and, while the bushes of +snowy heather, the constant splash of the cascades falling over the +rocks in feathery spray, and in the distance the hoary-headed monarchs +of the range reaching up towards the sky, make this different from the +familiar Welsh scene, it is only a difference that greatly intensifies +the beauty and the charm of this Cauterets gorge. + +Even Mrs. Blunt, who as a rule prefers the matter-of-fact to the +poetical, was lifted out of herself, for she suddenly clutched me by +the arm, and pointing in the distance, murmured something about +"summits proudly lifting up to the sky," and being quite unused to that +kind of thing, it took me some time to recover from the shock. + +A little over three miles from Pierrefitte,--where a glimpse at the +zinc mines and the wire tram in connection with them can be +obtained--the road passes over the bridge of Médiabat, and some yards +beyond becomes identical with the old route, which until then lay below +us. The new portion (made in 1874) only extends for about two miles, +as it does not commence till after the zigzag rise from Pierrefitte +leads into the gorge, but the engineering of the whole has been +admirably carried out, and the ascent of nearly 1,700 feet in the six +miles does not tell severely on the horses. Now in an almost straight +line, now by zigzags, we gradually neared the town, the gorge widening +at the same time, though the peaks, some covered with trees, some +snow-covered, seemed to bar the way completely at no very great +distance. + +We were quite close before we could really be said to have seen the +town, and ere we could form any opinion of it we drove up the Rue +Richelieu and found ourselves at the Hôtel du Parc. Monsieur +Villeneuve, the jovial and experienced host, and his pleasant spouse, +came out to welcome us, and although the hotel had only been open four +days, made us as comfortable as they could. + +[Illustration: CAUTERETS.] + +Cauterets (3,254 feet) was only just waking into life, only two or +three hotels, one or two hair-dressers, one confectioner's, one +tobacconist's, and one or two grocers' shops were open; while of the +bathing establishments, the "Thermes des Oeufs," the largest, and the +Thermes de César, were the only ones showing signs of renewed life. +The Esplanade des Oeufs, [Footnote: "Oeufs" because of the water's +scent resembling "rotten eggs."] a large tree-planted space in front of +the principal "thermes" (just mentioned)--which serves as casino, +concert-hall, and theatre as well--seemed utterly deserted; whereas in +summer, with the band playing, the trees in full leaf, the booths +opened, and the crowds of visitors, the scene must be the gayest of +the gay. We had just time to notice so much, on the afternoon of our +arrival, before the sun set behind the huge mountains which surround +this charming spot and the hour of dinner arrived. This dinner was so +excellent, so well cooked and served, that, although we despise with a +deep-rooted scorn the wretched class of individuals who make their +dinner their main object in life, we nevertheless consider that we are +only paying a merited tribute to the _chef_ in saying that the +cooking was always of a high standard, and quoting as a specimen the +evening's _menu_ (May 1): + +SOUP. +Gravy. + +FISH. +Salmon, with sliced potatoes and melted butter. + +MADE DISHES. +Hashed Veal. Sauce Piquante. +Sweetbreads and green peas. + +ROAST. +Chicken. + +VEGETABLES. +Asparagus. Potatoes (new). + +PUDDING. +Sago. + +ICE, &c. +Vanilla cream. +Cheese, Jelly, and Biscuits. + +When we woke the following morning, the sun shining from a cloudless +sky proclaimed an "excursion morning." Accordingly, we sent for a +guide, to inquire if a visit to the Lac de Gaube was practicable. The +guide arrived, and disappointment ensued. It was possible to go if we +didn't mind a few miles of snow, two feet deep and upwards. But we did +mind very strongly, and said so. Then the burly native spoke again, and +said that the Col de Riou was an easy trip, that we could take horses +to within a short distance of the summit, and that when we got there +the splendid view would include St. Sauveur, Argelès, Barèges, +Gavarnie, &c. &c. And we answered the burly native in his sister tongue +(_patois_ was his mother tongue), or as near to it as we could, +and said, "Have three horses ready by half-past ten at this hotel, and +we will start." Then, delighted, he smiled and bowed, and disappeared +down the street. + +At eleven o'clock the cavalcade started, and a noble cavalcade it was: +Miss Blunt on a strong dark bay pony, Mr. Sydney on a similar-coloured +horse, and myself on a grey, formed the van; then came our burly friend +(by name Pont Dominique), and another guide (Berret), carrying the +lunch; and the rear was brought up by a small brindled bull-dog, and a +smaller specimen of unknown breed, which was nevertheless a capital +harmony in orange and white. In this order we left the Rue Richelieu +and ascended the Rue d'Etigny, passing under several wreaths and +crowns, with which the streets were decorated. We had previously +noticed these grand preparations on our arrival, and though sensible of +the good feeling that apparently prompted these attentions, we thought +they were somewhat superfluous. But that is (as they were) by the way. +Having soon reached the last of the houses, we gained the Rue du Pauze +Vieux, and turning sharply to the right, ascended to the two +establishments known respectively as the Pauze Vieux and Pauze Nouveau. +And here a paradox--pause, view, and be convinced! The Pauze Vieux is +the Pauze Nouveau and the Pauze Nouveau is the Pauze Vieux. Should any +well-educated citizen of any country under the sun (or daughter) be +disposed to doubt, let him examine the buildings for himself, and he +must agree. + +Half-an-hour after starting we reached the cottage known as the "Grange +de la Reine Hortense," the view from which is excessively fine. Looking +down towards the town, the mighty Cabaliros (7655 ft.), forming a +semicircle, stood above on the right; to the left of this semicircle +reared up the Monné (8938 ft.), the highest mountain in the vicinity, +from which other peaks make another similar formation, ending with La +Brune, beside which, but more to the left and immediately over the +town, rises the Peguère, covered with irregularly-heaped crags, and +pines. The town itself looked very neat and compact: the Mamelon Vert +(a small hill to the right) and the chief thorough-fares being easily +distinguished. Far up the Lutour valley, to the extreme left, the Pic +de Labassa, or de la Sèbe (9781 ft.), and the Pyramide de Peyrelance +(8800 ft.), completed the chief points of the scene in that direction; +but far away in the opposite one we could easily see the Argelès valley +and the Gothic church of Lourdes. Behind us, seemingly facing the +Cabaliros, were the Col de Riou (6375 ft.), our would-be destination, +and the Pic de Viscos. Winding up the hillside, and passing banks blue +with the large and small gentian, we entered the pines, which made a +pleasant change. As at the Col d'Aspin, [Footnote: Vide Bigorre, p. +42.] the rising sap filled the air with its refreshing odour, and the +occasional glimpses of blue sky, mountain, and valley, through the +gently waving branches, were very charming. + +[Illustration: ASCENT OF COL DE RIOU] + +We had not proceeded very far through the trees when we reached a +break, where one of the party felt that at least something had been +gained. There, partly on the track, partly on the loose stones above +it, lay a bank of snow, and so delighted was Miss Blunt at having +attained the (present) snow-line--say about 4600 feet above sea +level--that her feelings were not to be in any way damped or +suppressed, as they burst forth in an + +"EXHORTATION TO THE FIRST SNOW." + + Emblem of Purity, + Chilly as Charity, +Oh, what a joy your deep whiteness to view! + Something is gain'd at last, + But you are melting fast, +Why does the cruel sun put you to stew? + + Tell me, O long-lain snow, + What of the vale below? +What do you think about people and things? + Do you love forest-trees? + Or love you more the breeze? +Tell me what bird you think most sweetly sings? + + What? You've no heart at all? + Cannot help where you fall, +Caring not if you swell to a huge size: + Minding not how you rush, + What you break, whom you crush? +Surely such feelings you ought to disguise. + + Ah, well! we won't discuss, + Useless to make a fuss; +For, after all, I am glad that we met. + Emblem of Purity, + Chilly as Charity-- +But I won't roll in you. No! you're too wet! + +The two dogs were amusing in their absurdity. They were perpetually +endeavouring to detach stones from the side of the pathway, so as to +have the pleasure of pursuing them down the steep. At times, when the +hill was thickly strewn with leaves or particularly steep, they +completely disappeared, though violent pulsations among the scattered +branches and the aforesaid leaves told us they were not lost, but only +temporarily buried. + +When we had barely mounted another 400 feet, we came upon regular banks +of snow, right over the path. This was quite unexpected, and we had to +decide whether to leave the horses and tramp through the snow, or to +return. We chose the latter--although the Col de Riou stood out +seemingly very practicable of ascent--and, returning on foot, the +horses and guides following, with the dogs here, there, and everywhere, +we reached the "Grange de la Reine Hortense" and proceeded to lunch. +After giving a very good account of the _paté_ sandwiches, and not +forgetting the guides and the dogs, we made our way slowly back, +defeated perhaps, but certainly not discouraged. + +Although neither the Lac de Gaube nor the Pont d'Espagne were +attainable, the Cérizey Fall, which is about one third of the distance +to the lake along the same route, was kind enough to put itself at our +disposal. Not wishing to appear ungrateful, we availed ourselves of a +fine afternoon to order round the horses and our two guides, and +started about two o'clock. For some time we followed the road known as +the Rue de la Raillère, which leads to the baths of the same name from +the Place St. Martin; crossing the river by a very unpretentious +bridge, not far from the town. Leaving La Raillère behind, and passing +in turn the drinking establishment of Mauhourat--near which the Gaves +of Lutour and Marcadau form the Gave of Cauterets--and the baths of +Petit St. Sauveur and Le Pré, and gaining as we mounted a good view of +the "Cascade de Lutour" on the left, we entered the Marcadau valley, or +(more properly) gorge. The scenery, similar somewhat to that at the +entrance to the Cauterets gorge from Pierrefitte, is nevertheless +wilder and more severe. The occasional bright fields and frequent +mountain streams, with their merry music, disappear; but the lofty +heights, the gloomy firs, the mighty crags and boulders, and the +snow-peaks beyond, remain. After a great amount of very rough and steep +ascending--the Pic de Gaube (7644 ft.) the while standing conspicuously +before us--we reached the small hut that is intended as a shelter, near +the fall. Dismounting and taking the narrow path to the right over the +stones, immediately above the hut, we obtained a capital view of this +noisy cascade. Other views were obtained by us from above, by +clambering over the stones and boulders at the side of the torrent; but +this is the best of all. From the hut (mentioned above) one hour's good +walking, over anything but a pleasant track, brings one to the Pont +d'Espagne, and it requires another forty minutes to reach the Lac de +Gaube. + +[Footnote: The lake is full of excellent salmon trout, and there is a +small inn on its shores, where visitors can stop the night in summer. +The Vignemale, from whose summit the view is wonderfully vast, rears up +above the lake.] + +As horses can be taken for the whole distance when the road is free +from snow, our feelings at not being able to proceed can be better +imagined than described! By Mauhourat, whither we presently returned, +the Pont de Benquès crosses the Marcadau, and the track to the left +leads up the valley of the Gavé de Lutour. We did not pursue it very +far, as the workmen were busy repairing it, and it is also very rough +and steep. Several favourite excursions, however, are reached by it, +among which may be mentioned the Cascade de "Pisse-Arros" (forty +minutes from Cauterets), the "Fruitière" (two hours from Cauterets), +the Lac d'Estom, 5847 ft. (three hours from Cauterets), the Ravin +d'Araillé (three hours forty-five minutes), the Lake of Estom Soubiran, +7632 ft. (four hours thirty minutes), the Lake of Estibaoute, 7744 ft. +(four hours forty five minutes), and the Col d'Estom Soubiran (six +hours thirty minutes). + +[Illustration: LAC DE GAUBE.] + +Instead of again crossing the bridge below La Raillère, we kept to the +left, along what may have been _once_ a Roman road, but which was +_now_ at any rate a track both unpleasant and dangerous. + +For some distance, large boulders, soil, and smaller stones overhung +it, and seemed as though the least rain or slightest push would bring +them down. Gradually this unpleasantness ceased, and as the road +widened we passed a few villas and entered the "Parc," which, according +to the natives, is part and parcel of the Esplanade des Oeufs, the +great summer resort in front of the Casino, from the back of which a +pleasant path of very gentle gradient ascends for about a mile to the +"Allées de Cambasque," up the flank of the Peguère; and to the Cabanes +(huts) de Cambasque beyond. + +Although there is but little level road for enjoying a ride, we +nevertheless managed to pass a short time very pleasantly on horseback. +Leaving the Esplanade des Oeufs on the left, we took the road passing +between the back of the Hôtel d'Angleterre and a curious chalet, built +with a pagoda beside it, and little bridges in communication. Following +this road, which is known as the Promenade du Mamelon Vert, [Footnote: +The Mamelon Vert is a green hill near the entrance to the town.] and in +turn passing the "Café du Mamelon Vert"--near which the track to the +Cabaliros branches off--and the commencement of the path to Catarabe, +we bore down to the right at the back of the Mamelon, and crossed the +Gave by a rickety wooden bridge--shortly to be superseded by one of +stone--into the Pierrefitte road. Down this, through the fine gorge +within sight of the mines, and then back to the hotel, constituted the +remainder of the ride. + +Our stay at Cauterets was not without excitement, though certainly that +excitement was not of a pleasant kind. We soon discovered that the +decorating of the streets was for the benefit of the "Confirmation +Procession," for which the Bishop was coming from Tarbes. The Rue +Richelieu was "up" all along one side for the laying of gas-pipes, and, +by way of diversion, every now and then--usually when we were at +dinner, or wanting to look out of the window--a penny squeaking trumpet +would sound, then a lad would rush about and close all the shutters, +leaving the rooms in darkness and the inmates in suspense, till it +ended in a series of loud reports, accompanied by the distribution of +various specimens of granite in all directions. The authorities stopped +this nice performance when the Bishop was expected, as the mere chance +of "blasting" a Bishop would have been too painful for the Catholic +workmen's feelings, especially as they hoped for a benediction! As soon +as word arrived of the approach of "Monseigneur's" carriage, the curé +and chief dignitaries of the town, accompanied by a brass band, a +detachment of firemen, and a small regiment of women--decked in hoods +of blue or red or white--passed down the muddy street, bearing banners, +and a gilded canopy with white plumes. In a few moments they returned, +the band playing, the banners waving, the abbés and choir singing, and +in the centre of the throng, with two curés in front of him under the +canopy, came the new Bishop of Tarbes, resplendent in violet watered +silk, trimmed with beautiful lace, gloves of the same hue, with ring on +the outside of the right hand, which he perpetually kissed to the +admiring spectators. Miss Blunt, who was for once able to look out of +the window in safety, had a special one all to herself, and of course +she didn't mind any amount of explosions after that! + +Then we had other excitements, in the shape of wretched bands of +pilgrims, who, having a spare day, came up from Lourdes to see the +mountains. They invaded our salon, drank beer at eight o'clock in the +morning, and looked on the whole--in spite of their rosettes of black, +red, and yellow--as disreputable a lot of individuals as ever turned +religion into farce. Whether it was quite worth while suffering their +presence for the fun of seeing them mount, when starting for their +excursion, is open to question, but that it was a unique and comic +sight we were all agreed. The hotel garden, filled with guides, horses, +donkeys, and pilgrims; the delicate exhibition of ankles and feet +--such feet; the chairs to help the rotund damsels; the swarm of +natives round one especially fat woman, who got down after all; the +beaming face of the host, and the gloomy looks of a very fat man, just +the size for a small pilgrim tea party; not omitting the priest, whose +flowing robe nearly hid his _better half_ (viz. the donkey), made +a scene worthy of reproduction in the pages of 'Punch.' + +Although we strolled about a good deal, we found but little of interest +in the town itself; perhaps the most fascinating spot was the +Patisserie Suisse, in the Rue César, just below the baths of the same +name. The Hôtel de Ville is a fine building, and in summer perhaps, the +market, which stands in a street to the left of it, may present an +animated spectacle; but at this time it had the appearance of a large +monkey cage, with good strong iron railings in front, a few cabbages +and onions, and a small group of ancient and much-wizened native +specimens inside. + +We enjoyed our stay, however, in the midst of all the wild scenery +immensely, and think that but few people, if they came during the month +of June, would be prepared to differ from us. There are always some of +course, and before coming we had the pleasure of meeting two of them, +in the shape of a retired _grocer_ (or something of that kind in +the wholesale line) and his wife. They both declared that "Cauterets +was a vile 'ole, with 'igh streets and showy 'ouses, and that a +sensible 'uman being wouldn't stay there ha _h_our;" but it must +be mentioned in their favour, that the day on which they went was +rather damp, and there was only one grocer's shop open. If anyone +should be disposed to take their verdict as more conclusive than ours, +we can simply say, "Believe neither, but go and see for yourself." + +There is one other subject worth mentioning, in regard to which we had +a trifling diversion on the morning of our departure. The true breed of +Pyrenean dogs may be seen at Cauterets, and puppies obtained by any +people who wish to have a specimen of this fine race. The great secret +in rearing them is to avoid meat of any kind, and feed them on bread +with a little milk, or very thin soup. It is not the climate of +England, as has so often been alleged, which gives them consumption, +but the change to rich diet from the meagre fare which in the mountains +they always receive. + +The prices vary so much, that it is wisest for a stranger to enlist the +services of some trustworthy native to arrange the purchase, rather +than to do the bargaining himself. Pups from six weeks to three months +sell at from ten francs to one hundred, but a really fine specimen of +two and a half months ought to be bought for thirty-five francs. Dogs +of six months and upwards are expensive; as much as five hundred francs +being asked for them in the season. + +As Miss Blunt had a great desire to become the possessor of one of +these fluffy creatures, whenever any were seen inquiries were always +directed at once with regard to their parentage and price. Happening to +perceive a woolly tail disappearing behind a workshop in the Rue de la +Raillère a few hours before we had to start, we passed up a short entry +beside the aforementioned workshop, and asked to see the owner of the +dogs. In a few seconds he stood before us, a weather-beaten Frenchman, +who, as well as his clothes and his intellect, had seen better days--a +man about five feet six inches high, with face deeply lined; moustache, +goatee, and hair, all somewhat sparse and grizzled; a blue berret (the +native hat) in his hand; his shirt fastened by a single stud, barely +hiding what had been once a brawny chest; his loose trousers +half-covered by a leathern apron; and his two coats both threadbare, +and decorated with ribands in an equally worn-out state--such, bowing +and smiling as he approached, was the proprietor alike of the dogs and +the workshop. In spite of his poor appearance and idiosyncrasy--almost +approaching to madness--he had a certain dignity of manner which we +could not fail to notice. But he was very trying to deal with. Whenever +the price was the object of our inquiry, he began in the following +strain: "Very good, very good; which does Monsieur like? which does +Ma'm'selle prefer? The finest of course? Ah yes, the finest! Ah, very +good; take your choice, Monsieur; take which you please. The finest +dogs in the world! See! see! Monsieur" (and here he pointed to the +ribands on his breast), "I gained the prize at the Paris +Exhibition!--at the Paris Exhibition!--the exhibition open to all the +world--I, with the dogs I had brought down from the mountains and bred +myself, I gained the prize. Ha! ha! there were two Englishmen, two of +your fellow-countrymen, who thought they would beat me; but no, no, +Monsieur, it was to me you see (pointing to his breast again), +Monsieur, that they gave the prize." At last, however, he named fifty +francs as the price of either, which was very excessive, and when I +suggested ten--which was proportionately low--he proceeded to take off +his apron, roll up his coat-sleeves, and then, looking at me fiercely, +said, "So, Monsieur, you take me for a ten-franc man, do you? You think +to mock me, do you? I, who gained the prize at the Paris Exhibition, +the exhibition open to all the world, for the finest dogs, you think I +will sell my puppies at ten francs, Monsieur? No, Monsieur. I will not +sell you one for ten francs, and I do not wish to have anything more to +do with you." And then he, who five minutes before had been shaking my +hand with delight because I knew the owner of the parent dog (of his +puppies), with a lofty wave of the hand motioned me to depart. Before +doing so I soothed his offended dignity by a mellifluous explanation, +and he once more, but somewhat loftily, offered me his hand as I bade +him farewell. So, in spite of the pleasant diversion, Miss Blunt did +not get her dog! + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +LUZ AND BARÈGES. + +Rain at starting--A blighted view, yet lovely still--Pont d'Enfer +--Nature's voice--Sère and Esquiez--Luz--Its situation and status--An +old house--The ancient Church of the Templars--La Chapelle de St. +Roch--Pyrenean museum--Hôtel de l'Univers--Château de Ste. Marie--"The +Jackdaw's Causerie"--A new "Diet of Worms"--The new bathing +establishment--To Barèges--Pic d'Ayré--Esterre--Viella--Betpouey--Mill +conduits--Cercle des Etrangers--Opinion of the town--Grand +Etablissement--Promenade Horizontale--Hospice de Ste. Eugénie--"The Jay +of Barèges"--Wood anemones--Hepaticas--Valley of Lienz--Pic de +Lienz--Pic d'Ayré's summit--Pic de Néouville--Mountain rhododendrons +--_Anemone vernalis_. + + +Although we had beautiful weather all the while we remained in +Cauterets, directly we prepared to depart down came the rain, the mists +descended over the hills, and until we reached Pierrefitte we were +unable to obtain more than momentary glances at the beauty we had so +delighted in, before. Having crossed the Gave de Barèges by the Pont de +Villelongue, we were soon in the gorge, the rocks on the left of which +were blasted for five miles, when the road was constructed. +Notwithstanding that it still rained, the clouds were a little higher, +and our view consequently less contracted. + +[Illustration: THE GORGE NEAR PIERREFITTE.] + +The beauty of the scene was indisputable, and yet it was a beauty less +wild and majestic, and more unequal, than that of the Cauterets Gorge. +The heights on the left had frequently the barest and most +uninteresting appearance, when on the other side the eye was enchanted +with the varied spring tints on the trees massed together up the slopes +from the river, whose limpid green pools or foaming rapids gave such a +charm to the picture. The old road is seen in many parts, and several +of the old bridges, but the one about three and three-quarter miles +from Pierrefitte, at a point where the Gorge widens--known as the Pont +d'Enfer, and built partly of wood as well as stone--is by far the most +interesting. The scenery in its vicinity was particularly beautiful. +The wild quinces, with their white blossoms mingling with those of the +cherry and the light green of the maples, larches, elms, birches, and +limes; the bright fields above, and the ever-lovely river below; with +the massive crags and a babbling waterfall, rendered this part +especially--as well as several others in a lesser degree--enchanting. + +An enthusiast might easily write a book on the beauty of this gorge +alone, but in this age he would probably find few readers; of those who +did look at his book the greater number would find it probably too +highly-coloured, while the more enthusiastic ones would lament its lack +of warmth. Not wishing to incur the displeasure of either, we refrain +from saying a great deal about the splendour of this drive; knowing +that to a lover of the beautiful in Nature, all we have left unsaid +Nature will herself say ten times more impressively. + +After passing the monument in honour of the "Reine Hortense," which is +five miles from Pierrefitte, and crossing the Bridge de la Hiladère, we +soon caught sight of some villages on the left, where poplars--stiffly +prominent in all directions--spoil much of the picturesqueness of the +surroundings. The villages of Sère and Esquiez, that we saw when +nearing Luz, are ancient and worthy of a visit. Together they formed a +"chef-lieu" before the eleventh century, and the Roman church in each, +but especially that of Sère, is exceedingly interesting. A few moments, +during which we crossed a marble bridge over the Gave de Bastan, and, +bearing to the left, we were in Luz. + +Denominated by various titles, from a "poor village" to a "small rustic +town," Luz is by no means an insignificant place. It doubtless owes a +great deal to its situation in a pleasant hollow among the hills, with +a pleasant landscape on all sides, and its appearance is certainly more +quaint and rustic than poor. Undoubtedly there are several old houses, +some looking particularly unsafe; undoubtedly the streets are often +very narrow; and perhaps the inhabitants on the whole may be far from +wealthy; but with all this Luz is not a poor looking village. On a +market-day the streets in the vicinity of the old church, built--partly +in the 12th and finished between the 15th and 16th centuries--by the +Templars, assume a wonderfully gay appearance, and towards the back of +the church we noticed one old house whose balconies, if a trifle warped +and weather-beaten under the thin covering of white paint, were +nevertheless bright with pots of geraniums, wallflowers, and stocks. + +The church itself is most interesting, and was at one time very +formidable also. Surrounded by a high wall pierced with loopholes in a +double row, lies the graveyard, which is only a narrow strip between +the ramparts and the church, the body of which lies between two towers. +Under the higher of these, facing north, and built for defence with +loopholes and embrasures, is one of the church doors, which leads to +the high altar steps in a direct line from the entrance into the +churchyard. Further to the right, but also facing north, is the most +remarkable entrance, the inscriptions on the arch dating from the 12th +century. On the extreme right is a door leading into the chapel, built +in the 16th century, and dedicated to St. Roch. We found the inside +interesting, without possessing any very striking features. + +[Illustration] + +The effect from the main gallery is perhaps best, and the smaller ones +running along the sides have a weird and aged appearance. Near the +entrance to the church, low down, is shown what was once the door for +that wretched race of beings, the "Cagots." + +[Footnote: We found it difficult to obtain any reliable information +about these creatures. They seem to have led an existence like the +lepers in Palestine, being avoided and despised by the inhabitants +generally, and they appear to have been both diminutive and ugly.(See +St. Savin, p. 73).] + +The Chapelle de St. Roch, which we passed into from the gallery in the +main building, is the most striking of the two. The gallery and stairs +were in a very shaky condition, and two candle-stands near the latter +seemed to have been in their prime many generations ago. The vaulted +roof, with the curious wooden groins, and the ancient _bénitier_ +near the door, are worthy of inspection. Without scrambling up the +tower to the "Pyrenean Museum," but not forgetting to examine the old +bell-tower and its bells facing west, we walked down to the left and +joined the main road. + +The ancient Castle de Sainte Marie--a very interesting and historic +ruin--being in the vicinity, we followed the principal highway to the +right, and passing the much-recommended Hôtel de l'Univers, were soon +in the proximity of the château, which, standing alone on the summit of +a pointed hill, was charmingly conspicuous. The path, after winding up +the hill, leads to an entrance at the back, which is locked, the castle +being now the property of the Précepteur of Luz, who, however, is +always willing to accommodate strangers by allowing them to enter, as +well as to inspect his garden, and the very striking image of the +Virgin which he has had perched on the front walls. A great number of +jackdaws have taken up their quarters in the old towers, and as one of +them kept continually cawing as though anxious to be heard, we append +what we made out to be the meaning of his chatter (it is said they +never speak without _cause_), which we call + +"THE JACKDAW'S CAUSERIE." + +"THE JACKDAW'S CAUSERIE." + +Caw, caw! cried the jackdaw, and cawed again, +As he circled out of the ancient tower: +Caw, caw! and he circled thrice over the plain, +And cawed once more as he reached his bower. + +Caw, caw! I was born in this fortress old, +As old as the hills, some folks might say; +Five hundred centuries, caw, have rolled +Since first it stood in the light of day. + +Caw, caw! just to think I have built my nest +Where the Black Prince ruled in such royal state. +Caw, caw! I wonder if ever he guess'd +That this would in time be his castle's fate. + +Caw, caw! but I never could quite perceive +Why one tower is round and the other square. +If I'd been the prince, I can well believe +I'd have made the architect build a pair. + +Caw, caw! by-the-bye, there was old Coffite[1] +And Jean de Bourbon, that fought so well; +And 'tis said that the prince underwent defeat-- +At least my mother this tale would tell. + +Caw, caw! they've finished with siege and fight; +The castle's too old for that, of course; +They go in for piety on the right,[2] +And we caw away till our voice grows hoarse. + +Caw, caw! I'm a Catholic right sincere, +But somehow or other I cannot see +Why they put up the Virgin's statue[3] here-- +The place is as wrong as a place could be. + +Caw, caw! I must see how my youngsters look +In their quiet nursery 'mid the stones; +Next week they'll be able "to take their hook,"[4] +And--but there they go with their squeaking tones. + +Caw, caw! cried the jackdaw, the world is vain, +But I love to dwell in my ancient tower. +Caw, caw!--why the wretches want feeding again, +They've a "diet of worms" nearly every hour. +And he cawed as he flew to the nursery bower. + +[Footnote 1: It is said that Jean de Bourbon, Comte de Clermont, and +Auger Coffite of Luz, took this castle in 1404.] + +[Footnote 2: The author does not hold himself responsible for the +jackdaw's slang, which refers to the statue.] + +[Footnote 3: This statue is in honour of "Notre Dame de Lourdes."] + +[Footnote 4: Again the jackdaw indulges in slang!] + +Leaving the jackdaw to pursue his paternal duties, we descended again +to the town, and sheltered awhile from a shower under the balcony of +the new and gaudy-looking bathing establishment, that stands in the +outskirts, towards St. Sauveur. These baths, which are only opened +during the summer, are supplied with water from Barèges, whither we +were only waiting for a fine day to make an excursion. But fine days +just then were rather hard to find, so we contented ourselves with one +that did not look very ominous, and taking a good lunch with us, +started in a landau and four at ten o'clock. + +[Illustration: THE CASTLE OF STE. MARIE.] + +The road after leaving Luz follows the course of the Gave de Bastan, +skirting in turn the base of the Montaigu [Footnote: Not to be in any +way confounded with the Montaigu near Bigorre. The French mountain +vocabulary is so defective, they often call several heights by the same +name.] and that of the Pic d'Ayré, and, passing through the villages of +Esterre (2 miles), Viella (2-1/4 miles), and Betpouey (3-1/2 miles), +winds in steep zigzags up to Barèges (4064 ft.). + +This valley, after what we had seen, did not give us much pleasure; its +appearance on the whole being sterile, though after leaving Luz as far +as Esterre, the brightness of the fields and trees, and the splashing +of the water overflowing the miniature mill conduits, made a pleasant +landscape. + +The actual distance from Luz to Barèges is barely four miles, and yet +so great is the height of the latter (1600 ft. above Luz) that it was +nearly one o'clock when we pulled up at the Cercle des Etrangers--the +only specimen of a hotel or café open--for our lunch. + +After a pleasant meal we made a move to inspect the town and its +environs, and were not long in forming an opinion, at any rate, on the +former, which we think most visitors at this season of the year would +be inclined to endorse. One long ascending street lined with houses all +shut up, occasional breaks where a narrow alley or the roads to the +hospitals and promenades branched off, the bathing establishments under +much-needed repair, the dirty-looking river dashing down behind, on the +left; the beech boughs clad in dead leaves rustling on the slopes, in +the opposite direction; and a few natives here and there, very untidy +and sleepy-looking, as though with difficulty awaking from the +"dormouse" state, complete the picture of Barèges, which we need hardly +add is in itself a most desolate and dreary-looking place. In +mid-summer, with the sun shining and the trees in full leaf, an +improvement in the scene would be noticeable; but very few, except +invalids specially recommended for a course of the waters, are at +anytime likely to stay there more than a few hours. + +[Illustration: BARÈGES.] + +We took the road leading up, to the right of the "Grand Etablissement," +to the Promenade Horizontale, the great summer rendezvous, and passing +the "Hospice de Ste. Eugénie" began the ascent up the easy zigzags of +the "Allée Verte." We had not made much progress when we startled, from +what was doubtless a contemplative mood, a very fine jay. He did not +seem to like the disturbance at all, but kept flying from branch to +branch in the vicinity, repeatedly uttering his guttural cries. + +As the tenor of his thoughts--uttered in rather a shrill treble--seemed +to bear considerably on topics of general interest, in spite of the +apparent selfishness that was the key-note of the whole, we think it +expedient to let posterity enjoy the enlightenment we received from + +"THE JAY OF BARÈGES." + + Lawks a mussy! and shiver my feathers! + Why this is a wonderful sight; + In spite of my earnest endeavours, + I can't quite get over my fright. + + 'Tis so long since the strangers departed, + They ne'er would return, I had thought; + So no shame at their coming I started, + Though perchance I felt worse than I ought. + + Still to think through the days cold and lonely + I've wandered about at my will, + With no one to chase me, and only + The need to prevent getting chill. + + Well, I say--when I think of the quiet + And rest that is now at its close-- + I have doubts of enduring the riot + After such a long time of repose. + + It is not that I hate to see pleasure, + It is not that the world I detest; + But I like to have comfort and leisure, + And not to be teased and oppress'd. + + I don't mind the smell from the fountains, + --Though a rotten-egg scent is not sweet-- + For I always can fly to the mountains + And seek some umbrageous retreat. + + Then the season for shooting is over, + So the sportsmen[1] will leave me alone, + And I'll pose as a Go(u)ld Jay in clover, + Avoiding a _dollar_ous tone. + + To my doctor, perhaps, 'twould be better + The final decision to leave; + And I'll follow his choice to the letter, + He's a bird I can always believe. + + That reminds me 'tis time for my dinner, + And as I don't wish it to wait, + As sure as I'm saint and no sinner, + I'll be off at my very best rate. + +[Footnote 1: The jay, with all its sophistry, did not apparently know +that French sportsmen only kill what they can eat, and therefore its +fears would in any case have been groundless.] + +And with a concluding chuckle the bright bird disappeared. We were by +this time beyond the "Forest Administration" hut, and close upon the +snow, which lay in narrow but deep drifts among the trees, the wood +anemones and fine hepaticas growing in groups close by. + +As we gradually progressed, the snow occupied the greater part of the +way, and we were forced to betake ourselves to the extreme edge; and +when at last we emerged into the Vallée de Lienz, trees and branches +had to be scrambled over to avoid a wetting, although we were obliged +to cross one or two drifts after all. Getting clear of the trees, we +came in full view of the imposing Pic de Lienz (7501 ft.) on the left, +and the rounded summit of the Pic d'Ayré (7931 ft.). Passing the two +cabins constructed among the rocks in the open, we crossed the swift +brook and began the ascent of the inferior but well-wooded hill below +the Pic de Lienz. There is no proper path up to this Pic (as to most +others), and the grass is rather bad for walking; but the views up the +valley to the mighty Pic de Néouville (10,146 ft.), and the whole range +behind the Pic d'Ayré, are very grand. We only went to the bend just +before the summit of the Col, resting awhile among a huge pile of +boulders, brightened by bushes of the mountain rhododendron, before +commencing to descend. A fine specimen of the rather rare _Anemone +vernalis_ was a prize that fell to us as we carefully balanced +ourselves on the slippery tufts which so often, carrying the feet along +at an increased speed, cause the owner to find himself rather +unpleasantly acquainted with mother earth. However, we reached the huts +again in safety, and made considerably shorter cuts on our way back to +the town, encountering a solitary sheep with a very young lamb at one +of our sharp turns. + +We arrived at the café just in time for tea, and then the horses were +put in and we rattled back, having, in spite of the barrenness of +Barèges, spent a very pleasant day. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +ST. SAUVEUR. + +Pont de Pescadère--Sassis--Gave de Gavarnie--St. Sauveur--Hotel de +France--Pont Napoléon--Napoleon's pillar--Bee orchids--Chapel of +Solferino--The view from thence--Ne'er a hermit but for gold--Luz +Cemetery--Luz Post Office--Short cuts--Pharmacie Claverie--Jardin à +l'Anglaise--Ascent of Pic de Bergons--Villenave--The shepherds' +huts--Lunch--Snow, its use and abuse--On foot--"Excelsior"--Dangerous +footing--The last crest but one--The view--Gavarnie and Argelès in +sight--A lazy guide--A "fast" bit--Mountain flowers--Mr. Sydney to the +fore--A short walk and a good view--To Sazos and Grust--The bathing +establishments--Sazos: the old church--The belfry--Chiming +extraordinary--Various promenades--Gems of hill and vale. + + +At the bridge known as the Pont de Pescadère the road from Pierrefitte +forks; the branch to the left leads to Luz, while the road to St. +Sauveur branches off to the right, and passes through the village of +Sassis, above which is the more important one of Sazos. Then, keeping +to the riverside till within half a mile of the town, it throws out a +branch over the Gave de Gavarnie to Luz, and bending in the opposite +direction, winds steeply past the baths to the hotels. + +Like many of the villages in Japan, and especially along the great +Nakasendo, St. Sauveur possesses one single street. The resemblance +continues further with the fine scenery, but there it ends. The look of +the houses and the comfort of the Hôtel de France find, alas! no +parallel yet in the interior of that wonderful country. + +[Illustration: ST. SAUVEUR.] + +We came to St. Sauveur direct without stopping at Luz, but as the +latter is the larger town--in fact the mainstay of the former, and also +the nearer to Pierrefitte--we have given it precedence. For situation +and all other qualifications, except as a residence in winter, St. +Sauveur easily bears away the palm. The morning after our arrival, when +the sun was shining brightly, we walked up through the remainder of the +diminutive town to the Pont Napoléon, one of the most remarkable +bridges in the Pyrenees. The bridge itself is 216 feet above the river, +and sixty-nine feet wide; but it is not so much the construction +--though that is well carried out--as the position, which +especially attracts on a lovely spring morning. The river, of a +beautiful light green tint, wandering down the valley towards +Pierrefitte, the trees with varied foliage crowding the slopes above, +the glimpse of Saint Sauveur with its church, and the hills with the +snowpeaks beyond, on either side--made such a glorious _ensemble_ +as we were not slow to appreciate. + +[Illustration: PONT NAPOLÉON, ST. SAUVEUR.] + +But this was not all--nor nearly all--for not only had we the view of +the grand rocky gorge from which the river issues above, but we could +also take the easy gradient down to the riverside itself, which leads +from the near side of the bridge, as well as survey the loveliness from +the terrace at the base of the arch, on the side beyond. Having crossed +this fine piece of engineering, and passed the pillar surmounted by an +eagle erected in honour of Napoleon III. and the Empress Eugénie, we +found the road led at right angles in both directions. The one to the +right, to Gavarnie, we hoped to take thither later; the one to the +left, leading to Luz, we followed there and then. After curving once or +twice within view of the bridge, it bifurcates, forming an upper and a +lower route, both of which lead to Luz, if desired. The lower, which is +the direct route from Gavarnie to Luz, we abstained from taking, +preferring the upper road to the right, which leads past fields +resplendent with flowers (among which the "bee" orchid is noticeable), +to the chapel of Solferino. + +The view from the hill on which the chapel is built is an excellent +one. Looking towards Luz, several small villages may be seen up the +Barèges valley, with the Pic de Mont Aigu, and the Pic d'Ayré (7931 +feet) on the right, and--immediately over against the town--the Pic de +Néré on the left. Looking towards Pierrefitte, other small villages, +and the whole of the Luz valley; on the left, St. Sauveur, and, above +the almost indistinguishable village of Sassis, the Col de Riou, with +the Pic de Viscos beyond. Looking towards the Pont Napoléon, the Pic de +Bergons (6792 ft.) towers up on the left, and on the right may be +easily noted the toothed Pic du Lac Grand the Col d'Aubiste, and the +loftier Pic (8863 ft.) of the same name, besides a glimpse of pastures +and foaming cascades as well. There is very little in the chapel itself +except its history and its cold atmosphere. It is supposed to be an +exact copy of the ancient Hermitage of St. Peter, which formerly stood +on the same spot. The bones of the last good man, for whom "gaieties +had no attraction whatever," and who consequently shut himself up for +"years and years" in the dismal building, were collected by Napoleon +III.'s command, and buried under the statue erected in front. There is +a woman that calls herself the guardian (not angel) of the place, and +demands a small gratuity in exchange for any amount of unnecessary +talking; judging by her appearance, we decided she was _not_ a +hermit nor a particularly small eater either, though her stature was +decidedly diminutive. Two tracks lead from this hill to Luz. One +winding down on the left forms the branch route to St. Sauveur, the +other, to the right--which we took--passes the cemetery, and leaving +the new church in the same direction, leads to the back of the ancient +fane of the Templars, through the town. + +After transacting a little business at the post-office (there is none +at St. Sauveur except in the season), which stands in one of the +principal streets traversed on the route to Barèges, we returned to St. +Sauveur by another way. The ordinary short cut from Luz to St. Sauveur +crosses the bridge over the Gave leaving the Gavarnie road on the left, +and turning sharply up a short distance beyond the river, joins the +high road above the "Pharmacie Clavarie," near an ornamental pillar. +We, however, bore up the Gavarnie road till, reaching a cottage, we +pursued the narrow path obviously conducting to the river, over which a +wooden bridge--whence a pretty view can be obtained,--leads to the +Jardin à l'Anglaise. This garden, much frequented during the summer +months, brought us in turn, by means of zigzags and steps, close to our +hotel, and though it may be slightly longer than the "short cut," we +certainly found it prettier and more agreeable. + +There is one excursion from St. Sauveur, which is not very difficult +nor laborious, and which well repays the certain amount of exertion +that is at all times associated with ascents. This is the ascent of the +Pic de Bergons. Although we could tell before we started that the snow +would prevent us from reaching the summit, we nevertheless had hopes of +arriving very near it; and finding a beautiful day, as it were, staring +us in the face, we ordered round the horses and a somewhat aged guide, +and were in motion by ten o'clock. Reaching the further end of the Pont +Napoléon, we found the path striking off immediately before us, and the +work began. The gradient for several minutes rose rather sharply, and +as the road was anything but a pleasant or even one, the labour for the +horses was considerable; but they went very willingly, until, at our +arrival at a couple of cottages, we halted to give them a few minutes' +rest. + +Until then we had been winding up the face of the hill, but after +leaving the cottages, the track bearing round to the side brought us +above Luz, over which and the whole valley we had a splendid view. Not +far from this point, the path from Luz, _viâ_ Villenave, joined +in, but no improvement in the general unevenness and stoniness of it +was effected. With a barren gorge on our left, and the green pastures +with the snow-peaks of Bugaret and Maucapéra towering behind them, +straight before us, we followed the disagreeable zigzags, our horses +always on the very edge, as though courting our overthrow, till, +finding on reaching the "cabanes" some shepherds kindly and well +disposed, we repaired to the shelter that their cow-house wall +afforded, to eat our lunch. The meal was a success, as such meals, when +the victuals are good and the appetites hearty, usually are, and the +_vin ordinaire_, cooled to a pleasant extent with snow from a +neighbouring drift, tasted like nectar. But the same snow which was so +delightful in the claret, interfered sadly with our locomotion, and +having finished our luncheon, we had next to dispose of our horses, and +commence the rest of the ascent on foot. Striking straight up from the +hut, we soon attained a narrow track winding up the wooded hill to the +left, and without much difficulty or exertion, found ourselves within +view of St. Sauveur, and a great part of the mountains and valleys. +However, we were yet some way from the summit, or even the highest +attainable point (the summit being unattainable on account of snow), so +we pulled ourselves into form, and whispering to one another to have +"courage," we moved upwards again. A small rocky backbone was next +attained, but still the higher crests remained, and seemed to say, +"Excelsior." The guide got lazy, and preferred to study a little +geology to mounting any higher, so we left him to pursue his researches +and strode on. Between the next point, gained after some little work, +and the last crête below the actual summit, several banks of snow lay, +and rendered progress difficult. In two places a sharp decline, with no +chance of clutching anything in case of falling, presented itself to +dull our hopes, but by dint of using the alpenstocks well, and making +deep tracks in the semi-melting snow, we reached the desired crest, +with nothing but the white and inaccessible summit above. The view was +a very fine one, and fully justified all expectations, although our +lazy guide was effectually shut out from our gaze. The miniature town +of St. Sauveur looked like a tiny model, with every accessory that +could add to its charming position. To the left, high above us, the +mighty Barbe de Bouch (9624 ft.) stood out just below the clouds, in +which the still loftier and very stony Pic d'Ardiden (9804 ft.) was +partially hidden. Further in the same direction the familiar forms of +the Pics d'Aubiste and Litouèse, and further yet, the Tour and Casque +of the Gavarnie Cirque, stood out as snowy and as clear as the most +eager sightseer could wish. Over the town itself the Pic du Lacgrand, +and down the valley to the right, the Col de Riou and the Pic de +Viscos, were plainly visible; while the town of Argelès and the hills +beyond it, required no glass to point out their position at the end of +the splendid gorge. Over against Luz the Col d'Arbéousse and the Pic de +Néré (7880 ft.); with the Pic Bugaret (8859 ft.), the Maucapéra (8893 +ft.), and the massive Mont Arrouye (10,299 ft.), facing them, above the +hut where we had lunched, added their attractions to swell the beauty +of our view. + +When we thought we had really taken in all that we could, we did not +stay on our lofty perch much longer, fearing the result of our guide's +geological researches; however, we found him still fairly well, and +very little less lazy, so took him for a little jolting down a rather +"fast" bit, which not only woke him up, but brought us quickly down to +our shepherd's hut again. Partly riding and partly walking, the rest of +the descent was successfully accomplished, including the gathering of +gentians, bee orchids, mountain violets, and both _Polygalae_; +[Footnote: _Polygala rosea_ and _P. amara._] while Mr. Sydney +triumphed in the very laudable effort of showing the lazy guide how +things could be managed, by arriving at the foot of the mountain some +twenty minutes before him. A very short trot brought us to the hotel in +time for some half-past five tea, having taken seven and a half hours +over our trip, including the hour spent for lunch. + +Between the Hôtel de France and the Pont Napoléon a narrow path strikes +up to the right, almost opposite a large white house a short distance +beyond the church; this we found a very pleasant quarter of an hour's +walk, leading by an easy gradient to a good point of view. Box plants, +with their bright leaves here and there changing into a rich red, lined +the way, and many flowers, including gentians, added their charm. From +the rock at which we terminated our walks, a fine view of the Pic de +Bergons, two cascades, the gorge towards Gavarnie and St. Sauveur, the +Pont Napoléon, and a small defile on the immediate right, was our +reward. + +Another pleasant promenade and not a very long one, which we much +enjoyed, was to the villages of Sazos and Grust, in the direction of +the ascent of the Col de Riou and the Pic de Viscos. We followed the +high road down through the town, passing in turn the Roman-like and +commodious baths, the path leading to the Hontalade establishment on +the left, and the Pharmacie Claverie on the right; and just before the +branch route from Luz joins in, took the left track up the side of the +hill. Pretty views of the different valleys unfolded to our gaze as we +continued on our way, while a splendid vista of villages lay before us +when we reached the platform space on which an iron cross is erected, a +short way below Sazos. The village itself, as well as that of Grust, +which lies within easy distance above it, is a quaint, old-fashioned +place. The church is the chief attraction; in fact, immediately Miss +Blunt found herself within the ancient exterior portal, she demanded +paper and pencil, and although all the paper forthcoming was the back +of an envelope and a telegraph form, managed to turn out an efficient +representation of the old Roman fane. In exploring it afterwards at our +leisure, we were struck by several peculiarities which produced mingled +feelings. Inside the doorway, two curious flights of steps lead to the +narrow galleries and the belfry, the final flight being totally devoid +of either "sweetness" or light. Having examined the bells and heard the +clock strike three, we began the descent. In the darkness we certainly +did clutch a vertical rope, but could that simple act--we ask in a +whisper--have had such an unusual effect as causing the clock to repeat +its striking? For, whether or not, before we reached the ground, the +three strokes rang out again. The carving over the altar is good, and +the general effect of the whole church is likewise; but the supposed +model of the grotto at Lourdes, and the awful painting in the side +altar on the left, certainly do not add to its beauty. + +The children regarded us with inquisitive looks as we came away, but +seemed to wish to keep at a safe distance. Whether the double striking +of the clock had had a peculiar effect on them we did not, however, +wait to inquire, but after taking a drink at the fountain, proceeded on +our homeward way. + +Any one making a lengthened stay can find out plenty of similarly +enjoyable walks; in fact, one of St. Sauveur's chief charms lies in its +favourable situation for such pursuits. The neighbourhood is very rich +in flora, small jonquils, daffodils, oxslips, hyacinths, violets, +_polygala, potentilla_, anemones, _Ramondia pyrenaïca, Primula +farinosa,_ large and small gentians, _linaria,_ and bee orchids +being among the easiest to find. + +Before we started on the great drive to Luchon, we successfully +accomplished a delightful day's outing to Gavarnie, but as it is full +of interest and majesty, we give it a chapter to itself. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +GAVARNIE. + +A "falling glass"--The wonderful echo--Cascade Lassariou--Sia and its +bridge--Pont de Desdouroucat--"Changing scenes"--Bugaret torrent--The +Piméné--Bué--Gèdre--Brêche de Roland in the distance--The +"Grotto"--Scenery at fivepence per head--Daffodils--Lofty +summits--Cascade d'Arroudet--Chaos--Valley of the "Ten Thousand Rocks," +Amoy--A dirty avalanche--The Sugar-loaf--Travellers' troubles +--Importunate females--Hôtel des Voyageurs--Poc--Guide or no +guide--Chute de Lapaca--The guardian summits of the Cirque--Cascade du +Marboré--Chandelles du Marboré--The Cirque--Its marvellous +beauty--Reluctantly returning--"The Guide's Auction"--"Two women +enough for a market, and three for a fair"--A Yankee tale--Sketching +and flowers--Tempers and appetites. + + +There is no excursion from Luz or St. Sauveur for which it is so +necessary to have a fine day, or which is so wonderfully unique, as +that to the Cirque of Gavarnie. We were forced to wait several days; +the barometer always, stupidly enough, wanting to fall, until on the +third day of the moon it slowly began to rise, and gave us hopes for a +start on the following morning. The following morning arrived, and with +it a heavy fall of snow, decking the hills quite low down with a white +mantle, and gloomily screening the view. + +However, about nine o'clock, the sun burst forth, the clouds rose, the +blue sky appeared, and we felt that our opportunity had come. The lunch +and the landau, with four horses, were ordered for ten o'clock, and at +10.15 we were on our way. Through the town, past the church and over +the fine Pont Napoléon we went, our hearts--eager to appreciate +--finding no lack of food. + +Keeping along the base of the Pic de Bergons, with the Pic du Lac Grand +rivalling it on the other side of the defile, we soon sighted the chasm +and cascade of Rioumaou on our left, and reached the Pas de l'Echelle. +At 1 metre 50 centimetres, or 43/4 feet, from the extremity of the +ornamental facing which marks the place, we pulled up, to try the +magnificent echo, and were in no way disappointed. Our voices came back +particularly clearly, but from the coach-box the sound was stronger. On +ahead again, still by the base of the Pic de Bergons, with the mighty +Col and Pic d'Aubiste (8863 ft.) majestic across the river; till, at +the foot of the Pic, where the sparkling Cascade de Lassariou comes +tumbling down, the wretched hamlet of Sia, with its "quatre moulins" +and very fine bridge, broke into view. Traversing the Pont de +Sia--distant about three miles from Luz and built when the new road was +made two years ago--we kept the right side of the Gave, and, with the +Pic de Litouèse towering above us, reached the Pont de Desdouroucat (4 +3/8 miles), and again passed to the opposite bank, leaving the remains +of the old route on the side whence we came. The sky was clearing more +and more, and before us, over Gavarnie, it was one pure expanse of +blue. The gorge was very wild, but with a wildness of piled-up crags +and blackened sides that the beautiful winding river and the spring +tints helped to beautify and subdue. Presently the massive Brada, up +the grand Gorge de Bacheviron, came in sight on our left, and as we +passed the insignificant hamlet of Pragnères (43/4 miles), where the +torrent of Bugaret dashes down into the Gave, the Brada looked more +massive still. Thus it continued all along the route, every bend of the +road bringing something new--whether a cascade, a valley, or a lofty +peak, always something to claim attention and praise. At such a bend, +shortly after quitting Pragnères, the great snow-crowned Piméné (9193 +ft.) seemed to bar the way; while at another, the hamlet of Bué and the +Col de Bué appeared on the right, and at another, again, Mont Ferrat +(10,575 ft.), up the Héas valley on the left. Not very much further, +when bending into Gèdre, we obtained a splendid glimpse of La Tour and +La Casque du Marboré and the Brêche de Roland. Gèdre (8 miles), like +all the rest of the villages or hamlets in the vicinity, is a +miserable, poverty-stricken-looking place, but with picturesque +surroundings. It is a good centre for numerous excursions--notably that +to the Cirque de Troumouse--and possesses an excellent botanist as +well as a celebrated grotto. + +[Footnote: The grotto's notoriety is gained, perhaps, by its imposture; +it is in reality no grotto, but a very pretty bit of scenery +nevertheless, on a fine day.] + +Stopping at the house by the bridge, we were escorted by the good woman +into her garden and down some steps to a platform, whence the so-called +grotto was to be surveyed. It is a very picturesque spot. The lofty +walls of perpendicular rock, the overhanging bushes and flowers, the +trees above, the field beyond, and the blue water of the Gave de Héas +foaming beneath, are charming enough, with the aid of rays of sunlight, +to make the spot famous, and the good woman chuckle as she pockets the +half-franc per head. + +[Illustration: THE VILLAGE OF GÈDRE.] + +Starting again, we commenced the zigzag ascent past the church--the +road winding among fields golden with daffodils, mingling here and +there with the lovely blue of the gentians and the pink _Primula +farinosa_--towards the base of the Coumelie, the mule-path to the +Cirque de Troumouse leading through a field above us, as we reached the +zigzag's top. Still gently ascending round the foot of the Coumelie, +the pointed summit of the lofty Taillon (10,323 ft.) came into view +ahead, with the grandiose Campbieil (10,418 ft.) up the Héas valley; +and the Pic de Saugué immediately above on the right, from whose height +the splendid Cascade d'Arroudet, dashing past the shepherds' cottages, +launches its foaming showers into the river below. A few more graceful +curvings of the road and we entered the region so aptly termed "Chaos." +Attributed to an earthquake at the end of the fourteenth century, +rightly or wrongly, the fact nevertheless remains that one of the huge +buttresses of the Coumelie became detached from the main summit, and +dashed down in enormous blocks to the valley below. There they lie, the +road passing between, in the wildest and most indescribable confusion. +Here a heap piled one above another, there a mighty shoulder split in +twain by a conical fragment which rests in the breach that it made; +some towering above the road, others blocking the river below, a few +isolated and many half-buried; but all combining to form as wild and +wonderful a chaos as the eye could wish to gaze on, but which the pen +must fail to describe. Far away on the shores of China, at the port of +Amoy, is another scene which, though it must yield the palm to this, is +nevertheless one of a similarly wild nature. The "Valley of the Ten +Thousand Rocks," as the spot is called, in the midst of which stands a +joss-house (or temple), may be reached in a pleasant walk from the +harbour of Amoy, by way of the wonderful Rocking Stone, and along paths +lined with aloes and cacti. There the grass grows between the confusion +of boulders, and the Chinamen's incense ascends to the blue sky; but +these points of difference from the Chaos of Gavarnie, though tending +to subdue part of the barren wildness, nevertheless still leave a +resemblance between the two scenes that is worthy of record. + +[Illustration] + +Leaving this "boulder" region behind us, we passed through a huge +avalanche that stood in frozen filthiness far above the carriage on +each side of the road, while immediately over us on the left rose the +mountain from which it had come--rightly named the Sugar-loaf--and +opposite, on the right, the serrated summit of the Soum de Secugnac +(8442 ft.). + +At this point one of the many nuisances which ought to be classed under +the head of "Travellers' Troubles," commenced. In the distance, but +coming swiftly towards us, or rather as swiftly as a broken-winded, +raw-boned, jolting apology-for-a-horse would allow, was _a_ woman, +and alas! in her train were several others; a few on or with donkeys, +but more on foot. In vain we told them that we would engage no donkeys +at all, and no horses till we reached our destination; in vain we bade +them allow us to "pursue the even tenor of our way" in peace, and hush +their high soprano tones. It was one perpetual babble in praise of +their horses, their donkeys, and their capabilities as guides, with the +constant repetition of the names of the surrounding peaks, which we +already knew perfectly well. When we reached the gorge which opens up +on the right, as though the earth had been split by some mighty shock, +and through which the majestic Vignemale (10,821 ft.) was perfectly +visible, the storm of voices directing our attention to the sight was +as loud as it was unsolicited. But happily we were then close to +Gavarnie, and crossing the bridge with a momentary glimpse at the +Cirque, we drew up at the door of the Hôtel des Voyageurs. + +After lunching and engaging our steeds, with an intelligent guide, who +answered to the euphonious name of "Poc," we left the greatly +disappointed donkey women still making a terrible clamour, and started +for the Cirque. + +As far as finding out the proper route goes, and that is a long way, no +guide whatever is required, but in order to learn the names of the +various peaks and other interesting facts, it is distinctly necessary +to have one, unless the traveller possesses a very elaborate plan of +the vicinity. + +Leaving the new bridge to the left, as well as a very ancient one, and +the plashing fall known as the "Chute de Lapaca," we turned round in +the opposite direction, and passing the "Hôtel de la Cascade" and a +wooden hut, again turned to the left, down what, though an execrable +road, led, nevertheless, to the object of our desires. At this turn the +Pic d'Aspé reared above us on the right, succeeded by barren hills +covered with loose stones, but as we proceeded, the famous central +excursion--the Piméné (9193 ft.)--came in sight on the opposite side, +followed by the Brêche d'Allanz, the Pic Rouge de Pailla (9107 ft.), +Pic d'Astazou (10,106 ft.), the Cylindre (10,916 ft), and even the +Marboré (9964 ft.) itself. + +Between the Marboré and the Epaule de Marboré (10673 ft.), nearer the +centre of the Cirque, the celebrated Cascade du Marboré, (1380 ft. in +height) dashes during the warmer months. The curious summits known as +La Tour (9902 ft.) and La Casque (9862 ft.), almost equidistant from +the centre of the Cirque, on opposite sides, stood clearly before us, +with the snow lying below each in the serrated shapes which give rise +to the term "Chandelles du Marboré." The Brêche de Roland was--as it +always is from this view--invisible, hidden behind the Pic de Sarradets +(8993 ft.); but the Fausse Brêche beyond, and more to the right the +magnificent Taillon (10,323 ft.), and the Pic de Gabiétou, with the +Port de Gavarnie--a peculiar shoulder-like rock, below them +both--filled up the semicircle in all its wonderful entirety. When at +last we reached the point whence the whole can be viewed to most +advantage, we did not require the assertion of the guide that we were +in enjoyment of one of the best days of the year, to increase our +admiration and delight. + +The amphitheatre, standing before us like the ruins of some mighty +arena, in which the throngs of eager men and women and the blood of the +dying gladiator had long given place to the purifying snow; the summits +around uplifted towards the blue sky; the cascade, no longer dashing as +full of life and hope, but frozen in its course and hanging in icicles +between the rocks; the few uncovered crags scattered here and there, +relieving the dazzling whiteness of the "glace éternelle"; the sparse +trees down the outer slopes struggling to free themselves from their +winter cloak; the cloud of frost scintillating in the sunlight as a +mass of loosened snow rushed into the depths below;--was not such a +scene as this, presented to our gaze in unveiled splendour, more than +sufficient to bewilder in the intensity of its majesty and loveliness? + +Yet even this was not all. The silence, the solemn and perfect silence, +that reigned over the whole, only broken by the dull sound of the +falling avalanche or the shrill voice of the restless crow, was so +evident and so powerful, and combined so impressively with the +marvellous beauty of the surroundings, that the heart could not fail to +recognise the sublimity of Nature and the omnipotence of Nature's God! + +We stayed there for a long time, and with great reluctance turned our +horses' heads from the scene; while even when we had done so, we +stopped at nearly every bend of the road for another look. + +[Illustration: THE CIRQUE OF GAVARNIE (IN SUMMER).] + +The exact distance from the hotel to the extreme end of the Cirque is +calculated at 33/4 miles, but we traversed little more than two-thirds +of that distance, on account of the depth of the avalanches, which were +then melting far too quickly to allow of dry walking any further. + +Arriving again at the hotel, the chatter of the women over some new +arrivals was as deafening as ever. Our good guide Poc considered it was +not to be borne any longer, so having counted the women and their +asses, he cleared a space in preparation for a mock sale at which they +were all to be put up, and having got us in front as make-believe +purchasers, proceeded with the business, which we called + + "THE GUIDE'S AUCTION." + + This way, sirs, this way! Will you please to walk up? + The auction I'm ready to start: + I'm instructed to sell all these valuable lots, + And the bidding I hope will be smart. + + You see by the catalogue, forty clear lots-- + Thirty women; ten asses; some small. + To proceed then, we'll take them, sirs, just as they are, + Say forty fine donkeys in all. + + They've plenty of sinew, and as to their voice, + I think about that you well know. + The first lot then, gents; shall we say fifteen francs? + Well then, ten; but that's rather too low. + + In our country for ladies we've heaps of respect, + But we've fully enough and to spare; + And we know that "two women a market will make, + And that three are enough for a fair."[1] + + + * * * * * + + Now then, gents, please be sharp! No advance? No advance? + The candle[2] burns fast to the end. + Ten francs for this wonderful native--ten francs! + Why, surely, that's nothing to spend! + + No bidding? Good gracious! Why what shall I do + To oblige you? I'll class them as one: + Now what do you say for the whole forty lots? + Make a bid, sirs, I want to have done. + + Fifty francs for the lot; see the candle's nigh out: + Fifty francs, take them all as they rise. + What! No one will buy them? Alas! I must say + You're all most uncommonly wise. + + They clamour and chatter the whole of the day, + I believe they snore loudly at night; + Oh, if only a Barnum would take them away, + You don't know how I'd dance with delight! + +[Footnote 1: His exact words were, "Dans mon pays, monsieur, nous +disons qu'il faut trois femmes pour faire une foire, et deux pour un +marché."] + +[Footnote 2: Alluding to the custom in France of burning bits of candle +to denote the time in which the bidding may proceed; usually when the +third piece goes out the bidding for the special lot is finished, and +the next is proceeded with.] + +This last verse was very easy to understand, as the women are always +anxious to obtain occupation for a lesser remuneration[1] than the +qualified guides, who naturally dislike this interference between them +and their earnings, although no bad feeling really exists on the +matter. + +[Footnote 1: There is a good tale told, _à propos_ of this, of a +gentleman in San Francisco who wanted some wood chopped. An American +offered to do it for a dollar, but a Chinaman asked only half. The +gentleman, thinking it best to help his own countryman, gave the Yankee +the job; but happening to pass the yard during the day, he found the +Chinaman busily at work. "Hullo!" cried he, "I didn't give the job to +you. Who told you to cut this wood?" "Melican man" (American man), +responded the pigtailer. "And how much is he paying you?" "Hap dollar," +replied the Celestial. And the swell went away resolved never to help +his countryman again.] + +After an enjoyable kettledrum, the tea being our own and made under +personal supervision, Miss Blunt perched herself on a hillock to +sketch, and Mr. Sydney explored the neighbourhood for flowers, of which +gentians were the principal object of his search. Both having in a +certain degree attained their ends, we started again at half-past four, +and after a pleasant drive, which lasted two hours instead of +three--the time occupied in coming--we reached our quarters in the best +of tempers and not with the worst of appetites. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +FROM LUZ AND ST. SAUVEUR TO BAGNÈRES DE LUCHON. + +A smiling valley--Lourdes again--The chapel in the crypt--St. Peter's +statue--Burnished toes--Solemn quietude--Preparing for the great +pilgrimage--"Ornamented" crosses--Mr. Sydney's new vocation, "guide, +philosopher, and friend"--Bigorre again--An open-air concert +--Harmonious echoes--Paying through the nose--The fête at +Payole--Sport à la française--Costumes--The view from the Col d'Aspin-- +Arreau--Quaint houses--La Chapelle de St. Exupère--A whining +"gardien"--Eglise de Notre Dame--The River Neste--Hôtel de +France--Bordères--Avajan--Louderville--Oxslips and cowslips--Wild +narcissus--Col de Peyresourde--The view--Garin--Cazaux--St. +Aventin--Lovely avenues--Our destination. + + +With a morning as lovely as the day of our arrival had been dreary, we +left at 9.15 for Bagnères de Bigorre, the first part of our long drive. +The valley, more fully clothed than it was a week ago, looked so fresh +in the warm sunlight, with the river winding along, that we felt very +loath to leave. The gorge below, all the way to Pierrefitte, added its +share of beauty, and the graceful white heath growing up its sides +loaded the air with a sweet scent. The wide expanse of the Argelès +valley, with the busy farmers ploughing, sowing, or cutting the heavy +clover crop; the lazy oxen ever patiently plodding beneath their heavy +burdens; the Château de Beaucens--where the orchids grow--perched up on +the hillside; the surrounding peaks throwing off their snowy garb; and +the beautiful young leaves and tints, everywhere mingling with the +brightness of the flowers blooming on the slopes or amid the waving +grasses, made a scene as picturesque as it was charming. + +Compared with the scenery so far, the remainder of the drive to +Lourdes, which we reached in three hours from the time of starting, +though full of many pleasant corners in which the river heightened the +effect, was nevertheless not so fine; but Lourdes itself looked more +attractive than on our former visit. After lunch, while the horses were +resting, we drove in a local milord [Footnote: A kind of victoria.] to +the church, as we had omitted before to visit the chapel built in the +crypt underneath. In the entrance is the fine bronze statue of St Peter +clasping the key, similar to the one in Rome both in size and in the +highly-burnished appearance of the toes of the right foot, for which +latter the affectionate pilgrims are answerable. On either side of the +statue a corridor lined with marble tablets--presented by "grateful" +individuals in acknowledgment of cures and cleansings--and dotted with +confessional boxes, leads down to the chapel. The repulsive gaudiness +of the tinsel display in the church above it is almost absent here, and +though the same exaltation of the Virgin over our Saviour is manifest, +yet otherwise this chapel, with its vaulted roof and its quietude, +seems far more fitted for meditation and prayer. + +Taking the easy gradient at the west end of the church, between the +grassy slopes planted with lilacs and other shrubs and trees, we +arrived at the grotto. A huge platform was in course of erection, for +the great pilgrimage expected from England in about a week, and the +noise of the workmen combined with the sparse gathering of +"worshippers" detracted greatly from the former pitiable solemnity of +the scene, though the stand of candles was flaring with light, and the +crutches, in their horrid rows, were still there. + +We left Lourdes again at three o'clock, the sun still very warm, as the +lazy attitudes of the peasants working in the fields attested; and, +passing several crosses at the roadside--"ornamented" with pincers, +hammer, nails, and sword, with a bantam cock on the top--reached the +base of the col (600 feet high) which separates the respective basins +of the Adour and the Echez. Half-way up the hill we discovered Mr. +Sydney, who had walked on ahead, very busy with a team of oxen, towards +which, having encountered them without a driver, he had taken upon +himself to act as "guide, philosopher, and friend"; and by dint of +great application of his umbrella, open and shut, in the last-mentioned +capacity, he brought them to, and kept them at, a standstill by the +side of the road till the carriage passed. + +From the top of the hill we enjoyed an extensive view, the Pic du Midi +de Bigorre standing out wonderfully clear. Descending again, we joined +the Tarbes road crowded with market carts, and leaving the village of +Montgaillard on the left, duly arrived at Bagnères de Bigorre, where we +were received with open arms by Monsieur and Madame Bourdette. + +The morrow being Sunday, was spent in resting, the magnificent weather +still continuing. The trees on the Coustous and the different hills +around were at length well covered with foliage, and gave a prettier +appearance to the town, which the ever-flowing streams by the +roadsides greatly added to. In the evening the Orphéon (or local Choral +Society) gave an open-air concert from the roof of one of the Coustous +cafés. A tremendous crowd of some 2000 persons had gathered under the +trees to listen, and kept perfectly still while the songs proceeded. +The solos were not particularly wonderful, but the beautiful blending +of the voices in the Pyrenean part-songs was a very great treat, and +the sounds, floating deliciously away on the soft evening air, could be +heard like some whispering echo for a long distance. + +[Illustration: ] + +We had some difficulty in arranging for a carriage, on the following +day, for Luchon, as a great number had been engaged for the fête at +Payole, and for those not yet taken high prices--considering the time +of year--were asked. Not wishing, however, to lose a day, we settled +for a landau and three horses to do the journey in two days--for 110 +francs, including _pourboire_--stopping the night at Arreau. The +day broke, like its predecessors, perfectly fine, and at 10.30 we made +our adieus to Bigorre, and were on our way. + +The scenery all the way to Payole was more charming than when we drove +there [Footnote: See pages 40-44.] previously, and on our arrival at +the Hôtel de la Poste there was a considerable difference visible +there. The courtyard was filled with carriages, and a busy throng +buzzed about the doors, while the windows were occupied by a variety of +forms. Having with great difficulty secured utensils, we unearthed the +lunch, and proceeded with our meal at a side-table. The participators +in the fête, who were all men, occupied the centre table, and others +were at the side. The noise they made was not appetising, and though +they mixed wines considerably, their jokes did not improve; yet the +scene was a very typical one of "Frenchmen out for a holiday." After +our repast, we adjourned to see the fête, and a wonderful treat it was! +Tame rabbits and fowls, fastened to a stake driven into the hillside, +some 90 to 100 yards from the road, were the targets, at which a +perpetual round of shots soon commenced. Double-barrelled guns loaded +with ball were the usual weapons; one or two single-barrelled pieces +and a rifle or two being occasionally seen. + +The marksmen seemed peculiarly poor ones, from the country lad, or the +genuine 'Arry, with huge check clothes, to the moustached "masher," +with tight trousers and rounded jacket. About one "poulet" in fifty +shots succumbed, and a white rabbit's dismissal was received with loud +acclamations. + +At 2.30, exactly two hours after our arrival, we were off again, and +soon entered the pine forest. It looked very bonny in the bright +sunlight, while the view from the Col d'Aspin was singularly +felicitous. Not a cloud anywhere. The mighty Posets, the Pic d'Arbizon, +and the other snow-crowned heights, softened by distance and beautified +by the tints in the foreground, stood out against the azure sky in all +their splendour. + +The Aure valley, as we descended, and the tiny hamlet of Aspin, looked +very peaceful and lovely; in fact, the whole of the extensive +scene--considered one of the finest to be enjoyed by driving in the +Pyrenees--seemed to spread out its charms before us. + +Winding down the splendid road, Arreau was soon in view, and at 4.30 we +drove under the portico of the Hôtel de France, somewhat dusty, but +wholly pleased. With some time to spare before dinner, we set out to +explore this wonderfully quaint, and--though dirty--strikingly +picturesque old town. A road leads from the courtyard of the hotel +straight to the very ancient-looking market-place and the river, at +which point the latter is crossed by a very old wooden bridge. +Traversing this, and passing several curious houses with verandahs +reaching over the street, we found ourselves at the ancient Chapelle de +St. Exupère, built during the 9th and 10th centuries, but now restored. +The windows are of fine stained glass, and the view from the belfry +tower, over the peculiar old town--with its curious turrets and roofs, +whose best days have long passed--is worth the somewhat arduous mount +to get to it. The peasant girl who stands inside the door, and in a +sing-song voice that never varies mixes up saints, fathers, towns, +corn, potatoes, bells, and "quelque chose pour le gardien," in her +rigmarole, was the least attractive adjunct of the venerable pile! + +Down a little alley, across the river, directly opposite the church, +Miss Blunt discovered a suitable spot for a sketch, [Footnote: +Unhappily this sketch was afterwards lost, so cannot be reproduced] and +on the production of materials and a chair from a neighbouring grocer's +she set to work, and in spite of the nearness--we might say the "too +odoriferous nearness "--of a dust-heap, a drain, and a swarm of midges, +she gallantly pursued her task till it reached a highly satisfactory +termination. + +Leaving the "ambrosial spot" (Jupiter save us!) we followed the road +leading past the old market-place at right angles to the wooden bridge, +and reached the church of Notre Dame. Though more modern than the +"Chapelle," it is at least three centuries old, having been built on +the ruins of the one originally erected in the 12th century. The wooden +reredos behind the altar, and other wooden carvings, seemed especially +good, but the curé, jingling a bunch of keys, preceded by an abbé, +seemed anxious to see us depart; so we prematurely left. Strolling back +through the town, and over the stone bridge that spans the Neste, we +walked for a short distance on the other side, and then past the +post-office and the Hôtel du Midi, to our own quarters for dinner. The +Hôtel de France, as it is called, is the best in Arreau, but is +nevertheless not much more than a fairly large country inn. The rooms +are very clean, and the food good, but the arrangements are somewhat +primitive; yet for all this we were very well satisfied on the whole, +though the necessity of starting at nine o'clock next morning prevented +us indulging in rhapsodies. + +When we left the courtyard and passed through the back part of the town +by the old church, the sky was still of the same lovely hue, though +unhappily there was hardly a breath of wind. Notwithstanding that +Arreau is charmingly placed, and that the trees were fairly forward +there, we soon found at a very slight increase of altitude that this +was not to last; in fact, almost at once after passing Bordères (2-1/4 +miles)--an old village with a castle of Jean V., a change was +apparent. Two miles further brought us to the insignificant hamlet of +Avajan, and another three of continual ascent to the outskirts of +Louderville (3280 ft.), with its old watch-tower (14th cent.) and cool +cascade. Here we had a fine view of the valley below, and passed fields +covered with oxslips, cowslips, and other flowers; while lower down, +meadow after meadow was whitened by the lovely wild narcissus. +Following at a very easy pace the long zigzags (two hours and a half +from Arreau), we reached the highest point of the road at the Port or +Col de Peyresourde [Footnote: 35 miles from Bigorre, n. from Arreau.] +(5070 ft), whence the view, though much more limited than that from the +Col d'Aspin, extends over the valleys of Louron and Arboust, and many +snow-peaks as well. + +As we descended the splendid winding road at a rattling pace, with the +slipper on the wheel, we quickly left barren trees and slopes behind, +and even at Garin, that curious village built among the rocks, the +silver birches were opening their leaves. Passing in turn the villages +of Cazaux, with its 12th century church, and St. Aventin, with its +double-towered church of a similar date, also, we sped under most +splendid avenues of sycamore, elm, lime, and ash, past dashing streams +and bright flower-clothed slopes--always descending--till we entered +Luchon: Luchon surrounded by magnificent hills, Luchon guarded by the +distant but ever-majestic snow summits, Luchon bathed in the scent of +lilac and other sweets, Luchon cooled and beautified by avenues and +squares of bright trees, and by gardens filled with the loveliest of +shrubs and flowers. Such was the Luchon presented to us as we drove +through the splendid streets and reached our hotel. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +BAGNÈRES DE LUCHON. + +The bathing establishment and its surroundings--The lovely +_Allées_--Montauban church and cascade--The Villa Russe and its +genial host--Various excursions--Orphanage of Notre Dame de Rocher--The +Vallée du Lys--The Rue d'Enfer and cascades--A lively scene--The view +from Superbagnères--Loading wood--"The Oxen's Appeal"--Visit to the +Orphanage--A "holy" relic--To Bosost--St. Mamet--"A Stumbling-block" +--Cascade of Sidonie--Horse tricks and jockey dodges--Lizards in +flight--Fashion on a donkey--On the Portillon 'twixt France and +Spain--The Valley of Aran--Snug Bosost--A curious inn--Children with +artistic bent--A bright pathway--Missing much, but thankful still. + + +The most delightful of weather throughout our stay doubtless added +greatly to our enjoyment of Luchon, and our willingness to agree with +its title as "The Pearl of the Pyrenees "; and, in fact, to all people +but those who love dust, noise, and fashion, this month of May is the +pleasantest time of the year to go, see, and be happy. + +The great bathing establishment, situated as it is in a lovely garden +(Quinconces) with a charming lake overhung with the graceful weeping +willows, and under the wooded sides of Superbagnères, seems to invite +one to enter and bathe. When we looked in, very little business was +going on, and one of the attendants, in the hope of receiving a small +coin, was nothing loath to show us round. + +It is the largest and most efficiently arranged of all the Pyrenean +establishments, and can accommodate over 200 people at the same time; +"douche" baths, swimming baths, ordinary baths, rooms for inhaling, +rooms for "pulverisation," seemed to succeed one another with unending +rapidity, as we followed our guide down long corridors or up flights of +stairs; and when at last it was all over, and he had quietly and +contentedly pocketed his coin, we felt as though we had been taking +quite a long walk. + +[Illustration: "THE 'PEARL' IN THE PEERLESS VALLEY."] + +The Allée d'Etigny--the principal street--and all the other +_allées_, notably the Allée des Bains, make most delightful +promenades, even in the heat of the day, so delightful is the shade +afforded by the trees that line the way on either side. To walk from +the "Thermes" along the Allée des Bains, turning into the Casino +gardens, or continuing further--leaving the "Chute de la Pique" on the +right--along the riverside till the road to Montauban cuts it at right +angles, is a most delicious evening stroll. We prolonged this, by +taking the road in question between the poplars up to the village of +Montauban itself; but found more interest in the beautiful new church +than in the waterfall at the back of the village, which is gained by +passing through the good cure's garden, and for which privilege half a +franc is charged. The church, of white stone, very symmetrically built +and of quite a different architecture from the usual French types, +stands out imposingly at the entrance to the village, backed up by the +tree-clad hills and the cottages beyond. The interior is most chaste +and tasteful, as different from the usual Roman Catholic interior as is +the outside from the general exterior, the texts on the pillars near +the entrance being quite an unusual feature. Whether the decoration was +not yet finished, and the tinsel therefore not yet arrived, we could +not learn; but are afraid it is only too probable, as the church, as it +stood, might have been one of our own; for even the gilt pulpit +harmonised so well with the rest, that it did not detract from the +religious and solemn effect, while the light through the +finely-coloured windows threw a softening glimmer over all. + +[Illustration: THE CHURCH OF MONTAUBAN.] + +We returned by a short cut through the fields on the left and the +garden of the Villa Russe, whose owner, "charmant et gentil," not only +showed us all over, but very kindly invited us to a strawberry feast a +month hence--which sorrowfully we had to decline--as well as making us +free of his garden and fields, the latter being filled with the +sweet-scented narcissus. + +The Hôtel Canton, in which we were staying, was very conveniently +situated and comfortable. While standing in a quiet part of the Rue +d'Espagne it was close to the post-office and casino on the one hand, +and the bathing establishment and the Jardin des Quinconces on the +other. Moreover, the stables of Jean Sanson--a most excellent guide for +all excursions--were close at hand, and his horses would be difficult +to beat; while his son Luis is experienced in all trips and ascents, +not only in the vicinity, but over a large part of the Pyrenees. + +The new casino, barely three years old, is situated in as charming a +quarter as could well be imagined, for besides possessing a finely +laid-out garden with many fine shrubs and trees, it is bounded by three +beautiful _allées_ as well. As previously mentioned, it can be +gained by the Allée des Bains, but the most direct way to the building +itself, from our hotel, was by keeping to the right along the Rue +d'Espagne and the narrow street beyond (the post-office being to the +left), opposite which a side entrance leads to the imposing edifice. + +The three most popular excursions from Luchon are those to the Port de +Venasque, the mountain pass at the head of the Pique Valley; the Vallée +du Lys and the Cascades; and thirdly, the ascent of Superbagnères. + +The greatest of all, and in truth the greatest in the Pyrenees, is the +ascension of the Pic de Nethou (11,170 ft.), the highest of the range, +and its two great buttresses, the Pics Maladetta (10,867 ft.) and +Milieu (11,044 ft). None but experienced mountaineers, with the most +experienced guides, attempt this ascent, which is attended with much +danger; but there are many other delightful trips in the vicinity, +including a visit to the Spanish village of Bosost; up the Aran valley +to Viella; a drive to the picturesquely-placed St. Béat, or to the old +Roman town of St. Bertrand de Comminges. + +Pleasant walks and drives are probably more numerous from Luchon than +from any other Pyrenean resort, and though we were rather too early in +the year for mountain climbing, the fine weather enabled us to enjoy +several other outings, which we will describe in turn. + +The Vallée du Lys and the Rue d'Enfer make an agreeable picnic, either +in a carriage as far as the "Cabanes du Lys" (6-1/4 miles), and then +horses for the other 3-3/4 miles up to the abyss, the cascades, and the +Rue d'Enfer, or on horseback all the way. We preferred the latter, and +taking a good lunch in the saddle-bags, made a start at the favoured +hour of ten. Under the lee of the Quinconces, past the Hôtel Richelieu, +Villa Richelieu, and the elevated Villa Marguerite, and we were fairly +on our way, the air sweetly laden with the scent from the flower-decked +fields and the lilac-trees in the gardens. + +When we passed the little road on the left leading to the Orphanage of +Notre Dame du Rocher, the lilac-scent was very strong; and the position +of the various buildings in connection with the institution seemed so +attractive that we determined to take a stroll there later on. Pursuing +our way, with the restored ruin of the Castelvieil above us on its +"monticule" overlooking the Orphanage, we were soon in a narrower part +of the valley, with the wooded slopes on either side. Then we crossed +the river to the left bank, which we followed until reaching the point +where the road to the Hospice and the Port de Venasque led to the left, +and ours crossed the river by a neat bridge (the Pont de Ravi) to the +right bank again. A little beyond this, the route for Superbagnères +--which we hoped to take another day--struck off among the +trees on the right of the road, which in turn gradually bent in the +same direction all up the beautiful Lys valley, till it again curved in +the opposite direction and arrived at the base of the Cascades, where +there is a fair inn (Auberge du Lys).[Footnote: Only in summer.] From +thence the road forks, but the track to the left is the better of the +two, at any rate if on foot, and by it--after fifteen minutes' +labour--the foot of the Cascade d'Enfer is reached; and the Pont +d'Arrougé in another quarter of an hour. A similar length of time is +still necessary to reach a small tower whence a good view of the +Gouffre d'Enfer and the Pont de Nadie, above it, can be enjoyed. This +tower is about a mile distant from the foot of the lowest fall. The +other cascade (the Cascade du Coeur) is not a very difficult twenty +minutes' walk by a path that leads through the trees to Lac Vert, and +as there is a capital inn there (later in the season), we think that +this would be a good spot for lunch. Even as it was, we managed to +enjoy ours pretty well, for fresh air and sunshine are good appetisers, +and the ride had added its effect besides. The return ride in the +afternoon, when the sun was commencing to decline a little, was very +pleasant, and the snow-covered Port de Venasque, so beautiful in its +whiteness, and yet for the same reason quite inaccessible, looked very +lovely when tinged with the crimson hue that the setting sun shot o'er +it, as we arrived in Luchon again. + +[Illustration: THE RUE D'ENFER AND CASCADES.] + +The following morning broke beautifully fine, and Luis Sanson was at +the door punctually at seven, with the horses for our trip up to +Superbagnères. + +The saddle-bags were again filled, and away we went, the horses--still +so fresh--being eager for a canter in the fresh morning air. In summer +the ascent is usually made by St. Aventin and the Granges de Gouron, in +which case the road towards the Col de Peyresourde is followed as far +as St. Aventin, and thence a way leading to the left; but we were too +early for that route, as an avalanche had only lately fallen, so were +obliged to go and return by the route used in the season for the return +only, viz., by the "Pont de Ravi" up the Vallée de la Pique. Having +reached the bridge and taken the path indicated by the sign-board on +the right, we were soon among the trees, which lent a very welcome +shade from the increasing heat, which even at this early hour (7.40 +A.M.) the glorious Sol was not ashamed to diffuse. + +At every fresh turn the strokes of the axe rang through the wood, +mingled with the sound of voices, and after making considerable +progress--during which our guide narrated incidents in his career as +hunter, guide, and jockey--we arrived in view of a very lively scene. +Workmen busy with the hatchet, the saw, and the plane, in the +foreground; others in the rear occupied with mortar and stones, +building a small but substantial house; a cart with oxen lazily +waiting, like Mr. Micawber, for "something to turn up"; a few superior +individuals in deep consultation, and the irrepressible sun struggling +through the beeches and pines to have "his finger in the pie"--such was +the scene we saw, but soon left behind. After this the good broad +carriage-road soon came to an end, and the easy gradient changed to a +steep path among a grove of nothing but beeches, which emerged later on +the slope of a somewhat bare and stony hill dotted with a few gentians. +The view improved with nearly every step, growing magnificently vast; +and when at length we reached the summit, or rather a mound a few feet +lower, but equally good as a point of sight (for the summit was covered +with snow), we gazed on as grand an expanse of mountains and +tree-clothed valleys as imagination could picture in the most lofty of +its lofty flights. + +[Illustration: ON THE ROAD TO SUPERBAGNÈRES.] + +Probably but few people will be disposed to deny that, considering the +comparatively small amount of labour necessary to attain the summit, it +is more than amply compensated for; and, when the height of +Superbagnères--which is only 5,900 ft.--is taken into account, such a +grand sight is almost unique. For over two-thirds of a circle the chain +of peaks continues, extending from the Céciré of Superbagnères to the +Céciré [Footnote 1: We have only the guide's authority for this name +here.] above Bosost, and even beyond. Beginning with the nearest, the +Céciré (8,025 ft.) of Superbagnères, then come the Pêne de Montarqué +(9685 ft.), and the cone-shaped Quairat (10,037 ft.), followed by the +huge glacier of Crabioules, which, in spite of its eternal snow, +supplies the various cascades in the Rue d'Enfer that flow into the Lys +valley. Above rise up the Pic de Crabioules (10,233 ft), the Pic de +Bourn (9,875 ft), and the peculiar Tuc de Maupas (10,204 ft.); after +which the Trous d'Enfer and the Pic de Sacroux (8,786 ft) appear. The +next of the near peaks is the Pic de Sauvegarde (9,145 ft), but between +the Sacroux and this, calm and clear, the highest peaks of the range, +the Milieu, the Maladetta, and the Nethou, with the dead white glacier +below them, rise in view. After the Sauvegarde, the Pic de la Mine +(9,048 ft.), the Port de Venasque (7,930 ft.), and the very pointed Pic +de la Pique (7,854 ft.) appear, followed by the Pas de l'Escalette +(7,877 ft.) and the Port de la Picade (8,219 ft.), towards which group +the Vallée de l'Hospice leads. + +To the left of the Picade, the cone of the lofty "Posets" may be seen +in the distance, while more to the left, and more distant too, the Peña +Blanca (9222 ft.) is also visible. Further round, over the wooded +"cols" that guard the "Pique" valley, the Mont Ségu [Footnote: We have +only the guide's authority for the name.] and Céciré near Bosost, and +the _Pyrénées Orientales_ beyond, finished the magnificent chain. +From another situation we could look down on Luchon and from this point +were endeavouring to reach the little hut, where fodder and a few +provisions can be found in the season, when an ancient shepherd bawled +out in _patois_ that the place was as yet tenantless, for which we +felt thankful to that peasant, as it saved us a long tramp through +rather deep snow, though for that same reason we were unable to reward +his forethought as it deserved. Leaving him to pursue his guileless +way, we descended into the beech grove for our lunch, and finding +grateful shade at the foot of a fine fir, we opened the saddle-bags and +proceeded to regale ourselves, finding some snow that we brought from +the top very useful to cool the rather heated claret. After nature was +satisfied we quickly descended past the previously busy scene, and when +near the high road again came in view of some woodmen loading a cart +with logs. To do this the logs had to be brought to an eminence above +the cart, and bullocks were employed to drag up the wood. The men were +treating them most cruelly, and once or twice they lowed so piteously, +that we have translated it into + +"THE OXEN'S APPEAL." + + Working and toiling the whole of the day, + Working and toiling without any pay, + Only perchance a few mouthfuls of hay, + From earliest dawn till late. + Held by the horns 'neath this cumbersome yoke, + Firmer fixed thus than a "pig in a poke," + Feeling the "prong" and the lengthy stick's stroke, + Ours, alas, is a terrible fate. + + When straining our utmost, you bring the stick down + On our miserable backs; and you swear, and you frown, + Never thinking the sun is just "doing us brown," + As the furnace will do when we're slain. + We cannot pull more than we can, you must know, + And we cannot pull fast if we can but pull slow, + So why should you spike us, and ill-use us so, + And make our hides tingle with pain? + + We serve you well always, draw heaviest loads, + And never complain of the worst of bad roads; + While you in return use those blood-drawing goads + At ev'ry conceivable time. + Be sure that no quicker or wiser are we, + But we _do_ sometimes think if we got our horns free, + The position in which you would probably be, + And you would not pronounce it sublime. + + So listen, we pray, to our modest appeal: + With kindness more proud of our work we should feel; + And if those fierce blows you still ruthlessly deal, + You'll make our flesh horrible stuff; + For though steaks are good beaten, that's done when they're cold, + And we're certainly not, nor as yet very old; + But as some day we'll have to be butchered and sold, + We had better be tender than tough. + If you'll try our plan--that is enough! + +At twenty minutes past one we had repassed the graceful Jardin des +Quinconces, with the weeping willows overhanging the lakelet, and were +within the cool precincts of the hotel. + +Having a couple of hours to spare another morning, we wended our way +towards the Orphanage, "deep in the lilac grove." Turning off from the +road, we followed the narrow track over the rustic bridge, and were +received anything but hospitably by a huge white dog. We calmed him in +time, however, and proceeded to inspect the buildings, but found nearly +everyone shut up, though the little church--elevated above the +rest--was, unlike them, thrown open. Its very rusticity and simplicity +gave it a religious air which to us so few Roman Catholic edifices seem +to possess. The badly-spelt and feebly-worded address to the Pope, to +which he has affixed his signature, that hangs in a frame near the +door, we did not consider much of an attraction, though to the members +of the little congregation it would doubtless be a very holy relic. +Forsaking this peaceful retreat, we climbed up the ascent behind, +within view of the statue of the Virgin, but soon descended again, as +the sun was at that time particularly "baking," and we were not doughty +enough to pretend to resist it. After a cool spell near the +chapel-door, watching the "painted ladies" [Footnote: Butterflies, of +course!] playing with the lilac blossoms, we trudged slowly back again. + +One of the pleasantest as well as most interesting of our trips in the +Pyrenees was from Luchon to the little Spanish village of Bosost, and +as it is one of the principal pillars that uphold the chief title of +this volume, it deserves a detailed mention. + +This time the favourite hour of ten was not early enough for starting, +so we were on horseback by 9.15, going very leisurely, being quite +undesirous to force the pace, as the day was warm even at that hour. + +Up the Rue d'Espagne for a short distance beyond the Hôtel Richelieu +(which hotel, from all we have heard, though large, is not too moderate +nor owned by too polite a proprietor), and then we took the turning to +the left, which (as the signboard tells) leads to St. Mamet. Without +waiting to enter the old church to see its frescoes, we pursued the +road branching off to the right, which presently left the Orphanage +behind in the same direction. A few minutes later we had passed the +frontier (French) custom station, and leaving the isolated Castelvieil +(2514 ft.) for a short time on our right, and later in our rear, we +bore up the Vallée de Burbe. We had only progressed a short distance +when a huge rock was visible in the centre of the road, evidently a +very recent gift from the adjacent height. Our horses having been so +little used, were very fresh and rather fond of shying, and our +guide's, which was an Arab, not only shied at the impediment, but +wheeled round with the intention of going homewards. As we managed to +make our own, however, pass quietly, the obstreperous one, after a +brief struggle, was induced to follow their example. A little further +on, we met a fine team of Spanish mules in their full picturesque +trappings and bells. The two men in charge of them were dressed a +little untidily, but their attire was equally picturesque, the coloured +waistband, turban, and knee-breeches producing a very bright effect. + +The bright yellow-green of the beeches, mingling with the dark and +gloomy olive shade of the firs; here and there fields laden with the +blue columbine and the "overrated" asphodel; the boulder-strewn slopes +on our left, and the snow-ridges on the right; and the strong, fresh, +and foaming cascade of Sidonie tumbling down beside us, made a very +delicious contemplation as we went on our way. + +Our guide in a most "gallant" manner got off his steed to gather Miss +Blunt a few flowers, but when he endeavoured to assume his former +elevated position, the "Arab" didn't see it. In fact he _would not +be_ mounted, and the unevenness of the track added not a little to +the success of his manoeuvrings. "Luis" had not been six months a +"jockey" for nothing, however; so he lulled his steed into a sense of +security by walking beside it for some time in circus fashion, with his +right hand grasping the off side of the saddle, until a large stone +showed its head at the side of the road. As they passed, he ran up the +stone and was in the saddle before the animal realised that he was +beaten, and when he did, it seemed to humble him to that degree that he +never attempted even a curvet. + +The number of lizards we disturbed was something wonderful. None of +them were very large or very striking in colour, but they made up for +this in animation; and their fearful trepidity and hurry to get +anywhere out of sight was wonderful. + +Just before entering the sunlit beech glades we overtook a noble +cavalcade, consisting of three ladies on three donkeys, with a fat old +woman leading the way on foot. They had their lunch with them, and +apparently intended--judging by a certain hungry look they had--to make +their repast at the earliest opportunity. The young and beautiful lady +bringing up the rear was probably ignorant of the ludicrous figure she +made with her "ultra" fashionable arrangement of steels, that gave her +the appearance of having a large clothes-bag under her dress, or we +don't think she would have started on the excursion in such a garment. +If a member of the "Rational Dress Society" had seen her, there would +probably have been an "exhibition" on the spot, and a general one--with +all the latest "improvements" (?)--at Luchon a few weeks later. + +After traversing a number of beautiful glades we entered the Firs--the +Black Forest as it is called,--where bears are hunted in the winter, +and through which the road ascends by a series of zigzags to the summit +of the Col de Portillon (4275 ft.), and then descends for a short +distance to the frontier, marked by a huge boulder, with the French +flag on one side and the Spanish on the other. As we reined in the +horses opposite to it for a moment, no one could dispute that we were +indeed "'twixt France and Spain." But we did not stay to enjoy this +enviable position long; and passing on, endeavoured to realise that we +were no longer in France by fixing our eyes on the _Pyrénées +Orientales_; we could also see the Poujastou (6332 ft.) on our left, +the Couradilles (6513 ft.), the Mont Ségu, the Céciré, [Footnote: We +had only our guide's authority for these names] and further forward the +Entécade on our right. A short distance down the road there lay the +Casino du Portillon, not yet opened for the summer gambling, and not +very much further (viz., about a mile from the frontier), the Spanish +custom-house, and the Casino de Roulette. Here the road divides, the +branch to the Vallée d'Aran and Bosost bearing to the left, and the +other, to Viella and the Artiques-Tellin, in the opposite direction. + +Passing some ruined houses and fertile slopes in our descent, we soon +obtained a fine view up both ends of the Aran valley, with the +diminutive Garonne winding through, and Bosost snugly situated on the +slopes of a hill round a bend in the road. The sun was pouring down in +all his midday strength as we passed the roadside chapel of St. Antoine +and entered the antiquated little village of Bosost, stopping at the +Fonda de España for lunch. + +This inn, from the road, was as much unlike an inn as anything we ever +saw, and its ways and passages were somewhat unique; but upstairs there +was a large room with a wide terrace facing the river, which only +wanted an awning over to be rendered delicious. We were unfortunately +too early in the season for this luxury, so had to content ourselves +with lunching in the room, with wide-opened doors. When the provisions +were spread out, in rushed the guide with an official document, and a +franc to pay for having invaded Spain. We gave him the money, and asked +to taste some honest country wine, which resulted in the domestic +bringing us something rather strong, like new port, which did not go +badly with water. + +After the repast had passed pleasantly, we strolled out into the +village, Miss Blunt being equipped with the requisites for a brilliant +sketch. Unhappily, the subject was not easy to find, though we marched +through most of the streets; but having visited the ancient +church--with its chime of bells, like many others in Spain, arranged on +a wheel--we found a spot by the side of a huge elm from which there was +a good view of the sacred edifice. But it was a case of sketching under +difficulties, as the whole or at least the greater part of the village +children crowded round us, some carrying smaller children in their +arms, some playing with flowers, others cutting bits of wood, and one +and all managing to do their utmost to bother poor Miss Blunt. She +accordingly finished the sketch as quickly as possible, and we all +returned to the hotel to keep out of the oppressive heat. + +At three o'clock we started homewards, going rather faster than when we +came. Alternate clouds and sunshine overhead, the lights and shadows +over the trees, the fields--radiant with gentians, oxslips, columbine, +_polygaloe_, and asphodel--losing none of their charm. + +At the Spanish custom-house we delivered up our passport, for which we +had paid the franc, and then wound over the Portillon and gently back +to our hotel, not arriving too late for the cup that soothes and +cheers, but never cheers too loudly. + +The morrow was to see us leaving Luchon--the charming, the +beautiful--and all of us had a similar feeling, viz., that we might +soon come and see the "Pearl of the Pyrenees" again. + +It was true that we had missed all the noise and excitement which comes +with the summer; that we had missed the troops of Pau-ites wearing out +such of their "robes" as the heat would allow, and the throngs of gay +Spaniards; that we had missed the crowds of invalids, the bands of +music, and the worst specimens of the travelling world, "French +tourists." But it was a truth for which we were very grateful, and we +would certainly advise future visitors to take Luchon in the spring, +and leave it before the heat and bustle of the season mar its peace, +and the summer's sun melts the snowy splendour of the surrounding +heights. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +ST. BERTRAND DE COMMINGES. + +Keeping to old friends--Valley history--Entering the Garonne +valley--The picturesque St. Béat--St. Béat to Viella--Memories of the +lovely Thames--Baths of Ste. Marie--Loures--The cross-roads--Weak +walls--Entering St. Bertrand--An ancient house--The inn--A charming +garden--The cathedral--A national disgrace--"The Crocodile of St. +Bertrand"--The tomb of Hugues de Chatillon--Travelling desecraters--St. +Bertrand's rod--The ruined cloisters--Desolation--Swine +feeding--Montrejeau--The buffet--No milk!--French railway +officials--Trying experiences. + + +It was not many years ago that travellers with heavy luggage were +forced to travel in the clumsy diligence between Luchon and Montrejeau; +and, especially in the summer when the press for places was great, very +little comfort could be enjoyed during the journey, except perhaps on a +fine day, when for a short space the vehicle stopped at St. Bertrand de +Comminges. Now, the railway in an hour performs the whole distance; but +we preferred to keep to our old friends, a "landau and four horses," +and with the weather still propitious, left the comfortable Hôtel +Canton at our favourite time, and were soon bowling down the Allée +d'Etigny. In a short time the Allée Barcugna and the station were left +behind, and we entered the broader part of the valley of Luchon. This +valley was originally--_on dit_--a huge lake, and afterwards +--presumably when it had ceased to be such--became peopled by a Gallic +race, whose "divinity," Ilixo, [Footnote: Ilixo has now become Luchon.] +has given his name to the surroundings. We presume in this derivation +"consonants are interchangeable and vowels don't count." + +Cier de Luchon (four and a quarter miles), above which to the west +stands the Pic d'Antenac (6470 ft), was soon passed through, as we +crossed and recrossed the railway line, now following the River Pique, +and now, for a short space, keeping along the line. Five miles further, +and we left the Pique valley for that of the Garonne, passing through +the village of Cierp, which lies to the right of Marignac, the station +where passengers alight for St. Béat. This is a very picturesque +village, about three miles east, perched above the Garonne in a narrow +defile, possessing an ancient church and a good inn. The Pic de Gar +(5860 ft.), which rears up to the north of the village, is very rich in +flora; and the road passing through it (St Béat) afterwards leads by +the villages of Arlos, Fos, and Lès to Bosost (twelve miles), whence it +continues to Viella. + +The valley at this point is particularly fertile and lovely, and as we +progressed, frequently following the windings of the Garonne, memories +of pleasant hours, both lively and dreamy, spent on some of the quiet +reaches on the dear old Thames, seemed naturally to recall themselves; +the similarity of the surroundings being in some parts so great. + +At Saléchan (thirteen miles) the beautiful valleys of Siradan and +Barousse branch off, and the scenery in the vicinity is deliciously +bright and peaceful-looking. The bathing resort of Ste. Marie lies a +mile northwards, and barely a mile to the west of it, on the road to +Mauléon, the baths of Siradan are situated. Mauléon (1960 ft.) is three +and a quarter miles west from Siradan by the village of Cazaril, +standing at the head of the Barousse valley. + +Still passing through charming country, we reached Loures (not to be +confounded with Lourdes), at which place--being the railway station for +St. Bertrand--carriages can be hired for the drive, a distance of six +miles there and back. Traversing the village and crossing the bridge, +we issued again on a vista of fields bright with trefoil and waving +flowers, and backed up by finely-wooded hills. Away to the right, +nestling among the trees, stands a pretty little village and castle, +and as we passed on, St. Bertrand came in view over the crest of a +wooded hill; and, arriving at the junction where the roads from Auch, +Toulouse, and Ax join in, we ascended the hill on which this ancient +town is situated. + +Founded by Pompey the Great, B.C. 69, Lugdunum Convenarum, or Lyon, +or--as it is now called--St. Bertrand de Comminges, though standing +only 1690 ft. above the sea, seems from its isolated position, to be +much higher; as the accompanying sketch by M. Doré testifies, though +the latter exaggerates the proportions of the cathedral. + +Though in a ruinous state, much of the old ramparts and fortifications +remain, while in some parts many of the old stones seemed to us to have +been used for ornamental walls, such as no one would consider fit to +resist even a very modest cannon-ball. + +Bearing to the left, we passed beneath the "Porte Cabirole," opposite +to which stands a small kiosque, built, on account of the beauty of the +view, at that point The road continues between high walls underneath +another archway, past the ruins of a curious house, with a winding +staircased tower of the 13th century, which alas! before this appears +in print, will probably have disappeared altogether; then bending to +the left, and again to the right after a few yards, we drew up at the +Café (called by courtesy Hôtel) de Comminges, with the ancient +cathedral in full view. Having sent a telegram early in the morning, we +found lunch ready for us, and though we had fared better elsewhere, we +did not consider that for a "primitive Roman town" the meal was to be +found fault with while as to the garden belonging to the inn, it was +indeed a charming little spot. Although in truth but little more than a +"spot," the bright and varied hues of its stocks, columbines, pansies, +and sweet peas, with here and there a particularly fine iris, +contrasting so effectively with the dark green of the ivy leaves and +the blackness of the berries clustering over the old wall, gave it a +charm which we could not fail to feel; and the view from the +creeper-grown arbour over the richly-wooded hills and brilliant fields, +with the bright garden as a background, made a scene to remember and +enjoy. + +[Illustration: St. Bertrand De Comminges.] + +Notre Dame, or Sainte Marie, as the cathedral is called, attracted our +attention most, and though the front view is perfectly spoilt by the +lofty scaffolding erected before it, the inside fully compensates for +this defect, although it is impossible to view the ruinous state of +some portions without great regret. + +The English are supposed to be a very lucky people, and at any rate we +have reason to be thankful that we are not a republic, nor as a rule +neglectful of old historical buildings; and the sight of this +magnificent old place, mouldering away with no apparent aid +forthcoming--except such as the liberality of occasional visitors +provides, and that, for such a work, is practically _nil_--did not +provoke any wish to change our nationality. It is not as if the French +said, "We are becoming a Protestant people, and therefore wish to +destroy all signs of our having once followed the faith of Rome;" for +in that case censure would be utterly misplaced; but surely if the +national religion remains Roman Catholic, an ancient and wonderfully +interesting old cathedral like this ought to be suitably preserved. + +Having been built at two different periods (viz. the close of the 11th +and the middle of the 14th centuries), the architecture presents two +distinct styles, which in parts, are particularly incongruous. The +organ and pulpit combined, which are on the left of the entrance, +constitute a very handsome work of the "Renaissance" period, and are +most unique. On the opposite side of the building a crocodile--or the +remains of one--hangs from the wall, doubtless brought, as M. Joanne +suggests, from some Egyptian crusade; but the "church" puts a very +different complexion on the subject, as will be seen from the +following, which--with all its faults--will be, we trust, pardoned, +since it issues from the mouth of so badly-treated a reptile as + + "THE CROCODILE OF ST. BERTRAND." + + A crocodile truly, there's no one could doubt, + On taking a look at my skin: + It's as dry and as tough as a petrified clout,[1] + Though, alas! there is nothing within. + + I've been here on this wall for a jolly long time, + And the "cronies" a legend will tell + Of the wonderful things, void of reason and rhyme, + That during my lifetime befell. + + They'll tell you I lived in "this" beautiful vale, + And found in the river a home; + While even the bravest would start and turn pale, + If they chanced in my pathway to roam. + + They'll tell how I swallow'd the babies and lambs, + And harassed the cows in the mead; + And such slander completely my character damns, + While I've no one to help _me_ to plead. + + And they'll whine how I met the great Bertrand himself, + The miracle-worker and saint. + But those women will tell any "walkers" for pelf, + And swear I'm all black--when I ain't. + + Yes! they actually say that St. Bertrand came by, + And lifted his ivory stick, + Then dealt me a terrible blow in the eye, + Which levell'd me flat as a brick. + + But it's false! Just as false + as that "here" I was + brought + + On the back of that + wonderful man. + + But the crones just repeat + what the "priesthood" + have taught, + + And it's part of a regular + plan. + + Why, believe me, they + caught me afloat on + the Nile + + As my dinner I just had + begun; + + I was chased by a host of + the picked "rank + and file," + + And to them my destruction + seem'd fun. + + And when I was dead they + anointed my bones, + + And placed me up here + on the wall; + + But that organ at first was + so loud in its tones, + + Of rest I found nothing + at all. + + A crocodile truly. You've + heard my sad tale, + + And I say that such lies + are a sin; + + While the protests I make, + seeming nought to + avail, + + Are enough to make any + one thin! + +[Footnote 1: This is a Yorkshire word, meaning "cloth."] + +[Illustration: THE CROCODILE OF ST. BERTRAND.] + +Turning away from this "priestly" monument to St. Bertrand's miraculous +powers, we passed along the side of the remarkable choir stalls--which +take up the greater part of the edifice--and turned inside at an +opening, near the high altar. The latter, decorated with the ordinary +display of 19th century tinsel, does not call for much comment, but in +a passage close behind it stands the mausoleum of St. Bertrand, built +in 1432. The stalls were erected in the 16th century, and are worthy of +much attention. + +The rood loft, which is nearest the entrance to the cathedral, is +ornamented with figures of the Apostles and Saints, and the exterior +panels running along both sides, and divided by small choicely-carved +columns, represent a diversity of figures; none, however, seeming to +bear much, if at all, on religion. In the interior, besides the throne, +there is a remarkable "tree of Jesse "--near the first stall on the +right hand--which we thought was well done; but what with the different +figures above each stall, the arabesques uniting them, and the less +minute work under each seat, there was no lack of carving to be seen; +and even if it was not all of the highest order, the general effect was +strikingly good. It is worth noting that the cathedral, owing to some +great error, was built facing north instead of west, and that +consequently the east side is on the left of the entrance. Half-way up +this side is the small chapel of Notre Dame de Pitié, in which the fine +marble tomb of Hugues de Chatillon lies. The sculpture is especially +fine, though the beauty is somewhat marred by names scratched with a +pin or written in pencil, wherever sufficient level space is afforded. +Since English people as a rule are credited with being by far the most +numerous of this class of travelling desecraters, it was at least a +satisfaction to notice that most of the individuals, who had chosen +this objectionable--though probably the only--method of handing their +names down to posterity, were French. This tomb was only erected in the +15th century, although the good bishop died in 1352, the same year in +which the edifice was finished. + +Several relics may be seen in the sacristy, and amongst them is the +wonderful ivory rod with which the great St. Bertrand is supposed to +have slain the much-maligned crocodile. + +Close to the entrance to the sacristy a door leads into the cloisters, +where the scene of ruin and desolation is painfully evident. In the +portion nearest the church, which is roofed over, several curious +_sarcophagi_ may be seen; the rest is a series of pillars and +arches from which the roof has long vanished. In the photographs (which +may be bought at the inn) there is some appearance of order even in the +midst of the decay, but this was probably carefully effected prior to +the artist's visit; for when we were there the whole space was +overgrown completely with weeds, among which a rose-bush and a few +other flowers struggled to bloom, untended and apparently unthought of. + +Passing again through the cathedral, whose windows are well worthy of +mention, we made a detour round the town, and then started for +Montrejeau. + +The road does not pass through such charming country as we had seen in +the morning, but at times there are some pleasing little bits. At one +spot, where a grove of trees skirted the way, we noticed a large herd +of swine, watched over by a solitary and silent female, to whom they +appeared to give no trouble, never seeming to stray far. + +Going at a fairly fast pace, we only took forty-five minutes to reach +the ancient town of Mons Regalis, now completely modernised into +Montrejeau. The advancing years have not only altered it in name, for, +with the exception of the ruins of a twelfth-century castle, there is +nothing to indicate its mediaeval origin; and as to the old-world look +that is so pleasant to meet with, but now so rare, this town of the +"Royal Mount" has no trace of it. The "buffet" at the station, however, +can be recommended, although the "lacteal fluid," either in its pure or +watered form, is decidedly scarce there. The dinner and coffee are +good, and, like most dinners at the stations (always excepting such +places as Amiens and Tours), moderate, when taken at the table d'hôte. + +We had plenty of time for a meal before the train destined to carry us +on to Pau was due, but in spite of that, through the boorishness of the +station porters and staff generally, we did not depart without a lively +experience. + +It is well known that ladies as a rule are wont to travel with numerous +small parcels, and there was no exception in our party to this rule, +while Mr. Sydney and myself were not without _impedimenta_ as +well. In all, there were about a dozen--to put a familiar figure--too +small or too fragile to share the dangers of the luggage-van. These, +three respective porters promised to bring to the train, but as every +porter broke his word, they remained _in statu quo_. And we may +here remark how noticeable it is, that whereas English porters are +always on the alert to earn a few coppers, their French representatives +will rarely if ever help with anything but the registered luggage +(which of course is in the company's charge), while a higher official, +such as you would never ask in England, will occasionally assist--if +desired to do so with politeness--but only occasionally. It is evident +that the French Government reduce the staff to the narrowest limits, +and do not intend porters to help in transporting any luggage but that +which has been paid for in registration; and on the same principle as +armies are organised in South America, for every "porter" there will be +two or three superintendents. + +To resume.--This perfidy of the porters placed us in a very unenviable +position; the train was due to start, the ladies were in the carriage, +but the luggage was in a pile at the other side of the station, and Mr. +Sydney, thinking all was well, had followed the ladies. I was requested +to do likewise, as the train was off; but instead of so doing, launched +such a tirade at the head of every official within reach, that they +kept the train waiting to return it; at last, seeing I was obdurate, at +least half a dozen rushed to the offending pile, collared the various +items, and bore them towards our compartment. As the first instalment +arrived I got up, and the train started. The rest of the laden +officials were ranged a few yards apart, and as our carriage passed, +the packages and cloaks were thrown in. The scene they presented when +the door was first shut was unique, but very deplorable, and it +required the whole of the journey of four and a half _hours_ to +Pau, to calm our troubled minds, cool our heated frames, and make us +look with equanimity on our experience. It would require _years_ +to efface the opinion formed on "French railway station" management; so +in that we followed a method often pursued by schoolboys in early life, +over the "Pons asinorum," and gave it up. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +EAUX BONNES AND EAUX CHAUDES. + +Carriage _v_. diligence--Early birds--Height of +absurdity--Diminutive donkeys--A whitened region--"Crystal +clear"--Washerwomen and their gamps--A useful town-hall--A halfway +house--Moralising--A much-loved pipe--An historic ruin--A noteworthy +strong box--"Ici on rase"--Where are the bears?--Women in +gaiters--Picturesque costumes--A lovely road--A "perfect" cure--A +spring scene--A billiard-playing priest--A well-placed pavilion--The +Valentin and its cascades--Through solid rock--Gaps in the road--A +grand scene--Wanted, an artist--A fine torrent--Professional +fishers--Lucky guests--Musings--Poor Mr. Tubbins--Bonnes _v_. +Chaudes--Over the Col de Gourzy--Peculiar teams--Guelder +roses--Spinning. + + +Next year, travellers with luggage will probably be able to reach Eaux +Bonnes in a much shorter time than now, since the railway ought then to +be in working order as far as Laruns; but at the period when this was +written, the only choice of conveyances lay between a clumsy diligence +and a comfortable carriage. + +Very few people would be likely to hesitate between the two, provided +they were not travelling alone, and in that case even, they would +probably only take the former as an "experience." + +The "diligence" which starts from the Hôtel de la Poste at Pau has +three compartments, for a seat in any of which the respective charges +are 8 frs. 80 cents, 7 frs. 70 cents, and 6 frs. 60 cents. The +"first-class" seats--which are of course the best--are placed behind +the driver, and a large dusty-looking hood shields the passengers from +the rain, but not from the dust, nor, since it is black and low, from +the heat of the sun. The position therefore, even with ample +accommodation, is a trying one, but when tightly packed, and wedged in +with luggage to boot, on a warm summer or even spring day, the lot of +an individual during the 5-1/2 hours' journey, with only a half-hour's +break between, would, like the policeman's, be certainly not "a happy +one." + +When a party are going it is of course cheaper to take a carriage, +which may be had for from 35 to 50 francs to do the trip in one day, or +at the rate of 25 francs per diem, taking it for two days or more. As +the distance between Pau and either Eaux Bonnes or Eaux Chaudes is +271/2 miles, and the distance of the one watering-place from the other +61/4 miles, the actual mileage from Pau and back again is 611/4 miles, +to perform which in one day, and see the two towns as well, is a +feat--though often done--hardly to be recommended. At least two days +should be given to the task, and we do not think they would be +regretted. + +The heat in Val d'Ossau during the summer months is very great, and the +lumbering old diligence usually runs during the hottest part of the +day; we preferred an early start, and by half-past six were on the +road, meeting a few people apparently wending their way towards the +market, with flowers and vegetables for sale. Crossing the bridge and +through Jurançon, where hardly a soul was astir, we sped along the +dusty road to Gan (5 miles), at which town--one of the chief centres of +the wine district--a road to Oloron branches off to the right. Here the +inhabitants were really beginning to bustle; and as it was getting on +towards eight o'clock, they were nothing too early, although they may +have held a different opinion. At the corner of one of the streets we +came upon a team drawing a long cart, which we unanimously christened +the "height of absurdity." A pair of 17-hand horses were in the shafts, +and in front, attached as a leader, was the smallest of donkeys. Miss +Blunt thought it the _smallest donkey in the world_; but we have +met with so many lately in the Pyrenees which were in turn, in her +opinion, the smallest she had ever seen, that by this time the smallest +donkey might be but little bigger than a rat; this, however, was not +the case, as Mr. Sydney will attest. + +The valley grew more lovely as we progressed, with the winding Néez +stream running with merry music beside the road, and although Mrs. +Blunt did not indulge--as on the way to Cauterets--in any raptures of +her own, she was quite willing to agree with the rest that the frequent +resemblance of the scenery to many of the lovely bits we have in Wales +was most pleasantly apparent. + +Shortly before reaching the blanched region of the lime-works (71/2 +miles), we caught a momentary glimpse of the Pic du Midi d'Ossau (9466 +ft.), on which the summer sun had of late so relentlessly played, that +the snowy crown had quite disappeared. Rebénac (93/4 miles) was reached +at 8.40, and there we crossed the Néez by a stone bridge, the stream +then running on our right, and continuing thus for three kilomètres +farther (11 miles from Pau), when it issues from the Grotto du +Néez--only a few yards from the road. From this grotto a great part of +the torrent is diverted, being utilised to supply Pau with its pure and +sparkling fluid. Half-an-hour after leaving Rebénac we passed through +the village of Sévignac, (123/4 miles), and had a splendid view of the +Val d'Ossau from the bridge which overlooks Arudy, and which is +overlooked in turn by a fine and well-situated house. + +We had barely time to appreciate the curious rocks which abound near +Arudy, when we passed the road leading off through that town to Oloron, +and came in sight of a merry group of washerwomen, whose enormous +umbrellas--being unnecessary, since it was perfectly fine--were open in +a row, and with their shades of magenta, green, and blue, without +mentioning sundry patches of other shades, made a wonderful contrast to +the green bushes fringing the river. + +At 9.40 we entered Louvie Juzon (16 miles), with its old church and +curious belfry-tower, and its "mairie" turned into a school--for the +nonce at least; and passing the latter, we crossed the fine bridge over +the Gave d'Ossau, on the other side of which the Oloron road leads off +through Izeste to the right, and the courtyard of the Hôtel des +Pyrénées bids us enter and rest. + +How gladly the occupants of the diligences descend, for the short while +adjudged sufficient, at this customary half-way house, who but +themselves can tell? Even we were glad to let the horses have an hour's +rest, and to enjoy meanwhile some good hot coffee and chicken. The inn +itself was certainly not a paradise; but there were some lovely fields +behind it, and in front, across the road, there was an old table and an +older seat among the trees, down by the swift-flowing river. A charming +place for moralising indeed! None of us, however, were much in the +style of the "melancholy Jacques," or, with our eyes on some vigorous +fisherman higher up the river, we might have begun: + + "And yet it irks us, these bright speckled trout, + Being native swimmers in this river, should + From their own limpid pools, by gay, false flies + Be cruelly decoyed." + +Instead of this, however, we returned to the inn, where we saw a worthy +count endeavouring to clean a huge meerschaum pipe that he handled with +evident fondness, and finding our carriage ready--it being then nearly +eleven o'clock--we continued our journey. + +It was now that the real Val d'Ossau commenced, and though the drive so +far had been much enjoyed, we soon passed into scenery both more fine +and more wild. One kilomètre from Louvie on the left stands the ancient +Château de Géloz (161/2 miles) on a small hill, and on another hill +beside it--of corresponding size--stands a church. The view here, with +the village of Castets behind, the beautiful river below, and the +wooded slopes and massive rocks above, was especially charming. + +With many lovely fields on either side of us we drove at a smart pace +towards Bielle (181/4 miles), and at a quarter-past eleven entered the +town, which in bygone days was the capital of Ossau. Here the +celebrated Coffre d'Ossau, that contained archives dating from the year +1227, was kept; and it is a noteworthy fact that the presence of the +mayors of three towns, besides that of the President of the Valley +Council, was necessary before this "strong box" could be opened. + +There are many old houses and objects of interest, including some +mosaics, to be seen in the town, and among other things that attracted +our attention was a large board, painted in the most modern style, with +a pair of scissors at one side and an open razor at the other, and the +"welcome" information--"Ici on rase" underneath. + +The village of Bilhères, situated above Bielle on the slopes of the +hill, is not without interest on account of the richness of its copper +mines, while during the dry season a track leads from it over the Col +de Marie Blanque to the Vallée d'Aspe. + +As we continued our journey the frequent puffs of dust alone gave us +any trouble, but they caused us at times to screen our eyes and miss +the view. The valley, now at its widest, with pastures high up on the +hills seemingly as fertile as those beside the river, all bright with +flowers or studded with well-leaved trees, spoke of peace and +prosperity. It would have been hard indeed to imagine a huge and +ferocious bear appearing among such cultivation, although the valley +still retains its ancient name, signifying that it was once the resort +of these animals; but a "dancing bear" is the only specimen of the race +seen about there now. + +At half-past eleven we passed through the village of Bélesten (20 +miles), and a little beyond, when once more among the fields, came in +view of a curious sight. Among the many fields, variously cultivated, +was a square one dotted over with small manure heaps in rows. On the +top of several of the heaps, native aprons (belonging, we presumed, to +girls at work in the vicinity) were neatly placed. Was this a new +fashion of rearing mushrooms, or a native invention for the propagation +of aprons? No one could say, so we have given it up! + +Further on we noticed a lovely little village among the trees on the +hillside to the left; our coachman called it Louvie la Haute, and we +have heard no other name, as it is too insignificant to be mentioned in +a guide-book. + +One peculiarity of this valley seemed to be the wearing of frilled +gaiters or leggings by the women. They seem to supply the place of +stockings and shoes, being visible from just below the knee, and +descending well over the instep, so as to hide everything but the toes. + +It must have been market-day at Laruns (233/4 miles), for when we +arrived there at noon the streets were so full of carts and people that +it was a matter of difficulty to get past. If the extra bustle had +betokened one of the fêtes, of which the chief is held on August 15th +annually, we should have been far from disposed to grumble, since it is +at these Laruns fêtes alone now that the old picturesque Ossalois +costumes can be seen. M. Doré has depicted a few natives in these +costumes at their devotions in the ancient church that stood beside the +route; but no one is likely to do so again, as the edifice--when we +passed it--was falling into ruins and looked in a deplorable condition, +the finely-sculptured doorway being partly hidden by the fallen débris. +But not only the church, but more or less the whole village, seemed in +a tumble-down condition, and this appeared to us especially strange, as +everywhere around prosperity seemed to reign; and further, since the +railway from Pau, which was to be opened this year, appeared nearly +completed, the fact of Laruns being the terminus at this end of the +valley ought to render it yet more prosperous. + +Just inside the village we crossed the bridge over the almost dry bed +of the Arricuzé (beyond which the old road to Eaux Chaudes branches off +to the right), and then traversing the Gave d'Ossau, we continued under +the trees along the ancient route to Eaux Bonnes. But not for many +minutes, for, where the old road which leads to the Bear Grotto also +begins to ascend, the new route strikes up to the right, and continues +with an easy gradient to the point where it forks (24 miles), the +continuation to the right leading to Eaux Chaudes, and the branch to +the left--which we followed--to Eaux Bonnes. + +[Illustration] + +No pains have been spared to render the remainder of the journey +attractive to either the rider or the pedestrian, and to us the drive +up the broad zigzags, planted with plane trees, silver beech, ash, +polonia, aspen, arbutus, burberis, and innumerable other handsome trees +and shrubs, was a pleasant one indeed. One rocky bit on the right of +the way, completely overhung with beautiful ivy, seemed to us +especially picturesque. Admiring thus all the poetic touches in form or +colouring as we passed, we suddenly, and almost without warning, found +ourselves entering Eaux Bonnes (271/2 miles), and but a very few +moments more sufficed for our conveyance to the excellent Hôtel de +France, where the hostess was ready to receive us. + +It would, indeed, be hard to find a more charmingly compact little town +than Eaux Bonnes, anywhere: a perfect little miniature, very happily +situated and beautifully clean and neat. What more could an invalid +desire? Why, the very beauty of the surroundings ought to act +perceptibly on the constitution, and when baths and perpetual tumblers +of the rotten-egg fluid are indulged in besides, a perfect cure +_must_ be guaranteed. + +It requires but few words to describe the shape and appearance of the +place, but to convey an _accurate_ idea to the reader is, we are +afraid, a very difficult matter. The town is triangular in +shape--almost an isosceles triangle, in fact--and this triangle is +formed by the shape of the gorge, whose rocky, tree-clothed sides +overlook it. Fine rows of hotels and restaurants, and other +buildings--mostly let as furnished apartments--form the outer edge of +the triangle. A good road separates these from the Jardin Darralde, +which is likewise triangular, and planted with trees and shrubs in the +most agreeable manner, both for neatness and shade. In the centre is +the band-stand, and a bed of roses surrounds it. This is a general +description, but it does not speak of beauty, and we thought that Eaux +Bonnes was undoubtedly a beautiful place. + +Suppose a triangular slice were cut out of Hyde Park, combining some +leafy trees and a pleasant flower-bed with a band-stand added, and +hotels and restaurants were erected around it; then, that it were +transported to a narrow part of the Llanberis Pass under the very frown +of Snowdon; and snow should fall on the surrounding summits; and +magnificent beech groves and cascades appear down the wild slopes +below, some idea of what Eaux Bonnes is like might be gained; but even +then it would be little more than an idea. + +It certainly has not the grandeur of Cauterets, the freedom of St. +Sauveur, or the expansive loveliness of Luchon. It is hemmed in by the +surrounding heights, of which, at the head of the Sourde (or Soude) +valley (in which it lies) the magnificent Pic de Ger is most +conspicuous, and doubtless this renders it a "warm retreat" in summer; +but to see it as we saw it, with the sun shining on the rain-spangled +leaves of the trees in the Jardin Darralde, on the lighter green of the +beeches above, and glinting through the foam of the "Valentin" +cascades; with no invalids, no gallant French horsemen, no +gaily-dressed women, but only a few peasants dotted here and there, at +work, to give life to the scene--to see it, in short, as it is in +spring, can only give rise to pleasant feelings, which would mellow +into pleasanter and more appreciative memories! + +The amount of rain we had during our stay was only sufficient to cool +the heated atmosphere and lay the dust; but Eaux Bonnes has rather a +watery reputation, and many are the times that the visitors become +victims to a shower, returning from their "constitutional" or their +visit to the baths. + +When we arrived the hotel had only been open a very short time, as the +"season" was far from beginning, and the only other occupants, as +visitors, were a rather stout man and a fat, jovial-visaged priest. We +discovered them in the billiard-room as the priest was just in the +throes of a most simple cannon, and our entrance appeared to damage his +play, while his face rather lengthened, as though he felt ashamed at +having been surprised at a worldly game. This may have been our fancy, +as he was certainly the first R.C. priest we had seen with a cue in his +hand; perhaps, however, he will not be the last. + +After this we lunched, and after that, left the hotel and walked up the +main road towards the Sourde Gorge, passing a choice marble shop, the +bathing establishment, the church, and the town-hall. Beyond this +last-named building the gorge narrows and extends to the base of the +Pic de Ger (8571 ft.). Leaving this on our right, we followed the +Promenade de l'Imperatrice, that ascends above the town-hall, till the +path leading to the little kiosque--built on the summit of a rocky +eminence called the "Butte du Trésor"--branched off to the right. + +The view from the little pavilion is indeed a gratifying one, for +though not extended, it is so entirely choice and picturesque; while +the name of the eminence on which it stands, and from which some of the +healing springs are said to rise, is decidedly appropriate, since there +can be no doubt that they have proved a "mine of wealth" to several, +although, as M. Taine remarks, it is "grotesque that a little hot water +should have caused the introduction of civilised cooking in its very +cauldrons." + +Descending from the kiosque, we continued along the Route de +l'Imperatrice, over which the beeches and other trees made a pleasant +shade. This is a special walk for invalids, as it is constructed in +zigzags of the easiest gradient, and while being both sheltered from +west winds and open to the sun, it also commands at various points a +good view of the River Valentin, the lower or Discoo Cascade, and the +bridge which spans it; as well as the Route Thermale to Argelès, which +follows the right bank of the river. + +[Illustration: CASCADE DU VALENTIN.] + +Most of the numerous cascades in the neighbourhood--thanks to the +engineering of the "Empress's Walk" and the road to Argelès--are in +easy walking distance for most people, even invalids; those usually +visited being the Cascade des Eaux Bonnes, de Discoo, du Gros-Hêtre and +du Serpent; the Cascade de Larsessec (33/4 miles) requires some fatigue +to reach. + +The road leading from the river back to the Hôtel de France passes +between two walls of rock against which the houses are built. This +passage has been made by blasting the solid rock, and it seemed that +the work had been one of no small difficulty. + +All great excursions were denied us, as neither the Pic de Ger nor the +fatiguing Pic de Gabizos were sufficiently free from snow; while the +road to Argelès still remained broken down in three places, and it +seemed as though July would disappear ere the terrible gaps made by the +avalanches could be built up anew. + +We started for Eaux Chaudes in the cool of the afternoon, anticipating +a pleasant drive, and were very far from being disappointed. After +retraversing the road to the branching point above Laruns--near which +the fields and banks were rich in gentians, violets, scabii, +_linariae_, and columbines--we seemed suddenly to plunge into the +Gorge de Hourat. There can be little doubt that there is no truer +specimen of a gorge in the Pyrenees than this. The piled-up crags +overgrown with heather, and the splendid pastures above on the +hill-tops, seen in the Cauterets Gorge, were missing; so, too, the +varied tints and softer landscape bits of the St. Sauveur defile were +absent; but here the masses of rock rose straight up on either side, at +times seemingly ambitious to hide their summits in the clouds; while +the roar of the torrent issuing from the Hourat (or Trou, _i.e._ +hole) above which the road passes, only served to heighten the grand +effect of the scene. + +Just after the narrowest part is passed, a small chapel may be noticed +high above the river on the right. It marks the scene of a frightful +accident. The old road, which was in use till 1849, passed by the spot, +and a heavily-laden diligence full of passengers overturned--through +the horses taking fright, it is said--and the whole complement were +dashed over the rocks into the torrent below. The chapel has since been +erected, but though the old road still exists, and, in fact, joins the +new one at the Pont Crabé--which beautiful place is admirably depicted +in the sketch--there is little danger of such an accident occurring +again. + +A little further on--viz. about two miles from Eaux Chaudes--we noticed +below us as charming a subject as any painter could wish for. A small +plot of velvet-like green-sward beside the rushing river; some trees, +leafy almost to extravagance, gracefully arched above; a few sheep +descending a narrow track on the hillside; and above all, the immense +rocky heights, around the base of which beeches and other trees +luxuriantly grew, and many beautiful flowers bloomed; and, thus +garlanded at their base, their stern and massive summits looked grander +still, and completed such a picture of majestic beauty as no lover of +nature could fail to enthusiastically admire. + +One mile further there is another fine sight, though not of the +comprehensive beauty of that just mentioned. This one doubtless is not +worth seeing in mid-summer, when the sun has dried up the mountain +streams, but when _we_ passed that way we could see from the very +summit of the hill--above which the pointed Pic de Laruns reared its +crest--a mass of foam issuing from between two rocks, no puny +meandering streamlet, but a strong torrent, which, as it dashed from +rock to rock, gathered strength and velocity till it rushed amid a +cloud of spray into the river below. + +[Illustration: CRABÉ BRIDGE, IN THE EAUX CHAUDES GORGE.] + +We saw one or two gentlemen--evidently early visitors like +ourselves--anxiously whipping the river for fish, but they caught +nothing; in fact, they told us afterwards that it was done with hardly +any hopes of catching, since the "professional"--save the name--element +came out with rods and nets, so that if the rods didn't answer they +could net the pools instead. It seemed to us a remarkably good thing +that "professionals" can't do the same in England! + +There is another lovely scene not half a mile away from the town, where +a path leads from the road to the riverside. There is a plot of +green-sward here, and a grove of trees; and the river passes under a +bridge, that vibrates with the force of the torrent surging against its +rocky base. The path over the bridge leads through the leafy glades on +the heights that overlook the river, and the town may be regained by +crossing another bridge higher up. + +Soon after, we were entering Eaux Chaudes (271/2 miles), and having +passed the Hôtel de France on the left, and the gardens and bathing +establishment on the right, we drove up to the Hôtel Baudot and were +courteously received by Madame. + +It appeared that we had arrived a day too late, as the marriage of +Madame's niece with the hotel _chef_ had been celebrated the day +before, and wonderful festivities had taken place in their honour; +while the guests in the hotel (fortunately not more than eight in +number) had been regaled with champagne and many choice dishes. + +While waiting for dinner we strolled about on the terrace, opening out +of the dining-room and overlooking the river. It did not need the boxes +of bright flowers that lined the terrace sides to entice us there, but +they certainly added to the delightful picture of river and trees; and +as one face reminds us of another, so this scene carried our memory +back to another, but a more lovely one even, because the beauty of the +trees was heightened by large bushes of azaleas--bright with +various-coloured blooms--growing between. But beauty and comfort do not +always go together, and for calm enjoyment this Pyrenean scene had the +preference; for the other was in the heart of Japan, at the tiny +village of Sakurazawa, and we gazed on the picture through the open +_shoji_, [Footnote: Sliding screens, being frames of wood pasted +over with paper, acting as doors and windows.] lying on the neat but +hard--very hard--mats, that were our tables, chairs, and beds in one; +which our host's assurance, that the Mikado himself had slept upon them +the year previous, didn't make any softer. The announcement of dinner +cut short further musings, and we took our places at the table, +profusely adorned with evidences of the previous day's ceremony. + +At a table-d'hôte of eight or ten people conversation is as a rule easy +and general. It requires a so-called "typical Englishman" to keep +himself within himself, in a shroud of pride and reserve, and the +"typical Englishman" is, thank goodness, nearly out of date. We were +very anxious to learn about the plateau above Gabas. Was this plateau +really worth seeing; and if so, when was it best to start? Everybody +was ready to give their version of the trip, but Mr. and Mrs. Tubbins +(if we recollect rightly) seemed the most anxious to speak. Mrs. T. was +simply a combination of bolsters which shook with the exertion of +speech, while poor Mr. T., a meek, thin, haggard-looking man--and no +wonder--seemed to be ready to put in a word if required, but looked in +momentary terror of getting a snub instead. + +This look was not an unnecessary one; for Mrs. T., with all her anxiety +to give information, did not get on very fast, and made many mistakes +in names, &c., which her worse-half tried to rectify, with the result +that she turned on him with "Frank, I wish you wouldn't interrupt; you +are quite wrong, you know!" + +However, from the general company we managed to gather a good deal of +information, which, as a cloudy day spoilt our own trip thither on the +morrow, it may be expedient to repeat. Gabas is only a hamlet of a few +houses, and is in itself uninteresting. Situated five miles from Eaux +Chaudes, it is reached by a good carriage road, which, crossing the +Pont d'Enfer, continues along the left bank of the river the rest of +the way, the views being chiefly of granite summits and thick pine +forests. But though Gabas makes an excellent resting-place or +starting-point for several excursions, no one stays there for any other +reason, and tourists from Eaux Chaudes usually pass it on the way to +the Plateau des Bious-Artigues or to Panticosa. The road forks at +Gabas, and becomes no longer anything but a bridle path, the right +branch leading to the plateau, the other passing by the Broussette +valley, across the Spanish frontier, to Panticosa. The plateau is +reached in one hour and a half, not without exertion, and the view over +the Pic du Midi d'Ossau is considered wonderfully fine. Several of our +informants, however, had chosen bad days, and after all their labour, +found a thick mist over everything that was worth seeing. Among these +Mrs. Tubbins had figured, and her goodman had suffered in consequence. +"The idea," she said, "of bringing me all this way, and at my time of +life too, simply to see a mist, as if I hadn't seen plenty of them at +home!" Of course she had come of her own accord, and the meek and +injured one had followed as a matter of course. + +[Illustration: THE BIOUS-ARTIGUES.] + +The journey from Gabas to Panticosa requires a good twelve hours, and +generally more; consequently an early start is advisable. It is a +favourite way of entering Spain, and much more practicable than the +route from Cauterets to the same spot. + +Of Eaux Chaudes itself there is but little to say, for with the +exception of the hotels, the bathing establishment, and a few shops, +there is nothing to form a town. Like Eaux Bonnes it is shut in by the +mountains on either side, but it is more oblong in shape, with two +parallel streets. The Promenade du Henri IV., which leads southwards +from the Hôtel Baudot along the side of the river, is a cool and +pleasant walk, especially of an evening. + +Various opinions exist as to which place is most suitable for a +residence, the "Bonnes" or the "Chaudes." In spring probably the +former, but the latter certainly in summer; for not only is it free +from the bustling, gaily-dressed crowd which throngs its rival, but +there is a fresh breeze that blows up the valley which renders it +always cool and pleasant; while the scenery is as fine as the most +fastidious could wish for. + +The Col de Gourzy and the lofty Pic of the same name tower above Eaux +Chaudes, and a route to Eaux Bonnes--which to good pedestrians is well +worth the exertion--passes over the former. The path strikes off from +the Gabas road to the left, while yet in the town, and passes by the +Minvieille "buvette." For the first half-hour the route is the same as +that to the Eaux Chaudes grotto; this is an excursion, of two hours +there and back, that is in great favour with tourists. Where the path +forks, the one to the grotto is left on the right, and after some +fatiguing work the Plateau de Gourzy is reached, from which the view on +a fine day is splendid. The track then leads through beech glades and +box thickets to the "Fontaine de Lagas" (near which a wild and +beautiful valley branches off to the right), and finally joins the +Promenade Jacqueminot at Eaux Bonnes. Horses may be taken the whole +distance, but it is easier for them--if tourists choose this +highly-recommended route--when the start is made from Eaux Bonnes. + +It rained severely early on the morning of our departure, but later, +cleared up into a lovely day, enabling us to start at 8.30. The river +and the cascades were full, and the sun glinting on the wet leaves gave +a fairy-like appearance to this magnificent gorge. As we looked back +from the cascade, which seemed to tumble from the summit of the Pic de +Laruns, the clouds gradually rising over the head of the valley +disclosed a huge snow mountain [Footnote: The "cocher" called it the +Pic d'Estremère, but we had no confirmation of this] to view, that +appeared to form an impassable barrier 'twixt France and Spain. + +When we reached Laruns we had a fine view of its pointed peak, and +through the morning haze the lofty Pic de Ger over Eaux Bonnes looked +imposing indeed. Travelling we found very pleasant. There was no dust, +the air was cool, the roads just soft enough for comfort, and the whole +valley refreshed with the morning's rain. The people in the fields +worked with greater energy, and the bright scarlet hoods of the +damsels, many of whom followed the plough, gave a pleasant colouring to +an animated scene. We passed several flocks of geese, apparently +unwilling to proceed at as rapid a pace as the good woman--with her +frilled gaiters--who was in charge of them wished; but with those +exceptions we hardly met anybody or anything on the road till we had +passed Louvie. + +What we then met were a couple of carts filled with coal, and as we +never recollected having seen any such peculiar teams as they were +drawn by, we concluded they were "Ossalois," and "peculiar" to the +valley. There were eight animals to each cart, four bulls and four +horses. The bulls were harnessed in pairs (as in a four-in-hand coach), +and acted as wheelers, while the horses, acting as leaders, were +harnessed in line, one in front of another. Curious as this arrangement +seemed, they made good progress with a very heavy load! + +[Illustration: THE PIC DE GER.] + +At Sévignac a splendid Guelder rose-tree grew in a small garden over a +mill stream, and a very ancient dame very willingly sold us some +clusters which were peculiarly fine; in another garden a very fine bush +of white _cistus_ was completely covered with blooms. The +hedgerows, too, were bright with flowers; the wild Guelder roses and +medlars [Footnote: The "makilahs," or slicks peculiar to the Basque +people, are made from the wild medlar. They are very heavy, tipped with +iron, and unpleasant to carry.] preponderating, but elder bushes were +also plentiful, and covered with blossoms. + +At Rébenac we stopped at the Hôtel du Périgord for coffee and a fifteen +minutes' rest, the horses not requiring any more, as the day was so +cool. While drinking the "welcome liquid" we watched an old woman out +of the window, spinning. Her distaff was apparently very old and dirty, +and as she span she seemed to be crooning some ancient ditty to +herself, thinking, maybe, of her children and grandchildren, or even of +the days when she was herself a child. + +We started again when the quarter of an hour was up, and bowled along +towards Gan, meeting on the way several natives (men) with their hair +in long pigtails, like Chinamen; they looked otherwise decidedly +_Béarnais_, but their appearance was peculiar, to say the least of +it. Beyond Gan we passed into full view of the lovely Coteaux, which +afford such pleasant rides and drives from Pau, and as we gradually +neared the town, the heat seemed to intensify to anything but a +pleasurable degree. + +Four hours forty minutes after starting we were once more under the +roof of Maison Colbert, with such a luncheon before us as fully +justified the hospitable repute that it has always borne. + +But Pau was far too hot for us to remain for more than a few days, +although the heat was unusually great for that time of the year, and we +were very glad when once more on our journey towards the pleasant +breezes and blue waters of the Biscay. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +BIARRITZ. + +A warm ride--Bayonne--A "Noah's ark" landscape--Amusements +--Bathing--Shells--Cavillers--A canine feat--The pier and rocks--A +restless sea--"The Three Cormorants"--Dragon's-mouth Rock--To the +lighthouse--Maiden-hair ferns--Mrs. Blunt's adventure--The drive round +the lakes--_Osmunda regalis_ ferns--The pine-woods near the +bar--St. Etienne and the Guards' cemetery--Croix de Mouguère--Cambo and +the Pas de Roland--Anemones--A fat couple--A French scholar +--Hendaye--Fuenterabia--A quaint old-world town--The Bidassoa +--Pasages--San Sebastien--The Citadol and graves--The "Silent +Sisters"--Raised prices--Parasols and spectacles. + + +The journey to Biarritz began comfortably enough, but after the first +few miles the heat became very oppressive, and though we had no +repetition of our Montrejeau experience at starting, we felt +nevertheless almost as warm as if we had. + +Our arrival at Bayonne was a great relief, for the sun had partially +retired, and as we crossed in turn the Adour and the Nive, a scent of +the "briny" was borne into our omnibus with revivifying effect. Passing +up one of the narrow old streets to execute a few commissions, we +regained the "Place," crossed the drawbridge, and entered the lovely +avenues, from which, beyond the "fosse," the twin towers of the +beautiful cathedral come into view. On the right is the station of the +"steam tram-line," and some hundred yards beyond it the road to +Biarritz curves in the same direction. + +This road cannot be called beautiful! The never-ending line of poplars +along each side turn the landscape into that Noah's ark style which +even the soul that could be "contented with a tulip or lily" would +hardly admire. Approaching Biarritz, however, the handsome villas and +their gardens fully deserve the epithet which cannot in justice be +applied to the road. They are indeed beautiful; and to pass them even +in winter, with the camellia trees laden with blossoms and the roses +scenting the air, makes comparison with our London gardens very odious +indeed! + +Under the small-gauge railway-bridge, and past the new "English Club," +we soon entered the town, [Footnote: The distance between Bayonne and +Biarritz is 5 miles.] and driving down the Rue Mazagran into the Place +Sainte Eugenie, drew up at the familiar Hôtel de Paris, in time for +dinner. + +Although Biarritz is in the department of the Basses-Pyrénées, it is so +far away from the mountains that many might consider its introduction +into this volume as questionable; we do not therefore intend to say as +much as could be said about it. At the same time, it is so greatly +recommended by doctors as a beneficial spot for a final "brace up" +before returning to England, after a mountain trip, and is, besides, +such a favourite winter residence, that we consider it would be more +"questionable" to omit it. + +Unlike Pau, its amusements are not of a very varied character. In +winter, lawn-tennis and balls are the chief, and concerts occur +generally weekly or bi-weekly. As spring asserts herself, bathing +commences and picnics become the fashion; and in the early summer--as +long as the English remain--tennis and bathing go almost hand-in-hand. + +The tennis-ground--which is only a short distance from the English +church of St. Andrew's--is well laid out and commodious, possessing an +excellent reading room for members' use, as well. Of bathing +establishments there are three; the large building in the Moorish style +on the Plage, the less pretentious but more picturesque one in the Port +Vieux, and the least pretentious and least protected one, under the +"falaises" [Footnote: Blue chalk cliffs.] beyond. + +The first and last are only used in the height of summer; that in the +Port Vieux--from its sheltered position--opens its box-doors as soon as +winter really gives place to spring. The scene, when the tide is high +on a morning in June, is often an exceedingly pretty one, for to the +pristine picturesqueness of the surroundings is added those touches of +human nature enjoying itself, which, if it doesn't "make us kin," goes +a long way towards it. + +The "Port Vieux" is triangular in shape, with the apex inland, along +the sides of which the boxes are erected, reaching to the water's edge +at high tide. In the middle lies an expanse of deep sand, and the blue +waters roll in between the rocks and gently break on a shingly beach, +where the tiniest shells and pebbles mingle to make the one drop of +bitterness in the bather's cup. + +When the sandy expanse is crowded with merry children, the roads and +seats above filled with spectators, and the water with members of both +sexes in varied costumes and "headgears"--not forgetting the boatman in +the tiny skiff who is here, there, and everywhere in case he is +needed--the scene is a very pleasant one to look upon. Of course there +are always some narrow-minded individuals to find fault, some "maiden" +aunts "with spinster written on their brows," who will put up their +gold-rimmed glasses with that peculiar sniff that invariably prefaces +some _extra sweet_ remarks, such as, "Dear me, how wicked! Men and +women bathing together in that barefaced manner; and ... I do believe +there's that forward Miss Dimplechin actually taking hold of Captain +Smith's hand, and he a married man too! Thank goodness, I never did +such a thing--never!" [Footnote: Did she ever have the chance?] + +Above the Port Vieux, on the left, stands Cape Atalaya, with the ruins +of an ancient tower, and a flagstaff on its summit. A road leads round +its base, passing between a circular mound overlooking the "old +harbour," and the yard where the concrete blocks are fashioned for the +strengthening of the pier. + +There are seats on this mound, whence people can watch the bathing; and +we often saw a remarkable feat performed from it as well. A race of +wonderful water-dogs--said to be a cross between the Newfoundland and +the French poodle--is bred at St. Jean de Luz, eight miles from +Biarritz. One of their uses is to drive the fish into the nets, and for +this purpose one is taken in every boat that puts to sea. The method is +extremely simple. As soon as the net surrounds a shoal, the dog is put +in the centre, and by beating the water with his paws he effectually +drives the finny creatures into the meshes. It was one of this same +species of dogs that attracted so much attention at the Port Vieux by +leaping after a stick from the mound--a distance of some fifty +feet--into the sea. He would do it as often as his master would let +him, and appeared to enjoy it immensely, though he always reached the +water before the stick, and had then to turn round and hunt for it. + +The road, after skirting one side of the yard, crosses the trackway +that runs down the pier and doubles up the other side, through the +tunnel and past the Port aux Pêcheurs, into the Place Ste. Eugénie; +whence, continuing by the base of the Hôtel d'Angleterre and the +casino, it extends to the bathing establishment on the Plage. In the +other direction it rounds the Port Vieux, and leads under the cliffs to +the other resort of summer bathers; consequently, it might be +appropriately termed the "Chemin des Bains." + +The pier is a very favourite resort, and many a fierce fight with the +waves is enacted at its extremity, in which, alas! the sea has always +proved the stronger. As a rule, visitors are not permitted to pass the +"Cucurlon" rock, on which the Virgin's statue stands; but if the +weather is very fine, the gate is opened to admit of any who are so +minded going to the end. On a wild day, with a high wind blowing +inland, the "battle of the waves" is a fine sight, especially from the +platform erected below the flagstaff on Cape Atalaya. Thence the full +beauty of the huge billows, dashing into clouds of spray against the +pier, and, unallayed, pursuing their course with relentless energy till +they boom amid the hollow caverns of the hill, may be admired and +wondered at. + +There are two rocks which (as one looks seaward) rise up to the left of +the pier, and serve to break in some measure the force of the waves. +The larger of these in calm weather is frequented by cormorants, and +has gained the name of "Cormorant Rock." There were three of these +birds on it one very rough day, and we saw a scene enacted which--with +due apologies to the late Rev. Charles Kingsley for thus adapting his +pathetic verses--we have commemorated in the following lines, under the +title of + +"THE THREE CORMORANTS." + + Three cormorant dandies were perch'd on a rock, + Were perch'd on a rock as the waves dash'd high; + Each thought himself equal to any black cock, + And proudly determined the sea to defy. + For cormorants fish, and cormorants catch, + And they swallow their prey with the utmost despatch, + Without all the trouble of boning! + + Three cormorant damsels were waiting at home, + Were waiting at home for the dandies so dear. + "Oh, say! are they fishing where fierce billows foam?" + And the damsels sat chattering their bills with fear! + For cormorant maidens _can fish_ and _can catch_, + And each one considered she'd made a good match. + And now for her dandy was moaning. + + Three cormorant dandies were washed off the rock, + Were washed off the rock by a powerful wave; + And, quite unprepared for the terrible shock, + They sank in the depths of a watery grave. + For cormorants fish, and cormorants catch, + But if waves dash high they should use despatch, + Or their loved ones will always be groaning! + +There are some curious rocks in front of the new harbour, notably the +"Dragon's-mouth Rock," through which on a rough day the water +continuously pours; more to the right, between this and the "Plage," is +a curious group known as the "Chinaougue." [Footnote: Have never found +any one able to account for this title, which is more barbaric than +pronounceable.] A bridge communicates with the largest, on which +"petticoat daffodils" grow, and the couples that may occasionally be +seen going over there _doubtless_ do so to gather these. Beyond +the Port Vieux and underneath the Villa Belzar other curious formations +may be seen, to which an iron gate at the head of a few damaged steps +gives access. + +At Biarritz itself there is really nothing to be seen except the sea. +And yet this sea is so beautiful in its varied moods, that a lover of +nature can watch it day after day for any reasonable period, without a +feeling of _ennui_ or a wish for anything more lovely! + +[Illustration: THE ROCKS OF BIARRITZ.] + +There are many pleasant walks and drives around, but most of them +require a whole day, and are more preferable as a drive than as a walk. +The shortest is to the lighthouse and back, and this is only a very +easy promenade, taking about an hour; so we will deal with it first, +leaving the longer ones to await their turn. + +We started one afternoon when the sky was cloudless and the coastline +very clear, hoping to obtain a good view of the Spanish coast, and a +few specimens of maiden-hair fern, if fortune were favourable. We +traversed half the town, when Mrs. Blunt suddenly came to a halt +opposite the Hôtel de France, and pointed to a three-wheeled vehicle of +the bath-chair type, to which a weird and very ancient-looking steed +was attached. "I think," said she, "that would be more comfortable for +me than walking; please inquire if it is on hire." So we applied to a +fat dame, who was busily knitting hard by, and having arranged terms, +Mrs. Blunt got in and we continued our way. + +Down past the bank and at an easy pace to what was once the Villa +Eugénie, [Footnote: This building, where Emperor and Empress lived at +different times, now belongs to a company under the title of the +"Palais Biarritz," and is employed as a casino and restaurant. "Sic +transit gloria imperatorum."] and continuing up the hill at the same +speed, we gradually drew near the lighthouse, and when once the Villa +Noailles was left behind and the level road reached again, we were soon +at our destination. [Footnote: At low tide there is a way to the +lighthouse along the beach in front of the Palais Biarritz, and up a +steep path over the rocks. The other is much the better way, however, +at all times.] The view of the coast to St. Jean de Luz, San Sebastien, +and almost to Santander, was peculiarly good, as well as that on the +other side in the direction of Bayonne; and while Mrs. Blunt remained +in contemplation from her vehicle, we descended to view the rocks and +caves below. + +As a rule it is unwise to disclose where botanical treasures grow, as +they generally become extinct soon afterwards, from excess of +admiration on the part of collectors; but the maiden-hair ferns, for +which the lighthouse rocks are known, can take very fair care of +themselves, as they grow in such awkward positions--we might say +dangerous--that only a few real enthusiasts, or an anxious collector +with a _steady head_, are likely to venture to attack their +strongholds. + +[Illustration: VILLA EUGÉNIE.] + +We saw many specimens in the interstices of the rocks surrounding a +moss-grown pool, but they were quite unapproachable. One clump above we +did manage to reach and bear away a few roots of, in triumph; but at +one time there was only two inches of stone for the foot to rest on, +with sheer rocks below; and consequently, without a rope, the +experiment would hardly be worth repetition. However, without mishap we +started on our return journey, and all went smoothly till the Villa +Noailles was again reached; but at this point we suddenly noticed that +Mrs. Blunt was rapidly out-distancing us. Whether the ancient steed +dreamt of its former youth and activity, and "grew young once more," or +whether its long rest had made it anxious to reach its stable, we know +not; but the unpleasant reality was forced upon us, that it was rapidly +bearing Mrs. Blunt away. Miss Blunt had been walking near the vehicle, +Mr. Sydney and rather behind; but as Miss Blunt started to run, we +rapidly followed, and overtook the steed, which, having by that time +pulled up at the bottom of the hill, appeared to be anxious to turn +round and have a look at Mrs. Blunt. As it neighed at the same time, +perhaps it was asking, "Who's my driver?" but this was mere conjecture +on our part, although we were not sorry to restore the animal to the +fat old lady--still knitting--and escort Mrs. Blunt back to the hotel, +none the worse for her little adventure! + +[Illustration: SCENE I.--BEFORE THE START.] + +[Illustration: SCENE 2.--THE ANCIENT STEED GREW YOUNG ONCE MORE.] + +[Illustration: SCENE 3.--WHO'S MY DRIVER?] + +The favourite of the short drives is known as the "Tour des Lacs." It +embraces the prettiest country in the vicinity, and the whole distance +is about six miles. We found it most pleasant to start, after lunch, +from the Place de la Mairie, turning up the Rue Gambetta past the +market and on to the "Falaises," where the sea-breeze blows fresh and +free. Keeping to the right where the road forks, the "abattoir" was +soon left behind and the Villa Marbella reached; we then curved round +"Lac Chabiague," and ascending slightly between fields gay with the +"fleur des frontières" [Footnote: A lovely blue flower, something like +a gentian.] and the wild daphne, we dipped again slightly to the point +where the road to St. Jean de Luz forks to the right. Bearing to the +left between hedges overgrown with _sarsaparilla_, and entering a +shady lane, a few minutes sufficed for us to reach the "Bois de +Boulogne," where the road skirts the Lake Mouriscot, and passes beside +many splendid clumps of the _Osmunda regalis_ fern. The lake is +very deep and full of fish; but bathing is certainly not advisable, as +there is a great quantity of reeds and weeds all round the water's +edge. + +Leaving the pleasant woods, we emerged on to the Route Imperiale--the +direct road from the Negresse station (on the main line to Spain) to +Biarritz--and following it as far as the metals, we turned to the left +up the Irun-Bayonne route. This, however, was not our road for long, as +we took the first turning on the left-hand side up a pretty lane, which +brought Lake Marion into full view. The other end of the lane joins the +"Route Imperiale" again; which, leading in turn past the cemetery, the +parish church, and the terminus of the "steam tram-line," enters the +town near the International Bank. + +It will be noticed that there are several ways of reaching Bayonne. The +cheapest and most expeditious, for marketing or other business +purposes, is by the narrow-gauge railway, with its curious double +carriages, one above the other. By driving the two miles to the +Negresse station, and catching the express from Spain, is another way, +but one not recommended to anybody but travellers [Footnote: Travellers +for the Pau line have to change at Bayonne, consequently it is simpler +for them to drive the five miles from Biarritz direct to Bayonne, than +drive two to the Negresse station, with the necessity of changing ten +minutes after entering the train.] going to stations on the line +between Bayonne and Paris. Of the three routes for driving we have +already mentioned the most frequented one--at the commencement of the +chapter; from the Negresse station by the Bayonne-Irun road is another; +and the last and prettiest passes behind the Villa Eugénie almost to +the lighthouse, but there branches off to the right past the Chambre +d'Amour inn, to the pine-woods near La Barre, and thence into Bayonne! +This drive may be prolonged in two directions: firstly, by crossing the +Nive and the Adour to the Guards' cemetery (where those who fell in the +sortie from Bayonne 1813-14, are buried) at St. Etienne; and secondly, +by following the bank of the river for some distance (past the market), +and turning up into the country by way of St. Pierre to the Croix de +Mouguère. This latter makes a splendid picnic, and the locality is a +rich hunting-ground for entomologists. + +There are four other excursions that we must not omit to mention, viz., +Cambo and the Pas de Roland, St. Jean de Luz, Fuenterabia, and San +Sebastien. All of these, with the exception of the first, can be +reached by _rail_, and as far as St. Jean de Luz the _road_ +from Biarritz [Footnote: There is a more direct route to Cambo from +Bayonne.] is common to all; so that to save space we will only mention +it on our way to Cambo. + +Starting at an early hour with plenty of provisions, we bowled down to +the Negresse station, crossed the line, and ascended the hill above +Lake Mouriscot, at the top of which Bidart--the first of the Basque +villages--comes into view. + +Guétary (3 miles), standing on a hill to the southward, was next seen, +and in due time we reached St. Jean de Luz (8 miles), a town of over +4000 inhabitants (possessing a very good hotel and baths, and some +historical buildings), situated on a strip of sand between the River +Nivelle and the sea. Here the road to Cambo branched off to the left, +inland--the high road to Spain continuing near the seaboard--and +frequently skirting the Nivelle as far as St. Pée, we passed on by +Espelette to Cambo. The Hôtel St. Martin there, which generally +attracts visitors for a few days at least, was not our destination; so +we took a glimpse at Fagalde's celebrated chocolate factory and the old +churchyard high above the river--while our horses were being +changed--and then resumed our journey to the Pas de Roland. [Footnote: +So-called from the fable that Roland, coming to the place and wishing +to cross, found the rocks barring his passage, so kicked them, +whereupon they parted for him to pass between.] The scenery now became +very charming, the winding river (Nive) adding much to the general +beauty, especially where it dashed out from between the rugged rocks of +the gorge with which Roland's name is associated. + +After exploring this narrow pass we found a suitable place for luncheon +and sat down. + +In returning, we halted near the village of Itsatsou, to gather some of +the lovely scarlet anemones [Footnote: A fee of 1 franc for one person, +or 2 francs for three, is expected for admission into the fields.] +which grow near there, and cover the fields with such a blaze of colour +as makes them conspicuous from a long distance. The rest of the journey +in the cool of the afternoon was very pleasant, but our route was the +same till reaching Bidart, where we curved to the left, and came by a +branch road (previously mentioned), _viá_ the Villa Marbella and +the Falaises, back to our hotel. + +At dinner that night we noticed that there had evidently been some +"goings and comings" among the guests; and doubtless the new arrivals +were congratulating themselves on having succeeded in getting rooms in +the hotel--for be it understood this good house is nearly always full, +as it deserves to be. We missed with sorrow the familiar forms of Mr. +and Mrs. Berecasque, who, with all their bigoted hatred for anything +approaching to High Church notions, were as a rule exceedingly genial +and good-natured, as fat people usually are. + +The ladies certainly used to say that Madame had a perplexing way of +putting leading questions as to why somebody's daughter went with +somebody else's son, or what on earth could that nice gentlemanly young +curate (Low Church of course) see in that fast young lady who was +always working banners and such like enormities? But we never noticed +this; though that which on this particular evening probably no one +could fail to notice was, that their places were now occupied by a +couple of beings as strikingly thin as Mr. and Mrs. Berecasque had been +fat. We were told their name, but there was rather a buzz of +conversation going on at the time, and we might not have caught it +properly, but it certainly sounded like "Grouser." However, that does +not matter much; what is far more to the point is the amusement that +Mr. Grouser gave to those who had the privilege of sitting near him. +Apparently a self-made man, without any children--who by better +educations might have helped him to knowledge--his acquaintance with +the French language was like a peasant child's with turtle-soup; +perhaps "a lick and a promise" would best explain it. But though only +knowing a few words, which he pronounced with the vilest of accents, +and then only when he had inserted his glass in his eye, he brought +them out with ludicrous frequency whenever he had the chance. Here are +examples--"_Hi garsong!_ bring me another plate!" "_Garsong +poorquar_ don't you fetch some bread when I've asked three times for +it?" "_Hi garsong! sil voo plate_, where are those potatoes?" And +so on all through dinner; while he appeared rather to enjoy the +merriment he caused, thinking he must have said something really good, +although of course he hadn't the slightest idea what it was! + +To sketchers and lovers of contrasts a visit to Fuenterabia cannot fail +to prove a treat, and a better specimen of an old Spanish town it would +be difficult to find. The only convenient train in the morning thither +leaves early, and although we preferred driving, we made an early start +too, in order to spend a long day. Having accomplished the eight miles +and arrived at St. Jean de Luz, we had still a distance of 8 miles more +before reaching Hendaye, the frontier town. There were occasional +pretty bits of country to be seen, especially in the vicinity of +Urrugne (10-1/2 miles), a village in which the Spanish element is +noticeable, but the succession of poplars along the roadside all the +way--more or less--to Béhobie, was very monotonous. At Béhobie (14-1/2 +miles) the road to Hendaye leaves the direct route to Spain and +branches off to the right. Following this, we were soon at the +frontier. Hendaye (16 miles) is celebrated for its cognac and a certain +liquor called by its name, as well as for an excellent beach and +bathing establishment, beyond which there is little worth mention. +Having put up the horses at the Hôtel de France, we repaired to the +jetty, where happily the tide was high enough to permit of our being +ferried across, instead of carried on the back of some brawny (and +garlicky) native. As we were half-rowed, half-poled, down the narrow +winding channel of the Bidassoa, we were once again indubitably "'twixt +France and Spain," though the vicinity of the ancient Spanish town, and +the lazy sentinels on the river's bank, made the scene much more +Spanish than French. Once landed, we strolled slowly across the +"_Embarcadéro_," and entered the town by the ancient gateway. The +principal street, which we then ascended, is indeed picturesque. The +miniature verandahs and overhanging roofs of the houses, the latter +approaching so close to one another as nearly to permit of shaking +hands across; an occasional bright costume appearing at the window or +on the verandah; the old church higher up the street, and the battered +"Castilio" at the top, furnished ample materials for a very pleasant +sketch. The church is well worth a visit, being very old and of +interesting appearance. Owing to its sheltered position it did not +suffer nearly as much as most of the buildings from the missiles in the +late Carlist war. We passed several groups of lazy soldiers, who leered +at us offensively and made some uncomplimentary remarks, but +otherwise--beyond the fact that the women stared a good deal when Miss +Blunt attempted to sketch--we met with no discourtesy. The new casino +proves an "extra" attraction in summer, but it is to be regretted that, +for gambling purposes alone, many people should be drawn to this quaint +old-world town, so worthy of a visit for its picturesqueness alone. + +At the time when we wished to visit San Sebastien we learnt that the +"Citadol" was closed to visitors, owing to some foreigner having +foolishly lighted his cigar near a powder magazine. As the "Citadol" is +the chief attraction, we penned a highly polite letter to his +Excellency the Governor of the Province, asking for his permission to +visit this otherwise forbidden ground. + +We received a most gracious reply, to the effect that, whenever we +liked to come, the place was at our disposal, and accordingly selected +the first fine morning for our trip. On this occasion we formed a party +large enough for a coach and four, but were very careful to avoid a +repetition of our Bétharram experiences. + +We discovered no new features of interest as far as Béhobie, but the +day being very clear, we had a fine view of the distant Pyrenees and +the Spanish coastline from various points along the road. Passing +through Béhobie's narrow streets and crossing the Bidassoa by the +strong stone bridge, we were only a minute "'twixt France and Spain," +and entering Irun found ourselves in the hands of the Customs +authorities. Having "nothing to declare" and nothing contraband +undeclared, we were soon permitted to proceed, although our "cocher" +almost immediately afterwards stopped to change horses. Accordingly, we +walked on up a pretty lane with ivied walls, near which--in the +background--stood an old church. Finding a comfortable place for +lunching in the vicinity, we awaited the arrival of the coach, and +discussed our hamper before again moving on. Not having too much time, +however, we did not delay long, and remounting, bowled merrily along to +"Pasages." This was once the safest port on the coast, and in fact is +yet; but the accumulation of sand, &c., at the entrance, has made it +practically useless for any ships but those of very light draught. It +forms a tidal basin, and houses are built on its sides, along one of +which the road for some time skirts, but afterwards assumes a straight +course and descends into San Sebastien. From the highest point of the +road, before we commenced descending, we had a splendid view of the +town, which looked busy, imposing, and clean. + +When once inside, we drove to the Hôtel de Londres; then crossed the +street to the guardhouse, presented our "permit" for the "Citadol," and +after a little fuss and _red tapeism_--such as Spaniards, even +more than Frenchmen, dearly love--under the guidance of a soldier, +commenced the ascent. How many times we presented our "carta" we know +not, but at every turn some official was ready to ask to see it, and +this business took almost as long as the actual mounting, though in the +end we did manage to reach the summit. The view from thence was very +fine, extending for miles in all directions, but after enjoying it for +a short time, we descended to visit the graves of the English who fell +in defending the place in 1836 against the Carlists, which lie in a +little cemetery on one side of the hill. Maiden-hair ferns grow among +the rocks by the path, which from time to time discloses views of the +town and the pretty rocky island--Santa Clara--in the bay. After +descending, we had time for a glimpse at the interior of the church of +Santa Maria and the bull-ring, as well as a stroll along the beautiful +beach, before it was necessary to start homewards, and when at length +we were deposited in safety at our hotel, we all acknowledged that the +day had been a very pleasant one indeed! With such enjoyable drives, +and the tennis, and the ever-changing sea, we never found time hang +heavily on our hands; and if we had, there was the little railway to +carry us into the bustle of Bayonne for shopping or listening to the +band, where _ennui_ would speedily have been driven away. Speaking +of this railway reminds us that at Anglêt, one of the stations on the +line, there is a very interesting convent of "Silent Sisters" within +easy access from the train. Although it is a sad sight to see all these +women deluded with the notion that their sins, however great, could not +be pardoned without such a bitter expiation; yet the order and +cleanliness that is patent everywhere, and the gardens and greenhouses, +lend an attraction to the place in spite of its melancholy +associations. [Footnote: Visitors are expected to purchase a specimen +of the needlework exhibited to them, or at any rate to put a donation +in the convent box.] + +When June has succeeded May, Biarritz begins to empty of its English +and American visitors, to give place in July to the Spaniards and +French. On the 15th of that month prices go up with a bound, often +becoming double and even treble what they were during the winter +season. This is the time to stroll on the "Plage" and watch the +bathing; to note the varied costumes, see the merry faces, and listen +to the children's laughter, mingled with the splash of the waves. But +we are only treating of spring, so must not encroach upon summer; +but--following our countrymen's example--bid "Au revoir" to Biarritz +before the glare forces us to parade the streets with blue spectacles +and double-lined parasols. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +CONCLUSION. + +"Where duty leads"--Resorts in the Eastern Pyrenees--Caen--"Riou"--Our +paths diverge--"The Lesson of the Mountains"--Farewell. + + +Although we have in reality come to the end of our tour, and have +consequently no more places to discourse on, it may be suggested that +our task is but badly ended if we omit to mention such resorts as +Amélie, Vernet, Molitg, and other spots, which, if of less importance +than those we have visited, are nevertheless _in_ the Pyrenees. +That they are _in_ the Pyrenees cannot be disputed, but being in +the eastern portion, the way of reaching them from the resorts among +the western heights is so roundabout, that but few people would think +of visiting both. However, for the information of any intending +travellers, we have collected what reliable facts we could about the +above-mentioned places--as well as Capvern, Preste-les-Bains, +Panticosa, and a few others--which will be found in the general +information [Footnote: See Appendix A.] at the end of the volume, and +will, we trust, be of service. + +We have but little left us now to do but to take our leave, though we +have one little incident to record, which, though it occurred far from +the Pyrenees, resulted, nevertheless, from our visit. + +Travelling slowly homeward by the route through Normandy to Cherbourg, +we stopped a few days at the delightful town of Caen. While there--in +consequence of negotiations that had been carried on for some +time--Miss Blunt had her desires gratified by the arrival of a fine +Pyrenean puppy--like a small white bear with brown points--from +Cauterets, one of the identical pair about which we had such a lively +scene with the old French fancier. He was christened "Riou," after the +Col of that name, and his owner has very kindly drawn his portrait among +his native hills, to adorn these pages. + +[Illustration: "MY PAW IS ON MY NATIVE HEATH, AND MY NAME IS 'RIOU.'"] + +Our party did not break up till we reached Weymouth, but after that our +ways diverged. We were by no means glad to part, the memories of our +trip being very pleasant ones, and we can hardly think of a more +delightful way of spending a couple of months than in driving about +these beautiful mountains. The people are so pleasant, and hotels so +moderate (in the spring-time), and the country in the full beauty of +spring is at its best; and yet, as a rule, the few English and +Americans who do go, wait till the season begins, with its crowds, +heat, and extra expense, and the fiery sun has effectually cleared the +mountains of that snowy mantle which was their greatest charm. + +We were once asked, "Are not the Pyrenees very bare mountains, without +any trees or herbage?" We could only repeat, what we have so often +asserted in this book, that the foliage on the mountain slopes is +magnificent, and their fertility and wealth of flora are of the highest +order. + +They are indeed so beautiful in every way that they cannot fail to +touch many a chord in the heart of any lover of nature. At one moment +hid in mists, at another clear and stately under a cloudless sky; in +winter, wrapped completely in their garb of snow, trees and grass and +rocks and all, only to reappear under spring's influence, still +retaining their snowy crown, but with their slopes bright with the +contrasting tints of beech and fir, oak and maple, interspersed with +banks of bright gentian and fields of golden daffodils; what could be +more lovely than a scene such as this, with the morning sun gilding the +snow summits, or the last rays of a roseate sunset lingeringly bidding +them "Farewell"? + +As we then follow their example, we do not think we could make a more +fitting ending than these lines, written amid those lovely scenes, and +entitled + + +"THE LESSON OF THE MOUNTAINS." + + Look on yon mountain peaks, + Mark how each summit seeks +Upward to lift its crest, base earth to spurn. + Tow'ring above the plain, + Over the weak and vain, +Ever for realms of light seeming to yearn. + + Look at each snowy crown, + Whiter than softest down, +Oh! in what majesty thus are they drest! + See how the setting sun + Kisses them one by one, +And slowly, solemnly, goes to his rest. + + Look to the brilliant sky; + --Dark though the clouds be, nigh-- +Wavelets of gold grandly float 'neath the blue. + Mark where the shades of green + Mingle with crimson's sheen, +Till evening's dread decree curtains the view. + + Hark to the drenching rain! + Hark how it beats the pane! +While the fierce fitful blast sweeps on its course. + Fiercer yet swells the gale, + Hark to the long-drawn wail! +Tenfold more dire--in the darkness--its force. + + * * * * * + + See! morning's golden rays, + Breaking night's gloomy haze, +Tinge with a burning glow every proud height; + Storms beat on them in vain, + Steadfast they will remain, +Till the eternal day swallows up night. + + * * * * * + + So may thy soul aspire + Ever to climb up higher, +Spurning the world's delights, caring for none; + Shunning vain pomps and shows, + Seeking but calm repose +In the "Hereafter," when life is done. + +[Illustration: "See! morning's golden rays, Breaking night's gloomy +haze, Tinge with a burning glow every proud height."] + + So may'st thou yearn to wear, + Like ev'ry angel there, +Vestment as pure as snow, spotlessly white; + And on thy face to shine +That radiancy divine, +God's own unquenchable, immortal light. + +[Illustration] + + And, if life's courses seem + Pleasant, like some sweet dream, +Be thou beware of the evils around: + Paths seeming paved with gold + Oft mighty sins enfold, +Oft where the sea looks still, quicksands abound. + + Or should the trials come, + Shatt'ring thy earthly home, +Dashing fond hopes and despoiling thy life: + Meekly thy burden bear + To Jesus' throne, and there +Thou wilt find rest and help--strength for the strife. + + Then, when Heav'n's morning breaks, + And ev'ry soul forsakes +This baser earth, and flies to its last rest, + Chastened by cold and heat, + Wash'd by the storms that beat, +Oh, may thy spirit soar 'mid God's own blest! + + +THE END. + + + + +APPENDIX A. + +GENERAL INFORMATION CONCERNING THE PRINCIPAL TOWNS AND VILLAGES IN THE +PYRENEES, INCLUDING NOTES ON THE MEDICAL PROPERTIES OF THE BATHS AT THE +CHIEF RESORTS, AND THE EXCURSIONS IN THE VICINITY. + + +N.B.--_The following sign (||) attached to hotels, &c., in this +portion of the book, signifies that the Author can personally give his +recommendation._ + +AMÉLIE-LES-BAINS [Footnote: For routes thither see Appendix B.] +(678 ft.), on the River Tech, in the Eastern Pyrenees. A winter resort, +with a dry, clear air, tonic and slightly irritant, and a mean +temperature during the months of January, February, and March (taken +collectively) of 48-1/3° Fahr. The average number of fine days in the +year is 210. The baths are naturally heated from 100° to 144°, +according to the distance from the source. They contain soda in +combination with sulphur, carbon, and silica, with a very small +proportion of the carbonates of iron and lime. They are recommended in +skin diseases, affections of the throat and kidneys, and for chronic +rheumatism. The season lasts throughout the year. + +Bathing Establishments.--Thermes Pujade; Thermes Romains. With +hotel accommodation at both. + +Hotels.--Pujade, Romains; Du Kursal, Farret, and Martinet. + +Post and Telegraph Office, Cafés, Casino, Theatre, &c.--Living +is by no means expensive. In the first-named hotels the charge per diem +ought not to exceed 7frs. 50c. for "pension"; in the others it is +cheaper. The bathing establishments have excellent accommodation, +twenty-seven baths, a large swimming bath, inhaling rooms, etc.: There +are doctors in connection with the baths and others resident in the +town. The scenery around is very pretty, and rich in groves of olive, +cherry, cork, and fig trees, besides banks of heather and ferns, and +clusters of honeysuckle. + +The Chief Excursions are:-- + +Prats de Mollo (2618 ft.), 12 1/2 miles by mule path--15 by +road; carriage (23 francs with pourboire) 5 1/4 hours. + +Inns.--Maillard; Guin-Come. + +Preste-les-Bains, 19 miles--8 1/2 hours; carriage 33 francs with +pourboire. + +Roc de France (4698 ft.): splendid view; 6 1/2 hours there and +back. A stiff climb, fully compensated for by the expanse of scenery to +be seen from the summit. + +Gouffre de la Fou, 4 hours there and back--guide necessary to +descend to the bottom of the "Gouffre," for which the "espadrilles" +(cord sandals) must be worn. + +Col de Faitg, Massanet, 6 hours there and back--a very charming +and picturesque excursion. + +La Junguera, 20 miles; carriage 23 francs, i.p. [Footnote: +i.p., including pourboire.] The first Spanish village over the +frontier; an interesting drive. + +Le Pertus (958 ft.) 152 miles. There and back 6 hours. Carriage +23 francs, i.p. [Footnote: i.p., including pourboire.] + +From Amélie to Perpignan, or vice versa, 23 1/2 miles; a +carriage with luggage costs 28 francs, i.p. [Footnote: i.p., including +pourboire.] + +Carriages and Horses may be hired at Labrunie's or Victor +Olive's. + +Guide.--Bertrand Oms at Aries. + + +ARCACHON [Footnote: The Chaplain, Mr. Radcliffe, has issued an +excellent guide-book for the locality.]--Situated in the forest, and on +the shores of the basin of the same name. The English season is in +winter, the French in summer. A favourite resort on account of its mild +and sedative climate. Most people live in villas in the forest during +the winter, where the strong winds are not felt, and where the mean +temperature is 50° Fahr. The calmness of the atmosphere, and the strong +scent from the pines, has a beneficial tendency for those suffering +from chest complaints. + +To those who find it relaxing, Biarritz is recommended as a suitable +change. + +Hotels.--Grand (on the Plage), Continental, Grand du Forêt, &c. + +Pensions.--Villa Riquet || (Mons. Ollé, proprietor), Villa +Montretout, Villa Peyronnet, and Villa Buffon. + +Chaplain.--Rev. W. Radcliffe. + +English Church, in the forest; services every Sunday. + +Cabs, during the day from 6 A.M. to 8 P.M. The course: + +1-1/2 frs. with one horse; 2 frs. with two horses; by the hour, 2-1/2 +and 3 frs. respectively. + +Horses and Donkeys, 2 frs. and 1 fr. the hour, respectively. + +Boats, from 2 frs. the hour, by arrangement. + +Bankers and Money Changers.--Dubos and Mauriac, opposite Grand +Hotel. + +Post and Telegraph Office, Chemists, Grocers, &c. + +Casino. + +Principal Drives and Excursion are:-- + +To Moulleau, 2 miles through the forest. + +To La Teste, 3 miles. + +To the Oyster Beds, in the centre of the bay, on the Ile des +Oiseaux. + +To the Lighthouse at Cape Ferret, across the basin, whence the +Biscay can be seen. + +To the Dune de la Grave by boat, and across the forest to La +Teste, visiting the giant trees (this must only be undertaken with an +experienced guide). + +ARGELÈS (1528 ft.), on the River Azun, in the Hautes-Pyrénées; +with a genial climate that makes it a favourite resort very early in +the year. Some few people use it as a winter abode also. Living costs +"en pension" from 9 to 14 frs. per diem. + +Hotels.--De France; D'Angleterre || (cheaper than the France). + +Carriages.--At Limoges, || can be hired for the afternoon +--with one horse, 5 frs.; 2 horses, 8 frs.; 4 horses, 10 frs.; or by +the day, or for any special excursion. + +Horses, also from M. Limoges. For the afternoon, 4 frs.; for the +day, 8 to 10 frs. (N.B.--These are spring prices, and not those of the +season.) + +Chemist.--M. Bualé, near the Post Office. + +Post and Telegraph Office, and a few shops. + +The Chief Excursions are:-- + +To the Villages of Ges, Serres, Salles, and Ourous--a lovely +ride, 2 hours; horses, 4 frs. each, pourboire, 1/2 fr. + +Drive round the Valley, via Argelès station, the Chateau de +Beaucens, Pierrefitte, and St. Savin, 2 hours 30 min.; carriage with 4 +horses, 11 frs. 50 c., i.p. + +Le Balandrau (1729 ft.). Lovely walk; one hour there and back. + +Pic de Pibeste (4548 ft.) An easy climb: splendid view from the +summit. + +ARGELES-SUR-MER, 13-3/4 miles from Perpignan. In the midst of +fertile fields. Ruins of the Castle de Pujols in the vicinity. + +Hotels.--D'Angleterre, De France. + +ARLES-SUR-TECH (909 ft.), in the Eastern Pyrenees. Chief town of +the canton and the principal commercial centre in the Tech valley. +2-1/2 miles from Amélie, which was formerly known as Arles-les-Bains. +Trade with Algeria in apples; and in whip-handles with the whole of +France. Old twelfth-century church in the town; and outside, behind a +grating, lies the tomb of the Saints Abdon and Sennen. + +Hotels.--Rousseau, Pujade. + +ARREAU (2190 ft.), at the junction of the valley of Louron with +the Aure valley, in the "Hautes-Pyrénées," 23-3/4 miles from Bagnères +de Bigorre and 19-1/4 from Luchon, on the direct mountain road. (Route +Thermale.) + +Hotels.--De France, || D'Angleterre. + +Post and Telegraph Office, Chemist, Grocer, &c. + +In the town are the Chapelle de St. Exupère, with a good view from the +belfry; the Church of Notre Dame; and the ancient market-place. There +are manganese mines in the vicinity. + +Excursions to Cardiac, 2 miles. Sulphurous baths, with hotel +accommodation. + +To the forest of Riou-majou and the falls of Mail-Blanc and Ejet. Over +the Col de Plan to the Spanish villages of St. Juan, Gestain, &c. Up +the Vallée de Lastié to the Monné de Luchon (7044 ft.). + +ARRENS (2950 ft.), in the valley of Azun, in the High Pyrenees, +on the Route Thermale, between Eaux Bonnes (19 miles) and Argelès +(7-1/2 miles). + +Hotels.--De France et de la Poste, De la Paix. + +Guides.--Jean Lacoste, M. Gleyre. + +Excursions (for which it is an excellent starting-point).--Mont +Bâlétous, 10,318 ft. (the most dangerous point for the ascent--from +Eaux Bonnes it is much easier), 4 hours to the summit. Guide absolutely +necessary. + +Lac Miguelon and Pic d'Arrouy--11 hours there and back; a +much-recommended trip. + +Pic de Cambalés, 9 hours (9728 ft.); an easy ascension; recommended. + +ARUDY, in the Basses-Pyrénées, on the direct road from Oloron to +Eaux Bonnes or Chaudes; 17-1/4 miles from Oloron and 2 from +Louvie-Juzon. Grotte d'Arudy in the vicinity. + +ASPIN, a small village in the Aure valley, Hautes-Pyrénées, +below the Col of the same name, on the road between Bigorre and Luchon. + +ASTÉ, a village at the entrance to the Gorge de Lhéris, near +Bagnères de Bigorre--to which refer. Ruins of an ancient castle in +which Gabrielle d'Estrelle lived. Church of 16th century. Visited by +Pitton de Tounefort, the naturalist. + +BAGNÈRES DE BIGORRE (1808 ft.), standing at the mouth of the fine +valley of Campan and the lesser one of Salut. It is one of the most +celebrated bathing resorts in the Pyrenees, and is very rich in +springs. The climate is mild, and while the season only lasts from the +1st of June to the 15th of October, several English make it a residence +all the year round. It is in a great measure protected from the winds, +though they blow occasionally strongly and chillily; snow is a rare +visitor in the town, and with Argelès it shares the honour of being +among the earliest "changes of air" from the warmth of Pau. There are +nearly 50 springs divided between 17 establishments, and there is +hardly any known or unknown malady for which they cannot be +recommended. They may be divided into four classes: 1st, saline; 2nd, +ferruginous; 3rd, saline and ferruginous; 4th, sulphurous. They are all +naturally heated. The temperature ranges from 64° to 123° Fahr.; and +amongst the hottest is the "Salies," which contains a certain limited +quantity of arsenic, and is only used for drinking purposes. It is said +to be beneficial in laryngitis, ulcerous diseases, and affections of +the mouth and throat. + +The Principal Establishment is known as the Thermes de +Marie-Therèse, and contains 7 different springs, and 38 baths of +Pyrenean marble. In the winter the price for a bath (simple) varies +from 1 fr. to 1 fr. 60 cents, including linen. For a douche-bath 1 fr.; +a footbath 60 cents; and for other varieties from 1 fr. 25 cents to 3 +frs. Every visit to the drinking-fountain costs 10 cents. In summer a +simple bath costs from 1 fr. 25 cents to 2 frs., and douche-bath the +same, while the others range from 1 fr. 25 cents to 5 frs. + +The other most important establishments are those of Grand Pré, Santé, +Salut, and Lassère, while the water of Labassère is brought daily to +the town for drinking purposes. + +This water of Labassère is sulphurous, and is considered highly +beneficial in cases of chronic bronchial catarrh, congestion of the +lungs, pulmonary consumption, spasmodic coughs, skin diseases, and +chronic laryngitis. See Labassère in Appendix. + +Grand Pré has three springs, in all of which iron is present; +two are naturally heated, and are considered efficacious in scrofulous +diseases, nervous rheumatism, and general debility. The other spring, +which is cold and used only for drinking purposes, has a decided tonic +action. + +Santé possesses two sources, one of which is artificially +heated; they are of a saline nature. These are _par excellence_ +the "Ladies' Springs," and have great efficacy in cases of overwork, +shock to the nervous system, general nervousness, and neuralgia. + +Salut possesses three sources of different temperatures, +employed in baths and for drinking purposes, as well. Except in very +hot weather the water is inodorous, but its sedative properties have +placed it in the first rank. It has been used with great benefit in all +nervous complaints, hypochondria, hysteria, intestinal complaints, +indigestion, &c., its action being also diuretic. + +Lasserre has one source only, slightly bitter and inodorous, +containing sulphate of magnesia, which renders its action laxative. It +is useful in cases of obesity, liver affections, and others of that +type. + +For the other establishments and springs, which have likewise their +special uses, the reader is referred to the 'Guide to Bigorre,' and +Joanne's Guide-book to the Pyrenees. + +Hotels.--Beau Séjour; Paris; De Londres et d'Angleterre; Du bon +Pasteur; Frascati; &c. &c. + +Banker and Money Changer.--D. Ortalis, 16 Place +Lafayette. + +Doctors.--(In summer only) Dr. Bagnall from Pau, Promenade St. +Martin. Dr. Couzier, 27 Rue du Théâtre (all the year). Dr. Dejeau, 30 +Allée de Coustous (ditto). + +Chemists.--M. Nogues, Place Lafayette; and M. Jouaneton, 22 +Place de Strasbourg. + +Restaurant.--M. Vignes, Place Lafayette. + +Nurses.--Les Soeurs de l'Esperance, 9 Avenue de Salut. + +Draper.--Cornet, Allée des Constons, No. 22. + +Grocer (selling English goods of all kinds).--M. Peltier, 5 +Boulevard du Collège. + +Confectioners.--Mdme. Cheval, Rue du Centre, 19. M. Toujas, No. +10 same street. + +Carriages.--Courtade, Place des Pyrenees, No. 14; Pourponnet, 3 +Rue Labrun. + +Horses.--Bourdettes, 25 Place Lafayette. + +There is service all the year in the small English Church, and the +present chaplain, the Rev. J. Grundy, M.A. Oxon., is always willing to +assist visitors in any way, and glad to accept the offer of their +services in the choir. + +The cost of living in the winter averages 10 frs. in the best hotels, +and between 7 and 9 in others; but the prices rise considerably in +summer. + +Post and Telegraph Office, Theatre, Casino, Museum and +Reading-rooms in the town. + +Guides.--Fages, senior and junior, 8 Rue de Lorry; Idrac, Rue +Longue; Arnauné, Rue de Lorry. + +Principal Excursions:--[Footnote: For _full_ particulars of +these and all excursions, the reader is referred to P. Joanne's +'Pyrenees'; Mr. Packe's 'Guide to the Pyrenees for Mountaineers'; and +Count Russell's 'Grandes Ascensions des Pyrénées' (French and +English).] To Aste, Gerde, Lourdes, Campan, Baudean, Ste. Marie, the +Col d'Aspin, and up the Bédat and the Monné. Refer to Chapter II, for +information. + +Caesar's Camp, 2 hrs. there and back, by the village of Pouzac. + +Les Allées dramatiques, 2 hrs. there and back, riding--3 hrs. +on foot; between the Bédat and the Monné, a pretty walk. + +The Slate Quarries and Spring of Labassère, 6 hrs. there and +back; 1-1/4 hrs. to Labassère; 2 hrs. to the Quarries; 3 hrs. to the +Spring. Guide 6 frs.; horses 10 frs. each. + +The Mont-Aigu, 10 hrs. there and back, guide 15 frs. The view +from the summit is immense; it extends over three valleys. + +The Vallée de Lesponne and the "Lac bleu," 9 hrs. there and +back. Carriage-road to the end of valley; mulepath the remainder of the +way. Guide 8 frs., horse 10 frs. + +Gripp (10 miles). Carriage-road all the way. Same road as far as +Ste. Marie as that to Col d'Aspin. + +Pic du Midi de Bigorre, 6 hrs. 45 min. to the summit; Guide 6 +frs., horse 10 frs. A magnificent excursion, but easier from Barèges. + +Pêne de l'Heris, 2 hrs. 45 min. to summit. A pleasant excursion. + +Houn Blanquo, 9 hrs. there and back. Guide 8 frs., horse 10 frs. +A splendid mountain panorama in view, from the summit. + +Puits de la Pindorle [Footnote: See footnote p. 226.]--a natural +ice-cave, spoken of by Mr. Packe as "unique in its kind in the +Pyrenees"--8 hrs. there and back. Guide and ropes necessary. + +BAGNERES DE LUCHON (2065 ft.).--A lovely town in the Western +Pyrenees (Hautes), situated near the junction of the Pique with the +One, at the mouth of the Larboust valley, and in the western angle of +the valley of Luchon. + +The most fashionable of all the Pyrenean watering-places. + +Season.--1st of June to the end of October; but most charming in +May and early June. + +The Bathing Establishment is a very ponderous building, +containing accommodation second to none. The springs are nearly all +naturally heated, varying from 103° to 150° Fahr.; they may be divided +into four classes: 1st, sodium sulphate; 2nd, saline; 3rd, bicarbonate +of iron; 4th, saline, but cold. The sulphur springs are considered the +best and most complete series known; and the iron are principally used +for drinking purposes. The waters of Luchon are considered specially +beneficial for chronic bronchitis, rheumatism (articular and muscular), +vesical catarrh, reopened wounds, fractures, scrofulous and cutaneous +affections, and ulcers. In cases where there are complications, nervous +excitement, or paralysis, a medical man should always be consulted +before venturing to bathe. + +There is an iron spring near the Castelvieil, 1-1/2 miles from Luchon. + +In the "Etablissement Thermal" the terms range from 60 cents to 4 frs. +There are baths of all kinds, and it is advisable, if the bather wishes +to bathe at any special time, that he should enter his name in the book +kept for that purpose, as soon as he arrives. In the season there is +always a great pressure of visitors, and otherwise the bather may have +to wait an hour or two for his turn. There was once a Museum +above the baths, this has now been removed to the splendid +Casino which stands in beautiful grounds, not far from the +Post and Telegraph Office--entrance I franc. + +Hotels.--Canton, || Richelieu (very large but not recommended), +Grand, Bonnemaison, Paris, d'Angleterre, d'Etigny, de France, des +Bains, Monteil, du Parc, de la Paix. + +Apartments.--Of all descriptions, in the Allée des Bains, Rue +Neuve, Cours d'Etigny, Allée des Veuves, &c. &c. + +Doctors.--Several, both attached to the baths and independent. + +Carriage and Horse Proprietors.--Almost innumerable, but Jean +Sanson is recommended, Rue d'Espagne. + +Guides.--For the summits (French): Pierre Barrau, Rue de Pigué, +Aurillon, Lafon fils, Capdeville senior and junior, Fermin Barrau. +(Spanish) Francisco. For ordinary excursions and hunting: Jean and Luis +Sanson; Jean Brunet, chamois-hunter (recommended for all ascensions +from the Lac d'O). + +Tariff for drinking the waters only.--During season, 8 days, 4 +frs.; 20 days, 8 frs.; 30 days, 10 frs. + +Carriage on Hire (from the stand).--The "course," 1 franc; the +hour, 3 frs. for one horse; and 1 fr. 30 cents, and 3 frs. 75 cents +respectively, for two horses--by day. By night, for one horse, 2 frs. +50 cents the "course," and 4 frs. the hour; for two horses, 3 frs. 25 +cents and 5 frs. respectively. + +For all excursions there is a recognised tariff, which may be seen at +the Mairie; and an excellent local guide-book and map is published for +2 frs. by Lafont. + +The Chief Excursions:-- + +For Superbagnères (horses and guide 5 frs. each respectively, +hay on the summit 1 fr. out of the season, but 2 frs. more each person +in the season), Vallée du Lys (20 to 25 frs. for a landau), Bosost +(carriage _via_ St. Béat, 45 frs., horses via the Portillon 5 frs. +each, guide 6 frs.), Montauban (an easy walk), the Orphanage of Notre +Dame du Rocher (a short and pleasant walk), St. Mamet (little more than +1/2 mile), the Rue d'Enfer (an easy climb from the Vallée du Lys), the +Tour de Castelvieil (about two miles from Luchon), &c. &c. Refer to +Chapter X. + +The Val d'Esquierry (4839 ft.), 11 miles.--Carriage-road as far +as Grange d'Astos (25 to 30 frs.) very rich in flora. + +To the Hospice de Prance and the Cascades--des Demoiselles, et du +Parisien, 9 1/4 miles. Carriage-road all the way. Landau, 25 frs.; +but 4 frs. per seat in the Hospice diligence there and back. + +To the Port de Venasque and the Pic de Sauvegarde, returning by +the Port de la Picade; 10 miles to the Port de Venasque--1 hour further +to the summit of the Pic de Sauvegarde; 11 miles from the Port de la +Picade to Luchon. Time, 10 to 11 hours there and back; but this fine +excursion is rendered more enjoyable by sleeping at the Hospice +(_vide_ above), and starting early next day for the summits. + +The Valley Of Oueil and the village of Bourg (9 1/3 +miles). Carriage there and back, 30 frs. From Bourg the Pic de +Montné can be ascended. Splendid sunrise view from summit. Guide +recommended if ascension is made by night; horses 7 frs., guides 10 +frs.; or by day 7 frs. + +Lac d'Oo (10 miles).--Carriage-road for 8 miles. Landau, 25 frs. +This lake, also called Seculejo, is full of salmon-trout, and there is +a very fine cascade (820 ft.) on the far side, to which visitors can be +ferried. Fare for one person 1 1/4 frs.--for more, an arrangement can +be made. There is a small toll levied on every person who visits +this lake--no matter whether they patronise the little inn or not! + +Saint Béat.--By carriage 25 frs., or by rail to Marignac and +diligence afterwards (12 1/2 miles). Refer to Chapter XI. + +L'Antenac.--6 1/2 hours to the summit and back. Horse and guide +each 6 frs. An enjoyable excursion; and the whole distance can be +ridden. + +Pic Spijoles.--4 1/2 hours from the Lac d'Oo--a difficult +ascension. + +Pic de Crabioules.--13 hours up and down. Guide necessary. +Splendid view. + +Pic Quairat.--5 hours from the Lac d'Oo. Guide necessary. + +Le Céciré.--8 hours up and down. Guide and horses 6 frs. each. + +Pic Sacroux,--8 1/2 hours to the summit and back. Very fine +view. + +The Peaks Bacanère and the Pales de Burat (11 3/4 +miles).--9 hours there and back. Horses and guides from 5 to 8 frs. +each, according to season. One of the most charming of all the +excursions from Luchon. + +L'Entécade.--7 hours in all. Guides and horses 6 frs. each. A +much-regimented climb. Splendid view from summit. + +Pic de Poujastou.--8-1/2 hours in all. Guides and horses 6 frs. +each; an easy climb. + +The Mont Maudits or Maladetta Group, the highest in the +range, including the Pic de Nethou (11,169 ft.), Pic 'du Milieu (11,044 +ft.), Pic de la Maladetta (10,867 ft.), Pic d'Albe (10,761 ft.), and +the Pic Fourcanade (9456 ft.), are so difficult and perilous, and +require such excellent guides, that the reader is referred for +information to Mr. Packe's and Count Russell's books, previously +mentioned. + +_Note_.--Carriages from Bigorre to Luchon, 43-1/2 miles, +_via_ Arreau, 80 to 100 frs., 5 to 10 frs. pourboire, out of the +season; 100 to 130 frs., and pourboire 10 frs., in the season. + +BAREGES (4084 ft.), situated in a barren rocky gorge above Luz, +in the Hautes-Pyrénées. It may be called the "Old Soldier's Resort," +as the waters are specially efficacious for gunshot wounds. + +The fine Bathing Establishment contains 30 separate bath-rooms, +besides 3 douche-rooms, a spray-room, foot bath-room, &c. The springs +vary in heat from 71° to 112° Fahr., and are of a similar nature, all +containing large proportions of sulphur and baregine. Dr. Lee says, +"The water when drunk has a diuretic, diaphoretic, and expectorant +action; the bath, by its general and local stimulating properties, +cleanses foul ulcers,... promotes the exfoliation of carious portions +of bone and subsequent cicatrisation, and frequently causes foreign +bodies which have been long imbedded ... to make their way to the +surface." It is also highly beneficial for old bullet-wounds, neuralgic +affections, rheumatic pains, and stiff joints. + +Hotels.--Del'Europe, De France, Des Pyrénées, Richelieu. Board +and lodging from 10 to 15 frs. per day in the season (15th of June to +September). No hotels open in winter, as the village is covered with +snow. + +The Climate even in summer is variable--great heat is frequently +followed by great cold, necessitating the wearing of woollen +under-clothing, which should always be taken. + +Bathing Tariff, &c.--Baths and douches from I fr. to 2 frs. 50 +cents. For each visit to the drinking-room 5 cents; subscription for +one month, 10 frs. + +Apartments.--One room, from 2 frs. 50 cents to 6 frs. per day, +according to position and size. + +Doctors at the Establishment, a few independent, and others from +Luz. + +[Illustration: TWIXT FRANCE AND SPAIN PANORAMA OF THE HIGHER PYREAN +CHAIN.----VIEW TAKEN FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE PIC DU MIDI DE BIGORRE.] + +Post and Telegraph Office in the season. + +Carriages, Horses, and Asses in abundance; apply at the hotels. + +Guides.--Of the 1st class: Bastien, Teinturier, Michael Pontis, +Menvielle, &c. &c. for the lofty peaks; several of the 2nd class for +minor excursions. + +Chief Excursions::-- + +For the Promenade Horizontale and the Vallée de Lienz, refer to +Chapter VI. + +Pic de Néré.--6 hrs. there and back. Beware of vipers. + +Pic du Midi de Bigorre.--8 hrs. up and down. Guide and horses, 5 +frs. each. The favourite excursion in the vicinity, and one of the +finest in the Pyrenees. The panorama which is annexed is on a fine day +truly magnificent. Horses can be taken to the summit, where there is an +excellent inn. + +Lacs d'Escoubous.--2 hrs. to the Lac d'Escoubous; 2 hrs. 30 min. +to the Lac Blanc; 2 hrs. return. Guide 4 to 6 frs., horses ditto. + +Pic d'Ayré.--6 to 7 hrs. up and down. Horses can be taken within +1/2 hr. of summit. Guide 6 frs., horses ditto. + +Pic de Lienz.--5 hrs. up and down. A pleasant climb. See Chapter +VI. + +Le Néouville.--12 hrs. by the Col d'Aure, there and back. Guide +necessary--10 frs. Splendid view over all the higher Pyrenees. + +BAUDÉAN.--A village in the Campan valley on the Route Thermale, +between Bigorre and Luchon, in the Hautes-Pyrénées. + +BAYONNE.--City and first-class fortress in the Basses-Pyrénées, +on the Adour and the Nive, standing some 2 miles from the shores of the +terrible Biscay Bay. On the direct line from Bordeaux to Biarritz and +Spain. + +Hotels.--St. Etienne, Du Commerce, Ambassadeurs, St. Martin, De +la Bilbaïna, De la Guipuzcoäna, and Du Panier fleuri. Rail to Négresse +station for Biarritz; also narrow-gauge railway to Biarritz _viâ_ +Anglet. + +Splendid twin-towered cathedral, ancient fortifications, &c. Excellent +market and good shops, which are more reasonable than at Biarritz. + +Post and Telegraph Office, English Vice-Consulate, &c. + +Cabs.--The course 1 fr., the hour 2 frs. 25 cents and 50 cents +extra respectively for 2 horses. + +Chocolate.--Fagalde. + +Excursions to Cambo (10 miles), Croix de Mouguère, £c., see Chapter +XIII. + +BÉHOBIE.--A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, on the direct road +to Spain, 14-1/4 miles from Biarritz. + +BÉTHARRAM.--A pleasantly-situated village in the +Basses-Pyrénées, once a favourite pilgrimage. There is a lovely bridge +in the vicinity, and the Via Crucis just midway between the village and +the bridge. It is situated on the direct road from Pau to Lourdes, and +is 15 miles distant from the former, and 9-1/4 from the latter. The +station on the railway, "Montaut-Bétharram," is about 2 miles from the +village. + +Inns.--De la Poste, De France. Celebrated grotto in the +vicinity. + +BIARRITZ, a favourite English winter resort on the shores of +the Biscay, in the Basses-Pyrénées--2 miles from the Négresse station +on the direct line to Spain, and 130 miles from Bordeaux. Living during +the winter is considerably cheaper than at Pau, but the winds are much +stronger and the air more bracing. Biarritz makes a valuable change +from both Pau and Arcachon. It is free from epidemics, and beneficial +in cases of paralysis, as well as chest and heart complaints. + +Hotels.--De Paris et de Londres, || Il Grand Hotel, D'Angleterre +(the favourite hotel with English people), Des Ambassadeurs, De France, +Il Des Princes, De l'Europe, De la Poste, &c. + +Apartments.--All over the town, varying in price according to +position. Maison Brocq, || Maison Larrodé, || Maison Broquedis. + +English Pension.--Villa du Midi, || Rue des Champs. + +Doctors.--Dr. Welby, || Rue Gambetta. Dr. Malpas; Dr. +Girdlestone. + +Carriages.--Maümus, || Place St. Eugenie. Larrondat, Place de la +Marie. + +Libraries.--One in connection with the English Church. Lending +library at Victor Benquet's, Place de la Marie (stationer, £c.). + +Confectioners.--Figue, || Rue Mazagran; Miremont.|| Place de la +Marie. + +Photographer.--P. Frois, Rue du Port Vieux. + +Banker.--E. H. Bellairs, Esq. (Vice Consul), International +Bank. + +"Depot Anglais," for wines, groceries, and English provisions, +&c. + +English Club, Post and Telegraph Office. + +For principal excursions refer to Chapter XIII. + +BIDART.--The first Basque village, 3 miles from Biarritz on the +direct route to Spain--railway station, Bidart-Guétary. + +BIELLE.--A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, on the road to Eaux +Bonnes, in the Val d'Ossau, 18-1/4 miles from Pau. Inn, des Voyageurs. + +BILHÈRES.--A village on the slopes of the Val d'Ossau, above +Bielle, in the Basses-Pyrénées--celebrated for the copper mines in the +vicinity. It lies in the direct track from the Val d'Ossau to the +Vallée d'Aspe. + +BlLLÈRES.--A small village near Pau, in the Basses-Pyrénées on +the road to the ancient town of Lescar: the locally well-known "Bois de +Billères" take their name from it. + +BIZANOS.--A village below Pau, on the Gave, in the +Basses-Pyrénées, on the direct road to Lourdes. + +BOO-SILHEN.--A village and railway station on the line from +Lourdes to Pierrefitte, in the Hautes-Pyrénées. There is the site of an +ancient camp in the vicinity. + +BOSOST.--A village in Spain (18 miles from Luchon by the +Portillon), under the shadow of the Eastern Pyrénées, in the valley of +Aran. This is a most pleasing excursion from Luchon, either on +horseback viâ the Portillon, or in a carriage viâ St. Béat. See Chapter +X. Inn, Fonda d'España. + +CAMBO.--A small picturesquely-situated bathing resort on the +banks of the Nive, 10 miles from Bayonne, in the Basses-Pyrénées. A +favourite excursion from Biarritz, with the extra attraction of good +fishing. + +Bathing Establishment, with a hot sulphur and cold ferruginous +spring. The former has proved useful for its diuretic and laxative +qualities, and efficacious in cases of languor following long +illnesses: the latter is very rich in iron, and a useful tonic. + +The Climate is exceedingly healthy in spring and autumn, but too +warm in summer. + +Hotel.--St. Martin. + +Chocolate Manufactory.--Monsieur Fagalde's. + +Doctor.--M. Albert Dotézac. + +Carriages, Horses, and Asses, at various rates. + +CAMPAN (2192 ft.)--A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées (3-3/4 miles +from Bigorre) situated in the valley of the same name--on the direct +road from Bigorre to Luchon; possesses an ancient church and +market-place. + +CAPVERN.--A bathing resort in the Hautes-Pyrénées, built on a +hill two miles distant from the bathing establishments, which are +erected in a narrow ravine. One of the stations on the main line +between Toulouse and Pau, being 78 miles distant from the former and 56 +from the latter. The climate is mild, and the season lasts from the 15th +of May to the 1st of November. + +Two Bathing Establishments--De Hount-Caoudo and de Bouridé. The +water principally contains sulphate of lime with a small proportion of +carbonate of iron: its action is diuretic and laxative. It is an +excellent and bracing tonic, stimulating to the digestion, and has also +been beneficially employed in cases of catarrh and certain liver +complaints. The Hount-Caoudo spring has an exciting tendency; that of +Bouridé a sedative one. + +Hotels.--Grand, Beau Séjour, De Fontaine, De la Paix, Des Bains, etc. + +Post and Telegraph Office in the season. CASTETS.--A small +picturesquely-situated village in the Hautes-Pyrénées--off the high +road between Pau and Eaux Bonnes--under a mile from Louvie Juzon. +Lodging can be obtained at M. Fouga's. + +CAUTERETS (3254 ft.)--A town situated in the gorge of the same name in +the Hautes-Pyrénées, seven miles distant from Pierrefitte, the terminus +of the line from Lourdes. It is said to be the most rich in mineral +waters of any resort in the Pyrenees. From its position in a hollow, +surrounded by lofty and beautiful mountains, it is frequently visited +with a good deal of rain, and the climate is subject to severe changes +in temperature, especially in spring, when the mornings and nights are +cold. The season proper begins about the middle of June and lasts to +the 15th of September. Living out of the season averages about 10 frs. +per diem, but is much greater when once July has arrived, and +consequently it is always best to write and make terms beforehand. + +There are Nine Establishments for the Waters, among which twenty-four +springs are divided. The springs may be classed under two +heads--firstly, sodium sulphate; 2ndly, saline--both naturally heated. + +The three most important establishments are--Les Oeufs, La RaÃllère, +and Les Thermes de Vieux César. The others are--Le Rocher-Rieumiset, +Manhourat et Les Yeux, Pauze Vieux, Pauze Nouveaux, Petit St. Sauveur, +and Le Pré; in addition to which there are two "buvettes," known as +Buvette de César and Le Bois. The waters at the César Vieux are the +most exciting of all, and prove beneficial in scrofulous and cutaneous +affections, rheumatism, and tumours. Les Oeufs are specially +efficacious in lung complaints; La RaÃllère is used successfully in +affections of the respiratory passages; Mauhourat is specially +recommended to aid the digestion of La RaÃllère's water; while Les Yeux +are beneficial for affections of the eyes--as the name suggests. Le +Petit St. Sauveur is efficacious in cases of hysteria and similar +complaints. + +Hotels.--Du Parc, || Continental, De France, Richelieu, Des Promenades, +Des Boulevards, De la Paix, De Londres, Des Bains, D'Angleterre, etc. + +Apartments to be found in all parts. The price of a single-bedded room +varies from 3 to 10 frs. in the season. Much less at other times. + +Doctors, in connection with the "Thermes," and many independent +ones. + +Chemists.--J. Latapie and M. Broca--both in the Place St. +Martin. + +Confectioners.--Patisserie Suisse, Rue César; Patisserie +Pyrénéenne, Rue de la Raillère. + +Horses and Carriages in plenty--good steeds at +Dominique's, Rue de la Raillère. + +Guides.--Sarrettes, Clément Latour, Latapie, Barraga, Bordenare; +and also Berret, Lac Dominique, and Pont Dominique. + +Post and Telegraph Office, Theatre, Casino, &c. Tariff +for bathing, &c., similar to other resorts. + +Horses for Excursions cost about 12 frs. for the day, for +an ordinary trip 6 frs.; and for a few hours' ride 4 to 5 frs., with 50 +cents to the ostler. + +Carriage from Argelès, 20 frs. with luggage; pourboire 3 +frs. + +The Chief Excursions are:-- + +To the Col de Riou.--Splendid view. Guide 6 frs., horses 6 frs. +Can be prolonged down the opposite side to St. Sauveur. + +To the Cascade de Cérizey, Pont d'Espagne, and Lac de +Gaube.--Guides each 8 frs., horses 6 frs. The favourite trip. + +Le Cabaliros.--6 hrs. up and down. Guide 10 frs., horses 10 frs. + +Le Monné.--7 hrs. up and down. Horses and guide 10 frs. each, +donkey 8 frs. Splendid view. + +Pic d'Enfer.--8-1/2 hrs. and 12 hrs. respectively by the two +routes. Good guides necessary--a difficult climb. + +For the Vallée de Lutour refer to Chapter V. Pic +d'Ardiden.--9 hrs. Guide essential--an interesting climb. + +Pic de Vignemale,--18 to 20 hrs. not including rests. Guides, +hatchets, and ropes necessary. Magnificent view from summit, but a very +difficult trip. + +CIER-de-Luchon.--A small village in the Haute Garonne, 4-1/2 +miles from Luchon on the railway from thence to Montrejeau. +CIERP.--A small village at the foot of a rock in the Pique +valley--dep. Haute-Garonne--near Marignac, station for St. Béat on the +line between Luchon and Montrejeau. COARBAZE.--A village in the +Basses-Pyrénées on the road between Pau and Lourdes. Railway station on +line connecting the above places; 10-1/2 miles from Pau. The ruins of a +castle in the neighbourhood, in which Henry IV. spent his childhood. +Refer to Chapter I. DAX.--A town on the Adour, and junction for +Bordeaux from the Bayonne and Pau lines. Celebrated for its baths, +which are of three kinds, steam, mud, and water. There are several +bathing establishments, but the Grand Etablissement is the best, where +board and lodging can be also obtained, at an all-round figure, +including baths, of from 10 to 15 frs. per diem. These baths are very +useful for affections of the larynx, articular enlargements, and most +kinds of rheumatism and neuralgia. When drunk the water has a tonic and +diuretic effect. + +Hotels.--De la Paix, Du Nord, De France, Figaro, De l'Europe. + +There are enjoyable walks about the town and some old ruins; and in the +vicinity a bed of fossil salt. + +EAUX BONNES is a miniature Spa hemmed in by the sides of a +wooded gorge in the Basses-Pyrénées--27-1/2 miles from Pau and 6-1/4 +from Eaux Chaudes; railway communication as far as Laruns ought now to +be established: refer to Chapter XII. The waters, hot and cold, consist +of five springs, sulphuret of sodium being largely present in all, and +sulphate of lime in a less degree. There are two establishments +--the Grand and the Ortech; but the former is far the most +commodious, though the water is used for drinking purposes almost +more than for bathing. The temperature varies in the different springs +from 54° to 88° Fahr. The waters are specially recommended in cases of +pulmonary consumption and affections of the air passages--also for +chronic maladies of the abdominal viscera, intermittent fevers, +hypochondria, and hysteria. + +The Tariff is similar to that at the other Spas. Season, +July and August. + +The Climate is mild, but warm in summer. + +Hotels.--De France, || Princes, Empereurs, Richelieu, Poste, +Europe, Sallenave, Des Touristes, D'Espagne et d'Orient, De l'Univers, +etc. + +Apartments all over the town. The following are a few of the +houses that let rooms:--Bonnecaze, Pommé, Berdou, Tourné. Living in +hotels during the season costs from 10 to 20 frs., according to +_étage,_ per diem. + +Chemists.--Cazaux fils, and Tourné. + +Confectioners.--Patisserie Suisse. + +Post and Telegraph Office.--The Route Thermale runs from +Eaux Bonnes to Argelès, 26-1/2 miles: see Chapter XII. + +Doctors in connection with the baths, and independent ones. + +Horses and Carriages at the hotels, etc. + +Guides.--Orteig, Lanusse, and Jean Pierre for lofty summits; also +Maucor and Caillau, who, with Lanusse, are Horse proprietors +as well. It is necessary to bargain about prices, as there +is no fixed tariff, but 10 to 13 frs. per diem for ordinary +trips ought to suffice, without providing food--with food, 3 or 4 frs. +less. + +The Chief Excursions are:-- + +For the Col de Gourzy and the Cascades du Valentin refer to Chapter +XII. + +Pic de Ger.--10 to 12 hours there and back. Guide 20 frs. and +provisions necessary. Magnificent view. + +Le Gabizos.--Whole day; provisions, liquor, and guide necessary. +A tiring climb, but one of the finest views in the Pyrenees. + +Pic de Goupey.--7 hours up and down; guide necessary. + +Pic de St. Mont.--9 hours up and down, easy climb, guide not +necessary. + +Lacs d'Anglas et d'Uzious.--Guide and provisions necessary; a +whole day; splendid excursion. + +EAUX CHAUDES.--Another miniature Spa--less contracted in its +position, but equally picturesquely situated in a wild gorge in the +Basses-Pyrénées, 27-1/2 miles from Pau. The climate is bracing, but on +account of the situation of the town it is not so good a residence for +invalids with chest complaints as Eaux Bonnes--as the wind sweeps up +the valley unchecked. It is, however, a glorious place for healthy +people to stay in, and a good centre for excursions. + +The Bathing Establishment is a fine building with good accommodation. +There are seven important springs and two of less consequence; +and they partake of the same nature as those of Eaux Bonnes, +though the temperature extends about 10° Fahr. higher. They are +largely charged with sulphur and lime, in combination with carbon and +soda, and have an exciting action. They are especially useful in cases +of catarrh, rheumatism, cutaneous diseases, and neuralgia. The +"buvettes" of Baudot and Minvielle are largely patronised. + +Hotels.--Baudot, || De France; and more expensive accommodation +at "L'Etablissement Thermal." + +Prices are less than at Eaux Bonnes. In the season they range from 10 +to 16 frs., but from 8 to 12 at other times, "En Pension."--For one day +or less than a week no fixed price can be quoted. + +Doctors.--One in connection with the establishment. + +Horses and Carriages to be obtained at the hotels or from the guides, +who are mostly horse proprietors. + +Guides.--Camy, Labarthe, Larrouy, Eugène Olivan, Jean Sallenave. +Tariff not fixed, but 7 to 9 frs. per diem without providing food is +sufficient, and 5 to 8 frs. for horses--though this is only for +ordinary excursions and not perilous ones. + +Bathing Tariff.--Similar to that of other Spas. + +Chief Excursions are:-- + +Goust.--1 hour there and back; mule track. + +Grotte des Eaux Chaudes.--2 hours there and back--for lights and +permit 1 fr. 50 c. each is charged, guide 2 frs. + +Gabas and the Bious-Artigues.--See Chapter XII. Rather over 8 +miles; carriage road to Gabas, fine and pleasant trip. + +Baths of Panticosa.--13 to 15 hours by the mule track; a +favourite way into Spain. + +To Huesca by Sallent and Jaca, a very lengthy trip, requiring +several days. + +Pic Scarput.--10 hours up and down; a very fine climb. + +Lac d'Artouste.--10 hours up and down; a viper region. + +Pic d'Arriel.--10 hours up and down; an exceedingly fine view +from summit, but not an easy climb. + +Le Balaïtous--14 hours. For ascension only, it is necessary to +have good guides (at least two), as well as provisions, and to pass the +night on the mountain in the Cabanes near the Lac d'Artouste. A +difficult excursion, not unattended with considerable danger. + + +FONTARABIE (Fuenterabia, Sp.). A quaint old Spanish town on the +left bank of the Bidassoa, just across the frontier, well worthy of a +visit. About equidistant from the stations of Hendaye (Fr.) and Irun +(Sp.) on the direct line from Bordeaux to Madrid. A pleasant excursion +from Biarritz. + + +GABAS.--A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, 5 miles from Eaux +Chaudes, near the famous plateau of the Bious-Artigues. Inn +accommodation can be had, and it is a good starting-point for several +excursions. + + +GAN.--A village in the Val d'Ossau in the Basses-Pyrénées, 5 +miles from Pau. The road from Pau forks here, one branch leading to +Oloron (15-1/2 miles), the other to Eaux Bonnes and Eaux Chaudes +(22-1/2 miles). There are some mosaics under a shed in the vicinity. +Hôtel (such as it is), Des Voyageurs. + + +GAVARNIE (4380 ft.). An unpretentious village with good hotel +accommodation, situated among some of the most magnificent scenery in +the Hautes-Pyrénées, 13 miles from Luz. For full description of the +Cirque of Gavarnie refer to Chapter VIII., also for the Falls of +Marboré, 1380 ft. + +Hotels.--Des Voyageurs;|| De la Cascade. + +There are several Mountains to be ascended in the neighbourhood +requiring experienced guides; among which are Le Piméné, the Brèche de +Roland, Le Taillon, Le Gabiétou, Le Marboré, Pic d'Astazou, and the +Mont Perdu; but for further information the traveller is referred to +the previously recommended authorities. + +No Guides have a better reputation than those of Gavarnie, and +of these Henri Passet and Celestin Passet have made all the great +ascents of the French and Spanish Pyrenees; Pierre Pujo, Pierre Brioul, +Poc, and Haurine are also men of experience in mountaineering. + +[Illustration: CIRQUE OF THE VALLÉE DU LYS NEAR BAGNÈRES-DE LUCHON.] + +Horses to the Cirque, 2 frs. each. Guides, 2 frs. each. +Asses, 1 1/2 fr. each. + +GAZOST-les-Bains.--A village in the Vallée du Nez, 7 1/3 miles +from Lugagnan (the nearest station), on the line between Pierrefitte +and Lourdes, in the Basses-Pyrénées. The baths, fed by four cold +sulphurous springs, are less than 3/4 of a mile from the village, where +there is a large sawmill. Very few people visit the baths, and they are +in a miserable state. There are copper, zinc, and argentiferous lead +mines in the neighbourhood. + +Rooms at the Châlet de la Scieric. + +GÈDRE (3214 ft.).--A poor village in lovely scenery (see +engraving, page 122), on the side of a rocky gorge in the +Hautes-Pyrénées, 8 miles from Luz and 4 from Gavarnie, on the direct +road between the two. + +Hotels.--Des Voyageurs, Palasset. + +For information on the so-called Grotte de Gèdre see Chapter VIII. The +two chief excursions from Gèdre are those to the Vallée de Héas +and the Cirque de Troumouse, though they may be considered as one trip +here. From Gèdre to the chapel of Héas 2 to 2 1/2 hours, from the +chapel to the fork of the road 1/2 hour, and from thence to the Cirque +1 hour. This is a very fine excursion, occasionally undertaken from Luz +and St. Sauveur. + +GERDE.--A village in the Campan valley, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, +near Bigorre. Known chiefly for the _palomières_ or pigeon traps +among the trees above it. See Chapter II. + +GRIPP (3448 ft.).--A well-situated village in the +Hautes-Pyrénées, on the Route Thermale, between Bigorre and Barèges, 2 +1/2 miles from Ste. Marie. Tourists often find the Hôtel des Voyageurs +comfortable enough to keep them there for a few days. A little beyond +the village on the old road are the Baths of Bagnet, supplied by +a cold sulphurous spring; they do not, however, call for much mention. +The Falls of Garet are in the immediate vicinity. + +GRUST.--A small village in the Hautes-Pyrénées. Refer to Sazos +in Appendix. + +GUÉTARY.--A Basque village in the Basses-Pyrénées, 3 miles from +Biarritz. The railway station, Bidart-Guétary, on the line between +Bordeaux and Madrid, is not far from the village. + +HÉAS.--A hamlet in the Hautes-Pyrénées, five miles from Gèdre +and eight from Gavarnie, by the Piméné. + +Inn.--De la Munia, kept by Victor Chappelle, hunter; besides +whom, Jacques Canton and François Lavignolle, chamois-hunters, are +excellent guides. Chief excursion to the Cirque de Troumouse. See +Gèdre. + +HENDAYE.--The French frontier town on the Bay of Biscay in the +Basses-Pyrénées, known for the manufacture of a liqueur of the same +name. French Custom-house; station on the line between Bordeaux and +Madrid. Good beach and bathing. Boats can be hired to cross the +Bidassoa to Fuenterabia, at about 2 frs. for 3 persons; for information +concerning which see Chapter XIII. + +Buffet at the station. + +Money changed. + +Hotels/.--De France, Du Commerce, Americani. + +IRUN.--The Spanish frontier town and railway station on the +direct line between Bordeaux and Spain. Spanish Customhouse. + +Buffet at the station, also a money changer. + +Hotels.--Echenique, De Arupe. + +IZESTE.--A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, near Louvie-Juzon and +Arudy, on the road between Eaux Bonnes and Oloron. + +JACA.--A fortified town of Spain on the banks of the Aragon, +521/2 miles from Oloron, on the direct route to Huesca, from +which it is 571/2 miles distant. + +LABASSÈRE.--A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, celebrated for its +waters and slate quarries (refer to Bagnères de Bigorre). It is 11/2 +hrs. distant from Bigorre; but its quarries take 1/2 hr. longer to +reach, and the springs 1 hour after that. The celebrated water is +bottled at the springs, but it is also sent in casks for use in +Bagnères de Bigorre. + +LAMOTHE.--A small village in the Landes, 25 miles from Bordeaux. +Junction for Arcachon, 10 miles distant. + +LARUNS.--An important though tumble-down village in the Val +d'Ossau, in the Basses-Pyrénées, 31/4 miles from Eaux Bonnes and the +same from Eaux Chaudes. The railway from Pau now extends to Laruns, 24 +miles (see Chapter XII.), but the drive is more enjoyable, except on a +dusty day. The picturesque costumes of the Ossau valley may still be +seen occasionally at this village. + +Hotels.--Des Touristes, Des Pyrénées. Living economical. + +LESCAR.--An ancient and decaying town, 41/2 miles from Pau by +rail. Several interesting ruins, &c., for which refer to Chapter I. + +LOURDES.--A town in the Hautes-Pyrénées, and railway station on +the direct line from Pau to Toulouse, and junction with the line to +Pierrefitte. The great Roman Catholic Pilgrimage, having now quite +eclipsed Bétharram, much visited formerly as a shrine. The grotto where +the Virgin is supposed to have appeared is by the riverside. An +admirable panorama represents the scene at one of these imaginary +apparitions of the Virgin--known as Notre Dame de Lourdes, and always +represented in that connection with a blue sash. Five and twenty years +and superstition have transformed Lourdes from a little village into a +fair-sized town, overloaded with hotels, of which the traveller is +advised to be wary, especially during the pilgrim season, when the beds +are apt to have other occupants than the "weary traveller's form." The +Hôtel des Pyrénées may be trusted. + +Hotels.--Des Pyrénées || (Mons. R. Lacrampe); Latapie; De la +Grotte, De la Poste, De Paris, De l'Europe, De la Paix, D'Angleterre, +&c. + +Excellent Carriages on hire in the town and at the hotels. + +Excursions to the Lac de Lourdes, &c. + +LOURES (1445 ft.).--A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, 17 1/2 +miles from Luchon and 3 from St. Bertrand de Comminges (see Chapter +XI.), for which it is the station on the railway between Luchon and +Montrejeau, and carriages await trains. + +Hotels.--Pyrénées, Lassus. + +LOUVIE-JUZON.--A village in the Val d'Ossau, Basses-Pyrénées, 16 +miles from Pau, n. from Eaux Bonnes, and less than a mile from the +ruins of the ancient castle of Géloz. There is a curious old church in +the village, and the inn where the diligence daily halts is known as +the Hôtel des Pyrénées. + +LOUVIE SOUBIBON.--A small village at the foot of a mountain +worked for its slates, 4 miles from the above. + +LUZ (2410 ft.).--A well-situated village in a fertile valley in +the Hautes-Pyrénées, 6 1/4 miles from Pierrefitte, the terminus of the +line to Lourdes, 1 1/4 from St. Sauveur, and 3 3/4 from Barèges. From +the last-named it receives water for its new Bathing Establishment (see +Bareges in Appendix). + +Hotels.--De l'Univers, || Des Pyrénées, De l'Europe, &c. + +Apartments may also be obtained. Living is not on the whole +expensive, but from July to September from 10 to 16 frs. may be +charged--much less at other times (say from 7 to 10). + +Carriages and Horses, Asses and Guides can be +obtained for the various excursions (for which see St. Sauveur in +Appendix). + +Post and Telegraph Office. + +For description of the old Church of the Templars and the Château St. +Marie, &c., refer to Chapter VI. MAULÉON-BAROUSSE.--In the +valley of Barousse, Hautes-Pyrénées, 3 1/4 miles from Saléchan, on the +line between Montrejeau and Luchon; 4 1/2 miles from Ste. Marie (not to +be confounded with the Ste. Marie near Bigorre). + +Inn.--M. Grillon's. + +MOLITG-les-Bains (1480 ft.).--Built on a terrace above the +Castellane Gorge in the Pyrénées Orientales, 5-1/2 miles from Prades +and 31 from Perpignan. + +The Bathing Establishments (of which there are three) are +situated a mile below the village, in the gorge, and they are supplied +by 10 springs of a similar nature, largely charged with sulphate of +soda, and of temperatures varying from 88° to 100° Fahr. The water has +emollient and sedative properties, slightly diuretic, and is especially +useful in diseases of the skin and nerves. + +The Climate is very mild in winter, but hot in summer; and the +season extends from May to October. + +Hotels.--The best accommodation is to be had at the bathing +establishments Barrère, Llupia, and Massia, all of which belong to M. +Massia, who is a doctor by profession. + +Chief Excursions are:-- + +To Olette by the Gourgs de Nohèdes (11 hours there and back). + +To the Baths of Carcanières (about 11 hours there _only_) +_via_ Mosset. + +MONTAUBAN.--A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, 1-1/2 miles from +Luchon (see Chapter X.), known for its church and cascade. + +MONTGAILLARD.--A village on the banks of the Adour, in the +Hautes-Pyrénées, 5 miles from Bigorre: station on the line between +Bigorre and Tarbes. + +MONTREJEAU.--A town standing on an eminence above the river in +the Haute-Garonne, junction for Luchon from the Pau-Toulouse line. + +Hotels.--Leclair (fine situation); Pouget, well-known; &c. + +Buffet at the station. Refer to Chapter XI. for further +information. + +MORCENZ.--A town in the "Landes" district, 68 miles from +Bordeaux, and junction for the Tarbes-Bigorre line. There is a small +bathing establishment in the town, supplied by a cold chalybeate +spring; and a quarry of lithographic stone in the neighbourhood. + +Buffet at station. + +Inns.--Commerce, Ambassadeurs. + +NAY.--An ancient village in the Basses-Pyrénées, on the left +bank of the Gave de Pau. Station, Coarraze-Nay, on the line from +Pau to Lourdes; 10-1/2 miles from the former and 14 from the latter. +Tanneries, &c., and ancient buildings. See Chapter I. + +Inns.--Du Commerce, De France. + +NÉGRESSE.--The station for Biarritz (2 miles from the town), on +the direct line between Bordeaux and Madrid. + +NESTALAS.--A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, near Pierrefitte; +the station being known as Pierrefitte-Nestalas, the terminus of the +line from Lourdes. Hotel accommodation at Pierrefitte (which see in +Appendix). + +OLORON.--A town on a hill above the river of same name, in the +Basses-Pyrénées, 20 miles from Pau, by Gan and Belair. Its suburb +(across the river) Sainte Marie possesses a fine old church of the +Transition style. The railway was to be opened this year (1883) in +communication with Pau and Laruns. Oloron is celebrated for some +exquisite pottery, that can be bought in all the chief Pyrenean resorts +_except_ the town itself. + +Hotels.--De la Poste, Des Voyageurs, De l'Aigle. + +Oo.--A small village with an ancient church, in the +Haute-Garonne, 5-1/2 miles from Luchon, and 4-1/2 from the lake of the +same name. + +Guide.--Jean Brunet. + +ORTHEZ.--An ancient town situated on a hill above the Gave de +Pau, in the Basses-Pyrénées. The Tour de Moncade, in the vicinity, has +great historic interest, besides which there is an ancient bridge and +other remains of olden days (see Chapter I.). Coach to Salies (10 +miles), and Mauléon-Licharre (27 miles). + +Inns.--De la Belle-hôtesse, Des Pyrénées, &c. + +PAILLOLE (or Payole).--A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, 11-1/4 +miles from Bigorre, on the Route Thermale, _via_ the Col de +Peyresourde to Luchon. See Chapters I. and IX. + +Inn.--De la Poste. + +PANTICOSA.--A village in Spain, 24 miles from Cauterets, +celebrated for its waters. The bathing establishments are fed by four +springs of the sulphurous type. They are variously used for dyspepsia, +rheumatism, skin diseases, scrofula, and chronic (non-tubercular) +chest affections. They have a purgative and sedative action. + +Hotels.--Accommodation can be best obtained in the nine +different bathing establishments belonging to the same proprietor; +there are also the D'Espagne and FrancoEspagnol. + +Horses.--At about 5 to 7 francs per diem, at the Maison Borda. + +Doctors.--Attached to the establishments. + +PASAGES.--A village on the shores of a tidal bay in Spain, 30 +miles from Bayonne and 6-1/4 from Irun. It was once the safest port in +the Biscay. Refer to Chapter XIII. + +PAU (770 ft.).--A former capital, and most important town on the +right bank of the Gave of same name, in the Basses-Pyrénées. A +favourite winter resort with English and Americans, possessing hotels, +markets, and shops of the best and most varied descriptions. An +excellent starting-point for a tour in the Pyrenees. For history, &c., +see Chapter I. + +Hotels.--France, || Poste, || Gassion, De la Paix, Splendide +Bellevue, Beau Séjour, || Grand Continental, De Londres, Henri IV., &c. + +Pensions.--Colbert, || Hattersly, Etcherbest, Lecour, &c. + +Apartments.--All over the town. + +Season.--1st of October to end of May. + +Villas. Can be hired furnished, for the season, at prices +varying from £8 per month to £80. + +Baths.--Rue Alexander Taylor, and 13 Rue d'Orleanb, &c. + +Carriage Proprietors.--Ranguedat, || Crohare, || &c. £c. + +Horse Proprietors.--Estrade, || Peiho, || Lanusse. + +T-Carts and Good Ponies.--Schürch, Rue de la Fontaine. + +English Churches.--Trinity Church, Rue des Temples; Christ +Church, Rue Serviez; St Andrew's Church, Rue Calas; Presbyterian +Church, Rue Montpensier. + +Bankers.--Merillon, || will take English cheques, &c.; Mr. +Church, English Vice-Consul; Mr. M. Clay, U. S. ViceConsul; Tricou, &c. + +Post and Telegraph Office, Reading--Rooms, Theatre, Casino, +&c. + +English Club.--Place Royale. + +For the principal Excursions and sports and pastimes, refer to +Chapter I.; for trips to Eaux Bonnes and Eaux Chaudes, refer to Chapter +XIII. + +PAYOLE.--See Paillole in Appendix. + +PERPIGNAN.--A large town on the river Tet, in the Pyrénées +Orientales, junction for Prades (station for Vernet), from the Toulouse +line and starting-point of the coach for Amélie; 132 miles from +Toulouse, 25 1/2 from Prades, 29 1/2 from Molitg, 32 1/2 from Vernet, +and 23 1/2 from Amélie. It is fortified; celebrated for its garnet +jewellery; and situated in a valley covered with groves of olive and +pomegranate, and fruitful vineyards. Cathedral; château (splendid view +from donjon tower) in the Citadol, entrance i fr.; theatre, Picture +Gallery, &c. + +Hotels.--Grand, De France, De l'Europe, Du Petit Paris, &c. + +Post and Telegraph Office. + +The Chief Excursions are:-- + +La Salanque, the whole day, by carriage _via_ St. Laurent +de la Salanque; Torreilles; Ste. Marie and Villelongue de la Salanque. + +Castell Rossello et Canet.--6 1/4 miles; carriage-road part of +the way. + +PEYREHORADE.--Village in the Landes, and station on the line +between Puyoo (13 miles) and Bayonne (19 miles). + +Inns.--Lafond Des Voyageurs. + +PIERREFITTE.[Footnote: The station is called +Pierrefitte-Nestalas.]--A village situated at the foot of the Pic de +Soulom and the Gorge de Cauterets in the Hautes Pyrénées. Terminus of +the railway line from Lourdes, and starting-point for the diligences to +Cauterets, Luz, St. Sauveur, and Barèges. + +Hotels.--De la Poste, || Des Pyrénées, De France. Living more +moderate than at any of the above-mentioned towns or Argelès. For +further information see Chapter IV. + +PRESTE-LES-BAINS.--A bathing-resort in the Eastern Pyrenees, 19 +miles from Amélie (to which refer in Appendix), and 42-1/2 from +Perpignan, the nearest railway station. + +The Bathing Establishment is supplied by one sulphurous spring +only, partaking of much the same properties as the more celebrated ones +at the larger resorts, being specially beneficial, when drunk, for +lithiasis and catarrh of the bladder. + +Hotel accommodation in the Bathing Establishment. + +Season.--June to October. + +PUYOO.--A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, one mile distant from +the station of same name; junction for Bayonne from the line between +Bordeaux and Pau; from which it is 11-1/2 miles and 32-1/2 miles +distant, respectively. + +Hotels.--Lafont, Voyageurs. + +RÉBENAC.--A village in the Val de Néez, Basses-Pyrénées, 10 +miles from Pau, and 17-1/2 from Eaux Bonnes on the direct route, +between the two. + +Inn.--Du Perigord. + +SAINT AVENTIN (2805 ft.).--A village in the Haute-Garonne, +2-3/4 miles from Luchon, on the Route Thermale. Known for the chapel of +same name, to which a legend is attached. + +SAINT BÉAT.--A village in the Haute-Garonne, 3-1/4 miles from +Marignac, a station on the line between Luchon and Montrejeau, from +which it is 9-1/2 and 13 miles distant respectively. A favourite drive +from Luchon (see Chapter XI. and Luchon in Appendix), road to Viella +_via_ Bosost. + +Inn.--Commerce. + +SAINT BERTRAND DE COMMINGES.--An ancient Roman town in the +Haute-Garonne, 3 miles from Loures station on the Luchon-Montrejeau +line, For information respecting the old cathedral, &c., refer to +Chapter XI. + +Inn.--De Comminges. + +The Grotto de Gargas is in the vicinity. Guides must be hired at St. +Bertrand. + +SAINT CHRISTAU.--A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, 5 miles from +Oloron, from which it is a lovely drive. + +Two Bathing Establishments, fed by four sources, one of which is +calcareous, and the rest of a sulphurous nature. They are useful for +curing wounds, rheumatism, skin diseases, eczema, laryngitis, and +affections of the eyes. + +Hotels.--Poste, Grand Turc, Mogul; also Chalets, and +rooms from 2 to 5 francs per diem. + +There are many pleasant walks in the neighbourhood, and excellent +fishing. + +SAINTE MARIE (près Bigorre).--A village in the Campan valley, +Hautes-Pyrénées, at the fork of the Route Thermale from Bigorre (see +Chapter II.). It is distant 7-1/2 miles from Bigorre, 17-1/2 from +Barèges by the Col de Tourmalet route, and 36 from Luchon by the Col +d'Aspin. + +SAINTE MARIE (près Oloron).--A suburb of Oloron, on the opposite +bank of the river Aspe. See Oloron in Appendix. + +SAINTE MARIE (près St. Laurent).--A small village on a hill in +the Eastern Pyrenees, 2-1/2 miles from St. Laurent de la Salanque, and +7-1/2 from Perpignan. + +SAINTE MARIE (près Saléchan).--A small bathing resort, situated +in a lovely valley in the Hautes-Pyrénées about 1 mile from Saléchan +station on the Luchon-Montrejeau line. + +The Bathing Establishment is supplied by four cold springs, +containing sulphate of lime principally, but also small quantities of +magnesia and soda. The water is heated for bathing purposes, but drunk +in its natural state. It is tonic in its action, but diuretic and +purgative as well, and is used efficaciously in liver complaints, +dyspepsia, neuralgia, and nervous irritability. Hotel accommodation +in the Bathing Establishment and Apartments in the houses near it. + +SAINT JEAN DE LUZ.--A watering-place on the Bay of Biscay, in +the Basses-Pyrénées, 8 miles from Biarritz, which it is very anxious to +outrival. It is well protected from the winds, but is less free from +dampness in its climate on the same account. It possesses an old church +and several historical buildings, and is one of the favourite drives +from Biarritz. Refer to Chapter XIII. + +Hotels.--De la Poste, De France, D'Angleterre et de la Plage, De +l'Océan, De Madrid. + +Apartments and Houses furnished in the town. + +Sea-Bathing Establishment, Casino, &c. + +SAINT LAURENT DE LA SALANQUE.--A town in the Eastern Pyrenees, +with a good agricultural and commercial industry, 8-3/4 miles from +Perpignan. + +Hotels.--Got, Garriques. + +SAINT MAMET.--A village in the Haute-Garonne, 3/4 mile from +Luchon (see Chapter X.). The church is interesting. + +SAINT PÉ.--A village built on an eminence in the Hautes-Pyrénées, +and station on the railway between Pau and Lourdes, 18 miles from +the one and 6-1/4 from the other. + +SAINT PÉE-sur-Nivelles.--A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, on +the route between St. Jean de Luz and Cambo--8-3/4 miles from the +former, and 10 miles from the latter. + +SAINT SAUVEUR (2525 ft.).--A bathing and mountain resort in the +Hautes-Pyrénées, 7 miles from Pierrefitte--the nearest station--1-1/4 +from Luz, and 5 from Barèges. A most charming place for a spring or +summer residence, being beautifully situated and possessing numerous +pleasant walks in the vicinity. See Chapter VII. + +Two Bathing Establishments, each supplied by one spring, in +which sulphuret of sodium predominates. The water is largely diuretic +in its action, having at the same time a tonic and anti-spasmodic +effect. Its sedative properties are beneficial to the nervous system +generally, and it proves useful in removing the after-effects of long +illnesses, hæmorrhages, &c., besides being pleasant to the skin. + +Hotels.--De France, || Des Bains, || Du Parc, Des Princes, De +Paris. + +Guides (living at Luz).--Martin, Noguez, Fortanet, and Bernard +senior. For lofty summits, such as the Pic d'Ardiden, and for other +excursions, Lons, Pratdessus, and Cramp Brothers. + +Horses may generally be obtained from them, and Carriages +(at Luz) as well. + +Post and Telegraph during the season only, but letters +and telegrams are forwarded from Luz at other times, there being one +delivery and one collection of the former daily. + +Chief Excursions:-- + +To Bareges.--10 to 15 frs. landau; 2 frs. pourboire. See Chapter +VI. + +To Sazos and Grust.--See Chapter VII. + +To Gavarnie.--Landau and four horses, 15 to 25 frs.; pourboire, +3 frs. Horses and guide to the Cirque, each 2 frs. from Gavarnie. See +Chapter VIII. + +The Pic de Bergons.--4 frs. each horse, guide 5 frs. out of +season, 6 frs. each in season. Refer to Chapter VII. + +The Pic de Viscos.--7 hours up and down. Guide 10 frs., horse 8 +frs. Via Grust; a pleasant excursion. + +Pic de Néré.--8 hours there and back. Horse 10 frs., guide 12 +frs. Horse-track three-quarters of the way; an easy and pleasant climb. + +Pic d'Ardiden.--8-1/2 hours up and down. Guide necessary. A fine +but difficult climb. + +SAINT SAVIN.--A very ancient village in the Argelès valley, in +the Hautes-Pyrénées; fully described in Chapter IV. + +SAINT SÉBASTIEN.--A town in the north of Spain, on the shores of +the Biscay, 163-1/2 miles from Bordeaux, 35 from Biarritz, and 19 from +Hendaye (the French frontier town). Possessing a fine citadel, +bull-ring, beach, and bathing establishment, and two fine churches. See +Chapter XIII. + +Hotels.--De Londres, || De Escurra, Anglais, De Arrese, De +Berdejo, &c. + +SALÉCHAN.--A village in the Garonne valley, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, +and station on the Montrejeau-Luchon line for Ste. Marie (baths) +and Siradan (baths). + +SALIES.--A town on the river of same name, in the Basses-Pyrénées, +10 miles from Orthez, the nearest station. + +It is celebrated for its salt springs; and Bayonne hams are said to owe +their fine (?) flavour to the use of the salt produced from them. + +Hotels.--Du Cheval Blanc, De France, De Paris. + +SAZOS.--A small village near St. Sauveur, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, +below the hamlet of Grust. For description of church, &c., refer +to Chapter VII. + +SIRADAN.--A small bathing resort in the valley of same name, in +the Hautes-Pyrénées, with a bathing establishment and hotel in one +building, 2 miles from Saléchan station on the Luchon-Montrejeau line. +The springs contain sulphuret of lime and bicarbonate of iron. They +have a similar effect to those of Ste. Marie (1 mile distant), but tend +to excite more strongly. The water stands bottling well. + +SOULOM.--A small village at the foot of the peak of same name, +in the Hautes-Pyrénées, near Pierrefitte, possessing a curious old +church. See Chapter IV. + +TARBES.--A large town on the Adour, in the Hautes-Pyrénées. +Station on the railway between Pau and Toulouse, and junction for the +Bigorre and Morcenz lines. Cavalry barracks, cathedral, &c. Buffet at +the station. See Chapter III. + +Hotels.--De la Paix, France, Commerce. + +URRUGNE.--A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, 2-1/2 miles from St. +Jean de Luz. + +USTARITZ.--The name of two villages, formerly separate, in the +Basses-Pyrénées, 8-3/4 miles from Bayonne, on the carriage-road thence +_via_ Elizondo to Pampeluna (63 miles). + +VALCABRÈRE.--A small village in the Haute-Garonne, 2 miles from +Loures station on the Luchon-Montrejeau line, celebrated for the Church +of St. Just, a venerable pile in the vicinity. + +VENASQUE.--A small and prosperous town in Spain, 9 hours from +Luchon (21 miles) by the _Port_ of the same name. There are some +baths similar in their uses to those of Luchon, fed by sulphurous +springs at some distance from the town, and 2-1/2 hours nearer Luchon. + +Excellent accommodation can be obtained at the Casa san Mimi +(Antonio Saora) for travellers. + +VERNET-LES-BAINS (2050 ft.), a bathing resort situated in a +hollow in the Eastern Pyrenees, 7 miles from the nearest railway +station. + +There are several springs which supply the large Bathing +Establishment and the smaller Thermes Mercader. The water is +largely charged with sulphate of lime, and possesses properties similar +to other waters of that type. It is especially useful in affections of +the air-passages and skin complaints, and is more or less exciting +according to the springs. The climate is mild, and therefore Vernet has +some reputation as a winter resort, being very little colder than +Amélie (to which refer in Appendix). + +Hotels.--Des Commandants (in the bathing establishment), Du +Parc, Ibrahim Pacha et des Bains, Du Canigou, &c. + +Villas furnished to be let. + +Carriages and Horses. + +Post and Telegraph Office, Theatre, Clubs, &c. + +Guide.--Michael Nou. + +Chief Excursions:-- + +The Canigou (9144 ft.)--11 hours up and down. Guide +recommended, also provisions. Horses 10 frs., guide 10 frs. Horses can +go within a mile of the top, from which the view is splendid. The +ascent is long but not difficult. + +The Fountain des Esquereyres.--_Via_ Castell, 1/2 hour; a +pleasant walk. + +Tour de Goa.--4 hours up and down. An interesting battlemented +tower, with a fine view. + +Vallée de Sahorre.--3 hours there and back; an enjoyable trip. + +Cascade de Cadi.--6 hours there and back; guide recommended. + +The Abbey of Canigou.--2-1/2 hours there and back; guide +unnecessary. An interesting ruin. + +Vieuzac.--A suburb of Argelès, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, +possessing a donjon tower. The station on the line from Lourdes is +called Argelès-Vieuzac. + +Villelongue.--A small village in the Argelès valley, in the +Hautes-Pyrénées, near Pierrefitte. See Chapter IV. + + + + +APPENDIX B + +RAILWAY INFORMATION AND SKELETON ROUTES TO THE CHIEF RESORTS IN THE +PYRENEES. + + +For the ordinary traveller a "Continental Bradshaw" is as useful a +railway guide as any, especially if his knowledge of French is limited, +but the time tables published by Chaix and Cie. are also most excellent +in every way. Of these the best and most expensive is the "Livret-Chaix +Continental," price 2 frs, containing all continental railways and a +complete index. A cheaper time table is the "Indicateur des Chemins de +Fer," published by the same firm, price 1/2 fr., which gives the French +railways only, with map and index. Besides these, all the principal +lines have time tables of their own, price 30 cents. + +It is advisable, when people are travelling as a party, that they +should have their luggage all weighed together, presenting the whole of +the tickets at the same time; this not only frequently saves expense, +but, as the number of persons is marked by the luggage clerk on their +baggage receipt, it is a guarantee that each has bought a ticket, which +saves trouble if one should happen to be lost. + +When people are stopping the night _en route_ at a place, and do +not wish to take their registered luggage to the hotel, only to have to +bring it back for re-registration next day, they have simply to leave +it in the station, and when starting again on the morrow to tell the +porter--when they give him the baggage ticket--that it was left +overnight (for which the charge is 1d. per package), whereupon he will +register it without further trouble. + +If a ticket is taken for the wrong station (by mistake) and the luggage +is accordingly registered wrongly too, the passenger must represent the +same to the station-master and ask him to allow a change to be made; if +there is not time to do this the luggage clerk may take the +responsibility--if the urgency of the case is made _argentiferously_ +clear--but the plan is not recommended. _It is important +to know_ that if a traveller misses his train he _must present_ +his _ticket_ at the ticket office to be _restamped_ in order +to make it again available--otherwise it is liable to be forfeited. + +Travellers will also save themselves much trouble by settling which +hotel they intend to go to, before arriving at their destination; and +it must be fully understood that for the carrying of small parcels +taken into the carriage, the aid of porters can _never_ be counted +on. See Chapter XI. + +Luggage not exceeding 30 kilogrammes (_i.e._ 66 lbs. Eng.) is +carried free; 1d. being charged for the registration thereof. + + * * * * * + +_Routes from London to Paris._ + +_Route_ 1.--_Via_ Dover, Calais, Montreuil, Abbeville, Amiens, +Claremont, and Creil: the quickest route. + +_Route_ 2.--_Via_ Folkestone, Boulogne, Montreuil, &c. as above. + +_Route_ 3.--_Via_ Newhaven, Dieppe, Rouen, Gaillon, Mantes, and +Poissy: the least expensive route. + +_From Liverpool to Bordeaux._ + +_Route_ 4.--Per Pacific Steam Navigation Co.'s steamers, fortnightly, +sailing on Wednesdays; average passage 2-1/2 days. + +_From London to Bordeaux._ + +_Route_. 5.--Per General Steam Navigation Co.'s steamers, average +passage 3 to 4 days. + +_Route_ 6.--_Via_ Weymouth, Cherbourg, Caen, Alençon, Le Mans, +Tours and Angoulême. _From Paris to Bordeaux._ + +_Route_ 7.--_Via_ Orleans, Blois, St. Pierre les Corps (for +Tours), Poitiers, Angoulême, and Libourne. + +_From Paris to Bagnères de Bigorre._ + +_Route_ 8.--_Via_ Orléans, Nexon, Perigueux, Les Eyzies, Libos, Agen, +Lectoure, Auch, Mirande, and Tarbes: the most direct route from +Paris to the Pyrénées. + +_From Paris to Toulouse._ + +_Route_ 9.--_Via_ Issoudun, Argenton, Limoges, Nexon, Brives, +Rocamadour, Assier, Figeac, Villefranche, and Tessonières: the quickest +and best route for the Pyrénées Orientales, and resorts of Vernet, +Amélie, &c. + +_From Bordeaux to Arcachon_. + +_Route_ 10.--_Viâ_ Gazinet, Facturé, Lamothe, and La Teste. + +_From Bordeaux to Bagnères de Bigorre_. + +_Route_ 11.--_Viâ_ Morcenx, Arjuzaux, Arengosse, Mont de Marsan, +Aire, Vic-Bigorre, Tarbes, Salles, Adour, and Montgaillard: a +longer route from Paris, by a few miles only, than Route 8. + + +_From Bordeaux to Biarritz_. + +_Route_ 12.--_Viâ_ Ychoux, Morcenx, Dax, Saint Geours, and +Bayonne. + +_From Bordeaux to Pau_. + +_Route 13_.--_Viâ_ Ychoux, Morcenx, Dax, Puyoo, Orthez, Lacq, +and Lescar. + +_From Pau to Eaux Bonnes and Eux Chaudes_. _Route_ 14.--By +carriage _viâ_ Gan, Louvie-Juzon, and Laruns. + +_Route_ 15.--By rail _viâ_ Gan and Laruns, [Footnote: This +railway was to be opened this year (1883).] and carriage from Laruns. + +_From Pau to Lourdes_. + +_Route_ 16.--_Viâ_ Coarraze-Nay, Montaut-Bétharram, and St. +Pé. + +_From Pau to Oloron_. + +_Route_ 17.--_Viâ_ Gan and Belair. + +_From Lourdes to Argelès_. + +_Route_ 18.--_Viâ_ Soum, Lugagnan, and Boo-Silhen. + +_From Lourdes to Pierrefitte_. + +_Route_ 19.--_Viâ_ Soum, Lugagnan, Boo-Silhen and Argelès. + +_From Lourdes to Cauterets, Luz, St. Sauveur, Barèges, and +Gavarnie_. + +_Route_ 20.--By Route 19 to Pierrefitte, thence by diligence or +private carriage to Cauterets. + +_Route_ 21.--By Route 19 to Pierrefitte, thence by diligence or +private carriage to Luz. + +_Route_ 22.--By Route 19 to Pierrefitte, thence by similar +conveyances to St. Sauveur. + +_Route_ 23.--By Route 21 to Luz and continuation to Barèges. + +_Route_ 24.--By Route 22 to St. Sauveur and continuation to +Gavarnie. + +_From Bagnères de Bigorre to Barèges_. + +_Route_ 25.--By carriage _viâ_ Ste. Marie, Gripp, Tramesaïgues, +and the Col de Tourmalet. This route is only open in midsummer. + +_From Bagnères de Bigorre to Bagnères de Luchon_. + +_Route_ 26.--By carriage _viâ_ Campan, Ste. Marie, Payole, +Col d'Aspin, Arreau, Bordères, Col de Peyresourde, and Garin. +Considered the finest drive in the Pyrenees. + +_Route_ 27.--By rail _viâ_ Montgaillard, Tarbes, Montrejeau, +Saléchan, Marignac, and Luchon. An exceedingly long round. + +_From Bagneres de Luchon to St. Bertrand de Comminges_. + +_Route_ 27.--By carriage _viâ_ Cier, Marignac, Saléchan, +Loures, and Labroquère. + +_Route_ 28.--By train _viâ_ Marignac and Saléchan to Loures, +and carriage thence to St. Bertrand. The rail continues from Loures to +Montrejeau. + +_From St. Bertrand to Montrejeau_. + +_Route_ 29.--By carriage to Loures station, thence by train to +Montrejeau. + +_Route_ 30.--By carriage direct to Montrejeau. + +_From Toulouse to Perpignan_. + +_Route_ 31.--Via Castelnaudary, Carcassone, Narbonne, La Nouvelle, +Salses, and Rivesaltes. + +_From Perpignan to Amélie-les-Bains_. + +_Route_ 32.--By diligence or carriage _viâ_ Pollestres, Le +Boulou, and Le Pont de Ceret. + +_From Perpignan to Molitg_. + +_Route_ 33.--By rail _viâ_ Millas, Ille, Bouleternère, and +Vinca, to Prades, thence by diligence or carriage _viâ_ Catlar to +Molitg. + +_From Perpignan to Vernet_. + +_Route_ 34--Route 33 to Prades and coach to Vernet. + +_Route_ 35--By rail _viâ_ Prades to Villefranche, and carriage +thence to Vernet. + + + + +APPENDIX C. + +SOME LOCAL PYRENEAN TERMS AND THEIR ENGLISH EQUIVALENTS. + + +_Artigue_, pasturage, prairie. +_Barranque_, a deep hollow or ravine. +_Borde, Bourdette_, farm-house, barn, cot. +_Caire, Quaire, Quaïrat_, a cone-shaped peak, rocky and bare. +_Canaou_, narrow ravine worn by the snow. +_Cap_, mountain tip. +_Clot_, a valley without exit. +_Colline_, a small valley, a dale. +_Cortal, Courtaou_, sheep-fold, sheep-pen. +_Couila, Couillade_, shepherd's cabin, hut, fertile vale. +_Estibe_, pasturage, feeding-ground. +_Estibère_, a well-pastured mountain. +_Fitte_, pointed summit. +_Montagne_, feeding-ground (on a mountainside). +_Neste_, mountain torrent. +_Orrhy, Orri_, shepherd's hut. +_Oule_, a bowl-shaped valley. +_Pech, Pouey, Puy_, a mountain of no great height, in the Western + Pyrenees; but also applied to loftier summits, in the Eastern range. +_Pène, Peña, Penne_, pointed rock. +_Peyre_, a large crag. +_Piche, Pisse_, a cascade waterfall. +_Pinède, Pinade_, pine forest, site of pine forest. +_Pique_, synonymous with _Fitte_, pointed summit, peak. +_Pla, Plan_, a valley with level meadows. +_Prade, Pradère_, similar to _Estibe_, +feeding-ground, meadow. +_Raillère_, steep decline, avalanche channel. +_Roque_, a mountain, steep and covered with crags. +_Sarrat, Serre, Serrère_, a sharp-toothed crest, backbone of + mountain. +_Sarre_, a small hill. +_Séoube, Scube_, wood, forest. +_Tausse, Truc, Truque, Tuc_, a steep and lofty peak with large + buttresses. + +The _Defiles_ and _Passes_ of the mountains for which the word +_Col_ is generally applied, bear many other names, of which the +following, with their special significations, are the chief:-- + +_Core_, a pass on a side range or small lateral chain. +_Fourgue, Fourquette, Hourque, Hourquette_, generally applied to + passes on the small side ranges. +_Pas_, a pass difficult of approach. +_Port_, a pass in the principal chain. +_Porteil, Portillon, Pourtet_, passes in the principal or side chains. + + + + +APPENDIX D. + +GENERAL INFORMATION, AND TABLES OF METRES, GRAMMES, DEGREES, &c. &c. + + +It would be difficult to speak with _too_ much weight on the +subject of _bread_, especially where invalids are concerned, and +that article in the Pyrenees is essentially _bad_--we might almost +say _unfit for food_. With the exception of Bagnères de +Bigorre--and then only when specially ordered--and _in the +season_, Bagnères de Luchon, the bread throughout the mountain +resorts is abominably sour. Travellers _do_ eat it, because they +have no other, but to invalids it is positively nauseous. In our +opinion it is the only real drawback to enjoying a Pyrenean trip! But +it would be foolish to bring it into such prominence when we have all +along recommended a stay amid these lovely scenes, unless we could +suggest a remedy, and the remedy is as simple as, with us, it proved +complete. There are several bakers in Pau selling bread as good as one +could wish for, and doubtless any of these would be glad to meet the +wishes of travellers; in our case we addressed ourselves to Mr. Otto +Kern, Vienna Bakery, Rue de la Préfecture, Pau, requesting him to +supply us with a certain quantity of bread daily, at whatever place we +might be. We had previously decided on our route on broad lines, so +that a postcard as a rule was sufficient to give notice of a change in +our address; while if a sudden alteration occurred in our plans, a +half-franc telegram told him the news, and _our bread_ never +failed to be at the _right_ place on the _right day_. The +bread sufficient for four people, carriage thereof, and a trifle for +commission (i.e. paper and trouble) cost on an average 2 frs. 50 cents +per diem, which was a little over 80 centimes each. Perhaps in time +hotel-keepers will resort to this method; in fact, we were assured that +it would be so; but in the meantime every traveller is recommended to +do so on his own account; though in all other respects he will find +most of the hotels throughout the mountains very well found. When once +in the Pyrenees, after Pau had been left behind, we found an average +price of 10 frs. per day--perhaps a shade less--was what our hotel +expenses amounted to; including--coffee and milk, bread and butter, +eggs _or_ kidneys _or_ chops for the first breakfast; table +d'hôte luncheon and table d'hôte dinner, with a good bedroom not higher +than 2nd floor. These prices must be understood as only those of a +spring or autumn tour--_out of the season_--and rather easier than +a traveller would pay at many of the hotels if he arrived without +having previously written and made terms. _We_ invariably wrote, +and at all the hotels marked thus || received every attention, good +rooms, good food, and _dry beds_. + +It is difficult to give a hard-and-fast amount per diem as to +expenditure, as it depends so much on the drives, excursions, &c.; as +above stated 10 frs. per day paid all hotel expenses (including _vin +ordinaire_), and we consider that in the spring, with several +excursions, and "a landau and four" for the principal drives--such as +Bigorre to Luchon, Lourdes to St. Sauveur, St. Sauveur to Gavarnie, &c. +&c.--25 frs. or £1 per day ought to cover the whole daily expense of +each person. In the summer of course 35 frs., or even 40 frs., would be +required for the same period. Horses and carriages are cheap in the +spring, but even then a little judicious bargaining is required, as it +is in nearly every transaction, in the Pyrenees. + +Jam, marmalade, bloater-paste, and small luxuries of that kind, not +excluding _whiskey_, are difficult to obtain, and it is well to +take them all from Pau or Biarritz, wherever the start is made. +Bagnères de Bigorre, chez M. Peltier, is fairly well supplied, but +other resorts know not the sound of their names! It is also worth +knowing that a system of "Parcels Post" is in operation, whereby any +moderate-sized parcel can be dispatched from any station for 85 cents, +and delivered at any place within reach of the railway or diligence; +but it must be understood at the same time that _bread_ will in +like manner be delivered _only_ where the railway or diligence +runs; if travellers therefore go to places where there is no +_official_ communication, they must depute some agent to receive +letters or parcels where the diligence last stops, and then forward +them by special messenger. This can be done of course, but it will +prove costly. + +The rate of postage is 2-1/2d. the 15 grammes (a shade over 1/2 oz.), +and 2-1/2d. for every additional 15 grammes. + +Money orders are issued at all the principal towns to which (see +Appendix A) a post-office belongs. + +Telegrams, 1/2 d = 5 cents, per word, the address being charged for the +same as the rest; but no telegram can cost less than 50 centimes. + +The rate to England is variable; usually 2-1/2 d. per word. + +Money is reckoned at 25 frs. to the £1 English, and banknotes or gold +will be accepted in nearly all hotels, and circular notes as well, at +the larger resorts. + + +TABLE OF LITRES AND PINTS. + +1/2 litre = 7/8 pint. +1 " = 1-3/4 pints. +2 litres = 3-1/2 pints. +4 " = 7 pints. +8 " = 7 quarts. + + +TABLES OF GRAMMES AND OUNCES. + + 29 grammes = 1 oz. + 57 " = 2 oz. + 86 " = 3 oz. + 114 " = 4 oz. = 1/4 lb. + 227 " = 8 oz. = 1/2 lb. + 454 " = 16 oz. = 1 lb. + 908 " = 32 oz. = 2 lbs. +1000 " = 35-1/5 oz. = 2 lbs. 3-1/5 oz. +1 kilogramme = 1000 grammes = 2 lbs. 3-1/5 oz. + + +TABLE OF CENTIMETRES AND INCHES. + +100 centimetres = 1 metre = 39-1/3 inches; 1 centimetre = 2/5 inch +as near as possible. + + 5 centimetres = 2 inches. + 10 " = 4 " + 15 " = 6 " + 20 " = 8 " + 25 " = 10 " + 30 " = 12 " = 1 foot. + 45 " = 18 " = 1-1/2 feet. + 50 " = 20 " = 1 ft. 8 in. + 60 " = 24 " = 2 feet. + 90 " = 36 " = 3 feet. +100 " = 39-1/3 " = 3 ft. 3-1/3 in. + + +TABLE OF METRES AND FEET, FOR DETERMINING THE +HEIGHT OF MOUNTAINS, &c. + +1 metre = 3 ft. 3-1/3 in. as near as possible, without using decimals; +but at this computation 2 inches are lost in every 25 metres, which +however have been duly supplied in the following table, but the +fractions omitted:-- + +Metres. Ft. in. Metres. Ft. in. Metres. Ft. in.. + 1 = 3 3 26 = 85 4 140 = 459 4 + 2 = 6 7 27 = 88 7 150 = 492 2 + 3 = 9 10 28 = 91 10 160 = 524 11 + 4 = 13 1 29 = 95 2 170 = 557 9 + 5 = 16 5 30 = 98 8 175 = 574 3 + 6 = 19 8 35 = 114 10 180 = 590 7 + 7 = 22 11 40 = 131 2 190 = 623 4 + 8 = 26 3 45 = 147 7 200 = 656 3 + 9 = 29 6 50 = 164 1 300 = 984 4 + 10 = 32 9 55 = 180 5 400 = 1,312 6 + 11 = 36 1 60 = 196 10 500 = 1,640 7 + 12 = 39 4 65 = 213 3 600 = 1,968 8 + 13 = 42 7 70 = 229 7 700 = 2,296 9 + 14 = 45 11 75 = 246 1 800 = 2,624 10 + 15 = 49 2 80 = 262 6 900 = 2,953 0 + 16 = 52 5 85 = 278 10 1,000 = 3,281 1 + 17 = 55 9 90 = 295 3 2,000 = 6,562 2 + 18 = 59 0 95 = 311 8 3,000 = 9,843 3 + 19 = 62 3 1OO = 328 2 3,100 = 10,171 5 + 20 = 65 7 105 = 344 6 3,200 = 10,499 6 + 21 = 68 10 110 = 360 11 3,300 = 10,827 7 + 22 = 72 1 115 = 377 4 3,400 = 11,155 8 + 23 = 75 5 120 = 393 8 3,500 = 11,483 9 + 24 = 78 8 125 = 410 2 4,000 = 13,124 4 + 25 = 82 0 130 = 426 6 + + +TABLE OF KILOMETRES AND MILES. + +1 kilometre = 1,000 metres = 1,093 yards = 5/8 mile, as nearly as +possible, without employing decimals; but at this computation the +kilometre gains 11 yards, 40 kilometres gain 1/4 mile, and 160 +kilometres gain 1 mile. This gain has been deducted in the following +table, and all fractions less than 1/4 omitted:-- + +Kilos. Miles. Kilos. Miles. + + 1 = 5/8 19 = 11-3/4 + 2 = 1-1/4 20 = 12-1/4 + 3 = 2 30 = 18-1/2 + 4 = 2-1/2 40 = 24-3/4 + 5 = 3 50 = 31 + 6 = 3-3/4 60 = 37 + 7 = 4-1/4 70 = 43-1/4 + 8 = 5 80 = 55-3/4 + 9 = 5-1/2 100 = 62 + 10 = 6-1/4 120 = 74-1/4 + 11 = 7 160 = 99 + 12 = 7-1/2 200 = 123-3/4 + 13 = 8 300 = 185-1/2 + 14 = 8-3/4 320 = 198 + 15 = 9-1/4 400 = 247-1/2 + 16 = 10 500 = 309-1/4 + 17 = 10-1/2 1,000 = 618-3/4 + 18 = 11-1/4 + + +COMPARISON TABLE OF THE CENTIGRADE AND FAHRENHEIT THERMOMETERS. + +1° Centigrade = 1-4/5 Fahr.; 5° Cent. = 9° Fahr. It must be understood +that, as the freezing-point of Centigrade is Zero and of Fahrenheit +32°, these 32° must be taken into account in all calculations above +freezing-point: thus +5° Cent. are equivalent to a temperature of 41° +Fahr. + + Cent. Fahr. Cent. Fahr. + +Below -15 = +3 17 = 63 +Zero. -10 = +12 18 = 64 + -5 = +21 19 = 65 + 0 = 32 Freezing-point. 20 = 67 + 1 = 34 25 = 76 + 2 = 36 30 = 85 + 3 = 37 35 = 94 + 4 = 39 35-1/2 = 95 Blood heat. + 5 = 41 40 = 103 + 6 = 43 45 = 112 + 7 = 45 50 = 121 + 8 = 47 55 = 130 + 9 = 48 60 = 139 + 10 = 50 65 = 148 + 11 = 52 70 = 156 + 12 = 54 75 = 165 + 13 = 55 80 = 174 + 13-1/2 = 56 Temperate. 85 = 183 + 14 = 57 90 = 192 + 15 = 59 95 = 201 + 16 = 61 100 = 210 Boiling-point. + + + + + +INDEX. + + +A. + +Abbé's song, the, +A dirty avalanche, +A "double stroke" (St. Sauveur), +Adour, basin of, +Allée d'Etigny (Luchon), + de Barcugna, + des Bains, + Verte (Barèges), +Allées de Cambasque, +Amélie-les-Bains, + excursions from, + general information, + hotels at, &c., +Amoy, Valley of Ten Thousand Rocks, +Ancient church of the Templars (Luz), +_Anemone vernalis_, + scarlet, + wood, +A new "diet of worms," +An excited dog-fancier, +An extraordinary detachment, +Anglêt, +Appendix A, + B, + C, + D, +Aran, valley of, +Arboust, valley of, +Arcachon, +Arcachon, excursions from, + general information, + hotels at, +Argelès, + drive round valley of, + excursions from, + hotels at, + valley of, +Argelès-sur-Mer, +Arles-sur-Tech, +Arlos, +Arreau, + hotels at and excursions from, +Arrens, + excursions from, + hotels at, +Arrieuzé (river), +Arroudet, cascade of, +Artigues-Tellin, +Arudy, +Ascent of the Col de Riou, +Ascent of the Pic de Bergons, +Aspe, valley of, +Aspin, + col of, +Asphodel, +Assat, +Asté, +Atalaya, cape, +Auberge du Lys (Luchon), +Auch, road of, +Aure, valley of, +Avajan, +Avalanche, a dirty, +Avenue de Salut, +Ax, road of, + +B. + +Bagnères de Bigorre to Bagnères de Luchon +Bagnères de Luchon to Barèges +Bagnères de Bigorre +Bagnères de Bigorre, bathing establishment of +Bagnères de Bigorre, excursions from +Bagnères de Bigorre, hotels of +Bagnères de Bigorre, springs of +Bagnères de Luchon to Montrejeau +Bagnères de Luchon to St. Bertrand de Comminges +Bagnères de Luchon +Bagnères de Luchon, baths of +Bagnères de Luchon, casino of +Bagnères de Luchon, excursions from +Bagnères de Luchon, general information +Bagnères de Luchon, hotels at +Ballooning +Barbe de Bouch +Barèges + " bathing establishment of + " excursions from + " hotels of +Barousse, valley of +Basin of Adour + " Echez +Baths of Amélie + " Barèges + " Capvern + " César + " Grand Pré + " Hontalade + " Le Pré + " Luchon + " Luz + " Marie Thérèse + " Mauhourat + " Molitg + " OEufs + " Panticosa + " Pauze Nouveaux + " " Vieux + " Petit St. Sauveur + " Preste + " Raillère + " Ste. Marie (near Luchon) + " St. Sauveur + " Salut + " Santé + " Siradan + " Vernet +Baudéan +Bayonne + " general information + " hotels at +Beaucens, castle of +Bédat +Bee orchids +Béhobie +Bélesten +Bernadette Soubirons +Bétharram + " bridge near +Betpouey (Barèges) +Biarritz + " amusements of + " Cape Atalaya at + " general information + " hotels at + " Port Vieux at +Bidart +Bidassoa +Bielle +Bilhères +Billères (Pau) +Billères plains of, + " woods of, +Bious-Artigues, +Bishop's arrival, the, +Bizanos, +Black Forest (Bosost), +Black Prince, +Boo-Silhen, +Bordeaux to Arcachon, +Bordeaux to Bagnères de Bigorre, +Bordeaux to Biarritz, + " to Pau, +Bordeaux, + " hotels at, + " steamers to, + " trains to, +Bordères, +Bosost, + " chapel of St. Antoine at, + " church of, + " Fonda (inn) d'España at, +Box plants, +Brada (mountain), +Bread, + " arrival of, +Brêche d'Allanz, + " Fausse, + " de Roland, +Broussette, valley of, +Bué, +Bugaret (mountain), + " torrent of, +Burbe, valley of, +Burnished toes, +Butte du Trésor, +Buvette de Minvieille, + +C. + +Cabaliros, the, +Cabanes du Lys, +Cagots, +Cambo, + " hotels at, +Campan, +Canine absurdity, + " feat, a, +Canton, odours of, +Capercailzie, +Capvern, + " baths of, + " hotels at, +Carmelites, church of the (Bigorre), +Carnival time (Pau), +Cascade d'Arroudet, + " de Cérizey, + " du Coeur, + " de Discoo, + " des Eaux Bonnes, + " d'Enfer, + " du Groshêtre, + " de Laressec, + " de Lassariou, + " du Lutour, + " du Marboré, + " de Montauban, + " de Pisse-Arros, + " de Rioumaou, + " du Serpent, + " de Sidonie, + " du Valentin, +Casino (Luchon), + " (Pau), + " du Portillon (Luchon), + " de Roulette (Luchon), +Castel-Géloos, +Castel-Mouly, +Castel-Vieilh (or Castelvieil) +Castets, +Catarabe, +Cat-fight, +Cauterets, + " baths of, + " excursions from, + " Fruitière of, + " Gorge of, + " hotels of, +Cazaril, +Cazaux, +Céciré (Bosost), + " (Superbagnères), +Cemetery, Luz, + " Pau, +Cercle des Etrangers (Barèges), +Cérizey, cascade of, +Chambre d'Amour (inn), +Chamois, +Chandelles du Marboré, +Chaos, the, +Chapelle de Piétad, + " de St. Antoine, + " de St. Exupère, + " de St. Roch, + " de Solferino, +Château de Beaucens, + " de Despourrins, + " de Géloz, + " de Miramont, + " de Ste. Marie, +Chester, resemblance to, +Cheval, Madame, +Chinaougue, +Church of Montauban, + " Notre Dame, Arreau, + " Notre Dame, Lourdes, + " Piétat, + " St. Jacques, Pau, + " St. Martin, Pau, + " St. Savin, Argelès, + " St. Vincent, Bigorre, + " Sazos, + " Soulom, +Chute de Lapaca, + " la Pique, +Cier de Luchon, +Cierp, +Cirque de Gavarnie, + " Troumouse, +Clérical sensation, +Coarraze, +Coffre d'Ossau, +Col d'Arbéousse, + " d'Aspin, + " d'Aubiste, + " de Bué + " d'Estom Soubiran, + " de Gourzy, + " de Marie Blanque, + " de Peyresourde, + " de Portillon, + " de Riou, + " de Tortes, + " de Tourmalet, +Columbine (_aquilegia_), +Confirmation at Cauterets, +Coteaux, the (Pau), +Cottin, Madame, +Coumélie (mountain), +Couradilles, the, +Coustous, the, + " music on the, +Cowslips, +Crabé (bridge), +Crabioules, glacier of, +Crêre d'Ordincède, +"Crocodile of St. Bertrand," the, +Croix de Manse, + " de Mouguère, +"Cry of the Lourdes Shopkeepers," the, +Cucurlon rock (Biarritz), +Cylindre (du Marboré), + +D. + +Dax, + " baths of, + " hotels at, +Daffodils, +Dangerous footing, +Dear travelling, +Dog-fancier, an excited, +Dragon's-mouth Rock, + +E. + +Eaux Bonnes, 178; + " bathing establishment of, + " cascade of, + " excursions from, +Eaux Bonnes, hotels at, +Eaux Chaudes, + baths at, + excursions from, + grotto of, + hotels at, +Echez, basin of, +Echo, wonderful, +English Church (Bigorre), +Entécade, peak, +Espelette, +Esplanade des Oeufs, +Esquiez, +Esterre, +"Exhortation to the First Snow," + +F. + +Fashion on a donkey, +Fausse Brèche (Gavarnie), +Feather moss, +Females, importunate, +Fête de Payole, +Flight of lizards, +Fontaine de Marnières (Pau) +Fos, +French sportsmen (Pau), +Fuenterabia (_Fr_. Fontarabie), + +G. + +Gabas, +Gabrielle d'Estrelle, +Gan, +Garin, +Garonne, river, + valley of, +Gavarnie, + Cirque of, + hotels of, + Port de, +Gave d'Azun, +Gave de Barèges, +Gave de Bastan, + Cauterets, + Gavarnie, + Héas, + Lutour, + Marcadau, + d'Ossau, + de Pau, +Gazost-les-Bains, +Gèdre, + excursions from, + grotto of, +Géloos, Castel +Gélos, +General information, Appendix D, +Gentians, +Gerde, +Géruzet's marble works, +Ges, +Glacier de Crabioules, +Gorge de Bacheviron, + Cauterets, + du Hourat, +Gouffre d'Enfer, +Granges de Gouron, +Grange de la Reine Hortense, +Gripp, +Grocer's opinion, the (Cauterets), +Grotto of Eaux Chaudes, + Gèdre, + Lourdes, + the Néez, +Grust (St. Sauveur), +Guétary, +"Guide's Auction," the, + +H. + +Héas, + inn, &c., + valley of, +Hendaye, +Hepaticas, +Hermitage of St. Peter (St. Sauveur), +Herrère, stream, +Hospice Civil (Bigorre) + " de France (Luchon) + " de Ste. Eugénie (Barèges) +Hôtel d'Angleterre, Argelès + " Baudot, Eaux Chaudes + " Beau Séjour (Bigorre) + " Canton, Luchon + " de Comminges + " d'España, Bosost + " de France, Argelès + " " Arreau + " " Eaux Bonnes + " " St. Sauveur + " du Parc, Cauterets + " de Paris, Biarritz + " de la Poste, Payole + " " Pierrefitte + " des Pyrénées, Lourdes + " " Louvie-Juzon + " de l'Univers, Luz + " des Voyageurs, Gavarnie +Houn Blanquo +Hourat, Gorge de +Hungry guardian, a +Hyacinths + +I. + +"Idyllic Colbert" (Pau) +Importunate females +Irun +Itsatsou +Izeste + +J. + +Jaca, a +"Jackdaw's Causerie" +Jardin à l'Anglaise (St. Sauveur) + " Darralde + " des Quinconces +"Jay of Barèges," the +"Jeannette's Lamb," +Jonquils +Jurançon + +L. + +Labassère, a + waters of (see Bagneres de Bigorre) +La Brune (Cauterets) +La Casque du Marboré +Lac Bleu + " d'Estibaoute + " d'Estom + " d'Estom Soubiran + " de Gaube + " Vert +"Lady's Farewell to her Asinine Steed," the +Lagas, fountain of +Lamothe +Lapaca, Chute de +Laressec, cascade of, +Laruns + church of + inns at +Lassariou, cascade of +La Tour du Marboré +Lès +Lescar +"Lesson of the Mountains," the +Lime-works (Eaux Bonnes) +_Linaria_ +Liverpool to Bordeaux +Lizards, flight of +Llanberis Pass, resemblance to +London to Bordeaux +London to Paris +Louderville +Lourdes to Argelès + " Bareges + " Cauterets + " Gavarnie + " Luz +Lourdes to Pierrefitte, + St. Sauveur, +Lourdes, + castle of, + chapel of, + church of, + grotto of, + hotels at, + panorama of, +Loures, + inns of, +Louron, valley of, +Louvie-la-Haute, +Louvie-Juzon, +Louvie-Soubiron, +Luchon (see Bagnères de Luchon) +Lunch on the Bergons, +Lutour, cascade of, + valley of, +Luz, + hotels at, + baths of, +Lys, valley of, + +M. + +Marble Works, Géruzet's, +Marboré, the, + Cascade du, + Chandelles du, + Epaule du, + La Casque du, + La Tour du, +"March of the Men of Garlic," the, +Marignac, +Marion, Lake, +Marnières, Fontaine de, +Maucapéra, +Mauléon-Barousse, + Licharre, +Médiabat, bridge of, +Menu (Cauterets), + (Payole), +Mill conduits, +Milord, a, +Minvieille, Buvette de, +Molitg, + baths of, &c., + excursions from, + hotels at, +Monné, Bigorre, + Cauterets, + Rouge, +Montagne de Brada, +Mont Arrouye, +Montaigu, Pic de (see Pic) +Montauban, + church of, + cascade of, +Mont Bédat, + Ferrat, +Montgaillard, +Montrejeau, + buffet of, +Mont Ségu, Bosost, +Morcenx, +Mouguère (cross of), +Mountain rhododendrons, + violets, +Mouriscot, Lake, +Museum (Luchon), + (Luz), + +N. + +Napoleon's pillar (St. Sauveur), +Narcissus, +Nature's voice, +Nay, +Néez, grotto of the, + stream, + valley of, +Négresse (station), +Nestalas, +Neste (river), +Nethou, Pic de, +New "diet of worms," a, +Nivelle (river), +Noah's ark landscape, a, + +O. + +"Old world and the new," the (Pau), +Oloron, + general information, + hotels at, + roads to, +Oo, +Open-air concert, +Ordincède, Crète d', +Orphanage of Notre Dame du Rocher (Luchon), +Orphanage, church of, +Orphéon, the, +Orthez, +Osmunda regalis (fern), +Ossau, Gave d', + Val d', +Ourous, +"Oxen's Appeal," the, +Oxslips, + +P. + +Paillole (see Payole) +Pagoda Villa, the (Cauterets), +Palais de Justice, Pau, +Palomières de Gerde, +Panorama of Lourdes, +Panticosa, + hotels at, +Parc Beaumont, Pau, + du Château, Pau, +Paris to Bagnères de Bigorre, +Paris to Bordeaux, +Paris to Toulouse, +Pasages, +Pas de l'Echelle, +Pas de l'Escalette, +Pas de Roland, +Pau to Eaux Bonnes and Chaudes, +Pau to Lourdes, +Pau to Oloron, +Pau, I, + amusements at, + castle of, + drives, &c., at, + general information, + history of, + hotels of, +Payole, + en fête, 136 +Peasants and their ways, +Peculiar teams, +Peguère, the, +Peña Blanca, +Pêne de l'Heris, +Pêne de Montarqué, +Perpignan, +Perpignan to Amélie, +Perpignan to Molitg, +Perpignan to Vernet, +Perpignan, + chief excursions from, + hotels at, +Peyrehorade, +Peyresourde, Col de, +Pic d'Antenac, +Pic d'Arbizon, +Pic d'Ardiden, +Pic d'Arrens, +Pic d'Aspé, +Pic d'Astazou, +Pic d'Aubiste, +Pic d'Ayré, +Pic de Bergons, +Pic de Boum, +Pic de Bugaret, +Pic de Campbieil, +Pic de Clarabide, +Pic de Crabioules, +Pic de Gabiétou, +Pic de Gabizos, +Pic de Gar, +Pic de Gaube, +Pic de Ger, +Pic de Gourzy, +Pic de Labassa, +Pic du Lac Grand, +Pic de Laruns + de Lienz + de Litouèse + de Maladetta + de Maucapéra + du Midi d'Arrens (see Pic + d'Arrens) + du Midi de Bigorre + du Midi d'Ossau + du Milieu + de la Mine + de Montaigu (near Bigorre) + de Montaigu (near Saint + Sauveur) + de Néouville + de Néré + de Néthou + Rouge de Pailla + de Pez + de la Pique + de Posets + Poujastou + Sacroux + de Sarradets + de Sauvegarde + de Soulom + de Villelongue + de Viscos +Picnicking (Pau) +Pie de Mars +Pierrefitte; + hotels at, + road to +Piétat +Pilgrims +Piméné, the +Pique, valley of +Pitton de Tournefort +Place Royale, Pau + Ste. Eugénie, Biarritz + "Plaint of the Weather-beaten Pine," +Plateau of the Bious-Artigues +Poc (guide) +_Polygala amara_ +_Polygala rosea_ +Pont d'Arrougé + de Benquès + de Crabé + de Desdouroucat + d'Enfer (near Eaux Chaudes) + d'Enfer (near Luz) + d'Espagne + de la Hiladère + de Lestelle + de Nadie + Napoléon + de Pescadère + de Ravi + de Sia + de Villelongue +"Poor Pillicoddy," +Port de Gavarnie + de Peyresourde (see Col de) + de la Picade + de Venasque +Posets, the Peak +Post-office (Luz) +_Potentilla_ +Pragnères +Preste-les-Bains; + baths and hotels of, +_Primula farinosa_ +Promenade Horizontale (Barèges) + de l'Impératrice +Puyoo +Pyramide de Peyrelance +Pyrenean dogs + prices of + treatment of + local terms translated, + some, + songs + +Q. + +Quairat, Pic +Quatre Moulins de Sia + +R. + +Railway information and skeleton routes to the Pyrenees, +_Ramondia pyrenaïca_ +Ravin d'Araillé +Rébénac +Red tape +"Riou," +Rioumaou, cascade of +"Roads up again," +Rocks at Biarritz +Rue d'Enfer (Luchon) + " de la Fontaine (Pau) + +S. + +Saint Antoine, chapel of Aventin + " Béat + " Bernard, statue of + " Bertrand de Comminges to Montrejeau + " Bertrand de Comminges, + " " " " cathedral of + " " " " cloisters of + " " " " history of +St. Christau, + " " hotels at + " Etienne + Jacques Church (Pau) + " Jean de Luz + " " dogs of + " " general information + " Laurent de la Salanque + " Mamet + " " church of + " Martin's Church (Pau) + " Pé + " Pée + " Peter's statue (Lourdes) + " Pierre +St. Sauveur + " " baths of + " " excursions from + " " hotels at + " Savin + " Vincent's Church (Bigorre) +Ste. Marie (near Bigorre) + " (near Oloron) + " (near St. Laurent) + " (near Saléchan) + " baths of +Sakurazawa, memories of +Salies +Saléchan +Salluz (Argelès) +Salut, avenue of +San Sebastian + " chief features of, + " hotels at +Sarsaparilla +Sassis (St. Sauveur) +Sazos (St. Sauveur) +_Scabii_ +Sère (Luz) +Serres +Sévignac +Sia + " bridge of + " Quatre Moulins de +Sidonie, cascade of +Silver beeches +Siradan + " valley of +Skeleton routes and railway information +Sketching advice + " with a donkey-cart +Snow +Some Pyrenean local terms translated +Songs, Pyrenean +Soulom +Soulom, Pic de +Soum de Secugnac +Sour grapes (Pau) +Sourde, valley of +Spanish mules and peasants +Sport, French +"Spring's Bitters and Sweets" +Sugar-loaf Mountain (Gavarnie) +Superbagnères + view from +Swine-feeding + +T. + +Tables of centigrade and Fahrenheit thermometers + of centimetres and inches + of grammes and ounces + of kilometres and miles + of litres and pints + of metres and feet +Taillon, the +Tapêre (stream) +Tarbes + road +Templars' church at Luz +"The Abbé's Song" +"The Argelès Shepherd's Reply" +The Bishop's arrival +The Chaos +"The Crocodile of St. Bertrand" +The Couradilles +"The Guide's Auction" +"The Jackdaw's Causerie" +"The Jay of Barèges" +"The Lady's Farewell to her Asinine Steed" +"The Lesson of the Mountains" +"The March of the Men of Garlic" +"The Organ's Tale" +"The Oxen's Appeal" +"The Plaint of the Weather-beaten Pine" +"The Three Cormorants" +The "witch of the hills" +"Three Cormorants," the +Torrent of Bugaret +Toulouse to Perpignan + road to +Tour des Lacs (Biarritz) +Tour de la Monnaie (Pau) +Tourmalet, Col de +Trained vines +Tramesaïgues +Travellers' troubles +Troumouse, Cirque of +Trous d'Enfer +Tuc de Maupas + +U. + +Urrugne +Ustaritz + +V. + +Valcabrère +Val d'Ossau +Valentin (river) +Vallée d'Aran + d'Arboust + d'Argelès + d'Aspe + d'Aure + de Barèges + de Barousse + de Broussette + de Campan + de Garonne + de Héas + de l'Hospice + de Lesponne + de Lienz + de Louron + de Luchon + history of +Vallée du Lutour + de Luz + du Lys + de Marcadau + du Néez + de la Pique + de Séoube + de Serris + de Siradan + de Sourde (or Soude) +Valley of the Ten Thousand + Rocks (Amoy) +Venasque + Port de +Vernet-les-Bains + baths of + excursions from + hotels at +Via Crucis (Bétharram) +Viella (near Barèges) + (near St. Béat) +Vieuzac +Vignemale, Pic de +Villelongue + Pic de +Villenave +Vines trained by the roadside +Violets + +W. + +Washerwomen and their gamps +Wonderful echo +Wood anemones + +Y. + +Yankee tale, a + +Z. + +Zinc mines + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 10403 *** diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..df8494b --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #10403 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/10403) diff --git a/old/10403-8.txt b/old/10403-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..907dbe4 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/10403-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,10009 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Twixt France and Spain, by E. Ernest Bilbrough + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Twixt France and Spain + +Author: E. Ernest Bilbrough + +Release Date: December 8, 2003 [eBook #10403] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TWIXT FRANCE AND SPAIN*** + + +E-text prepared by Carlo Traverso, Lois Gaudard, and Project Gutenberg +Distributed Proofreaders. This file was produced from images generously +made available by the Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at +http://gallica.bnf.fr. + + + +'TWIXT FRANCE AND SPAIN; + +Or, A Spring in the Pyrenees + +BY + +E. ERNEST BILBROUGH. + + + + + + + +[Illustration: MAP OF THE PYRENEES +(To accompany "TWIXT FRANCE & SPAIN") +With the Principal Peaks, Rivers & Roads.] + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +CHAPTER I. + +PAU. + +Trains and steamers--Bordeaux and its hotels--Lamothe +--Morcenx--Dax--Puyoo--Orthez--First impressions of Pau--The hotels and +pensions--Amusements--Pension Colbert--Making up parties for the +Pyrenees--The Place Royale and the view--The castle of Pau and its +approaches--Origin of name--Historical notes--The towers--Visiting +hours--The tapestries--The wonderful bedstead--The delusive +tortoiseshell cradle--The "Tour de la Monnaie"--The park--The Billères +plains--Tennis and golf--The Route de Billères and the Billères +woods--French _sportsmen_--Hunting--Racing--Lescar and its old +cathedral--Fontaine de Marnières--The bands--The Parc Beaumont +--Ballooning--The Casino--Polo--The cemetery--The churches of +St. Martin and St. Jacques--The "old world and the new"--Rides and +drives--to Bétharram--The start--Peasants and their ways--Vines +trained by the roadside--Sour grapes--The "March of the Men of Garlic" +--Coarraze--Henry IV.'s Castle--Bétharram--The ivied bridge--The +inn--The "Via Crucis"--Assat and Gélos--The Coteaux--Perpignaa +--Sketching with a donkey-cart--Over the Coteaux to Gan--The +drive to Piétat--Picnicking and rejected attentions--The +church--Feather moss--Bizanos--Carnival time--"Poor Pillicoddy" +--"Idyllic Colbert." + + +CHAPTER II. + +BAGNÈRES DE BIGORRE. + +Backward spring--Hôtel Beau Séjour--Effect of the war of '70 on the +English colony--The "Coustous"--The Church of St. Vincent--Géruzet's +marble works--Donkeys--Up the Monné--Bains de Santé--Bains de Grand +Pré--Salut Avenue and baths--"Ai-ue, Ai-ue"--Luncheon--Daffodils--The +summit and the view--The "Castel-Mouly"--The Tapére--Mde. Cottin--Mont +Bédat--Gentians--The Croix de Manse--"The Lady's Farewell to her +Asinine Steed"--Market-day--The old iron and shoe dealers--Sunday--A +cat fight--The English Church--To the Col d'Aspin--"The Abbé's +Song"--Baudéan--Campan, its people and church--Wayside chapels--Ste. +Marie--The route to Gripp, &c.--Payole--The pine forest--The Col +d'Aspin--The view from the Monné Rouge--"The Plaint of the Weather-beaten +Pine"--The Menu at Payole--Hurrah for the milk!--Departures--Divine +music--Asté--Gabrielle d'Estrelle--The ivied ruins--The church-- +Pitton de Tournefort--Gerde--The pigeon traps--The cattle market +--The Jacobin tower--Theatre--Grand Etablissement des Thermes +--Hospice Civil--Eglise des Carmes--Mount Olivet--Madame Cheval, +her cakes and tea--Bigorre in tears + + +CHAPTER III. + +LOURDES. + +The journey to Tarbes--The Buffet and the Nigger--Lourdes station in +the wet--Importunate "Cochers"--Hôtel des Pyrénées--"Red tape" and +Porters--Lourdes in sunshine--Sightseeing--The "Rue de la Grotte"-- +"The Cry of the Lourdes Shopkeepers"--Candle-sellers--The +Grotto--Abject reverence--The Church--Saint Bernard--Interior of +church--The panorama--Admirable effect--Rue du Fort--The castle--The +view from the Tower--Pie de Mars, or Ringed Ousels + + +CHAPTER IV. + +ARGELÈS. + +Road _v_. rail--Scenes, sublime and ridiculous--Hôtel +d'Angleterre--Questions and "The Argelès Shepherd's Reply"--A forbidden +path--The ride to Ges, Serres, Salluz, and Ourous--Argelès +church--Route Thermale--Ges--The tree in the path--"A regular +fix"--Serres--"It's a stupid foal that doesn't know its own mother" +--A frothing stream--A fine view--Pigs in clover--Salluz +--Ourous--Contented villagers--The high road--The bridge on the +Pierrefitte road--Advice to sketchers--"Spring's Bitters and +Sweets"--The "witch of the hills"--Large green lizards--"Jeannette's +Lamb"--Round the Argelès valley--Château de Beaucens--Villelongue-- +Soulom--The old church--Hôtel de la Poste, Pierrefitte--St. Savin--The +verger and the ancient church--Cagots--"The Organ's Tale"--St. Savin's +tomb--The Château de Miramont--Jugged Izard--Market-day--Sour bread and +the remedy--Arrival of the first parcel. + + +CHAPTER V. + +CAUTERETS. + +Hôtel de la Poste, Pierrefitte--The Gorge--Its majestic beauty--The +resemblance to the Llanberis Pass--Mrs. Blunt becomes poetical--Zinc +mines--Le Pont de Médiabat--Entering the town--The Rue Richelieu and +Hôtel du Parc--Winter's seal upon them still--Thermes des +Oeufs--Thermes de César--The Casino and Esplanade des Oeufs--A good +dinner and the menu--The start for the Col de Riou--The Grange de la +Reine Hortense--The pines--Miss Blunt's "Exhortation to the First +Snow"--The dogs and their gambols--Defeated, but not discouraged--To +the Cérizey Cascade--The baths of La Raillère, Petit St. Sauveur, and +Le Pré--Cascade de Lutour--The Marcadau Gorge--Scenery--Pic de +Gaube--At the Cérizey Cascade--The Pont d'Espagne and Lac de +Gaube--Pont de Benqués--Lutour valley--Various excursions up same--The +"Parc"--Allées de Cambasque--The Peguère--The "Pagoda" villa-- +Promenade du Mamelon Vert--The road's up again--Blows and blasts--The +bishop's arrival--Enthusiasm, pomposity, and benedictions--The pilgrims +at large--They start on an excursion--The market and Hôtel de +Ville--The grocer's opinion--Pyrenean dogs and their treatment--The +dog-fancier--Smiles and temper--Bargaining displaced--No dog after all! + + +CHAPTER VI. + +LUZ AND BARÈGES. + +Rain at starting--A blighted view, yet lovely still--Pont +d'Enfer--Nature's voice--Sère and Esquiez--Luz--Its situation and +status--An old house--The ancient church of the Templars--La Chapelle +de St. Roch--Pyrenean museum--Hôtel de l'Univers--Château de Ste. +Marie--"The Jackdaw's Causerie"--A new "diet of worms"--The new +bathing establishment--To Barèges--Pic d'Ayré--Esterre--Viella +--Betpouey--Mill conduits--Cercle des Etrangers--Opinion of the +town--Grand Etablissement--Promenade Horizontale--Hospice de Ste. +Eugénie--"The Jay of Barèges"--Wood anemones--Hepaticas--Valley +of Lienz--Pic de Lienz--Pic d'Ayré's summit--Pic de Néouville--Mountain +rhododendrons--_Anemone vernalis_ + + +CHAPTER VII. + +ST. SAUVEUR. + +Pont de Pescadère--Sassis--Gave de Gavarnie--St. Sauveur--Hôtel de +France--Pont Napoléon--Napoleon's pillar--Bee orchids--Chapel of +Solferino--The view from thence--Ne'er a hermit but for gold--Luz +cemetery--Luz post-office--Short cuts--Pharmacie Claverie--Jardin à +l'Anglaise--Ascent of Pic de Bergons--Villenave--The shepherds' +huts--Lunch--Snow, its use and abuse--On foot--"Excelsior"--Dangerous +footing--The last crest but one--The view--Gavarnie and Argelès in +sight--A lazy guide--A "fast" bit--Mountain flowers--Mr. Sydney to the +fore--A short walk and a good view--To Sazos and Grust--The bathing +establishments--Sazos: the old church--The belfry--Chiming +extraordinary--Various promenades--Gems of hill and vale + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +GAVARNIE. + +A "falling glass"--The wonderful echo--Cascade Lassariou--Sia and its +bridge--Pont de Desdouroucat--"Changing scenes"--Bugaret torrent--The +Piméné--Bué--Gèdre--Brêche de Roland in the distance--The +"Grotto"--Scenery at fivepence per head--Daffodils--Lofty +summits--Cascade d'Arroudet--Chaos--Valley of the "Ten Thousand Rocks," +Amoy--A dirty avalanche--The Sugar-loaf--Travellers' troubles +--Importunate females--Hotel des Voyageurs--Poc--Guide or no +guide--Chute de Lapaca--The guardian summits of the Cirque--Cascade du +Marboré--Chandelles du Marboré--The Cirque--Its marvellous +beauty--Reluctantly returning--"The Guide's Auction"--"Two women +enough for a market, and three for a fair"--A Yankee tale--Sketching +and flowers--Tempers and appetites + + +CHAPTER IX. + +FROM LUZ AND ST. SAUVEUR TO BAGNÈRES DE LUCHON. + +A smiling valley--Lourdes again--The chapel in the crypt--St. Peter's +statue--Burnished toes--Solemn quietude--Preparing for the great +pilgrimage--"Ornamented" crosses--Mr. Sydney's new vocation, "Guide, +Philosopher, and Friend"--Bigorre again--An open-air concert +--Harmonious echoes--Paying through the nose--The fête at +Payole--Sport à la française--Costumes--The view from the Col +d'Aspin--Arreau--Quaint houses--La Chapelle de St. Exupère--A whining +"gardien"--Eglise de Notre Dame--The river Neste--Hôtel de +France--Bordères--Avajan--Louderville--Oxslips and cowslips--Wild +narcissus--Col de Peyresourde--The view--Garin--Cazaux--St. +Aventin--Lovely avenues--Our destination + + +CHAPTER X. + +BAGNÈRES DE LUCHON. + +The bathing establishment and its surroundings--The lovely +_Allées_--Montauban church and cascade--The Villa Russe and its +genial host--Various excursions--Orphanage of Notre Dame de +Rocher--The Vallée du Lys--The Rue d'Enfer and cascades--A lively +scene--The view from Superbagnères--Loading wood--"The Oxen's +Appeal"--Visit to the Orphanage--A "holy" relic--To Bosost--St. +Mamet--"A stumbling-block"--Cascade of Sidonie--Horse tricks and +jockey dodges--Lizards in flight--Fashion on a donkey--On the Portillon +'twixt France and Spain--The valley of Aran--Snug Bosost--A curious +inn--Children with artistic bent--A bright pathway--Missing much, but +thankful still + + +CHAPTER XI. + +ST. BERTRAND DE COMMINGES. + +Keeping to old friends--Valley history--Entering the Garonne +valley--The picturesque St. Béat--St. Béat to Viella--Memories of the +lovely Thames--Baths of Ste. Marie--Loures--The cross-roads--Weak +walls--Entering St. Bertrand--An ancient house--The inn--A charming +garden--The cathedral--A national disgrace--"The Crocodile of St. +Bertrand"--The tomb of Hugues de Chatillon--Travelling desecraters--St. +Bertrand's rod--The ruined cloisters--Desolation--Swine +feeding--Montrejeau--The buffet--No milk!--French railway +officials--Trying experiences + + +CHAPTER XII. + +EAUX BONNES AND EAUX CHAUDES. + +Carriage _v_. diligence--Early birds--Height of absurdity +--Diminutive donkeys--A whitened region--"Crystal clear"--Washerwomen +and their gamps--A useful townhall--A half-way house--Moralising--A +much-loved pipe--An historic ruin--A noteworthy strong box--"Ici on +rase"--Where are the bears?--Women in gaiters--Picturesque costumes--A +lovely road--A "perfect" cure--A spring scene--A billiard-playing +priest--A well-placed pavilion--The Valentin and its cascades-- +Through solid rock--Gaps in the road--A grand scene--Wanted, an +artist--A fine torrent--Professional fishers--Lucky guests +--Musings--Poor Mr. Tubbins--Bonnes _v_. Chaudes--Over the +Col de Gourzy--Peculiar teams--Guelder roses--Spinning + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +BIARRITZ. + +A warm ride--Bayonne--A "Noah's ark" landscape-- +Amusements--Bathing--Shells--Cavillers--A canine feat--The pier and +rocks--A restless sea--"The Three Cormorants"--Dragon's-mouth Rock--To +the lighthouse--Maiden-hair ferns--Mrs. Blunt's adventure--The drive +round the lakes--_Osmunda regalis_ ferns--The pine-woods near the +bar--St. Etienne and the Guards' cemetery--Croix de Mouguère--Cambo and +the Pas de Roland--Anemones--A fat couple--A French scholar--Hendaye-- +Fuenterabia--A quaint old-world town--The Bidassoa--Pasages--San +Sebastien--The Citadol and graves--The "Silent Sisters"--Raised +prices--Parasols and spectacles + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +CONCLUSION. + +"Where duty leads"--Resorts in the Eastern Pyrenees--Caen--"Riou"--Our +paths diverge--"The Lesson of the Mountains"--Farewell + + * * * * * + +APPENDIX A + +APPENDIX B + +APPENDIX C + +APPENDIX D + +INDEX + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. + + + +MAP OF THE PYRENEES + +DAX + +THE TOWER OF MONCADE, ORTHEZ + +PAU (FROM THE JURANÇON SIDE OF THE GAVE) + +THE CASTLE COURTYARD + +IN THE CASTLE PARK + +THE PINE FOREST NEAR THE COL D'ASPIN + +THE "PALOMIÈRES DE GERDE" + +LOURDES (A SMALL GENERAL VIEW) + +THE "OLD FORT" AT LOURDES + +ON THE ROAD TO ARGELÈS + +A "REGULAR Fix" (by Miss BLUNT) + +A PRETTY BIT AT ARGELÈS + +CAUTERETS + +THE ASCENT OF THE COL DE Riou (by Miss BLUNT) + +THE LAC DE GAUBE + +THE GORGE NEAR PIERREFITTE + +THE ANCIENT CHURCH OF THE TEMPLARS AT LUZ + +THE CASTLE OF STE. MARIE + +BARÈGES + +ST. SAUVEUR + +PONT NAPOLÉON, ST. SAUVEUR (by Miss BLUNT) + +THE VILLAGE OF GÈDRE + +THE CHAOS NEAR GAVARNIE + +THE CIRQUE OF GAVARNIE (IN SUMMER) + +"ON THE TAREES ROAD" + +THE PEARL IN THE PEERLESS VALLEY + +THE CHURCH OF MONTAUBAN (by Miss BLUNT) + +THE RUE D'ENFER AND THE CASCADES + +ON THE ROAD TO SUPERBAGNÈRES + +ST. BERTRAND DE COMMINGES + +THE CROCODILE OF ST. BERTRAND (by Miss BLUNT) + +IN THE OLD CHURCH AT LARUNS + +CASCADE DU VALENTIN + +CRABE BRIDGE, IN THE EAUX CHAUDES GORGE + +THE BIOUS-ARTIGUES + +THE PIC DE GER + +THE ROCKS OF BIARRITZ + +THE VILLA EUGÉNIE + +MRS. BLUNT'S ADVENTURE (by Miss BLUNT):-- + + SCENE I.--BEFORE THE START + SCENE II.--THE ANCIENT STEED GREW YOUNG ONCE MORE + SCENE III.--WHO'S MY DRIVER? + +"MY PAW IS ON MY NATIVE HEATH, AND MY NAME IS 'Riou'" (by Miss BLUNT) + +"SEE MORNING'S GOLDEN RAYS," &c. + +"TOWERING ABOVE THE PLAIN" + +PANORAMA OF THE CIRQUE OF THE VALLÉE DU LYS + +PANORAMA OF THE PIC DU MIDI DE BIGORRE + + + + +PREFACE. + + +It has been my endeavour in this volume to provide an illustrated +gossiping Guide to the Spas of the Pyrenees. Unlike previous books +on the same region, it deals with the resorts in spring, when they +are most charming. A certain amount of detail--which is unavoidable +in all guide-books--has been unavoidable here, and the rhymes have +been introduced in the hope of lightening the reading. These +rhymes, as a rule, have a distinct bearing on the subject under +discussion; but they are inserted in such a manner that the reader +can omit to read them--if he objects to such frivolities--without +losing the sense of the prose. + +Very little really fresh information has been gained about these +beautiful mountains since Mr. Charles Packe published his 'Guide to +the Pyrenees' in 1867: a few more springs have been discovered, a +few more mountains have been successfully ascended, and the towns +have gradually increased in size. There have been very few of those +melancholy accidents that we so often hear of from Switzerland, +because, probably, considerably fewer tourists attempt these +mountains than attempt the Alps. In this volume no descriptions of +scaling ice-walls, searching for the lammergeiers' nests, or any +other great feats, will be found. It contains a plain account of +what may be seen and done by any party visiting the mountain +resorts in spring, without much trouble or fatigue; and the +narrative form has been adopted throughout. + +M. Doré's illustrations speak for themselves; and Miss Blunt's +spirited sketches are a valuable acquisition. + +The Appendices have been compiled with great care; and--at the +suggestion of an experienced M.D.--brief comments on the chief +springs at the various Spas, and their healing properties, have +been included in the general information. + +I beg to acknowledge my indebtedness to M. Joanne's 'Pyrenees' and +Mr. Black's 'Summer Resorts;' and I have also great pleasure in +thanking Miss Blunt for her sketches, and my friend Mr. A. H. Crow, +F.R.G.S., for his kindly assistance in correcting inaccuracies. As, +however, it is extremely difficult to completely avoid them, I +shall feel obliged for the notification of any others that may +happen to exist. + +E. E. B. + + + +INTRODUCTION. + +Considering the number of English and Americans who yearly visit +Switzerland and the Riviera, it is astonishing that so few, +comparatively, ever think of approaching nearer to the Pyrenees +than Pau. And it is more astonishing still, that those who have +been enabled to enjoy the beauty of these mountains from the Place +Royale at Pau, should ever think of leaving their vicinity without +a more intimate acquaintance with them. + +It may be, that since the various resorts have gained celebrity for +the healing powers of their waters, healthy travellers are of +opinion that they will be surrounded by a crowd of sickly +individuals, whose very appearance will spoil all the pleasure that +they might otherwise experience. That this _might be_ the case _in +the season_, at a few spas, is not to be denied, but _in spring_ +not an invalid of that kind is to be met with, and the bathing +establishments have no customers; but the scenery is everywhere at +its best. Dr. Madden writes: "The attractions of the Pyrenees are +not, however, confined to the invalid traveller, but even for the +pleasure tourist offer inducements for a pedestrian excursion in +some respects superior to any in Switzerland;" and there can be no +doubt that they have a beauty of their own quite distinct from the +grandeur of the Alps, and yet equally as wonderful in its style. + +Extending for nearly 300 miles from the foaming billows of the +Biscay to the azure waters of the Mediterranean, they form a huge +barrier "'twixt France and Spain"; gaining their name of Pyrenees +from the words "Pic Nérés," which in the _patois_ of the country +signifies "black peaks!" That this title is a misnomer for all but +three months of the year--viz., from July to October--must be +already a well-known fact; for who would call them "black" when +clothed in their garments of snow? + +The highest summits are in the Maladetta group, and the Pic Nethou +(11,170 ft.) is the highest of all; while the average height of +this magnificent range of mountains is between five and six +thousand feet. + +Luxurious valleys branch out in all directions, fed by the mountain +streams, and among the central heights the wonderful natural +amphitheatres known as Cirques stand in majestic solitude. The +Cirque of Gavarnie--the best known--possesses on a bright day in +spring such a charm, in its snowy imperial splendour, as the Alps +would fail to surpass. In scenes where a lake adds such wonderful +effect, Switzerland is quite supreme; we know of no view in the +Pyrenees, of a comparable nature, that could pretend to vie with +the harmonious loveliness of the panorama that can be seen at +sunset from Montreux across Lac Leman, when the water is rippleless +and the mountains are bathed in a rosy flood. But for all that, in +other ways--in flower-clothed slopes, in luxurious valleys, in +winding rivers and foaming cascades--the Pyrenees present pictures +that, with the freshness of springtime to aid them, cannot fail to +delight and charm. + +Four roads cross the Pyrenees from France to Spain: the Route +Nationale, from Paris to Madrid _viâ_ Bayonne; the Route +Départementale, from Bayonne to Pampeluna _viâ_ the Col d'Urdax; the +Route Nationale, from Perpignan to Barcelona _viâ_ Gerona; and the +route from Pau to Jaca _viâ_ Oloron. There are other ways of entering +Spain by the Cols (passes), but over these a horse track is the +broadest path. + +The principal bathing resorts on the French side are connected by +the splendid Route Thermale, which extends for 70 miles; but, owing +to its exposed position in some parts, especially between Eaux +Bonnes and Argelès, and Barèges and Ste. Marie, it is only wholly +open three or four months in the year! + +Of the mineral springs it is sufficient to state here that, within +the same extent of country, no other part of Europe can present +such a wonderful choice. There are three principal kinds--the +sulphurous, the saline, and the ferruginous; and over 200 springs +contribute to them. Some resorts have waters of each of these +classes, and many have at any rate two out of the three. + +Of these, fuller information is given in the Appendix, as well as +the chief uses of each, and the affections for which they have been +successfully used. + +As regards sport, unattended by much labour or fatigue, the +Pyrenees can hardly be recommended, except perhaps for fishing. +There is very good fishing in several of the rivers, but unhappily +French conservancy laws are so lax--if indeed they have any at all +--that peasants may frequently be seen at the waterside with a rod +in one hand and a capacious net in the other, so that if +unsuccessful with the first, they will at any rate not come home +empty-handed; unless some brother "sportsman" has just preceded +them over the same pools! + +Though the wolves have nearly all been poisoned, there are still +some bears to shoot in winter, and izard (a species of chamois) and +capercailzie to pursue in autumn; but the "sportsmen" are many and +the game few, and the way to their haunts lies by bad and +unfrequented paths; so that "le jeu ne vaut pas la chandelle." To +the botanist and the geologist, however, there is a splendid field, +which, varying in richness according to the locality, is more or +less rich everywhere; and besides these, the entomologist will not +visit this territory in vain. To the mountaineer these almost +numberless summits offer attractions of all kinds, from the wooded +slope with its broad mule-path, to the ice-wall only to be scaled +by the use of the rope and the hatchet. There are ascents which a +child almost might attempt in safety, and there are others where +the bravest men might well quail. + +For the ordinary pedestrian, beautiful walks abound in the vicinity +of nearly every Spa, but near St. Sauveur, Luchon, Eaux Chaudes, +and Argelès they are, we think, most charming. The roads on the +whole are excellent, and the hotels, with hardly any exceptions, +particularly clean and comfortable; and, with the one drawback of +the bread (see Appendix D)--which can be easily remedied--the food +is well cooked and well served. + +It must be understood that the succeeding chapters only describe-- +or attempt to describe--scenes that every one in moderate health +can go and enjoy for themselves, and it is in the hope that a few +more may be induced to visit the region about which they speak, +that they have ever seen the light. For accurate information about +the mountains and the best means of ascending them, no better +guide-books could be wanted than Count Russell's 'Grandes +Ascensions des Pyrénées' [Footnote: Hachette et Cie., Paris.] in +French and English, and Mr. Chas. Packe's 'Guide to the Pyrenees'; +[Footnote: Longmans and Co., London.] while for information of all +kinds Monsieur P. Joanne's 'Pyrenees,' [Footnote: Hachette et Cie., +Paris.] in French, could hardly be surpassed. For the ordinary +traveller Mr. Black's 'South of France Summer Resorts, Pyrenees,' +&c., is a compact and useful companion; and for guidance in matters +medical, Dr. Madden's 'Spas of the Pyrenees' and Dr. Lee's 'Baths +of France' are exceedingly valuable. + +With these preliminary remarks we beg to refer the reader to our +experiences of 'A Spring in the Pyrenees.' + + + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +PAU. + +Trains and Steamers--Bordeaux and its Hotels--Lamothe--Morcenx-- +Dax--Puyoo--Orthez--First impressions of Pau--The Hotels and +Pensions--Amusements--Pension Colbert--Making up parties for the +Pyrenees--The Place Royale and the view--The Castle of Pau and its +approaches--Origin of name--Historical notes--The Towers--Visiting +hours--The Tapestries--The Wonderful Bedstead--The Delusive +Tortoiseshell Cradle--The "Tour de la Monnaie"--The Park--The +Billères Plains--Tennis and Golf--The Route de Billères and the +Billères Woods--French _Sportsmen_--Hunting--Racing--Lescar and its +old Cathedral--Fontaine de Marnières--The Bands--The Pare Beaumont +--Ballooning--The Casino--Polo--The Cemetery--The Churches of St. +Martin and St. Jacques--The "Old World and the New"--Rides and +Drives--to Bétharram--The Start--Peasants and their ways--Vines +trained by the roadside--Sour Grapes--The "March of the Men of +Garlic"--Coarraze--Henry IV.'s Castle--Bétharram--The Ivied Bridge +--The Inn--The "Via Crucis"--Assat and Gélos--The Coteaux-- +Perpignaa--Sketching with a Donkey-cart--Over the Coteaux to Gan-- +The Drive to Piétat--Picnicking and Rejected Attentions--The +Church--Feather Moss--Bizanos--Carnival time--"Poor Pillicoddy"-- +"Idyllic Colbert." + + +Few Winter Resorts have gained a greater celebrity than Pau, and +its popularity yearly increases. Fifty years ago its English +visitors might have been counted by tens; to-day they must be +reckoned by thousands. But this is only during the winter and +spring; in summer it is almost entirely deserted by foreigners, few +people in fact, unless compelled by circumstances, staying after +May has passed into June. + +For many reasons it has become a favourite resort for invalids, an +important one being, its exceedingly accessible position. +Notwithstanding that it is 776 miles distant from London, fewer +changes are requisite than for many a journey of less than a +quarter of the distance. The quickest way from London is _viâ_ +Dover, Calais, Paris, Bordeaux and Dax; and as a through sleeping +carriage can be obtained from Paris to Pau, that part of the +journey is anything but formidable. For those who prefer the sea +route, the fine boats of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company which +start from Liverpool are the most preferable conveyance, though the +less expensive steamers belonging to the General Steam Navigation +Company, sailing from London, are comfortable enough in fine +weather. The former land their passengers at Pauillac, whence they +proceed to Bordeaux by tender or train; but the latter boats, being +smaller, can come right up to Bordeaux, which is a decided +advantage. + +Though the third port in France, Bordeaux can certainly not be +recommended as a stopping-place unless necessity requires it, for +the hotel-keepers generally succeed in reaping a rich harvest from +travellers passing through. + +The Hôtel de Nantes is the nearest to the quay, but the Hôtel +Richelieu will be found more moderate and more comfortable. In the +town, the grand Hôtel de France has the best reputation, but "birds +of passage" have apparently to pay for it, whereas old stagers +concur in saying that for _gentlemen_--especially those who +appreciate a good dinner--the best place is the Hôtel de Bayonne. + +Bordeaux has many fine buildings and objects of interest over which +a week can be easily spent, and for this length of time the hotel +prices are in proportion considerably less per diem; but in winter +it is especially bleak and cold, and travellers are advised to get +on to Dax or Pau as quickly as possible. The railway journey of one +hundred and forty-five miles to Pau occupies as a rule about six +hours, passing Lamothe, Morcenx, Dax, Puyoo, and Orthez. Lamothe +[Footnote: See Appendix.] (25 miles) is the junction for Arcachon, +[Footnote: See Appendix.] the celebrated winter station among the +pines, situated on the shores of a landlocked bay; and Morcenx +[Footnote: See Appendix.] (68 miles), is likewise the junction for +the Tarbes line and Bigorre. + +Dax [Footnote: See Appendix.] (92 miles) has a well-deserved +reputation for its baths, and possesses several mineral bathing +establishments, of which the "Grand Etablissement des Thermes" +stands first. The mud baths are perhaps more celebrated than those +of steam or water, being especially efficacious in severe, and +often apparently otherwise incurable, cases of rheumatism. There +are also some pleasant walks by the River Adour, and in the +neighbourhood there is a bed of fossil salt. + +Puyoo [Footnote: See Appendix.] (111-1/2 miles) is the junction for +the Bayonne line, but is without other interest. + +[Illustration: DAX.] + +Orthez [Footnote: See Appendix.] (120-3/4 miles) is of historic +interest and possesses some noteworthy remains. M. Doré has +represented the Tour de Moncade, built in 1240, with mediaeval +surroundings, and not quite as it may be seen now. It was the scene +of many of Gaston Phoebus' greatest crimes. The old fourteenth- +century bridge over the river, with its central tower, could tell +some tales too, if we could discover "sermons in stones"; and the +plain below the town was the scene of one of Wellington's many +victories in 1814. + +Two coaches start from Orthez, one to Salies (10 miles), celebrated +for its salt springs, and the other to Mauléon-Licharre, a +picturesque spot where fine views, cascades, and ruins abound. + +[Illustration: THE TOWER OF MONCADE, ORTHEZ.] + +Passing the ancient town of Lescar (140-1/2 miles)--of which we +shall have more to say later--the train is soon drawn up in the +station of Pau, and directly the traveller shows his face outside, +he is hailed by the "cochers" from the various hotels in a +bewildering chorus. This is the same, _more_ or _less_, at every +French town where English people congregate, and Pau only inclines, +if anything, towards the "_more_." + +The first impression conveyed when leaving the station and passing +along the Avenue de la Gare, is, that the town is mainly composed +of the castle and magnificent hotels which tower above the station. +This, to a certain extent, is correct, for they occupy a large +area, and the views from the windows of the hotels, as well as from +those of the castle, are the finest in the town. Issuing from the +Avenue into the "Place de la Monnaie," the ruins of the "Mint" +tower, and above them the castle itself, come into full view, after +which the road continues along the Rue Marca for a short distance, +branching afterwards to the right into the most ancient square of +the town, the Place Grammont. + +The hotels de la Poste and Henri IV. are here situated, but the +roads to the various other hotels and pensions diverge in different +directions. To the right up the Rue Bordenave and along the Rue +Henri IV. is the route to all the finest hotels, of which the +"France" is the best, and the "Gassion" the most imposing; the +others are the Belle Vue, Splendide, Beau Séjour, and de la Paix, +all with the exception of the last possessing the magnificent +mountain view, but although from the windows of the "Paix" only a +side glimpse can be obtained, yet at the same time this hotel faces +the "Place Royale," the popular resort of all classes in Pau. From +the left-hand corner of the Place Grammont a narrow street leads to +the fine church of St. Jacques, which is also the nearest way to +the grand Hôtel Continental near Trinity Church, and the Pension +Hattersly in the Rue Porte Neuve. But the route more to the left +still, leading up the hill and joining the Route de Bordeaux, past +the Haute Plante parade ground, is the usual one followed, +especially for the Pensions--Lecour, Nogués, and Maison Pieté in +the Rue d'Orléans; Pension Etcherbest, in the Passage Planté Hôtel +de Londres, on the route de Billères; and Maison Colbert, in the +Rue Montpensier. + +Well knowing the comfort of a good pension, and intending to make a +long stay, we drove straight from the station to the well-known +Maison Colbert, and were soon as comfortable as we could wish. +There are many people we are aware who detest "pensions." "We don't +approve," say they, "of meals at fixed hours, of a drawing-room +common to all, and of such a small house that everybody must know +everyone else before the first dinner is over!" Well! why should +they? They can go to the hotels; but let all those who are +suffering or delicate put away thin-skinned feelings of +superiority, till they have a good enough constitution to support +them, and in the meantime seek peace and kindness, such as may be +experienced at the Pension Colbert. + +If, on the other hand, it can be taken as a criterion that those +living in hotels are not invalids, then the visitor contingent of +Pau must consist principally of healthy people, who prefer a good +climate and lively society to the attractions that England and +America have to offer from October to May. This is hardly correct, +but there can be no doubt that more than half the foreigners +[Footnote: From the French standpoint--i.e., English and American.] +who come for that period, do so for comfort and pleasure alone. And +it is not to be wondered at. Who, that was untrammelled by the +cares of business, or shortened purse-strings, but would not gladly +exchange the bill of fare England has to offer, of London fogs, +east winds, Scotch mists, and Irish dynamite, for the handsome menu +awaiting him at Pau? Drives, kettledrums, dinners, balls, lawn +tennis, polo, pigeon-shooting, golf, racing and hunting; and, if he +particularly wishes it, a balloon ascent as well. This last-named +is an expensive pleasure, as the aeronaut, judging by the prices on +the bill, requires a substantial fee, and it is besides an +amusement life insurance companies do not readily countenance. + +Of course, if one comes to Pau merely for enjoyment, hotel life may +be preferable to that in a pension, though our experiences of the +latter mode have been very pleasant ones. It is so easy to make up +a small party for a drive or a picnic, and being all in one house +there is but little chance of any mishaps before starting, such as +individuals forgetting the time that had been fixed and keeping the +rest waiting. Above all, when planning a tour into the Pyrenees, it +is essentially necessary to form a party of some sort, if the trip +is to be carried out in the spring; for although, as we shall +endeavour to show later, the scenery is then at its best, still, +since it is not _the_ season, only one or two hotels are open in +each resort, and society is "nil." + +Then further, when people are going to travel in company for +several weeks it is well that at least they should know something +of one another, for if they all commenced "pulling different ways" +up in the mountains, the safety, or at any rate the composure of +each, would be likely to suffer. My own relations, who were with me +at first, left for England long before the mountain trip was +arranged, but we made up a very pleasant quartette before the time +for starting arrived, and accordingly visited Pau in company as +well as the mountains. This quartette consisted of Mrs. and Miss +Blunt, Mr. Sydney and myself, and though it will be seen by +subsequent chapters that the trio decided on staying a fortnight at +Biarritz in preference to following my example and spending the +time at Bagnères de Bigorre, yet we made arrangements to meet +either at Lourdes or Argelès and thenceforward to travel in +company. + +To see Pau in its beauty, winter must have given place to spring. +When the grass once more begins to grow, the trees to unfold their +tender leaves, the rivers to swell, and the birds to sing; while +yet the sun's rays cannot pierce the snowy garment on the distant +heights; then Pau is in her beauty. Passing--as we so often passed +--down the Rue Montpensier and the consecutive Rue Serviez, into the +Rue du Lycée, then turning from it to the right for a short +distance, till, with the English club at the corner on our left, we +turned into the Place Royale, and, with the fine theatre frowning +on our backs, quickly made our way between the rows of plane-trees, +but just uncurling their leaves, to the terrace whence the whole +enormous expanse of mountain can be viewed, our admiration at the +magnificent scene unfolded before us never diminished. But our +favourite time was at sunset, especially one of those warm ruddy +sunsets that tint the heavens like a superb red canopy. + +Then, leaning on the terrace wall, we admired in silence. Beneath +us lay part of the town and the railway station, the river beyond, +in one part divided and slowly flowing over its stony bed among the +alder bushes; at another, gathered together again, rushing +furiously along as though impatient to lose itself for ever in the +depths of the ocean. + +[Illustration: PAU (FROM THE JURANÇON SIDE OF THE GAVE).] + +Beyond the river, amid the varied green of tree and meadow, nestled +the scattered villages, with the hills above, here brown with bare +vineyards, there vying with the meadow's green; and in the +background behind and above all, the mighty range of snow mountains +extending as far as eye could reach, and fading in the dim haze of +distance. Then, as the sun sank lower, the soft rosy hue shone on +the castle windows, glinted through the trees of the Château Park, +dyed the swift waters of the river, and tipped the snowy crests +afar. There are few, we think, who would not, as we did, enjoy +fully the contemplation of such a scene. + +From the Place Royale to the Château is a very short distance; +turning to the right past the Church of St. Martin--a fine well- +built edifice--and the Hôtel Gassion, it stands in full view, and +the broad walk passing beneath the side arches leads into the +courtyard. In order to obtain a good view of the entrance and the +towers that guard it, it is preferable to approach the castle by +the Rue Henri IV. (a continuation of the Rue du Lycée that passes +between the theatre and the end of the Place Royale), which, when +the shops are left behind, suddenly curves to the left, to the foot +of the bridge leading direct to the main entrance. It is worth +while to stand on the bridge for a short time, and survey the whole +scene, which can hardly fail to carry the thoughts back to olden +times, and as the castle is so intimately connected with the town +of Pau, a few explanatory historical facts will not, we trust, be +considered out of place before continuing the inspection of the +edifice. The origin of the name of Pau is the Spanish "Palo," a +"stick" or a "stake," and takes us back to the time when the +Saracens had taken possession of a large part of Spain and were +making raids beyond the Pyrenees. Feeling their unprotected +position, the inhabitants of the Gave Valley made over a piece of +ground to a Prince of Bearn, on the condition that he should erect +a fortress for their defence thereon. This he agreed to do, and as +the extent of his allotment was marked out by "stakes," the castle +became known as the castle of "stakes" or Palo, which in time +became Pau. + +Its commanding position and appearance inspired confidence, and +houses soon sprang up around; and, at least a century before the +birth of Henry IV., Pau had become an important place. In time it +became the capital of the kingdom of Navarre, and later, when +Navarre, Bearn, and the "Pays Basques" were constituted as one +department in 1790, it still retained its position as chief town. + +Now to resume our inspection from the bridge. The two towers in +full view on either side of the sculptured façade, are the finest +and most prominent of the six that flank the castle, but there is +one in the interior of the court of more interest. The highest of +these two is the donjon on the left, built of brick, and known as +"La Tour de Gaston Phoebus" (112 feet). Its walls are over eight +feet in thickness. The tower on the right is known as "La Tour +Neuve," while the most interesting is that known as "La Tour de +Montaüset" or "Monte-Oiseau," in which are the ancient dungeons and +oubliettes. The porter has rooms on the ground-floor of the Gaston +Phoebus Tower, and his wife sells photographs singly and in books. +Outside, underneath and adjoining the same tower, is a small modern +(1843) chapel. + +The hours for visiting the interior of the Château are between 10 +and 12 and 2 and 4 daily, and the entrance is free, though the +guide expects a gratuity, say of one franc for one person, two +francs for three. As we were always lucky enough to be the only +people wanting to inspect, at the particular hour we went--which +was always as near ten as possible--we managed by judicious means +to calm the impetuosity of the guide, and induce him to tell his +tale slowly. If, as usually happens, other people are there at the +same time, he rattles off his lesson at such a pace that it +requires very good French scholars to even _follow_ him; to +remember what he says is out of the question. Whether by "more +judicious means," it would be possible to induce him to go round +out of hours, we do not know, never having had occasion to try, but +we certainly think it would be worth an attempt, if the visitors +could not otherwise manage to hit a time when they could go over +alone. + +Passing under one of the three arches of the façade, we traversed +the courtyard to the extremity, and while waiting for the guide to +come to us at the small side door, examined the curious sculptures +surrounding the window on the left. On the door being opened we +passed into the Salle des Gardes, and from that into the Salle à +Manger, where stands a statue of Henry IV., supposed to be more +like him than any other. Then through a succession of rooms and up +flights of stairs, and through rooms again, to describe which as +they deserve would alone fill up a small volume, but this we do not +intend to do, contenting ourselves with simply mentioning as much +of what we saw as we hope may induce everyone to follow our +example, and see them for themselves. To any lovers of a grand +view, that which may be seen from the upper windows of the castle +is almost alone worth coming for, and the tapestry which lines the +walls of many of the rooms is simply exquisite. + +The "Sports and Pastimes of the various Months" of Flanders work, +in the "Salle des Etats"--the six pieces of Gobelin work in the +Queen's Boudoir on the first floor--the five pieces of the same +work, including "Venus's toilet," in Queen Jeanne's room on the +second floor, and the four pieces of Brussels in Henry IV.'s +bedroom--also on the second floor--are only a few of the many +wonderful pieces of tapestry. + +[Illustration: THE CASTLE COURTYARD.] + +In the "Grand Reception Room," in which the massacres took place in +1569, is a fine mosaic table and Sèvres vases, besides the Flanders +tapestry. + +There are several objects of interest in Henry IV.'s room, in which +he is said to have been born 13th December, 1553, including the +magnificently carved bedstead; but the chief attraction is the +tortoise-shell cradle, which as a rule Frenchmen come only to see. +Why they should come is quite a different matter, seeing that +although a tortoise's shell might make a very comfortable cradle +for even such an illustrious infant as was Henry IV., yet as he +never had anything to do with the one in question, it is rather +absurd that year after year they should flock to see it out of +respect to him; and the absurdity is greater, since in a statement +on the wall hard by this fact is made known. None of the northern +rooms are open to the public, but the chief objects of interest +have been transferred to the other wing! + +Leaving the courtyard by the road under the side arches that leads +to the terrace, the tasteful gardening of the surroundings is +noticeable, and as soon as the lower walk is reached, the "Tour de +la Monnaie" lies in full view below. No efforts are made to keep +these ruins, in which Calvin used to preach, from crumbling into +dust. _"O tempora! O mores!"_ + +From the terrace on the other side of the Castle, the remains of +the old fosse may be seen, though houses are now built where the +water used to lie. A broad pathway encircles the edifice, and a +bridge leads from the extreme end over the Rue Marca into the +Castle Park, called also "lower plantation" (basse plante) in +distinction from the "upper plantation" (haute plante), which +surrounds the barracks. Near the road the trees are planted stiffly +in rows, but when another and smaller bridge has been traversed, +the beauty of the Park is manifest. + +[Illustration: IN THE CASTLE PARK.] + +Following the course of the river, and filled with the finest trees +and shrubs, through which the beautiful little nuthatch may +occasionally be seen flying, and among which many other birds sing--it +is indeed, with its long cool walks and pleasant glades, a lovely +promenade. The Bayonne road is the boundary on the opposite side from +the river, and just beyond the limits of the Park a path branches off +river-wards to the Billères Plains, where tennis and golf are played. +In the opposite direction another leads up under the shadow of an old +church, and joins the Route de Billères, which, starting from the Bordeaux +road, passes the Villa Lacroix and other handsome houses, and +descending throws off another branch into the Bayonne road. It then +curves in an opposite direction, and ascends, while at the same +time skirting the grounds of the Château de Billères, to the +favourite Billères woods. From the woods it communicates in a +nearly straight line with the Bordeaux road again, so that in +reality it describes three-quarters of a circle. + +These woods, though sadly disfigured by the demand for fire-wood, +are pleasant to ramble in when the soldiers are not in possession, +and there are drives through them in all directions. At one time +wild duck, pigeons, and woodcock were plentiful there, but that +time has passed, though the gallant French _sportsmen_ may still be +seen trooping through with their dogs after blackbirds and tomtits! + +Pau dearly loves excitement. Three times a week in the winter the +hounds meet in the vicinity, and many are the carriages and many +the fair occupants that congregate to see the start. It is +generally a very gay scene, with no lack of scarlet coats and good +steeds, pretty dresses and sometimes pretty faces too; and though +afterwards they enjoy many a good run, there are but few falls and +fewer broken heads. But it is over the races that Pau gets really +excited. Hunting only attracts the well-to-do, but all who can hire +or borrow even a shandry make a point of not missing the "races." +And these meetings are not few and far between, but about once a +fortnight, for there is no "Jockey Club" at Pau, and consequently +it pleases itself about the fixtures. + +The course, which is some two miles from the town on the Bordeaux +road, is overlooked by an imposing grand stand, which generally +seems well filled, though the betting is not very heavy on the +whole. We drove over one afternoon, and after waiting for three +events which to us were not very exciting, proceeded towards +Lescar. The nearest way would have been by turning to the right by +a white house on the Bordeaux road (not far from the race-course), +but we continued along it instead for some distance, finally +turning off down a narrow lane without any sign of a hedge. After +following this for a length of time, we took the road at right +angles leading between fields covered with gorse, and later, +descending one or two steep hills with trees on either side, we +reascended and entered the ancient town of Lescar, only to dip +under the tottering walls of the ancient castle--a few minutes +later--and mount again under a narrow archway to the church. + +P. Joanne in his excellent guide-book calls it "the ancient +Beneharum, destroyed about the year 841 by the Normans, rebuilt in +980 under the name of Lascurris. In the old chronicles it was +called the 'Ville Septénaire,' because it possessed, it is said, +seven churches, seven fountains, seven mills, seven woods, seven +vineyards, seven gates and seven towers on the ramparts." The +church now restored was formerly a cathedral, and there are some +fine old mosaics (11th century) to be seen under the boarding near +the altar. Jeanne d'Albret and other Béarnais sovereigns are buried +there. + +The Castle is very old, though the square tower dates from the 14th +century only. + +The whole town, so curious and ancient-looking, is well worth a +visit, and forms a contrast in its fallen splendour to Pau's rising +greatness, such as cannot fail to strike any intelligent observer. + +Passing through the town, we took the road to the right homewards, +which joins the Bayonne route, but instead of continuing along the +latter all the way, we branched off into the route de Billères, and +came by the Villa Lacroix and the Hôtel de Londres back to the +pension. + +Another road leads from the Villa Lacroix over a brook, and past +the establishment of the "Petites Soeurs des Pauvres" into the +country, and in fact to Lescar. The brook is known as the Herrère, +and by following the path to the left which runs beside it, the +"Fontaine de Marnières" is reached. The water of this fountain is +considered very pure and strengthening, and many people drink it +daily. + +The band is another attraction at Pau; twice a week in the +afternoon they play in the Place Royale, and twice in the Parc +Beaumont. The music is of a very good order, and excessively +pleasing to listen to from beneath the shade of the trees. The Parc +Beaumont is quite near the Place Royale, the principal entrance +being at the end of the Rue du Lycée, close to the Hôtel Beau +Séjour. + +Balloon ascents were often the chief attraction on Sundays, which +"all the world and his wife" went out to see. There is _a_ casino +in the Park, used occasionally for concerts, but _the_ casino is +behind the Hôtel Gassion, and though it was hardly finished enough +for comfort when we saw it, that defect will soon doubtless be +remedied. + +Polo is generally played in the "Haute Plante" (in front of the +Barracks), and bicycle races take place there also occasionally. It +is only a step from this pleasure-ground to the cemetery, and +though this nearness never affects the joy of the children on the +roundabouts or the young people swinging, yet it is another +practical example that "in the midst of life we are in death." + +The Rue Bayard--on the left of the Haute Plante--leads to the +cemetery gates, and the tombs extend behind the barracks; those of +Protestants being divided from the Roman Catholics' by a carefully +kept walk leading from the right-hand corner of the first or Roman +Catholic portion! + +There is a charm about this last resting-place in spite of its +mournfulness, and the many flowers load the air with a delicious +perfume. The marble statue of a Russian lady in fashionable +costume, over her tomb, is considered a fine piece of sculpture, +and many people go there simply to see it. + +The two principal French churches are those of St. Martin and St. +Jacques, but the latter is in every way the more beautiful. The +"Palais de Justice" stands close to St. Jacques, but facing the +Place Duplaa, where many of the best houses are situated. The Rue +d'Orléans, communicating the Place Duplaa and the Route De Bordeaux, +contains many Good French pensions, which have been previously +mentioned. + +By following the Rue St. Jacques past the church of the same name +and turning down the street which cuts it at right angles, called +the "Rue de la Fontaine", the ancient part of the town can be +reached. It may be here remarked the peculiar characteristics of +Pau, and yet probably seven visitors out of ten fail to notice it. +the other end of "Fountain Street" leads into the Rue de la +Prefecture. this is one of the very busiest streets in Pau, and if +after leaving one of the magnificent new hotels we traverse this +busy street, and then suddenly plunge down the Rue de la Fontaine +to what was once the bed of the castle fosse--where the houses are +small and dirty, and the walls and slates barely hold together, so +wretchedly old and tottering are they--where, instead of bustle and +grandeur, there is only gloom and poverty, and in place of the +enjoyment of the present, there is the longing for a lot a little +less hard in the future; we feel as though we had gone back several +centuries in as many minutes, and have a decided wish to return to +nineteenth-century civilisation again. + +We did not find the rides and drives the least pleasant of our +enjoyments, and there are so many places to visit, that picnics are +plentiful as a matter of course. + +The chief excursion from Pau is to Eaux Bonnes and Eaux Chaudes, +but as there is a slight danger of damp beds there--if you get any +beds at all--early in the year, we postponed this grand trip for +another time. + +Another long drive is to Lourdes and back, but this we did not +take, as we meant to stop a night there later; but one day we made +up a party for Bétharram, which is a long way on the same road, +and, under ordinarily kind auspices, a delightful day's outing. + +If it was less pleasant than it might have been to us, the weather +had a good deal to do with it, and the other causes may develop +themselves in narration. There were ten of us, and we started in a +grand yellow brake with four horses and a surly coachman. The +morning was excessively warm, and some of the party were of such +rotund proportions, that the thin ones were nearly lost sight of, +if they chanced to sit between them, while the warmth approached to +that of a cucumber frame with the sun on it. We attracted a good +deal of attention as we _crawled_ down the Rue Serviez and passed +the entrance to the Pare Beaumont, down the hill to Bizanos; but as +soon as the château that takes its name from the village was +reached, we met with little admiration, except from the good people +jogging along in tumble-down carts and shandries. The peasants +seemed on the whole a good-natured lot, taking a joke with a smile +often approaching a broad grin, and occasionally, but only very +_occasionally_, attempting one in return. The following is an +instance of one of these rare occasions:--We were walking beside +the Herrère stream in the direction of the Fontaine de Marnières; +several women were busy washing clothes at the water's edge, and +above, spread out in all their glory, were three huge umbrellas-- +umbrellas of the size of those used on the Metropolitan 'buses, but +of bright blue cloth on which the presence of clay was painfully +evident. We asked the price without smiling, and the women, +wondering, looked up. We said they must be very valuable, and we +would give as much as _six sous_ for any one of them. At this +moment another woman, who had been listening to the conversation +from a little garden behind, came up and said: "Those umbrellas +belong to me, and they _are_ worth a lot of money; but I will sell +you one cheap _if you promise to send it to the Exhibition!_" + +But to resume. After crossing the railway line beyond Bizanos, and +leaving the pleasant little waterfall on the right, the sun began +to pour down on us very fiercely, and all we could do, wedged in as +we were, was to appear happy and survey the country. + +It was curious to note the method of training the vines up the +various trees by the roadside. The simplicity and efficacy of the +method seemed plain enough, but with memories of the difficulty +experienced in guarding our own fruit even with glass-tipped walls +to defend it, we were forced to the conviction that in the Pyrenees +fruit stealers are unknown. Perhaps, however, the "grapes are +always sour," or sufficiently high up to give the would-be thief +time to think of the penalty, which probably would be "higher" +still. + +The road continues nearly in a direct line through Assat (5 miles), +but when that village was left behind, the mountains seemed to be +considerably nearer, and even the snow summits--a bad sign of rain +--appeared within a fairly easy walk. + +The painful odour of garlic frequently assailed our nostrils +passing through the hamlets, and though it is not quite as bad as +the Japanese root _daikon_, yet to have to talk to a man who has +been eating it, is a positive punishment. We would fain bring about +a reform among the people, getting them to substitute some other +healthily-scented vegetable in place of the objectionable one. To +this end we composed a verse to a very old but popular tune, +styling it + +"THE MARCH OF THE MEN OF GARLIC." + + Men of Garlic--large your numbers, + Long indeed your conscience slumbers, + Can't you change and eat cu-cumbers? + Men of Garlic, say! + They are sweet and tender, + Short and thick or slender. + Then, we know well your breath won't smell + And sickness' pangs engender. + Men of Garlic, stop your scorning, + Change your food and hear our warning, + See the day of Progress dawning, + Give three cheers-- + Hurray! + +Doubtless the fact of the verse being in English will militate +against its efficiency, but before we had time to turn it into +French, we had passed to the right of the quaint old town of Nay, +and were entering Coarraze (10 1/2 miles). As we bore off to the +right across the river, the old castle--where Henry IV. spent a +great part of his childhood like any peasant child--towered above +us, and the scenery around became considerably more picturesque +than any we had passed through that morning. The banks of the river +were more shapely, and the alternation of bushes and meadow, with +the varying lights and shades on the distant peaks and the nearer +slopes, would have seemed more than beautiful, if our wedged +positions and the accompanying warmth had not somewhat evaporated +our admiration. Though the heat remained, the sun had disappeared +behind huge banks of clouds, as we at length entered Bétharram (15 +miles), so, instead of pulling up at the hotel, we drove on to the +beautiful ivy-hung bridge, a great favourite with artists. This +really belongs to the hamlet of Lestelle, which adjoins Bétharram, +and is so picturesque that the villagers ought to be proud of it; +doubtless in the old days, when Notre Dame de Bétharram's shrine +was the cherished pilgrimage--now superseded by the attractions of +N. D. de Lourdes--many thousand "holy" feet crossed and recrossed +this ancient bridge! + +In order to reach the hotel we had to ascend slightly to turn the +vehicle, much to the consternation of one of the party, who, +clasping the back rail with both hands and endeavouring to look +brave, could not withhold a small scream which escaped from the +folds of her veil. + +The dining-room of the hotel smelt decidedly close, so we spread +our sumptuous lunch on tables outside; but Jupiter Pluvius soon +showed his disapproval of our plans, and forced us to go within, +where a fine specimen of a French soldier had done his best to fill +the place with smoke. However, we managed fairly well, in spite of +some sour wine which we tried, under the name of "Jurançon vieux," +for the "good of the house" and the "worse of ourselves." As the +rain passed off ere we had finished, we afterwards repaired to the +"Via Crucis," where there is a small chapel at every turn till the +"Calvary" is reached at the summit. The first chapel is beside the +road, midway between the hotel and the bridge, and the view from +the summit on a fine day is said to be very good; but when only +half-way, the rain came down in such torrents that we were glad to +return to the inn for shelter. For two hours the downpour lasted, +but it cooled the air and rendered the return journey a little more +supportable; and when we arrived at the house, we also arrived at +the decision that never again to a picnic, as far as we were +concerned, should thinness and rotundity go side by side! + +There is no doubt that a landau is the most comfortable vehicle for +a drive of any length, although some very comfortable little T- +carts, with good ponies between the shafts, can be hired too. We +often used the latter for drives to Assat and over the suspension- +bridge--so old and shaky--and home by Gélos and Jurançon; while at +other times, taking the necessaries for afternoon tea, we drove as +far as Nay, crossing the river to enter its ancient square--in +which stand the Townhall and the Maison Carrée, of historical fame +--and then leaving the tanneries and houses behind, sought some +quiet spot down by the water, for sketching and enjoying our tea. + +Rides or drives on the coteaux (hills) in the vicinity are very +pleasant, as the views from certain points are particularly fine. +Of these the most popular is to Perpignaa, two hours being +sufficient for the drive there and back. It is a nice walk for an +average pedestrian, and the road is easy to find. We generally +started in the afternoon, passing across the bridge and through +Jurançon, and where the road forks, bearing along the Gan road to +the right. Then, taking the first turning to the right, leading +between fields, we reached an avenue of trees, with a village +beyond. We then followed the road across the bridge to the left, +and kept bearing in that direction till we reached the foot of the +coteau, where there is only one route, and consequently no chance +of taking any but the right one! We heard of a case of two young +ladies going off in a donkey cart, intending to sketch the view +above Perpignaa, who, when they reached the avenue, turned down to +the right and wandered along the bank of the Gave as far as the +donkey would go, and then sketched a church steeple in despair. But +such a mistake is quite unnecessary; and they would doubtless have +remedied theirs, if they had not found it obligatory at last to +push behind in order to make the donkey move homewards. Although +very hoarse and tired when they arrived, they had voice enough left +to say they "wouldn't go sketching in a donkey cart again!" + +From the foot of the hill the road zigzags, making a fairly easy +gradient to the summit, on which stands a house whose owner kindly +allows visitors to walk about his grounds and participate in the +view. When riding, we followed the road that continues on the right +for several miles, in order to prolong the pleasure produced by the +exercise and the view. + +Another pleasant ride is by way of the coteaux to Gan, and back by +the road, or _vice versá_; but we always preferred the former, as +the horses had the hill work while fresh, and then the level home. +In the first instance we found this track by accident. We had +passed through Jurançon, and at the spot where the road forks +debated which to take, finally deciding on the left one, but this +we only followed for a few yards, taking again the first turning to +the right, which brought us over the railway line direct to the +hills. Winding up through the trees, we passed a tricyclist pushing +his machine before him, who informed us that we were on the way to +Gan. Of this, after we had ridden up and down, wound round +hillsides and passed through pleasant dingles, we were at length +assured by descending into that village, from which we got safely +home in spite of a "bolting" attempt on the part of one of the +"fiery" steeds. + +To thoroughly enjoy the longer drive to Piétat it is better to make +a picnic of it. We started about ten one lovely morning, turning to +the left beyond Jurançon, crossing the line to Oloron--on the main +road--and later on, bearing more round in the same direction, and +beginning to ascend. As on the hills to Gan, we were perpetually +mounting only to descend a great part of the distance again, but +ever and anon catching glimpses of the valley in which Assat and +Nay lay, and of Pau itself, besides the lovely snow hills +stretching as far as eye could reach. When Piétat was arrived at, +there was but little to interest us in what we saw there of a half- +finished church and two cottages; but the view on all sides after +we had walked along the grassy plateau was very lovely, especially +as the lights and shades were everywhere so perfect. Having +selected a cosy spot and spread the luncheon, we were besieged by +children anxious to sell us flowers and apples, and to share +whatever we would give them. They were hard to get rid of even with +promises of something when we had finished, and when at last they +did go, an elderly female took their place with most generous +offers of unlocking the church for us. There was an old sweet-toned +bell in front of the western door, and a half-finished sculpture of +the "Descent from the Cross" over it. The interior of the edifice +was sufficiently roofed for a portion to be utilised for prayer, +and the high altar and two lateral ones were already erected. + +After culling a quantity of the beautiful feather moss from the +hedgerows, we re-entered the carriage, and descended the hill into +the Gave valley, crossing the suspension-bridge by Assat, and +through the village into the main road, and home by Bizanos. It was +the time of the carnival, and on the following day Bizanos--which +has an evil repute for bad egg-throwing on festive occasions--was +to be the scene of the mumming. Luckily they did not attempt to +practise on us, though as we drove up through the town we met bands +of gaily-dressed individuals parading the streets. + +These bands consisted of about thirty, mostly men decked in a +preponderance of red, white, and blue, and usually accompanied by a +tableau arrangement on a cart. Every twenty yards they stopped, +went through a series of antics, supposed to be country dances, to +the tune of the cornet and a fiddle, and then brought round the +hat, frequently embracing any woman who objected to give her sous. + +A carnival such as this combines a holiday with money-making to the +mummers, and as long as they can get money in this fashion, they +certainly cannot be blamed for taking their amusement in such a +highly practical manner. + +There are several private coaches at Pau, which turn out in grand +style on race days; and balls, concerts, and kettledrums abound, +with private theatricals occasionally. We attempted to get up "Poor +Pillicoddy," but were very unlucky about it. Firstly, when in full +rehearsal, our Mrs. O'Scuttle became unwell, and we had to look for +another, and when we had found her and were getting into shape +again, her nautical husband put the whole ship on the rocks and +wrecked our hopes by losing his voice. + +However, our departure was very nigh, and packing is an excellent +cure for disappointment, though we were interrupted in that one +morning with a request to write "something" in the visitors' book. +With the memories of our pleasant stay upon us, we do not think we +can err in reproducing one contribution, which was styled + +"IDYLLIC COLBERT." + +(_With apologies to_ Mr. W. S. GILBERT.) + + If you're anxious for to dwell in a very fine hotel + By the mountain's wide expanse, + You at once had best repair to that house so good though + _chère_ + Called the "Grand Hôtel de France." + Or if for food your craze is, you still can give your praises + To the _chef_ of its cuisine_. + Your taste you need not fetter, for 'tis said in Pau, no better + Has ever yet been seen. + But this I have to say, you will not like your stay + As much as if at Pension Colbert you the time had spent, + And such a time, I'm very sure, you never would repent. + + If I'm eloquent in praise of those most peculiar days + Which now have passed away, + 'Tis to tell you, as a man, what awful risks I ran + Lest my heart should chance to stray. + I never would pooh-pooh! 'tis cruel so to do, + Though often weak and ill, + For they my plaints would stop, with a juicy mutton-chop, + Or a mild and savoury pill! + And this I have to say, you're bound to like your stay, + And never in your life I'm very sure will you repent + The time in Pension Colbert's walls and well-trimmed + garden spent. + + And if a tantalizing passion of a gay lawn tennis fashion + Should fire your love of sport, + On the neat and well-kept lawn, a net that's _never_ torn + Hangs quiv'ring o'er the court. + Or if your voice you'd raise in sweet or high-tun'd lays, + You'll find a piano there, + And _birdies_ too will sing, like mortals--that's a thing + You'll never hear elsewhere-- + And then you're bound to say that you have liked your stay, + And never in your life I'm very sure will you repent + The time in Pension Colbert's walls and well-trimm'd + garden spent. + + If for hunting you've a liking, you can don a costume striking, + And proceed to chase the fox. + Or if you're fond of driving, _perhaps_ by some contriving + You may mount a coach's box. + If picnics are your pleasure, you can go to them at leisure, + And lunch on sumptuous fare, + And though maybe, perforce, you'll get lamb without mint + sauce. + They never starve you there. + And always you will say, that you've enjoyed your stay, + And never in your life I'm very sure will you repent + The time in Pension Colbert's walls and well-trimm'd + garden spent. + +As Mrs. and Miss Blunt and Mr. Sydney had definitely decided to +spend the time at Biarritz while I stayed at Bigorre, I turned my +attention to discovering if any other acquaintances were proceeding +in the same direction as myself. In this I was successful, and in +company with Mr. H---- and his two daughters, and Mrs. Willesden +and Miss Leonards, bade "au revoir" to Pau, with the prospect of a +long spell of beautiful scenery if the clerk of the weather could +only be controlled, by longings and hopes. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +BAGNÈRES DE BIGORRE. + +Backward Spring--Hôtel Beau Séjour--Effect of the war of '70 on the +English Colony--The "Coustous"--The Church of St. Vincent-- +Géruzet's Marble Works--Donkeys--Up the Monné--Bains de Santé-- +Bains de Grand Pré--Salut Avenue and Baths--"Ai-ue, Ai-ue"-- +Luncheon--Daffodils--The Summit and the View--The "Castle-Mouly"-- +The Tapêre--Mde. Cottin--Mont Bédat--Gentians--The Croix de Manse-- +"The Lady's Farewell to her Asinine Steed"--Market-day--The Old +Iron and Shoe Dealers--Sunday--A Cat Fight--The English Church--To +the Col d'Aspin--"The Abbé's Song"--Baudéan--Campan, its People and +Church--Wayside Chapels--Ste. Marie--The route to Gripp, &c.-- +Payole--The Pine Forest--The Col d'Aspin--The View from the Monné +Rouge--"The Plaint of the Weather-beaten Pine"--The Menu at Payole +--Hurrah for the Milk!--Departures--Divine Music--Asté--Gabrielle +d'Estrelle--The Ivied Ruins--The Church--Pitton de Tournefort-- +Gerde--The Pigeon Traps--The Cattle Market--The Jacobin Tower-- +Theatre--Grand Etablissement des Thermes--Hospice Civil--Eglise des +Carmes--Mount Olivet--Madame Cheval, her Cakes and Tea--Bigorre in +Tears. + + +We had a bright day for our journey to Bigorre, and the country +looked pretty, though very backward for April, but this was owing +to the late frosts, which had been felt everywhere. Bigorre itself +was no exception, and instead of all the charms of spring ready to +welcome us, the leaves were only just taking courage to unfurl. Our +first impressions were consequently anything but favourable, though +our comfortable quarters in the Hôtel Beau Séjour compensated us to +a certain degree. To the French and Spaniards, Bigorre is only a +summer resort, but as it is considered to possess a very mild +climate, many English reside there all the year round. In fact, +before the war of 1870 there was quite an English colony there, but +the chance of a Prussian advance dispersed it, and many were the +hardships endured by some of those who had stayed to the last +moment, in their endeavours to reach the coast. + +Our first two days were more or less wet, and by reports of heavy +snowstorms around us, we were unanimously of opinion that we had +come too early. However, with a little sun the place soon began to +look more cheerful, and a few days' fine weather wrought quite a +change. + +The hotel looks down on the Place Lafayette and the commencement of +the avenue known as the "Coustous." This name puzzled us! We tried +to find its derivation in French, without success, and Greek and +German were no better. Latin seemed to solve the difficulty with +the word "Custos," since it is said that the ancient guardians of +the town formerly marched up and down beneath these fine old trees; +so we decided to hunt no further but to translate "Coustous" into +the "Guards' Walk." Having settled that knotty point, we took a +stroll in the avenue, and later, paid a visit to the parish church +of St. Vincent which is close by. It is particularly chaste inside, +some portions dating from the 14th century, but the 15th and 16th +have each had a share in the construction. Some of the altars are +made of fine Pyrenean marble, and the Empress Eugenie is said to +have given the wooden image of the Virgin on the pedestal. + +As the various marbles obtained in the vicinity are exceedingly +interesting, and in many cases very beautiful, a very pleasant +half-hour can be spent at one of the many marble works which the +town possesses. Fired with this idea ourselves, one gloomy day +after lunch we sallied from the hotel, down the road to the left of +the church, through the public gardens, and--attracted by the +marble pillar--down the lane to the right of it, which at length +brought us to the works of Monsieur Géruzet. The huge blocks of the +rough stone were first inspected, then we saw the various processes +of cutting, ornamenting and polishing, and finally were ushered +into the showroom, where all kinds of articles from a sleeve-stud +to a sideboard were on sale. The cigar-trays and letterweights were +most reasonable, but it is not necessary to buy at all--and +gratuities are not supposed to be permitted. + +There were some fine turn-outs in the donkey line which deserve +notice, the peculiarity of these animals here being, to go where +they are wanted, and even to trot about it. Looking out of the +window one morning, we were immediately attracted by the tiniest of +donkeys galloping across the "place" with two big men behind it; +and later on in the day, a neat specimen of the same tribe passed +down the "Coustous," dragging a small dogcart, almost completely +filled by the form of a French female, two or three times as large +as her donkey. + +But like other things, the "genus asininus" is very variable, +almost as much so as the barometer, and those "on hire" for riding +purposes were quite as obstinate as their relations in other +countries; at least so the ladies declared who tried them, and they +ought to know. Their bitter experience was gained in a trip up the +Monné, the highest mountain in the immediate vicinity, being 2308 +feet above Bigorre, or 4128 above the sea. Our party was seven in +all, supplemented by a broken-winded and coughing horse (called +Towser; French, _Tousseux_), two very obstinate donkeys, and a +particularly polite donkey boy. Add to these, three luncheon- +baskets and various sticks, umbrellas, and parasols, and the +cavalcade is complete. We left the hotel and passed up the Coustous +in rather mixed order, which improved as we turned into the Rue +d'Alsace, and leaving the Great Bathing Establishment [Footnote: +Grand Etablissement de Thermes.] and French Protestant Church on +the right, and the Baths of Santé and Grand Pré on the left, +entered the "Salut" avenue, which in due time brought us to the +baths of the same name. The ascent, which by the road is most +circuitous and easy, commences from thence. But though easy, the +donkeys did not attempt to conceal their dislike for the work at a +very early stage, and when the blasting in the quarries was hushed, +"the voice of the charmer" (i.e. donkey boy) might have been heard, +painfully resembling the sounds made by the traveller with his head +over the vessel's side, urging them on, "Ai-ue--Ai-ue." As we +rounded the last of the minor peaks, "the keen demands of appetite" +were not to be resisted; so on a nice green plateau, with the +object of our desires in full view, we discussed the luncheon. +Shawls were spread, plates handed round, bottles gurglingly +uncorked, and chicken and "pâté de foie gras" distributed until +everyone was steadily at work. The mountain air seemed to affect +the "vin ordinaire"; everyone averred it was as good as "Margaux," +while the chicken was voted delicious, and the pâté superb. + +This important business over, a start was again made, and though +the donkeys were still obstinate, we managed to make progress. +Daffodils were growing in profusion as we neared the summit, making +the hill crest seem crowned with gold. At last, after one or two +nasty narrow bits of path, barely affording sufficient footing for +the animals, we gained the top, anxious to enjoy the view. +Unhappily, the tips of the highest peaks were hidden in the clouds, +but the general view was excellent, so we endeavoured to be +content. With our backs to Bigorre, we had the Pic du Midi (9440 +ft.) and the Montaigu (7681 ft.) right before us, with the small +Val de Serris and the finer Val de Lesponne beneath. More to the +left, the continuation of the Campan Valley leading to Luchon, in +which, as far as Ste. Marie, the route is visible. On the extreme +left lay the four villages of Gerde, Asté, Baudéan and Campan, with +the Pêne de l'Heris (5226 ft.) and the Ordincède rearing above +them. Looking in the direction of Bigorre, we could see on our +right the trees fringing the hills above Gerde, and known as the +Palomières; and slightly to the left Lourdes and its lake, with the +entrance to the Argelès valley further round in the same direction +and close to the wooded hill known as the Castel Mouly (3742 ft.). +The Tapêre (a small stream) flows from this last-named hill into a +narrow glen, on the left side of which Madame Cottin wrote the +"Exiles of Siberia." The hill above, known as "Mont Bédat," and +surmounted with a statue of the Virgin, is a favourite walk from +the town, the ascent for a moderate walker taking about forty-five +minutes. + +After twenty minutes to enjoy this panorama we began the descent on +the Castel-Mouly side, and were very soon forced to make short and +sometimes slippery cuts, to avoid the banks of snow lying in the +path. We easily managed to strike the proper path again, however, +and soon found ourselves at our "luncheon plateau." We now bore +along to the left, finding several large gentians, and gradually, +by dint of short cuts, we reached the Croix de Manse--a plateau +where four roads meet. Taking the one leading from the Bédat, we +were soon deposited at the hotel in safety. + +The ladies were inexpressibly glad to give up their donkeys, and +Miss Leonards considered her experiences so bitter as to wish them +to be handed down to posterity under the title of + +"THE LADY'S FAREWELL TO HER ASININE STEED." + + My donkey steed! my donkey steed! that standest slyly by, + With thy ill-combed mane and patchy neck--thy brown and + cunning eye, + I will not mount the Monné's height, or tread the gentle + mead + Upon thy back again: oh slow and wretched donkey steed! + + The sun may rise, the sun may set, but ne'er again on thee, + Will I repeat the sorry ride from which at length I'm free; + I'd sooner walk ten thousand times, though walking would + be vain, + Than ever mount, my donkey steed, upon thy back again. + + Perchance in _nightmare's_ fitful dreams thou'lt amble into + sight, + Perchance once more thy cunning eye will turn on me its + light. + Again I'll raise my parasol--_in vain_--to make thee speed, + A parasol is nought to thee, my wretched donkey steed. + + 'Twas only when at my request some kindly hand would + chide, + Or sharply thrust a pointed stick against thy shaggy side, + That the slow blood that in thee runs would quicken once + again, + For though my parasol I broke, my efforts _still_ were vain. + + Did I ill use thee? Surely not! such things could never be! + Although thou wentest slowest when I fain would haste to + tea. + Creeping at snail's pace only--while I couldn't make thee + learn + That donkeys' legs were never made to stop at ev'ry turn. + + At ev'ry turn!--such weary work--I knew not what to do: + Oh nevermore!--no, nevermore!--would I that ride renew. + How very wide thy jaws were kept--how far thrown back + thine ears, + As though to make me think thee ill and fill my soul with + fears. + Safe and unmounted will I roam with stately step alone, + No more to feel, on thee, such pains and aches in ev'ry bone: + And if I rest beside a well, perchance I'll pause and think, + How even if I'd brought thee there, I couldn't make thee + drink. + + I couldn't even make thee move! Away, the ride is o'er! + Away! for I shall rue the day on which I see thee more! + They said thou wert so meek and good, and I'm not over + strong, + I took their _kind_ advice, but oh! their _kind_ advice was + _wrong._ + + Who said I'd gladly give thee up? Who said that thou + were old? + 'Tis true! 'tis true! my donkey steed! and I alas was _sold._ + With joy I see thy form depart--that form which ne'er again + Shall bear me up the mountain-side and fill my soul with + pain. + +After such a potent warning posterity will doubtless avoid "donkey +steeds" altogether. + +Saturday is the great market-day of the week, and not only then is +the "Place de Strasbourg," at the end of the "Rue du Centre," well +crowded, but even--as happens on no other day--the Place Lafayette, +in front of the hotel, and the top of the Coustous as well. The +first-named is the fruit, flower, and vegetable market; the second, +the grain and potato; and the third, the iron and old shoe market. +The amount and variety of old iron and cast-off shoes exposed for +sale is astonishing. And if the vendors were given to crying their +wares they might indulge in something like the following--of course +translated:-- + + "Now who's for an 'upper,' a 'heel,' or a 'sole'? + This way for some fine rusty chain! + The sum of ten halfpence will purchase the whole, + And surely you cannot complain! + + "Just glance at this slipper, whose fellow is lost; + Here's a boot that was only worn thrice; + A hammer, your honour, at half what it cost; + I'm sure that's a reasonable price." + +The curious characters loafing, begging, buying and selling, quite +defy description, though the resemblance of many to the ape tribe +was conspicuous. One ancient individual, presiding over an +"umbrella hospital," presented an interesting spectacle surrounded +by _adult_ shoe-blacks whose trade did not appear to be too +lucrative. + +Sunday is usually a very quiet day out of the season, but on our +first Sunday morning the Place de Strasbourg was the scene of a +real cat-fight. The combatants quite tabooed spitting and +scratching, and went to work with their teeth. After a few squeaks +and a great deal of rolling in the dust, a magnanimous dog appeared +on the scene, and after separating them, pursued the victor down +the street. The rest of the day, as usual, passed peacefully, and +the pleasant services in the pretty little English Church were much +enjoyed. It is situated near Dussert and Labal's marble works, just +off the Rue des Pyrenees, leading to Campan, about a hundred yards +beyond the Coustous, and is reached by crossing a small wooden +bridge. + +Monday broke very fine, and as the market people had notified that +the Col d'Aspin was now open, we made up a party of ten, just +filling two landaus, for this fifteen-mile drive. We did not start +till eleven, and by that time the clouds had commenced to show +themselves, but hoping for better things, we went ahead. Following +the Campan road, we soon left Gerde and the Palomières above it, in +the distance, and in a few moments the village of Asté as well. A +little further on we met a barouche, lolling back in which sat a +priest. His hands were clasped o'er his breast, his spectacled eyes +were fixed upwards, and judging by the expression of his mouth and +the movement of his lips, he was endeavouring to put some pleasant, +self-contented thoughts into words. We took the liberty of guessing +what he was saying, and set it down as + +"THE ABBÉ'S SONG." + + Oh! I am an Abbé, an Abbé am I, + And I'm fond of my dinner and wine. + Some say I'm a sinner, but that I deny, + And I never am heard to repine. + 'Tis said what a pity I can't have a wife, + But I'm saved from the _chance_ of all naggings and strife, + While in my barouche I can ride where I will, + Feeling life not half bad, though the world may be ill. + + I always wear glasses, but that's to look sage, + And not 'cause my eyesight is dim, + For when sweet maids I view of a loveable age, + I contrive to look over the rim. + And when I'm alone with the glass at my lips, + I am ready to swear, as I pause 'twixt the sips, + That as long as the world does not hamper my will, + I think I can manage to live in it still. + +A short distance before reaching Baudéan a road strikes to the +right up the Vallon de Serris, and a short distance beyond, +another, in the same direction, strikes up the Vallée de Lesponne, +_en route_ for the Lac Bleu (6457 ft.) and the Montaigu (7681 ft.). +When Baudéan and its quaint old church were left in our rear, and +we were nearing Campan, we witnessed a fierce struggle between a +young bull-calf and a native. The calf objected very strongly to +the landaus, and wished to betake itself to the adjacent country to +avoid them. To this the native very naturally objected in turn, and +a struggle was the result, in which the calf was worsted and +reduced to order. + +Campan is a curious old town, with a quaint marketplace, whose roof +rests on well-worn stone pillars. Turning a corner, we came on a +somewhat mixed collection of men, women, oxen, and logs of wood. +The French flag was fixed against a tree, and painted on a board +underneath it were the familiar words, "débit de tabac," with an +arrow or two pointing round the corner, but no tobacco shop was in +sight. + +The peasants thronged the windows as we drove down the street, but +the greater number were weird and decrepit females, with faces like +the bark of an ancient oak-tree. + +The old church, which stands near the market-place is well worth a +visit. Passing under an archway on the right side of the road, we +entered a court-yard, in which stands a marble statue erected in +honour of the late curé, and on the right of this is the entrance +into the church. + +After leaving Campan the road ascends slightly through several +small hamlets, each possessing a proportionately small chapel at +the wayside, till Ste. Marie (2965 ft.) is reached. Here the road +bifurcates, the branch to the right leading to Gripp, Tramesaïgues, +the Col du Tourmalet, and Barèges; the branch to the left, along +which we continued, to the Col d'Aspin, Arreau, Bordères, Col de +Peyresourde (5070 ft.), and Luchon (2065 ft.). From Ste. Marie the +grandeur of the scenery increases. Besides the Montaigu and the Pic +du Midi on the right, on the left are the Pêne de l'Heris (5226 +ft.) and the Crête d'Ordincède (5358 ft. about), with their wooded +crests uplifted above the range of lower hills, dotted with the +huts of the shepherds. Still ascending slightly, we passed Payole +(3615 ft.), where a head thrust out of the window of the Hôtel de +la Poste showed us it was at any rate occupied, and as we drove +past at a good pace, visions of a pleasant tea rose before us. + +[Illustration: THE PINE FOREST NEAR THE COL D'ASPIN.] + +We were soon mounting the zigzags through the splendid pine woods, +and enjoyed the delicious glimpses down the deep moss-grown glades, +with the scent of the rising sap in our nostrils. The glimpses on +the mountains up and down the road were very felicitous also. On +emerging from the forest the road was rather narrow for the +carriage for several yards, the snow being two to three feet deep +on either side, but as soon as this was passed, another three- +quarter mile of open driving brought us to the Col d'Aspin (4920 +ft.). The view from this spot is very fine, but to really enjoy the +scenery to the fullest extent, we mounted the crest on the left, +called the Monné Rouge (5759 ft.), and were well rewarded. +Although, as too often happens, the highest peaks were in the mist, +we could see the whole extent of the valleys, and the tops of the +lower mountains. The range of sight is magnificent; the Maladetta +(10,866 ft.) only just visible to the east, the huge Posets (11,047 +ft.) standing out frowningly to the south-south-east, as well as +the Pez (10,403 ft.) and the Clarabide (10,254 ft. about), and many +others. While not only the valley of Séoube, just passed through, +and the valley of Aure, in which Arreau lies, are visible, but to +the northwest even the plain of the Garonne as well. As the clouds +were gradually obscuring the scene, we made our way at a smart pace +through the pines back towards the inn at Payole. One weather- +beaten old fir, hung with lichen, devoid of all its former garb of +green, seemed to appeal to us for pity; we noticed it both when +ascending and descending, and its misery at dying when all the +trees around were growing anew, we have set down as + +"THE PLAINT OF THE WEATHER-BEATEN PINE." + + Behold I stand by the Aspin road, an old and worn-out Pine, + The years I cannot recollect that make this life of mine: + The snows have fallen o'er my crest, the winds have whistled + high, + For tens of years the winter's frost I managed to defy; + But now the fiat has gone forth, the flame of life is dead, + And nevermore I'll feel the storms that beat about my head. + + I've watch'd the carriage travellers pass so gaily on their + way, + I've heard the capercailzie's note at early dawning grey; + But now, alas! my doom is sealed, I have not long to wait, + For when the axe has laid me low the fire will be my fate. + Farewell to sun, farewell to storm, to birds and travellers all, + --Oh sad to think that one so great should have so great a + fall! + +As some of the party had gone on earlier, we found the table spread +when we reached the Inn de la Poste; and after a warm at the +kitchen fire proceeded to discuss the repast, of which the +following is the _menu_:-- + +MENU. + + * * * * * + +SOUP. + +Tea._ + +FISH. + +Cold Minnows. + +ROASTS. + +Remains of Cold Chicken. Remains of Paté de Foie Gras. + +COLD. + +Household _Bread_--very sour. + +MADE DISH. + +_Butter._ + +SWEETS. + +Sponge Biscuits. + +DESSERT. + +Apples and Oranges. + +WINES AND LIQUEURS. + +Vin Ordinaire, Water with very little Whisky, Kirschwasser. + +We were unable to procure any addition to our meal from the +innkeeper, except sour bread and sugar. Our tea had to be drank +without milk, as the cow had gone for a stroll up the mountain and +was out of reach of the post-office. Having suggested to our host +that a telegram might be of use, he disappeared grinning, and in +about ten minutes the servant entered with a bottle containing the +precious liquid. The shout of joy that rose to the rafters rather +startled the quiet female, but it was spontaneous, not to be +suppressed, and told of a happy finish to our not over sumptuous +tea. + +The drive from thence home was decidedly chilly, but nothing +exciting happened, though occasional glimpses of the snow peaks +were enjoyed, and many fine specimens of the genus bovus, dragging +carts laden with trees (or all that remained of them), were passed +by the way. + +The entire excursion occupied six hours and a half. + +A few days afterwards our sociable circle at the hotel was much +reduced, and among others the Clipper family departed. We missed +Mr. Clipper greatly, for though bearing strong evidence to Darwin's +theory about the face, he was a chatty companion and capital +"raconteur," while his facility for remembering names, even of +places visited in his youngest days, was really remarkable. + +Nor could we easily spare the four sylph-like Misses Clipper, for +with them vanished all hopes of delicious music in the evening. Ah, +that was music! The way they played together the "Taking of Tel-el- +Kebir" took us by storm. The silent march through the dead of +night, the charge, the cheers, the uncertain rifle fire, and then +the thunder of the cannon was so effective, that the landlord rose +in haste from his dinner, and anxiously inquired if the pier-glass +had fallen through the piano; reassured, he went back to his meal, +but whether the "taking of the redoubt," or the "pursuit of the +fugitives," or even the capital imitation of the bagpipes--which +followed in due course--interfered with his digestion (it might +have been a regard for his piano), we never learnt, but his face +showed unmistakable signs of annoyance for the rest of the evening. + +The next morning--which was Saturday--Miss Leonards, Mrs. +Willesden, and myself took a walk to the villages of Asté and +Gerde. They lie on the opposite side of the river Adour, and are +within an easy walk. The market people were coming in a continuous +stream along the Campan road, some in long carts crowded sardine- +like, some in traps, some on donkeys, but the majority on foot. We +stopped two of the most crowded carts and asked them to make room +for us. The inmates of the former took it as a joke and drove off +chuckling; but those in the second took the matter-of-fact view and +began squeezing about, till, having a space of about four inches by +three, one man said he thought they could manage; however, not +wishing to "sit familiar," we thanked him, but declined to trouble +him any further. + +The first bridge over the river, built of stone, leads to Gerde and +Asté, but we preferred to take the longer route, which continues +along the Campan road, till, after passing several smaller wooden +bridges, it turns to the left between two houses over an iron +bridge, and strikes straight into Asté. Before entering the town we +glanced over in the direction of Campan, and caught a fine glimpse +of the Houn Blanquo (6411 ft.), and the Pic du Midi, with a bit of +the Montaigu. Asté is interesting, formerly a fief of the Grammont +family; it has been associated with not a few celebrated +characters, and though that does not enhance the value of the +surrounding property (since the Grammont estate is now in the +market), yet of course it renders the village more worthy of a +visit. + +The picturesque and ivy-covered ruin is all that remains of the +feudal castle where Gabrielle d'Estrelle [Footnote: So the oldest +inhabitant said!] lived and loved, and whither the renowned Henry +IV. (the object of that love) came over from his castle at Pau on +frequent visits. + +The church, with its Campan marble porch, is celebrated for the +image of the Virgin which it contains, and which is greatly +reverenced in the neighbourhood. + +Asté was honoured with a long visit from Pitton de Tournefort, a +celebrated French naturalist, and the fact is commemorated by an +engraved tablet affixed to the house in which he passed his nights. + +The tablet is on the left-hand side of the main street (going +towards Gerde), and the inscription--which is in verse--runs as +follows:-- + +"Pitton de Tournefort dans cet humble réduit, +De ses fatigues de jour se reposait la nuit. +Lorsqu' explorant nos monts qu'on ignorait encore, +Ce grand homme tressait la couronne de flore." + +MDCCCXXXII. M.B. + +Which might be translated-- + +"Pitton de Tournefort when tired for the day, +In this hole made his bed, on a shakedown of hay. +Our hills, long despised, he was pleased to explore, +And we thank him for lib'rally paying the score!" + +1832. + +Taking the path leading to the right, we managed by dint of a +little wading to reach Gerde, a village possessing little internal +interest besides the neat church, but otherwise known to fame from +the "palomières," or pigeon-traps, worked between the trees which +fringe the hills above it. During the autumn, when the pigeons are +migrating, huge nets are spread between the trees, and on the approach +of a flock, men, perched in a lofty "crow's nest," throw out a large +wooden imitation of a hawk, at the sight of which the pigeons dip in +their flight and rush into the nets, which--worked on the pulley +system--immediately secure them. There are three species taken in the +traps: the wood pigeon, the ringed wood pigeon, and the wild dove. + +Leaving Gerde by the principal thoroughfare, we came back to +Bagnères by the Toulouse road, passing the Cattle Market--held in a +triangular space shaded with trees--on the left; and the Géruzet +Marble Works, and later the Parish Church, on the right. + +[Illustration: PALOMIÈRES DE GERDE.] + +With the exception of the baths or Thermes, we did not find many +places of interest in the town. The old Jacobin tower, surmounted +by a clock, in the Rue de l'Horloge, is all that remains of a +convent built in the 15th century, but is in a good state of +preservation. The theatre is part of what was formerly the "Chapel +of St. John," used by the Templars. The porch over the doorway was +erected in the 13th century, and is of the Transition style, +utterly incongruous to the use now made of it; but this kind of +sacrilege is unhappily now becoming of common occurrence! Leaving +the theatre, in a short space we were in the "Place des Thermes," +where the New Casino is being built among the shrubs on the right. +The "Grand Etablissement," which occupies the centre of the +"Place," contains seven different springs, and there is another in +the circular building outside, the latter being only used for +drinking purposes. On the first floor of the building are the +library (to the left), the geological room (in the centre), and the +picture gallery (to the right). The corridors leading to the first +and last are panelled with good specimens of the Pyrenean marbles, +and in the same room with the pictures is a supposed model of a +section of the Pyrenees--anybody gaining any information from it +deserves a prize. + +To the left of this establishment stands the "Hospice Civil," a +fine building in grey stone. + +The Carmelite Church, on the left of the road leading to Mount +Olivet, where several pleasant villas are situated, is now closed, +the "order" having been dispersed two years ago; so nothing is to +be seen there of interest except the sculpture representing the +"miracle of the loaves" over the door. + +One institution must not be forgotten, viz, the afternoon tea or +coffee at Madame Cheval's. This good lady presides over a +confectioner's shop opposite the end of the Hôtel (Beau Séjour), in +the Rue du Centre. Her cakes and coffee are good, and, thanks to +our enlightened instructions, anyone taking some tea to her can +have it properly made, and be provided with the necessary adjuncts +for enjoying it; cream even being attainable if ordered the +previous day. We spent many a pleasant half-hour there, and can +well recommend others to follow our example. + +Towards the end of the month Mr. H---- and his daughters moved on +to Luchon, as their time was limited; and the last week saw the +departure of Mrs. Willesden and Miss Leonards for England, whereat +Bigorre was as tearful and miserable as a steady downpour could +make it. I had serious thoughts of moving on to Luchon for two or +three days myself, and a driver who had brought two men thence over +the Col d'Aspin, offered to take me back for twenty francs, but +learning next day that there were five feet of snow on the Col, and +that Luchon was wretchedly cold, I decided to wait till later on, a +decision in no way regretted. + +Although during the latter part of our stay the weather was +agreeable, and the influence of spring manifest, I was not sorry +when the day for moving forward arrived, and though Madame Cheval, +when I broke the news to her over my solitary cup of coffee, looked +as concerned as she could, and murmured something to the effect +that "all her customers were going away," yet with the assurance +that some day soon a party of us would pay her a visit, she managed +to smile again! + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +LOURDES. + +The Journey to Tarbes--The Buffet and the Nigger--Lourdes Station +in the Wet--Importunate "Cochers"--Hôtel des Pyrénées--"Red tape" +and Porters--Lourdes in Sunshine--Sightseeing--The "Rue de la +Grotte"--"The Cry of the Lourdes Shopkeepers"--Candle-sellers--The +Grotto--Abject Reverence--The Church--St. Bernard--Interior of +Church--The Panorama--Admirable Effect--Rue du Fort--The Castle-- +The View from the Tower--Pie de Mars, or Ringed Ousels. + + +The railway run from Bigorre to Lourdes is by no means a long one, +the actual distance being only twenty-six and a quarter miles, and +actual time in the train about one and a half hours, but the break +at Tarbes considerably prolongs it. + +The early morning had been wet, and showers continued till the +afternoon, but the sun condescended to come out as the train wound +slowly out of the station, and the lights and shades up the valley +and hillsides were delightful. Having the anticipatory pleasure of +meeting Mrs. and Miss Blunt and Mr. Sydney again at Lourdes; and a +lovely view of the beauties of spring when I looked out of the +window, the time did not take long to pass. One particularly pretty +bit of meadow, trees, and stream led to the building of an airy +castle, which the sudden appearance of the spires and roofs of +Tarbes--suggesting the return to bustle and the haunts of men--soon +banished, and the arrival in the station and the necessary change +eradicated completely. + +Thirty-five minutes to wait. Too little to see the town, too much +for twiddling one's thumbs. Then what? Glorious inspiration! The +Buffet! Capital; and into the Buffet I accordingly went. Seated at +a table, a nigger, slightly white about the finger tips, but +otherwise quite genuine--no Moore and Burgess menial--appeared to +do my bidding. "What would Monsieur take? Café?"--"Oui." "Café noir +ou café au lait?" I decided on taking the coffee with milk, adding +that anything in the biscuit line would not be amiss, and away he +went grinning. He soon returned with cakes and coffee, and by dint +of taking my time I had barely finished when it was time to start. + +Again I managed to secure a carriage to myself, but this time it +proved a very badly coupled one which jolted considerably. Lourdes +was reached in a wretched drizzle, and the benefit conferred on +passengers by having the station _quite_ free from any covering +whatever, was _apparent_ to all. A sudden activity on the part of +the "cochers" to entrap me to their respective (but by no means +necessarily respectable) hotels, as I emerged from the station-- +which proved useless--and I was jolting onward to the Hôtel des +Pyrénées. When arrived, inspected rooms, ordered fires and dinner, +and whiled away an hour till it was time to repair again to the +station, to meet Mrs. and Miss Blunt and Mr. Sydney, "Red tape"-ism +dominant there, as it is everywhere in France. In fact, "red tape" +is the French official's refuge. Whenever a system is weak or +underhand, they seek protection behind a maze of stupidity and +fuss. I wanted to see the station-master, to obtain permission to +perambulate the platform till the arrival of the train. No porter +would bestir himself to find this great official, but whichever way +I turned one was always ready with his "Où allez-vous, Monsieur?" +to which the only sensible reply would have been "Pas au ----, comme +vous," but silence and an utter indifference were better still, and +armed with these I ran the gauntlet of the pests, and finding the +"Chef de Gare" in his "bureau," at once received the desired +permission. There was not much time for perambulation, as the train +soon steamed in, though without Mr. Sydney, who was detained for a +day or two longer, and once more, but now a triangular party, we +jolted back to the hotel. The rest of the evening was passed with +dinner, and an endeavour to get warm; the rain and wind still +enjoying themselves without. + +[Illustration] + +However, with the morn all these miseries vanished, and the sun +shone from a blue sky flecked with a few films of snow. Lourdes +looked very charming under such auspices, and Miss Blunt availed +herself of the balmy air of the morning to wander round the stables +and garden with a speckled pointer and a Pyrenean puppy, between +which and the mountains her attention was divided, though the last +named had certainly the least of it. + +Then out we sallied to see the sights, which are more of quality +than quantity. Turning to the right from the hotel door, through +the Place de Marcadal, where the fountain was playing in delightful +imitation of the previous night's rain, we gained the commencement +of the Rue de la Grotte (which bears sharply to the left by the +Hôtel de Paris), and followed its muddy ways with more or less +danger owing to absence of footpath, and presence of numerous +carriages. However, having passed the Hôtel d'Angleterre and the +end of Rue du Fort (leading to the ancient castle), footpaths came +into view, but the joy of the discovery was much minimized at the +sight of the shops and shopkeepers, as the latter gave us no peace. +It was one ceaseless bother to buy, mostly in French; but one +damsel, confident of success assailed us in whining English, +running up and down before her wares, and seizing different objects +in quick succession, while continuing to praise their beauty and +cheapness. Every shop or stall we passed--and there were a good +many--had an inmate more or less importunate, but as what they had +to say was very similar, it can be all embodied in the following + +"CRY OF THE LOURDES SHOPKEEPERS." + +This way, if you please, miss; and madame, this way; +Kind sir, pause a moment, and see. +Oh! tell me, I beg, what's your pleasure to-day? +Pray enter--the entrance is free. + +Some candles? I've nice ones at half a franc each, +Or thirty centimes, if you will. +Some tins, each with lids fitted tight as a leech, +For you, with blest water to fill. + +And look at these beads, only forty centimes, +All carved, and most beautif'ly neat. +I've "charms" that will give you the sweetest of dreams, +And _bénitiers_ lovely and sweet. + +A cross of pure ivory. Photographs too. +--No good?--You want nothing to-day?-- +Alas! what on earth must poor shopkeepers do? +Oh, kindly buy something, I pray! + +One candle? You must have _one_ candle to burn +When into the grotto you tread. +Not one? Not a little one? Onward you turn! +Bah! may miseries light on your head!! + +As soon as the shops were passed, and even before, women besieged +us with packets of candles, and it was with great difficulty we +made them understand the word No! Then, leaving the Hôtels de la +Grotte and Latapie on the right, and the "Panorama" on the opposite +side, we wound down towards the river and the grotto. + +To us, it would be hard to conceive anything more pitiable or +repulsive than the scene which met our gaze as we passed at the +base of the church and came in full view of the grotto. An +irregular opening in the dull grey stone going back only a few +feet, with the moisture oozing over it here and there, and the ivy +and weeds adding picturesqueness to what would otherwise be +commonplace; in an elevated niche on the right, a figure of the +Virgin in white robes and blue sash; in front, on the left, a +covered marble cistern, with taps; and innumerable crutches and +candles, were all the unsuperstitious eye could see. But to those +poor wretches gathered round in prayer, influenced by the "light- +headed" dreams of a poor swineherd, the spot was the holiest of +holy ground. The abject reverence of their attitudes, the stand of +flaming and guttering candles, the worship and kissing of the rough +wet stones, the pious drinking of the cistern's water as they came +away--a few pausing to buy some "blest" token of their visit at the +adjacent shop--and the solemn silence that reigned over all, were +the chief features that made the scene one from which we were only +too glad to turn away. Taking the zigzag path among the pleasant +trees and shrubs, on the right, we soon reached the level of the +Gothic church, which we entered from the farther end. Ascending the +steps, the two statues on either side of the porch came in view, +but neither repaid a nearer inspection; St. Bernard, on the left, +looking about as dejected and consumptive as anyone, priest or +layman, well could. The church itself, from a Roman Catholic +standpoint, must be considered very fine, but the adoration of the +Virgin to the almost complete disregard of her subjection to "Our +Saviour" is most apparent. The windows and many of the altars are +beautiful, and so are many of the banners, while the high altar is +a great work of art; but the _unreligious_ tone that this striving +after effect produces, but without which the religion--or so-called +religion--would soon cease to exist, struck us as we entered, and +increased with every step. It was as if to say, "Look at these +lovely things, feast your eyes on them, and let their beauty be the +mainspring to inspire you with faith." There was no appeal to the +true religion of the soul, that springs from the heart in a clear +stream, and which no tinsel banners, no elaborate statues, and no +flaming candles, can quicken or intensify! + +Leaving the church by the high road, with the Convent and "Place," +--with its neat walks and grass plots,--on the left, we proceeded to +the "Panorama," where, our admiration having been tempered by the +payment of a franc each, we spent an enjoyable quarter of an hour. +The painting as a whole--representing Lourdes twenty-five years +ago--is most effective, and the effect is heightened by the +admirable combination with real earth, and grass, and trees. The +grouping of the figures round the grotto, representing the scene at +the eighteenth appearance of the Virgin to Bernadette--who is the +foremost figure kneeling in the grotto--is particularly fine; but +how that huge crowd standing there were content with Bernadette's +assertion that she saw the vision, when none of them saw anything +but the stones, is a practical question that few probably could +answer, and least of all the priests. [Illustration] Returning by +the way we had come, we bore up the Rue du Fort to inspect the old +castle--or all that remained of it--and enjoy the view. After some +two hundred yards of this narrow street, painfully suggestive, in +the vileness of its odours, of Canton's narrower thoroughfares, we +reached the steps leading up on the left, and commenced the ascent. +As it was, we did not find it very difficult work, though if a +rifle had been levelled from every slit in the two-foot walls, it +is probable that before _two_ of the nearly two hundred steps had +been surmounted, we would have been levelled also. Passing between +once impregnable walls (where English soldiers also passed in days +of yore), we crossed the now harmless-looking drawbridge and rang +the bell. A woman opened the door and requested us to enter, a +request which evidently met with the approbation of two diminutive +youngsters, whose faces were dimpled with smiles wherever the fat +would allow. Keeping along the right wall in the direction of the +pig-sties (O! shades of the Black Prince!!!) we were greeted with +the musical tones of the "porkers" and many _sweet_ odours. Having +entered one of the prisons at the base of the tower for a moment, +we next followed the ever-winding steps till fairly giddy, and +reached the top. Thence the view was exceedingly fine. We seemed to +be at the meeting-point of four valleys, and the snow peaks in the +direction of Argelès were free from clouds. The whole of Lourdes +lay like a map beneath; the church with the "Calvary" on the hill +over against it, the river sparkling in the sunlight, the Pic de +Jer with its brown sides, and the winding roads with the green +fields and budding trees, joining to make a pleasant picture. + +Descending again to the hotel, we partook of a capital lunch, of +which the "pie de mars," or ringed ousel--a bird of migratory +habits, little known in our isles (except in a few parts of +Scotland), but considered a great delicacy here--formed a part. +After this, Miss Blunt once again devoted herself to the Pyrenean +puppy, till the carriage came round and we took our departure. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +ARGELÈS. + +Road v. Rail--Scenes, sublime and ridiculous--Hôtel d'Angleterre-- +Questions and "The Argelès Shepherd's Reply"--A forbidden path--The +ride to Ges, Serres, Salluz, and Ourous--Argelès church--Route +Thermale--Ges--The tree in the path--"A regular fix"--Serres--" +It's a stupid foal that doesn't know its own mother "--A frothing +stream--A fine view--Pigs in clover--Salluz--Ourous--Contented +villagers--The high road--The bridge on the Pierrefitte road-- +Advice to sketchers--"Spring's Bitters and Sweets"--The "witch of +the hills"--Large green lizards--"Jeannette's Lamb"--Round the +Argelès valley--Château de Beaucens--Villelongue--Soulom--The old +church--Hôtel de la Poste, Pierrefitte--St. Savin--The verger and +the ancient church--Cagots--"The Organ's Tale"--St. Savin's tomb-- +The Château de Miramont--Jugged izard--Market-day--Sour bread and +the remedy--Arrival of the first parcel. + + +Although the railway line takes very nearly the same route as the +carriage road, the drive is decidedly preferable, and when it can +be undertaken for ten francs--as in our case--there is little to +choose between the modes of conveyance on the score of cheapness, +especially as a landau can carry a very fair quantity of luggage. +We considered ourselves amply repaid for our choice as we wound +underneath the rocky crags and by the side of the river, anon +ascending the curve of a small hill with the fresh fields below, a +little church or ivied ruin standing out on the mountain-side, and +high above all, the snowy summits so majestic and so intensely +white. There was occasionally a ridiculous side to the picture too, +when we put a flock of sheep in rapid motion in a wrong direction +and the luckless shepherd had to start in hot pursuit--using the +politest of language; or, again, when some natives on tiny donkeys +or skittish mules came by, their faces breaking into a respectful +grin as they wished us "bon jour." Skirting the railway line for a +short distance, we drove into Argelès rather unexpectedly, our ride +having seemed all too short. However, there was our hotel--the +Grand Hôtel d'Angleterre (everything is grand now-a-days)--standing +boldly by the road, with the quaint, though poor-looking village +about it, and for another few days that was to be our abode. +[Illustration] This hotel, though possessing less of a reputation +than the Hôtel de France, nevertheless commands a finer view on all +sides, and is a pleasanter abode on that account. The afternoon was +still young when we arrived, so as soon as we had stowed our +luggage we sallied out for a walk along the road to Pierrefitte. A +short way from the hotel, an old shepherd was standing in the +middle of the road leaning on his staff, with his flock of sheep +all round him, and the dog lolling idly on the grass. The tall +poplars by the roadside waking into life, the merry stream +meandering at their feet, and the back ground of mountains tipped +with snow, filled up the scene. We accosted the old man with a +good-day, and asked him several questions about the weather and +himself, all of which he answered in a genial way, and which strung +together made up + +"THE ARGELÈS SHEPHERD'S REPLY." + + Good-day, sir! The weather, sir; will it be wet? + You see, sir, I hardly can say, + We gen'rally know at the earliest dawn + What weather we'll have in the day; + But at night--in these mountains--I couldn't be sure, + And I'd rather not tell you, sir, wrong. + And yet, what does a day here or there make to you? + If it rains, 'twill be fine before long. + Have I always looked after the sheep, sir? Why, No! + I've served in the army, sir, sure. + Let me see--ah!--it's now thirty summers ago + Since those hardships we had to endure. + Ay, I fought with your soldiers 'mid bleak Russia's snow, + Half numb'd in the trenches I worked, + And suffered what few of you gents, sir, would know, + But somehow, we none of us shirked. + Was I wounded, sir? No, sir! thank Goodness for that, + Though I've seen some stiff fighting, 'tis true. + In Africa 'twasn't all sunshine and play, + And in Austria we'd plenty to do. + Do I like being a shepherd, sir, roaming the hills, + Just earning enough to buy bread? + Well, I wouldn't have cared all my days, for the ills + And the life that as soldier I led. + No, sir! no! though 'twas well enough then, Peace, you see, + Is the best when one's hair's turning grey! + Will I drink your good health, sir? Ay, proud I shall be, + And, thanking you kindly--Good-day!!! + +Strolling on, we soon reached the bridge over the River Gave +d'Azun, and leaving the old structure "whose glory has departed" on +the right, we crossed over and continued along the road for a short +distance, till we noticed a lane leading off to the left, which we +followed. This in time bore further round in the same direction and +suddenly ended at the entrance to a field. However, keeping +straight on, we came in view of the river's bank and to this we +kept, recrossing by the railway bridge below, and then back by the +fields home, completing a round none the less pleasant because a +captious critic might have called it trespassing. + +As lovely a ride or walk as can well be imagined, even by an +imagination as fertile as this lovely valley, passes by way of the +four villages of Ges, Serres, Salluz, and Ourous. Although the +weather was rather unsettled, we started one morning about 9.15, +and following the road towards Lourdes for about two hundred yards, +took the sharp turn to the left (with the telegraph wires) up into +the town. Gaining the church, we bore along to the right into the +open "Place," at the left corner of which the Route Thermale to +Eaux Bonnes and Eaux Chaudes begins. For about half a mile this was +our road also, but after that distance, the Ges route branched off +to the right, and the views of Argelès, and the rest of the valley +from it, as we wound upwards, were particularly lovely. The horses +were very fresh, having only lately been brought from the +mountains, after a winter of idleness, and they walked at a fast +pace fretting at any stoppage whatever, which they did not +endeavour to disguise, any more than their inclination to shy at +anything they possibly could. As far as Ges the way is easy to +follow, but it is wise to inquire frequently afterwards, as so many +equally important (this importance is decidedly on the negative +side) looking paths branch off in every direction. The good people +we saw in Ges, a village of thatched cottages looking the worse for +rain, said we should find the "road vile," but this did not daunt +us, and with a "bon jour" we passed on. We had not gone very far, +however, when to our dismay we saw a huge tree right across the +road. Our position was an awkward one. The road was rather narrow +and without any protection; there was only the steep hillside +above, and the steep hillside below. To go up was quite +impracticable, to go down was destruction! My horse approached the +impediment very quietly, and allowed me to break off several of the +worst branches, and then scramble by. Miss Blunt's horse came close +up to it as though intending to pass quietly, but, instead, wheeled +round on the extreme edge of the path in anything but a pleasant +fashion, either for the rider or the observer. [Illustration] +Dismounting and tying my steed to one of the branches on the near +side of the road, I held back as many of the others as possible, +and the horse came up quietly again, but repeated the disagreeable +business, still more dangerously. Having broken off several more, +and again pulled back the others, the skittish animal consented to +pass. But in passing he bent down a very pliant bough, which, when +released, flew back and hit my peaceful steed sharply on the legs. +For a few seconds his efforts to get free were--to put it mildly-- +unpleasantly severe, especially as he became with each effort more +entangled in the tree. When the reins were at length unknotted, he +quieted a little, and after being led a few yards, submitted to be +mounted very peaceably, and we descended, with the fresh leaves +above and below us, into Serres. Here we had occasion to remark +that "It's a stupid foal that doesn't know its own mother," as one +pretty little thing would persist in following our steeds, until a +sturdy "paysanne" turned it back. The correct route all this time +was the upper one (or that to the left), and we now came to a very +lovely bit, where two swift frothing streams dashed down beneath +the trees, near a small saw-mill. A fine view up the valley behind +us, to the snow peaks towering over the ruddy hill-tops, was +enjoyed, as we continued along the ascending and uneven path. In +the fields above, some shepherds were driving a flock of sheep, and +a woman, reposing under a huge blue gingham, was watching the +vigorous onslaught of several pigs in a small clover patch. A few +villagers, in their Sunday best, stood by the wayside discussing +some topic with languid interest, which they dropped, to wish us +"bon jour" and tell us the road. More lovely effects of light and +shade over the hills towards Pierrefitte, with filmy clouds +shrouding the tallest summits, and here and there a glimpse of the +blue sky, and we passed into the straggling hamlet of Salluz, after +which the path branched up--still to the left--through the trees. +Winding down again, we came to Ourous, to which apparently the +inhabitants from all the other villages had come, dressed in their +Sunday best, to mass. "Young men and maidens, old men and +children," women tottering with extreme age, were all assembled +round about the old church, looking contented and happy, smiling, +and wishing us a "bon jour" as we rode in a circular direction +through the village, till we reached a spot where the road forks, +the one to the right leading to Argelès, the one to the left to +Lourdes. The former looked so stony that we chose the other, and +had not gone very far before a smooth and broader path to the right +(from which a grand view of the whole valley opened before us) +brought us down to a few houses, between which we passed, and +reached the high-road. A good trot along this, by the side of the +railway line, and we were back at the hotel, convinced that the +badness of the road and all drawbacks were amply--and more than +amply--outweighed by the succession of beautiful scenery. + +Two walks, one ending in rather a scramble, branch off immediately +below the bridge, on the Pierrefitte road. The one we took, at a +respectable hour of the morning, which ascends the left side of the +mound, is the prettier by far, as it discloses lovely glimpses at +every turn. We followed it till it branched off in two directions +(the one to the left being the real continuation), but at this +point we turned off into a field, deep in grass and studded with +flowers, where some comfortable-looking boulders invited us to +rest. Miss Blunt,--whose soul thrills with delight at the vastness +and beauty of nature,--never allowed opportunities of committing +the choicest bits to canvas or paper, to escape her; and, some +picturesque display having caught her eye, directly she had located +herself on an accommodating boulder, she was at work. Herrick's +good advice, "Gather ye rosebuds while ye may--Old Time is still a- +flying," might be adapted, she thinks, to sketchers in mountainous +regions, and she speaks from bitter experience when she suggests: + +"Paint in your snow-peaks while you may, +If clouds are quickly flying, +For those heights now in bright display +May soon in mist be lying." + +The beauty of the scene was without alloy, the colouring splendid, +and up the road above us, beyond which rose the hill, a shepherd +was leading his flock of sheep, now and then clapping his hands or +shouting to a straggler, but as a rule walking quietly on, the +whole flock following in a continuous line. Not wishing to be idle, +I took out my pencil to indulge in a poetic eulogy. How far I +succeeded may be judged from the following lines, which might be +called + +"SPRING'S BITTERS AND SWEETS." + +Here on a moss-grown boulder sitting, +Watching the graceful swallows flitting, +Hearing the cuckoo's note. +Sheep on the hills around me feeding, +While in their piteous accents pleading, +The lambkins' bleatings float. +--Oh, dear! a fly gone down my throat. + +Spring's gentle influence all things feeling, +New life o'er hill and valley stealing: +Buttercups, daisies fair, +Studding the meadow, sweetly smiling, +Bees with their hum the hours beguiling, +Breezes so soft and rare. +--Oh, what a fearful wasp was there! + +Grand is the view from this grey boulder, +Each high snow-peak, each rocky shoulder: +Charming, yet wild, the sight. +Cherry-trees, with white blossom laden, +And 'neath their shade a peasant maiden, +Comely her costume bright. +--Oh, how these impish ants do bite! + +Onward the winding river's flowing, +Its spray-splashed stones in sunshine glowing, +The peaceful oxen by. +From the tall trees the magpies' warning, +As on their nests intent, our presence scorning, +From branch to branch they fly. +--Oh! there's an insect in my eye. +I've done: such pests one really can't defy. + +Miss Blunt couldn't defy them either, so, as it was getting near +luncheon-time besides, we retraced our steps, but had not gone very +far before we suffered a severe disappointment. Some fifty yards +below us in the path stood a seeming counterpart of "Madge +Wildfire"; a wild, weird, wizened looking creature, whom we +immediately recognised as a "witch of the hills." Her hair unkempt, +her bodice hanging in tatters from her shoulders, her patched and +threadbare petticoat barely fastened round what should have been +her waist (and a _waste_ it was) by a hook and eye held by a few +threads--even such as this, up the path she came. But what a +miserable failure she was! When she came close to us, instead of +pouring out a torrent of mad words, telling of her woes and wrongs, +or at any rate breaking into a disgusting whine such as + + "Oh, gentles, I am mad and old, + My dress is worn and thin; + Oh, give me one small piece of gold! + To clothe my wretched skin;" + +she didn't even offer to tell our fortunes, but passed timidly by. +It was enough to have disappointed a saint! and we were only +restored to a pleasant frame of mind by finding Mr. Sydney at the +hotel on our return. + +[Illustration] + +In the afternoon we took the other path--previously mentioned as +branching off below the bridge over the Gave d'Azun,--which leading +sharply to the right, passes beside the river for a short distance, +and then leads among the fields, finally--like others in Argelès-- +losing itself there. Just as the poplars which run with it ceased, +we had a lovely view up a dip between two fertile hills, to the +snow-peaks near Barèges; a narrow path skirts the side of the hill, +on the right, in the direction of the morning's sketching ground, +but this we did not take, making, instead, for the hill standing +immediately above the river. Up this a certain distance we +clambered--scaring a few large green lizards that were sunning +themselves on the stones,--by a sheep track we managed to discover, +till we could look down on a mass of tangled brushwood by the +riverside. Scrambling down to this through the wild vines and +briars, we succeeded, after many fruitless attempts, in gaining the +water's edge. There was no place to cross and the current was far +too swift to attempt jumping, so we had to turn back. While +deliberating on the right path, a little girl, looking very +wretched, with blurred face and torn clothes, came round a corner, +and asked us if we had seen a lamb anywhere. We were sorry we +hadn't, very sorry indeed; all we could do was to endeavour to +recollect a rhyme and adapt it to her case, that we learnt in the +nursery when we were something under fifteen, and, although it +didn't seem to assuage her grief much--probably because she didn't +understand a word of English--we think it ought to be quoted in +case it should be useful to others. + +JEANNETTE'S LAMB. + +Jeannette had a naughty lamb, +That looked like dirty snow; +And wherever Jeannette went +That lamb would never go. + +It wandered from her care one day, +(Oh, stupid little fool!) +It made her cry her heart away +While searching brake and pool. + +And Jeannette tore her dress to rags, +And scratched her hands and face; +But of her dirty little lamb +She couldn't find a trace. + +The lamb fell in the river deep, +But Jeannette never knew. +Though Satan finds some mischief still, +For little lambs to do. + +However, she listened very submissively till we had finished, and +then wandered off again still searching for her lamb, while we +retraced our steps. + +There is a drive round the Argelès valley, which on a fine day is +simply splendid, and ought certainly not to be missed. At ten a.m. +a landau with two good horses was at the door, and away we went +towards Argelès station, across the line, over a new piece of road, +and then across a rather shaky, but wholly quaint, wooden bridge +(under which flows the Gave de Pau) to the base of the hills. As we +continued along this road in the direction of Pierrefitte, the +views of the mountains on the Argelès side were especially fine. +The Pic d'Arrens (7435 ft.) and the Col de Tortes (5903 ft.), with +the wild Pic de Gabizos (8808 ft.) with its toothed summits, behind +it--in the direction of Eaux Bonnes: over Pierrefitte the Pic de +Soulom (5798 ft.), the Pic de Viscos (7025 ft.), and far up the +Cauterets valley the Cabaliros (7655 ft.), the Pic de Labassa (9781 +ft.), and the Pyramide de Peyrelance (8800 ft. about). An +especially interesting part arrives, as the road approaches the +wonderful old ruin of the Château de Beaucens (with "oubliettes" +towers, a "donjon" of the 14th century, and west walls of the 16th +ditto), which stands on the left, not far from the village of the +same name. Crossing the river again, we just managed to pass over +some newly-laid road, to the village of Villelongue--above which, +on the left, towers the imposing Pic de Villelongue--and soon after +found ourselves beside the river again at the foot of the Pic de +Soulom, where it is very lovely, and crossing another bridge, +reached Soulom itself. It seemed to us an old and somewhat dirty +town--not to say filthy--but the church is worthy of a visit. It +was formerly fortified, and the construction of the belfry--if such +it can be called--is curious. The inscription over the door, "This +is the house of God and the gate of heaven," written in Latin, +seems somewhat grotesque for such a building, although the dome is +painted to represent the sky in all the "intensity" of a starlight +night. A few yards along the road and we stood on the bridge over +the "Gave de Cauterets," at the other side of which is Pierrefitte +--and from which point the scenery is especially grand. Passing the +Hôtel de la Poste (recommended) on the left, and the way to the +station on the right, we bore up the hill in the former direction, +towards St. Savin. + +This old place--in fact the oldest village in the valley--is an +easy walk from Argelès, and should certainly not be excluded from a +visit. Having passed the dismantled Château de Despourrins and the +statue at the roadside erected in the poet's (Despourrins') honour, +we had a grand glimpse of the valley below; and, leaving behind the +Chapelle de Piétad (16th century), which stands on a point above +the road, we entered the village. The street leading to the ancient +Roman Church is ancient too, reminding one, in the curious +construction of the houses, of Chester, the style of supporting the +upper part on wooden beams, reaching over the road, and leaving a +passage beneath, being very similar. The church has been restored +and is in capital preservation. As there were so many objects of +interest, chiefly connected with the great St. Savin himself, we +sent for the verger, sexton, bellringer, parish beadle, or whatever +the "goîtreux" individual called himself, and paid great attention +to all he had to say. Although a good deal was quite unintelligible, +the following are some of the most interesting facts. Entering +at the small side door, immediately within stands a curious +and very old bénitier (font), with two curious individuals +carved in the stone supporting the basin. These are supposed to +represent two "Cagots," a despised race for whom the font itself +was constructed. Very few people know anything about their origin, +but they were greatly detested by the inhabitants of the country, +and not even allowed to worship in the same church, or use the same +"holy water" as the rest. They still exist about Gavarnie and a few +other spots, and we hope to learn more of them. The old battered +organ next presents itself to the view, with the long flight of +steps leading up to it, but as it wished to tell its own story, +without further description behold + +"THE ORGAN'S TALE." + + Good people who gaze at my ruinous state, + Don't lift up your noses and sneer: + I've a pitiful story I wish to relate, + And, I pray you, believe me sincere. + + I was young, I was "sweet," in the years that are gone, + The breath through my proud bosom rolled, + And I loved to peal forth as the service went on, + O'er the heads of the worshipping fold. + + How time speeds along! Three whole centuries--yes!-- + Have passed since the day of my birth; + And, good people, I thought myself then, you may guess, + The loveliest organ on earth. + + Such pipes and such stops! and a swell--such a swell!!! + My music rang under the dome; + And the way that I held the old folks 'neath my spell + You should know; but alas! they've gone "home." + + Then my varnish was bright, and my panels were gay + With devices both script'ral and quaint; + I frightened the _sinner_ with hair turning grey, + But charmed into rapture the _saint_. + + Those faces once painted so brightly would smile, + And put out their tongues at my voice; + As the pedals were played, they would wag all the while, + And the children below would rejoice. + + Now is it not sad to have once been so grand, + And now to be shattered and old? + To look but a ruin up here, where I stand + Decidedly out in the cold? + + Each "pipe is put out," and my "stops" are no more, + I belong to a "period" remote; + And as to the tongues that wagged freely of yore, + They have long disappeared down the throat. + + My pedals are broken or gone quite awry, + My "keys"--you may "note"--are now dust; + No longer a "swell"--not as faint as a sigh-- + While my bellows, good people, are "bust." + + I am twisted and worn, in a ruinous state, + But prythee, good people, don't sneer! + My joys and my sorrows I've tried to relate, + And in judging me don't be severe!!! + +Leaving the organ, and passing behind the "high altar," we beheld +the tomb of the redoubtable saint, who is supposed to have been +shut up there at the end of the 10th century, though the gilt +ornament (?) above is some four centuries younger. The set of old +paintings to the right and left represent scenes in the good man's +life, who, if he had only changed the _i_ in his name to _o_--and +the king would have agreed readily--by the perpetual allusion to +_Savon_, would perhaps have done much for the natives generally. +The robing-room, wherein the head of the revered man is kept in a +casket, and the "Salle du Chapitre," with quaint carvings of the +12th century, beyond, are other places of interest. + +The "Château de Miramont," which adjoins, is now used as a convent +(or college), and visitors are not permitted to inspect it. We +bought a lithographed print of the church and its environs for half +a franc, from our round-backed guide, besides depositing a +"douceur" in his horny palm, and consequently parted with him on +the best of terms. The road for some distance being rather steep, +we preferred to walk and let the carriage follow, but when nearing +the junction with the Pierrefitte road, we mounted again and bowled +along at a smart pace over the well-known bridge to the hotel. + +There was nothing striking about our hotel life, although we found +it pleasant, being a "parti carré." We were generally the sole +partakers of the table-d'hôte, at which the food was excellent, the +jugged chamois (izard) being especially good. Light, however, was +at a premium. It may have been all out of compliment, to bear +testimony to our being "shining lights" ourselves; still, for all +that, we should have been glad to forego the politeness, and +receive, instead, a reinforcement of lamps. + +Argelès itself is a peculiar old place; though devoid of much +interest, except on market-days. The curious houses and towers, the +street watercourses (as at Bagnères de Bigorre), the church, and +the strange chapel-like building now used as a diocesan college, +are all that is noteworthy even, excepting the "State schools," +built three years ago. + +On a Tuesday, when the market is in full swing, the square in front +of the post-office looks bright and cheerful, and vegetables +flourish. We took a very pleasant walk after passing through the +stalls, and down past the Hôtel de France. The route we followed +leads to the right, close by the new State schools, among some poor +cottages, where it turns sharply in the opposite direction, and +runs down beside some fine old chestnut trees to the river. +Continuing, the track leads up a fine glen, with views of the snow- +peaks towards Eaux Bonnes, which well repaid our walk. + +Returning again by the town, we wandered about through the narrow +streets, taking a farewell survey before leaving for Cauterets, +whither we were next intent. + +There is another episode connected with Argelès, that will live in +our memories, and it is one that future travellers, methinks, may +have reason to appreciate, if not to endorse. + +Everybody learns from unhappy experience how sour the bread is +throughout the Pyrenees, only excepting two or three resorts, and +as we were aware of the fact before leaving Pau, we arranged with +Monsieur Kern, of the Austrian Bakery, Rue de la Préfecture, to +send us a certain amount of bread every day. The first night at +Argelès was spent without it, but on the evening of the following +day a packet was brought into the drawing-room, where we were +assembled, and at the magical word "bread" every eye brightened, +and every face relaxed into a smile. Let no one cavil. This was one +of the episodes that link Argelès to us with a pleasant charm. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +CAUTERETS. + +Hotel de la Poste, Pierrefitte--The Gorge--Its majestic beauty--The +resemblance to the Llanberis Pass--Mrs. Blunt becomes poetical--Zinc +mines--Le Pont de Médiabat--Entering the town--The Rue Richelieu and +Hôtel du Parc--Winter's seal upon them still--Thermes des +Oeufs--Thermes de César--The Casino and Esplanade des Oeufs--A good +dinner and the menu--The start for the Col de Riou--The Grange de la +Reine Hortense--The pines--Miss Blunt's "exhortation to the first +snow"--The dogs and their gambols--Defeated, but not discouraged--To +the Cérizey Cascade--The baths of La Raillère, Petit St. Sauveur, and +Le Pré--Cascade du Lutour--The Marcadau gorge--Scenery--Pic de +Gaube--At the Cérizey Cascade--The Pont d'Espagne and Lac de +Gaube--Pont de Benqués--Lutour Valley--Various excursions up same--The +"Pare"--Allées de Gambasque--The Peguère--The "Pagoda" Villa--Promenade +du Mamelon Vert--The road's up again--Blows and blasts--The bishop's +arrival--Enthusiasm, pomposity, and benedictions--The pilgrims at +large--They start on an excursion--The market and Hôtel de Ville--The +grocer's opinion--Pyrenean dogs and their treatment--The +dog-fancier--Smiles and temper--Bargaining displaced--No dog after all! + + +A Landau with four horses was ready after lunch, to transport us and +our baggage to Cauterets; but having enjoyed Argelès very much, we were +none of us particularly glad at the prospect of the change. The road as +far as Pierrefitte, lovely as it is at this season of freshness, +discloses no other views than those previously described, but when we +turned sharply to the right, after passing the Hôtel de la Poste, and +began the ascent towards Cauterets, then our eyes had indeed a rich +treat. It would require the most dismal of dismal days, with sluicing +rain and clouds low down on every beautiful crag and snow-tipped +summit, to make anybody born with a soul above his dinner, complain of +the grandeur of the gorge, or impugn the unceasing variety of dashing +waterfalls, foaming river, freshly-opened leaves, white heather, and +bright, flower-decked fields. + +The same wild majesty as the Llanberis Pass presents, strikes one here: +the enormous crags in threatening attitude far up the heights, the +chasms and fissures brightened by a patch of young grass or a small +tree, and, nearer the road, the scattered boulders luxuriantly covered +with moss and fern, belong to both alike; and, while the bushes of +snowy heather, the constant splash of the cascades falling over the +rocks in feathery spray, and in the distance the hoary-headed monarchs +of the range reaching up towards the sky, make this different from the +familiar Welsh scene, it is only a difference that greatly intensifies +the beauty and the charm of this Cauterets gorge. + +Even Mrs. Blunt, who as a rule prefers the matter-of-fact to the +poetical, was lifted out of herself, for she suddenly clutched me by +the arm, and pointing in the distance, murmured something about +"summits proudly lifting up to the sky," and being quite unused to that +kind of thing, it took me some time to recover from the shock. + +A little over three miles from Pierrefitte,--where a glimpse at the +zinc mines and the wire tram in connection with them can be +obtained--the road passes over the bridge of Médiabat, and some yards +beyond becomes identical with the old route, which until then lay below +us. The new portion (made in 1874) only extends for about two miles, +as it does not commence till after the zigzag rise from Pierrefitte +leads into the gorge, but the engineering of the whole has been +admirably carried out, and the ascent of nearly 1,700 feet in the six +miles does not tell severely on the horses. Now in an almost straight +line, now by zigzags, we gradually neared the town, the gorge widening +at the same time, though the peaks, some covered with trees, some +snow-covered, seemed to bar the way completely at no very great +distance. + +We were quite close before we could really be said to have seen the +town, and ere we could form any opinion of it we drove up the Rue +Richelieu and found ourselves at the Hôtel du Parc. Monsieur +Villeneuve, the jovial and experienced host, and his pleasant spouse, +came out to welcome us, and although the hotel had only been open four +days, made us as comfortable as they could. + +[Illustration: CAUTERETS.] + +Cauterets (3,254 feet) was only just waking into life, only two or +three hotels, one or two hair-dressers, one confectioner's, one +tobacconist's, and one or two grocers' shops were open; while of the +bathing establishments, the "Thermes des Oeufs," the largest, and the +Thermes de César, were the only ones showing signs of renewed life. +The Esplanade des Oeufs, [Footnote: "Oeufs" because of the water's +scent resembling "rotten eggs."] a large tree-planted space in front of +the principal "thermes" (just mentioned)--which serves as casino, +concert-hall, and theatre as well--seemed utterly deserted; whereas in +summer, with the band playing, the trees in full leaf, the booths +opened, and the crowds of visitors, the scene must be the gayest of +the gay. We had just time to notice so much, on the afternoon of our +arrival, before the sun set behind the huge mountains which surround +this charming spot and the hour of dinner arrived. This dinner was so +excellent, so well cooked and served, that, although we despise with a +deep-rooted scorn the wretched class of individuals who make their +dinner their main object in life, we nevertheless consider that we are +only paying a merited tribute to the _chef_ in saying that the +cooking was always of a high standard, and quoting as a specimen the +evening's _menu_ (May 1): + +SOUP. +Gravy. + +FISH. +Salmon, with sliced potatoes and melted butter. + +MADE DISHES. +Hashed Veal. Sauce Piquante. +Sweetbreads and green peas. + +ROAST. +Chicken. + +VEGETABLES. +Asparagus. Potatoes (new). + +PUDDING. +Sago. + +ICE, &c. +Vanilla cream. +Cheese, Jelly, and Biscuits. + +When we woke the following morning, the sun shining from a cloudless +sky proclaimed an "excursion morning." Accordingly, we sent for a +guide, to inquire if a visit to the Lac de Gaube was practicable. The +guide arrived, and disappointment ensued. It was possible to go if we +didn't mind a few miles of snow, two feet deep and upwards. But we did +mind very strongly, and said so. Then the burly native spoke again, and +said that the Col de Riou was an easy trip, that we could take horses +to within a short distance of the summit, and that when we got there +the splendid view would include St. Sauveur, Argelès, Barèges, +Gavarnie, &c. &c. And we answered the burly native in his sister tongue +(_patois_ was his mother tongue), or as near to it as we could, +and said, "Have three horses ready by half-past ten at this hotel, and +we will start." Then, delighted, he smiled and bowed, and disappeared +down the street. + +At eleven o'clock the cavalcade started, and a noble cavalcade it was: +Miss Blunt on a strong dark bay pony, Mr. Sydney on a similar-coloured +horse, and myself on a grey, formed the van; then came our burly friend +(by name Pont Dominique), and another guide (Berret), carrying the +lunch; and the rear was brought up by a small brindled bull-dog, and a +smaller specimen of unknown breed, which was nevertheless a capital +harmony in orange and white. In this order we left the Rue Richelieu +and ascended the Rue d'Etigny, passing under several wreaths and +crowns, with which the streets were decorated. We had previously +noticed these grand preparations on our arrival, and though sensible of +the good feeling that apparently prompted these attentions, we thought +they were somewhat superfluous. But that is (as they were) by the way. +Having soon reached the last of the houses, we gained the Rue du Pauze +Vieux, and turning sharply to the right, ascended to the two +establishments known respectively as the Pauze Vieux and Pauze Nouveau. +And here a paradox--pause, view, and be convinced! The Pauze Vieux is +the Pauze Nouveau and the Pauze Nouveau is the Pauze Vieux. Should any +well-educated citizen of any country under the sun (or daughter) be +disposed to doubt, let him examine the buildings for himself, and he +must agree. + +Half-an-hour after starting we reached the cottage known as the "Grange +de la Reine Hortense," the view from which is excessively fine. Looking +down towards the town, the mighty Cabaliros (7655 ft.), forming a +semicircle, stood above on the right; to the left of this semicircle +reared up the Monné (8938 ft.), the highest mountain in the vicinity, +from which other peaks make another similar formation, ending with La +Brune, beside which, but more to the left and immediately over the +town, rises the Peguère, covered with irregularly-heaped crags, and +pines. The town itself looked very neat and compact: the Mamelon Vert +(a small hill to the right) and the chief thorough-fares being easily +distinguished. Far up the Lutour valley, to the extreme left, the Pic +de Labassa, or de la Sèbe (9781 ft.), and the Pyramide de Peyrelance +(8800 ft.), completed the chief points of the scene in that direction; +but far away in the opposite one we could easily see the Argelès valley +and the Gothic church of Lourdes. Behind us, seemingly facing the +Cabaliros, were the Col de Riou (6375 ft.), our would-be destination, +and the Pic de Viscos. Winding up the hillside, and passing banks blue +with the large and small gentian, we entered the pines, which made a +pleasant change. As at the Col d'Aspin, [Footnote: Vide Bigorre, p. +42.] the rising sap filled the air with its refreshing odour, and the +occasional glimpses of blue sky, mountain, and valley, through the +gently waving branches, were very charming. + +[Illustration: ASCENT OF COL DE RIOU] + +We had not proceeded very far through the trees when we reached a +break, where one of the party felt that at least something had been +gained. There, partly on the track, partly on the loose stones above +it, lay a bank of snow, and so delighted was Miss Blunt at having +attained the (present) snow-line--say about 4600 feet above sea +level--that her feelings were not to be in any way damped or +suppressed, as they burst forth in an + +"EXHORTATION TO THE FIRST SNOW." + + Emblem of Purity, + Chilly as Charity, +Oh, what a joy your deep whiteness to view! + Something is gain'd at last, + But you are melting fast, +Why does the cruel sun put you to stew? + + Tell me, O long-lain snow, + What of the vale below? +What do you think about people and things? + Do you love forest-trees? + Or love you more the breeze? +Tell me what bird you think most sweetly sings? + + What? You've no heart at all? + Cannot help where you fall, +Caring not if you swell to a huge size: + Minding not how you rush, + What you break, whom you crush? +Surely such feelings you ought to disguise. + + Ah, well! we won't discuss, + Useless to make a fuss; +For, after all, I am glad that we met. + Emblem of Purity, + Chilly as Charity-- +But I won't roll in you. No! you're too wet! + +The two dogs were amusing in their absurdity. They were perpetually +endeavouring to detach stones from the side of the pathway, so as to +have the pleasure of pursuing them down the steep. At times, when the +hill was thickly strewn with leaves or particularly steep, they +completely disappeared, though violent pulsations among the scattered +branches and the aforesaid leaves told us they were not lost, but only +temporarily buried. + +When we had barely mounted another 400 feet, we came upon regular banks +of snow, right over the path. This was quite unexpected, and we had to +decide whether to leave the horses and tramp through the snow, or to +return. We chose the latter--although the Col de Riou stood out +seemingly very practicable of ascent--and, returning on foot, the +horses and guides following, with the dogs here, there, and everywhere, +we reached the "Grange de la Reine Hortense" and proceeded to lunch. +After giving a very good account of the _paté_ sandwiches, and not +forgetting the guides and the dogs, we made our way slowly back, +defeated perhaps, but certainly not discouraged. + +Although neither the Lac de Gaube nor the Pont d'Espagne were +attainable, the Cérizey Fall, which is about one third of the distance +to the lake along the same route, was kind enough to put itself at our +disposal. Not wishing to appear ungrateful, we availed ourselves of a +fine afternoon to order round the horses and our two guides, and +started about two o'clock. For some time we followed the road known as +the Rue de la Raillère, which leads to the baths of the same name from +the Place St. Martin; crossing the river by a very unpretentious +bridge, not far from the town. Leaving La Raillère behind, and passing +in turn the drinking establishment of Mauhourat--near which the Gaves +of Lutour and Marcadau form the Gave of Cauterets--and the baths of +Petit St. Sauveur and Le Pré, and gaining as we mounted a good view of +the "Cascade de Lutour" on the left, we entered the Marcadau valley, or +(more properly) gorge. The scenery, similar somewhat to that at the +entrance to the Cauterets gorge from Pierrefitte, is nevertheless +wilder and more severe. The occasional bright fields and frequent +mountain streams, with their merry music, disappear; but the lofty +heights, the gloomy firs, the mighty crags and boulders, and the +snow-peaks beyond, remain. After a great amount of very rough and steep +ascending--the Pic de Gaube (7644 ft.) the while standing conspicuously +before us--we reached the small hut that is intended as a shelter, near +the fall. Dismounting and taking the narrow path to the right over the +stones, immediately above the hut, we obtained a capital view of this +noisy cascade. Other views were obtained by us from above, by +clambering over the stones and boulders at the side of the torrent; but +this is the best of all. From the hut (mentioned above) one hour's good +walking, over anything but a pleasant track, brings one to the Pont +d'Espagne, and it requires another forty minutes to reach the Lac de +Gaube. + +[Footnote: The lake is full of excellent salmon trout, and there is a +small inn on its shores, where visitors can stop the night in summer. +The Vignemale, from whose summit the view is wonderfully vast, rears up +above the lake.] + +As horses can be taken for the whole distance when the road is free +from snow, our feelings at not being able to proceed can be better +imagined than described! By Mauhourat, whither we presently returned, +the Pont de Benquès crosses the Marcadau, and the track to the left +leads up the valley of the Gavé de Lutour. We did not pursue it very +far, as the workmen were busy repairing it, and it is also very rough +and steep. Several favourite excursions, however, are reached by it, +among which may be mentioned the Cascade de "Pisse-Arros" (forty +minutes from Cauterets), the "Fruitière" (two hours from Cauterets), +the Lac d'Estom, 5847 ft. (three hours from Cauterets), the Ravin +d'Araillé (three hours forty-five minutes), the Lake of Estom Soubiran, +7632 ft. (four hours thirty minutes), the Lake of Estibaoute, 7744 ft. +(four hours forty five minutes), and the Col d'Estom Soubiran (six +hours thirty minutes). + +[Illustration: LAC DE GAUBE.] + +Instead of again crossing the bridge below La Raillère, we kept to the +left, along what may have been _once_ a Roman road, but which was +_now_ at any rate a track both unpleasant and dangerous. + +For some distance, large boulders, soil, and smaller stones overhung +it, and seemed as though the least rain or slightest push would bring +them down. Gradually this unpleasantness ceased, and as the road +widened we passed a few villas and entered the "Parc," which, according +to the natives, is part and parcel of the Esplanade des Oeufs, the +great summer resort in front of the Casino, from the back of which a +pleasant path of very gentle gradient ascends for about a mile to the +"Allées de Cambasque," up the flank of the Peguère; and to the Cabanes +(huts) de Cambasque beyond. + +Although there is but little level road for enjoying a ride, we +nevertheless managed to pass a short time very pleasantly on horseback. +Leaving the Esplanade des Oeufs on the left, we took the road passing +between the back of the Hôtel d'Angleterre and a curious chalet, built +with a pagoda beside it, and little bridges in communication. Following +this road, which is known as the Promenade du Mamelon Vert, [Footnote: +The Mamelon Vert is a green hill near the entrance to the town.] and in +turn passing the "Café du Mamelon Vert"--near which the track to the +Cabaliros branches off--and the commencement of the path to Catarabe, +we bore down to the right at the back of the Mamelon, and crossed the +Gave by a rickety wooden bridge--shortly to be superseded by one of +stone--into the Pierrefitte road. Down this, through the fine gorge +within sight of the mines, and then back to the hotel, constituted the +remainder of the ride. + +Our stay at Cauterets was not without excitement, though certainly that +excitement was not of a pleasant kind. We soon discovered that the +decorating of the streets was for the benefit of the "Confirmation +Procession," for which the Bishop was coming from Tarbes. The Rue +Richelieu was "up" all along one side for the laying of gas-pipes, and, +by way of diversion, every now and then--usually when we were at +dinner, or wanting to look out of the window--a penny squeaking trumpet +would sound, then a lad would rush about and close all the shutters, +leaving the rooms in darkness and the inmates in suspense, till it +ended in a series of loud reports, accompanied by the distribution of +various specimens of granite in all directions. The authorities stopped +this nice performance when the Bishop was expected, as the mere chance +of "blasting" a Bishop would have been too painful for the Catholic +workmen's feelings, especially as they hoped for a benediction! As soon +as word arrived of the approach of "Monseigneur's" carriage, the curé +and chief dignitaries of the town, accompanied by a brass band, a +detachment of firemen, and a small regiment of women--decked in hoods +of blue or red or white--passed down the muddy street, bearing banners, +and a gilded canopy with white plumes. In a few moments they returned, +the band playing, the banners waving, the abbés and choir singing, and +in the centre of the throng, with two curés in front of him under the +canopy, came the new Bishop of Tarbes, resplendent in violet watered +silk, trimmed with beautiful lace, gloves of the same hue, with ring on +the outside of the right hand, which he perpetually kissed to the +admiring spectators. Miss Blunt, who was for once able to look out of +the window in safety, had a special one all to herself, and of course +she didn't mind any amount of explosions after that! + +Then we had other excitements, in the shape of wretched bands of +pilgrims, who, having a spare day, came up from Lourdes to see the +mountains. They invaded our salon, drank beer at eight o'clock in the +morning, and looked on the whole--in spite of their rosettes of black, +red, and yellow--as disreputable a lot of individuals as ever turned +religion into farce. Whether it was quite worth while suffering their +presence for the fun of seeing them mount, when starting for their +excursion, is open to question, but that it was a unique and comic +sight we were all agreed. The hotel garden, filled with guides, horses, +donkeys, and pilgrims; the delicate exhibition of ankles and feet +--such feet; the chairs to help the rotund damsels; the swarm of +natives round one especially fat woman, who got down after all; the +beaming face of the host, and the gloomy looks of a very fat man, just +the size for a small pilgrim tea party; not omitting the priest, whose +flowing robe nearly hid his _better half_ (viz. the donkey), made +a scene worthy of reproduction in the pages of 'Punch.' + +Although we strolled about a good deal, we found but little of interest +in the town itself; perhaps the most fascinating spot was the +Patisserie Suisse, in the Rue César, just below the baths of the same +name. The Hôtel de Ville is a fine building, and in summer perhaps, the +market, which stands in a street to the left of it, may present an +animated spectacle; but at this time it had the appearance of a large +monkey cage, with good strong iron railings in front, a few cabbages +and onions, and a small group of ancient and much-wizened native +specimens inside. + +We enjoyed our stay, however, in the midst of all the wild scenery +immensely, and think that but few people, if they came during the month +of June, would be prepared to differ from us. There are always some of +course, and before coming we had the pleasure of meeting two of them, +in the shape of a retired _grocer_ (or something of that kind in +the wholesale line) and his wife. They both declared that "Cauterets +was a vile 'ole, with 'igh streets and showy 'ouses, and that a +sensible 'uman being wouldn't stay there ha _h_our;" but it must +be mentioned in their favour, that the day on which they went was +rather damp, and there was only one grocer's shop open. If anyone +should be disposed to take their verdict as more conclusive than ours, +we can simply say, "Believe neither, but go and see for yourself." + +There is one other subject worth mentioning, in regard to which we had +a trifling diversion on the morning of our departure. The true breed of +Pyrenean dogs may be seen at Cauterets, and puppies obtained by any +people who wish to have a specimen of this fine race. The great secret +in rearing them is to avoid meat of any kind, and feed them on bread +with a little milk, or very thin soup. It is not the climate of +England, as has so often been alleged, which gives them consumption, +but the change to rich diet from the meagre fare which in the mountains +they always receive. + +The prices vary so much, that it is wisest for a stranger to enlist the +services of some trustworthy native to arrange the purchase, rather +than to do the bargaining himself. Pups from six weeks to three months +sell at from ten francs to one hundred, but a really fine specimen of +two and a half months ought to be bought for thirty-five francs. Dogs +of six months and upwards are expensive; as much as five hundred francs +being asked for them in the season. + +As Miss Blunt had a great desire to become the possessor of one of +these fluffy creatures, whenever any were seen inquiries were always +directed at once with regard to their parentage and price. Happening to +perceive a woolly tail disappearing behind a workshop in the Rue de la +Raillère a few hours before we had to start, we passed up a short entry +beside the aforementioned workshop, and asked to see the owner of the +dogs. In a few seconds he stood before us, a weather-beaten Frenchman, +who, as well as his clothes and his intellect, had seen better days--a +man about five feet six inches high, with face deeply lined; moustache, +goatee, and hair, all somewhat sparse and grizzled; a blue berret (the +native hat) in his hand; his shirt fastened by a single stud, barely +hiding what had been once a brawny chest; his loose trousers +half-covered by a leathern apron; and his two coats both threadbare, +and decorated with ribands in an equally worn-out state--such, bowing +and smiling as he approached, was the proprietor alike of the dogs and +the workshop. In spite of his poor appearance and idiosyncrasy--almost +approaching to madness--he had a certain dignity of manner which we +could not fail to notice. But he was very trying to deal with. Whenever +the price was the object of our inquiry, he began in the following +strain: "Very good, very good; which does Monsieur like? which does +Ma'm'selle prefer? The finest of course? Ah yes, the finest! Ah, very +good; take your choice, Monsieur; take which you please. The finest +dogs in the world! See! see! Monsieur" (and here he pointed to the +ribands on his breast), "I gained the prize at the Paris +Exhibition!--at the Paris Exhibition!--the exhibition open to all the +world--I, with the dogs I had brought down from the mountains and bred +myself, I gained the prize. Ha! ha! there were two Englishmen, two of +your fellow-countrymen, who thought they would beat me; but no, no, +Monsieur, it was to me you see (pointing to his breast again), +Monsieur, that they gave the prize." At last, however, he named fifty +francs as the price of either, which was very excessive, and when I +suggested ten--which was proportionately low--he proceeded to take off +his apron, roll up his coat-sleeves, and then, looking at me fiercely, +said, "So, Monsieur, you take me for a ten-franc man, do you? You think +to mock me, do you? I, who gained the prize at the Paris Exhibition, +the exhibition open to all the world, for the finest dogs, you think I +will sell my puppies at ten francs, Monsieur? No, Monsieur. I will not +sell you one for ten francs, and I do not wish to have anything more to +do with you." And then he, who five minutes before had been shaking my +hand with delight because I knew the owner of the parent dog (of his +puppies), with a lofty wave of the hand motioned me to depart. Before +doing so I soothed his offended dignity by a mellifluous explanation, +and he once more, but somewhat loftily, offered me his hand as I bade +him farewell. So, in spite of the pleasant diversion, Miss Blunt did +not get her dog! + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +LUZ AND BARÈGES. + +Rain at starting--A blighted view, yet lovely still--Pont d'Enfer +--Nature's voice--Sère and Esquiez--Luz--Its situation and status--An +old house--The ancient Church of the Templars--La Chapelle de St. +Roch--Pyrenean museum--Hôtel de l'Univers--Château de Ste. Marie--"The +Jackdaw's Causerie"--A new "Diet of Worms"--The new bathing +establishment--To Barèges--Pic d'Ayré--Esterre--Viella--Betpouey--Mill +conduits--Cercle des Etrangers--Opinion of the town--Grand +Etablissement--Promenade Horizontale--Hospice de Ste. Eugénie--"The Jay +of Barèges"--Wood anemones--Hepaticas--Valley of Lienz--Pic de +Lienz--Pic d'Ayré's summit--Pic de Néouville--Mountain rhododendrons +--_Anemone vernalis_. + + +Although we had beautiful weather all the while we remained in +Cauterets, directly we prepared to depart down came the rain, the mists +descended over the hills, and until we reached Pierrefitte we were +unable to obtain more than momentary glances at the beauty we had so +delighted in, before. Having crossed the Gave de Barèges by the Pont de +Villelongue, we were soon in the gorge, the rocks on the left of which +were blasted for five miles, when the road was constructed. +Notwithstanding that it still rained, the clouds were a little higher, +and our view consequently less contracted. + +[Illustration: THE GORGE NEAR PIERREFITTE.] + +The beauty of the scene was indisputable, and yet it was a beauty less +wild and majestic, and more unequal, than that of the Cauterets Gorge. +The heights on the left had frequently the barest and most +uninteresting appearance, when on the other side the eye was enchanted +with the varied spring tints on the trees massed together up the slopes +from the river, whose limpid green pools or foaming rapids gave such a +charm to the picture. The old road is seen in many parts, and several +of the old bridges, but the one about three and three-quarter miles +from Pierrefitte, at a point where the Gorge widens--known as the Pont +d'Enfer, and built partly of wood as well as stone--is by far the most +interesting. The scenery in its vicinity was particularly beautiful. +The wild quinces, with their white blossoms mingling with those of the +cherry and the light green of the maples, larches, elms, birches, and +limes; the bright fields above, and the ever-lovely river below; with +the massive crags and a babbling waterfall, rendered this part +especially--as well as several others in a lesser degree--enchanting. + +An enthusiast might easily write a book on the beauty of this gorge +alone, but in this age he would probably find few readers; of those who +did look at his book the greater number would find it probably too +highly-coloured, while the more enthusiastic ones would lament its lack +of warmth. Not wishing to incur the displeasure of either, we refrain +from saying a great deal about the splendour of this drive; knowing +that to a lover of the beautiful in Nature, all we have left unsaid +Nature will herself say ten times more impressively. + +After passing the monument in honour of the "Reine Hortense," which is +five miles from Pierrefitte, and crossing the Bridge de la Hiladère, we +soon caught sight of some villages on the left, where poplars--stiffly +prominent in all directions--spoil much of the picturesqueness of the +surroundings. The villages of Sère and Esquiez, that we saw when +nearing Luz, are ancient and worthy of a visit. Together they formed a +"chef-lieu" before the eleventh century, and the Roman church in each, +but especially that of Sère, is exceedingly interesting. A few moments, +during which we crossed a marble bridge over the Gave de Bastan, and, +bearing to the left, we were in Luz. + +Denominated by various titles, from a "poor village" to a "small rustic +town," Luz is by no means an insignificant place. It doubtless owes a +great deal to its situation in a pleasant hollow among the hills, with +a pleasant landscape on all sides, and its appearance is certainly more +quaint and rustic than poor. Undoubtedly there are several old houses, +some looking particularly unsafe; undoubtedly the streets are often +very narrow; and perhaps the inhabitants on the whole may be far from +wealthy; but with all this Luz is not a poor looking village. On a +market-day the streets in the vicinity of the old church, built--partly +in the 12th and finished between the 15th and 16th centuries--by the +Templars, assume a wonderfully gay appearance, and towards the back of +the church we noticed one old house whose balconies, if a trifle warped +and weather-beaten under the thin covering of white paint, were +nevertheless bright with pots of geraniums, wallflowers, and stocks. + +The church itself is most interesting, and was at one time very +formidable also. Surrounded by a high wall pierced with loopholes in a +double row, lies the graveyard, which is only a narrow strip between +the ramparts and the church, the body of which lies between two towers. +Under the higher of these, facing north, and built for defence with +loopholes and embrasures, is one of the church doors, which leads to +the high altar steps in a direct line from the entrance into the +churchyard. Further to the right, but also facing north, is the most +remarkable entrance, the inscriptions on the arch dating from the 12th +century. On the extreme right is a door leading into the chapel, built +in the 16th century, and dedicated to St. Roch. We found the inside +interesting, without possessing any very striking features. + +[Illustration] + +The effect from the main gallery is perhaps best, and the smaller ones +running along the sides have a weird and aged appearance. Near the +entrance to the church, low down, is shown what was once the door for +that wretched race of beings, the "Cagots." + +[Footnote: We found it difficult to obtain any reliable information +about these creatures. They seem to have led an existence like the +lepers in Palestine, being avoided and despised by the inhabitants +generally, and they appear to have been both diminutive and ugly.(See +St. Savin, p. 73).] + +The Chapelle de St. Roch, which we passed into from the gallery in the +main building, is the most striking of the two. The gallery and stairs +were in a very shaky condition, and two candle-stands near the latter +seemed to have been in their prime many generations ago. The vaulted +roof, with the curious wooden groins, and the ancient _bénitier_ +near the door, are worthy of inspection. Without scrambling up the +tower to the "Pyrenean Museum," but not forgetting to examine the old +bell-tower and its bells facing west, we walked down to the left and +joined the main road. + +The ancient Castle de Sainte Marie--a very interesting and historic +ruin--being in the vicinity, we followed the principal highway to the +right, and passing the much-recommended Hôtel de l'Univers, were soon +in the proximity of the château, which, standing alone on the summit of +a pointed hill, was charmingly conspicuous. The path, after winding up +the hill, leads to an entrance at the back, which is locked, the castle +being now the property of the Précepteur of Luz, who, however, is +always willing to accommodate strangers by allowing them to enter, as +well as to inspect his garden, and the very striking image of the +Virgin which he has had perched on the front walls. A great number of +jackdaws have taken up their quarters in the old towers, and as one of +them kept continually cawing as though anxious to be heard, we append +what we made out to be the meaning of his chatter (it is said they +never speak without _cause_), which we call + +"THE JACKDAW'S CAUSERIE." + +"THE JACKDAW'S CAUSERIE." + +Caw, caw! cried the jackdaw, and cawed again, +As he circled out of the ancient tower: +Caw, caw! and he circled thrice over the plain, +And cawed once more as he reached his bower. + +Caw, caw! I was born in this fortress old, +As old as the hills, some folks might say; +Five hundred centuries, caw, have rolled +Since first it stood in the light of day. + +Caw, caw! just to think I have built my nest +Where the Black Prince ruled in such royal state. +Caw, caw! I wonder if ever he guess'd +That this would in time be his castle's fate. + +Caw, caw! but I never could quite perceive +Why one tower is round and the other square. +If I'd been the prince, I can well believe +I'd have made the architect build a pair. + +Caw, caw! by-the-bye, there was old Coffite[1] +And Jean de Bourbon, that fought so well; +And 'tis said that the prince underwent defeat-- +At least my mother this tale would tell. + +Caw, caw! they've finished with siege and fight; +The castle's too old for that, of course; +They go in for piety on the right,[2] +And we caw away till our voice grows hoarse. + +Caw, caw! I'm a Catholic right sincere, +But somehow or other I cannot see +Why they put up the Virgin's statue[3] here-- +The place is as wrong as a place could be. + +Caw, caw! I must see how my youngsters look +In their quiet nursery 'mid the stones; +Next week they'll be able "to take their hook,"[4] +And--but there they go with their squeaking tones. + +Caw, caw! cried the jackdaw, the world is vain, +But I love to dwell in my ancient tower. +Caw, caw!--why the wretches want feeding again, +They've a "diet of worms" nearly every hour. +And he cawed as he flew to the nursery bower. + +[Footnote 1: It is said that Jean de Bourbon, Comte de Clermont, and +Auger Coffite of Luz, took this castle in 1404.] + +[Footnote 2: The author does not hold himself responsible for the +jackdaw's slang, which refers to the statue.] + +[Footnote 3: This statue is in honour of "Notre Dame de Lourdes."] + +[Footnote 4: Again the jackdaw indulges in slang!] + +Leaving the jackdaw to pursue his paternal duties, we descended again +to the town, and sheltered awhile from a shower under the balcony of +the new and gaudy-looking bathing establishment, that stands in the +outskirts, towards St. Sauveur. These baths, which are only opened +during the summer, are supplied with water from Barèges, whither we +were only waiting for a fine day to make an excursion. But fine days +just then were rather hard to find, so we contented ourselves with one +that did not look very ominous, and taking a good lunch with us, +started in a landau and four at ten o'clock. + +[Illustration: THE CASTLE OF STE. MARIE.] + +The road after leaving Luz follows the course of the Gave de Bastan, +skirting in turn the base of the Montaigu [Footnote: Not to be in any +way confounded with the Montaigu near Bigorre. The French mountain +vocabulary is so defective, they often call several heights by the same +name.] and that of the Pic d'Ayré, and, passing through the villages of +Esterre (2 miles), Viella (2-1/4 miles), and Betpouey (3-1/2 miles), +winds in steep zigzags up to Barèges (4064 ft.). + +This valley, after what we had seen, did not give us much pleasure; its +appearance on the whole being sterile, though after leaving Luz as far +as Esterre, the brightness of the fields and trees, and the splashing +of the water overflowing the miniature mill conduits, made a pleasant +landscape. + +The actual distance from Luz to Barèges is barely four miles, and yet +so great is the height of the latter (1600 ft. above Luz) that it was +nearly one o'clock when we pulled up at the Cercle des Etrangers--the +only specimen of a hotel or café open--for our lunch. + +After a pleasant meal we made a move to inspect the town and its +environs, and were not long in forming an opinion, at any rate, on the +former, which we think most visitors at this season of the year would +be inclined to endorse. One long ascending street lined with houses all +shut up, occasional breaks where a narrow alley or the roads to the +hospitals and promenades branched off, the bathing establishments under +much-needed repair, the dirty-looking river dashing down behind, on the +left; the beech boughs clad in dead leaves rustling on the slopes, in +the opposite direction; and a few natives here and there, very untidy +and sleepy-looking, as though with difficulty awaking from the +"dormouse" state, complete the picture of Barèges, which we need hardly +add is in itself a most desolate and dreary-looking place. In +mid-summer, with the sun shining and the trees in full leaf, an +improvement in the scene would be noticeable; but very few, except +invalids specially recommended for a course of the waters, are at +anytime likely to stay there more than a few hours. + +[Illustration: BARÈGES.] + +We took the road leading up, to the right of the "Grand Etablissement," +to the Promenade Horizontale, the great summer rendezvous, and passing +the "Hospice de Ste. Eugénie" began the ascent up the easy zigzags of +the "Allée Verte." We had not made much progress when we startled, from +what was doubtless a contemplative mood, a very fine jay. He did not +seem to like the disturbance at all, but kept flying from branch to +branch in the vicinity, repeatedly uttering his guttural cries. + +As the tenor of his thoughts--uttered in rather a shrill treble--seemed +to bear considerably on topics of general interest, in spite of the +apparent selfishness that was the key-note of the whole, we think it +expedient to let posterity enjoy the enlightenment we received from + +"THE JAY OF BARÈGES." + + Lawks a mussy! and shiver my feathers! + Why this is a wonderful sight; + In spite of my earnest endeavours, + I can't quite get over my fright. + + 'Tis so long since the strangers departed, + They ne'er would return, I had thought; + So no shame at their coming I started, + Though perchance I felt worse than I ought. + + Still to think through the days cold and lonely + I've wandered about at my will, + With no one to chase me, and only + The need to prevent getting chill. + + Well, I say--when I think of the quiet + And rest that is now at its close-- + I have doubts of enduring the riot + After such a long time of repose. + + It is not that I hate to see pleasure, + It is not that the world I detest; + But I like to have comfort and leisure, + And not to be teased and oppress'd. + + I don't mind the smell from the fountains, + --Though a rotten-egg scent is not sweet-- + For I always can fly to the mountains + And seek some umbrageous retreat. + + Then the season for shooting is over, + So the sportsmen[1] will leave me alone, + And I'll pose as a Go(u)ld Jay in clover, + Avoiding a _dollar_ous tone. + + To my doctor, perhaps, 'twould be better + The final decision to leave; + And I'll follow his choice to the letter, + He's a bird I can always believe. + + That reminds me 'tis time for my dinner, + And as I don't wish it to wait, + As sure as I'm saint and no sinner, + I'll be off at my very best rate. + +[Footnote 1: The jay, with all its sophistry, did not apparently know +that French sportsmen only kill what they can eat, and therefore its +fears would in any case have been groundless.] + +And with a concluding chuckle the bright bird disappeared. We were by +this time beyond the "Forest Administration" hut, and close upon the +snow, which lay in narrow but deep drifts among the trees, the wood +anemones and fine hepaticas growing in groups close by. + +As we gradually progressed, the snow occupied the greater part of the +way, and we were forced to betake ourselves to the extreme edge; and +when at last we emerged into the Vallée de Lienz, trees and branches +had to be scrambled over to avoid a wetting, although we were obliged +to cross one or two drifts after all. Getting clear of the trees, we +came in full view of the imposing Pic de Lienz (7501 ft.) on the left, +and the rounded summit of the Pic d'Ayré (7931 ft.). Passing the two +cabins constructed among the rocks in the open, we crossed the swift +brook and began the ascent of the inferior but well-wooded hill below +the Pic de Lienz. There is no proper path up to this Pic (as to most +others), and the grass is rather bad for walking; but the views up the +valley to the mighty Pic de Néouville (10,146 ft.), and the whole range +behind the Pic d'Ayré, are very grand. We only went to the bend just +before the summit of the Col, resting awhile among a huge pile of +boulders, brightened by bushes of the mountain rhododendron, before +commencing to descend. A fine specimen of the rather rare _Anemone +vernalis_ was a prize that fell to us as we carefully balanced +ourselves on the slippery tufts which so often, carrying the feet along +at an increased speed, cause the owner to find himself rather +unpleasantly acquainted with mother earth. However, we reached the huts +again in safety, and made considerably shorter cuts on our way back to +the town, encountering a solitary sheep with a very young lamb at one +of our sharp turns. + +We arrived at the café just in time for tea, and then the horses were +put in and we rattled back, having, in spite of the barrenness of +Barèges, spent a very pleasant day. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +ST. SAUVEUR. + +Pont de Pescadère--Sassis--Gave de Gavarnie--St. Sauveur--Hotel de +France--Pont Napoléon--Napoleon's pillar--Bee orchids--Chapel of +Solferino--The view from thence--Ne'er a hermit but for gold--Luz +Cemetery--Luz Post Office--Short cuts--Pharmacie Claverie--Jardin à +l'Anglaise--Ascent of Pic de Bergons--Villenave--The shepherds' +huts--Lunch--Snow, its use and abuse--On foot--"Excelsior"--Dangerous +footing--The last crest but one--The view--Gavarnie and Argelès in +sight--A lazy guide--A "fast" bit--Mountain flowers--Mr. Sydney to the +fore--A short walk and a good view--To Sazos and Grust--The bathing +establishments--Sazos: the old church--The belfry--Chiming +extraordinary--Various promenades--Gems of hill and vale. + + +At the bridge known as the Pont de Pescadère the road from Pierrefitte +forks; the branch to the left leads to Luz, while the road to St. +Sauveur branches off to the right, and passes through the village of +Sassis, above which is the more important one of Sazos. Then, keeping +to the riverside till within half a mile of the town, it throws out a +branch over the Gave de Gavarnie to Luz, and bending in the opposite +direction, winds steeply past the baths to the hotels. + +Like many of the villages in Japan, and especially along the great +Nakasendo, St. Sauveur possesses one single street. The resemblance +continues further with the fine scenery, but there it ends. The look of +the houses and the comfort of the Hôtel de France find, alas! no +parallel yet in the interior of that wonderful country. + +[Illustration: ST. SAUVEUR.] + +We came to St. Sauveur direct without stopping at Luz, but as the +latter is the larger town--in fact the mainstay of the former, and also +the nearer to Pierrefitte--we have given it precedence. For situation +and all other qualifications, except as a residence in winter, St. +Sauveur easily bears away the palm. The morning after our arrival, when +the sun was shining brightly, we walked up through the remainder of the +diminutive town to the Pont Napoléon, one of the most remarkable +bridges in the Pyrenees. The bridge itself is 216 feet above the river, +and sixty-nine feet wide; but it is not so much the construction +--though that is well carried out--as the position, which +especially attracts on a lovely spring morning. The river, of a +beautiful light green tint, wandering down the valley towards +Pierrefitte, the trees with varied foliage crowding the slopes above, +the glimpse of Saint Sauveur with its church, and the hills with the +snowpeaks beyond, on either side--made such a glorious _ensemble_ +as we were not slow to appreciate. + +[Illustration: PONT NAPOLÉON, ST. SAUVEUR.] + +But this was not all--nor nearly all--for not only had we the view of +the grand rocky gorge from which the river issues above, but we could +also take the easy gradient down to the riverside itself, which leads +from the near side of the bridge, as well as survey the loveliness from +the terrace at the base of the arch, on the side beyond. Having crossed +this fine piece of engineering, and passed the pillar surmounted by an +eagle erected in honour of Napoleon III. and the Empress Eugénie, we +found the road led at right angles in both directions. The one to the +right, to Gavarnie, we hoped to take thither later; the one to the +left, leading to Luz, we followed there and then. After curving once or +twice within view of the bridge, it bifurcates, forming an upper and a +lower route, both of which lead to Luz, if desired. The lower, which is +the direct route from Gavarnie to Luz, we abstained from taking, +preferring the upper road to the right, which leads past fields +resplendent with flowers (among which the "bee" orchid is noticeable), +to the chapel of Solferino. + +The view from the hill on which the chapel is built is an excellent +one. Looking towards Luz, several small villages may be seen up the +Barèges valley, with the Pic de Mont Aigu, and the Pic d'Ayré (7931 +feet) on the right, and--immediately over against the town--the Pic de +Néré on the left. Looking towards Pierrefitte, other small villages, +and the whole of the Luz valley; on the left, St. Sauveur, and, above +the almost indistinguishable village of Sassis, the Col de Riou, with +the Pic de Viscos beyond. Looking towards the Pont Napoléon, the Pic de +Bergons (6792 ft.) towers up on the left, and on the right may be +easily noted the toothed Pic du Lac Grand the Col d'Aubiste, and the +loftier Pic (8863 ft.) of the same name, besides a glimpse of pastures +and foaming cascades as well. There is very little in the chapel itself +except its history and its cold atmosphere. It is supposed to be an +exact copy of the ancient Hermitage of St. Peter, which formerly stood +on the same spot. The bones of the last good man, for whom "gaieties +had no attraction whatever," and who consequently shut himself up for +"years and years" in the dismal building, were collected by Napoleon +III.'s command, and buried under the statue erected in front. There is +a woman that calls herself the guardian (not angel) of the place, and +demands a small gratuity in exchange for any amount of unnecessary +talking; judging by her appearance, we decided she was _not_ a +hermit nor a particularly small eater either, though her stature was +decidedly diminutive. Two tracks lead from this hill to Luz. One +winding down on the left forms the branch route to St. Sauveur, the +other, to the right--which we took--passes the cemetery, and leaving +the new church in the same direction, leads to the back of the ancient +fane of the Templars, through the town. + +After transacting a little business at the post-office (there is none +at St. Sauveur except in the season), which stands in one of the +principal streets traversed on the route to Barèges, we returned to St. +Sauveur by another way. The ordinary short cut from Luz to St. Sauveur +crosses the bridge over the Gave leaving the Gavarnie road on the left, +and turning sharply up a short distance beyond the river, joins the +high road above the "Pharmacie Clavarie," near an ornamental pillar. +We, however, bore up the Gavarnie road till, reaching a cottage, we +pursued the narrow path obviously conducting to the river, over which a +wooden bridge--whence a pretty view can be obtained,--leads to the +Jardin à l'Anglaise. This garden, much frequented during the summer +months, brought us in turn, by means of zigzags and steps, close to our +hotel, and though it may be slightly longer than the "short cut," we +certainly found it prettier and more agreeable. + +There is one excursion from St. Sauveur, which is not very difficult +nor laborious, and which well repays the certain amount of exertion +that is at all times associated with ascents. This is the ascent of the +Pic de Bergons. Although we could tell before we started that the snow +would prevent us from reaching the summit, we nevertheless had hopes of +arriving very near it; and finding a beautiful day, as it were, staring +us in the face, we ordered round the horses and a somewhat aged guide, +and were in motion by ten o'clock. Reaching the further end of the Pont +Napoléon, we found the path striking off immediately before us, and the +work began. The gradient for several minutes rose rather sharply, and +as the road was anything but a pleasant or even one, the labour for the +horses was considerable; but they went very willingly, until, at our +arrival at a couple of cottages, we halted to give them a few minutes' +rest. + +Until then we had been winding up the face of the hill, but after +leaving the cottages, the track bearing round to the side brought us +above Luz, over which and the whole valley we had a splendid view. Not +far from this point, the path from Luz, _viâ_ Villenave, joined +in, but no improvement in the general unevenness and stoniness of it +was effected. With a barren gorge on our left, and the green pastures +with the snow-peaks of Bugaret and Maucapéra towering behind them, +straight before us, we followed the disagreeable zigzags, our horses +always on the very edge, as though courting our overthrow, till, +finding on reaching the "cabanes" some shepherds kindly and well +disposed, we repaired to the shelter that their cow-house wall +afforded, to eat our lunch. The meal was a success, as such meals, when +the victuals are good and the appetites hearty, usually are, and the +_vin ordinaire_, cooled to a pleasant extent with snow from a +neighbouring drift, tasted like nectar. But the same snow which was so +delightful in the claret, interfered sadly with our locomotion, and +having finished our luncheon, we had next to dispose of our horses, and +commence the rest of the ascent on foot. Striking straight up from the +hut, we soon attained a narrow track winding up the wooded hill to the +left, and without much difficulty or exertion, found ourselves within +view of St. Sauveur, and a great part of the mountains and valleys. +However, we were yet some way from the summit, or even the highest +attainable point (the summit being unattainable on account of snow), so +we pulled ourselves into form, and whispering to one another to have +"courage," we moved upwards again. A small rocky backbone was next +attained, but still the higher crests remained, and seemed to say, +"Excelsior." The guide got lazy, and preferred to study a little +geology to mounting any higher, so we left him to pursue his researches +and strode on. Between the next point, gained after some little work, +and the last crête below the actual summit, several banks of snow lay, +and rendered progress difficult. In two places a sharp decline, with no +chance of clutching anything in case of falling, presented itself to +dull our hopes, but by dint of using the alpenstocks well, and making +deep tracks in the semi-melting snow, we reached the desired crest, +with nothing but the white and inaccessible summit above. The view was +a very fine one, and fully justified all expectations, although our +lazy guide was effectually shut out from our gaze. The miniature town +of St. Sauveur looked like a tiny model, with every accessory that +could add to its charming position. To the left, high above us, the +mighty Barbe de Bouch (9624 ft.) stood out just below the clouds, in +which the still loftier and very stony Pic d'Ardiden (9804 ft.) was +partially hidden. Further in the same direction the familiar forms of +the Pics d'Aubiste and Litouèse, and further yet, the Tour and Casque +of the Gavarnie Cirque, stood out as snowy and as clear as the most +eager sightseer could wish. Over the town itself the Pic du Lacgrand, +and down the valley to the right, the Col de Riou and the Pic de +Viscos, were plainly visible; while the town of Argelès and the hills +beyond it, required no glass to point out their position at the end of +the splendid gorge. Over against Luz the Col d'Arbéousse and the Pic de +Néré (7880 ft.); with the Pic Bugaret (8859 ft.), the Maucapéra (8893 +ft.), and the massive Mont Arrouye (10,299 ft.), facing them, above the +hut where we had lunched, added their attractions to swell the beauty +of our view. + +When we thought we had really taken in all that we could, we did not +stay on our lofty perch much longer, fearing the result of our guide's +geological researches; however, we found him still fairly well, and +very little less lazy, so took him for a little jolting down a rather +"fast" bit, which not only woke him up, but brought us quickly down to +our shepherd's hut again. Partly riding and partly walking, the rest of +the descent was successfully accomplished, including the gathering of +gentians, bee orchids, mountain violets, and both _Polygalae_; +[Footnote: _Polygala rosea_ and _P. amara._] while Mr. Sydney +triumphed in the very laudable effort of showing the lazy guide how +things could be managed, by arriving at the foot of the mountain some +twenty minutes before him. A very short trot brought us to the hotel in +time for some half-past five tea, having taken seven and a half hours +over our trip, including the hour spent for lunch. + +Between the Hôtel de France and the Pont Napoléon a narrow path strikes +up to the right, almost opposite a large white house a short distance +beyond the church; this we found a very pleasant quarter of an hour's +walk, leading by an easy gradient to a good point of view. Box plants, +with their bright leaves here and there changing into a rich red, lined +the way, and many flowers, including gentians, added their charm. From +the rock at which we terminated our walks, a fine view of the Pic de +Bergons, two cascades, the gorge towards Gavarnie and St. Sauveur, the +Pont Napoléon, and a small defile on the immediate right, was our +reward. + +Another pleasant promenade and not a very long one, which we much +enjoyed, was to the villages of Sazos and Grust, in the direction of +the ascent of the Col de Riou and the Pic de Viscos. We followed the +high road down through the town, passing in turn the Roman-like and +commodious baths, the path leading to the Hontalade establishment on +the left, and the Pharmacie Claverie on the right; and just before the +branch route from Luz joins in, took the left track up the side of the +hill. Pretty views of the different valleys unfolded to our gaze as we +continued on our way, while a splendid vista of villages lay before us +when we reached the platform space on which an iron cross is erected, a +short way below Sazos. The village itself, as well as that of Grust, +which lies within easy distance above it, is a quaint, old-fashioned +place. The church is the chief attraction; in fact, immediately Miss +Blunt found herself within the ancient exterior portal, she demanded +paper and pencil, and although all the paper forthcoming was the back +of an envelope and a telegraph form, managed to turn out an efficient +representation of the old Roman fane. In exploring it afterwards at our +leisure, we were struck by several peculiarities which produced mingled +feelings. Inside the doorway, two curious flights of steps lead to the +narrow galleries and the belfry, the final flight being totally devoid +of either "sweetness" or light. Having examined the bells and heard the +clock strike three, we began the descent. In the darkness we certainly +did clutch a vertical rope, but could that simple act--we ask in a +whisper--have had such an unusual effect as causing the clock to repeat +its striking? For, whether or not, before we reached the ground, the +three strokes rang out again. The carving over the altar is good, and +the general effect of the whole church is likewise; but the supposed +model of the grotto at Lourdes, and the awful painting in the side +altar on the left, certainly do not add to its beauty. + +The children regarded us with inquisitive looks as we came away, but +seemed to wish to keep at a safe distance. Whether the double striking +of the clock had had a peculiar effect on them we did not, however, +wait to inquire, but after taking a drink at the fountain, proceeded on +our homeward way. + +Any one making a lengthened stay can find out plenty of similarly +enjoyable walks; in fact, one of St. Sauveur's chief charms lies in its +favourable situation for such pursuits. The neighbourhood is very rich +in flora, small jonquils, daffodils, oxslips, hyacinths, violets, +_polygala, potentilla_, anemones, _Ramondia pyrenaïca, Primula +farinosa,_ large and small gentians, _linaria,_ and bee orchids +being among the easiest to find. + +Before we started on the great drive to Luchon, we successfully +accomplished a delightful day's outing to Gavarnie, but as it is full +of interest and majesty, we give it a chapter to itself. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +GAVARNIE. + +A "falling glass"--The wonderful echo--Cascade Lassariou--Sia and its +bridge--Pont de Desdouroucat--"Changing scenes"--Bugaret torrent--The +Piméné--Bué--Gèdre--Brêche de Roland in the distance--The +"Grotto"--Scenery at fivepence per head--Daffodils--Lofty +summits--Cascade d'Arroudet--Chaos--Valley of the "Ten Thousand Rocks," +Amoy--A dirty avalanche--The Sugar-loaf--Travellers' troubles +--Importunate females--Hôtel des Voyageurs--Poc--Guide or no +guide--Chute de Lapaca--The guardian summits of the Cirque--Cascade du +Marboré--Chandelles du Marboré--The Cirque--Its marvellous +beauty--Reluctantly returning--"The Guide's Auction"--"Two women +enough for a market, and three for a fair"--A Yankee tale--Sketching +and flowers--Tempers and appetites. + + +There is no excursion from Luz or St. Sauveur for which it is so +necessary to have a fine day, or which is so wonderfully unique, as +that to the Cirque of Gavarnie. We were forced to wait several days; +the barometer always, stupidly enough, wanting to fall, until on the +third day of the moon it slowly began to rise, and gave us hopes for a +start on the following morning. The following morning arrived, and with +it a heavy fall of snow, decking the hills quite low down with a white +mantle, and gloomily screening the view. + +However, about nine o'clock, the sun burst forth, the clouds rose, the +blue sky appeared, and we felt that our opportunity had come. The lunch +and the landau, with four horses, were ordered for ten o'clock, and at +10.15 we were on our way. Through the town, past the church and over +the fine Pont Napoléon we went, our hearts--eager to appreciate +--finding no lack of food. + +Keeping along the base of the Pic de Bergons, with the Pic du Lac Grand +rivalling it on the other side of the defile, we soon sighted the chasm +and cascade of Rioumaou on our left, and reached the Pas de l'Echelle. +At 1 metre 50 centimetres, or 43/4 feet, from the extremity of the +ornamental facing which marks the place, we pulled up, to try the +magnificent echo, and were in no way disappointed. Our voices came back +particularly clearly, but from the coach-box the sound was stronger. On +ahead again, still by the base of the Pic de Bergons, with the mighty +Col and Pic d'Aubiste (8863 ft.) majestic across the river; till, at +the foot of the Pic, where the sparkling Cascade de Lassariou comes +tumbling down, the wretched hamlet of Sia, with its "quatre moulins" +and very fine bridge, broke into view. Traversing the Pont de +Sia--distant about three miles from Luz and built when the new road was +made two years ago--we kept the right side of the Gave, and, with the +Pic de Litouèse towering above us, reached the Pont de Desdouroucat (4 +3/8 miles), and again passed to the opposite bank, leaving the remains +of the old route on the side whence we came. The sky was clearing more +and more, and before us, over Gavarnie, it was one pure expanse of +blue. The gorge was very wild, but with a wildness of piled-up crags +and blackened sides that the beautiful winding river and the spring +tints helped to beautify and subdue. Presently the massive Brada, up +the grand Gorge de Bacheviron, came in sight on our left, and as we +passed the insignificant hamlet of Pragnères (43/4 miles), where the +torrent of Bugaret dashes down into the Gave, the Brada looked more +massive still. Thus it continued all along the route, every bend of the +road bringing something new--whether a cascade, a valley, or a lofty +peak, always something to claim attention and praise. At such a bend, +shortly after quitting Pragnères, the great snow-crowned Piméné (9193 +ft.) seemed to bar the way; while at another, the hamlet of Bué and the +Col de Bué appeared on the right, and at another, again, Mont Ferrat +(10,575 ft.), up the Héas valley on the left. Not very much further, +when bending into Gèdre, we obtained a splendid glimpse of La Tour and +La Casque du Marboré and the Brêche de Roland. Gèdre (8 miles), like +all the rest of the villages or hamlets in the vicinity, is a +miserable, poverty-stricken-looking place, but with picturesque +surroundings. It is a good centre for numerous excursions--notably that +to the Cirque de Troumouse--and possesses an excellent botanist as +well as a celebrated grotto. + +[Footnote: The grotto's notoriety is gained, perhaps, by its imposture; +it is in reality no grotto, but a very pretty bit of scenery +nevertheless, on a fine day.] + +Stopping at the house by the bridge, we were escorted by the good woman +into her garden and down some steps to a platform, whence the so-called +grotto was to be surveyed. It is a very picturesque spot. The lofty +walls of perpendicular rock, the overhanging bushes and flowers, the +trees above, the field beyond, and the blue water of the Gave de Héas +foaming beneath, are charming enough, with the aid of rays of sunlight, +to make the spot famous, and the good woman chuckle as she pockets the +half-franc per head. + +[Illustration: THE VILLAGE OF GÈDRE.] + +Starting again, we commenced the zigzag ascent past the church--the +road winding among fields golden with daffodils, mingling here and +there with the lovely blue of the gentians and the pink _Primula +farinosa_--towards the base of the Coumelie, the mule-path to the +Cirque de Troumouse leading through a field above us, as we reached the +zigzag's top. Still gently ascending round the foot of the Coumelie, +the pointed summit of the lofty Taillon (10,323 ft.) came into view +ahead, with the grandiose Campbieil (10,418 ft.) up the Héas valley; +and the Pic de Saugué immediately above on the right, from whose height +the splendid Cascade d'Arroudet, dashing past the shepherds' cottages, +launches its foaming showers into the river below. A few more graceful +curvings of the road and we entered the region so aptly termed "Chaos." +Attributed to an earthquake at the end of the fourteenth century, +rightly or wrongly, the fact nevertheless remains that one of the huge +buttresses of the Coumelie became detached from the main summit, and +dashed down in enormous blocks to the valley below. There they lie, the +road passing between, in the wildest and most indescribable confusion. +Here a heap piled one above another, there a mighty shoulder split in +twain by a conical fragment which rests in the breach that it made; +some towering above the road, others blocking the river below, a few +isolated and many half-buried; but all combining to form as wild and +wonderful a chaos as the eye could wish to gaze on, but which the pen +must fail to describe. Far away on the shores of China, at the port of +Amoy, is another scene which, though it must yield the palm to this, is +nevertheless one of a similarly wild nature. The "Valley of the Ten +Thousand Rocks," as the spot is called, in the midst of which stands a +joss-house (or temple), may be reached in a pleasant walk from the +harbour of Amoy, by way of the wonderful Rocking Stone, and along paths +lined with aloes and cacti. There the grass grows between the confusion +of boulders, and the Chinamen's incense ascends to the blue sky; but +these points of difference from the Chaos of Gavarnie, though tending +to subdue part of the barren wildness, nevertheless still leave a +resemblance between the two scenes that is worthy of record. + +[Illustration] + +Leaving this "boulder" region behind us, we passed through a huge +avalanche that stood in frozen filthiness far above the carriage on +each side of the road, while immediately over us on the left rose the +mountain from which it had come--rightly named the Sugar-loaf--and +opposite, on the right, the serrated summit of the Soum de Secugnac +(8442 ft.). + +At this point one of the many nuisances which ought to be classed under +the head of "Travellers' Troubles," commenced. In the distance, but +coming swiftly towards us, or rather as swiftly as a broken-winded, +raw-boned, jolting apology-for-a-horse would allow, was _a_ woman, +and alas! in her train were several others; a few on or with donkeys, +but more on foot. In vain we told them that we would engage no donkeys +at all, and no horses till we reached our destination; in vain we bade +them allow us to "pursue the even tenor of our way" in peace, and hush +their high soprano tones. It was one perpetual babble in praise of +their horses, their donkeys, and their capabilities as guides, with the +constant repetition of the names of the surrounding peaks, which we +already knew perfectly well. When we reached the gorge which opens up +on the right, as though the earth had been split by some mighty shock, +and through which the majestic Vignemale (10,821 ft.) was perfectly +visible, the storm of voices directing our attention to the sight was +as loud as it was unsolicited. But happily we were then close to +Gavarnie, and crossing the bridge with a momentary glimpse at the +Cirque, we drew up at the door of the Hôtel des Voyageurs. + +After lunching and engaging our steeds, with an intelligent guide, who +answered to the euphonious name of "Poc," we left the greatly +disappointed donkey women still making a terrible clamour, and started +for the Cirque. + +As far as finding out the proper route goes, and that is a long way, no +guide whatever is required, but in order to learn the names of the +various peaks and other interesting facts, it is distinctly necessary +to have one, unless the traveller possesses a very elaborate plan of +the vicinity. + +Leaving the new bridge to the left, as well as a very ancient one, and +the plashing fall known as the "Chute de Lapaca," we turned round in +the opposite direction, and passing the "Hôtel de la Cascade" and a +wooden hut, again turned to the left, down what, though an execrable +road, led, nevertheless, to the object of our desires. At this turn the +Pic d'Aspé reared above us on the right, succeeded by barren hills +covered with loose stones, but as we proceeded, the famous central +excursion--the Piméné (9193 ft.)--came in sight on the opposite side, +followed by the Brêche d'Allanz, the Pic Rouge de Pailla (9107 ft.), +Pic d'Astazou (10,106 ft.), the Cylindre (10,916 ft), and even the +Marboré (9964 ft.) itself. + +Between the Marboré and the Epaule de Marboré (10673 ft.), nearer the +centre of the Cirque, the celebrated Cascade du Marboré, (1380 ft. in +height) dashes during the warmer months. The curious summits known as +La Tour (9902 ft.) and La Casque (9862 ft.), almost equidistant from +the centre of the Cirque, on opposite sides, stood clearly before us, +with the snow lying below each in the serrated shapes which give rise +to the term "Chandelles du Marboré." The Brêche de Roland was--as it +always is from this view--invisible, hidden behind the Pic de Sarradets +(8993 ft.); but the Fausse Brêche beyond, and more to the right the +magnificent Taillon (10,323 ft.), and the Pic de Gabiétou, with the +Port de Gavarnie--a peculiar shoulder-like rock, below them +both--filled up the semicircle in all its wonderful entirety. When at +last we reached the point whence the whole can be viewed to most +advantage, we did not require the assertion of the guide that we were +in enjoyment of one of the best days of the year, to increase our +admiration and delight. + +The amphitheatre, standing before us like the ruins of some mighty +arena, in which the throngs of eager men and women and the blood of the +dying gladiator had long given place to the purifying snow; the summits +around uplifted towards the blue sky; the cascade, no longer dashing as +full of life and hope, but frozen in its course and hanging in icicles +between the rocks; the few uncovered crags scattered here and there, +relieving the dazzling whiteness of the "glace éternelle"; the sparse +trees down the outer slopes struggling to free themselves from their +winter cloak; the cloud of frost scintillating in the sunlight as a +mass of loosened snow rushed into the depths below;--was not such a +scene as this, presented to our gaze in unveiled splendour, more than +sufficient to bewilder in the intensity of its majesty and loveliness? + +Yet even this was not all. The silence, the solemn and perfect silence, +that reigned over the whole, only broken by the dull sound of the +falling avalanche or the shrill voice of the restless crow, was so +evident and so powerful, and combined so impressively with the +marvellous beauty of the surroundings, that the heart could not fail to +recognise the sublimity of Nature and the omnipotence of Nature's God! + +We stayed there for a long time, and with great reluctance turned our +horses' heads from the scene; while even when we had done so, we +stopped at nearly every bend of the road for another look. + +[Illustration: THE CIRQUE OF GAVARNIE (IN SUMMER).] + +The exact distance from the hotel to the extreme end of the Cirque is +calculated at 33/4 miles, but we traversed little more than two-thirds +of that distance, on account of the depth of the avalanches, which were +then melting far too quickly to allow of dry walking any further. + +Arriving again at the hotel, the chatter of the women over some new +arrivals was as deafening as ever. Our good guide Poc considered it was +not to be borne any longer, so having counted the women and their +asses, he cleared a space in preparation for a mock sale at which they +were all to be put up, and having got us in front as make-believe +purchasers, proceeded with the business, which we called + + "THE GUIDE'S AUCTION." + + This way, sirs, this way! Will you please to walk up? + The auction I'm ready to start: + I'm instructed to sell all these valuable lots, + And the bidding I hope will be smart. + + You see by the catalogue, forty clear lots-- + Thirty women; ten asses; some small. + To proceed then, we'll take them, sirs, just as they are, + Say forty fine donkeys in all. + + They've plenty of sinew, and as to their voice, + I think about that you well know. + The first lot then, gents; shall we say fifteen francs? + Well then, ten; but that's rather too low. + + In our country for ladies we've heaps of respect, + But we've fully enough and to spare; + And we know that "two women a market will make, + And that three are enough for a fair."[1] + + + * * * * * + + Now then, gents, please be sharp! No advance? No advance? + The candle[2] burns fast to the end. + Ten francs for this wonderful native--ten francs! + Why, surely, that's nothing to spend! + + No bidding? Good gracious! Why what shall I do + To oblige you? I'll class them as one: + Now what do you say for the whole forty lots? + Make a bid, sirs, I want to have done. + + Fifty francs for the lot; see the candle's nigh out: + Fifty francs, take them all as they rise. + What! No one will buy them? Alas! I must say + You're all most uncommonly wise. + + They clamour and chatter the whole of the day, + I believe they snore loudly at night; + Oh, if only a Barnum would take them away, + You don't know how I'd dance with delight! + +[Footnote 1: His exact words were, "Dans mon pays, monsieur, nous +disons qu'il faut trois femmes pour faire une foire, et deux pour un +marché."] + +[Footnote 2: Alluding to the custom in France of burning bits of candle +to denote the time in which the bidding may proceed; usually when the +third piece goes out the bidding for the special lot is finished, and +the next is proceeded with.] + +This last verse was very easy to understand, as the women are always +anxious to obtain occupation for a lesser remuneration[1] than the +qualified guides, who naturally dislike this interference between them +and their earnings, although no bad feeling really exists on the +matter. + +[Footnote 1: There is a good tale told, _à propos_ of this, of a +gentleman in San Francisco who wanted some wood chopped. An American +offered to do it for a dollar, but a Chinaman asked only half. The +gentleman, thinking it best to help his own countryman, gave the Yankee +the job; but happening to pass the yard during the day, he found the +Chinaman busily at work. "Hullo!" cried he, "I didn't give the job to +you. Who told you to cut this wood?" "Melican man" (American man), +responded the pigtailer. "And how much is he paying you?" "Hap dollar," +replied the Celestial. And the swell went away resolved never to help +his countryman again.] + +After an enjoyable kettledrum, the tea being our own and made under +personal supervision, Miss Blunt perched herself on a hillock to +sketch, and Mr. Sydney explored the neighbourhood for flowers, of which +gentians were the principal object of his search. Both having in a +certain degree attained their ends, we started again at half-past four, +and after a pleasant drive, which lasted two hours instead of +three--the time occupied in coming--we reached our quarters in the best +of tempers and not with the worst of appetites. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +FROM LUZ AND ST. SAUVEUR TO BAGNÈRES DE LUCHON. + +A smiling valley--Lourdes again--The chapel in the crypt--St. Peter's +statue--Burnished toes--Solemn quietude--Preparing for the great +pilgrimage--"Ornamented" crosses--Mr. Sydney's new vocation, "guide, +philosopher, and friend"--Bigorre again--An open-air concert +--Harmonious echoes--Paying through the nose--The fête at +Payole--Sport à la française--Costumes--The view from the Col d'Aspin-- +Arreau--Quaint houses--La Chapelle de St. Exupère--A whining +"gardien"--Eglise de Notre Dame--The River Neste--Hôtel de +France--Bordères--Avajan--Louderville--Oxslips and cowslips--Wild +narcissus--Col de Peyresourde--The view--Garin--Cazaux--St. +Aventin--Lovely avenues--Our destination. + + +With a morning as lovely as the day of our arrival had been dreary, we +left at 9.15 for Bagnères de Bigorre, the first part of our long drive. +The valley, more fully clothed than it was a week ago, looked so fresh +in the warm sunlight, with the river winding along, that we felt very +loath to leave. The gorge below, all the way to Pierrefitte, added its +share of beauty, and the graceful white heath growing up its sides +loaded the air with a sweet scent. The wide expanse of the Argelès +valley, with the busy farmers ploughing, sowing, or cutting the heavy +clover crop; the lazy oxen ever patiently plodding beneath their heavy +burdens; the Château de Beaucens--where the orchids grow--perched up on +the hillside; the surrounding peaks throwing off their snowy garb; and +the beautiful young leaves and tints, everywhere mingling with the +brightness of the flowers blooming on the slopes or amid the waving +grasses, made a scene as picturesque as it was charming. + +Compared with the scenery so far, the remainder of the drive to +Lourdes, which we reached in three hours from the time of starting, +though full of many pleasant corners in which the river heightened the +effect, was nevertheless not so fine; but Lourdes itself looked more +attractive than on our former visit. After lunch, while the horses were +resting, we drove in a local milord [Footnote: A kind of victoria.] to +the church, as we had omitted before to visit the chapel built in the +crypt underneath. In the entrance is the fine bronze statue of St Peter +clasping the key, similar to the one in Rome both in size and in the +highly-burnished appearance of the toes of the right foot, for which +latter the affectionate pilgrims are answerable. On either side of the +statue a corridor lined with marble tablets--presented by "grateful" +individuals in acknowledgment of cures and cleansings--and dotted with +confessional boxes, leads down to the chapel. The repulsive gaudiness +of the tinsel display in the church above it is almost absent here, and +though the same exaltation of the Virgin over our Saviour is manifest, +yet otherwise this chapel, with its vaulted roof and its quietude, +seems far more fitted for meditation and prayer. + +Taking the easy gradient at the west end of the church, between the +grassy slopes planted with lilacs and other shrubs and trees, we +arrived at the grotto. A huge platform was in course of erection, for +the great pilgrimage expected from England in about a week, and the +noise of the workmen combined with the sparse gathering of +"worshippers" detracted greatly from the former pitiable solemnity of +the scene, though the stand of candles was flaring with light, and the +crutches, in their horrid rows, were still there. + +We left Lourdes again at three o'clock, the sun still very warm, as the +lazy attitudes of the peasants working in the fields attested; and, +passing several crosses at the roadside--"ornamented" with pincers, +hammer, nails, and sword, with a bantam cock on the top--reached the +base of the col (600 feet high) which separates the respective basins +of the Adour and the Echez. Half-way up the hill we discovered Mr. +Sydney, who had walked on ahead, very busy with a team of oxen, towards +which, having encountered them without a driver, he had taken upon +himself to act as "guide, philosopher, and friend"; and by dint of +great application of his umbrella, open and shut, in the last-mentioned +capacity, he brought them to, and kept them at, a standstill by the +side of the road till the carriage passed. + +From the top of the hill we enjoyed an extensive view, the Pic du Midi +de Bigorre standing out wonderfully clear. Descending again, we joined +the Tarbes road crowded with market carts, and leaving the village of +Montgaillard on the left, duly arrived at Bagnères de Bigorre, where we +were received with open arms by Monsieur and Madame Bourdette. + +The morrow being Sunday, was spent in resting, the magnificent weather +still continuing. The trees on the Coustous and the different hills +around were at length well covered with foliage, and gave a prettier +appearance to the town, which the ever-flowing streams by the +roadsides greatly added to. In the evening the Orphéon (or local Choral +Society) gave an open-air concert from the roof of one of the Coustous +cafés. A tremendous crowd of some 2000 persons had gathered under the +trees to listen, and kept perfectly still while the songs proceeded. +The solos were not particularly wonderful, but the beautiful blending +of the voices in the Pyrenean part-songs was a very great treat, and +the sounds, floating deliciously away on the soft evening air, could be +heard like some whispering echo for a long distance. + +[Illustration: ] + +We had some difficulty in arranging for a carriage, on the following +day, for Luchon, as a great number had been engaged for the fête at +Payole, and for those not yet taken high prices--considering the time +of year--were asked. Not wishing, however, to lose a day, we settled +for a landau and three horses to do the journey in two days--for 110 +francs, including _pourboire_--stopping the night at Arreau. The +day broke, like its predecessors, perfectly fine, and at 10.30 we made +our adieus to Bigorre, and were on our way. + +The scenery all the way to Payole was more charming than when we drove +there [Footnote: See pages 40-44.] previously, and on our arrival at +the Hôtel de la Poste there was a considerable difference visible +there. The courtyard was filled with carriages, and a busy throng +buzzed about the doors, while the windows were occupied by a variety of +forms. Having with great difficulty secured utensils, we unearthed the +lunch, and proceeded with our meal at a side-table. The participators +in the fête, who were all men, occupied the centre table, and others +were at the side. The noise they made was not appetising, and though +they mixed wines considerably, their jokes did not improve; yet the +scene was a very typical one of "Frenchmen out for a holiday." After +our repast, we adjourned to see the fête, and a wonderful treat it was! +Tame rabbits and fowls, fastened to a stake driven into the hillside, +some 90 to 100 yards from the road, were the targets, at which a +perpetual round of shots soon commenced. Double-barrelled guns loaded +with ball were the usual weapons; one or two single-barrelled pieces +and a rifle or two being occasionally seen. + +The marksmen seemed peculiarly poor ones, from the country lad, or the +genuine 'Arry, with huge check clothes, to the moustached "masher," +with tight trousers and rounded jacket. About one "poulet" in fifty +shots succumbed, and a white rabbit's dismissal was received with loud +acclamations. + +At 2.30, exactly two hours after our arrival, we were off again, and +soon entered the pine forest. It looked very bonny in the bright +sunlight, while the view from the Col d'Aspin was singularly +felicitous. Not a cloud anywhere. The mighty Posets, the Pic d'Arbizon, +and the other snow-crowned heights, softened by distance and beautified +by the tints in the foreground, stood out against the azure sky in all +their splendour. + +The Aure valley, as we descended, and the tiny hamlet of Aspin, looked +very peaceful and lovely; in fact, the whole of the extensive +scene--considered one of the finest to be enjoyed by driving in the +Pyrenees--seemed to spread out its charms before us. + +Winding down the splendid road, Arreau was soon in view, and at 4.30 we +drove under the portico of the Hôtel de France, somewhat dusty, but +wholly pleased. With some time to spare before dinner, we set out to +explore this wonderfully quaint, and--though dirty--strikingly +picturesque old town. A road leads from the courtyard of the hotel +straight to the very ancient-looking market-place and the river, at +which point the latter is crossed by a very old wooden bridge. +Traversing this, and passing several curious houses with verandahs +reaching over the street, we found ourselves at the ancient Chapelle de +St. Exupère, built during the 9th and 10th centuries, but now restored. +The windows are of fine stained glass, and the view from the belfry +tower, over the peculiar old town--with its curious turrets and roofs, +whose best days have long passed--is worth the somewhat arduous mount +to get to it. The peasant girl who stands inside the door, and in a +sing-song voice that never varies mixes up saints, fathers, towns, +corn, potatoes, bells, and "quelque chose pour le gardien," in her +rigmarole, was the least attractive adjunct of the venerable pile! + +Down a little alley, across the river, directly opposite the church, +Miss Blunt discovered a suitable spot for a sketch, [Footnote: +Unhappily this sketch was afterwards lost, so cannot be reproduced] and +on the production of materials and a chair from a neighbouring grocer's +she set to work, and in spite of the nearness--we might say the "too +odoriferous nearness "--of a dust-heap, a drain, and a swarm of midges, +she gallantly pursued her task till it reached a highly satisfactory +termination. + +Leaving the "ambrosial spot" (Jupiter save us!) we followed the road +leading past the old market-place at right angles to the wooden bridge, +and reached the church of Notre Dame. Though more modern than the +"Chapelle," it is at least three centuries old, having been built on +the ruins of the one originally erected in the 12th century. The wooden +reredos behind the altar, and other wooden carvings, seemed especially +good, but the curé, jingling a bunch of keys, preceded by an abbé, +seemed anxious to see us depart; so we prematurely left. Strolling back +through the town, and over the stone bridge that spans the Neste, we +walked for a short distance on the other side, and then past the +post-office and the Hôtel du Midi, to our own quarters for dinner. The +Hôtel de France, as it is called, is the best in Arreau, but is +nevertheless not much more than a fairly large country inn. The rooms +are very clean, and the food good, but the arrangements are somewhat +primitive; yet for all this we were very well satisfied on the whole, +though the necessity of starting at nine o'clock next morning prevented +us indulging in rhapsodies. + +When we left the courtyard and passed through the back part of the town +by the old church, the sky was still of the same lovely hue, though +unhappily there was hardly a breath of wind. Notwithstanding that +Arreau is charmingly placed, and that the trees were fairly forward +there, we soon found at a very slight increase of altitude that this +was not to last; in fact, almost at once after passing Bordères (2-1/4 +miles)--an old village with a castle of Jean V., a change was +apparent. Two miles further brought us to the insignificant hamlet of +Avajan, and another three of continual ascent to the outskirts of +Louderville (3280 ft.), with its old watch-tower (14th cent.) and cool +cascade. Here we had a fine view of the valley below, and passed fields +covered with oxslips, cowslips, and other flowers; while lower down, +meadow after meadow was whitened by the lovely wild narcissus. +Following at a very easy pace the long zigzags (two hours and a half +from Arreau), we reached the highest point of the road at the Port or +Col de Peyresourde [Footnote: 35 miles from Bigorre, n. from Arreau.] +(5070 ft), whence the view, though much more limited than that from the +Col d'Aspin, extends over the valleys of Louron and Arboust, and many +snow-peaks as well. + +As we descended the splendid winding road at a rattling pace, with the +slipper on the wheel, we quickly left barren trees and slopes behind, +and even at Garin, that curious village built among the rocks, the +silver birches were opening their leaves. Passing in turn the villages +of Cazaux, with its 12th century church, and St. Aventin, with its +double-towered church of a similar date, also, we sped under most +splendid avenues of sycamore, elm, lime, and ash, past dashing streams +and bright flower-clothed slopes--always descending--till we entered +Luchon: Luchon surrounded by magnificent hills, Luchon guarded by the +distant but ever-majestic snow summits, Luchon bathed in the scent of +lilac and other sweets, Luchon cooled and beautified by avenues and +squares of bright trees, and by gardens filled with the loveliest of +shrubs and flowers. Such was the Luchon presented to us as we drove +through the splendid streets and reached our hotel. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +BAGNÈRES DE LUCHON. + +The bathing establishment and its surroundings--The lovely +_Allées_--Montauban church and cascade--The Villa Russe and its +genial host--Various excursions--Orphanage of Notre Dame de Rocher--The +Vallée du Lys--The Rue d'Enfer and cascades--A lively scene--The view +from Superbagnères--Loading wood--"The Oxen's Appeal"--Visit to the +Orphanage--A "holy" relic--To Bosost--St. Mamet--"A Stumbling-block" +--Cascade of Sidonie--Horse tricks and jockey dodges--Lizards in +flight--Fashion on a donkey--On the Portillon 'twixt France and +Spain--The Valley of Aran--Snug Bosost--A curious inn--Children with +artistic bent--A bright pathway--Missing much, but thankful still. + + +The most delightful of weather throughout our stay doubtless added +greatly to our enjoyment of Luchon, and our willingness to agree with +its title as "The Pearl of the Pyrenees "; and, in fact, to all people +but those who love dust, noise, and fashion, this month of May is the +pleasantest time of the year to go, see, and be happy. + +The great bathing establishment, situated as it is in a lovely garden +(Quinconces) with a charming lake overhung with the graceful weeping +willows, and under the wooded sides of Superbagnères, seems to invite +one to enter and bathe. When we looked in, very little business was +going on, and one of the attendants, in the hope of receiving a small +coin, was nothing loath to show us round. + +It is the largest and most efficiently arranged of all the Pyrenean +establishments, and can accommodate over 200 people at the same time; +"douche" baths, swimming baths, ordinary baths, rooms for inhaling, +rooms for "pulverisation," seemed to succeed one another with unending +rapidity, as we followed our guide down long corridors or up flights of +stairs; and when at last it was all over, and he had quietly and +contentedly pocketed his coin, we felt as though we had been taking +quite a long walk. + +[Illustration: "THE 'PEARL' IN THE PEERLESS VALLEY."] + +The Allée d'Etigny--the principal street--and all the other +_allées_, notably the Allée des Bains, make most delightful +promenades, even in the heat of the day, so delightful is the shade +afforded by the trees that line the way on either side. To walk from +the "Thermes" along the Allée des Bains, turning into the Casino +gardens, or continuing further--leaving the "Chute de la Pique" on the +right--along the riverside till the road to Montauban cuts it at right +angles, is a most delicious evening stroll. We prolonged this, by +taking the road in question between the poplars up to the village of +Montauban itself; but found more interest in the beautiful new church +than in the waterfall at the back of the village, which is gained by +passing through the good cure's garden, and for which privilege half a +franc is charged. The church, of white stone, very symmetrically built +and of quite a different architecture from the usual French types, +stands out imposingly at the entrance to the village, backed up by the +tree-clad hills and the cottages beyond. The interior is most chaste +and tasteful, as different from the usual Roman Catholic interior as is +the outside from the general exterior, the texts on the pillars near +the entrance being quite an unusual feature. Whether the decoration was +not yet finished, and the tinsel therefore not yet arrived, we could +not learn; but are afraid it is only too probable, as the church, as it +stood, might have been one of our own; for even the gilt pulpit +harmonised so well with the rest, that it did not detract from the +religious and solemn effect, while the light through the +finely-coloured windows threw a softening glimmer over all. + +[Illustration: THE CHURCH OF MONTAUBAN.] + +We returned by a short cut through the fields on the left and the +garden of the Villa Russe, whose owner, "charmant et gentil," not only +showed us all over, but very kindly invited us to a strawberry feast a +month hence--which sorrowfully we had to decline--as well as making us +free of his garden and fields, the latter being filled with the +sweet-scented narcissus. + +The Hôtel Canton, in which we were staying, was very conveniently +situated and comfortable. While standing in a quiet part of the Rue +d'Espagne it was close to the post-office and casino on the one hand, +and the bathing establishment and the Jardin des Quinconces on the +other. Moreover, the stables of Jean Sanson--a most excellent guide for +all excursions--were close at hand, and his horses would be difficult +to beat; while his son Luis is experienced in all trips and ascents, +not only in the vicinity, but over a large part of the Pyrenees. + +The new casino, barely three years old, is situated in as charming a +quarter as could well be imagined, for besides possessing a finely +laid-out garden with many fine shrubs and trees, it is bounded by three +beautiful _allées_ as well. As previously mentioned, it can be +gained by the Allée des Bains, but the most direct way to the building +itself, from our hotel, was by keeping to the right along the Rue +d'Espagne and the narrow street beyond (the post-office being to the +left), opposite which a side entrance leads to the imposing edifice. + +The three most popular excursions from Luchon are those to the Port de +Venasque, the mountain pass at the head of the Pique Valley; the Vallée +du Lys and the Cascades; and thirdly, the ascent of Superbagnères. + +The greatest of all, and in truth the greatest in the Pyrenees, is the +ascension of the Pic de Nethou (11,170 ft.), the highest of the range, +and its two great buttresses, the Pics Maladetta (10,867 ft.) and +Milieu (11,044 ft). None but experienced mountaineers, with the most +experienced guides, attempt this ascent, which is attended with much +danger; but there are many other delightful trips in the vicinity, +including a visit to the Spanish village of Bosost; up the Aran valley +to Viella; a drive to the picturesquely-placed St. Béat, or to the old +Roman town of St. Bertrand de Comminges. + +Pleasant walks and drives are probably more numerous from Luchon than +from any other Pyrenean resort, and though we were rather too early in +the year for mountain climbing, the fine weather enabled us to enjoy +several other outings, which we will describe in turn. + +The Vallée du Lys and the Rue d'Enfer make an agreeable picnic, either +in a carriage as far as the "Cabanes du Lys" (6-1/4 miles), and then +horses for the other 3-3/4 miles up to the abyss, the cascades, and the +Rue d'Enfer, or on horseback all the way. We preferred the latter, and +taking a good lunch in the saddle-bags, made a start at the favoured +hour of ten. Under the lee of the Quinconces, past the Hôtel Richelieu, +Villa Richelieu, and the elevated Villa Marguerite, and we were fairly +on our way, the air sweetly laden with the scent from the flower-decked +fields and the lilac-trees in the gardens. + +When we passed the little road on the left leading to the Orphanage of +Notre Dame du Rocher, the lilac-scent was very strong; and the position +of the various buildings in connection with the institution seemed so +attractive that we determined to take a stroll there later on. Pursuing +our way, with the restored ruin of the Castelvieil above us on its +"monticule" overlooking the Orphanage, we were soon in a narrower part +of the valley, with the wooded slopes on either side. Then we crossed +the river to the left bank, which we followed until reaching the point +where the road to the Hospice and the Port de Venasque led to the left, +and ours crossed the river by a neat bridge (the Pont de Ravi) to the +right bank again. A little beyond this, the route for Superbagnères +--which we hoped to take another day--struck off among the +trees on the right of the road, which in turn gradually bent in the +same direction all up the beautiful Lys valley, till it again curved in +the opposite direction and arrived at the base of the Cascades, where +there is a fair inn (Auberge du Lys).[Footnote: Only in summer.] From +thence the road forks, but the track to the left is the better of the +two, at any rate if on foot, and by it--after fifteen minutes' +labour--the foot of the Cascade d'Enfer is reached; and the Pont +d'Arrougé in another quarter of an hour. A similar length of time is +still necessary to reach a small tower whence a good view of the +Gouffre d'Enfer and the Pont de Nadie, above it, can be enjoyed. This +tower is about a mile distant from the foot of the lowest fall. The +other cascade (the Cascade du Coeur) is not a very difficult twenty +minutes' walk by a path that leads through the trees to Lac Vert, and +as there is a capital inn there (later in the season), we think that +this would be a good spot for lunch. Even as it was, we managed to +enjoy ours pretty well, for fresh air and sunshine are good appetisers, +and the ride had added its effect besides. The return ride in the +afternoon, when the sun was commencing to decline a little, was very +pleasant, and the snow-covered Port de Venasque, so beautiful in its +whiteness, and yet for the same reason quite inaccessible, looked very +lovely when tinged with the crimson hue that the setting sun shot o'er +it, as we arrived in Luchon again. + +[Illustration: THE RUE D'ENFER AND CASCADES.] + +The following morning broke beautifully fine, and Luis Sanson was at +the door punctually at seven, with the horses for our trip up to +Superbagnères. + +The saddle-bags were again filled, and away we went, the horses--still +so fresh--being eager for a canter in the fresh morning air. In summer +the ascent is usually made by St. Aventin and the Granges de Gouron, in +which case the road towards the Col de Peyresourde is followed as far +as St. Aventin, and thence a way leading to the left; but we were too +early for that route, as an avalanche had only lately fallen, so were +obliged to go and return by the route used in the season for the return +only, viz., by the "Pont de Ravi" up the Vallée de la Pique. Having +reached the bridge and taken the path indicated by the sign-board on +the right, we were soon among the trees, which lent a very welcome +shade from the increasing heat, which even at this early hour (7.40 +A.M.) the glorious Sol was not ashamed to diffuse. + +At every fresh turn the strokes of the axe rang through the wood, +mingled with the sound of voices, and after making considerable +progress--during which our guide narrated incidents in his career as +hunter, guide, and jockey--we arrived in view of a very lively scene. +Workmen busy with the hatchet, the saw, and the plane, in the +foreground; others in the rear occupied with mortar and stones, +building a small but substantial house; a cart with oxen lazily +waiting, like Mr. Micawber, for "something to turn up"; a few superior +individuals in deep consultation, and the irrepressible sun struggling +through the beeches and pines to have "his finger in the pie"--such was +the scene we saw, but soon left behind. After this the good broad +carriage-road soon came to an end, and the easy gradient changed to a +steep path among a grove of nothing but beeches, which emerged later on +the slope of a somewhat bare and stony hill dotted with a few gentians. +The view improved with nearly every step, growing magnificently vast; +and when at length we reached the summit, or rather a mound a few feet +lower, but equally good as a point of sight (for the summit was covered +with snow), we gazed on as grand an expanse of mountains and +tree-clothed valleys as imagination could picture in the most lofty of +its lofty flights. + +[Illustration: ON THE ROAD TO SUPERBAGNÈRES.] + +Probably but few people will be disposed to deny that, considering the +comparatively small amount of labour necessary to attain the summit, it +is more than amply compensated for; and, when the height of +Superbagnères--which is only 5,900 ft.--is taken into account, such a +grand sight is almost unique. For over two-thirds of a circle the chain +of peaks continues, extending from the Céciré of Superbagnères to the +Céciré [Footnote 1: We have only the guide's authority for this name +here.] above Bosost, and even beyond. Beginning with the nearest, the +Céciré (8,025 ft.) of Superbagnères, then come the Pêne de Montarqué +(9685 ft.), and the cone-shaped Quairat (10,037 ft.), followed by the +huge glacier of Crabioules, which, in spite of its eternal snow, +supplies the various cascades in the Rue d'Enfer that flow into the Lys +valley. Above rise up the Pic de Crabioules (10,233 ft), the Pic de +Bourn (9,875 ft), and the peculiar Tuc de Maupas (10,204 ft.); after +which the Trous d'Enfer and the Pic de Sacroux (8,786 ft) appear. The +next of the near peaks is the Pic de Sauvegarde (9,145 ft), but between +the Sacroux and this, calm and clear, the highest peaks of the range, +the Milieu, the Maladetta, and the Nethou, with the dead white glacier +below them, rise in view. After the Sauvegarde, the Pic de la Mine +(9,048 ft.), the Port de Venasque (7,930 ft.), and the very pointed Pic +de la Pique (7,854 ft.) appear, followed by the Pas de l'Escalette +(7,877 ft.) and the Port de la Picade (8,219 ft.), towards which group +the Vallée de l'Hospice leads. + +To the left of the Picade, the cone of the lofty "Posets" may be seen +in the distance, while more to the left, and more distant too, the Peña +Blanca (9222 ft.) is also visible. Further round, over the wooded +"cols" that guard the "Pique" valley, the Mont Ségu [Footnote: We have +only the guide's authority for the name.] and Céciré near Bosost, and +the _Pyrénées Orientales_ beyond, finished the magnificent chain. +From another situation we could look down on Luchon and from this point +were endeavouring to reach the little hut, where fodder and a few +provisions can be found in the season, when an ancient shepherd bawled +out in _patois_ that the place was as yet tenantless, for which we +felt thankful to that peasant, as it saved us a long tramp through +rather deep snow, though for that same reason we were unable to reward +his forethought as it deserved. Leaving him to pursue his guileless +way, we descended into the beech grove for our lunch, and finding +grateful shade at the foot of a fine fir, we opened the saddle-bags and +proceeded to regale ourselves, finding some snow that we brought from +the top very useful to cool the rather heated claret. After nature was +satisfied we quickly descended past the previously busy scene, and when +near the high road again came in view of some woodmen loading a cart +with logs. To do this the logs had to be brought to an eminence above +the cart, and bullocks were employed to drag up the wood. The men were +treating them most cruelly, and once or twice they lowed so piteously, +that we have translated it into + +"THE OXEN'S APPEAL." + + Working and toiling the whole of the day, + Working and toiling without any pay, + Only perchance a few mouthfuls of hay, + From earliest dawn till late. + Held by the horns 'neath this cumbersome yoke, + Firmer fixed thus than a "pig in a poke," + Feeling the "prong" and the lengthy stick's stroke, + Ours, alas, is a terrible fate. + + When straining our utmost, you bring the stick down + On our miserable backs; and you swear, and you frown, + Never thinking the sun is just "doing us brown," + As the furnace will do when we're slain. + We cannot pull more than we can, you must know, + And we cannot pull fast if we can but pull slow, + So why should you spike us, and ill-use us so, + And make our hides tingle with pain? + + We serve you well always, draw heaviest loads, + And never complain of the worst of bad roads; + While you in return use those blood-drawing goads + At ev'ry conceivable time. + Be sure that no quicker or wiser are we, + But we _do_ sometimes think if we got our horns free, + The position in which you would probably be, + And you would not pronounce it sublime. + + So listen, we pray, to our modest appeal: + With kindness more proud of our work we should feel; + And if those fierce blows you still ruthlessly deal, + You'll make our flesh horrible stuff; + For though steaks are good beaten, that's done when they're cold, + And we're certainly not, nor as yet very old; + But as some day we'll have to be butchered and sold, + We had better be tender than tough. + If you'll try our plan--that is enough! + +At twenty minutes past one we had repassed the graceful Jardin des +Quinconces, with the weeping willows overhanging the lakelet, and were +within the cool precincts of the hotel. + +Having a couple of hours to spare another morning, we wended our way +towards the Orphanage, "deep in the lilac grove." Turning off from the +road, we followed the narrow track over the rustic bridge, and were +received anything but hospitably by a huge white dog. We calmed him in +time, however, and proceeded to inspect the buildings, but found nearly +everyone shut up, though the little church--elevated above the +rest--was, unlike them, thrown open. Its very rusticity and simplicity +gave it a religious air which to us so few Roman Catholic edifices seem +to possess. The badly-spelt and feebly-worded address to the Pope, to +which he has affixed his signature, that hangs in a frame near the +door, we did not consider much of an attraction, though to the members +of the little congregation it would doubtless be a very holy relic. +Forsaking this peaceful retreat, we climbed up the ascent behind, +within view of the statue of the Virgin, but soon descended again, as +the sun was at that time particularly "baking," and we were not doughty +enough to pretend to resist it. After a cool spell near the +chapel-door, watching the "painted ladies" [Footnote: Butterflies, of +course!] playing with the lilac blossoms, we trudged slowly back again. + +One of the pleasantest as well as most interesting of our trips in the +Pyrenees was from Luchon to the little Spanish village of Bosost, and +as it is one of the principal pillars that uphold the chief title of +this volume, it deserves a detailed mention. + +This time the favourite hour of ten was not early enough for starting, +so we were on horseback by 9.15, going very leisurely, being quite +undesirous to force the pace, as the day was warm even at that hour. + +Up the Rue d'Espagne for a short distance beyond the Hôtel Richelieu +(which hotel, from all we have heard, though large, is not too moderate +nor owned by too polite a proprietor), and then we took the turning to +the left, which (as the signboard tells) leads to St. Mamet. Without +waiting to enter the old church to see its frescoes, we pursued the +road branching off to the right, which presently left the Orphanage +behind in the same direction. A few minutes later we had passed the +frontier (French) custom station, and leaving the isolated Castelvieil +(2514 ft.) for a short time on our right, and later in our rear, we +bore up the Vallée de Burbe. We had only progressed a short distance +when a huge rock was visible in the centre of the road, evidently a +very recent gift from the adjacent height. Our horses having been so +little used, were very fresh and rather fond of shying, and our +guide's, which was an Arab, not only shied at the impediment, but +wheeled round with the intention of going homewards. As we managed to +make our own, however, pass quietly, the obstreperous one, after a +brief struggle, was induced to follow their example. A little further +on, we met a fine team of Spanish mules in their full picturesque +trappings and bells. The two men in charge of them were dressed a +little untidily, but their attire was equally picturesque, the coloured +waistband, turban, and knee-breeches producing a very bright effect. + +The bright yellow-green of the beeches, mingling with the dark and +gloomy olive shade of the firs; here and there fields laden with the +blue columbine and the "overrated" asphodel; the boulder-strewn slopes +on our left, and the snow-ridges on the right; and the strong, fresh, +and foaming cascade of Sidonie tumbling down beside us, made a very +delicious contemplation as we went on our way. + +Our guide in a most "gallant" manner got off his steed to gather Miss +Blunt a few flowers, but when he endeavoured to assume his former +elevated position, the "Arab" didn't see it. In fact he _would not +be_ mounted, and the unevenness of the track added not a little to +the success of his manoeuvrings. "Luis" had not been six months a +"jockey" for nothing, however; so he lulled his steed into a sense of +security by walking beside it for some time in circus fashion, with his +right hand grasping the off side of the saddle, until a large stone +showed its head at the side of the road. As they passed, he ran up the +stone and was in the saddle before the animal realised that he was +beaten, and when he did, it seemed to humble him to that degree that he +never attempted even a curvet. + +The number of lizards we disturbed was something wonderful. None of +them were very large or very striking in colour, but they made up for +this in animation; and their fearful trepidity and hurry to get +anywhere out of sight was wonderful. + +Just before entering the sunlit beech glades we overtook a noble +cavalcade, consisting of three ladies on three donkeys, with a fat old +woman leading the way on foot. They had their lunch with them, and +apparently intended--judging by a certain hungry look they had--to make +their repast at the earliest opportunity. The young and beautiful lady +bringing up the rear was probably ignorant of the ludicrous figure she +made with her "ultra" fashionable arrangement of steels, that gave her +the appearance of having a large clothes-bag under her dress, or we +don't think she would have started on the excursion in such a garment. +If a member of the "Rational Dress Society" had seen her, there would +probably have been an "exhibition" on the spot, and a general one--with +all the latest "improvements" (?)--at Luchon a few weeks later. + +After traversing a number of beautiful glades we entered the Firs--the +Black Forest as it is called,--where bears are hunted in the winter, +and through which the road ascends by a series of zigzags to the summit +of the Col de Portillon (4275 ft.), and then descends for a short +distance to the frontier, marked by a huge boulder, with the French +flag on one side and the Spanish on the other. As we reined in the +horses opposite to it for a moment, no one could dispute that we were +indeed "'twixt France and Spain." But we did not stay to enjoy this +enviable position long; and passing on, endeavoured to realise that we +were no longer in France by fixing our eyes on the _Pyrénées +Orientales_; we could also see the Poujastou (6332 ft.) on our left, +the Couradilles (6513 ft.), the Mont Ségu, the Céciré, [Footnote: We +had only our guide's authority for these names] and further forward the +Entécade on our right. A short distance down the road there lay the +Casino du Portillon, not yet opened for the summer gambling, and not +very much further (viz., about a mile from the frontier), the Spanish +custom-house, and the Casino de Roulette. Here the road divides, the +branch to the Vallée d'Aran and Bosost bearing to the left, and the +other, to Viella and the Artiques-Tellin, in the opposite direction. + +Passing some ruined houses and fertile slopes in our descent, we soon +obtained a fine view up both ends of the Aran valley, with the +diminutive Garonne winding through, and Bosost snugly situated on the +slopes of a hill round a bend in the road. The sun was pouring down in +all his midday strength as we passed the roadside chapel of St. Antoine +and entered the antiquated little village of Bosost, stopping at the +Fonda de España for lunch. + +This inn, from the road, was as much unlike an inn as anything we ever +saw, and its ways and passages were somewhat unique; but upstairs there +was a large room with a wide terrace facing the river, which only +wanted an awning over to be rendered delicious. We were unfortunately +too early in the season for this luxury, so had to content ourselves +with lunching in the room, with wide-opened doors. When the provisions +were spread out, in rushed the guide with an official document, and a +franc to pay for having invaded Spain. We gave him the money, and asked +to taste some honest country wine, which resulted in the domestic +bringing us something rather strong, like new port, which did not go +badly with water. + +After the repast had passed pleasantly, we strolled out into the +village, Miss Blunt being equipped with the requisites for a brilliant +sketch. Unhappily, the subject was not easy to find, though we marched +through most of the streets; but having visited the ancient +church--with its chime of bells, like many others in Spain, arranged on +a wheel--we found a spot by the side of a huge elm from which there was +a good view of the sacred edifice. But it was a case of sketching under +difficulties, as the whole or at least the greater part of the village +children crowded round us, some carrying smaller children in their +arms, some playing with flowers, others cutting bits of wood, and one +and all managing to do their utmost to bother poor Miss Blunt. She +accordingly finished the sketch as quickly as possible, and we all +returned to the hotel to keep out of the oppressive heat. + +At three o'clock we started homewards, going rather faster than when we +came. Alternate clouds and sunshine overhead, the lights and shadows +over the trees, the fields--radiant with gentians, oxslips, columbine, +_polygaloe_, and asphodel--losing none of their charm. + +At the Spanish custom-house we delivered up our passport, for which we +had paid the franc, and then wound over the Portillon and gently back +to our hotel, not arriving too late for the cup that soothes and +cheers, but never cheers too loudly. + +The morrow was to see us leaving Luchon--the charming, the +beautiful--and all of us had a similar feeling, viz., that we might +soon come and see the "Pearl of the Pyrenees" again. + +It was true that we had missed all the noise and excitement which comes +with the summer; that we had missed the troops of Pau-ites wearing out +such of their "robes" as the heat would allow, and the throngs of gay +Spaniards; that we had missed the crowds of invalids, the bands of +music, and the worst specimens of the travelling world, "French +tourists." But it was a truth for which we were very grateful, and we +would certainly advise future visitors to take Luchon in the spring, +and leave it before the heat and bustle of the season mar its peace, +and the summer's sun melts the snowy splendour of the surrounding +heights. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +ST. BERTRAND DE COMMINGES. + +Keeping to old friends--Valley history--Entering the Garonne +valley--The picturesque St. Béat--St. Béat to Viella--Memories of the +lovely Thames--Baths of Ste. Marie--Loures--The cross-roads--Weak +walls--Entering St. Bertrand--An ancient house--The inn--A charming +garden--The cathedral--A national disgrace--"The Crocodile of St. +Bertrand"--The tomb of Hugues de Chatillon--Travelling desecraters--St. +Bertrand's rod--The ruined cloisters--Desolation--Swine +feeding--Montrejeau--The buffet--No milk!--French railway +officials--Trying experiences. + + +It was not many years ago that travellers with heavy luggage were +forced to travel in the clumsy diligence between Luchon and Montrejeau; +and, especially in the summer when the press for places was great, very +little comfort could be enjoyed during the journey, except perhaps on a +fine day, when for a short space the vehicle stopped at St. Bertrand de +Comminges. Now, the railway in an hour performs the whole distance; but +we preferred to keep to our old friends, a "landau and four horses," +and with the weather still propitious, left the comfortable Hôtel +Canton at our favourite time, and were soon bowling down the Allée +d'Etigny. In a short time the Allée Barcugna and the station were left +behind, and we entered the broader part of the valley of Luchon. This +valley was originally--_on dit_--a huge lake, and afterwards +--presumably when it had ceased to be such--became peopled by a Gallic +race, whose "divinity," Ilixo, [Footnote: Ilixo has now become Luchon.] +has given his name to the surroundings. We presume in this derivation +"consonants are interchangeable and vowels don't count." + +Cier de Luchon (four and a quarter miles), above which to the west +stands the Pic d'Antenac (6470 ft), was soon passed through, as we +crossed and recrossed the railway line, now following the River Pique, +and now, for a short space, keeping along the line. Five miles further, +and we left the Pique valley for that of the Garonne, passing through +the village of Cierp, which lies to the right of Marignac, the station +where passengers alight for St. Béat. This is a very picturesque +village, about three miles east, perched above the Garonne in a narrow +defile, possessing an ancient church and a good inn. The Pic de Gar +(5860 ft.), which rears up to the north of the village, is very rich in +flora; and the road passing through it (St Béat) afterwards leads by +the villages of Arlos, Fos, and Lès to Bosost (twelve miles), whence it +continues to Viella. + +The valley at this point is particularly fertile and lovely, and as we +progressed, frequently following the windings of the Garonne, memories +of pleasant hours, both lively and dreamy, spent on some of the quiet +reaches on the dear old Thames, seemed naturally to recall themselves; +the similarity of the surroundings being in some parts so great. + +At Saléchan (thirteen miles) the beautiful valleys of Siradan and +Barousse branch off, and the scenery in the vicinity is deliciously +bright and peaceful-looking. The bathing resort of Ste. Marie lies a +mile northwards, and barely a mile to the west of it, on the road to +Mauléon, the baths of Siradan are situated. Mauléon (1960 ft.) is three +and a quarter miles west from Siradan by the village of Cazaril, +standing at the head of the Barousse valley. + +Still passing through charming country, we reached Loures (not to be +confounded with Lourdes), at which place--being the railway station for +St. Bertrand--carriages can be hired for the drive, a distance of six +miles there and back. Traversing the village and crossing the bridge, +we issued again on a vista of fields bright with trefoil and waving +flowers, and backed up by finely-wooded hills. Away to the right, +nestling among the trees, stands a pretty little village and castle, +and as we passed on, St. Bertrand came in view over the crest of a +wooded hill; and, arriving at the junction where the roads from Auch, +Toulouse, and Ax join in, we ascended the hill on which this ancient +town is situated. + +Founded by Pompey the Great, B.C. 69, Lugdunum Convenarum, or Lyon, +or--as it is now called--St. Bertrand de Comminges, though standing +only 1690 ft. above the sea, seems from its isolated position, to be +much higher; as the accompanying sketch by M. Doré testifies, though +the latter exaggerates the proportions of the cathedral. + +Though in a ruinous state, much of the old ramparts and fortifications +remain, while in some parts many of the old stones seemed to us to have +been used for ornamental walls, such as no one would consider fit to +resist even a very modest cannon-ball. + +Bearing to the left, we passed beneath the "Porte Cabirole," opposite +to which stands a small kiosque, built, on account of the beauty of the +view, at that point The road continues between high walls underneath +another archway, past the ruins of a curious house, with a winding +staircased tower of the 13th century, which alas! before this appears +in print, will probably have disappeared altogether; then bending to +the left, and again to the right after a few yards, we drew up at the +Café (called by courtesy Hôtel) de Comminges, with the ancient +cathedral in full view. Having sent a telegram early in the morning, we +found lunch ready for us, and though we had fared better elsewhere, we +did not consider that for a "primitive Roman town" the meal was to be +found fault with while as to the garden belonging to the inn, it was +indeed a charming little spot. Although in truth but little more than a +"spot," the bright and varied hues of its stocks, columbines, pansies, +and sweet peas, with here and there a particularly fine iris, +contrasting so effectively with the dark green of the ivy leaves and +the blackness of the berries clustering over the old wall, gave it a +charm which we could not fail to feel; and the view from the +creeper-grown arbour over the richly-wooded hills and brilliant fields, +with the bright garden as a background, made a scene to remember and +enjoy. + +[Illustration: St. Bertrand De Comminges.] + +Notre Dame, or Sainte Marie, as the cathedral is called, attracted our +attention most, and though the front view is perfectly spoilt by the +lofty scaffolding erected before it, the inside fully compensates for +this defect, although it is impossible to view the ruinous state of +some portions without great regret. + +The English are supposed to be a very lucky people, and at any rate we +have reason to be thankful that we are not a republic, nor as a rule +neglectful of old historical buildings; and the sight of this +magnificent old place, mouldering away with no apparent aid +forthcoming--except such as the liberality of occasional visitors +provides, and that, for such a work, is practically _nil_--did not +provoke any wish to change our nationality. It is not as if the French +said, "We are becoming a Protestant people, and therefore wish to +destroy all signs of our having once followed the faith of Rome;" for +in that case censure would be utterly misplaced; but surely if the +national religion remains Roman Catholic, an ancient and wonderfully +interesting old cathedral like this ought to be suitably preserved. + +Having been built at two different periods (viz. the close of the 11th +and the middle of the 14th centuries), the architecture presents two +distinct styles, which in parts, are particularly incongruous. The +organ and pulpit combined, which are on the left of the entrance, +constitute a very handsome work of the "Renaissance" period, and are +most unique. On the opposite side of the building a crocodile--or the +remains of one--hangs from the wall, doubtless brought, as M. Joanne +suggests, from some Egyptian crusade; but the "church" puts a very +different complexion on the subject, as will be seen from the +following, which--with all its faults--will be, we trust, pardoned, +since it issues from the mouth of so badly-treated a reptile as + + "THE CROCODILE OF ST. BERTRAND." + + A crocodile truly, there's no one could doubt, + On taking a look at my skin: + It's as dry and as tough as a petrified clout,[1] + Though, alas! there is nothing within. + + I've been here on this wall for a jolly long time, + And the "cronies" a legend will tell + Of the wonderful things, void of reason and rhyme, + That during my lifetime befell. + + They'll tell you I lived in "this" beautiful vale, + And found in the river a home; + While even the bravest would start and turn pale, + If they chanced in my pathway to roam. + + They'll tell how I swallow'd the babies and lambs, + And harassed the cows in the mead; + And such slander completely my character damns, + While I've no one to help _me_ to plead. + + And they'll whine how I met the great Bertrand himself, + The miracle-worker and saint. + But those women will tell any "walkers" for pelf, + And swear I'm all black--when I ain't. + + Yes! they actually say that St. Bertrand came by, + And lifted his ivory stick, + Then dealt me a terrible blow in the eye, + Which levell'd me flat as a brick. + + But it's false! Just as false + as that "here" I was + brought + + On the back of that + wonderful man. + + But the crones just repeat + what the "priesthood" + have taught, + + And it's part of a regular + plan. + + Why, believe me, they + caught me afloat on + the Nile + + As my dinner I just had + begun; + + I was chased by a host of + the picked "rank + and file," + + And to them my destruction + seem'd fun. + + And when I was dead they + anointed my bones, + + And placed me up here + on the wall; + + But that organ at first was + so loud in its tones, + + Of rest I found nothing + at all. + + A crocodile truly. You've + heard my sad tale, + + And I say that such lies + are a sin; + + While the protests I make, + seeming nought to + avail, + + Are enough to make any + one thin! + +[Footnote 1: This is a Yorkshire word, meaning "cloth."] + +[Illustration: THE CROCODILE OF ST. BERTRAND.] + +Turning away from this "priestly" monument to St. Bertrand's miraculous +powers, we passed along the side of the remarkable choir stalls--which +take up the greater part of the edifice--and turned inside at an +opening, near the high altar. The latter, decorated with the ordinary +display of 19th century tinsel, does not call for much comment, but in +a passage close behind it stands the mausoleum of St. Bertrand, built +in 1432. The stalls were erected in the 16th century, and are worthy of +much attention. + +The rood loft, which is nearest the entrance to the cathedral, is +ornamented with figures of the Apostles and Saints, and the exterior +panels running along both sides, and divided by small choicely-carved +columns, represent a diversity of figures; none, however, seeming to +bear much, if at all, on religion. In the interior, besides the throne, +there is a remarkable "tree of Jesse "--near the first stall on the +right hand--which we thought was well done; but what with the different +figures above each stall, the arabesques uniting them, and the less +minute work under each seat, there was no lack of carving to be seen; +and even if it was not all of the highest order, the general effect was +strikingly good. It is worth noting that the cathedral, owing to some +great error, was built facing north instead of west, and that +consequently the east side is on the left of the entrance. Half-way up +this side is the small chapel of Notre Dame de Pitié, in which the fine +marble tomb of Hugues de Chatillon lies. The sculpture is especially +fine, though the beauty is somewhat marred by names scratched with a +pin or written in pencil, wherever sufficient level space is afforded. +Since English people as a rule are credited with being by far the most +numerous of this class of travelling desecraters, it was at least a +satisfaction to notice that most of the individuals, who had chosen +this objectionable--though probably the only--method of handing their +names down to posterity, were French. This tomb was only erected in the +15th century, although the good bishop died in 1352, the same year in +which the edifice was finished. + +Several relics may be seen in the sacristy, and amongst them is the +wonderful ivory rod with which the great St. Bertrand is supposed to +have slain the much-maligned crocodile. + +Close to the entrance to the sacristy a door leads into the cloisters, +where the scene of ruin and desolation is painfully evident. In the +portion nearest the church, which is roofed over, several curious +_sarcophagi_ may be seen; the rest is a series of pillars and +arches from which the roof has long vanished. In the photographs (which +may be bought at the inn) there is some appearance of order even in the +midst of the decay, but this was probably carefully effected prior to +the artist's visit; for when we were there the whole space was +overgrown completely with weeds, among which a rose-bush and a few +other flowers struggled to bloom, untended and apparently unthought of. + +Passing again through the cathedral, whose windows are well worthy of +mention, we made a detour round the town, and then started for +Montrejeau. + +The road does not pass through such charming country as we had seen in +the morning, but at times there are some pleasing little bits. At one +spot, where a grove of trees skirted the way, we noticed a large herd +of swine, watched over by a solitary and silent female, to whom they +appeared to give no trouble, never seeming to stray far. + +Going at a fairly fast pace, we only took forty-five minutes to reach +the ancient town of Mons Regalis, now completely modernised into +Montrejeau. The advancing years have not only altered it in name, for, +with the exception of the ruins of a twelfth-century castle, there is +nothing to indicate its mediaeval origin; and as to the old-world look +that is so pleasant to meet with, but now so rare, this town of the +"Royal Mount" has no trace of it. The "buffet" at the station, however, +can be recommended, although the "lacteal fluid," either in its pure or +watered form, is decidedly scarce there. The dinner and coffee are +good, and, like most dinners at the stations (always excepting such +places as Amiens and Tours), moderate, when taken at the table d'hôte. + +We had plenty of time for a meal before the train destined to carry us +on to Pau was due, but in spite of that, through the boorishness of the +station porters and staff generally, we did not depart without a lively +experience. + +It is well known that ladies as a rule are wont to travel with numerous +small parcels, and there was no exception in our party to this rule, +while Mr. Sydney and myself were not without _impedimenta_ as +well. In all, there were about a dozen--to put a familiar figure--too +small or too fragile to share the dangers of the luggage-van. These, +three respective porters promised to bring to the train, but as every +porter broke his word, they remained _in statu quo_. And we may +here remark how noticeable it is, that whereas English porters are +always on the alert to earn a few coppers, their French representatives +will rarely if ever help with anything but the registered luggage +(which of course is in the company's charge), while a higher official, +such as you would never ask in England, will occasionally assist--if +desired to do so with politeness--but only occasionally. It is evident +that the French Government reduce the staff to the narrowest limits, +and do not intend porters to help in transporting any luggage but that +which has been paid for in registration; and on the same principle as +armies are organised in South America, for every "porter" there will be +two or three superintendents. + +To resume.--This perfidy of the porters placed us in a very unenviable +position; the train was due to start, the ladies were in the carriage, +but the luggage was in a pile at the other side of the station, and Mr. +Sydney, thinking all was well, had followed the ladies. I was requested +to do likewise, as the train was off; but instead of so doing, launched +such a tirade at the head of every official within reach, that they +kept the train waiting to return it; at last, seeing I was obdurate, at +least half a dozen rushed to the offending pile, collared the various +items, and bore them towards our compartment. As the first instalment +arrived I got up, and the train started. The rest of the laden +officials were ranged a few yards apart, and as our carriage passed, +the packages and cloaks were thrown in. The scene they presented when +the door was first shut was unique, but very deplorable, and it +required the whole of the journey of four and a half _hours_ to +Pau, to calm our troubled minds, cool our heated frames, and make us +look with equanimity on our experience. It would require _years_ +to efface the opinion formed on "French railway station" management; so +in that we followed a method often pursued by schoolboys in early life, +over the "Pons asinorum," and gave it up. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +EAUX BONNES AND EAUX CHAUDES. + +Carriage _v_. diligence--Early birds--Height of +absurdity--Diminutive donkeys--A whitened region--"Crystal +clear"--Washerwomen and their gamps--A useful town-hall--A halfway +house--Moralising--A much-loved pipe--An historic ruin--A noteworthy +strong box--"Ici on rase"--Where are the bears?--Women in +gaiters--Picturesque costumes--A lovely road--A "perfect" cure--A +spring scene--A billiard-playing priest--A well-placed pavilion--The +Valentin and its cascades--Through solid rock--Gaps in the road--A +grand scene--Wanted, an artist--A fine torrent--Professional +fishers--Lucky guests--Musings--Poor Mr. Tubbins--Bonnes _v_. +Chaudes--Over the Col de Gourzy--Peculiar teams--Guelder +roses--Spinning. + + +Next year, travellers with luggage will probably be able to reach Eaux +Bonnes in a much shorter time than now, since the railway ought then to +be in working order as far as Laruns; but at the period when this was +written, the only choice of conveyances lay between a clumsy diligence +and a comfortable carriage. + +Very few people would be likely to hesitate between the two, provided +they were not travelling alone, and in that case even, they would +probably only take the former as an "experience." + +The "diligence" which starts from the Hôtel de la Poste at Pau has +three compartments, for a seat in any of which the respective charges +are 8 frs. 80 cents, 7 frs. 70 cents, and 6 frs. 60 cents. The +"first-class" seats--which are of course the best--are placed behind +the driver, and a large dusty-looking hood shields the passengers from +the rain, but not from the dust, nor, since it is black and low, from +the heat of the sun. The position therefore, even with ample +accommodation, is a trying one, but when tightly packed, and wedged in +with luggage to boot, on a warm summer or even spring day, the lot of +an individual during the 5-1/2 hours' journey, with only a half-hour's +break between, would, like the policeman's, be certainly not "a happy +one." + +When a party are going it is of course cheaper to take a carriage, +which may be had for from 35 to 50 francs to do the trip in one day, or +at the rate of 25 francs per diem, taking it for two days or more. As +the distance between Pau and either Eaux Bonnes or Eaux Chaudes is +271/2 miles, and the distance of the one watering-place from the other +61/4 miles, the actual mileage from Pau and back again is 611/4 miles, +to perform which in one day, and see the two towns as well, is a +feat--though often done--hardly to be recommended. At least two days +should be given to the task, and we do not think they would be +regretted. + +The heat in Val d'Ossau during the summer months is very great, and the +lumbering old diligence usually runs during the hottest part of the +day; we preferred an early start, and by half-past six were on the +road, meeting a few people apparently wending their way towards the +market, with flowers and vegetables for sale. Crossing the bridge and +through Jurançon, where hardly a soul was astir, we sped along the +dusty road to Gan (5 miles), at which town--one of the chief centres of +the wine district--a road to Oloron branches off to the right. Here the +inhabitants were really beginning to bustle; and as it was getting on +towards eight o'clock, they were nothing too early, although they may +have held a different opinion. At the corner of one of the streets we +came upon a team drawing a long cart, which we unanimously christened +the "height of absurdity." A pair of 17-hand horses were in the shafts, +and in front, attached as a leader, was the smallest of donkeys. Miss +Blunt thought it the _smallest donkey in the world_; but we have +met with so many lately in the Pyrenees which were in turn, in her +opinion, the smallest she had ever seen, that by this time the smallest +donkey might be but little bigger than a rat; this, however, was not +the case, as Mr. Sydney will attest. + +The valley grew more lovely as we progressed, with the winding Néez +stream running with merry music beside the road, and although Mrs. +Blunt did not indulge--as on the way to Cauterets--in any raptures of +her own, she was quite willing to agree with the rest that the frequent +resemblance of the scenery to many of the lovely bits we have in Wales +was most pleasantly apparent. + +Shortly before reaching the blanched region of the lime-works (71/2 +miles), we caught a momentary glimpse of the Pic du Midi d'Ossau (9466 +ft.), on which the summer sun had of late so relentlessly played, that +the snowy crown had quite disappeared. Rebénac (93/4 miles) was reached +at 8.40, and there we crossed the Néez by a stone bridge, the stream +then running on our right, and continuing thus for three kilomètres +farther (11 miles from Pau), when it issues from the Grotto du +Néez--only a few yards from the road. From this grotto a great part of +the torrent is diverted, being utilised to supply Pau with its pure and +sparkling fluid. Half-an-hour after leaving Rebénac we passed through +the village of Sévignac, (123/4 miles), and had a splendid view of the +Val d'Ossau from the bridge which overlooks Arudy, and which is +overlooked in turn by a fine and well-situated house. + +We had barely time to appreciate the curious rocks which abound near +Arudy, when we passed the road leading off through that town to Oloron, +and came in sight of a merry group of washerwomen, whose enormous +umbrellas--being unnecessary, since it was perfectly fine--were open in +a row, and with their shades of magenta, green, and blue, without +mentioning sundry patches of other shades, made a wonderful contrast to +the green bushes fringing the river. + +At 9.40 we entered Louvie Juzon (16 miles), with its old church and +curious belfry-tower, and its "mairie" turned into a school--for the +nonce at least; and passing the latter, we crossed the fine bridge over +the Gave d'Ossau, on the other side of which the Oloron road leads off +through Izeste to the right, and the courtyard of the Hôtel des +Pyrénées bids us enter and rest. + +How gladly the occupants of the diligences descend, for the short while +adjudged sufficient, at this customary half-way house, who but +themselves can tell? Even we were glad to let the horses have an hour's +rest, and to enjoy meanwhile some good hot coffee and chicken. The inn +itself was certainly not a paradise; but there were some lovely fields +behind it, and in front, across the road, there was an old table and an +older seat among the trees, down by the swift-flowing river. A charming +place for moralising indeed! None of us, however, were much in the +style of the "melancholy Jacques," or, with our eyes on some vigorous +fisherman higher up the river, we might have begun: + + "And yet it irks us, these bright speckled trout, + Being native swimmers in this river, should + From their own limpid pools, by gay, false flies + Be cruelly decoyed." + +Instead of this, however, we returned to the inn, where we saw a worthy +count endeavouring to clean a huge meerschaum pipe that he handled with +evident fondness, and finding our carriage ready--it being then nearly +eleven o'clock--we continued our journey. + +It was now that the real Val d'Ossau commenced, and though the drive so +far had been much enjoyed, we soon passed into scenery both more fine +and more wild. One kilomètre from Louvie on the left stands the ancient +Château de Géloz (161/2 miles) on a small hill, and on another hill +beside it--of corresponding size--stands a church. The view here, with +the village of Castets behind, the beautiful river below, and the +wooded slopes and massive rocks above, was especially charming. + +With many lovely fields on either side of us we drove at a smart pace +towards Bielle (181/4 miles), and at a quarter-past eleven entered the +town, which in bygone days was the capital of Ossau. Here the +celebrated Coffre d'Ossau, that contained archives dating from the year +1227, was kept; and it is a noteworthy fact that the presence of the +mayors of three towns, besides that of the President of the Valley +Council, was necessary before this "strong box" could be opened. + +There are many old houses and objects of interest, including some +mosaics, to be seen in the town, and among other things that attracted +our attention was a large board, painted in the most modern style, with +a pair of scissors at one side and an open razor at the other, and the +"welcome" information--"Ici on rase" underneath. + +The village of Bilhères, situated above Bielle on the slopes of the +hill, is not without interest on account of the richness of its copper +mines, while during the dry season a track leads from it over the Col +de Marie Blanque to the Vallée d'Aspe. + +As we continued our journey the frequent puffs of dust alone gave us +any trouble, but they caused us at times to screen our eyes and miss +the view. The valley, now at its widest, with pastures high up on the +hills seemingly as fertile as those beside the river, all bright with +flowers or studded with well-leaved trees, spoke of peace and +prosperity. It would have been hard indeed to imagine a huge and +ferocious bear appearing among such cultivation, although the valley +still retains its ancient name, signifying that it was once the resort +of these animals; but a "dancing bear" is the only specimen of the race +seen about there now. + +At half-past eleven we passed through the village of Bélesten (20 +miles), and a little beyond, when once more among the fields, came in +view of a curious sight. Among the many fields, variously cultivated, +was a square one dotted over with small manure heaps in rows. On the +top of several of the heaps, native aprons (belonging, we presumed, to +girls at work in the vicinity) were neatly placed. Was this a new +fashion of rearing mushrooms, or a native invention for the propagation +of aprons? No one could say, so we have given it up! + +Further on we noticed a lovely little village among the trees on the +hillside to the left; our coachman called it Louvie la Haute, and we +have heard no other name, as it is too insignificant to be mentioned in +a guide-book. + +One peculiarity of this valley seemed to be the wearing of frilled +gaiters or leggings by the women. They seem to supply the place of +stockings and shoes, being visible from just below the knee, and +descending well over the instep, so as to hide everything but the toes. + +It must have been market-day at Laruns (233/4 miles), for when we +arrived there at noon the streets were so full of carts and people that +it was a matter of difficulty to get past. If the extra bustle had +betokened one of the fêtes, of which the chief is held on August 15th +annually, we should have been far from disposed to grumble, since it is +at these Laruns fêtes alone now that the old picturesque Ossalois +costumes can be seen. M. Doré has depicted a few natives in these +costumes at their devotions in the ancient church that stood beside the +route; but no one is likely to do so again, as the edifice--when we +passed it--was falling into ruins and looked in a deplorable condition, +the finely-sculptured doorway being partly hidden by the fallen débris. +But not only the church, but more or less the whole village, seemed in +a tumble-down condition, and this appeared to us especially strange, as +everywhere around prosperity seemed to reign; and further, since the +railway from Pau, which was to be opened this year, appeared nearly +completed, the fact of Laruns being the terminus at this end of the +valley ought to render it yet more prosperous. + +Just inside the village we crossed the bridge over the almost dry bed +of the Arricuzé (beyond which the old road to Eaux Chaudes branches off +to the right), and then traversing the Gave d'Ossau, we continued under +the trees along the ancient route to Eaux Bonnes. But not for many +minutes, for, where the old road which leads to the Bear Grotto also +begins to ascend, the new route strikes up to the right, and continues +with an easy gradient to the point where it forks (24 miles), the +continuation to the right leading to Eaux Chaudes, and the branch to +the left--which we followed--to Eaux Bonnes. + +[Illustration] + +No pains have been spared to render the remainder of the journey +attractive to either the rider or the pedestrian, and to us the drive +up the broad zigzags, planted with plane trees, silver beech, ash, +polonia, aspen, arbutus, burberis, and innumerable other handsome trees +and shrubs, was a pleasant one indeed. One rocky bit on the right of +the way, completely overhung with beautiful ivy, seemed to us +especially picturesque. Admiring thus all the poetic touches in form or +colouring as we passed, we suddenly, and almost without warning, found +ourselves entering Eaux Bonnes (271/2 miles), and but a very few +moments more sufficed for our conveyance to the excellent Hôtel de +France, where the hostess was ready to receive us. + +It would, indeed, be hard to find a more charmingly compact little town +than Eaux Bonnes, anywhere: a perfect little miniature, very happily +situated and beautifully clean and neat. What more could an invalid +desire? Why, the very beauty of the surroundings ought to act +perceptibly on the constitution, and when baths and perpetual tumblers +of the rotten-egg fluid are indulged in besides, a perfect cure +_must_ be guaranteed. + +It requires but few words to describe the shape and appearance of the +place, but to convey an _accurate_ idea to the reader is, we are +afraid, a very difficult matter. The town is triangular in +shape--almost an isosceles triangle, in fact--and this triangle is +formed by the shape of the gorge, whose rocky, tree-clothed sides +overlook it. Fine rows of hotels and restaurants, and other +buildings--mostly let as furnished apartments--form the outer edge of +the triangle. A good road separates these from the Jardin Darralde, +which is likewise triangular, and planted with trees and shrubs in the +most agreeable manner, both for neatness and shade. In the centre is +the band-stand, and a bed of roses surrounds it. This is a general +description, but it does not speak of beauty, and we thought that Eaux +Bonnes was undoubtedly a beautiful place. + +Suppose a triangular slice were cut out of Hyde Park, combining some +leafy trees and a pleasant flower-bed with a band-stand added, and +hotels and restaurants were erected around it; then, that it were +transported to a narrow part of the Llanberis Pass under the very frown +of Snowdon; and snow should fall on the surrounding summits; and +magnificent beech groves and cascades appear down the wild slopes +below, some idea of what Eaux Bonnes is like might be gained; but even +then it would be little more than an idea. + +It certainly has not the grandeur of Cauterets, the freedom of St. +Sauveur, or the expansive loveliness of Luchon. It is hemmed in by the +surrounding heights, of which, at the head of the Sourde (or Soude) +valley (in which it lies) the magnificent Pic de Ger is most +conspicuous, and doubtless this renders it a "warm retreat" in summer; +but to see it as we saw it, with the sun shining on the rain-spangled +leaves of the trees in the Jardin Darralde, on the lighter green of the +beeches above, and glinting through the foam of the "Valentin" +cascades; with no invalids, no gallant French horsemen, no +gaily-dressed women, but only a few peasants dotted here and there, at +work, to give life to the scene--to see it, in short, as it is in +spring, can only give rise to pleasant feelings, which would mellow +into pleasanter and more appreciative memories! + +The amount of rain we had during our stay was only sufficient to cool +the heated atmosphere and lay the dust; but Eaux Bonnes has rather a +watery reputation, and many are the times that the visitors become +victims to a shower, returning from their "constitutional" or their +visit to the baths. + +When we arrived the hotel had only been open a very short time, as the +"season" was far from beginning, and the only other occupants, as +visitors, were a rather stout man and a fat, jovial-visaged priest. We +discovered them in the billiard-room as the priest was just in the +throes of a most simple cannon, and our entrance appeared to damage his +play, while his face rather lengthened, as though he felt ashamed at +having been surprised at a worldly game. This may have been our fancy, +as he was certainly the first R.C. priest we had seen with a cue in his +hand; perhaps, however, he will not be the last. + +After this we lunched, and after that, left the hotel and walked up the +main road towards the Sourde Gorge, passing a choice marble shop, the +bathing establishment, the church, and the town-hall. Beyond this +last-named building the gorge narrows and extends to the base of the +Pic de Ger (8571 ft.). Leaving this on our right, we followed the +Promenade de l'Imperatrice, that ascends above the town-hall, till the +path leading to the little kiosque--built on the summit of a rocky +eminence called the "Butte du Trésor"--branched off to the right. + +The view from the little pavilion is indeed a gratifying one, for +though not extended, it is so entirely choice and picturesque; while +the name of the eminence on which it stands, and from which some of the +healing springs are said to rise, is decidedly appropriate, since there +can be no doubt that they have proved a "mine of wealth" to several, +although, as M. Taine remarks, it is "grotesque that a little hot water +should have caused the introduction of civilised cooking in its very +cauldrons." + +Descending from the kiosque, we continued along the Route de +l'Imperatrice, over which the beeches and other trees made a pleasant +shade. This is a special walk for invalids, as it is constructed in +zigzags of the easiest gradient, and while being both sheltered from +west winds and open to the sun, it also commands at various points a +good view of the River Valentin, the lower or Discoo Cascade, and the +bridge which spans it; as well as the Route Thermale to Argelès, which +follows the right bank of the river. + +[Illustration: CASCADE DU VALENTIN.] + +Most of the numerous cascades in the neighbourhood--thanks to the +engineering of the "Empress's Walk" and the road to Argelès--are in +easy walking distance for most people, even invalids; those usually +visited being the Cascade des Eaux Bonnes, de Discoo, du Gros-Hêtre and +du Serpent; the Cascade de Larsessec (33/4 miles) requires some fatigue +to reach. + +The road leading from the river back to the Hôtel de France passes +between two walls of rock against which the houses are built. This +passage has been made by blasting the solid rock, and it seemed that +the work had been one of no small difficulty. + +All great excursions were denied us, as neither the Pic de Ger nor the +fatiguing Pic de Gabizos were sufficiently free from snow; while the +road to Argelès still remained broken down in three places, and it +seemed as though July would disappear ere the terrible gaps made by the +avalanches could be built up anew. + +We started for Eaux Chaudes in the cool of the afternoon, anticipating +a pleasant drive, and were very far from being disappointed. After +retraversing the road to the branching point above Laruns--near which +the fields and banks were rich in gentians, violets, scabii, +_linariae_, and columbines--we seemed suddenly to plunge into the +Gorge de Hourat. There can be little doubt that there is no truer +specimen of a gorge in the Pyrenees than this. The piled-up crags +overgrown with heather, and the splendid pastures above on the +hill-tops, seen in the Cauterets Gorge, were missing; so, too, the +varied tints and softer landscape bits of the St. Sauveur defile were +absent; but here the masses of rock rose straight up on either side, at +times seemingly ambitious to hide their summits in the clouds; while +the roar of the torrent issuing from the Hourat (or Trou, _i.e._ +hole) above which the road passes, only served to heighten the grand +effect of the scene. + +Just after the narrowest part is passed, a small chapel may be noticed +high above the river on the right. It marks the scene of a frightful +accident. The old road, which was in use till 1849, passed by the spot, +and a heavily-laden diligence full of passengers overturned--through +the horses taking fright, it is said--and the whole complement were +dashed over the rocks into the torrent below. The chapel has since been +erected, but though the old road still exists, and, in fact, joins the +new one at the Pont Crabé--which beautiful place is admirably depicted +in the sketch--there is little danger of such an accident occurring +again. + +A little further on--viz. about two miles from Eaux Chaudes--we noticed +below us as charming a subject as any painter could wish for. A small +plot of velvet-like green-sward beside the rushing river; some trees, +leafy almost to extravagance, gracefully arched above; a few sheep +descending a narrow track on the hillside; and above all, the immense +rocky heights, around the base of which beeches and other trees +luxuriantly grew, and many beautiful flowers bloomed; and, thus +garlanded at their base, their stern and massive summits looked grander +still, and completed such a picture of majestic beauty as no lover of +nature could fail to enthusiastically admire. + +One mile further there is another fine sight, though not of the +comprehensive beauty of that just mentioned. This one doubtless is not +worth seeing in mid-summer, when the sun has dried up the mountain +streams, but when _we_ passed that way we could see from the very +summit of the hill--above which the pointed Pic de Laruns reared its +crest--a mass of foam issuing from between two rocks, no puny +meandering streamlet, but a strong torrent, which, as it dashed from +rock to rock, gathered strength and velocity till it rushed amid a +cloud of spray into the river below. + +[Illustration: CRABÉ BRIDGE, IN THE EAUX CHAUDES GORGE.] + +We saw one or two gentlemen--evidently early visitors like +ourselves--anxiously whipping the river for fish, but they caught +nothing; in fact, they told us afterwards that it was done with hardly +any hopes of catching, since the "professional"--save the name--element +came out with rods and nets, so that if the rods didn't answer they +could net the pools instead. It seemed to us a remarkably good thing +that "professionals" can't do the same in England! + +There is another lovely scene not half a mile away from the town, where +a path leads from the road to the riverside. There is a plot of +green-sward here, and a grove of trees; and the river passes under a +bridge, that vibrates with the force of the torrent surging against its +rocky base. The path over the bridge leads through the leafy glades on +the heights that overlook the river, and the town may be regained by +crossing another bridge higher up. + +Soon after, we were entering Eaux Chaudes (271/2 miles), and having +passed the Hôtel de France on the left, and the gardens and bathing +establishment on the right, we drove up to the Hôtel Baudot and were +courteously received by Madame. + +It appeared that we had arrived a day too late, as the marriage of +Madame's niece with the hotel _chef_ had been celebrated the day +before, and wonderful festivities had taken place in their honour; +while the guests in the hotel (fortunately not more than eight in +number) had been regaled with champagne and many choice dishes. + +While waiting for dinner we strolled about on the terrace, opening out +of the dining-room and overlooking the river. It did not need the boxes +of bright flowers that lined the terrace sides to entice us there, but +they certainly added to the delightful picture of river and trees; and +as one face reminds us of another, so this scene carried our memory +back to another, but a more lovely one even, because the beauty of the +trees was heightened by large bushes of azaleas--bright with +various-coloured blooms--growing between. But beauty and comfort do not +always go together, and for calm enjoyment this Pyrenean scene had the +preference; for the other was in the heart of Japan, at the tiny +village of Sakurazawa, and we gazed on the picture through the open +_shoji_, [Footnote: Sliding screens, being frames of wood pasted +over with paper, acting as doors and windows.] lying on the neat but +hard--very hard--mats, that were our tables, chairs, and beds in one; +which our host's assurance, that the Mikado himself had slept upon them +the year previous, didn't make any softer. The announcement of dinner +cut short further musings, and we took our places at the table, +profusely adorned with evidences of the previous day's ceremony. + +At a table-d'hôte of eight or ten people conversation is as a rule easy +and general. It requires a so-called "typical Englishman" to keep +himself within himself, in a shroud of pride and reserve, and the +"typical Englishman" is, thank goodness, nearly out of date. We were +very anxious to learn about the plateau above Gabas. Was this plateau +really worth seeing; and if so, when was it best to start? Everybody +was ready to give their version of the trip, but Mr. and Mrs. Tubbins +(if we recollect rightly) seemed the most anxious to speak. Mrs. T. was +simply a combination of bolsters which shook with the exertion of +speech, while poor Mr. T., a meek, thin, haggard-looking man--and no +wonder--seemed to be ready to put in a word if required, but looked in +momentary terror of getting a snub instead. + +This look was not an unnecessary one; for Mrs. T., with all her anxiety +to give information, did not get on very fast, and made many mistakes +in names, &c., which her worse-half tried to rectify, with the result +that she turned on him with "Frank, I wish you wouldn't interrupt; you +are quite wrong, you know!" + +However, from the general company we managed to gather a good deal of +information, which, as a cloudy day spoilt our own trip thither on the +morrow, it may be expedient to repeat. Gabas is only a hamlet of a few +houses, and is in itself uninteresting. Situated five miles from Eaux +Chaudes, it is reached by a good carriage road, which, crossing the +Pont d'Enfer, continues along the left bank of the river the rest of +the way, the views being chiefly of granite summits and thick pine +forests. But though Gabas makes an excellent resting-place or +starting-point for several excursions, no one stays there for any other +reason, and tourists from Eaux Chaudes usually pass it on the way to +the Plateau des Bious-Artigues or to Panticosa. The road forks at +Gabas, and becomes no longer anything but a bridle path, the right +branch leading to the plateau, the other passing by the Broussette +valley, across the Spanish frontier, to Panticosa. The plateau is +reached in one hour and a half, not without exertion, and the view over +the Pic du Midi d'Ossau is considered wonderfully fine. Several of our +informants, however, had chosen bad days, and after all their labour, +found a thick mist over everything that was worth seeing. Among these +Mrs. Tubbins had figured, and her goodman had suffered in consequence. +"The idea," she said, "of bringing me all this way, and at my time of +life too, simply to see a mist, as if I hadn't seen plenty of them at +home!" Of course she had come of her own accord, and the meek and +injured one had followed as a matter of course. + +[Illustration: THE BIOUS-ARTIGUES.] + +The journey from Gabas to Panticosa requires a good twelve hours, and +generally more; consequently an early start is advisable. It is a +favourite way of entering Spain, and much more practicable than the +route from Cauterets to the same spot. + +Of Eaux Chaudes itself there is but little to say, for with the +exception of the hotels, the bathing establishment, and a few shops, +there is nothing to form a town. Like Eaux Bonnes it is shut in by the +mountains on either side, but it is more oblong in shape, with two +parallel streets. The Promenade du Henri IV., which leads southwards +from the Hôtel Baudot along the side of the river, is a cool and +pleasant walk, especially of an evening. + +Various opinions exist as to which place is most suitable for a +residence, the "Bonnes" or the "Chaudes." In spring probably the +former, but the latter certainly in summer; for not only is it free +from the bustling, gaily-dressed crowd which throngs its rival, but +there is a fresh breeze that blows up the valley which renders it +always cool and pleasant; while the scenery is as fine as the most +fastidious could wish for. + +The Col de Gourzy and the lofty Pic of the same name tower above Eaux +Chaudes, and a route to Eaux Bonnes--which to good pedestrians is well +worth the exertion--passes over the former. The path strikes off from +the Gabas road to the left, while yet in the town, and passes by the +Minvieille "buvette." For the first half-hour the route is the same as +that to the Eaux Chaudes grotto; this is an excursion, of two hours +there and back, that is in great favour with tourists. Where the path +forks, the one to the grotto is left on the right, and after some +fatiguing work the Plateau de Gourzy is reached, from which the view on +a fine day is splendid. The track then leads through beech glades and +box thickets to the "Fontaine de Lagas" (near which a wild and +beautiful valley branches off to the right), and finally joins the +Promenade Jacqueminot at Eaux Bonnes. Horses may be taken the whole +distance, but it is easier for them--if tourists choose this +highly-recommended route--when the start is made from Eaux Bonnes. + +It rained severely early on the morning of our departure, but later, +cleared up into a lovely day, enabling us to start at 8.30. The river +and the cascades were full, and the sun glinting on the wet leaves gave +a fairy-like appearance to this magnificent gorge. As we looked back +from the cascade, which seemed to tumble from the summit of the Pic de +Laruns, the clouds gradually rising over the head of the valley +disclosed a huge snow mountain [Footnote: The "cocher" called it the +Pic d'Estremère, but we had no confirmation of this] to view, that +appeared to form an impassable barrier 'twixt France and Spain. + +When we reached Laruns we had a fine view of its pointed peak, and +through the morning haze the lofty Pic de Ger over Eaux Bonnes looked +imposing indeed. Travelling we found very pleasant. There was no dust, +the air was cool, the roads just soft enough for comfort, and the whole +valley refreshed with the morning's rain. The people in the fields +worked with greater energy, and the bright scarlet hoods of the +damsels, many of whom followed the plough, gave a pleasant colouring to +an animated scene. We passed several flocks of geese, apparently +unwilling to proceed at as rapid a pace as the good woman--with her +frilled gaiters--who was in charge of them wished; but with those +exceptions we hardly met anybody or anything on the road till we had +passed Louvie. + +What we then met were a couple of carts filled with coal, and as we +never recollected having seen any such peculiar teams as they were +drawn by, we concluded they were "Ossalois," and "peculiar" to the +valley. There were eight animals to each cart, four bulls and four +horses. The bulls were harnessed in pairs (as in a four-in-hand coach), +and acted as wheelers, while the horses, acting as leaders, were +harnessed in line, one in front of another. Curious as this arrangement +seemed, they made good progress with a very heavy load! + +[Illustration: THE PIC DE GER.] + +At Sévignac a splendid Guelder rose-tree grew in a small garden over a +mill stream, and a very ancient dame very willingly sold us some +clusters which were peculiarly fine; in another garden a very fine bush +of white _cistus_ was completely covered with blooms. The +hedgerows, too, were bright with flowers; the wild Guelder roses and +medlars [Footnote: The "makilahs," or slicks peculiar to the Basque +people, are made from the wild medlar. They are very heavy, tipped with +iron, and unpleasant to carry.] preponderating, but elder bushes were +also plentiful, and covered with blossoms. + +At Rébenac we stopped at the Hôtel du Périgord for coffee and a fifteen +minutes' rest, the horses not requiring any more, as the day was so +cool. While drinking the "welcome liquid" we watched an old woman out +of the window, spinning. Her distaff was apparently very old and dirty, +and as she span she seemed to be crooning some ancient ditty to +herself, thinking, maybe, of her children and grandchildren, or even of +the days when she was herself a child. + +We started again when the quarter of an hour was up, and bowled along +towards Gan, meeting on the way several natives (men) with their hair +in long pigtails, like Chinamen; they looked otherwise decidedly +_Béarnais_, but their appearance was peculiar, to say the least of +it. Beyond Gan we passed into full view of the lovely Coteaux, which +afford such pleasant rides and drives from Pau, and as we gradually +neared the town, the heat seemed to intensify to anything but a +pleasurable degree. + +Four hours forty minutes after starting we were once more under the +roof of Maison Colbert, with such a luncheon before us as fully +justified the hospitable repute that it has always borne. + +But Pau was far too hot for us to remain for more than a few days, +although the heat was unusually great for that time of the year, and we +were very glad when once more on our journey towards the pleasant +breezes and blue waters of the Biscay. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +BIARRITZ. + +A warm ride--Bayonne--A "Noah's ark" landscape--Amusements +--Bathing--Shells--Cavillers--A canine feat--The pier and rocks--A +restless sea--"The Three Cormorants"--Dragon's-mouth Rock--To the +lighthouse--Maiden-hair ferns--Mrs. Blunt's adventure--The drive round +the lakes--_Osmunda regalis_ ferns--The pine-woods near the +bar--St. Etienne and the Guards' cemetery--Croix de Mouguère--Cambo and +the Pas de Roland--Anemones--A fat couple--A French scholar +--Hendaye--Fuenterabia--A quaint old-world town--The Bidassoa +--Pasages--San Sebastien--The Citadol and graves--The "Silent +Sisters"--Raised prices--Parasols and spectacles. + + +The journey to Biarritz began comfortably enough, but after the first +few miles the heat became very oppressive, and though we had no +repetition of our Montrejeau experience at starting, we felt +nevertheless almost as warm as if we had. + +Our arrival at Bayonne was a great relief, for the sun had partially +retired, and as we crossed in turn the Adour and the Nive, a scent of +the "briny" was borne into our omnibus with revivifying effect. Passing +up one of the narrow old streets to execute a few commissions, we +regained the "Place," crossed the drawbridge, and entered the lovely +avenues, from which, beyond the "fosse," the twin towers of the +beautiful cathedral come into view. On the right is the station of the +"steam tram-line," and some hundred yards beyond it the road to +Biarritz curves in the same direction. + +This road cannot be called beautiful! The never-ending line of poplars +along each side turn the landscape into that Noah's ark style which +even the soul that could be "contented with a tulip or lily" would +hardly admire. Approaching Biarritz, however, the handsome villas and +their gardens fully deserve the epithet which cannot in justice be +applied to the road. They are indeed beautiful; and to pass them even +in winter, with the camellia trees laden with blossoms and the roses +scenting the air, makes comparison with our London gardens very odious +indeed! + +Under the small-gauge railway-bridge, and past the new "English Club," +we soon entered the town, [Footnote: The distance between Bayonne and +Biarritz is 5 miles.] and driving down the Rue Mazagran into the Place +Sainte Eugenie, drew up at the familiar Hôtel de Paris, in time for +dinner. + +Although Biarritz is in the department of the Basses-Pyrénées, it is so +far away from the mountains that many might consider its introduction +into this volume as questionable; we do not therefore intend to say as +much as could be said about it. At the same time, it is so greatly +recommended by doctors as a beneficial spot for a final "brace up" +before returning to England, after a mountain trip, and is, besides, +such a favourite winter residence, that we consider it would be more +"questionable" to omit it. + +Unlike Pau, its amusements are not of a very varied character. In +winter, lawn-tennis and balls are the chief, and concerts occur +generally weekly or bi-weekly. As spring asserts herself, bathing +commences and picnics become the fashion; and in the early summer--as +long as the English remain--tennis and bathing go almost hand-in-hand. + +The tennis-ground--which is only a short distance from the English +church of St. Andrew's--is well laid out and commodious, possessing an +excellent reading room for members' use, as well. Of bathing +establishments there are three; the large building in the Moorish style +on the Plage, the less pretentious but more picturesque one in the Port +Vieux, and the least pretentious and least protected one, under the +"falaises" [Footnote: Blue chalk cliffs.] beyond. + +The first and last are only used in the height of summer; that in the +Port Vieux--from its sheltered position--opens its box-doors as soon as +winter really gives place to spring. The scene, when the tide is high +on a morning in June, is often an exceedingly pretty one, for to the +pristine picturesqueness of the surroundings is added those touches of +human nature enjoying itself, which, if it doesn't "make us kin," goes +a long way towards it. + +The "Port Vieux" is triangular in shape, with the apex inland, along +the sides of which the boxes are erected, reaching to the water's edge +at high tide. In the middle lies an expanse of deep sand, and the blue +waters roll in between the rocks and gently break on a shingly beach, +where the tiniest shells and pebbles mingle to make the one drop of +bitterness in the bather's cup. + +When the sandy expanse is crowded with merry children, the roads and +seats above filled with spectators, and the water with members of both +sexes in varied costumes and "headgears"--not forgetting the boatman in +the tiny skiff who is here, there, and everywhere in case he is +needed--the scene is a very pleasant one to look upon. Of course there +are always some narrow-minded individuals to find fault, some "maiden" +aunts "with spinster written on their brows," who will put up their +gold-rimmed glasses with that peculiar sniff that invariably prefaces +some _extra sweet_ remarks, such as, "Dear me, how wicked! Men and +women bathing together in that barefaced manner; and ... I do believe +there's that forward Miss Dimplechin actually taking hold of Captain +Smith's hand, and he a married man too! Thank goodness, I never did +such a thing--never!" [Footnote: Did she ever have the chance?] + +Above the Port Vieux, on the left, stands Cape Atalaya, with the ruins +of an ancient tower, and a flagstaff on its summit. A road leads round +its base, passing between a circular mound overlooking the "old +harbour," and the yard where the concrete blocks are fashioned for the +strengthening of the pier. + +There are seats on this mound, whence people can watch the bathing; and +we often saw a remarkable feat performed from it as well. A race of +wonderful water-dogs--said to be a cross between the Newfoundland and +the French poodle--is bred at St. Jean de Luz, eight miles from +Biarritz. One of their uses is to drive the fish into the nets, and for +this purpose one is taken in every boat that puts to sea. The method is +extremely simple. As soon as the net surrounds a shoal, the dog is put +in the centre, and by beating the water with his paws he effectually +drives the finny creatures into the meshes. It was one of this same +species of dogs that attracted so much attention at the Port Vieux by +leaping after a stick from the mound--a distance of some fifty +feet--into the sea. He would do it as often as his master would let +him, and appeared to enjoy it immensely, though he always reached the +water before the stick, and had then to turn round and hunt for it. + +The road, after skirting one side of the yard, crosses the trackway +that runs down the pier and doubles up the other side, through the +tunnel and past the Port aux Pêcheurs, into the Place Ste. Eugénie; +whence, continuing by the base of the Hôtel d'Angleterre and the +casino, it extends to the bathing establishment on the Plage. In the +other direction it rounds the Port Vieux, and leads under the cliffs to +the other resort of summer bathers; consequently, it might be +appropriately termed the "Chemin des Bains." + +The pier is a very favourite resort, and many a fierce fight with the +waves is enacted at its extremity, in which, alas! the sea has always +proved the stronger. As a rule, visitors are not permitted to pass the +"Cucurlon" rock, on which the Virgin's statue stands; but if the +weather is very fine, the gate is opened to admit of any who are so +minded going to the end. On a wild day, with a high wind blowing +inland, the "battle of the waves" is a fine sight, especially from the +platform erected below the flagstaff on Cape Atalaya. Thence the full +beauty of the huge billows, dashing into clouds of spray against the +pier, and, unallayed, pursuing their course with relentless energy till +they boom amid the hollow caverns of the hill, may be admired and +wondered at. + +There are two rocks which (as one looks seaward) rise up to the left of +the pier, and serve to break in some measure the force of the waves. +The larger of these in calm weather is frequented by cormorants, and +has gained the name of "Cormorant Rock." There were three of these +birds on it one very rough day, and we saw a scene enacted which--with +due apologies to the late Rev. Charles Kingsley for thus adapting his +pathetic verses--we have commemorated in the following lines, under the +title of + +"THE THREE CORMORANTS." + + Three cormorant dandies were perch'd on a rock, + Were perch'd on a rock as the waves dash'd high; + Each thought himself equal to any black cock, + And proudly determined the sea to defy. + For cormorants fish, and cormorants catch, + And they swallow their prey with the utmost despatch, + Without all the trouble of boning! + + Three cormorant damsels were waiting at home, + Were waiting at home for the dandies so dear. + "Oh, say! are they fishing where fierce billows foam?" + And the damsels sat chattering their bills with fear! + For cormorant maidens _can fish_ and _can catch_, + And each one considered she'd made a good match. + And now for her dandy was moaning. + + Three cormorant dandies were washed off the rock, + Were washed off the rock by a powerful wave; + And, quite unprepared for the terrible shock, + They sank in the depths of a watery grave. + For cormorants fish, and cormorants catch, + But if waves dash high they should use despatch, + Or their loved ones will always be groaning! + +There are some curious rocks in front of the new harbour, notably the +"Dragon's-mouth Rock," through which on a rough day the water +continuously pours; more to the right, between this and the "Plage," is +a curious group known as the "Chinaougue." [Footnote: Have never found +any one able to account for this title, which is more barbaric than +pronounceable.] A bridge communicates with the largest, on which +"petticoat daffodils" grow, and the couples that may occasionally be +seen going over there _doubtless_ do so to gather these. Beyond +the Port Vieux and underneath the Villa Belzar other curious formations +may be seen, to which an iron gate at the head of a few damaged steps +gives access. + +At Biarritz itself there is really nothing to be seen except the sea. +And yet this sea is so beautiful in its varied moods, that a lover of +nature can watch it day after day for any reasonable period, without a +feeling of _ennui_ or a wish for anything more lovely! + +[Illustration: THE ROCKS OF BIARRITZ.] + +There are many pleasant walks and drives around, but most of them +require a whole day, and are more preferable as a drive than as a walk. +The shortest is to the lighthouse and back, and this is only a very +easy promenade, taking about an hour; so we will deal with it first, +leaving the longer ones to await their turn. + +We started one afternoon when the sky was cloudless and the coastline +very clear, hoping to obtain a good view of the Spanish coast, and a +few specimens of maiden-hair fern, if fortune were favourable. We +traversed half the town, when Mrs. Blunt suddenly came to a halt +opposite the Hôtel de France, and pointed to a three-wheeled vehicle of +the bath-chair type, to which a weird and very ancient-looking steed +was attached. "I think," said she, "that would be more comfortable for +me than walking; please inquire if it is on hire." So we applied to a +fat dame, who was busily knitting hard by, and having arranged terms, +Mrs. Blunt got in and we continued our way. + +Down past the bank and at an easy pace to what was once the Villa +Eugénie, [Footnote: This building, where Emperor and Empress lived at +different times, now belongs to a company under the title of the +"Palais Biarritz," and is employed as a casino and restaurant. "Sic +transit gloria imperatorum."] and continuing up the hill at the same +speed, we gradually drew near the lighthouse, and when once the Villa +Noailles was left behind and the level road reached again, we were soon +at our destination. [Footnote: At low tide there is a way to the +lighthouse along the beach in front of the Palais Biarritz, and up a +steep path over the rocks. The other is much the better way, however, +at all times.] The view of the coast to St. Jean de Luz, San Sebastien, +and almost to Santander, was peculiarly good, as well as that on the +other side in the direction of Bayonne; and while Mrs. Blunt remained +in contemplation from her vehicle, we descended to view the rocks and +caves below. + +As a rule it is unwise to disclose where botanical treasures grow, as +they generally become extinct soon afterwards, from excess of +admiration on the part of collectors; but the maiden-hair ferns, for +which the lighthouse rocks are known, can take very fair care of +themselves, as they grow in such awkward positions--we might say +dangerous--that only a few real enthusiasts, or an anxious collector +with a _steady head_, are likely to venture to attack their +strongholds. + +[Illustration: VILLA EUGÉNIE.] + +We saw many specimens in the interstices of the rocks surrounding a +moss-grown pool, but they were quite unapproachable. One clump above we +did manage to reach and bear away a few roots of, in triumph; but at +one time there was only two inches of stone for the foot to rest on, +with sheer rocks below; and consequently, without a rope, the +experiment would hardly be worth repetition. However, without mishap we +started on our return journey, and all went smoothly till the Villa +Noailles was again reached; but at this point we suddenly noticed that +Mrs. Blunt was rapidly out-distancing us. Whether the ancient steed +dreamt of its former youth and activity, and "grew young once more," or +whether its long rest had made it anxious to reach its stable, we know +not; but the unpleasant reality was forced upon us, that it was rapidly +bearing Mrs. Blunt away. Miss Blunt had been walking near the vehicle, +Mr. Sydney and rather behind; but as Miss Blunt started to run, we +rapidly followed, and overtook the steed, which, having by that time +pulled up at the bottom of the hill, appeared to be anxious to turn +round and have a look at Mrs. Blunt. As it neighed at the same time, +perhaps it was asking, "Who's my driver?" but this was mere conjecture +on our part, although we were not sorry to restore the animal to the +fat old lady--still knitting--and escort Mrs. Blunt back to the hotel, +none the worse for her little adventure! + +[Illustration: SCENE I.--BEFORE THE START.] + +[Illustration: SCENE 2.--THE ANCIENT STEED GREW YOUNG ONCE MORE.] + +[Illustration: SCENE 3.--WHO'S MY DRIVER?] + +The favourite of the short drives is known as the "Tour des Lacs." It +embraces the prettiest country in the vicinity, and the whole distance +is about six miles. We found it most pleasant to start, after lunch, +from the Place de la Mairie, turning up the Rue Gambetta past the +market and on to the "Falaises," where the sea-breeze blows fresh and +free. Keeping to the right where the road forks, the "abattoir" was +soon left behind and the Villa Marbella reached; we then curved round +"Lac Chabiague," and ascending slightly between fields gay with the +"fleur des frontières" [Footnote: A lovely blue flower, something like +a gentian.] and the wild daphne, we dipped again slightly to the point +where the road to St. Jean de Luz forks to the right. Bearing to the +left between hedges overgrown with _sarsaparilla_, and entering a +shady lane, a few minutes sufficed for us to reach the "Bois de +Boulogne," where the road skirts the Lake Mouriscot, and passes beside +many splendid clumps of the _Osmunda regalis_ fern. The lake is +very deep and full of fish; but bathing is certainly not advisable, as +there is a great quantity of reeds and weeds all round the water's +edge. + +Leaving the pleasant woods, we emerged on to the Route Imperiale--the +direct road from the Negresse station (on the main line to Spain) to +Biarritz--and following it as far as the metals, we turned to the left +up the Irun-Bayonne route. This, however, was not our road for long, as +we took the first turning on the left-hand side up a pretty lane, which +brought Lake Marion into full view. The other end of the lane joins the +"Route Imperiale" again; which, leading in turn past the cemetery, the +parish church, and the terminus of the "steam tram-line," enters the +town near the International Bank. + +It will be noticed that there are several ways of reaching Bayonne. The +cheapest and most expeditious, for marketing or other business +purposes, is by the narrow-gauge railway, with its curious double +carriages, one above the other. By driving the two miles to the +Negresse station, and catching the express from Spain, is another way, +but one not recommended to anybody but travellers [Footnote: Travellers +for the Pau line have to change at Bayonne, consequently it is simpler +for them to drive the five miles from Biarritz direct to Bayonne, than +drive two to the Negresse station, with the necessity of changing ten +minutes after entering the train.] going to stations on the line +between Bayonne and Paris. Of the three routes for driving we have +already mentioned the most frequented one--at the commencement of the +chapter; from the Negresse station by the Bayonne-Irun road is another; +and the last and prettiest passes behind the Villa Eugénie almost to +the lighthouse, but there branches off to the right past the Chambre +d'Amour inn, to the pine-woods near La Barre, and thence into Bayonne! +This drive may be prolonged in two directions: firstly, by crossing the +Nive and the Adour to the Guards' cemetery (where those who fell in the +sortie from Bayonne 1813-14, are buried) at St. Etienne; and secondly, +by following the bank of the river for some distance (past the market), +and turning up into the country by way of St. Pierre to the Croix de +Mouguère. This latter makes a splendid picnic, and the locality is a +rich hunting-ground for entomologists. + +There are four other excursions that we must not omit to mention, viz., +Cambo and the Pas de Roland, St. Jean de Luz, Fuenterabia, and San +Sebastien. All of these, with the exception of the first, can be +reached by _rail_, and as far as St. Jean de Luz the _road_ +from Biarritz [Footnote: There is a more direct route to Cambo from +Bayonne.] is common to all; so that to save space we will only mention +it on our way to Cambo. + +Starting at an early hour with plenty of provisions, we bowled down to +the Negresse station, crossed the line, and ascended the hill above +Lake Mouriscot, at the top of which Bidart--the first of the Basque +villages--comes into view. + +Guétary (3 miles), standing on a hill to the southward, was next seen, +and in due time we reached St. Jean de Luz (8 miles), a town of over +4000 inhabitants (possessing a very good hotel and baths, and some +historical buildings), situated on a strip of sand between the River +Nivelle and the sea. Here the road to Cambo branched off to the left, +inland--the high road to Spain continuing near the seaboard--and +frequently skirting the Nivelle as far as St. Pée, we passed on by +Espelette to Cambo. The Hôtel St. Martin there, which generally +attracts visitors for a few days at least, was not our destination; so +we took a glimpse at Fagalde's celebrated chocolate factory and the old +churchyard high above the river--while our horses were being +changed--and then resumed our journey to the Pas de Roland. [Footnote: +So-called from the fable that Roland, coming to the place and wishing +to cross, found the rocks barring his passage, so kicked them, +whereupon they parted for him to pass between.] The scenery now became +very charming, the winding river (Nive) adding much to the general +beauty, especially where it dashed out from between the rugged rocks of +the gorge with which Roland's name is associated. + +After exploring this narrow pass we found a suitable place for luncheon +and sat down. + +In returning, we halted near the village of Itsatsou, to gather some of +the lovely scarlet anemones [Footnote: A fee of 1 franc for one person, +or 2 francs for three, is expected for admission into the fields.] +which grow near there, and cover the fields with such a blaze of colour +as makes them conspicuous from a long distance. The rest of the journey +in the cool of the afternoon was very pleasant, but our route was the +same till reaching Bidart, where we curved to the left, and came by a +branch road (previously mentioned), _viá_ the Villa Marbella and +the Falaises, back to our hotel. + +At dinner that night we noticed that there had evidently been some +"goings and comings" among the guests; and doubtless the new arrivals +were congratulating themselves on having succeeded in getting rooms in +the hotel--for be it understood this good house is nearly always full, +as it deserves to be. We missed with sorrow the familiar forms of Mr. +and Mrs. Berecasque, who, with all their bigoted hatred for anything +approaching to High Church notions, were as a rule exceedingly genial +and good-natured, as fat people usually are. + +The ladies certainly used to say that Madame had a perplexing way of +putting leading questions as to why somebody's daughter went with +somebody else's son, or what on earth could that nice gentlemanly young +curate (Low Church of course) see in that fast young lady who was +always working banners and such like enormities? But we never noticed +this; though that which on this particular evening probably no one +could fail to notice was, that their places were now occupied by a +couple of beings as strikingly thin as Mr. and Mrs. Berecasque had been +fat. We were told their name, but there was rather a buzz of +conversation going on at the time, and we might not have caught it +properly, but it certainly sounded like "Grouser." However, that does +not matter much; what is far more to the point is the amusement that +Mr. Grouser gave to those who had the privilege of sitting near him. +Apparently a self-made man, without any children--who by better +educations might have helped him to knowledge--his acquaintance with +the French language was like a peasant child's with turtle-soup; +perhaps "a lick and a promise" would best explain it. But though only +knowing a few words, which he pronounced with the vilest of accents, +and then only when he had inserted his glass in his eye, he brought +them out with ludicrous frequency whenever he had the chance. Here are +examples--"_Hi garsong!_ bring me another plate!" "_Garsong +poorquar_ don't you fetch some bread when I've asked three times for +it?" "_Hi garsong! sil voo plate_, where are those potatoes?" And +so on all through dinner; while he appeared rather to enjoy the +merriment he caused, thinking he must have said something really good, +although of course he hadn't the slightest idea what it was! + +To sketchers and lovers of contrasts a visit to Fuenterabia cannot fail +to prove a treat, and a better specimen of an old Spanish town it would +be difficult to find. The only convenient train in the morning thither +leaves early, and although we preferred driving, we made an early start +too, in order to spend a long day. Having accomplished the eight miles +and arrived at St. Jean de Luz, we had still a distance of 8 miles more +before reaching Hendaye, the frontier town. There were occasional +pretty bits of country to be seen, especially in the vicinity of +Urrugne (10-1/2 miles), a village in which the Spanish element is +noticeable, but the succession of poplars along the roadside all the +way--more or less--to Béhobie, was very monotonous. At Béhobie (14-1/2 +miles) the road to Hendaye leaves the direct route to Spain and +branches off to the right. Following this, we were soon at the +frontier. Hendaye (16 miles) is celebrated for its cognac and a certain +liquor called by its name, as well as for an excellent beach and +bathing establishment, beyond which there is little worth mention. +Having put up the horses at the Hôtel de France, we repaired to the +jetty, where happily the tide was high enough to permit of our being +ferried across, instead of carried on the back of some brawny (and +garlicky) native. As we were half-rowed, half-poled, down the narrow +winding channel of the Bidassoa, we were once again indubitably "'twixt +France and Spain," though the vicinity of the ancient Spanish town, and +the lazy sentinels on the river's bank, made the scene much more +Spanish than French. Once landed, we strolled slowly across the +"_Embarcadéro_," and entered the town by the ancient gateway. The +principal street, which we then ascended, is indeed picturesque. The +miniature verandahs and overhanging roofs of the houses, the latter +approaching so close to one another as nearly to permit of shaking +hands across; an occasional bright costume appearing at the window or +on the verandah; the old church higher up the street, and the battered +"Castilio" at the top, furnished ample materials for a very pleasant +sketch. The church is well worth a visit, being very old and of +interesting appearance. Owing to its sheltered position it did not +suffer nearly as much as most of the buildings from the missiles in the +late Carlist war. We passed several groups of lazy soldiers, who leered +at us offensively and made some uncomplimentary remarks, but +otherwise--beyond the fact that the women stared a good deal when Miss +Blunt attempted to sketch--we met with no discourtesy. The new casino +proves an "extra" attraction in summer, but it is to be regretted that, +for gambling purposes alone, many people should be drawn to this quaint +old-world town, so worthy of a visit for its picturesqueness alone. + +At the time when we wished to visit San Sebastien we learnt that the +"Citadol" was closed to visitors, owing to some foreigner having +foolishly lighted his cigar near a powder magazine. As the "Citadol" is +the chief attraction, we penned a highly polite letter to his +Excellency the Governor of the Province, asking for his permission to +visit this otherwise forbidden ground. + +We received a most gracious reply, to the effect that, whenever we +liked to come, the place was at our disposal, and accordingly selected +the first fine morning for our trip. On this occasion we formed a party +large enough for a coach and four, but were very careful to avoid a +repetition of our Bétharram experiences. + +We discovered no new features of interest as far as Béhobie, but the +day being very clear, we had a fine view of the distant Pyrenees and +the Spanish coastline from various points along the road. Passing +through Béhobie's narrow streets and crossing the Bidassoa by the +strong stone bridge, we were only a minute "'twixt France and Spain," +and entering Irun found ourselves in the hands of the Customs +authorities. Having "nothing to declare" and nothing contraband +undeclared, we were soon permitted to proceed, although our "cocher" +almost immediately afterwards stopped to change horses. Accordingly, we +walked on up a pretty lane with ivied walls, near which--in the +background--stood an old church. Finding a comfortable place for +lunching in the vicinity, we awaited the arrival of the coach, and +discussed our hamper before again moving on. Not having too much time, +however, we did not delay long, and remounting, bowled merrily along to +"Pasages." This was once the safest port on the coast, and in fact is +yet; but the accumulation of sand, &c., at the entrance, has made it +practically useless for any ships but those of very light draught. It +forms a tidal basin, and houses are built on its sides, along one of +which the road for some time skirts, but afterwards assumes a straight +course and descends into San Sebastien. From the highest point of the +road, before we commenced descending, we had a splendid view of the +town, which looked busy, imposing, and clean. + +When once inside, we drove to the Hôtel de Londres; then crossed the +street to the guardhouse, presented our "permit" for the "Citadol," and +after a little fuss and _red tapeism_--such as Spaniards, even +more than Frenchmen, dearly love--under the guidance of a soldier, +commenced the ascent. How many times we presented our "carta" we know +not, but at every turn some official was ready to ask to see it, and +this business took almost as long as the actual mounting, though in the +end we did manage to reach the summit. The view from thence was very +fine, extending for miles in all directions, but after enjoying it for +a short time, we descended to visit the graves of the English who fell +in defending the place in 1836 against the Carlists, which lie in a +little cemetery on one side of the hill. Maiden-hair ferns grow among +the rocks by the path, which from time to time discloses views of the +town and the pretty rocky island--Santa Clara--in the bay. After +descending, we had time for a glimpse at the interior of the church of +Santa Maria and the bull-ring, as well as a stroll along the beautiful +beach, before it was necessary to start homewards, and when at length +we were deposited in safety at our hotel, we all acknowledged that the +day had been a very pleasant one indeed! With such enjoyable drives, +and the tennis, and the ever-changing sea, we never found time hang +heavily on our hands; and if we had, there was the little railway to +carry us into the bustle of Bayonne for shopping or listening to the +band, where _ennui_ would speedily have been driven away. Speaking +of this railway reminds us that at Anglêt, one of the stations on the +line, there is a very interesting convent of "Silent Sisters" within +easy access from the train. Although it is a sad sight to see all these +women deluded with the notion that their sins, however great, could not +be pardoned without such a bitter expiation; yet the order and +cleanliness that is patent everywhere, and the gardens and greenhouses, +lend an attraction to the place in spite of its melancholy +associations. [Footnote: Visitors are expected to purchase a specimen +of the needlework exhibited to them, or at any rate to put a donation +in the convent box.] + +When June has succeeded May, Biarritz begins to empty of its English +and American visitors, to give place in July to the Spaniards and +French. On the 15th of that month prices go up with a bound, often +becoming double and even treble what they were during the winter +season. This is the time to stroll on the "Plage" and watch the +bathing; to note the varied costumes, see the merry faces, and listen +to the children's laughter, mingled with the splash of the waves. But +we are only treating of spring, so must not encroach upon summer; +but--following our countrymen's example--bid "Au revoir" to Biarritz +before the glare forces us to parade the streets with blue spectacles +and double-lined parasols. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +CONCLUSION. + +"Where duty leads"--Resorts in the Eastern Pyrenees--Caen--"Riou"--Our +paths diverge--"The Lesson of the Mountains"--Farewell. + + +Although we have in reality come to the end of our tour, and have +consequently no more places to discourse on, it may be suggested that +our task is but badly ended if we omit to mention such resorts as +Amélie, Vernet, Molitg, and other spots, which, if of less importance +than those we have visited, are nevertheless _in_ the Pyrenees. +That they are _in_ the Pyrenees cannot be disputed, but being in +the eastern portion, the way of reaching them from the resorts among +the western heights is so roundabout, that but few people would think +of visiting both. However, for the information of any intending +travellers, we have collected what reliable facts we could about the +above-mentioned places--as well as Capvern, Preste-les-Bains, +Panticosa, and a few others--which will be found in the general +information [Footnote: See Appendix A.] at the end of the volume, and +will, we trust, be of service. + +We have but little left us now to do but to take our leave, though we +have one little incident to record, which, though it occurred far from +the Pyrenees, resulted, nevertheless, from our visit. + +Travelling slowly homeward by the route through Normandy to Cherbourg, +we stopped a few days at the delightful town of Caen. While there--in +consequence of negotiations that had been carried on for some +time--Miss Blunt had her desires gratified by the arrival of a fine +Pyrenean puppy--like a small white bear with brown points--from +Cauterets, one of the identical pair about which we had such a lively +scene with the old French fancier. He was christened "Riou," after the +Col of that name, and his owner has very kindly drawn his portrait among +his native hills, to adorn these pages. + +[Illustration: "MY PAW IS ON MY NATIVE HEATH, AND MY NAME IS 'RIOU.'"] + +Our party did not break up till we reached Weymouth, but after that our +ways diverged. We were by no means glad to part, the memories of our +trip being very pleasant ones, and we can hardly think of a more +delightful way of spending a couple of months than in driving about +these beautiful mountains. The people are so pleasant, and hotels so +moderate (in the spring-time), and the country in the full beauty of +spring is at its best; and yet, as a rule, the few English and +Americans who do go, wait till the season begins, with its crowds, +heat, and extra expense, and the fiery sun has effectually cleared the +mountains of that snowy mantle which was their greatest charm. + +We were once asked, "Are not the Pyrenees very bare mountains, without +any trees or herbage?" We could only repeat, what we have so often +asserted in this book, that the foliage on the mountain slopes is +magnificent, and their fertility and wealth of flora are of the highest +order. + +They are indeed so beautiful in every way that they cannot fail to +touch many a chord in the heart of any lover of nature. At one moment +hid in mists, at another clear and stately under a cloudless sky; in +winter, wrapped completely in their garb of snow, trees and grass and +rocks and all, only to reappear under spring's influence, still +retaining their snowy crown, but with their slopes bright with the +contrasting tints of beech and fir, oak and maple, interspersed with +banks of bright gentian and fields of golden daffodils; what could be +more lovely than a scene such as this, with the morning sun gilding the +snow summits, or the last rays of a roseate sunset lingeringly bidding +them "Farewell"? + +As we then follow their example, we do not think we could make a more +fitting ending than these lines, written amid those lovely scenes, and +entitled + + +"THE LESSON OF THE MOUNTAINS." + + Look on yon mountain peaks, + Mark how each summit seeks +Upward to lift its crest, base earth to spurn. + Tow'ring above the plain, + Over the weak and vain, +Ever for realms of light seeming to yearn. + + Look at each snowy crown, + Whiter than softest down, +Oh! in what majesty thus are they drest! + See how the setting sun + Kisses them one by one, +And slowly, solemnly, goes to his rest. + + Look to the brilliant sky; + --Dark though the clouds be, nigh-- +Wavelets of gold grandly float 'neath the blue. + Mark where the shades of green + Mingle with crimson's sheen, +Till evening's dread decree curtains the view. + + Hark to the drenching rain! + Hark how it beats the pane! +While the fierce fitful blast sweeps on its course. + Fiercer yet swells the gale, + Hark to the long-drawn wail! +Tenfold more dire--in the darkness--its force. + + * * * * * + + See! morning's golden rays, + Breaking night's gloomy haze, +Tinge with a burning glow every proud height; + Storms beat on them in vain, + Steadfast they will remain, +Till the eternal day swallows up night. + + * * * * * + + So may thy soul aspire + Ever to climb up higher, +Spurning the world's delights, caring for none; + Shunning vain pomps and shows, + Seeking but calm repose +In the "Hereafter," when life is done. + +[Illustration: "See! morning's golden rays, Breaking night's gloomy +haze, Tinge with a burning glow every proud height."] + + So may'st thou yearn to wear, + Like ev'ry angel there, +Vestment as pure as snow, spotlessly white; + And on thy face to shine +That radiancy divine, +God's own unquenchable, immortal light. + +[Illustration] + + And, if life's courses seem + Pleasant, like some sweet dream, +Be thou beware of the evils around: + Paths seeming paved with gold + Oft mighty sins enfold, +Oft where the sea looks still, quicksands abound. + + Or should the trials come, + Shatt'ring thy earthly home, +Dashing fond hopes and despoiling thy life: + Meekly thy burden bear + To Jesus' throne, and there +Thou wilt find rest and help--strength for the strife. + + Then, when Heav'n's morning breaks, + And ev'ry soul forsakes +This baser earth, and flies to its last rest, + Chastened by cold and heat, + Wash'd by the storms that beat, +Oh, may thy spirit soar 'mid God's own blest! + + +THE END. + + + + +APPENDIX A. + +GENERAL INFORMATION CONCERNING THE PRINCIPAL TOWNS AND VILLAGES IN THE +PYRENEES, INCLUDING NOTES ON THE MEDICAL PROPERTIES OF THE BATHS AT THE +CHIEF RESORTS, AND THE EXCURSIONS IN THE VICINITY. + + +N.B.--_The following sign (||) attached to hotels, &c., in this +portion of the book, signifies that the Author can personally give his +recommendation._ + +AMÉLIE-LES-BAINS [Footnote: For routes thither see Appendix B.] +(678 ft.), on the River Tech, in the Eastern Pyrenees. A winter resort, +with a dry, clear air, tonic and slightly irritant, and a mean +temperature during the months of January, February, and March (taken +collectively) of 48-1/3° Fahr. The average number of fine days in the +year is 210. The baths are naturally heated from 100° to 144°, +according to the distance from the source. They contain soda in +combination with sulphur, carbon, and silica, with a very small +proportion of the carbonates of iron and lime. They are recommended in +skin diseases, affections of the throat and kidneys, and for chronic +rheumatism. The season lasts throughout the year. + +Bathing Establishments.--Thermes Pujade; Thermes Romains. With +hotel accommodation at both. + +Hotels.--Pujade, Romains; Du Kursal, Farret, and Martinet. + +Post and Telegraph Office, Cafés, Casino, Theatre, &c.--Living +is by no means expensive. In the first-named hotels the charge per diem +ought not to exceed 7frs. 50c. for "pension"; in the others it is +cheaper. The bathing establishments have excellent accommodation, +twenty-seven baths, a large swimming bath, inhaling rooms, etc.: There +are doctors in connection with the baths and others resident in the +town. The scenery around is very pretty, and rich in groves of olive, +cherry, cork, and fig trees, besides banks of heather and ferns, and +clusters of honeysuckle. + +The Chief Excursions are:-- + +Prats de Mollo (2618 ft.), 12 1/2 miles by mule path--15 by +road; carriage (23 francs with pourboire) 5 1/4 hours. + +Inns.--Maillard; Guin-Come. + +Preste-les-Bains, 19 miles--8 1/2 hours; carriage 33 francs with +pourboire. + +Roc de France (4698 ft.): splendid view; 6 1/2 hours there and +back. A stiff climb, fully compensated for by the expanse of scenery to +be seen from the summit. + +Gouffre de la Fou, 4 hours there and back--guide necessary to +descend to the bottom of the "Gouffre," for which the "espadrilles" +(cord sandals) must be worn. + +Col de Faitg, Massanet, 6 hours there and back--a very charming +and picturesque excursion. + +La Junguera, 20 miles; carriage 23 francs, i.p. [Footnote: +i.p., including pourboire.] The first Spanish village over the +frontier; an interesting drive. + +Le Pertus (958 ft.) 152 miles. There and back 6 hours. Carriage +23 francs, i.p. [Footnote: i.p., including pourboire.] + +From Amélie to Perpignan, or vice versa, 23 1/2 miles; a +carriage with luggage costs 28 francs, i.p. [Footnote: i.p., including +pourboire.] + +Carriages and Horses may be hired at Labrunie's or Victor +Olive's. + +Guide.--Bertrand Oms at Aries. + + +ARCACHON [Footnote: The Chaplain, Mr. Radcliffe, has issued an +excellent guide-book for the locality.]--Situated in the forest, and on +the shores of the basin of the same name. The English season is in +winter, the French in summer. A favourite resort on account of its mild +and sedative climate. Most people live in villas in the forest during +the winter, where the strong winds are not felt, and where the mean +temperature is 50° Fahr. The calmness of the atmosphere, and the strong +scent from the pines, has a beneficial tendency for those suffering +from chest complaints. + +To those who find it relaxing, Biarritz is recommended as a suitable +change. + +Hotels.--Grand (on the Plage), Continental, Grand du Forêt, &c. + +Pensions.--Villa Riquet || (Mons. Ollé, proprietor), Villa +Montretout, Villa Peyronnet, and Villa Buffon. + +Chaplain.--Rev. W. Radcliffe. + +English Church, in the forest; services every Sunday. + +Cabs, during the day from 6 A.M. to 8 P.M. The course: + +1-1/2 frs. with one horse; 2 frs. with two horses; by the hour, 2-1/2 +and 3 frs. respectively. + +Horses and Donkeys, 2 frs. and 1 fr. the hour, respectively. + +Boats, from 2 frs. the hour, by arrangement. + +Bankers and Money Changers.--Dubos and Mauriac, opposite Grand +Hotel. + +Post and Telegraph Office, Chemists, Grocers, &c. + +Casino. + +Principal Drives and Excursion are:-- + +To Moulleau, 2 miles through the forest. + +To La Teste, 3 miles. + +To the Oyster Beds, in the centre of the bay, on the Ile des +Oiseaux. + +To the Lighthouse at Cape Ferret, across the basin, whence the +Biscay can be seen. + +To the Dune de la Grave by boat, and across the forest to La +Teste, visiting the giant trees (this must only be undertaken with an +experienced guide). + +ARGELÈS (1528 ft.), on the River Azun, in the Hautes-Pyrénées; +with a genial climate that makes it a favourite resort very early in +the year. Some few people use it as a winter abode also. Living costs +"en pension" from 9 to 14 frs. per diem. + +Hotels.--De France; D'Angleterre || (cheaper than the France). + +Carriages.--At Limoges, || can be hired for the afternoon +--with one horse, 5 frs.; 2 horses, 8 frs.; 4 horses, 10 frs.; or by +the day, or for any special excursion. + +Horses, also from M. Limoges. For the afternoon, 4 frs.; for the +day, 8 to 10 frs. (N.B.--These are spring prices, and not those of the +season.) + +Chemist.--M. Bualé, near the Post Office. + +Post and Telegraph Office, and a few shops. + +The Chief Excursions are:-- + +To the Villages of Ges, Serres, Salles, and Ourous--a lovely +ride, 2 hours; horses, 4 frs. each, pourboire, 1/2 fr. + +Drive round the Valley, via Argelès station, the Chateau de +Beaucens, Pierrefitte, and St. Savin, 2 hours 30 min.; carriage with 4 +horses, 11 frs. 50 c., i.p. + +Le Balandrau (1729 ft.). Lovely walk; one hour there and back. + +Pic de Pibeste (4548 ft.) An easy climb: splendid view from the +summit. + +ARGELES-SUR-MER, 13-3/4 miles from Perpignan. In the midst of +fertile fields. Ruins of the Castle de Pujols in the vicinity. + +Hotels.--D'Angleterre, De France. + +ARLES-SUR-TECH (909 ft.), in the Eastern Pyrenees. Chief town of +the canton and the principal commercial centre in the Tech valley. +2-1/2 miles from Amélie, which was formerly known as Arles-les-Bains. +Trade with Algeria in apples; and in whip-handles with the whole of +France. Old twelfth-century church in the town; and outside, behind a +grating, lies the tomb of the Saints Abdon and Sennen. + +Hotels.--Rousseau, Pujade. + +ARREAU (2190 ft.), at the junction of the valley of Louron with +the Aure valley, in the "Hautes-Pyrénées," 23-3/4 miles from Bagnères +de Bigorre and 19-1/4 from Luchon, on the direct mountain road. (Route +Thermale.) + +Hotels.--De France, || D'Angleterre. + +Post and Telegraph Office, Chemist, Grocer, &c. + +In the town are the Chapelle de St. Exupère, with a good view from the +belfry; the Church of Notre Dame; and the ancient market-place. There +are manganese mines in the vicinity. + +Excursions to Cardiac, 2 miles. Sulphurous baths, with hotel +accommodation. + +To the forest of Riou-majou and the falls of Mail-Blanc and Ejet. Over +the Col de Plan to the Spanish villages of St. Juan, Gestain, &c. Up +the Vallée de Lastié to the Monné de Luchon (7044 ft.). + +ARRENS (2950 ft.), in the valley of Azun, in the High Pyrenees, +on the Route Thermale, between Eaux Bonnes (19 miles) and Argelès +(7-1/2 miles). + +Hotels.--De France et de la Poste, De la Paix. + +Guides.--Jean Lacoste, M. Gleyre. + +Excursions (for which it is an excellent starting-point).--Mont +Bâlétous, 10,318 ft. (the most dangerous point for the ascent--from +Eaux Bonnes it is much easier), 4 hours to the summit. Guide absolutely +necessary. + +Lac Miguelon and Pic d'Arrouy--11 hours there and back; a +much-recommended trip. + +Pic de Cambalés, 9 hours (9728 ft.); an easy ascension; recommended. + +ARUDY, in the Basses-Pyrénées, on the direct road from Oloron to +Eaux Bonnes or Chaudes; 17-1/4 miles from Oloron and 2 from +Louvie-Juzon. Grotte d'Arudy in the vicinity. + +ASPIN, a small village in the Aure valley, Hautes-Pyrénées, +below the Col of the same name, on the road between Bigorre and Luchon. + +ASTÉ, a village at the entrance to the Gorge de Lhéris, near +Bagnères de Bigorre--to which refer. Ruins of an ancient castle in +which Gabrielle d'Estrelle lived. Church of 16th century. Visited by +Pitton de Tounefort, the naturalist. + +BAGNÈRES DE BIGORRE (1808 ft.), standing at the mouth of the fine +valley of Campan and the lesser one of Salut. It is one of the most +celebrated bathing resorts in the Pyrenees, and is very rich in +springs. The climate is mild, and while the season only lasts from the +1st of June to the 15th of October, several English make it a residence +all the year round. It is in a great measure protected from the winds, +though they blow occasionally strongly and chillily; snow is a rare +visitor in the town, and with Argelès it shares the honour of being +among the earliest "changes of air" from the warmth of Pau. There are +nearly 50 springs divided between 17 establishments, and there is +hardly any known or unknown malady for which they cannot be +recommended. They may be divided into four classes: 1st, saline; 2nd, +ferruginous; 3rd, saline and ferruginous; 4th, sulphurous. They are all +naturally heated. The temperature ranges from 64° to 123° Fahr.; and +amongst the hottest is the "Salies," which contains a certain limited +quantity of arsenic, and is only used for drinking purposes. It is said +to be beneficial in laryngitis, ulcerous diseases, and affections of +the mouth and throat. + +The Principal Establishment is known as the Thermes de +Marie-Therèse, and contains 7 different springs, and 38 baths of +Pyrenean marble. In the winter the price for a bath (simple) varies +from 1 fr. to 1 fr. 60 cents, including linen. For a douche-bath 1 fr.; +a footbath 60 cents; and for other varieties from 1 fr. 25 cents to 3 +frs. Every visit to the drinking-fountain costs 10 cents. In summer a +simple bath costs from 1 fr. 25 cents to 2 frs., and douche-bath the +same, while the others range from 1 fr. 25 cents to 5 frs. + +The other most important establishments are those of Grand Pré, Santé, +Salut, and Lassère, while the water of Labassère is brought daily to +the town for drinking purposes. + +This water of Labassère is sulphurous, and is considered highly +beneficial in cases of chronic bronchial catarrh, congestion of the +lungs, pulmonary consumption, spasmodic coughs, skin diseases, and +chronic laryngitis. See Labassère in Appendix. + +Grand Pré has three springs, in all of which iron is present; +two are naturally heated, and are considered efficacious in scrofulous +diseases, nervous rheumatism, and general debility. The other spring, +which is cold and used only for drinking purposes, has a decided tonic +action. + +Santé possesses two sources, one of which is artificially +heated; they are of a saline nature. These are _par excellence_ +the "Ladies' Springs," and have great efficacy in cases of overwork, +shock to the nervous system, general nervousness, and neuralgia. + +Salut possesses three sources of different temperatures, +employed in baths and for drinking purposes, as well. Except in very +hot weather the water is inodorous, but its sedative properties have +placed it in the first rank. It has been used with great benefit in all +nervous complaints, hypochondria, hysteria, intestinal complaints, +indigestion, &c., its action being also diuretic. + +Lasserre has one source only, slightly bitter and inodorous, +containing sulphate of magnesia, which renders its action laxative. It +is useful in cases of obesity, liver affections, and others of that +type. + +For the other establishments and springs, which have likewise their +special uses, the reader is referred to the 'Guide to Bigorre,' and +Joanne's Guide-book to the Pyrenees. + +Hotels.--Beau Séjour; Paris; De Londres et d'Angleterre; Du bon +Pasteur; Frascati; &c. &c. + +Banker and Money Changer.--D. Ortalis, 16 Place +Lafayette. + +Doctors.--(In summer only) Dr. Bagnall from Pau, Promenade St. +Martin. Dr. Couzier, 27 Rue du Théâtre (all the year). Dr. Dejeau, 30 +Allée de Coustous (ditto). + +Chemists.--M. Nogues, Place Lafayette; and M. Jouaneton, 22 +Place de Strasbourg. + +Restaurant.--M. Vignes, Place Lafayette. + +Nurses.--Les Soeurs de l'Esperance, 9 Avenue de Salut. + +Draper.--Cornet, Allée des Constons, No. 22. + +Grocer (selling English goods of all kinds).--M. Peltier, 5 +Boulevard du Collège. + +Confectioners.--Mdme. Cheval, Rue du Centre, 19. M. Toujas, No. +10 same street. + +Carriages.--Courtade, Place des Pyrenees, No. 14; Pourponnet, 3 +Rue Labrun. + +Horses.--Bourdettes, 25 Place Lafayette. + +There is service all the year in the small English Church, and the +present chaplain, the Rev. J. Grundy, M.A. Oxon., is always willing to +assist visitors in any way, and glad to accept the offer of their +services in the choir. + +The cost of living in the winter averages 10 frs. in the best hotels, +and between 7 and 9 in others; but the prices rise considerably in +summer. + +Post and Telegraph Office, Theatre, Casino, Museum and +Reading-rooms in the town. + +Guides.--Fages, senior and junior, 8 Rue de Lorry; Idrac, Rue +Longue; Arnauné, Rue de Lorry. + +Principal Excursions:--[Footnote: For _full_ particulars of +these and all excursions, the reader is referred to P. Joanne's +'Pyrenees'; Mr. Packe's 'Guide to the Pyrenees for Mountaineers'; and +Count Russell's 'Grandes Ascensions des Pyrénées' (French and +English).] To Aste, Gerde, Lourdes, Campan, Baudean, Ste. Marie, the +Col d'Aspin, and up the Bédat and the Monné. Refer to Chapter II, for +information. + +Caesar's Camp, 2 hrs. there and back, by the village of Pouzac. + +Les Allées dramatiques, 2 hrs. there and back, riding--3 hrs. +on foot; between the Bédat and the Monné, a pretty walk. + +The Slate Quarries and Spring of Labassère, 6 hrs. there and +back; 1-1/4 hrs. to Labassère; 2 hrs. to the Quarries; 3 hrs. to the +Spring. Guide 6 frs.; horses 10 frs. each. + +The Mont-Aigu, 10 hrs. there and back, guide 15 frs. The view +from the summit is immense; it extends over three valleys. + +The Vallée de Lesponne and the "Lac bleu," 9 hrs. there and +back. Carriage-road to the end of valley; mulepath the remainder of the +way. Guide 8 frs., horse 10 frs. + +Gripp (10 miles). Carriage-road all the way. Same road as far as +Ste. Marie as that to Col d'Aspin. + +Pic du Midi de Bigorre, 6 hrs. 45 min. to the summit; Guide 6 +frs., horse 10 frs. A magnificent excursion, but easier from Barèges. + +Pêne de l'Heris, 2 hrs. 45 min. to summit. A pleasant excursion. + +Houn Blanquo, 9 hrs. there and back. Guide 8 frs., horse 10 frs. +A splendid mountain panorama in view, from the summit. + +Puits de la Pindorle [Footnote: See footnote p. 226.]--a natural +ice-cave, spoken of by Mr. Packe as "unique in its kind in the +Pyrenees"--8 hrs. there and back. Guide and ropes necessary. + +BAGNERES DE LUCHON (2065 ft.).--A lovely town in the Western +Pyrenees (Hautes), situated near the junction of the Pique with the +One, at the mouth of the Larboust valley, and in the western angle of +the valley of Luchon. + +The most fashionable of all the Pyrenean watering-places. + +Season.--1st of June to the end of October; but most charming in +May and early June. + +The Bathing Establishment is a very ponderous building, +containing accommodation second to none. The springs are nearly all +naturally heated, varying from 103° to 150° Fahr.; they may be divided +into four classes: 1st, sodium sulphate; 2nd, saline; 3rd, bicarbonate +of iron; 4th, saline, but cold. The sulphur springs are considered the +best and most complete series known; and the iron are principally used +for drinking purposes. The waters of Luchon are considered specially +beneficial for chronic bronchitis, rheumatism (articular and muscular), +vesical catarrh, reopened wounds, fractures, scrofulous and cutaneous +affections, and ulcers. In cases where there are complications, nervous +excitement, or paralysis, a medical man should always be consulted +before venturing to bathe. + +There is an iron spring near the Castelvieil, 1-1/2 miles from Luchon. + +In the "Etablissement Thermal" the terms range from 60 cents to 4 frs. +There are baths of all kinds, and it is advisable, if the bather wishes +to bathe at any special time, that he should enter his name in the book +kept for that purpose, as soon as he arrives. In the season there is +always a great pressure of visitors, and otherwise the bather may have +to wait an hour or two for his turn. There was once a Museum +above the baths, this has now been removed to the splendid +Casino which stands in beautiful grounds, not far from the +Post and Telegraph Office--entrance I franc. + +Hotels.--Canton, || Richelieu (very large but not recommended), +Grand, Bonnemaison, Paris, d'Angleterre, d'Etigny, de France, des +Bains, Monteil, du Parc, de la Paix. + +Apartments.--Of all descriptions, in the Allée des Bains, Rue +Neuve, Cours d'Etigny, Allée des Veuves, &c. &c. + +Doctors.--Several, both attached to the baths and independent. + +Carriage and Horse Proprietors.--Almost innumerable, but Jean +Sanson is recommended, Rue d'Espagne. + +Guides.--For the summits (French): Pierre Barrau, Rue de Pigué, +Aurillon, Lafon fils, Capdeville senior and junior, Fermin Barrau. +(Spanish) Francisco. For ordinary excursions and hunting: Jean and Luis +Sanson; Jean Brunet, chamois-hunter (recommended for all ascensions +from the Lac d'O). + +Tariff for drinking the waters only.--During season, 8 days, 4 +frs.; 20 days, 8 frs.; 30 days, 10 frs. + +Carriage on Hire (from the stand).--The "course," 1 franc; the +hour, 3 frs. for one horse; and 1 fr. 30 cents, and 3 frs. 75 cents +respectively, for two horses--by day. By night, for one horse, 2 frs. +50 cents the "course," and 4 frs. the hour; for two horses, 3 frs. 25 +cents and 5 frs. respectively. + +For all excursions there is a recognised tariff, which may be seen at +the Mairie; and an excellent local guide-book and map is published for +2 frs. by Lafont. + +The Chief Excursions:-- + +For Superbagnères (horses and guide 5 frs. each respectively, +hay on the summit 1 fr. out of the season, but 2 frs. more each person +in the season), Vallée du Lys (20 to 25 frs. for a landau), Bosost +(carriage _via_ St. Béat, 45 frs., horses via the Portillon 5 frs. +each, guide 6 frs.), Montauban (an easy walk), the Orphanage of Notre +Dame du Rocher (a short and pleasant walk), St. Mamet (little more than +1/2 mile), the Rue d'Enfer (an easy climb from the Vallée du Lys), the +Tour de Castelvieil (about two miles from Luchon), &c. &c. Refer to +Chapter X. + +The Val d'Esquierry (4839 ft.), 11 miles.--Carriage-road as far +as Grange d'Astos (25 to 30 frs.) very rich in flora. + +To the Hospice de Prance and the Cascades--des Demoiselles, et du +Parisien, 9 1/4 miles. Carriage-road all the way. Landau, 25 frs.; +but 4 frs. per seat in the Hospice diligence there and back. + +To the Port de Venasque and the Pic de Sauvegarde, returning by +the Port de la Picade; 10 miles to the Port de Venasque--1 hour further +to the summit of the Pic de Sauvegarde; 11 miles from the Port de la +Picade to Luchon. Time, 10 to 11 hours there and back; but this fine +excursion is rendered more enjoyable by sleeping at the Hospice +(_vide_ above), and starting early next day for the summits. + +The Valley Of Oueil and the village of Bourg (9 1/3 +miles). Carriage there and back, 30 frs. From Bourg the Pic de +Montné can be ascended. Splendid sunrise view from summit. Guide +recommended if ascension is made by night; horses 7 frs., guides 10 +frs.; or by day 7 frs. + +Lac d'Oo (10 miles).--Carriage-road for 8 miles. Landau, 25 frs. +This lake, also called Seculejo, is full of salmon-trout, and there is +a very fine cascade (820 ft.) on the far side, to which visitors can be +ferried. Fare for one person 1 1/4 frs.--for more, an arrangement can +be made. There is a small toll levied on every person who visits +this lake--no matter whether they patronise the little inn or not! + +Saint Béat.--By carriage 25 frs., or by rail to Marignac and +diligence afterwards (12 1/2 miles). Refer to Chapter XI. + +L'Antenac.--6 1/2 hours to the summit and back. Horse and guide +each 6 frs. An enjoyable excursion; and the whole distance can be +ridden. + +Pic Spijoles.--4 1/2 hours from the Lac d'Oo--a difficult +ascension. + +Pic de Crabioules.--13 hours up and down. Guide necessary. +Splendid view. + +Pic Quairat.--5 hours from the Lac d'Oo. Guide necessary. + +Le Céciré.--8 hours up and down. Guide and horses 6 frs. each. + +Pic Sacroux,--8 1/2 hours to the summit and back. Very fine +view. + +The Peaks Bacanère and the Pales de Burat (11 3/4 +miles).--9 hours there and back. Horses and guides from 5 to 8 frs. +each, according to season. One of the most charming of all the +excursions from Luchon. + +L'Entécade.--7 hours in all. Guides and horses 6 frs. each. A +much-regimented climb. Splendid view from summit. + +Pic de Poujastou.--8-1/2 hours in all. Guides and horses 6 frs. +each; an easy climb. + +The Mont Maudits or Maladetta Group, the highest in the +range, including the Pic de Nethou (11,169 ft.), Pic 'du Milieu (11,044 +ft.), Pic de la Maladetta (10,867 ft.), Pic d'Albe (10,761 ft.), and +the Pic Fourcanade (9456 ft.), are so difficult and perilous, and +require such excellent guides, that the reader is referred for +information to Mr. Packe's and Count Russell's books, previously +mentioned. + +_Note_.--Carriages from Bigorre to Luchon, 43-1/2 miles, +_via_ Arreau, 80 to 100 frs., 5 to 10 frs. pourboire, out of the +season; 100 to 130 frs., and pourboire 10 frs., in the season. + +BAREGES (4084 ft.), situated in a barren rocky gorge above Luz, +in the Hautes-Pyrénées. It may be called the "Old Soldier's Resort," +as the waters are specially efficacious for gunshot wounds. + +The fine Bathing Establishment contains 30 separate bath-rooms, +besides 3 douche-rooms, a spray-room, foot bath-room, &c. The springs +vary in heat from 71° to 112° Fahr., and are of a similar nature, all +containing large proportions of sulphur and baregine. Dr. Lee says, +"The water when drunk has a diuretic, diaphoretic, and expectorant +action; the bath, by its general and local stimulating properties, +cleanses foul ulcers,... promotes the exfoliation of carious portions +of bone and subsequent cicatrisation, and frequently causes foreign +bodies which have been long imbedded ... to make their way to the +surface." It is also highly beneficial for old bullet-wounds, neuralgic +affections, rheumatic pains, and stiff joints. + +Hotels.--Del'Europe, De France, Des Pyrénées, Richelieu. Board +and lodging from 10 to 15 frs. per day in the season (15th of June to +September). No hotels open in winter, as the village is covered with +snow. + +The Climate even in summer is variable--great heat is frequently +followed by great cold, necessitating the wearing of woollen +under-clothing, which should always be taken. + +Bathing Tariff, &c.--Baths and douches from I fr. to 2 frs. 50 +cents. For each visit to the drinking-room 5 cents; subscription for +one month, 10 frs. + +Apartments.--One room, from 2 frs. 50 cents to 6 frs. per day, +according to position and size. + +Doctors at the Establishment, a few independent, and others from +Luz. + +[Illustration: TWIXT FRANCE AND SPAIN PANORAMA OF THE HIGHER PYREAN +CHAIN.----VIEW TAKEN FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE PIC DU MIDI DE BIGORRE.] + +Post and Telegraph Office in the season. + +Carriages, Horses, and Asses in abundance; apply at the hotels. + +Guides.--Of the 1st class: Bastien, Teinturier, Michael Pontis, +Menvielle, &c. &c. for the lofty peaks; several of the 2nd class for +minor excursions. + +Chief Excursions::-- + +For the Promenade Horizontale and the Vallée de Lienz, refer to +Chapter VI. + +Pic de Néré.--6 hrs. there and back. Beware of vipers. + +Pic du Midi de Bigorre.--8 hrs. up and down. Guide and horses, 5 +frs. each. The favourite excursion in the vicinity, and one of the +finest in the Pyrenees. The panorama which is annexed is on a fine day +truly magnificent. Horses can be taken to the summit, where there is an +excellent inn. + +Lacs d'Escoubous.--2 hrs. to the Lac d'Escoubous; 2 hrs. 30 min. +to the Lac Blanc; 2 hrs. return. Guide 4 to 6 frs., horses ditto. + +Pic d'Ayré.--6 to 7 hrs. up and down. Horses can be taken within +1/2 hr. of summit. Guide 6 frs., horses ditto. + +Pic de Lienz.--5 hrs. up and down. A pleasant climb. See Chapter +VI. + +Le Néouville.--12 hrs. by the Col d'Aure, there and back. Guide +necessary--10 frs. Splendid view over all the higher Pyrenees. + +BAUDÉAN.--A village in the Campan valley on the Route Thermale, +between Bigorre and Luchon, in the Hautes-Pyrénées. + +BAYONNE.--City and first-class fortress in the Basses-Pyrénées, +on the Adour and the Nive, standing some 2 miles from the shores of the +terrible Biscay Bay. On the direct line from Bordeaux to Biarritz and +Spain. + +Hotels.--St. Etienne, Du Commerce, Ambassadeurs, St. Martin, De +la Bilbaïna, De la Guipuzcoäna, and Du Panier fleuri. Rail to Négresse +station for Biarritz; also narrow-gauge railway to Biarritz _viâ_ +Anglet. + +Splendid twin-towered cathedral, ancient fortifications, &c. Excellent +market and good shops, which are more reasonable than at Biarritz. + +Post and Telegraph Office, English Vice-Consulate, &c. + +Cabs.--The course 1 fr., the hour 2 frs. 25 cents and 50 cents +extra respectively for 2 horses. + +Chocolate.--Fagalde. + +Excursions to Cambo (10 miles), Croix de Mouguère, £c., see Chapter +XIII. + +BÉHOBIE.--A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, on the direct road +to Spain, 14-1/4 miles from Biarritz. + +BÉTHARRAM.--A pleasantly-situated village in the +Basses-Pyrénées, once a favourite pilgrimage. There is a lovely bridge +in the vicinity, and the Via Crucis just midway between the village and +the bridge. It is situated on the direct road from Pau to Lourdes, and +is 15 miles distant from the former, and 9-1/4 from the latter. The +station on the railway, "Montaut-Bétharram," is about 2 miles from the +village. + +Inns.--De la Poste, De France. Celebrated grotto in the +vicinity. + +BIARRITZ, a favourite English winter resort on the shores of +the Biscay, in the Basses-Pyrénées--2 miles from the Négresse station +on the direct line to Spain, and 130 miles from Bordeaux. Living during +the winter is considerably cheaper than at Pau, but the winds are much +stronger and the air more bracing. Biarritz makes a valuable change +from both Pau and Arcachon. It is free from epidemics, and beneficial +in cases of paralysis, as well as chest and heart complaints. + +Hotels.--De Paris et de Londres, || Il Grand Hotel, D'Angleterre +(the favourite hotel with English people), Des Ambassadeurs, De France, +Il Des Princes, De l'Europe, De la Poste, &c. + +Apartments.--All over the town, varying in price according to +position. Maison Brocq, || Maison Larrodé, || Maison Broquedis. + +English Pension.--Villa du Midi, || Rue des Champs. + +Doctors.--Dr. Welby, || Rue Gambetta. Dr. Malpas; Dr. +Girdlestone. + +Carriages.--Maümus, || Place St. Eugenie. Larrondat, Place de la +Marie. + +Libraries.--One in connection with the English Church. Lending +library at Victor Benquet's, Place de la Marie (stationer, £c.). + +Confectioners.--Figue, || Rue Mazagran; Miremont.|| Place de la +Marie. + +Photographer.--P. Frois, Rue du Port Vieux. + +Banker.--E. H. Bellairs, Esq. (Vice Consul), International +Bank. + +"Depot Anglais," for wines, groceries, and English provisions, +&c. + +English Club, Post and Telegraph Office. + +For principal excursions refer to Chapter XIII. + +BIDART.--The first Basque village, 3 miles from Biarritz on the +direct route to Spain--railway station, Bidart-Guétary. + +BIELLE.--A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, on the road to Eaux +Bonnes, in the Val d'Ossau, 18-1/4 miles from Pau. Inn, des Voyageurs. + +BILHÈRES.--A village on the slopes of the Val d'Ossau, above +Bielle, in the Basses-Pyrénées--celebrated for the copper mines in the +vicinity. It lies in the direct track from the Val d'Ossau to the +Vallée d'Aspe. + +BlLLÈRES.--A small village near Pau, in the Basses-Pyrénées on +the road to the ancient town of Lescar: the locally well-known "Bois de +Billères" take their name from it. + +BIZANOS.--A village below Pau, on the Gave, in the +Basses-Pyrénées, on the direct road to Lourdes. + +BOO-SILHEN.--A village and railway station on the line from +Lourdes to Pierrefitte, in the Hautes-Pyrénées. There is the site of an +ancient camp in the vicinity. + +BOSOST.--A village in Spain (18 miles from Luchon by the +Portillon), under the shadow of the Eastern Pyrénées, in the valley of +Aran. This is a most pleasing excursion from Luchon, either on +horseback viâ the Portillon, or in a carriage viâ St. Béat. See Chapter +X. Inn, Fonda d'España. + +CAMBO.--A small picturesquely-situated bathing resort on the +banks of the Nive, 10 miles from Bayonne, in the Basses-Pyrénées. A +favourite excursion from Biarritz, with the extra attraction of good +fishing. + +Bathing Establishment, with a hot sulphur and cold ferruginous +spring. The former has proved useful for its diuretic and laxative +qualities, and efficacious in cases of languor following long +illnesses: the latter is very rich in iron, and a useful tonic. + +The Climate is exceedingly healthy in spring and autumn, but too +warm in summer. + +Hotel.--St. Martin. + +Chocolate Manufactory.--Monsieur Fagalde's. + +Doctor.--M. Albert Dotézac. + +Carriages, Horses, and Asses, at various rates. + +CAMPAN (2192 ft.)--A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées (3-3/4 miles +from Bigorre) situated in the valley of the same name--on the direct +road from Bigorre to Luchon; possesses an ancient church and +market-place. + +CAPVERN.--A bathing resort in the Hautes-Pyrénées, built on a +hill two miles distant from the bathing establishments, which are +erected in a narrow ravine. One of the stations on the main line +between Toulouse and Pau, being 78 miles distant from the former and 56 +from the latter. The climate is mild, and the season lasts from the 15th +of May to the 1st of November. + +Two Bathing Establishments--De Hount-Caoudo and de Bouridé. The +water principally contains sulphate of lime with a small proportion of +carbonate of iron: its action is diuretic and laxative. It is an +excellent and bracing tonic, stimulating to the digestion, and has also +been beneficially employed in cases of catarrh and certain liver +complaints. The Hount-Caoudo spring has an exciting tendency; that of +Bouridé a sedative one. + +Hotels.--Grand, Beau Séjour, De Fontaine, De la Paix, Des Bains, etc. + +Post and Telegraph Office in the season. CASTETS.--A small +picturesquely-situated village in the Hautes-Pyrénées--off the high +road between Pau and Eaux Bonnes--under a mile from Louvie Juzon. +Lodging can be obtained at M. Fouga's. + +CAUTERETS (3254 ft.)--A town situated in the gorge of the same name in +the Hautes-Pyrénées, seven miles distant from Pierrefitte, the terminus +of the line from Lourdes. It is said to be the most rich in mineral +waters of any resort in the Pyrenees. From its position in a hollow, +surrounded by lofty and beautiful mountains, it is frequently visited +with a good deal of rain, and the climate is subject to severe changes +in temperature, especially in spring, when the mornings and nights are +cold. The season proper begins about the middle of June and lasts to +the 15th of September. Living out of the season averages about 10 frs. +per diem, but is much greater when once July has arrived, and +consequently it is always best to write and make terms beforehand. + +There are Nine Establishments for the Waters, among which twenty-four +springs are divided. The springs may be classed under two +heads--firstly, sodium sulphate; 2ndly, saline--both naturally heated. + +The three most important establishments are--Les Oeufs, La Raíllère, +and Les Thermes de Vieux César. The others are--Le Rocher-Rieumiset, +Manhourat et Les Yeux, Pauze Vieux, Pauze Nouveaux, Petit St. Sauveur, +and Le Pré; in addition to which there are two "buvettes," known as +Buvette de César and Le Bois. The waters at the César Vieux are the +most exciting of all, and prove beneficial in scrofulous and cutaneous +affections, rheumatism, and tumours. Les Oeufs are specially +efficacious in lung complaints; La Raíllère is used successfully in +affections of the respiratory passages; Mauhourat is specially +recommended to aid the digestion of La Raíllère's water; while Les Yeux +are beneficial for affections of the eyes--as the name suggests. Le +Petit St. Sauveur is efficacious in cases of hysteria and similar +complaints. + +Hotels.--Du Parc, || Continental, De France, Richelieu, Des Promenades, +Des Boulevards, De la Paix, De Londres, Des Bains, D'Angleterre, etc. + +Apartments to be found in all parts. The price of a single-bedded room +varies from 3 to 10 frs. in the season. Much less at other times. + +Doctors, in connection with the "Thermes," and many independent +ones. + +Chemists.--J. Latapie and M. Broca--both in the Place St. +Martin. + +Confectioners.--Patisserie Suisse, Rue César; Patisserie +Pyrénéenne, Rue de la Raillère. + +Horses and Carriages in plenty--good steeds at +Dominique's, Rue de la Raillère. + +Guides.--Sarrettes, Clément Latour, Latapie, Barraga, Bordenare; +and also Berret, Lac Dominique, and Pont Dominique. + +Post and Telegraph Office, Theatre, Casino, &c. Tariff +for bathing, &c., similar to other resorts. + +Horses for Excursions cost about 12 frs. for the day, for +an ordinary trip 6 frs.; and for a few hours' ride 4 to 5 frs., with 50 +cents to the ostler. + +Carriage from Argelès, 20 frs. with luggage; pourboire 3 +frs. + +The Chief Excursions are:-- + +To the Col de Riou.--Splendid view. Guide 6 frs., horses 6 frs. +Can be prolonged down the opposite side to St. Sauveur. + +To the Cascade de Cérizey, Pont d'Espagne, and Lac de +Gaube.--Guides each 8 frs., horses 6 frs. The favourite trip. + +Le Cabaliros.--6 hrs. up and down. Guide 10 frs., horses 10 frs. + +Le Monné.--7 hrs. up and down. Horses and guide 10 frs. each, +donkey 8 frs. Splendid view. + +Pic d'Enfer.--8-1/2 hrs. and 12 hrs. respectively by the two +routes. Good guides necessary--a difficult climb. + +For the Vallée de Lutour refer to Chapter V. Pic +d'Ardiden.--9 hrs. Guide essential--an interesting climb. + +Pic de Vignemale,--18 to 20 hrs. not including rests. Guides, +hatchets, and ropes necessary. Magnificent view from summit, but a very +difficult trip. + +CIER-de-Luchon.--A small village in the Haute Garonne, 4-1/2 +miles from Luchon on the railway from thence to Montrejeau. +CIERP.--A small village at the foot of a rock in the Pique +valley--dep. Haute-Garonne--near Marignac, station for St. Béat on the +line between Luchon and Montrejeau. COARBAZE.--A village in the +Basses-Pyrénées on the road between Pau and Lourdes. Railway station on +line connecting the above places; 10-1/2 miles from Pau. The ruins of a +castle in the neighbourhood, in which Henry IV. spent his childhood. +Refer to Chapter I. DAX.--A town on the Adour, and junction for +Bordeaux from the Bayonne and Pau lines. Celebrated for its baths, +which are of three kinds, steam, mud, and water. There are several +bathing establishments, but the Grand Etablissement is the best, where +board and lodging can be also obtained, at an all-round figure, +including baths, of from 10 to 15 frs. per diem. These baths are very +useful for affections of the larynx, articular enlargements, and most +kinds of rheumatism and neuralgia. When drunk the water has a tonic and +diuretic effect. + +Hotels.--De la Paix, Du Nord, De France, Figaro, De l'Europe. + +There are enjoyable walks about the town and some old ruins; and in the +vicinity a bed of fossil salt. + +EAUX BONNES is a miniature Spa hemmed in by the sides of a +wooded gorge in the Basses-Pyrénées--27-1/2 miles from Pau and 6-1/4 +from Eaux Chaudes; railway communication as far as Laruns ought now to +be established: refer to Chapter XII. The waters, hot and cold, consist +of five springs, sulphuret of sodium being largely present in all, and +sulphate of lime in a less degree. There are two establishments +--the Grand and the Ortech; but the former is far the most +commodious, though the water is used for drinking purposes almost +more than for bathing. The temperature varies in the different springs +from 54° to 88° Fahr. The waters are specially recommended in cases of +pulmonary consumption and affections of the air passages--also for +chronic maladies of the abdominal viscera, intermittent fevers, +hypochondria, and hysteria. + +The Tariff is similar to that at the other Spas. Season, +July and August. + +The Climate is mild, but warm in summer. + +Hotels.--De France, || Princes, Empereurs, Richelieu, Poste, +Europe, Sallenave, Des Touristes, D'Espagne et d'Orient, De l'Univers, +etc. + +Apartments all over the town. The following are a few of the +houses that let rooms:--Bonnecaze, Pommé, Berdou, Tourné. Living in +hotels during the season costs from 10 to 20 frs., according to +_étage,_ per diem. + +Chemists.--Cazaux fils, and Tourné. + +Confectioners.--Patisserie Suisse. + +Post and Telegraph Office.--The Route Thermale runs from +Eaux Bonnes to Argelès, 26-1/2 miles: see Chapter XII. + +Doctors in connection with the baths, and independent ones. + +Horses and Carriages at the hotels, etc. + +Guides.--Orteig, Lanusse, and Jean Pierre for lofty summits; also +Maucor and Caillau, who, with Lanusse, are Horse proprietors +as well. It is necessary to bargain about prices, as there +is no fixed tariff, but 10 to 13 frs. per diem for ordinary +trips ought to suffice, without providing food--with food, 3 or 4 frs. +less. + +The Chief Excursions are:-- + +For the Col de Gourzy and the Cascades du Valentin refer to Chapter +XII. + +Pic de Ger.--10 to 12 hours there and back. Guide 20 frs. and +provisions necessary. Magnificent view. + +Le Gabizos.--Whole day; provisions, liquor, and guide necessary. +A tiring climb, but one of the finest views in the Pyrenees. + +Pic de Goupey.--7 hours up and down; guide necessary. + +Pic de St. Mont.--9 hours up and down, easy climb, guide not +necessary. + +Lacs d'Anglas et d'Uzious.--Guide and provisions necessary; a +whole day; splendid excursion. + +EAUX CHAUDES.--Another miniature Spa--less contracted in its +position, but equally picturesquely situated in a wild gorge in the +Basses-Pyrénées, 27-1/2 miles from Pau. The climate is bracing, but on +account of the situation of the town it is not so good a residence for +invalids with chest complaints as Eaux Bonnes--as the wind sweeps up +the valley unchecked. It is, however, a glorious place for healthy +people to stay in, and a good centre for excursions. + +The Bathing Establishment is a fine building with good accommodation. +There are seven important springs and two of less consequence; +and they partake of the same nature as those of Eaux Bonnes, +though the temperature extends about 10° Fahr. higher. They are +largely charged with sulphur and lime, in combination with carbon and +soda, and have an exciting action. They are especially useful in cases +of catarrh, rheumatism, cutaneous diseases, and neuralgia. The +"buvettes" of Baudot and Minvielle are largely patronised. + +Hotels.--Baudot, || De France; and more expensive accommodation +at "L'Etablissement Thermal." + +Prices are less than at Eaux Bonnes. In the season they range from 10 +to 16 frs., but from 8 to 12 at other times, "En Pension."--For one day +or less than a week no fixed price can be quoted. + +Doctors.--One in connection with the establishment. + +Horses and Carriages to be obtained at the hotels or from the guides, +who are mostly horse proprietors. + +Guides.--Camy, Labarthe, Larrouy, Eugène Olivan, Jean Sallenave. +Tariff not fixed, but 7 to 9 frs. per diem without providing food is +sufficient, and 5 to 8 frs. for horses--though this is only for +ordinary excursions and not perilous ones. + +Bathing Tariff.--Similar to that of other Spas. + +Chief Excursions are:-- + +Goust.--1 hour there and back; mule track. + +Grotte des Eaux Chaudes.--2 hours there and back--for lights and +permit 1 fr. 50 c. each is charged, guide 2 frs. + +Gabas and the Bious-Artigues.--See Chapter XII. Rather over 8 +miles; carriage road to Gabas, fine and pleasant trip. + +Baths of Panticosa.--13 to 15 hours by the mule track; a +favourite way into Spain. + +To Huesca by Sallent and Jaca, a very lengthy trip, requiring +several days. + +Pic Scarput.--10 hours up and down; a very fine climb. + +Lac d'Artouste.--10 hours up and down; a viper region. + +Pic d'Arriel.--10 hours up and down; an exceedingly fine view +from summit, but not an easy climb. + +Le Balaïtous--14 hours. For ascension only, it is necessary to +have good guides (at least two), as well as provisions, and to pass the +night on the mountain in the Cabanes near the Lac d'Artouste. A +difficult excursion, not unattended with considerable danger. + + +FONTARABIE (Fuenterabia, Sp.). A quaint old Spanish town on the +left bank of the Bidassoa, just across the frontier, well worthy of a +visit. About equidistant from the stations of Hendaye (Fr.) and Irun +(Sp.) on the direct line from Bordeaux to Madrid. A pleasant excursion +from Biarritz. + + +GABAS.--A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, 5 miles from Eaux +Chaudes, near the famous plateau of the Bious-Artigues. Inn +accommodation can be had, and it is a good starting-point for several +excursions. + + +GAN.--A village in the Val d'Ossau in the Basses-Pyrénées, 5 +miles from Pau. The road from Pau forks here, one branch leading to +Oloron (15-1/2 miles), the other to Eaux Bonnes and Eaux Chaudes +(22-1/2 miles). There are some mosaics under a shed in the vicinity. +Hôtel (such as it is), Des Voyageurs. + + +GAVARNIE (4380 ft.). An unpretentious village with good hotel +accommodation, situated among some of the most magnificent scenery in +the Hautes-Pyrénées, 13 miles from Luz. For full description of the +Cirque of Gavarnie refer to Chapter VIII., also for the Falls of +Marboré, 1380 ft. + +Hotels.--Des Voyageurs;|| De la Cascade. + +There are several Mountains to be ascended in the neighbourhood +requiring experienced guides; among which are Le Piméné, the Brèche de +Roland, Le Taillon, Le Gabiétou, Le Marboré, Pic d'Astazou, and the +Mont Perdu; but for further information the traveller is referred to +the previously recommended authorities. + +No Guides have a better reputation than those of Gavarnie, and +of these Henri Passet and Celestin Passet have made all the great +ascents of the French and Spanish Pyrenees; Pierre Pujo, Pierre Brioul, +Poc, and Haurine are also men of experience in mountaineering. + +[Illustration: CIRQUE OF THE VALLÉE DU LYS NEAR BAGNÈRES-DE LUCHON.] + +Horses to the Cirque, 2 frs. each. Guides, 2 frs. each. +Asses, 1 1/2 fr. each. + +GAZOST-les-Bains.--A village in the Vallée du Nez, 7 1/3 miles +from Lugagnan (the nearest station), on the line between Pierrefitte +and Lourdes, in the Basses-Pyrénées. The baths, fed by four cold +sulphurous springs, are less than 3/4 of a mile from the village, where +there is a large sawmill. Very few people visit the baths, and they are +in a miserable state. There are copper, zinc, and argentiferous lead +mines in the neighbourhood. + +Rooms at the Châlet de la Scieric. + +GÈDRE (3214 ft.).--A poor village in lovely scenery (see +engraving, page 122), on the side of a rocky gorge in the +Hautes-Pyrénées, 8 miles from Luz and 4 from Gavarnie, on the direct +road between the two. + +Hotels.--Des Voyageurs, Palasset. + +For information on the so-called Grotte de Gèdre see Chapter VIII. The +two chief excursions from Gèdre are those to the Vallée de Héas +and the Cirque de Troumouse, though they may be considered as one trip +here. From Gèdre to the chapel of Héas 2 to 2 1/2 hours, from the +chapel to the fork of the road 1/2 hour, and from thence to the Cirque +1 hour. This is a very fine excursion, occasionally undertaken from Luz +and St. Sauveur. + +GERDE.--A village in the Campan valley, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, +near Bigorre. Known chiefly for the _palomières_ or pigeon traps +among the trees above it. See Chapter II. + +GRIPP (3448 ft.).--A well-situated village in the +Hautes-Pyrénées, on the Route Thermale, between Bigorre and Barèges, 2 +1/2 miles from Ste. Marie. Tourists often find the Hôtel des Voyageurs +comfortable enough to keep them there for a few days. A little beyond +the village on the old road are the Baths of Bagnet, supplied by +a cold sulphurous spring; they do not, however, call for much mention. +The Falls of Garet are in the immediate vicinity. + +GRUST.--A small village in the Hautes-Pyrénées. Refer to Sazos +in Appendix. + +GUÉTARY.--A Basque village in the Basses-Pyrénées, 3 miles from +Biarritz. The railway station, Bidart-Guétary, on the line between +Bordeaux and Madrid, is not far from the village. + +HÉAS.--A hamlet in the Hautes-Pyrénées, five miles from Gèdre +and eight from Gavarnie, by the Piméné. + +Inn.--De la Munia, kept by Victor Chappelle, hunter; besides +whom, Jacques Canton and François Lavignolle, chamois-hunters, are +excellent guides. Chief excursion to the Cirque de Troumouse. See +Gèdre. + +HENDAYE.--The French frontier town on the Bay of Biscay in the +Basses-Pyrénées, known for the manufacture of a liqueur of the same +name. French Custom-house; station on the line between Bordeaux and +Madrid. Good beach and bathing. Boats can be hired to cross the +Bidassoa to Fuenterabia, at about 2 frs. for 3 persons; for information +concerning which see Chapter XIII. + +Buffet at the station. + +Money changed. + +Hotels/.--De France, Du Commerce, Americani. + +IRUN.--The Spanish frontier town and railway station on the +direct line between Bordeaux and Spain. Spanish Customhouse. + +Buffet at the station, also a money changer. + +Hotels.--Echenique, De Arupe. + +IZESTE.--A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, near Louvie-Juzon and +Arudy, on the road between Eaux Bonnes and Oloron. + +JACA.--A fortified town of Spain on the banks of the Aragon, +521/2 miles from Oloron, on the direct route to Huesca, from +which it is 571/2 miles distant. + +LABASSÈRE.--A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, celebrated for its +waters and slate quarries (refer to Bagnères de Bigorre). It is 11/2 +hrs. distant from Bigorre; but its quarries take 1/2 hr. longer to +reach, and the springs 1 hour after that. The celebrated water is +bottled at the springs, but it is also sent in casks for use in +Bagnères de Bigorre. + +LAMOTHE.--A small village in the Landes, 25 miles from Bordeaux. +Junction for Arcachon, 10 miles distant. + +LARUNS.--An important though tumble-down village in the Val +d'Ossau, in the Basses-Pyrénées, 31/4 miles from Eaux Bonnes and the +same from Eaux Chaudes. The railway from Pau now extends to Laruns, 24 +miles (see Chapter XII.), but the drive is more enjoyable, except on a +dusty day. The picturesque costumes of the Ossau valley may still be +seen occasionally at this village. + +Hotels.--Des Touristes, Des Pyrénées. Living economical. + +LESCAR.--An ancient and decaying town, 41/2 miles from Pau by +rail. Several interesting ruins, &c., for which refer to Chapter I. + +LOURDES.--A town in the Hautes-Pyrénées, and railway station on +the direct line from Pau to Toulouse, and junction with the line to +Pierrefitte. The great Roman Catholic Pilgrimage, having now quite +eclipsed Bétharram, much visited formerly as a shrine. The grotto where +the Virgin is supposed to have appeared is by the riverside. An +admirable panorama represents the scene at one of these imaginary +apparitions of the Virgin--known as Notre Dame de Lourdes, and always +represented in that connection with a blue sash. Five and twenty years +and superstition have transformed Lourdes from a little village into a +fair-sized town, overloaded with hotels, of which the traveller is +advised to be wary, especially during the pilgrim season, when the beds +are apt to have other occupants than the "weary traveller's form." The +Hôtel des Pyrénées may be trusted. + +Hotels.--Des Pyrénées || (Mons. R. Lacrampe); Latapie; De la +Grotte, De la Poste, De Paris, De l'Europe, De la Paix, D'Angleterre, +&c. + +Excellent Carriages on hire in the town and at the hotels. + +Excursions to the Lac de Lourdes, &c. + +LOURES (1445 ft.).--A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, 17 1/2 +miles from Luchon and 3 from St. Bertrand de Comminges (see Chapter +XI.), for which it is the station on the railway between Luchon and +Montrejeau, and carriages await trains. + +Hotels.--Pyrénées, Lassus. + +LOUVIE-JUZON.--A village in the Val d'Ossau, Basses-Pyrénées, 16 +miles from Pau, n. from Eaux Bonnes, and less than a mile from the +ruins of the ancient castle of Géloz. There is a curious old church in +the village, and the inn where the diligence daily halts is known as +the Hôtel des Pyrénées. + +LOUVIE SOUBIBON.--A small village at the foot of a mountain +worked for its slates, 4 miles from the above. + +LUZ (2410 ft.).--A well-situated village in a fertile valley in +the Hautes-Pyrénées, 6 1/4 miles from Pierrefitte, the terminus of the +line to Lourdes, 1 1/4 from St. Sauveur, and 3 3/4 from Barèges. From +the last-named it receives water for its new Bathing Establishment (see +Bareges in Appendix). + +Hotels.--De l'Univers, || Des Pyrénées, De l'Europe, &c. + +Apartments may also be obtained. Living is not on the whole +expensive, but from July to September from 10 to 16 frs. may be +charged--much less at other times (say from 7 to 10). + +Carriages and Horses, Asses and Guides can be +obtained for the various excursions (for which see St. Sauveur in +Appendix). + +Post and Telegraph Office. + +For description of the old Church of the Templars and the Château St. +Marie, &c., refer to Chapter VI. MAULÉON-BAROUSSE.--In the +valley of Barousse, Hautes-Pyrénées, 3 1/4 miles from Saléchan, on the +line between Montrejeau and Luchon; 4 1/2 miles from Ste. Marie (not to +be confounded with the Ste. Marie near Bigorre). + +Inn.--M. Grillon's. + +MOLITG-les-Bains (1480 ft.).--Built on a terrace above the +Castellane Gorge in the Pyrénées Orientales, 5-1/2 miles from Prades +and 31 from Perpignan. + +The Bathing Establishments (of which there are three) are +situated a mile below the village, in the gorge, and they are supplied +by 10 springs of a similar nature, largely charged with sulphate of +soda, and of temperatures varying from 88° to 100° Fahr. The water has +emollient and sedative properties, slightly diuretic, and is especially +useful in diseases of the skin and nerves. + +The Climate is very mild in winter, but hot in summer; and the +season extends from May to October. + +Hotels.--The best accommodation is to be had at the bathing +establishments Barrère, Llupia, and Massia, all of which belong to M. +Massia, who is a doctor by profession. + +Chief Excursions are:-- + +To Olette by the Gourgs de Nohèdes (11 hours there and back). + +To the Baths of Carcanières (about 11 hours there _only_) +_via_ Mosset. + +MONTAUBAN.--A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, 1-1/2 miles from +Luchon (see Chapter X.), known for its church and cascade. + +MONTGAILLARD.--A village on the banks of the Adour, in the +Hautes-Pyrénées, 5 miles from Bigorre: station on the line between +Bigorre and Tarbes. + +MONTREJEAU.--A town standing on an eminence above the river in +the Haute-Garonne, junction for Luchon from the Pau-Toulouse line. + +Hotels.--Leclair (fine situation); Pouget, well-known; &c. + +Buffet at the station. Refer to Chapter XI. for further +information. + +MORCENZ.--A town in the "Landes" district, 68 miles from +Bordeaux, and junction for the Tarbes-Bigorre line. There is a small +bathing establishment in the town, supplied by a cold chalybeate +spring; and a quarry of lithographic stone in the neighbourhood. + +Buffet at station. + +Inns.--Commerce, Ambassadeurs. + +NAY.--An ancient village in the Basses-Pyrénées, on the left +bank of the Gave de Pau. Station, Coarraze-Nay, on the line from +Pau to Lourdes; 10-1/2 miles from the former and 14 from the latter. +Tanneries, &c., and ancient buildings. See Chapter I. + +Inns.--Du Commerce, De France. + +NÉGRESSE.--The station for Biarritz (2 miles from the town), on +the direct line between Bordeaux and Madrid. + +NESTALAS.--A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, near Pierrefitte; +the station being known as Pierrefitte-Nestalas, the terminus of the +line from Lourdes. Hotel accommodation at Pierrefitte (which see in +Appendix). + +OLORON.--A town on a hill above the river of same name, in the +Basses-Pyrénées, 20 miles from Pau, by Gan and Belair. Its suburb +(across the river) Sainte Marie possesses a fine old church of the +Transition style. The railway was to be opened this year (1883) in +communication with Pau and Laruns. Oloron is celebrated for some +exquisite pottery, that can be bought in all the chief Pyrenean resorts +_except_ the town itself. + +Hotels.--De la Poste, Des Voyageurs, De l'Aigle. + +Oo.--A small village with an ancient church, in the +Haute-Garonne, 5-1/2 miles from Luchon, and 4-1/2 from the lake of the +same name. + +Guide.--Jean Brunet. + +ORTHEZ.--An ancient town situated on a hill above the Gave de +Pau, in the Basses-Pyrénées. The Tour de Moncade, in the vicinity, has +great historic interest, besides which there is an ancient bridge and +other remains of olden days (see Chapter I.). Coach to Salies (10 +miles), and Mauléon-Licharre (27 miles). + +Inns.--De la Belle-hôtesse, Des Pyrénées, &c. + +PAILLOLE (or Payole).--A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, 11-1/4 +miles from Bigorre, on the Route Thermale, _via_ the Col de +Peyresourde to Luchon. See Chapters I. and IX. + +Inn.--De la Poste. + +PANTICOSA.--A village in Spain, 24 miles from Cauterets, +celebrated for its waters. The bathing establishments are fed by four +springs of the sulphurous type. They are variously used for dyspepsia, +rheumatism, skin diseases, scrofula, and chronic (non-tubercular) +chest affections. They have a purgative and sedative action. + +Hotels.--Accommodation can be best obtained in the nine +different bathing establishments belonging to the same proprietor; +there are also the D'Espagne and FrancoEspagnol. + +Horses.--At about 5 to 7 francs per diem, at the Maison Borda. + +Doctors.--Attached to the establishments. + +PASAGES.--A village on the shores of a tidal bay in Spain, 30 +miles from Bayonne and 6-1/4 from Irun. It was once the safest port in +the Biscay. Refer to Chapter XIII. + +PAU (770 ft.).--A former capital, and most important town on the +right bank of the Gave of same name, in the Basses-Pyrénées. A +favourite winter resort with English and Americans, possessing hotels, +markets, and shops of the best and most varied descriptions. An +excellent starting-point for a tour in the Pyrenees. For history, &c., +see Chapter I. + +Hotels.--France, || Poste, || Gassion, De la Paix, Splendide +Bellevue, Beau Séjour, || Grand Continental, De Londres, Henri IV., &c. + +Pensions.--Colbert, || Hattersly, Etcherbest, Lecour, &c. + +Apartments.--All over the town. + +Season.--1st of October to end of May. + +Villas. Can be hired furnished, for the season, at prices +varying from £8 per month to £80. + +Baths.--Rue Alexander Taylor, and 13 Rue d'Orleanb, &c. + +Carriage Proprietors.--Ranguedat, || Crohare, || &c. £c. + +Horse Proprietors.--Estrade, || Peiho, || Lanusse. + +T-Carts and Good Ponies.--Schürch, Rue de la Fontaine. + +English Churches.--Trinity Church, Rue des Temples; Christ +Church, Rue Serviez; St Andrew's Church, Rue Calas; Presbyterian +Church, Rue Montpensier. + +Bankers.--Merillon, || will take English cheques, &c.; Mr. +Church, English Vice-Consul; Mr. M. Clay, U. S. ViceConsul; Tricou, &c. + +Post and Telegraph Office, Reading--Rooms, Theatre, Casino, +&c. + +English Club.--Place Royale. + +For the principal Excursions and sports and pastimes, refer to +Chapter I.; for trips to Eaux Bonnes and Eaux Chaudes, refer to Chapter +XIII. + +PAYOLE.--See Paillole in Appendix. + +PERPIGNAN.--A large town on the river Tet, in the Pyrénées +Orientales, junction for Prades (station for Vernet), from the Toulouse +line and starting-point of the coach for Amélie; 132 miles from +Toulouse, 25 1/2 from Prades, 29 1/2 from Molitg, 32 1/2 from Vernet, +and 23 1/2 from Amélie. It is fortified; celebrated for its garnet +jewellery; and situated in a valley covered with groves of olive and +pomegranate, and fruitful vineyards. Cathedral; château (splendid view +from donjon tower) in the Citadol, entrance i fr.; theatre, Picture +Gallery, &c. + +Hotels.--Grand, De France, De l'Europe, Du Petit Paris, &c. + +Post and Telegraph Office. + +The Chief Excursions are:-- + +La Salanque, the whole day, by carriage _via_ St. Laurent +de la Salanque; Torreilles; Ste. Marie and Villelongue de la Salanque. + +Castell Rossello et Canet.--6 1/4 miles; carriage-road part of +the way. + +PEYREHORADE.--Village in the Landes, and station on the line +between Puyoo (13 miles) and Bayonne (19 miles). + +Inns.--Lafond Des Voyageurs. + +PIERREFITTE.[Footnote: The station is called +Pierrefitte-Nestalas.]--A village situated at the foot of the Pic de +Soulom and the Gorge de Cauterets in the Hautes Pyrénées. Terminus of +the railway line from Lourdes, and starting-point for the diligences to +Cauterets, Luz, St. Sauveur, and Barèges. + +Hotels.--De la Poste, || Des Pyrénées, De France. Living more +moderate than at any of the above-mentioned towns or Argelès. For +further information see Chapter IV. + +PRESTE-LES-BAINS.--A bathing-resort in the Eastern Pyrenees, 19 +miles from Amélie (to which refer in Appendix), and 42-1/2 from +Perpignan, the nearest railway station. + +The Bathing Establishment is supplied by one sulphurous spring +only, partaking of much the same properties as the more celebrated ones +at the larger resorts, being specially beneficial, when drunk, for +lithiasis and catarrh of the bladder. + +Hotel accommodation in the Bathing Establishment. + +Season.--June to October. + +PUYOO.--A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, one mile distant from +the station of same name; junction for Bayonne from the line between +Bordeaux and Pau; from which it is 11-1/2 miles and 32-1/2 miles +distant, respectively. + +Hotels.--Lafont, Voyageurs. + +RÉBENAC.--A village in the Val de Néez, Basses-Pyrénées, 10 +miles from Pau, and 17-1/2 from Eaux Bonnes on the direct route, +between the two. + +Inn.--Du Perigord. + +SAINT AVENTIN (2805 ft.).--A village in the Haute-Garonne, +2-3/4 miles from Luchon, on the Route Thermale. Known for the chapel of +same name, to which a legend is attached. + +SAINT BÉAT.--A village in the Haute-Garonne, 3-1/4 miles from +Marignac, a station on the line between Luchon and Montrejeau, from +which it is 9-1/2 and 13 miles distant respectively. A favourite drive +from Luchon (see Chapter XI. and Luchon in Appendix), road to Viella +_via_ Bosost. + +Inn.--Commerce. + +SAINT BERTRAND DE COMMINGES.--An ancient Roman town in the +Haute-Garonne, 3 miles from Loures station on the Luchon-Montrejeau +line, For information respecting the old cathedral, &c., refer to +Chapter XI. + +Inn.--De Comminges. + +The Grotto de Gargas is in the vicinity. Guides must be hired at St. +Bertrand. + +SAINT CHRISTAU.--A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, 5 miles from +Oloron, from which it is a lovely drive. + +Two Bathing Establishments, fed by four sources, one of which is +calcareous, and the rest of a sulphurous nature. They are useful for +curing wounds, rheumatism, skin diseases, eczema, laryngitis, and +affections of the eyes. + +Hotels.--Poste, Grand Turc, Mogul; also Chalets, and +rooms from 2 to 5 francs per diem. + +There are many pleasant walks in the neighbourhood, and excellent +fishing. + +SAINTE MARIE (près Bigorre).--A village in the Campan valley, +Hautes-Pyrénées, at the fork of the Route Thermale from Bigorre (see +Chapter II.). It is distant 7-1/2 miles from Bigorre, 17-1/2 from +Barèges by the Col de Tourmalet route, and 36 from Luchon by the Col +d'Aspin. + +SAINTE MARIE (près Oloron).--A suburb of Oloron, on the opposite +bank of the river Aspe. See Oloron in Appendix. + +SAINTE MARIE (près St. Laurent).--A small village on a hill in +the Eastern Pyrenees, 2-1/2 miles from St. Laurent de la Salanque, and +7-1/2 from Perpignan. + +SAINTE MARIE (près Saléchan).--A small bathing resort, situated +in a lovely valley in the Hautes-Pyrénées about 1 mile from Saléchan +station on the Luchon-Montrejeau line. + +The Bathing Establishment is supplied by four cold springs, +containing sulphate of lime principally, but also small quantities of +magnesia and soda. The water is heated for bathing purposes, but drunk +in its natural state. It is tonic in its action, but diuretic and +purgative as well, and is used efficaciously in liver complaints, +dyspepsia, neuralgia, and nervous irritability. Hotel accommodation +in the Bathing Establishment and Apartments in the houses near it. + +SAINT JEAN DE LUZ.--A watering-place on the Bay of Biscay, in +the Basses-Pyrénées, 8 miles from Biarritz, which it is very anxious to +outrival. It is well protected from the winds, but is less free from +dampness in its climate on the same account. It possesses an old church +and several historical buildings, and is one of the favourite drives +from Biarritz. Refer to Chapter XIII. + +Hotels.--De la Poste, De France, D'Angleterre et de la Plage, De +l'Océan, De Madrid. + +Apartments and Houses furnished in the town. + +Sea-Bathing Establishment, Casino, &c. + +SAINT LAURENT DE LA SALANQUE.--A town in the Eastern Pyrenees, +with a good agricultural and commercial industry, 8-3/4 miles from +Perpignan. + +Hotels.--Got, Garriques. + +SAINT MAMET.--A village in the Haute-Garonne, 3/4 mile from +Luchon (see Chapter X.). The church is interesting. + +SAINT PÉ.--A village built on an eminence in the Hautes-Pyrénées, +and station on the railway between Pau and Lourdes, 18 miles from +the one and 6-1/4 from the other. + +SAINT PÉE-sur-Nivelles.--A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, on +the route between St. Jean de Luz and Cambo--8-3/4 miles from the +former, and 10 miles from the latter. + +SAINT SAUVEUR (2525 ft.).--A bathing and mountain resort in the +Hautes-Pyrénées, 7 miles from Pierrefitte--the nearest station--1-1/4 +from Luz, and 5 from Barèges. A most charming place for a spring or +summer residence, being beautifully situated and possessing numerous +pleasant walks in the vicinity. See Chapter VII. + +Two Bathing Establishments, each supplied by one spring, in +which sulphuret of sodium predominates. The water is largely diuretic +in its action, having at the same time a tonic and anti-spasmodic +effect. Its sedative properties are beneficial to the nervous system +generally, and it proves useful in removing the after-effects of long +illnesses, hæmorrhages, &c., besides being pleasant to the skin. + +Hotels.--De France, || Des Bains, || Du Parc, Des Princes, De +Paris. + +Guides (living at Luz).--Martin, Noguez, Fortanet, and Bernard +senior. For lofty summits, such as the Pic d'Ardiden, and for other +excursions, Lons, Pratdessus, and Cramp Brothers. + +Horses may generally be obtained from them, and Carriages +(at Luz) as well. + +Post and Telegraph during the season only, but letters +and telegrams are forwarded from Luz at other times, there being one +delivery and one collection of the former daily. + +Chief Excursions:-- + +To Bareges.--10 to 15 frs. landau; 2 frs. pourboire. See Chapter +VI. + +To Sazos and Grust.--See Chapter VII. + +To Gavarnie.--Landau and four horses, 15 to 25 frs.; pourboire, +3 frs. Horses and guide to the Cirque, each 2 frs. from Gavarnie. See +Chapter VIII. + +The Pic de Bergons.--4 frs. each horse, guide 5 frs. out of +season, 6 frs. each in season. Refer to Chapter VII. + +The Pic de Viscos.--7 hours up and down. Guide 10 frs., horse 8 +frs. Via Grust; a pleasant excursion. + +Pic de Néré.--8 hours there and back. Horse 10 frs., guide 12 +frs. Horse-track three-quarters of the way; an easy and pleasant climb. + +Pic d'Ardiden.--8-1/2 hours up and down. Guide necessary. A fine +but difficult climb. + +SAINT SAVIN.--A very ancient village in the Argelès valley, in +the Hautes-Pyrénées; fully described in Chapter IV. + +SAINT SÉBASTIEN.--A town in the north of Spain, on the shores of +the Biscay, 163-1/2 miles from Bordeaux, 35 from Biarritz, and 19 from +Hendaye (the French frontier town). Possessing a fine citadel, +bull-ring, beach, and bathing establishment, and two fine churches. See +Chapter XIII. + +Hotels.--De Londres, || De Escurra, Anglais, De Arrese, De +Berdejo, &c. + +SALÉCHAN.--A village in the Garonne valley, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, +and station on the Montrejeau-Luchon line for Ste. Marie (baths) +and Siradan (baths). + +SALIES.--A town on the river of same name, in the Basses-Pyrénées, +10 miles from Orthez, the nearest station. + +It is celebrated for its salt springs; and Bayonne hams are said to owe +their fine (?) flavour to the use of the salt produced from them. + +Hotels.--Du Cheval Blanc, De France, De Paris. + +SAZOS.--A small village near St. Sauveur, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, +below the hamlet of Grust. For description of church, &c., refer +to Chapter VII. + +SIRADAN.--A small bathing resort in the valley of same name, in +the Hautes-Pyrénées, with a bathing establishment and hotel in one +building, 2 miles from Saléchan station on the Luchon-Montrejeau line. +The springs contain sulphuret of lime and bicarbonate of iron. They +have a similar effect to those of Ste. Marie (1 mile distant), but tend +to excite more strongly. The water stands bottling well. + +SOULOM.--A small village at the foot of the peak of same name, +in the Hautes-Pyrénées, near Pierrefitte, possessing a curious old +church. See Chapter IV. + +TARBES.--A large town on the Adour, in the Hautes-Pyrénées. +Station on the railway between Pau and Toulouse, and junction for the +Bigorre and Morcenz lines. Cavalry barracks, cathedral, &c. Buffet at +the station. See Chapter III. + +Hotels.--De la Paix, France, Commerce. + +URRUGNE.--A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, 2-1/2 miles from St. +Jean de Luz. + +USTARITZ.--The name of two villages, formerly separate, in the +Basses-Pyrénées, 8-3/4 miles from Bayonne, on the carriage-road thence +_via_ Elizondo to Pampeluna (63 miles). + +VALCABRÈRE.--A small village in the Haute-Garonne, 2 miles from +Loures station on the Luchon-Montrejeau line, celebrated for the Church +of St. Just, a venerable pile in the vicinity. + +VENASQUE.--A small and prosperous town in Spain, 9 hours from +Luchon (21 miles) by the _Port_ of the same name. There are some +baths similar in their uses to those of Luchon, fed by sulphurous +springs at some distance from the town, and 2-1/2 hours nearer Luchon. + +Excellent accommodation can be obtained at the Casa san Mimi +(Antonio Saora) for travellers. + +VERNET-LES-BAINS (2050 ft.), a bathing resort situated in a +hollow in the Eastern Pyrenees, 7 miles from the nearest railway +station. + +There are several springs which supply the large Bathing +Establishment and the smaller Thermes Mercader. The water is +largely charged with sulphate of lime, and possesses properties similar +to other waters of that type. It is especially useful in affections of +the air-passages and skin complaints, and is more or less exciting +according to the springs. The climate is mild, and therefore Vernet has +some reputation as a winter resort, being very little colder than +Amélie (to which refer in Appendix). + +Hotels.--Des Commandants (in the bathing establishment), Du +Parc, Ibrahim Pacha et des Bains, Du Canigou, &c. + +Villas furnished to be let. + +Carriages and Horses. + +Post and Telegraph Office, Theatre, Clubs, &c. + +Guide.--Michael Nou. + +Chief Excursions:-- + +The Canigou (9144 ft.)--11 hours up and down. Guide +recommended, also provisions. Horses 10 frs., guide 10 frs. Horses can +go within a mile of the top, from which the view is splendid. The +ascent is long but not difficult. + +The Fountain des Esquereyres.--_Via_ Castell, 1/2 hour; a +pleasant walk. + +Tour de Goa.--4 hours up and down. An interesting battlemented +tower, with a fine view. + +Vallée de Sahorre.--3 hours there and back; an enjoyable trip. + +Cascade de Cadi.--6 hours there and back; guide recommended. + +The Abbey of Canigou.--2-1/2 hours there and back; guide +unnecessary. An interesting ruin. + +Vieuzac.--A suburb of Argelès, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, +possessing a donjon tower. The station on the line from Lourdes is +called Argelès-Vieuzac. + +Villelongue.--A small village in the Argelès valley, in the +Hautes-Pyrénées, near Pierrefitte. See Chapter IV. + + + + +APPENDIX B + +RAILWAY INFORMATION AND SKELETON ROUTES TO THE CHIEF RESORTS IN THE +PYRENEES. + + +For the ordinary traveller a "Continental Bradshaw" is as useful a +railway guide as any, especially if his knowledge of French is limited, +but the time tables published by Chaix and Cie. are also most excellent +in every way. Of these the best and most expensive is the "Livret-Chaix +Continental," price 2 frs, containing all continental railways and a +complete index. A cheaper time table is the "Indicateur des Chemins de +Fer," published by the same firm, price 1/2 fr., which gives the French +railways only, with map and index. Besides these, all the principal +lines have time tables of their own, price 30 cents. + +It is advisable, when people are travelling as a party, that they +should have their luggage all weighed together, presenting the whole of +the tickets at the same time; this not only frequently saves expense, +but, as the number of persons is marked by the luggage clerk on their +baggage receipt, it is a guarantee that each has bought a ticket, which +saves trouble if one should happen to be lost. + +When people are stopping the night _en route_ at a place, and do +not wish to take their registered luggage to the hotel, only to have to +bring it back for re-registration next day, they have simply to leave +it in the station, and when starting again on the morrow to tell the +porter--when they give him the baggage ticket--that it was left +overnight (for which the charge is 1d. per package), whereupon he will +register it without further trouble. + +If a ticket is taken for the wrong station (by mistake) and the luggage +is accordingly registered wrongly too, the passenger must represent the +same to the station-master and ask him to allow a change to be made; if +there is not time to do this the luggage clerk may take the +responsibility--if the urgency of the case is made _argentiferously_ +clear--but the plan is not recommended. _It is important +to know_ that if a traveller misses his train he _must present_ +his _ticket_ at the ticket office to be _restamped_ in order +to make it again available--otherwise it is liable to be forfeited. + +Travellers will also save themselves much trouble by settling which +hotel they intend to go to, before arriving at their destination; and +it must be fully understood that for the carrying of small parcels +taken into the carriage, the aid of porters can _never_ be counted +on. See Chapter XI. + +Luggage not exceeding 30 kilogrammes (_i.e._ 66 lbs. Eng.) is +carried free; 1d. being charged for the registration thereof. + + * * * * * + +_Routes from London to Paris._ + +_Route_ 1.--_Via_ Dover, Calais, Montreuil, Abbeville, Amiens, +Claremont, and Creil: the quickest route. + +_Route_ 2.--_Via_ Folkestone, Boulogne, Montreuil, &c. as above. + +_Route_ 3.--_Via_ Newhaven, Dieppe, Rouen, Gaillon, Mantes, and +Poissy: the least expensive route. + +_From Liverpool to Bordeaux._ + +_Route_ 4.--Per Pacific Steam Navigation Co.'s steamers, fortnightly, +sailing on Wednesdays; average passage 2-1/2 days. + +_From London to Bordeaux._ + +_Route_. 5.--Per General Steam Navigation Co.'s steamers, average +passage 3 to 4 days. + +_Route_ 6.--_Via_ Weymouth, Cherbourg, Caen, Alençon, Le Mans, +Tours and Angoulême. _From Paris to Bordeaux._ + +_Route_ 7.--_Via_ Orleans, Blois, St. Pierre les Corps (for +Tours), Poitiers, Angoulême, and Libourne. + +_From Paris to Bagnères de Bigorre._ + +_Route_ 8.--_Via_ Orléans, Nexon, Perigueux, Les Eyzies, Libos, Agen, +Lectoure, Auch, Mirande, and Tarbes: the most direct route from +Paris to the Pyrénées. + +_From Paris to Toulouse._ + +_Route_ 9.--_Via_ Issoudun, Argenton, Limoges, Nexon, Brives, +Rocamadour, Assier, Figeac, Villefranche, and Tessonières: the quickest +and best route for the Pyrénées Orientales, and resorts of Vernet, +Amélie, &c. + +_From Bordeaux to Arcachon_. + +_Route_ 10.--_Viâ_ Gazinet, Facturé, Lamothe, and La Teste. + +_From Bordeaux to Bagnères de Bigorre_. + +_Route_ 11.--_Viâ_ Morcenx, Arjuzaux, Arengosse, Mont de Marsan, +Aire, Vic-Bigorre, Tarbes, Salles, Adour, and Montgaillard: a +longer route from Paris, by a few miles only, than Route 8. + + +_From Bordeaux to Biarritz_. + +_Route_ 12.--_Viâ_ Ychoux, Morcenx, Dax, Saint Geours, and +Bayonne. + +_From Bordeaux to Pau_. + +_Route 13_.--_Viâ_ Ychoux, Morcenx, Dax, Puyoo, Orthez, Lacq, +and Lescar. + +_From Pau to Eaux Bonnes and Eux Chaudes_. _Route_ 14.--By +carriage _viâ_ Gan, Louvie-Juzon, and Laruns. + +_Route_ 15.--By rail _viâ_ Gan and Laruns, [Footnote: This +railway was to be opened this year (1883).] and carriage from Laruns. + +_From Pau to Lourdes_. + +_Route_ 16.--_Viâ_ Coarraze-Nay, Montaut-Bétharram, and St. +Pé. + +_From Pau to Oloron_. + +_Route_ 17.--_Viâ_ Gan and Belair. + +_From Lourdes to Argelès_. + +_Route_ 18.--_Viâ_ Soum, Lugagnan, and Boo-Silhen. + +_From Lourdes to Pierrefitte_. + +_Route_ 19.--_Viâ_ Soum, Lugagnan, Boo-Silhen and Argelès. + +_From Lourdes to Cauterets, Luz, St. Sauveur, Barèges, and +Gavarnie_. + +_Route_ 20.--By Route 19 to Pierrefitte, thence by diligence or +private carriage to Cauterets. + +_Route_ 21.--By Route 19 to Pierrefitte, thence by diligence or +private carriage to Luz. + +_Route_ 22.--By Route 19 to Pierrefitte, thence by similar +conveyances to St. Sauveur. + +_Route_ 23.--By Route 21 to Luz and continuation to Barèges. + +_Route_ 24.--By Route 22 to St. Sauveur and continuation to +Gavarnie. + +_From Bagnères de Bigorre to Barèges_. + +_Route_ 25.--By carriage _viâ_ Ste. Marie, Gripp, Tramesaïgues, +and the Col de Tourmalet. This route is only open in midsummer. + +_From Bagnères de Bigorre to Bagnères de Luchon_. + +_Route_ 26.--By carriage _viâ_ Campan, Ste. Marie, Payole, +Col d'Aspin, Arreau, Bordères, Col de Peyresourde, and Garin. +Considered the finest drive in the Pyrenees. + +_Route_ 27.--By rail _viâ_ Montgaillard, Tarbes, Montrejeau, +Saléchan, Marignac, and Luchon. An exceedingly long round. + +_From Bagneres de Luchon to St. Bertrand de Comminges_. + +_Route_ 27.--By carriage _viâ_ Cier, Marignac, Saléchan, +Loures, and Labroquère. + +_Route_ 28.--By train _viâ_ Marignac and Saléchan to Loures, +and carriage thence to St. Bertrand. The rail continues from Loures to +Montrejeau. + +_From St. Bertrand to Montrejeau_. + +_Route_ 29.--By carriage to Loures station, thence by train to +Montrejeau. + +_Route_ 30.--By carriage direct to Montrejeau. + +_From Toulouse to Perpignan_. + +_Route_ 31.--Via Castelnaudary, Carcassone, Narbonne, La Nouvelle, +Salses, and Rivesaltes. + +_From Perpignan to Amélie-les-Bains_. + +_Route_ 32.--By diligence or carriage _viâ_ Pollestres, Le +Boulou, and Le Pont de Ceret. + +_From Perpignan to Molitg_. + +_Route_ 33.--By rail _viâ_ Millas, Ille, Bouleternère, and +Vinca, to Prades, thence by diligence or carriage _viâ_ Catlar to +Molitg. + +_From Perpignan to Vernet_. + +_Route_ 34--Route 33 to Prades and coach to Vernet. + +_Route_ 35--By rail _viâ_ Prades to Villefranche, and carriage +thence to Vernet. + + + + +APPENDIX C. + +SOME LOCAL PYRENEAN TERMS AND THEIR ENGLISH EQUIVALENTS. + + +_Artigue_, pasturage, prairie. +_Barranque_, a deep hollow or ravine. +_Borde, Bourdette_, farm-house, barn, cot. +_Caire, Quaire, Quaïrat_, a cone-shaped peak, rocky and bare. +_Canaou_, narrow ravine worn by the snow. +_Cap_, mountain tip. +_Clot_, a valley without exit. +_Colline_, a small valley, a dale. +_Cortal, Courtaou_, sheep-fold, sheep-pen. +_Couila, Couillade_, shepherd's cabin, hut, fertile vale. +_Estibe_, pasturage, feeding-ground. +_Estibère_, a well-pastured mountain. +_Fitte_, pointed summit. +_Montagne_, feeding-ground (on a mountainside). +_Neste_, mountain torrent. +_Orrhy, Orri_, shepherd's hut. +_Oule_, a bowl-shaped valley. +_Pech, Pouey, Puy_, a mountain of no great height, in the Western + Pyrenees; but also applied to loftier summits, in the Eastern range. +_Pène, Peña, Penne_, pointed rock. +_Peyre_, a large crag. +_Piche, Pisse_, a cascade waterfall. +_Pinède, Pinade_, pine forest, site of pine forest. +_Pique_, synonymous with _Fitte_, pointed summit, peak. +_Pla, Plan_, a valley with level meadows. +_Prade, Pradère_, similar to _Estibe_, +feeding-ground, meadow. +_Raillère_, steep decline, avalanche channel. +_Roque_, a mountain, steep and covered with crags. +_Sarrat, Serre, Serrère_, a sharp-toothed crest, backbone of + mountain. +_Sarre_, a small hill. +_Séoube, Scube_, wood, forest. +_Tausse, Truc, Truque, Tuc_, a steep and lofty peak with large + buttresses. + +The _Defiles_ and _Passes_ of the mountains for which the word +_Col_ is generally applied, bear many other names, of which the +following, with their special significations, are the chief:-- + +_Core_, a pass on a side range or small lateral chain. +_Fourgue, Fourquette, Hourque, Hourquette_, generally applied to + passes on the small side ranges. +_Pas_, a pass difficult of approach. +_Port_, a pass in the principal chain. +_Porteil, Portillon, Pourtet_, passes in the principal or side chains. + + + + +APPENDIX D. + +GENERAL INFORMATION, AND TABLES OF METRES, GRAMMES, DEGREES, &c. &c. + + +It would be difficult to speak with _too_ much weight on the +subject of _bread_, especially where invalids are concerned, and +that article in the Pyrenees is essentially _bad_--we might almost +say _unfit for food_. With the exception of Bagnères de +Bigorre--and then only when specially ordered--and _in the +season_, Bagnères de Luchon, the bread throughout the mountain +resorts is abominably sour. Travellers _do_ eat it, because they +have no other, but to invalids it is positively nauseous. In our +opinion it is the only real drawback to enjoying a Pyrenean trip! But +it would be foolish to bring it into such prominence when we have all +along recommended a stay amid these lovely scenes, unless we could +suggest a remedy, and the remedy is as simple as, with us, it proved +complete. There are several bakers in Pau selling bread as good as one +could wish for, and doubtless any of these would be glad to meet the +wishes of travellers; in our case we addressed ourselves to Mr. Otto +Kern, Vienna Bakery, Rue de la Préfecture, Pau, requesting him to +supply us with a certain quantity of bread daily, at whatever place we +might be. We had previously decided on our route on broad lines, so +that a postcard as a rule was sufficient to give notice of a change in +our address; while if a sudden alteration occurred in our plans, a +half-franc telegram told him the news, and _our bread_ never +failed to be at the _right_ place on the _right day_. The +bread sufficient for four people, carriage thereof, and a trifle for +commission (i.e. paper and trouble) cost on an average 2 frs. 50 cents +per diem, which was a little over 80 centimes each. Perhaps in time +hotel-keepers will resort to this method; in fact, we were assured that +it would be so; but in the meantime every traveller is recommended to +do so on his own account; though in all other respects he will find +most of the hotels throughout the mountains very well found. When once +in the Pyrenees, after Pau had been left behind, we found an average +price of 10 frs. per day--perhaps a shade less--was what our hotel +expenses amounted to; including--coffee and milk, bread and butter, +eggs _or_ kidneys _or_ chops for the first breakfast; table +d'hôte luncheon and table d'hôte dinner, with a good bedroom not higher +than 2nd floor. These prices must be understood as only those of a +spring or autumn tour--_out of the season_--and rather easier than +a traveller would pay at many of the hotels if he arrived without +having previously written and made terms. _We_ invariably wrote, +and at all the hotels marked thus || received every attention, good +rooms, good food, and _dry beds_. + +It is difficult to give a hard-and-fast amount per diem as to +expenditure, as it depends so much on the drives, excursions, &c.; as +above stated 10 frs. per day paid all hotel expenses (including _vin +ordinaire_), and we consider that in the spring, with several +excursions, and "a landau and four" for the principal drives--such as +Bigorre to Luchon, Lourdes to St. Sauveur, St. Sauveur to Gavarnie, &c. +&c.--25 frs. or £1 per day ought to cover the whole daily expense of +each person. In the summer of course 35 frs., or even 40 frs., would be +required for the same period. Horses and carriages are cheap in the +spring, but even then a little judicious bargaining is required, as it +is in nearly every transaction, in the Pyrenees. + +Jam, marmalade, bloater-paste, and small luxuries of that kind, not +excluding _whiskey_, are difficult to obtain, and it is well to +take them all from Pau or Biarritz, wherever the start is made. +Bagnères de Bigorre, chez M. Peltier, is fairly well supplied, but +other resorts know not the sound of their names! It is also worth +knowing that a system of "Parcels Post" is in operation, whereby any +moderate-sized parcel can be dispatched from any station for 85 cents, +and delivered at any place within reach of the railway or diligence; +but it must be understood at the same time that _bread_ will in +like manner be delivered _only_ where the railway or diligence +runs; if travellers therefore go to places where there is no +_official_ communication, they must depute some agent to receive +letters or parcels where the diligence last stops, and then forward +them by special messenger. This can be done of course, but it will +prove costly. + +The rate of postage is 2-1/2d. the 15 grammes (a shade over 1/2 oz.), +and 2-1/2d. for every additional 15 grammes. + +Money orders are issued at all the principal towns to which (see +Appendix A) a post-office belongs. + +Telegrams, 1/2 d = 5 cents, per word, the address being charged for the +same as the rest; but no telegram can cost less than 50 centimes. + +The rate to England is variable; usually 2-1/2 d. per word. + +Money is reckoned at 25 frs. to the £1 English, and banknotes or gold +will be accepted in nearly all hotels, and circular notes as well, at +the larger resorts. + + +TABLE OF LITRES AND PINTS. + +1/2 litre = 7/8 pint. +1 " = 1-3/4 pints. +2 litres = 3-1/2 pints. +4 " = 7 pints. +8 " = 7 quarts. + + +TABLES OF GRAMMES AND OUNCES. + + 29 grammes = 1 oz. + 57 " = 2 oz. + 86 " = 3 oz. + 114 " = 4 oz. = 1/4 lb. + 227 " = 8 oz. = 1/2 lb. + 454 " = 16 oz. = 1 lb. + 908 " = 32 oz. = 2 lbs. +1000 " = 35-1/5 oz. = 2 lbs. 3-1/5 oz. +1 kilogramme = 1000 grammes = 2 lbs. 3-1/5 oz. + + +TABLE OF CENTIMETRES AND INCHES. + +100 centimetres = 1 metre = 39-1/3 inches; 1 centimetre = 2/5 inch +as near as possible. + + 5 centimetres = 2 inches. + 10 " = 4 " + 15 " = 6 " + 20 " = 8 " + 25 " = 10 " + 30 " = 12 " = 1 foot. + 45 " = 18 " = 1-1/2 feet. + 50 " = 20 " = 1 ft. 8 in. + 60 " = 24 " = 2 feet. + 90 " = 36 " = 3 feet. +100 " = 39-1/3 " = 3 ft. 3-1/3 in. + + +TABLE OF METRES AND FEET, FOR DETERMINING THE +HEIGHT OF MOUNTAINS, &c. + +1 metre = 3 ft. 3-1/3 in. as near as possible, without using decimals; +but at this computation 2 inches are lost in every 25 metres, which +however have been duly supplied in the following table, but the +fractions omitted:-- + +Metres. Ft. in. Metres. Ft. in. Metres. Ft. in.. + 1 = 3 3 26 = 85 4 140 = 459 4 + 2 = 6 7 27 = 88 7 150 = 492 2 + 3 = 9 10 28 = 91 10 160 = 524 11 + 4 = 13 1 29 = 95 2 170 = 557 9 + 5 = 16 5 30 = 98 8 175 = 574 3 + 6 = 19 8 35 = 114 10 180 = 590 7 + 7 = 22 11 40 = 131 2 190 = 623 4 + 8 = 26 3 45 = 147 7 200 = 656 3 + 9 = 29 6 50 = 164 1 300 = 984 4 + 10 = 32 9 55 = 180 5 400 = 1,312 6 + 11 = 36 1 60 = 196 10 500 = 1,640 7 + 12 = 39 4 65 = 213 3 600 = 1,968 8 + 13 = 42 7 70 = 229 7 700 = 2,296 9 + 14 = 45 11 75 = 246 1 800 = 2,624 10 + 15 = 49 2 80 = 262 6 900 = 2,953 0 + 16 = 52 5 85 = 278 10 1,000 = 3,281 1 + 17 = 55 9 90 = 295 3 2,000 = 6,562 2 + 18 = 59 0 95 = 311 8 3,000 = 9,843 3 + 19 = 62 3 1OO = 328 2 3,100 = 10,171 5 + 20 = 65 7 105 = 344 6 3,200 = 10,499 6 + 21 = 68 10 110 = 360 11 3,300 = 10,827 7 + 22 = 72 1 115 = 377 4 3,400 = 11,155 8 + 23 = 75 5 120 = 393 8 3,500 = 11,483 9 + 24 = 78 8 125 = 410 2 4,000 = 13,124 4 + 25 = 82 0 130 = 426 6 + + +TABLE OF KILOMETRES AND MILES. + +1 kilometre = 1,000 metres = 1,093 yards = 5/8 mile, as nearly as +possible, without employing decimals; but at this computation the +kilometre gains 11 yards, 40 kilometres gain 1/4 mile, and 160 +kilometres gain 1 mile. This gain has been deducted in the following +table, and all fractions less than 1/4 omitted:-- + +Kilos. Miles. Kilos. Miles. + + 1 = 5/8 19 = 11-3/4 + 2 = 1-1/4 20 = 12-1/4 + 3 = 2 30 = 18-1/2 + 4 = 2-1/2 40 = 24-3/4 + 5 = 3 50 = 31 + 6 = 3-3/4 60 = 37 + 7 = 4-1/4 70 = 43-1/4 + 8 = 5 80 = 55-3/4 + 9 = 5-1/2 100 = 62 + 10 = 6-1/4 120 = 74-1/4 + 11 = 7 160 = 99 + 12 = 7-1/2 200 = 123-3/4 + 13 = 8 300 = 185-1/2 + 14 = 8-3/4 320 = 198 + 15 = 9-1/4 400 = 247-1/2 + 16 = 10 500 = 309-1/4 + 17 = 10-1/2 1,000 = 618-3/4 + 18 = 11-1/4 + + +COMPARISON TABLE OF THE CENTIGRADE AND FAHRENHEIT THERMOMETERS. + +1° Centigrade = 1-4/5 Fahr.; 5° Cent. = 9° Fahr. It must be understood +that, as the freezing-point of Centigrade is Zero and of Fahrenheit +32°, these 32° must be taken into account in all calculations above +freezing-point: thus +5° Cent. are equivalent to a temperature of 41° +Fahr. + + Cent. Fahr. Cent. Fahr. + +Below -15 = +3 17 = 63 +Zero. -10 = +12 18 = 64 + -5 = +21 19 = 65 + 0 = 32 Freezing-point. 20 = 67 + 1 = 34 25 = 76 + 2 = 36 30 = 85 + 3 = 37 35 = 94 + 4 = 39 35-1/2 = 95 Blood heat. + 5 = 41 40 = 103 + 6 = 43 45 = 112 + 7 = 45 50 = 121 + 8 = 47 55 = 130 + 9 = 48 60 = 139 + 10 = 50 65 = 148 + 11 = 52 70 = 156 + 12 = 54 75 = 165 + 13 = 55 80 = 174 + 13-1/2 = 56 Temperate. 85 = 183 + 14 = 57 90 = 192 + 15 = 59 95 = 201 + 16 = 61 100 = 210 Boiling-point. + + + + + +INDEX. + + +A. + +Abbé's song, the, +A dirty avalanche, +A "double stroke" (St. Sauveur), +Adour, basin of, +Allée d'Etigny (Luchon), + de Barcugna, + des Bains, + Verte (Barèges), +Allées de Cambasque, +Amélie-les-Bains, + excursions from, + general information, + hotels at, &c., +Amoy, Valley of Ten Thousand Rocks, +Ancient church of the Templars (Luz), +_Anemone vernalis_, + scarlet, + wood, +A new "diet of worms," +An excited dog-fancier, +An extraordinary detachment, +Anglêt, +Appendix A, + B, + C, + D, +Aran, valley of, +Arboust, valley of, +Arcachon, +Arcachon, excursions from, + general information, + hotels at, +Argelès, + drive round valley of, + excursions from, + hotels at, + valley of, +Argelès-sur-Mer, +Arles-sur-Tech, +Arlos, +Arreau, + hotels at and excursions from, +Arrens, + excursions from, + hotels at, +Arrieuzé (river), +Arroudet, cascade of, +Artigues-Tellin, +Arudy, +Ascent of the Col de Riou, +Ascent of the Pic de Bergons, +Aspe, valley of, +Aspin, + col of, +Asphodel, +Assat, +Asté, +Atalaya, cape, +Auberge du Lys (Luchon), +Auch, road of, +Aure, valley of, +Avajan, +Avalanche, a dirty, +Avenue de Salut, +Ax, road of, + +B. + +Bagnères de Bigorre to Bagnères de Luchon +Bagnères de Luchon to Barèges +Bagnères de Bigorre +Bagnères de Bigorre, bathing establishment of +Bagnères de Bigorre, excursions from +Bagnères de Bigorre, hotels of +Bagnères de Bigorre, springs of +Bagnères de Luchon to Montrejeau +Bagnères de Luchon to St. Bertrand de Comminges +Bagnères de Luchon +Bagnères de Luchon, baths of +Bagnères de Luchon, casino of +Bagnères de Luchon, excursions from +Bagnères de Luchon, general information +Bagnères de Luchon, hotels at +Ballooning +Barbe de Bouch +Barèges + " bathing establishment of + " excursions from + " hotels of +Barousse, valley of +Basin of Adour + " Echez +Baths of Amélie + " Barèges + " Capvern + " César + " Grand Pré + " Hontalade + " Le Pré + " Luchon + " Luz + " Marie Thérèse + " Mauhourat + " Molitg + " OEufs + " Panticosa + " Pauze Nouveaux + " " Vieux + " Petit St. Sauveur + " Preste + " Raillère + " Ste. Marie (near Luchon) + " St. Sauveur + " Salut + " Santé + " Siradan + " Vernet +Baudéan +Bayonne + " general information + " hotels at +Beaucens, castle of +Bédat +Bee orchids +Béhobie +Bélesten +Bernadette Soubirons +Bétharram + " bridge near +Betpouey (Barèges) +Biarritz + " amusements of + " Cape Atalaya at + " general information + " hotels at + " Port Vieux at +Bidart +Bidassoa +Bielle +Bilhères +Billères (Pau) +Billères plains of, + " woods of, +Bious-Artigues, +Bishop's arrival, the, +Bizanos, +Black Forest (Bosost), +Black Prince, +Boo-Silhen, +Bordeaux to Arcachon, +Bordeaux to Bagnères de Bigorre, +Bordeaux to Biarritz, + " to Pau, +Bordeaux, + " hotels at, + " steamers to, + " trains to, +Bordères, +Bosost, + " chapel of St. Antoine at, + " church of, + " Fonda (inn) d'España at, +Box plants, +Brada (mountain), +Bread, + " arrival of, +Brêche d'Allanz, + " Fausse, + " de Roland, +Broussette, valley of, +Bué, +Bugaret (mountain), + " torrent of, +Burbe, valley of, +Burnished toes, +Butte du Trésor, +Buvette de Minvieille, + +C. + +Cabaliros, the, +Cabanes du Lys, +Cagots, +Cambo, + " hotels at, +Campan, +Canine absurdity, + " feat, a, +Canton, odours of, +Capercailzie, +Capvern, + " baths of, + " hotels at, +Carmelites, church of the (Bigorre), +Carnival time (Pau), +Cascade d'Arroudet, + " de Cérizey, + " du Coeur, + " de Discoo, + " des Eaux Bonnes, + " d'Enfer, + " du Groshêtre, + " de Laressec, + " de Lassariou, + " du Lutour, + " du Marboré, + " de Montauban, + " de Pisse-Arros, + " de Rioumaou, + " du Serpent, + " de Sidonie, + " du Valentin, +Casino (Luchon), + " (Pau), + " du Portillon (Luchon), + " de Roulette (Luchon), +Castel-Géloos, +Castel-Mouly, +Castel-Vieilh (or Castelvieil) +Castets, +Catarabe, +Cat-fight, +Cauterets, + " baths of, + " excursions from, + " Fruitière of, + " Gorge of, + " hotels of, +Cazaril, +Cazaux, +Céciré (Bosost), + " (Superbagnères), +Cemetery, Luz, + " Pau, +Cercle des Etrangers (Barèges), +Cérizey, cascade of, +Chambre d'Amour (inn), +Chamois, +Chandelles du Marboré, +Chaos, the, +Chapelle de Piétad, + " de St. Antoine, + " de St. Exupère, + " de St. Roch, + " de Solferino, +Château de Beaucens, + " de Despourrins, + " de Géloz, + " de Miramont, + " de Ste. Marie, +Chester, resemblance to, +Cheval, Madame, +Chinaougue, +Church of Montauban, + " Notre Dame, Arreau, + " Notre Dame, Lourdes, + " Piétat, + " St. Jacques, Pau, + " St. Martin, Pau, + " St. Savin, Argelès, + " St. Vincent, Bigorre, + " Sazos, + " Soulom, +Chute de Lapaca, + " la Pique, +Cier de Luchon, +Cierp, +Cirque de Gavarnie, + " Troumouse, +Clérical sensation, +Coarraze, +Coffre d'Ossau, +Col d'Arbéousse, + " d'Aspin, + " d'Aubiste, + " de Bué + " d'Estom Soubiran, + " de Gourzy, + " de Marie Blanque, + " de Peyresourde, + " de Portillon, + " de Riou, + " de Tortes, + " de Tourmalet, +Columbine (_aquilegia_), +Confirmation at Cauterets, +Coteaux, the (Pau), +Cottin, Madame, +Coumélie (mountain), +Couradilles, the, +Coustous, the, + " music on the, +Cowslips, +Crabé (bridge), +Crabioules, glacier of, +Crêre d'Ordincède, +"Crocodile of St. Bertrand," the, +Croix de Manse, + " de Mouguère, +"Cry of the Lourdes Shopkeepers," the, +Cucurlon rock (Biarritz), +Cylindre (du Marboré), + +D. + +Dax, + " baths of, + " hotels at, +Daffodils, +Dangerous footing, +Dear travelling, +Dog-fancier, an excited, +Dragon's-mouth Rock, + +E. + +Eaux Bonnes, 178; + " bathing establishment of, + " cascade of, + " excursions from, +Eaux Bonnes, hotels at, +Eaux Chaudes, + baths at, + excursions from, + grotto of, + hotels at, +Echez, basin of, +Echo, wonderful, +English Church (Bigorre), +Entécade, peak, +Espelette, +Esplanade des Oeufs, +Esquiez, +Esterre, +"Exhortation to the First Snow," + +F. + +Fashion on a donkey, +Fausse Brèche (Gavarnie), +Feather moss, +Females, importunate, +Fête de Payole, +Flight of lizards, +Fontaine de Marnières (Pau) +Fos, +French sportsmen (Pau), +Fuenterabia (_Fr_. Fontarabie), + +G. + +Gabas, +Gabrielle d'Estrelle, +Gan, +Garin, +Garonne, river, + valley of, +Gavarnie, + Cirque of, + hotels of, + Port de, +Gave d'Azun, +Gave de Barèges, +Gave de Bastan, + Cauterets, + Gavarnie, + Héas, + Lutour, + Marcadau, + d'Ossau, + de Pau, +Gazost-les-Bains, +Gèdre, + excursions from, + grotto of, +Géloos, Castel +Gélos, +General information, Appendix D, +Gentians, +Gerde, +Géruzet's marble works, +Ges, +Glacier de Crabioules, +Gorge de Bacheviron, + Cauterets, + du Hourat, +Gouffre d'Enfer, +Granges de Gouron, +Grange de la Reine Hortense, +Gripp, +Grocer's opinion, the (Cauterets), +Grotto of Eaux Chaudes, + Gèdre, + Lourdes, + the Néez, +Grust (St. Sauveur), +Guétary, +"Guide's Auction," the, + +H. + +Héas, + inn, &c., + valley of, +Hendaye, +Hepaticas, +Hermitage of St. Peter (St. Sauveur), +Herrère, stream, +Hospice Civil (Bigorre) + " de France (Luchon) + " de Ste. Eugénie (Barèges) +Hôtel d'Angleterre, Argelès + " Baudot, Eaux Chaudes + " Beau Séjour (Bigorre) + " Canton, Luchon + " de Comminges + " d'España, Bosost + " de France, Argelès + " " Arreau + " " Eaux Bonnes + " " St. Sauveur + " du Parc, Cauterets + " de Paris, Biarritz + " de la Poste, Payole + " " Pierrefitte + " des Pyrénées, Lourdes + " " Louvie-Juzon + " de l'Univers, Luz + " des Voyageurs, Gavarnie +Houn Blanquo +Hourat, Gorge de +Hungry guardian, a +Hyacinths + +I. + +"Idyllic Colbert" (Pau) +Importunate females +Irun +Itsatsou +Izeste + +J. + +Jaca, a +"Jackdaw's Causerie" +Jardin à l'Anglaise (St. Sauveur) + " Darralde + " des Quinconces +"Jay of Barèges," the +"Jeannette's Lamb," +Jonquils +Jurançon + +L. + +Labassère, a + waters of (see Bagneres de Bigorre) +La Brune (Cauterets) +La Casque du Marboré +Lac Bleu + " d'Estibaoute + " d'Estom + " d'Estom Soubiran + " de Gaube + " Vert +"Lady's Farewell to her Asinine Steed," the +Lagas, fountain of +Lamothe +Lapaca, Chute de +Laressec, cascade of, +Laruns + church of + inns at +Lassariou, cascade of +La Tour du Marboré +Lès +Lescar +"Lesson of the Mountains," the +Lime-works (Eaux Bonnes) +_Linaria_ +Liverpool to Bordeaux +Lizards, flight of +Llanberis Pass, resemblance to +London to Bordeaux +London to Paris +Louderville +Lourdes to Argelès + " Bareges + " Cauterets + " Gavarnie + " Luz +Lourdes to Pierrefitte, + St. Sauveur, +Lourdes, + castle of, + chapel of, + church of, + grotto of, + hotels at, + panorama of, +Loures, + inns of, +Louron, valley of, +Louvie-la-Haute, +Louvie-Juzon, +Louvie-Soubiron, +Luchon (see Bagnères de Luchon) +Lunch on the Bergons, +Lutour, cascade of, + valley of, +Luz, + hotels at, + baths of, +Lys, valley of, + +M. + +Marble Works, Géruzet's, +Marboré, the, + Cascade du, + Chandelles du, + Epaule du, + La Casque du, + La Tour du, +"March of the Men of Garlic," the, +Marignac, +Marion, Lake, +Marnières, Fontaine de, +Maucapéra, +Mauléon-Barousse, + Licharre, +Médiabat, bridge of, +Menu (Cauterets), + (Payole), +Mill conduits, +Milord, a, +Minvieille, Buvette de, +Molitg, + baths of, &c., + excursions from, + hotels at, +Monné, Bigorre, + Cauterets, + Rouge, +Montagne de Brada, +Mont Arrouye, +Montaigu, Pic de (see Pic) +Montauban, + church of, + cascade of, +Mont Bédat, + Ferrat, +Montgaillard, +Montrejeau, + buffet of, +Mont Ségu, Bosost, +Morcenx, +Mouguère (cross of), +Mountain rhododendrons, + violets, +Mouriscot, Lake, +Museum (Luchon), + (Luz), + +N. + +Napoleon's pillar (St. Sauveur), +Narcissus, +Nature's voice, +Nay, +Néez, grotto of the, + stream, + valley of, +Négresse (station), +Nestalas, +Neste (river), +Nethou, Pic de, +New "diet of worms," a, +Nivelle (river), +Noah's ark landscape, a, + +O. + +"Old world and the new," the (Pau), +Oloron, + general information, + hotels at, + roads to, +Oo, +Open-air concert, +Ordincède, Crète d', +Orphanage of Notre Dame du Rocher (Luchon), +Orphanage, church of, +Orphéon, the, +Orthez, +Osmunda regalis (fern), +Ossau, Gave d', + Val d', +Ourous, +"Oxen's Appeal," the, +Oxslips, + +P. + +Paillole (see Payole) +Pagoda Villa, the (Cauterets), +Palais de Justice, Pau, +Palomières de Gerde, +Panorama of Lourdes, +Panticosa, + hotels at, +Parc Beaumont, Pau, + du Château, Pau, +Paris to Bagnères de Bigorre, +Paris to Bordeaux, +Paris to Toulouse, +Pasages, +Pas de l'Echelle, +Pas de l'Escalette, +Pas de Roland, +Pau to Eaux Bonnes and Chaudes, +Pau to Lourdes, +Pau to Oloron, +Pau, I, + amusements at, + castle of, + drives, &c., at, + general information, + history of, + hotels of, +Payole, + en fête, 136 +Peasants and their ways, +Peculiar teams, +Peguère, the, +Peña Blanca, +Pêne de l'Heris, +Pêne de Montarqué, +Perpignan, +Perpignan to Amélie, +Perpignan to Molitg, +Perpignan to Vernet, +Perpignan, + chief excursions from, + hotels at, +Peyrehorade, +Peyresourde, Col de, +Pic d'Antenac, +Pic d'Arbizon, +Pic d'Ardiden, +Pic d'Arrens, +Pic d'Aspé, +Pic d'Astazou, +Pic d'Aubiste, +Pic d'Ayré, +Pic de Bergons, +Pic de Boum, +Pic de Bugaret, +Pic de Campbieil, +Pic de Clarabide, +Pic de Crabioules, +Pic de Gabiétou, +Pic de Gabizos, +Pic de Gar, +Pic de Gaube, +Pic de Ger, +Pic de Gourzy, +Pic de Labassa, +Pic du Lac Grand, +Pic de Laruns + de Lienz + de Litouèse + de Maladetta + de Maucapéra + du Midi d'Arrens (see Pic + d'Arrens) + du Midi de Bigorre + du Midi d'Ossau + du Milieu + de la Mine + de Montaigu (near Bigorre) + de Montaigu (near Saint + Sauveur) + de Néouville + de Néré + de Néthou + Rouge de Pailla + de Pez + de la Pique + de Posets + Poujastou + Sacroux + de Sarradets + de Sauvegarde + de Soulom + de Villelongue + de Viscos +Picnicking (Pau) +Pie de Mars +Pierrefitte; + hotels at, + road to +Piétat +Pilgrims +Piméné, the +Pique, valley of +Pitton de Tournefort +Place Royale, Pau + Ste. Eugénie, Biarritz + "Plaint of the Weather-beaten Pine," +Plateau of the Bious-Artigues +Poc (guide) +_Polygala amara_ +_Polygala rosea_ +Pont d'Arrougé + de Benquès + de Crabé + de Desdouroucat + d'Enfer (near Eaux Chaudes) + d'Enfer (near Luz) + d'Espagne + de la Hiladère + de Lestelle + de Nadie + Napoléon + de Pescadère + de Ravi + de Sia + de Villelongue +"Poor Pillicoddy," +Port de Gavarnie + de Peyresourde (see Col de) + de la Picade + de Venasque +Posets, the Peak +Post-office (Luz) +_Potentilla_ +Pragnères +Preste-les-Bains; + baths and hotels of, +_Primula farinosa_ +Promenade Horizontale (Barèges) + de l'Impératrice +Puyoo +Pyramide de Peyrelance +Pyrenean dogs + prices of + treatment of + local terms translated, + some, + songs + +Q. + +Quairat, Pic +Quatre Moulins de Sia + +R. + +Railway information and skeleton routes to the Pyrenees, +_Ramondia pyrenaïca_ +Ravin d'Araillé +Rébénac +Red tape +"Riou," +Rioumaou, cascade of +"Roads up again," +Rocks at Biarritz +Rue d'Enfer (Luchon) + " de la Fontaine (Pau) + +S. + +Saint Antoine, chapel of Aventin + " Béat + " Bernard, statue of + " Bertrand de Comminges to Montrejeau + " Bertrand de Comminges, + " " " " cathedral of + " " " " cloisters of + " " " " history of +St. Christau, + " " hotels at + " Etienne + Jacques Church (Pau) + " Jean de Luz + " " dogs of + " " general information + " Laurent de la Salanque + " Mamet + " " church of + " Martin's Church (Pau) + " Pé + " Pée + " Peter's statue (Lourdes) + " Pierre +St. Sauveur + " " baths of + " " excursions from + " " hotels at + " Savin + " Vincent's Church (Bigorre) +Ste. Marie (near Bigorre) + " (near Oloron) + " (near St. Laurent) + " (near Saléchan) + " baths of +Sakurazawa, memories of +Salies +Saléchan +Salluz (Argelès) +Salut, avenue of +San Sebastian + " chief features of, + " hotels at +Sarsaparilla +Sassis (St. Sauveur) +Sazos (St. Sauveur) +_Scabii_ +Sère (Luz) +Serres +Sévignac +Sia + " bridge of + " Quatre Moulins de +Sidonie, cascade of +Silver beeches +Siradan + " valley of +Skeleton routes and railway information +Sketching advice + " with a donkey-cart +Snow +Some Pyrenean local terms translated +Songs, Pyrenean +Soulom +Soulom, Pic de +Soum de Secugnac +Sour grapes (Pau) +Sourde, valley of +Spanish mules and peasants +Sport, French +"Spring's Bitters and Sweets" +Sugar-loaf Mountain (Gavarnie) +Superbagnères + view from +Swine-feeding + +T. + +Tables of centigrade and Fahrenheit thermometers + of centimetres and inches + of grammes and ounces + of kilometres and miles + of litres and pints + of metres and feet +Taillon, the +Tapêre (stream) +Tarbes + road +Templars' church at Luz +"The Abbé's Song" +"The Argelès Shepherd's Reply" +The Bishop's arrival +The Chaos +"The Crocodile of St. Bertrand" +The Couradilles +"The Guide's Auction" +"The Jackdaw's Causerie" +"The Jay of Barèges" +"The Lady's Farewell to her Asinine Steed" +"The Lesson of the Mountains" +"The March of the Men of Garlic" +"The Organ's Tale" +"The Oxen's Appeal" +"The Plaint of the Weather-beaten Pine" +"The Three Cormorants" +The "witch of the hills" +"Three Cormorants," the +Torrent of Bugaret +Toulouse to Perpignan + road to +Tour des Lacs (Biarritz) +Tour de la Monnaie (Pau) +Tourmalet, Col de +Trained vines +Tramesaïgues +Travellers' troubles +Troumouse, Cirque of +Trous d'Enfer +Tuc de Maupas + +U. + +Urrugne +Ustaritz + +V. + +Valcabrère +Val d'Ossau +Valentin (river) +Vallée d'Aran + d'Arboust + d'Argelès + d'Aspe + d'Aure + de Barèges + de Barousse + de Broussette + de Campan + de Garonne + de Héas + de l'Hospice + de Lesponne + de Lienz + de Louron + de Luchon + history of +Vallée du Lutour + de Luz + du Lys + de Marcadau + du Néez + de la Pique + de Séoube + de Serris + de Siradan + de Sourde (or Soude) +Valley of the Ten Thousand + Rocks (Amoy) +Venasque + Port de +Vernet-les-Bains + baths of + excursions from + hotels at +Via Crucis (Bétharram) +Viella (near Barèges) + (near St. Béat) +Vieuzac +Vignemale, Pic de +Villelongue + Pic de +Villenave +Vines trained by the roadside +Violets + +W. + +Washerwomen and their gamps +Wonderful echo +Wood anemones + +Y. + +Yankee tale, a + +Z. + +Zinc mines + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TWIXT FRANCE AND SPAIN*** + + +******* This file should be named 10403-8.txt or 10403-8.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/1/0/4/0/10403 + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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For +example an eBook of filename 10234 would be found at: + +https://www.gutenberg.org/1/0/2/3/10234 + +or filename 24689 would be found at: +https://www.gutenberg.org/2/4/6/8/24689 + +An alternative method of locating eBooks: +https://www.gutenberg.org/GUTINDEX.ALL + +*** END: FULL LICENSE *** diff --git a/old/10403-8.zip b/old/10403-8.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..238092e --- /dev/null +++ b/old/10403-8.zip diff --git a/old/10403.txt b/old/10403.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c004deb --- /dev/null +++ b/old/10403.txt @@ -0,0 +1,10009 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Twixt France and Spain, by E. Ernest Bilbrough + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Twixt France and Spain + +Author: E. Ernest Bilbrough + +Release Date: December 8, 2003 [eBook #10403] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: US-ASCII + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TWIXT FRANCE AND SPAIN*** + + +E-text prepared by Carlo Traverso, Lois Gaudard, and Project Gutenberg +Distributed Proofreaders. This file was produced from images generously +made available by the Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at +http://gallica.bnf.fr. + + + +'TWIXT FRANCE AND SPAIN; + +Or, A Spring in the Pyrenees + +BY + +E. ERNEST BILBROUGH. + + + + + + + +[Illustration: MAP OF THE PYRENEES +(To accompany "TWIXT FRANCE & SPAIN") +With the Principal Peaks, Rivers & Roads.] + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +CHAPTER I. + +PAU. + +Trains and steamers--Bordeaux and its hotels--Lamothe +--Morcenx--Dax--Puyoo--Orthez--First impressions of Pau--The hotels and +pensions--Amusements--Pension Colbert--Making up parties for the +Pyrenees--The Place Royale and the view--The castle of Pau and its +approaches--Origin of name--Historical notes--The towers--Visiting +hours--The tapestries--The wonderful bedstead--The delusive +tortoiseshell cradle--The "Tour de la Monnaie"--The park--The Billeres +plains--Tennis and golf--The Route de Billeres and the Billeres +woods--French _sportsmen_--Hunting--Racing--Lescar and its old +cathedral--Fontaine de Marnieres--The bands--The Parc Beaumont +--Ballooning--The Casino--Polo--The cemetery--The churches of +St. Martin and St. Jacques--The "old world and the new"--Rides and +drives--to Betharram--The start--Peasants and their ways--Vines +trained by the roadside--Sour grapes--The "March of the Men of Garlic" +--Coarraze--Henry IV.'s Castle--Betharram--The ivied bridge--The +inn--The "Via Crucis"--Assat and Gelos--The Coteaux--Perpignaa +--Sketching with a donkey-cart--Over the Coteaux to Gan--The +drive to Pietat--Picnicking and rejected attentions--The +church--Feather moss--Bizanos--Carnival time--"Poor Pillicoddy" +--"Idyllic Colbert." + + +CHAPTER II. + +BAGNERES DE BIGORRE. + +Backward spring--Hotel Beau Sejour--Effect of the war of '70 on the +English colony--The "Coustous"--The Church of St. Vincent--Geruzet's +marble works--Donkeys--Up the Monne--Bains de Sante--Bains de Grand +Pre--Salut Avenue and baths--"Ai-ue, Ai-ue"--Luncheon--Daffodils--The +summit and the view--The "Castel-Mouly"--The Tapere--Mde. Cottin--Mont +Bedat--Gentians--The Croix de Manse--"The Lady's Farewell to her +Asinine Steed"--Market-day--The old iron and shoe dealers--Sunday--A +cat fight--The English Church--To the Col d'Aspin--"The Abbe's +Song"--Baudean--Campan, its people and church--Wayside chapels--Ste. +Marie--The route to Gripp, &c.--Payole--The pine forest--The Col +d'Aspin--The view from the Monne Rouge--"The Plaint of the Weather-beaten +Pine"--The Menu at Payole--Hurrah for the milk!--Departures--Divine +music--Aste--Gabrielle d'Estrelle--The ivied ruins--The church-- +Pitton de Tournefort--Gerde--The pigeon traps--The cattle market +--The Jacobin tower--Theatre--Grand Etablissement des Thermes +--Hospice Civil--Eglise des Carmes--Mount Olivet--Madame Cheval, +her cakes and tea--Bigorre in tears + + +CHAPTER III. + +LOURDES. + +The journey to Tarbes--The Buffet and the Nigger--Lourdes station in +the wet--Importunate "Cochers"--Hotel des Pyrenees--"Red tape" and +Porters--Lourdes in sunshine--Sightseeing--The "Rue de la Grotte"-- +"The Cry of the Lourdes Shopkeepers"--Candle-sellers--The +Grotto--Abject reverence--The Church--Saint Bernard--Interior of +church--The panorama--Admirable effect--Rue du Fort--The castle--The +view from the Tower--Pie de Mars, or Ringed Ousels + + +CHAPTER IV. + +ARGELES. + +Road _v_. rail--Scenes, sublime and ridiculous--Hotel +d'Angleterre--Questions and "The Argeles Shepherd's Reply"--A forbidden +path--The ride to Ges, Serres, Salluz, and Ourous--Argeles +church--Route Thermale--Ges--The tree in the path--"A regular +fix"--Serres--"It's a stupid foal that doesn't know its own mother" +--A frothing stream--A fine view--Pigs in clover--Salluz +--Ourous--Contented villagers--The high road--The bridge on the +Pierrefitte road--Advice to sketchers--"Spring's Bitters and +Sweets"--The "witch of the hills"--Large green lizards--"Jeannette's +Lamb"--Round the Argeles valley--Chateau de Beaucens--Villelongue-- +Soulom--The old church--Hotel de la Poste, Pierrefitte--St. Savin--The +verger and the ancient church--Cagots--"The Organ's Tale"--St. Savin's +tomb--The Chateau de Miramont--Jugged Izard--Market-day--Sour bread and +the remedy--Arrival of the first parcel. + + +CHAPTER V. + +CAUTERETS. + +Hotel de la Poste, Pierrefitte--The Gorge--Its majestic beauty--The +resemblance to the Llanberis Pass--Mrs. Blunt becomes poetical--Zinc +mines--Le Pont de Mediabat--Entering the town--The Rue Richelieu and +Hotel du Parc--Winter's seal upon them still--Thermes des +Oeufs--Thermes de Cesar--The Casino and Esplanade des Oeufs--A good +dinner and the menu--The start for the Col de Riou--The Grange de la +Reine Hortense--The pines--Miss Blunt's "Exhortation to the First +Snow"--The dogs and their gambols--Defeated, but not discouraged--To +the Cerizey Cascade--The baths of La Raillere, Petit St. Sauveur, and +Le Pre--Cascade de Lutour--The Marcadau Gorge--Scenery--Pic de +Gaube--At the Cerizey Cascade--The Pont d'Espagne and Lac de +Gaube--Pont de Benques--Lutour valley--Various excursions up same--The +"Parc"--Allees de Cambasque--The Peguere--The "Pagoda" villa-- +Promenade du Mamelon Vert--The road's up again--Blows and blasts--The +bishop's arrival--Enthusiasm, pomposity, and benedictions--The pilgrims +at large--They start on an excursion--The market and Hotel de +Ville--The grocer's opinion--Pyrenean dogs and their treatment--The +dog-fancier--Smiles and temper--Bargaining displaced--No dog after all! + + +CHAPTER VI. + +LUZ AND BAREGES. + +Rain at starting--A blighted view, yet lovely still--Pont +d'Enfer--Nature's voice--Sere and Esquiez--Luz--Its situation and +status--An old house--The ancient church of the Templars--La Chapelle +de St. Roch--Pyrenean museum--Hotel de l'Univers--Chateau de Ste. +Marie--"The Jackdaw's Causerie"--A new "diet of worms"--The new +bathing establishment--To Bareges--Pic d'Ayre--Esterre--Viella +--Betpouey--Mill conduits--Cercle des Etrangers--Opinion of the +town--Grand Etablissement--Promenade Horizontale--Hospice de Ste. +Eugenie--"The Jay of Bareges"--Wood anemones--Hepaticas--Valley +of Lienz--Pic de Lienz--Pic d'Ayre's summit--Pic de Neouville--Mountain +rhododendrons--_Anemone vernalis_ + + +CHAPTER VII. + +ST. SAUVEUR. + +Pont de Pescadere--Sassis--Gave de Gavarnie--St. Sauveur--Hotel de +France--Pont Napoleon--Napoleon's pillar--Bee orchids--Chapel of +Solferino--The view from thence--Ne'er a hermit but for gold--Luz +cemetery--Luz post-office--Short cuts--Pharmacie Claverie--Jardin a +l'Anglaise--Ascent of Pic de Bergons--Villenave--The shepherds' +huts--Lunch--Snow, its use and abuse--On foot--"Excelsior"--Dangerous +footing--The last crest but one--The view--Gavarnie and Argeles in +sight--A lazy guide--A "fast" bit--Mountain flowers--Mr. Sydney to the +fore--A short walk and a good view--To Sazos and Grust--The bathing +establishments--Sazos: the old church--The belfry--Chiming +extraordinary--Various promenades--Gems of hill and vale + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +GAVARNIE. + +A "falling glass"--The wonderful echo--Cascade Lassariou--Sia and its +bridge--Pont de Desdouroucat--"Changing scenes"--Bugaret torrent--The +Pimene--Bue--Gedre--Breche de Roland in the distance--The +"Grotto"--Scenery at fivepence per head--Daffodils--Lofty +summits--Cascade d'Arroudet--Chaos--Valley of the "Ten Thousand Rocks," +Amoy--A dirty avalanche--The Sugar-loaf--Travellers' troubles +--Importunate females--Hotel des Voyageurs--Poc--Guide or no +guide--Chute de Lapaca--The guardian summits of the Cirque--Cascade du +Marbore--Chandelles du Marbore--The Cirque--Its marvellous +beauty--Reluctantly returning--"The Guide's Auction"--"Two women +enough for a market, and three for a fair"--A Yankee tale--Sketching +and flowers--Tempers and appetites + + +CHAPTER IX. + +FROM LUZ AND ST. SAUVEUR TO BAGNERES DE LUCHON. + +A smiling valley--Lourdes again--The chapel in the crypt--St. Peter's +statue--Burnished toes--Solemn quietude--Preparing for the great +pilgrimage--"Ornamented" crosses--Mr. Sydney's new vocation, "Guide, +Philosopher, and Friend"--Bigorre again--An open-air concert +--Harmonious echoes--Paying through the nose--The fete at +Payole--Sport a la francaise--Costumes--The view from the Col +d'Aspin--Arreau--Quaint houses--La Chapelle de St. Exupere--A whining +"gardien"--Eglise de Notre Dame--The river Neste--Hotel de +France--Borderes--Avajan--Louderville--Oxslips and cowslips--Wild +narcissus--Col de Peyresourde--The view--Garin--Cazaux--St. +Aventin--Lovely avenues--Our destination + + +CHAPTER X. + +BAGNERES DE LUCHON. + +The bathing establishment and its surroundings--The lovely +_Allees_--Montauban church and cascade--The Villa Russe and its +genial host--Various excursions--Orphanage of Notre Dame de +Rocher--The Vallee du Lys--The Rue d'Enfer and cascades--A lively +scene--The view from Superbagneres--Loading wood--"The Oxen's +Appeal"--Visit to the Orphanage--A "holy" relic--To Bosost--St. +Mamet--"A stumbling-block"--Cascade of Sidonie--Horse tricks and +jockey dodges--Lizards in flight--Fashion on a donkey--On the Portillon +'twixt France and Spain--The valley of Aran--Snug Bosost--A curious +inn--Children with artistic bent--A bright pathway--Missing much, but +thankful still + + +CHAPTER XI. + +ST. BERTRAND DE COMMINGES. + +Keeping to old friends--Valley history--Entering the Garonne +valley--The picturesque St. Beat--St. Beat to Viella--Memories of the +lovely Thames--Baths of Ste. Marie--Loures--The cross-roads--Weak +walls--Entering St. Bertrand--An ancient house--The inn--A charming +garden--The cathedral--A national disgrace--"The Crocodile of St. +Bertrand"--The tomb of Hugues de Chatillon--Travelling desecraters--St. +Bertrand's rod--The ruined cloisters--Desolation--Swine +feeding--Montrejeau--The buffet--No milk!--French railway +officials--Trying experiences + + +CHAPTER XII. + +EAUX BONNES AND EAUX CHAUDES. + +Carriage _v_. diligence--Early birds--Height of absurdity +--Diminutive donkeys--A whitened region--"Crystal clear"--Washerwomen +and their gamps--A useful townhall--A half-way house--Moralising--A +much-loved pipe--An historic ruin--A noteworthy strong box--"Ici on +rase"--Where are the bears?--Women in gaiters--Picturesque costumes--A +lovely road--A "perfect" cure--A spring scene--A billiard-playing +priest--A well-placed pavilion--The Valentin and its cascades-- +Through solid rock--Gaps in the road--A grand scene--Wanted, an +artist--A fine torrent--Professional fishers--Lucky guests +--Musings--Poor Mr. Tubbins--Bonnes _v_. Chaudes--Over the +Col de Gourzy--Peculiar teams--Guelder roses--Spinning + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +BIARRITZ. + +A warm ride--Bayonne--A "Noah's ark" landscape-- +Amusements--Bathing--Shells--Cavillers--A canine feat--The pier and +rocks--A restless sea--"The Three Cormorants"--Dragon's-mouth Rock--To +the lighthouse--Maiden-hair ferns--Mrs. Blunt's adventure--The drive +round the lakes--_Osmunda regalis_ ferns--The pine-woods near the +bar--St. Etienne and the Guards' cemetery--Croix de Mouguere--Cambo and +the Pas de Roland--Anemones--A fat couple--A French scholar--Hendaye-- +Fuenterabia--A quaint old-world town--The Bidassoa--Pasages--San +Sebastien--The Citadol and graves--The "Silent Sisters"--Raised +prices--Parasols and spectacles + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +CONCLUSION. + +"Where duty leads"--Resorts in the Eastern Pyrenees--Caen--"Riou"--Our +paths diverge--"The Lesson of the Mountains"--Farewell + + * * * * * + +APPENDIX A + +APPENDIX B + +APPENDIX C + +APPENDIX D + +INDEX + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. + + + +MAP OF THE PYRENEES + +DAX + +THE TOWER OF MONCADE, ORTHEZ + +PAU (FROM THE JURANCON SIDE OF THE GAVE) + +THE CASTLE COURTYARD + +IN THE CASTLE PARK + +THE PINE FOREST NEAR THE COL D'ASPIN + +THE "PALOMIERES DE GERDE" + +LOURDES (A SMALL GENERAL VIEW) + +THE "OLD FORT" AT LOURDES + +ON THE ROAD TO ARGELES + +A "REGULAR Fix" (by Miss BLUNT) + +A PRETTY BIT AT ARGELES + +CAUTERETS + +THE ASCENT OF THE COL DE Riou (by Miss BLUNT) + +THE LAC DE GAUBE + +THE GORGE NEAR PIERREFITTE + +THE ANCIENT CHURCH OF THE TEMPLARS AT LUZ + +THE CASTLE OF STE. MARIE + +BAREGES + +ST. SAUVEUR + +PONT NAPOLEON, ST. SAUVEUR (by Miss BLUNT) + +THE VILLAGE OF GEDRE + +THE CHAOS NEAR GAVARNIE + +THE CIRQUE OF GAVARNIE (IN SUMMER) + +"ON THE TAREES ROAD" + +THE PEARL IN THE PEERLESS VALLEY + +THE CHURCH OF MONTAUBAN (by Miss BLUNT) + +THE RUE D'ENFER AND THE CASCADES + +ON THE ROAD TO SUPERBAGNERES + +ST. BERTRAND DE COMMINGES + +THE CROCODILE OF ST. BERTRAND (by Miss BLUNT) + +IN THE OLD CHURCH AT LARUNS + +CASCADE DU VALENTIN + +CRABE BRIDGE, IN THE EAUX CHAUDES GORGE + +THE BIOUS-ARTIGUES + +THE PIC DE GER + +THE ROCKS OF BIARRITZ + +THE VILLA EUGENIE + +MRS. BLUNT'S ADVENTURE (by Miss BLUNT):-- + + SCENE I.--BEFORE THE START + SCENE II.--THE ANCIENT STEED GREW YOUNG ONCE MORE + SCENE III.--WHO'S MY DRIVER? + +"MY PAW IS ON MY NATIVE HEATH, AND MY NAME IS 'Riou'" (by Miss BLUNT) + +"SEE MORNING'S GOLDEN RAYS," &c. + +"TOWERING ABOVE THE PLAIN" + +PANORAMA OF THE CIRQUE OF THE VALLEE DU LYS + +PANORAMA OF THE PIC DU MIDI DE BIGORRE + + + + +PREFACE. + + +It has been my endeavour in this volume to provide an illustrated +gossiping Guide to the Spas of the Pyrenees. Unlike previous books +on the same region, it deals with the resorts in spring, when they +are most charming. A certain amount of detail--which is unavoidable +in all guide-books--has been unavoidable here, and the rhymes have +been introduced in the hope of lightening the reading. These +rhymes, as a rule, have a distinct bearing on the subject under +discussion; but they are inserted in such a manner that the reader +can omit to read them--if he objects to such frivolities--without +losing the sense of the prose. + +Very little really fresh information has been gained about these +beautiful mountains since Mr. Charles Packe published his 'Guide to +the Pyrenees' in 1867: a few more springs have been discovered, a +few more mountains have been successfully ascended, and the towns +have gradually increased in size. There have been very few of those +melancholy accidents that we so often hear of from Switzerland, +because, probably, considerably fewer tourists attempt these +mountains than attempt the Alps. In this volume no descriptions of +scaling ice-walls, searching for the lammergeiers' nests, or any +other great feats, will be found. It contains a plain account of +what may be seen and done by any party visiting the mountain +resorts in spring, without much trouble or fatigue; and the +narrative form has been adopted throughout. + +M. Dore's illustrations speak for themselves; and Miss Blunt's +spirited sketches are a valuable acquisition. + +The Appendices have been compiled with great care; and--at the +suggestion of an experienced M.D.--brief comments on the chief +springs at the various Spas, and their healing properties, have +been included in the general information. + +I beg to acknowledge my indebtedness to M. Joanne's 'Pyrenees' and +Mr. Black's 'Summer Resorts;' and I have also great pleasure in +thanking Miss Blunt for her sketches, and my friend Mr. A. H. Crow, +F.R.G.S., for his kindly assistance in correcting inaccuracies. As, +however, it is extremely difficult to completely avoid them, I +shall feel obliged for the notification of any others that may +happen to exist. + +E. E. B. + + + +INTRODUCTION. + +Considering the number of English and Americans who yearly visit +Switzerland and the Riviera, it is astonishing that so few, +comparatively, ever think of approaching nearer to the Pyrenees +than Pau. And it is more astonishing still, that those who have +been enabled to enjoy the beauty of these mountains from the Place +Royale at Pau, should ever think of leaving their vicinity without +a more intimate acquaintance with them. + +It may be, that since the various resorts have gained celebrity for +the healing powers of their waters, healthy travellers are of +opinion that they will be surrounded by a crowd of sickly +individuals, whose very appearance will spoil all the pleasure that +they might otherwise experience. That this _might be_ the case _in +the season_, at a few spas, is not to be denied, but _in spring_ +not an invalid of that kind is to be met with, and the bathing +establishments have no customers; but the scenery is everywhere at +its best. Dr. Madden writes: "The attractions of the Pyrenees are +not, however, confined to the invalid traveller, but even for the +pleasure tourist offer inducements for a pedestrian excursion in +some respects superior to any in Switzerland;" and there can be no +doubt that they have a beauty of their own quite distinct from the +grandeur of the Alps, and yet equally as wonderful in its style. + +Extending for nearly 300 miles from the foaming billows of the +Biscay to the azure waters of the Mediterranean, they form a huge +barrier "'twixt France and Spain"; gaining their name of Pyrenees +from the words "Pic Neres," which in the _patois_ of the country +signifies "black peaks!" That this title is a misnomer for all but +three months of the year--viz., from July to October--must be +already a well-known fact; for who would call them "black" when +clothed in their garments of snow? + +The highest summits are in the Maladetta group, and the Pic Nethou +(11,170 ft.) is the highest of all; while the average height of +this magnificent range of mountains is between five and six +thousand feet. + +Luxurious valleys branch out in all directions, fed by the mountain +streams, and among the central heights the wonderful natural +amphitheatres known as Cirques stand in majestic solitude. The +Cirque of Gavarnie--the best known--possesses on a bright day in +spring such a charm, in its snowy imperial splendour, as the Alps +would fail to surpass. In scenes where a lake adds such wonderful +effect, Switzerland is quite supreme; we know of no view in the +Pyrenees, of a comparable nature, that could pretend to vie with +the harmonious loveliness of the panorama that can be seen at +sunset from Montreux across Lac Leman, when the water is rippleless +and the mountains are bathed in a rosy flood. But for all that, in +other ways--in flower-clothed slopes, in luxurious valleys, in +winding rivers and foaming cascades--the Pyrenees present pictures +that, with the freshness of springtime to aid them, cannot fail to +delight and charm. + +Four roads cross the Pyrenees from France to Spain: the Route +Nationale, from Paris to Madrid _via_ Bayonne; the Route +Departementale, from Bayonne to Pampeluna _via_ the Col d'Urdax; the +Route Nationale, from Perpignan to Barcelona _via_ Gerona; and the +route from Pau to Jaca _via_ Oloron. There are other ways of entering +Spain by the Cols (passes), but over these a horse track is the +broadest path. + +The principal bathing resorts on the French side are connected by +the splendid Route Thermale, which extends for 70 miles; but, owing +to its exposed position in some parts, especially between Eaux +Bonnes and Argeles, and Bareges and Ste. Marie, it is only wholly +open three or four months in the year! + +Of the mineral springs it is sufficient to state here that, within +the same extent of country, no other part of Europe can present +such a wonderful choice. There are three principal kinds--the +sulphurous, the saline, and the ferruginous; and over 200 springs +contribute to them. Some resorts have waters of each of these +classes, and many have at any rate two out of the three. + +Of these, fuller information is given in the Appendix, as well as +the chief uses of each, and the affections for which they have been +successfully used. + +As regards sport, unattended by much labour or fatigue, the +Pyrenees can hardly be recommended, except perhaps for fishing. +There is very good fishing in several of the rivers, but unhappily +French conservancy laws are so lax--if indeed they have any at all +--that peasants may frequently be seen at the waterside with a rod +in one hand and a capacious net in the other, so that if +unsuccessful with the first, they will at any rate not come home +empty-handed; unless some brother "sportsman" has just preceded +them over the same pools! + +Though the wolves have nearly all been poisoned, there are still +some bears to shoot in winter, and izard (a species of chamois) and +capercailzie to pursue in autumn; but the "sportsmen" are many and +the game few, and the way to their haunts lies by bad and +unfrequented paths; so that "le jeu ne vaut pas la chandelle." To +the botanist and the geologist, however, there is a splendid field, +which, varying in richness according to the locality, is more or +less rich everywhere; and besides these, the entomologist will not +visit this territory in vain. To the mountaineer these almost +numberless summits offer attractions of all kinds, from the wooded +slope with its broad mule-path, to the ice-wall only to be scaled +by the use of the rope and the hatchet. There are ascents which a +child almost might attempt in safety, and there are others where +the bravest men might well quail. + +For the ordinary pedestrian, beautiful walks abound in the vicinity +of nearly every Spa, but near St. Sauveur, Luchon, Eaux Chaudes, +and Argeles they are, we think, most charming. The roads on the +whole are excellent, and the hotels, with hardly any exceptions, +particularly clean and comfortable; and, with the one drawback of +the bread (see Appendix D)--which can be easily remedied--the food +is well cooked and well served. + +It must be understood that the succeeding chapters only describe-- +or attempt to describe--scenes that every one in moderate health +can go and enjoy for themselves, and it is in the hope that a few +more may be induced to visit the region about which they speak, +that they have ever seen the light. For accurate information about +the mountains and the best means of ascending them, no better +guide-books could be wanted than Count Russell's 'Grandes +Ascensions des Pyrenees' [Footnote: Hachette et Cie., Paris.] in +French and English, and Mr. Chas. Packe's 'Guide to the Pyrenees'; +[Footnote: Longmans and Co., London.] while for information of all +kinds Monsieur P. Joanne's 'Pyrenees,' [Footnote: Hachette et Cie., +Paris.] in French, could hardly be surpassed. For the ordinary +traveller Mr. Black's 'South of France Summer Resorts, Pyrenees,' +&c., is a compact and useful companion; and for guidance in matters +medical, Dr. Madden's 'Spas of the Pyrenees' and Dr. Lee's 'Baths +of France' are exceedingly valuable. + +With these preliminary remarks we beg to refer the reader to our +experiences of 'A Spring in the Pyrenees.' + + + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +PAU. + +Trains and Steamers--Bordeaux and its Hotels--Lamothe--Morcenx-- +Dax--Puyoo--Orthez--First impressions of Pau--The Hotels and +Pensions--Amusements--Pension Colbert--Making up parties for the +Pyrenees--The Place Royale and the view--The Castle of Pau and its +approaches--Origin of name--Historical notes--The Towers--Visiting +hours--The Tapestries--The Wonderful Bedstead--The Delusive +Tortoiseshell Cradle--The "Tour de la Monnaie"--The Park--The +Billeres Plains--Tennis and Golf--The Route de Billeres and the +Billeres Woods--French _Sportsmen_--Hunting--Racing--Lescar and its +old Cathedral--Fontaine de Marnieres--The Bands--The Pare Beaumont +--Ballooning--The Casino--Polo--The Cemetery--The Churches of St. +Martin and St. Jacques--The "Old World and the New"--Rides and +Drives--to Betharram--The Start--Peasants and their ways--Vines +trained by the roadside--Sour Grapes--The "March of the Men of +Garlic"--Coarraze--Henry IV.'s Castle--Betharram--The Ivied Bridge +--The Inn--The "Via Crucis"--Assat and Gelos--The Coteaux-- +Perpignaa--Sketching with a Donkey-cart--Over the Coteaux to Gan-- +The Drive to Pietat--Picnicking and Rejected Attentions--The +Church--Feather Moss--Bizanos--Carnival time--"Poor Pillicoddy"-- +"Idyllic Colbert." + + +Few Winter Resorts have gained a greater celebrity than Pau, and +its popularity yearly increases. Fifty years ago its English +visitors might have been counted by tens; to-day they must be +reckoned by thousands. But this is only during the winter and +spring; in summer it is almost entirely deserted by foreigners, few +people in fact, unless compelled by circumstances, staying after +May has passed into June. + +For many reasons it has become a favourite resort for invalids, an +important one being, its exceedingly accessible position. +Notwithstanding that it is 776 miles distant from London, fewer +changes are requisite than for many a journey of less than a +quarter of the distance. The quickest way from London is _via_ +Dover, Calais, Paris, Bordeaux and Dax; and as a through sleeping +carriage can be obtained from Paris to Pau, that part of the +journey is anything but formidable. For those who prefer the sea +route, the fine boats of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company which +start from Liverpool are the most preferable conveyance, though the +less expensive steamers belonging to the General Steam Navigation +Company, sailing from London, are comfortable enough in fine +weather. The former land their passengers at Pauillac, whence they +proceed to Bordeaux by tender or train; but the latter boats, being +smaller, can come right up to Bordeaux, which is a decided +advantage. + +Though the third port in France, Bordeaux can certainly not be +recommended as a stopping-place unless necessity requires it, for +the hotel-keepers generally succeed in reaping a rich harvest from +travellers passing through. + +The Hotel de Nantes is the nearest to the quay, but the Hotel +Richelieu will be found more moderate and more comfortable. In the +town, the grand Hotel de France has the best reputation, but "birds +of passage" have apparently to pay for it, whereas old stagers +concur in saying that for _gentlemen_--especially those who +appreciate a good dinner--the best place is the Hotel de Bayonne. + +Bordeaux has many fine buildings and objects of interest over which +a week can be easily spent, and for this length of time the hotel +prices are in proportion considerably less per diem; but in winter +it is especially bleak and cold, and travellers are advised to get +on to Dax or Pau as quickly as possible. The railway journey of one +hundred and forty-five miles to Pau occupies as a rule about six +hours, passing Lamothe, Morcenx, Dax, Puyoo, and Orthez. Lamothe +[Footnote: See Appendix.] (25 miles) is the junction for Arcachon, +[Footnote: See Appendix.] the celebrated winter station among the +pines, situated on the shores of a landlocked bay; and Morcenx +[Footnote: See Appendix.] (68 miles), is likewise the junction for +the Tarbes line and Bigorre. + +Dax [Footnote: See Appendix.] (92 miles) has a well-deserved +reputation for its baths, and possesses several mineral bathing +establishments, of which the "Grand Etablissement des Thermes" +stands first. The mud baths are perhaps more celebrated than those +of steam or water, being especially efficacious in severe, and +often apparently otherwise incurable, cases of rheumatism. There +are also some pleasant walks by the River Adour, and in the +neighbourhood there is a bed of fossil salt. + +Puyoo [Footnote: See Appendix.] (111-1/2 miles) is the junction for +the Bayonne line, but is without other interest. + +[Illustration: DAX.] + +Orthez [Footnote: See Appendix.] (120-3/4 miles) is of historic +interest and possesses some noteworthy remains. M. Dore has +represented the Tour de Moncade, built in 1240, with mediaeval +surroundings, and not quite as it may be seen now. It was the scene +of many of Gaston Phoebus' greatest crimes. The old fourteenth- +century bridge over the river, with its central tower, could tell +some tales too, if we could discover "sermons in stones"; and the +plain below the town was the scene of one of Wellington's many +victories in 1814. + +Two coaches start from Orthez, one to Salies (10 miles), celebrated +for its salt springs, and the other to Mauleon-Licharre, a +picturesque spot where fine views, cascades, and ruins abound. + +[Illustration: THE TOWER OF MONCADE, ORTHEZ.] + +Passing the ancient town of Lescar (140-1/2 miles)--of which we +shall have more to say later--the train is soon drawn up in the +station of Pau, and directly the traveller shows his face outside, +he is hailed by the "cochers" from the various hotels in a +bewildering chorus. This is the same, _more_ or _less_, at every +French town where English people congregate, and Pau only inclines, +if anything, towards the "_more_." + +The first impression conveyed when leaving the station and passing +along the Avenue de la Gare, is, that the town is mainly composed +of the castle and magnificent hotels which tower above the station. +This, to a certain extent, is correct, for they occupy a large +area, and the views from the windows of the hotels, as well as from +those of the castle, are the finest in the town. Issuing from the +Avenue into the "Place de la Monnaie," the ruins of the "Mint" +tower, and above them the castle itself, come into full view, after +which the road continues along the Rue Marca for a short distance, +branching afterwards to the right into the most ancient square of +the town, the Place Grammont. + +The hotels de la Poste and Henri IV. are here situated, but the +roads to the various other hotels and pensions diverge in different +directions. To the right up the Rue Bordenave and along the Rue +Henri IV. is the route to all the finest hotels, of which the +"France" is the best, and the "Gassion" the most imposing; the +others are the Belle Vue, Splendide, Beau Sejour, and de la Paix, +all with the exception of the last possessing the magnificent +mountain view, but although from the windows of the "Paix" only a +side glimpse can be obtained, yet at the same time this hotel faces +the "Place Royale," the popular resort of all classes in Pau. From +the left-hand corner of the Place Grammont a narrow street leads to +the fine church of St. Jacques, which is also the nearest way to +the grand Hotel Continental near Trinity Church, and the Pension +Hattersly in the Rue Porte Neuve. But the route more to the left +still, leading up the hill and joining the Route de Bordeaux, past +the Haute Plante parade ground, is the usual one followed, +especially for the Pensions--Lecour, Nogues, and Maison Piete in +the Rue d'Orleans; Pension Etcherbest, in the Passage Plante Hotel +de Londres, on the route de Billeres; and Maison Colbert, in the +Rue Montpensier. + +Well knowing the comfort of a good pension, and intending to make a +long stay, we drove straight from the station to the well-known +Maison Colbert, and were soon as comfortable as we could wish. +There are many people we are aware who detest "pensions." "We don't +approve," say they, "of meals at fixed hours, of a drawing-room +common to all, and of such a small house that everybody must know +everyone else before the first dinner is over!" Well! why should +they? They can go to the hotels; but let all those who are +suffering or delicate put away thin-skinned feelings of +superiority, till they have a good enough constitution to support +them, and in the meantime seek peace and kindness, such as may be +experienced at the Pension Colbert. + +If, on the other hand, it can be taken as a criterion that those +living in hotels are not invalids, then the visitor contingent of +Pau must consist principally of healthy people, who prefer a good +climate and lively society to the attractions that England and +America have to offer from October to May. This is hardly correct, +but there can be no doubt that more than half the foreigners +[Footnote: From the French standpoint--i.e., English and American.] +who come for that period, do so for comfort and pleasure alone. And +it is not to be wondered at. Who, that was untrammelled by the +cares of business, or shortened purse-strings, but would not gladly +exchange the bill of fare England has to offer, of London fogs, +east winds, Scotch mists, and Irish dynamite, for the handsome menu +awaiting him at Pau? Drives, kettledrums, dinners, balls, lawn +tennis, polo, pigeon-shooting, golf, racing and hunting; and, if he +particularly wishes it, a balloon ascent as well. This last-named +is an expensive pleasure, as the aeronaut, judging by the prices on +the bill, requires a substantial fee, and it is besides an +amusement life insurance companies do not readily countenance. + +Of course, if one comes to Pau merely for enjoyment, hotel life may +be preferable to that in a pension, though our experiences of the +latter mode have been very pleasant ones. It is so easy to make up +a small party for a drive or a picnic, and being all in one house +there is but little chance of any mishaps before starting, such as +individuals forgetting the time that had been fixed and keeping the +rest waiting. Above all, when planning a tour into the Pyrenees, it +is essentially necessary to form a party of some sort, if the trip +is to be carried out in the spring; for although, as we shall +endeavour to show later, the scenery is then at its best, still, +since it is not _the_ season, only one or two hotels are open in +each resort, and society is "nil." + +Then further, when people are going to travel in company for +several weeks it is well that at least they should know something +of one another, for if they all commenced "pulling different ways" +up in the mountains, the safety, or at any rate the composure of +each, would be likely to suffer. My own relations, who were with me +at first, left for England long before the mountain trip was +arranged, but we made up a very pleasant quartette before the time +for starting arrived, and accordingly visited Pau in company as +well as the mountains. This quartette consisted of Mrs. and Miss +Blunt, Mr. Sydney and myself, and though it will be seen by +subsequent chapters that the trio decided on staying a fortnight at +Biarritz in preference to following my example and spending the +time at Bagneres de Bigorre, yet we made arrangements to meet +either at Lourdes or Argeles and thenceforward to travel in +company. + +To see Pau in its beauty, winter must have given place to spring. +When the grass once more begins to grow, the trees to unfold their +tender leaves, the rivers to swell, and the birds to sing; while +yet the sun's rays cannot pierce the snowy garment on the distant +heights; then Pau is in her beauty. Passing--as we so often passed +--down the Rue Montpensier and the consecutive Rue Serviez, into the +Rue du Lycee, then turning from it to the right for a short +distance, till, with the English club at the corner on our left, we +turned into the Place Royale, and, with the fine theatre frowning +on our backs, quickly made our way between the rows of plane-trees, +but just uncurling their leaves, to the terrace whence the whole +enormous expanse of mountain can be viewed, our admiration at the +magnificent scene unfolded before us never diminished. But our +favourite time was at sunset, especially one of those warm ruddy +sunsets that tint the heavens like a superb red canopy. + +Then, leaning on the terrace wall, we admired in silence. Beneath +us lay part of the town and the railway station, the river beyond, +in one part divided and slowly flowing over its stony bed among the +alder bushes; at another, gathered together again, rushing +furiously along as though impatient to lose itself for ever in the +depths of the ocean. + +[Illustration: PAU (FROM THE JURANCON SIDE OF THE GAVE).] + +Beyond the river, amid the varied green of tree and meadow, nestled +the scattered villages, with the hills above, here brown with bare +vineyards, there vying with the meadow's green; and in the +background behind and above all, the mighty range of snow mountains +extending as far as eye could reach, and fading in the dim haze of +distance. Then, as the sun sank lower, the soft rosy hue shone on +the castle windows, glinted through the trees of the Chateau Park, +dyed the swift waters of the river, and tipped the snowy crests +afar. There are few, we think, who would not, as we did, enjoy +fully the contemplation of such a scene. + +From the Place Royale to the Chateau is a very short distance; +turning to the right past the Church of St. Martin--a fine well- +built edifice--and the Hotel Gassion, it stands in full view, and +the broad walk passing beneath the side arches leads into the +courtyard. In order to obtain a good view of the entrance and the +towers that guard it, it is preferable to approach the castle by +the Rue Henri IV. (a continuation of the Rue du Lycee that passes +between the theatre and the end of the Place Royale), which, when +the shops are left behind, suddenly curves to the left, to the foot +of the bridge leading direct to the main entrance. It is worth +while to stand on the bridge for a short time, and survey the whole +scene, which can hardly fail to carry the thoughts back to olden +times, and as the castle is so intimately connected with the town +of Pau, a few explanatory historical facts will not, we trust, be +considered out of place before continuing the inspection of the +edifice. The origin of the name of Pau is the Spanish "Palo," a +"stick" or a "stake," and takes us back to the time when the +Saracens had taken possession of a large part of Spain and were +making raids beyond the Pyrenees. Feeling their unprotected +position, the inhabitants of the Gave Valley made over a piece of +ground to a Prince of Bearn, on the condition that he should erect +a fortress for their defence thereon. This he agreed to do, and as +the extent of his allotment was marked out by "stakes," the castle +became known as the castle of "stakes" or Palo, which in time +became Pau. + +Its commanding position and appearance inspired confidence, and +houses soon sprang up around; and, at least a century before the +birth of Henry IV., Pau had become an important place. In time it +became the capital of the kingdom of Navarre, and later, when +Navarre, Bearn, and the "Pays Basques" were constituted as one +department in 1790, it still retained its position as chief town. + +Now to resume our inspection from the bridge. The two towers in +full view on either side of the sculptured facade, are the finest +and most prominent of the six that flank the castle, but there is +one in the interior of the court of more interest. The highest of +these two is the donjon on the left, built of brick, and known as +"La Tour de Gaston Phoebus" (112 feet). Its walls are over eight +feet in thickness. The tower on the right is known as "La Tour +Neuve," while the most interesting is that known as "La Tour de +Montaueset" or "Monte-Oiseau," in which are the ancient dungeons and +oubliettes. The porter has rooms on the ground-floor of the Gaston +Phoebus Tower, and his wife sells photographs singly and in books. +Outside, underneath and adjoining the same tower, is a small modern +(1843) chapel. + +The hours for visiting the interior of the Chateau are between 10 +and 12 and 2 and 4 daily, and the entrance is free, though the +guide expects a gratuity, say of one franc for one person, two +francs for three. As we were always lucky enough to be the only +people wanting to inspect, at the particular hour we went--which +was always as near ten as possible--we managed by judicious means +to calm the impetuosity of the guide, and induce him to tell his +tale slowly. If, as usually happens, other people are there at the +same time, he rattles off his lesson at such a pace that it +requires very good French scholars to even _follow_ him; to +remember what he says is out of the question. Whether by "more +judicious means," it would be possible to induce him to go round +out of hours, we do not know, never having had occasion to try, but +we certainly think it would be worth an attempt, if the visitors +could not otherwise manage to hit a time when they could go over +alone. + +Passing under one of the three arches of the facade, we traversed +the courtyard to the extremity, and while waiting for the guide to +come to us at the small side door, examined the curious sculptures +surrounding the window on the left. On the door being opened we +passed into the Salle des Gardes, and from that into the Salle a +Manger, where stands a statue of Henry IV., supposed to be more +like him than any other. Then through a succession of rooms and up +flights of stairs, and through rooms again, to describe which as +they deserve would alone fill up a small volume, but this we do not +intend to do, contenting ourselves with simply mentioning as much +of what we saw as we hope may induce everyone to follow our +example, and see them for themselves. To any lovers of a grand +view, that which may be seen from the upper windows of the castle +is almost alone worth coming for, and the tapestry which lines the +walls of many of the rooms is simply exquisite. + +The "Sports and Pastimes of the various Months" of Flanders work, +in the "Salle des Etats"--the six pieces of Gobelin work in the +Queen's Boudoir on the first floor--the five pieces of the same +work, including "Venus's toilet," in Queen Jeanne's room on the +second floor, and the four pieces of Brussels in Henry IV.'s +bedroom--also on the second floor--are only a few of the many +wonderful pieces of tapestry. + +[Illustration: THE CASTLE COURTYARD.] + +In the "Grand Reception Room," in which the massacres took place in +1569, is a fine mosaic table and Sevres vases, besides the Flanders +tapestry. + +There are several objects of interest in Henry IV.'s room, in which +he is said to have been born 13th December, 1553, including the +magnificently carved bedstead; but the chief attraction is the +tortoise-shell cradle, which as a rule Frenchmen come only to see. +Why they should come is quite a different matter, seeing that +although a tortoise's shell might make a very comfortable cradle +for even such an illustrious infant as was Henry IV., yet as he +never had anything to do with the one in question, it is rather +absurd that year after year they should flock to see it out of +respect to him; and the absurdity is greater, since in a statement +on the wall hard by this fact is made known. None of the northern +rooms are open to the public, but the chief objects of interest +have been transferred to the other wing! + +Leaving the courtyard by the road under the side arches that leads +to the terrace, the tasteful gardening of the surroundings is +noticeable, and as soon as the lower walk is reached, the "Tour de +la Monnaie" lies in full view below. No efforts are made to keep +these ruins, in which Calvin used to preach, from crumbling into +dust. _"O tempora! O mores!"_ + +From the terrace on the other side of the Castle, the remains of +the old fosse may be seen, though houses are now built where the +water used to lie. A broad pathway encircles the edifice, and a +bridge leads from the extreme end over the Rue Marca into the +Castle Park, called also "lower plantation" (basse plante) in +distinction from the "upper plantation" (haute plante), which +surrounds the barracks. Near the road the trees are planted stiffly +in rows, but when another and smaller bridge has been traversed, +the beauty of the Park is manifest. + +[Illustration: IN THE CASTLE PARK.] + +Following the course of the river, and filled with the finest trees +and shrubs, through which the beautiful little nuthatch may +occasionally be seen flying, and among which many other birds sing--it +is indeed, with its long cool walks and pleasant glades, a lovely +promenade. The Bayonne road is the boundary on the opposite side from +the river, and just beyond the limits of the Park a path branches off +river-wards to the Billeres Plains, where tennis and golf are played. +In the opposite direction another leads up under the shadow of an old +church, and joins the Route de Billeres, which, starting from the Bordeaux +road, passes the Villa Lacroix and other handsome houses, and +descending throws off another branch into the Bayonne road. It then +curves in an opposite direction, and ascends, while at the same +time skirting the grounds of the Chateau de Billeres, to the +favourite Billeres woods. From the woods it communicates in a +nearly straight line with the Bordeaux road again, so that in +reality it describes three-quarters of a circle. + +These woods, though sadly disfigured by the demand for fire-wood, +are pleasant to ramble in when the soldiers are not in possession, +and there are drives through them in all directions. At one time +wild duck, pigeons, and woodcock were plentiful there, but that +time has passed, though the gallant French _sportsmen_ may still be +seen trooping through with their dogs after blackbirds and tomtits! + +Pau dearly loves excitement. Three times a week in the winter the +hounds meet in the vicinity, and many are the carriages and many +the fair occupants that congregate to see the start. It is +generally a very gay scene, with no lack of scarlet coats and good +steeds, pretty dresses and sometimes pretty faces too; and though +afterwards they enjoy many a good run, there are but few falls and +fewer broken heads. But it is over the races that Pau gets really +excited. Hunting only attracts the well-to-do, but all who can hire +or borrow even a shandry make a point of not missing the "races." +And these meetings are not few and far between, but about once a +fortnight, for there is no "Jockey Club" at Pau, and consequently +it pleases itself about the fixtures. + +The course, which is some two miles from the town on the Bordeaux +road, is overlooked by an imposing grand stand, which generally +seems well filled, though the betting is not very heavy on the +whole. We drove over one afternoon, and after waiting for three +events which to us were not very exciting, proceeded towards +Lescar. The nearest way would have been by turning to the right by +a white house on the Bordeaux road (not far from the race-course), +but we continued along it instead for some distance, finally +turning off down a narrow lane without any sign of a hedge. After +following this for a length of time, we took the road at right +angles leading between fields covered with gorse, and later, +descending one or two steep hills with trees on either side, we +reascended and entered the ancient town of Lescar, only to dip +under the tottering walls of the ancient castle--a few minutes +later--and mount again under a narrow archway to the church. + +P. Joanne in his excellent guide-book calls it "the ancient +Beneharum, destroyed about the year 841 by the Normans, rebuilt in +980 under the name of Lascurris. In the old chronicles it was +called the 'Ville Septenaire,' because it possessed, it is said, +seven churches, seven fountains, seven mills, seven woods, seven +vineyards, seven gates and seven towers on the ramparts." The +church now restored was formerly a cathedral, and there are some +fine old mosaics (11th century) to be seen under the boarding near +the altar. Jeanne d'Albret and other Bearnais sovereigns are buried +there. + +The Castle is very old, though the square tower dates from the 14th +century only. + +The whole town, so curious and ancient-looking, is well worth a +visit, and forms a contrast in its fallen splendour to Pau's rising +greatness, such as cannot fail to strike any intelligent observer. + +Passing through the town, we took the road to the right homewards, +which joins the Bayonne route, but instead of continuing along the +latter all the way, we branched off into the route de Billeres, and +came by the Villa Lacroix and the Hotel de Londres back to the +pension. + +Another road leads from the Villa Lacroix over a brook, and past +the establishment of the "Petites Soeurs des Pauvres" into the +country, and in fact to Lescar. The brook is known as the Herrere, +and by following the path to the left which runs beside it, the +"Fontaine de Marnieres" is reached. The water of this fountain is +considered very pure and strengthening, and many people drink it +daily. + +The band is another attraction at Pau; twice a week in the +afternoon they play in the Place Royale, and twice in the Parc +Beaumont. The music is of a very good order, and excessively +pleasing to listen to from beneath the shade of the trees. The Parc +Beaumont is quite near the Place Royale, the principal entrance +being at the end of the Rue du Lycee, close to the Hotel Beau +Sejour. + +Balloon ascents were often the chief attraction on Sundays, which +"all the world and his wife" went out to see. There is _a_ casino +in the Park, used occasionally for concerts, but _the_ casino is +behind the Hotel Gassion, and though it was hardly finished enough +for comfort when we saw it, that defect will soon doubtless be +remedied. + +Polo is generally played in the "Haute Plante" (in front of the +Barracks), and bicycle races take place there also occasionally. It +is only a step from this pleasure-ground to the cemetery, and +though this nearness never affects the joy of the children on the +roundabouts or the young people swinging, yet it is another +practical example that "in the midst of life we are in death." + +The Rue Bayard--on the left of the Haute Plante--leads to the +cemetery gates, and the tombs extend behind the barracks; those of +Protestants being divided from the Roman Catholics' by a carefully +kept walk leading from the right-hand corner of the first or Roman +Catholic portion! + +There is a charm about this last resting-place in spite of its +mournfulness, and the many flowers load the air with a delicious +perfume. The marble statue of a Russian lady in fashionable +costume, over her tomb, is considered a fine piece of sculpture, +and many people go there simply to see it. + +The two principal French churches are those of St. Martin and St. +Jacques, but the latter is in every way the more beautiful. The +"Palais de Justice" stands close to St. Jacques, but facing the +Place Duplaa, where many of the best houses are situated. The Rue +d'Orleans, communicating the Place Duplaa and the Route De Bordeaux, +contains many Good French pensions, which have been previously +mentioned. + +By following the Rue St. Jacques past the church of the same name +and turning down the street which cuts it at right angles, called +the "Rue de la Fontaine", the ancient part of the town can be +reached. It may be here remarked the peculiar characteristics of +Pau, and yet probably seven visitors out of ten fail to notice it. +the other end of "Fountain Street" leads into the Rue de la +Prefecture. this is one of the very busiest streets in Pau, and if +after leaving one of the magnificent new hotels we traverse this +busy street, and then suddenly plunge down the Rue de la Fontaine +to what was once the bed of the castle fosse--where the houses are +small and dirty, and the walls and slates barely hold together, so +wretchedly old and tottering are they--where, instead of bustle and +grandeur, there is only gloom and poverty, and in place of the +enjoyment of the present, there is the longing for a lot a little +less hard in the future; we feel as though we had gone back several +centuries in as many minutes, and have a decided wish to return to +nineteenth-century civilisation again. + +We did not find the rides and drives the least pleasant of our +enjoyments, and there are so many places to visit, that picnics are +plentiful as a matter of course. + +The chief excursion from Pau is to Eaux Bonnes and Eaux Chaudes, +but as there is a slight danger of damp beds there--if you get any +beds at all--early in the year, we postponed this grand trip for +another time. + +Another long drive is to Lourdes and back, but this we did not +take, as we meant to stop a night there later; but one day we made +up a party for Betharram, which is a long way on the same road, +and, under ordinarily kind auspices, a delightful day's outing. + +If it was less pleasant than it might have been to us, the weather +had a good deal to do with it, and the other causes may develop +themselves in narration. There were ten of us, and we started in a +grand yellow brake with four horses and a surly coachman. The +morning was excessively warm, and some of the party were of such +rotund proportions, that the thin ones were nearly lost sight of, +if they chanced to sit between them, while the warmth approached to +that of a cucumber frame with the sun on it. We attracted a good +deal of attention as we _crawled_ down the Rue Serviez and passed +the entrance to the Pare Beaumont, down the hill to Bizanos; but as +soon as the chateau that takes its name from the village was +reached, we met with little admiration, except from the good people +jogging along in tumble-down carts and shandries. The peasants +seemed on the whole a good-natured lot, taking a joke with a smile +often approaching a broad grin, and occasionally, but only very +_occasionally_, attempting one in return. The following is an +instance of one of these rare occasions:--We were walking beside +the Herrere stream in the direction of the Fontaine de Marnieres; +several women were busy washing clothes at the water's edge, and +above, spread out in all their glory, were three huge umbrellas-- +umbrellas of the size of those used on the Metropolitan 'buses, but +of bright blue cloth on which the presence of clay was painfully +evident. We asked the price without smiling, and the women, +wondering, looked up. We said they must be very valuable, and we +would give as much as _six sous_ for any one of them. At this +moment another woman, who had been listening to the conversation +from a little garden behind, came up and said: "Those umbrellas +belong to me, and they _are_ worth a lot of money; but I will sell +you one cheap _if you promise to send it to the Exhibition!_" + +But to resume. After crossing the railway line beyond Bizanos, and +leaving the pleasant little waterfall on the right, the sun began +to pour down on us very fiercely, and all we could do, wedged in as +we were, was to appear happy and survey the country. + +It was curious to note the method of training the vines up the +various trees by the roadside. The simplicity and efficacy of the +method seemed plain enough, but with memories of the difficulty +experienced in guarding our own fruit even with glass-tipped walls +to defend it, we were forced to the conviction that in the Pyrenees +fruit stealers are unknown. Perhaps, however, the "grapes are +always sour," or sufficiently high up to give the would-be thief +time to think of the penalty, which probably would be "higher" +still. + +The road continues nearly in a direct line through Assat (5 miles), +but when that village was left behind, the mountains seemed to be +considerably nearer, and even the snow summits--a bad sign of rain +--appeared within a fairly easy walk. + +The painful odour of garlic frequently assailed our nostrils +passing through the hamlets, and though it is not quite as bad as +the Japanese root _daikon_, yet to have to talk to a man who has +been eating it, is a positive punishment. We would fain bring about +a reform among the people, getting them to substitute some other +healthily-scented vegetable in place of the objectionable one. To +this end we composed a verse to a very old but popular tune, +styling it + +"THE MARCH OF THE MEN OF GARLIC." + + Men of Garlic--large your numbers, + Long indeed your conscience slumbers, + Can't you change and eat cu-cumbers? + Men of Garlic, say! + They are sweet and tender, + Short and thick or slender. + Then, we know well your breath won't smell + And sickness' pangs engender. + Men of Garlic, stop your scorning, + Change your food and hear our warning, + See the day of Progress dawning, + Give three cheers-- + Hurray! + +Doubtless the fact of the verse being in English will militate +against its efficiency, but before we had time to turn it into +French, we had passed to the right of the quaint old town of Nay, +and were entering Coarraze (10 1/2 miles). As we bore off to the +right across the river, the old castle--where Henry IV. spent a +great part of his childhood like any peasant child--towered above +us, and the scenery around became considerably more picturesque +than any we had passed through that morning. The banks of the river +were more shapely, and the alternation of bushes and meadow, with +the varying lights and shades on the distant peaks and the nearer +slopes, would have seemed more than beautiful, if our wedged +positions and the accompanying warmth had not somewhat evaporated +our admiration. Though the heat remained, the sun had disappeared +behind huge banks of clouds, as we at length entered Betharram (15 +miles), so, instead of pulling up at the hotel, we drove on to the +beautiful ivy-hung bridge, a great favourite with artists. This +really belongs to the hamlet of Lestelle, which adjoins Betharram, +and is so picturesque that the villagers ought to be proud of it; +doubtless in the old days, when Notre Dame de Betharram's shrine +was the cherished pilgrimage--now superseded by the attractions of +N. D. de Lourdes--many thousand "holy" feet crossed and recrossed +this ancient bridge! + +In order to reach the hotel we had to ascend slightly to turn the +vehicle, much to the consternation of one of the party, who, +clasping the back rail with both hands and endeavouring to look +brave, could not withhold a small scream which escaped from the +folds of her veil. + +The dining-room of the hotel smelt decidedly close, so we spread +our sumptuous lunch on tables outside; but Jupiter Pluvius soon +showed his disapproval of our plans, and forced us to go within, +where a fine specimen of a French soldier had done his best to fill +the place with smoke. However, we managed fairly well, in spite of +some sour wine which we tried, under the name of "Jurancon vieux," +for the "good of the house" and the "worse of ourselves." As the +rain passed off ere we had finished, we afterwards repaired to the +"Via Crucis," where there is a small chapel at every turn till the +"Calvary" is reached at the summit. The first chapel is beside the +road, midway between the hotel and the bridge, and the view from +the summit on a fine day is said to be very good; but when only +half-way, the rain came down in such torrents that we were glad to +return to the inn for shelter. For two hours the downpour lasted, +but it cooled the air and rendered the return journey a little more +supportable; and when we arrived at the house, we also arrived at +the decision that never again to a picnic, as far as we were +concerned, should thinness and rotundity go side by side! + +There is no doubt that a landau is the most comfortable vehicle for +a drive of any length, although some very comfortable little T- +carts, with good ponies between the shafts, can be hired too. We +often used the latter for drives to Assat and over the suspension- +bridge--so old and shaky--and home by Gelos and Jurancon; while at +other times, taking the necessaries for afternoon tea, we drove as +far as Nay, crossing the river to enter its ancient square--in +which stand the Townhall and the Maison Carree, of historical fame +--and then leaving the tanneries and houses behind, sought some +quiet spot down by the water, for sketching and enjoying our tea. + +Rides or drives on the coteaux (hills) in the vicinity are very +pleasant, as the views from certain points are particularly fine. +Of these the most popular is to Perpignaa, two hours being +sufficient for the drive there and back. It is a nice walk for an +average pedestrian, and the road is easy to find. We generally +started in the afternoon, passing across the bridge and through +Jurancon, and where the road forks, bearing along the Gan road to +the right. Then, taking the first turning to the right, leading +between fields, we reached an avenue of trees, with a village +beyond. We then followed the road across the bridge to the left, +and kept bearing in that direction till we reached the foot of the +coteau, where there is only one route, and consequently no chance +of taking any but the right one! We heard of a case of two young +ladies going off in a donkey cart, intending to sketch the view +above Perpignaa, who, when they reached the avenue, turned down to +the right and wandered along the bank of the Gave as far as the +donkey would go, and then sketched a church steeple in despair. But +such a mistake is quite unnecessary; and they would doubtless have +remedied theirs, if they had not found it obligatory at last to +push behind in order to make the donkey move homewards. Although +very hoarse and tired when they arrived, they had voice enough left +to say they "wouldn't go sketching in a donkey cart again!" + +From the foot of the hill the road zigzags, making a fairly easy +gradient to the summit, on which stands a house whose owner kindly +allows visitors to walk about his grounds and participate in the +view. When riding, we followed the road that continues on the right +for several miles, in order to prolong the pleasure produced by the +exercise and the view. + +Another pleasant ride is by way of the coteaux to Gan, and back by +the road, or _vice versa_; but we always preferred the former, as +the horses had the hill work while fresh, and then the level home. +In the first instance we found this track by accident. We had +passed through Jurancon, and at the spot where the road forks +debated which to take, finally deciding on the left one, but this +we only followed for a few yards, taking again the first turning to +the right, which brought us over the railway line direct to the +hills. Winding up through the trees, we passed a tricyclist pushing +his machine before him, who informed us that we were on the way to +Gan. Of this, after we had ridden up and down, wound round +hillsides and passed through pleasant dingles, we were at length +assured by descending into that village, from which we got safely +home in spite of a "bolting" attempt on the part of one of the +"fiery" steeds. + +To thoroughly enjoy the longer drive to Pietat it is better to make +a picnic of it. We started about ten one lovely morning, turning to +the left beyond Jurancon, crossing the line to Oloron--on the main +road--and later on, bearing more round in the same direction, and +beginning to ascend. As on the hills to Gan, we were perpetually +mounting only to descend a great part of the distance again, but +ever and anon catching glimpses of the valley in which Assat and +Nay lay, and of Pau itself, besides the lovely snow hills +stretching as far as eye could reach. When Pietat was arrived at, +there was but little to interest us in what we saw there of a half- +finished church and two cottages; but the view on all sides after +we had walked along the grassy plateau was very lovely, especially +as the lights and shades were everywhere so perfect. Having +selected a cosy spot and spread the luncheon, we were besieged by +children anxious to sell us flowers and apples, and to share +whatever we would give them. They were hard to get rid of even with +promises of something when we had finished, and when at last they +did go, an elderly female took their place with most generous +offers of unlocking the church for us. There was an old sweet-toned +bell in front of the western door, and a half-finished sculpture of +the "Descent from the Cross" over it. The interior of the edifice +was sufficiently roofed for a portion to be utilised for prayer, +and the high altar and two lateral ones were already erected. + +After culling a quantity of the beautiful feather moss from the +hedgerows, we re-entered the carriage, and descended the hill into +the Gave valley, crossing the suspension-bridge by Assat, and +through the village into the main road, and home by Bizanos. It was +the time of the carnival, and on the following day Bizanos--which +has an evil repute for bad egg-throwing on festive occasions--was +to be the scene of the mumming. Luckily they did not attempt to +practise on us, though as we drove up through the town we met bands +of gaily-dressed individuals parading the streets. + +These bands consisted of about thirty, mostly men decked in a +preponderance of red, white, and blue, and usually accompanied by a +tableau arrangement on a cart. Every twenty yards they stopped, +went through a series of antics, supposed to be country dances, to +the tune of the cornet and a fiddle, and then brought round the +hat, frequently embracing any woman who objected to give her sous. + +A carnival such as this combines a holiday with money-making to the +mummers, and as long as they can get money in this fashion, they +certainly cannot be blamed for taking their amusement in such a +highly practical manner. + +There are several private coaches at Pau, which turn out in grand +style on race days; and balls, concerts, and kettledrums abound, +with private theatricals occasionally. We attempted to get up "Poor +Pillicoddy," but were very unlucky about it. Firstly, when in full +rehearsal, our Mrs. O'Scuttle became unwell, and we had to look for +another, and when we had found her and were getting into shape +again, her nautical husband put the whole ship on the rocks and +wrecked our hopes by losing his voice. + +However, our departure was very nigh, and packing is an excellent +cure for disappointment, though we were interrupted in that one +morning with a request to write "something" in the visitors' book. +With the memories of our pleasant stay upon us, we do not think we +can err in reproducing one contribution, which was styled + +"IDYLLIC COLBERT." + +(_With apologies to_ Mr. W. S. GILBERT.) + + If you're anxious for to dwell in a very fine hotel + By the mountain's wide expanse, + You at once had best repair to that house so good though + _chere_ + Called the "Grand Hotel de France." + Or if for food your craze is, you still can give your praises + To the _chef_ of its cuisine_. + Your taste you need not fetter, for 'tis said in Pau, no better + Has ever yet been seen. + But this I have to say, you will not like your stay + As much as if at Pension Colbert you the time had spent, + And such a time, I'm very sure, you never would repent. + + If I'm eloquent in praise of those most peculiar days + Which now have passed away, + 'Tis to tell you, as a man, what awful risks I ran + Lest my heart should chance to stray. + I never would pooh-pooh! 'tis cruel so to do, + Though often weak and ill, + For they my plaints would stop, with a juicy mutton-chop, + Or a mild and savoury pill! + And this I have to say, you're bound to like your stay, + And never in your life I'm very sure will you repent + The time in Pension Colbert's walls and well-trimmed + garden spent. + + And if a tantalizing passion of a gay lawn tennis fashion + Should fire your love of sport, + On the neat and well-kept lawn, a net that's _never_ torn + Hangs quiv'ring o'er the court. + Or if your voice you'd raise in sweet or high-tun'd lays, + You'll find a piano there, + And _birdies_ too will sing, like mortals--that's a thing + You'll never hear elsewhere-- + And then you're bound to say that you have liked your stay, + And never in your life I'm very sure will you repent + The time in Pension Colbert's walls and well-trimm'd + garden spent. + + If for hunting you've a liking, you can don a costume striking, + And proceed to chase the fox. + Or if you're fond of driving, _perhaps_ by some contriving + You may mount a coach's box. + If picnics are your pleasure, you can go to them at leisure, + And lunch on sumptuous fare, + And though maybe, perforce, you'll get lamb without mint + sauce. + They never starve you there. + And always you will say, that you've enjoyed your stay, + And never in your life I'm very sure will you repent + The time in Pension Colbert's walls and well-trimm'd + garden spent. + +As Mrs. and Miss Blunt and Mr. Sydney had definitely decided to +spend the time at Biarritz while I stayed at Bigorre, I turned my +attention to discovering if any other acquaintances were proceeding +in the same direction as myself. In this I was successful, and in +company with Mr. H---- and his two daughters, and Mrs. Willesden +and Miss Leonards, bade "au revoir" to Pau, with the prospect of a +long spell of beautiful scenery if the clerk of the weather could +only be controlled, by longings and hopes. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +BAGNERES DE BIGORRE. + +Backward Spring--Hotel Beau Sejour--Effect of the war of '70 on the +English Colony--The "Coustous"--The Church of St. Vincent-- +Geruzet's Marble Works--Donkeys--Up the Monne--Bains de Sante-- +Bains de Grand Pre--Salut Avenue and Baths--"Ai-ue, Ai-ue"-- +Luncheon--Daffodils--The Summit and the View--The "Castle-Mouly"-- +The Tapere--Mde. Cottin--Mont Bedat--Gentians--The Croix de Manse-- +"The Lady's Farewell to her Asinine Steed"--Market-day--The Old +Iron and Shoe Dealers--Sunday--A Cat Fight--The English Church--To +the Col d'Aspin--"The Abbe's Song"--Baudean--Campan, its People and +Church--Wayside Chapels--Ste. Marie--The route to Gripp, &c.-- +Payole--The Pine Forest--The Col d'Aspin--The View from the Monne +Rouge--"The Plaint of the Weather-beaten Pine"--The Menu at Payole +--Hurrah for the Milk!--Departures--Divine Music--Aste--Gabrielle +d'Estrelle--The Ivied Ruins--The Church--Pitton de Tournefort-- +Gerde--The Pigeon Traps--The Cattle Market--The Jacobin Tower-- +Theatre--Grand Etablissement des Thermes--Hospice Civil--Eglise des +Carmes--Mount Olivet--Madame Cheval, her Cakes and Tea--Bigorre in +Tears. + + +We had a bright day for our journey to Bigorre, and the country +looked pretty, though very backward for April, but this was owing +to the late frosts, which had been felt everywhere. Bigorre itself +was no exception, and instead of all the charms of spring ready to +welcome us, the leaves were only just taking courage to unfurl. Our +first impressions were consequently anything but favourable, though +our comfortable quarters in the Hotel Beau Sejour compensated us to +a certain degree. To the French and Spaniards, Bigorre is only a +summer resort, but as it is considered to possess a very mild +climate, many English reside there all the year round. In fact, +before the war of 1870 there was quite an English colony there, but +the chance of a Prussian advance dispersed it, and many were the +hardships endured by some of those who had stayed to the last +moment, in their endeavours to reach the coast. + +Our first two days were more or less wet, and by reports of heavy +snowstorms around us, we were unanimously of opinion that we had +come too early. However, with a little sun the place soon began to +look more cheerful, and a few days' fine weather wrought quite a +change. + +The hotel looks down on the Place Lafayette and the commencement of +the avenue known as the "Coustous." This name puzzled us! We tried +to find its derivation in French, without success, and Greek and +German were no better. Latin seemed to solve the difficulty with +the word "Custos," since it is said that the ancient guardians of +the town formerly marched up and down beneath these fine old trees; +so we decided to hunt no further but to translate "Coustous" into +the "Guards' Walk." Having settled that knotty point, we took a +stroll in the avenue, and later, paid a visit to the parish church +of St. Vincent which is close by. It is particularly chaste inside, +some portions dating from the 14th century, but the 15th and 16th +have each had a share in the construction. Some of the altars are +made of fine Pyrenean marble, and the Empress Eugenie is said to +have given the wooden image of the Virgin on the pedestal. + +As the various marbles obtained in the vicinity are exceedingly +interesting, and in many cases very beautiful, a very pleasant +half-hour can be spent at one of the many marble works which the +town possesses. Fired with this idea ourselves, one gloomy day +after lunch we sallied from the hotel, down the road to the left of +the church, through the public gardens, and--attracted by the +marble pillar--down the lane to the right of it, which at length +brought us to the works of Monsieur Geruzet. The huge blocks of the +rough stone were first inspected, then we saw the various processes +of cutting, ornamenting and polishing, and finally were ushered +into the showroom, where all kinds of articles from a sleeve-stud +to a sideboard were on sale. The cigar-trays and letterweights were +most reasonable, but it is not necessary to buy at all--and +gratuities are not supposed to be permitted. + +There were some fine turn-outs in the donkey line which deserve +notice, the peculiarity of these animals here being, to go where +they are wanted, and even to trot about it. Looking out of the +window one morning, we were immediately attracted by the tiniest of +donkeys galloping across the "place" with two big men behind it; +and later on in the day, a neat specimen of the same tribe passed +down the "Coustous," dragging a small dogcart, almost completely +filled by the form of a French female, two or three times as large +as her donkey. + +But like other things, the "genus asininus" is very variable, +almost as much so as the barometer, and those "on hire" for riding +purposes were quite as obstinate as their relations in other +countries; at least so the ladies declared who tried them, and they +ought to know. Their bitter experience was gained in a trip up the +Monne, the highest mountain in the immediate vicinity, being 2308 +feet above Bigorre, or 4128 above the sea. Our party was seven in +all, supplemented by a broken-winded and coughing horse (called +Towser; French, _Tousseux_), two very obstinate donkeys, and a +particularly polite donkey boy. Add to these, three luncheon- +baskets and various sticks, umbrellas, and parasols, and the +cavalcade is complete. We left the hotel and passed up the Coustous +in rather mixed order, which improved as we turned into the Rue +d'Alsace, and leaving the Great Bathing Establishment [Footnote: +Grand Etablissement de Thermes.] and French Protestant Church on +the right, and the Baths of Sante and Grand Pre on the left, +entered the "Salut" avenue, which in due time brought us to the +baths of the same name. The ascent, which by the road is most +circuitous and easy, commences from thence. But though easy, the +donkeys did not attempt to conceal their dislike for the work at a +very early stage, and when the blasting in the quarries was hushed, +"the voice of the charmer" (i.e. donkey boy) might have been heard, +painfully resembling the sounds made by the traveller with his head +over the vessel's side, urging them on, "Ai-ue--Ai-ue." As we +rounded the last of the minor peaks, "the keen demands of appetite" +were not to be resisted; so on a nice green plateau, with the +object of our desires in full view, we discussed the luncheon. +Shawls were spread, plates handed round, bottles gurglingly +uncorked, and chicken and "pate de foie gras" distributed until +everyone was steadily at work. The mountain air seemed to affect +the "vin ordinaire"; everyone averred it was as good as "Margaux," +while the chicken was voted delicious, and the pate superb. + +This important business over, a start was again made, and though +the donkeys were still obstinate, we managed to make progress. +Daffodils were growing in profusion as we neared the summit, making +the hill crest seem crowned with gold. At last, after one or two +nasty narrow bits of path, barely affording sufficient footing for +the animals, we gained the top, anxious to enjoy the view. +Unhappily, the tips of the highest peaks were hidden in the clouds, +but the general view was excellent, so we endeavoured to be +content. With our backs to Bigorre, we had the Pic du Midi (9440 +ft.) and the Montaigu (7681 ft.) right before us, with the small +Val de Serris and the finer Val de Lesponne beneath. More to the +left, the continuation of the Campan Valley leading to Luchon, in +which, as far as Ste. Marie, the route is visible. On the extreme +left lay the four villages of Gerde, Aste, Baudean and Campan, with +the Pene de l'Heris (5226 ft.) and the Ordincede rearing above +them. Looking in the direction of Bigorre, we could see on our +right the trees fringing the hills above Gerde, and known as the +Palomieres; and slightly to the left Lourdes and its lake, with the +entrance to the Argeles valley further round in the same direction +and close to the wooded hill known as the Castel Mouly (3742 ft.). +The Tapere (a small stream) flows from this last-named hill into a +narrow glen, on the left side of which Madame Cottin wrote the +"Exiles of Siberia." The hill above, known as "Mont Bedat," and +surmounted with a statue of the Virgin, is a favourite walk from +the town, the ascent for a moderate walker taking about forty-five +minutes. + +After twenty minutes to enjoy this panorama we began the descent on +the Castel-Mouly side, and were very soon forced to make short and +sometimes slippery cuts, to avoid the banks of snow lying in the +path. We easily managed to strike the proper path again, however, +and soon found ourselves at our "luncheon plateau." We now bore +along to the left, finding several large gentians, and gradually, +by dint of short cuts, we reached the Croix de Manse--a plateau +where four roads meet. Taking the one leading from the Bedat, we +were soon deposited at the hotel in safety. + +The ladies were inexpressibly glad to give up their donkeys, and +Miss Leonards considered her experiences so bitter as to wish them +to be handed down to posterity under the title of + +"THE LADY'S FAREWELL TO HER ASININE STEED." + + My donkey steed! my donkey steed! that standest slyly by, + With thy ill-combed mane and patchy neck--thy brown and + cunning eye, + I will not mount the Monne's height, or tread the gentle + mead + Upon thy back again: oh slow and wretched donkey steed! + + The sun may rise, the sun may set, but ne'er again on thee, + Will I repeat the sorry ride from which at length I'm free; + I'd sooner walk ten thousand times, though walking would + be vain, + Than ever mount, my donkey steed, upon thy back again. + + Perchance in _nightmare's_ fitful dreams thou'lt amble into + sight, + Perchance once more thy cunning eye will turn on me its + light. + Again I'll raise my parasol--_in vain_--to make thee speed, + A parasol is nought to thee, my wretched donkey steed. + + 'Twas only when at my request some kindly hand would + chide, + Or sharply thrust a pointed stick against thy shaggy side, + That the slow blood that in thee runs would quicken once + again, + For though my parasol I broke, my efforts _still_ were vain. + + Did I ill use thee? Surely not! such things could never be! + Although thou wentest slowest when I fain would haste to + tea. + Creeping at snail's pace only--while I couldn't make thee + learn + That donkeys' legs were never made to stop at ev'ry turn. + + At ev'ry turn!--such weary work--I knew not what to do: + Oh nevermore!--no, nevermore!--would I that ride renew. + How very wide thy jaws were kept--how far thrown back + thine ears, + As though to make me think thee ill and fill my soul with + fears. + Safe and unmounted will I roam with stately step alone, + No more to feel, on thee, such pains and aches in ev'ry bone: + And if I rest beside a well, perchance I'll pause and think, + How even if I'd brought thee there, I couldn't make thee + drink. + + I couldn't even make thee move! Away, the ride is o'er! + Away! for I shall rue the day on which I see thee more! + They said thou wert so meek and good, and I'm not over + strong, + I took their _kind_ advice, but oh! their _kind_ advice was + _wrong._ + + Who said I'd gladly give thee up? Who said that thou + were old? + 'Tis true! 'tis true! my donkey steed! and I alas was _sold._ + With joy I see thy form depart--that form which ne'er again + Shall bear me up the mountain-side and fill my soul with + pain. + +After such a potent warning posterity will doubtless avoid "donkey +steeds" altogether. + +Saturday is the great market-day of the week, and not only then is +the "Place de Strasbourg," at the end of the "Rue du Centre," well +crowded, but even--as happens on no other day--the Place Lafayette, +in front of the hotel, and the top of the Coustous as well. The +first-named is the fruit, flower, and vegetable market; the second, +the grain and potato; and the third, the iron and old shoe market. +The amount and variety of old iron and cast-off shoes exposed for +sale is astonishing. And if the vendors were given to crying their +wares they might indulge in something like the following--of course +translated:-- + + "Now who's for an 'upper,' a 'heel,' or a 'sole'? + This way for some fine rusty chain! + The sum of ten halfpence will purchase the whole, + And surely you cannot complain! + + "Just glance at this slipper, whose fellow is lost; + Here's a boot that was only worn thrice; + A hammer, your honour, at half what it cost; + I'm sure that's a reasonable price." + +The curious characters loafing, begging, buying and selling, quite +defy description, though the resemblance of many to the ape tribe +was conspicuous. One ancient individual, presiding over an +"umbrella hospital," presented an interesting spectacle surrounded +by _adult_ shoe-blacks whose trade did not appear to be too +lucrative. + +Sunday is usually a very quiet day out of the season, but on our +first Sunday morning the Place de Strasbourg was the scene of a +real cat-fight. The combatants quite tabooed spitting and +scratching, and went to work with their teeth. After a few squeaks +and a great deal of rolling in the dust, a magnanimous dog appeared +on the scene, and after separating them, pursued the victor down +the street. The rest of the day, as usual, passed peacefully, and +the pleasant services in the pretty little English Church were much +enjoyed. It is situated near Dussert and Labal's marble works, just +off the Rue des Pyrenees, leading to Campan, about a hundred yards +beyond the Coustous, and is reached by crossing a small wooden +bridge. + +Monday broke very fine, and as the market people had notified that +the Col d'Aspin was now open, we made up a party of ten, just +filling two landaus, for this fifteen-mile drive. We did not start +till eleven, and by that time the clouds had commenced to show +themselves, but hoping for better things, we went ahead. Following +the Campan road, we soon left Gerde and the Palomieres above it, in +the distance, and in a few moments the village of Aste as well. A +little further on we met a barouche, lolling back in which sat a +priest. His hands were clasped o'er his breast, his spectacled eyes +were fixed upwards, and judging by the expression of his mouth and +the movement of his lips, he was endeavouring to put some pleasant, +self-contented thoughts into words. We took the liberty of guessing +what he was saying, and set it down as + +"THE ABBE'S SONG." + + Oh! I am an Abbe, an Abbe am I, + And I'm fond of my dinner and wine. + Some say I'm a sinner, but that I deny, + And I never am heard to repine. + 'Tis said what a pity I can't have a wife, + But I'm saved from the _chance_ of all naggings and strife, + While in my barouche I can ride where I will, + Feeling life not half bad, though the world may be ill. + + I always wear glasses, but that's to look sage, + And not 'cause my eyesight is dim, + For when sweet maids I view of a loveable age, + I contrive to look over the rim. + And when I'm alone with the glass at my lips, + I am ready to swear, as I pause 'twixt the sips, + That as long as the world does not hamper my will, + I think I can manage to live in it still. + +A short distance before reaching Baudean a road strikes to the +right up the Vallon de Serris, and a short distance beyond, +another, in the same direction, strikes up the Vallee de Lesponne, +_en route_ for the Lac Bleu (6457 ft.) and the Montaigu (7681 ft.). +When Baudean and its quaint old church were left in our rear, and +we were nearing Campan, we witnessed a fierce struggle between a +young bull-calf and a native. The calf objected very strongly to +the landaus, and wished to betake itself to the adjacent country to +avoid them. To this the native very naturally objected in turn, and +a struggle was the result, in which the calf was worsted and +reduced to order. + +Campan is a curious old town, with a quaint marketplace, whose roof +rests on well-worn stone pillars. Turning a corner, we came on a +somewhat mixed collection of men, women, oxen, and logs of wood. +The French flag was fixed against a tree, and painted on a board +underneath it were the familiar words, "debit de tabac," with an +arrow or two pointing round the corner, but no tobacco shop was in +sight. + +The peasants thronged the windows as we drove down the street, but +the greater number were weird and decrepit females, with faces like +the bark of an ancient oak-tree. + +The old church, which stands near the market-place is well worth a +visit. Passing under an archway on the right side of the road, we +entered a court-yard, in which stands a marble statue erected in +honour of the late cure, and on the right of this is the entrance +into the church. + +After leaving Campan the road ascends slightly through several +small hamlets, each possessing a proportionately small chapel at +the wayside, till Ste. Marie (2965 ft.) is reached. Here the road +bifurcates, the branch to the right leading to Gripp, Tramesaigues, +the Col du Tourmalet, and Bareges; the branch to the left, along +which we continued, to the Col d'Aspin, Arreau, Borderes, Col de +Peyresourde (5070 ft.), and Luchon (2065 ft.). From Ste. Marie the +grandeur of the scenery increases. Besides the Montaigu and the Pic +du Midi on the right, on the left are the Pene de l'Heris (5226 +ft.) and the Crete d'Ordincede (5358 ft. about), with their wooded +crests uplifted above the range of lower hills, dotted with the +huts of the shepherds. Still ascending slightly, we passed Payole +(3615 ft.), where a head thrust out of the window of the Hotel de +la Poste showed us it was at any rate occupied, and as we drove +past at a good pace, visions of a pleasant tea rose before us. + +[Illustration: THE PINE FOREST NEAR THE COL D'ASPIN.] + +We were soon mounting the zigzags through the splendid pine woods, +and enjoyed the delicious glimpses down the deep moss-grown glades, +with the scent of the rising sap in our nostrils. The glimpses on +the mountains up and down the road were very felicitous also. On +emerging from the forest the road was rather narrow for the +carriage for several yards, the snow being two to three feet deep +on either side, but as soon as this was passed, another three- +quarter mile of open driving brought us to the Col d'Aspin (4920 +ft.). The view from this spot is very fine, but to really enjoy the +scenery to the fullest extent, we mounted the crest on the left, +called the Monne Rouge (5759 ft.), and were well rewarded. +Although, as too often happens, the highest peaks were in the mist, +we could see the whole extent of the valleys, and the tops of the +lower mountains. The range of sight is magnificent; the Maladetta +(10,866 ft.) only just visible to the east, the huge Posets (11,047 +ft.) standing out frowningly to the south-south-east, as well as +the Pez (10,403 ft.) and the Clarabide (10,254 ft. about), and many +others. While not only the valley of Seoube, just passed through, +and the valley of Aure, in which Arreau lies, are visible, but to +the northwest even the plain of the Garonne as well. As the clouds +were gradually obscuring the scene, we made our way at a smart pace +through the pines back towards the inn at Payole. One weather- +beaten old fir, hung with lichen, devoid of all its former garb of +green, seemed to appeal to us for pity; we noticed it both when +ascending and descending, and its misery at dying when all the +trees around were growing anew, we have set down as + +"THE PLAINT OF THE WEATHER-BEATEN PINE." + + Behold I stand by the Aspin road, an old and worn-out Pine, + The years I cannot recollect that make this life of mine: + The snows have fallen o'er my crest, the winds have whistled + high, + For tens of years the winter's frost I managed to defy; + But now the fiat has gone forth, the flame of life is dead, + And nevermore I'll feel the storms that beat about my head. + + I've watch'd the carriage travellers pass so gaily on their + way, + I've heard the capercailzie's note at early dawning grey; + But now, alas! my doom is sealed, I have not long to wait, + For when the axe has laid me low the fire will be my fate. + Farewell to sun, farewell to storm, to birds and travellers all, + --Oh sad to think that one so great should have so great a + fall! + +As some of the party had gone on earlier, we found the table spread +when we reached the Inn de la Poste; and after a warm at the +kitchen fire proceeded to discuss the repast, of which the +following is the _menu_:-- + +MENU. + + * * * * * + +SOUP. + +Tea._ + +FISH. + +Cold Minnows. + +ROASTS. + +Remains of Cold Chicken. Remains of Pate de Foie Gras. + +COLD. + +Household _Bread_--very sour. + +MADE DISH. + +_Butter._ + +SWEETS. + +Sponge Biscuits. + +DESSERT. + +Apples and Oranges. + +WINES AND LIQUEURS. + +Vin Ordinaire, Water with very little Whisky, Kirschwasser. + +We were unable to procure any addition to our meal from the +innkeeper, except sour bread and sugar. Our tea had to be drank +without milk, as the cow had gone for a stroll up the mountain and +was out of reach of the post-office. Having suggested to our host +that a telegram might be of use, he disappeared grinning, and in +about ten minutes the servant entered with a bottle containing the +precious liquid. The shout of joy that rose to the rafters rather +startled the quiet female, but it was spontaneous, not to be +suppressed, and told of a happy finish to our not over sumptuous +tea. + +The drive from thence home was decidedly chilly, but nothing +exciting happened, though occasional glimpses of the snow peaks +were enjoyed, and many fine specimens of the genus bovus, dragging +carts laden with trees (or all that remained of them), were passed +by the way. + +The entire excursion occupied six hours and a half. + +A few days afterwards our sociable circle at the hotel was much +reduced, and among others the Clipper family departed. We missed +Mr. Clipper greatly, for though bearing strong evidence to Darwin's +theory about the face, he was a chatty companion and capital +"raconteur," while his facility for remembering names, even of +places visited in his youngest days, was really remarkable. + +Nor could we easily spare the four sylph-like Misses Clipper, for +with them vanished all hopes of delicious music in the evening. Ah, +that was music! The way they played together the "Taking of Tel-el- +Kebir" took us by storm. The silent march through the dead of +night, the charge, the cheers, the uncertain rifle fire, and then +the thunder of the cannon was so effective, that the landlord rose +in haste from his dinner, and anxiously inquired if the pier-glass +had fallen through the piano; reassured, he went back to his meal, +but whether the "taking of the redoubt," or the "pursuit of the +fugitives," or even the capital imitation of the bagpipes--which +followed in due course--interfered with his digestion (it might +have been a regard for his piano), we never learnt, but his face +showed unmistakable signs of annoyance for the rest of the evening. + +The next morning--which was Saturday--Miss Leonards, Mrs. +Willesden, and myself took a walk to the villages of Aste and +Gerde. They lie on the opposite side of the river Adour, and are +within an easy walk. The market people were coming in a continuous +stream along the Campan road, some in long carts crowded sardine- +like, some in traps, some on donkeys, but the majority on foot. We +stopped two of the most crowded carts and asked them to make room +for us. The inmates of the former took it as a joke and drove off +chuckling; but those in the second took the matter-of-fact view and +began squeezing about, till, having a space of about four inches by +three, one man said he thought they could manage; however, not +wishing to "sit familiar," we thanked him, but declined to trouble +him any further. + +The first bridge over the river, built of stone, leads to Gerde and +Aste, but we preferred to take the longer route, which continues +along the Campan road, till, after passing several smaller wooden +bridges, it turns to the left between two houses over an iron +bridge, and strikes straight into Aste. Before entering the town we +glanced over in the direction of Campan, and caught a fine glimpse +of the Houn Blanquo (6411 ft.), and the Pic du Midi, with a bit of +the Montaigu. Aste is interesting, formerly a fief of the Grammont +family; it has been associated with not a few celebrated +characters, and though that does not enhance the value of the +surrounding property (since the Grammont estate is now in the +market), yet of course it renders the village more worthy of a +visit. + +The picturesque and ivy-covered ruin is all that remains of the +feudal castle where Gabrielle d'Estrelle [Footnote: So the oldest +inhabitant said!] lived and loved, and whither the renowned Henry +IV. (the object of that love) came over from his castle at Pau on +frequent visits. + +The church, with its Campan marble porch, is celebrated for the +image of the Virgin which it contains, and which is greatly +reverenced in the neighbourhood. + +Aste was honoured with a long visit from Pitton de Tournefort, a +celebrated French naturalist, and the fact is commemorated by an +engraved tablet affixed to the house in which he passed his nights. + +The tablet is on the left-hand side of the main street (going +towards Gerde), and the inscription--which is in verse--runs as +follows:-- + +"Pitton de Tournefort dans cet humble reduit, +De ses fatigues de jour se reposait la nuit. +Lorsqu' explorant nos monts qu'on ignorait encore, +Ce grand homme tressait la couronne de flore." + +MDCCCXXXII. M.B. + +Which might be translated-- + +"Pitton de Tournefort when tired for the day, +In this hole made his bed, on a shakedown of hay. +Our hills, long despised, he was pleased to explore, +And we thank him for lib'rally paying the score!" + +1832. + +Taking the path leading to the right, we managed by dint of a +little wading to reach Gerde, a village possessing little internal +interest besides the neat church, but otherwise known to fame from +the "palomieres," or pigeon-traps, worked between the trees which +fringe the hills above it. During the autumn, when the pigeons are +migrating, huge nets are spread between the trees, and on the approach +of a flock, men, perched in a lofty "crow's nest," throw out a large +wooden imitation of a hawk, at the sight of which the pigeons dip in +their flight and rush into the nets, which--worked on the pulley +system--immediately secure them. There are three species taken in the +traps: the wood pigeon, the ringed wood pigeon, and the wild dove. + +Leaving Gerde by the principal thoroughfare, we came back to +Bagneres by the Toulouse road, passing the Cattle Market--held in a +triangular space shaded with trees--on the left; and the Geruzet +Marble Works, and later the Parish Church, on the right. + +[Illustration: PALOMIERES DE GERDE.] + +With the exception of the baths or Thermes, we did not find many +places of interest in the town. The old Jacobin tower, surmounted +by a clock, in the Rue de l'Horloge, is all that remains of a +convent built in the 15th century, but is in a good state of +preservation. The theatre is part of what was formerly the "Chapel +of St. John," used by the Templars. The porch over the doorway was +erected in the 13th century, and is of the Transition style, +utterly incongruous to the use now made of it; but this kind of +sacrilege is unhappily now becoming of common occurrence! Leaving +the theatre, in a short space we were in the "Place des Thermes," +where the New Casino is being built among the shrubs on the right. +The "Grand Etablissement," which occupies the centre of the +"Place," contains seven different springs, and there is another in +the circular building outside, the latter being only used for +drinking purposes. On the first floor of the building are the +library (to the left), the geological room (in the centre), and the +picture gallery (to the right). The corridors leading to the first +and last are panelled with good specimens of the Pyrenean marbles, +and in the same room with the pictures is a supposed model of a +section of the Pyrenees--anybody gaining any information from it +deserves a prize. + +To the left of this establishment stands the "Hospice Civil," a +fine building in grey stone. + +The Carmelite Church, on the left of the road leading to Mount +Olivet, where several pleasant villas are situated, is now closed, +the "order" having been dispersed two years ago; so nothing is to +be seen there of interest except the sculpture representing the +"miracle of the loaves" over the door. + +One institution must not be forgotten, viz, the afternoon tea or +coffee at Madame Cheval's. This good lady presides over a +confectioner's shop opposite the end of the Hotel (Beau Sejour), in +the Rue du Centre. Her cakes and coffee are good, and, thanks to +our enlightened instructions, anyone taking some tea to her can +have it properly made, and be provided with the necessary adjuncts +for enjoying it; cream even being attainable if ordered the +previous day. We spent many a pleasant half-hour there, and can +well recommend others to follow our example. + +Towards the end of the month Mr. H---- and his daughters moved on +to Luchon, as their time was limited; and the last week saw the +departure of Mrs. Willesden and Miss Leonards for England, whereat +Bigorre was as tearful and miserable as a steady downpour could +make it. I had serious thoughts of moving on to Luchon for two or +three days myself, and a driver who had brought two men thence over +the Col d'Aspin, offered to take me back for twenty francs, but +learning next day that there were five feet of snow on the Col, and +that Luchon was wretchedly cold, I decided to wait till later on, a +decision in no way regretted. + +Although during the latter part of our stay the weather was +agreeable, and the influence of spring manifest, I was not sorry +when the day for moving forward arrived, and though Madame Cheval, +when I broke the news to her over my solitary cup of coffee, looked +as concerned as she could, and murmured something to the effect +that "all her customers were going away," yet with the assurance +that some day soon a party of us would pay her a visit, she managed +to smile again! + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +LOURDES. + +The Journey to Tarbes--The Buffet and the Nigger--Lourdes Station +in the Wet--Importunate "Cochers"--Hotel des Pyrenees--"Red tape" +and Porters--Lourdes in Sunshine--Sightseeing--The "Rue de la +Grotte"--"The Cry of the Lourdes Shopkeepers"--Candle-sellers--The +Grotto--Abject Reverence--The Church--St. Bernard--Interior of +Church--The Panorama--Admirable Effect--Rue du Fort--The Castle-- +The View from the Tower--Pie de Mars, or Ringed Ousels. + + +The railway run from Bigorre to Lourdes is by no means a long one, +the actual distance being only twenty-six and a quarter miles, and +actual time in the train about one and a half hours, but the break +at Tarbes considerably prolongs it. + +The early morning had been wet, and showers continued till the +afternoon, but the sun condescended to come out as the train wound +slowly out of the station, and the lights and shades up the valley +and hillsides were delightful. Having the anticipatory pleasure of +meeting Mrs. and Miss Blunt and Mr. Sydney again at Lourdes; and a +lovely view of the beauties of spring when I looked out of the +window, the time did not take long to pass. One particularly pretty +bit of meadow, trees, and stream led to the building of an airy +castle, which the sudden appearance of the spires and roofs of +Tarbes--suggesting the return to bustle and the haunts of men--soon +banished, and the arrival in the station and the necessary change +eradicated completely. + +Thirty-five minutes to wait. Too little to see the town, too much +for twiddling one's thumbs. Then what? Glorious inspiration! The +Buffet! Capital; and into the Buffet I accordingly went. Seated at +a table, a nigger, slightly white about the finger tips, but +otherwise quite genuine--no Moore and Burgess menial--appeared to +do my bidding. "What would Monsieur take? Cafe?"--"Oui." "Cafe noir +ou cafe au lait?" I decided on taking the coffee with milk, adding +that anything in the biscuit line would not be amiss, and away he +went grinning. He soon returned with cakes and coffee, and by dint +of taking my time I had barely finished when it was time to start. + +Again I managed to secure a carriage to myself, but this time it +proved a very badly coupled one which jolted considerably. Lourdes +was reached in a wretched drizzle, and the benefit conferred on +passengers by having the station _quite_ free from any covering +whatever, was _apparent_ to all. A sudden activity on the part of +the "cochers" to entrap me to their respective (but by no means +necessarily respectable) hotels, as I emerged from the station-- +which proved useless--and I was jolting onward to the Hotel des +Pyrenees. When arrived, inspected rooms, ordered fires and dinner, +and whiled away an hour till it was time to repair again to the +station, to meet Mrs. and Miss Blunt and Mr. Sydney, "Red tape"-ism +dominant there, as it is everywhere in France. In fact, "red tape" +is the French official's refuge. Whenever a system is weak or +underhand, they seek protection behind a maze of stupidity and +fuss. I wanted to see the station-master, to obtain permission to +perambulate the platform till the arrival of the train. No porter +would bestir himself to find this great official, but whichever way +I turned one was always ready with his "Ou allez-vous, Monsieur?" +to which the only sensible reply would have been "Pas au ----, comme +vous," but silence and an utter indifference were better still, and +armed with these I ran the gauntlet of the pests, and finding the +"Chef de Gare" in his "bureau," at once received the desired +permission. There was not much time for perambulation, as the train +soon steamed in, though without Mr. Sydney, who was detained for a +day or two longer, and once more, but now a triangular party, we +jolted back to the hotel. The rest of the evening was passed with +dinner, and an endeavour to get warm; the rain and wind still +enjoying themselves without. + +[Illustration] + +However, with the morn all these miseries vanished, and the sun +shone from a blue sky flecked with a few films of snow. Lourdes +looked very charming under such auspices, and Miss Blunt availed +herself of the balmy air of the morning to wander round the stables +and garden with a speckled pointer and a Pyrenean puppy, between +which and the mountains her attention was divided, though the last +named had certainly the least of it. + +Then out we sallied to see the sights, which are more of quality +than quantity. Turning to the right from the hotel door, through +the Place de Marcadal, where the fountain was playing in delightful +imitation of the previous night's rain, we gained the commencement +of the Rue de la Grotte (which bears sharply to the left by the +Hotel de Paris), and followed its muddy ways with more or less +danger owing to absence of footpath, and presence of numerous +carriages. However, having passed the Hotel d'Angleterre and the +end of Rue du Fort (leading to the ancient castle), footpaths came +into view, but the joy of the discovery was much minimized at the +sight of the shops and shopkeepers, as the latter gave us no peace. +It was one ceaseless bother to buy, mostly in French; but one +damsel, confident of success assailed us in whining English, +running up and down before her wares, and seizing different objects +in quick succession, while continuing to praise their beauty and +cheapness. Every shop or stall we passed--and there were a good +many--had an inmate more or less importunate, but as what they had +to say was very similar, it can be all embodied in the following + +"CRY OF THE LOURDES SHOPKEEPERS." + +This way, if you please, miss; and madame, this way; +Kind sir, pause a moment, and see. +Oh! tell me, I beg, what's your pleasure to-day? +Pray enter--the entrance is free. + +Some candles? I've nice ones at half a franc each, +Or thirty centimes, if you will. +Some tins, each with lids fitted tight as a leech, +For you, with blest water to fill. + +And look at these beads, only forty centimes, +All carved, and most beautif'ly neat. +I've "charms" that will give you the sweetest of dreams, +And _benitiers_ lovely and sweet. + +A cross of pure ivory. Photographs too. +--No good?--You want nothing to-day?-- +Alas! what on earth must poor shopkeepers do? +Oh, kindly buy something, I pray! + +One candle? You must have _one_ candle to burn +When into the grotto you tread. +Not one? Not a little one? Onward you turn! +Bah! may miseries light on your head!! + +As soon as the shops were passed, and even before, women besieged +us with packets of candles, and it was with great difficulty we +made them understand the word No! Then, leaving the Hotels de la +Grotte and Latapie on the right, and the "Panorama" on the opposite +side, we wound down towards the river and the grotto. + +To us, it would be hard to conceive anything more pitiable or +repulsive than the scene which met our gaze as we passed at the +base of the church and came in full view of the grotto. An +irregular opening in the dull grey stone going back only a few +feet, with the moisture oozing over it here and there, and the ivy +and weeds adding picturesqueness to what would otherwise be +commonplace; in an elevated niche on the right, a figure of the +Virgin in white robes and blue sash; in front, on the left, a +covered marble cistern, with taps; and innumerable crutches and +candles, were all the unsuperstitious eye could see. But to those +poor wretches gathered round in prayer, influenced by the "light- +headed" dreams of a poor swineherd, the spot was the holiest of +holy ground. The abject reverence of their attitudes, the stand of +flaming and guttering candles, the worship and kissing of the rough +wet stones, the pious drinking of the cistern's water as they came +away--a few pausing to buy some "blest" token of their visit at the +adjacent shop--and the solemn silence that reigned over all, were +the chief features that made the scene one from which we were only +too glad to turn away. Taking the zigzag path among the pleasant +trees and shrubs, on the right, we soon reached the level of the +Gothic church, which we entered from the farther end. Ascending the +steps, the two statues on either side of the porch came in view, +but neither repaid a nearer inspection; St. Bernard, on the left, +looking about as dejected and consumptive as anyone, priest or +layman, well could. The church itself, from a Roman Catholic +standpoint, must be considered very fine, but the adoration of the +Virgin to the almost complete disregard of her subjection to "Our +Saviour" is most apparent. The windows and many of the altars are +beautiful, and so are many of the banners, while the high altar is +a great work of art; but the _unreligious_ tone that this striving +after effect produces, but without which the religion--or so-called +religion--would soon cease to exist, struck us as we entered, and +increased with every step. It was as if to say, "Look at these +lovely things, feast your eyes on them, and let their beauty be the +mainspring to inspire you with faith." There was no appeal to the +true religion of the soul, that springs from the heart in a clear +stream, and which no tinsel banners, no elaborate statues, and no +flaming candles, can quicken or intensify! + +Leaving the church by the high road, with the Convent and "Place," +--with its neat walks and grass plots,--on the left, we proceeded to +the "Panorama," where, our admiration having been tempered by the +payment of a franc each, we spent an enjoyable quarter of an hour. +The painting as a whole--representing Lourdes twenty-five years +ago--is most effective, and the effect is heightened by the +admirable combination with real earth, and grass, and trees. The +grouping of the figures round the grotto, representing the scene at +the eighteenth appearance of the Virgin to Bernadette--who is the +foremost figure kneeling in the grotto--is particularly fine; but +how that huge crowd standing there were content with Bernadette's +assertion that she saw the vision, when none of them saw anything +but the stones, is a practical question that few probably could +answer, and least of all the priests. [Illustration] Returning by +the way we had come, we bore up the Rue du Fort to inspect the old +castle--or all that remained of it--and enjoy the view. After some +two hundred yards of this narrow street, painfully suggestive, in +the vileness of its odours, of Canton's narrower thoroughfares, we +reached the steps leading up on the left, and commenced the ascent. +As it was, we did not find it very difficult work, though if a +rifle had been levelled from every slit in the two-foot walls, it +is probable that before _two_ of the nearly two hundred steps had +been surmounted, we would have been levelled also. Passing between +once impregnable walls (where English soldiers also passed in days +of yore), we crossed the now harmless-looking drawbridge and rang +the bell. A woman opened the door and requested us to enter, a +request which evidently met with the approbation of two diminutive +youngsters, whose faces were dimpled with smiles wherever the fat +would allow. Keeping along the right wall in the direction of the +pig-sties (O! shades of the Black Prince!!!) we were greeted with +the musical tones of the "porkers" and many _sweet_ odours. Having +entered one of the prisons at the base of the tower for a moment, +we next followed the ever-winding steps till fairly giddy, and +reached the top. Thence the view was exceedingly fine. We seemed to +be at the meeting-point of four valleys, and the snow peaks in the +direction of Argeles were free from clouds. The whole of Lourdes +lay like a map beneath; the church with the "Calvary" on the hill +over against it, the river sparkling in the sunlight, the Pic de +Jer with its brown sides, and the winding roads with the green +fields and budding trees, joining to make a pleasant picture. + +Descending again to the hotel, we partook of a capital lunch, of +which the "pie de mars," or ringed ousel--a bird of migratory +habits, little known in our isles (except in a few parts of +Scotland), but considered a great delicacy here--formed a part. +After this, Miss Blunt once again devoted herself to the Pyrenean +puppy, till the carriage came round and we took our departure. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +ARGELES. + +Road v. Rail--Scenes, sublime and ridiculous--Hotel d'Angleterre-- +Questions and "The Argeles Shepherd's Reply"--A forbidden path--The +ride to Ges, Serres, Salluz, and Ourous--Argeles church--Route +Thermale--Ges--The tree in the path--"A regular fix"--Serres--" +It's a stupid foal that doesn't know its own mother "--A frothing +stream--A fine view--Pigs in clover--Salluz--Ourous--Contented +villagers--The high road--The bridge on the Pierrefitte road-- +Advice to sketchers--"Spring's Bitters and Sweets"--The "witch of +the hills"--Large green lizards--"Jeannette's Lamb"--Round the +Argeles valley--Chateau de Beaucens--Villelongue--Soulom--The old +church--Hotel de la Poste, Pierrefitte--St. Savin--The verger and +the ancient church--Cagots--"The Organ's Tale"--St. Savin's tomb-- +The Chateau de Miramont--Jugged izard--Market-day--Sour bread and +the remedy--Arrival of the first parcel. + + +Although the railway line takes very nearly the same route as the +carriage road, the drive is decidedly preferable, and when it can +be undertaken for ten francs--as in our case--there is little to +choose between the modes of conveyance on the score of cheapness, +especially as a landau can carry a very fair quantity of luggage. +We considered ourselves amply repaid for our choice as we wound +underneath the rocky crags and by the side of the river, anon +ascending the curve of a small hill with the fresh fields below, a +little church or ivied ruin standing out on the mountain-side, and +high above all, the snowy summits so majestic and so intensely +white. There was occasionally a ridiculous side to the picture too, +when we put a flock of sheep in rapid motion in a wrong direction +and the luckless shepherd had to start in hot pursuit--using the +politest of language; or, again, when some natives on tiny donkeys +or skittish mules came by, their faces breaking into a respectful +grin as they wished us "bon jour." Skirting the railway line for a +short distance, we drove into Argeles rather unexpectedly, our ride +having seemed all too short. However, there was our hotel--the +Grand Hotel d'Angleterre (everything is grand now-a-days)--standing +boldly by the road, with the quaint, though poor-looking village +about it, and for another few days that was to be our abode. +[Illustration] This hotel, though possessing less of a reputation +than the Hotel de France, nevertheless commands a finer view on all +sides, and is a pleasanter abode on that account. The afternoon was +still young when we arrived, so as soon as we had stowed our +luggage we sallied out for a walk along the road to Pierrefitte. A +short way from the hotel, an old shepherd was standing in the +middle of the road leaning on his staff, with his flock of sheep +all round him, and the dog lolling idly on the grass. The tall +poplars by the roadside waking into life, the merry stream +meandering at their feet, and the back ground of mountains tipped +with snow, filled up the scene. We accosted the old man with a +good-day, and asked him several questions about the weather and +himself, all of which he answered in a genial way, and which strung +together made up + +"THE ARGELES SHEPHERD'S REPLY." + + Good-day, sir! The weather, sir; will it be wet? + You see, sir, I hardly can say, + We gen'rally know at the earliest dawn + What weather we'll have in the day; + But at night--in these mountains--I couldn't be sure, + And I'd rather not tell you, sir, wrong. + And yet, what does a day here or there make to you? + If it rains, 'twill be fine before long. + Have I always looked after the sheep, sir? Why, No! + I've served in the army, sir, sure. + Let me see--ah!--it's now thirty summers ago + Since those hardships we had to endure. + Ay, I fought with your soldiers 'mid bleak Russia's snow, + Half numb'd in the trenches I worked, + And suffered what few of you gents, sir, would know, + But somehow, we none of us shirked. + Was I wounded, sir? No, sir! thank Goodness for that, + Though I've seen some stiff fighting, 'tis true. + In Africa 'twasn't all sunshine and play, + And in Austria we'd plenty to do. + Do I like being a shepherd, sir, roaming the hills, + Just earning enough to buy bread? + Well, I wouldn't have cared all my days, for the ills + And the life that as soldier I led. + No, sir! no! though 'twas well enough then, Peace, you see, + Is the best when one's hair's turning grey! + Will I drink your good health, sir? Ay, proud I shall be, + And, thanking you kindly--Good-day!!! + +Strolling on, we soon reached the bridge over the River Gave +d'Azun, and leaving the old structure "whose glory has departed" on +the right, we crossed over and continued along the road for a short +distance, till we noticed a lane leading off to the left, which we +followed. This in time bore further round in the same direction and +suddenly ended at the entrance to a field. However, keeping +straight on, we came in view of the river's bank and to this we +kept, recrossing by the railway bridge below, and then back by the +fields home, completing a round none the less pleasant because a +captious critic might have called it trespassing. + +As lovely a ride or walk as can well be imagined, even by an +imagination as fertile as this lovely valley, passes by way of the +four villages of Ges, Serres, Salluz, and Ourous. Although the +weather was rather unsettled, we started one morning about 9.15, +and following the road towards Lourdes for about two hundred yards, +took the sharp turn to the left (with the telegraph wires) up into +the town. Gaining the church, we bore along to the right into the +open "Place," at the left corner of which the Route Thermale to +Eaux Bonnes and Eaux Chaudes begins. For about half a mile this was +our road also, but after that distance, the Ges route branched off +to the right, and the views of Argeles, and the rest of the valley +from it, as we wound upwards, were particularly lovely. The horses +were very fresh, having only lately been brought from the +mountains, after a winter of idleness, and they walked at a fast +pace fretting at any stoppage whatever, which they did not +endeavour to disguise, any more than their inclination to shy at +anything they possibly could. As far as Ges the way is easy to +follow, but it is wise to inquire frequently afterwards, as so many +equally important (this importance is decidedly on the negative +side) looking paths branch off in every direction. The good people +we saw in Ges, a village of thatched cottages looking the worse for +rain, said we should find the "road vile," but this did not daunt +us, and with a "bon jour" we passed on. We had not gone very far, +however, when to our dismay we saw a huge tree right across the +road. Our position was an awkward one. The road was rather narrow +and without any protection; there was only the steep hillside +above, and the steep hillside below. To go up was quite +impracticable, to go down was destruction! My horse approached the +impediment very quietly, and allowed me to break off several of the +worst branches, and then scramble by. Miss Blunt's horse came close +up to it as though intending to pass quietly, but, instead, wheeled +round on the extreme edge of the path in anything but a pleasant +fashion, either for the rider or the observer. [Illustration] +Dismounting and tying my steed to one of the branches on the near +side of the road, I held back as many of the others as possible, +and the horse came up quietly again, but repeated the disagreeable +business, still more dangerously. Having broken off several more, +and again pulled back the others, the skittish animal consented to +pass. But in passing he bent down a very pliant bough, which, when +released, flew back and hit my peaceful steed sharply on the legs. +For a few seconds his efforts to get free were--to put it mildly-- +unpleasantly severe, especially as he became with each effort more +entangled in the tree. When the reins were at length unknotted, he +quieted a little, and after being led a few yards, submitted to be +mounted very peaceably, and we descended, with the fresh leaves +above and below us, into Serres. Here we had occasion to remark +that "It's a stupid foal that doesn't know its own mother," as one +pretty little thing would persist in following our steeds, until a +sturdy "paysanne" turned it back. The correct route all this time +was the upper one (or that to the left), and we now came to a very +lovely bit, where two swift frothing streams dashed down beneath +the trees, near a small saw-mill. A fine view up the valley behind +us, to the snow peaks towering over the ruddy hill-tops, was +enjoyed, as we continued along the ascending and uneven path. In +the fields above, some shepherds were driving a flock of sheep, and +a woman, reposing under a huge blue gingham, was watching the +vigorous onslaught of several pigs in a small clover patch. A few +villagers, in their Sunday best, stood by the wayside discussing +some topic with languid interest, which they dropped, to wish us +"bon jour" and tell us the road. More lovely effects of light and +shade over the hills towards Pierrefitte, with filmy clouds +shrouding the tallest summits, and here and there a glimpse of the +blue sky, and we passed into the straggling hamlet of Salluz, after +which the path branched up--still to the left--through the trees. +Winding down again, we came to Ourous, to which apparently the +inhabitants from all the other villages had come, dressed in their +Sunday best, to mass. "Young men and maidens, old men and +children," women tottering with extreme age, were all assembled +round about the old church, looking contented and happy, smiling, +and wishing us a "bon jour" as we rode in a circular direction +through the village, till we reached a spot where the road forks, +the one to the right leading to Argeles, the one to the left to +Lourdes. The former looked so stony that we chose the other, and +had not gone very far before a smooth and broader path to the right +(from which a grand view of the whole valley opened before us) +brought us down to a few houses, between which we passed, and +reached the high-road. A good trot along this, by the side of the +railway line, and we were back at the hotel, convinced that the +badness of the road and all drawbacks were amply--and more than +amply--outweighed by the succession of beautiful scenery. + +Two walks, one ending in rather a scramble, branch off immediately +below the bridge, on the Pierrefitte road. The one we took, at a +respectable hour of the morning, which ascends the left side of the +mound, is the prettier by far, as it discloses lovely glimpses at +every turn. We followed it till it branched off in two directions +(the one to the left being the real continuation), but at this +point we turned off into a field, deep in grass and studded with +flowers, where some comfortable-looking boulders invited us to +rest. Miss Blunt,--whose soul thrills with delight at the vastness +and beauty of nature,--never allowed opportunities of committing +the choicest bits to canvas or paper, to escape her; and, some +picturesque display having caught her eye, directly she had located +herself on an accommodating boulder, she was at work. Herrick's +good advice, "Gather ye rosebuds while ye may--Old Time is still a- +flying," might be adapted, she thinks, to sketchers in mountainous +regions, and she speaks from bitter experience when she suggests: + +"Paint in your snow-peaks while you may, +If clouds are quickly flying, +For those heights now in bright display +May soon in mist be lying." + +The beauty of the scene was without alloy, the colouring splendid, +and up the road above us, beyond which rose the hill, a shepherd +was leading his flock of sheep, now and then clapping his hands or +shouting to a straggler, but as a rule walking quietly on, the +whole flock following in a continuous line. Not wishing to be idle, +I took out my pencil to indulge in a poetic eulogy. How far I +succeeded may be judged from the following lines, which might be +called + +"SPRING'S BITTERS AND SWEETS." + +Here on a moss-grown boulder sitting, +Watching the graceful swallows flitting, +Hearing the cuckoo's note. +Sheep on the hills around me feeding, +While in their piteous accents pleading, +The lambkins' bleatings float. +--Oh, dear! a fly gone down my throat. + +Spring's gentle influence all things feeling, +New life o'er hill and valley stealing: +Buttercups, daisies fair, +Studding the meadow, sweetly smiling, +Bees with their hum the hours beguiling, +Breezes so soft and rare. +--Oh, what a fearful wasp was there! + +Grand is the view from this grey boulder, +Each high snow-peak, each rocky shoulder: +Charming, yet wild, the sight. +Cherry-trees, with white blossom laden, +And 'neath their shade a peasant maiden, +Comely her costume bright. +--Oh, how these impish ants do bite! + +Onward the winding river's flowing, +Its spray-splashed stones in sunshine glowing, +The peaceful oxen by. +From the tall trees the magpies' warning, +As on their nests intent, our presence scorning, +From branch to branch they fly. +--Oh! there's an insect in my eye. +I've done: such pests one really can't defy. + +Miss Blunt couldn't defy them either, so, as it was getting near +luncheon-time besides, we retraced our steps, but had not gone very +far before we suffered a severe disappointment. Some fifty yards +below us in the path stood a seeming counterpart of "Madge +Wildfire"; a wild, weird, wizened looking creature, whom we +immediately recognised as a "witch of the hills." Her hair unkempt, +her bodice hanging in tatters from her shoulders, her patched and +threadbare petticoat barely fastened round what should have been +her waist (and a _waste_ it was) by a hook and eye held by a few +threads--even such as this, up the path she came. But what a +miserable failure she was! When she came close to us, instead of +pouring out a torrent of mad words, telling of her woes and wrongs, +or at any rate breaking into a disgusting whine such as + + "Oh, gentles, I am mad and old, + My dress is worn and thin; + Oh, give me one small piece of gold! + To clothe my wretched skin;" + +she didn't even offer to tell our fortunes, but passed timidly by. +It was enough to have disappointed a saint! and we were only +restored to a pleasant frame of mind by finding Mr. Sydney at the +hotel on our return. + +[Illustration] + +In the afternoon we took the other path--previously mentioned as +branching off below the bridge over the Gave d'Azun,--which leading +sharply to the right, passes beside the river for a short distance, +and then leads among the fields, finally--like others in Argeles-- +losing itself there. Just as the poplars which run with it ceased, +we had a lovely view up a dip between two fertile hills, to the +snow-peaks near Bareges; a narrow path skirts the side of the hill, +on the right, in the direction of the morning's sketching ground, +but this we did not take, making, instead, for the hill standing +immediately above the river. Up this a certain distance we +clambered--scaring a few large green lizards that were sunning +themselves on the stones,--by a sheep track we managed to discover, +till we could look down on a mass of tangled brushwood by the +riverside. Scrambling down to this through the wild vines and +briars, we succeeded, after many fruitless attempts, in gaining the +water's edge. There was no place to cross and the current was far +too swift to attempt jumping, so we had to turn back. While +deliberating on the right path, a little girl, looking very +wretched, with blurred face and torn clothes, came round a corner, +and asked us if we had seen a lamb anywhere. We were sorry we +hadn't, very sorry indeed; all we could do was to endeavour to +recollect a rhyme and adapt it to her case, that we learnt in the +nursery when we were something under fifteen, and, although it +didn't seem to assuage her grief much--probably because she didn't +understand a word of English--we think it ought to be quoted in +case it should be useful to others. + +JEANNETTE'S LAMB. + +Jeannette had a naughty lamb, +That looked like dirty snow; +And wherever Jeannette went +That lamb would never go. + +It wandered from her care one day, +(Oh, stupid little fool!) +It made her cry her heart away +While searching brake and pool. + +And Jeannette tore her dress to rags, +And scratched her hands and face; +But of her dirty little lamb +She couldn't find a trace. + +The lamb fell in the river deep, +But Jeannette never knew. +Though Satan finds some mischief still, +For little lambs to do. + +However, she listened very submissively till we had finished, and +then wandered off again still searching for her lamb, while we +retraced our steps. + +There is a drive round the Argeles valley, which on a fine day is +simply splendid, and ought certainly not to be missed. At ten a.m. +a landau with two good horses was at the door, and away we went +towards Argeles station, across the line, over a new piece of road, +and then across a rather shaky, but wholly quaint, wooden bridge +(under which flows the Gave de Pau) to the base of the hills. As we +continued along this road in the direction of Pierrefitte, the +views of the mountains on the Argeles side were especially fine. +The Pic d'Arrens (7435 ft.) and the Col de Tortes (5903 ft.), with +the wild Pic de Gabizos (8808 ft.) with its toothed summits, behind +it--in the direction of Eaux Bonnes: over Pierrefitte the Pic de +Soulom (5798 ft.), the Pic de Viscos (7025 ft.), and far up the +Cauterets valley the Cabaliros (7655 ft.), the Pic de Labassa (9781 +ft.), and the Pyramide de Peyrelance (8800 ft. about). An +especially interesting part arrives, as the road approaches the +wonderful old ruin of the Chateau de Beaucens (with "oubliettes" +towers, a "donjon" of the 14th century, and west walls of the 16th +ditto), which stands on the left, not far from the village of the +same name. Crossing the river again, we just managed to pass over +some newly-laid road, to the village of Villelongue--above which, +on the left, towers the imposing Pic de Villelongue--and soon after +found ourselves beside the river again at the foot of the Pic de +Soulom, where it is very lovely, and crossing another bridge, +reached Soulom itself. It seemed to us an old and somewhat dirty +town--not to say filthy--but the church is worthy of a visit. It +was formerly fortified, and the construction of the belfry--if such +it can be called--is curious. The inscription over the door, "This +is the house of God and the gate of heaven," written in Latin, +seems somewhat grotesque for such a building, although the dome is +painted to represent the sky in all the "intensity" of a starlight +night. A few yards along the road and we stood on the bridge over +the "Gave de Cauterets," at the other side of which is Pierrefitte +--and from which point the scenery is especially grand. Passing the +Hotel de la Poste (recommended) on the left, and the way to the +station on the right, we bore up the hill in the former direction, +towards St. Savin. + +This old place--in fact the oldest village in the valley--is an +easy walk from Argeles, and should certainly not be excluded from a +visit. Having passed the dismantled Chateau de Despourrins and the +statue at the roadside erected in the poet's (Despourrins') honour, +we had a grand glimpse of the valley below; and, leaving behind the +Chapelle de Pietad (16th century), which stands on a point above +the road, we entered the village. The street leading to the ancient +Roman Church is ancient too, reminding one, in the curious +construction of the houses, of Chester, the style of supporting the +upper part on wooden beams, reaching over the road, and leaving a +passage beneath, being very similar. The church has been restored +and is in capital preservation. As there were so many objects of +interest, chiefly connected with the great St. Savin himself, we +sent for the verger, sexton, bellringer, parish beadle, or whatever +the "goitreux" individual called himself, and paid great attention +to all he had to say. Although a good deal was quite unintelligible, +the following are some of the most interesting facts. Entering +at the small side door, immediately within stands a curious +and very old benitier (font), with two curious individuals +carved in the stone supporting the basin. These are supposed to +represent two "Cagots," a despised race for whom the font itself +was constructed. Very few people know anything about their origin, +but they were greatly detested by the inhabitants of the country, +and not even allowed to worship in the same church, or use the same +"holy water" as the rest. They still exist about Gavarnie and a few +other spots, and we hope to learn more of them. The old battered +organ next presents itself to the view, with the long flight of +steps leading up to it, but as it wished to tell its own story, +without further description behold + +"THE ORGAN'S TALE." + + Good people who gaze at my ruinous state, + Don't lift up your noses and sneer: + I've a pitiful story I wish to relate, + And, I pray you, believe me sincere. + + I was young, I was "sweet," in the years that are gone, + The breath through my proud bosom rolled, + And I loved to peal forth as the service went on, + O'er the heads of the worshipping fold. + + How time speeds along! Three whole centuries--yes!-- + Have passed since the day of my birth; + And, good people, I thought myself then, you may guess, + The loveliest organ on earth. + + Such pipes and such stops! and a swell--such a swell!!! + My music rang under the dome; + And the way that I held the old folks 'neath my spell + You should know; but alas! they've gone "home." + + Then my varnish was bright, and my panels were gay + With devices both script'ral and quaint; + I frightened the _sinner_ with hair turning grey, + But charmed into rapture the _saint_. + + Those faces once painted so brightly would smile, + And put out their tongues at my voice; + As the pedals were played, they would wag all the while, + And the children below would rejoice. + + Now is it not sad to have once been so grand, + And now to be shattered and old? + To look but a ruin up here, where I stand + Decidedly out in the cold? + + Each "pipe is put out," and my "stops" are no more, + I belong to a "period" remote; + And as to the tongues that wagged freely of yore, + They have long disappeared down the throat. + + My pedals are broken or gone quite awry, + My "keys"--you may "note"--are now dust; + No longer a "swell"--not as faint as a sigh-- + While my bellows, good people, are "bust." + + I am twisted and worn, in a ruinous state, + But prythee, good people, don't sneer! + My joys and my sorrows I've tried to relate, + And in judging me don't be severe!!! + +Leaving the organ, and passing behind the "high altar," we beheld +the tomb of the redoubtable saint, who is supposed to have been +shut up there at the end of the 10th century, though the gilt +ornament (?) above is some four centuries younger. The set of old +paintings to the right and left represent scenes in the good man's +life, who, if he had only changed the _i_ in his name to _o_--and +the king would have agreed readily--by the perpetual allusion to +_Savon_, would perhaps have done much for the natives generally. +The robing-room, wherein the head of the revered man is kept in a +casket, and the "Salle du Chapitre," with quaint carvings of the +12th century, beyond, are other places of interest. + +The "Chateau de Miramont," which adjoins, is now used as a convent +(or college), and visitors are not permitted to inspect it. We +bought a lithographed print of the church and its environs for half +a franc, from our round-backed guide, besides depositing a +"douceur" in his horny palm, and consequently parted with him on +the best of terms. The road for some distance being rather steep, +we preferred to walk and let the carriage follow, but when nearing +the junction with the Pierrefitte road, we mounted again and bowled +along at a smart pace over the well-known bridge to the hotel. + +There was nothing striking about our hotel life, although we found +it pleasant, being a "parti carre." We were generally the sole +partakers of the table-d'hote, at which the food was excellent, the +jugged chamois (izard) being especially good. Light, however, was +at a premium. It may have been all out of compliment, to bear +testimony to our being "shining lights" ourselves; still, for all +that, we should have been glad to forego the politeness, and +receive, instead, a reinforcement of lamps. + +Argeles itself is a peculiar old place; though devoid of much +interest, except on market-days. The curious houses and towers, the +street watercourses (as at Bagneres de Bigorre), the church, and +the strange chapel-like building now used as a diocesan college, +are all that is noteworthy even, excepting the "State schools," +built three years ago. + +On a Tuesday, when the market is in full swing, the square in front +of the post-office looks bright and cheerful, and vegetables +flourish. We took a very pleasant walk after passing through the +stalls, and down past the Hotel de France. The route we followed +leads to the right, close by the new State schools, among some poor +cottages, where it turns sharply in the opposite direction, and +runs down beside some fine old chestnut trees to the river. +Continuing, the track leads up a fine glen, with views of the snow- +peaks towards Eaux Bonnes, which well repaid our walk. + +Returning again by the town, we wandered about through the narrow +streets, taking a farewell survey before leaving for Cauterets, +whither we were next intent. + +There is another episode connected with Argeles, that will live in +our memories, and it is one that future travellers, methinks, may +have reason to appreciate, if not to endorse. + +Everybody learns from unhappy experience how sour the bread is +throughout the Pyrenees, only excepting two or three resorts, and +as we were aware of the fact before leaving Pau, we arranged with +Monsieur Kern, of the Austrian Bakery, Rue de la Prefecture, to +send us a certain amount of bread every day. The first night at +Argeles was spent without it, but on the evening of the following +day a packet was brought into the drawing-room, where we were +assembled, and at the magical word "bread" every eye brightened, +and every face relaxed into a smile. Let no one cavil. This was one +of the episodes that link Argeles to us with a pleasant charm. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +CAUTERETS. + +Hotel de la Poste, Pierrefitte--The Gorge--Its majestic beauty--The +resemblance to the Llanberis Pass--Mrs. Blunt becomes poetical--Zinc +mines--Le Pont de Mediabat--Entering the town--The Rue Richelieu and +Hotel du Parc--Winter's seal upon them still--Thermes des +Oeufs--Thermes de Cesar--The Casino and Esplanade des Oeufs--A good +dinner and the menu--The start for the Col de Riou--The Grange de la +Reine Hortense--The pines--Miss Blunt's "exhortation to the first +snow"--The dogs and their gambols--Defeated, but not discouraged--To +the Cerizey Cascade--The baths of La Raillere, Petit St. Sauveur, and +Le Pre--Cascade du Lutour--The Marcadau gorge--Scenery--Pic de +Gaube--At the Cerizey Cascade--The Pont d'Espagne and Lac de +Gaube--Pont de Benques--Lutour Valley--Various excursions up same--The +"Pare"--Allees de Gambasque--The Peguere--The "Pagoda" Villa--Promenade +du Mamelon Vert--The road's up again--Blows and blasts--The bishop's +arrival--Enthusiasm, pomposity, and benedictions--The pilgrims at +large--They start on an excursion--The market and Hotel de Ville--The +grocer's opinion--Pyrenean dogs and their treatment--The +dog-fancier--Smiles and temper--Bargaining displaced--No dog after all! + + +A Landau with four horses was ready after lunch, to transport us and +our baggage to Cauterets; but having enjoyed Argeles very much, we were +none of us particularly glad at the prospect of the change. The road as +far as Pierrefitte, lovely as it is at this season of freshness, +discloses no other views than those previously described, but when we +turned sharply to the right, after passing the Hotel de la Poste, and +began the ascent towards Cauterets, then our eyes had indeed a rich +treat. It would require the most dismal of dismal days, with sluicing +rain and clouds low down on every beautiful crag and snow-tipped +summit, to make anybody born with a soul above his dinner, complain of +the grandeur of the gorge, or impugn the unceasing variety of dashing +waterfalls, foaming river, freshly-opened leaves, white heather, and +bright, flower-decked fields. + +The same wild majesty as the Llanberis Pass presents, strikes one here: +the enormous crags in threatening attitude far up the heights, the +chasms and fissures brightened by a patch of young grass or a small +tree, and, nearer the road, the scattered boulders luxuriantly covered +with moss and fern, belong to both alike; and, while the bushes of +snowy heather, the constant splash of the cascades falling over the +rocks in feathery spray, and in the distance the hoary-headed monarchs +of the range reaching up towards the sky, make this different from the +familiar Welsh scene, it is only a difference that greatly intensifies +the beauty and the charm of this Cauterets gorge. + +Even Mrs. Blunt, who as a rule prefers the matter-of-fact to the +poetical, was lifted out of herself, for she suddenly clutched me by +the arm, and pointing in the distance, murmured something about +"summits proudly lifting up to the sky," and being quite unused to that +kind of thing, it took me some time to recover from the shock. + +A little over three miles from Pierrefitte,--where a glimpse at the +zinc mines and the wire tram in connection with them can be +obtained--the road passes over the bridge of Mediabat, and some yards +beyond becomes identical with the old route, which until then lay below +us. The new portion (made in 1874) only extends for about two miles, +as it does not commence till after the zigzag rise from Pierrefitte +leads into the gorge, but the engineering of the whole has been +admirably carried out, and the ascent of nearly 1,700 feet in the six +miles does not tell severely on the horses. Now in an almost straight +line, now by zigzags, we gradually neared the town, the gorge widening +at the same time, though the peaks, some covered with trees, some +snow-covered, seemed to bar the way completely at no very great +distance. + +We were quite close before we could really be said to have seen the +town, and ere we could form any opinion of it we drove up the Rue +Richelieu and found ourselves at the Hotel du Parc. Monsieur +Villeneuve, the jovial and experienced host, and his pleasant spouse, +came out to welcome us, and although the hotel had only been open four +days, made us as comfortable as they could. + +[Illustration: CAUTERETS.] + +Cauterets (3,254 feet) was only just waking into life, only two or +three hotels, one or two hair-dressers, one confectioner's, one +tobacconist's, and one or two grocers' shops were open; while of the +bathing establishments, the "Thermes des Oeufs," the largest, and the +Thermes de Cesar, were the only ones showing signs of renewed life. +The Esplanade des Oeufs, [Footnote: "Oeufs" because of the water's +scent resembling "rotten eggs."] a large tree-planted space in front of +the principal "thermes" (just mentioned)--which serves as casino, +concert-hall, and theatre as well--seemed utterly deserted; whereas in +summer, with the band playing, the trees in full leaf, the booths +opened, and the crowds of visitors, the scene must be the gayest of +the gay. We had just time to notice so much, on the afternoon of our +arrival, before the sun set behind the huge mountains which surround +this charming spot and the hour of dinner arrived. This dinner was so +excellent, so well cooked and served, that, although we despise with a +deep-rooted scorn the wretched class of individuals who make their +dinner their main object in life, we nevertheless consider that we are +only paying a merited tribute to the _chef_ in saying that the +cooking was always of a high standard, and quoting as a specimen the +evening's _menu_ (May 1): + +SOUP. +Gravy. + +FISH. +Salmon, with sliced potatoes and melted butter. + +MADE DISHES. +Hashed Veal. Sauce Piquante. +Sweetbreads and green peas. + +ROAST. +Chicken. + +VEGETABLES. +Asparagus. Potatoes (new). + +PUDDING. +Sago. + +ICE, &c. +Vanilla cream. +Cheese, Jelly, and Biscuits. + +When we woke the following morning, the sun shining from a cloudless +sky proclaimed an "excursion morning." Accordingly, we sent for a +guide, to inquire if a visit to the Lac de Gaube was practicable. The +guide arrived, and disappointment ensued. It was possible to go if we +didn't mind a few miles of snow, two feet deep and upwards. But we did +mind very strongly, and said so. Then the burly native spoke again, and +said that the Col de Riou was an easy trip, that we could take horses +to within a short distance of the summit, and that when we got there +the splendid view would include St. Sauveur, Argeles, Bareges, +Gavarnie, &c. &c. And we answered the burly native in his sister tongue +(_patois_ was his mother tongue), or as near to it as we could, +and said, "Have three horses ready by half-past ten at this hotel, and +we will start." Then, delighted, he smiled and bowed, and disappeared +down the street. + +At eleven o'clock the cavalcade started, and a noble cavalcade it was: +Miss Blunt on a strong dark bay pony, Mr. Sydney on a similar-coloured +horse, and myself on a grey, formed the van; then came our burly friend +(by name Pont Dominique), and another guide (Berret), carrying the +lunch; and the rear was brought up by a small brindled bull-dog, and a +smaller specimen of unknown breed, which was nevertheless a capital +harmony in orange and white. In this order we left the Rue Richelieu +and ascended the Rue d'Etigny, passing under several wreaths and +crowns, with which the streets were decorated. We had previously +noticed these grand preparations on our arrival, and though sensible of +the good feeling that apparently prompted these attentions, we thought +they were somewhat superfluous. But that is (as they were) by the way. +Having soon reached the last of the houses, we gained the Rue du Pauze +Vieux, and turning sharply to the right, ascended to the two +establishments known respectively as the Pauze Vieux and Pauze Nouveau. +And here a paradox--pause, view, and be convinced! The Pauze Vieux is +the Pauze Nouveau and the Pauze Nouveau is the Pauze Vieux. Should any +well-educated citizen of any country under the sun (or daughter) be +disposed to doubt, let him examine the buildings for himself, and he +must agree. + +Half-an-hour after starting we reached the cottage known as the "Grange +de la Reine Hortense," the view from which is excessively fine. Looking +down towards the town, the mighty Cabaliros (7655 ft.), forming a +semicircle, stood above on the right; to the left of this semicircle +reared up the Monne (8938 ft.), the highest mountain in the vicinity, +from which other peaks make another similar formation, ending with La +Brune, beside which, but more to the left and immediately over the +town, rises the Peguere, covered with irregularly-heaped crags, and +pines. The town itself looked very neat and compact: the Mamelon Vert +(a small hill to the right) and the chief thorough-fares being easily +distinguished. Far up the Lutour valley, to the extreme left, the Pic +de Labassa, or de la Sebe (9781 ft.), and the Pyramide de Peyrelance +(8800 ft.), completed the chief points of the scene in that direction; +but far away in the opposite one we could easily see the Argeles valley +and the Gothic church of Lourdes. Behind us, seemingly facing the +Cabaliros, were the Col de Riou (6375 ft.), our would-be destination, +and the Pic de Viscos. Winding up the hillside, and passing banks blue +with the large and small gentian, we entered the pines, which made a +pleasant change. As at the Col d'Aspin, [Footnote: Vide Bigorre, p. +42.] the rising sap filled the air with its refreshing odour, and the +occasional glimpses of blue sky, mountain, and valley, through the +gently waving branches, were very charming. + +[Illustration: ASCENT OF COL DE RIOU] + +We had not proceeded very far through the trees when we reached a +break, where one of the party felt that at least something had been +gained. There, partly on the track, partly on the loose stones above +it, lay a bank of snow, and so delighted was Miss Blunt at having +attained the (present) snow-line--say about 4600 feet above sea +level--that her feelings were not to be in any way damped or +suppressed, as they burst forth in an + +"EXHORTATION TO THE FIRST SNOW." + + Emblem of Purity, + Chilly as Charity, +Oh, what a joy your deep whiteness to view! + Something is gain'd at last, + But you are melting fast, +Why does the cruel sun put you to stew? + + Tell me, O long-lain snow, + What of the vale below? +What do you think about people and things? + Do you love forest-trees? + Or love you more the breeze? +Tell me what bird you think most sweetly sings? + + What? You've no heart at all? + Cannot help where you fall, +Caring not if you swell to a huge size: + Minding not how you rush, + What you break, whom you crush? +Surely such feelings you ought to disguise. + + Ah, well! we won't discuss, + Useless to make a fuss; +For, after all, I am glad that we met. + Emblem of Purity, + Chilly as Charity-- +But I won't roll in you. No! you're too wet! + +The two dogs were amusing in their absurdity. They were perpetually +endeavouring to detach stones from the side of the pathway, so as to +have the pleasure of pursuing them down the steep. At times, when the +hill was thickly strewn with leaves or particularly steep, they +completely disappeared, though violent pulsations among the scattered +branches and the aforesaid leaves told us they were not lost, but only +temporarily buried. + +When we had barely mounted another 400 feet, we came upon regular banks +of snow, right over the path. This was quite unexpected, and we had to +decide whether to leave the horses and tramp through the snow, or to +return. We chose the latter--although the Col de Riou stood out +seemingly very practicable of ascent--and, returning on foot, the +horses and guides following, with the dogs here, there, and everywhere, +we reached the "Grange de la Reine Hortense" and proceeded to lunch. +After giving a very good account of the _pate_ sandwiches, and not +forgetting the guides and the dogs, we made our way slowly back, +defeated perhaps, but certainly not discouraged. + +Although neither the Lac de Gaube nor the Pont d'Espagne were +attainable, the Cerizey Fall, which is about one third of the distance +to the lake along the same route, was kind enough to put itself at our +disposal. Not wishing to appear ungrateful, we availed ourselves of a +fine afternoon to order round the horses and our two guides, and +started about two o'clock. For some time we followed the road known as +the Rue de la Raillere, which leads to the baths of the same name from +the Place St. Martin; crossing the river by a very unpretentious +bridge, not far from the town. Leaving La Raillere behind, and passing +in turn the drinking establishment of Mauhourat--near which the Gaves +of Lutour and Marcadau form the Gave of Cauterets--and the baths of +Petit St. Sauveur and Le Pre, and gaining as we mounted a good view of +the "Cascade de Lutour" on the left, we entered the Marcadau valley, or +(more properly) gorge. The scenery, similar somewhat to that at the +entrance to the Cauterets gorge from Pierrefitte, is nevertheless +wilder and more severe. The occasional bright fields and frequent +mountain streams, with their merry music, disappear; but the lofty +heights, the gloomy firs, the mighty crags and boulders, and the +snow-peaks beyond, remain. After a great amount of very rough and steep +ascending--the Pic de Gaube (7644 ft.) the while standing conspicuously +before us--we reached the small hut that is intended as a shelter, near +the fall. Dismounting and taking the narrow path to the right over the +stones, immediately above the hut, we obtained a capital view of this +noisy cascade. Other views were obtained by us from above, by +clambering over the stones and boulders at the side of the torrent; but +this is the best of all. From the hut (mentioned above) one hour's good +walking, over anything but a pleasant track, brings one to the Pont +d'Espagne, and it requires another forty minutes to reach the Lac de +Gaube. + +[Footnote: The lake is full of excellent salmon trout, and there is a +small inn on its shores, where visitors can stop the night in summer. +The Vignemale, from whose summit the view is wonderfully vast, rears up +above the lake.] + +As horses can be taken for the whole distance when the road is free +from snow, our feelings at not being able to proceed can be better +imagined than described! By Mauhourat, whither we presently returned, +the Pont de Benques crosses the Marcadau, and the track to the left +leads up the valley of the Gave de Lutour. We did not pursue it very +far, as the workmen were busy repairing it, and it is also very rough +and steep. Several favourite excursions, however, are reached by it, +among which may be mentioned the Cascade de "Pisse-Arros" (forty +minutes from Cauterets), the "Fruitiere" (two hours from Cauterets), +the Lac d'Estom, 5847 ft. (three hours from Cauterets), the Ravin +d'Araille (three hours forty-five minutes), the Lake of Estom Soubiran, +7632 ft. (four hours thirty minutes), the Lake of Estibaoute, 7744 ft. +(four hours forty five minutes), and the Col d'Estom Soubiran (six +hours thirty minutes). + +[Illustration: LAC DE GAUBE.] + +Instead of again crossing the bridge below La Raillere, we kept to the +left, along what may have been _once_ a Roman road, but which was +_now_ at any rate a track both unpleasant and dangerous. + +For some distance, large boulders, soil, and smaller stones overhung +it, and seemed as though the least rain or slightest push would bring +them down. Gradually this unpleasantness ceased, and as the road +widened we passed a few villas and entered the "Parc," which, according +to the natives, is part and parcel of the Esplanade des Oeufs, the +great summer resort in front of the Casino, from the back of which a +pleasant path of very gentle gradient ascends for about a mile to the +"Allees de Cambasque," up the flank of the Peguere; and to the Cabanes +(huts) de Cambasque beyond. + +Although there is but little level road for enjoying a ride, we +nevertheless managed to pass a short time very pleasantly on horseback. +Leaving the Esplanade des Oeufs on the left, we took the road passing +between the back of the Hotel d'Angleterre and a curious chalet, built +with a pagoda beside it, and little bridges in communication. Following +this road, which is known as the Promenade du Mamelon Vert, [Footnote: +The Mamelon Vert is a green hill near the entrance to the town.] and in +turn passing the "Cafe du Mamelon Vert"--near which the track to the +Cabaliros branches off--and the commencement of the path to Catarabe, +we bore down to the right at the back of the Mamelon, and crossed the +Gave by a rickety wooden bridge--shortly to be superseded by one of +stone--into the Pierrefitte road. Down this, through the fine gorge +within sight of the mines, and then back to the hotel, constituted the +remainder of the ride. + +Our stay at Cauterets was not without excitement, though certainly that +excitement was not of a pleasant kind. We soon discovered that the +decorating of the streets was for the benefit of the "Confirmation +Procession," for which the Bishop was coming from Tarbes. The Rue +Richelieu was "up" all along one side for the laying of gas-pipes, and, +by way of diversion, every now and then--usually when we were at +dinner, or wanting to look out of the window--a penny squeaking trumpet +would sound, then a lad would rush about and close all the shutters, +leaving the rooms in darkness and the inmates in suspense, till it +ended in a series of loud reports, accompanied by the distribution of +various specimens of granite in all directions. The authorities stopped +this nice performance when the Bishop was expected, as the mere chance +of "blasting" a Bishop would have been too painful for the Catholic +workmen's feelings, especially as they hoped for a benediction! As soon +as word arrived of the approach of "Monseigneur's" carriage, the cure +and chief dignitaries of the town, accompanied by a brass band, a +detachment of firemen, and a small regiment of women--decked in hoods +of blue or red or white--passed down the muddy street, bearing banners, +and a gilded canopy with white plumes. In a few moments they returned, +the band playing, the banners waving, the abbes and choir singing, and +in the centre of the throng, with two cures in front of him under the +canopy, came the new Bishop of Tarbes, resplendent in violet watered +silk, trimmed with beautiful lace, gloves of the same hue, with ring on +the outside of the right hand, which he perpetually kissed to the +admiring spectators. Miss Blunt, who was for once able to look out of +the window in safety, had a special one all to herself, and of course +she didn't mind any amount of explosions after that! + +Then we had other excitements, in the shape of wretched bands of +pilgrims, who, having a spare day, came up from Lourdes to see the +mountains. They invaded our salon, drank beer at eight o'clock in the +morning, and looked on the whole--in spite of their rosettes of black, +red, and yellow--as disreputable a lot of individuals as ever turned +religion into farce. Whether it was quite worth while suffering their +presence for the fun of seeing them mount, when starting for their +excursion, is open to question, but that it was a unique and comic +sight we were all agreed. The hotel garden, filled with guides, horses, +donkeys, and pilgrims; the delicate exhibition of ankles and feet +--such feet; the chairs to help the rotund damsels; the swarm of +natives round one especially fat woman, who got down after all; the +beaming face of the host, and the gloomy looks of a very fat man, just +the size for a small pilgrim tea party; not omitting the priest, whose +flowing robe nearly hid his _better half_ (viz. the donkey), made +a scene worthy of reproduction in the pages of 'Punch.' + +Although we strolled about a good deal, we found but little of interest +in the town itself; perhaps the most fascinating spot was the +Patisserie Suisse, in the Rue Cesar, just below the baths of the same +name. The Hotel de Ville is a fine building, and in summer perhaps, the +market, which stands in a street to the left of it, may present an +animated spectacle; but at this time it had the appearance of a large +monkey cage, with good strong iron railings in front, a few cabbages +and onions, and a small group of ancient and much-wizened native +specimens inside. + +We enjoyed our stay, however, in the midst of all the wild scenery +immensely, and think that but few people, if they came during the month +of June, would be prepared to differ from us. There are always some of +course, and before coming we had the pleasure of meeting two of them, +in the shape of a retired _grocer_ (or something of that kind in +the wholesale line) and his wife. They both declared that "Cauterets +was a vile 'ole, with 'igh streets and showy 'ouses, and that a +sensible 'uman being wouldn't stay there ha _h_our;" but it must +be mentioned in their favour, that the day on which they went was +rather damp, and there was only one grocer's shop open. If anyone +should be disposed to take their verdict as more conclusive than ours, +we can simply say, "Believe neither, but go and see for yourself." + +There is one other subject worth mentioning, in regard to which we had +a trifling diversion on the morning of our departure. The true breed of +Pyrenean dogs may be seen at Cauterets, and puppies obtained by any +people who wish to have a specimen of this fine race. The great secret +in rearing them is to avoid meat of any kind, and feed them on bread +with a little milk, or very thin soup. It is not the climate of +England, as has so often been alleged, which gives them consumption, +but the change to rich diet from the meagre fare which in the mountains +they always receive. + +The prices vary so much, that it is wisest for a stranger to enlist the +services of some trustworthy native to arrange the purchase, rather +than to do the bargaining himself. Pups from six weeks to three months +sell at from ten francs to one hundred, but a really fine specimen of +two and a half months ought to be bought for thirty-five francs. Dogs +of six months and upwards are expensive; as much as five hundred francs +being asked for them in the season. + +As Miss Blunt had a great desire to become the possessor of one of +these fluffy creatures, whenever any were seen inquiries were always +directed at once with regard to their parentage and price. Happening to +perceive a woolly tail disappearing behind a workshop in the Rue de la +Raillere a few hours before we had to start, we passed up a short entry +beside the aforementioned workshop, and asked to see the owner of the +dogs. In a few seconds he stood before us, a weather-beaten Frenchman, +who, as well as his clothes and his intellect, had seen better days--a +man about five feet six inches high, with face deeply lined; moustache, +goatee, and hair, all somewhat sparse and grizzled; a blue berret (the +native hat) in his hand; his shirt fastened by a single stud, barely +hiding what had been once a brawny chest; his loose trousers +half-covered by a leathern apron; and his two coats both threadbare, +and decorated with ribands in an equally worn-out state--such, bowing +and smiling as he approached, was the proprietor alike of the dogs and +the workshop. In spite of his poor appearance and idiosyncrasy--almost +approaching to madness--he had a certain dignity of manner which we +could not fail to notice. But he was very trying to deal with. Whenever +the price was the object of our inquiry, he began in the following +strain: "Very good, very good; which does Monsieur like? which does +Ma'm'selle prefer? The finest of course? Ah yes, the finest! Ah, very +good; take your choice, Monsieur; take which you please. The finest +dogs in the world! See! see! Monsieur" (and here he pointed to the +ribands on his breast), "I gained the prize at the Paris +Exhibition!--at the Paris Exhibition!--the exhibition open to all the +world--I, with the dogs I had brought down from the mountains and bred +myself, I gained the prize. Ha! ha! there were two Englishmen, two of +your fellow-countrymen, who thought they would beat me; but no, no, +Monsieur, it was to me you see (pointing to his breast again), +Monsieur, that they gave the prize." At last, however, he named fifty +francs as the price of either, which was very excessive, and when I +suggested ten--which was proportionately low--he proceeded to take off +his apron, roll up his coat-sleeves, and then, looking at me fiercely, +said, "So, Monsieur, you take me for a ten-franc man, do you? You think +to mock me, do you? I, who gained the prize at the Paris Exhibition, +the exhibition open to all the world, for the finest dogs, you think I +will sell my puppies at ten francs, Monsieur? No, Monsieur. I will not +sell you one for ten francs, and I do not wish to have anything more to +do with you." And then he, who five minutes before had been shaking my +hand with delight because I knew the owner of the parent dog (of his +puppies), with a lofty wave of the hand motioned me to depart. Before +doing so I soothed his offended dignity by a mellifluous explanation, +and he once more, but somewhat loftily, offered me his hand as I bade +him farewell. So, in spite of the pleasant diversion, Miss Blunt did +not get her dog! + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +LUZ AND BAREGES. + +Rain at starting--A blighted view, yet lovely still--Pont d'Enfer +--Nature's voice--Sere and Esquiez--Luz--Its situation and status--An +old house--The ancient Church of the Templars--La Chapelle de St. +Roch--Pyrenean museum--Hotel de l'Univers--Chateau de Ste. Marie--"The +Jackdaw's Causerie"--A new "Diet of Worms"--The new bathing +establishment--To Bareges--Pic d'Ayre--Esterre--Viella--Betpouey--Mill +conduits--Cercle des Etrangers--Opinion of the town--Grand +Etablissement--Promenade Horizontale--Hospice de Ste. Eugenie--"The Jay +of Bareges"--Wood anemones--Hepaticas--Valley of Lienz--Pic de +Lienz--Pic d'Ayre's summit--Pic de Neouville--Mountain rhododendrons +--_Anemone vernalis_. + + +Although we had beautiful weather all the while we remained in +Cauterets, directly we prepared to depart down came the rain, the mists +descended over the hills, and until we reached Pierrefitte we were +unable to obtain more than momentary glances at the beauty we had so +delighted in, before. Having crossed the Gave de Bareges by the Pont de +Villelongue, we were soon in the gorge, the rocks on the left of which +were blasted for five miles, when the road was constructed. +Notwithstanding that it still rained, the clouds were a little higher, +and our view consequently less contracted. + +[Illustration: THE GORGE NEAR PIERREFITTE.] + +The beauty of the scene was indisputable, and yet it was a beauty less +wild and majestic, and more unequal, than that of the Cauterets Gorge. +The heights on the left had frequently the barest and most +uninteresting appearance, when on the other side the eye was enchanted +with the varied spring tints on the trees massed together up the slopes +from the river, whose limpid green pools or foaming rapids gave such a +charm to the picture. The old road is seen in many parts, and several +of the old bridges, but the one about three and three-quarter miles +from Pierrefitte, at a point where the Gorge widens--known as the Pont +d'Enfer, and built partly of wood as well as stone--is by far the most +interesting. The scenery in its vicinity was particularly beautiful. +The wild quinces, with their white blossoms mingling with those of the +cherry and the light green of the maples, larches, elms, birches, and +limes; the bright fields above, and the ever-lovely river below; with +the massive crags and a babbling waterfall, rendered this part +especially--as well as several others in a lesser degree--enchanting. + +An enthusiast might easily write a book on the beauty of this gorge +alone, but in this age he would probably find few readers; of those who +did look at his book the greater number would find it probably too +highly-coloured, while the more enthusiastic ones would lament its lack +of warmth. Not wishing to incur the displeasure of either, we refrain +from saying a great deal about the splendour of this drive; knowing +that to a lover of the beautiful in Nature, all we have left unsaid +Nature will herself say ten times more impressively. + +After passing the monument in honour of the "Reine Hortense," which is +five miles from Pierrefitte, and crossing the Bridge de la Hiladere, we +soon caught sight of some villages on the left, where poplars--stiffly +prominent in all directions--spoil much of the picturesqueness of the +surroundings. The villages of Sere and Esquiez, that we saw when +nearing Luz, are ancient and worthy of a visit. Together they formed a +"chef-lieu" before the eleventh century, and the Roman church in each, +but especially that of Sere, is exceedingly interesting. A few moments, +during which we crossed a marble bridge over the Gave de Bastan, and, +bearing to the left, we were in Luz. + +Denominated by various titles, from a "poor village" to a "small rustic +town," Luz is by no means an insignificant place. It doubtless owes a +great deal to its situation in a pleasant hollow among the hills, with +a pleasant landscape on all sides, and its appearance is certainly more +quaint and rustic than poor. Undoubtedly there are several old houses, +some looking particularly unsafe; undoubtedly the streets are often +very narrow; and perhaps the inhabitants on the whole may be far from +wealthy; but with all this Luz is not a poor looking village. On a +market-day the streets in the vicinity of the old church, built--partly +in the 12th and finished between the 15th and 16th centuries--by the +Templars, assume a wonderfully gay appearance, and towards the back of +the church we noticed one old house whose balconies, if a trifle warped +and weather-beaten under the thin covering of white paint, were +nevertheless bright with pots of geraniums, wallflowers, and stocks. + +The church itself is most interesting, and was at one time very +formidable also. Surrounded by a high wall pierced with loopholes in a +double row, lies the graveyard, which is only a narrow strip between +the ramparts and the church, the body of which lies between two towers. +Under the higher of these, facing north, and built for defence with +loopholes and embrasures, is one of the church doors, which leads to +the high altar steps in a direct line from the entrance into the +churchyard. Further to the right, but also facing north, is the most +remarkable entrance, the inscriptions on the arch dating from the 12th +century. On the extreme right is a door leading into the chapel, built +in the 16th century, and dedicated to St. Roch. We found the inside +interesting, without possessing any very striking features. + +[Illustration] + +The effect from the main gallery is perhaps best, and the smaller ones +running along the sides have a weird and aged appearance. Near the +entrance to the church, low down, is shown what was once the door for +that wretched race of beings, the "Cagots." + +[Footnote: We found it difficult to obtain any reliable information +about these creatures. They seem to have led an existence like the +lepers in Palestine, being avoided and despised by the inhabitants +generally, and they appear to have been both diminutive and ugly.(See +St. Savin, p. 73).] + +The Chapelle de St. Roch, which we passed into from the gallery in the +main building, is the most striking of the two. The gallery and stairs +were in a very shaky condition, and two candle-stands near the latter +seemed to have been in their prime many generations ago. The vaulted +roof, with the curious wooden groins, and the ancient _benitier_ +near the door, are worthy of inspection. Without scrambling up the +tower to the "Pyrenean Museum," but not forgetting to examine the old +bell-tower and its bells facing west, we walked down to the left and +joined the main road. + +The ancient Castle de Sainte Marie--a very interesting and historic +ruin--being in the vicinity, we followed the principal highway to the +right, and passing the much-recommended Hotel de l'Univers, were soon +in the proximity of the chateau, which, standing alone on the summit of +a pointed hill, was charmingly conspicuous. The path, after winding up +the hill, leads to an entrance at the back, which is locked, the castle +being now the property of the Precepteur of Luz, who, however, is +always willing to accommodate strangers by allowing them to enter, as +well as to inspect his garden, and the very striking image of the +Virgin which he has had perched on the front walls. A great number of +jackdaws have taken up their quarters in the old towers, and as one of +them kept continually cawing as though anxious to be heard, we append +what we made out to be the meaning of his chatter (it is said they +never speak without _cause_), which we call + +"THE JACKDAW'S CAUSERIE." + +"THE JACKDAW'S CAUSERIE." + +Caw, caw! cried the jackdaw, and cawed again, +As he circled out of the ancient tower: +Caw, caw! and he circled thrice over the plain, +And cawed once more as he reached his bower. + +Caw, caw! I was born in this fortress old, +As old as the hills, some folks might say; +Five hundred centuries, caw, have rolled +Since first it stood in the light of day. + +Caw, caw! just to think I have built my nest +Where the Black Prince ruled in such royal state. +Caw, caw! I wonder if ever he guess'd +That this would in time be his castle's fate. + +Caw, caw! but I never could quite perceive +Why one tower is round and the other square. +If I'd been the prince, I can well believe +I'd have made the architect build a pair. + +Caw, caw! by-the-bye, there was old Coffite[1] +And Jean de Bourbon, that fought so well; +And 'tis said that the prince underwent defeat-- +At least my mother this tale would tell. + +Caw, caw! they've finished with siege and fight; +The castle's too old for that, of course; +They go in for piety on the right,[2] +And we caw away till our voice grows hoarse. + +Caw, caw! I'm a Catholic right sincere, +But somehow or other I cannot see +Why they put up the Virgin's statue[3] here-- +The place is as wrong as a place could be. + +Caw, caw! I must see how my youngsters look +In their quiet nursery 'mid the stones; +Next week they'll be able "to take their hook,"[4] +And--but there they go with their squeaking tones. + +Caw, caw! cried the jackdaw, the world is vain, +But I love to dwell in my ancient tower. +Caw, caw!--why the wretches want feeding again, +They've a "diet of worms" nearly every hour. +And he cawed as he flew to the nursery bower. + +[Footnote 1: It is said that Jean de Bourbon, Comte de Clermont, and +Auger Coffite of Luz, took this castle in 1404.] + +[Footnote 2: The author does not hold himself responsible for the +jackdaw's slang, which refers to the statue.] + +[Footnote 3: This statue is in honour of "Notre Dame de Lourdes."] + +[Footnote 4: Again the jackdaw indulges in slang!] + +Leaving the jackdaw to pursue his paternal duties, we descended again +to the town, and sheltered awhile from a shower under the balcony of +the new and gaudy-looking bathing establishment, that stands in the +outskirts, towards St. Sauveur. These baths, which are only opened +during the summer, are supplied with water from Bareges, whither we +were only waiting for a fine day to make an excursion. But fine days +just then were rather hard to find, so we contented ourselves with one +that did not look very ominous, and taking a good lunch with us, +started in a landau and four at ten o'clock. + +[Illustration: THE CASTLE OF STE. MARIE.] + +The road after leaving Luz follows the course of the Gave de Bastan, +skirting in turn the base of the Montaigu [Footnote: Not to be in any +way confounded with the Montaigu near Bigorre. The French mountain +vocabulary is so defective, they often call several heights by the same +name.] and that of the Pic d'Ayre, and, passing through the villages of +Esterre (2 miles), Viella (2-1/4 miles), and Betpouey (3-1/2 miles), +winds in steep zigzags up to Bareges (4064 ft.). + +This valley, after what we had seen, did not give us much pleasure; its +appearance on the whole being sterile, though after leaving Luz as far +as Esterre, the brightness of the fields and trees, and the splashing +of the water overflowing the miniature mill conduits, made a pleasant +landscape. + +The actual distance from Luz to Bareges is barely four miles, and yet +so great is the height of the latter (1600 ft. above Luz) that it was +nearly one o'clock when we pulled up at the Cercle des Etrangers--the +only specimen of a hotel or cafe open--for our lunch. + +After a pleasant meal we made a move to inspect the town and its +environs, and were not long in forming an opinion, at any rate, on the +former, which we think most visitors at this season of the year would +be inclined to endorse. One long ascending street lined with houses all +shut up, occasional breaks where a narrow alley or the roads to the +hospitals and promenades branched off, the bathing establishments under +much-needed repair, the dirty-looking river dashing down behind, on the +left; the beech boughs clad in dead leaves rustling on the slopes, in +the opposite direction; and a few natives here and there, very untidy +and sleepy-looking, as though with difficulty awaking from the +"dormouse" state, complete the picture of Bareges, which we need hardly +add is in itself a most desolate and dreary-looking place. In +mid-summer, with the sun shining and the trees in full leaf, an +improvement in the scene would be noticeable; but very few, except +invalids specially recommended for a course of the waters, are at +anytime likely to stay there more than a few hours. + +[Illustration: BAREGES.] + +We took the road leading up, to the right of the "Grand Etablissement," +to the Promenade Horizontale, the great summer rendezvous, and passing +the "Hospice de Ste. Eugenie" began the ascent up the easy zigzags of +the "Allee Verte." We had not made much progress when we startled, from +what was doubtless a contemplative mood, a very fine jay. He did not +seem to like the disturbance at all, but kept flying from branch to +branch in the vicinity, repeatedly uttering his guttural cries. + +As the tenor of his thoughts--uttered in rather a shrill treble--seemed +to bear considerably on topics of general interest, in spite of the +apparent selfishness that was the key-note of the whole, we think it +expedient to let posterity enjoy the enlightenment we received from + +"THE JAY OF BAREGES." + + Lawks a mussy! and shiver my feathers! + Why this is a wonderful sight; + In spite of my earnest endeavours, + I can't quite get over my fright. + + 'Tis so long since the strangers departed, + They ne'er would return, I had thought; + So no shame at their coming I started, + Though perchance I felt worse than I ought. + + Still to think through the days cold and lonely + I've wandered about at my will, + With no one to chase me, and only + The need to prevent getting chill. + + Well, I say--when I think of the quiet + And rest that is now at its close-- + I have doubts of enduring the riot + After such a long time of repose. + + It is not that I hate to see pleasure, + It is not that the world I detest; + But I like to have comfort and leisure, + And not to be teased and oppress'd. + + I don't mind the smell from the fountains, + --Though a rotten-egg scent is not sweet-- + For I always can fly to the mountains + And seek some umbrageous retreat. + + Then the season for shooting is over, + So the sportsmen[1] will leave me alone, + And I'll pose as a Go(u)ld Jay in clover, + Avoiding a _dollar_ous tone. + + To my doctor, perhaps, 'twould be better + The final decision to leave; + And I'll follow his choice to the letter, + He's a bird I can always believe. + + That reminds me 'tis time for my dinner, + And as I don't wish it to wait, + As sure as I'm saint and no sinner, + I'll be off at my very best rate. + +[Footnote 1: The jay, with all its sophistry, did not apparently know +that French sportsmen only kill what they can eat, and therefore its +fears would in any case have been groundless.] + +And with a concluding chuckle the bright bird disappeared. We were by +this time beyond the "Forest Administration" hut, and close upon the +snow, which lay in narrow but deep drifts among the trees, the wood +anemones and fine hepaticas growing in groups close by. + +As we gradually progressed, the snow occupied the greater part of the +way, and we were forced to betake ourselves to the extreme edge; and +when at last we emerged into the Vallee de Lienz, trees and branches +had to be scrambled over to avoid a wetting, although we were obliged +to cross one or two drifts after all. Getting clear of the trees, we +came in full view of the imposing Pic de Lienz (7501 ft.) on the left, +and the rounded summit of the Pic d'Ayre (7931 ft.). Passing the two +cabins constructed among the rocks in the open, we crossed the swift +brook and began the ascent of the inferior but well-wooded hill below +the Pic de Lienz. There is no proper path up to this Pic (as to most +others), and the grass is rather bad for walking; but the views up the +valley to the mighty Pic de Neouville (10,146 ft.), and the whole range +behind the Pic d'Ayre, are very grand. We only went to the bend just +before the summit of the Col, resting awhile among a huge pile of +boulders, brightened by bushes of the mountain rhododendron, before +commencing to descend. A fine specimen of the rather rare _Anemone +vernalis_ was a prize that fell to us as we carefully balanced +ourselves on the slippery tufts which so often, carrying the feet along +at an increased speed, cause the owner to find himself rather +unpleasantly acquainted with mother earth. However, we reached the huts +again in safety, and made considerably shorter cuts on our way back to +the town, encountering a solitary sheep with a very young lamb at one +of our sharp turns. + +We arrived at the cafe just in time for tea, and then the horses were +put in and we rattled back, having, in spite of the barrenness of +Bareges, spent a very pleasant day. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +ST. SAUVEUR. + +Pont de Pescadere--Sassis--Gave de Gavarnie--St. Sauveur--Hotel de +France--Pont Napoleon--Napoleon's pillar--Bee orchids--Chapel of +Solferino--The view from thence--Ne'er a hermit but for gold--Luz +Cemetery--Luz Post Office--Short cuts--Pharmacie Claverie--Jardin a +l'Anglaise--Ascent of Pic de Bergons--Villenave--The shepherds' +huts--Lunch--Snow, its use and abuse--On foot--"Excelsior"--Dangerous +footing--The last crest but one--The view--Gavarnie and Argeles in +sight--A lazy guide--A "fast" bit--Mountain flowers--Mr. Sydney to the +fore--A short walk and a good view--To Sazos and Grust--The bathing +establishments--Sazos: the old church--The belfry--Chiming +extraordinary--Various promenades--Gems of hill and vale. + + +At the bridge known as the Pont de Pescadere the road from Pierrefitte +forks; the branch to the left leads to Luz, while the road to St. +Sauveur branches off to the right, and passes through the village of +Sassis, above which is the more important one of Sazos. Then, keeping +to the riverside till within half a mile of the town, it throws out a +branch over the Gave de Gavarnie to Luz, and bending in the opposite +direction, winds steeply past the baths to the hotels. + +Like many of the villages in Japan, and especially along the great +Nakasendo, St. Sauveur possesses one single street. The resemblance +continues further with the fine scenery, but there it ends. The look of +the houses and the comfort of the Hotel de France find, alas! no +parallel yet in the interior of that wonderful country. + +[Illustration: ST. SAUVEUR.] + +We came to St. Sauveur direct without stopping at Luz, but as the +latter is the larger town--in fact the mainstay of the former, and also +the nearer to Pierrefitte--we have given it precedence. For situation +and all other qualifications, except as a residence in winter, St. +Sauveur easily bears away the palm. The morning after our arrival, when +the sun was shining brightly, we walked up through the remainder of the +diminutive town to the Pont Napoleon, one of the most remarkable +bridges in the Pyrenees. The bridge itself is 216 feet above the river, +and sixty-nine feet wide; but it is not so much the construction +--though that is well carried out--as the position, which +especially attracts on a lovely spring morning. The river, of a +beautiful light green tint, wandering down the valley towards +Pierrefitte, the trees with varied foliage crowding the slopes above, +the glimpse of Saint Sauveur with its church, and the hills with the +snowpeaks beyond, on either side--made such a glorious _ensemble_ +as we were not slow to appreciate. + +[Illustration: PONT NAPOLEON, ST. SAUVEUR.] + +But this was not all--nor nearly all--for not only had we the view of +the grand rocky gorge from which the river issues above, but we could +also take the easy gradient down to the riverside itself, which leads +from the near side of the bridge, as well as survey the loveliness from +the terrace at the base of the arch, on the side beyond. Having crossed +this fine piece of engineering, and passed the pillar surmounted by an +eagle erected in honour of Napoleon III. and the Empress Eugenie, we +found the road led at right angles in both directions. The one to the +right, to Gavarnie, we hoped to take thither later; the one to the +left, leading to Luz, we followed there and then. After curving once or +twice within view of the bridge, it bifurcates, forming an upper and a +lower route, both of which lead to Luz, if desired. The lower, which is +the direct route from Gavarnie to Luz, we abstained from taking, +preferring the upper road to the right, which leads past fields +resplendent with flowers (among which the "bee" orchid is noticeable), +to the chapel of Solferino. + +The view from the hill on which the chapel is built is an excellent +one. Looking towards Luz, several small villages may be seen up the +Bareges valley, with the Pic de Mont Aigu, and the Pic d'Ayre (7931 +feet) on the right, and--immediately over against the town--the Pic de +Nere on the left. Looking towards Pierrefitte, other small villages, +and the whole of the Luz valley; on the left, St. Sauveur, and, above +the almost indistinguishable village of Sassis, the Col de Riou, with +the Pic de Viscos beyond. Looking towards the Pont Napoleon, the Pic de +Bergons (6792 ft.) towers up on the left, and on the right may be +easily noted the toothed Pic du Lac Grand the Col d'Aubiste, and the +loftier Pic (8863 ft.) of the same name, besides a glimpse of pastures +and foaming cascades as well. There is very little in the chapel itself +except its history and its cold atmosphere. It is supposed to be an +exact copy of the ancient Hermitage of St. Peter, which formerly stood +on the same spot. The bones of the last good man, for whom "gaieties +had no attraction whatever," and who consequently shut himself up for +"years and years" in the dismal building, were collected by Napoleon +III.'s command, and buried under the statue erected in front. There is +a woman that calls herself the guardian (not angel) of the place, and +demands a small gratuity in exchange for any amount of unnecessary +talking; judging by her appearance, we decided she was _not_ a +hermit nor a particularly small eater either, though her stature was +decidedly diminutive. Two tracks lead from this hill to Luz. One +winding down on the left forms the branch route to St. Sauveur, the +other, to the right--which we took--passes the cemetery, and leaving +the new church in the same direction, leads to the back of the ancient +fane of the Templars, through the town. + +After transacting a little business at the post-office (there is none +at St. Sauveur except in the season), which stands in one of the +principal streets traversed on the route to Bareges, we returned to St. +Sauveur by another way. The ordinary short cut from Luz to St. Sauveur +crosses the bridge over the Gave leaving the Gavarnie road on the left, +and turning sharply up a short distance beyond the river, joins the +high road above the "Pharmacie Clavarie," near an ornamental pillar. +We, however, bore up the Gavarnie road till, reaching a cottage, we +pursued the narrow path obviously conducting to the river, over which a +wooden bridge--whence a pretty view can be obtained,--leads to the +Jardin a l'Anglaise. This garden, much frequented during the summer +months, brought us in turn, by means of zigzags and steps, close to our +hotel, and though it may be slightly longer than the "short cut," we +certainly found it prettier and more agreeable. + +There is one excursion from St. Sauveur, which is not very difficult +nor laborious, and which well repays the certain amount of exertion +that is at all times associated with ascents. This is the ascent of the +Pic de Bergons. Although we could tell before we started that the snow +would prevent us from reaching the summit, we nevertheless had hopes of +arriving very near it; and finding a beautiful day, as it were, staring +us in the face, we ordered round the horses and a somewhat aged guide, +and were in motion by ten o'clock. Reaching the further end of the Pont +Napoleon, we found the path striking off immediately before us, and the +work began. The gradient for several minutes rose rather sharply, and +as the road was anything but a pleasant or even one, the labour for the +horses was considerable; but they went very willingly, until, at our +arrival at a couple of cottages, we halted to give them a few minutes' +rest. + +Until then we had been winding up the face of the hill, but after +leaving the cottages, the track bearing round to the side brought us +above Luz, over which and the whole valley we had a splendid view. Not +far from this point, the path from Luz, _via_ Villenave, joined +in, but no improvement in the general unevenness and stoniness of it +was effected. With a barren gorge on our left, and the green pastures +with the snow-peaks of Bugaret and Maucapera towering behind them, +straight before us, we followed the disagreeable zigzags, our horses +always on the very edge, as though courting our overthrow, till, +finding on reaching the "cabanes" some shepherds kindly and well +disposed, we repaired to the shelter that their cow-house wall +afforded, to eat our lunch. The meal was a success, as such meals, when +the victuals are good and the appetites hearty, usually are, and the +_vin ordinaire_, cooled to a pleasant extent with snow from a +neighbouring drift, tasted like nectar. But the same snow which was so +delightful in the claret, interfered sadly with our locomotion, and +having finished our luncheon, we had next to dispose of our horses, and +commence the rest of the ascent on foot. Striking straight up from the +hut, we soon attained a narrow track winding up the wooded hill to the +left, and without much difficulty or exertion, found ourselves within +view of St. Sauveur, and a great part of the mountains and valleys. +However, we were yet some way from the summit, or even the highest +attainable point (the summit being unattainable on account of snow), so +we pulled ourselves into form, and whispering to one another to have +"courage," we moved upwards again. A small rocky backbone was next +attained, but still the higher crests remained, and seemed to say, +"Excelsior." The guide got lazy, and preferred to study a little +geology to mounting any higher, so we left him to pursue his researches +and strode on. Between the next point, gained after some little work, +and the last crete below the actual summit, several banks of snow lay, +and rendered progress difficult. In two places a sharp decline, with no +chance of clutching anything in case of falling, presented itself to +dull our hopes, but by dint of using the alpenstocks well, and making +deep tracks in the semi-melting snow, we reached the desired crest, +with nothing but the white and inaccessible summit above. The view was +a very fine one, and fully justified all expectations, although our +lazy guide was effectually shut out from our gaze. The miniature town +of St. Sauveur looked like a tiny model, with every accessory that +could add to its charming position. To the left, high above us, the +mighty Barbe de Bouch (9624 ft.) stood out just below the clouds, in +which the still loftier and very stony Pic d'Ardiden (9804 ft.) was +partially hidden. Further in the same direction the familiar forms of +the Pics d'Aubiste and Litouese, and further yet, the Tour and Casque +of the Gavarnie Cirque, stood out as snowy and as clear as the most +eager sightseer could wish. Over the town itself the Pic du Lacgrand, +and down the valley to the right, the Col de Riou and the Pic de +Viscos, were plainly visible; while the town of Argeles and the hills +beyond it, required no glass to point out their position at the end of +the splendid gorge. Over against Luz the Col d'Arbeousse and the Pic de +Nere (7880 ft.); with the Pic Bugaret (8859 ft.), the Maucapera (8893 +ft.), and the massive Mont Arrouye (10,299 ft.), facing them, above the +hut where we had lunched, added their attractions to swell the beauty +of our view. + +When we thought we had really taken in all that we could, we did not +stay on our lofty perch much longer, fearing the result of our guide's +geological researches; however, we found him still fairly well, and +very little less lazy, so took him for a little jolting down a rather +"fast" bit, which not only woke him up, but brought us quickly down to +our shepherd's hut again. Partly riding and partly walking, the rest of +the descent was successfully accomplished, including the gathering of +gentians, bee orchids, mountain violets, and both _Polygalae_; +[Footnote: _Polygala rosea_ and _P. amara._] while Mr. Sydney +triumphed in the very laudable effort of showing the lazy guide how +things could be managed, by arriving at the foot of the mountain some +twenty minutes before him. A very short trot brought us to the hotel in +time for some half-past five tea, having taken seven and a half hours +over our trip, including the hour spent for lunch. + +Between the Hotel de France and the Pont Napoleon a narrow path strikes +up to the right, almost opposite a large white house a short distance +beyond the church; this we found a very pleasant quarter of an hour's +walk, leading by an easy gradient to a good point of view. Box plants, +with their bright leaves here and there changing into a rich red, lined +the way, and many flowers, including gentians, added their charm. From +the rock at which we terminated our walks, a fine view of the Pic de +Bergons, two cascades, the gorge towards Gavarnie and St. Sauveur, the +Pont Napoleon, and a small defile on the immediate right, was our +reward. + +Another pleasant promenade and not a very long one, which we much +enjoyed, was to the villages of Sazos and Grust, in the direction of +the ascent of the Col de Riou and the Pic de Viscos. We followed the +high road down through the town, passing in turn the Roman-like and +commodious baths, the path leading to the Hontalade establishment on +the left, and the Pharmacie Claverie on the right; and just before the +branch route from Luz joins in, took the left track up the side of the +hill. Pretty views of the different valleys unfolded to our gaze as we +continued on our way, while a splendid vista of villages lay before us +when we reached the platform space on which an iron cross is erected, a +short way below Sazos. The village itself, as well as that of Grust, +which lies within easy distance above it, is a quaint, old-fashioned +place. The church is the chief attraction; in fact, immediately Miss +Blunt found herself within the ancient exterior portal, she demanded +paper and pencil, and although all the paper forthcoming was the back +of an envelope and a telegraph form, managed to turn out an efficient +representation of the old Roman fane. In exploring it afterwards at our +leisure, we were struck by several peculiarities which produced mingled +feelings. Inside the doorway, two curious flights of steps lead to the +narrow galleries and the belfry, the final flight being totally devoid +of either "sweetness" or light. Having examined the bells and heard the +clock strike three, we began the descent. In the darkness we certainly +did clutch a vertical rope, but could that simple act--we ask in a +whisper--have had such an unusual effect as causing the clock to repeat +its striking? For, whether or not, before we reached the ground, the +three strokes rang out again. The carving over the altar is good, and +the general effect of the whole church is likewise; but the supposed +model of the grotto at Lourdes, and the awful painting in the side +altar on the left, certainly do not add to its beauty. + +The children regarded us with inquisitive looks as we came away, but +seemed to wish to keep at a safe distance. Whether the double striking +of the clock had had a peculiar effect on them we did not, however, +wait to inquire, but after taking a drink at the fountain, proceeded on +our homeward way. + +Any one making a lengthened stay can find out plenty of similarly +enjoyable walks; in fact, one of St. Sauveur's chief charms lies in its +favourable situation for such pursuits. The neighbourhood is very rich +in flora, small jonquils, daffodils, oxslips, hyacinths, violets, +_polygala, potentilla_, anemones, _Ramondia pyrenaica, Primula +farinosa,_ large and small gentians, _linaria,_ and bee orchids +being among the easiest to find. + +Before we started on the great drive to Luchon, we successfully +accomplished a delightful day's outing to Gavarnie, but as it is full +of interest and majesty, we give it a chapter to itself. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +GAVARNIE. + +A "falling glass"--The wonderful echo--Cascade Lassariou--Sia and its +bridge--Pont de Desdouroucat--"Changing scenes"--Bugaret torrent--The +Pimene--Bue--Gedre--Breche de Roland in the distance--The +"Grotto"--Scenery at fivepence per head--Daffodils--Lofty +summits--Cascade d'Arroudet--Chaos--Valley of the "Ten Thousand Rocks," +Amoy--A dirty avalanche--The Sugar-loaf--Travellers' troubles +--Importunate females--Hotel des Voyageurs--Poc--Guide or no +guide--Chute de Lapaca--The guardian summits of the Cirque--Cascade du +Marbore--Chandelles du Marbore--The Cirque--Its marvellous +beauty--Reluctantly returning--"The Guide's Auction"--"Two women +enough for a market, and three for a fair"--A Yankee tale--Sketching +and flowers--Tempers and appetites. + + +There is no excursion from Luz or St. Sauveur for which it is so +necessary to have a fine day, or which is so wonderfully unique, as +that to the Cirque of Gavarnie. We were forced to wait several days; +the barometer always, stupidly enough, wanting to fall, until on the +third day of the moon it slowly began to rise, and gave us hopes for a +start on the following morning. The following morning arrived, and with +it a heavy fall of snow, decking the hills quite low down with a white +mantle, and gloomily screening the view. + +However, about nine o'clock, the sun burst forth, the clouds rose, the +blue sky appeared, and we felt that our opportunity had come. The lunch +and the landau, with four horses, were ordered for ten o'clock, and at +10.15 we were on our way. Through the town, past the church and over +the fine Pont Napoleon we went, our hearts--eager to appreciate +--finding no lack of food. + +Keeping along the base of the Pic de Bergons, with the Pic du Lac Grand +rivalling it on the other side of the defile, we soon sighted the chasm +and cascade of Rioumaou on our left, and reached the Pas de l'Echelle. +At 1 metre 50 centimetres, or 43/4 feet, from the extremity of the +ornamental facing which marks the place, we pulled up, to try the +magnificent echo, and were in no way disappointed. Our voices came back +particularly clearly, but from the coach-box the sound was stronger. On +ahead again, still by the base of the Pic de Bergons, with the mighty +Col and Pic d'Aubiste (8863 ft.) majestic across the river; till, at +the foot of the Pic, where the sparkling Cascade de Lassariou comes +tumbling down, the wretched hamlet of Sia, with its "quatre moulins" +and very fine bridge, broke into view. Traversing the Pont de +Sia--distant about three miles from Luz and built when the new road was +made two years ago--we kept the right side of the Gave, and, with the +Pic de Litouese towering above us, reached the Pont de Desdouroucat (4 +3/8 miles), and again passed to the opposite bank, leaving the remains +of the old route on the side whence we came. The sky was clearing more +and more, and before us, over Gavarnie, it was one pure expanse of +blue. The gorge was very wild, but with a wildness of piled-up crags +and blackened sides that the beautiful winding river and the spring +tints helped to beautify and subdue. Presently the massive Brada, up +the grand Gorge de Bacheviron, came in sight on our left, and as we +passed the insignificant hamlet of Pragneres (43/4 miles), where the +torrent of Bugaret dashes down into the Gave, the Brada looked more +massive still. Thus it continued all along the route, every bend of the +road bringing something new--whether a cascade, a valley, or a lofty +peak, always something to claim attention and praise. At such a bend, +shortly after quitting Pragneres, the great snow-crowned Pimene (9193 +ft.) seemed to bar the way; while at another, the hamlet of Bue and the +Col de Bue appeared on the right, and at another, again, Mont Ferrat +(10,575 ft.), up the Heas valley on the left. Not very much further, +when bending into Gedre, we obtained a splendid glimpse of La Tour and +La Casque du Marbore and the Breche de Roland. Gedre (8 miles), like +all the rest of the villages or hamlets in the vicinity, is a +miserable, poverty-stricken-looking place, but with picturesque +surroundings. It is a good centre for numerous excursions--notably that +to the Cirque de Troumouse--and possesses an excellent botanist as +well as a celebrated grotto. + +[Footnote: The grotto's notoriety is gained, perhaps, by its imposture; +it is in reality no grotto, but a very pretty bit of scenery +nevertheless, on a fine day.] + +Stopping at the house by the bridge, we were escorted by the good woman +into her garden and down some steps to a platform, whence the so-called +grotto was to be surveyed. It is a very picturesque spot. The lofty +walls of perpendicular rock, the overhanging bushes and flowers, the +trees above, the field beyond, and the blue water of the Gave de Heas +foaming beneath, are charming enough, with the aid of rays of sunlight, +to make the spot famous, and the good woman chuckle as she pockets the +half-franc per head. + +[Illustration: THE VILLAGE OF GEDRE.] + +Starting again, we commenced the zigzag ascent past the church--the +road winding among fields golden with daffodils, mingling here and +there with the lovely blue of the gentians and the pink _Primula +farinosa_--towards the base of the Coumelie, the mule-path to the +Cirque de Troumouse leading through a field above us, as we reached the +zigzag's top. Still gently ascending round the foot of the Coumelie, +the pointed summit of the lofty Taillon (10,323 ft.) came into view +ahead, with the grandiose Campbieil (10,418 ft.) up the Heas valley; +and the Pic de Saugue immediately above on the right, from whose height +the splendid Cascade d'Arroudet, dashing past the shepherds' cottages, +launches its foaming showers into the river below. A few more graceful +curvings of the road and we entered the region so aptly termed "Chaos." +Attributed to an earthquake at the end of the fourteenth century, +rightly or wrongly, the fact nevertheless remains that one of the huge +buttresses of the Coumelie became detached from the main summit, and +dashed down in enormous blocks to the valley below. There they lie, the +road passing between, in the wildest and most indescribable confusion. +Here a heap piled one above another, there a mighty shoulder split in +twain by a conical fragment which rests in the breach that it made; +some towering above the road, others blocking the river below, a few +isolated and many half-buried; but all combining to form as wild and +wonderful a chaos as the eye could wish to gaze on, but which the pen +must fail to describe. Far away on the shores of China, at the port of +Amoy, is another scene which, though it must yield the palm to this, is +nevertheless one of a similarly wild nature. The "Valley of the Ten +Thousand Rocks," as the spot is called, in the midst of which stands a +joss-house (or temple), may be reached in a pleasant walk from the +harbour of Amoy, by way of the wonderful Rocking Stone, and along paths +lined with aloes and cacti. There the grass grows between the confusion +of boulders, and the Chinamen's incense ascends to the blue sky; but +these points of difference from the Chaos of Gavarnie, though tending +to subdue part of the barren wildness, nevertheless still leave a +resemblance between the two scenes that is worthy of record. + +[Illustration] + +Leaving this "boulder" region behind us, we passed through a huge +avalanche that stood in frozen filthiness far above the carriage on +each side of the road, while immediately over us on the left rose the +mountain from which it had come--rightly named the Sugar-loaf--and +opposite, on the right, the serrated summit of the Soum de Secugnac +(8442 ft.). + +At this point one of the many nuisances which ought to be classed under +the head of "Travellers' Troubles," commenced. In the distance, but +coming swiftly towards us, or rather as swiftly as a broken-winded, +raw-boned, jolting apology-for-a-horse would allow, was _a_ woman, +and alas! in her train were several others; a few on or with donkeys, +but more on foot. In vain we told them that we would engage no donkeys +at all, and no horses till we reached our destination; in vain we bade +them allow us to "pursue the even tenor of our way" in peace, and hush +their high soprano tones. It was one perpetual babble in praise of +their horses, their donkeys, and their capabilities as guides, with the +constant repetition of the names of the surrounding peaks, which we +already knew perfectly well. When we reached the gorge which opens up +on the right, as though the earth had been split by some mighty shock, +and through which the majestic Vignemale (10,821 ft.) was perfectly +visible, the storm of voices directing our attention to the sight was +as loud as it was unsolicited. But happily we were then close to +Gavarnie, and crossing the bridge with a momentary glimpse at the +Cirque, we drew up at the door of the Hotel des Voyageurs. + +After lunching and engaging our steeds, with an intelligent guide, who +answered to the euphonious name of "Poc," we left the greatly +disappointed donkey women still making a terrible clamour, and started +for the Cirque. + +As far as finding out the proper route goes, and that is a long way, no +guide whatever is required, but in order to learn the names of the +various peaks and other interesting facts, it is distinctly necessary +to have one, unless the traveller possesses a very elaborate plan of +the vicinity. + +Leaving the new bridge to the left, as well as a very ancient one, and +the plashing fall known as the "Chute de Lapaca," we turned round in +the opposite direction, and passing the "Hotel de la Cascade" and a +wooden hut, again turned to the left, down what, though an execrable +road, led, nevertheless, to the object of our desires. At this turn the +Pic d'Aspe reared above us on the right, succeeded by barren hills +covered with loose stones, but as we proceeded, the famous central +excursion--the Pimene (9193 ft.)--came in sight on the opposite side, +followed by the Breche d'Allanz, the Pic Rouge de Pailla (9107 ft.), +Pic d'Astazou (10,106 ft.), the Cylindre (10,916 ft), and even the +Marbore (9964 ft.) itself. + +Between the Marbore and the Epaule de Marbore (10673 ft.), nearer the +centre of the Cirque, the celebrated Cascade du Marbore, (1380 ft. in +height) dashes during the warmer months. The curious summits known as +La Tour (9902 ft.) and La Casque (9862 ft.), almost equidistant from +the centre of the Cirque, on opposite sides, stood clearly before us, +with the snow lying below each in the serrated shapes which give rise +to the term "Chandelles du Marbore." The Breche de Roland was--as it +always is from this view--invisible, hidden behind the Pic de Sarradets +(8993 ft.); but the Fausse Breche beyond, and more to the right the +magnificent Taillon (10,323 ft.), and the Pic de Gabietou, with the +Port de Gavarnie--a peculiar shoulder-like rock, below them +both--filled up the semicircle in all its wonderful entirety. When at +last we reached the point whence the whole can be viewed to most +advantage, we did not require the assertion of the guide that we were +in enjoyment of one of the best days of the year, to increase our +admiration and delight. + +The amphitheatre, standing before us like the ruins of some mighty +arena, in which the throngs of eager men and women and the blood of the +dying gladiator had long given place to the purifying snow; the summits +around uplifted towards the blue sky; the cascade, no longer dashing as +full of life and hope, but frozen in its course and hanging in icicles +between the rocks; the few uncovered crags scattered here and there, +relieving the dazzling whiteness of the "glace eternelle"; the sparse +trees down the outer slopes struggling to free themselves from their +winter cloak; the cloud of frost scintillating in the sunlight as a +mass of loosened snow rushed into the depths below;--was not such a +scene as this, presented to our gaze in unveiled splendour, more than +sufficient to bewilder in the intensity of its majesty and loveliness? + +Yet even this was not all. The silence, the solemn and perfect silence, +that reigned over the whole, only broken by the dull sound of the +falling avalanche or the shrill voice of the restless crow, was so +evident and so powerful, and combined so impressively with the +marvellous beauty of the surroundings, that the heart could not fail to +recognise the sublimity of Nature and the omnipotence of Nature's God! + +We stayed there for a long time, and with great reluctance turned our +horses' heads from the scene; while even when we had done so, we +stopped at nearly every bend of the road for another look. + +[Illustration: THE CIRQUE OF GAVARNIE (IN SUMMER).] + +The exact distance from the hotel to the extreme end of the Cirque is +calculated at 33/4 miles, but we traversed little more than two-thirds +of that distance, on account of the depth of the avalanches, which were +then melting far too quickly to allow of dry walking any further. + +Arriving again at the hotel, the chatter of the women over some new +arrivals was as deafening as ever. Our good guide Poc considered it was +not to be borne any longer, so having counted the women and their +asses, he cleared a space in preparation for a mock sale at which they +were all to be put up, and having got us in front as make-believe +purchasers, proceeded with the business, which we called + + "THE GUIDE'S AUCTION." + + This way, sirs, this way! Will you please to walk up? + The auction I'm ready to start: + I'm instructed to sell all these valuable lots, + And the bidding I hope will be smart. + + You see by the catalogue, forty clear lots-- + Thirty women; ten asses; some small. + To proceed then, we'll take them, sirs, just as they are, + Say forty fine donkeys in all. + + They've plenty of sinew, and as to their voice, + I think about that you well know. + The first lot then, gents; shall we say fifteen francs? + Well then, ten; but that's rather too low. + + In our country for ladies we've heaps of respect, + But we've fully enough and to spare; + And we know that "two women a market will make, + And that three are enough for a fair."[1] + + + * * * * * + + Now then, gents, please be sharp! No advance? No advance? + The candle[2] burns fast to the end. + Ten francs for this wonderful native--ten francs! + Why, surely, that's nothing to spend! + + No bidding? Good gracious! Why what shall I do + To oblige you? I'll class them as one: + Now what do you say for the whole forty lots? + Make a bid, sirs, I want to have done. + + Fifty francs for the lot; see the candle's nigh out: + Fifty francs, take them all as they rise. + What! No one will buy them? Alas! I must say + You're all most uncommonly wise. + + They clamour and chatter the whole of the day, + I believe they snore loudly at night; + Oh, if only a Barnum would take them away, + You don't know how I'd dance with delight! + +[Footnote 1: His exact words were, "Dans mon pays, monsieur, nous +disons qu'il faut trois femmes pour faire une foire, et deux pour un +marche."] + +[Footnote 2: Alluding to the custom in France of burning bits of candle +to denote the time in which the bidding may proceed; usually when the +third piece goes out the bidding for the special lot is finished, and +the next is proceeded with.] + +This last verse was very easy to understand, as the women are always +anxious to obtain occupation for a lesser remuneration[1] than the +qualified guides, who naturally dislike this interference between them +and their earnings, although no bad feeling really exists on the +matter. + +[Footnote 1: There is a good tale told, _a propos_ of this, of a +gentleman in San Francisco who wanted some wood chopped. An American +offered to do it for a dollar, but a Chinaman asked only half. The +gentleman, thinking it best to help his own countryman, gave the Yankee +the job; but happening to pass the yard during the day, he found the +Chinaman busily at work. "Hullo!" cried he, "I didn't give the job to +you. Who told you to cut this wood?" "Melican man" (American man), +responded the pigtailer. "And how much is he paying you?" "Hap dollar," +replied the Celestial. And the swell went away resolved never to help +his countryman again.] + +After an enjoyable kettledrum, the tea being our own and made under +personal supervision, Miss Blunt perched herself on a hillock to +sketch, and Mr. Sydney explored the neighbourhood for flowers, of which +gentians were the principal object of his search. Both having in a +certain degree attained their ends, we started again at half-past four, +and after a pleasant drive, which lasted two hours instead of +three--the time occupied in coming--we reached our quarters in the best +of tempers and not with the worst of appetites. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +FROM LUZ AND ST. SAUVEUR TO BAGNERES DE LUCHON. + +A smiling valley--Lourdes again--The chapel in the crypt--St. Peter's +statue--Burnished toes--Solemn quietude--Preparing for the great +pilgrimage--"Ornamented" crosses--Mr. Sydney's new vocation, "guide, +philosopher, and friend"--Bigorre again--An open-air concert +--Harmonious echoes--Paying through the nose--The fete at +Payole--Sport a la francaise--Costumes--The view from the Col d'Aspin-- +Arreau--Quaint houses--La Chapelle de St. Exupere--A whining +"gardien"--Eglise de Notre Dame--The River Neste--Hotel de +France--Borderes--Avajan--Louderville--Oxslips and cowslips--Wild +narcissus--Col de Peyresourde--The view--Garin--Cazaux--St. +Aventin--Lovely avenues--Our destination. + + +With a morning as lovely as the day of our arrival had been dreary, we +left at 9.15 for Bagneres de Bigorre, the first part of our long drive. +The valley, more fully clothed than it was a week ago, looked so fresh +in the warm sunlight, with the river winding along, that we felt very +loath to leave. The gorge below, all the way to Pierrefitte, added its +share of beauty, and the graceful white heath growing up its sides +loaded the air with a sweet scent. The wide expanse of the Argeles +valley, with the busy farmers ploughing, sowing, or cutting the heavy +clover crop; the lazy oxen ever patiently plodding beneath their heavy +burdens; the Chateau de Beaucens--where the orchids grow--perched up on +the hillside; the surrounding peaks throwing off their snowy garb; and +the beautiful young leaves and tints, everywhere mingling with the +brightness of the flowers blooming on the slopes or amid the waving +grasses, made a scene as picturesque as it was charming. + +Compared with the scenery so far, the remainder of the drive to +Lourdes, which we reached in three hours from the time of starting, +though full of many pleasant corners in which the river heightened the +effect, was nevertheless not so fine; but Lourdes itself looked more +attractive than on our former visit. After lunch, while the horses were +resting, we drove in a local milord [Footnote: A kind of victoria.] to +the church, as we had omitted before to visit the chapel built in the +crypt underneath. In the entrance is the fine bronze statue of St Peter +clasping the key, similar to the one in Rome both in size and in the +highly-burnished appearance of the toes of the right foot, for which +latter the affectionate pilgrims are answerable. On either side of the +statue a corridor lined with marble tablets--presented by "grateful" +individuals in acknowledgment of cures and cleansings--and dotted with +confessional boxes, leads down to the chapel. The repulsive gaudiness +of the tinsel display in the church above it is almost absent here, and +though the same exaltation of the Virgin over our Saviour is manifest, +yet otherwise this chapel, with its vaulted roof and its quietude, +seems far more fitted for meditation and prayer. + +Taking the easy gradient at the west end of the church, between the +grassy slopes planted with lilacs and other shrubs and trees, we +arrived at the grotto. A huge platform was in course of erection, for +the great pilgrimage expected from England in about a week, and the +noise of the workmen combined with the sparse gathering of +"worshippers" detracted greatly from the former pitiable solemnity of +the scene, though the stand of candles was flaring with light, and the +crutches, in their horrid rows, were still there. + +We left Lourdes again at three o'clock, the sun still very warm, as the +lazy attitudes of the peasants working in the fields attested; and, +passing several crosses at the roadside--"ornamented" with pincers, +hammer, nails, and sword, with a bantam cock on the top--reached the +base of the col (600 feet high) which separates the respective basins +of the Adour and the Echez. Half-way up the hill we discovered Mr. +Sydney, who had walked on ahead, very busy with a team of oxen, towards +which, having encountered them without a driver, he had taken upon +himself to act as "guide, philosopher, and friend"; and by dint of +great application of his umbrella, open and shut, in the last-mentioned +capacity, he brought them to, and kept them at, a standstill by the +side of the road till the carriage passed. + +From the top of the hill we enjoyed an extensive view, the Pic du Midi +de Bigorre standing out wonderfully clear. Descending again, we joined +the Tarbes road crowded with market carts, and leaving the village of +Montgaillard on the left, duly arrived at Bagneres de Bigorre, where we +were received with open arms by Monsieur and Madame Bourdette. + +The morrow being Sunday, was spent in resting, the magnificent weather +still continuing. The trees on the Coustous and the different hills +around were at length well covered with foliage, and gave a prettier +appearance to the town, which the ever-flowing streams by the +roadsides greatly added to. In the evening the Orpheon (or local Choral +Society) gave an open-air concert from the roof of one of the Coustous +cafes. A tremendous crowd of some 2000 persons had gathered under the +trees to listen, and kept perfectly still while the songs proceeded. +The solos were not particularly wonderful, but the beautiful blending +of the voices in the Pyrenean part-songs was a very great treat, and +the sounds, floating deliciously away on the soft evening air, could be +heard like some whispering echo for a long distance. + +[Illustration: ] + +We had some difficulty in arranging for a carriage, on the following +day, for Luchon, as a great number had been engaged for the fete at +Payole, and for those not yet taken high prices--considering the time +of year--were asked. Not wishing, however, to lose a day, we settled +for a landau and three horses to do the journey in two days--for 110 +francs, including _pourboire_--stopping the night at Arreau. The +day broke, like its predecessors, perfectly fine, and at 10.30 we made +our adieus to Bigorre, and were on our way. + +The scenery all the way to Payole was more charming than when we drove +there [Footnote: See pages 40-44.] previously, and on our arrival at +the Hotel de la Poste there was a considerable difference visible +there. The courtyard was filled with carriages, and a busy throng +buzzed about the doors, while the windows were occupied by a variety of +forms. Having with great difficulty secured utensils, we unearthed the +lunch, and proceeded with our meal at a side-table. The participators +in the fete, who were all men, occupied the centre table, and others +were at the side. The noise they made was not appetising, and though +they mixed wines considerably, their jokes did not improve; yet the +scene was a very typical one of "Frenchmen out for a holiday." After +our repast, we adjourned to see the fete, and a wonderful treat it was! +Tame rabbits and fowls, fastened to a stake driven into the hillside, +some 90 to 100 yards from the road, were the targets, at which a +perpetual round of shots soon commenced. Double-barrelled guns loaded +with ball were the usual weapons; one or two single-barrelled pieces +and a rifle or two being occasionally seen. + +The marksmen seemed peculiarly poor ones, from the country lad, or the +genuine 'Arry, with huge check clothes, to the moustached "masher," +with tight trousers and rounded jacket. About one "poulet" in fifty +shots succumbed, and a white rabbit's dismissal was received with loud +acclamations. + +At 2.30, exactly two hours after our arrival, we were off again, and +soon entered the pine forest. It looked very bonny in the bright +sunlight, while the view from the Col d'Aspin was singularly +felicitous. Not a cloud anywhere. The mighty Posets, the Pic d'Arbizon, +and the other snow-crowned heights, softened by distance and beautified +by the tints in the foreground, stood out against the azure sky in all +their splendour. + +The Aure valley, as we descended, and the tiny hamlet of Aspin, looked +very peaceful and lovely; in fact, the whole of the extensive +scene--considered one of the finest to be enjoyed by driving in the +Pyrenees--seemed to spread out its charms before us. + +Winding down the splendid road, Arreau was soon in view, and at 4.30 we +drove under the portico of the Hotel de France, somewhat dusty, but +wholly pleased. With some time to spare before dinner, we set out to +explore this wonderfully quaint, and--though dirty--strikingly +picturesque old town. A road leads from the courtyard of the hotel +straight to the very ancient-looking market-place and the river, at +which point the latter is crossed by a very old wooden bridge. +Traversing this, and passing several curious houses with verandahs +reaching over the street, we found ourselves at the ancient Chapelle de +St. Exupere, built during the 9th and 10th centuries, but now restored. +The windows are of fine stained glass, and the view from the belfry +tower, over the peculiar old town--with its curious turrets and roofs, +whose best days have long passed--is worth the somewhat arduous mount +to get to it. The peasant girl who stands inside the door, and in a +sing-song voice that never varies mixes up saints, fathers, towns, +corn, potatoes, bells, and "quelque chose pour le gardien," in her +rigmarole, was the least attractive adjunct of the venerable pile! + +Down a little alley, across the river, directly opposite the church, +Miss Blunt discovered a suitable spot for a sketch, [Footnote: +Unhappily this sketch was afterwards lost, so cannot be reproduced] and +on the production of materials and a chair from a neighbouring grocer's +she set to work, and in spite of the nearness--we might say the "too +odoriferous nearness "--of a dust-heap, a drain, and a swarm of midges, +she gallantly pursued her task till it reached a highly satisfactory +termination. + +Leaving the "ambrosial spot" (Jupiter save us!) we followed the road +leading past the old market-place at right angles to the wooden bridge, +and reached the church of Notre Dame. Though more modern than the +"Chapelle," it is at least three centuries old, having been built on +the ruins of the one originally erected in the 12th century. The wooden +reredos behind the altar, and other wooden carvings, seemed especially +good, but the cure, jingling a bunch of keys, preceded by an abbe, +seemed anxious to see us depart; so we prematurely left. Strolling back +through the town, and over the stone bridge that spans the Neste, we +walked for a short distance on the other side, and then past the +post-office and the Hotel du Midi, to our own quarters for dinner. The +Hotel de France, as it is called, is the best in Arreau, but is +nevertheless not much more than a fairly large country inn. The rooms +are very clean, and the food good, but the arrangements are somewhat +primitive; yet for all this we were very well satisfied on the whole, +though the necessity of starting at nine o'clock next morning prevented +us indulging in rhapsodies. + +When we left the courtyard and passed through the back part of the town +by the old church, the sky was still of the same lovely hue, though +unhappily there was hardly a breath of wind. Notwithstanding that +Arreau is charmingly placed, and that the trees were fairly forward +there, we soon found at a very slight increase of altitude that this +was not to last; in fact, almost at once after passing Borderes (2-1/4 +miles)--an old village with a castle of Jean V., a change was +apparent. Two miles further brought us to the insignificant hamlet of +Avajan, and another three of continual ascent to the outskirts of +Louderville (3280 ft.), with its old watch-tower (14th cent.) and cool +cascade. Here we had a fine view of the valley below, and passed fields +covered with oxslips, cowslips, and other flowers; while lower down, +meadow after meadow was whitened by the lovely wild narcissus. +Following at a very easy pace the long zigzags (two hours and a half +from Arreau), we reached the highest point of the road at the Port or +Col de Peyresourde [Footnote: 35 miles from Bigorre, n. from Arreau.] +(5070 ft), whence the view, though much more limited than that from the +Col d'Aspin, extends over the valleys of Louron and Arboust, and many +snow-peaks as well. + +As we descended the splendid winding road at a rattling pace, with the +slipper on the wheel, we quickly left barren trees and slopes behind, +and even at Garin, that curious village built among the rocks, the +silver birches were opening their leaves. Passing in turn the villages +of Cazaux, with its 12th century church, and St. Aventin, with its +double-towered church of a similar date, also, we sped under most +splendid avenues of sycamore, elm, lime, and ash, past dashing streams +and bright flower-clothed slopes--always descending--till we entered +Luchon: Luchon surrounded by magnificent hills, Luchon guarded by the +distant but ever-majestic snow summits, Luchon bathed in the scent of +lilac and other sweets, Luchon cooled and beautified by avenues and +squares of bright trees, and by gardens filled with the loveliest of +shrubs and flowers. Such was the Luchon presented to us as we drove +through the splendid streets and reached our hotel. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +BAGNERES DE LUCHON. + +The bathing establishment and its surroundings--The lovely +_Allees_--Montauban church and cascade--The Villa Russe and its +genial host--Various excursions--Orphanage of Notre Dame de Rocher--The +Vallee du Lys--The Rue d'Enfer and cascades--A lively scene--The view +from Superbagneres--Loading wood--"The Oxen's Appeal"--Visit to the +Orphanage--A "holy" relic--To Bosost--St. Mamet--"A Stumbling-block" +--Cascade of Sidonie--Horse tricks and jockey dodges--Lizards in +flight--Fashion on a donkey--On the Portillon 'twixt France and +Spain--The Valley of Aran--Snug Bosost--A curious inn--Children with +artistic bent--A bright pathway--Missing much, but thankful still. + + +The most delightful of weather throughout our stay doubtless added +greatly to our enjoyment of Luchon, and our willingness to agree with +its title as "The Pearl of the Pyrenees "; and, in fact, to all people +but those who love dust, noise, and fashion, this month of May is the +pleasantest time of the year to go, see, and be happy. + +The great bathing establishment, situated as it is in a lovely garden +(Quinconces) with a charming lake overhung with the graceful weeping +willows, and under the wooded sides of Superbagneres, seems to invite +one to enter and bathe. When we looked in, very little business was +going on, and one of the attendants, in the hope of receiving a small +coin, was nothing loath to show us round. + +It is the largest and most efficiently arranged of all the Pyrenean +establishments, and can accommodate over 200 people at the same time; +"douche" baths, swimming baths, ordinary baths, rooms for inhaling, +rooms for "pulverisation," seemed to succeed one another with unending +rapidity, as we followed our guide down long corridors or up flights of +stairs; and when at last it was all over, and he had quietly and +contentedly pocketed his coin, we felt as though we had been taking +quite a long walk. + +[Illustration: "THE 'PEARL' IN THE PEERLESS VALLEY."] + +The Allee d'Etigny--the principal street--and all the other +_allees_, notably the Allee des Bains, make most delightful +promenades, even in the heat of the day, so delightful is the shade +afforded by the trees that line the way on either side. To walk from +the "Thermes" along the Allee des Bains, turning into the Casino +gardens, or continuing further--leaving the "Chute de la Pique" on the +right--along the riverside till the road to Montauban cuts it at right +angles, is a most delicious evening stroll. We prolonged this, by +taking the road in question between the poplars up to the village of +Montauban itself; but found more interest in the beautiful new church +than in the waterfall at the back of the village, which is gained by +passing through the good cure's garden, and for which privilege half a +franc is charged. The church, of white stone, very symmetrically built +and of quite a different architecture from the usual French types, +stands out imposingly at the entrance to the village, backed up by the +tree-clad hills and the cottages beyond. The interior is most chaste +and tasteful, as different from the usual Roman Catholic interior as is +the outside from the general exterior, the texts on the pillars near +the entrance being quite an unusual feature. Whether the decoration was +not yet finished, and the tinsel therefore not yet arrived, we could +not learn; but are afraid it is only too probable, as the church, as it +stood, might have been one of our own; for even the gilt pulpit +harmonised so well with the rest, that it did not detract from the +religious and solemn effect, while the light through the +finely-coloured windows threw a softening glimmer over all. + +[Illustration: THE CHURCH OF MONTAUBAN.] + +We returned by a short cut through the fields on the left and the +garden of the Villa Russe, whose owner, "charmant et gentil," not only +showed us all over, but very kindly invited us to a strawberry feast a +month hence--which sorrowfully we had to decline--as well as making us +free of his garden and fields, the latter being filled with the +sweet-scented narcissus. + +The Hotel Canton, in which we were staying, was very conveniently +situated and comfortable. While standing in a quiet part of the Rue +d'Espagne it was close to the post-office and casino on the one hand, +and the bathing establishment and the Jardin des Quinconces on the +other. Moreover, the stables of Jean Sanson--a most excellent guide for +all excursions--were close at hand, and his horses would be difficult +to beat; while his son Luis is experienced in all trips and ascents, +not only in the vicinity, but over a large part of the Pyrenees. + +The new casino, barely three years old, is situated in as charming a +quarter as could well be imagined, for besides possessing a finely +laid-out garden with many fine shrubs and trees, it is bounded by three +beautiful _allees_ as well. As previously mentioned, it can be +gained by the Allee des Bains, but the most direct way to the building +itself, from our hotel, was by keeping to the right along the Rue +d'Espagne and the narrow street beyond (the post-office being to the +left), opposite which a side entrance leads to the imposing edifice. + +The three most popular excursions from Luchon are those to the Port de +Venasque, the mountain pass at the head of the Pique Valley; the Vallee +du Lys and the Cascades; and thirdly, the ascent of Superbagneres. + +The greatest of all, and in truth the greatest in the Pyrenees, is the +ascension of the Pic de Nethou (11,170 ft.), the highest of the range, +and its two great buttresses, the Pics Maladetta (10,867 ft.) and +Milieu (11,044 ft). None but experienced mountaineers, with the most +experienced guides, attempt this ascent, which is attended with much +danger; but there are many other delightful trips in the vicinity, +including a visit to the Spanish village of Bosost; up the Aran valley +to Viella; a drive to the picturesquely-placed St. Beat, or to the old +Roman town of St. Bertrand de Comminges. + +Pleasant walks and drives are probably more numerous from Luchon than +from any other Pyrenean resort, and though we were rather too early in +the year for mountain climbing, the fine weather enabled us to enjoy +several other outings, which we will describe in turn. + +The Vallee du Lys and the Rue d'Enfer make an agreeable picnic, either +in a carriage as far as the "Cabanes du Lys" (6-1/4 miles), and then +horses for the other 3-3/4 miles up to the abyss, the cascades, and the +Rue d'Enfer, or on horseback all the way. We preferred the latter, and +taking a good lunch in the saddle-bags, made a start at the favoured +hour of ten. Under the lee of the Quinconces, past the Hotel Richelieu, +Villa Richelieu, and the elevated Villa Marguerite, and we were fairly +on our way, the air sweetly laden with the scent from the flower-decked +fields and the lilac-trees in the gardens. + +When we passed the little road on the left leading to the Orphanage of +Notre Dame du Rocher, the lilac-scent was very strong; and the position +of the various buildings in connection with the institution seemed so +attractive that we determined to take a stroll there later on. Pursuing +our way, with the restored ruin of the Castelvieil above us on its +"monticule" overlooking the Orphanage, we were soon in a narrower part +of the valley, with the wooded slopes on either side. Then we crossed +the river to the left bank, which we followed until reaching the point +where the road to the Hospice and the Port de Venasque led to the left, +and ours crossed the river by a neat bridge (the Pont de Ravi) to the +right bank again. A little beyond this, the route for Superbagneres +--which we hoped to take another day--struck off among the +trees on the right of the road, which in turn gradually bent in the +same direction all up the beautiful Lys valley, till it again curved in +the opposite direction and arrived at the base of the Cascades, where +there is a fair inn (Auberge du Lys).[Footnote: Only in summer.] From +thence the road forks, but the track to the left is the better of the +two, at any rate if on foot, and by it--after fifteen minutes' +labour--the foot of the Cascade d'Enfer is reached; and the Pont +d'Arrouge in another quarter of an hour. A similar length of time is +still necessary to reach a small tower whence a good view of the +Gouffre d'Enfer and the Pont de Nadie, above it, can be enjoyed. This +tower is about a mile distant from the foot of the lowest fall. The +other cascade (the Cascade du Coeur) is not a very difficult twenty +minutes' walk by a path that leads through the trees to Lac Vert, and +as there is a capital inn there (later in the season), we think that +this would be a good spot for lunch. Even as it was, we managed to +enjoy ours pretty well, for fresh air and sunshine are good appetisers, +and the ride had added its effect besides. The return ride in the +afternoon, when the sun was commencing to decline a little, was very +pleasant, and the snow-covered Port de Venasque, so beautiful in its +whiteness, and yet for the same reason quite inaccessible, looked very +lovely when tinged with the crimson hue that the setting sun shot o'er +it, as we arrived in Luchon again. + +[Illustration: THE RUE D'ENFER AND CASCADES.] + +The following morning broke beautifully fine, and Luis Sanson was at +the door punctually at seven, with the horses for our trip up to +Superbagneres. + +The saddle-bags were again filled, and away we went, the horses--still +so fresh--being eager for a canter in the fresh morning air. In summer +the ascent is usually made by St. Aventin and the Granges de Gouron, in +which case the road towards the Col de Peyresourde is followed as far +as St. Aventin, and thence a way leading to the left; but we were too +early for that route, as an avalanche had only lately fallen, so were +obliged to go and return by the route used in the season for the return +only, viz., by the "Pont de Ravi" up the Vallee de la Pique. Having +reached the bridge and taken the path indicated by the sign-board on +the right, we were soon among the trees, which lent a very welcome +shade from the increasing heat, which even at this early hour (7.40 +A.M.) the glorious Sol was not ashamed to diffuse. + +At every fresh turn the strokes of the axe rang through the wood, +mingled with the sound of voices, and after making considerable +progress--during which our guide narrated incidents in his career as +hunter, guide, and jockey--we arrived in view of a very lively scene. +Workmen busy with the hatchet, the saw, and the plane, in the +foreground; others in the rear occupied with mortar and stones, +building a small but substantial house; a cart with oxen lazily +waiting, like Mr. Micawber, for "something to turn up"; a few superior +individuals in deep consultation, and the irrepressible sun struggling +through the beeches and pines to have "his finger in the pie"--such was +the scene we saw, but soon left behind. After this the good broad +carriage-road soon came to an end, and the easy gradient changed to a +steep path among a grove of nothing but beeches, which emerged later on +the slope of a somewhat bare and stony hill dotted with a few gentians. +The view improved with nearly every step, growing magnificently vast; +and when at length we reached the summit, or rather a mound a few feet +lower, but equally good as a point of sight (for the summit was covered +with snow), we gazed on as grand an expanse of mountains and +tree-clothed valleys as imagination could picture in the most lofty of +its lofty flights. + +[Illustration: ON THE ROAD TO SUPERBAGNERES.] + +Probably but few people will be disposed to deny that, considering the +comparatively small amount of labour necessary to attain the summit, it +is more than amply compensated for; and, when the height of +Superbagneres--which is only 5,900 ft.--is taken into account, such a +grand sight is almost unique. For over two-thirds of a circle the chain +of peaks continues, extending from the Cecire of Superbagneres to the +Cecire [Footnote 1: We have only the guide's authority for this name +here.] above Bosost, and even beyond. Beginning with the nearest, the +Cecire (8,025 ft.) of Superbagneres, then come the Pene de Montarque +(9685 ft.), and the cone-shaped Quairat (10,037 ft.), followed by the +huge glacier of Crabioules, which, in spite of its eternal snow, +supplies the various cascades in the Rue d'Enfer that flow into the Lys +valley. Above rise up the Pic de Crabioules (10,233 ft), the Pic de +Bourn (9,875 ft), and the peculiar Tuc de Maupas (10,204 ft.); after +which the Trous d'Enfer and the Pic de Sacroux (8,786 ft) appear. The +next of the near peaks is the Pic de Sauvegarde (9,145 ft), but between +the Sacroux and this, calm and clear, the highest peaks of the range, +the Milieu, the Maladetta, and the Nethou, with the dead white glacier +below them, rise in view. After the Sauvegarde, the Pic de la Mine +(9,048 ft.), the Port de Venasque (7,930 ft.), and the very pointed Pic +de la Pique (7,854 ft.) appear, followed by the Pas de l'Escalette +(7,877 ft.) and the Port de la Picade (8,219 ft.), towards which group +the Vallee de l'Hospice leads. + +To the left of the Picade, the cone of the lofty "Posets" may be seen +in the distance, while more to the left, and more distant too, the Pena +Blanca (9222 ft.) is also visible. Further round, over the wooded +"cols" that guard the "Pique" valley, the Mont Segu [Footnote: We have +only the guide's authority for the name.] and Cecire near Bosost, and +the _Pyrenees Orientales_ beyond, finished the magnificent chain. +From another situation we could look down on Luchon and from this point +were endeavouring to reach the little hut, where fodder and a few +provisions can be found in the season, when an ancient shepherd bawled +out in _patois_ that the place was as yet tenantless, for which we +felt thankful to that peasant, as it saved us a long tramp through +rather deep snow, though for that same reason we were unable to reward +his forethought as it deserved. Leaving him to pursue his guileless +way, we descended into the beech grove for our lunch, and finding +grateful shade at the foot of a fine fir, we opened the saddle-bags and +proceeded to regale ourselves, finding some snow that we brought from +the top very useful to cool the rather heated claret. After nature was +satisfied we quickly descended past the previously busy scene, and when +near the high road again came in view of some woodmen loading a cart +with logs. To do this the logs had to be brought to an eminence above +the cart, and bullocks were employed to drag up the wood. The men were +treating them most cruelly, and once or twice they lowed so piteously, +that we have translated it into + +"THE OXEN'S APPEAL." + + Working and toiling the whole of the day, + Working and toiling without any pay, + Only perchance a few mouthfuls of hay, + From earliest dawn till late. + Held by the horns 'neath this cumbersome yoke, + Firmer fixed thus than a "pig in a poke," + Feeling the "prong" and the lengthy stick's stroke, + Ours, alas, is a terrible fate. + + When straining our utmost, you bring the stick down + On our miserable backs; and you swear, and you frown, + Never thinking the sun is just "doing us brown," + As the furnace will do when we're slain. + We cannot pull more than we can, you must know, + And we cannot pull fast if we can but pull slow, + So why should you spike us, and ill-use us so, + And make our hides tingle with pain? + + We serve you well always, draw heaviest loads, + And never complain of the worst of bad roads; + While you in return use those blood-drawing goads + At ev'ry conceivable time. + Be sure that no quicker or wiser are we, + But we _do_ sometimes think if we got our horns free, + The position in which you would probably be, + And you would not pronounce it sublime. + + So listen, we pray, to our modest appeal: + With kindness more proud of our work we should feel; + And if those fierce blows you still ruthlessly deal, + You'll make our flesh horrible stuff; + For though steaks are good beaten, that's done when they're cold, + And we're certainly not, nor as yet very old; + But as some day we'll have to be butchered and sold, + We had better be tender than tough. + If you'll try our plan--that is enough! + +At twenty minutes past one we had repassed the graceful Jardin des +Quinconces, with the weeping willows overhanging the lakelet, and were +within the cool precincts of the hotel. + +Having a couple of hours to spare another morning, we wended our way +towards the Orphanage, "deep in the lilac grove." Turning off from the +road, we followed the narrow track over the rustic bridge, and were +received anything but hospitably by a huge white dog. We calmed him in +time, however, and proceeded to inspect the buildings, but found nearly +everyone shut up, though the little church--elevated above the +rest--was, unlike them, thrown open. Its very rusticity and simplicity +gave it a religious air which to us so few Roman Catholic edifices seem +to possess. The badly-spelt and feebly-worded address to the Pope, to +which he has affixed his signature, that hangs in a frame near the +door, we did not consider much of an attraction, though to the members +of the little congregation it would doubtless be a very holy relic. +Forsaking this peaceful retreat, we climbed up the ascent behind, +within view of the statue of the Virgin, but soon descended again, as +the sun was at that time particularly "baking," and we were not doughty +enough to pretend to resist it. After a cool spell near the +chapel-door, watching the "painted ladies" [Footnote: Butterflies, of +course!] playing with the lilac blossoms, we trudged slowly back again. + +One of the pleasantest as well as most interesting of our trips in the +Pyrenees was from Luchon to the little Spanish village of Bosost, and +as it is one of the principal pillars that uphold the chief title of +this volume, it deserves a detailed mention. + +This time the favourite hour of ten was not early enough for starting, +so we were on horseback by 9.15, going very leisurely, being quite +undesirous to force the pace, as the day was warm even at that hour. + +Up the Rue d'Espagne for a short distance beyond the Hotel Richelieu +(which hotel, from all we have heard, though large, is not too moderate +nor owned by too polite a proprietor), and then we took the turning to +the left, which (as the signboard tells) leads to St. Mamet. Without +waiting to enter the old church to see its frescoes, we pursued the +road branching off to the right, which presently left the Orphanage +behind in the same direction. A few minutes later we had passed the +frontier (French) custom station, and leaving the isolated Castelvieil +(2514 ft.) for a short time on our right, and later in our rear, we +bore up the Vallee de Burbe. We had only progressed a short distance +when a huge rock was visible in the centre of the road, evidently a +very recent gift from the adjacent height. Our horses having been so +little used, were very fresh and rather fond of shying, and our +guide's, which was an Arab, not only shied at the impediment, but +wheeled round with the intention of going homewards. As we managed to +make our own, however, pass quietly, the obstreperous one, after a +brief struggle, was induced to follow their example. A little further +on, we met a fine team of Spanish mules in their full picturesque +trappings and bells. The two men in charge of them were dressed a +little untidily, but their attire was equally picturesque, the coloured +waistband, turban, and knee-breeches producing a very bright effect. + +The bright yellow-green of the beeches, mingling with the dark and +gloomy olive shade of the firs; here and there fields laden with the +blue columbine and the "overrated" asphodel; the boulder-strewn slopes +on our left, and the snow-ridges on the right; and the strong, fresh, +and foaming cascade of Sidonie tumbling down beside us, made a very +delicious contemplation as we went on our way. + +Our guide in a most "gallant" manner got off his steed to gather Miss +Blunt a few flowers, but when he endeavoured to assume his former +elevated position, the "Arab" didn't see it. In fact he _would not +be_ mounted, and the unevenness of the track added not a little to +the success of his manoeuvrings. "Luis" had not been six months a +"jockey" for nothing, however; so he lulled his steed into a sense of +security by walking beside it for some time in circus fashion, with his +right hand grasping the off side of the saddle, until a large stone +showed its head at the side of the road. As they passed, he ran up the +stone and was in the saddle before the animal realised that he was +beaten, and when he did, it seemed to humble him to that degree that he +never attempted even a curvet. + +The number of lizards we disturbed was something wonderful. None of +them were very large or very striking in colour, but they made up for +this in animation; and their fearful trepidity and hurry to get +anywhere out of sight was wonderful. + +Just before entering the sunlit beech glades we overtook a noble +cavalcade, consisting of three ladies on three donkeys, with a fat old +woman leading the way on foot. They had their lunch with them, and +apparently intended--judging by a certain hungry look they had--to make +their repast at the earliest opportunity. The young and beautiful lady +bringing up the rear was probably ignorant of the ludicrous figure she +made with her "ultra" fashionable arrangement of steels, that gave her +the appearance of having a large clothes-bag under her dress, or we +don't think she would have started on the excursion in such a garment. +If a member of the "Rational Dress Society" had seen her, there would +probably have been an "exhibition" on the spot, and a general one--with +all the latest "improvements" (?)--at Luchon a few weeks later. + +After traversing a number of beautiful glades we entered the Firs--the +Black Forest as it is called,--where bears are hunted in the winter, +and through which the road ascends by a series of zigzags to the summit +of the Col de Portillon (4275 ft.), and then descends for a short +distance to the frontier, marked by a huge boulder, with the French +flag on one side and the Spanish on the other. As we reined in the +horses opposite to it for a moment, no one could dispute that we were +indeed "'twixt France and Spain." But we did not stay to enjoy this +enviable position long; and passing on, endeavoured to realise that we +were no longer in France by fixing our eyes on the _Pyrenees +Orientales_; we could also see the Poujastou (6332 ft.) on our left, +the Couradilles (6513 ft.), the Mont Segu, the Cecire, [Footnote: We +had only our guide's authority for these names] and further forward the +Entecade on our right. A short distance down the road there lay the +Casino du Portillon, not yet opened for the summer gambling, and not +very much further (viz., about a mile from the frontier), the Spanish +custom-house, and the Casino de Roulette. Here the road divides, the +branch to the Vallee d'Aran and Bosost bearing to the left, and the +other, to Viella and the Artiques-Tellin, in the opposite direction. + +Passing some ruined houses and fertile slopes in our descent, we soon +obtained a fine view up both ends of the Aran valley, with the +diminutive Garonne winding through, and Bosost snugly situated on the +slopes of a hill round a bend in the road. The sun was pouring down in +all his midday strength as we passed the roadside chapel of St. Antoine +and entered the antiquated little village of Bosost, stopping at the +Fonda de Espana for lunch. + +This inn, from the road, was as much unlike an inn as anything we ever +saw, and its ways and passages were somewhat unique; but upstairs there +was a large room with a wide terrace facing the river, which only +wanted an awning over to be rendered delicious. We were unfortunately +too early in the season for this luxury, so had to content ourselves +with lunching in the room, with wide-opened doors. When the provisions +were spread out, in rushed the guide with an official document, and a +franc to pay for having invaded Spain. We gave him the money, and asked +to taste some honest country wine, which resulted in the domestic +bringing us something rather strong, like new port, which did not go +badly with water. + +After the repast had passed pleasantly, we strolled out into the +village, Miss Blunt being equipped with the requisites for a brilliant +sketch. Unhappily, the subject was not easy to find, though we marched +through most of the streets; but having visited the ancient +church--with its chime of bells, like many others in Spain, arranged on +a wheel--we found a spot by the side of a huge elm from which there was +a good view of the sacred edifice. But it was a case of sketching under +difficulties, as the whole or at least the greater part of the village +children crowded round us, some carrying smaller children in their +arms, some playing with flowers, others cutting bits of wood, and one +and all managing to do their utmost to bother poor Miss Blunt. She +accordingly finished the sketch as quickly as possible, and we all +returned to the hotel to keep out of the oppressive heat. + +At three o'clock we started homewards, going rather faster than when we +came. Alternate clouds and sunshine overhead, the lights and shadows +over the trees, the fields--radiant with gentians, oxslips, columbine, +_polygaloe_, and asphodel--losing none of their charm. + +At the Spanish custom-house we delivered up our passport, for which we +had paid the franc, and then wound over the Portillon and gently back +to our hotel, not arriving too late for the cup that soothes and +cheers, but never cheers too loudly. + +The morrow was to see us leaving Luchon--the charming, the +beautiful--and all of us had a similar feeling, viz., that we might +soon come and see the "Pearl of the Pyrenees" again. + +It was true that we had missed all the noise and excitement which comes +with the summer; that we had missed the troops of Pau-ites wearing out +such of their "robes" as the heat would allow, and the throngs of gay +Spaniards; that we had missed the crowds of invalids, the bands of +music, and the worst specimens of the travelling world, "French +tourists." But it was a truth for which we were very grateful, and we +would certainly advise future visitors to take Luchon in the spring, +and leave it before the heat and bustle of the season mar its peace, +and the summer's sun melts the snowy splendour of the surrounding +heights. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +ST. BERTRAND DE COMMINGES. + +Keeping to old friends--Valley history--Entering the Garonne +valley--The picturesque St. Beat--St. Beat to Viella--Memories of the +lovely Thames--Baths of Ste. Marie--Loures--The cross-roads--Weak +walls--Entering St. Bertrand--An ancient house--The inn--A charming +garden--The cathedral--A national disgrace--"The Crocodile of St. +Bertrand"--The tomb of Hugues de Chatillon--Travelling desecraters--St. +Bertrand's rod--The ruined cloisters--Desolation--Swine +feeding--Montrejeau--The buffet--No milk!--French railway +officials--Trying experiences. + + +It was not many years ago that travellers with heavy luggage were +forced to travel in the clumsy diligence between Luchon and Montrejeau; +and, especially in the summer when the press for places was great, very +little comfort could be enjoyed during the journey, except perhaps on a +fine day, when for a short space the vehicle stopped at St. Bertrand de +Comminges. Now, the railway in an hour performs the whole distance; but +we preferred to keep to our old friends, a "landau and four horses," +and with the weather still propitious, left the comfortable Hotel +Canton at our favourite time, and were soon bowling down the Allee +d'Etigny. In a short time the Allee Barcugna and the station were left +behind, and we entered the broader part of the valley of Luchon. This +valley was originally--_on dit_--a huge lake, and afterwards +--presumably when it had ceased to be such--became peopled by a Gallic +race, whose "divinity," Ilixo, [Footnote: Ilixo has now become Luchon.] +has given his name to the surroundings. We presume in this derivation +"consonants are interchangeable and vowels don't count." + +Cier de Luchon (four and a quarter miles), above which to the west +stands the Pic d'Antenac (6470 ft), was soon passed through, as we +crossed and recrossed the railway line, now following the River Pique, +and now, for a short space, keeping along the line. Five miles further, +and we left the Pique valley for that of the Garonne, passing through +the village of Cierp, which lies to the right of Marignac, the station +where passengers alight for St. Beat. This is a very picturesque +village, about three miles east, perched above the Garonne in a narrow +defile, possessing an ancient church and a good inn. The Pic de Gar +(5860 ft.), which rears up to the north of the village, is very rich in +flora; and the road passing through it (St Beat) afterwards leads by +the villages of Arlos, Fos, and Les to Bosost (twelve miles), whence it +continues to Viella. + +The valley at this point is particularly fertile and lovely, and as we +progressed, frequently following the windings of the Garonne, memories +of pleasant hours, both lively and dreamy, spent on some of the quiet +reaches on the dear old Thames, seemed naturally to recall themselves; +the similarity of the surroundings being in some parts so great. + +At Salechan (thirteen miles) the beautiful valleys of Siradan and +Barousse branch off, and the scenery in the vicinity is deliciously +bright and peaceful-looking. The bathing resort of Ste. Marie lies a +mile northwards, and barely a mile to the west of it, on the road to +Mauleon, the baths of Siradan are situated. Mauleon (1960 ft.) is three +and a quarter miles west from Siradan by the village of Cazaril, +standing at the head of the Barousse valley. + +Still passing through charming country, we reached Loures (not to be +confounded with Lourdes), at which place--being the railway station for +St. Bertrand--carriages can be hired for the drive, a distance of six +miles there and back. Traversing the village and crossing the bridge, +we issued again on a vista of fields bright with trefoil and waving +flowers, and backed up by finely-wooded hills. Away to the right, +nestling among the trees, stands a pretty little village and castle, +and as we passed on, St. Bertrand came in view over the crest of a +wooded hill; and, arriving at the junction where the roads from Auch, +Toulouse, and Ax join in, we ascended the hill on which this ancient +town is situated. + +Founded by Pompey the Great, B.C. 69, Lugdunum Convenarum, or Lyon, +or--as it is now called--St. Bertrand de Comminges, though standing +only 1690 ft. above the sea, seems from its isolated position, to be +much higher; as the accompanying sketch by M. Dore testifies, though +the latter exaggerates the proportions of the cathedral. + +Though in a ruinous state, much of the old ramparts and fortifications +remain, while in some parts many of the old stones seemed to us to have +been used for ornamental walls, such as no one would consider fit to +resist even a very modest cannon-ball. + +Bearing to the left, we passed beneath the "Porte Cabirole," opposite +to which stands a small kiosque, built, on account of the beauty of the +view, at that point The road continues between high walls underneath +another archway, past the ruins of a curious house, with a winding +staircased tower of the 13th century, which alas! before this appears +in print, will probably have disappeared altogether; then bending to +the left, and again to the right after a few yards, we drew up at the +Cafe (called by courtesy Hotel) de Comminges, with the ancient +cathedral in full view. Having sent a telegram early in the morning, we +found lunch ready for us, and though we had fared better elsewhere, we +did not consider that for a "primitive Roman town" the meal was to be +found fault with while as to the garden belonging to the inn, it was +indeed a charming little spot. Although in truth but little more than a +"spot," the bright and varied hues of its stocks, columbines, pansies, +and sweet peas, with here and there a particularly fine iris, +contrasting so effectively with the dark green of the ivy leaves and +the blackness of the berries clustering over the old wall, gave it a +charm which we could not fail to feel; and the view from the +creeper-grown arbour over the richly-wooded hills and brilliant fields, +with the bright garden as a background, made a scene to remember and +enjoy. + +[Illustration: St. Bertrand De Comminges.] + +Notre Dame, or Sainte Marie, as the cathedral is called, attracted our +attention most, and though the front view is perfectly spoilt by the +lofty scaffolding erected before it, the inside fully compensates for +this defect, although it is impossible to view the ruinous state of +some portions without great regret. + +The English are supposed to be a very lucky people, and at any rate we +have reason to be thankful that we are not a republic, nor as a rule +neglectful of old historical buildings; and the sight of this +magnificent old place, mouldering away with no apparent aid +forthcoming--except such as the liberality of occasional visitors +provides, and that, for such a work, is practically _nil_--did not +provoke any wish to change our nationality. It is not as if the French +said, "We are becoming a Protestant people, and therefore wish to +destroy all signs of our having once followed the faith of Rome;" for +in that case censure would be utterly misplaced; but surely if the +national religion remains Roman Catholic, an ancient and wonderfully +interesting old cathedral like this ought to be suitably preserved. + +Having been built at two different periods (viz. the close of the 11th +and the middle of the 14th centuries), the architecture presents two +distinct styles, which in parts, are particularly incongruous. The +organ and pulpit combined, which are on the left of the entrance, +constitute a very handsome work of the "Renaissance" period, and are +most unique. On the opposite side of the building a crocodile--or the +remains of one--hangs from the wall, doubtless brought, as M. Joanne +suggests, from some Egyptian crusade; but the "church" puts a very +different complexion on the subject, as will be seen from the +following, which--with all its faults--will be, we trust, pardoned, +since it issues from the mouth of so badly-treated a reptile as + + "THE CROCODILE OF ST. BERTRAND." + + A crocodile truly, there's no one could doubt, + On taking a look at my skin: + It's as dry and as tough as a petrified clout,[1] + Though, alas! there is nothing within. + + I've been here on this wall for a jolly long time, + And the "cronies" a legend will tell + Of the wonderful things, void of reason and rhyme, + That during my lifetime befell. + + They'll tell you I lived in "this" beautiful vale, + And found in the river a home; + While even the bravest would start and turn pale, + If they chanced in my pathway to roam. + + They'll tell how I swallow'd the babies and lambs, + And harassed the cows in the mead; + And such slander completely my character damns, + While I've no one to help _me_ to plead. + + And they'll whine how I met the great Bertrand himself, + The miracle-worker and saint. + But those women will tell any "walkers" for pelf, + And swear I'm all black--when I ain't. + + Yes! they actually say that St. Bertrand came by, + And lifted his ivory stick, + Then dealt me a terrible blow in the eye, + Which levell'd me flat as a brick. + + But it's false! Just as false + as that "here" I was + brought + + On the back of that + wonderful man. + + But the crones just repeat + what the "priesthood" + have taught, + + And it's part of a regular + plan. + + Why, believe me, they + caught me afloat on + the Nile + + As my dinner I just had + begun; + + I was chased by a host of + the picked "rank + and file," + + And to them my destruction + seem'd fun. + + And when I was dead they + anointed my bones, + + And placed me up here + on the wall; + + But that organ at first was + so loud in its tones, + + Of rest I found nothing + at all. + + A crocodile truly. You've + heard my sad tale, + + And I say that such lies + are a sin; + + While the protests I make, + seeming nought to + avail, + + Are enough to make any + one thin! + +[Footnote 1: This is a Yorkshire word, meaning "cloth."] + +[Illustration: THE CROCODILE OF ST. BERTRAND.] + +Turning away from this "priestly" monument to St. Bertrand's miraculous +powers, we passed along the side of the remarkable choir stalls--which +take up the greater part of the edifice--and turned inside at an +opening, near the high altar. The latter, decorated with the ordinary +display of 19th century tinsel, does not call for much comment, but in +a passage close behind it stands the mausoleum of St. Bertrand, built +in 1432. The stalls were erected in the 16th century, and are worthy of +much attention. + +The rood loft, which is nearest the entrance to the cathedral, is +ornamented with figures of the Apostles and Saints, and the exterior +panels running along both sides, and divided by small choicely-carved +columns, represent a diversity of figures; none, however, seeming to +bear much, if at all, on religion. In the interior, besides the throne, +there is a remarkable "tree of Jesse "--near the first stall on the +right hand--which we thought was well done; but what with the different +figures above each stall, the arabesques uniting them, and the less +minute work under each seat, there was no lack of carving to be seen; +and even if it was not all of the highest order, the general effect was +strikingly good. It is worth noting that the cathedral, owing to some +great error, was built facing north instead of west, and that +consequently the east side is on the left of the entrance. Half-way up +this side is the small chapel of Notre Dame de Pitie, in which the fine +marble tomb of Hugues de Chatillon lies. The sculpture is especially +fine, though the beauty is somewhat marred by names scratched with a +pin or written in pencil, wherever sufficient level space is afforded. +Since English people as a rule are credited with being by far the most +numerous of this class of travelling desecraters, it was at least a +satisfaction to notice that most of the individuals, who had chosen +this objectionable--though probably the only--method of handing their +names down to posterity, were French. This tomb was only erected in the +15th century, although the good bishop died in 1352, the same year in +which the edifice was finished. + +Several relics may be seen in the sacristy, and amongst them is the +wonderful ivory rod with which the great St. Bertrand is supposed to +have slain the much-maligned crocodile. + +Close to the entrance to the sacristy a door leads into the cloisters, +where the scene of ruin and desolation is painfully evident. In the +portion nearest the church, which is roofed over, several curious +_sarcophagi_ may be seen; the rest is a series of pillars and +arches from which the roof has long vanished. In the photographs (which +may be bought at the inn) there is some appearance of order even in the +midst of the decay, but this was probably carefully effected prior to +the artist's visit; for when we were there the whole space was +overgrown completely with weeds, among which a rose-bush and a few +other flowers struggled to bloom, untended and apparently unthought of. + +Passing again through the cathedral, whose windows are well worthy of +mention, we made a detour round the town, and then started for +Montrejeau. + +The road does not pass through such charming country as we had seen in +the morning, but at times there are some pleasing little bits. At one +spot, where a grove of trees skirted the way, we noticed a large herd +of swine, watched over by a solitary and silent female, to whom they +appeared to give no trouble, never seeming to stray far. + +Going at a fairly fast pace, we only took forty-five minutes to reach +the ancient town of Mons Regalis, now completely modernised into +Montrejeau. The advancing years have not only altered it in name, for, +with the exception of the ruins of a twelfth-century castle, there is +nothing to indicate its mediaeval origin; and as to the old-world look +that is so pleasant to meet with, but now so rare, this town of the +"Royal Mount" has no trace of it. The "buffet" at the station, however, +can be recommended, although the "lacteal fluid," either in its pure or +watered form, is decidedly scarce there. The dinner and coffee are +good, and, like most dinners at the stations (always excepting such +places as Amiens and Tours), moderate, when taken at the table d'hote. + +We had plenty of time for a meal before the train destined to carry us +on to Pau was due, but in spite of that, through the boorishness of the +station porters and staff generally, we did not depart without a lively +experience. + +It is well known that ladies as a rule are wont to travel with numerous +small parcels, and there was no exception in our party to this rule, +while Mr. Sydney and myself were not without _impedimenta_ as +well. In all, there were about a dozen--to put a familiar figure--too +small or too fragile to share the dangers of the luggage-van. These, +three respective porters promised to bring to the train, but as every +porter broke his word, they remained _in statu quo_. And we may +here remark how noticeable it is, that whereas English porters are +always on the alert to earn a few coppers, their French representatives +will rarely if ever help with anything but the registered luggage +(which of course is in the company's charge), while a higher official, +such as you would never ask in England, will occasionally assist--if +desired to do so with politeness--but only occasionally. It is evident +that the French Government reduce the staff to the narrowest limits, +and do not intend porters to help in transporting any luggage but that +which has been paid for in registration; and on the same principle as +armies are organised in South America, for every "porter" there will be +two or three superintendents. + +To resume.--This perfidy of the porters placed us in a very unenviable +position; the train was due to start, the ladies were in the carriage, +but the luggage was in a pile at the other side of the station, and Mr. +Sydney, thinking all was well, had followed the ladies. I was requested +to do likewise, as the train was off; but instead of so doing, launched +such a tirade at the head of every official within reach, that they +kept the train waiting to return it; at last, seeing I was obdurate, at +least half a dozen rushed to the offending pile, collared the various +items, and bore them towards our compartment. As the first instalment +arrived I got up, and the train started. The rest of the laden +officials were ranged a few yards apart, and as our carriage passed, +the packages and cloaks were thrown in. The scene they presented when +the door was first shut was unique, but very deplorable, and it +required the whole of the journey of four and a half _hours_ to +Pau, to calm our troubled minds, cool our heated frames, and make us +look with equanimity on our experience. It would require _years_ +to efface the opinion formed on "French railway station" management; so +in that we followed a method often pursued by schoolboys in early life, +over the "Pons asinorum," and gave it up. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +EAUX BONNES AND EAUX CHAUDES. + +Carriage _v_. diligence--Early birds--Height of +absurdity--Diminutive donkeys--A whitened region--"Crystal +clear"--Washerwomen and their gamps--A useful town-hall--A halfway +house--Moralising--A much-loved pipe--An historic ruin--A noteworthy +strong box--"Ici on rase"--Where are the bears?--Women in +gaiters--Picturesque costumes--A lovely road--A "perfect" cure--A +spring scene--A billiard-playing priest--A well-placed pavilion--The +Valentin and its cascades--Through solid rock--Gaps in the road--A +grand scene--Wanted, an artist--A fine torrent--Professional +fishers--Lucky guests--Musings--Poor Mr. Tubbins--Bonnes _v_. +Chaudes--Over the Col de Gourzy--Peculiar teams--Guelder +roses--Spinning. + + +Next year, travellers with luggage will probably be able to reach Eaux +Bonnes in a much shorter time than now, since the railway ought then to +be in working order as far as Laruns; but at the period when this was +written, the only choice of conveyances lay between a clumsy diligence +and a comfortable carriage. + +Very few people would be likely to hesitate between the two, provided +they were not travelling alone, and in that case even, they would +probably only take the former as an "experience." + +The "diligence" which starts from the Hotel de la Poste at Pau has +three compartments, for a seat in any of which the respective charges +are 8 frs. 80 cents, 7 frs. 70 cents, and 6 frs. 60 cents. The +"first-class" seats--which are of course the best--are placed behind +the driver, and a large dusty-looking hood shields the passengers from +the rain, but not from the dust, nor, since it is black and low, from +the heat of the sun. The position therefore, even with ample +accommodation, is a trying one, but when tightly packed, and wedged in +with luggage to boot, on a warm summer or even spring day, the lot of +an individual during the 5-1/2 hours' journey, with only a half-hour's +break between, would, like the policeman's, be certainly not "a happy +one." + +When a party are going it is of course cheaper to take a carriage, +which may be had for from 35 to 50 francs to do the trip in one day, or +at the rate of 25 francs per diem, taking it for two days or more. As +the distance between Pau and either Eaux Bonnes or Eaux Chaudes is +271/2 miles, and the distance of the one watering-place from the other +61/4 miles, the actual mileage from Pau and back again is 611/4 miles, +to perform which in one day, and see the two towns as well, is a +feat--though often done--hardly to be recommended. At least two days +should be given to the task, and we do not think they would be +regretted. + +The heat in Val d'Ossau during the summer months is very great, and the +lumbering old diligence usually runs during the hottest part of the +day; we preferred an early start, and by half-past six were on the +road, meeting a few people apparently wending their way towards the +market, with flowers and vegetables for sale. Crossing the bridge and +through Jurancon, where hardly a soul was astir, we sped along the +dusty road to Gan (5 miles), at which town--one of the chief centres of +the wine district--a road to Oloron branches off to the right. Here the +inhabitants were really beginning to bustle; and as it was getting on +towards eight o'clock, they were nothing too early, although they may +have held a different opinion. At the corner of one of the streets we +came upon a team drawing a long cart, which we unanimously christened +the "height of absurdity." A pair of 17-hand horses were in the shafts, +and in front, attached as a leader, was the smallest of donkeys. Miss +Blunt thought it the _smallest donkey in the world_; but we have +met with so many lately in the Pyrenees which were in turn, in her +opinion, the smallest she had ever seen, that by this time the smallest +donkey might be but little bigger than a rat; this, however, was not +the case, as Mr. Sydney will attest. + +The valley grew more lovely as we progressed, with the winding Neez +stream running with merry music beside the road, and although Mrs. +Blunt did not indulge--as on the way to Cauterets--in any raptures of +her own, she was quite willing to agree with the rest that the frequent +resemblance of the scenery to many of the lovely bits we have in Wales +was most pleasantly apparent. + +Shortly before reaching the blanched region of the lime-works (71/2 +miles), we caught a momentary glimpse of the Pic du Midi d'Ossau (9466 +ft.), on which the summer sun had of late so relentlessly played, that +the snowy crown had quite disappeared. Rebenac (93/4 miles) was reached +at 8.40, and there we crossed the Neez by a stone bridge, the stream +then running on our right, and continuing thus for three kilometres +farther (11 miles from Pau), when it issues from the Grotto du +Neez--only a few yards from the road. From this grotto a great part of +the torrent is diverted, being utilised to supply Pau with its pure and +sparkling fluid. Half-an-hour after leaving Rebenac we passed through +the village of Sevignac, (123/4 miles), and had a splendid view of the +Val d'Ossau from the bridge which overlooks Arudy, and which is +overlooked in turn by a fine and well-situated house. + +We had barely time to appreciate the curious rocks which abound near +Arudy, when we passed the road leading off through that town to Oloron, +and came in sight of a merry group of washerwomen, whose enormous +umbrellas--being unnecessary, since it was perfectly fine--were open in +a row, and with their shades of magenta, green, and blue, without +mentioning sundry patches of other shades, made a wonderful contrast to +the green bushes fringing the river. + +At 9.40 we entered Louvie Juzon (16 miles), with its old church and +curious belfry-tower, and its "mairie" turned into a school--for the +nonce at least; and passing the latter, we crossed the fine bridge over +the Gave d'Ossau, on the other side of which the Oloron road leads off +through Izeste to the right, and the courtyard of the Hotel des +Pyrenees bids us enter and rest. + +How gladly the occupants of the diligences descend, for the short while +adjudged sufficient, at this customary half-way house, who but +themselves can tell? Even we were glad to let the horses have an hour's +rest, and to enjoy meanwhile some good hot coffee and chicken. The inn +itself was certainly not a paradise; but there were some lovely fields +behind it, and in front, across the road, there was an old table and an +older seat among the trees, down by the swift-flowing river. A charming +place for moralising indeed! None of us, however, were much in the +style of the "melancholy Jacques," or, with our eyes on some vigorous +fisherman higher up the river, we might have begun: + + "And yet it irks us, these bright speckled trout, + Being native swimmers in this river, should + From their own limpid pools, by gay, false flies + Be cruelly decoyed." + +Instead of this, however, we returned to the inn, where we saw a worthy +count endeavouring to clean a huge meerschaum pipe that he handled with +evident fondness, and finding our carriage ready--it being then nearly +eleven o'clock--we continued our journey. + +It was now that the real Val d'Ossau commenced, and though the drive so +far had been much enjoyed, we soon passed into scenery both more fine +and more wild. One kilometre from Louvie on the left stands the ancient +Chateau de Geloz (161/2 miles) on a small hill, and on another hill +beside it--of corresponding size--stands a church. The view here, with +the village of Castets behind, the beautiful river below, and the +wooded slopes and massive rocks above, was especially charming. + +With many lovely fields on either side of us we drove at a smart pace +towards Bielle (181/4 miles), and at a quarter-past eleven entered the +town, which in bygone days was the capital of Ossau. Here the +celebrated Coffre d'Ossau, that contained archives dating from the year +1227, was kept; and it is a noteworthy fact that the presence of the +mayors of three towns, besides that of the President of the Valley +Council, was necessary before this "strong box" could be opened. + +There are many old houses and objects of interest, including some +mosaics, to be seen in the town, and among other things that attracted +our attention was a large board, painted in the most modern style, with +a pair of scissors at one side and an open razor at the other, and the +"welcome" information--"Ici on rase" underneath. + +The village of Bilheres, situated above Bielle on the slopes of the +hill, is not without interest on account of the richness of its copper +mines, while during the dry season a track leads from it over the Col +de Marie Blanque to the Vallee d'Aspe. + +As we continued our journey the frequent puffs of dust alone gave us +any trouble, but they caused us at times to screen our eyes and miss +the view. The valley, now at its widest, with pastures high up on the +hills seemingly as fertile as those beside the river, all bright with +flowers or studded with well-leaved trees, spoke of peace and +prosperity. It would have been hard indeed to imagine a huge and +ferocious bear appearing among such cultivation, although the valley +still retains its ancient name, signifying that it was once the resort +of these animals; but a "dancing bear" is the only specimen of the race +seen about there now. + +At half-past eleven we passed through the village of Belesten (20 +miles), and a little beyond, when once more among the fields, came in +view of a curious sight. Among the many fields, variously cultivated, +was a square one dotted over with small manure heaps in rows. On the +top of several of the heaps, native aprons (belonging, we presumed, to +girls at work in the vicinity) were neatly placed. Was this a new +fashion of rearing mushrooms, or a native invention for the propagation +of aprons? No one could say, so we have given it up! + +Further on we noticed a lovely little village among the trees on the +hillside to the left; our coachman called it Louvie la Haute, and we +have heard no other name, as it is too insignificant to be mentioned in +a guide-book. + +One peculiarity of this valley seemed to be the wearing of frilled +gaiters or leggings by the women. They seem to supply the place of +stockings and shoes, being visible from just below the knee, and +descending well over the instep, so as to hide everything but the toes. + +It must have been market-day at Laruns (233/4 miles), for when we +arrived there at noon the streets were so full of carts and people that +it was a matter of difficulty to get past. If the extra bustle had +betokened one of the fetes, of which the chief is held on August 15th +annually, we should have been far from disposed to grumble, since it is +at these Laruns fetes alone now that the old picturesque Ossalois +costumes can be seen. M. Dore has depicted a few natives in these +costumes at their devotions in the ancient church that stood beside the +route; but no one is likely to do so again, as the edifice--when we +passed it--was falling into ruins and looked in a deplorable condition, +the finely-sculptured doorway being partly hidden by the fallen debris. +But not only the church, but more or less the whole village, seemed in +a tumble-down condition, and this appeared to us especially strange, as +everywhere around prosperity seemed to reign; and further, since the +railway from Pau, which was to be opened this year, appeared nearly +completed, the fact of Laruns being the terminus at this end of the +valley ought to render it yet more prosperous. + +Just inside the village we crossed the bridge over the almost dry bed +of the Arricuze (beyond which the old road to Eaux Chaudes branches off +to the right), and then traversing the Gave d'Ossau, we continued under +the trees along the ancient route to Eaux Bonnes. But not for many +minutes, for, where the old road which leads to the Bear Grotto also +begins to ascend, the new route strikes up to the right, and continues +with an easy gradient to the point where it forks (24 miles), the +continuation to the right leading to Eaux Chaudes, and the branch to +the left--which we followed--to Eaux Bonnes. + +[Illustration] + +No pains have been spared to render the remainder of the journey +attractive to either the rider or the pedestrian, and to us the drive +up the broad zigzags, planted with plane trees, silver beech, ash, +polonia, aspen, arbutus, burberis, and innumerable other handsome trees +and shrubs, was a pleasant one indeed. One rocky bit on the right of +the way, completely overhung with beautiful ivy, seemed to us +especially picturesque. Admiring thus all the poetic touches in form or +colouring as we passed, we suddenly, and almost without warning, found +ourselves entering Eaux Bonnes (271/2 miles), and but a very few +moments more sufficed for our conveyance to the excellent Hotel de +France, where the hostess was ready to receive us. + +It would, indeed, be hard to find a more charmingly compact little town +than Eaux Bonnes, anywhere: a perfect little miniature, very happily +situated and beautifully clean and neat. What more could an invalid +desire? Why, the very beauty of the surroundings ought to act +perceptibly on the constitution, and when baths and perpetual tumblers +of the rotten-egg fluid are indulged in besides, a perfect cure +_must_ be guaranteed. + +It requires but few words to describe the shape and appearance of the +place, but to convey an _accurate_ idea to the reader is, we are +afraid, a very difficult matter. The town is triangular in +shape--almost an isosceles triangle, in fact--and this triangle is +formed by the shape of the gorge, whose rocky, tree-clothed sides +overlook it. Fine rows of hotels and restaurants, and other +buildings--mostly let as furnished apartments--form the outer edge of +the triangle. A good road separates these from the Jardin Darralde, +which is likewise triangular, and planted with trees and shrubs in the +most agreeable manner, both for neatness and shade. In the centre is +the band-stand, and a bed of roses surrounds it. This is a general +description, but it does not speak of beauty, and we thought that Eaux +Bonnes was undoubtedly a beautiful place. + +Suppose a triangular slice were cut out of Hyde Park, combining some +leafy trees and a pleasant flower-bed with a band-stand added, and +hotels and restaurants were erected around it; then, that it were +transported to a narrow part of the Llanberis Pass under the very frown +of Snowdon; and snow should fall on the surrounding summits; and +magnificent beech groves and cascades appear down the wild slopes +below, some idea of what Eaux Bonnes is like might be gained; but even +then it would be little more than an idea. + +It certainly has not the grandeur of Cauterets, the freedom of St. +Sauveur, or the expansive loveliness of Luchon. It is hemmed in by the +surrounding heights, of which, at the head of the Sourde (or Soude) +valley (in which it lies) the magnificent Pic de Ger is most +conspicuous, and doubtless this renders it a "warm retreat" in summer; +but to see it as we saw it, with the sun shining on the rain-spangled +leaves of the trees in the Jardin Darralde, on the lighter green of the +beeches above, and glinting through the foam of the "Valentin" +cascades; with no invalids, no gallant French horsemen, no +gaily-dressed women, but only a few peasants dotted here and there, at +work, to give life to the scene--to see it, in short, as it is in +spring, can only give rise to pleasant feelings, which would mellow +into pleasanter and more appreciative memories! + +The amount of rain we had during our stay was only sufficient to cool +the heated atmosphere and lay the dust; but Eaux Bonnes has rather a +watery reputation, and many are the times that the visitors become +victims to a shower, returning from their "constitutional" or their +visit to the baths. + +When we arrived the hotel had only been open a very short time, as the +"season" was far from beginning, and the only other occupants, as +visitors, were a rather stout man and a fat, jovial-visaged priest. We +discovered them in the billiard-room as the priest was just in the +throes of a most simple cannon, and our entrance appeared to damage his +play, while his face rather lengthened, as though he felt ashamed at +having been surprised at a worldly game. This may have been our fancy, +as he was certainly the first R.C. priest we had seen with a cue in his +hand; perhaps, however, he will not be the last. + +After this we lunched, and after that, left the hotel and walked up the +main road towards the Sourde Gorge, passing a choice marble shop, the +bathing establishment, the church, and the town-hall. Beyond this +last-named building the gorge narrows and extends to the base of the +Pic de Ger (8571 ft.). Leaving this on our right, we followed the +Promenade de l'Imperatrice, that ascends above the town-hall, till the +path leading to the little kiosque--built on the summit of a rocky +eminence called the "Butte du Tresor"--branched off to the right. + +The view from the little pavilion is indeed a gratifying one, for +though not extended, it is so entirely choice and picturesque; while +the name of the eminence on which it stands, and from which some of the +healing springs are said to rise, is decidedly appropriate, since there +can be no doubt that they have proved a "mine of wealth" to several, +although, as M. Taine remarks, it is "grotesque that a little hot water +should have caused the introduction of civilised cooking in its very +cauldrons." + +Descending from the kiosque, we continued along the Route de +l'Imperatrice, over which the beeches and other trees made a pleasant +shade. This is a special walk for invalids, as it is constructed in +zigzags of the easiest gradient, and while being both sheltered from +west winds and open to the sun, it also commands at various points a +good view of the River Valentin, the lower or Discoo Cascade, and the +bridge which spans it; as well as the Route Thermale to Argeles, which +follows the right bank of the river. + +[Illustration: CASCADE DU VALENTIN.] + +Most of the numerous cascades in the neighbourhood--thanks to the +engineering of the "Empress's Walk" and the road to Argeles--are in +easy walking distance for most people, even invalids; those usually +visited being the Cascade des Eaux Bonnes, de Discoo, du Gros-Hetre and +du Serpent; the Cascade de Larsessec (33/4 miles) requires some fatigue +to reach. + +The road leading from the river back to the Hotel de France passes +between two walls of rock against which the houses are built. This +passage has been made by blasting the solid rock, and it seemed that +the work had been one of no small difficulty. + +All great excursions were denied us, as neither the Pic de Ger nor the +fatiguing Pic de Gabizos were sufficiently free from snow; while the +road to Argeles still remained broken down in three places, and it +seemed as though July would disappear ere the terrible gaps made by the +avalanches could be built up anew. + +We started for Eaux Chaudes in the cool of the afternoon, anticipating +a pleasant drive, and were very far from being disappointed. After +retraversing the road to the branching point above Laruns--near which +the fields and banks were rich in gentians, violets, scabii, +_linariae_, and columbines--we seemed suddenly to plunge into the +Gorge de Hourat. There can be little doubt that there is no truer +specimen of a gorge in the Pyrenees than this. The piled-up crags +overgrown with heather, and the splendid pastures above on the +hill-tops, seen in the Cauterets Gorge, were missing; so, too, the +varied tints and softer landscape bits of the St. Sauveur defile were +absent; but here the masses of rock rose straight up on either side, at +times seemingly ambitious to hide their summits in the clouds; while +the roar of the torrent issuing from the Hourat (or Trou, _i.e._ +hole) above which the road passes, only served to heighten the grand +effect of the scene. + +Just after the narrowest part is passed, a small chapel may be noticed +high above the river on the right. It marks the scene of a frightful +accident. The old road, which was in use till 1849, passed by the spot, +and a heavily-laden diligence full of passengers overturned--through +the horses taking fright, it is said--and the whole complement were +dashed over the rocks into the torrent below. The chapel has since been +erected, but though the old road still exists, and, in fact, joins the +new one at the Pont Crabe--which beautiful place is admirably depicted +in the sketch--there is little danger of such an accident occurring +again. + +A little further on--viz. about two miles from Eaux Chaudes--we noticed +below us as charming a subject as any painter could wish for. A small +plot of velvet-like green-sward beside the rushing river; some trees, +leafy almost to extravagance, gracefully arched above; a few sheep +descending a narrow track on the hillside; and above all, the immense +rocky heights, around the base of which beeches and other trees +luxuriantly grew, and many beautiful flowers bloomed; and, thus +garlanded at their base, their stern and massive summits looked grander +still, and completed such a picture of majestic beauty as no lover of +nature could fail to enthusiastically admire. + +One mile further there is another fine sight, though not of the +comprehensive beauty of that just mentioned. This one doubtless is not +worth seeing in mid-summer, when the sun has dried up the mountain +streams, but when _we_ passed that way we could see from the very +summit of the hill--above which the pointed Pic de Laruns reared its +crest--a mass of foam issuing from between two rocks, no puny +meandering streamlet, but a strong torrent, which, as it dashed from +rock to rock, gathered strength and velocity till it rushed amid a +cloud of spray into the river below. + +[Illustration: CRABE BRIDGE, IN THE EAUX CHAUDES GORGE.] + +We saw one or two gentlemen--evidently early visitors like +ourselves--anxiously whipping the river for fish, but they caught +nothing; in fact, they told us afterwards that it was done with hardly +any hopes of catching, since the "professional"--save the name--element +came out with rods and nets, so that if the rods didn't answer they +could net the pools instead. It seemed to us a remarkably good thing +that "professionals" can't do the same in England! + +There is another lovely scene not half a mile away from the town, where +a path leads from the road to the riverside. There is a plot of +green-sward here, and a grove of trees; and the river passes under a +bridge, that vibrates with the force of the torrent surging against its +rocky base. The path over the bridge leads through the leafy glades on +the heights that overlook the river, and the town may be regained by +crossing another bridge higher up. + +Soon after, we were entering Eaux Chaudes (271/2 miles), and having +passed the Hotel de France on the left, and the gardens and bathing +establishment on the right, we drove up to the Hotel Baudot and were +courteously received by Madame. + +It appeared that we had arrived a day too late, as the marriage of +Madame's niece with the hotel _chef_ had been celebrated the day +before, and wonderful festivities had taken place in their honour; +while the guests in the hotel (fortunately not more than eight in +number) had been regaled with champagne and many choice dishes. + +While waiting for dinner we strolled about on the terrace, opening out +of the dining-room and overlooking the river. It did not need the boxes +of bright flowers that lined the terrace sides to entice us there, but +they certainly added to the delightful picture of river and trees; and +as one face reminds us of another, so this scene carried our memory +back to another, but a more lovely one even, because the beauty of the +trees was heightened by large bushes of azaleas--bright with +various-coloured blooms--growing between. But beauty and comfort do not +always go together, and for calm enjoyment this Pyrenean scene had the +preference; for the other was in the heart of Japan, at the tiny +village of Sakurazawa, and we gazed on the picture through the open +_shoji_, [Footnote: Sliding screens, being frames of wood pasted +over with paper, acting as doors and windows.] lying on the neat but +hard--very hard--mats, that were our tables, chairs, and beds in one; +which our host's assurance, that the Mikado himself had slept upon them +the year previous, didn't make any softer. The announcement of dinner +cut short further musings, and we took our places at the table, +profusely adorned with evidences of the previous day's ceremony. + +At a table-d'hote of eight or ten people conversation is as a rule easy +and general. It requires a so-called "typical Englishman" to keep +himself within himself, in a shroud of pride and reserve, and the +"typical Englishman" is, thank goodness, nearly out of date. We were +very anxious to learn about the plateau above Gabas. Was this plateau +really worth seeing; and if so, when was it best to start? Everybody +was ready to give their version of the trip, but Mr. and Mrs. Tubbins +(if we recollect rightly) seemed the most anxious to speak. Mrs. T. was +simply a combination of bolsters which shook with the exertion of +speech, while poor Mr. T., a meek, thin, haggard-looking man--and no +wonder--seemed to be ready to put in a word if required, but looked in +momentary terror of getting a snub instead. + +This look was not an unnecessary one; for Mrs. T., with all her anxiety +to give information, did not get on very fast, and made many mistakes +in names, &c., which her worse-half tried to rectify, with the result +that she turned on him with "Frank, I wish you wouldn't interrupt; you +are quite wrong, you know!" + +However, from the general company we managed to gather a good deal of +information, which, as a cloudy day spoilt our own trip thither on the +morrow, it may be expedient to repeat. Gabas is only a hamlet of a few +houses, and is in itself uninteresting. Situated five miles from Eaux +Chaudes, it is reached by a good carriage road, which, crossing the +Pont d'Enfer, continues along the left bank of the river the rest of +the way, the views being chiefly of granite summits and thick pine +forests. But though Gabas makes an excellent resting-place or +starting-point for several excursions, no one stays there for any other +reason, and tourists from Eaux Chaudes usually pass it on the way to +the Plateau des Bious-Artigues or to Panticosa. The road forks at +Gabas, and becomes no longer anything but a bridle path, the right +branch leading to the plateau, the other passing by the Broussette +valley, across the Spanish frontier, to Panticosa. The plateau is +reached in one hour and a half, not without exertion, and the view over +the Pic du Midi d'Ossau is considered wonderfully fine. Several of our +informants, however, had chosen bad days, and after all their labour, +found a thick mist over everything that was worth seeing. Among these +Mrs. Tubbins had figured, and her goodman had suffered in consequence. +"The idea," she said, "of bringing me all this way, and at my time of +life too, simply to see a mist, as if I hadn't seen plenty of them at +home!" Of course she had come of her own accord, and the meek and +injured one had followed as a matter of course. + +[Illustration: THE BIOUS-ARTIGUES.] + +The journey from Gabas to Panticosa requires a good twelve hours, and +generally more; consequently an early start is advisable. It is a +favourite way of entering Spain, and much more practicable than the +route from Cauterets to the same spot. + +Of Eaux Chaudes itself there is but little to say, for with the +exception of the hotels, the bathing establishment, and a few shops, +there is nothing to form a town. Like Eaux Bonnes it is shut in by the +mountains on either side, but it is more oblong in shape, with two +parallel streets. The Promenade du Henri IV., which leads southwards +from the Hotel Baudot along the side of the river, is a cool and +pleasant walk, especially of an evening. + +Various opinions exist as to which place is most suitable for a +residence, the "Bonnes" or the "Chaudes." In spring probably the +former, but the latter certainly in summer; for not only is it free +from the bustling, gaily-dressed crowd which throngs its rival, but +there is a fresh breeze that blows up the valley which renders it +always cool and pleasant; while the scenery is as fine as the most +fastidious could wish for. + +The Col de Gourzy and the lofty Pic of the same name tower above Eaux +Chaudes, and a route to Eaux Bonnes--which to good pedestrians is well +worth the exertion--passes over the former. The path strikes off from +the Gabas road to the left, while yet in the town, and passes by the +Minvieille "buvette." For the first half-hour the route is the same as +that to the Eaux Chaudes grotto; this is an excursion, of two hours +there and back, that is in great favour with tourists. Where the path +forks, the one to the grotto is left on the right, and after some +fatiguing work the Plateau de Gourzy is reached, from which the view on +a fine day is splendid. The track then leads through beech glades and +box thickets to the "Fontaine de Lagas" (near which a wild and +beautiful valley branches off to the right), and finally joins the +Promenade Jacqueminot at Eaux Bonnes. Horses may be taken the whole +distance, but it is easier for them--if tourists choose this +highly-recommended route--when the start is made from Eaux Bonnes. + +It rained severely early on the morning of our departure, but later, +cleared up into a lovely day, enabling us to start at 8.30. The river +and the cascades were full, and the sun glinting on the wet leaves gave +a fairy-like appearance to this magnificent gorge. As we looked back +from the cascade, which seemed to tumble from the summit of the Pic de +Laruns, the clouds gradually rising over the head of the valley +disclosed a huge snow mountain [Footnote: The "cocher" called it the +Pic d'Estremere, but we had no confirmation of this] to view, that +appeared to form an impassable barrier 'twixt France and Spain. + +When we reached Laruns we had a fine view of its pointed peak, and +through the morning haze the lofty Pic de Ger over Eaux Bonnes looked +imposing indeed. Travelling we found very pleasant. There was no dust, +the air was cool, the roads just soft enough for comfort, and the whole +valley refreshed with the morning's rain. The people in the fields +worked with greater energy, and the bright scarlet hoods of the +damsels, many of whom followed the plough, gave a pleasant colouring to +an animated scene. We passed several flocks of geese, apparently +unwilling to proceed at as rapid a pace as the good woman--with her +frilled gaiters--who was in charge of them wished; but with those +exceptions we hardly met anybody or anything on the road till we had +passed Louvie. + +What we then met were a couple of carts filled with coal, and as we +never recollected having seen any such peculiar teams as they were +drawn by, we concluded they were "Ossalois," and "peculiar" to the +valley. There were eight animals to each cart, four bulls and four +horses. The bulls were harnessed in pairs (as in a four-in-hand coach), +and acted as wheelers, while the horses, acting as leaders, were +harnessed in line, one in front of another. Curious as this arrangement +seemed, they made good progress with a very heavy load! + +[Illustration: THE PIC DE GER.] + +At Sevignac a splendid Guelder rose-tree grew in a small garden over a +mill stream, and a very ancient dame very willingly sold us some +clusters which were peculiarly fine; in another garden a very fine bush +of white _cistus_ was completely covered with blooms. The +hedgerows, too, were bright with flowers; the wild Guelder roses and +medlars [Footnote: The "makilahs," or slicks peculiar to the Basque +people, are made from the wild medlar. They are very heavy, tipped with +iron, and unpleasant to carry.] preponderating, but elder bushes were +also plentiful, and covered with blossoms. + +At Rebenac we stopped at the Hotel du Perigord for coffee and a fifteen +minutes' rest, the horses not requiring any more, as the day was so +cool. While drinking the "welcome liquid" we watched an old woman out +of the window, spinning. Her distaff was apparently very old and dirty, +and as she span she seemed to be crooning some ancient ditty to +herself, thinking, maybe, of her children and grandchildren, or even of +the days when she was herself a child. + +We started again when the quarter of an hour was up, and bowled along +towards Gan, meeting on the way several natives (men) with their hair +in long pigtails, like Chinamen; they looked otherwise decidedly +_Bearnais_, but their appearance was peculiar, to say the least of +it. Beyond Gan we passed into full view of the lovely Coteaux, which +afford such pleasant rides and drives from Pau, and as we gradually +neared the town, the heat seemed to intensify to anything but a +pleasurable degree. + +Four hours forty minutes after starting we were once more under the +roof of Maison Colbert, with such a luncheon before us as fully +justified the hospitable repute that it has always borne. + +But Pau was far too hot for us to remain for more than a few days, +although the heat was unusually great for that time of the year, and we +were very glad when once more on our journey towards the pleasant +breezes and blue waters of the Biscay. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +BIARRITZ. + +A warm ride--Bayonne--A "Noah's ark" landscape--Amusements +--Bathing--Shells--Cavillers--A canine feat--The pier and rocks--A +restless sea--"The Three Cormorants"--Dragon's-mouth Rock--To the +lighthouse--Maiden-hair ferns--Mrs. Blunt's adventure--The drive round +the lakes--_Osmunda regalis_ ferns--The pine-woods near the +bar--St. Etienne and the Guards' cemetery--Croix de Mouguere--Cambo and +the Pas de Roland--Anemones--A fat couple--A French scholar +--Hendaye--Fuenterabia--A quaint old-world town--The Bidassoa +--Pasages--San Sebastien--The Citadol and graves--The "Silent +Sisters"--Raised prices--Parasols and spectacles. + + +The journey to Biarritz began comfortably enough, but after the first +few miles the heat became very oppressive, and though we had no +repetition of our Montrejeau experience at starting, we felt +nevertheless almost as warm as if we had. + +Our arrival at Bayonne was a great relief, for the sun had partially +retired, and as we crossed in turn the Adour and the Nive, a scent of +the "briny" was borne into our omnibus with revivifying effect. Passing +up one of the narrow old streets to execute a few commissions, we +regained the "Place," crossed the drawbridge, and entered the lovely +avenues, from which, beyond the "fosse," the twin towers of the +beautiful cathedral come into view. On the right is the station of the +"steam tram-line," and some hundred yards beyond it the road to +Biarritz curves in the same direction. + +This road cannot be called beautiful! The never-ending line of poplars +along each side turn the landscape into that Noah's ark style which +even the soul that could be "contented with a tulip or lily" would +hardly admire. Approaching Biarritz, however, the handsome villas and +their gardens fully deserve the epithet which cannot in justice be +applied to the road. They are indeed beautiful; and to pass them even +in winter, with the camellia trees laden with blossoms and the roses +scenting the air, makes comparison with our London gardens very odious +indeed! + +Under the small-gauge railway-bridge, and past the new "English Club," +we soon entered the town, [Footnote: The distance between Bayonne and +Biarritz is 5 miles.] and driving down the Rue Mazagran into the Place +Sainte Eugenie, drew up at the familiar Hotel de Paris, in time for +dinner. + +Although Biarritz is in the department of the Basses-Pyrenees, it is so +far away from the mountains that many might consider its introduction +into this volume as questionable; we do not therefore intend to say as +much as could be said about it. At the same time, it is so greatly +recommended by doctors as a beneficial spot for a final "brace up" +before returning to England, after a mountain trip, and is, besides, +such a favourite winter residence, that we consider it would be more +"questionable" to omit it. + +Unlike Pau, its amusements are not of a very varied character. In +winter, lawn-tennis and balls are the chief, and concerts occur +generally weekly or bi-weekly. As spring asserts herself, bathing +commences and picnics become the fashion; and in the early summer--as +long as the English remain--tennis and bathing go almost hand-in-hand. + +The tennis-ground--which is only a short distance from the English +church of St. Andrew's--is well laid out and commodious, possessing an +excellent reading room for members' use, as well. Of bathing +establishments there are three; the large building in the Moorish style +on the Plage, the less pretentious but more picturesque one in the Port +Vieux, and the least pretentious and least protected one, under the +"falaises" [Footnote: Blue chalk cliffs.] beyond. + +The first and last are only used in the height of summer; that in the +Port Vieux--from its sheltered position--opens its box-doors as soon as +winter really gives place to spring. The scene, when the tide is high +on a morning in June, is often an exceedingly pretty one, for to the +pristine picturesqueness of the surroundings is added those touches of +human nature enjoying itself, which, if it doesn't "make us kin," goes +a long way towards it. + +The "Port Vieux" is triangular in shape, with the apex inland, along +the sides of which the boxes are erected, reaching to the water's edge +at high tide. In the middle lies an expanse of deep sand, and the blue +waters roll in between the rocks and gently break on a shingly beach, +where the tiniest shells and pebbles mingle to make the one drop of +bitterness in the bather's cup. + +When the sandy expanse is crowded with merry children, the roads and +seats above filled with spectators, and the water with members of both +sexes in varied costumes and "headgears"--not forgetting the boatman in +the tiny skiff who is here, there, and everywhere in case he is +needed--the scene is a very pleasant one to look upon. Of course there +are always some narrow-minded individuals to find fault, some "maiden" +aunts "with spinster written on their brows," who will put up their +gold-rimmed glasses with that peculiar sniff that invariably prefaces +some _extra sweet_ remarks, such as, "Dear me, how wicked! Men and +women bathing together in that barefaced manner; and ... I do believe +there's that forward Miss Dimplechin actually taking hold of Captain +Smith's hand, and he a married man too! Thank goodness, I never did +such a thing--never!" [Footnote: Did she ever have the chance?] + +Above the Port Vieux, on the left, stands Cape Atalaya, with the ruins +of an ancient tower, and a flagstaff on its summit. A road leads round +its base, passing between a circular mound overlooking the "old +harbour," and the yard where the concrete blocks are fashioned for the +strengthening of the pier. + +There are seats on this mound, whence people can watch the bathing; and +we often saw a remarkable feat performed from it as well. A race of +wonderful water-dogs--said to be a cross between the Newfoundland and +the French poodle--is bred at St. Jean de Luz, eight miles from +Biarritz. One of their uses is to drive the fish into the nets, and for +this purpose one is taken in every boat that puts to sea. The method is +extremely simple. As soon as the net surrounds a shoal, the dog is put +in the centre, and by beating the water with his paws he effectually +drives the finny creatures into the meshes. It was one of this same +species of dogs that attracted so much attention at the Port Vieux by +leaping after a stick from the mound--a distance of some fifty +feet--into the sea. He would do it as often as his master would let +him, and appeared to enjoy it immensely, though he always reached the +water before the stick, and had then to turn round and hunt for it. + +The road, after skirting one side of the yard, crosses the trackway +that runs down the pier and doubles up the other side, through the +tunnel and past the Port aux Pecheurs, into the Place Ste. Eugenie; +whence, continuing by the base of the Hotel d'Angleterre and the +casino, it extends to the bathing establishment on the Plage. In the +other direction it rounds the Port Vieux, and leads under the cliffs to +the other resort of summer bathers; consequently, it might be +appropriately termed the "Chemin des Bains." + +The pier is a very favourite resort, and many a fierce fight with the +waves is enacted at its extremity, in which, alas! the sea has always +proved the stronger. As a rule, visitors are not permitted to pass the +"Cucurlon" rock, on which the Virgin's statue stands; but if the +weather is very fine, the gate is opened to admit of any who are so +minded going to the end. On a wild day, with a high wind blowing +inland, the "battle of the waves" is a fine sight, especially from the +platform erected below the flagstaff on Cape Atalaya. Thence the full +beauty of the huge billows, dashing into clouds of spray against the +pier, and, unallayed, pursuing their course with relentless energy till +they boom amid the hollow caverns of the hill, may be admired and +wondered at. + +There are two rocks which (as one looks seaward) rise up to the left of +the pier, and serve to break in some measure the force of the waves. +The larger of these in calm weather is frequented by cormorants, and +has gained the name of "Cormorant Rock." There were three of these +birds on it one very rough day, and we saw a scene enacted which--with +due apologies to the late Rev. Charles Kingsley for thus adapting his +pathetic verses--we have commemorated in the following lines, under the +title of + +"THE THREE CORMORANTS." + + Three cormorant dandies were perch'd on a rock, + Were perch'd on a rock as the waves dash'd high; + Each thought himself equal to any black cock, + And proudly determined the sea to defy. + For cormorants fish, and cormorants catch, + And they swallow their prey with the utmost despatch, + Without all the trouble of boning! + + Three cormorant damsels were waiting at home, + Were waiting at home for the dandies so dear. + "Oh, say! are they fishing where fierce billows foam?" + And the damsels sat chattering their bills with fear! + For cormorant maidens _can fish_ and _can catch_, + And each one considered she'd made a good match. + And now for her dandy was moaning. + + Three cormorant dandies were washed off the rock, + Were washed off the rock by a powerful wave; + And, quite unprepared for the terrible shock, + They sank in the depths of a watery grave. + For cormorants fish, and cormorants catch, + But if waves dash high they should use despatch, + Or their loved ones will always be groaning! + +There are some curious rocks in front of the new harbour, notably the +"Dragon's-mouth Rock," through which on a rough day the water +continuously pours; more to the right, between this and the "Plage," is +a curious group known as the "Chinaougue." [Footnote: Have never found +any one able to account for this title, which is more barbaric than +pronounceable.] A bridge communicates with the largest, on which +"petticoat daffodils" grow, and the couples that may occasionally be +seen going over there _doubtless_ do so to gather these. Beyond +the Port Vieux and underneath the Villa Belzar other curious formations +may be seen, to which an iron gate at the head of a few damaged steps +gives access. + +At Biarritz itself there is really nothing to be seen except the sea. +And yet this sea is so beautiful in its varied moods, that a lover of +nature can watch it day after day for any reasonable period, without a +feeling of _ennui_ or a wish for anything more lovely! + +[Illustration: THE ROCKS OF BIARRITZ.] + +There are many pleasant walks and drives around, but most of them +require a whole day, and are more preferable as a drive than as a walk. +The shortest is to the lighthouse and back, and this is only a very +easy promenade, taking about an hour; so we will deal with it first, +leaving the longer ones to await their turn. + +We started one afternoon when the sky was cloudless and the coastline +very clear, hoping to obtain a good view of the Spanish coast, and a +few specimens of maiden-hair fern, if fortune were favourable. We +traversed half the town, when Mrs. Blunt suddenly came to a halt +opposite the Hotel de France, and pointed to a three-wheeled vehicle of +the bath-chair type, to which a weird and very ancient-looking steed +was attached. "I think," said she, "that would be more comfortable for +me than walking; please inquire if it is on hire." So we applied to a +fat dame, who was busily knitting hard by, and having arranged terms, +Mrs. Blunt got in and we continued our way. + +Down past the bank and at an easy pace to what was once the Villa +Eugenie, [Footnote: This building, where Emperor and Empress lived at +different times, now belongs to a company under the title of the +"Palais Biarritz," and is employed as a casino and restaurant. "Sic +transit gloria imperatorum."] and continuing up the hill at the same +speed, we gradually drew near the lighthouse, and when once the Villa +Noailles was left behind and the level road reached again, we were soon +at our destination. [Footnote: At low tide there is a way to the +lighthouse along the beach in front of the Palais Biarritz, and up a +steep path over the rocks. The other is much the better way, however, +at all times.] The view of the coast to St. Jean de Luz, San Sebastien, +and almost to Santander, was peculiarly good, as well as that on the +other side in the direction of Bayonne; and while Mrs. Blunt remained +in contemplation from her vehicle, we descended to view the rocks and +caves below. + +As a rule it is unwise to disclose where botanical treasures grow, as +they generally become extinct soon afterwards, from excess of +admiration on the part of collectors; but the maiden-hair ferns, for +which the lighthouse rocks are known, can take very fair care of +themselves, as they grow in such awkward positions--we might say +dangerous--that only a few real enthusiasts, or an anxious collector +with a _steady head_, are likely to venture to attack their +strongholds. + +[Illustration: VILLA EUGENIE.] + +We saw many specimens in the interstices of the rocks surrounding a +moss-grown pool, but they were quite unapproachable. One clump above we +did manage to reach and bear away a few roots of, in triumph; but at +one time there was only two inches of stone for the foot to rest on, +with sheer rocks below; and consequently, without a rope, the +experiment would hardly be worth repetition. However, without mishap we +started on our return journey, and all went smoothly till the Villa +Noailles was again reached; but at this point we suddenly noticed that +Mrs. Blunt was rapidly out-distancing us. Whether the ancient steed +dreamt of its former youth and activity, and "grew young once more," or +whether its long rest had made it anxious to reach its stable, we know +not; but the unpleasant reality was forced upon us, that it was rapidly +bearing Mrs. Blunt away. Miss Blunt had been walking near the vehicle, +Mr. Sydney and rather behind; but as Miss Blunt started to run, we +rapidly followed, and overtook the steed, which, having by that time +pulled up at the bottom of the hill, appeared to be anxious to turn +round and have a look at Mrs. Blunt. As it neighed at the same time, +perhaps it was asking, "Who's my driver?" but this was mere conjecture +on our part, although we were not sorry to restore the animal to the +fat old lady--still knitting--and escort Mrs. Blunt back to the hotel, +none the worse for her little adventure! + +[Illustration: SCENE I.--BEFORE THE START.] + +[Illustration: SCENE 2.--THE ANCIENT STEED GREW YOUNG ONCE MORE.] + +[Illustration: SCENE 3.--WHO'S MY DRIVER?] + +The favourite of the short drives is known as the "Tour des Lacs." It +embraces the prettiest country in the vicinity, and the whole distance +is about six miles. We found it most pleasant to start, after lunch, +from the Place de la Mairie, turning up the Rue Gambetta past the +market and on to the "Falaises," where the sea-breeze blows fresh and +free. Keeping to the right where the road forks, the "abattoir" was +soon left behind and the Villa Marbella reached; we then curved round +"Lac Chabiague," and ascending slightly between fields gay with the +"fleur des frontieres" [Footnote: A lovely blue flower, something like +a gentian.] and the wild daphne, we dipped again slightly to the point +where the road to St. Jean de Luz forks to the right. Bearing to the +left between hedges overgrown with _sarsaparilla_, and entering a +shady lane, a few minutes sufficed for us to reach the "Bois de +Boulogne," where the road skirts the Lake Mouriscot, and passes beside +many splendid clumps of the _Osmunda regalis_ fern. The lake is +very deep and full of fish; but bathing is certainly not advisable, as +there is a great quantity of reeds and weeds all round the water's +edge. + +Leaving the pleasant woods, we emerged on to the Route Imperiale--the +direct road from the Negresse station (on the main line to Spain) to +Biarritz--and following it as far as the metals, we turned to the left +up the Irun-Bayonne route. This, however, was not our road for long, as +we took the first turning on the left-hand side up a pretty lane, which +brought Lake Marion into full view. The other end of the lane joins the +"Route Imperiale" again; which, leading in turn past the cemetery, the +parish church, and the terminus of the "steam tram-line," enters the +town near the International Bank. + +It will be noticed that there are several ways of reaching Bayonne. The +cheapest and most expeditious, for marketing or other business +purposes, is by the narrow-gauge railway, with its curious double +carriages, one above the other. By driving the two miles to the +Negresse station, and catching the express from Spain, is another way, +but one not recommended to anybody but travellers [Footnote: Travellers +for the Pau line have to change at Bayonne, consequently it is simpler +for them to drive the five miles from Biarritz direct to Bayonne, than +drive two to the Negresse station, with the necessity of changing ten +minutes after entering the train.] going to stations on the line +between Bayonne and Paris. Of the three routes for driving we have +already mentioned the most frequented one--at the commencement of the +chapter; from the Negresse station by the Bayonne-Irun road is another; +and the last and prettiest passes behind the Villa Eugenie almost to +the lighthouse, but there branches off to the right past the Chambre +d'Amour inn, to the pine-woods near La Barre, and thence into Bayonne! +This drive may be prolonged in two directions: firstly, by crossing the +Nive and the Adour to the Guards' cemetery (where those who fell in the +sortie from Bayonne 1813-14, are buried) at St. Etienne; and secondly, +by following the bank of the river for some distance (past the market), +and turning up into the country by way of St. Pierre to the Croix de +Mouguere. This latter makes a splendid picnic, and the locality is a +rich hunting-ground for entomologists. + +There are four other excursions that we must not omit to mention, viz., +Cambo and the Pas de Roland, St. Jean de Luz, Fuenterabia, and San +Sebastien. All of these, with the exception of the first, can be +reached by _rail_, and as far as St. Jean de Luz the _road_ +from Biarritz [Footnote: There is a more direct route to Cambo from +Bayonne.] is common to all; so that to save space we will only mention +it on our way to Cambo. + +Starting at an early hour with plenty of provisions, we bowled down to +the Negresse station, crossed the line, and ascended the hill above +Lake Mouriscot, at the top of which Bidart--the first of the Basque +villages--comes into view. + +Guetary (3 miles), standing on a hill to the southward, was next seen, +and in due time we reached St. Jean de Luz (8 miles), a town of over +4000 inhabitants (possessing a very good hotel and baths, and some +historical buildings), situated on a strip of sand between the River +Nivelle and the sea. Here the road to Cambo branched off to the left, +inland--the high road to Spain continuing near the seaboard--and +frequently skirting the Nivelle as far as St. Pee, we passed on by +Espelette to Cambo. The Hotel St. Martin there, which generally +attracts visitors for a few days at least, was not our destination; so +we took a glimpse at Fagalde's celebrated chocolate factory and the old +churchyard high above the river--while our horses were being +changed--and then resumed our journey to the Pas de Roland. [Footnote: +So-called from the fable that Roland, coming to the place and wishing +to cross, found the rocks barring his passage, so kicked them, +whereupon they parted for him to pass between.] The scenery now became +very charming, the winding river (Nive) adding much to the general +beauty, especially where it dashed out from between the rugged rocks of +the gorge with which Roland's name is associated. + +After exploring this narrow pass we found a suitable place for luncheon +and sat down. + +In returning, we halted near the village of Itsatsou, to gather some of +the lovely scarlet anemones [Footnote: A fee of 1 franc for one person, +or 2 francs for three, is expected for admission into the fields.] +which grow near there, and cover the fields with such a blaze of colour +as makes them conspicuous from a long distance. The rest of the journey +in the cool of the afternoon was very pleasant, but our route was the +same till reaching Bidart, where we curved to the left, and came by a +branch road (previously mentioned), _via_ the Villa Marbella and +the Falaises, back to our hotel. + +At dinner that night we noticed that there had evidently been some +"goings and comings" among the guests; and doubtless the new arrivals +were congratulating themselves on having succeeded in getting rooms in +the hotel--for be it understood this good house is nearly always full, +as it deserves to be. We missed with sorrow the familiar forms of Mr. +and Mrs. Berecasque, who, with all their bigoted hatred for anything +approaching to High Church notions, were as a rule exceedingly genial +and good-natured, as fat people usually are. + +The ladies certainly used to say that Madame had a perplexing way of +putting leading questions as to why somebody's daughter went with +somebody else's son, or what on earth could that nice gentlemanly young +curate (Low Church of course) see in that fast young lady who was +always working banners and such like enormities? But we never noticed +this; though that which on this particular evening probably no one +could fail to notice was, that their places were now occupied by a +couple of beings as strikingly thin as Mr. and Mrs. Berecasque had been +fat. We were told their name, but there was rather a buzz of +conversation going on at the time, and we might not have caught it +properly, but it certainly sounded like "Grouser." However, that does +not matter much; what is far more to the point is the amusement that +Mr. Grouser gave to those who had the privilege of sitting near him. +Apparently a self-made man, without any children--who by better +educations might have helped him to knowledge--his acquaintance with +the French language was like a peasant child's with turtle-soup; +perhaps "a lick and a promise" would best explain it. But though only +knowing a few words, which he pronounced with the vilest of accents, +and then only when he had inserted his glass in his eye, he brought +them out with ludicrous frequency whenever he had the chance. Here are +examples--"_Hi garsong!_ bring me another plate!" "_Garsong +poorquar_ don't you fetch some bread when I've asked three times for +it?" "_Hi garsong! sil voo plate_, where are those potatoes?" And +so on all through dinner; while he appeared rather to enjoy the +merriment he caused, thinking he must have said something really good, +although of course he hadn't the slightest idea what it was! + +To sketchers and lovers of contrasts a visit to Fuenterabia cannot fail +to prove a treat, and a better specimen of an old Spanish town it would +be difficult to find. The only convenient train in the morning thither +leaves early, and although we preferred driving, we made an early start +too, in order to spend a long day. Having accomplished the eight miles +and arrived at St. Jean de Luz, we had still a distance of 8 miles more +before reaching Hendaye, the frontier town. There were occasional +pretty bits of country to be seen, especially in the vicinity of +Urrugne (10-1/2 miles), a village in which the Spanish element is +noticeable, but the succession of poplars along the roadside all the +way--more or less--to Behobie, was very monotonous. At Behobie (14-1/2 +miles) the road to Hendaye leaves the direct route to Spain and +branches off to the right. Following this, we were soon at the +frontier. Hendaye (16 miles) is celebrated for its cognac and a certain +liquor called by its name, as well as for an excellent beach and +bathing establishment, beyond which there is little worth mention. +Having put up the horses at the Hotel de France, we repaired to the +jetty, where happily the tide was high enough to permit of our being +ferried across, instead of carried on the back of some brawny (and +garlicky) native. As we were half-rowed, half-poled, down the narrow +winding channel of the Bidassoa, we were once again indubitably "'twixt +France and Spain," though the vicinity of the ancient Spanish town, and +the lazy sentinels on the river's bank, made the scene much more +Spanish than French. Once landed, we strolled slowly across the +"_Embarcadero_," and entered the town by the ancient gateway. The +principal street, which we then ascended, is indeed picturesque. The +miniature verandahs and overhanging roofs of the houses, the latter +approaching so close to one another as nearly to permit of shaking +hands across; an occasional bright costume appearing at the window or +on the verandah; the old church higher up the street, and the battered +"Castilio" at the top, furnished ample materials for a very pleasant +sketch. The church is well worth a visit, being very old and of +interesting appearance. Owing to its sheltered position it did not +suffer nearly as much as most of the buildings from the missiles in the +late Carlist war. We passed several groups of lazy soldiers, who leered +at us offensively and made some uncomplimentary remarks, but +otherwise--beyond the fact that the women stared a good deal when Miss +Blunt attempted to sketch--we met with no discourtesy. The new casino +proves an "extra" attraction in summer, but it is to be regretted that, +for gambling purposes alone, many people should be drawn to this quaint +old-world town, so worthy of a visit for its picturesqueness alone. + +At the time when we wished to visit San Sebastien we learnt that the +"Citadol" was closed to visitors, owing to some foreigner having +foolishly lighted his cigar near a powder magazine. As the "Citadol" is +the chief attraction, we penned a highly polite letter to his +Excellency the Governor of the Province, asking for his permission to +visit this otherwise forbidden ground. + +We received a most gracious reply, to the effect that, whenever we +liked to come, the place was at our disposal, and accordingly selected +the first fine morning for our trip. On this occasion we formed a party +large enough for a coach and four, but were very careful to avoid a +repetition of our Betharram experiences. + +We discovered no new features of interest as far as Behobie, but the +day being very clear, we had a fine view of the distant Pyrenees and +the Spanish coastline from various points along the road. Passing +through Behobie's narrow streets and crossing the Bidassoa by the +strong stone bridge, we were only a minute "'twixt France and Spain," +and entering Irun found ourselves in the hands of the Customs +authorities. Having "nothing to declare" and nothing contraband +undeclared, we were soon permitted to proceed, although our "cocher" +almost immediately afterwards stopped to change horses. Accordingly, we +walked on up a pretty lane with ivied walls, near which--in the +background--stood an old church. Finding a comfortable place for +lunching in the vicinity, we awaited the arrival of the coach, and +discussed our hamper before again moving on. Not having too much time, +however, we did not delay long, and remounting, bowled merrily along to +"Pasages." This was once the safest port on the coast, and in fact is +yet; but the accumulation of sand, &c., at the entrance, has made it +practically useless for any ships but those of very light draught. It +forms a tidal basin, and houses are built on its sides, along one of +which the road for some time skirts, but afterwards assumes a straight +course and descends into San Sebastien. From the highest point of the +road, before we commenced descending, we had a splendid view of the +town, which looked busy, imposing, and clean. + +When once inside, we drove to the Hotel de Londres; then crossed the +street to the guardhouse, presented our "permit" for the "Citadol," and +after a little fuss and _red tapeism_--such as Spaniards, even +more than Frenchmen, dearly love--under the guidance of a soldier, +commenced the ascent. How many times we presented our "carta" we know +not, but at every turn some official was ready to ask to see it, and +this business took almost as long as the actual mounting, though in the +end we did manage to reach the summit. The view from thence was very +fine, extending for miles in all directions, but after enjoying it for +a short time, we descended to visit the graves of the English who fell +in defending the place in 1836 against the Carlists, which lie in a +little cemetery on one side of the hill. Maiden-hair ferns grow among +the rocks by the path, which from time to time discloses views of the +town and the pretty rocky island--Santa Clara--in the bay. After +descending, we had time for a glimpse at the interior of the church of +Santa Maria and the bull-ring, as well as a stroll along the beautiful +beach, before it was necessary to start homewards, and when at length +we were deposited in safety at our hotel, we all acknowledged that the +day had been a very pleasant one indeed! With such enjoyable drives, +and the tennis, and the ever-changing sea, we never found time hang +heavily on our hands; and if we had, there was the little railway to +carry us into the bustle of Bayonne for shopping or listening to the +band, where _ennui_ would speedily have been driven away. Speaking +of this railway reminds us that at Anglet, one of the stations on the +line, there is a very interesting convent of "Silent Sisters" within +easy access from the train. Although it is a sad sight to see all these +women deluded with the notion that their sins, however great, could not +be pardoned without such a bitter expiation; yet the order and +cleanliness that is patent everywhere, and the gardens and greenhouses, +lend an attraction to the place in spite of its melancholy +associations. [Footnote: Visitors are expected to purchase a specimen +of the needlework exhibited to them, or at any rate to put a donation +in the convent box.] + +When June has succeeded May, Biarritz begins to empty of its English +and American visitors, to give place in July to the Spaniards and +French. On the 15th of that month prices go up with a bound, often +becoming double and even treble what they were during the winter +season. This is the time to stroll on the "Plage" and watch the +bathing; to note the varied costumes, see the merry faces, and listen +to the children's laughter, mingled with the splash of the waves. But +we are only treating of spring, so must not encroach upon summer; +but--following our countrymen's example--bid "Au revoir" to Biarritz +before the glare forces us to parade the streets with blue spectacles +and double-lined parasols. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +CONCLUSION. + +"Where duty leads"--Resorts in the Eastern Pyrenees--Caen--"Riou"--Our +paths diverge--"The Lesson of the Mountains"--Farewell. + + +Although we have in reality come to the end of our tour, and have +consequently no more places to discourse on, it may be suggested that +our task is but badly ended if we omit to mention such resorts as +Amelie, Vernet, Molitg, and other spots, which, if of less importance +than those we have visited, are nevertheless _in_ the Pyrenees. +That they are _in_ the Pyrenees cannot be disputed, but being in +the eastern portion, the way of reaching them from the resorts among +the western heights is so roundabout, that but few people would think +of visiting both. However, for the information of any intending +travellers, we have collected what reliable facts we could about the +above-mentioned places--as well as Capvern, Preste-les-Bains, +Panticosa, and a few others--which will be found in the general +information [Footnote: See Appendix A.] at the end of the volume, and +will, we trust, be of service. + +We have but little left us now to do but to take our leave, though we +have one little incident to record, which, though it occurred far from +the Pyrenees, resulted, nevertheless, from our visit. + +Travelling slowly homeward by the route through Normandy to Cherbourg, +we stopped a few days at the delightful town of Caen. While there--in +consequence of negotiations that had been carried on for some +time--Miss Blunt had her desires gratified by the arrival of a fine +Pyrenean puppy--like a small white bear with brown points--from +Cauterets, one of the identical pair about which we had such a lively +scene with the old French fancier. He was christened "Riou," after the +Col of that name, and his owner has very kindly drawn his portrait among +his native hills, to adorn these pages. + +[Illustration: "MY PAW IS ON MY NATIVE HEATH, AND MY NAME IS 'RIOU.'"] + +Our party did not break up till we reached Weymouth, but after that our +ways diverged. We were by no means glad to part, the memories of our +trip being very pleasant ones, and we can hardly think of a more +delightful way of spending a couple of months than in driving about +these beautiful mountains. The people are so pleasant, and hotels so +moderate (in the spring-time), and the country in the full beauty of +spring is at its best; and yet, as a rule, the few English and +Americans who do go, wait till the season begins, with its crowds, +heat, and extra expense, and the fiery sun has effectually cleared the +mountains of that snowy mantle which was their greatest charm. + +We were once asked, "Are not the Pyrenees very bare mountains, without +any trees or herbage?" We could only repeat, what we have so often +asserted in this book, that the foliage on the mountain slopes is +magnificent, and their fertility and wealth of flora are of the highest +order. + +They are indeed so beautiful in every way that they cannot fail to +touch many a chord in the heart of any lover of nature. At one moment +hid in mists, at another clear and stately under a cloudless sky; in +winter, wrapped completely in their garb of snow, trees and grass and +rocks and all, only to reappear under spring's influence, still +retaining their snowy crown, but with their slopes bright with the +contrasting tints of beech and fir, oak and maple, interspersed with +banks of bright gentian and fields of golden daffodils; what could be +more lovely than a scene such as this, with the morning sun gilding the +snow summits, or the last rays of a roseate sunset lingeringly bidding +them "Farewell"? + +As we then follow their example, we do not think we could make a more +fitting ending than these lines, written amid those lovely scenes, and +entitled + + +"THE LESSON OF THE MOUNTAINS." + + Look on yon mountain peaks, + Mark how each summit seeks +Upward to lift its crest, base earth to spurn. + Tow'ring above the plain, + Over the weak and vain, +Ever for realms of light seeming to yearn. + + Look at each snowy crown, + Whiter than softest down, +Oh! in what majesty thus are they drest! + See how the setting sun + Kisses them one by one, +And slowly, solemnly, goes to his rest. + + Look to the brilliant sky; + --Dark though the clouds be, nigh-- +Wavelets of gold grandly float 'neath the blue. + Mark where the shades of green + Mingle with crimson's sheen, +Till evening's dread decree curtains the view. + + Hark to the drenching rain! + Hark how it beats the pane! +While the fierce fitful blast sweeps on its course. + Fiercer yet swells the gale, + Hark to the long-drawn wail! +Tenfold more dire--in the darkness--its force. + + * * * * * + + See! morning's golden rays, + Breaking night's gloomy haze, +Tinge with a burning glow every proud height; + Storms beat on them in vain, + Steadfast they will remain, +Till the eternal day swallows up night. + + * * * * * + + So may thy soul aspire + Ever to climb up higher, +Spurning the world's delights, caring for none; + Shunning vain pomps and shows, + Seeking but calm repose +In the "Hereafter," when life is done. + +[Illustration: "See! morning's golden rays, Breaking night's gloomy +haze, Tinge with a burning glow every proud height."] + + So may'st thou yearn to wear, + Like ev'ry angel there, +Vestment as pure as snow, spotlessly white; + And on thy face to shine +That radiancy divine, +God's own unquenchable, immortal light. + +[Illustration] + + And, if life's courses seem + Pleasant, like some sweet dream, +Be thou beware of the evils around: + Paths seeming paved with gold + Oft mighty sins enfold, +Oft where the sea looks still, quicksands abound. + + Or should the trials come, + Shatt'ring thy earthly home, +Dashing fond hopes and despoiling thy life: + Meekly thy burden bear + To Jesus' throne, and there +Thou wilt find rest and help--strength for the strife. + + Then, when Heav'n's morning breaks, + And ev'ry soul forsakes +This baser earth, and flies to its last rest, + Chastened by cold and heat, + Wash'd by the storms that beat, +Oh, may thy spirit soar 'mid God's own blest! + + +THE END. + + + + +APPENDIX A. + +GENERAL INFORMATION CONCERNING THE PRINCIPAL TOWNS AND VILLAGES IN THE +PYRENEES, INCLUDING NOTES ON THE MEDICAL PROPERTIES OF THE BATHS AT THE +CHIEF RESORTS, AND THE EXCURSIONS IN THE VICINITY. + + +N.B.--_The following sign (||) attached to hotels, &c., in this +portion of the book, signifies that the Author can personally give his +recommendation._ + +AMELIE-LES-BAINS [Footnote: For routes thither see Appendix B.] +(678 ft.), on the River Tech, in the Eastern Pyrenees. A winter resort, +with a dry, clear air, tonic and slightly irritant, and a mean +temperature during the months of January, February, and March (taken +collectively) of 48-1/3 deg. Fahr. The average number of fine days in the +year is 210. The baths are naturally heated from 100 deg. to 144 deg., +according to the distance from the source. They contain soda in +combination with sulphur, carbon, and silica, with a very small +proportion of the carbonates of iron and lime. They are recommended in +skin diseases, affections of the throat and kidneys, and for chronic +rheumatism. The season lasts throughout the year. + +Bathing Establishments.--Thermes Pujade; Thermes Romains. With +hotel accommodation at both. + +Hotels.--Pujade, Romains; Du Kursal, Farret, and Martinet. + +Post and Telegraph Office, Cafes, Casino, Theatre, &c.--Living +is by no means expensive. In the first-named hotels the charge per diem +ought not to exceed 7frs. 50c. for "pension"; in the others it is +cheaper. The bathing establishments have excellent accommodation, +twenty-seven baths, a large swimming bath, inhaling rooms, etc.: There +are doctors in connection with the baths and others resident in the +town. The scenery around is very pretty, and rich in groves of olive, +cherry, cork, and fig trees, besides banks of heather and ferns, and +clusters of honeysuckle. + +The Chief Excursions are:-- + +Prats de Mollo (2618 ft.), 12 1/2 miles by mule path--15 by +road; carriage (23 francs with pourboire) 5 1/4 hours. + +Inns.--Maillard; Guin-Come. + +Preste-les-Bains, 19 miles--8 1/2 hours; carriage 33 francs with +pourboire. + +Roc de France (4698 ft.): splendid view; 6 1/2 hours there and +back. A stiff climb, fully compensated for by the expanse of scenery to +be seen from the summit. + +Gouffre de la Fou, 4 hours there and back--guide necessary to +descend to the bottom of the "Gouffre," for which the "espadrilles" +(cord sandals) must be worn. + +Col de Faitg, Massanet, 6 hours there and back--a very charming +and picturesque excursion. + +La Junguera, 20 miles; carriage 23 francs, i.p. [Footnote: +i.p., including pourboire.] The first Spanish village over the +frontier; an interesting drive. + +Le Pertus (958 ft.) 152 miles. There and back 6 hours. Carriage +23 francs, i.p. [Footnote: i.p., including pourboire.] + +From Amelie to Perpignan, or vice versa, 23 1/2 miles; a +carriage with luggage costs 28 francs, i.p. [Footnote: i.p., including +pourboire.] + +Carriages and Horses may be hired at Labrunie's or Victor +Olive's. + +Guide.--Bertrand Oms at Aries. + + +ARCACHON [Footnote: The Chaplain, Mr. Radcliffe, has issued an +excellent guide-book for the locality.]--Situated in the forest, and on +the shores of the basin of the same name. The English season is in +winter, the French in summer. A favourite resort on account of its mild +and sedative climate. Most people live in villas in the forest during +the winter, where the strong winds are not felt, and where the mean +temperature is 50 deg. Fahr. The calmness of the atmosphere, and the strong +scent from the pines, has a beneficial tendency for those suffering +from chest complaints. + +To those who find it relaxing, Biarritz is recommended as a suitable +change. + +Hotels.--Grand (on the Plage), Continental, Grand du Foret, &c. + +Pensions.--Villa Riquet || (Mons. Olle, proprietor), Villa +Montretout, Villa Peyronnet, and Villa Buffon. + +Chaplain.--Rev. W. Radcliffe. + +English Church, in the forest; services every Sunday. + +Cabs, during the day from 6 A.M. to 8 P.M. The course: + +1-1/2 frs. with one horse; 2 frs. with two horses; by the hour, 2-1/2 +and 3 frs. respectively. + +Horses and Donkeys, 2 frs. and 1 fr. the hour, respectively. + +Boats, from 2 frs. the hour, by arrangement. + +Bankers and Money Changers.--Dubos and Mauriac, opposite Grand +Hotel. + +Post and Telegraph Office, Chemists, Grocers, &c. + +Casino. + +Principal Drives and Excursion are:-- + +To Moulleau, 2 miles through the forest. + +To La Teste, 3 miles. + +To the Oyster Beds, in the centre of the bay, on the Ile des +Oiseaux. + +To the Lighthouse at Cape Ferret, across the basin, whence the +Biscay can be seen. + +To the Dune de la Grave by boat, and across the forest to La +Teste, visiting the giant trees (this must only be undertaken with an +experienced guide). + +ARGELES (1528 ft.), on the River Azun, in the Hautes-Pyrenees; +with a genial climate that makes it a favourite resort very early in +the year. Some few people use it as a winter abode also. Living costs +"en pension" from 9 to 14 frs. per diem. + +Hotels.--De France; D'Angleterre || (cheaper than the France). + +Carriages.--At Limoges, || can be hired for the afternoon +--with one horse, 5 frs.; 2 horses, 8 frs.; 4 horses, 10 frs.; or by +the day, or for any special excursion. + +Horses, also from M. Limoges. For the afternoon, 4 frs.; for the +day, 8 to 10 frs. (N.B.--These are spring prices, and not those of the +season.) + +Chemist.--M. Buale, near the Post Office. + +Post and Telegraph Office, and a few shops. + +The Chief Excursions are:-- + +To the Villages of Ges, Serres, Salles, and Ourous--a lovely +ride, 2 hours; horses, 4 frs. each, pourboire, 1/2 fr. + +Drive round the Valley, via Argeles station, the Chateau de +Beaucens, Pierrefitte, and St. Savin, 2 hours 30 min.; carriage with 4 +horses, 11 frs. 50 c., i.p. + +Le Balandrau (1729 ft.). Lovely walk; one hour there and back. + +Pic de Pibeste (4548 ft.) An easy climb: splendid view from the +summit. + +ARGELES-SUR-MER, 13-3/4 miles from Perpignan. In the midst of +fertile fields. Ruins of the Castle de Pujols in the vicinity. + +Hotels.--D'Angleterre, De France. + +ARLES-SUR-TECH (909 ft.), in the Eastern Pyrenees. Chief town of +the canton and the principal commercial centre in the Tech valley. +2-1/2 miles from Amelie, which was formerly known as Arles-les-Bains. +Trade with Algeria in apples; and in whip-handles with the whole of +France. Old twelfth-century church in the town; and outside, behind a +grating, lies the tomb of the Saints Abdon and Sennen. + +Hotels.--Rousseau, Pujade. + +ARREAU (2190 ft.), at the junction of the valley of Louron with +the Aure valley, in the "Hautes-Pyrenees," 23-3/4 miles from Bagneres +de Bigorre and 19-1/4 from Luchon, on the direct mountain road. (Route +Thermale.) + +Hotels.--De France, || D'Angleterre. + +Post and Telegraph Office, Chemist, Grocer, &c. + +In the town are the Chapelle de St. Exupere, with a good view from the +belfry; the Church of Notre Dame; and the ancient market-place. There +are manganese mines in the vicinity. + +Excursions to Cardiac, 2 miles. Sulphurous baths, with hotel +accommodation. + +To the forest of Riou-majou and the falls of Mail-Blanc and Ejet. Over +the Col de Plan to the Spanish villages of St. Juan, Gestain, &c. Up +the Vallee de Lastie to the Monne de Luchon (7044 ft.). + +ARRENS (2950 ft.), in the valley of Azun, in the High Pyrenees, +on the Route Thermale, between Eaux Bonnes (19 miles) and Argeles +(7-1/2 miles). + +Hotels.--De France et de la Poste, De la Paix. + +Guides.--Jean Lacoste, M. Gleyre. + +Excursions (for which it is an excellent starting-point).--Mont +Baletous, 10,318 ft. (the most dangerous point for the ascent--from +Eaux Bonnes it is much easier), 4 hours to the summit. Guide absolutely +necessary. + +Lac Miguelon and Pic d'Arrouy--11 hours there and back; a +much-recommended trip. + +Pic de Cambales, 9 hours (9728 ft.); an easy ascension; recommended. + +ARUDY, in the Basses-Pyrenees, on the direct road from Oloron to +Eaux Bonnes or Chaudes; 17-1/4 miles from Oloron and 2 from +Louvie-Juzon. Grotte d'Arudy in the vicinity. + +ASPIN, a small village in the Aure valley, Hautes-Pyrenees, +below the Col of the same name, on the road between Bigorre and Luchon. + +ASTE, a village at the entrance to the Gorge de Lheris, near +Bagneres de Bigorre--to which refer. Ruins of an ancient castle in +which Gabrielle d'Estrelle lived. Church of 16th century. Visited by +Pitton de Tounefort, the naturalist. + +BAGNERES DE BIGORRE (1808 ft.), standing at the mouth of the fine +valley of Campan and the lesser one of Salut. It is one of the most +celebrated bathing resorts in the Pyrenees, and is very rich in +springs. The climate is mild, and while the season only lasts from the +1st of June to the 15th of October, several English make it a residence +all the year round. It is in a great measure protected from the winds, +though they blow occasionally strongly and chillily; snow is a rare +visitor in the town, and with Argeles it shares the honour of being +among the earliest "changes of air" from the warmth of Pau. There are +nearly 50 springs divided between 17 establishments, and there is +hardly any known or unknown malady for which they cannot be +recommended. They may be divided into four classes: 1st, saline; 2nd, +ferruginous; 3rd, saline and ferruginous; 4th, sulphurous. They are all +naturally heated. The temperature ranges from 64 deg. to 123 deg. Fahr.; +and amongst the hottest is the "Salies," which contains a certain limited +quantity of arsenic, and is only used for drinking purposes. It is said +to be beneficial in laryngitis, ulcerous diseases, and affections of +the mouth and throat. + +The Principal Establishment is known as the Thermes de +Marie-Therese, and contains 7 different springs, and 38 baths of +Pyrenean marble. In the winter the price for a bath (simple) varies +from 1 fr. to 1 fr. 60 cents, including linen. For a douche-bath 1 fr.; +a footbath 60 cents; and for other varieties from 1 fr. 25 cents to 3 +frs. Every visit to the drinking-fountain costs 10 cents. In summer a +simple bath costs from 1 fr. 25 cents to 2 frs., and douche-bath the +same, while the others range from 1 fr. 25 cents to 5 frs. + +The other most important establishments are those of Grand Pre, Sante, +Salut, and Lassere, while the water of Labassere is brought daily to +the town for drinking purposes. + +This water of Labassere is sulphurous, and is considered highly +beneficial in cases of chronic bronchial catarrh, congestion of the +lungs, pulmonary consumption, spasmodic coughs, skin diseases, and +chronic laryngitis. See Labassere in Appendix. + +Grand Pre has three springs, in all of which iron is present; +two are naturally heated, and are considered efficacious in scrofulous +diseases, nervous rheumatism, and general debility. The other spring, +which is cold and used only for drinking purposes, has a decided tonic +action. + +Sante possesses two sources, one of which is artificially +heated; they are of a saline nature. These are _par excellence_ +the "Ladies' Springs," and have great efficacy in cases of overwork, +shock to the nervous system, general nervousness, and neuralgia. + +Salut possesses three sources of different temperatures, +employed in baths and for drinking purposes, as well. Except in very +hot weather the water is inodorous, but its sedative properties have +placed it in the first rank. It has been used with great benefit in all +nervous complaints, hypochondria, hysteria, intestinal complaints, +indigestion, &c., its action being also diuretic. + +Lasserre has one source only, slightly bitter and inodorous, +containing sulphate of magnesia, which renders its action laxative. It +is useful in cases of obesity, liver affections, and others of that +type. + +For the other establishments and springs, which have likewise their +special uses, the reader is referred to the 'Guide to Bigorre,' and +Joanne's Guide-book to the Pyrenees. + +Hotels.--Beau Sejour; Paris; De Londres et d'Angleterre; Du bon +Pasteur; Frascati; &c. &c. + +Banker and Money Changer.--D. Ortalis, 16 Place +Lafayette. + +Doctors.--(In summer only) Dr. Bagnall from Pau, Promenade St. +Martin. Dr. Couzier, 27 Rue du Theatre (all the year). Dr. Dejeau, 30 +Allee de Coustous (ditto). + +Chemists.--M. Nogues, Place Lafayette; and M. Jouaneton, 22 +Place de Strasbourg. + +Restaurant.--M. Vignes, Place Lafayette. + +Nurses.--Les Soeurs de l'Esperance, 9 Avenue de Salut. + +Draper.--Cornet, Allee des Constons, No. 22. + +Grocer (selling English goods of all kinds).--M. Peltier, 5 +Boulevard du College. + +Confectioners.--Mdme. Cheval, Rue du Centre, 19. M. Toujas, No. +10 same street. + +Carriages.--Courtade, Place des Pyrenees, No. 14; Pourponnet, 3 +Rue Labrun. + +Horses.--Bourdettes, 25 Place Lafayette. + +There is service all the year in the small English Church, and the +present chaplain, the Rev. J. Grundy, M.A. Oxon., is always willing to +assist visitors in any way, and glad to accept the offer of their +services in the choir. + +The cost of living in the winter averages 10 frs. in the best hotels, +and between 7 and 9 in others; but the prices rise considerably in +summer. + +Post and Telegraph Office, Theatre, Casino, Museum and +Reading-rooms in the town. + +Guides.--Fages, senior and junior, 8 Rue de Lorry; Idrac, Rue +Longue; Arnaune, Rue de Lorry. + +Principal Excursions:--[Footnote: For _full_ particulars of +these and all excursions, the reader is referred to P. Joanne's +'Pyrenees'; Mr. Packe's 'Guide to the Pyrenees for Mountaineers'; and +Count Russell's 'Grandes Ascensions des Pyrenees' (French and +English).] To Aste, Gerde, Lourdes, Campan, Baudean, Ste. Marie, the +Col d'Aspin, and up the Bedat and the Monne. Refer to Chapter II, for +information. + +Caesar's Camp, 2 hrs. there and back, by the village of Pouzac. + +Les Allees dramatiques, 2 hrs. there and back, riding--3 hrs. +on foot; between the Bedat and the Monne, a pretty walk. + +The Slate Quarries and Spring of Labassere, 6 hrs. there and +back; 1-1/4 hrs. to Labassere; 2 hrs. to the Quarries; 3 hrs. to the +Spring. Guide 6 frs.; horses 10 frs. each. + +The Mont-Aigu, 10 hrs. there and back, guide 15 frs. The view +from the summit is immense; it extends over three valleys. + +The Vallee de Lesponne and the "Lac bleu," 9 hrs. there and +back. Carriage-road to the end of valley; mulepath the remainder of the +way. Guide 8 frs., horse 10 frs. + +Gripp (10 miles). Carriage-road all the way. Same road as far as +Ste. Marie as that to Col d'Aspin. + +Pic du Midi de Bigorre, 6 hrs. 45 min. to the summit; Guide 6 +frs., horse 10 frs. A magnificent excursion, but easier from Bareges. + +Pene de l'Heris, 2 hrs. 45 min. to summit. A pleasant excursion. + +Houn Blanquo, 9 hrs. there and back. Guide 8 frs., horse 10 frs. +A splendid mountain panorama in view, from the summit. + +Puits de la Pindorle [Footnote: See footnote p. 226.]--a natural +ice-cave, spoken of by Mr. Packe as "unique in its kind in the +Pyrenees"--8 hrs. there and back. Guide and ropes necessary. + +BAGNERES DE LUCHON (2065 ft.).--A lovely town in the Western +Pyrenees (Hautes), situated near the junction of the Pique with the +One, at the mouth of the Larboust valley, and in the western angle of +the valley of Luchon. + +The most fashionable of all the Pyrenean watering-places. + +Season.--1st of June to the end of October; but most charming in +May and early June. + +The Bathing Establishment is a very ponderous building, +containing accommodation second to none. The springs are nearly all +naturally heated, varying from 103 deg. to 150 deg. Fahr.; they may be divided +into four classes: 1st, sodium sulphate; 2nd, saline; 3rd, bicarbonate +of iron; 4th, saline, but cold. The sulphur springs are considered the +best and most complete series known; and the iron are principally used +for drinking purposes. The waters of Luchon are considered specially +beneficial for chronic bronchitis, rheumatism (articular and muscular), +vesical catarrh, reopened wounds, fractures, scrofulous and cutaneous +affections, and ulcers. In cases where there are complications, nervous +excitement, or paralysis, a medical man should always be consulted +before venturing to bathe. + +There is an iron spring near the Castelvieil, 1-1/2 miles from Luchon. + +In the "Etablissement Thermal" the terms range from 60 cents to 4 frs. +There are baths of all kinds, and it is advisable, if the bather wishes +to bathe at any special time, that he should enter his name in the book +kept for that purpose, as soon as he arrives. In the season there is +always a great pressure of visitors, and otherwise the bather may have +to wait an hour or two for his turn. There was once a Museum +above the baths, this has now been removed to the splendid +Casino which stands in beautiful grounds, not far from the +Post and Telegraph Office--entrance I franc. + +Hotels.--Canton, || Richelieu (very large but not recommended), +Grand, Bonnemaison, Paris, d'Angleterre, d'Etigny, de France, des +Bains, Monteil, du Parc, de la Paix. + +Apartments.--Of all descriptions, in the Allee des Bains, Rue +Neuve, Cours d'Etigny, Allee des Veuves, &c. &c. + +Doctors.--Several, both attached to the baths and independent. + +Carriage and Horse Proprietors.--Almost innumerable, but Jean +Sanson is recommended, Rue d'Espagne. + +Guides.--For the summits (French): Pierre Barrau, Rue de Pigue, +Aurillon, Lafon fils, Capdeville senior and junior, Fermin Barrau. +(Spanish) Francisco. For ordinary excursions and hunting: Jean and Luis +Sanson; Jean Brunet, chamois-hunter (recommended for all ascensions +from the Lac d'O). + +Tariff for drinking the waters only.--During season, 8 days, 4 +frs.; 20 days, 8 frs.; 30 days, 10 frs. + +Carriage on Hire (from the stand).--The "course," 1 franc; the +hour, 3 frs. for one horse; and 1 fr. 30 cents, and 3 frs. 75 cents +respectively, for two horses--by day. By night, for one horse, 2 frs. +50 cents the "course," and 4 frs. the hour; for two horses, 3 frs. 25 +cents and 5 frs. respectively. + +For all excursions there is a recognised tariff, which may be seen at +the Mairie; and an excellent local guide-book and map is published for +2 frs. by Lafont. + +The Chief Excursions:-- + +For Superbagneres (horses and guide 5 frs. each respectively, +hay on the summit 1 fr. out of the season, but 2 frs. more each person +in the season), Vallee du Lys (20 to 25 frs. for a landau), Bosost +(carriage _via_ St. Beat, 45 frs., horses via the Portillon 5 frs. +each, guide 6 frs.), Montauban (an easy walk), the Orphanage of Notre +Dame du Rocher (a short and pleasant walk), St. Mamet (little more than +1/2 mile), the Rue d'Enfer (an easy climb from the Vallee du Lys), the +Tour de Castelvieil (about two miles from Luchon), &c. &c. Refer to +Chapter X. + +The Val d'Esquierry (4839 ft.), 11 miles.--Carriage-road as far +as Grange d'Astos (25 to 30 frs.) very rich in flora. + +To the Hospice de Prance and the Cascades--des Demoiselles, et du +Parisien, 9 1/4 miles. Carriage-road all the way. Landau, 25 frs.; +but 4 frs. per seat in the Hospice diligence there and back. + +To the Port de Venasque and the Pic de Sauvegarde, returning by +the Port de la Picade; 10 miles to the Port de Venasque--1 hour further +to the summit of the Pic de Sauvegarde; 11 miles from the Port de la +Picade to Luchon. Time, 10 to 11 hours there and back; but this fine +excursion is rendered more enjoyable by sleeping at the Hospice +(_vide_ above), and starting early next day for the summits. + +The Valley Of Oueil and the village of Bourg (9 1/3 +miles). Carriage there and back, 30 frs. From Bourg the Pic de +Montne can be ascended. Splendid sunrise view from summit. Guide +recommended if ascension is made by night; horses 7 frs., guides 10 +frs.; or by day 7 frs. + +Lac d'Oo (10 miles).--Carriage-road for 8 miles. Landau, 25 frs. +This lake, also called Seculejo, is full of salmon-trout, and there is +a very fine cascade (820 ft.) on the far side, to which visitors can be +ferried. Fare for one person 1 1/4 frs.--for more, an arrangement can +be made. There is a small toll levied on every person who visits +this lake--no matter whether they patronise the little inn or not! + +Saint Beat.--By carriage 25 frs., or by rail to Marignac and +diligence afterwards (12 1/2 miles). Refer to Chapter XI. + +L'Antenac.--6 1/2 hours to the summit and back. Horse and guide +each 6 frs. An enjoyable excursion; and the whole distance can be +ridden. + +Pic Spijoles.--4 1/2 hours from the Lac d'Oo--a difficult +ascension. + +Pic de Crabioules.--13 hours up and down. Guide necessary. +Splendid view. + +Pic Quairat.--5 hours from the Lac d'Oo. Guide necessary. + +Le Cecire.--8 hours up and down. Guide and horses 6 frs. each. + +Pic Sacroux,--8 1/2 hours to the summit and back. Very fine +view. + +The Peaks Bacanere and the Pales de Burat (11 3/4 +miles).--9 hours there and back. Horses and guides from 5 to 8 frs. +each, according to season. One of the most charming of all the +excursions from Luchon. + +L'Entecade.--7 hours in all. Guides and horses 6 frs. each. A +much-regimented climb. Splendid view from summit. + +Pic de Poujastou.--8-1/2 hours in all. Guides and horses 6 frs. +each; an easy climb. + +The Mont Maudits or Maladetta Group, the highest in the +range, including the Pic de Nethou (11,169 ft.), Pic 'du Milieu (11,044 +ft.), Pic de la Maladetta (10,867 ft.), Pic d'Albe (10,761 ft.), and +the Pic Fourcanade (9456 ft.), are so difficult and perilous, and +require such excellent guides, that the reader is referred for +information to Mr. Packe's and Count Russell's books, previously +mentioned. + +_Note_.--Carriages from Bigorre to Luchon, 43-1/2 miles, +_via_ Arreau, 80 to 100 frs., 5 to 10 frs. pourboire, out of the +season; 100 to 130 frs., and pourboire 10 frs., in the season. + +BAREGES (4084 ft.), situated in a barren rocky gorge above Luz, +in the Hautes-Pyrenees. It may be called the "Old Soldier's Resort," +as the waters are specially efficacious for gunshot wounds. + +The fine Bathing Establishment contains 30 separate bath-rooms, +besides 3 douche-rooms, a spray-room, foot bath-room, &c. The springs +vary in heat from 71 deg. to 112 deg. Fahr., and are of a similar nature, +all containing large proportions of sulphur and baregine. Dr. Lee says, +"The water when drunk has a diuretic, diaphoretic, and expectorant +action; the bath, by its general and local stimulating properties, +cleanses foul ulcers,... promotes the exfoliation of carious portions +of bone and subsequent cicatrisation, and frequently causes foreign +bodies which have been long imbedded ... to make their way to the +surface." It is also highly beneficial for old bullet-wounds, neuralgic +affections, rheumatic pains, and stiff joints. + +Hotels.--Del'Europe, De France, Des Pyrenees, Richelieu. Board +and lodging from 10 to 15 frs. per day in the season (15th of June to +September). No hotels open in winter, as the village is covered with +snow. + +The Climate even in summer is variable--great heat is frequently +followed by great cold, necessitating the wearing of woollen +under-clothing, which should always be taken. + +Bathing Tariff, &c.--Baths and douches from I fr. to 2 frs. 50 +cents. For each visit to the drinking-room 5 cents; subscription for +one month, 10 frs. + +Apartments.--One room, from 2 frs. 50 cents to 6 frs. per day, +according to position and size. + +Doctors at the Establishment, a few independent, and others from +Luz. + +[Illustration: TWIXT FRANCE AND SPAIN PANORAMA OF THE HIGHER PYREAN +CHAIN.----VIEW TAKEN FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE PIC DU MIDI DE BIGORRE.] + +Post and Telegraph Office in the season. + +Carriages, Horses, and Asses in abundance; apply at the hotels. + +Guides.--Of the 1st class: Bastien, Teinturier, Michael Pontis, +Menvielle, &c. &c. for the lofty peaks; several of the 2nd class for +minor excursions. + +Chief Excursions::-- + +For the Promenade Horizontale and the Vallee de Lienz, refer to +Chapter VI. + +Pic de Nere.--6 hrs. there and back. Beware of vipers. + +Pic du Midi de Bigorre.--8 hrs. up and down. Guide and horses, 5 +frs. each. The favourite excursion in the vicinity, and one of the +finest in the Pyrenees. The panorama which is annexed is on a fine day +truly magnificent. Horses can be taken to the summit, where there is an +excellent inn. + +Lacs d'Escoubous.--2 hrs. to the Lac d'Escoubous; 2 hrs. 30 min. +to the Lac Blanc; 2 hrs. return. Guide 4 to 6 frs., horses ditto. + +Pic d'Ayre.--6 to 7 hrs. up and down. Horses can be taken within +1/2 hr. of summit. Guide 6 frs., horses ditto. + +Pic de Lienz.--5 hrs. up and down. A pleasant climb. See Chapter +VI. + +Le Neouville.--12 hrs. by the Col d'Aure, there and back. Guide +necessary--10 frs. Splendid view over all the higher Pyrenees. + +BAUDEAN.--A village in the Campan valley on the Route Thermale, +between Bigorre and Luchon, in the Hautes-Pyrenees. + +BAYONNE.--City and first-class fortress in the Basses-Pyrenees, +on the Adour and the Nive, standing some 2 miles from the shores of the +terrible Biscay Bay. On the direct line from Bordeaux to Biarritz and +Spain. + +Hotels.--St. Etienne, Du Commerce, Ambassadeurs, St. Martin, De +la Bilbaina, De la Guipuzcoaena, and Du Panier fleuri. Rail to Negresse +station for Biarritz; also narrow-gauge railway to Biarritz _via_ +Anglet. + +Splendid twin-towered cathedral, ancient fortifications, &c. Excellent +market and good shops, which are more reasonable than at Biarritz. + +Post and Telegraph Office, English Vice-Consulate, &c. + +Cabs.--The course 1 fr., the hour 2 frs. 25 cents and 50 cents +extra respectively for 2 horses. + +Chocolate.--Fagalde. + +Excursions to Cambo (10 miles), Croix de Mouguere, Lc., see Chapter +XIII. + +BEHOBIE.--A village in the Basses-Pyrenees, on the direct road +to Spain, 14-1/4 miles from Biarritz. + +BETHARRAM.--A pleasantly-situated village in the +Basses-Pyrenees, once a favourite pilgrimage. There is a lovely bridge +in the vicinity, and the Via Crucis just midway between the village and +the bridge. It is situated on the direct road from Pau to Lourdes, and +is 15 miles distant from the former, and 9-1/4 from the latter. The +station on the railway, "Montaut-Betharram," is about 2 miles from the +village. + +Inns.--De la Poste, De France. Celebrated grotto in the +vicinity. + +BIARRITZ, a favourite English winter resort on the shores of +the Biscay, in the Basses-Pyrenees--2 miles from the Negresse station +on the direct line to Spain, and 130 miles from Bordeaux. Living during +the winter is considerably cheaper than at Pau, but the winds are much +stronger and the air more bracing. Biarritz makes a valuable change +from both Pau and Arcachon. It is free from epidemics, and beneficial +in cases of paralysis, as well as chest and heart complaints. + +Hotels.--De Paris et de Londres, || Il Grand Hotel, D'Angleterre +(the favourite hotel with English people), Des Ambassadeurs, De France, +Il Des Princes, De l'Europe, De la Poste, &c. + +Apartments.--All over the town, varying in price according to +position. Maison Brocq, || Maison Larrode, || Maison Broquedis. + +English Pension.--Villa du Midi, || Rue des Champs. + +Doctors.--Dr. Welby, || Rue Gambetta. Dr. Malpas; Dr. +Girdlestone. + +Carriages.--Mauemus, || Place St. Eugenie. Larrondat, Place de la +Marie. + +Libraries.--One in connection with the English Church. Lending +library at Victor Benquet's, Place de la Marie (stationer, Lc.). + +Confectioners.--Figue, || Rue Mazagran; Miremont.|| Place de la +Marie. + +Photographer.--P. Frois, Rue du Port Vieux. + +Banker.--E. H. Bellairs, Esq. (Vice Consul), International +Bank. + +"Depot Anglais," for wines, groceries, and English provisions, +&c. + +English Club, Post and Telegraph Office. + +For principal excursions refer to Chapter XIII. + +BIDART.--The first Basque village, 3 miles from Biarritz on the +direct route to Spain--railway station, Bidart-Guetary. + +BIELLE.--A village in the Basses-Pyrenees, on the road to Eaux +Bonnes, in the Val d'Ossau, 18-1/4 miles from Pau. Inn, des Voyageurs. + +BILHERES.--A village on the slopes of the Val d'Ossau, above +Bielle, in the Basses-Pyrenees--celebrated for the copper mines in the +vicinity. It lies in the direct track from the Val d'Ossau to the +Vallee d'Aspe. + +BlLLERES.--A small village near Pau, in the Basses-Pyrenees on +the road to the ancient town of Lescar: the locally well-known "Bois de +Billeres" take their name from it. + +BIZANOS.--A village below Pau, on the Gave, in the +Basses-Pyrenees, on the direct road to Lourdes. + +BOO-SILHEN.--A village and railway station on the line from +Lourdes to Pierrefitte, in the Hautes-Pyrenees. There is the site of an +ancient camp in the vicinity. + +BOSOST.--A village in Spain (18 miles from Luchon by the +Portillon), under the shadow of the Eastern Pyrenees, in the valley of +Aran. This is a most pleasing excursion from Luchon, either on +horseback via the Portillon, or in a carriage via St. Beat. See Chapter +X. Inn, Fonda d'Espana. + +CAMBO.--A small picturesquely-situated bathing resort on the +banks of the Nive, 10 miles from Bayonne, in the Basses-Pyrenees. A +favourite excursion from Biarritz, with the extra attraction of good +fishing. + +Bathing Establishment, with a hot sulphur and cold ferruginous +spring. The former has proved useful for its diuretic and laxative +qualities, and efficacious in cases of languor following long +illnesses: the latter is very rich in iron, and a useful tonic. + +The Climate is exceedingly healthy in spring and autumn, but too +warm in summer. + +Hotel.--St. Martin. + +Chocolate Manufactory.--Monsieur Fagalde's. + +Doctor.--M. Albert Dotezac. + +Carriages, Horses, and Asses, at various rates. + +CAMPAN (2192 ft.)--A village in the Hautes-Pyrenees (3-3/4 miles +from Bigorre) situated in the valley of the same name--on the direct +road from Bigorre to Luchon; possesses an ancient church and +market-place. + +CAPVERN.--A bathing resort in the Hautes-Pyrenees, built on a +hill two miles distant from the bathing establishments, which are +erected in a narrow ravine. One of the stations on the main line +between Toulouse and Pau, being 78 miles distant from the former and 56 +from the latter. The climate is mild, and the season lasts from the 15th +of May to the 1st of November. + +Two Bathing Establishments--De Hount-Caoudo and de Bouride. The +water principally contains sulphate of lime with a small proportion of +carbonate of iron: its action is diuretic and laxative. It is an +excellent and bracing tonic, stimulating to the digestion, and has also +been beneficially employed in cases of catarrh and certain liver +complaints. The Hount-Caoudo spring has an exciting tendency; that of +Bouride a sedative one. + +Hotels.--Grand, Beau Sejour, De Fontaine, De la Paix, Des Bains, etc. + +Post and Telegraph Office in the season. CASTETS.--A small +picturesquely-situated village in the Hautes-Pyrenees--off the high +road between Pau and Eaux Bonnes--under a mile from Louvie Juzon. +Lodging can be obtained at M. Fouga's. + +CAUTERETS (3254 ft.)--A town situated in the gorge of the same name in +the Hautes-Pyrenees, seven miles distant from Pierrefitte, the terminus +of the line from Lourdes. It is said to be the most rich in mineral +waters of any resort in the Pyrenees. From its position in a hollow, +surrounded by lofty and beautiful mountains, it is frequently visited +with a good deal of rain, and the climate is subject to severe changes +in temperature, especially in spring, when the mornings and nights are +cold. The season proper begins about the middle of June and lasts to +the 15th of September. Living out of the season averages about 10 frs. +per diem, but is much greater when once July has arrived, and +consequently it is always best to write and make terms beforehand. + +There are Nine Establishments for the Waters, among which twenty-four +springs are divided. The springs may be classed under two +heads--firstly, sodium sulphate; 2ndly, saline--both naturally heated. + +The three most important establishments are--Les Oeufs, La Raillere, +and Les Thermes de Vieux Cesar. The others are--Le Rocher-Rieumiset, +Manhourat et Les Yeux, Pauze Vieux, Pauze Nouveaux, Petit St. Sauveur, +and Le Pre; in addition to which there are two "buvettes," known as +Buvette de Cesar and Le Bois. The waters at the Cesar Vieux are the +most exciting of all, and prove beneficial in scrofulous and cutaneous +affections, rheumatism, and tumours. Les Oeufs are specially +efficacious in lung complaints; La Raillere is used successfully in +affections of the respiratory passages; Mauhourat is specially +recommended to aid the digestion of La Raillere's water; while Les Yeux +are beneficial for affections of the eyes--as the name suggests. Le +Petit St. Sauveur is efficacious in cases of hysteria and similar +complaints. + +Hotels.--Du Parc, || Continental, De France, Richelieu, Des Promenades, +Des Boulevards, De la Paix, De Londres, Des Bains, D'Angleterre, etc. + +Apartments to be found in all parts. The price of a single-bedded room +varies from 3 to 10 frs. in the season. Much less at other times. + +Doctors, in connection with the "Thermes," and many independent +ones. + +Chemists.--J. Latapie and M. Broca--both in the Place St. +Martin. + +Confectioners.--Patisserie Suisse, Rue Cesar; Patisserie +Pyreneenne, Rue de la Raillere. + +Horses and Carriages in plenty--good steeds at +Dominique's, Rue de la Raillere. + +Guides.--Sarrettes, Clement Latour, Latapie, Barraga, Bordenare; +and also Berret, Lac Dominique, and Pont Dominique. + +Post and Telegraph Office, Theatre, Casino, &c. Tariff +for bathing, &c., similar to other resorts. + +Horses for Excursions cost about 12 frs. for the day, for +an ordinary trip 6 frs.; and for a few hours' ride 4 to 5 frs., with 50 +cents to the ostler. + +Carriage from Argeles, 20 frs. with luggage; pourboire 3 +frs. + +The Chief Excursions are:-- + +To the Col de Riou.--Splendid view. Guide 6 frs., horses 6 frs. +Can be prolonged down the opposite side to St. Sauveur. + +To the Cascade de Cerizey, Pont d'Espagne, and Lac de +Gaube.--Guides each 8 frs., horses 6 frs. The favourite trip. + +Le Cabaliros.--6 hrs. up and down. Guide 10 frs., horses 10 frs. + +Le Monne.--7 hrs. up and down. Horses and guide 10 frs. each, +donkey 8 frs. Splendid view. + +Pic d'Enfer.--8-1/2 hrs. and 12 hrs. respectively by the two +routes. Good guides necessary--a difficult climb. + +For the Vallee de Lutour refer to Chapter V. Pic +d'Ardiden.--9 hrs. Guide essential--an interesting climb. + +Pic de Vignemale,--18 to 20 hrs. not including rests. Guides, +hatchets, and ropes necessary. Magnificent view from summit, but a very +difficult trip. + +CIER-de-Luchon.--A small village in the Haute Garonne, 4-1/2 +miles from Luchon on the railway from thence to Montrejeau. +CIERP.--A small village at the foot of a rock in the Pique +valley--dep. Haute-Garonne--near Marignac, station for St. Beat on the +line between Luchon and Montrejeau. COARBAZE.--A village in the +Basses-Pyrenees on the road between Pau and Lourdes. Railway station on +line connecting the above places; 10-1/2 miles from Pau. The ruins of a +castle in the neighbourhood, in which Henry IV. spent his childhood. +Refer to Chapter I. DAX.--A town on the Adour, and junction for +Bordeaux from the Bayonne and Pau lines. Celebrated for its baths, +which are of three kinds, steam, mud, and water. There are several +bathing establishments, but the Grand Etablissement is the best, where +board and lodging can be also obtained, at an all-round figure, +including baths, of from 10 to 15 frs. per diem. These baths are very +useful for affections of the larynx, articular enlargements, and most +kinds of rheumatism and neuralgia. When drunk the water has a tonic and +diuretic effect. + +Hotels.--De la Paix, Du Nord, De France, Figaro, De l'Europe. + +There are enjoyable walks about the town and some old ruins; and in the +vicinity a bed of fossil salt. + +EAUX BONNES is a miniature Spa hemmed in by the sides of a +wooded gorge in the Basses-Pyrenees--27-1/2 miles from Pau and 6-1/4 +from Eaux Chaudes; railway communication as far as Laruns ought now to +be established: refer to Chapter XII. The waters, hot and cold, consist +of five springs, sulphuret of sodium being largely present in all, and +sulphate of lime in a less degree. There are two establishments +--the Grand and the Ortech; but the former is far the most +commodious, though the water is used for drinking purposes almost +more than for bathing. The temperature varies in the different springs +from 54 deg. to 88 deg. Fahr. The waters are specially recommended in +cases of pulmonary consumption and affections of the air passages--also +for chronic maladies of the abdominal viscera, intermittent fevers, +hypochondria, and hysteria. + +The Tariff is similar to that at the other Spas. Season, +July and August. + +The Climate is mild, but warm in summer. + +Hotels.--De France, || Princes, Empereurs, Richelieu, Poste, +Europe, Sallenave, Des Touristes, D'Espagne et d'Orient, De l'Univers, +etc. + +Apartments all over the town. The following are a few of the +houses that let rooms:--Bonnecaze, Pomme, Berdou, Tourne. Living in +hotels during the season costs from 10 to 20 frs., according to +_etage,_ per diem. + +Chemists.--Cazaux fils, and Tourne. + +Confectioners.--Patisserie Suisse. + +Post and Telegraph Office.--The Route Thermale runs from +Eaux Bonnes to Argeles, 26-1/2 miles: see Chapter XII. + +Doctors in connection with the baths, and independent ones. + +Horses and Carriages at the hotels, etc. + +Guides.--Orteig, Lanusse, and Jean Pierre for lofty summits; also +Maucor and Caillau, who, with Lanusse, are Horse proprietors +as well. It is necessary to bargain about prices, as there +is no fixed tariff, but 10 to 13 frs. per diem for ordinary +trips ought to suffice, without providing food--with food, 3 or 4 frs. +less. + +The Chief Excursions are:-- + +For the Col de Gourzy and the Cascades du Valentin refer to Chapter +XII. + +Pic de Ger.--10 to 12 hours there and back. Guide 20 frs. and +provisions necessary. Magnificent view. + +Le Gabizos.--Whole day; provisions, liquor, and guide necessary. +A tiring climb, but one of the finest views in the Pyrenees. + +Pic de Goupey.--7 hours up and down; guide necessary. + +Pic de St. Mont.--9 hours up and down, easy climb, guide not +necessary. + +Lacs d'Anglas et d'Uzious.--Guide and provisions necessary; a +whole day; splendid excursion. + +EAUX CHAUDES.--Another miniature Spa--less contracted in its +position, but equally picturesquely situated in a wild gorge in the +Basses-Pyrenees, 27-1/2 miles from Pau. The climate is bracing, but on +account of the situation of the town it is not so good a residence for +invalids with chest complaints as Eaux Bonnes--as the wind sweeps up +the valley unchecked. It is, however, a glorious place for healthy +people to stay in, and a good centre for excursions. + +The Bathing Establishment is a fine building with good accommodation. +There are seven important springs and two of less consequence; +and they partake of the same nature as those of Eaux Bonnes, +though the temperature extends about 10 deg. Fahr. higher. They are +largely charged with sulphur and lime, in combination with carbon and +soda, and have an exciting action. They are especially useful in cases +of catarrh, rheumatism, cutaneous diseases, and neuralgia. The +"buvettes" of Baudot and Minvielle are largely patronised. + +Hotels.--Baudot, || De France; and more expensive accommodation +at "L'Etablissement Thermal." + +Prices are less than at Eaux Bonnes. In the season they range from 10 +to 16 frs., but from 8 to 12 at other times, "En Pension."--For one day +or less than a week no fixed price can be quoted. + +Doctors.--One in connection with the establishment. + +Horses and Carriages to be obtained at the hotels or from the guides, +who are mostly horse proprietors. + +Guides.--Camy, Labarthe, Larrouy, Eugene Olivan, Jean Sallenave. +Tariff not fixed, but 7 to 9 frs. per diem without providing food is +sufficient, and 5 to 8 frs. for horses--though this is only for +ordinary excursions and not perilous ones. + +Bathing Tariff.--Similar to that of other Spas. + +Chief Excursions are:-- + +Goust.--1 hour there and back; mule track. + +Grotte des Eaux Chaudes.--2 hours there and back--for lights and +permit 1 fr. 50 c. each is charged, guide 2 frs. + +Gabas and the Bious-Artigues.--See Chapter XII. Rather over 8 +miles; carriage road to Gabas, fine and pleasant trip. + +Baths of Panticosa.--13 to 15 hours by the mule track; a +favourite way into Spain. + +To Huesca by Sallent and Jaca, a very lengthy trip, requiring +several days. + +Pic Scarput.--10 hours up and down; a very fine climb. + +Lac d'Artouste.--10 hours up and down; a viper region. + +Pic d'Arriel.--10 hours up and down; an exceedingly fine view +from summit, but not an easy climb. + +Le Balaitous--14 hours. For ascension only, it is necessary to +have good guides (at least two), as well as provisions, and to pass the +night on the mountain in the Cabanes near the Lac d'Artouste. A +difficult excursion, not unattended with considerable danger. + + +FONTARABIE (Fuenterabia, Sp.). A quaint old Spanish town on the +left bank of the Bidassoa, just across the frontier, well worthy of a +visit. About equidistant from the stations of Hendaye (Fr.) and Irun +(Sp.) on the direct line from Bordeaux to Madrid. A pleasant excursion +from Biarritz. + + +GABAS.--A village in the Basses-Pyrenees, 5 miles from Eaux +Chaudes, near the famous plateau of the Bious-Artigues. Inn +accommodation can be had, and it is a good starting-point for several +excursions. + + +GAN.--A village in the Val d'Ossau in the Basses-Pyrenees, 5 +miles from Pau. The road from Pau forks here, one branch leading to +Oloron (15-1/2 miles), the other to Eaux Bonnes and Eaux Chaudes +(22-1/2 miles). There are some mosaics under a shed in the vicinity. +Hotel (such as it is), Des Voyageurs. + + +GAVARNIE (4380 ft.). An unpretentious village with good hotel +accommodation, situated among some of the most magnificent scenery in +the Hautes-Pyrenees, 13 miles from Luz. For full description of the +Cirque of Gavarnie refer to Chapter VIII., also for the Falls of +Marbore, 1380 ft. + +Hotels.--Des Voyageurs;|| De la Cascade. + +There are several Mountains to be ascended in the neighbourhood +requiring experienced guides; among which are Le Pimene, the Breche de +Roland, Le Taillon, Le Gabietou, Le Marbore, Pic d'Astazou, and the +Mont Perdu; but for further information the traveller is referred to +the previously recommended authorities. + +No Guides have a better reputation than those of Gavarnie, and +of these Henri Passet and Celestin Passet have made all the great +ascents of the French and Spanish Pyrenees; Pierre Pujo, Pierre Brioul, +Poc, and Haurine are also men of experience in mountaineering. + +[Illustration: CIRQUE OF THE VALLEE DU LYS NEAR BAGNERES-DE LUCHON.] + +Horses to the Cirque, 2 frs. each. Guides, 2 frs. each. +Asses, 1 1/2 fr. each. + +GAZOST-les-Bains.--A village in the Vallee du Nez, 7 1/3 miles +from Lugagnan (the nearest station), on the line between Pierrefitte +and Lourdes, in the Basses-Pyrenees. The baths, fed by four cold +sulphurous springs, are less than 3/4 of a mile from the village, where +there is a large sawmill. Very few people visit the baths, and they are +in a miserable state. There are copper, zinc, and argentiferous lead +mines in the neighbourhood. + +Rooms at the Chalet de la Scieric. + +GEDRE (3214 ft.).--A poor village in lovely scenery (see +engraving, page 122), on the side of a rocky gorge in the +Hautes-Pyrenees, 8 miles from Luz and 4 from Gavarnie, on the direct +road between the two. + +Hotels.--Des Voyageurs, Palasset. + +For information on the so-called Grotte de Gedre see Chapter VIII. The +two chief excursions from Gedre are those to the Vallee de Heas +and the Cirque de Troumouse, though they may be considered as one trip +here. From Gedre to the chapel of Heas 2 to 2 1/2 hours, from the +chapel to the fork of the road 1/2 hour, and from thence to the Cirque +1 hour. This is a very fine excursion, occasionally undertaken from Luz +and St. Sauveur. + +GERDE.--A village in the Campan valley, in the Hautes-Pyrenees, +near Bigorre. Known chiefly for the _palomieres_ or pigeon traps +among the trees above it. See Chapter II. + +GRIPP (3448 ft.).--A well-situated village in the +Hautes-Pyrenees, on the Route Thermale, between Bigorre and Bareges, 2 +1/2 miles from Ste. Marie. Tourists often find the Hotel des Voyageurs +comfortable enough to keep them there for a few days. A little beyond +the village on the old road are the Baths of Bagnet, supplied by +a cold sulphurous spring; they do not, however, call for much mention. +The Falls of Garet are in the immediate vicinity. + +GRUST.--A small village in the Hautes-Pyrenees. Refer to Sazos +in Appendix. + +GUETARY.--A Basque village in the Basses-Pyrenees, 3 miles from +Biarritz. The railway station, Bidart-Guetary, on the line between +Bordeaux and Madrid, is not far from the village. + +HEAS.--A hamlet in the Hautes-Pyrenees, five miles from Gedre +and eight from Gavarnie, by the Pimene. + +Inn.--De la Munia, kept by Victor Chappelle, hunter; besides +whom, Jacques Canton and Francois Lavignolle, chamois-hunters, are +excellent guides. Chief excursion to the Cirque de Troumouse. See +Gedre. + +HENDAYE.--The French frontier town on the Bay of Biscay in the +Basses-Pyrenees, known for the manufacture of a liqueur of the same +name. French Custom-house; station on the line between Bordeaux and +Madrid. Good beach and bathing. Boats can be hired to cross the +Bidassoa to Fuenterabia, at about 2 frs. for 3 persons; for information +concerning which see Chapter XIII. + +Buffet at the station. + +Money changed. + +Hotels/.--De France, Du Commerce, Americani. + +IRUN.--The Spanish frontier town and railway station on the +direct line between Bordeaux and Spain. Spanish Customhouse. + +Buffet at the station, also a money changer. + +Hotels.--Echenique, De Arupe. + +IZESTE.--A village in the Basses-Pyrenees, near Louvie-Juzon and +Arudy, on the road between Eaux Bonnes and Oloron. + +JACA.--A fortified town of Spain on the banks of the Aragon, +521/2 miles from Oloron, on the direct route to Huesca, from +which it is 571/2 miles distant. + +LABASSERE.--A village in the Hautes-Pyrenees, celebrated for its +waters and slate quarries (refer to Bagneres de Bigorre). It is 11/2 +hrs. distant from Bigorre; but its quarries take 1/2 hr. longer to +reach, and the springs 1 hour after that. The celebrated water is +bottled at the springs, but it is also sent in casks for use in +Bagneres de Bigorre. + +LAMOTHE.--A small village in the Landes, 25 miles from Bordeaux. +Junction for Arcachon, 10 miles distant. + +LARUNS.--An important though tumble-down village in the Val +d'Ossau, in the Basses-Pyrenees, 31/4 miles from Eaux Bonnes and the +same from Eaux Chaudes. The railway from Pau now extends to Laruns, 24 +miles (see Chapter XII.), but the drive is more enjoyable, except on a +dusty day. The picturesque costumes of the Ossau valley may still be +seen occasionally at this village. + +Hotels.--Des Touristes, Des Pyrenees. Living economical. + +LESCAR.--An ancient and decaying town, 41/2 miles from Pau by +rail. Several interesting ruins, &c., for which refer to Chapter I. + +LOURDES.--A town in the Hautes-Pyrenees, and railway station on +the direct line from Pau to Toulouse, and junction with the line to +Pierrefitte. The great Roman Catholic Pilgrimage, having now quite +eclipsed Betharram, much visited formerly as a shrine. The grotto where +the Virgin is supposed to have appeared is by the riverside. An +admirable panorama represents the scene at one of these imaginary +apparitions of the Virgin--known as Notre Dame de Lourdes, and always +represented in that connection with a blue sash. Five and twenty years +and superstition have transformed Lourdes from a little village into a +fair-sized town, overloaded with hotels, of which the traveller is +advised to be wary, especially during the pilgrim season, when the beds +are apt to have other occupants than the "weary traveller's form." The +Hotel des Pyrenees may be trusted. + +Hotels.--Des Pyrenees || (Mons. R. Lacrampe); Latapie; De la +Grotte, De la Poste, De Paris, De l'Europe, De la Paix, D'Angleterre, +&c. + +Excellent Carriages on hire in the town and at the hotels. + +Excursions to the Lac de Lourdes, &c. + +LOURES (1445 ft.).--A village in the Hautes-Pyrenees, 17 1/2 +miles from Luchon and 3 from St. Bertrand de Comminges (see Chapter +XI.), for which it is the station on the railway between Luchon and +Montrejeau, and carriages await trains. + +Hotels.--Pyrenees, Lassus. + +LOUVIE-JUZON.--A village in the Val d'Ossau, Basses-Pyrenees, 16 +miles from Pau, n. from Eaux Bonnes, and less than a mile from the +ruins of the ancient castle of Geloz. There is a curious old church in +the village, and the inn where the diligence daily halts is known as +the Hotel des Pyrenees. + +LOUVIE SOUBIBON.--A small village at the foot of a mountain +worked for its slates, 4 miles from the above. + +LUZ (2410 ft.).--A well-situated village in a fertile valley in +the Hautes-Pyrenees, 6 1/4 miles from Pierrefitte, the terminus of the +line to Lourdes, 1 1/4 from St. Sauveur, and 3 3/4 from Bareges. From +the last-named it receives water for its new Bathing Establishment (see +Bareges in Appendix). + +Hotels.--De l'Univers, || Des Pyrenees, De l'Europe, &c. + +Apartments may also be obtained. Living is not on the whole +expensive, but from July to September from 10 to 16 frs. may be +charged--much less at other times (say from 7 to 10). + +Carriages and Horses, Asses and Guides can be +obtained for the various excursions (for which see St. Sauveur in +Appendix). + +Post and Telegraph Office. + +For description of the old Church of the Templars and the Chateau St. +Marie, &c., refer to Chapter VI. MAULEON-BAROUSSE.--In the +valley of Barousse, Hautes-Pyrenees, 3 1/4 miles from Salechan, on the +line between Montrejeau and Luchon; 4 1/2 miles from Ste. Marie (not to +be confounded with the Ste. Marie near Bigorre). + +Inn.--M. Grillon's. + +MOLITG-les-Bains (1480 ft.).--Built on a terrace above the +Castellane Gorge in the Pyrenees Orientales, 5-1/2 miles from Prades +and 31 from Perpignan. + +The Bathing Establishments (of which there are three) are +situated a mile below the village, in the gorge, and they are supplied +by 10 springs of a similar nature, largely charged with sulphate of +soda, and of temperatures varying from 88 deg. to 100 deg. Fahr. The +water has emollient and sedative properties, slightly diuretic, and is +especially useful in diseases of the skin and nerves. + +The Climate is very mild in winter, but hot in summer; and the +season extends from May to October. + +Hotels.--The best accommodation is to be had at the bathing +establishments Barrere, Llupia, and Massia, all of which belong to M. +Massia, who is a doctor by profession. + +Chief Excursions are:-- + +To Olette by the Gourgs de Nohedes (11 hours there and back). + +To the Baths of Carcanieres (about 11 hours there _only_) +_via_ Mosset. + +MONTAUBAN.--A village in the Hautes-Pyrenees, 1-1/2 miles from +Luchon (see Chapter X.), known for its church and cascade. + +MONTGAILLARD.--A village on the banks of the Adour, in the +Hautes-Pyrenees, 5 miles from Bigorre: station on the line between +Bigorre and Tarbes. + +MONTREJEAU.--A town standing on an eminence above the river in +the Haute-Garonne, junction for Luchon from the Pau-Toulouse line. + +Hotels.--Leclair (fine situation); Pouget, well-known; &c. + +Buffet at the station. Refer to Chapter XI. for further +information. + +MORCENZ.--A town in the "Landes" district, 68 miles from +Bordeaux, and junction for the Tarbes-Bigorre line. There is a small +bathing establishment in the town, supplied by a cold chalybeate +spring; and a quarry of lithographic stone in the neighbourhood. + +Buffet at station. + +Inns.--Commerce, Ambassadeurs. + +NAY.--An ancient village in the Basses-Pyrenees, on the left +bank of the Gave de Pau. Station, Coarraze-Nay, on the line from +Pau to Lourdes; 10-1/2 miles from the former and 14 from the latter. +Tanneries, &c., and ancient buildings. See Chapter I. + +Inns.--Du Commerce, De France. + +NEGRESSE.--The station for Biarritz (2 miles from the town), on +the direct line between Bordeaux and Madrid. + +NESTALAS.--A village in the Hautes-Pyrenees, near Pierrefitte; +the station being known as Pierrefitte-Nestalas, the terminus of the +line from Lourdes. Hotel accommodation at Pierrefitte (which see in +Appendix). + +OLORON.--A town on a hill above the river of same name, in the +Basses-Pyrenees, 20 miles from Pau, by Gan and Belair. Its suburb +(across the river) Sainte Marie possesses a fine old church of the +Transition style. The railway was to be opened this year (1883) in +communication with Pau and Laruns. Oloron is celebrated for some +exquisite pottery, that can be bought in all the chief Pyrenean resorts +_except_ the town itself. + +Hotels.--De la Poste, Des Voyageurs, De l'Aigle. + +Oo.--A small village with an ancient church, in the +Haute-Garonne, 5-1/2 miles from Luchon, and 4-1/2 from the lake of the +same name. + +Guide.--Jean Brunet. + +ORTHEZ.--An ancient town situated on a hill above the Gave de +Pau, in the Basses-Pyrenees. The Tour de Moncade, in the vicinity, has +great historic interest, besides which there is an ancient bridge and +other remains of olden days (see Chapter I.). Coach to Salies (10 +miles), and Mauleon-Licharre (27 miles). + +Inns.--De la Belle-hotesse, Des Pyrenees, &c. + +PAILLOLE (or Payole).--A village in the Hautes-Pyrenees, 11-1/4 +miles from Bigorre, on the Route Thermale, _via_ the Col de +Peyresourde to Luchon. See Chapters I. and IX. + +Inn.--De la Poste. + +PANTICOSA.--A village in Spain, 24 miles from Cauterets, +celebrated for its waters. The bathing establishments are fed by four +springs of the sulphurous type. They are variously used for dyspepsia, +rheumatism, skin diseases, scrofula, and chronic (non-tubercular) +chest affections. They have a purgative and sedative action. + +Hotels.--Accommodation can be best obtained in the nine +different bathing establishments belonging to the same proprietor; +there are also the D'Espagne and FrancoEspagnol. + +Horses.--At about 5 to 7 francs per diem, at the Maison Borda. + +Doctors.--Attached to the establishments. + +PASAGES.--A village on the shores of a tidal bay in Spain, 30 +miles from Bayonne and 6-1/4 from Irun. It was once the safest port in +the Biscay. Refer to Chapter XIII. + +PAU (770 ft.).--A former capital, and most important town on the +right bank of the Gave of same name, in the Basses-Pyrenees. A +favourite winter resort with English and Americans, possessing hotels, +markets, and shops of the best and most varied descriptions. An +excellent starting-point for a tour in the Pyrenees. For history, &c., +see Chapter I. + +Hotels.--France, || Poste, || Gassion, De la Paix, Splendide +Bellevue, Beau Sejour, || Grand Continental, De Londres, Henri IV., &c. + +Pensions.--Colbert, || Hattersly, Etcherbest, Lecour, &c. + +Apartments.--All over the town. + +Season.--1st of October to end of May. + +Villas. Can be hired furnished, for the season, at prices +varying from L8 per month to L80. + +Baths.--Rue Alexander Taylor, and 13 Rue d'Orleanb, &c. + +Carriage Proprietors.--Ranguedat, || Crohare, || &c. Lc. + +Horse Proprietors.--Estrade, || Peiho, || Lanusse. + +T-Carts and Good Ponies.--Schuerch, Rue de la Fontaine. + +English Churches.--Trinity Church, Rue des Temples; Christ +Church, Rue Serviez; St Andrew's Church, Rue Calas; Presbyterian +Church, Rue Montpensier. + +Bankers.--Merillon, || will take English cheques, &c.; Mr. +Church, English Vice-Consul; Mr. M. Clay, U. S. ViceConsul; Tricou, &c. + +Post and Telegraph Office, Reading--Rooms, Theatre, Casino, +&c. + +English Club.--Place Royale. + +For the principal Excursions and sports and pastimes, refer to +Chapter I.; for trips to Eaux Bonnes and Eaux Chaudes, refer to Chapter +XIII. + +PAYOLE.--See Paillole in Appendix. + +PERPIGNAN.--A large town on the river Tet, in the Pyrenees +Orientales, junction for Prades (station for Vernet), from the Toulouse +line and starting-point of the coach for Amelie; 132 miles from +Toulouse, 25 1/2 from Prades, 29 1/2 from Molitg, 32 1/2 from Vernet, +and 23 1/2 from Amelie. It is fortified; celebrated for its garnet +jewellery; and situated in a valley covered with groves of olive and +pomegranate, and fruitful vineyards. Cathedral; chateau (splendid view +from donjon tower) in the Citadol, entrance i fr.; theatre, Picture +Gallery, &c. + +Hotels.--Grand, De France, De l'Europe, Du Petit Paris, &c. + +Post and Telegraph Office. + +The Chief Excursions are:-- + +La Salanque, the whole day, by carriage _via_ St. Laurent +de la Salanque; Torreilles; Ste. Marie and Villelongue de la Salanque. + +Castell Rossello et Canet.--6 1/4 miles; carriage-road part of +the way. + +PEYREHORADE.--Village in the Landes, and station on the line +between Puyoo (13 miles) and Bayonne (19 miles). + +Inns.--Lafond Des Voyageurs. + +PIERREFITTE.[Footnote: The station is called +Pierrefitte-Nestalas.]--A village situated at the foot of the Pic de +Soulom and the Gorge de Cauterets in the Hautes Pyrenees. Terminus of +the railway line from Lourdes, and starting-point for the diligences to +Cauterets, Luz, St. Sauveur, and Bareges. + +Hotels.--De la Poste, || Des Pyrenees, De France. Living more +moderate than at any of the above-mentioned towns or Argeles. For +further information see Chapter IV. + +PRESTE-LES-BAINS.--A bathing-resort in the Eastern Pyrenees, 19 +miles from Amelie (to which refer in Appendix), and 42-1/2 from +Perpignan, the nearest railway station. + +The Bathing Establishment is supplied by one sulphurous spring +only, partaking of much the same properties as the more celebrated ones +at the larger resorts, being specially beneficial, when drunk, for +lithiasis and catarrh of the bladder. + +Hotel accommodation in the Bathing Establishment. + +Season.--June to October. + +PUYOO.--A village in the Basses-Pyrenees, one mile distant from +the station of same name; junction for Bayonne from the line between +Bordeaux and Pau; from which it is 11-1/2 miles and 32-1/2 miles +distant, respectively. + +Hotels.--Lafont, Voyageurs. + +REBENAC.--A village in the Val de Neez, Basses-Pyrenees, 10 +miles from Pau, and 17-1/2 from Eaux Bonnes on the direct route, +between the two. + +Inn.--Du Perigord. + +SAINT AVENTIN (2805 ft.).--A village in the Haute-Garonne, +2-3/4 miles from Luchon, on the Route Thermale. Known for the chapel of +same name, to which a legend is attached. + +SAINT BEAT.--A village in the Haute-Garonne, 3-1/4 miles from +Marignac, a station on the line between Luchon and Montrejeau, from +which it is 9-1/2 and 13 miles distant respectively. A favourite drive +from Luchon (see Chapter XI. and Luchon in Appendix), road to Viella +_via_ Bosost. + +Inn.--Commerce. + +SAINT BERTRAND DE COMMINGES.--An ancient Roman town in the +Haute-Garonne, 3 miles from Loures station on the Luchon-Montrejeau +line, For information respecting the old cathedral, &c., refer to +Chapter XI. + +Inn.--De Comminges. + +The Grotto de Gargas is in the vicinity. Guides must be hired at St. +Bertrand. + +SAINT CHRISTAU.--A village in the Basses-Pyrenees, 5 miles from +Oloron, from which it is a lovely drive. + +Two Bathing Establishments, fed by four sources, one of which is +calcareous, and the rest of a sulphurous nature. They are useful for +curing wounds, rheumatism, skin diseases, eczema, laryngitis, and +affections of the eyes. + +Hotels.--Poste, Grand Turc, Mogul; also Chalets, and +rooms from 2 to 5 francs per diem. + +There are many pleasant walks in the neighbourhood, and excellent +fishing. + +SAINTE MARIE (pres Bigorre).--A village in the Campan valley, +Hautes-Pyrenees, at the fork of the Route Thermale from Bigorre (see +Chapter II.). It is distant 7-1/2 miles from Bigorre, 17-1/2 from +Bareges by the Col de Tourmalet route, and 36 from Luchon by the Col +d'Aspin. + +SAINTE MARIE (pres Oloron).--A suburb of Oloron, on the opposite +bank of the river Aspe. See Oloron in Appendix. + +SAINTE MARIE (pres St. Laurent).--A small village on a hill in +the Eastern Pyrenees, 2-1/2 miles from St. Laurent de la Salanque, and +7-1/2 from Perpignan. + +SAINTE MARIE (pres Salechan).--A small bathing resort, situated +in a lovely valley in the Hautes-Pyrenees about 1 mile from Salechan +station on the Luchon-Montrejeau line. + +The Bathing Establishment is supplied by four cold springs, +containing sulphate of lime principally, but also small quantities of +magnesia and soda. The water is heated for bathing purposes, but drunk +in its natural state. It is tonic in its action, but diuretic and +purgative as well, and is used efficaciously in liver complaints, +dyspepsia, neuralgia, and nervous irritability. Hotel accommodation +in the Bathing Establishment and Apartments in the houses near it. + +SAINT JEAN DE LUZ.--A watering-place on the Bay of Biscay, in +the Basses-Pyrenees, 8 miles from Biarritz, which it is very anxious to +outrival. It is well protected from the winds, but is less free from +dampness in its climate on the same account. It possesses an old church +and several historical buildings, and is one of the favourite drives +from Biarritz. Refer to Chapter XIII. + +Hotels.--De la Poste, De France, D'Angleterre et de la Plage, De +l'Ocean, De Madrid. + +Apartments and Houses furnished in the town. + +Sea-Bathing Establishment, Casino, &c. + +SAINT LAURENT DE LA SALANQUE.--A town in the Eastern Pyrenees, +with a good agricultural and commercial industry, 8-3/4 miles from +Perpignan. + +Hotels.--Got, Garriques. + +SAINT MAMET.--A village in the Haute-Garonne, 3/4 mile from +Luchon (see Chapter X.). The church is interesting. + +SAINT PE.--A village built on an eminence in the Hautes-Pyrenees, +and station on the railway between Pau and Lourdes, 18 miles from +the one and 6-1/4 from the other. + +SAINT PEE-sur-Nivelles.--A village in the Basses-Pyrenees, on +the route between St. Jean de Luz and Cambo--8-3/4 miles from the +former, and 10 miles from the latter. + +SAINT SAUVEUR (2525 ft.).--A bathing and mountain resort in the +Hautes-Pyrenees, 7 miles from Pierrefitte--the nearest station--1-1/4 +from Luz, and 5 from Bareges. A most charming place for a spring or +summer residence, being beautifully situated and possessing numerous +pleasant walks in the vicinity. See Chapter VII. + +Two Bathing Establishments, each supplied by one spring, in +which sulphuret of sodium predominates. The water is largely diuretic +in its action, having at the same time a tonic and anti-spasmodic +effect. Its sedative properties are beneficial to the nervous system +generally, and it proves useful in removing the after-effects of long +illnesses, haemorrhages, &c., besides being pleasant to the skin. + +Hotels.--De France, || Des Bains, || Du Parc, Des Princes, De +Paris. + +Guides (living at Luz).--Martin, Noguez, Fortanet, and Bernard +senior. For lofty summits, such as the Pic d'Ardiden, and for other +excursions, Lons, Pratdessus, and Cramp Brothers. + +Horses may generally be obtained from them, and Carriages +(at Luz) as well. + +Post and Telegraph during the season only, but letters +and telegrams are forwarded from Luz at other times, there being one +delivery and one collection of the former daily. + +Chief Excursions:-- + +To Bareges.--10 to 15 frs. landau; 2 frs. pourboire. See Chapter +VI. + +To Sazos and Grust.--See Chapter VII. + +To Gavarnie.--Landau and four horses, 15 to 25 frs.; pourboire, +3 frs. Horses and guide to the Cirque, each 2 frs. from Gavarnie. See +Chapter VIII. + +The Pic de Bergons.--4 frs. each horse, guide 5 frs. out of +season, 6 frs. each in season. Refer to Chapter VII. + +The Pic de Viscos.--7 hours up and down. Guide 10 frs., horse 8 +frs. Via Grust; a pleasant excursion. + +Pic de Nere.--8 hours there and back. Horse 10 frs., guide 12 +frs. Horse-track three-quarters of the way; an easy and pleasant climb. + +Pic d'Ardiden.--8-1/2 hours up and down. Guide necessary. A fine +but difficult climb. + +SAINT SAVIN.--A very ancient village in the Argeles valley, in +the Hautes-Pyrenees; fully described in Chapter IV. + +SAINT SEBASTIEN.--A town in the north of Spain, on the shores of +the Biscay, 163-1/2 miles from Bordeaux, 35 from Biarritz, and 19 from +Hendaye (the French frontier town). Possessing a fine citadel, +bull-ring, beach, and bathing establishment, and two fine churches. See +Chapter XIII. + +Hotels.--De Londres, || De Escurra, Anglais, De Arrese, De +Berdejo, &c. + +SALECHAN.--A village in the Garonne valley, in the Hautes-Pyrenees, +and station on the Montrejeau-Luchon line for Ste. Marie (baths) +and Siradan (baths). + +SALIES.--A town on the river of same name, in the Basses-Pyrenees, +10 miles from Orthez, the nearest station. + +It is celebrated for its salt springs; and Bayonne hams are said to owe +their fine (?) flavour to the use of the salt produced from them. + +Hotels.--Du Cheval Blanc, De France, De Paris. + +SAZOS.--A small village near St. Sauveur, in the Hautes-Pyrenees, +below the hamlet of Grust. For description of church, &c., refer +to Chapter VII. + +SIRADAN.--A small bathing resort in the valley of same name, in +the Hautes-Pyrenees, with a bathing establishment and hotel in one +building, 2 miles from Salechan station on the Luchon-Montrejeau line. +The springs contain sulphuret of lime and bicarbonate of iron. They +have a similar effect to those of Ste. Marie (1 mile distant), but tend +to excite more strongly. The water stands bottling well. + +SOULOM.--A small village at the foot of the peak of same name, +in the Hautes-Pyrenees, near Pierrefitte, possessing a curious old +church. See Chapter IV. + +TARBES.--A large town on the Adour, in the Hautes-Pyrenees. +Station on the railway between Pau and Toulouse, and junction for the +Bigorre and Morcenz lines. Cavalry barracks, cathedral, &c. Buffet at +the station. See Chapter III. + +Hotels.--De la Paix, France, Commerce. + +URRUGNE.--A village in the Basses-Pyrenees, 2-1/2 miles from St. +Jean de Luz. + +USTARITZ.--The name of two villages, formerly separate, in the +Basses-Pyrenees, 8-3/4 miles from Bayonne, on the carriage-road thence +_via_ Elizondo to Pampeluna (63 miles). + +VALCABRERE.--A small village in the Haute-Garonne, 2 miles from +Loures station on the Luchon-Montrejeau line, celebrated for the Church +of St. Just, a venerable pile in the vicinity. + +VENASQUE.--A small and prosperous town in Spain, 9 hours from +Luchon (21 miles) by the _Port_ of the same name. There are some +baths similar in their uses to those of Luchon, fed by sulphurous +springs at some distance from the town, and 2-1/2 hours nearer Luchon. + +Excellent accommodation can be obtained at the Casa san Mimi +(Antonio Saora) for travellers. + +VERNET-LES-BAINS (2050 ft.), a bathing resort situated in a +hollow in the Eastern Pyrenees, 7 miles from the nearest railway +station. + +There are several springs which supply the large Bathing +Establishment and the smaller Thermes Mercader. The water is +largely charged with sulphate of lime, and possesses properties similar +to other waters of that type. It is especially useful in affections of +the air-passages and skin complaints, and is more or less exciting +according to the springs. The climate is mild, and therefore Vernet has +some reputation as a winter resort, being very little colder than +Amelie (to which refer in Appendix). + +Hotels.--Des Commandants (in the bathing establishment), Du +Parc, Ibrahim Pacha et des Bains, Du Canigou, &c. + +Villas furnished to be let. + +Carriages and Horses. + +Post and Telegraph Office, Theatre, Clubs, &c. + +Guide.--Michael Nou. + +Chief Excursions:-- + +The Canigou (9144 ft.)--11 hours up and down. Guide +recommended, also provisions. Horses 10 frs., guide 10 frs. Horses can +go within a mile of the top, from which the view is splendid. The +ascent is long but not difficult. + +The Fountain des Esquereyres.--_Via_ Castell, 1/2 hour; a +pleasant walk. + +Tour de Goa.--4 hours up and down. An interesting battlemented +tower, with a fine view. + +Vallee de Sahorre.--3 hours there and back; an enjoyable trip. + +Cascade de Cadi.--6 hours there and back; guide recommended. + +The Abbey of Canigou.--2-1/2 hours there and back; guide +unnecessary. An interesting ruin. + +Vieuzac.--A suburb of Argeles, in the Hautes-Pyrenees, +possessing a donjon tower. The station on the line from Lourdes is +called Argeles-Vieuzac. + +Villelongue.--A small village in the Argeles valley, in the +Hautes-Pyrenees, near Pierrefitte. See Chapter IV. + + + + +APPENDIX B + +RAILWAY INFORMATION AND SKELETON ROUTES TO THE CHIEF RESORTS IN THE +PYRENEES. + + +For the ordinary traveller a "Continental Bradshaw" is as useful a +railway guide as any, especially if his knowledge of French is limited, +but the time tables published by Chaix and Cie. are also most excellent +in every way. Of these the best and most expensive is the "Livret-Chaix +Continental," price 2 frs, containing all continental railways and a +complete index. A cheaper time table is the "Indicateur des Chemins de +Fer," published by the same firm, price 1/2 fr., which gives the French +railways only, with map and index. Besides these, all the principal +lines have time tables of their own, price 30 cents. + +It is advisable, when people are travelling as a party, that they +should have their luggage all weighed together, presenting the whole of +the tickets at the same time; this not only frequently saves expense, +but, as the number of persons is marked by the luggage clerk on their +baggage receipt, it is a guarantee that each has bought a ticket, which +saves trouble if one should happen to be lost. + +When people are stopping the night _en route_ at a place, and do +not wish to take their registered luggage to the hotel, only to have to +bring it back for re-registration next day, they have simply to leave +it in the station, and when starting again on the morrow to tell the +porter--when they give him the baggage ticket--that it was left +overnight (for which the charge is 1d. per package), whereupon he will +register it without further trouble. + +If a ticket is taken for the wrong station (by mistake) and the luggage +is accordingly registered wrongly too, the passenger must represent the +same to the station-master and ask him to allow a change to be made; if +there is not time to do this the luggage clerk may take the +responsibility--if the urgency of the case is made _argentiferously_ +clear--but the plan is not recommended. _It is important +to know_ that if a traveller misses his train he _must present_ +his _ticket_ at the ticket office to be _restamped_ in order +to make it again available--otherwise it is liable to be forfeited. + +Travellers will also save themselves much trouble by settling which +hotel they intend to go to, before arriving at their destination; and +it must be fully understood that for the carrying of small parcels +taken into the carriage, the aid of porters can _never_ be counted +on. See Chapter XI. + +Luggage not exceeding 30 kilogrammes (_i.e._ 66 lbs. Eng.) is +carried free; 1d. being charged for the registration thereof. + + * * * * * + +_Routes from London to Paris._ + +_Route_ 1.--_Via_ Dover, Calais, Montreuil, Abbeville, Amiens, +Claremont, and Creil: the quickest route. + +_Route_ 2.--_Via_ Folkestone, Boulogne, Montreuil, &c. as above. + +_Route_ 3.--_Via_ Newhaven, Dieppe, Rouen, Gaillon, Mantes, and +Poissy: the least expensive route. + +_From Liverpool to Bordeaux._ + +_Route_ 4.--Per Pacific Steam Navigation Co.'s steamers, fortnightly, +sailing on Wednesdays; average passage 2-1/2 days. + +_From London to Bordeaux._ + +_Route_. 5.--Per General Steam Navigation Co.'s steamers, average +passage 3 to 4 days. + +_Route_ 6.--_Via_ Weymouth, Cherbourg, Caen, Alencon, Le Mans, +Tours and Angouleme. _From Paris to Bordeaux._ + +_Route_ 7.--_Via_ Orleans, Blois, St. Pierre les Corps (for +Tours), Poitiers, Angouleme, and Libourne. + +_From Paris to Bagneres de Bigorre._ + +_Route_ 8.--_Via_ Orleans, Nexon, Perigueux, Les Eyzies, Libos, Agen, +Lectoure, Auch, Mirande, and Tarbes: the most direct route from +Paris to the Pyrenees. + +_From Paris to Toulouse._ + +_Route_ 9.--_Via_ Issoudun, Argenton, Limoges, Nexon, Brives, +Rocamadour, Assier, Figeac, Villefranche, and Tessonieres: the quickest +and best route for the Pyrenees Orientales, and resorts of Vernet, +Amelie, &c. + +_From Bordeaux to Arcachon_. + +_Route_ 10.--_Via_ Gazinet, Facture, Lamothe, and La Teste. + +_From Bordeaux to Bagneres de Bigorre_. + +_Route_ 11.--_Via_ Morcenx, Arjuzaux, Arengosse, Mont de Marsan, +Aire, Vic-Bigorre, Tarbes, Salles, Adour, and Montgaillard: a +longer route from Paris, by a few miles only, than Route 8. + + +_From Bordeaux to Biarritz_. + +_Route_ 12.--_Via_ Ychoux, Morcenx, Dax, Saint Geours, and +Bayonne. + +_From Bordeaux to Pau_. + +_Route 13_.--_Via_ Ychoux, Morcenx, Dax, Puyoo, Orthez, Lacq, +and Lescar. + +_From Pau to Eaux Bonnes and Eux Chaudes_. _Route_ 14.--By +carriage _via_ Gan, Louvie-Juzon, and Laruns. + +_Route_ 15.--By rail _via_ Gan and Laruns, [Footnote: This +railway was to be opened this year (1883).] and carriage from Laruns. + +_From Pau to Lourdes_. + +_Route_ 16.--_Via_ Coarraze-Nay, Montaut-Betharram, and St. +Pe. + +_From Pau to Oloron_. + +_Route_ 17.--_Via_ Gan and Belair. + +_From Lourdes to Argeles_. + +_Route_ 18.--_Via_ Soum, Lugagnan, and Boo-Silhen. + +_From Lourdes to Pierrefitte_. + +_Route_ 19.--_Via_ Soum, Lugagnan, Boo-Silhen and Argeles. + +_From Lourdes to Cauterets, Luz, St. Sauveur, Bareges, and +Gavarnie_. + +_Route_ 20.--By Route 19 to Pierrefitte, thence by diligence or +private carriage to Cauterets. + +_Route_ 21.--By Route 19 to Pierrefitte, thence by diligence or +private carriage to Luz. + +_Route_ 22.--By Route 19 to Pierrefitte, thence by similar +conveyances to St. Sauveur. + +_Route_ 23.--By Route 21 to Luz and continuation to Bareges. + +_Route_ 24.--By Route 22 to St. Sauveur and continuation to +Gavarnie. + +_From Bagneres de Bigorre to Bareges_. + +_Route_ 25.--By carriage _via_ Ste. Marie, Gripp, Tramesaigues, +and the Col de Tourmalet. This route is only open in midsummer. + +_From Bagneres de Bigorre to Bagneres de Luchon_. + +_Route_ 26.--By carriage _via_ Campan, Ste. Marie, Payole, +Col d'Aspin, Arreau, Borderes, Col de Peyresourde, and Garin. +Considered the finest drive in the Pyrenees. + +_Route_ 27.--By rail _via_ Montgaillard, Tarbes, Montrejeau, +Salechan, Marignac, and Luchon. An exceedingly long round. + +_From Bagneres de Luchon to St. Bertrand de Comminges_. + +_Route_ 27.--By carriage _via_ Cier, Marignac, Salechan, +Loures, and Labroquere. + +_Route_ 28.--By train _via_ Marignac and Salechan to Loures, +and carriage thence to St. Bertrand. The rail continues from Loures to +Montrejeau. + +_From St. Bertrand to Montrejeau_. + +_Route_ 29.--By carriage to Loures station, thence by train to +Montrejeau. + +_Route_ 30.--By carriage direct to Montrejeau. + +_From Toulouse to Perpignan_. + +_Route_ 31.--Via Castelnaudary, Carcassone, Narbonne, La Nouvelle, +Salses, and Rivesaltes. + +_From Perpignan to Amelie-les-Bains_. + +_Route_ 32.--By diligence or carriage _via_ Pollestres, Le +Boulou, and Le Pont de Ceret. + +_From Perpignan to Molitg_. + +_Route_ 33.--By rail _via_ Millas, Ille, Bouleternere, and +Vinca, to Prades, thence by diligence or carriage _via_ Catlar to +Molitg. + +_From Perpignan to Vernet_. + +_Route_ 34--Route 33 to Prades and coach to Vernet. + +_Route_ 35--By rail _via_ Prades to Villefranche, and carriage +thence to Vernet. + + + + +APPENDIX C. + +SOME LOCAL PYRENEAN TERMS AND THEIR ENGLISH EQUIVALENTS. + + +_Artigue_, pasturage, prairie. +_Barranque_, a deep hollow or ravine. +_Borde, Bourdette_, farm-house, barn, cot. +_Caire, Quaire, Quairat_, a cone-shaped peak, rocky and bare. +_Canaou_, narrow ravine worn by the snow. +_Cap_, mountain tip. +_Clot_, a valley without exit. +_Colline_, a small valley, a dale. +_Cortal, Courtaou_, sheep-fold, sheep-pen. +_Couila, Couillade_, shepherd's cabin, hut, fertile vale. +_Estibe_, pasturage, feeding-ground. +_Estibere_, a well-pastured mountain. +_Fitte_, pointed summit. +_Montagne_, feeding-ground (on a mountainside). +_Neste_, mountain torrent. +_Orrhy, Orri_, shepherd's hut. +_Oule_, a bowl-shaped valley. +_Pech, Pouey, Puy_, a mountain of no great height, in the Western + Pyrenees; but also applied to loftier summits, in the Eastern range. +_Pene, Pena, Penne_, pointed rock. +_Peyre_, a large crag. +_Piche, Pisse_, a cascade waterfall. +_Pinede, Pinade_, pine forest, site of pine forest. +_Pique_, synonymous with _Fitte_, pointed summit, peak. +_Pla, Plan_, a valley with level meadows. +_Prade, Pradere_, similar to _Estibe_, +feeding-ground, meadow. +_Raillere_, steep decline, avalanche channel. +_Roque_, a mountain, steep and covered with crags. +_Sarrat, Serre, Serrere_, a sharp-toothed crest, backbone of + mountain. +_Sarre_, a small hill. +_Seoube, Scube_, wood, forest. +_Tausse, Truc, Truque, Tuc_, a steep and lofty peak with large + buttresses. + +The _Defiles_ and _Passes_ of the mountains for which the word +_Col_ is generally applied, bear many other names, of which the +following, with their special significations, are the chief:-- + +_Core_, a pass on a side range or small lateral chain. +_Fourgue, Fourquette, Hourque, Hourquette_, generally applied to + passes on the small side ranges. +_Pas_, a pass difficult of approach. +_Port_, a pass in the principal chain. +_Porteil, Portillon, Pourtet_, passes in the principal or side chains. + + + + +APPENDIX D. + +GENERAL INFORMATION, AND TABLES OF METRES, GRAMMES, DEGREES, &c. &c. + + +It would be difficult to speak with _too_ much weight on the +subject of _bread_, especially where invalids are concerned, and +that article in the Pyrenees is essentially _bad_--we might almost +say _unfit for food_. With the exception of Bagneres de +Bigorre--and then only when specially ordered--and _in the +season_, Bagneres de Luchon, the bread throughout the mountain +resorts is abominably sour. Travellers _do_ eat it, because they +have no other, but to invalids it is positively nauseous. In our +opinion it is the only real drawback to enjoying a Pyrenean trip! But +it would be foolish to bring it into such prominence when we have all +along recommended a stay amid these lovely scenes, unless we could +suggest a remedy, and the remedy is as simple as, with us, it proved +complete. There are several bakers in Pau selling bread as good as one +could wish for, and doubtless any of these would be glad to meet the +wishes of travellers; in our case we addressed ourselves to Mr. Otto +Kern, Vienna Bakery, Rue de la Prefecture, Pau, requesting him to +supply us with a certain quantity of bread daily, at whatever place we +might be. We had previously decided on our route on broad lines, so +that a postcard as a rule was sufficient to give notice of a change in +our address; while if a sudden alteration occurred in our plans, a +half-franc telegram told him the news, and _our bread_ never +failed to be at the _right_ place on the _right day_. The +bread sufficient for four people, carriage thereof, and a trifle for +commission (i.e. paper and trouble) cost on an average 2 frs. 50 cents +per diem, which was a little over 80 centimes each. Perhaps in time +hotel-keepers will resort to this method; in fact, we were assured that +it would be so; but in the meantime every traveller is recommended to +do so on his own account; though in all other respects he will find +most of the hotels throughout the mountains very well found. When once +in the Pyrenees, after Pau had been left behind, we found an average +price of 10 frs. per day--perhaps a shade less--was what our hotel +expenses amounted to; including--coffee and milk, bread and butter, +eggs _or_ kidneys _or_ chops for the first breakfast; table +d'hote luncheon and table d'hote dinner, with a good bedroom not higher +than 2nd floor. These prices must be understood as only those of a +spring or autumn tour--_out of the season_--and rather easier than +a traveller would pay at many of the hotels if he arrived without +having previously written and made terms. _We_ invariably wrote, +and at all the hotels marked thus || received every attention, good +rooms, good food, and _dry beds_. + +It is difficult to give a hard-and-fast amount per diem as to +expenditure, as it depends so much on the drives, excursions, &c.; as +above stated 10 frs. per day paid all hotel expenses (including _vin +ordinaire_), and we consider that in the spring, with several +excursions, and "a landau and four" for the principal drives--such as +Bigorre to Luchon, Lourdes to St. Sauveur, St. Sauveur to Gavarnie, &c. +&c.--25 frs. or L1 per day ought to cover the whole daily expense of +each person. In the summer of course 35 frs., or even 40 frs., would be +required for the same period. Horses and carriages are cheap in the +spring, but even then a little judicious bargaining is required, as it +is in nearly every transaction, in the Pyrenees. + +Jam, marmalade, bloater-paste, and small luxuries of that kind, not +excluding _whiskey_, are difficult to obtain, and it is well to +take them all from Pau or Biarritz, wherever the start is made. +Bagneres de Bigorre, chez M. Peltier, is fairly well supplied, but +other resorts know not the sound of their names! It is also worth +knowing that a system of "Parcels Post" is in operation, whereby any +moderate-sized parcel can be dispatched from any station for 85 cents, +and delivered at any place within reach of the railway or diligence; +but it must be understood at the same time that _bread_ will in +like manner be delivered _only_ where the railway or diligence +runs; if travellers therefore go to places where there is no +_official_ communication, they must depute some agent to receive +letters or parcels where the diligence last stops, and then forward +them by special messenger. This can be done of course, but it will +prove costly. + +The rate of postage is 2-1/2d. the 15 grammes (a shade over 1/2 oz.), +and 2-1/2d. for every additional 15 grammes. + +Money orders are issued at all the principal towns to which (see +Appendix A) a post-office belongs. + +Telegrams, 1/2 d = 5 cents, per word, the address being charged for the +same as the rest; but no telegram can cost less than 50 centimes. + +The rate to England is variable; usually 2-1/2 d. per word. + +Money is reckoned at 25 frs. to the L1 English, and banknotes or gold +will be accepted in nearly all hotels, and circular notes as well, at +the larger resorts. + + +TABLE OF LITRES AND PINTS. + +1/2 litre = 7/8 pint. +1 " = 1-3/4 pints. +2 litres = 3-1/2 pints. +4 " = 7 pints. +8 " = 7 quarts. + + +TABLES OF GRAMMES AND OUNCES. + + 29 grammes = 1 oz. + 57 " = 2 oz. + 86 " = 3 oz. + 114 " = 4 oz. = 1/4 lb. + 227 " = 8 oz. = 1/2 lb. + 454 " = 16 oz. = 1 lb. + 908 " = 32 oz. = 2 lbs. +1000 " = 35-1/5 oz. = 2 lbs. 3-1/5 oz. +1 kilogramme = 1000 grammes = 2 lbs. 3-1/5 oz. + + +TABLE OF CENTIMETRES AND INCHES. + +100 centimetres = 1 metre = 39-1/3 inches; 1 centimetre = 2/5 inch +as near as possible. + + 5 centimetres = 2 inches. + 10 " = 4 " + 15 " = 6 " + 20 " = 8 " + 25 " = 10 " + 30 " = 12 " = 1 foot. + 45 " = 18 " = 1-1/2 feet. + 50 " = 20 " = 1 ft. 8 in. + 60 " = 24 " = 2 feet. + 90 " = 36 " = 3 feet. +100 " = 39-1/3 " = 3 ft. 3-1/3 in. + + +TABLE OF METRES AND FEET, FOR DETERMINING THE +HEIGHT OF MOUNTAINS, &c. + +1 metre = 3 ft. 3-1/3 in. as near as possible, without using decimals; +but at this computation 2 inches are lost in every 25 metres, which +however have been duly supplied in the following table, but the +fractions omitted:-- + +Metres. Ft. in. Metres. Ft. in. Metres. Ft. in.. + 1 = 3 3 26 = 85 4 140 = 459 4 + 2 = 6 7 27 = 88 7 150 = 492 2 + 3 = 9 10 28 = 91 10 160 = 524 11 + 4 = 13 1 29 = 95 2 170 = 557 9 + 5 = 16 5 30 = 98 8 175 = 574 3 + 6 = 19 8 35 = 114 10 180 = 590 7 + 7 = 22 11 40 = 131 2 190 = 623 4 + 8 = 26 3 45 = 147 7 200 = 656 3 + 9 = 29 6 50 = 164 1 300 = 984 4 + 10 = 32 9 55 = 180 5 400 = 1,312 6 + 11 = 36 1 60 = 196 10 500 = 1,640 7 + 12 = 39 4 65 = 213 3 600 = 1,968 8 + 13 = 42 7 70 = 229 7 700 = 2,296 9 + 14 = 45 11 75 = 246 1 800 = 2,624 10 + 15 = 49 2 80 = 262 6 900 = 2,953 0 + 16 = 52 5 85 = 278 10 1,000 = 3,281 1 + 17 = 55 9 90 = 295 3 2,000 = 6,562 2 + 18 = 59 0 95 = 311 8 3,000 = 9,843 3 + 19 = 62 3 1OO = 328 2 3,100 = 10,171 5 + 20 = 65 7 105 = 344 6 3,200 = 10,499 6 + 21 = 68 10 110 = 360 11 3,300 = 10,827 7 + 22 = 72 1 115 = 377 4 3,400 = 11,155 8 + 23 = 75 5 120 = 393 8 3,500 = 11,483 9 + 24 = 78 8 125 = 410 2 4,000 = 13,124 4 + 25 = 82 0 130 = 426 6 + + +TABLE OF KILOMETRES AND MILES. + +1 kilometre = 1,000 metres = 1,093 yards = 5/8 mile, as nearly as +possible, without employing decimals; but at this computation the +kilometre gains 11 yards, 40 kilometres gain 1/4 mile, and 160 +kilometres gain 1 mile. This gain has been deducted in the following +table, and all fractions less than 1/4 omitted:-- + +Kilos. Miles. Kilos. Miles. + + 1 = 5/8 19 = 11-3/4 + 2 = 1-1/4 20 = 12-1/4 + 3 = 2 30 = 18-1/2 + 4 = 2-1/2 40 = 24-3/4 + 5 = 3 50 = 31 + 6 = 3-3/4 60 = 37 + 7 = 4-1/4 70 = 43-1/4 + 8 = 5 80 = 55-3/4 + 9 = 5-1/2 100 = 62 + 10 = 6-1/4 120 = 74-1/4 + 11 = 7 160 = 99 + 12 = 7-1/2 200 = 123-3/4 + 13 = 8 300 = 185-1/2 + 14 = 8-3/4 320 = 198 + 15 = 9-1/4 400 = 247-1/2 + 16 = 10 500 = 309-1/4 + 17 = 10-1/2 1,000 = 618-3/4 + 18 = 11-1/4 + + +COMPARISON TABLE OF THE CENTIGRADE AND FAHRENHEIT THERMOMETERS. + +1 deg. Centigrade = 1-4/5 Fahr.; 5 deg. Cent. = 9 deg. Fahr. It must +be understood that, as the freezing-point of Centigrade is Zero and of +Fahrenheit 32 deg., these 32 deg. must be taken into account in all +calculations above freezing-point: thus +5 deg. Cent. are equivalent +to a temperature of 41 deg. Fahr. + + Cent. Fahr. Cent. Fahr. + +Below -15 = +3 17 = 63 +Zero. -10 = +12 18 = 64 + -5 = +21 19 = 65 + 0 = 32 Freezing-point. 20 = 67 + 1 = 34 25 = 76 + 2 = 36 30 = 85 + 3 = 37 35 = 94 + 4 = 39 35-1/2 = 95 Blood heat. + 5 = 41 40 = 103 + 6 = 43 45 = 112 + 7 = 45 50 = 121 + 8 = 47 55 = 130 + 9 = 48 60 = 139 + 10 = 50 65 = 148 + 11 = 52 70 = 156 + 12 = 54 75 = 165 + 13 = 55 80 = 174 + 13-1/2 = 56 Temperate. 85 = 183 + 14 = 57 90 = 192 + 15 = 59 95 = 201 + 16 = 61 100 = 210 Boiling-point. + + + + + +INDEX. + + +A. + +Abbe's song, the, +A dirty avalanche, +A "double stroke" (St. Sauveur), +Adour, basin of, +Allee d'Etigny (Luchon), + de Barcugna, + des Bains, + Verte (Bareges), +Allees de Cambasque, +Amelie-les-Bains, + excursions from, + general information, + hotels at, &c., +Amoy, Valley of Ten Thousand Rocks, +Ancient church of the Templars (Luz), +_Anemone vernalis_, + scarlet, + wood, +A new "diet of worms," +An excited dog-fancier, +An extraordinary detachment, +Anglet, +Appendix A, + B, + C, + D, +Aran, valley of, +Arboust, valley of, +Arcachon, +Arcachon, excursions from, + general information, + hotels at, +Argeles, + drive round valley of, + excursions from, + hotels at, + valley of, +Argeles-sur-Mer, +Arles-sur-Tech, +Arlos, +Arreau, + hotels at and excursions from, +Arrens, + excursions from, + hotels at, +Arrieuze (river), +Arroudet, cascade of, +Artigues-Tellin, +Arudy, +Ascent of the Col de Riou, +Ascent of the Pic de Bergons, +Aspe, valley of, +Aspin, + col of, +Asphodel, +Assat, +Aste, +Atalaya, cape, +Auberge du Lys (Luchon), +Auch, road of, +Aure, valley of, +Avajan, +Avalanche, a dirty, +Avenue de Salut, +Ax, road of, + +B. + +Bagneres de Bigorre to Bagneres de Luchon +Bagneres de Luchon to Bareges +Bagneres de Bigorre +Bagneres de Bigorre, bathing establishment of +Bagneres de Bigorre, excursions from +Bagneres de Bigorre, hotels of +Bagneres de Bigorre, springs of +Bagneres de Luchon to Montrejeau +Bagneres de Luchon to St. Bertrand de Comminges +Bagneres de Luchon +Bagneres de Luchon, baths of +Bagneres de Luchon, casino of +Bagneres de Luchon, excursions from +Bagneres de Luchon, general information +Bagneres de Luchon, hotels at +Ballooning +Barbe de Bouch +Bareges + " bathing establishment of + " excursions from + " hotels of +Barousse, valley of +Basin of Adour + " Echez +Baths of Amelie + " Bareges + " Capvern + " Cesar + " Grand Pre + " Hontalade + " Le Pre + " Luchon + " Luz + " Marie Therese + " Mauhourat + " Molitg + " OEufs + " Panticosa + " Pauze Nouveaux + " " Vieux + " Petit St. Sauveur + " Preste + " Raillere + " Ste. Marie (near Luchon) + " St. Sauveur + " Salut + " Sante + " Siradan + " Vernet +Baudean +Bayonne + " general information + " hotels at +Beaucens, castle of +Bedat +Bee orchids +Behobie +Belesten +Bernadette Soubirons +Betharram + " bridge near +Betpouey (Bareges) +Biarritz + " amusements of + " Cape Atalaya at + " general information + " hotels at + " Port Vieux at +Bidart +Bidassoa +Bielle +Bilheres +Billeres (Pau) +Billeres plains of, + " woods of, +Bious-Artigues, +Bishop's arrival, the, +Bizanos, +Black Forest (Bosost), +Black Prince, +Boo-Silhen, +Bordeaux to Arcachon, +Bordeaux to Bagneres de Bigorre, +Bordeaux to Biarritz, + " to Pau, +Bordeaux, + " hotels at, + " steamers to, + " trains to, +Borderes, +Bosost, + " chapel of St. Antoine at, + " church of, + " Fonda (inn) d'Espana at, +Box plants, +Brada (mountain), +Bread, + " arrival of, +Breche d'Allanz, + " Fausse, + " de Roland, +Broussette, valley of, +Bue, +Bugaret (mountain), + " torrent of, +Burbe, valley of, +Burnished toes, +Butte du Tresor, +Buvette de Minvieille, + +C. + +Cabaliros, the, +Cabanes du Lys, +Cagots, +Cambo, + " hotels at, +Campan, +Canine absurdity, + " feat, a, +Canton, odours of, +Capercailzie, +Capvern, + " baths of, + " hotels at, +Carmelites, church of the (Bigorre), +Carnival time (Pau), +Cascade d'Arroudet, + " de Cerizey, + " du Coeur, + " de Discoo, + " des Eaux Bonnes, + " d'Enfer, + " du Groshetre, + " de Laressec, + " de Lassariou, + " du Lutour, + " du Marbore, + " de Montauban, + " de Pisse-Arros, + " de Rioumaou, + " du Serpent, + " de Sidonie, + " du Valentin, +Casino (Luchon), + " (Pau), + " du Portillon (Luchon), + " de Roulette (Luchon), +Castel-Geloos, +Castel-Mouly, +Castel-Vieilh (or Castelvieil) +Castets, +Catarabe, +Cat-fight, +Cauterets, + " baths of, + " excursions from, + " Fruitiere of, + " Gorge of, + " hotels of, +Cazaril, +Cazaux, +Cecire (Bosost), + " (Superbagneres), +Cemetery, Luz, + " Pau, +Cercle des Etrangers (Bareges), +Cerizey, cascade of, +Chambre d'Amour (inn), +Chamois, +Chandelles du Marbore, +Chaos, the, +Chapelle de Pietad, + " de St. Antoine, + " de St. Exupere, + " de St. Roch, + " de Solferino, +Chateau de Beaucens, + " de Despourrins, + " de Geloz, + " de Miramont, + " de Ste. Marie, +Chester, resemblance to, +Cheval, Madame, +Chinaougue, +Church of Montauban, + " Notre Dame, Arreau, + " Notre Dame, Lourdes, + " Pietat, + " St. Jacques, Pau, + " St. Martin, Pau, + " St. Savin, Argeles, + " St. Vincent, Bigorre, + " Sazos, + " Soulom, +Chute de Lapaca, + " la Pique, +Cier de Luchon, +Cierp, +Cirque de Gavarnie, + " Troumouse, +Clerical sensation, +Coarraze, +Coffre d'Ossau, +Col d'Arbeousse, + " d'Aspin, + " d'Aubiste, + " de Bue + " d'Estom Soubiran, + " de Gourzy, + " de Marie Blanque, + " de Peyresourde, + " de Portillon, + " de Riou, + " de Tortes, + " de Tourmalet, +Columbine (_aquilegia_), +Confirmation at Cauterets, +Coteaux, the (Pau), +Cottin, Madame, +Coumelie (mountain), +Couradilles, the, +Coustous, the, + " music on the, +Cowslips, +Crabe (bridge), +Crabioules, glacier of, +Crere d'Ordincede, +"Crocodile of St. Bertrand," the, +Croix de Manse, + " de Mouguere, +"Cry of the Lourdes Shopkeepers," the, +Cucurlon rock (Biarritz), +Cylindre (du Marbore), + +D. + +Dax, + " baths of, + " hotels at, +Daffodils, +Dangerous footing, +Dear travelling, +Dog-fancier, an excited, +Dragon's-mouth Rock, + +E. + +Eaux Bonnes, 178; + " bathing establishment of, + " cascade of, + " excursions from, +Eaux Bonnes, hotels at, +Eaux Chaudes, + baths at, + excursions from, + grotto of, + hotels at, +Echez, basin of, +Echo, wonderful, +English Church (Bigorre), +Entecade, peak, +Espelette, +Esplanade des Oeufs, +Esquiez, +Esterre, +"Exhortation to the First Snow," + +F. + +Fashion on a donkey, +Fausse Breche (Gavarnie), +Feather moss, +Females, importunate, +Fete de Payole, +Flight of lizards, +Fontaine de Marnieres (Pau) +Fos, +French sportsmen (Pau), +Fuenterabia (_Fr_. Fontarabie), + +G. + +Gabas, +Gabrielle d'Estrelle, +Gan, +Garin, +Garonne, river, + valley of, +Gavarnie, + Cirque of, + hotels of, + Port de, +Gave d'Azun, +Gave de Bareges, +Gave de Bastan, + Cauterets, + Gavarnie, + Heas, + Lutour, + Marcadau, + d'Ossau, + de Pau, +Gazost-les-Bains, +Gedre, + excursions from, + grotto of, +Geloos, Castel +Gelos, +General information, Appendix D, +Gentians, +Gerde, +Geruzet's marble works, +Ges, +Glacier de Crabioules, +Gorge de Bacheviron, + Cauterets, + du Hourat, +Gouffre d'Enfer, +Granges de Gouron, +Grange de la Reine Hortense, +Gripp, +Grocer's opinion, the (Cauterets), +Grotto of Eaux Chaudes, + Gedre, + Lourdes, + the Neez, +Grust (St. Sauveur), +Guetary, +"Guide's Auction," the, + +H. + +Heas, + inn, &c., + valley of, +Hendaye, +Hepaticas, +Hermitage of St. Peter (St. Sauveur), +Herrere, stream, +Hospice Civil (Bigorre) + " de France (Luchon) + " de Ste. Eugenie (Bareges) +Hotel d'Angleterre, Argeles + " Baudot, Eaux Chaudes + " Beau Sejour (Bigorre) + " Canton, Luchon + " de Comminges + " d'Espana, Bosost + " de France, Argeles + " " Arreau + " " Eaux Bonnes + " " St. Sauveur + " du Parc, Cauterets + " de Paris, Biarritz + " de la Poste, Payole + " " Pierrefitte + " des Pyrenees, Lourdes + " " Louvie-Juzon + " de l'Univers, Luz + " des Voyageurs, Gavarnie +Houn Blanquo +Hourat, Gorge de +Hungry guardian, a +Hyacinths + +I. + +"Idyllic Colbert" (Pau) +Importunate females +Irun +Itsatsou +Izeste + +J. + +Jaca, a +"Jackdaw's Causerie" +Jardin a l'Anglaise (St. Sauveur) + " Darralde + " des Quinconces +"Jay of Bareges," the +"Jeannette's Lamb," +Jonquils +Jurancon + +L. + +Labassere, a + waters of (see Bagneres de Bigorre) +La Brune (Cauterets) +La Casque du Marbore +Lac Bleu + " d'Estibaoute + " d'Estom + " d'Estom Soubiran + " de Gaube + " Vert +"Lady's Farewell to her Asinine Steed," the +Lagas, fountain of +Lamothe +Lapaca, Chute de +Laressec, cascade of, +Laruns + church of + inns at +Lassariou, cascade of +La Tour du Marbore +Les +Lescar +"Lesson of the Mountains," the +Lime-works (Eaux Bonnes) +_Linaria_ +Liverpool to Bordeaux +Lizards, flight of +Llanberis Pass, resemblance to +London to Bordeaux +London to Paris +Louderville +Lourdes to Argeles + " Bareges + " Cauterets + " Gavarnie + " Luz +Lourdes to Pierrefitte, + St. Sauveur, +Lourdes, + castle of, + chapel of, + church of, + grotto of, + hotels at, + panorama of, +Loures, + inns of, +Louron, valley of, +Louvie-la-Haute, +Louvie-Juzon, +Louvie-Soubiron, +Luchon (see Bagneres de Luchon) +Lunch on the Bergons, +Lutour, cascade of, + valley of, +Luz, + hotels at, + baths of, +Lys, valley of, + +M. + +Marble Works, Geruzet's, +Marbore, the, + Cascade du, + Chandelles du, + Epaule du, + La Casque du, + La Tour du, +"March of the Men of Garlic," the, +Marignac, +Marion, Lake, +Marnieres, Fontaine de, +Maucapera, +Mauleon-Barousse, + Licharre, +Mediabat, bridge of, +Menu (Cauterets), + (Payole), +Mill conduits, +Milord, a, +Minvieille, Buvette de, +Molitg, + baths of, &c., + excursions from, + hotels at, +Monne, Bigorre, + Cauterets, + Rouge, +Montagne de Brada, +Mont Arrouye, +Montaigu, Pic de (see Pic) +Montauban, + church of, + cascade of, +Mont Bedat, + Ferrat, +Montgaillard, +Montrejeau, + buffet of, +Mont Segu, Bosost, +Morcenx, +Mouguere (cross of), +Mountain rhododendrons, + violets, +Mouriscot, Lake, +Museum (Luchon), + (Luz), + +N. + +Napoleon's pillar (St. Sauveur), +Narcissus, +Nature's voice, +Nay, +Neez, grotto of the, + stream, + valley of, +Negresse (station), +Nestalas, +Neste (river), +Nethou, Pic de, +New "diet of worms," a, +Nivelle (river), +Noah's ark landscape, a, + +O. + +"Old world and the new," the (Pau), +Oloron, + general information, + hotels at, + roads to, +Oo, +Open-air concert, +Ordincede, Crete d', +Orphanage of Notre Dame du Rocher (Luchon), +Orphanage, church of, +Orpheon, the, +Orthez, +Osmunda regalis (fern), +Ossau, Gave d', + Val d', +Ourous, +"Oxen's Appeal," the, +Oxslips, + +P. + +Paillole (see Payole) +Pagoda Villa, the (Cauterets), +Palais de Justice, Pau, +Palomieres de Gerde, +Panorama of Lourdes, +Panticosa, + hotels at, +Parc Beaumont, Pau, + du Chateau, Pau, +Paris to Bagneres de Bigorre, +Paris to Bordeaux, +Paris to Toulouse, +Pasages, +Pas de l'Echelle, +Pas de l'Escalette, +Pas de Roland, +Pau to Eaux Bonnes and Chaudes, +Pau to Lourdes, +Pau to Oloron, +Pau, I, + amusements at, + castle of, + drives, &c., at, + general information, + history of, + hotels of, +Payole, + en fete, 136 +Peasants and their ways, +Peculiar teams, +Peguere, the, +Pena Blanca, +Pene de l'Heris, +Pene de Montarque, +Perpignan, +Perpignan to Amelie, +Perpignan to Molitg, +Perpignan to Vernet, +Perpignan, + chief excursions from, + hotels at, +Peyrehorade, +Peyresourde, Col de, +Pic d'Antenac, +Pic d'Arbizon, +Pic d'Ardiden, +Pic d'Arrens, +Pic d'Aspe, +Pic d'Astazou, +Pic d'Aubiste, +Pic d'Ayre, +Pic de Bergons, +Pic de Boum, +Pic de Bugaret, +Pic de Campbieil, +Pic de Clarabide, +Pic de Crabioules, +Pic de Gabietou, +Pic de Gabizos, +Pic de Gar, +Pic de Gaube, +Pic de Ger, +Pic de Gourzy, +Pic de Labassa, +Pic du Lac Grand, +Pic de Laruns + de Lienz + de Litouese + de Maladetta + de Maucapera + du Midi d'Arrens (see Pic + d'Arrens) + du Midi de Bigorre + du Midi d'Ossau + du Milieu + de la Mine + de Montaigu (near Bigorre) + de Montaigu (near Saint + Sauveur) + de Neouville + de Nere + de Nethou + Rouge de Pailla + de Pez + de la Pique + de Posets + Poujastou + Sacroux + de Sarradets + de Sauvegarde + de Soulom + de Villelongue + de Viscos +Picnicking (Pau) +Pie de Mars +Pierrefitte; + hotels at, + road to +Pietat +Pilgrims +Pimene, the +Pique, valley of +Pitton de Tournefort +Place Royale, Pau + Ste. Eugenie, Biarritz + "Plaint of the Weather-beaten Pine," +Plateau of the Bious-Artigues +Poc (guide) +_Polygala amara_ +_Polygala rosea_ +Pont d'Arrouge + de Benques + de Crabe + de Desdouroucat + d'Enfer (near Eaux Chaudes) + d'Enfer (near Luz) + d'Espagne + de la Hiladere + de Lestelle + de Nadie + Napoleon + de Pescadere + de Ravi + de Sia + de Villelongue +"Poor Pillicoddy," +Port de Gavarnie + de Peyresourde (see Col de) + de la Picade + de Venasque +Posets, the Peak +Post-office (Luz) +_Potentilla_ +Pragneres +Preste-les-Bains; + baths and hotels of, +_Primula farinosa_ +Promenade Horizontale (Bareges) + de l'Imperatrice +Puyoo +Pyramide de Peyrelance +Pyrenean dogs + prices of + treatment of + local terms translated, + some, + songs + +Q. + +Quairat, Pic +Quatre Moulins de Sia + +R. + +Railway information and skeleton routes to the Pyrenees, +_Ramondia pyrenaica_ +Ravin d'Araille +Rebenac +Red tape +"Riou," +Rioumaou, cascade of +"Roads up again," +Rocks at Biarritz +Rue d'Enfer (Luchon) + " de la Fontaine (Pau) + +S. + +Saint Antoine, chapel of Aventin + " Beat + " Bernard, statue of + " Bertrand de Comminges to Montrejeau + " Bertrand de Comminges, + " " " " cathedral of + " " " " cloisters of + " " " " history of +St. Christau, + " " hotels at + " Etienne + Jacques Church (Pau) + " Jean de Luz + " " dogs of + " " general information + " Laurent de la Salanque + " Mamet + " " church of + " Martin's Church (Pau) + " Pe + " Pee + " Peter's statue (Lourdes) + " Pierre +St. Sauveur + " " baths of + " " excursions from + " " hotels at + " Savin + " Vincent's Church (Bigorre) +Ste. Marie (near Bigorre) + " (near Oloron) + " (near St. Laurent) + " (near Salechan) + " baths of +Sakurazawa, memories of +Salies +Salechan +Salluz (Argeles) +Salut, avenue of +San Sebastian + " chief features of, + " hotels at +Sarsaparilla +Sassis (St. Sauveur) +Sazos (St. Sauveur) +_Scabii_ +Sere (Luz) +Serres +Sevignac +Sia + " bridge of + " Quatre Moulins de +Sidonie, cascade of +Silver beeches +Siradan + " valley of +Skeleton routes and railway information +Sketching advice + " with a donkey-cart +Snow +Some Pyrenean local terms translated +Songs, Pyrenean +Soulom +Soulom, Pic de +Soum de Secugnac +Sour grapes (Pau) +Sourde, valley of +Spanish mules and peasants +Sport, French +"Spring's Bitters and Sweets" +Sugar-loaf Mountain (Gavarnie) +Superbagneres + view from +Swine-feeding + +T. + +Tables of centigrade and Fahrenheit thermometers + of centimetres and inches + of grammes and ounces + of kilometres and miles + of litres and pints + of metres and feet +Taillon, the +Tapere (stream) +Tarbes + road +Templars' church at Luz +"The Abbe's Song" +"The Argeles Shepherd's Reply" +The Bishop's arrival +The Chaos +"The Crocodile of St. Bertrand" +The Couradilles +"The Guide's Auction" +"The Jackdaw's Causerie" +"The Jay of Bareges" +"The Lady's Farewell to her Asinine Steed" +"The Lesson of the Mountains" +"The March of the Men of Garlic" +"The Organ's Tale" +"The Oxen's Appeal" +"The Plaint of the Weather-beaten Pine" +"The Three Cormorants" +The "witch of the hills" +"Three Cormorants," the +Torrent of Bugaret +Toulouse to Perpignan + road to +Tour des Lacs (Biarritz) +Tour de la Monnaie (Pau) +Tourmalet, Col de +Trained vines +Tramesaigues +Travellers' troubles +Troumouse, Cirque of +Trous d'Enfer +Tuc de Maupas + +U. + +Urrugne +Ustaritz + +V. + +Valcabrere +Val d'Ossau +Valentin (river) +Vallee d'Aran + d'Arboust + d'Argeles + d'Aspe + d'Aure + de Bareges + de Barousse + de Broussette + de Campan + de Garonne + de Heas + de l'Hospice + de Lesponne + de Lienz + de Louron + de Luchon + history of +Vallee du Lutour + de Luz + du Lys + de Marcadau + du Neez + de la Pique + de Seoube + de Serris + de Siradan + de Sourde (or Soude) +Valley of the Ten Thousand + Rocks (Amoy) +Venasque + Port de +Vernet-les-Bains + baths of + excursions from + hotels at +Via Crucis (Betharram) +Viella (near Bareges) + (near St. Beat) +Vieuzac +Vignemale, Pic de +Villelongue + Pic de +Villenave +Vines trained by the roadside +Violets + +W. + +Washerwomen and their gamps +Wonderful echo +Wood anemones + +Y. + +Yankee tale, a + +Z. + +Zinc mines + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TWIXT FRANCE AND SPAIN*** + + +******* This file should be named 10403.txt or 10403.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/1/0/4/0/10403 + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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