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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14350 ***
+
+Transcriber's Note:
+   The character = preceeding a vowel is used to indicate that the
+   vowel is to be pronounced long.
+   The character ~ preceeding a vowel is used to indicate that the
+   vowel is to be pronounced short.
+   These characters do not occur otherwise.
+
+
+
+
+
+THREE VOYAGES FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A NORTHWEST PASSAGE FROM THE ATLANTIC
+TO THE PACIFIC, AND NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NORTH POLE,
+VOLUME II
+
+by
+
+SIR W. E. PARRY, CAPT. R.N., F.R.S.
+
+In Two Volumes.
+
+1844
+
+New-York:
+Harper & Brothers, 82 Cliff-Street.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+OF
+
+THE SECOND VOLUME.
+
+
+
+
+
+SECOND VOYAGE
+
+CONTINUED.
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+    Departure from Winter Island.--Meet with some Esquimaux travelling
+    to the Northward.--Obstruction and Danger from the Ice and
+    Tides.--Discovery of the Barrow River, and its Fall.--Favourable
+    Passage to the Northward.--Arrival off the Strait of the Fury and
+    Hecla.--Progress opposed by a fixed barrier of Ice.--Communicate
+    with the Natives of Igloolik.--Unsuccessful Attempt to get between
+    the Ice and the Land.--Land upon the Calthorpe Islands.--The Fury
+    drifted by the Ice between two Islands.--Account of a Journey
+    performed in Sledges up an Inlet to the Westward.
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+    A Whale killed.--Other Charts drawn by the Esquimaux.--Account of a
+    Journey to the Narrows of the Strait.--Discovery of the Sea to the
+    Westward.--Total Disruption of the Ice at the Eastern Entrance of
+    the Strait.--Instance of local Attraction on the Compasses.--Sail
+    through the Narrows, and again stopped by fixed Ice.--Account of
+    several Land Journeys and Boat Excursions.--Observations on the
+    Tides.--Continued Obstacles from fixed Ice.
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+    A Journey performed along the South Shore of Cockburn
+    Island.--Confirmation of an Outlet to the Polar Sea.--Partial
+    Disruption of the Old Ice, and formation of New.--Return through
+    the Narrows to the Eastward.--Proceed to examine the Coast to the
+    Northeastward.--Fury's Anchor broken.--Stand over to Igloolik to
+    look for Winter-quarters.--Excursion to the Head of Quilliam
+    Creek.--Ships forced to the Westward by Gales of Wind.--A Canal
+    sawed through the Ice, and the Ships secured in their Winter
+    Station.--Continued Visits of the Esquimaux, and Arrival of some of
+    the Winter Island Tribe.--Proposed Plan of Operations in the ensuing
+    Spring.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+    Preparations for the Winter.--Various Meteorological Phenomena to
+    the close of the year 1822.--Sickness among the
+    Esquimaux.--Meteorological Phenomena to the end of March.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+    Various Journeys to the Esquimaux Stations.--Preparations for the
+    Hecla's Return to England.--Remarkable Halos, &c.--Shooting Parties
+    stationed at Arlagnuk.--Journeys to Quilliam Creek.--Arrival of
+    Esquimaux from the Northward.--Account of a Journey to the Westward
+    for the purpose of reaching the Polar Sea.--The Esquimaux report two
+    Fishing-ships having been Wrecked.--A Journey performed to Cockburn
+    Island.--Discovery of Murray Maxwell Inlet
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+    Extraordinary Disruption of Ice in Quilliam Creek.--Some Appearance
+    of Scurvy among the Seamen and Marines--Discovery of Gifford
+    River.--Commence cutting the Ice outside the Ships to release them
+    from their Winter-quarters.--Considerations respecting the Return of
+    the Expedition to England.--Unfavourable State of the Ice at the
+    Eastern Entrance of the Strait.--Proceed to the Southward.--Ships
+    beset and drifted up Lyon Inlet.--Decease of Mr. George Fife.--Final
+    Release from the Ice, and Arrival in England.--Remarks upon the
+    practicability of a Northwest Passage.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THIRD VOYAGE
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+    Passage to the Whale-fish Islands, and Removal of Stores from the
+    Transport.--Enter the Ice in Baffin's Bay.--Difficulties of
+    Penetrating to the Westward.--Quit the Ice in Baffin's Bay.--Remarks
+    on the Obstructions encountered by the Ships, and on the Severity of
+    the Season.
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+    Enter Sir James Lancaster's Sound.--Land at Cape Warrender.--Meet
+    with young Ice.--Ships beset and carried near the Shore.--Driven
+    back to Navy-board Inlet.--Run to the Westward, and enter Prince
+    Regent's Inlet.--Arrival at Port Bowen.
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+    Winter Arrangements.--Improvements in Warming and Ventilating the
+    Ships.--Masquerades adopted as an Amusement to the
+    Men.--Establishment of Schools.--Astronomical
+    Observations.--Meteorological Phenomena
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+    Re-equipment of the Ships.--Several Journeys undertaken.--Open Water
+    in the Offing.--Commence sawing a Canal to liberate the
+    Ships.--Disruption of the Ice.--Departure from Port Bowen.
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+    Sail over towards the Western Coast of Prince Regent's
+    Inlet.--Stopped by the Ice.--Reach the Shore about Cape
+    Seppings.--Favourable Progress along the Land.--Fresh and repeated
+    Obstructions from Ice.--Both Ships driven on Shore.--Fury seriously
+    damaged.--Unsuccessful Search for a Harbour for heaving her down to
+    repair.
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+    Formation of a Basin for heaving the Fury down.--Landing of the
+    Fury's Stores, and other Preparations.--The Ships secured within the
+    Basin.--Impediments from the Pressure of the Ice.--Fury, hove
+    down.--Securities of the Basin destroyed by a Gale of
+    Wind.--Preparations to tow the Fury out.--Hecla Re-equipped, and
+    obliged to put to Sea.--Fury again driven on Shore.--Rejoin the
+    Fury; and find it necessary finally to abandon her.
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+    Some Remarks upon the Loss of the Fury--And on the Natural History,
+    &c, of the Coast of North Somerset.--Arrive at Neill's
+    Harbour.--Death of John Page.--Leave Neill's Harbour.--Recross the
+    Ice in Baffin's Bay.--Heavy Gales.--Temperature of the Sea.--Arrival
+    in England.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ACCOUNT OF THE ESQUIMAUX
+
+NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NORTH POLE IN BOATS
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+SECOND VOYAGE
+
+FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A
+
+NORTHWEST PASSAGE.
+
+CONTINUED.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+    Departure from Winter Island.--Meet with some Esquimaux travelling
+    to the Northward.--Obstruction and Danger from the Ice and
+    Tides.--Discovery of the Barrow River, and its Fall.--Favourable
+    Passage to the Northward.--Arrival off the Strait of the Fury and
+    Hecla.--Progress opposed by a fixed barrier of Ice.--Communicate
+    with the Natives of Igloolik.--Unsuccessful Attempt to get between
+    the Ice and the Land--Land upon the Calthorpe Islands.--The Fury
+    drifted by the Ice between two Islands.--Account of a Journey
+    performed in Sledges up an Inlet to the westward.
+
+
+
+
+The gale, which had for some time been blowing from the northward,
+veered to the N.W.b.W., and increased in strength on the 1st of July,
+which soon began to produce the effect of drifting the ice off the land.
+At six o'clock on the 2d, the report from the hill being favourable, and
+the wind and weather now also sufficiently so, we moved out of our
+winter's dock, which was, indeed, in part broken to pieces by the swell
+that had lately set into the bay. At seven we made sail, with a fresh
+breeze from W.N.W., and having cleared the rocks at the entrance of the
+bay, ran quickly to the northward and eastward. The ice in the offing
+was of the "hummocky" kind, and drifting rapidly about with the tides,
+leaving us a navigable channel varying in width from two miles to three
+or four hundred yards.
+
+The closeness of the ice again obliging us to make fast on the 3d, we
+soon after perceived a party of people with a sledge upon the land-floe.
+I therefore sent Mr. Bushnan, with some of our men, to meet them and to
+bring them on board, being desirous of ascertaining whereabout,
+according to their geography, we now were. We found the party to
+consist, as we expected, of those who had taken leave of us forty days
+before on their departure to the northward, and who now readily
+accompanied our people to the ships; leaving only Togolat's idiot-boy by
+the sledge, tying him to a dog and the dog to the ice. As soon as they
+came under the bows, they halted in a line, and, according to their
+former promise, gave three cheers, which salutation a few of us on the
+forecastle did not fail to return. As soon as they got on board they
+expressed extreme joy at seeing us again, repeated each of our names
+with great earnestness, and were, indeed, much gratified by this
+unexpected encounter. Ewerat being now mounted on the plank which goes
+across the gunwales of our ships for conning them conveniently among the
+ice, explained, in a very clear and pilot-like manner, that the island
+which we observed to lie off Cape Wilson was that marked by Iligliuk in
+one of her charts, and there called _Awlikteewik_, pronounced by Ewerat
+_Ow-l=itt~ee-week_. On asking how many days' journey it was still to
+Amitioke, they all agreed in saying ten; and back to Winter Island
+_oon=o=oktoot_ (a great many), so that we had good reason to hope we
+were not far from the former place. I may at once remark, however, that
+great caution is requisite in judging of the information these people
+give of the distances from one place to another, as expressed by the
+number of _se=eniks_ (sleeps) or days' journeys, to which, in other
+countries, a definite value is affixed. No two Esquimaux will give the
+same account in this respect, though each is equally desirous of
+furnishing correct information; for, besides their deficiency as
+arithmeticians, which renders the enumeration of ten a labour, and of
+fifteen almost an impossibility to many of them, each individual forms
+his idea of the distance according to the season of the year, and,
+consequently, the mode of travelling in which his own journey has been
+performed. Instances of this kind will be observed in the charts of the
+Esquimaux, in which they not only differ from each other in this
+respect, but the same individual differs from himself at different
+times. It is only, therefore, by a careful comparison of the various
+accounts, and by making allowances for the different circumstances under
+which the journeys have been made, that these apparent inconsistencies
+can be reconciled, and an approximation to the truth obtained.
+
+Many of our officers and men cordially greeted these poor people as old
+acquaintances they were glad to see again, and they were loaded, as
+usual, with numerous presents, of which the only danger to be
+apprehended was lest they should go mad on account of them. The women
+screamed in a convulsive manner at everything they received, and cried
+for five minutes together with the excess of their joy; and to the
+honour of "John Bull" be it recorded, he sent by one of the men as he
+left the ship a piece of sealskin, as a present to _Parree_, being the
+first offering of real gratitude, and without any expectation of return,
+that I had ever received from any of them. I never saw them express more
+surprise than on being assured that we had left Winter Island only a
+single day; a circumstance which might well excite their wonder,
+considering that they had themselves been above forty in reaching our
+present station. They had obtained one reindeer, and had now a large
+seal on their sledge, to which we added a quantity of bread-dust, that
+seemed acceptable enough to them. As our way lay in the same direction
+as theirs, I would gladly have taken their whole establishment on board
+the ships to convey them to Amitioke, but for the uncertain nature of
+this navigation, which might eventually have put it out of my power to
+land them at the precise place of their destination. The ice again
+opening, we were now obliged to dismiss them, after half an hour's
+visit, when, having run to the Hecla's bows to see Captain Lyon and his
+people, they returned to their sledge as fast as their loads of presents
+would allow them.
+
+We continued our progress northward, contending with the flood-tide and
+the drifting masses of ice; and the difficulties of such a navigation
+may be conceived from the following description of what happened to us
+on the 9th.
+
+At half past eight on the morning of the 9th, a considerable space of
+open water being left to the northward of us by the ice that had broken
+off the preceding night, I left the Fury in a boat for the purpose of
+sounding along the shore in that direction, in readiness for moving
+whenever the Hecla should be enabled to rejoin us. I found the soundings
+regular in almost every part, and had just landed to obtain a view from
+an eminence, when I was recalled by a signal from the Fury, appointed to
+inform me of the approach of any ice. On my return, I found the external
+body once more in rapid motion to the southward with the flood-tide, and
+assuming its usual threatening appearance. For an hour or two the Fury
+was continually grazed, and sometimes heeled over by a degree of
+pressure which, under any other circumstances, would not have been
+considered a moderate one, but which the last two or three days'
+navigation had taught us to disregard, when compared with what we had
+reason almost every moment to expect. A little before noon a heavy floe,
+some miles in length, being probably a part of that lately detached from
+the shore, came driving down fast towards us, giving us serious reason
+to apprehend some more fatal catastrophe than any we had yet
+encountered. In a few minutes it came in contact, at the rate of a mile
+and a half an hour, with a point of the land-ice left the preceding
+night by its own separation, breaking it up with a tremendous crash, and
+forcing numberless immense masses, perhaps many tons in weight, to the
+height of fifty or sixty feet, from whence they again rolled down on the
+inner or land side, and were quickly succeeded by a fresh supply. While
+we were obliged to be quiet spectators of this grand but terrific
+sight, being within five or six hundred yards of the point, the danger
+to ourselves was twofold; first, lest the floe should now swing in, and
+serve us much in the same manner; and, secondly, lest its pressure
+should detach the land-ice to which we were secured, and thus set us
+adrift and at the mercy of the tides. Happily, however, neither of these
+occurred, the floe remaining stationary for the rest of the tide, and
+setting off with the ebb which made soon after. In the mean while the
+Hecla had been enabled to get under sail, and was making considerable
+progress towards us, which determined me to move the Fury as soon as
+possible from her present situation into the bight I had sounded in the
+morning, where we made fast in five and a half fathoms alongside some
+very heavy grounded ice, one third of a mile from a point of land lying
+next to the northward of Cape Wilson, and which is low for a short
+distance next the sea. At nine o'clock a large mass of ice fell off the
+land-floe and struck our stern; and a "calf" lying under it, having lost
+its superincumbent weight, rose to the surface with considerable force,
+lifting our rudder violently in its passage, but doing no material
+injury.
+
+On the 12th, observing an opening in the land like a river, I left the
+ship in a boat to examine the soundings of the coast. On approaching the
+opening, we found so strong a current setting out of it as to induce me
+to taste the water, which proved scarcely brackish; and a little closer
+in, perfectly fresh, though the depth was from fourteen to fifteen
+fathoms. As this stream was a sufficient security against any ice coming
+in, I determined to anchor the ships somewhere in its neighbourhood;
+and, having laid down a buoy in twelve fathoms, off the north point of
+the entrance, returned on board, when I found all the boats ahead
+endeavouring to tow the ships in-shore. This could be effected, however,
+only by getting them across the stream of the inlet to the northern
+shore; and here, finding some land-ice, the ships were secured late at
+night, after several hours of extreme labour to the people in the boats.
+
+On the morning of the 13th, the ice being still close in with the land
+just to the northward of us, I determined on examining the supposed
+river in the boats, and, at the same time, to try our luck with the
+seines, as the place appeared a likely one for salmon. Immediately on
+opening the inlet we encountered a rapid current setting outward, and,
+after rowing a mile and a half to the N.W.b.W., the breadth of the
+stream varying from one third of a mile to four or five hundred yards,
+came to some shoal water extending quite across. Landing on the south
+shore and hauling the boats up above high-water mark, we rambled up the
+banks of the stream, which are low next the water, but rise almost
+immediately to the height of about two hundred feet. As we proceeded we
+gradually heard the noise of a fall of water; and being presently
+obliged to strike more inland, as the bank became more precipitous, soon
+obtained a fresh view of the stream running on a much higher level than
+before, and dashing with great impetuosity down two small cataracts.
+Just below this, however, where the river turns almost at a right angle,
+we perceived a much greater spray, as well as a louder sound; and,
+having walked a short distance down the bank, suddenly came upon the
+principal fall, of whose magnificence I am at a loss to give any
+adequate description. At the head of the fall, or where it commences its
+principal descent, the river is contracted to about one hundred and
+fifty feet in breadth, the channel being hollowed out through a solid
+rock of gneiss.
+
+After falling about fifteen feet at angle of 30° with a vertical line,
+the width of the stream is still narrowed to about forty yards, and
+then, as if mustering its whole force previous to its final descent, is
+precipitated, in one vast, continuous sheet of water, almost
+perpendicular for ninety feet more. The dashing of the water from such a
+height produced the usual accompaniment of a cloud of spray broad
+columns of which were constantly forced up like the successive rushes of
+smoke from a vast furnace, and on this, near the top, a vivid _iris_ or
+rainbow was occasionally formed by the bright rays of an unclouded sun.
+The basin that receives the water at the foot of the fall is nearly of a
+circular form, and about four hundred yards in diameter, being rather
+wider than the river immediately below it.
+
+After remaining nearly an hour, fixed, as it were, to the spot by the
+novelty and magnificence of the scene before us, we continued our walk
+upward along the banks; and after passing the two smaller cataracts,
+found the river again increased in width to above two hundred yards,
+winding in the most romantic manner imaginable among the hills, and
+preserving, a smooth and unruffled surface for a distance of three or
+four miles that we traced it to the southwest above the fall. What
+added extremely to the beauty of this picturesque river, which Captain
+Lyon and myself named after our friend Mr. BARROW, Secretary to the
+Admiralty, was the richness of the vegetation on its banks, the
+enlivening brilliancy of a cloudless sky, and the animation given to the
+scene by several reindeer that were grazing beside the stream. Our
+sportsmen were fortunate in obtaining four of these animals; but we had
+no success with the seines, the ground proving altogether too rocky to
+use them with advantage or safety. We returned on board at thirty
+minutes past two P.M., after the most gratifying visit we had ever paid
+to the shore in these regions.
+
+We found on our return that a fresh, southerly breeze, which had been
+blowing for several hours, had driven the ice to some distance from the
+land; so that at four P.M., as soon as the flood-tide had slackened, we
+cast off and made all possible sail to the northward, steering for a
+headland, remarkable for having a patch of land towards the sea, that
+appeared insular in sailing along shore. As we approached this headland,
+which I named after my friend Mr. PENRHYN, the prospect became more and
+more enlivening; for the sea was found to be navigable in a degree very
+seldom experienced in these regions, and, the land trending two or three
+points to the westward of north, gave us reason to hope we should now be
+enabled to take a decided and final turn in that anxiously desired
+direction. As we rounded Cape Penrhyn at seven P.M., we began gradually
+to lose sight of the external body of ice, sailing close along that
+which was still attached in very heavy floes to this part of the coast.
+Both wind and tide being favourable, our progress was rapid, and
+unobstructed, and nothing could exceed the interest and delight with
+which so unusual an event was hailed by us. Before midnight the wind
+came more off the land, and then became light and variable, after which
+it settled in the northwest, with thick weather for several hours.
+
+In the course of this day the walruses became more and more numerous
+every hour, lying in large herds upon the loose pieces of drift-ice; and
+it having fallen calm at one P.M., we despatched our boats to kill some
+for the sake of the oil which they afford. On approaching the ice, our
+people found them huddled close to, and even lying upon, one another, in
+separate droves of from twelve to thirty, the whole number near the
+boats being perhaps about two hundred..Most of them waited quietly to be
+fired at: and even after one or two discharges did not seem to be
+greatly disturbed, but allowed the people to land on the ice near them,
+and, when approached, showed an evident disposition to give battle.
+After they had got into the water, three were struck with harpoons and
+killed from the boats. When first wounded they became quite furious, and
+one, which had been struck from Captain Lyon's boat, made a resolute
+attack upon her and injured several of the planks with its enormous
+tusks. A number of the others came round them, also repeatedly striking
+the wounded animals with their tusks, with the intention either of
+getting them away, or else of joining in the attack upon them. Many of
+these animals had young ones, which, when assaulted, they either took
+between their fore-flippers to carry off, or bore away on their backs.
+Both of those killed by the Fury's boats were females, and the weight of
+the largest was fifteen hundred and two quarters nearly; but it was by
+no means remarkable for the largeness of its dimensions. The peculiar
+barking noise made by the walrus when irritated, may be heard, on a calm
+day, with great distinctness at the distance of two miles at least. We
+found musket-balls the most certain and expeditious way of despatching
+them after they had been once struck with the harpoon, the thickness of
+their skin being such that whale-lances generally bend without
+penetrating it. One of these creatures being accidentally touched by one
+of the oars in Lieutenant Nias's boat, took hold of it between its
+flippers, and, forcibly twisting it out of the man's hand, snapped it in
+two. They produced us very little oil, the blubber being thin and poor
+at this season, but were welcomed in a way that had not been
+anticipated; for some quarters of this "marine beef," as Captain Cook
+has called it, being hung up for steaks, the meat was not only eaten,
+but eagerly sought after on this and every other occasion throughout the
+voyage, by all those among us who could overcome the prejudice arising
+chiefly from the dark colour of the flesh. In no other respect that I
+could ever discover, is the meat of the walrus, when fresh-killed, in
+the slightest degree unpalatable. The heart and liver are indeed
+excellent.
+
+After an unobstructed night's run, during which we met with no ice
+except in some loose "streams," the water became so much shoaler as to
+make it necessary to proceed with greater caution. About this time,
+also, a great deal of high land came in sight to the northward and
+eastward, which, on the first inspection of the Esquimaux charts, we
+took to be the large portion of land called _Ke=iyuk-tar-ruoke_,[001]
+between which and the continent the promised strait lay that was to lead
+us to the westward. So far all was satisfactory; but, after sailing a
+few miles farther, it is impossible to describe our disappointment and
+mortification in perceiving an unbroken sheet of ice extending
+completely across the supposed passage from one land to the other. This
+consisted of a floe so level and continuous, that a single glance was
+sufficient to assure us of the disagreeable fact, that it was the ice
+formed in its present situation during the winter, and still firmly
+attached to the land on every side. It was certain, from its continuous
+appearance for some miles that we ran along its edge, that it had
+suffered no disruption this season, which circumstance involved the
+necessity of our awaiting that operation, which nature seemed scarcely
+yet to have commenced in this neighbourhood, before we could hope to
+sail round the northeastern point of the American continent.
+
+At thirty minutes past nine A.M. we observed several tents on the low
+shore immediately abreast of us, and presently afterward five canoes
+made their appearance at the edge of the land-ice intervening between us
+and the beach. We soon found, by the cautious manner in which the canoes
+approached us, that our Winter Island friends had not yet reached this
+neighbourhood. In a few minutes after we had joined them, however, a few
+presents served to dissipate all their apprehensions, if, indeed, people
+could be said to entertain any who thus fearlessly met us half way; and
+we immediately persuaded them to turn back with us to the shore. Being
+under sail in the boat, with a fresh breeze, we took two of the canoes
+in tow, and dragged them along at a great rate, much to the satisfaction
+of the Esquimaux, who were very assiduous in piloting us to the best
+landing-place upon the ice, where we were met by several of their
+companions and conducted to the tents. Before we had reached the shore,
+however, we had obtained one very interesting piece of information,
+namely, that it was Igloolik on which we were now about to land, and
+that we must therefore have made a very near approach to the strait
+which, as we hoped, was to conduct us once more into the Polar Sea.
+
+We found here two divisions of tents, there being eleven where we
+landed, and five more about half a mile to the northward. By the time we
+reached the tents we were surrounded by a crowd of men, women, and
+children, all carrying some trifling article, which they offered in
+barter, a business they seemed to understand as well, and to need much
+more than their countrymen to the southward. We were, of course, not
+backward in promoting a good understanding by means of such presents as
+we had brought with us, but they seemed to have no idea of our giving
+them anything _gratis_, always offering some trifle in exchange, and
+expressing hesitation and surprise when we declined accepting it. This
+was not to be wondered at among people who scarcely know what a free
+gift is among themselves; but they were not long in getting rid of all
+delicacy or hesitation on this score.
+
+The tents, which varied in size according to the number of occupants,
+consisted of several seal and walrus skins, the former dressed without
+the hair, and the latter with the thick outer coat taken off, and the
+rest shaved thin, so as to allow of the transmission of light through
+it. These were put together in a clumsy and irregular patchwork, forming
+a sort of bag of a shape rather oval than round, and supported near the
+middle by a rude tent-pole composed of several deer's horns or the bones
+of other animals lashed together. At the upper end of this is attached
+another short piece of bone at right angles, for the purpose of
+extending the skins a little at the top, which is generally from six to
+seven feet from the ground. The lower part of the tent-pole rests on a
+large stone, to keep it from sinking into the ground, and, being no way
+secured, is frequently knocked down by persons accidentally coming
+against it, and again replaced upon the stone. The lower borders of the
+skins are held down by stones laid on them outside; and, to keep the
+whole fabric in an erect position, a line of thong is extended from the
+top, on the side where the door is, to a larger stone placed at some
+distance. The door consists merely of two flaps, contrived so as to
+overlap one another, and to be secured by a stone laid upon them at the
+bottom. This entrance faces the south or southeast; and as the wind was
+now blowing fresh from that quarter, and thick snow beginning to fall,
+these habitations did not impress us at first sight with a very
+favourable idea of the comfort and accommodation afforded by them. The
+interior of the tents may be described in few words. On one side of the
+end next the door is the usual stone lamp, resting on rough stones, with
+the _ootkooseek_, or cooking pot, suspended over it; and round this are
+huddled together, in great confusion, the rest of the women's utensils,
+together with great lumps of raw seahorse flesh and blubber, which at
+this season they enjoyed in most disgusting abundance. At the inner end
+of the tent, which is also the broadest, and occupying about one third
+of the whole apartment, their skins are laid as a bed, having under them
+some of the _andromeda tetragona_ when the ground is hard, but in this
+case placed on the bare dry shingle. Comfortless as these simple
+habitations appeared to us in a snowstorm, they are, in general, not
+deficient in warmth as summer residences; and, being easily removed from
+place to place, they are certainly well suited to the wants and habits
+of this wandering people. When a larger habitation than usual is
+required, they contrive, by putting two of these together, to form a
+sort of double tent somewhat resembling a marquee, and supported by two
+poles. The difference between these tents and the one I had seen in Lyon
+Inlet the preceding autumn, struck me as remarkable, these having no
+_wall_ of stones around them, as is usual in many that we have before
+met with, nor do I know their reason for adopting this different mode of
+construction.
+
+Even if it were not the natural and happy disposition of these people to
+be pleased, and to place implicit confidence wherever kind treatment is
+experienced, that confidence would soon have been ensured by our
+knowledge of their friends and relations to the southward, and the
+information which we were enabled to give respecting their late and
+intended movements. This, while it excited in them extreme surprise,
+served also at once to remove all distrust or apprehension, so that we
+soon found ourselves on the best terms imaginable. In return for all
+this interesting information, they gave us the names of the different
+portions of land in sight, many of which being recognised in their
+countrymen's charts, we no longer entertained a doubt of our being near
+the entrance of the strait to which all our hopes were directed. We now
+found also that a point of land in sight, a few miles to the southward
+of the tents, was near that marked _Ping-=it-k~a-l~ik_ on Ewerat's
+chart, and that, therefore, the low shore along which we had been
+constantly sailing the preceding night was certainly a part of the
+continent.
+
+By the time we had distributed most of our presents, and told some long
+stories about Winter Island, to all which they listened with eager
+delight and interest, we found the weather becoming so inclement as to
+determine us to make the best of our way on board, and to take a more
+favourable opportunity of renewing our visit to the Esquimaux. After
+pulling out for an hour and a half, Captain Lyon, who had a boat's crew
+composed of officers, and had, unfortunately, broken one of his oars,
+was under the necessity of returning to the shore. My anxiety lest the
+ships should be ventured too near the shore, from a desire to pick up
+the boats, induced me to persevere an hour longer, when the wind having
+increased to a gale, which prevented our hearing any of the guns, I
+reluctantly bore up for our former landing-place. Captain Lyon and his
+party having quartered themselves at the southern tents, we took up our
+lodgings at the others, to which we were welcomed in the kindest and
+most hospitable manner. That we might incommode the Esquimaux as little
+as possible, we divided into parties of two in each tent, though they
+would willingly have accommodated twice that number. Immediately on our
+arrival they offered us dry boots, and it was not long before we were
+entirely "rigged out" in their dresses, which, thoroughly drenched as we
+were by the sea, proved no small comfort to us. With these, and a
+sealskin or two as a blanket, we kept ourselves tolerably warm during a
+most inclement night; and the tents, which but a few hours before we had
+looked upon as the most comfortless habitations imaginable, now afforded
+us a sufficient and most acceptable shelter.
+
+The evening was passed in dealing out our information from the
+southward, and never did any arrival excite more anxious inquiries than
+those we were now obliged to answer. So intimate was the knowledge we
+possessed respecting many of their relationships, that, by the help of a
+memorandum-book in which these had been inserted, I believe we almost at
+times excited a degree of superstitious alarm in their minds. This sort
+of gossip, and incessant chattering and laughing, continued till near
+midnight, when the numerous visitors in our tents began to retire to
+their own and to leave us to our repose. Awaking at four A.M. on the
+17th, I found that the weather had moderated and cleared up, and the
+ships soon after appearing in sight, we called our boat's crew up, and
+sent one of the Esquimaux round to the other tents to inform Captain
+Lyon of our setting out. Several of the natives accompanied us to our
+boat, which they cheerfully helped us to launch, and then went round to
+another part of the beach for their own canoes. A thick fog had come on
+before this time, notwithstanding which, however, we managed to find the
+ships, and got on board by seven o'clock. Five canoes arrived soon
+after, and the wind being now light and variable, we lay-to for an hour
+to repay our kind friends for the hospitable reception they had given
+us. After supplying them abundantly with tin canisters, knives, and
+pieces of iron hoop, we hauled to the northeastward to continue our
+examination of the state of the ice, in hopes of finding that the late
+gale had in this respect done us some service.
+
+Finding that a farther examination of the eastern lands could not at
+present be carried on, without incurring the risk of hampering the ships
+at a time when, for aught that we knew, the ice might be breaking up at
+the entrance of the strait, we stood back to the westward, and, having
+fetched near the middle of Igloolik, were gratified in observing that a
+large "patch" of the fixed ice[002] had broken off and drifted out of
+sight during our absence. At nine A.M. we saw eleven canoes coming off
+from the shore, our distance from the tents being about four miles. We
+now hoisted two of them on board, their owners K=a-k~ee and
+N~u-y=ak-k~a being very well pleased with the expedient, to avoid
+damaging them alongside. Above an hour was occupied in endeavouring to
+gain additional information respecting the land to the westward, and the
+time when we might expect the ice to break up in the strait, after which
+we dismissed them with various useful presents, the atmosphere becoming
+extremely thick with snow, and threatening a repetition of the same
+inclement weather as we had lately experienced.
+
+On the 23d we went on shore to pay another visit to the Esquimaux, who
+came down on the ice in great numbers to receive us, repeatedly stroking
+down the front of their jackets with the palm of the hand as they
+advanced, a custom not before mentioned, as we had some doubt about it
+at Winter Island, and which they soon discontinued here. They also
+frequently called out _tima_, a word which, according to Hearne,
+signifies in the Esquimaux language, "What cheer!" and which Captain
+Franklin heard frequently used on first accosting the natives at the
+mouth of the Coppermine River. It seems to be among these people a
+salutation equivalent to that understood by these travellers, or at
+least some equally civil and friendly one, for nothing could exceed the
+attention which they paid us on landing. Some individual always attached
+himself to each of us immediately on our leaving the boat, pointing out
+the best road, and taking us by the hand or arm to help us over the
+streams of water or fissures in the ice, and attending us wherever we
+went during our stay on shore. The day proving extremely fine and
+pleasant, everything assumed a different appearance from that at our
+former visit, and we passed some hours on shore very agreeably. About
+half a mile inland of the tents, and situated upon the rising ground
+beyond the swamps and ponds before mentioned, we found the ruins of
+several winter habitations, which, upon land so low as Igloolik, formed
+very conspicuous objects at the distance of several miles to seaward.
+These were of the same circular and dome-like form as the snow-huts, but
+built with much more durable materials, the lower part or foundation
+being of stones, and the rest of the various bones of the whale and
+walrus, gradually inclining inward and meeting at the top. The crevices,
+as well as the whole of the outside, were then covered with turf, which,
+with the additional coating of snow in the winter, serves to exclude the
+cold air very effectually. The entrance is towards the south, and
+consists of a passage ten feet long, and not more than two in height and
+breadth, built of flat slabs of stone, having the same external covering
+as that of the huts. The beds are raised by stones two feet from the
+ground, and occupy about one third of the apartment at the inner end;
+and the windows and a part of the roofs had been taken away for the
+convenience of removing their furniture in the spring. It was a natural
+inference, from the nature of these habitations, that these people, or
+at least a portion of them, were constant residents on this spot, which,
+indeed, seemed admirably calculated to afford in luxurious profusion all
+that constitutes Esquimaux felicity. This, however, did not afterward
+prove to be absolutely the case; for though Igloolik (as perhaps the
+name may imply) is certainly one of their principal and favourite
+rendezvous, yet we subsequently found the inland entirely deserted by
+them at the same season.
+
+In every direction around the huts were lying innumerable bones of
+walruses and seals, together with sculls of dogs, bears, and foxes, on
+many of which a part of the putrid flesh still remaining sent forth the
+most offensive effluvia. We were not a little surprised to find also a
+number of human sculls lying about among the rest, within a few yards of
+the huts; and were somewhat inclined to be out of humour on this account
+with our new friends, who not only treated the matter with the utmost
+indifference, but, on observing that we were inclined to add some of
+them to our collections, went eagerly about to look for them, and
+tumbled, perhaps, the craniums of some of their own relations into our
+bag, without delicacy or remorse. In various other parts of the island
+we soon after met with similar relics no better disposed of; but we had
+yet to learn how little pains these people take to place their dead out
+of the reach of hungry bears or anatomical collectors.
+
+The account we gave of our visit to the shore naturally exciting the
+curiosity and interest of those who had not yet landed, and the ice
+remaining unchanged on the 24th, a couple of boats were despatched from
+each ship, with a large party of the officers and men, while the ships
+stood off and on. On the return of the boats in the evening, I found
+from Lieutenant Reid that a new family of the natives had arrived to-day
+from the main land, bringing with them a quantity of fine salmon and
+venison, of which some very acceptable samples were procured for both
+ships. Being desirous of following up so agreeable a kind of barter, I
+went on shore the next morning for that purpose, but could only procure
+a very small quantity of fish from the tent of the new-comer, a
+middle-aged, noisy, but remarkably intelligent and energetic man named
+_T=o=ol~em~ak_. After some conversation, we found from this man
+that, in order to obtain a fresh supply of fish, three days would be
+required; this prevented my putting in execution a plan of going out to
+the place where the fish were caught, which we at first understood to be
+near at hand. We therefore employed all our eloquence in endeavouring to
+procure a supply of this kind by means of the Esquimaux themselves, in
+which we at length so far succeeded, that Toolemak promised, for certain
+valuable considerations of wood and iron, to set out on this errand the
+following day.
+
+Shortly, after I returned on board Captain Lyon made the signal "to
+communicate with me," for the purpose of offering his services to
+accompany our fisherman on his proposed journey, attended by one of the
+Hecla's men; to which, in the present unfavourable state of the ice, I
+gladly consented, as the most likely means of procuring information of
+interest during this our unavoidable detention. Being equipped with a
+small tent, blankets, and four days' provision, Captain Lyon left us at
+ten P.M., when I made sail to re-examine the margin of the ice.
+
+It blew fresh from the eastward during the night of the 28th, with
+continued rain, all which we considered favourable for dissolving and
+dislodging the ice, though very comfortless for Captain Lyon on his
+excursion. The weather at length clearing up in the afternoon, I
+determined on beating to the eastward, to see if any more of the land in
+that direction could be made out than the unfavourable position of the
+ice would permit at our last visit. The Fury then made sail and stood to
+the eastward, encountering the usual strength of tide off the southwest
+point of Tangle Island, and soon after a great quantity of heavy
+drift-ice, apparently not long detached from some land.
+
+I determined to avoid, if possible, the entanglement of the Fury among
+the ice, which now surrounded her on every side, and to stand back to
+Igloolik, to hear what information Captain Lyon's journey might have
+procured for us.
+
+At the distance of one third of a mile from Tangle Island, where we
+immediately gained the open sea beyond, we observed the Hecla standing
+towards us, and rejoined her at a quarter before eleven, when Captain
+Lyon came on board to communicate the result of his late journey, of
+which he furnished me with the following account, accompanied by a
+sketch of the lands he had seen, as far as the extremely unfavourable
+state of the weather would permit.
+
+
+    "Accompanied by George Dunn, I found Toolemak on landing, who
+    welcomed us to his tent, in which for two hours it was scarcely
+    possible to move, in consequence of the crowd who came to gaze at
+    us. A new deerskin was spread for me, and Dunn having found a corner
+    for himself, we all lay down to sleep, not, however, until our host,
+    his wife, their little son, and a dog, had turned in beside me,
+    under cover of a fine warm skin, all naked except the lady, who,
+    with the decorum natural to her sex, kept on a part of her clothes.
+    At ten A.M. we started, and found the sledge on a beach near the
+    southern ice. Four men were to accompany us on this vehicle, and the
+    good-natured fellows volunteered to carry our luggage. A second
+    sledge was under the charge of three boys who had eight dogs, while
+    our team consisted of eleven. The weather was so thick that at times
+    we could not see a quarter of a mile before us, but yet went rapidly
+    forward to the W.N.W., when, after about six hours, we came to a
+    high, bold land, and a great number of islands of reddish granite,
+    wild and barren in the extreme. We here found the ice in a very
+    decayed state, and in many places the holes and fissures were
+    difficult if not dangerous to pass. At the expiration of eight
+    hours, our impediments in this respect had increased to such a
+    degree as to stop our farther progress. Dunn, the old man, and
+    myself therefore walked over a small island, beyond which we saw a
+    sheet of water, which precluded any farther advance otherwise than
+    by boats.
+
+    "In the hope that the morning would prove more favourable for our
+    seeing the land, the only advantage now to be derived from our
+    visit, since the fishing place was not attainable, it was decided to
+    pass the night on one of the rocky islands. The Esquimaux having
+    brought no provisions with them, I distributed our four days'
+    allowance of meat in equal proportions to the whole party, who
+    afterward lay down to sleep on the rocks, having merely a piece of
+    skin to keep the rain from their faces. In this comfortless state
+    they remained very quietly for eight hours. Our little hunting-tent
+    just held Dunn and myself, although not in a very convenient manner;
+    but it answered the purpose of keeping us dry, except from a stream
+    of water that ran under us all night.
+
+    "The morning of the 27th was rather fine for a short time, and we
+    saw above thirty islands, which I named COXE'S GROUP, varying in
+    size from one hundred yards to a mile or more in length. Two deer
+    were observed on the northern land, which was called _Khead-Laghioo_
+    by the Esquimaux, and Toolemak accompanied Dunn in chase of them. On
+    crossing to bring over our game, we found the old Esquimaux had
+    skinned and broken up the deer after his own manner, and my
+    companions being without food, I divided it into shares.
+
+    "Arriving on the ice, a skin was taken from the sledge as a seat,
+    and we all squatted down to a repast which was quite new to me. In
+    ten minutes the natives had picked the deer's bones so clean that
+    even the hungry dogs disdained to gnaw them a second time. Dunn and
+    myself made our breakfast on a choice slice cut from the spine, and
+    found it so good, the windpipe in particular, that at dinner-time we
+    preferred the same food to our share of the preserved meat which we
+    had saved from the preceding night.
+
+    "As we sat I observed the moschetoes to be very numerous, but they
+    were lying in a half torpid state on the ice, and incapable of
+    molesting us. Soon after noon we set forward on our return, and,
+    without seeing any object but the flat and decaying ice, passed from
+    land to land with our former celerity, dashing through large pools
+    of water much oftener than was altogether agreeable to men who had
+    not been dry for above thirty hours, or warm for a still longer
+    period. Our eleven dogs were large, fine-looking animals, and an old
+    one of peculiar sagacity was placed at their head by having a longer
+    trace, so as to lead them over the safest and driest places, for
+    these animals have a great dread of water. The leader was instant in
+    obeying the voice of the driver, who did not beat, but repeatedly
+    talked and called it by name. It was beautiful to observe the
+    sledges racing to the same object, the dogs and men in full cry, and
+    the vehicles splashing through the water with the velocity of rival
+    stage-coaches.
+
+    "We were joyfully welcomed to the dwelling of Ooyarra, whose guest I
+    was now to become, and the place of honour, the deerskin seat, was
+    cleared for my reception. His two wives, _K~ai-m=o=o-khi~ak_
+    and _Aw~a-r=un-n~i_ occupied one end, for it was a double
+    tent; while at the opposite extremity the parents of the senior wife
+    were established. The old mother N=ow-k~it-y~oo assisted the
+    young woman in pulling off our wet clothes and boots, which latter
+    being of native manufacture, she new-soled and mended without any
+    request on our side, considering us as a part of the family. Dunn
+    slept in the little tent to watch our goods, and I had a small
+    portion of Ooyarra's screened off for me by a seal's skin. My host
+    and his wives having retired to another tent, and my visitors taking
+    compassion on me, I went comfortably to sleep; but at midnight was
+    awakened by a feeling of great warmth, and, to my surprise, found
+    myself covered by a large deerskin, under which lay my friend, his
+    two wives, and their favourite puppy, all fast asleep and stark
+    naked. Supposing this was all according to rule, I left them to
+    repose in peace, and resigned myself to sleep.
+
+    "On rising, Dunn and I washed with soap in a pond, which caused
+    great speculations among the by-standers, on some of whom we
+    afterward performed miracles in the cleansing way. A large
+    assemblage being collected to hear me talk of Ney-uning-Eitua, or
+    Winter Island, and to see us eat, the women volunteered to cook for
+    us; and, as we preferred a fire in the open air to their lamps, the
+    good-natured creatures sat an hour in the rain to stew some venison
+    which we had saved from our shares of the deer. The fires in summer,
+    when in the open air, are generally made of bones previously well
+    rubbed with blubber, and the female who attends the cooking chews a
+    large piece, from which, as she extracts the oil, she spirts it on
+    the flame.
+
+    "After noon, as I lay half asleep, a man came, and, taking me by the
+    hand, desired Dunn to follow. He led to a tent, which, from the
+    stillness within, I conjectured was untenanted. Several men stood
+    near the door, and, on entering, I found eighteen women assembled
+    and seated in regular order, with the seniors in front. In the
+    centre, near the tent-pole, stood two men, who, when I was seated on
+    a large stone, walked slowly round, and one began dancing in the
+    usual manner, to the favourite tune of 'Amna aya.' The second
+    person, as I soon found, was the dancer's assistant; and, when the
+    principal had pretty well exhausted himself, he walked gravely up
+    to him, and, taking his head between his hands, performed a ceremony
+    called _K=o=on~ik_, which is rubbing noses, to the great
+    amusement and amid the plaudits of the whole company. After this, as
+    if much refreshed, he resumed his performance, occasionally,
+    however, taking a koonik to enliven himself and the spectators. The
+    rub-_bee_, if I may be excused the expression, was at length brought
+    forward and put in the place of the first dancer, who rushed out of
+    the tent to cool himself. In this manner five or six couples
+    exhibited alternately, obtaining more or less applause, according to
+    the oddity of their grimaces. At length a witty fellow, in
+    consequence of some whispering and tittering among the ladies,
+    advanced and gave me the koonik, which challenge I Was obliged to
+    answer by standing up to dance, and my nose was in its turn most
+    severely rubbed, to the great delight of all present.
+
+    "Having been as patient as could be wished for above an hour, and
+    being quite overpowered by the heat of the crowded tent, I made a
+    hasty retreat, after having distributed needles to all the females,
+    and exacting kooniks from all the prettiest in return. A general
+    outcry was now made for Dunn, a most quiet North countryman, to
+    exhibit also; but he, having seen the liberties which had been taken
+    with my nose, very prudently made his retreat, anticipating what
+    would be his fate if he remained.
+
+    "During a short, interval of fine weather, we hung out our clothes
+    to dry, and the contents of our knapsacks, instruments, knives, and
+    beads were strewed on the ground, while we went inland to shoot a
+    few ducks. We cautioned no one against thieving, and were so much at
+    their mercy that everything might have been taken without a
+    possibility of detection; yet not a single article was found to have
+    been removed from its place at our return. At night I was attended
+    by the same bedfellows as before; the young puppy, however, being
+    now better acquainted, took up his quarters in my blanket-bag, as
+    from thence he could the more easily reach a quantity of
+    walrus-flesh which lay near my head; and I was awakened more than
+    once by finding him gnawing a lump by my side.
+
+    "On the morning of the 29th I was really glad to find that the ships
+    were not yet in sight, as I should be enabled to pass another day
+    among the hospitable natives. While making my rounds I met several
+    others, who were also visiting, and who each invited me to call at
+    his tent in its turn. Wherever I entered, the master rose and
+    resigned his seat next his wife or wives, and stood before me or
+    squatted on a stone near the door. I was then told to 'speak!' or,
+    in fact, to give a history of all I knew of the distant tribe,
+    which, from constant repetition, I could now manage pretty well. In
+    one tent I found a man mending his paddle, which was ingeniously
+    made of various little scraps of wood, ivory, and bone, lashed
+    together. He put it into my hands to repair, taking it for granted
+    that a Kabloona would succeed much better than himself. An hour
+    afterward the poor fellow came and took me by the hand to his tent,
+    where I found a large pot of walrus-flesh evidently cooked for me.
+    His wife licked a piece and offered it, but, on his saying something
+    to her, took out another, and, having pared off the outside, gave
+    me the clean part, which, had it been carrion, I would not have hurt
+    these poor creatures by refusing. The men showed me some curious
+    puzzles with knots on their fingers, and I did what I could in
+    return. The little girls were very expert in a singular but dirty
+    amusement, which consisted in drawing a piece of sinew up their
+    nostrils and producing the end out of their mouths. The elder people
+    were, for the most part, in chase of the tormentors, which swarmed
+    in their head and clothes; and I saw, for the first time, an
+    ingenious contrivance for detaching them from the back, or such
+    parts of the body as the hands could not reach. This was the rib of
+    a seal, having a bunch of the whitest of a deer's hair attached to
+    one end of it, and on this rubbing the places which require it, the
+    little animals stick to it; from their colour they are easily
+    detected, and, of course, consigned to the mouths of the hunters.
+
+    "The weather clearing in the afternoon, one ship was seen in the
+    distance, which diffused a general joy among the people, who ran
+    about screaming and dancing with delight. While lounging along the
+    beach, and waiting the arrival of the ship, I proposed a game at
+    'leap frog,' which was quite new to the natives, and in learning
+    which some terrible falls were made. Even the women with the
+    children at their backs would not be outdone by the men, and they
+    formed a grotesque party of opposition jumpers. Tired with a long
+    exhibition, I retreated to the tent, but was allowed a very short
+    repose, as I was soon informed that the people from the farthest
+    tents were come to see my performance, and, on going out, I found
+    five men stationed at proper distances with their heads down for me
+    to go over them, which I did amid loud cries of _koyenna_ (thanks).
+
+    "As the ship drew near in the evening, I perceived her to be the
+    Hecla, but, not expecting a boat so late, lay down to sleep. I soon
+    found my mistake, for a large party came drumming on the side of the
+    tent, and crying out that a 'little ship' was coming, and, in fact,
+    I found the boat nearly on shore. Ooyarra's senior wife now
+    anxiously begged to tattoo a little figure on my arm, which she had
+    no sooner done than the youngest insisted on making the same mark;
+    and while all around were running about and screaming in the
+    greatest confusion, these two poor creatures sat quietly down to
+    embellish me. When the boat landed, a general rush was made for the
+    privilege of carrying our things down to it. Awarunni, who owned the
+    little dog which slept with me, ran and threw him as a present into
+    the boat; when, after a general koonik, we pushed off, fully
+    sensible of the kind hospitality we had received. Toolemak and
+    Ooyarra came on board in my boat, in order to pass the night and
+    receive presents, and we left the beach under three hearty cheers."
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+
+     A Whale killed.--Other Charts drawn by the Esquimaux.--Account of a
+     Journey to the Narrows of the Strait.--Discovery of the Sea to the
+     Westward.--Total Disruption of the Ice at the Eastern Entrance of
+     the Strait.--Instance of local Attraction on the Compasses.--Sail
+     through the Narrows, and again stopped by fixed Ice.--Account of
+     several Land Journeys and Boat Excursions.--Observations on the
+     Tides.--Continued Obstacles from fixed Ice.
+
+
+
+_Aug._ 1.--The information obtained by Captain Lyon on his late journey
+with the Esquimaux served very strongly to confirm all that had before
+been understood from those people respecting the existence of the
+desired passage to the westward in this neighbourhood, though the
+impossibility of Captain Lyon's proceeding farther in that direction,
+combined with our imperfect knowledge of the language, still left us in
+some doubt as to the exact position of the strait in question. While,
+therefore, Captain Lyon was acquainting me with his late proceedings, we
+shaped a course for Igloolik, in order to continue our look-out upon the
+ice, and made the tents very accurately by the compass, after a run of
+five leagues.
+
+The present state of the ice, which was thin and "rotten,", served no
+less to excite our surprise than to keep alive our hopes and
+expectations. The spaces occupied respectively by ice and holes were
+about equal; and so extensive and dangerous were the latter, that the
+men could with extreme difficulty walk twenty or thirty yards from the
+ship to place the anchors, and that at no small risk of falling through.
+We were astonished, therefore, to find with what tenacity a field of
+ice, whose parts appeared thus loosely joined, still continued to hang
+together, notwithstanding the action of the swell that almost constantly
+set upon its margin.
+
+We had for several days past occasionally seen black whales about the
+ships, and our boats were kept in constant readiness to strike one, for
+the sake of the oil, in which endeavour they at length succeeded this
+morning. The usual signal being exhibited, all the boats were sent to
+their assistance, and in less than an hour and a half had killed and
+secured the fish, which proved a moderate-sized one of above "nine feet
+bone," exactly suiting our purpose. The operation of "flinching" this
+animal, which was thirty-nine feet and a half in length, occupied most
+of the afternoon, each ship taking half the blubber and hauling it on
+the ice, "to make off" or put into casks.
+
+As soon as we had completed the stowage of the blubber, and washed the
+ships and people's clothes, we cast off on the 6th, taking in tow the
+carcass of the whale (technically called the "crang") for our friends at
+Igloolik. The wind dying away when the ships were off the northeast end
+of the island, the boats were despatched to tow the whale on shore,
+while Captain Lyon and myself went ahead to meet some of the canoes that
+were paddling towards us. We soon joined eleven of them, and on our
+informing the Esquimaux of the prize the boats were bringing them, they
+paddled off with great delight. When they arrived at the spot, and had
+civilly asked permission to eat some of it, they dropped their canoes
+astern to the whale's tail, from which they cut off enormous lumps of
+flesh and ravenously devoured it; after which they followed our boats
+in-shore, where the carcass was made fast to a mass of grounded ice for
+their future disposal.
+
+As we made several tacks off the island next to the northward of
+Igloolik, called by the Esquimaux _Neerlo-Nackto_, two canoes came off
+to us, in one of which was Toolemak. He and his companions came on board
+the Fury, when I employed him for a couple of hours in drawing a chart
+of the strait. Toolemak, though a sensible and intelligent man, we soon
+found to be no draughtsman, so that his performance in this way, if
+taken alone, was not a very intelligible delineation of the coast. By
+dint, however, of a great deal of talking on his part, and some exercise
+of patience on ours, we at length obtained a copious verbal illustration
+of his sketch, which confirmed all our former accounts respecting the
+existence of a passage to the westward in this immediate neighbourhood,
+and the large extent of land on the northern side of the strait.
+Toolemak also agreed with our other Esquimaux informants in stating,
+that from the coast of Akkoolee no land is visible to the westward; nor
+was any ever heard of in that direction by the Esquimaux. This fact they
+uniformly assert with a whine of sorrow, meaning thereby to intimate
+that their knowledge and resources are there both at an end.
+
+The disruption of the ice continued to proceed slowly till early on the
+morning of the 14th; the breeze having freshened from the northwest,
+another floe broke away from the fixed ice, allowing us to gain about
+half a mile more to the westward; such was the vexatious slowness with
+which we were permitted to advance towards the object of our most
+anxious wishes!
+
+On the 14th I left the ship with Mr. Richards and four men, and
+furnished with provisions for ten days, intending, if possible, to reach
+the main land at a point where we could overlook the strait. In this we
+succeeded after a journey of four days, arriving on the morning of the
+18th at the extreme northern point of a peninsula, overlooking the
+narrowest part of the desired strait, which lay immediately below us in
+about an east and west direction, being two miles in width, apparently
+very deep, and with a tide or current of at least two knots, setting the
+loose ice through to the eastward. Beyond us, to the west, the shores
+again separated to the distance of several leagues; and for more than
+three points of the compass, in that direction, no land could be seen to
+the utmost limits of a clear horizon, except one island six or seven
+miles distant. Over this we could not entertain a doubt of having
+discovered the Polar Sea; and, loaded as it was with ice, we already
+felt as if we were on the point of forcing our way through it along the
+northern shores of America.
+
+After despatching one of our party to the foot of the point for some of
+the sea-water, which was found extremely salt to the taste, we hailed
+the interesting event of the morning by three hearty cheers and by a
+small extra allowance of grog to our people, to drink a safe and speedy
+passage through the channel just discovered, which I ventured to name,
+by anticipation, THE STRAIT OF THE FURY AND HECLA. Having built a pile
+of stones upon the promontory, which, from its situation with respect to
+the Continent of America, I called CAPE NORTHEAST, we walked back to our
+tent and baggage, these having, for the sake of greater expedition, been
+left two miles behind; and, after resting a few hours, set out at three
+P.M. on our return.
+
+We reached the ships at ten o'clock P.M. on Tuesday the 20th. On almost
+all the shores both of the main land and islands that we visited, some
+traces of the Esquimaux were found; but they were less numerous than in
+any other places on which we had hitherto landed. This circumstance
+rather seemed to intimate, as we afterward found to be the case, that
+the shores of the strait and its immediate neighbourhood are not a
+frequent resort of the natives during the summer months.
+
+We got under way on the 21st, were off Cape Northeast on the 26th, and I
+gave the name of CAPE OSSORY to the eastern point of the northern land
+of the Narrows; but on that day, after clearing two dangerous shoals,
+and again deepening our soundings, we had begun to indulge the most
+flattering hopes of now making such a rapid progress as would in some
+degree compensate for all our delays and disappointments, when, at once
+to crush every expectation of this sort, it was suddenly announced from
+the crow's nest that another barrier of _fixed_ ice stretched completely
+across the strait, a little beyond us, in one continuous and
+impenetrable field, still occupying its winter station. In less than an
+hour we had reached its margin, when, finding this report but too
+correct, and that, therefore, all farther progress was at present as
+impracticable as if no strait existed, we ran the ships under all sail
+for the floe, which proved so "rotten" and decayed that the ships forced
+themselves three or four hundred yards through it before they stopped.
+Keeping all our canvass spread, we then tried to break the thin edges
+about the numerous holes, by dropping weights over the bows, as well as
+by various other equally ineffectual expedients; but the ice was "tough"
+enough to resist every effort of this kind, though its watery state was
+such as to increase, if possible, our annoyance at being stopped by it.
+The passage to the northward of the island was not even so clear as this
+by above two miles of ice, so that in every respect our present route
+was to be preferred to the other; and thus, after a vexatious delay of
+six weeks at the eastern entrance of the strait, and at a time when we
+had every reason to hope that nature, though hitherto tardy in her
+annual disruption of the ice, had at length made an effort to complete
+it, did we find our progress once more opposed by a barrier of the same
+continuous, impenetrable, and hopeless nature as at first!
+
+As soon as the anchors were dropped, my attention was once more turned
+to the main object of the expedition, from which it had for a moment
+been diverted by the necessity of exerting every effort for the
+immediate safety of the ships. This being now provided for, I had
+leisure to consider in what manner, hampered as the ships were by the
+present state of the ice, our means and exertions might, during this
+unavoidable detention, be employed to the greatest advantage, or, at
+least, with the best prospect of ultimate utility.
+
+Whatever doubts might at a distance have been entertained respecting the
+identity, or the contrary, of the place visited by Captain Lyon with
+that subsequently discovered by myself, there could be none on a nearer
+view; as, independently of the observed latitude, Captain Lyon could
+not, on approaching the narrows, recognise a single feature of the land;
+our present channel being evidently a much wider and more extensive one
+than that pointed out by Toolemak, on the journey. It became, therefore,
+a matter of interest, now that this point was settled and our progress
+again stopped by an insuperable obstacle, to ascertain the extent and
+communication of the southern inlet; and, should it prove a second
+strait, to watch the breaking up of the ice about its eastern entrance,
+that no favourable opportunity might be missed of pushing through it to
+the westward. I therefore determined to despatch three separate parties,
+to satisfy all doubts in that quarter, as well as to gain every possible
+information as to the length of the strait, and the extent of the fixed
+ice now more immediately before us.
+
+With this view, I requested Captain Lyon to take with him Mr. Griffiths
+and four men, and proceed overland in a S.b.E. direction, till he should
+determine, by the difference of latitude, which amounted only to sixteen
+miles, whether there was or was not a strait leading to the westward,
+about the parallel of 69° 26', being nearly that in which the place
+called by the Esquimaux _Kh=emig_ had been found by observation to
+lie. In the mean time, Lieutenant Palmer was directed to proceed in a
+boat to Igloolik, or Neerlo-Nackto, as might be necessary, to ascertain
+whether the passage leading towards Kh=emig was yet clear of ice; and,
+should he find any one of the Esquimaux willing to accompany him to the
+ships with his canoe, to bring him on board as a pilot. The third party
+consisted of Mr. Bushnan, with three men, under the command of
+Lieutenant Reid, who was instructed to proceed along the continental
+coast to the westward, to gain as much information as possible
+respecting the termination of our present strait, the time of his return
+to the ships being limited to four days, at the expiration of which the
+other two parties might also be expected to reach us.
+
+On the morning of the 29th, the wind being light from the eastward, but
+the weather much more clear than before, we weighed and stood over to
+the mainland with the intention of putting our travellers on shore, but
+found that coast now so lined with the ice which had lately broken
+adrift that it was not possible for a boat to approach it. Standing off
+to the westward, to see what service the late disruption had done us, we
+found that a considerable floe had separated, exactly in a line between
+the island off which we lay and a second to the westward of it,
+subsequently named in honour of LORD AMHERST. Tacking at the
+newly-formed margin of the fixed ice, we observed, not only that it was
+still firmly attached to the shores, but that it was now almost entirely
+"hummocky," and heavier than any we had seen since making Igloolik; some
+of the hummocks, as we afterward found, measuring from eight to ten feet
+above the surface of the sea.
+
+The different character now assumed by the ice, while it certainly
+damped our hopes of the passage being cleared this season by the gradual
+effects of dissolution, confirmed, however, in a very satisfactory
+manner, the belief of our being in a broad channel communicating with a
+western sea. As the conclusions we immediately drew from this
+circumstance may not be so obvious to others, I shall here briefly
+explain that, from the manner in which the hummocky floes are formed, it
+is next to impossible that any of these of considerable extent can ever
+be produced in a mere inlet having a narrow communication with the sea.
+There is, in fact, no ice to which the denomination of "sea-ice" may be
+more strictly and exclusively applied than this; and we therefore felt
+confident that the immense floes which now opposed our progress must
+have come from the sea on one side or the other; while the current,
+which we had observed to run in an easterly direction in the narrows, of
+this strait, precluded the possibility of such ice having found its way
+in from that quarter. The only remaining conclusion was, that it must
+have been set into the strait from the westward towards the close of a
+summer, and cemented in its present situation by the frost of the
+succeeding winter.
+
+A great deal of snow having fallen in the last two days, scarcely a dark
+patch was now to be seen on any part of the land, so that the prospect
+at daylight on the 30th was as comfortless as can well be imagined for
+the parties who were just about to find their way among the rocks and
+precipices. Soon after four A.M., however, when we had ascertained that
+the drift-ice was no longer lying in their way, they were all
+despatched in their different directions. For each of the land-parties a
+depôt of several days' provision and fuel was, in case of accidents,
+established on the beach; and Lieutenant Palmer took in his boat a
+supply for nine days.
+
+On the 31st the wind blew fresh and cold from the northwest, which
+caused a quantity of ice to separate from the fixed floe in small pieces
+during the day, and drift past the ships. Early in the morning, a
+she-bear and her two cubs were observed floating down on one of these
+masses, and, coming close to the Hecla, were all killed. The female
+proved remarkably small, two or three men being able to lift her into a
+boat.
+
+At half past nine on the morning of the 1st of September, one of our
+parties was descried at the appointed rendezvous on shore, which, on our
+sending a boat to bring them on board, proved to be Captain Lyon and his
+people. From their early arrival we were in hopes that some decisive
+information had at length been obtained; and our disappointment may
+therefore be imagined, in finding that, owing to insuperable obstacles,
+on the road, he had not been able to advance above five or six miles to
+the southward, and that with excessive danger and fatigue, owing to the
+depth of the snow, and the numerous lakes and precipices.
+
+At nine A.M. on the 2d, Lieutenant Reid and his party were descried at
+their landing-place, and a boat being sent for them, arrived on board at
+half past eleven. He reported that the ice seemed to extend from Amherst
+Island as far as they could see to the westward, presenting one unbroken
+surface from the north to the south shore of the strait.
+
+Notwithstanding every exertion on the part of our travellers, their
+labours had not thrown much light on the geography of this part of the
+coast, nor added any information that could be of practical use in
+directing the operations of the ships. The important question respecting
+a second passage leading to the westward still remained as much a matter
+of mere conjecture as at first; while the advanced period of the season,
+and the unpromising appearance of the ice now opposing our progress,
+rendered it more essential than ever that this point should, if
+possible, be decided. Under this impression it occurred to me, that the
+desired object might possibly be accomplished by pursuing the route
+along the head or western shore of Richards's Bay, part of which I had
+already traversed on my former journey, and found it much less laborious
+walking than that experienced by Captain Lyon on the higher and more
+rugged mountains inland. I determined, therefore, to make this attempt,
+taking with me Mr. Richards and most of my former companions.
+
+This night proved the coldest we had experienced during the present
+season, and the thermometer stood at 24° when I left the ships at four
+A.M. on the 3d, having previously directed Captain Lyon to remain as
+near their present station as might be consistent with safety, and
+carefully watch for any alteration that might occur in the western ice.
+
+Being favoured by a strong northwesterly breeze, we reached the narrows
+at half past six A.M., and immediately encountered a race or ripple, so
+heavy and dangerous that it was only by carrying a press of canvass on
+the boat that we succeeded in keeping the seas from constantly breaking
+into her. This rippling appeared to be occasioned by the sudden
+obstruction which the current meets at the western mouth of the narrows,
+aided, in the present instance, by the strong breeze that blew directly
+upon the corner forming the entrance on the south side.
+
+Having landed at Cape Northeast, I made sail for the isthmus at ten
+A.M., where we arrived after an hour's run; and hauling the boat up on
+the rocks, and depositing the greater part of our stores near her, set
+off at one P.M. along the shore of Richards's Bay, being equipped with
+only three days' provision, and as small a weight of clothing as
+possible. The coast, though not bad for travelling, led us so much more
+to the westward than I expected, in consequence of its numerous
+indentations, that, after above five hours' hard walking, we had only
+made good a W.S.W. course, direct distance six miles. We obtained on
+every eminence a distinct view of the ice the whole way down to
+Neerlo-nakto, in which space not a drop of clear water was discernible;
+the whole of Richards's Bay was filled with ice as before.
+
+We moved at six P.M. on the 4th, and soon came to a number of lakes from
+half a mile to two miles in length occurring in chains of three or four
+together, round which we had to walk, at the expense of much time and
+labour. At half past six, on gaining a sight of the sea from the top of
+a hill, we immediately recognised to the eastward the numerous islands
+of red granite described by Captain Lyon; and now perceived, what had
+before been surmised, that the south shore of Richards's Bay formed the
+northern coast of the inlet, up which his journey with the Esquimaux had
+been pursued. Our latitude, by account from noon, being now 69° 28', we
+felt confident that a short walk directly to the south must bring us to
+any strait communicating with that inlet, and we therefore pushed on in
+confident expectation of being near our journey's end. At seven P.M.,
+leaving the men to pitch the tent in a sheltered valley, Mr. Richards
+and myself ascended the hill that rose beyond it, and, on reaching its
+summit, found ourselves overlooking a long and narrow arm of the sea
+communicating with the inlet before seen to the eastward, and appearing
+to extend several miles nearly in an east and west direction, or
+parallel to the table-land before described, from which it is distant
+three or four miles. That the creek we now overlooked was a part of the
+same arm of the sea which Captain Lyon had visited, the latitude, the
+bearings of Igloolik, which was now plainly visible, and the number and
+appearance of the Coxe Islands, which were too remarkable to be
+mistaken, all concurred in assuring us; and it only, therefore, remained
+for us to determine whether it would furnish a passage for the ships.
+Having made all the remarks which the lateness of the evening would
+permit, we descended to the tent at dusk, being directed by a cheerful,
+blazing fire of the _andromeda tetragona_, which, in its present dry
+state, served as excellent fuel for warming our provisions.
+
+Setting forward at five A.M. on the 5th, along some pleasant valleys
+covered with grass and other vegetation, and the resort of numerous
+reindeer, we walked six or seven miles in a direction parallel to that
+of the creek; when, finding the latter considerably narrowed, and the
+numerous low points of its south shore rendering the water too shoal, to
+all appearance, even for the navigation of a sloop of ten tons, I
+determined to waste no more time in the farther examination of so
+insignificant a place. The farther we went to the westward, the higher
+the hills became; and the commanding prospect thus afforded enabled us
+distinctly to perceive with a glass that, though the ice had become
+entirely dissolved in the creek, and for half a mile below it, the whole
+sea to the eastward, even as far as Igloolik, was covered with one
+continuous and unbroken floe.
+
+Having now completely satisfied myself, that, as respected both ice and
+land, there was no navigable passage for ships about this latitude, no
+time was lost in setting out on our return.
+
+At half past eight we arrived on board, where I was happy to find that
+all our parties had returned without accident, except that Lieutenant
+Palmer had been wounded in his hand and temporarily blinded by a gun
+accidentally going off, from which, however, he fortunately suffered no
+eventual injury.
+
+The result of our late endeavours, necessarily cramped as they had been,
+was to confirm, in the most satisfactory manner, the conviction that we
+were now in the only passage leading to the westward that existed in
+this neighbourhood. Notwithstanding, therefore, the present unpromising
+appearance of the ice, I had no alternative left me but patiently to
+await its disruption, and instantly to avail myself of any alteration
+that nature might yet effect in our favour.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+
+     A Journey performed along the South Shore of Cockburn
+     Island.--Confirmation of an Outlet to the Polar Sea.--Partial
+     Disruption of the Old Ice, and formation of New.--Return through
+     the Narrows to the Eastward.--Proceed to examine the Coast to the
+     Northeastward.--Fury's Anchor broken.--Stand over to Igloolik to
+     look for Winter-quarters.--Excursion to the Head of Quilliam
+     Creek.--Ships forced to the Westward by Gales of Wind--A Canal
+     sawed through the Ice, and the Ships secured in their Winter
+     Station.--Continued Visits of the Esquimaux, and Arrival of some of
+     the Winter Island Tribe.--Proposed Plan of Operations in the
+     ensuing Spring.
+
+
+
+A light air springing up from the eastward on the morning of the 8th, we
+took advantage of it to run up the margin of the fixed ice, which was
+now, perhaps, half a mile farther to the westward, in consequence of
+small pieces being occasionally detached from it, than it had been when
+we tacked off it ten days before.
+
+The pools on the floes were now so hardly frozen, that skating and
+sliding were going on upon them the whole day, though but a week before
+it had been dangerous to venture upon them.
+
+This latter circumstance, together with the fineness of the weather, and
+the tempting appearance of the shore of Cockburn Island, which seemed
+better calculated for travelling than any that we had seen, combined to
+induce me to despatch another party to the westward, with the hope of
+increasing, by the only means within our reach, our knowledge of the
+lands and sea in that direction. Lieutenant Reid and Mr. Bushnan were
+once more selected for that service, to be accompanied by eight men, a
+large number being preferred, because by this means only is it
+practicable to accomplish a tolerably long journey, especially on
+account of the additional weight of warm clothing which the present
+advanced state of the season rendered indispensable. Lieutenant Reid was
+furnished with six days' provisions, and directed to land where most
+practicable on the northern shore, and thence to pursue his journey to
+the westward as far as his resources would admit, gaining all possible
+information that might be useful or interesting.
+
+On the 14th, while an easterly breeze continued, the water increased
+very much in breadth to the westward of the fixed floe to which we were
+attached; several lanes opening out, and leaving in some places a
+channel not less than three miles in width. At two P.M., the wind
+suddenly shifting to the westward, closed up every open space in a few
+hours, leaving not a drop of water in sight from the masthead in that
+direction. To this, however, we had no objection; for being now certain
+that the ice was at liberty to move in the western part of the strait,
+we felt confident that, if once our present narrow barrier were also
+detached, the ordinary changes of wind and tide would inevitably afford
+us opportunities of making progress. The westerly wind was accompanied
+by fine snow, which continued during the night, rendering the weather
+extremely thick, and our situation, consequently, very precarious,
+should the ice give way during the hours of darkness.
+
+At four P.M. on the 15th we discovered our travellers upon the ice. A
+fresh party being despatched to meet and to relieve them of their
+knapsacks, Lieutenant Reid arrived safely on board at seven P.M.,
+having, by a quick and most satisfactory journey, ascertained the
+immediate junction of the Strait of the Fury and Hecla with the Polar
+Sea.
+
+The weather continuing very thick, with small snow, and there being now
+every reason to suppose a final disruption of the fixed ice at hand, I
+determined to provide against the danger to which, at night, this
+long-wished-for event would expose the ships, by adopting a plan that
+had often before occurred to me as likely to prove beneficial in an
+unknown and critical navigation such as this. This was nothing more than
+the establishment of a temporary lighthouse on shore during the night,
+which, in case of our getting adrift, would, together with the
+soundings, afford us that security which the sluggish traversing of the
+compasses otherwise rendered extremely doubtful. For this purpose, two
+steady men, provided with a tent and blankets, were landed on the east
+point of Amherst Island at sunset, to keep up some bright lights during
+the eight hours of darkness, and to be sent for at daylight in the
+morning.
+
+On the 17th the wind freshened almost to a gale from the northwest, with
+thicker and more constant snow than before. The thermometer fell to
+16-1/2° at six A.M., rose no higher than 20° in the course of the day,
+and got down to 12° at night, so that the young ice began now to form
+about us in great quantities.
+
+Appearances had now become so much against our making any farther
+progress this season, as to render it a matter of very serious
+consideration whether we ought to risk being shut up during the winter
+in the middle of the strait, where, from whatever cause it might
+proceed, the last year's ice was not yet wholly detached from the
+shores, and where a fresh formation had already commenced, which there
+was too much reason to believe would prove a permanent one. Our
+wintering in the strait involved the certainty of being frozen up for
+eleven months; a sickening prospect under any circumstances, but in the
+present instance, probably, fatal to our best hopes and expectations.
+
+The young ice had now formed so thick about the Fury, that it became
+rather doubtful whether we should get her out without an increase of
+wind to assist in extricating her, or a decrease of cold. At ten A.M.,
+however, we began to attempt it, but by noon had not moved the ship more
+than half her own length. As soon as we had reached the outer point of
+the floe, in a bay of which we had been lying, we had no longer the
+means of applying a force from without, and, if alone, should therefore
+have been helpless, at least for a time. The Hecla, however, being
+fortunately unencumbered, in consequence of having lain in a less
+sheltered place, sent her boats with a hawser to the margin of the young
+ice; and ours being carried to meet it, by men walking upon planks, at
+considerable risk of going through, she at length succeeded in pulling
+us out; and, getting into clear water, or, rather, into less tough ice,
+at three P.M. we shaped a course to the eastward.
+
+In our return to Igloolik we encountered a severe gale, but we luckily
+discovered it at half past ten A.M., though such was the difficulty of
+distinguishing this from Neerlo-nakto, or either from the mainland, on
+account of the snow that covered them, that, had it not been for the
+Esquimaux huts, we should not easily have recognised the place. At noon
+on the 24th we arrived off the point where the tents had first been
+pitched, and were immediately greeted by a number of Esquimaux, who came
+running down to the beach, shouting and jumping with all their might.
+
+As soon as we had anchored I went on shore, accompanied by several of
+the officers, to pay the Esquimaux a visit, a crowd of them meeting us,
+as usual, on the beach, and greeting us with every demonstration of joy.
+They seemed disappointed that we had not reached Akkolee, for they
+always receive with eagerness any intelligence of their distant country
+people. Many of them, and Toolemak among the number, frequently repeated
+the expressions "_Owyak Na-o_!" (no summer), "_Took-too Na-o!_" (no
+reindeer), which we considered at the time as some confirmation of our
+own surmises respecting the badness of the past summer. When we told
+them we were come to winter among them, they expressed very great, and,
+doubtless, very sincere delight, and even a few _koyennas_ (thanks)
+escaped them on the first communication of this piece of intelligence.
+
+We found these people already established in their winter residences,
+which consisted principally of the huts before described, but modified
+in various ways both as to form and materials. The roofs, which were
+wholly wanting in the summer, were now formed by skins stretched tight
+across from side to side. This, however, as we soon afterward found, was
+only a preparation for the final winter covering of snow; and, indeed,
+many of the huts were subsequently lined in the same way within, the
+skins being attached to the sides and roof by slender threads of
+whalebone, disposed in large and regular stitches. Before the passages
+already described, others were now added, from ten to fifteen feet in
+length, and from four to five feet high, neatly constructed of large
+flat slabs of ice, cemented together by snow and water. Some huts also
+were entirely built of this material, of a rude circular or octangular
+form, and roofed with skins like the others. The light and transparent
+effect within these singular habitations gave one the idea of being in a
+house of ground glass, and their newness made them look clean,
+comfortable, and wholesome. Not so the more substantial bone huts,
+which, from their extreme closeness and accumulated filth, emitted an
+almost insupportable stench, to which an abundant supply of raw and
+half-putrid walrus' flesh in no small degree contributed. The passages
+to these are so low as to make it necessary to crawl on the hands and
+knees to enter them; and the floors of the apartments were in some
+places so slippery, that we could with difficulty pass and repass,
+without the risk of continually falling among the filth with which they
+were covered. These were the dirtiest, because the most durable, of any
+Esquimaux habitations we had yet seen; and it may be supposed they did
+not much improve during the winter. Some bitches with young were very
+carefully and conveniently lodged in small square kennels, made of four
+upright slabs of ice covered with a fifth, and having a small hole as a
+door in one of the sides. The canoes were also laid upon two slabs of
+this kind, like tall tombstones standing erect; and a quantity of spare
+slabs lying in different places, gave the ground an appearance somewhat
+resembling that of a statuary's yard. Large stores of walrus' and seals'
+flesh, principally the former, were deposited under heaps of stones all
+about the beach, and, as we afterward found, in various other parts of
+the island, which showed that they had made some provision for the
+winter, though, with their enormous consumption of food, it proved a
+very inadequate one.
+
+Leaving the Fury at seven A.M. on the 26th, and being favoured by a
+fresh easterly breeze, we soon cleared the southwest point of Igloolik;
+and, having passed the little island of _Oogli=aghioo_, immediately
+perceived to the W.N.W. of us a group of islands, so exactly answering
+the description of Coxe's Group, both in character and situation, as to
+leave no doubt of our being exactly in Captain Lyon's former track.
+Being still favoured by the wind and by the total absence of fixed ice,
+we reached the islands at eleven A.M., and, after sailing a mile or two
+among them, came at once in sight of two bluffs, forming the passage
+pointed out by Toolemak, and then supposed to be called _Khemig_. The
+land to the north, called by the Esquimaux _Khiadlaghioo_, was now found
+to be, as we had before conjectured, the southern shore of Richards's
+Bay. The land on our left or to the southward proved an island, five
+miles and a quarter in length, of the same bold and rugged character as
+the rest of this numerous group, and by far the largest of them all. To
+prevent the necessity of reverting to this subject, I may at once add,
+that two or three months after this, on laying before Ewerat our own
+chart of the whole coast, in order to obtain the Esquimaux names, we
+discovered that the island just mentioned was called _Khemig_, by which
+name Ormond Island was _also_ distinguished; the word expressing, in the
+Esquimaux language, anything stopping up the mouth of a place or
+narrowing its entrance, and applied also more familiarly to the cork of
+a bottle, or a plug of any kind. And thus were reconciled all the
+apparent inconsistencies respecting this hitherto mysterious and
+incomprehensible word, which had occasioned us so much perplexity.
+
+At daylight on the 27th we crossed to a small island at the margin of
+the ice; and leaving the boat there in charge of the coxswain and two of
+the crew, Mr. Ross and myself, accompanied by the other two, set out
+across the ice at seven A.M. to gain the main land, with the intention
+of determining the extent of the inlet by walking up its southern bank.
+After an hour's good travelling, we landed at eight A.M., and had
+scarcely done so when we found ourselves at the very entrance, being
+exactly opposite the place from which Mr. Richards and myself had
+obtained the first view of the inlet. The patch of ice on which we had
+been walking, and which was about three miles long, proved the only
+remains of last year's formation; so forcibly had nature struggled to
+get rid of this before the commencement of a fresh winter.
+
+Walking quickly to the westward along this shore, which afforded
+excellent travelling, we soon perceived that our business was at an end,
+the inlet terminating a very short distance beyond where I had first
+traced it, the apparent turn to the northward being only that of a
+shallow bay.
+
+Having thus completed our object, we set out on our return, and reached
+the boat at three P.M., after a walk of twenty miles. The weather
+fortunately remaining extremely mild, no young ice was formed to
+obstruct our way, and we arrived on board at noon the following day,
+after an examination peculiarly satisfactory, inasmuch as it proved the
+non-existence of _any_ water communication with the Polar Sea, however
+small and unfit for the navigation of ships, to the southward of the
+Strait of the Fury and Hecla.
+
+I found from Captain Lyon on my return, that, in consequence of some ice
+coming in near the ships, he had shifted them round the point into the
+berths-where it was my intention to place them during the winter; where
+they now lay in from eleven to fourteen fathoms, at the distance of
+three cables' length from the shore.
+
+It was not till the afternoon of the 30th that the whole was completed,
+and the Fury placed in the best berth for the winter that circumstances
+would permit. An early release in the spring could here be scarcely
+expected, nor, indeed, did the nature of the ice about us, independently
+of situation, allow us to hope for it; but both these unfavourable
+circumstances had been brought about by a contingency which no human
+power or judgment could have obviated, and at which, therefore, it would
+have been unreasonable, as well as useless, to repine. We lay here in
+rather less than five fathoms, on a muddy bottom, at the distance of one
+cable's length from the eastern shore of the bay.
+
+The whole length of the canal we had sawed through was four thousand
+three hundred and forty-three feet; the thickness of the ice, in the
+level and regular parts, being from twelve to fourteen inches, but in
+many places, where a separation had occurred, amounting to several feet.
+I cannot sufficiently do justice to the cheerful alacrity with which the
+men continued this laborious work during thirteen days, the thermometer
+being frequently at _zero_, and once as low as -9° in that interval. It
+was satisfactory, moreover, to find, that in the performance of this,
+not a single addition had been made to the sick-list of either ship,
+except by the accident of one man's falling into the canal, who returned
+to his duty a day or two afterward.
+
+While our people were thus employed, the Esquimaux had continued to make
+daily visits to the ships, driving down on sledges with their wives and
+children, and thronging on board in great numbers, as well to gratify
+their curiosity, of which they do not, in general, possess much, as to
+pick up whatever trifles we could afford to bestow upon them. These
+people were at all times ready to assist in any work that was going on,
+pulling on the ropes, heaving at the windlass, and sawing the ice,
+sometimes for an hour together. They always accompanied their exertions
+by imitating the sailors in their peculiar manner of "singing out" when
+hauling, thus, at least, affording the latter constant amusement, if not
+any very material assistance, during their labour. Among the numerous
+young people at Igloolik, there were some whose activity on this and
+other occasions particularly struck us. Of these I shall, at present,
+only mention two: _N=o=ogloo_, an adopted son of Toolemak, and
+_K=ong~ol~ek_, a brother of "John Bull." These two young men, who
+were from eighteen to twenty years of age, and stood five feet seven
+inches in height, displayed peculiar _tact_ in acquiring our method of
+heaving at the windlass, an exercise at which _K=ong~ol~ek_ became
+expert after an hour or two's practice. The countenances of both were
+handsome and prepossessing, and their limbs well-formed and muscular;
+qualities which, combined with their activity and manliness, rendered
+them (to speak like a naturalist), perhaps, as fine specimens of the
+human race as almost any country can produce.
+
+Some of our Winter Island friends had now arrived also, being the party
+who left us there towards the end of the preceding May, and whom we had
+afterward overtaken on their journey to the northward. They were
+certainly all very glad to see us again, and, throwing off the Esquimaux
+for a time, shook us heartily by the hand, with every demonstration of
+sincere delight. Ewerat, in his quiet, sensible way, which was always
+respectable, gave us a circumstantial account of every event of his
+journey. On his arrival at _Owlitteweek_, near which island we overtook
+him, he had buried the greater part of his baggage under heaps of
+stones, the ice no longer being fit for dragging the sledge upon. Here
+also he was happily eased of a still greater burden, by the death of his
+idiot boy, who thus escaped the miseries to which a longer life must,
+among these people, have inevitably exposed him. As for that noisy
+little fellow, "John Bull" (_Kooillitiuk_), he employed almost the whole
+of his first visit in asking every one, by name, "How d'ye do, Mr. So
+and So?" a question which had obtained him great credit among our people
+at Winter Island. Being a very important little personage, he also took
+great pride in pointing out various contrivances on board the ships, and
+explaining to the other Esquimaux their different uses, to which the
+latter did not fail to listen with all the attention due to so knowing
+an oracle.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+
+     Preparations for the Winter.--Various Meteorological Phenomena to
+     the close of the year 1822.--Sickness among the
+     Esquimaux.--Meteorological Phenomena to the end of March.
+
+
+
+_November_.--The measures now adopted for the security of the ships and
+their stores, for the maintenance of economy, cleanliness, and health,
+and for the prosecution of the various observations and experiments,
+being principally the same as those already detailed in the preceding
+winter's narrative, I shall be readily excused for passing them over in
+silence.
+
+The daily visits of the Esquimaux to the ships throughout the winter
+afforded, both to officers and men, a fund of constant variety and
+never-failing amusement, which no resources of our own could possibly
+have furnished. Our people were, however, too well aware of the
+advantage they derived from the schools not to be desirous of their
+re-establishment, which accordingly took place soon after our arrival at
+Igloolik; and they were glad to continue this as their evening
+occupation during the six succeeding months.
+
+The year closed with the temperature of -42°, the mean of the month of
+December having been 27° 8', which, taken in connexion with that of
+November, led us to expect a severe winter.
+
+About the middle of the month of December several of the Esquimaux had
+moved from the huts at Igloolik, some taking up their quarters on the
+ice at a considerable distance to the northwest, and the rest about a
+mile outside the summer station of the tents. At the close of the year
+from fifty to sixty individuals had thus decamped, their object being,
+like that of other savages on _terra firma_, to increase their means of
+subsistence by covering more ground; their movements were arranged so
+quietly that we seldom heard of their intentions till they were gone. At
+the new stations they lived entirely in huts of snow; and the northerly
+and easterly winds were considered by them most favourable for their
+fishing, as these served to bring in the loose ice, on which they
+principally kill the walruses.
+
+Towards the latter end of January [1823], the accounts from the huts, as
+well from the Esquimaux as from our own people, concurred in stating
+that the number of the sick, as well as the seriousness of their
+complaints, was rapidly increasing there. We had, indeed, scarcely heard
+of the illness of a woman named _Kei-m=o=o-seuk_, who, it seemed,
+had lately miscarried, when an account arrived of her death. She was one
+of the two wives of _Ooyarra_, one of Captain Lyon's fellow-travellers
+in the summer, who buried her in the snow, about two hundred yards from
+the huts, placing slabs of the same perishable substance over the body,
+and cementing them by pouring a little water in the interstices. Such an
+interment was not likely to be a very secure one; and, accordingly, a
+few days after, the hungry dogs removed the snow and devoured the body.
+
+Captain Lyon gave me the following account of the death and burial of
+another poor woman and her child:
+
+
+     "The mother, Poo-too-alook, was about thirty-five years of age, the
+     child about three years--yet not weaned, and a female; there was
+     also another daughter, Shega, about twelve or thirteen years of
+     age, who, as well as her father, was a most attentive nurse. My
+     hopes were but small, as far as concerned the mother; but the child
+     was so patient that I hoped, from its docility, soon to accustom it
+     to soups and nourishing food, as its only complaint was actual
+     starvation. I screened off a portion of my cabin, and arranged some
+     bedding for them, in the same manner as the Esquimaux do their own.
+     Warm broth, dry bedding, and a comfortable cabin, did wonders
+     before evening, and our medical men gave me great hopes. As an
+     introduction to a system of cleanliness, and preparatory to
+     washing the sick, who were in a most filthy state, I scrubbed Shega
+     and her father from head to foot, and dressed them in new clothes.
+     During the night I persuaded both mother and child, who were very
+     restless, and constantly moaning, to take a few spoonfuls of soup.
+     On the morning of the 24th the woman appeared considerably
+     improved, and she both spoke and ate a little. As she was covered
+     with so thick a coating of dirt that it could be taken off in
+     scales, I obtained her assent to wash her face and hands a little
+     before noon. The man and his daughter now came to my table to look
+     at some things I had laid out to amuse them; and, after a few
+     minutes, Shega lifted up the curtain to look at her mother, when
+     she again let it fall, and tremblingly told us she was dead.
+
+     "The husband sighed heavily, the daughter burst into tears, and the
+     poor little infant made the moment more distressing by calling in a
+     plaintive tone on its mother, by whose side it was lying. I
+     determined on burying the woman on shore, and the husband was much
+     pleased at my promising that the body should be drawn on a sledge
+     by men instead of dogs; for, to our horror, Takkeelikkeeta had told
+     me that dogs had eaten part of Keimooseuk, and that, when he left
+     the huts with his wife, one was devouring the body as he passed it.
+
+     "Takkeelikkeeta now prepared to dress the dead body, and, in the
+     first place, stopped his nose with deer's hair and put on his
+     gloves, seeming unwilling that his naked hand should come in
+     contact with the corpse. I observed, in this occupation, his care
+     that every article of dress should be as carefully placed as when
+     his wife was living; and, having drawn the boots on the wrong legs,
+     he pulled them off again and put them properly. This ceremony
+     finished, the deceased was sewed up in a hammock, and, at the
+     husband's urgent request, her face was left uncovered. An officer
+     who was present at the time agreed with me in fancying that the
+     man, from his words and actions, intimated a wish that the living
+     child might be enclosed with its mother. We may have been mistaken,
+     but there is an equal probability that we were right in our
+     conjecture; for, according to Crantz and Egede, the Greenlanders
+     were in the habit of burying their motherless infants, from a
+     persuasion that they must otherwise starve to death, and also from
+     being unable to bear the cries of the little ones while lingering
+     for several days without sustenance; for no woman will give them
+     any share of their milk, which they consider as the exclusive
+     property of their own offspring. My dogs being carefully tied up at
+     the man's request, a party of our people, accompanied by me, drew
+     the body to the shore, where we made a grave, about a foot deep,
+     being unable to get lower on account of the frozen earth. The body
+     was placed on its back, at the husband's request, and he then
+     stepped into the grave and cut all the stitches of the hammock,
+     although without throwing it open, seeming to imply that the dead
+     should be left unconfined. I laid a woman's knife by the side of
+     the body, and we filled up the grave, over which we also piled a
+     quantity of heavy stones, which no animal could remove. When all
+     was done and we returned to the ship, the man lingered a few
+     minutes behind us and repeated two or three sentences, as if
+     addressing himself to his departed wife; he then silently followed.
+     We found Shega quite composed, and attending her little sister,
+     between whose eyebrows she had made a spot with soot, which I
+     learned was because, being unweaned, it must certainly die. During
+     the night my little charge called on its mother without
+     intermission, yet the father slept as soundly until morning as if
+     nothing had happened.
+
+     "All who saw my patient on the morning of the 25th gave me great
+     hopes; she could swallow easily, and was even strong enough to turn
+     or sit upright without assistance, and in the forenoon slept very
+     soundly. At noon, the sister of the deceased, Ootooguak, with her
+     husband and son, came to visit me. She had first gone to the Fury,
+     and was laughing on deck, and, at her own request, was taken below,
+     not caring to hurry herself to come to the house of mourning. Even
+     when she came to the Hecla she was in high spirits, laughing and
+     capering on deck as if nothing had happened; but, on being shown to
+     my cabin, where Shega, having heard of her arrival, was sitting
+     crying in readiness, she began with her niece to howl most wofully.
+     I, however, put a stop to this ceremony, for such it certainly was,
+     under the plea of disturbing the child. The arrival of a pot of
+     smoking walrus-flesh soon brought smiles on all faces but that of
+     Takkeelikkeeta, who refused food and sat sighing deeply; the others
+     ate, chatted, and laughed as if nothing but eating was worth
+     thinking of. Dinner being over, I received thanks for burying the
+     woman in such a way that 'neither wolves, dogs, nor foxes could dig
+     her up and eat her,' for all were full of the story of Keimooseuk,
+     and even begged some of our officers to go to Igloolik and shoot
+     the offending dogs. A young woman named Ablik, sister to Ooyarra,
+     was induced, after much entreaty and a very large present of beads,
+     to offer her breast to the sick child, but the poor little creature
+     pushed it angrily away. Another woman was asked to do the same;
+     but, although her child was half weaned, she flatly refused.
+
+     "The aunt of my little one seeming anxious to remain, and Shega
+     being now alone, I invited her to stop the night. In the evening
+     the child took meat and jelly, and sat up to help itself, but it
+     soon after resumed its melancholy cry for its mother. At night my
+     party had retired to sleep; yet I heard loud sighing occasionally,
+     and, on lifting the curtain, I saw Takkeelikkeeta standing and
+     looking mournfully at his child. I endeavoured to compose him, and
+     he promised to go to bed; but, hearing him again sighing in a few
+     minutes, I went and found the poor infant was dead, and that its
+     father had been some time aware of it. He now told me it had seen
+     its mother the last time it called on her, and that she had
+     beckoned it to Khil-la (Heaven), on which it instantly died. He
+     said it was 'good' that the child was gone; that no children
+     outlived their mothers; and that the black spot, which Shega had
+     frequently renewed, was quite sufficient to ensure the death of the
+     infant.
+
+     "My party made a hearty breakfast on the 26th, and I observed they
+     did not scruple to lay the vessel containing the meat on the dead
+     child, which I had wrapped in a blanket; and this unnatural table
+     excited neither disgust nor any other feeling among them more than
+     a block of wood could have done. We now tied up all the dogs, as
+     Takkeelikkeeta had desired, and took the child about a quarter of a
+     mile astern of the ships, to bury it in the snow; for the father
+     assured me that her mother would cry in her grave if any weight of
+     stones or earth pressed on her infant. She herself, he feared, had
+     already felt pain from the monument of stones which we had laid
+     upon her. The snow in which we dug the child's grave was not above
+     a foot deep, yet we were not allowed to cut into the ice, or even
+     use any slabs of it in constructing the little tomb. The body,
+     wrapped in a blanket, and having the face uncovered, being placed,
+     the father put the slings by which its deceased mother had carried
+     it on the right side, and, in compliance with the Esquimaux custom
+     of burying toys and presents with their dead, I threw in some
+     beads. A few loose slabs of snow were now placed so as to cover,
+     without touching, the body, and with this very slight sepulchre the
+     father was contented, although a fox could have dug through it in
+     half a minute. We, however, added more snow, and cemented all by
+     pouring about twenty buckets of water, which were brought from the
+     ship, on every part of the mound. I remarked that, before our task
+     was completed, the man turned and walked quietly to the ships.
+
+     "During the last two days I obtained some information with respect
+     to mourning ceremonies, or, at all events, such as related to the
+     loss of a mother of a family; three days were to be passed by the
+     survivors without their walking on the ice, performing any kind of
+     work, or even having anything made for them. Washing is out of the
+     question with Esquimaux at most times, but now I was not allowed to
+     perform the necessary ablutions of their hands and faces, however
+     greasy or dirty they might be made by their food; the girl's hair
+     was not to be put into pig-tails, and everything was neglected;
+     Takkeelikkeeta was not to go sealing until the summer. With the
+     exception of an occasional sigh from the man, there were no more
+     signs of grief; our mourners ate, drank, and were merry, and no one
+     would have supposed they ever had wife, mother, or sister. When the
+     three days (and it is singular that such should be the time) were
+     expired, the man was to visit the grave; and, having talked with
+     his wife, all duties were to be considered as over. The 28th was
+     our third day, but a heavy northerly gale and thick drift prevented
+     our visiting the grave. The 29th, although not fine, was more
+     moderate, and I accompanied him at an early hour. Arriving at the
+     grave, he anxiously walked up to it and carefully sought for
+     foot-tracks on the snow; but, finding none, repeated to himself,
+     'No wolves, no dogs, no foxes; thank ye, thank ye.' He now began a
+     conversation, which he directed entirely to his wife. He called her
+     twice by name, and twice told her how the wind was blowing, looking
+     at the same time in the direction from whence the drift was coming.
+     He next broke forth into a low monotonous chant, and, keeping his
+     eyes fixed upon the grave, walked slowly round it in the direction
+     of the sun four or five times, and at each circuit he stopped a few
+     moments at the head. His song was, however, uninterrupted. At the
+     expiration of about eight minutes he stopped, and, suddenly
+     turning round to me, exclaimed, '_Tugw~a_' (that's enough), and
+     began walking back to the ship. In the song he chanted I could
+     frequently distinguish the word _Koyenna_ (thank you), and it was
+     occasionally coupled with the Kabloonas. Two other expressions,
+     both the names of the spirits or familiars of the Annatko,
+     Toolemak, were used a few times; but the whole of the other words
+     were perfectly unintelligible to me.
+
+     "I now sent Shega and her father home, well clothed and in good
+     case. The week they had passed on board was sufficient time to gain
+     them the esteem of every one, for they were the most quiet,
+     inoffensive beings I ever met with; and, to their great credit,
+     they never once begged. The man was remarkable for his
+     extraordinary fondness for treacle, sugar, salt, acids, and
+     spruce-beer, which the others of the tribe could not even smell
+     without disgust; and he walked about to the different messes in
+     hopes of being treated with these delicacies. Shega was a timid,
+     well-behaved girl, and generally remained eating in my cabin, for I
+     am confident of speaking far within bounds when I say she got
+     through eight pounds of solids per diem. As far as gratitude could
+     be shown by Esquimaux, which is saying 'koyenna' on receiving a
+     present, my friends were sensible of the attentions I had shown
+     them."
+
+
+_March_ 5th.--The Esquimaux were about this time rather badly off for
+food, in consequence of the winds having of late been unfavourable for
+their fishery; but this had only occurred two or three times in the
+course of the winter, and never so much as to occasion any great
+distress. It is certain, indeed, that the quantity of meat which they
+procured between the 1st of October and the 1st of April was sufficient
+to furnish about double the population of working people who were
+moderate eaters, and had any idea of providing for a future day; but to
+individuals who can demolish four or five pounds at a sitting, and at
+least ten in the course of a day,[003] and who never bestow a thought on
+to-morrow, at least with a view to provide for it by economy, there is
+scarcely any supply which could secure them from occasional scarcity. It
+is highly probable that the alternate feasting and fasting to which the
+gluttony and improvidence of these people so constantly subject them,
+may have occasioned many of the complaints that proved fatal during the
+winter; and on this account we hardly knew whether to rejoice or not at
+the general success of their fishery. Certain it is, that on a
+particular occasion of great plenty, one or two individuals were seen
+lying in the huts, so distended by the quantity of meat they had eaten
+that they were unable to move, and were suffering considerable pain,
+arising solely from this cause. Indeed, it is difficult to assign any
+other probable reason for the lamentable proportion of deaths that took
+place during our stay at Igloolik, while, during a season of nearly
+equal severity, and of much greater privation as to food, at Winter
+Island, not a single death occurred. Notwithstanding their general
+plenty, there were times in the course of this winter, as well as the
+last, when our bread-dust was of real service to them, and they were
+always particularly desirous of obtaining it for their younger children.
+They distinguished this kind of food by the name of _k=an~ibr~o~ot_,
+and biscuit or soft bread by that of _sh=eg~al~ak_, the literal meaning
+of which terms we never could discover, but supposed them to have some
+reference to their respective qualities.
+
+Our lengthened acquaintance with the Esquimaux and their language, which
+a second winter passed among them afforded, gave us an opportunity of
+occasionally explaining to them in some measure in what direction our
+country lay, and of giving them some idea of its distance, climate,
+population, and productions. It was with extreme difficulty that these
+people had imbibed any correct idea of the superiority of rank possessed
+by some individuals among us; and when at length they came into this
+idea, they naturally measured our respective importance by the riches
+they supposed each to possess. The ships they considered, as a matter
+of course, to belong to Captain Lyon and myself, and on this account
+distinguished them by the names of _Lyon-oomiak_ and _Paree-oomiak_; but
+they believed that the boats and other parts of the furniture were the
+property of various other individuals among us. They were, therefore,
+not a little surprised to be seriously assured that neither the one nor
+the other belonged to any of us, but to a much richer and more powerful
+person, to whom we all paid respect and obedience, and at whose command
+we had come to visit and enrich the _Innuees_. Ewerat, on account of his
+steadiness and intelligence, as well as the interest with which he
+listened to anything relating to _Kabloonas_, was particularly fit to
+receive information of this nature; and a general chart of the Atlantic
+Ocean, and of the lands on each side, immediately conveyed to his mind
+an idea of the distance we had come, and the direction in which our home
+lay. This and similar information was received by Ewerat and his wife
+with the most eager astonishment and interest, not merely displayed in
+the "hei-ya!" which constitutes the usual extent of Esquimaux
+admiration, but evidently enlarging their notion respecting the other
+parts of the world, and creating in them ideas which could never before
+have entered their minds. By way of trying their inclinations, I asked
+them if they would consent to leave their own country, and, taking with
+them their children, go to live in ours, where they would see no more
+_Innuees_, and never eat any more seal or walrus. To all this they
+willingly agreed, and with an earnestness that left no doubt of their
+sincerity; Togolat adding, in an emphatic manner, "_Shagloo ooagoot
+nao_" (we do not tell a falsehood), an expression of peculiar force
+among them. The eagerness with which they assented to this proposal made
+me almost repent my curiosity, and I was glad to get out of the scrape
+by saying, that the great personage of whom I had spoken would not be
+pleased at my taking them home without having first obtained his
+permission. Information of the kind alluded to was subsequently given to
+many of the other Esquimaux, some of whom could at length pronounce the
+name of "King George" so as to be tolerably intelligible.
+
+The weather was now so pleasant, and the temperature in the sun so
+comfortable to the feelings when a shelter could be found from the wind,
+that we set up various games for the people, such as cricket, football,
+and quoits, which some of them played for many hours during the day.
+
+At the close of the month of March, we were glad to find that its mean
+temperature, being -19.75°, when taken in conjunction with those of
+January and February, appeared to constitute a mild winter for this
+latitude. There were, besides, some other circumstances, which served to
+distinguish this winter from any preceding one we had passed in the ice.
+One of the most remarkable of these was the frequent occurrence of hard,
+well-defined clouds, a feature we had hitherto considered as almost
+unknown in the winter sky of the Polar Regions. It is not improbable
+that these may have, in part, owed their origin to a large extent of sea
+keeping open to the southeastward throughout the winter, though they not
+only occurred with the wind from that quarter, but also with the colder
+weather, usually accompanying northwesterly breezes. About the time of
+the sun's reappearance, and for a week or two after it, these clouds
+were not more a subject of admiration to us on account of their novelty,
+than from the glowing richness of the tints with which they were
+adorned. It is, indeed, scarcely possible for nature, in any climate, to
+produce a sky exhibiting greater splendour and richness of colouring
+than we at times experienced in the course of this spring. The edges of
+the clouds near the sun often presented a fiery or burning appearance,
+while the opposite side of the heavens was distinguished by a deep
+purple about the horizon, gradually softening upward into a warm yet
+delicate rose-colour of inconceivable beauty. These phenomena have
+always impressed us the most forcibly about the time of the sun's
+permanent setting and that of his reappearance, especially the latter,
+and have invariably furnished a particular subject of conversation to us
+at those periods; but I do not know whether this is to be attributed so
+much to the colouring of the sky exactly at the times alluded to, as to
+our habit of setting on every enjoyment a value proportioned to its
+scarceness and novelty.
+
+Another peculiarity observed in this winter was the rare occurrence of
+the Aurora Borealis, and the extraordinary poorness of its display
+whenever it did make its appearance. It was almost invariably seen to
+the southward, between an E.S.E. and a W.S.W. bearing, generally low,
+the stationary patches of it having a tendency to form an irregular
+arch, and not unfrequently with coruscations shooting towards the
+zenith. When more diffused it still kept, in general, on the southern
+side of the zenith; but never exhibited any of those rapid and
+complicated movements observed in the course of the preceding winter,
+nor, indeed, any feature that renders it necessary to attempt a
+particular description. The electrometer was frequently tried, by Mr.
+Fisher, at times when the state of the atmosphere appeared the most
+favourable, but always without any sensible effect being produced on the
+gold leaf.
+
+The difference in the temperature of the day and night began to be
+sensible as early as the first week in March, and the daily range of the
+thermometer increased considerably from that time. The increase in the
+average temperature of the atmosphere, however, is extremely slow in
+these regions, long after the sun has attained a considerable meridian
+altitude; but this is in some degree compensated by the inconceivable
+rapidity with which the days seem to lengthen when once the sun has
+reappeared. There is, indeed, no change which continues to excite so
+much surprise as that from almost constant darkness to constant day; and
+this is, of course, the more sudden and striking, in proportion to the
+height of the latitude. Even in this comparatively low parallel, the
+change seemed sufficiently remarkable; for, soon after the middle of
+March, only ten weeks after the sun's reappearance above the horizon, a
+bright twilight appeared at midnight in the northern heavens.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+
+     Various Journeys to the Esquimaux Stations.--Preparations for the
+     Hecla's Return to England.--Remarkable Halos, &c.--Shooting Parties
+     stationed at Arlagnuk.--Journeys to Quilliam Creek.--Arrival of
+     Esquimaux from the Northward.--Account of a Journey to the Westward
+     for the purpose of reaching the Polar Sea.--The Esquimaux report
+     two Fishing-ships having been Wrecked.--A Journey performed to
+     Cockburn Island.--Discovery of Murray Maxwell Inlet.
+
+
+
+About the first and second weeks in April, the Esquimaux were in the
+habit of coming up the inlet, to the southward of the ships, to kill the
+_neitiek,_ or small seal, which brings forth its young at this season,
+and probably retires into sheltered places for that purpose. Besides the
+old seals, which were taken in the manner before explained, the
+Esquimaux also caught a great number of young ones, by fastening a hook
+to the end of a staff, and hooking them up from the sea-hole after the
+mother had been killed. Our large fishhooks were useful to them for this
+purpose, and the beautiful silvery skins of these young animals were
+occasionally brought to the ships as articles of barter: those of the
+foetus of the _neitiek_ are more yellow than the others, and, indeed,
+both in colour and texture, very much resemble raw silk.
+
+The first ducks noticed by the Esquimaux were mentioned to us on the
+16th, and a few days afterward immense flocks appeared, all of the
+king-duck species, about the open water near the margin of the ice; but
+our distance from this was so great, that we never saw any of them, and
+the weather was yet too cold to station a shooting-party in that
+neighbourhood. Dovekies were now also numerous, and a gull or two, of
+the silvery species, had been seen.
+
+On the 20th, after divine service, I took the opportunity of Captain
+Lyon and his people being on board the Fury, to communicate to the
+assembled officers and ships' companies my intentions respecting the
+future movements of the expedition; at the same time requesting Captain
+Lyon to furnish me with a list of any of the Hecla's men that might
+volunteer to remain out, as it would be necessary to fill up, or,
+perhaps, even to increase the complement of the Fury.
+
+Our preparations were therefore immediately commenced, a twelvemonths'
+provision and other stores being received by the Fury, and various
+necessary exchanges made in anchors, cables, and boats; and, in the
+course of a single fortnight, the whole of these were transported from
+ship to ship without any exposure or labour to the men outside their
+respective ships, our invaluable dogs having performed it for us with
+astonishing ease and expedition. It was a curious sight to watch these
+useful animals walking off with a bower-anchor, a boat, or a topmast,
+without any difficulty; and it may give some idea of what they are able
+to perform, to state, that nine dogs of Captain Lyon's dragged sixteen
+hundred and eleven pounds a distance of seventeen hundred and fifty
+yards in nine minutes, and that they worked in a similar way between the
+ships for seven or eight hours a day. The road was, however, very good
+at this time, and the dogs the best that could be procured.
+
+The wind settling to the southward for a few days near the end of April,
+brought an increased, and, to us a comfortable degree of warmth; and it
+was considered an event of some interest, that the snow which fell on
+the 29th dissolved as it lay on our decks, being the first time that it
+had done so this season. We now also ventured to take off some of the
+hatches for an hour or two in the day, and to admit some fresh air, a
+luxury which we had not known for six months. The Esquimaux, about this
+time, began to separate more than before, according to their usual
+custom in the spring; some of them, and especially our Winter Island
+acquaintance, setting off to the little islands called Oolglit, and
+those in our neighbourhood removing to the northeast end of Igloolik, to
+a peninsula called _Keiyuk-tarruoke_, to which, the open water was
+somewhat nearer. These people now became so much incommoded by the
+melting of their snow-huts, that they were obliged to substitute skins
+as the roofs, retaining, however, the sides and part of the passages of
+the original habitations. These demi-tents were miserable enough while
+in this state, some of the snow continually falling in, and the floor
+being constantly wet by its thawing.
+
+Favourable as the first part of the month of May had appeared with
+respect to temperature, its close was by no means equally promising, and
+on the first of June, at two A.M., the thermometer stood at +8°. This
+unusually low temperature, much exceeding in severity anything we had
+experienced at Melville Island at the same season, rendered it
+necessary to defer for a time a journey which it was proposed that
+Captain Lyon should undertake, across the land to the westward at the
+head of Quilliam Creek, and thence, by means of the ice, along the
+shores of the Polar Sea, in the direction towards Akkoolee. The object
+of this journey, like that of most of the others which had been
+performed in various directions, was to acquire all the information
+within our reach of those parts of the continental coast to which the
+ships were denied access; and it was hoped that, at the coming season,
+some judgment might be formed of the probable state of the ice along
+that shore in the summer, by which the future movements of the Fury
+might be influenced. Captain Lyon was to be accompanied by two men, and
+a complete supply of every kind for a month's travelling was to be drawn
+on a sledge by ten excellent dogs, which he had taken great pains to
+procure and train for such occasions. As I was desirous of ascertaining,
+beyond any doubt, the identity of the _Khemig_, to which I had sailed in
+the autumn, with that seen by Captain Lyon on his journey with the
+Esquimaux, I determined to accompany the travellers on my sledge as far
+as the head of Quilliam Creek, and by victualling them thus far on their
+journey, enable them to gain a day or two's resources in advance.
+Another object which I had in view was to endeavour to find a lake
+mentioned by Toolemak; who assured me that, if I could dig holes in the
+ice, which was five feet thick, plenty of large salmon might be caught
+with hooks, an experiment which seemed at least well worth the trying.
+
+On the 7th, the weather being more favourable than before, Captain Lyon
+and myself set out to the westward at half past eleven A.M., and the ice
+proving level, reached Khemig at half past five; when it was
+satisfactory to find that the route followed by Captain Lyon on his
+journey with Toolemak was precisely that which I had supposed, every
+feature of the land, of which the fog had before scarcely allowed him a
+glimpse, being now easily recognised, and every difficulty cleared up.
+Proceeding at eight A.M. on the 8th, we soon met with numerous tracks of
+deer upon the ice, which, together with the seals that lay in great
+numbers near their holes, expedited our journey very considerably, the
+dogs frequently setting off at full gallop on sniffing one of them.
+Landing at the head of Quilliam Creek at half past one, we took up an
+advantageous position for looking about us, in order to determine on the
+direction of Captain Lyon's route over land, which all the Esquimaux
+concurred in representing as a laborious one. We met with several
+reindeer immediately on our landing; and, while in pursuit of them,
+Captain Lyon discovered a lake two or three miles long and a quarter of
+a mile broad, a short distance from the tents, which we concluded to be
+that of which I was in search. As some of our party were suffering from
+snow-blindness, and, what is scarcely less painful, severe inflammation
+of the whole face, occasioned by the heat of the sun, we remained here
+for the rest of this day to make our final arrangements.
+
+At nine A.M. on: the 9th we struck the tents, and Captain Lyon set off
+to the southward, while we drove over to the lake, which is one mile
+N.N.W. of the head of the creek, and, after three or four hours'
+labour, completed a hole through the ice, which was very dark-coloured,
+brittle, and transparent, and, as Toolemak had said, about five feet
+thick. The water, which was eleven fathoms deep, flowed up within a
+couple of inches of the surface, over which lay a covering of snow
+eighteen inches in depth. In confident hope of now obtaining some fish,
+we proceeded exactly according to Toolemak's instructions; but, after
+four-and-twenty hours' trial at all depths, not even a single nibble
+rewarded our labour.
+
+Coasting the south shore, on which I wished to obtain observations and
+angles for the survey, we the next day entered a small bay, where we
+pitched our tent; our whole party being now so snow-blind with
+endeavouring to distinguish the land from the ice (so entirely were both
+covered with snow), that we could literally no longer muster one eye
+among three of us to direct the sledge. I found a handkerchief tied
+close, but not too tightly, round the eyes for a whole night, to be a
+more effectual remedy for this disagreeable complaint than any
+application of eyewater; and my companions being induced to try the same
+experiment, derived equal benefit from it. Reaching Arlagnuk towards
+evening of the 13th, we found that our parties had each thirty or forty
+ducks ready for the ships; and that the Esquimaux had lately altogether
+deserted this station, owing to the scarcity of walruses, and had
+removed to Ooglit, where these animals were said to be abundant at this
+season. Leaving our people on the morning of the 14th, I returned on
+board soon after noon, where I found that nothing worthy of particular
+notice had occurred during my absence.
+
+On the 20th three or four other Esquimaux, strangers to us, arrived at
+Igloolik from the northward, and we found from two young men who visited
+us on the following day, that they came from _Too-n=o=o-nek_, a
+place undoubtedly situated somewhere on the western coast of Baffin's
+Bay, or about some of the inlets communicating with it, as they had
+there seen several _Kabloona_ ships employed in killing whales. It is
+not improbable, from the various accounts of the direction and distance
+of Toonoonek, communicated by the Esquimaux through the usual medium of
+their charts, that the part of the seacoast so named lies at no great
+distance from Pond's Bay, in lat. 72-1/2°, which has lately become a
+common rendezvous of our Davis's Strait fishermen. Of this fact we had,
+in the course of the winter, received intimation from these people from
+time to time, and had even some reason to believe that our visit to the
+Esquimaux of the River Clyde in 1820 was known to them; but what most
+excited our interest at this time was the sledge brought by the new
+comers, the runner being composed of large single pieces of wood, one of
+them painted black over a lead-coloured priming, and the cross-bars
+consisting of heading-pieces of oak-buts, one flat board with a
+hinge-mark upon it the upper end of a skid or small boat's davit, and
+others that had evidently and recently been procured from some ship. On
+one of the heading-pieces we distinguished the letters _Brea_--, showing
+that the cask had, according to the custom of the whalers, contained
+bread on the outward passage. The nature of all these materials led us
+to suppose that it must have been procured from some vessel wrecked or
+damaged on the coast; and this suspicion was on the following day
+confirmed by our obtaining information that, at a place called
+Akk=o=odneak, a single day's journey beyond Toonoonek, two ships
+like ours had been driven on shore by the ice, and that the people had
+gone away in boats equipped for the purpose, leaving one ship on her
+beam ends, and the other upright, in which situation the vessels were
+supposed still to remain.[004]
+
+We observed on this occasion as on our first arrival at Igloolik, that
+the new Esquimaux were obliged to have recourse to the others to
+interpret to them our meaning, which circumstance, as it still appeared
+to me, was to be attributed, as before, to our speaking a kind of broken
+Esquimaux that habit had rendered familiar to our old acquaintance,
+rather than to any essential difference in the true languages of the two
+people.
+
+Toolemak having some time before promised to accompany me to the
+fishing-place, taking with him his wife, together with his sledge, dogs,
+and tent, made his appearance from Ooglit on the 23d, bringing, however,
+only the old lady and abundance of meat. Having lent him a tent and two
+of our dogs, and hired others to complete his establishment, we set out
+together at five A.M. on the 24th, my own party consisting of Mr.
+Crozier and a seaman from each ship. Arriving at Khemig towards noon, we
+found among the islands that the ice was quite covered with water,
+owing, probably, to the radiation of heat from the rocks. The weather
+proved, indeed, intensely hot this day, the thermometer in the shade, at
+the ships, being as high as 51°, and the land in this neighbourhood
+preventing the access of wind from any quarter. The travelling being
+good beyond this, we arrived within four or five miles of the head of
+Quilliam Creek at ten P.M., where we pitched the tents for the night. In
+this day's journey ten dogs had drawn my sledge a distance of forty
+statute miles since the morning, the weight on the sledge being about
+twelve hundred pounds, and half of the road very indifferent. It is the
+custom of the Esquimaux, even when meat is most abundant, to feed these
+invaluable animals only once a day, and that in the evening, which they
+consider to agree with them better than more frequent meals; we always
+observed the same practice with ours, and found that they performed
+their journeys the better for it.
+
+On the morning of the 25th, while passing close to a point of land,
+Toolemak suddenly stopped his sledge, and he and his wife walked to the
+shore, whither I immediately followed them. The old woman, preceding her
+husband, went up to a circle of stones, of which there were two or three
+on the spot, and, kneeling down within it, cried most loudly and
+bitterly for the space of two or three minutes, while Toolemak also shed
+abundant tears, but without any loud lamentation. On inquiring presently
+after, I found that this was the spot on which their tent had been
+pitched in the summer, and that the bed-place on which the old woman
+knelt had been that of their adopted son _Noogloo_, whose premature
+death we had all so much regretted. The grief displayed on this
+occasion seemed to have much sincerity in it, and there was something
+extremely touching in this quiet but unaffected tribute of sorrow on the
+spot, which so forcibly reminded them of the object of their parental
+affection. I have much gratification in adding, in this place, another
+circumstance, which, though trifling in itself, deserves to be noticed
+as doing honour to these people's hearts. They had always shown
+particular attachment to a dog they had sold me, and which bore the same
+name as a young man, a son of their own, whom they had formerly lost. In
+the course of this journey, the old woman would constantly call the dog
+"Eerninga" (son), which the affectionate animal never failed to repay by
+jumping up and licking her face all over, whenever his trace would allow
+him; and at night, after Toolemak had fed his own dogs, he frequently
+brought to our tent an extra piece of meat, expressly for
+_Ann=owtalik_, to whom these poor people seemed to take a mournful
+pleasure in now transferring their affection.
+
+Landing close to the head of the inlet on the south shore, we proceeded
+with difficulty a couple of miles over land till we came to a river, the
+limits of which the warmth of the weather was just rendering
+discernible, and which, our guides informed us was to be our fishing
+place. It was interesting to observe that, in every case of doubt as to
+the situation of a place, the best route, or the most advisable method
+of overcoming any difficulty, Toolemak invariably referred to his wife;
+and a consultation of some minutes was held by these two before they
+would determine on what was to be done, or even return an answer to our
+questions respecting it. Pitching our tents upon the banks of the river,
+we went upon the ice, which was still quite solid except close to the
+shores, and soon made two or three holes for a hook and line, the
+thickness of the ice in the middle being from six to seven feet. The
+Esquimaux fishhook is generally composed of a piece of ivory, having a
+hook of pointed iron, without a barb, let into it. The ivory they
+consider useful in attracting the salmon, but they also bait the hook
+with a piece of blubber well cleared of its oil by chewing, and securely
+tied on with a thread of sinew, so as to cover nearly the whole of the
+hook. A small piece of bone, reindeer's horn, or wood, serves as a rod,
+and with this they keep the bait constantly in motion up and down, the
+bait being from one to three feet below the surface of the ice.
+Previous, however, to commencing the fishery, the old lady, who took the
+principal part in this employment, muttered some words, to me altogether
+incomprehensible, over the hole, to which Toolemak, in a formal manner,
+added something about fish and _Kabloonas_; and the whole of this
+preparatory ceremony seemed intended to propitiate the spirit to whose
+department the salmon particularly belonged. The lady (for it seems she
+is a female) did not, however, appear to lend a very favourable ear to
+our wants or Toolemak's rhetoric; for, after many hours' patient trial
+on this and the following day, only two fish were seen and one caught to
+repay our labour.
+
+On the 27th Toolemak and his wife went over to a small shallow lake, on
+the opposite side of the river, where they caught three or four fish of
+the salmon kind, but none more than one pound in weight. He then came
+back to the tent, and made a small spear according to their own fashion;
+but with this, to his great disappointment, he could not strike a single
+fish. A sort of _fish-gig_, which we made out of four large hooks lashed
+back to back at the end of a light staff, succeeded much better, the
+bait being played in the usual manner to attract the fish, which were
+then hooked up with great ease and certainty by this instrument. In this
+manner we soon caught a dozen of the same kind as before; and the rest
+of our party had in the mean time killed a deer.
+
+Toolemak began now to be extremely impatient to return home, his
+principal anxiety arising, I believe, from a childish desire to know
+what I should give him for his trouble; and when, in writing a note to
+Lieutenant Nias, I enumerated the articles I intended to present to him,
+he expressed more delight than I had ever before seen escape him. Among
+these was one of the rifle-guns supplied as presents, together with a
+sufficient quantity of ammunition to last him one summer, after which
+the gun would probably become useless itself for want of cleaning. It
+was astonishing to see the readiness with which these people learned to
+fire at a mark, and the tact they displayed in everything relating to
+this art. Boys from twelve to sixteen years of age would fire a
+fowling-piece, for the first time, with perfect steadiness; and the men,
+with very little practice, would very soon become superior
+marksmen.[005] As, however, the advantage they could derive from the
+use of firearms must be of very short duration, and the danger to any
+careless individuals very considerable, we did not, on any other
+occasion, consider it prudent to furnish them in this manner.
+
+On the morning of the 28th Toolemak had left us for the ships, carrying
+with him our venison to be left there, and having first explained when
+and where the Esquimaux catch the fish with which he had supplied us the
+preceding summer; for it now appeared that they were not found in great
+abundance, or of that magnitude, in the river, but at the mouth of a
+very small stream about two miles lower down the creek on the same side.
+Their method is, to place in the bed of the stream, which is quite
+narrow, and seldom or never so deep as a man's middle, though running
+with great force, two or three separate piles of stones, which serve the
+double purpose of keeping off the force of the stream from themselves,
+and of narrowing the passage through which the fish have to pass in
+coming up from the sea to feed; thus giving the people an opportunity of
+striking them with their spears, and throwing them on the shore without
+much difficulty.
+
+On the afternoon of the 1st of July we shifted our tents overland, and
+down the creek as far as the salmon stream. In performing this short
+journey over bare ground, I was enabled to form some conception of the
+difficulties likely to be encountered by Captain Lyon and his
+companions; for, even with our light load, the dogs could scarcely move
+at times. One of the strongest of eleven fell down in a fit occasioned
+by over exertion; the poor animal lay on his side, foaming at the mouth
+for a minute or two, but soon recovered sufficiently to be able to walk;
+and, being taken out of the sledge, was quite strong again the next day.
+We had scarcely arrived at the stream, when Toolemak's account was very
+satisfactorily confirmed by our finding on the ice near its mouth part
+of two fine salmon, above two feet in length, that had been thrown up by
+the force of the torrent, and a similar one was seen in the water. Our
+provisions being now out, we prepared for returning to the ships the
+following day; and I determined in a short time to send out Mr. Crozier
+with a larger party, well equipped with everything necessary for
+procuring us both fish and deer. We therefore left our tent, spare
+ammunition, and various other articles that would be required here,
+buried under a heap of stones near the stream, and on the morning of the
+2d set out for the ships. The change which one week had made upon the
+ice it is quite impossible to conceive, the whole surface being now
+checkered with large and deep pools of water, where not a symptom of
+thawing had before appeared. This continued the whole way to the ships,
+which we reached at eight P.M., finding Captain Lyon and his party
+returned, after a laborious but unsuccessful endeavour to penetrate
+overland to the westward. On my arrival at the ships I found several
+new Esquimaux on board, who, to the number of twenty, had lately
+arrived from _Toon=o=onee-r=o=ochiuk_, a place situated to the
+westward and northward of Igloolik, and somewhere upon the opposite
+coast of Cockburn Island. This party confirmed the former account
+respecting the two ships that had been forced on shore; and, indeed, as
+an earnest of its truth, one man named _Adloo_, who was said to have
+actually seen them in this state, was a day or two afterward met by our
+people at Arlagnuk, while travelling to the southward, and having on his
+sledge a great deal of wood of the same kind as that before described.
+
+This information having excited considerable interest, Lieutenant
+Hoppner, who had taken great pains to ascertain the facts correctly,
+volunteered his services to accompany some of the Esquimaux, who were
+said to be going northward very shortly, and to obtain every information
+on this and other subjects which might be within the scope of such a
+journey. On the night of the 4th, having heard that a party of the
+Esquimaux intended setting out the following morning, Lieutenant Hoppner
+and his people went out to their tents to be in readiness to accompany
+them. We were surprised to find the next day, that not only Lieutenant
+Hoppner's intended guide, but the whole of the rest of these people, had
+altogether left the island, and, as it afterward proved, permanently for
+the summer. We were now, therefore, for the first time since our arrival
+here, entirely deserted by the natives, only two or three of whom again
+visited the ships during the remainder of our stay. It appears probable,
+indeed, that these wandering people are in the habit of residing at
+their various stations only at particular intervals of time, perhaps
+with the intention of not scaring the walruses and seals too much by a
+very long residence at one time upon the same spot. What made this
+appear still more likely was the present state of their winter
+habitations at Igloolik, which, though offensive enough at about the
+same time the preceding year, were then wholesome and comfortable in
+comparison. Besides quantities of putrid walrus flesh, blubber, and oil,
+carcasses of dogs, and even of human beings recently deceased, were now
+to be seen exposed in their neighbourhood. What remained of the corpse
+of Keim=o=oseuk was of course wholly uncovered; a second, of a
+child, on which the wolves had feasted, was also lying about; and a
+third, of a newly-born infant, was discovered in the middle of a small
+lake by Mr. Richards, who caused them all to be buried under ground.
+
+Our stock of meat for the dogs being nearly expended, and no seahorses
+having yet been seen near the shore, I sent Mr. Ross with a sledge to
+Tern Island on the 13th, in expectation of being supplied by the
+Esquimaux. Mr. Ross returned on the 14th without success, the whole of
+the natives having left the island after plundering the birds' nests, as
+they had done the preceding year.
+
+Finding that our valuable dogs must be now wholly dependant on our own
+exertions in providing meat, a boat from each ship was carried down to
+the neighbourhood of the open water, and shortly afterward two others,
+to endeavour to kill walruses for them. This was the more desirable from
+the probability of the Fury's passing her next winter where no natives
+were resident, and the consequent necessity of laying in our stock for
+that long and dreary season during the present summer. Our people,
+therefore, pitched their tents near the old Esquimaux habitations; and
+thus were four boats constantly employed, whenever the weather would
+permit, for the three succeeding weeks.
+
+On the 16th Lieutenant Hoppner and his party returned to the ships,
+having only been enabled to travel to the south shore of Cockburn
+Island, on account of their guides not yet proceeding any farther. Two
+of the Esquimaux accompanied our travellers back to Igloolik, and, being
+loaded with various useful presents from the ships, returned home the
+following day.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+
+     Extraordinary Disruption of Ice in Quilliam Creek.--Some Appearance
+     of Scurvy among the Seamen and Marines.--Discovery of Gifford
+     River.--Commence cutting the Ice outside the Ships to release them
+     from their Winter-quarters.--Considerations respecting the Return
+     of the Expedition to England.--Unfavourable State of the Ice at the
+     Eastern Entrance of the Strait.--Proceed to the Southward.--Ships
+     beset and drifted up Lyon Inlet.--Decease of Mr. George
+     Fife.--Final Release from the Ice, and Arrival in England.--Remarks
+     upon the practicability of a Northwest Passage.
+
+
+
+Among the various changes which the warmth of the returning summer was
+now producing around us, none was more remarkable than that noticed by
+Captain Lyon in an excursion to Quilliam Creek, and which, in a note
+received from him by the return of the sledges on the 17th, he thus
+describes: "Between the two points forming the entrance of the creek, we
+saw a high wall of ice extending immediately across from land to land,
+and on arriving at it, found that, by some extraordinary convulsion, the
+floe had burst upward, and that immense masses of ice had been thrown in
+every direction. Several blocks, eight or nine feet in thickness, and
+many yards in diameter, were lying on the level solid floe; yet we were
+for some time at a loss to discover whence they had been ejected, till
+at length we found a hole or pool, which appeared so small as to be
+hardly capable of containing the immense fragments near it; yet from
+this place alone must they have been thrown."
+
+Captain Lyon subsequently added, that "the water, which was found to be
+quite fresh, was running rapidly to seaward in this opening; and it
+seemed probable that the vast accumulation from the streams at the head
+of the creek, although at about ten miles distance, had burst a passage,
+and thus ejected the ice. The force employed for this purpose may be
+conceived, when I mention that, of several masses of ice, one in
+particular was above eight feet thick, full forty yards in
+circumference, and lay more than five hundred yards from the pool. No
+traces could be found of the manner in which these bodies had been
+transported, as not a single small fragment was seen lying about, to
+warrant the supposition that they had fallen with a shock. Neither were
+there any marks observable on the smooth uncracked floe to cause a
+suspicion that they had slidden over it, the general appearance of the
+floe at this place being the same as at all other parts of the inlet,
+and bearing no marks of having had any rush of water over it."
+
+The weather was now, at times, extremely sultry, bringing out swarms of
+moschetoes, that soon became very troublesome, even on board the ships.
+A thermometer suspended in the middle of the observatory, and exposed to
+the sun's rays, was observed by Mr. Fisher to stand at 92° at five P.M.
+on the 18th.
+
+On the 19th Captain Lyon returned from Quilliam Creek, bringing with him
+the whole of our party stationed there, the ice being now so broken up
+in that neighbourhood as to render the fishing dangerous without proper
+boats. On this journey, which it took two days to perform, eleven dogs
+drew a weight of two thousand and fifty pounds, of which six hundred and
+forty were salmon, and ninety-five venison, procured by our people. The
+fish had all been caught in the trawl; and treble the quantity might
+easily have been taken with a seine, had we known how wide the mouth of
+the stream was to become. They varied in length from twenty to twenty
+six inches, and one of the largest, when cleaned, weighed eight pounds
+and a half; but their average weight in this state did not exceed two
+pounds and a quarter. The distance of the fishing-place from the ships,
+the dangerous state of the ice, and the soreness of the dogs' feet from
+travelling on the rough, honey-combed ice, prevented our taking any
+farther advantage of this very acceptable change of diet.
+
+Nothing worthy of notice occurred till the 29th, when a patch of ice, a
+mile broad, separated from the outer margin of our barrier and drifted
+away. The canal formed by laying sand on the ice was now quite through
+in most places, showing that the plan would, in this latitude at least,
+always ensure a ship's escape at an earlier season than by the regular
+course of nature, provided it could be carried the whole way down to the
+open water.
+
+I am now under the disagreeable necessity of entering on a subject which
+I had at one time ventured to hope need scarcely occupy any part of this
+narrative: I mean that of the scurvy, some slight but unequivocal
+symptoms of which disease were this day reported to me, by Mr. Edwards,
+to have appeared among four or five of the Fury's men, rendering it
+necessary, for the first time during the voyage, to have recourse to
+antiscorbutic treatment among the seamen and marines.
+
+It will, perhaps, be considered a curious and singular fact in the
+history of sea-scurvy, that during the whole of the preceding part of
+this voyage, none among us but officers were in the slightest degree
+affected by it, a circumstance directly contrary to former experience.
+To whatever causes this might be attributed, it could not, however, but
+be highly gratifying to be thus assured that the various means employed
+to preserve the health of the seamen and marines had proved even beyond
+expectation efficacious.
+
+That a ship's company began to evince symptoms of scurvy after
+twenty-seven months' entire dependance upon the resources contained
+within their ship (an experiment hitherto unknown, perhaps, in the
+annals of navigation, even for one fourth part of that period), could
+scarcely, indeed, be a subject of wonder, though it was at this
+particular time a matter of very sincere regret. From the health enjoyed
+by our people during two successive winters, unassisted as we had been
+by any supply of _fresh_ antiscorbutic plants or other vegetables, I
+had began to indulge a hope that, with a continued attention to their
+comforts, cleanliness, and exercise, the same degree of vigour might,
+humanly speaking, be ensured at least as long as our present liberal
+resources should last. Present appearances, however, seemed to indicate
+differently; for, though our sick-list had scarcely a name upon it, and
+almost every individual was performing his accustomed duty, yet we had
+at length been impressed with the unpleasant conviction that a strong
+predisposition to disease existed among us, and that no very powerful
+exciting cause was wanting to render it more seriously apparent. Such a
+conviction at the present crisis was peculiarly disagreeable; for I
+could not but lament any circumstance tending to weaken the confidence
+in our strength and resources at a time when more than ordinary exertion
+was about to be required at our hands.
+
+The 1st of August had now arrived; and yet, incredible as it may appear,
+the ships were as securely confined in the ice as in the middle of
+winter, except that a pool of water, about twice their own length in
+diameter, was now opened around them. I determined, therefore,
+notwithstanding the apparent hopelessness of sawing our way through four
+or five miles of ice, to begin that laborious process; not, indeed, with
+the hope of cutting a canal sufficiently large to allow the passage of
+the ships to sea, but with a view to weaken it so much as in some
+measure to assist its disruption whenever any swell should set in upon
+its margin. On this and the following day, therefore, all the gear was
+carried down for that purpose, and a large tent pitched for the ships'
+companies to dine in, the distance being too great to allow them to
+return on board to their meals. On the 3d, however, we were saved a
+great deal of unnecessary labour, by the ice opening out at the crack
+before mentioned, so that our sawing might now be commenced within a
+mile of the Fury. After divine service, therefore, all hands were sent
+from both ships to bring back the tent and tools to the point of
+Oongalooyat, and the parties were recalled from the walrus-fishery,
+except a single boat's crew: these also returned on board a few days
+after, the whole number of seahorses killed being eight, and one large
+seal.
+
+On the 4th our sawing work was commenced, with the usual alacrity on the
+part of the officers and men, and three hundred and fifty yards of ice
+were got out before night, its thickness varying from one to four feet,
+but very irregular on account of the numerous pools and holes. An equal
+length was accomplished on the following day, though not without
+excessive fatigue and constant wet to the men, several of whom fell into
+the water by the ice breaking under them.
+
+On the 5th, the register-thermometer, which had been placed in the
+ground in the winter, was taken up, though, to our astonishment, the
+ground above and about it had become nearly as hard and compactly frozen
+as when we dug the hole to put it down. How this came about we were
+quite at a loss to determine; for the earth had been thrown in quite
+loosely, whereas its present consolidated state implied its having been
+thoroughly thawed and frozen again. It occupied two men ten days to
+extricate it, which, as they approached the thermometer, was done by a
+chisel and mallet, to avoid injury by jarring. This, however, was not
+sufficient to prevent mischief, the instrument being so identified with
+the frozen earth as to render it impossible to strike the ground near it
+without communicating the shock to the tubes, two of which were in
+consequence found to be broken. Thus ended our experiment for
+ascertaining the temperature of the earth during the winter; an
+experiment which it would seem, from this attempt, scarcely practicable
+to make in any satisfactory manner without some apparatus constructed
+expressly for the purpose.
+
+On the 6th the work was continued as before, and about four hundred
+yards of ice were sawn through and floated out, leaving now a broad
+canal, eleven hundred yards in length, leading from the open water
+towards that formed by the gravelled space.
+
+When the lateness of the season to which the ships had now been detained
+in the ice is considered, with reference to the probability of the
+Fury's effecting anything of importance during the short remainder of
+the present summer, it will not be wondered at that, coupling this
+consideration with that of the health of my officers and men, I began to
+entertain doubts whether it would still be prudent to adopt the intended
+measure of remaining out in the Fury as a single ship; whether, in
+short, under existing circumstances, the probable evil did not far
+outweigh the possible good. In order to assist my own judgment on this
+occasion upon one of the most material points, I requested the medical
+officers of the Fury to furnish me with their opinions "as to the
+probable effect that a third winter passed in these regions would
+produce on the health of the officers, seamen, and marines of that ship,
+taking into consideration every circumstance connected with our
+situation." Their answer was decidedly adverse to remaining; and it was
+fortified with such good reasons, connected with the health of the
+officers and crews, as scarcely to leave me at liberty to adopt any
+other course than that of returning to England with both vessels.
+
+Enclosing to Captain Lyon the replies of the medical gentlemen, I now
+also requested his opinion whether, under existing circumstances, he
+still considered it expedient to adopt the measure originally intended,
+with respect to the separation of the two ships. I had scarcely
+despatched a letter to this effect, when, at 10 A.M. on the 8th, the ice
+about the Fury began to move, the pools breaking up, and the gravelled
+canal soon entirely closing. A breeze springing up from the northward at
+this time, all sail was made upon the ship, and the ice gradually
+driving out as it detached itself from the shore, the Fury got into open
+water about one P.M. The Hecla, however, still remained in the middle of
+her winter's floe, which, though it moved a little with the rest at
+first, did not come out of the bay. In the course of the afternoon,
+finding her still stationary, I determined to occupy the time in
+stretching over to the northward, for the purpose of examining the state
+of the fixed ice at the eastern mouth of the strait; and, arriving at
+its margin by ten P.M., found it attached to both shores from the
+northeastern part of Neerlo-naktoo across to Murray Maxwell Inlet. It
+was the general opinion that this ice was in a more solid state than at
+the same time and place the preceding year, but its situation did not, I
+believe, differ half a mile from what it had then been. As the sun went
+down nearly in the direction of the strait, we obtained from the
+masthead a distinct and extensive view in that quarter, and it is
+impossible to conceive a more hopeless prospect than this now presented.
+One vast expanse of level solid ice occupied the whole extent of sea
+visible to the westward, and the eye wearied itself in vain to discover
+a single break upon its surface.
+
+Having finished this examination, which at once destroyed every hope I
+had never ceased to indulge of a passage through the strait, we returned
+towards Igloolik to rejoin the Hecla. It was not, however, till the
+morning of the 9th that we observed her to be moving out of the bay,
+when at length (for the first time, perhaps, that such an event ever
+occurred) she drove to sea in the middle of the floe. Thus at the mercy
+of the ice, she was carried over the shoals off the southeast point of
+Igloolik in six and a half fathoms, but was then fortunately drifted
+into deeper water. The swell on the outside was all that was wanting to
+break up her icy prison, which, separating at seven A.M., finally
+released her from confinement.
+
+Having soon afterward received Captain Lyon's answer to my
+communication, it was necessary for me to come to a final determination
+on the subject therein alluded to. For various reasons, he advised that
+the Fury and Hecla should return to England together, as soon as such
+arrangements respecting the removal of stores and provisions, as I might
+judge proper to make, should be completed.
+
+Under such circumstances, to which may be added the uncertainty of the
+Hecla's liberation from the ice to the southward before the close of the
+season, I no longer considered it prudent or justifiable, upon the
+slender chance of eventual success now before us, to risk the safety of
+the officers and men committed to my charge, and whom it was now my
+first wish to reconduct in good health to their country and their
+friends. Having communicated my intentions to the officers and ships'
+companies, I directed several additions to be made to their ordinary
+allowance of provisions, particularly in the various antiscorbutics,
+which had hitherto been reserved for cases of emergency; and then
+beating up to our winter station, which I named Turton Bay, we anchored
+there in the afternoon in ten fathoms, and immediately commenced our
+preparations for lightening the Fury. Seven months' provisions, a bower
+anchor, and a few other stores, were received by the Hecla, some of her
+water, before filled as ballast, being started to make room for them;
+and such other arrangements made as circumstances would permit for
+improving the stowage of the Fury's hold. The bay was now entirely clear
+of ice in every part; and so changed was its appearance in the course of
+the last four-and-twenty hours, that it was scarcely possible to believe
+it the same place that we had been accustomed daily to look upon for the
+ten preceding months.
+
+The conveyance and stowage of the stores had scarcely been completed,
+when some loose ice drifting into the bay with the tide on the night of
+the 10th, obliged us hastily to get under way and stand out. On the
+following morning I ran across to the main land in the Fury, for the
+purpose of erecting, in compliance with my instructions, a flagstaff
+fifty-six feet in height, having at its top a ball, made of iron hoops
+and canvass, ten feet in diameter, and a cylinder buried near its foot,
+containing a parchment with some account of our visit to this place. In
+the mean time, I requested Captain Lyon to stand over to the point of
+Igloolik, where our walruses had been landed, and to bring off these, as
+well as our boats and tents remaining there. The ice soon after coming
+in upon the point, it was not without risk of the Hecla's being
+dangerously beset that Captain Lyon succeeded in bringing off everything
+but one boat. This was, indeed, no great loss to us, though a great
+acquisition to the Esquimaux; for, being almost worn out, I had intended
+to break her up previously to leaving the ice. Besides this, we
+purposely left our sledges, and a quantity of wood in pieces of a
+convenient size for bows, spears, and paddles, distributing them about
+in several places, that one or two individuals might not make a prize of
+the whole.
+
+The Hecla rejoining us on the morning of the 12th, we stood out to the
+eastward, and finally took our departure from Igloolik. In the course of
+the night the favourable breeze failed us, and on the morning of the
+14th was succeeded by a southerly wind, the ships being close to another
+island called Ooglit, about twelve leagues to the S.S.W. of the others.
+We were here immediately visited by our old acquaintance the Esquimaux,
+several of whom came off in their canoes in the course of the morning,
+as if determined to loose no opportunity of profiting by us. Among these
+was our worthy old friend Nannow, to whom everybody was glad to give
+something; and, indeed, they all received as many presents as their
+canoes could safely carry or tow on shore. Their tents, nine in number
+were pitched on the main land, a little to the northward of Ooglit, at a
+station they call _Ag-wis-se-=o-wik_, of which we had often heard
+them speak at Igloolik. They now also pointed out to us Amitioke, at the
+distance of four or five leagues to the southward and westward, which
+proved to be the same piece of low land that we had taken for it in
+first coming up this coast. The Esquimaux told us that a number of their
+younger men were inland in pursuit of deer, and that the rest had
+abundant supplies of walrus, which animals we saw in considerable
+numbers about this place.
+
+We were now for some days all but beset in this neighbourhood, calms or
+light southerly and easterly breezes constantly prevailing. During this
+time the main body of ice remained, in most parts, close to the shore,
+leaving us only a "hole" of water to work about in, and much nearer to
+the land than on this shoal and shelving coast was altogether safe for
+the ships. Notwithstanding this, however, we had soon occasion to
+observe that they not only kept their ground, but even drew to the
+southward, owing, no doubt, to the current before found to set in that
+direction along the coast.
+
+The ice remained close the whole of the 26th; but we continued, as
+usual, to drift generally to the southward, and the next morning, being
+off Owlitteeweek, were enabled to cast off and make sail, the ice being
+rather more open than before. Being favoured by a commanding northerly
+breeze, we ran a considerable distance to the southward, having,
+however, only just room to sail between the points of the closely packed
+ice and a flat, dangerous shore. Without escaping for a moment, from our
+confined situation, and almost without perceiving any motion of the
+masses of ice among themselves, we had, at noon on the 30th, drifted
+down within a mile of a small island lying near the northeast point of
+Winter Island. On the 31st the tide took us through between these, the
+breadth of the passage being three quarters of a mile, in no less than
+sixteen fathoms water. We then passed within a dangerous reef of rocks,
+lying a full mile from the shore, and having numerous heavy masses of
+grounded ice upon it. After clearing this in a good depth of water, we
+were, by the evening, carried along shore within a mile of Cape Fisher.
+
+Thus had we, in a most singular manner, once more arrived at our old
+winter-quarters, with scarcely a single successful exertion on our parts
+towards effecting that object. The distance from Ooglit to our present
+station was about one hundred and sixty miles along the coast. Of this
+we had never _sailed_ above forty, the rest of the distance having
+been accomplished, while we were immoveably beset, by mere drifting. The
+interval thus employed having been barely eight days, gives an average
+drift to the southward of above fifteen miles per day.
+
+In the afternoon of the 6th I was much pained at being informed by
+telegraph from the Hecla, that Mr. Fife, Greenland master of that ship,
+had just expired, an event which for some days past there had been but
+too much reason to apprehend; the scurvy having within the last three
+weeks continued to increase considerably upon him. It is proper for me,
+however, both in justice to the medical officers under whose skilful and
+humane care he was placed, and to the means with which we were in this
+way so liberally supplied, to state, that during a part of that time Mr.
+Fife had taken so great a dislike to the various antiscorbutics which
+were administered to him, that he could seldom be induced to use any of
+them. The disease, in consequence, reduced him to a state of extreme
+debility, which at length carried him off almost without pain. The Hecla
+being at the time closely beset, and in a situation of great danger
+among the shoals off Winter Island, Captain Lyon caused the remains of
+the deceased to be committed to the sea with all the solemnity which
+circumstances would permit.
+
+In the night of the 6th, the ships, which had before nearly closed each
+other, were again separated to the distance of several miles, though no
+motion was perceptible in the masses of ice about them. On the evening
+of the 11th, however, the wind at length began to freshen from the
+northwest, when the ice immediately commenced driving down the inlet at
+the rate of a mile an hour, carrying the Fury with it, and within half a
+mile of the rocks, the whole way down to Cape Martineau, but keeping
+her in deep water. In the mean time the Hecla had been swept into much
+more dangerous situations, passing along the east and south sides of
+Winter Island; and, after driving nearly up to Five-hawser Bay, being
+carried near some dangerous shoals about Cape Edwards, where Captain
+Lyon expected every other tide that she would take the ground.
+
+On the 15th, when the ships had closed each other within a mile, we
+could see the clear water from the masthead, and the Hecla could now
+have been easily extricated. Such, however, are the sudden changes that
+take place in this precarious navigation, that not long afterward the
+Fury was quite at liberty to sail out of the ice, while the Hecla was
+now, in her turn, so immoveably fast set, and even cemented between
+several very heavy masses, that no power that could be applied was
+sufficient to move her an inch. In this situation she remained all the
+16th, without our being able to render her any assistance; and the frost
+being now rather severe at night, we began to consider it not improbable
+that we might yet be detained for another winter. We were perhaps,
+indeed, indebted for our escape to a strong westerly breeze, which blew
+for several hours on the 17th, when, the ice being sufficiently close to
+allow our men to walk to the assistance of the Hecla, we succeeded,
+after seven hours' hard labour, in forcing her into clear water, when
+all sail was made to the eastward, and our course shaped for the Trinity
+Islands in a perfectly open sea.
+
+We thus finally made our escape from the ice after having been almost
+immoveably beset in it for twenty-four days out of the last twenty-six,
+in the course of which time the ships had been taken over no less than
+one hundred and forty leagues of ground, generally very close to the
+shore, and always unable to do anything towards effecting their escape
+from danger.
+
+We made the Trinity Islands on the 18th, and ran down Hudson's Strait
+with a favourable breeze, reaching the Orkneys on the morning of Oct.
+9th. It can scarcely, perhaps, be imagined by those who have not been
+similarly situated, with what eager interest one or two vessels were
+this day descried by us, being the first trace of civilized man that we
+had seen for the space of seven-and-twenty months. The breeze increasing
+to a fresh gale from the southward in the course of the night, with a
+heavy sea from the same quarter, rendering it impossible for us to make
+any progress in that direction, I determined to put into Lerwick in the
+Shetland Islands, to procure refreshments, and await a change in our
+favour. We accordingly bore up for that harbour early on the morning of
+the 10th, and at thirty minutes past ten A.M. anchored there, where we
+were immediately visited by a great number of the inhabitants, anxious
+to greet us on our return to our native country.
+
+I feel it utterly impossible adequately to express, the kindness and
+attention we received for the three or four days that we were detained
+in Bressay Sound by a continuance of unfavourable winds. On the first
+information of our arrival the bells of Lerwick were set ringing, the
+inhabitants flocked from every part of the country to express their joy
+at our unexpected return, and the town was at night illuminated, as if
+each individual had a brother or a son among us.
+
+On the 13th, a breeze springing up from the northward, we took leave of
+our kind and hospitable friends, deeply sensible of the cordial and
+affectionate reception we had experienced; and, being still favoured by
+the wind, were abreast of Buchaness the following evening. On the 16th,
+being off Whitby, I went on shore there, and, after receiving the
+cordial greetings of a great number of the worthy inhabitants of Whitby,
+who had assembled to meet us on landing, set off for London, and arrived
+at the Admiralty on the morning of the 18th.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THIRD VOYAGE
+
+FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A NORTHWEST PASSAGE.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+Notwithstanding the want of success of the late expedition to the Polar
+Seas, it was resolved to make another attempt to effect a passage by
+sea, between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. The chief alterations in
+the equipment of the present expedition consisted in the placing of
+Sylvester's warming stove in the very bottom of the ship's hold, in
+substituting a small quantity of salt beef for a part of the pork, and
+in furnishing a much larger supply of newly corned beef. Preserved
+carrots and parsnips, salmon, cream, pickles of onions, beet-root,
+cabbage, and, to make the most of our stowage, _split_ peas, instead
+of whole ones, were supplied. A small quantity of beef pemmican, made by
+pounding the meat with a certain portion of fat, as described by Captain
+Franklin, was also furnished.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+
+     Passage to the Whale-fish Islands, and Removal of Stores from the
+     Transport.--Enter the Ice in Baffin's Bay.--Difficulties of
+     Penetrating to the Westward.--Quit the Ice in Baffin's
+     Bay.--Remarks on the Obstructions encountered by the Ships, and on
+     the Severity of the Season.
+
+
+
+The equipment of the Hecla and Fury, and the loading of the William
+Harris transport, being completed, we began to move down the river from
+Deptford on the 8th of May, 1824, and on the 10th, by the assistance of
+the steamboat, the three ships had reached Northfleet, where they
+received their powder and their ordnance stores.
+
+Early on the morning of the 3d of July, the whole of our stores being
+removed, and Lieutenant Pritchard having received his orders, together
+with our despatches and letters for England, the William Harris weighed
+with a light wind from the northward, and was towed out to sea by our
+boats.
+
+Light northerly winds, together with the dull sailing of our now
+deeply-laden ships, prevented our making much progress for several days,
+and kept us in the neighbourhood of numerous icebergs, which it is
+dangerous to approach when there is any swell. We counted from the deck,
+at one time, no less than one hundred and three of these immense bodies,
+some of them from one to two hundred feet in height above the sea; and
+it was necessary, in one or two instances, to tow the ships clear of
+them with the boats.
+
+From this time, indeed, the obstructions from the quantity, magnitude,
+and closeness of the ice were such as to keep our people almost
+constantly employed in heaving, warping, or sawing through it; and yet
+with so little success, that, at the close of the month of July, we had
+only penetrated seventy miles to the westward, or the longitude of about
+62° 10'.
+
+_Sept_. 9th.--I shall, doubtless, be readily excused for not having
+entered in this journal a detailed narrative of the obstacles we met
+with, and of the unwearied exertions of the officers and men to overcome
+them, during the tedious eight weeks employed in crossing this barrier.
+
+The constant besetment of the ships, and our daily observations for
+latitude and longitude, afforded a favourable opportunity for
+ascertaining precisely the set of any currents by which the whole body
+of ice might be actuated. By attending very carefully to all the
+circumstances, it was evident that a daily set to the southward obtained
+when the wind was northerly, differing in amount from two or three, to
+eight or ten miles per day, according to the strength of the breeze; but
+a northerly current was equally apparent, and fully to the same amount,
+whenever the wind blew from the southward. A circumstance more
+remarkable than these, however, forced itself strongly upon my notice at
+this time, which was, that a _westerly_ set was very frequently
+apparent, even against a fresh breeze blowing from that quarter. I
+mention the circumstance in this place, because I may hereafter have to
+offer a remark or two on this fact, in connexion with some others of a
+similar nature noticed elsewhere.
+
+With respect to the dimensions of the ice through which we had now
+scrambled our way, principally by warping and towing, a distance of
+between three and four hundred miles, I remarked that it for the most
+part increased, as well in the thickness as the extent of the floes, as
+we advanced westward about the parallel of 71°. During our subsequent
+progress to the north, we also met with some of enormous dimensions,
+several of the floes, to which we applied our hawsers and the power of
+the improved capstan, being at their margin more than twenty feet above
+the level of the sea; and over some of these we could not see from the
+masthead. Upon the whole, however, the magnitude of the ice became
+somewhat less towards the northwest, and within thirty miles of that
+margin the masses were comparatively small, and their thickness much
+diminished. Bergs were in sight during the whole passage, but they were
+more numerous towards the middle of the "pack," and rather the most so
+to the southward.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+
+     Enter Sir James Lancaster's Sound.--Land at Cape Warrender.--Meet
+     with young Ice.--Ships beset and carried near the Shore.--Driven
+     back to Navy-board Inlet.--Run to the Westward, and enter Prince
+     Regent's Inlet.--Arrival at Port Bowen.
+
+
+
+All our past obstacles were in a moment forgotten when we once more saw
+an open sea before us; but it must be confessed that it was not so easy
+to forget that the middle of September was already near at hand,
+without having brought us even to the entrance of Sir James Lancaster's
+Sound. That not a moment might be lost, however, in pushing to the
+westward, a press of canvass was crowded, and, being happily favoured
+with an easterly breeze, on the morning of Sept. 10th we caught a
+glimpse of the high bold land on the north side of the magnificent inlet
+up which our course was once more to be directed. From the time of our
+leaving the main body of ice, we met with none of any kind, and the
+entrance to the Sound was, as usual, entirely free from it, except here
+and there a berg, floating about in that solitary grandeur, of which
+these enormous masses, when occurring in the midst of an extensive sea,
+are calculated to convey so sublime an idea.
+
+On the morning of the 12th we were once more favoured with a breeze from
+the eastward, but so light and unsteady that our progress was
+vexatiously slow; and on the 13th, when within seven leagues of Cape
+York, we had the mortification to perceive the sea ahead of us covered
+with young ice, the thermometer having, for two days past, ranged only
+from 18° to 20°.
+
+The next breeze sprung up from the westward, drawing also from the
+southward, at times, out of Prince Regent's Inlet, and for three days we
+were struggling with the young ice to little or no purpose, now and then
+gaining half a mile of ground to windward in a little "hole" of open
+water, then losing as much by the necessity of bearing up or wearing
+(for the ice was too strong to allow us to tack), sallying from morning
+to night with all hands, and with the watch at night, two boats
+constantly under the bows; and, after all, rather losing ground than
+otherwise, while the young ice was every hour increasing in thickness.
+
+Towards sunset on the 17th we became more and more hampered, and were
+eventually beset during the night. The sea was covered with ice between
+us and the shore, all of this year's formation, but now of considerable
+thickness and formidable appearance. The wind continuing strong, the
+whole body was constantly pressed in upon the land, bearing the ships
+along with it, and doubling one sheet over another, sometimes to a
+hundred thicknesses. We quickly shoaled the water from seventy to forty
+fathoms, the latter depth occurring about a mile from the beach; and
+after this we drifted but little, the ice being blocked up between the
+point and a high perpendicular berg lying aground off it.
+
+Under such circumstances, it evidently became expedient to endeavour, by
+sawing, to get the ships as close in-shore as possible, so as to secure
+them either to grounded ice, or by anchoring within the shelter of a bay
+at no great distance inside of us; for it now seemed not unlikely that
+winter was about to put a premature stop to all farther operations at
+sea for this season. At all events, it was necessary to consult the
+immediate safety of the ships, and to keep them from being drifted back
+to the eastward. I therefore gave orders for endeavouring to get the
+ships in towards the bay, by cutting through what level floes still
+remained. So strong had been the pressure while the ice was forcing in
+upon us, that on the 20th, after liberating the Hecla on one side, she
+was as firmly cemented to it on the other, as after a winter's
+formation; and we could only clear her by heavy and repeated "sallying."
+After cutting in two or three hundred yards, while the people were at
+dinner on the 21st, our canal closed by the external pressure coming
+upon the parts which we had weakened, and in a few minutes the whole was
+once more in motion, or, as the seamen not inaptly expressed it,
+"alive," mass doubling under mass, and raising those which were
+uppermost to a considerable height. The ice thus pressed together was
+now about ten feet in thickness in some places, and on an average not
+less than four or five, so that, while thus forced in upon a ship,
+although soft in itself, it caused her to tremble exceedingly; a
+sensation, indeed, commonly experienced in forcing through young ice of
+considerable thickness. We were now once more obliged to be quiet
+spectators of what was going on around us, having, with extreme
+difficulty, succeeded in saving most of our tools that were lying on the
+ice when the squeezing suddenly began.
+
+A sudden motion of the ice, on the morning of the 22d, occasioned by a
+change of the wind to the S.E., threatened to carry us directly off the
+land. It was now, more than ever, desirable to hold on, as this breeze
+was likely to clear the shore, and, at the same time, to give us a run
+to the westward. Hawsers were therefore run out to the land-ice,
+composed of some heavy masses, almost on the beach. With the Hecla this
+succeeded, but the Fury being much farther from the shore, soon began to
+move out with the whole body of ice, which, carrying her close to the
+large berg off the point, swept her round the latter, where, after great
+exertion, Captain Hoppner succeeded in getting clear, and then made sail
+to beat back to us. In the mean time the strain put upon the Hecla's
+hawsers being too great for them, they snapped one after another, and a
+bower-anchor was let go as a last resource. It was one of Hawkins's,
+with the double fluke, and immediately brought up, not merely the ship,
+but a large floe of young ice which had just broken our stream-cable.
+All hands were sent upon the floe to cut it up ahead, and the whole
+operation was a novel, and, at times, a fearful one; for the ice, being
+weakened by the cutting, would suddenly gather fresh way astern,
+carrying men and tools with it, while the chain cable continued to
+plough through it in a manner which gave one the idea of something
+alive, and continually renewing its attacks. The anchor held
+surprisingly; and after this tremendous strain had been put upon it for
+above an hour, we had fairly cut the floe in two, and the ship was
+riding in clear water about half a mile from the shore.
+
+I was in hopes we should make some progress, for a large channel of
+clear water was left open in-shore; a breeze blew off the land, and the
+temperature of the atmosphere had again risen considerably. We had not
+sailed five miles, however, when a westerly wind took us aback, and a
+most dangerous swell set directly upon the shore, obliging me
+immediately to stand off the land; and the Fury being still to the
+eastward of the point, I ran round it in order to rejoin her before
+sunset.
+
+After midnight on the 27th the wind began to moderate, and, by degrees,
+also drew more to the southward than before. At daylight, therefore, we
+found ourselves seven or eight miles from the land; but no ice was in
+sight, except the "sludge," of honey-like consistence, with which almost
+the whole sea was covered. A strong blink, extending along the eastern
+horizon, pointed out the position of the main body of ice, which was
+farther distant from the eastern shore of the inlet than I ever saw it.
+Being assisted by a fine working breeze, which, at the same time,
+prevented the formation of any more ice to obstruct us, we made
+considerable progress along the land, and at noon were nearly abreast of
+Jackson Inlet, which we now saw to be considerably larger than our
+distant view of it on the former voyage had led us to suppose. A few
+more tacks brought us to the entrance of Port Bowen, which, for two or
+three days past, I had determined to make our wintering-place, if, as
+there was but little reason to expect, we should be so fortunate as to
+push the ships thus far. Beating up, therefore, to Port Bowen, we found
+it filled with "old" and "hummocky" ice, attached to the shores on both
+sides, as low down as about three-quarters of a mile below Stony Island.
+Here we made fast in sixty-two fathoms water, running our hawsers far in
+upon the ice, in case of its breaking off at the margin.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+
+     Winter Arrangements.--Improvements in Warming and Ventilating the
+     Ships.--Masquerades adopted as an Amusement to the
+     Men.--Establishment of Schools.--Astronomical
+     Observations.--Meteorological Phenomena.
+
+
+
+_Oct_.--Our present winter arrangements so closely resembled, in
+general, those before adopted, that a fresh description of them would
+prove little more than a repetition of that already contained in the
+narratives of our former voyages.
+
+To those who read, as well as to those who describe, the account of a
+winter passed in these regions can no longer be expected to afford the
+interest of novelty it once possessed; more especially in a station
+already delineated with tolerable geographical precision on our maps,
+and thus, as it were, brought near to our firesides at home.
+Independently, indeed, of this circumstance, it is hard to conceive any
+one thing more like another than two winters passed in the higher
+latitudes of the Polar Regions, except when variety happens to be
+afforded by intercourse with some other branch of "the whole family of
+man." Winter after winter, nature here assumes an aspect so much alike,
+that cursory observation can scarcely detect a single feature of
+variety. The winter of more temperate climates, and even in some of no
+slight severity, is occasionally diversified by a thaw, which at once
+gives variety and comparative cheerfulness to the prospect. But here,
+when once the earth is covered, all is dreary, monotonous whiteness; not
+merely for days or weeks, but for more than half a year together.
+Whichever way the eye is turned, it meets a picture calculated to
+impress upon the mind an idea of inanimate stillness, of that motionless
+torpor with which our feelings have nothing congenial; of anything, in
+short, but life. In the very silence there is a deadness with which a
+human spectator appears _out of keeping_. The presence of man seems an
+intrusion on the dreary solitude of this wintry desert, which even its
+native animals have for a while forsaken.
+
+I am persuaded, therefore, that I shall be excused in sparing the
+dulness of another winter's diary, and confining myself exclusively to
+those facts which appear to possess any scientific interest, to the few
+incidents which _did_ diversify our confinement, and to such remarks as
+may contribute to the health and comfort of any future sojourners in
+these dreary regions.
+
+It may well be supposed that, in this climate, the principal desideratum
+which art is called upon to furnish for the promotion of health, is
+warmth, as well in the external air as in the inhabited apartments.
+Exposure to a cold atmosphere, _when the body is well clothed_, produces
+no bad effect whatever beyond a frostbitten cheek, nose, or finger. As
+for any injury to healthy lungs from the breathing of cold air, or from
+sudden changes from this into a warm atmosphere, or _vice versa_, it may
+with much confidence be asserted that, with due attention to external
+clothing, there is nothing in this respect to be apprehended. This
+inference, at least, would appear legitimate, from the fact that our
+crews, consisting of one hundred and twenty persons, have for four
+winters been constantly undergoing, for months together, a change of
+from eighty to a hundred degrees of temperature, in the space of time
+required for opening two doors (perhaps less than half a minute),
+without incurring any pulmonary complaints at all.
+
+In speaking of the external clothing sufficient for health in this
+climate, it must be confessed that, in severe exposure, quite a _load_
+of woollen clothes, even of the best quality, is insufficient to retain
+a comfortable degree of warmth; a strong breeze carrying it off so
+rapidly, that the sensation is that of the cold piercing through the
+body. A jacket made very long, like those called by seamen
+"pea-jackets," and lined with fur throughout, would be more effectual
+than twice the weight of woollen clothes, and is, indeed, almost
+weather-proof. For the prevention of lumbago, to which our seamen are
+especially liable, from their well-known habit of leaving their loins
+imperfectly clothed, every man should be strictly obliged to wear, under
+his outer clothes, a canvass belt a foot broad, lined with flannel, and
+having straps to go over the shoulder.[006]
+
+It is certain, however, that no precautions in clothing are sufficient
+to maintain health during a Polar winter, without a due degree of warmth
+in the apartments we inhabit. Most persons are apt to associate with the
+idea of warmth, something like the comfort derived from a good fire on a
+winter's evening at home; but in these regions the case is
+inconceivably different: here it is not simple comfort, but health, and,
+therefore, ultimately life, that depends upon it. The want of a constant
+supply of warmth is here immediately followed by a condensation of all
+the moisture, whether from the breath, victuals, or other sources, into
+abundant drops of water, very rapidly forming on all the coldest parts
+of the deck. A still lower temperature modifies, and perhaps improves,
+the annoyance by converting it into ice, which again an occasional
+increase of warmth dissolves into water. Nor is this the amount of the
+evil, though it is the only visible part of it; for not only is a moist
+atmosphere thus incessantly kept up, but it is rendered stagnant also by
+the want of that ventilation which warmth alone can furnish. With an
+apartment in this state, the men's clothes and bedding are continually
+in a moist and unwholesome condition, generating a deleterious air,
+which there is no circulation to carry off; and, whenever these
+circumstances combine for any length of time together, so surely may the
+scurvy, to say nothing of other diseases, be confidently expected to
+exhibit itself.
+
+Every attention was, as usual, paid to the occupation and diversion of
+the men's minds, as well as to the regularity of their bodily exercise.
+Our former amusements being almost worn threadbare, it required some
+ingenuity to devise any plan that should possess the charm of novelty to
+recommend it. This purpose was completely answered by a proposal of
+Captain Hoppner, to attempt a _masquerade_, in which officers and men
+should alike take a part, but which, without imposing any restraint
+whatever, would leave every one to his own choice whether to join in
+this diversion or not. It is impossible that any idea could have proved
+more happy, or more exactly suited to our situation. Admirably dressed
+characters of various descriptions readily took their parts, and many of
+these were supported with a degree of spirit and genuine humour which
+would not have disgraced a more refined assembly; while the latter might
+not have disdained, and would not have been disgraced by, copying the
+good order, decorum, and inoffensive cheerfulness which our humble
+masquerade presented. It does especial credit to the dispositions and
+good sense of our men, that, though all the officers entered fully into
+the spirit of these amusements, which took place once a month, no
+instance occurred of anything that could interfere with the regular
+discipline, or at all weaken the respect of the men towards their
+superiors. Ours were masquerades without licentiousness; carnivals
+without excess.
+
+But an occupation not less assiduously pursued, and of infinitely more
+eventual benefit, was furnished by the re-establishment of our schools,
+under the voluntary superintendence of my friend Mr. Hooper in the
+Hecla, and of Mr. Mogg in the Fury. By the judicious zeal of Mr. Hooper,
+the Hecla's school was made subservient, not merely to the improvement
+of the men in reading and writing (in which, however, their progress was
+surprisingly great), but also to the cultivation of that religious
+feeling which so essentially improves the character of a seaman, by
+furnishing the highest motives for increased attention to every other
+duty. Nor was the benefit confined to the eighteen or twenty
+individuals whose want of scholarship brought them to the school-table,
+but extended itself to the rest of the ship's company, making the whole
+lower-deck such a scene of quiet rational occupation as I never before
+saw on board a ship. And I do not speak lightly when I express my
+thorough persuasion, that to the moral effects thus produced upon the
+minds of the men, were owing, in a very high degree, the constant yet
+sober cheerfulness, the uninterrupted good order, and even, in some
+measure, the extraordinary state of health which prevailed among us
+during this winter.
+
+The extreme facility with which sounds are heard at a considerable
+distance in severely cold weather, has often been a subject of remark;
+but a circumstance occurred at Port Bowen which deserves to be noticed,
+as affording a sort of measure of this facility, or, at least, conveying
+to others some definite idea of the fact. Lieutenant Foster having
+occasion to send a man from the observatory to the opposite shore of the
+harbour, a measured distance of 6696 feet, or about one statute mile and
+two tenths, in order to fix a meridian mark, had placed a second person
+half way between, to repeat his directions; but he found, on trial, that
+this precaution was unnecessary, as he could, without difficulty, keep
+up a conversation with the man at the distant station. The thermometer
+was at this time-18°, the barometer 30.14 inches, and the weather nearly
+calm, and quite clear and serene.
+
+About one o'clock on the morning of the 23d February, the Aurora
+appeared over the hills in a south direction, presenting a brilliant
+mass of light. The rolling motion of the light laterally was very
+striking, as well as the increase of its intensity thus occasioned. The
+light occupied horizontally about a point of the compass, and extended
+in height scarcely a degree above the land, which seemed, however, to
+conceal from us a part of the phenomenon. It was always evident enough
+that the most attenuated light of the Aurora sensibly dimmed the stars,
+like a thin veil drawn over them. We frequently listened for any sound
+proceeding from this phenomenon, but never heard any. Our variation
+needles, which were extremely light, suspended in the most delicate
+manner, and, from the weak directive energy, susceptible of being acted
+upon by a very slight disturbing force, were never, in a single
+instance, sensibly affected by the Aurora, which could scarcely fail to
+have been observed at some time or other, had any such disturbance taken
+place, the needles being visited every hour for several months, and
+oftener when anything occurred to make it desirable.
+
+The meteors called falling stars were much more frequent during this
+winter than we ever before saw them, and particularly during the month
+of December.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+
+     Re-equipment of the Ships.--Several Journeys undertaken.--Open
+     Water in the Offing.--Commence sawing a Canal to liberate the
+     Ships.--Disruption of the Ice.--Departure from Port Bowen.
+
+
+
+The height of the land about Port Bowen deprived us longer than usual of
+the sun's presence above our horizon. Some of our gentlemen, indeed, who
+ascended a high hill for the purpose, caught a glimpse of him on the 2d
+of February; on the 15th it became visible at the observatory, but at
+the ships not till the 22d, after an absence of one hundred and
+twenty-one days. It is very long after the sun's reappearance in these
+regions, however, that the effect of his rays, as to warmth, becomes
+perceptible; week passes after week, with scarcely any rise in the
+thermometer except for an hour or two during the day; and it is at this
+period more than any other, perhaps, that the lengthened duration of a
+Polar winter's cold is most wearisome, and creates the most impatience.
+Towards the third week in March, thin flakes of snow lying upon black
+painted wood or metal, and exposed to the sun's direct rays in a
+sheltered situation, readily melted. In the second week of April any
+very light covering of sand or ashes upon the snow close to the ships
+might be observed to make its way downward into holes; but a coat of
+sand laid upon the unsheltered ice, to the distance of about two thirds
+of a mile, for dissolving a canal to hasten our liberation, produced no
+such sensible effect till the beginning of May. Even then the
+dissolution was very trifling till about the first week in June, when
+pools of water began to make their appearance, and not long after this a
+small boat would have floated down it. On shore the effect is, in
+general, still more tardy, though some deception is there occasioned by
+the dissolution of the snow next the ground, while its upper surface is
+to all appearance undergoing little or no change. Thus a greater
+alteration is sometimes produced in the aspect of the land by a single
+warm day in an advanced part of the season, than in many weeks
+preceding, in consequence of the last crust of snow being dissolved,
+leaving the ground at length entirely bare. We could now perceive the
+snow beginning to leave the stones from day to day, as early as the last
+week in April. Towards the end of May a great deal of snow was dissolved
+daily; but, owing to the porous nature of the ground, which absorbed it
+as fast as it was formed, it was not easy to procure water for drinking
+on shore, even as late as the 10th of June. In the ravines, however, it
+could be heard trickling under stones before that time; and about the
+18th, many considerable streams were formed, and constantly running both
+night and day. After this the thawing proceeded at an inconceivably
+rapid rate, the whole surface of the floes being covered with large
+pools of water rapidly increasing in size and depth.
+
+The animals seen at Port Bowen may now be briefly noticed. The principal
+of these seen during the winter were bears, of which we killed twelve
+from October to June, being more than during all the other voyages
+taken together; and several others were seen. One of these animals was
+near proving fatal to a seaman of the Fury, who, having straggled from
+his companions, when at the top of a high hill saw a large bear coming
+towards him. Being unarmed, he prudently made off, taking off his boots
+to enable him to run the faster, but not so prudently precipitated
+himself over an almost perpendicular cliff, down which he was said to
+have rolled or fallen several hundred feet; here he was met by some of
+the people in so lacerated a condition as to be in a very dangerous
+state for some time after.
+
+A she-bear, killed in the open water on our first arrival at Port Bowen,
+afforded a striking instance of maternal affection in her anxiety to
+save her two cubs. She might herself easily have escaped the boat, but
+would not forsake her young, which she was actually "towing" off, by
+allowing them to rest on her back, when the boat came near them. A
+second similar instance occurred in the spring, when two cubs having got
+down into a large crack in the ice, their mother placed herself before
+them, so as to secure them from the attacks of our people, which she
+might easily have avoided herself.
+
+One or two foxes (_Canis Lagopus_) were killed, and four caught in traps
+during the winter, weighing from four pounds and three quarters to three
+pounds and three quarters. The colour of one of these animals, which
+lived for some time on board the Fury, and became tolerably tame, was
+nearly pure white till the month of May, when he shed his winter coat,
+and became of a dirty chocolate colour, with two or three light brown
+spots. Only three hares (_Lepus Variabilis_) were killed from October
+to June, weighing from six to eight pounds and three quarters. Their fur
+was extremely thick, soft, and of the most beautiful whiteness
+imaginable. We saw no deer near Port Bowen at any season, neither were
+we visited by their enemies the wolves. A single ermine and a few mice
+(_Mus Hudsonius_) complete, I believe, our scanty list of quadrupeds at
+this desolate and unproductive place.
+
+Towards the end of June, the dovekies (_Colymbus Grylle_) were extremely
+numerous in the cracks of the ice at the entrance of Port Bowen; and as
+these were the only fresh supply of any consequence that we were able to
+procure at this unproductive place, we were glad to permit the men to go
+out occasionally with guns, after the ships were ready for sea, to
+obtain for their messes this wholesome change of diet; while such
+excursions also contributed essentially to their general health and
+cheerfulness. Many hundreds of these birds were thus obtained in the
+course of a few days. On the evening of the 6th of July, however, I was
+greatly shocked at being informed by Captain Hoppner that John
+Cotterell,[007] a seaman of the Fury, had been found drowned in one of
+the cracks of the ice by two other men belonging to the same party, who
+had been with him but a few minutes before. We could never ascertain
+precisely in what manner this accident happened, but it was supposed
+that he must have overreached himself in stooping for a bird that he
+had killed. His remains were committed to the earth on Sunday the 10th,
+with every solemnity which the occasion demanded, and our situation
+would allow; and a tomb of stones, with a suitable inscription, was
+afterward erected over the grave.
+
+In order to obtain oil for another winter's consumption, before the
+ships could be released from the ice, and our travelling parties having
+seen a number of black whales in the open water to the northward, two
+boats from each ship were, with considerable labour, transported four
+miles along shore in that direction, to be in readiness for killing a
+whale and boiling the oil on the beach, whenever the open water should
+approach sufficiently near. Notwithstanding these preparations, however,
+it was vexatious to find that on the 9th of July the water was still
+three miles distant from the boats, and at least seven from Port Bowen.
+On the 12th, the ice in our neighbourhood began to detach itself, and
+the boats, under the command of Lieutenants Sherer and Ross, being
+launched on the following day, succeeded almost immediately in killing a
+small whale of "five feet bone," exactly answering our purpose. Almost
+at the same time, and, as it turned out, very opportunely, the ice at
+the mouth of our harbour detached itself at an old crack, and drifted
+off, leaving only about one mile and a quarter between us and the sea.
+Half of this distance being occupied by the gravelled canal, which was
+dissolved quite through the ice in many parts, and had become very thin
+in all, every officer and man in both ships were set to work without
+delay to commence a fresh canal from the open water to communicate with
+the other. This work proved heavier than we expected, the ice being
+generally from five to eight feet, and in many places from ten to eleven
+in thickness. It was continued, however, with the greatest cheerfulness
+and alacrity from seven in the morning till seven in the evening daily,
+the dinner being prepared on the ice, and eaten under the lee of a
+studding sail erected as a tent.
+
+On the afternoon of the 19th, a very welcome stop was put to our
+operations by the separation of the floe entirely across the harbour,
+and about one third from the ships to where we were at work. All hands
+being instantly recalled by signal, were, on their return, set to work
+to get the ships into the gravelled canal, and to saw away what still
+remained in it to prevent our warping to sea. This work, with only half
+an hour's intermission for the men's supper, was continued till half
+past six the following morning, when we succeeded in getting clear. The
+weather being calm, two hours were occupied in towing the ships to sea,
+and thus the officers and men were employed at a very laborious work for
+twenty-six hours, during which time there were, on one occasion, fifteen
+of them overboard at once; and, indeed, several individuals met with the
+same accident three times. It was impossible, however, to regret the
+necessity of these comparatively trifling exertions, especially as it
+was now evident that to saw our way out without any canal would have
+required at least a fortnight of heavy and fatiguing labour.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+
+     Sail over towards the Western Coast of Prince Regent's
+     Inlet.--Stopped by the Ice.--Reach the Shore about Cape
+     Seppings.--Favourable Progress along the Land.--Fresh and repeated
+     Obstructions from Ice.--Both Ships driven on Shore.--Fury seriously
+     damaged.--Unsuccessful Search for a Harbour for heaving her down to
+     repair.
+
+
+
+_July_ 20.--On standing out to sea, we sailed, with a light southerly
+wind, towards the western shore of Prince Regent's Inlet, which it was
+my first wish to gain, on account of the evident advantage to be derived
+from coasting the southern part of that portion of land called in the
+chart "North Somerset," as far as it might lead to the westward; which,
+from our former knowledge, we had reason to suppose it would do as far
+at least as the longitude of 95°, in the parallel of about 72-3/4°.
+After sailing about eight miles, we were stopped by a body of close ice
+lying between us and a space of open water beyond. We were shortly after
+enveloped in one of the thick fogs which had, for several weeks past,
+been observed almost daily hanging over some part of the sea in the
+offing, though we had scarcely experienced any in Port Bowen until the
+water became open at the mouth of the harbour.
+
+On the clearing up of the fog on the 21st, we could perceive no opening
+of the ice leading towards the western land, nor any appearance of the
+smallest channel to the southward along the eastern shore. I was
+determined, therefore, to try at once a little farther to the
+northward, the present state of the ice appearing completely to accord
+with that observed in 1819, its breadth increasing as we advanced from
+Prince Leopold's Islands to the southward.
+
+Light winds detained us very much, but, being at length favoured by a
+breeze, we carried all sail to the northwest, the ice very gradually
+leading us towards the Leopold Isles. Having arrived off the
+northernmost on the morning of the 22nd, it was vexatious, however
+curious, to observe the exact coincidence of the present position of the
+ice with that which it occupied a little later in the year 1819. The
+whole body of it seemed to cling to the western shore, as if held there
+by some strong attraction, forbidding, for the present, any access to
+it. After running all night, with light and variable winds, through
+loose and scattered ice, we suddenly found ourselves, on the clearing up
+of a thick fog through which we had been sailing on the morning of the
+24th, within one third of a mile of Cape Seppings, the land just
+appearing above the fog in time to save us from danger, the soundings
+being thirty-eight fathoms, on a rocky bottom. The Fury being apprized
+by guns of our situation, both ships were hauled off the land, and the
+fog soon after dispersing, we had the satisfaction to perceive that the
+late gale had blown the ice off the land, leaving us a fine navigable
+channel from one to two miles wide, as far as we could see from the
+masthead along the shore. We were able to avail ourselves of this but
+slowly, however, in consequence of a light southerly breeze still
+blowing against us.
+
+The land here, when closely viewed, assumes a very striking, and
+magnificent character; the strata of limestone, which are numerous and
+quite horizontally disposed, being much more regular than on the eastern
+shore of Prince Regent's Inlet, and retaining nearly their whole
+perpendicular height of six or seven hundred feet close to the sea. I
+may here remark, that the whole of Barrow's Strait, as far as we could
+see to the N.N.E. of the islands, was entirely free from ice; and, from
+whatever circumstance it may proceed, I do not think that this part of
+the Polar Sea is at any season very much encumbered with it.
+
+It was the general feeling at this period among us, that the voyage had
+but now commenced. The labours of a bad summer, and the tedium of a long
+winter, were forgotten in a moment when we found ourselves upon ground
+not hitherto explored, and with every apparent prospect before us of
+making as rapid a progress as the nature of this navigation will permit,
+towards the final accomplishment of our object.
+
+A breeze enabling us again to make some progress, and an open channel
+still favouring us, of nearly the same breadth as before, we passed,
+during the night of the 25th, a second bay, about the same size as the
+other, and also appearing open to the sea; it lies in latitude (by
+account from the preceding and following noon) 73° 19' 30", and its
+width is one mile and a half. We now perceived that the ice closed
+completely in with the land a short distance beyond us; and, having made
+all the way we could, were obliged to stand off and on during the day in
+a channel not three quarters of a mile wide.
+
+A light southerly breeze on the morning of the 28th gradually cleared
+the shore, and a fresh wind from the N.W. then immediately succeeded. We
+instantly took advantage of this circumstance, and, casting off at six
+A.M., ran eight or nine miles without obstruction, when we were stopped
+by the ice, which, in a closely packed and impenetrable body, stretched
+close into the shore as far as the eye could reach from the crow's nest.
+Being anxious to gain every foot of distance that we could, and
+perceiving some grounded ice which appeared favourable for making fast
+to, just at a point where the clear water terminated, the ships were run
+to the utmost extent of it, and a boat prepared from each to examine the
+water at the intended anchoring place. Just as I was about to leave the
+Hecla for that purpose, the ice was observed, to be in rapid motion
+towards the shore. The Fury was immediately hauled in by some grounded
+masses, and placed to the best advantage; but the Hecla, being more
+advanced, was immediately beset in spite of every exertion, and, after
+breaking two of the largest ice-anchors in endeavouring to heave in to
+the shore, was obliged to drift with the ice, several masses of which
+had fortunately interposed themselves between us and the land. The ice
+slackening around us a little in the evening, we were enabled, with
+considerable labour, to get to some grounded masses, where we lay much
+exposed, as the Fury also did. In this situation, our latitude being 72°
+51' 51", we saw a comparatively low point of land three or four leagues
+to the southward, which proved to be near that which terminated our view
+of this coast in 1819.
+
+The ice opening for a mile and a half alongshore on the 30th, we shifted
+the Hecla's berth about that distance to the southward, chiefly to be
+enabled to see more distinctly round a point which before obstructed our
+view, though our situation as regarded the security of the ship was much
+altered for the worse. In the afternoon it blew a hard gale, with
+constant rain, from the northward, the clouds indicating an easterly
+wind in other parts. This wind, which was always the troublesome one to
+us, soon brought the ice closer and closer, till it pressed with very
+considerable violence on both ships, though the most upon the Fury,
+which lay in a very exposed situation. Early on the morning of the 31st,
+as soon as a communication could be effected, Captain Hoppner sent to
+inform me that the Fury had been forced on the ground, where she still
+lay; but that she would probably be hove off without much difficulty at
+high water, provided the external ice did not prevent it. A large party
+of hands from the Hecla being sent round to the Fury towards high water,
+she came off the ground with very little strain, so that, upon the
+whole, considering the situation in which the ships were lying, we
+thought ourselves fortunate in having incurred no very serious injury. A
+shift of wind to the southward in the afternoon at length began
+gradually to slacken it, but it was not till six A.M. on the 1st of
+August that there appeared a prospect of making any progress. The signal
+to that effect was immediately made; but, while the sails were setting,
+the ice, which had at first been three quarters of a mile distant from
+us, was observed to be closing the shore The ships were cast with all
+expedition, in hopes of gaining the broader channel before the ice had
+time to shut us up. So rapid, however, was the latter in this its sudden
+movement, that we had but just got the ships' heads the right way when
+the ice came boldly in upon us, being doubtless set in motion by a very
+sudden freshening of the wind almost to a gale in the course of a few
+minutes. The ships were now almost instantly beset, and in such a manner
+as to be literally helpless and unmanageable.
+
+The sails were, however, kept set; and, as the body of ice was setting
+to the southward withal, we went with it some little distance in that
+direction. The Hecla, after thus driving, and now and then forcing her
+way through the ice, in all about three quarters of a mile, quite close
+to the shore, at length struck the ground forcibly several times in the
+space of a hundred yards, and being then brought up by it, remained
+immoveable, the depth of water under her keel abaft being sixteen feet,
+or about a foot less than she drew. The Fury, continuing to drive, was
+now irresistibly carried past us, and we escaped, only by a few feet,
+the damage invariably occasioned by ships coming in contact under such
+circumstances. She had, however, scarcely passed us a hundred yards,
+when it was evident, by the ice pressing her in, as well as along the
+shore, that she must soon be stopped like the Hecla; and having gone
+about two hundred yards farther, she was observed to receive a severe
+pressure from a large floe-piece forcing her directly against a grounded
+mass of ice upon the beach. After setting to the southward for an hour
+or two longer, the ice became stationary, no open water being anywhere
+visible from the masthead, and the pressure on the ships remaining
+undiminished during the day. Just as I had ascertained the utter
+impossibility of moving the Hecla a single foot, and that she must lie
+aground fore and aft as soon as the tide fell, I received a note from
+Captain Hoppner, informing me that the Fury had been so severely
+"nipped" and strained as to leak a good deal, apparently about four
+inches an hour; that she was still heavily pressed both upon the ground
+and against the large mass of ice within her; that the rudder was at
+present very awkwardly situated; and that one boat had been much
+damaged. However, about high water, the ice very opportunely slacking,
+the Hecla was hove off with great ease, and warped to a floe in the
+offing, to which we made fast at midnight. The Fury was not long after
+us in coming off the ground, when I was in hopes of finding that any
+twist or strain by which her leaks might have been occasioned, would, in
+some measure, close when she was relieved from pressure and once more
+fairly afloat. My disappointment and mortification, therefore, may in
+some measure be imagined, at being informed by telegraph, about two A.M.
+on the 2d, that the water was gaining on two pumps, and that a part of
+the doubling had floated up. Presently after, perceiving from the
+masthead something like a small harbour nearly abreast of us, every
+effort was made to get once more towards the shore. In this the ice
+happily favoured us; and, after making sail, and one or two tacks, we
+got in with the land, when I left the ship in a boat to sound the place
+and search for shelter. The whole shore was more or less lined with
+grounded masses of ice; but, after examining the soundings within more
+than twenty of them, in the space of about a mile, I could only find two
+that would allow the ships to float at low water, and that by some care
+in placing and keeping them there. Having fixed a flag on each berg, the
+usual signal for the ships taking their stations, I rowed on board the
+Fury, and found four pumps constantly going to keep the ship free, and
+Captain Hoppner, his officers and men, almost exhausted with the
+incessant labour of the last eight-and-forty hours. The instant the
+ships were made fast, Captain Hoppner and myself set out in a boat to
+survey the shore still farther south, there being a narrow lane of water
+about a mile in that direction; for it had now become too evident that
+the Fury could proceed no farther without repairs, and that the nature
+of those repairs would in all probability involve the disagreeable, I
+may say the ruinous, necessity of heaving the ship down. After rowing
+about three quarters of a mile, we considered ourselves fortunate in
+arriving at a bolder part of the beach, where three grounded masses of
+ice, having from three to four fathoms water at low tide within them,
+were so disposed as to afford, with the assistance of art, something
+like shelter. Returning to the ships, we were setting the sails in order
+to run to the appointed place, when the ice closed in and prevented our
+moving, and in a short time there was once more no open water to be
+seen. We were therefore under the necessity of remaining in our present
+berths, where the smallest external pressure must inevitably force us
+ashore, neither ship having more than two feet of water to spare. One
+watch of the Hecla's crew were sent round to assist at the Fury's
+pumps, which required one third of her ship's company to be constantly
+employed at them.
+
+The more leisure we obtained to consider the state of the Fury, the more
+apparent became the absolute, however unfortunate, necessity of heaving
+her down. Four pumps were required to be at work without intermission to
+keep her free, and this in perfectly smooth water, showing that she was,
+in fact, so materially injured as to be very far from seaworthy. One
+third of her working men were constantly employed, as before remarked,
+in this laborious operation, and some of their hands had become so sore
+from the constant friction of the ropes, that they could hardly handle
+them any longer without the use of mittens, assisted by the unlaying of
+the ropes to make them soft. As, therefore, not a moment could be lost,
+we took advantage of a small lane of water, deep enough for boats, which
+kept open within the grounded masses along the shore, to convey to the
+Hecla some of the Fury's dry provisions, and to land a quantity of heavy
+iron work, and other stores not perishable; for the moment this measure
+was determined on, I was anxious, almost at any risk, to commence the
+lightening of the ship as far as our present insecurity and our distance
+from the shore would permit.
+
+At two A.M. on the 5th, the ice began to slacken near the ships, and, as
+soon as a boat could be rowed alongshore to the southward, I set out,
+accompanied by a second from the Fury, for the purpose of examining the
+state of our intended harbour since the recent pressure, and to
+endeavour to prepare for the reception of the ships by clearing out the
+loose ice. The Fury was detained some time by a quantity of loose ice,
+which had wedged itself in in such a manner as to leave her no room to
+move outward; but she arrived about seven o'clock, when both ships were
+made fast in the best berths we could find, but they were excluded from
+their intended place by the quantity of ice which had fixed itself
+there. Within twenty minutes after our arrival, the whole body of ice
+again came in, entirely closing up the shore, so that our moving proved
+most opportune.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+
+     Formation of a Basin for heaving the Fury down.--Landing of the
+     Fury's Stores, and other Preparations.--The Ships secured within
+     the Basin.--Impediments from the Pressure of the Ice.--Fury hove
+     down.--Securities of the Basin destroyed by a Gale of
+     Wind.--Preparations to tow the Fury out.--Hecla Re-equipped, and
+     obliged to put to Sea.--Fury again driven on Shore.--Rejoin the
+     Fury; and find it necessary finally to abandon her.
+
+
+
+As there was now no longer room for floating the ice out of the proposed
+basin, all hands were immediately employed in preparing the intended
+securities against the incursions of the ice. These consisted of anchors
+carried to the beach, having bower-cables attached to them, passing
+quite round the grounded masses, and thus enclosing a small space of
+just sufficient size to admit both ships. The cables we proposed
+floating by means of the two hand-masts and some empty casks lashed to
+them as buoys, with the intention of thus making them receive the
+pressure of the ice a foot or two below the surface of the water. By
+uncommon exertions on the part of the officers and men, this laborious
+work was completed before night as far as was practicable until the
+loose ice should set out; and all the tents were set up on the beach for
+the reception of the Fury's stores.
+
+The ice remaining quite close on the 6th, every individual in both
+ships, with the exception of those at the pumps, was employed in landing
+provisions from the Fury, together with the spars, boats, and everything
+from off her upper deck. On the following day, the ice remaining as
+before, the work was continued without intermission, and a great
+quantity of things landed. The armorer was also set to work on the beach
+in forging bolts for the martingales of the outriggers. In short, every
+living creature among us was somehow or other employed, not even
+excepting our dogs, which were set to drag up the stores on the beach;
+so that our little dock-yard soon exhibited the most animated scene
+imaginable. The Fury was thus so much lightened in the course of the
+day, that two pumps were now nearly sufficient to keep her free, and
+this number continued requisite until she was hove down.
+
+At night, just as the people were going to rest, the ice began to move
+to the southward, and soon after came in towards the shore, pressing the
+Fury over on her side to so alarming a degree, as to warn us that it
+would not be safe to lighten her much more in her present insecure
+situation. One of our bergs also shifted its position by this pressure,
+so as to weaken our confidence in the pier-heads of our intended basin;
+and a long "tongue" of one of them forcing itself under the Hecla's
+forefoot, while the drifting ice was also pressing her forcibly from
+astern, she once more sewed three or four feet forward at low water, and
+continued to do so, notwithstanding repeated endeavours to haul her off,
+for four successive tides, the ice remaining so close and so much
+doubled under the ship, as to render it impossible to move her a single
+inch. Notwithstanding the state of the ice, however, we did not remain
+idle on the 8th, all hands being employed in unrigging the Fury, and
+landing all her spars, sails, booms, boats, and other top weight.
+
+The ice still continuing very close on the 9th, all hands were employed
+in attempting, by saws and axes, to clear the Hecla, which still
+grounded on the tongue of ice every tide. After four hours' labour, they
+succeeded in making four or five feet of room astern, when the ship
+suddenly slid down off the tongue with considerable force, and became
+once more afloat. As it very opportunely happened, the external ice
+slackened to the distance of about a hundred yards outside of us on the
+morning of the 10th, enabling us, by a most tedious and laborious
+operation, to clear the ice out of our basin piece by piece. Our next
+business was to tighten the cables sufficiently by means of purchases,
+and to finish the floating of them in the manner and for the purpose
+before described. After this had been completed, the ships had only a
+few feet in length, and nothing in breadth to spare, but we had now
+great hopes of going on with our work with increased confidence and
+security. The Fury, which was placed inside, had something less than
+eighteen feet at low water; the Hecla lay in four fathoms, the bottom
+being strewed with large and small fragments of limestone.
+
+While thus employed in securing the ships, the smoothness of the water
+enabled us to see, in some degree, the nature of the Fury's damage; and
+it may be conceived how much pain it occasioned us plainly to discover
+that both the sternpost and forefoot were broken and turned up on one
+side with the pressure. We also could perceive, as far as we were able
+to see along the main keel, that it was much torn, and we had therefore
+much reason to conclude that the damage would altogether prove very
+serious. We also discovered that several feet of the Hecla's false keel
+were torn away abreast of the forechains, in consequence of her
+grounding forward so frequently.
+
+Being favoured with fine weather, we continued our work very quickly, so
+that on the 12th every cask was landed, and also the powder; and the
+spare sails and clothing put on board the Hecla. The coals and preserved
+meats were the principal things now remaining on board the Fury, and
+these we continued landing by every method we could devise as the most
+expeditious.
+
+Early on the morning of the 14th, the ice slackening a little in our
+neighbourhood, we took advantage of it, though the people were much
+fagged, to tighten the cables, which had stretched and yielded
+considerably by the late pressure. It was well that we did so; for in
+the course of this day we were several times interrupted in our work by
+the ice coming with a tremendous strain on the north cables, the wind
+blowing strong from the N.N.W., and the whole "pack" outside of us
+setting rapidly to the southward. Indeed, notwithstanding the recent
+tightening and readjustment of the cables, the bight was pressed in so
+much as to force the Fury against the berg astern of her twice in the
+course of the day.
+
+From this trial of the efficacy of our means of security, it was plain
+that the Fury could not possibly be hove down under circumstances of
+such frequent and imminent risk: I therefore directed a fourth anchor,
+with two additional cables, to be carried out, with the hope of breaking
+some of the force of the ice by its offering a more oblique resistance
+than the other, and thus, by degrees, turning the direction of the
+pressure from the ships. We had scarcely completed this new defence,
+when the largest floe we had seen since leaving Port Bowen came sweeping
+along the shore, having a motion to the southward of not less than a
+mile and a half an hour; and a projecting point of it, just grazing our
+outer berg, threatened to overturn it, and would certainly have
+dislodged it from its situation but for the cable recently attached to
+it.
+
+The Fury being completely cleared at an early hour on the 16th, we were
+all busily employed in "winding" the ship, and in preparing the
+outriggers, shores, purchases, and additional rigging. Though we
+purposely selected the time of high water for turning the ship round, we
+had scarcely a foot of space to spare for doing it; and indeed, as it
+was, her forefoot touched the ground, and loosened the broken part of
+the wood so much as to enable us to pull it up with ropes, when we found
+the fragments to consist of the whole of the "gripe" and most of the
+"cutwater." In the evening we received the Fury's crew on board the
+Hecla, every arrangement and regulation having been previously made for
+their personal comfort, and for the preservation of cleanliness,
+ventilation, and dry warmth throughout the ship. The officers of the
+Fury, by their own choice, pitched a tent on shore for messing and
+sleeping in, as our accommodation for two sets of officers was
+necessarily confined. Every preparation being made, at three A.M. on the
+18th we began to heave her down on the larboard side; but when the
+purchases were nearly ablock, we found that the strops under the Hecla's
+bottom, as well as some of the Fury's shore-fasts, had stretched or
+yielded so much that they could not bring the keel out of water within
+three or four feet. We immediately eased her up again, and readjusted
+everything as requisite, hauling her farther in-shore than before by
+keeping a considerable heel upon her, so as to make less depth of water
+necessary; and we were then in the act of once more heaving her down,
+when a snowstorm came on and blew with such violence off the land as to
+raise a considerable sea. The ships had now so much motion as to strain
+the gear very much, and even to make the lower masts of the Fury bend in
+spite of the shores; we were, therefore, most unwillingly compelled to
+desist until the sea should go down, keeping everything ready to
+recommence the instant we could possibly do so with safety. The officers
+and men were now literally so harassed and fatigued as to be scarcely
+capable of farther exertion without some rest; and on this and one or
+two other occasions, I noticed more than a single instance of stupor,
+amounting to a certain degree of failure in intellect, rendering the
+individual so affected quite unable at first to comprehend the meaning
+of an order, though still as willing as ever to obey it. It was
+therefore, perhaps, a fortunate necessity that produced the intermission
+of labour which the strength of every individual seemed to require.
+
+The gale rather increasing than otherwise during the whole day and night
+of the 18th, had, on the following morning, when the wind and sea still
+continued unabated, so destroyed the bergs on which our sole dependance
+was placed, that they no longer remained aground at low water; the
+cables had again become slack about them, and the basin we had taken so
+much pains in forming had now lost all its defences, at least during a
+portion of every tide. After a night of most anxious consideration and
+consultation with Captain Hoppner, who was now my messmate in the Hecla,
+it appeared but too plain that, should the ice again come in, neither
+ship could any longer be secured from driving on shore. It was therefore
+determined instantly to prepare the Hecla for sea, making her thoroughly
+effective in every respect; so that we might at least push _her_ out
+into comparative safety among the ice when it closed again, taking every
+person on board her, securing the Fury in the best manner we could, and
+returning to her the instant we were able to do so, to endeavour to get
+her out, and to carry her to some place of security for heaving down.
+If, after the Hecla was ready, time should still be allowed us, it was
+proposed immediately to put into the Fury all that was requisite, or, at
+least, as much as she could safely carry, and, towing her out into the
+ice, to try the effect of "foddering" the leaks by sails under those
+parts of her keel which we knew to be damaged, until some more effectual
+means could be resorted to.
+
+Having communicated to the assembled officers and ships' companies my
+views and intentions, we commenced our work; and such was the hearty
+good-will and indefatigable energy with which it was carried on, that by
+midnight the whole was accomplished.
+
+On the 20th, therefore, the reloading of the Fury commenced with
+recruited strength and spirits, such articles being in the first place
+selected for putting on board as were essentially requisite for her
+reequipment; for it was my full determination, could we succeed in
+completing this, not to wait even for rigging a topmast, or getting a
+lower yard up, in the event of the ice coming in, but to tow her out
+among the ice, and there put everything sufficiently to rights for
+carrying her to some place of security. A few hands were also spared,
+consisting chiefly of two or three convalescents, and some of the
+officers, to thrum a sail for putting under the Fury's keel; for we were
+very anxious to relieve the men at the pumps, which constantly required
+the labour of eight to twelve hands to keep her free. By a long and hard
+day's labour, the people not going to rest till two o'clock on the
+morning of the 21st, we got about fifty tons' weight of coals and
+provisions on board the Fury, which, in case of necessity, we considered
+sufficient to give her stability. Having hauled the ships out a little
+from the shore, and prepared the Hecla for casting by a spring at a
+moment's notice, all the people except those at the pumps were sent to
+rest, which, however, they had not enjoyed for two hours, when, at four
+A.M. on the 21st, another heavy mass coming violently in contact with
+the bergs and cables, threatened to sweep away every remaining security.
+More hawsers were run out, however, and enabled us still to hold on;
+and, after six hours of disturbed rest, all hands were again set to work
+to get the Fury's anchors, cables, rudder, and spars on board, these
+being absolutely necessary for her equipment, should we be able to get
+her out. At two P.M. the crews were called on board to dinner, which
+they had not finished when several not very large masses of ice drove
+along the shore near us at a quick rate, and two or three successively
+coming in violent contact either with the Hecla or the bergs to which
+she was attached, convinced me that very little additional pressure
+would tear everything away, and drive both ships on shore. I saw that
+the moment had arrived when the Hecla could no longer be kept in her
+present situation with the smallest chance of safety, and therefore
+immediately got under sail, despatching Captain Hoppner with every
+individual, except a few for working the ship, to continue getting the
+things on board the Fury, while the Hecla stood off and on. Captain
+Hoppner had scarcely been an hour on board the Fury, and was busily
+engaged in getting the anchors and cables on board, when we observed
+some large pieces of not very heavy ice closing in with the land near
+her; and at twenty minutes past four P.M., being an hour and five
+minutes after the Hecla had cast off, I was informed by signal that the
+Fury was on shore. As the navigating of the Hecla, with only ten men on
+board, required constant attention and care, I could not at this time,
+with propriety, leave the ship to go on board the Fury. I therefore
+directed Captain Hoppner by telegraph, "if he thought nothing could be
+done at present, to return on board with all hands until the wind
+changed;" for this alone, as far as I could see the state of the Fury,
+seemed to offer the smallest chance of clearing the shore, so as to
+enable us to proceed with our work, or to attempt hauling the ship off
+the ground. About seven P.M. Captain Hoppner returned to the Hecla,
+accompanied by all hands, except an officer with a party at the pumps,
+reporting to me, that the Fury had been forced aground by the ice
+pressing on the masses lying near her, and bringing home, if not
+breaking, the seaward anchor, so that the ship was soon found to have
+sewed from two to three feet fore and aft.
+
+Finding, soon after Captain Hoppner's return, that the current swept the
+Hecla a long way to the southward while hoisting up the boats, and that
+more ice was drifting in towards the shore, I was under the painful
+necessity of recalling the party at the pumps, rather than incur the
+risk, now an inevitable one, of parting company with them altogether.
+Accordingly, Mr. Bird, with the last of the people, came on board at
+eight o'clock in the evening, having left eighteen inches water in the
+well, and four pumps being requisite to keep her free. In three hours
+after Mr. Bird's return, more than half a mile of closely packed ice
+intervened between the Fury and the open water in which we were
+beating, and before the morning this barrier had increased to four or
+five miles in breadth.
+
+We carried a press of canvass all night, with a fresh breeze from the
+north, to enable us to keep abreast of the Fury, which, on account of
+the strong southerly current, we could only do by beating at some
+distance from the land. The breadth of the ice in-shore continued
+increasing during the day, but we could see no end to the water in which
+we were beating, either to the southward or eastward. It fell quite calm
+in the evening, when the breadth of the ice in-shore had increased to
+six or seven miles. We did not, during the day, perceive any current
+setting to the southward, but in the course of the night we were drifted
+four or five leagues to the southwestward.
+
+A southerly breeze enabling us to regain our northing, we ran along the
+margin of the ice, but were led so much to the eastward by it, that we
+could approach the ship no nearer than before during the whole day. She
+appeared to us at this distance to have a much greater heel than when
+the people left her, which made us still more anxious to get near her.
+The latitude at noon was 72° 34' 57", making our distance from the Fury
+twelve miles, which, by the morning of the 25th, had increased to at
+least five leagues, the ice continuing to "pack" between us and the
+shore. The wind, however, now gradually drew round to the westward,
+giving us hopes of a change, and we continued to ply about the margin of
+the ice, in constant readiness for taking advantage of any opening that
+might occur. It favoured us so much by streaming off in the course of
+the day, that by seven P.M. we had nearly reached a channel of clear
+water, which kept open for seven or eight miles from the land. Being
+impatient to obtain a sight of the Fury, and the wind becoming light,
+Captain Hoppner and myself left the Hecla in two boats, and reached the
+ship at half past nine, or about three quarters of an hour before high
+water, being the most favourable time of tide for arriving to examine
+her condition.
+
+We found her heeling so much outward, that her main channels were within
+a foot of the water; and the large floe-piece, which was still alongside
+of her, seemed alone to support her below water, and to prevent her
+falling over still more considerably. The ship had been forced much
+farther up the beach than before, and she had now in her bilge above
+nine feet of water, which reached higher than the lower-deck beams. The
+first hour's inspection of the Fury's condition too plainly assured me
+that, exposed as she was, and forcibly pressed up upon an open and stony
+beach, her holds full of water, and the damage of her hull to all
+appearance and in all probability more considerable than before, without
+any adequate means of hauling her off to seaward, or securing her from
+the farther incursions of the ice, every endeavour of ours to get her
+off, or _if_ got off, to float her to any known place of safety, would
+be at once utterly hopeless in itself, and productive of extreme risk to
+our remaining ship.
+
+Mr. Pulfer, the carpenter of the Fury, considered that it would occupy
+five days to clear the ship of water; that if she were got off, all the
+pumps would not be sufficient to keep her free, in consequence of the
+additional damage she seemed to have sustained; and that, if even hove
+down, twenty days' work, with the means we possessed, would be required
+for making her sea-worthy. Captain Hoppner and the other officers were
+therefore of opinion, that an absolute necessity existed for abandoning
+the Fury. My own opinion being thus confirmed as to the utter
+hopelessness of saving her, and feeling more strongly than ever the
+responsibility which attached to me of preserving the Hecla unhurt, it
+was with extreme pain and regret that I made the signal for the Fury's
+officers and men to be sent for their clothes, most of which, had been
+put on shore with the stores.
+
+The whole of the Fury's stores were of necessity left either on board
+her or on shore, every spare corner that we could find in the Hecla
+being now absolutely required for the accommodation of our double
+complement of officers and men, whose cleanliness and health could only
+be maintained by keeping the decks as clear and well ventilated as our
+limited space would permit. The spot where the Fury was left is in
+latitude 72° 42' 30"; the longitude by chronometers is 91° 50' 05"; the
+dip of the magnetic needle 88° 19' 22"; and the variation 129° 25'
+westerly.
+
+When the accident first happened to the Fury, I confidently expected to
+be able to repair her damages in good time to take advantage of a large
+remaining part of the navigable season in the prosecution of the voyage;
+and while the clearing of the ship was going on with so much alacrity,
+and the repairs seemed to be within the reach of our means and
+resources, I still flattered myself with the same hope. Those
+expectations were now at an end. With a twelvemonth's provisions for
+both ship's companies, extending our resources only to the autumn of the
+following year, it would have been folly to hope for final success,
+considering the small progress we had already made, the uncertain nature
+of this navigation, and the advanced period of the present season. I was
+therefore reduced to the only remaining conclusion, that it was my duty,
+under all the circumstances of the case, to return to England in
+compliance with the plain tenour of my instructions. As soon as the
+boats were hoisted up, therefore, and the anchor stowed, the ship's head
+was put to the northeastward, with a light air off the land, in order to
+gain an offing before the ice should again set in-shore.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+
+     Some Remarks upon the Loss of the Fury--And on the Natural History,
+     &c., of the Coast of North Somerset.--Arrive at Neill's
+     Harbour.--Death of John Page.--Leave Neill's Harbour.--Recross the
+     Ice in Baffin's Bay.--Heavy Gales.--Temperature of the
+     Sea.--Arrival in England.
+
+
+
+The accident which had now befallen the Fury, and which, when its fatal
+result was finally ascertained, at once put an end to every prospect of
+success in the main object of this voyage, is not an event which will
+excite surprise in the minds of those who are either personally
+acquainted with the true nature of this precarious navigation, or have
+had patience to follow me through the tedious and monotonous detail of
+our operations during seven successive summers. To any persons thus
+qualified to judge, it will be plain that an occurrence of this nature
+was at all times rather to be expected than otherwise, and that the only
+real cause for wonder has been our long exemption from such a
+catastrophe.
+
+The summer of 1825 was, beyond all doubt, the warmest and most
+favourable we had experienced since that of 1818. Not more than two or
+three days occurred, during the months of July and August, in which that
+heavy fall of snow took place which so commonly converts the aspect of
+nature in these regions, in a single hour, from the cheerfulness of
+summer into the dreariness of winter. Indeed, we experienced very little
+either of snow, rain, or fog: vegetation, wherever the soil allowed any
+to spring up, was extremely luxuriant and forward; a great deal of the
+old snow, which had laid on the ground during the last season, was
+rapidly dissolving even early in August; and every appearance of nature
+exhibited a striking contrast with the last summer, while it seemed
+evidently to furnish an extraordinary compensation for its rigour and
+inclemency.
+
+We have scarcely ever visited a coast on which so little of animal life
+occurs. For days together, only one or two seals, a single seahorse, and
+now and then a flock of ducks, were seen. I have already mentioned,
+however, as an exception to this scarcity of animals, the numberless
+kittiwakes which were flying about the remarkable spout of water; and
+we were one day visited, at the place where the Fury was left, by
+hundreds of white whales, sporting about in the shoal water close to the
+beach. No black whales were ever seen on this coast. Two reindeer were
+observed by the gentlemen who extended their walks inland; but this was
+the only summer in which we did not procure a single pound of venison.
+Indeed, the whole of our supplies obtained in this way during the
+voyage, including fish, flesh, and fowl, did not exceed twenty pounds
+per man.
+
+The weather continuing nearly calm during the 26th, and the ice keeping
+at the distance of several miles from the land, gave us an opportunity
+of clearing decks, and stowing the things belonging to the Fury's crew
+more comfortably for their accommodation and convenience. I now felt
+more sensibly than ever the necessity I have elsewhere pointed out, of
+both ships employed on this kind of service being of the same size,
+equipped in the same manner, and alike efficient in every respect. The
+way in which we had been able to apply every article for assisting to
+heave the Fury down, without the smallest doubt or selection as to size
+or strength, proved an excellent practical example of the value of being
+thus able, at a moment's warning, to double the means and resources of
+either ship in case of necessity. In fact, by this arrangement, nothing
+but a harbour to secure the ships was wanted to complete the whole
+operation in as effectual a manner as in a dockyard; for not a shore, or
+outrigger, or any other precaution was omitted, that is usually attended
+to on such occasions, and all as good and effective as could anywhere
+have been desired. The advantages were now scarcely conspicuous in the
+accommodation of the officers and men, who in a short time became little
+less comfortable than in their own ship; whereas, in a smaller vessel,
+comfort, to say nothing of health, would have been quite out of the
+question.
+
+A breeze from the northward freshening up strong on the 27th, we
+stretched over to the eastern shore of Prince Regent's Inlet, and this
+with scarcely any obstruction from ice. We could, indeed, scarcely
+believe this the same sea which, but a few weeks before, had been loaded
+with one impenetrable body of closely-packed ice from shore to shore,
+and as far as the eye could discern to the southward. Having a great
+deal of heavy work to do in the restowage of the holds, which could not
+well be accomplished at sea, and also a quantity of water to fill for
+our increased complement, I determined to take advantage of our fetching
+the entrance of Neill's Harbour to put in here, in order to prepare the
+ship completely for crossing the Atlantic. I was desirous also of
+ascertaining the depth of water in this place, which was wanting to
+complete Lieutenant Sherer's survey of it. Finding the harbour an
+extremely convenient one for our purpose, we worked the ship in, and at
+four P.M. anchored in thirteen fathoms, but afterward shifted out to
+eighteen, on a bottom of soft mud. Almost at the moment of our dropping
+the anchor, John Page, seaman of the Fury, departed this life: he had
+for several months been affected with a scrofulous disorder, and had
+been gradually sinking for some time.
+
+The funeral of the deceased being performed, we immediately commenced
+landing the casks and filling water; but, notwithstanding the large
+streams which, a short time before, had been running into the harbour,
+we could hardly obtain enough for our purpose by sinking a cask with
+holes in it. This work, together with the entire restowage of all the
+holds, occupied the whole of the 29th and 30th, during which time
+Lieutenant Sherer was employed in completing the survey of the harbour,
+more especially the soundings, which the presence of the ice had before
+prevented. These arrangements had just been completed, when the
+northeasterly wind died away, and was succeeded, on the morning of the
+31st, by a light air from the northwest. As soon as we had sent to
+ascertain that the sea was clear of ice on the outside, and that the
+breeze which blew in the harbour was the true one, we weighed and stood
+out, and before noon had cleared the shoals at the entrance.
+
+Finding the wind at northwest in Prince Regent's Inlet, we were barely
+able to lie along the eastern coast. As the breeze freshened in the
+course of the day, a great deal of loose ice, in extensive streams and
+patches, came drifting down from the Leopold Islands, occasioning us
+some trouble in picking our way to the northward. By carrying a press of
+sail, however, we were enabled, towards night, to get into clearer
+water, and by four A.M. on the 1st of September, having beat to windward
+of a compact body of ice which had fixed itself on the lee shore about
+Cape York, we soon came into a perfectly open sea in Barrow's Strait,
+and were enabled to bear away to the eastward. We now considered
+ourselves fortunate in having got out of harbour when we did, as the ice
+would probably have filled up every inlet on that shore in a few hours
+after we left it.
+
+Being again favoured with a fair wind, we now stretched to the eastward,
+still in an open sea; and our curiosity was particularly excited to see
+the present situation of the ice in the middle of Baffin's Bay, and to
+compare it with that in 1824. This comparison we were enabled to make
+the more fairly, because the season at which we might expect to come to
+it coincided, within three or four days, with that in which we left it
+the preceding year. The temperature of the sea-water now increased to
+38° soon after leaving the Sound, where it had generally been from 33°
+to 35°, whereas at the same season last year it rose no higher than 32°
+anywhere in the neighbourhood, and remained even so high as that only
+for a very short time. This circumstance seemed to indicate the total
+absence of ice from those parts of the sea which had last autumn been
+wholly covered by it. Accordingly, on the 5th, being thirty miles beyond
+the spot in which we had before contended with numerous difficulties
+from ice, not a piece was to be seen, except one or two solitary bergs;
+and it was not till the following day, in latitude 72° 45', and
+longitude 64° 44', or about one hundred and twenty-seven miles to the
+eastward of where we made our escape on the 9th of September, 1824, that
+we fell in with a body of ice so loose and open as scarcely to oblige us
+to alter our course for it. At three P.M. on the 7th, being in latitude
+72° 30', and longitude 60° 05', and having, in the course of eighty
+miles that we had run through it, only made a single tack, we came to
+the margin of the ice, and got into an open sea on its eastern side. In
+the whole course of this distance, the ice was so much spread that it
+would not, if at all closely "packed," have occupied one third of the
+same space. There were at this time thirty-nine bergs in sight, and some
+of them certainly not less than two hundred feet in height.
+
+On the 8th, being in latitude 71° 55', longitude 60° 30', and close to
+the margin of the ice, we fell in with the Alfred, Ellison, and
+Elizabeth, whalers, of Hull, all running to the northward, even at this
+season, to look for whales.
+
+As the whaling-ships were not homeward bound, having as yet had
+indifferent success in the fishery, I did not consider it necessary to
+send despatches by them. After an hour's communication with them, and
+obtaining such information of a public nature as could not fail to be
+highly interesting to us, we made sail to the southward; while we
+observed them lying to for some time after, probably to consult
+respecting the unwelcome information with which we had furnished them as
+to the whales, not one of which, by some extraordinary chance, we had
+seen since leaving Neill's Harbour. As this circumstance was entirely
+new to us, it seems not unlikely that the whales are already beginning
+to shift their ground, in consequence of the increased attacks which
+have been made upon them of late years in that neighbourhood.
+
+On the 10th we had an easterly wind, which, gradually freshening to a
+gale, drew up the Strait from the southward, and blew strong for
+twentyfour hours from that quarter. The wind moderated on the 11th, but
+on the following day another gale came on, which for nine or ten hours
+blew in most tremendous gusts from the same quarter, and raised a heavy
+sea. We happily came near no ice during the night, or it would scarcely
+have been possible to keep the ship clear of it. It abated after
+daylight on the 13th, but continued to blow an ordinary gale for twelve
+hours longer.
+
+On the 17th, at noon, we had passed to the southward of the Arctic
+Circle, and from this latitude to that of about 58°, we had favourable
+winds and weather; but we remarked on this, as on several other
+occasions during this season, that a northerly breeze, contrary to
+ordinary observation, brought more moisture with it than any other. In
+the course of this run, we also observed more driftwood than we had ever
+done before, which I thought might possibly be owing to the very great
+prevalence of easterly winds this season driving it farther from the
+coast of Greenland than usual.
+
+On, the morning of the 24th, notwithstanding the continuance of a
+favourable breeze, we met, in the latitude of 58-1/2°, so heavy a swell
+from the northeastward as to make the ship labour violently for
+four-and-twenty hours. On the morning of the 25th we had again an
+easterly wind, which in a few hours reduced us to the close-reefed
+topsails and reefed courses. At eight P.M. it freshened to a gale, which
+brought us under the main-topsail and storm-staysails, and at seven the
+following morning it increased to a gale of such violence from N.E.b.N.
+as does not very often occur at sea in these latitudes. The gusts were
+at times so tremendous as to set the sea quite in a foam, and
+threatened to tear the sails out of the bolt-ropes. The wind gradually
+drew to the westward, with dry weather, after the gale began to abate,
+and at six A.M. we were enabled to bear up and run to the eastward with
+a strong gale at N.W.
+
+The indications of the barometer previous to and during this gale
+deserve to be noticed, because it is only about Cape Farewell that, in
+coming from the northward down Davis's Strait, this instrument begins to
+speak a language which has ever been intelligible to us _as a weather
+glass_. On the 24th, notwithstanding the change of wind from north to
+east, the mercury rose from 29.51 on that morning, to 29.72 at three
+A.M. the following day, but fell to 26.39 by nine P.M. with the strong
+but not violent breeze then blowing. After this it continued to descend
+very gradually, and had reached 28.84, which was its minimum, at three
+P.M. on the 26th, after which it continued to blow tremendously hard for
+eleven or twelve hours, the mercury uniformly, though slowly, ascending
+to 28.95 during that interval, and afterward to 29.73 as the weather
+became moderate and fine in the course of the täähree following days.
+
+After this gale the atmosphere seemed to be quite cleared, and we
+enjoyed a week of such remarkably fine weather as seldom occurs at this
+season of the year. We had then a succession of strong southerly winds,
+but we were enabled to continue our progress to the eastward, so as to
+make Mould Head, towards the northwest end of the Orkney Islands, at
+daylight on the 10th of October.
+
+After rounding the north end of the Orkneys on the 10th of October, we
+were, on the 12th, met by a strong southerly wind when off Peterhead. I
+therefore immediately landed (for the second time) at that place, and,
+setting off without delay for London, arrived at the Admiralty on the
+16th.
+
+The Hecla arrived at Sheerness on the 20th of October, where she was
+detained for a few days for the purpose of Captain Hoppner, his
+officers, and ship's company being put upon their trial (according to
+the customary and indispensable rule in such cases) for the loss of the
+Fury--when, it is scarcely necessary to add, they received an honourable
+acquittal. The Hecla then proceeded to Woolwich, and was paid off on the
+21st of November.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ACCOUNT
+
+OF
+
+THE ESQUIMAUX
+
+OF
+
+MELVILLE PENINSULA AND THE ADJOINING ISLANDS: MORE PARTICULARLY OF
+WINTER ISLAND AND IGLOOLIK.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ACCOUNT OF THE ESQUIMAUX.
+
+
+The number of individuals composing the tribe of Esquimaux assembled at
+Winter Island and Igloolik was two hundred and nineteen, of whom
+sixty-nine were men, seventy-seven women, and seventy-three children.
+Two or three of the men, from their appearance and infirmities, as well
+as from the age of their children, must have been near seventy; the rest
+were from twenty to about fifty. The majority of the women were
+comparatively young, or from twenty to five-and-thirty, and three or
+four only seemed to have reached sixty. Of the children, about one third
+were under four years old, and the rest from that age upward to sixteen
+or seventeen. Out of one hundred and fifty-five individuals who passed
+the winter at Igloolik, we knew of eighteen deaths and of only nine
+births.
+
+The stature of these people is much below that of Europeans in general.
+One man, who was unusually tall, measured five feet ten inches, and the
+shortest was only four feet eleven inches and a half. Of twenty
+individuals of each sex measured at Igloolik, the range was:
+
+
+Men.--From 5 ft. 10 in. to 4 ft. 11 in.
+  The average height, 5 ft. 5-1/3 in.
+Women.--From 5 ft. 3-1/2 in. to 4 ft. 8-3/4 in.
+  The average height, 5 ft. 0-1/2 in.
+
+
+The women, however, generally appear shorter than they really are, both
+from the unwieldy nature of their clothes, and from a habit, which they
+early acquire, of stooping considerably forward in order to balance the
+weight of the child they carry in their hood.
+
+In their figure they are rather well formed than otherwise. Their knees
+are indeed rather large in proportion, but their legs are straight, and
+the hands and feet, in both sexes, remarkably small. The younger
+individuals were all plump, but none of them corpulent; the women
+inclined the most to this last extreme, and their flesh was, even in the
+youngest individuals, quite loose and without firmness.
+
+Their faces are generally round and full, eyes small and black, nose
+also small and sunk far in between the cheek bones, but not much
+flattened. It is remarkable, that one man T=e-~a, his brother, his
+wife, and two daughters, had good Roman noses, and one of the latter was
+an extremely pretty young woman. Their teeth are short, thick, and
+close, generally regular, and in the young persons almost always white.
+The elderly women were still well furnished in this way, though their
+teeth were usually a good deal worn down, probably by the habit of
+chewing the sealskins for making boots.
+
+In the young of both sexes the complexion is clear and transparent, and
+the skin smooth. The colour of the latter, when divested of oil and
+dirt, is scarcely a shade darker than that of a deep brunette, so that
+the blood is plainly perceptible when it mounts into the cheeks. In the
+old folks, whose faces were much wrinkled, the skin appears of a much
+more dingy hue, the dirt being less easily, and, therefore, less
+frequently dislodged from them.
+
+By whatever peculiarities, however, they may in general be
+distinguished, they are by no means an ill-looking people; and there
+were among them three or four grown-up persons of each sex, who, when
+divested of their skin-dresses, their tattooing, and, above all, of
+their dirt, might have been considered pleasing-looking, if not
+handsome, people in any town in Europe. This remark applies more
+generally to the children also; several of whom had complexions nearly
+as fair as that of Europeans, and whose little bright black eyes gave a
+fine expression to their countenances.
+
+The hair, both of males and females, is black, glossy, and straight. The
+men usually wear it rather long, and allow it to hang about their heads
+in a loose and slovenly manner. The women pride themselves extremely on
+the length and thickness of their hair; and it was not without
+reluctance on their part, and the same on that of their husbands, that
+they were induced to dispose of any of it. Some of the women's hair was
+tolerably fine, but would not, in this respect, bear a comparison with,
+that of an Englishwoman. In both sexes it is full of vermin, which they
+are in the constant habit of picking out and eating; a man and his wife
+will sit for an hour together performing for each other that friendly
+office. The women have a comb, which, however, seems more intended for
+ornament than use, as we seldom or never observed them comb their hair.
+When a woman's husband is ill, she wears her hair loose, and cuts it off
+as a sign of mourning if he dies; a custom agreeing with that of the
+Greenlanders. The men wear the hair on the upper lip and chin from an
+inch to an inch and a half in length, and some were distinguished by a
+little tuft between the chin and lower lip.
+
+In winter every individual, when in the open air, wears two jackets, of
+which the outer one (_C=app~e t=egg~a_) has the hair outside,
+and the inner one (_At-t=e=ega_) next the body. Immediately on
+entering the hut the men take off their outer jacket, beat the snow from
+it, and lay it by. The upper garment of the females, besides being cut
+according to a regular and uniform pattern, and sewed with exceeding
+neatness, which is the case with all the dresses of these people, has
+also the flaps ornamented in a very becoming manner by a neat border of
+deerskin, so arranged as to display alternate breadths of white and dark
+fur. This is, moreover, usually beautified by a handsome fringe,
+consisting of innumerable long narrow threads of leather hanging down
+from it. This ornament is not uncommon also in the outer jackets of the
+men. When seal-hunting, they fasten up the tails of their jackets with a
+button behind.
+
+Their breeches, of which in winter they also wear two pairs, and
+similarly disposed as to the fur, reach below the knee, and fasten with
+a string drawn tight round the waist. Though these have little or no
+waistband, and do not come very high, the depth of the jackets, which
+considerably overlap them, serves very effectually to complete the
+covering of the body.
+
+Their legs and feet are so well clothed, that no degree of cold can well
+affect them. When a man goes on a sealing excursion, he first puts on a
+pair of deerskin boots (_All~ekt=eeg~a_) with the hair inside, and
+reaching to the knee, where they tie. Over these come a pair of shoes of
+the same material; next a pair of dressed sealskin boots, perfectly
+water-tight; and over all a corresponding pair of shoes, tying round the
+instep. These last are made just like the moccasin of a North American
+Indian, being neatly crimped at the toes, and having several serpentine
+pieces of hide sewn across the sole to prevent wearing. The water-tight
+boots and shoes are made of the skin of the small seal (_neitiek_),
+except the soles, which consist of the skin of the large seal (_oguk~e_);
+this last is also used for their fishing-lines. When the men are not
+prepared to encounter wet, they wear an outer boot of deerskin, with the
+hair outside.
+
+The inner boot of the women, unlike that of the men, is loose round the
+leg, coming as high as the knee-joint behind, and in front carried up,
+by a long pointed flap, nearly to the waist, and there fastened to the
+breeches. The upper boot, with the hair as usual outside, corresponds
+with the other in shape, except that it is much more full, especially on
+the outer side, where it bulges out so preposterously as to give the
+women the most awkward, bow-legged appearance imaginable. This
+superfluity of boot has probably originated in the custom, still common
+among the native women of Labrador, of carrying their children in them.
+We were told that these women sometimes put their children there to
+sleep; but the custom must be rare among them, as we never saw it
+practised. These boots, however, form their principal pockets, and
+pretty capacious ones they are. Here, also, as in jackets, considerable
+taste is displayed in the selection of different parts of the deerskin,
+alternate strips of dark and white being placed up and down the sides
+and front by way of ornament. The women also wear a moccasin
+(_Itteeg~eg~a_) over all in the winter time.
+
+To judge by the eagerness with which the women received our beads,
+especially small white ones, as well as any other article of that kind,
+we might suppose them very fond of personal ornament. Yet of all that
+they obtained from us in this way at Winter Island, scarcely anything
+ever made its appearance again during our stay there, except a ring or
+two on the finger, and some bracelets of beads round the wrist; the
+latter of these was probably considered as a charm of some kind or
+other. We found among them, at the time of our first intercourse, a
+number of black and white beads, disposed alternately on a string of
+sinew, and worn in this manner. They would also sometimes hang a small
+bunch of these, or a button or two, in front of their jackets and hair;
+and many of them, in the course of the second winter, covered the whole
+front of their jackets with the beads they received from us.
+
+Among their personal ornaments must be reckoned that mode of marking the
+body called tattooing, which, of the customs not essential to the
+comfort or happiness of mankind, is perhaps the most extensively
+practised throughout the world. Among these people it seems to be an
+ornament of indispensable importance to the women, not one of them being
+without it. The operation is performed about the age of ten, or
+sometimes earlier, and has nothing to do with marriage, except that,
+being considered in the light of a personal charm, it may serve to
+recommend them as wives. The parts of the body thus marked are their
+faces, arms, hands, thighs, and in some few women the breasts, but never
+the feet, as in Greenland. The operation, which, by way of curiosity,
+most of our gentlemen had practised on their arms, is very expeditiously
+managed by passing a needle and thread, the latter covered with
+lampblack and oil, under the epidermis, according to a pattern
+previously marked out upon the skin. Several stitches being thus taken
+at once, the thumb is pressed upon the part while the thread is drawn
+through, by which means the colouring matter is retained, and a
+permanent dye of a blue tinge imparted to the skin. A woman expert at
+this business will perform it very quickly and with great regularity,
+but seldom without drawing blood in many places, and occasioning some
+inflammation. Where so large a portion of the surface of the body is to
+be covered, it must become a painful as well as tedious process,
+especially as, for want of needles, they often use a strip of whalebone
+as a substitute. For those parts where a needle cannot conveniently be
+passed under the skin, they use the method by puncture, which is common
+in other countries, and by which our seamen frequently mark their hands
+and arms. Several of the men were marked on the back part of their
+hands; and with them we understood it to be considered as a _souvenir_
+of some distant deceased person who had performed it.
+
+In their winter habitations, I have before mentioned that the only
+materials employed are snow and ice; the latter being made use of for
+the windows alone. The work is commenced by cutting from a drift of hard
+and compact snow a number of oblong slabs, six or seven inches thick and
+about two feet in length, and laying them edgeways on a level spot, also
+covered with snow, in a circular form, and of a diameter from eight to
+fifteen feet, proportioned to the number of occupants the hut is to
+contain. Upon this as a foundation is laid a second tier of the same
+kind, but with the pieces inclining a little inward, and made to fit
+closely to the lower slabs and to each other by running a knife adroitly
+along the under part and sides. The top of this tier is now prepared for
+the reception of a third, by squaring it off smoothly with a knife, all
+which is dexterously performed by one man standing within the circle and
+receiving the blocks of snow from those employed in cutting them
+without. When the wall has attained a height of four or five feet, it
+leans so much inward as to appear as if about to tumble every moment;
+but the workmen still fearlessly lay their blocks of snow upon it, until
+it is too high any longer to furnish the materials to the builder in
+this manner. Of this he gives notice by cutting a hole close to the
+ground in that part where the door is intended to be, which is near the
+south side, and through this the snow is now passed. Thus they continue
+till they have brought the sides nearly to meet in a perfect and
+well-constructed dome, sometimes nine or ten feet high in the centre;
+and this they take considerable care in finishing, by fitting the last
+block or _keystone_ very nicely in the centre, dropping it into its
+place from the outside, though it is still done by the man within. The
+people outside are in the mean time occupied in throwing up snow with
+the _p~oo=all~er=ay_ or snow shovel, and in stuffing in little
+wedges of snow where holes have been accidentally left.
+
+The builder next proceeds to let himself out by enlarging the proposed
+doorway into the form of a Gothic arch, three feet high and two feet and
+a half wide at the bottom, communicating with which they construct two
+passages, each from ten to twelve feet long and from four to five feet
+in height, the lowest being that next the hut. The roofs of these
+passages are sometimes arched, but more generally made flat by slabs
+laid on horizontally. In first digging the snow for building the hut,
+they take it principally from the part where the passages are to be
+made, which purposely brings the floor of the latter considerably lower
+than that of the hut, but in no part do they dig till the bare ground
+appears.
+
+The work just described completes the walls of a hut, if a single
+apartment only be required; but if, on account of relationship, or from
+any other cause, several families are to reside under one roof, the
+passages are made common to all, and the first apartment (in that case
+made smaller) forms a kind of antechamber, from which you go through an
+arched doorway five feet high into the inhabited apartments. When there
+are three of these, which is generally the case, the whole building,
+with its adjacent passages, forms a tolerably regular cross.
+
+For the admission of light into the huts, a round hole is cut on one
+side of the roof of each apartment, and a circular plate of ice, three
+or four inches thick and two feet in diameter, let into it. The light is
+soft and pleasant, like that transmitted through ground glass, and it is
+quite sufficient for every purpose. When, after some time, these
+edifices become surrounded by drift, it is only by the windows, as I
+have before remarked, that they could be recognised as human
+habitations. It may, perhaps, then be imagined how singular is their
+external appearance at night, when they discover themselves only by a
+circular disk of light transmitted through the windows from the lamps
+within.
+
+The next thing to be done is to raise a bank of snow, two and a half
+feet high, all round the interior of each apartment, except on the side
+next the door. This bank, which is neatly squared off, forms their beds
+and fireplace, the former occupying the sides, and the latter the end
+opposite the door. The passage left open up to the fireplace is between
+three and four feet wide. The beds are arranged by first covering the
+snow with a quantity of small stones, over which are laid their paddles,
+tentpoles, and some blades of whalebone: above these they place a number
+of little pieces of network, made of thin slips of whalebone, and lastly
+a quantity of twigs of birch[008] and of the _andromeda tetragona_.
+Their deerskins, which are very numerous, can now be spread without risk
+of their touching the snow; and such a bed is capable of affording not
+merely comfort, but luxurious repose, in spite of the rigour of the
+climate. The skins thus used as blankets are made of a large size and
+bordered, like some of the jackets, with a fringe of long, narrow slips
+of leather, in which state a blanket is called _k=eipik_.
+
+The fire belonging to each family consists of a single lamp, or shallow
+vessel of _lapis ollaris_, its form being the lesser segment of a
+circle. The wick, composed of dry moss rubbed between the hands till it
+is quite inflammable, is disposed along the edge of the lamp on the
+straight side, and a greater or smaller quantity lighted, according to
+the heat required or the fuel that can be afforded. When the whole
+length of this, which is sometimes above eighteen inches, is kindled, it
+affords a most brilliant and beautiful light, without any perceptible
+smoke or any offensive smell. The lamp is made to supply itself with
+oil, by suspending a long, thin slice of whale, seal, or seahorse
+blubber near the flame, the warmth of which causes the oil to drip into
+the vessel until the whole is extracted. Immediately over the lamp is
+fixed a rude and rickety framework of wood, from which their pots are
+suspended, and serving also to sustain a large hoop of bone, having a
+net stretched tight within it. This contrivance, called _Inn~et~at_,
+is intended for the reception of any wet things, and is usually loaded
+with boots, shoes, and mittens.
+
+The fireplace just described as situated at the upper end of the
+apartment, has always two lamps facing different ways, one for each
+family occupying the corresponding bedplace. There is frequently, also,
+a smaller and less-pretending establishment on the same model--lamp,
+pot, net, and all--in one of the corners next the door; for one
+apartment sometimes contains three families, which are always closely
+related; and no married woman, or even a widow without children, is
+without her separate fireplace.
+
+With all the lamps lighted and the hut full of people and dogs, a
+thermometer placed on the net over the fire indicated a temperature of
+38°; when removed two or three feet from this situation, it fell to 31°;
+and, placed close to the wall, stood at 23°, the temperature of the open
+air at the time being 25° below _zero_. A greater degree of warmth than
+this produces extreme inconvenience by the dropping from the roofs. This
+they endeavour to obviate by applying a little piece of snow to the
+place from which a drop proceeds, and this adhering, is for a short time
+an effectual remedy; but for several weeks in the spring, when the
+weather is too warm for these edifices, and still too cold for tents,
+they suffer much on this account.
+
+The most important, perhaps, of the domestic utensils, next to the lamp
+already described, are the _=o=otk~o~os~e~eks_, or stone
+pots for cooking. These are hollowed out of solid _lapis ollaris_, of an
+oblong form, wider at the top than at the bottom all made in similar
+proportion; though of various sizes corresponding with the dimensions
+of the lamp which burns under it. The pot is suspended by a line of
+sinew at each end to the framework over the fire, and thus becomes so
+black on every side that the original colour of the stone is in no part
+discernible. Many of them were cracked quite across in several places,
+and mended by sewing with sinew or rivets of copper, iron, or lead, so
+as, with the assistance of a lashing and a due proportion of dirt, to
+render them quite watertight.
+
+Besides the ootkooseeks, they have circular and oval vessels of
+whalebone, of various sizes, which, as well as their ivory knives made
+out of a walrus's tusk, are precisely similar to those described on the
+western coast of Baffin's Bay in 1820. They have also a number of
+smaller vessels of skin sewed neatly together; and a large basket of the
+same material, resembling a common sieve in shape, but with the bottom
+close and tight, is to be seen in every apartment. Under every lamp
+stands a sort of "save-all," consisting of a small skin basket for
+catching the oil that falls over. Almost every family was in possession
+of a wooden tray very much resembling those used to carry butcher's meat
+in England, and of nearly the same dimensions, which we understood them
+to have procured by way of Noowook. They had a number of the bowls or
+cups already once or twice alluded to as being made out of the thick
+root of the horn of the musk-ox. Of the smaller part of the same horn
+they also form a convenient drinking-cup, sometimes turning it up
+artificially about one third from the point, so as to be almost parallel
+to the other part, and cutting it full of small notches as a
+convenience in grasping it. These or any other vessels for drinking they
+call _Imm=o=ochiuk_.
+
+Besides the ivory knives, the men were well supplied with a much more
+serviceable kind, made of iron, and called _panna_. The form of this
+knife is very peculiar, being seven inches long, two and a quarter
+broad, quite straight and flat, pointed at the end, and ground equally
+sharp at both edges; this is firmly secured into a handle of bone or
+wood about a foot long, by two or three iron rivets, and has all the
+appearance of a most destructive spearhead, but is nevertheless put to
+no other purpose than that of a very useful knife, which the men are
+scarcely ever without, especially on their sealing excursions. For
+these, and several knives of European form, they are probably indebted
+to an indirect communication with our factories in Hudson's Bay. The
+same may be observed of the best of their women's knives (_ooloo_), on
+one of which, of a larger size than usual, were the names of "Wild and
+Sorby." When of their own manufacture, the only iron part was a little
+narrow slip let into the bone and secured by rivets.
+
+Of the horn of the musk-ox they make also very good spoons, much like
+ours in shape; and I must not omit to mention their marrow spoons
+(_patt=ekniuk_, from _p=att~ek_, marrow), made out of long,
+narrow, hollowed pieces of bone, of which every housewife has a bunch of
+half a dozen or more tied together, and generally attached to her
+needle-case.
+
+For the purpose of obtaining fire, the Esquimaux use two lumps of common
+iron pyrites, from which sparks are struck into a little leathern case
+containing moss well dried and rubbed between the hands. If this tinder
+does not readily catch, a small quantity of the white floss of the seed
+of the ground-willow is laid above the moss. As soon as a spark has
+caught, it is gently blown till the fire has spread an inch around,
+when, the pointed end of a piece of oiled wick being applied, it soon
+bursts into a flame--the whole process having occupied perhaps two or
+three minutes.
+
+In enumerating the articles of their food, we might, perhaps, give a
+list of every animal inhabiting these regions, as they certainly will,
+at times, eat any one of them. Their principal dependance, however, is
+on the reindeer (_t=o=okto~o_); musk-ox (_=o=om~ingm~uk_),
+in the parts where this animal is found; whale (_=agg~aw~ek_);
+walrus (_=ei-~u-~ek_); the large and small seal (_=og~uke_ and
+_n~eitiek_); and two sorts of salmon, the _=ew~ee-t=ar~oke_
+(_salmo alpinus?_) and _ichl=u~ow~oke_. The latter is taken by
+hooks in fresh-water lakes, and the former by spearing in the shoal
+water of certain inlets of the sea. Of all these animals, they can only
+procure in the winter the walrus and small seal upon this part of the
+coast; and these at times, as we have seen, in scarcely sufficient
+quantity for their subsistence.
+
+They certainly, in general, prefer eating their meat cooked, and, while
+they have fuel, they usually boil it; but this is a luxury, and not a
+necessary to them. Oily as the nature of their principal food is, yet
+they commonly take an equal proportion of lean to their fat, and, unless
+very hungry, do not eat it otherwise. Oil they seldom or never use in
+any way as a part of their general diet; and even our butter, of which
+they were fond, they would not eat without a due quantity of
+bread.[009] They do not like salt meat as well as fresh, and never use
+salt themselves; but ship's pork or even a red herring did not come
+amiss to them. Of pea-soup they would eat as much as the sailors could
+afford to give them; and that word was the only one, with the exception
+of our names, which many of them ever learned in English. Among their
+own luxuries must be mentioned a rich soup called k=ay~o, made of
+blood, gravy, and water, and eaten quite hot.
+
+Their only drink is water; and of this, when they can procure it, they
+swallow an inconceivable quantity; so that one of the principal
+occupations of the women during the winter is the thawing of snow in the
+ootkooseeks for this purpose. They cut it into thin slices, and are
+careful to have it clean, on which account they will bring it from a
+distance of fifty yards from the huts. They have an extreme dislike to
+drinking water much above the temperature of 32°. In eating their meals,
+the mistress of the family, having previously cooked the meat, takes a
+large lump out of the pot with her fingers, and hands it to her husband,
+who, placing a part of it between his teeth, cuts it off with a large
+knife in that position, and then passes the knife and meat together to
+his next neighbour. In cutting off a mouthful of meat, the knife passes
+so close to their lips, that nothing but constant habit could ensure
+them from the danger of the most terrible gashes; and it would make an
+English mother shudder to see the manner in which children five or six
+years old are at all times freely trusted with a knife to be used in
+this way.
+
+The length of one of the best of seven canoes belonging to these
+Esquimaux was twenty-five feet, including a narrow-pointed projection,
+three feet long at each end, which turns a little upward from the
+horizontal. The extreme breadth, which is just before the circular hole,
+was twenty-one inches, and the depth ten inches and a half. The plane of
+the upper surface of the canoe, except in the two extreme projections,
+bends downward a little from the centre towards the head and stern,
+giving it the appearance of what in ships is called "broken-backed." The
+gunwales are of fir, in some instances of one piece, three or four
+inches broad in the centre, and tapering gradually away towards the
+ends. The timbers, as well as the fore-and-aft connecting pieces, are of
+the same material, the former being an inch square, and sometimes so
+close together as to require between forty and fifty of them in one
+canoe: which, when thus "in frame," is one of the prettiest things of
+the kind that can be imagined. The skin with which the canoe is covered
+is exclusively that of the _neitiek_, prepared by scraping off the hair
+and fat with an _ooloo_, and stretching it tight on a frame over the
+fire; after which and a good deal of chewing, it is sown on by the women
+with admirable neatness and strength. Their paddles have a blade at each
+end, the whole length being nine feet and a half; the blades are covered
+with a narrow plate of bone round the ends to secure them from
+splitting; they are always made of fir, and generally of several pieces
+scarfed and woolded together.
+
+In summer they rest their canoes upon two small stones raised four feet
+from the ground, and in winter on a similar structure of snow; in one
+case to allow them to dry freely, and in the other to prevent the
+snowdrift from covering, and the dogs from eating them. The difficulty
+of procuring a canoe may be concluded from the circumstance of there
+being at Winter Island twenty men able to manage one, and only seven
+canoes among them. Of these, indeed, only three or four were in good
+repair; the rest being wholly or in part stripped of the skin, of which
+a good deal was occasionally cut off during the winter, to make boots,
+shoes, and mittens for our people. We found no _oomiak_, or woman's
+boat, among them, and understood that they were not in the habit of
+using them, which may in part be accounted for by their passing so much
+of the summer in the interior; they knew very well, however, what they
+were, and made some clumsy models of them for our people.
+
+In the weapons used for killing their game there is considerable
+variety, according to the animal of which they are in pursuit. The most
+simple of these is the _=o=on~ak_, which they use only for killing
+the small seal. It consists of a light staff of wood, four feet in
+length, having at one end the point of a narwhal's horn, from ten to
+eighteen inches long, firmly secured by rivets and wooldings; at the
+other end is a smaller and less effective point of the same kind. To
+prevent losing the ivory part in case of the wood breaking, a stout
+thong runs along the whole length of the wood, each end passing through
+a hole in the ivory, and the bight secured in several places to the
+staff. In this weapon, as far as it has yet been described, there is
+little art or ingenuity displayed; but a considerable degree of both in
+an appendage called _si=atk~o_, consisting of a piece of bone three
+inches long, and having a point of iron at one end, and at the other end
+a small hole or socket to receive the point of the oonak. Through the
+middle of this instrument is secured the _=allek_, or line of thong,
+of which every man has, when sealing, a couple of coils, each from four
+to six fathoms long, hanging at his back.
+
+When a seal is seen, the siatko is taken from a little leathern case, in
+which, when out of use, it is carefully enclosed, and attached by its
+socket to the point of the spear; in this situation it is retained by
+bringing the allek tight down and fastening it round the middle of the
+staff by what seamen call a "slippery-hitch," which may instantly be
+disengaged by pulling on the other end of the line. As soon as the spear
+has been thrown and the animal struck, the siatko is thus purposely
+separated; and being slung by the middle, now performs very effectually
+the important office of a barb, by turning at right angles to the
+direction in which it has entered the orifice. This device is in its
+principle superior even to our barb; for the instant any strain is put
+upon the line, it acts like a toggle, opposing its length to a wound
+only as wide as its own breadth.
+
+The _=akl~eak_ or _akl=e=eg~a_, used for the large seal, has a
+blown bladder attached to the staff, for the purpose of impeding the
+animal in the water.
+
+The third and largest weapon is that called _katteelik_, with which the
+walrus and whale are attacked. The staff of this is not longer, but much
+stouter than that of the others, especially towards the middle, where
+there is a small shoulder of ivory securely lashed to it for the thumb
+to rest against, and thus to give additional force in throwing or
+thrusting the spear. The ivory point of this weapon is made to fit into
+a socket at the end of the staff, where it is secured by double thongs
+in such a manner as steadily to retain its position when a strain is put
+upon it in the direction of its length, but immediately disengaging
+itself with a sort of spring when any lateral strain endangers its
+breaking. The siatko is always used with this spear; and to the end of
+the allek, when the animal pursued is in open water, they attach a whole
+sealskin (_h~ow-w=ut-t~a_), inflated like a bladder, for the
+purpose of tiring it out in its progress through the water.
+
+They have a spear called _~ippoo_ for killing deer in the water. They
+describe it as having a light staff and a small head of iron; but they
+had none of these so fitted in the winter. The _n=ug~uee_, or dart
+for birds, has, besides its two ivory prongs at the end of the staff,
+three divergent ones in the middle of it, with several small double
+barbs upon them turning inward. The spear for salmon or other fish,
+called _k=ak~eew~ei_, consists of a wooden staff, with a spike of
+bone or ivory, three inches long, secured at one end. On each side of
+the spike is a curved prong, much like that of a pitchfork, but made of
+flexible horn, which gives them a spring, and having a barb on the inner
+part of the point turning downward. Their fishhooks (_kakli=okio_)
+consist only of a nail crooked and pointed at one end, the other being
+let into a piece of ivory to which the line is attached. A piece of
+deer's horn or curved bone only a foot long is used as a rod, and
+completes this very rude part of their fishing-gear.
+
+Of their mode of killing seals in the winter I have already spoken in
+the course of the foregoing narrative, as far as we were enabled to make
+ourselves acquainted with it. In their summer exploits on the water, the
+killing of the whale is the most arduous undertaking which they have to
+perform; and one cannot sufficiently admire the courage and activity
+which, with gear apparently so inadequate, it must require to accomplish
+this business. Okotook, who was at the killing of two whales in the
+course of a single summer, and who described the whole of it quite _con
+amore_, mentioned the names of thirteen men who, each in his canoe, had
+assisted on one of these occasions. When a fish is seen lying on the
+water, they cautiously paddle up astern of him, till a single canoe,
+preceding the rest, comes close to him on one quarter, so as to enable
+the man to drive the _katteelik_ into the animal with all the force of
+both arms. This having the _siatko_, a long _allek_, and the inflated
+sealskin attached to it, the whale immediately dives, taking the whole
+apparatus with him except the katteelik, which, being disengaged in the
+manner before described, floats to the surface, and is picked up by its
+owner. The animal reappearing after some time, all the canoes again
+paddle towards him, some warning being given by the sealskin buoy
+floating on the surface. Each man being furnished like the first, they
+repeat the blows as often as they find opportunity, till perhaps, every
+line has been thus employed. After pursuing him in this manner sometimes
+for half a day, he is at length so wearied by the resistance of the
+buoys, and exhausted by the loss of blood, as to be obliged to rise more
+and more often to the surface, when, by frequent wounds with their
+spears, they succeed in killing him, and tow their prize in triumph to
+the shore.
+
+In attacking the walrus in the water they use the same gear, but much
+more caution than with the whale, always throwing the _katteelik_ from
+some distance, lest the animal should attack the canoe and demolish it
+with his tusks. The walrus is, in fact, the only animal with which they
+use any caution of this kind. They like the flesh better than that of
+the seal; but venison is preferred by them to either of these, and,
+indeed, to any other kind of meat.
+
+At Winter Island they carefully preserved the heads of all the animals
+killed during the winter, except two or three of the walrus, which we
+obtained with great difficulty. As the blood of the animals which they
+kill is all used as food of the most luxurious kind, they are careful to
+avoid losing any portion of it; for this purpose they carry with
+them on their excursions a little instrument of ivory called
+_t~oop=o=ot~a_, in form and size exactly resembling a "twenty-penny"
+nail, with which they stop up the orifice made by the spear, by
+thrusting it through the skin by the sides of the wound, and securing
+it with a twist.
+
+One of the best of their bows was made of a single piece of fir, four
+feet eight inches in length, flat on the inner side and rounded on the
+outer, being five inches in girth about the middle, where, however, it
+is strengthened on the concave side, when strung, by a piece of bone ten
+inches long, firmly secured by treenails of the same material. At each
+end of the bow is a knob of bone, or sometimes of wood covered with
+leather, with a deep notch for the reception of the string. The only
+wood which they can procure, not possessing sufficient elasticity
+combined with strength, they ingeniously remedy the defect by securing
+to the back of the bow, and to the knobs at each end, a quantity of
+small lines, each composed of a plat or "sinnet" of three sinews. The
+number of lines thus reaching from end to end is generally about thirty;
+but, besides these, several others are fastened with hitches round the
+bow, in pairs, commencing eight inches from one end, and again united at
+the same distance from the other, making the number of strings in the
+middle of the bow sometimes amount to sixty. These being put on with the
+bow bent somewhat the contrary way, produce a spring so strong as to
+require considerable force as well as knack in stringing it, and giving
+the requisite velocity to the arrow. The bow is completed by a woolding
+round the middle, and a wedge or two, here and there, driven in to
+tighten it. A bow in one piece is, however, very rare; they generally
+consist of from two to five pieces of bone of unequal lengths, secured
+together by rivets and treenails.
+
+The arrows vary in length from twenty to thirty inches, according to the
+materials that can be commanded. About two thirds of the whole length
+is of fir rounded, and the rest of bone let by a socket into the wood,
+and having a head of thin iron, or more commonly of slate, secured into
+a slit by two treenails. Towards the opposite end of the arrow are two
+feathers, generally of the spotted oval, not very neatly lashed on. The
+bowstring consists of from twelve to eighteen small lines of three-sinew
+sinnet, having a loose twist, and with a separate becket of the same
+size for going over the knobs at the end of the bow.
+
+We tried their skill in archery by getting them to shoot at a mark for a
+prize, though with bows in extremely bad order on account of the frost,
+and their hands very cold. The mark was two of their spears stuck
+upright in the snow, their breadth being three inches and a half. At
+twenty yards they struck this every time; at thirty, sent the arrows
+always within an inch or two of it; and at forty or fifty yards, I
+should think, would generally hit a fawn if the animal stood still.
+These weapons are perhaps sufficient to inflict a mortal wound at
+something more than that distance, for which, however, a strong arm
+would be required. The animals which they kill with the bow and arrow
+for their subsistence are principally the musk-ox and deer, and less
+frequently the bear, wolf, fox, hare, and some of the smaller animals.
+
+The reindeer are killed by the Esquimaux in great abundance in the
+summer season, partly by driving them from islands or narrow necks of
+land into the sea, and then spearing them from their canoes; and partly
+by shooting them from behind heaps of stones raised for the purpose of
+watching them, and imitating their peculiar bellow or grunt. Among the
+various artifices which they employ for this purpose, one of the most
+ingenious consists in two men walking directly _from_ the deer they wish
+to kill, which almost always follows them. As soon as they arrive at a
+large stone, one of the men hides behind it with his bow, while the
+other continuing to walk on, soon leads the deer within range of his
+companion's arrows. They are also very careful to keep to leeward of the
+deer, and will scarcely go out after them at all when the weather is
+calm. For several weeks in the course of the summer, some of these
+people almost entirely give up their fishery on the coast, retiring to
+the banks of lakes several miles in the interior, which they represent
+as large and deep, and abounding with salmon, while the pasture near
+them affords good feeding to numerous herds of deer.
+
+The distance to which these people extend their inland migrations, and
+the extent of coast of which they possess a personal knowledge, are
+really very considerable. A great number of them, who were born at
+Amitioke and Igloolik, had been to _Noowook_, or nearly as far south as
+Chesterfield Inlet, which is about the _ne plus ultra_ of their united
+knowledge in a southerly direction. Okotook and a few others of the
+Winter Island tribe had extended their peregrinations a considerable
+distance to the northward, over the large insular piece of land to which
+we have applied the name of Cockburn Island; which they described as
+high land, and the resort of numerous reindeer. By the information
+afterward obtained when nearer the spot, we had reason to suppose this
+land must reach beyond the seventy-second degree of latitude in a
+northerly direction; so that these people possess a personal knowledge
+of the Continent of America and its adjacent islands, from that parallel
+to Chesterfield Inlet in 63-3/4°, being a distance of more than five
+hundred miles reckoned in a direct line, besides the numerous turnings
+and windings of the coast along which they are accustomed to travel.
+Ewerat and some others had been a considerable distance up the Wager
+River; but no record had been preserved among them of Captain
+Middleton's visit to that inlet about the middle of the last century.
+
+Of the Indians they know enough by tradition to hold them in
+considerable dread, on account of their cruel and ferocious manners.
+When, on one occasion, we related the circumstances of the inhuman
+massacre described by Hearne, they crowded round us in the hut,
+listening with mute and almost breathless attention; and the mothers
+drew their children closer to them, as if to guard them from the
+dreadful catastrophe.
+
+The Esquimaux take some animals in traps, and by a very ingenious
+contrivance of this kind they caught two wolves at Winter Island. It
+consists of a small house built of ice, at one end of which a door, made
+of the same plentiful material, is fitted to slide up and down in a
+groove; to the upper part of this a line is attached, and, passing over
+the roof, is let down into the trap at the inner end, and there held by
+slipping an eye in the end of it over a peg of ice left for the purpose.
+Over the peg, however, is previously placed a loose grummet, to which
+the bait is fastened, and a false roof placed over all to hide the line.
+The moment the animal drags at the bait, the grummet slips off the peg,
+bringing with it the line that held up the door, and this, falling down,
+closes the trap and secures him,
+
+A trap for birds is formed by building a house of snow just large enough
+to contain one person, who closes himself up in it. On the top is left a
+small aperture, through which the man thrusts one of his hands to secure
+the bird the moment he alights to take away a bait of meat laid beside
+it. It is principally gulls that are taken thus; and the boys sometimes
+amuse themselves in this manner. A trap in which they catch foxes has
+been mentioned in another place.
+
+The sledges belonging to these Esquimaux were in general large and
+heavily constructed, being more adapted to the carriage of considerable
+burdens than to very quick travelling. They varied in size, being from
+six feet and a half to nine feet in length, and from eighteen inches to
+two feet in breadth. Some of those at Igloolik were of larger
+dimensions, one being eleven feet in length, and weighing two hundred
+and sixty-eight pounds, and two or three others above two hundred
+pounds. The runners are sometimes made of the right and left jaw-bones
+of a whale; but more commonly of several pieces of wood or bone scarfed
+and lashed together, the interstices being filled, to make all smooth
+and firm, with moss stuffed in tight, and then cemented by throwing
+water to freeze upon it. The lower part of the runner is shod with a
+plate of harder bone, coated with fresh-water ice to make it run
+smoothly, and to avoid wear and tear, both which purposes are thus
+completely answered. This coating is performed with a mixture of snow
+and fresh water about half an inch thick, rubbed over it till it is
+quite smooth and hard upon the surface, and this is usually done a few
+minutes before setting out on a journey. When the ice is only in part
+worn off, it is renewed by taking some water into the mouth, and
+spirting it over the former coating. We noticed a sledge which was
+extremely curious, on account of one of the runners and a part of the
+other being constructed without the assistance of wood, iron, or bone of
+any kind. For this purpose, a number of sealskins being rolled up and
+disposed into the requisite shape, an outer coat of the same kind was
+sewed tightly round them; this formed the upper half of the runner, the
+lower part of which consisted entirely of moss moulded while wet into
+the proper form, and being left to freeze, adhering firmly together and
+to the skins. The usual shoeing of smooth ice beneath completed the
+runner, which, for more than six months out of twelve, in this climate,
+was nearly as hard as any wood; and for winter use, no way inferior to
+those constructed of more durable materials. The cross-pieces which form
+the bottom of the sledges are made of bone, wood, or anything they can
+muster. Over these is generally laid a sealskin as a flooring, and in
+the summer time a pair of deer's horns are attached to the sledge as a
+back, which in the winter are removed, to enable them, when stopping, to
+turn the sledge up, so as to prevent the dogs running away with it. The
+whole is secured by lashings of thong, giving it a degree of strength
+combined with flexibility which perhaps no other mode of fastening could
+effect.
+
+The colour of the dogs varies from a white, through brindled, to black
+and white, or almost entirely black. Their hair in the winter is from
+three to four inches long; but, besides this, nature furnishes them,
+during this rigorous season, with a thick under coating of close, soft
+wool, which they begin to cast in the spring. While thus provided, they
+are able to withstand the most inclement weather without suffering from
+the cold; and, at whatever temperature the atmosphere may be, they
+require nothing but a shelter from the wind to make them comfortable,
+and even this they do not always obtain. They are also wonderfully
+enabled to endure the cold even on those parts of the body which are not
+thus protected; for we have seen a young puppy sleeping, with its bare
+paw laid on an ice-anchor, with the thermometer at -30°, which, with one
+of our dogs, would have produced immediate and intense pain, if not
+subsequent mortification. They never bark, but have a long, melancholy
+howl like that of the wolf, and this they will sometimes perform in
+concert for a minute or two together. They are, besides, always snarling
+and fighting among one another, by which several of them are generally
+lame. When much caressed and well fed, they become quite familiar and
+domestic: but this mode of treatment does not improve their qualities as
+animals of draught. Being desirous of ascertaining whether these dogs
+are wolves in a state of domestication, a question which we understood
+to have been the subject of some speculation, Mr. Skeoch, at my request,
+made a skeleton of each, when the number of all the vertebrae was found
+to be the same in both,[010] and to correspond with the well-known
+anatomy of the wolf.
+
+When drawing a sledge, the dogs have a simple harness (_annoo_) of deer
+or seal skin going round the neck by one bight, and another for each of
+the fore legs, with a single thong leading over the back and attached to
+the sledge as a trace. Though they appear at first sight to be huddled
+together without regard to regularity, there is, in fact, considerable
+attention paid to their arrangement, particularly in the selection of a
+dog of peculiar spirit and sagacity, which is allowed, by a longer
+trace, to precede the rest as leader, and to which, in turning to the
+right or left, the driver usually addresses himself. This choice is made
+without regard to age or sex, and the rest of the dogs take precedence
+according to their training or sagacity, the least effective being put
+nearest the sledge. The leader is usually from eighteen to twenty feet
+from the fore part of the sledge, and the hindermost dog about half that
+distance, so that when ten or twelve are running together, several are
+nearly abreast of each other. The driver sits quite low on the fore part
+of the sledge, with his feet overhanging the snow on one side, and
+having in his hand a whip, of which the handle, made either of wood,
+bone, or whalebone, is eighteen inches, and the lash more than as many
+feet in length. The part of the thong next the handle is platted a
+little way down to stiffen it and give it a spring, on which much of its
+use depends; and that which composes the lash is chewed, by the women to
+make it flexible in frosty weather. The men acquire from their youth
+considerable expertness in the use of this whip, the lash of which is
+left to trail along the ground by the side of the sledge, and with which
+they can inflict a very severe blow on any dog at pleasure. Though the
+dogs are kept in training entirely by fear of the whip, and indeed
+without it would soon have their own way, its immediate effect is always
+detrimental to the draught of the sledge; for not only does the
+individual that is struck draw back and slacken his trace, but generally
+turns upon his next neighbour, and this, passing on to the next,
+occasions a general divergency, accompanied by the usual yelping and
+showing of teeth. The dogs then come together again by degrees, and the
+draught of the sledge is accelerated; but even at the best of times, by
+this rude mode of draught, the traces of one third of the dogs form an
+angle of thirty or forty degrees on each side of the direction in which
+the sledge is advancing. Another great inconvenience attending the
+Esquimaux method of putting the dogs to, besides that of not employing
+their strength to the best advantage, is the constant entanglement of
+the traces by the dogs repeatedly doubling under from side to side to
+avoid the whip, so that, after running a few miles, the traces always
+require to be taken off and cleared.
+
+In directing the sledge the whip acts no very essential part, the driver
+for this purpose using certain words, as the carters do with us, to make
+the dogs turn more to the right or left. To these a good leader attends
+with admirable precision, especially if his own name be repeated at the
+same time, looking behind over his shoulder with great earnestness, as
+if listening to the directions of the driver. On a beaten track, or
+even where a single foot or sledge mark is occasionally discernible,
+there is not the slightest trouble in guiding the dogs; for even in the
+darkest night and in the heaviest snowdrift, there is little or no
+danger of their losing the road, the leader keeping his nose near the
+ground, and directing the rest with wonderful sagacity. Where, however,
+there is no beaten track, the best driver among them makes a terribly
+circuitous course, as all the Esquimaux roads plainly show; these
+generally occupying an extent of six miles, when with a horse and sledge
+the journey would scarcely have amounted to five. On rough ground, as
+among hummocks of ice, the sledge would be frequently overturned or
+altogether stopped if the driver did not repeatedly get off, and, by
+lifting or drawing it to one side, steer it clear of those accidents. At
+all times, indeed, except on a smooth and well-made road, he is pretty
+constantly employed thus with his feet, which, together with his
+never-ceasing vociferations and frequent use of the whip, renders the
+driving of one of these vehicles by no means a pleasant or easy task.
+When the driver wishes to stop the sledge, he calls out "Wo, woa,"
+exactly as our carters do; but the attention paid to his command depends
+altogether on his ability to enforce it. If the weight is small and the
+journey homeward, the dogs are not to be thus delayed; the driver is
+therefore obliged to dig his heels into the snow to obstruct their
+progress; and, having thus succeeded in stopping them, he stands up with
+one leg before the foremost crosspiece of the sledge, till, by means of
+laying the whip gently over each dog's head, he has made them all lie
+down. He then takes care not to quit his position; so that, should the
+dogs set off, he is thrown upon the sledge, instead of being left behind
+by them.
+
+With heavy loads the dogs draw best with one of their own people,
+especially a woman, walking a little way ahead; and in this case they
+are sometimes enticed to mend their pace by holding a mitten to the
+mouth, and then making the motion of cutting it with a knife, and
+throwing it on the snow, when the dogs, mistaking it for meat, hasten
+forward to pick it up. The women also entice them from the huts in a
+similar manner. The rate at which they travel depends, of course, on the
+weight they have to draw and the road on which their journey is
+performed. When the latter is level, and very hard and smooth,
+constituting what in other parts of North America is called "good
+sleighing," six or seven dogs will draw from eight to ten hundred
+weight, at the rate of seven or eight miles an hour for several hours
+together, and will easily, under those circumstances, perform a journey
+of fifty or sixty miles a day; on untrodden snow, five-and-twenty or
+thirty miles would be a good day's journey. The same number of well-fed
+dogs, with a weight of only five or six hundred pounds (that of the
+sledge included), are almost unmanageable, and will, on a smooth road,
+run any way they please at the rate of ten miles an hour. The work
+performed by a greater number of dogs is, however, by no means in
+proportion to this; owing to the imperfect mode already described of
+employing the strength of these sturdy creatures, and to the more
+frequent snarling and fighting occasioned by an increase of numbers.
+
+In the summer, when the absence of snow precludes the use of sledges,
+the dogs are still made useful on journeys and hunting excursions, by
+being employed to carry burdens in a kind of saddle-bags laid across
+their shoulders. A stout dog thus accoutred will accompany his master,
+laden with a weight of about twenty or twenty-five pounds.
+
+The scent of the Esquimaux dogs is excellent; and this property is
+turned to account by their masters in finding the seal-holes, which
+these invaluable animals will discover entirely by the smell at a very
+great distance. The track of a single deer upon the snow will in like
+manner set them off at a full gallop when travelling, at least a quarter
+of a mile before they arrive at it, when they are with difficulty made
+to turn in any other direction; and the Esquimaux are accustomed to set
+them after those animals to hunt them down when already wounded with an
+arrow. In killing bears the dogs act a very essential part; and two or
+three of them, when led on by a man, will eagerly attack one of those
+ferocious creatures. An Esquimaux seldom uses any other weapon than his
+spear and _panna_ in this encounter, for which the readiness of the dogs
+may be implied from the circumstance of the word "nen-nook" (bear) being
+often used to encourage them when running in a sledge. Indeed, the only
+animal which they are not eager to chase is the wolf, of which the
+greater part of them seem to have an instinctive dread, giving notice at
+night of their approach to the huts by a loud and continued howl. There
+is not one dog in twenty among them that will voluntarily, or, indeed,
+without a great deal of beating, take the water, if they think it is out
+of their depth, and the few that would do so were spoken of as
+extraordinary exceptions.
+
+The Esquimaux in general treat their dogs much as an unfeeling master
+does his slaves; that is, they take just as much care of them as their
+own interest is supposed to require. The bitches with young are in the
+winter allowed to occupy a part of their own beds, where they are
+carefully attended and fed by the women, who will even supply the young
+ones with meat and water from their mouths as they do their own
+children, and not unfrequently also carry them in their hoods to take
+care of them. It is probably on this account that the dogs are always so
+much attached to the women, who can at any time catch them or entice
+them from the huts when the men fail. Two females that were with young
+on board the Fury in the month of February, brought forth six and seven
+at a litter, and the former number were all females. Their feeding,
+which, both in summer and winter, principally consists of k=a~ow, or
+the skin and part of the blubber of the walrus, is during the latter
+season very precarious, their masters having then but little to spare.
+They therefore become extremely thin at that time of the year, and would
+scarcely be recognised as the same animals as when regularly fed in the
+summer. No wonder, therefore, that they will eat almost anything,
+however tough or filthy, and that neither whipping nor shouting will
+prevent their turning out of the road, even when going at full speed, to
+pick up whatever they espy. When at the huts they are constantly
+creeping in to pilfer what they can, and half the time of the people
+sitting there is occupied in vociferating their names, and driving them
+by most unmerciful blows out of the apartments. The dogs have no water
+to drink during the winter, but lick up some clean snow occasionally as
+a substitute; nor, indeed, if water be offered them, do they care about
+it, unless it happens to be oily. They take great pleasure in rolling in
+clean snow, especially after or during a journey, or when they have been
+confined in a house during the night. Notwithstanding the rough
+treatment which they receive from their masters, their attachment to
+them is very great, and this they display after a short absence by
+jumping up and licking their faces all over with extreme delight. The
+Esquimaux, however, never caress them, and, indeed, scarcely ever take
+any notice of them but when they offend, and they are not then sparing
+in their blows. The dogs have all names, to which they attend with
+readiness, whether drawing in a sledge or otherwise. Their names are
+frequently the same as those of the people, and in some instances are
+given after the relations of their masters, which seems to be considered
+an act of kindness among them. Upon the whole, notwithstanding the
+services performed by these valuable creatures, I am of opinion that art
+cannot well have done less towards making them useful, and that the same
+means in almost any other hands would be employed to greater advantage.
+
+In the disposition of these people, there was, of course, among so many
+individuals, considerable variety as to the minute points; but in the
+general features of their character, which with them are not subject to
+the changes produced by foreign intercourse, one description will nearly
+apply to all.
+
+The virtue which, as respected ourselves, we could most have wished them
+to possess, is honesty; and the impression derived from the early part
+of our intercourse was certainly in this respect a favourable one. A
+great many instances occurred, some of which have been related where
+they appeared even scrupulous in returning articles that did not belong
+to them; and this, too, when detection of a theft, or, at least, of the
+offender, would have been next to impossible. As they grew more familiar
+with us, and the temptations became stronger, they gradually relaxed in
+their honesty, and petty thefts were from time to time committed by
+several individuals, both male and female, among them.
+
+The bustle which any search for stolen goods occasioned at the huts was
+sufficient proof of their understanding the estimation in which the
+crime was held by us. Until the affair was cleared up, they would affect
+great readiness to show every article which they had got from the ships,
+repeating the name of the donor with great warmth, as if offended at our
+suspicions, yet with a half smile on their countenance at our supposed
+credulity in believing them. There was, indeed, at all times, some,
+trick, and cunning in this show of openness and candour; and they would
+at times bring back some very trifling article that had been given them,
+tendering it as a sort of expiation for the theft of another much more
+valuable. When a search was making, they would invent all sorts of lies
+to screen themselves, not caring on whom besides the imputation fell;
+and more than once they directed our people to the apartments of others
+who were innocent of the event in question. If they really knew the
+offender, they were generally ready enough to inform against him, and
+this with an air of affected secrecy and mysterious importance; and, as
+if the dishonesty of another constituted a virtue in themselves, they
+would repeat this information frequently, perhaps for a month afterward,
+setting up their neighbour's offence as a foil to their own pretended
+honesty.
+
+In appreciating the character of these people for honesty, however, we
+must not fail to make allowance for the degree of temptation to which
+they were daily exposed, amid the boundless stores of wealth which our
+ships appeared to them to furnish. To draw a parallel case, we must
+suppose an European of the lower class suffered to roam about amid
+hoards of gold and silver; for nothing less valuable can be justly
+compared with the wood and iron that everywhere presented themselves to
+their view on board the ships. The European and the Esquimaux, who, in
+cases so similar, both resist the temptation to stealing, must be
+considered pretty nearly on a par in the scale of honesty; and, judging
+in this manner, the balance might possibly be found in favour of the
+latter, when compared with any similar number of Europeans taken at
+random from the lower class.
+
+In what has been hitherto said, regard has been had only to their
+dealings with _us_. In their transactions among themselves, there is no
+doubt that, except in one or two privileged cases, such as that of
+destitute widows, the strictest honesty prevails, and that, as regards
+the good of their own community, they are generally honest people. We
+have, in numberless instances, sent presents by one to another, and
+invariably found that they had been faithfully delivered. The manner in
+which their various implements are frequently left outside their huts is
+a proof, indeed, that robbery is scarcely known among them.
+
+In the barter of their various commodities, their dealings with us were
+fair and upright, though latterly they were by no means backward nor
+inexpert in driving a bargain. The absurd and childish exchanges which
+they at first made with our people induced them subsequently to complain
+that the Kabloonas had stolen their things, though the profit had
+eventually been a hundred-fold in their favour. Many such complaints
+were made, when the only fault in the purchaser had been excessive
+liberality, and frequently, also, as a retort, by way of warding off the
+imputation of some dishonesty of their own. A trick not uncommon with
+the women was to endeavour to excite the commiseration, and to tax the
+bounty of one person, by relating some cruel theft of this kind that
+had, as they said, been practised upon them by another. One day, after I
+had bought a knife of Togolat, she told Captain Lyon, in a most piteous
+tone, that _Parree_ had stolen her last _ooloo_, that she did not know
+what to do without one, and at length, coming to the point, begged him
+to give her one. Presently after this, her husband coming in and asking
+for something to eat, she handed him some meat, accompanied by a very
+fine ooloo. Her son, being thus reminded of eating, made the same
+request, upon which a second knife was produced, and immediately after a
+third of the same kind for herself. Captain Lyon, having amused himself
+in watching these proceedings, which so well confirmed the truth of the
+proverb, that certain people ought to have good memories, now took the
+knives, one by one, out of their hands, and, holding them up to Togolat,
+asked her if Parree had not stolen her last ooloo. A hearty laugh all
+round was the only notice taken by them of this direct detection of the
+deceit.
+
+The confidence which they really placed in us was daily and hourly
+evinced by their leaving their fishing gear stuck in the snow all round
+the ships; and not a single instance occurred, to my knowledge, of any
+theft committed on their property. The licking of the articles received
+from us was not so common with them as with Esquimaux in general, and
+this practice was latterly almost entirely left off by them.
+
+Among the unfavourable traits in their character must be reckoned an
+extreme disposition to envy, which displayed itself on various occasions
+during our intercourse with them. If we had made any presents in one
+hut, the inmates of the next would not fail to tell us of it,
+accompanying their remarks with some satirical observations, too
+unequivocally expressed to be mistaken, and generally by some stroke of
+irony directed against the favoured person. If any individual with whom
+we had been intimate happened to be implicated in a theft, the
+circumstance became a subject of satisfaction too manifest to be
+repressed, and we were told of it with expressions of the most
+triumphant exultation on every occasion. It was, indeed, curious, though
+ridiculous, to observe that, even among these simple people, and even in
+this obscure corner of the globe, that little gossip and scandal so
+commonly practised in small societies among us were very frequently
+displayed. This was especially the case with the women, of whom it was
+not uncommon to see a group sitting in a hut for hours together, each
+relating her _quota_ of information, now and then mimicking the persons
+of whom they spoke, and interlarding their stories with jokes evidently
+at the expense of their absent neighbours, though to their own infinite
+amusement.
+
+I have already, in the course of the foregoing narrative, hinted at the
+want of gratitude evinced by these people in their transactions with us.
+Some exceptions, for they were only exceptions, and rare ones, to this
+rule, have been mentioned as they occurred; but in general, however
+considerable the benefit conferred, it was forgotten in a day; and this
+forgetfulness was not unfrequently aggravated by their giving out that
+their benefactor had been so shabby as to make them no present at all.
+Even those individuals who, either from good behaviour or superior
+intelligence, had been most noticed by us, and particularly such as had
+slept on board the ships, and whether in health or sickness had received
+the most friendly treatment from everybody, were in general just as
+indifferent as the rest; and I do not believe that any one among them
+would have gone half a mile out of his road, or have sacrificed the most
+trivial self-gratification to serve us. Okotook and Iligliuk, whom I had
+most loaded with presents, and who had never offered me a single free
+gift in return, put into my hand, at the time of their first removal
+from Winter Island, a dirty, crooked model of a spear, so shabbily
+constructed that it had probably been already refused as an article of
+barter by many of the ship's company. On my accepting this, from an
+unwillingness to affront them, they were uneasy and dissatisfied till I
+had given them something in return, though their hands were full of the
+presents which I had just made them. Selfishness is, in fact, almost
+without exception, their universal characteristic, and the mainspring of
+all their actions, and that, too, of a kind the most direct and
+unamiable that can well be imagined.
+
+In the few opportunities we had of putting their hospitality to the
+test, we had every reason to be pleased with them. Both as to food and
+accommodation, the best they had were always at our service; and their
+attention, both in kind and degree, was everything that hospitality and
+even good-breeding could dictate. The kindly offices of drying and
+mending our clothes, cooking our provision, and thawing snow for our
+drink, were performed by the women with an obliging cheerfulness which
+we shall not easily forget, and which commanded its due share of our
+admiration and esteem. While thus their guest, I have passed an evening
+not only with comfort, but with extreme gratification; for, with the
+women working and singing, their husbands quietly mending their lines,
+the children playing before the door, and the pot boiling over the blaze
+of a cheerful lamp, one might well forget for the time that an Esquimaux
+hut was the scene of this domestic comfort and tranquillity; and I can
+safely affirm with Cartwright,[011] that, while thus lodged beneath
+their roof, I know no people whom I would more confidently trust, as
+respects either my person or my property, than the Esquimaux.
+
+The estimation in which women are held among these people is, I think,
+somewhat greater than is usual in savage life. In their general
+employments they are by no means the drudges that the wives of the
+Greenlander's are said to be; being occupied only in those cares which
+may properly be called domestic, and, as such, are considered the
+peculiar business of the women among the lower classes in civilized
+society. The wife of one of these people, for instance, makes and
+attends the fire, cooks the victuals, looks after the children, and is
+sempstress to her whole family; while her husband is labouring abroad
+for their subsistence. In this respect it is not even necessary to
+except their task Of cutting up the small seals, which is, in truth, one
+of the greatest luxuries and privileges they enjoy; and, even if it were
+esteemed a labour, it could scarcely be considered equivalent to that of
+the women in many of our own fishing-towns, where the men's business is
+at an end the moment the boat touches the beach. The most laborious of
+their tasks occur, perhaps, in making their various journeys, when all
+their goods and chattels are to be removed at once, and when each
+individual must undoubtedly perform a full share of the general labour.
+The women are, however, good walkers and not easily fatigued; for we
+have several times known a young woman of two-and-twenty, with a child
+in her hood, walk twelve miles to the ships and back again the same day,
+for the sake of a little bread-dust and a tin canister. When stationary
+in the winter, they have really almost a sinecure of it, sitting quietly
+in their huts, and having little or no employment for the greater part
+of the day. In short, there are few, if any people, in this state of
+society among whom the women are so well off. They always sit upon the
+beds with their legs doubled under them, and are uneasy in the posture
+usual with us. The men sometimes sit as we do, but more generally with
+their legs crossed before them.
+
+The women do not appear to be, in general, very prolific. Illumea indeed
+had borne seven children, but no second instance of an equal number in
+one family afterward came to our knowledge; three or four is about the
+usual number. They are, according to their own account, in the habit of
+suckling their children to the age of three years; but we have seen a
+child of five occasionally at the breast, though they are dismissed from
+the mother's hood at about the former age. It is not uncommon to see one
+woman suckling the child of another, while the latter happens to be
+employed in her other domestic occupations. They are in the habit, also,
+of feeding their younger children from their own mouths, softening the
+food by mastication, and then turning their heads round so that the
+infant in the hood may put its lips to theirs. The chill is taken from
+water for them in the same manner, and some fathers are very fond of
+taking their children on their knees and thus feeding them. The women
+are more desirous of having sons than daughters, as on the former must
+principally depend their support in old age.
+
+Twelve of the men had each two wives, and some of the younger ones had
+also two betrothed; two instances occurred of the father and son being
+married to sisters. The custom of betrothing children in their infancy
+is commonly practised here, in which respect these people differ from
+the natives of Greenland, where it is comparatively rare. A daughter of
+Arnaneelia, between two and three years old, had long been thus
+contracted to Okotook's son, a hero of six or seven, and the latter used
+to run about the hut calling his intended by the familiar appellation of
+_N~o~oll=e-~a_ (wife), to the great amusement of the parents.
+When a man has two wives there is generally a difference of five or six
+years in their ages. The senior takes her station next the principal
+fire, which comes entirely under her management; and she is certainly
+considered in some respects superior to the other, though they usually
+live together in the utmost harmony. The men sometimes repudiate their
+wives without ceremony, in case of real or supposed bad behaviour as in
+Greenland, but this does not often occur. There was a considerable
+disparity of age between many of the men and their wives, the husband
+being sometimes the oldest by twenty years or more, and this also when
+he had never married any former wife. We knew no instance in which the
+number of a man's wives exceeded two, and, indeed, we had every reason
+to believe that the practice is never admitted among them. We met with a
+singular instance of two men having exchanged wives, in consequence
+merely of one of the latter being pregnant at the time when her husband
+was about to undertake a long journey.
+
+The authority of the husband seems to be sufficiently absolute,
+depending, nevertheless, in great measure on the dispositions of the
+respective parties. Iligliuk was one of those women who seem formed to
+manage their husbands; and we one day saw her take Okotook to task in a
+very masterly style, for having bartered away a good jacket for an old
+useless pistol, without powder or shot. He attempted at first to bluster
+in his turn, and with most women would probably have gained his point.
+But with Iligliuk this would not do; she saw at once the absurdity of
+his bargain, and insisted on his immediately cancelling it, which was
+accordingly done, and no more said about it. In general, indeed, the
+husband maintains his authority, and in several instances of supposed
+bad behaviour in a wife, we saw obedience enforced in a very summary
+manner. It is very rare, however, to see them proceed to this extremity;
+and the utmost extent of a husband's want of tenderness towards his wife
+consists in making her walk or lead the dogs, while he takes his own
+seat in the sledge and rides in comfort. Widows, as might be expected,
+are not so well off as those whose husbands are living, and this
+difference is especially apparent in their clothes, which are usually
+very dirty, thin, and ragged; when, indeed, they happen to have no near
+relatives, their fate, as we have already seen, is still worse than
+this.
+
+I fear we cannot give a very favourable account of the chastity of the
+women, nor of the delicacy of their husbands in this respect. As for the
+latter, it was not uncommon for them to offer their wives as freely for
+sale as a knife or a jacket. Some of the young men informed us that,
+when two of them were absent together on a sealing excursion, they often
+exchanged wives for the time, as a matter of friendly convenience; and,
+indeed, without mentioning any other instances of this nature, it may
+safely be affirmed, that in no country is prostitution carried to
+greater lengths than among these people. The behaviour of most of the
+women when their husbands were absent from the huts, plainly evinced
+their indifference towards them, and their utter disregard of connubial
+fidelity. The departure of the men was usually the signal for throwing
+aside restraint, which was invariably resumed on their return. For this
+event they take care to be prepared by the report of the children, one
+of whom is usually posted on the outside for the purpose of giving due
+notice.
+
+The affection of parents for their children was frequently displayed by
+these people, not only in the mere passive indulgence, and abstinence
+from corporeal punishment, for which Esquimaux have before been
+remarked, but by a thousand playful endearments also, such as parents
+and nurses practise in our own country. Nothing, indeed, can well exceed
+the kindness with which they treat their children, and this trait in
+their character deserves to be the more insisted on, because it is, in
+reality, the only very amiable one which they possess. It must be
+confessed, indeed, that the gentleness and docility of the children are
+such as to occasion their parents little trouble, and to render severity
+towards them quite unnecessary. Even from their earliest infancy they
+possess that quiet disposition, gentleness of demeanour, and uncommon
+evenness of temper, for which, in more mature age, they are for the most
+part distinguished. Disobedience is scarcely ever known; a word or even
+a look from a parent is enough; and I never saw a single instance of
+that frowardness and disposition to mischief which, with our youth, so
+often requires the whole attention of a parent to watch over and to
+correct. They never cry from trifling accidents, and sometimes not even
+from very severe hurts, at which an English child would sob for an hour.
+It is, indeed, astonishing to see the indifference with which, even as
+tender infants, they bear the numerous blows they accidentally receive,
+when carried at their mothers' backs.
+
+They are just as fond of play as any other young people, and of the same
+kind; only that while an English child draws a cart of wood, an
+Esquimaux of the same age has a sledge of whalebone; and for the superb
+baby-house of the former, the latter builds a miniature hut of snow, and
+begs a lighted wick from her mother's lamp to illuminate the little
+dwelling. Their parents make for them, as dolls, little figures of men
+and women, habited in the true Esquimaux costume, as well as a variety
+of other toys, many of them having some reference to their future
+occupations in life, such as canoes, spears, and bows and arrows. The
+drum or tambarine, mentioned by Crantz, is common among them, and used
+not only by the children, but by the grown-up people at some of their
+games. They sometimes serrate the edges of two strips of whalebone and
+whirl them round their heads, just as boys do in England to make the
+same peculiar humming sound. They will dispose one piece of wood on
+another, as an axis, in such a manner that the wind turns it round like
+the arms of a windmill; and so of many other toys of the same simple
+kind. These are the distinct property of the children, who will
+sometimes sell them, while their parents look on without interfering or
+expecting to be consulted.
+
+When not more than eight years old, the boys are taken by their fathers
+on their sealing excursions, where they begin to learn their future
+business; and even at that early age they are occasionally intrusted to
+bring home a sledge and dogs from a distance of several miles over the
+ice. At the age of eleven we see a boy with his water-tight boots and
+moccasins, a spear in his hand, and a small coil of line at his back,
+accompanying the men to the fishery, under every circumstance; and from
+this time his services daily increase in value to the whole tribe. On
+our first intercourse with them we supposed that they would not
+unwillingly part with their children, in consideration of some valuable
+present, but in this we afterward found that we were much mistaken.
+Happening one day to call myself Toolooak's _attata_ (father), and
+pretend that he was to remain with me on board the ship, I received from
+the old man, his father, no other answer than what seemed to be very
+strongly and even satirically implied, by his taking one of our
+gentlemen by the arm and calling him _his_ son; thus intimating that the
+adoption which he proposed was as feasible and as natural as my own.
+
+The custom of adoption is carried to very great lengths among these
+people, and served to explain to us several apparent inconsistencies
+with respect to their relationships. The custom owes its origin entirely
+to the obvious advantage of thus providing for a man's own subsistence
+in advanced life; and it is consequently confined almost without
+exception to the adoption of _sons_, who can alone contribute
+materially to the support of an aged and infirm parent. When a man
+adopts the son of another as his own, he is said to "_tego_," or take
+him; and at whatever age this is done (though it generally happens in
+infancy), the child then lives with his new parents, calls them father
+and mother, is sometimes even ignorant of any such transfer having been
+made, especially if his real parents should be dead; and whether he
+knows it or not, is not always willing to acknowledge any but those with
+whom he lives. The agreement seems to be always made between the
+fathers, and to differ in no respect from the transfer of other
+property, except that none can equal in value the property thus disposed
+of. The good sense, good fortune, or extensive claims of some
+individuals were particularly apparent in this way, from the number of
+sons they had adopted. Toolemak, deriving, perhaps, some advantage from
+his qualifications as Angetkook, had taken care to negotiate for the
+adoption of some of the finest male children of the tribe; a provision
+which now appeared the more necessary, from his having lost four
+children of his own, besides Noogloo, who was one of his _tego'd_ sons.
+In one of the two instances that came to our knowledge of the adoption
+of a female child, both its own parents were still living, nor could we
+ascertain the motive for this deviation from the more general custom.
+
+In their behaviour to old people, whose age or infirmities render them
+useless, and, therefore, burdensome to the community, the Esquimaux
+betray a degree of insensibility bordering on inhumanity, and ill
+repaying the kindness of an indulgent parent. The old man Hikkeiera,
+who was very ill during the winter, used to lie day after day, little
+regarded by his wife, son, daughter, and other relatives, except that
+his wretched state constituted, as they well knew, a forcible claim upon
+our charity; and, with this view, it was sure to excite a whine of
+sympathy and commiseration whenever we visited or spoke of him. When,
+however, a journey of ten miles was to be performed over the ice, they
+left him to find his way with a stick in the best manner he could, while
+the young and robust ones were many of them drawn on sledges. There is,
+indeed, no doubt that, had their necessities or mode of life required a
+longer journey than he could thus have accomplished, they would have
+pushed on like the Indians, and left a fellow-creature to perish. It was
+certainly considered incumbent on his son to support him, and he was
+fortunate in that son's being a very good man; but a few more such
+journeys to a man of seventy would not impose this encumbrance upon him
+much longer. Illumea, the mother of several grown-up children, lived
+also in the same hut with her other relations. She did not, however,
+interfere, as in Greenland, with the management of her son's domestic
+concerns, though his wife was half an idiot. She was always badly
+clothed, and, even in the midst of plenty, not particularly well-fed,
+receiving everything more as an act of charity than otherwise; and she
+will probably be less and less attended to, in proportion as she stands
+more in need of assistance.
+
+The different families appear always to live on good terms with each
+other, though each preserves its own habitation and property as
+distinct and independent as any housekeeper in England. The persons
+living under one roof, who are generally closely related, maintain a
+degree of harmony among themselves which is scarcely ever disturbed. The
+more turbulent passions which, when unrestrained by religious principle,
+or unchecked by the dread of human punishment, usually create so much
+havoc in the world, seem to be very seldom excited in the breasts of
+these people, which renders personal violence or immoderate anger
+extremely rare among them; and one may sit in a hut for a whole day, and
+never observe an angry word or look, except in driving out the dogs. If
+they take an offence, it is more common for them to show it by the more
+quiet method of sulkiness, and this they now and then tried as a matter
+of experiment with us. Okotook, who was often in this humour, once
+displayed it to some of our gentlemen in his own hut, by turning his
+back and frequently repeating the expression "good-by," as a broad hint
+to them to go away. Toolooak was also a little given to this mood, but
+never retained it long, and there was no malice mixed with his
+displeasure. One evening that he slept on board the Fury, he either
+offended Mr. Skeoch, or thought that he had done so, by this kind of
+humour; at all events, they parted for the night without any formal
+reconciliation. The next morning Mr. Skeoch was awakened at an unusually
+early hour, by Toolooak's entering his cabin and taking hold of his hand
+to shake it, by way of making up the supposed quarrel. On a disposition
+thus naturally charitable, what might not Christian education and
+Christian principles effect? Where a joke is evidently intended, I
+never knew people more ready to join in it than these are. If ridiculed
+for any particularity of manner, figure, or countenance, they are sure
+not to be long behind-hand in returning it, and that very often with
+interest. If we were the aggressors in this way, some ironical
+observation respecting the _Kabloonas_ was frequently the consequence;
+and no small portion of wit as well as irony was at times mixed with
+their raillery.
+
+In point of intellect as well as disposition, great variety was, of
+course, perceptible among the different individuals of this tribe; but
+few of them were wanting in that respect. Some, indeed, possessed a
+degree of natural quickness and intelligence which, perhaps, could
+hardly be surpassed in the natives of any country. Iligliuk, though one
+of the least amiable, was particularly thus gifted. When she really
+wished to develop our meaning, she would desire her husband and all the
+rest to hold their tongues, and would generally make it out while they
+were puzzling their heads to no purpose. In returning her answers, the
+very expression of her countenance, though one of the plainest among
+them, was almost of itself sufficient to convey her meaning; and there
+was, in these cases, a peculiarly decisive energy in her manner of
+speaking which was extremely interesting. This woman would, indeed, have
+easily learned anything to which she chose to direct her attention; and
+had her lot been cast in a civilized country instead of this dreary
+region, which serves alike to "freeze the genial current of the soul"
+and body, she would probably have been a very clever person. For want
+of a sufficient object, however, neither she nor any of her companions
+ever learned a dozen words of English, except our names, with which it
+was their interest to be familiar, and which, long before we left them,
+any child could repeat, though in their own style of pronunciation.
+
+Besides the natural authority of parents and husbands, these people
+appear to admit no kind of superiority among one another, except a
+certain degree of superstitious reverence for their _angetkooks_, and
+their tacitly following the counsel or steps of the most active
+seal-catcher on their hunting excursions. The word _nallegak_, used in
+Greenland to express "master," and "lord" in the Esquimaux translations
+of the Scriptures, they were not acquainted with. One of the young men
+at Winter Island appeared to be considered somewhat in the light of a
+servant to Okotook, living with the latter, and quietly allowing him to
+take possession of all the most valuable presents which he received from
+us. Being a sociable people, they unite in considerable numbers to form
+a settlement for the winter; but on the return of spring they again
+separate into several parties, each appearing to choose his own route,
+without regard to that of the rest, but all making their arrangements
+without the slightest disagreement or difference of opinion that we
+could ever discover. In all their movements, they seem to be actuated by
+one simultaneous feeling that is truly admirable.
+
+Superior as our arts, contrivances, and materials must unquestionably
+have appeared to them, and eager as they were to profit by this
+superiority, yet, contradictory as it may seem, they certainly looked
+upon us in many respects with profound contempt; maintaining that idea
+of self-sufficiency which has induced them, in common with the rest of
+their nation, to call themselves, by way of distinction, Innue, or
+mankind. One day, for instance, in securing some of the gear of a
+sledge, Okotook broke a part of it, composed of a piece of our white
+line, and I shall never forget the contemptuous sneer with which he
+muttered in soliloquy the word "Kabloona!" in token of the inferiority
+of our materials to his own. It is happy, perhaps, when people,
+possessing so few of the good things of this life, can be thus contented
+with the little allotted them.
+
+The men, though low in stature, are not wanting in muscular strength in
+proportion to their size, or in activity and hardiness. They are good
+and even quick walkers, and occasionally bear much bodily fatigue, wet,
+and cold, without appearing to suffer by it, much less to complain of
+it. Whatever labour they have gone through, and with whatever success in
+procuring game, no individual ever seems to arrogate to himself the
+credit of having done more than his neighbour for the general good. Nor
+do I conceive there is reason to doubt their personal courage, though
+they are too good-natured often to excite others to put that quality to
+the test. It is true, they will recoil with horror at the tale of an
+Indian massacre, and probably cannot conceive what should induce one set
+of men deliberately and without provocation to murder another. War is
+not their trade; ferocity forms no part of the disposition of the
+Esquimaux. Whatever manly qualities they possess are exercised in a
+different way, and put to a far more worthy purpose. They are
+fishermen, and not warriors; but I cannot call that man a coward who,
+at the age of one-and-twenty, will attack a polar bear single-handed, or
+fearlessly commit himself to floating masses of ice, which the next puff
+of wind may drift for ever from the shore.
+
+Of the few arts possessed by this simple people, some account has
+already been given in the description of their various implements. As
+mechanics, they have little to boast when compared with other savages
+lying under equal disadvantages as to scantiness of tools and materials.
+As carpenters, they can scarf two pieces of wood together, secure them
+with pins of whalebone or ivory, fashion the timbers of a canoe, shoe a
+paddle, and rivet a scrap of iron into a spear or arrow-head. Their
+principal tool is the knife (panna); and, considering the excellence of
+a great number which they possessed previous to our intercourse with
+them, the work they do is remarkably coarse and clumsy. Their very
+manner of holding and handling a knife is the most awkward that can be
+imagined. For the purpose of boring holes, they have a drill and bow so
+exactly like our own, that they need no farther description, except that
+the end of the drill handle, which our artists place against their
+breasts, is rested by these people against a piece of wood or bone held
+in their mouths, and having a cavity fitted to receive it. With the use
+of the saw they were well acquainted, but had nothing of this kind in
+their possession better than a notched piece of iron. One or two small
+European axes were lashed to handles in a contrary direction to ours,
+that is, to be used like an adze, a form which, according to the
+observation of a traveller[012] well qualified to judge, savages in
+general prefer. It was said that these people steamed or boiled wood, in
+order to bend it for fashioning the timbers of their canoes. As
+fishermen or seamen, they can put on a woolding or seizing with
+sufficient strength and security, and are acquainted with some of the
+most simple and serviceable knots in use among us. In all the arts,
+however, practised by the men, it is observable that the ingenuity lies
+in the principle, not in the execution. The experience of ages has led
+them to adopt the most efficacious methods, but their practice as
+handicrafts has gone no farther than absolute necessity requires; they
+bestow little labour upon neatness or ornament.
+
+In some of the few arts practised by the women there is much more
+dexterity displayed, particularly in that important branch of a
+housewife's business, sewing, which, even with their own clumsy needles
+of bone, they perform with extraordinary neatness. They had, however,
+several steel needles of a three-cornered shape, which they kept in a
+very convenient case, consisting of a strip of leather passed through a
+hollow bone, and having its ends remaining out, so that the needles
+which are stuck into it may be drawn in and out at pleasure. These cases
+were sometimes ornamented by cutting; and several thimbles of leather,
+one of which, in sewing, is worn on the first finger, are usually
+attached to it, together with a bunch of narrow spoons and other small
+articles liable to be lost. The thread they use is the sinew of the
+reindeer (_tooktoo =ew=all~o~o_), or, when they cannot procure
+this, the swallow-pipe of the _neiliek_. This may be split into threads
+of different sizes, according to the nature of their work, and is
+certainly a most admirable material. This, together with any other
+articles of a similar kind, they keep in little bags, which are
+sometimes made of the skin of birds' feet, disposed with the claws
+downward in a very neat and tasteful manner. In sewing, the point of the
+needle is entered and drawn through in a direction towards the body, and
+not from it or towards one side, as with our seamstresses. They sew the
+deerskins with a "round seam," and the water-tight boots and shoes are
+"stitched." The latter is performed in a very adroit and efficacious
+manner, by putting the needle only half through the substance of one
+part of the sealskin, so as to leave no hole for admitting the water. In
+cutting out the clothes, the women do it after one regular and uniform
+pattern, which probably descends unaltered from generation to
+generation. The skin of the deer's head is always made to form the
+_apex_ of the hood, while that of the neck and shoulders comes down the
+back of the jacket; and so of every other part of the animal which is
+appropriated to its particular portion of the dress. To soften the
+sealskins of which the boots, shoes, and mittens are made, the women
+chew them for an hour or two together and the young girls are often seen
+employed in thus preparing the materials for their mothers. The covering
+of the canoes is a part of the women's business, in which good
+workmanship is especially necessary to render the whole smooth and
+water-tight. The skins, which are those of the _neitiek_ only, are
+prepared by scraping off the hair and the fleshy parts with an _ooloo,_
+and stretching them out tight on a frame, in which state they are left
+over the lamps or in the sun for several days to dry; and after this
+they are well chewed by the women to make them fit for working. The
+dressing of leather and of skins in the hair, is an art which the women
+have brought to no inconsiderable degree of perfection. They perform
+this by first cleansing the skin from as much of the fat and fleshy
+matter as the _ooloo_ will take off, and then rubbing it hard for
+several hours with a blunt scraper, called _si=ak~o~ot_, so as
+nearly to dry it. It is then put into a vessel containing urine, and
+left to steep a couple of days, after which a drying completes the
+process. Skins dressed in the hair are, however, not always thus
+steeped; the women, instead of this, chewing them for hours together
+till they are quite soft and clean. Some of the leather thus dressed
+looked nearly as well as ours, and the hair was as firmly fixed to the
+pelt; but there was in this respect a very great difference, according
+to the art or attention of the housewife. Dyeing is an art wholly
+unknown to them. The women are very expert at platting, which is usually
+done with three threads of sinew; if greater strength is required,
+several of these are twisted slackly together, as in the bowstrings. The
+quickness with which some of the women plat is really surprising; and it
+is well that they do so, for the quantity required for the bows alone
+would otherwise occupy half the year in completing it.
+
+It may be supposed that, among so cheerful a people as the Esquimaux,
+there are many games or sports practised; indeed, it was rarely that we
+visited their habitations without seeing some engaged in them. One of
+these our gentlemen saw at Winter Island, on an occasion when most of
+the men were absent from the huts on a sealing excursion, and in this
+Iligliuk was the chief performer. Being requested to amuse them in this
+way, she suddenly unbound her hair, platted it, tied both ends together
+to keep it out of her way, and then stepping out into the middle of the
+hut, began to make the most hideous faces that can be conceived, by
+drawing both lips into her mouth, poking forward her chin, squinting
+frightfully, occasionally shutting one eye, and moving her head from
+side to side as if her neck had been dislocated. This exhibition, which
+they call _=ay=ok~it-t=ak-poke_, and which is evidently
+considered an accomplishment that few of them possess in perfection,
+distorts every feature in the most horrible manner imaginable, and
+would, I think, put our most skilful horse-collar grinners quite out of
+countenance.
+
+The next performance consists in looking steadfastly and gravely
+forward, and repeating the words _t~ab=ak-tabak, k~eib=o-keibo,
+k~e-b=ang-~e-n=u-t~o-~e~ek, kebang-enutoeek, ~am=at~am=a-amatama_, in
+the order in which they are here placed, but each at least four times,
+and always by a peculiar modulation of the voice, speaking them in pairs
+as they are coupled above. The sound is made to proceed from the throat
+in a way much resembling ventriloquism, to which art it is indeed an
+approach. After the last _amatama_ Iligliuk always pointed with her
+finger towards her body, and pronounced the word _angetkook,_ steadily
+retaining her gravity for five or six seconds, and then bursting into a
+loud laugh, in which she was joined by all the rest. The women sometimes
+produce a much more guttural and unnatural sound, repeating principally
+the word _=ikk~er~ee-ikkeree_, coupling them as before, and staring in
+such a manner as to make their eyes appear ready to burst out of their
+sockets with the exertion. Two or more of them will sometimes stand up
+face to face, and with great quickness and regularity respond to each
+other, keeping such exact time that the sound appears to come from one
+throat instead of several. Very few of the females are possessed of this
+accomplishment, which is called _pitkoo-she-r=ak-poke_, and it is not
+uncommon to see several of the younger females practising it. A third
+part of the game, distinguished by the word _keit=ik-poke_, consists
+only in falling on each knee alternately--a piece of agility which they
+perform with tolerable quickness, considering the bulky and awkward
+nature of their dress.
+
+The last kind of individual exhibition was still performed by Iligliuk,
+to whom in this, as in almost everything else, the other women tacitly
+acknowledged their inferiority, by quietly giving place to her on every
+occasion. She now once more came forward, and letting her arms hang down
+loosely and bending her body very much forward, shook herself with,
+extreme violence, as if her whole frame had been strongly convulsed,
+uttering at the same time, in a wild tone of voice, some of the
+unnatural sounds before mentioned.
+
+This being at an end, a new exhibition was commenced, in which ten or
+twelve women took a part, and which our gentlemen compared to
+blind-man's buff. A circle being formed, and a boy despatched to look
+out at the door of the hut, Iligliuk, still the principal actress,
+placed herself in the centre, and after making a variety of guttural
+noises for about half a minute, shut her eyes and ran about till she had
+taken hold of one of the others, whose business it then became to take
+her station in the centre, so that almost every woman in her turn
+occupied this post; and in her own peculiar way, either by distortion of
+countenance or other gestures, performed her part in the game. This
+continued three quarters of an hour; and, from the precaution of placing
+a look-out, who was withdrawn when it was over, as well as from some
+very expressive signs which need not here be mentioned, there is reason
+to believe that it is usually followed by certain indecencies, with
+which their husbands are not to be acquainted. Kaoongut was present,
+indeed, on this occasion, but his age seemed to render him a privileged
+person; besides which, his own wife did not join in the game.
+
+The most common amusement, however, and to which their husbands made no
+objection, they performed at Winter Island expressly for our
+gratification. The females being collected to the number of ten or
+twelve, stood in as large a circle as the hut would admit, with Okotook
+in the centre. He began by a sort of half howling, half singing noise,
+which appeared as if designed to call the attention of the women, the
+latter soon commencing the _Amna Aya_ song hereafter described. This
+they continued without variety, remaining quite still while Okotook
+walked round within the circle; his body was rather bent forward, his
+eyes sometimes closed, his arms constantly moving up and down, and now
+and then hoarsely vociferating a word or two, as if to increase the
+animation of the singers, who, whenever he did this, quitted the chorus
+and rose into the words of the song. At the end of ten minutes they all
+left off at once, and after one minute's interval commenced a second act
+precisely similar and of equal duration; Okotook continuing to invoke
+their muse as before. A third act, which followed this, varied only in
+his frequently, towards the close, throwing his feet up before and
+clapping his hands together, by which exertion he was thrown into a
+violent perspiration. He then retired, desiring a young man (who, as we
+were informed, was the only individual of several then present thus
+qualified) to take his place in the centre as master of the ceremonies,
+when the same antics as before were again gone through. After this
+description it will scarcely be necessary to remark, that nothing can be
+poorer in its way than this tedious singing recreation, which, as well
+as everything in which dancing is concerned, they express by the word
+m~om=ek-poke. They seem, however, to take great delight in it; and
+even a number of men, as well as all the children, crept into the hut by
+degrees to peep at the performance.
+
+The Esquimaux women and children often amuse themselves with a game not
+unlike our "skip-rope." This is performed by two women holding the ends
+of a line, and whirling it regularly round and round, while a third
+jumps over it in the middle, according to the following order. She
+commences by jumping twice on both feet, then alternately with the right
+and left, and next four times with the feet slipped one behind the
+other, the rope passing once round at each jump. After this she performs
+a circle on the ground, jumping about half a dozen times in the course
+of it, which bringing her to her original position, the same thing is
+repeated as often as it can be done without entangling the line. One or
+two of the women performed this with considerable agility and
+adroitness, considering the clumsiness of their boots and jackets, and
+seemed to pride themselves, in some degree, on the qualification. A
+second kind of this game consists in two women holding a long rope by
+its ends, and whirling it round in such a manner, over the heads of two
+others standing close together near the middle of the bight, that each
+of these shall jump over it alternately. The art, therefore, which is
+indeed considerable, depends more on those whirling the rope than on the
+jumpers, who are, however, obliged to keep exact time, in order to be
+ready for the rope passing under their feet.
+
+The whole of these people, but especially the women, are fond of music,
+both vocal and instrumental. Some of them might be said to be
+passionately so, removing their hair from off their ears, and bending
+their heads forward, as if to catch the sounds more distinctly, whenever
+we amused them in this manner. Their own music is entirely vocal,
+unless, indeed, the drum and tambarine before mentioned be considered an
+exception.
+
+The voices of the women are soft and feminine, and, when singing with
+the men, are pitched an octave higher than theirs. They have most of
+them so far good ears, that, in whatever key a song is commenced by one
+of them, the rest will always join in perfect unison. After singing for
+ten minutes, the key had usually fallen a full semitone. Only two of
+them, of whom Iligliuk was one, could catch the tune as pitched by an
+instrument, which made it difficult with most of them to complete the
+writing of the notes; for if they once left off they were sure to
+recommence in some other key, though a flute or violin was playing at
+the time.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+During the season passed at Winter Island, which appears to have been a
+healthy one with the Esquimaux, we had little opportunity of becoming
+acquainted with the diseases to which they are subject. Our subsequent
+intercourse with a great number of these people at Igloolik having
+unfortunately afforded more frequent and fatal instances of sickness
+among them, I here insert Mr. Edwards's remarks on this subject.
+
+
+     "Our first communication with these people at Winter Island gave us
+     a more favourable impression of their general health than
+     subsequent experience confirmed. There, however, they were not free
+     from sickness. A catarrhal affection, in the month of February,
+     became generally prevalent, from which they readily recovered after
+     the exciting causes, intemperance and exposure to wet, had ceased
+     to operate. A solitary instance of pleurisy also occurred, which
+     probably might have ended fatally but for timely assistance. Our
+     intercourse with them in the summer was more interrupted; but at
+     our occasional meetings they were observed to be enjoying excellent
+     health. It is probable that their certain supplies of food, and the
+     nomade kind of life they lead in its pursuit during that season,
+     are favourable to health. Nutrition goes on actively, and an
+     astonishing increase of strength and fulness is acquired. Active
+     diseases might now be looked for, but that the powers of nature are
+     providentially exerted with effect.
+
+     "The unlimited use of stimulating animal food, on which they are
+     from infancy fed, induces at an early age a highly plethoric state
+     of the vascular system. The weaker, over-distended vessels of the
+     nose quickly yield to the increased impetus of the blood, and an
+     active hemorrhage relieves the subject. As the same causes continue
+     to be applied in excess at frequent intervals, and are followed by
+     similar effects, a kind of vicarious hemorrhage at length becomes
+     established by habit; superseding the intervention of art, and
+     having no small share in maintaining a balance in the circulating
+     system. The phenomenon is too constant to have escaped the
+     observation of those who have visited the different Esquimaux
+     people; a party of them has, indeed, rarely been seen, that did not
+     exhibit two or three instances of the fact.
+
+     "About the month of September, the approach of winter induced the
+     Esquimaux at Igloolik to abandon their tents and to retire into
+     their more established village. The majority were here crowded into
+     huts of a permanent construction, the materials composing the sides
+     being stones and the bones of whales, and the roofs being formed of
+     skins, turf, and snow; the rest of the people were lodged in snow
+     huts. For a while they continued very healthy; in fact, as long as
+     the temperature of the interior did not exceed the freezing point,
+     the vapours of the atmosphere congealed upon the walls, and the
+     air remained dry and tolerably pure; besides, their hard-frozen
+     winter stock of walrus did not at this time tempt them to indulge
+     their appetites immoderately. In January the temperature suffered
+     an unseasonable rise; some successful captures of walrus also took
+     place; and these circumstances, combined perhaps with some
+     superstitious customs of which we were ignorant, seemed the signal
+     for giving way to sensuality. The lamps were accumulated, and the
+     kettles more frequently replenished; and gluttony, in its most
+     disgusting form, became for a while the order of the day. The
+     Esquimaux were now seen wallowing in filth, while some, surfeited,
+     lay stretched upon their skins, enormously distended, and with
+     their friends employed in rolling them about, to assist the
+     operations of oppressed nature. The roofs of their huts were no
+     longer congealed, but dripping with wet and threatening speedy
+     dissolution. The air was, in the bone huts, damp, hot, and beyond
+     sufferance offensive with putrid exhalations from the decomposing
+     relics of offals or other animal matter permitted to remain from
+     year to year undisturbed in these horrible sinks.
+
+     "What the consequences might have been had this state of affairs
+     long continued, it is not difficult to imagine; but, fortunately
+     for them, an early and gradual dispersion took place, so that by
+     the end of January few individuals were left in the village. The
+     rest, in divided bodies, established themselves in snow huts upon
+     the sea-ice at some distance from the land. Before this change had
+     been completed, disorders of an inflammatory character had
+     appeared. A few went away sick, some were unable to remove, and
+     others taken ill upon the ice, and we heard of the death of several
+     about this period.
+
+     "Their distance from the ships at once precluded any effectual
+     assistance being rendered them at their huts, and their removal on
+     board with safety; the complaints of those who died at the huts,
+     therefore, did not come under observation. It appears, however, to
+     have been acute inflammation of some of the abdominal viscera, very
+     rapid in its career. In the generality, the disease assumed a more
+     insidious and sub-acute form, under which the patient lingered for
+     a while, and was then either carried off by a diarrhoea, or slowly
+     recovered by the powers of nature. Three or four individuals, who,
+     with some risk and trouble, were brought to the ships, we were
+     providentially instrumental in recovering; but two others, almost
+     helpless patients, were so far exhausted before their arrival, that
+     the endeavours used were unsuccessful, and death was probably
+     hastened by their removal.
+
+     "That affection of the eyes known by the name of snow-blindness, is
+     extremely frequent among these people. With them it scarcely ever
+     goes beyond painful irritation, while among strangers inflammation
+     is sometimes the consequence. I have not seen them use any other
+     remedy besides the exclusion of light; but, as a preventive, a
+     wooden eye-screen is worn, very simple in its construction,
+     consisting of a curved piece of wood, six or seven inches long, and
+     ten or twelve lines broad. It is tied over the eyes like a pair of
+     spectacles, being adapted to the forehead and nose, and hollowed
+     out to favour the motion of the eyelids. A few rays of light only
+     are admitted through a narrow slit an inch long, cut opposite to
+     each eye.
+
+     "There are, upon the whole, no people more destitute of curative
+     means than these. With the exception of the hemorrhage already
+     mentioned, which they duly appreciate, and have been observed to
+     excite artificially to cure headache, they are ignorant of any
+     rational method of procuring relief. It has not been ascertained
+     that they use a single herb medicinally. As prophylactics, they
+     wear amulets, which are usually the teeth, bones, or hair of some
+     animal, the more rare apparently the more valuable. In absolute
+     sickness they depend entirely upon their Angekoks, who, they
+     persuade themselves, have influence over some submarine deities who
+     govern their destiny. The mummeries of these impostors, consisting
+     in pretended consultations with their oracles, are looked upon with
+     confidence, and their mandates, however absurd, superstitiously
+     submitted to. These are constituted of unmeaning ceremonies and
+     prohibitions generally affecting the diet, both in kind and mode,
+     but never in quantity. Seal's flesh is forbidden, for instance, in
+     one disease, that of the walrus in the other; the heart is denied
+     to some, and the liver to others. A poor woman, on discovering that
+     the meat she had in her mouth was a piece of fried heart instead of
+     liver, appeared horror-struck; and a man was in equal tribulation
+     at having eaten, by mistake, a piece of meat cooked in his wife's
+     kettle.
+
+     "Personal deformity from malconformation is uncommon; the only
+     instance I remember being that of a young woman, whose utterance
+     was unintelligibly nasal, in consequence of an imperfect
+     development of the palatine bones leaving a gap in the roof of the
+     mouth."
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Whatever may be the abundance sometimes enjoyed by these people, and
+whatever the maladies occasioned by their too frequent abuse of it, it
+is certain that they occasionally suffer very severely from the opposite
+extreme. A remarkably intelligent woman informed Captain Lyon, that two
+years ago some Esquimaux arrived at Igloolik from a place near
+_Akkoolee_, bringing information that, during a very grievous famine,
+one party of men had fallen upon another and killed them; and that they
+afterward subsisted on their flesh, while in a frozen state, but never
+cooked or even thawed it. This horrible account was soon after confirmed
+by Toolemak on board the Fury; and though he was evidently uneasy at our
+having heard the story, and conversed upon it with reluctance, yet, by
+means of our questions, he was brought to name, upon his fingers, five
+individuals who had been killed upon this occasion. Of the fact,
+therefore, there can be no doubt; but it is certain, also, that we
+ourselves scarcely regarded it with greater horror than those who
+related it; and the occurrence may be considered similar to those
+dreadful instances on record, even among civilized nations, of men
+devouring one another, in wrecks or boats, when rendered desperate by
+the sufferings of actual starvation.
+
+The ceremony of crying, which has before been mentioned as practised
+after a person's death, is not, however, altogether confined to those
+melancholy occasions, but is occasionally adopted in cases of illness,
+and that of no very dangerous kind. The father of a sick person enters
+the apartment, and, after looking at him a few seconds without speaking,
+announces by a kind of low sob his preparation for the coming ceremony.
+At this signal every other individual present composes his features for
+crying, and the leader of the chorus then setting up a loud and piteous
+howl, which lasts about a minute, is joined by all the rest, who shed
+abundant tears during the process. So decidedly is this a matter of
+form, unaccompanied by any feeling of sorrow, that those who are not
+relatives shed just as many tears as those that are; to which may be
+added, that in the instances which we saw there was no real occasion for
+crying at all. It must, therefore, be considered in the light of a
+ceremony of condolence, which it would be either indecorous or unlucky
+to omit.
+
+I have already given several instances of the little care these people
+take in the interment of their dead, especially in the winter season; it
+is certain, however, that this arises from some superstitious notion,
+and particularly from the belief that any heavy weight upon the corpse
+would have an injurious effect upon the deceased in a future state of
+existence; for even in the summer, when it would be an easy matter to
+secure a body from the depredations of wild animals, the mode of burial
+is not essentially different. The corpse of a child observed by
+Lieutenant Palmer, he describes "as being laid in a regular but shallow
+grave, with its head to the northeast. It was decently dressed in a good
+deerskin jacket, and a sealskin prepared without the hair was carefully
+placed as a cover to the whole figure, and tucked in on all sides. The
+body was covered with flat pieces of limestone, which, however, were so
+light that a fox might easily have removed them. Near the grave were
+four little separate piles of stones, not more than a foot in height, in
+one of which we noticed a piece of red cloth and a black silk
+handkerchief, in a second a pair of child's boots and mittens, and in
+each of the others a whalebone pot. The face of the child looked
+unusually clean and fresh, and a few days could only have elapsed since
+its decease."
+
+These Esquimaux do not appear to have any idea of the existence of One
+Supreme Being, nor indeed can they be said to entertain any notions on
+this subject which may be dignified with the name of Religion. Their
+superstitions, which are numerous, have all some reference to the
+preternatural agency of a number of _to=orng~ow_ or spirits, with
+whom, on certain occasions, the _Angetkooks_ pretend to hold mysterious
+intercourse, and who, in various and distinct ways, are supposed to
+preside over the destinies of the Esquimaux. On particular occasions of
+sickness or want of food, the Angetkooks contrive, by means of a
+darkened hut, a peculiar modulation of the voices and the uttering of a
+variety of unintelligible sounds, to persuade their countrymen that they
+are descending to the lower regions for this purpose, where they force
+the spirits to communicate the desired information. The superstitious
+reverence in which these wizards are held, and a considerable degree of
+ingenuity in their mode of performing their mummery, prevent the
+detection of the imposture, and secure implicit confidence in these
+absurd oracles. Some account of their ideas repecting death, and of
+their belief in a future state of existence, has already been introduced
+in the course of the foregoing pages, in the order of those occurrences
+which furnished us with opportunities of observing them.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+NARRATIVE
+
+OF
+
+AN ATTEMPT TO REACH THE
+
+NORTH POLE,
+
+IN BOATS FITTED FOR THE PURPOSE, AND ATTACHED
+TO HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP HECLA,
+
+IN THE YEAR 1827.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+NARRATIVE
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+In April, 1826, I proposed to the Right Honourable Viscount Melville,
+first lord commissioner of the Admiralty, to attempt to reach the North
+Pole by means of travelling with sledge-boats over the ice, or through
+any spaces of open water that might occur. My proposal was soon
+afterward referred to the president and council of the Royal Society,
+who strongly recommended its adoption; and an expedition being
+accordingly directed to be equipped for this purpose, I had the honour
+of being appointed to the command of it; and my commission for his
+majesty's ship the Hecla, which was intended to carry us to Spitzbergen,
+was dated the 11th of November, 1826.
+
+Two boats were constructed at Woolwich, under my superintendence, after
+an excellent model suggested by Mr. Peake, and nearly resembling what
+are called "troop-boats," having great flatness of floor, with the
+extreme breadth carried well forward and aft, and possessing the utmost
+buoyancy, as well as capacity for stowage. Their length was twenty feet,
+and their extreme breadth seven feet. The timbers were made of tough ash
+and hickory, one inch by half an inch square, and a foot apart, with a
+"half-timber" of smaller size between each two. On the outside of the
+frame thus formed was laid a covering of Macintosh's water-proof
+canvass, the outer part being covered with tar. Over this was placed a
+plank of fir, only three sixteenths of an inch thick; then a sheet of
+stout felt; and, over all, an oak plank of the same thickness as the
+fir; the whole of these being firmly and closely secured to the timbers
+by iron screws applied from without. The following narrative will show
+how admirably the elasticity of this mode of construction was adapted to
+withstand the constant twisting and concussion to which the boats were
+subject.[013] On each side of the keel, and projecting considerably
+below it, was attached a strong "runner," shod with smooth steel, in the
+manner of a sledge, upon which the boat entirely rested while upon the
+ice; and, to afford some additional chance of making progress on hard
+and level fields, we also applied to each boat two wheels, of five feet
+diameter, and a small one abaft, having a swivel for steering by, like
+that of a Bath chair; but these, owing to the irregularities of the ice,
+did not prove of any service, and were subsequently relinquished. A
+"span" of hide-rope was attached to the forepart of the runners, and to
+this were affixed two strong ropes of horse-hair, for dragging the boat:
+each individual being furnished with a broad leathern shoulder-belt,
+which could readily be fastened to or detached from the drag-ropes. The
+interior arrangement consisted only of two thwarts; a locker at each
+end for the nautical and other instruments, and for the smaller stores;
+and a very slight framework along the sides for containing the bags of
+biscuit and our spare clothes. A bamboo mast nineteen feet long, a
+tanned duck sail, answering also the purpose of an awning, a spreat, one
+boat-hook, fourteen paddles, and a steer-oar, completed each boat's
+equipment.
+
+Two officers and twelve men (ten of the latter being seamen, and two
+marines) were selected for each boat's crew. It was proposed to take
+with us resources for ninety days; to set out from Spitzbergen, if
+possible, about the beginning of June; and to occupy the months of June,
+July, and August in attempting to reach the Pole and returning to the
+ship; making an average journey of thirteen miles and a half per day.
+Our provisions consisted of biscuit of the best wheaten flour; beef
+_pemmican_;[014] sweetened cocoa-powder, and a small proportion of rum,
+the latter concentrated to fifty-five per cent. above proof, in order to
+save weight and stowage. The proper instruments were provided, both by
+the Admiralty and the Board of Longitude, for making such observations
+as might be interesting in the higher latitudes, and as the nature of
+the enterprise would permit. Six pocket chronometers, the property of
+the public, were furnished for this service; and Messrs. Parkinson and
+Frodsham, with their usual liberality, intrusted to our care several
+other excellent watches, on trial, at their own expense.
+
+Annexed is a list of the different articles composing the equipment of
+the boats, together with the actual weight of each.
+
+
+                                                        Enter-      Endeav-
+                                                        prise       our
+                                                        lbs.        lbs.
+Boat .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .     . 1539        1542
+Bamboo mast, 1 spreat, 1 boat-hook, 1 steer-oar.     .   46-1/2      46-1/2
+Fourteen paddles .     .     .     .     .     .     .   41          41
+Sail (or awning) .     .     .     .     .     .     .   22          22
+Spare rope and line    .     .     .     .     .     .    6           6
+Small sounding line (750 fathoms in all) .     .     .    8          10
+Carpenters' tools, screws, nails, &c.    .     .     .   10          10
+Copper and felt for repairs  .     .     .     .     .   19          19
+Four fowling pieces,with 2 bayonets.     .     .     .   15          15
+Small articles for guns.     .     .     .     .     .   --           4
+Ammunition .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .   17-1/2      17-1/2
+Instruments.     .     .     .     .     .     .     .   29          29
+Books.     .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .    7           5-1/2
+S {
+p {Fur Suits for sleeping in (14 in each boat) .     .  162         162
+a {Thick-nailed boots (14 in each boat)  .     .     .   47          47
+r {Esquimaux do., with spare soles (14 in each       .
+e {  boat  .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .   33          33
+C {Flannel shirts (7 in each boat) .     .     .     .    8-3/4       8-3/4
+l {Guernsey frocks (do. do.) .     .     .     .     .   11-1/2      11-1/2
+o {Thick drawers   (do. do.)       .     .     .     .   14          14
+t {Mittens (28 in each boat) .     .     .     .     .    5           5
+h {Comforters (14 in each boat)    .     .     .     .    1           1
+e {Scotch caps (do. do.)     .     .     .     .     .    4           4
+s {
+A bag of small articles for the officers,            .
+  including soap, &c., &c.   .     .     .     .     .    4           4
+Do. do. for the men   do.    .     .     .     .     .   12          12
+Biscuit    .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .  628         628
+Pemmican   .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .  564         564
+Rum        .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .  180         180
+Cocoa powder, sweetened.     .     .     .     .     .   63          63
+Salt .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .   14          14
+Spirits of Wine  .     .     .     .     .     .     .   72          72
+Cooking apparatus.     .     .     .     .     .     .   --          20
+Tobacco    .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .   20          20
+Medicine chest                                       .   19          --
+Pannikins, knife, fork, and spoon (14 in each boat)  .    5           5
+Weighing-dials and measures                          .    2           2
+Various small articles for repairs, &c., not mentioned
+above                                                    14          --
+Packages for provisions, clothes, &c                    110         116
+                                                        ----       ----
+                                                    14)3753 1/4    3753 3/4
+
+                    Weight, per man                     268 lbs.
+Exclusive of four sledges, weighing 26 lbs. each.
+
+
+I have not thought it necessary, in the course of this volume, to enter
+into any examination of the question respecting the approaches to the
+North Pole which had already been effected previous to our late attempt.
+I shall, therefore, only add that, after carefully weighing the various
+authorities, from which every individual interested in this matter is at
+liberty to form his own conclusions, my own impartial conviction, at the
+time of our setting out on this enterprise, coincided (with a single
+exception) with the opinion expressed by the Commissioners of Longitude
+in their memorial to the king, that "the progress of discovery had not
+arrived northward, according to any well-authenticated accounts, so far
+as eighty-one degrees of north latitude." The exception to which I
+allude is in favour of Mr. Scoresby, who states his having, in the year
+1806, reached the latitude of 81° 12' 42" by actual observation, and 81°
+30' by dead reckoning. I therefore consider the latter parallel as, in
+all probability, the highest which had ever been attained prior to the
+attempt recorded in the following pages.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+The Hecla being ready to proceed down the river, she was taken in tow,
+at ten A.M. on the 25th of March, 1827, by the Lightning steam-vessel;
+and having received and returned the cheers of the Greenwich pensioners,
+the children of the Naval Asylum, and of various ships in the river, she
+made fast to the moorings at Northfleet at three P.M. The following day
+was occupied in swinging the ship round on the various points of the
+compass, in order to obtain the amount of the deviation of the magnetic
+needle produced by the attraction of the ship's iron, and to fix Mr.
+Barlow's plate for correcting it.[015] On the 3d of April the ship's
+company received three months' wages in advance, together with their
+river-pay; and on the following morning, at half past four, we weighed
+and made sail from the Nore.
+
+We had at this time remarkably fine weather for the season of the year,
+and such a continuance of southerly winds that we arrived off the island
+of Soroe, within which Hammerfest lies, on the 17th, without having had
+occasion to make a tack till we entered the fiord which forms the
+northern entrance.
+
+The wind becoming light from the southward, and very variable, we were
+occupied the whole of the 18th in beating up towards Hammerfest. In the
+evening a Lapland boat came on board, and one of the men undertook to
+pilot the ship to the anchorage, which, after beating all night against
+an ebb tide, we reached at three A.M. on the 19th. Finding that our
+reindeer had not arrived, I immediately despatched Lieutenant Crozier,
+in one of our own boats, to Alten, from whence they were expected--a
+distance of about sixty English miles. At the same time, we landed our
+observatories and instruments at Fugleness, near the establishment of
+Messrs. Crowe and Woodfall, the British merchants residing here; and
+Lieutenant Foster and myself immediately commenced our magnetic and
+other observations, which were continued during the whole of our stay
+here. We completed our supply of water, and obtained a small quantity of
+venison, with abundance of good fish (principally torsk and cod), and
+some milk. We also purchased a set of snow-shoes for our travelling
+party, together with the Lapland shoes of leather (called Kamooga[016]),
+which are the most convenient and comfortable for wearing with them; and
+we practised our people in the manner of walking in them in deep snow,
+which afforded them fine exercise and amusement.
+
+On the 23d, Lieutenant Crozier returned in the boat from Alten, and was
+followed the next day by Mr. Wooodfall, who brought with him eight
+reindeer for our use, together with a supply of moss for their provender
+(_cenomyce rangiferina_). As, however, the latter required a great deal
+of picking, so as to render it fit to carry with us over the ice, and
+as it was also necessary that we should be instructed in the manner of
+managing the deer, I determined on remaining a day or two longer for
+these purposes. Nothing can be more beautiful than the training of the
+Lapland reindeer. With a simple collar of skin round his neck, a single
+trace of the same material attached to the "pulk" or sledge, and passing
+between his legs, and one rein, fastened like a halter about his neck,
+this intelligent and docile animal is perfectly under the command of an
+experienced driver, and performs astonishing journeys over the softest
+snow. When the rein is thrown over on the off side of the animal, he
+immediately sets off at a full, trot, and stops short the instant it is
+thrown back to the near side. Shaking the rein over his back is the only
+whip that is required. In a short time after setting off, they appear to
+be gasping for breath, as if quite exhausted; but, if not driven too
+fast at first, they soon recover this, and then go on without
+difficulty. The quantity of _clean_ moss considered requisite for each
+deer per day is four pounds; but they will go five or six days without
+provender, and not suffer materially. As long as they can pick up snow
+as they go along, which they like to eat quite clean, they require no
+water; and ice is to them a comfortable bed. It may well be imagined,
+with such qualifications, how valuable these animals seemed likely to
+prove to us; and the more we became accustomed, and, I may say, attached
+to them, the more painful became the idea of the necessity which was
+likely to exist, of ultimately having recourse to them as provision for
+ourselves.
+
+Our preparations were completed on the 27th, but the wind continuing
+fresh from the northwestern quarter in the offing, we had no prospect of
+making any progress till the morning of the 29th, when we weighed at six
+A.M.
+
+On the 5th of May, being in latitude 73° 30', and longitude 7° 28' E.,
+we met with the first straggling mass of ice, after which, in sailing
+about 110 miles in a N.N.W. direction, there was always a number of
+loose masses in sight; but it did not occur in continuous "streams" till
+the morning of the 7th, in latitude 74° 55', a few miles to the eastward
+of the meridian of Greenwich. On the 10th several whalers were in sight,
+and Mr. Bennett, the master of the Venerable, of Hull, whom we had
+before met in Baffin's Bay in 1818, came on board. From him I learned
+that several of the ships had been in the ice since the middle of April,
+some of them having been so far to the westward as the island of Jan
+Mayen, and that they were now endeavouring to push to the northward.
+They considered the ice to offer more obstacles to the attainment of
+this object than it had done for many years past.[017] None of the ships
+had yet taken a single whale, which, indeed, they never expect to do to
+the southward of about 78°.
+
+In the afternoon, after waiting for some time for the ice to open, we
+again entered it, in company with all the whalers, and by the following
+morning had succeeded in pushing about fifty miles farther to the
+northward, though not without some heavy blows in "boring" through the
+ice.
+
+At five A.M. on the 14th we passed Magdalena Bay, and by ten o'clock had
+arrived off Hakluyt's Headland, round which we hauled to the
+southeastward, to look, for anchorage in Smerenburg Harbour. In this,
+however, we were disappointed, the whole place being occupied by one
+unbroken floe of ice, still firmly attached to the land on each side.
+Here we made fast, though not without considerable difficulty; the wind,
+which was now freshening from the southward, blowing in such violent and
+irregular gusts off the high land that the ship was scarcely manageable.
+Walruses, dovekies, and eider-ducks were very numerous here, especially
+the former; and four reindeer came down upon the ice near the ship.
+
+We now prepared a quantity of provisions and other stores to land at
+Hakluyt's Headland, as a supply for my party on our return from the
+northward; so that, in case of the ship being obliged to go more to the
+southward, or of our not being able at once to reach her, we should be
+furnished with a few days' resources of every kind. Our intentions were,
+however, frustrated for the present; for we had scarcely secured our
+hawsers, when a hard gale came on from the southward, threatening every
+moment to snap them in two, and drive us from our anchorage. We held on
+for several hours, till, at nine P.M., some swell having set in upon the
+margin of the ice, it began to break off and drift away. Every possible
+exertion was instantly made to shift our stream cable farther in upon
+the floe; but it broke away so quickly as to baffle every endeavour,
+and at ten the ship went adrift, the wind blowing still harder than
+before. Having hauled in the hawsers and got the boats on board, we set
+the close-reefed topsails, to endeavour to hang to windward; but the
+wind blew in such tremendous gusts from the high land as almost to lay
+the ship on her beam-ends; so that we were obliged to reduce our canvass
+to the main topsail and stormsails, and let her drive to leeward.[018]
+The situation of the ship now appeared a very precarious one, the wind
+still blowing with unabated violence, and with every appearance of a
+continuance of stormy weather. Under these circumstances, it was the
+general opinion of the officers, as well as my own, that it was
+advisable to take advantage of the comparatively smooth water within the
+stream of ice, and to run the ship into the pack, rather than incur the
+risk of having to do the same thing in a heavy sea. This plan succeeded
+remarkably well; a tolerably smooth and open part of the margin being
+selected, the ship was forced into it at three A.M., when, after
+encountering a few severe blows from the heavy washed pieces which
+always occur near the sea-edge, she was gradually carried onward under
+all sail, and at four A.M. we got into a perfectly smooth and secure
+situation, half a mile within the margin of a "pack."
+
+It was impossible not to consider ourselves highly fortunate in having
+thus early, and with no great difficulty, succeeded in reaching the
+highest latitude to which it was our object to take the ship. But, from
+what we had already seen at Smerenburg, it was also impossible not to
+feel much anxiety as to the prospect of getting her into any secure
+harbour before the proper time of my departure to the northward should
+arrive. However, we could only wait patiently for the result of a few
+more days; and, in the mean time, everybody was busily employed in
+completing the arrangements for our departure, so that, if an
+opportunity did offer of securing the ship, we might have nothing else
+to attend to. Our deer were in good order, having been thriving well
+ever since they came on board; they make excellent sailors, and do not
+seem to mind bad weather, always lying down quite comfortable whenever
+there is any sea.
+
+In order to try what our chances were, at the present low temperature,
+of procuring water upon the ice without expense of fuel, we laid a black
+painted canvass cloth, and also a piece of black felt, upon the surface
+of the snow; the temperature of the atmosphere being from 18° to 23°.
+These substances had, in a couple of hours, sunk half an inch into the
+snow, but no water could be collected. I was desirous, also, of
+ascertaining whether any part of the real sea-ice was so entirely fresh
+when melted as to be drunk without injury or inconvenience. For this
+purpose we cut a block of ice from a large hummock, about ten feet high
+above the sea; and having broken, pounded, and melted it, without any
+previous washing, we found it, both by the hydrometer and by the
+chemical test (nitrate of silver), _more_ free from salt than any which
+we had in our tanks, and which was procured from Hammerfest. I
+considered this satisfactory, because, in the autumn, the pools of water
+met with upon the ice generally become very brackish, in consequence of
+the sea-water being drawn up into them by capillary action as the ice
+becomes more "rotten" and porous; and we might, therefore, have to
+depend chiefly on melted ice for our daily supply.
+
+No change took place till the 21st, when, on the weather clearing up, we
+found that the open water we had left to the westward was now wholly
+closed up, and that there was none whatever in sight. It was now also so
+close in-shore, that on the 22d, Lieutenant Ross, with a party of
+officers and men, succeeded in landing without difficulty. They found a
+small floe of level ice close to the beach, which appeared very lately
+formed. Walking up to a little conspicuous eminence near the eastern end
+of the beach, they found it to be composed of clay-slate, tinged of a
+brownish red colour. The few uncovered parts of the beach were strewed
+with smooth schistose fragments of the same mineral, and in some parts a
+quantity of thin slates of it lay closely disposed together in a
+vertical position. On the little hillock were two graves, bearing the
+dates of 1741 and 1762 on some of the stones which marked them, and a
+considerable quantity of fir driftwood lay upon the beach.
+
+I now clearly saw that there was, for the present, no reasonable
+prospect of our getting towards any harbour; and I could not but feel
+confident that, even if we did get to the entrance of any, some time
+must be occupied in securing the ship. It may be well imagined how
+anxious I had now become to delay no longer in setting out upon the
+main object of the expedition. I felt that a few days at the
+commencement of the season, short as it is in these regions, might be of
+great importance as to the result of our enterprise, while the ship
+seemed to be so far secure from any immediate danger as to justify my
+leaving her, with a reduced crew, in her present situation. The nature
+of the ice was, beyond all comparison, the most unfavourable for our
+purpose that I remember to have ever seen. It consisted only of loose
+pieces, scarcely any of them fifteen or twenty yards square; and when
+any so large did occur, their, margins were surrounded by the smaller
+ones, thrown up by the recent pressure into ten thousand various shapes,
+and presenting high and sharp angular masses at every other step. The
+men compared it to a stone-mason's yard, which, except that the stones
+were of ten times the usual dimensions, it indeed very much resembled.
+The only inducement to set out over such a road was the certainty that
+floes and fields lay beyond it, and the hope that they were not _far_
+beyond it. In this respect, indeed, I considered our present easterly
+position as a probable advantage, since the ice was much less likely to
+have been disturbed to any great extent northward in this meridian than
+to the westward clear of the land, where every southerly breeze was sure
+to be making havoc among it. Another very important advantage in setting
+off on this meridian appeared to me to be, that, the land of Spitzbergen
+lying immediately over against the ice, the latter could never drift so
+much or so fast to the southward as it might farther to the westward.
+
+Upon these grounds it was that I was anxious to make an attempt, at
+least, as soon as our arrangements could be completed; and the officers
+being of the same opinion as myself, we hoisted out the boats early in
+the morning of the 27th, and, having put the things into one of them,
+endeavoured, by way of experiment, to get her to a little distance from
+the ship. Such however, were the irregularities of the ice, that, even
+with the assistance of an additional party of men, it was obvious that
+we could not have gained a single mile in a day, and, what was still
+more important, not without almost certain and serious injury to the
+boats by their striking against the angular masses. Under these
+circumstances, it was but too evident to every one that it would have
+been highly imprudent to persist in setting out, since, if the ice,
+after all, should clear away, even in a week, so as to allow us to get a
+few miles nearer the main body, time would be ultimately saved by our
+delay, to say nothing of the wear and tear, and expense of our
+provisions. I was, therefore, very reluctantly compelled to yield to
+this necessity, and to order the things to be got on board again.
+
+Immediately after we had, on the 27th, proved experimentally the extreme
+difficulty of transporting our boats and stores over the ice which now
+surrounded us, I made up my mind to the very great probability there
+seemed to be of the necessity of adopting such alterations in our
+original plans as would accommodate them to these untoward circumstances
+at the outset. The boats forming the main impediment, not so much on
+account of their absolute weight as from the difficulty of managing so
+large a body upon a road of this nature, I made preparations for the
+possible contingency of our having to take only one, continuing the same
+number of men in our whole party. All that I saw reason to apprehend
+from having only a single boat on our outward journey, was some
+occasional delay in ferrying over spaces of water in two trips instead
+of one; but we considered that this would be much more than compensated
+by the increased rate at which we should go whenever we were upon the
+ice, as we expected to be nine days out of ten. The principal
+disadvantage, therefore, consisted in our not all being able to sleep in
+the boat, and this we proposed to obviate in the following manner.
+
+We constructed out of the Lapland snow-shoes fourteen sledges, each
+sledge consisting of two pairs well fastened together. Upon these we
+proposed dragging almost all the weight, so as to keep the boat nearly
+without any cargo in her, as we found by experiment that a man could
+drag about three hundred pounds on one of the sledges with more facility
+than he could drag the boat when his proportion did not exceed one
+hundred pounds. Upon these sledges we proposed lodging half our party
+alternately each night, placing them under the lee of the boat, and then
+stretching over them, as a sloped roof, a second awning, which we fitted
+for the purpose. Upon this plan we likewise could afford to make our
+boat considerably stronger, adding some stout iron knees to the supports
+of her runners, and increasing our store of materials for repairing her.
+The weight reduced by this arrangement would have been above two
+thousand pounds, without taking away any article conducive to our
+comfort, except the boat and her gear. I proposed to the officers and
+men who had been selected to accompany me this change in our equipment;
+and I need scarcely say that they all clearly saw the probable necessity
+of it, and cheerfully acquiesced in its adoption, if requisite.
+
+On the 29th I sent Lieutenants Foster and Crozier, with the greater part
+of the ship's company, and with a third or spare travelling-boat, to
+endeavour to land her on Red Beach, together with a quantity of stores,
+including provisions, as a deposite for us on our return from the
+northward, should it so happen, as was not improbable, that we should
+return to the eastward. It is impossible to describe the labour
+attending this attempt. Suffice it to say, that, after working for
+fourteen hours, they returned on board at midnight, having accomplished
+about four miles out of the six. The next day they returned to the boat,
+and, after several hours' exertion, landed her on the beach with the
+stores. What added to the fatigue of this service was the necessity of
+taking a small boat to cross pools of water on their return, so that
+they had to drag this boat both ways, besides that which they went to
+convey. Having, however, had an opportunity of trying what could be done
+upon a regular and level floe which lay close to the beach, everybody
+was of opinion, as I had always been, that we could easily travel twenty
+miles a day on ice of that kind.
+
+It will not be wondered at if the apparent hopelessness of getting the
+ship free for the present again suggested the necessity of my own
+setting out: and I had once more, on the 1st of June, after an anxious
+consultation with my officers, resolved on making a second attempt, when
+the ice near us, which had opened at regular hours with the tide for
+three or four days past, began to set us much more rapidly than usual to
+the eastward, and towards a low point which runs off from Red Beach,
+near its western end, causing us to shoal the water in a few hours from
+fifty-two to twenty fathoms, and on the following morning to fourteen
+and a half. By sending a lead-line over the ice a few hundred yards
+beyond us, we found ten fathoms water. However unfavourable the aspect
+of our affairs seemed before, this new change could not fail to alter it
+for the worse. The situation of the ship now, indeed, required my whole
+attention; for the ice occasionally opened and shut within twenty or
+twenty-five yards of us on the in-shore side, the ship herself was still
+very firmly imbedded by the turned up masses which pressed upon her on
+the 19th, and which, on the other side, as well as ahead and astern,
+were of considerable extent. Thus she formed, as it were, part of a
+floe, which went drifting about in the manner above described. This was
+of little importance while she was in sixty fathoms of water, as she was
+for the first fourteen days of our besetment, and a distance of five or
+six miles from the land; but now that she had shoaled the water so
+considerably, and approached the low point within two or three miles, it
+became a matter of importance to try whether any labour we could bestow
+upon it would liberate the ship from her present imbedded state, so as
+to be at least ready to take advantage of slack water, should any occur,
+to keep her off the shore. All hands were therefore set to work with
+handspikes, capstan-bars, and axes, it being necessary to detach every
+separate mass, however small, before the larger ones could be moved. The
+harassing and laborious nature of this operation is such as nothing but
+experience can possibly give an idea of, especially when, as in this
+case, we had only a small pool of clear water near the margin in which
+the detached pieces could be floated out. However, we continued at work,
+with only the necessary intermissions for rest and meals, during this
+and the two following days, and on the evening of the 3d had
+accomplished all that the closeness of the ice would permit; but the
+ship was still by no means free, numberless masses of ice being doubled
+under her, even below her keel, which could not be moved without more
+space for working.
+
+Painful as was this protracted delay in setting out upon the principal
+object of the expedition, the absolute necessity of it will scarcely, I
+think, be doubted by any person conversant in such matters. So long as
+the ship continued undisturbed by the ice, nearly stationary, and in
+deep water, for several days together, I had, in my anxiety to lose not
+a moment's time, ventured to flatter myself with the hope that, in a
+case of such unlooked-for emergency, when every moment of our short and
+uncertain season was of importance, I might be justified in quitting my
+ship at sea; and in this opinion the zeal of my officers, both those who
+were to accompany me and those who were to remain on board, induced them
+unanimously to concur. But the case was now materially altered; for it
+had become plain to every seaman in the ship, first, that the safety of
+the Hecla, if thus left with less than half her working hands, could not
+be reckoned upon for an hour; and, secondly, that no human foresight
+could enable us to conjecture, should we set out while she was thus
+situated, when or where we should find her on our return. In fact, it
+appeared to us at this time, as indeed it was, a very providential
+circumstance, that the impracticable nature of the ice for travelling
+had offered no encouragement to persevere in my original intention of
+setting out a week before this time.
+
+For the two following days we continued closely beset, but still driving
+to the eastward across the mouth of Weyde Bay, which is here six or
+seven miles in breadth, and appeared to be very deep, the land in the
+centre receding to a distance of full eight leagues. In the afternoon of
+the 6th, we had driven within five miles of a point of land, beyond
+which, to the eastward, it seemed to recede considerably; and this
+appearing to answer tolerably to the situation of Muscle or Mussel Bay,
+as laid down in most of the charts, I was very anxious to discover
+whether we could here find shelter for the ship. A lane of water leading
+towards the land at no great distance from us, I hauled a boat over the
+ice and then rowed on shore, accompanied by Lieutenant Foster and some
+of the other officers, taking with me another small store of provisions,
+to be deposited here, as a future resource for my party, should we
+approach this part of the coast.
+
+Landing at half past six P.M., and leaving Mr. Bird to bury the
+provisions, Lieutenant Foster and myself walked without delay to the
+eastward, and, on ascending the point, found that there was, as we had
+supposed, an indentation in the coast on the other side. We now began to
+conceive the most flattering hopes of discovering something like a
+harbour for the ship, and pushed on with all possible haste to examine
+the place farther; but, after three hours walking, were much mortified,
+on arriving at its head, to find that it was nothing but an open bay,
+entirely exposed to the inroads of all the northern ice, and therefore
+quite unfit for the ship. We returned to the boat greatly disappointed,
+and reached the Hecla at 1.30 A.M. on the 7th.
+
+I do not remember to have ever experienced in these regions such a
+continuance of beautiful weather as we now had, during more than three
+weeks that we had been on the northern coast of Spitzbergen. Day after
+day we had a clear and cloudless sky, scarcely any wind, and, with the
+exception of a few days previous to the 23d of May, a warm temperature
+in the shade, and quite a scorching sun. On the 3d of June we had a
+shower of rain, and on the 6th it rained pretty hard for two or three
+hours. After the 1st of June we could procure abundance of excellent
+water upon the ice, and by the end of the first week the floe-pieces
+were looking blue with it in some parts, and the snow had everywhere
+become too soft to bear a man's weight.
+
+On the 7th, the ship, still closely beset, had drifted much more to the
+eastward, being within a mile of the spot where the provisions had been
+deposited the preceding evening. There was now no other ice between us
+and the land except the floe to which we had been so long attached; and
+round this we were occasionally obliged to warp, whenever a little
+slackening of the ice permitted, in order to prevent our getting too
+near the rocks. In this situation of suspense and anxiety we still
+remained until the evening of the 8th, when a breeze at length springing
+up from the southward began to open out the ice from the point near
+which we lay. As soon as the channel was three or four hundred yards
+wide, we warped into the clear water, and, making sail, rounded the
+point in safety, having no soundings with twenty fathoms, at one third
+of a mile from a small rocky islet lying off it. In the mean time the
+wind had been driving the ice so fast off the land as to form for us a
+clear communication with the open water before seen to the eastward; and
+thus we were at length liberated from our confinement, after a close and
+tedious "besetment" of twenty-four days.
+
+The weather continued so thick, that, impatient as we were to stand in
+towards the eastern land, we could not venture to do so till eleven A.M.
+on the 10th, when we made sail towards Brandywine Bay, the wind being
+now from the W.S.W., or nearly dead upon that shore. The weather
+clearing up at 1.15 P.M., we saw the eastern land, and soon after
+discovered the grounded ice off Low Island; Walden's Island was also
+plainly in sight to the N.E. The bay seemed deeply indented, and very
+likely to afford nooks such as we wanted; and where so large a space of
+open water, and, consequently, some sea, had been exerting its influence
+for a considerable time, we flattered ourselves with the most sanguine
+hopes of now having access to the shores, sufficiently near, at least,
+for sawing into some place of shelter. How, then, shall I express our
+surprise and mortification in finding that the whole of the coast, from
+the islands northward to Black Point, and apparently also as far as
+Walden's Island, was rendered inaccessible by one continuous and heavy
+floe, everywhere attached to the shores, and to the numberless grounded
+masses about the island, this immense barrier being in some places six
+or seven miles in width, and not less than twelve feet in thickness near
+the margin.
+
+The prospect from our masthead at this time was certainly enough to cast
+a damp over every sanguine expectation I had formed, of being _soon_
+enabled to place the Hecla in security; and more willingly than ever
+would I, at this period, have persuaded myself, if possible, that I
+should be justified in quitting her at sea. Such, however, was the
+nature of this navigation, as regarded the combined difficulties arising
+from ice and a large extent of shoal and unsurveyed ground, that, even
+with our full complement of officers and men on board, all our strength
+and exertions might scarcely have sufficed, in a single gale of wind, to
+keep the ship tolerably secure, and much less could I have ensured
+placing her ultimately in any proper situation for picking up an absent
+party; for, if once again beset, she must, of course, be at the mercy of
+the ice. The conclusion was, therefore, irresistibly forced upon my
+mind, that thus to leave the ship would be to expose her to imminent and
+certain peril, rendering it impossible to conjecture where we should
+find her on our return, and, therefore, rashly to place all parties in a
+situation from which nothing but disaster could reasonably be expected
+to ensue.
+
+After beating through much ice, which was all of the drift or broken
+kind, and had all found its way hither in the last two days, we got into
+an open space of water in-shore, and about six miles to the northward of
+Low Island; and on the morning of the 13th stretched in towards Walden
+Island, around which we found, as we had feared, a considerable quantity
+of fixed ice. It was certainly much less here, than elsewhere; but the
+inner, or eastern side of the island was entirely enveloped by it.
+
+Having from twenty-six to twenty-four fathoms at the distance of four
+miles from Walden Island, I was preparing two boats, with the intention
+of going to sound about its northern point, which was the most clear of
+ice, and not without a faint hope of finding something like shelter
+there; but I was prevented by a thick fog coming on. Continuing,
+therefore, to beat to the northward, we passed occasionally a good deal
+of drift ice, but with every appearance of much clear water in that
+direction; and the weather clearing about midnight, we observed in
+latitude 80°43'32". The Seven Islands were in sight to the eastward, and
+the "Little Table Island" of Phipps bore E.N.E. (true) distant about
+nine or ten miles. It is a mere craggy rock, rising, perhaps, from four
+to five hundred feet above the level of the sea, and with a small low
+islet lying off its northern end. This island, being the northernmost
+known land in the world, naturally excited much of our curiosity; and
+bleak, and barren, and rugged as it is, one could not help gazing at it
+with intense interest.
+
+At midnight on the 14th we had reached the latitude 81°5'32" Our
+longitude by chronometers at this time was 19° 34' E., Little Table
+Island bearing S. 26° E. (true), distant six or seven leagues, and
+Walden Island S. 4° E.[019] The depth of water was ninety-seven fathoms,
+on a bottom of greenish mud; and the temperature at ninety-five fathoms,
+by Six's thermometer, was 29.8°, that at the surface being 31°, and of
+the air 28°. All that could here be seen to the northward was loose
+drift-ice. To the northeast it was particularly open, and I have no
+doubt that we might have gone many miles farther in that direction, had
+it not been a much more important object to keep the ship free than to
+push her to the northward.
+
+We now stood back again to the southward, in order again to examine the
+coast wherever we could approach it; but found, on the 15th, that none
+of the land was at all accessible, the wind having got round to the
+W.N.W., and loaded all the shores with drift-ice.
+
+Walden Island being the first part clear of the loose ice, we stretched
+in for it on the 16th, and, when within two miles, observed that about
+half that space was occupied by land-ice, even on its northwestern side,
+which was the only accessible one, the rest being wholly enclosed by it.
+However, being desirous of obtaining a better view than our crow's-nest
+commanded, and also of depositing here a small quantity of provisions,
+I left the ship at one P.M., accompanied by Lieutenant Foster in a
+second boat, and, landing upon the ice, walked over about three quarters
+of a mile of high and rugged hummocks to the shore. Ascending two or
+three hundred feet, we had a clear and extensive view of the Seven
+Islands, and of some land far beyond them to the eastward; and the whole
+sea was covered with one unbroken land-floe, attached to all the shores
+extending from the island where we stood, and which formed an abutment
+for it each way along the land as far as the eye could reach. After this
+discouraging prospect, which wholly destroyed every hope of finding a
+harbour among the Seven Islands, we returned to the place where the men
+had deposited the provisions, and, after making the necessary
+observations for the survey, returned immediately on board.
+
+Observing from the island that the sea was perfectly clear to the
+northward, we now stood for Little Table Island, with some slight hope
+that the rock off its northern end might afford shelter for the ship; at
+all events, being the most exposed, on account of its situation, it was
+the most likely to be free from ice. A thick fog prevented our getting
+near it till the morning of the 17th, when, having approached it within
+a mile and a half, I sent Lieutenant Ross on shore to a little islet,
+which was quite free from ice, where he deposited another small store of
+provisions, but found nothing like shelter for the ship.
+
+Having no farther business here, and the easterly wind still continuing,
+I thought the best thing we could do would be to run again to the
+southward of Low Island, and try once more to approach the shores about
+the entrance of the Waygatz Strait. We therefore bore up under all sail
+to the southwest.
+
+It would be vain to deny that I had lately begun to entertain the most
+serious apprehensions as related to the accomplishment of our principal
+object. The 17th of June had now arrived, and all that we saw afforded
+us the most discouraging prospect as to our getting the Hecla into
+harbour; while every day's experience showed how utterly rash a measure
+it would be to think of quitting her in her present situation, which,
+even with all her officers and men, was one of extreme precariousness
+and uncertainty.
+
+On the evening of the 18th, while standing in for the high land to the
+eastward of Verlegen Hook, which, with due attention to the lead, may be
+approached with safety, we perceived from the crow's-nest what appeared
+a low point, possibly affording some shelter for the ship, and which
+seemed to answer to an indentation of the coast laid down in an old
+Dutch chart, and there called _Treurenburg Bay_.
+
+On the following morning I proceeded to examine the place, accompanied
+by Lieutenant Ross in a second boat, and, to our great joy, found it a
+considerable bay, with one part affording excellent landlocked anchorage
+and, what was equally fortunate, sufficiently clear of ice to allow the
+ship to enter. Having sounded the entrance and determined on the
+anchorage, we returned to the ship to bring her in; and I cannot
+describe the satisfaction which the information of our success
+communicated to every individual on board. The main object of our
+enterprise now appeared almost within our grasp, and everybody seemed
+anxious to make up, by renewed exertions, for the time we had
+unavoidably lost. The ship was towed and warped in with the greatest
+alacrity, and at 1.40 A.M. on June 20th, we dropped the anchor in Hecla
+Cove, in thirteen fathoms, on a bottom of very tenacious blue clay, and
+made some hawsers fast to the land-ice, which still filled all the upper
+part of the bay. After resting a few hours, we sawed a canal a quarter
+of a mile in length, through which the ship was removed into a better
+situation, a bower-cable taken on shore and secured to the rocks, and an
+anchor, with the chain-cable, laid out the other way. On the morning of
+the 21st we hauled the launch up on the beach, it being my intention to
+direct such resources of every kind to be landed as would render our
+party wholly independent of the ship, either for returning to England or
+for wintering, in case of the ship being driven to sea by the ice; a
+contingency against which, in these regions, no precaution can
+altogether provide. I directed Lieutenant Foster, upon whom the charge
+of the Hecla was now to devolve, to land without delay the necessary
+stores, keeping the ship seaworthy by taking in an equal quantity of
+ballast; and, as soon as he should be satisfied of her security from
+ice, to proceed on the survey of the eastern coast; but, should he see
+reason to doubt her safety with a still farther diminution of her crew
+to relinquish the survey, and attend exclusively to the ship. I also
+gave directions that notices should be sent, in the course of the
+summer, to the various stations where our depots of provisions were
+established, acquainting me with the situation and state of the ship,
+and giving me any other information which might be necessary for my
+guidance on our return from the northward. These and other arrangements
+being completed, I left the ship at five P.M. with our two boats, which
+we named the Enterprise and Endeavour, Mr. Beverly being attached to my
+own, and Lieutenant Ross, accompanied by Mr. Bird, in the other. Besides
+these, I took Lieutenant Crozier in one of the ship's cutters, for the
+purpose of carrying some of our weight as far as Walden Island, and also
+a third store of provisions to be deposited on Low Island, as an
+intermediate station between Walden Island and the ship. As it was still
+necessary not to delay our return beyond the end of August, the time
+originally intended, I took, with me only seventy-one days provisions;
+which, including the boats and every other article, made up a weight of
+268 lbs. per man; and as it appeared highly improbable, from what we had
+seen of the very rugged nature of the ice we should first have to
+encounter, that either the reindeer, the snow-shoes, or the wheels would
+prove of any service for some time to come, I gave up the idea of taking
+them. We, however, constructed out of the snow-shoes four excellent
+sledges for dragging a part of our baggage over the ice; and these
+proved of invaluable service to us, while the rest of the things just
+mentioned would only have been an encumbrance.
+
+Having received the usual salutation of three cheers from those we left
+behind, we paddled through a quantity of loose ice at the entrance of
+the bay, and then steered, in a perfectly open sea, and with calm and
+beautiful weather, for the western part of Low Island, which we reached
+at half past two on the morning of the 22d.
+
+Having deposited the provisions, we set off at four A.M., paddling watch
+and watch, to give the people a little rest. It was still quite calm;
+but there being much ice about the island, and a thick fog coming on, we
+were several hours groping our way clear of it. The walruses were here
+very numerous, lying in herds upon the ice, and plunging into the water
+to follow us as we passed. The sound they utter is something between
+bellowing and very loud snorting, which, together with their grim,
+bearded countenances and long tusks, makes them appear, as indeed they
+are, rather formidable enemies to contend with. Under our present
+circumstances, we were very well satisfied not to molest them, for they
+would soon have destroyed our boats if one had been wounded; but I
+believe they are never the first to make the attack. We landed upon the
+ice still attached to Walden Island at 3.30 A.M. on the 23d. Our
+flat-bottomed boats rowed heavily with their loads, but proved perfectly
+safe, and very comfortable. The men being much fatigued, we rested here
+some hours, and, after making our final arrangements with Lieutenant
+Crozier, parted with him at three in the afternoon, and set off for
+Little Table Island. Finding there was likely to be so much open water
+in this neighbourhood in the autumn, I sent directions to Lieutenant
+Foster to have a spare boat deposited at Walden Island in time for our
+return, in case of any accident happening to ours.
+
+The land-ice, which still adhered to the Seven Islands, was very little
+more broken off than when the Hecla had been here a week before; and we
+rowed along its margin a part of the way to Little Table Island, where
+we arrived at ten P.M. We here examined and re-secured the provisions
+left on shore, having found our depôt at Walden Island disturbed by the
+bears. The prospect to the northward at this time was very favourable,
+there being only a small quantity of loose ice in sight; and the weather
+still continuing calm and clear, with the sea as smooth as a mirror, we
+set off without delay, at half past ten, taking our final leave of the
+Spitzbergen shores, as we hoped, for at least two months. Steering due
+north, we made good progress, our latitude by the sun's meridian
+altitude at midnight being 80° 51' 13". A beautifully-coloured rainbow
+appeared for some time, without any appearance of rain falling. We
+observed that a considerable current was setting us to the eastward just
+after leaving the land, so that we had made a N.N.E. course, distance
+about ten miles, when we met with some ice, which soon becoming too
+close for farther progress, we landed upon a high hummock to obtain a
+better view. We here perceived that the ice was close to the northward,
+but to the westward we discovered some open water, which we reached
+after two or three hours' paddling, and found it a wide expanse, in
+which we sailed to the northward without obstruction, a fresh breeze
+having sprung up from the S.W. The weather soon after became very thick,
+with continued snow, requiring great care in looking out for the ice,
+which made its appearance after two hours' run, and gradually became
+closer, till at length we were stopped by it at noon, and obliged to
+haul the boats upon a small floe-piece, our latitude by observation
+being 81° 12' 51".
+
+Our plan of travelling being nearly the same throughout this excursion,
+after we first entered upon the ice, I may at once give some account of
+our usual mode of proceeding. It was my intention to travel wholly at
+night, and to rest by day, there being, of course, constant daylight in
+these regions during the summer season. The advantages of this plan,
+which was occasionally deranged by circumstances, consisted, first, in
+our avoiding the intense and oppressive glare from the snow during the
+time of the sun's greatest altitude, so as to prevent, in some degree,
+the painful inflammation in the eyes called "snow blindness," which is
+common in all snowy countries. We also thus enjoyed greater warmth
+during the hours of rest, and had a better chance of drying our clothes;
+besides which, no small advantage was derived from the snow being harder
+at night for travelling. The only disadvantage of this plan was, that
+the fogs were somewhat more thick by night than by day, though even in
+this respect there was less difference than might have been supposed,
+the temperature during the twenty-four hours undergoing but little
+variation. This travelling by night and sleeping by day so completely
+inverted the natural order of things, that it was difficult to persuade
+ourselves of the reality. Even the officers and myself, who were all
+furnished with pocket chronometers, could not always bear in mind at
+what part of the twenty-four hours we had arrived; and there were
+several of the men who declared, and I believe truly, that they, never
+knew night from day during the whole excursion.[020]
+
+When we rose in the evening, we commenced our day by prayers, after
+which we took off our fur sleeping-dresses and put on those for
+travelling; the former being made of camlet, lined with racoon-skin, and
+the latter of strong blue box-cloth. We made a point of always putting
+on the same stockings and boots for travelling in, whether they dried
+during the day or not; and I believe it was only in five or six
+instances, at the most, that they were not either wet or hard-frozen.
+This, indeed, was of no consequence, beyond the discomforture of first
+putting them on in this state, as they were sure to be thoroughly wet in
+a quarter of an hour after commencing our journey; while, on the other
+hand, it was of vital importance to keep dry things for sleeping in.
+Being "rigged" for travelling, we breakfasted upon warm cocoa and
+biscuit, and, after stowing the things in the boats and on the sledges,
+so as to secure them as much as possible from wet, we set off on our
+day's journey, and usually travelled from five to five and a half hours,
+then stopped an hour to dine, and again travelled four, five, or even
+six hours, according to circumstances. After this we halted for the
+night, as we called it, though it was usually early in the morning,
+selecting the largest surface of ice we happened to be near for hauling
+the boats on, in order to avoid the danger of its breaking up by coming
+in contact with other masses, and also to prevent drift as much as
+possible. The boats were placed close alongside each other, with their
+sterns to the wind, the snow or wet cleared out of them, and the sails,
+supported by the bamboo masts and three paddles, placed over them as
+awnings, an entrance being left at the bow. Every man then immediately
+put on dry stockings and fur boots, after which we set about the
+necessary repairs of boats, sledges, or clothes; and, after serving the
+provisions for the succeeding day, we went to supper. Most of the
+officers and men then smoked their pipes, which served to dry the boats
+and awnings very much, and usually raised the temperature of our
+lodgings 10° or 15°. This part of the twenty-four hours was often a
+time, and the only one, of real enjoyment to us; the men told their
+stories and "fought all their battles o'er again," and the labours of
+the day, unsuccessful as they too often were, were forgotten. A regular
+watch was set during our resting-time, to look out for bears or for the
+ice breaking up round us, as well as to attend to the drying of the
+clothes, each man alternately, taking this duty for one hour. We then
+concluded our day with prayers, and, having put on our fur-dresses, lay
+down to sleep with a degree of comfort, which perhaps few persons would
+imagine possible under such circumstances; our chief inconvenience being
+that we were somewhat pinched for room, and therefore obliged to stow
+rather closer than was quite agreeable. The temperature, while we
+slept, was usually from 36° to 45°, according to the state of the
+external atmosphere; but on one or two occasions in calm and warm
+weather, it rose as high as 60° to 66°, obliging us to throw off a part
+of our fur-dress. After we had slept seven hours, the man appointed to
+boil the cocoa roused us when it was ready by the sound of a bugle, when
+we commenced our day in the manner before described.
+
+Our allowance of provisions for each man per day was as follows:
+
+
+Biscuit                 10 ounces.
+Pemmican                 9 ounces.
+Sweetened Cocoa Powder   1 ounce, to make one pint.
+Rum                      1 gill.
+Tobacco                  3 ounces per week.
+
+
+Our fuel consisted entirely of spirits of wine, of which two pints
+formed our daily allowance, the cocoa being cooked in an iron boiler
+over a shallow iron lamp, with seven wicks; a simple apparatus, which
+answered our purpose remarkably well. We usually found one pint of the
+spirits of wine sufficient for preparing our breakfast, that is, for
+heating twenty-eight pints of water, though it always commenced from the
+temperature of 32°. If the weather was calm and fair, this quantity of
+fuel brought it to the boiling point in about an hour and a quarter; but
+more generally the wicks began to go out before it had reached. 200°.
+This, however, made a very comfortable meal to persons situated as we
+were. Such, with very little variation, was our regular routine during
+the whole of this excursion.
+
+We set off on our first journey over the ice at ten P.M. on the 24th,
+Table Island bearing S.S.W., and a fresh breeze blowing from W.S.W.,
+with thick fog, which afterward changed to rain. The bags of pemmican
+were placed upon the sledges, and the bread in the boats, with the
+intention of securing the latter from wet; but this plan we were soon
+obliged to relinquish. We now commenced upon very slow and laborious
+travelling, the pieces of ice being of small extent and very rugged,
+obliging us to make three journeys, and sometimes four, with the boats
+and baggage, and to launch several times across narrow pools of water.
+We stopped to dine at five A.M. on the 25th, having made, by our log
+(which we kept very carefully, marking the courses by compass, and
+estimating the distances), about two miles and a half of northing; and,
+again setting forward, proceeded till eleven A.M., when we halted to
+rest; our latitude, by observation at noon, being 81° 15' 13".
+
+Setting out again at half past nine in the evening, we found our way to
+lie over nothing but small, loose, rugged masses of ice, separated by
+little pools of water, obliging us constantly to launch and haul up the
+boats, each of which operations required them to be unloaded, and
+occupied nearly a quarter of an hour. It came on to rain very hard on
+the morning of the 26th; and, finding we were making very little
+progress (having advanced not more than half a mile in four hours), and
+that our clothes would be soon wet through, we halted at half past one,
+and took shelter under the awnings. The weather improving at six
+o'clock, we again moved forward, and travelled till a quarter past
+eleven, when we hauled the boats upon the only tolerably large
+floe-piece in sight. The rain had very much increased the quantity of
+water lying upon the ice, of which nearly half the surface was now
+covered with numberless little ponds of various shapes and extent. It is
+a remarkable fact, that we had already experienced, in the course of
+this summer, more rain than during the whole of seven previous summers
+taken together, though passed in latitudes from 7° to 15° lower than
+this. A great deal of the ice over which we passed to-day presented a
+very curious appearance and structure, being composed, on its upper
+surface, of numberless irregular, needle-like crystals, placed
+vertically, and nearly close together; their length varying, in
+different pieces of ice, from five to ten inches, and their breadth in
+the middle about half an inch, but pointed at both ends. The upper
+surface of ice having this structure sometimes looks like greenish
+velvet; a vertical section of it, which frequently occurs at the margin
+of floes, resembles, while it remains compact, the most beautiful
+satin-spar, and asbestos when falling to pieces. At this early part of
+the season, this kind of ice afforded pretty firm footing; but, as the
+summer advanced, the needles became more loose and moveable, rendering
+it extremely fatiguing to walk over them, besides cutting our boots and
+feet, on which account the men called them "penknives."
+
+We pursued our journey at half past nine P.M., with the wind at N.E.,
+and thick weather, the ice being so much in motion as to make it very
+dangerous to cross in loaded boats, the masses being all very small. On
+this account we halted at midnight, having waded three quarters of a
+mile through water from two to five inches deep upon the ice. The
+thermometer was at 33°.
+
+At seven A.M. on the 28th, we came to a floe covered with high and
+rugged hummocks, which opposed a formidable obstacle to our progress,
+occurring in two or three successive tiers, so that we had no sooner
+crossed one than another presented itself. Over one of these we hauled
+the boats with extreme difficulty by a "standing pull," and the weather
+being then so thick that we could see no pass across the next tier, we
+were obliged to stop at nine A.M. While performing this laborious work,
+which required the boats to be got up and down places almost
+perpendicular, James Parker, my coxswain, received a severe contusion in
+his back, by the boat falling upon him from a hummock, and the boats
+were constantly subject to very heavy blows, but sustained no
+damage.[021] The weather continued very foggy during the day, but a
+small lane of water opening out at no great distance from the margin of
+the floe, we launched the boats at eight in the evening among loose
+drift-ice, and, after some time, landed on a small floe to the eastward,
+the only one in sight, with the hope of its leading to the northward. It
+proved so rugged that we were obliged to make three, and sometimes four
+journeys with the boats and provisions, and this by a very circuitous
+route; so that the road, by which we made a mile of northing, was full a
+mile and a half in length, and over this we had to travel at least five,
+and sometimes seven times. Thus, when we halted to dine at two A.M.,
+after six hours' severe toil, and much risk to the men and boats, we had
+only accomplished about a mile and a quarter in a N.N.E. direction.
+After dining we proceeded again till half past six, and then halted,
+very much fatigued with our day's work, and having made two miles and a
+half of northing. We were here in latitude, by account, 81° 23", and in
+longitude, by the chronometers, 21° 32' 34" E., in which situation the
+variation of the magnetic needle was observed to be 15° 31' westerly. We
+now enjoyed the first sunshine since our entering the ice, and a great
+enjoyment it was, after so much thick and wet weather. We rose at half
+past four P.M., in the hopes of pursuing our journey; but, after hauling
+the boats to the edge of the floe, found such a quantity of loose,
+rugged ice to the northward of us, that there was no possibility, for
+the present, of getting across or through it. Observing a small opening
+at 10.30 P.M., we launched the boats, and hauled them across several
+pieces of ice, some of them being very light and much decayed. Our
+latitude, by the sun's meridian altitude at midnight, was 81° 23'; so
+that we had made only eight miles of northing since our last observation
+at noon on the 25th.
+
+The 30th commenced with snowy and inclement weather, which soon rendered
+the atmosphere so thick that we could no longer see our way, obliging us
+to halt till two P.M., when we crossed several small pools with great
+labour and loss of time. We had generally very light ice this day, with
+some heavy, rugged pieces intermixed; and, when hauling across these, we
+had sometimes to cut with axes a passage for the boats among the
+hummocks. We also dragged them through a great many pools of fresh
+water, to avoid the necessity of going round them. The wind freshening
+up from the S.S.W., we afterward found the ice gradually more and more
+open, so that, in the course of the day, we made by rowing, though by a
+very winding channel, five miles of northing; but were again stopped by
+the ice soon after midnight, and obliged to haul up on the first mass
+that we could gain, the ice having so much motion that we narrowly
+escaped being "nipped." We set out at 11.30 A.M. on the 1st July, the
+wind still fresh from the S.W., and some snow falling: but it was more
+than an hour before we could get away from the small pieces of ice on
+which we slept, the masses beyond being so broken up and so much in
+motion, that we could not, at first, venture to launch the boats. Our
+latitude, observed at noon, was 81° 30' 41". After crossing several
+pieces, we at length got into a good "lead" of water, four or five miles
+in length; two or three of which, as on the preceding day, occurred
+under the lee of a floe, being the second we had yet seen that deserved
+that name. We then passed over four or five small floes, and across the
+pools of water that lay between them. The ice was now less broken up,
+and sometimes tolerably level; but from six to eighteen inches of soft
+snow lay upon it in every part, making the travelling very fatiguing,
+and obliging us to make at least two, and sometimes three, journeys
+with our loads. We now found it absolutely necessary to lighten the boat
+as much as possible, by putting the bread-bags on the sledges, on
+account of the "runners" of the boats sinking so much deeper into the
+snow; but our bread ran a great risk of being wetted by this plan.
+
+We halted at eleven P.M. on the 1st, having traversed from ten to eleven
+miles, and made good, by our account, seven and half in a N.b.W.
+direction. We again set forward at ten A.M. on the 2d, the weather being
+calm, and the sun oppressively warm, though with a thick fog. The
+temperature in the shade was 35° at noon, and only 47° in the sun; but
+this, together with the glare from the snow, produced so painful a
+sensation in most of our eyes, as to make it necessary to halt at one
+P.M., to avoid being blinded. We therefore took advantage of this warm
+weather to let the men wash themselves, and mend and dry their clothes,
+and then set out again at half past three. The snow was, however, so
+soft as to take us up to our knees at almost every other step, and
+frequently still deeper; so that we were sometimes five minutes together
+in moving a single empty boat, with all our united strength. It being
+impossible to proceed under these circumstances, I determined to fall
+into our night-travelling again, from which we had of late insensibly
+deviated. We therefore halted at half past five, the weather being now
+very clear and warm, and many of the people's eyes beginning to fail. We
+did not set out again till after midnight, with the intention of giving
+the snow time to harden after so warm a day; but we found it still so
+soft as to make the travelling very fatiguing. Our way lay at first
+across a number of loose pieces, most of which were from five to twenty
+yards apart, or just sufficiently separated to give us all the labour of
+launching and hauling up the boats, without the advantage of making any
+progress by water; while we crossed, in other instances, from mass to
+mass, by laying the boats over as bridges, by which the men and the
+baggage passed. By these means, we at length reached a floe about a mile
+in length, in a northern direction; but it would be difficult to convey
+an adequate idea of the labour required to traverse it. The average
+depth of snow upon the level parts was about five inches, under which
+lay water four or five inches deep; but, the moment we approached a
+hummock, the depth to which we sank increased to three feet or more,
+rendering it difficult at times to obtain sufficient footing for one leg
+to enable us to extricate the other. The pools of fresh water had now
+also become very large, some of them being a quarter of a mile in
+length, and their depth above our knees. Through these we were prevented
+taking the sledges, for fear of wetting all our provisions; but we
+preferred transporting the boats across them, notwithstanding the severe
+cold of the snow-water, the bottom being harder for the "runners" to
+slide upon. On this kind of road we were, in one instance, above two
+hours in proceeding a distance of one hundred yards.
+
+We halted at half past six A.M. to dine; and to empty our boots and
+wring our stockings, which, to our feelings, was almost like putting on
+dry ones; and again set out in an hour, getting at length into a "lane"
+of water a mile and a quarter long, in a N.N.E. direction. We halted for
+the night at half an hour before midnight, the people being almost
+exhausted with a laborious day's work, and our distance made good to the
+northward not exceeding two miles and a quarter. We allowed ourselves
+this night a hot supper, consisting of a pint of soup per man, made of
+an ounce of pemmican each, and eight or ten birds, which we had killed
+in the course of the last week; and this was a luxury which persons thus
+situated could perhaps alone duly appreciate.
+
+We rose and breakfasted at nine P.M.; but the weather had gradually
+become so inclement and thick, with snow, sleet, and a fresh breeze from
+the eastward, that we could neither have seen our way, nor have avoided
+getting wet through had we moved. We therefore remained under cover; and
+it was as well that we did so, for the snow soon after changed to heavy
+rain, and the wind increased to a fresh gale, which unavoidably detained
+us till 7.30 P.M. on the 4th. The rain had produced even a greater
+effect than the sun in softening the snow. Lieutenant Ross and myself,
+in performing our pioneering duty, were frequently so beset in it, that
+sometimes, after trying in vain to extricate our legs, we were obliged
+to sit quietly down for a short time to rest ourselves and then make
+another attempt; and the men, in dragging the sledges, were often under
+the necessity of crawling upon all-fours to make any progress at all.
+Nor would any kind of snow-shoes have been of the least service, but
+rather an encumbrance to us, for the surface was so irregular, that they
+would have thrown us down at every other step. We had hitherto made use
+of the Lapland shoes, or _kamoogas_, for walking in, which are excellent
+for dry snow; but there being now so much water upon the ice, we
+substituted the Esquimaux boots, which had been made in Greenland
+expressly for our use, and which are far superior to any others for this
+kind of travelling. Just before halting, at six A.M. on the 5th, the ice
+at the margin of the floe broke while the men were handing the
+provisions out of the boats; and we narrowly escaped the loss of a bag
+of cocoa, which fell overboard, but fortunately rested on a "tongue."
+The bag being made of Mackintosh's waterproof canvass, the cocoa did not
+suffer the slightest injury.
+
+We rose at five P.M., the weather being clear and fine, with a moderate
+breeze from the south; no land was in sight from the highest hummocks,
+nor could we perceive anything but broken loose ice in any direction. We
+hauled across several pieces which were scarcely fit to bear the weight
+of the boats, and in such cases used the precaution of dividing our
+baggage, so that, in case of the ice breaking or turning over, we should
+not lose all at once. The farther we proceeded, the more the ice was
+broken; indeed, it was much more so here than we had found it since
+first entering the "pack." After stopping at midnight to dine and to
+obtain the meridian altitude, we passed over a floe full of hummocks, a
+mile and a half in length; but any kind of floe was relief to us after
+the constant difficulty we had experienced in passing over loose ice.
+
+After several hours of very beautiful weather, a thick fog came on
+early on the morning of the 6th July, and at five A.M. we halted, having
+got to the end of the floe, and only made good two miles and a half to
+the northward. The fog continued very thick all day; but, being
+unwilling to stop on this account, we set out again at half past six in
+the evening, and passed over several small flat pieces with no great
+difficulty, but with much loss of time in launching and hauling up the
+boats. Towards the end of our day's journey, we landed on the only
+really level floe we had yet met with. It was, however, only three
+quarters of a mile in length, but, being almost clear of snow, afforded
+such good travelling, that, although much fatigued at the time, we
+hauled the boats and all the baggage across it at one journey, at the
+rate of about two miles an hour, and halted at the northern margin at
+five A.M. on the 7th. The prospect beyond was still very unfavourable,
+and at eight in the evening, when we again launched the boats, there was
+not a piece of large or level ice to be seen in a northern direction.
+
+We halted at six A.M. on the 8th, in time to avoid a great deal of rain
+which fell during the day, and again proceeded on our journey at eight
+in the evening, the wind being fresh from the E.S.E., with thick, wet
+weather. We now met with detached ice of a still lighter kind than
+before, the only floe in sight being much to the eastward of our course.
+This we reached after considerable labour, in the hope of its leading to
+the northward, which it did for about one mile, and we then came to the
+same kind of loose ice as before. On the morning of the 9th July, we
+enjoyed the indescribable comfort of two or three hours' clear, dry
+weather, but had scarcely hung up our wet clothes, after halting at five
+A.M., when it again came on to rain; but, as everything was as wet as it
+could be, we left them out to take their chance. The rain continued most
+of the day, but we set out at half past seven P.M., crossing loose ice,
+as usual, and much of the surface consisting of detached vertical
+needles. After an hour, the rain became so heavy that we halted to save
+our shirts, which were the only dry clothes' belonging to us. Soon after
+midnight, the rain being succeeded by one of the thickest fogs I ever
+saw, we again proceeded, groping our way almost yard by yard from one
+small piece of ice to another, and were very fortunate in hitting upon
+some with level surfaces, and also a few tolerable-sized holes of water.
+At half past two we reached a floe which appeared at first a level and
+large one; but, on landing, we were much mortified to find it so covered
+with immense ponds, or, rather, small lakes of fresh water, that, to
+accomplish two miles in a north direction, we were under the necessity
+of walking from three to four, the water being too deep for wading, and
+from two hundred yards to one third of a mile in length. We halted at
+six A.M., having made only one mile and three quarters in a N.N.W.
+direction, the wind still blowing fresh from the eastward, with a thick
+fog. We were in latitude 82° 3' 19", and longitude, by chronometers, 23°
+17' E., and we found the variation of the magnetic needle to be 13° 41'
+westerly. We moved again at seven P.M., with the weather nearly as foggy
+as before, our road lying across a very hummocky floe, on which we had
+considerable difficulty in getting the boats, the ice being extremely
+unfavourable both for launching and hauling them up. After stopping an
+hour at midnight to dine, we were again annoyed by a heavy fall of rain,
+a phenomenon almost as new to us in these regions until this summer, as
+it was harassing and unhealthy. Being anxious, however, to take
+advantage of a lane of water that seemed to lead northerly, we launched
+the boats, and by the time that we had crossed it, which gave us only
+half a mile of northing, the rain had become much harder, and our outer
+clothes, bread bags, and boats were thoroughly wet. After this we had
+better travelling on the ice, and also crossed one or two larger holes
+of water than we had met with for a long time, and halted for our
+night's rest at half past seven A.M., after nearly twelve hours' hard,
+but not altogether unsuccessful labour, having traversed about twelve
+miles, and made good by our account, seven and a half, in a N.W.b.N.
+direction. The rain ceased soon after we had halted, but was succeeded,
+by a thick, wet fog, which obliged us, when we continued our journey, to
+put on our travelling clothes in the same dripping state as when we took
+them off. The wind continued fresh from the southeastward, and at nine
+P.M. the weather suddenly cleared up, and gave us once more the
+inconceivably cheering, I had almost said the blessed, sight of a blue
+sky, with hard, well-defined white clouds floating across it. We halted
+at six A.M., after making, by our day's exertions, only three miles and
+a half of northing, our latitude at this time being 82° 14' 28", and our
+longitude, by chronometers, 22° 4' E. The thermometer was from 35° to
+36° in the shade during most of the day, and this, with a clear sky over
+head, was now absolute luxury to us. Setting out again at seven P.M., we
+crossed a small lane of water to another floe; but this was so
+intersected by ponds, and by streams running into the sea, that we had
+to make a very circuitous route, some of the ponds being half-a mile in
+length. Notwithstanding the immense quantity of water still upon the
+ice, and which always afforded us a pure and abundant supply of this
+indispensable article, we now observed a mark round the banks of all the
+ponds, showing that the water was less deep in them, by several inches,
+than it had been somewhat earlier in the summer; and, indeed, from about
+this time, some small diminution in its quantity began to be perceptible
+to ourselves. We halted for our resting-time at six A.M. on the 13th,
+having gained only two miles and a half of northing, over a road of
+about four, and this accomplished by ten hours of fatiguing exertion. We
+were here in latitude, by the noon observation, 82° 17' 10", and could
+find no bottom with four hundred fathoms of line. We launched the boats
+at seven in the evening, the wind being moderate from the E.S.E., with
+fine, clear weather, and were still mortified in finding that no
+improvement took place in the road over which we had to travel; for the
+ice now before us was, if possible, more broken up and more difficult to
+pass over than ever. Much of it was also so thin as to be extremely
+dangerous for the provisions; and it was often a nervous thing to see
+our whole means of existence lying on a decayed sheet, having holes
+quite through it in many parts, and which the smallest motion among the
+surrounding masses might have instantly broken into pieces. There was,
+however, no choice, except between this road and the more rugged though
+safer hummocks, which cost ten times the labour to pass over. Mounting
+one of the highest of these at nine P.M., we could discover nothing to
+the north, ward but the same broken and irregular surface; and we now
+began to doubt whether we should at all meet with the solid fields of
+unbroken ice which every account had led us to expect in a much lower
+latitude than this. A very strong, yellow ice-blink overspread the whole
+northern horizon.
+
+We stopped to dine at half an hour past midnight, after more than five
+hours unceasing labour, in the course of which time we had only
+accomplished a mile and a half due north, though we had traversed from
+three to four, and walked at least ten, having made three journeys a
+great part of the way. We had launched and hauled up the boats four
+times, and dragged them over twenty-five separate pieces of ice. After
+dinner we continued the same kind of travelling, which was, beyond all
+description, harrassing to the officers and men. In crossing from mass
+to mass, several of which were separated about half the length of our
+sledges, the officers were stationed at the most difficult places to see
+that no precaution, was omitted which could ensure the safety of the
+provisions. Only one individual was allowed to jump over at a time, or
+to stand near either margin, for fear of the weight being too great for
+it; and when three or four men had separately crossed, the sledge was
+cautiously drawn up to the edge, and the word being given, the men
+suddenly ran away with the ropes, so as to allow no time for its
+falling in if the ice should break. Having at length succeeded in
+reaching a small floe, we halted at half past six A.M., much wearied by
+nearly eleven hours' exertion, by which we had only advanced three miles
+and a half in a N.N.W. direction. We rose at six P.M., and prepared to
+set out, but it rained so hard and so incessantly that it would have
+been impossible to move without a complete drenching. It held up a
+little at five, and at six we set out; but the rain soon recommenced,
+though less heavily than before. At eight the rain again became heavier,
+and we got under shelter of our awnings for a quarter of an hour, to
+keep our shirts and other flannel clothes dry; these being the only
+things we now had on which were not thoroughly wet. At nine we did the
+same, but before ten were obliged to halt altogether, the rain coming
+down in torrents, and the men being much exhausted by continued wet and
+cold, though the thermometer was at 36°, which was somewhat above our
+usual temperature. At half past seven P.M. we again pursued our journey,
+and, after much laborious travelling, we were fortunate, considering the
+fog, in hitting upon a floe which proved the longest we had yet crossed,
+being three miles from south to north, though alternately rugged and
+flat. From this we launched into a lane of water half a mile long from
+east to west, but which only gave us a hundred and fifty yards of
+northing.
+
+The floe on which we stopped to dine, at one A.M. on the 16th, was not
+more than four feet thick, and its extent half a mile square; and on
+this we had the rare advantage of carrying all our loads at one journey.
+At half past six the fog cleared away, and gave us beautiful weather
+for drying our clothes, and once more the cheerful sight of the blue
+sky. We halted at half past seven, after being twelve hours on the road,
+having made a N.b.W. course, distance only six miles and a quarter,
+though we had traversed nine miles. We saw, during this last journey, a
+mallemucke and a second Ross gull: and a couple of small flies (to us an
+event of ridiculous importance) were found upon the ice.
+
+We again pursued our way at seven in the evening, having the unusual
+comfort of putting on dry stockings, and the no less rare luxury of
+delightfully pleasant weather, the wind being moderate from the S.S.E.
+It was so warm in the sun, though the temperature in the shade was only
+35°, that the tar was running out of the seams of the boats; and a
+blackened bulb held against the paint-work raised the thermometer to
+72°. The floes were larger to-day, and the ice, upon the whole, of
+heavier dimensions than any we had yet met with. The general thickness
+of the floes, however, did not exceed nine or ten feet, which is not
+more than the usual thickness of those in Baffin's Bay and Hudson's
+Strait.
+
+The 17th of July being one of the days on which the Royal Society of
+Edinburgh have proposed to institute a series of simultaneous
+meteorological observations, we commenced an hourly register of every
+phenomenon which came under our notice, and which our instruments and
+other circumstances would permit, and continued most of them throughout
+the day. Our latitude, observed at noon, was 82° 32' 10", being more
+than a mile to the southward of the reckoning, though the wind had been
+constantly from that quarter during the twenty-four hours.
+
+After midnight the road became, if possible, worse, and the prospect to
+the northward more discouraging than before; nothing but loose and very
+small pieces of ice being in sight, over which the boats were dragged
+almost entirely by a "standing-pull." The men were so exhausted with
+their day's work, that it was absolutely necessary to give them
+something hot for supper, and we again served a little cocoa for that
+purpose. They were also put into good spirits by our having killed a
+small seal, which, the following night, gave us an excellent supper. The
+meat of these young animals is tender, and free from oiliness; but it
+certainly has a smell and a look which would not have been agreeable to
+any but very hungry people like ourselves. We also considered it a great
+prize on account of its blubber, which gave us fuel sufficient for
+cooking six hot messes for our whole party, though the animal only
+weighed thirty pounds in the whole.
+
+Setting out at half past seven in the evening, we found the sun more
+distressing to the eyes than we had ever yet had it, bidding defiance to
+our crape veils and wire-gauze eye-shades;[022] but a more effectual
+screen was afforded by the sun becoming clouded about nine P.M. At half
+past nine we came to a very difficult crossing among the loose ice,
+which, however, we were encouraged to attempt by seeing a floe of some
+magnitude beyond it. We had to convey the sledges and provisions one
+way, and to haul the boats over by another. One of the masses over which
+the boats came began to roll about while one of them was upon it, giving
+us reason to apprehend its upsetting, which must have been attended with
+some very serious consequence: fortunately, however, it retained its
+equilibrium long enough to allow us to get the boat past it in safety,
+not without several of the men falling overboard, in consequence of the
+long jumps we had to make, and the edges breaking with their weight.
+
+On the morning of the 20th we came to a good deal of ice, which formed a
+striking contrast with the other, being composed of flat bay-floes, not
+three feet thick, which would have afforded us good travelling had they
+not recently been broken into small pieces, obliging us to launch
+frequently from one to another. These floes had been the product of the
+last winter only, having probably been formed in some of the interstices
+left between the larger bodies; and, from what we saw of them, there
+could be little doubt of their being all dissolved before the next
+autumnal frost. We halted at seven A.M., having, by our reckoning,
+accomplished six miles and a half in a N.N.W. direction, the distance
+traversed being ten miles and a half. It may therefore be imagined how
+great was our mortification in finding that our latitude, by observation
+at noon, was only 82° 36' 52", being less than _five_ miles to the
+northward of our place at noon on the 17th, since which time we had
+certainly travelled _twelve_ in that direction.
+
+At five A.M. on the 21st, having gone ahead, as usual, upon a bay-floe,
+to search for the best road, I heard a more than ordinary noise and
+bustle among the people who were bringing up the boats behind. On
+returning to them, I found that we had narrowly, and most
+providentially, escaped a serious calamity; the floe having broken under
+the weight of the boats and sledges, and the latter having nearly been
+lost through the ice. Some of the men went completely through, and one
+of them was only held up by his drag-belt being attached to a sledge
+which happened to be on firmer ice. Fortunately the bread had, by way of
+security, been kept in the boats, or this additional weight would
+undoubtedly have sunk the sledges, and probably some of the men with
+them. As it was, we happily escaped, though we hardly knew how, with a
+good deal of wetting; and, cautiously approaching the boats, drew them
+to a stronger part of the ice, after which we continued our journey till
+half past six A.M., when we halted to rest, having travelled about seven
+miles N.N.W., our longitude by chronometers being 19° 52' east, and the
+latitude 82° 39' 10", being only two miles and a quarter to the
+northward of the preceding day's observation, or four miles and a half
+to the southward of our reckoning.
+
+Our sportsmen had the good fortune to kill another seal to-day, rather
+larger than the first, which again proved a most welcome addition to our
+provisions and fuel. Indeed, after this supply of the latter, we were
+enabled to allow ourselves every night a pint of warm water for supper,
+each man making his own soup from such a portion of his bread and
+pemmican as he could save from dinner. Setting out again at seven in the
+evening, we were not sorry to find the weather quite calm, which
+sailors account "half a fair wind;" for it was now evident that nothing
+but a southerly breeze could enable us to make any tolerable progress,
+or to regain what we had lately lost.
+
+Our travelling to-night was the very best we had during this excursion;
+for though we had to launch and haul up the boats frequently, an
+operation which, under the most favourable circumstances, necessarily
+occupies much time, yet the floes being large and tolerably level, and
+some good lanes of water occurring, we made, according to the most
+moderate calculation, between ten and eleven miles in a N.N.E.
+direction, and traversed a distance of about seventeen. We halted at a
+quarter past eight A.M. after more than twelve hours' actual travelling,
+by which the people were extremely fatigued; but, while our work seemed
+to be repaid by anything like progress, the men laboured with great
+cheerfulness to the utmost of their strength. The ice over which we had
+travelled was by far the largest and heaviest we met with during our
+whole journey; this, indeed, was the only occasion on which we saw
+anything answering in the slightest degree to the descriptions given of
+the main ice. The largest floe was from two and a half to three miles
+square, and in some places the thickness of the ice was from 15 to 20
+feet. However, it was a satisfaction to observe that the ice had
+certainly improved; and we now ventured to hope that, for the short time
+that we could still pursue our outward journey, our progress would be
+more commensurate with our exertions than it had hitherto proved. In
+proportion, then, to the hopes we had begun to entertain, was our
+disappointment in finding, at noon, that we were in latitude 82° 43' 5",
+or not quite four miles to the northward of yesterday's observation,
+instead of the ten or eleven which we had travelled! We halted at seven
+A.M. on the 23d, after a laborious day's work, and, I must confess, a
+disheartening one to those who knew to how little effect we were
+struggling; which, however, the men did not, though they often
+laughingly remarked that "we were a long time getting to this 83°!"
+Being anxious to make up, in some measure, for the drift which the
+present northerly wind was in all probability occasioning, we rose
+earlier than usual, and set off at half past four in the evening. At
+half past five P.M. we saw a very beautiful natural phenomenon. A broad
+white fog-bow first appeared opposite the sun, as was very commonly the
+case; presently it became strongly tinged with, the prismatic colours,
+and soon afterward no less than five other complete arches were formed
+within the main bow, the interior ones being gradually narrower than
+those without, but the whole of them beautifully coloured. The larger
+bow, and the one next within it, had the red on the outer or upper part
+of the circle, the others on the inner side.
+
+We halted at a quarter past three on the morning of the 24th, having
+made four miles and a half N.N.E., over a road of about seven and a
+half, most of which we traversed, as usual, three times. We moved again
+at four P.M. over a difficult road, composed of small and rugged ice. So
+small was the ice now around us, that we were obliged to halt for the
+night at two A.M. on the 25th, being upon the only piece in sight, in
+any direction, on which we could venture to trust the boats while we
+rested. Such was the ice in the latitude of 82-3/4°.
+
+The wind had now got round to the W.N.W., with raw, foggy weather, and
+continued to blow fresh all day. Snow came on soon after our halting,
+and about two inches had fallen when we moved again at half past four
+P.M. We continued our journey in this inclement weather for three hours,
+hauling from piece to piece, and not making more than three quarters of
+a mile progress, till our clothes and bread-bags had become very wet,
+and the snow fell so thick that we could no longer see our way. It was
+therefore necessary to halt, which we did at half past seven, putting
+the awnings over the boats, changing our wet clothes, and giving the men
+employment for the mere sake of occupying their minds. The weather
+improving towards noon on the 26th, we obtained the meridian altitude of
+the sun, by which we found ourselves in latitude 82° 40' 23"; so that,
+since our last observation (at midnight on the 22d), we had lost by
+drift no less than thirteen miles and a half; for we were now more than
+three miles to the _southward_ of that observation, though we had
+certainly travelled between ten and eleven due north in this interval!
+Again, we were but one mile to the north of our place at noon on the
+21st, though we had estimated our distance made good at twenty-three
+miles. Thus it appeared that for the last five days we had been
+struggling against a southerly drift exceeding four miles per day.
+
+It had, for some time past, been too evident that the nature of the ice
+with which we had to contend was such, and its drift to the southward,
+especially with a northerly wind, so great, as to put beyond our reach
+anything but a very moderate share of success in travelling to the
+northward. Still, however, we had been anxious to reach the highest
+latitude which our means would allow, and with this view, although our
+whole object had long become unattainable, had pushed on to the
+northward for thirty-five days, or until half our resources were
+expended, and the middle of our season arrived. For the last few days
+the eighty-third parallel was the limit to which we had ventured to
+extend our hopes; but even this expectation had become considerably
+weakened since the setting in of the last northerly wind, which
+continued to drive us to the southward, during the necessary hours of
+rest, nearly as much as we could gain by eleven or twelve hours of daily
+labour. Had our success been at all proportionate to our exertions, it
+was my full intention to proceed a few days beyond the middle of the
+period for which we were provided, trusting to the resources we expected
+to find at Table Island. But I could not but consider it as incurring
+useless fatigue to the officers and men, and unnecessary wear and tear
+for the boats, to persevere any longer in the attempt. I determined,
+therefore, on giving the people one entire day's rest, which they very
+much needed, and time to wash and mend their clothes, while the officers
+were occupied in making all the observations which might be interesting
+in this latitude; and then to set out on our return on the following
+day. Having communicated my intentions to the people, who were all much
+disappointed at finding how little their labours had effected, we set
+about our respective occupations, and were much favoured by a remarkably
+fine day.
+
+The highest latitude we reached was probably at seven A.M. on the 23d,
+when, after the midnight observation, we travelled, by our account,
+something more than a mile and a half, which would carry us a little
+beyond 82° 45'. Some observations for the magnetic intensity were
+obtained at this station. We here found no bottom with five hundred
+fathoms of line. At the extreme point of our journey, our distance from
+the Hecla was only 172 miles in a S. 8° W. direction. To accomplish this
+distance, we had traversed, by our reckoning, 292 miles, of which about
+100 were performed by water, previous to our entering the ice. As we
+travelled by far the greater part of our distance on the ice three, and
+not unfrequently five, times over, we may safely multiply the length of
+the road by two and a half; so that our whole distance, on a very
+moderate calculation, amounted to 580 geographical or 668 statute miles,
+being nearly sufficient to have reached the Pole in a direct line.
+
+Our day of rest (27th of July) proved one of the warmest and most
+pleasant to the feelings we had yet had upon the ice, though the
+thermometer was only from 31° to 36° in the shade, and 37° in the sun,
+with occasional fog; but to persons in the open air, calm and tolerably
+dry weather affords absolute enjoyment, especially by contrast with what
+we had lately experienced. Our ensigns and pendants were displayed
+during the day; and, sincerely as we regretted not having been able to
+hoist the British flag in the highest latitude to which we had aspired,
+we shall perhaps be excused in having felt some little pride in being
+the bearers of it to a parallel considerably beyond that mentioned in
+any other well-authenticated record.
+
+At 4.30 P.M. on the 27th, we set out on our return to the southward, and
+I can safely say that, dreary and cheerless as were the scenes we were
+about to leave, we never turned homeward with so little satisfaction as
+on this occasion. To afford a chance of determining the general set of
+the current from this latitude, we left upon a hummock of ice a paper,
+sewn up in a water-proof canvass bag, and then enclosed in a water-tight
+tin canister, giving an account of the place where it was deposited, and
+requesting any person who should find it to send it to the secretary of
+the admiralty. Nothing worthy of particular notice occurred on this and
+the following day, on each of which we travelled eleven hours; finding
+the water somewhat more open and the floes less rugged than usual. Two
+of these were from two to three miles in length, and in one instance the
+surface was sufficiently level to allow us to drag the boats for three
+quarters of a mile with the sledges _in tow_. Our latitude, observed at
+noon of the 30th, was 82° 20' 37", or twelve miles and a half to the
+southward of the preceding day's observation, though we had travelled
+only seven by our account; so that the drift of the ice had assisted us
+in gaining five miles and a half in that interval.
+
+Setting out to continue our journey at five P.M., we could discover
+nothing from a high hummock but the kind of bay-ice before noticed,
+except on the floe on which we had slept. The travelling was very
+laborious, but we were obliged to go on till we could get to a secure
+floe for resting upon, which we could not effect till half past four on
+the 31st, when, in eleven hours and a half, we had not made more than
+two miles and a quarter of southing. However, we had the satisfaction,
+which was denied us on our outward journey, of feeling confident that we
+should keep all that we gained, and probably make a good deal more;
+which, indeed, proved to be the case, for at noon we found our latitude,
+by observation, to be 82° 14' 25", or four miles to the southward of the
+reckoning.
+
+We halted at five A.M. on the 1st of August, the officers and men being
+quite knocked up, and having made by our account only two miles of
+southing over a road not less than five in length. As we came along we
+had seen some recent bear-tracks, and soon after discovered Bruin
+himself. Halting the boats and concealing the people behind them, we
+drew him almost within gun-shot; but, after making a great many
+traverses behind some hummocks, and even mounting one of them to examine
+us more narrowly, he set off and escaped--I must say, to our grievous
+disappointment; for we had already, by anticipation, consigned a
+tolerable portion of his flesh to our cooking kettle, over a fire of his
+own blubber.
+
+In the course of our journey, on the 2d of August, we met with a
+quantity of snow, tinged, to the depth of several inches, with some red
+colouring matter, of which a portion was preserved in a bottle for
+future examination. This circumstance recalled to our recollection our
+having frequently before, in the course of this journey, remarked that
+the loaded sledges, in passing over hard snow, left upon it a light,
+rose-coloured tint, which, at the time, we attributed to the colouring
+matter being pressed out of the birch of which they were made. Today,
+however, we observed that the runners of the, boats, and even our own
+footsteps, exhibited the same appearance; and, on watching it more
+narrowly afterward, we found the same effect to be produced, in a
+greater or less degree, by heavy pressure, on almost all the ice over
+which we passed, though a magnifying glass could detect nothing to give
+it this tinge. Halting at seven A.M. on the 3d, after launching and
+hauling up the boats a great number of times, we had not only the
+comfort of drying all our wet clothes, but were even able to wash many
+of our woollen things, which dried in a few hours. The latitude observed
+at noon was 82° 1' 48", or twelve miles and a half, to the southward of
+our place on the 31st, which was about three more than our log gave,
+though there had been southing in the wind during the whole interval.
+
+We proceeded on our journey southward at eight P.M., and were again
+favoured with a clear and beautiful night, though the travelling was as
+slow and laborious as ever, there being scarcely a tolerable floe lying
+in our road. The sun now became so much lower at night, that we were
+seldom annoyed by the glare from the snow. It was also a very
+comfortable change to those who had to look out for the road, to have
+the sun behind us instead of facing it, as on our outward journey. We
+stopped to rest at a quarter past six A.M. on the 4th, after
+accomplishing three miles in a south direction, over a troublesome road
+of nearly twice that length. It was almost calm, and to our feelings
+oppressively warm during the day, the thermometer within the boats
+rising as high as 66°, which put our fur dresses nearly "out of
+commission," though the mercury exposed to the sun outside did not rise
+above 39°. Pursuing our journey at eight P.M., we paid, as usual, for
+this comfort by the extreme softness of the snow. The upper crust would
+sometimes support a man's weight for a short time, and then suddenly let
+him down two or three feet, so that we could never make sure of our
+footing for two steps together. Several of the men were also suffering
+much at this time from chilblains, which, from the constant wet and
+cold, as well as the irritation in walking, became serious sores,
+keeping them quite lame. With many of our people, also, the epidermis or
+scarfskin peeled off in large flakes, not merely in the face and hands,
+which were exposed to the action of the sun and the weather, but in
+every other part of the body; this, however, was attended with no pain,
+nor with much inconvenience.
+
+A fat bear crossed over a lane of water to visit us, and, approaching
+the boats within twenty yards, was killed by Lieutenant Ross. The scene
+which followed was laughable, even to us who participated in it. Before
+the animal had done biting the snow, one of the men was alongside of him
+with an open knife; and, being asked what he was about to do, replied
+that he was about cut out his heart and liver to put into the pot, which
+happened to be then boiling for our supper. In short, before the bear
+had been dead an hour, all hands of us were employed, to our great
+satisfaction, in discussing the merits, not only of the said heart and
+liver, but a pound per man of the flesh; besides which, some or other of
+the men were constantly frying steaks during the whole day, over a large
+fire made of the blubber. The consequence of all this, and other similar
+indulgences, necessarily was, that some of them complained, for several
+days after, of the pains usually arising from indigestion; though they
+all, amusingly enough, attributed this effect to the quality, and not
+the quantity of meat they had eaten. However, notwithstanding these
+excesses at first, we were really thankful for this additional supply of
+meat; for we had observed for some time past, that the men were
+evidently not so strong as before, and would be the better for more
+sustenance.
+
+The rain continued so hard at our usual time of setting out, that I was
+obliged to delay doing so till six P.M. on the 8th, when it ceased a
+little, after falling hard for twenty-four hours, and less violently for
+twelve more. When we first launched the boats, our prospect of making
+progress seemed no better than usual, but we found one small hole of
+water leading into another in so extraordinary a manner, that, though
+the space in which we were rowing seemed always to be coming to an end,
+we continued to creep through narrow passages, and, when we halted to
+dine at half an hour before midnight, had only hauled the boats up once,
+and had made, though by a winding channel, four or five miles of
+southing. This was so unusual a circumstance, that we could not help
+entertaining some hope of our being at no great distance from the open
+sea, which seemed the more probable from our having seen seven or eight
+narwhals, and not less than two hundred rotges, a flock of these little
+birds occurring in every hole of water. At noon on the 10th of August,
+we observed in latitude 81° 40' 13", which was only four miles to the
+northward of our reckoning from the last observation, although there had
+been almost constantly southing in the wind ever since, and it had been
+blowing strong from that quarter for the last thirty hours. This
+circumstance afforded a last and striking proof of the general tendency
+of the ice to drift southward, about the meridians on which we had been
+travelling. Another bear came towards the boats in the course of the
+day, and was killed. We were now so abundantly supplied with meat, that
+the men would again have eaten immoderately had we not interposed the
+necessary authority to prevent them. As it was, our encampment became so
+like an Esquimaux establishment, that we were obliged to shift our place
+upon the floe in the course of the day, for the sake of cleanliness and
+comfort.
+
+The wind falling towards midnight, we launched the boats at half past
+one A.M. on the 11th, paddling alternately in large spaces of clear
+water and among streams of loose "sailing ice." We soon afterward
+observed such indications of an open sea as could not be mistaken, much
+of the ice being "washed" as by a heavy sea, with small rounded
+fragments thrown on the surface, and a good deal of "dirty ice"
+occurring. After passing through a good deal of loose ice, it became
+gradually more and more open, till at length, at a quarter before seven
+A.M., we heard the first sound of the swell under the hollow margins of
+the ice, and in a quarter of an hour had reached the open sea, which was
+dashing with heavy surges against the outer masses. We hauled the boats
+upon one of these, to eat our last meal upon the ice, and to complete
+the necessary supply of water for our little voyage to Table Island,
+from which we were now distant fifty miles, our latitude being 81° 34',
+and longitude 18-1/4° E. A light air springing up from the N.W., we
+again launched the boats, and at eight A.M. finally quitted the ice,
+after having taken up our abode upon it for forty-eight days.
+
+We had some fog during the night, so that we steered entirely by
+compass, according to our last observations by the chronometers, which
+proved so correct, that, at five A.M. on the 12th, on the clearing up of
+the haze, we made the island right ahead. At eleven A.M. we reached the
+island, or rather the rock to the northward of it, where our provisions
+had been deposited; and I cannot describe the comfort we experienced in
+once more feeling a dry and solid footing. We found that the bears had
+devoured all the bread (one hundred pounds), which occasioned a remark
+among the men, with reference to the quantity of these animals' flesh
+that we had eaten, that "Bruin was only square with us." We also found
+that Lieutenant Crozier had been here since we left the island, bringing
+some materials for repairing our boats, as well as various little
+luxuries to which we had lately been strangers, and depositing in a
+copper cylinder a letter from Lieutenant Foster, giving me a detailed
+account of the proceedings of the ship up to the 23d of July. By this I
+learned that the Hecla had been forced on shore on the 7th of July, by
+the breaking-up of the ice at the head of the bay, which came down upon
+her in one solid mass; but, by the unwearied and zealous exertions of
+the officers and men, she had again been hove off without incurring the
+slightest damage, and placed in perfect security. Among the supplies
+with which the anxious care of our friends on board had now furnished
+us, some lemon-juice and sugar were not the least acceptable; two or
+three of the men having for some days past suffered from oedematous
+swellings of the legs, and evinced other symptoms apparently scorbutic,
+but which soon improved after administering this valuable specific.
+
+Having got our stores into the boats, we rowed round Table Island to
+look for a place on which to rest, the men being much fatigued; but so
+rugged and inhospitable is this northern rock, that not a single spot
+could we find where the boats could possibly be hauled up, or lie afloat
+in security. I therefore determined to take advantage of the freshening
+of the N.E. wind, and to bear up for Walden Island, which we accordingly
+did at two P.M. We had scarcely made, sail when the weather became
+extremely inclement, with a fresh gale and very thick snow, which
+obscured Walden Island from our view. Steering by compass, however, we
+made a good landfall, the boats behaving well in a sea; and at seven
+P.M. landed in the smoothest place we could find under the lee of the
+island. Everything belonging to us was now completely drenched by the
+spray and snow; we had been fifty-six hours without rest, and
+forty-eight at work in the boats, so that, by the time they were
+unloaded, we had barely strength left to haul them up on the rock. We
+noticed, on this occasion, that the men had that wildness in their looks
+which usually accompanies excessive fatigue; and, though just as willing
+as ever to obey orders, they seemed at times not to comprehend them.
+However, by dint of great exertion, we managed to get the boats above
+the surf; after which, a hot supper, a blazing fire of driftwood, and a
+few hours' quiet rest, quite restored us.
+
+The next morning, the 13th, I despatched Lieutenant Ross, with a party
+of hands, to the N.E. part of the island, to launch the spare boat,
+which, according to my directions, Lieutenant Foster had sent for our
+use, and to bring round the stores deposited there in readiness for our
+setting off for Low Island. They found everything quite undisturbed;
+but, by the time they reached us, the wind had backed to the westward,
+and the weather become very wet, so that I determined to remain here
+till it improved.
+
+At ten A.M. on the 14th, the weather being fine, we launched our three
+boats and left Walden Island; but the wind backing more to the westward,
+we could only fetch into a bay on the opposite or southern shore, where
+we hauled the boats up on very rugged rocks, under cliffs about six
+hundred feet high, and of the same granite formation as Walden Island.
+
+The wind dying away on the morning of the 17th, we once more set out for
+the ship at nine A.M.; but having a second time nearly reached Shoal
+Point, were again met by a strong breeze as we opened Waygatz Strait,
+and were therefore obliged to land upon the low shore to the southward
+of Low Island.
+
+On the 18th of August the wind increased to a strong breeze from the
+S.W., with rain and sleet, which afterward changed to snow in some of
+the largest flakes I ever saw, completely changing the whole aspect of
+the land from summer to winter in a few hours. On the following morning
+we prepared to move at an early hour, but the wind backed more to the
+westward, and soon after increased to a gale, raising so much surf on
+the beach as to oblige us to haul the boats higher up. On the 20th,
+tired as we were of this tedious confinement, and anxious to reach the
+ship, the wind and sea were still too high to allow us to move, and it
+was not till half past seven A.M. on the following day that we could
+venture to launch the boats. Having now, by means of the driftwood,
+converted our paddles into oars, and being occasionally favoured by a
+light breeze, with a perfectly open sea, we made tolerable progress, and
+at half past four P.M. on the 21st of August, when within three or four
+miles of Hecla Cove, had the gratification of seeing a boat under sail
+coming out to meet us. Mr. Weir soon joined us in one of the cutters;
+and, after hearing good accounts of the safety of the ship, and of the
+welfare of all on board, together with a variety of details, to us of no
+small interest, we arrived on board at seven P.M., after an absence of
+sixty-one days, being received with that warm and cordial welcome which
+can alone be felt, and not described.
+
+I cannot conclude the account of our proceedings without endeavouring
+to do justice to the cheerful alacrity and unwearied zeal displayed by
+my companions, both officers and men, in the course of this excursion;
+and if steady perseverance and active exertion on their parts could have
+accomplished our object, success would undoubtedly have crowned our
+labours. I must also mention, to the credit of the officers of Woolwich
+dock-yard, who took so much pains in the construction of our boats,
+that, notwithstanding the constant and severe trial to which their
+strength had been put--and a more severe trial could not well be
+devised--not a timber was sprung, a plank split, or the smallest injury
+sustained by them; they were, indeed, as tight and as fit for service
+when we reached the ship as when they were first received on board, and
+in every respect answered the intended purpose admirably.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+On my arrival on board, I learned from Lieutenant Crozier that
+Lieutenant Foster, finding that no farther disturbance from ice was to
+be apprehended, and after making an accurate plan of the bay and its
+neighbourhood, had proceeded on the survey of Waygatz Strait, and
+proposed returning by the 26th of August, the day to which I had limited
+his absence. I found the ship quite ready for sea, with the exception of
+getting on board the launch, with the stores deposited by my direction
+on the beach. Lieutenant Foster's report informed me that, after the
+ship had been hauled off the ground, they had again suffered
+considerable disturbance for several days, in consequence of some heavy
+masses of ice driving into the bay, which dragged the anchors, and
+again threatened them with a similar accident. However, after the middle
+of July, no ice had entered the bay, and, what is still more remarkable,
+not a piece had been seen in the offing for some weeks past, even after
+hard northerly and westerly gales.
+
+On the 22d of August, as soon as our people had enjoyed a good night's
+rest, we commenced bringing the stores on board from the beach, throwing
+out such a quantity of the stone ballast as was necessary for trimming
+the ship; after which the cables and hawsers were cast off from the
+shore, and the ship hauled off to single anchor. Lieutenant Foster
+returned on board on the 24th, having surveyed the greater part of the
+shores of the strait, as far to the southward as 79° 33".
+
+Lieutenant Foster saw some seahorses (narwhals) and white whales in the
+course of this excursion, but no black whales; nor did we, in the whole
+course of the voyage, see any of these, except on the ground already
+frequented by our whalers on the western coast of Spitzbergen. It is
+remarkable, however, that the "crown-bones," and other parts of the
+skeleton of whales, are found in most parts where we landed on this
+coast. The shores of the strait, like all the rest in Spitzbergen, are
+lined with immense quantities of driftwood, wherever the nature of the
+coast will allow it to land.
+
+The animals met with here during the Hecla's stay were principally
+reindeer, bears, foxes, kittiwakes, glaucus and ivory gulls, tern,
+eider-ducks, and a few grouse. Looms and rotges were numerous in the
+offing. Seventy reindeer were killed, chiefly very small, and, until
+the middle of August, not in good condition. They were usually met with
+in herds of from six or eight to twenty, and were most abundant on the
+west and north sides of the bay. Three bears were killed, one of which
+was somewhat above the ordinary dimensions, measuring eight feet four
+inches from the snout to the insertion of the tail. The vegetation was
+tolerably abundant, especially on the western side of the bay, where the
+soil is good; a considerable collection of plants, as well as minerals,
+was made by Mr. Halse, and of birds by Mr. M'Cormick.
+
+The neighbourhood of this bay, like most of the northern shores of
+Spitzbergen, appears to have been much visited by the Dutch at a very
+early period; of which circumstance records are furnished on almost
+every spot where we landed, by the numerous graves which we met with.
+There are thirty of these on a point of land on the north side of the
+bay.[023] The bodies are usually deposited in an oblong wooden coffin,
+which, on account of the difficulty of digging the ground, is not
+buried, but merely covered by large stones; and a board is generally
+placed near the head, having, either cut or painted upon it, the name of
+the deceased, with those of his ship and commander, and the month and
+year of his burial. Several of these were fifty or sixty years old; one
+bore the date of 1738; and another, which I found on the beach to the
+eastward of Hecla Cove, that of 1690; the inscription distinctly
+appearing in prominent relief, occasioned by the preservation of the
+wood by the paint, while the unpainted part had decayed around it.
+
+The officers who remained on board the Hecla during the summer described
+the weather as the most beautiful, and the climate altogether the most
+agreeable, they had ever experienced in the Polar Regions. Indeed, the
+Meteorological Journal shows a temperature, both of the air and of the
+sea water, to which we had before been altogether strangers within the
+Arctic Circle, and which goes far towards showing that the climate of
+Spitzbergen is a remarkably temperate one for its latitude.[024] It
+must, however, be observed, that this remark is principally applicable
+to the weather experienced _near the land_, that at sea being rendered
+of a totally different character by the almost continual presence of
+fogs; so that some of our most gloomy days upon the ice were among the
+finest in Hecla Cove, where, however, a good deal of rain fell in the
+course of the summer.
+
+The Hecla was ready for sea on the 25th of August; but the wind blowing
+fresh from the northward and westward prevented our moving till the
+evening of the 28th, when, the weather improving, we got under way from
+Hecla Cove, and, being favoured with a light air from the S.E., stood
+along the coast to the westward. On the evening of the 29th, when off
+Red Beach, we got on board our boat and other stores which had been
+left there, finding them undisturbed and in good order. The weather was
+beautifully fine, and the sun (to us for the first time for about four
+months) just dipped his lower limb into the sea at midnight, and then
+rose again. It was really wonderful to see that, upon this whole
+northern coast of Spitzbergen, where in May and June not a "hole" of
+clear water could be found, it would now have been equally difficult to
+discover a single mass of ice in any direction. This absence of ice now
+enabled us to see Moffen Island, which is so low and flat that it was
+before entirely hidden from our view by the hummocks. On rounding
+Hakluyt's Headland on the 30th, we came at once into a long swell, such
+as occurs only in places exposed to the whole range of the ocean, and,
+except a small or loose stream or two, we after this saw no more ice of
+any kind. On the 31st we were off Prince Charles's Foreland, the middle
+part of which, about Cape Sietoe, appeared to be much the highest land
+we had seen in Spitzbergen; rising probably to an elevation of above
+four thousand feet.
+
+We had favourable winds to carry us clear of Spitzbergen; but after the
+3d of September, and between the parallels of 70° and 60°, were detained
+by continual southerly and southwesterly breezes for a fortnight. On the
+evening of the 17th we made Shetland, and on the following day, being
+close off Balta Sound, and the wind blowing strong from the S.W., I
+anchored in the Voe at two P.M., to wait a more favourable breeze. We
+were here received by all that genuine hospitality for which the
+inhabitants of this northern part of the British dominions are so
+justly distinguished, and we gladly availed ourselves of the supplies
+with which their kindness furnished us.
+
+Early on the morning of the 19th of September, the wind suddenly shifted
+to the N.N.W., and almost immediately blew so strong a gale that we could
+not safely cast the ship until the evening, when we got under way and
+proceeded to the southward; but had not proceeded farther than Fair
+Island, when, after a few hours' calm, we were once more met by a
+southerly wind. Against this we continued to beat till the morning of
+the 23d, when, finding that we made but little progress, and that there
+was no appearance of an alteration of wind, I determined to put into
+Long Hope, in the Orkney Islands, to await a change in our favour, and
+accordingly ran in and anchored there as soon as the tide would permit.
+
+We found lying here his majesty's revenue cutter the Chichester; and Mr.
+Stuart, her commander, who was bound direct to Inverness, came on board
+as soon as we had anchored, to offer his services in any manner which
+might be useful. The wind died away in the course of the night of the
+24th, and was succeeded on the following morning by a light air from the
+northward, when we immediately got under way; but had not entered the
+Pentland Firth, when it again fell calm and then backed to the
+southward, rendering it impossible to make any progress in that
+direction with a dull-sailing ship. I therefore determined on returning
+with the Hecla to the anchorage, and then taking advantage of Mr.
+Stuart's offer; and accordingly left the ship at eight A.M., accompanied
+by Mr. Beverly, to proceed to Inverness in the Chichester, and from
+thence by land to London, in order to lay before his royal highness the
+lord high admiral, without farther delay, an account of our proceedings.
+By the zealous exertions of Mr. Stuart, for which I feel greatly obliged
+to that gentleman, we arrived off Fort George the following morning,
+and, landing at Inverness at noon, immediately set off for London, and
+arrived at the Admiralty on the morning of the 29th of September.
+
+Owing to the continuance of southerly winds, the Hecla did not arrive in
+the river Thames until the 6th of October, when I was sorry, though not
+surprised, to learn the death of Mr. George Crawford, the Greenland
+master, who departed this life on the 29th of September, sincerely
+lamented by all who knew him, as a zealous, active, and enterprising
+seaman, and an amiable and deserving man. Mr. Crawford had accompanied
+us in five successive voyages to the Polar Seas, and I truly regret the
+occasion which demands from me this public testimony of the value of his
+services and the excellence of his character.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+Having finished my Narrative of this Attempt to reach the North Pole, I
+may perhaps be permitted, in conclusion, to offer such remarks as have
+lately occurred to me on the nature and practicability of the
+enterprise.
+
+That the object is of still more difficult attainment than was before
+supposed, even by those persons who were the best qualified to judge of
+it, will, I believe, appear evident from a perusal of the foregoing
+pages; nor can I, after much consideration and some experience of the
+various difficulties which belong to it, recommend any material
+improvement in the plan lately adopted. Among the various schemes
+suggested for this purpose, it has been proposed to set out from
+Spitzbergen, and to make a rapid journey to the northward with sledges
+or sledge-boats, drawn wholly by dogs or reindeer; but, however feasible
+this plan may at first sight appear, I cannot say that our late
+experience of the nature of the ice which they would probably have to
+encounter has been at all favourable to it. It would, of course, be a
+matter of extreme imprudence to set out on this enterprise without the
+means of crossing, not merely narrow pools and "lanes," but more
+extensive spaces of open water, such as we met with between the margin
+of the ice and the Spitzbergen shores; and I do not conceive that any
+boat sufficiently large to be efficient and safe for this purpose could
+possibly be managed upon the ice, were the power employed to give it
+motion dependant on dogs or reindeer. On the contrary, it was a frequent
+subject of remark among the officers, that reason was a qualification
+scarcely less indispensable than strength and activity in travelling
+over such a road; daily instances occurring of our having to pass over
+difficult places, which no other animal than man could have been easily
+prevailed upon to attempt. Indeed, the constant necessity of launching
+and hauling up the boats (which operations we had frequently to perform
+eight or ten, and, on one occasion, seventeen times in the same day)
+would alone render it inexpedient, in my opinion, to depend chiefly
+upon animals; for it would certainly require more time and labour to get
+them into and out of the boats, than their services in the intervals, or
+their flesh ultimately used as food, would be worth; especially when it
+is considered how large a weight of provender must be carried for their
+own subsistence.[025]
+
+In case of employing reindeer, which, from their strength, docility, and
+hardy habits, appear the best suited to this kind of travelling, there
+would be an evident advantage in setting out much earlier in the year
+than we did; perhaps about the end of April, when the ice is less broken
+up, and the snow much harder upon its surface than at a more advanced
+part of the season. But this, it must be recollected, would involve the
+necessity of passing the previous winter on the northern coast of
+Spitzbergen, which, even under favourable circumstances, would probably
+tend to weaken in some degree the energies of the men; while, on the
+other hand, it would be next to impossible to procure there a supply of
+provender for a number of tame reindeer, sufficient even to keep them
+alive, much less in tolerable condition, during a whole winter. In
+addition to this, it may be observed, that any party setting out earlier
+must be provided with a much greater weight of warm clothing in order to
+guard against the severity of cold, and also with an increased
+proportion of fuel for procuring water by the melting of snow, there
+being no fresh water upon the ice in these latitudes before the month of
+June.
+
+In the kind of provisions proper to be employed in such enterprises--a
+very important consideration, where almost the whole difficulty may be
+said to resolve itself into a question of weight--I am not aware that
+any improvement could be made upon that with which we were furnished;
+for I know of none which appears to contain so much nutriment in so
+small a weight and compass. It may be useful, however, to remark, as the
+result of absolute experience, that our daily allowance of
+provisions,[026] although previously tried for some days on board the
+ship, and then considered to be enough, proved by no means sufficient to
+support the strength of men living constantly in the open air, exposed
+to wet and cold for at least twelve hours a day, seldom enjoying the
+luxury of a warm meal, and having to perform the kind of labour to which
+our people were subject. I have before remarked, that, previously to our
+return to the ship, our strength was considerably impaired; and, indeed,
+there is reason to believe that, very soon after entering upon the ice,
+the physical energies of the men were gradually diminishing, although,
+for the first few weeks, they did not appear to labour under any
+specific complaint. This diminution of strength, which we considered to
+be principally owing to the want of sufficient sustenance, became
+apparent, even after a fortnight, in the lifting of the bread-bags and
+other heavy weights; and I have no doubt that, in spite of every care on
+the part of the officers, as well as Mr. Beverly's skilful and humane
+attention to their ailments, some of the men, who had begun to fail
+before we quitted the ice, would, in a week or two longer, have suffered
+very severely, and become a serious encumbrance, instead of an
+assistance, to our party. As far as we were able to judge, without
+farther trial, Mr. Beverly and myself were of opinion that, in order to
+maintain the strength of men thus employed for several weeks together,
+an addition would be requisite of at least one third more to the
+provisions which we daily issued. I need scarcely remark how much this
+would increase the difficulty of equipping such an expedition.
+
+I cannot dismiss the subject of this enterprise without attempting to
+explain, as far as I am able, how it may have happened that the ice over
+which we passed was found to answer so little to the description of that
+observed by the respectable authorities quoted in a former part of this
+volume.[027] It frequently occurred to us, in the course of our daily
+journeys, that this may, in some degree, have arisen from our
+navigators' having generally viewed the ice from a considerable height.
+The only clear and commanding view on board a ship is that from the
+crow's-nest; and Phipps's most important remarks concerning the nature
+of the ice to the north of Spitzbergen were made from a station several
+hundred feet above the sea; and, as it is well known how much the most
+experienced eye may thus be deceived, it is possible enough that the
+irregularities which cost us so much time and labour may, when viewed in
+this manner, have entirely escaped notice, and the whole surface have
+appeared one smooth and level plain.
+
+It is, moreover, possible, that the broken state in which we
+unexpectedly found the ice may have arisen, at least in part, from an
+unusually wet season, preceded, perhaps, by a winter of less than
+ordinary severity. Of the latter we have no means of judging, there
+being no record, that I am aware of, of the temperature of that or any
+other winter passed in the higher latitudes; but, on comparing our
+Meteorological Register with some others kept during the corresponding
+season and about the same latitude,[028] it does appear that, though no
+material difference is observable in the mean temperature of the
+atmosphere, the quantity of rain which we experienced is considerably
+greater than usual; and it is well known how very rapidly ice is
+dissolved by a fall of rain. At all events, from whatever cause it may
+have arisen, it is certain that, about the meridian on which we
+proceeded northward in the boats, the sea was in a totally different
+state from what Phipps experienced, as may be seen from comparing our
+accounts--his ship being closely beset, near the Seven Islands, for
+several days about the beginning of August; whereas the Hecla, in the
+beginning of June, sailed about in the same neighbourhood without
+obstruction, and, before the close of July, not a piece of ice could be
+seen from Little Table Island.
+
+I may add, in conclusion, that, before the middle of August, when we
+left the ice in our boats, a ship might have sailed to the latitude, of
+82° almost without touching a piece of ice; and it was the general
+opinion among us, that, by the end of that month, it would probably have
+been no very difficult matter to reach the parallel of 83°, about the
+meridian of the Seven Islands.
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+
+
+
+FOOTNOTES
+
+[001] This name being applied by the Esquimaux to several other portions
+of land, all of which are insular, or nearly so, it is probable that the
+word simply signifies an island.
+
+[002] The expression "fixed ice" appearing better suited to our present
+obstacle than that of "land ice," I shall in future adopt it in speaking
+of this barrier.
+
+[003] Lest it should be thought that this account is exaggerated, I may
+here state, that, as a matter of curiosity, we one day tried how much a
+lad, scarcely full grown, would, if freely supplied, consume in this
+way. The under-mentioned articles were weighed before being given to
+him; he was twenty hours in getting through them, and certainly did not
+consider the quantity extraordinary.
+
+                                      lb.   oz.
+  Seahorse flesh, hard frozen          4     4
+  Ditto,     boiled                    4     4
+  Bread and bread-dust                 1    12
+                                      ________
+
+        Total of solids               10     4
+  The Fluids were in fair proportion, viz.:
+  Rich gravy-soup                      1-1/4 pint.
+  Raw spirits                          3 wine glasses.
+  Strong grog.                         1 tumbler.
+  Water                                1 gallon 1 pint.
+
+[004] We have since heard that these ships were the Dexterity, of Leith,
+and the Aurora, of Hull, which were wrecked on the 28th of August, 1821,
+about the latitude of 72°.
+
+[005] A fine lad, of about sixteen, being one day out in a boat with one
+of our gentlemen at Arlagnuk, reminded him, with a serious face, that he
+had laid a gun down _full-cocked_. There happened to be no charge in the
+gun at the time; but this was a proof of the attention the boy had paid
+to the art of using firearms, as well as an instance of considerate and
+manly caution, scarcely to have been expected in an individual of that
+age.
+
+[006] Most Greenland sailors use these; but many persons, both officers
+and men, have an absurd prejudice against what they call "wearing
+stays."
+
+[007] It is remarkable that this poor man had, twice before, within the
+space of nine months, been very near death; for, besides the accident
+already mentioned, of falling down the hill when escaping from the bear,
+he was also in imminent danger of dying of dropsy during the winter.
+
+[008] This birch, they said, had been procured from the southward by way
+of _Noowook_. We never met with any of the same kind in those parts of
+the country which we visited, except that observed by Captain Lyon in
+the deserted habitations of the Esquimaux near Five Hawser Bay.
+
+[009] Toolooak, who was a frequent visitor at the young gentlemen's
+mess-table on board the Fury, once evinced this taste, and no small
+cunning at the same time, by asking alternately for a little more bread
+and a little more butter, till he had made a hearty meal.
+
+[010] Cervical, 7; dorsal, 13; lumbar, 7; sacral, 3; caudal, 19.
+
+[011] Cartwright's _Labrador_, iii., 232.
+
+[012] Ledyard. _Proceedings of the African Association_, vol i, p. 30.
+
+[013] The first travelling boat, which was built by way of experiment,
+was planked differently from these two; the planks, which were of
+half-inch oak, being ingeniously "tongued" together with copper, in
+order to save the necessity of caulking in case of the wood shrinking.
+This was the boat subsequently landed on Red Beach.
+
+[014] This article of our equipment contains a large proportion of
+nutriment in a small weight and compass, and is therefore invaluable on
+such occasions. The process, which requires great attention, consists in
+drying large thin slices of the lean of the meat over the smoke of
+wood-fires, then pounding it, and lastly mixing it with about an equal
+weight of its own fat. In this state it is quite ready for use, without
+farther cooking.
+
+[015] The merits of this simple but valuable invention being now too
+well known to require any detailed account of the experiments, it is
+only necessary for me to remark, in this place, that the compass, having
+the plate attached to it, gave, under all circumstances, the correct
+magnetic bearing.
+
+[016] It is remarkable, that the Esquimaux word for boot is very like
+this--Kameega.
+
+[017] I find it to be the universal opinion among the most experienced
+of our whalers, that there is much less ice met with, of late years, in
+getting to the northward, in these latitudes, than formerly was the
+case. Mr. Scoresby, to whose very valuable local information, contained
+in his "Account of the Arctic Regions," I have been greatly indebted on
+this occasion, mentions the circumstance as a generally received fact.
+
+[018] It was probably some such gale as this which has given to
+Hakluyt's Headland, in an old Dutch chart, the appellation of "Duyvel's
+Hoek."
+
+[019] I have been thus particular in noticing the Hecla's position,
+because our observations would appear to be, with one exception, the
+most northern on record at that time. The Commissioners of Longitude, in
+their memorial to the king in council, in the year 1821, consider that
+the "progress of discovery has not arrived northward, according to any
+well-authenticated accounts, so far as eighty-one degrees of north
+latitude." Mr. Scoresby states his having observed in lat. 81° 12' 42".
+
+[020] Had we succeeded in reaching the higher latitudes, where the
+change of the sun's altitude during the twenty-four hours is still less
+perceptible, it would have been essentially necessary to possess the
+certain means of knowing this; since an error of twelve hours of time
+would have carried us, when we intended to return, on a meridian
+opposite to, or 180° from, the right one. To obviate the possibility of
+this, we had some chronometers constructed by Messrs. Parkinson and
+Frodsham, of which the hour-hand made only one revolution in the day,
+the twenty-four hours being marked round the dial-plate.
+
+[021] I may here mention, that, notwithstanding the heavy blows which
+the boats were constantly receiving, all our nautical and astronomical
+instruments were taken back to the ship without injury. This
+circumstance makes it, perhaps, worth while to explain, that they were
+lashed upon a wooden platform in the after locker of each boat,
+sufficiently small to be clear of the boat's sides, and playing on
+strong springs of whalebone, which entirely obviated the effects of the
+severe concussions to which they would otherwise have been subject.
+
+[022] We found the best preservative against this glare to be a pair of
+spectacles, having the glass of a bluish-green colour, and with
+side-screens to them.
+
+[023] Perhaps the name of this bay, from the Dutch word _Treuren_, "to
+lament, or be mournful," may have some reference to the graves found
+here.
+
+[024] Mr. Crowe, of Hammerfest, who lately passed a winter on the
+southwestern coast of Spitzbergen, in about latitude 78°, informed me
+that he had _rain at Christmas_; a phenomenon which would indeed have
+astonished us at any of our former wintering stations in a much lower
+latitude. Perhaps the circumstance of the reindeer wintering at
+Spitzbergen may also be considered a proof of a comparatively temperate
+climate.
+
+[025] See p. 254 of this volume. {line 6545 "The quantity of clean moss
+considered requisite for each deer per day is four pounds ..." -
+Transcriber}
+
+[026] See p. 280 of this volume. {line 7210 "Our allowance of provisions
+for each man per day was as follows:" - Transcriber}
+
+[027] See Introduction. {line 6343 "INTRODUCTION." - Transcriber}
+
+[028] Particularly that of Mr. Scoresby during the month of July, from
+1812 to 1818 inclusive, and Captain Franklin's for July and August,
+1818.
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14350 ***
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+<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Three Voyages for the Discovery of a Northwest Passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and Narrative of an Attempt to Reach the North Pole, Volume 2 (of 2), by Sir William Edward Parry</title>
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+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14350 ***</div>
+<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Three Voyages for the Discovery of a
+Northwest Passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and Narrative of an
+Attempt to Reach the North Pole, Volume 2 (of 2), by Sir William Edward
+Parry</h1>
+<table border=0 bgcolor="ccccff" cellpadding=10>
+  <tr>
+    <td width="27%" valign="top">
+      Transcriber's Note:
+    </td>
+    <td>
+          The character = preceding a vowel is used to indicate that the
+          vowel is to be pronounced long.<br>
+          The character ~ preceding a vowel is used to indicate that the
+          vowel is to be pronounced short.<br>
+          These characters do not occur otherwise.
+	</td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+<br>
+<br>
+<hr class="full" noshade>
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<br>
+
+<a name='THREE_VOYAGES'></a>
+<h2>THREE VOYAGES<br>
+ FOR THE<br>
+ DISCOVERY OF A NORTHWEST PASSAGE<br>
+ FROM THE<br>
+ ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC,<br>
+ AND NARRATIVE OF<br>
+ AN ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.</h2>
+<h3>BY</h3>
+<h3>SIR W. E. PARRY, CAPT. R.N.. F.R.S.</h3>
+
+<h3>IN TWO VOLUMES.<br>
+<br>
+</h3>
+<h4>VOL. II.</h4>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<br>
+
+<h6>New-York:<br>
+Harper &amp; Brothers, 82 Cliff-Street.</h6>
+<br>
+
+<h4>1844.</h4>
+<center><img alt="001 (160K)" src="images/001.jpg" width="100%"></center>
+<br>
+
+<h3>CONTENTS<br>
+ OF<br>
+ THE SECOND VOLUME.</h3>
+<br>
+ <a name='b001_2'></a><a href='#b001'></a>
+<h4>SECOND VOYAGE<br>
+CONTINUED.</h4>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p><a name="c001"></a><a href="#c001_2">CHAPTER X.</a></p>
+<p>Departure from Winter Island.&mdash;Meet with some Esquimaux
+travelling to the Northward.&mdash;Obstruction and Danger from
+the Ice and Tides.&mdash;Discovery of the Barrow River, and its
+Fall.&mdash;Favourable Passage to the Northward.&mdash;Arrival
+off the Strait of the Fury and Hecla.&mdash;Progress opposed by a
+fixed barrier of Ice.&mdash;Communicate with the Natives of
+Igloolik.&mdash;Unsuccessful Attempt to get between the Ice and
+the Land.&mdash;Land upon the Calthorpe Islands.&mdash;The Fury
+drifted by the Ice between two Islands.&mdash;Account of a
+Journey performed in Sledges up an Inlet to the Westward.</p>
+<br>
+<p><a name="c002"></a><a href="#c002_2">CHAPTER XI.</a></p>
+<p>A Whale killed.&mdash;Other Charts drawn by the
+Esquimaux.&mdash;Account of a Journey to the Narrows of the
+Strait.&mdash;Discovery of the Sea to the Westward.&mdash;Total
+Disruption of the Ice at the Eastern Entrance of the
+Strait.&mdash;Instance of local Attraction on the
+Compasses.&mdash;Sail through the Narrows, and again stopped by
+fixed Ice.&mdash;Account of several Land Journeys and Boat
+Excursions.&mdash;Observations on the Tides.&mdash;Continued
+Obstacles from fixed Ice.</p>
+<br>
+
+<p><a name="c003"></a><a href="#c003_2">CHAPTER XII.</a></p>
+<p>A Journey performed along the South Shore of Cockburn
+Island.&mdash;Confirmation of an Outlet to the Polar
+Sea.&mdash;Partial Disruption of the Old Ice, and formation of
+New.&mdash;Return through the Narrows to the
+Eastward.&mdash;Proceed to examine the Coast to the
+Northeastward.&mdash;Fury's Anchor broken.&mdash;Stand over to
+Igloolik to look for Winter-quarters.&mdash;Excursion to the Head
+of Quilliam Creek.&mdash;Ships forced to the Westward by Gales of
+Wind.&mdash;A Canal sawed through the Ice, and the Ships secured
+in their Winter Station.&mdash;Continued Visits of the Esquimaux,
+and Arrival of some of the Winter Island Tribe.&mdash;Proposed
+Plan of Operations in the ensuing Spring.</p>
+<br>
+<p><a name="c004"></a><a href="#c004_2">
+CHAPTER XIII.</a></p>
+<p>Preparations for the Winter.&mdash;Various Meteorological
+Phenomena to the close of the year 1822.&mdash;Sickness among the
+Esquimaux.&mdash;Meteorological Phenomena to the end of
+March.</p>
+<br>
+<p><a name="c005"></a><a href="#c005_2">
+CHAPTER XIV.</a></p>
+<p>Various Journeys to the Esquimaux Stations.&mdash;Preparations
+for the Hecla's Return to England.&mdash;Remarkable Halos,
+&amp;c.&mdash;Shooting Parties stationed at
+Arlagnuk.&mdash;Journeys to Quilliam Creek.&mdash;Arrival of
+Esquimaux from the Northward.&mdash;Account of a Journey to the
+Westward for the purpose of reaching the Polar Sea.&mdash;The
+Esquimaux report two Fishing-ships having been Wrecked.&mdash;A
+Journey performed to Cockburn Island.&mdash;Discovery of Murray
+Maxwell Inlet</p>
+<br>
+<p><a name="c006"></a><a href="#c006_2">
+CHAPTER XV.</a></p>
+<p>Extraordinary Disruption of Ice in Quilliam Creek.&mdash;Some
+Appearance of Scurvy among the Seamen and Marines&mdash;Discovery
+of Gifford River.&mdash;Commence cutting the Ice outside the
+Ships to release them from their
+Winter-quarters.&mdash;Considerations respecting the Return of
+the Expedition to England.&mdash;Unfavourable State of the Ice at
+the Eastern Entrance of the Strait.&mdash;Proceed to the
+Southward.&mdash;Ships beset and drifted up Lyon
+Inlet.&mdash;Decease of Mr. George Fife.&mdash;Final Release from
+the Ice, and Arrival in England.&mdash;Remarks upon the
+practicability of a Northwest Passage.</p>
+</div>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p><a name='b002_2'></a><a href='#b002'>THIRD VOYAGE</a></p>
+<br>
+<p><a name="c007"></a><a href="#c007_2">
+INTRODUCTION</a></p>
+<br>
+<p><a name="c008"></a><a href="#c008_2">
+CHAPTER I.</a></p>
+<p>Passage to the Whale-fish Islands, and Removal of Stores from
+the Transport.&mdash;Enter the Ice in Baffin's
+Bay.&mdash;Difficulties of Penetrating to the
+Westward.&mdash;Quit the Ice in Baffin's Bay.&mdash;Remarks on
+the Obstructions encountered by the Ships, and on the Severity of
+the Season.</p>
+<br>
+<p><a name="c009"></a><a href="#c009_2">
+CHAPTER II.</a></p>
+<p>Enter Sir James Lancaster's Sound.&mdash;Land at Cape
+Warrender.&mdash;Meet with young Ice.&mdash;Ships beset and
+carried near the Shore.&mdash;Driven back to Navy-board
+Inlet.&mdash;Run to the Westward, and enter Prince Regent's
+Inlet.&mdash;Arrival at Port Bowen.</p>
+<br>
+<p><a name="c010"></a><a href="#c010_2">
+CHAPTER III.</a></p>
+<p>Winter Arrangements.&mdash;Improvements in Warming and
+Ventilating the Ships.&mdash;Masquerades adopted as an Amusement
+to the Men.&mdash;Establishment of Schools.&mdash;Astronomical
+Observations.&mdash;Meteorological Phenomena</p>
+<br>
+<p><a name="c011"></a><a href="#c011_2">
+CHAPTER IV.</a></p>
+<p>Re-equipment of the Ships.&mdash;Several Journeys
+undertaken.&mdash;Open Water in the Offing.&mdash;Commence sawing
+a Canal to liberate the Ships.&mdash;Disruption of the
+Ice.&mdash;Departure from Port Bowen.</p>
+<br>
+<p><a name="c012"></a><a href="#c012_2">
+CHAPTER V.</a></p>
+<p>Sail over towards the Western Coast of Prince Regent's
+Inlet.&mdash;Stopped by the Ice.&mdash;Reach the Shore about Cape
+Seppings.&mdash;Favourable Progress along the Land.&mdash;Fresh
+and repeated Obstructions from Ice.&mdash;Both Ships driven on
+Shore.&mdash;Fury seriously damaged.&mdash;Unsuccessful Search
+for a Harbour for heaving her down to repair.</p>
+<p><a name="c013"></a><a href="#c013_2">
+CHAPTER VI.</a></p>
+<p>Formation of a Basin for heaving the Fury down.&mdash;Landing
+of the Fury's Stores, and other Preparations.&mdash;The Ships
+secured within the Basin.&mdash;Impediments from the Pressure of
+the Ice.&mdash;Fury, hove down.&mdash;Securities of the Basin
+destroyed by a Gale of Wind.&mdash;Preparations to tow the Fury
+out.&mdash;Hecla Re-equipped, and obliged to put to
+Sea.&mdash;Fury again driven on Shore.&mdash;Rejoin the Fury; and
+find it necessary finally to abandon her.</p>
+<br>
+<p><a name="c014"></a><a href="#c014_2">
+CHAPTER VII.</a></p>
+<p>Some Remarks upon the Loss of the Fury&mdash;And on the
+Natural History, &amp;c, of the Coast of North Somerset.&mdash;Arrive
+at Neill's Harbour.&mdash;Death of John Page.&mdash;Leave Neill's
+Harbour.&mdash;Recross the Ice in Baffin's Bay.&mdash;Heavy
+Gales.&mdash;Temperature of the Sea.&mdash;Arrival in
+England.</p>
+</div>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<br>
+<p><a name='b003'></a><a href='#b003_2'>
+ACCOUNT OF THE ESQUIMAUX</a></p>
+<p><a name='b004'></a><a href='#b004_2'>
+NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NORTH POLE IN BOATS</a></p>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name='b001'></a>
+<h2><a href='#b001_2'>SECOND VOYAGE<br>
+ FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A<br>
+ NORTHWEST PASSAGE.<br>
+ CONTINUED.</a></h2>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c001_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c001">CHAPTER X.</a></h2>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>Departure from Winter Island.&mdash;Meet with some Esquimaux
+travelling to the Northward.&mdash;Obstruction and Danger from
+the Ice and Tides.&mdash;Discovery of the Barrow River, and its
+Fall.&mdash;Favourable Passage to the Northward.&mdash;Arrival
+off the Strait of the Fury and Hecla.&mdash;Progress opposed by a
+fixed barrier of Ice.&mdash;Communicate with the Natives of
+Igloolik.&mdash;Unsuccessful Attempt to get between the Ice and
+the Land&mdash;Land upon the Calthorpe Islands.&mdash;The Fury
+drifted by the Ice between two Islands.&mdash;Account of a
+Journey performed in Sledges up an Inlet to the westward.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p>The gale, which had for some time been blowing from the
+northward, veered to the N.W.b.W., and increased in strength on
+the 1st of July, which soon began to produce the effect of
+drifting the ice off the land. At six o'clock on the 2d, the
+report from the hill being favourable, and the wind and weather
+now also sufficiently so, we moved out of our winter's dock,
+which was, indeed, in part broken to pieces by the swell that had
+lately set into the bay. At seven we made sail, with a fresh
+breeze from W.N.W., and having cleared the rocks at the entrance
+of the bay, ran quickly to the northward and eastward. The ice in
+the offing was of the "hummocky" kind, and drifting rapidly about
+with the tides, leaving us a navigable channel varying in width
+from two miles to three or four hundred yards.</p>
+<p>The closeness of the ice again obliging us to make fast on the
+3d, we soon after perceived a party of people with a sledge upon
+the land-floe. I therefore sent Mr. Bushnan, with some of our
+men, to meet them and to bring them on board, being desirous of
+ascertaining whereabout, according to their geography, we now
+were. We found the party to consist, as we expected, of those who
+had taken leave of us forty days before on their departure to the
+northward, and who now readily accompanied our people to the
+ships; leaving only Togolat's idiot-boy by the sledge, tying him
+to a dog and the dog to the ice. As soon as they came under the
+bows, they halted in a line, and, according to their former
+promise, gave three cheers, which salutation a few of us on the
+forecastle did not fail to return. As soon as they got on board
+they expressed extreme joy at seeing us again, repeated each of
+our names with great earnestness, and were, indeed, much
+gratified by this unexpected encounter. Ewerat being now mounted
+on the plank which goes across the gunwales of our ships for
+conning them conveniently among the ice, explained, in a very
+clear and pilot-like manner, that the island which we observed to
+lie off Cape Wilson was that marked by Iligliuk in one of her
+charts, and there called <i>Awlikteewik</i>, pronounced by Ewerat
+<i>Ow-l=itt~ee-week</i>. On asking how many days' journey it was
+still to Amitioke, they all agreed in saying ten; and back to
+Winter Island <i>oon=o=oktoot</i> (a great many), so that we had
+good reason to hope we were not far from the former place. I may
+at once remark, however, that great caution is requisite in
+judging of the information these people give of the distances
+from one place to another, as expressed by the number of
+<i>se=eniks</i> (sleeps) or days' journeys, to which, in other
+countries, a definite value is affixed. No two Esquimaux will
+give the same account in this respect, though each is equally
+desirous of furnishing correct information; for, besides their
+deficiency as arithmeticians, which renders the enumeration of
+ten a labour, and of fifteen almost an impossibility to many of
+them, each individual forms his idea of the distance according to
+the season of the year, and, consequently, the mode of travelling
+in which his own journey has been performed. Instances of this
+kind will be observed in the charts of the Esquimaux, in which
+they not only differ from each other in this respect, but the
+same individual differs from himself at different times. It is
+only, therefore, by a careful comparison of the various accounts,
+and by making allowances for the different circumstances under
+which the journeys have been made, that these apparent
+inconsistencies can be reconciled, and an approximation to the
+truth obtained.</p>
+<p>Many of our officers and men cordially greeted these poor
+people as old acquaintances they were glad to see again, and they
+were loaded, as usual, with numerous presents, of which the only
+danger to be apprehended was lest they should go mad on account
+of them. The women screamed in a convulsive manner at everything
+they received, and cried for five minutes together with the
+excess of their joy; and to the honour of "John Bull" be it
+recorded, he sent by one of the men as he left the ship a piece
+of sealskin, as a present to <i>Parree</i>, being the first
+offering of real gratitude, and without any expectation of
+return, that I had ever received from any of them. I never saw
+them express more surprise than on being assured that we had left
+Winter Island only a single day; a circumstance which might well
+excite their wonder, considering that they had themselves been
+above forty in reaching our present station. They had obtained
+one reindeer, and had now a large seal on their sledge, to which
+we added a quantity of bread-dust, that seemed acceptable enough
+to them. As our way lay in the same direction as theirs, I would
+gladly have taken their whole establishment on board the ships to
+convey them to Amitioke, but for the uncertain nature of this
+navigation, which might eventually have put it out of my power to
+land them at the precise place of their destination. The ice
+again opening, we were now obliged to dismiss them, after half an
+hour's visit, when, having run to the Hecla's bows to see Captain
+Lyon and his people, they returned to their sledge as fast as
+their loads of presents would allow them.</p>
+<p>We continued our progress northward, contending with the
+flood-tide and the drifting masses of ice; and the difficulties
+of such a navigation may be conceived from the following
+description of what happened to us on the 9th.</p>
+<p>At half past eight on the morning of the 9th, a considerable
+space of open water being left to the northward of us by the ice
+that had broken off the preceding night, I left the Fury in a
+boat for the purpose of sounding along the shore in that
+direction, in readiness for moving whenever the Hecla should be
+enabled to rejoin us. I found the soundings regular in almost
+every part, and had just landed to obtain a view from an
+eminence, when I was recalled by a signal from the Fury,
+appointed to inform me of the approach of any ice. On my return,
+I found the external body once more in rapid motion to the
+southward with the flood-tide, and assuming its usual threatening
+appearance. For an hour or two the Fury was continually grazed,
+and sometimes heeled over by a degree of pressure which, under
+any other circumstances, would not have been considered a
+moderate one, but which the last two or three days' navigation
+had taught us to disregard, when compared with what we had reason
+almost every moment to expect. A little before noon a heavy floe,
+some miles in length, being probably a part of that lately
+detached from the shore, came driving down fast towards us,
+giving us serious reason to apprehend some more fatal catastrophe
+than any we had yet encountered. In a few minutes it came in
+contact, at the rate of a mile and a half an hour, with a point
+of the land-ice left the preceding night by its own separation,
+breaking it up with a tremendous crash, and forcing numberless
+immense masses, perhaps many tons in weight, to the height of
+fifty or sixty feet, from whence they again rolled down on the
+inner or land side, and were quickly succeeded by a fresh supply.
+While we were obliged to be quiet spectators of this grand but
+terrific sight, being within five or six hundred yards of the
+point, the danger to ourselves was twofold; first, lest the floe
+should now swing in, and serve us much in the same manner; and,
+secondly, lest its pressure should detach the land-ice to which
+we were secured, and thus set us adrift and at the mercy of the
+tides. Happily, however, neither of these occurred, the floe
+remaining stationary for the rest of the tide, and setting off
+with the ebb which made soon after. In the mean while the Hecla
+had been enabled to get under sail, and was making considerable
+progress towards us, which determined me to move the Fury as soon
+as possible from her present situation into the bight I had
+sounded in the morning, where we made fast in five and a half
+fathoms alongside some very heavy grounded ice, one third of a
+mile from a point of land lying next to the northward of Cape
+Wilson, and which is low for a short distance next the sea. At
+nine o'clock a large mass of ice fell off the land-floe and
+struck our stern; and a "calf" lying under it, having lost its
+superincumbent weight, rose to the surface with considerable
+force, lifting our rudder violently in its passage, but doing no
+material injury.</p>
+<p>On the 12th, observing an opening in the land like a river, I
+left the ship in a boat to examine the soundings of the coast. On
+approaching the opening, we found so strong a current setting out
+of it as to induce me to taste the water, which proved scarcely
+brackish; and a little closer in, perfectly fresh, though the
+depth was from fourteen to fifteen fathoms. As this stream was a
+sufficient security against any ice coming in, I determined to
+anchor the ships somewhere in its neighbourhood; and, having laid
+down a buoy in twelve fathoms, off the north point of the
+entrance, returned on board, when I found all the boats ahead
+endeavouring to tow the ships in-shore. This could be effected,
+however, only by getting them across the stream of the inlet to
+the northern shore; and here, finding some land-ice, the ships
+were secured late at night, after several hours of extreme labour
+to the people in the boats.</p>
+<p>On the morning of the 13th, the ice being still close in with
+the land just to the northward of us, I determined on examining
+the supposed river in the boats, and, at the same time, to try
+our luck with the seines, as the place appeared a likely one for
+salmon. Immediately on opening the inlet we encountered a rapid
+current setting outward, and, after rowing a mile and a half to
+the N.W.b.W., the breadth of the stream varying from one third of
+a mile to four or five hundred yards, came to some shoal water
+extending quite across. Landing on the south shore and hauling
+the boats up above high-water mark, we rambled up the banks of
+the stream, which are low next the water, but rise almost
+immediately to the height of about two hundred feet. As we
+proceeded we gradually heard the noise of a fall of water; and
+being presently obliged to strike more inland, as the bank became
+more precipitous, soon obtained a fresh view of the stream
+running on a much higher level than before, and dashing with
+great impetuosity down two small cataracts. Just below this,
+however, where the river turns almost at a right angle, we
+perceived a much greater spray, as well as a louder sound; and,
+having walked a short distance down the bank, suddenly came upon
+the principal fall, of whose magnificence I am at a loss to give
+any adequate description. At the head of the fall, or where it
+commences its principal descent, the river is contracted to about
+one hundred and fifty feet in breadth, the channel being hollowed
+out through a solid rock of gneiss.</p>
+<p>After falling about fifteen feet at angle of 30&deg; with a
+vertical line, the width of the stream is still narrowed to about
+forty yards, and then, as if mustering its whole force previous
+to its final descent, is precipitated, in one vast, continuous
+sheet of water, almost perpendicular for ninety feet more. The
+dashing of the water from such a height produced the usual
+accompaniment of a cloud of spray broad columns of which were
+constantly forced up like the successive rushes of smoke from a
+vast furnace, and on this, near the top, a vivid <i>iris</i> or
+rainbow was occasionally formed by the bright rays of an
+unclouded sun. The basin that receives the water at the foot of
+the fall is nearly of a circular form, and about four hundred
+yards in diameter, being rather wider than the river immediately
+below it.</p>
+<p>After remaining nearly an hour, fixed, as it were, to the spot
+by the novelty and magnificence of the scene before us, we
+continued our walk upward along the banks; and after passing the
+two smaller cataracts, found the river again increased in width
+to above two hundred yards, winding in the most romantic manner
+imaginable among the hills, and preserving, a smooth and
+unruffled surface for a distance of three or four miles that we
+traced it to the southwest above the fall. What added extremely
+to the beauty of this picturesque river, which Captain Lyon and
+myself named after our friend Mr. BARROW, Secretary to the
+Admiralty, was the richness of the vegetation on its banks, the
+enlivening brilliancy of a cloudless sky, and the animation given
+to the scene by several reindeer that were grazing beside the
+stream. Our sportsmen were fortunate in obtaining four of these
+animals; but we had no success with the seines, the ground
+proving altogether too rocky to use them with advantage or
+safety. We returned on board at thirty minutes past two P.M.,
+after the most gratifying visit we had ever paid to the shore in
+these regions.</p>
+<p>We found on our return that a fresh, southerly breeze, which
+had been blowing for several hours, had driven the ice to some
+distance from the land; so that at four P.M., as soon as the
+flood-tide had slackened, we cast off and made all possible sail
+to the northward, steering for a headland, remarkable for having
+a patch of land towards the sea, that appeared insular in sailing
+along shore. As we approached this headland, which I named after
+my friend Mr. PENRHYN, the prospect became more and more
+enlivening; for the sea was found to be navigable in a degree
+very seldom experienced in these regions, and, the land trending
+two or three points to the westward of north, gave us reason to
+hope we should now be enabled to take a decided and final turn in
+that anxiously desired direction. As we rounded Cape Penrhyn at
+seven P.M., we began gradually to lose sight of the external body
+of ice, sailing close along that which was still attached in very
+heavy floes to this part of the coast. Both wind and tide being
+favourable, our progress was rapid, and unobstructed, and nothing
+could exceed the interest and delight with which so unusual an
+event was hailed by us. Before midnight the wind came more off
+the land, and then became light and variable, after which it
+settled in the northwest, with thick weather for several
+hours.</p>
+<p>In the course of this day the walruses became more and more
+numerous every hour, lying in large herds upon the loose pieces
+of drift-ice; and it having fallen calm at one P.M., we
+despatched our boats to kill some for the sake of the oil which
+they afford. On approaching the ice, our people found them
+huddled close to, and even lying upon, one another, in separate
+droves of from twelve to thirty, the whole number near the boats
+being perhaps about two hundred..Most of them waited quietly to
+be fired at: and even after one or two discharges did not seem to
+be greatly disturbed, but allowed the people to land on the ice
+near them, and, when approached, showed an evident disposition to
+give battle. After they had got into the water, three were struck
+with harpoons and killed from the boats. When first wounded they
+became quite furious, and one, which had been struck from Captain
+Lyon's boat, made a resolute attack upon her and injured several
+of the planks with its enormous tusks. A number of the others
+came round them, also repeatedly striking the wounded animals
+with their tusks, with the intention either of getting them away,
+or else of joining in the attack upon them. Many of these animals
+had young ones, which, when assaulted, they either took between
+their fore-flippers to carry off, or bore away on their backs.
+Both of those killed by the Fury's boats were females, and the
+weight of the largest was fifteen hundred and two quarters
+nearly; but it was by no means remarkable for the largeness of
+its dimensions. The peculiar barking noise made by the walrus
+when irritated, may be heard, on a calm day, with great
+distinctness at the distance of two miles at least. We found
+musket-balls the most certain and expeditious way of despatching
+them after they had been once struck with the harpoon, the
+thickness of their skin being such that whale-lances generally
+bend without penetrating it. One of these creatures being
+accidentally touched by one of the oars in Lieutenant Nias's
+boat, took hold of it between its flippers, and, forcibly
+twisting it out of the man's hand, snapped it in two. They
+produced us very little oil, the blubber being thin and poor at
+this season, but were welcomed in a way that had not been
+anticipated; for some quarters of this "marine beef," as Captain
+Cook has called it, being hung up for steaks, the meat was not
+only eaten, but eagerly sought after on this and every other
+occasion throughout the voyage, by all those among us who could
+overcome the prejudice arising chiefly from the dark colour of
+the flesh. In no other respect that I could ever discover, is the
+meat of the walrus, when fresh-killed, in the slightest degree
+unpalatable. The heart and liver are indeed excellent.</p>
+<p>After an unobstructed night's run, during which we met with no
+ice except in some loose "streams," the water became so much
+shoaler as to make it necessary to proceed with greater caution.
+About this time, also, a great deal of high land came in sight to
+the northward and eastward, which, on the first inspection of the
+Esquimaux charts, we took to be the large portion of land called
+<i>Ke=iyuk-tar-ruoke</i>,<a name='FNanchor_001_1'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_001_1'><sup>[001]</sup></a> between which and the
+continent the promised strait lay that was to lead us to the
+westward. So far all was satisfactory; but, after sailing a few
+miles farther, it is impossible to describe our disappointment
+and mortification in perceiving an unbroken sheet of ice
+extending completely across the supposed passage from one land to
+the other. This consisted of a floe so level and continuous, that
+a single glance was sufficient to assure us of the disagreeable
+fact, that it was the ice formed in its present situation during
+the winter, and still firmly attached to the land on every side.
+It was certain, from its continuous appearance for some miles
+that we ran along its edge, that it had suffered no disruption
+this season, which circumstance involved the necessity of our
+awaiting that operation, which nature seemed scarcely yet to have
+commenced in this neighbourhood, before we could hope to sail
+round the northeastern point of the American continent.</p>
+<p>At thirty minutes past nine A.M. we observed several tents on
+the low shore immediately abreast of us, and presently afterward
+five canoes made their appearance at the edge of the land-ice
+intervening between us and the beach. We soon found, by the
+cautious manner in which the canoes approached us, that our
+Winter Island friends had not yet reached this neighbourhood. In
+a few minutes after we had joined them, however, a few presents
+served to dissipate all their apprehensions, if, indeed, people
+could be said to entertain any who thus fearlessly met us half
+way; and we immediately persuaded them to turn back with us to
+the shore. Being under sail in the boat, with a fresh breeze, we
+took two of the canoes in tow, and dragged them along at a great
+rate, much to the satisfaction of the Esquimaux, who were very
+assiduous in piloting us to the best landing-place upon the ice,
+where we were met by several of their companions and conducted to
+the tents. Before we had reached the shore, however, we had
+obtained one very interesting piece of information, namely, that
+it was Igloolik on which we were now about to land, and that we
+must therefore have made a very near approach to the strait
+which, as we hoped, was to conduct us once more into the Polar
+Sea.</p>
+<p>We found here two divisions of tents, there being eleven where
+we landed, and five more about half a mile to the northward. By
+the time we reached the tents we were surrounded by a crowd of
+men, women, and children, all carrying some trifling article,
+which they offered in barter, a business they seemed to
+understand as well, and to need much more than their countrymen
+to the southward. We were, of course, not backward in promoting a
+good understanding by means of such presents as we had brought
+with us, but they seemed to have no idea of our giving them
+anything <i>gratis</i>, always offering some trifle in exchange,
+and expressing hesitation and surprise when we declined accepting
+it. This was not to be wondered at among people who scarcely know
+what a free gift is among themselves; but they were not long in
+getting rid of all delicacy or hesitation on this score.</p>
+<p>The tents, which varied in size according to the number of
+occupants, consisted of several seal and walrus skins, the former
+dressed without the hair, and the latter with the thick outer
+coat taken off, and the rest shaved thin, so as to allow of the
+transmission of light through it. These were put together in a
+clumsy and irregular patchwork, forming a sort of bag of a shape
+rather oval than round, and supported near the middle by a rude
+tent-pole composed of several deer's horns or the bones of other
+animals lashed together. At the upper end of this is attached
+another short piece of bone at right angles, for the purpose of
+extending the skins a little at the top, which is generally from
+six to seven feet from the ground. The lower part of the
+tent-pole rests on a large stone, to keep it from sinking into
+the ground, and, being no way secured, is frequently knocked down
+by persons accidentally coming against it, and again replaced
+upon the stone. The lower borders of the skins are held down by
+stones laid on them outside; and, to keep the whole fabric in an
+erect position, a line of thong is extended from the top, on the
+side where the door is, to a larger stone placed at some
+distance. The door consists merely of two flaps, contrived so as
+to overlap one another, and to be secured by a stone laid upon
+them at the bottom. This entrance faces the south or southeast;
+and as the wind was now blowing fresh from that quarter, and
+thick snow beginning to fall, these habitations did not impress
+us at first sight with a very favourable idea of the comfort and
+accommodation afforded by them. The interior of the tents may be
+described in few words. On one side of the end next the door is
+the usual stone lamp, resting on rough stones, with the
+<i>ootkooseek</i>, or cooking pot, suspended over it; and round
+this are huddled together, in great confusion, the rest of the
+women's utensils, together with great lumps of raw seahorse flesh
+and blubber, which at this season they enjoyed in most disgusting
+abundance. At the inner end of the tent, which is also the
+broadest, and occupying about one third of the whole apartment,
+their skins are laid as a bed, having under them some of the
+<i>andromeda tetragona</i> when the ground is hard, but in this
+case placed on the bare dry shingle. Comfortless as these simple
+habitations appeared to us in a snowstorm, they are, in general,
+not deficient in warmth as summer residences; and, being easily
+removed from place to place, they are certainly well suited to
+the wants and habits of this wandering people. When a larger
+habitation than usual is required, they contrive, by putting two
+of these together, to form a sort of double tent somewhat
+resembling a marquee, and supported by two poles. The difference
+between these tents and the one I had seen in Lyon Inlet the
+preceding autumn, struck me as remarkable, these having no
+<i>wall</i> of stones around them, as is usual in many that we
+have before met with, nor do I know their reason for adopting
+this different mode of construction.</p>
+<p>Even if it were not the natural and happy disposition of these
+people to be pleased, and to place implicit confidence wherever
+kind treatment is experienced, that confidence would soon have
+been ensured by our knowledge of their friends and relations to
+the southward, and the information which we were enabled to give
+respecting their late and intended movements. This, while it
+excited in them extreme surprise, served also at once to remove
+all distrust or apprehension, so that we soon found ourselves on
+the best terms imaginable. In return for all this interesting
+information, they gave us the names of the different portions of
+land in sight, many of which being recognised in their
+countrymen's charts, we no longer entertained a doubt of our
+being near the entrance of the strait to which all our hopes were
+directed. We now found also that a point of land in sight, a few
+miles to the southward of the tents, was near that marked
+<i>Ping-=it-k~a-l~ik</i> on Ewerat's chart, and that, therefore,
+the low shore along which we had been constantly sailing the
+preceding night was certainly a part of the continent.</p>
+<p>By the time we had distributed most of our presents, and told
+some long stories about Winter Island, to all which they listened
+with eager delight and interest, we found the weather becoming so
+inclement as to determine us to make the best of our way on
+board, and to take a more favourable opportunity of renewing our
+visit to the Esquimaux. After pulling out for an hour and a half,
+Captain Lyon, who had a boat's crew composed of officers, and
+had, unfortunately, broken one of his oars, was under the
+necessity of returning to the shore. My anxiety lest the ships
+should be ventured too near the shore, from a desire to pick up
+the boats, induced me to persevere an hour longer, when the wind
+having increased to a gale, which prevented our hearing any of
+the guns, I reluctantly bore up for our former landing-place.
+Captain Lyon and his party having quartered themselves at the
+southern tents, we took up our lodgings at the others, to which
+we were welcomed in the kindest and most hospitable manner. That
+we might incommode the Esquimaux as little as possible, we
+divided into parties of two in each tent, though they would
+willingly have accommodated twice that number. Immediately on our
+arrival they offered us dry boots, and it was not long before we
+were entirely "rigged out" in their dresses, which, thoroughly
+drenched as we were by the sea, proved no small comfort to us.
+With these, and a sealskin or two as a blanket, we kept ourselves
+tolerably warm during a most inclement night; and the tents,
+which but a few hours before we had looked upon as the most
+comfortless habitations imaginable, now afforded us a sufficient
+and most acceptable shelter.</p>
+<p>The evening was passed in dealing out our information from the
+southward, and never did any arrival excite more anxious
+inquiries than those we were now obliged to answer. So intimate
+was the knowledge we possessed respecting many of their
+relationships, that, by the help of a memorandum-book in which
+these had been inserted, I believe we almost at times excited a
+degree of superstitious alarm in their minds. This sort of
+gossip, and incessant chattering and laughing, continued till
+near midnight, when the numerous visitors in our tents began to
+retire to their own and to leave us to our repose. Awaking at
+four A.M. on the 17th, I found that the weather had moderated and
+cleared up, and the ships soon after appearing in sight, we
+called our boat's crew up, and sent one of the Esquimaux round to
+the other tents to inform Captain Lyon of our setting out.
+Several of the natives accompanied us to our boat, which they
+cheerfully helped us to launch, and then went round to another
+part of the beach for their own canoes. A thick fog had come on
+before this time, notwithstanding which, however, we managed to
+find the ships, and got on board by seven o'clock. Five canoes
+arrived soon after, and the wind being now light and variable, we
+lay-to for an hour to repay our kind friends for the hospitable
+reception they had given us. After supplying them abundantly with
+tin canisters, knives, and pieces of iron hoop, we hauled to the
+northeastward to continue our examination of the state of the
+ice, in hopes of finding that the late gale had in this respect
+done us some service.</p>
+<p>Finding that a farther examination of the eastern lands could
+not at present be carried on, without incurring the risk of
+hampering the ships at a time when, for aught that we knew, the
+ice might be breaking up at the entrance of the strait, we stood
+back to the westward, and, having fetched near the middle of
+Igloolik, were gratified in observing that a large "patch" of the
+fixed ice<a name='FNanchor_002_2'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_002_2'><sup>[002]</sup></a> had broken off and drifted
+out of sight during our absence. At nine A.M. we saw eleven
+canoes coming off from the shore, our distance from the tents
+being about four miles. We now hoisted two of them on board,
+their owners K=a-k~ee and N~u-y=ak-k~a being very well pleased
+with the expedient, to avoid damaging them alongside. Above an
+hour was occupied in endeavouring to gain additional information
+respecting the land to the westward, and the time when we might
+expect the ice to break up in the strait, after which we
+dismissed them with various useful presents, the atmosphere
+becoming extremely thick with snow, and threatening a repetition
+of the same inclement weather as we had lately experienced.</p>
+<p>On the 23d we went on shore to pay another visit to the
+Esquimaux, who came down on the ice in great numbers to receive
+us, repeatedly stroking down the front of their jackets with the
+palm of the hand as they advanced, a custom not before mentioned,
+as we had some doubt about it at Winter Island, and which they
+soon discontinued here. They also frequently called out
+<i>tima</i>, a word which, according to Hearne, signifies in the
+Esquimaux language, "What cheer!" and which Captain Franklin
+heard frequently used on first accosting the natives at the mouth
+of the Coppermine River. It seems to be among these people a
+salutation equivalent to that understood by these travellers, or
+at least some equally civil and friendly one, for nothing could
+exceed the attention which they paid us on landing. Some
+individual always attached himself to each of us immediately on
+our leaving the boat, pointing out the best road, and taking us
+by the hand or arm to help us over the streams of water or
+fissures in the ice, and attending us wherever we went during our
+stay on shore. The day proving extremely fine and pleasant,
+everything assumed a different appearance from that at our former
+visit, and we passed some hours on shore very agreeably. About
+half a mile inland of the tents, and situated upon the rising
+ground beyond the swamps and ponds before mentioned, we found the
+ruins of several winter habitations, which, upon land so low as
+Igloolik, formed very conspicuous objects at the distance of
+several miles to seaward. These were of the same circular and
+dome-like form as the snow-huts, but built with much more durable
+materials, the lower part or foundation being of stones, and the
+rest of the various bones of the whale and walrus, gradually
+inclining inward and meeting at the top. The crevices, as well as
+the whole of the outside, were then covered with turf, which,
+with the additional coating of snow in the winter, serves to
+exclude the cold air very effectually. The entrance is towards
+the south, and consists of a passage ten feet long, and not more
+than two in height and breadth, built of flat slabs of stone,
+having the same external covering as that of the huts. The beds
+are raised by stones two feet from the ground, and occupy about
+one third of the apartment at the inner end; and the windows and
+a part of the roofs had been taken away for the convenience of
+removing their furniture in the spring. It was a natural
+inference, from the nature of these habitations, that these
+people, or at least a portion of them, were constant residents on
+this spot, which, indeed, seemed admirably calculated to afford
+in luxurious profusion all that constitutes Esquimaux felicity.
+This, however, did not afterward prove to be absolutely the case;
+for though Igloolik (as perhaps the name may imply) is certainly
+one of their principal and favourite rendezvous, yet we
+subsequently found the inland entirely deserted by them at the
+same season.</p>
+<p>In every direction around the huts were lying innumerable
+bones of walruses and seals, together with sculls of dogs, bears,
+and foxes, on many of which a part of the putrid flesh still
+remaining sent forth the most offensive effluvia. We were not a
+little surprised to find also a number of human sculls lying
+about among the rest, within a few yards of the huts; and were
+somewhat inclined to be out of humour on this account with our
+new friends, who not only treated the matter with the utmost
+indifference, but, on observing that we were inclined to add some
+of them to our collections, went eagerly about to look for them,
+and tumbled, perhaps, the craniums of some of their own relations
+into our bag, without delicacy or remorse. In various other parts
+of the island we soon after met with similar relics no better
+disposed of; but we had yet to learn how little pains these
+people take to place their dead out of the reach of hungry bears
+or anatomical collectors.</p>
+<p>The account we gave of our visit to the shore naturally
+exciting the curiosity and interest of those who had not yet
+landed, and the ice remaining unchanged on the 24th, a couple of
+boats were despatched from each ship, with a large party of the
+officers and men, while the ships stood off and on. On the return
+of the boats in the evening, I found from Lieutenant Reid that a
+new family of the natives had arrived to-day from the main land,
+bringing with them a quantity of fine salmon and venison, of
+which some very acceptable samples were procured for both ships.
+Being desirous of following up so agreeable a kind of barter, I
+went on shore the next morning for that purpose, but could only
+procure a very small quantity of fish from the tent of the
+new-comer, a middle-aged, noisy, but remarkably intelligent and
+energetic man named <i>T=o=ol~em~ak</i>. After some conversation,
+we found from this man that, in order to obtain a fresh supply of
+fish, three days would be required; this prevented my putting in
+execution a plan of going out to the place where the fish were
+caught, which we at first understood to be near at hand. We
+therefore employed all our eloquence in endeavouring to procure a
+supply of this kind by means of the Esquimaux themselves, in
+which we at length so far succeeded, that Toolemak promised, for
+certain valuable considerations of wood and iron, to set out on
+this errand the following day.</p>
+<p>Shortly, after I returned on board Captain Lyon made the
+signal "to communicate with me," for the purpose of offering his
+services to accompany our fisherman on his proposed journey,
+attended by one of the Hecla's men; to which, in the present
+unfavourable state of the ice, I gladly consented, as the most
+likely means of procuring information of interest during this our
+unavoidable detention. Being equipped with a small tent,
+blankets, and four days' provision, Captain Lyon left us at ten
+P.M., when I made sail to re-examine the margin of the ice.</p>
+<p>It blew fresh from the eastward during the night of the 28th,
+with continued rain, all which we considered favourable for
+dissolving and dislodging the ice, though very comfortless for
+Captain Lyon on his excursion. The weather at length clearing up
+in the afternoon, I determined on beating to the eastward, to see
+if any more of the land in that direction could be made out than
+the unfavourable position of the ice would permit at our last
+visit. The Fury then made sail and stood to the eastward,
+encountering the usual strength of tide off the southwest point
+of Tangle Island, and soon after a great quantity of heavy
+drift-ice, apparently not long detached from some land.</p>
+<p>I determined to avoid, if possible, the entanglement of the
+Fury among the ice, which now surrounded her on every side, and
+to stand back to Igloolik, to hear what information Captain
+Lyon's journey might have procured for us.</p>
+<p>At the distance of one third of a mile from Tangle Island,
+where we immediately gained the open sea beyond, we observed the
+Hecla standing towards us, and rejoined her at a quarter before
+eleven, when Captain Lyon came on board to communicate the result
+of his late journey, of which he furnished me with the following
+account, accompanied by a sketch of the lands he had seen, as far
+as the extremely unfavourable state of the weather would
+permit.</p>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>"Accompanied by George Dunn, I found Toolemak on landing, who
+welcomed us to his tent, in which for two hours it was scarcely
+possible to move, in consequence of the crowd who came to gaze at
+us. A new deerskin was spread for me, and Dunn having found a
+corner for himself, we all lay down to sleep, not, however, until
+our host, his wife, their little son, and a dog, had turned in
+beside me, under cover of a fine warm skin, all naked except the
+lady, who, with the decorum natural to her sex, kept on a part of
+her clothes. At ten A.M. we started, and found the sledge on a
+beach near the southern ice. Four men were to accompany us on
+this vehicle, and the good-natured fellows volunteered to carry
+our luggage. A second sledge was under the charge of three boys
+who had eight dogs, while our team consisted of eleven. The
+weather was so thick that at times we could not see a quarter of
+a mile before us, but yet went rapidly forward to the W.N.W.,
+when, after about six hours, we came to a high, bold land, and a
+great number of islands of reddish granite, wild and barren in
+the extreme. We here found the ice in a very decayed state, and
+in many places the holes and fissures were difficult if not
+dangerous to pass. At the expiration of eight hours, our
+impediments in this respect had increased to such a degree as to
+stop our farther progress. Dunn, the old man, and myself
+therefore walked over a small island, beyond which we saw a sheet
+of water, which precluded any farther advance otherwise than by
+boats.</p>
+<p>"In the hope that the morning would prove more favourable for
+our seeing the land, the only advantage now to be derived from
+our visit, since the fishing place was not attainable, it was
+decided to pass the night on one of the rocky islands. The
+Esquimaux having brought no provisions with them, I distributed
+our four days' allowance of meat in equal proportions to the
+whole party, who afterward lay down to sleep on the rocks, having
+merely a piece of skin to keep the rain from their faces. In this
+comfortless state they remained very quietly for eight hours. Our
+little hunting-tent just held Dunn and myself, although not in a
+very convenient manner; but it answered the purpose of keeping us
+dry, except from a stream of water that ran under us all
+night.</p>
+<p>"The morning of the 27th was rather fine for a short time, and
+we saw above thirty islands, which I named COXE'S GROUP, varying
+in size from one hundred yards to a mile or more in length. Two
+deer were observed on the northern land, which was called
+<i>Khead-Laghioo</i> by the Esquimaux, and Toolemak accompanied
+Dunn in chase of them. On crossing to bring over our game, we
+found the old Esquimaux had skinned and broken up the deer after
+his own manner, and my companions being without food, I divided
+it into shares.</p>
+<p>"Arriving on the ice, a skin was taken from the sledge as a
+seat, and we all squatted down to a repast which was quite new to
+me. In ten minutes the natives had picked the deer's bones so
+clean that even the hungry dogs disdained to gnaw them a second
+time. Dunn and myself made our breakfast on a choice slice cut
+from the spine, and found it so good, the windpipe in particular,
+that at dinner-time we preferred the same food to our share of
+the preserved meat which we had saved from the preceding
+night.</p>
+<p>"As we sat I observed the moschetoes to be very numerous, but
+they were lying in a half torpid state on the ice, and incapable
+of molesting us. Soon after noon we set forward on our return,
+and, without seeing any object but the flat and decaying ice,
+passed from land to land with our former celerity, dashing
+through large pools of water much oftener than was altogether
+agreeable to men who had not been dry for above thirty hours, or
+warm for a still longer period. Our eleven dogs were large,
+fine-looking animals, and an old one of peculiar sagacity was
+placed at their head by having a longer trace, so as to lead them
+over the safest and driest places, for these animals have a great
+dread of water. The leader was instant in obeying the voice of
+the driver, who did not beat, but repeatedly talked and called it
+by name. It was beautiful to observe the sledges racing to the
+same object, the dogs and men in full cry, and the vehicles
+splashing through the water with the velocity of rival
+stage-coaches.</p>
+<p>"We were joyfully welcomed to the dwelling of Ooyarra, whose
+guest I was now to become, and the place of honour, the deerskin
+seat, was cleared for my reception. His two wives,
+<i>K~ai-m=o=o-khi~ak</i> and <i>Aw~a-r=un-n~i</i> occupied one
+end, for it was a double tent; while at the opposite extremity
+the parents of the senior wife were established. The old mother
+N=ow-k~it-y~oo assisted the young woman in pulling off our wet
+clothes and boots, which latter being of native manufacture, she
+new-soled and mended without any request on our side, considering
+us as a part of the family. Dunn slept in the little tent to
+watch our goods, and I had a small portion of Ooyarra's screened
+off for me by a seal's skin. My host and his wives having retired
+to another tent, and my visitors taking compassion on me, I went
+comfortably to sleep; but at midnight was awakened by a feeling
+of great warmth, and, to my surprise, found myself covered by a
+large deerskin, under which lay my friend, his two wives, and
+their favourite puppy, all fast asleep and stark naked. Supposing
+this was all according to rule, I left them to repose in peace,
+and resigned myself to sleep.</p>
+<p>"On rising, Dunn and I washed with soap in a pond, which
+caused great speculations among the by-standers, on some of whom
+we afterward performed miracles in the cleansing way. A large
+assemblage being collected to hear me talk of Ney-uning-Eitua, or
+Winter Island, and to see us eat, the women volunteered to cook
+for us; and, as we preferred a fire in the open air to their
+lamps, the good-natured creatures sat an hour in the rain to stew
+some venison which we had saved from our shares of the deer. The
+fires in summer, when in the open air, are generally made of
+bones previously well rubbed with blubber, and the female who
+attends the cooking chews a large piece, from which, as she
+extracts the oil, she spirts it on the flame.</p>
+<p>"After noon, as I lay half asleep, a man came, and, taking me
+by the hand, desired Dunn to follow. He led to a tent, which,
+from the stillness within, I conjectured was untenanted. Several
+men stood near the door, and, on entering, I found eighteen women
+assembled and seated in regular order, with the seniors in front.
+In the centre, near the tent-pole, stood two men, who, when I was
+seated on a large stone, walked slowly round, and one began
+dancing in the usual manner, to the favourite tune of 'Amna aya.'
+The second person, as I soon found, was the dancer's assistant;
+and, when the principal had pretty well exhausted himself, he
+walked gravely up to him, and, taking his head between his hands,
+performed a ceremony called <i>K=o=on~ik</i>, which is rubbing
+noses, to the great amusement and amid the plaudits of the whole
+company. After this, as if much refreshed, he resumed his
+performance, occasionally, however, taking a koonik to enliven
+himself and the spectators. The rub-<i>bee</i>, if I may be
+excused the expression, was at length brought forward and put in
+the place of the first dancer, who rushed out of the tent to cool
+himself. In this manner five or six couples exhibited
+alternately, obtaining more or less applause, according to the
+oddity of their grimaces. At length a witty fellow, in
+consequence of some whispering and tittering among the ladies,
+advanced and gave me the koonik, which challenge I Was obliged to
+answer by standing up to dance, and my nose was in its turn most
+severely rubbed, to the great delight of all present.</p>
+<p>"Having been as patient as could be wished for above an hour,
+and being quite overpowered by the heat of the crowded tent, I
+made a hasty retreat, after having distributed needles to all the
+females, and exacting kooniks from all the prettiest in return. A
+general outcry was now made for Dunn, a most quiet North
+countryman, to exhibit also; but he, having seen the liberties
+which had been taken with my nose, very prudently made his
+retreat, anticipating what would be his fate if he remained.</p>
+<p>"During a short, interval of fine weather, we hung out our
+clothes to dry, and the contents of our knapsacks, instruments,
+knives, and beads were strewed on the ground, while we went
+inland to shoot a few ducks. We cautioned no one against
+thieving, and were so much at their mercy that everything might
+have been taken without a possibility of detection; yet not a
+single article was found to have been removed from its place at
+our return. At night I was attended by the same bedfellows as
+before; the young puppy, however, being now better acquainted,
+took up his quarters in my blanket-bag, as from thence he could
+the more easily reach a quantity of walrus-flesh which lay near
+my head; and I was awakened more than once by finding him gnawing
+a lump by my side.</p>
+<p>"On the morning of the 29th I was really glad to find that the
+ships were not yet in sight, as I should be enabled to pass
+another day among the hospitable natives. While making my rounds
+I met several others, who were also visiting, and who each
+invited me to call at his tent in its turn. Wherever I entered,
+the master rose and resigned his seat next his wife or wives, and
+stood before me or squatted on a stone near the door. I was then
+told to 'speak!' or, in fact, to give a history of all I knew of
+the distant tribe, which, from constant repetition, I could now
+manage pretty well. In one tent I found a man mending his paddle,
+which was ingeniously made of various little scraps of wood,
+ivory, and bone, lashed together. He put it into my hands to
+repair, taking it for granted that a Kabloona would succeed much
+better than himself. An hour afterward the poor fellow came and
+took me by the hand to his tent, where I found a large pot of
+walrus-flesh evidently cooked for me. His wife licked a piece and
+offered it, but, on his saying something to her, took out
+another, and, having pared off the outside, gave me the clean
+part, which, had it been carrion, I would not have hurt these
+poor creatures by refusing. The men showed me some curious
+puzzles with knots on their fingers, and I did what I could in
+return. The little girls were very expert in a singular but dirty
+amusement, which consisted in drawing a piece of sinew up their
+nostrils and producing the end out of their mouths. The elder
+people were, for the most part, in chase of the tormentors, which
+swarmed in their head and clothes; and I saw, for the first time,
+an ingenious contrivance for detaching them from the back, or
+such parts of the body as the hands could not reach. This was the
+rib of a seal, having a bunch of the whitest of a deer's hair
+attached to one end of it, and on this rubbing the places which
+require it, the little animals stick to it; from their colour
+they are easily detected, and, of course, consigned to the mouths
+of the hunters.</p>
+<p>"The weather clearing in the afternoon, one ship was seen in
+the distance, which diffused a general joy among the people, who
+ran about screaming and dancing with delight. While lounging
+along the beach, and waiting the arrival of the ship, I proposed
+a game at 'leap frog,' which was quite new to the natives, and in
+learning which some terrible falls were made. Even the women with
+the children at their backs would not be outdone by the men, and
+they formed a grotesque party of opposition jumpers. Tired with a
+long exhibition, I retreated to the tent, but was allowed a very
+short repose, as I was soon informed that the people from the
+farthest tents were come to see my performance, and, on going
+out, I found five men stationed at proper distances with their
+heads down for me to go over them, which I did amid loud cries of
+<i>koyenna</i> (thanks).</p>
+<p>"As the ship drew near in the evening, I perceived her to be
+the Hecla, but, not expecting a boat so late, lay down to sleep.
+I soon found my mistake, for a large party came drumming on the
+side of the tent, and crying out that a 'little ship' was coming,
+and, in fact, I found the boat nearly on shore. Ooyarra's senior
+wife now anxiously begged to tattoo a little figure on my arm,
+which she had no sooner done than the youngest insisted on making
+the same mark; and while all around were running about and
+screaming in the greatest confusion, these two poor creatures sat
+quietly down to embellish me. When the boat landed, a general
+rush was made for the privilege of carrying our things down to
+it. Awarunni, who owned the little dog which slept with me, ran
+and threw him as a present into the boat; when, after a general
+koonik, we pushed off, fully sensible of the kind hospitality we
+had received. Toolemak and Ooyarra came on board in my boat, in
+order to pass the night and receive presents, and we left the
+beach under three hearty cheers."</p>
+</div>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c002_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c002">CHAPTER XI.</a></h2>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>A Whale killed.&mdash;Other Charts drawn by the
+Esquimaux.&mdash;Account of a Journey to the Narrows of the
+Strait.&mdash;Discovery of the Sea to the Westward.&mdash;Total
+Disruption of the Ice at the Eastern Entrance of the
+Strait.&mdash;Instance of local Attraction on the
+Compasses.&mdash;Sail through the Narrows, and again stopped by
+fixed Ice.&mdash;Account of several Land Journeys and Boat
+Excursions.&mdash;Observations on the Tides.&mdash;Continued
+Obstacles from fixed Ice.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p><i>Aug.</i> 1.&mdash;The information obtained by Captain Lyon
+on his late journey with the Esquimaux served very strongly to
+confirm all that had before been understood from those people
+respecting the existence of the desired passage to the westward
+in this neighbourhood, though the impossibility of Captain Lyon's
+proceeding farther in that direction, combined with our imperfect
+knowledge of the language, still left us in some doubt as to the
+exact position of the strait in question. While, therefore,
+Captain Lyon was acquainting me with his late proceedings, we
+shaped a course for Igloolik, in order to continue our look-out
+upon the ice, and made the tents very accurately by the compass,
+after a run of five leagues.</p>
+<p>The present state of the ice, which was thin and "rotten,",
+served no less to excite our surprise than to keep alive our
+hopes and expectations. The spaces occupied respectively by ice
+and holes were about equal; and so extensive and dangerous were
+the latter, that the men could with extreme difficulty walk
+twenty or thirty yards from the ship to place the anchors, and
+that at no small risk of falling through. We were astonished,
+therefore, to find with what tenacity a field of ice, whose parts
+appeared thus loosely joined, still continued to hang together,
+notwithstanding the action of the swell that almost constantly
+set upon its margin.</p>
+<p>We had for several days past occasionally seen black whales
+about the ships, and our boats were kept in constant readiness to
+strike one, for the sake of the oil, in which endeavour they at
+length succeeded this morning. The usual signal being exhibited,
+all the boats were sent to their assistance, and in less than an
+hour and a half had killed and secured the fish, which proved a
+moderate-sized one of above "nine feet bone," exactly suiting our
+purpose. The operation of "flinching" this animal, which was
+thirty-nine feet and a half in length, occupied most of the
+afternoon, each ship taking half the blubber and hauling it on
+the ice, "to make off" or put into casks.</p>
+<p>As soon as we had completed the stowage of the blubber, and
+washed the ships and people's clothes, we cast off on the 6th,
+taking in tow the carcass of the whale (technically called the
+"crang") for our friends at Igloolik. The wind dying away when
+the ships were off the northeast end of the island, the boats
+were despatched to tow the whale on shore, while Captain Lyon and
+myself went ahead to meet some of the canoes that were paddling
+towards us. We soon joined eleven of them, and on our informing
+the Esquimaux of the prize the boats were bringing them, they
+paddled off with great delight. When they arrived at the spot,
+and had civilly asked permission to eat some of it, they dropped
+their canoes astern to the whale's tail, from which they cut off
+enormous lumps of flesh and ravenously devoured it; after which
+they followed our boats in-shore, where the carcass was made fast
+to a mass of grounded ice for their future disposal.</p>
+<p>As we made several tacks off the island next to the northward
+of Igloolik, called by the Esquimaux <i>Neerlo-Nackto</i>, two
+canoes came off to us, in one of which was Toolemak. He and his
+companions came on board the Fury, when I employed him for a
+couple of hours in drawing a chart of the strait. Toolemak,
+though a sensible and intelligent man, we soon found to be no
+draughtsman, so that his performance in this way, if taken alone,
+was not a very intelligible delineation of the coast. By dint,
+however, of a great deal of talking on his part, and some
+exercise of patience on ours, we at length obtained a copious
+verbal illustration of his sketch, which confirmed all our former
+accounts respecting the existence of a passage to the westward in
+this immediate neighbourhood, and the large extent of land on the
+northern side of the strait. Toolemak also agreed with our other
+Esquimaux informants in stating, that from the coast of Akkoolee
+no land is visible to the westward; nor was any ever heard of in
+that direction by the Esquimaux. This fact they uniformly assert
+with a whine of sorrow, meaning thereby to intimate that their
+knowledge and resources are there both at an end.</p>
+<p>The disruption of the ice continued to proceed slowly till
+early on the morning of the 14th; the breeze having freshened
+from the northwest, another floe broke away from the fixed ice,
+allowing us to gain about half a mile more to the westward; such
+was the vexatious slowness with which we were permitted to
+advance towards the object of our most anxious wishes!</p>
+<p>On the 14th I left the ship with Mr. Richards and four men,
+and furnished with provisions for ten days, intending, if
+possible, to reach the main land at a point where we could
+overlook the strait. In this we succeeded after a journey of four
+days, arriving on the morning of the 18th at the extreme northern
+point of a peninsula, overlooking the narrowest part of the
+desired strait, which lay immediately below us in about an east
+and west direction, being two miles in width, apparently very
+deep, and with a tide or current of at least two knots, setting
+the loose ice through to the eastward. Beyond us, to the west,
+the shores again separated to the distance of several leagues;
+and for more than three points of the compass, in that direction,
+no land could be seen to the utmost limits of a clear horizon,
+except one island six or seven miles distant. Over this we could
+not entertain a doubt of having discovered the Polar Sea; and,
+loaded as it was with ice, we already felt as if we were on the
+point of forcing our way through it along the northern shores of
+America.</p>
+<p>After despatching one of our party to the foot of the point
+for some of the sea-water, which was found extremely salt to the
+taste, we hailed the interesting event of the morning by three
+hearty cheers and by a small extra allowance of grog to our
+people, to drink a safe and speedy passage through the channel
+just discovered, which I ventured to name, by anticipation, THE
+STRAIT OF THE FURY AND HECLA. Having built a pile of stones upon
+the promontory, which, from its situation with respect to the
+Continent of America, I called CAPE NORTHEAST, we walked back to
+our tent and baggage, these having, for the sake of greater
+expedition, been left two miles behind; and, after resting a few
+hours, set out at three P.M. on our return.</p>
+<p>We reached the ships at ten o'clock P.M. on Tuesday the 20th.
+On almost all the shores both of the main land and islands that
+we visited, some traces of the Esquimaux were found; but they
+were less numerous than in any other places on which we had
+hitherto landed. This circumstance rather seemed to intimate, as
+we afterward found to be the case, that the shores of the strait
+and its immediate neighbourhood are not a frequent resort of the
+natives during the summer months.</p>
+<p>We got under way on the 21st, were off Cape Northeast on the
+26th, and I gave the name of CAPE OSSORY to the eastern point of
+the northern land of the Narrows; but on that day, after clearing
+two dangerous shoals, and again deepening our soundings, we had
+begun to indulge the most flattering hopes of now making such a
+rapid progress as would in some degree compensate for all our
+delays and disappointments, when, at once to crush every
+expectation of this sort, it was suddenly announced from the
+crow's nest that another barrier of <i>fixed</i> ice stretched
+completely across the strait, a little beyond us, in one
+continuous and impenetrable field, still occupying its winter
+station. In less than an hour we had reached its margin, when,
+finding this report but too correct, and that, therefore, all
+farther progress was at present as impracticable as if no strait
+existed, we ran the ships under all sail for the floe, which
+proved so "rotten" and decayed that the ships forced themselves
+three or four hundred yards through it before they stopped.
+Keeping all our canvass spread, we then tried to break the thin
+edges about the numerous holes, by dropping weights over the
+bows, as well as by various other equally ineffectual expedients;
+but the ice was "tough" enough to resist every effort of this
+kind, though its watery state was such as to increase, if
+possible, our annoyance at being stopped by it. The passage to
+the northward of the island was not even so clear as this by
+above two miles of ice, so that in every respect our present
+route was to be preferred to the other; and thus, after a
+vexatious delay of six weeks at the eastern entrance of the
+strait, and at a time when we had every reason to hope that
+nature, though hitherto tardy in her annual disruption of the
+ice, had at length made an effort to complete it, did we find our
+progress once more opposed by a barrier of the same continuous,
+impenetrable, and hopeless nature as at first!</p>
+<p>As soon as the anchors were dropped, my attention was once
+more turned to the main object of the expedition, from which it
+had for a moment been diverted by the necessity of exerting every
+effort for the immediate safety of the ships. This being now
+provided for, I had leisure to consider in what manner, hampered
+as the ships were by the present state of the ice, our means and
+exertions might, during this unavoidable detention, be employed
+to the greatest advantage, or, at least, with the best prospect
+of ultimate utility.</p>
+<p>Whatever doubts might at a distance have been entertained
+respecting the identity, or the contrary, of the place visited by
+Captain Lyon with that subsequently discovered by myself, there
+could be none on a nearer view; as, independently of the observed
+latitude, Captain Lyon could not, on approaching the narrows,
+recognise a single feature of the land; our present channel being
+evidently a much wider and more extensive one than that pointed
+out by Toolemak, on the journey. It became, therefore, a matter
+of interest, now that this point was settled and our progress
+again stopped by an insuperable obstacle, to ascertain the extent
+and communication of the southern inlet; and, should it prove a
+second strait, to watch the breaking up of the ice about its
+eastern entrance, that no favourable opportunity might be missed
+of pushing through it to the westward. I therefore determined to
+despatch three separate parties, to satisfy all doubts in that
+quarter, as well as to gain every possible information as to the
+length of the strait, and the extent of the fixed ice now more
+immediately before us.</p>
+<p>With this view, I requested Captain Lyon to take with him Mr.
+Griffiths and four men, and proceed overland in a S.b.E.
+direction, till he should determine, by the difference of
+latitude, which amounted only to sixteen miles, whether there was
+or was not a strait leading to the westward, about the parallel
+of 69&deg; 26', being nearly that in which the place called by
+the Esquimaux <i>Kh=emig</i> had been found by observation to
+lie. In the mean time, Lieutenant Palmer was directed to proceed
+in a boat to Igloolik, or Neerlo-Nackto, as might be necessary,
+to ascertain whether the passage leading towards Kh=emig was yet
+clear of ice; and, should he find any one of the Esquimaux
+willing to accompany him to the ships with his canoe, to bring
+him on board as a pilot. The third party consisted of Mr.
+Bushnan, with three men, under the command of Lieutenant Reid,
+who was instructed to proceed along the continental coast to the
+westward, to gain as much information as possible respecting the
+termination of our present strait, the time of his return to the
+ships being limited to four days, at the expiration of which the
+other two parties might also be expected to reach us.</p>
+<p>On the morning of the 29th, the wind being light from the
+eastward, but the weather much more clear than before, we weighed
+and stood over to the mainland with the intention of putting our
+travellers on shore, but found that coast now so lined with the
+ice which had lately broken adrift that it was not possible for a
+boat to approach it. Standing off to the westward, to see what
+service the late disruption had done us, we found that a
+considerable floe had separated, exactly in a line between the
+island off which we lay and a second to the westward of it,
+subsequently named in honour of LORD AMHERST. Tacking at the
+newly-formed margin of the fixed ice, we observed, not only that
+it was still firmly attached to the shores, but that it was now
+almost entirely "hummocky," and heavier than any we had seen
+since making Igloolik; some of the hummocks, as we afterward
+found, measuring from eight to ten feet above the surface of the
+sea.</p>
+<p>The different character now assumed by the ice, while it
+certainly damped our hopes of the passage being cleared this
+season by the gradual effects of dissolution, confirmed, however,
+in a very satisfactory manner, the belief of our being in a broad
+channel communicating with a western sea. As the conclusions we
+immediately drew from this circumstance may not be so obvious to
+others, I shall here briefly explain that, from the manner in
+which the hummocky floes are formed, it is next to impossible
+that any of these of considerable extent can ever be produced in
+a mere inlet having a narrow communication with the sea. There
+is, in fact, no ice to which the denomination of "sea-ice" may be
+more strictly and exclusively applied than this; and we therefore
+felt confident that the immense floes which now opposed our
+progress must have come from the sea on one side or the other;
+while the current, which we had observed to run in an easterly
+direction in the narrows, of this strait, precluded the
+possibility of such ice having found its way in from that
+quarter. The only remaining conclusion was, that it must have
+been set into the strait from the westward towards the close of a
+summer, and cemented in its present situation by the frost of the
+succeeding winter.</p>
+<p>A great deal of snow having fallen in the last two days,
+scarcely a dark patch was now to be seen on any part of the land,
+so that the prospect at daylight on the 30th was as comfortless
+as can well be imagined for the parties who were just about to
+find their way among the rocks and precipices. Soon after four
+A.M., however, when we had ascertained that the drift-ice was no
+longer lying in their way, they were all despatched in their
+different directions. For each of the land-parties a dep&ocirc;t
+of several days' provision and fuel was, in case of accidents,
+established on the beach; and Lieutenant Palmer took in his boat
+a supply for nine days.</p>
+<p>On the 31st the wind blew fresh and cold from the northwest,
+which caused a quantity of ice to separate from the fixed floe in
+small pieces during the day, and drift past the ships. Early in
+the morning, a she-bear and her two cubs were observed floating
+down on one of these masses, and, coming close to the Hecla, were
+all killed. The female proved remarkably small, two or three men
+being able to lift her into a boat.</p>
+<p>At half past nine on the morning of the 1st of September, one
+of our parties was descried at the appointed rendezvous on shore,
+which, on our sending a boat to bring them on board, proved to be
+Captain Lyon and his people. From their early arrival we were in
+hopes that some decisive information had at length been obtained;
+and our disappointment may therefore be imagined, in finding
+that, owing to insuperable obstacles, on the road, he had not
+been able to advance above five or six miles to the southward,
+and that with excessive danger and fatigue, owing to the depth of
+the snow, and the numerous lakes and precipices.</p>
+<p>At nine A.M. on the 2d, Lieutenant Reid and his party were
+descried at their landing-place, and a boat being sent for them,
+arrived on board at half past eleven. He reported that the ice
+seemed to extend from Amherst Island as far as they could see to
+the westward, presenting one unbroken surface from the north to
+the south shore of the strait.</p>
+<p>Notwithstanding every exertion on the part of our travellers,
+their labours had not thrown much light on the geography of this
+part of the coast, nor added any information that could be of
+practical use in directing the operations of the ships. The
+important question respecting a second passage leading to the
+westward still remained as much a matter of mere conjecture as at
+first; while the advanced period of the season, and the
+unpromising appearance of the ice now opposing our progress,
+rendered it more essential than ever that this point should, if
+possible, be decided. Under this impression it occurred to me,
+that the desired object might possibly be accomplished by
+pursuing the route along the head or western shore of Richards's
+Bay, part of which I had already traversed on my former journey,
+and found it much less laborious walking than that experienced by
+Captain Lyon on the higher and more rugged mountains inland. I
+determined, therefore, to make this attempt, taking with me Mr.
+Richards and most of my former companions.</p>
+<p>This night proved the coldest we had experienced during the
+present season, and the thermometer stood at 24&deg; when I left
+the ships at four A.M. on the 3d, having previously directed
+Captain Lyon to remain as near their present station as might be
+consistent with safety, and carefully watch for any alteration
+that might occur in the western ice.</p>
+<p>Being favoured by a strong northwesterly breeze, we reached
+the narrows at half past six A.M., and immediately encountered a
+race or ripple, so heavy and dangerous that it was only by
+carrying a press of canvass on the boat that we succeeded in
+keeping the seas from constantly breaking into her. This rippling
+appeared to be occasioned by the sudden obstruction which the
+current meets at the western mouth of the narrows, aided, in the
+present instance, by the strong breeze that blew directly upon
+the corner forming the entrance on the south side.</p>
+<p>Having landed at Cape Northeast, I made sail for the isthmus
+at ten A.M., where we arrived after an hour's run; and hauling
+the boat up on the rocks, and depositing the greater part of our
+stores near her, set off at one P.M. along the shore of
+Richards's Bay, being equipped with only three days' provision,
+and as small a weight of clothing as possible. The coast, though
+not bad for travelling, led us so much more to the westward than
+I expected, in consequence of its numerous indentations, that,
+after above five hours' hard walking, we had only made good a
+W.S.W. course, direct distance six miles. We obtained on every
+eminence a distinct view of the ice the whole way down to
+Neerlo-nakto, in which space not a drop of clear water was
+discernible; the whole of Richards's Bay was filled with ice as
+before.</p>
+<p>We moved at six P.M. on the 4th, and soon came to a number of
+lakes from half a mile to two miles in length occurring in chains
+of three or four together, round which we had to walk, at the
+expense of much time and labour. At half past six, on gaining a
+sight of the sea from the top of a hill, we immediately
+recognised to the eastward the numerous islands of red granite
+described by Captain Lyon; and now perceived, what had before
+been surmised, that the south shore of Richards's Bay formed the
+northern coast of the inlet, up which his journey with the
+Esquimaux had been pursued. Our latitude, by account from noon,
+being now 69&deg; 28', we felt confident that a short walk
+directly to the south must bring us to any strait communicating
+with that inlet, and we therefore pushed on in confident
+expectation of being near our journey's end. At seven P.M.,
+leaving the men to pitch the tent in a sheltered valley, Mr.
+Richards and myself ascended the hill that rose beyond it, and,
+on reaching its summit, found ourselves overlooking a long and
+narrow arm of the sea communicating with the inlet before seen to
+the eastward, and appearing to extend several miles nearly in an
+east and west direction, or parallel to the table-land before
+described, from which it is distant three or four miles. That the
+creek we now overlooked was a part of the same arm of the sea
+which Captain Lyon had visited, the latitude, the bearings of
+Igloolik, which was now plainly visible, and the number and
+appearance of the Coxe Islands, which were too remarkable to be
+mistaken, all concurred in assuring us; and it only, therefore,
+remained for us to determine whether it would furnish a passage
+for the ships. Having made all the remarks which the lateness of
+the evening would permit, we descended to the tent at dusk, being
+directed by a cheerful, blazing fire of the <i>andromeda
+tetragona</i>, which, in its present dry state, served as
+excellent fuel for warming our provisions.</p>
+<p>Setting forward at five A.M. on the 5th, along some pleasant
+valleys covered with grass and other vegetation, and the resort
+of numerous reindeer, we walked six or seven miles in a direction
+parallel to that of the creek; when, finding the latter
+considerably narrowed, and the numerous low points of its south
+shore rendering the water too shoal, to all appearance, even for
+the navigation of a sloop of ten tons, I determined to waste no
+more time in the farther examination of so insignificant a place.
+The farther we went to the westward, the higher the hills became;
+and the commanding prospect thus afforded enabled us distinctly
+to perceive with a glass that, though the ice had become entirely
+dissolved in the creek, and for half a mile below it, the whole
+sea to the eastward, even as far as Igloolik, was covered with
+one continuous and unbroken floe.</p>
+<p>Having now completely satisfied myself, that, as respected
+both ice and land, there was no navigable passage for ships about
+this latitude, no time was lost in setting out on our return.</p>
+<p>At half past eight we arrived on board, where I was happy to
+find that all our parties had returned without accident, except
+that Lieutenant Palmer had been wounded in his hand and
+temporarily blinded by a gun accidentally going off, from which,
+however, he fortunately suffered no eventual injury.</p>
+<p>The result of our late endeavours, necessarily cramped as they
+had been, was to confirm, in the most satisfactory manner, the
+conviction that we were now in the only passage leading to the
+westward that existed in this neighbourhood. Notwithstanding,
+therefore, the present unpromising appearance of the ice, I had
+no alternative left me but patiently to await its disruption, and
+instantly to avail myself of any alteration that nature might yet
+effect in our favour.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c003_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c003">CHAPTER XII.</a></h2>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>A Journey performed along the South Shore of Cockburn
+Island.&mdash;Confirmation of an Outlet to the Polar
+Sea.&mdash;Partial Disruption of the Old Ice, and formation of
+New.&mdash;Return through the Narrows to the
+Eastward.&mdash;Proceed to examine the Coast to the
+Northeastward.&mdash;Fury's Anchor broken.&mdash;Stand over to
+Igloolik to look for Winter-quarters.&mdash;Excursion to the Head
+of Quilliam Creek.&mdash;Ships forced to the Westward by Gales of
+Wind&mdash;A Canal sawed through the Ice, and the Ships secured
+in their Winter Station.&mdash;Continued Visits of the Esquimaux,
+and Arrival of some of the Winter Island Tribe.&mdash;Proposed
+Plan of Operations in the ensuing Spring.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p>A light air springing up from the eastward on the morning of
+the 8th, we took advantage of it to run up the margin of the
+fixed ice, which was now, perhaps, half a mile farther to the
+westward, in consequence of small pieces being occasionally
+detached from it, than it had been when we tacked off it ten days
+before.</p>
+<p>The pools on the floes were now so hardly frozen, that skating
+and sliding were going on upon them the whole day, though but a
+week before it had been dangerous to venture upon them.</p>
+<p>This latter circumstance, together with the fineness of the
+weather, and the tempting appearance of the shore of Cockburn
+Island, which seemed better calculated for travelling than any
+that we had seen, combined to induce me to despatch another party
+to the westward, with the hope of increasing, by the only means
+within our reach, our knowledge of the lands and sea in that
+direction. Lieutenant Reid and Mr. Bushnan were once more
+selected for that service, to be accompanied by eight men, a
+large number being preferred, because by this means only is it
+practicable to accomplish a tolerably long journey, especially on
+account of the additional weight of warm clothing which the
+present advanced state of the season rendered indispensable.
+Lieutenant Reid was furnished with six days' provisions, and
+directed to land where most practicable on the northern shore,
+and thence to pursue his journey to the westward as far as his
+resources would admit, gaining all possible information that
+might be useful or interesting.</p>
+<p>On the 14th, while an easterly breeze continued, the water
+increased very much in breadth to the westward of the fixed floe
+to which we were attached; several lanes opening out, and leaving
+in some places a channel not less than three miles in width. At
+two P.M., the wind suddenly shifting to the westward, closed up
+every open space in a few hours, leaving not a drop of water in
+sight from the masthead in that direction. To this, however, we
+had no objection; for being now certain that the ice was at
+liberty to move in the western part of the strait, we felt
+confident that, if once our present narrow barrier were also
+detached, the ordinary changes of wind and tide would inevitably
+afford us opportunities of making progress. The westerly wind was
+accompanied by fine snow, which continued during the night,
+rendering the weather extremely thick, and our situation,
+consequently, very precarious, should the ice give way during the
+hours of darkness.</p>
+<p>At four P.M. on the 15th we discovered our travellers upon the
+ice. A fresh party being despatched to meet and to relieve them
+of their knapsacks, Lieutenant Reid arrived safely on board at
+seven P.M., having, by a quick and most satisfactory journey,
+ascertained the immediate junction of the Strait of the Fury and
+Hecla with the Polar Sea.</p>
+<p>The weather continuing very thick, with small snow, and there
+being now every reason to suppose a final disruption of the fixed
+ice at hand, I determined to provide against the danger to which,
+at night, this long-wished-for event would expose the ships, by
+adopting a plan that had often before occurred to me as likely to
+prove beneficial in an unknown and critical navigation such as
+this. This was nothing more than the establishment of a temporary
+lighthouse on shore during the night, which, in case of our
+getting adrift, would, together with the soundings, afford us
+that security which the sluggish traversing of the compasses
+otherwise rendered extremely doubtful. For this purpose, two
+steady men, provided with a tent and blankets, were landed on the
+east point of Amherst Island at sunset, to keep up some bright
+lights during the eight hours of darkness, and to be sent for at
+daylight in the morning.</p>
+<p>On the 17th the wind freshened almost to a gale from the
+northwest, with thicker and more constant snow than before. The
+thermometer fell to 16-1/2&deg; at six A.M., rose no higher than
+20&deg; in the course of the day, and got down to 12&deg; at
+night, so that the young ice began now to form about us in great
+quantities.</p>
+<p>Appearances had now become so much against our making any
+farther progress this season, as to render it a matter of very
+serious consideration whether we ought to risk being shut up
+during the winter in the middle of the strait, where, from
+whatever cause it might proceed, the last year's ice was not yet
+wholly detached from the shores, and where a fresh formation had
+already commenced, which there was too much reason to believe
+would prove a permanent one. Our wintering in the strait involved
+the certainty of being frozen up for eleven months; a sickening
+prospect under any circumstances, but in the present instance,
+probably, fatal to our best hopes and expectations.</p>
+<p>The young ice had now formed so thick about the Fury, that it
+became rather doubtful whether we should get her out without an
+increase of wind to assist in extricating her, or a decrease of
+cold. At ten A.M., however, we began to attempt it, but by noon
+had not moved the ship more than half her own length. As soon as
+we had reached the outer point of the floe, in a bay of which we
+had been lying, we had no longer the means of applying a force
+from without, and, if alone, should therefore have been helpless,
+at least for a time. The Hecla, however, being fortunately
+unencumbered, in consequence of having lain in a less sheltered
+place, sent her boats with a hawser to the margin of the young
+ice; and ours being carried to meet it, by men walking upon
+planks, at considerable risk of going through, she at length
+succeeded in pulling us out; and, getting into clear water, or,
+rather, into less tough ice, at three P.M. we shaped a course to
+the eastward.</p>
+<p>In our return to Igloolik we encountered a severe gale, but we
+luckily discovered it at half past ten A.M., though such was the
+difficulty of distinguishing this from Neerlo-nakto, or either
+from the mainland, on account of the snow that covered them,
+that, had it not been for the Esquimaux huts, we should not
+easily have recognised the place. At noon on the 24th we arrived
+off the point where the tents had first been pitched, and were
+immediately greeted by a number of Esquimaux, who came running
+down to the beach, shouting and jumping with all their might.</p>
+<p>As soon as we had anchored I went on shore, accompanied by
+several of the officers, to pay the Esquimaux a visit, a crowd of
+them meeting us, as usual, on the beach, and greeting us with
+every demonstration of joy. They seemed disappointed that we had
+not reached Akkolee, for they always receive with eagerness any
+intelligence of their distant country people. Many of them, and
+Toolemak among the number, frequently repeated the expressions
+"<i>Owyak Na-o</i>!" (no summer), "<i>Took-too Na-o!</i>" (no
+reindeer), which we considered at the time as some confirmation
+of our own surmises respecting the badness of the past summer.
+When we told them we were come to winter among them, they
+expressed very great, and, doubtless, very sincere delight, and
+even a few <i>koyennas</i> (thanks) escaped them on the first
+communication of this piece of intelligence.</p>
+<p>We found these people already established in their winter
+residences, which consisted principally of the huts before
+described, but modified in various ways both as to form and
+materials. The roofs, which were wholly wanting in the summer,
+were now formed by skins stretched tight across from side to
+side. This, however, as we soon afterward found, was only a
+preparation for the final winter covering of snow; and, indeed,
+many of the huts were subsequently lined in the same way within,
+the skins being attached to the sides and roof by slender threads
+of whalebone, disposed in large and regular stitches. Before the
+passages already described, others were now added, from ten to
+fifteen feet in length, and from four to five feet high, neatly
+constructed of large flat slabs of ice, cemented together by snow
+and water. Some huts also were entirely built of this material,
+of a rude circular or octangular form, and roofed with skins like
+the others. The light and transparent effect within these
+singular habitations gave one the idea of being in a house of
+ground glass, and their newness made them look clean,
+comfortable, and wholesome. Not so the more substantial bone
+huts, which, from their extreme closeness and accumulated filth,
+emitted an almost insupportable stench, to which an abundant
+supply of raw and half-putrid walrus' flesh in no small degree
+contributed. The passages to these are so low as to make it
+necessary to crawl on the hands and knees to enter them; and the
+floors of the apartments were in some places so slippery, that we
+could with difficulty pass and repass, without the risk of
+continually falling among the filth with which they were covered.
+These were the dirtiest, because the most durable, of any
+Esquimaux habitations we had yet seen; and it may be supposed
+they did not much improve during the winter. Some bitches with
+young were very carefully and conveniently lodged in small square
+kennels, made of four upright slabs of ice covered with a fifth,
+and having a small hole as a door in one of the sides. The canoes
+were also laid upon two slabs of this kind, like tall tombstones
+standing erect; and a quantity of spare slabs lying in different
+places, gave the ground an appearance somewhat resembling that of
+a statuary's yard. Large stores of walrus' and seals' flesh,
+principally the former, were deposited under heaps of stones all
+about the beach, and, as we afterward found, in various other
+parts of the island, which showed that they had made some
+provision for the winter, though, with their enormous consumption
+of food, it proved a very inadequate one.</p>
+<p>Leaving the Fury at seven A.M. on the 26th, and being favoured
+by a fresh easterly breeze, we soon cleared the southwest point
+of Igloolik; and, having passed the little island of
+<i>Oogli=aghioo</i>, immediately perceived to the W.N.W. of us a
+group of islands, so exactly answering the description of Coxe's
+Group, both in character and situation, as to leave no doubt of
+our being exactly in Captain Lyon's former track. Being still
+favoured by the wind and by the total absence of fixed ice, we
+reached the islands at eleven A.M., and, after sailing a mile or
+two among them, came at once in sight of two bluffs, forming the
+passage pointed out by Toolemak, and then supposed to be called
+<i>Khemig</i>. The land to the north, called by the Esquimaux
+<i>Khiadlaghioo</i>, was now found to be, as we had before
+conjectured, the southern shore of Richards's Bay. The land on
+our left or to the southward proved an island, five miles and a
+quarter in length, of the same bold and rugged character as the
+rest of this numerous group, and by far the largest of them all.
+To prevent the necessity of reverting to this subject, I may at
+once add, that two or three months after this, on laying before
+Ewerat our own chart of the whole coast, in order to obtain the
+Esquimaux names, we discovered that the island just mentioned was
+called <i>Khemig</i>, by which name Ormond Island was <i>also</i>
+distinguished; the word expressing, in the Esquimaux language,
+anything stopping up the mouth of a place or narrowing its
+entrance, and applied also more familiarly to the cork of a
+bottle, or a plug of any kind. And thus were reconciled all the
+apparent inconsistencies respecting this hitherto mysterious and
+incomprehensible word, which had occasioned us so much
+perplexity.</p>
+<p>At daylight on the 27th we crossed to a small island at the
+margin of the ice; and leaving the boat there in charge of the
+coxswain and two of the crew, Mr. Ross and myself, accompanied by
+the other two, set out across the ice at seven A.M. to gain the
+main land, with the intention of determining the extent of the
+inlet by walking up its southern bank. After an hour's good
+travelling, we landed at eight A.M., and had scarcely done so
+when we found ourselves at the very entrance, being exactly
+opposite the place from which Mr. Richards and myself had
+obtained the first view of the inlet. The patch of ice on which
+we had been walking, and which was about three miles long, proved
+the only remains of last year's formation; so forcibly had nature
+struggled to get rid of this before the commencement of a fresh
+winter.</p>
+<p>Walking quickly to the westward along this shore, which
+afforded excellent travelling, we soon perceived that our
+business was at an end, the inlet terminating a very short
+distance beyond where I had first traced it, the apparent turn to
+the northward being only that of a shallow bay.</p>
+<p>Having thus completed our object, we set out on our return,
+and reached the boat at three P.M., after a walk of twenty miles.
+The weather fortunately remaining extremely mild, no young ice
+was formed to obstruct our way, and we arrived on board at noon
+the following day, after an examination peculiarly satisfactory,
+inasmuch as it proved the non-existence of <i>any</i> water
+communication with the Polar Sea, however small and unfit for the
+navigation of ships, to the southward of the Strait of the Fury
+and Hecla.</p>
+<p>I found from Captain Lyon on my return, that, in consequence
+of some ice coming in near the ships, he had shifted them round
+the point into the berths-where it was my intention to place them
+during the winter; where they now lay in from eleven to fourteen
+fathoms, at the distance of three cables' length from the
+shore.</p>
+<p>It was not till the afternoon of the 30th that the whole was
+completed, and the Fury placed in the best berth for the winter
+that circumstances would permit. An early release in the spring
+could here be scarcely expected, nor, indeed, did the nature of
+the ice about us, independently of situation, allow us to hope
+for it; but both these unfavourable circumstances had been
+brought about by a contingency which no human power or judgment
+could have obviated, and at which, therefore, it would have been
+unreasonable, as well as useless, to repine. We lay here in
+rather less than five fathoms, on a muddy bottom, at the distance
+of one cable's length from the eastern shore of the bay.</p>
+<p>The whole length of the canal we had sawed through was four
+thousand three hundred and forty-three feet; the thickness of the
+ice, in the level and regular parts, being from twelve to
+fourteen inches, but in many places, where a separation had
+occurred, amounting to several feet. I cannot sufficiently do
+justice to the cheerful alacrity with which the men continued
+this laborious work during thirteen days, the thermometer being
+frequently at <i>zero</i>, and once as low as-9&deg; in that
+interval. It was satisfactory, moreover, to find, that in the
+performance of this, not a single addition had been made to the
+sick-list of either ship, except by the accident of one man's
+falling into the canal, who returned to his duty a day or two
+afterward.</p>
+<p>While our people were thus employed, the Esquimaux had
+continued to make daily visits to the ships, driving down on
+sledges with their wives and children, and thronging on board in
+great numbers, as well to gratify their curiosity, of which they
+do not, in general, possess much, as to pick up whatever trifles
+we could afford to bestow upon them. These people were at all
+times ready to assist in any work that was going on, pulling on
+the ropes, heaving at the windlass, and sawing the ice, sometimes
+for an hour together. They always accompanied their exertions by
+imitating the sailors in their peculiar manner of "singing out"
+when hauling, thus, at least, affording the latter constant
+amusement, if not any very material assistance, during their
+labour. Among the numerous young people at Igloolik, there were
+some whose activity on this and other occasions particularly
+struck us. Of these I shall, at present, only mention two:
+<i>N=o=ogloo</i>, an adopted son of Toolemak, and
+<i>K=ong~ol~ek</i>, a brother of "John Bull." These two young
+men, who were from eighteen to twenty years of age, and stood
+five feet seven inches in height, displayed peculiar <i>tact</i>
+in acquiring our method of heaving at the windlass, an exercise
+at which <i>K=ong~ol~ek</i> became expert after an hour or two's
+practice. The countenances of both were handsome and
+prepossessing, and their limbs well-formed and muscular;
+qualities which, combined with their activity and manliness,
+rendered them (to speak like a naturalist), perhaps, as fine
+specimens of the human race as almost any country can
+produce.</p>
+<p>Some of our Winter Island friends had now arrived also, being
+the party who left us there towards the end of the preceding May,
+and whom we had afterward overtaken on their journey to the
+northward. They were certainly all very glad to see us again,
+and, throwing off the Esquimaux for a time, shook us heartily by
+the hand, with every demonstration of sincere delight. Ewerat, in
+his quiet, sensible way, which was always respectable, gave us a
+circumstantial account of every event of his journey. On his
+arrival at <i>Owlitteweek</i>, near which island we overtook him,
+he had buried the greater part of his baggage under heaps of
+stones, the ice no longer being fit for dragging the sledge upon.
+Here also he was happily eased of a still greater burden, by the
+death of his idiot boy, who thus escaped the miseries to which a
+longer life must, among these people, have inevitably exposed
+him. As for that noisy little fellow, "John Bull"
+(<i>Kooillitiuk</i>), he employed almost the whole of his first
+visit in asking every one, by name, "How d'ye do, Mr. So and So?"
+a question which had obtained him great credit among our people
+at Winter Island. Being a very important little personage, he
+also took great pride in pointing out various contrivances on
+board the ships, and explaining to the other Esquimaux their
+different uses, to which the latter did not fail to listen with
+all the attention due to so knowing an oracle.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c004_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c004">CHAPTER XIII.</a></h2>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>Preparations for the Winter.&mdash;Various Meteorological
+Phenomena to the close of the year 1822.&mdash;Sickness among the
+Esquimaux.&mdash;Meteorological Phenomena to the end of
+March.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p><i>November</i>.&mdash;The measures now adopted for the
+security of the ships and their stores, for the maintenance of
+economy, cleanliness, and health, and for the prosecution of the
+various observations and experiments, being principally the same
+as those already detailed in the preceding winter's narrative, I
+shall be readily excused for passing them over in silence.</p>
+<p>The daily visits of the Esquimaux to the ships throughout the
+winter afforded, both to officers and men, a fund of constant
+variety and never-failing amusement, which no resources of our
+own could possibly have furnished. Our people were, however, too
+well aware of the advantage they derived from the schools not to
+be desirous of their re-establishment, which accordingly took
+place soon after our arrival at Igloolik; and they were glad to
+continue this as their evening occupation during the six
+succeeding months.</p>
+<p>The year closed with the temperature of-42&deg;, the mean of
+the month of December having been 27&deg; 8', which, taken in
+connexion with that of November, led us to expect a severe
+winter.</p>
+<p>About the middle of the month of December several of the
+Esquimaux had moved from the huts at Igloolik, some taking up
+their quarters on the ice at a considerable distance to the
+northwest, and the rest about a mile outside the summer station
+of the tents. At the close of the year from fifty to sixty
+individuals had thus decamped, their object being, like that of
+other savages on <i>terra firma</i>, to increase their means of
+subsistence by covering more ground; their movements were
+arranged so quietly that we seldom heard of their intentions till
+they were gone. At the new stations they lived entirely in huts
+of snow; and the northerly and easterly winds were considered by
+them most favourable for their fishing, as these served to bring
+in the loose ice, on which they principally kill the
+walruses.</p>
+<p>Towards the latter end of January [1823], the accounts from
+the huts, as well from the Esquimaux as from our own people,
+concurred in stating that the number of the sick, as well as the
+seriousness of their complaints, was rapidly increasing there. We
+had, indeed, scarcely heard of the illness of a woman named
+<i>Kei-m=o=o-seuk</i>, who, it seemed, had lately miscarried,
+when an account arrived of her death. She was one of the two
+wives of <i>Ooyarra</i>, one of Captain Lyon's fellow-travellers
+in the summer, who buried her in the snow, about two hundred
+yards from the huts, placing slabs of the same perishable
+substance over the body, and cementing them by pouring a little
+water in the interstices. Such an interment was not likely to be
+a very secure one; and, accordingly, a few days after, the hungry
+dogs removed the snow and devoured the body.</p>
+<p>Captain Lyon gave me the following account of the death and
+burial of another poor woman and her child:</p>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>"The mother, Poo-too-alook, was about thirty-five years of
+age, the child about three years&mdash;yet not weaned, and a
+female; there was also another daughter, Shega, about twelve or
+thirteen years of age, who, as well as her father, was a most
+attentive nurse. My hopes were but small, as far as concerned the
+mother; but the child was so patient that I hoped, from its
+docility, soon to accustom it to soups and nourishing food, as
+its only complaint was actual starvation. I screened off a
+portion of my cabin, and arranged some bedding for them, in the
+same manner as the Esquimaux do their own. Warm broth, dry
+bedding, and a comfortable cabin, did wonders before evening, and
+our medical men gave me great hopes. As an introduction to a
+system of cleanliness, and preparatory to washing the sick, who
+were in a most filthy state, I scrubbed Shega and her father from
+head to foot, and dressed them in new clothes. During the night I
+persuaded both mother and child, who were very restless, and
+constantly moaning, to take a few spoonfuls of soup. On the
+morning of the 24th the woman appeared considerably improved, and
+she both spoke and ate a little. As she was covered with so thick
+a coating of dirt that it could be taken off in scales, I
+obtained her assent to wash her face and hands a little before
+noon. The man and his daughter now came to my table to look at
+some things I had laid out to amuse them; and, after a few
+minutes, Shega lifted up the curtain to look at her mother, when
+she again let it fall, and tremblingly told us she was dead.</p>
+<p>"The husband sighed heavily, the daughter burst into tears,
+and the poor little infant made the moment more distressing by
+calling in a plaintive tone on its mother, by whose side it was
+lying. I determined on burying the woman on shore, and the
+husband was much pleased at my promising that the body should be
+drawn on a sledge by men instead of dogs; for, to our horror,
+Takkeelikkeeta had told me that dogs had eaten part of
+Keimooseuk, and that, when he left the huts with his wife, one
+was devouring the body as he passed it.</p>
+<p>"Takkeelikkeeta now prepared to dress the dead body, and, in
+the first place, stopped his nose with deer's hair and put on his
+gloves, seeming unwilling that his naked hand should come in
+contact with the corpse. I observed, in this occupation, his care
+that every article of dress should be as carefully placed as when
+his wife was living; and, having drawn the boots on the wrong
+legs, he pulled them off again and put them properly. This
+ceremony finished, the deceased was sewed up in a hammock, and,
+at the husband's urgent request, her face was left uncovered. An
+officer who was present at the time agreed with me in fancying
+that the man, from his words and actions, intimated a wish that
+the living child might be enclosed with its mother. We may have
+been mistaken, but there is an equal probability that we were
+right in our conjecture; for, according to Crantz and Egede, the
+Greenlanders were in the habit of burying their motherless
+infants, from a persuasion that they must otherwise starve to
+death, and also from being unable to bear the cries of the little
+ones while lingering for several days without sustenance; for no
+woman will give them any share of their milk, which they consider
+as the exclusive property of their own offspring. My dogs being
+carefully tied up at the man's request, a party of our people,
+accompanied by me, drew the body to the shore, where we made a
+grave, about a foot deep, being unable to get lower on account of
+the frozen earth. The body was placed on its back, at the
+husband's request, and he then stepped into the grave and cut all
+the stitches of the hammock, although without throwing it open,
+seeming to imply that the dead should be left unconfined. I laid
+a woman's knife by the side of the body, and we filled up the
+grave, over which we also piled a quantity of heavy stones, which
+no animal could remove. When all was done and we returned to the
+ship, the man lingered a few minutes behind us and repeated two
+or three sentences, as if addressing himself to his departed
+wife; he then silently followed. We found Shega quite composed,
+and attending her little sister, between whose eyebrows she had
+made a spot with soot, which I learned was because, being
+unweaned, it must certainly die. During the night my little
+charge called on its mother without intermission, yet the father
+slept as soundly until morning as if nothing had happened.</p>
+<p>"All who saw my patient on the morning of the 25th gave me
+great hopes; she could swallow easily, and was even strong enough
+to turn or sit upright without assistance, and in the forenoon
+slept very soundly. At noon, the sister of the deceased,
+Ootooguak, with her husband and son, came to visit me. She had
+first gone to the Fury, and was laughing on deck, and, at her own
+request, was taken below, not caring to hurry herself to come to
+the house of mourning. Even when she came to the Hecla she was in
+high spirits, laughing and capering on deck as if nothing had
+happened; but, on being shown to my cabin, where Shega, having
+heard of her arrival, was sitting crying in readiness, she began
+with her niece to howl most wofully. I, however, put a stop to
+this ceremony, for such it certainly was, under the plea of
+disturbing the child. The arrival of a pot of smoking
+walrus-flesh soon brought smiles on all faces but that of
+Takkeelikkeeta, who refused food and sat sighing deeply; the
+others ate, chatted, and laughed as if nothing but eating was
+worth thinking of. Dinner being over, I received thanks for
+burying the woman in such a way that 'neither wolves, dogs, nor
+foxes could dig her up and eat her,' for all were full of the
+story of Keimooseuk, and even begged some of our officers to go
+to Igloolik and shoot the offending dogs. A young woman named
+Ablik, sister to Ooyarra, was induced, after much entreaty and a
+very large present of beads, to offer her breast to the sick
+child, but the poor little creature pushed it angrily away.
+Another woman was asked to do the same; but, although her child
+was half weaned, she flatly refused.</p>
+<p>"The aunt of my little one seeming anxious to remain, and
+Shega being now alone, I invited her to stop the night. In the
+evening the child took meat and jelly, and sat up to help itself,
+but it soon after resumed its melancholy cry for its mother. At
+night my party had retired to sleep; yet I heard loud sighing
+occasionally, and, on lifting the curtain, I saw Takkeelikkeeta
+standing and looking mournfully at his child. I endeavoured to
+compose him, and he promised to go to bed; but, hearing him again
+sighing in a few minutes, I went and found the poor infant was
+dead, and that its father had been some time aware of it. He now
+told me it had seen its mother the last time it called on her,
+and that she had beckoned it to Khil-la (Heaven), on which it
+instantly died. He said it was 'good' that the child was gone;
+that no children outlived their mothers; and that the black spot,
+which Shega had frequently renewed, was quite sufficient to
+ensure the death of the infant.</p>
+<p>"My party made a hearty breakfast on the 26th, and I observed
+they did not scruple to lay the vessel containing the meat on the
+dead child, which I had wrapped in a blanket; and this unnatural
+table excited neither disgust nor any other feeling among them
+more than a block of wood could have done. We now tied up all the
+dogs, as Takkeelikkeeta had desired, and took the child about a
+quarter of a mile astern of the ships, to bury it in the snow;
+for the father assured me that her mother would cry in her grave
+if any weight of stones or earth pressed on her infant. She
+herself, he feared, had already felt pain from the monument of
+stones which we had laid upon her. The snow in which we dug the
+child's grave was not above a foot deep, yet we were not allowed
+to cut into the ice, or even use any slabs of it in constructing
+the little tomb. The body, wrapped in a blanket, and having the
+face uncovered, being placed, the father put the slings by which
+its deceased mother had carried it on the right side, and, in
+compliance with the Esquimaux custom of burying toys and presents
+with their dead, I threw in some beads. A few loose slabs of snow
+were now placed so as to cover, without touching, the body, and
+with this very slight sepulchre the father was contented,
+although a fox could have dug through it in half a minute. We,
+however, added more snow, and cemented all by pouring about
+twenty buckets of water, which were brought from the ship, on
+every part of the mound. I remarked that, before our task was
+completed, the man turned and walked quietly to the ships.</p>
+<p>"During the last two days I obtained some information with
+respect to mourning ceremonies, or, at all events, such as
+related to the loss of a mother of a family; three days were to
+be passed by the survivors without their walking on the ice,
+performing any kind of work, or even having anything made for
+them. Washing is out of the question with Esquimaux at most
+times, but now I was not allowed to perform the necessary
+ablutions of their hands and faces, however greasy or dirty they
+might be made by their food; the girl's hair was not to be put
+into pig-tails, and everything was neglected; Takkeelikkeeta was
+not to go sealing until the summer. With the exception of an
+occasional sigh from the man, there were no more signs of grief;
+our mourners ate, drank, and were merry, and no one would have
+supposed they ever had wife, mother, or sister. When the three
+days (and it is singular that such should be the time) were
+expired, the man was to visit the grave; and, having talked with
+his wife, all duties were to be considered as over. The 28th was
+our third day, but a heavy northerly gale and thick drift
+prevented our visiting the grave. The 29th, although not fine,
+was more moderate, and I accompanied him at an early hour.
+Arriving at the grave, he anxiously walked up to it and carefully
+sought for foot-tracks on the snow; but, finding none, repeated
+to himself, 'No wolves, no dogs, no foxes; thank ye, thank ye.'
+He now began a conversation, which he directed entirely to his
+wife. He called her twice by name, and twice told her how the
+wind was blowing, looking at the same time in the direction from
+whence the drift was coming. He next broke forth into a low
+monotonous chant, and, keeping his eyes fixed upon the grave,
+walked slowly round it in the direction of the sun four or five
+times, and at each circuit he stopped a few moments at the head.
+His song was, however, uninterrupted. At the expiration of about
+eight minutes he stopped, and, suddenly turning round to me,
+exclaimed, '<i>Tugw~a</i>' (that's enough), and began walking
+back to the ship. In the song he chanted I could frequently
+distinguish the word <i>Koyenna</i> (thank you), and it was
+occasionally coupled with the Kabloonas. Two other expressions,
+both the names of the spirits or familiars of the Annatko,
+Toolemak, were used a few times; but the whole of the other words
+were perfectly unintelligible to me.</p>
+<p>"I now sent Shega and her father home, well clothed and in
+good case. The week they had passed on board was sufficient time
+to gain them the esteem of every one, for they were the most
+quiet, inoffensive beings I ever met with; and, to their great
+credit, they never once begged. The man was remarkable for his
+extraordinary fondness for treacle, sugar, salt, acids, and
+spruce-beer, which the others of the tribe could not even smell
+without disgust; and he walked about to the different messes in
+hopes of being treated with these delicacies. Shega was a timid,
+well-behaved girl, and generally remained eating in my cabin, for
+I am confident of speaking far within bounds when I say she got
+through eight pounds of solids per diem. As far as gratitude
+could be shown by Esquimaux, which is saying 'koyenna' on
+receiving a present, my friends were sensible of the attentions I
+had shown them."</p>
+</div>
+<p><i>March</i> 5th.&mdash;The Esquimaux were about this time
+rather badly off for food, in consequence of the winds having of
+late been unfavourable for their fishery; but this had only
+occurred two or three times in the course of the winter, and
+never so much as to occasion any great distress. It is certain,
+indeed, that the quantity of meat which they procured between the
+1st of October and the 1st of April was sufficient to furnish
+about double the population of working people who were moderate
+eaters, and had any idea of providing for a future day; but to
+individuals who can demolish four or five pounds at a sitting,
+and at least ten in the course of a day,<a name=
+'FNanchor_003_3'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_003_3'><sup>[003]</sup></a> and who never bestow a
+thought on to-morrow, at least with a view to provide for it by
+economy, there is scarcely any supply which could secure them
+from occasional scarcity. It is highly probable that the
+alternate feasting and fasting to which the gluttony and
+improvidence of these people so constantly subject them, may have
+occasioned many of the complaints that proved fatal during the
+winter; and on this account we hardly knew whether to rejoice or
+not at the general success of their fishery. Certain it is, that
+on a particular occasion of great plenty, one or two individuals
+were seen lying in the huts, so distended by the quantity of meat
+they had eaten that they were unable to move, and were suffering
+considerable pain, arising solely from this cause. Indeed, it is
+difficult to assign any other probable reason for the lamentable
+proportion of deaths that took place during our stay at Igloolik,
+while, during a season of nearly equal severity, and of much
+greater privation as to food, at Winter Island, not a single
+death occurred. Notwithstanding their general plenty, there were
+times in the course of this winter, as well as the last, when our
+bread-dust was of real service to them, and they were always
+particularly desirous of obtaining it for their younger children.
+They distinguished this kind of food by the name of
+<i>k=an~ibr~o~ot</i>, and biscuit or soft bread by that of
+<i>sh=eg~al~ak</i>, the literal meaning of which terms we never
+could discover, but supposed them to have some reference to their
+respective qualities.</p>
+<p>Our lengthened acquaintance with the Esquimaux and their
+language, which a second winter passed among them afforded, gave
+us an opportunity of occasionally explaining to them in some
+measure in what direction our country lay, and of giving them
+some idea of its distance, climate, population, and productions.
+It was with extreme difficulty that these people had imbibed any
+correct idea of the superiority of rank possessed by some
+individuals among us; and when at length they came into this
+idea, they naturally measured our respective importance by the
+riches they supposed each to possess. The ships they considered,
+as a matter of course, to belong to Captain Lyon and myself, and
+on this account distinguished them by the names of
+<i>Lyon-oomiak</i> and <i>Paree-oomiak</i>; but they believed
+that the boats and other parts of the furniture were the property
+of various other individuals among us. They were, therefore, not
+a little surprised to be seriously assured that neither the one
+nor the other belonged to any of us, but to a much richer and
+more powerful person, to whom we all paid respect and obedience,
+and at whose command we had come to visit and enrich the
+<i>Innuees</i>. Ewerat, on account of his steadiness and
+intelligence, as well as the interest with which he listened to
+anything relating to <i>Kabloonas</i>, was particularly fit to
+receive information of this nature; and a general chart of the
+Atlantic Ocean, and of the lands on each side, immediately
+conveyed to his mind an idea of the distance we had come, and the
+direction in which our home lay. This and similar information was
+received by Ewerat and his wife with the most eager astonishment
+and interest, not merely displayed in the "hei-ya!" which
+constitutes the usual extent of Esquimaux admiration, but
+evidently enlarging their notion respecting the other parts of
+the world, and creating in them ideas which could never before
+have entered their minds. By way of trying their inclinations, I
+asked them if they would consent to leave their own country, and,
+taking with them their children, go to live in ours, where they
+would see no more <i>Innuees</i>, and never eat any more seal or
+walrus. To all this they willingly agreed, and with an
+earnestness that left no doubt of their sincerity; Togolat
+adding, in an emphatic manner, "<i>Shagloo ooagoot nao</i>" (we
+do not tell a falsehood), an expression of peculiar force among
+them. The eagerness with which they assented to this proposal
+made me almost repent my curiosity, and I was glad to get out of
+the scrape by saying, that the great personage of whom I had
+spoken would not be pleased at my taking them home without having
+first obtained his permission. Information of the kind alluded to
+was subsequently given to many of the other Esquimaux, some of
+whom could at length pronounce the name of "King George" so as to
+be tolerably intelligible.</p>
+<p>The weather was now so pleasant, and the temperature in the
+sun so comfortable to the feelings when a shelter could be found
+from the wind, that we set up various games for the people, such
+as cricket, football, and quoits, which some of them played for
+many hours during the day.</p>
+<p>At the close of the month of March, we were glad to find that
+its mean temperature, being-19.75&deg;, when taken in conjunction
+with those of January and February, appeared to constitute a mild
+winter for this latitude. There were, besides, some other
+circumstances, which served to distinguish this winter from any
+preceding one we had passed in the ice. One of the most
+remarkable of these was the frequent occurrence of hard,
+well-defined clouds, a feature we had hitherto considered as
+almost unknown in the winter sky of the Polar Regions. It is not
+improbable that these may have, in part, owed their origin to a
+large extent of sea keeping open to the southeastward throughout
+the winter, though they not only occurred with the wind from that
+quarter, but also with the colder weather, usually accompanying
+northwesterly breezes. About the time of the sun's reappearance,
+and for a week or two after it, these clouds were not more a
+subject of admiration to us on account of their novelty, than
+from the glowing richness of the tints with which they were
+adorned. It is, indeed, scarcely possible for nature, in any
+climate, to produce a sky exhibiting greater splendour and
+richness of colouring than we at times experienced in the course
+of this spring. The edges of the clouds near the sun often
+presented a fiery or burning appearance, while the opposite side
+of the heavens was distinguished by a deep purple about the
+horizon, gradually softening upward into a warm yet delicate
+rose-colour of inconceivable beauty. These phenomena have always
+impressed us the most forcibly about the time of the sun's
+permanent setting and that of his reappearance, especially the
+latter, and have invariably furnished a particular subject of
+conversation to us at those periods; but I do not know whether
+this is to be attributed so much to the colouring of the sky
+exactly at the times alluded to, as to our habit of setting on
+every enjoyment a value proportioned to its scarceness and
+novelty.</p>
+<p>Another peculiarity observed in this winter was the rare
+occurrence of the Aurora Borealis, and the extraordinary poorness
+of its display whenever it did make its appearance. It was almost
+invariably seen to the southward, between an E.S.E. and a W.S.W.
+bearing, generally low, the stationary patches of it having a
+tendency to form an irregular arch, and not unfrequently with
+coruscations shooting towards the zenith. When more diffused it
+still kept, in general, on the southern side of the zenith; but
+never exhibited any of those rapid and complicated movements
+observed in the course of the preceding winter, nor, indeed, any
+feature that renders it necessary to attempt a particular
+description. The electrometer was frequently tried, by Mr.
+Fisher, at times when the state of the atmosphere appeared the
+most favourable, but always without any sensible effect being
+produced on the gold leaf.</p>
+<p>The difference in the temperature of the day and night began
+to be sensible as early as the first week in March, and the daily
+range of the thermometer increased considerably from that time.
+The increase in the average temperature of the atmosphere,
+however, is extremely slow in these regions, long after the sun
+has attained a considerable meridian altitude; but this is in
+some degree compensated by the inconceivable rapidity with which
+the days seem to lengthen when once the sun has reappeared. There
+is, indeed, no change which continues to excite so much surprise
+as that from almost constant darkness to constant day; and this
+is, of course, the more sudden and striking, in proportion to the
+height of the latitude. Even in this comparatively low parallel,
+the change seemed sufficiently remarkable; for, soon after the
+middle of March, only ten weeks after the sun's reappearance
+above the horizon, a bright twilight appeared at midnight in the
+northern heavens.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c005_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c005">CHAPTER XIV.</a></h2>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>Various Journeys to the Esquimaux Stations.&mdash;Preparations
+for the Hecla's Return to England.&mdash;Remarkable Halos,
+&amp;c.&mdash;Shooting Parties stationed at
+Arlagnuk.&mdash;Journeys to Quilliam Creek.&mdash;Arrival of
+Esquimaux from the Northward.&mdash;Account of a Journey to the
+Westward for the purpose of reaching the Polar Sea.&mdash;The
+Esquimaux report two Fishing-ships having been Wrecked.&mdash;A
+Journey performed to Cockburn Island.&mdash;Discovery of Murray
+Maxwell Inlet.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p>About the first and second weeks in April, the Esquimaux were
+in the habit of coming up the inlet, to the southward of the
+ships, to kill the <i>neitiek,</i> or small seal, which brings
+forth its young at this season, and probably retires into
+sheltered places for that purpose. Besides the old seals, which
+were taken in the manner before explained, the Esquimaux also
+caught a great number of young ones, by fastening a hook to the
+end of a staff, and hooking them up from the sea-hole after the
+mother had been killed. Our large fishhooks were useful to them
+for this purpose, and the beautiful silvery skins of these young
+animals were occasionally brought to the ships as articles of
+barter: those of the foetus of the <i>neitiek</i> are more yellow
+than the others, and, indeed, both in colour and texture, very
+much resemble raw silk.</p>
+<p>The first ducks noticed by the Esquimaux were mentioned to us
+on the 16th, and a few days afterward immense flocks appeared,
+all of the king-duck species, about the open water near the
+margin of the ice; but our distance from this was so great, that
+we never saw any of them, and the weather was yet too cold to
+station a shooting-party in that neighbourhood. Dovekies were now
+also numerous, and a gull or two, of the silvery species, had
+been seen.</p>
+<p>On the 20th, after divine service, I took the opportunity of
+Captain Lyon and his people being on board the Fury, to
+communicate to the assembled officers and ships' companies my
+intentions respecting the future movements of the expedition; at
+the same time requesting Captain Lyon to furnish me with a list
+of any of the Hecla's men that might volunteer to remain out, as
+it would be necessary to fill up, or, perhaps, even to increase
+the complement of the Fury.</p>
+<p>Our preparations were therefore immediately commenced, a
+twelvemonths' provision and other stores being received by the
+Fury, and various necessary exchanges made in anchors, cables,
+and boats; and, in the course of a single fortnight, the whole of
+these were transported from ship to ship without any exposure or
+labour to the men outside their respective ships, our invaluable
+dogs having performed it for us with astonishing ease and
+expedition. It was a curious sight to watch these useful animals
+walking off with a bower-anchor, a boat, or a topmast, without
+any difficulty; and it may give some idea of what they are able
+to perform, to state, that nine dogs of Captain Lyon's dragged
+sixteen hundred and eleven pounds a distance of seventeen hundred
+and fifty yards in nine minutes, and that they worked in a
+similar way between the ships for seven or eight hours a day. The
+road was, however, very good at this time, and the dogs the best
+that could be procured.</p>
+<p>The wind settling to the southward for a few days near the end
+of April, brought an increased, and, to us a comfortable degree
+of warmth; and it was considered an event of some interest, that
+the snow which fell on the 29th dissolved as it lay on our decks,
+being the first time that it had done so this season. We now also
+ventured to take off some of the hatches for an hour or two in
+the day, and to admit some fresh air, a luxury which we had not
+known for six months. The Esquimaux, about this time, began to
+separate more than before, according to their usual custom in the
+spring; some of them, and especially our Winter Island
+acquaintance, setting off to the little islands called Oolglit,
+and those in our neighbourhood removing to the northeast end of
+Igloolik, to a peninsula called <i>Keiyuk-tarruoke</i>, to which,
+the open water was somewhat nearer. These people now became so
+much incommoded by the melting of their snow-huts, that they were
+obliged to substitute skins as the roofs, retaining, however, the
+sides and part of the passages of the original habitations. These
+demi-tents were miserable enough while in this state, some of the
+snow continually falling in, and the floor being constantly wet
+by its thawing.</p>
+<p>Favourable as the first part of the month of May had appeared
+with respect to temperature, its close was by no means equally
+promising, and on the first of June, at two A.M., the thermometer
+stood at +8&deg;. This unusually low temperature, much exceeding
+in severity anything we had experienced at Melville Island at the
+same season, rendered it necessary to defer for a time a journey
+which it was proposed that Captain Lyon should undertake, across
+the land to the westward at the head of Quilliam Creek, and
+thence, by means of the ice, along the shores of the Polar Sea,
+in the direction towards Akkoolee. The object of this journey,
+like that of most of the others which had been performed in
+various directions, was to acquire all the information within our
+reach of those parts of the continental coast to which the ships
+were denied access; and it was hoped that, at the coming season,
+some judgment might be formed of the probable state of the ice
+along that shore in the summer, by which the future movements of
+the Fury might be influenced. Captain Lyon was to be accompanied
+by two men, and a complete supply of every kind for a month's
+travelling was to be drawn on a sledge by ten excellent dogs,
+which he had taken great pains to procure and train for such
+occasions. As I was desirous of ascertaining, beyond any doubt,
+the identity of the <i>Khemig</i>, to which I had sailed in the
+autumn, with that seen by Captain Lyon on his journey with the
+Esquimaux, I determined to accompany the travellers on my sledge
+as far as the head of Quilliam Creek, and by victualling them
+thus far on their journey, enable them to gain a day or two's
+resources in advance. Another object which I had in view was to
+endeavour to find a lake mentioned by Toolemak; who assured me
+that, if I could dig holes in the ice, which was five feet thick,
+plenty of large salmon might be caught with hooks, an experiment
+which seemed at least well worth the trying.</p>
+<p>On the 7th, the weather being more favourable than before,
+Captain Lyon and myself set out to the westward at half past
+eleven A.M., and the ice proving level, reached Khemig at half
+past five; when it was satisfactory to find that the route
+followed by Captain Lyon on his journey with Toolemak was
+precisely that which I had supposed, every feature of the land,
+of which the fog had before scarcely allowed him a glimpse, being
+now easily recognised, and every difficulty cleared up.
+Proceeding at eight A.M. on the 8th, we soon met with numerous
+tracks of deer upon the ice, which, together with the seals that
+lay in great numbers near their holes, expedited our journey very
+considerably, the dogs frequently setting off at full gallop on
+sniffing one of them. Landing at the head of Quilliam Creek at
+half past one, we took up an advantageous position for looking
+about us, in order to determine on the direction of Captain
+Lyon's route over land, which all the Esquimaux concurred in
+representing as a laborious one. We met with several reindeer
+immediately on our landing; and, while in pursuit of them,
+Captain Lyon discovered a lake two or three miles long and a
+quarter of a mile broad, a short distance from the tents, which
+we concluded to be that of which I was in search. As some of our
+party were suffering from snow-blindness, and, what is scarcely
+less painful, severe inflammation of the whole face, occasioned
+by the heat of the sun, we remained here for the rest of this day
+to make our final arrangements.</p>
+<p>At nine A.M. on: the 9th we struck the tents, and Captain Lyon
+set off to the southward, while we drove over to the lake, which
+is one mile N.N.W. of the head of the creek, and, after three or
+four hours' labour, completed a hole through the ice, which was
+very dark-coloured, brittle, and transparent, and, as Toolemak
+had said, about five feet thick. The water, which was eleven
+fathoms deep, flowed up within a couple of inches of the surface,
+over which lay a covering of snow eighteen inches in depth. In
+confident hope of now obtaining some fish, we proceeded exactly
+according to Toolemak's instructions; but, after four-and-twenty
+hours' trial at all depths, not even a single nibble rewarded our
+labour.</p>
+<p>Coasting the south shore, on which I wished to obtain
+observations and angles for the survey, we the next day entered a
+small bay, where we pitched our tent; our whole party being now
+so snow-blind with endeavouring to distinguish the land from the
+ice (so entirely were both covered with snow), that we could
+literally no longer muster one eye among three of us to direct
+the sledge. I found a handkerchief tied close, but not too
+tightly, round the eyes for a whole night, to be a more effectual
+remedy for this disagreeable complaint than any application of
+eyewater; and my companions being induced to try the same
+experiment, derived equal benefit from it. Reaching Arlagnuk
+towards evening of the 13th, we found that our parties had each
+thirty or forty ducks ready for the ships; and that the Esquimaux
+had lately altogether deserted this station, owing to the
+scarcity of walruses, and had removed to Ooglit, where these
+animals were said to be abundant at this season. Leaving our
+people on the morning of the 14th, I returned on board soon after
+noon, where I found that nothing worthy of particular notice had
+occurred during my absence.</p>
+<p>On the 20th three or four other Esquimaux, strangers to us,
+arrived at Igloolik from the northward, and we found from two
+young men who visited us on the following day, that they came
+from <i>Too-n=o=o-nek</i>, a place undoubtedly situated somewhere
+on the western coast of Baffin's Bay, or about some of the inlets
+communicating with it, as they had there seen several
+<i>Kabloona</i> ships employed in killing whales. It is not
+improbable, from the various accounts of the direction and
+distance of Toonoonek, communicated by the Esquimaux through the
+usual medium of their charts, that the part of the seacoast so
+named lies at no great distance from Pond's Bay, in lat.
+72-1/2&deg;, which has lately become a common rendezvous of our
+Davis's Strait fishermen. Of this fact we had, in the course of
+the winter, received intimation from these people from time to
+time, and had even some reason to believe that our visit to the
+Esquimaux of the River Clyde in 1820 was known to them; but what
+most excited our interest at this time was the sledge brought by
+the new comers, the runner being composed of large single pieces
+of wood, one of them painted black over a lead-coloured priming,
+and the cross-bars consisting of heading-pieces of oak-buts, one
+flat board with a hinge-mark upon it the upper end of a skid or
+small boat's davit, and others that had evidently and recently
+been procured from some ship. On one of the heading-pieces we
+distinguished the letters <i>Brea</i>&mdash;, showing that the
+cask had, according to the custom of the whalers, contained bread
+on the outward passage. The nature of all these materials led us
+to suppose that it must have been procured from some vessel
+wrecked or damaged on the coast; and this suspicion was on the
+following day confirmed by our obtaining information that, at a
+place called Akk=o=odneak, a single day's journey beyond
+Toonoonek, two ships like ours had been driven on shore by the
+ice, and that the people had gone away in boats equipped for the
+purpose, leaving one ship on her beam ends, and the other
+upright, in which situation the vessels were supposed still to
+remain.<a name='FNanchor_004_4'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_004_4'><sup>[004]</sup></a></p>
+<p>We observed on this occasion as on our first arrival at
+Igloolik, that the new Esquimaux were obliged to have recourse to
+the others to interpret to them our meaning, which circumstance,
+as it still appeared to me, was to be attributed, as before, to
+our speaking a kind of broken Esquimaux that habit had rendered
+familiar to our old acquaintance, rather than to any essential
+difference in the true languages of the two people.</p>
+<p>Toolemak having some time before promised to accompany me to
+the fishing-place, taking with him his wife, together with his
+sledge, dogs, and tent, made his appearance from Ooglit on the
+23d, bringing, however, only the old lady and abundance of meat.
+Having lent him a tent and two of our dogs, and hired others to
+complete his establishment, we set out together at five A.M. on
+the 24th, my own party consisting of Mr. Crozier and a seaman
+from each ship. Arriving at Khemig towards noon, we found among
+the islands that the ice was quite covered with water, owing,
+probably, to the radiation of heat from the rocks. The weather
+proved, indeed, intensely hot this day, the thermometer in the
+shade, at the ships, being as high as 51&deg;, and the land in
+this neighbourhood preventing the access of wind from any
+quarter. The travelling being good beyond this, we arrived within
+four or five miles of the head of Quilliam Creek at ten P.M.,
+where we pitched the tents for the night. In this day's journey
+ten dogs had drawn my sledge a distance of forty statute miles
+since the morning, the weight on the sledge being about twelve
+hundred pounds, and half of the road very indifferent. It is the
+custom of the Esquimaux, even when meat is most abundant, to feed
+these invaluable animals only once a day, and that in the
+evening, which they consider to agree with them better than more
+frequent meals; we always observed the same practice with ours,
+and found that they performed their journeys the better for
+it.</p>
+<p>On the morning of the 25th, while passing close to a point of
+land, Toolemak suddenly stopped his sledge, and he and his wife
+walked to the shore, whither I immediately followed them. The old
+woman, preceding her husband, went up to a circle of stones, of
+which there were two or three on the spot, and, kneeling down
+within it, cried most loudly and bitterly for the space of two or
+three minutes, while Toolemak also shed abundant tears, but
+without any loud lamentation. On inquiring presently after, I
+found that this was the spot on which their tent had been pitched
+in the summer, and that the bed-place on which the old woman
+knelt had been that of their adopted son <i>Noogloo</i>, whose
+premature death we had all so much regretted. The grief displayed
+on this occasion seemed to have much sincerity in it, and there
+was something extremely touching in this quiet but unaffected
+tribute of sorrow on the spot, which so forcibly reminded them of
+the object of their parental affection. I have much gratification
+in adding, in this place, another circumstance, which, though
+trifling in itself, deserves to be noticed as doing honour to
+these people's hearts. They had always shown particular
+attachment to a dog they had sold me, and which bore the same
+name as a young man, a son of their own, whom they had formerly
+lost. In the course of this journey, the old woman would
+constantly call the dog "Eerninga" (son), which the affectionate
+animal never failed to repay by jumping up and licking her face
+all over, whenever his trace would allow him; and at night, after
+Toolemak had fed his own dogs, he frequently brought to our tent
+an extra piece of meat, expressly for <i>Ann=owtalik</i>, to whom
+these poor people seemed to take a mournful pleasure in now
+transferring their affection.</p>
+<p>Landing close to the head of the inlet on the south shore, we
+proceeded with difficulty a couple of miles over land till we
+came to a river, the limits of which the warmth of the weather
+was just rendering discernible, and which, our guides informed us
+was to be our fishing place. It was interesting to observe that,
+in every case of doubt as to the situation of a place, the best
+route, or the most advisable method of overcoming any difficulty,
+Toolemak invariably referred to his wife; and a consultation of
+some minutes was held by these two before they would determine on
+what was to be done, or even return an answer to our questions
+respecting it. Pitching our tents upon the banks of the river, we
+went upon the ice, which was still quite solid except close to
+the shores, and soon made two or three holes for a hook and line,
+the thickness of the ice in the middle being from six to seven
+feet. The Esquimaux fishhook is generally composed of a piece of
+ivory, having a hook of pointed iron, without a barb, let into
+it. The ivory they consider useful in attracting the salmon, but
+they also bait the hook with a piece of blubber well cleared of
+its oil by chewing, and securely tied on with a thread of sinew,
+so as to cover nearly the whole of the hook. A small piece of
+bone, reindeer's horn, or wood, serves as a rod, and with this
+they keep the bait constantly in motion up and down, the bait
+being from one to three feet below the surface of the ice.
+Previous, however, to commencing the fishery, the old lady, who
+took the principal part in this employment, muttered some words,
+to me altogether incomprehensible, over the hole, to which
+Toolemak, in a formal manner, added something about fish and
+<i>Kabloonas</i>; and the whole of this preparatory ceremony
+seemed intended to propitiate the spirit to whose department the
+salmon particularly belonged. The lady (for it seems she is a
+female) did not, however, appear to lend a very favourable ear to
+our wants or Toolemak's rhetoric; for, after many hours' patient
+trial on this and the following day, only two fish were seen and
+one caught to repay our labour.</p>
+<p>On the 27th Toolemak and his wife went over to a small shallow
+lake, on the opposite side of the river, where they caught three
+or four fish of the salmon kind, but none more than one pound in
+weight. He then came back to the tent, and made a small spear
+according to their own fashion; but with this, to his great
+disappointment, he could not strike a single fish. A sort of
+<i>fish-gig</i>, which we made out of four large hooks lashed
+back to back at the end of a light staff, succeeded much better,
+the bait being played in the usual manner to attract the fish,
+which were then hooked up with great ease and certainty by this
+instrument. In this manner we soon caught a dozen of the same
+kind as before; and the rest of our party had in the mean time
+killed a deer.</p>
+<p>Toolemak began now to be extremely impatient to return home,
+his principal anxiety arising, I believe, from a childish desire
+to know what I should give him for his trouble; and when, in
+writing a note to Lieutenant Nias, I enumerated the articles I
+intended to present to him, he expressed more delight than I had
+ever before seen escape him. Among these was one of the
+rifle-guns supplied as presents, together with a sufficient
+quantity of ammunition to last him one summer, after which the
+gun would probably become useless itself for want of cleaning. It
+was astonishing to see the readiness with which these people
+learned to fire at a mark, and the tact they displayed in
+everything relating to this art. Boys from twelve to sixteen
+years of age would fire a fowling-piece, for the first time, with
+perfect steadiness; and the men, with very little practice, would
+very soon become superior marksmen.<a name=
+'FNanchor_005_5'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_005_5'><sup>[005]</sup></a> As, however, the advantage
+they could derive from the use of firearms must be of very short
+duration, and the danger to any careless individuals very
+considerable, we did not, on any other occasion, consider it
+prudent to furnish them in this manner.</p>
+<p>On the morning of the 28th Toolemak had left us for the ships,
+carrying with him our venison to be left there, and having first
+explained when and where the Esquimaux catch the fish with which
+he had supplied us the preceding summer; for it now appeared that
+they were not found in great abundance, or of that magnitude, in
+the river, but at the mouth of a very small stream about two
+miles lower down the creek on the same side. Their method is, to
+place in the bed of the stream, which is quite narrow, and seldom
+or never so deep as a man's middle, though running with great
+force, two or three separate piles of stones, which serve the
+double purpose of keeping off the force of the stream from
+themselves, and of narrowing the passage through which the fish
+have to pass in coming up from the sea to feed; thus giving the
+people an opportunity of striking them with their spears, and
+throwing them on the shore without much difficulty.</p>
+<p>On the afternoon of the 1st of July we shifted our tents
+overland, and down the creek as far as the salmon stream. In
+performing this short journey over bare ground, I was enabled to
+form some conception of the difficulties likely to be encountered
+by Captain Lyon and his companions; for, even with our light
+load, the dogs could scarcely move at times. One of the strongest
+of eleven fell down in a fit occasioned by over exertion; the
+poor animal lay on his side, foaming at the mouth for a minute or
+two, but soon recovered sufficiently to be able to walk; and,
+being taken out of the sledge, was quite strong again the next
+day. We had scarcely arrived at the stream, when Toolemak's
+account was very satisfactorily confirmed by our finding on the
+ice near its mouth part of two fine salmon, above two feet in
+length, that had been thrown up by the force of the torrent, and
+a similar one was seen in the water. Our provisions being now
+out, we prepared for returning to the ships the following day;
+and I determined in a short time to send out Mr. Crozier with a
+larger party, well equipped with everything necessary for
+procuring us both fish and deer. We therefore left our tent,
+spare ammunition, and various other articles that would be
+required here, buried under a heap of stones near the stream, and
+on the morning of the 2d set out for the ships. The change which
+one week had made upon the ice it is quite impossible to
+conceive, the whole surface being now checkered with large and
+deep pools of water, where not a symptom of thawing had before
+appeared. This continued the whole way to the ships, which we
+reached at eight P.M., finding Captain Lyon and his party
+returned, after a laborious but unsuccessful endeavour to
+penetrate overland to the westward. On my arrival at the ships I
+found several new Esquimaux on board, who, to the number of
+twenty, had lately arrived from <i>Toon=o=onee-r=o=ochiuk</i>, a
+place situated to the westward and northward of Igloolik, and
+somewhere upon the opposite coast of Cockburn Island. This party
+confirmed the former account respecting the two ships that had
+been forced on shore; and, indeed, as an earnest of its truth,
+one man named <i>Adloo</i>, who was said to have actually seen
+them in this state, was a day or two afterward met by our people
+at Arlagnuk, while travelling to the southward, and having on his
+sledge a great deal of wood of the same kind as that before
+described.</p>
+<p>This information having excited considerable interest,
+Lieutenant Hoppner, who had taken great pains to ascertain the
+facts correctly, volunteered his services to accompany some of
+the Esquimaux, who were said to be going northward very shortly,
+and to obtain every information on this and other subjects which
+might be within the scope of such a journey. On the night of the
+4th, having heard that a party of the Esquimaux intended setting
+out the following morning, Lieutenant Hoppner and his people went
+out to their tents to be in readiness to accompany them. We were
+surprised to find the next day, that not only Lieutenant
+Hoppner's intended guide, but the whole of the rest of these
+people, had altogether left the island, and, as it afterward
+proved, permanently for the summer. We were now, therefore, for
+the first time since our arrival here, entirely deserted by the
+natives, only two or three of whom again visited the ships during
+the remainder of our stay. It appears probable, indeed, that
+these wandering people are in the habit of residing at their
+various stations only at particular intervals of time, perhaps
+with the intention of not scaring the walruses and seals too much
+by a very long residence at one time upon the same spot. What
+made this appear still more likely was the present state of their
+winter habitations at Igloolik, which, though offensive enough at
+about the same time the preceding year, were then wholesome and
+comfortable in comparison. Besides quantities of putrid walrus
+flesh, blubber, and oil, carcasses of dogs, and even of human
+beings recently deceased, were now to be seen exposed in their
+neighbourhood. What remained of the corpse of Keim=o=oseuk was of
+course wholly uncovered; a second, of a child, on which the
+wolves had feasted, was also lying about; and a third, of a
+newly-born infant, was discovered in the middle of a small lake
+by Mr. Richards, who caused them all to be buried under
+ground.</p>
+<p>Our stock of meat for the dogs being nearly expended, and no
+seahorses having yet been seen near the shore, I sent Mr. Ross
+with a sledge to Tern Island on the 13th, in expectation of being
+supplied by the Esquimaux. Mr. Ross returned on the 14th without
+success, the whole of the natives having left the island after
+plundering the birds' nests, as they had done the preceding
+year.</p>
+<p>Finding that our valuable dogs must be now wholly dependant on
+our own exertions in providing meat, a boat from each ship was
+carried down to the neighbourhood of the open water, and shortly
+afterward two others, to endeavour to kill walruses for them.
+This was the more desirable from the probability of the Fury's
+passing her next winter where no natives were resident, and the
+consequent necessity of laying in our stock for that long and
+dreary season during the present summer. Our people, therefore,
+pitched their tents near the old Esquimaux habitations; and thus
+were four boats constantly employed, whenever the weather would
+permit, for the three succeeding weeks.</p>
+<p>On the 16th Lieutenant Hoppner and his party returned to the
+ships, having only been enabled to travel to the south shore of
+Cockburn Island, on account of their guides not yet proceeding
+any farther. Two of the Esquimaux accompanied our travellers back
+to Igloolik, and, being loaded with various useful presents from
+the ships, returned home the following day.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c006_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c006">CHAPTER XV.</a></h2>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>Extraordinary Disruption of Ice in Quilliam Creek.&mdash;Some
+Appearance of Scurvy among the Seamen and
+Marines.&mdash;Discovery of Gifford River.&mdash;Commence cutting
+the Ice outside the Ships to release them from their
+Winter-quarters.&mdash;Considerations respecting the Return of
+the Expedition to England.&mdash;Unfavourable State of the Ice at
+the Eastern Entrance of the Strait.&mdash;Proceed to the
+Southward.&mdash;Ships beset and drifted up Lyon
+Inlet.&mdash;Decease of Mr. George Fife.&mdash;Final Release from
+the Ice, and Arrival in England.&mdash;Remarks upon the
+practicability of a Northwest Passage.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p>Among the various changes which the warmth of the returning
+summer was now producing around us, none was more remarkable than
+that noticed by Captain Lyon in an excursion to Quilliam Creek,
+and which, in a note received from him by the return of the
+sledges on the 17th, he thus describes: "Between the two points
+forming the entrance of the creek, we saw a high wall of ice
+extending immediately across from land to land, and on arriving
+at it, found that, by some extraordinary convulsion, the floe had
+burst upward, and that immense masses of ice had been thrown in
+every direction. Several blocks, eight or nine feet in thickness,
+and many yards in diameter, were lying on the level solid floe;
+yet we were for some time at a loss to discover whence they had
+been ejected, till at length we found a hole or pool, which
+appeared so small as to be hardly capable of containing the
+immense fragments near it; yet from this place alone must they
+have been thrown."</p>
+<p>Captain Lyon subsequently added, that "the water, which was
+found to be quite fresh, was running rapidly to seaward in this
+opening; and it seemed probable that the vast accumulation from
+the streams at the head of the creek, although at about ten miles
+distance, had burst a passage, and thus ejected the ice. The
+force employed for this purpose may be conceived, when I mention
+that, of several masses of ice, one in particular was above eight
+feet thick, full forty yards in circumference, and lay more than
+five hundred yards from the pool. No traces could be found of the
+manner in which these bodies had been transported, as not a
+single small fragment was seen lying about, to warrant the
+supposition that they had fallen with a shock. Neither were there
+any marks observable on the smooth uncracked floe to cause a
+suspicion that they had slidden over it, the general appearance
+of the floe at this place being the same as at all other parts of
+the inlet, and bearing no marks of having had any rush of water
+over it."</p>
+<p>The weather was now, at times, extremely sultry, bringing out
+swarms of moschetoes, that soon became very troublesome, even on
+board the ships. A thermometer suspended in the middle of the
+observatory, and exposed to the sun's rays, was observed by Mr.
+Fisher to stand at 92&deg; at five P.M. on the 18th.</p>
+<p>On the 19th Captain Lyon returned from Quilliam Creek,
+bringing with him the whole of our party stationed there, the ice
+being now so broken up in that neighbourhood as to render the
+fishing dangerous without proper boats. On this journey, which it
+took two days to perform, eleven dogs drew a weight of two
+thousand and fifty pounds, of which six hundred and forty were
+salmon, and ninety-five venison, procured by our people. The fish
+had all been caught in the trawl; and treble the quantity might
+easily have been taken with a seine, had we known how wide the
+mouth of the stream was to become. They varied in length from
+twenty to twenty six inches, and one of the largest, when
+cleaned, weighed eight pounds and a half; but their average
+weight in this state did not exceed two pounds and a quarter. The
+distance of the fishing-place from the ships, the dangerous state
+of the ice, and the soreness of the dogs' feet from travelling on
+the rough, honey-combed ice, prevented our taking any farther
+advantage of this very acceptable change of diet.</p>
+<p>Nothing worthy of notice occurred till the 29th, when a patch
+of ice, a mile broad, separated from the outer margin of our
+barrier and drifted away. The canal formed by laying sand on the
+ice was now quite through in most places, showing that the plan
+would, in this latitude at least, always ensure a ship's escape
+at an earlier season than by the regular course of nature,
+provided it could be carried the whole way down to the open
+water.</p>
+<p>I am now under the disagreeable necessity of entering on a
+subject which I had at one time ventured to hope need scarcely
+occupy any part of this narrative: I mean that of the scurvy,
+some slight but unequivocal symptoms of which disease were this
+day reported to me, by Mr. Edwards, to have appeared among four
+or five of the Fury's men, rendering it necessary, for the first
+time during the voyage, to have recourse to antiscorbutic
+treatment among the seamen and marines.</p>
+<p>It will, perhaps, be considered a curious and singular fact in
+the history of sea-scurvy, that during the whole of the preceding
+part of this voyage, none among us but officers were in the
+slightest degree affected by it, a circumstance directly contrary
+to former experience. To whatever causes this might be
+attributed, it could not, however, but be highly gratifying to be
+thus assured that the various means employed to preserve the
+health of the seamen and marines had proved even beyond
+expectation efficacious.</p>
+<p>That a ship's company began to evince symptoms of scurvy after
+twenty-seven months' entire dependance upon the resources
+contained within their ship (an experiment hitherto unknown,
+perhaps, in the annals of navigation, even for one fourth part of
+that period), could scarcely, indeed, be a subject of wonder,
+though it was at this particular time a matter of very sincere
+regret. From the health enjoyed by our people during two
+successive winters, unassisted as we had been by any supply of
+<i>fresh</i> antiscorbutic plants or other vegetables, I had
+began to indulge a hope that, with a continued attention to their
+comforts, cleanliness, and exercise, the same degree of vigour
+might, humanly speaking, be ensured at least as long as our
+present liberal resources should last. Present appearances,
+however, seemed to indicate differently; for, though our
+sick-list had scarcely a name upon it, and almost every
+individual was performing his accustomed duty, yet we had at
+length been impressed with the unpleasant conviction that a
+strong predisposition to disease existed among us, and that no
+very powerful exciting cause was wanting to render it more
+seriously apparent. Such a conviction at the present crisis was
+peculiarly disagreeable; for I could not but lament any
+circumstance tending to weaken the confidence in our strength and
+resources at a time when more than ordinary exertion was about to
+be required at our hands.</p>
+<p>The 1st of August had now arrived; and yet, incredible as it
+may appear, the ships were as securely confined in the ice as in
+the middle of winter, except that a pool of water, about twice
+their own length in diameter, was now opened around them. I
+determined, therefore, notwithstanding the apparent hopelessness
+of sawing our way through four or five miles of ice, to begin
+that laborious process; not, indeed, with the hope of cutting a
+canal sufficiently large to allow the passage of the ships to
+sea, but with a view to weaken it so much as in some measure to
+assist its disruption whenever any swell should set in upon its
+margin. On this and the following day, therefore, all the gear
+was carried down for that purpose, and a large tent pitched for
+the ships' companies to dine in, the distance being too great to
+allow them to return on board to their meals. On the 3d, however,
+we were saved a great deal of unnecessary labour, by the ice
+opening out at the crack before mentioned, so that our sawing
+might now be commenced within a mile of the Fury. After divine
+service, therefore, all hands were sent from both ships to bring
+back the tent and tools to the point of Oongalooyat, and the
+parties were recalled from the walrus-fishery, except a single
+boat's crew: these also returned on board a few days after, the
+whole number of seahorses killed being eight, and one large
+seal.</p>
+<p>On the 4th our sawing work was commenced, with the usual
+alacrity on the part of the officers and men, and three hundred
+and fifty yards of ice were got out before night, its thickness
+varying from one to four feet, but very irregular on account of
+the numerous pools and holes. An equal length was accomplished on
+the following day, though not without excessive fatigue and
+constant wet to the men, several of whom fell into the water by
+the ice breaking under them.</p>
+<p>On the 5th, the register-thermometer, which had been placed in
+the ground in the winter, was taken up, though, to our
+astonishment, the ground above and about it had become nearly as
+hard and compactly frozen as when we dug the hole to put it down.
+How this came about we were quite at a loss to determine; for the
+earth had been thrown in quite loosely, whereas its present
+consolidated state implied its having been thoroughly thawed and
+frozen again. It occupied two men ten days to extricate it,
+which, as they approached the thermometer, was done by a chisel
+and mallet, to avoid injury by jarring. This, however, was not
+sufficient to prevent mischief, the instrument being so
+identified with the frozen earth as to render it impossible to
+strike the ground near it without communicating the shock to the
+tubes, two of which were in consequence found to be broken. Thus
+ended our experiment for ascertaining the temperature of the
+earth during the winter; an experiment which it would seem, from
+this attempt, scarcely practicable to make in any satisfactory
+manner without some apparatus constructed expressly for the
+purpose.</p>
+<p>On the 6th the work was continued as before, and about four
+hundred yards of ice were sawn through and floated out, leaving
+now a broad canal, eleven hundred yards in length, leading from
+the open water towards that formed by the gravelled space.</p>
+<p>When the lateness of the season to which the ships had now
+been detained in the ice is considered, with reference to the
+probability of the Fury's effecting anything of importance during
+the short remainder of the present summer, it will not be
+wondered at that, coupling this consideration with that of the
+health of my officers and men, I began to entertain doubts
+whether it would still be prudent to adopt the intended measure
+of remaining out in the Fury as a single ship; whether, in short,
+under existing circumstances, the probable evil did not far
+outweigh the possible good. In order to assist my own judgment on
+this occasion upon one of the most material points, I requested
+the medical officers of the Fury to furnish me with their
+opinions "as to the probable effect that a third winter passed in
+these regions would produce on the health of the officers,
+seamen, and marines of that ship, taking into consideration every
+circumstance connected with our situation." Their answer was
+decidedly adverse to remaining; and it was fortified with such
+good reasons, connected with the health of the officers and
+crews, as scarcely to leave me at liberty to adopt any other
+course than that of returning to England with both vessels.</p>
+<p>Enclosing to Captain Lyon the replies of the medical
+gentlemen, I now also requested his opinion whether, under
+existing circumstances, he still considered it expedient to adopt
+the measure originally intended, with respect to the separation
+of the two ships. I had scarcely despatched a letter to this
+effect, when, at 10 A.M. on the 8th, the ice about the Fury began
+to move, the pools breaking up, and the gravelled canal soon
+entirely closing. A breeze springing up from the northward at
+this time, all sail was made upon the ship, and the ice gradually
+driving out as it detached itself from the shore, the Fury got
+into open water about one P.M. The Hecla, however, still remained
+in the middle of her winter's floe, which, though it moved a
+little with the rest at first, did not come out of the bay. In
+the course of the afternoon, finding her still stationary, I
+determined to occupy the time in stretching over to the
+northward, for the purpose of examining the state of the fixed
+ice at the eastern mouth of the strait; and, arriving at its
+margin by ten P.M., found it attached to both shores from the
+northeastern part of Neerlo-naktoo across to Murray Maxwell
+Inlet. It was the general opinion that this ice was in a more
+solid state than at the same time and place the preceding year,
+but its situation did not, I believe, differ half a mile from
+what it had then been. As the sun went down nearly in the
+direction of the strait, we obtained from the masthead a distinct
+and extensive view in that quarter, and it is impossible to
+conceive a more hopeless prospect than this now presented. One
+vast expanse of level solid ice occupied the whole extent of sea
+visible to the westward, and the eye wearied itself in vain to
+discover a single break upon its surface.</p>
+<p>Having finished this examination, which at once destroyed
+every hope I had never ceased to indulge of a passage through the
+strait, we returned towards Igloolik to rejoin the Hecla. It was
+not, however, till the morning of the 9th that we observed her to
+be moving out of the bay, when at length (for the first time,
+perhaps, that such an event ever occurred) she drove to sea in
+the middle of the floe. Thus at the mercy of the ice, she was
+carried over the shoals off the southeast point of Igloolik in
+six and a half fathoms, but was then fortunately drifted into
+deeper water. The swell on the outside was all that was wanting
+to break up her icy prison, which, separating at seven A.M.,
+finally released her from confinement.</p>
+<p>Having soon afterward received Captain Lyon's answer to my
+communication, it was necessary for me to come to a final
+determination on the subject therein alluded to. For various
+reasons, he advised that the Fury and Hecla should return to
+England together, as soon as such arrangements respecting the
+removal of stores and provisions, as I might judge proper to
+make, should be completed.</p>
+<p>Under such circumstances, to which may be added the
+uncertainty of the Hecla's liberation from the ice to the
+southward before the close of the season, I no longer considered
+it prudent or justifiable, upon the slender chance of eventual
+success now before us, to risk the safety of the officers and men
+committed to my charge, and whom it was now my first wish to
+reconduct in good health to their country and their friends.
+Having communicated my intentions to the officers and ships'
+companies, I directed several additions to be made to their
+ordinary allowance of provisions, particularly in the various
+antiscorbutics, which had hitherto been reserved for cases of
+emergency; and then beating up to our winter station, which I
+named Turton Bay, we anchored there in the afternoon in ten
+fathoms, and immediately commenced our preparations for
+lightening the Fury. Seven months' provisions, a bower anchor,
+and a few other stores, were received by the Hecla, some of her
+water, before filled as ballast, being started to make room for
+them; and such other arrangements made as circumstances would
+permit for improving the stowage of the Fury's hold. The bay was
+now entirely clear of ice in every part; and so changed was its
+appearance in the course of the last four-and-twenty hours, that
+it was scarcely possible to believe it the same place that we had
+been accustomed daily to look upon for the ten preceding
+months.</p>
+<p>The conveyance and stowage of the stores had scarcely been
+completed, when some loose ice drifting into the bay with the
+tide on the night of the 10th, obliged us hastily to get under
+way and stand out. On the following morning I ran across to the
+main land in the Fury, for the purpose of erecting, in compliance
+with my instructions, a flagstaff fifty-six feet in height,
+having at its top a ball, made of iron hoops and canvass, ten
+feet in diameter, and a cylinder buried near its foot, containing
+a parchment with some account of our visit to this place. In the
+mean time, I requested Captain Lyon to stand over to the point of
+Igloolik, where our walruses had been landed, and to bring off
+these, as well as our boats and tents remaining there. The ice
+soon after coming in upon the point, it was not without risk of
+the Hecla's being dangerously beset that Captain Lyon succeeded
+in bringing off everything but one boat. This was, indeed, no
+great loss to us, though a great acquisition to the Esquimaux;
+for, being almost worn out, I had intended to break her up
+previously to leaving the ice. Besides this, we purposely left
+our sledges, and a quantity of wood in pieces of a convenient
+size for bows, spears, and paddles, distributing them about in
+several places, that one or two individuals might not make a
+prize of the whole.</p>
+<p>The Hecla rejoining us on the morning of the 12th, we stood
+out to the eastward, and finally took our departure from
+Igloolik. In the course of the night the favourable breeze failed
+us, and on the morning of the 14th was succeeded by a southerly
+wind, the ships being close to another island called Ooglit,
+about twelve leagues to the S.S.W. of the others. We were here
+immediately visited by our old acquaintance the Esquimaux,
+several of whom came off in their canoes in the course of the
+morning, as if determined to loose no opportunity of profiting by
+us. Among these was our worthy old friend Nannow, to whom
+everybody was glad to give something; and, indeed, they all
+received as many presents as their canoes could safely carry or
+tow on shore. Their tents, nine in number were pitched on the
+main land, a little to the northward of Ooglit, at a station they
+call <i>Ag-wis-se-=o-wik</i>, of which we had often heard them
+speak at Igloolik. They now also pointed out to us Amitioke, at
+the distance of four or five leagues to the southward and
+westward, which proved to be the same piece of low land that we
+had taken for it in first coming up this coast. The Esquimaux
+told us that a number of their younger men were inland in pursuit
+of deer, and that the rest had abundant supplies of walrus, which
+animals we saw in considerable numbers about this place.</p>
+<p>We were now for some days all but beset in this neighbourhood,
+calms or light southerly and easterly breezes constantly
+prevailing. During this time the main body of ice remained, in
+most parts, close to the shore, leaving us only a "hole" of water
+to work about in, and much nearer to the land than on this shoal
+and shelving coast was altogether safe for the ships.
+Notwithstanding this, however, we had soon occasion to observe
+that they not only kept their ground, but even drew to the
+southward, owing, no doubt, to the current before found to set in
+that direction along the coast.</p>
+<p>The ice remained close the whole of the 26th; but we
+continued, as usual, to drift generally to the southward, and the
+next morning, being off Owlitteeweek, were enabled to cast off
+and make sail, the ice being rather more open than before. Being
+favoured by a commanding northerly breeze, we ran a considerable
+distance to the southward, having, however, only just room to
+sail between the points of the closely packed ice and a flat,
+dangerous shore. Without escaping for a moment, from our confined
+situation, and almost without perceiving any motion of the masses
+of ice among themselves, we had, at noon on the 30th, drifted
+down within a mile of a small island lying near the northeast
+point of Winter Island. On the 31st the tide took us through
+between these, the breadth of the passage being three quarters of
+a mile, in no less than sixteen fathoms water. We then passed
+within a dangerous reef of rocks, lying a full mile from the
+shore, and having numerous heavy masses of grounded ice upon it.
+After clearing this in a good depth of water, we were, by the
+evening, carried along shore within a mile of Cape Fisher.</p>
+<p>Thus had we, in a most singular manner, once more arrived at
+our old winter-quarters, with scarcely a single successful
+exertion on our parts towards effecting that object. The distance
+from Ooglit to our present station was about one hundred and
+sixty miles along the coast. Of this we had never <i>sailed</i>
+above forty, the rest of the distance having been accomplished,
+while we were immoveably beset, by mere drifting. The interval
+thus employed having been barely eight days, gives an average
+drift to the southward of above fifteen miles per day.</p>
+<p>In the afternoon of the 6th I was much pained at being
+informed by telegraph from the Hecla, that Mr. Fife, Greenland
+master of that ship, had just expired, an event which for some
+days past there had been but too much reason to apprehend; the
+scurvy having within the last three weeks continued to increase
+considerably upon him. It is proper for me, however, both in
+justice to the medical officers under whose skilful and humane
+care he was placed, and to the means with which we were in this
+way so liberally supplied, to state, that during a part of that
+time Mr. Fife had taken so great a dislike to the various
+antiscorbutics which were administered to him, that he could
+seldom be induced to use any of them. The disease, in
+consequence, reduced him to a state of extreme debility, which at
+length carried him off almost without pain. The Hecla being at
+the time closely beset, and in a situation of great danger among
+the shoals off Winter Island, Captain Lyon caused the remains of
+the deceased to be committed to the sea with all the solemnity
+which circumstances would permit.</p>
+<p>In the night of the 6th, the ships, which had before nearly
+closed each other, were again separated to the distance of
+several miles, though no motion was perceptible in the masses of
+ice about them. On the evening of the 11th, however, the wind at
+length began to freshen from the northwest, when the ice
+immediately commenced driving down the inlet at the rate of a
+mile an hour, carrying the Fury with it, and within half a mile
+of the rocks, the whole way down to Cape Martineau, but keeping
+her in deep water. In the mean time the Hecla had been swept into
+much more dangerous situations, passing along the east and south
+sides of Winter Island; and, after driving nearly up to
+Five-hawser Bay, being carried near some dangerous shoals about
+Cape Edwards, where Captain Lyon expected every other tide that
+she would take the ground.</p>
+<p>On the 15th, when the ships had closed each other within a
+mile, we could see the clear water from the masthead, and the
+Hecla could now have been easily extricated. Such, however, are
+the sudden changes that take place in this precarious navigation,
+that not long afterward the Fury was quite at liberty to sail out
+of the ice, while the Hecla was now, in her turn, so immoveably
+fast set, and even cemented between several very heavy masses,
+that no power that could be applied was sufficient to move her an
+inch. In this situation she remained all the 16th, without our
+being able to render her any assistance; and the frost being now
+rather severe at night, we began to consider it not improbable
+that we might yet be detained for another winter. We were
+perhaps, indeed, indebted for our escape to a strong westerly
+breeze, which blew for several hours on the 17th, when, the ice
+being sufficiently close to allow our men to walk to the
+assistance of the Hecla, we succeeded, after seven hours' hard
+labour, in forcing her into clear water, when all sail was made
+to the eastward, and our course shaped for the Trinity Islands in
+a perfectly open sea.</p>
+<p>We thus finally made our escape from the ice after having been
+almost immoveably beset in it for twenty-four days out of the
+last twenty-six, in the course of which time the ships had been
+taken over no less than one hundred and forty leagues of ground,
+generally very close to the shore, and always unable to do
+anything towards effecting their escape from danger.</p>
+<p>We made the Trinity Islands on the 18th, and ran down Hudson's
+Strait with a favourable breeze, reaching the Orkneys on the
+morning of Oct. 9th. It can scarcely, perhaps, be imagined by
+those who have not been similarly situated, with what eager
+interest one or two vessels were this day descried by us, being
+the first trace of civilized man that we had seen for the space
+of seven-and-twenty months. The breeze increasing to a fresh gale
+from the southward in the course of the night, with a heavy sea
+from the same quarter, rendering it impossible for us to make any
+progress in that direction, I determined to put into Lerwick in
+the Shetland Islands, to procure refreshments, and await a change
+in our favour. We accordingly bore up for that harbour early on
+the morning of the 10th, and at thirty minutes past ten A.M.
+anchored there, where we were immediately visited by a great
+number of the inhabitants, anxious to greet us on our return to
+our native country.</p>
+<p>I feel it utterly impossible adequately to express, the
+kindness and attention we received for the three or four days
+that we were detained in Bressay Sound by a continuance of
+unfavourable winds. On the first information of our arrival the
+bells of Lerwick were set ringing, the inhabitants flocked from
+every part of the country to express their joy at our unexpected
+return, and the town was at night illuminated, as if each
+individual had a brother or a son among us.</p>
+<p>On the 13th, a breeze springing up from the northward, we took
+leave of our kind and hospitable friends, deeply sensible of the
+cordial and affectionate reception we had experienced; and, being
+still favoured by the wind, were abreast of Buchaness the
+following evening. On the 16th, being off Whitby, I went on shore
+there, and, after receiving the cordial greetings of a great
+number of the worthy inhabitants of Whitby, who had assembled to
+meet us on landing, set off for London, and arrived at the
+Admiralty on the morning of the 18th.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name='b002'></a>
+<h2><a href='#b002_2'>THIRD VOYAGE<br>
+ FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A NORTHWEST PASSAGE.</a></h2>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c007_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c007">INTRODUCTION.</a></h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>Notwithstanding the want of success of the late expedition to
+the Polar Seas, it was resolved to make another attempt to effect
+a passage by sea, between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. The
+chief alterations in the equipment of the present expedition
+consisted in the placing of Sylvester's warming stove in the very
+bottom of the ship's hold, in substituting a small quantity of
+salt beef for a part of the pork, and in furnishing a much larger
+supply of newly corned beef. Preserved carrots and parsnips,
+salmon, cream, pickles of onions, beet-root, cabbage, and, to
+make the most of our stowage, <i>split</i> peas, instead of whole
+ones, were supplied. A small quantity of beef pemmican, made by
+pounding the meat with a certain portion of fat, as described by
+Captain Franklin, was also furnished.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c008_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c008">CHAPTER I.</a></h2>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>Passage to the Whale-fish Islands, and Removal of Stores from
+the Transport.&mdash;Enter the Ice in Baffin's
+Bay.&mdash;Difficulties of Penetrating to the
+Westward.&mdash;Quit the Ice in Baffin's Bay.&mdash;Remarks on
+the Obstructions encountered by the Ships, and on the Severity of
+the Season.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p>The equipment of the Hecla and Fury, and the loading of the
+William Harris transport, being completed, we began to move down
+the river from Deptford on the 8th of May, 1824, and on the 10th,
+by the assistance of the steamboat, the three ships had reached
+Northfleet, where they received their powder and their ordnance
+stores.</p>
+<p>Early on the morning of the 3d of July, the whole of our
+stores being removed, and Lieutenant Pritchard having received
+his orders, together with our despatches and letters for England,
+the William Harris weighed with a light wind from the northward,
+and was towed out to sea by our boats.</p>
+<p>Light northerly winds, together with the dull sailing of our
+now deeply-laden ships, prevented our making much progress for
+several days, and kept us in the neighbourhood of numerous
+icebergs, which it is dangerous to approach when there is any
+swell. We counted from the deck, at one time, no less than one
+hundred and three of these immense bodies, some of them from one
+to two hundred feet in height above the sea; and it was
+necessary, in one or two instances, to tow the ships clear of
+them with the boats.</p>
+<p>From this time, indeed, the obstructions from the quantity,
+magnitude, and closeness of the ice were such as to keep our
+people almost constantly employed in heaving, warping, or sawing
+through it; and yet with so little success, that, at the close of
+the month of July, we had only penetrated seventy miles to the
+westward, or the longitude of about 62&deg; 10'.</p>
+<p><i>Sept</i>. 9th.&mdash;I shall, doubtless, be readily excused
+for not having entered in this journal a detailed narrative of
+the obstacles we met with, and of the unwearied exertions of the
+officers and men to overcome them, during the tedious eight weeks
+employed in crossing this barrier.</p>
+<p>The constant besetment of the ships, and our daily
+observations for latitude and longitude, afforded a favourable
+opportunity for ascertaining precisely the set of any currents by
+which the whole body of ice might be actuated. By attending very
+carefully to all the circumstances, it was evident that a daily
+set to the southward obtained when the wind was northerly,
+differing in amount from two or three, to eight or ten miles per
+day, according to the strength of the breeze; but a northerly
+current was equally apparent, and fully to the same amount,
+whenever the wind blew from the southward. A circumstance more
+remarkable than these, however, forced itself strongly upon my
+notice at this time, which was, that a <i>westerly</i> set was
+very frequently apparent, even against a fresh breeze blowing
+from that quarter. I mention the circumstance in this place,
+because I may hereafter have to offer a remark or two on this
+fact, in connexion with some others of a similar nature noticed
+elsewhere.</p>
+<p>With respect to the dimensions of the ice through which we had
+now scrambled our way, principally by warping and towing, a
+distance of between three and four hundred miles, I remarked that
+it for the most part increased, as well in the thickness as the
+extent of the floes, as we advanced westward about the parallel
+of 71&deg;. During our subsequent progress to the north, we also
+met with some of enormous dimensions, several of the floes, to
+which we applied our hawsers and the power of the improved
+capstan, being at their margin more than twenty feet above the
+level of the sea; and over some of these we could not see from
+the masthead. Upon the whole, however, the magnitude of the ice
+became somewhat less towards the northwest, and within thirty
+miles of that margin the masses were comparatively small, and
+their thickness much diminished. Bergs were in sight during the
+whole passage, but they were more numerous towards the middle of
+the "pack," and rather the most so to the southward.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c009_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c009">CHAPTER II.</a></h2>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>Enter Sir James Lancaster's Sound.&mdash;Land at Cape
+Warrender.&mdash;Meet with young Ice.&mdash;Ships beset and
+carried near the Shore.&mdash;Driven back to Navy-board
+Inlet.&mdash;Run to the Westward, and enter Prince Regent's
+Inlet.&mdash;Arrival at Port Bowen.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p>All our past obstacles were in a moment forgotten when we once
+more saw an open sea before us; but it must be confessed that it
+was not so easy to forget that the middle of September was
+already near at hand, without having brought us even to the
+entrance of Sir James Lancaster's Sound. That not a moment might
+be lost, however, in pushing to the westward, a press of canvass
+was crowded, and, being happily favoured with an easterly breeze,
+on the morning of Sept. 10th we caught a glimpse of the high bold
+land on the north side of the magnificent inlet up which our
+course was once more to be directed. From the time of our leaving
+the main body of ice, we met with none of any kind, and the
+entrance to the Sound was, as usual, entirely free from it,
+except here and there a berg, floating about in that solitary
+grandeur, of which these enormous masses, when occurring in the
+midst of an extensive sea, are calculated to convey so sublime an
+idea.</p>
+<p>On the morning of the 12th we were once more favoured with a
+breeze from the eastward, but so light and unsteady that our
+progress was vexatiously slow; and on the 13th, when within seven
+leagues of Cape York, we had the mortification to perceive the
+sea ahead of us covered with young ice, the thermometer having,
+for two days past, ranged only from 18&deg; to 20&deg;.</p>
+<p>The next breeze sprung up from the westward, drawing also from
+the southward, at times, out of Prince Regent's Inlet, and for
+three days we were struggling with the young ice to little or no
+purpose, now and then gaining half a mile of ground to windward
+in a little "hole" of open water, then losing as much by the
+necessity of bearing up or wearing (for the ice was too strong to
+allow us to tack), sallying from morning to night with all hands,
+and with the watch at night, two boats constantly under the bows;
+and, after all, rather losing ground than otherwise, while the
+young ice was every hour increasing in thickness.</p>
+<p>Towards sunset on the 17th we became more and more hampered,
+and were eventually beset during the night. The sea was covered
+with ice between us and the shore, all of this year's formation,
+but now of considerable thickness and formidable appearance. The
+wind continuing strong, the whole body was constantly pressed in
+upon the land, bearing the ships along with it, and doubling one
+sheet over another, sometimes to a hundred thicknesses. We
+quickly shoaled the water from seventy to forty fathoms, the
+latter depth occurring about a mile from the beach; and after
+this we drifted but little, the ice being blocked up between the
+point and a high perpendicular berg lying aground off it.</p>
+<p>Under such circumstances, it evidently became expedient to
+endeavour, by sawing, to get the ships as close in-shore as
+possible, so as to secure them either to grounded ice, or by
+anchoring within the shelter of a bay at no great distance inside
+of us; for it now seemed not unlikely that winter was about to
+put a premature stop to all farther operations at sea for this
+season. At all events, it was necessary to consult the immediate
+safety of the ships, and to keep them from being drifted back to
+the eastward. I therefore gave orders for endeavouring to get the
+ships in towards the bay, by cutting through what level floes
+still remained. So strong had been the pressure while the ice was
+forcing in upon us, that on the 20th, after liberating the Hecla
+on one side, she was as firmly cemented to it on the other, as
+after a winter's formation; and we could only clear her by heavy
+and repeated "sallying." After cutting in two or three hundred
+yards, while the people were at dinner on the 21st, our canal
+closed by the external pressure coming upon the parts which we
+had weakened, and in a few minutes the whole was once more in
+motion, or, as the seamen not inaptly expressed it, "alive," mass
+doubling under mass, and raising those which were uppermost to a
+considerable height. The ice thus pressed together was now about
+ten feet in thickness in some places, and on an average not less
+than four or five, so that, while thus forced in upon a ship,
+although soft in itself, it caused her to tremble exceedingly; a
+sensation, indeed, commonly experienced in forcing through young
+ice of considerable thickness. We were now once more obliged to
+be quiet spectators of what was going on around us, having, with
+extreme difficulty, succeeded in saving most of our tools that
+were lying on the ice when the squeezing suddenly began.</p>
+<p>A sudden motion of the ice, on the morning of the 22d,
+occasioned by a change of the wind to the S.E., threatened to
+carry us directly off the land. It was now, more than ever,
+desirable to hold on, as this breeze was likely to clear the
+shore, and, at the same time, to give us a run to the westward.
+Hawsers were therefore run out to the land-ice, composed of some
+heavy masses, almost on the beach. With the Hecla this succeeded,
+but the Fury being much farther from the shore, soon began to
+move out with the whole body of ice, which, carrying her close to
+the large berg off the point, swept her round the latter, where,
+after great exertion, Captain Hoppner succeeded in getting clear,
+and then made sail to beat back to us. In the mean time the
+strain put upon the Hecla's hawsers being too great for them,
+they snapped one after another, and a bower-anchor was let go as
+a last resource. It was one of Hawkins's, with the double fluke,
+and immediately brought up, not merely the ship, but a large floe
+of young ice which had just broken our stream-cable. All hands
+were sent upon the floe to cut it up ahead, and the whole
+operation was a novel, and, at times, a fearful one; for the ice,
+being weakened by the cutting, would suddenly gather fresh way
+astern, carrying men and tools with it, while the chain cable
+continued to plough through it in a manner which gave one the
+idea of something alive, and continually renewing its attacks.
+The anchor held surprisingly; and after this tremendous strain
+had been put upon it for above an hour, we had fairly cut the
+floe in two, and the ship was riding in clear water about half a
+mile from the shore.</p>
+<p>I was in hopes we should make some progress, for a large
+channel of clear water was left open in-shore; a breeze blew off
+the land, and the temperature of the atmosphere had again risen
+considerably. We had not sailed five miles, however, when a
+westerly wind took us aback, and a most dangerous swell set
+directly upon the shore, obliging me immediately to stand off the
+land; and the Fury being still to the eastward of the point, I
+ran round it in order to rejoin her before sunset.</p>
+<p>After midnight on the 27th the wind began to moderate, and, by
+degrees, also drew more to the southward than before. At
+daylight, therefore, we found ourselves seven or eight miles from
+the land; but no ice was in sight, except the "sludge," of
+honey-like consistence, with which almost the whole sea was
+covered. A strong blink, extending along the eastern horizon,
+pointed out the position of the main body of ice, which was
+farther distant from the eastern shore of the inlet than I ever
+saw it. Being assisted by a fine working breeze, which, at the
+same time, prevented the formation of any more ice to obstruct
+us, we made considerable progress along the land, and at noon
+were nearly abreast of Jackson Inlet, which we now saw to be
+considerably larger than our distant view of it on the former
+voyage had led us to suppose. A few more tacks brought us to the
+entrance of Port Bowen, which, for two or three days past, I had
+determined to make our wintering-place, if, as there was but
+little reason to expect, we should be so fortunate as to push the
+ships thus far. Beating up, therefore, to Port Bowen, we found it
+filled with "old" and "hummocky" ice, attached to the shores on
+both sides, as low down as about three-quarters of a mile below
+Stony Island. Here we made fast in sixty-two fathoms water,
+running our hawsers far in upon the ice, in case of its breaking
+off at the margin.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c010_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c010">CHAPTER III.</a></h2>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>Winter Arrangements.&mdash;Improvements in Warming and
+Ventilating the Ships.&mdash;Masquerades adopted as an Amusement
+to the Men.&mdash;Establishment of Schools.&mdash;Astronomical
+Observations.&mdash;Meteorological Phenomena.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p><i>Oct</i>.&mdash;Our present winter arrangements so closely
+resembled, in general, those before adopted, that a fresh
+description of them would prove little more than a repetition of
+that already contained in the narratives of our former
+voyages.</p>
+<p>To those who read, as well as to those who describe, the
+account of a winter passed in these regions can no longer be
+expected to afford the interest of novelty it once possessed;
+more especially in a station already delineated with tolerable
+geographical precision on our maps, and thus, as it were, brought
+near to our firesides at home. Independently, indeed, of this
+circumstance, it is hard to conceive any one thing more like
+another than two winters passed in the higher latitudes of the
+Polar Regions, except when variety happens to be afforded by
+intercourse with some other branch of "the whole family of man."
+Winter after winter, nature here assumes an aspect so much alike,
+that cursory observation can scarcely detect a single feature of
+variety. The winter of more temperate climates, and even in some
+of no slight severity, is occasionally diversified by a thaw,
+which at once gives variety and comparative cheerfulness to the
+prospect. But here, when once the earth is covered, all is
+dreary, monotonous whiteness; not merely for days or weeks, but
+for more than half a year together. Whichever way the eye is
+turned, it meets a picture calculated to impress upon the mind an
+idea of inanimate stillness, of that motionless torpor with which
+our feelings have nothing congenial; of anything, in short, but
+life. In the very silence there is a deadness with which a human
+spectator appears <i>out of keeping</i>. The presence of man
+seems an intrusion on the dreary solitude of this wintry desert,
+which even its native animals have for a while forsaken.</p>
+<p>I am persuaded, therefore, that I shall be excused in sparing
+the dulness of another winter's diary, and confining myself
+exclusively to those facts which appear to possess any scientific
+interest, to the few incidents which <i>did</i> diversify our
+confinement, and to such remarks as may contribute to the health
+and comfort of any future sojourners in these dreary regions.</p>
+<p>It may well be supposed that, in this climate, the principal
+desideratum which art is called upon to furnish for the promotion
+of health, is warmth, as well in the external air as in the
+inhabited apartments. Exposure to a cold atmosphere, <i>when the
+body is well clothed</i>, produces no bad effect whatever beyond
+a frostbitten cheek, nose, or finger. As for any injury to
+healthy lungs from the breathing of cold air, or from sudden
+changes from this into a warm atmosphere, or <i>vice versa</i>,
+it may with much confidence be asserted that, with due attention
+to external clothing, there is nothing in this respect to be
+apprehended. This inference, at least, would appear legitimate,
+from the fact that our crews, consisting of one hundred and
+twenty persons, have for four winters been constantly undergoing,
+for months together, a change of from eighty to a hundred degrees
+of temperature, in the space of time required for opening two
+doors (perhaps less than half a minute), without incurring any
+pulmonary complaints at all.</p>
+<p>In speaking of the external clothing sufficient for health in
+this climate, it must be confessed that, in severe exposure,
+quite a <i>load</i> of woollen clothes, even of the best quality,
+is insufficient to retain a comfortable degree of warmth; a
+strong breeze carrying it off so rapidly, that the sensation is
+that of the cold piercing through the body. A jacket made very
+long, like those called by seamen "pea-jackets," and lined with
+fur throughout, would be more effectual than twice the weight of
+woollen clothes, and is, indeed, almost weather-proof. For the
+prevention of lumbago, to which our seamen are especially liable,
+from their well-known habit of leaving their loins imperfectly
+clothed, every man should be strictly obliged to wear, under his
+outer clothes, a canvass belt a foot broad, lined with flannel,
+and having straps to go over the shoulder.<a name=
+'FNanchor_006_6'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_006_6'><sup>[006]</sup></a></p>
+<p>It is certain, however, that no precautions in clothing are
+sufficient to maintain health during a Polar winter, without a
+due degree of warmth in the apartments we inhabit. Most persons
+are apt to associate with the idea of warmth, something like the
+comfort derived from a good fire on a winter's evening at home;
+but in these regions the case is inconceivably different: here it
+is not simple comfort, but health, and, therefore, ultimately
+life, that depends upon it. The want of a constant supply of
+warmth is here immediately followed by a condensation of all the
+moisture, whether from the breath, victuals, or other sources,
+into abundant drops of water, very rapidly forming on all the
+coldest parts of the deck. A still lower temperature modifies,
+and perhaps improves, the annoyance by converting it into ice,
+which again an occasional increase of warmth dissolves into
+water. Nor is this the amount of the evil, though it is the only
+visible part of it; for not only is a moist atmosphere thus
+incessantly kept up, but it is rendered stagnant also by the want
+of that ventilation which warmth alone can furnish. With an
+apartment in this state, the men's clothes and bedding are
+continually in a moist and unwholesome condition, generating a
+deleterious air, which there is no circulation to carry off; and,
+whenever these circumstances combine for any length of time
+together, so surely may the scurvy, to say nothing of other
+diseases, be confidently expected to exhibit itself.</p>
+<p>Every attention was, as usual, paid to the occupation and
+diversion of the men's minds, as well as to the regularity of
+their bodily exercise. Our former amusements being almost worn
+threadbare, it required some ingenuity to devise any plan that
+should possess the charm of novelty to recommend it. This purpose
+was completely answered by a proposal of Captain Hoppner, to
+attempt a <i>masquerade</i>, in which officers and men should
+alike take a part, but which, without imposing any restraint
+whatever, would leave every one to his own choice whether to join
+in this diversion or not. It is impossible that any idea could
+have proved more happy, or more exactly suited to our situation.
+Admirably dressed characters of various descriptions readily took
+their parts, and many of these were supported with a degree of
+spirit and genuine humour which would not have disgraced a more
+refined assembly; while the latter might not have disdained, and
+would not have been disgraced by, copying the good order,
+decorum, and inoffensive cheerfulness which our humble masquerade
+presented. It does especial credit to the dispositions and good
+sense of our men, that, though all the officers entered fully
+into the spirit of these amusements, which took place once a
+month, no instance occurred of anything that could interfere with
+the regular discipline, or at all weaken the respect of the men
+towards their superiors. Ours were masquerades without
+licentiousness; carnivals without excess.</p>
+<p>But an occupation not less assiduously pursued, and of
+infinitely more eventual benefit, was furnished by the
+re-establishment of our schools, under the voluntary
+superintendence of my friend Mr. Hooper in the Hecla, and of Mr.
+Mogg in the Fury. By the judicious zeal of Mr. Hooper, the
+Hecla's school was made subservient, not merely to the
+improvement of the men in reading and writing (in which, however,
+their progress was surprisingly great), but also to the
+cultivation of that religious feeling which so essentially
+improves the character of a seaman, by furnishing the highest
+motives for increased attention to every other duty. Nor was the
+benefit confined to the eighteen or twenty individuals whose want
+of scholarship brought them to the school-table, but extended
+itself to the rest of the ship's company, making the whole
+lower-deck such a scene of quiet rational occupation as I never
+before saw on board a ship. And I do not speak lightly when I
+express my thorough persuasion, that to the moral effects thus
+produced upon the minds of the men, were owing, in a very high
+degree, the constant yet sober cheerfulness, the uninterrupted
+good order, and even, in some measure, the extraordinary state of
+health which prevailed among us during this winter.</p>
+<p>The extreme facility with which sounds are heard at a
+considerable distance in severely cold weather, has often been a
+subject of remark; but a circumstance occurred at Port Bowen
+which deserves to be noticed, as affording a sort of measure of
+this facility, or, at least, conveying to others some definite
+idea of the fact. Lieutenant Foster having occasion to send a man
+from the observatory to the opposite shore of the harbour, a
+measured distance of 6696 feet, or about one statute mile and two
+tenths, in order to fix a meridian mark, had placed a second
+person half way between, to repeat his directions; but he found,
+on trial, that this precaution was unnecessary, as he could,
+without difficulty, keep up a conversation with the man at the
+distant station. The thermometer was at this time-18&deg;, the
+barometer 30.14 inches, and the weather nearly calm, and quite
+clear and serene.</p>
+<p>About one o'clock on the morning of the 23d February, the
+Aurora appeared over the hills in a south direction, presenting a
+brilliant mass of light. The rolling motion of the light
+laterally was very striking, as well as the increase of its
+intensity thus occasioned. The light occupied horizontally about
+a point of the compass, and extended in height scarcely a degree
+above the land, which seemed, however, to conceal from us a part
+of the phenomenon. It was always evident enough that the most
+attenuated light of the Aurora sensibly dimmed the stars, like a
+thin veil drawn over them. We frequently listened for any sound
+proceeding from this phenomenon, but never heard any. Our
+variation needles, which were extremely light, suspended in the
+most delicate manner, and, from the weak directive energy,
+susceptible of being acted upon by a very slight disturbing
+force, were never, in a single instance, sensibly affected by the
+Aurora, which could scarcely fail to have been observed at some
+time or other, had any such disturbance taken place, the needles
+being visited every hour for several months, and oftener when
+anything occurred to make it desirable.</p>
+<p>The meteors called falling stars were much more frequent
+during this winter than we ever before saw them, and particularly
+during the month of December.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c011_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c011">CHAPTER IV.</a></h2>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>Re-equipment of the Ships.&mdash;Several Journeys
+undertaken.&mdash;Open Water in the Offing.&mdash;Commence sawing
+a Canal to liberate the Ships.&mdash;Disruption of the
+Ice.&mdash;Departure from Port Bowen.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p>The height of the land about Port Bowen deprived us longer
+than usual of the sun's presence above our horizon. Some of our
+gentlemen, indeed, who ascended a high hill for the purpose,
+caught a glimpse of him on the 2d of February; on the 15th it
+became visible at the observatory, but at the ships not till the
+22d, after an absence of one hundred and twenty-one days. It is
+very long after the sun's reappearance in these regions, however,
+that the effect of his rays, as to warmth, becomes perceptible;
+week passes after week, with scarcely any rise in the thermometer
+except for an hour or two during the day; and it is at this
+period more than any other, perhaps, that the lengthened duration
+of a Polar winter's cold is most wearisome, and creates the most
+impatience. Towards the third week in March, thin flakes of snow
+lying upon black painted wood or metal, and exposed to the sun's
+direct rays in a sheltered situation, readily melted. In the
+second week of April any very light covering of sand or ashes
+upon the snow close to the ships might be observed to make its
+way downward into holes; but a coat of sand laid upon the
+unsheltered ice, to the distance of about two thirds of a mile,
+for dissolving a canal to hasten our liberation, produced no such
+sensible effect till the beginning of May. Even then the
+dissolution was very trifling till about the first week in June,
+when pools of water began to make their appearance, and not long
+after this a small boat would have floated down it. On shore the
+effect is, in general, still more tardy, though some deception is
+there occasioned by the dissolution of the snow next the ground,
+while its upper surface is to all appearance undergoing little or
+no change. Thus a greater alteration is sometimes produced in the
+aspect of the land by a single warm day in an advanced part of
+the season, than in many weeks preceding, in consequence of the
+last crust of snow being dissolved, leaving the ground at length
+entirely bare. We could now perceive the snow beginning to leave
+the stones from day to day, as early as the last week in April.
+Towards the end of May a great deal of snow was dissolved daily;
+but, owing to the porous nature of the ground, which absorbed it
+as fast as it was formed, it was not easy to procure water for
+drinking on shore, even as late as the 10th of June. In the
+ravines, however, it could be heard trickling under stones before
+that time; and about the 18th, many considerable streams were
+formed, and constantly running both night and day. After this the
+thawing proceeded at an inconceivably rapid rate, the whole
+surface of the floes being covered with large pools of water
+rapidly increasing in size and depth.</p>
+<p>The animals seen at Port Bowen may now be briefly noticed. The
+principal of these seen during the winter were bears, of which we
+killed twelve from October to June, being more than during all
+the other voyages taken together; and several others were seen.
+One of these animals was near proving fatal to a seaman of the
+Fury, who, having straggled from his companions, when at the top
+of a high hill saw a large bear coming towards him. Being
+unarmed, he prudently made off, taking off his boots to enable
+him to run the faster, but not so prudently precipitated himself
+over an almost perpendicular cliff, down which he was said to
+have rolled or fallen several hundred feet; here he was met by
+some of the people in so lacerated a condition as to be in a very
+dangerous state for some time after.</p>
+<p>A she-bear, killed in the open water on our first arrival at
+Port Bowen, afforded a striking instance of maternal affection in
+her anxiety to save her two cubs. She might herself easily have
+escaped the boat, but would not forsake her young, which she was
+actually "towing" off, by allowing them to rest on her back, when
+the boat came near them. A second similar instance occurred in
+the spring, when two cubs having got down into a large crack in
+the ice, their mother placed herself before them, so as to secure
+them from the attacks of our people, which she might easily have
+avoided herself.</p>
+<p>One or two foxes (<i>Canis Lagopus</i>) were killed, and four
+caught in traps during the winter, weighing from four pounds and
+three quarters to three pounds and three quarters. The colour of
+one of these animals, which lived for some time on board the
+Fury, and became tolerably tame, was nearly pure white till the
+month of May, when he shed his winter coat, and became of a dirty
+chocolate colour, with two or three light brown spots. Only three
+hares (<i>Lepus Variabilis</i>) were killed from October to June,
+weighing from six to eight pounds and three quarters. Their fur
+was extremely thick, soft, and of the most beautiful whiteness
+imaginable. We saw no deer near Port Bowen at any season, neither
+were we visited by their enemies the wolves. A single ermine and
+a few mice (<i>Mus Hudsonius</i>) complete, I believe, our scanty
+list of quadrupeds at this desolate and unproductive place.</p>
+<p>Towards the end of June, the dovekies (<i>Colymbus Grylle</i>)
+were extremely numerous in the cracks of the ice at the entrance
+of Port Bowen; and as these were the only fresh supply of any
+consequence that we were able to procure at this unproductive
+place, we were glad to permit the men to go out occasionally with
+guns, after the ships were ready for sea, to obtain for their
+messes this wholesome change of diet; while such excursions also
+contributed essentially to their general health and cheerfulness.
+Many hundreds of these birds were thus obtained in the course of
+a few days. On the evening of the 6th of July, however, I was
+greatly shocked at being informed by Captain Hoppner that John
+Cotterell,<a name='FNanchor_007_7'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_007_7'><sup>[007]</sup></a> a seaman of the Fury, had
+been found drowned in one of the cracks of the ice by two other
+men belonging to the same party, who had been with him but a few
+minutes before. We could never ascertain precisely in what manner
+this accident happened, but it was supposed that he must have
+overreached himself in stooping for a bird that he had killed.
+His remains were committed to the earth on Sunday the 10th, with
+every solemnity which the occasion demanded, and our situation
+would allow; and a tomb of stones, with a suitable inscription,
+was afterward erected over the grave.</p>
+<p>In order to obtain oil for another winter's consumption,
+before the ships could be released from the ice, and our
+travelling parties having seen a number of black whales in the
+open water to the northward, two boats from each ship were, with
+considerable labour, transported four miles along shore in that
+direction, to be in readiness for killing a whale and boiling the
+oil on the beach, whenever the open water should approach
+sufficiently near. Notwithstanding these preparations, however,
+it was vexatious to find that on the 9th of July the water was
+still three miles distant from the boats, and at least seven from
+Port Bowen. On the 12th, the ice in our neighbourhood began to
+detach itself, and the boats, under the command of Lieutenants
+Sherer and Ross, being launched on the following day, succeeded
+almost immediately in killing a small whale of "five feet bone,"
+exactly answering our purpose. Almost at the same time, and, as
+it turned out, very opportunely, the ice at the mouth of our
+harbour detached itself at an old crack, and drifted off, leaving
+only about one mile and a quarter between us and the sea. Half of
+this distance being occupied by the gravelled canal, which was
+dissolved quite through the ice in many parts, and had become
+very thin in all, every officer and man in both ships were set to
+work without delay to commence a fresh canal from the open water
+to communicate with the other. This work proved heavier than we
+expected, the ice being generally from five to eight feet, and in
+many places from ten to eleven in thickness. It was continued,
+however, with the greatest cheerfulness and alacrity from seven
+in the morning till seven in the evening daily, the dinner being
+prepared on the ice, and eaten under the lee of a studding sail
+erected as a tent.</p>
+<p>On the afternoon of the 19th, a very welcome stop was put to
+our operations by the separation of the floe entirely across the
+harbour, and about one third from the ships to where we were at
+work. All hands being instantly recalled by signal, were, on
+their return, set to work to get the ships into the gravelled
+canal, and to saw away what still remained in it to prevent our
+warping to sea. This work, with only half an hour's intermission
+for the men's supper, was continued till half past six the
+following morning, when we succeeded in getting clear. The
+weather being calm, two hours were occupied in towing the ships
+to sea, and thus the officers and men were employed at a very
+laborious work for twenty-six hours, during which time there
+were, on one occasion, fifteen of them overboard at once; and,
+indeed, several individuals met with the same accident three
+times. It was impossible, however, to regret the necessity of
+these comparatively trifling exertions, especially as it was now
+evident that to saw our way out without any canal would have
+required at least a fortnight of heavy and fatiguing labour.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c012_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c012">CHAPTER V.</a></h2>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>Sail over towards the Western Coast of Prince Regent's
+Inlet.&mdash;Stopped by the Ice.&mdash;Reach the Shore about Cape
+Seppings.&mdash;Favourable Progress along the Land.&mdash;Fresh
+and repeated Obstructions from Ice.&mdash;Both Ships driven on
+Shore.&mdash;Fury seriously damaged.&mdash;Unsuccessful Search
+for a Harbour for heaving her down to repair.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p><i>July</i> 20.&mdash;On standing out to sea, we sailed, with
+a light southerly wind, towards the western shore of Prince
+Regent's Inlet, which it was my first wish to gain, on account of
+the evident advantage to be derived from coasting the southern
+part of that portion of land called in the chart "North
+Somerset," as far as it might lead to the westward; which, from
+our former knowledge, we had reason to suppose it would do as far
+at least as the longitude of 95&deg;, in the parallel of about
+72-3/4&ordm;. After sailing about eight miles, we were stopped by
+a body of close ice lying between us and a space of open water
+beyond. We were shortly after enveloped in one of the thick fogs
+which had, for several weeks past, been observed almost daily
+hanging over some part of the sea in the offing, though we had
+scarcely experienced any in Port Bowen until the water became
+open at the mouth of the harbour.</p>
+<p>On the clearing up of the fog on the 21st, we could perceive
+no opening of the ice leading towards the western land, nor any
+appearance of the smallest channel to the southward along the
+eastern shore. I was determined, therefore, to try at once a
+little farther to the northward, the present state of the ice
+appearing completely to accord with that observed in 1819, its
+breadth increasing as we advanced from Prince Leopold's Islands
+to the southward.</p>
+<p>Light winds detained us very much, but, being at length
+favoured by a breeze, we carried all sail to the northwest, the
+ice very gradually leading us towards the Leopold Isles. Having
+arrived off the northernmost on the morning of the 22nd, it was
+vexatious, however curious, to observe the exact coincidence of
+the present position of the ice with that which it occupied a
+little later in the year 1819. The whole body of it seemed to
+cling to the western shore, as if held there by some strong
+attraction, forbidding, for the present, any access to it. After
+running all night, with light and variable winds, through loose
+and scattered ice, we suddenly found ourselves, on the clearing
+up of a thick fog through which we had been sailing on the
+morning of the 24th, within one third of a mile of Cape Seppings,
+the land just appearing above the fog in time to save us from
+danger, the soundings being thirty-eight fathoms, on a rocky
+bottom. The Fury being apprized by guns of our situation, both
+ships were hauled off the land, and the fog soon after
+dispersing, we had the satisfaction to perceive that the late
+gale had blown the ice off the land, leaving us a fine navigable
+channel from one to two miles wide, as far as we could see from
+the masthead along the shore. We were able to avail ourselves of
+this but slowly, however, in consequence of a light southerly
+breeze still blowing against us.</p>
+<p>The land here, when closely viewed, assumes a very striking,
+and magnificent character; the strata of limestone, which are
+numerous and quite horizontally disposed, being much more regular
+than on the eastern shore of Prince Regent's Inlet, and retaining
+nearly their whole perpendicular height of six or seven hundred
+feet close to the sea. I may here remark, that the whole of
+Barrow's Strait, as far as we could see to the N.N.E. of the
+islands, was entirely free from ice; and, from whatever
+circumstance it may proceed, I do not think that this part of the
+Polar Sea is at any season very much encumbered with it.</p>
+<p>It was the general feeling at this period among us, that the
+voyage had but now commenced. The labours of a bad summer, and
+the tedium of a long winter, were forgotten in a moment when we
+found ourselves upon ground not hitherto explored, and with every
+apparent prospect before us of making as rapid a progress as the
+nature of this navigation will permit, towards the final
+accomplishment of our object.</p>
+<p>A breeze enabling us again to make some progress, and an open
+channel still favouring us, of nearly the same breadth as before,
+we passed, during the night of the 25th, a second bay, about the
+same size as the other, and also appearing open to the sea; it
+lies in latitude (by account from the preceding and following
+noon) 73&deg; 19' 30", and its width is one mile and a half. We
+now perceived that the ice closed completely in with the land a
+short distance beyond us; and, having made all the way we could,
+were obliged to stand off and on during the day in a channel not
+three quarters of a mile wide.</p>
+<p>A light southerly breeze on the morning of the 28th gradually
+cleared the shore, and a fresh wind from the N.W. then
+immediately succeeded. We instantly took advantage of this
+circumstance, and, casting off at six A.M., ran eight or nine
+miles without obstruction, when we were stopped by the ice,
+which, in a closely packed and impenetrable body, stretched close
+into the shore as far as the eye could reach from the crow's
+nest. Being anxious to gain every foot of distance that we could,
+and perceiving some grounded ice which appeared favourable for
+making fast to, just at a point where the clear water terminated,
+the ships were run to the utmost extent of it, and a boat
+prepared from each to examine the water at the intended anchoring
+place. Just as I was about to leave the Hecla for that purpose,
+the ice was observed, to be in rapid motion towards the shore.
+The Fury was immediately hauled in by some grounded masses, and
+placed to the best advantage; but the Hecla, being more advanced,
+was immediately beset in spite of every exertion, and, after
+breaking two of the largest ice-anchors in endeavouring to heave
+in to the shore, was obliged to drift with the ice, several
+masses of which had fortunately interposed themselves between us
+and the land. The ice slackening around us a little in the
+evening, we were enabled, with considerable labour, to get to
+some grounded masses, where we lay much exposed, as the Fury also
+did. In this situation, our latitude being 72&deg; 51' 51", we
+saw a comparatively low point of land three or four leagues to
+the southward, which proved to be near that which terminated our
+view of this coast in 1819.</p>
+<p>The ice opening for a mile and a half alongshore on the 30th,
+we shifted the Hecla's berth about that distance to the
+southward, chiefly to be enabled to see more distinctly round a
+point which before obstructed our view, though our situation as
+regarded the security of the ship was much altered for the worse.
+In the afternoon it blew a hard gale, with constant rain, from
+the northward, the clouds indicating an easterly wind in other
+parts. This wind, which was always the troublesome one to us,
+soon brought the ice closer and closer, till it pressed with very
+considerable violence on both ships, though the most upon the
+Fury, which lay in a very exposed situation. Early on the morning
+of the 31st, as soon as a communication could be effected,
+Captain Hoppner sent to inform me that the Fury had been forced
+on the ground, where she still lay; but that she would probably
+be hove off without much difficulty at high water, provided the
+external ice did not prevent it. A large party of hands from the
+Hecla being sent round to the Fury towards high water, she came
+off the ground with very little strain, so that, upon the whole,
+considering the situation in which the ships were lying, we
+thought ourselves fortunate in having incurred no very serious
+injury. A shift of wind to the southward in the afternoon at
+length began gradually to slacken it, but it was not till six
+A.M. on the 1st of August that there appeared a prospect of
+making any progress. The signal to that effect was immediately
+made; but, while the sails were setting, the ice, which had at
+first been three quarters of a mile distant from us, was observed
+to be closing the shore The ships were cast with all expedition,
+in hopes of gaining the broader channel before the ice had time
+to shut us up. So rapid, however, was the latter in this its
+sudden movement, that we had but just got the ships' heads the
+right way when the ice came boldly in upon us, being doubtless
+set in motion by a very sudden freshening of the wind almost to a
+gale in the course of a few minutes. The ships were now almost
+instantly beset, and in such a manner as to be literally helpless
+and unmanageable.</p>
+<p>The sails were, however, kept set; and, as the body of ice was
+setting to the southward withal, we went with it some little
+distance in that direction. The Hecla, after thus driving, and
+now and then forcing her way through the ice, in all about three
+quarters of a mile, quite close to the shore, at length struck
+the ground forcibly several times in the space of a hundred
+yards, and being then brought up by it, remained immoveable, the
+depth of water under her keel abaft being sixteen feet, or about
+a foot less than she drew. The Fury, continuing to drive, was now
+irresistibly carried past us, and we escaped, only by a few feet,
+the damage invariably occasioned by ships coming in contact under
+such circumstances. She had, however, scarcely passed us a
+hundred yards, when it was evident, by the ice pressing her in,
+as well as along the shore, that she must soon be stopped like
+the Hecla; and having gone about two hundred yards farther, she
+was observed to receive a severe pressure from a large floe-piece
+forcing her directly against a grounded mass of ice upon the
+beach. After setting to the southward for an hour or two longer,
+the ice became stationary, no open water being anywhere visible
+from the masthead, and the pressure on the ships remaining
+undiminished during the day. Just as I had ascertained the utter
+impossibility of moving the Hecla a single foot, and that she
+must lie aground fore and aft as soon as the tide fell, I
+received a note from Captain Hoppner, informing me that the Fury
+had been so severely "nipped" and strained as to leak a good
+deal, apparently about four inches an hour; that she was still
+heavily pressed both upon the ground and against the large mass
+of ice within her; that the rudder was at present very awkwardly
+situated; and that one boat had been much damaged. However, about
+high water, the ice very opportunely slacking, the Hecla was hove
+off with great ease, and warped to a floe in the offing, to which
+we made fast at midnight. The Fury was not long after us in
+coming off the ground, when I was in hopes of finding that any
+twist or strain by which her leaks might have been occasioned,
+would, in some measure, close when she was relieved from pressure
+and once more fairly afloat. My disappointment and mortification,
+therefore, may in some measure be imagined, at being informed by
+telegraph, about two A.M. on the 2d, that the water was gaining
+on two pumps, and that a part of the doubling had floated up.
+Presently after, perceiving from the masthead something like a
+small harbour nearly abreast of us, every effort was made to get
+once more towards the shore. In this the ice happily favoured us;
+and, after making sail, and one or two tacks, we got in with the
+land, when I left the ship in a boat to sound the place and
+search for shelter. The whole shore was more or less lined with
+grounded masses of ice; but, after examining the soundings within
+more than twenty of them, in the space of about a mile, I could
+only find two that would allow the ships to float at low water,
+and that by some care in placing and keeping them there. Having
+fixed a flag on each berg, the usual signal for the ships taking
+their stations, I rowed on board the Fury, and found four pumps
+constantly going to keep the ship free, and Captain Hoppner, his
+officers and men, almost exhausted with the incessant labour of
+the last eight-and-forty hours. The instant the ships were made
+fast, Captain Hoppner and myself set out in a boat to survey the
+shore still farther south, there being a narrow lane of water
+about a mile in that direction; for it had now become too evident
+that the Fury could proceed no farther without repairs, and that
+the nature of those repairs would in all probability involve the
+disagreeable, I may say the ruinous, necessity of heaving the
+ship down. After rowing about three quarters of a mile, we
+considered ourselves fortunate in arriving at a bolder part of
+the beach, where three grounded masses of ice, having from three
+to four fathoms water at low tide within them, were so disposed
+as to afford, with the assistance of art, something like shelter.
+Returning to the ships, we were setting the sails in order to run
+to the appointed place, when the ice closed in and prevented our
+moving, and in a short time there was once more no open water to
+be seen. We were therefore under the necessity of remaining in
+our present berths, where the smallest external pressure must
+inevitably force us ashore, neither ship having more than two
+feet of water to spare. One watch of the Hecla's crew were sent
+round to assist at the Fury's pumps, which required one third of
+her ship's company to be constantly employed at them.</p>
+<p>The more leisure we obtained to consider the state of the
+Fury, the more apparent became the absolute, however unfortunate,
+necessity of heaving her down. Four pumps were required to be at
+work without intermission to keep her free, and this in perfectly
+smooth water, showing that she was, in fact, so materially
+injured as to be very far from seaworthy. One third of her
+working men were constantly employed, as before remarked, in this
+laborious operation, and some of their hands had become so sore
+from the constant friction of the ropes, that they could hardly
+handle them any longer without the use of mittens, assisted by
+the unlaying of the ropes to make them soft. As, therefore, not a
+moment could be lost, we took advantage of a small lane of water,
+deep enough for boats, which kept open within the grounded masses
+along the shore, to convey to the Hecla some of the Fury's dry
+provisions, and to land a quantity of heavy iron work, and other
+stores not perishable; for the moment this measure was determined
+on, I was anxious, almost at any risk, to commence the lightening
+of the ship as far as our present insecurity and our distance
+from the shore would permit.</p>
+<p>At two A.M. on the 5th, the ice began to slacken near the
+ships, and, as soon as a boat could be rowed alongshore to the
+southward, I set out, accompanied by a second from the Fury, for
+the purpose of examining the state of our intended harbour since
+the recent pressure, and to endeavour to prepare for the
+reception of the ships by clearing out the loose ice. The Fury
+was detained some time by a quantity of loose ice, which had
+wedged itself in in such a manner as to leave her no room to move
+outward; but she arrived about seven o'clock, when both ships
+were made fast in the best berths we could find, but they were
+excluded from their intended place by the quantity of ice which
+had fixed itself there. Within twenty minutes after our arrival,
+the whole body of ice again came in, entirely closing up the
+shore, so that our moving proved most opportune.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c013_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c013">CHAPTER VI.</a></h2>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>Formation of a Basin for heaving the Fury down.&mdash;Landing
+of the Fury's Stores, and other Preparations.&mdash;The Ships
+secured within the Basin.&mdash;Impediments from the Pressure of
+the Ice.&mdash;Fury hove down.&mdash;Securities of the Basin
+destroyed by a Gale of Wind.&mdash;Preparations to tow the Fury
+out.&mdash;Hecla Re-equipped, and obliged to put to
+Sea.&mdash;Fury again driven on Shore.&mdash;Rejoin the Fury; and
+find it necessary finally to abandon her.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p>As there was now no longer room for floating the ice out of
+the proposed basin, all hands were immediately employed in
+preparing the intended securities against the incursions of the
+ice. These consisted of anchors carried to the beach, having
+bower-cables attached to them, passing quite round the grounded
+masses, and thus enclosing a small space of just sufficient size
+to admit both ships. The cables we proposed floating by means of
+the two hand-masts and some empty casks lashed to them as buoys,
+with the intention of thus making them receive the pressure of
+the ice a foot or two below the surface of the water. By uncommon
+exertions on the part of the officers and men, this laborious
+work was completed before night as far as was practicable until
+the loose ice should set out; and all the tents were set up on
+the beach for the reception of the Fury's stores.</p>
+<p>The ice remaining quite close on the 6th, every individual in
+both ships, with the exception of those at the pumps, was
+employed in landing provisions from the Fury, together with the
+spars, boats, and everything from off her upper deck. On the
+following day, the ice remaining as before, the work was
+continued without intermission, and a great quantity of things
+landed. The armorer was also set to work on the beach in forging
+bolts for the martingales of the outriggers. In short, every
+living creature among us was somehow or other employed, not even
+excepting our dogs, which were set to drag up the stores on the
+beach; so that our little dock-yard soon exhibited the most
+animated scene imaginable. The Fury was thus so much lightened in
+the course of the day, that two pumps were now nearly sufficient
+to keep her free, and this number continued requisite until she
+was hove down.</p>
+<p>At night, just as the people were going to rest, the ice began
+to move to the southward, and soon after came in towards the
+shore, pressing the Fury over on her side to so alarming a
+degree, as to warn us that it would not be safe to lighten her
+much more in her present insecure situation. One of our bergs
+also shifted its position by this pressure, so as to weaken our
+confidence in the pier-heads of our intended basin; and a long
+"tongue" of one of them forcing itself under the Hecla's
+forefoot, while the drifting ice was also pressing her forcibly
+from astern, she once more sewed three or four feet forward at
+low water, and continued to do so, notwithstanding repeated
+endeavours to haul her off, for four successive tides, the ice
+remaining so close and so much doubled under the ship, as to
+render it impossible to move her a single inch. Notwithstanding
+the state of the ice, however, we did not remain idle on the 8th,
+all hands being employed in unrigging the Fury, and landing all
+her spars, sails, booms, boats, and other top weight.</p>
+<p>The ice still continuing very close on the 9th, all hands were
+employed in attempting, by saws and axes, to clear the Hecla,
+which still grounded on the tongue of ice every tide. After four
+hours' labour, they succeeded in making four or five feet of room
+astern, when the ship suddenly slid down off the tongue with
+considerable force, and became once more afloat. As it very
+opportunely happened, the external ice slackened to the distance
+of about a hundred yards outside of us on the morning of the
+10th, enabling us, by a most tedious and laborious operation, to
+clear the ice out of our basin piece by piece. Our next business
+was to tighten the cables sufficiently by means of purchases, and
+to finish the floating of them in the manner and for the purpose
+before described. After this had been completed, the ships had
+only a few feet in length, and nothing in breadth to spare, but
+we had now great hopes of going on with our work with increased
+confidence and security. The Fury, which was placed inside, had
+something less than eighteen feet at low water; the Hecla lay in
+four fathoms, the bottom being strewed with large and small
+fragments of limestone.</p>
+<p>While thus employed in securing the ships, the smoothness of
+the water enabled us to see, in some degree, the nature of the
+Fury's damage; and it may be conceived how much pain it
+occasioned us plainly to discover that both the sternpost and
+forefoot were broken and turned up on one side with the pressure.
+We also could perceive, as far as we were able to see along the
+main keel, that it was much torn, and we had therefore much
+reason to conclude that the damage would altogether prove very
+serious. We also discovered that several feet of the Hecla's
+false keel were torn away abreast of the forechains, in
+consequence of her grounding forward so frequently.</p>
+<p>Being favoured with fine weather, we continued our work very
+quickly, so that on the 12th every cask was landed, and also the
+powder; and the spare sails and clothing put on board the Hecla.
+The coals and preserved meats were the principal things now
+remaining on board the Fury, and these we continued landing by
+every method we could devise as the most expeditious.</p>
+<p>Early on the morning of the 14th, the ice slackening a little
+in our neighbourhood, we took advantage of it, though the people
+were much fagged, to tighten the cables, which had stretched and
+yielded considerably by the late pressure. It was well that we
+did so; for in the course of this day we were several times
+interrupted in our work by the ice coming with a tremendous
+strain on the north cables, the wind blowing strong from the
+N.N.W., and the whole "pack" outside of us setting rapidly to the
+southward. Indeed, notwithstanding the recent tightening and
+readjustment of the cables, the bight was pressed in so much as
+to force the Fury against the berg astern of her twice in the
+course of the day.</p>
+<p>From this trial of the efficacy of our means of security, it
+was plain that the Fury could not possibly be hove down under
+circumstances of such frequent and imminent risk: I therefore
+directed a fourth anchor, with two additional cables, to be
+carried out, with the hope of breaking some of the force of the
+ice by its offering a more oblique resistance than the other, and
+thus, by degrees, turning the direction of the pressure from the
+ships. We had scarcely completed this new defence, when the
+largest floe we had seen since leaving Port Bowen came sweeping
+along the shore, having a motion to the southward of not less
+than a mile and a half an hour; and a projecting point of it,
+just grazing our outer berg, threatened to overturn it, and would
+certainly have dislodged it from its situation but for the cable
+recently attached to it.</p>
+<p>The Fury being completely cleared at an early hour on the
+16th, we were all busily employed in "winding" the ship, and in
+preparing the outriggers, shores, purchases, and additional
+rigging. Though we purposely selected the time of high water for
+turning the ship round, we had scarcely a foot of space to spare
+for doing it; and indeed, as it was, her forefoot touched the
+ground, and loosened the broken part of the wood so much as to
+enable us to pull it up with ropes, when we found the fragments
+to consist of the whole of the "gripe" and most of the
+"cutwater." In the evening we received the Fury's crew on board
+the Hecla, every arrangement and regulation having been
+previously made for their personal comfort, and for the
+preservation of cleanliness, ventilation, and dry warmth
+throughout the ship. The officers of the Fury, by their own
+choice, pitched a tent on shore for messing and sleeping in, as
+our accommodation for two sets of officers was necessarily
+confined. Every preparation being made, at three A.M. on the 18th
+we began to heave her down on the larboard side; but when the
+purchases were nearly ablock, we found that the strops under the
+Hecla's bottom, as well as some of the Fury's shore-fasts, had
+stretched or yielded so much that they could not bring the keel
+out of water within three or four feet. We immediately eased her
+up again, and readjusted everything as requisite, hauling her
+farther in-shore than before by keeping a considerable heel upon
+her, so as to make less depth of water necessary; and we were
+then in the act of once more heaving her down, when a snowstorm
+came on and blew with such violence off the land as to raise a
+considerable sea. The ships had now so much motion as to strain
+the gear very much, and even to make the lower masts of the Fury
+bend in spite of the shores; we were, therefore, most unwillingly
+compelled to desist until the sea should go down, keeping
+everything ready to recommence the instant we could possibly do
+so with safety. The officers and men were now literally so
+harassed and fatigued as to be scarcely capable of farther
+exertion without some rest; and on this and one or two other
+occasions, I noticed more than a single instance of stupor,
+amounting to a certain degree of failure in intellect, rendering
+the individual so affected quite unable at first to comprehend
+the meaning of an order, though still as willing as ever to obey
+it. It was therefore, perhaps, a fortunate necessity that
+produced the intermission of labour which the strength of every
+individual seemed to require.</p>
+<p>The gale rather increasing than otherwise during the whole day
+and night of the 18th, had, on the following morning, when the
+wind and sea still continued unabated, so destroyed the bergs on
+which our sole dependance was placed, that they no longer
+remained aground at low water; the cables had again become slack
+about them, and the basin we had taken so much pains in forming
+had now lost all its defences, at least during a portion of every
+tide. After a night of most anxious consideration and
+consultation with Captain Hoppner, who was now my messmate in the
+Hecla, it appeared but too plain that, should the ice again come
+in, neither ship could any longer be secured from driving on
+shore. It was therefore determined instantly to prepare the Hecla
+for sea, making her thoroughly effective in every respect; so
+that we might at least push <i>her</i> out into comparative
+safety among the ice when it closed again, taking every person on
+board her, securing the Fury in the best manner we could, and
+returning to her the instant we were able to do so, to endeavour
+to get her out, and to carry her to some place of security for
+heaving down. If, after the Hecla was ready, time should still be
+allowed us, it was proposed immediately to put into the Fury all
+that was requisite, or, at least, as much as she could safely
+carry, and, towing her out into the ice, to try the effect of
+"foddering" the leaks by sails under those parts of her keel
+which we knew to be damaged, until some more effectual means
+could be resorted to.</p>
+<p>Having communicated to the assembled officers and ships'
+companies my views and intentions, we commenced our work; and
+such was the hearty good-will and indefatigable energy with which
+it was carried on, that by midnight the whole was
+accomplished.</p>
+<p>On the 20th, therefore, the reloading of the Fury commenced
+with recruited strength and spirits, such articles being in the
+first place selected for putting on board as were essentially
+requisite for her reequipment; for it was my full determination,
+could we succeed in completing this, not to wait even for rigging
+a topmast, or getting a lower yard up, in the event of the ice
+coming in, but to tow her out among the ice, and there put
+everything sufficiently to rights for carrying her to some place
+of security. A few hands were also spared, consisting chiefly of
+two or three convalescents, and some of the officers, to thrum a
+sail for putting under the Fury's keel; for we were very anxious
+to relieve the men at the pumps, which constantly required the
+labour of eight to twelve hands to keep her free. By a long and
+hard day's labour, the people not going to rest till two o'clock
+on the morning of the 21st, we got about fifty tons' weight of
+coals and provisions on board the Fury, which, in case of
+necessity, we considered sufficient to give her stability. Having
+hauled the ships out a little from the shore, and prepared the
+Hecla for casting by a spring at a moment's notice, all the
+people except those at the pumps were sent to rest, which,
+however, they had not enjoyed for two hours, when, at four A.M.
+on the 21st, another heavy mass coming violently in contact with
+the bergs and cables, threatened to sweep away every remaining
+security. More hawsers were run out, however, and enabled us
+still to hold on; and, after six hours of disturbed rest, all
+hands were again set to work to get the Fury's anchors, cables,
+rudder, and spars on board, these being absolutely necessary for
+her equipment, should we be able to get her out. At two P.M. the
+crews were called on board to dinner, which they had not finished
+when several not very large masses of ice drove along the shore
+near us at a quick rate, and two or three successively coming in
+violent contact either with the Hecla or the bergs to which she
+was attached, convinced me that very little additional pressure
+would tear everything away, and drive both ships on shore. I saw
+that the moment had arrived when the Hecla could no longer be
+kept in her present situation with the smallest chance of safety,
+and therefore immediately got under sail, despatching Captain
+Hoppner with every individual, except a few for working the ship,
+to continue getting the things on board the Fury, while the Hecla
+stood off and on. Captain Hoppner had scarcely been an hour on
+board the Fury, and was busily engaged in getting the anchors and
+cables on board, when we observed some large pieces of not very
+heavy ice closing in with the land near her; and at twenty
+minutes past four P.M., being an hour and five minutes after the
+Hecla had cast off, I was informed by signal that the Fury was on
+shore. As the navigating of the Hecla, with only ten men on
+board, required constant attention and care, I could not at this
+time, with propriety, leave the ship to go on board the Fury. I
+therefore directed Captain Hoppner by telegraph, "if he thought
+nothing could be done at present, to return on board with all
+hands until the wind changed;" for this alone, as far as I could
+see the state of the Fury, seemed to offer the smallest chance of
+clearing the shore, so as to enable us to proceed with our work,
+or to attempt hauling the ship off the ground. About seven P.M.
+Captain Hoppner returned to the Hecla, accompanied by all hands,
+except an officer with a party at the pumps, reporting to me,
+that the Fury had been forced aground by the ice pressing on the
+masses lying near her, and bringing home, if not breaking, the
+seaward anchor, so that the ship was soon found to have sewed
+from two to three feet fore and aft.</p>
+<p>Finding, soon after Captain Hoppner's return, that the current
+swept the Hecla a long way to the southward while hoisting up the
+boats, and that more ice was drifting in towards the shore, I was
+under the painful necessity of recalling the party at the pumps,
+rather than incur the risk, now an inevitable one, of parting
+company with them altogether. Accordingly, Mr. Bird, with the
+last of the people, came on board at eight o'clock in the
+evening, having left eighteen inches water in the well, and four
+pumps being requisite to keep her free. In three hours after Mr.
+Bird's return, more than half a mile of closely packed ice
+intervened between the Fury and the open water in which we were
+beating, and before the morning this barrier had increased to
+four or five miles in breadth.</p>
+<p>We carried a press of canvass all night, with a fresh breeze
+from the north, to enable us to keep abreast of the Fury, which,
+on account of the strong southerly current, we could only do by
+beating at some distance from the land. The breadth of the ice
+in-shore continued increasing during the day, but we could see no
+end to the water in which we were beating, either to the
+southward or eastward. It fell quite calm in the evening, when
+the breadth of the ice in-shore had increased to six or seven
+miles. We did not, during the day, perceive any current setting
+to the southward, but in the course of the night we were drifted
+four or five leagues to the southwestward.</p>
+<p>A southerly breeze enabling us to regain our northing, we ran
+along the margin of the ice, but were led so much to the eastward
+by it, that we could approach the ship no nearer than before
+during the whole day. She appeared to us at this distance to have
+a much greater heel than when the people left her, which made us
+still more anxious to get near her. The latitude at noon was
+72&deg; 34' 57", making our distance from the Fury twelve miles,
+which, by the morning of the 25th, had increased to at least five
+leagues, the ice continuing to "pack" between us and the shore.
+The wind, however, now gradually drew round to the westward,
+giving us hopes of a change, and we continued to ply about the
+margin of the ice, in constant readiness for taking advantage of
+any opening that might occur. It favoured us so much by streaming
+off in the course of the day, that by seven P.M. we had nearly
+reached a channel of clear water, which kept open for seven or
+eight miles from the land. Being impatient to obtain a sight of
+the Fury, and the wind becoming light, Captain Hoppner and myself
+left the Hecla in two boats, and reached the ship at half past
+nine, or about three quarters of an hour before high water, being
+the most favourable time of tide for arriving to examine her
+condition.</p>
+<p>We found her heeling so much outward, that her main channels
+were within a foot of the water; and the large floe-piece, which
+was still alongside of her, seemed alone to support her below
+water, and to prevent her falling over still more considerably.
+The ship had been forced much farther up the beach than before,
+and she had now in her bilge above nine feet of water, which
+reached higher than the lower-deck beams. The first hour's
+inspection of the Fury's condition too plainly assured me that,
+exposed as she was, and forcibly pressed up upon an open and
+stony beach, her holds full of water, and the damage of her hull
+to all appearance and in all probability more considerable than
+before, without any adequate means of hauling her off to seaward,
+or securing her from the farther incursions of the ice, every
+endeavour of ours to get her off, or <i>if</i> got off, to float
+her to any known place of safety, would be at once utterly
+hopeless in itself, and productive of extreme risk to our
+remaining ship.</p>
+<p>Mr. Pulfer, the carpenter of the Fury, considered that it
+would occupy five days to clear the ship of water; that if she
+were got off, all the pumps would not be sufficient to keep her
+free, in consequence of the additional damage she seemed to have
+sustained; and that, if even hove down, twenty days' work, with
+the means we possessed, would be required for making her
+sea-worthy. Captain Hoppner and the other officers were therefore
+of opinion, that an absolute necessity existed for abandoning the
+Fury. My own opinion being thus confirmed as to the utter
+hopelessness of saving her, and feeling more strongly than ever
+the responsibility which attached to me of preserving the Hecla
+unhurt, it was with extreme pain and regret that I made the
+signal for the Fury's officers and men to be sent for their
+clothes, most of which, had been put on shore with the
+stores.</p>
+<p>The whole of the Fury's stores were of necessity left either
+on board her or on shore, every spare corner that we could find
+in the Hecla being now absolutely required for the accommodation
+of our double complement of officers and men, whose cleanliness
+and health could only be maintained by keeping the decks as clear
+and well ventilated as our limited space would permit. The spot
+where the Fury was left is in latitude 72&deg; 42' 30"; the
+longitude by chronometers is 91&deg; 50' 05"; the dip of the
+magnetic needle 88&deg; 19' 22"; and the variation 129&deg; 25'
+westerly.</p>
+<p>When the accident first happened to the Fury, I confidently
+expected to be able to repair her damages in good time to take
+advantage of a large remaining part of the navigable season in
+the prosecution of the voyage; and while the clearing of the ship
+was going on with so much alacrity, and the repairs seemed to be
+within the reach of our means and resources, I still flattered
+myself with the same hope. Those expectations were now at an end.
+With a twelvemonth's provisions for both ship's companies,
+extending our resources only to the autumn of the following year,
+it would have been folly to hope for final success, considering
+the small progress we had already made, the uncertain nature of
+this navigation, and the advanced period of the present season. I
+was therefore reduced to the only remaining conclusion, that it
+was my duty, under all the circumstances of the case, to return
+to England in compliance with the plain tenour of my
+instructions. As soon as the boats were hoisted up, therefore,
+and the anchor stowed, the ship's head was put to the
+northeastward, with a light air off the land, in order to gain an
+offing before the ice should again set in-shore.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c014_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c014">CHAPTER VII.</a></h2>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>Some Remarks upon the Loss of the Fury&mdash;And on the
+Natural History, &amp;c., of the Coast of North
+Somerset.&mdash;Arrive at Neill's Harbour.&mdash;Death of John
+Page.&mdash;Leave Neill's Harbour.&mdash;Recross the Ice in
+Baffin's Bay.&mdash;Heavy Gales.&mdash;Temperature of the
+Sea.&mdash;Arrival in England.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p>The accident which had now befallen the Fury, and which, when
+its fatal result was finally ascertained, at once put an end to
+every prospect of success in the main object of this voyage, is
+not an event which will excite surprise in the minds of those who
+are either personally acquainted with the true nature of this
+precarious navigation, or have had patience to follow me through
+the tedious and monotonous detail of our operations during seven
+successive summers. To any persons thus qualified to judge, it
+will be plain that an occurrence of this nature was at all times
+rather to be expected than otherwise, and that the only real
+cause for wonder has been our long exemption from such a
+catastrophe.</p>
+<p>The summer of 1825 was, beyond all doubt, the warmest and most
+favourable we had experienced since that of 1818. Not more than
+two or three days occurred, during the months of July and August,
+in which that heavy fall of snow took place which so commonly
+converts the aspect of nature in these regions, in a single hour,
+from the cheerfulness of summer into the dreariness of winter.
+Indeed, we experienced very little either of snow, rain, or fog:
+vegetation, wherever the soil allowed any to spring up, was
+extremely luxuriant and forward; a great deal of the old snow,
+which had laid on the ground during the last season, was rapidly
+dissolving even early in August; and every appearance of nature
+exhibited a striking contrast with the last summer, while it
+seemed evidently to furnish an extraordinary compensation for its
+rigour and inclemency.</p>
+<p>We have scarcely ever visited a coast on which so little of
+animal life occurs. For days together, only one or two seals, a
+single seahorse, and now and then a flock of ducks, were seen. I
+have already mentioned, however, as an exception to this scarcity
+of animals, the numberless kittiwakes which were flying about the
+remarkable spout of water; and we were one day visited, at the
+place where the Fury was left, by hundreds of white whales,
+sporting about in the shoal water close to the beach. No black
+whales were ever seen on this coast. Two reindeer were observed
+by the gentlemen who extended their walks inland; but this was
+the only summer in which we did not procure a single pound of
+venison. Indeed, the whole of our supplies obtained in this way
+during the voyage, including fish, flesh, and fowl, did not
+exceed twenty pounds per man.</p>
+<p>The weather continuing nearly calm during the 26th, and the
+ice keeping at the distance of several miles from the land, gave
+us an opportunity of clearing decks, and stowing the things
+belonging to the Fury's crew more comfortably for their
+accommodation and convenience. I now felt more sensibly than ever
+the necessity I have elsewhere pointed out, of both ships
+employed on this kind of service being of the same size, equipped
+in the same manner, and alike efficient in every respect. The way
+in which we had been able to apply every article for assisting to
+heave the Fury down, without the smallest doubt or selection as
+to size or strength, proved an excellent practical example of the
+value of being thus able, at a moment's warning, to double the
+means and resources of either ship in case of necessity. In fact,
+by this arrangement, nothing but a harbour to secure the ships
+was wanted to complete the whole operation in as effectual a
+manner as in a dockyard; for not a shore, or outrigger, or any
+other precaution was omitted, that is usually attended to on such
+occasions, and all as good and effective as could anywhere have
+been desired. The advantages were now scarcely conspicuous in the
+accommodation of the officers and men, who in a short time became
+little less comfortable than in their own ship; whereas, in a
+smaller vessel, comfort, to say nothing of health, would have
+been quite out of the question.</p>
+<p>A breeze from the northward freshening up strong on the 27th,
+we stretched over to the eastern shore of Prince Regent's Inlet,
+and this with scarcely any obstruction from ice. We could,
+indeed, scarcely believe this the same sea which, but a few weeks
+before, had been loaded with one impenetrable body of
+closely-packed ice from shore to shore, and as far as the eye
+could discern to the southward. Having a great deal of heavy work
+to do in the restowage of the holds, which could not well be
+accomplished at sea, and also a quantity of water to fill for our
+increased complement, I determined to take advantage of our
+fetching the entrance of Neill's Harbour to put in here, in order
+to prepare the ship completely for crossing the Atlantic. I was
+desirous also of ascertaining the depth of water in this place,
+which was wanting to complete Lieutenant Sherer's survey of it.
+Finding the harbour an extremely convenient one for our purpose,
+we worked the ship in, and at four P.M. anchored in thirteen
+fathoms, but afterward shifted out to eighteen, on a bottom of
+soft mud. Almost at the moment of our dropping the anchor, John
+Page, seaman of the Fury, departed this life: he had for several
+months been affected with a scrofulous disorder, and had been
+gradually sinking for some time.</p>
+<p>The funeral of the deceased being performed, we immediately
+commenced landing the casks and filling water; but,
+notwithstanding the large streams which, a short time before, had
+been running into the harbour, we could hardly obtain enough for
+our purpose by sinking a cask with holes in it. This work,
+together with the entire restowage of all the holds, occupied the
+whole of the 29th and 30th, during which time Lieutenant Sherer
+was employed in completing the survey of the harbour, more
+especially the soundings, which the presence of the ice had
+before prevented. These arrangements had just been completed,
+when the northeasterly wind died away, and was succeeded, on the
+morning of the 31st, by a light air from the northwest. As soon
+as we had sent to ascertain that the sea was clear of ice on the
+outside, and that the breeze which blew in the harbour was the
+true one, we weighed and stood out, and before noon had cleared
+the shoals at the entrance.</p>
+<p>Finding the wind at northwest in Prince Regent's Inlet, we
+were barely able to lie along the eastern coast. As the breeze
+freshened in the course of the day, a great deal of loose ice, in
+extensive streams and patches, came drifting down from the
+Leopold Islands, occasioning us some trouble in picking our way
+to the northward. By carrying a press of sail, however, we were
+enabled, towards night, to get into clearer water, and by four
+A.M. on the 1st of September, having beat to windward of a
+compact body of ice which had fixed itself on the lee shore about
+Cape York, we soon came into a perfectly open sea in Barrow's
+Strait, and were enabled to bear away to the eastward. We now
+considered ourselves fortunate in having got out of harbour when
+we did, as the ice would probably have filled up every inlet on
+that shore in a few hours after we left it.</p>
+<p>Being again favoured with a fair wind, we now stretched to the
+eastward, still in an open sea; and our curiosity was
+particularly excited to see the present situation of the ice in
+the middle of Baffin's Bay, and to compare it with that in 1824.
+This comparison we were enabled to make the more fairly, because
+the season at which we might expect to come to it coincided,
+within three or four days, with that in which we left it the
+preceding year. The temperature of the sea-water now increased to
+38&deg; soon after leaving the Sound, where it had generally been
+from 33&deg; to 35&deg;, whereas at the same season last year it
+rose no higher than 32&deg; anywhere in the neighbourhood, and
+remained even so high as that only for a very short time. This
+circumstance seemed to indicate the total absence of ice from
+those parts of the sea which had last autumn been wholly covered
+by it. Accordingly, on the 5th, being thirty miles beyond the
+spot in which we had before contended with numerous difficulties
+from ice, not a piece was to be seen, except one or two solitary
+bergs; and it was not till the following day, in latitude 72&deg;
+45', and longitude 64&deg; 44', or about one hundred and
+twenty-seven miles to the eastward of where we made our escape on
+the 9th of September, 1824, that we fell in with a body of ice so
+loose and open as scarcely to oblige us to alter our course for
+it. At three P.M. on the 7th, being in latitude 72&deg; 30', and
+longitude 60&deg; 05', and having, in the course of eighty miles
+that we had run through it, only made a single tack, we came to
+the margin of the ice, and got into an open sea on its eastern
+side. In the whole course of this distance, the ice was so much
+spread that it would not, if at all closely "packed," have
+occupied one third of the same space. There were at this time
+thirty-nine bergs in sight, and some of them certainly not less
+than two hundred feet in height.</p>
+<p>On the 8th, being in latitude 71&deg; 55', longitude 60&deg;
+30', and close to the margin of the ice, we fell in with the
+Alfred, Ellison, and Elizabeth, whalers, of Hull, all running to
+the northward, even at this season, to look for whales.</p>
+<p>As the whaling-ships were not homeward bound, having as yet
+had indifferent success in the fishery, I did not consider it
+necessary to send despatches by them. After an hour's
+communication with them, and obtaining such information of a
+public nature as could not fail to be highly interesting to us,
+we made sail to the southward; while we observed them lying to
+for some time after, probably to consult respecting the unwelcome
+information with which we had furnished them as to the whales,
+not one of which, by some extraordinary chance, we had seen since
+leaving Neill's Harbour. As this circumstance was entirely new to
+us, it seems not unlikely that the whales are already beginning
+to shift their ground, in consequence of the increased attacks
+which have been made upon them of late years in that
+neighbourhood.</p>
+<p>On the 10th we had an easterly wind, which, gradually
+freshening to a gale, drew up the Strait from the southward, and
+blew strong for twentyfour hours from that quarter. The wind
+moderated on the 11th, but on the following day another gale came
+on, which for nine or ten hours blew in most tremendous gusts
+from the same quarter, and raised a heavy sea. We happily came
+near no ice during the night, or it would scarcely have been
+possible to keep the ship clear of it. It abated after daylight
+on the 13th, but continued to blow an ordinary gale for twelve
+hours longer.</p>
+<p>On the 17th, at noon, we had passed to the southward of the
+Arctic Circle, and from this latitude to that of about 58&deg;,
+we had favourable winds and weather; but we remarked on this, as
+on several other occasions during this season, that a northerly
+breeze, contrary to ordinary observation, brought more moisture
+with it than any other. In the course of this run, we also
+observed more driftwood than we had ever done before, which I
+thought might possibly be owing to the very great prevalence of
+easterly winds this season driving it farther from the coast of
+Greenland than usual.</p>
+<p>On, the morning of the 24th, notwithstanding the continuance
+of a favourable breeze, we met, in the latitude of 58-1/2&deg;,
+so heavy a swell from the northeastward as to make the ship
+labour violently for four-and-twenty hours. On the morning of the
+25th we had again an easterly wind, which in a few hours reduced
+us to the close-reefed topsails and reefed courses. At eight P.M.
+it freshened to a gale, which brought us under the main-topsail
+and storm-staysails, and at seven the following morning it
+increased to a gale of such violence from N.E.b.N. as does not
+very often occur at sea in these latitudes. The gusts were at
+times so tremendous as to set the sea quite in a foam, and
+threatened to tear the sails out of the bolt-ropes. The wind
+gradually drew to the westward, with dry weather, after the gale
+began to abate, and at six A.M. we were enabled to bear up and
+run to the eastward with a strong gale at N.W.</p>
+<p>The indications of the barometer previous to and during this
+gale deserve to be noticed, because it is only about Cape
+Farewell that, in coming from the northward down Davis's Strait,
+this instrument begins to speak a language which has ever been
+intelligible to us <i>as a weather glass</i>. On the 24th,
+notwithstanding the change of wind from north to east, the
+mercury rose from 29.51 on that morning, to 29.72 at three A.M.
+the following day, but fell to 26.39 by nine P.M. with the strong
+but not violent breeze then blowing. After this it continued to
+descend very gradually, and had reached 28.84, which was its
+minimum, at three P.M. on the 26th, after which it continued to
+blow tremendously hard for eleven or twelve hours, the mercury
+uniformly, though slowly, ascending to 28.95 during that
+interval, and afterward to 29.73 as the weather became moderate
+and fine in the course of the t&auml;&auml;hree following
+days.</p>
+<p>After this gale the atmosphere seemed to be quite cleared, and
+we enjoyed a week of such remarkably fine weather as seldom
+occurs at this season of the year. We had then a succession of
+strong southerly winds, but we were enabled to continue our
+progress to the eastward, so as to make Mould Head, towards the
+northwest end of the Orkney Islands, at daylight on the 10th of
+October.</p>
+<p>After rounding the north end of the Orkneys on the 10th of
+October, we were, on the 12th, met by a strong southerly wind
+when off Peterhead. I therefore immediately landed (for the
+second time) at that place, and, setting off without delay for
+London, arrived at the Admiralty on the 16th.</p>
+<p>The Hecla arrived at Sheerness on the 20th of October, where
+she was detained for a few days for the purpose of Captain
+Hoppner, his officers, and ship's company being put upon their
+trial (according to the customary and indispensable rule in such
+cases) for the loss of the Fury&mdash;when, it is scarcely
+necessary to add, they received an honourable acquittal. The
+Hecla then proceeded to Woolwich, and was paid off on the 21st of
+November.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name='ACCOUNT'></a>
+<h2>ACCOUNT<br>
+ OF<br>
+ THE ESQUIMAUX</h2>
+<h3>OF<br>
+ MELVILLE PENINSULA AND THE ADJOINING ISLANDS:<br>
+MORE PARTICULARLY OF WINTER ISLAND AND IGLOOLIK.</h3>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name='b003_2'></a>
+<h2><a href='#b003'>ACCOUNT OF THE ESQUIMAUX.</a></h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>The number of individuals composing the tribe of Esquimaux
+assembled at Winter Island and Igloolik was two hundred and
+nineteen, of whom sixty-nine were men, seventy-seven women, and
+seventy-three children. Two or three of the men, from their
+appearance and infirmities, as well as from the age of their
+children, must have been near seventy; the rest were from twenty
+to about fifty. The majority of the women were comparatively
+young, or from twenty to five-and-thirty, and three or four only
+seemed to have reached sixty. Of the children, about one third
+were under four years old, and the rest from that age upward to
+sixteen or seventeen. Out of one hundred and fifty-five
+individuals who passed the winter at Igloolik, we knew of
+eighteen deaths and of only nine births.</p>
+<p>The stature of these people is much below that of Europeans in
+general. One man, who was unusually tall, measured five feet ten
+inches, and the shortest was only four feet eleven inches and a
+half. Of twenty individuals of each sex measured at Igloolik, the
+range was:</p>
+Men.&mdash;From 5 ft. 10 in. to 4 ft. 11 in.<br>
+<span style='margin-left: 1em;'>The average height, 5 ft. 5-1/3
+in.</span><br>
+Women.&mdash;From 5 ft. 3-1/2 in. to 4 ft. 8-3/4 in.<br>
+<span style='margin-left: 1em;'>The average height, 5 ft. 0-1/2
+in.</span><br>
+
+<p>The women, however, generally appear shorter than they really
+are, both from the unwieldy nature of their clothes, and from a
+habit, which they early acquire, of stooping considerably forward
+in order to balance the weight of the child they carry in their
+hood.</p>
+<p>In their figure they are rather well formed than otherwise.
+Their knees are indeed rather large in proportion, but their legs
+are straight, and the hands and feet, in both sexes, remarkably
+small. The younger individuals were all plump, but none of them
+corpulent; the women inclined the most to this last extreme, and
+their flesh was, even in the youngest individuals, quite loose
+and without firmness.</p>
+<p>Their faces are generally round and full, eyes small and
+black, nose also small and sunk far in between the cheek bones,
+but not much flattened. It is remarkable, that one man T=e-~a,
+his brother, his wife, and two daughters, had good Roman noses,
+and one of the latter was an extremely pretty young woman. Their
+teeth are short, thick, and close, generally regular, and in the
+young persons almost always white. The elderly women were still
+well furnished in this way, though their teeth were usually a
+good deal worn down, probably by the habit of chewing the
+sealskins for making boots.</p>
+<p>In the young of both sexes the complexion is clear and
+transparent, and the skin smooth. The colour of the latter, when
+divested of oil and dirt, is scarcely a shade darker than that of
+a deep brunette, so that the blood is plainly perceptible when it
+mounts into the cheeks. In the old folks, whose faces were much
+wrinkled, the skin appears of a much more dingy hue, the dirt
+being less easily, and, therefore, less frequently dislodged from
+them.</p>
+<p>By whatever peculiarities, however, they may in general be
+distinguished, they are by no means an ill-looking people; and
+there were among them three or four grown-up persons of each sex,
+who, when divested of their skin-dresses, their tattooing, and,
+above all, of their dirt, might have been considered
+pleasing-looking, if not handsome, people in any town in Europe.
+This remark applies more generally to the children also; several
+of whom had complexions nearly as fair as that of Europeans, and
+whose little bright black eyes gave a fine expression to their
+countenances.</p>
+<p>The hair, both of males and females, is black, glossy, and
+straight. The men usually wear it rather long, and allow it to
+hang about their heads in a loose and slovenly manner. The women
+pride themselves extremely on the length and thickness of their
+hair; and it was not without reluctance on their part, and the
+same on that of their husbands, that they were induced to dispose
+of any of it. Some of the women's hair was tolerably fine, but
+would not, in this respect, bear a comparison with, that of an
+Englishwoman. In both sexes it is full of vermin, which they are
+in the constant habit of picking out and eating; a man and his
+wife will sit for an hour together performing for each other that
+friendly office. The women have a comb, which, however, seems
+more intended for ornament than use, as we seldom or never
+observed them comb their hair. When a woman's husband is ill, she
+wears her hair loose, and cuts it off as a sign of mourning if he
+dies; a custom agreeing with that of the Greenlanders. The men
+wear the hair on the upper lip and chin from an inch to an inch
+and a half in length, and some were distinguished by a little
+tuft between the chin and lower lip.</p>
+<p>In winter every individual, when in the open air, wears two
+jackets, of which the outer one (<i>C=app~e t=egg~a</i>) has the
+hair outside, and the inner one (<i>At-t=e=ega</i>) next the
+body. Immediately on entering the hut the men take off their
+outer jacket, beat the snow from it, and lay it by. The upper
+garment of the females, besides being cut according to a regular
+and uniform pattern, and sewed with exceeding neatness, which is
+the case with all the dresses of these people, has also the flaps
+ornamented in a very becoming manner by a neat border of
+deerskin, so arranged as to display alternate breadths of white
+and dark fur. This is, moreover, usually beautified by a handsome
+fringe, consisting of innumerable long narrow threads of leather
+hanging down from it. This ornament is not uncommon also in the
+outer jackets of the men. When seal-hunting, they fasten up the
+tails of their jackets with a button behind.</p>
+<p>Their breeches, of which in winter they also wear two pairs,
+and similarly disposed as to the fur, reach below the knee, and
+fasten with a string drawn tight round the waist. Though these
+have little or no waistband, and do not come very high, the depth
+of the jackets, which considerably overlap them, serves very
+effectually to complete the covering of the body.</p>
+<p>Their legs and feet are so well clothed, that no degree of
+cold can well affect them. When a man goes on a sealing
+excursion, he first puts on a pair of deerskin boots
+(<i>All~ekt=eeg~a</i>) with the hair inside, and reaching to the
+knee, where they tie. Over these come a pair of shoes of the same
+material; next a pair of dressed sealskin boots, perfectly
+water-tight; and over all a corresponding pair of shoes, tying
+round the instep. These last are made just like the moccasin of a
+North American Indian, being neatly crimped at the toes, and
+having several serpentine pieces of hide sewn across the sole to
+prevent wearing. The water-tight boots and shoes are made of the
+skin of the small seal (<i>neitiek</i>), except the soles, which
+consist of the skin of the large seal (<i>oguk~e</i>); this last
+is also used for their fishing-lines. When the men are not
+prepared to encounter wet, they wear an outer boot of deerskin,
+with the hair outside.</p>
+<p>The inner boot of the women, unlike that of the men, is loose
+round the leg, coming as high as the knee-joint behind, and in
+front carried up, by a long pointed flap, nearly to the waist,
+and there fastened to the breeches. The upper boot, with the hair
+as usual outside, corresponds with the other in shape, except
+that it is much more full, especially on the outer side, where it
+bulges out so preposterously as to give the women the most
+awkward, bow-legged appearance imaginable. This superfluity of
+boot has probably originated in the custom, still common among
+the native women of Labrador, of carrying their children in them.
+We were told that these women sometimes put their children there
+to sleep; but the custom must be rare among them, as we never saw
+it practised. These boots, however, form their principal pockets,
+and pretty capacious ones they are. Here, also, as in jackets,
+considerable taste is displayed in the selection of different
+parts of the deerskin, alternate strips of dark and white being
+placed up and down the sides and front by way of ornament. The
+women also wear a moccasin (<i>Itteeg~eg~a</i>) over all in the
+winter time.</p>
+<p>To judge by the eagerness with which the women received our
+beads, especially small white ones, as well as any other article
+of that kind, we might suppose them very fond of personal
+ornament. Yet of all that they obtained from us in this way at
+Winter Island, scarcely anything ever made its appearance again
+during our stay there, except a ring or two on the finger, and
+some bracelets of beads round the wrist; the latter of these was
+probably considered as a charm of some kind or other. We found
+among them, at the time of our first intercourse, a number of
+black and white beads, disposed alternately on a string of sinew,
+and worn in this manner. They would also sometimes hang a small
+bunch of these, or a button or two, in front of their jackets and
+hair; and many of them, in the course of the second winter,
+covered the whole front of their jackets with the beads they
+received from us.</p>
+<p>Among their personal ornaments must be reckoned that mode of
+marking the body called tattooing, which, of the customs not
+essential to the comfort or happiness of mankind, is perhaps the
+most extensively practised throughout the world. Among these
+people it seems to be an ornament of indispensable importance to
+the women, not one of them being without it. The operation is
+performed about the age of ten, or sometimes earlier, and has
+nothing to do with marriage, except that, being considered in the
+light of a personal charm, it may serve to recommend them as
+wives. The parts of the body thus marked are their faces, arms,
+hands, thighs, and in some few women the breasts, but never the
+feet, as in Greenland. The operation, which, by way of curiosity,
+most of our gentlemen had practised on their arms, is very
+expeditiously managed by passing a needle and thread, the latter
+covered with lampblack and oil, under the epidermis, according to
+a pattern previously marked out upon the skin. Several stitches
+being thus taken at once, the thumb is pressed upon the part
+while the thread is drawn through, by which means the colouring
+matter is retained, and a permanent dye of a blue tinge imparted
+to the skin. A woman expert at this business will perform it very
+quickly and with great regularity, but seldom without drawing
+blood in many places, and occasioning some inflammation. Where so
+large a portion of the surface of the body is to be covered, it
+must become a painful as well as tedious process, especially as,
+for want of needles, they often use a strip of whalebone as a
+substitute. For those parts where a needle cannot conveniently be
+passed under the skin, they use the method by puncture, which is
+common in other countries, and by which our seamen frequently
+mark their hands and arms. Several of the men were marked on the
+back part of their hands; and with them we understood it to be
+considered as a <i>souvenir</i> of some distant deceased person
+who had performed it.</p>
+<p>In their winter habitations, I have before mentioned that the
+only materials employed are snow and ice; the latter being made
+use of for the windows alone. The work is commenced by cutting
+from a drift of hard and compact snow a number of oblong slabs,
+six or seven inches thick and about two feet in length, and
+laying them edgeways on a level spot, also covered with snow, in
+a circular form, and of a diameter from eight to fifteen feet,
+proportioned to the number of occupants the hut is to contain.
+Upon this as a foundation is laid a second tier of the same kind,
+but with the pieces inclining a little inward, and made to fit
+closely to the lower slabs and to each other by running a knife
+adroitly along the under part and sides. The top of this tier is
+now prepared for the reception of a third, by squaring it off
+smoothly with a knife, all which is dexterously performed by one
+man standing within the circle and receiving the blocks of snow
+from those employed in cutting them without. When the wall has
+attained a height of four or five feet, it leans so much inward
+as to appear as if about to tumble every moment; but the workmen
+still fearlessly lay their blocks of snow upon it, until it is
+too high any longer to furnish the materials to the builder in
+this manner. Of this he gives notice by cutting a hole close to
+the ground in that part where the door is intended to be, which
+is near the south side, and through this the snow is now passed.
+Thus they continue till they have brought the sides nearly to
+meet in a perfect and well-constructed dome, sometimes nine or
+ten feet high in the centre; and this they take considerable care
+in finishing, by fitting the last block or <i>keystone</i> very
+nicely in the centre, dropping it into its place from the
+outside, though it is still done by the man within. The people
+outside are in the mean time occupied in throwing up snow with
+the <i>p~oo=all~er=ay</i> or snow shovel, and in stuffing in
+little wedges of snow where holes have been accidentally
+left.</p>
+<p>The builder next proceeds to let himself out by enlarging the
+proposed doorway into the form of a Gothic arch, three feet high
+and two feet and a half wide at the bottom, communicating with
+which they construct two passages, each from ten to twelve feet
+long and from four to five feet in height, the lowest being that
+next the hut. The roofs of these passages are sometimes arched,
+but more generally made flat by slabs laid on horizontally. In
+first digging the snow for building the hut, they take it
+principally from the part where the passages are to be made,
+which purposely brings the floor of the latter considerably lower
+than that of the hut, but in no part do they dig till the bare
+ground appears.</p>
+<p>The work just described completes the walls of a hut, if a
+single apartment only be required; but if, on account of
+relationship, or from any other cause, several families are to
+reside under one roof, the passages are made common to all, and
+the first apartment (in that case made smaller) forms a kind of
+antechamber, from which you go through an arched doorway five
+feet high into the inhabited apartments. When there are three of
+these, which is generally the case, the whole building, with its
+adjacent passages, forms a tolerably regular cross.</p>
+<p>For the admission of light into the huts, a round hole is cut
+on one side of the roof of each apartment, and a circular plate
+of ice, three or four inches thick and two feet in diameter, let
+into it. The light is soft and pleasant, like that transmitted
+through ground glass, and it is quite sufficient for every
+purpose. When, after some time, these edifices become surrounded
+by drift, it is only by the windows, as I have before remarked,
+that they could be recognised as human habitations. It may,
+perhaps, then be imagined how singular is their external
+appearance at night, when they discover themselves only by a
+circular disk of light transmitted through the windows from the
+lamps within.</p>
+<p>The next thing to be done is to raise a bank of snow, two and
+a half feet high, all round the interior of each apartment,
+except on the side next the door. This bank, which is neatly
+squared off, forms their beds and fireplace, the former occupying
+the sides, and the latter the end opposite the door. The passage
+left open up to the fireplace is between three and four feet
+wide. The beds are arranged by first covering the snow with a
+quantity of small stones, over which are laid their paddles,
+tentpoles, and some blades of whalebone: above these they place a
+number of little pieces of network, made of thin slips of
+whalebone, and lastly a quantity of twigs of birch<a name=
+'FNanchor_008_8'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_008_8'><sup>[008]</sup></a> and of the <i>andromeda
+tetragona</i>. Their deerskins, which are very numerous, can now
+be spread without risk of their touching the snow; and such a bed
+is capable of affording not merely comfort, but luxurious repose,
+in spite of the rigour of the climate. The skins thus used as
+blankets are made of a large size and bordered, like some of the
+jackets, with a fringe of long, narrow slips of leather, in which
+state a blanket is called <i>k=eipik</i>.</p>
+<p>The fire belonging to each family consists of a single lamp,
+or shallow vessel of <i>lapis ollaris</i>, its form being the
+lesser segment of a circle. The wick, composed of dry moss rubbed
+between the hands till it is quite inflammable, is disposed along
+the edge of the lamp on the straight side, and a greater or
+smaller quantity lighted, according to the heat required or the
+fuel that can be afforded. When the whole length of this, which
+is sometimes above eighteen inches, is kindled, it affords a most
+brilliant and beautiful light, without any perceptible smoke or
+any offensive smell. The lamp is made to supply itself with oil,
+by suspending a long, thin slice of whale, seal, or seahorse
+blubber near the flame, the warmth of which causes the oil to
+drip into the vessel until the whole is extracted. Immediately
+over the lamp is fixed a rude and rickety framework of wood, from
+which their pots are suspended, and serving also to sustain a
+large hoop of bone, having a net stretched tight within it. This
+contrivance, called <i>Inn~et~at</i>, is intended for the
+reception of any wet things, and is usually loaded with boots,
+shoes, and mittens.</p>
+<p>The fireplace just described as situated at the upper end of
+the apartment, has always two lamps facing different ways, one
+for each family occupying the corresponding bedplace. There is
+frequently, also, a smaller and less-pretending establishment on
+the same model&mdash;lamp, pot, net, and all&mdash;in one of the
+corners next the door; for one apartment sometimes contains three
+families, which are always closely related; and no married woman,
+or even a widow without children, is without her separate
+fireplace.</p>
+<p>With all the lamps lighted and the hut full of people and
+dogs, a thermometer placed on the net over the fire indicated a
+temperature of 38&deg;; when removed two or three feet from this
+situation, it fell to 31&deg;; and, placed close to the wall,
+stood at 23&deg;, the temperature of the open air at the time
+being 25&deg; below <i>zero</i>. A greater degree of warmth than
+this produces extreme inconvenience by the dropping from the
+roofs. This they endeavour to obviate by applying a little piece
+of snow to the place from which a drop proceeds, and this
+adhering, is for a short time an effectual remedy; but for
+several weeks in the spring, when the weather is too warm for
+these edifices, and still too cold for tents, they suffer much on
+this account.</p>
+<p>The most important, perhaps, of the domestic utensils, next to
+the lamp already described, are the <i>=o=otk~o~os~e~eks</i>, or
+stone pots for cooking. These are hollowed out of solid <i>lapis
+ollaris</i>, of an oblong form, wider at the top than at the
+bottom all made in similar proportion; though of various sizes
+corresponding with the dimensions of the lamp which burns under
+it. The pot is suspended by a line of sinew at each end to the
+framework over the fire, and thus becomes so black on every side
+that the original colour of the stone is in no part discernible.
+Many of them were cracked quite across in several places, and
+mended by sewing with sinew or rivets of copper, iron, or lead,
+so as, with the assistance of a lashing and a due proportion of
+dirt, to render them quite watertight.</p>
+<p>Besides the ootkooseeks, they have circular and oval vessels
+of whalebone, of various sizes, which, as well as their ivory
+knives made out of a walrus's tusk, are precisely similar to
+those described on the western coast of Baffin's Bay in 1820.
+They have also a number of smaller vessels of skin sewed neatly
+together; and a large basket of the same material, resembling a
+common sieve in shape, but with the bottom close and tight, is to
+be seen in every apartment. Under every lamp stands a sort of
+"save-all," consisting of a small skin basket for catching the
+oil that falls over. Almost every family was in possession of a
+wooden tray very much resembling those used to carry butcher's
+meat in England, and of nearly the same dimensions, which we
+understood them to have procured by way of Noowook. They had a
+number of the bowls or cups already once or twice alluded to as
+being made out of the thick root of the horn of the musk-ox. Of
+the smaller part of the same horn they also form a convenient
+drinking-cup, sometimes turning it up artificially about one
+third from the point, so as to be almost parallel to the other
+part, and cutting it full of small notches as a convenience in
+grasping it. These or any other vessels for drinking they call
+<i>Imm=o=ochiuk</i>.</p>
+<p>Besides the ivory knives, the men were well supplied with a
+much more serviceable kind, made of iron, and called
+<i>panna</i>. The form of this knife is very peculiar, being
+seven inches long, two and a quarter broad, quite straight and
+flat, pointed at the end, and ground equally sharp at both edges;
+this is firmly secured into a handle of bone or wood about a foot
+long, by two or three iron rivets, and has all the appearance of
+a most destructive spearhead, but is nevertheless put to no other
+purpose than that of a very useful knife, which the men are
+scarcely ever without, especially on their sealing excursions.
+For these, and several knives of European form, they are probably
+indebted to an indirect communication with our factories in
+Hudson's Bay. The same may be observed of the best of their
+women's knives (<i>ooloo</i>), on one of which, of a larger size
+than usual, were the names of "Wild and Sorby." When of their own
+manufacture, the only iron part was a little narrow slip let into
+the bone and secured by rivets.</p>
+<p>Of the horn of the musk-ox they make also very good spoons,
+much like ours in shape; and I must not omit to mention their
+marrow spoons (<i>patt=ekniuk</i>, from <i>p=att~ek</i>, marrow),
+made out of long, narrow, hollowed pieces of bone, of which every
+housewife has a bunch of half a dozen or more tied together, and
+generally attached to her needle-case.</p>
+<p>For the purpose of obtaining fire, the Esquimaux use two lumps
+of common iron pyrites, from which sparks are struck into a
+little leathern case containing moss well dried and rubbed
+between the hands. If this tinder does not readily catch, a small
+quantity of the white floss of the seed of the ground-willow is
+laid above the moss. As soon as a spark has caught, it is gently
+blown till the fire has spread an inch around, when, the pointed
+end of a piece of oiled wick being applied, it soon bursts into a
+flame&mdash;the whole process having occupied perhaps two or
+three minutes.</p>
+<p>In enumerating the articles of their food, we might, perhaps,
+give a list of every animal inhabiting these regions, as they
+certainly will, at times, eat any one of them. Their principal
+dependance, however, is on the reindeer (<i>t=o=okto~o</i>);
+musk-ox (<i>=o=om~ingm~uk</i>), in the parts where this animal is
+found; whale (<i>=agg~aw~ek</i>); walrus (<i>=ei-~u-~ek</i>); the
+large and small seal (<i>=og~uke</i> and <i>n~eitiek</i>); and
+two sorts of salmon, the <i>=ew~ee-t=ar~oke</i> (<i>salmo
+alpinus?</i>) and <i>ichl=u~ow~oke</i>. The latter is taken by
+hooks in fresh-water lakes, and the former by spearing in the
+shoal water of certain inlets of the sea. Of all these animals,
+they can only procure in the winter the walrus and small seal
+upon this part of the coast; and these at times, as we have seen,
+in scarcely sufficient quantity for their subsistence.</p>
+<p>They certainly, in general, prefer eating their meat cooked,
+and, while they have fuel, they usually boil it; but this is a
+luxury, and not a necessary to them. Oily as the nature of their
+principal food is, yet they commonly take an equal proportion of
+lean to their fat, and, unless very hungry, do not eat it
+otherwise. Oil they seldom or never use in any way as a part of
+their general diet; and even our butter, of which they were fond,
+they would not eat without a due quantity of bread.<a name=
+'FNanchor_009_9'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_009_9'><sup>[009]</sup></a> They do not like salt meat
+as well as fresh, and never use salt themselves; but ship's pork
+or even a red herring did not come amiss to them. Of pea-soup
+they would eat as much as the sailors could afford to give them;
+and that word was the only one, with the exception of our names,
+which many of them ever learned in English. Among their own
+luxuries must be mentioned a rich soup called k=ay~o, made of
+blood, gravy, and water, and eaten quite hot.</p>
+<p>Their only drink is water; and of this, when they can procure
+it, they swallow an inconceivable quantity; so that one of the
+principal occupations of the women during the winter is the
+thawing of snow in the ootkooseeks for this purpose. They cut it
+into thin slices, and are careful to have it clean, on which
+account they will bring it from a distance of fifty yards from
+the huts. They have an extreme dislike to drinking water much
+above the temperature of 32&deg;. In eating their meals, the
+mistress of the family, having previously cooked the meat, takes
+a large lump out of the pot with her fingers, and hands it to her
+husband, who, placing a part of it between his teeth, cuts it off
+with a large knife in that position, and then passes the knife
+and meat together to his next neighbour. In cutting off a
+mouthful of meat, the knife passes so close to their lips, that
+nothing but constant habit could ensure them from the danger of
+the most terrible gashes; and it would make an English mother
+shudder to see the manner in which children five or six years old
+are at all times freely trusted with a knife to be used in this
+way.</p>
+<p>The length of one of the best of seven canoes belonging to
+these Esquimaux was twenty-five feet, including a narrow-pointed
+projection, three feet long at each end, which turns a little
+upward from the horizontal. The extreme breadth, which is just
+before the circular hole, was twenty-one inches, and the depth
+ten inches and a half. The plane of the upper surface of the
+canoe, except in the two extreme projections, bends downward a
+little from the centre towards the head and stern, giving it the
+appearance of what in ships is called "broken-backed." The
+gunwales are of fir, in some instances of one piece, three or
+four inches broad in the centre, and tapering gradually away
+towards the ends. The timbers, as well as the fore-and-aft
+connecting pieces, are of the same material, the former being an
+inch square, and sometimes so close together as to require
+between forty and fifty of them in one canoe: which, when thus
+"in frame," is one of the prettiest things of the kind that can
+be imagined. The skin with which the canoe is covered is
+exclusively that of the <i>neitiek</i>, prepared by scraping off
+the hair and fat with an <i>ooloo</i>, and stretching it tight on
+a frame over the fire; after which and a good deal of chewing, it
+is sown on by the women with admirable neatness and strength.
+Their paddles have a blade at each end, the whole length being
+nine feet and a half; the blades are covered with a narrow plate
+of bone round the ends to secure them from splitting; they are
+always made of fir, and generally of several pieces scarfed and
+woolded together.</p>
+<p>In summer they rest their canoes upon two small stones raised
+four feet from the ground, and in winter on a similar structure
+of snow; in one case to allow them to dry freely, and in the
+other to prevent the snowdrift from covering, and the dogs from
+eating them. The difficulty of procuring a canoe may be concluded
+from the circumstance of there being at Winter Island twenty men
+able to manage one, and only seven canoes among them. Of these,
+indeed, only three or four were in good repair; the rest being
+wholly or in part stripped of the skin, of which a good deal was
+occasionally cut off during the winter, to make boots, shoes, and
+mittens for our people. We found no <i>oomiak</i>, or woman's
+boat, among them, and understood that they were not in the habit
+of using them, which may in part be accounted for by their
+passing so much of the summer in the interior; they knew very
+well, however, what they were, and made some clumsy models of
+them for our people.</p>
+<p>In the weapons used for killing their game there is
+considerable variety, according to the animal of which they are
+in pursuit. The most simple of these is the <i>=o=on~ak</i>,
+which they use only for killing the small seal. It consists of a
+light staff of wood, four feet in length, having at one end the
+point of a narwhal's horn, from ten to eighteen inches long,
+firmly secured by rivets and wooldings; at the other end is a
+smaller and less effective point of the same kind. To prevent
+losing the ivory part in case of the wood breaking, a stout thong
+runs along the whole length of the wood, each end passing through
+a hole in the ivory, and the bight secured in several places to
+the staff. In this weapon, as far as it has yet been described,
+there is little art or ingenuity displayed; but a considerable
+degree of both in an appendage called <i>si=atk~o</i>, consisting
+of a piece of bone three inches long, and having a point of iron
+at one end, and at the other end a small hole or socket to
+receive the point of the oonak. Through the middle of this
+instrument is secured the <i>=allek</i>, or line of thong, of
+which every man has, when sealing, a couple of coils, each from
+four to six fathoms long, hanging at his back.</p>
+<p>When a seal is seen, the siatko is taken from a little
+leathern case, in which, when out of use, it is carefully
+enclosed, and attached by its socket to the point of the spear;
+in this situation it is retained by bringing the allek tight down
+and fastening it round the middle of the staff by what seamen
+call a "slippery-hitch," which may instantly be disengaged by
+pulling on the other end of the line. As soon as the spear has
+been thrown and the animal struck, the siatko is thus purposely
+separated; and being slung by the middle, now performs very
+effectually the important office of a barb, by turning at right
+angles to the direction in which it has entered the orifice. This
+device is in its principle superior even to our barb; for the
+instant any strain is put upon the line, it acts like a toggle,
+opposing its length to a wound only as wide as its own
+breadth.</p>
+<p>The <i>=akl~eak</i> or <i>akl=e=eg~a</i>, used for the large
+seal, has a blown bladder attached to the staff, for the purpose
+of impeding the animal in the water.</p>
+<p>The third and largest weapon is that called <i>katteelik</i>,
+with which the walrus and whale are attacked. The staff of this
+is not longer, but much stouter than that of the others,
+especially towards the middle, where there is a small shoulder of
+ivory securely lashed to it for the thumb to rest against, and
+thus to give additional force in throwing or thrusting the spear.
+The ivory point of this weapon is made to fit into a socket at
+the end of the staff, where it is secured by double thongs in
+such a manner as steadily to retain its position when a strain is
+put upon it in the direction of its length, but immediately
+disengaging itself with a sort of spring when any lateral strain
+endangers its breaking. The siatko is always used with this
+spear; and to the end of the allek, when the animal pursued is in
+open water, they attach a whole sealskin (<i>h~ow-w=ut-t~a</i>),
+inflated like a bladder, for the purpose of tiring it out in its
+progress through the water.</p>
+<p>They have a spear called <i>~ippoo</i> for killing deer in the
+water. They describe it as having a light staff and a small head
+of iron; but they had none of these so fitted in the winter. The
+<i>n=ug~uee</i>, or dart for birds, has, besides its two ivory
+prongs at the end of the staff, three divergent ones in the
+middle of it, with several small double barbs upon them turning
+inward. The spear for salmon or other fish, called
+<i>k=ak~eew~ei</i>, consists of a wooden staff, with a spike of
+bone or ivory, three inches long, secured at one end. On each
+side of the spike is a curved prong, much like that of a
+pitchfork, but made of flexible horn, which gives them a spring,
+and having a barb on the inner part of the point turning
+downward. Their fishhooks (<i>kakli=okio</i>) consist only of a
+nail crooked and pointed at one end, the other being let into a
+piece of ivory to which the line is attached. A piece of deer's
+horn or curved bone only a foot long is used as a rod, and
+completes this very rude part of their fishing-gear.</p>
+<p>Of their mode of killing seals in the winter I have already
+spoken in the course of the foregoing narrative, as far as we
+were enabled to make ourselves acquainted with it. In their
+summer exploits on the water, the killing of the whale is the
+most arduous undertaking which they have to perform; and one
+cannot sufficiently admire the courage and activity which, with
+gear apparently so inadequate, it must require to accomplish this
+business. Okotook, who was at the killing of two whales in the
+course of a single summer, and who described the whole of it
+quite <i>con amore</i>, mentioned the names of thirteen men who,
+each in his canoe, had assisted on one of these occasions. When a
+fish is seen lying on the water, they cautiously paddle up astern
+of him, till a single canoe, preceding the rest, comes close to
+him on one quarter, so as to enable the man to drive the
+<i>katteelik</i> into the animal with all the force of both arms.
+This having the <i>siatko</i>, a long <i>allek</i>, and the
+inflated sealskin attached to it, the whale immediately dives,
+taking the whole apparatus with him except the katteelik, which,
+being disengaged in the manner before described, floats to the
+surface, and is picked up by its owner. The animal reappearing
+after some time, all the canoes again paddle towards him, some
+warning being given by the sealskin buoy floating on the surface.
+Each man being furnished like the first, they repeat the blows as
+often as they find opportunity, till perhaps, every line has been
+thus employed. After pursuing him in this manner sometimes for
+half a day, he is at length so wearied by the resistance of the
+buoys, and exhausted by the loss of blood, as to be obliged to
+rise more and more often to the surface, when, by frequent wounds
+with their spears, they succeed in killing him, and tow their
+prize in triumph to the shore.</p>
+<p>In attacking the walrus in the water they use the same gear,
+but much more caution than with the whale, always throwing the
+<i>katteelik</i> from some distance, lest the animal should
+attack the canoe and demolish it with his tusks. The walrus is,
+in fact, the only animal with which they use any caution of this
+kind. They like the flesh better than that of the seal; but
+venison is preferred by them to either of these, and, indeed, to
+any other kind of meat.</p>
+<p>At Winter Island they carefully preserved the heads of all the
+animals killed during the winter, except two or three of the
+walrus, which we obtained with great difficulty. As the blood of
+the animals which they kill is all used as food of the most
+luxurious kind, they are careful to avoid losing any portion of
+it; for this purpose they carry with them on their excursions a
+little instrument of ivory called <i>t~oop=o=ot~a</i>, in form
+and size exactly resembling a "twenty-penny" nail, with which
+they stop up the orifice made by the spear, by thrusting it
+through the skin by the sides of the wound, and securing it with
+a twist.</p>
+<p>One of the best of their bows was made of a single piece of
+fir, four feet eight inches in length, flat on the inner side and
+rounded on the outer, being five inches in girth about the
+middle, where, however, it is strengthened on the concave side,
+when strung, by a piece of bone ten inches long, firmly secured
+by treenails of the same material. At each end of the bow is a
+knob of bone, or sometimes of wood covered with leather, with a
+deep notch for the reception of the string. The only wood which
+they can procure, not possessing sufficient elasticity combined
+with strength, they ingeniously remedy the defect by securing to
+the back of the bow, and to the knobs at each end, a quantity of
+small lines, each composed of a plat or "sinnet" of three sinews.
+The number of lines thus reaching from end to end is generally
+about thirty; but, besides these, several others are fastened
+with hitches round the bow, in pairs, commencing eight inches
+from one end, and again united at the same distance from the
+other, making the number of strings in the middle of the bow
+sometimes amount to sixty. These being put on with the bow bent
+somewhat the contrary way, produce a spring so strong as to
+require considerable force as well as knack in stringing it, and
+giving the requisite velocity to the arrow. The bow is completed
+by a woolding round the middle, and a wedge or two, here and
+there, driven in to tighten it. A bow in one piece is, however,
+very rare; they generally consist of from two to five pieces of
+bone of unequal lengths, secured together by rivets and
+treenails.</p>
+<p>The arrows vary in length from twenty to thirty inches,
+according to the materials that can be commanded. About two
+thirds of the whole length is of fir rounded, and the rest of
+bone let by a socket into the wood, and having a head of thin
+iron, or more commonly of slate, secured into a slit by two
+treenails. Towards the opposite end of the arrow are two
+feathers, generally of the spotted oval, not very neatly lashed
+on. The bowstring consists of from twelve to eighteen small lines
+of three-sinew sinnet, having a loose twist, and with a separate
+becket of the same size for going over the knobs at the end of
+the bow.</p>
+<p>We tried their skill in archery by getting them to shoot at a
+mark for a prize, though with bows in extremely bad order on
+account of the frost, and their hands very cold. The mark was two
+of their spears stuck upright in the snow, their breadth being
+three inches and a half. At twenty yards they struck this every
+time; at thirty, sent the arrows always within an inch or two of
+it; and at forty or fifty yards, I should think, would generally
+hit a fawn if the animal stood still. These weapons are perhaps
+sufficient to inflict a mortal wound at something more than that
+distance, for which, however, a strong arm would be required. The
+animals which they kill with the bow and arrow for their
+subsistence are principally the musk-ox and deer, and less
+frequently the bear, wolf, fox, hare, and some of the smaller
+animals.</p>
+<p>The reindeer are killed by the Esquimaux in great abundance in
+the summer season, partly by driving them from islands or narrow
+necks of land into the sea, and then spearing them from their
+canoes; and partly by shooting them from behind heaps of stones
+raised for the purpose of watching them, and imitating their
+peculiar bellow or grunt. Among the various artifices which they
+employ for this purpose, one of the most ingenious consists in
+two men walking directly <i>from</i> the deer they wish to kill,
+which almost always follows them. As soon as they arrive at a
+large stone, one of the men hides behind it with his bow, while
+the other continuing to walk on, soon leads the deer within range
+of his companion's arrows. They are also very careful to keep to
+leeward of the deer, and will scarcely go out after them at all
+when the weather is calm. For several weeks in the course of the
+summer, some of these people almost entirely give up their
+fishery on the coast, retiring to the banks of lakes several
+miles in the interior, which they represent as large and deep,
+and abounding with salmon, while the pasture near them affords
+good feeding to numerous herds of deer.</p>
+<p>The distance to which these people extend their inland
+migrations, and the extent of coast of which they possess a
+personal knowledge, are really very considerable. A great number
+of them, who were born at Amitioke and Igloolik, had been to
+<i>Noowook</i>, or nearly as far south as Chesterfield Inlet,
+which is about the <i>ne plus ultra</i> of their united knowledge
+in a southerly direction. Okotook and a few others of the Winter
+Island tribe had extended their peregrinations a considerable
+distance to the northward, over the large insular piece of land
+to which we have applied the name of Cockburn Island; which they
+described as high land, and the resort of numerous reindeer. By
+the information afterward obtained when nearer the spot, we had
+reason to suppose this land must reach beyond the seventy-second
+degree of latitude in a northerly direction; so that these people
+possess a personal knowledge of the Continent of America and its
+adjacent islands, from that parallel to Chesterfield Inlet in
+63-3/4&deg;, being a distance of more than five hundred miles
+reckoned in a direct line, besides the numerous turnings and
+windings of the coast along which they are accustomed to travel.
+Ewerat and some others had been a considerable distance up the
+Wager River; but no record had been preserved among them of
+Captain Middleton's visit to that inlet about the middle of the
+last century.</p>
+<p>Of the Indians they know enough by tradition to hold them in
+considerable dread, on account of their cruel and ferocious
+manners. When, on one occasion, we related the circumstances of
+the inhuman massacre described by Hearne, they crowded round us
+in the hut, listening with mute and almost breathless attention;
+and the mothers drew their children closer to them, as if to
+guard them from the dreadful catastrophe.</p>
+<p>The Esquimaux take some animals in traps, and by a very
+ingenious contrivance of this kind they caught two wolves at
+Winter Island. It consists of a small house built of ice, at one
+end of which a door, made of the same plentiful material, is
+fitted to slide up and down in a groove; to the upper part of
+this a line is attached, and, passing over the roof, is let down
+into the trap at the inner end, and there held by slipping an eye
+in the end of it over a peg of ice left for the purpose. Over the
+peg, however, is previously placed a loose grummet, to which the
+bait is fastened, and a false roof placed over all to hide the
+line. The moment the animal drags at the bait, the grummet slips
+off the peg, bringing with it the line that held up the door, and
+this, falling down, closes the trap and secures him,</p>
+<p>A trap for birds is formed by building a house of snow just
+large enough to contain one person, who closes himself up in it.
+On the top is left a small aperture, through which the man
+thrusts one of his hands to secure the bird the moment he alights
+to take away a bait of meat laid beside it. It is principally
+gulls that are taken thus; and the boys sometimes amuse
+themselves in this manner. A trap in which they catch foxes has
+been mentioned in another place.</p>
+<p>The sledges belonging to these Esquimaux were in general large
+and heavily constructed, being more adapted to the carriage of
+considerable burdens than to very quick travelling. They varied
+in size, being from six feet and a half to nine feet in length,
+and from eighteen inches to two feet in breadth. Some of those at
+Igloolik were of larger dimensions, one being eleven feet in
+length, and weighing two hundred and sixty-eight pounds, and two
+or three others above two hundred pounds. The runners are
+sometimes made of the right and left jaw-bones of a whale; but
+more commonly of several pieces of wood or bone scarfed and
+lashed together, the interstices being filled, to make all smooth
+and firm, with moss stuffed in tight, and then cemented by
+throwing water to freeze upon it. The lower part of the runner is
+shod with a plate of harder bone, coated with fresh-water ice to
+make it run smoothly, and to avoid wear and tear, both which
+purposes are thus completely answered. This coating is performed
+with a mixture of snow and fresh water about half an inch thick,
+rubbed over it till it is quite smooth and hard upon the surface,
+and this is usually done a few minutes before setting out on a
+journey. When the ice is only in part worn off, it is renewed by
+taking some water into the mouth, and spirting it over the former
+coating. We noticed a sledge which was extremely curious, on
+account of one of the runners and a part of the other being
+constructed without the assistance of wood, iron, or bone of any
+kind. For this purpose, a number of sealskins being rolled up and
+disposed into the requisite shape, an outer coat of the same kind
+was sewed tightly round them; this formed the upper half of the
+runner, the lower part of which consisted entirely of moss
+moulded while wet into the proper form, and being left to freeze,
+adhering firmly together and to the skins. The usual shoeing of
+smooth ice beneath completed the runner, which, for more than six
+months out of twelve, in this climate, was nearly as hard as any
+wood; and for winter use, no way inferior to those constructed of
+more durable materials. The cross-pieces which form the bottom of
+the sledges are made of bone, wood, or anything they can muster.
+Over these is generally laid a sealskin as a flooring, and in the
+summer time a pair of deer's horns are attached to the sledge as
+a back, which in the winter are removed, to enable them, when
+stopping, to turn the sledge up, so as to prevent the dogs
+running away with it. The whole is secured by lashings of thong,
+giving it a degree of strength combined with flexibility which
+perhaps no other mode of fastening could effect.</p>
+<p>The colour of the dogs varies from a white, through brindled,
+to black and white, or almost entirely black. Their hair in the
+winter is from three to four inches long; but, besides this,
+nature furnishes them, during this rigorous season, with a thick
+under coating of close, soft wool, which they begin to cast in
+the spring. While thus provided, they are able to withstand the
+most inclement weather without suffering from the cold; and, at
+whatever temperature the atmosphere may be, they require nothing
+but a shelter from the wind to make them comfortable, and even
+this they do not always obtain. They are also wonderfully enabled
+to endure the cold even on those parts of the body which are not
+thus protected; for we have seen a young puppy sleeping, with its
+bare paw laid on an ice-anchor, with the thermometer at-30&deg;,
+which, with one of our dogs, would have produced immediate and
+intense pain, if not subsequent mortification. They never bark,
+but have a long, melancholy howl like that of the wolf, and this
+they will sometimes perform in concert for a minute or two
+together. They are, besides, always snarling and fighting among
+one another, by which several of them are generally lame. When
+much caressed and well fed, they become quite familiar and
+domestic: but this mode of treatment does not improve their
+qualities as animals of draught. Being desirous of ascertaining
+whether these dogs are wolves in a state of domestication, a
+question which we understood to have been the subject of some
+speculation, Mr. Skeoch, at my request, made a skeleton of each,
+when the number of all the vertebrae was found to be the same in
+both,<a name='FNanchor_010_10'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_010_10'><sup>[010]</sup></a> and to correspond with
+the well-known anatomy of the wolf.</p>
+<p>When drawing a sledge, the dogs have a simple harness
+(<i>annoo</i>) of deer or seal skin going round the neck by one
+bight, and another for each of the fore legs, with a single thong
+leading over the back and attached to the sledge as a trace.
+Though they appear at first sight to be huddled together without
+regard to regularity, there is, in fact, considerable attention
+paid to their arrangement, particularly in the selection of a dog
+of peculiar spirit and sagacity, which is allowed, by a longer
+trace, to precede the rest as leader, and to which, in turning to
+the right or left, the driver usually addresses himself. This
+choice is made without regard to age or sex, and the rest of the
+dogs take precedence according to their training or sagacity, the
+least effective being put nearest the sledge. The leader is
+usually from eighteen to twenty feet from the fore part of the
+sledge, and the hindermost dog about half that distance, so that
+when ten or twelve are running together, several are nearly
+abreast of each other. The driver sits quite low on the fore part
+of the sledge, with his feet overhanging the snow on one side,
+and having in his hand a whip, of which the handle, made either
+of wood, bone, or whalebone, is eighteen inches, and the lash
+more than as many feet in length. The part of the thong next the
+handle is platted a little way down to stiffen it and give it a
+spring, on which much of its use depends; and that which composes
+the lash is chewed, by the women to make it flexible in frosty
+weather. The men acquire from their youth considerable expertness
+in the use of this whip, the lash of which is left to trail along
+the ground by the side of the sledge, and with which they can
+inflict a very severe blow on any dog at pleasure. Though the
+dogs are kept in training entirely by fear of the whip, and
+indeed without it would soon have their own way, its immediate
+effect is always detrimental to the draught of the sledge; for
+not only does the individual that is struck draw back and slacken
+his trace, but generally turns upon his next neighbour, and this,
+passing on to the next, occasions a general divergency,
+accompanied by the usual yelping and showing of teeth. The dogs
+then come together again by degrees, and the draught of the
+sledge is accelerated; but even at the best of times, by this
+rude mode of draught, the traces of one third of the dogs form an
+angle of thirty or forty degrees on each side of the direction in
+which the sledge is advancing. Another great inconvenience
+attending the Esquimaux method of putting the dogs to, besides
+that of not employing their strength to the best advantage, is
+the constant entanglement of the traces by the dogs repeatedly
+doubling under from side to side to avoid the whip, so that,
+after running a few miles, the traces always require to be taken
+off and cleared.</p>
+<p>In directing the sledge the whip acts no very essential part,
+the driver for this purpose using certain words, as the carters
+do with us, to make the dogs turn more to the right or left. To
+these a good leader attends with admirable precision, especially
+if his own name be repeated at the same time, looking behind over
+his shoulder with great earnestness, as if listening to the
+directions of the driver. On a beaten track, or even where a
+single foot or sledge mark is occasionally discernible, there is
+not the slightest trouble in guiding the dogs; for even in the
+darkest night and in the heaviest snowdrift, there is little or
+no danger of their losing the road, the leader keeping his nose
+near the ground, and directing the rest with wonderful sagacity.
+Where, however, there is no beaten track, the best driver among
+them makes a terribly circuitous course, as all the Esquimaux
+roads plainly show; these generally occupying an extent of six
+miles, when with a horse and sledge the journey would scarcely
+have amounted to five. On rough ground, as among hummocks of ice,
+the sledge would be frequently overturned or altogether stopped
+if the driver did not repeatedly get off, and, by lifting or
+drawing it to one side, steer it clear of those accidents. At all
+times, indeed, except on a smooth and well-made road, he is
+pretty constantly employed thus with his feet, which, together
+with his never-ceasing vociferations and frequent use of the
+whip, renders the driving of one of these vehicles by no means a
+pleasant or easy task. When the driver wishes to stop the sledge,
+he calls out "Wo, woa," exactly as our carters do; but the
+attention paid to his command depends altogether on his ability
+to enforce it. If the weight is small and the journey homeward,
+the dogs are not to be thus delayed; the driver is therefore
+obliged to dig his heels into the snow to obstruct their
+progress; and, having thus succeeded in stopping them, he stands
+up with one leg before the foremost crosspiece of the sledge,
+till, by means of laying the whip gently over each dog's head, he
+has made them all lie down. He then takes care not to quit his
+position; so that, should the dogs set off, he is thrown upon the
+sledge, instead of being left behind by them.</p>
+<p>With heavy loads the dogs draw best with one of their own
+people, especially a woman, walking a little way ahead; and in
+this case they are sometimes enticed to mend their pace by
+holding a mitten to the mouth, and then making the motion of
+cutting it with a knife, and throwing it on the snow, when the
+dogs, mistaking it for meat, hasten forward to pick it up. The
+women also entice them from the huts in a similar manner. The
+rate at which they travel depends, of course, on the weight they
+have to draw and the road on which their journey is performed.
+When the latter is level, and very hard and smooth, constituting
+what in other parts of North America is called "good sleighing,"
+six or seven dogs will draw from eight to ten hundred weight, at
+the rate of seven or eight miles an hour for several hours
+together, and will easily, under those circumstances, perform a
+journey of fifty or sixty miles a day; on untrodden snow,
+five-and-twenty or thirty miles would be a good day's journey.
+The same number of well-fed dogs, with a weight of only five or
+six hundred pounds (that of the sledge included), are almost
+unmanageable, and will, on a smooth road, run any way they please
+at the rate of ten miles an hour. The work performed by a greater
+number of dogs is, however, by no means in proportion to this;
+owing to the imperfect mode already described of employing the
+strength of these sturdy creatures, and to the more frequent
+snarling and fighting occasioned by an increase of numbers.</p>
+<p>In the summer, when the absence of snow precludes the use of
+sledges, the dogs are still made useful on journeys and hunting
+excursions, by being employed to carry burdens in a kind of
+saddle-bags laid across their shoulders. A stout dog thus
+accoutred will accompany his master, laden with a weight of about
+twenty or twenty-five pounds.</p>
+<p>The scent of the Esquimaux dogs is excellent; and this
+property is turned to account by their masters in finding the
+seal-holes, which these invaluable animals will discover entirely
+by the smell at a very great distance. The track of a single deer
+upon the snow will in like manner set them off at a full gallop
+when travelling, at least a quarter of a mile before they arrive
+at it, when they are with difficulty made to turn in any other
+direction; and the Esquimaux are accustomed to set them after
+those animals to hunt them down when already wounded with an
+arrow. In killing bears the dogs act a very essential part; and
+two or three of them, when led on by a man, will eagerly attack
+one of those ferocious creatures. An Esquimaux seldom uses any
+other weapon than his spear and <i>panna</i> in this encounter,
+for which the readiness of the dogs may be implied from the
+circumstance of the word "nen-nook" (bear) being often used to
+encourage them when running in a sledge. Indeed, the only animal
+which they are not eager to chase is the wolf, of which the
+greater part of them seem to have an instinctive dread, giving
+notice at night of their approach to the huts by a loud and
+continued howl. There is not one dog in twenty among them that
+will voluntarily, or, indeed, without a great deal of beating,
+take the water, if they think it is out of their depth, and the
+few that would do so were spoken of as extraordinary
+exceptions.</p>
+<p>The Esquimaux in general treat their dogs much as an unfeeling
+master does his slaves; that is, they take just as much care of
+them as their own interest is supposed to require. The bitches
+with young are in the winter allowed to occupy a part of their
+own beds, where they are carefully attended and fed by the women,
+who will even supply the young ones with meat and water from
+their mouths as they do their own children, and not unfrequently
+also carry them in their hoods to take care of them. It is
+probably on this account that the dogs are always so much
+attached to the women, who can at any time catch them or entice
+them from the huts when the men fail. Two females that were with
+young on board the Fury in the month of February, brought forth
+six and seven at a litter, and the former number were all
+females. Their feeding, which, both in summer and winter,
+principally consists of k=a~ow, or the skin and part of the
+blubber of the walrus, is during the latter season very
+precarious, their masters having then but little to spare. They
+therefore become extremely thin at that time of the year, and
+would scarcely be recognised as the same animals as when
+regularly fed in the summer. No wonder, therefore, that they will
+eat almost anything, however tough or filthy, and that neither
+whipping nor shouting will prevent their turning out of the road,
+even when going at full speed, to pick up whatever they espy.
+When at the huts they are constantly creeping in to pilfer what
+they can, and half the time of the people sitting there is
+occupied in vociferating their names, and driving them by most
+unmerciful blows out of the apartments. The dogs have no water to
+drink during the winter, but lick up some clean snow occasionally
+as a substitute; nor, indeed, if water be offered them, do they
+care about it, unless it happens to be oily. They take great
+pleasure in rolling in clean snow, especially after or during a
+journey, or when they have been confined in a house during the
+night. Notwithstanding the rough treatment which they receive
+from their masters, their attachment to them is very great, and
+this they display after a short absence by jumping up and licking
+their faces all over with extreme delight. The Esquimaux,
+however, never caress them, and, indeed, scarcely ever take any
+notice of them but when they offend, and they are not then
+sparing in their blows. The dogs have all names, to which they
+attend with readiness, whether drawing in a sledge or otherwise.
+Their names are frequently the same as those of the people, and
+in some instances are given after the relations of their masters,
+which seems to be considered an act of kindness among them. Upon
+the whole, notwithstanding the services performed by these
+valuable creatures, I am of opinion that art cannot well have
+done less towards making them useful, and that the same means in
+almost any other hands would be employed to greater
+advantage.</p>
+<p>In the disposition of these people, there was, of course,
+among so many individuals, considerable variety as to the minute
+points; but in the general features of their character, which
+with them are not subject to the changes produced by foreign
+intercourse, one description will nearly apply to all.</p>
+<p>The virtue which, as respected ourselves, we could most have
+wished them to possess, is honesty; and the impression derived
+from the early part of our intercourse was certainly in this
+respect a favourable one. A great many instances occurred, some
+of which have been related where they appeared even scrupulous in
+returning articles that did not belong to them; and this, too,
+when detection of a theft, or, at least, of the offender, would
+have been next to impossible. As they grew more familiar with us,
+and the temptations became stronger, they gradually relaxed in
+their honesty, and petty thefts were from time to time committed
+by several individuals, both male and female, among them.</p>
+<p>The bustle which any search for stolen goods occasioned at the
+huts was sufficient proof of their understanding the estimation
+in which the crime was held by us. Until the affair was cleared
+up, they would affect great readiness to show every article which
+they had got from the ships, repeating the name of the donor with
+great warmth, as if offended at our suspicions, yet with a half
+smile on their countenance at our supposed credulity in believing
+them. There was, indeed, at all times, some, trick, and cunning
+in this show of openness and candour; and they would at times
+bring back some very trifling article that had been given them,
+tendering it as a sort of expiation for the theft of another much
+more valuable. When a search was making, they would invent all
+sorts of lies to screen themselves, not caring on whom besides
+the imputation fell; and more than once they directed our people
+to the apartments of others who were innocent of the event in
+question. If they really knew the offender, they were generally
+ready enough to inform against him, and this with an air of
+affected secrecy and mysterious importance; and, as if the
+dishonesty of another constituted a virtue in themselves, they
+would repeat this information frequently, perhaps for a month
+afterward, setting up their neighbour's offence as a foil to
+their own pretended honesty.</p>
+<p>In appreciating the character of these people for honesty,
+however, we must not fail to make allowance for the degree of
+temptation to which they were daily exposed, amid the boundless
+stores of wealth which our ships appeared to them to furnish. To
+draw a parallel case, we must suppose an European of the lower
+class suffered to roam about amid hoards of gold and silver; for
+nothing less valuable can be justly compared with the wood and
+iron that everywhere presented themselves to their view on board
+the ships. The European and the Esquimaux, who, in cases so
+similar, both resist the temptation to stealing, must be
+considered pretty nearly on a par in the scale of honesty; and,
+judging in this manner, the balance might possibly be found in
+favour of the latter, when compared with any similar number of
+Europeans taken at random from the lower class.</p>
+<p>In what has been hitherto said, regard has been had only to
+their dealings with <i>us</i>. In their transactions among
+themselves, there is no doubt that, except in one or two
+privileged cases, such as that of destitute widows, the strictest
+honesty prevails, and that, as regards the good of their own
+community, they are generally honest people. We have, in
+numberless instances, sent presents by one to another, and
+invariably found that they had been faithfully delivered. The
+manner in which their various implements are frequently left
+outside their huts is a proof, indeed, that robbery is scarcely
+known among them.</p>
+<p>In the barter of their various commodities, their dealings
+with us were fair and upright, though latterly they were by no
+means backward nor inexpert in driving a bargain. The absurd and
+childish exchanges which they at first made with our people
+induced them subsequently to complain that the Kabloonas had
+stolen their things, though the profit had eventually been a
+hundred-fold in their favour. Many such complaints were made,
+when the only fault in the purchaser had been excessive
+liberality, and frequently, also, as a retort, by way of warding
+off the imputation of some dishonesty of their own. A trick not
+uncommon with the women was to endeavour to excite the
+commiseration, and to tax the bounty of one person, by relating
+some cruel theft of this kind that had, as they said, been
+practised upon them by another. One day, after I had bought a
+knife of Togolat, she told Captain Lyon, in a most piteous tone,
+that <i>Parree</i> had stolen her last <i>ooloo</i>, that she did
+not know what to do without one, and at length, coming to the
+point, begged him to give her one. Presently after this, her
+husband coming in and asking for something to eat, she handed him
+some meat, accompanied by a very fine ooloo. Her son, being thus
+reminded of eating, made the same request, upon which a second
+knife was produced, and immediately after a third of the same
+kind for herself. Captain Lyon, having amused himself in watching
+these proceedings, which so well confirmed the truth of the
+proverb, that certain people ought to have good memories, now
+took the knives, one by one, out of their hands, and, holding
+them up to Togolat, asked her if Parree had not stolen her last
+ooloo. A hearty laugh all round was the only notice taken by them
+of this direct detection of the deceit.</p>
+<p>The confidence which they really placed in us was daily and
+hourly evinced by their leaving their fishing gear stuck in the
+snow all round the ships; and not a single instance occurred, to
+my knowledge, of any theft committed on their property. The
+licking of the articles received from us was not so common with
+them as with Esquimaux in general, and this practice was latterly
+almost entirely left off by them.</p>
+<p>Among the unfavourable traits in their character must be
+reckoned an extreme disposition to envy, which displayed itself
+on various occasions during our intercourse with them. If we had
+made any presents in one hut, the inmates of the next would not
+fail to tell us of it, accompanying their remarks with some
+satirical observations, too unequivocally expressed to be
+mistaken, and generally by some stroke of irony directed against
+the favoured person. If any individual with whom we had been
+intimate happened to be implicated in a theft, the circumstance
+became a subject of satisfaction too manifest to be repressed,
+and we were told of it with expressions of the most triumphant
+exultation on every occasion. It was, indeed, curious, though
+ridiculous, to observe that, even among these simple people, and
+even in this obscure corner of the globe, that little gossip and
+scandal so commonly practised in small societies among us were
+very frequently displayed. This was especially the case with the
+women, of whom it was not uncommon to see a group sitting in a
+hut for hours together, each relating her <i>quota</i> of
+information, now and then mimicking the persons of whom they
+spoke, and interlarding their stories with jokes evidently at the
+expense of their absent neighbours, though to their own infinite
+amusement.</p>
+<p>I have already, in the course of the foregoing narrative,
+hinted at the want of gratitude evinced by these people in their
+transactions with us. Some exceptions, for they were only
+exceptions, and rare ones, to this rule, have been mentioned as
+they occurred; but in general, however considerable the benefit
+conferred, it was forgotten in a day; and this forgetfulness was
+not unfrequently aggravated by their giving out that their
+benefactor had been so shabby as to make them no present at all.
+Even those individuals who, either from good behaviour or
+superior intelligence, had been most noticed by us, and
+particularly such as had slept on board the ships, and whether in
+health or sickness had received the most friendly treatment from
+everybody, were in general just as indifferent as the rest; and I
+do not believe that any one among them would have gone half a
+mile out of his road, or have sacrificed the most trivial
+self-gratification to serve us. Okotook and Iligliuk, whom I had
+most loaded with presents, and who had never offered me a single
+free gift in return, put into my hand, at the time of their first
+removal from Winter Island, a dirty, crooked model of a spear, so
+shabbily constructed that it had probably been already refused as
+an article of barter by many of the ship's company. On my
+accepting this, from an unwillingness to affront them, they were
+uneasy and dissatisfied till I had given them something in
+return, though their hands were full of the presents which I had
+just made them. Selfishness is, in fact, almost without
+exception, their universal characteristic, and the mainspring of
+all their actions, and that, too, of a kind the most direct and
+unamiable that can well be imagined.</p>
+<p>In the few opportunities we had of putting their hospitality
+to the test, we had every reason to be pleased with them. Both as
+to food and accommodation, the best they had were always at our
+service; and their attention, both in kind and degree, was
+everything that hospitality and even good-breeding could dictate.
+The kindly offices of drying and mending our clothes, cooking our
+provision, and thawing snow for our drink, were performed by the
+women with an obliging cheerfulness which we shall not easily
+forget, and which commanded its due share of our admiration and
+esteem. While thus their guest, I have passed an evening not only
+with comfort, but with extreme gratification; for, with the women
+working and singing, their husbands quietly mending their lines,
+the children playing before the door, and the pot boiling over
+the blaze of a cheerful lamp, one might well forget for the time
+that an Esquimaux hut was the scene of this domestic comfort and
+tranquillity; and I can safely affirm with Cartwright,<a name=
+'FNanchor_011_11'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_011_11'><sup>[011]</sup></a> that, while thus lodged
+beneath their roof, I know no people whom I would more
+confidently trust, as respects either my person or my property,
+than the Esquimaux.</p>
+<p>The estimation in which women are held among these people is,
+I think, somewhat greater than is usual in savage life. In their
+general employments they are by no means the drudges that the
+wives of the Greenlander's are said to be; being occupied only in
+those cares which may properly be called domestic, and, as such,
+are considered the peculiar business of the women among the lower
+classes in civilized society. The wife of one of these people,
+for instance, makes and attends the fire, cooks the victuals,
+looks after the children, and is sempstress to her whole family;
+while her husband is labouring abroad for their subsistence. In
+this respect it is not even necessary to except their task Of
+cutting up the small seals, which is, in truth, one of the
+greatest luxuries and privileges they enjoy; and, even if it were
+esteemed a labour, it could scarcely be considered equivalent to
+that of the women in many of our own fishing-towns, where the
+men's business is at an end the moment the boat touches the
+beach. The most laborious of their tasks occur, perhaps, in
+making their various journeys, when all their goods and chattels
+are to be removed at once, and when each individual must
+undoubtedly perform a full share of the general labour. The women
+are, however, good walkers and not easily fatigued; for we have
+several times known a young woman of two-and-twenty, with a child
+in her hood, walk twelve miles to the ships and back again the
+same day, for the sake of a little bread-dust and a tin canister.
+When stationary in the winter, they have really almost a sinecure
+of it, sitting quietly in their huts, and having little or no
+employment for the greater part of the day. In short, there are
+few, if any people, in this state of society among whom the women
+are so well off. They always sit upon the beds with their legs
+doubled under them, and are uneasy in the posture usual with us.
+The men sometimes sit as we do, but more generally with their
+legs crossed before them.</p>
+<p>The women do not appear to be, in general, very prolific.
+Illumea indeed had borne seven children, but no second instance
+of an equal number in one family afterward came to our knowledge;
+three or four is about the usual number. They are, according to
+their own account, in the habit of suckling their children to the
+age of three years; but we have seen a child of five occasionally
+at the breast, though they are dismissed from the mother's hood
+at about the former age. It is not uncommon to see one woman
+suckling the child of another, while the latter happens to be
+employed in her other domestic occupations. They are in the
+habit, also, of feeding their younger children from their own
+mouths, softening the food by mastication, and then turning their
+heads round so that the infant in the hood may put its lips to
+theirs. The chill is taken from water for them in the same
+manner, and some fathers are very fond of taking their children
+on their knees and thus feeding them. The women are more desirous
+of having sons than daughters, as on the former must principally
+depend their support in old age.</p>
+<p>Twelve of the men had each two wives, and some of the younger
+ones had also two betrothed; two instances occurred of the father
+and son being married to sisters. The custom of betrothing
+children in their infancy is commonly practised here, in which
+respect these people differ from the natives of Greenland, where
+it is comparatively rare. A daughter of Arnaneelia, between two
+and three years old, had long been thus contracted to Okotook's
+son, a hero of six or seven, and the latter used to run about the
+hut calling his intended by the familiar appellation of
+<i>N~o~oll=e-~a</i> (wife), to the great amusement of the
+parents. When a man has two wives there is generally a difference
+of five or six years in their ages. The senior takes her station
+next the principal fire, which comes entirely under her
+management; and she is certainly considered in some respects
+superior to the other, though they usually live together in the
+utmost harmony. The men sometimes repudiate their wives without
+ceremony, in case of real or supposed bad behaviour as in
+Greenland, but this does not often occur. There was a
+considerable disparity of age between many of the men and their
+wives, the husband being sometimes the oldest by twenty years or
+more, and this also when he had never married any former wife. We
+knew no instance in which the number of a man's wives exceeded
+two, and, indeed, we had every reason to believe that the
+practice is never admitted among them. We met with a singular
+instance of two men having exchanged wives, in consequence merely
+of one of the latter being pregnant at the time when her husband
+was about to undertake a long journey.</p>
+<p>The authority of the husband seems to be sufficiently
+absolute, depending, nevertheless, in great measure on the
+dispositions of the respective parties. Iligliuk was one of those
+women who seem formed to manage their husbands; and we one day
+saw her take Okotook to task in a very masterly style, for having
+bartered away a good jacket for an old useless pistol, without
+powder or shot. He attempted at first to bluster in his turn, and
+with most women would probably have gained his point. But with
+Iligliuk this would not do; she saw at once the absurdity of his
+bargain, and insisted on his immediately cancelling it, which was
+accordingly done, and no more said about it. In general, indeed,
+the husband maintains his authority, and in several instances of
+supposed bad behaviour in a wife, we saw obedience enforced in a
+very summary manner. It is very rare, however, to see them
+proceed to this extremity; and the utmost extent of a husband's
+want of tenderness towards his wife consists in making her walk
+or lead the dogs, while he takes his own seat in the sledge and
+rides in comfort. Widows, as might be expected, are not so well
+off as those whose husbands are living, and this difference is
+especially apparent in their clothes, which are usually very
+dirty, thin, and ragged; when, indeed, they happen to have no
+near relatives, their fate, as we have already seen, is still
+worse than this.</p>
+<p>I fear we cannot give a very favourable account of the
+chastity of the women, nor of the delicacy of their husbands in
+this respect. As for the latter, it was not uncommon for them to
+offer their wives as freely for sale as a knife or a jacket. Some
+of the young men informed us that, when two of them were absent
+together on a sealing excursion, they often exchanged wives for
+the time, as a matter of friendly convenience; and, indeed,
+without mentioning any other instances of this nature, it may
+safely be affirmed, that in no country is prostitution carried to
+greater lengths than among these people. The behaviour of most of
+the women when their husbands were absent from the huts, plainly
+evinced their indifference towards them, and their utter
+disregard of connubial fidelity. The departure of the men was
+usually the signal for throwing aside restraint, which was
+invariably resumed on their return. For this event they take care
+to be prepared by the report of the children, one of whom is
+usually posted on the outside for the purpose of giving due
+notice.</p>
+<p>The affection of parents for their children was frequently
+displayed by these people, not only in the mere passive
+indulgence, and abstinence from corporeal punishment, for which
+Esquimaux have before been remarked, but by a thousand playful
+endearments also, such as parents and nurses practise in our own
+country. Nothing, indeed, can well exceed the kindness with which
+they treat their children, and this trait in their character
+deserves to be the more insisted on, because it is, in reality,
+the only very amiable one which they possess. It must be
+confessed, indeed, that the gentleness and docility of the
+children are such as to occasion their parents little trouble,
+and to render severity towards them quite unnecessary. Even from
+their earliest infancy they possess that quiet disposition,
+gentleness of demeanour, and uncommon evenness of temper, for
+which, in more mature age, they are for the most part
+distinguished. Disobedience is scarcely ever known; a word or
+even a look from a parent is enough; and I never saw a single
+instance of that frowardness and disposition to mischief which,
+with our youth, so often requires the whole attention of a parent
+to watch over and to correct. They never cry from trifling
+accidents, and sometimes not even from very severe hurts, at
+which an English child would sob for an hour. It is, indeed,
+astonishing to see the indifference with which, even as tender
+infants, they bear the numerous blows they accidentally receive,
+when carried at their mothers' backs.</p>
+<p>They are just as fond of play as any other young people, and
+of the same kind; only that while an English child draws a cart
+of wood, an Esquimaux of the same age has a sledge of whalebone;
+and for the superb baby-house of the former, the latter builds a
+miniature hut of snow, and begs a lighted wick from her mother's
+lamp to illuminate the little dwelling. Their parents make for
+them, as dolls, little figures of men and women, habited in the
+true Esquimaux costume, as well as a variety of other toys, many
+of them having some reference to their future occupations in
+life, such as canoes, spears, and bows and arrows. The drum or
+tambarine, mentioned by Crantz, is common among them, and used
+not only by the children, but by the grown-up people at some of
+their games. They sometimes serrate the edges of two strips of
+whalebone and whirl them round their heads, just as boys do in
+England to make the same peculiar humming sound. They will
+dispose one piece of wood on another, as an axis, in such a
+manner that the wind turns it round like the arms of a windmill;
+and so of many other toys of the same simple kind. These are the
+distinct property of the children, who will sometimes sell them,
+while their parents look on without interfering or expecting to
+be consulted.</p>
+<p>When not more than eight years old, the boys are taken by
+their fathers on their sealing excursions, where they begin to
+learn their future business; and even at that early age they are
+occasionally intrusted to bring home a sledge and dogs from a
+distance of several miles over the ice. At the age of eleven we
+see a boy with his water-tight boots and moccasins, a spear in
+his hand, and a small coil of line at his back, accompanying the
+men to the fishery, under every circumstance; and from this time
+his services daily increase in value to the whole tribe. On our
+first intercourse with them we supposed that they would not
+unwillingly part with their children, in consideration of some
+valuable present, but in this we afterward found that we were
+much mistaken. Happening one day to call myself Toolooak's
+<i>attata</i> (father), and pretend that he was to remain with me
+on board the ship, I received from the old man, his father, no
+other answer than what seemed to be very strongly and even
+satirically implied, by his taking one of our gentlemen by the
+arm and calling him <i>his</i> son; thus intimating that the
+adoption which he proposed was as feasible and as natural as my
+own.</p>
+<p>The custom of adoption is carried to very great lengths among
+these people, and served to explain to us several apparent
+inconsistencies with respect to their relationships. The custom
+owes its origin entirely to the obvious advantage of thus
+providing for a man's own subsistence in advanced life; and it is
+consequently confined almost without exception to the adoption of
+<i>sons</i>, who can alone contribute materially to the support
+of an aged and infirm parent. When a man adopts the son of
+another as his own, he is said to "<i>tego</i>," or take him; and
+at whatever age this is done (though it generally happens in
+infancy), the child then lives with his new parents, calls them
+father and mother, is sometimes even ignorant of any such
+transfer having been made, especially if his real parents should
+be dead; and whether he knows it or not, is not always willing to
+acknowledge any but those with whom he lives. The agreement seems
+to be always made between the fathers, and to differ in no
+respect from the transfer of other property, except that none can
+equal in value the property thus disposed of. The good sense,
+good fortune, or extensive claims of some individuals were
+particularly apparent in this way, from the number of sons they
+had adopted. Toolemak, deriving, perhaps, some advantage from his
+qualifications as Angetkook, had taken care to negotiate for the
+adoption of some of the finest male children of the tribe; a
+provision which now appeared the more necessary, from his having
+lost four children of his own, besides Noogloo, who was one of
+his <i>tego'd</i> sons. In one of the two instances that came to
+our knowledge of the adoption of a female child, both its own
+parents were still living, nor could we ascertain the motive for
+this deviation from the more general custom.</p>
+<p>In their behaviour to old people, whose age or infirmities
+render them useless, and, therefore, burdensome to the community,
+the Esquimaux betray a degree of insensibility bordering on
+inhumanity, and ill repaying the kindness of an indulgent parent.
+The old man Hikkeiera, who was very ill during the winter, used
+to lie day after day, little regarded by his wife, son, daughter,
+and other relatives, except that his wretched state constituted,
+as they well knew, a forcible claim upon our charity; and, with
+this view, it was sure to excite a whine of sympathy and
+commiseration whenever we visited or spoke of him. When, however,
+a journey of ten miles was to be performed over the ice, they
+left him to find his way with a stick in the best manner he
+could, while the young and robust ones were many of them drawn on
+sledges. There is, indeed, no doubt that, had their necessities
+or mode of life required a longer journey than he could thus have
+accomplished, they would have pushed on like the Indians, and
+left a fellow-creature to perish. It was certainly considered
+incumbent on his son to support him, and he was fortunate in that
+son's being a very good man; but a few more such journeys to a
+man of seventy would not impose this encumbrance upon him much
+longer. Illumea, the mother of several grown-up children, lived
+also in the same hut with her other relations. She did not,
+however, interfere, as in Greenland, with the management of her
+son's domestic concerns, though his wife was half an idiot. She
+was always badly clothed, and, even in the midst of plenty, not
+particularly well-fed, receiving everything more as an act of
+charity than otherwise; and she will probably be less and less
+attended to, in proportion as she stands more in need of
+assistance.</p>
+<p>The different families appear always to live on good terms
+with each other, though each preserves its own habitation and
+property as distinct and independent as any housekeeper in
+England. The persons living under one roof, who are generally
+closely related, maintain a degree of harmony among themselves
+which is scarcely ever disturbed. The more turbulent passions
+which, when unrestrained by religious principle, or unchecked by
+the dread of human punishment, usually create so much havoc in
+the world, seem to be very seldom excited in the breasts of these
+people, which renders personal violence or immoderate anger
+extremely rare among them; and one may sit in a hut for a whole
+day, and never observe an angry word or look, except in driving
+out the dogs. If they take an offence, it is more common for them
+to show it by the more quiet method of sulkiness, and this they
+now and then tried as a matter of experiment with us. Okotook,
+who was often in this humour, once displayed it to some of our
+gentlemen in his own hut, by turning his back and frequently
+repeating the expression "good-by," as a broad hint to them to go
+away. Toolooak was also a little given to this mood, but never
+retained it long, and there was no malice mixed with his
+displeasure. One evening that he slept on board the Fury, he
+either offended Mr. Skeoch, or thought that he had done so, by
+this kind of humour; at all events, they parted for the night
+without any formal reconciliation. The next morning Mr. Skeoch
+was awakened at an unusually early hour, by Toolooak's entering
+his cabin and taking hold of his hand to shake it, by way of
+making up the supposed quarrel. On a disposition thus naturally
+charitable, what might not Christian education and Christian
+principles effect? Where a joke is evidently intended, I never
+knew people more ready to join in it than these are. If ridiculed
+for any particularity of manner, figure, or countenance, they are
+sure not to be long behind-hand in returning it, and that very
+often with interest. If we were the aggressors in this way, some
+ironical observation respecting the <i>Kabloonas</i> was
+frequently the consequence; and no small portion of wit as well
+as irony was at times mixed with their raillery.</p>
+<p>In point of intellect as well as disposition, great variety
+was, of course, perceptible among the different individuals of
+this tribe; but few of them were wanting in that respect. Some,
+indeed, possessed a degree of natural quickness and intelligence
+which, perhaps, could hardly be surpassed in the natives of any
+country. Iligliuk, though one of the least amiable, was
+particularly thus gifted. When she really wished to develop our
+meaning, she would desire her husband and all the rest to hold
+their tongues, and would generally make it out while they were
+puzzling their heads to no purpose. In returning her answers, the
+very expression of her countenance, though one of the plainest
+among them, was almost of itself sufficient to convey her
+meaning; and there was, in these cases, a peculiarly decisive
+energy in her manner of speaking which was extremely interesting.
+This woman would, indeed, have easily learned anything to which
+she chose to direct her attention; and had her lot been cast in a
+civilized country instead of this dreary region, which serves
+alike to "freeze the genial current of the soul" and body, she
+would probably have been a very clever person. For want of a
+sufficient object, however, neither she nor any of her companions
+ever learned a dozen words of English, except our names, with
+which it was their interest to be familiar, and which, long
+before we left them, any child could repeat, though in their own
+style of pronunciation.</p>
+<p>Besides the natural authority of parents and husbands, these
+people appear to admit no kind of superiority among one another,
+except a certain degree of superstitious reverence for their
+<i>angetkooks</i>, and their tacitly following the counsel or
+steps of the most active seal-catcher on their hunting
+excursions. The word <i>nallegak</i>, used in Greenland to
+express "master," and "lord" in the Esquimaux translations of the
+Scriptures, they were not acquainted with. One of the young men
+at Winter Island appeared to be considered somewhat in the light
+of a servant to Okotook, living with the latter, and quietly
+allowing him to take possession of all the most valuable presents
+which he received from us. Being a sociable people, they unite in
+considerable numbers to form a settlement for the winter; but on
+the return of spring they again separate into several parties,
+each appearing to choose his own route, without regard to that of
+the rest, but all making their arrangements without the slightest
+disagreement or difference of opinion that we could ever
+discover. In all their movements, they seem to be actuated by one
+simultaneous feeling that is truly admirable.</p>
+<p>Superior as our arts, contrivances, and materials must
+unquestionably have appeared to them, and eager as they were to
+profit by this superiority, yet, contradictory as it may seem,
+they certainly looked upon us in many respects with profound
+contempt; maintaining that idea of self-sufficiency which has
+induced them, in common with the rest of their nation, to call
+themselves, by way of distinction, Innue, or mankind. One day,
+for instance, in securing some of the gear of a sledge, Okotook
+broke a part of it, composed of a piece of our white line, and I
+shall never forget the contemptuous sneer with which he muttered
+in soliloquy the word "Kabloona!" in token of the inferiority of
+our materials to his own. It is happy, perhaps, when people,
+possessing so few of the good things of this life, can be thus
+contented with the little allotted them.</p>
+<p>The men, though low in stature, are not wanting in muscular
+strength in proportion to their size, or in activity and
+hardiness. They are good and even quick walkers, and occasionally
+bear much bodily fatigue, wet, and cold, without appearing to
+suffer by it, much less to complain of it. Whatever labour they
+have gone through, and with whatever success in procuring game,
+no individual ever seems to arrogate to himself the credit of
+having done more than his neighbour for the general good. Nor do
+I conceive there is reason to doubt their personal courage,
+though they are too good-natured often to excite others to put
+that quality to the test. It is true, they will recoil with
+horror at the tale of an Indian massacre, and probably cannot
+conceive what should induce one set of men deliberately and
+without provocation to murder another. War is not their trade;
+ferocity forms no part of the disposition of the Esquimaux.
+Whatever manly qualities they possess are exercised in a
+different way, and put to a far more worthy purpose. They are
+fishermen, and not warriors; but I cannot call that man a coward
+who, at the age of one-and-twenty, will attack a polar bear
+single-handed, or fearlessly commit himself to floating masses of
+ice, which the next puff of wind may drift for ever from the
+shore.</p>
+<p>Of the few arts possessed by this simple people, some account
+has already been given in the description of their various
+implements. As mechanics, they have little to boast when compared
+with other savages lying under equal disadvantages as to
+scantiness of tools and materials. As carpenters, they can scarf
+two pieces of wood together, secure them with pins of whalebone
+or ivory, fashion the timbers of a canoe, shoe a paddle, and
+rivet a scrap of iron into a spear or arrow-head. Their principal
+tool is the knife (panna); and, considering the excellence of a
+great number which they possessed previous to our intercourse
+with them, the work they do is remarkably coarse and clumsy.
+Their very manner of holding and handling a knife is the most
+awkward that can be imagined. For the purpose of boring holes,
+they have a drill and bow so exactly like our own, that they need
+no farther description, except that the end of the drill handle,
+which our artists place against their breasts, is rested by these
+people against a piece of wood or bone held in their mouths, and
+having a cavity fitted to receive it. With the use of the saw
+they were well acquainted, but had nothing of this kind in their
+possession better than a notched piece of iron. One or two small
+European axes were lashed to handles in a contrary direction to
+ours, that is, to be used like an adze, a form which, according
+to the observation of a traveller<a name='FNanchor_012_12'></a><a
+href='#Footnote_012_12'><sup>[012]</sup></a> well qualified to
+judge, savages in general prefer. It was said that these people
+steamed or boiled wood, in order to bend it for fashioning the
+timbers of their canoes. As fishermen or seamen, they can put on
+a woolding or seizing with sufficient strength and security, and
+are acquainted with some of the most simple and serviceable knots
+in use among us. In all the arts, however, practised by the men,
+it is observable that the ingenuity lies in the principle, not in
+the execution. The experience of ages has led them to adopt the
+most efficacious methods, but their practice as handicrafts has
+gone no farther than absolute necessity requires; they bestow
+little labour upon neatness or ornament.</p>
+<p>In some of the few arts practised by the women there is much
+more dexterity displayed, particularly in that important branch
+of a housewife's business, sewing, which, even with their own
+clumsy needles of bone, they perform with extraordinary neatness.
+They had, however, several steel needles of a three-cornered
+shape, which they kept in a very convenient case, consisting of a
+strip of leather passed through a hollow bone, and having its
+ends remaining out, so that the needles which are stuck into it
+may be drawn in and out at pleasure. These cases were sometimes
+ornamented by cutting; and several thimbles of leather, one of
+which, in sewing, is worn on the first finger, are usually
+attached to it, together with a bunch of narrow spoons and other
+small articles liable to be lost. The thread they use is the
+sinew of the reindeer (<i>tooktoo =ew=all~o~o</i>), or, when they
+cannot procure this, the swallow-pipe of the <i>neiliek</i>. This
+may be split into threads of different sizes, according to the
+nature of their work, and is certainly a most admirable material.
+This, together with any other articles of a similar kind, they
+keep in little bags, which are sometimes made of the skin of
+birds' feet, disposed with the claws downward in a very neat and
+tasteful manner. In sewing, the point of the needle is entered
+and drawn through in a direction towards the body, and not from
+it or towards one side, as with our seamstresses. They sew the
+deerskins with a "round seam," and the water-tight boots and
+shoes are "stitched." The latter is performed in a very adroit
+and efficacious manner, by putting the needle only half through
+the substance of one part of the sealskin, so as to leave no hole
+for admitting the water. In cutting out the clothes, the women do
+it after one regular and uniform pattern, which probably descends
+unaltered from generation to generation. The skin of the deer's
+head is always made to form the <i>apex</i> of the hood, while
+that of the neck and shoulders comes down the back of the jacket;
+and so of every other part of the animal which is appropriated to
+its particular portion of the dress. To soften the sealskins of
+which the boots, shoes, and mittens are made, the women chew them
+for an hour or two together and the young girls are often seen
+employed in thus preparing the materials for their mothers. The
+covering of the canoes is a part of the women's business, in
+which good workmanship is especially necessary to render the
+whole smooth and water-tight. The skins, which are those of the
+<i>neitiek</i> only, are prepared by scraping off the hair and
+the fleshy parts with an <i>ooloo,</i> and stretching them out
+tight on a frame, in which state they are left over the lamps or
+in the sun for several days to dry; and after this they are well
+chewed by the women to make them fit for working. The dressing of
+leather and of skins in the hair, is an art which the women have
+brought to no inconsiderable degree of perfection. They perform
+this by first cleansing the skin from as much of the fat and
+fleshy matter as the <i>ooloo</i> will take off, and then rubbing
+it hard for several hours with a blunt scraper, called
+<i>si=ak~o~ot</i>, so as nearly to dry it. It is then put into a
+vessel containing urine, and left to steep a couple of days,
+after which a drying completes the process. Skins dressed in the
+hair are, however, not always thus steeped; the women, instead of
+this, chewing them for hours together till they are quite soft
+and clean. Some of the leather thus dressed looked nearly as well
+as ours, and the hair was as firmly fixed to the pelt; but there
+was in this respect a very great difference, according to the art
+or attention of the housewife. Dyeing is an art wholly unknown to
+them. The women are very expert at platting, which is usually
+done with three threads of sinew; if greater strength is
+required, several of these are twisted slackly together, as in
+the bowstrings. The quickness with which some of the women plat
+is really surprising; and it is well that they do so, for the
+quantity required for the bows alone would otherwise occupy half
+the year in completing it.</p>
+<p>It may be supposed that, among so cheerful a people as the
+Esquimaux, there are many games or sports practised; indeed, it
+was rarely that we visited their habitations without seeing some
+engaged in them. One of these our gentlemen saw at Winter Island,
+on an occasion when most of the men were absent from the huts on
+a sealing excursion, and in this Iligliuk was the chief
+performer. Being requested to amuse them in this way, she
+suddenly unbound her hair, platted it, tied both ends together to
+keep it out of her way, and then stepping out into the middle of
+the hut, began to make the most hideous faces that can be
+conceived, by drawing both lips into her mouth, poking forward
+her chin, squinting frightfully, occasionally shutting one eye,
+and moving her head from side to side as if her neck had been
+dislocated. This exhibition, which they call
+<i>=ay=ok~it-t=ak-poke</i>, and which is evidently considered an
+accomplishment that few of them possess in perfection, distorts
+every feature in the most horrible manner imaginable, and would,
+I think, put our most skilful horse-collar grinners quite out of
+countenance.</p>
+<p>The next performance consists in looking steadfastly and
+gravely forward, and repeating the words <i>t~ab=ak-tabak,
+k~eib=o-keibo, k~e-b=ang-~e-n=u-t~o-~e~ek, kebang-enutoeek,
+~am=at~am=a-amatama</i>, in the order in which they are here
+placed, but each at least four times, and always by a peculiar
+modulation of the voice, speaking them in pairs as they are
+coupled above. The sound is made to proceed from the throat in a
+way much resembling ventriloquism, to which art it is indeed an
+approach. After the last <i>amatama</i> Iligliuk always pointed
+with her finger towards her body, and pronounced the word
+<i>angetkook,</i> steadily retaining her gravity for five or six
+seconds, and then bursting into a loud laugh, in which she was
+joined by all the rest. The women sometimes produce a much more
+guttural and unnatural sound, repeating principally the word
+<i>=ikk~er~ee-ikkeree</i>, coupling them as before, and staring
+in such a manner as to make their eyes appear ready to burst out
+of their sockets with the exertion. Two or more of them will
+sometimes stand up face to face, and with great quickness and
+regularity respond to each other, keeping such exact time that
+the sound appears to come from one throat instead of several.
+Very few of the females are possessed of this accomplishment,
+which is called <i>pitkoo-she-r=ak-poke</i>, and it is not
+uncommon to see several of the younger females practising it. A
+third part of the game, distinguished by the word
+<i>keit=ik-poke</i>, consists only in falling on each knee
+alternately&mdash;a piece of agility which they perform with
+tolerable quickness, considering the bulky and awkward nature of
+their dress.</p>
+<p>The last kind of individual exhibition was still performed by
+Iligliuk, to whom in this, as in almost everything else, the
+other women tacitly acknowledged their inferiority, by quietly
+giving place to her on every occasion. She now once more came
+forward, and letting her arms hang down loosely and bending her
+body very much forward, shook herself with, extreme violence, as
+if her whole frame had been strongly convulsed, uttering at the
+same time, in a wild tone of voice, some of the unnatural sounds
+before mentioned.</p>
+<p>This being at an end, a new exhibition was commenced, in which
+ten or twelve women took a part, and which our gentlemen compared
+to blind-man's buff. A circle being formed, and a boy despatched
+to look out at the door of the hut, Iligliuk, still the principal
+actress, placed herself in the centre, and after making a variety
+of guttural noises for about half a minute, shut her eyes and ran
+about till she had taken hold of one of the others, whose
+business it then became to take her station in the centre, so
+that almost every woman in her turn occupied this post; and in
+her own peculiar way, either by distortion of countenance or
+other gestures, performed her part in the game. This continued
+three quarters of an hour; and, from the precaution of placing a
+look-out, who was withdrawn when it was over, as well as from
+some very expressive signs which need not here be mentioned,
+there is reason to believe that it is usually followed by certain
+indecencies, with which their husbands are not to be acquainted.
+Kaoongut was present, indeed, on this occasion, but his age
+seemed to render him a privileged person; besides which, his own
+wife did not join in the game.</p>
+<p>The most common amusement, however, and to which their
+husbands made no objection, they performed at Winter Island
+expressly for our gratification. The females being collected to
+the number of ten or twelve, stood in as large a circle as the
+hut would admit, with Okotook in the centre. He began by a sort
+of half howling, half singing noise, which appeared as if
+designed to call the attention of the women, the latter soon
+commencing the <i>Amna Aya</i> song hereafter described. This
+they continued without variety, remaining quite still while
+Okotook walked round within the circle; his body was rather bent
+forward, his eyes sometimes closed, his arms constantly moving up
+and down, and now and then hoarsely vociferating a word or two,
+as if to increase the animation of the singers, who, whenever he
+did this, quitted the chorus and rose into the words of the song.
+At the end of ten minutes they all left off at once, and after
+one minute's interval commenced a second act precisely similar
+and of equal duration; Okotook continuing to invoke their muse as
+before. A third act, which followed this, varied only in his
+frequently, towards the close, throwing his feet up before and
+clapping his hands together, by which exertion he was thrown into
+a violent perspiration. He then retired, desiring a young man
+(who, as we were informed, was the only individual of several
+then present thus qualified) to take his place in the centre as
+master of the ceremonies, when the same antics as before were
+again gone through. After this description it will scarcely be
+necessary to remark, that nothing can be poorer in its way than
+this tedious singing recreation, which, as well as everything in
+which dancing is concerned, they express by the word
+m~om=ek-poke. They seem, however, to take great delight in it;
+and even a number of men, as well as all the children, crept into
+the hut by degrees to peep at the performance.</p>
+<p>The Esquimaux women and children often amuse themselves with a
+game not unlike our "skip-rope." This is performed by two women
+holding the ends of a line, and whirling it regularly round and
+round, while a third jumps over it in the middle, according to
+the following order. She commences by jumping twice on both feet,
+then alternately with the right and left, and next four times
+with the feet slipped one behind the other, the rope passing once
+round at each jump. After this she performs a circle on the
+ground, jumping about half a dozen times in the course of it,
+which bringing her to her original position, the same thing is
+repeated as often as it can be done without entangling the line.
+One or two of the women performed this with considerable agility
+and adroitness, considering the clumsiness of their boots and
+jackets, and seemed to pride themselves, in some degree, on the
+qualification. A second kind of this game consists in two women
+holding a long rope by its ends, and whirling it round in such a
+manner, over the heads of two others standing close together near
+the middle of the bight, that each of these shall jump over it
+alternately. The art, therefore, which is indeed considerable,
+depends more on those whirling the rope than on the jumpers, who
+are, however, obliged to keep exact time, in order to be ready
+for the rope passing under their feet.</p>
+<p>The whole of these people, but especially the women, are fond
+of music, both vocal and instrumental. Some of them might be said
+to be passionately so, removing their hair from off their ears,
+and bending their heads forward, as if to catch the sounds more
+distinctly, whenever we amused them in this manner. Their own
+music is entirely vocal, unless, indeed, the drum and tambarine
+before mentioned be considered an exception.</p>
+<p>The voices of the women are soft and feminine, and, when
+singing with the men, are pitched an octave higher than theirs.
+They have most of them so far good ears, that, in whatever key a
+song is commenced by one of them, the rest will always join in
+perfect unison. After singing for ten minutes, the key had
+usually fallen a full semitone. Only two of them, of whom
+Iligliuk was one, could catch the tune as pitched by an
+instrument, which made it difficult with most of them to complete
+the writing of the notes; for if they once left off they were
+sure to recommence in some other key, though a flute or violin
+was playing at the time.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<p>During the season passed at Winter Island, which appears to
+have been a healthy one with the Esquimaux, we had little
+opportunity of becoming acquainted with the diseases to which
+they are subject. Our subsequent intercourse with a great number
+of these people at Igloolik having unfortunately afforded more
+frequent and fatal instances of sickness among them, I here
+insert Mr. Edwards's remarks on this subject.</p>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>"Our first communication with these people at Winter Island
+gave us a more favourable impression of their general health than
+subsequent experience confirmed. There, however, they were not
+free from sickness. A catarrhal affection, in the month of
+February, became generally prevalent, from which they readily
+recovered after the exciting causes, intemperance and exposure to
+wet, had ceased to operate. A solitary instance of pleurisy also
+occurred, which probably might have ended fatally but for timely
+assistance. Our intercourse with them in the summer was more
+interrupted; but at our occasional meetings they were observed to
+be enjoying excellent health. It is probable that their certain
+supplies of food, and the nomade kind of life they lead in its
+pursuit during that season, are favourable to health. Nutrition
+goes on actively, and an astonishing increase of strength and
+fulness is acquired. Active diseases might now be looked for, but
+that the powers of nature are providentially exerted with
+effect.</p>
+<p>"The unlimited use of stimulating animal food, on which they
+are from infancy fed, induces at an early age a highly plethoric
+state of the vascular system. The weaker, over-distended vessels
+of the nose quickly yield to the increased impetus of the blood,
+and an active hemorrhage relieves the subject. As the same causes
+continue to be applied in excess at frequent intervals, and are
+followed by similar effects, a kind of vicarious hemorrhage at
+length becomes established by habit; superseding the intervention
+of art, and having no small share in maintaining a balance in the
+circulating system. The phenomenon is too constant to have
+escaped the observation of those who have visited the different
+Esquimaux people; a party of them has, indeed, rarely been seen,
+that did not exhibit two or three instances of the fact.</p>
+<p>"About the month of September, the approach of winter induced
+the Esquimaux at Igloolik to abandon their tents and to retire
+into their more established village. The majority were here
+crowded into huts of a permanent construction, the materials
+composing the sides being stones and the bones of whales, and the
+roofs being formed of skins, turf, and snow; the rest of the
+people were lodged in snow huts. For a while they continued very
+healthy; in fact, as long as the temperature of the interior did
+not exceed the freezing point, the vapours of the atmosphere
+congealed upon the walls, and the air remained dry and tolerably
+pure; besides, their hard-frozen winter stock of walrus did not
+at this time tempt them to indulge their appetites immoderately.
+In January the temperature suffered an unseasonable rise; some
+successful captures of walrus also took place; and these
+circumstances, combined perhaps with some superstitious customs
+of which we were ignorant, seemed the signal for giving way to
+sensuality. The lamps were accumulated, and the kettles more
+frequently replenished; and gluttony, in its most disgusting
+form, became for a while the order of the day. The Esquimaux were
+now seen wallowing in filth, while some, surfeited, lay stretched
+upon their skins, enormously distended, and with their friends
+employed in rolling them about, to assist the operations of
+oppressed nature. The roofs of their huts were no longer
+congealed, but dripping with wet and threatening speedy
+dissolution. The air was, in the bone huts, damp, hot, and beyond
+sufferance offensive with putrid exhalations from the decomposing
+relics of offals or other animal matter permitted to remain from
+year to year undisturbed in these horrible sinks.</p>
+<p>"What the consequences might have been had this state of
+affairs long continued, it is not difficult to imagine; but,
+fortunately for them, an early and gradual dispersion took place,
+so that by the end of January few individuals were left in the
+village. The rest, in divided bodies, established themselves in
+snow huts upon the sea-ice at some distance from the land. Before
+this change had been completed, disorders of an inflammatory
+character had appeared. A few went away sick, some were unable to
+remove, and others taken ill upon the ice, and we heard of the
+death of several about this period.</p>
+<p>"Their distance from the ships at once precluded any effectual
+assistance being rendered them at their huts, and their removal
+on board with safety; the complaints of those who died at the
+huts, therefore, did not come under observation. It appears,
+however, to have been acute inflammation of some of the abdominal
+viscera, very rapid in its career. In the generality, the disease
+assumed a more insidious and sub-acute form, under which the
+patient lingered for a while, and was then either carried off by
+a diarrhoea, or slowly recovered by the powers of nature. Three
+or four individuals, who, with some risk and trouble, were
+brought to the ships, we were providentially instrumental in
+recovering; but two others, almost helpless patients, were so far
+exhausted before their arrival, that the endeavours used were
+unsuccessful, and death was probably hastened by their
+removal.</p>
+<p>"That affection of the eyes known by the name of
+snow-blindness, is extremely frequent among these people. With
+them it scarcely ever goes beyond painful irritation, while among
+strangers inflammation is sometimes the consequence. I have not
+seen them use any other remedy besides the exclusion of light;
+but, as a preventive, a wooden eye-screen is worn, very simple in
+its construction, consisting of a curved piece of wood, six or
+seven inches long, and ten or twelve lines broad. It is tied over
+the eyes like a pair of spectacles, being adapted to the forehead
+and nose, and hollowed out to favour the motion of the eyelids. A
+few rays of light only are admitted through a narrow slit an inch
+long, cut opposite to each eye.</p>
+<p>"There are, upon the whole, no people more destitute of
+curative means than these. With the exception of the hemorrhage
+already mentioned, which they duly appreciate, and have been
+observed to excite artificially to cure headache, they are
+ignorant of any rational method of procuring relief. It has not
+been ascertained that they use a single herb medicinally. As
+prophylactics, they wear amulets, which are usually the teeth,
+bones, or hair of some animal, the more rare apparently the more
+valuable. In absolute sickness they depend entirely upon their
+Angekoks, who, they persuade themselves, have influence over some
+submarine deities who govern their destiny. The mummeries of
+these impostors, consisting in pretended consultations with their
+oracles, are looked upon with confidence, and their mandates,
+however absurd, superstitiously submitted to. These are
+constituted of unmeaning ceremonies and prohibitions generally
+affecting the diet, both in kind and mode, but never in quantity.
+Seal's flesh is forbidden, for instance, in one disease, that of
+the walrus in the other; the heart is denied to some, and the
+liver to others. A poor woman, on discovering that the meat she
+had in her mouth was a piece of fried heart instead of liver,
+appeared horror-struck; and a man was in equal tribulation at
+having eaten, by mistake, a piece of meat cooked in his wife's
+kettle.</p>
+<p>"Personal deformity from malconformation is uncommon; the only
+instance I remember being that of a young woman, whose utterance
+was unintelligibly nasal, in consequence of an imperfect
+development of the palatine bones leaving a gap in the roof of
+the mouth."</p>
+</div>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<p>Whatever may be the abundance sometimes enjoyed by these
+people, and whatever the maladies occasioned by their too
+frequent abuse of it, it is certain that they occasionally suffer
+very severely from the opposite extreme. A remarkably intelligent
+woman informed Captain Lyon, that two years ago some Esquimaux
+arrived at Igloolik from a place near <i>Akkoolee</i>, bringing
+information that, during a very grievous famine, one party of men
+had fallen upon another and killed them; and that they afterward
+subsisted on their flesh, while in a frozen state, but never
+cooked or even thawed it. This horrible account was soon after
+confirmed by Toolemak on board the Fury; and though he was
+evidently uneasy at our having heard the story, and conversed
+upon it with reluctance, yet, by means of our questions, he was
+brought to name, upon his fingers, five individuals who had been
+killed upon this occasion. Of the fact, therefore, there can be
+no doubt; but it is certain, also, that we ourselves scarcely
+regarded it with greater horror than those who related it; and
+the occurrence may be considered similar to those dreadful
+instances on record, even among civilized nations, of men
+devouring one another, in wrecks or boats, when rendered
+desperate by the sufferings of actual starvation.</p>
+<p>The ceremony of crying, which has before been mentioned as
+practised after a person's death, is not, however, altogether
+confined to those melancholy occasions, but is occasionally
+adopted in cases of illness, and that of no very dangerous kind.
+The father of a sick person enters the apartment, and, after
+looking at him a few seconds without speaking, announces by a
+kind of low sob his preparation for the coming ceremony. At this
+signal every other individual present composes his features for
+crying, and the leader of the chorus then setting up a loud and
+piteous howl, which lasts about a minute, is joined by all the
+rest, who shed abundant tears during the process. So decidedly is
+this a matter of form, unaccompanied by any feeling of sorrow,
+that those who are not relatives shed just as many tears as those
+that are; to which may be added, that in the instances which we
+saw there was no real occasion for crying at all. It must,
+therefore, be considered in the light of a ceremony of
+condolence, which it would be either indecorous or unlucky to
+omit.</p>
+<p>I have already given several instances of the little care
+these people take in the interment of their dead, especially in
+the winter season; it is certain, however, that this arises from
+some superstitious notion, and particularly from the belief that
+any heavy weight upon the corpse would have an injurious effect
+upon the deceased in a future state of existence; for even in the
+summer, when it would be an easy matter to secure a body from the
+depredations of wild animals, the mode of burial is not
+essentially different. The corpse of a child observed by
+Lieutenant Palmer, he describes "as being laid in a regular but
+shallow grave, with its head to the northeast. It was decently
+dressed in a good deerskin jacket, and a sealskin prepared
+without the hair was carefully placed as a cover to the whole
+figure, and tucked in on all sides. The body was covered with
+flat pieces of limestone, which, however, were so light that a
+fox might easily have removed them. Near the grave were four
+little separate piles of stones, not more than a foot in height,
+in one of which we noticed a piece of red cloth and a black silk
+handkerchief, in a second a pair of child's boots and mittens,
+and in each of the others a whalebone pot. The face of the child
+looked unusually clean and fresh, and a few days could only have
+elapsed since its decease."</p>
+<p>These Esquimaux do not appear to have any idea of the
+existence of One Supreme Being, nor indeed can they be said to
+entertain any notions on this subject which may be dignified with
+the name of Religion. Their superstitions, which are numerous,
+have all some reference to the preternatural agency of a number
+of <i>to=orng~ow</i> or spirits, with whom, on certain occasions,
+the <i>Angetkooks</i> pretend to hold mysterious intercourse, and
+who, in various and distinct ways, are supposed to preside over
+the destinies of the Esquimaux. On particular occasions of
+sickness or want of food, the Angetkooks contrive, by means of a
+darkened hut, a peculiar modulation of the voices and the
+uttering of a variety of unintelligible sounds, to persuade their
+countrymen that they are descending to the lower regions for this
+purpose, where they force the spirits to communicate the desired
+information. The superstitious reverence in which these wizards
+are held, and a considerable degree of ingenuity in their mode of
+performing their mummery, prevent the detection of the imposture,
+and secure implicit confidence in these absurd oracles. Some
+account of their ideas repecting death, and of their belief in a
+future state of existence, has already been introduced in the
+course of the foregoing pages, in the order of those occurrences
+which furnished us with opportunities of observing them.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<a name='b004_2'></a>
+<h2><a href='#b004'>NARRATIVE<br>
+ OF<br>
+ AN ATTEMPT TO REACH THE<br>
+ NORTH POLE,</a></h2>
+<br>
+<h3>IN BOATS FITTED FOR THE PURPOSE,<br>
+AND ATTACHED TO HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP HECLA,<br>
+<br>
+IN THE YEAR 1827.</h3>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<h2>NARRATIVE</h2>
+<a name='a001'></a>
+<h3><a href='#a001_2'>INTRODUCTION.</a></h3>
+<br>
+
+<p>In April, 1826, I proposed to the Right Honourable Viscount
+Melville, first lord commissioner of the Admiralty, to attempt to
+reach the North Pole by means of travelling with sledge-boats
+over the ice, or through any spaces of open water that might
+occur. My proposal was soon afterward referred to the president
+and council of the Royal Society, who strongly recommended its
+adoption; and an expedition being accordingly directed to be
+equipped for this purpose, I had the honour of being appointed to
+the command of it; and my commission for his majesty's ship the
+Hecla, which was intended to carry us to Spitzbergen, was dated
+the 11th of November, 1826.</p>
+<p>Two boats were constructed at Woolwich, under my
+superintendence, after an excellent model suggested by Mr. Peake,
+and nearly resembling what are called "troop-boats," having great
+flatness of floor, with the extreme breadth carried well forward
+and aft, and possessing the utmost buoyancy, as well as capacity
+for stowage. Their length was twenty feet, and their extreme
+breadth seven feet. The timbers were made of tough ash and
+hickory, one inch by half an inch square, and a foot apart, with
+a "half-timber" of smaller size between each two. On the outside
+of the frame thus formed was laid a covering of Macintosh's
+water-proof canvass, the outer part being covered with tar. Over
+this was placed a plank of fir, only three sixteenths of an inch
+thick; then a sheet of stout felt; and, over all, an oak plank of
+the same thickness as the fir; the whole of these being firmly
+and closely secured to the timbers by iron screws applied from
+without. The following narrative will show how admirably the
+elasticity of this mode of construction was adapted to withstand
+the constant twisting and concussion to which the boats were
+subject.<a name='FNanchor_013_13'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_013_13'><sup>[013]</sup></a> On each side of the keel,
+and projecting considerably below it, was attached a strong
+"runner," shod with smooth steel, in the manner of a sledge, upon
+which the boat entirely rested while upon the ice; and, to afford
+some additional chance of making progress on hard and level
+fields, we also applied to each boat two wheels, of five feet
+diameter, and a small one abaft, having a swivel for steering by,
+like that of a Bath chair; but these, owing to the irregularities
+of the ice, did not prove of any service, and were subsequently
+relinquished. A "span" of hide-rope was attached to the forepart
+of the runners, and to this were affixed two strong ropes of
+horse-hair, for dragging the boat: each individual being
+furnished with a broad leathern shoulder-belt, which could
+readily be fastened to or detached from the drag-ropes. The
+interior arrangement consisted only of two thwarts; a locker at
+each end for the nautical and other instruments, and for the
+smaller stores; and a very slight framework along the sides for
+containing the bags of biscuit and our spare clothes. A bamboo
+mast nineteen feet long, a tanned duck sail, answering also the
+purpose of an awning, a spreat, one boat-hook, fourteen paddles,
+and a steer-oar, completed each boat's equipment.</p>
+<p>Two officers and twelve men (ten of the latter being seamen,
+and two marines) were selected for each boat's crew. It was
+proposed to take with us resources for ninety days; to set out
+from Spitzbergen, if possible, about the beginning of June; and
+to occupy the months of June, July, and August in attempting to
+reach the Pole and returning to the ship; making an average
+journey of thirteen miles and a half per day. Our provisions
+consisted of biscuit of the best wheaten flour; beef
+<i>pemmican</i>;<a name='FNanchor_014_14'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_014_14'><sup>[014]</sup></a> sweetened cocoa-powder,
+and a small proportion of rum, the latter concentrated to
+fifty-five per cent. above proof, in order to save weight and
+stowage. The proper instruments were provided, both by the
+Admiralty and the Board of Longitude, for making such
+observations as might be interesting in the higher latitudes, and
+as the nature of the enterprise would permit. Six pocket
+chronometers, the property of the public, were furnished for this
+service; and Messrs. Parkinson and Frodsham, with their usual
+liberality, intrusted to our care several other excellent
+watches, on trial, at their own expense.</p>
+<p>Annexed is a list of the different articles composing the
+equipment of the boats, together with the actual weight of
+each.</p>
+<br>
+
+<pre>
+                                                        Enter-      Endeav-
+                                                        prise       our
+                                                        lbs.        lbs.
+Boat .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .     . 1539        1542
+Bamboo mast, 1 spreat, 1 boat-hook, 1 steer-oar.     .   46-1/2      46-1/2
+Fourteen paddles .     .     .     .     .     .     .   41          41
+Sail (or awning) .     .     .     .     .     .     .   22          22
+Spare rope and line    .     .     .     .     .     .    6           6
+Small sounding line (750 fathoms in all) .     .     .    8          10
+Carpenters' tools, screws, nails, &amp;c.    .     .     .   10          10
+Copper and felt for repairs  .     .     .     .     .   19          19
+Four fowling pieces,with 2 bayonets.     .     .     .   15          15
+Small articles for guns.     .     .     .     .     .   --           4
+Ammunition .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .   17-1/2      17-1/2
+Instruments.     .     .     .     .     .     .     .   29          29
+Books.     .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .    7           5-1/2
+S {                                                  .
+p {Fur Suits for sleeping in (14 in each boat) .     .  162         162
+a {Thick-nailed boots (14 in each boat)  .     .     .   47          47
+r {Esquimaux do., with spare soles (14 in each       .
+e {  boat  .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .   33          33
+C {Flannel shirts (7 in each boat) .     .     .     .    8-3/4       8-3/4
+l {Guernsey frocks (do. do.) .     .     .     .     .   11-1/2      11-1/2
+o {Thick drawers   (do. do.)       .     .     .     .   14          14
+t {Mittens (28 in each boat) .     .     .     .     .    5           5
+h {Comforters (14 in each boat)    .     .     .     .    1           1
+e {Scotch caps (do. do.)     .     .     .     .     .    4           4
+s {
+A bag of small articles for the officers,            .
+  including soap, &amp;c., &amp;c.   .     .     .     .     .    4           4
+Do. do. for the men   do.    .     .     .     .     .   12          12
+Biscuit    .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .  628         628
+Pemmican   .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .  564         564
+Rum        .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .  180         180
+Cocoa powder, sweetened.     .     .     .     .     .   63          63
+Salt .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .   14          14
+Spirits of Wine  .     .     .     .     .     .     .   72          72
+Cooking apparatus.     .     .     .     .     .     .   --          20
+Tobacco    .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .   20          20
+Medicine chest                                       .   19          --
+Pannikins, knife, fork, and spoon (14 in each boat)  .    5           5
+Weighing-dials and measures                          .    2           2
+Various small articles for repairs, &amp;c., not mentioned
+above                                                    14          --
+Packages for provisions, clothes, &amp;c                    110         116
+                                                        ----       ----
+                                                    14)3753 1/4    3753 3/4
+                    Weight, per man                     268 lbs.
+Exclusive of four sledges, weighing 26 lbs. each.
+</pre>
+<p>I have not thought it necessary, in the course of this volume,
+to enter into any examination of the question respecting the
+approaches to the North Pole which had already been effected
+previous to our late attempt. I shall, therefore, only add that,
+after carefully weighing the various authorities, from which
+every individual interested in this matter is at liberty to form
+his own conclusions, my own impartial conviction, at the time of
+our setting out on this enterprise, coincided (with a single
+exception) with the opinion expressed by the Commissioners of
+Longitude in their memorial to the king, that "the progress of
+discovery had not arrived northward, according to any
+well-authenticated accounts, so far as eighty-one degrees of
+north latitude." The exception to which I allude is in favour of
+Mr. Scoresby, who states his having, in the year 1806, reached
+the latitude of 81&deg; 12' 42" by actual observation, and
+81&deg; 30' by dead reckoning. I therefore consider the latter
+parallel as, in all probability, the highest which had ever been
+attained prior to the attempt recorded in the following
+pages.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<br>
+
+<p>The Hecla being ready to proceed down the river, she was taken
+in tow, at ten A.M. on the 25th of March, 1827, by the Lightning
+steam-vessel; and having received and returned the cheers of the
+Greenwich pensioners, the children of the Naval Asylum, and of
+various ships in the river, she made fast to the moorings at
+Northfleet at three P.M. The following day was occupied in
+swinging the ship round on the various points of the compass, in
+order to obtain the amount of the deviation of the magnetic
+needle produced by the attraction of the ship's iron, and to fix
+Mr. Barlow's plate for correcting it.<a name=
+'FNanchor_015_15'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_015_15'><sup>[015]</sup></a> On the 3d of April the
+ship's company received three months' wages in advance, together
+with their river-pay; and on the following morning, at half past
+four, we weighed and made sail from the Nore.</p>
+<p>We had at this time remarkably fine weather for the season of
+the year, and such a continuance of southerly winds that we
+arrived off the island of Soroe, within which Hammerfest lies, on
+the 17th, without having had occasion to make a tack till we
+entered the fiord which forms the northern entrance.</p>
+<p>The wind becoming light from the southward, and very variable,
+we were occupied the whole of the 18th in beating up towards
+Hammerfest. In the evening a Lapland boat came on board, and one
+of the men undertook to pilot the ship to the anchorage, which,
+after beating all night against an ebb tide, we reached at three
+A.M. on the 19th. Finding that our reindeer had not arrived, I
+immediately despatched Lieutenant Crozier, in one of our own
+boats, to Alten, from whence they were expected&mdash;a distance
+of about sixty English miles. At the same time, we landed our
+observatories and instruments at Fugleness, near the
+establishment of Messrs. Crowe and Woodfall, the British
+merchants residing here; and Lieutenant Foster and myself
+immediately commenced our magnetic and other observations, which
+were continued during the whole of our stay here. We completed
+our supply of water, and obtained a small quantity of venison,
+with abundance of good fish (principally torsk and cod), and some
+milk. We also purchased a set of snow-shoes for our travelling
+party, together with the Lapland shoes of leather (called
+Kamooga<a name='FNanchor_016_16'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_016_16'><sup>[016]</sup></a>), which are the most
+convenient and comfortable for wearing with them; and we
+practised our people in the manner of walking in them in deep
+snow, which afforded them fine exercise and amusement.</p>
+<p>On the 23d, Lieutenant Crozier returned in the boat from
+Alten, and was followed the next day by Mr. Wooodfall, who
+brought with him eight reindeer for our use, together with a
+supply of moss for their provender (<i>cenomyce rangiferina</i>).
+As, however, the latter required a great deal of picking, so as
+to render it fit to carry with us over the ice, and as it was
+also necessary that we should be instructed in the manner of
+managing the deer, I determined on remaining a day or two longer
+for these purposes. Nothing can be more beautiful than the
+training of the Lapland reindeer. With a simple collar of skin
+round his neck, a single trace of the same material attached to
+the "pulk" or sledge, and passing between his legs, and one rein,
+fastened like a halter about his neck, this intelligent and
+docile animal is perfectly under the command of an experienced
+driver, and performs astonishing journeys over the softest snow.
+When the rein is thrown over on the off side of the animal, he
+immediately sets off at a full, trot, and stops short the instant
+it is thrown back to the near side. Shaking the rein over his
+back is the only whip that is required. In a short time after
+setting off, they appear to be gasping for breath, as if quite
+exhausted; but, if not driven too fast at first, they soon
+recover this, and then go on without difficulty. <a name=
+'a003'></a><a href='#a003_2'>The quantity of <i>clean</i> moss
+considered requisite for each deer per day is four pounds;</a>
+but they will go five or six days without provender, and not
+suffer materially. As long as they can pick up snow as they go
+along, which they like to eat quite clean, they require no water;
+and ice is to them a comfortable bed. It may well be imagined,
+with such qualifications, how valuable these animals seemed
+likely to prove to us; and the more we became accustomed, and, I
+may say, attached to them, the more painful became the idea of
+the necessity which was likely to exist, of ultimately having
+recourse to them as provision for ourselves.</p>
+<p>Our preparations were completed on the 27th, but the wind
+continuing fresh from the northwestern quarter in the offing, we
+had no prospect of making any progress till the morning of the
+29th, when we weighed at six A.M.</p>
+<p>On the 5th of May, being in latitude 73&deg; 30', and
+longitude 7&deg; 28' E., we met with the first straggling mass of
+ice, after which, in sailing about 110 miles in a N.N.W.
+direction, there was always a number of loose masses in sight;
+but it did not occur in continuous "streams" till the morning of
+the 7th, in latitude 74&deg; 55', a few miles to the eastward of
+the meridian of Greenwich. On the 10th several whalers were in
+sight, and Mr. Bennett, the master of the Venerable, of Hull,
+whom we had before met in Baffin's Bay in 1818, came on board.
+From him I learned that several of the ships had been in the ice
+since the middle of April, some of them having been so far to the
+westward as the island of Jan Mayen, and that they were now
+endeavouring to push to the northward. They considered the ice to
+offer more obstacles to the attainment of this object than it had
+done for many years past.<a name='FNanchor_017_17'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_017_17'><sup>[017]</sup></a> None of the ships had yet
+taken a single whale, which, indeed, they never expect to do to
+the southward of about 78&deg;.</p>
+<p>In the afternoon, after waiting for some time for the ice to
+open, we again entered it, in company with all the whalers, and
+by the following morning had succeeded in pushing about fifty
+miles farther to the northward, though not without some heavy
+blows in "boring" through the ice.</p>
+<p>At five A.M. on the 14th we passed Magdalena Bay, and by ten
+o'clock had arrived off Hakluyt's Headland, round which we hauled
+to the southeastward, to look, for anchorage in Smerenburg
+Harbour. In this, however, we were disappointed, the whole place
+being occupied by one unbroken floe of ice, still firmly attached
+to the land on each side. Here we made fast, though not without
+considerable difficulty; the wind, which was now freshening from
+the southward, blowing in such violent and irregular gusts off
+the high land that the ship was scarcely manageable. Walruses,
+dovekies, and eider-ducks were very numerous here, especially the
+former; and four reindeer came down upon the ice near the
+ship.</p>
+<p>We now prepared a quantity of provisions and other stores to
+land at Hakluyt's Headland, as a supply for my party on our
+return from the northward; so that, in case of the ship being
+obliged to go more to the southward, or of our not being able at
+once to reach her, we should be furnished with a few days'
+resources of every kind. Our intentions were, however, frustrated
+for the present; for we had scarcely secured our hawsers, when a
+hard gale came on from the southward, threatening every moment to
+snap them in two, and drive us from our anchorage. We held on for
+several hours, till, at nine P.M., some swell having set in upon
+the margin of the ice, it began to break off and drift away.
+Every possible exertion was instantly made to shift our stream
+cable farther in upon the floe; but it broke away so quickly as
+to baffle every endeavour, and at ten the ship went adrift, the
+wind blowing still harder than before. Having hauled in the
+hawsers and got the boats on board, we set the close-reefed
+topsails, to endeavour to hang to windward; but the wind blew in
+such tremendous gusts from the high land as almost to lay the
+ship on her beam-ends; so that we were obliged to reduce our
+canvass to the main topsail and stormsails, and let her drive to
+leeward.<a name='FNanchor_018_18'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_018_18'><sup>[018]</sup></a> The situation of the ship
+now appeared a very precarious one, the wind still blowing with
+unabated violence, and with every appearance of a continuance of
+stormy weather. Under these circumstances, it was the general
+opinion of the officers, as well as my own, that it was advisable
+to take advantage of the comparatively smooth water within the
+stream of ice, and to run the ship into the pack, rather than
+incur the risk of having to do the same thing in a heavy sea.
+This plan succeeded remarkably well; a tolerably smooth and open
+part of the margin being selected, the ship was forced into it at
+three A.M., when, after encountering a few severe blows from the
+heavy washed pieces which always occur near the sea-edge, she was
+gradually carried onward under all sail, and at four A.M. we got
+into a perfectly smooth and secure situation, half a mile within
+the margin of a "pack."</p>
+<p>It was impossible not to consider ourselves highly fortunate
+in having thus early, and with no great difficulty, succeeded in
+reaching the highest latitude to which it was our object to take
+the ship. But, from what we had already seen at Smerenburg, it
+was also impossible not to feel much anxiety as to the prospect
+of getting her into any secure harbour before the proper time of
+my departure to the northward should arrive. However, we could
+only wait patiently for the result of a few more days; and, in
+the mean time, everybody was busily employed in completing the
+arrangements for our departure, so that, if an opportunity did
+offer of securing the ship, we might have nothing else to attend
+to. Our deer were in good order, having been thriving well ever
+since they came on board; they make excellent sailors, and do not
+seem to mind bad weather, always lying down quite comfortable
+whenever there is any sea.</p>
+<p>In order to try what our chances were, at the present low
+temperature, of procuring water upon the ice without expense of
+fuel, we laid a black painted canvass cloth, and also a piece of
+black felt, upon the surface of the snow; the temperature of the
+atmosphere being from 18&deg; to 23&deg;. These substances had,
+in a couple of hours, sunk half an inch into the snow, but no
+water could be collected. I was desirous, also, of ascertaining
+whether any part of the real sea-ice was so entirely fresh when
+melted as to be drunk without injury or inconvenience. For this
+purpose we cut a block of ice from a large hummock, about ten
+feet high above the sea; and having broken, pounded, and melted
+it, without any previous washing, we found it, both by the
+hydrometer and by the chemical test (nitrate of silver),
+<i>more</i> free from salt than any which we had in our tanks,
+and which was procured from Hammerfest. I considered this
+satisfactory, because, in the autumn, the pools of water met with
+upon the ice generally become very brackish, in consequence of
+the sea-water being drawn up into them by capillary action as the
+ice becomes more "rotten" and porous; and we might, therefore,
+have to depend chiefly on melted ice for our daily supply.</p>
+<p>No change took place till the 21st, when, on the weather
+clearing up, we found that the open water we had left to the
+westward was now wholly closed up, and that there was none
+whatever in sight. It was now also so close in-shore, that on the
+22d, Lieutenant Ross, with a party of officers and men, succeeded
+in landing without difficulty. They found a small floe of level
+ice close to the beach, which appeared very lately formed.
+Walking up to a little conspicuous eminence near the eastern end
+of the beach, they found it to be composed of clay-slate, tinged
+of a brownish red colour. The few uncovered parts of the beach
+were strewed with smooth schistose fragments of the same mineral,
+and in some parts a quantity of thin slates of it lay closely
+disposed together in a vertical position. On the little hillock
+were two graves, bearing the dates of 1741 and 1762 on some of
+the stones which marked them, and a considerable quantity of fir
+driftwood lay upon the beach.</p>
+<p>I now clearly saw that there was, for the present, no
+reasonable prospect of our getting towards any harbour; and I
+could not but feel confident that, even if we did get to the
+entrance of any, some time must be occupied in securing the ship.
+It may be well imagined how anxious I had now become to delay no
+longer in setting out upon the main object of the expedition. I
+felt that a few days at the commencement of the season, short as
+it is in these regions, might be of great importance as to the
+result of our enterprise, while the ship seemed to be so far
+secure from any immediate danger as to justify my leaving her,
+with a reduced crew, in her present situation. The nature of the
+ice was, beyond all comparison, the most unfavourable for our
+purpose that I remember to have ever seen. It consisted only of
+loose pieces, scarcely any of them fifteen or twenty yards
+square; and when any so large did occur, their, margins were
+surrounded by the smaller ones, thrown up by the recent pressure
+into ten thousand various shapes, and presenting high and sharp
+angular masses at every other step. The men compared it to a
+stone-mason's yard, which, except that the stones were of ten
+times the usual dimensions, it indeed very much resembled. The
+only inducement to set out over such a road was the certainty
+that floes and fields lay beyond it, and the hope that they were
+not <i>far</i> beyond it. In this respect, indeed, I considered
+our present easterly position as a probable advantage, since the
+ice was much less likely to have been disturbed to any great
+extent northward in this meridian than to the westward clear of
+the land, where every southerly breeze was sure to be making
+havoc among it. Another very important advantage in setting off
+on this meridian appeared to me to be, that, the land of
+Spitzbergen lying immediately over against the ice, the latter
+could never drift so much or so fast to the southward as it might
+farther to the westward.</p>
+<p>Upon these grounds it was that I was anxious to make an
+attempt, at least, as soon as our arrangements could be
+completed; and the officers being of the same opinion as myself,
+we hoisted out the boats early in the morning of the 27th, and,
+having put the things into one of them, endeavoured, by way of
+experiment, to get her to a little distance from the ship. Such
+however, were the irregularities of the ice, that, even with the
+assistance of an additional party of men, it was obvious that we
+could not have gained a single mile in a day, and, what was still
+more important, not without almost certain and serious injury to
+the boats by their striking against the angular masses. Under
+these circumstances, it was but too evident to every one that it
+would have been highly imprudent to persist in setting out,
+since, if the ice, after all, should clear away, even in a week,
+so as to allow us to get a few miles nearer the main body, time
+would be ultimately saved by our delay, to say nothing of the
+wear and tear, and expense of our provisions. I was, therefore,
+very reluctantly compelled to yield to this necessity, and to
+order the things to be got on board again.</p>
+<p>Immediately after we had, on the 27th, proved experimentally
+the extreme difficulty of transporting our boats and stores over
+the ice which now surrounded us, I made up my mind to the very
+great probability there seemed to be of the necessity of adopting
+such alterations in our original plans as would accommodate them
+to these untoward circumstances at the outset. The boats forming
+the main impediment, not so much on account of their absolute
+weight as from the difficulty of managing so large a body upon a
+road of this nature, I made preparations for the possible
+contingency of our having to take only one, continuing the same
+number of men in our whole party. All that I saw reason to
+apprehend from having only a single boat on our outward journey,
+was some occasional delay in ferrying over spaces of water in two
+trips instead of one; but we considered that this would be much
+more than compensated by the increased rate at which we should go
+whenever we were upon the ice, as we expected to be nine days out
+of ten. The principal disadvantage, therefore, consisted in our
+not all being able to sleep in the boat, and this we proposed to
+obviate in the following manner.</p>
+<p>We constructed out of the Lapland snow-shoes fourteen sledges,
+each sledge consisting of two pairs well fastened together. Upon
+these we proposed dragging almost all the weight, so as to keep
+the boat nearly without any cargo in her, as we found by
+experiment that a man could drag about three hundred pounds on
+one of the sledges with more facility than he could drag the boat
+when his proportion did not exceed one hundred pounds. Upon these
+sledges we proposed lodging half our party alternately each
+night, placing them under the lee of the boat, and then
+stretching over them, as a sloped roof, a second awning, which we
+fitted for the purpose. Upon this plan we likewise could afford
+to make our boat considerably stronger, adding some stout iron
+knees to the supports of her runners, and increasing our store of
+materials for repairing her. The weight reduced by this
+arrangement would have been above two thousand pounds, without
+taking away any article conducive to our comfort, except the boat
+and her gear. I proposed to the officers and men who had been
+selected to accompany me this change in our equipment; and I need
+scarcely say that they all clearly saw the probable necessity of
+it, and cheerfully acquiesced in its adoption, if requisite.</p>
+<p>On the 29th I sent Lieutenants Foster and Crozier, with the
+greater part of the ship's company, and with a third or spare
+travelling-boat, to endeavour to land her on Red Beach, together
+with a quantity of stores, including provisions, as a deposite
+for us on our return from the northward, should it so happen, as
+was not improbable, that we should return to the eastward. It is
+impossible to describe the labour attending this attempt. Suffice
+it to say, that, after working for fourteen hours, they returned
+on board at midnight, having accomplished about four miles out of
+the six. The next day they returned to the boat, and, after
+several hours' exertion, landed her on the beach with the stores.
+What added to the fatigue of this service was the necessity of
+taking a small boat to cross pools of water on their return, so
+that they had to drag this boat both ways, besides that which
+they went to convey. Having, however, had an opportunity of
+trying what could be done upon a regular and level floe which lay
+close to the beach, everybody was of opinion, as I had always
+been, that we could easily travel twenty miles a day on ice of
+that kind.</p>
+<p>It will not be wondered at if the apparent hopelessness of
+getting the ship free for the present again suggested the
+necessity of my own setting out: and I had once more, on the 1st
+of June, after an anxious consultation with my officers, resolved
+on making a second attempt, when the ice near us, which had
+opened at regular hours with the tide for three or four days
+past, began to set us much more rapidly than usual to the
+eastward, and towards a low point which runs off from Red Beach,
+near its western end, causing us to shoal the water in a few
+hours from fifty-two to twenty fathoms, and on the following
+morning to fourteen and a half. By sending a lead-line over the
+ice a few hundred yards beyond us, we found ten fathoms water.
+However unfavourable the aspect of our affairs seemed before,
+this new change could not fail to alter it for the worse. The
+situation of the ship now, indeed, required my whole attention;
+for the ice occasionally opened and shut within twenty or
+twenty-five yards of us on the in-shore side, the ship herself
+was still very firmly imbedded by the turned up masses which
+pressed upon her on the 19th, and which, on the other side, as
+well as ahead and astern, were of considerable extent. Thus she
+formed, as it were, part of a floe, which went drifting about in
+the manner above described. This was of little importance while
+she was in sixty fathoms of water, as she was for the first
+fourteen days of our besetment, and a distance of five or six
+miles from the land; but now that she had shoaled the water so
+considerably, and approached the low point within two or three
+miles, it became a matter of importance to try whether any labour
+we could bestow upon it would liberate the ship from her present
+imbedded state, so as to be at least ready to take advantage of
+slack water, should any occur, to keep her off the shore. All
+hands were therefore set to work with handspikes, capstan-bars,
+and axes, it being necessary to detach every separate mass,
+however small, before the larger ones could be moved. The
+harassing and laborious nature of this operation is such as
+nothing but experience can possibly give an idea of, especially
+when, as in this case, we had only a small pool of clear water
+near the margin in which the detached pieces could be floated
+out. However, we continued at work, with only the necessary
+intermissions for rest and meals, during this and the two
+following days, and on the evening of the 3d had accomplished all
+that the closeness of the ice would permit; but the ship was
+still by no means free, numberless masses of ice being doubled
+under her, even below her keel, which could not be moved without
+more space for working.</p>
+<p>Painful as was this protracted delay in setting out upon the
+principal object of the expedition, the absolute necessity of it
+will scarcely, I think, be doubted by any person conversant in
+such matters. So long as the ship continued undisturbed by the
+ice, nearly stationary, and in deep water, for several days
+together, I had, in my anxiety to lose not a moment's time,
+ventured to flatter myself with the hope that, in a case of such
+unlooked-for emergency, when every moment of our short and
+uncertain season was of importance, I might be justified in
+quitting my ship at sea; and in this opinion the zeal of my
+officers, both those who were to accompany me and those who were
+to remain on board, induced them unanimously to concur. But the
+case was now materially altered; for it had become plain to every
+seaman in the ship, first, that the safety of the Hecla, if thus
+left with less than half her working hands, could not be reckoned
+upon for an hour; and, secondly, that no human foresight could
+enable us to conjecture, should we set out while she was thus
+situated, when or where we should find her on our return. In
+fact, it appeared to us at this time, as indeed it was, a very
+providential circumstance, that the impracticable nature of the
+ice for travelling had offered no encouragement to persevere in
+my original intention of setting out a week before this time.</p>
+<p>For the two following days we continued closely beset, but
+still driving to the eastward across the mouth of Weyde Bay,
+which is here six or seven miles in breadth, and appeared to be
+very deep, the land in the centre receding to a distance of full
+eight leagues. In the afternoon of the 6th, we had driven within
+five miles of a point of land, beyond which, to the eastward, it
+seemed to recede considerably; and this appearing to answer
+tolerably to the situation of Muscle or Mussel Bay, as laid down
+in most of the charts, I was very anxious to discover whether we
+could here find shelter for the ship. A lane of water leading
+towards the land at no great distance from us, I hauled a boat
+over the ice and then rowed on shore, accompanied by Lieutenant
+Foster and some of the other officers, taking with me another
+small store of provisions, to be deposited here, as a future
+resource for my party, should we approach this part of the
+coast.</p>
+<p>Landing at half past six P.M., and leaving Mr. Bird to bury
+the provisions, Lieutenant Foster and myself walked without delay
+to the eastward, and, on ascending the point, found that there
+was, as we had supposed, an indentation in the coast on the other
+side. We now began to conceive the most flattering hopes of
+discovering something like a harbour for the ship, and pushed on
+with all possible haste to examine the place farther; but, after
+three hours walking, were much mortified, on arriving at its
+head, to find that it was nothing but an open bay, entirely
+exposed to the inroads of all the northern ice, and therefore
+quite unfit for the ship. We returned to the boat greatly
+disappointed, and reached the Hecla at 1.30 A.M. on the 7th.</p>
+<p>I do not remember to have ever experienced in these regions
+such a continuance of beautiful weather as we now had, during
+more than three weeks that we had been on the northern coast of
+Spitzbergen. Day after day we had a clear and cloudless sky,
+scarcely any wind, and, with the exception of a few days previous
+to the 23d of May, a warm temperature in the shade, and quite a
+scorching sun. On the 3d of June we had a shower of rain, and on
+the 6th it rained pretty hard for two or three hours. After the
+1st of June we could procure abundance of excellent water upon
+the ice, and by the end of the first week the floe-pieces were
+looking blue with it in some parts, and the snow had everywhere
+become too soft to bear a man's weight.</p>
+<p>On the 7th, the ship, still closely beset, had drifted much
+more to the eastward, being within a mile of the spot where the
+provisions had been deposited the preceding evening. There was
+now no other ice between us and the land except the floe to which
+we had been so long attached; and round this we were occasionally
+obliged to warp, whenever a little slackening of the ice
+permitted, in order to prevent our getting too near the rocks. In
+this situation of suspense and anxiety we still remained until
+the evening of the 8th, when a breeze at length springing up from
+the southward began to open out the ice from the point near which
+we lay. As soon as the channel was three or four hundred yards
+wide, we warped into the clear water, and, making sail, rounded
+the point in safety, having no soundings with twenty fathoms, at
+one third of a mile from a small rocky islet lying off it. In the
+mean time the wind had been driving the ice so fast off the land
+as to form for us a clear communication with the open water
+before seen to the eastward; and thus we were at length liberated
+from our confinement, after a close and tedious "besetment" of
+twenty-four days.</p>
+<p>The weather continued so thick, that, impatient as we were to
+stand in towards the eastern land, we could not venture to do so
+till eleven A.M. on the 10th, when we made sail towards
+Brandywine Bay, the wind being now from the W.S.W., or nearly
+dead upon that shore. The weather clearing up at 1.15 P.M., we
+saw the eastern land, and soon after discovered the grounded ice
+off Low Island; Walden's Island was also plainly in sight to the
+N.E. The bay seemed deeply indented, and very likely to afford
+nooks such as we wanted; and where so large a space of open
+water, and, consequently, some sea, had been exerting its
+influence for a considerable time, we flattered ourselves with
+the most sanguine hopes of now having access to the shores,
+sufficiently near, at least, for sawing into some place of
+shelter. How, then, shall I express our surprise and
+mortification in finding that the whole of the coast, from the
+islands northward to Black Point, and apparently also as far as
+Walden's Island, was rendered inaccessible by one continuous and
+heavy floe, everywhere attached to the shores, and to the
+numberless grounded masses about the island, this immense barrier
+being in some places six or seven miles in width, and not less
+than twelve feet in thickness near the margin.</p>
+<p>The prospect from our masthead at this time was certainly
+enough to cast a damp over every sanguine expectation I had
+formed, of being <i>soon</i> enabled to place the Hecla in
+security; and more willingly than ever would I, at this period,
+have persuaded myself, if possible, that I should be justified in
+quitting her at sea. Such, however, was the nature of this
+navigation, as regarded the combined difficulties arising from
+ice and a large extent of shoal and unsurveyed ground, that, even
+with our full complement of officers and men on board, all our
+strength and exertions might scarcely have sufficed, in a single
+gale of wind, to keep the ship tolerably secure, and much less
+could I have ensured placing her ultimately in any proper
+situation for picking up an absent party; for, if once again
+beset, she must, of course, be at the mercy of the ice. The
+conclusion was, therefore, irresistibly forced upon my mind, that
+thus to leave the ship would be to expose her to imminent and
+certain peril, rendering it impossible to conjecture where we
+should find her on our return, and, therefore, rashly to place
+all parties in a situation from which nothing but disaster could
+reasonably be expected to ensue.</p>
+<p>After beating through much ice, which was all of the drift or
+broken kind, and had all found its way hither in the last two
+days, we got into an open space of water in-shore, and about six
+miles to the northward of Low Island; and on the morning of the
+13th stretched in towards Walden Island, around which we found,
+as we had feared, a considerable quantity of fixed ice. It was
+certainly much less here, than elsewhere; but the inner, or
+eastern side of the island was entirely enveloped by it.</p>
+<p>Having from twenty-six to twenty-four fathoms at the distance
+of four miles from Walden Island, I was preparing two boats, with
+the intention of going to sound about its northern point, which
+was the most clear of ice, and not without a faint hope of
+finding something like shelter there; but I was prevented by a
+thick fog coming on. Continuing, therefore, to beat to the
+northward, we passed occasionally a good deal of drift ice, but
+with every appearance of much clear water in that direction; and
+the weather clearing about midnight, we observed in latitude
+80&deg;43'32". The Seven Islands were in sight to the eastward,
+and the "Little Table Island" of Phipps bore E.N.E. (true)
+distant about nine or ten miles. It is a mere craggy rock,
+rising, perhaps, from four to five hundred feet above the level
+of the sea, and with a small low islet lying off its northern
+end. This island, being the northernmost known land in the world,
+naturally excited much of our curiosity; and bleak, and barren,
+and rugged as it is, one could not help gazing at it with intense
+interest.</p>
+<p>At midnight on the 14th we had reached the latitude
+81&deg;5'32" Our longitude by chronometers at this time was
+19&deg; 34' E., Little Table Island bearing S. 26&deg; E. (true),
+distant six or seven leagues, and Walden Island S. 4&deg; E.<a
+name='FNanchor_019_19'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_019_19'><sup>[019]</sup></a> The depth of water was
+ninety-seven fathoms, on a bottom of greenish mud; and the
+temperature at ninety-five fathoms, by Six's thermometer, was
+29.8&deg;, that at the surface being 31&deg;, and of the air
+28&deg;. All that could here be seen to the northward was loose
+drift-ice. To the northeast it was particularly open, and I have
+no doubt that we might have gone many miles farther in that
+direction, had it not been a much more important object to keep
+the ship free than to push her to the northward.</p>
+<p>We now stood back again to the southward, in order again to
+examine the coast wherever we could approach it; but found, on
+the 15th, that none of the land was at all accessible, the wind
+having got round to the W.N.W., and loaded all the shores with
+drift-ice.</p>
+<p>Walden Island being the first part clear of the loose ice, we
+stretched in for it on the 16th, and, when within two miles,
+observed that about half that space was occupied by land-ice,
+even on its northwestern side, which was the only accessible one,
+the rest being wholly enclosed by it. However, being desirous of
+obtaining a better view than our crow's-nest commanded, and also
+of depositing here a small quantity of provisions, I left the
+ship at one P.M., accompanied by Lieutenant Foster in a second
+boat, and, landing upon the ice, walked over about three quarters
+of a mile of high and rugged hummocks to the shore. Ascending two
+or three hundred feet, we had a clear and extensive view of the
+Seven Islands, and of some land far beyond them to the eastward;
+and the whole sea was covered with one unbroken land-floe,
+attached to all the shores extending from the island where we
+stood, and which formed an abutment for it each way along the
+land as far as the eye could reach. After this discouraging
+prospect, which wholly destroyed every hope of finding a harbour
+among the Seven Islands, we returned to the place where the men
+had deposited the provisions, and, after making the necessary
+observations for the survey, returned immediately on board.</p>
+<p>Observing from the island that the sea was perfectly clear to
+the northward, we now stood for Little Table Island, with some
+slight hope that the rock off its northern end might afford
+shelter for the ship; at all events, being the most exposed, on
+account of its situation, it was the most likely to be free from
+ice. A thick fog prevented our getting near it till the morning
+of the 17th, when, having approached it within a mile and a half,
+I sent Lieutenant Ross on shore to a little islet, which was
+quite free from ice, where he deposited another small store of
+provisions, but found nothing like shelter for the ship.</p>
+<p>Having no farther business here, and the easterly wind still
+continuing, I thought the best thing we could do would be to run
+again to the southward of Low Island, and try once more to
+approach the shores about the entrance of the Waygatz Strait. We
+therefore bore up under all sail to the southwest.</p>
+<p>It would be vain to deny that I had lately begun to entertain
+the most serious apprehensions as related to the accomplishment
+of our principal object. The 17th of June had now arrived, and
+all that we saw afforded us the most discouraging prospect as to
+our getting the Hecla into harbour; while every day's experience
+showed how utterly rash a measure it would be to think of
+quitting her in her present situation, which, even with all her
+officers and men, was one of extreme precariousness and
+uncertainty.</p>
+<p>On the evening of the 18th, while standing in for the high
+land to the eastward of Verlegen Hook, which, with due attention
+to the lead, may be approached with safety, we perceived from the
+crow's-nest what appeared a low point, possibly affording some
+shelter for the ship, and which seemed to answer to an
+indentation of the coast laid down in an old Dutch chart, and
+there called <i>Treurenburg Bay</i>.</p>
+<p>On the following morning I proceeded to examine the place,
+accompanied by Lieutenant Ross in a second boat, and, to our
+great joy, found it a considerable bay, with one part affording
+excellent landlocked anchorage and, what was equally fortunate,
+sufficiently clear of ice to allow the ship to enter. Having
+sounded the entrance and determined on the anchorage, we returned
+to the ship to bring her in; and I cannot describe the
+satisfaction which the information of our success communicated to
+every individual on board. The main object of our enterprise now
+appeared almost within our grasp, and everybody seemed anxious to
+make up, by renewed exertions, for the time we had unavoidably
+lost. The ship was towed and warped in with the greatest
+alacrity, and at 1.40 A.M. on June 20th, we dropped the anchor in
+Hecla Cove, in thirteen fathoms, on a bottom of very tenacious
+blue clay, and made some hawsers fast to the land-ice, which
+still filled all the upper part of the bay. After resting a few
+hours, we sawed a canal a quarter of a mile in length, through
+which the ship was removed into a better situation, a bower-cable
+taken on shore and secured to the rocks, and an anchor, with the
+chain-cable, laid out the other way. On the morning of the 21st
+we hauled the launch up on the beach, it being my intention to
+direct such resources of every kind to be landed as would render
+our party wholly independent of the ship, either for returning to
+England or for wintering, in case of the ship being driven to sea
+by the ice; a contingency against which, in these regions, no
+precaution can altogether provide. I directed Lieutenant Foster,
+upon whom the charge of the Hecla was now to devolve, to land
+without delay the necessary stores, keeping the ship seaworthy by
+taking in an equal quantity of ballast; and, as soon as he should
+be satisfied of her security from ice, to proceed on the survey
+of the eastern coast; but, should he see reason to doubt her
+safety with a still farther diminution of her crew to relinquish
+the survey, and attend exclusively to the ship. I also gave
+directions that notices should be sent, in the course of the
+summer, to the various stations where our depots of provisions
+were established, acquainting me with the situation and state of
+the ship, and giving me any other information which might be
+necessary for my guidance on our return from the northward. These
+and other arrangements being completed, I left the ship at five
+P.M. with our two boats, which we named the Enterprise and
+Endeavour, Mr. Beverly being attached to my own, and Lieutenant
+Ross, accompanied by Mr. Bird, in the other. Besides these, I
+took Lieutenant Crozier in one of the ship's cutters, for the
+purpose of carrying some of our weight as far as Walden Island,
+and also a third store of provisions to be deposited on Low
+Island, as an intermediate station between Walden Island and the
+ship. As it was still necessary not to delay our return beyond
+the end of August, the time originally intended, I took, with me
+only seventy-one days provisions; which, including the boats and
+every other article, made up a weight of 268 lbs. per man; and as
+it appeared highly improbable, from what we had seen of the very
+rugged nature of the ice we should first have to encounter, that
+either the reindeer, the snow-shoes, or the wheels would prove of
+any service for some time to come, I gave up the idea of taking
+them. We, however, constructed out of the snow-shoes four
+excellent sledges for dragging a part of our baggage over the
+ice; and these proved of invaluable service to us, while the rest
+of the things just mentioned would only have been an
+encumbrance.</p>
+<p>Having received the usual salutation of three cheers from
+those we left behind, we paddled through a quantity of loose ice
+at the entrance of the bay, and then steered, in a perfectly open
+sea, and with calm and beautiful weather, for the western part of
+Low Island, which we reached at half past two on the morning of
+the 22d.</p>
+<p>Having deposited the provisions, we set off at four A.M.,
+paddling watch and watch, to give the people a little rest. It
+was still quite calm; but there being much ice about the island,
+and a thick fog coming on, we were several hours groping our way
+clear of it. The walruses were here very numerous, lying in herds
+upon the ice, and plunging into the water to follow us as we
+passed. The sound they utter is something between bellowing and
+very loud snorting, which, together with their grim, bearded
+countenances and long tusks, makes them appear, as indeed they
+are, rather formidable enemies to contend with. Under our present
+circumstances, we were very well satisfied not to molest them,
+for they would soon have destroyed our boats if one had been
+wounded; but I believe they are never the first to make the
+attack. We landed upon the ice still attached to Walden Island at
+3.30 A.M. on the 23d. Our flat-bottomed boats rowed heavily with
+their loads, but proved perfectly safe, and very comfortable. The
+men being much fatigued, we rested here some hours, and, after
+making our final arrangements with Lieutenant Crozier, parted
+with him at three in the afternoon, and set off for Little Table
+Island. Finding there was likely to be so much open water in this
+neighbourhood in the autumn, I sent directions to Lieutenant
+Foster to have a spare boat deposited at Walden Island in time
+for our return, in case of any accident happening to ours.</p>
+<p>The land-ice, which still adhered to the Seven Islands, was
+very little more broken off than when the Hecla had been here a
+week before; and we rowed along its margin a part of the way to
+Little Table Island, where we arrived at ten P.M. We here
+examined and re-secured the provisions left on shore, having
+found our dep&ocirc;t at Walden Island disturbed by the bears.
+The prospect to the northward at this time was very favourable,
+there being only a small quantity of loose ice in sight; and the
+weather still continuing calm and clear, with the sea as smooth
+as a mirror, we set off without delay, at half past ten, taking
+our final leave of the Spitzbergen shores, as we hoped, for at
+least two months. Steering due north, we made good progress, our
+latitude by the sun's meridian altitude at midnight being 80&deg;
+51' 13". A beautifully-coloured rainbow appeared for some time,
+without any appearance of rain falling. We observed that a
+considerable current was setting us to the eastward just after
+leaving the land, so that we had made a N.N.E. course, distance
+about ten miles, when we met with some ice, which soon becoming
+too close for farther progress, we landed upon a high hummock to
+obtain a better view. We here perceived that the ice was close to
+the northward, but to the westward we discovered some open water,
+which we reached after two or three hours' paddling, and found it
+a wide expanse, in which we sailed to the northward without
+obstruction, a fresh breeze having sprung up from the S.W. The
+weather soon after became very thick, with continued snow,
+requiring great care in looking out for the ice, which made its
+appearance after two hours' run, and gradually became closer,
+till at length we were stopped by it at noon, and obliged to haul
+the boats upon a small floe-piece, our latitude by observation
+being 81&deg; 12' 51".</p>
+<p>Our plan of travelling being nearly the same throughout this
+excursion, after we first entered upon the ice, I may at once
+give some account of our usual mode of proceeding. It was my
+intention to travel wholly at night, and to rest by day, there
+being, of course, constant daylight in these regions during the
+summer season. The advantages of this plan, which was
+occasionally deranged by circumstances, consisted, first, in our
+avoiding the intense and oppressive glare from the snow during
+the time of the sun's greatest altitude, so as to prevent, in
+some degree, the painful inflammation in the eyes called "snow
+blindness," which is common in all snowy countries. We also thus
+enjoyed greater warmth during the hours of rest, and had a better
+chance of drying our clothes; besides which, no small advantage
+was derived from the snow being harder at night for travelling.
+The only disadvantage of this plan was, that the fogs were
+somewhat more thick by night than by day, though even in this
+respect there was less difference than might have been supposed,
+the temperature during the twenty-four hours undergoing but
+little variation. This travelling by night and sleeping by day so
+completely inverted the natural order of things, that it was
+difficult to persuade ourselves of the reality. Even the officers
+and myself, who were all furnished with pocket chronometers,
+could not always bear in mind at what part of the twenty-four
+hours we had arrived; and there were several of the men who
+declared, and I believe truly, that they, never knew night from
+day during the whole excursion.<a name='FNanchor_020_20'></a><a
+href='#Footnote_020_20'><sup>[020]</sup></a></p>
+<p>When we rose in the evening, we commenced our day by prayers,
+after which we took off our fur sleeping-dresses and put on those
+for travelling; the former being made of camlet, lined with
+racoon-skin, and the latter of strong blue box-cloth. We made a
+point of always putting on the same stockings and boots for
+travelling in, whether they dried during the day or not; and I
+believe it was only in five or six instances, at the most, that
+they were not either wet or hard-frozen. This, indeed, was of no
+consequence, beyond the discomforture of first putting them on in
+this state, as they were sure to be thoroughly wet in a quarter
+of an hour after commencing our journey; while, on the other
+hand, it was of vital importance to keep dry things for sleeping
+in. Being "rigged" for travelling, we breakfasted upon warm cocoa
+and biscuit, and, after stowing the things in the boats and on
+the sledges, so as to secure them as much as possible from wet,
+we set off on our day's journey, and usually travelled from five
+to five and a half hours, then stopped an hour to dine, and again
+travelled four, five, or even six hours, according to
+circumstances. After this we halted for the night, as we called
+it, though it was usually early in the morning, selecting the
+largest surface of ice we happened to be near for hauling the
+boats on, in order to avoid the danger of its breaking up by
+coming in contact with other masses, and also to prevent drift as
+much as possible. The boats were placed close alongside each
+other, with their sterns to the wind, the snow or wet cleared out
+of them, and the sails, supported by the bamboo masts and three
+paddles, placed over them as awnings, an entrance being left at
+the bow. Every man then immediately put on dry stockings and fur
+boots, after which we set about the necessary repairs of boats,
+sledges, or clothes; and, after serving the provisions for the
+succeeding day, we went to supper. Most of the officers and men
+then smoked their pipes, which served to dry the boats and
+awnings very much, and usually raised the temperature of our
+lodgings 10&deg; or 15&deg;. This part of the twenty-four hours
+was often a time, and the only one, of real enjoyment to us; the
+men told their stories and "fought all their battles o'er again,"
+and the labours of the day, unsuccessful as they too often were,
+were forgotten. A regular watch was set during our resting-time,
+to look out for bears or for the ice breaking up round us, as
+well as to attend to the drying of the clothes, each man
+alternately, taking this duty for one hour. We then concluded our
+day with prayers, and, having put on our fur-dresses, lay down to
+sleep with a degree of comfort, which perhaps few persons would
+imagine possible under such circumstances; our chief
+inconvenience being that we were somewhat pinched for room, and
+therefore obliged to stow rather closer than was quite agreeable.
+The temperature, while we slept, was usually from 36&deg; to
+45&deg;, according to the state of the external atmosphere; but
+on one or two occasions in calm and warm weather, it rose as high
+as 60&deg; to 66&deg;, obliging us to throw off a part of our
+fur-dress. After we had slept seven hours, the man appointed to
+boil the cocoa roused us when it was ready by the sound of a
+bugle, when we commenced our day in the manner before
+described.</p>
+<p><a name='a002'></a><a href='#a002_2'>Our allowance of
+provisions for each man per day was as follows:</a></p>
+<br>
+<pre>
+Biscuit                 10 ounces.
+Pemmican                 9 ounces.
+Sweetened Cocoa Powder   1 ounce, to make one pint.
+Rum                      1 gill.
+Tobacco                  3 ounces per week.
+</pre>
+<p>Our fuel consisted entirely of spirits of wine, of which two
+pints formed our daily allowance, the cocoa being cooked in an
+iron boiler over a shallow iron lamp, with seven wicks; a simple
+apparatus, which answered our purpose remarkably well. We usually
+found one pint of the spirits of wine sufficient for preparing
+our breakfast, that is, for heating twenty-eight pints of water,
+though it always commenced from the temperature of 32&deg;. If
+the weather was calm and fair, this quantity of fuel brought it
+to the boiling point in about an hour and a quarter; but more
+generally the wicks began to go out before it had reached.
+200&deg;. This, however, made a very comfortable meal to persons
+situated as we were. Such, with very little variation, was our
+regular routine during the whole of this excursion.</p>
+<p>We set off on our first journey over the ice at ten P.M. on
+the 24th, Table Island bearing S.S.W., and a fresh breeze blowing
+from W.S.W., with thick fog, which afterward changed to rain. The
+bags of pemmican were placed upon the sledges, and the bread in
+the boats, with the intention of securing the latter from wet;
+but this plan we were soon obliged to relinquish. We now
+commenced upon very slow and laborious travelling, the pieces of
+ice being of small extent and very rugged, obliging us to make
+three journeys, and sometimes four, with the boats and baggage,
+and to launch several times across narrow pools of water. We
+stopped to dine at five A.M. on the 25th, having made, by our log
+(which we kept very carefully, marking the courses by compass,
+and estimating the distances), about two miles and a half of
+northing; and, again setting forward, proceeded till eleven A.M.,
+when we halted to rest; our latitude, by observation at noon,
+being 81&deg; 15' 13".</p>
+<p>Setting out again at half past nine in the evening, we found
+our way to lie over nothing but small, loose, rugged masses of
+ice, separated by little pools of water, obliging us constantly
+to launch and haul up the boats, each of which operations
+required them to be unloaded, and occupied nearly a quarter of an
+hour. It came on to rain very hard on the morning of the 26th;
+and, finding we were making very little progress (having advanced
+not more than half a mile in four hours), and that our clothes
+would be soon wet through, we halted at half past one, and took
+shelter under the awnings. The weather improving at six o'clock,
+we again moved forward, and travelled till a quarter past eleven,
+when we hauled the boats upon the only tolerably large floe-piece
+in sight. The rain had very much increased the quantity of water
+lying upon the ice, of which nearly half the surface was now
+covered with numberless little ponds of various shapes and
+extent. It is a remarkable fact, that we had already experienced,
+in the course of this summer, more rain than during the whole of
+seven previous summers taken together, though passed in latitudes
+from 7&deg; to 15&deg; lower than this. A great deal of the ice
+over which we passed to-day presented a very curious appearance
+and structure, being composed, on its upper surface, of
+numberless irregular, needle-like crystals, placed vertically,
+and nearly close together; their length varying, in different
+pieces of ice, from five to ten inches, and their breadth in the
+middle about half an inch, but pointed at both ends. The upper
+surface of ice having this structure sometimes looks like
+greenish velvet; a vertical section of it, which frequently
+occurs at the margin of floes, resembles, while it remains
+compact, the most beautiful satin-spar, and asbestos when falling
+to pieces. At this early part of the season, this kind of ice
+afforded pretty firm footing; but, as the summer advanced, the
+needles became more loose and moveable, rendering it extremely
+fatiguing to walk over them, besides cutting our boots and feet,
+on which account the men called them "penknives."</p>
+<p>We pursued our journey at half past nine P.M., with the wind
+at N.E., and thick weather, the ice being so much in motion as to
+make it very dangerous to cross in loaded boats, the masses being
+all very small. On this account we halted at midnight, having
+waded three quarters of a mile through water from two to five
+inches deep upon the ice. The thermometer was at 33&deg;.</p>
+<p>At seven A.M. on the 28th, we came to a floe covered with high
+and rugged hummocks, which opposed a formidable obstacle to our
+progress, occurring in two or three successive tiers, so that we
+had no sooner crossed one than another presented itself. Over one
+of these we hauled the boats with extreme difficulty by a
+"standing pull," and the weather being then so thick that we
+could see no pass across the next tier, we were obliged to stop
+at nine A.M. While performing this laborious work, which required
+the boats to be got up and down places almost perpendicular,
+James Parker, my coxswain, received a severe contusion in his
+back, by the boat falling upon him from a hummock, and the boats
+were constantly subject to very heavy blows, but sustained no
+damage.<a name='FNanchor_021_21'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_021_21'><sup>[021]</sup></a> The weather continued
+very foggy during the day, but a small lane of water opening out
+at no great distance from the margin of the floe, we launched the
+boats at eight in the evening among loose drift-ice, and, after
+some time, landed on a small floe to the eastward, the only one
+in sight, with the hope of its leading to the northward. It
+proved so rugged that we were obliged to make three, and
+sometimes four journeys with the boats and provisions, and this
+by a very circuitous route; so that the road, by which we made a
+mile of northing, was full a mile and a half in length, and over
+this we had to travel at least five, and sometimes seven times.
+Thus, when we halted to dine at two A.M., after six hours' severe
+toil, and much risk to the men and boats, we had only
+accomplished about a mile and a quarter in a N.N.E. direction.
+After dining we proceeded again till half past six, and then
+halted, very much fatigued with our day's work, and having made
+two miles and a half of northing. We were here in latitude, by
+account, 81&deg; 23", and in longitude, by the chronometers,
+21&deg; 32' 34" E., in which situation the variation of the
+magnetic needle was observed to be 15&deg; 31' westerly. We now
+enjoyed the first sunshine since our entering the ice, and a
+great enjoyment it was, after so much thick and wet weather. We
+rose at half past four P.M., in the hopes of pursuing our
+journey; but, after hauling the boats to the edge of the floe,
+found such a quantity of loose, rugged ice to the northward of
+us, that there was no possibility, for the present, of getting
+across or through it. Observing a small opening at 10.30 P.M., we
+launched the boats, and hauled them across several pieces of ice,
+some of them being very light and much decayed. Our latitude, by
+the sun's meridian altitude at midnight, was 81&deg; 23'; so that
+we had made only eight miles of northing since our last
+observation at noon on the 25th.</p>
+<p>The 30th commenced with snowy and inclement weather, which
+soon rendered the atmosphere so thick that we could no longer see
+our way, obliging us to halt till two P.M., when we crossed
+several small pools with great labour and loss of time. We had
+generally very light ice this day, with some heavy, rugged pieces
+intermixed; and, when hauling across these, we had sometimes to
+cut with axes a passage for the boats among the hummocks. We also
+dragged them through a great many pools of fresh water, to avoid
+the necessity of going round them. The wind freshening up from
+the S.S.W., we afterward found the ice gradually more and more
+open, so that, in the course of the day, we made by rowing,
+though by a very winding channel, five miles of northing; but
+were again stopped by the ice soon after midnight, and obliged to
+haul up on the first mass that we could gain, the ice having so
+much motion that we narrowly escaped being "nipped." We set out
+at 11.30 A.M. on the 1st July, the wind still fresh from the
+S.W., and some snow falling: but it was more than an hour before
+we could get away from the small pieces of ice on which we slept,
+the masses beyond being so broken up and so much in motion, that
+we could not, at first, venture to launch the boats. Our
+latitude, observed at noon, was 81&deg; 30' 41". After crossing
+several pieces, we at length got into a good "lead" of water,
+four or five miles in length; two or three of which, as on the
+preceding day, occurred under the lee of a floe, being the second
+we had yet seen that deserved that name. We then passed over four
+or five small floes, and across the pools of water that lay
+between them. The ice was now less broken up, and sometimes
+tolerably level; but from six to eighteen inches of soft snow lay
+upon it in every part, making the travelling very fatiguing, and
+obliging us to make at least two, and sometimes three, journeys
+with our loads. We now found it absolutely necessary to lighten
+the boat as much as possible, by putting the bread-bags on the
+sledges, on account of the "runners" of the boats sinking so much
+deeper into the snow; but our bread ran a great risk of being
+wetted by this plan.</p>
+<p>We halted at eleven P.M. on the 1st, having traversed from ten
+to eleven miles, and made good, by our account, seven and half in
+a N.b.W. direction. We again set forward at ten A.M. on the 2d,
+the weather being calm, and the sun oppressively warm, though
+with a thick fog. The temperature in the shade was 35&deg; at
+noon, and only 47&deg; in the sun; but this, together with the
+glare from the snow, produced so painful a sensation in most of
+our eyes, as to make it necessary to halt at one P.M., to avoid
+being blinded. We therefore took advantage of this warm weather
+to let the men wash themselves, and mend and dry their clothes,
+and then set out again at half past three. The snow was, however,
+so soft as to take us up to our knees at almost every other step,
+and frequently still deeper; so that we were sometimes five
+minutes together in moving a single empty boat, with all our
+united strength. It being impossible to proceed under these
+circumstances, I determined to fall into our night-travelling
+again, from which we had of late insensibly deviated. We
+therefore halted at half past five, the weather being now very
+clear and warm, and many of the people's eyes beginning to fail.
+We did not set out again till after midnight, with the intention
+of giving the snow time to harden after so warm a day; but we
+found it still so soft as to make the travelling very fatiguing.
+Our way lay at first across a number of loose pieces, most of
+which were from five to twenty yards apart, or just sufficiently
+separated to give us all the labour of launching and hauling up
+the boats, without the advantage of making any progress by water;
+while we crossed, in other instances, from mass to mass, by
+laying the boats over as bridges, by which the men and the
+baggage passed. By these means, we at length reached a floe about
+a mile in length, in a northern direction; but it would be
+difficult to convey an adequate idea of the labour required to
+traverse it. The average depth of snow upon the level parts was
+about five inches, under which lay water four or five inches
+deep; but, the moment we approached a hummock, the depth to which
+we sank increased to three feet or more, rendering it difficult
+at times to obtain sufficient footing for one leg to enable us to
+extricate the other. The pools of fresh water had now also become
+very large, some of them being a quarter of a mile in length, and
+their depth above our knees. Through these we were prevented
+taking the sledges, for fear of wetting all our provisions; but
+we preferred transporting the boats across them, notwithstanding
+the severe cold of the snow-water, the bottom being harder for
+the "runners" to slide upon. On this kind of road we were, in one
+instance, above two hours in proceeding a distance of one hundred
+yards.</p>
+<p>We halted at half past six A.M. to dine; and to empty our
+boots and wring our stockings, which, to our feelings, was almost
+like putting on dry ones; and again set out in an hour, getting
+at length into a "lane" of water a mile and a quarter long, in a
+N.N.E. direction. We halted for the night at half an hour before
+midnight, the people being almost exhausted with a laborious
+day's work, and our distance made good to the northward not
+exceeding two miles and a quarter. We allowed ourselves this
+night a hot supper, consisting of a pint of soup per man, made of
+an ounce of pemmican each, and eight or ten birds, which we had
+killed in the course of the last week; and this was a luxury
+which persons thus situated could perhaps alone duly
+appreciate.</p>
+<p>We rose and breakfasted at nine P.M.; but the weather had
+gradually become so inclement and thick, with snow, sleet, and a
+fresh breeze from the eastward, that we could neither have seen
+our way, nor have avoided getting wet through had we moved. We
+therefore remained under cover; and it was as well that we did
+so, for the snow soon after changed to heavy rain, and the wind
+increased to a fresh gale, which unavoidably detained us till
+7.30 P.M. on the 4th. The rain had produced even a greater effect
+than the sun in softening the snow. Lieutenant Ross and myself,
+in performing our pioneering duty, were frequently so beset in
+it, that sometimes, after trying in vain to extricate our legs,
+we were obliged to sit quietly down for a short time to rest
+ourselves and then make another attempt; and the men, in dragging
+the sledges, were often under the necessity of crawling upon
+all-fours to make any progress at all. Nor would any kind of
+snow-shoes have been of the least service, but rather an
+encumbrance to us, for the surface was so irregular, that they
+would have thrown us down at every other step. We had hitherto
+made use of the Lapland shoes, or <i>kamoogas</i>, for walking
+in, which are excellent for dry snow; but there being now so much
+water upon the ice, we substituted the Esquimaux boots, which had
+been made in Greenland expressly for our use, and which are far
+superior to any others for this kind of travelling. Just before
+halting, at six A.M. on the 5th, the ice at the margin of the
+floe broke while the men were handing the provisions out of the
+boats; and we narrowly escaped the loss of a bag of cocoa, which
+fell overboard, but fortunately rested on a "tongue." The bag
+being made of Mackintosh's waterproof canvass, the cocoa did not
+suffer the slightest injury.</p>
+<p>We rose at five P.M., the weather being clear and fine, with a
+moderate breeze from the south; no land was in sight from the
+highest hummocks, nor could we perceive anything but broken loose
+ice in any direction. We hauled across several pieces which were
+scarcely fit to bear the weight of the boats, and in such cases
+used the precaution of dividing our baggage, so that, in case of
+the ice breaking or turning over, we should not lose all at once.
+The farther we proceeded, the more the ice was broken; indeed, it
+was much more so here than we had found it since first entering
+the "pack." After stopping at midnight to dine and to obtain the
+meridian altitude, we passed over a floe full of hummocks, a mile
+and a half in length; but any kind of floe was relief to us after
+the constant difficulty we had experienced in passing over loose
+ice.</p>
+<p>After several hours of very beautiful weather, a thick fog
+came on early on the morning of the 6th July, and at five A.M. we
+halted, having got to the end of the floe, and only made good two
+miles and a half to the northward. The fog continued very thick
+all day; but, being unwilling to stop on this account, we set out
+again at half past six in the evening, and passed over several
+small flat pieces with no great difficulty, but with much loss of
+time in launching and hauling up the boats. Towards the end of
+our day's journey, we landed on the only really level floe we had
+yet met with. It was, however, only three quarters of a mile in
+length, but, being almost clear of snow, afforded such good
+travelling, that, although much fatigued at the time, we hauled
+the boats and all the baggage across it at one journey, at the
+rate of about two miles an hour, and halted at the northern
+margin at five A.M. on the 7th. The prospect beyond was still
+very unfavourable, and at eight in the evening, when we again
+launched the boats, there was not a piece of large or level ice
+to be seen in a northern direction.</p>
+<p>We halted at six A.M. on the 8th, in time to avoid a great
+deal of rain which fell during the day, and again proceeded on
+our journey at eight in the evening, the wind being fresh from
+the E.S.E., with thick, wet weather. We now met with detached ice
+of a still lighter kind than before, the only floe in sight being
+much to the eastward of our course. This we reached after
+considerable labour, in the hope of its leading to the northward,
+which it did for about one mile, and we then came to the same
+kind of loose ice as before. On the morning of the 9th July, we
+enjoyed the indescribable comfort of two or three hours' clear,
+dry weather, but had scarcely hung up our wet clothes, after
+halting at five A.M., when it again came on to rain; but, as
+everything was as wet as it could be, we left them out to take
+their chance. The rain continued most of the day, but we set out
+at half past seven P.M., crossing loose ice, as usual, and much
+of the surface consisting of detached vertical needles. After an
+hour, the rain became so heavy that we halted to save our shirts,
+which were the only dry clothes' belonging to us. Soon after
+midnight, the rain being succeeded by one of the thickest fogs I
+ever saw, we again proceeded, groping our way almost yard by yard
+from one small piece of ice to another, and were very fortunate
+in hitting upon some with level surfaces, and also a few
+tolerable-sized holes of water. At half past two we reached a
+floe which appeared at first a level and large one; but, on
+landing, we were much mortified to find it so covered with
+immense ponds, or, rather, small lakes of fresh water, that, to
+accomplish two miles in a north direction, we were under the
+necessity of walking from three to four, the water being too deep
+for wading, and from two hundred yards to one third of a mile in
+length. We halted at six A.M., having made only one mile and
+three quarters in a N.N.W. direction, the wind still blowing
+fresh from the eastward, with a thick fog. We were in latitude
+82&deg; 3' 19", and longitude, by chronometers, 23&deg; 17' E.,
+and we found the variation of the magnetic needle to be 13&deg;
+41' westerly. We moved again at seven P.M., with the weather
+nearly as foggy as before, our road lying across a very hummocky
+floe, on which we had considerable difficulty in getting the
+boats, the ice being extremely unfavourable both for launching
+and hauling them up. After stopping an hour at midnight to dine,
+we were again annoyed by a heavy fall of rain, a phenomenon
+almost as new to us in these regions until this summer, as it was
+harassing and unhealthy. Being anxious, however, to take
+advantage of a lane of water that seemed to lead northerly, we
+launched the boats, and by the time that we had crossed it, which
+gave us only half a mile of northing, the rain had become much
+harder, and our outer clothes, bread bags, and boats were
+thoroughly wet. After this we had better travelling on the ice,
+and also crossed one or two larger holes of water than we had met
+with for a long time, and halted for our night's rest at half
+past seven A.M., after nearly twelve hours' hard, but not
+altogether unsuccessful labour, having traversed about twelve
+miles, and made good by our account, seven and a half, in a
+N.W.b.N. direction. The rain ceased soon after we had halted, but
+was succeeded, by a thick, wet fog, which obliged us, when we
+continued our journey, to put on our travelling clothes in the
+same dripping state as when we took them off. The wind continued
+fresh from the southeastward, and at nine P.M. the weather
+suddenly cleared up, and gave us once more the inconceivably
+cheering, I had almost said the blessed, sight of a blue sky,
+with hard, well-defined white clouds floating across it. We
+halted at six A.M., after making, by our day's exertions, only
+three miles and a half of northing, our latitude at this time
+being 82&deg; 14' 28", and our longitude, by chronometers,
+22&deg; 4' E. The thermometer was from 35&deg; to 36&deg; in the
+shade during most of the day, and this, with a clear sky over
+head, was now absolute luxury to us. Setting out again at seven
+P.M., we crossed a small lane of water to another floe; but this
+was so intersected by ponds, and by streams running into the sea,
+that we had to make a very circuitous route, some of the ponds
+being half-a mile in length. Notwithstanding the immense quantity
+of water still upon the ice, and which always afforded us a pure
+and abundant supply of this indispensable article, we now
+observed a mark round the banks of all the ponds, showing that
+the water was less deep in them, by several inches, than it had
+been somewhat earlier in the summer; and, indeed, from about this
+time, some small diminution in its quantity began to be
+perceptible to ourselves. We halted for our resting-time at six
+A.M. on the 13th, having gained only two miles and a half of
+northing, over a road of about four, and this accomplished by ten
+hours of fatiguing exertion. We were here in latitude, by the
+noon observation, 82&deg; 17' 10", and could find no bottom with
+four hundred fathoms of line. We launched the boats at seven in
+the evening, the wind being moderate from the E.S.E., with fine,
+clear weather, and were still mortified in finding that no
+improvement took place in the road over which we had to travel;
+for the ice now before us was, if possible, more broken up and
+more difficult to pass over than ever. Much of it was also so
+thin as to be extremely dangerous for the provisions; and it was
+often a nervous thing to see our whole means of existence lying
+on a decayed sheet, having holes quite through it in many parts,
+and which the smallest motion among the surrounding masses might
+have instantly broken into pieces. There was, however, no choice,
+except between this road and the more rugged though safer
+hummocks, which cost ten times the labour to pass over. Mounting
+one of the highest of these at nine P.M., we could discover
+nothing to the north, ward but the same broken and irregular
+surface; and we now began to doubt whether we should at all meet
+with the solid fields of unbroken ice which every account had led
+us to expect in a much lower latitude than this. A very strong,
+yellow ice-blink overspread the whole northern horizon.</p>
+<p>We stopped to dine at half an hour past midnight, after more
+than five hours unceasing labour, in the course of which time we
+had only accomplished a mile and a half due north, though we had
+traversed from three to four, and walked at least ten, having
+made three journeys a great part of the way. We had launched and
+hauled up the boats four times, and dragged them over twenty-five
+separate pieces of ice. After dinner we continued the same kind
+of travelling, which was, beyond all description, harrassing to
+the officers and men. In crossing from mass to mass, several of
+which were separated about half the length of our sledges, the
+officers were stationed at the most difficult places to see that
+no precaution, was omitted which could ensure the safety of the
+provisions. Only one individual was allowed to jump over at a
+time, or to stand near either margin, for fear of the weight
+being too great for it; and when three or four men had separately
+crossed, the sledge was cautiously drawn up to the edge, and the
+word being given, the men suddenly ran away with the ropes, so as
+to allow no time for its falling in if the ice should break.
+Having at length succeeded in reaching a small floe, we halted at
+half past six A.M., much wearied by nearly eleven hours'
+exertion, by which we had only advanced three miles and a half in
+a N.N.W. direction. We rose at six P.M., and prepared to set out,
+but it rained so hard and so incessantly that it would have been
+impossible to move without a complete drenching. It held up a
+little at five, and at six we set out; but the rain soon
+recommenced, though less heavily than before. At eight the rain
+again became heavier, and we got under shelter of our awnings for
+a quarter of an hour, to keep our shirts and other flannel
+clothes dry; these being the only things we now had on which were
+not thoroughly wet. At nine we did the same, but before ten were
+obliged to halt altogether, the rain coming down in torrents, and
+the men being much exhausted by continued wet and cold, though
+the thermometer was at 36&deg;, which was somewhat above our
+usual temperature. At half past seven P.M. we again pursued our
+journey, and, after much laborious travelling, we were fortunate,
+considering the fog, in hitting upon a floe which proved the
+longest we had yet crossed, being three miles from south to
+north, though alternately rugged and flat. From this we launched
+into a lane of water half a mile long from east to west, but
+which only gave us a hundred and fifty yards of northing.</p>
+<p>The floe on which we stopped to dine, at one A.M. on the 16th,
+was not more than four feet thick, and its extent half a mile
+square; and on this we had the rare advantage of carrying all our
+loads at one journey. At half past six the fog cleared away, and
+gave us beautiful weather for drying our clothes, and once more
+the cheerful sight of the blue sky. We halted at half past seven,
+after being twelve hours on the road, having made a N.b.W.
+course, distance only six miles and a quarter, though we had
+traversed nine miles. We saw, during this last journey, a
+mallemucke and a second Ross gull: and a couple of small flies
+(to us an event of ridiculous importance) were found upon the
+ice.</p>
+<p>We again pursued our way at seven in the evening, having the
+unusual comfort of putting on dry stockings, and the no less rare
+luxury of delightfully pleasant weather, the wind being moderate
+from the S.S.E. It was so warm in the sun, though the temperature
+in the shade was only 35&deg;, that the tar was running out of
+the seams of the boats; and a blackened bulb held against the
+paint-work raised the thermometer to 72&deg;. The floes were
+larger to-day, and the ice, upon the whole, of heavier dimensions
+than any we had yet met with. The general thickness of the floes,
+however, did not exceed nine or ten feet, which is not more than
+the usual thickness of those in Baffin's Bay and Hudson's
+Strait.</p>
+<p>The 17th of July being one of the days on which the Royal
+Society of Edinburgh have proposed to institute a series of
+simultaneous meteorological observations, we commenced an hourly
+register of every phenomenon which came under our notice, and
+which our instruments and other circumstances would permit, and
+continued most of them throughout the day. Our latitude, observed
+at noon, was 82&deg; 32' 10", being more than a mile to the
+southward of the reckoning, though the wind had been constantly
+from that quarter during the twenty-four hours.</p>
+<p>After midnight the road became, if possible, worse, and the
+prospect to the northward more discouraging than before; nothing
+but loose and very small pieces of ice being in sight, over which
+the boats were dragged almost entirely by a "standing-pull." The
+men were so exhausted with their day's work, that it was
+absolutely necessary to give them something hot for supper, and
+we again served a little cocoa for that purpose. They were also
+put into good spirits by our having killed a small seal, which,
+the following night, gave us an excellent supper. The meat of
+these young animals is tender, and free from oiliness; but it
+certainly has a smell and a look which would not have been
+agreeable to any but very hungry people like ourselves. We also
+considered it a great prize on account of its blubber, which gave
+us fuel sufficient for cooking six hot messes for our whole
+party, though the animal only weighed thirty pounds in the
+whole.</p>
+<p>Setting out at half past seven in the evening, we found the
+sun more distressing to the eyes than we had ever yet had it,
+bidding defiance to our crape veils and wire-gauze eye-shades;<a
+name='FNanchor_022_22'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_022_22'><sup>[022]</sup></a> but a more effectual
+screen was afforded by the sun becoming clouded about nine P.M.
+At half past nine we came to a very difficult crossing among the
+loose ice, which, however, we were encouraged to attempt by
+seeing a floe of some magnitude beyond it. We had to convey the
+sledges and provisions one way, and to haul the boats over by
+another. One of the masses over which the boats came began to
+roll about while one of them was upon it, giving us reason to
+apprehend its upsetting, which must have been attended with some
+very serious consequence: fortunately, however, it retained its
+equilibrium long enough to allow us to get the boat past it in
+safety, not without several of the men falling overboard, in
+consequence of the long jumps we had to make, and the edges
+breaking with their weight.</p>
+<p>On the morning of the 20th we came to a good deal of ice,
+which formed a striking contrast with the other, being composed
+of flat bay-floes, not three feet thick, which would have
+afforded us good travelling had they not recently been broken
+into small pieces, obliging us to launch frequently from one to
+another. These floes had been the product of the last winter
+only, having probably been formed in some of the interstices left
+between the larger bodies; and, from what we saw of them, there
+could be little doubt of their being all dissolved before the
+next autumnal frost. We halted at seven A.M., having, by our
+reckoning, accomplished six miles and a half in a N.N.W.
+direction, the distance traversed being ten miles and a half. It
+may therefore be imagined how great was our mortification in
+finding that our latitude, by observation at noon, was only
+82&deg; 36' 52", being less than <i>five</i> miles to the
+northward of our place at noon on the 17th, since which time we
+had certainly travelled <i>twelve</i> in that direction.</p>
+<p>At five A.M. on the 21st, having gone ahead, as usual, upon a
+bay-floe, to search for the best road, I heard a more than
+ordinary noise and bustle among the people who were bringing up
+the boats behind. On returning to them, I found that we had
+narrowly, and most providentially, escaped a serious calamity;
+the floe having broken under the weight of the boats and sledges,
+and the latter having nearly been lost through the ice. Some of
+the men went completely through, and one of them was only held up
+by his drag-belt being attached to a sledge which happened to be
+on firmer ice. Fortunately the bread had, by way of security,
+been kept in the boats, or this additional weight would
+undoubtedly have sunk the sledges, and probably some of the men
+with them. As it was, we happily escaped, though we hardly knew
+how, with a good deal of wetting; and, cautiously approaching the
+boats, drew them to a stronger part of the ice, after which we
+continued our journey till half past six A.M., when we halted to
+rest, having travelled about seven miles N.N.W., our longitude by
+chronometers being 19&deg; 52' east, and the latitude 82&deg; 39'
+10", being only two miles and a quarter to the northward of the
+preceding day's observation, or four miles and a half to the
+southward of our reckoning.</p>
+<p>Our sportsmen had the good fortune to kill another seal
+to-day, rather larger than the first, which again proved a most
+welcome addition to our provisions and fuel. Indeed, after this
+supply of the latter, we were enabled to allow ourselves every
+night a pint of warm water for supper, each man making his own
+soup from such a portion of his bread and pemmican as he could
+save from dinner. Setting out again at seven in the evening, we
+were not sorry to find the weather quite calm, which sailors
+account "half a fair wind;" for it was now evident that nothing
+but a southerly breeze could enable us to make any tolerable
+progress, or to regain what we had lately lost.</p>
+<p>Our travelling to-night was the very best we had during this
+excursion; for though we had to launch and haul up the boats
+frequently, an operation which, under the most favourable
+circumstances, necessarily occupies much time, yet the floes
+being large and tolerably level, and some good lanes of water
+occurring, we made, according to the most moderate calculation,
+between ten and eleven miles in a N.N.E. direction, and traversed
+a distance of about seventeen. We halted at a quarter past eight
+A.M. after more than twelve hours' actual travelling, by which
+the people were extremely fatigued; but, while our work seemed to
+be repaid by anything like progress, the men laboured with great
+cheerfulness to the utmost of their strength. The ice over which
+we had travelled was by far the largest and heaviest we met with
+during our whole journey; this, indeed, was the only occasion on
+which we saw anything answering in the slightest degree to the
+descriptions given of the main ice. The largest floe was from two
+and a half to three miles square, and in some places the
+thickness of the ice was from 15 to 20 feet. However, it was a
+satisfaction to observe that the ice had certainly improved; and
+we now ventured to hope that, for the short time that we could
+still pursue our outward journey, our progress would be more
+commensurate with our exertions than it had hitherto proved. In
+proportion, then, to the hopes we had begun to entertain, was our
+disappointment in finding, at noon, that we were in latitude
+82&deg; 43' 5", or not quite four miles to the northward of
+yesterday's observation, instead of the ten or eleven which we
+had travelled! We halted at seven A.M. on the 23d, after a
+laborious day's work, and, I must confess, a disheartening one to
+those who knew to how little effect we were struggling; which,
+however, the men did not, though they often laughingly remarked
+that "we were a long time getting to this 83&deg;!" Being anxious
+to make up, in some measure, for the drift which the present
+northerly wind was in all probability occasioning, we rose
+earlier than usual, and set off at half past four in the evening.
+At half past five P.M. we saw a very beautiful natural
+phenomenon. A broad white fog-bow first appeared opposite the
+sun, as was very commonly the case; presently it became strongly
+tinged with, the prismatic colours, and soon afterward no less
+than five other complete arches were formed within the main bow,
+the interior ones being gradually narrower than those without,
+but the whole of them beautifully coloured. The larger bow, and
+the one next within it, had the red on the outer or upper part of
+the circle, the others on the inner side.</p>
+<p>We halted at a quarter past three on the morning of the 24th,
+having made four miles and a half N.N.E., over a road of about
+seven and a half, most of which we traversed, as usual, three
+times. We moved again at four P.M. over a difficult road,
+composed of small and rugged ice. So small was the ice now around
+us, that we were obliged to halt for the night at two A.M. on the
+25th, being upon the only piece in sight, in any direction, on
+which we could venture to trust the boats while we rested. Such
+was the ice in the latitude of 82-3/4&deg;.</p>
+<p>The wind had now got round to the W.N.W., with raw, foggy
+weather, and continued to blow fresh all day. Snow came on soon
+after our halting, and about two inches had fallen when we moved
+again at half past four P.M. We continued our journey in this
+inclement weather for three hours, hauling from piece to piece,
+and not making more than three quarters of a mile progress, till
+our clothes and bread-bags had become very wet, and the snow fell
+so thick that we could no longer see our way. It was therefore
+necessary to halt, which we did at half past seven, putting the
+awnings over the boats, changing our wet clothes, and giving the
+men employment for the mere sake of occupying their minds. The
+weather improving towards noon on the 26th, we obtained the
+meridian altitude of the sun, by which we found ourselves in
+latitude 82&deg; 40' 23"; so that, since our last observation (at
+midnight on the 22d), we had lost by drift no less than thirteen
+miles and a half; for we were now more than three miles to the
+<i>southward</i> of that observation, though we had certainly
+travelled between ten and eleven due north in this interval!
+Again, we were but one mile to the north of our place at noon on
+the 21st, though we had estimated our distance made good at
+twenty-three miles. Thus it appeared that for the last five days
+we had been struggling against a southerly drift exceeding four
+miles per day.</p>
+<p>It had, for some time past, been too evident that the nature
+of the ice with which we had to contend was such, and its drift
+to the southward, especially with a northerly wind, so great, as
+to put beyond our reach anything but a very moderate share of
+success in travelling to the northward. Still, however, we had
+been anxious to reach the highest latitude which our means would
+allow, and with this view, although our whole object had long
+become unattainable, had pushed on to the northward for
+thirty-five days, or until half our resources were expended, and
+the middle of our season arrived. For the last few days the
+eighty-third parallel was the limit to which we had ventured to
+extend our hopes; but even this expectation had become
+considerably weakened since the setting in of the last northerly
+wind, which continued to drive us to the southward, during the
+necessary hours of rest, nearly as much as we could gain by
+eleven or twelve hours of daily labour. Had our success been at
+all proportionate to our exertions, it was my full intention to
+proceed a few days beyond the middle of the period for which we
+were provided, trusting to the resources we expected to find at
+Table Island. But I could not but consider it as incurring
+useless fatigue to the officers and men, and unnecessary wear and
+tear for the boats, to persevere any longer in the attempt. I
+determined, therefore, on giving the people one entire day's
+rest, which they very much needed, and time to wash and mend
+their clothes, while the officers were occupied in making all the
+observations which might be interesting in this latitude; and
+then to set out on our return on the following day. Having
+communicated my intentions to the people, who were all much
+disappointed at finding how little their labours had effected, we
+set about our respective occupations, and were much favoured by a
+remarkably fine day.</p>
+<p>The highest latitude we reached was probably at seven A.M. on
+the 23d, when, after the midnight observation, we travelled, by
+our account, something more than a mile and a half, which would
+carry us a little beyond 82&deg; 45'. Some observations for the
+magnetic intensity were obtained at this station. We here found
+no bottom with five hundred fathoms of line. At the extreme point
+of our journey, our distance from the Hecla was only 172 miles in
+a S. 8&deg; W. direction. To accomplish this distance, we had
+traversed, by our reckoning, 292 miles, of which about 100 were
+performed by water, previous to our entering the ice. As we
+travelled by far the greater part of our distance on the ice
+three, and not unfrequently five, times over, we may safely
+multiply the length of the road by two and a half; so that our
+whole distance, on a very moderate calculation, amounted to 580
+geographical or 668 statute miles, being nearly sufficient to
+have reached the Pole in a direct line.</p>
+<p>Our day of rest (27th of July) proved one of the warmest and
+most pleasant to the feelings we had yet had upon the ice, though
+the thermometer was only from 31&deg; to 36&deg; in the shade,
+and 37&deg; in the sun, with occasional fog; but to persons in
+the open air, calm and tolerably dry weather affords absolute
+enjoyment, especially by contrast with what we had lately
+experienced. Our ensigns and pendants were displayed during the
+day; and, sincerely as we regretted not having been able to hoist
+the British flag in the highest latitude to which we had aspired,
+we shall perhaps be excused in having felt some little pride in
+being the bearers of it to a parallel considerably beyond that
+mentioned in any other well-authenticated record.</p>
+<p>At 4.30 P.M. on the 27th, we set out on our return to the
+southward, and I can safely say that, dreary and cheerless as
+were the scenes we were about to leave, we never turned homeward
+with so little satisfaction as on this occasion. To afford a
+chance of determining the general set of the current from this
+latitude, we left upon a hummock of ice a paper, sewn up in a
+water-proof canvass bag, and then enclosed in a water-tight tin
+canister, giving an account of the place where it was deposited,
+and requesting any person who should find it to send it to the
+secretary of the admiralty. Nothing worthy of particular notice
+occurred on this and the following day, on each of which we
+travelled eleven hours; finding the water somewhat more open and
+the floes less rugged than usual. Two of these were from two to
+three miles in length, and in one instance the surface was
+sufficiently level to allow us to drag the boats for three
+quarters of a mile with the sledges <i>in tow</i>. Our latitude,
+observed at noon of the 30th, was 82&deg; 20' 37", or twelve
+miles and a half to the southward of the preceding day's
+observation, though we had travelled only seven by our account;
+so that the drift of the ice had assisted us in gaining five
+miles and a half in that interval.</p>
+<p>Setting out to continue our journey at five P.M., we could
+discover nothing from a high hummock but the kind of bay-ice
+before noticed, except on the floe on which we had slept. The
+travelling was very laborious, but we were obliged to go on till
+we could get to a secure floe for resting upon, which we could
+not effect till half past four on the 31st, when, in eleven hours
+and a half, we had not made more than two miles and a quarter of
+southing. However, we had the satisfaction, which was denied us
+on our outward journey, of feeling confident that we should keep
+all that we gained, and probably make a good deal more; which,
+indeed, proved to be the case, for at noon we found our latitude,
+by observation, to be 82&deg; 14' 25", or four miles to the
+southward of the reckoning.</p>
+<p>We halted at five A.M. on the 1st of August, the officers and
+men being quite knocked up, and having made by our account only
+two miles of southing over a road not less than five in length.
+As we came along we had seen some recent bear-tracks, and soon
+after discovered Bruin himself. Halting the boats and concealing
+the people behind them, we drew him almost within gun-shot; but,
+after making a great many traverses behind some hummocks, and
+even mounting one of them to examine us more narrowly, he set off
+and escaped&mdash;I must say, to our grievous disappointment; for
+we had already, by anticipation, consigned a tolerable portion of
+his flesh to our cooking kettle, over a fire of his own
+blubber.</p>
+<p>In the course of our journey, on the 2d of August, we met with
+a quantity of snow, tinged, to the depth of several inches, with
+some red colouring matter, of which a portion was preserved in a
+bottle for future examination. This circumstance recalled to our
+recollection our having frequently before, in the course of this
+journey, remarked that the loaded sledges, in passing over hard
+snow, left upon it a light, rose-coloured tint, which, at the
+time, we attributed to the colouring matter being pressed out of
+the birch of which they were made. Today, however, we observed
+that the runners of the, boats, and even our own footsteps,
+exhibited the same appearance; and, on watching it more narrowly
+afterward, we found the same effect to be produced, in a greater
+or less degree, by heavy pressure, on almost all the ice over
+which we passed, though a magnifying glass could detect nothing
+to give it this tinge. Halting at seven A.M. on the 3d, after
+launching and hauling up the boats a great number of times, we
+had not only the comfort of drying all our wet clothes, but were
+even able to wash many of our woollen things, which dried in a
+few hours. The latitude observed at noon was 82&deg; 1' 48", or
+twelve miles and a half, to the southward of our place on the
+31st, which was about three more than our log gave, though there
+had been southing in the wind during the whole interval.</p>
+<p>We proceeded on our journey southward at eight P.M., and were
+again favoured with a clear and beautiful night, though the
+travelling was as slow and laborious as ever, there being
+scarcely a tolerable floe lying in our road. The sun now became
+so much lower at night, that we were seldom annoyed by the glare
+from the snow. It was also a very comfortable change to those who
+had to look out for the road, to have the sun behind us instead
+of facing it, as on our outward journey. We stopped to rest at a
+quarter past six A.M. on the 4th, after accomplishing three miles
+in a south direction, over a troublesome road of nearly twice
+that length. It was almost calm, and to our feelings oppressively
+warm during the day, the thermometer within the boats rising as
+high as 66&deg;, which put our fur dresses nearly "out of
+commission," though the mercury exposed to the sun outside did
+not rise above 39&deg;. Pursuing our journey at eight P.M., we
+paid, as usual, for this comfort by the extreme softness of the
+snow. The upper crust would sometimes support a man's weight for
+a short time, and then suddenly let him down two or three feet,
+so that we could never make sure of our footing for two steps
+together. Several of the men were also suffering much at this
+time from chilblains, which, from the constant wet and cold, as
+well as the irritation in walking, became serious sores, keeping
+them quite lame. With many of our people, also, the epidermis or
+scarfskin peeled off in large flakes, not merely in the face and
+hands, which were exposed to the action of the sun and the
+weather, but in every other part of the body; this, however, was
+attended with no pain, nor with much inconvenience.</p>
+<p>A fat bear crossed over a lane of water to visit us, and,
+approaching the boats within twenty yards, was killed by
+Lieutenant Ross. The scene which followed was laughable, even to
+us who participated in it. Before the animal had done biting the
+snow, one of the men was alongside of him with an open knife;
+and, being asked what he was about to do, replied that he was
+about cut out his heart and liver to put into the pot, which
+happened to be then boiling for our supper. In short, before the
+bear had been dead an hour, all hands of us were employed, to our
+great satisfaction, in discussing the merits, not only of the
+said heart and liver, but a pound per man of the flesh; besides
+which, some or other of the men were constantly frying steaks
+during the whole day, over a large fire made of the blubber. The
+consequence of all this, and other similar indulgences,
+necessarily was, that some of them complained, for several days
+after, of the pains usually arising from indigestion; though they
+all, amusingly enough, attributed this effect to the quality, and
+not the quantity of meat they had eaten. However, notwithstanding
+these excesses at first, we were really thankful for this
+additional supply of meat; for we had observed for some time
+past, that the men were evidently not so strong as before, and
+would be the better for more sustenance.</p>
+<p>The rain continued so hard at our usual time of setting out,
+that I was obliged to delay doing so till six P.M. on the 8th,
+when it ceased a little, after falling hard for twenty-four
+hours, and less violently for twelve more. When we first launched
+the boats, our prospect of making progress seemed no better than
+usual, but we found one small hole of water leading into another
+in so extraordinary a manner, that, though the space in which we
+were rowing seemed always to be coming to an end, we continued to
+creep through narrow passages, and, when we halted to dine at
+half an hour before midnight, had only hauled the boats up once,
+and had made, though by a winding channel, four or five miles of
+southing. This was so unusual a circumstance, that we could not
+help entertaining some hope of our being at no great distance
+from the open sea, which seemed the more probable from our having
+seen seven or eight narwhals, and not less than two hundred
+rotges, a flock of these little birds occurring in every hole of
+water. At noon on the 10th of August, we observed in latitude
+81&deg; 40' 13", which was only four miles to the northward of
+our reckoning from the last observation, although there had been
+almost constantly southing in the wind ever since, and it had
+been blowing strong from that quarter for the last thirty hours.
+This circumstance afforded a last and striking proof of the
+general tendency of the ice to drift southward, about the
+meridians on which we had been travelling. Another bear came
+towards the boats in the course of the day, and was killed. We
+were now so abundantly supplied with meat, that the men would
+again have eaten immoderately had we not interposed the necessary
+authority to prevent them. As it was, our encampment became so
+like an Esquimaux establishment, that we were obliged to shift
+our place upon the floe in the course of the day, for the sake of
+cleanliness and comfort.</p>
+<p>The wind falling towards midnight, we launched the boats at
+half past one A.M. on the 11th, paddling alternately in large
+spaces of clear water and among streams of loose "sailing ice."
+We soon afterward observed such indications of an open sea as
+could not be mistaken, much of the ice being "washed" as by a
+heavy sea, with small rounded fragments thrown on the surface,
+and a good deal of "dirty ice" occurring. After passing through a
+good deal of loose ice, it became gradually more and more open,
+till at length, at a quarter before seven A.M., we heard the
+first sound of the swell under the hollow margins of the ice, and
+in a quarter of an hour had reached the open sea, which was
+dashing with heavy surges against the outer masses. We hauled the
+boats upon one of these, to eat our last meal upon the ice, and
+to complete the necessary supply of water for our little voyage
+to Table Island, from which we were now distant fifty miles, our
+latitude being 81&deg; 34', and longitude 18-1/4&deg; E. A light
+air springing up from the N.W., we again launched the boats, and
+at eight A.M. finally quitted the ice, after having taken up our
+abode upon it for forty-eight days.</p>
+<p>We had some fog during the night, so that we steered entirely
+by compass, according to our last observations by the
+chronometers, which proved so correct, that, at five A.M. on the
+12th, on the clearing up of the haze, we made the island right
+ahead. At eleven A.M. we reached the island, or rather the rock
+to the northward of it, where our provisions had been deposited;
+and I cannot describe the comfort we experienced in once more
+feeling a dry and solid footing. We found that the bears had
+devoured all the bread (one hundred pounds), which occasioned a
+remark among the men, with reference to the quantity of these
+animals' flesh that we had eaten, that "Bruin was only square
+with us." We also found that Lieutenant Crozier had been here
+since we left the island, bringing some materials for repairing
+our boats, as well as various little luxuries to which we had
+lately been strangers, and depositing in a copper cylinder a
+letter from Lieutenant Foster, giving me a detailed account of
+the proceedings of the ship up to the 23d of July. By this I
+learned that the Hecla had been forced on shore on the 7th of
+July, by the breaking-up of the ice at the head of the bay, which
+came down upon her in one solid mass; but, by the unwearied and
+zealous exertions of the officers and men, she had again been
+hove off without incurring the slightest damage, and placed in
+perfect security. Among the supplies with which the anxious care
+of our friends on board had now furnished us, some lemon-juice
+and sugar were not the least acceptable; two or three of the men
+having for some days past suffered from oedematous swellings of
+the legs, and evinced other symptoms apparently scorbutic, but
+which soon improved after administering this valuable
+specific.</p>
+<p>Having got our stores into the boats, we rowed round Table
+Island to look for a place on which to rest, the men being much
+fatigued; but so rugged and inhospitable is this northern rock,
+that not a single spot could we find where the boats could
+possibly be hauled up, or lie afloat in security. I therefore
+determined to take advantage of the freshening of the N.E. wind,
+and to bear up for Walden Island, which we accordingly did at two
+P.M. We had scarcely made, sail when the weather became extremely
+inclement, with a fresh gale and very thick snow, which obscured
+Walden Island from our view. Steering by compass, however, we
+made a good landfall, the boats behaving well in a sea; and at
+seven P.M. landed in the smoothest place we could find under the
+lee of the island. Everything belonging to us was now completely
+drenched by the spray and snow; we had been fifty-six hours
+without rest, and forty-eight at work in the boats, so that, by
+the time they were unloaded, we had barely strength left to haul
+them up on the rock. We noticed, on this occasion, that the men
+had that wildness in their looks which usually accompanies
+excessive fatigue; and, though just as willing as ever to obey
+orders, they seemed at times not to comprehend them. However, by
+dint of great exertion, we managed to get the boats above the
+surf; after which, a hot supper, a blazing fire of driftwood, and
+a few hours' quiet rest, quite restored us.</p>
+<p>The next morning, the 13th, I despatched Lieutenant Ross, with
+a party of hands, to the N.E. part of the island, to launch the
+spare boat, which, according to my directions, Lieutenant Foster
+had sent for our use, and to bring round the stores deposited
+there in readiness for our setting off for Low Island. They found
+everything quite undisturbed; but, by the time they reached us,
+the wind had backed to the westward, and the weather become very
+wet, so that I determined to remain here till it improved.</p>
+<p>At ten A.M. on the 14th, the weather being fine, we launched
+our three boats and left Walden Island; but the wind backing more
+to the westward, we could only fetch into a bay on the opposite
+or southern shore, where we hauled the boats up on very rugged
+rocks, under cliffs about six hundred feet high, and of the same
+granite formation as Walden Island.</p>
+<p>The wind dying away on the morning of the 17th, we once more
+set out for the ship at nine A.M.; but having a second time
+nearly reached Shoal Point, were again met by a strong breeze as
+we opened Waygatz Strait, and were therefore obliged to land upon
+the low shore to the southward of Low Island.</p>
+<p>On the 18th of August the wind increased to a strong breeze
+from the S.W., with rain and sleet, which afterward changed to
+snow in some of the largest flakes I ever saw, completely
+changing the whole aspect of the land from summer to winter in a
+few hours. On the following morning we prepared to move at an
+early hour, but the wind backed more to the westward, and soon
+after increased to a gale, raising so much surf on the beach as
+to oblige us to haul the boats higher up. On the 20th, tired as
+we were of this tedious confinement, and anxious to reach the
+ship, the wind and sea were still too high to allow us to move,
+and it was not till half past seven A.M. on the following day
+that we could venture to launch the boats. Having now, by means
+of the driftwood, converted our paddles into oars, and being
+occasionally favoured by a light breeze, with a perfectly open
+sea, we made tolerable progress, and at half past four P.M. on
+the 21st of August, when within three or four miles of Hecla
+Cove, had the gratification of seeing a boat under sail coming
+out to meet us. Mr. Weir soon joined us in one of the cutters;
+and, after hearing good accounts of the safety of the ship, and
+of the welfare of all on board, together with a variety of
+details, to us of no small interest, we arrived on board at seven
+P.M., after an absence of sixty-one days, being received with
+that warm and cordial welcome which can alone be felt, and not
+described.</p>
+<p>I cannot conclude the account of our proceedings without
+endeavouring to do justice to the cheerful alacrity and unwearied
+zeal displayed by my companions, both officers and men, in the
+course of this excursion; and if steady perseverance and active
+exertion on their parts could have accomplished our object,
+success would undoubtedly have crowned our labours. I must also
+mention, to the credit of the officers of Woolwich dock-yard, who
+took so much pains in the construction of our boats, that,
+notwithstanding the constant and severe trial to which their
+strength had been put&mdash;and a more severe trial could not
+well be devised&mdash;not a timber was sprung, a plank split, or
+the smallest injury sustained by them; they were, indeed, as
+tight and as fit for service when we reached the ship as when
+they were first received on board, and in every respect answered
+the intended purpose admirably.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<br>
+
+<p>On my arrival on board, I learned from Lieutenant Crozier that
+Lieutenant Foster, finding that no farther disturbance from ice
+was to be apprehended, and after making an accurate plan of the
+bay and its neighbourhood, had proceeded on the survey of Waygatz
+Strait, and proposed returning by the 26th of August, the day to
+which I had limited his absence. I found the ship quite ready for
+sea, with the exception of getting on board the launch, with the
+stores deposited by my direction on the beach. Lieutenant
+Foster's report informed me that, after the ship had been hauled
+off the ground, they had again suffered considerable disturbance
+for several days, in consequence of some heavy masses of ice
+driving into the bay, which dragged the anchors, and again
+threatened them with a similar accident. However, after the
+middle of July, no ice had entered the bay, and, what is still
+more remarkable, not a piece had been seen in the offing for some
+weeks past, even after hard northerly and westerly gales.</p>
+<p>On the 22d of August, as soon as our people had enjoyed a good
+night's rest, we commenced bringing the stores on board from the
+beach, throwing out such a quantity of the stone ballast as was
+necessary for trimming the ship; after which the cables and
+hawsers were cast off from the shore, and the ship hauled off to
+single anchor. Lieutenant Foster returned on board on the 24th,
+having surveyed the greater part of the shores of the strait, as
+far to the southward as 79&deg; 33".</p>
+<p>Lieutenant Foster saw some seahorses (narwhals) and white
+whales in the course of this excursion, but no black whales; nor
+did we, in the whole course of the voyage, see any of these,
+except on the ground already frequented by our whalers on the
+western coast of Spitzbergen. It is remarkable, however, that the
+"crown-bones," and other parts of the skeleton of whales, are
+found in most parts where we landed on this coast. The shores of
+the strait, like all the rest in Spitzbergen, are lined with
+immense quantities of driftwood, wherever the nature of the coast
+will allow it to land.</p>
+<p>The animals met with here during the Hecla's stay were
+principally reindeer, bears, foxes, kittiwakes, glaucus and ivory
+gulls, tern, eider-ducks, and a few grouse. Looms and rotges were
+numerous in the offing. Seventy reindeer were killed, chiefly
+very small, and, until the middle of August, not in good
+condition. They were usually met with in herds of from six or
+eight to twenty, and were most abundant on the west and north
+sides of the bay. Three bears were killed, one of which was
+somewhat above the ordinary dimensions, measuring eight feet four
+inches from the snout to the insertion of the tail. The
+vegetation was tolerably abundant, especially on the western side
+of the bay, where the soil is good; a considerable collection of
+plants, as well as minerals, was made by Mr. Halse, and of birds
+by Mr. M'Cormick.</p>
+<p>The neighbourhood of this bay, like most of the northern
+shores of Spitzbergen, appears to have been much visited by the
+Dutch at a very early period; of which circumstance records are
+furnished on almost every spot where we landed, by the numerous
+graves which we met with. There are thirty of these on a point of
+land on the north side of the bay.<a name=
+'FNanchor_023_23'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_023_23'><sup>[023]</sup></a> The bodies are usually
+deposited in an oblong wooden coffin, which, on account of the
+difficulty of digging the ground, is not buried, but merely
+covered by large stones; and a board is generally placed near the
+head, having, either cut or painted upon it, the name of the
+deceased, with those of his ship and commander, and the month and
+year of his burial. Several of these were fifty or sixty years
+old; one bore the date of 1738; and another, which I found on the
+beach to the eastward of Hecla Cove, that of 1690; the
+inscription distinctly appearing in prominent relief, occasioned
+by the preservation of the wood by the paint, while the unpainted
+part had decayed around it.</p>
+<p>The officers who remained on board the Hecla during the summer
+described the weather as the most beautiful, and the climate
+altogether the most agreeable, they had ever experienced in the
+Polar Regions. Indeed, the Meteorological Journal shows a
+temperature, both of the air and of the sea water, to which we
+had before been altogether strangers within the Arctic Circle,
+and which goes far towards showing that the climate of
+Spitzbergen is a remarkably temperate one for its latitude.<a
+name='FNanchor_024_24'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_024_24'><sup>[024]</sup></a> It must, however, be
+observed, that this remark is principally applicable to the
+weather experienced <i>near the land</i>, that at sea being
+rendered of a totally different character by the almost continual
+presence of fogs; so that some of our most gloomy days upon the
+ice were among the finest in Hecla Cove, where, however, a good
+deal of rain fell in the course of the summer.</p>
+<p>The Hecla was ready for sea on the 25th of August; but the
+wind blowing fresh from the northward and westward prevented our
+moving till the evening of the 28th, when, the weather improving,
+we got under way from Hecla Cove, and, being favoured with a
+light air from the S.E., stood along the coast to the westward.
+On the evening of the 29th, when off Red Beach, we got on board
+our boat and other stores which had been left there, finding them
+undisturbed and in good order. The weather was beautifully fine,
+and the sun (to us for the first time for about four months) just
+dipped his lower limb into the sea at midnight, and then rose
+again. It was really wonderful to see that, upon this whole
+northern coast of Spitzbergen, where in May and June not a "hole"
+of clear water could be found, it would now have been equally
+difficult to discover a single mass of ice in any direction. This
+absence of ice now enabled us to see Moffen Island, which is so
+low and flat that it was before entirely hidden from our view by
+the hummocks. On rounding Hakluyt's Headland on the 30th, we came
+at once into a long swell, such as occurs only in places exposed
+to the whole range of the ocean, and, except a small or loose
+stream or two, we after this saw no more ice of any kind. On the
+31st we were off Prince Charles's Foreland, the middle part of
+which, about Cape Sietoe, appeared to be much the highest land we
+had seen in Spitzbergen; rising probably to an elevation of above
+four thousand feet.</p>
+<p>We had favourable winds to carry us clear of Spitzbergen; but
+after the 3d of September, and between the parallels of 70&deg;
+and 60&deg;, were detained by continual southerly and
+southwesterly breezes for a fortnight. On the evening of the 17th
+we made Shetland, and on the following day, being close off Balta
+Sound, and the wind blowing strong from the S.W., I anchored in
+the Voe at two P.M., to wait a more favourable breeze. We were
+here received by all that genuine hospitality for which the
+inhabitants of this northern part of the British dominions are so
+justly distinguished, and we gladly availed ourselves of the
+supplies with which their kindness furnished us.</p>
+<p>Early on the morning of the 19th of September, the wind
+suddenly shifted to the N.N.W., and almost immediately blew so
+strong a gale that we could not safely cast the ship until the
+evening, when we got under way and proceeded to the southward;
+but had not proceeded farther than Fair Island, when, after a few
+hours' calm, we were once more met by a southerly wind. Against
+this we continued to beat till the morning of the 23d, when,
+finding that we made but little progress, and that there was no
+appearance of an alteration of wind, I determined to put into
+Long Hope, in the Orkney Islands, to await a change in our
+favour, and accordingly ran in and anchored there as soon as the
+tide would permit.</p>
+<p>We found lying here his majesty's revenue cutter the
+Chichester; and Mr. Stuart, her commander, who was bound direct
+to Inverness, came on board as soon as we had anchored, to offer
+his services in any manner which might be useful. The wind died
+away in the course of the night of the 24th, and was succeeded on
+the following morning by a light air from the northward, when we
+immediately got under way; but had not entered the Pentland
+Firth, when it again fell calm and then backed to the southward,
+rendering it impossible to make any progress in that direction
+with a dull-sailing ship. I therefore determined on returning
+with the Hecla to the anchorage, and then taking advantage of Mr.
+Stuart's offer; and accordingly left the ship at eight A.M.,
+accompanied by Mr. Beverly, to proceed to Inverness in the
+Chichester, and from thence by land to London, in order to lay
+before his royal highness the lord high admiral, without farther
+delay, an account of our proceedings. By the zealous exertions of
+Mr. Stuart, for which I feel greatly obliged to that gentleman,
+we arrived off Fort George the following morning, and, landing at
+Inverness at noon, immediately set off for London, and arrived at
+the Admiralty on the morning of the 29th of September.</p>
+<p>Owing to the continuance of southerly winds, the Hecla did not
+arrive in the river Thames until the 6th of October, when I was
+sorry, though not surprised, to learn the death of Mr. George
+Crawford, the Greenland master, who departed this life on the
+29th of September, sincerely lamented by all who knew him, as a
+zealous, active, and enterprising seaman, and an amiable and
+deserving man. Mr. Crawford had accompanied us in five successive
+voyages to the Polar Seas, and I truly regret the occasion which
+demands from me this public testimony of the value of his
+services and the excellence of his character.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<br>
+
+<p>Having finished my Narrative of this Attempt to reach the
+North Pole, I may perhaps be permitted, in conclusion, to offer
+such remarks as have lately occurred to me on the nature and
+practicability of the enterprise.</p>
+<p>That the object is of still more difficult attainment than was
+before supposed, even by those persons who were the best
+qualified to judge of it, will, I believe, appear evident from a
+perusal of the foregoing pages; nor can I, after much
+consideration and some experience of the various difficulties
+which belong to it, recommend any material improvement in the
+plan lately adopted. Among the various schemes suggested for this
+purpose, it has been proposed to set out from Spitzbergen, and to
+make a rapid journey to the northward with sledges or
+sledge-boats, drawn wholly by dogs or reindeer; but, however
+feasible this plan may at first sight appear, I cannot say that
+our late experience of the nature of the ice which they would
+probably have to encounter has been at all favourable to it. It
+would, of course, be a matter of extreme imprudence to set out on
+this enterprise without the means of crossing, not merely narrow
+pools and "lanes," but more extensive spaces of open water, such
+as we met with between the margin of the ice and the Spitzbergen
+shores; and I do not conceive that any boat sufficiently large to
+be efficient and safe for this purpose could possibly be managed
+upon the ice, were the power employed to give it motion dependant
+on dogs or reindeer. On the contrary, it was a frequent subject
+of remark among the officers, that reason was a qualification
+scarcely less indispensable than strength and activity in
+travelling over such a road; daily instances occurring of our
+having to pass over difficult places, which no other animal than
+man could have been easily prevailed upon to attempt. Indeed, the
+constant necessity of launching and hauling up the boats (which
+operations we had frequently to perform eight or ten, and, on one
+occasion, seventeen times in the same day) would alone render it
+inexpedient, in my opinion, to depend chiefly upon animals; for
+it would certainly require more time and labour to get them into
+and out of the boats, than their services in the intervals, or
+their flesh ultimately used as food, would be worth; especially
+when it is considered how large a weight of provender must be
+carried for their own subsistence.<a name=
+'FNanchor_025_25'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_025_25'><sup>[025]</sup></a></p>
+<p>In case of employing reindeer, which, from their strength,
+docility, and hardy habits, appear the best suited to this kind
+of travelling, there would be an evident advantage in setting out
+much earlier in the year than we did; perhaps about the end of
+April, when the ice is less broken up, and the snow much harder
+upon its surface than at a more advanced part of the season. But
+this, it must be recollected, would involve the necessity of
+passing the previous winter on the northern coast of Spitzbergen,
+which, even under favourable circumstances, would probably tend
+to weaken in some degree the energies of the men; while, on the
+other hand, it would be next to impossible to procure there a
+supply of provender for a number of tame reindeer, sufficient
+even to keep them alive, much less in tolerable condition, during
+a whole winter. In addition to this, it may be observed, that any
+party setting out earlier must be provided with a much greater
+weight of warm clothing in order to guard against the severity of
+cold, and also with an increased proportion of fuel for procuring
+water by the melting of snow, there being no fresh water upon the
+ice in these latitudes before the month of June.</p>
+<p>In the kind of provisions proper to be employed in such
+enterprises&mdash;a very important consideration, where almost
+the whole difficulty may be said to resolve itself into a
+question of weight&mdash;I am not aware that any improvement
+could be made upon that with which we were furnished; for I know
+of none which appears to contain so much nutriment in so small a
+weight and compass. It may be useful, however, to remark, as the
+result of absolute experience, that our daily allowance of
+provisions,<a name='FNanchor_026_26'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_026_26'><sup>[026]</sup></a> although previously tried
+for some days on board the ship, and then considered to be
+enough, proved by no means sufficient to support the strength of
+men living constantly in the open air, exposed to wet and cold
+for at least twelve hours a day, seldom enjoying the luxury of a
+warm meal, and having to perform the kind of labour to which our
+people were subject. I have before remarked, that, previously to
+our return to the ship, our strength was considerably impaired;
+and, indeed, there is reason to believe that, very soon after
+entering upon the ice, the physical energies of the men were
+gradually diminishing, although, for the first few weeks, they
+did not appear to labour under any specific complaint. This
+diminution of strength, which we considered to be principally
+owing to the want of sufficient sustenance, became apparent, even
+after a fortnight, in the lifting of the bread-bags and other
+heavy weights; and I have no doubt that, in spite of every care
+on the part of the officers, as well as Mr. Beverly's skilful and
+humane attention to their ailments, some of the men, who had
+begun to fail before we quitted the ice, would, in a week or two
+longer, have suffered very severely, and become a serious
+encumbrance, instead of an assistance, to our party. As far as we
+were able to judge, without farther trial, Mr. Beverly and myself
+were of opinion that, in order to maintain the strength of men
+thus employed for several weeks together, an addition would be
+requisite of at least one third more to the provisions which we
+daily issued. I need scarcely remark how much this would increase
+the difficulty of equipping such an expedition.</p>
+<p>I cannot dismiss the subject of this enterprise without
+attempting to explain, as far as I am able, how it may have
+happened that the ice over which we passed was found to answer so
+little to the description of that observed by the respectable
+authorities quoted in a former part of this volume.<a name=
+'FNanchor_027_27'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_027_27'><sup>[027]</sup></a> It frequently occurred to
+us, in the course of our daily journeys, that this may, in some
+degree, have arisen from our navigators' having generally viewed
+the ice from a considerable height. The only clear and commanding
+view on board a ship is that from the crow's-nest; and Phipps's
+most important remarks concerning the nature of the ice to the
+north of Spitzbergen were made from a station several hundred
+feet above the sea; and, as it is well known how much the most
+experienced eye may thus be deceived, it is possible enough that
+the irregularities which cost us so much time and labour may,
+when viewed in this manner, have entirely escaped notice, and the
+whole surface have appeared one smooth and level plain.</p>
+<p>It is, moreover, possible, that the broken state in which we
+unexpectedly found the ice may have arisen, at least in part,
+from an unusually wet season, preceded, perhaps, by a winter of
+less than ordinary severity. Of the latter we have no means of
+judging, there being no record, that I am aware of, of the
+temperature of that or any other winter passed in the higher
+latitudes; but, on comparing our Meteorological Register with
+some others kept during the corresponding season and about the
+same latitude,<a name='FNanchor_028_28'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_028_28'><sup>[028]</sup></a> it does appear that,
+though no material difference is observable in the mean
+temperature of the atmosphere, the quantity of rain which we
+experienced is considerably greater than usual; and it is well
+known how very rapidly ice is dissolved by a fall of rain. At all
+events, from whatever cause it may have arisen, it is certain
+that, about the meridian on which we proceeded northward in the
+boats, the sea was in a totally different state from what Phipps
+experienced, as may be seen from comparing our accounts&mdash;his
+ship being closely beset, near the Seven Islands, for several
+days about the beginning of August; whereas the Hecla, in the
+beginning of June, sailed about in the same neighbourhood without
+obstruction, and, before the close of July, not a piece of ice
+could be seen from Little Table Island.</p>
+<p>I may add, in conclusion, that, before the middle of August,
+when we left the ice in our boats, a ship might have sailed to
+the latitude, of 82&deg; almost without touching a piece of ice;
+and it was the general opinion among us, that, by the end of that
+month, it would probably have been no very difficult matter to
+reach the parallel of 83&deg;, about the meridian of the Seven
+Islands.</p>
+<br>
+
+<p>THE END.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<br>
+
+<p>FOOTNOTES</p>
+<a name='Footnote_001_1'></a><a href='#FNanchor_001_1'>[001]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>This name being applied by the Esquimaux to several other
+portions of land, all of which are insular, or nearly so, it is
+probable that the word simply signifies an island.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_002_2'></a><a href='#FNanchor_002_2'>[002]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>The expression "fixed ice" appearing better suited to our
+present obstacle than that of "land ice," I shall in future adopt
+it in speaking of this barrier.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_003_3'></a><a href='#FNanchor_003_3'>[003]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>Lest it should be thought that this account is exaggerated, I
+may here state, that, as a matter of curiosity, we one day tried
+how much a lad, scarcely full grown, would, if freely supplied,
+consume in this way. The under-mentioned articles were weighed
+before being given to him; he was twenty hours in getting through
+them, and certainly did not consider the quantity
+extraordinary.</p>
+</div>
+<pre>
+                                      lb.   oz.
+  Seahorse flesh, hard frozen          4     4
+  Ditto,     boiled                    4     4
+  Bread and bread-dust                 1    12
+                                      ________
+
+        Total of solids               10     4
+  The Fluids were in fair proportion, viz.:
+  Rich gravy-soup                      1-1/4 pint.
+  Raw spirits                          3 wine glasses.
+  Strong grog.                         1 tumbler.
+  Water                                1 gallon 1 pint.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name='Footnote_004_4'></a><a href='#FNanchor_004_4'>[004]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>We have since heard that these ships were the Dexterity, of
+Leith, and the Aurora, of Hull, which were wrecked on the 28th of
+August, 1821, about the latitude of 72&deg;.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_005_5'></a><a href='#FNanchor_005_5'>[005]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>A fine lad, of about sixteen, being one day out in a boat with
+one of our gentlemen at Arlagnuk, reminded him, with a serious
+face, that he had laid a gun down <i>full-cocked</i>. There
+happened to be no charge in the gun at the time; but this was a
+proof of the attention the boy had paid to the art of using
+firearms, as well as an instance of considerate and manly
+caution, scarcely to have been expected in an individual of that
+age.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_006_6'></a><a href='#FNanchor_006_6'>[006]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>Most Greenland sailors use these; but many persons, both
+officers and men, have an absurd prejudice against what they call
+"wearing stays."</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_007_7'></a><a href='#FNanchor_007_7'>[007]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>It is remarkable that this poor man had, twice before, within
+the space of nine months, been very near death; for, besides the
+accident already mentioned, of falling down the hill when
+escaping from the bear, he was also in imminent danger of dying
+of dropsy during the winter.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_008_8'></a><a href='#FNanchor_008_8'>[008]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>This birch, they said, had been procured from the southward by
+way of <i>Noowook</i>. We never met with any of the same kind in
+those parts of the country which we visited, except that observed
+by Captain Lyon in the deserted habitations of the Esquimaux near
+Five Hawser Bay.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_009_9'></a><a href='#FNanchor_009_9'>[009]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>Toolooak, who was a frequent visitor at the young gentlemen's
+mess-table on board the Fury, once evinced this taste, and no
+small cunning at the same time, by asking alternately for a
+little more bread and a little more butter, till he had made a
+hearty meal.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_010_10'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_010_10'>[010]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>Cervical, 7; dorsal, 13; lumbar, 7; sacral, 3; caudal, 19.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_011_11'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_011_11'>[011]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>Cartwright's <i>Labrador</i>, iii., 232.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_012_12'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_012_12'>[012]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>Ledyard. <i>Proceedings of the African Association</i>, vol i,
+p. 30.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_013_13'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_013_13'>[013]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>The first travelling boat, which was built by way of
+experiment, was planked differently from these two; the planks,
+which were of half-inch oak, being ingeniously "tongued" together
+with copper, in order to save the necessity of caulking in case
+of the wood shrinking. This was the boat subsequently landed on
+Red Beach.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_014_14'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_014_14'>[014]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>This article of our equipment contains a large proportion of
+nutriment in a small weight and compass, and is therefore
+invaluable on such occasions. The process, which requires great
+attention, consists in drying large thin slices of the lean of
+the meat over the smoke of wood-fires, then pounding it, and
+lastly mixing it with about an equal weight of its own fat. In
+this state it is quite ready for use, without farther
+cooking.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_015_15'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_015_15'>[015]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>The merits of this simple but valuable invention being now too
+well known to require any detailed account of the experiments, it
+is only necessary for me to remark, in this place, that the
+compass, having the plate attached to it, gave, under all
+circumstances, the correct magnetic bearing.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_016_16'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_016_16'>[016]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>It is remarkable, that the Esquimaux word for boot is very
+like this&mdash;Kameega.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_017_17'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_017_17'>[017]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>I find it to be the universal opinion among the most
+experienced of our whalers, that there is much less ice met with,
+of late years, in getting to the northward, in these latitudes,
+than formerly was the case. Mr. Scoresby, to whose very valuable
+local information, contained in his "Account of the Arctic
+Regions," I have been greatly indebted on this occasion, mentions
+the circumstance as a generally received fact.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_018_18'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_018_18'>[018]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>It was probably some such gale as this which has given to
+Hakluyt's Headland, in an old Dutch chart, the appellation of
+"Duyvel's Hoek."</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_019_19'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_019_19'>[019]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>I have been thus particular in noticing the Hecla's position,
+because our observations would appear to be, with one exception,
+the most northern on record at that time. The Commissioners of
+Longitude, in their memorial to the king in council, in the year
+1821, consider that the "progress of discovery has not arrived
+northward, according to any well-authenticated accounts, so far
+as eighty-one degrees of north latitude." Mr. Scoresby states his
+having observed in lat. 81&deg; 12' 42".</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_020_20'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_020_20'>[020]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>Had we succeeded in reaching the higher latitudes, where the
+change of the sun's altitude during the twenty-four hours is
+still less perceptible, it would have been essentially necessary
+to possess the certain means of knowing this; since an error of
+twelve hours of time would have carried us, when we intended to
+return, on a meridian opposite to, or 180&deg; from, the right
+one. To obviate the possibility of this, we had some chronometers
+constructed by Messrs. Parkinson and Frodsham, of which the
+hour-hand made only one revolution in the day, the twenty-four
+hours being marked round the dial-plate.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_021_21'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_021_21'>[021]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>I may here mention, that, notwithstanding the heavy blows
+which the boats were constantly receiving, all our nautical and
+astronomical instruments were taken back to the ship without
+injury. This circumstance makes it, perhaps, worth while to
+explain, that they were lashed upon a wooden platform in the
+after locker of each boat, sufficiently small to be clear of the
+boat's sides, and playing on strong springs of whalebone, which
+entirely obviated the effects of the severe concussions to which
+they would otherwise have been subject.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_022_22'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_022_22'>[022]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>We found the best preservative against this glare to be a pair
+of spectacles, having the glass of a bluish-green colour, and
+with side-screens to them.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_023_23'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_023_23'>[023]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>Perhaps the name of this bay, from the Dutch word
+<i>Treuren</i>, "to lament, or be mournful," may have some
+reference to the graves found here.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_024_24'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_024_24'>[024]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>Mr. Crowe, of Hammerfest, who lately passed a winter on the
+southwestern coast of Spitzbergen, in about latitude 78&deg;,
+informed me that he had <i>rain at Christmas</i>; a phenomenon
+which would indeed have astonished us at any of our former
+wintering stations in a much lower latitude. Perhaps the
+circumstance of the reindeer wintering at Spitzbergen may also be
+considered a proof of a comparatively temperate climate.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_025_25'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_025_25'>[025]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p><a name='a003_2'></a><a href='#a003'>See p. 254 of this
+volume.</a></p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_026_26'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_026_26'>[026]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p><a name='a002_2'></a><a href='#a002'>See p. 280 of this
+volume.</a></p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_027_27'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_027_27'>[027]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p><a name='a001_2'></a><a href='#a001'>See Introduction.</a></p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_028_28'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_028_28'>[028]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>Particularly that of Mr. Scoresby during the month of July,
+from 1812 to 1818 inclusive, and Captain Franklin's for July and
+August, 1818.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+<br>
+<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14350 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
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+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
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+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #14350 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/14350)
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Three Voyages for the Discovery of a
+Northwest Passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and Narrative of an
+Attempt to Reach the North Pole, Volume 2 (of 2), by Sir William Edward
+Parry
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Three Voyages for the Discovery of a Northwest Passage from the
+Atlantic to the Pacific, and Narrative of an Attempt to Reach the North
+Pole, Volume 2 (of 2)
+
+Author: Sir William Edward Parry
+
+Release Date: December 14, 2004  [eBook #14350]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THREE VOYAGES FOR THE DISCOVERY OF
+A NORTHWEST PASSAGE FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC, AND NARRATIVE OF AN
+ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NORTH POLE, VOLUME 2 (OF 2)***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Robert Connal, David Gundry, and the Project Gutenberg
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team from images generously made available
+by the Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note:
+   The character = preceeding a vowel is used to indicate that the
+   vowel is to be pronounced long.
+   The character ~ preceeding a vowel is used to indicate that the
+   vowel is to be pronounced short.
+   These characters do not occur otherwise.
+
+
+
+
+
+THREE VOYAGES FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A NORTHWEST PASSAGE FROM THE ATLANTIC
+TO THE PACIFIC, AND NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NORTH POLE,
+VOLUME II
+
+by
+
+SIR W. E. PARRY, CAPT. R.N., F.R.S.
+
+In Two Volumes.
+
+1844
+
+New-York:
+Harper & Brothers, 82 Cliff-Street.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+OF
+
+THE SECOND VOLUME.
+
+
+
+
+
+SECOND VOYAGE
+
+CONTINUED.
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+    Departure from Winter Island.--Meet with some Esquimaux travelling
+    to the Northward.--Obstruction and Danger from the Ice and
+    Tides.--Discovery of the Barrow River, and its Fall.--Favourable
+    Passage to the Northward.--Arrival off the Strait of the Fury and
+    Hecla.--Progress opposed by a fixed barrier of Ice.--Communicate
+    with the Natives of Igloolik.--Unsuccessful Attempt to get between
+    the Ice and the Land.--Land upon the Calthorpe Islands.--The Fury
+    drifted by the Ice between two Islands.--Account of a Journey
+    performed in Sledges up an Inlet to the Westward.
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+    A Whale killed.--Other Charts drawn by the Esquimaux.--Account of a
+    Journey to the Narrows of the Strait.--Discovery of the Sea to the
+    Westward.--Total Disruption of the Ice at the Eastern Entrance of
+    the Strait.--Instance of local Attraction on the Compasses.--Sail
+    through the Narrows, and again stopped by fixed Ice.--Account of
+    several Land Journeys and Boat Excursions.--Observations on the
+    Tides.--Continued Obstacles from fixed Ice.
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+    A Journey performed along the South Shore of Cockburn
+    Island.--Confirmation of an Outlet to the Polar Sea.--Partial
+    Disruption of the Old Ice, and formation of New.--Return through
+    the Narrows to the Eastward.--Proceed to examine the Coast to the
+    Northeastward.--Fury's Anchor broken.--Stand over to Igloolik to
+    look for Winter-quarters.--Excursion to the Head of Quilliam
+    Creek.--Ships forced to the Westward by Gales of Wind.--A Canal
+    sawed through the Ice, and the Ships secured in their Winter
+    Station.--Continued Visits of the Esquimaux, and Arrival of some of
+    the Winter Island Tribe.--Proposed Plan of Operations in the ensuing
+    Spring.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+    Preparations for the Winter.--Various Meteorological Phenomena to
+    the close of the year 1822.--Sickness among the
+    Esquimaux.--Meteorological Phenomena to the end of March.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+    Various Journeys to the Esquimaux Stations.--Preparations for the
+    Hecla's Return to England.--Remarkable Halos, &c.--Shooting Parties
+    stationed at Arlagnuk.--Journeys to Quilliam Creek.--Arrival of
+    Esquimaux from the Northward.--Account of a Journey to the Westward
+    for the purpose of reaching the Polar Sea.--The Esquimaux report two
+    Fishing-ships having been Wrecked.--A Journey performed to Cockburn
+    Island.--Discovery of Murray Maxwell Inlet
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+    Extraordinary Disruption of Ice in Quilliam Creek.--Some Appearance
+    of Scurvy among the Seamen and Marines--Discovery of Gifford
+    River.--Commence cutting the Ice outside the Ships to release them
+    from their Winter-quarters.--Considerations respecting the Return of
+    the Expedition to England.--Unfavourable State of the Ice at the
+    Eastern Entrance of the Strait.--Proceed to the Southward.--Ships
+    beset and drifted up Lyon Inlet.--Decease of Mr. George Fife.--Final
+    Release from the Ice, and Arrival in England.--Remarks upon the
+    practicability of a Northwest Passage.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THIRD VOYAGE
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+    Passage to the Whale-fish Islands, and Removal of Stores from the
+    Transport.--Enter the Ice in Baffin's Bay.--Difficulties of
+    Penetrating to the Westward.--Quit the Ice in Baffin's Bay.--Remarks
+    on the Obstructions encountered by the Ships, and on the Severity of
+    the Season.
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+    Enter Sir James Lancaster's Sound.--Land at Cape Warrender.--Meet
+    with young Ice.--Ships beset and carried near the Shore.--Driven
+    back to Navy-board Inlet.--Run to the Westward, and enter Prince
+    Regent's Inlet.--Arrival at Port Bowen.
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+    Winter Arrangements.--Improvements in Warming and Ventilating the
+    Ships.--Masquerades adopted as an Amusement to the
+    Men.--Establishment of Schools.--Astronomical
+    Observations.--Meteorological Phenomena
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+    Re-equipment of the Ships.--Several Journeys undertaken.--Open Water
+    in the Offing.--Commence sawing a Canal to liberate the
+    Ships.--Disruption of the Ice.--Departure from Port Bowen.
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+    Sail over towards the Western Coast of Prince Regent's
+    Inlet.--Stopped by the Ice.--Reach the Shore about Cape
+    Seppings.--Favourable Progress along the Land.--Fresh and repeated
+    Obstructions from Ice.--Both Ships driven on Shore.--Fury seriously
+    damaged.--Unsuccessful Search for a Harbour for heaving her down to
+    repair.
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+    Formation of a Basin for heaving the Fury down.--Landing of the
+    Fury's Stores, and other Preparations.--The Ships secured within the
+    Basin.--Impediments from the Pressure of the Ice.--Fury, hove
+    down.--Securities of the Basin destroyed by a Gale of
+    Wind.--Preparations to tow the Fury out.--Hecla Re-equipped, and
+    obliged to put to Sea.--Fury again driven on Shore.--Rejoin the
+    Fury; and find it necessary finally to abandon her.
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+    Some Remarks upon the Loss of the Fury--And on the Natural History,
+    &c, of the Coast of North Somerset.--Arrive at Neill's
+    Harbour.--Death of John Page.--Leave Neill's Harbour.--Recross the
+    Ice in Baffin's Bay.--Heavy Gales.--Temperature of the Sea.--Arrival
+    in England.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ACCOUNT OF THE ESQUIMAUX
+
+NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NORTH POLE IN BOATS
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+SECOND VOYAGE
+
+FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A
+
+NORTHWEST PASSAGE.
+
+CONTINUED.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+    Departure from Winter Island.--Meet with some Esquimaux travelling
+    to the Northward.--Obstruction and Danger from the Ice and
+    Tides.--Discovery of the Barrow River, and its Fall.--Favourable
+    Passage to the Northward.--Arrival off the Strait of the Fury and
+    Hecla.--Progress opposed by a fixed barrier of Ice.--Communicate
+    with the Natives of Igloolik.--Unsuccessful Attempt to get between
+    the Ice and the Land--Land upon the Calthorpe Islands.--The Fury
+    drifted by the Ice between two Islands.--Account of a Journey
+    performed in Sledges up an Inlet to the westward.
+
+
+
+
+The gale, which had for some time been blowing from the northward,
+veered to the N.W.b.W., and increased in strength on the 1st of July,
+which soon began to produce the effect of drifting the ice off the land.
+At six o'clock on the 2d, the report from the hill being favourable, and
+the wind and weather now also sufficiently so, we moved out of our
+winter's dock, which was, indeed, in part broken to pieces by the swell
+that had lately set into the bay. At seven we made sail, with a fresh
+breeze from W.N.W., and having cleared the rocks at the entrance of the
+bay, ran quickly to the northward and eastward. The ice in the offing
+was of the "hummocky" kind, and drifting rapidly about with the tides,
+leaving us a navigable channel varying in width from two miles to three
+or four hundred yards.
+
+The closeness of the ice again obliging us to make fast on the 3d, we
+soon after perceived a party of people with a sledge upon the land-floe.
+I therefore sent Mr. Bushnan, with some of our men, to meet them and to
+bring them on board, being desirous of ascertaining whereabout,
+according to their geography, we now were. We found the party to
+consist, as we expected, of those who had taken leave of us forty days
+before on their departure to the northward, and who now readily
+accompanied our people to the ships; leaving only Togolat's idiot-boy by
+the sledge, tying him to a dog and the dog to the ice. As soon as they
+came under the bows, they halted in a line, and, according to their
+former promise, gave three cheers, which salutation a few of us on the
+forecastle did not fail to return. As soon as they got on board they
+expressed extreme joy at seeing us again, repeated each of our names
+with great earnestness, and were, indeed, much gratified by this
+unexpected encounter. Ewerat being now mounted on the plank which goes
+across the gunwales of our ships for conning them conveniently among the
+ice, explained, in a very clear and pilot-like manner, that the island
+which we observed to lie off Cape Wilson was that marked by Iligliuk in
+one of her charts, and there called _Awlikteewik_, pronounced by Ewerat
+_Ow-l=itt~ee-week_. On asking how many days' journey it was still to
+Amitioke, they all agreed in saying ten; and back to Winter Island
+_oon=o=oktoot_ (a great many), so that we had good reason to hope we
+were not far from the former place. I may at once remark, however, that
+great caution is requisite in judging of the information these people
+give of the distances from one place to another, as expressed by the
+number of _se=eniks_ (sleeps) or days' journeys, to which, in other
+countries, a definite value is affixed. No two Esquimaux will give the
+same account in this respect, though each is equally desirous of
+furnishing correct information; for, besides their deficiency as
+arithmeticians, which renders the enumeration of ten a labour, and of
+fifteen almost an impossibility to many of them, each individual forms
+his idea of the distance according to the season of the year, and,
+consequently, the mode of travelling in which his own journey has been
+performed. Instances of this kind will be observed in the charts of the
+Esquimaux, in which they not only differ from each other in this
+respect, but the same individual differs from himself at different
+times. It is only, therefore, by a careful comparison of the various
+accounts, and by making allowances for the different circumstances under
+which the journeys have been made, that these apparent inconsistencies
+can be reconciled, and an approximation to the truth obtained.
+
+Many of our officers and men cordially greeted these poor people as old
+acquaintances they were glad to see again, and they were loaded, as
+usual, with numerous presents, of which the only danger to be
+apprehended was lest they should go mad on account of them. The women
+screamed in a convulsive manner at everything they received, and cried
+for five minutes together with the excess of their joy; and to the
+honour of "John Bull" be it recorded, he sent by one of the men as he
+left the ship a piece of sealskin, as a present to _Parree_, being the
+first offering of real gratitude, and without any expectation of return,
+that I had ever received from any of them. I never saw them express more
+surprise than on being assured that we had left Winter Island only a
+single day; a circumstance which might well excite their wonder,
+considering that they had themselves been above forty in reaching our
+present station. They had obtained one reindeer, and had now a large
+seal on their sledge, to which we added a quantity of bread-dust, that
+seemed acceptable enough to them. As our way lay in the same direction
+as theirs, I would gladly have taken their whole establishment on board
+the ships to convey them to Amitioke, but for the uncertain nature of
+this navigation, which might eventually have put it out of my power to
+land them at the precise place of their destination. The ice again
+opening, we were now obliged to dismiss them, after half an hour's
+visit, when, having run to the Hecla's bows to see Captain Lyon and his
+people, they returned to their sledge as fast as their loads of presents
+would allow them.
+
+We continued our progress northward, contending with the flood-tide and
+the drifting masses of ice; and the difficulties of such a navigation
+may be conceived from the following description of what happened to us
+on the 9th.
+
+At half past eight on the morning of the 9th, a considerable space of
+open water being left to the northward of us by the ice that had broken
+off the preceding night, I left the Fury in a boat for the purpose of
+sounding along the shore in that direction, in readiness for moving
+whenever the Hecla should be enabled to rejoin us. I found the soundings
+regular in almost every part, and had just landed to obtain a view from
+an eminence, when I was recalled by a signal from the Fury, appointed to
+inform me of the approach of any ice. On my return, I found the external
+body once more in rapid motion to the southward with the flood-tide, and
+assuming its usual threatening appearance. For an hour or two the Fury
+was continually grazed, and sometimes heeled over by a degree of
+pressure which, under any other circumstances, would not have been
+considered a moderate one, but which the last two or three days'
+navigation had taught us to disregard, when compared with what we had
+reason almost every moment to expect. A little before noon a heavy floe,
+some miles in length, being probably a part of that lately detached from
+the shore, came driving down fast towards us, giving us serious reason
+to apprehend some more fatal catastrophe than any we had yet
+encountered. In a few minutes it came in contact, at the rate of a mile
+and a half an hour, with a point of the land-ice left the preceding
+night by its own separation, breaking it up with a tremendous crash, and
+forcing numberless immense masses, perhaps many tons in weight, to the
+height of fifty or sixty feet, from whence they again rolled down on the
+inner or land side, and were quickly succeeded by a fresh supply. While
+we were obliged to be quiet spectators of this grand but terrific
+sight, being within five or six hundred yards of the point, the danger
+to ourselves was twofold; first, lest the floe should now swing in, and
+serve us much in the same manner; and, secondly, lest its pressure
+should detach the land-ice to which we were secured, and thus set us
+adrift and at the mercy of the tides. Happily, however, neither of these
+occurred, the floe remaining stationary for the rest of the tide, and
+setting off with the ebb which made soon after. In the mean while the
+Hecla had been enabled to get under sail, and was making considerable
+progress towards us, which determined me to move the Fury as soon as
+possible from her present situation into the bight I had sounded in the
+morning, where we made fast in five and a half fathoms alongside some
+very heavy grounded ice, one third of a mile from a point of land lying
+next to the northward of Cape Wilson, and which is low for a short
+distance next the sea. At nine o'clock a large mass of ice fell off the
+land-floe and struck our stern; and a "calf" lying under it, having lost
+its superincumbent weight, rose to the surface with considerable force,
+lifting our rudder violently in its passage, but doing no material
+injury.
+
+On the 12th, observing an opening in the land like a river, I left the
+ship in a boat to examine the soundings of the coast. On approaching the
+opening, we found so strong a current setting out of it as to induce me
+to taste the water, which proved scarcely brackish; and a little closer
+in, perfectly fresh, though the depth was from fourteen to fifteen
+fathoms. As this stream was a sufficient security against any ice coming
+in, I determined to anchor the ships somewhere in its neighbourhood;
+and, having laid down a buoy in twelve fathoms, off the north point of
+the entrance, returned on board, when I found all the boats ahead
+endeavouring to tow the ships in-shore. This could be effected, however,
+only by getting them across the stream of the inlet to the northern
+shore; and here, finding some land-ice, the ships were secured late at
+night, after several hours of extreme labour to the people in the boats.
+
+On the morning of the 13th, the ice being still close in with the land
+just to the northward of us, I determined on examining the supposed
+river in the boats, and, at the same time, to try our luck with the
+seines, as the place appeared a likely one for salmon. Immediately on
+opening the inlet we encountered a rapid current setting outward, and,
+after rowing a mile and a half to the N.W.b.W., the breadth of the
+stream varying from one third of a mile to four or five hundred yards,
+came to some shoal water extending quite across. Landing on the south
+shore and hauling the boats up above high-water mark, we rambled up the
+banks of the stream, which are low next the water, but rise almost
+immediately to the height of about two hundred feet. As we proceeded we
+gradually heard the noise of a fall of water; and being presently
+obliged to strike more inland, as the bank became more precipitous, soon
+obtained a fresh view of the stream running on a much higher level than
+before, and dashing with great impetuosity down two small cataracts.
+Just below this, however, where the river turns almost at a right angle,
+we perceived a much greater spray, as well as a louder sound; and,
+having walked a short distance down the bank, suddenly came upon the
+principal fall, of whose magnificence I am at a loss to give any
+adequate description. At the head of the fall, or where it commences its
+principal descent, the river is contracted to about one hundred and
+fifty feet in breadth, the channel being hollowed out through a solid
+rock of gneiss.
+
+After falling about fifteen feet at angle of 30° with a vertical line,
+the width of the stream is still narrowed to about forty yards, and
+then, as if mustering its whole force previous to its final descent, is
+precipitated, in one vast, continuous sheet of water, almost
+perpendicular for ninety feet more. The dashing of the water from such a
+height produced the usual accompaniment of a cloud of spray broad
+columns of which were constantly forced up like the successive rushes of
+smoke from a vast furnace, and on this, near the top, a vivid _iris_ or
+rainbow was occasionally formed by the bright rays of an unclouded sun.
+The basin that receives the water at the foot of the fall is nearly of a
+circular form, and about four hundred yards in diameter, being rather
+wider than the river immediately below it.
+
+After remaining nearly an hour, fixed, as it were, to the spot by the
+novelty and magnificence of the scene before us, we continued our walk
+upward along the banks; and after passing the two smaller cataracts,
+found the river again increased in width to above two hundred yards,
+winding in the most romantic manner imaginable among the hills, and
+preserving, a smooth and unruffled surface for a distance of three or
+four miles that we traced it to the southwest above the fall. What
+added extremely to the beauty of this picturesque river, which Captain
+Lyon and myself named after our friend Mr. BARROW, Secretary to the
+Admiralty, was the richness of the vegetation on its banks, the
+enlivening brilliancy of a cloudless sky, and the animation given to the
+scene by several reindeer that were grazing beside the stream. Our
+sportsmen were fortunate in obtaining four of these animals; but we had
+no success with the seines, the ground proving altogether too rocky to
+use them with advantage or safety. We returned on board at thirty
+minutes past two P.M., after the most gratifying visit we had ever paid
+to the shore in these regions.
+
+We found on our return that a fresh, southerly breeze, which had been
+blowing for several hours, had driven the ice to some distance from the
+land; so that at four P.M., as soon as the flood-tide had slackened, we
+cast off and made all possible sail to the northward, steering for a
+headland, remarkable for having a patch of land towards the sea, that
+appeared insular in sailing along shore. As we approached this headland,
+which I named after my friend Mr. PENRHYN, the prospect became more and
+more enlivening; for the sea was found to be navigable in a degree very
+seldom experienced in these regions, and, the land trending two or three
+points to the westward of north, gave us reason to hope we should now be
+enabled to take a decided and final turn in that anxiously desired
+direction. As we rounded Cape Penrhyn at seven P.M., we began gradually
+to lose sight of the external body of ice, sailing close along that
+which was still attached in very heavy floes to this part of the coast.
+Both wind and tide being favourable, our progress was rapid, and
+unobstructed, and nothing could exceed the interest and delight with
+which so unusual an event was hailed by us. Before midnight the wind
+came more off the land, and then became light and variable, after which
+it settled in the northwest, with thick weather for several hours.
+
+In the course of this day the walruses became more and more numerous
+every hour, lying in large herds upon the loose pieces of drift-ice; and
+it having fallen calm at one P.M., we despatched our boats to kill some
+for the sake of the oil which they afford. On approaching the ice, our
+people found them huddled close to, and even lying upon, one another, in
+separate droves of from twelve to thirty, the whole number near the
+boats being perhaps about two hundred..Most of them waited quietly to be
+fired at: and even after one or two discharges did not seem to be
+greatly disturbed, but allowed the people to land on the ice near them,
+and, when approached, showed an evident disposition to give battle.
+After they had got into the water, three were struck with harpoons and
+killed from the boats. When first wounded they became quite furious, and
+one, which had been struck from Captain Lyon's boat, made a resolute
+attack upon her and injured several of the planks with its enormous
+tusks. A number of the others came round them, also repeatedly striking
+the wounded animals with their tusks, with the intention either of
+getting them away, or else of joining in the attack upon them. Many of
+these animals had young ones, which, when assaulted, they either took
+between their fore-flippers to carry off, or bore away on their backs.
+Both of those killed by the Fury's boats were females, and the weight of
+the largest was fifteen hundred and two quarters nearly; but it was by
+no means remarkable for the largeness of its dimensions. The peculiar
+barking noise made by the walrus when irritated, may be heard, on a calm
+day, with great distinctness at the distance of two miles at least. We
+found musket-balls the most certain and expeditious way of despatching
+them after they had been once struck with the harpoon, the thickness of
+their skin being such that whale-lances generally bend without
+penetrating it. One of these creatures being accidentally touched by one
+of the oars in Lieutenant Nias's boat, took hold of it between its
+flippers, and, forcibly twisting it out of the man's hand, snapped it in
+two. They produced us very little oil, the blubber being thin and poor
+at this season, but were welcomed in a way that had not been
+anticipated; for some quarters of this "marine beef," as Captain Cook
+has called it, being hung up for steaks, the meat was not only eaten,
+but eagerly sought after on this and every other occasion throughout the
+voyage, by all those among us who could overcome the prejudice arising
+chiefly from the dark colour of the flesh. In no other respect that I
+could ever discover, is the meat of the walrus, when fresh-killed, in
+the slightest degree unpalatable. The heart and liver are indeed
+excellent.
+
+After an unobstructed night's run, during which we met with no ice
+except in some loose "streams," the water became so much shoaler as to
+make it necessary to proceed with greater caution. About this time,
+also, a great deal of high land came in sight to the northward and
+eastward, which, on the first inspection of the Esquimaux charts, we
+took to be the large portion of land called _Ke=iyuk-tar-ruoke_,[001]
+between which and the continent the promised strait lay that was to lead
+us to the westward. So far all was satisfactory; but, after sailing a
+few miles farther, it is impossible to describe our disappointment and
+mortification in perceiving an unbroken sheet of ice extending
+completely across the supposed passage from one land to the other. This
+consisted of a floe so level and continuous, that a single glance was
+sufficient to assure us of the disagreeable fact, that it was the ice
+formed in its present situation during the winter, and still firmly
+attached to the land on every side. It was certain, from its continuous
+appearance for some miles that we ran along its edge, that it had
+suffered no disruption this season, which circumstance involved the
+necessity of our awaiting that operation, which nature seemed scarcely
+yet to have commenced in this neighbourhood, before we could hope to
+sail round the northeastern point of the American continent.
+
+At thirty minutes past nine A.M. we observed several tents on the low
+shore immediately abreast of us, and presently afterward five canoes
+made their appearance at the edge of the land-ice intervening between us
+and the beach. We soon found, by the cautious manner in which the canoes
+approached us, that our Winter Island friends had not yet reached this
+neighbourhood. In a few minutes after we had joined them, however, a few
+presents served to dissipate all their apprehensions, if, indeed, people
+could be said to entertain any who thus fearlessly met us half way; and
+we immediately persuaded them to turn back with us to the shore. Being
+under sail in the boat, with a fresh breeze, we took two of the canoes
+in tow, and dragged them along at a great rate, much to the satisfaction
+of the Esquimaux, who were very assiduous in piloting us to the best
+landing-place upon the ice, where we were met by several of their
+companions and conducted to the tents. Before we had reached the shore,
+however, we had obtained one very interesting piece of information,
+namely, that it was Igloolik on which we were now about to land, and
+that we must therefore have made a very near approach to the strait
+which, as we hoped, was to conduct us once more into the Polar Sea.
+
+We found here two divisions of tents, there being eleven where we
+landed, and five more about half a mile to the northward. By the time we
+reached the tents we were surrounded by a crowd of men, women, and
+children, all carrying some trifling article, which they offered in
+barter, a business they seemed to understand as well, and to need much
+more than their countrymen to the southward. We were, of course, not
+backward in promoting a good understanding by means of such presents as
+we had brought with us, but they seemed to have no idea of our giving
+them anything _gratis_, always offering some trifle in exchange, and
+expressing hesitation and surprise when we declined accepting it. This
+was not to be wondered at among people who scarcely know what a free
+gift is among themselves; but they were not long in getting rid of all
+delicacy or hesitation on this score.
+
+The tents, which varied in size according to the number of occupants,
+consisted of several seal and walrus skins, the former dressed without
+the hair, and the latter with the thick outer coat taken off, and the
+rest shaved thin, so as to allow of the transmission of light through
+it. These were put together in a clumsy and irregular patchwork, forming
+a sort of bag of a shape rather oval than round, and supported near the
+middle by a rude tent-pole composed of several deer's horns or the bones
+of other animals lashed together. At the upper end of this is attached
+another short piece of bone at right angles, for the purpose of
+extending the skins a little at the top, which is generally from six to
+seven feet from the ground. The lower part of the tent-pole rests on a
+large stone, to keep it from sinking into the ground, and, being no way
+secured, is frequently knocked down by persons accidentally coming
+against it, and again replaced upon the stone. The lower borders of the
+skins are held down by stones laid on them outside; and, to keep the
+whole fabric in an erect position, a line of thong is extended from the
+top, on the side where the door is, to a larger stone placed at some
+distance. The door consists merely of two flaps, contrived so as to
+overlap one another, and to be secured by a stone laid upon them at the
+bottom. This entrance faces the south or southeast; and as the wind was
+now blowing fresh from that quarter, and thick snow beginning to fall,
+these habitations did not impress us at first sight with a very
+favourable idea of the comfort and accommodation afforded by them. The
+interior of the tents may be described in few words. On one side of the
+end next the door is the usual stone lamp, resting on rough stones, with
+the _ootkooseek_, or cooking pot, suspended over it; and round this are
+huddled together, in great confusion, the rest of the women's utensils,
+together with great lumps of raw seahorse flesh and blubber, which at
+this season they enjoyed in most disgusting abundance. At the inner end
+of the tent, which is also the broadest, and occupying about one third
+of the whole apartment, their skins are laid as a bed, having under them
+some of the _andromeda tetragona_ when the ground is hard, but in this
+case placed on the bare dry shingle. Comfortless as these simple
+habitations appeared to us in a snowstorm, they are, in general, not
+deficient in warmth as summer residences; and, being easily removed from
+place to place, they are certainly well suited to the wants and habits
+of this wandering people. When a larger habitation than usual is
+required, they contrive, by putting two of these together, to form a
+sort of double tent somewhat resembling a marquee, and supported by two
+poles. The difference between these tents and the one I had seen in Lyon
+Inlet the preceding autumn, struck me as remarkable, these having no
+_wall_ of stones around them, as is usual in many that we have before
+met with, nor do I know their reason for adopting this different mode of
+construction.
+
+Even if it were not the natural and happy disposition of these people to
+be pleased, and to place implicit confidence wherever kind treatment is
+experienced, that confidence would soon have been ensured by our
+knowledge of their friends and relations to the southward, and the
+information which we were enabled to give respecting their late and
+intended movements. This, while it excited in them extreme surprise,
+served also at once to remove all distrust or apprehension, so that we
+soon found ourselves on the best terms imaginable. In return for all
+this interesting information, they gave us the names of the different
+portions of land in sight, many of which being recognised in their
+countrymen's charts, we no longer entertained a doubt of our being near
+the entrance of the strait to which all our hopes were directed. We now
+found also that a point of land in sight, a few miles to the southward
+of the tents, was near that marked _Ping-=it-k~a-l~ik_ on Ewerat's
+chart, and that, therefore, the low shore along which we had been
+constantly sailing the preceding night was certainly a part of the
+continent.
+
+By the time we had distributed most of our presents, and told some long
+stories about Winter Island, to all which they listened with eager
+delight and interest, we found the weather becoming so inclement as to
+determine us to make the best of our way on board, and to take a more
+favourable opportunity of renewing our visit to the Esquimaux. After
+pulling out for an hour and a half, Captain Lyon, who had a boat's crew
+composed of officers, and had, unfortunately, broken one of his oars,
+was under the necessity of returning to the shore. My anxiety lest the
+ships should be ventured too near the shore, from a desire to pick up
+the boats, induced me to persevere an hour longer, when the wind having
+increased to a gale, which prevented our hearing any of the guns, I
+reluctantly bore up for our former landing-place. Captain Lyon and his
+party having quartered themselves at the southern tents, we took up our
+lodgings at the others, to which we were welcomed in the kindest and
+most hospitable manner. That we might incommode the Esquimaux as little
+as possible, we divided into parties of two in each tent, though they
+would willingly have accommodated twice that number. Immediately on our
+arrival they offered us dry boots, and it was not long before we were
+entirely "rigged out" in their dresses, which, thoroughly drenched as we
+were by the sea, proved no small comfort to us. With these, and a
+sealskin or two as a blanket, we kept ourselves tolerably warm during a
+most inclement night; and the tents, which but a few hours before we had
+looked upon as the most comfortless habitations imaginable, now afforded
+us a sufficient and most acceptable shelter.
+
+The evening was passed in dealing out our information from the
+southward, and never did any arrival excite more anxious inquiries than
+those we were now obliged to answer. So intimate was the knowledge we
+possessed respecting many of their relationships, that, by the help of a
+memorandum-book in which these had been inserted, I believe we almost at
+times excited a degree of superstitious alarm in their minds. This sort
+of gossip, and incessant chattering and laughing, continued till near
+midnight, when the numerous visitors in our tents began to retire to
+their own and to leave us to our repose. Awaking at four A.M. on the
+17th, I found that the weather had moderated and cleared up, and the
+ships soon after appearing in sight, we called our boat's crew up, and
+sent one of the Esquimaux round to the other tents to inform Captain
+Lyon of our setting out. Several of the natives accompanied us to our
+boat, which they cheerfully helped us to launch, and then went round to
+another part of the beach for their own canoes. A thick fog had come on
+before this time, notwithstanding which, however, we managed to find the
+ships, and got on board by seven o'clock. Five canoes arrived soon
+after, and the wind being now light and variable, we lay-to for an hour
+to repay our kind friends for the hospitable reception they had given
+us. After supplying them abundantly with tin canisters, knives, and
+pieces of iron hoop, we hauled to the northeastward to continue our
+examination of the state of the ice, in hopes of finding that the late
+gale had in this respect done us some service.
+
+Finding that a farther examination of the eastern lands could not at
+present be carried on, without incurring the risk of hampering the ships
+at a time when, for aught that we knew, the ice might be breaking up at
+the entrance of the strait, we stood back to the westward, and, having
+fetched near the middle of Igloolik, were gratified in observing that a
+large "patch" of the fixed ice[002] had broken off and drifted out of
+sight during our absence. At nine A.M. we saw eleven canoes coming off
+from the shore, our distance from the tents being about four miles. We
+now hoisted two of them on board, their owners K=a-k~ee and
+N~u-y=ak-k~a being very well pleased with the expedient, to avoid
+damaging them alongside. Above an hour was occupied in endeavouring to
+gain additional information respecting the land to the westward, and the
+time when we might expect the ice to break up in the strait, after which
+we dismissed them with various useful presents, the atmosphere becoming
+extremely thick with snow, and threatening a repetition of the same
+inclement weather as we had lately experienced.
+
+On the 23d we went on shore to pay another visit to the Esquimaux, who
+came down on the ice in great numbers to receive us, repeatedly stroking
+down the front of their jackets with the palm of the hand as they
+advanced, a custom not before mentioned, as we had some doubt about it
+at Winter Island, and which they soon discontinued here. They also
+frequently called out _tima_, a word which, according to Hearne,
+signifies in the Esquimaux language, "What cheer!" and which Captain
+Franklin heard frequently used on first accosting the natives at the
+mouth of the Coppermine River. It seems to be among these people a
+salutation equivalent to that understood by these travellers, or at
+least some equally civil and friendly one, for nothing could exceed the
+attention which they paid us on landing. Some individual always attached
+himself to each of us immediately on our leaving the boat, pointing out
+the best road, and taking us by the hand or arm to help us over the
+streams of water or fissures in the ice, and attending us wherever we
+went during our stay on shore. The day proving extremely fine and
+pleasant, everything assumed a different appearance from that at our
+former visit, and we passed some hours on shore very agreeably. About
+half a mile inland of the tents, and situated upon the rising ground
+beyond the swamps and ponds before mentioned, we found the ruins of
+several winter habitations, which, upon land so low as Igloolik, formed
+very conspicuous objects at the distance of several miles to seaward.
+These were of the same circular and dome-like form as the snow-huts, but
+built with much more durable materials, the lower part or foundation
+being of stones, and the rest of the various bones of the whale and
+walrus, gradually inclining inward and meeting at the top. The crevices,
+as well as the whole of the outside, were then covered with turf, which,
+with the additional coating of snow in the winter, serves to exclude the
+cold air very effectually. The entrance is towards the south, and
+consists of a passage ten feet long, and not more than two in height and
+breadth, built of flat slabs of stone, having the same external covering
+as that of the huts. The beds are raised by stones two feet from the
+ground, and occupy about one third of the apartment at the inner end;
+and the windows and a part of the roofs had been taken away for the
+convenience of removing their furniture in the spring. It was a natural
+inference, from the nature of these habitations, that these people, or
+at least a portion of them, were constant residents on this spot, which,
+indeed, seemed admirably calculated to afford in luxurious profusion all
+that constitutes Esquimaux felicity. This, however, did not afterward
+prove to be absolutely the case; for though Igloolik (as perhaps the
+name may imply) is certainly one of their principal and favourite
+rendezvous, yet we subsequently found the inland entirely deserted by
+them at the same season.
+
+In every direction around the huts were lying innumerable bones of
+walruses and seals, together with sculls of dogs, bears, and foxes, on
+many of which a part of the putrid flesh still remaining sent forth the
+most offensive effluvia. We were not a little surprised to find also a
+number of human sculls lying about among the rest, within a few yards of
+the huts; and were somewhat inclined to be out of humour on this account
+with our new friends, who not only treated the matter with the utmost
+indifference, but, on observing that we were inclined to add some of
+them to our collections, went eagerly about to look for them, and
+tumbled, perhaps, the craniums of some of their own relations into our
+bag, without delicacy or remorse. In various other parts of the island
+we soon after met with similar relics no better disposed of; but we had
+yet to learn how little pains these people take to place their dead out
+of the reach of hungry bears or anatomical collectors.
+
+The account we gave of our visit to the shore naturally exciting the
+curiosity and interest of those who had not yet landed, and the ice
+remaining unchanged on the 24th, a couple of boats were despatched from
+each ship, with a large party of the officers and men, while the ships
+stood off and on. On the return of the boats in the evening, I found
+from Lieutenant Reid that a new family of the natives had arrived to-day
+from the main land, bringing with them a quantity of fine salmon and
+venison, of which some very acceptable samples were procured for both
+ships. Being desirous of following up so agreeable a kind of barter, I
+went on shore the next morning for that purpose, but could only procure
+a very small quantity of fish from the tent of the new-comer, a
+middle-aged, noisy, but remarkably intelligent and energetic man named
+_T=o=ol~em~ak_. After some conversation, we found from this man
+that, in order to obtain a fresh supply of fish, three days would be
+required; this prevented my putting in execution a plan of going out to
+the place where the fish were caught, which we at first understood to be
+near at hand. We therefore employed all our eloquence in endeavouring to
+procure a supply of this kind by means of the Esquimaux themselves, in
+which we at length so far succeeded, that Toolemak promised, for certain
+valuable considerations of wood and iron, to set out on this errand the
+following day.
+
+Shortly, after I returned on board Captain Lyon made the signal "to
+communicate with me," for the purpose of offering his services to
+accompany our fisherman on his proposed journey, attended by one of the
+Hecla's men; to which, in the present unfavourable state of the ice, I
+gladly consented, as the most likely means of procuring information of
+interest during this our unavoidable detention. Being equipped with a
+small tent, blankets, and four days' provision, Captain Lyon left us at
+ten P.M., when I made sail to re-examine the margin of the ice.
+
+It blew fresh from the eastward during the night of the 28th, with
+continued rain, all which we considered favourable for dissolving and
+dislodging the ice, though very comfortless for Captain Lyon on his
+excursion. The weather at length clearing up in the afternoon, I
+determined on beating to the eastward, to see if any more of the land in
+that direction could be made out than the unfavourable position of the
+ice would permit at our last visit. The Fury then made sail and stood to
+the eastward, encountering the usual strength of tide off the southwest
+point of Tangle Island, and soon after a great quantity of heavy
+drift-ice, apparently not long detached from some land.
+
+I determined to avoid, if possible, the entanglement of the Fury among
+the ice, which now surrounded her on every side, and to stand back to
+Igloolik, to hear what information Captain Lyon's journey might have
+procured for us.
+
+At the distance of one third of a mile from Tangle Island, where we
+immediately gained the open sea beyond, we observed the Hecla standing
+towards us, and rejoined her at a quarter before eleven, when Captain
+Lyon came on board to communicate the result of his late journey, of
+which he furnished me with the following account, accompanied by a
+sketch of the lands he had seen, as far as the extremely unfavourable
+state of the weather would permit.
+
+
+    "Accompanied by George Dunn, I found Toolemak on landing, who
+    welcomed us to his tent, in which for two hours it was scarcely
+    possible to move, in consequence of the crowd who came to gaze at
+    us. A new deerskin was spread for me, and Dunn having found a corner
+    for himself, we all lay down to sleep, not, however, until our host,
+    his wife, their little son, and a dog, had turned in beside me,
+    under cover of a fine warm skin, all naked except the lady, who,
+    with the decorum natural to her sex, kept on a part of her clothes.
+    At ten A.M. we started, and found the sledge on a beach near the
+    southern ice. Four men were to accompany us on this vehicle, and the
+    good-natured fellows volunteered to carry our luggage. A second
+    sledge was under the charge of three boys who had eight dogs, while
+    our team consisted of eleven. The weather was so thick that at times
+    we could not see a quarter of a mile before us, but yet went rapidly
+    forward to the W.N.W., when, after about six hours, we came to a
+    high, bold land, and a great number of islands of reddish granite,
+    wild and barren in the extreme. We here found the ice in a very
+    decayed state, and in many places the holes and fissures were
+    difficult if not dangerous to pass. At the expiration of eight
+    hours, our impediments in this respect had increased to such a
+    degree as to stop our farther progress. Dunn, the old man, and
+    myself therefore walked over a small island, beyond which we saw a
+    sheet of water, which precluded any farther advance otherwise than
+    by boats.
+
+    "In the hope that the morning would prove more favourable for our
+    seeing the land, the only advantage now to be derived from our
+    visit, since the fishing place was not attainable, it was decided to
+    pass the night on one of the rocky islands. The Esquimaux having
+    brought no provisions with them, I distributed our four days'
+    allowance of meat in equal proportions to the whole party, who
+    afterward lay down to sleep on the rocks, having merely a piece of
+    skin to keep the rain from their faces. In this comfortless state
+    they remained very quietly for eight hours. Our little hunting-tent
+    just held Dunn and myself, although not in a very convenient manner;
+    but it answered the purpose of keeping us dry, except from a stream
+    of water that ran under us all night.
+
+    "The morning of the 27th was rather fine for a short time, and we
+    saw above thirty islands, which I named COXE'S GROUP, varying in
+    size from one hundred yards to a mile or more in length. Two deer
+    were observed on the northern land, which was called _Khead-Laghioo_
+    by the Esquimaux, and Toolemak accompanied Dunn in chase of them. On
+    crossing to bring over our game, we found the old Esquimaux had
+    skinned and broken up the deer after his own manner, and my
+    companions being without food, I divided it into shares.
+
+    "Arriving on the ice, a skin was taken from the sledge as a seat,
+    and we all squatted down to a repast which was quite new to me. In
+    ten minutes the natives had picked the deer's bones so clean that
+    even the hungry dogs disdained to gnaw them a second time. Dunn and
+    myself made our breakfast on a choice slice cut from the spine, and
+    found it so good, the windpipe in particular, that at dinner-time we
+    preferred the same food to our share of the preserved meat which we
+    had saved from the preceding night.
+
+    "As we sat I observed the moschetoes to be very numerous, but they
+    were lying in a half torpid state on the ice, and incapable of
+    molesting us. Soon after noon we set forward on our return, and,
+    without seeing any object but the flat and decaying ice, passed from
+    land to land with our former celerity, dashing through large pools
+    of water much oftener than was altogether agreeable to men who had
+    not been dry for above thirty hours, or warm for a still longer
+    period. Our eleven dogs were large, fine-looking animals, and an old
+    one of peculiar sagacity was placed at their head by having a longer
+    trace, so as to lead them over the safest and driest places, for
+    these animals have a great dread of water. The leader was instant in
+    obeying the voice of the driver, who did not beat, but repeatedly
+    talked and called it by name. It was beautiful to observe the
+    sledges racing to the same object, the dogs and men in full cry, and
+    the vehicles splashing through the water with the velocity of rival
+    stage-coaches.
+
+    "We were joyfully welcomed to the dwelling of Ooyarra, whose guest I
+    was now to become, and the place of honour, the deerskin seat, was
+    cleared for my reception. His two wives, _K~ai-m=o=o-khi~ak_
+    and _Aw~a-r=un-n~i_ occupied one end, for it was a double
+    tent; while at the opposite extremity the parents of the senior wife
+    were established. The old mother N=ow-k~it-y~oo assisted the
+    young woman in pulling off our wet clothes and boots, which latter
+    being of native manufacture, she new-soled and mended without any
+    request on our side, considering us as a part of the family. Dunn
+    slept in the little tent to watch our goods, and I had a small
+    portion of Ooyarra's screened off for me by a seal's skin. My host
+    and his wives having retired to another tent, and my visitors taking
+    compassion on me, I went comfortably to sleep; but at midnight was
+    awakened by a feeling of great warmth, and, to my surprise, found
+    myself covered by a large deerskin, under which lay my friend, his
+    two wives, and their favourite puppy, all fast asleep and stark
+    naked. Supposing this was all according to rule, I left them to
+    repose in peace, and resigned myself to sleep.
+
+    "On rising, Dunn and I washed with soap in a pond, which caused
+    great speculations among the by-standers, on some of whom we
+    afterward performed miracles in the cleansing way. A large
+    assemblage being collected to hear me talk of Ney-uning-Eitua, or
+    Winter Island, and to see us eat, the women volunteered to cook for
+    us; and, as we preferred a fire in the open air to their lamps, the
+    good-natured creatures sat an hour in the rain to stew some venison
+    which we had saved from our shares of the deer. The fires in summer,
+    when in the open air, are generally made of bones previously well
+    rubbed with blubber, and the female who attends the cooking chews a
+    large piece, from which, as she extracts the oil, she spirts it on
+    the flame.
+
+    "After noon, as I lay half asleep, a man came, and, taking me by the
+    hand, desired Dunn to follow. He led to a tent, which, from the
+    stillness within, I conjectured was untenanted. Several men stood
+    near the door, and, on entering, I found eighteen women assembled
+    and seated in regular order, with the seniors in front. In the
+    centre, near the tent-pole, stood two men, who, when I was seated on
+    a large stone, walked slowly round, and one began dancing in the
+    usual manner, to the favourite tune of 'Amna aya.' The second
+    person, as I soon found, was the dancer's assistant; and, when the
+    principal had pretty well exhausted himself, he walked gravely up
+    to him, and, taking his head between his hands, performed a ceremony
+    called _K=o=on~ik_, which is rubbing noses, to the great
+    amusement and amid the plaudits of the whole company. After this, as
+    if much refreshed, he resumed his performance, occasionally,
+    however, taking a koonik to enliven himself and the spectators. The
+    rub-_bee_, if I may be excused the expression, was at length brought
+    forward and put in the place of the first dancer, who rushed out of
+    the tent to cool himself. In this manner five or six couples
+    exhibited alternately, obtaining more or less applause, according to
+    the oddity of their grimaces. At length a witty fellow, in
+    consequence of some whispering and tittering among the ladies,
+    advanced and gave me the koonik, which challenge I Was obliged to
+    answer by standing up to dance, and my nose was in its turn most
+    severely rubbed, to the great delight of all present.
+
+    "Having been as patient as could be wished for above an hour, and
+    being quite overpowered by the heat of the crowded tent, I made a
+    hasty retreat, after having distributed needles to all the females,
+    and exacting kooniks from all the prettiest in return. A general
+    outcry was now made for Dunn, a most quiet North countryman, to
+    exhibit also; but he, having seen the liberties which had been taken
+    with my nose, very prudently made his retreat, anticipating what
+    would be his fate if he remained.
+
+    "During a short, interval of fine weather, we hung out our clothes
+    to dry, and the contents of our knapsacks, instruments, knives, and
+    beads were strewed on the ground, while we went inland to shoot a
+    few ducks. We cautioned no one against thieving, and were so much at
+    their mercy that everything might have been taken without a
+    possibility of detection; yet not a single article was found to have
+    been removed from its place at our return. At night I was attended
+    by the same bedfellows as before; the young puppy, however, being
+    now better acquainted, took up his quarters in my blanket-bag, as
+    from thence he could the more easily reach a quantity of
+    walrus-flesh which lay near my head; and I was awakened more than
+    once by finding him gnawing a lump by my side.
+
+    "On the morning of the 29th I was really glad to find that the ships
+    were not yet in sight, as I should be enabled to pass another day
+    among the hospitable natives. While making my rounds I met several
+    others, who were also visiting, and who each invited me to call at
+    his tent in its turn. Wherever I entered, the master rose and
+    resigned his seat next his wife or wives, and stood before me or
+    squatted on a stone near the door. I was then told to 'speak!' or,
+    in fact, to give a history of all I knew of the distant tribe,
+    which, from constant repetition, I could now manage pretty well. In
+    one tent I found a man mending his paddle, which was ingeniously
+    made of various little scraps of wood, ivory, and bone, lashed
+    together. He put it into my hands to repair, taking it for granted
+    that a Kabloona would succeed much better than himself. An hour
+    afterward the poor fellow came and took me by the hand to his tent,
+    where I found a large pot of walrus-flesh evidently cooked for me.
+    His wife licked a piece and offered it, but, on his saying something
+    to her, took out another, and, having pared off the outside, gave
+    me the clean part, which, had it been carrion, I would not have hurt
+    these poor creatures by refusing. The men showed me some curious
+    puzzles with knots on their fingers, and I did what I could in
+    return. The little girls were very expert in a singular but dirty
+    amusement, which consisted in drawing a piece of sinew up their
+    nostrils and producing the end out of their mouths. The elder people
+    were, for the most part, in chase of the tormentors, which swarmed
+    in their head and clothes; and I saw, for the first time, an
+    ingenious contrivance for detaching them from the back, or such
+    parts of the body as the hands could not reach. This was the rib of
+    a seal, having a bunch of the whitest of a deer's hair attached to
+    one end of it, and on this rubbing the places which require it, the
+    little animals stick to it; from their colour they are easily
+    detected, and, of course, consigned to the mouths of the hunters.
+
+    "The weather clearing in the afternoon, one ship was seen in the
+    distance, which diffused a general joy among the people, who ran
+    about screaming and dancing with delight. While lounging along the
+    beach, and waiting the arrival of the ship, I proposed a game at
+    'leap frog,' which was quite new to the natives, and in learning
+    which some terrible falls were made. Even the women with the
+    children at their backs would not be outdone by the men, and they
+    formed a grotesque party of opposition jumpers. Tired with a long
+    exhibition, I retreated to the tent, but was allowed a very short
+    repose, as I was soon informed that the people from the farthest
+    tents were come to see my performance, and, on going out, I found
+    five men stationed at proper distances with their heads down for me
+    to go over them, which I did amid loud cries of _koyenna_ (thanks).
+
+    "As the ship drew near in the evening, I perceived her to be the
+    Hecla, but, not expecting a boat so late, lay down to sleep. I soon
+    found my mistake, for a large party came drumming on the side of the
+    tent, and crying out that a 'little ship' was coming, and, in fact,
+    I found the boat nearly on shore. Ooyarra's senior wife now
+    anxiously begged to tattoo a little figure on my arm, which she had
+    no sooner done than the youngest insisted on making the same mark;
+    and while all around were running about and screaming in the
+    greatest confusion, these two poor creatures sat quietly down to
+    embellish me. When the boat landed, a general rush was made for the
+    privilege of carrying our things down to it. Awarunni, who owned the
+    little dog which slept with me, ran and threw him as a present into
+    the boat; when, after a general koonik, we pushed off, fully
+    sensible of the kind hospitality we had received. Toolemak and
+    Ooyarra came on board in my boat, in order to pass the night and
+    receive presents, and we left the beach under three hearty cheers."
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+
+     A Whale killed.--Other Charts drawn by the Esquimaux.--Account of a
+     Journey to the Narrows of the Strait.--Discovery of the Sea to the
+     Westward.--Total Disruption of the Ice at the Eastern Entrance of
+     the Strait.--Instance of local Attraction on the Compasses.--Sail
+     through the Narrows, and again stopped by fixed Ice.--Account of
+     several Land Journeys and Boat Excursions.--Observations on the
+     Tides.--Continued Obstacles from fixed Ice.
+
+
+
+_Aug._ 1.--The information obtained by Captain Lyon on his late journey
+with the Esquimaux served very strongly to confirm all that had before
+been understood from those people respecting the existence of the
+desired passage to the westward in this neighbourhood, though the
+impossibility of Captain Lyon's proceeding farther in that direction,
+combined with our imperfect knowledge of the language, still left us in
+some doubt as to the exact position of the strait in question. While,
+therefore, Captain Lyon was acquainting me with his late proceedings, we
+shaped a course for Igloolik, in order to continue our look-out upon the
+ice, and made the tents very accurately by the compass, after a run of
+five leagues.
+
+The present state of the ice, which was thin and "rotten,", served no
+less to excite our surprise than to keep alive our hopes and
+expectations. The spaces occupied respectively by ice and holes were
+about equal; and so extensive and dangerous were the latter, that the
+men could with extreme difficulty walk twenty or thirty yards from the
+ship to place the anchors, and that at no small risk of falling through.
+We were astonished, therefore, to find with what tenacity a field of
+ice, whose parts appeared thus loosely joined, still continued to hang
+together, notwithstanding the action of the swell that almost constantly
+set upon its margin.
+
+We had for several days past occasionally seen black whales about the
+ships, and our boats were kept in constant readiness to strike one, for
+the sake of the oil, in which endeavour they at length succeeded this
+morning. The usual signal being exhibited, all the boats were sent to
+their assistance, and in less than an hour and a half had killed and
+secured the fish, which proved a moderate-sized one of above "nine feet
+bone," exactly suiting our purpose. The operation of "flinching" this
+animal, which was thirty-nine feet and a half in length, occupied most
+of the afternoon, each ship taking half the blubber and hauling it on
+the ice, "to make off" or put into casks.
+
+As soon as we had completed the stowage of the blubber, and washed the
+ships and people's clothes, we cast off on the 6th, taking in tow the
+carcass of the whale (technically called the "crang") for our friends at
+Igloolik. The wind dying away when the ships were off the northeast end
+of the island, the boats were despatched to tow the whale on shore,
+while Captain Lyon and myself went ahead to meet some of the canoes that
+were paddling towards us. We soon joined eleven of them, and on our
+informing the Esquimaux of the prize the boats were bringing them, they
+paddled off with great delight. When they arrived at the spot, and had
+civilly asked permission to eat some of it, they dropped their canoes
+astern to the whale's tail, from which they cut off enormous lumps of
+flesh and ravenously devoured it; after which they followed our boats
+in-shore, where the carcass was made fast to a mass of grounded ice for
+their future disposal.
+
+As we made several tacks off the island next to the northward of
+Igloolik, called by the Esquimaux _Neerlo-Nackto_, two canoes came off
+to us, in one of which was Toolemak. He and his companions came on board
+the Fury, when I employed him for a couple of hours in drawing a chart
+of the strait. Toolemak, though a sensible and intelligent man, we soon
+found to be no draughtsman, so that his performance in this way, if
+taken alone, was not a very intelligible delineation of the coast. By
+dint, however, of a great deal of talking on his part, and some exercise
+of patience on ours, we at length obtained a copious verbal illustration
+of his sketch, which confirmed all our former accounts respecting the
+existence of a passage to the westward in this immediate neighbourhood,
+and the large extent of land on the northern side of the strait.
+Toolemak also agreed with our other Esquimaux informants in stating,
+that from the coast of Akkoolee no land is visible to the westward; nor
+was any ever heard of in that direction by the Esquimaux. This fact they
+uniformly assert with a whine of sorrow, meaning thereby to intimate
+that their knowledge and resources are there both at an end.
+
+The disruption of the ice continued to proceed slowly till early on the
+morning of the 14th; the breeze having freshened from the northwest,
+another floe broke away from the fixed ice, allowing us to gain about
+half a mile more to the westward; such was the vexatious slowness with
+which we were permitted to advance towards the object of our most
+anxious wishes!
+
+On the 14th I left the ship with Mr. Richards and four men, and
+furnished with provisions for ten days, intending, if possible, to reach
+the main land at a point where we could overlook the strait. In this we
+succeeded after a journey of four days, arriving on the morning of the
+18th at the extreme northern point of a peninsula, overlooking the
+narrowest part of the desired strait, which lay immediately below us in
+about an east and west direction, being two miles in width, apparently
+very deep, and with a tide or current of at least two knots, setting the
+loose ice through to the eastward. Beyond us, to the west, the shores
+again separated to the distance of several leagues; and for more than
+three points of the compass, in that direction, no land could be seen to
+the utmost limits of a clear horizon, except one island six or seven
+miles distant. Over this we could not entertain a doubt of having
+discovered the Polar Sea; and, loaded as it was with ice, we already
+felt as if we were on the point of forcing our way through it along the
+northern shores of America.
+
+After despatching one of our party to the foot of the point for some of
+the sea-water, which was found extremely salt to the taste, we hailed
+the interesting event of the morning by three hearty cheers and by a
+small extra allowance of grog to our people, to drink a safe and speedy
+passage through the channel just discovered, which I ventured to name,
+by anticipation, THE STRAIT OF THE FURY AND HECLA. Having built a pile
+of stones upon the promontory, which, from its situation with respect to
+the Continent of America, I called CAPE NORTHEAST, we walked back to our
+tent and baggage, these having, for the sake of greater expedition, been
+left two miles behind; and, after resting a few hours, set out at three
+P.M. on our return.
+
+We reached the ships at ten o'clock P.M. on Tuesday the 20th. On almost
+all the shores both of the main land and islands that we visited, some
+traces of the Esquimaux were found; but they were less numerous than in
+any other places on which we had hitherto landed. This circumstance
+rather seemed to intimate, as we afterward found to be the case, that
+the shores of the strait and its immediate neighbourhood are not a
+frequent resort of the natives during the summer months.
+
+We got under way on the 21st, were off Cape Northeast on the 26th, and I
+gave the name of CAPE OSSORY to the eastern point of the northern land
+of the Narrows; but on that day, after clearing two dangerous shoals,
+and again deepening our soundings, we had begun to indulge the most
+flattering hopes of now making such a rapid progress as would in some
+degree compensate for all our delays and disappointments, when, at once
+to crush every expectation of this sort, it was suddenly announced from
+the crow's nest that another barrier of _fixed_ ice stretched completely
+across the strait, a little beyond us, in one continuous and
+impenetrable field, still occupying its winter station. In less than an
+hour we had reached its margin, when, finding this report but too
+correct, and that, therefore, all farther progress was at present as
+impracticable as if no strait existed, we ran the ships under all sail
+for the floe, which proved so "rotten" and decayed that the ships forced
+themselves three or four hundred yards through it before they stopped.
+Keeping all our canvass spread, we then tried to break the thin edges
+about the numerous holes, by dropping weights over the bows, as well as
+by various other equally ineffectual expedients; but the ice was "tough"
+enough to resist every effort of this kind, though its watery state was
+such as to increase, if possible, our annoyance at being stopped by it.
+The passage to the northward of the island was not even so clear as this
+by above two miles of ice, so that in every respect our present route
+was to be preferred to the other; and thus, after a vexatious delay of
+six weeks at the eastern entrance of the strait, and at a time when we
+had every reason to hope that nature, though hitherto tardy in her
+annual disruption of the ice, had at length made an effort to complete
+it, did we find our progress once more opposed by a barrier of the same
+continuous, impenetrable, and hopeless nature as at first!
+
+As soon as the anchors were dropped, my attention was once more turned
+to the main object of the expedition, from which it had for a moment
+been diverted by the necessity of exerting every effort for the
+immediate safety of the ships. This being now provided for, I had
+leisure to consider in what manner, hampered as the ships were by the
+present state of the ice, our means and exertions might, during this
+unavoidable detention, be employed to the greatest advantage, or, at
+least, with the best prospect of ultimate utility.
+
+Whatever doubts might at a distance have been entertained respecting the
+identity, or the contrary, of the place visited by Captain Lyon with
+that subsequently discovered by myself, there could be none on a nearer
+view; as, independently of the observed latitude, Captain Lyon could
+not, on approaching the narrows, recognise a single feature of the land;
+our present channel being evidently a much wider and more extensive one
+than that pointed out by Toolemak, on the journey. It became, therefore,
+a matter of interest, now that this point was settled and our progress
+again stopped by an insuperable obstacle, to ascertain the extent and
+communication of the southern inlet; and, should it prove a second
+strait, to watch the breaking up of the ice about its eastern entrance,
+that no favourable opportunity might be missed of pushing through it to
+the westward. I therefore determined to despatch three separate parties,
+to satisfy all doubts in that quarter, as well as to gain every possible
+information as to the length of the strait, and the extent of the fixed
+ice now more immediately before us.
+
+With this view, I requested Captain Lyon to take with him Mr. Griffiths
+and four men, and proceed overland in a S.b.E. direction, till he should
+determine, by the difference of latitude, which amounted only to sixteen
+miles, whether there was or was not a strait leading to the westward,
+about the parallel of 69° 26', being nearly that in which the place
+called by the Esquimaux _Kh=emig_ had been found by observation to
+lie. In the mean time, Lieutenant Palmer was directed to proceed in a
+boat to Igloolik, or Neerlo-Nackto, as might be necessary, to ascertain
+whether the passage leading towards Kh=emig was yet clear of ice; and,
+should he find any one of the Esquimaux willing to accompany him to the
+ships with his canoe, to bring him on board as a pilot. The third party
+consisted of Mr. Bushnan, with three men, under the command of
+Lieutenant Reid, who was instructed to proceed along the continental
+coast to the westward, to gain as much information as possible
+respecting the termination of our present strait, the time of his return
+to the ships being limited to four days, at the expiration of which the
+other two parties might also be expected to reach us.
+
+On the morning of the 29th, the wind being light from the eastward, but
+the weather much more clear than before, we weighed and stood over to
+the mainland with the intention of putting our travellers on shore, but
+found that coast now so lined with the ice which had lately broken
+adrift that it was not possible for a boat to approach it. Standing off
+to the westward, to see what service the late disruption had done us, we
+found that a considerable floe had separated, exactly in a line between
+the island off which we lay and a second to the westward of it,
+subsequently named in honour of LORD AMHERST. Tacking at the
+newly-formed margin of the fixed ice, we observed, not only that it was
+still firmly attached to the shores, but that it was now almost entirely
+"hummocky," and heavier than any we had seen since making Igloolik; some
+of the hummocks, as we afterward found, measuring from eight to ten feet
+above the surface of the sea.
+
+The different character now assumed by the ice, while it certainly
+damped our hopes of the passage being cleared this season by the gradual
+effects of dissolution, confirmed, however, in a very satisfactory
+manner, the belief of our being in a broad channel communicating with a
+western sea. As the conclusions we immediately drew from this
+circumstance may not be so obvious to others, I shall here briefly
+explain that, from the manner in which the hummocky floes are formed, it
+is next to impossible that any of these of considerable extent can ever
+be produced in a mere inlet having a narrow communication with the sea.
+There is, in fact, no ice to which the denomination of "sea-ice" may be
+more strictly and exclusively applied than this; and we therefore felt
+confident that the immense floes which now opposed our progress must
+have come from the sea on one side or the other; while the current,
+which we had observed to run in an easterly direction in the narrows, of
+this strait, precluded the possibility of such ice having found its way
+in from that quarter. The only remaining conclusion was, that it must
+have been set into the strait from the westward towards the close of a
+summer, and cemented in its present situation by the frost of the
+succeeding winter.
+
+A great deal of snow having fallen in the last two days, scarcely a dark
+patch was now to be seen on any part of the land, so that the prospect
+at daylight on the 30th was as comfortless as can well be imagined for
+the parties who were just about to find their way among the rocks and
+precipices. Soon after four A.M., however, when we had ascertained that
+the drift-ice was no longer lying in their way, they were all
+despatched in their different directions. For each of the land-parties a
+depôt of several days' provision and fuel was, in case of accidents,
+established on the beach; and Lieutenant Palmer took in his boat a
+supply for nine days.
+
+On the 31st the wind blew fresh and cold from the northwest, which
+caused a quantity of ice to separate from the fixed floe in small pieces
+during the day, and drift past the ships. Early in the morning, a
+she-bear and her two cubs were observed floating down on one of these
+masses, and, coming close to the Hecla, were all killed. The female
+proved remarkably small, two or three men being able to lift her into a
+boat.
+
+At half past nine on the morning of the 1st of September, one of our
+parties was descried at the appointed rendezvous on shore, which, on our
+sending a boat to bring them on board, proved to be Captain Lyon and his
+people. From their early arrival we were in hopes that some decisive
+information had at length been obtained; and our disappointment may
+therefore be imagined, in finding that, owing to insuperable obstacles,
+on the road, he had not been able to advance above five or six miles to
+the southward, and that with excessive danger and fatigue, owing to the
+depth of the snow, and the numerous lakes and precipices.
+
+At nine A.M. on the 2d, Lieutenant Reid and his party were descried at
+their landing-place, and a boat being sent for them, arrived on board at
+half past eleven. He reported that the ice seemed to extend from Amherst
+Island as far as they could see to the westward, presenting one unbroken
+surface from the north to the south shore of the strait.
+
+Notwithstanding every exertion on the part of our travellers, their
+labours had not thrown much light on the geography of this part of the
+coast, nor added any information that could be of practical use in
+directing the operations of the ships. The important question respecting
+a second passage leading to the westward still remained as much a matter
+of mere conjecture as at first; while the advanced period of the season,
+and the unpromising appearance of the ice now opposing our progress,
+rendered it more essential than ever that this point should, if
+possible, be decided. Under this impression it occurred to me, that the
+desired object might possibly be accomplished by pursuing the route
+along the head or western shore of Richards's Bay, part of which I had
+already traversed on my former journey, and found it much less laborious
+walking than that experienced by Captain Lyon on the higher and more
+rugged mountains inland. I determined, therefore, to make this attempt,
+taking with me Mr. Richards and most of my former companions.
+
+This night proved the coldest we had experienced during the present
+season, and the thermometer stood at 24° when I left the ships at four
+A.M. on the 3d, having previously directed Captain Lyon to remain as
+near their present station as might be consistent with safety, and
+carefully watch for any alteration that might occur in the western ice.
+
+Being favoured by a strong northwesterly breeze, we reached the narrows
+at half past six A.M., and immediately encountered a race or ripple, so
+heavy and dangerous that it was only by carrying a press of canvass on
+the boat that we succeeded in keeping the seas from constantly breaking
+into her. This rippling appeared to be occasioned by the sudden
+obstruction which the current meets at the western mouth of the narrows,
+aided, in the present instance, by the strong breeze that blew directly
+upon the corner forming the entrance on the south side.
+
+Having landed at Cape Northeast, I made sail for the isthmus at ten
+A.M., where we arrived after an hour's run; and hauling the boat up on
+the rocks, and depositing the greater part of our stores near her, set
+off at one P.M. along the shore of Richards's Bay, being equipped with
+only three days' provision, and as small a weight of clothing as
+possible. The coast, though not bad for travelling, led us so much more
+to the westward than I expected, in consequence of its numerous
+indentations, that, after above five hours' hard walking, we had only
+made good a W.S.W. course, direct distance six miles. We obtained on
+every eminence a distinct view of the ice the whole way down to
+Neerlo-nakto, in which space not a drop of clear water was discernible;
+the whole of Richards's Bay was filled with ice as before.
+
+We moved at six P.M. on the 4th, and soon came to a number of lakes from
+half a mile to two miles in length occurring in chains of three or four
+together, round which we had to walk, at the expense of much time and
+labour. At half past six, on gaining a sight of the sea from the top of
+a hill, we immediately recognised to the eastward the numerous islands
+of red granite described by Captain Lyon; and now perceived, what had
+before been surmised, that the south shore of Richards's Bay formed the
+northern coast of the inlet, up which his journey with the Esquimaux had
+been pursued. Our latitude, by account from noon, being now 69° 28', we
+felt confident that a short walk directly to the south must bring us to
+any strait communicating with that inlet, and we therefore pushed on in
+confident expectation of being near our journey's end. At seven P.M.,
+leaving the men to pitch the tent in a sheltered valley, Mr. Richards
+and myself ascended the hill that rose beyond it, and, on reaching its
+summit, found ourselves overlooking a long and narrow arm of the sea
+communicating with the inlet before seen to the eastward, and appearing
+to extend several miles nearly in an east and west direction, or
+parallel to the table-land before described, from which it is distant
+three or four miles. That the creek we now overlooked was a part of the
+same arm of the sea which Captain Lyon had visited, the latitude, the
+bearings of Igloolik, which was now plainly visible, and the number and
+appearance of the Coxe Islands, which were too remarkable to be
+mistaken, all concurred in assuring us; and it only, therefore, remained
+for us to determine whether it would furnish a passage for the ships.
+Having made all the remarks which the lateness of the evening would
+permit, we descended to the tent at dusk, being directed by a cheerful,
+blazing fire of the _andromeda tetragona_, which, in its present dry
+state, served as excellent fuel for warming our provisions.
+
+Setting forward at five A.M. on the 5th, along some pleasant valleys
+covered with grass and other vegetation, and the resort of numerous
+reindeer, we walked six or seven miles in a direction parallel to that
+of the creek; when, finding the latter considerably narrowed, and the
+numerous low points of its south shore rendering the water too shoal, to
+all appearance, even for the navigation of a sloop of ten tons, I
+determined to waste no more time in the farther examination of so
+insignificant a place. The farther we went to the westward, the higher
+the hills became; and the commanding prospect thus afforded enabled us
+distinctly to perceive with a glass that, though the ice had become
+entirely dissolved in the creek, and for half a mile below it, the whole
+sea to the eastward, even as far as Igloolik, was covered with one
+continuous and unbroken floe.
+
+Having now completely satisfied myself, that, as respected both ice and
+land, there was no navigable passage for ships about this latitude, no
+time was lost in setting out on our return.
+
+At half past eight we arrived on board, where I was happy to find that
+all our parties had returned without accident, except that Lieutenant
+Palmer had been wounded in his hand and temporarily blinded by a gun
+accidentally going off, from which, however, he fortunately suffered no
+eventual injury.
+
+The result of our late endeavours, necessarily cramped as they had been,
+was to confirm, in the most satisfactory manner, the conviction that we
+were now in the only passage leading to the westward that existed in
+this neighbourhood. Notwithstanding, therefore, the present unpromising
+appearance of the ice, I had no alternative left me but patiently to
+await its disruption, and instantly to avail myself of any alteration
+that nature might yet effect in our favour.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+
+     A Journey performed along the South Shore of Cockburn
+     Island.--Confirmation of an Outlet to the Polar Sea.--Partial
+     Disruption of the Old Ice, and formation of New.--Return through
+     the Narrows to the Eastward.--Proceed to examine the Coast to the
+     Northeastward.--Fury's Anchor broken.--Stand over to Igloolik to
+     look for Winter-quarters.--Excursion to the Head of Quilliam
+     Creek.--Ships forced to the Westward by Gales of Wind--A Canal
+     sawed through the Ice, and the Ships secured in their Winter
+     Station.--Continued Visits of the Esquimaux, and Arrival of some of
+     the Winter Island Tribe.--Proposed Plan of Operations in the
+     ensuing Spring.
+
+
+
+A light air springing up from the eastward on the morning of the 8th, we
+took advantage of it to run up the margin of the fixed ice, which was
+now, perhaps, half a mile farther to the westward, in consequence of
+small pieces being occasionally detached from it, than it had been when
+we tacked off it ten days before.
+
+The pools on the floes were now so hardly frozen, that skating and
+sliding were going on upon them the whole day, though but a week before
+it had been dangerous to venture upon them.
+
+This latter circumstance, together with the fineness of the weather, and
+the tempting appearance of the shore of Cockburn Island, which seemed
+better calculated for travelling than any that we had seen, combined to
+induce me to despatch another party to the westward, with the hope of
+increasing, by the only means within our reach, our knowledge of the
+lands and sea in that direction. Lieutenant Reid and Mr. Bushnan were
+once more selected for that service, to be accompanied by eight men, a
+large number being preferred, because by this means only is it
+practicable to accomplish a tolerably long journey, especially on
+account of the additional weight of warm clothing which the present
+advanced state of the season rendered indispensable. Lieutenant Reid was
+furnished with six days' provisions, and directed to land where most
+practicable on the northern shore, and thence to pursue his journey to
+the westward as far as his resources would admit, gaining all possible
+information that might be useful or interesting.
+
+On the 14th, while an easterly breeze continued, the water increased
+very much in breadth to the westward of the fixed floe to which we were
+attached; several lanes opening out, and leaving in some places a
+channel not less than three miles in width. At two P.M., the wind
+suddenly shifting to the westward, closed up every open space in a few
+hours, leaving not a drop of water in sight from the masthead in that
+direction. To this, however, we had no objection; for being now certain
+that the ice was at liberty to move in the western part of the strait,
+we felt confident that, if once our present narrow barrier were also
+detached, the ordinary changes of wind and tide would inevitably afford
+us opportunities of making progress. The westerly wind was accompanied
+by fine snow, which continued during the night, rendering the weather
+extremely thick, and our situation, consequently, very precarious,
+should the ice give way during the hours of darkness.
+
+At four P.M. on the 15th we discovered our travellers upon the ice. A
+fresh party being despatched to meet and to relieve them of their
+knapsacks, Lieutenant Reid arrived safely on board at seven P.M.,
+having, by a quick and most satisfactory journey, ascertained the
+immediate junction of the Strait of the Fury and Hecla with the Polar
+Sea.
+
+The weather continuing very thick, with small snow, and there being now
+every reason to suppose a final disruption of the fixed ice at hand, I
+determined to provide against the danger to which, at night, this
+long-wished-for event would expose the ships, by adopting a plan that
+had often before occurred to me as likely to prove beneficial in an
+unknown and critical navigation such as this. This was nothing more than
+the establishment of a temporary lighthouse on shore during the night,
+which, in case of our getting adrift, would, together with the
+soundings, afford us that security which the sluggish traversing of the
+compasses otherwise rendered extremely doubtful. For this purpose, two
+steady men, provided with a tent and blankets, were landed on the east
+point of Amherst Island at sunset, to keep up some bright lights during
+the eight hours of darkness, and to be sent for at daylight in the
+morning.
+
+On the 17th the wind freshened almost to a gale from the northwest, with
+thicker and more constant snow than before. The thermometer fell to
+16-1/2° at six A.M., rose no higher than 20° in the course of the day,
+and got down to 12° at night, so that the young ice began now to form
+about us in great quantities.
+
+Appearances had now become so much against our making any farther
+progress this season, as to render it a matter of very serious
+consideration whether we ought to risk being shut up during the winter
+in the middle of the strait, where, from whatever cause it might
+proceed, the last year's ice was not yet wholly detached from the
+shores, and where a fresh formation had already commenced, which there
+was too much reason to believe would prove a permanent one. Our
+wintering in the strait involved the certainty of being frozen up for
+eleven months; a sickening prospect under any circumstances, but in the
+present instance, probably, fatal to our best hopes and expectations.
+
+The young ice had now formed so thick about the Fury, that it became
+rather doubtful whether we should get her out without an increase of
+wind to assist in extricating her, or a decrease of cold. At ten A.M.,
+however, we began to attempt it, but by noon had not moved the ship more
+than half her own length. As soon as we had reached the outer point of
+the floe, in a bay of which we had been lying, we had no longer the
+means of applying a force from without, and, if alone, should therefore
+have been helpless, at least for a time. The Hecla, however, being
+fortunately unencumbered, in consequence of having lain in a less
+sheltered place, sent her boats with a hawser to the margin of the young
+ice; and ours being carried to meet it, by men walking upon planks, at
+considerable risk of going through, she at length succeeded in pulling
+us out; and, getting into clear water, or, rather, into less tough ice,
+at three P.M. we shaped a course to the eastward.
+
+In our return to Igloolik we encountered a severe gale, but we luckily
+discovered it at half past ten A.M., though such was the difficulty of
+distinguishing this from Neerlo-nakto, or either from the mainland, on
+account of the snow that covered them, that, had it not been for the
+Esquimaux huts, we should not easily have recognised the place. At noon
+on the 24th we arrived off the point where the tents had first been
+pitched, and were immediately greeted by a number of Esquimaux, who came
+running down to the beach, shouting and jumping with all their might.
+
+As soon as we had anchored I went on shore, accompanied by several of
+the officers, to pay the Esquimaux a visit, a crowd of them meeting us,
+as usual, on the beach, and greeting us with every demonstration of joy.
+They seemed disappointed that we had not reached Akkolee, for they
+always receive with eagerness any intelligence of their distant country
+people. Many of them, and Toolemak among the number, frequently repeated
+the expressions "_Owyak Na-o_!" (no summer), "_Took-too Na-o!_" (no
+reindeer), which we considered at the time as some confirmation of our
+own surmises respecting the badness of the past summer. When we told
+them we were come to winter among them, they expressed very great, and,
+doubtless, very sincere delight, and even a few _koyennas_ (thanks)
+escaped them on the first communication of this piece of intelligence.
+
+We found these people already established in their winter residences,
+which consisted principally of the huts before described, but modified
+in various ways both as to form and materials. The roofs, which were
+wholly wanting in the summer, were now formed by skins stretched tight
+across from side to side. This, however, as we soon afterward found, was
+only a preparation for the final winter covering of snow; and, indeed,
+many of the huts were subsequently lined in the same way within, the
+skins being attached to the sides and roof by slender threads of
+whalebone, disposed in large and regular stitches. Before the passages
+already described, others were now added, from ten to fifteen feet in
+length, and from four to five feet high, neatly constructed of large
+flat slabs of ice, cemented together by snow and water. Some huts also
+were entirely built of this material, of a rude circular or octangular
+form, and roofed with skins like the others. The light and transparent
+effect within these singular habitations gave one the idea of being in a
+house of ground glass, and their newness made them look clean,
+comfortable, and wholesome. Not so the more substantial bone huts,
+which, from their extreme closeness and accumulated filth, emitted an
+almost insupportable stench, to which an abundant supply of raw and
+half-putrid walrus' flesh in no small degree contributed. The passages
+to these are so low as to make it necessary to crawl on the hands and
+knees to enter them; and the floors of the apartments were in some
+places so slippery, that we could with difficulty pass and repass,
+without the risk of continually falling among the filth with which they
+were covered. These were the dirtiest, because the most durable, of any
+Esquimaux habitations we had yet seen; and it may be supposed they did
+not much improve during the winter. Some bitches with young were very
+carefully and conveniently lodged in small square kennels, made of four
+upright slabs of ice covered with a fifth, and having a small hole as a
+door in one of the sides. The canoes were also laid upon two slabs of
+this kind, like tall tombstones standing erect; and a quantity of spare
+slabs lying in different places, gave the ground an appearance somewhat
+resembling that of a statuary's yard. Large stores of walrus' and seals'
+flesh, principally the former, were deposited under heaps of stones all
+about the beach, and, as we afterward found, in various other parts of
+the island, which showed that they had made some provision for the
+winter, though, with their enormous consumption of food, it proved a
+very inadequate one.
+
+Leaving the Fury at seven A.M. on the 26th, and being favoured by a
+fresh easterly breeze, we soon cleared the southwest point of Igloolik;
+and, having passed the little island of _Oogli=aghioo_, immediately
+perceived to the W.N.W. of us a group of islands, so exactly answering
+the description of Coxe's Group, both in character and situation, as to
+leave no doubt of our being exactly in Captain Lyon's former track.
+Being still favoured by the wind and by the total absence of fixed ice,
+we reached the islands at eleven A.M., and, after sailing a mile or two
+among them, came at once in sight of two bluffs, forming the passage
+pointed out by Toolemak, and then supposed to be called _Khemig_. The
+land to the north, called by the Esquimaux _Khiadlaghioo_, was now found
+to be, as we had before conjectured, the southern shore of Richards's
+Bay. The land on our left or to the southward proved an island, five
+miles and a quarter in length, of the same bold and rugged character as
+the rest of this numerous group, and by far the largest of them all. To
+prevent the necessity of reverting to this subject, I may at once add,
+that two or three months after this, on laying before Ewerat our own
+chart of the whole coast, in order to obtain the Esquimaux names, we
+discovered that the island just mentioned was called _Khemig_, by which
+name Ormond Island was _also_ distinguished; the word expressing, in the
+Esquimaux language, anything stopping up the mouth of a place or
+narrowing its entrance, and applied also more familiarly to the cork of
+a bottle, or a plug of any kind. And thus were reconciled all the
+apparent inconsistencies respecting this hitherto mysterious and
+incomprehensible word, which had occasioned us so much perplexity.
+
+At daylight on the 27th we crossed to a small island at the margin of
+the ice; and leaving the boat there in charge of the coxswain and two of
+the crew, Mr. Ross and myself, accompanied by the other two, set out
+across the ice at seven A.M. to gain the main land, with the intention
+of determining the extent of the inlet by walking up its southern bank.
+After an hour's good travelling, we landed at eight A.M., and had
+scarcely done so when we found ourselves at the very entrance, being
+exactly opposite the place from which Mr. Richards and myself had
+obtained the first view of the inlet. The patch of ice on which we had
+been walking, and which was about three miles long, proved the only
+remains of last year's formation; so forcibly had nature struggled to
+get rid of this before the commencement of a fresh winter.
+
+Walking quickly to the westward along this shore, which afforded
+excellent travelling, we soon perceived that our business was at an end,
+the inlet terminating a very short distance beyond where I had first
+traced it, the apparent turn to the northward being only that of a
+shallow bay.
+
+Having thus completed our object, we set out on our return, and reached
+the boat at three P.M., after a walk of twenty miles. The weather
+fortunately remaining extremely mild, no young ice was formed to
+obstruct our way, and we arrived on board at noon the following day,
+after an examination peculiarly satisfactory, inasmuch as it proved the
+non-existence of _any_ water communication with the Polar Sea, however
+small and unfit for the navigation of ships, to the southward of the
+Strait of the Fury and Hecla.
+
+I found from Captain Lyon on my return, that, in consequence of some ice
+coming in near the ships, he had shifted them round the point into the
+berths-where it was my intention to place them during the winter; where
+they now lay in from eleven to fourteen fathoms, at the distance of
+three cables' length from the shore.
+
+It was not till the afternoon of the 30th that the whole was completed,
+and the Fury placed in the best berth for the winter that circumstances
+would permit. An early release in the spring could here be scarcely
+expected, nor, indeed, did the nature of the ice about us, independently
+of situation, allow us to hope for it; but both these unfavourable
+circumstances had been brought about by a contingency which no human
+power or judgment could have obviated, and at which, therefore, it would
+have been unreasonable, as well as useless, to repine. We lay here in
+rather less than five fathoms, on a muddy bottom, at the distance of one
+cable's length from the eastern shore of the bay.
+
+The whole length of the canal we had sawed through was four thousand
+three hundred and forty-three feet; the thickness of the ice, in the
+level and regular parts, being from twelve to fourteen inches, but in
+many places, where a separation had occurred, amounting to several feet.
+I cannot sufficiently do justice to the cheerful alacrity with which the
+men continued this laborious work during thirteen days, the thermometer
+being frequently at _zero_, and once as low as -9° in that interval. It
+was satisfactory, moreover, to find, that in the performance of this,
+not a single addition had been made to the sick-list of either ship,
+except by the accident of one man's falling into the canal, who returned
+to his duty a day or two afterward.
+
+While our people were thus employed, the Esquimaux had continued to make
+daily visits to the ships, driving down on sledges with their wives and
+children, and thronging on board in great numbers, as well to gratify
+their curiosity, of which they do not, in general, possess much, as to
+pick up whatever trifles we could afford to bestow upon them. These
+people were at all times ready to assist in any work that was going on,
+pulling on the ropes, heaving at the windlass, and sawing the ice,
+sometimes for an hour together. They always accompanied their exertions
+by imitating the sailors in their peculiar manner of "singing out" when
+hauling, thus, at least, affording the latter constant amusement, if not
+any very material assistance, during their labour. Among the numerous
+young people at Igloolik, there were some whose activity on this and
+other occasions particularly struck us. Of these I shall, at present,
+only mention two: _N=o=ogloo_, an adopted son of Toolemak, and
+_K=ong~ol~ek_, a brother of "John Bull." These two young men, who
+were from eighteen to twenty years of age, and stood five feet seven
+inches in height, displayed peculiar _tact_ in acquiring our method of
+heaving at the windlass, an exercise at which _K=ong~ol~ek_ became
+expert after an hour or two's practice. The countenances of both were
+handsome and prepossessing, and their limbs well-formed and muscular;
+qualities which, combined with their activity and manliness, rendered
+them (to speak like a naturalist), perhaps, as fine specimens of the
+human race as almost any country can produce.
+
+Some of our Winter Island friends had now arrived also, being the party
+who left us there towards the end of the preceding May, and whom we had
+afterward overtaken on their journey to the northward. They were
+certainly all very glad to see us again, and, throwing off the Esquimaux
+for a time, shook us heartily by the hand, with every demonstration of
+sincere delight. Ewerat, in his quiet, sensible way, which was always
+respectable, gave us a circumstantial account of every event of his
+journey. On his arrival at _Owlitteweek_, near which island we overtook
+him, he had buried the greater part of his baggage under heaps of
+stones, the ice no longer being fit for dragging the sledge upon. Here
+also he was happily eased of a still greater burden, by the death of his
+idiot boy, who thus escaped the miseries to which a longer life must,
+among these people, have inevitably exposed him. As for that noisy
+little fellow, "John Bull" (_Kooillitiuk_), he employed almost the whole
+of his first visit in asking every one, by name, "How d'ye do, Mr. So
+and So?" a question which had obtained him great credit among our people
+at Winter Island. Being a very important little personage, he also took
+great pride in pointing out various contrivances on board the ships, and
+explaining to the other Esquimaux their different uses, to which the
+latter did not fail to listen with all the attention due to so knowing
+an oracle.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+
+     Preparations for the Winter.--Various Meteorological Phenomena to
+     the close of the year 1822.--Sickness among the
+     Esquimaux.--Meteorological Phenomena to the end of March.
+
+
+
+_November_.--The measures now adopted for the security of the ships and
+their stores, for the maintenance of economy, cleanliness, and health,
+and for the prosecution of the various observations and experiments,
+being principally the same as those already detailed in the preceding
+winter's narrative, I shall be readily excused for passing them over in
+silence.
+
+The daily visits of the Esquimaux to the ships throughout the winter
+afforded, both to officers and men, a fund of constant variety and
+never-failing amusement, which no resources of our own could possibly
+have furnished. Our people were, however, too well aware of the
+advantage they derived from the schools not to be desirous of their
+re-establishment, which accordingly took place soon after our arrival at
+Igloolik; and they were glad to continue this as their evening
+occupation during the six succeeding months.
+
+The year closed with the temperature of -42°, the mean of the month of
+December having been 27° 8', which, taken in connexion with that of
+November, led us to expect a severe winter.
+
+About the middle of the month of December several of the Esquimaux had
+moved from the huts at Igloolik, some taking up their quarters on the
+ice at a considerable distance to the northwest, and the rest about a
+mile outside the summer station of the tents. At the close of the year
+from fifty to sixty individuals had thus decamped, their object being,
+like that of other savages on _terra firma_, to increase their means of
+subsistence by covering more ground; their movements were arranged so
+quietly that we seldom heard of their intentions till they were gone. At
+the new stations they lived entirely in huts of snow; and the northerly
+and easterly winds were considered by them most favourable for their
+fishing, as these served to bring in the loose ice, on which they
+principally kill the walruses.
+
+Towards the latter end of January [1823], the accounts from the huts, as
+well from the Esquimaux as from our own people, concurred in stating
+that the number of the sick, as well as the seriousness of their
+complaints, was rapidly increasing there. We had, indeed, scarcely heard
+of the illness of a woman named _Kei-m=o=o-seuk_, who, it seemed,
+had lately miscarried, when an account arrived of her death. She was one
+of the two wives of _Ooyarra_, one of Captain Lyon's fellow-travellers
+in the summer, who buried her in the snow, about two hundred yards from
+the huts, placing slabs of the same perishable substance over the body,
+and cementing them by pouring a little water in the interstices. Such an
+interment was not likely to be a very secure one; and, accordingly, a
+few days after, the hungry dogs removed the snow and devoured the body.
+
+Captain Lyon gave me the following account of the death and burial of
+another poor woman and her child:
+
+
+     "The mother, Poo-too-alook, was about thirty-five years of age, the
+     child about three years--yet not weaned, and a female; there was
+     also another daughter, Shega, about twelve or thirteen years of
+     age, who, as well as her father, was a most attentive nurse. My
+     hopes were but small, as far as concerned the mother; but the child
+     was so patient that I hoped, from its docility, soon to accustom it
+     to soups and nourishing food, as its only complaint was actual
+     starvation. I screened off a portion of my cabin, and arranged some
+     bedding for them, in the same manner as the Esquimaux do their own.
+     Warm broth, dry bedding, and a comfortable cabin, did wonders
+     before evening, and our medical men gave me great hopes. As an
+     introduction to a system of cleanliness, and preparatory to
+     washing the sick, who were in a most filthy state, I scrubbed Shega
+     and her father from head to foot, and dressed them in new clothes.
+     During the night I persuaded both mother and child, who were very
+     restless, and constantly moaning, to take a few spoonfuls of soup.
+     On the morning of the 24th the woman appeared considerably
+     improved, and she both spoke and ate a little. As she was covered
+     with so thick a coating of dirt that it could be taken off in
+     scales, I obtained her assent to wash her face and hands a little
+     before noon. The man and his daughter now came to my table to look
+     at some things I had laid out to amuse them; and, after a few
+     minutes, Shega lifted up the curtain to look at her mother, when
+     she again let it fall, and tremblingly told us she was dead.
+
+     "The husband sighed heavily, the daughter burst into tears, and the
+     poor little infant made the moment more distressing by calling in a
+     plaintive tone on its mother, by whose side it was lying. I
+     determined on burying the woman on shore, and the husband was much
+     pleased at my promising that the body should be drawn on a sledge
+     by men instead of dogs; for, to our horror, Takkeelikkeeta had told
+     me that dogs had eaten part of Keimooseuk, and that, when he left
+     the huts with his wife, one was devouring the body as he passed it.
+
+     "Takkeelikkeeta now prepared to dress the dead body, and, in the
+     first place, stopped his nose with deer's hair and put on his
+     gloves, seeming unwilling that his naked hand should come in
+     contact with the corpse. I observed, in this occupation, his care
+     that every article of dress should be as carefully placed as when
+     his wife was living; and, having drawn the boots on the wrong legs,
+     he pulled them off again and put them properly. This ceremony
+     finished, the deceased was sewed up in a hammock, and, at the
+     husband's urgent request, her face was left uncovered. An officer
+     who was present at the time agreed with me in fancying that the
+     man, from his words and actions, intimated a wish that the living
+     child might be enclosed with its mother. We may have been mistaken,
+     but there is an equal probability that we were right in our
+     conjecture; for, according to Crantz and Egede, the Greenlanders
+     were in the habit of burying their motherless infants, from a
+     persuasion that they must otherwise starve to death, and also from
+     being unable to bear the cries of the little ones while lingering
+     for several days without sustenance; for no woman will give them
+     any share of their milk, which they consider as the exclusive
+     property of their own offspring. My dogs being carefully tied up at
+     the man's request, a party of our people, accompanied by me, drew
+     the body to the shore, where we made a grave, about a foot deep,
+     being unable to get lower on account of the frozen earth. The body
+     was placed on its back, at the husband's request, and he then
+     stepped into the grave and cut all the stitches of the hammock,
+     although without throwing it open, seeming to imply that the dead
+     should be left unconfined. I laid a woman's knife by the side of
+     the body, and we filled up the grave, over which we also piled a
+     quantity of heavy stones, which no animal could remove. When all
+     was done and we returned to the ship, the man lingered a few
+     minutes behind us and repeated two or three sentences, as if
+     addressing himself to his departed wife; he then silently followed.
+     We found Shega quite composed, and attending her little sister,
+     between whose eyebrows she had made a spot with soot, which I
+     learned was because, being unweaned, it must certainly die. During
+     the night my little charge called on its mother without
+     intermission, yet the father slept as soundly until morning as if
+     nothing had happened.
+
+     "All who saw my patient on the morning of the 25th gave me great
+     hopes; she could swallow easily, and was even strong enough to turn
+     or sit upright without assistance, and in the forenoon slept very
+     soundly. At noon, the sister of the deceased, Ootooguak, with her
+     husband and son, came to visit me. She had first gone to the Fury,
+     and was laughing on deck, and, at her own request, was taken below,
+     not caring to hurry herself to come to the house of mourning. Even
+     when she came to the Hecla she was in high spirits, laughing and
+     capering on deck as if nothing had happened; but, on being shown to
+     my cabin, where Shega, having heard of her arrival, was sitting
+     crying in readiness, she began with her niece to howl most wofully.
+     I, however, put a stop to this ceremony, for such it certainly was,
+     under the plea of disturbing the child. The arrival of a pot of
+     smoking walrus-flesh soon brought smiles on all faces but that of
+     Takkeelikkeeta, who refused food and sat sighing deeply; the others
+     ate, chatted, and laughed as if nothing but eating was worth
+     thinking of. Dinner being over, I received thanks for burying the
+     woman in such a way that 'neither wolves, dogs, nor foxes could dig
+     her up and eat her,' for all were full of the story of Keimooseuk,
+     and even begged some of our officers to go to Igloolik and shoot
+     the offending dogs. A young woman named Ablik, sister to Ooyarra,
+     was induced, after much entreaty and a very large present of beads,
+     to offer her breast to the sick child, but the poor little creature
+     pushed it angrily away. Another woman was asked to do the same;
+     but, although her child was half weaned, she flatly refused.
+
+     "The aunt of my little one seeming anxious to remain, and Shega
+     being now alone, I invited her to stop the night. In the evening
+     the child took meat and jelly, and sat up to help itself, but it
+     soon after resumed its melancholy cry for its mother. At night my
+     party had retired to sleep; yet I heard loud sighing occasionally,
+     and, on lifting the curtain, I saw Takkeelikkeeta standing and
+     looking mournfully at his child. I endeavoured to compose him, and
+     he promised to go to bed; but, hearing him again sighing in a few
+     minutes, I went and found the poor infant was dead, and that its
+     father had been some time aware of it. He now told me it had seen
+     its mother the last time it called on her, and that she had
+     beckoned it to Khil-la (Heaven), on which it instantly died. He
+     said it was 'good' that the child was gone; that no children
+     outlived their mothers; and that the black spot, which Shega had
+     frequently renewed, was quite sufficient to ensure the death of the
+     infant.
+
+     "My party made a hearty breakfast on the 26th, and I observed they
+     did not scruple to lay the vessel containing the meat on the dead
+     child, which I had wrapped in a blanket; and this unnatural table
+     excited neither disgust nor any other feeling among them more than
+     a block of wood could have done. We now tied up all the dogs, as
+     Takkeelikkeeta had desired, and took the child about a quarter of a
+     mile astern of the ships, to bury it in the snow; for the father
+     assured me that her mother would cry in her grave if any weight of
+     stones or earth pressed on her infant. She herself, he feared, had
+     already felt pain from the monument of stones which we had laid
+     upon her. The snow in which we dug the child's grave was not above
+     a foot deep, yet we were not allowed to cut into the ice, or even
+     use any slabs of it in constructing the little tomb. The body,
+     wrapped in a blanket, and having the face uncovered, being placed,
+     the father put the slings by which its deceased mother had carried
+     it on the right side, and, in compliance with the Esquimaux custom
+     of burying toys and presents with their dead, I threw in some
+     beads. A few loose slabs of snow were now placed so as to cover,
+     without touching, the body, and with this very slight sepulchre the
+     father was contented, although a fox could have dug through it in
+     half a minute. We, however, added more snow, and cemented all by
+     pouring about twenty buckets of water, which were brought from the
+     ship, on every part of the mound. I remarked that, before our task
+     was completed, the man turned and walked quietly to the ships.
+
+     "During the last two days I obtained some information with respect
+     to mourning ceremonies, or, at all events, such as related to the
+     loss of a mother of a family; three days were to be passed by the
+     survivors without their walking on the ice, performing any kind of
+     work, or even having anything made for them. Washing is out of the
+     question with Esquimaux at most times, but now I was not allowed to
+     perform the necessary ablutions of their hands and faces, however
+     greasy or dirty they might be made by their food; the girl's hair
+     was not to be put into pig-tails, and everything was neglected;
+     Takkeelikkeeta was not to go sealing until the summer. With the
+     exception of an occasional sigh from the man, there were no more
+     signs of grief; our mourners ate, drank, and were merry, and no one
+     would have supposed they ever had wife, mother, or sister. When the
+     three days (and it is singular that such should be the time) were
+     expired, the man was to visit the grave; and, having talked with
+     his wife, all duties were to be considered as over. The 28th was
+     our third day, but a heavy northerly gale and thick drift prevented
+     our visiting the grave. The 29th, although not fine, was more
+     moderate, and I accompanied him at an early hour. Arriving at the
+     grave, he anxiously walked up to it and carefully sought for
+     foot-tracks on the snow; but, finding none, repeated to himself,
+     'No wolves, no dogs, no foxes; thank ye, thank ye.' He now began a
+     conversation, which he directed entirely to his wife. He called her
+     twice by name, and twice told her how the wind was blowing, looking
+     at the same time in the direction from whence the drift was coming.
+     He next broke forth into a low monotonous chant, and, keeping his
+     eyes fixed upon the grave, walked slowly round it in the direction
+     of the sun four or five times, and at each circuit he stopped a few
+     moments at the head. His song was, however, uninterrupted. At the
+     expiration of about eight minutes he stopped, and, suddenly
+     turning round to me, exclaimed, '_Tugw~a_' (that's enough), and
+     began walking back to the ship. In the song he chanted I could
+     frequently distinguish the word _Koyenna_ (thank you), and it was
+     occasionally coupled with the Kabloonas. Two other expressions,
+     both the names of the spirits or familiars of the Annatko,
+     Toolemak, were used a few times; but the whole of the other words
+     were perfectly unintelligible to me.
+
+     "I now sent Shega and her father home, well clothed and in good
+     case. The week they had passed on board was sufficient time to gain
+     them the esteem of every one, for they were the most quiet,
+     inoffensive beings I ever met with; and, to their great credit,
+     they never once begged. The man was remarkable for his
+     extraordinary fondness for treacle, sugar, salt, acids, and
+     spruce-beer, which the others of the tribe could not even smell
+     without disgust; and he walked about to the different messes in
+     hopes of being treated with these delicacies. Shega was a timid,
+     well-behaved girl, and generally remained eating in my cabin, for I
+     am confident of speaking far within bounds when I say she got
+     through eight pounds of solids per diem. As far as gratitude could
+     be shown by Esquimaux, which is saying 'koyenna' on receiving a
+     present, my friends were sensible of the attentions I had shown
+     them."
+
+
+_March_ 5th.--The Esquimaux were about this time rather badly off for
+food, in consequence of the winds having of late been unfavourable for
+their fishery; but this had only occurred two or three times in the
+course of the winter, and never so much as to occasion any great
+distress. It is certain, indeed, that the quantity of meat which they
+procured between the 1st of October and the 1st of April was sufficient
+to furnish about double the population of working people who were
+moderate eaters, and had any idea of providing for a future day; but to
+individuals who can demolish four or five pounds at a sitting, and at
+least ten in the course of a day,[003] and who never bestow a thought on
+to-morrow, at least with a view to provide for it by economy, there is
+scarcely any supply which could secure them from occasional scarcity. It
+is highly probable that the alternate feasting and fasting to which the
+gluttony and improvidence of these people so constantly subject them,
+may have occasioned many of the complaints that proved fatal during the
+winter; and on this account we hardly knew whether to rejoice or not at
+the general success of their fishery. Certain it is, that on a
+particular occasion of great plenty, one or two individuals were seen
+lying in the huts, so distended by the quantity of meat they had eaten
+that they were unable to move, and were suffering considerable pain,
+arising solely from this cause. Indeed, it is difficult to assign any
+other probable reason for the lamentable proportion of deaths that took
+place during our stay at Igloolik, while, during a season of nearly
+equal severity, and of much greater privation as to food, at Winter
+Island, not a single death occurred. Notwithstanding their general
+plenty, there were times in the course of this winter, as well as the
+last, when our bread-dust was of real service to them, and they were
+always particularly desirous of obtaining it for their younger children.
+They distinguished this kind of food by the name of _k=an~ibr~o~ot_,
+and biscuit or soft bread by that of _sh=eg~al~ak_, the literal meaning
+of which terms we never could discover, but supposed them to have some
+reference to their respective qualities.
+
+Our lengthened acquaintance with the Esquimaux and their language, which
+a second winter passed among them afforded, gave us an opportunity of
+occasionally explaining to them in some measure in what direction our
+country lay, and of giving them some idea of its distance, climate,
+population, and productions. It was with extreme difficulty that these
+people had imbibed any correct idea of the superiority of rank possessed
+by some individuals among us; and when at length they came into this
+idea, they naturally measured our respective importance by the riches
+they supposed each to possess. The ships they considered, as a matter
+of course, to belong to Captain Lyon and myself, and on this account
+distinguished them by the names of _Lyon-oomiak_ and _Paree-oomiak_; but
+they believed that the boats and other parts of the furniture were the
+property of various other individuals among us. They were, therefore,
+not a little surprised to be seriously assured that neither the one nor
+the other belonged to any of us, but to a much richer and more powerful
+person, to whom we all paid respect and obedience, and at whose command
+we had come to visit and enrich the _Innuees_. Ewerat, on account of his
+steadiness and intelligence, as well as the interest with which he
+listened to anything relating to _Kabloonas_, was particularly fit to
+receive information of this nature; and a general chart of the Atlantic
+Ocean, and of the lands on each side, immediately conveyed to his mind
+an idea of the distance we had come, and the direction in which our home
+lay. This and similar information was received by Ewerat and his wife
+with the most eager astonishment and interest, not merely displayed in
+the "hei-ya!" which constitutes the usual extent of Esquimaux
+admiration, but evidently enlarging their notion respecting the other
+parts of the world, and creating in them ideas which could never before
+have entered their minds. By way of trying their inclinations, I asked
+them if they would consent to leave their own country, and, taking with
+them their children, go to live in ours, where they would see no more
+_Innuees_, and never eat any more seal or walrus. To all this they
+willingly agreed, and with an earnestness that left no doubt of their
+sincerity; Togolat adding, in an emphatic manner, "_Shagloo ooagoot
+nao_" (we do not tell a falsehood), an expression of peculiar force
+among them. The eagerness with which they assented to this proposal made
+me almost repent my curiosity, and I was glad to get out of the scrape
+by saying, that the great personage of whom I had spoken would not be
+pleased at my taking them home without having first obtained his
+permission. Information of the kind alluded to was subsequently given to
+many of the other Esquimaux, some of whom could at length pronounce the
+name of "King George" so as to be tolerably intelligible.
+
+The weather was now so pleasant, and the temperature in the sun so
+comfortable to the feelings when a shelter could be found from the wind,
+that we set up various games for the people, such as cricket, football,
+and quoits, which some of them played for many hours during the day.
+
+At the close of the month of March, we were glad to find that its mean
+temperature, being -19.75°, when taken in conjunction with those of
+January and February, appeared to constitute a mild winter for this
+latitude. There were, besides, some other circumstances, which served to
+distinguish this winter from any preceding one we had passed in the ice.
+One of the most remarkable of these was the frequent occurrence of hard,
+well-defined clouds, a feature we had hitherto considered as almost
+unknown in the winter sky of the Polar Regions. It is not improbable
+that these may have, in part, owed their origin to a large extent of sea
+keeping open to the southeastward throughout the winter, though they not
+only occurred with the wind from that quarter, but also with the colder
+weather, usually accompanying northwesterly breezes. About the time of
+the sun's reappearance, and for a week or two after it, these clouds
+were not more a subject of admiration to us on account of their novelty,
+than from the glowing richness of the tints with which they were
+adorned. It is, indeed, scarcely possible for nature, in any climate, to
+produce a sky exhibiting greater splendour and richness of colouring
+than we at times experienced in the course of this spring. The edges of
+the clouds near the sun often presented a fiery or burning appearance,
+while the opposite side of the heavens was distinguished by a deep
+purple about the horizon, gradually softening upward into a warm yet
+delicate rose-colour of inconceivable beauty. These phenomena have
+always impressed us the most forcibly about the time of the sun's
+permanent setting and that of his reappearance, especially the latter,
+and have invariably furnished a particular subject of conversation to us
+at those periods; but I do not know whether this is to be attributed so
+much to the colouring of the sky exactly at the times alluded to, as to
+our habit of setting on every enjoyment a value proportioned to its
+scarceness and novelty.
+
+Another peculiarity observed in this winter was the rare occurrence of
+the Aurora Borealis, and the extraordinary poorness of its display
+whenever it did make its appearance. It was almost invariably seen to
+the southward, between an E.S.E. and a W.S.W. bearing, generally low,
+the stationary patches of it having a tendency to form an irregular
+arch, and not unfrequently with coruscations shooting towards the
+zenith. When more diffused it still kept, in general, on the southern
+side of the zenith; but never exhibited any of those rapid and
+complicated movements observed in the course of the preceding winter,
+nor, indeed, any feature that renders it necessary to attempt a
+particular description. The electrometer was frequently tried, by Mr.
+Fisher, at times when the state of the atmosphere appeared the most
+favourable, but always without any sensible effect being produced on the
+gold leaf.
+
+The difference in the temperature of the day and night began to be
+sensible as early as the first week in March, and the daily range of the
+thermometer increased considerably from that time. The increase in the
+average temperature of the atmosphere, however, is extremely slow in
+these regions, long after the sun has attained a considerable meridian
+altitude; but this is in some degree compensated by the inconceivable
+rapidity with which the days seem to lengthen when once the sun has
+reappeared. There is, indeed, no change which continues to excite so
+much surprise as that from almost constant darkness to constant day; and
+this is, of course, the more sudden and striking, in proportion to the
+height of the latitude. Even in this comparatively low parallel, the
+change seemed sufficiently remarkable; for, soon after the middle of
+March, only ten weeks after the sun's reappearance above the horizon, a
+bright twilight appeared at midnight in the northern heavens.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+
+     Various Journeys to the Esquimaux Stations.--Preparations for the
+     Hecla's Return to England.--Remarkable Halos, &c.--Shooting Parties
+     stationed at Arlagnuk.--Journeys to Quilliam Creek.--Arrival of
+     Esquimaux from the Northward.--Account of a Journey to the Westward
+     for the purpose of reaching the Polar Sea.--The Esquimaux report
+     two Fishing-ships having been Wrecked.--A Journey performed to
+     Cockburn Island.--Discovery of Murray Maxwell Inlet.
+
+
+
+About the first and second weeks in April, the Esquimaux were in the
+habit of coming up the inlet, to the southward of the ships, to kill the
+_neitiek,_ or small seal, which brings forth its young at this season,
+and probably retires into sheltered places for that purpose. Besides the
+old seals, which were taken in the manner before explained, the
+Esquimaux also caught a great number of young ones, by fastening a hook
+to the end of a staff, and hooking them up from the sea-hole after the
+mother had been killed. Our large fishhooks were useful to them for this
+purpose, and the beautiful silvery skins of these young animals were
+occasionally brought to the ships as articles of barter: those of the
+foetus of the _neitiek_ are more yellow than the others, and, indeed,
+both in colour and texture, very much resemble raw silk.
+
+The first ducks noticed by the Esquimaux were mentioned to us on the
+16th, and a few days afterward immense flocks appeared, all of the
+king-duck species, about the open water near the margin of the ice; but
+our distance from this was so great, that we never saw any of them, and
+the weather was yet too cold to station a shooting-party in that
+neighbourhood. Dovekies were now also numerous, and a gull or two, of
+the silvery species, had been seen.
+
+On the 20th, after divine service, I took the opportunity of Captain
+Lyon and his people being on board the Fury, to communicate to the
+assembled officers and ships' companies my intentions respecting the
+future movements of the expedition; at the same time requesting Captain
+Lyon to furnish me with a list of any of the Hecla's men that might
+volunteer to remain out, as it would be necessary to fill up, or,
+perhaps, even to increase the complement of the Fury.
+
+Our preparations were therefore immediately commenced, a twelvemonths'
+provision and other stores being received by the Fury, and various
+necessary exchanges made in anchors, cables, and boats; and, in the
+course of a single fortnight, the whole of these were transported from
+ship to ship without any exposure or labour to the men outside their
+respective ships, our invaluable dogs having performed it for us with
+astonishing ease and expedition. It was a curious sight to watch these
+useful animals walking off with a bower-anchor, a boat, or a topmast,
+without any difficulty; and it may give some idea of what they are able
+to perform, to state, that nine dogs of Captain Lyon's dragged sixteen
+hundred and eleven pounds a distance of seventeen hundred and fifty
+yards in nine minutes, and that they worked in a similar way between the
+ships for seven or eight hours a day. The road was, however, very good
+at this time, and the dogs the best that could be procured.
+
+The wind settling to the southward for a few days near the end of April,
+brought an increased, and, to us a comfortable degree of warmth; and it
+was considered an event of some interest, that the snow which fell on
+the 29th dissolved as it lay on our decks, being the first time that it
+had done so this season. We now also ventured to take off some of the
+hatches for an hour or two in the day, and to admit some fresh air, a
+luxury which we had not known for six months. The Esquimaux, about this
+time, began to separate more than before, according to their usual
+custom in the spring; some of them, and especially our Winter Island
+acquaintance, setting off to the little islands called Oolglit, and
+those in our neighbourhood removing to the northeast end of Igloolik, to
+a peninsula called _Keiyuk-tarruoke_, to which, the open water was
+somewhat nearer. These people now became so much incommoded by the
+melting of their snow-huts, that they were obliged to substitute skins
+as the roofs, retaining, however, the sides and part of the passages of
+the original habitations. These demi-tents were miserable enough while
+in this state, some of the snow continually falling in, and the floor
+being constantly wet by its thawing.
+
+Favourable as the first part of the month of May had appeared with
+respect to temperature, its close was by no means equally promising, and
+on the first of June, at two A.M., the thermometer stood at +8°. This
+unusually low temperature, much exceeding in severity anything we had
+experienced at Melville Island at the same season, rendered it
+necessary to defer for a time a journey which it was proposed that
+Captain Lyon should undertake, across the land to the westward at the
+head of Quilliam Creek, and thence, by means of the ice, along the
+shores of the Polar Sea, in the direction towards Akkoolee. The object
+of this journey, like that of most of the others which had been
+performed in various directions, was to acquire all the information
+within our reach of those parts of the continental coast to which the
+ships were denied access; and it was hoped that, at the coming season,
+some judgment might be formed of the probable state of the ice along
+that shore in the summer, by which the future movements of the Fury
+might be influenced. Captain Lyon was to be accompanied by two men, and
+a complete supply of every kind for a month's travelling was to be drawn
+on a sledge by ten excellent dogs, which he had taken great pains to
+procure and train for such occasions. As I was desirous of ascertaining,
+beyond any doubt, the identity of the _Khemig_, to which I had sailed in
+the autumn, with that seen by Captain Lyon on his journey with the
+Esquimaux, I determined to accompany the travellers on my sledge as far
+as the head of Quilliam Creek, and by victualling them thus far on their
+journey, enable them to gain a day or two's resources in advance.
+Another object which I had in view was to endeavour to find a lake
+mentioned by Toolemak; who assured me that, if I could dig holes in the
+ice, which was five feet thick, plenty of large salmon might be caught
+with hooks, an experiment which seemed at least well worth the trying.
+
+On the 7th, the weather being more favourable than before, Captain Lyon
+and myself set out to the westward at half past eleven A.M., and the ice
+proving level, reached Khemig at half past five; when it was
+satisfactory to find that the route followed by Captain Lyon on his
+journey with Toolemak was precisely that which I had supposed, every
+feature of the land, of which the fog had before scarcely allowed him a
+glimpse, being now easily recognised, and every difficulty cleared up.
+Proceeding at eight A.M. on the 8th, we soon met with numerous tracks of
+deer upon the ice, which, together with the seals that lay in great
+numbers near their holes, expedited our journey very considerably, the
+dogs frequently setting off at full gallop on sniffing one of them.
+Landing at the head of Quilliam Creek at half past one, we took up an
+advantageous position for looking about us, in order to determine on the
+direction of Captain Lyon's route over land, which all the Esquimaux
+concurred in representing as a laborious one. We met with several
+reindeer immediately on our landing; and, while in pursuit of them,
+Captain Lyon discovered a lake two or three miles long and a quarter of
+a mile broad, a short distance from the tents, which we concluded to be
+that of which I was in search. As some of our party were suffering from
+snow-blindness, and, what is scarcely less painful, severe inflammation
+of the whole face, occasioned by the heat of the sun, we remained here
+for the rest of this day to make our final arrangements.
+
+At nine A.M. on: the 9th we struck the tents, and Captain Lyon set off
+to the southward, while we drove over to the lake, which is one mile
+N.N.W. of the head of the creek, and, after three or four hours'
+labour, completed a hole through the ice, which was very dark-coloured,
+brittle, and transparent, and, as Toolemak had said, about five feet
+thick. The water, which was eleven fathoms deep, flowed up within a
+couple of inches of the surface, over which lay a covering of snow
+eighteen inches in depth. In confident hope of now obtaining some fish,
+we proceeded exactly according to Toolemak's instructions; but, after
+four-and-twenty hours' trial at all depths, not even a single nibble
+rewarded our labour.
+
+Coasting the south shore, on which I wished to obtain observations and
+angles for the survey, we the next day entered a small bay, where we
+pitched our tent; our whole party being now so snow-blind with
+endeavouring to distinguish the land from the ice (so entirely were both
+covered with snow), that we could literally no longer muster one eye
+among three of us to direct the sledge. I found a handkerchief tied
+close, but not too tightly, round the eyes for a whole night, to be a
+more effectual remedy for this disagreeable complaint than any
+application of eyewater; and my companions being induced to try the same
+experiment, derived equal benefit from it. Reaching Arlagnuk towards
+evening of the 13th, we found that our parties had each thirty or forty
+ducks ready for the ships; and that the Esquimaux had lately altogether
+deserted this station, owing to the scarcity of walruses, and had
+removed to Ooglit, where these animals were said to be abundant at this
+season. Leaving our people on the morning of the 14th, I returned on
+board soon after noon, where I found that nothing worthy of particular
+notice had occurred during my absence.
+
+On the 20th three or four other Esquimaux, strangers to us, arrived at
+Igloolik from the northward, and we found from two young men who visited
+us on the following day, that they came from _Too-n=o=o-nek_, a
+place undoubtedly situated somewhere on the western coast of Baffin's
+Bay, or about some of the inlets communicating with it, as they had
+there seen several _Kabloona_ ships employed in killing whales. It is
+not improbable, from the various accounts of the direction and distance
+of Toonoonek, communicated by the Esquimaux through the usual medium of
+their charts, that the part of the seacoast so named lies at no great
+distance from Pond's Bay, in lat. 72-1/2°, which has lately become a
+common rendezvous of our Davis's Strait fishermen. Of this fact we had,
+in the course of the winter, received intimation from these people from
+time to time, and had even some reason to believe that our visit to the
+Esquimaux of the River Clyde in 1820 was known to them; but what most
+excited our interest at this time was the sledge brought by the new
+comers, the runner being composed of large single pieces of wood, one of
+them painted black over a lead-coloured priming, and the cross-bars
+consisting of heading-pieces of oak-buts, one flat board with a
+hinge-mark upon it the upper end of a skid or small boat's davit, and
+others that had evidently and recently been procured from some ship. On
+one of the heading-pieces we distinguished the letters _Brea_--, showing
+that the cask had, according to the custom of the whalers, contained
+bread on the outward passage. The nature of all these materials led us
+to suppose that it must have been procured from some vessel wrecked or
+damaged on the coast; and this suspicion was on the following day
+confirmed by our obtaining information that, at a place called
+Akk=o=odneak, a single day's journey beyond Toonoonek, two ships
+like ours had been driven on shore by the ice, and that the people had
+gone away in boats equipped for the purpose, leaving one ship on her
+beam ends, and the other upright, in which situation the vessels were
+supposed still to remain.[004]
+
+We observed on this occasion as on our first arrival at Igloolik, that
+the new Esquimaux were obliged to have recourse to the others to
+interpret to them our meaning, which circumstance, as it still appeared
+to me, was to be attributed, as before, to our speaking a kind of broken
+Esquimaux that habit had rendered familiar to our old acquaintance,
+rather than to any essential difference in the true languages of the two
+people.
+
+Toolemak having some time before promised to accompany me to the
+fishing-place, taking with him his wife, together with his sledge, dogs,
+and tent, made his appearance from Ooglit on the 23d, bringing, however,
+only the old lady and abundance of meat. Having lent him a tent and two
+of our dogs, and hired others to complete his establishment, we set out
+together at five A.M. on the 24th, my own party consisting of Mr.
+Crozier and a seaman from each ship. Arriving at Khemig towards noon, we
+found among the islands that the ice was quite covered with water,
+owing, probably, to the radiation of heat from the rocks. The weather
+proved, indeed, intensely hot this day, the thermometer in the shade, at
+the ships, being as high as 51°, and the land in this neighbourhood
+preventing the access of wind from any quarter. The travelling being
+good beyond this, we arrived within four or five miles of the head of
+Quilliam Creek at ten P.M., where we pitched the tents for the night. In
+this day's journey ten dogs had drawn my sledge a distance of forty
+statute miles since the morning, the weight on the sledge being about
+twelve hundred pounds, and half of the road very indifferent. It is the
+custom of the Esquimaux, even when meat is most abundant, to feed these
+invaluable animals only once a day, and that in the evening, which they
+consider to agree with them better than more frequent meals; we always
+observed the same practice with ours, and found that they performed
+their journeys the better for it.
+
+On the morning of the 25th, while passing close to a point of land,
+Toolemak suddenly stopped his sledge, and he and his wife walked to the
+shore, whither I immediately followed them. The old woman, preceding her
+husband, went up to a circle of stones, of which there were two or three
+on the spot, and, kneeling down within it, cried most loudly and
+bitterly for the space of two or three minutes, while Toolemak also shed
+abundant tears, but without any loud lamentation. On inquiring presently
+after, I found that this was the spot on which their tent had been
+pitched in the summer, and that the bed-place on which the old woman
+knelt had been that of their adopted son _Noogloo_, whose premature
+death we had all so much regretted. The grief displayed on this
+occasion seemed to have much sincerity in it, and there was something
+extremely touching in this quiet but unaffected tribute of sorrow on the
+spot, which so forcibly reminded them of the object of their parental
+affection. I have much gratification in adding, in this place, another
+circumstance, which, though trifling in itself, deserves to be noticed
+as doing honour to these people's hearts. They had always shown
+particular attachment to a dog they had sold me, and which bore the same
+name as a young man, a son of their own, whom they had formerly lost. In
+the course of this journey, the old woman would constantly call the dog
+"Eerninga" (son), which the affectionate animal never failed to repay by
+jumping up and licking her face all over, whenever his trace would allow
+him; and at night, after Toolemak had fed his own dogs, he frequently
+brought to our tent an extra piece of meat, expressly for
+_Ann=owtalik_, to whom these poor people seemed to take a mournful
+pleasure in now transferring their affection.
+
+Landing close to the head of the inlet on the south shore, we proceeded
+with difficulty a couple of miles over land till we came to a river, the
+limits of which the warmth of the weather was just rendering
+discernible, and which, our guides informed us was to be our fishing
+place. It was interesting to observe that, in every case of doubt as to
+the situation of a place, the best route, or the most advisable method
+of overcoming any difficulty, Toolemak invariably referred to his wife;
+and a consultation of some minutes was held by these two before they
+would determine on what was to be done, or even return an answer to our
+questions respecting it. Pitching our tents upon the banks of the river,
+we went upon the ice, which was still quite solid except close to the
+shores, and soon made two or three holes for a hook and line, the
+thickness of the ice in the middle being from six to seven feet. The
+Esquimaux fishhook is generally composed of a piece of ivory, having a
+hook of pointed iron, without a barb, let into it. The ivory they
+consider useful in attracting the salmon, but they also bait the hook
+with a piece of blubber well cleared of its oil by chewing, and securely
+tied on with a thread of sinew, so as to cover nearly the whole of the
+hook. A small piece of bone, reindeer's horn, or wood, serves as a rod,
+and with this they keep the bait constantly in motion up and down, the
+bait being from one to three feet below the surface of the ice.
+Previous, however, to commencing the fishery, the old lady, who took the
+principal part in this employment, muttered some words, to me altogether
+incomprehensible, over the hole, to which Toolemak, in a formal manner,
+added something about fish and _Kabloonas_; and the whole of this
+preparatory ceremony seemed intended to propitiate the spirit to whose
+department the salmon particularly belonged. The lady (for it seems she
+is a female) did not, however, appear to lend a very favourable ear to
+our wants or Toolemak's rhetoric; for, after many hours' patient trial
+on this and the following day, only two fish were seen and one caught to
+repay our labour.
+
+On the 27th Toolemak and his wife went over to a small shallow lake, on
+the opposite side of the river, where they caught three or four fish of
+the salmon kind, but none more than one pound in weight. He then came
+back to the tent, and made a small spear according to their own fashion;
+but with this, to his great disappointment, he could not strike a single
+fish. A sort of _fish-gig_, which we made out of four large hooks lashed
+back to back at the end of a light staff, succeeded much better, the
+bait being played in the usual manner to attract the fish, which were
+then hooked up with great ease and certainty by this instrument. In this
+manner we soon caught a dozen of the same kind as before; and the rest
+of our party had in the mean time killed a deer.
+
+Toolemak began now to be extremely impatient to return home, his
+principal anxiety arising, I believe, from a childish desire to know
+what I should give him for his trouble; and when, in writing a note to
+Lieutenant Nias, I enumerated the articles I intended to present to him,
+he expressed more delight than I had ever before seen escape him. Among
+these was one of the rifle-guns supplied as presents, together with a
+sufficient quantity of ammunition to last him one summer, after which
+the gun would probably become useless itself for want of cleaning. It
+was astonishing to see the readiness with which these people learned to
+fire at a mark, and the tact they displayed in everything relating to
+this art. Boys from twelve to sixteen years of age would fire a
+fowling-piece, for the first time, with perfect steadiness; and the men,
+with very little practice, would very soon become superior
+marksmen.[005] As, however, the advantage they could derive from the
+use of firearms must be of very short duration, and the danger to any
+careless individuals very considerable, we did not, on any other
+occasion, consider it prudent to furnish them in this manner.
+
+On the morning of the 28th Toolemak had left us for the ships, carrying
+with him our venison to be left there, and having first explained when
+and where the Esquimaux catch the fish with which he had supplied us the
+preceding summer; for it now appeared that they were not found in great
+abundance, or of that magnitude, in the river, but at the mouth of a
+very small stream about two miles lower down the creek on the same side.
+Their method is, to place in the bed of the stream, which is quite
+narrow, and seldom or never so deep as a man's middle, though running
+with great force, two or three separate piles of stones, which serve the
+double purpose of keeping off the force of the stream from themselves,
+and of narrowing the passage through which the fish have to pass in
+coming up from the sea to feed; thus giving the people an opportunity of
+striking them with their spears, and throwing them on the shore without
+much difficulty.
+
+On the afternoon of the 1st of July we shifted our tents overland, and
+down the creek as far as the salmon stream. In performing this short
+journey over bare ground, I was enabled to form some conception of the
+difficulties likely to be encountered by Captain Lyon and his
+companions; for, even with our light load, the dogs could scarcely move
+at times. One of the strongest of eleven fell down in a fit occasioned
+by over exertion; the poor animal lay on his side, foaming at the mouth
+for a minute or two, but soon recovered sufficiently to be able to walk;
+and, being taken out of the sledge, was quite strong again the next day.
+We had scarcely arrived at the stream, when Toolemak's account was very
+satisfactorily confirmed by our finding on the ice near its mouth part
+of two fine salmon, above two feet in length, that had been thrown up by
+the force of the torrent, and a similar one was seen in the water. Our
+provisions being now out, we prepared for returning to the ships the
+following day; and I determined in a short time to send out Mr. Crozier
+with a larger party, well equipped with everything necessary for
+procuring us both fish and deer. We therefore left our tent, spare
+ammunition, and various other articles that would be required here,
+buried under a heap of stones near the stream, and on the morning of the
+2d set out for the ships. The change which one week had made upon the
+ice it is quite impossible to conceive, the whole surface being now
+checkered with large and deep pools of water, where not a symptom of
+thawing had before appeared. This continued the whole way to the ships,
+which we reached at eight P.M., finding Captain Lyon and his party
+returned, after a laborious but unsuccessful endeavour to penetrate
+overland to the westward. On my arrival at the ships I found several
+new Esquimaux on board, who, to the number of twenty, had lately
+arrived from _Toon=o=onee-r=o=ochiuk_, a place situated to the
+westward and northward of Igloolik, and somewhere upon the opposite
+coast of Cockburn Island. This party confirmed the former account
+respecting the two ships that had been forced on shore; and, indeed, as
+an earnest of its truth, one man named _Adloo_, who was said to have
+actually seen them in this state, was a day or two afterward met by our
+people at Arlagnuk, while travelling to the southward, and having on his
+sledge a great deal of wood of the same kind as that before described.
+
+This information having excited considerable interest, Lieutenant
+Hoppner, who had taken great pains to ascertain the facts correctly,
+volunteered his services to accompany some of the Esquimaux, who were
+said to be going northward very shortly, and to obtain every information
+on this and other subjects which might be within the scope of such a
+journey. On the night of the 4th, having heard that a party of the
+Esquimaux intended setting out the following morning, Lieutenant Hoppner
+and his people went out to their tents to be in readiness to accompany
+them. We were surprised to find the next day, that not only Lieutenant
+Hoppner's intended guide, but the whole of the rest of these people, had
+altogether left the island, and, as it afterward proved, permanently for
+the summer. We were now, therefore, for the first time since our arrival
+here, entirely deserted by the natives, only two or three of whom again
+visited the ships during the remainder of our stay. It appears probable,
+indeed, that these wandering people are in the habit of residing at
+their various stations only at particular intervals of time, perhaps
+with the intention of not scaring the walruses and seals too much by a
+very long residence at one time upon the same spot. What made this
+appear still more likely was the present state of their winter
+habitations at Igloolik, which, though offensive enough at about the
+same time the preceding year, were then wholesome and comfortable in
+comparison. Besides quantities of putrid walrus flesh, blubber, and oil,
+carcasses of dogs, and even of human beings recently deceased, were now
+to be seen exposed in their neighbourhood. What remained of the corpse
+of Keim=o=oseuk was of course wholly uncovered; a second, of a
+child, on which the wolves had feasted, was also lying about; and a
+third, of a newly-born infant, was discovered in the middle of a small
+lake by Mr. Richards, who caused them all to be buried under ground.
+
+Our stock of meat for the dogs being nearly expended, and no seahorses
+having yet been seen near the shore, I sent Mr. Ross with a sledge to
+Tern Island on the 13th, in expectation of being supplied by the
+Esquimaux. Mr. Ross returned on the 14th without success, the whole of
+the natives having left the island after plundering the birds' nests, as
+they had done the preceding year.
+
+Finding that our valuable dogs must be now wholly dependant on our own
+exertions in providing meat, a boat from each ship was carried down to
+the neighbourhood of the open water, and shortly afterward two others,
+to endeavour to kill walruses for them. This was the more desirable from
+the probability of the Fury's passing her next winter where no natives
+were resident, and the consequent necessity of laying in our stock for
+that long and dreary season during the present summer. Our people,
+therefore, pitched their tents near the old Esquimaux habitations; and
+thus were four boats constantly employed, whenever the weather would
+permit, for the three succeeding weeks.
+
+On the 16th Lieutenant Hoppner and his party returned to the ships,
+having only been enabled to travel to the south shore of Cockburn
+Island, on account of their guides not yet proceeding any farther. Two
+of the Esquimaux accompanied our travellers back to Igloolik, and, being
+loaded with various useful presents from the ships, returned home the
+following day.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+
+     Extraordinary Disruption of Ice in Quilliam Creek.--Some Appearance
+     of Scurvy among the Seamen and Marines.--Discovery of Gifford
+     River.--Commence cutting the Ice outside the Ships to release them
+     from their Winter-quarters.--Considerations respecting the Return
+     of the Expedition to England.--Unfavourable State of the Ice at the
+     Eastern Entrance of the Strait.--Proceed to the Southward.--Ships
+     beset and drifted up Lyon Inlet.--Decease of Mr. George
+     Fife.--Final Release from the Ice, and Arrival in England.--Remarks
+     upon the practicability of a Northwest Passage.
+
+
+
+Among the various changes which the warmth of the returning summer was
+now producing around us, none was more remarkable than that noticed by
+Captain Lyon in an excursion to Quilliam Creek, and which, in a note
+received from him by the return of the sledges on the 17th, he thus
+describes: "Between the two points forming the entrance of the creek, we
+saw a high wall of ice extending immediately across from land to land,
+and on arriving at it, found that, by some extraordinary convulsion, the
+floe had burst upward, and that immense masses of ice had been thrown in
+every direction. Several blocks, eight or nine feet in thickness, and
+many yards in diameter, were lying on the level solid floe; yet we were
+for some time at a loss to discover whence they had been ejected, till
+at length we found a hole or pool, which appeared so small as to be
+hardly capable of containing the immense fragments near it; yet from
+this place alone must they have been thrown."
+
+Captain Lyon subsequently added, that "the water, which was found to be
+quite fresh, was running rapidly to seaward in this opening; and it
+seemed probable that the vast accumulation from the streams at the head
+of the creek, although at about ten miles distance, had burst a passage,
+and thus ejected the ice. The force employed for this purpose may be
+conceived, when I mention that, of several masses of ice, one in
+particular was above eight feet thick, full forty yards in
+circumference, and lay more than five hundred yards from the pool. No
+traces could be found of the manner in which these bodies had been
+transported, as not a single small fragment was seen lying about, to
+warrant the supposition that they had fallen with a shock. Neither were
+there any marks observable on the smooth uncracked floe to cause a
+suspicion that they had slidden over it, the general appearance of the
+floe at this place being the same as at all other parts of the inlet,
+and bearing no marks of having had any rush of water over it."
+
+The weather was now, at times, extremely sultry, bringing out swarms of
+moschetoes, that soon became very troublesome, even on board the ships.
+A thermometer suspended in the middle of the observatory, and exposed to
+the sun's rays, was observed by Mr. Fisher to stand at 92° at five P.M.
+on the 18th.
+
+On the 19th Captain Lyon returned from Quilliam Creek, bringing with him
+the whole of our party stationed there, the ice being now so broken up
+in that neighbourhood as to render the fishing dangerous without proper
+boats. On this journey, which it took two days to perform, eleven dogs
+drew a weight of two thousand and fifty pounds, of which six hundred and
+forty were salmon, and ninety-five venison, procured by our people. The
+fish had all been caught in the trawl; and treble the quantity might
+easily have been taken with a seine, had we known how wide the mouth of
+the stream was to become. They varied in length from twenty to twenty
+six inches, and one of the largest, when cleaned, weighed eight pounds
+and a half; but their average weight in this state did not exceed two
+pounds and a quarter. The distance of the fishing-place from the ships,
+the dangerous state of the ice, and the soreness of the dogs' feet from
+travelling on the rough, honey-combed ice, prevented our taking any
+farther advantage of this very acceptable change of diet.
+
+Nothing worthy of notice occurred till the 29th, when a patch of ice, a
+mile broad, separated from the outer margin of our barrier and drifted
+away. The canal formed by laying sand on the ice was now quite through
+in most places, showing that the plan would, in this latitude at least,
+always ensure a ship's escape at an earlier season than by the regular
+course of nature, provided it could be carried the whole way down to the
+open water.
+
+I am now under the disagreeable necessity of entering on a subject which
+I had at one time ventured to hope need scarcely occupy any part of this
+narrative: I mean that of the scurvy, some slight but unequivocal
+symptoms of which disease were this day reported to me, by Mr. Edwards,
+to have appeared among four or five of the Fury's men, rendering it
+necessary, for the first time during the voyage, to have recourse to
+antiscorbutic treatment among the seamen and marines.
+
+It will, perhaps, be considered a curious and singular fact in the
+history of sea-scurvy, that during the whole of the preceding part of
+this voyage, none among us but officers were in the slightest degree
+affected by it, a circumstance directly contrary to former experience.
+To whatever causes this might be attributed, it could not, however, but
+be highly gratifying to be thus assured that the various means employed
+to preserve the health of the seamen and marines had proved even beyond
+expectation efficacious.
+
+That a ship's company began to evince symptoms of scurvy after
+twenty-seven months' entire dependance upon the resources contained
+within their ship (an experiment hitherto unknown, perhaps, in the
+annals of navigation, even for one fourth part of that period), could
+scarcely, indeed, be a subject of wonder, though it was at this
+particular time a matter of very sincere regret. From the health enjoyed
+by our people during two successive winters, unassisted as we had been
+by any supply of _fresh_ antiscorbutic plants or other vegetables, I
+had began to indulge a hope that, with a continued attention to their
+comforts, cleanliness, and exercise, the same degree of vigour might,
+humanly speaking, be ensured at least as long as our present liberal
+resources should last. Present appearances, however, seemed to indicate
+differently; for, though our sick-list had scarcely a name upon it, and
+almost every individual was performing his accustomed duty, yet we had
+at length been impressed with the unpleasant conviction that a strong
+predisposition to disease existed among us, and that no very powerful
+exciting cause was wanting to render it more seriously apparent. Such a
+conviction at the present crisis was peculiarly disagreeable; for I
+could not but lament any circumstance tending to weaken the confidence
+in our strength and resources at a time when more than ordinary exertion
+was about to be required at our hands.
+
+The 1st of August had now arrived; and yet, incredible as it may appear,
+the ships were as securely confined in the ice as in the middle of
+winter, except that a pool of water, about twice their own length in
+diameter, was now opened around them. I determined, therefore,
+notwithstanding the apparent hopelessness of sawing our way through four
+or five miles of ice, to begin that laborious process; not, indeed, with
+the hope of cutting a canal sufficiently large to allow the passage of
+the ships to sea, but with a view to weaken it so much as in some
+measure to assist its disruption whenever any swell should set in upon
+its margin. On this and the following day, therefore, all the gear was
+carried down for that purpose, and a large tent pitched for the ships'
+companies to dine in, the distance being too great to allow them to
+return on board to their meals. On the 3d, however, we were saved a
+great deal of unnecessary labour, by the ice opening out at the crack
+before mentioned, so that our sawing might now be commenced within a
+mile of the Fury. After divine service, therefore, all hands were sent
+from both ships to bring back the tent and tools to the point of
+Oongalooyat, and the parties were recalled from the walrus-fishery,
+except a single boat's crew: these also returned on board a few days
+after, the whole number of seahorses killed being eight, and one large
+seal.
+
+On the 4th our sawing work was commenced, with the usual alacrity on the
+part of the officers and men, and three hundred and fifty yards of ice
+were got out before night, its thickness varying from one to four feet,
+but very irregular on account of the numerous pools and holes. An equal
+length was accomplished on the following day, though not without
+excessive fatigue and constant wet to the men, several of whom fell into
+the water by the ice breaking under them.
+
+On the 5th, the register-thermometer, which had been placed in the
+ground in the winter, was taken up, though, to our astonishment, the
+ground above and about it had become nearly as hard and compactly frozen
+as when we dug the hole to put it down. How this came about we were
+quite at a loss to determine; for the earth had been thrown in quite
+loosely, whereas its present consolidated state implied its having been
+thoroughly thawed and frozen again. It occupied two men ten days to
+extricate it, which, as they approached the thermometer, was done by a
+chisel and mallet, to avoid injury by jarring. This, however, was not
+sufficient to prevent mischief, the instrument being so identified with
+the frozen earth as to render it impossible to strike the ground near it
+without communicating the shock to the tubes, two of which were in
+consequence found to be broken. Thus ended our experiment for
+ascertaining the temperature of the earth during the winter; an
+experiment which it would seem, from this attempt, scarcely practicable
+to make in any satisfactory manner without some apparatus constructed
+expressly for the purpose.
+
+On the 6th the work was continued as before, and about four hundred
+yards of ice were sawn through and floated out, leaving now a broad
+canal, eleven hundred yards in length, leading from the open water
+towards that formed by the gravelled space.
+
+When the lateness of the season to which the ships had now been detained
+in the ice is considered, with reference to the probability of the
+Fury's effecting anything of importance during the short remainder of
+the present summer, it will not be wondered at that, coupling this
+consideration with that of the health of my officers and men, I began to
+entertain doubts whether it would still be prudent to adopt the intended
+measure of remaining out in the Fury as a single ship; whether, in
+short, under existing circumstances, the probable evil did not far
+outweigh the possible good. In order to assist my own judgment on this
+occasion upon one of the most material points, I requested the medical
+officers of the Fury to furnish me with their opinions "as to the
+probable effect that a third winter passed in these regions would
+produce on the health of the officers, seamen, and marines of that ship,
+taking into consideration every circumstance connected with our
+situation." Their answer was decidedly adverse to remaining; and it was
+fortified with such good reasons, connected with the health of the
+officers and crews, as scarcely to leave me at liberty to adopt any
+other course than that of returning to England with both vessels.
+
+Enclosing to Captain Lyon the replies of the medical gentlemen, I now
+also requested his opinion whether, under existing circumstances, he
+still considered it expedient to adopt the measure originally intended,
+with respect to the separation of the two ships. I had scarcely
+despatched a letter to this effect, when, at 10 A.M. on the 8th, the ice
+about the Fury began to move, the pools breaking up, and the gravelled
+canal soon entirely closing. A breeze springing up from the northward at
+this time, all sail was made upon the ship, and the ice gradually
+driving out as it detached itself from the shore, the Fury got into open
+water about one P.M. The Hecla, however, still remained in the middle of
+her winter's floe, which, though it moved a little with the rest at
+first, did not come out of the bay. In the course of the afternoon,
+finding her still stationary, I determined to occupy the time in
+stretching over to the northward, for the purpose of examining the state
+of the fixed ice at the eastern mouth of the strait; and, arriving at
+its margin by ten P.M., found it attached to both shores from the
+northeastern part of Neerlo-naktoo across to Murray Maxwell Inlet. It
+was the general opinion that this ice was in a more solid state than at
+the same time and place the preceding year, but its situation did not, I
+believe, differ half a mile from what it had then been. As the sun went
+down nearly in the direction of the strait, we obtained from the
+masthead a distinct and extensive view in that quarter, and it is
+impossible to conceive a more hopeless prospect than this now presented.
+One vast expanse of level solid ice occupied the whole extent of sea
+visible to the westward, and the eye wearied itself in vain to discover
+a single break upon its surface.
+
+Having finished this examination, which at once destroyed every hope I
+had never ceased to indulge of a passage through the strait, we returned
+towards Igloolik to rejoin the Hecla. It was not, however, till the
+morning of the 9th that we observed her to be moving out of the bay,
+when at length (for the first time, perhaps, that such an event ever
+occurred) she drove to sea in the middle of the floe. Thus at the mercy
+of the ice, she was carried over the shoals off the southeast point of
+Igloolik in six and a half fathoms, but was then fortunately drifted
+into deeper water. The swell on the outside was all that was wanting to
+break up her icy prison, which, separating at seven A.M., finally
+released her from confinement.
+
+Having soon afterward received Captain Lyon's answer to my
+communication, it was necessary for me to come to a final determination
+on the subject therein alluded to. For various reasons, he advised that
+the Fury and Hecla should return to England together, as soon as such
+arrangements respecting the removal of stores and provisions, as I might
+judge proper to make, should be completed.
+
+Under such circumstances, to which may be added the uncertainty of the
+Hecla's liberation from the ice to the southward before the close of the
+season, I no longer considered it prudent or justifiable, upon the
+slender chance of eventual success now before us, to risk the safety of
+the officers and men committed to my charge, and whom it was now my
+first wish to reconduct in good health to their country and their
+friends. Having communicated my intentions to the officers and ships'
+companies, I directed several additions to be made to their ordinary
+allowance of provisions, particularly in the various antiscorbutics,
+which had hitherto been reserved for cases of emergency; and then
+beating up to our winter station, which I named Turton Bay, we anchored
+there in the afternoon in ten fathoms, and immediately commenced our
+preparations for lightening the Fury. Seven months' provisions, a bower
+anchor, and a few other stores, were received by the Hecla, some of her
+water, before filled as ballast, being started to make room for them;
+and such other arrangements made as circumstances would permit for
+improving the stowage of the Fury's hold. The bay was now entirely clear
+of ice in every part; and so changed was its appearance in the course of
+the last four-and-twenty hours, that it was scarcely possible to believe
+it the same place that we had been accustomed daily to look upon for the
+ten preceding months.
+
+The conveyance and stowage of the stores had scarcely been completed,
+when some loose ice drifting into the bay with the tide on the night of
+the 10th, obliged us hastily to get under way and stand out. On the
+following morning I ran across to the main land in the Fury, for the
+purpose of erecting, in compliance with my instructions, a flagstaff
+fifty-six feet in height, having at its top a ball, made of iron hoops
+and canvass, ten feet in diameter, and a cylinder buried near its foot,
+containing a parchment with some account of our visit to this place. In
+the mean time, I requested Captain Lyon to stand over to the point of
+Igloolik, where our walruses had been landed, and to bring off these, as
+well as our boats and tents remaining there. The ice soon after coming
+in upon the point, it was not without risk of the Hecla's being
+dangerously beset that Captain Lyon succeeded in bringing off everything
+but one boat. This was, indeed, no great loss to us, though a great
+acquisition to the Esquimaux; for, being almost worn out, I had intended
+to break her up previously to leaving the ice. Besides this, we
+purposely left our sledges, and a quantity of wood in pieces of a
+convenient size for bows, spears, and paddles, distributing them about
+in several places, that one or two individuals might not make a prize of
+the whole.
+
+The Hecla rejoining us on the morning of the 12th, we stood out to the
+eastward, and finally took our departure from Igloolik. In the course of
+the night the favourable breeze failed us, and on the morning of the
+14th was succeeded by a southerly wind, the ships being close to another
+island called Ooglit, about twelve leagues to the S.S.W. of the others.
+We were here immediately visited by our old acquaintance the Esquimaux,
+several of whom came off in their canoes in the course of the morning,
+as if determined to loose no opportunity of profiting by us. Among these
+was our worthy old friend Nannow, to whom everybody was glad to give
+something; and, indeed, they all received as many presents as their
+canoes could safely carry or tow on shore. Their tents, nine in number
+were pitched on the main land, a little to the northward of Ooglit, at a
+station they call _Ag-wis-se-=o-wik_, of which we had often heard
+them speak at Igloolik. They now also pointed out to us Amitioke, at the
+distance of four or five leagues to the southward and westward, which
+proved to be the same piece of low land that we had taken for it in
+first coming up this coast. The Esquimaux told us that a number of their
+younger men were inland in pursuit of deer, and that the rest had
+abundant supplies of walrus, which animals we saw in considerable
+numbers about this place.
+
+We were now for some days all but beset in this neighbourhood, calms or
+light southerly and easterly breezes constantly prevailing. During this
+time the main body of ice remained, in most parts, close to the shore,
+leaving us only a "hole" of water to work about in, and much nearer to
+the land than on this shoal and shelving coast was altogether safe for
+the ships. Notwithstanding this, however, we had soon occasion to
+observe that they not only kept their ground, but even drew to the
+southward, owing, no doubt, to the current before found to set in that
+direction along the coast.
+
+The ice remained close the whole of the 26th; but we continued, as
+usual, to drift generally to the southward, and the next morning, being
+off Owlitteeweek, were enabled to cast off and make sail, the ice being
+rather more open than before. Being favoured by a commanding northerly
+breeze, we ran a considerable distance to the southward, having,
+however, only just room to sail between the points of the closely packed
+ice and a flat, dangerous shore. Without escaping for a moment, from our
+confined situation, and almost without perceiving any motion of the
+masses of ice among themselves, we had, at noon on the 30th, drifted
+down within a mile of a small island lying near the northeast point of
+Winter Island. On the 31st the tide took us through between these, the
+breadth of the passage being three quarters of a mile, in no less than
+sixteen fathoms water. We then passed within a dangerous reef of rocks,
+lying a full mile from the shore, and having numerous heavy masses of
+grounded ice upon it. After clearing this in a good depth of water, we
+were, by the evening, carried along shore within a mile of Cape Fisher.
+
+Thus had we, in a most singular manner, once more arrived at our old
+winter-quarters, with scarcely a single successful exertion on our parts
+towards effecting that object. The distance from Ooglit to our present
+station was about one hundred and sixty miles along the coast. Of this
+we had never _sailed_ above forty, the rest of the distance having
+been accomplished, while we were immoveably beset, by mere drifting. The
+interval thus employed having been barely eight days, gives an average
+drift to the southward of above fifteen miles per day.
+
+In the afternoon of the 6th I was much pained at being informed by
+telegraph from the Hecla, that Mr. Fife, Greenland master of that ship,
+had just expired, an event which for some days past there had been but
+too much reason to apprehend; the scurvy having within the last three
+weeks continued to increase considerably upon him. It is proper for me,
+however, both in justice to the medical officers under whose skilful and
+humane care he was placed, and to the means with which we were in this
+way so liberally supplied, to state, that during a part of that time Mr.
+Fife had taken so great a dislike to the various antiscorbutics which
+were administered to him, that he could seldom be induced to use any of
+them. The disease, in consequence, reduced him to a state of extreme
+debility, which at length carried him off almost without pain. The Hecla
+being at the time closely beset, and in a situation of great danger
+among the shoals off Winter Island, Captain Lyon caused the remains of
+the deceased to be committed to the sea with all the solemnity which
+circumstances would permit.
+
+In the night of the 6th, the ships, which had before nearly closed each
+other, were again separated to the distance of several miles, though no
+motion was perceptible in the masses of ice about them. On the evening
+of the 11th, however, the wind at length began to freshen from the
+northwest, when the ice immediately commenced driving down the inlet at
+the rate of a mile an hour, carrying the Fury with it, and within half a
+mile of the rocks, the whole way down to Cape Martineau, but keeping
+her in deep water. In the mean time the Hecla had been swept into much
+more dangerous situations, passing along the east and south sides of
+Winter Island; and, after driving nearly up to Five-hawser Bay, being
+carried near some dangerous shoals about Cape Edwards, where Captain
+Lyon expected every other tide that she would take the ground.
+
+On the 15th, when the ships had closed each other within a mile, we
+could see the clear water from the masthead, and the Hecla could now
+have been easily extricated. Such, however, are the sudden changes that
+take place in this precarious navigation, that not long afterward the
+Fury was quite at liberty to sail out of the ice, while the Hecla was
+now, in her turn, so immoveably fast set, and even cemented between
+several very heavy masses, that no power that could be applied was
+sufficient to move her an inch. In this situation she remained all the
+16th, without our being able to render her any assistance; and the frost
+being now rather severe at night, we began to consider it not improbable
+that we might yet be detained for another winter. We were perhaps,
+indeed, indebted for our escape to a strong westerly breeze, which blew
+for several hours on the 17th, when, the ice being sufficiently close to
+allow our men to walk to the assistance of the Hecla, we succeeded,
+after seven hours' hard labour, in forcing her into clear water, when
+all sail was made to the eastward, and our course shaped for the Trinity
+Islands in a perfectly open sea.
+
+We thus finally made our escape from the ice after having been almost
+immoveably beset in it for twenty-four days out of the last twenty-six,
+in the course of which time the ships had been taken over no less than
+one hundred and forty leagues of ground, generally very close to the
+shore, and always unable to do anything towards effecting their escape
+from danger.
+
+We made the Trinity Islands on the 18th, and ran down Hudson's Strait
+with a favourable breeze, reaching the Orkneys on the morning of Oct.
+9th. It can scarcely, perhaps, be imagined by those who have not been
+similarly situated, with what eager interest one or two vessels were
+this day descried by us, being the first trace of civilized man that we
+had seen for the space of seven-and-twenty months. The breeze increasing
+to a fresh gale from the southward in the course of the night, with a
+heavy sea from the same quarter, rendering it impossible for us to make
+any progress in that direction, I determined to put into Lerwick in the
+Shetland Islands, to procure refreshments, and await a change in our
+favour. We accordingly bore up for that harbour early on the morning of
+the 10th, and at thirty minutes past ten A.M. anchored there, where we
+were immediately visited by a great number of the inhabitants, anxious
+to greet us on our return to our native country.
+
+I feel it utterly impossible adequately to express, the kindness and
+attention we received for the three or four days that we were detained
+in Bressay Sound by a continuance of unfavourable winds. On the first
+information of our arrival the bells of Lerwick were set ringing, the
+inhabitants flocked from every part of the country to express their joy
+at our unexpected return, and the town was at night illuminated, as if
+each individual had a brother or a son among us.
+
+On the 13th, a breeze springing up from the northward, we took leave of
+our kind and hospitable friends, deeply sensible of the cordial and
+affectionate reception we had experienced; and, being still favoured by
+the wind, were abreast of Buchaness the following evening. On the 16th,
+being off Whitby, I went on shore there, and, after receiving the
+cordial greetings of a great number of the worthy inhabitants of Whitby,
+who had assembled to meet us on landing, set off for London, and arrived
+at the Admiralty on the morning of the 18th.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THIRD VOYAGE
+
+FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A NORTHWEST PASSAGE.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+Notwithstanding the want of success of the late expedition to the Polar
+Seas, it was resolved to make another attempt to effect a passage by
+sea, between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. The chief alterations in
+the equipment of the present expedition consisted in the placing of
+Sylvester's warming stove in the very bottom of the ship's hold, in
+substituting a small quantity of salt beef for a part of the pork, and
+in furnishing a much larger supply of newly corned beef. Preserved
+carrots and parsnips, salmon, cream, pickles of onions, beet-root,
+cabbage, and, to make the most of our stowage, _split_ peas, instead
+of whole ones, were supplied. A small quantity of beef pemmican, made by
+pounding the meat with a certain portion of fat, as described by Captain
+Franklin, was also furnished.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+
+     Passage to the Whale-fish Islands, and Removal of Stores from the
+     Transport.--Enter the Ice in Baffin's Bay.--Difficulties of
+     Penetrating to the Westward.--Quit the Ice in Baffin's
+     Bay.--Remarks on the Obstructions encountered by the Ships, and on
+     the Severity of the Season.
+
+
+
+The equipment of the Hecla and Fury, and the loading of the William
+Harris transport, being completed, we began to move down the river from
+Deptford on the 8th of May, 1824, and on the 10th, by the assistance of
+the steamboat, the three ships had reached Northfleet, where they
+received their powder and their ordnance stores.
+
+Early on the morning of the 3d of July, the whole of our stores being
+removed, and Lieutenant Pritchard having received his orders, together
+with our despatches and letters for England, the William Harris weighed
+with a light wind from the northward, and was towed out to sea by our
+boats.
+
+Light northerly winds, together with the dull sailing of our now
+deeply-laden ships, prevented our making much progress for several days,
+and kept us in the neighbourhood of numerous icebergs, which it is
+dangerous to approach when there is any swell. We counted from the deck,
+at one time, no less than one hundred and three of these immense bodies,
+some of them from one to two hundred feet in height above the sea; and
+it was necessary, in one or two instances, to tow the ships clear of
+them with the boats.
+
+From this time, indeed, the obstructions from the quantity, magnitude,
+and closeness of the ice were such as to keep our people almost
+constantly employed in heaving, warping, or sawing through it; and yet
+with so little success, that, at the close of the month of July, we had
+only penetrated seventy miles to the westward, or the longitude of about
+62° 10'.
+
+_Sept_. 9th.--I shall, doubtless, be readily excused for not having
+entered in this journal a detailed narrative of the obstacles we met
+with, and of the unwearied exertions of the officers and men to overcome
+them, during the tedious eight weeks employed in crossing this barrier.
+
+The constant besetment of the ships, and our daily observations for
+latitude and longitude, afforded a favourable opportunity for
+ascertaining precisely the set of any currents by which the whole body
+of ice might be actuated. By attending very carefully to all the
+circumstances, it was evident that a daily set to the southward obtained
+when the wind was northerly, differing in amount from two or three, to
+eight or ten miles per day, according to the strength of the breeze; but
+a northerly current was equally apparent, and fully to the same amount,
+whenever the wind blew from the southward. A circumstance more
+remarkable than these, however, forced itself strongly upon my notice at
+this time, which was, that a _westerly_ set was very frequently
+apparent, even against a fresh breeze blowing from that quarter. I
+mention the circumstance in this place, because I may hereafter have to
+offer a remark or two on this fact, in connexion with some others of a
+similar nature noticed elsewhere.
+
+With respect to the dimensions of the ice through which we had now
+scrambled our way, principally by warping and towing, a distance of
+between three and four hundred miles, I remarked that it for the most
+part increased, as well in the thickness as the extent of the floes, as
+we advanced westward about the parallel of 71°. During our subsequent
+progress to the north, we also met with some of enormous dimensions,
+several of the floes, to which we applied our hawsers and the power of
+the improved capstan, being at their margin more than twenty feet above
+the level of the sea; and over some of these we could not see from the
+masthead. Upon the whole, however, the magnitude of the ice became
+somewhat less towards the northwest, and within thirty miles of that
+margin the masses were comparatively small, and their thickness much
+diminished. Bergs were in sight during the whole passage, but they were
+more numerous towards the middle of the "pack," and rather the most so
+to the southward.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+
+     Enter Sir James Lancaster's Sound.--Land at Cape Warrender.--Meet
+     with young Ice.--Ships beset and carried near the Shore.--Driven
+     back to Navy-board Inlet.--Run to the Westward, and enter Prince
+     Regent's Inlet.--Arrival at Port Bowen.
+
+
+
+All our past obstacles were in a moment forgotten when we once more saw
+an open sea before us; but it must be confessed that it was not so easy
+to forget that the middle of September was already near at hand,
+without having brought us even to the entrance of Sir James Lancaster's
+Sound. That not a moment might be lost, however, in pushing to the
+westward, a press of canvass was crowded, and, being happily favoured
+with an easterly breeze, on the morning of Sept. 10th we caught a
+glimpse of the high bold land on the north side of the magnificent inlet
+up which our course was once more to be directed. From the time of our
+leaving the main body of ice, we met with none of any kind, and the
+entrance to the Sound was, as usual, entirely free from it, except here
+and there a berg, floating about in that solitary grandeur, of which
+these enormous masses, when occurring in the midst of an extensive sea,
+are calculated to convey so sublime an idea.
+
+On the morning of the 12th we were once more favoured with a breeze from
+the eastward, but so light and unsteady that our progress was
+vexatiously slow; and on the 13th, when within seven leagues of Cape
+York, we had the mortification to perceive the sea ahead of us covered
+with young ice, the thermometer having, for two days past, ranged only
+from 18° to 20°.
+
+The next breeze sprung up from the westward, drawing also from the
+southward, at times, out of Prince Regent's Inlet, and for three days we
+were struggling with the young ice to little or no purpose, now and then
+gaining half a mile of ground to windward in a little "hole" of open
+water, then losing as much by the necessity of bearing up or wearing
+(for the ice was too strong to allow us to tack), sallying from morning
+to night with all hands, and with the watch at night, two boats
+constantly under the bows; and, after all, rather losing ground than
+otherwise, while the young ice was every hour increasing in thickness.
+
+Towards sunset on the 17th we became more and more hampered, and were
+eventually beset during the night. The sea was covered with ice between
+us and the shore, all of this year's formation, but now of considerable
+thickness and formidable appearance. The wind continuing strong, the
+whole body was constantly pressed in upon the land, bearing the ships
+along with it, and doubling one sheet over another, sometimes to a
+hundred thicknesses. We quickly shoaled the water from seventy to forty
+fathoms, the latter depth occurring about a mile from the beach; and
+after this we drifted but little, the ice being blocked up between the
+point and a high perpendicular berg lying aground off it.
+
+Under such circumstances, it evidently became expedient to endeavour, by
+sawing, to get the ships as close in-shore as possible, so as to secure
+them either to grounded ice, or by anchoring within the shelter of a bay
+at no great distance inside of us; for it now seemed not unlikely that
+winter was about to put a premature stop to all farther operations at
+sea for this season. At all events, it was necessary to consult the
+immediate safety of the ships, and to keep them from being drifted back
+to the eastward. I therefore gave orders for endeavouring to get the
+ships in towards the bay, by cutting through what level floes still
+remained. So strong had been the pressure while the ice was forcing in
+upon us, that on the 20th, after liberating the Hecla on one side, she
+was as firmly cemented to it on the other, as after a winter's
+formation; and we could only clear her by heavy and repeated "sallying."
+After cutting in two or three hundred yards, while the people were at
+dinner on the 21st, our canal closed by the external pressure coming
+upon the parts which we had weakened, and in a few minutes the whole was
+once more in motion, or, as the seamen not inaptly expressed it,
+"alive," mass doubling under mass, and raising those which were
+uppermost to a considerable height. The ice thus pressed together was
+now about ten feet in thickness in some places, and on an average not
+less than four or five, so that, while thus forced in upon a ship,
+although soft in itself, it caused her to tremble exceedingly; a
+sensation, indeed, commonly experienced in forcing through young ice of
+considerable thickness. We were now once more obliged to be quiet
+spectators of what was going on around us, having, with extreme
+difficulty, succeeded in saving most of our tools that were lying on the
+ice when the squeezing suddenly began.
+
+A sudden motion of the ice, on the morning of the 22d, occasioned by a
+change of the wind to the S.E., threatened to carry us directly off the
+land. It was now, more than ever, desirable to hold on, as this breeze
+was likely to clear the shore, and, at the same time, to give us a run
+to the westward. Hawsers were therefore run out to the land-ice,
+composed of some heavy masses, almost on the beach. With the Hecla this
+succeeded, but the Fury being much farther from the shore, soon began to
+move out with the whole body of ice, which, carrying her close to the
+large berg off the point, swept her round the latter, where, after great
+exertion, Captain Hoppner succeeded in getting clear, and then made sail
+to beat back to us. In the mean time the strain put upon the Hecla's
+hawsers being too great for them, they snapped one after another, and a
+bower-anchor was let go as a last resource. It was one of Hawkins's,
+with the double fluke, and immediately brought up, not merely the ship,
+but a large floe of young ice which had just broken our stream-cable.
+All hands were sent upon the floe to cut it up ahead, and the whole
+operation was a novel, and, at times, a fearful one; for the ice, being
+weakened by the cutting, would suddenly gather fresh way astern,
+carrying men and tools with it, while the chain cable continued to
+plough through it in a manner which gave one the idea of something
+alive, and continually renewing its attacks. The anchor held
+surprisingly; and after this tremendous strain had been put upon it for
+above an hour, we had fairly cut the floe in two, and the ship was
+riding in clear water about half a mile from the shore.
+
+I was in hopes we should make some progress, for a large channel of
+clear water was left open in-shore; a breeze blew off the land, and the
+temperature of the atmosphere had again risen considerably. We had not
+sailed five miles, however, when a westerly wind took us aback, and a
+most dangerous swell set directly upon the shore, obliging me
+immediately to stand off the land; and the Fury being still to the
+eastward of the point, I ran round it in order to rejoin her before
+sunset.
+
+After midnight on the 27th the wind began to moderate, and, by degrees,
+also drew more to the southward than before. At daylight, therefore, we
+found ourselves seven or eight miles from the land; but no ice was in
+sight, except the "sludge," of honey-like consistence, with which almost
+the whole sea was covered. A strong blink, extending along the eastern
+horizon, pointed out the position of the main body of ice, which was
+farther distant from the eastern shore of the inlet than I ever saw it.
+Being assisted by a fine working breeze, which, at the same time,
+prevented the formation of any more ice to obstruct us, we made
+considerable progress along the land, and at noon were nearly abreast of
+Jackson Inlet, which we now saw to be considerably larger than our
+distant view of it on the former voyage had led us to suppose. A few
+more tacks brought us to the entrance of Port Bowen, which, for two or
+three days past, I had determined to make our wintering-place, if, as
+there was but little reason to expect, we should be so fortunate as to
+push the ships thus far. Beating up, therefore, to Port Bowen, we found
+it filled with "old" and "hummocky" ice, attached to the shores on both
+sides, as low down as about three-quarters of a mile below Stony Island.
+Here we made fast in sixty-two fathoms water, running our hawsers far in
+upon the ice, in case of its breaking off at the margin.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+
+     Winter Arrangements.--Improvements in Warming and Ventilating the
+     Ships.--Masquerades adopted as an Amusement to the
+     Men.--Establishment of Schools.--Astronomical
+     Observations.--Meteorological Phenomena.
+
+
+
+_Oct_.--Our present winter arrangements so closely resembled, in
+general, those before adopted, that a fresh description of them would
+prove little more than a repetition of that already contained in the
+narratives of our former voyages.
+
+To those who read, as well as to those who describe, the account of a
+winter passed in these regions can no longer be expected to afford the
+interest of novelty it once possessed; more especially in a station
+already delineated with tolerable geographical precision on our maps,
+and thus, as it were, brought near to our firesides at home.
+Independently, indeed, of this circumstance, it is hard to conceive any
+one thing more like another than two winters passed in the higher
+latitudes of the Polar Regions, except when variety happens to be
+afforded by intercourse with some other branch of "the whole family of
+man." Winter after winter, nature here assumes an aspect so much alike,
+that cursory observation can scarcely detect a single feature of
+variety. The winter of more temperate climates, and even in some of no
+slight severity, is occasionally diversified by a thaw, which at once
+gives variety and comparative cheerfulness to the prospect. But here,
+when once the earth is covered, all is dreary, monotonous whiteness; not
+merely for days or weeks, but for more than half a year together.
+Whichever way the eye is turned, it meets a picture calculated to
+impress upon the mind an idea of inanimate stillness, of that motionless
+torpor with which our feelings have nothing congenial; of anything, in
+short, but life. In the very silence there is a deadness with which a
+human spectator appears _out of keeping_. The presence of man seems an
+intrusion on the dreary solitude of this wintry desert, which even its
+native animals have for a while forsaken.
+
+I am persuaded, therefore, that I shall be excused in sparing the
+dulness of another winter's diary, and confining myself exclusively to
+those facts which appear to possess any scientific interest, to the few
+incidents which _did_ diversify our confinement, and to such remarks as
+may contribute to the health and comfort of any future sojourners in
+these dreary regions.
+
+It may well be supposed that, in this climate, the principal desideratum
+which art is called upon to furnish for the promotion of health, is
+warmth, as well in the external air as in the inhabited apartments.
+Exposure to a cold atmosphere, _when the body is well clothed_, produces
+no bad effect whatever beyond a frostbitten cheek, nose, or finger. As
+for any injury to healthy lungs from the breathing of cold air, or from
+sudden changes from this into a warm atmosphere, or _vice versa_, it may
+with much confidence be asserted that, with due attention to external
+clothing, there is nothing in this respect to be apprehended. This
+inference, at least, would appear legitimate, from the fact that our
+crews, consisting of one hundred and twenty persons, have for four
+winters been constantly undergoing, for months together, a change of
+from eighty to a hundred degrees of temperature, in the space of time
+required for opening two doors (perhaps less than half a minute),
+without incurring any pulmonary complaints at all.
+
+In speaking of the external clothing sufficient for health in this
+climate, it must be confessed that, in severe exposure, quite a _load_
+of woollen clothes, even of the best quality, is insufficient to retain
+a comfortable degree of warmth; a strong breeze carrying it off so
+rapidly, that the sensation is that of the cold piercing through the
+body. A jacket made very long, like those called by seamen
+"pea-jackets," and lined with fur throughout, would be more effectual
+than twice the weight of woollen clothes, and is, indeed, almost
+weather-proof. For the prevention of lumbago, to which our seamen are
+especially liable, from their well-known habit of leaving their loins
+imperfectly clothed, every man should be strictly obliged to wear, under
+his outer clothes, a canvass belt a foot broad, lined with flannel, and
+having straps to go over the shoulder.[006]
+
+It is certain, however, that no precautions in clothing are sufficient
+to maintain health during a Polar winter, without a due degree of warmth
+in the apartments we inhabit. Most persons are apt to associate with the
+idea of warmth, something like the comfort derived from a good fire on a
+winter's evening at home; but in these regions the case is
+inconceivably different: here it is not simple comfort, but health, and,
+therefore, ultimately life, that depends upon it. The want of a constant
+supply of warmth is here immediately followed by a condensation of all
+the moisture, whether from the breath, victuals, or other sources, into
+abundant drops of water, very rapidly forming on all the coldest parts
+of the deck. A still lower temperature modifies, and perhaps improves,
+the annoyance by converting it into ice, which again an occasional
+increase of warmth dissolves into water. Nor is this the amount of the
+evil, though it is the only visible part of it; for not only is a moist
+atmosphere thus incessantly kept up, but it is rendered stagnant also by
+the want of that ventilation which warmth alone can furnish. With an
+apartment in this state, the men's clothes and bedding are continually
+in a moist and unwholesome condition, generating a deleterious air,
+which there is no circulation to carry off; and, whenever these
+circumstances combine for any length of time together, so surely may the
+scurvy, to say nothing of other diseases, be confidently expected to
+exhibit itself.
+
+Every attention was, as usual, paid to the occupation and diversion of
+the men's minds, as well as to the regularity of their bodily exercise.
+Our former amusements being almost worn threadbare, it required some
+ingenuity to devise any plan that should possess the charm of novelty to
+recommend it. This purpose was completely answered by a proposal of
+Captain Hoppner, to attempt a _masquerade_, in which officers and men
+should alike take a part, but which, without imposing any restraint
+whatever, would leave every one to his own choice whether to join in
+this diversion or not. It is impossible that any idea could have proved
+more happy, or more exactly suited to our situation. Admirably dressed
+characters of various descriptions readily took their parts, and many of
+these were supported with a degree of spirit and genuine humour which
+would not have disgraced a more refined assembly; while the latter might
+not have disdained, and would not have been disgraced by, copying the
+good order, decorum, and inoffensive cheerfulness which our humble
+masquerade presented. It does especial credit to the dispositions and
+good sense of our men, that, though all the officers entered fully into
+the spirit of these amusements, which took place once a month, no
+instance occurred of anything that could interfere with the regular
+discipline, or at all weaken the respect of the men towards their
+superiors. Ours were masquerades without licentiousness; carnivals
+without excess.
+
+But an occupation not less assiduously pursued, and of infinitely more
+eventual benefit, was furnished by the re-establishment of our schools,
+under the voluntary superintendence of my friend Mr. Hooper in the
+Hecla, and of Mr. Mogg in the Fury. By the judicious zeal of Mr. Hooper,
+the Hecla's school was made subservient, not merely to the improvement
+of the men in reading and writing (in which, however, their progress was
+surprisingly great), but also to the cultivation of that religious
+feeling which so essentially improves the character of a seaman, by
+furnishing the highest motives for increased attention to every other
+duty. Nor was the benefit confined to the eighteen or twenty
+individuals whose want of scholarship brought them to the school-table,
+but extended itself to the rest of the ship's company, making the whole
+lower-deck such a scene of quiet rational occupation as I never before
+saw on board a ship. And I do not speak lightly when I express my
+thorough persuasion, that to the moral effects thus produced upon the
+minds of the men, were owing, in a very high degree, the constant yet
+sober cheerfulness, the uninterrupted good order, and even, in some
+measure, the extraordinary state of health which prevailed among us
+during this winter.
+
+The extreme facility with which sounds are heard at a considerable
+distance in severely cold weather, has often been a subject of remark;
+but a circumstance occurred at Port Bowen which deserves to be noticed,
+as affording a sort of measure of this facility, or, at least, conveying
+to others some definite idea of the fact. Lieutenant Foster having
+occasion to send a man from the observatory to the opposite shore of the
+harbour, a measured distance of 6696 feet, or about one statute mile and
+two tenths, in order to fix a meridian mark, had placed a second person
+half way between, to repeat his directions; but he found, on trial, that
+this precaution was unnecessary, as he could, without difficulty, keep
+up a conversation with the man at the distant station. The thermometer
+was at this time-18°, the barometer 30.14 inches, and the weather nearly
+calm, and quite clear and serene.
+
+About one o'clock on the morning of the 23d February, the Aurora
+appeared over the hills in a south direction, presenting a brilliant
+mass of light. The rolling motion of the light laterally was very
+striking, as well as the increase of its intensity thus occasioned. The
+light occupied horizontally about a point of the compass, and extended
+in height scarcely a degree above the land, which seemed, however, to
+conceal from us a part of the phenomenon. It was always evident enough
+that the most attenuated light of the Aurora sensibly dimmed the stars,
+like a thin veil drawn over them. We frequently listened for any sound
+proceeding from this phenomenon, but never heard any. Our variation
+needles, which were extremely light, suspended in the most delicate
+manner, and, from the weak directive energy, susceptible of being acted
+upon by a very slight disturbing force, were never, in a single
+instance, sensibly affected by the Aurora, which could scarcely fail to
+have been observed at some time or other, had any such disturbance taken
+place, the needles being visited every hour for several months, and
+oftener when anything occurred to make it desirable.
+
+The meteors called falling stars were much more frequent during this
+winter than we ever before saw them, and particularly during the month
+of December.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+
+     Re-equipment of the Ships.--Several Journeys undertaken.--Open
+     Water in the Offing.--Commence sawing a Canal to liberate the
+     Ships.--Disruption of the Ice.--Departure from Port Bowen.
+
+
+
+The height of the land about Port Bowen deprived us longer than usual of
+the sun's presence above our horizon. Some of our gentlemen, indeed, who
+ascended a high hill for the purpose, caught a glimpse of him on the 2d
+of February; on the 15th it became visible at the observatory, but at
+the ships not till the 22d, after an absence of one hundred and
+twenty-one days. It is very long after the sun's reappearance in these
+regions, however, that the effect of his rays, as to warmth, becomes
+perceptible; week passes after week, with scarcely any rise in the
+thermometer except for an hour or two during the day; and it is at this
+period more than any other, perhaps, that the lengthened duration of a
+Polar winter's cold is most wearisome, and creates the most impatience.
+Towards the third week in March, thin flakes of snow lying upon black
+painted wood or metal, and exposed to the sun's direct rays in a
+sheltered situation, readily melted. In the second week of April any
+very light covering of sand or ashes upon the snow close to the ships
+might be observed to make its way downward into holes; but a coat of
+sand laid upon the unsheltered ice, to the distance of about two thirds
+of a mile, for dissolving a canal to hasten our liberation, produced no
+such sensible effect till the beginning of May. Even then the
+dissolution was very trifling till about the first week in June, when
+pools of water began to make their appearance, and not long after this a
+small boat would have floated down it. On shore the effect is, in
+general, still more tardy, though some deception is there occasioned by
+the dissolution of the snow next the ground, while its upper surface is
+to all appearance undergoing little or no change. Thus a greater
+alteration is sometimes produced in the aspect of the land by a single
+warm day in an advanced part of the season, than in many weeks
+preceding, in consequence of the last crust of snow being dissolved,
+leaving the ground at length entirely bare. We could now perceive the
+snow beginning to leave the stones from day to day, as early as the last
+week in April. Towards the end of May a great deal of snow was dissolved
+daily; but, owing to the porous nature of the ground, which absorbed it
+as fast as it was formed, it was not easy to procure water for drinking
+on shore, even as late as the 10th of June. In the ravines, however, it
+could be heard trickling under stones before that time; and about the
+18th, many considerable streams were formed, and constantly running both
+night and day. After this the thawing proceeded at an inconceivably
+rapid rate, the whole surface of the floes being covered with large
+pools of water rapidly increasing in size and depth.
+
+The animals seen at Port Bowen may now be briefly noticed. The principal
+of these seen during the winter were bears, of which we killed twelve
+from October to June, being more than during all the other voyages
+taken together; and several others were seen. One of these animals was
+near proving fatal to a seaman of the Fury, who, having straggled from
+his companions, when at the top of a high hill saw a large bear coming
+towards him. Being unarmed, he prudently made off, taking off his boots
+to enable him to run the faster, but not so prudently precipitated
+himself over an almost perpendicular cliff, down which he was said to
+have rolled or fallen several hundred feet; here he was met by some of
+the people in so lacerated a condition as to be in a very dangerous
+state for some time after.
+
+A she-bear, killed in the open water on our first arrival at Port Bowen,
+afforded a striking instance of maternal affection in her anxiety to
+save her two cubs. She might herself easily have escaped the boat, but
+would not forsake her young, which she was actually "towing" off, by
+allowing them to rest on her back, when the boat came near them. A
+second similar instance occurred in the spring, when two cubs having got
+down into a large crack in the ice, their mother placed herself before
+them, so as to secure them from the attacks of our people, which she
+might easily have avoided herself.
+
+One or two foxes (_Canis Lagopus_) were killed, and four caught in traps
+during the winter, weighing from four pounds and three quarters to three
+pounds and three quarters. The colour of one of these animals, which
+lived for some time on board the Fury, and became tolerably tame, was
+nearly pure white till the month of May, when he shed his winter coat,
+and became of a dirty chocolate colour, with two or three light brown
+spots. Only three hares (_Lepus Variabilis_) were killed from October
+to June, weighing from six to eight pounds and three quarters. Their fur
+was extremely thick, soft, and of the most beautiful whiteness
+imaginable. We saw no deer near Port Bowen at any season, neither were
+we visited by their enemies the wolves. A single ermine and a few mice
+(_Mus Hudsonius_) complete, I believe, our scanty list of quadrupeds at
+this desolate and unproductive place.
+
+Towards the end of June, the dovekies (_Colymbus Grylle_) were extremely
+numerous in the cracks of the ice at the entrance of Port Bowen; and as
+these were the only fresh supply of any consequence that we were able to
+procure at this unproductive place, we were glad to permit the men to go
+out occasionally with guns, after the ships were ready for sea, to
+obtain for their messes this wholesome change of diet; while such
+excursions also contributed essentially to their general health and
+cheerfulness. Many hundreds of these birds were thus obtained in the
+course of a few days. On the evening of the 6th of July, however, I was
+greatly shocked at being informed by Captain Hoppner that John
+Cotterell,[007] a seaman of the Fury, had been found drowned in one of
+the cracks of the ice by two other men belonging to the same party, who
+had been with him but a few minutes before. We could never ascertain
+precisely in what manner this accident happened, but it was supposed
+that he must have overreached himself in stooping for a bird that he
+had killed. His remains were committed to the earth on Sunday the 10th,
+with every solemnity which the occasion demanded, and our situation
+would allow; and a tomb of stones, with a suitable inscription, was
+afterward erected over the grave.
+
+In order to obtain oil for another winter's consumption, before the
+ships could be released from the ice, and our travelling parties having
+seen a number of black whales in the open water to the northward, two
+boats from each ship were, with considerable labour, transported four
+miles along shore in that direction, to be in readiness for killing a
+whale and boiling the oil on the beach, whenever the open water should
+approach sufficiently near. Notwithstanding these preparations, however,
+it was vexatious to find that on the 9th of July the water was still
+three miles distant from the boats, and at least seven from Port Bowen.
+On the 12th, the ice in our neighbourhood began to detach itself, and
+the boats, under the command of Lieutenants Sherer and Ross, being
+launched on the following day, succeeded almost immediately in killing a
+small whale of "five feet bone," exactly answering our purpose. Almost
+at the same time, and, as it turned out, very opportunely, the ice at
+the mouth of our harbour detached itself at an old crack, and drifted
+off, leaving only about one mile and a quarter between us and the sea.
+Half of this distance being occupied by the gravelled canal, which was
+dissolved quite through the ice in many parts, and had become very thin
+in all, every officer and man in both ships were set to work without
+delay to commence a fresh canal from the open water to communicate with
+the other. This work proved heavier than we expected, the ice being
+generally from five to eight feet, and in many places from ten to eleven
+in thickness. It was continued, however, with the greatest cheerfulness
+and alacrity from seven in the morning till seven in the evening daily,
+the dinner being prepared on the ice, and eaten under the lee of a
+studding sail erected as a tent.
+
+On the afternoon of the 19th, a very welcome stop was put to our
+operations by the separation of the floe entirely across the harbour,
+and about one third from the ships to where we were at work. All hands
+being instantly recalled by signal, were, on their return, set to work
+to get the ships into the gravelled canal, and to saw away what still
+remained in it to prevent our warping to sea. This work, with only half
+an hour's intermission for the men's supper, was continued till half
+past six the following morning, when we succeeded in getting clear. The
+weather being calm, two hours were occupied in towing the ships to sea,
+and thus the officers and men were employed at a very laborious work for
+twenty-six hours, during which time there were, on one occasion, fifteen
+of them overboard at once; and, indeed, several individuals met with the
+same accident three times. It was impossible, however, to regret the
+necessity of these comparatively trifling exertions, especially as it
+was now evident that to saw our way out without any canal would have
+required at least a fortnight of heavy and fatiguing labour.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+
+     Sail over towards the Western Coast of Prince Regent's
+     Inlet.--Stopped by the Ice.--Reach the Shore about Cape
+     Seppings.--Favourable Progress along the Land.--Fresh and repeated
+     Obstructions from Ice.--Both Ships driven on Shore.--Fury seriously
+     damaged.--Unsuccessful Search for a Harbour for heaving her down to
+     repair.
+
+
+
+_July_ 20.--On standing out to sea, we sailed, with a light southerly
+wind, towards the western shore of Prince Regent's Inlet, which it was
+my first wish to gain, on account of the evident advantage to be derived
+from coasting the southern part of that portion of land called in the
+chart "North Somerset," as far as it might lead to the westward; which,
+from our former knowledge, we had reason to suppose it would do as far
+at least as the longitude of 95°, in the parallel of about 72-3/4°.
+After sailing about eight miles, we were stopped by a body of close ice
+lying between us and a space of open water beyond. We were shortly after
+enveloped in one of the thick fogs which had, for several weeks past,
+been observed almost daily hanging over some part of the sea in the
+offing, though we had scarcely experienced any in Port Bowen until the
+water became open at the mouth of the harbour.
+
+On the clearing up of the fog on the 21st, we could perceive no opening
+of the ice leading towards the western land, nor any appearance of the
+smallest channel to the southward along the eastern shore. I was
+determined, therefore, to try at once a little farther to the
+northward, the present state of the ice appearing completely to accord
+with that observed in 1819, its breadth increasing as we advanced from
+Prince Leopold's Islands to the southward.
+
+Light winds detained us very much, but, being at length favoured by a
+breeze, we carried all sail to the northwest, the ice very gradually
+leading us towards the Leopold Isles. Having arrived off the
+northernmost on the morning of the 22nd, it was vexatious, however
+curious, to observe the exact coincidence of the present position of the
+ice with that which it occupied a little later in the year 1819. The
+whole body of it seemed to cling to the western shore, as if held there
+by some strong attraction, forbidding, for the present, any access to
+it. After running all night, with light and variable winds, through
+loose and scattered ice, we suddenly found ourselves, on the clearing up
+of a thick fog through which we had been sailing on the morning of the
+24th, within one third of a mile of Cape Seppings, the land just
+appearing above the fog in time to save us from danger, the soundings
+being thirty-eight fathoms, on a rocky bottom. The Fury being apprized
+by guns of our situation, both ships were hauled off the land, and the
+fog soon after dispersing, we had the satisfaction to perceive that the
+late gale had blown the ice off the land, leaving us a fine navigable
+channel from one to two miles wide, as far as we could see from the
+masthead along the shore. We were able to avail ourselves of this but
+slowly, however, in consequence of a light southerly breeze still
+blowing against us.
+
+The land here, when closely viewed, assumes a very striking, and
+magnificent character; the strata of limestone, which are numerous and
+quite horizontally disposed, being much more regular than on the eastern
+shore of Prince Regent's Inlet, and retaining nearly their whole
+perpendicular height of six or seven hundred feet close to the sea. I
+may here remark, that the whole of Barrow's Strait, as far as we could
+see to the N.N.E. of the islands, was entirely free from ice; and, from
+whatever circumstance it may proceed, I do not think that this part of
+the Polar Sea is at any season very much encumbered with it.
+
+It was the general feeling at this period among us, that the voyage had
+but now commenced. The labours of a bad summer, and the tedium of a long
+winter, were forgotten in a moment when we found ourselves upon ground
+not hitherto explored, and with every apparent prospect before us of
+making as rapid a progress as the nature of this navigation will permit,
+towards the final accomplishment of our object.
+
+A breeze enabling us again to make some progress, and an open channel
+still favouring us, of nearly the same breadth as before, we passed,
+during the night of the 25th, a second bay, about the same size as the
+other, and also appearing open to the sea; it lies in latitude (by
+account from the preceding and following noon) 73° 19' 30", and its
+width is one mile and a half. We now perceived that the ice closed
+completely in with the land a short distance beyond us; and, having made
+all the way we could, were obliged to stand off and on during the day in
+a channel not three quarters of a mile wide.
+
+A light southerly breeze on the morning of the 28th gradually cleared
+the shore, and a fresh wind from the N.W. then immediately succeeded. We
+instantly took advantage of this circumstance, and, casting off at six
+A.M., ran eight or nine miles without obstruction, when we were stopped
+by the ice, which, in a closely packed and impenetrable body, stretched
+close into the shore as far as the eye could reach from the crow's nest.
+Being anxious to gain every foot of distance that we could, and
+perceiving some grounded ice which appeared favourable for making fast
+to, just at a point where the clear water terminated, the ships were run
+to the utmost extent of it, and a boat prepared from each to examine the
+water at the intended anchoring place. Just as I was about to leave the
+Hecla for that purpose, the ice was observed, to be in rapid motion
+towards the shore. The Fury was immediately hauled in by some grounded
+masses, and placed to the best advantage; but the Hecla, being more
+advanced, was immediately beset in spite of every exertion, and, after
+breaking two of the largest ice-anchors in endeavouring to heave in to
+the shore, was obliged to drift with the ice, several masses of which
+had fortunately interposed themselves between us and the land. The ice
+slackening around us a little in the evening, we were enabled, with
+considerable labour, to get to some grounded masses, where we lay much
+exposed, as the Fury also did. In this situation, our latitude being 72°
+51' 51", we saw a comparatively low point of land three or four leagues
+to the southward, which proved to be near that which terminated our view
+of this coast in 1819.
+
+The ice opening for a mile and a half alongshore on the 30th, we shifted
+the Hecla's berth about that distance to the southward, chiefly to be
+enabled to see more distinctly round a point which before obstructed our
+view, though our situation as regarded the security of the ship was much
+altered for the worse. In the afternoon it blew a hard gale, with
+constant rain, from the northward, the clouds indicating an easterly
+wind in other parts. This wind, which was always the troublesome one to
+us, soon brought the ice closer and closer, till it pressed with very
+considerable violence on both ships, though the most upon the Fury,
+which lay in a very exposed situation. Early on the morning of the 31st,
+as soon as a communication could be effected, Captain Hoppner sent to
+inform me that the Fury had been forced on the ground, where she still
+lay; but that she would probably be hove off without much difficulty at
+high water, provided the external ice did not prevent it. A large party
+of hands from the Hecla being sent round to the Fury towards high water,
+she came off the ground with very little strain, so that, upon the
+whole, considering the situation in which the ships were lying, we
+thought ourselves fortunate in having incurred no very serious injury. A
+shift of wind to the southward in the afternoon at length began
+gradually to slacken it, but it was not till six A.M. on the 1st of
+August that there appeared a prospect of making any progress. The signal
+to that effect was immediately made; but, while the sails were setting,
+the ice, which had at first been three quarters of a mile distant from
+us, was observed to be closing the shore The ships were cast with all
+expedition, in hopes of gaining the broader channel before the ice had
+time to shut us up. So rapid, however, was the latter in this its sudden
+movement, that we had but just got the ships' heads the right way when
+the ice came boldly in upon us, being doubtless set in motion by a very
+sudden freshening of the wind almost to a gale in the course of a few
+minutes. The ships were now almost instantly beset, and in such a manner
+as to be literally helpless and unmanageable.
+
+The sails were, however, kept set; and, as the body of ice was setting
+to the southward withal, we went with it some little distance in that
+direction. The Hecla, after thus driving, and now and then forcing her
+way through the ice, in all about three quarters of a mile, quite close
+to the shore, at length struck the ground forcibly several times in the
+space of a hundred yards, and being then brought up by it, remained
+immoveable, the depth of water under her keel abaft being sixteen feet,
+or about a foot less than she drew. The Fury, continuing to drive, was
+now irresistibly carried past us, and we escaped, only by a few feet,
+the damage invariably occasioned by ships coming in contact under such
+circumstances. She had, however, scarcely passed us a hundred yards,
+when it was evident, by the ice pressing her in, as well as along the
+shore, that she must soon be stopped like the Hecla; and having gone
+about two hundred yards farther, she was observed to receive a severe
+pressure from a large floe-piece forcing her directly against a grounded
+mass of ice upon the beach. After setting to the southward for an hour
+or two longer, the ice became stationary, no open water being anywhere
+visible from the masthead, and the pressure on the ships remaining
+undiminished during the day. Just as I had ascertained the utter
+impossibility of moving the Hecla a single foot, and that she must lie
+aground fore and aft as soon as the tide fell, I received a note from
+Captain Hoppner, informing me that the Fury had been so severely
+"nipped" and strained as to leak a good deal, apparently about four
+inches an hour; that she was still heavily pressed both upon the ground
+and against the large mass of ice within her; that the rudder was at
+present very awkwardly situated; and that one boat had been much
+damaged. However, about high water, the ice very opportunely slacking,
+the Hecla was hove off with great ease, and warped to a floe in the
+offing, to which we made fast at midnight. The Fury was not long after
+us in coming off the ground, when I was in hopes of finding that any
+twist or strain by which her leaks might have been occasioned, would, in
+some measure, close when she was relieved from pressure and once more
+fairly afloat. My disappointment and mortification, therefore, may in
+some measure be imagined, at being informed by telegraph, about two A.M.
+on the 2d, that the water was gaining on two pumps, and that a part of
+the doubling had floated up. Presently after, perceiving from the
+masthead something like a small harbour nearly abreast of us, every
+effort was made to get once more towards the shore. In this the ice
+happily favoured us; and, after making sail, and one or two tacks, we
+got in with the land, when I left the ship in a boat to sound the place
+and search for shelter. The whole shore was more or less lined with
+grounded masses of ice; but, after examining the soundings within more
+than twenty of them, in the space of about a mile, I could only find two
+that would allow the ships to float at low water, and that by some care
+in placing and keeping them there. Having fixed a flag on each berg, the
+usual signal for the ships taking their stations, I rowed on board the
+Fury, and found four pumps constantly going to keep the ship free, and
+Captain Hoppner, his officers and men, almost exhausted with the
+incessant labour of the last eight-and-forty hours. The instant the
+ships were made fast, Captain Hoppner and myself set out in a boat to
+survey the shore still farther south, there being a narrow lane of water
+about a mile in that direction; for it had now become too evident that
+the Fury could proceed no farther without repairs, and that the nature
+of those repairs would in all probability involve the disagreeable, I
+may say the ruinous, necessity of heaving the ship down. After rowing
+about three quarters of a mile, we considered ourselves fortunate in
+arriving at a bolder part of the beach, where three grounded masses of
+ice, having from three to four fathoms water at low tide within them,
+were so disposed as to afford, with the assistance of art, something
+like shelter. Returning to the ships, we were setting the sails in order
+to run to the appointed place, when the ice closed in and prevented our
+moving, and in a short time there was once more no open water to be
+seen. We were therefore under the necessity of remaining in our present
+berths, where the smallest external pressure must inevitably force us
+ashore, neither ship having more than two feet of water to spare. One
+watch of the Hecla's crew were sent round to assist at the Fury's
+pumps, which required one third of her ship's company to be constantly
+employed at them.
+
+The more leisure we obtained to consider the state of the Fury, the more
+apparent became the absolute, however unfortunate, necessity of heaving
+her down. Four pumps were required to be at work without intermission to
+keep her free, and this in perfectly smooth water, showing that she was,
+in fact, so materially injured as to be very far from seaworthy. One
+third of her working men were constantly employed, as before remarked,
+in this laborious operation, and some of their hands had become so sore
+from the constant friction of the ropes, that they could hardly handle
+them any longer without the use of mittens, assisted by the unlaying of
+the ropes to make them soft. As, therefore, not a moment could be lost,
+we took advantage of a small lane of water, deep enough for boats, which
+kept open within the grounded masses along the shore, to convey to the
+Hecla some of the Fury's dry provisions, and to land a quantity of heavy
+iron work, and other stores not perishable; for the moment this measure
+was determined on, I was anxious, almost at any risk, to commence the
+lightening of the ship as far as our present insecurity and our distance
+from the shore would permit.
+
+At two A.M. on the 5th, the ice began to slacken near the ships, and, as
+soon as a boat could be rowed alongshore to the southward, I set out,
+accompanied by a second from the Fury, for the purpose of examining the
+state of our intended harbour since the recent pressure, and to
+endeavour to prepare for the reception of the ships by clearing out the
+loose ice. The Fury was detained some time by a quantity of loose ice,
+which had wedged itself in in such a manner as to leave her no room to
+move outward; but she arrived about seven o'clock, when both ships were
+made fast in the best berths we could find, but they were excluded from
+their intended place by the quantity of ice which had fixed itself
+there. Within twenty minutes after our arrival, the whole body of ice
+again came in, entirely closing up the shore, so that our moving proved
+most opportune.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+
+     Formation of a Basin for heaving the Fury down.--Landing of the
+     Fury's Stores, and other Preparations.--The Ships secured within
+     the Basin.--Impediments from the Pressure of the Ice.--Fury hove
+     down.--Securities of the Basin destroyed by a Gale of
+     Wind.--Preparations to tow the Fury out.--Hecla Re-equipped, and
+     obliged to put to Sea.--Fury again driven on Shore.--Rejoin the
+     Fury; and find it necessary finally to abandon her.
+
+
+
+As there was now no longer room for floating the ice out of the proposed
+basin, all hands were immediately employed in preparing the intended
+securities against the incursions of the ice. These consisted of anchors
+carried to the beach, having bower-cables attached to them, passing
+quite round the grounded masses, and thus enclosing a small space of
+just sufficient size to admit both ships. The cables we proposed
+floating by means of the two hand-masts and some empty casks lashed to
+them as buoys, with the intention of thus making them receive the
+pressure of the ice a foot or two below the surface of the water. By
+uncommon exertions on the part of the officers and men, this laborious
+work was completed before night as far as was practicable until the
+loose ice should set out; and all the tents were set up on the beach for
+the reception of the Fury's stores.
+
+The ice remaining quite close on the 6th, every individual in both
+ships, with the exception of those at the pumps, was employed in landing
+provisions from the Fury, together with the spars, boats, and everything
+from off her upper deck. On the following day, the ice remaining as
+before, the work was continued without intermission, and a great
+quantity of things landed. The armorer was also set to work on the beach
+in forging bolts for the martingales of the outriggers. In short, every
+living creature among us was somehow or other employed, not even
+excepting our dogs, which were set to drag up the stores on the beach;
+so that our little dock-yard soon exhibited the most animated scene
+imaginable. The Fury was thus so much lightened in the course of the
+day, that two pumps were now nearly sufficient to keep her free, and
+this number continued requisite until she was hove down.
+
+At night, just as the people were going to rest, the ice began to move
+to the southward, and soon after came in towards the shore, pressing the
+Fury over on her side to so alarming a degree, as to warn us that it
+would not be safe to lighten her much more in her present insecure
+situation. One of our bergs also shifted its position by this pressure,
+so as to weaken our confidence in the pier-heads of our intended basin;
+and a long "tongue" of one of them forcing itself under the Hecla's
+forefoot, while the drifting ice was also pressing her forcibly from
+astern, she once more sewed three or four feet forward at low water, and
+continued to do so, notwithstanding repeated endeavours to haul her off,
+for four successive tides, the ice remaining so close and so much
+doubled under the ship, as to render it impossible to move her a single
+inch. Notwithstanding the state of the ice, however, we did not remain
+idle on the 8th, all hands being employed in unrigging the Fury, and
+landing all her spars, sails, booms, boats, and other top weight.
+
+The ice still continuing very close on the 9th, all hands were employed
+in attempting, by saws and axes, to clear the Hecla, which still
+grounded on the tongue of ice every tide. After four hours' labour, they
+succeeded in making four or five feet of room astern, when the ship
+suddenly slid down off the tongue with considerable force, and became
+once more afloat. As it very opportunely happened, the external ice
+slackened to the distance of about a hundred yards outside of us on the
+morning of the 10th, enabling us, by a most tedious and laborious
+operation, to clear the ice out of our basin piece by piece. Our next
+business was to tighten the cables sufficiently by means of purchases,
+and to finish the floating of them in the manner and for the purpose
+before described. After this had been completed, the ships had only a
+few feet in length, and nothing in breadth to spare, but we had now
+great hopes of going on with our work with increased confidence and
+security. The Fury, which was placed inside, had something less than
+eighteen feet at low water; the Hecla lay in four fathoms, the bottom
+being strewed with large and small fragments of limestone.
+
+While thus employed in securing the ships, the smoothness of the water
+enabled us to see, in some degree, the nature of the Fury's damage; and
+it may be conceived how much pain it occasioned us plainly to discover
+that both the sternpost and forefoot were broken and turned up on one
+side with the pressure. We also could perceive, as far as we were able
+to see along the main keel, that it was much torn, and we had therefore
+much reason to conclude that the damage would altogether prove very
+serious. We also discovered that several feet of the Hecla's false keel
+were torn away abreast of the forechains, in consequence of her
+grounding forward so frequently.
+
+Being favoured with fine weather, we continued our work very quickly, so
+that on the 12th every cask was landed, and also the powder; and the
+spare sails and clothing put on board the Hecla. The coals and preserved
+meats were the principal things now remaining on board the Fury, and
+these we continued landing by every method we could devise as the most
+expeditious.
+
+Early on the morning of the 14th, the ice slackening a little in our
+neighbourhood, we took advantage of it, though the people were much
+fagged, to tighten the cables, which had stretched and yielded
+considerably by the late pressure. It was well that we did so; for in
+the course of this day we were several times interrupted in our work by
+the ice coming with a tremendous strain on the north cables, the wind
+blowing strong from the N.N.W., and the whole "pack" outside of us
+setting rapidly to the southward. Indeed, notwithstanding the recent
+tightening and readjustment of the cables, the bight was pressed in so
+much as to force the Fury against the berg astern of her twice in the
+course of the day.
+
+From this trial of the efficacy of our means of security, it was plain
+that the Fury could not possibly be hove down under circumstances of
+such frequent and imminent risk: I therefore directed a fourth anchor,
+with two additional cables, to be carried out, with the hope of breaking
+some of the force of the ice by its offering a more oblique resistance
+than the other, and thus, by degrees, turning the direction of the
+pressure from the ships. We had scarcely completed this new defence,
+when the largest floe we had seen since leaving Port Bowen came sweeping
+along the shore, having a motion to the southward of not less than a
+mile and a half an hour; and a projecting point of it, just grazing our
+outer berg, threatened to overturn it, and would certainly have
+dislodged it from its situation but for the cable recently attached to
+it.
+
+The Fury being completely cleared at an early hour on the 16th, we were
+all busily employed in "winding" the ship, and in preparing the
+outriggers, shores, purchases, and additional rigging. Though we
+purposely selected the time of high water for turning the ship round, we
+had scarcely a foot of space to spare for doing it; and indeed, as it
+was, her forefoot touched the ground, and loosened the broken part of
+the wood so much as to enable us to pull it up with ropes, when we found
+the fragments to consist of the whole of the "gripe" and most of the
+"cutwater." In the evening we received the Fury's crew on board the
+Hecla, every arrangement and regulation having been previously made for
+their personal comfort, and for the preservation of cleanliness,
+ventilation, and dry warmth throughout the ship. The officers of the
+Fury, by their own choice, pitched a tent on shore for messing and
+sleeping in, as our accommodation for two sets of officers was
+necessarily confined. Every preparation being made, at three A.M. on the
+18th we began to heave her down on the larboard side; but when the
+purchases were nearly ablock, we found that the strops under the Hecla's
+bottom, as well as some of the Fury's shore-fasts, had stretched or
+yielded so much that they could not bring the keel out of water within
+three or four feet. We immediately eased her up again, and readjusted
+everything as requisite, hauling her farther in-shore than before by
+keeping a considerable heel upon her, so as to make less depth of water
+necessary; and we were then in the act of once more heaving her down,
+when a snowstorm came on and blew with such violence off the land as to
+raise a considerable sea. The ships had now so much motion as to strain
+the gear very much, and even to make the lower masts of the Fury bend in
+spite of the shores; we were, therefore, most unwillingly compelled to
+desist until the sea should go down, keeping everything ready to
+recommence the instant we could possibly do so with safety. The officers
+and men were now literally so harassed and fatigued as to be scarcely
+capable of farther exertion without some rest; and on this and one or
+two other occasions, I noticed more than a single instance of stupor,
+amounting to a certain degree of failure in intellect, rendering the
+individual so affected quite unable at first to comprehend the meaning
+of an order, though still as willing as ever to obey it. It was
+therefore, perhaps, a fortunate necessity that produced the intermission
+of labour which the strength of every individual seemed to require.
+
+The gale rather increasing than otherwise during the whole day and night
+of the 18th, had, on the following morning, when the wind and sea still
+continued unabated, so destroyed the bergs on which our sole dependance
+was placed, that they no longer remained aground at low water; the
+cables had again become slack about them, and the basin we had taken so
+much pains in forming had now lost all its defences, at least during a
+portion of every tide. After a night of most anxious consideration and
+consultation with Captain Hoppner, who was now my messmate in the Hecla,
+it appeared but too plain that, should the ice again come in, neither
+ship could any longer be secured from driving on shore. It was therefore
+determined instantly to prepare the Hecla for sea, making her thoroughly
+effective in every respect; so that we might at least push _her_ out
+into comparative safety among the ice when it closed again, taking every
+person on board her, securing the Fury in the best manner we could, and
+returning to her the instant we were able to do so, to endeavour to get
+her out, and to carry her to some place of security for heaving down.
+If, after the Hecla was ready, time should still be allowed us, it was
+proposed immediately to put into the Fury all that was requisite, or, at
+least, as much as she could safely carry, and, towing her out into the
+ice, to try the effect of "foddering" the leaks by sails under those
+parts of her keel which we knew to be damaged, until some more effectual
+means could be resorted to.
+
+Having communicated to the assembled officers and ships' companies my
+views and intentions, we commenced our work; and such was the hearty
+good-will and indefatigable energy with which it was carried on, that by
+midnight the whole was accomplished.
+
+On the 20th, therefore, the reloading of the Fury commenced with
+recruited strength and spirits, such articles being in the first place
+selected for putting on board as were essentially requisite for her
+reequipment; for it was my full determination, could we succeed in
+completing this, not to wait even for rigging a topmast, or getting a
+lower yard up, in the event of the ice coming in, but to tow her out
+among the ice, and there put everything sufficiently to rights for
+carrying her to some place of security. A few hands were also spared,
+consisting chiefly of two or three convalescents, and some of the
+officers, to thrum a sail for putting under the Fury's keel; for we were
+very anxious to relieve the men at the pumps, which constantly required
+the labour of eight to twelve hands to keep her free. By a long and hard
+day's labour, the people not going to rest till two o'clock on the
+morning of the 21st, we got about fifty tons' weight of coals and
+provisions on board the Fury, which, in case of necessity, we considered
+sufficient to give her stability. Having hauled the ships out a little
+from the shore, and prepared the Hecla for casting by a spring at a
+moment's notice, all the people except those at the pumps were sent to
+rest, which, however, they had not enjoyed for two hours, when, at four
+A.M. on the 21st, another heavy mass coming violently in contact with
+the bergs and cables, threatened to sweep away every remaining security.
+More hawsers were run out, however, and enabled us still to hold on;
+and, after six hours of disturbed rest, all hands were again set to work
+to get the Fury's anchors, cables, rudder, and spars on board, these
+being absolutely necessary for her equipment, should we be able to get
+her out. At two P.M. the crews were called on board to dinner, which
+they had not finished when several not very large masses of ice drove
+along the shore near us at a quick rate, and two or three successively
+coming in violent contact either with the Hecla or the bergs to which
+she was attached, convinced me that very little additional pressure
+would tear everything away, and drive both ships on shore. I saw that
+the moment had arrived when the Hecla could no longer be kept in her
+present situation with the smallest chance of safety, and therefore
+immediately got under sail, despatching Captain Hoppner with every
+individual, except a few for working the ship, to continue getting the
+things on board the Fury, while the Hecla stood off and on. Captain
+Hoppner had scarcely been an hour on board the Fury, and was busily
+engaged in getting the anchors and cables on board, when we observed
+some large pieces of not very heavy ice closing in with the land near
+her; and at twenty minutes past four P.M., being an hour and five
+minutes after the Hecla had cast off, I was informed by signal that the
+Fury was on shore. As the navigating of the Hecla, with only ten men on
+board, required constant attention and care, I could not at this time,
+with propriety, leave the ship to go on board the Fury. I therefore
+directed Captain Hoppner by telegraph, "if he thought nothing could be
+done at present, to return on board with all hands until the wind
+changed;" for this alone, as far as I could see the state of the Fury,
+seemed to offer the smallest chance of clearing the shore, so as to
+enable us to proceed with our work, or to attempt hauling the ship off
+the ground. About seven P.M. Captain Hoppner returned to the Hecla,
+accompanied by all hands, except an officer with a party at the pumps,
+reporting to me, that the Fury had been forced aground by the ice
+pressing on the masses lying near her, and bringing home, if not
+breaking, the seaward anchor, so that the ship was soon found to have
+sewed from two to three feet fore and aft.
+
+Finding, soon after Captain Hoppner's return, that the current swept the
+Hecla a long way to the southward while hoisting up the boats, and that
+more ice was drifting in towards the shore, I was under the painful
+necessity of recalling the party at the pumps, rather than incur the
+risk, now an inevitable one, of parting company with them altogether.
+Accordingly, Mr. Bird, with the last of the people, came on board at
+eight o'clock in the evening, having left eighteen inches water in the
+well, and four pumps being requisite to keep her free. In three hours
+after Mr. Bird's return, more than half a mile of closely packed ice
+intervened between the Fury and the open water in which we were
+beating, and before the morning this barrier had increased to four or
+five miles in breadth.
+
+We carried a press of canvass all night, with a fresh breeze from the
+north, to enable us to keep abreast of the Fury, which, on account of
+the strong southerly current, we could only do by beating at some
+distance from the land. The breadth of the ice in-shore continued
+increasing during the day, but we could see no end to the water in which
+we were beating, either to the southward or eastward. It fell quite calm
+in the evening, when the breadth of the ice in-shore had increased to
+six or seven miles. We did not, during the day, perceive any current
+setting to the southward, but in the course of the night we were drifted
+four or five leagues to the southwestward.
+
+A southerly breeze enabling us to regain our northing, we ran along the
+margin of the ice, but were led so much to the eastward by it, that we
+could approach the ship no nearer than before during the whole day. She
+appeared to us at this distance to have a much greater heel than when
+the people left her, which made us still more anxious to get near her.
+The latitude at noon was 72° 34' 57", making our distance from the Fury
+twelve miles, which, by the morning of the 25th, had increased to at
+least five leagues, the ice continuing to "pack" between us and the
+shore. The wind, however, now gradually drew round to the westward,
+giving us hopes of a change, and we continued to ply about the margin of
+the ice, in constant readiness for taking advantage of any opening that
+might occur. It favoured us so much by streaming off in the course of
+the day, that by seven P.M. we had nearly reached a channel of clear
+water, which kept open for seven or eight miles from the land. Being
+impatient to obtain a sight of the Fury, and the wind becoming light,
+Captain Hoppner and myself left the Hecla in two boats, and reached the
+ship at half past nine, or about three quarters of an hour before high
+water, being the most favourable time of tide for arriving to examine
+her condition.
+
+We found her heeling so much outward, that her main channels were within
+a foot of the water; and the large floe-piece, which was still alongside
+of her, seemed alone to support her below water, and to prevent her
+falling over still more considerably. The ship had been forced much
+farther up the beach than before, and she had now in her bilge above
+nine feet of water, which reached higher than the lower-deck beams. The
+first hour's inspection of the Fury's condition too plainly assured me
+that, exposed as she was, and forcibly pressed up upon an open and stony
+beach, her holds full of water, and the damage of her hull to all
+appearance and in all probability more considerable than before, without
+any adequate means of hauling her off to seaward, or securing her from
+the farther incursions of the ice, every endeavour of ours to get her
+off, or _if_ got off, to float her to any known place of safety, would
+be at once utterly hopeless in itself, and productive of extreme risk to
+our remaining ship.
+
+Mr. Pulfer, the carpenter of the Fury, considered that it would occupy
+five days to clear the ship of water; that if she were got off, all the
+pumps would not be sufficient to keep her free, in consequence of the
+additional damage she seemed to have sustained; and that, if even hove
+down, twenty days' work, with the means we possessed, would be required
+for making her sea-worthy. Captain Hoppner and the other officers were
+therefore of opinion, that an absolute necessity existed for abandoning
+the Fury. My own opinion being thus confirmed as to the utter
+hopelessness of saving her, and feeling more strongly than ever the
+responsibility which attached to me of preserving the Hecla unhurt, it
+was with extreme pain and regret that I made the signal for the Fury's
+officers and men to be sent for their clothes, most of which, had been
+put on shore with the stores.
+
+The whole of the Fury's stores were of necessity left either on board
+her or on shore, every spare corner that we could find in the Hecla
+being now absolutely required for the accommodation of our double
+complement of officers and men, whose cleanliness and health could only
+be maintained by keeping the decks as clear and well ventilated as our
+limited space would permit. The spot where the Fury was left is in
+latitude 72° 42' 30"; the longitude by chronometers is 91° 50' 05"; the
+dip of the magnetic needle 88° 19' 22"; and the variation 129° 25'
+westerly.
+
+When the accident first happened to the Fury, I confidently expected to
+be able to repair her damages in good time to take advantage of a large
+remaining part of the navigable season in the prosecution of the voyage;
+and while the clearing of the ship was going on with so much alacrity,
+and the repairs seemed to be within the reach of our means and
+resources, I still flattered myself with the same hope. Those
+expectations were now at an end. With a twelvemonth's provisions for
+both ship's companies, extending our resources only to the autumn of the
+following year, it would have been folly to hope for final success,
+considering the small progress we had already made, the uncertain nature
+of this navigation, and the advanced period of the present season. I was
+therefore reduced to the only remaining conclusion, that it was my duty,
+under all the circumstances of the case, to return to England in
+compliance with the plain tenour of my instructions. As soon as the
+boats were hoisted up, therefore, and the anchor stowed, the ship's head
+was put to the northeastward, with a light air off the land, in order to
+gain an offing before the ice should again set in-shore.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+
+     Some Remarks upon the Loss of the Fury--And on the Natural History,
+     &c., of the Coast of North Somerset.--Arrive at Neill's
+     Harbour.--Death of John Page.--Leave Neill's Harbour.--Recross the
+     Ice in Baffin's Bay.--Heavy Gales.--Temperature of the
+     Sea.--Arrival in England.
+
+
+
+The accident which had now befallen the Fury, and which, when its fatal
+result was finally ascertained, at once put an end to every prospect of
+success in the main object of this voyage, is not an event which will
+excite surprise in the minds of those who are either personally
+acquainted with the true nature of this precarious navigation, or have
+had patience to follow me through the tedious and monotonous detail of
+our operations during seven successive summers. To any persons thus
+qualified to judge, it will be plain that an occurrence of this nature
+was at all times rather to be expected than otherwise, and that the only
+real cause for wonder has been our long exemption from such a
+catastrophe.
+
+The summer of 1825 was, beyond all doubt, the warmest and most
+favourable we had experienced since that of 1818. Not more than two or
+three days occurred, during the months of July and August, in which that
+heavy fall of snow took place which so commonly converts the aspect of
+nature in these regions, in a single hour, from the cheerfulness of
+summer into the dreariness of winter. Indeed, we experienced very little
+either of snow, rain, or fog: vegetation, wherever the soil allowed any
+to spring up, was extremely luxuriant and forward; a great deal of the
+old snow, which had laid on the ground during the last season, was
+rapidly dissolving even early in August; and every appearance of nature
+exhibited a striking contrast with the last summer, while it seemed
+evidently to furnish an extraordinary compensation for its rigour and
+inclemency.
+
+We have scarcely ever visited a coast on which so little of animal life
+occurs. For days together, only one or two seals, a single seahorse, and
+now and then a flock of ducks, were seen. I have already mentioned,
+however, as an exception to this scarcity of animals, the numberless
+kittiwakes which were flying about the remarkable spout of water; and
+we were one day visited, at the place where the Fury was left, by
+hundreds of white whales, sporting about in the shoal water close to the
+beach. No black whales were ever seen on this coast. Two reindeer were
+observed by the gentlemen who extended their walks inland; but this was
+the only summer in which we did not procure a single pound of venison.
+Indeed, the whole of our supplies obtained in this way during the
+voyage, including fish, flesh, and fowl, did not exceed twenty pounds
+per man.
+
+The weather continuing nearly calm during the 26th, and the ice keeping
+at the distance of several miles from the land, gave us an opportunity
+of clearing decks, and stowing the things belonging to the Fury's crew
+more comfortably for their accommodation and convenience. I now felt
+more sensibly than ever the necessity I have elsewhere pointed out, of
+both ships employed on this kind of service being of the same size,
+equipped in the same manner, and alike efficient in every respect. The
+way in which we had been able to apply every article for assisting to
+heave the Fury down, without the smallest doubt or selection as to size
+or strength, proved an excellent practical example of the value of being
+thus able, at a moment's warning, to double the means and resources of
+either ship in case of necessity. In fact, by this arrangement, nothing
+but a harbour to secure the ships was wanted to complete the whole
+operation in as effectual a manner as in a dockyard; for not a shore, or
+outrigger, or any other precaution was omitted, that is usually attended
+to on such occasions, and all as good and effective as could anywhere
+have been desired. The advantages were now scarcely conspicuous in the
+accommodation of the officers and men, who in a short time became little
+less comfortable than in their own ship; whereas, in a smaller vessel,
+comfort, to say nothing of health, would have been quite out of the
+question.
+
+A breeze from the northward freshening up strong on the 27th, we
+stretched over to the eastern shore of Prince Regent's Inlet, and this
+with scarcely any obstruction from ice. We could, indeed, scarcely
+believe this the same sea which, but a few weeks before, had been loaded
+with one impenetrable body of closely-packed ice from shore to shore,
+and as far as the eye could discern to the southward. Having a great
+deal of heavy work to do in the restowage of the holds, which could not
+well be accomplished at sea, and also a quantity of water to fill for
+our increased complement, I determined to take advantage of our fetching
+the entrance of Neill's Harbour to put in here, in order to prepare the
+ship completely for crossing the Atlantic. I was desirous also of
+ascertaining the depth of water in this place, which was wanting to
+complete Lieutenant Sherer's survey of it. Finding the harbour an
+extremely convenient one for our purpose, we worked the ship in, and at
+four P.M. anchored in thirteen fathoms, but afterward shifted out to
+eighteen, on a bottom of soft mud. Almost at the moment of our dropping
+the anchor, John Page, seaman of the Fury, departed this life: he had
+for several months been affected with a scrofulous disorder, and had
+been gradually sinking for some time.
+
+The funeral of the deceased being performed, we immediately commenced
+landing the casks and filling water; but, notwithstanding the large
+streams which, a short time before, had been running into the harbour,
+we could hardly obtain enough for our purpose by sinking a cask with
+holes in it. This work, together with the entire restowage of all the
+holds, occupied the whole of the 29th and 30th, during which time
+Lieutenant Sherer was employed in completing the survey of the harbour,
+more especially the soundings, which the presence of the ice had before
+prevented. These arrangements had just been completed, when the
+northeasterly wind died away, and was succeeded, on the morning of the
+31st, by a light air from the northwest. As soon as we had sent to
+ascertain that the sea was clear of ice on the outside, and that the
+breeze which blew in the harbour was the true one, we weighed and stood
+out, and before noon had cleared the shoals at the entrance.
+
+Finding the wind at northwest in Prince Regent's Inlet, we were barely
+able to lie along the eastern coast. As the breeze freshened in the
+course of the day, a great deal of loose ice, in extensive streams and
+patches, came drifting down from the Leopold Islands, occasioning us
+some trouble in picking our way to the northward. By carrying a press of
+sail, however, we were enabled, towards night, to get into clearer
+water, and by four A.M. on the 1st of September, having beat to windward
+of a compact body of ice which had fixed itself on the lee shore about
+Cape York, we soon came into a perfectly open sea in Barrow's Strait,
+and were enabled to bear away to the eastward. We now considered
+ourselves fortunate in having got out of harbour when we did, as the ice
+would probably have filled up every inlet on that shore in a few hours
+after we left it.
+
+Being again favoured with a fair wind, we now stretched to the eastward,
+still in an open sea; and our curiosity was particularly excited to see
+the present situation of the ice in the middle of Baffin's Bay, and to
+compare it with that in 1824. This comparison we were enabled to make
+the more fairly, because the season at which we might expect to come to
+it coincided, within three or four days, with that in which we left it
+the preceding year. The temperature of the sea-water now increased to
+38° soon after leaving the Sound, where it had generally been from 33°
+to 35°, whereas at the same season last year it rose no higher than 32°
+anywhere in the neighbourhood, and remained even so high as that only
+for a very short time. This circumstance seemed to indicate the total
+absence of ice from those parts of the sea which had last autumn been
+wholly covered by it. Accordingly, on the 5th, being thirty miles beyond
+the spot in which we had before contended with numerous difficulties
+from ice, not a piece was to be seen, except one or two solitary bergs;
+and it was not till the following day, in latitude 72° 45', and
+longitude 64° 44', or about one hundred and twenty-seven miles to the
+eastward of where we made our escape on the 9th of September, 1824, that
+we fell in with a body of ice so loose and open as scarcely to oblige us
+to alter our course for it. At three P.M. on the 7th, being in latitude
+72° 30', and longitude 60° 05', and having, in the course of eighty
+miles that we had run through it, only made a single tack, we came to
+the margin of the ice, and got into an open sea on its eastern side. In
+the whole course of this distance, the ice was so much spread that it
+would not, if at all closely "packed," have occupied one third of the
+same space. There were at this time thirty-nine bergs in sight, and some
+of them certainly not less than two hundred feet in height.
+
+On the 8th, being in latitude 71° 55', longitude 60° 30', and close to
+the margin of the ice, we fell in with the Alfred, Ellison, and
+Elizabeth, whalers, of Hull, all running to the northward, even at this
+season, to look for whales.
+
+As the whaling-ships were not homeward bound, having as yet had
+indifferent success in the fishery, I did not consider it necessary to
+send despatches by them. After an hour's communication with them, and
+obtaining such information of a public nature as could not fail to be
+highly interesting to us, we made sail to the southward; while we
+observed them lying to for some time after, probably to consult
+respecting the unwelcome information with which we had furnished them as
+to the whales, not one of which, by some extraordinary chance, we had
+seen since leaving Neill's Harbour. As this circumstance was entirely
+new to us, it seems not unlikely that the whales are already beginning
+to shift their ground, in consequence of the increased attacks which
+have been made upon them of late years in that neighbourhood.
+
+On the 10th we had an easterly wind, which, gradually freshening to a
+gale, drew up the Strait from the southward, and blew strong for
+twentyfour hours from that quarter. The wind moderated on the 11th, but
+on the following day another gale came on, which for nine or ten hours
+blew in most tremendous gusts from the same quarter, and raised a heavy
+sea. We happily came near no ice during the night, or it would scarcely
+have been possible to keep the ship clear of it. It abated after
+daylight on the 13th, but continued to blow an ordinary gale for twelve
+hours longer.
+
+On the 17th, at noon, we had passed to the southward of the Arctic
+Circle, and from this latitude to that of about 58°, we had favourable
+winds and weather; but we remarked on this, as on several other
+occasions during this season, that a northerly breeze, contrary to
+ordinary observation, brought more moisture with it than any other. In
+the course of this run, we also observed more driftwood than we had ever
+done before, which I thought might possibly be owing to the very great
+prevalence of easterly winds this season driving it farther from the
+coast of Greenland than usual.
+
+On, the morning of the 24th, notwithstanding the continuance of a
+favourable breeze, we met, in the latitude of 58-1/2°, so heavy a swell
+from the northeastward as to make the ship labour violently for
+four-and-twenty hours. On the morning of the 25th we had again an
+easterly wind, which in a few hours reduced us to the close-reefed
+topsails and reefed courses. At eight P.M. it freshened to a gale, which
+brought us under the main-topsail and storm-staysails, and at seven the
+following morning it increased to a gale of such violence from N.E.b.N.
+as does not very often occur at sea in these latitudes. The gusts were
+at times so tremendous as to set the sea quite in a foam, and
+threatened to tear the sails out of the bolt-ropes. The wind gradually
+drew to the westward, with dry weather, after the gale began to abate,
+and at six A.M. we were enabled to bear up and run to the eastward with
+a strong gale at N.W.
+
+The indications of the barometer previous to and during this gale
+deserve to be noticed, because it is only about Cape Farewell that, in
+coming from the northward down Davis's Strait, this instrument begins to
+speak a language which has ever been intelligible to us _as a weather
+glass_. On the 24th, notwithstanding the change of wind from north to
+east, the mercury rose from 29.51 on that morning, to 29.72 at three
+A.M. the following day, but fell to 26.39 by nine P.M. with the strong
+but not violent breeze then blowing. After this it continued to descend
+very gradually, and had reached 28.84, which was its minimum, at three
+P.M. on the 26th, after which it continued to blow tremendously hard for
+eleven or twelve hours, the mercury uniformly, though slowly, ascending
+to 28.95 during that interval, and afterward to 29.73 as the weather
+became moderate and fine in the course of the täähree following days.
+
+After this gale the atmosphere seemed to be quite cleared, and we
+enjoyed a week of such remarkably fine weather as seldom occurs at this
+season of the year. We had then a succession of strong southerly winds,
+but we were enabled to continue our progress to the eastward, so as to
+make Mould Head, towards the northwest end of the Orkney Islands, at
+daylight on the 10th of October.
+
+After rounding the north end of the Orkneys on the 10th of October, we
+were, on the 12th, met by a strong southerly wind when off Peterhead. I
+therefore immediately landed (for the second time) at that place, and,
+setting off without delay for London, arrived at the Admiralty on the
+16th.
+
+The Hecla arrived at Sheerness on the 20th of October, where she was
+detained for a few days for the purpose of Captain Hoppner, his
+officers, and ship's company being put upon their trial (according to
+the customary and indispensable rule in such cases) for the loss of the
+Fury--when, it is scarcely necessary to add, they received an honourable
+acquittal. The Hecla then proceeded to Woolwich, and was paid off on the
+21st of November.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ACCOUNT
+
+OF
+
+THE ESQUIMAUX
+
+OF
+
+MELVILLE PENINSULA AND THE ADJOINING ISLANDS: MORE PARTICULARLY OF
+WINTER ISLAND AND IGLOOLIK.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ACCOUNT OF THE ESQUIMAUX.
+
+
+The number of individuals composing the tribe of Esquimaux assembled at
+Winter Island and Igloolik was two hundred and nineteen, of whom
+sixty-nine were men, seventy-seven women, and seventy-three children.
+Two or three of the men, from their appearance and infirmities, as well
+as from the age of their children, must have been near seventy; the rest
+were from twenty to about fifty. The majority of the women were
+comparatively young, or from twenty to five-and-thirty, and three or
+four only seemed to have reached sixty. Of the children, about one third
+were under four years old, and the rest from that age upward to sixteen
+or seventeen. Out of one hundred and fifty-five individuals who passed
+the winter at Igloolik, we knew of eighteen deaths and of only nine
+births.
+
+The stature of these people is much below that of Europeans in general.
+One man, who was unusually tall, measured five feet ten inches, and the
+shortest was only four feet eleven inches and a half. Of twenty
+individuals of each sex measured at Igloolik, the range was:
+
+
+Men.--From 5 ft. 10 in. to 4 ft. 11 in.
+  The average height, 5 ft. 5-1/3 in.
+Women.--From 5 ft. 3-1/2 in. to 4 ft. 8-3/4 in.
+  The average height, 5 ft. 0-1/2 in.
+
+
+The women, however, generally appear shorter than they really are, both
+from the unwieldy nature of their clothes, and from a habit, which they
+early acquire, of stooping considerably forward in order to balance the
+weight of the child they carry in their hood.
+
+In their figure they are rather well formed than otherwise. Their knees
+are indeed rather large in proportion, but their legs are straight, and
+the hands and feet, in both sexes, remarkably small. The younger
+individuals were all plump, but none of them corpulent; the women
+inclined the most to this last extreme, and their flesh was, even in the
+youngest individuals, quite loose and without firmness.
+
+Their faces are generally round and full, eyes small and black, nose
+also small and sunk far in between the cheek bones, but not much
+flattened. It is remarkable, that one man T=e-~a, his brother, his
+wife, and two daughters, had good Roman noses, and one of the latter was
+an extremely pretty young woman. Their teeth are short, thick, and
+close, generally regular, and in the young persons almost always white.
+The elderly women were still well furnished in this way, though their
+teeth were usually a good deal worn down, probably by the habit of
+chewing the sealskins for making boots.
+
+In the young of both sexes the complexion is clear and transparent, and
+the skin smooth. The colour of the latter, when divested of oil and
+dirt, is scarcely a shade darker than that of a deep brunette, so that
+the blood is plainly perceptible when it mounts into the cheeks. In the
+old folks, whose faces were much wrinkled, the skin appears of a much
+more dingy hue, the dirt being less easily, and, therefore, less
+frequently dislodged from them.
+
+By whatever peculiarities, however, they may in general be
+distinguished, they are by no means an ill-looking people; and there
+were among them three or four grown-up persons of each sex, who, when
+divested of their skin-dresses, their tattooing, and, above all, of
+their dirt, might have been considered pleasing-looking, if not
+handsome, people in any town in Europe. This remark applies more
+generally to the children also; several of whom had complexions nearly
+as fair as that of Europeans, and whose little bright black eyes gave a
+fine expression to their countenances.
+
+The hair, both of males and females, is black, glossy, and straight. The
+men usually wear it rather long, and allow it to hang about their heads
+in a loose and slovenly manner. The women pride themselves extremely on
+the length and thickness of their hair; and it was not without
+reluctance on their part, and the same on that of their husbands, that
+they were induced to dispose of any of it. Some of the women's hair was
+tolerably fine, but would not, in this respect, bear a comparison with,
+that of an Englishwoman. In both sexes it is full of vermin, which they
+are in the constant habit of picking out and eating; a man and his wife
+will sit for an hour together performing for each other that friendly
+office. The women have a comb, which, however, seems more intended for
+ornament than use, as we seldom or never observed them comb their hair.
+When a woman's husband is ill, she wears her hair loose, and cuts it off
+as a sign of mourning if he dies; a custom agreeing with that of the
+Greenlanders. The men wear the hair on the upper lip and chin from an
+inch to an inch and a half in length, and some were distinguished by a
+little tuft between the chin and lower lip.
+
+In winter every individual, when in the open air, wears two jackets, of
+which the outer one (_C=app~e t=egg~a_) has the hair outside,
+and the inner one (_At-t=e=ega_) next the body. Immediately on
+entering the hut the men take off their outer jacket, beat the snow from
+it, and lay it by. The upper garment of the females, besides being cut
+according to a regular and uniform pattern, and sewed with exceeding
+neatness, which is the case with all the dresses of these people, has
+also the flaps ornamented in a very becoming manner by a neat border of
+deerskin, so arranged as to display alternate breadths of white and dark
+fur. This is, moreover, usually beautified by a handsome fringe,
+consisting of innumerable long narrow threads of leather hanging down
+from it. This ornament is not uncommon also in the outer jackets of the
+men. When seal-hunting, they fasten up the tails of their jackets with a
+button behind.
+
+Their breeches, of which in winter they also wear two pairs, and
+similarly disposed as to the fur, reach below the knee, and fasten with
+a string drawn tight round the waist. Though these have little or no
+waistband, and do not come very high, the depth of the jackets, which
+considerably overlap them, serves very effectually to complete the
+covering of the body.
+
+Their legs and feet are so well clothed, that no degree of cold can well
+affect them. When a man goes on a sealing excursion, he first puts on a
+pair of deerskin boots (_All~ekt=eeg~a_) with the hair inside, and
+reaching to the knee, where they tie. Over these come a pair of shoes of
+the same material; next a pair of dressed sealskin boots, perfectly
+water-tight; and over all a corresponding pair of shoes, tying round the
+instep. These last are made just like the moccasin of a North American
+Indian, being neatly crimped at the toes, and having several serpentine
+pieces of hide sewn across the sole to prevent wearing. The water-tight
+boots and shoes are made of the skin of the small seal (_neitiek_),
+except the soles, which consist of the skin of the large seal (_oguk~e_);
+this last is also used for their fishing-lines. When the men are not
+prepared to encounter wet, they wear an outer boot of deerskin, with the
+hair outside.
+
+The inner boot of the women, unlike that of the men, is loose round the
+leg, coming as high as the knee-joint behind, and in front carried up,
+by a long pointed flap, nearly to the waist, and there fastened to the
+breeches. The upper boot, with the hair as usual outside, corresponds
+with the other in shape, except that it is much more full, especially on
+the outer side, where it bulges out so preposterously as to give the
+women the most awkward, bow-legged appearance imaginable. This
+superfluity of boot has probably originated in the custom, still common
+among the native women of Labrador, of carrying their children in them.
+We were told that these women sometimes put their children there to
+sleep; but the custom must be rare among them, as we never saw it
+practised. These boots, however, form their principal pockets, and
+pretty capacious ones they are. Here, also, as in jackets, considerable
+taste is displayed in the selection of different parts of the deerskin,
+alternate strips of dark and white being placed up and down the sides
+and front by way of ornament. The women also wear a moccasin
+(_Itteeg~eg~a_) over all in the winter time.
+
+To judge by the eagerness with which the women received our beads,
+especially small white ones, as well as any other article of that kind,
+we might suppose them very fond of personal ornament. Yet of all that
+they obtained from us in this way at Winter Island, scarcely anything
+ever made its appearance again during our stay there, except a ring or
+two on the finger, and some bracelets of beads round the wrist; the
+latter of these was probably considered as a charm of some kind or
+other. We found among them, at the time of our first intercourse, a
+number of black and white beads, disposed alternately on a string of
+sinew, and worn in this manner. They would also sometimes hang a small
+bunch of these, or a button or two, in front of their jackets and hair;
+and many of them, in the course of the second winter, covered the whole
+front of their jackets with the beads they received from us.
+
+Among their personal ornaments must be reckoned that mode of marking the
+body called tattooing, which, of the customs not essential to the
+comfort or happiness of mankind, is perhaps the most extensively
+practised throughout the world. Among these people it seems to be an
+ornament of indispensable importance to the women, not one of them being
+without it. The operation is performed about the age of ten, or
+sometimes earlier, and has nothing to do with marriage, except that,
+being considered in the light of a personal charm, it may serve to
+recommend them as wives. The parts of the body thus marked are their
+faces, arms, hands, thighs, and in some few women the breasts, but never
+the feet, as in Greenland. The operation, which, by way of curiosity,
+most of our gentlemen had practised on their arms, is very expeditiously
+managed by passing a needle and thread, the latter covered with
+lampblack and oil, under the epidermis, according to a pattern
+previously marked out upon the skin. Several stitches being thus taken
+at once, the thumb is pressed upon the part while the thread is drawn
+through, by which means the colouring matter is retained, and a
+permanent dye of a blue tinge imparted to the skin. A woman expert at
+this business will perform it very quickly and with great regularity,
+but seldom without drawing blood in many places, and occasioning some
+inflammation. Where so large a portion of the surface of the body is to
+be covered, it must become a painful as well as tedious process,
+especially as, for want of needles, they often use a strip of whalebone
+as a substitute. For those parts where a needle cannot conveniently be
+passed under the skin, they use the method by puncture, which is common
+in other countries, and by which our seamen frequently mark their hands
+and arms. Several of the men were marked on the back part of their
+hands; and with them we understood it to be considered as a _souvenir_
+of some distant deceased person who had performed it.
+
+In their winter habitations, I have before mentioned that the only
+materials employed are snow and ice; the latter being made use of for
+the windows alone. The work is commenced by cutting from a drift of hard
+and compact snow a number of oblong slabs, six or seven inches thick and
+about two feet in length, and laying them edgeways on a level spot, also
+covered with snow, in a circular form, and of a diameter from eight to
+fifteen feet, proportioned to the number of occupants the hut is to
+contain. Upon this as a foundation is laid a second tier of the same
+kind, but with the pieces inclining a little inward, and made to fit
+closely to the lower slabs and to each other by running a knife adroitly
+along the under part and sides. The top of this tier is now prepared for
+the reception of a third, by squaring it off smoothly with a knife, all
+which is dexterously performed by one man standing within the circle and
+receiving the blocks of snow from those employed in cutting them
+without. When the wall has attained a height of four or five feet, it
+leans so much inward as to appear as if about to tumble every moment;
+but the workmen still fearlessly lay their blocks of snow upon it, until
+it is too high any longer to furnish the materials to the builder in
+this manner. Of this he gives notice by cutting a hole close to the
+ground in that part where the door is intended to be, which is near the
+south side, and through this the snow is now passed. Thus they continue
+till they have brought the sides nearly to meet in a perfect and
+well-constructed dome, sometimes nine or ten feet high in the centre;
+and this they take considerable care in finishing, by fitting the last
+block or _keystone_ very nicely in the centre, dropping it into its
+place from the outside, though it is still done by the man within. The
+people outside are in the mean time occupied in throwing up snow with
+the _p~oo=all~er=ay_ or snow shovel, and in stuffing in little
+wedges of snow where holes have been accidentally left.
+
+The builder next proceeds to let himself out by enlarging the proposed
+doorway into the form of a Gothic arch, three feet high and two feet and
+a half wide at the bottom, communicating with which they construct two
+passages, each from ten to twelve feet long and from four to five feet
+in height, the lowest being that next the hut. The roofs of these
+passages are sometimes arched, but more generally made flat by slabs
+laid on horizontally. In first digging the snow for building the hut,
+they take it principally from the part where the passages are to be
+made, which purposely brings the floor of the latter considerably lower
+than that of the hut, but in no part do they dig till the bare ground
+appears.
+
+The work just described completes the walls of a hut, if a single
+apartment only be required; but if, on account of relationship, or from
+any other cause, several families are to reside under one roof, the
+passages are made common to all, and the first apartment (in that case
+made smaller) forms a kind of antechamber, from which you go through an
+arched doorway five feet high into the inhabited apartments. When there
+are three of these, which is generally the case, the whole building,
+with its adjacent passages, forms a tolerably regular cross.
+
+For the admission of light into the huts, a round hole is cut on one
+side of the roof of each apartment, and a circular plate of ice, three
+or four inches thick and two feet in diameter, let into it. The light is
+soft and pleasant, like that transmitted through ground glass, and it is
+quite sufficient for every purpose. When, after some time, these
+edifices become surrounded by drift, it is only by the windows, as I
+have before remarked, that they could be recognised as human
+habitations. It may, perhaps, then be imagined how singular is their
+external appearance at night, when they discover themselves only by a
+circular disk of light transmitted through the windows from the lamps
+within.
+
+The next thing to be done is to raise a bank of snow, two and a half
+feet high, all round the interior of each apartment, except on the side
+next the door. This bank, which is neatly squared off, forms their beds
+and fireplace, the former occupying the sides, and the latter the end
+opposite the door. The passage left open up to the fireplace is between
+three and four feet wide. The beds are arranged by first covering the
+snow with a quantity of small stones, over which are laid their paddles,
+tentpoles, and some blades of whalebone: above these they place a number
+of little pieces of network, made of thin slips of whalebone, and lastly
+a quantity of twigs of birch[008] and of the _andromeda tetragona_.
+Their deerskins, which are very numerous, can now be spread without risk
+of their touching the snow; and such a bed is capable of affording not
+merely comfort, but luxurious repose, in spite of the rigour of the
+climate. The skins thus used as blankets are made of a large size and
+bordered, like some of the jackets, with a fringe of long, narrow slips
+of leather, in which state a blanket is called _k=eipik_.
+
+The fire belonging to each family consists of a single lamp, or shallow
+vessel of _lapis ollaris_, its form being the lesser segment of a
+circle. The wick, composed of dry moss rubbed between the hands till it
+is quite inflammable, is disposed along the edge of the lamp on the
+straight side, and a greater or smaller quantity lighted, according to
+the heat required or the fuel that can be afforded. When the whole
+length of this, which is sometimes above eighteen inches, is kindled, it
+affords a most brilliant and beautiful light, without any perceptible
+smoke or any offensive smell. The lamp is made to supply itself with
+oil, by suspending a long, thin slice of whale, seal, or seahorse
+blubber near the flame, the warmth of which causes the oil to drip into
+the vessel until the whole is extracted. Immediately over the lamp is
+fixed a rude and rickety framework of wood, from which their pots are
+suspended, and serving also to sustain a large hoop of bone, having a
+net stretched tight within it. This contrivance, called _Inn~et~at_,
+is intended for the reception of any wet things, and is usually loaded
+with boots, shoes, and mittens.
+
+The fireplace just described as situated at the upper end of the
+apartment, has always two lamps facing different ways, one for each
+family occupying the corresponding bedplace. There is frequently, also,
+a smaller and less-pretending establishment on the same model--lamp,
+pot, net, and all--in one of the corners next the door; for one
+apartment sometimes contains three families, which are always closely
+related; and no married woman, or even a widow without children, is
+without her separate fireplace.
+
+With all the lamps lighted and the hut full of people and dogs, a
+thermometer placed on the net over the fire indicated a temperature of
+38°; when removed two or three feet from this situation, it fell to 31°;
+and, placed close to the wall, stood at 23°, the temperature of the open
+air at the time being 25° below _zero_. A greater degree of warmth than
+this produces extreme inconvenience by the dropping from the roofs. This
+they endeavour to obviate by applying a little piece of snow to the
+place from which a drop proceeds, and this adhering, is for a short time
+an effectual remedy; but for several weeks in the spring, when the
+weather is too warm for these edifices, and still too cold for tents,
+they suffer much on this account.
+
+The most important, perhaps, of the domestic utensils, next to the lamp
+already described, are the _=o=otk~o~os~e~eks_, or stone
+pots for cooking. These are hollowed out of solid _lapis ollaris_, of an
+oblong form, wider at the top than at the bottom all made in similar
+proportion; though of various sizes corresponding with the dimensions
+of the lamp which burns under it. The pot is suspended by a line of
+sinew at each end to the framework over the fire, and thus becomes so
+black on every side that the original colour of the stone is in no part
+discernible. Many of them were cracked quite across in several places,
+and mended by sewing with sinew or rivets of copper, iron, or lead, so
+as, with the assistance of a lashing and a due proportion of dirt, to
+render them quite watertight.
+
+Besides the ootkooseeks, they have circular and oval vessels of
+whalebone, of various sizes, which, as well as their ivory knives made
+out of a walrus's tusk, are precisely similar to those described on the
+western coast of Baffin's Bay in 1820. They have also a number of
+smaller vessels of skin sewed neatly together; and a large basket of the
+same material, resembling a common sieve in shape, but with the bottom
+close and tight, is to be seen in every apartment. Under every lamp
+stands a sort of "save-all," consisting of a small skin basket for
+catching the oil that falls over. Almost every family was in possession
+of a wooden tray very much resembling those used to carry butcher's meat
+in England, and of nearly the same dimensions, which we understood them
+to have procured by way of Noowook. They had a number of the bowls or
+cups already once or twice alluded to as being made out of the thick
+root of the horn of the musk-ox. Of the smaller part of the same horn
+they also form a convenient drinking-cup, sometimes turning it up
+artificially about one third from the point, so as to be almost parallel
+to the other part, and cutting it full of small notches as a
+convenience in grasping it. These or any other vessels for drinking they
+call _Imm=o=ochiuk_.
+
+Besides the ivory knives, the men were well supplied with a much more
+serviceable kind, made of iron, and called _panna_. The form of this
+knife is very peculiar, being seven inches long, two and a quarter
+broad, quite straight and flat, pointed at the end, and ground equally
+sharp at both edges; this is firmly secured into a handle of bone or
+wood about a foot long, by two or three iron rivets, and has all the
+appearance of a most destructive spearhead, but is nevertheless put to
+no other purpose than that of a very useful knife, which the men are
+scarcely ever without, especially on their sealing excursions. For
+these, and several knives of European form, they are probably indebted
+to an indirect communication with our factories in Hudson's Bay. The
+same may be observed of the best of their women's knives (_ooloo_), on
+one of which, of a larger size than usual, were the names of "Wild and
+Sorby." When of their own manufacture, the only iron part was a little
+narrow slip let into the bone and secured by rivets.
+
+Of the horn of the musk-ox they make also very good spoons, much like
+ours in shape; and I must not omit to mention their marrow spoons
+(_patt=ekniuk_, from _p=att~ek_, marrow), made out of long,
+narrow, hollowed pieces of bone, of which every housewife has a bunch of
+half a dozen or more tied together, and generally attached to her
+needle-case.
+
+For the purpose of obtaining fire, the Esquimaux use two lumps of common
+iron pyrites, from which sparks are struck into a little leathern case
+containing moss well dried and rubbed between the hands. If this tinder
+does not readily catch, a small quantity of the white floss of the seed
+of the ground-willow is laid above the moss. As soon as a spark has
+caught, it is gently blown till the fire has spread an inch around,
+when, the pointed end of a piece of oiled wick being applied, it soon
+bursts into a flame--the whole process having occupied perhaps two or
+three minutes.
+
+In enumerating the articles of their food, we might, perhaps, give a
+list of every animal inhabiting these regions, as they certainly will,
+at times, eat any one of them. Their principal dependance, however, is
+on the reindeer (_t=o=okto~o_); musk-ox (_=o=om~ingm~uk_),
+in the parts where this animal is found; whale (_=agg~aw~ek_);
+walrus (_=ei-~u-~ek_); the large and small seal (_=og~uke_ and
+_n~eitiek_); and two sorts of salmon, the _=ew~ee-t=ar~oke_
+(_salmo alpinus?_) and _ichl=u~ow~oke_. The latter is taken by
+hooks in fresh-water lakes, and the former by spearing in the shoal
+water of certain inlets of the sea. Of all these animals, they can only
+procure in the winter the walrus and small seal upon this part of the
+coast; and these at times, as we have seen, in scarcely sufficient
+quantity for their subsistence.
+
+They certainly, in general, prefer eating their meat cooked, and, while
+they have fuel, they usually boil it; but this is a luxury, and not a
+necessary to them. Oily as the nature of their principal food is, yet
+they commonly take an equal proportion of lean to their fat, and, unless
+very hungry, do not eat it otherwise. Oil they seldom or never use in
+any way as a part of their general diet; and even our butter, of which
+they were fond, they would not eat without a due quantity of
+bread.[009] They do not like salt meat as well as fresh, and never use
+salt themselves; but ship's pork or even a red herring did not come
+amiss to them. Of pea-soup they would eat as much as the sailors could
+afford to give them; and that word was the only one, with the exception
+of our names, which many of them ever learned in English. Among their
+own luxuries must be mentioned a rich soup called k=ay~o, made of
+blood, gravy, and water, and eaten quite hot.
+
+Their only drink is water; and of this, when they can procure it, they
+swallow an inconceivable quantity; so that one of the principal
+occupations of the women during the winter is the thawing of snow in the
+ootkooseeks for this purpose. They cut it into thin slices, and are
+careful to have it clean, on which account they will bring it from a
+distance of fifty yards from the huts. They have an extreme dislike to
+drinking water much above the temperature of 32°. In eating their meals,
+the mistress of the family, having previously cooked the meat, takes a
+large lump out of the pot with her fingers, and hands it to her husband,
+who, placing a part of it between his teeth, cuts it off with a large
+knife in that position, and then passes the knife and meat together to
+his next neighbour. In cutting off a mouthful of meat, the knife passes
+so close to their lips, that nothing but constant habit could ensure
+them from the danger of the most terrible gashes; and it would make an
+English mother shudder to see the manner in which children five or six
+years old are at all times freely trusted with a knife to be used in
+this way.
+
+The length of one of the best of seven canoes belonging to these
+Esquimaux was twenty-five feet, including a narrow-pointed projection,
+three feet long at each end, which turns a little upward from the
+horizontal. The extreme breadth, which is just before the circular hole,
+was twenty-one inches, and the depth ten inches and a half. The plane of
+the upper surface of the canoe, except in the two extreme projections,
+bends downward a little from the centre towards the head and stern,
+giving it the appearance of what in ships is called "broken-backed." The
+gunwales are of fir, in some instances of one piece, three or four
+inches broad in the centre, and tapering gradually away towards the
+ends. The timbers, as well as the fore-and-aft connecting pieces, are of
+the same material, the former being an inch square, and sometimes so
+close together as to require between forty and fifty of them in one
+canoe: which, when thus "in frame," is one of the prettiest things of
+the kind that can be imagined. The skin with which the canoe is covered
+is exclusively that of the _neitiek_, prepared by scraping off the hair
+and fat with an _ooloo_, and stretching it tight on a frame over the
+fire; after which and a good deal of chewing, it is sown on by the women
+with admirable neatness and strength. Their paddles have a blade at each
+end, the whole length being nine feet and a half; the blades are covered
+with a narrow plate of bone round the ends to secure them from
+splitting; they are always made of fir, and generally of several pieces
+scarfed and woolded together.
+
+In summer they rest their canoes upon two small stones raised four feet
+from the ground, and in winter on a similar structure of snow; in one
+case to allow them to dry freely, and in the other to prevent the
+snowdrift from covering, and the dogs from eating them. The difficulty
+of procuring a canoe may be concluded from the circumstance of there
+being at Winter Island twenty men able to manage one, and only seven
+canoes among them. Of these, indeed, only three or four were in good
+repair; the rest being wholly or in part stripped of the skin, of which
+a good deal was occasionally cut off during the winter, to make boots,
+shoes, and mittens for our people. We found no _oomiak_, or woman's
+boat, among them, and understood that they were not in the habit of
+using them, which may in part be accounted for by their passing so much
+of the summer in the interior; they knew very well, however, what they
+were, and made some clumsy models of them for our people.
+
+In the weapons used for killing their game there is considerable
+variety, according to the animal of which they are in pursuit. The most
+simple of these is the _=o=on~ak_, which they use only for killing
+the small seal. It consists of a light staff of wood, four feet in
+length, having at one end the point of a narwhal's horn, from ten to
+eighteen inches long, firmly secured by rivets and wooldings; at the
+other end is a smaller and less effective point of the same kind. To
+prevent losing the ivory part in case of the wood breaking, a stout
+thong runs along the whole length of the wood, each end passing through
+a hole in the ivory, and the bight secured in several places to the
+staff. In this weapon, as far as it has yet been described, there is
+little art or ingenuity displayed; but a considerable degree of both in
+an appendage called _si=atk~o_, consisting of a piece of bone three
+inches long, and having a point of iron at one end, and at the other end
+a small hole or socket to receive the point of the oonak. Through the
+middle of this instrument is secured the _=allek_, or line of thong,
+of which every man has, when sealing, a couple of coils, each from four
+to six fathoms long, hanging at his back.
+
+When a seal is seen, the siatko is taken from a little leathern case, in
+which, when out of use, it is carefully enclosed, and attached by its
+socket to the point of the spear; in this situation it is retained by
+bringing the allek tight down and fastening it round the middle of the
+staff by what seamen call a "slippery-hitch," which may instantly be
+disengaged by pulling on the other end of the line. As soon as the spear
+has been thrown and the animal struck, the siatko is thus purposely
+separated; and being slung by the middle, now performs very effectually
+the important office of a barb, by turning at right angles to the
+direction in which it has entered the orifice. This device is in its
+principle superior even to our barb; for the instant any strain is put
+upon the line, it acts like a toggle, opposing its length to a wound
+only as wide as its own breadth.
+
+The _=akl~eak_ or _akl=e=eg~a_, used for the large seal, has a
+blown bladder attached to the staff, for the purpose of impeding the
+animal in the water.
+
+The third and largest weapon is that called _katteelik_, with which the
+walrus and whale are attacked. The staff of this is not longer, but much
+stouter than that of the others, especially towards the middle, where
+there is a small shoulder of ivory securely lashed to it for the thumb
+to rest against, and thus to give additional force in throwing or
+thrusting the spear. The ivory point of this weapon is made to fit into
+a socket at the end of the staff, where it is secured by double thongs
+in such a manner as steadily to retain its position when a strain is put
+upon it in the direction of its length, but immediately disengaging
+itself with a sort of spring when any lateral strain endangers its
+breaking. The siatko is always used with this spear; and to the end of
+the allek, when the animal pursued is in open water, they attach a whole
+sealskin (_h~ow-w=ut-t~a_), inflated like a bladder, for the
+purpose of tiring it out in its progress through the water.
+
+They have a spear called _~ippoo_ for killing deer in the water. They
+describe it as having a light staff and a small head of iron; but they
+had none of these so fitted in the winter. The _n=ug~uee_, or dart
+for birds, has, besides its two ivory prongs at the end of the staff,
+three divergent ones in the middle of it, with several small double
+barbs upon them turning inward. The spear for salmon or other fish,
+called _k=ak~eew~ei_, consists of a wooden staff, with a spike of
+bone or ivory, three inches long, secured at one end. On each side of
+the spike is a curved prong, much like that of a pitchfork, but made of
+flexible horn, which gives them a spring, and having a barb on the inner
+part of the point turning downward. Their fishhooks (_kakli=okio_)
+consist only of a nail crooked and pointed at one end, the other being
+let into a piece of ivory to which the line is attached. A piece of
+deer's horn or curved bone only a foot long is used as a rod, and
+completes this very rude part of their fishing-gear.
+
+Of their mode of killing seals in the winter I have already spoken in
+the course of the foregoing narrative, as far as we were enabled to make
+ourselves acquainted with it. In their summer exploits on the water, the
+killing of the whale is the most arduous undertaking which they have to
+perform; and one cannot sufficiently admire the courage and activity
+which, with gear apparently so inadequate, it must require to accomplish
+this business. Okotook, who was at the killing of two whales in the
+course of a single summer, and who described the whole of it quite _con
+amore_, mentioned the names of thirteen men who, each in his canoe, had
+assisted on one of these occasions. When a fish is seen lying on the
+water, they cautiously paddle up astern of him, till a single canoe,
+preceding the rest, comes close to him on one quarter, so as to enable
+the man to drive the _katteelik_ into the animal with all the force of
+both arms. This having the _siatko_, a long _allek_, and the inflated
+sealskin attached to it, the whale immediately dives, taking the whole
+apparatus with him except the katteelik, which, being disengaged in the
+manner before described, floats to the surface, and is picked up by its
+owner. The animal reappearing after some time, all the canoes again
+paddle towards him, some warning being given by the sealskin buoy
+floating on the surface. Each man being furnished like the first, they
+repeat the blows as often as they find opportunity, till perhaps, every
+line has been thus employed. After pursuing him in this manner sometimes
+for half a day, he is at length so wearied by the resistance of the
+buoys, and exhausted by the loss of blood, as to be obliged to rise more
+and more often to the surface, when, by frequent wounds with their
+spears, they succeed in killing him, and tow their prize in triumph to
+the shore.
+
+In attacking the walrus in the water they use the same gear, but much
+more caution than with the whale, always throwing the _katteelik_ from
+some distance, lest the animal should attack the canoe and demolish it
+with his tusks. The walrus is, in fact, the only animal with which they
+use any caution of this kind. They like the flesh better than that of
+the seal; but venison is preferred by them to either of these, and,
+indeed, to any other kind of meat.
+
+At Winter Island they carefully preserved the heads of all the animals
+killed during the winter, except two or three of the walrus, which we
+obtained with great difficulty. As the blood of the animals which they
+kill is all used as food of the most luxurious kind, they are careful to
+avoid losing any portion of it; for this purpose they carry with
+them on their excursions a little instrument of ivory called
+_t~oop=o=ot~a_, in form and size exactly resembling a "twenty-penny"
+nail, with which they stop up the orifice made by the spear, by
+thrusting it through the skin by the sides of the wound, and securing
+it with a twist.
+
+One of the best of their bows was made of a single piece of fir, four
+feet eight inches in length, flat on the inner side and rounded on the
+outer, being five inches in girth about the middle, where, however, it
+is strengthened on the concave side, when strung, by a piece of bone ten
+inches long, firmly secured by treenails of the same material. At each
+end of the bow is a knob of bone, or sometimes of wood covered with
+leather, with a deep notch for the reception of the string. The only
+wood which they can procure, not possessing sufficient elasticity
+combined with strength, they ingeniously remedy the defect by securing
+to the back of the bow, and to the knobs at each end, a quantity of
+small lines, each composed of a plat or "sinnet" of three sinews. The
+number of lines thus reaching from end to end is generally about thirty;
+but, besides these, several others are fastened with hitches round the
+bow, in pairs, commencing eight inches from one end, and again united at
+the same distance from the other, making the number of strings in the
+middle of the bow sometimes amount to sixty. These being put on with the
+bow bent somewhat the contrary way, produce a spring so strong as to
+require considerable force as well as knack in stringing it, and giving
+the requisite velocity to the arrow. The bow is completed by a woolding
+round the middle, and a wedge or two, here and there, driven in to
+tighten it. A bow in one piece is, however, very rare; they generally
+consist of from two to five pieces of bone of unequal lengths, secured
+together by rivets and treenails.
+
+The arrows vary in length from twenty to thirty inches, according to the
+materials that can be commanded. About two thirds of the whole length
+is of fir rounded, and the rest of bone let by a socket into the wood,
+and having a head of thin iron, or more commonly of slate, secured into
+a slit by two treenails. Towards the opposite end of the arrow are two
+feathers, generally of the spotted oval, not very neatly lashed on. The
+bowstring consists of from twelve to eighteen small lines of three-sinew
+sinnet, having a loose twist, and with a separate becket of the same
+size for going over the knobs at the end of the bow.
+
+We tried their skill in archery by getting them to shoot at a mark for a
+prize, though with bows in extremely bad order on account of the frost,
+and their hands very cold. The mark was two of their spears stuck
+upright in the snow, their breadth being three inches and a half. At
+twenty yards they struck this every time; at thirty, sent the arrows
+always within an inch or two of it; and at forty or fifty yards, I
+should think, would generally hit a fawn if the animal stood still.
+These weapons are perhaps sufficient to inflict a mortal wound at
+something more than that distance, for which, however, a strong arm
+would be required. The animals which they kill with the bow and arrow
+for their subsistence are principally the musk-ox and deer, and less
+frequently the bear, wolf, fox, hare, and some of the smaller animals.
+
+The reindeer are killed by the Esquimaux in great abundance in the
+summer season, partly by driving them from islands or narrow necks of
+land into the sea, and then spearing them from their canoes; and partly
+by shooting them from behind heaps of stones raised for the purpose of
+watching them, and imitating their peculiar bellow or grunt. Among the
+various artifices which they employ for this purpose, one of the most
+ingenious consists in two men walking directly _from_ the deer they wish
+to kill, which almost always follows them. As soon as they arrive at a
+large stone, one of the men hides behind it with his bow, while the
+other continuing to walk on, soon leads the deer within range of his
+companion's arrows. They are also very careful to keep to leeward of the
+deer, and will scarcely go out after them at all when the weather is
+calm. For several weeks in the course of the summer, some of these
+people almost entirely give up their fishery on the coast, retiring to
+the banks of lakes several miles in the interior, which they represent
+as large and deep, and abounding with salmon, while the pasture near
+them affords good feeding to numerous herds of deer.
+
+The distance to which these people extend their inland migrations, and
+the extent of coast of which they possess a personal knowledge, are
+really very considerable. A great number of them, who were born at
+Amitioke and Igloolik, had been to _Noowook_, or nearly as far south as
+Chesterfield Inlet, which is about the _ne plus ultra_ of their united
+knowledge in a southerly direction. Okotook and a few others of the
+Winter Island tribe had extended their peregrinations a considerable
+distance to the northward, over the large insular piece of land to which
+we have applied the name of Cockburn Island; which they described as
+high land, and the resort of numerous reindeer. By the information
+afterward obtained when nearer the spot, we had reason to suppose this
+land must reach beyond the seventy-second degree of latitude in a
+northerly direction; so that these people possess a personal knowledge
+of the Continent of America and its adjacent islands, from that parallel
+to Chesterfield Inlet in 63-3/4°, being a distance of more than five
+hundred miles reckoned in a direct line, besides the numerous turnings
+and windings of the coast along which they are accustomed to travel.
+Ewerat and some others had been a considerable distance up the Wager
+River; but no record had been preserved among them of Captain
+Middleton's visit to that inlet about the middle of the last century.
+
+Of the Indians they know enough by tradition to hold them in
+considerable dread, on account of their cruel and ferocious manners.
+When, on one occasion, we related the circumstances of the inhuman
+massacre described by Hearne, they crowded round us in the hut,
+listening with mute and almost breathless attention; and the mothers
+drew their children closer to them, as if to guard them from the
+dreadful catastrophe.
+
+The Esquimaux take some animals in traps, and by a very ingenious
+contrivance of this kind they caught two wolves at Winter Island. It
+consists of a small house built of ice, at one end of which a door, made
+of the same plentiful material, is fitted to slide up and down in a
+groove; to the upper part of this a line is attached, and, passing over
+the roof, is let down into the trap at the inner end, and there held by
+slipping an eye in the end of it over a peg of ice left for the purpose.
+Over the peg, however, is previously placed a loose grummet, to which
+the bait is fastened, and a false roof placed over all to hide the line.
+The moment the animal drags at the bait, the grummet slips off the peg,
+bringing with it the line that held up the door, and this, falling down,
+closes the trap and secures him,
+
+A trap for birds is formed by building a house of snow just large enough
+to contain one person, who closes himself up in it. On the top is left a
+small aperture, through which the man thrusts one of his hands to secure
+the bird the moment he alights to take away a bait of meat laid beside
+it. It is principally gulls that are taken thus; and the boys sometimes
+amuse themselves in this manner. A trap in which they catch foxes has
+been mentioned in another place.
+
+The sledges belonging to these Esquimaux were in general large and
+heavily constructed, being more adapted to the carriage of considerable
+burdens than to very quick travelling. They varied in size, being from
+six feet and a half to nine feet in length, and from eighteen inches to
+two feet in breadth. Some of those at Igloolik were of larger
+dimensions, one being eleven feet in length, and weighing two hundred
+and sixty-eight pounds, and two or three others above two hundred
+pounds. The runners are sometimes made of the right and left jaw-bones
+of a whale; but more commonly of several pieces of wood or bone scarfed
+and lashed together, the interstices being filled, to make all smooth
+and firm, with moss stuffed in tight, and then cemented by throwing
+water to freeze upon it. The lower part of the runner is shod with a
+plate of harder bone, coated with fresh-water ice to make it run
+smoothly, and to avoid wear and tear, both which purposes are thus
+completely answered. This coating is performed with a mixture of snow
+and fresh water about half an inch thick, rubbed over it till it is
+quite smooth and hard upon the surface, and this is usually done a few
+minutes before setting out on a journey. When the ice is only in part
+worn off, it is renewed by taking some water into the mouth, and
+spirting it over the former coating. We noticed a sledge which was
+extremely curious, on account of one of the runners and a part of the
+other being constructed without the assistance of wood, iron, or bone of
+any kind. For this purpose, a number of sealskins being rolled up and
+disposed into the requisite shape, an outer coat of the same kind was
+sewed tightly round them; this formed the upper half of the runner, the
+lower part of which consisted entirely of moss moulded while wet into
+the proper form, and being left to freeze, adhering firmly together and
+to the skins. The usual shoeing of smooth ice beneath completed the
+runner, which, for more than six months out of twelve, in this climate,
+was nearly as hard as any wood; and for winter use, no way inferior to
+those constructed of more durable materials. The cross-pieces which form
+the bottom of the sledges are made of bone, wood, or anything they can
+muster. Over these is generally laid a sealskin as a flooring, and in
+the summer time a pair of deer's horns are attached to the sledge as a
+back, which in the winter are removed, to enable them, when stopping, to
+turn the sledge up, so as to prevent the dogs running away with it. The
+whole is secured by lashings of thong, giving it a degree of strength
+combined with flexibility which perhaps no other mode of fastening could
+effect.
+
+The colour of the dogs varies from a white, through brindled, to black
+and white, or almost entirely black. Their hair in the winter is from
+three to four inches long; but, besides this, nature furnishes them,
+during this rigorous season, with a thick under coating of close, soft
+wool, which they begin to cast in the spring. While thus provided, they
+are able to withstand the most inclement weather without suffering from
+the cold; and, at whatever temperature the atmosphere may be, they
+require nothing but a shelter from the wind to make them comfortable,
+and even this they do not always obtain. They are also wonderfully
+enabled to endure the cold even on those parts of the body which are not
+thus protected; for we have seen a young puppy sleeping, with its bare
+paw laid on an ice-anchor, with the thermometer at -30°, which, with one
+of our dogs, would have produced immediate and intense pain, if not
+subsequent mortification. They never bark, but have a long, melancholy
+howl like that of the wolf, and this they will sometimes perform in
+concert for a minute or two together. They are, besides, always snarling
+and fighting among one another, by which several of them are generally
+lame. When much caressed and well fed, they become quite familiar and
+domestic: but this mode of treatment does not improve their qualities as
+animals of draught. Being desirous of ascertaining whether these dogs
+are wolves in a state of domestication, a question which we understood
+to have been the subject of some speculation, Mr. Skeoch, at my request,
+made a skeleton of each, when the number of all the vertebrae was found
+to be the same in both,[010] and to correspond with the well-known
+anatomy of the wolf.
+
+When drawing a sledge, the dogs have a simple harness (_annoo_) of deer
+or seal skin going round the neck by one bight, and another for each of
+the fore legs, with a single thong leading over the back and attached to
+the sledge as a trace. Though they appear at first sight to be huddled
+together without regard to regularity, there is, in fact, considerable
+attention paid to their arrangement, particularly in the selection of a
+dog of peculiar spirit and sagacity, which is allowed, by a longer
+trace, to precede the rest as leader, and to which, in turning to the
+right or left, the driver usually addresses himself. This choice is made
+without regard to age or sex, and the rest of the dogs take precedence
+according to their training or sagacity, the least effective being put
+nearest the sledge. The leader is usually from eighteen to twenty feet
+from the fore part of the sledge, and the hindermost dog about half that
+distance, so that when ten or twelve are running together, several are
+nearly abreast of each other. The driver sits quite low on the fore part
+of the sledge, with his feet overhanging the snow on one side, and
+having in his hand a whip, of which the handle, made either of wood,
+bone, or whalebone, is eighteen inches, and the lash more than as many
+feet in length. The part of the thong next the handle is platted a
+little way down to stiffen it and give it a spring, on which much of its
+use depends; and that which composes the lash is chewed, by the women to
+make it flexible in frosty weather. The men acquire from their youth
+considerable expertness in the use of this whip, the lash of which is
+left to trail along the ground by the side of the sledge, and with which
+they can inflict a very severe blow on any dog at pleasure. Though the
+dogs are kept in training entirely by fear of the whip, and indeed
+without it would soon have their own way, its immediate effect is always
+detrimental to the draught of the sledge; for not only does the
+individual that is struck draw back and slacken his trace, but generally
+turns upon his next neighbour, and this, passing on to the next,
+occasions a general divergency, accompanied by the usual yelping and
+showing of teeth. The dogs then come together again by degrees, and the
+draught of the sledge is accelerated; but even at the best of times, by
+this rude mode of draught, the traces of one third of the dogs form an
+angle of thirty or forty degrees on each side of the direction in which
+the sledge is advancing. Another great inconvenience attending the
+Esquimaux method of putting the dogs to, besides that of not employing
+their strength to the best advantage, is the constant entanglement of
+the traces by the dogs repeatedly doubling under from side to side to
+avoid the whip, so that, after running a few miles, the traces always
+require to be taken off and cleared.
+
+In directing the sledge the whip acts no very essential part, the driver
+for this purpose using certain words, as the carters do with us, to make
+the dogs turn more to the right or left. To these a good leader attends
+with admirable precision, especially if his own name be repeated at the
+same time, looking behind over his shoulder with great earnestness, as
+if listening to the directions of the driver. On a beaten track, or
+even where a single foot or sledge mark is occasionally discernible,
+there is not the slightest trouble in guiding the dogs; for even in the
+darkest night and in the heaviest snowdrift, there is little or no
+danger of their losing the road, the leader keeping his nose near the
+ground, and directing the rest with wonderful sagacity. Where, however,
+there is no beaten track, the best driver among them makes a terribly
+circuitous course, as all the Esquimaux roads plainly show; these
+generally occupying an extent of six miles, when with a horse and sledge
+the journey would scarcely have amounted to five. On rough ground, as
+among hummocks of ice, the sledge would be frequently overturned or
+altogether stopped if the driver did not repeatedly get off, and, by
+lifting or drawing it to one side, steer it clear of those accidents. At
+all times, indeed, except on a smooth and well-made road, he is pretty
+constantly employed thus with his feet, which, together with his
+never-ceasing vociferations and frequent use of the whip, renders the
+driving of one of these vehicles by no means a pleasant or easy task.
+When the driver wishes to stop the sledge, he calls out "Wo, woa,"
+exactly as our carters do; but the attention paid to his command depends
+altogether on his ability to enforce it. If the weight is small and the
+journey homeward, the dogs are not to be thus delayed; the driver is
+therefore obliged to dig his heels into the snow to obstruct their
+progress; and, having thus succeeded in stopping them, he stands up with
+one leg before the foremost crosspiece of the sledge, till, by means of
+laying the whip gently over each dog's head, he has made them all lie
+down. He then takes care not to quit his position; so that, should the
+dogs set off, he is thrown upon the sledge, instead of being left behind
+by them.
+
+With heavy loads the dogs draw best with one of their own people,
+especially a woman, walking a little way ahead; and in this case they
+are sometimes enticed to mend their pace by holding a mitten to the
+mouth, and then making the motion of cutting it with a knife, and
+throwing it on the snow, when the dogs, mistaking it for meat, hasten
+forward to pick it up. The women also entice them from the huts in a
+similar manner. The rate at which they travel depends, of course, on the
+weight they have to draw and the road on which their journey is
+performed. When the latter is level, and very hard and smooth,
+constituting what in other parts of North America is called "good
+sleighing," six or seven dogs will draw from eight to ten hundred
+weight, at the rate of seven or eight miles an hour for several hours
+together, and will easily, under those circumstances, perform a journey
+of fifty or sixty miles a day; on untrodden snow, five-and-twenty or
+thirty miles would be a good day's journey. The same number of well-fed
+dogs, with a weight of only five or six hundred pounds (that of the
+sledge included), are almost unmanageable, and will, on a smooth road,
+run any way they please at the rate of ten miles an hour. The work
+performed by a greater number of dogs is, however, by no means in
+proportion to this; owing to the imperfect mode already described of
+employing the strength of these sturdy creatures, and to the more
+frequent snarling and fighting occasioned by an increase of numbers.
+
+In the summer, when the absence of snow precludes the use of sledges,
+the dogs are still made useful on journeys and hunting excursions, by
+being employed to carry burdens in a kind of saddle-bags laid across
+their shoulders. A stout dog thus accoutred will accompany his master,
+laden with a weight of about twenty or twenty-five pounds.
+
+The scent of the Esquimaux dogs is excellent; and this property is
+turned to account by their masters in finding the seal-holes, which
+these invaluable animals will discover entirely by the smell at a very
+great distance. The track of a single deer upon the snow will in like
+manner set them off at a full gallop when travelling, at least a quarter
+of a mile before they arrive at it, when they are with difficulty made
+to turn in any other direction; and the Esquimaux are accustomed to set
+them after those animals to hunt them down when already wounded with an
+arrow. In killing bears the dogs act a very essential part; and two or
+three of them, when led on by a man, will eagerly attack one of those
+ferocious creatures. An Esquimaux seldom uses any other weapon than his
+spear and _panna_ in this encounter, for which the readiness of the dogs
+may be implied from the circumstance of the word "nen-nook" (bear) being
+often used to encourage them when running in a sledge. Indeed, the only
+animal which they are not eager to chase is the wolf, of which the
+greater part of them seem to have an instinctive dread, giving notice at
+night of their approach to the huts by a loud and continued howl. There
+is not one dog in twenty among them that will voluntarily, or, indeed,
+without a great deal of beating, take the water, if they think it is out
+of their depth, and the few that would do so were spoken of as
+extraordinary exceptions.
+
+The Esquimaux in general treat their dogs much as an unfeeling master
+does his slaves; that is, they take just as much care of them as their
+own interest is supposed to require. The bitches with young are in the
+winter allowed to occupy a part of their own beds, where they are
+carefully attended and fed by the women, who will even supply the young
+ones with meat and water from their mouths as they do their own
+children, and not unfrequently also carry them in their hoods to take
+care of them. It is probably on this account that the dogs are always so
+much attached to the women, who can at any time catch them or entice
+them from the huts when the men fail. Two females that were with young
+on board the Fury in the month of February, brought forth six and seven
+at a litter, and the former number were all females. Their feeding,
+which, both in summer and winter, principally consists of k=a~ow, or
+the skin and part of the blubber of the walrus, is during the latter
+season very precarious, their masters having then but little to spare.
+They therefore become extremely thin at that time of the year, and would
+scarcely be recognised as the same animals as when regularly fed in the
+summer. No wonder, therefore, that they will eat almost anything,
+however tough or filthy, and that neither whipping nor shouting will
+prevent their turning out of the road, even when going at full speed, to
+pick up whatever they espy. When at the huts they are constantly
+creeping in to pilfer what they can, and half the time of the people
+sitting there is occupied in vociferating their names, and driving them
+by most unmerciful blows out of the apartments. The dogs have no water
+to drink during the winter, but lick up some clean snow occasionally as
+a substitute; nor, indeed, if water be offered them, do they care about
+it, unless it happens to be oily. They take great pleasure in rolling in
+clean snow, especially after or during a journey, or when they have been
+confined in a house during the night. Notwithstanding the rough
+treatment which they receive from their masters, their attachment to
+them is very great, and this they display after a short absence by
+jumping up and licking their faces all over with extreme delight. The
+Esquimaux, however, never caress them, and, indeed, scarcely ever take
+any notice of them but when they offend, and they are not then sparing
+in their blows. The dogs have all names, to which they attend with
+readiness, whether drawing in a sledge or otherwise. Their names are
+frequently the same as those of the people, and in some instances are
+given after the relations of their masters, which seems to be considered
+an act of kindness among them. Upon the whole, notwithstanding the
+services performed by these valuable creatures, I am of opinion that art
+cannot well have done less towards making them useful, and that the same
+means in almost any other hands would be employed to greater advantage.
+
+In the disposition of these people, there was, of course, among so many
+individuals, considerable variety as to the minute points; but in the
+general features of their character, which with them are not subject to
+the changes produced by foreign intercourse, one description will nearly
+apply to all.
+
+The virtue which, as respected ourselves, we could most have wished them
+to possess, is honesty; and the impression derived from the early part
+of our intercourse was certainly in this respect a favourable one. A
+great many instances occurred, some of which have been related where
+they appeared even scrupulous in returning articles that did not belong
+to them; and this, too, when detection of a theft, or, at least, of the
+offender, would have been next to impossible. As they grew more familiar
+with us, and the temptations became stronger, they gradually relaxed in
+their honesty, and petty thefts were from time to time committed by
+several individuals, both male and female, among them.
+
+The bustle which any search for stolen goods occasioned at the huts was
+sufficient proof of their understanding the estimation in which the
+crime was held by us. Until the affair was cleared up, they would affect
+great readiness to show every article which they had got from the ships,
+repeating the name of the donor with great warmth, as if offended at our
+suspicions, yet with a half smile on their countenance at our supposed
+credulity in believing them. There was, indeed, at all times, some,
+trick, and cunning in this show of openness and candour; and they would
+at times bring back some very trifling article that had been given them,
+tendering it as a sort of expiation for the theft of another much more
+valuable. When a search was making, they would invent all sorts of lies
+to screen themselves, not caring on whom besides the imputation fell;
+and more than once they directed our people to the apartments of others
+who were innocent of the event in question. If they really knew the
+offender, they were generally ready enough to inform against him, and
+this with an air of affected secrecy and mysterious importance; and, as
+if the dishonesty of another constituted a virtue in themselves, they
+would repeat this information frequently, perhaps for a month afterward,
+setting up their neighbour's offence as a foil to their own pretended
+honesty.
+
+In appreciating the character of these people for honesty, however, we
+must not fail to make allowance for the degree of temptation to which
+they were daily exposed, amid the boundless stores of wealth which our
+ships appeared to them to furnish. To draw a parallel case, we must
+suppose an European of the lower class suffered to roam about amid
+hoards of gold and silver; for nothing less valuable can be justly
+compared with the wood and iron that everywhere presented themselves to
+their view on board the ships. The European and the Esquimaux, who, in
+cases so similar, both resist the temptation to stealing, must be
+considered pretty nearly on a par in the scale of honesty; and, judging
+in this manner, the balance might possibly be found in favour of the
+latter, when compared with any similar number of Europeans taken at
+random from the lower class.
+
+In what has been hitherto said, regard has been had only to their
+dealings with _us_. In their transactions among themselves, there is no
+doubt that, except in one or two privileged cases, such as that of
+destitute widows, the strictest honesty prevails, and that, as regards
+the good of their own community, they are generally honest people. We
+have, in numberless instances, sent presents by one to another, and
+invariably found that they had been faithfully delivered. The manner in
+which their various implements are frequently left outside their huts is
+a proof, indeed, that robbery is scarcely known among them.
+
+In the barter of their various commodities, their dealings with us were
+fair and upright, though latterly they were by no means backward nor
+inexpert in driving a bargain. The absurd and childish exchanges which
+they at first made with our people induced them subsequently to complain
+that the Kabloonas had stolen their things, though the profit had
+eventually been a hundred-fold in their favour. Many such complaints
+were made, when the only fault in the purchaser had been excessive
+liberality, and frequently, also, as a retort, by way of warding off the
+imputation of some dishonesty of their own. A trick not uncommon with
+the women was to endeavour to excite the commiseration, and to tax the
+bounty of one person, by relating some cruel theft of this kind that
+had, as they said, been practised upon them by another. One day, after I
+had bought a knife of Togolat, she told Captain Lyon, in a most piteous
+tone, that _Parree_ had stolen her last _ooloo_, that she did not know
+what to do without one, and at length, coming to the point, begged him
+to give her one. Presently after this, her husband coming in and asking
+for something to eat, she handed him some meat, accompanied by a very
+fine ooloo. Her son, being thus reminded of eating, made the same
+request, upon which a second knife was produced, and immediately after a
+third of the same kind for herself. Captain Lyon, having amused himself
+in watching these proceedings, which so well confirmed the truth of the
+proverb, that certain people ought to have good memories, now took the
+knives, one by one, out of their hands, and, holding them up to Togolat,
+asked her if Parree had not stolen her last ooloo. A hearty laugh all
+round was the only notice taken by them of this direct detection of the
+deceit.
+
+The confidence which they really placed in us was daily and hourly
+evinced by their leaving their fishing gear stuck in the snow all round
+the ships; and not a single instance occurred, to my knowledge, of any
+theft committed on their property. The licking of the articles received
+from us was not so common with them as with Esquimaux in general, and
+this practice was latterly almost entirely left off by them.
+
+Among the unfavourable traits in their character must be reckoned an
+extreme disposition to envy, which displayed itself on various occasions
+during our intercourse with them. If we had made any presents in one
+hut, the inmates of the next would not fail to tell us of it,
+accompanying their remarks with some satirical observations, too
+unequivocally expressed to be mistaken, and generally by some stroke of
+irony directed against the favoured person. If any individual with whom
+we had been intimate happened to be implicated in a theft, the
+circumstance became a subject of satisfaction too manifest to be
+repressed, and we were told of it with expressions of the most
+triumphant exultation on every occasion. It was, indeed, curious, though
+ridiculous, to observe that, even among these simple people, and even in
+this obscure corner of the globe, that little gossip and scandal so
+commonly practised in small societies among us were very frequently
+displayed. This was especially the case with the women, of whom it was
+not uncommon to see a group sitting in a hut for hours together, each
+relating her _quota_ of information, now and then mimicking the persons
+of whom they spoke, and interlarding their stories with jokes evidently
+at the expense of their absent neighbours, though to their own infinite
+amusement.
+
+I have already, in the course of the foregoing narrative, hinted at the
+want of gratitude evinced by these people in their transactions with us.
+Some exceptions, for they were only exceptions, and rare ones, to this
+rule, have been mentioned as they occurred; but in general, however
+considerable the benefit conferred, it was forgotten in a day; and this
+forgetfulness was not unfrequently aggravated by their giving out that
+their benefactor had been so shabby as to make them no present at all.
+Even those individuals who, either from good behaviour or superior
+intelligence, had been most noticed by us, and particularly such as had
+slept on board the ships, and whether in health or sickness had received
+the most friendly treatment from everybody, were in general just as
+indifferent as the rest; and I do not believe that any one among them
+would have gone half a mile out of his road, or have sacrificed the most
+trivial self-gratification to serve us. Okotook and Iligliuk, whom I had
+most loaded with presents, and who had never offered me a single free
+gift in return, put into my hand, at the time of their first removal
+from Winter Island, a dirty, crooked model of a spear, so shabbily
+constructed that it had probably been already refused as an article of
+barter by many of the ship's company. On my accepting this, from an
+unwillingness to affront them, they were uneasy and dissatisfied till I
+had given them something in return, though their hands were full of the
+presents which I had just made them. Selfishness is, in fact, almost
+without exception, their universal characteristic, and the mainspring of
+all their actions, and that, too, of a kind the most direct and
+unamiable that can well be imagined.
+
+In the few opportunities we had of putting their hospitality to the
+test, we had every reason to be pleased with them. Both as to food and
+accommodation, the best they had were always at our service; and their
+attention, both in kind and degree, was everything that hospitality and
+even good-breeding could dictate. The kindly offices of drying and
+mending our clothes, cooking our provision, and thawing snow for our
+drink, were performed by the women with an obliging cheerfulness which
+we shall not easily forget, and which commanded its due share of our
+admiration and esteem. While thus their guest, I have passed an evening
+not only with comfort, but with extreme gratification; for, with the
+women working and singing, their husbands quietly mending their lines,
+the children playing before the door, and the pot boiling over the blaze
+of a cheerful lamp, one might well forget for the time that an Esquimaux
+hut was the scene of this domestic comfort and tranquillity; and I can
+safely affirm with Cartwright,[011] that, while thus lodged beneath
+their roof, I know no people whom I would more confidently trust, as
+respects either my person or my property, than the Esquimaux.
+
+The estimation in which women are held among these people is, I think,
+somewhat greater than is usual in savage life. In their general
+employments they are by no means the drudges that the wives of the
+Greenlander's are said to be; being occupied only in those cares which
+may properly be called domestic, and, as such, are considered the
+peculiar business of the women among the lower classes in civilized
+society. The wife of one of these people, for instance, makes and
+attends the fire, cooks the victuals, looks after the children, and is
+sempstress to her whole family; while her husband is labouring abroad
+for their subsistence. In this respect it is not even necessary to
+except their task Of cutting up the small seals, which is, in truth, one
+of the greatest luxuries and privileges they enjoy; and, even if it were
+esteemed a labour, it could scarcely be considered equivalent to that of
+the women in many of our own fishing-towns, where the men's business is
+at an end the moment the boat touches the beach. The most laborious of
+their tasks occur, perhaps, in making their various journeys, when all
+their goods and chattels are to be removed at once, and when each
+individual must undoubtedly perform a full share of the general labour.
+The women are, however, good walkers and not easily fatigued; for we
+have several times known a young woman of two-and-twenty, with a child
+in her hood, walk twelve miles to the ships and back again the same day,
+for the sake of a little bread-dust and a tin canister. When stationary
+in the winter, they have really almost a sinecure of it, sitting quietly
+in their huts, and having little or no employment for the greater part
+of the day. In short, there are few, if any people, in this state of
+society among whom the women are so well off. They always sit upon the
+beds with their legs doubled under them, and are uneasy in the posture
+usual with us. The men sometimes sit as we do, but more generally with
+their legs crossed before them.
+
+The women do not appear to be, in general, very prolific. Illumea indeed
+had borne seven children, but no second instance of an equal number in
+one family afterward came to our knowledge; three or four is about the
+usual number. They are, according to their own account, in the habit of
+suckling their children to the age of three years; but we have seen a
+child of five occasionally at the breast, though they are dismissed from
+the mother's hood at about the former age. It is not uncommon to see one
+woman suckling the child of another, while the latter happens to be
+employed in her other domestic occupations. They are in the habit, also,
+of feeding their younger children from their own mouths, softening the
+food by mastication, and then turning their heads round so that the
+infant in the hood may put its lips to theirs. The chill is taken from
+water for them in the same manner, and some fathers are very fond of
+taking their children on their knees and thus feeding them. The women
+are more desirous of having sons than daughters, as on the former must
+principally depend their support in old age.
+
+Twelve of the men had each two wives, and some of the younger ones had
+also two betrothed; two instances occurred of the father and son being
+married to sisters. The custom of betrothing children in their infancy
+is commonly practised here, in which respect these people differ from
+the natives of Greenland, where it is comparatively rare. A daughter of
+Arnaneelia, between two and three years old, had long been thus
+contracted to Okotook's son, a hero of six or seven, and the latter used
+to run about the hut calling his intended by the familiar appellation of
+_N~o~oll=e-~a_ (wife), to the great amusement of the parents.
+When a man has two wives there is generally a difference of five or six
+years in their ages. The senior takes her station next the principal
+fire, which comes entirely under her management; and she is certainly
+considered in some respects superior to the other, though they usually
+live together in the utmost harmony. The men sometimes repudiate their
+wives without ceremony, in case of real or supposed bad behaviour as in
+Greenland, but this does not often occur. There was a considerable
+disparity of age between many of the men and their wives, the husband
+being sometimes the oldest by twenty years or more, and this also when
+he had never married any former wife. We knew no instance in which the
+number of a man's wives exceeded two, and, indeed, we had every reason
+to believe that the practice is never admitted among them. We met with a
+singular instance of two men having exchanged wives, in consequence
+merely of one of the latter being pregnant at the time when her husband
+was about to undertake a long journey.
+
+The authority of the husband seems to be sufficiently absolute,
+depending, nevertheless, in great measure on the dispositions of the
+respective parties. Iligliuk was one of those women who seem formed to
+manage their husbands; and we one day saw her take Okotook to task in a
+very masterly style, for having bartered away a good jacket for an old
+useless pistol, without powder or shot. He attempted at first to bluster
+in his turn, and with most women would probably have gained his point.
+But with Iligliuk this would not do; she saw at once the absurdity of
+his bargain, and insisted on his immediately cancelling it, which was
+accordingly done, and no more said about it. In general, indeed, the
+husband maintains his authority, and in several instances of supposed
+bad behaviour in a wife, we saw obedience enforced in a very summary
+manner. It is very rare, however, to see them proceed to this extremity;
+and the utmost extent of a husband's want of tenderness towards his wife
+consists in making her walk or lead the dogs, while he takes his own
+seat in the sledge and rides in comfort. Widows, as might be expected,
+are not so well off as those whose husbands are living, and this
+difference is especially apparent in their clothes, which are usually
+very dirty, thin, and ragged; when, indeed, they happen to have no near
+relatives, their fate, as we have already seen, is still worse than
+this.
+
+I fear we cannot give a very favourable account of the chastity of the
+women, nor of the delicacy of their husbands in this respect. As for the
+latter, it was not uncommon for them to offer their wives as freely for
+sale as a knife or a jacket. Some of the young men informed us that,
+when two of them were absent together on a sealing excursion, they often
+exchanged wives for the time, as a matter of friendly convenience; and,
+indeed, without mentioning any other instances of this nature, it may
+safely be affirmed, that in no country is prostitution carried to
+greater lengths than among these people. The behaviour of most of the
+women when their husbands were absent from the huts, plainly evinced
+their indifference towards them, and their utter disregard of connubial
+fidelity. The departure of the men was usually the signal for throwing
+aside restraint, which was invariably resumed on their return. For this
+event they take care to be prepared by the report of the children, one
+of whom is usually posted on the outside for the purpose of giving due
+notice.
+
+The affection of parents for their children was frequently displayed by
+these people, not only in the mere passive indulgence, and abstinence
+from corporeal punishment, for which Esquimaux have before been
+remarked, but by a thousand playful endearments also, such as parents
+and nurses practise in our own country. Nothing, indeed, can well exceed
+the kindness with which they treat their children, and this trait in
+their character deserves to be the more insisted on, because it is, in
+reality, the only very amiable one which they possess. It must be
+confessed, indeed, that the gentleness and docility of the children are
+such as to occasion their parents little trouble, and to render severity
+towards them quite unnecessary. Even from their earliest infancy they
+possess that quiet disposition, gentleness of demeanour, and uncommon
+evenness of temper, for which, in more mature age, they are for the most
+part distinguished. Disobedience is scarcely ever known; a word or even
+a look from a parent is enough; and I never saw a single instance of
+that frowardness and disposition to mischief which, with our youth, so
+often requires the whole attention of a parent to watch over and to
+correct. They never cry from trifling accidents, and sometimes not even
+from very severe hurts, at which an English child would sob for an hour.
+It is, indeed, astonishing to see the indifference with which, even as
+tender infants, they bear the numerous blows they accidentally receive,
+when carried at their mothers' backs.
+
+They are just as fond of play as any other young people, and of the same
+kind; only that while an English child draws a cart of wood, an
+Esquimaux of the same age has a sledge of whalebone; and for the superb
+baby-house of the former, the latter builds a miniature hut of snow, and
+begs a lighted wick from her mother's lamp to illuminate the little
+dwelling. Their parents make for them, as dolls, little figures of men
+and women, habited in the true Esquimaux costume, as well as a variety
+of other toys, many of them having some reference to their future
+occupations in life, such as canoes, spears, and bows and arrows. The
+drum or tambarine, mentioned by Crantz, is common among them, and used
+not only by the children, but by the grown-up people at some of their
+games. They sometimes serrate the edges of two strips of whalebone and
+whirl them round their heads, just as boys do in England to make the
+same peculiar humming sound. They will dispose one piece of wood on
+another, as an axis, in such a manner that the wind turns it round like
+the arms of a windmill; and so of many other toys of the same simple
+kind. These are the distinct property of the children, who will
+sometimes sell them, while their parents look on without interfering or
+expecting to be consulted.
+
+When not more than eight years old, the boys are taken by their fathers
+on their sealing excursions, where they begin to learn their future
+business; and even at that early age they are occasionally intrusted to
+bring home a sledge and dogs from a distance of several miles over the
+ice. At the age of eleven we see a boy with his water-tight boots and
+moccasins, a spear in his hand, and a small coil of line at his back,
+accompanying the men to the fishery, under every circumstance; and from
+this time his services daily increase in value to the whole tribe. On
+our first intercourse with them we supposed that they would not
+unwillingly part with their children, in consideration of some valuable
+present, but in this we afterward found that we were much mistaken.
+Happening one day to call myself Toolooak's _attata_ (father), and
+pretend that he was to remain with me on board the ship, I received from
+the old man, his father, no other answer than what seemed to be very
+strongly and even satirically implied, by his taking one of our
+gentlemen by the arm and calling him _his_ son; thus intimating that the
+adoption which he proposed was as feasible and as natural as my own.
+
+The custom of adoption is carried to very great lengths among these
+people, and served to explain to us several apparent inconsistencies
+with respect to their relationships. The custom owes its origin entirely
+to the obvious advantage of thus providing for a man's own subsistence
+in advanced life; and it is consequently confined almost without
+exception to the adoption of _sons_, who can alone contribute
+materially to the support of an aged and infirm parent. When a man
+adopts the son of another as his own, he is said to "_tego_," or take
+him; and at whatever age this is done (though it generally happens in
+infancy), the child then lives with his new parents, calls them father
+and mother, is sometimes even ignorant of any such transfer having been
+made, especially if his real parents should be dead; and whether he
+knows it or not, is not always willing to acknowledge any but those with
+whom he lives. The agreement seems to be always made between the
+fathers, and to differ in no respect from the transfer of other
+property, except that none can equal in value the property thus disposed
+of. The good sense, good fortune, or extensive claims of some
+individuals were particularly apparent in this way, from the number of
+sons they had adopted. Toolemak, deriving, perhaps, some advantage from
+his qualifications as Angetkook, had taken care to negotiate for the
+adoption of some of the finest male children of the tribe; a provision
+which now appeared the more necessary, from his having lost four
+children of his own, besides Noogloo, who was one of his _tego'd_ sons.
+In one of the two instances that came to our knowledge of the adoption
+of a female child, both its own parents were still living, nor could we
+ascertain the motive for this deviation from the more general custom.
+
+In their behaviour to old people, whose age or infirmities render them
+useless, and, therefore, burdensome to the community, the Esquimaux
+betray a degree of insensibility bordering on inhumanity, and ill
+repaying the kindness of an indulgent parent. The old man Hikkeiera,
+who was very ill during the winter, used to lie day after day, little
+regarded by his wife, son, daughter, and other relatives, except that
+his wretched state constituted, as they well knew, a forcible claim upon
+our charity; and, with this view, it was sure to excite a whine of
+sympathy and commiseration whenever we visited or spoke of him. When,
+however, a journey of ten miles was to be performed over the ice, they
+left him to find his way with a stick in the best manner he could, while
+the young and robust ones were many of them drawn on sledges. There is,
+indeed, no doubt that, had their necessities or mode of life required a
+longer journey than he could thus have accomplished, they would have
+pushed on like the Indians, and left a fellow-creature to perish. It was
+certainly considered incumbent on his son to support him, and he was
+fortunate in that son's being a very good man; but a few more such
+journeys to a man of seventy would not impose this encumbrance upon him
+much longer. Illumea, the mother of several grown-up children, lived
+also in the same hut with her other relations. She did not, however,
+interfere, as in Greenland, with the management of her son's domestic
+concerns, though his wife was half an idiot. She was always badly
+clothed, and, even in the midst of plenty, not particularly well-fed,
+receiving everything more as an act of charity than otherwise; and she
+will probably be less and less attended to, in proportion as she stands
+more in need of assistance.
+
+The different families appear always to live on good terms with each
+other, though each preserves its own habitation and property as
+distinct and independent as any housekeeper in England. The persons
+living under one roof, who are generally closely related, maintain a
+degree of harmony among themselves which is scarcely ever disturbed. The
+more turbulent passions which, when unrestrained by religious principle,
+or unchecked by the dread of human punishment, usually create so much
+havoc in the world, seem to be very seldom excited in the breasts of
+these people, which renders personal violence or immoderate anger
+extremely rare among them; and one may sit in a hut for a whole day, and
+never observe an angry word or look, except in driving out the dogs. If
+they take an offence, it is more common for them to show it by the more
+quiet method of sulkiness, and this they now and then tried as a matter
+of experiment with us. Okotook, who was often in this humour, once
+displayed it to some of our gentlemen in his own hut, by turning his
+back and frequently repeating the expression "good-by," as a broad hint
+to them to go away. Toolooak was also a little given to this mood, but
+never retained it long, and there was no malice mixed with his
+displeasure. One evening that he slept on board the Fury, he either
+offended Mr. Skeoch, or thought that he had done so, by this kind of
+humour; at all events, they parted for the night without any formal
+reconciliation. The next morning Mr. Skeoch was awakened at an unusually
+early hour, by Toolooak's entering his cabin and taking hold of his hand
+to shake it, by way of making up the supposed quarrel. On a disposition
+thus naturally charitable, what might not Christian education and
+Christian principles effect? Where a joke is evidently intended, I
+never knew people more ready to join in it than these are. If ridiculed
+for any particularity of manner, figure, or countenance, they are sure
+not to be long behind-hand in returning it, and that very often with
+interest. If we were the aggressors in this way, some ironical
+observation respecting the _Kabloonas_ was frequently the consequence;
+and no small portion of wit as well as irony was at times mixed with
+their raillery.
+
+In point of intellect as well as disposition, great variety was, of
+course, perceptible among the different individuals of this tribe; but
+few of them were wanting in that respect. Some, indeed, possessed a
+degree of natural quickness and intelligence which, perhaps, could
+hardly be surpassed in the natives of any country. Iligliuk, though one
+of the least amiable, was particularly thus gifted. When she really
+wished to develop our meaning, she would desire her husband and all the
+rest to hold their tongues, and would generally make it out while they
+were puzzling their heads to no purpose. In returning her answers, the
+very expression of her countenance, though one of the plainest among
+them, was almost of itself sufficient to convey her meaning; and there
+was, in these cases, a peculiarly decisive energy in her manner of
+speaking which was extremely interesting. This woman would, indeed, have
+easily learned anything to which she chose to direct her attention; and
+had her lot been cast in a civilized country instead of this dreary
+region, which serves alike to "freeze the genial current of the soul"
+and body, she would probably have been a very clever person. For want
+of a sufficient object, however, neither she nor any of her companions
+ever learned a dozen words of English, except our names, with which it
+was their interest to be familiar, and which, long before we left them,
+any child could repeat, though in their own style of pronunciation.
+
+Besides the natural authority of parents and husbands, these people
+appear to admit no kind of superiority among one another, except a
+certain degree of superstitious reverence for their _angetkooks_, and
+their tacitly following the counsel or steps of the most active
+seal-catcher on their hunting excursions. The word _nallegak_, used in
+Greenland to express "master," and "lord" in the Esquimaux translations
+of the Scriptures, they were not acquainted with. One of the young men
+at Winter Island appeared to be considered somewhat in the light of a
+servant to Okotook, living with the latter, and quietly allowing him to
+take possession of all the most valuable presents which he received from
+us. Being a sociable people, they unite in considerable numbers to form
+a settlement for the winter; but on the return of spring they again
+separate into several parties, each appearing to choose his own route,
+without regard to that of the rest, but all making their arrangements
+without the slightest disagreement or difference of opinion that we
+could ever discover. In all their movements, they seem to be actuated by
+one simultaneous feeling that is truly admirable.
+
+Superior as our arts, contrivances, and materials must unquestionably
+have appeared to them, and eager as they were to profit by this
+superiority, yet, contradictory as it may seem, they certainly looked
+upon us in many respects with profound contempt; maintaining that idea
+of self-sufficiency which has induced them, in common with the rest of
+their nation, to call themselves, by way of distinction, Innue, or
+mankind. One day, for instance, in securing some of the gear of a
+sledge, Okotook broke a part of it, composed of a piece of our white
+line, and I shall never forget the contemptuous sneer with which he
+muttered in soliloquy the word "Kabloona!" in token of the inferiority
+of our materials to his own. It is happy, perhaps, when people,
+possessing so few of the good things of this life, can be thus contented
+with the little allotted them.
+
+The men, though low in stature, are not wanting in muscular strength in
+proportion to their size, or in activity and hardiness. They are good
+and even quick walkers, and occasionally bear much bodily fatigue, wet,
+and cold, without appearing to suffer by it, much less to complain of
+it. Whatever labour they have gone through, and with whatever success in
+procuring game, no individual ever seems to arrogate to himself the
+credit of having done more than his neighbour for the general good. Nor
+do I conceive there is reason to doubt their personal courage, though
+they are too good-natured often to excite others to put that quality to
+the test. It is true, they will recoil with horror at the tale of an
+Indian massacre, and probably cannot conceive what should induce one set
+of men deliberately and without provocation to murder another. War is
+not their trade; ferocity forms no part of the disposition of the
+Esquimaux. Whatever manly qualities they possess are exercised in a
+different way, and put to a far more worthy purpose. They are
+fishermen, and not warriors; but I cannot call that man a coward who,
+at the age of one-and-twenty, will attack a polar bear single-handed, or
+fearlessly commit himself to floating masses of ice, which the next puff
+of wind may drift for ever from the shore.
+
+Of the few arts possessed by this simple people, some account has
+already been given in the description of their various implements. As
+mechanics, they have little to boast when compared with other savages
+lying under equal disadvantages as to scantiness of tools and materials.
+As carpenters, they can scarf two pieces of wood together, secure them
+with pins of whalebone or ivory, fashion the timbers of a canoe, shoe a
+paddle, and rivet a scrap of iron into a spear or arrow-head. Their
+principal tool is the knife (panna); and, considering the excellence of
+a great number which they possessed previous to our intercourse with
+them, the work they do is remarkably coarse and clumsy. Their very
+manner of holding and handling a knife is the most awkward that can be
+imagined. For the purpose of boring holes, they have a drill and bow so
+exactly like our own, that they need no farther description, except that
+the end of the drill handle, which our artists place against their
+breasts, is rested by these people against a piece of wood or bone held
+in their mouths, and having a cavity fitted to receive it. With the use
+of the saw they were well acquainted, but had nothing of this kind in
+their possession better than a notched piece of iron. One or two small
+European axes were lashed to handles in a contrary direction to ours,
+that is, to be used like an adze, a form which, according to the
+observation of a traveller[012] well qualified to judge, savages in
+general prefer. It was said that these people steamed or boiled wood, in
+order to bend it for fashioning the timbers of their canoes. As
+fishermen or seamen, they can put on a woolding or seizing with
+sufficient strength and security, and are acquainted with some of the
+most simple and serviceable knots in use among us. In all the arts,
+however, practised by the men, it is observable that the ingenuity lies
+in the principle, not in the execution. The experience of ages has led
+them to adopt the most efficacious methods, but their practice as
+handicrafts has gone no farther than absolute necessity requires; they
+bestow little labour upon neatness or ornament.
+
+In some of the few arts practised by the women there is much more
+dexterity displayed, particularly in that important branch of a
+housewife's business, sewing, which, even with their own clumsy needles
+of bone, they perform with extraordinary neatness. They had, however,
+several steel needles of a three-cornered shape, which they kept in a
+very convenient case, consisting of a strip of leather passed through a
+hollow bone, and having its ends remaining out, so that the needles
+which are stuck into it may be drawn in and out at pleasure. These cases
+were sometimes ornamented by cutting; and several thimbles of leather,
+one of which, in sewing, is worn on the first finger, are usually
+attached to it, together with a bunch of narrow spoons and other small
+articles liable to be lost. The thread they use is the sinew of the
+reindeer (_tooktoo =ew=all~o~o_), or, when they cannot procure
+this, the swallow-pipe of the _neiliek_. This may be split into threads
+of different sizes, according to the nature of their work, and is
+certainly a most admirable material. This, together with any other
+articles of a similar kind, they keep in little bags, which are
+sometimes made of the skin of birds' feet, disposed with the claws
+downward in a very neat and tasteful manner. In sewing, the point of the
+needle is entered and drawn through in a direction towards the body, and
+not from it or towards one side, as with our seamstresses. They sew the
+deerskins with a "round seam," and the water-tight boots and shoes are
+"stitched." The latter is performed in a very adroit and efficacious
+manner, by putting the needle only half through the substance of one
+part of the sealskin, so as to leave no hole for admitting the water. In
+cutting out the clothes, the women do it after one regular and uniform
+pattern, which probably descends unaltered from generation to
+generation. The skin of the deer's head is always made to form the
+_apex_ of the hood, while that of the neck and shoulders comes down the
+back of the jacket; and so of every other part of the animal which is
+appropriated to its particular portion of the dress. To soften the
+sealskins of which the boots, shoes, and mittens are made, the women
+chew them for an hour or two together and the young girls are often seen
+employed in thus preparing the materials for their mothers. The covering
+of the canoes is a part of the women's business, in which good
+workmanship is especially necessary to render the whole smooth and
+water-tight. The skins, which are those of the _neitiek_ only, are
+prepared by scraping off the hair and the fleshy parts with an _ooloo,_
+and stretching them out tight on a frame, in which state they are left
+over the lamps or in the sun for several days to dry; and after this
+they are well chewed by the women to make them fit for working. The
+dressing of leather and of skins in the hair, is an art which the women
+have brought to no inconsiderable degree of perfection. They perform
+this by first cleansing the skin from as much of the fat and fleshy
+matter as the _ooloo_ will take off, and then rubbing it hard for
+several hours with a blunt scraper, called _si=ak~o~ot_, so as
+nearly to dry it. It is then put into a vessel containing urine, and
+left to steep a couple of days, after which a drying completes the
+process. Skins dressed in the hair are, however, not always thus
+steeped; the women, instead of this, chewing them for hours together
+till they are quite soft and clean. Some of the leather thus dressed
+looked nearly as well as ours, and the hair was as firmly fixed to the
+pelt; but there was in this respect a very great difference, according
+to the art or attention of the housewife. Dyeing is an art wholly
+unknown to them. The women are very expert at platting, which is usually
+done with three threads of sinew; if greater strength is required,
+several of these are twisted slackly together, as in the bowstrings. The
+quickness with which some of the women plat is really surprising; and it
+is well that they do so, for the quantity required for the bows alone
+would otherwise occupy half the year in completing it.
+
+It may be supposed that, among so cheerful a people as the Esquimaux,
+there are many games or sports practised; indeed, it was rarely that we
+visited their habitations without seeing some engaged in them. One of
+these our gentlemen saw at Winter Island, on an occasion when most of
+the men were absent from the huts on a sealing excursion, and in this
+Iligliuk was the chief performer. Being requested to amuse them in this
+way, she suddenly unbound her hair, platted it, tied both ends together
+to keep it out of her way, and then stepping out into the middle of the
+hut, began to make the most hideous faces that can be conceived, by
+drawing both lips into her mouth, poking forward her chin, squinting
+frightfully, occasionally shutting one eye, and moving her head from
+side to side as if her neck had been dislocated. This exhibition, which
+they call _=ay=ok~it-t=ak-poke_, and which is evidently
+considered an accomplishment that few of them possess in perfection,
+distorts every feature in the most horrible manner imaginable, and
+would, I think, put our most skilful horse-collar grinners quite out of
+countenance.
+
+The next performance consists in looking steadfastly and gravely
+forward, and repeating the words _t~ab=ak-tabak, k~eib=o-keibo,
+k~e-b=ang-~e-n=u-t~o-~e~ek, kebang-enutoeek, ~am=at~am=a-amatama_, in
+the order in which they are here placed, but each at least four times,
+and always by a peculiar modulation of the voice, speaking them in pairs
+as they are coupled above. The sound is made to proceed from the throat
+in a way much resembling ventriloquism, to which art it is indeed an
+approach. After the last _amatama_ Iligliuk always pointed with her
+finger towards her body, and pronounced the word _angetkook,_ steadily
+retaining her gravity for five or six seconds, and then bursting into a
+loud laugh, in which she was joined by all the rest. The women sometimes
+produce a much more guttural and unnatural sound, repeating principally
+the word _=ikk~er~ee-ikkeree_, coupling them as before, and staring in
+such a manner as to make their eyes appear ready to burst out of their
+sockets with the exertion. Two or more of them will sometimes stand up
+face to face, and with great quickness and regularity respond to each
+other, keeping such exact time that the sound appears to come from one
+throat instead of several. Very few of the females are possessed of this
+accomplishment, which is called _pitkoo-she-r=ak-poke_, and it is not
+uncommon to see several of the younger females practising it. A third
+part of the game, distinguished by the word _keit=ik-poke_, consists
+only in falling on each knee alternately--a piece of agility which they
+perform with tolerable quickness, considering the bulky and awkward
+nature of their dress.
+
+The last kind of individual exhibition was still performed by Iligliuk,
+to whom in this, as in almost everything else, the other women tacitly
+acknowledged their inferiority, by quietly giving place to her on every
+occasion. She now once more came forward, and letting her arms hang down
+loosely and bending her body very much forward, shook herself with,
+extreme violence, as if her whole frame had been strongly convulsed,
+uttering at the same time, in a wild tone of voice, some of the
+unnatural sounds before mentioned.
+
+This being at an end, a new exhibition was commenced, in which ten or
+twelve women took a part, and which our gentlemen compared to
+blind-man's buff. A circle being formed, and a boy despatched to look
+out at the door of the hut, Iligliuk, still the principal actress,
+placed herself in the centre, and after making a variety of guttural
+noises for about half a minute, shut her eyes and ran about till she had
+taken hold of one of the others, whose business it then became to take
+her station in the centre, so that almost every woman in her turn
+occupied this post; and in her own peculiar way, either by distortion of
+countenance or other gestures, performed her part in the game. This
+continued three quarters of an hour; and, from the precaution of placing
+a look-out, who was withdrawn when it was over, as well as from some
+very expressive signs which need not here be mentioned, there is reason
+to believe that it is usually followed by certain indecencies, with
+which their husbands are not to be acquainted. Kaoongut was present,
+indeed, on this occasion, but his age seemed to render him a privileged
+person; besides which, his own wife did not join in the game.
+
+The most common amusement, however, and to which their husbands made no
+objection, they performed at Winter Island expressly for our
+gratification. The females being collected to the number of ten or
+twelve, stood in as large a circle as the hut would admit, with Okotook
+in the centre. He began by a sort of half howling, half singing noise,
+which appeared as if designed to call the attention of the women, the
+latter soon commencing the _Amna Aya_ song hereafter described. This
+they continued without variety, remaining quite still while Okotook
+walked round within the circle; his body was rather bent forward, his
+eyes sometimes closed, his arms constantly moving up and down, and now
+and then hoarsely vociferating a word or two, as if to increase the
+animation of the singers, who, whenever he did this, quitted the chorus
+and rose into the words of the song. At the end of ten minutes they all
+left off at once, and after one minute's interval commenced a second act
+precisely similar and of equal duration; Okotook continuing to invoke
+their muse as before. A third act, which followed this, varied only in
+his frequently, towards the close, throwing his feet up before and
+clapping his hands together, by which exertion he was thrown into a
+violent perspiration. He then retired, desiring a young man (who, as we
+were informed, was the only individual of several then present thus
+qualified) to take his place in the centre as master of the ceremonies,
+when the same antics as before were again gone through. After this
+description it will scarcely be necessary to remark, that nothing can be
+poorer in its way than this tedious singing recreation, which, as well
+as everything in which dancing is concerned, they express by the word
+m~om=ek-poke. They seem, however, to take great delight in it; and
+even a number of men, as well as all the children, crept into the hut by
+degrees to peep at the performance.
+
+The Esquimaux women and children often amuse themselves with a game not
+unlike our "skip-rope." This is performed by two women holding the ends
+of a line, and whirling it regularly round and round, while a third
+jumps over it in the middle, according to the following order. She
+commences by jumping twice on both feet, then alternately with the right
+and left, and next four times with the feet slipped one behind the
+other, the rope passing once round at each jump. After this she performs
+a circle on the ground, jumping about half a dozen times in the course
+of it, which bringing her to her original position, the same thing is
+repeated as often as it can be done without entangling the line. One or
+two of the women performed this with considerable agility and
+adroitness, considering the clumsiness of their boots and jackets, and
+seemed to pride themselves, in some degree, on the qualification. A
+second kind of this game consists in two women holding a long rope by
+its ends, and whirling it round in such a manner, over the heads of two
+others standing close together near the middle of the bight, that each
+of these shall jump over it alternately. The art, therefore, which is
+indeed considerable, depends more on those whirling the rope than on the
+jumpers, who are, however, obliged to keep exact time, in order to be
+ready for the rope passing under their feet.
+
+The whole of these people, but especially the women, are fond of music,
+both vocal and instrumental. Some of them might be said to be
+passionately so, removing their hair from off their ears, and bending
+their heads forward, as if to catch the sounds more distinctly, whenever
+we amused them in this manner. Their own music is entirely vocal,
+unless, indeed, the drum and tambarine before mentioned be considered an
+exception.
+
+The voices of the women are soft and feminine, and, when singing with
+the men, are pitched an octave higher than theirs. They have most of
+them so far good ears, that, in whatever key a song is commenced by one
+of them, the rest will always join in perfect unison. After singing for
+ten minutes, the key had usually fallen a full semitone. Only two of
+them, of whom Iligliuk was one, could catch the tune as pitched by an
+instrument, which made it difficult with most of them to complete the
+writing of the notes; for if they once left off they were sure to
+recommence in some other key, though a flute or violin was playing at
+the time.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+During the season passed at Winter Island, which appears to have been a
+healthy one with the Esquimaux, we had little opportunity of becoming
+acquainted with the diseases to which they are subject. Our subsequent
+intercourse with a great number of these people at Igloolik having
+unfortunately afforded more frequent and fatal instances of sickness
+among them, I here insert Mr. Edwards's remarks on this subject.
+
+
+     "Our first communication with these people at Winter Island gave us
+     a more favourable impression of their general health than
+     subsequent experience confirmed. There, however, they were not free
+     from sickness. A catarrhal affection, in the month of February,
+     became generally prevalent, from which they readily recovered after
+     the exciting causes, intemperance and exposure to wet, had ceased
+     to operate. A solitary instance of pleurisy also occurred, which
+     probably might have ended fatally but for timely assistance. Our
+     intercourse with them in the summer was more interrupted; but at
+     our occasional meetings they were observed to be enjoying excellent
+     health. It is probable that their certain supplies of food, and the
+     nomade kind of life they lead in its pursuit during that season,
+     are favourable to health. Nutrition goes on actively, and an
+     astonishing increase of strength and fulness is acquired. Active
+     diseases might now be looked for, but that the powers of nature are
+     providentially exerted with effect.
+
+     "The unlimited use of stimulating animal food, on which they are
+     from infancy fed, induces at an early age a highly plethoric state
+     of the vascular system. The weaker, over-distended vessels of the
+     nose quickly yield to the increased impetus of the blood, and an
+     active hemorrhage relieves the subject. As the same causes continue
+     to be applied in excess at frequent intervals, and are followed by
+     similar effects, a kind of vicarious hemorrhage at length becomes
+     established by habit; superseding the intervention of art, and
+     having no small share in maintaining a balance in the circulating
+     system. The phenomenon is too constant to have escaped the
+     observation of those who have visited the different Esquimaux
+     people; a party of them has, indeed, rarely been seen, that did not
+     exhibit two or three instances of the fact.
+
+     "About the month of September, the approach of winter induced the
+     Esquimaux at Igloolik to abandon their tents and to retire into
+     their more established village. The majority were here crowded into
+     huts of a permanent construction, the materials composing the sides
+     being stones and the bones of whales, and the roofs being formed of
+     skins, turf, and snow; the rest of the people were lodged in snow
+     huts. For a while they continued very healthy; in fact, as long as
+     the temperature of the interior did not exceed the freezing point,
+     the vapours of the atmosphere congealed upon the walls, and the
+     air remained dry and tolerably pure; besides, their hard-frozen
+     winter stock of walrus did not at this time tempt them to indulge
+     their appetites immoderately. In January the temperature suffered
+     an unseasonable rise; some successful captures of walrus also took
+     place; and these circumstances, combined perhaps with some
+     superstitious customs of which we were ignorant, seemed the signal
+     for giving way to sensuality. The lamps were accumulated, and the
+     kettles more frequently replenished; and gluttony, in its most
+     disgusting form, became for a while the order of the day. The
+     Esquimaux were now seen wallowing in filth, while some, surfeited,
+     lay stretched upon their skins, enormously distended, and with
+     their friends employed in rolling them about, to assist the
+     operations of oppressed nature. The roofs of their huts were no
+     longer congealed, but dripping with wet and threatening speedy
+     dissolution. The air was, in the bone huts, damp, hot, and beyond
+     sufferance offensive with putrid exhalations from the decomposing
+     relics of offals or other animal matter permitted to remain from
+     year to year undisturbed in these horrible sinks.
+
+     "What the consequences might have been had this state of affairs
+     long continued, it is not difficult to imagine; but, fortunately
+     for them, an early and gradual dispersion took place, so that by
+     the end of January few individuals were left in the village. The
+     rest, in divided bodies, established themselves in snow huts upon
+     the sea-ice at some distance from the land. Before this change had
+     been completed, disorders of an inflammatory character had
+     appeared. A few went away sick, some were unable to remove, and
+     others taken ill upon the ice, and we heard of the death of several
+     about this period.
+
+     "Their distance from the ships at once precluded any effectual
+     assistance being rendered them at their huts, and their removal on
+     board with safety; the complaints of those who died at the huts,
+     therefore, did not come under observation. It appears, however, to
+     have been acute inflammation of some of the abdominal viscera, very
+     rapid in its career. In the generality, the disease assumed a more
+     insidious and sub-acute form, under which the patient lingered for
+     a while, and was then either carried off by a diarrhoea, or slowly
+     recovered by the powers of nature. Three or four individuals, who,
+     with some risk and trouble, were brought to the ships, we were
+     providentially instrumental in recovering; but two others, almost
+     helpless patients, were so far exhausted before their arrival, that
+     the endeavours used were unsuccessful, and death was probably
+     hastened by their removal.
+
+     "That affection of the eyes known by the name of snow-blindness, is
+     extremely frequent among these people. With them it scarcely ever
+     goes beyond painful irritation, while among strangers inflammation
+     is sometimes the consequence. I have not seen them use any other
+     remedy besides the exclusion of light; but, as a preventive, a
+     wooden eye-screen is worn, very simple in its construction,
+     consisting of a curved piece of wood, six or seven inches long, and
+     ten or twelve lines broad. It is tied over the eyes like a pair of
+     spectacles, being adapted to the forehead and nose, and hollowed
+     out to favour the motion of the eyelids. A few rays of light only
+     are admitted through a narrow slit an inch long, cut opposite to
+     each eye.
+
+     "There are, upon the whole, no people more destitute of curative
+     means than these. With the exception of the hemorrhage already
+     mentioned, which they duly appreciate, and have been observed to
+     excite artificially to cure headache, they are ignorant of any
+     rational method of procuring relief. It has not been ascertained
+     that they use a single herb medicinally. As prophylactics, they
+     wear amulets, which are usually the teeth, bones, or hair of some
+     animal, the more rare apparently the more valuable. In absolute
+     sickness they depend entirely upon their Angekoks, who, they
+     persuade themselves, have influence over some submarine deities who
+     govern their destiny. The mummeries of these impostors, consisting
+     in pretended consultations with their oracles, are looked upon with
+     confidence, and their mandates, however absurd, superstitiously
+     submitted to. These are constituted of unmeaning ceremonies and
+     prohibitions generally affecting the diet, both in kind and mode,
+     but never in quantity. Seal's flesh is forbidden, for instance, in
+     one disease, that of the walrus in the other; the heart is denied
+     to some, and the liver to others. A poor woman, on discovering that
+     the meat she had in her mouth was a piece of fried heart instead of
+     liver, appeared horror-struck; and a man was in equal tribulation
+     at having eaten, by mistake, a piece of meat cooked in his wife's
+     kettle.
+
+     "Personal deformity from malconformation is uncommon; the only
+     instance I remember being that of a young woman, whose utterance
+     was unintelligibly nasal, in consequence of an imperfect
+     development of the palatine bones leaving a gap in the roof of the
+     mouth."
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Whatever may be the abundance sometimes enjoyed by these people, and
+whatever the maladies occasioned by their too frequent abuse of it, it
+is certain that they occasionally suffer very severely from the opposite
+extreme. A remarkably intelligent woman informed Captain Lyon, that two
+years ago some Esquimaux arrived at Igloolik from a place near
+_Akkoolee_, bringing information that, during a very grievous famine,
+one party of men had fallen upon another and killed them; and that they
+afterward subsisted on their flesh, while in a frozen state, but never
+cooked or even thawed it. This horrible account was soon after confirmed
+by Toolemak on board the Fury; and though he was evidently uneasy at our
+having heard the story, and conversed upon it with reluctance, yet, by
+means of our questions, he was brought to name, upon his fingers, five
+individuals who had been killed upon this occasion. Of the fact,
+therefore, there can be no doubt; but it is certain, also, that we
+ourselves scarcely regarded it with greater horror than those who
+related it; and the occurrence may be considered similar to those
+dreadful instances on record, even among civilized nations, of men
+devouring one another, in wrecks or boats, when rendered desperate by
+the sufferings of actual starvation.
+
+The ceremony of crying, which has before been mentioned as practised
+after a person's death, is not, however, altogether confined to those
+melancholy occasions, but is occasionally adopted in cases of illness,
+and that of no very dangerous kind. The father of a sick person enters
+the apartment, and, after looking at him a few seconds without speaking,
+announces by a kind of low sob his preparation for the coming ceremony.
+At this signal every other individual present composes his features for
+crying, and the leader of the chorus then setting up a loud and piteous
+howl, which lasts about a minute, is joined by all the rest, who shed
+abundant tears during the process. So decidedly is this a matter of
+form, unaccompanied by any feeling of sorrow, that those who are not
+relatives shed just as many tears as those that are; to which may be
+added, that in the instances which we saw there was no real occasion for
+crying at all. It must, therefore, be considered in the light of a
+ceremony of condolence, which it would be either indecorous or unlucky
+to omit.
+
+I have already given several instances of the little care these people
+take in the interment of their dead, especially in the winter season; it
+is certain, however, that this arises from some superstitious notion,
+and particularly from the belief that any heavy weight upon the corpse
+would have an injurious effect upon the deceased in a future state of
+existence; for even in the summer, when it would be an easy matter to
+secure a body from the depredations of wild animals, the mode of burial
+is not essentially different. The corpse of a child observed by
+Lieutenant Palmer, he describes "as being laid in a regular but shallow
+grave, with its head to the northeast. It was decently dressed in a good
+deerskin jacket, and a sealskin prepared without the hair was carefully
+placed as a cover to the whole figure, and tucked in on all sides. The
+body was covered with flat pieces of limestone, which, however, were so
+light that a fox might easily have removed them. Near the grave were
+four little separate piles of stones, not more than a foot in height, in
+one of which we noticed a piece of red cloth and a black silk
+handkerchief, in a second a pair of child's boots and mittens, and in
+each of the others a whalebone pot. The face of the child looked
+unusually clean and fresh, and a few days could only have elapsed since
+its decease."
+
+These Esquimaux do not appear to have any idea of the existence of One
+Supreme Being, nor indeed can they be said to entertain any notions on
+this subject which may be dignified with the name of Religion. Their
+superstitions, which are numerous, have all some reference to the
+preternatural agency of a number of _to=orng~ow_ or spirits, with
+whom, on certain occasions, the _Angetkooks_ pretend to hold mysterious
+intercourse, and who, in various and distinct ways, are supposed to
+preside over the destinies of the Esquimaux. On particular occasions of
+sickness or want of food, the Angetkooks contrive, by means of a
+darkened hut, a peculiar modulation of the voices and the uttering of a
+variety of unintelligible sounds, to persuade their countrymen that they
+are descending to the lower regions for this purpose, where they force
+the spirits to communicate the desired information. The superstitious
+reverence in which these wizards are held, and a considerable degree of
+ingenuity in their mode of performing their mummery, prevent the
+detection of the imposture, and secure implicit confidence in these
+absurd oracles. Some account of their ideas repecting death, and of
+their belief in a future state of existence, has already been introduced
+in the course of the foregoing pages, in the order of those occurrences
+which furnished us with opportunities of observing them.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+NARRATIVE
+
+OF
+
+AN ATTEMPT TO REACH THE
+
+NORTH POLE,
+
+IN BOATS FITTED FOR THE PURPOSE, AND ATTACHED
+TO HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP HECLA,
+
+IN THE YEAR 1827.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+NARRATIVE
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+In April, 1826, I proposed to the Right Honourable Viscount Melville,
+first lord commissioner of the Admiralty, to attempt to reach the North
+Pole by means of travelling with sledge-boats over the ice, or through
+any spaces of open water that might occur. My proposal was soon
+afterward referred to the president and council of the Royal Society,
+who strongly recommended its adoption; and an expedition being
+accordingly directed to be equipped for this purpose, I had the honour
+of being appointed to the command of it; and my commission for his
+majesty's ship the Hecla, which was intended to carry us to Spitzbergen,
+was dated the 11th of November, 1826.
+
+Two boats were constructed at Woolwich, under my superintendence, after
+an excellent model suggested by Mr. Peake, and nearly resembling what
+are called "troop-boats," having great flatness of floor, with the
+extreme breadth carried well forward and aft, and possessing the utmost
+buoyancy, as well as capacity for stowage. Their length was twenty feet,
+and their extreme breadth seven feet. The timbers were made of tough ash
+and hickory, one inch by half an inch square, and a foot apart, with a
+"half-timber" of smaller size between each two. On the outside of the
+frame thus formed was laid a covering of Macintosh's water-proof
+canvass, the outer part being covered with tar. Over this was placed a
+plank of fir, only three sixteenths of an inch thick; then a sheet of
+stout felt; and, over all, an oak plank of the same thickness as the
+fir; the whole of these being firmly and closely secured to the timbers
+by iron screws applied from without. The following narrative will show
+how admirably the elasticity of this mode of construction was adapted to
+withstand the constant twisting and concussion to which the boats were
+subject.[013] On each side of the keel, and projecting considerably
+below it, was attached a strong "runner," shod with smooth steel, in the
+manner of a sledge, upon which the boat entirely rested while upon the
+ice; and, to afford some additional chance of making progress on hard
+and level fields, we also applied to each boat two wheels, of five feet
+diameter, and a small one abaft, having a swivel for steering by, like
+that of a Bath chair; but these, owing to the irregularities of the ice,
+did not prove of any service, and were subsequently relinquished. A
+"span" of hide-rope was attached to the forepart of the runners, and to
+this were affixed two strong ropes of horse-hair, for dragging the boat:
+each individual being furnished with a broad leathern shoulder-belt,
+which could readily be fastened to or detached from the drag-ropes. The
+interior arrangement consisted only of two thwarts; a locker at each
+end for the nautical and other instruments, and for the smaller stores;
+and a very slight framework along the sides for containing the bags of
+biscuit and our spare clothes. A bamboo mast nineteen feet long, a
+tanned duck sail, answering also the purpose of an awning, a spreat, one
+boat-hook, fourteen paddles, and a steer-oar, completed each boat's
+equipment.
+
+Two officers and twelve men (ten of the latter being seamen, and two
+marines) were selected for each boat's crew. It was proposed to take
+with us resources for ninety days; to set out from Spitzbergen, if
+possible, about the beginning of June; and to occupy the months of June,
+July, and August in attempting to reach the Pole and returning to the
+ship; making an average journey of thirteen miles and a half per day.
+Our provisions consisted of biscuit of the best wheaten flour; beef
+_pemmican_;[014] sweetened cocoa-powder, and a small proportion of rum,
+the latter concentrated to fifty-five per cent. above proof, in order to
+save weight and stowage. The proper instruments were provided, both by
+the Admiralty and the Board of Longitude, for making such observations
+as might be interesting in the higher latitudes, and as the nature of
+the enterprise would permit. Six pocket chronometers, the property of
+the public, were furnished for this service; and Messrs. Parkinson and
+Frodsham, with their usual liberality, intrusted to our care several
+other excellent watches, on trial, at their own expense.
+
+Annexed is a list of the different articles composing the equipment of
+the boats, together with the actual weight of each.
+
+
+                                                        Enter-      Endeav-
+                                                        prise       our
+                                                        lbs.        lbs.
+Boat .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .     . 1539        1542
+Bamboo mast, 1 spreat, 1 boat-hook, 1 steer-oar.     .   46-1/2      46-1/2
+Fourteen paddles .     .     .     .     .     .     .   41          41
+Sail (or awning) .     .     .     .     .     .     .   22          22
+Spare rope and line    .     .     .     .     .     .    6           6
+Small sounding line (750 fathoms in all) .     .     .    8          10
+Carpenters' tools, screws, nails, &c.    .     .     .   10          10
+Copper and felt for repairs  .     .     .     .     .   19          19
+Four fowling pieces,with 2 bayonets.     .     .     .   15          15
+Small articles for guns.     .     .     .     .     .   --           4
+Ammunition .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .   17-1/2      17-1/2
+Instruments.     .     .     .     .     .     .     .   29          29
+Books.     .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .    7           5-1/2
+S {
+p {Fur Suits for sleeping in (14 in each boat) .     .  162         162
+a {Thick-nailed boots (14 in each boat)  .     .     .   47          47
+r {Esquimaux do., with spare soles (14 in each       .
+e {  boat  .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .   33          33
+C {Flannel shirts (7 in each boat) .     .     .     .    8-3/4       8-3/4
+l {Guernsey frocks (do. do.) .     .     .     .     .   11-1/2      11-1/2
+o {Thick drawers   (do. do.)       .     .     .     .   14          14
+t {Mittens (28 in each boat) .     .     .     .     .    5           5
+h {Comforters (14 in each boat)    .     .     .     .    1           1
+e {Scotch caps (do. do.)     .     .     .     .     .    4           4
+s {
+A bag of small articles for the officers,            .
+  including soap, &c., &c.   .     .     .     .     .    4           4
+Do. do. for the men   do.    .     .     .     .     .   12          12
+Biscuit    .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .  628         628
+Pemmican   .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .  564         564
+Rum        .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .  180         180
+Cocoa powder, sweetened.     .     .     .     .     .   63          63
+Salt .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .   14          14
+Spirits of Wine  .     .     .     .     .     .     .   72          72
+Cooking apparatus.     .     .     .     .     .     .   --          20
+Tobacco    .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .   20          20
+Medicine chest                                       .   19          --
+Pannikins, knife, fork, and spoon (14 in each boat)  .    5           5
+Weighing-dials and measures                          .    2           2
+Various small articles for repairs, &c., not mentioned
+above                                                    14          --
+Packages for provisions, clothes, &c                    110         116
+                                                        ----       ----
+                                                    14)3753 1/4    3753 3/4
+
+                    Weight, per man                     268 lbs.
+Exclusive of four sledges, weighing 26 lbs. each.
+
+
+I have not thought it necessary, in the course of this volume, to enter
+into any examination of the question respecting the approaches to the
+North Pole which had already been effected previous to our late attempt.
+I shall, therefore, only add that, after carefully weighing the various
+authorities, from which every individual interested in this matter is at
+liberty to form his own conclusions, my own impartial conviction, at the
+time of our setting out on this enterprise, coincided (with a single
+exception) with the opinion expressed by the Commissioners of Longitude
+in their memorial to the king, that "the progress of discovery had not
+arrived northward, according to any well-authenticated accounts, so far
+as eighty-one degrees of north latitude." The exception to which I
+allude is in favour of Mr. Scoresby, who states his having, in the year
+1806, reached the latitude of 81° 12' 42" by actual observation, and 81°
+30' by dead reckoning. I therefore consider the latter parallel as, in
+all probability, the highest which had ever been attained prior to the
+attempt recorded in the following pages.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+The Hecla being ready to proceed down the river, she was taken in tow,
+at ten A.M. on the 25th of March, 1827, by the Lightning steam-vessel;
+and having received and returned the cheers of the Greenwich pensioners,
+the children of the Naval Asylum, and of various ships in the river, she
+made fast to the moorings at Northfleet at three P.M. The following day
+was occupied in swinging the ship round on the various points of the
+compass, in order to obtain the amount of the deviation of the magnetic
+needle produced by the attraction of the ship's iron, and to fix Mr.
+Barlow's plate for correcting it.[015] On the 3d of April the ship's
+company received three months' wages in advance, together with their
+river-pay; and on the following morning, at half past four, we weighed
+and made sail from the Nore.
+
+We had at this time remarkably fine weather for the season of the year,
+and such a continuance of southerly winds that we arrived off the island
+of Soroe, within which Hammerfest lies, on the 17th, without having had
+occasion to make a tack till we entered the fiord which forms the
+northern entrance.
+
+The wind becoming light from the southward, and very variable, we were
+occupied the whole of the 18th in beating up towards Hammerfest. In the
+evening a Lapland boat came on board, and one of the men undertook to
+pilot the ship to the anchorage, which, after beating all night against
+an ebb tide, we reached at three A.M. on the 19th. Finding that our
+reindeer had not arrived, I immediately despatched Lieutenant Crozier,
+in one of our own boats, to Alten, from whence they were expected--a
+distance of about sixty English miles. At the same time, we landed our
+observatories and instruments at Fugleness, near the establishment of
+Messrs. Crowe and Woodfall, the British merchants residing here; and
+Lieutenant Foster and myself immediately commenced our magnetic and
+other observations, which were continued during the whole of our stay
+here. We completed our supply of water, and obtained a small quantity of
+venison, with abundance of good fish (principally torsk and cod), and
+some milk. We also purchased a set of snow-shoes for our travelling
+party, together with the Lapland shoes of leather (called Kamooga[016]),
+which are the most convenient and comfortable for wearing with them; and
+we practised our people in the manner of walking in them in deep snow,
+which afforded them fine exercise and amusement.
+
+On the 23d, Lieutenant Crozier returned in the boat from Alten, and was
+followed the next day by Mr. Wooodfall, who brought with him eight
+reindeer for our use, together with a supply of moss for their provender
+(_cenomyce rangiferina_). As, however, the latter required a great deal
+of picking, so as to render it fit to carry with us over the ice, and
+as it was also necessary that we should be instructed in the manner of
+managing the deer, I determined on remaining a day or two longer for
+these purposes. Nothing can be more beautiful than the training of the
+Lapland reindeer. With a simple collar of skin round his neck, a single
+trace of the same material attached to the "pulk" or sledge, and passing
+between his legs, and one rein, fastened like a halter about his neck,
+this intelligent and docile animal is perfectly under the command of an
+experienced driver, and performs astonishing journeys over the softest
+snow. When the rein is thrown over on the off side of the animal, he
+immediately sets off at a full, trot, and stops short the instant it is
+thrown back to the near side. Shaking the rein over his back is the only
+whip that is required. In a short time after setting off, they appear to
+be gasping for breath, as if quite exhausted; but, if not driven too
+fast at first, they soon recover this, and then go on without
+difficulty. The quantity of _clean_ moss considered requisite for each
+deer per day is four pounds; but they will go five or six days without
+provender, and not suffer materially. As long as they can pick up snow
+as they go along, which they like to eat quite clean, they require no
+water; and ice is to them a comfortable bed. It may well be imagined,
+with such qualifications, how valuable these animals seemed likely to
+prove to us; and the more we became accustomed, and, I may say, attached
+to them, the more painful became the idea of the necessity which was
+likely to exist, of ultimately having recourse to them as provision for
+ourselves.
+
+Our preparations were completed on the 27th, but the wind continuing
+fresh from the northwestern quarter in the offing, we had no prospect of
+making any progress till the morning of the 29th, when we weighed at six
+A.M.
+
+On the 5th of May, being in latitude 73° 30', and longitude 7° 28' E.,
+we met with the first straggling mass of ice, after which, in sailing
+about 110 miles in a N.N.W. direction, there was always a number of
+loose masses in sight; but it did not occur in continuous "streams" till
+the morning of the 7th, in latitude 74° 55', a few miles to the eastward
+of the meridian of Greenwich. On the 10th several whalers were in sight,
+and Mr. Bennett, the master of the Venerable, of Hull, whom we had
+before met in Baffin's Bay in 1818, came on board. From him I learned
+that several of the ships had been in the ice since the middle of April,
+some of them having been so far to the westward as the island of Jan
+Mayen, and that they were now endeavouring to push to the northward.
+They considered the ice to offer more obstacles to the attainment of
+this object than it had done for many years past.[017] None of the ships
+had yet taken a single whale, which, indeed, they never expect to do to
+the southward of about 78°.
+
+In the afternoon, after waiting for some time for the ice to open, we
+again entered it, in company with all the whalers, and by the following
+morning had succeeded in pushing about fifty miles farther to the
+northward, though not without some heavy blows in "boring" through the
+ice.
+
+At five A.M. on the 14th we passed Magdalena Bay, and by ten o'clock had
+arrived off Hakluyt's Headland, round which we hauled to the
+southeastward, to look, for anchorage in Smerenburg Harbour. In this,
+however, we were disappointed, the whole place being occupied by one
+unbroken floe of ice, still firmly attached to the land on each side.
+Here we made fast, though not without considerable difficulty; the wind,
+which was now freshening from the southward, blowing in such violent and
+irregular gusts off the high land that the ship was scarcely manageable.
+Walruses, dovekies, and eider-ducks were very numerous here, especially
+the former; and four reindeer came down upon the ice near the ship.
+
+We now prepared a quantity of provisions and other stores to land at
+Hakluyt's Headland, as a supply for my party on our return from the
+northward; so that, in case of the ship being obliged to go more to the
+southward, or of our not being able at once to reach her, we should be
+furnished with a few days' resources of every kind. Our intentions were,
+however, frustrated for the present; for we had scarcely secured our
+hawsers, when a hard gale came on from the southward, threatening every
+moment to snap them in two, and drive us from our anchorage. We held on
+for several hours, till, at nine P.M., some swell having set in upon the
+margin of the ice, it began to break off and drift away. Every possible
+exertion was instantly made to shift our stream cable farther in upon
+the floe; but it broke away so quickly as to baffle every endeavour,
+and at ten the ship went adrift, the wind blowing still harder than
+before. Having hauled in the hawsers and got the boats on board, we set
+the close-reefed topsails, to endeavour to hang to windward; but the
+wind blew in such tremendous gusts from the high land as almost to lay
+the ship on her beam-ends; so that we were obliged to reduce our canvass
+to the main topsail and stormsails, and let her drive to leeward.[018]
+The situation of the ship now appeared a very precarious one, the wind
+still blowing with unabated violence, and with every appearance of a
+continuance of stormy weather. Under these circumstances, it was the
+general opinion of the officers, as well as my own, that it was
+advisable to take advantage of the comparatively smooth water within the
+stream of ice, and to run the ship into the pack, rather than incur the
+risk of having to do the same thing in a heavy sea. This plan succeeded
+remarkably well; a tolerably smooth and open part of the margin being
+selected, the ship was forced into it at three A.M., when, after
+encountering a few severe blows from the heavy washed pieces which
+always occur near the sea-edge, she was gradually carried onward under
+all sail, and at four A.M. we got into a perfectly smooth and secure
+situation, half a mile within the margin of a "pack."
+
+It was impossible not to consider ourselves highly fortunate in having
+thus early, and with no great difficulty, succeeded in reaching the
+highest latitude to which it was our object to take the ship. But, from
+what we had already seen at Smerenburg, it was also impossible not to
+feel much anxiety as to the prospect of getting her into any secure
+harbour before the proper time of my departure to the northward should
+arrive. However, we could only wait patiently for the result of a few
+more days; and, in the mean time, everybody was busily employed in
+completing the arrangements for our departure, so that, if an
+opportunity did offer of securing the ship, we might have nothing else
+to attend to. Our deer were in good order, having been thriving well
+ever since they came on board; they make excellent sailors, and do not
+seem to mind bad weather, always lying down quite comfortable whenever
+there is any sea.
+
+In order to try what our chances were, at the present low temperature,
+of procuring water upon the ice without expense of fuel, we laid a black
+painted canvass cloth, and also a piece of black felt, upon the surface
+of the snow; the temperature of the atmosphere being from 18° to 23°.
+These substances had, in a couple of hours, sunk half an inch into the
+snow, but no water could be collected. I was desirous, also, of
+ascertaining whether any part of the real sea-ice was so entirely fresh
+when melted as to be drunk without injury or inconvenience. For this
+purpose we cut a block of ice from a large hummock, about ten feet high
+above the sea; and having broken, pounded, and melted it, without any
+previous washing, we found it, both by the hydrometer and by the
+chemical test (nitrate of silver), _more_ free from salt than any which
+we had in our tanks, and which was procured from Hammerfest. I
+considered this satisfactory, because, in the autumn, the pools of water
+met with upon the ice generally become very brackish, in consequence of
+the sea-water being drawn up into them by capillary action as the ice
+becomes more "rotten" and porous; and we might, therefore, have to
+depend chiefly on melted ice for our daily supply.
+
+No change took place till the 21st, when, on the weather clearing up, we
+found that the open water we had left to the westward was now wholly
+closed up, and that there was none whatever in sight. It was now also so
+close in-shore, that on the 22d, Lieutenant Ross, with a party of
+officers and men, succeeded in landing without difficulty. They found a
+small floe of level ice close to the beach, which appeared very lately
+formed. Walking up to a little conspicuous eminence near the eastern end
+of the beach, they found it to be composed of clay-slate, tinged of a
+brownish red colour. The few uncovered parts of the beach were strewed
+with smooth schistose fragments of the same mineral, and in some parts a
+quantity of thin slates of it lay closely disposed together in a
+vertical position. On the little hillock were two graves, bearing the
+dates of 1741 and 1762 on some of the stones which marked them, and a
+considerable quantity of fir driftwood lay upon the beach.
+
+I now clearly saw that there was, for the present, no reasonable
+prospect of our getting towards any harbour; and I could not but feel
+confident that, even if we did get to the entrance of any, some time
+must be occupied in securing the ship. It may be well imagined how
+anxious I had now become to delay no longer in setting out upon the
+main object of the expedition. I felt that a few days at the
+commencement of the season, short as it is in these regions, might be of
+great importance as to the result of our enterprise, while the ship
+seemed to be so far secure from any immediate danger as to justify my
+leaving her, with a reduced crew, in her present situation. The nature
+of the ice was, beyond all comparison, the most unfavourable for our
+purpose that I remember to have ever seen. It consisted only of loose
+pieces, scarcely any of them fifteen or twenty yards square; and when
+any so large did occur, their, margins were surrounded by the smaller
+ones, thrown up by the recent pressure into ten thousand various shapes,
+and presenting high and sharp angular masses at every other step. The
+men compared it to a stone-mason's yard, which, except that the stones
+were of ten times the usual dimensions, it indeed very much resembled.
+The only inducement to set out over such a road was the certainty that
+floes and fields lay beyond it, and the hope that they were not _far_
+beyond it. In this respect, indeed, I considered our present easterly
+position as a probable advantage, since the ice was much less likely to
+have been disturbed to any great extent northward in this meridian than
+to the westward clear of the land, where every southerly breeze was sure
+to be making havoc among it. Another very important advantage in setting
+off on this meridian appeared to me to be, that, the land of Spitzbergen
+lying immediately over against the ice, the latter could never drift so
+much or so fast to the southward as it might farther to the westward.
+
+Upon these grounds it was that I was anxious to make an attempt, at
+least, as soon as our arrangements could be completed; and the officers
+being of the same opinion as myself, we hoisted out the boats early in
+the morning of the 27th, and, having put the things into one of them,
+endeavoured, by way of experiment, to get her to a little distance from
+the ship. Such however, were the irregularities of the ice, that, even
+with the assistance of an additional party of men, it was obvious that
+we could not have gained a single mile in a day, and, what was still
+more important, not without almost certain and serious injury to the
+boats by their striking against the angular masses. Under these
+circumstances, it was but too evident to every one that it would have
+been highly imprudent to persist in setting out, since, if the ice,
+after all, should clear away, even in a week, so as to allow us to get a
+few miles nearer the main body, time would be ultimately saved by our
+delay, to say nothing of the wear and tear, and expense of our
+provisions. I was, therefore, very reluctantly compelled to yield to
+this necessity, and to order the things to be got on board again.
+
+Immediately after we had, on the 27th, proved experimentally the extreme
+difficulty of transporting our boats and stores over the ice which now
+surrounded us, I made up my mind to the very great probability there
+seemed to be of the necessity of adopting such alterations in our
+original plans as would accommodate them to these untoward circumstances
+at the outset. The boats forming the main impediment, not so much on
+account of their absolute weight as from the difficulty of managing so
+large a body upon a road of this nature, I made preparations for the
+possible contingency of our having to take only one, continuing the same
+number of men in our whole party. All that I saw reason to apprehend
+from having only a single boat on our outward journey, was some
+occasional delay in ferrying over spaces of water in two trips instead
+of one; but we considered that this would be much more than compensated
+by the increased rate at which we should go whenever we were upon the
+ice, as we expected to be nine days out of ten. The principal
+disadvantage, therefore, consisted in our not all being able to sleep in
+the boat, and this we proposed to obviate in the following manner.
+
+We constructed out of the Lapland snow-shoes fourteen sledges, each
+sledge consisting of two pairs well fastened together. Upon these we
+proposed dragging almost all the weight, so as to keep the boat nearly
+without any cargo in her, as we found by experiment that a man could
+drag about three hundred pounds on one of the sledges with more facility
+than he could drag the boat when his proportion did not exceed one
+hundred pounds. Upon these sledges we proposed lodging half our party
+alternately each night, placing them under the lee of the boat, and then
+stretching over them, as a sloped roof, a second awning, which we fitted
+for the purpose. Upon this plan we likewise could afford to make our
+boat considerably stronger, adding some stout iron knees to the supports
+of her runners, and increasing our store of materials for repairing her.
+The weight reduced by this arrangement would have been above two
+thousand pounds, without taking away any article conducive to our
+comfort, except the boat and her gear. I proposed to the officers and
+men who had been selected to accompany me this change in our equipment;
+and I need scarcely say that they all clearly saw the probable necessity
+of it, and cheerfully acquiesced in its adoption, if requisite.
+
+On the 29th I sent Lieutenants Foster and Crozier, with the greater part
+of the ship's company, and with a third or spare travelling-boat, to
+endeavour to land her on Red Beach, together with a quantity of stores,
+including provisions, as a deposite for us on our return from the
+northward, should it so happen, as was not improbable, that we should
+return to the eastward. It is impossible to describe the labour
+attending this attempt. Suffice it to say, that, after working for
+fourteen hours, they returned on board at midnight, having accomplished
+about four miles out of the six. The next day they returned to the boat,
+and, after several hours' exertion, landed her on the beach with the
+stores. What added to the fatigue of this service was the necessity of
+taking a small boat to cross pools of water on their return, so that
+they had to drag this boat both ways, besides that which they went to
+convey. Having, however, had an opportunity of trying what could be done
+upon a regular and level floe which lay close to the beach, everybody
+was of opinion, as I had always been, that we could easily travel twenty
+miles a day on ice of that kind.
+
+It will not be wondered at if the apparent hopelessness of getting the
+ship free for the present again suggested the necessity of my own
+setting out: and I had once more, on the 1st of June, after an anxious
+consultation with my officers, resolved on making a second attempt, when
+the ice near us, which had opened at regular hours with the tide for
+three or four days past, began to set us much more rapidly than usual to
+the eastward, and towards a low point which runs off from Red Beach,
+near its western end, causing us to shoal the water in a few hours from
+fifty-two to twenty fathoms, and on the following morning to fourteen
+and a half. By sending a lead-line over the ice a few hundred yards
+beyond us, we found ten fathoms water. However unfavourable the aspect
+of our affairs seemed before, this new change could not fail to alter it
+for the worse. The situation of the ship now, indeed, required my whole
+attention; for the ice occasionally opened and shut within twenty or
+twenty-five yards of us on the in-shore side, the ship herself was still
+very firmly imbedded by the turned up masses which pressed upon her on
+the 19th, and which, on the other side, as well as ahead and astern,
+were of considerable extent. Thus she formed, as it were, part of a
+floe, which went drifting about in the manner above described. This was
+of little importance while she was in sixty fathoms of water, as she was
+for the first fourteen days of our besetment, and a distance of five or
+six miles from the land; but now that she had shoaled the water so
+considerably, and approached the low point within two or three miles, it
+became a matter of importance to try whether any labour we could bestow
+upon it would liberate the ship from her present imbedded state, so as
+to be at least ready to take advantage of slack water, should any occur,
+to keep her off the shore. All hands were therefore set to work with
+handspikes, capstan-bars, and axes, it being necessary to detach every
+separate mass, however small, before the larger ones could be moved. The
+harassing and laborious nature of this operation is such as nothing but
+experience can possibly give an idea of, especially when, as in this
+case, we had only a small pool of clear water near the margin in which
+the detached pieces could be floated out. However, we continued at work,
+with only the necessary intermissions for rest and meals, during this
+and the two following days, and on the evening of the 3d had
+accomplished all that the closeness of the ice would permit; but the
+ship was still by no means free, numberless masses of ice being doubled
+under her, even below her keel, which could not be moved without more
+space for working.
+
+Painful as was this protracted delay in setting out upon the principal
+object of the expedition, the absolute necessity of it will scarcely, I
+think, be doubted by any person conversant in such matters. So long as
+the ship continued undisturbed by the ice, nearly stationary, and in
+deep water, for several days together, I had, in my anxiety to lose not
+a moment's time, ventured to flatter myself with the hope that, in a
+case of such unlooked-for emergency, when every moment of our short and
+uncertain season was of importance, I might be justified in quitting my
+ship at sea; and in this opinion the zeal of my officers, both those who
+were to accompany me and those who were to remain on board, induced them
+unanimously to concur. But the case was now materially altered; for it
+had become plain to every seaman in the ship, first, that the safety of
+the Hecla, if thus left with less than half her working hands, could not
+be reckoned upon for an hour; and, secondly, that no human foresight
+could enable us to conjecture, should we set out while she was thus
+situated, when or where we should find her on our return. In fact, it
+appeared to us at this time, as indeed it was, a very providential
+circumstance, that the impracticable nature of the ice for travelling
+had offered no encouragement to persevere in my original intention of
+setting out a week before this time.
+
+For the two following days we continued closely beset, but still driving
+to the eastward across the mouth of Weyde Bay, which is here six or
+seven miles in breadth, and appeared to be very deep, the land in the
+centre receding to a distance of full eight leagues. In the afternoon of
+the 6th, we had driven within five miles of a point of land, beyond
+which, to the eastward, it seemed to recede considerably; and this
+appearing to answer tolerably to the situation of Muscle or Mussel Bay,
+as laid down in most of the charts, I was very anxious to discover
+whether we could here find shelter for the ship. A lane of water leading
+towards the land at no great distance from us, I hauled a boat over the
+ice and then rowed on shore, accompanied by Lieutenant Foster and some
+of the other officers, taking with me another small store of provisions,
+to be deposited here, as a future resource for my party, should we
+approach this part of the coast.
+
+Landing at half past six P.M., and leaving Mr. Bird to bury the
+provisions, Lieutenant Foster and myself walked without delay to the
+eastward, and, on ascending the point, found that there was, as we had
+supposed, an indentation in the coast on the other side. We now began to
+conceive the most flattering hopes of discovering something like a
+harbour for the ship, and pushed on with all possible haste to examine
+the place farther; but, after three hours walking, were much mortified,
+on arriving at its head, to find that it was nothing but an open bay,
+entirely exposed to the inroads of all the northern ice, and therefore
+quite unfit for the ship. We returned to the boat greatly disappointed,
+and reached the Hecla at 1.30 A.M. on the 7th.
+
+I do not remember to have ever experienced in these regions such a
+continuance of beautiful weather as we now had, during more than three
+weeks that we had been on the northern coast of Spitzbergen. Day after
+day we had a clear and cloudless sky, scarcely any wind, and, with the
+exception of a few days previous to the 23d of May, a warm temperature
+in the shade, and quite a scorching sun. On the 3d of June we had a
+shower of rain, and on the 6th it rained pretty hard for two or three
+hours. After the 1st of June we could procure abundance of excellent
+water upon the ice, and by the end of the first week the floe-pieces
+were looking blue with it in some parts, and the snow had everywhere
+become too soft to bear a man's weight.
+
+On the 7th, the ship, still closely beset, had drifted much more to the
+eastward, being within a mile of the spot where the provisions had been
+deposited the preceding evening. There was now no other ice between us
+and the land except the floe to which we had been so long attached; and
+round this we were occasionally obliged to warp, whenever a little
+slackening of the ice permitted, in order to prevent our getting too
+near the rocks. In this situation of suspense and anxiety we still
+remained until the evening of the 8th, when a breeze at length springing
+up from the southward began to open out the ice from the point near
+which we lay. As soon as the channel was three or four hundred yards
+wide, we warped into the clear water, and, making sail, rounded the
+point in safety, having no soundings with twenty fathoms, at one third
+of a mile from a small rocky islet lying off it. In the mean time the
+wind had been driving the ice so fast off the land as to form for us a
+clear communication with the open water before seen to the eastward; and
+thus we were at length liberated from our confinement, after a close and
+tedious "besetment" of twenty-four days.
+
+The weather continued so thick, that, impatient as we were to stand in
+towards the eastern land, we could not venture to do so till eleven A.M.
+on the 10th, when we made sail towards Brandywine Bay, the wind being
+now from the W.S.W., or nearly dead upon that shore. The weather
+clearing up at 1.15 P.M., we saw the eastern land, and soon after
+discovered the grounded ice off Low Island; Walden's Island was also
+plainly in sight to the N.E. The bay seemed deeply indented, and very
+likely to afford nooks such as we wanted; and where so large a space of
+open water, and, consequently, some sea, had been exerting its influence
+for a considerable time, we flattered ourselves with the most sanguine
+hopes of now having access to the shores, sufficiently near, at least,
+for sawing into some place of shelter. How, then, shall I express our
+surprise and mortification in finding that the whole of the coast, from
+the islands northward to Black Point, and apparently also as far as
+Walden's Island, was rendered inaccessible by one continuous and heavy
+floe, everywhere attached to the shores, and to the numberless grounded
+masses about the island, this immense barrier being in some places six
+or seven miles in width, and not less than twelve feet in thickness near
+the margin.
+
+The prospect from our masthead at this time was certainly enough to cast
+a damp over every sanguine expectation I had formed, of being _soon_
+enabled to place the Hecla in security; and more willingly than ever
+would I, at this period, have persuaded myself, if possible, that I
+should be justified in quitting her at sea. Such, however, was the
+nature of this navigation, as regarded the combined difficulties arising
+from ice and a large extent of shoal and unsurveyed ground, that, even
+with our full complement of officers and men on board, all our strength
+and exertions might scarcely have sufficed, in a single gale of wind, to
+keep the ship tolerably secure, and much less could I have ensured
+placing her ultimately in any proper situation for picking up an absent
+party; for, if once again beset, she must, of course, be at the mercy of
+the ice. The conclusion was, therefore, irresistibly forced upon my
+mind, that thus to leave the ship would be to expose her to imminent and
+certain peril, rendering it impossible to conjecture where we should
+find her on our return, and, therefore, rashly to place all parties in a
+situation from which nothing but disaster could reasonably be expected
+to ensue.
+
+After beating through much ice, which was all of the drift or broken
+kind, and had all found its way hither in the last two days, we got into
+an open space of water in-shore, and about six miles to the northward of
+Low Island; and on the morning of the 13th stretched in towards Walden
+Island, around which we found, as we had feared, a considerable quantity
+of fixed ice. It was certainly much less here, than elsewhere; but the
+inner, or eastern side of the island was entirely enveloped by it.
+
+Having from twenty-six to twenty-four fathoms at the distance of four
+miles from Walden Island, I was preparing two boats, with the intention
+of going to sound about its northern point, which was the most clear of
+ice, and not without a faint hope of finding something like shelter
+there; but I was prevented by a thick fog coming on. Continuing,
+therefore, to beat to the northward, we passed occasionally a good deal
+of drift ice, but with every appearance of much clear water in that
+direction; and the weather clearing about midnight, we observed in
+latitude 80°43'32". The Seven Islands were in sight to the eastward, and
+the "Little Table Island" of Phipps bore E.N.E. (true) distant about
+nine or ten miles. It is a mere craggy rock, rising, perhaps, from four
+to five hundred feet above the level of the sea, and with a small low
+islet lying off its northern end. This island, being the northernmost
+known land in the world, naturally excited much of our curiosity; and
+bleak, and barren, and rugged as it is, one could not help gazing at it
+with intense interest.
+
+At midnight on the 14th we had reached the latitude 81°5'32" Our
+longitude by chronometers at this time was 19° 34' E., Little Table
+Island bearing S. 26° E. (true), distant six or seven leagues, and
+Walden Island S. 4° E.[019] The depth of water was ninety-seven fathoms,
+on a bottom of greenish mud; and the temperature at ninety-five fathoms,
+by Six's thermometer, was 29.8°, that at the surface being 31°, and of
+the air 28°. All that could here be seen to the northward was loose
+drift-ice. To the northeast it was particularly open, and I have no
+doubt that we might have gone many miles farther in that direction, had
+it not been a much more important object to keep the ship free than to
+push her to the northward.
+
+We now stood back again to the southward, in order again to examine the
+coast wherever we could approach it; but found, on the 15th, that none
+of the land was at all accessible, the wind having got round to the
+W.N.W., and loaded all the shores with drift-ice.
+
+Walden Island being the first part clear of the loose ice, we stretched
+in for it on the 16th, and, when within two miles, observed that about
+half that space was occupied by land-ice, even on its northwestern side,
+which was the only accessible one, the rest being wholly enclosed by it.
+However, being desirous of obtaining a better view than our crow's-nest
+commanded, and also of depositing here a small quantity of provisions,
+I left the ship at one P.M., accompanied by Lieutenant Foster in a
+second boat, and, landing upon the ice, walked over about three quarters
+of a mile of high and rugged hummocks to the shore. Ascending two or
+three hundred feet, we had a clear and extensive view of the Seven
+Islands, and of some land far beyond them to the eastward; and the whole
+sea was covered with one unbroken land-floe, attached to all the shores
+extending from the island where we stood, and which formed an abutment
+for it each way along the land as far as the eye could reach. After this
+discouraging prospect, which wholly destroyed every hope of finding a
+harbour among the Seven Islands, we returned to the place where the men
+had deposited the provisions, and, after making the necessary
+observations for the survey, returned immediately on board.
+
+Observing from the island that the sea was perfectly clear to the
+northward, we now stood for Little Table Island, with some slight hope
+that the rock off its northern end might afford shelter for the ship; at
+all events, being the most exposed, on account of its situation, it was
+the most likely to be free from ice. A thick fog prevented our getting
+near it till the morning of the 17th, when, having approached it within
+a mile and a half, I sent Lieutenant Ross on shore to a little islet,
+which was quite free from ice, where he deposited another small store of
+provisions, but found nothing like shelter for the ship.
+
+Having no farther business here, and the easterly wind still continuing,
+I thought the best thing we could do would be to run again to the
+southward of Low Island, and try once more to approach the shores about
+the entrance of the Waygatz Strait. We therefore bore up under all sail
+to the southwest.
+
+It would be vain to deny that I had lately begun to entertain the most
+serious apprehensions as related to the accomplishment of our principal
+object. The 17th of June had now arrived, and all that we saw afforded
+us the most discouraging prospect as to our getting the Hecla into
+harbour; while every day's experience showed how utterly rash a measure
+it would be to think of quitting her in her present situation, which,
+even with all her officers and men, was one of extreme precariousness
+and uncertainty.
+
+On the evening of the 18th, while standing in for the high land to the
+eastward of Verlegen Hook, which, with due attention to the lead, may be
+approached with safety, we perceived from the crow's-nest what appeared
+a low point, possibly affording some shelter for the ship, and which
+seemed to answer to an indentation of the coast laid down in an old
+Dutch chart, and there called _Treurenburg Bay_.
+
+On the following morning I proceeded to examine the place, accompanied
+by Lieutenant Ross in a second boat, and, to our great joy, found it a
+considerable bay, with one part affording excellent landlocked anchorage
+and, what was equally fortunate, sufficiently clear of ice to allow the
+ship to enter. Having sounded the entrance and determined on the
+anchorage, we returned to the ship to bring her in; and I cannot
+describe the satisfaction which the information of our success
+communicated to every individual on board. The main object of our
+enterprise now appeared almost within our grasp, and everybody seemed
+anxious to make up, by renewed exertions, for the time we had
+unavoidably lost. The ship was towed and warped in with the greatest
+alacrity, and at 1.40 A.M. on June 20th, we dropped the anchor in Hecla
+Cove, in thirteen fathoms, on a bottom of very tenacious blue clay, and
+made some hawsers fast to the land-ice, which still filled all the upper
+part of the bay. After resting a few hours, we sawed a canal a quarter
+of a mile in length, through which the ship was removed into a better
+situation, a bower-cable taken on shore and secured to the rocks, and an
+anchor, with the chain-cable, laid out the other way. On the morning of
+the 21st we hauled the launch up on the beach, it being my intention to
+direct such resources of every kind to be landed as would render our
+party wholly independent of the ship, either for returning to England or
+for wintering, in case of the ship being driven to sea by the ice; a
+contingency against which, in these regions, no precaution can
+altogether provide. I directed Lieutenant Foster, upon whom the charge
+of the Hecla was now to devolve, to land without delay the necessary
+stores, keeping the ship seaworthy by taking in an equal quantity of
+ballast; and, as soon as he should be satisfied of her security from
+ice, to proceed on the survey of the eastern coast; but, should he see
+reason to doubt her safety with a still farther diminution of her crew
+to relinquish the survey, and attend exclusively to the ship. I also
+gave directions that notices should be sent, in the course of the
+summer, to the various stations where our depots of provisions were
+established, acquainting me with the situation and state of the ship,
+and giving me any other information which might be necessary for my
+guidance on our return from the northward. These and other arrangements
+being completed, I left the ship at five P.M. with our two boats, which
+we named the Enterprise and Endeavour, Mr. Beverly being attached to my
+own, and Lieutenant Ross, accompanied by Mr. Bird, in the other. Besides
+these, I took Lieutenant Crozier in one of the ship's cutters, for the
+purpose of carrying some of our weight as far as Walden Island, and also
+a third store of provisions to be deposited on Low Island, as an
+intermediate station between Walden Island and the ship. As it was still
+necessary not to delay our return beyond the end of August, the time
+originally intended, I took, with me only seventy-one days provisions;
+which, including the boats and every other article, made up a weight of
+268 lbs. per man; and as it appeared highly improbable, from what we had
+seen of the very rugged nature of the ice we should first have to
+encounter, that either the reindeer, the snow-shoes, or the wheels would
+prove of any service for some time to come, I gave up the idea of taking
+them. We, however, constructed out of the snow-shoes four excellent
+sledges for dragging a part of our baggage over the ice; and these
+proved of invaluable service to us, while the rest of the things just
+mentioned would only have been an encumbrance.
+
+Having received the usual salutation of three cheers from those we left
+behind, we paddled through a quantity of loose ice at the entrance of
+the bay, and then steered, in a perfectly open sea, and with calm and
+beautiful weather, for the western part of Low Island, which we reached
+at half past two on the morning of the 22d.
+
+Having deposited the provisions, we set off at four A.M., paddling watch
+and watch, to give the people a little rest. It was still quite calm;
+but there being much ice about the island, and a thick fog coming on, we
+were several hours groping our way clear of it. The walruses were here
+very numerous, lying in herds upon the ice, and plunging into the water
+to follow us as we passed. The sound they utter is something between
+bellowing and very loud snorting, which, together with their grim,
+bearded countenances and long tusks, makes them appear, as indeed they
+are, rather formidable enemies to contend with. Under our present
+circumstances, we were very well satisfied not to molest them, for they
+would soon have destroyed our boats if one had been wounded; but I
+believe they are never the first to make the attack. We landed upon the
+ice still attached to Walden Island at 3.30 A.M. on the 23d. Our
+flat-bottomed boats rowed heavily with their loads, but proved perfectly
+safe, and very comfortable. The men being much fatigued, we rested here
+some hours, and, after making our final arrangements with Lieutenant
+Crozier, parted with him at three in the afternoon, and set off for
+Little Table Island. Finding there was likely to be so much open water
+in this neighbourhood in the autumn, I sent directions to Lieutenant
+Foster to have a spare boat deposited at Walden Island in time for our
+return, in case of any accident happening to ours.
+
+The land-ice, which still adhered to the Seven Islands, was very little
+more broken off than when the Hecla had been here a week before; and we
+rowed along its margin a part of the way to Little Table Island, where
+we arrived at ten P.M. We here examined and re-secured the provisions
+left on shore, having found our depôt at Walden Island disturbed by the
+bears. The prospect to the northward at this time was very favourable,
+there being only a small quantity of loose ice in sight; and the weather
+still continuing calm and clear, with the sea as smooth as a mirror, we
+set off without delay, at half past ten, taking our final leave of the
+Spitzbergen shores, as we hoped, for at least two months. Steering due
+north, we made good progress, our latitude by the sun's meridian
+altitude at midnight being 80° 51' 13". A beautifully-coloured rainbow
+appeared for some time, without any appearance of rain falling. We
+observed that a considerable current was setting us to the eastward just
+after leaving the land, so that we had made a N.N.E. course, distance
+about ten miles, when we met with some ice, which soon becoming too
+close for farther progress, we landed upon a high hummock to obtain a
+better view. We here perceived that the ice was close to the northward,
+but to the westward we discovered some open water, which we reached
+after two or three hours' paddling, and found it a wide expanse, in
+which we sailed to the northward without obstruction, a fresh breeze
+having sprung up from the S.W. The weather soon after became very thick,
+with continued snow, requiring great care in looking out for the ice,
+which made its appearance after two hours' run, and gradually became
+closer, till at length we were stopped by it at noon, and obliged to
+haul the boats upon a small floe-piece, our latitude by observation
+being 81° 12' 51".
+
+Our plan of travelling being nearly the same throughout this excursion,
+after we first entered upon the ice, I may at once give some account of
+our usual mode of proceeding. It was my intention to travel wholly at
+night, and to rest by day, there being, of course, constant daylight in
+these regions during the summer season. The advantages of this plan,
+which was occasionally deranged by circumstances, consisted, first, in
+our avoiding the intense and oppressive glare from the snow during the
+time of the sun's greatest altitude, so as to prevent, in some degree,
+the painful inflammation in the eyes called "snow blindness," which is
+common in all snowy countries. We also thus enjoyed greater warmth
+during the hours of rest, and had a better chance of drying our clothes;
+besides which, no small advantage was derived from the snow being harder
+at night for travelling. The only disadvantage of this plan was, that
+the fogs were somewhat more thick by night than by day, though even in
+this respect there was less difference than might have been supposed,
+the temperature during the twenty-four hours undergoing but little
+variation. This travelling by night and sleeping by day so completely
+inverted the natural order of things, that it was difficult to persuade
+ourselves of the reality. Even the officers and myself, who were all
+furnished with pocket chronometers, could not always bear in mind at
+what part of the twenty-four hours we had arrived; and there were
+several of the men who declared, and I believe truly, that they, never
+knew night from day during the whole excursion.[020]
+
+When we rose in the evening, we commenced our day by prayers, after
+which we took off our fur sleeping-dresses and put on those for
+travelling; the former being made of camlet, lined with racoon-skin, and
+the latter of strong blue box-cloth. We made a point of always putting
+on the same stockings and boots for travelling in, whether they dried
+during the day or not; and I believe it was only in five or six
+instances, at the most, that they were not either wet or hard-frozen.
+This, indeed, was of no consequence, beyond the discomforture of first
+putting them on in this state, as they were sure to be thoroughly wet in
+a quarter of an hour after commencing our journey; while, on the other
+hand, it was of vital importance to keep dry things for sleeping in.
+Being "rigged" for travelling, we breakfasted upon warm cocoa and
+biscuit, and, after stowing the things in the boats and on the sledges,
+so as to secure them as much as possible from wet, we set off on our
+day's journey, and usually travelled from five to five and a half hours,
+then stopped an hour to dine, and again travelled four, five, or even
+six hours, according to circumstances. After this we halted for the
+night, as we called it, though it was usually early in the morning,
+selecting the largest surface of ice we happened to be near for hauling
+the boats on, in order to avoid the danger of its breaking up by coming
+in contact with other masses, and also to prevent drift as much as
+possible. The boats were placed close alongside each other, with their
+sterns to the wind, the snow or wet cleared out of them, and the sails,
+supported by the bamboo masts and three paddles, placed over them as
+awnings, an entrance being left at the bow. Every man then immediately
+put on dry stockings and fur boots, after which we set about the
+necessary repairs of boats, sledges, or clothes; and, after serving the
+provisions for the succeeding day, we went to supper. Most of the
+officers and men then smoked their pipes, which served to dry the boats
+and awnings very much, and usually raised the temperature of our
+lodgings 10° or 15°. This part of the twenty-four hours was often a
+time, and the only one, of real enjoyment to us; the men told their
+stories and "fought all their battles o'er again," and the labours of
+the day, unsuccessful as they too often were, were forgotten. A regular
+watch was set during our resting-time, to look out for bears or for the
+ice breaking up round us, as well as to attend to the drying of the
+clothes, each man alternately, taking this duty for one hour. We then
+concluded our day with prayers, and, having put on our fur-dresses, lay
+down to sleep with a degree of comfort, which perhaps few persons would
+imagine possible under such circumstances; our chief inconvenience being
+that we were somewhat pinched for room, and therefore obliged to stow
+rather closer than was quite agreeable. The temperature, while we
+slept, was usually from 36° to 45°, according to the state of the
+external atmosphere; but on one or two occasions in calm and warm
+weather, it rose as high as 60° to 66°, obliging us to throw off a part
+of our fur-dress. After we had slept seven hours, the man appointed to
+boil the cocoa roused us when it was ready by the sound of a bugle, when
+we commenced our day in the manner before described.
+
+Our allowance of provisions for each man per day was as follows:
+
+
+Biscuit                 10 ounces.
+Pemmican                 9 ounces.
+Sweetened Cocoa Powder   1 ounce, to make one pint.
+Rum                      1 gill.
+Tobacco                  3 ounces per week.
+
+
+Our fuel consisted entirely of spirits of wine, of which two pints
+formed our daily allowance, the cocoa being cooked in an iron boiler
+over a shallow iron lamp, with seven wicks; a simple apparatus, which
+answered our purpose remarkably well. We usually found one pint of the
+spirits of wine sufficient for preparing our breakfast, that is, for
+heating twenty-eight pints of water, though it always commenced from the
+temperature of 32°. If the weather was calm and fair, this quantity of
+fuel brought it to the boiling point in about an hour and a quarter; but
+more generally the wicks began to go out before it had reached. 200°.
+This, however, made a very comfortable meal to persons situated as we
+were. Such, with very little variation, was our regular routine during
+the whole of this excursion.
+
+We set off on our first journey over the ice at ten P.M. on the 24th,
+Table Island bearing S.S.W., and a fresh breeze blowing from W.S.W.,
+with thick fog, which afterward changed to rain. The bags of pemmican
+were placed upon the sledges, and the bread in the boats, with the
+intention of securing the latter from wet; but this plan we were soon
+obliged to relinquish. We now commenced upon very slow and laborious
+travelling, the pieces of ice being of small extent and very rugged,
+obliging us to make three journeys, and sometimes four, with the boats
+and baggage, and to launch several times across narrow pools of water.
+We stopped to dine at five A.M. on the 25th, having made, by our log
+(which we kept very carefully, marking the courses by compass, and
+estimating the distances), about two miles and a half of northing; and,
+again setting forward, proceeded till eleven A.M., when we halted to
+rest; our latitude, by observation at noon, being 81° 15' 13".
+
+Setting out again at half past nine in the evening, we found our way to
+lie over nothing but small, loose, rugged masses of ice, separated by
+little pools of water, obliging us constantly to launch and haul up the
+boats, each of which operations required them to be unloaded, and
+occupied nearly a quarter of an hour. It came on to rain very hard on
+the morning of the 26th; and, finding we were making very little
+progress (having advanced not more than half a mile in four hours), and
+that our clothes would be soon wet through, we halted at half past one,
+and took shelter under the awnings. The weather improving at six
+o'clock, we again moved forward, and travelled till a quarter past
+eleven, when we hauled the boats upon the only tolerably large
+floe-piece in sight. The rain had very much increased the quantity of
+water lying upon the ice, of which nearly half the surface was now
+covered with numberless little ponds of various shapes and extent. It is
+a remarkable fact, that we had already experienced, in the course of
+this summer, more rain than during the whole of seven previous summers
+taken together, though passed in latitudes from 7° to 15° lower than
+this. A great deal of the ice over which we passed to-day presented a
+very curious appearance and structure, being composed, on its upper
+surface, of numberless irregular, needle-like crystals, placed
+vertically, and nearly close together; their length varying, in
+different pieces of ice, from five to ten inches, and their breadth in
+the middle about half an inch, but pointed at both ends. The upper
+surface of ice having this structure sometimes looks like greenish
+velvet; a vertical section of it, which frequently occurs at the margin
+of floes, resembles, while it remains compact, the most beautiful
+satin-spar, and asbestos when falling to pieces. At this early part of
+the season, this kind of ice afforded pretty firm footing; but, as the
+summer advanced, the needles became more loose and moveable, rendering
+it extremely fatiguing to walk over them, besides cutting our boots and
+feet, on which account the men called them "penknives."
+
+We pursued our journey at half past nine P.M., with the wind at N.E.,
+and thick weather, the ice being so much in motion as to make it very
+dangerous to cross in loaded boats, the masses being all very small. On
+this account we halted at midnight, having waded three quarters of a
+mile through water from two to five inches deep upon the ice. The
+thermometer was at 33°.
+
+At seven A.M. on the 28th, we came to a floe covered with high and
+rugged hummocks, which opposed a formidable obstacle to our progress,
+occurring in two or three successive tiers, so that we had no sooner
+crossed one than another presented itself. Over one of these we hauled
+the boats with extreme difficulty by a "standing pull," and the weather
+being then so thick that we could see no pass across the next tier, we
+were obliged to stop at nine A.M. While performing this laborious work,
+which required the boats to be got up and down places almost
+perpendicular, James Parker, my coxswain, received a severe contusion in
+his back, by the boat falling upon him from a hummock, and the boats
+were constantly subject to very heavy blows, but sustained no
+damage.[021] The weather continued very foggy during the day, but a
+small lane of water opening out at no great distance from the margin of
+the floe, we launched the boats at eight in the evening among loose
+drift-ice, and, after some time, landed on a small floe to the eastward,
+the only one in sight, with the hope of its leading to the northward. It
+proved so rugged that we were obliged to make three, and sometimes four
+journeys with the boats and provisions, and this by a very circuitous
+route; so that the road, by which we made a mile of northing, was full a
+mile and a half in length, and over this we had to travel at least five,
+and sometimes seven times. Thus, when we halted to dine at two A.M.,
+after six hours' severe toil, and much risk to the men and boats, we had
+only accomplished about a mile and a quarter in a N.N.E. direction.
+After dining we proceeded again till half past six, and then halted,
+very much fatigued with our day's work, and having made two miles and a
+half of northing. We were here in latitude, by account, 81° 23", and in
+longitude, by the chronometers, 21° 32' 34" E., in which situation the
+variation of the magnetic needle was observed to be 15° 31' westerly. We
+now enjoyed the first sunshine since our entering the ice, and a great
+enjoyment it was, after so much thick and wet weather. We rose at half
+past four P.M., in the hopes of pursuing our journey; but, after hauling
+the boats to the edge of the floe, found such a quantity of loose,
+rugged ice to the northward of us, that there was no possibility, for
+the present, of getting across or through it. Observing a small opening
+at 10.30 P.M., we launched the boats, and hauled them across several
+pieces of ice, some of them being very light and much decayed. Our
+latitude, by the sun's meridian altitude at midnight, was 81° 23'; so
+that we had made only eight miles of northing since our last observation
+at noon on the 25th.
+
+The 30th commenced with snowy and inclement weather, which soon rendered
+the atmosphere so thick that we could no longer see our way, obliging us
+to halt till two P.M., when we crossed several small pools with great
+labour and loss of time. We had generally very light ice this day, with
+some heavy, rugged pieces intermixed; and, when hauling across these, we
+had sometimes to cut with axes a passage for the boats among the
+hummocks. We also dragged them through a great many pools of fresh
+water, to avoid the necessity of going round them. The wind freshening
+up from the S.S.W., we afterward found the ice gradually more and more
+open, so that, in the course of the day, we made by rowing, though by a
+very winding channel, five miles of northing; but were again stopped by
+the ice soon after midnight, and obliged to haul up on the first mass
+that we could gain, the ice having so much motion that we narrowly
+escaped being "nipped." We set out at 11.30 A.M. on the 1st July, the
+wind still fresh from the S.W., and some snow falling: but it was more
+than an hour before we could get away from the small pieces of ice on
+which we slept, the masses beyond being so broken up and so much in
+motion, that we could not, at first, venture to launch the boats. Our
+latitude, observed at noon, was 81° 30' 41". After crossing several
+pieces, we at length got into a good "lead" of water, four or five miles
+in length; two or three of which, as on the preceding day, occurred
+under the lee of a floe, being the second we had yet seen that deserved
+that name. We then passed over four or five small floes, and across the
+pools of water that lay between them. The ice was now less broken up,
+and sometimes tolerably level; but from six to eighteen inches of soft
+snow lay upon it in every part, making the travelling very fatiguing,
+and obliging us to make at least two, and sometimes three, journeys
+with our loads. We now found it absolutely necessary to lighten the boat
+as much as possible, by putting the bread-bags on the sledges, on
+account of the "runners" of the boats sinking so much deeper into the
+snow; but our bread ran a great risk of being wetted by this plan.
+
+We halted at eleven P.M. on the 1st, having traversed from ten to eleven
+miles, and made good, by our account, seven and half in a N.b.W.
+direction. We again set forward at ten A.M. on the 2d, the weather being
+calm, and the sun oppressively warm, though with a thick fog. The
+temperature in the shade was 35° at noon, and only 47° in the sun; but
+this, together with the glare from the snow, produced so painful a
+sensation in most of our eyes, as to make it necessary to halt at one
+P.M., to avoid being blinded. We therefore took advantage of this warm
+weather to let the men wash themselves, and mend and dry their clothes,
+and then set out again at half past three. The snow was, however, so
+soft as to take us up to our knees at almost every other step, and
+frequently still deeper; so that we were sometimes five minutes together
+in moving a single empty boat, with all our united strength. It being
+impossible to proceed under these circumstances, I determined to fall
+into our night-travelling again, from which we had of late insensibly
+deviated. We therefore halted at half past five, the weather being now
+very clear and warm, and many of the people's eyes beginning to fail. We
+did not set out again till after midnight, with the intention of giving
+the snow time to harden after so warm a day; but we found it still so
+soft as to make the travelling very fatiguing. Our way lay at first
+across a number of loose pieces, most of which were from five to twenty
+yards apart, or just sufficiently separated to give us all the labour of
+launching and hauling up the boats, without the advantage of making any
+progress by water; while we crossed, in other instances, from mass to
+mass, by laying the boats over as bridges, by which the men and the
+baggage passed. By these means, we at length reached a floe about a mile
+in length, in a northern direction; but it would be difficult to convey
+an adequate idea of the labour required to traverse it. The average
+depth of snow upon the level parts was about five inches, under which
+lay water four or five inches deep; but, the moment we approached a
+hummock, the depth to which we sank increased to three feet or more,
+rendering it difficult at times to obtain sufficient footing for one leg
+to enable us to extricate the other. The pools of fresh water had now
+also become very large, some of them being a quarter of a mile in
+length, and their depth above our knees. Through these we were prevented
+taking the sledges, for fear of wetting all our provisions; but we
+preferred transporting the boats across them, notwithstanding the severe
+cold of the snow-water, the bottom being harder for the "runners" to
+slide upon. On this kind of road we were, in one instance, above two
+hours in proceeding a distance of one hundred yards.
+
+We halted at half past six A.M. to dine; and to empty our boots and
+wring our stockings, which, to our feelings, was almost like putting on
+dry ones; and again set out in an hour, getting at length into a "lane"
+of water a mile and a quarter long, in a N.N.E. direction. We halted for
+the night at half an hour before midnight, the people being almost
+exhausted with a laborious day's work, and our distance made good to the
+northward not exceeding two miles and a quarter. We allowed ourselves
+this night a hot supper, consisting of a pint of soup per man, made of
+an ounce of pemmican each, and eight or ten birds, which we had killed
+in the course of the last week; and this was a luxury which persons thus
+situated could perhaps alone duly appreciate.
+
+We rose and breakfasted at nine P.M.; but the weather had gradually
+become so inclement and thick, with snow, sleet, and a fresh breeze from
+the eastward, that we could neither have seen our way, nor have avoided
+getting wet through had we moved. We therefore remained under cover; and
+it was as well that we did so, for the snow soon after changed to heavy
+rain, and the wind increased to a fresh gale, which unavoidably detained
+us till 7.30 P.M. on the 4th. The rain had produced even a greater
+effect than the sun in softening the snow. Lieutenant Ross and myself,
+in performing our pioneering duty, were frequently so beset in it, that
+sometimes, after trying in vain to extricate our legs, we were obliged
+to sit quietly down for a short time to rest ourselves and then make
+another attempt; and the men, in dragging the sledges, were often under
+the necessity of crawling upon all-fours to make any progress at all.
+Nor would any kind of snow-shoes have been of the least service, but
+rather an encumbrance to us, for the surface was so irregular, that they
+would have thrown us down at every other step. We had hitherto made use
+of the Lapland shoes, or _kamoogas_, for walking in, which are excellent
+for dry snow; but there being now so much water upon the ice, we
+substituted the Esquimaux boots, which had been made in Greenland
+expressly for our use, and which are far superior to any others for this
+kind of travelling. Just before halting, at six A.M. on the 5th, the ice
+at the margin of the floe broke while the men were handing the
+provisions out of the boats; and we narrowly escaped the loss of a bag
+of cocoa, which fell overboard, but fortunately rested on a "tongue."
+The bag being made of Mackintosh's waterproof canvass, the cocoa did not
+suffer the slightest injury.
+
+We rose at five P.M., the weather being clear and fine, with a moderate
+breeze from the south; no land was in sight from the highest hummocks,
+nor could we perceive anything but broken loose ice in any direction. We
+hauled across several pieces which were scarcely fit to bear the weight
+of the boats, and in such cases used the precaution of dividing our
+baggage, so that, in case of the ice breaking or turning over, we should
+not lose all at once. The farther we proceeded, the more the ice was
+broken; indeed, it was much more so here than we had found it since
+first entering the "pack." After stopping at midnight to dine and to
+obtain the meridian altitude, we passed over a floe full of hummocks, a
+mile and a half in length; but any kind of floe was relief to us after
+the constant difficulty we had experienced in passing over loose ice.
+
+After several hours of very beautiful weather, a thick fog came on
+early on the morning of the 6th July, and at five A.M. we halted, having
+got to the end of the floe, and only made good two miles and a half to
+the northward. The fog continued very thick all day; but, being
+unwilling to stop on this account, we set out again at half past six in
+the evening, and passed over several small flat pieces with no great
+difficulty, but with much loss of time in launching and hauling up the
+boats. Towards the end of our day's journey, we landed on the only
+really level floe we had yet met with. It was, however, only three
+quarters of a mile in length, but, being almost clear of snow, afforded
+such good travelling, that, although much fatigued at the time, we
+hauled the boats and all the baggage across it at one journey, at the
+rate of about two miles an hour, and halted at the northern margin at
+five A.M. on the 7th. The prospect beyond was still very unfavourable,
+and at eight in the evening, when we again launched the boats, there was
+not a piece of large or level ice to be seen in a northern direction.
+
+We halted at six A.M. on the 8th, in time to avoid a great deal of rain
+which fell during the day, and again proceeded on our journey at eight
+in the evening, the wind being fresh from the E.S.E., with thick, wet
+weather. We now met with detached ice of a still lighter kind than
+before, the only floe in sight being much to the eastward of our course.
+This we reached after considerable labour, in the hope of its leading to
+the northward, which it did for about one mile, and we then came to the
+same kind of loose ice as before. On the morning of the 9th July, we
+enjoyed the indescribable comfort of two or three hours' clear, dry
+weather, but had scarcely hung up our wet clothes, after halting at five
+A.M., when it again came on to rain; but, as everything was as wet as it
+could be, we left them out to take their chance. The rain continued most
+of the day, but we set out at half past seven P.M., crossing loose ice,
+as usual, and much of the surface consisting of detached vertical
+needles. After an hour, the rain became so heavy that we halted to save
+our shirts, which were the only dry clothes' belonging to us. Soon after
+midnight, the rain being succeeded by one of the thickest fogs I ever
+saw, we again proceeded, groping our way almost yard by yard from one
+small piece of ice to another, and were very fortunate in hitting upon
+some with level surfaces, and also a few tolerable-sized holes of water.
+At half past two we reached a floe which appeared at first a level and
+large one; but, on landing, we were much mortified to find it so covered
+with immense ponds, or, rather, small lakes of fresh water, that, to
+accomplish two miles in a north direction, we were under the necessity
+of walking from three to four, the water being too deep for wading, and
+from two hundred yards to one third of a mile in length. We halted at
+six A.M., having made only one mile and three quarters in a N.N.W.
+direction, the wind still blowing fresh from the eastward, with a thick
+fog. We were in latitude 82° 3' 19", and longitude, by chronometers, 23°
+17' E., and we found the variation of the magnetic needle to be 13° 41'
+westerly. We moved again at seven P.M., with the weather nearly as foggy
+as before, our road lying across a very hummocky floe, on which we had
+considerable difficulty in getting the boats, the ice being extremely
+unfavourable both for launching and hauling them up. After stopping an
+hour at midnight to dine, we were again annoyed by a heavy fall of rain,
+a phenomenon almost as new to us in these regions until this summer, as
+it was harassing and unhealthy. Being anxious, however, to take
+advantage of a lane of water that seemed to lead northerly, we launched
+the boats, and by the time that we had crossed it, which gave us only
+half a mile of northing, the rain had become much harder, and our outer
+clothes, bread bags, and boats were thoroughly wet. After this we had
+better travelling on the ice, and also crossed one or two larger holes
+of water than we had met with for a long time, and halted for our
+night's rest at half past seven A.M., after nearly twelve hours' hard,
+but not altogether unsuccessful labour, having traversed about twelve
+miles, and made good by our account, seven and a half, in a N.W.b.N.
+direction. The rain ceased soon after we had halted, but was succeeded,
+by a thick, wet fog, which obliged us, when we continued our journey, to
+put on our travelling clothes in the same dripping state as when we took
+them off. The wind continued fresh from the southeastward, and at nine
+P.M. the weather suddenly cleared up, and gave us once more the
+inconceivably cheering, I had almost said the blessed, sight of a blue
+sky, with hard, well-defined white clouds floating across it. We halted
+at six A.M., after making, by our day's exertions, only three miles and
+a half of northing, our latitude at this time being 82° 14' 28", and our
+longitude, by chronometers, 22° 4' E. The thermometer was from 35° to
+36° in the shade during most of the day, and this, with a clear sky over
+head, was now absolute luxury to us. Setting out again at seven P.M., we
+crossed a small lane of water to another floe; but this was so
+intersected by ponds, and by streams running into the sea, that we had
+to make a very circuitous route, some of the ponds being half-a mile in
+length. Notwithstanding the immense quantity of water still upon the
+ice, and which always afforded us a pure and abundant supply of this
+indispensable article, we now observed a mark round the banks of all the
+ponds, showing that the water was less deep in them, by several inches,
+than it had been somewhat earlier in the summer; and, indeed, from about
+this time, some small diminution in its quantity began to be perceptible
+to ourselves. We halted for our resting-time at six A.M. on the 13th,
+having gained only two miles and a half of northing, over a road of
+about four, and this accomplished by ten hours of fatiguing exertion. We
+were here in latitude, by the noon observation, 82° 17' 10", and could
+find no bottom with four hundred fathoms of line. We launched the boats
+at seven in the evening, the wind being moderate from the E.S.E., with
+fine, clear weather, and were still mortified in finding that no
+improvement took place in the road over which we had to travel; for the
+ice now before us was, if possible, more broken up and more difficult to
+pass over than ever. Much of it was also so thin as to be extremely
+dangerous for the provisions; and it was often a nervous thing to see
+our whole means of existence lying on a decayed sheet, having holes
+quite through it in many parts, and which the smallest motion among the
+surrounding masses might have instantly broken into pieces. There was,
+however, no choice, except between this road and the more rugged though
+safer hummocks, which cost ten times the labour to pass over. Mounting
+one of the highest of these at nine P.M., we could discover nothing to
+the north, ward but the same broken and irregular surface; and we now
+began to doubt whether we should at all meet with the solid fields of
+unbroken ice which every account had led us to expect in a much lower
+latitude than this. A very strong, yellow ice-blink overspread the whole
+northern horizon.
+
+We stopped to dine at half an hour past midnight, after more than five
+hours unceasing labour, in the course of which time we had only
+accomplished a mile and a half due north, though we had traversed from
+three to four, and walked at least ten, having made three journeys a
+great part of the way. We had launched and hauled up the boats four
+times, and dragged them over twenty-five separate pieces of ice. After
+dinner we continued the same kind of travelling, which was, beyond all
+description, harrassing to the officers and men. In crossing from mass
+to mass, several of which were separated about half the length of our
+sledges, the officers were stationed at the most difficult places to see
+that no precaution, was omitted which could ensure the safety of the
+provisions. Only one individual was allowed to jump over at a time, or
+to stand near either margin, for fear of the weight being too great for
+it; and when three or four men had separately crossed, the sledge was
+cautiously drawn up to the edge, and the word being given, the men
+suddenly ran away with the ropes, so as to allow no time for its
+falling in if the ice should break. Having at length succeeded in
+reaching a small floe, we halted at half past six A.M., much wearied by
+nearly eleven hours' exertion, by which we had only advanced three miles
+and a half in a N.N.W. direction. We rose at six P.M., and prepared to
+set out, but it rained so hard and so incessantly that it would have
+been impossible to move without a complete drenching. It held up a
+little at five, and at six we set out; but the rain soon recommenced,
+though less heavily than before. At eight the rain again became heavier,
+and we got under shelter of our awnings for a quarter of an hour, to
+keep our shirts and other flannel clothes dry; these being the only
+things we now had on which were not thoroughly wet. At nine we did the
+same, but before ten were obliged to halt altogether, the rain coming
+down in torrents, and the men being much exhausted by continued wet and
+cold, though the thermometer was at 36°, which was somewhat above our
+usual temperature. At half past seven P.M. we again pursued our journey,
+and, after much laborious travelling, we were fortunate, considering the
+fog, in hitting upon a floe which proved the longest we had yet crossed,
+being three miles from south to north, though alternately rugged and
+flat. From this we launched into a lane of water half a mile long from
+east to west, but which only gave us a hundred and fifty yards of
+northing.
+
+The floe on which we stopped to dine, at one A.M. on the 16th, was not
+more than four feet thick, and its extent half a mile square; and on
+this we had the rare advantage of carrying all our loads at one journey.
+At half past six the fog cleared away, and gave us beautiful weather
+for drying our clothes, and once more the cheerful sight of the blue
+sky. We halted at half past seven, after being twelve hours on the road,
+having made a N.b.W. course, distance only six miles and a quarter,
+though we had traversed nine miles. We saw, during this last journey, a
+mallemucke and a second Ross gull: and a couple of small flies (to us an
+event of ridiculous importance) were found upon the ice.
+
+We again pursued our way at seven in the evening, having the unusual
+comfort of putting on dry stockings, and the no less rare luxury of
+delightfully pleasant weather, the wind being moderate from the S.S.E.
+It was so warm in the sun, though the temperature in the shade was only
+35°, that the tar was running out of the seams of the boats; and a
+blackened bulb held against the paint-work raised the thermometer to
+72°. The floes were larger to-day, and the ice, upon the whole, of
+heavier dimensions than any we had yet met with. The general thickness
+of the floes, however, did not exceed nine or ten feet, which is not
+more than the usual thickness of those in Baffin's Bay and Hudson's
+Strait.
+
+The 17th of July being one of the days on which the Royal Society of
+Edinburgh have proposed to institute a series of simultaneous
+meteorological observations, we commenced an hourly register of every
+phenomenon which came under our notice, and which our instruments and
+other circumstances would permit, and continued most of them throughout
+the day. Our latitude, observed at noon, was 82° 32' 10", being more
+than a mile to the southward of the reckoning, though the wind had been
+constantly from that quarter during the twenty-four hours.
+
+After midnight the road became, if possible, worse, and the prospect to
+the northward more discouraging than before; nothing but loose and very
+small pieces of ice being in sight, over which the boats were dragged
+almost entirely by a "standing-pull." The men were so exhausted with
+their day's work, that it was absolutely necessary to give them
+something hot for supper, and we again served a little cocoa for that
+purpose. They were also put into good spirits by our having killed a
+small seal, which, the following night, gave us an excellent supper. The
+meat of these young animals is tender, and free from oiliness; but it
+certainly has a smell and a look which would not have been agreeable to
+any but very hungry people like ourselves. We also considered it a great
+prize on account of its blubber, which gave us fuel sufficient for
+cooking six hot messes for our whole party, though the animal only
+weighed thirty pounds in the whole.
+
+Setting out at half past seven in the evening, we found the sun more
+distressing to the eyes than we had ever yet had it, bidding defiance to
+our crape veils and wire-gauze eye-shades;[022] but a more effectual
+screen was afforded by the sun becoming clouded about nine P.M. At half
+past nine we came to a very difficult crossing among the loose ice,
+which, however, we were encouraged to attempt by seeing a floe of some
+magnitude beyond it. We had to convey the sledges and provisions one
+way, and to haul the boats over by another. One of the masses over which
+the boats came began to roll about while one of them was upon it, giving
+us reason to apprehend its upsetting, which must have been attended with
+some very serious consequence: fortunately, however, it retained its
+equilibrium long enough to allow us to get the boat past it in safety,
+not without several of the men falling overboard, in consequence of the
+long jumps we had to make, and the edges breaking with their weight.
+
+On the morning of the 20th we came to a good deal of ice, which formed a
+striking contrast with the other, being composed of flat bay-floes, not
+three feet thick, which would have afforded us good travelling had they
+not recently been broken into small pieces, obliging us to launch
+frequently from one to another. These floes had been the product of the
+last winter only, having probably been formed in some of the interstices
+left between the larger bodies; and, from what we saw of them, there
+could be little doubt of their being all dissolved before the next
+autumnal frost. We halted at seven A.M., having, by our reckoning,
+accomplished six miles and a half in a N.N.W. direction, the distance
+traversed being ten miles and a half. It may therefore be imagined how
+great was our mortification in finding that our latitude, by observation
+at noon, was only 82° 36' 52", being less than _five_ miles to the
+northward of our place at noon on the 17th, since which time we had
+certainly travelled _twelve_ in that direction.
+
+At five A.M. on the 21st, having gone ahead, as usual, upon a bay-floe,
+to search for the best road, I heard a more than ordinary noise and
+bustle among the people who were bringing up the boats behind. On
+returning to them, I found that we had narrowly, and most
+providentially, escaped a serious calamity; the floe having broken under
+the weight of the boats and sledges, and the latter having nearly been
+lost through the ice. Some of the men went completely through, and one
+of them was only held up by his drag-belt being attached to a sledge
+which happened to be on firmer ice. Fortunately the bread had, by way of
+security, been kept in the boats, or this additional weight would
+undoubtedly have sunk the sledges, and probably some of the men with
+them. As it was, we happily escaped, though we hardly knew how, with a
+good deal of wetting; and, cautiously approaching the boats, drew them
+to a stronger part of the ice, after which we continued our journey till
+half past six A.M., when we halted to rest, having travelled about seven
+miles N.N.W., our longitude by chronometers being 19° 52' east, and the
+latitude 82° 39' 10", being only two miles and a quarter to the
+northward of the preceding day's observation, or four miles and a half
+to the southward of our reckoning.
+
+Our sportsmen had the good fortune to kill another seal to-day, rather
+larger than the first, which again proved a most welcome addition to our
+provisions and fuel. Indeed, after this supply of the latter, we were
+enabled to allow ourselves every night a pint of warm water for supper,
+each man making his own soup from such a portion of his bread and
+pemmican as he could save from dinner. Setting out again at seven in the
+evening, we were not sorry to find the weather quite calm, which
+sailors account "half a fair wind;" for it was now evident that nothing
+but a southerly breeze could enable us to make any tolerable progress,
+or to regain what we had lately lost.
+
+Our travelling to-night was the very best we had during this excursion;
+for though we had to launch and haul up the boats frequently, an
+operation which, under the most favourable circumstances, necessarily
+occupies much time, yet the floes being large and tolerably level, and
+some good lanes of water occurring, we made, according to the most
+moderate calculation, between ten and eleven miles in a N.N.E.
+direction, and traversed a distance of about seventeen. We halted at a
+quarter past eight A.M. after more than twelve hours' actual travelling,
+by which the people were extremely fatigued; but, while our work seemed
+to be repaid by anything like progress, the men laboured with great
+cheerfulness to the utmost of their strength. The ice over which we had
+travelled was by far the largest and heaviest we met with during our
+whole journey; this, indeed, was the only occasion on which we saw
+anything answering in the slightest degree to the descriptions given of
+the main ice. The largest floe was from two and a half to three miles
+square, and in some places the thickness of the ice was from 15 to 20
+feet. However, it was a satisfaction to observe that the ice had
+certainly improved; and we now ventured to hope that, for the short time
+that we could still pursue our outward journey, our progress would be
+more commensurate with our exertions than it had hitherto proved. In
+proportion, then, to the hopes we had begun to entertain, was our
+disappointment in finding, at noon, that we were in latitude 82° 43' 5",
+or not quite four miles to the northward of yesterday's observation,
+instead of the ten or eleven which we had travelled! We halted at seven
+A.M. on the 23d, after a laborious day's work, and, I must confess, a
+disheartening one to those who knew to how little effect we were
+struggling; which, however, the men did not, though they often
+laughingly remarked that "we were a long time getting to this 83°!"
+Being anxious to make up, in some measure, for the drift which the
+present northerly wind was in all probability occasioning, we rose
+earlier than usual, and set off at half past four in the evening. At
+half past five P.M. we saw a very beautiful natural phenomenon. A broad
+white fog-bow first appeared opposite the sun, as was very commonly the
+case; presently it became strongly tinged with, the prismatic colours,
+and soon afterward no less than five other complete arches were formed
+within the main bow, the interior ones being gradually narrower than
+those without, but the whole of them beautifully coloured. The larger
+bow, and the one next within it, had the red on the outer or upper part
+of the circle, the others on the inner side.
+
+We halted at a quarter past three on the morning of the 24th, having
+made four miles and a half N.N.E., over a road of about seven and a
+half, most of which we traversed, as usual, three times. We moved again
+at four P.M. over a difficult road, composed of small and rugged ice. So
+small was the ice now around us, that we were obliged to halt for the
+night at two A.M. on the 25th, being upon the only piece in sight, in
+any direction, on which we could venture to trust the boats while we
+rested. Such was the ice in the latitude of 82-3/4°.
+
+The wind had now got round to the W.N.W., with raw, foggy weather, and
+continued to blow fresh all day. Snow came on soon after our halting,
+and about two inches had fallen when we moved again at half past four
+P.M. We continued our journey in this inclement weather for three hours,
+hauling from piece to piece, and not making more than three quarters of
+a mile progress, till our clothes and bread-bags had become very wet,
+and the snow fell so thick that we could no longer see our way. It was
+therefore necessary to halt, which we did at half past seven, putting
+the awnings over the boats, changing our wet clothes, and giving the men
+employment for the mere sake of occupying their minds. The weather
+improving towards noon on the 26th, we obtained the meridian altitude of
+the sun, by which we found ourselves in latitude 82° 40' 23"; so that,
+since our last observation (at midnight on the 22d), we had lost by
+drift no less than thirteen miles and a half; for we were now more than
+three miles to the _southward_ of that observation, though we had
+certainly travelled between ten and eleven due north in this interval!
+Again, we were but one mile to the north of our place at noon on the
+21st, though we had estimated our distance made good at twenty-three
+miles. Thus it appeared that for the last five days we had been
+struggling against a southerly drift exceeding four miles per day.
+
+It had, for some time past, been too evident that the nature of the ice
+with which we had to contend was such, and its drift to the southward,
+especially with a northerly wind, so great, as to put beyond our reach
+anything but a very moderate share of success in travelling to the
+northward. Still, however, we had been anxious to reach the highest
+latitude which our means would allow, and with this view, although our
+whole object had long become unattainable, had pushed on to the
+northward for thirty-five days, or until half our resources were
+expended, and the middle of our season arrived. For the last few days
+the eighty-third parallel was the limit to which we had ventured to
+extend our hopes; but even this expectation had become considerably
+weakened since the setting in of the last northerly wind, which
+continued to drive us to the southward, during the necessary hours of
+rest, nearly as much as we could gain by eleven or twelve hours of daily
+labour. Had our success been at all proportionate to our exertions, it
+was my full intention to proceed a few days beyond the middle of the
+period for which we were provided, trusting to the resources we expected
+to find at Table Island. But I could not but consider it as incurring
+useless fatigue to the officers and men, and unnecessary wear and tear
+for the boats, to persevere any longer in the attempt. I determined,
+therefore, on giving the people one entire day's rest, which they very
+much needed, and time to wash and mend their clothes, while the officers
+were occupied in making all the observations which might be interesting
+in this latitude; and then to set out on our return on the following
+day. Having communicated my intentions to the people, who were all much
+disappointed at finding how little their labours had effected, we set
+about our respective occupations, and were much favoured by a remarkably
+fine day.
+
+The highest latitude we reached was probably at seven A.M. on the 23d,
+when, after the midnight observation, we travelled, by our account,
+something more than a mile and a half, which would carry us a little
+beyond 82° 45'. Some observations for the magnetic intensity were
+obtained at this station. We here found no bottom with five hundred
+fathoms of line. At the extreme point of our journey, our distance from
+the Hecla was only 172 miles in a S. 8° W. direction. To accomplish this
+distance, we had traversed, by our reckoning, 292 miles, of which about
+100 were performed by water, previous to our entering the ice. As we
+travelled by far the greater part of our distance on the ice three, and
+not unfrequently five, times over, we may safely multiply the length of
+the road by two and a half; so that our whole distance, on a very
+moderate calculation, amounted to 580 geographical or 668 statute miles,
+being nearly sufficient to have reached the Pole in a direct line.
+
+Our day of rest (27th of July) proved one of the warmest and most
+pleasant to the feelings we had yet had upon the ice, though the
+thermometer was only from 31° to 36° in the shade, and 37° in the sun,
+with occasional fog; but to persons in the open air, calm and tolerably
+dry weather affords absolute enjoyment, especially by contrast with what
+we had lately experienced. Our ensigns and pendants were displayed
+during the day; and, sincerely as we regretted not having been able to
+hoist the British flag in the highest latitude to which we had aspired,
+we shall perhaps be excused in having felt some little pride in being
+the bearers of it to a parallel considerably beyond that mentioned in
+any other well-authenticated record.
+
+At 4.30 P.M. on the 27th, we set out on our return to the southward, and
+I can safely say that, dreary and cheerless as were the scenes we were
+about to leave, we never turned homeward with so little satisfaction as
+on this occasion. To afford a chance of determining the general set of
+the current from this latitude, we left upon a hummock of ice a paper,
+sewn up in a water-proof canvass bag, and then enclosed in a water-tight
+tin canister, giving an account of the place where it was deposited, and
+requesting any person who should find it to send it to the secretary of
+the admiralty. Nothing worthy of particular notice occurred on this and
+the following day, on each of which we travelled eleven hours; finding
+the water somewhat more open and the floes less rugged than usual. Two
+of these were from two to three miles in length, and in one instance the
+surface was sufficiently level to allow us to drag the boats for three
+quarters of a mile with the sledges _in tow_. Our latitude, observed at
+noon of the 30th, was 82° 20' 37", or twelve miles and a half to the
+southward of the preceding day's observation, though we had travelled
+only seven by our account; so that the drift of the ice had assisted us
+in gaining five miles and a half in that interval.
+
+Setting out to continue our journey at five P.M., we could discover
+nothing from a high hummock but the kind of bay-ice before noticed,
+except on the floe on which we had slept. The travelling was very
+laborious, but we were obliged to go on till we could get to a secure
+floe for resting upon, which we could not effect till half past four on
+the 31st, when, in eleven hours and a half, we had not made more than
+two miles and a quarter of southing. However, we had the satisfaction,
+which was denied us on our outward journey, of feeling confident that we
+should keep all that we gained, and probably make a good deal more;
+which, indeed, proved to be the case, for at noon we found our latitude,
+by observation, to be 82° 14' 25", or four miles to the southward of the
+reckoning.
+
+We halted at five A.M. on the 1st of August, the officers and men being
+quite knocked up, and having made by our account only two miles of
+southing over a road not less than five in length. As we came along we
+had seen some recent bear-tracks, and soon after discovered Bruin
+himself. Halting the boats and concealing the people behind them, we
+drew him almost within gun-shot; but, after making a great many
+traverses behind some hummocks, and even mounting one of them to examine
+us more narrowly, he set off and escaped--I must say, to our grievous
+disappointment; for we had already, by anticipation, consigned a
+tolerable portion of his flesh to our cooking kettle, over a fire of his
+own blubber.
+
+In the course of our journey, on the 2d of August, we met with a
+quantity of snow, tinged, to the depth of several inches, with some red
+colouring matter, of which a portion was preserved in a bottle for
+future examination. This circumstance recalled to our recollection our
+having frequently before, in the course of this journey, remarked that
+the loaded sledges, in passing over hard snow, left upon it a light,
+rose-coloured tint, which, at the time, we attributed to the colouring
+matter being pressed out of the birch of which they were made. Today,
+however, we observed that the runners of the, boats, and even our own
+footsteps, exhibited the same appearance; and, on watching it more
+narrowly afterward, we found the same effect to be produced, in a
+greater or less degree, by heavy pressure, on almost all the ice over
+which we passed, though a magnifying glass could detect nothing to give
+it this tinge. Halting at seven A.M. on the 3d, after launching and
+hauling up the boats a great number of times, we had not only the
+comfort of drying all our wet clothes, but were even able to wash many
+of our woollen things, which dried in a few hours. The latitude observed
+at noon was 82° 1' 48", or twelve miles and a half, to the southward of
+our place on the 31st, which was about three more than our log gave,
+though there had been southing in the wind during the whole interval.
+
+We proceeded on our journey southward at eight P.M., and were again
+favoured with a clear and beautiful night, though the travelling was as
+slow and laborious as ever, there being scarcely a tolerable floe lying
+in our road. The sun now became so much lower at night, that we were
+seldom annoyed by the glare from the snow. It was also a very
+comfortable change to those who had to look out for the road, to have
+the sun behind us instead of facing it, as on our outward journey. We
+stopped to rest at a quarter past six A.M. on the 4th, after
+accomplishing three miles in a south direction, over a troublesome road
+of nearly twice that length. It was almost calm, and to our feelings
+oppressively warm during the day, the thermometer within the boats
+rising as high as 66°, which put our fur dresses nearly "out of
+commission," though the mercury exposed to the sun outside did not rise
+above 39°. Pursuing our journey at eight P.M., we paid, as usual, for
+this comfort by the extreme softness of the snow. The upper crust would
+sometimes support a man's weight for a short time, and then suddenly let
+him down two or three feet, so that we could never make sure of our
+footing for two steps together. Several of the men were also suffering
+much at this time from chilblains, which, from the constant wet and
+cold, as well as the irritation in walking, became serious sores,
+keeping them quite lame. With many of our people, also, the epidermis or
+scarfskin peeled off in large flakes, not merely in the face and hands,
+which were exposed to the action of the sun and the weather, but in
+every other part of the body; this, however, was attended with no pain,
+nor with much inconvenience.
+
+A fat bear crossed over a lane of water to visit us, and, approaching
+the boats within twenty yards, was killed by Lieutenant Ross. The scene
+which followed was laughable, even to us who participated in it. Before
+the animal had done biting the snow, one of the men was alongside of him
+with an open knife; and, being asked what he was about to do, replied
+that he was about cut out his heart and liver to put into the pot, which
+happened to be then boiling for our supper. In short, before the bear
+had been dead an hour, all hands of us were employed, to our great
+satisfaction, in discussing the merits, not only of the said heart and
+liver, but a pound per man of the flesh; besides which, some or other of
+the men were constantly frying steaks during the whole day, over a large
+fire made of the blubber. The consequence of all this, and other similar
+indulgences, necessarily was, that some of them complained, for several
+days after, of the pains usually arising from indigestion; though they
+all, amusingly enough, attributed this effect to the quality, and not
+the quantity of meat they had eaten. However, notwithstanding these
+excesses at first, we were really thankful for this additional supply of
+meat; for we had observed for some time past, that the men were
+evidently not so strong as before, and would be the better for more
+sustenance.
+
+The rain continued so hard at our usual time of setting out, that I was
+obliged to delay doing so till six P.M. on the 8th, when it ceased a
+little, after falling hard for twenty-four hours, and less violently for
+twelve more. When we first launched the boats, our prospect of making
+progress seemed no better than usual, but we found one small hole of
+water leading into another in so extraordinary a manner, that, though
+the space in which we were rowing seemed always to be coming to an end,
+we continued to creep through narrow passages, and, when we halted to
+dine at half an hour before midnight, had only hauled the boats up once,
+and had made, though by a winding channel, four or five miles of
+southing. This was so unusual a circumstance, that we could not help
+entertaining some hope of our being at no great distance from the open
+sea, which seemed the more probable from our having seen seven or eight
+narwhals, and not less than two hundred rotges, a flock of these little
+birds occurring in every hole of water. At noon on the 10th of August,
+we observed in latitude 81° 40' 13", which was only four miles to the
+northward of our reckoning from the last observation, although there had
+been almost constantly southing in the wind ever since, and it had been
+blowing strong from that quarter for the last thirty hours. This
+circumstance afforded a last and striking proof of the general tendency
+of the ice to drift southward, about the meridians on which we had been
+travelling. Another bear came towards the boats in the course of the
+day, and was killed. We were now so abundantly supplied with meat, that
+the men would again have eaten immoderately had we not interposed the
+necessary authority to prevent them. As it was, our encampment became so
+like an Esquimaux establishment, that we were obliged to shift our place
+upon the floe in the course of the day, for the sake of cleanliness and
+comfort.
+
+The wind falling towards midnight, we launched the boats at half past
+one A.M. on the 11th, paddling alternately in large spaces of clear
+water and among streams of loose "sailing ice." We soon afterward
+observed such indications of an open sea as could not be mistaken, much
+of the ice being "washed" as by a heavy sea, with small rounded
+fragments thrown on the surface, and a good deal of "dirty ice"
+occurring. After passing through a good deal of loose ice, it became
+gradually more and more open, till at length, at a quarter before seven
+A.M., we heard the first sound of the swell under the hollow margins of
+the ice, and in a quarter of an hour had reached the open sea, which was
+dashing with heavy surges against the outer masses. We hauled the boats
+upon one of these, to eat our last meal upon the ice, and to complete
+the necessary supply of water for our little voyage to Table Island,
+from which we were now distant fifty miles, our latitude being 81° 34',
+and longitude 18-1/4° E. A light air springing up from the N.W., we
+again launched the boats, and at eight A.M. finally quitted the ice,
+after having taken up our abode upon it for forty-eight days.
+
+We had some fog during the night, so that we steered entirely by
+compass, according to our last observations by the chronometers, which
+proved so correct, that, at five A.M. on the 12th, on the clearing up of
+the haze, we made the island right ahead. At eleven A.M. we reached the
+island, or rather the rock to the northward of it, where our provisions
+had been deposited; and I cannot describe the comfort we experienced in
+once more feeling a dry and solid footing. We found that the bears had
+devoured all the bread (one hundred pounds), which occasioned a remark
+among the men, with reference to the quantity of these animals' flesh
+that we had eaten, that "Bruin was only square with us." We also found
+that Lieutenant Crozier had been here since we left the island, bringing
+some materials for repairing our boats, as well as various little
+luxuries to which we had lately been strangers, and depositing in a
+copper cylinder a letter from Lieutenant Foster, giving me a detailed
+account of the proceedings of the ship up to the 23d of July. By this I
+learned that the Hecla had been forced on shore on the 7th of July, by
+the breaking-up of the ice at the head of the bay, which came down upon
+her in one solid mass; but, by the unwearied and zealous exertions of
+the officers and men, she had again been hove off without incurring the
+slightest damage, and placed in perfect security. Among the supplies
+with which the anxious care of our friends on board had now furnished
+us, some lemon-juice and sugar were not the least acceptable; two or
+three of the men having for some days past suffered from oedematous
+swellings of the legs, and evinced other symptoms apparently scorbutic,
+but which soon improved after administering this valuable specific.
+
+Having got our stores into the boats, we rowed round Table Island to
+look for a place on which to rest, the men being much fatigued; but so
+rugged and inhospitable is this northern rock, that not a single spot
+could we find where the boats could possibly be hauled up, or lie afloat
+in security. I therefore determined to take advantage of the freshening
+of the N.E. wind, and to bear up for Walden Island, which we accordingly
+did at two P.M. We had scarcely made, sail when the weather became
+extremely inclement, with a fresh gale and very thick snow, which
+obscured Walden Island from our view. Steering by compass, however, we
+made a good landfall, the boats behaving well in a sea; and at seven
+P.M. landed in the smoothest place we could find under the lee of the
+island. Everything belonging to us was now completely drenched by the
+spray and snow; we had been fifty-six hours without rest, and
+forty-eight at work in the boats, so that, by the time they were
+unloaded, we had barely strength left to haul them up on the rock. We
+noticed, on this occasion, that the men had that wildness in their looks
+which usually accompanies excessive fatigue; and, though just as willing
+as ever to obey orders, they seemed at times not to comprehend them.
+However, by dint of great exertion, we managed to get the boats above
+the surf; after which, a hot supper, a blazing fire of driftwood, and a
+few hours' quiet rest, quite restored us.
+
+The next morning, the 13th, I despatched Lieutenant Ross, with a party
+of hands, to the N.E. part of the island, to launch the spare boat,
+which, according to my directions, Lieutenant Foster had sent for our
+use, and to bring round the stores deposited there in readiness for our
+setting off for Low Island. They found everything quite undisturbed;
+but, by the time they reached us, the wind had backed to the westward,
+and the weather become very wet, so that I determined to remain here
+till it improved.
+
+At ten A.M. on the 14th, the weather being fine, we launched our three
+boats and left Walden Island; but the wind backing more to the westward,
+we could only fetch into a bay on the opposite or southern shore, where
+we hauled the boats up on very rugged rocks, under cliffs about six
+hundred feet high, and of the same granite formation as Walden Island.
+
+The wind dying away on the morning of the 17th, we once more set out for
+the ship at nine A.M.; but having a second time nearly reached Shoal
+Point, were again met by a strong breeze as we opened Waygatz Strait,
+and were therefore obliged to land upon the low shore to the southward
+of Low Island.
+
+On the 18th of August the wind increased to a strong breeze from the
+S.W., with rain and sleet, which afterward changed to snow in some of
+the largest flakes I ever saw, completely changing the whole aspect of
+the land from summer to winter in a few hours. On the following morning
+we prepared to move at an early hour, but the wind backed more to the
+westward, and soon after increased to a gale, raising so much surf on
+the beach as to oblige us to haul the boats higher up. On the 20th,
+tired as we were of this tedious confinement, and anxious to reach the
+ship, the wind and sea were still too high to allow us to move, and it
+was not till half past seven A.M. on the following day that we could
+venture to launch the boats. Having now, by means of the driftwood,
+converted our paddles into oars, and being occasionally favoured by a
+light breeze, with a perfectly open sea, we made tolerable progress, and
+at half past four P.M. on the 21st of August, when within three or four
+miles of Hecla Cove, had the gratification of seeing a boat under sail
+coming out to meet us. Mr. Weir soon joined us in one of the cutters;
+and, after hearing good accounts of the safety of the ship, and of the
+welfare of all on board, together with a variety of details, to us of no
+small interest, we arrived on board at seven P.M., after an absence of
+sixty-one days, being received with that warm and cordial welcome which
+can alone be felt, and not described.
+
+I cannot conclude the account of our proceedings without endeavouring
+to do justice to the cheerful alacrity and unwearied zeal displayed by
+my companions, both officers and men, in the course of this excursion;
+and if steady perseverance and active exertion on their parts could have
+accomplished our object, success would undoubtedly have crowned our
+labours. I must also mention, to the credit of the officers of Woolwich
+dock-yard, who took so much pains in the construction of our boats,
+that, notwithstanding the constant and severe trial to which their
+strength had been put--and a more severe trial could not well be
+devised--not a timber was sprung, a plank split, or the smallest injury
+sustained by them; they were, indeed, as tight and as fit for service
+when we reached the ship as when they were first received on board, and
+in every respect answered the intended purpose admirably.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+On my arrival on board, I learned from Lieutenant Crozier that
+Lieutenant Foster, finding that no farther disturbance from ice was to
+be apprehended, and after making an accurate plan of the bay and its
+neighbourhood, had proceeded on the survey of Waygatz Strait, and
+proposed returning by the 26th of August, the day to which I had limited
+his absence. I found the ship quite ready for sea, with the exception of
+getting on board the launch, with the stores deposited by my direction
+on the beach. Lieutenant Foster's report informed me that, after the
+ship had been hauled off the ground, they had again suffered
+considerable disturbance for several days, in consequence of some heavy
+masses of ice driving into the bay, which dragged the anchors, and
+again threatened them with a similar accident. However, after the middle
+of July, no ice had entered the bay, and, what is still more remarkable,
+not a piece had been seen in the offing for some weeks past, even after
+hard northerly and westerly gales.
+
+On the 22d of August, as soon as our people had enjoyed a good night's
+rest, we commenced bringing the stores on board from the beach, throwing
+out such a quantity of the stone ballast as was necessary for trimming
+the ship; after which the cables and hawsers were cast off from the
+shore, and the ship hauled off to single anchor. Lieutenant Foster
+returned on board on the 24th, having surveyed the greater part of the
+shores of the strait, as far to the southward as 79° 33".
+
+Lieutenant Foster saw some seahorses (narwhals) and white whales in the
+course of this excursion, but no black whales; nor did we, in the whole
+course of the voyage, see any of these, except on the ground already
+frequented by our whalers on the western coast of Spitzbergen. It is
+remarkable, however, that the "crown-bones," and other parts of the
+skeleton of whales, are found in most parts where we landed on this
+coast. The shores of the strait, like all the rest in Spitzbergen, are
+lined with immense quantities of driftwood, wherever the nature of the
+coast will allow it to land.
+
+The animals met with here during the Hecla's stay were principally
+reindeer, bears, foxes, kittiwakes, glaucus and ivory gulls, tern,
+eider-ducks, and a few grouse. Looms and rotges were numerous in the
+offing. Seventy reindeer were killed, chiefly very small, and, until
+the middle of August, not in good condition. They were usually met with
+in herds of from six or eight to twenty, and were most abundant on the
+west and north sides of the bay. Three bears were killed, one of which
+was somewhat above the ordinary dimensions, measuring eight feet four
+inches from the snout to the insertion of the tail. The vegetation was
+tolerably abundant, especially on the western side of the bay, where the
+soil is good; a considerable collection of plants, as well as minerals,
+was made by Mr. Halse, and of birds by Mr. M'Cormick.
+
+The neighbourhood of this bay, like most of the northern shores of
+Spitzbergen, appears to have been much visited by the Dutch at a very
+early period; of which circumstance records are furnished on almost
+every spot where we landed, by the numerous graves which we met with.
+There are thirty of these on a point of land on the north side of the
+bay.[023] The bodies are usually deposited in an oblong wooden coffin,
+which, on account of the difficulty of digging the ground, is not
+buried, but merely covered by large stones; and a board is generally
+placed near the head, having, either cut or painted upon it, the name of
+the deceased, with those of his ship and commander, and the month and
+year of his burial. Several of these were fifty or sixty years old; one
+bore the date of 1738; and another, which I found on the beach to the
+eastward of Hecla Cove, that of 1690; the inscription distinctly
+appearing in prominent relief, occasioned by the preservation of the
+wood by the paint, while the unpainted part had decayed around it.
+
+The officers who remained on board the Hecla during the summer described
+the weather as the most beautiful, and the climate altogether the most
+agreeable, they had ever experienced in the Polar Regions. Indeed, the
+Meteorological Journal shows a temperature, both of the air and of the
+sea water, to which we had before been altogether strangers within the
+Arctic Circle, and which goes far towards showing that the climate of
+Spitzbergen is a remarkably temperate one for its latitude.[024] It
+must, however, be observed, that this remark is principally applicable
+to the weather experienced _near the land_, that at sea being rendered
+of a totally different character by the almost continual presence of
+fogs; so that some of our most gloomy days upon the ice were among the
+finest in Hecla Cove, where, however, a good deal of rain fell in the
+course of the summer.
+
+The Hecla was ready for sea on the 25th of August; but the wind blowing
+fresh from the northward and westward prevented our moving till the
+evening of the 28th, when, the weather improving, we got under way from
+Hecla Cove, and, being favoured with a light air from the S.E., stood
+along the coast to the westward. On the evening of the 29th, when off
+Red Beach, we got on board our boat and other stores which had been
+left there, finding them undisturbed and in good order. The weather was
+beautifully fine, and the sun (to us for the first time for about four
+months) just dipped his lower limb into the sea at midnight, and then
+rose again. It was really wonderful to see that, upon this whole
+northern coast of Spitzbergen, where in May and June not a "hole" of
+clear water could be found, it would now have been equally difficult to
+discover a single mass of ice in any direction. This absence of ice now
+enabled us to see Moffen Island, which is so low and flat that it was
+before entirely hidden from our view by the hummocks. On rounding
+Hakluyt's Headland on the 30th, we came at once into a long swell, such
+as occurs only in places exposed to the whole range of the ocean, and,
+except a small or loose stream or two, we after this saw no more ice of
+any kind. On the 31st we were off Prince Charles's Foreland, the middle
+part of which, about Cape Sietoe, appeared to be much the highest land
+we had seen in Spitzbergen; rising probably to an elevation of above
+four thousand feet.
+
+We had favourable winds to carry us clear of Spitzbergen; but after the
+3d of September, and between the parallels of 70° and 60°, were detained
+by continual southerly and southwesterly breezes for a fortnight. On the
+evening of the 17th we made Shetland, and on the following day, being
+close off Balta Sound, and the wind blowing strong from the S.W., I
+anchored in the Voe at two P.M., to wait a more favourable breeze. We
+were here received by all that genuine hospitality for which the
+inhabitants of this northern part of the British dominions are so
+justly distinguished, and we gladly availed ourselves of the supplies
+with which their kindness furnished us.
+
+Early on the morning of the 19th of September, the wind suddenly shifted
+to the N.N.W., and almost immediately blew so strong a gale that we could
+not safely cast the ship until the evening, when we got under way and
+proceeded to the southward; but had not proceeded farther than Fair
+Island, when, after a few hours' calm, we were once more met by a
+southerly wind. Against this we continued to beat till the morning of
+the 23d, when, finding that we made but little progress, and that there
+was no appearance of an alteration of wind, I determined to put into
+Long Hope, in the Orkney Islands, to await a change in our favour, and
+accordingly ran in and anchored there as soon as the tide would permit.
+
+We found lying here his majesty's revenue cutter the Chichester; and Mr.
+Stuart, her commander, who was bound direct to Inverness, came on board
+as soon as we had anchored, to offer his services in any manner which
+might be useful. The wind died away in the course of the night of the
+24th, and was succeeded on the following morning by a light air from the
+northward, when we immediately got under way; but had not entered the
+Pentland Firth, when it again fell calm and then backed to the
+southward, rendering it impossible to make any progress in that
+direction with a dull-sailing ship. I therefore determined on returning
+with the Hecla to the anchorage, and then taking advantage of Mr.
+Stuart's offer; and accordingly left the ship at eight A.M., accompanied
+by Mr. Beverly, to proceed to Inverness in the Chichester, and from
+thence by land to London, in order to lay before his royal highness the
+lord high admiral, without farther delay, an account of our proceedings.
+By the zealous exertions of Mr. Stuart, for which I feel greatly obliged
+to that gentleman, we arrived off Fort George the following morning,
+and, landing at Inverness at noon, immediately set off for London, and
+arrived at the Admiralty on the morning of the 29th of September.
+
+Owing to the continuance of southerly winds, the Hecla did not arrive in
+the river Thames until the 6th of October, when I was sorry, though not
+surprised, to learn the death of Mr. George Crawford, the Greenland
+master, who departed this life on the 29th of September, sincerely
+lamented by all who knew him, as a zealous, active, and enterprising
+seaman, and an amiable and deserving man. Mr. Crawford had accompanied
+us in five successive voyages to the Polar Seas, and I truly regret the
+occasion which demands from me this public testimony of the value of his
+services and the excellence of his character.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+Having finished my Narrative of this Attempt to reach the North Pole, I
+may perhaps be permitted, in conclusion, to offer such remarks as have
+lately occurred to me on the nature and practicability of the
+enterprise.
+
+That the object is of still more difficult attainment than was before
+supposed, even by those persons who were the best qualified to judge of
+it, will, I believe, appear evident from a perusal of the foregoing
+pages; nor can I, after much consideration and some experience of the
+various difficulties which belong to it, recommend any material
+improvement in the plan lately adopted. Among the various schemes
+suggested for this purpose, it has been proposed to set out from
+Spitzbergen, and to make a rapid journey to the northward with sledges
+or sledge-boats, drawn wholly by dogs or reindeer; but, however feasible
+this plan may at first sight appear, I cannot say that our late
+experience of the nature of the ice which they would probably have to
+encounter has been at all favourable to it. It would, of course, be a
+matter of extreme imprudence to set out on this enterprise without the
+means of crossing, not merely narrow pools and "lanes," but more
+extensive spaces of open water, such as we met with between the margin
+of the ice and the Spitzbergen shores; and I do not conceive that any
+boat sufficiently large to be efficient and safe for this purpose could
+possibly be managed upon the ice, were the power employed to give it
+motion dependant on dogs or reindeer. On the contrary, it was a frequent
+subject of remark among the officers, that reason was a qualification
+scarcely less indispensable than strength and activity in travelling
+over such a road; daily instances occurring of our having to pass over
+difficult places, which no other animal than man could have been easily
+prevailed upon to attempt. Indeed, the constant necessity of launching
+and hauling up the boats (which operations we had frequently to perform
+eight or ten, and, on one occasion, seventeen times in the same day)
+would alone render it inexpedient, in my opinion, to depend chiefly
+upon animals; for it would certainly require more time and labour to get
+them into and out of the boats, than their services in the intervals, or
+their flesh ultimately used as food, would be worth; especially when it
+is considered how large a weight of provender must be carried for their
+own subsistence.[025]
+
+In case of employing reindeer, which, from their strength, docility, and
+hardy habits, appear the best suited to this kind of travelling, there
+would be an evident advantage in setting out much earlier in the year
+than we did; perhaps about the end of April, when the ice is less broken
+up, and the snow much harder upon its surface than at a more advanced
+part of the season. But this, it must be recollected, would involve the
+necessity of passing the previous winter on the northern coast of
+Spitzbergen, which, even under favourable circumstances, would probably
+tend to weaken in some degree the energies of the men; while, on the
+other hand, it would be next to impossible to procure there a supply of
+provender for a number of tame reindeer, sufficient even to keep them
+alive, much less in tolerable condition, during a whole winter. In
+addition to this, it may be observed, that any party setting out earlier
+must be provided with a much greater weight of warm clothing in order to
+guard against the severity of cold, and also with an increased
+proportion of fuel for procuring water by the melting of snow, there
+being no fresh water upon the ice in these latitudes before the month of
+June.
+
+In the kind of provisions proper to be employed in such enterprises--a
+very important consideration, where almost the whole difficulty may be
+said to resolve itself into a question of weight--I am not aware that
+any improvement could be made upon that with which we were furnished;
+for I know of none which appears to contain so much nutriment in so
+small a weight and compass. It may be useful, however, to remark, as the
+result of absolute experience, that our daily allowance of
+provisions,[026] although previously tried for some days on board the
+ship, and then considered to be enough, proved by no means sufficient to
+support the strength of men living constantly in the open air, exposed
+to wet and cold for at least twelve hours a day, seldom enjoying the
+luxury of a warm meal, and having to perform the kind of labour to which
+our people were subject. I have before remarked, that, previously to our
+return to the ship, our strength was considerably impaired; and, indeed,
+there is reason to believe that, very soon after entering upon the ice,
+the physical energies of the men were gradually diminishing, although,
+for the first few weeks, they did not appear to labour under any
+specific complaint. This diminution of strength, which we considered to
+be principally owing to the want of sufficient sustenance, became
+apparent, even after a fortnight, in the lifting of the bread-bags and
+other heavy weights; and I have no doubt that, in spite of every care on
+the part of the officers, as well as Mr. Beverly's skilful and humane
+attention to their ailments, some of the men, who had begun to fail
+before we quitted the ice, would, in a week or two longer, have suffered
+very severely, and become a serious encumbrance, instead of an
+assistance, to our party. As far as we were able to judge, without
+farther trial, Mr. Beverly and myself were of opinion that, in order to
+maintain the strength of men thus employed for several weeks together,
+an addition would be requisite of at least one third more to the
+provisions which we daily issued. I need scarcely remark how much this
+would increase the difficulty of equipping such an expedition.
+
+I cannot dismiss the subject of this enterprise without attempting to
+explain, as far as I am able, how it may have happened that the ice over
+which we passed was found to answer so little to the description of that
+observed by the respectable authorities quoted in a former part of this
+volume.[027] It frequently occurred to us, in the course of our daily
+journeys, that this may, in some degree, have arisen from our
+navigators' having generally viewed the ice from a considerable height.
+The only clear and commanding view on board a ship is that from the
+crow's-nest; and Phipps's most important remarks concerning the nature
+of the ice to the north of Spitzbergen were made from a station several
+hundred feet above the sea; and, as it is well known how much the most
+experienced eye may thus be deceived, it is possible enough that the
+irregularities which cost us so much time and labour may, when viewed in
+this manner, have entirely escaped notice, and the whole surface have
+appeared one smooth and level plain.
+
+It is, moreover, possible, that the broken state in which we
+unexpectedly found the ice may have arisen, at least in part, from an
+unusually wet season, preceded, perhaps, by a winter of less than
+ordinary severity. Of the latter we have no means of judging, there
+being no record, that I am aware of, of the temperature of that or any
+other winter passed in the higher latitudes; but, on comparing our
+Meteorological Register with some others kept during the corresponding
+season and about the same latitude,[028] it does appear that, though no
+material difference is observable in the mean temperature of the
+atmosphere, the quantity of rain which we experienced is considerably
+greater than usual; and it is well known how very rapidly ice is
+dissolved by a fall of rain. At all events, from whatever cause it may
+have arisen, it is certain that, about the meridian on which we
+proceeded northward in the boats, the sea was in a totally different
+state from what Phipps experienced, as may be seen from comparing our
+accounts--his ship being closely beset, near the Seven Islands, for
+several days about the beginning of August; whereas the Hecla, in the
+beginning of June, sailed about in the same neighbourhood without
+obstruction, and, before the close of July, not a piece of ice could be
+seen from Little Table Island.
+
+I may add, in conclusion, that, before the middle of August, when we
+left the ice in our boats, a ship might have sailed to the latitude, of
+82° almost without touching a piece of ice; and it was the general
+opinion among us, that, by the end of that month, it would probably have
+been no very difficult matter to reach the parallel of 83°, about the
+meridian of the Seven Islands.
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+
+
+
+FOOTNOTES
+
+[001] This name being applied by the Esquimaux to several other portions
+of land, all of which are insular, or nearly so, it is probable that the
+word simply signifies an island.
+
+[002] The expression "fixed ice" appearing better suited to our present
+obstacle than that of "land ice," I shall in future adopt it in speaking
+of this barrier.
+
+[003] Lest it should be thought that this account is exaggerated, I may
+here state, that, as a matter of curiosity, we one day tried how much a
+lad, scarcely full grown, would, if freely supplied, consume in this
+way. The under-mentioned articles were weighed before being given to
+him; he was twenty hours in getting through them, and certainly did not
+consider the quantity extraordinary.
+
+                                      lb.   oz.
+  Seahorse flesh, hard frozen          4     4
+  Ditto,     boiled                    4     4
+  Bread and bread-dust                 1    12
+                                      ________
+
+        Total of solids               10     4
+  The Fluids were in fair proportion, viz.:
+  Rich gravy-soup                      1-1/4 pint.
+  Raw spirits                          3 wine glasses.
+  Strong grog.                         1 tumbler.
+  Water                                1 gallon 1 pint.
+
+[004] We have since heard that these ships were the Dexterity, of Leith,
+and the Aurora, of Hull, which were wrecked on the 28th of August, 1821,
+about the latitude of 72°.
+
+[005] A fine lad, of about sixteen, being one day out in a boat with one
+of our gentlemen at Arlagnuk, reminded him, with a serious face, that he
+had laid a gun down _full-cocked_. There happened to be no charge in the
+gun at the time; but this was a proof of the attention the boy had paid
+to the art of using firearms, as well as an instance of considerate and
+manly caution, scarcely to have been expected in an individual of that
+age.
+
+[006] Most Greenland sailors use these; but many persons, both officers
+and men, have an absurd prejudice against what they call "wearing
+stays."
+
+[007] It is remarkable that this poor man had, twice before, within the
+space of nine months, been very near death; for, besides the accident
+already mentioned, of falling down the hill when escaping from the bear,
+he was also in imminent danger of dying of dropsy during the winter.
+
+[008] This birch, they said, had been procured from the southward by way
+of _Noowook_. We never met with any of the same kind in those parts of
+the country which we visited, except that observed by Captain Lyon in
+the deserted habitations of the Esquimaux near Five Hawser Bay.
+
+[009] Toolooak, who was a frequent visitor at the young gentlemen's
+mess-table on board the Fury, once evinced this taste, and no small
+cunning at the same time, by asking alternately for a little more bread
+and a little more butter, till he had made a hearty meal.
+
+[010] Cervical, 7; dorsal, 13; lumbar, 7; sacral, 3; caudal, 19.
+
+[011] Cartwright's _Labrador_, iii., 232.
+
+[012] Ledyard. _Proceedings of the African Association_, vol i, p. 30.
+
+[013] The first travelling boat, which was built by way of experiment,
+was planked differently from these two; the planks, which were of
+half-inch oak, being ingeniously "tongued" together with copper, in
+order to save the necessity of caulking in case of the wood shrinking.
+This was the boat subsequently landed on Red Beach.
+
+[014] This article of our equipment contains a large proportion of
+nutriment in a small weight and compass, and is therefore invaluable on
+such occasions. The process, which requires great attention, consists in
+drying large thin slices of the lean of the meat over the smoke of
+wood-fires, then pounding it, and lastly mixing it with about an equal
+weight of its own fat. In this state it is quite ready for use, without
+farther cooking.
+
+[015] The merits of this simple but valuable invention being now too
+well known to require any detailed account of the experiments, it is
+only necessary for me to remark, in this place, that the compass, having
+the plate attached to it, gave, under all circumstances, the correct
+magnetic bearing.
+
+[016] It is remarkable, that the Esquimaux word for boot is very like
+this--Kameega.
+
+[017] I find it to be the universal opinion among the most experienced
+of our whalers, that there is much less ice met with, of late years, in
+getting to the northward, in these latitudes, than formerly was the
+case. Mr. Scoresby, to whose very valuable local information, contained
+in his "Account of the Arctic Regions," I have been greatly indebted on
+this occasion, mentions the circumstance as a generally received fact.
+
+[018] It was probably some such gale as this which has given to
+Hakluyt's Headland, in an old Dutch chart, the appellation of "Duyvel's
+Hoek."
+
+[019] I have been thus particular in noticing the Hecla's position,
+because our observations would appear to be, with one exception, the
+most northern on record at that time. The Commissioners of Longitude, in
+their memorial to the king in council, in the year 1821, consider that
+the "progress of discovery has not arrived northward, according to any
+well-authenticated accounts, so far as eighty-one degrees of north
+latitude." Mr. Scoresby states his having observed in lat. 81° 12' 42".
+
+[020] Had we succeeded in reaching the higher latitudes, where the
+change of the sun's altitude during the twenty-four hours is still less
+perceptible, it would have been essentially necessary to possess the
+certain means of knowing this; since an error of twelve hours of time
+would have carried us, when we intended to return, on a meridian
+opposite to, or 180° from, the right one. To obviate the possibility of
+this, we had some chronometers constructed by Messrs. Parkinson and
+Frodsham, of which the hour-hand made only one revolution in the day,
+the twenty-four hours being marked round the dial-plate.
+
+[021] I may here mention, that, notwithstanding the heavy blows which
+the boats were constantly receiving, all our nautical and astronomical
+instruments were taken back to the ship without injury. This
+circumstance makes it, perhaps, worth while to explain, that they were
+lashed upon a wooden platform in the after locker of each boat,
+sufficiently small to be clear of the boat's sides, and playing on
+strong springs of whalebone, which entirely obviated the effects of the
+severe concussions to which they would otherwise have been subject.
+
+[022] We found the best preservative against this glare to be a pair of
+spectacles, having the glass of a bluish-green colour, and with
+side-screens to them.
+
+[023] Perhaps the name of this bay, from the Dutch word _Treuren_, "to
+lament, or be mournful," may have some reference to the graves found
+here.
+
+[024] Mr. Crowe, of Hammerfest, who lately passed a winter on the
+southwestern coast of Spitzbergen, in about latitude 78°, informed me
+that he had _rain at Christmas_; a phenomenon which would indeed have
+astonished us at any of our former wintering stations in a much lower
+latitude. Perhaps the circumstance of the reindeer wintering at
+Spitzbergen may also be considered a proof of a comparatively temperate
+climate.
+
+[025] See p. 254 of this volume. {line 6545 "The quantity of clean moss
+considered requisite for each deer per day is four pounds ..." -
+Transcriber}
+
+[026] See p. 280 of this volume. {line 7210 "Our allowance of provisions
+for each man per day was as follows:" - Transcriber}
+
+[027] See Introduction. {line 6343 "INTRODUCTION." - Transcriber}
+
+[028] Particularly that of Mr. Scoresby during the month of July, from
+1812 to 1818 inclusive, and Captain Franklin's for July and August,
+1818.
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THREE VOYAGES FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A
+NORTHWEST PASSAGE FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC, AND NARRATIVE OF AN
+ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NORTH POLE, VOLUME 2 (OF 2)***
+
+
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+<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Three Voyages for the Discovery of a Northwest Passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and Narrative of an Attempt to Reach the North Pole, Volume 2 (of 2), by Sir William Edward Parry</title>
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+<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Three Voyages for the Discovery of a
+Northwest Passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and Narrative of an
+Attempt to Reach the North Pole, Volume 2 (of 2), by Sir William Edward
+Parry</h1>
+<pre class="pg">
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at <a href = "https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre>
+<p>Title: Three Voyages for the Discovery of a Northwest Passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and Narrative of an Attempt to Reach the North Pole, Volume 2 (of 2)</p>
+<p>Author: Sir William Edward Parry</p>
+<p>Release Date: December 14, 2004  [eBook #14350]</p>
+<p>Language: English</p>
+<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p>
+<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THREE VOYAGES FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A NORTHWEST PASSAGE FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC, AND NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NORTH POLE, VOLUME 2 (OF 2)***</p>
+<br><br><h3>E-text prepared by Robert Connal, David Gundry,<br>
+            and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br>
+            from images generously made available by<br>
+            the Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions</h3><br><br>
+<table border=0 bgcolor="ccccff" cellpadding=10>
+  <tr>
+    <td width="27%" valign="top">
+      Transcriber's Note:
+    </td>
+    <td>
+          The character = preceding a vowel is used to indicate that the
+          vowel is to be pronounced long.<br>
+          The character ~ preceding a vowel is used to indicate that the
+          vowel is to be pronounced short.<br>
+          These characters do not occur otherwise.
+	</td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+<br>
+<br>
+<hr class="full" noshade>
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<br>
+
+<a name='THREE_VOYAGES'></a>
+<h2>THREE VOYAGES<br>
+ FOR THE<br>
+ DISCOVERY OF A NORTHWEST PASSAGE<br>
+ FROM THE<br>
+ ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC,<br>
+ AND NARRATIVE OF<br>
+ AN ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NORTH POLE.</h2>
+<h3>BY</h3>
+<h3>SIR W. E. PARRY, CAPT. R.N.. F.R.S.</h3>
+
+<h3>IN TWO VOLUMES.<br>
+<br>
+</h3>
+<h4>VOL. II.</h4>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<br>
+
+<h6>New-York:<br>
+Harper &amp; Brothers, 82 Cliff-Street.</h6>
+<br>
+
+<h4>1844.</h4>
+<center><img alt="001 (160K)" src="images/001.jpg" width="100%"></center>
+<br>
+
+<h3>CONTENTS<br>
+ OF<br>
+ THE SECOND VOLUME.</h3>
+<br>
+ <a name='b001_2'></a><a href='#b001'></a>
+<h4>SECOND VOYAGE<br>
+CONTINUED.</h4>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p><a name="c001"></a><a href="#c001_2">CHAPTER X.</a></p>
+<p>Departure from Winter Island.&mdash;Meet with some Esquimaux
+travelling to the Northward.&mdash;Obstruction and Danger from
+the Ice and Tides.&mdash;Discovery of the Barrow River, and its
+Fall.&mdash;Favourable Passage to the Northward.&mdash;Arrival
+off the Strait of the Fury and Hecla.&mdash;Progress opposed by a
+fixed barrier of Ice.&mdash;Communicate with the Natives of
+Igloolik.&mdash;Unsuccessful Attempt to get between the Ice and
+the Land.&mdash;Land upon the Calthorpe Islands.&mdash;The Fury
+drifted by the Ice between two Islands.&mdash;Account of a
+Journey performed in Sledges up an Inlet to the Westward.</p>
+<br>
+<p><a name="c002"></a><a href="#c002_2">CHAPTER XI.</a></p>
+<p>A Whale killed.&mdash;Other Charts drawn by the
+Esquimaux.&mdash;Account of a Journey to the Narrows of the
+Strait.&mdash;Discovery of the Sea to the Westward.&mdash;Total
+Disruption of the Ice at the Eastern Entrance of the
+Strait.&mdash;Instance of local Attraction on the
+Compasses.&mdash;Sail through the Narrows, and again stopped by
+fixed Ice.&mdash;Account of several Land Journeys and Boat
+Excursions.&mdash;Observations on the Tides.&mdash;Continued
+Obstacles from fixed Ice.</p>
+<br>
+
+<p><a name="c003"></a><a href="#c003_2">CHAPTER XII.</a></p>
+<p>A Journey performed along the South Shore of Cockburn
+Island.&mdash;Confirmation of an Outlet to the Polar
+Sea.&mdash;Partial Disruption of the Old Ice, and formation of
+New.&mdash;Return through the Narrows to the
+Eastward.&mdash;Proceed to examine the Coast to the
+Northeastward.&mdash;Fury's Anchor broken.&mdash;Stand over to
+Igloolik to look for Winter-quarters.&mdash;Excursion to the Head
+of Quilliam Creek.&mdash;Ships forced to the Westward by Gales of
+Wind.&mdash;A Canal sawed through the Ice, and the Ships secured
+in their Winter Station.&mdash;Continued Visits of the Esquimaux,
+and Arrival of some of the Winter Island Tribe.&mdash;Proposed
+Plan of Operations in the ensuing Spring.</p>
+<br>
+<p><a name="c004"></a><a href="#c004_2">
+CHAPTER XIII.</a></p>
+<p>Preparations for the Winter.&mdash;Various Meteorological
+Phenomena to the close of the year 1822.&mdash;Sickness among the
+Esquimaux.&mdash;Meteorological Phenomena to the end of
+March.</p>
+<br>
+<p><a name="c005"></a><a href="#c005_2">
+CHAPTER XIV.</a></p>
+<p>Various Journeys to the Esquimaux Stations.&mdash;Preparations
+for the Hecla's Return to England.&mdash;Remarkable Halos,
+&amp;c.&mdash;Shooting Parties stationed at
+Arlagnuk.&mdash;Journeys to Quilliam Creek.&mdash;Arrival of
+Esquimaux from the Northward.&mdash;Account of a Journey to the
+Westward for the purpose of reaching the Polar Sea.&mdash;The
+Esquimaux report two Fishing-ships having been Wrecked.&mdash;A
+Journey performed to Cockburn Island.&mdash;Discovery of Murray
+Maxwell Inlet</p>
+<br>
+<p><a name="c006"></a><a href="#c006_2">
+CHAPTER XV.</a></p>
+<p>Extraordinary Disruption of Ice in Quilliam Creek.&mdash;Some
+Appearance of Scurvy among the Seamen and Marines&mdash;Discovery
+of Gifford River.&mdash;Commence cutting the Ice outside the
+Ships to release them from their
+Winter-quarters.&mdash;Considerations respecting the Return of
+the Expedition to England.&mdash;Unfavourable State of the Ice at
+the Eastern Entrance of the Strait.&mdash;Proceed to the
+Southward.&mdash;Ships beset and drifted up Lyon
+Inlet.&mdash;Decease of Mr. George Fife.&mdash;Final Release from
+the Ice, and Arrival in England.&mdash;Remarks upon the
+practicability of a Northwest Passage.</p>
+</div>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p><a name='b002_2'></a><a href='#b002'>THIRD VOYAGE</a></p>
+<br>
+<p><a name="c007"></a><a href="#c007_2">
+INTRODUCTION</a></p>
+<br>
+<p><a name="c008"></a><a href="#c008_2">
+CHAPTER I.</a></p>
+<p>Passage to the Whale-fish Islands, and Removal of Stores from
+the Transport.&mdash;Enter the Ice in Baffin's
+Bay.&mdash;Difficulties of Penetrating to the
+Westward.&mdash;Quit the Ice in Baffin's Bay.&mdash;Remarks on
+the Obstructions encountered by the Ships, and on the Severity of
+the Season.</p>
+<br>
+<p><a name="c009"></a><a href="#c009_2">
+CHAPTER II.</a></p>
+<p>Enter Sir James Lancaster's Sound.&mdash;Land at Cape
+Warrender.&mdash;Meet with young Ice.&mdash;Ships beset and
+carried near the Shore.&mdash;Driven back to Navy-board
+Inlet.&mdash;Run to the Westward, and enter Prince Regent's
+Inlet.&mdash;Arrival at Port Bowen.</p>
+<br>
+<p><a name="c010"></a><a href="#c010_2">
+CHAPTER III.</a></p>
+<p>Winter Arrangements.&mdash;Improvements in Warming and
+Ventilating the Ships.&mdash;Masquerades adopted as an Amusement
+to the Men.&mdash;Establishment of Schools.&mdash;Astronomical
+Observations.&mdash;Meteorological Phenomena</p>
+<br>
+<p><a name="c011"></a><a href="#c011_2">
+CHAPTER IV.</a></p>
+<p>Re-equipment of the Ships.&mdash;Several Journeys
+undertaken.&mdash;Open Water in the Offing.&mdash;Commence sawing
+a Canal to liberate the Ships.&mdash;Disruption of the
+Ice.&mdash;Departure from Port Bowen.</p>
+<br>
+<p><a name="c012"></a><a href="#c012_2">
+CHAPTER V.</a></p>
+<p>Sail over towards the Western Coast of Prince Regent's
+Inlet.&mdash;Stopped by the Ice.&mdash;Reach the Shore about Cape
+Seppings.&mdash;Favourable Progress along the Land.&mdash;Fresh
+and repeated Obstructions from Ice.&mdash;Both Ships driven on
+Shore.&mdash;Fury seriously damaged.&mdash;Unsuccessful Search
+for a Harbour for heaving her down to repair.</p>
+<p><a name="c013"></a><a href="#c013_2">
+CHAPTER VI.</a></p>
+<p>Formation of a Basin for heaving the Fury down.&mdash;Landing
+of the Fury's Stores, and other Preparations.&mdash;The Ships
+secured within the Basin.&mdash;Impediments from the Pressure of
+the Ice.&mdash;Fury, hove down.&mdash;Securities of the Basin
+destroyed by a Gale of Wind.&mdash;Preparations to tow the Fury
+out.&mdash;Hecla Re-equipped, and obliged to put to
+Sea.&mdash;Fury again driven on Shore.&mdash;Rejoin the Fury; and
+find it necessary finally to abandon her.</p>
+<br>
+<p><a name="c014"></a><a href="#c014_2">
+CHAPTER VII.</a></p>
+<p>Some Remarks upon the Loss of the Fury&mdash;And on the
+Natural History, &amp;c, of the Coast of North Somerset.&mdash;Arrive
+at Neill's Harbour.&mdash;Death of John Page.&mdash;Leave Neill's
+Harbour.&mdash;Recross the Ice in Baffin's Bay.&mdash;Heavy
+Gales.&mdash;Temperature of the Sea.&mdash;Arrival in
+England.</p>
+</div>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<br>
+<p><a name='b003'></a><a href='#b003_2'>
+ACCOUNT OF THE ESQUIMAUX</a></p>
+<p><a name='b004'></a><a href='#b004_2'>
+NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NORTH POLE IN BOATS</a></p>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name='b001'></a>
+<h2><a href='#b001_2'>SECOND VOYAGE<br>
+ FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A<br>
+ NORTHWEST PASSAGE.<br>
+ CONTINUED.</a></h2>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c001_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c001">CHAPTER X.</a></h2>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>Departure from Winter Island.&mdash;Meet with some Esquimaux
+travelling to the Northward.&mdash;Obstruction and Danger from
+the Ice and Tides.&mdash;Discovery of the Barrow River, and its
+Fall.&mdash;Favourable Passage to the Northward.&mdash;Arrival
+off the Strait of the Fury and Hecla.&mdash;Progress opposed by a
+fixed barrier of Ice.&mdash;Communicate with the Natives of
+Igloolik.&mdash;Unsuccessful Attempt to get between the Ice and
+the Land&mdash;Land upon the Calthorpe Islands.&mdash;The Fury
+drifted by the Ice between two Islands.&mdash;Account of a
+Journey performed in Sledges up an Inlet to the westward.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p>The gale, which had for some time been blowing from the
+northward, veered to the N.W.b.W., and increased in strength on
+the 1st of July, which soon began to produce the effect of
+drifting the ice off the land. At six o'clock on the 2d, the
+report from the hill being favourable, and the wind and weather
+now also sufficiently so, we moved out of our winter's dock,
+which was, indeed, in part broken to pieces by the swell that had
+lately set into the bay. At seven we made sail, with a fresh
+breeze from W.N.W., and having cleared the rocks at the entrance
+of the bay, ran quickly to the northward and eastward. The ice in
+the offing was of the "hummocky" kind, and drifting rapidly about
+with the tides, leaving us a navigable channel varying in width
+from two miles to three or four hundred yards.</p>
+<p>The closeness of the ice again obliging us to make fast on the
+3d, we soon after perceived a party of people with a sledge upon
+the land-floe. I therefore sent Mr. Bushnan, with some of our
+men, to meet them and to bring them on board, being desirous of
+ascertaining whereabout, according to their geography, we now
+were. We found the party to consist, as we expected, of those who
+had taken leave of us forty days before on their departure to the
+northward, and who now readily accompanied our people to the
+ships; leaving only Togolat's idiot-boy by the sledge, tying him
+to a dog and the dog to the ice. As soon as they came under the
+bows, they halted in a line, and, according to their former
+promise, gave three cheers, which salutation a few of us on the
+forecastle did not fail to return. As soon as they got on board
+they expressed extreme joy at seeing us again, repeated each of
+our names with great earnestness, and were, indeed, much
+gratified by this unexpected encounter. Ewerat being now mounted
+on the plank which goes across the gunwales of our ships for
+conning them conveniently among the ice, explained, in a very
+clear and pilot-like manner, that the island which we observed to
+lie off Cape Wilson was that marked by Iligliuk in one of her
+charts, and there called <i>Awlikteewik</i>, pronounced by Ewerat
+<i>Ow-l=itt~ee-week</i>. On asking how many days' journey it was
+still to Amitioke, they all agreed in saying ten; and back to
+Winter Island <i>oon=o=oktoot</i> (a great many), so that we had
+good reason to hope we were not far from the former place. I may
+at once remark, however, that great caution is requisite in
+judging of the information these people give of the distances
+from one place to another, as expressed by the number of
+<i>se=eniks</i> (sleeps) or days' journeys, to which, in other
+countries, a definite value is affixed. No two Esquimaux will
+give the same account in this respect, though each is equally
+desirous of furnishing correct information; for, besides their
+deficiency as arithmeticians, which renders the enumeration of
+ten a labour, and of fifteen almost an impossibility to many of
+them, each individual forms his idea of the distance according to
+the season of the year, and, consequently, the mode of travelling
+in which his own journey has been performed. Instances of this
+kind will be observed in the charts of the Esquimaux, in which
+they not only differ from each other in this respect, but the
+same individual differs from himself at different times. It is
+only, therefore, by a careful comparison of the various accounts,
+and by making allowances for the different circumstances under
+which the journeys have been made, that these apparent
+inconsistencies can be reconciled, and an approximation to the
+truth obtained.</p>
+<p>Many of our officers and men cordially greeted these poor
+people as old acquaintances they were glad to see again, and they
+were loaded, as usual, with numerous presents, of which the only
+danger to be apprehended was lest they should go mad on account
+of them. The women screamed in a convulsive manner at everything
+they received, and cried for five minutes together with the
+excess of their joy; and to the honour of "John Bull" be it
+recorded, he sent by one of the men as he left the ship a piece
+of sealskin, as a present to <i>Parree</i>, being the first
+offering of real gratitude, and without any expectation of
+return, that I had ever received from any of them. I never saw
+them express more surprise than on being assured that we had left
+Winter Island only a single day; a circumstance which might well
+excite their wonder, considering that they had themselves been
+above forty in reaching our present station. They had obtained
+one reindeer, and had now a large seal on their sledge, to which
+we added a quantity of bread-dust, that seemed acceptable enough
+to them. As our way lay in the same direction as theirs, I would
+gladly have taken their whole establishment on board the ships to
+convey them to Amitioke, but for the uncertain nature of this
+navigation, which might eventually have put it out of my power to
+land them at the precise place of their destination. The ice
+again opening, we were now obliged to dismiss them, after half an
+hour's visit, when, having run to the Hecla's bows to see Captain
+Lyon and his people, they returned to their sledge as fast as
+their loads of presents would allow them.</p>
+<p>We continued our progress northward, contending with the
+flood-tide and the drifting masses of ice; and the difficulties
+of such a navigation may be conceived from the following
+description of what happened to us on the 9th.</p>
+<p>At half past eight on the morning of the 9th, a considerable
+space of open water being left to the northward of us by the ice
+that had broken off the preceding night, I left the Fury in a
+boat for the purpose of sounding along the shore in that
+direction, in readiness for moving whenever the Hecla should be
+enabled to rejoin us. I found the soundings regular in almost
+every part, and had just landed to obtain a view from an
+eminence, when I was recalled by a signal from the Fury,
+appointed to inform me of the approach of any ice. On my return,
+I found the external body once more in rapid motion to the
+southward with the flood-tide, and assuming its usual threatening
+appearance. For an hour or two the Fury was continually grazed,
+and sometimes heeled over by a degree of pressure which, under
+any other circumstances, would not have been considered a
+moderate one, but which the last two or three days' navigation
+had taught us to disregard, when compared with what we had reason
+almost every moment to expect. A little before noon a heavy floe,
+some miles in length, being probably a part of that lately
+detached from the shore, came driving down fast towards us,
+giving us serious reason to apprehend some more fatal catastrophe
+than any we had yet encountered. In a few minutes it came in
+contact, at the rate of a mile and a half an hour, with a point
+of the land-ice left the preceding night by its own separation,
+breaking it up with a tremendous crash, and forcing numberless
+immense masses, perhaps many tons in weight, to the height of
+fifty or sixty feet, from whence they again rolled down on the
+inner or land side, and were quickly succeeded by a fresh supply.
+While we were obliged to be quiet spectators of this grand but
+terrific sight, being within five or six hundred yards of the
+point, the danger to ourselves was twofold; first, lest the floe
+should now swing in, and serve us much in the same manner; and,
+secondly, lest its pressure should detach the land-ice to which
+we were secured, and thus set us adrift and at the mercy of the
+tides. Happily, however, neither of these occurred, the floe
+remaining stationary for the rest of the tide, and setting off
+with the ebb which made soon after. In the mean while the Hecla
+had been enabled to get under sail, and was making considerable
+progress towards us, which determined me to move the Fury as soon
+as possible from her present situation into the bight I had
+sounded in the morning, where we made fast in five and a half
+fathoms alongside some very heavy grounded ice, one third of a
+mile from a point of land lying next to the northward of Cape
+Wilson, and which is low for a short distance next the sea. At
+nine o'clock a large mass of ice fell off the land-floe and
+struck our stern; and a "calf" lying under it, having lost its
+superincumbent weight, rose to the surface with considerable
+force, lifting our rudder violently in its passage, but doing no
+material injury.</p>
+<p>On the 12th, observing an opening in the land like a river, I
+left the ship in a boat to examine the soundings of the coast. On
+approaching the opening, we found so strong a current setting out
+of it as to induce me to taste the water, which proved scarcely
+brackish; and a little closer in, perfectly fresh, though the
+depth was from fourteen to fifteen fathoms. As this stream was a
+sufficient security against any ice coming in, I determined to
+anchor the ships somewhere in its neighbourhood; and, having laid
+down a buoy in twelve fathoms, off the north point of the
+entrance, returned on board, when I found all the boats ahead
+endeavouring to tow the ships in-shore. This could be effected,
+however, only by getting them across the stream of the inlet to
+the northern shore; and here, finding some land-ice, the ships
+were secured late at night, after several hours of extreme labour
+to the people in the boats.</p>
+<p>On the morning of the 13th, the ice being still close in with
+the land just to the northward of us, I determined on examining
+the supposed river in the boats, and, at the same time, to try
+our luck with the seines, as the place appeared a likely one for
+salmon. Immediately on opening the inlet we encountered a rapid
+current setting outward, and, after rowing a mile and a half to
+the N.W.b.W., the breadth of the stream varying from one third of
+a mile to four or five hundred yards, came to some shoal water
+extending quite across. Landing on the south shore and hauling
+the boats up above high-water mark, we rambled up the banks of
+the stream, which are low next the water, but rise almost
+immediately to the height of about two hundred feet. As we
+proceeded we gradually heard the noise of a fall of water; and
+being presently obliged to strike more inland, as the bank became
+more precipitous, soon obtained a fresh view of the stream
+running on a much higher level than before, and dashing with
+great impetuosity down two small cataracts. Just below this,
+however, where the river turns almost at a right angle, we
+perceived a much greater spray, as well as a louder sound; and,
+having walked a short distance down the bank, suddenly came upon
+the principal fall, of whose magnificence I am at a loss to give
+any adequate description. At the head of the fall, or where it
+commences its principal descent, the river is contracted to about
+one hundred and fifty feet in breadth, the channel being hollowed
+out through a solid rock of gneiss.</p>
+<p>After falling about fifteen feet at angle of 30&deg; with a
+vertical line, the width of the stream is still narrowed to about
+forty yards, and then, as if mustering its whole force previous
+to its final descent, is precipitated, in one vast, continuous
+sheet of water, almost perpendicular for ninety feet more. The
+dashing of the water from such a height produced the usual
+accompaniment of a cloud of spray broad columns of which were
+constantly forced up like the successive rushes of smoke from a
+vast furnace, and on this, near the top, a vivid <i>iris</i> or
+rainbow was occasionally formed by the bright rays of an
+unclouded sun. The basin that receives the water at the foot of
+the fall is nearly of a circular form, and about four hundred
+yards in diameter, being rather wider than the river immediately
+below it.</p>
+<p>After remaining nearly an hour, fixed, as it were, to the spot
+by the novelty and magnificence of the scene before us, we
+continued our walk upward along the banks; and after passing the
+two smaller cataracts, found the river again increased in width
+to above two hundred yards, winding in the most romantic manner
+imaginable among the hills, and preserving, a smooth and
+unruffled surface for a distance of three or four miles that we
+traced it to the southwest above the fall. What added extremely
+to the beauty of this picturesque river, which Captain Lyon and
+myself named after our friend Mr. BARROW, Secretary to the
+Admiralty, was the richness of the vegetation on its banks, the
+enlivening brilliancy of a cloudless sky, and the animation given
+to the scene by several reindeer that were grazing beside the
+stream. Our sportsmen were fortunate in obtaining four of these
+animals; but we had no success with the seines, the ground
+proving altogether too rocky to use them with advantage or
+safety. We returned on board at thirty minutes past two P.M.,
+after the most gratifying visit we had ever paid to the shore in
+these regions.</p>
+<p>We found on our return that a fresh, southerly breeze, which
+had been blowing for several hours, had driven the ice to some
+distance from the land; so that at four P.M., as soon as the
+flood-tide had slackened, we cast off and made all possible sail
+to the northward, steering for a headland, remarkable for having
+a patch of land towards the sea, that appeared insular in sailing
+along shore. As we approached this headland, which I named after
+my friend Mr. PENRHYN, the prospect became more and more
+enlivening; for the sea was found to be navigable in a degree
+very seldom experienced in these regions, and, the land trending
+two or three points to the westward of north, gave us reason to
+hope we should now be enabled to take a decided and final turn in
+that anxiously desired direction. As we rounded Cape Penrhyn at
+seven P.M., we began gradually to lose sight of the external body
+of ice, sailing close along that which was still attached in very
+heavy floes to this part of the coast. Both wind and tide being
+favourable, our progress was rapid, and unobstructed, and nothing
+could exceed the interest and delight with which so unusual an
+event was hailed by us. Before midnight the wind came more off
+the land, and then became light and variable, after which it
+settled in the northwest, with thick weather for several
+hours.</p>
+<p>In the course of this day the walruses became more and more
+numerous every hour, lying in large herds upon the loose pieces
+of drift-ice; and it having fallen calm at one P.M., we
+despatched our boats to kill some for the sake of the oil which
+they afford. On approaching the ice, our people found them
+huddled close to, and even lying upon, one another, in separate
+droves of from twelve to thirty, the whole number near the boats
+being perhaps about two hundred..Most of them waited quietly to
+be fired at: and even after one or two discharges did not seem to
+be greatly disturbed, but allowed the people to land on the ice
+near them, and, when approached, showed an evident disposition to
+give battle. After they had got into the water, three were struck
+with harpoons and killed from the boats. When first wounded they
+became quite furious, and one, which had been struck from Captain
+Lyon's boat, made a resolute attack upon her and injured several
+of the planks with its enormous tusks. A number of the others
+came round them, also repeatedly striking the wounded animals
+with their tusks, with the intention either of getting them away,
+or else of joining in the attack upon them. Many of these animals
+had young ones, which, when assaulted, they either took between
+their fore-flippers to carry off, or bore away on their backs.
+Both of those killed by the Fury's boats were females, and the
+weight of the largest was fifteen hundred and two quarters
+nearly; but it was by no means remarkable for the largeness of
+its dimensions. The peculiar barking noise made by the walrus
+when irritated, may be heard, on a calm day, with great
+distinctness at the distance of two miles at least. We found
+musket-balls the most certain and expeditious way of despatching
+them after they had been once struck with the harpoon, the
+thickness of their skin being such that whale-lances generally
+bend without penetrating it. One of these creatures being
+accidentally touched by one of the oars in Lieutenant Nias's
+boat, took hold of it between its flippers, and, forcibly
+twisting it out of the man's hand, snapped it in two. They
+produced us very little oil, the blubber being thin and poor at
+this season, but were welcomed in a way that had not been
+anticipated; for some quarters of this "marine beef," as Captain
+Cook has called it, being hung up for steaks, the meat was not
+only eaten, but eagerly sought after on this and every other
+occasion throughout the voyage, by all those among us who could
+overcome the prejudice arising chiefly from the dark colour of
+the flesh. In no other respect that I could ever discover, is the
+meat of the walrus, when fresh-killed, in the slightest degree
+unpalatable. The heart and liver are indeed excellent.</p>
+<p>After an unobstructed night's run, during which we met with no
+ice except in some loose "streams," the water became so much
+shoaler as to make it necessary to proceed with greater caution.
+About this time, also, a great deal of high land came in sight to
+the northward and eastward, which, on the first inspection of the
+Esquimaux charts, we took to be the large portion of land called
+<i>Ke=iyuk-tar-ruoke</i>,<a name='FNanchor_001_1'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_001_1'><sup>[001]</sup></a> between which and the
+continent the promised strait lay that was to lead us to the
+westward. So far all was satisfactory; but, after sailing a few
+miles farther, it is impossible to describe our disappointment
+and mortification in perceiving an unbroken sheet of ice
+extending completely across the supposed passage from one land to
+the other. This consisted of a floe so level and continuous, that
+a single glance was sufficient to assure us of the disagreeable
+fact, that it was the ice formed in its present situation during
+the winter, and still firmly attached to the land on every side.
+It was certain, from its continuous appearance for some miles
+that we ran along its edge, that it had suffered no disruption
+this season, which circumstance involved the necessity of our
+awaiting that operation, which nature seemed scarcely yet to have
+commenced in this neighbourhood, before we could hope to sail
+round the northeastern point of the American continent.</p>
+<p>At thirty minutes past nine A.M. we observed several tents on
+the low shore immediately abreast of us, and presently afterward
+five canoes made their appearance at the edge of the land-ice
+intervening between us and the beach. We soon found, by the
+cautious manner in which the canoes approached us, that our
+Winter Island friends had not yet reached this neighbourhood. In
+a few minutes after we had joined them, however, a few presents
+served to dissipate all their apprehensions, if, indeed, people
+could be said to entertain any who thus fearlessly met us half
+way; and we immediately persuaded them to turn back with us to
+the shore. Being under sail in the boat, with a fresh breeze, we
+took two of the canoes in tow, and dragged them along at a great
+rate, much to the satisfaction of the Esquimaux, who were very
+assiduous in piloting us to the best landing-place upon the ice,
+where we were met by several of their companions and conducted to
+the tents. Before we had reached the shore, however, we had
+obtained one very interesting piece of information, namely, that
+it was Igloolik on which we were now about to land, and that we
+must therefore have made a very near approach to the strait
+which, as we hoped, was to conduct us once more into the Polar
+Sea.</p>
+<p>We found here two divisions of tents, there being eleven where
+we landed, and five more about half a mile to the northward. By
+the time we reached the tents we were surrounded by a crowd of
+men, women, and children, all carrying some trifling article,
+which they offered in barter, a business they seemed to
+understand as well, and to need much more than their countrymen
+to the southward. We were, of course, not backward in promoting a
+good understanding by means of such presents as we had brought
+with us, but they seemed to have no idea of our giving them
+anything <i>gratis</i>, always offering some trifle in exchange,
+and expressing hesitation and surprise when we declined accepting
+it. This was not to be wondered at among people who scarcely know
+what a free gift is among themselves; but they were not long in
+getting rid of all delicacy or hesitation on this score.</p>
+<p>The tents, which varied in size according to the number of
+occupants, consisted of several seal and walrus skins, the former
+dressed without the hair, and the latter with the thick outer
+coat taken off, and the rest shaved thin, so as to allow of the
+transmission of light through it. These were put together in a
+clumsy and irregular patchwork, forming a sort of bag of a shape
+rather oval than round, and supported near the middle by a rude
+tent-pole composed of several deer's horns or the bones of other
+animals lashed together. At the upper end of this is attached
+another short piece of bone at right angles, for the purpose of
+extending the skins a little at the top, which is generally from
+six to seven feet from the ground. The lower part of the
+tent-pole rests on a large stone, to keep it from sinking into
+the ground, and, being no way secured, is frequently knocked down
+by persons accidentally coming against it, and again replaced
+upon the stone. The lower borders of the skins are held down by
+stones laid on them outside; and, to keep the whole fabric in an
+erect position, a line of thong is extended from the top, on the
+side where the door is, to a larger stone placed at some
+distance. The door consists merely of two flaps, contrived so as
+to overlap one another, and to be secured by a stone laid upon
+them at the bottom. This entrance faces the south or southeast;
+and as the wind was now blowing fresh from that quarter, and
+thick snow beginning to fall, these habitations did not impress
+us at first sight with a very favourable idea of the comfort and
+accommodation afforded by them. The interior of the tents may be
+described in few words. On one side of the end next the door is
+the usual stone lamp, resting on rough stones, with the
+<i>ootkooseek</i>, or cooking pot, suspended over it; and round
+this are huddled together, in great confusion, the rest of the
+women's utensils, together with great lumps of raw seahorse flesh
+and blubber, which at this season they enjoyed in most disgusting
+abundance. At the inner end of the tent, which is also the
+broadest, and occupying about one third of the whole apartment,
+their skins are laid as a bed, having under them some of the
+<i>andromeda tetragona</i> when the ground is hard, but in this
+case placed on the bare dry shingle. Comfortless as these simple
+habitations appeared to us in a snowstorm, they are, in general,
+not deficient in warmth as summer residences; and, being easily
+removed from place to place, they are certainly well suited to
+the wants and habits of this wandering people. When a larger
+habitation than usual is required, they contrive, by putting two
+of these together, to form a sort of double tent somewhat
+resembling a marquee, and supported by two poles. The difference
+between these tents and the one I had seen in Lyon Inlet the
+preceding autumn, struck me as remarkable, these having no
+<i>wall</i> of stones around them, as is usual in many that we
+have before met with, nor do I know their reason for adopting
+this different mode of construction.</p>
+<p>Even if it were not the natural and happy disposition of these
+people to be pleased, and to place implicit confidence wherever
+kind treatment is experienced, that confidence would soon have
+been ensured by our knowledge of their friends and relations to
+the southward, and the information which we were enabled to give
+respecting their late and intended movements. This, while it
+excited in them extreme surprise, served also at once to remove
+all distrust or apprehension, so that we soon found ourselves on
+the best terms imaginable. In return for all this interesting
+information, they gave us the names of the different portions of
+land in sight, many of which being recognised in their
+countrymen's charts, we no longer entertained a doubt of our
+being near the entrance of the strait to which all our hopes were
+directed. We now found also that a point of land in sight, a few
+miles to the southward of the tents, was near that marked
+<i>Ping-=it-k~a-l~ik</i> on Ewerat's chart, and that, therefore,
+the low shore along which we had been constantly sailing the
+preceding night was certainly a part of the continent.</p>
+<p>By the time we had distributed most of our presents, and told
+some long stories about Winter Island, to all which they listened
+with eager delight and interest, we found the weather becoming so
+inclement as to determine us to make the best of our way on
+board, and to take a more favourable opportunity of renewing our
+visit to the Esquimaux. After pulling out for an hour and a half,
+Captain Lyon, who had a boat's crew composed of officers, and
+had, unfortunately, broken one of his oars, was under the
+necessity of returning to the shore. My anxiety lest the ships
+should be ventured too near the shore, from a desire to pick up
+the boats, induced me to persevere an hour longer, when the wind
+having increased to a gale, which prevented our hearing any of
+the guns, I reluctantly bore up for our former landing-place.
+Captain Lyon and his party having quartered themselves at the
+southern tents, we took up our lodgings at the others, to which
+we were welcomed in the kindest and most hospitable manner. That
+we might incommode the Esquimaux as little as possible, we
+divided into parties of two in each tent, though they would
+willingly have accommodated twice that number. Immediately on our
+arrival they offered us dry boots, and it was not long before we
+were entirely "rigged out" in their dresses, which, thoroughly
+drenched as we were by the sea, proved no small comfort to us.
+With these, and a sealskin or two as a blanket, we kept ourselves
+tolerably warm during a most inclement night; and the tents,
+which but a few hours before we had looked upon as the most
+comfortless habitations imaginable, now afforded us a sufficient
+and most acceptable shelter.</p>
+<p>The evening was passed in dealing out our information from the
+southward, and never did any arrival excite more anxious
+inquiries than those we were now obliged to answer. So intimate
+was the knowledge we possessed respecting many of their
+relationships, that, by the help of a memorandum-book in which
+these had been inserted, I believe we almost at times excited a
+degree of superstitious alarm in their minds. This sort of
+gossip, and incessant chattering and laughing, continued till
+near midnight, when the numerous visitors in our tents began to
+retire to their own and to leave us to our repose. Awaking at
+four A.M. on the 17th, I found that the weather had moderated and
+cleared up, and the ships soon after appearing in sight, we
+called our boat's crew up, and sent one of the Esquimaux round to
+the other tents to inform Captain Lyon of our setting out.
+Several of the natives accompanied us to our boat, which they
+cheerfully helped us to launch, and then went round to another
+part of the beach for their own canoes. A thick fog had come on
+before this time, notwithstanding which, however, we managed to
+find the ships, and got on board by seven o'clock. Five canoes
+arrived soon after, and the wind being now light and variable, we
+lay-to for an hour to repay our kind friends for the hospitable
+reception they had given us. After supplying them abundantly with
+tin canisters, knives, and pieces of iron hoop, we hauled to the
+northeastward to continue our examination of the state of the
+ice, in hopes of finding that the late gale had in this respect
+done us some service.</p>
+<p>Finding that a farther examination of the eastern lands could
+not at present be carried on, without incurring the risk of
+hampering the ships at a time when, for aught that we knew, the
+ice might be breaking up at the entrance of the strait, we stood
+back to the westward, and, having fetched near the middle of
+Igloolik, were gratified in observing that a large "patch" of the
+fixed ice<a name='FNanchor_002_2'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_002_2'><sup>[002]</sup></a> had broken off and drifted
+out of sight during our absence. At nine A.M. we saw eleven
+canoes coming off from the shore, our distance from the tents
+being about four miles. We now hoisted two of them on board,
+their owners K=a-k~ee and N~u-y=ak-k~a being very well pleased
+with the expedient, to avoid damaging them alongside. Above an
+hour was occupied in endeavouring to gain additional information
+respecting the land to the westward, and the time when we might
+expect the ice to break up in the strait, after which we
+dismissed them with various useful presents, the atmosphere
+becoming extremely thick with snow, and threatening a repetition
+of the same inclement weather as we had lately experienced.</p>
+<p>On the 23d we went on shore to pay another visit to the
+Esquimaux, who came down on the ice in great numbers to receive
+us, repeatedly stroking down the front of their jackets with the
+palm of the hand as they advanced, a custom not before mentioned,
+as we had some doubt about it at Winter Island, and which they
+soon discontinued here. They also frequently called out
+<i>tima</i>, a word which, according to Hearne, signifies in the
+Esquimaux language, "What cheer!" and which Captain Franklin
+heard frequently used on first accosting the natives at the mouth
+of the Coppermine River. It seems to be among these people a
+salutation equivalent to that understood by these travellers, or
+at least some equally civil and friendly one, for nothing could
+exceed the attention which they paid us on landing. Some
+individual always attached himself to each of us immediately on
+our leaving the boat, pointing out the best road, and taking us
+by the hand or arm to help us over the streams of water or
+fissures in the ice, and attending us wherever we went during our
+stay on shore. The day proving extremely fine and pleasant,
+everything assumed a different appearance from that at our former
+visit, and we passed some hours on shore very agreeably. About
+half a mile inland of the tents, and situated upon the rising
+ground beyond the swamps and ponds before mentioned, we found the
+ruins of several winter habitations, which, upon land so low as
+Igloolik, formed very conspicuous objects at the distance of
+several miles to seaward. These were of the same circular and
+dome-like form as the snow-huts, but built with much more durable
+materials, the lower part or foundation being of stones, and the
+rest of the various bones of the whale and walrus, gradually
+inclining inward and meeting at the top. The crevices, as well as
+the whole of the outside, were then covered with turf, which,
+with the additional coating of snow in the winter, serves to
+exclude the cold air very effectually. The entrance is towards
+the south, and consists of a passage ten feet long, and not more
+than two in height and breadth, built of flat slabs of stone,
+having the same external covering as that of the huts. The beds
+are raised by stones two feet from the ground, and occupy about
+one third of the apartment at the inner end; and the windows and
+a part of the roofs had been taken away for the convenience of
+removing their furniture in the spring. It was a natural
+inference, from the nature of these habitations, that these
+people, or at least a portion of them, were constant residents on
+this spot, which, indeed, seemed admirably calculated to afford
+in luxurious profusion all that constitutes Esquimaux felicity.
+This, however, did not afterward prove to be absolutely the case;
+for though Igloolik (as perhaps the name may imply) is certainly
+one of their principal and favourite rendezvous, yet we
+subsequently found the inland entirely deserted by them at the
+same season.</p>
+<p>In every direction around the huts were lying innumerable
+bones of walruses and seals, together with sculls of dogs, bears,
+and foxes, on many of which a part of the putrid flesh still
+remaining sent forth the most offensive effluvia. We were not a
+little surprised to find also a number of human sculls lying
+about among the rest, within a few yards of the huts; and were
+somewhat inclined to be out of humour on this account with our
+new friends, who not only treated the matter with the utmost
+indifference, but, on observing that we were inclined to add some
+of them to our collections, went eagerly about to look for them,
+and tumbled, perhaps, the craniums of some of their own relations
+into our bag, without delicacy or remorse. In various other parts
+of the island we soon after met with similar relics no better
+disposed of; but we had yet to learn how little pains these
+people take to place their dead out of the reach of hungry bears
+or anatomical collectors.</p>
+<p>The account we gave of our visit to the shore naturally
+exciting the curiosity and interest of those who had not yet
+landed, and the ice remaining unchanged on the 24th, a couple of
+boats were despatched from each ship, with a large party of the
+officers and men, while the ships stood off and on. On the return
+of the boats in the evening, I found from Lieutenant Reid that a
+new family of the natives had arrived to-day from the main land,
+bringing with them a quantity of fine salmon and venison, of
+which some very acceptable samples were procured for both ships.
+Being desirous of following up so agreeable a kind of barter, I
+went on shore the next morning for that purpose, but could only
+procure a very small quantity of fish from the tent of the
+new-comer, a middle-aged, noisy, but remarkably intelligent and
+energetic man named <i>T=o=ol~em~ak</i>. After some conversation,
+we found from this man that, in order to obtain a fresh supply of
+fish, three days would be required; this prevented my putting in
+execution a plan of going out to the place where the fish were
+caught, which we at first understood to be near at hand. We
+therefore employed all our eloquence in endeavouring to procure a
+supply of this kind by means of the Esquimaux themselves, in
+which we at length so far succeeded, that Toolemak promised, for
+certain valuable considerations of wood and iron, to set out on
+this errand the following day.</p>
+<p>Shortly, after I returned on board Captain Lyon made the
+signal "to communicate with me," for the purpose of offering his
+services to accompany our fisherman on his proposed journey,
+attended by one of the Hecla's men; to which, in the present
+unfavourable state of the ice, I gladly consented, as the most
+likely means of procuring information of interest during this our
+unavoidable detention. Being equipped with a small tent,
+blankets, and four days' provision, Captain Lyon left us at ten
+P.M., when I made sail to re-examine the margin of the ice.</p>
+<p>It blew fresh from the eastward during the night of the 28th,
+with continued rain, all which we considered favourable for
+dissolving and dislodging the ice, though very comfortless for
+Captain Lyon on his excursion. The weather at length clearing up
+in the afternoon, I determined on beating to the eastward, to see
+if any more of the land in that direction could be made out than
+the unfavourable position of the ice would permit at our last
+visit. The Fury then made sail and stood to the eastward,
+encountering the usual strength of tide off the southwest point
+of Tangle Island, and soon after a great quantity of heavy
+drift-ice, apparently not long detached from some land.</p>
+<p>I determined to avoid, if possible, the entanglement of the
+Fury among the ice, which now surrounded her on every side, and
+to stand back to Igloolik, to hear what information Captain
+Lyon's journey might have procured for us.</p>
+<p>At the distance of one third of a mile from Tangle Island,
+where we immediately gained the open sea beyond, we observed the
+Hecla standing towards us, and rejoined her at a quarter before
+eleven, when Captain Lyon came on board to communicate the result
+of his late journey, of which he furnished me with the following
+account, accompanied by a sketch of the lands he had seen, as far
+as the extremely unfavourable state of the weather would
+permit.</p>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>"Accompanied by George Dunn, I found Toolemak on landing, who
+welcomed us to his tent, in which for two hours it was scarcely
+possible to move, in consequence of the crowd who came to gaze at
+us. A new deerskin was spread for me, and Dunn having found a
+corner for himself, we all lay down to sleep, not, however, until
+our host, his wife, their little son, and a dog, had turned in
+beside me, under cover of a fine warm skin, all naked except the
+lady, who, with the decorum natural to her sex, kept on a part of
+her clothes. At ten A.M. we started, and found the sledge on a
+beach near the southern ice. Four men were to accompany us on
+this vehicle, and the good-natured fellows volunteered to carry
+our luggage. A second sledge was under the charge of three boys
+who had eight dogs, while our team consisted of eleven. The
+weather was so thick that at times we could not see a quarter of
+a mile before us, but yet went rapidly forward to the W.N.W.,
+when, after about six hours, we came to a high, bold land, and a
+great number of islands of reddish granite, wild and barren in
+the extreme. We here found the ice in a very decayed state, and
+in many places the holes and fissures were difficult if not
+dangerous to pass. At the expiration of eight hours, our
+impediments in this respect had increased to such a degree as to
+stop our farther progress. Dunn, the old man, and myself
+therefore walked over a small island, beyond which we saw a sheet
+of water, which precluded any farther advance otherwise than by
+boats.</p>
+<p>"In the hope that the morning would prove more favourable for
+our seeing the land, the only advantage now to be derived from
+our visit, since the fishing place was not attainable, it was
+decided to pass the night on one of the rocky islands. The
+Esquimaux having brought no provisions with them, I distributed
+our four days' allowance of meat in equal proportions to the
+whole party, who afterward lay down to sleep on the rocks, having
+merely a piece of skin to keep the rain from their faces. In this
+comfortless state they remained very quietly for eight hours. Our
+little hunting-tent just held Dunn and myself, although not in a
+very convenient manner; but it answered the purpose of keeping us
+dry, except from a stream of water that ran under us all
+night.</p>
+<p>"The morning of the 27th was rather fine for a short time, and
+we saw above thirty islands, which I named COXE'S GROUP, varying
+in size from one hundred yards to a mile or more in length. Two
+deer were observed on the northern land, which was called
+<i>Khead-Laghioo</i> by the Esquimaux, and Toolemak accompanied
+Dunn in chase of them. On crossing to bring over our game, we
+found the old Esquimaux had skinned and broken up the deer after
+his own manner, and my companions being without food, I divided
+it into shares.</p>
+<p>"Arriving on the ice, a skin was taken from the sledge as a
+seat, and we all squatted down to a repast which was quite new to
+me. In ten minutes the natives had picked the deer's bones so
+clean that even the hungry dogs disdained to gnaw them a second
+time. Dunn and myself made our breakfast on a choice slice cut
+from the spine, and found it so good, the windpipe in particular,
+that at dinner-time we preferred the same food to our share of
+the preserved meat which we had saved from the preceding
+night.</p>
+<p>"As we sat I observed the moschetoes to be very numerous, but
+they were lying in a half torpid state on the ice, and incapable
+of molesting us. Soon after noon we set forward on our return,
+and, without seeing any object but the flat and decaying ice,
+passed from land to land with our former celerity, dashing
+through large pools of water much oftener than was altogether
+agreeable to men who had not been dry for above thirty hours, or
+warm for a still longer period. Our eleven dogs were large,
+fine-looking animals, and an old one of peculiar sagacity was
+placed at their head by having a longer trace, so as to lead them
+over the safest and driest places, for these animals have a great
+dread of water. The leader was instant in obeying the voice of
+the driver, who did not beat, but repeatedly talked and called it
+by name. It was beautiful to observe the sledges racing to the
+same object, the dogs and men in full cry, and the vehicles
+splashing through the water with the velocity of rival
+stage-coaches.</p>
+<p>"We were joyfully welcomed to the dwelling of Ooyarra, whose
+guest I was now to become, and the place of honour, the deerskin
+seat, was cleared for my reception. His two wives,
+<i>K~ai-m=o=o-khi~ak</i> and <i>Aw~a-r=un-n~i</i> occupied one
+end, for it was a double tent; while at the opposite extremity
+the parents of the senior wife were established. The old mother
+N=ow-k~it-y~oo assisted the young woman in pulling off our wet
+clothes and boots, which latter being of native manufacture, she
+new-soled and mended without any request on our side, considering
+us as a part of the family. Dunn slept in the little tent to
+watch our goods, and I had a small portion of Ooyarra's screened
+off for me by a seal's skin. My host and his wives having retired
+to another tent, and my visitors taking compassion on me, I went
+comfortably to sleep; but at midnight was awakened by a feeling
+of great warmth, and, to my surprise, found myself covered by a
+large deerskin, under which lay my friend, his two wives, and
+their favourite puppy, all fast asleep and stark naked. Supposing
+this was all according to rule, I left them to repose in peace,
+and resigned myself to sleep.</p>
+<p>"On rising, Dunn and I washed with soap in a pond, which
+caused great speculations among the by-standers, on some of whom
+we afterward performed miracles in the cleansing way. A large
+assemblage being collected to hear me talk of Ney-uning-Eitua, or
+Winter Island, and to see us eat, the women volunteered to cook
+for us; and, as we preferred a fire in the open air to their
+lamps, the good-natured creatures sat an hour in the rain to stew
+some venison which we had saved from our shares of the deer. The
+fires in summer, when in the open air, are generally made of
+bones previously well rubbed with blubber, and the female who
+attends the cooking chews a large piece, from which, as she
+extracts the oil, she spirts it on the flame.</p>
+<p>"After noon, as I lay half asleep, a man came, and, taking me
+by the hand, desired Dunn to follow. He led to a tent, which,
+from the stillness within, I conjectured was untenanted. Several
+men stood near the door, and, on entering, I found eighteen women
+assembled and seated in regular order, with the seniors in front.
+In the centre, near the tent-pole, stood two men, who, when I was
+seated on a large stone, walked slowly round, and one began
+dancing in the usual manner, to the favourite tune of 'Amna aya.'
+The second person, as I soon found, was the dancer's assistant;
+and, when the principal had pretty well exhausted himself, he
+walked gravely up to him, and, taking his head between his hands,
+performed a ceremony called <i>K=o=on~ik</i>, which is rubbing
+noses, to the great amusement and amid the plaudits of the whole
+company. After this, as if much refreshed, he resumed his
+performance, occasionally, however, taking a koonik to enliven
+himself and the spectators. The rub-<i>bee</i>, if I may be
+excused the expression, was at length brought forward and put in
+the place of the first dancer, who rushed out of the tent to cool
+himself. In this manner five or six couples exhibited
+alternately, obtaining more or less applause, according to the
+oddity of their grimaces. At length a witty fellow, in
+consequence of some whispering and tittering among the ladies,
+advanced and gave me the koonik, which challenge I Was obliged to
+answer by standing up to dance, and my nose was in its turn most
+severely rubbed, to the great delight of all present.</p>
+<p>"Having been as patient as could be wished for above an hour,
+and being quite overpowered by the heat of the crowded tent, I
+made a hasty retreat, after having distributed needles to all the
+females, and exacting kooniks from all the prettiest in return. A
+general outcry was now made for Dunn, a most quiet North
+countryman, to exhibit also; but he, having seen the liberties
+which had been taken with my nose, very prudently made his
+retreat, anticipating what would be his fate if he remained.</p>
+<p>"During a short, interval of fine weather, we hung out our
+clothes to dry, and the contents of our knapsacks, instruments,
+knives, and beads were strewed on the ground, while we went
+inland to shoot a few ducks. We cautioned no one against
+thieving, and were so much at their mercy that everything might
+have been taken without a possibility of detection; yet not a
+single article was found to have been removed from its place at
+our return. At night I was attended by the same bedfellows as
+before; the young puppy, however, being now better acquainted,
+took up his quarters in my blanket-bag, as from thence he could
+the more easily reach a quantity of walrus-flesh which lay near
+my head; and I was awakened more than once by finding him gnawing
+a lump by my side.</p>
+<p>"On the morning of the 29th I was really glad to find that the
+ships were not yet in sight, as I should be enabled to pass
+another day among the hospitable natives. While making my rounds
+I met several others, who were also visiting, and who each
+invited me to call at his tent in its turn. Wherever I entered,
+the master rose and resigned his seat next his wife or wives, and
+stood before me or squatted on a stone near the door. I was then
+told to 'speak!' or, in fact, to give a history of all I knew of
+the distant tribe, which, from constant repetition, I could now
+manage pretty well. In one tent I found a man mending his paddle,
+which was ingeniously made of various little scraps of wood,
+ivory, and bone, lashed together. He put it into my hands to
+repair, taking it for granted that a Kabloona would succeed much
+better than himself. An hour afterward the poor fellow came and
+took me by the hand to his tent, where I found a large pot of
+walrus-flesh evidently cooked for me. His wife licked a piece and
+offered it, but, on his saying something to her, took out
+another, and, having pared off the outside, gave me the clean
+part, which, had it been carrion, I would not have hurt these
+poor creatures by refusing. The men showed me some curious
+puzzles with knots on their fingers, and I did what I could in
+return. The little girls were very expert in a singular but dirty
+amusement, which consisted in drawing a piece of sinew up their
+nostrils and producing the end out of their mouths. The elder
+people were, for the most part, in chase of the tormentors, which
+swarmed in their head and clothes; and I saw, for the first time,
+an ingenious contrivance for detaching them from the back, or
+such parts of the body as the hands could not reach. This was the
+rib of a seal, having a bunch of the whitest of a deer's hair
+attached to one end of it, and on this rubbing the places which
+require it, the little animals stick to it; from their colour
+they are easily detected, and, of course, consigned to the mouths
+of the hunters.</p>
+<p>"The weather clearing in the afternoon, one ship was seen in
+the distance, which diffused a general joy among the people, who
+ran about screaming and dancing with delight. While lounging
+along the beach, and waiting the arrival of the ship, I proposed
+a game at 'leap frog,' which was quite new to the natives, and in
+learning which some terrible falls were made. Even the women with
+the children at their backs would not be outdone by the men, and
+they formed a grotesque party of opposition jumpers. Tired with a
+long exhibition, I retreated to the tent, but was allowed a very
+short repose, as I was soon informed that the people from the
+farthest tents were come to see my performance, and, on going
+out, I found five men stationed at proper distances with their
+heads down for me to go over them, which I did amid loud cries of
+<i>koyenna</i> (thanks).</p>
+<p>"As the ship drew near in the evening, I perceived her to be
+the Hecla, but, not expecting a boat so late, lay down to sleep.
+I soon found my mistake, for a large party came drumming on the
+side of the tent, and crying out that a 'little ship' was coming,
+and, in fact, I found the boat nearly on shore. Ooyarra's senior
+wife now anxiously begged to tattoo a little figure on my arm,
+which she had no sooner done than the youngest insisted on making
+the same mark; and while all around were running about and
+screaming in the greatest confusion, these two poor creatures sat
+quietly down to embellish me. When the boat landed, a general
+rush was made for the privilege of carrying our things down to
+it. Awarunni, who owned the little dog which slept with me, ran
+and threw him as a present into the boat; when, after a general
+koonik, we pushed off, fully sensible of the kind hospitality we
+had received. Toolemak and Ooyarra came on board in my boat, in
+order to pass the night and receive presents, and we left the
+beach under three hearty cheers."</p>
+</div>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c002_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c002">CHAPTER XI.</a></h2>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>A Whale killed.&mdash;Other Charts drawn by the
+Esquimaux.&mdash;Account of a Journey to the Narrows of the
+Strait.&mdash;Discovery of the Sea to the Westward.&mdash;Total
+Disruption of the Ice at the Eastern Entrance of the
+Strait.&mdash;Instance of local Attraction on the
+Compasses.&mdash;Sail through the Narrows, and again stopped by
+fixed Ice.&mdash;Account of several Land Journeys and Boat
+Excursions.&mdash;Observations on the Tides.&mdash;Continued
+Obstacles from fixed Ice.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p><i>Aug.</i> 1.&mdash;The information obtained by Captain Lyon
+on his late journey with the Esquimaux served very strongly to
+confirm all that had before been understood from those people
+respecting the existence of the desired passage to the westward
+in this neighbourhood, though the impossibility of Captain Lyon's
+proceeding farther in that direction, combined with our imperfect
+knowledge of the language, still left us in some doubt as to the
+exact position of the strait in question. While, therefore,
+Captain Lyon was acquainting me with his late proceedings, we
+shaped a course for Igloolik, in order to continue our look-out
+upon the ice, and made the tents very accurately by the compass,
+after a run of five leagues.</p>
+<p>The present state of the ice, which was thin and "rotten,",
+served no less to excite our surprise than to keep alive our
+hopes and expectations. The spaces occupied respectively by ice
+and holes were about equal; and so extensive and dangerous were
+the latter, that the men could with extreme difficulty walk
+twenty or thirty yards from the ship to place the anchors, and
+that at no small risk of falling through. We were astonished,
+therefore, to find with what tenacity a field of ice, whose parts
+appeared thus loosely joined, still continued to hang together,
+notwithstanding the action of the swell that almost constantly
+set upon its margin.</p>
+<p>We had for several days past occasionally seen black whales
+about the ships, and our boats were kept in constant readiness to
+strike one, for the sake of the oil, in which endeavour they at
+length succeeded this morning. The usual signal being exhibited,
+all the boats were sent to their assistance, and in less than an
+hour and a half had killed and secured the fish, which proved a
+moderate-sized one of above "nine feet bone," exactly suiting our
+purpose. The operation of "flinching" this animal, which was
+thirty-nine feet and a half in length, occupied most of the
+afternoon, each ship taking half the blubber and hauling it on
+the ice, "to make off" or put into casks.</p>
+<p>As soon as we had completed the stowage of the blubber, and
+washed the ships and people's clothes, we cast off on the 6th,
+taking in tow the carcass of the whale (technically called the
+"crang") for our friends at Igloolik. The wind dying away when
+the ships were off the northeast end of the island, the boats
+were despatched to tow the whale on shore, while Captain Lyon and
+myself went ahead to meet some of the canoes that were paddling
+towards us. We soon joined eleven of them, and on our informing
+the Esquimaux of the prize the boats were bringing them, they
+paddled off with great delight. When they arrived at the spot,
+and had civilly asked permission to eat some of it, they dropped
+their canoes astern to the whale's tail, from which they cut off
+enormous lumps of flesh and ravenously devoured it; after which
+they followed our boats in-shore, where the carcass was made fast
+to a mass of grounded ice for their future disposal.</p>
+<p>As we made several tacks off the island next to the northward
+of Igloolik, called by the Esquimaux <i>Neerlo-Nackto</i>, two
+canoes came off to us, in one of which was Toolemak. He and his
+companions came on board the Fury, when I employed him for a
+couple of hours in drawing a chart of the strait. Toolemak,
+though a sensible and intelligent man, we soon found to be no
+draughtsman, so that his performance in this way, if taken alone,
+was not a very intelligible delineation of the coast. By dint,
+however, of a great deal of talking on his part, and some
+exercise of patience on ours, we at length obtained a copious
+verbal illustration of his sketch, which confirmed all our former
+accounts respecting the existence of a passage to the westward in
+this immediate neighbourhood, and the large extent of land on the
+northern side of the strait. Toolemak also agreed with our other
+Esquimaux informants in stating, that from the coast of Akkoolee
+no land is visible to the westward; nor was any ever heard of in
+that direction by the Esquimaux. This fact they uniformly assert
+with a whine of sorrow, meaning thereby to intimate that their
+knowledge and resources are there both at an end.</p>
+<p>The disruption of the ice continued to proceed slowly till
+early on the morning of the 14th; the breeze having freshened
+from the northwest, another floe broke away from the fixed ice,
+allowing us to gain about half a mile more to the westward; such
+was the vexatious slowness with which we were permitted to
+advance towards the object of our most anxious wishes!</p>
+<p>On the 14th I left the ship with Mr. Richards and four men,
+and furnished with provisions for ten days, intending, if
+possible, to reach the main land at a point where we could
+overlook the strait. In this we succeeded after a journey of four
+days, arriving on the morning of the 18th at the extreme northern
+point of a peninsula, overlooking the narrowest part of the
+desired strait, which lay immediately below us in about an east
+and west direction, being two miles in width, apparently very
+deep, and with a tide or current of at least two knots, setting
+the loose ice through to the eastward. Beyond us, to the west,
+the shores again separated to the distance of several leagues;
+and for more than three points of the compass, in that direction,
+no land could be seen to the utmost limits of a clear horizon,
+except one island six or seven miles distant. Over this we could
+not entertain a doubt of having discovered the Polar Sea; and,
+loaded as it was with ice, we already felt as if we were on the
+point of forcing our way through it along the northern shores of
+America.</p>
+<p>After despatching one of our party to the foot of the point
+for some of the sea-water, which was found extremely salt to the
+taste, we hailed the interesting event of the morning by three
+hearty cheers and by a small extra allowance of grog to our
+people, to drink a safe and speedy passage through the channel
+just discovered, which I ventured to name, by anticipation, THE
+STRAIT OF THE FURY AND HECLA. Having built a pile of stones upon
+the promontory, which, from its situation with respect to the
+Continent of America, I called CAPE NORTHEAST, we walked back to
+our tent and baggage, these having, for the sake of greater
+expedition, been left two miles behind; and, after resting a few
+hours, set out at three P.M. on our return.</p>
+<p>We reached the ships at ten o'clock P.M. on Tuesday the 20th.
+On almost all the shores both of the main land and islands that
+we visited, some traces of the Esquimaux were found; but they
+were less numerous than in any other places on which we had
+hitherto landed. This circumstance rather seemed to intimate, as
+we afterward found to be the case, that the shores of the strait
+and its immediate neighbourhood are not a frequent resort of the
+natives during the summer months.</p>
+<p>We got under way on the 21st, were off Cape Northeast on the
+26th, and I gave the name of CAPE OSSORY to the eastern point of
+the northern land of the Narrows; but on that day, after clearing
+two dangerous shoals, and again deepening our soundings, we had
+begun to indulge the most flattering hopes of now making such a
+rapid progress as would in some degree compensate for all our
+delays and disappointments, when, at once to crush every
+expectation of this sort, it was suddenly announced from the
+crow's nest that another barrier of <i>fixed</i> ice stretched
+completely across the strait, a little beyond us, in one
+continuous and impenetrable field, still occupying its winter
+station. In less than an hour we had reached its margin, when,
+finding this report but too correct, and that, therefore, all
+farther progress was at present as impracticable as if no strait
+existed, we ran the ships under all sail for the floe, which
+proved so "rotten" and decayed that the ships forced themselves
+three or four hundred yards through it before they stopped.
+Keeping all our canvass spread, we then tried to break the thin
+edges about the numerous holes, by dropping weights over the
+bows, as well as by various other equally ineffectual expedients;
+but the ice was "tough" enough to resist every effort of this
+kind, though its watery state was such as to increase, if
+possible, our annoyance at being stopped by it. The passage to
+the northward of the island was not even so clear as this by
+above two miles of ice, so that in every respect our present
+route was to be preferred to the other; and thus, after a
+vexatious delay of six weeks at the eastern entrance of the
+strait, and at a time when we had every reason to hope that
+nature, though hitherto tardy in her annual disruption of the
+ice, had at length made an effort to complete it, did we find our
+progress once more opposed by a barrier of the same continuous,
+impenetrable, and hopeless nature as at first!</p>
+<p>As soon as the anchors were dropped, my attention was once
+more turned to the main object of the expedition, from which it
+had for a moment been diverted by the necessity of exerting every
+effort for the immediate safety of the ships. This being now
+provided for, I had leisure to consider in what manner, hampered
+as the ships were by the present state of the ice, our means and
+exertions might, during this unavoidable detention, be employed
+to the greatest advantage, or, at least, with the best prospect
+of ultimate utility.</p>
+<p>Whatever doubts might at a distance have been entertained
+respecting the identity, or the contrary, of the place visited by
+Captain Lyon with that subsequently discovered by myself, there
+could be none on a nearer view; as, independently of the observed
+latitude, Captain Lyon could not, on approaching the narrows,
+recognise a single feature of the land; our present channel being
+evidently a much wider and more extensive one than that pointed
+out by Toolemak, on the journey. It became, therefore, a matter
+of interest, now that this point was settled and our progress
+again stopped by an insuperable obstacle, to ascertain the extent
+and communication of the southern inlet; and, should it prove a
+second strait, to watch the breaking up of the ice about its
+eastern entrance, that no favourable opportunity might be missed
+of pushing through it to the westward. I therefore determined to
+despatch three separate parties, to satisfy all doubts in that
+quarter, as well as to gain every possible information as to the
+length of the strait, and the extent of the fixed ice now more
+immediately before us.</p>
+<p>With this view, I requested Captain Lyon to take with him Mr.
+Griffiths and four men, and proceed overland in a S.b.E.
+direction, till he should determine, by the difference of
+latitude, which amounted only to sixteen miles, whether there was
+or was not a strait leading to the westward, about the parallel
+of 69&deg; 26', being nearly that in which the place called by
+the Esquimaux <i>Kh=emig</i> had been found by observation to
+lie. In the mean time, Lieutenant Palmer was directed to proceed
+in a boat to Igloolik, or Neerlo-Nackto, as might be necessary,
+to ascertain whether the passage leading towards Kh=emig was yet
+clear of ice; and, should he find any one of the Esquimaux
+willing to accompany him to the ships with his canoe, to bring
+him on board as a pilot. The third party consisted of Mr.
+Bushnan, with three men, under the command of Lieutenant Reid,
+who was instructed to proceed along the continental coast to the
+westward, to gain as much information as possible respecting the
+termination of our present strait, the time of his return to the
+ships being limited to four days, at the expiration of which the
+other two parties might also be expected to reach us.</p>
+<p>On the morning of the 29th, the wind being light from the
+eastward, but the weather much more clear than before, we weighed
+and stood over to the mainland with the intention of putting our
+travellers on shore, but found that coast now so lined with the
+ice which had lately broken adrift that it was not possible for a
+boat to approach it. Standing off to the westward, to see what
+service the late disruption had done us, we found that a
+considerable floe had separated, exactly in a line between the
+island off which we lay and a second to the westward of it,
+subsequently named in honour of LORD AMHERST. Tacking at the
+newly-formed margin of the fixed ice, we observed, not only that
+it was still firmly attached to the shores, but that it was now
+almost entirely "hummocky," and heavier than any we had seen
+since making Igloolik; some of the hummocks, as we afterward
+found, measuring from eight to ten feet above the surface of the
+sea.</p>
+<p>The different character now assumed by the ice, while it
+certainly damped our hopes of the passage being cleared this
+season by the gradual effects of dissolution, confirmed, however,
+in a very satisfactory manner, the belief of our being in a broad
+channel communicating with a western sea. As the conclusions we
+immediately drew from this circumstance may not be so obvious to
+others, I shall here briefly explain that, from the manner in
+which the hummocky floes are formed, it is next to impossible
+that any of these of considerable extent can ever be produced in
+a mere inlet having a narrow communication with the sea. There
+is, in fact, no ice to which the denomination of "sea-ice" may be
+more strictly and exclusively applied than this; and we therefore
+felt confident that the immense floes which now opposed our
+progress must have come from the sea on one side or the other;
+while the current, which we had observed to run in an easterly
+direction in the narrows, of this strait, precluded the
+possibility of such ice having found its way in from that
+quarter. The only remaining conclusion was, that it must have
+been set into the strait from the westward towards the close of a
+summer, and cemented in its present situation by the frost of the
+succeeding winter.</p>
+<p>A great deal of snow having fallen in the last two days,
+scarcely a dark patch was now to be seen on any part of the land,
+so that the prospect at daylight on the 30th was as comfortless
+as can well be imagined for the parties who were just about to
+find their way among the rocks and precipices. Soon after four
+A.M., however, when we had ascertained that the drift-ice was no
+longer lying in their way, they were all despatched in their
+different directions. For each of the land-parties a dep&ocirc;t
+of several days' provision and fuel was, in case of accidents,
+established on the beach; and Lieutenant Palmer took in his boat
+a supply for nine days.</p>
+<p>On the 31st the wind blew fresh and cold from the northwest,
+which caused a quantity of ice to separate from the fixed floe in
+small pieces during the day, and drift past the ships. Early in
+the morning, a she-bear and her two cubs were observed floating
+down on one of these masses, and, coming close to the Hecla, were
+all killed. The female proved remarkably small, two or three men
+being able to lift her into a boat.</p>
+<p>At half past nine on the morning of the 1st of September, one
+of our parties was descried at the appointed rendezvous on shore,
+which, on our sending a boat to bring them on board, proved to be
+Captain Lyon and his people. From their early arrival we were in
+hopes that some decisive information had at length been obtained;
+and our disappointment may therefore be imagined, in finding
+that, owing to insuperable obstacles, on the road, he had not
+been able to advance above five or six miles to the southward,
+and that with excessive danger and fatigue, owing to the depth of
+the snow, and the numerous lakes and precipices.</p>
+<p>At nine A.M. on the 2d, Lieutenant Reid and his party were
+descried at their landing-place, and a boat being sent for them,
+arrived on board at half past eleven. He reported that the ice
+seemed to extend from Amherst Island as far as they could see to
+the westward, presenting one unbroken surface from the north to
+the south shore of the strait.</p>
+<p>Notwithstanding every exertion on the part of our travellers,
+their labours had not thrown much light on the geography of this
+part of the coast, nor added any information that could be of
+practical use in directing the operations of the ships. The
+important question respecting a second passage leading to the
+westward still remained as much a matter of mere conjecture as at
+first; while the advanced period of the season, and the
+unpromising appearance of the ice now opposing our progress,
+rendered it more essential than ever that this point should, if
+possible, be decided. Under this impression it occurred to me,
+that the desired object might possibly be accomplished by
+pursuing the route along the head or western shore of Richards's
+Bay, part of which I had already traversed on my former journey,
+and found it much less laborious walking than that experienced by
+Captain Lyon on the higher and more rugged mountains inland. I
+determined, therefore, to make this attempt, taking with me Mr.
+Richards and most of my former companions.</p>
+<p>This night proved the coldest we had experienced during the
+present season, and the thermometer stood at 24&deg; when I left
+the ships at four A.M. on the 3d, having previously directed
+Captain Lyon to remain as near their present station as might be
+consistent with safety, and carefully watch for any alteration
+that might occur in the western ice.</p>
+<p>Being favoured by a strong northwesterly breeze, we reached
+the narrows at half past six A.M., and immediately encountered a
+race or ripple, so heavy and dangerous that it was only by
+carrying a press of canvass on the boat that we succeeded in
+keeping the seas from constantly breaking into her. This rippling
+appeared to be occasioned by the sudden obstruction which the
+current meets at the western mouth of the narrows, aided, in the
+present instance, by the strong breeze that blew directly upon
+the corner forming the entrance on the south side.</p>
+<p>Having landed at Cape Northeast, I made sail for the isthmus
+at ten A.M., where we arrived after an hour's run; and hauling
+the boat up on the rocks, and depositing the greater part of our
+stores near her, set off at one P.M. along the shore of
+Richards's Bay, being equipped with only three days' provision,
+and as small a weight of clothing as possible. The coast, though
+not bad for travelling, led us so much more to the westward than
+I expected, in consequence of its numerous indentations, that,
+after above five hours' hard walking, we had only made good a
+W.S.W. course, direct distance six miles. We obtained on every
+eminence a distinct view of the ice the whole way down to
+Neerlo-nakto, in which space not a drop of clear water was
+discernible; the whole of Richards's Bay was filled with ice as
+before.</p>
+<p>We moved at six P.M. on the 4th, and soon came to a number of
+lakes from half a mile to two miles in length occurring in chains
+of three or four together, round which we had to walk, at the
+expense of much time and labour. At half past six, on gaining a
+sight of the sea from the top of a hill, we immediately
+recognised to the eastward the numerous islands of red granite
+described by Captain Lyon; and now perceived, what had before
+been surmised, that the south shore of Richards's Bay formed the
+northern coast of the inlet, up which his journey with the
+Esquimaux had been pursued. Our latitude, by account from noon,
+being now 69&deg; 28', we felt confident that a short walk
+directly to the south must bring us to any strait communicating
+with that inlet, and we therefore pushed on in confident
+expectation of being near our journey's end. At seven P.M.,
+leaving the men to pitch the tent in a sheltered valley, Mr.
+Richards and myself ascended the hill that rose beyond it, and,
+on reaching its summit, found ourselves overlooking a long and
+narrow arm of the sea communicating with the inlet before seen to
+the eastward, and appearing to extend several miles nearly in an
+east and west direction, or parallel to the table-land before
+described, from which it is distant three or four miles. That the
+creek we now overlooked was a part of the same arm of the sea
+which Captain Lyon had visited, the latitude, the bearings of
+Igloolik, which was now plainly visible, and the number and
+appearance of the Coxe Islands, which were too remarkable to be
+mistaken, all concurred in assuring us; and it only, therefore,
+remained for us to determine whether it would furnish a passage
+for the ships. Having made all the remarks which the lateness of
+the evening would permit, we descended to the tent at dusk, being
+directed by a cheerful, blazing fire of the <i>andromeda
+tetragona</i>, which, in its present dry state, served as
+excellent fuel for warming our provisions.</p>
+<p>Setting forward at five A.M. on the 5th, along some pleasant
+valleys covered with grass and other vegetation, and the resort
+of numerous reindeer, we walked six or seven miles in a direction
+parallel to that of the creek; when, finding the latter
+considerably narrowed, and the numerous low points of its south
+shore rendering the water too shoal, to all appearance, even for
+the navigation of a sloop of ten tons, I determined to waste no
+more time in the farther examination of so insignificant a place.
+The farther we went to the westward, the higher the hills became;
+and the commanding prospect thus afforded enabled us distinctly
+to perceive with a glass that, though the ice had become entirely
+dissolved in the creek, and for half a mile below it, the whole
+sea to the eastward, even as far as Igloolik, was covered with
+one continuous and unbroken floe.</p>
+<p>Having now completely satisfied myself, that, as respected
+both ice and land, there was no navigable passage for ships about
+this latitude, no time was lost in setting out on our return.</p>
+<p>At half past eight we arrived on board, where I was happy to
+find that all our parties had returned without accident, except
+that Lieutenant Palmer had been wounded in his hand and
+temporarily blinded by a gun accidentally going off, from which,
+however, he fortunately suffered no eventual injury.</p>
+<p>The result of our late endeavours, necessarily cramped as they
+had been, was to confirm, in the most satisfactory manner, the
+conviction that we were now in the only passage leading to the
+westward that existed in this neighbourhood. Notwithstanding,
+therefore, the present unpromising appearance of the ice, I had
+no alternative left me but patiently to await its disruption, and
+instantly to avail myself of any alteration that nature might yet
+effect in our favour.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c003_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c003">CHAPTER XII.</a></h2>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>A Journey performed along the South Shore of Cockburn
+Island.&mdash;Confirmation of an Outlet to the Polar
+Sea.&mdash;Partial Disruption of the Old Ice, and formation of
+New.&mdash;Return through the Narrows to the
+Eastward.&mdash;Proceed to examine the Coast to the
+Northeastward.&mdash;Fury's Anchor broken.&mdash;Stand over to
+Igloolik to look for Winter-quarters.&mdash;Excursion to the Head
+of Quilliam Creek.&mdash;Ships forced to the Westward by Gales of
+Wind&mdash;A Canal sawed through the Ice, and the Ships secured
+in their Winter Station.&mdash;Continued Visits of the Esquimaux,
+and Arrival of some of the Winter Island Tribe.&mdash;Proposed
+Plan of Operations in the ensuing Spring.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p>A light air springing up from the eastward on the morning of
+the 8th, we took advantage of it to run up the margin of the
+fixed ice, which was now, perhaps, half a mile farther to the
+westward, in consequence of small pieces being occasionally
+detached from it, than it had been when we tacked off it ten days
+before.</p>
+<p>The pools on the floes were now so hardly frozen, that skating
+and sliding were going on upon them the whole day, though but a
+week before it had been dangerous to venture upon them.</p>
+<p>This latter circumstance, together with the fineness of the
+weather, and the tempting appearance of the shore of Cockburn
+Island, which seemed better calculated for travelling than any
+that we had seen, combined to induce me to despatch another party
+to the westward, with the hope of increasing, by the only means
+within our reach, our knowledge of the lands and sea in that
+direction. Lieutenant Reid and Mr. Bushnan were once more
+selected for that service, to be accompanied by eight men, a
+large number being preferred, because by this means only is it
+practicable to accomplish a tolerably long journey, especially on
+account of the additional weight of warm clothing which the
+present advanced state of the season rendered indispensable.
+Lieutenant Reid was furnished with six days' provisions, and
+directed to land where most practicable on the northern shore,
+and thence to pursue his journey to the westward as far as his
+resources would admit, gaining all possible information that
+might be useful or interesting.</p>
+<p>On the 14th, while an easterly breeze continued, the water
+increased very much in breadth to the westward of the fixed floe
+to which we were attached; several lanes opening out, and leaving
+in some places a channel not less than three miles in width. At
+two P.M., the wind suddenly shifting to the westward, closed up
+every open space in a few hours, leaving not a drop of water in
+sight from the masthead in that direction. To this, however, we
+had no objection; for being now certain that the ice was at
+liberty to move in the western part of the strait, we felt
+confident that, if once our present narrow barrier were also
+detached, the ordinary changes of wind and tide would inevitably
+afford us opportunities of making progress. The westerly wind was
+accompanied by fine snow, which continued during the night,
+rendering the weather extremely thick, and our situation,
+consequently, very precarious, should the ice give way during the
+hours of darkness.</p>
+<p>At four P.M. on the 15th we discovered our travellers upon the
+ice. A fresh party being despatched to meet and to relieve them
+of their knapsacks, Lieutenant Reid arrived safely on board at
+seven P.M., having, by a quick and most satisfactory journey,
+ascertained the immediate junction of the Strait of the Fury and
+Hecla with the Polar Sea.</p>
+<p>The weather continuing very thick, with small snow, and there
+being now every reason to suppose a final disruption of the fixed
+ice at hand, I determined to provide against the danger to which,
+at night, this long-wished-for event would expose the ships, by
+adopting a plan that had often before occurred to me as likely to
+prove beneficial in an unknown and critical navigation such as
+this. This was nothing more than the establishment of a temporary
+lighthouse on shore during the night, which, in case of our
+getting adrift, would, together with the soundings, afford us
+that security which the sluggish traversing of the compasses
+otherwise rendered extremely doubtful. For this purpose, two
+steady men, provided with a tent and blankets, were landed on the
+east point of Amherst Island at sunset, to keep up some bright
+lights during the eight hours of darkness, and to be sent for at
+daylight in the morning.</p>
+<p>On the 17th the wind freshened almost to a gale from the
+northwest, with thicker and more constant snow than before. The
+thermometer fell to 16-1/2&deg; at six A.M., rose no higher than
+20&deg; in the course of the day, and got down to 12&deg; at
+night, so that the young ice began now to form about us in great
+quantities.</p>
+<p>Appearances had now become so much against our making any
+farther progress this season, as to render it a matter of very
+serious consideration whether we ought to risk being shut up
+during the winter in the middle of the strait, where, from
+whatever cause it might proceed, the last year's ice was not yet
+wholly detached from the shores, and where a fresh formation had
+already commenced, which there was too much reason to believe
+would prove a permanent one. Our wintering in the strait involved
+the certainty of being frozen up for eleven months; a sickening
+prospect under any circumstances, but in the present instance,
+probably, fatal to our best hopes and expectations.</p>
+<p>The young ice had now formed so thick about the Fury, that it
+became rather doubtful whether we should get her out without an
+increase of wind to assist in extricating her, or a decrease of
+cold. At ten A.M., however, we began to attempt it, but by noon
+had not moved the ship more than half her own length. As soon as
+we had reached the outer point of the floe, in a bay of which we
+had been lying, we had no longer the means of applying a force
+from without, and, if alone, should therefore have been helpless,
+at least for a time. The Hecla, however, being fortunately
+unencumbered, in consequence of having lain in a less sheltered
+place, sent her boats with a hawser to the margin of the young
+ice; and ours being carried to meet it, by men walking upon
+planks, at considerable risk of going through, she at length
+succeeded in pulling us out; and, getting into clear water, or,
+rather, into less tough ice, at three P.M. we shaped a course to
+the eastward.</p>
+<p>In our return to Igloolik we encountered a severe gale, but we
+luckily discovered it at half past ten A.M., though such was the
+difficulty of distinguishing this from Neerlo-nakto, or either
+from the mainland, on account of the snow that covered them,
+that, had it not been for the Esquimaux huts, we should not
+easily have recognised the place. At noon on the 24th we arrived
+off the point where the tents had first been pitched, and were
+immediately greeted by a number of Esquimaux, who came running
+down to the beach, shouting and jumping with all their might.</p>
+<p>As soon as we had anchored I went on shore, accompanied by
+several of the officers, to pay the Esquimaux a visit, a crowd of
+them meeting us, as usual, on the beach, and greeting us with
+every demonstration of joy. They seemed disappointed that we had
+not reached Akkolee, for they always receive with eagerness any
+intelligence of their distant country people. Many of them, and
+Toolemak among the number, frequently repeated the expressions
+"<i>Owyak Na-o</i>!" (no summer), "<i>Took-too Na-o!</i>" (no
+reindeer), which we considered at the time as some confirmation
+of our own surmises respecting the badness of the past summer.
+When we told them we were come to winter among them, they
+expressed very great, and, doubtless, very sincere delight, and
+even a few <i>koyennas</i> (thanks) escaped them on the first
+communication of this piece of intelligence.</p>
+<p>We found these people already established in their winter
+residences, which consisted principally of the huts before
+described, but modified in various ways both as to form and
+materials. The roofs, which were wholly wanting in the summer,
+were now formed by skins stretched tight across from side to
+side. This, however, as we soon afterward found, was only a
+preparation for the final winter covering of snow; and, indeed,
+many of the huts were subsequently lined in the same way within,
+the skins being attached to the sides and roof by slender threads
+of whalebone, disposed in large and regular stitches. Before the
+passages already described, others were now added, from ten to
+fifteen feet in length, and from four to five feet high, neatly
+constructed of large flat slabs of ice, cemented together by snow
+and water. Some huts also were entirely built of this material,
+of a rude circular or octangular form, and roofed with skins like
+the others. The light and transparent effect within these
+singular habitations gave one the idea of being in a house of
+ground glass, and their newness made them look clean,
+comfortable, and wholesome. Not so the more substantial bone
+huts, which, from their extreme closeness and accumulated filth,
+emitted an almost insupportable stench, to which an abundant
+supply of raw and half-putrid walrus' flesh in no small degree
+contributed. The passages to these are so low as to make it
+necessary to crawl on the hands and knees to enter them; and the
+floors of the apartments were in some places so slippery, that we
+could with difficulty pass and repass, without the risk of
+continually falling among the filth with which they were covered.
+These were the dirtiest, because the most durable, of any
+Esquimaux habitations we had yet seen; and it may be supposed
+they did not much improve during the winter. Some bitches with
+young were very carefully and conveniently lodged in small square
+kennels, made of four upright slabs of ice covered with a fifth,
+and having a small hole as a door in one of the sides. The canoes
+were also laid upon two slabs of this kind, like tall tombstones
+standing erect; and a quantity of spare slabs lying in different
+places, gave the ground an appearance somewhat resembling that of
+a statuary's yard. Large stores of walrus' and seals' flesh,
+principally the former, were deposited under heaps of stones all
+about the beach, and, as we afterward found, in various other
+parts of the island, which showed that they had made some
+provision for the winter, though, with their enormous consumption
+of food, it proved a very inadequate one.</p>
+<p>Leaving the Fury at seven A.M. on the 26th, and being favoured
+by a fresh easterly breeze, we soon cleared the southwest point
+of Igloolik; and, having passed the little island of
+<i>Oogli=aghioo</i>, immediately perceived to the W.N.W. of us a
+group of islands, so exactly answering the description of Coxe's
+Group, both in character and situation, as to leave no doubt of
+our being exactly in Captain Lyon's former track. Being still
+favoured by the wind and by the total absence of fixed ice, we
+reached the islands at eleven A.M., and, after sailing a mile or
+two among them, came at once in sight of two bluffs, forming the
+passage pointed out by Toolemak, and then supposed to be called
+<i>Khemig</i>. The land to the north, called by the Esquimaux
+<i>Khiadlaghioo</i>, was now found to be, as we had before
+conjectured, the southern shore of Richards's Bay. The land on
+our left or to the southward proved an island, five miles and a
+quarter in length, of the same bold and rugged character as the
+rest of this numerous group, and by far the largest of them all.
+To prevent the necessity of reverting to this subject, I may at
+once add, that two or three months after this, on laying before
+Ewerat our own chart of the whole coast, in order to obtain the
+Esquimaux names, we discovered that the island just mentioned was
+called <i>Khemig</i>, by which name Ormond Island was <i>also</i>
+distinguished; the word expressing, in the Esquimaux language,
+anything stopping up the mouth of a place or narrowing its
+entrance, and applied also more familiarly to the cork of a
+bottle, or a plug of any kind. And thus were reconciled all the
+apparent inconsistencies respecting this hitherto mysterious and
+incomprehensible word, which had occasioned us so much
+perplexity.</p>
+<p>At daylight on the 27th we crossed to a small island at the
+margin of the ice; and leaving the boat there in charge of the
+coxswain and two of the crew, Mr. Ross and myself, accompanied by
+the other two, set out across the ice at seven A.M. to gain the
+main land, with the intention of determining the extent of the
+inlet by walking up its southern bank. After an hour's good
+travelling, we landed at eight A.M., and had scarcely done so
+when we found ourselves at the very entrance, being exactly
+opposite the place from which Mr. Richards and myself had
+obtained the first view of the inlet. The patch of ice on which
+we had been walking, and which was about three miles long, proved
+the only remains of last year's formation; so forcibly had nature
+struggled to get rid of this before the commencement of a fresh
+winter.</p>
+<p>Walking quickly to the westward along this shore, which
+afforded excellent travelling, we soon perceived that our
+business was at an end, the inlet terminating a very short
+distance beyond where I had first traced it, the apparent turn to
+the northward being only that of a shallow bay.</p>
+<p>Having thus completed our object, we set out on our return,
+and reached the boat at three P.M., after a walk of twenty miles.
+The weather fortunately remaining extremely mild, no young ice
+was formed to obstruct our way, and we arrived on board at noon
+the following day, after an examination peculiarly satisfactory,
+inasmuch as it proved the non-existence of <i>any</i> water
+communication with the Polar Sea, however small and unfit for the
+navigation of ships, to the southward of the Strait of the Fury
+and Hecla.</p>
+<p>I found from Captain Lyon on my return, that, in consequence
+of some ice coming in near the ships, he had shifted them round
+the point into the berths-where it was my intention to place them
+during the winter; where they now lay in from eleven to fourteen
+fathoms, at the distance of three cables' length from the
+shore.</p>
+<p>It was not till the afternoon of the 30th that the whole was
+completed, and the Fury placed in the best berth for the winter
+that circumstances would permit. An early release in the spring
+could here be scarcely expected, nor, indeed, did the nature of
+the ice about us, independently of situation, allow us to hope
+for it; but both these unfavourable circumstances had been
+brought about by a contingency which no human power or judgment
+could have obviated, and at which, therefore, it would have been
+unreasonable, as well as useless, to repine. We lay here in
+rather less than five fathoms, on a muddy bottom, at the distance
+of one cable's length from the eastern shore of the bay.</p>
+<p>The whole length of the canal we had sawed through was four
+thousand three hundred and forty-three feet; the thickness of the
+ice, in the level and regular parts, being from twelve to
+fourteen inches, but in many places, where a separation had
+occurred, amounting to several feet. I cannot sufficiently do
+justice to the cheerful alacrity with which the men continued
+this laborious work during thirteen days, the thermometer being
+frequently at <i>zero</i>, and once as low as-9&deg; in that
+interval. It was satisfactory, moreover, to find, that in the
+performance of this, not a single addition had been made to the
+sick-list of either ship, except by the accident of one man's
+falling into the canal, who returned to his duty a day or two
+afterward.</p>
+<p>While our people were thus employed, the Esquimaux had
+continued to make daily visits to the ships, driving down on
+sledges with their wives and children, and thronging on board in
+great numbers, as well to gratify their curiosity, of which they
+do not, in general, possess much, as to pick up whatever trifles
+we could afford to bestow upon them. These people were at all
+times ready to assist in any work that was going on, pulling on
+the ropes, heaving at the windlass, and sawing the ice, sometimes
+for an hour together. They always accompanied their exertions by
+imitating the sailors in their peculiar manner of "singing out"
+when hauling, thus, at least, affording the latter constant
+amusement, if not any very material assistance, during their
+labour. Among the numerous young people at Igloolik, there were
+some whose activity on this and other occasions particularly
+struck us. Of these I shall, at present, only mention two:
+<i>N=o=ogloo</i>, an adopted son of Toolemak, and
+<i>K=ong~ol~ek</i>, a brother of "John Bull." These two young
+men, who were from eighteen to twenty years of age, and stood
+five feet seven inches in height, displayed peculiar <i>tact</i>
+in acquiring our method of heaving at the windlass, an exercise
+at which <i>K=ong~ol~ek</i> became expert after an hour or two's
+practice. The countenances of both were handsome and
+prepossessing, and their limbs well-formed and muscular;
+qualities which, combined with their activity and manliness,
+rendered them (to speak like a naturalist), perhaps, as fine
+specimens of the human race as almost any country can
+produce.</p>
+<p>Some of our Winter Island friends had now arrived also, being
+the party who left us there towards the end of the preceding May,
+and whom we had afterward overtaken on their journey to the
+northward. They were certainly all very glad to see us again,
+and, throwing off the Esquimaux for a time, shook us heartily by
+the hand, with every demonstration of sincere delight. Ewerat, in
+his quiet, sensible way, which was always respectable, gave us a
+circumstantial account of every event of his journey. On his
+arrival at <i>Owlitteweek</i>, near which island we overtook him,
+he had buried the greater part of his baggage under heaps of
+stones, the ice no longer being fit for dragging the sledge upon.
+Here also he was happily eased of a still greater burden, by the
+death of his idiot boy, who thus escaped the miseries to which a
+longer life must, among these people, have inevitably exposed
+him. As for that noisy little fellow, "John Bull"
+(<i>Kooillitiuk</i>), he employed almost the whole of his first
+visit in asking every one, by name, "How d'ye do, Mr. So and So?"
+a question which had obtained him great credit among our people
+at Winter Island. Being a very important little personage, he
+also took great pride in pointing out various contrivances on
+board the ships, and explaining to the other Esquimaux their
+different uses, to which the latter did not fail to listen with
+all the attention due to so knowing an oracle.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c004_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c004">CHAPTER XIII.</a></h2>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>Preparations for the Winter.&mdash;Various Meteorological
+Phenomena to the close of the year 1822.&mdash;Sickness among the
+Esquimaux.&mdash;Meteorological Phenomena to the end of
+March.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p><i>November</i>.&mdash;The measures now adopted for the
+security of the ships and their stores, for the maintenance of
+economy, cleanliness, and health, and for the prosecution of the
+various observations and experiments, being principally the same
+as those already detailed in the preceding winter's narrative, I
+shall be readily excused for passing them over in silence.</p>
+<p>The daily visits of the Esquimaux to the ships throughout the
+winter afforded, both to officers and men, a fund of constant
+variety and never-failing amusement, which no resources of our
+own could possibly have furnished. Our people were, however, too
+well aware of the advantage they derived from the schools not to
+be desirous of their re-establishment, which accordingly took
+place soon after our arrival at Igloolik; and they were glad to
+continue this as their evening occupation during the six
+succeeding months.</p>
+<p>The year closed with the temperature of-42&deg;, the mean of
+the month of December having been 27&deg; 8', which, taken in
+connexion with that of November, led us to expect a severe
+winter.</p>
+<p>About the middle of the month of December several of the
+Esquimaux had moved from the huts at Igloolik, some taking up
+their quarters on the ice at a considerable distance to the
+northwest, and the rest about a mile outside the summer station
+of the tents. At the close of the year from fifty to sixty
+individuals had thus decamped, their object being, like that of
+other savages on <i>terra firma</i>, to increase their means of
+subsistence by covering more ground; their movements were
+arranged so quietly that we seldom heard of their intentions till
+they were gone. At the new stations they lived entirely in huts
+of snow; and the northerly and easterly winds were considered by
+them most favourable for their fishing, as these served to bring
+in the loose ice, on which they principally kill the
+walruses.</p>
+<p>Towards the latter end of January [1823], the accounts from
+the huts, as well from the Esquimaux as from our own people,
+concurred in stating that the number of the sick, as well as the
+seriousness of their complaints, was rapidly increasing there. We
+had, indeed, scarcely heard of the illness of a woman named
+<i>Kei-m=o=o-seuk</i>, who, it seemed, had lately miscarried,
+when an account arrived of her death. She was one of the two
+wives of <i>Ooyarra</i>, one of Captain Lyon's fellow-travellers
+in the summer, who buried her in the snow, about two hundred
+yards from the huts, placing slabs of the same perishable
+substance over the body, and cementing them by pouring a little
+water in the interstices. Such an interment was not likely to be
+a very secure one; and, accordingly, a few days after, the hungry
+dogs removed the snow and devoured the body.</p>
+<p>Captain Lyon gave me the following account of the death and
+burial of another poor woman and her child:</p>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>"The mother, Poo-too-alook, was about thirty-five years of
+age, the child about three years&mdash;yet not weaned, and a
+female; there was also another daughter, Shega, about twelve or
+thirteen years of age, who, as well as her father, was a most
+attentive nurse. My hopes were but small, as far as concerned the
+mother; but the child was so patient that I hoped, from its
+docility, soon to accustom it to soups and nourishing food, as
+its only complaint was actual starvation. I screened off a
+portion of my cabin, and arranged some bedding for them, in the
+same manner as the Esquimaux do their own. Warm broth, dry
+bedding, and a comfortable cabin, did wonders before evening, and
+our medical men gave me great hopes. As an introduction to a
+system of cleanliness, and preparatory to washing the sick, who
+were in a most filthy state, I scrubbed Shega and her father from
+head to foot, and dressed them in new clothes. During the night I
+persuaded both mother and child, who were very restless, and
+constantly moaning, to take a few spoonfuls of soup. On the
+morning of the 24th the woman appeared considerably improved, and
+she both spoke and ate a little. As she was covered with so thick
+a coating of dirt that it could be taken off in scales, I
+obtained her assent to wash her face and hands a little before
+noon. The man and his daughter now came to my table to look at
+some things I had laid out to amuse them; and, after a few
+minutes, Shega lifted up the curtain to look at her mother, when
+she again let it fall, and tremblingly told us she was dead.</p>
+<p>"The husband sighed heavily, the daughter burst into tears,
+and the poor little infant made the moment more distressing by
+calling in a plaintive tone on its mother, by whose side it was
+lying. I determined on burying the woman on shore, and the
+husband was much pleased at my promising that the body should be
+drawn on a sledge by men instead of dogs; for, to our horror,
+Takkeelikkeeta had told me that dogs had eaten part of
+Keimooseuk, and that, when he left the huts with his wife, one
+was devouring the body as he passed it.</p>
+<p>"Takkeelikkeeta now prepared to dress the dead body, and, in
+the first place, stopped his nose with deer's hair and put on his
+gloves, seeming unwilling that his naked hand should come in
+contact with the corpse. I observed, in this occupation, his care
+that every article of dress should be as carefully placed as when
+his wife was living; and, having drawn the boots on the wrong
+legs, he pulled them off again and put them properly. This
+ceremony finished, the deceased was sewed up in a hammock, and,
+at the husband's urgent request, her face was left uncovered. An
+officer who was present at the time agreed with me in fancying
+that the man, from his words and actions, intimated a wish that
+the living child might be enclosed with its mother. We may have
+been mistaken, but there is an equal probability that we were
+right in our conjecture; for, according to Crantz and Egede, the
+Greenlanders were in the habit of burying their motherless
+infants, from a persuasion that they must otherwise starve to
+death, and also from being unable to bear the cries of the little
+ones while lingering for several days without sustenance; for no
+woman will give them any share of their milk, which they consider
+as the exclusive property of their own offspring. My dogs being
+carefully tied up at the man's request, a party of our people,
+accompanied by me, drew the body to the shore, where we made a
+grave, about a foot deep, being unable to get lower on account of
+the frozen earth. The body was placed on its back, at the
+husband's request, and he then stepped into the grave and cut all
+the stitches of the hammock, although without throwing it open,
+seeming to imply that the dead should be left unconfined. I laid
+a woman's knife by the side of the body, and we filled up the
+grave, over which we also piled a quantity of heavy stones, which
+no animal could remove. When all was done and we returned to the
+ship, the man lingered a few minutes behind us and repeated two
+or three sentences, as if addressing himself to his departed
+wife; he then silently followed. We found Shega quite composed,
+and attending her little sister, between whose eyebrows she had
+made a spot with soot, which I learned was because, being
+unweaned, it must certainly die. During the night my little
+charge called on its mother without intermission, yet the father
+slept as soundly until morning as if nothing had happened.</p>
+<p>"All who saw my patient on the morning of the 25th gave me
+great hopes; she could swallow easily, and was even strong enough
+to turn or sit upright without assistance, and in the forenoon
+slept very soundly. At noon, the sister of the deceased,
+Ootooguak, with her husband and son, came to visit me. She had
+first gone to the Fury, and was laughing on deck, and, at her own
+request, was taken below, not caring to hurry herself to come to
+the house of mourning. Even when she came to the Hecla she was in
+high spirits, laughing and capering on deck as if nothing had
+happened; but, on being shown to my cabin, where Shega, having
+heard of her arrival, was sitting crying in readiness, she began
+with her niece to howl most wofully. I, however, put a stop to
+this ceremony, for such it certainly was, under the plea of
+disturbing the child. The arrival of a pot of smoking
+walrus-flesh soon brought smiles on all faces but that of
+Takkeelikkeeta, who refused food and sat sighing deeply; the
+others ate, chatted, and laughed as if nothing but eating was
+worth thinking of. Dinner being over, I received thanks for
+burying the woman in such a way that 'neither wolves, dogs, nor
+foxes could dig her up and eat her,' for all were full of the
+story of Keimooseuk, and even begged some of our officers to go
+to Igloolik and shoot the offending dogs. A young woman named
+Ablik, sister to Ooyarra, was induced, after much entreaty and a
+very large present of beads, to offer her breast to the sick
+child, but the poor little creature pushed it angrily away.
+Another woman was asked to do the same; but, although her child
+was half weaned, she flatly refused.</p>
+<p>"The aunt of my little one seeming anxious to remain, and
+Shega being now alone, I invited her to stop the night. In the
+evening the child took meat and jelly, and sat up to help itself,
+but it soon after resumed its melancholy cry for its mother. At
+night my party had retired to sleep; yet I heard loud sighing
+occasionally, and, on lifting the curtain, I saw Takkeelikkeeta
+standing and looking mournfully at his child. I endeavoured to
+compose him, and he promised to go to bed; but, hearing him again
+sighing in a few minutes, I went and found the poor infant was
+dead, and that its father had been some time aware of it. He now
+told me it had seen its mother the last time it called on her,
+and that she had beckoned it to Khil-la (Heaven), on which it
+instantly died. He said it was 'good' that the child was gone;
+that no children outlived their mothers; and that the black spot,
+which Shega had frequently renewed, was quite sufficient to
+ensure the death of the infant.</p>
+<p>"My party made a hearty breakfast on the 26th, and I observed
+they did not scruple to lay the vessel containing the meat on the
+dead child, which I had wrapped in a blanket; and this unnatural
+table excited neither disgust nor any other feeling among them
+more than a block of wood could have done. We now tied up all the
+dogs, as Takkeelikkeeta had desired, and took the child about a
+quarter of a mile astern of the ships, to bury it in the snow;
+for the father assured me that her mother would cry in her grave
+if any weight of stones or earth pressed on her infant. She
+herself, he feared, had already felt pain from the monument of
+stones which we had laid upon her. The snow in which we dug the
+child's grave was not above a foot deep, yet we were not allowed
+to cut into the ice, or even use any slabs of it in constructing
+the little tomb. The body, wrapped in a blanket, and having the
+face uncovered, being placed, the father put the slings by which
+its deceased mother had carried it on the right side, and, in
+compliance with the Esquimaux custom of burying toys and presents
+with their dead, I threw in some beads. A few loose slabs of snow
+were now placed so as to cover, without touching, the body, and
+with this very slight sepulchre the father was contented,
+although a fox could have dug through it in half a minute. We,
+however, added more snow, and cemented all by pouring about
+twenty buckets of water, which were brought from the ship, on
+every part of the mound. I remarked that, before our task was
+completed, the man turned and walked quietly to the ships.</p>
+<p>"During the last two days I obtained some information with
+respect to mourning ceremonies, or, at all events, such as
+related to the loss of a mother of a family; three days were to
+be passed by the survivors without their walking on the ice,
+performing any kind of work, or even having anything made for
+them. Washing is out of the question with Esquimaux at most
+times, but now I was not allowed to perform the necessary
+ablutions of their hands and faces, however greasy or dirty they
+might be made by their food; the girl's hair was not to be put
+into pig-tails, and everything was neglected; Takkeelikkeeta was
+not to go sealing until the summer. With the exception of an
+occasional sigh from the man, there were no more signs of grief;
+our mourners ate, drank, and were merry, and no one would have
+supposed they ever had wife, mother, or sister. When the three
+days (and it is singular that such should be the time) were
+expired, the man was to visit the grave; and, having talked with
+his wife, all duties were to be considered as over. The 28th was
+our third day, but a heavy northerly gale and thick drift
+prevented our visiting the grave. The 29th, although not fine,
+was more moderate, and I accompanied him at an early hour.
+Arriving at the grave, he anxiously walked up to it and carefully
+sought for foot-tracks on the snow; but, finding none, repeated
+to himself, 'No wolves, no dogs, no foxes; thank ye, thank ye.'
+He now began a conversation, which he directed entirely to his
+wife. He called her twice by name, and twice told her how the
+wind was blowing, looking at the same time in the direction from
+whence the drift was coming. He next broke forth into a low
+monotonous chant, and, keeping his eyes fixed upon the grave,
+walked slowly round it in the direction of the sun four or five
+times, and at each circuit he stopped a few moments at the head.
+His song was, however, uninterrupted. At the expiration of about
+eight minutes he stopped, and, suddenly turning round to me,
+exclaimed, '<i>Tugw~a</i>' (that's enough), and began walking
+back to the ship. In the song he chanted I could frequently
+distinguish the word <i>Koyenna</i> (thank you), and it was
+occasionally coupled with the Kabloonas. Two other expressions,
+both the names of the spirits or familiars of the Annatko,
+Toolemak, were used a few times; but the whole of the other words
+were perfectly unintelligible to me.</p>
+<p>"I now sent Shega and her father home, well clothed and in
+good case. The week they had passed on board was sufficient time
+to gain them the esteem of every one, for they were the most
+quiet, inoffensive beings I ever met with; and, to their great
+credit, they never once begged. The man was remarkable for his
+extraordinary fondness for treacle, sugar, salt, acids, and
+spruce-beer, which the others of the tribe could not even smell
+without disgust; and he walked about to the different messes in
+hopes of being treated with these delicacies. Shega was a timid,
+well-behaved girl, and generally remained eating in my cabin, for
+I am confident of speaking far within bounds when I say she got
+through eight pounds of solids per diem. As far as gratitude
+could be shown by Esquimaux, which is saying 'koyenna' on
+receiving a present, my friends were sensible of the attentions I
+had shown them."</p>
+</div>
+<p><i>March</i> 5th.&mdash;The Esquimaux were about this time
+rather badly off for food, in consequence of the winds having of
+late been unfavourable for their fishery; but this had only
+occurred two or three times in the course of the winter, and
+never so much as to occasion any great distress. It is certain,
+indeed, that the quantity of meat which they procured between the
+1st of October and the 1st of April was sufficient to furnish
+about double the population of working people who were moderate
+eaters, and had any idea of providing for a future day; but to
+individuals who can demolish four or five pounds at a sitting,
+and at least ten in the course of a day,<a name=
+'FNanchor_003_3'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_003_3'><sup>[003]</sup></a> and who never bestow a
+thought on to-morrow, at least with a view to provide for it by
+economy, there is scarcely any supply which could secure them
+from occasional scarcity. It is highly probable that the
+alternate feasting and fasting to which the gluttony and
+improvidence of these people so constantly subject them, may have
+occasioned many of the complaints that proved fatal during the
+winter; and on this account we hardly knew whether to rejoice or
+not at the general success of their fishery. Certain it is, that
+on a particular occasion of great plenty, one or two individuals
+were seen lying in the huts, so distended by the quantity of meat
+they had eaten that they were unable to move, and were suffering
+considerable pain, arising solely from this cause. Indeed, it is
+difficult to assign any other probable reason for the lamentable
+proportion of deaths that took place during our stay at Igloolik,
+while, during a season of nearly equal severity, and of much
+greater privation as to food, at Winter Island, not a single
+death occurred. Notwithstanding their general plenty, there were
+times in the course of this winter, as well as the last, when our
+bread-dust was of real service to them, and they were always
+particularly desirous of obtaining it for their younger children.
+They distinguished this kind of food by the name of
+<i>k=an~ibr~o~ot</i>, and biscuit or soft bread by that of
+<i>sh=eg~al~ak</i>, the literal meaning of which terms we never
+could discover, but supposed them to have some reference to their
+respective qualities.</p>
+<p>Our lengthened acquaintance with the Esquimaux and their
+language, which a second winter passed among them afforded, gave
+us an opportunity of occasionally explaining to them in some
+measure in what direction our country lay, and of giving them
+some idea of its distance, climate, population, and productions.
+It was with extreme difficulty that these people had imbibed any
+correct idea of the superiority of rank possessed by some
+individuals among us; and when at length they came into this
+idea, they naturally measured our respective importance by the
+riches they supposed each to possess. The ships they considered,
+as a matter of course, to belong to Captain Lyon and myself, and
+on this account distinguished them by the names of
+<i>Lyon-oomiak</i> and <i>Paree-oomiak</i>; but they believed
+that the boats and other parts of the furniture were the property
+of various other individuals among us. They were, therefore, not
+a little surprised to be seriously assured that neither the one
+nor the other belonged to any of us, but to a much richer and
+more powerful person, to whom we all paid respect and obedience,
+and at whose command we had come to visit and enrich the
+<i>Innuees</i>. Ewerat, on account of his steadiness and
+intelligence, as well as the interest with which he listened to
+anything relating to <i>Kabloonas</i>, was particularly fit to
+receive information of this nature; and a general chart of the
+Atlantic Ocean, and of the lands on each side, immediately
+conveyed to his mind an idea of the distance we had come, and the
+direction in which our home lay. This and similar information was
+received by Ewerat and his wife with the most eager astonishment
+and interest, not merely displayed in the "hei-ya!" which
+constitutes the usual extent of Esquimaux admiration, but
+evidently enlarging their notion respecting the other parts of
+the world, and creating in them ideas which could never before
+have entered their minds. By way of trying their inclinations, I
+asked them if they would consent to leave their own country, and,
+taking with them their children, go to live in ours, where they
+would see no more <i>Innuees</i>, and never eat any more seal or
+walrus. To all this they willingly agreed, and with an
+earnestness that left no doubt of their sincerity; Togolat
+adding, in an emphatic manner, "<i>Shagloo ooagoot nao</i>" (we
+do not tell a falsehood), an expression of peculiar force among
+them. The eagerness with which they assented to this proposal
+made me almost repent my curiosity, and I was glad to get out of
+the scrape by saying, that the great personage of whom I had
+spoken would not be pleased at my taking them home without having
+first obtained his permission. Information of the kind alluded to
+was subsequently given to many of the other Esquimaux, some of
+whom could at length pronounce the name of "King George" so as to
+be tolerably intelligible.</p>
+<p>The weather was now so pleasant, and the temperature in the
+sun so comfortable to the feelings when a shelter could be found
+from the wind, that we set up various games for the people, such
+as cricket, football, and quoits, which some of them played for
+many hours during the day.</p>
+<p>At the close of the month of March, we were glad to find that
+its mean temperature, being-19.75&deg;, when taken in conjunction
+with those of January and February, appeared to constitute a mild
+winter for this latitude. There were, besides, some other
+circumstances, which served to distinguish this winter from any
+preceding one we had passed in the ice. One of the most
+remarkable of these was the frequent occurrence of hard,
+well-defined clouds, a feature we had hitherto considered as
+almost unknown in the winter sky of the Polar Regions. It is not
+improbable that these may have, in part, owed their origin to a
+large extent of sea keeping open to the southeastward throughout
+the winter, though they not only occurred with the wind from that
+quarter, but also with the colder weather, usually accompanying
+northwesterly breezes. About the time of the sun's reappearance,
+and for a week or two after it, these clouds were not more a
+subject of admiration to us on account of their novelty, than
+from the glowing richness of the tints with which they were
+adorned. It is, indeed, scarcely possible for nature, in any
+climate, to produce a sky exhibiting greater splendour and
+richness of colouring than we at times experienced in the course
+of this spring. The edges of the clouds near the sun often
+presented a fiery or burning appearance, while the opposite side
+of the heavens was distinguished by a deep purple about the
+horizon, gradually softening upward into a warm yet delicate
+rose-colour of inconceivable beauty. These phenomena have always
+impressed us the most forcibly about the time of the sun's
+permanent setting and that of his reappearance, especially the
+latter, and have invariably furnished a particular subject of
+conversation to us at those periods; but I do not know whether
+this is to be attributed so much to the colouring of the sky
+exactly at the times alluded to, as to our habit of setting on
+every enjoyment a value proportioned to its scarceness and
+novelty.</p>
+<p>Another peculiarity observed in this winter was the rare
+occurrence of the Aurora Borealis, and the extraordinary poorness
+of its display whenever it did make its appearance. It was almost
+invariably seen to the southward, between an E.S.E. and a W.S.W.
+bearing, generally low, the stationary patches of it having a
+tendency to form an irregular arch, and not unfrequently with
+coruscations shooting towards the zenith. When more diffused it
+still kept, in general, on the southern side of the zenith; but
+never exhibited any of those rapid and complicated movements
+observed in the course of the preceding winter, nor, indeed, any
+feature that renders it necessary to attempt a particular
+description. The electrometer was frequently tried, by Mr.
+Fisher, at times when the state of the atmosphere appeared the
+most favourable, but always without any sensible effect being
+produced on the gold leaf.</p>
+<p>The difference in the temperature of the day and night began
+to be sensible as early as the first week in March, and the daily
+range of the thermometer increased considerably from that time.
+The increase in the average temperature of the atmosphere,
+however, is extremely slow in these regions, long after the sun
+has attained a considerable meridian altitude; but this is in
+some degree compensated by the inconceivable rapidity with which
+the days seem to lengthen when once the sun has reappeared. There
+is, indeed, no change which continues to excite so much surprise
+as that from almost constant darkness to constant day; and this
+is, of course, the more sudden and striking, in proportion to the
+height of the latitude. Even in this comparatively low parallel,
+the change seemed sufficiently remarkable; for, soon after the
+middle of March, only ten weeks after the sun's reappearance
+above the horizon, a bright twilight appeared at midnight in the
+northern heavens.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c005_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c005">CHAPTER XIV.</a></h2>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>Various Journeys to the Esquimaux Stations.&mdash;Preparations
+for the Hecla's Return to England.&mdash;Remarkable Halos,
+&amp;c.&mdash;Shooting Parties stationed at
+Arlagnuk.&mdash;Journeys to Quilliam Creek.&mdash;Arrival of
+Esquimaux from the Northward.&mdash;Account of a Journey to the
+Westward for the purpose of reaching the Polar Sea.&mdash;The
+Esquimaux report two Fishing-ships having been Wrecked.&mdash;A
+Journey performed to Cockburn Island.&mdash;Discovery of Murray
+Maxwell Inlet.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p>About the first and second weeks in April, the Esquimaux were
+in the habit of coming up the inlet, to the southward of the
+ships, to kill the <i>neitiek,</i> or small seal, which brings
+forth its young at this season, and probably retires into
+sheltered places for that purpose. Besides the old seals, which
+were taken in the manner before explained, the Esquimaux also
+caught a great number of young ones, by fastening a hook to the
+end of a staff, and hooking them up from the sea-hole after the
+mother had been killed. Our large fishhooks were useful to them
+for this purpose, and the beautiful silvery skins of these young
+animals were occasionally brought to the ships as articles of
+barter: those of the foetus of the <i>neitiek</i> are more yellow
+than the others, and, indeed, both in colour and texture, very
+much resemble raw silk.</p>
+<p>The first ducks noticed by the Esquimaux were mentioned to us
+on the 16th, and a few days afterward immense flocks appeared,
+all of the king-duck species, about the open water near the
+margin of the ice; but our distance from this was so great, that
+we never saw any of them, and the weather was yet too cold to
+station a shooting-party in that neighbourhood. Dovekies were now
+also numerous, and a gull or two, of the silvery species, had
+been seen.</p>
+<p>On the 20th, after divine service, I took the opportunity of
+Captain Lyon and his people being on board the Fury, to
+communicate to the assembled officers and ships' companies my
+intentions respecting the future movements of the expedition; at
+the same time requesting Captain Lyon to furnish me with a list
+of any of the Hecla's men that might volunteer to remain out, as
+it would be necessary to fill up, or, perhaps, even to increase
+the complement of the Fury.</p>
+<p>Our preparations were therefore immediately commenced, a
+twelvemonths' provision and other stores being received by the
+Fury, and various necessary exchanges made in anchors, cables,
+and boats; and, in the course of a single fortnight, the whole of
+these were transported from ship to ship without any exposure or
+labour to the men outside their respective ships, our invaluable
+dogs having performed it for us with astonishing ease and
+expedition. It was a curious sight to watch these useful animals
+walking off with a bower-anchor, a boat, or a topmast, without
+any difficulty; and it may give some idea of what they are able
+to perform, to state, that nine dogs of Captain Lyon's dragged
+sixteen hundred and eleven pounds a distance of seventeen hundred
+and fifty yards in nine minutes, and that they worked in a
+similar way between the ships for seven or eight hours a day. The
+road was, however, very good at this time, and the dogs the best
+that could be procured.</p>
+<p>The wind settling to the southward for a few days near the end
+of April, brought an increased, and, to us a comfortable degree
+of warmth; and it was considered an event of some interest, that
+the snow which fell on the 29th dissolved as it lay on our decks,
+being the first time that it had done so this season. We now also
+ventured to take off some of the hatches for an hour or two in
+the day, and to admit some fresh air, a luxury which we had not
+known for six months. The Esquimaux, about this time, began to
+separate more than before, according to their usual custom in the
+spring; some of them, and especially our Winter Island
+acquaintance, setting off to the little islands called Oolglit,
+and those in our neighbourhood removing to the northeast end of
+Igloolik, to a peninsula called <i>Keiyuk-tarruoke</i>, to which,
+the open water was somewhat nearer. These people now became so
+much incommoded by the melting of their snow-huts, that they were
+obliged to substitute skins as the roofs, retaining, however, the
+sides and part of the passages of the original habitations. These
+demi-tents were miserable enough while in this state, some of the
+snow continually falling in, and the floor being constantly wet
+by its thawing.</p>
+<p>Favourable as the first part of the month of May had appeared
+with respect to temperature, its close was by no means equally
+promising, and on the first of June, at two A.M., the thermometer
+stood at +8&deg;. This unusually low temperature, much exceeding
+in severity anything we had experienced at Melville Island at the
+same season, rendered it necessary to defer for a time a journey
+which it was proposed that Captain Lyon should undertake, across
+the land to the westward at the head of Quilliam Creek, and
+thence, by means of the ice, along the shores of the Polar Sea,
+in the direction towards Akkoolee. The object of this journey,
+like that of most of the others which had been performed in
+various directions, was to acquire all the information within our
+reach of those parts of the continental coast to which the ships
+were denied access; and it was hoped that, at the coming season,
+some judgment might be formed of the probable state of the ice
+along that shore in the summer, by which the future movements of
+the Fury might be influenced. Captain Lyon was to be accompanied
+by two men, and a complete supply of every kind for a month's
+travelling was to be drawn on a sledge by ten excellent dogs,
+which he had taken great pains to procure and train for such
+occasions. As I was desirous of ascertaining, beyond any doubt,
+the identity of the <i>Khemig</i>, to which I had sailed in the
+autumn, with that seen by Captain Lyon on his journey with the
+Esquimaux, I determined to accompany the travellers on my sledge
+as far as the head of Quilliam Creek, and by victualling them
+thus far on their journey, enable them to gain a day or two's
+resources in advance. Another object which I had in view was to
+endeavour to find a lake mentioned by Toolemak; who assured me
+that, if I could dig holes in the ice, which was five feet thick,
+plenty of large salmon might be caught with hooks, an experiment
+which seemed at least well worth the trying.</p>
+<p>On the 7th, the weather being more favourable than before,
+Captain Lyon and myself set out to the westward at half past
+eleven A.M., and the ice proving level, reached Khemig at half
+past five; when it was satisfactory to find that the route
+followed by Captain Lyon on his journey with Toolemak was
+precisely that which I had supposed, every feature of the land,
+of which the fog had before scarcely allowed him a glimpse, being
+now easily recognised, and every difficulty cleared up.
+Proceeding at eight A.M. on the 8th, we soon met with numerous
+tracks of deer upon the ice, which, together with the seals that
+lay in great numbers near their holes, expedited our journey very
+considerably, the dogs frequently setting off at full gallop on
+sniffing one of them. Landing at the head of Quilliam Creek at
+half past one, we took up an advantageous position for looking
+about us, in order to determine on the direction of Captain
+Lyon's route over land, which all the Esquimaux concurred in
+representing as a laborious one. We met with several reindeer
+immediately on our landing; and, while in pursuit of them,
+Captain Lyon discovered a lake two or three miles long and a
+quarter of a mile broad, a short distance from the tents, which
+we concluded to be that of which I was in search. As some of our
+party were suffering from snow-blindness, and, what is scarcely
+less painful, severe inflammation of the whole face, occasioned
+by the heat of the sun, we remained here for the rest of this day
+to make our final arrangements.</p>
+<p>At nine A.M. on: the 9th we struck the tents, and Captain Lyon
+set off to the southward, while we drove over to the lake, which
+is one mile N.N.W. of the head of the creek, and, after three or
+four hours' labour, completed a hole through the ice, which was
+very dark-coloured, brittle, and transparent, and, as Toolemak
+had said, about five feet thick. The water, which was eleven
+fathoms deep, flowed up within a couple of inches of the surface,
+over which lay a covering of snow eighteen inches in depth. In
+confident hope of now obtaining some fish, we proceeded exactly
+according to Toolemak's instructions; but, after four-and-twenty
+hours' trial at all depths, not even a single nibble rewarded our
+labour.</p>
+<p>Coasting the south shore, on which I wished to obtain
+observations and angles for the survey, we the next day entered a
+small bay, where we pitched our tent; our whole party being now
+so snow-blind with endeavouring to distinguish the land from the
+ice (so entirely were both covered with snow), that we could
+literally no longer muster one eye among three of us to direct
+the sledge. I found a handkerchief tied close, but not too
+tightly, round the eyes for a whole night, to be a more effectual
+remedy for this disagreeable complaint than any application of
+eyewater; and my companions being induced to try the same
+experiment, derived equal benefit from it. Reaching Arlagnuk
+towards evening of the 13th, we found that our parties had each
+thirty or forty ducks ready for the ships; and that the Esquimaux
+had lately altogether deserted this station, owing to the
+scarcity of walruses, and had removed to Ooglit, where these
+animals were said to be abundant at this season. Leaving our
+people on the morning of the 14th, I returned on board soon after
+noon, where I found that nothing worthy of particular notice had
+occurred during my absence.</p>
+<p>On the 20th three or four other Esquimaux, strangers to us,
+arrived at Igloolik from the northward, and we found from two
+young men who visited us on the following day, that they came
+from <i>Too-n=o=o-nek</i>, a place undoubtedly situated somewhere
+on the western coast of Baffin's Bay, or about some of the inlets
+communicating with it, as they had there seen several
+<i>Kabloona</i> ships employed in killing whales. It is not
+improbable, from the various accounts of the direction and
+distance of Toonoonek, communicated by the Esquimaux through the
+usual medium of their charts, that the part of the seacoast so
+named lies at no great distance from Pond's Bay, in lat.
+72-1/2&deg;, which has lately become a common rendezvous of our
+Davis's Strait fishermen. Of this fact we had, in the course of
+the winter, received intimation from these people from time to
+time, and had even some reason to believe that our visit to the
+Esquimaux of the River Clyde in 1820 was known to them; but what
+most excited our interest at this time was the sledge brought by
+the new comers, the runner being composed of large single pieces
+of wood, one of them painted black over a lead-coloured priming,
+and the cross-bars consisting of heading-pieces of oak-buts, one
+flat board with a hinge-mark upon it the upper end of a skid or
+small boat's davit, and others that had evidently and recently
+been procured from some ship. On one of the heading-pieces we
+distinguished the letters <i>Brea</i>&mdash;, showing that the
+cask had, according to the custom of the whalers, contained bread
+on the outward passage. The nature of all these materials led us
+to suppose that it must have been procured from some vessel
+wrecked or damaged on the coast; and this suspicion was on the
+following day confirmed by our obtaining information that, at a
+place called Akk=o=odneak, a single day's journey beyond
+Toonoonek, two ships like ours had been driven on shore by the
+ice, and that the people had gone away in boats equipped for the
+purpose, leaving one ship on her beam ends, and the other
+upright, in which situation the vessels were supposed still to
+remain.<a name='FNanchor_004_4'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_004_4'><sup>[004]</sup></a></p>
+<p>We observed on this occasion as on our first arrival at
+Igloolik, that the new Esquimaux were obliged to have recourse to
+the others to interpret to them our meaning, which circumstance,
+as it still appeared to me, was to be attributed, as before, to
+our speaking a kind of broken Esquimaux that habit had rendered
+familiar to our old acquaintance, rather than to any essential
+difference in the true languages of the two people.</p>
+<p>Toolemak having some time before promised to accompany me to
+the fishing-place, taking with him his wife, together with his
+sledge, dogs, and tent, made his appearance from Ooglit on the
+23d, bringing, however, only the old lady and abundance of meat.
+Having lent him a tent and two of our dogs, and hired others to
+complete his establishment, we set out together at five A.M. on
+the 24th, my own party consisting of Mr. Crozier and a seaman
+from each ship. Arriving at Khemig towards noon, we found among
+the islands that the ice was quite covered with water, owing,
+probably, to the radiation of heat from the rocks. The weather
+proved, indeed, intensely hot this day, the thermometer in the
+shade, at the ships, being as high as 51&deg;, and the land in
+this neighbourhood preventing the access of wind from any
+quarter. The travelling being good beyond this, we arrived within
+four or five miles of the head of Quilliam Creek at ten P.M.,
+where we pitched the tents for the night. In this day's journey
+ten dogs had drawn my sledge a distance of forty statute miles
+since the morning, the weight on the sledge being about twelve
+hundred pounds, and half of the road very indifferent. It is the
+custom of the Esquimaux, even when meat is most abundant, to feed
+these invaluable animals only once a day, and that in the
+evening, which they consider to agree with them better than more
+frequent meals; we always observed the same practice with ours,
+and found that they performed their journeys the better for
+it.</p>
+<p>On the morning of the 25th, while passing close to a point of
+land, Toolemak suddenly stopped his sledge, and he and his wife
+walked to the shore, whither I immediately followed them. The old
+woman, preceding her husband, went up to a circle of stones, of
+which there were two or three on the spot, and, kneeling down
+within it, cried most loudly and bitterly for the space of two or
+three minutes, while Toolemak also shed abundant tears, but
+without any loud lamentation. On inquiring presently after, I
+found that this was the spot on which their tent had been pitched
+in the summer, and that the bed-place on which the old woman
+knelt had been that of their adopted son <i>Noogloo</i>, whose
+premature death we had all so much regretted. The grief displayed
+on this occasion seemed to have much sincerity in it, and there
+was something extremely touching in this quiet but unaffected
+tribute of sorrow on the spot, which so forcibly reminded them of
+the object of their parental affection. I have much gratification
+in adding, in this place, another circumstance, which, though
+trifling in itself, deserves to be noticed as doing honour to
+these people's hearts. They had always shown particular
+attachment to a dog they had sold me, and which bore the same
+name as a young man, a son of their own, whom they had formerly
+lost. In the course of this journey, the old woman would
+constantly call the dog "Eerninga" (son), which the affectionate
+animal never failed to repay by jumping up and licking her face
+all over, whenever his trace would allow him; and at night, after
+Toolemak had fed his own dogs, he frequently brought to our tent
+an extra piece of meat, expressly for <i>Ann=owtalik</i>, to whom
+these poor people seemed to take a mournful pleasure in now
+transferring their affection.</p>
+<p>Landing close to the head of the inlet on the south shore, we
+proceeded with difficulty a couple of miles over land till we
+came to a river, the limits of which the warmth of the weather
+was just rendering discernible, and which, our guides informed us
+was to be our fishing place. It was interesting to observe that,
+in every case of doubt as to the situation of a place, the best
+route, or the most advisable method of overcoming any difficulty,
+Toolemak invariably referred to his wife; and a consultation of
+some minutes was held by these two before they would determine on
+what was to be done, or even return an answer to our questions
+respecting it. Pitching our tents upon the banks of the river, we
+went upon the ice, which was still quite solid except close to
+the shores, and soon made two or three holes for a hook and line,
+the thickness of the ice in the middle being from six to seven
+feet. The Esquimaux fishhook is generally composed of a piece of
+ivory, having a hook of pointed iron, without a barb, let into
+it. The ivory they consider useful in attracting the salmon, but
+they also bait the hook with a piece of blubber well cleared of
+its oil by chewing, and securely tied on with a thread of sinew,
+so as to cover nearly the whole of the hook. A small piece of
+bone, reindeer's horn, or wood, serves as a rod, and with this
+they keep the bait constantly in motion up and down, the bait
+being from one to three feet below the surface of the ice.
+Previous, however, to commencing the fishery, the old lady, who
+took the principal part in this employment, muttered some words,
+to me altogether incomprehensible, over the hole, to which
+Toolemak, in a formal manner, added something about fish and
+<i>Kabloonas</i>; and the whole of this preparatory ceremony
+seemed intended to propitiate the spirit to whose department the
+salmon particularly belonged. The lady (for it seems she is a
+female) did not, however, appear to lend a very favourable ear to
+our wants or Toolemak's rhetoric; for, after many hours' patient
+trial on this and the following day, only two fish were seen and
+one caught to repay our labour.</p>
+<p>On the 27th Toolemak and his wife went over to a small shallow
+lake, on the opposite side of the river, where they caught three
+or four fish of the salmon kind, but none more than one pound in
+weight. He then came back to the tent, and made a small spear
+according to their own fashion; but with this, to his great
+disappointment, he could not strike a single fish. A sort of
+<i>fish-gig</i>, which we made out of four large hooks lashed
+back to back at the end of a light staff, succeeded much better,
+the bait being played in the usual manner to attract the fish,
+which were then hooked up with great ease and certainty by this
+instrument. In this manner we soon caught a dozen of the same
+kind as before; and the rest of our party had in the mean time
+killed a deer.</p>
+<p>Toolemak began now to be extremely impatient to return home,
+his principal anxiety arising, I believe, from a childish desire
+to know what I should give him for his trouble; and when, in
+writing a note to Lieutenant Nias, I enumerated the articles I
+intended to present to him, he expressed more delight than I had
+ever before seen escape him. Among these was one of the
+rifle-guns supplied as presents, together with a sufficient
+quantity of ammunition to last him one summer, after which the
+gun would probably become useless itself for want of cleaning. It
+was astonishing to see the readiness with which these people
+learned to fire at a mark, and the tact they displayed in
+everything relating to this art. Boys from twelve to sixteen
+years of age would fire a fowling-piece, for the first time, with
+perfect steadiness; and the men, with very little practice, would
+very soon become superior marksmen.<a name=
+'FNanchor_005_5'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_005_5'><sup>[005]</sup></a> As, however, the advantage
+they could derive from the use of firearms must be of very short
+duration, and the danger to any careless individuals very
+considerable, we did not, on any other occasion, consider it
+prudent to furnish them in this manner.</p>
+<p>On the morning of the 28th Toolemak had left us for the ships,
+carrying with him our venison to be left there, and having first
+explained when and where the Esquimaux catch the fish with which
+he had supplied us the preceding summer; for it now appeared that
+they were not found in great abundance, or of that magnitude, in
+the river, but at the mouth of a very small stream about two
+miles lower down the creek on the same side. Their method is, to
+place in the bed of the stream, which is quite narrow, and seldom
+or never so deep as a man's middle, though running with great
+force, two or three separate piles of stones, which serve the
+double purpose of keeping off the force of the stream from
+themselves, and of narrowing the passage through which the fish
+have to pass in coming up from the sea to feed; thus giving the
+people an opportunity of striking them with their spears, and
+throwing them on the shore without much difficulty.</p>
+<p>On the afternoon of the 1st of July we shifted our tents
+overland, and down the creek as far as the salmon stream. In
+performing this short journey over bare ground, I was enabled to
+form some conception of the difficulties likely to be encountered
+by Captain Lyon and his companions; for, even with our light
+load, the dogs could scarcely move at times. One of the strongest
+of eleven fell down in a fit occasioned by over exertion; the
+poor animal lay on his side, foaming at the mouth for a minute or
+two, but soon recovered sufficiently to be able to walk; and,
+being taken out of the sledge, was quite strong again the next
+day. We had scarcely arrived at the stream, when Toolemak's
+account was very satisfactorily confirmed by our finding on the
+ice near its mouth part of two fine salmon, above two feet in
+length, that had been thrown up by the force of the torrent, and
+a similar one was seen in the water. Our provisions being now
+out, we prepared for returning to the ships the following day;
+and I determined in a short time to send out Mr. Crozier with a
+larger party, well equipped with everything necessary for
+procuring us both fish and deer. We therefore left our tent,
+spare ammunition, and various other articles that would be
+required here, buried under a heap of stones near the stream, and
+on the morning of the 2d set out for the ships. The change which
+one week had made upon the ice it is quite impossible to
+conceive, the whole surface being now checkered with large and
+deep pools of water, where not a symptom of thawing had before
+appeared. This continued the whole way to the ships, which we
+reached at eight P.M., finding Captain Lyon and his party
+returned, after a laborious but unsuccessful endeavour to
+penetrate overland to the westward. On my arrival at the ships I
+found several new Esquimaux on board, who, to the number of
+twenty, had lately arrived from <i>Toon=o=onee-r=o=ochiuk</i>, a
+place situated to the westward and northward of Igloolik, and
+somewhere upon the opposite coast of Cockburn Island. This party
+confirmed the former account respecting the two ships that had
+been forced on shore; and, indeed, as an earnest of its truth,
+one man named <i>Adloo</i>, who was said to have actually seen
+them in this state, was a day or two afterward met by our people
+at Arlagnuk, while travelling to the southward, and having on his
+sledge a great deal of wood of the same kind as that before
+described.</p>
+<p>This information having excited considerable interest,
+Lieutenant Hoppner, who had taken great pains to ascertain the
+facts correctly, volunteered his services to accompany some of
+the Esquimaux, who were said to be going northward very shortly,
+and to obtain every information on this and other subjects which
+might be within the scope of such a journey. On the night of the
+4th, having heard that a party of the Esquimaux intended setting
+out the following morning, Lieutenant Hoppner and his people went
+out to their tents to be in readiness to accompany them. We were
+surprised to find the next day, that not only Lieutenant
+Hoppner's intended guide, but the whole of the rest of these
+people, had altogether left the island, and, as it afterward
+proved, permanently for the summer. We were now, therefore, for
+the first time since our arrival here, entirely deserted by the
+natives, only two or three of whom again visited the ships during
+the remainder of our stay. It appears probable, indeed, that
+these wandering people are in the habit of residing at their
+various stations only at particular intervals of time, perhaps
+with the intention of not scaring the walruses and seals too much
+by a very long residence at one time upon the same spot. What
+made this appear still more likely was the present state of their
+winter habitations at Igloolik, which, though offensive enough at
+about the same time the preceding year, were then wholesome and
+comfortable in comparison. Besides quantities of putrid walrus
+flesh, blubber, and oil, carcasses of dogs, and even of human
+beings recently deceased, were now to be seen exposed in their
+neighbourhood. What remained of the corpse of Keim=o=oseuk was of
+course wholly uncovered; a second, of a child, on which the
+wolves had feasted, was also lying about; and a third, of a
+newly-born infant, was discovered in the middle of a small lake
+by Mr. Richards, who caused them all to be buried under
+ground.</p>
+<p>Our stock of meat for the dogs being nearly expended, and no
+seahorses having yet been seen near the shore, I sent Mr. Ross
+with a sledge to Tern Island on the 13th, in expectation of being
+supplied by the Esquimaux. Mr. Ross returned on the 14th without
+success, the whole of the natives having left the island after
+plundering the birds' nests, as they had done the preceding
+year.</p>
+<p>Finding that our valuable dogs must be now wholly dependant on
+our own exertions in providing meat, a boat from each ship was
+carried down to the neighbourhood of the open water, and shortly
+afterward two others, to endeavour to kill walruses for them.
+This was the more desirable from the probability of the Fury's
+passing her next winter where no natives were resident, and the
+consequent necessity of laying in our stock for that long and
+dreary season during the present summer. Our people, therefore,
+pitched their tents near the old Esquimaux habitations; and thus
+were four boats constantly employed, whenever the weather would
+permit, for the three succeeding weeks.</p>
+<p>On the 16th Lieutenant Hoppner and his party returned to the
+ships, having only been enabled to travel to the south shore of
+Cockburn Island, on account of their guides not yet proceeding
+any farther. Two of the Esquimaux accompanied our travellers back
+to Igloolik, and, being loaded with various useful presents from
+the ships, returned home the following day.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c006_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c006">CHAPTER XV.</a></h2>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>Extraordinary Disruption of Ice in Quilliam Creek.&mdash;Some
+Appearance of Scurvy among the Seamen and
+Marines.&mdash;Discovery of Gifford River.&mdash;Commence cutting
+the Ice outside the Ships to release them from their
+Winter-quarters.&mdash;Considerations respecting the Return of
+the Expedition to England.&mdash;Unfavourable State of the Ice at
+the Eastern Entrance of the Strait.&mdash;Proceed to the
+Southward.&mdash;Ships beset and drifted up Lyon
+Inlet.&mdash;Decease of Mr. George Fife.&mdash;Final Release from
+the Ice, and Arrival in England.&mdash;Remarks upon the
+practicability of a Northwest Passage.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p>Among the various changes which the warmth of the returning
+summer was now producing around us, none was more remarkable than
+that noticed by Captain Lyon in an excursion to Quilliam Creek,
+and which, in a note received from him by the return of the
+sledges on the 17th, he thus describes: "Between the two points
+forming the entrance of the creek, we saw a high wall of ice
+extending immediately across from land to land, and on arriving
+at it, found that, by some extraordinary convulsion, the floe had
+burst upward, and that immense masses of ice had been thrown in
+every direction. Several blocks, eight or nine feet in thickness,
+and many yards in diameter, were lying on the level solid floe;
+yet we were for some time at a loss to discover whence they had
+been ejected, till at length we found a hole or pool, which
+appeared so small as to be hardly capable of containing the
+immense fragments near it; yet from this place alone must they
+have been thrown."</p>
+<p>Captain Lyon subsequently added, that "the water, which was
+found to be quite fresh, was running rapidly to seaward in this
+opening; and it seemed probable that the vast accumulation from
+the streams at the head of the creek, although at about ten miles
+distance, had burst a passage, and thus ejected the ice. The
+force employed for this purpose may be conceived, when I mention
+that, of several masses of ice, one in particular was above eight
+feet thick, full forty yards in circumference, and lay more than
+five hundred yards from the pool. No traces could be found of the
+manner in which these bodies had been transported, as not a
+single small fragment was seen lying about, to warrant the
+supposition that they had fallen with a shock. Neither were there
+any marks observable on the smooth uncracked floe to cause a
+suspicion that they had slidden over it, the general appearance
+of the floe at this place being the same as at all other parts of
+the inlet, and bearing no marks of having had any rush of water
+over it."</p>
+<p>The weather was now, at times, extremely sultry, bringing out
+swarms of moschetoes, that soon became very troublesome, even on
+board the ships. A thermometer suspended in the middle of the
+observatory, and exposed to the sun's rays, was observed by Mr.
+Fisher to stand at 92&deg; at five P.M. on the 18th.</p>
+<p>On the 19th Captain Lyon returned from Quilliam Creek,
+bringing with him the whole of our party stationed there, the ice
+being now so broken up in that neighbourhood as to render the
+fishing dangerous without proper boats. On this journey, which it
+took two days to perform, eleven dogs drew a weight of two
+thousand and fifty pounds, of which six hundred and forty were
+salmon, and ninety-five venison, procured by our people. The fish
+had all been caught in the trawl; and treble the quantity might
+easily have been taken with a seine, had we known how wide the
+mouth of the stream was to become. They varied in length from
+twenty to twenty six inches, and one of the largest, when
+cleaned, weighed eight pounds and a half; but their average
+weight in this state did not exceed two pounds and a quarter. The
+distance of the fishing-place from the ships, the dangerous state
+of the ice, and the soreness of the dogs' feet from travelling on
+the rough, honey-combed ice, prevented our taking any farther
+advantage of this very acceptable change of diet.</p>
+<p>Nothing worthy of notice occurred till the 29th, when a patch
+of ice, a mile broad, separated from the outer margin of our
+barrier and drifted away. The canal formed by laying sand on the
+ice was now quite through in most places, showing that the plan
+would, in this latitude at least, always ensure a ship's escape
+at an earlier season than by the regular course of nature,
+provided it could be carried the whole way down to the open
+water.</p>
+<p>I am now under the disagreeable necessity of entering on a
+subject which I had at one time ventured to hope need scarcely
+occupy any part of this narrative: I mean that of the scurvy,
+some slight but unequivocal symptoms of which disease were this
+day reported to me, by Mr. Edwards, to have appeared among four
+or five of the Fury's men, rendering it necessary, for the first
+time during the voyage, to have recourse to antiscorbutic
+treatment among the seamen and marines.</p>
+<p>It will, perhaps, be considered a curious and singular fact in
+the history of sea-scurvy, that during the whole of the preceding
+part of this voyage, none among us but officers were in the
+slightest degree affected by it, a circumstance directly contrary
+to former experience. To whatever causes this might be
+attributed, it could not, however, but be highly gratifying to be
+thus assured that the various means employed to preserve the
+health of the seamen and marines had proved even beyond
+expectation efficacious.</p>
+<p>That a ship's company began to evince symptoms of scurvy after
+twenty-seven months' entire dependance upon the resources
+contained within their ship (an experiment hitherto unknown,
+perhaps, in the annals of navigation, even for one fourth part of
+that period), could scarcely, indeed, be a subject of wonder,
+though it was at this particular time a matter of very sincere
+regret. From the health enjoyed by our people during two
+successive winters, unassisted as we had been by any supply of
+<i>fresh</i> antiscorbutic plants or other vegetables, I had
+began to indulge a hope that, with a continued attention to their
+comforts, cleanliness, and exercise, the same degree of vigour
+might, humanly speaking, be ensured at least as long as our
+present liberal resources should last. Present appearances,
+however, seemed to indicate differently; for, though our
+sick-list had scarcely a name upon it, and almost every
+individual was performing his accustomed duty, yet we had at
+length been impressed with the unpleasant conviction that a
+strong predisposition to disease existed among us, and that no
+very powerful exciting cause was wanting to render it more
+seriously apparent. Such a conviction at the present crisis was
+peculiarly disagreeable; for I could not but lament any
+circumstance tending to weaken the confidence in our strength and
+resources at a time when more than ordinary exertion was about to
+be required at our hands.</p>
+<p>The 1st of August had now arrived; and yet, incredible as it
+may appear, the ships were as securely confined in the ice as in
+the middle of winter, except that a pool of water, about twice
+their own length in diameter, was now opened around them. I
+determined, therefore, notwithstanding the apparent hopelessness
+of sawing our way through four or five miles of ice, to begin
+that laborious process; not, indeed, with the hope of cutting a
+canal sufficiently large to allow the passage of the ships to
+sea, but with a view to weaken it so much as in some measure to
+assist its disruption whenever any swell should set in upon its
+margin. On this and the following day, therefore, all the gear
+was carried down for that purpose, and a large tent pitched for
+the ships' companies to dine in, the distance being too great to
+allow them to return on board to their meals. On the 3d, however,
+we were saved a great deal of unnecessary labour, by the ice
+opening out at the crack before mentioned, so that our sawing
+might now be commenced within a mile of the Fury. After divine
+service, therefore, all hands were sent from both ships to bring
+back the tent and tools to the point of Oongalooyat, and the
+parties were recalled from the walrus-fishery, except a single
+boat's crew: these also returned on board a few days after, the
+whole number of seahorses killed being eight, and one large
+seal.</p>
+<p>On the 4th our sawing work was commenced, with the usual
+alacrity on the part of the officers and men, and three hundred
+and fifty yards of ice were got out before night, its thickness
+varying from one to four feet, but very irregular on account of
+the numerous pools and holes. An equal length was accomplished on
+the following day, though not without excessive fatigue and
+constant wet to the men, several of whom fell into the water by
+the ice breaking under them.</p>
+<p>On the 5th, the register-thermometer, which had been placed in
+the ground in the winter, was taken up, though, to our
+astonishment, the ground above and about it had become nearly as
+hard and compactly frozen as when we dug the hole to put it down.
+How this came about we were quite at a loss to determine; for the
+earth had been thrown in quite loosely, whereas its present
+consolidated state implied its having been thoroughly thawed and
+frozen again. It occupied two men ten days to extricate it,
+which, as they approached the thermometer, was done by a chisel
+and mallet, to avoid injury by jarring. This, however, was not
+sufficient to prevent mischief, the instrument being so
+identified with the frozen earth as to render it impossible to
+strike the ground near it without communicating the shock to the
+tubes, two of which were in consequence found to be broken. Thus
+ended our experiment for ascertaining the temperature of the
+earth during the winter; an experiment which it would seem, from
+this attempt, scarcely practicable to make in any satisfactory
+manner without some apparatus constructed expressly for the
+purpose.</p>
+<p>On the 6th the work was continued as before, and about four
+hundred yards of ice were sawn through and floated out, leaving
+now a broad canal, eleven hundred yards in length, leading from
+the open water towards that formed by the gravelled space.</p>
+<p>When the lateness of the season to which the ships had now
+been detained in the ice is considered, with reference to the
+probability of the Fury's effecting anything of importance during
+the short remainder of the present summer, it will not be
+wondered at that, coupling this consideration with that of the
+health of my officers and men, I began to entertain doubts
+whether it would still be prudent to adopt the intended measure
+of remaining out in the Fury as a single ship; whether, in short,
+under existing circumstances, the probable evil did not far
+outweigh the possible good. In order to assist my own judgment on
+this occasion upon one of the most material points, I requested
+the medical officers of the Fury to furnish me with their
+opinions "as to the probable effect that a third winter passed in
+these regions would produce on the health of the officers,
+seamen, and marines of that ship, taking into consideration every
+circumstance connected with our situation." Their answer was
+decidedly adverse to remaining; and it was fortified with such
+good reasons, connected with the health of the officers and
+crews, as scarcely to leave me at liberty to adopt any other
+course than that of returning to England with both vessels.</p>
+<p>Enclosing to Captain Lyon the replies of the medical
+gentlemen, I now also requested his opinion whether, under
+existing circumstances, he still considered it expedient to adopt
+the measure originally intended, with respect to the separation
+of the two ships. I had scarcely despatched a letter to this
+effect, when, at 10 A.M. on the 8th, the ice about the Fury began
+to move, the pools breaking up, and the gravelled canal soon
+entirely closing. A breeze springing up from the northward at
+this time, all sail was made upon the ship, and the ice gradually
+driving out as it detached itself from the shore, the Fury got
+into open water about one P.M. The Hecla, however, still remained
+in the middle of her winter's floe, which, though it moved a
+little with the rest at first, did not come out of the bay. In
+the course of the afternoon, finding her still stationary, I
+determined to occupy the time in stretching over to the
+northward, for the purpose of examining the state of the fixed
+ice at the eastern mouth of the strait; and, arriving at its
+margin by ten P.M., found it attached to both shores from the
+northeastern part of Neerlo-naktoo across to Murray Maxwell
+Inlet. It was the general opinion that this ice was in a more
+solid state than at the same time and place the preceding year,
+but its situation did not, I believe, differ half a mile from
+what it had then been. As the sun went down nearly in the
+direction of the strait, we obtained from the masthead a distinct
+and extensive view in that quarter, and it is impossible to
+conceive a more hopeless prospect than this now presented. One
+vast expanse of level solid ice occupied the whole extent of sea
+visible to the westward, and the eye wearied itself in vain to
+discover a single break upon its surface.</p>
+<p>Having finished this examination, which at once destroyed
+every hope I had never ceased to indulge of a passage through the
+strait, we returned towards Igloolik to rejoin the Hecla. It was
+not, however, till the morning of the 9th that we observed her to
+be moving out of the bay, when at length (for the first time,
+perhaps, that such an event ever occurred) she drove to sea in
+the middle of the floe. Thus at the mercy of the ice, she was
+carried over the shoals off the southeast point of Igloolik in
+six and a half fathoms, but was then fortunately drifted into
+deeper water. The swell on the outside was all that was wanting
+to break up her icy prison, which, separating at seven A.M.,
+finally released her from confinement.</p>
+<p>Having soon afterward received Captain Lyon's answer to my
+communication, it was necessary for me to come to a final
+determination on the subject therein alluded to. For various
+reasons, he advised that the Fury and Hecla should return to
+England together, as soon as such arrangements respecting the
+removal of stores and provisions, as I might judge proper to
+make, should be completed.</p>
+<p>Under such circumstances, to which may be added the
+uncertainty of the Hecla's liberation from the ice to the
+southward before the close of the season, I no longer considered
+it prudent or justifiable, upon the slender chance of eventual
+success now before us, to risk the safety of the officers and men
+committed to my charge, and whom it was now my first wish to
+reconduct in good health to their country and their friends.
+Having communicated my intentions to the officers and ships'
+companies, I directed several additions to be made to their
+ordinary allowance of provisions, particularly in the various
+antiscorbutics, which had hitherto been reserved for cases of
+emergency; and then beating up to our winter station, which I
+named Turton Bay, we anchored there in the afternoon in ten
+fathoms, and immediately commenced our preparations for
+lightening the Fury. Seven months' provisions, a bower anchor,
+and a few other stores, were received by the Hecla, some of her
+water, before filled as ballast, being started to make room for
+them; and such other arrangements made as circumstances would
+permit for improving the stowage of the Fury's hold. The bay was
+now entirely clear of ice in every part; and so changed was its
+appearance in the course of the last four-and-twenty hours, that
+it was scarcely possible to believe it the same place that we had
+been accustomed daily to look upon for the ten preceding
+months.</p>
+<p>The conveyance and stowage of the stores had scarcely been
+completed, when some loose ice drifting into the bay with the
+tide on the night of the 10th, obliged us hastily to get under
+way and stand out. On the following morning I ran across to the
+main land in the Fury, for the purpose of erecting, in compliance
+with my instructions, a flagstaff fifty-six feet in height,
+having at its top a ball, made of iron hoops and canvass, ten
+feet in diameter, and a cylinder buried near its foot, containing
+a parchment with some account of our visit to this place. In the
+mean time, I requested Captain Lyon to stand over to the point of
+Igloolik, where our walruses had been landed, and to bring off
+these, as well as our boats and tents remaining there. The ice
+soon after coming in upon the point, it was not without risk of
+the Hecla's being dangerously beset that Captain Lyon succeeded
+in bringing off everything but one boat. This was, indeed, no
+great loss to us, though a great acquisition to the Esquimaux;
+for, being almost worn out, I had intended to break her up
+previously to leaving the ice. Besides this, we purposely left
+our sledges, and a quantity of wood in pieces of a convenient
+size for bows, spears, and paddles, distributing them about in
+several places, that one or two individuals might not make a
+prize of the whole.</p>
+<p>The Hecla rejoining us on the morning of the 12th, we stood
+out to the eastward, and finally took our departure from
+Igloolik. In the course of the night the favourable breeze failed
+us, and on the morning of the 14th was succeeded by a southerly
+wind, the ships being close to another island called Ooglit,
+about twelve leagues to the S.S.W. of the others. We were here
+immediately visited by our old acquaintance the Esquimaux,
+several of whom came off in their canoes in the course of the
+morning, as if determined to loose no opportunity of profiting by
+us. Among these was our worthy old friend Nannow, to whom
+everybody was glad to give something; and, indeed, they all
+received as many presents as their canoes could safely carry or
+tow on shore. Their tents, nine in number were pitched on the
+main land, a little to the northward of Ooglit, at a station they
+call <i>Ag-wis-se-=o-wik</i>, of which we had often heard them
+speak at Igloolik. They now also pointed out to us Amitioke, at
+the distance of four or five leagues to the southward and
+westward, which proved to be the same piece of low land that we
+had taken for it in first coming up this coast. The Esquimaux
+told us that a number of their younger men were inland in pursuit
+of deer, and that the rest had abundant supplies of walrus, which
+animals we saw in considerable numbers about this place.</p>
+<p>We were now for some days all but beset in this neighbourhood,
+calms or light southerly and easterly breezes constantly
+prevailing. During this time the main body of ice remained, in
+most parts, close to the shore, leaving us only a "hole" of water
+to work about in, and much nearer to the land than on this shoal
+and shelving coast was altogether safe for the ships.
+Notwithstanding this, however, we had soon occasion to observe
+that they not only kept their ground, but even drew to the
+southward, owing, no doubt, to the current before found to set in
+that direction along the coast.</p>
+<p>The ice remained close the whole of the 26th; but we
+continued, as usual, to drift generally to the southward, and the
+next morning, being off Owlitteeweek, were enabled to cast off
+and make sail, the ice being rather more open than before. Being
+favoured by a commanding northerly breeze, we ran a considerable
+distance to the southward, having, however, only just room to
+sail between the points of the closely packed ice and a flat,
+dangerous shore. Without escaping for a moment, from our confined
+situation, and almost without perceiving any motion of the masses
+of ice among themselves, we had, at noon on the 30th, drifted
+down within a mile of a small island lying near the northeast
+point of Winter Island. On the 31st the tide took us through
+between these, the breadth of the passage being three quarters of
+a mile, in no less than sixteen fathoms water. We then passed
+within a dangerous reef of rocks, lying a full mile from the
+shore, and having numerous heavy masses of grounded ice upon it.
+After clearing this in a good depth of water, we were, by the
+evening, carried along shore within a mile of Cape Fisher.</p>
+<p>Thus had we, in a most singular manner, once more arrived at
+our old winter-quarters, with scarcely a single successful
+exertion on our parts towards effecting that object. The distance
+from Ooglit to our present station was about one hundred and
+sixty miles along the coast. Of this we had never <i>sailed</i>
+above forty, the rest of the distance having been accomplished,
+while we were immoveably beset, by mere drifting. The interval
+thus employed having been barely eight days, gives an average
+drift to the southward of above fifteen miles per day.</p>
+<p>In the afternoon of the 6th I was much pained at being
+informed by telegraph from the Hecla, that Mr. Fife, Greenland
+master of that ship, had just expired, an event which for some
+days past there had been but too much reason to apprehend; the
+scurvy having within the last three weeks continued to increase
+considerably upon him. It is proper for me, however, both in
+justice to the medical officers under whose skilful and humane
+care he was placed, and to the means with which we were in this
+way so liberally supplied, to state, that during a part of that
+time Mr. Fife had taken so great a dislike to the various
+antiscorbutics which were administered to him, that he could
+seldom be induced to use any of them. The disease, in
+consequence, reduced him to a state of extreme debility, which at
+length carried him off almost without pain. The Hecla being at
+the time closely beset, and in a situation of great danger among
+the shoals off Winter Island, Captain Lyon caused the remains of
+the deceased to be committed to the sea with all the solemnity
+which circumstances would permit.</p>
+<p>In the night of the 6th, the ships, which had before nearly
+closed each other, were again separated to the distance of
+several miles, though no motion was perceptible in the masses of
+ice about them. On the evening of the 11th, however, the wind at
+length began to freshen from the northwest, when the ice
+immediately commenced driving down the inlet at the rate of a
+mile an hour, carrying the Fury with it, and within half a mile
+of the rocks, the whole way down to Cape Martineau, but keeping
+her in deep water. In the mean time the Hecla had been swept into
+much more dangerous situations, passing along the east and south
+sides of Winter Island; and, after driving nearly up to
+Five-hawser Bay, being carried near some dangerous shoals about
+Cape Edwards, where Captain Lyon expected every other tide that
+she would take the ground.</p>
+<p>On the 15th, when the ships had closed each other within a
+mile, we could see the clear water from the masthead, and the
+Hecla could now have been easily extricated. Such, however, are
+the sudden changes that take place in this precarious navigation,
+that not long afterward the Fury was quite at liberty to sail out
+of the ice, while the Hecla was now, in her turn, so immoveably
+fast set, and even cemented between several very heavy masses,
+that no power that could be applied was sufficient to move her an
+inch. In this situation she remained all the 16th, without our
+being able to render her any assistance; and the frost being now
+rather severe at night, we began to consider it not improbable
+that we might yet be detained for another winter. We were
+perhaps, indeed, indebted for our escape to a strong westerly
+breeze, which blew for several hours on the 17th, when, the ice
+being sufficiently close to allow our men to walk to the
+assistance of the Hecla, we succeeded, after seven hours' hard
+labour, in forcing her into clear water, when all sail was made
+to the eastward, and our course shaped for the Trinity Islands in
+a perfectly open sea.</p>
+<p>We thus finally made our escape from the ice after having been
+almost immoveably beset in it for twenty-four days out of the
+last twenty-six, in the course of which time the ships had been
+taken over no less than one hundred and forty leagues of ground,
+generally very close to the shore, and always unable to do
+anything towards effecting their escape from danger.</p>
+<p>We made the Trinity Islands on the 18th, and ran down Hudson's
+Strait with a favourable breeze, reaching the Orkneys on the
+morning of Oct. 9th. It can scarcely, perhaps, be imagined by
+those who have not been similarly situated, with what eager
+interest one or two vessels were this day descried by us, being
+the first trace of civilized man that we had seen for the space
+of seven-and-twenty months. The breeze increasing to a fresh gale
+from the southward in the course of the night, with a heavy sea
+from the same quarter, rendering it impossible for us to make any
+progress in that direction, I determined to put into Lerwick in
+the Shetland Islands, to procure refreshments, and await a change
+in our favour. We accordingly bore up for that harbour early on
+the morning of the 10th, and at thirty minutes past ten A.M.
+anchored there, where we were immediately visited by a great
+number of the inhabitants, anxious to greet us on our return to
+our native country.</p>
+<p>I feel it utterly impossible adequately to express, the
+kindness and attention we received for the three or four days
+that we were detained in Bressay Sound by a continuance of
+unfavourable winds. On the first information of our arrival the
+bells of Lerwick were set ringing, the inhabitants flocked from
+every part of the country to express their joy at our unexpected
+return, and the town was at night illuminated, as if each
+individual had a brother or a son among us.</p>
+<p>On the 13th, a breeze springing up from the northward, we took
+leave of our kind and hospitable friends, deeply sensible of the
+cordial and affectionate reception we had experienced; and, being
+still favoured by the wind, were abreast of Buchaness the
+following evening. On the 16th, being off Whitby, I went on shore
+there, and, after receiving the cordial greetings of a great
+number of the worthy inhabitants of Whitby, who had assembled to
+meet us on landing, set off for London, and arrived at the
+Admiralty on the morning of the 18th.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name='b002'></a>
+<h2><a href='#b002_2'>THIRD VOYAGE<br>
+ FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A NORTHWEST PASSAGE.</a></h2>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c007_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c007">INTRODUCTION.</a></h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>Notwithstanding the want of success of the late expedition to
+the Polar Seas, it was resolved to make another attempt to effect
+a passage by sea, between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. The
+chief alterations in the equipment of the present expedition
+consisted in the placing of Sylvester's warming stove in the very
+bottom of the ship's hold, in substituting a small quantity of
+salt beef for a part of the pork, and in furnishing a much larger
+supply of newly corned beef. Preserved carrots and parsnips,
+salmon, cream, pickles of onions, beet-root, cabbage, and, to
+make the most of our stowage, <i>split</i> peas, instead of whole
+ones, were supplied. A small quantity of beef pemmican, made by
+pounding the meat with a certain portion of fat, as described by
+Captain Franklin, was also furnished.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c008_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c008">CHAPTER I.</a></h2>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>Passage to the Whale-fish Islands, and Removal of Stores from
+the Transport.&mdash;Enter the Ice in Baffin's
+Bay.&mdash;Difficulties of Penetrating to the
+Westward.&mdash;Quit the Ice in Baffin's Bay.&mdash;Remarks on
+the Obstructions encountered by the Ships, and on the Severity of
+the Season.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p>The equipment of the Hecla and Fury, and the loading of the
+William Harris transport, being completed, we began to move down
+the river from Deptford on the 8th of May, 1824, and on the 10th,
+by the assistance of the steamboat, the three ships had reached
+Northfleet, where they received their powder and their ordnance
+stores.</p>
+<p>Early on the morning of the 3d of July, the whole of our
+stores being removed, and Lieutenant Pritchard having received
+his orders, together with our despatches and letters for England,
+the William Harris weighed with a light wind from the northward,
+and was towed out to sea by our boats.</p>
+<p>Light northerly winds, together with the dull sailing of our
+now deeply-laden ships, prevented our making much progress for
+several days, and kept us in the neighbourhood of numerous
+icebergs, which it is dangerous to approach when there is any
+swell. We counted from the deck, at one time, no less than one
+hundred and three of these immense bodies, some of them from one
+to two hundred feet in height above the sea; and it was
+necessary, in one or two instances, to tow the ships clear of
+them with the boats.</p>
+<p>From this time, indeed, the obstructions from the quantity,
+magnitude, and closeness of the ice were such as to keep our
+people almost constantly employed in heaving, warping, or sawing
+through it; and yet with so little success, that, at the close of
+the month of July, we had only penetrated seventy miles to the
+westward, or the longitude of about 62&deg; 10'.</p>
+<p><i>Sept</i>. 9th.&mdash;I shall, doubtless, be readily excused
+for not having entered in this journal a detailed narrative of
+the obstacles we met with, and of the unwearied exertions of the
+officers and men to overcome them, during the tedious eight weeks
+employed in crossing this barrier.</p>
+<p>The constant besetment of the ships, and our daily
+observations for latitude and longitude, afforded a favourable
+opportunity for ascertaining precisely the set of any currents by
+which the whole body of ice might be actuated. By attending very
+carefully to all the circumstances, it was evident that a daily
+set to the southward obtained when the wind was northerly,
+differing in amount from two or three, to eight or ten miles per
+day, according to the strength of the breeze; but a northerly
+current was equally apparent, and fully to the same amount,
+whenever the wind blew from the southward. A circumstance more
+remarkable than these, however, forced itself strongly upon my
+notice at this time, which was, that a <i>westerly</i> set was
+very frequently apparent, even against a fresh breeze blowing
+from that quarter. I mention the circumstance in this place,
+because I may hereafter have to offer a remark or two on this
+fact, in connexion with some others of a similar nature noticed
+elsewhere.</p>
+<p>With respect to the dimensions of the ice through which we had
+now scrambled our way, principally by warping and towing, a
+distance of between three and four hundred miles, I remarked that
+it for the most part increased, as well in the thickness as the
+extent of the floes, as we advanced westward about the parallel
+of 71&deg;. During our subsequent progress to the north, we also
+met with some of enormous dimensions, several of the floes, to
+which we applied our hawsers and the power of the improved
+capstan, being at their margin more than twenty feet above the
+level of the sea; and over some of these we could not see from
+the masthead. Upon the whole, however, the magnitude of the ice
+became somewhat less towards the northwest, and within thirty
+miles of that margin the masses were comparatively small, and
+their thickness much diminished. Bergs were in sight during the
+whole passage, but they were more numerous towards the middle of
+the "pack," and rather the most so to the southward.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c009_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c009">CHAPTER II.</a></h2>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>Enter Sir James Lancaster's Sound.&mdash;Land at Cape
+Warrender.&mdash;Meet with young Ice.&mdash;Ships beset and
+carried near the Shore.&mdash;Driven back to Navy-board
+Inlet.&mdash;Run to the Westward, and enter Prince Regent's
+Inlet.&mdash;Arrival at Port Bowen.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p>All our past obstacles were in a moment forgotten when we once
+more saw an open sea before us; but it must be confessed that it
+was not so easy to forget that the middle of September was
+already near at hand, without having brought us even to the
+entrance of Sir James Lancaster's Sound. That not a moment might
+be lost, however, in pushing to the westward, a press of canvass
+was crowded, and, being happily favoured with an easterly breeze,
+on the morning of Sept. 10th we caught a glimpse of the high bold
+land on the north side of the magnificent inlet up which our
+course was once more to be directed. From the time of our leaving
+the main body of ice, we met with none of any kind, and the
+entrance to the Sound was, as usual, entirely free from it,
+except here and there a berg, floating about in that solitary
+grandeur, of which these enormous masses, when occurring in the
+midst of an extensive sea, are calculated to convey so sublime an
+idea.</p>
+<p>On the morning of the 12th we were once more favoured with a
+breeze from the eastward, but so light and unsteady that our
+progress was vexatiously slow; and on the 13th, when within seven
+leagues of Cape York, we had the mortification to perceive the
+sea ahead of us covered with young ice, the thermometer having,
+for two days past, ranged only from 18&deg; to 20&deg;.</p>
+<p>The next breeze sprung up from the westward, drawing also from
+the southward, at times, out of Prince Regent's Inlet, and for
+three days we were struggling with the young ice to little or no
+purpose, now and then gaining half a mile of ground to windward
+in a little "hole" of open water, then losing as much by the
+necessity of bearing up or wearing (for the ice was too strong to
+allow us to tack), sallying from morning to night with all hands,
+and with the watch at night, two boats constantly under the bows;
+and, after all, rather losing ground than otherwise, while the
+young ice was every hour increasing in thickness.</p>
+<p>Towards sunset on the 17th we became more and more hampered,
+and were eventually beset during the night. The sea was covered
+with ice between us and the shore, all of this year's formation,
+but now of considerable thickness and formidable appearance. The
+wind continuing strong, the whole body was constantly pressed in
+upon the land, bearing the ships along with it, and doubling one
+sheet over another, sometimes to a hundred thicknesses. We
+quickly shoaled the water from seventy to forty fathoms, the
+latter depth occurring about a mile from the beach; and after
+this we drifted but little, the ice being blocked up between the
+point and a high perpendicular berg lying aground off it.</p>
+<p>Under such circumstances, it evidently became expedient to
+endeavour, by sawing, to get the ships as close in-shore as
+possible, so as to secure them either to grounded ice, or by
+anchoring within the shelter of a bay at no great distance inside
+of us; for it now seemed not unlikely that winter was about to
+put a premature stop to all farther operations at sea for this
+season. At all events, it was necessary to consult the immediate
+safety of the ships, and to keep them from being drifted back to
+the eastward. I therefore gave orders for endeavouring to get the
+ships in towards the bay, by cutting through what level floes
+still remained. So strong had been the pressure while the ice was
+forcing in upon us, that on the 20th, after liberating the Hecla
+on one side, she was as firmly cemented to it on the other, as
+after a winter's formation; and we could only clear her by heavy
+and repeated "sallying." After cutting in two or three hundred
+yards, while the people were at dinner on the 21st, our canal
+closed by the external pressure coming upon the parts which we
+had weakened, and in a few minutes the whole was once more in
+motion, or, as the seamen not inaptly expressed it, "alive," mass
+doubling under mass, and raising those which were uppermost to a
+considerable height. The ice thus pressed together was now about
+ten feet in thickness in some places, and on an average not less
+than four or five, so that, while thus forced in upon a ship,
+although soft in itself, it caused her to tremble exceedingly; a
+sensation, indeed, commonly experienced in forcing through young
+ice of considerable thickness. We were now once more obliged to
+be quiet spectators of what was going on around us, having, with
+extreme difficulty, succeeded in saving most of our tools that
+were lying on the ice when the squeezing suddenly began.</p>
+<p>A sudden motion of the ice, on the morning of the 22d,
+occasioned by a change of the wind to the S.E., threatened to
+carry us directly off the land. It was now, more than ever,
+desirable to hold on, as this breeze was likely to clear the
+shore, and, at the same time, to give us a run to the westward.
+Hawsers were therefore run out to the land-ice, composed of some
+heavy masses, almost on the beach. With the Hecla this succeeded,
+but the Fury being much farther from the shore, soon began to
+move out with the whole body of ice, which, carrying her close to
+the large berg off the point, swept her round the latter, where,
+after great exertion, Captain Hoppner succeeded in getting clear,
+and then made sail to beat back to us. In the mean time the
+strain put upon the Hecla's hawsers being too great for them,
+they snapped one after another, and a bower-anchor was let go as
+a last resource. It was one of Hawkins's, with the double fluke,
+and immediately brought up, not merely the ship, but a large floe
+of young ice which had just broken our stream-cable. All hands
+were sent upon the floe to cut it up ahead, and the whole
+operation was a novel, and, at times, a fearful one; for the ice,
+being weakened by the cutting, would suddenly gather fresh way
+astern, carrying men and tools with it, while the chain cable
+continued to plough through it in a manner which gave one the
+idea of something alive, and continually renewing its attacks.
+The anchor held surprisingly; and after this tremendous strain
+had been put upon it for above an hour, we had fairly cut the
+floe in two, and the ship was riding in clear water about half a
+mile from the shore.</p>
+<p>I was in hopes we should make some progress, for a large
+channel of clear water was left open in-shore; a breeze blew off
+the land, and the temperature of the atmosphere had again risen
+considerably. We had not sailed five miles, however, when a
+westerly wind took us aback, and a most dangerous swell set
+directly upon the shore, obliging me immediately to stand off the
+land; and the Fury being still to the eastward of the point, I
+ran round it in order to rejoin her before sunset.</p>
+<p>After midnight on the 27th the wind began to moderate, and, by
+degrees, also drew more to the southward than before. At
+daylight, therefore, we found ourselves seven or eight miles from
+the land; but no ice was in sight, except the "sludge," of
+honey-like consistence, with which almost the whole sea was
+covered. A strong blink, extending along the eastern horizon,
+pointed out the position of the main body of ice, which was
+farther distant from the eastern shore of the inlet than I ever
+saw it. Being assisted by a fine working breeze, which, at the
+same time, prevented the formation of any more ice to obstruct
+us, we made considerable progress along the land, and at noon
+were nearly abreast of Jackson Inlet, which we now saw to be
+considerably larger than our distant view of it on the former
+voyage had led us to suppose. A few more tacks brought us to the
+entrance of Port Bowen, which, for two or three days past, I had
+determined to make our wintering-place, if, as there was but
+little reason to expect, we should be so fortunate as to push the
+ships thus far. Beating up, therefore, to Port Bowen, we found it
+filled with "old" and "hummocky" ice, attached to the shores on
+both sides, as low down as about three-quarters of a mile below
+Stony Island. Here we made fast in sixty-two fathoms water,
+running our hawsers far in upon the ice, in case of its breaking
+off at the margin.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c010_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c010">CHAPTER III.</a></h2>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>Winter Arrangements.&mdash;Improvements in Warming and
+Ventilating the Ships.&mdash;Masquerades adopted as an Amusement
+to the Men.&mdash;Establishment of Schools.&mdash;Astronomical
+Observations.&mdash;Meteorological Phenomena.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p><i>Oct</i>.&mdash;Our present winter arrangements so closely
+resembled, in general, those before adopted, that a fresh
+description of them would prove little more than a repetition of
+that already contained in the narratives of our former
+voyages.</p>
+<p>To those who read, as well as to those who describe, the
+account of a winter passed in these regions can no longer be
+expected to afford the interest of novelty it once possessed;
+more especially in a station already delineated with tolerable
+geographical precision on our maps, and thus, as it were, brought
+near to our firesides at home. Independently, indeed, of this
+circumstance, it is hard to conceive any one thing more like
+another than two winters passed in the higher latitudes of the
+Polar Regions, except when variety happens to be afforded by
+intercourse with some other branch of "the whole family of man."
+Winter after winter, nature here assumes an aspect so much alike,
+that cursory observation can scarcely detect a single feature of
+variety. The winter of more temperate climates, and even in some
+of no slight severity, is occasionally diversified by a thaw,
+which at once gives variety and comparative cheerfulness to the
+prospect. But here, when once the earth is covered, all is
+dreary, monotonous whiteness; not merely for days or weeks, but
+for more than half a year together. Whichever way the eye is
+turned, it meets a picture calculated to impress upon the mind an
+idea of inanimate stillness, of that motionless torpor with which
+our feelings have nothing congenial; of anything, in short, but
+life. In the very silence there is a deadness with which a human
+spectator appears <i>out of keeping</i>. The presence of man
+seems an intrusion on the dreary solitude of this wintry desert,
+which even its native animals have for a while forsaken.</p>
+<p>I am persuaded, therefore, that I shall be excused in sparing
+the dulness of another winter's diary, and confining myself
+exclusively to those facts which appear to possess any scientific
+interest, to the few incidents which <i>did</i> diversify our
+confinement, and to such remarks as may contribute to the health
+and comfort of any future sojourners in these dreary regions.</p>
+<p>It may well be supposed that, in this climate, the principal
+desideratum which art is called upon to furnish for the promotion
+of health, is warmth, as well in the external air as in the
+inhabited apartments. Exposure to a cold atmosphere, <i>when the
+body is well clothed</i>, produces no bad effect whatever beyond
+a frostbitten cheek, nose, or finger. As for any injury to
+healthy lungs from the breathing of cold air, or from sudden
+changes from this into a warm atmosphere, or <i>vice versa</i>,
+it may with much confidence be asserted that, with due attention
+to external clothing, there is nothing in this respect to be
+apprehended. This inference, at least, would appear legitimate,
+from the fact that our crews, consisting of one hundred and
+twenty persons, have for four winters been constantly undergoing,
+for months together, a change of from eighty to a hundred degrees
+of temperature, in the space of time required for opening two
+doors (perhaps less than half a minute), without incurring any
+pulmonary complaints at all.</p>
+<p>In speaking of the external clothing sufficient for health in
+this climate, it must be confessed that, in severe exposure,
+quite a <i>load</i> of woollen clothes, even of the best quality,
+is insufficient to retain a comfortable degree of warmth; a
+strong breeze carrying it off so rapidly, that the sensation is
+that of the cold piercing through the body. A jacket made very
+long, like those called by seamen "pea-jackets," and lined with
+fur throughout, would be more effectual than twice the weight of
+woollen clothes, and is, indeed, almost weather-proof. For the
+prevention of lumbago, to which our seamen are especially liable,
+from their well-known habit of leaving their loins imperfectly
+clothed, every man should be strictly obliged to wear, under his
+outer clothes, a canvass belt a foot broad, lined with flannel,
+and having straps to go over the shoulder.<a name=
+'FNanchor_006_6'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_006_6'><sup>[006]</sup></a></p>
+<p>It is certain, however, that no precautions in clothing are
+sufficient to maintain health during a Polar winter, without a
+due degree of warmth in the apartments we inhabit. Most persons
+are apt to associate with the idea of warmth, something like the
+comfort derived from a good fire on a winter's evening at home;
+but in these regions the case is inconceivably different: here it
+is not simple comfort, but health, and, therefore, ultimately
+life, that depends upon it. The want of a constant supply of
+warmth is here immediately followed by a condensation of all the
+moisture, whether from the breath, victuals, or other sources,
+into abundant drops of water, very rapidly forming on all the
+coldest parts of the deck. A still lower temperature modifies,
+and perhaps improves, the annoyance by converting it into ice,
+which again an occasional increase of warmth dissolves into
+water. Nor is this the amount of the evil, though it is the only
+visible part of it; for not only is a moist atmosphere thus
+incessantly kept up, but it is rendered stagnant also by the want
+of that ventilation which warmth alone can furnish. With an
+apartment in this state, the men's clothes and bedding are
+continually in a moist and unwholesome condition, generating a
+deleterious air, which there is no circulation to carry off; and,
+whenever these circumstances combine for any length of time
+together, so surely may the scurvy, to say nothing of other
+diseases, be confidently expected to exhibit itself.</p>
+<p>Every attention was, as usual, paid to the occupation and
+diversion of the men's minds, as well as to the regularity of
+their bodily exercise. Our former amusements being almost worn
+threadbare, it required some ingenuity to devise any plan that
+should possess the charm of novelty to recommend it. This purpose
+was completely answered by a proposal of Captain Hoppner, to
+attempt a <i>masquerade</i>, in which officers and men should
+alike take a part, but which, without imposing any restraint
+whatever, would leave every one to his own choice whether to join
+in this diversion or not. It is impossible that any idea could
+have proved more happy, or more exactly suited to our situation.
+Admirably dressed characters of various descriptions readily took
+their parts, and many of these were supported with a degree of
+spirit and genuine humour which would not have disgraced a more
+refined assembly; while the latter might not have disdained, and
+would not have been disgraced by, copying the good order,
+decorum, and inoffensive cheerfulness which our humble masquerade
+presented. It does especial credit to the dispositions and good
+sense of our men, that, though all the officers entered fully
+into the spirit of these amusements, which took place once a
+month, no instance occurred of anything that could interfere with
+the regular discipline, or at all weaken the respect of the men
+towards their superiors. Ours were masquerades without
+licentiousness; carnivals without excess.</p>
+<p>But an occupation not less assiduously pursued, and of
+infinitely more eventual benefit, was furnished by the
+re-establishment of our schools, under the voluntary
+superintendence of my friend Mr. Hooper in the Hecla, and of Mr.
+Mogg in the Fury. By the judicious zeal of Mr. Hooper, the
+Hecla's school was made subservient, not merely to the
+improvement of the men in reading and writing (in which, however,
+their progress was surprisingly great), but also to the
+cultivation of that religious feeling which so essentially
+improves the character of a seaman, by furnishing the highest
+motives for increased attention to every other duty. Nor was the
+benefit confined to the eighteen or twenty individuals whose want
+of scholarship brought them to the school-table, but extended
+itself to the rest of the ship's company, making the whole
+lower-deck such a scene of quiet rational occupation as I never
+before saw on board a ship. And I do not speak lightly when I
+express my thorough persuasion, that to the moral effects thus
+produced upon the minds of the men, were owing, in a very high
+degree, the constant yet sober cheerfulness, the uninterrupted
+good order, and even, in some measure, the extraordinary state of
+health which prevailed among us during this winter.</p>
+<p>The extreme facility with which sounds are heard at a
+considerable distance in severely cold weather, has often been a
+subject of remark; but a circumstance occurred at Port Bowen
+which deserves to be noticed, as affording a sort of measure of
+this facility, or, at least, conveying to others some definite
+idea of the fact. Lieutenant Foster having occasion to send a man
+from the observatory to the opposite shore of the harbour, a
+measured distance of 6696 feet, or about one statute mile and two
+tenths, in order to fix a meridian mark, had placed a second
+person half way between, to repeat his directions; but he found,
+on trial, that this precaution was unnecessary, as he could,
+without difficulty, keep up a conversation with the man at the
+distant station. The thermometer was at this time-18&deg;, the
+barometer 30.14 inches, and the weather nearly calm, and quite
+clear and serene.</p>
+<p>About one o'clock on the morning of the 23d February, the
+Aurora appeared over the hills in a south direction, presenting a
+brilliant mass of light. The rolling motion of the light
+laterally was very striking, as well as the increase of its
+intensity thus occasioned. The light occupied horizontally about
+a point of the compass, and extended in height scarcely a degree
+above the land, which seemed, however, to conceal from us a part
+of the phenomenon. It was always evident enough that the most
+attenuated light of the Aurora sensibly dimmed the stars, like a
+thin veil drawn over them. We frequently listened for any sound
+proceeding from this phenomenon, but never heard any. Our
+variation needles, which were extremely light, suspended in the
+most delicate manner, and, from the weak directive energy,
+susceptible of being acted upon by a very slight disturbing
+force, were never, in a single instance, sensibly affected by the
+Aurora, which could scarcely fail to have been observed at some
+time or other, had any such disturbance taken place, the needles
+being visited every hour for several months, and oftener when
+anything occurred to make it desirable.</p>
+<p>The meteors called falling stars were much more frequent
+during this winter than we ever before saw them, and particularly
+during the month of December.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c011_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c011">CHAPTER IV.</a></h2>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>Re-equipment of the Ships.&mdash;Several Journeys
+undertaken.&mdash;Open Water in the Offing.&mdash;Commence sawing
+a Canal to liberate the Ships.&mdash;Disruption of the
+Ice.&mdash;Departure from Port Bowen.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p>The height of the land about Port Bowen deprived us longer
+than usual of the sun's presence above our horizon. Some of our
+gentlemen, indeed, who ascended a high hill for the purpose,
+caught a glimpse of him on the 2d of February; on the 15th it
+became visible at the observatory, but at the ships not till the
+22d, after an absence of one hundred and twenty-one days. It is
+very long after the sun's reappearance in these regions, however,
+that the effect of his rays, as to warmth, becomes perceptible;
+week passes after week, with scarcely any rise in the thermometer
+except for an hour or two during the day; and it is at this
+period more than any other, perhaps, that the lengthened duration
+of a Polar winter's cold is most wearisome, and creates the most
+impatience. Towards the third week in March, thin flakes of snow
+lying upon black painted wood or metal, and exposed to the sun's
+direct rays in a sheltered situation, readily melted. In the
+second week of April any very light covering of sand or ashes
+upon the snow close to the ships might be observed to make its
+way downward into holes; but a coat of sand laid upon the
+unsheltered ice, to the distance of about two thirds of a mile,
+for dissolving a canal to hasten our liberation, produced no such
+sensible effect till the beginning of May. Even then the
+dissolution was very trifling till about the first week in June,
+when pools of water began to make their appearance, and not long
+after this a small boat would have floated down it. On shore the
+effect is, in general, still more tardy, though some deception is
+there occasioned by the dissolution of the snow next the ground,
+while its upper surface is to all appearance undergoing little or
+no change. Thus a greater alteration is sometimes produced in the
+aspect of the land by a single warm day in an advanced part of
+the season, than in many weeks preceding, in consequence of the
+last crust of snow being dissolved, leaving the ground at length
+entirely bare. We could now perceive the snow beginning to leave
+the stones from day to day, as early as the last week in April.
+Towards the end of May a great deal of snow was dissolved daily;
+but, owing to the porous nature of the ground, which absorbed it
+as fast as it was formed, it was not easy to procure water for
+drinking on shore, even as late as the 10th of June. In the
+ravines, however, it could be heard trickling under stones before
+that time; and about the 18th, many considerable streams were
+formed, and constantly running both night and day. After this the
+thawing proceeded at an inconceivably rapid rate, the whole
+surface of the floes being covered with large pools of water
+rapidly increasing in size and depth.</p>
+<p>The animals seen at Port Bowen may now be briefly noticed. The
+principal of these seen during the winter were bears, of which we
+killed twelve from October to June, being more than during all
+the other voyages taken together; and several others were seen.
+One of these animals was near proving fatal to a seaman of the
+Fury, who, having straggled from his companions, when at the top
+of a high hill saw a large bear coming towards him. Being
+unarmed, he prudently made off, taking off his boots to enable
+him to run the faster, but not so prudently precipitated himself
+over an almost perpendicular cliff, down which he was said to
+have rolled or fallen several hundred feet; here he was met by
+some of the people in so lacerated a condition as to be in a very
+dangerous state for some time after.</p>
+<p>A she-bear, killed in the open water on our first arrival at
+Port Bowen, afforded a striking instance of maternal affection in
+her anxiety to save her two cubs. She might herself easily have
+escaped the boat, but would not forsake her young, which she was
+actually "towing" off, by allowing them to rest on her back, when
+the boat came near them. A second similar instance occurred in
+the spring, when two cubs having got down into a large crack in
+the ice, their mother placed herself before them, so as to secure
+them from the attacks of our people, which she might easily have
+avoided herself.</p>
+<p>One or two foxes (<i>Canis Lagopus</i>) were killed, and four
+caught in traps during the winter, weighing from four pounds and
+three quarters to three pounds and three quarters. The colour of
+one of these animals, which lived for some time on board the
+Fury, and became tolerably tame, was nearly pure white till the
+month of May, when he shed his winter coat, and became of a dirty
+chocolate colour, with two or three light brown spots. Only three
+hares (<i>Lepus Variabilis</i>) were killed from October to June,
+weighing from six to eight pounds and three quarters. Their fur
+was extremely thick, soft, and of the most beautiful whiteness
+imaginable. We saw no deer near Port Bowen at any season, neither
+were we visited by their enemies the wolves. A single ermine and
+a few mice (<i>Mus Hudsonius</i>) complete, I believe, our scanty
+list of quadrupeds at this desolate and unproductive place.</p>
+<p>Towards the end of June, the dovekies (<i>Colymbus Grylle</i>)
+were extremely numerous in the cracks of the ice at the entrance
+of Port Bowen; and as these were the only fresh supply of any
+consequence that we were able to procure at this unproductive
+place, we were glad to permit the men to go out occasionally with
+guns, after the ships were ready for sea, to obtain for their
+messes this wholesome change of diet; while such excursions also
+contributed essentially to their general health and cheerfulness.
+Many hundreds of these birds were thus obtained in the course of
+a few days. On the evening of the 6th of July, however, I was
+greatly shocked at being informed by Captain Hoppner that John
+Cotterell,<a name='FNanchor_007_7'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_007_7'><sup>[007]</sup></a> a seaman of the Fury, had
+been found drowned in one of the cracks of the ice by two other
+men belonging to the same party, who had been with him but a few
+minutes before. We could never ascertain precisely in what manner
+this accident happened, but it was supposed that he must have
+overreached himself in stooping for a bird that he had killed.
+His remains were committed to the earth on Sunday the 10th, with
+every solemnity which the occasion demanded, and our situation
+would allow; and a tomb of stones, with a suitable inscription,
+was afterward erected over the grave.</p>
+<p>In order to obtain oil for another winter's consumption,
+before the ships could be released from the ice, and our
+travelling parties having seen a number of black whales in the
+open water to the northward, two boats from each ship were, with
+considerable labour, transported four miles along shore in that
+direction, to be in readiness for killing a whale and boiling the
+oil on the beach, whenever the open water should approach
+sufficiently near. Notwithstanding these preparations, however,
+it was vexatious to find that on the 9th of July the water was
+still three miles distant from the boats, and at least seven from
+Port Bowen. On the 12th, the ice in our neighbourhood began to
+detach itself, and the boats, under the command of Lieutenants
+Sherer and Ross, being launched on the following day, succeeded
+almost immediately in killing a small whale of "five feet bone,"
+exactly answering our purpose. Almost at the same time, and, as
+it turned out, very opportunely, the ice at the mouth of our
+harbour detached itself at an old crack, and drifted off, leaving
+only about one mile and a quarter between us and the sea. Half of
+this distance being occupied by the gravelled canal, which was
+dissolved quite through the ice in many parts, and had become
+very thin in all, every officer and man in both ships were set to
+work without delay to commence a fresh canal from the open water
+to communicate with the other. This work proved heavier than we
+expected, the ice being generally from five to eight feet, and in
+many places from ten to eleven in thickness. It was continued,
+however, with the greatest cheerfulness and alacrity from seven
+in the morning till seven in the evening daily, the dinner being
+prepared on the ice, and eaten under the lee of a studding sail
+erected as a tent.</p>
+<p>On the afternoon of the 19th, a very welcome stop was put to
+our operations by the separation of the floe entirely across the
+harbour, and about one third from the ships to where we were at
+work. All hands being instantly recalled by signal, were, on
+their return, set to work to get the ships into the gravelled
+canal, and to saw away what still remained in it to prevent our
+warping to sea. This work, with only half an hour's intermission
+for the men's supper, was continued till half past six the
+following morning, when we succeeded in getting clear. The
+weather being calm, two hours were occupied in towing the ships
+to sea, and thus the officers and men were employed at a very
+laborious work for twenty-six hours, during which time there
+were, on one occasion, fifteen of them overboard at once; and,
+indeed, several individuals met with the same accident three
+times. It was impossible, however, to regret the necessity of
+these comparatively trifling exertions, especially as it was now
+evident that to saw our way out without any canal would have
+required at least a fortnight of heavy and fatiguing labour.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c012_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c012">CHAPTER V.</a></h2>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>Sail over towards the Western Coast of Prince Regent's
+Inlet.&mdash;Stopped by the Ice.&mdash;Reach the Shore about Cape
+Seppings.&mdash;Favourable Progress along the Land.&mdash;Fresh
+and repeated Obstructions from Ice.&mdash;Both Ships driven on
+Shore.&mdash;Fury seriously damaged.&mdash;Unsuccessful Search
+for a Harbour for heaving her down to repair.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p><i>July</i> 20.&mdash;On standing out to sea, we sailed, with
+a light southerly wind, towards the western shore of Prince
+Regent's Inlet, which it was my first wish to gain, on account of
+the evident advantage to be derived from coasting the southern
+part of that portion of land called in the chart "North
+Somerset," as far as it might lead to the westward; which, from
+our former knowledge, we had reason to suppose it would do as far
+at least as the longitude of 95&deg;, in the parallel of about
+72-3/4&ordm;. After sailing about eight miles, we were stopped by
+a body of close ice lying between us and a space of open water
+beyond. We were shortly after enveloped in one of the thick fogs
+which had, for several weeks past, been observed almost daily
+hanging over some part of the sea in the offing, though we had
+scarcely experienced any in Port Bowen until the water became
+open at the mouth of the harbour.</p>
+<p>On the clearing up of the fog on the 21st, we could perceive
+no opening of the ice leading towards the western land, nor any
+appearance of the smallest channel to the southward along the
+eastern shore. I was determined, therefore, to try at once a
+little farther to the northward, the present state of the ice
+appearing completely to accord with that observed in 1819, its
+breadth increasing as we advanced from Prince Leopold's Islands
+to the southward.</p>
+<p>Light winds detained us very much, but, being at length
+favoured by a breeze, we carried all sail to the northwest, the
+ice very gradually leading us towards the Leopold Isles. Having
+arrived off the northernmost on the morning of the 22nd, it was
+vexatious, however curious, to observe the exact coincidence of
+the present position of the ice with that which it occupied a
+little later in the year 1819. The whole body of it seemed to
+cling to the western shore, as if held there by some strong
+attraction, forbidding, for the present, any access to it. After
+running all night, with light and variable winds, through loose
+and scattered ice, we suddenly found ourselves, on the clearing
+up of a thick fog through which we had been sailing on the
+morning of the 24th, within one third of a mile of Cape Seppings,
+the land just appearing above the fog in time to save us from
+danger, the soundings being thirty-eight fathoms, on a rocky
+bottom. The Fury being apprized by guns of our situation, both
+ships were hauled off the land, and the fog soon after
+dispersing, we had the satisfaction to perceive that the late
+gale had blown the ice off the land, leaving us a fine navigable
+channel from one to two miles wide, as far as we could see from
+the masthead along the shore. We were able to avail ourselves of
+this but slowly, however, in consequence of a light southerly
+breeze still blowing against us.</p>
+<p>The land here, when closely viewed, assumes a very striking,
+and magnificent character; the strata of limestone, which are
+numerous and quite horizontally disposed, being much more regular
+than on the eastern shore of Prince Regent's Inlet, and retaining
+nearly their whole perpendicular height of six or seven hundred
+feet close to the sea. I may here remark, that the whole of
+Barrow's Strait, as far as we could see to the N.N.E. of the
+islands, was entirely free from ice; and, from whatever
+circumstance it may proceed, I do not think that this part of the
+Polar Sea is at any season very much encumbered with it.</p>
+<p>It was the general feeling at this period among us, that the
+voyage had but now commenced. The labours of a bad summer, and
+the tedium of a long winter, were forgotten in a moment when we
+found ourselves upon ground not hitherto explored, and with every
+apparent prospect before us of making as rapid a progress as the
+nature of this navigation will permit, towards the final
+accomplishment of our object.</p>
+<p>A breeze enabling us again to make some progress, and an open
+channel still favouring us, of nearly the same breadth as before,
+we passed, during the night of the 25th, a second bay, about the
+same size as the other, and also appearing open to the sea; it
+lies in latitude (by account from the preceding and following
+noon) 73&deg; 19' 30", and its width is one mile and a half. We
+now perceived that the ice closed completely in with the land a
+short distance beyond us; and, having made all the way we could,
+were obliged to stand off and on during the day in a channel not
+three quarters of a mile wide.</p>
+<p>A light southerly breeze on the morning of the 28th gradually
+cleared the shore, and a fresh wind from the N.W. then
+immediately succeeded. We instantly took advantage of this
+circumstance, and, casting off at six A.M., ran eight or nine
+miles without obstruction, when we were stopped by the ice,
+which, in a closely packed and impenetrable body, stretched close
+into the shore as far as the eye could reach from the crow's
+nest. Being anxious to gain every foot of distance that we could,
+and perceiving some grounded ice which appeared favourable for
+making fast to, just at a point where the clear water terminated,
+the ships were run to the utmost extent of it, and a boat
+prepared from each to examine the water at the intended anchoring
+place. Just as I was about to leave the Hecla for that purpose,
+the ice was observed, to be in rapid motion towards the shore.
+The Fury was immediately hauled in by some grounded masses, and
+placed to the best advantage; but the Hecla, being more advanced,
+was immediately beset in spite of every exertion, and, after
+breaking two of the largest ice-anchors in endeavouring to heave
+in to the shore, was obliged to drift with the ice, several
+masses of which had fortunately interposed themselves between us
+and the land. The ice slackening around us a little in the
+evening, we were enabled, with considerable labour, to get to
+some grounded masses, where we lay much exposed, as the Fury also
+did. In this situation, our latitude being 72&deg; 51' 51", we
+saw a comparatively low point of land three or four leagues to
+the southward, which proved to be near that which terminated our
+view of this coast in 1819.</p>
+<p>The ice opening for a mile and a half alongshore on the 30th,
+we shifted the Hecla's berth about that distance to the
+southward, chiefly to be enabled to see more distinctly round a
+point which before obstructed our view, though our situation as
+regarded the security of the ship was much altered for the worse.
+In the afternoon it blew a hard gale, with constant rain, from
+the northward, the clouds indicating an easterly wind in other
+parts. This wind, which was always the troublesome one to us,
+soon brought the ice closer and closer, till it pressed with very
+considerable violence on both ships, though the most upon the
+Fury, which lay in a very exposed situation. Early on the morning
+of the 31st, as soon as a communication could be effected,
+Captain Hoppner sent to inform me that the Fury had been forced
+on the ground, where she still lay; but that she would probably
+be hove off without much difficulty at high water, provided the
+external ice did not prevent it. A large party of hands from the
+Hecla being sent round to the Fury towards high water, she came
+off the ground with very little strain, so that, upon the whole,
+considering the situation in which the ships were lying, we
+thought ourselves fortunate in having incurred no very serious
+injury. A shift of wind to the southward in the afternoon at
+length began gradually to slacken it, but it was not till six
+A.M. on the 1st of August that there appeared a prospect of
+making any progress. The signal to that effect was immediately
+made; but, while the sails were setting, the ice, which had at
+first been three quarters of a mile distant from us, was observed
+to be closing the shore The ships were cast with all expedition,
+in hopes of gaining the broader channel before the ice had time
+to shut us up. So rapid, however, was the latter in this its
+sudden movement, that we had but just got the ships' heads the
+right way when the ice came boldly in upon us, being doubtless
+set in motion by a very sudden freshening of the wind almost to a
+gale in the course of a few minutes. The ships were now almost
+instantly beset, and in such a manner as to be literally helpless
+and unmanageable.</p>
+<p>The sails were, however, kept set; and, as the body of ice was
+setting to the southward withal, we went with it some little
+distance in that direction. The Hecla, after thus driving, and
+now and then forcing her way through the ice, in all about three
+quarters of a mile, quite close to the shore, at length struck
+the ground forcibly several times in the space of a hundred
+yards, and being then brought up by it, remained immoveable, the
+depth of water under her keel abaft being sixteen feet, or about
+a foot less than she drew. The Fury, continuing to drive, was now
+irresistibly carried past us, and we escaped, only by a few feet,
+the damage invariably occasioned by ships coming in contact under
+such circumstances. She had, however, scarcely passed us a
+hundred yards, when it was evident, by the ice pressing her in,
+as well as along the shore, that she must soon be stopped like
+the Hecla; and having gone about two hundred yards farther, she
+was observed to receive a severe pressure from a large floe-piece
+forcing her directly against a grounded mass of ice upon the
+beach. After setting to the southward for an hour or two longer,
+the ice became stationary, no open water being anywhere visible
+from the masthead, and the pressure on the ships remaining
+undiminished during the day. Just as I had ascertained the utter
+impossibility of moving the Hecla a single foot, and that she
+must lie aground fore and aft as soon as the tide fell, I
+received a note from Captain Hoppner, informing me that the Fury
+had been so severely "nipped" and strained as to leak a good
+deal, apparently about four inches an hour; that she was still
+heavily pressed both upon the ground and against the large mass
+of ice within her; that the rudder was at present very awkwardly
+situated; and that one boat had been much damaged. However, about
+high water, the ice very opportunely slacking, the Hecla was hove
+off with great ease, and warped to a floe in the offing, to which
+we made fast at midnight. The Fury was not long after us in
+coming off the ground, when I was in hopes of finding that any
+twist or strain by which her leaks might have been occasioned,
+would, in some measure, close when she was relieved from pressure
+and once more fairly afloat. My disappointment and mortification,
+therefore, may in some measure be imagined, at being informed by
+telegraph, about two A.M. on the 2d, that the water was gaining
+on two pumps, and that a part of the doubling had floated up.
+Presently after, perceiving from the masthead something like a
+small harbour nearly abreast of us, every effort was made to get
+once more towards the shore. In this the ice happily favoured us;
+and, after making sail, and one or two tacks, we got in with the
+land, when I left the ship in a boat to sound the place and
+search for shelter. The whole shore was more or less lined with
+grounded masses of ice; but, after examining the soundings within
+more than twenty of them, in the space of about a mile, I could
+only find two that would allow the ships to float at low water,
+and that by some care in placing and keeping them there. Having
+fixed a flag on each berg, the usual signal for the ships taking
+their stations, I rowed on board the Fury, and found four pumps
+constantly going to keep the ship free, and Captain Hoppner, his
+officers and men, almost exhausted with the incessant labour of
+the last eight-and-forty hours. The instant the ships were made
+fast, Captain Hoppner and myself set out in a boat to survey the
+shore still farther south, there being a narrow lane of water
+about a mile in that direction; for it had now become too evident
+that the Fury could proceed no farther without repairs, and that
+the nature of those repairs would in all probability involve the
+disagreeable, I may say the ruinous, necessity of heaving the
+ship down. After rowing about three quarters of a mile, we
+considered ourselves fortunate in arriving at a bolder part of
+the beach, where three grounded masses of ice, having from three
+to four fathoms water at low tide within them, were so disposed
+as to afford, with the assistance of art, something like shelter.
+Returning to the ships, we were setting the sails in order to run
+to the appointed place, when the ice closed in and prevented our
+moving, and in a short time there was once more no open water to
+be seen. We were therefore under the necessity of remaining in
+our present berths, where the smallest external pressure must
+inevitably force us ashore, neither ship having more than two
+feet of water to spare. One watch of the Hecla's crew were sent
+round to assist at the Fury's pumps, which required one third of
+her ship's company to be constantly employed at them.</p>
+<p>The more leisure we obtained to consider the state of the
+Fury, the more apparent became the absolute, however unfortunate,
+necessity of heaving her down. Four pumps were required to be at
+work without intermission to keep her free, and this in perfectly
+smooth water, showing that she was, in fact, so materially
+injured as to be very far from seaworthy. One third of her
+working men were constantly employed, as before remarked, in this
+laborious operation, and some of their hands had become so sore
+from the constant friction of the ropes, that they could hardly
+handle them any longer without the use of mittens, assisted by
+the unlaying of the ropes to make them soft. As, therefore, not a
+moment could be lost, we took advantage of a small lane of water,
+deep enough for boats, which kept open within the grounded masses
+along the shore, to convey to the Hecla some of the Fury's dry
+provisions, and to land a quantity of heavy iron work, and other
+stores not perishable; for the moment this measure was determined
+on, I was anxious, almost at any risk, to commence the lightening
+of the ship as far as our present insecurity and our distance
+from the shore would permit.</p>
+<p>At two A.M. on the 5th, the ice began to slacken near the
+ships, and, as soon as a boat could be rowed alongshore to the
+southward, I set out, accompanied by a second from the Fury, for
+the purpose of examining the state of our intended harbour since
+the recent pressure, and to endeavour to prepare for the
+reception of the ships by clearing out the loose ice. The Fury
+was detained some time by a quantity of loose ice, which had
+wedged itself in in such a manner as to leave her no room to move
+outward; but she arrived about seven o'clock, when both ships
+were made fast in the best berths we could find, but they were
+excluded from their intended place by the quantity of ice which
+had fixed itself there. Within twenty minutes after our arrival,
+the whole body of ice again came in, entirely closing up the
+shore, so that our moving proved most opportune.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c013_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c013">CHAPTER VI.</a></h2>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>Formation of a Basin for heaving the Fury down.&mdash;Landing
+of the Fury's Stores, and other Preparations.&mdash;The Ships
+secured within the Basin.&mdash;Impediments from the Pressure of
+the Ice.&mdash;Fury hove down.&mdash;Securities of the Basin
+destroyed by a Gale of Wind.&mdash;Preparations to tow the Fury
+out.&mdash;Hecla Re-equipped, and obliged to put to
+Sea.&mdash;Fury again driven on Shore.&mdash;Rejoin the Fury; and
+find it necessary finally to abandon her.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p>As there was now no longer room for floating the ice out of
+the proposed basin, all hands were immediately employed in
+preparing the intended securities against the incursions of the
+ice. These consisted of anchors carried to the beach, having
+bower-cables attached to them, passing quite round the grounded
+masses, and thus enclosing a small space of just sufficient size
+to admit both ships. The cables we proposed floating by means of
+the two hand-masts and some empty casks lashed to them as buoys,
+with the intention of thus making them receive the pressure of
+the ice a foot or two below the surface of the water. By uncommon
+exertions on the part of the officers and men, this laborious
+work was completed before night as far as was practicable until
+the loose ice should set out; and all the tents were set up on
+the beach for the reception of the Fury's stores.</p>
+<p>The ice remaining quite close on the 6th, every individual in
+both ships, with the exception of those at the pumps, was
+employed in landing provisions from the Fury, together with the
+spars, boats, and everything from off her upper deck. On the
+following day, the ice remaining as before, the work was
+continued without intermission, and a great quantity of things
+landed. The armorer was also set to work on the beach in forging
+bolts for the martingales of the outriggers. In short, every
+living creature among us was somehow or other employed, not even
+excepting our dogs, which were set to drag up the stores on the
+beach; so that our little dock-yard soon exhibited the most
+animated scene imaginable. The Fury was thus so much lightened in
+the course of the day, that two pumps were now nearly sufficient
+to keep her free, and this number continued requisite until she
+was hove down.</p>
+<p>At night, just as the people were going to rest, the ice began
+to move to the southward, and soon after came in towards the
+shore, pressing the Fury over on her side to so alarming a
+degree, as to warn us that it would not be safe to lighten her
+much more in her present insecure situation. One of our bergs
+also shifted its position by this pressure, so as to weaken our
+confidence in the pier-heads of our intended basin; and a long
+"tongue" of one of them forcing itself under the Hecla's
+forefoot, while the drifting ice was also pressing her forcibly
+from astern, she once more sewed three or four feet forward at
+low water, and continued to do so, notwithstanding repeated
+endeavours to haul her off, for four successive tides, the ice
+remaining so close and so much doubled under the ship, as to
+render it impossible to move her a single inch. Notwithstanding
+the state of the ice, however, we did not remain idle on the 8th,
+all hands being employed in unrigging the Fury, and landing all
+her spars, sails, booms, boats, and other top weight.</p>
+<p>The ice still continuing very close on the 9th, all hands were
+employed in attempting, by saws and axes, to clear the Hecla,
+which still grounded on the tongue of ice every tide. After four
+hours' labour, they succeeded in making four or five feet of room
+astern, when the ship suddenly slid down off the tongue with
+considerable force, and became once more afloat. As it very
+opportunely happened, the external ice slackened to the distance
+of about a hundred yards outside of us on the morning of the
+10th, enabling us, by a most tedious and laborious operation, to
+clear the ice out of our basin piece by piece. Our next business
+was to tighten the cables sufficiently by means of purchases, and
+to finish the floating of them in the manner and for the purpose
+before described. After this had been completed, the ships had
+only a few feet in length, and nothing in breadth to spare, but
+we had now great hopes of going on with our work with increased
+confidence and security. The Fury, which was placed inside, had
+something less than eighteen feet at low water; the Hecla lay in
+four fathoms, the bottom being strewed with large and small
+fragments of limestone.</p>
+<p>While thus employed in securing the ships, the smoothness of
+the water enabled us to see, in some degree, the nature of the
+Fury's damage; and it may be conceived how much pain it
+occasioned us plainly to discover that both the sternpost and
+forefoot were broken and turned up on one side with the pressure.
+We also could perceive, as far as we were able to see along the
+main keel, that it was much torn, and we had therefore much
+reason to conclude that the damage would altogether prove very
+serious. We also discovered that several feet of the Hecla's
+false keel were torn away abreast of the forechains, in
+consequence of her grounding forward so frequently.</p>
+<p>Being favoured with fine weather, we continued our work very
+quickly, so that on the 12th every cask was landed, and also the
+powder; and the spare sails and clothing put on board the Hecla.
+The coals and preserved meats were the principal things now
+remaining on board the Fury, and these we continued landing by
+every method we could devise as the most expeditious.</p>
+<p>Early on the morning of the 14th, the ice slackening a little
+in our neighbourhood, we took advantage of it, though the people
+were much fagged, to tighten the cables, which had stretched and
+yielded considerably by the late pressure. It was well that we
+did so; for in the course of this day we were several times
+interrupted in our work by the ice coming with a tremendous
+strain on the north cables, the wind blowing strong from the
+N.N.W., and the whole "pack" outside of us setting rapidly to the
+southward. Indeed, notwithstanding the recent tightening and
+readjustment of the cables, the bight was pressed in so much as
+to force the Fury against the berg astern of her twice in the
+course of the day.</p>
+<p>From this trial of the efficacy of our means of security, it
+was plain that the Fury could not possibly be hove down under
+circumstances of such frequent and imminent risk: I therefore
+directed a fourth anchor, with two additional cables, to be
+carried out, with the hope of breaking some of the force of the
+ice by its offering a more oblique resistance than the other, and
+thus, by degrees, turning the direction of the pressure from the
+ships. We had scarcely completed this new defence, when the
+largest floe we had seen since leaving Port Bowen came sweeping
+along the shore, having a motion to the southward of not less
+than a mile and a half an hour; and a projecting point of it,
+just grazing our outer berg, threatened to overturn it, and would
+certainly have dislodged it from its situation but for the cable
+recently attached to it.</p>
+<p>The Fury being completely cleared at an early hour on the
+16th, we were all busily employed in "winding" the ship, and in
+preparing the outriggers, shores, purchases, and additional
+rigging. Though we purposely selected the time of high water for
+turning the ship round, we had scarcely a foot of space to spare
+for doing it; and indeed, as it was, her forefoot touched the
+ground, and loosened the broken part of the wood so much as to
+enable us to pull it up with ropes, when we found the fragments
+to consist of the whole of the "gripe" and most of the
+"cutwater." In the evening we received the Fury's crew on board
+the Hecla, every arrangement and regulation having been
+previously made for their personal comfort, and for the
+preservation of cleanliness, ventilation, and dry warmth
+throughout the ship. The officers of the Fury, by their own
+choice, pitched a tent on shore for messing and sleeping in, as
+our accommodation for two sets of officers was necessarily
+confined. Every preparation being made, at three A.M. on the 18th
+we began to heave her down on the larboard side; but when the
+purchases were nearly ablock, we found that the strops under the
+Hecla's bottom, as well as some of the Fury's shore-fasts, had
+stretched or yielded so much that they could not bring the keel
+out of water within three or four feet. We immediately eased her
+up again, and readjusted everything as requisite, hauling her
+farther in-shore than before by keeping a considerable heel upon
+her, so as to make less depth of water necessary; and we were
+then in the act of once more heaving her down, when a snowstorm
+came on and blew with such violence off the land as to raise a
+considerable sea. The ships had now so much motion as to strain
+the gear very much, and even to make the lower masts of the Fury
+bend in spite of the shores; we were, therefore, most unwillingly
+compelled to desist until the sea should go down, keeping
+everything ready to recommence the instant we could possibly do
+so with safety. The officers and men were now literally so
+harassed and fatigued as to be scarcely capable of farther
+exertion without some rest; and on this and one or two other
+occasions, I noticed more than a single instance of stupor,
+amounting to a certain degree of failure in intellect, rendering
+the individual so affected quite unable at first to comprehend
+the meaning of an order, though still as willing as ever to obey
+it. It was therefore, perhaps, a fortunate necessity that
+produced the intermission of labour which the strength of every
+individual seemed to require.</p>
+<p>The gale rather increasing than otherwise during the whole day
+and night of the 18th, had, on the following morning, when the
+wind and sea still continued unabated, so destroyed the bergs on
+which our sole dependance was placed, that they no longer
+remained aground at low water; the cables had again become slack
+about them, and the basin we had taken so much pains in forming
+had now lost all its defences, at least during a portion of every
+tide. After a night of most anxious consideration and
+consultation with Captain Hoppner, who was now my messmate in the
+Hecla, it appeared but too plain that, should the ice again come
+in, neither ship could any longer be secured from driving on
+shore. It was therefore determined instantly to prepare the Hecla
+for sea, making her thoroughly effective in every respect; so
+that we might at least push <i>her</i> out into comparative
+safety among the ice when it closed again, taking every person on
+board her, securing the Fury in the best manner we could, and
+returning to her the instant we were able to do so, to endeavour
+to get her out, and to carry her to some place of security for
+heaving down. If, after the Hecla was ready, time should still be
+allowed us, it was proposed immediately to put into the Fury all
+that was requisite, or, at least, as much as she could safely
+carry, and, towing her out into the ice, to try the effect of
+"foddering" the leaks by sails under those parts of her keel
+which we knew to be damaged, until some more effectual means
+could be resorted to.</p>
+<p>Having communicated to the assembled officers and ships'
+companies my views and intentions, we commenced our work; and
+such was the hearty good-will and indefatigable energy with which
+it was carried on, that by midnight the whole was
+accomplished.</p>
+<p>On the 20th, therefore, the reloading of the Fury commenced
+with recruited strength and spirits, such articles being in the
+first place selected for putting on board as were essentially
+requisite for her reequipment; for it was my full determination,
+could we succeed in completing this, not to wait even for rigging
+a topmast, or getting a lower yard up, in the event of the ice
+coming in, but to tow her out among the ice, and there put
+everything sufficiently to rights for carrying her to some place
+of security. A few hands were also spared, consisting chiefly of
+two or three convalescents, and some of the officers, to thrum a
+sail for putting under the Fury's keel; for we were very anxious
+to relieve the men at the pumps, which constantly required the
+labour of eight to twelve hands to keep her free. By a long and
+hard day's labour, the people not going to rest till two o'clock
+on the morning of the 21st, we got about fifty tons' weight of
+coals and provisions on board the Fury, which, in case of
+necessity, we considered sufficient to give her stability. Having
+hauled the ships out a little from the shore, and prepared the
+Hecla for casting by a spring at a moment's notice, all the
+people except those at the pumps were sent to rest, which,
+however, they had not enjoyed for two hours, when, at four A.M.
+on the 21st, another heavy mass coming violently in contact with
+the bergs and cables, threatened to sweep away every remaining
+security. More hawsers were run out, however, and enabled us
+still to hold on; and, after six hours of disturbed rest, all
+hands were again set to work to get the Fury's anchors, cables,
+rudder, and spars on board, these being absolutely necessary for
+her equipment, should we be able to get her out. At two P.M. the
+crews were called on board to dinner, which they had not finished
+when several not very large masses of ice drove along the shore
+near us at a quick rate, and two or three successively coming in
+violent contact either with the Hecla or the bergs to which she
+was attached, convinced me that very little additional pressure
+would tear everything away, and drive both ships on shore. I saw
+that the moment had arrived when the Hecla could no longer be
+kept in her present situation with the smallest chance of safety,
+and therefore immediately got under sail, despatching Captain
+Hoppner with every individual, except a few for working the ship,
+to continue getting the things on board the Fury, while the Hecla
+stood off and on. Captain Hoppner had scarcely been an hour on
+board the Fury, and was busily engaged in getting the anchors and
+cables on board, when we observed some large pieces of not very
+heavy ice closing in with the land near her; and at twenty
+minutes past four P.M., being an hour and five minutes after the
+Hecla had cast off, I was informed by signal that the Fury was on
+shore. As the navigating of the Hecla, with only ten men on
+board, required constant attention and care, I could not at this
+time, with propriety, leave the ship to go on board the Fury. I
+therefore directed Captain Hoppner by telegraph, "if he thought
+nothing could be done at present, to return on board with all
+hands until the wind changed;" for this alone, as far as I could
+see the state of the Fury, seemed to offer the smallest chance of
+clearing the shore, so as to enable us to proceed with our work,
+or to attempt hauling the ship off the ground. About seven P.M.
+Captain Hoppner returned to the Hecla, accompanied by all hands,
+except an officer with a party at the pumps, reporting to me,
+that the Fury had been forced aground by the ice pressing on the
+masses lying near her, and bringing home, if not breaking, the
+seaward anchor, so that the ship was soon found to have sewed
+from two to three feet fore and aft.</p>
+<p>Finding, soon after Captain Hoppner's return, that the current
+swept the Hecla a long way to the southward while hoisting up the
+boats, and that more ice was drifting in towards the shore, I was
+under the painful necessity of recalling the party at the pumps,
+rather than incur the risk, now an inevitable one, of parting
+company with them altogether. Accordingly, Mr. Bird, with the
+last of the people, came on board at eight o'clock in the
+evening, having left eighteen inches water in the well, and four
+pumps being requisite to keep her free. In three hours after Mr.
+Bird's return, more than half a mile of closely packed ice
+intervened between the Fury and the open water in which we were
+beating, and before the morning this barrier had increased to
+four or five miles in breadth.</p>
+<p>We carried a press of canvass all night, with a fresh breeze
+from the north, to enable us to keep abreast of the Fury, which,
+on account of the strong southerly current, we could only do by
+beating at some distance from the land. The breadth of the ice
+in-shore continued increasing during the day, but we could see no
+end to the water in which we were beating, either to the
+southward or eastward. It fell quite calm in the evening, when
+the breadth of the ice in-shore had increased to six or seven
+miles. We did not, during the day, perceive any current setting
+to the southward, but in the course of the night we were drifted
+four or five leagues to the southwestward.</p>
+<p>A southerly breeze enabling us to regain our northing, we ran
+along the margin of the ice, but were led so much to the eastward
+by it, that we could approach the ship no nearer than before
+during the whole day. She appeared to us at this distance to have
+a much greater heel than when the people left her, which made us
+still more anxious to get near her. The latitude at noon was
+72&deg; 34' 57", making our distance from the Fury twelve miles,
+which, by the morning of the 25th, had increased to at least five
+leagues, the ice continuing to "pack" between us and the shore.
+The wind, however, now gradually drew round to the westward,
+giving us hopes of a change, and we continued to ply about the
+margin of the ice, in constant readiness for taking advantage of
+any opening that might occur. It favoured us so much by streaming
+off in the course of the day, that by seven P.M. we had nearly
+reached a channel of clear water, which kept open for seven or
+eight miles from the land. Being impatient to obtain a sight of
+the Fury, and the wind becoming light, Captain Hoppner and myself
+left the Hecla in two boats, and reached the ship at half past
+nine, or about three quarters of an hour before high water, being
+the most favourable time of tide for arriving to examine her
+condition.</p>
+<p>We found her heeling so much outward, that her main channels
+were within a foot of the water; and the large floe-piece, which
+was still alongside of her, seemed alone to support her below
+water, and to prevent her falling over still more considerably.
+The ship had been forced much farther up the beach than before,
+and she had now in her bilge above nine feet of water, which
+reached higher than the lower-deck beams. The first hour's
+inspection of the Fury's condition too plainly assured me that,
+exposed as she was, and forcibly pressed up upon an open and
+stony beach, her holds full of water, and the damage of her hull
+to all appearance and in all probability more considerable than
+before, without any adequate means of hauling her off to seaward,
+or securing her from the farther incursions of the ice, every
+endeavour of ours to get her off, or <i>if</i> got off, to float
+her to any known place of safety, would be at once utterly
+hopeless in itself, and productive of extreme risk to our
+remaining ship.</p>
+<p>Mr. Pulfer, the carpenter of the Fury, considered that it
+would occupy five days to clear the ship of water; that if she
+were got off, all the pumps would not be sufficient to keep her
+free, in consequence of the additional damage she seemed to have
+sustained; and that, if even hove down, twenty days' work, with
+the means we possessed, would be required for making her
+sea-worthy. Captain Hoppner and the other officers were therefore
+of opinion, that an absolute necessity existed for abandoning the
+Fury. My own opinion being thus confirmed as to the utter
+hopelessness of saving her, and feeling more strongly than ever
+the responsibility which attached to me of preserving the Hecla
+unhurt, it was with extreme pain and regret that I made the
+signal for the Fury's officers and men to be sent for their
+clothes, most of which, had been put on shore with the
+stores.</p>
+<p>The whole of the Fury's stores were of necessity left either
+on board her or on shore, every spare corner that we could find
+in the Hecla being now absolutely required for the accommodation
+of our double complement of officers and men, whose cleanliness
+and health could only be maintained by keeping the decks as clear
+and well ventilated as our limited space would permit. The spot
+where the Fury was left is in latitude 72&deg; 42' 30"; the
+longitude by chronometers is 91&deg; 50' 05"; the dip of the
+magnetic needle 88&deg; 19' 22"; and the variation 129&deg; 25'
+westerly.</p>
+<p>When the accident first happened to the Fury, I confidently
+expected to be able to repair her damages in good time to take
+advantage of a large remaining part of the navigable season in
+the prosecution of the voyage; and while the clearing of the ship
+was going on with so much alacrity, and the repairs seemed to be
+within the reach of our means and resources, I still flattered
+myself with the same hope. Those expectations were now at an end.
+With a twelvemonth's provisions for both ship's companies,
+extending our resources only to the autumn of the following year,
+it would have been folly to hope for final success, considering
+the small progress we had already made, the uncertain nature of
+this navigation, and the advanced period of the present season. I
+was therefore reduced to the only remaining conclusion, that it
+was my duty, under all the circumstances of the case, to return
+to England in compliance with the plain tenour of my
+instructions. As soon as the boats were hoisted up, therefore,
+and the anchor stowed, the ship's head was put to the
+northeastward, with a light air off the land, in order to gain an
+offing before the ice should again set in-shore.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name="c014_2"></a>
+<h2><a href="#c014">CHAPTER VII.</a></h2>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>Some Remarks upon the Loss of the Fury&mdash;And on the
+Natural History, &amp;c., of the Coast of North
+Somerset.&mdash;Arrive at Neill's Harbour.&mdash;Death of John
+Page.&mdash;Leave Neill's Harbour.&mdash;Recross the Ice in
+Baffin's Bay.&mdash;Heavy Gales.&mdash;Temperature of the
+Sea.&mdash;Arrival in England.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+
+<p>The accident which had now befallen the Fury, and which, when
+its fatal result was finally ascertained, at once put an end to
+every prospect of success in the main object of this voyage, is
+not an event which will excite surprise in the minds of those who
+are either personally acquainted with the true nature of this
+precarious navigation, or have had patience to follow me through
+the tedious and monotonous detail of our operations during seven
+successive summers. To any persons thus qualified to judge, it
+will be plain that an occurrence of this nature was at all times
+rather to be expected than otherwise, and that the only real
+cause for wonder has been our long exemption from such a
+catastrophe.</p>
+<p>The summer of 1825 was, beyond all doubt, the warmest and most
+favourable we had experienced since that of 1818. Not more than
+two or three days occurred, during the months of July and August,
+in which that heavy fall of snow took place which so commonly
+converts the aspect of nature in these regions, in a single hour,
+from the cheerfulness of summer into the dreariness of winter.
+Indeed, we experienced very little either of snow, rain, or fog:
+vegetation, wherever the soil allowed any to spring up, was
+extremely luxuriant and forward; a great deal of the old snow,
+which had laid on the ground during the last season, was rapidly
+dissolving even early in August; and every appearance of nature
+exhibited a striking contrast with the last summer, while it
+seemed evidently to furnish an extraordinary compensation for its
+rigour and inclemency.</p>
+<p>We have scarcely ever visited a coast on which so little of
+animal life occurs. For days together, only one or two seals, a
+single seahorse, and now and then a flock of ducks, were seen. I
+have already mentioned, however, as an exception to this scarcity
+of animals, the numberless kittiwakes which were flying about the
+remarkable spout of water; and we were one day visited, at the
+place where the Fury was left, by hundreds of white whales,
+sporting about in the shoal water close to the beach. No black
+whales were ever seen on this coast. Two reindeer were observed
+by the gentlemen who extended their walks inland; but this was
+the only summer in which we did not procure a single pound of
+venison. Indeed, the whole of our supplies obtained in this way
+during the voyage, including fish, flesh, and fowl, did not
+exceed twenty pounds per man.</p>
+<p>The weather continuing nearly calm during the 26th, and the
+ice keeping at the distance of several miles from the land, gave
+us an opportunity of clearing decks, and stowing the things
+belonging to the Fury's crew more comfortably for their
+accommodation and convenience. I now felt more sensibly than ever
+the necessity I have elsewhere pointed out, of both ships
+employed on this kind of service being of the same size, equipped
+in the same manner, and alike efficient in every respect. The way
+in which we had been able to apply every article for assisting to
+heave the Fury down, without the smallest doubt or selection as
+to size or strength, proved an excellent practical example of the
+value of being thus able, at a moment's warning, to double the
+means and resources of either ship in case of necessity. In fact,
+by this arrangement, nothing but a harbour to secure the ships
+was wanted to complete the whole operation in as effectual a
+manner as in a dockyard; for not a shore, or outrigger, or any
+other precaution was omitted, that is usually attended to on such
+occasions, and all as good and effective as could anywhere have
+been desired. The advantages were now scarcely conspicuous in the
+accommodation of the officers and men, who in a short time became
+little less comfortable than in their own ship; whereas, in a
+smaller vessel, comfort, to say nothing of health, would have
+been quite out of the question.</p>
+<p>A breeze from the northward freshening up strong on the 27th,
+we stretched over to the eastern shore of Prince Regent's Inlet,
+and this with scarcely any obstruction from ice. We could,
+indeed, scarcely believe this the same sea which, but a few weeks
+before, had been loaded with one impenetrable body of
+closely-packed ice from shore to shore, and as far as the eye
+could discern to the southward. Having a great deal of heavy work
+to do in the restowage of the holds, which could not well be
+accomplished at sea, and also a quantity of water to fill for our
+increased complement, I determined to take advantage of our
+fetching the entrance of Neill's Harbour to put in here, in order
+to prepare the ship completely for crossing the Atlantic. I was
+desirous also of ascertaining the depth of water in this place,
+which was wanting to complete Lieutenant Sherer's survey of it.
+Finding the harbour an extremely convenient one for our purpose,
+we worked the ship in, and at four P.M. anchored in thirteen
+fathoms, but afterward shifted out to eighteen, on a bottom of
+soft mud. Almost at the moment of our dropping the anchor, John
+Page, seaman of the Fury, departed this life: he had for several
+months been affected with a scrofulous disorder, and had been
+gradually sinking for some time.</p>
+<p>The funeral of the deceased being performed, we immediately
+commenced landing the casks and filling water; but,
+notwithstanding the large streams which, a short time before, had
+been running into the harbour, we could hardly obtain enough for
+our purpose by sinking a cask with holes in it. This work,
+together with the entire restowage of all the holds, occupied the
+whole of the 29th and 30th, during which time Lieutenant Sherer
+was employed in completing the survey of the harbour, more
+especially the soundings, which the presence of the ice had
+before prevented. These arrangements had just been completed,
+when the northeasterly wind died away, and was succeeded, on the
+morning of the 31st, by a light air from the northwest. As soon
+as we had sent to ascertain that the sea was clear of ice on the
+outside, and that the breeze which blew in the harbour was the
+true one, we weighed and stood out, and before noon had cleared
+the shoals at the entrance.</p>
+<p>Finding the wind at northwest in Prince Regent's Inlet, we
+were barely able to lie along the eastern coast. As the breeze
+freshened in the course of the day, a great deal of loose ice, in
+extensive streams and patches, came drifting down from the
+Leopold Islands, occasioning us some trouble in picking our way
+to the northward. By carrying a press of sail, however, we were
+enabled, towards night, to get into clearer water, and by four
+A.M. on the 1st of September, having beat to windward of a
+compact body of ice which had fixed itself on the lee shore about
+Cape York, we soon came into a perfectly open sea in Barrow's
+Strait, and were enabled to bear away to the eastward. We now
+considered ourselves fortunate in having got out of harbour when
+we did, as the ice would probably have filled up every inlet on
+that shore in a few hours after we left it.</p>
+<p>Being again favoured with a fair wind, we now stretched to the
+eastward, still in an open sea; and our curiosity was
+particularly excited to see the present situation of the ice in
+the middle of Baffin's Bay, and to compare it with that in 1824.
+This comparison we were enabled to make the more fairly, because
+the season at which we might expect to come to it coincided,
+within three or four days, with that in which we left it the
+preceding year. The temperature of the sea-water now increased to
+38&deg; soon after leaving the Sound, where it had generally been
+from 33&deg; to 35&deg;, whereas at the same season last year it
+rose no higher than 32&deg; anywhere in the neighbourhood, and
+remained even so high as that only for a very short time. This
+circumstance seemed to indicate the total absence of ice from
+those parts of the sea which had last autumn been wholly covered
+by it. Accordingly, on the 5th, being thirty miles beyond the
+spot in which we had before contended with numerous difficulties
+from ice, not a piece was to be seen, except one or two solitary
+bergs; and it was not till the following day, in latitude 72&deg;
+45', and longitude 64&deg; 44', or about one hundred and
+twenty-seven miles to the eastward of where we made our escape on
+the 9th of September, 1824, that we fell in with a body of ice so
+loose and open as scarcely to oblige us to alter our course for
+it. At three P.M. on the 7th, being in latitude 72&deg; 30', and
+longitude 60&deg; 05', and having, in the course of eighty miles
+that we had run through it, only made a single tack, we came to
+the margin of the ice, and got into an open sea on its eastern
+side. In the whole course of this distance, the ice was so much
+spread that it would not, if at all closely "packed," have
+occupied one third of the same space. There were at this time
+thirty-nine bergs in sight, and some of them certainly not less
+than two hundred feet in height.</p>
+<p>On the 8th, being in latitude 71&deg; 55', longitude 60&deg;
+30', and close to the margin of the ice, we fell in with the
+Alfred, Ellison, and Elizabeth, whalers, of Hull, all running to
+the northward, even at this season, to look for whales.</p>
+<p>As the whaling-ships were not homeward bound, having as yet
+had indifferent success in the fishery, I did not consider it
+necessary to send despatches by them. After an hour's
+communication with them, and obtaining such information of a
+public nature as could not fail to be highly interesting to us,
+we made sail to the southward; while we observed them lying to
+for some time after, probably to consult respecting the unwelcome
+information with which we had furnished them as to the whales,
+not one of which, by some extraordinary chance, we had seen since
+leaving Neill's Harbour. As this circumstance was entirely new to
+us, it seems not unlikely that the whales are already beginning
+to shift their ground, in consequence of the increased attacks
+which have been made upon them of late years in that
+neighbourhood.</p>
+<p>On the 10th we had an easterly wind, which, gradually
+freshening to a gale, drew up the Strait from the southward, and
+blew strong for twentyfour hours from that quarter. The wind
+moderated on the 11th, but on the following day another gale came
+on, which for nine or ten hours blew in most tremendous gusts
+from the same quarter, and raised a heavy sea. We happily came
+near no ice during the night, or it would scarcely have been
+possible to keep the ship clear of it. It abated after daylight
+on the 13th, but continued to blow an ordinary gale for twelve
+hours longer.</p>
+<p>On the 17th, at noon, we had passed to the southward of the
+Arctic Circle, and from this latitude to that of about 58&deg;,
+we had favourable winds and weather; but we remarked on this, as
+on several other occasions during this season, that a northerly
+breeze, contrary to ordinary observation, brought more moisture
+with it than any other. In the course of this run, we also
+observed more driftwood than we had ever done before, which I
+thought might possibly be owing to the very great prevalence of
+easterly winds this season driving it farther from the coast of
+Greenland than usual.</p>
+<p>On, the morning of the 24th, notwithstanding the continuance
+of a favourable breeze, we met, in the latitude of 58-1/2&deg;,
+so heavy a swell from the northeastward as to make the ship
+labour violently for four-and-twenty hours. On the morning of the
+25th we had again an easterly wind, which in a few hours reduced
+us to the close-reefed topsails and reefed courses. At eight P.M.
+it freshened to a gale, which brought us under the main-topsail
+and storm-staysails, and at seven the following morning it
+increased to a gale of such violence from N.E.b.N. as does not
+very often occur at sea in these latitudes. The gusts were at
+times so tremendous as to set the sea quite in a foam, and
+threatened to tear the sails out of the bolt-ropes. The wind
+gradually drew to the westward, with dry weather, after the gale
+began to abate, and at six A.M. we were enabled to bear up and
+run to the eastward with a strong gale at N.W.</p>
+<p>The indications of the barometer previous to and during this
+gale deserve to be noticed, because it is only about Cape
+Farewell that, in coming from the northward down Davis's Strait,
+this instrument begins to speak a language which has ever been
+intelligible to us <i>as a weather glass</i>. On the 24th,
+notwithstanding the change of wind from north to east, the
+mercury rose from 29.51 on that morning, to 29.72 at three A.M.
+the following day, but fell to 26.39 by nine P.M. with the strong
+but not violent breeze then blowing. After this it continued to
+descend very gradually, and had reached 28.84, which was its
+minimum, at three P.M. on the 26th, after which it continued to
+blow tremendously hard for eleven or twelve hours, the mercury
+uniformly, though slowly, ascending to 28.95 during that
+interval, and afterward to 29.73 as the weather became moderate
+and fine in the course of the t&auml;&auml;hree following
+days.</p>
+<p>After this gale the atmosphere seemed to be quite cleared, and
+we enjoyed a week of such remarkably fine weather as seldom
+occurs at this season of the year. We had then a succession of
+strong southerly winds, but we were enabled to continue our
+progress to the eastward, so as to make Mould Head, towards the
+northwest end of the Orkney Islands, at daylight on the 10th of
+October.</p>
+<p>After rounding the north end of the Orkneys on the 10th of
+October, we were, on the 12th, met by a strong southerly wind
+when off Peterhead. I therefore immediately landed (for the
+second time) at that place, and, setting off without delay for
+London, arrived at the Admiralty on the 16th.</p>
+<p>The Hecla arrived at Sheerness on the 20th of October, where
+she was detained for a few days for the purpose of Captain
+Hoppner, his officers, and ship's company being put upon their
+trial (according to the customary and indispensable rule in such
+cases) for the loss of the Fury&mdash;when, it is scarcely
+necessary to add, they received an honourable acquittal. The
+Hecla then proceeded to Woolwich, and was paid off on the 21st of
+November.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name='ACCOUNT'></a>
+<h2>ACCOUNT<br>
+ OF<br>
+ THE ESQUIMAUX</h2>
+<h3>OF<br>
+ MELVILLE PENINSULA AND THE ADJOINING ISLANDS:<br>
+MORE PARTICULARLY OF WINTER ISLAND AND IGLOOLIK.</h3>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<a name='b003_2'></a>
+<h2><a href='#b003'>ACCOUNT OF THE ESQUIMAUX.</a></h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>The number of individuals composing the tribe of Esquimaux
+assembled at Winter Island and Igloolik was two hundred and
+nineteen, of whom sixty-nine were men, seventy-seven women, and
+seventy-three children. Two or three of the men, from their
+appearance and infirmities, as well as from the age of their
+children, must have been near seventy; the rest were from twenty
+to about fifty. The majority of the women were comparatively
+young, or from twenty to five-and-thirty, and three or four only
+seemed to have reached sixty. Of the children, about one third
+were under four years old, and the rest from that age upward to
+sixteen or seventeen. Out of one hundred and fifty-five
+individuals who passed the winter at Igloolik, we knew of
+eighteen deaths and of only nine births.</p>
+<p>The stature of these people is much below that of Europeans in
+general. One man, who was unusually tall, measured five feet ten
+inches, and the shortest was only four feet eleven inches and a
+half. Of twenty individuals of each sex measured at Igloolik, the
+range was:</p>
+Men.&mdash;From 5 ft. 10 in. to 4 ft. 11 in.<br>
+<span style='margin-left: 1em;'>The average height, 5 ft. 5-1/3
+in.</span><br>
+Women.&mdash;From 5 ft. 3-1/2 in. to 4 ft. 8-3/4 in.<br>
+<span style='margin-left: 1em;'>The average height, 5 ft. 0-1/2
+in.</span><br>
+
+<p>The women, however, generally appear shorter than they really
+are, both from the unwieldy nature of their clothes, and from a
+habit, which they early acquire, of stooping considerably forward
+in order to balance the weight of the child they carry in their
+hood.</p>
+<p>In their figure they are rather well formed than otherwise.
+Their knees are indeed rather large in proportion, but their legs
+are straight, and the hands and feet, in both sexes, remarkably
+small. The younger individuals were all plump, but none of them
+corpulent; the women inclined the most to this last extreme, and
+their flesh was, even in the youngest individuals, quite loose
+and without firmness.</p>
+<p>Their faces are generally round and full, eyes small and
+black, nose also small and sunk far in between the cheek bones,
+but not much flattened. It is remarkable, that one man T=e-~a,
+his brother, his wife, and two daughters, had good Roman noses,
+and one of the latter was an extremely pretty young woman. Their
+teeth are short, thick, and close, generally regular, and in the
+young persons almost always white. The elderly women were still
+well furnished in this way, though their teeth were usually a
+good deal worn down, probably by the habit of chewing the
+sealskins for making boots.</p>
+<p>In the young of both sexes the complexion is clear and
+transparent, and the skin smooth. The colour of the latter, when
+divested of oil and dirt, is scarcely a shade darker than that of
+a deep brunette, so that the blood is plainly perceptible when it
+mounts into the cheeks. In the old folks, whose faces were much
+wrinkled, the skin appears of a much more dingy hue, the dirt
+being less easily, and, therefore, less frequently dislodged from
+them.</p>
+<p>By whatever peculiarities, however, they may in general be
+distinguished, they are by no means an ill-looking people; and
+there were among them three or four grown-up persons of each sex,
+who, when divested of their skin-dresses, their tattooing, and,
+above all, of their dirt, might have been considered
+pleasing-looking, if not handsome, people in any town in Europe.
+This remark applies more generally to the children also; several
+of whom had complexions nearly as fair as that of Europeans, and
+whose little bright black eyes gave a fine expression to their
+countenances.</p>
+<p>The hair, both of males and females, is black, glossy, and
+straight. The men usually wear it rather long, and allow it to
+hang about their heads in a loose and slovenly manner. The women
+pride themselves extremely on the length and thickness of their
+hair; and it was not without reluctance on their part, and the
+same on that of their husbands, that they were induced to dispose
+of any of it. Some of the women's hair was tolerably fine, but
+would not, in this respect, bear a comparison with, that of an
+Englishwoman. In both sexes it is full of vermin, which they are
+in the constant habit of picking out and eating; a man and his
+wife will sit for an hour together performing for each other that
+friendly office. The women have a comb, which, however, seems
+more intended for ornament than use, as we seldom or never
+observed them comb their hair. When a woman's husband is ill, she
+wears her hair loose, and cuts it off as a sign of mourning if he
+dies; a custom agreeing with that of the Greenlanders. The men
+wear the hair on the upper lip and chin from an inch to an inch
+and a half in length, and some were distinguished by a little
+tuft between the chin and lower lip.</p>
+<p>In winter every individual, when in the open air, wears two
+jackets, of which the outer one (<i>C=app~e t=egg~a</i>) has the
+hair outside, and the inner one (<i>At-t=e=ega</i>) next the
+body. Immediately on entering the hut the men take off their
+outer jacket, beat the snow from it, and lay it by. The upper
+garment of the females, besides being cut according to a regular
+and uniform pattern, and sewed with exceeding neatness, which is
+the case with all the dresses of these people, has also the flaps
+ornamented in a very becoming manner by a neat border of
+deerskin, so arranged as to display alternate breadths of white
+and dark fur. This is, moreover, usually beautified by a handsome
+fringe, consisting of innumerable long narrow threads of leather
+hanging down from it. This ornament is not uncommon also in the
+outer jackets of the men. When seal-hunting, they fasten up the
+tails of their jackets with a button behind.</p>
+<p>Their breeches, of which in winter they also wear two pairs,
+and similarly disposed as to the fur, reach below the knee, and
+fasten with a string drawn tight round the waist. Though these
+have little or no waistband, and do not come very high, the depth
+of the jackets, which considerably overlap them, serves very
+effectually to complete the covering of the body.</p>
+<p>Their legs and feet are so well clothed, that no degree of
+cold can well affect them. When a man goes on a sealing
+excursion, he first puts on a pair of deerskin boots
+(<i>All~ekt=eeg~a</i>) with the hair inside, and reaching to the
+knee, where they tie. Over these come a pair of shoes of the same
+material; next a pair of dressed sealskin boots, perfectly
+water-tight; and over all a corresponding pair of shoes, tying
+round the instep. These last are made just like the moccasin of a
+North American Indian, being neatly crimped at the toes, and
+having several serpentine pieces of hide sewn across the sole to
+prevent wearing. The water-tight boots and shoes are made of the
+skin of the small seal (<i>neitiek</i>), except the soles, which
+consist of the skin of the large seal (<i>oguk~e</i>); this last
+is also used for their fishing-lines. When the men are not
+prepared to encounter wet, they wear an outer boot of deerskin,
+with the hair outside.</p>
+<p>The inner boot of the women, unlike that of the men, is loose
+round the leg, coming as high as the knee-joint behind, and in
+front carried up, by a long pointed flap, nearly to the waist,
+and there fastened to the breeches. The upper boot, with the hair
+as usual outside, corresponds with the other in shape, except
+that it is much more full, especially on the outer side, where it
+bulges out so preposterously as to give the women the most
+awkward, bow-legged appearance imaginable. This superfluity of
+boot has probably originated in the custom, still common among
+the native women of Labrador, of carrying their children in them.
+We were told that these women sometimes put their children there
+to sleep; but the custom must be rare among them, as we never saw
+it practised. These boots, however, form their principal pockets,
+and pretty capacious ones they are. Here, also, as in jackets,
+considerable taste is displayed in the selection of different
+parts of the deerskin, alternate strips of dark and white being
+placed up and down the sides and front by way of ornament. The
+women also wear a moccasin (<i>Itteeg~eg~a</i>) over all in the
+winter time.</p>
+<p>To judge by the eagerness with which the women received our
+beads, especially small white ones, as well as any other article
+of that kind, we might suppose them very fond of personal
+ornament. Yet of all that they obtained from us in this way at
+Winter Island, scarcely anything ever made its appearance again
+during our stay there, except a ring or two on the finger, and
+some bracelets of beads round the wrist; the latter of these was
+probably considered as a charm of some kind or other. We found
+among them, at the time of our first intercourse, a number of
+black and white beads, disposed alternately on a string of sinew,
+and worn in this manner. They would also sometimes hang a small
+bunch of these, or a button or two, in front of their jackets and
+hair; and many of them, in the course of the second winter,
+covered the whole front of their jackets with the beads they
+received from us.</p>
+<p>Among their personal ornaments must be reckoned that mode of
+marking the body called tattooing, which, of the customs not
+essential to the comfort or happiness of mankind, is perhaps the
+most extensively practised throughout the world. Among these
+people it seems to be an ornament of indispensable importance to
+the women, not one of them being without it. The operation is
+performed about the age of ten, or sometimes earlier, and has
+nothing to do with marriage, except that, being considered in the
+light of a personal charm, it may serve to recommend them as
+wives. The parts of the body thus marked are their faces, arms,
+hands, thighs, and in some few women the breasts, but never the
+feet, as in Greenland. The operation, which, by way of curiosity,
+most of our gentlemen had practised on their arms, is very
+expeditiously managed by passing a needle and thread, the latter
+covered with lampblack and oil, under the epidermis, according to
+a pattern previously marked out upon the skin. Several stitches
+being thus taken at once, the thumb is pressed upon the part
+while the thread is drawn through, by which means the colouring
+matter is retained, and a permanent dye of a blue tinge imparted
+to the skin. A woman expert at this business will perform it very
+quickly and with great regularity, but seldom without drawing
+blood in many places, and occasioning some inflammation. Where so
+large a portion of the surface of the body is to be covered, it
+must become a painful as well as tedious process, especially as,
+for want of needles, they often use a strip of whalebone as a
+substitute. For those parts where a needle cannot conveniently be
+passed under the skin, they use the method by puncture, which is
+common in other countries, and by which our seamen frequently
+mark their hands and arms. Several of the men were marked on the
+back part of their hands; and with them we understood it to be
+considered as a <i>souvenir</i> of some distant deceased person
+who had performed it.</p>
+<p>In their winter habitations, I have before mentioned that the
+only materials employed are snow and ice; the latter being made
+use of for the windows alone. The work is commenced by cutting
+from a drift of hard and compact snow a number of oblong slabs,
+six or seven inches thick and about two feet in length, and
+laying them edgeways on a level spot, also covered with snow, in
+a circular form, and of a diameter from eight to fifteen feet,
+proportioned to the number of occupants the hut is to contain.
+Upon this as a foundation is laid a second tier of the same kind,
+but with the pieces inclining a little inward, and made to fit
+closely to the lower slabs and to each other by running a knife
+adroitly along the under part and sides. The top of this tier is
+now prepared for the reception of a third, by squaring it off
+smoothly with a knife, all which is dexterously performed by one
+man standing within the circle and receiving the blocks of snow
+from those employed in cutting them without. When the wall has
+attained a height of four or five feet, it leans so much inward
+as to appear as if about to tumble every moment; but the workmen
+still fearlessly lay their blocks of snow upon it, until it is
+too high any longer to furnish the materials to the builder in
+this manner. Of this he gives notice by cutting a hole close to
+the ground in that part where the door is intended to be, which
+is near the south side, and through this the snow is now passed.
+Thus they continue till they have brought the sides nearly to
+meet in a perfect and well-constructed dome, sometimes nine or
+ten feet high in the centre; and this they take considerable care
+in finishing, by fitting the last block or <i>keystone</i> very
+nicely in the centre, dropping it into its place from the
+outside, though it is still done by the man within. The people
+outside are in the mean time occupied in throwing up snow with
+the <i>p~oo=all~er=ay</i> or snow shovel, and in stuffing in
+little wedges of snow where holes have been accidentally
+left.</p>
+<p>The builder next proceeds to let himself out by enlarging the
+proposed doorway into the form of a Gothic arch, three feet high
+and two feet and a half wide at the bottom, communicating with
+which they construct two passages, each from ten to twelve feet
+long and from four to five feet in height, the lowest being that
+next the hut. The roofs of these passages are sometimes arched,
+but more generally made flat by slabs laid on horizontally. In
+first digging the snow for building the hut, they take it
+principally from the part where the passages are to be made,
+which purposely brings the floor of the latter considerably lower
+than that of the hut, but in no part do they dig till the bare
+ground appears.</p>
+<p>The work just described completes the walls of a hut, if a
+single apartment only be required; but if, on account of
+relationship, or from any other cause, several families are to
+reside under one roof, the passages are made common to all, and
+the first apartment (in that case made smaller) forms a kind of
+antechamber, from which you go through an arched doorway five
+feet high into the inhabited apartments. When there are three of
+these, which is generally the case, the whole building, with its
+adjacent passages, forms a tolerably regular cross.</p>
+<p>For the admission of light into the huts, a round hole is cut
+on one side of the roof of each apartment, and a circular plate
+of ice, three or four inches thick and two feet in diameter, let
+into it. The light is soft and pleasant, like that transmitted
+through ground glass, and it is quite sufficient for every
+purpose. When, after some time, these edifices become surrounded
+by drift, it is only by the windows, as I have before remarked,
+that they could be recognised as human habitations. It may,
+perhaps, then be imagined how singular is their external
+appearance at night, when they discover themselves only by a
+circular disk of light transmitted through the windows from the
+lamps within.</p>
+<p>The next thing to be done is to raise a bank of snow, two and
+a half feet high, all round the interior of each apartment,
+except on the side next the door. This bank, which is neatly
+squared off, forms their beds and fireplace, the former occupying
+the sides, and the latter the end opposite the door. The passage
+left open up to the fireplace is between three and four feet
+wide. The beds are arranged by first covering the snow with a
+quantity of small stones, over which are laid their paddles,
+tentpoles, and some blades of whalebone: above these they place a
+number of little pieces of network, made of thin slips of
+whalebone, and lastly a quantity of twigs of birch<a name=
+'FNanchor_008_8'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_008_8'><sup>[008]</sup></a> and of the <i>andromeda
+tetragona</i>. Their deerskins, which are very numerous, can now
+be spread without risk of their touching the snow; and such a bed
+is capable of affording not merely comfort, but luxurious repose,
+in spite of the rigour of the climate. The skins thus used as
+blankets are made of a large size and bordered, like some of the
+jackets, with a fringe of long, narrow slips of leather, in which
+state a blanket is called <i>k=eipik</i>.</p>
+<p>The fire belonging to each family consists of a single lamp,
+or shallow vessel of <i>lapis ollaris</i>, its form being the
+lesser segment of a circle. The wick, composed of dry moss rubbed
+between the hands till it is quite inflammable, is disposed along
+the edge of the lamp on the straight side, and a greater or
+smaller quantity lighted, according to the heat required or the
+fuel that can be afforded. When the whole length of this, which
+is sometimes above eighteen inches, is kindled, it affords a most
+brilliant and beautiful light, without any perceptible smoke or
+any offensive smell. The lamp is made to supply itself with oil,
+by suspending a long, thin slice of whale, seal, or seahorse
+blubber near the flame, the warmth of which causes the oil to
+drip into the vessel until the whole is extracted. Immediately
+over the lamp is fixed a rude and rickety framework of wood, from
+which their pots are suspended, and serving also to sustain a
+large hoop of bone, having a net stretched tight within it. This
+contrivance, called <i>Inn~et~at</i>, is intended for the
+reception of any wet things, and is usually loaded with boots,
+shoes, and mittens.</p>
+<p>The fireplace just described as situated at the upper end of
+the apartment, has always two lamps facing different ways, one
+for each family occupying the corresponding bedplace. There is
+frequently, also, a smaller and less-pretending establishment on
+the same model&mdash;lamp, pot, net, and all&mdash;in one of the
+corners next the door; for one apartment sometimes contains three
+families, which are always closely related; and no married woman,
+or even a widow without children, is without her separate
+fireplace.</p>
+<p>With all the lamps lighted and the hut full of people and
+dogs, a thermometer placed on the net over the fire indicated a
+temperature of 38&deg;; when removed two or three feet from this
+situation, it fell to 31&deg;; and, placed close to the wall,
+stood at 23&deg;, the temperature of the open air at the time
+being 25&deg; below <i>zero</i>. A greater degree of warmth than
+this produces extreme inconvenience by the dropping from the
+roofs. This they endeavour to obviate by applying a little piece
+of snow to the place from which a drop proceeds, and this
+adhering, is for a short time an effectual remedy; but for
+several weeks in the spring, when the weather is too warm for
+these edifices, and still too cold for tents, they suffer much on
+this account.</p>
+<p>The most important, perhaps, of the domestic utensils, next to
+the lamp already described, are the <i>=o=otk~o~os~e~eks</i>, or
+stone pots for cooking. These are hollowed out of solid <i>lapis
+ollaris</i>, of an oblong form, wider at the top than at the
+bottom all made in similar proportion; though of various sizes
+corresponding with the dimensions of the lamp which burns under
+it. The pot is suspended by a line of sinew at each end to the
+framework over the fire, and thus becomes so black on every side
+that the original colour of the stone is in no part discernible.
+Many of them were cracked quite across in several places, and
+mended by sewing with sinew or rivets of copper, iron, or lead,
+so as, with the assistance of a lashing and a due proportion of
+dirt, to render them quite watertight.</p>
+<p>Besides the ootkooseeks, they have circular and oval vessels
+of whalebone, of various sizes, which, as well as their ivory
+knives made out of a walrus's tusk, are precisely similar to
+those described on the western coast of Baffin's Bay in 1820.
+They have also a number of smaller vessels of skin sewed neatly
+together; and a large basket of the same material, resembling a
+common sieve in shape, but with the bottom close and tight, is to
+be seen in every apartment. Under every lamp stands a sort of
+"save-all," consisting of a small skin basket for catching the
+oil that falls over. Almost every family was in possession of a
+wooden tray very much resembling those used to carry butcher's
+meat in England, and of nearly the same dimensions, which we
+understood them to have procured by way of Noowook. They had a
+number of the bowls or cups already once or twice alluded to as
+being made out of the thick root of the horn of the musk-ox. Of
+the smaller part of the same horn they also form a convenient
+drinking-cup, sometimes turning it up artificially about one
+third from the point, so as to be almost parallel to the other
+part, and cutting it full of small notches as a convenience in
+grasping it. These or any other vessels for drinking they call
+<i>Imm=o=ochiuk</i>.</p>
+<p>Besides the ivory knives, the men were well supplied with a
+much more serviceable kind, made of iron, and called
+<i>panna</i>. The form of this knife is very peculiar, being
+seven inches long, two and a quarter broad, quite straight and
+flat, pointed at the end, and ground equally sharp at both edges;
+this is firmly secured into a handle of bone or wood about a foot
+long, by two or three iron rivets, and has all the appearance of
+a most destructive spearhead, but is nevertheless put to no other
+purpose than that of a very useful knife, which the men are
+scarcely ever without, especially on their sealing excursions.
+For these, and several knives of European form, they are probably
+indebted to an indirect communication with our factories in
+Hudson's Bay. The same may be observed of the best of their
+women's knives (<i>ooloo</i>), on one of which, of a larger size
+than usual, were the names of "Wild and Sorby." When of their own
+manufacture, the only iron part was a little narrow slip let into
+the bone and secured by rivets.</p>
+<p>Of the horn of the musk-ox they make also very good spoons,
+much like ours in shape; and I must not omit to mention their
+marrow spoons (<i>patt=ekniuk</i>, from <i>p=att~ek</i>, marrow),
+made out of long, narrow, hollowed pieces of bone, of which every
+housewife has a bunch of half a dozen or more tied together, and
+generally attached to her needle-case.</p>
+<p>For the purpose of obtaining fire, the Esquimaux use two lumps
+of common iron pyrites, from which sparks are struck into a
+little leathern case containing moss well dried and rubbed
+between the hands. If this tinder does not readily catch, a small
+quantity of the white floss of the seed of the ground-willow is
+laid above the moss. As soon as a spark has caught, it is gently
+blown till the fire has spread an inch around, when, the pointed
+end of a piece of oiled wick being applied, it soon bursts into a
+flame&mdash;the whole process having occupied perhaps two or
+three minutes.</p>
+<p>In enumerating the articles of their food, we might, perhaps,
+give a list of every animal inhabiting these regions, as they
+certainly will, at times, eat any one of them. Their principal
+dependance, however, is on the reindeer (<i>t=o=okto~o</i>);
+musk-ox (<i>=o=om~ingm~uk</i>), in the parts where this animal is
+found; whale (<i>=agg~aw~ek</i>); walrus (<i>=ei-~u-~ek</i>); the
+large and small seal (<i>=og~uke</i> and <i>n~eitiek</i>); and
+two sorts of salmon, the <i>=ew~ee-t=ar~oke</i> (<i>salmo
+alpinus?</i>) and <i>ichl=u~ow~oke</i>. The latter is taken by
+hooks in fresh-water lakes, and the former by spearing in the
+shoal water of certain inlets of the sea. Of all these animals,
+they can only procure in the winter the walrus and small seal
+upon this part of the coast; and these at times, as we have seen,
+in scarcely sufficient quantity for their subsistence.</p>
+<p>They certainly, in general, prefer eating their meat cooked,
+and, while they have fuel, they usually boil it; but this is a
+luxury, and not a necessary to them. Oily as the nature of their
+principal food is, yet they commonly take an equal proportion of
+lean to their fat, and, unless very hungry, do not eat it
+otherwise. Oil they seldom or never use in any way as a part of
+their general diet; and even our butter, of which they were fond,
+they would not eat without a due quantity of bread.<a name=
+'FNanchor_009_9'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_009_9'><sup>[009]</sup></a> They do not like salt meat
+as well as fresh, and never use salt themselves; but ship's pork
+or even a red herring did not come amiss to them. Of pea-soup
+they would eat as much as the sailors could afford to give them;
+and that word was the only one, with the exception of our names,
+which many of them ever learned in English. Among their own
+luxuries must be mentioned a rich soup called k=ay~o, made of
+blood, gravy, and water, and eaten quite hot.</p>
+<p>Their only drink is water; and of this, when they can procure
+it, they swallow an inconceivable quantity; so that one of the
+principal occupations of the women during the winter is the
+thawing of snow in the ootkooseeks for this purpose. They cut it
+into thin slices, and are careful to have it clean, on which
+account they will bring it from a distance of fifty yards from
+the huts. They have an extreme dislike to drinking water much
+above the temperature of 32&deg;. In eating their meals, the
+mistress of the family, having previously cooked the meat, takes
+a large lump out of the pot with her fingers, and hands it to her
+husband, who, placing a part of it between his teeth, cuts it off
+with a large knife in that position, and then passes the knife
+and meat together to his next neighbour. In cutting off a
+mouthful of meat, the knife passes so close to their lips, that
+nothing but constant habit could ensure them from the danger of
+the most terrible gashes; and it would make an English mother
+shudder to see the manner in which children five or six years old
+are at all times freely trusted with a knife to be used in this
+way.</p>
+<p>The length of one of the best of seven canoes belonging to
+these Esquimaux was twenty-five feet, including a narrow-pointed
+projection, three feet long at each end, which turns a little
+upward from the horizontal. The extreme breadth, which is just
+before the circular hole, was twenty-one inches, and the depth
+ten inches and a half. The plane of the upper surface of the
+canoe, except in the two extreme projections, bends downward a
+little from the centre towards the head and stern, giving it the
+appearance of what in ships is called "broken-backed." The
+gunwales are of fir, in some instances of one piece, three or
+four inches broad in the centre, and tapering gradually away
+towards the ends. The timbers, as well as the fore-and-aft
+connecting pieces, are of the same material, the former being an
+inch square, and sometimes so close together as to require
+between forty and fifty of them in one canoe: which, when thus
+"in frame," is one of the prettiest things of the kind that can
+be imagined. The skin with which the canoe is covered is
+exclusively that of the <i>neitiek</i>, prepared by scraping off
+the hair and fat with an <i>ooloo</i>, and stretching it tight on
+a frame over the fire; after which and a good deal of chewing, it
+is sown on by the women with admirable neatness and strength.
+Their paddles have a blade at each end, the whole length being
+nine feet and a half; the blades are covered with a narrow plate
+of bone round the ends to secure them from splitting; they are
+always made of fir, and generally of several pieces scarfed and
+woolded together.</p>
+<p>In summer they rest their canoes upon two small stones raised
+four feet from the ground, and in winter on a similar structure
+of snow; in one case to allow them to dry freely, and in the
+other to prevent the snowdrift from covering, and the dogs from
+eating them. The difficulty of procuring a canoe may be concluded
+from the circumstance of there being at Winter Island twenty men
+able to manage one, and only seven canoes among them. Of these,
+indeed, only three or four were in good repair; the rest being
+wholly or in part stripped of the skin, of which a good deal was
+occasionally cut off during the winter, to make boots, shoes, and
+mittens for our people. We found no <i>oomiak</i>, or woman's
+boat, among them, and understood that they were not in the habit
+of using them, which may in part be accounted for by their
+passing so much of the summer in the interior; they knew very
+well, however, what they were, and made some clumsy models of
+them for our people.</p>
+<p>In the weapons used for killing their game there is
+considerable variety, according to the animal of which they are
+in pursuit. The most simple of these is the <i>=o=on~ak</i>,
+which they use only for killing the small seal. It consists of a
+light staff of wood, four feet in length, having at one end the
+point of a narwhal's horn, from ten to eighteen inches long,
+firmly secured by rivets and wooldings; at the other end is a
+smaller and less effective point of the same kind. To prevent
+losing the ivory part in case of the wood breaking, a stout thong
+runs along the whole length of the wood, each end passing through
+a hole in the ivory, and the bight secured in several places to
+the staff. In this weapon, as far as it has yet been described,
+there is little art or ingenuity displayed; but a considerable
+degree of both in an appendage called <i>si=atk~o</i>, consisting
+of a piece of bone three inches long, and having a point of iron
+at one end, and at the other end a small hole or socket to
+receive the point of the oonak. Through the middle of this
+instrument is secured the <i>=allek</i>, or line of thong, of
+which every man has, when sealing, a couple of coils, each from
+four to six fathoms long, hanging at his back.</p>
+<p>When a seal is seen, the siatko is taken from a little
+leathern case, in which, when out of use, it is carefully
+enclosed, and attached by its socket to the point of the spear;
+in this situation it is retained by bringing the allek tight down
+and fastening it round the middle of the staff by what seamen
+call a "slippery-hitch," which may instantly be disengaged by
+pulling on the other end of the line. As soon as the spear has
+been thrown and the animal struck, the siatko is thus purposely
+separated; and being slung by the middle, now performs very
+effectually the important office of a barb, by turning at right
+angles to the direction in which it has entered the orifice. This
+device is in its principle superior even to our barb; for the
+instant any strain is put upon the line, it acts like a toggle,
+opposing its length to a wound only as wide as its own
+breadth.</p>
+<p>The <i>=akl~eak</i> or <i>akl=e=eg~a</i>, used for the large
+seal, has a blown bladder attached to the staff, for the purpose
+of impeding the animal in the water.</p>
+<p>The third and largest weapon is that called <i>katteelik</i>,
+with which the walrus and whale are attacked. The staff of this
+is not longer, but much stouter than that of the others,
+especially towards the middle, where there is a small shoulder of
+ivory securely lashed to it for the thumb to rest against, and
+thus to give additional force in throwing or thrusting the spear.
+The ivory point of this weapon is made to fit into a socket at
+the end of the staff, where it is secured by double thongs in
+such a manner as steadily to retain its position when a strain is
+put upon it in the direction of its length, but immediately
+disengaging itself with a sort of spring when any lateral strain
+endangers its breaking. The siatko is always used with this
+spear; and to the end of the allek, when the animal pursued is in
+open water, they attach a whole sealskin (<i>h~ow-w=ut-t~a</i>),
+inflated like a bladder, for the purpose of tiring it out in its
+progress through the water.</p>
+<p>They have a spear called <i>~ippoo</i> for killing deer in the
+water. They describe it as having a light staff and a small head
+of iron; but they had none of these so fitted in the winter. The
+<i>n=ug~uee</i>, or dart for birds, has, besides its two ivory
+prongs at the end of the staff, three divergent ones in the
+middle of it, with several small double barbs upon them turning
+inward. The spear for salmon or other fish, called
+<i>k=ak~eew~ei</i>, consists of a wooden staff, with a spike of
+bone or ivory, three inches long, secured at one end. On each
+side of the spike is a curved prong, much like that of a
+pitchfork, but made of flexible horn, which gives them a spring,
+and having a barb on the inner part of the point turning
+downward. Their fishhooks (<i>kakli=okio</i>) consist only of a
+nail crooked and pointed at one end, the other being let into a
+piece of ivory to which the line is attached. A piece of deer's
+horn or curved bone only a foot long is used as a rod, and
+completes this very rude part of their fishing-gear.</p>
+<p>Of their mode of killing seals in the winter I have already
+spoken in the course of the foregoing narrative, as far as we
+were enabled to make ourselves acquainted with it. In their
+summer exploits on the water, the killing of the whale is the
+most arduous undertaking which they have to perform; and one
+cannot sufficiently admire the courage and activity which, with
+gear apparently so inadequate, it must require to accomplish this
+business. Okotook, who was at the killing of two whales in the
+course of a single summer, and who described the whole of it
+quite <i>con amore</i>, mentioned the names of thirteen men who,
+each in his canoe, had assisted on one of these occasions. When a
+fish is seen lying on the water, they cautiously paddle up astern
+of him, till a single canoe, preceding the rest, comes close to
+him on one quarter, so as to enable the man to drive the
+<i>katteelik</i> into the animal with all the force of both arms.
+This having the <i>siatko</i>, a long <i>allek</i>, and the
+inflated sealskin attached to it, the whale immediately dives,
+taking the whole apparatus with him except the katteelik, which,
+being disengaged in the manner before described, floats to the
+surface, and is picked up by its owner. The animal reappearing
+after some time, all the canoes again paddle towards him, some
+warning being given by the sealskin buoy floating on the surface.
+Each man being furnished like the first, they repeat the blows as
+often as they find opportunity, till perhaps, every line has been
+thus employed. After pursuing him in this manner sometimes for
+half a day, he is at length so wearied by the resistance of the
+buoys, and exhausted by the loss of blood, as to be obliged to
+rise more and more often to the surface, when, by frequent wounds
+with their spears, they succeed in killing him, and tow their
+prize in triumph to the shore.</p>
+<p>In attacking the walrus in the water they use the same gear,
+but much more caution than with the whale, always throwing the
+<i>katteelik</i> from some distance, lest the animal should
+attack the canoe and demolish it with his tusks. The walrus is,
+in fact, the only animal with which they use any caution of this
+kind. They like the flesh better than that of the seal; but
+venison is preferred by them to either of these, and, indeed, to
+any other kind of meat.</p>
+<p>At Winter Island they carefully preserved the heads of all the
+animals killed during the winter, except two or three of the
+walrus, which we obtained with great difficulty. As the blood of
+the animals which they kill is all used as food of the most
+luxurious kind, they are careful to avoid losing any portion of
+it; for this purpose they carry with them on their excursions a
+little instrument of ivory called <i>t~oop=o=ot~a</i>, in form
+and size exactly resembling a "twenty-penny" nail, with which
+they stop up the orifice made by the spear, by thrusting it
+through the skin by the sides of the wound, and securing it with
+a twist.</p>
+<p>One of the best of their bows was made of a single piece of
+fir, four feet eight inches in length, flat on the inner side and
+rounded on the outer, being five inches in girth about the
+middle, where, however, it is strengthened on the concave side,
+when strung, by a piece of bone ten inches long, firmly secured
+by treenails of the same material. At each end of the bow is a
+knob of bone, or sometimes of wood covered with leather, with a
+deep notch for the reception of the string. The only wood which
+they can procure, not possessing sufficient elasticity combined
+with strength, they ingeniously remedy the defect by securing to
+the back of the bow, and to the knobs at each end, a quantity of
+small lines, each composed of a plat or "sinnet" of three sinews.
+The number of lines thus reaching from end to end is generally
+about thirty; but, besides these, several others are fastened
+with hitches round the bow, in pairs, commencing eight inches
+from one end, and again united at the same distance from the
+other, making the number of strings in the middle of the bow
+sometimes amount to sixty. These being put on with the bow bent
+somewhat the contrary way, produce a spring so strong as to
+require considerable force as well as knack in stringing it, and
+giving the requisite velocity to the arrow. The bow is completed
+by a woolding round the middle, and a wedge or two, here and
+there, driven in to tighten it. A bow in one piece is, however,
+very rare; they generally consist of from two to five pieces of
+bone of unequal lengths, secured together by rivets and
+treenails.</p>
+<p>The arrows vary in length from twenty to thirty inches,
+according to the materials that can be commanded. About two
+thirds of the whole length is of fir rounded, and the rest of
+bone let by a socket into the wood, and having a head of thin
+iron, or more commonly of slate, secured into a slit by two
+treenails. Towards the opposite end of the arrow are two
+feathers, generally of the spotted oval, not very neatly lashed
+on. The bowstring consists of from twelve to eighteen small lines
+of three-sinew sinnet, having a loose twist, and with a separate
+becket of the same size for going over the knobs at the end of
+the bow.</p>
+<p>We tried their skill in archery by getting them to shoot at a
+mark for a prize, though with bows in extremely bad order on
+account of the frost, and their hands very cold. The mark was two
+of their spears stuck upright in the snow, their breadth being
+three inches and a half. At twenty yards they struck this every
+time; at thirty, sent the arrows always within an inch or two of
+it; and at forty or fifty yards, I should think, would generally
+hit a fawn if the animal stood still. These weapons are perhaps
+sufficient to inflict a mortal wound at something more than that
+distance, for which, however, a strong arm would be required. The
+animals which they kill with the bow and arrow for their
+subsistence are principally the musk-ox and deer, and less
+frequently the bear, wolf, fox, hare, and some of the smaller
+animals.</p>
+<p>The reindeer are killed by the Esquimaux in great abundance in
+the summer season, partly by driving them from islands or narrow
+necks of land into the sea, and then spearing them from their
+canoes; and partly by shooting them from behind heaps of stones
+raised for the purpose of watching them, and imitating their
+peculiar bellow or grunt. Among the various artifices which they
+employ for this purpose, one of the most ingenious consists in
+two men walking directly <i>from</i> the deer they wish to kill,
+which almost always follows them. As soon as they arrive at a
+large stone, one of the men hides behind it with his bow, while
+the other continuing to walk on, soon leads the deer within range
+of his companion's arrows. They are also very careful to keep to
+leeward of the deer, and will scarcely go out after them at all
+when the weather is calm. For several weeks in the course of the
+summer, some of these people almost entirely give up their
+fishery on the coast, retiring to the banks of lakes several
+miles in the interior, which they represent as large and deep,
+and abounding with salmon, while the pasture near them affords
+good feeding to numerous herds of deer.</p>
+<p>The distance to which these people extend their inland
+migrations, and the extent of coast of which they possess a
+personal knowledge, are really very considerable. A great number
+of them, who were born at Amitioke and Igloolik, had been to
+<i>Noowook</i>, or nearly as far south as Chesterfield Inlet,
+which is about the <i>ne plus ultra</i> of their united knowledge
+in a southerly direction. Okotook and a few others of the Winter
+Island tribe had extended their peregrinations a considerable
+distance to the northward, over the large insular piece of land
+to which we have applied the name of Cockburn Island; which they
+described as high land, and the resort of numerous reindeer. By
+the information afterward obtained when nearer the spot, we had
+reason to suppose this land must reach beyond the seventy-second
+degree of latitude in a northerly direction; so that these people
+possess a personal knowledge of the Continent of America and its
+adjacent islands, from that parallel to Chesterfield Inlet in
+63-3/4&deg;, being a distance of more than five hundred miles
+reckoned in a direct line, besides the numerous turnings and
+windings of the coast along which they are accustomed to travel.
+Ewerat and some others had been a considerable distance up the
+Wager River; but no record had been preserved among them of
+Captain Middleton's visit to that inlet about the middle of the
+last century.</p>
+<p>Of the Indians they know enough by tradition to hold them in
+considerable dread, on account of their cruel and ferocious
+manners. When, on one occasion, we related the circumstances of
+the inhuman massacre described by Hearne, they crowded round us
+in the hut, listening with mute and almost breathless attention;
+and the mothers drew their children closer to them, as if to
+guard them from the dreadful catastrophe.</p>
+<p>The Esquimaux take some animals in traps, and by a very
+ingenious contrivance of this kind they caught two wolves at
+Winter Island. It consists of a small house built of ice, at one
+end of which a door, made of the same plentiful material, is
+fitted to slide up and down in a groove; to the upper part of
+this a line is attached, and, passing over the roof, is let down
+into the trap at the inner end, and there held by slipping an eye
+in the end of it over a peg of ice left for the purpose. Over the
+peg, however, is previously placed a loose grummet, to which the
+bait is fastened, and a false roof placed over all to hide the
+line. The moment the animal drags at the bait, the grummet slips
+off the peg, bringing with it the line that held up the door, and
+this, falling down, closes the trap and secures him,</p>
+<p>A trap for birds is formed by building a house of snow just
+large enough to contain one person, who closes himself up in it.
+On the top is left a small aperture, through which the man
+thrusts one of his hands to secure the bird the moment he alights
+to take away a bait of meat laid beside it. It is principally
+gulls that are taken thus; and the boys sometimes amuse
+themselves in this manner. A trap in which they catch foxes has
+been mentioned in another place.</p>
+<p>The sledges belonging to these Esquimaux were in general large
+and heavily constructed, being more adapted to the carriage of
+considerable burdens than to very quick travelling. They varied
+in size, being from six feet and a half to nine feet in length,
+and from eighteen inches to two feet in breadth. Some of those at
+Igloolik were of larger dimensions, one being eleven feet in
+length, and weighing two hundred and sixty-eight pounds, and two
+or three others above two hundred pounds. The runners are
+sometimes made of the right and left jaw-bones of a whale; but
+more commonly of several pieces of wood or bone scarfed and
+lashed together, the interstices being filled, to make all smooth
+and firm, with moss stuffed in tight, and then cemented by
+throwing water to freeze upon it. The lower part of the runner is
+shod with a plate of harder bone, coated with fresh-water ice to
+make it run smoothly, and to avoid wear and tear, both which
+purposes are thus completely answered. This coating is performed
+with a mixture of snow and fresh water about half an inch thick,
+rubbed over it till it is quite smooth and hard upon the surface,
+and this is usually done a few minutes before setting out on a
+journey. When the ice is only in part worn off, it is renewed by
+taking some water into the mouth, and spirting it over the former
+coating. We noticed a sledge which was extremely curious, on
+account of one of the runners and a part of the other being
+constructed without the assistance of wood, iron, or bone of any
+kind. For this purpose, a number of sealskins being rolled up and
+disposed into the requisite shape, an outer coat of the same kind
+was sewed tightly round them; this formed the upper half of the
+runner, the lower part of which consisted entirely of moss
+moulded while wet into the proper form, and being left to freeze,
+adhering firmly together and to the skins. The usual shoeing of
+smooth ice beneath completed the runner, which, for more than six
+months out of twelve, in this climate, was nearly as hard as any
+wood; and for winter use, no way inferior to those constructed of
+more durable materials. The cross-pieces which form the bottom of
+the sledges are made of bone, wood, or anything they can muster.
+Over these is generally laid a sealskin as a flooring, and in the
+summer time a pair of deer's horns are attached to the sledge as
+a back, which in the winter are removed, to enable them, when
+stopping, to turn the sledge up, so as to prevent the dogs
+running away with it. The whole is secured by lashings of thong,
+giving it a degree of strength combined with flexibility which
+perhaps no other mode of fastening could effect.</p>
+<p>The colour of the dogs varies from a white, through brindled,
+to black and white, or almost entirely black. Their hair in the
+winter is from three to four inches long; but, besides this,
+nature furnishes them, during this rigorous season, with a thick
+under coating of close, soft wool, which they begin to cast in
+the spring. While thus provided, they are able to withstand the
+most inclement weather without suffering from the cold; and, at
+whatever temperature the atmosphere may be, they require nothing
+but a shelter from the wind to make them comfortable, and even
+this they do not always obtain. They are also wonderfully enabled
+to endure the cold even on those parts of the body which are not
+thus protected; for we have seen a young puppy sleeping, with its
+bare paw laid on an ice-anchor, with the thermometer at-30&deg;,
+which, with one of our dogs, would have produced immediate and
+intense pain, if not subsequent mortification. They never bark,
+but have a long, melancholy howl like that of the wolf, and this
+they will sometimes perform in concert for a minute or two
+together. They are, besides, always snarling and fighting among
+one another, by which several of them are generally lame. When
+much caressed and well fed, they become quite familiar and
+domestic: but this mode of treatment does not improve their
+qualities as animals of draught. Being desirous of ascertaining
+whether these dogs are wolves in a state of domestication, a
+question which we understood to have been the subject of some
+speculation, Mr. Skeoch, at my request, made a skeleton of each,
+when the number of all the vertebrae was found to be the same in
+both,<a name='FNanchor_010_10'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_010_10'><sup>[010]</sup></a> and to correspond with
+the well-known anatomy of the wolf.</p>
+<p>When drawing a sledge, the dogs have a simple harness
+(<i>annoo</i>) of deer or seal skin going round the neck by one
+bight, and another for each of the fore legs, with a single thong
+leading over the back and attached to the sledge as a trace.
+Though they appear at first sight to be huddled together without
+regard to regularity, there is, in fact, considerable attention
+paid to their arrangement, particularly in the selection of a dog
+of peculiar spirit and sagacity, which is allowed, by a longer
+trace, to precede the rest as leader, and to which, in turning to
+the right or left, the driver usually addresses himself. This
+choice is made without regard to age or sex, and the rest of the
+dogs take precedence according to their training or sagacity, the
+least effective being put nearest the sledge. The leader is
+usually from eighteen to twenty feet from the fore part of the
+sledge, and the hindermost dog about half that distance, so that
+when ten or twelve are running together, several are nearly
+abreast of each other. The driver sits quite low on the fore part
+of the sledge, with his feet overhanging the snow on one side,
+and having in his hand a whip, of which the handle, made either
+of wood, bone, or whalebone, is eighteen inches, and the lash
+more than as many feet in length. The part of the thong next the
+handle is platted a little way down to stiffen it and give it a
+spring, on which much of its use depends; and that which composes
+the lash is chewed, by the women to make it flexible in frosty
+weather. The men acquire from their youth considerable expertness
+in the use of this whip, the lash of which is left to trail along
+the ground by the side of the sledge, and with which they can
+inflict a very severe blow on any dog at pleasure. Though the
+dogs are kept in training entirely by fear of the whip, and
+indeed without it would soon have their own way, its immediate
+effect is always detrimental to the draught of the sledge; for
+not only does the individual that is struck draw back and slacken
+his trace, but generally turns upon his next neighbour, and this,
+passing on to the next, occasions a general divergency,
+accompanied by the usual yelping and showing of teeth. The dogs
+then come together again by degrees, and the draught of the
+sledge is accelerated; but even at the best of times, by this
+rude mode of draught, the traces of one third of the dogs form an
+angle of thirty or forty degrees on each side of the direction in
+which the sledge is advancing. Another great inconvenience
+attending the Esquimaux method of putting the dogs to, besides
+that of not employing their strength to the best advantage, is
+the constant entanglement of the traces by the dogs repeatedly
+doubling under from side to side to avoid the whip, so that,
+after running a few miles, the traces always require to be taken
+off and cleared.</p>
+<p>In directing the sledge the whip acts no very essential part,
+the driver for this purpose using certain words, as the carters
+do with us, to make the dogs turn more to the right or left. To
+these a good leader attends with admirable precision, especially
+if his own name be repeated at the same time, looking behind over
+his shoulder with great earnestness, as if listening to the
+directions of the driver. On a beaten track, or even where a
+single foot or sledge mark is occasionally discernible, there is
+not the slightest trouble in guiding the dogs; for even in the
+darkest night and in the heaviest snowdrift, there is little or
+no danger of their losing the road, the leader keeping his nose
+near the ground, and directing the rest with wonderful sagacity.
+Where, however, there is no beaten track, the best driver among
+them makes a terribly circuitous course, as all the Esquimaux
+roads plainly show; these generally occupying an extent of six
+miles, when with a horse and sledge the journey would scarcely
+have amounted to five. On rough ground, as among hummocks of ice,
+the sledge would be frequently overturned or altogether stopped
+if the driver did not repeatedly get off, and, by lifting or
+drawing it to one side, steer it clear of those accidents. At all
+times, indeed, except on a smooth and well-made road, he is
+pretty constantly employed thus with his feet, which, together
+with his never-ceasing vociferations and frequent use of the
+whip, renders the driving of one of these vehicles by no means a
+pleasant or easy task. When the driver wishes to stop the sledge,
+he calls out "Wo, woa," exactly as our carters do; but the
+attention paid to his command depends altogether on his ability
+to enforce it. If the weight is small and the journey homeward,
+the dogs are not to be thus delayed; the driver is therefore
+obliged to dig his heels into the snow to obstruct their
+progress; and, having thus succeeded in stopping them, he stands
+up with one leg before the foremost crosspiece of the sledge,
+till, by means of laying the whip gently over each dog's head, he
+has made them all lie down. He then takes care not to quit his
+position; so that, should the dogs set off, he is thrown upon the
+sledge, instead of being left behind by them.</p>
+<p>With heavy loads the dogs draw best with one of their own
+people, especially a woman, walking a little way ahead; and in
+this case they are sometimes enticed to mend their pace by
+holding a mitten to the mouth, and then making the motion of
+cutting it with a knife, and throwing it on the snow, when the
+dogs, mistaking it for meat, hasten forward to pick it up. The
+women also entice them from the huts in a similar manner. The
+rate at which they travel depends, of course, on the weight they
+have to draw and the road on which their journey is performed.
+When the latter is level, and very hard and smooth, constituting
+what in other parts of North America is called "good sleighing,"
+six or seven dogs will draw from eight to ten hundred weight, at
+the rate of seven or eight miles an hour for several hours
+together, and will easily, under those circumstances, perform a
+journey of fifty or sixty miles a day; on untrodden snow,
+five-and-twenty or thirty miles would be a good day's journey.
+The same number of well-fed dogs, with a weight of only five or
+six hundred pounds (that of the sledge included), are almost
+unmanageable, and will, on a smooth road, run any way they please
+at the rate of ten miles an hour. The work performed by a greater
+number of dogs is, however, by no means in proportion to this;
+owing to the imperfect mode already described of employing the
+strength of these sturdy creatures, and to the more frequent
+snarling and fighting occasioned by an increase of numbers.</p>
+<p>In the summer, when the absence of snow precludes the use of
+sledges, the dogs are still made useful on journeys and hunting
+excursions, by being employed to carry burdens in a kind of
+saddle-bags laid across their shoulders. A stout dog thus
+accoutred will accompany his master, laden with a weight of about
+twenty or twenty-five pounds.</p>
+<p>The scent of the Esquimaux dogs is excellent; and this
+property is turned to account by their masters in finding the
+seal-holes, which these invaluable animals will discover entirely
+by the smell at a very great distance. The track of a single deer
+upon the snow will in like manner set them off at a full gallop
+when travelling, at least a quarter of a mile before they arrive
+at it, when they are with difficulty made to turn in any other
+direction; and the Esquimaux are accustomed to set them after
+those animals to hunt them down when already wounded with an
+arrow. In killing bears the dogs act a very essential part; and
+two or three of them, when led on by a man, will eagerly attack
+one of those ferocious creatures. An Esquimaux seldom uses any
+other weapon than his spear and <i>panna</i> in this encounter,
+for which the readiness of the dogs may be implied from the
+circumstance of the word "nen-nook" (bear) being often used to
+encourage them when running in a sledge. Indeed, the only animal
+which they are not eager to chase is the wolf, of which the
+greater part of them seem to have an instinctive dread, giving
+notice at night of their approach to the huts by a loud and
+continued howl. There is not one dog in twenty among them that
+will voluntarily, or, indeed, without a great deal of beating,
+take the water, if they think it is out of their depth, and the
+few that would do so were spoken of as extraordinary
+exceptions.</p>
+<p>The Esquimaux in general treat their dogs much as an unfeeling
+master does his slaves; that is, they take just as much care of
+them as their own interest is supposed to require. The bitches
+with young are in the winter allowed to occupy a part of their
+own beds, where they are carefully attended and fed by the women,
+who will even supply the young ones with meat and water from
+their mouths as they do their own children, and not unfrequently
+also carry them in their hoods to take care of them. It is
+probably on this account that the dogs are always so much
+attached to the women, who can at any time catch them or entice
+them from the huts when the men fail. Two females that were with
+young on board the Fury in the month of February, brought forth
+six and seven at a litter, and the former number were all
+females. Their feeding, which, both in summer and winter,
+principally consists of k=a~ow, or the skin and part of the
+blubber of the walrus, is during the latter season very
+precarious, their masters having then but little to spare. They
+therefore become extremely thin at that time of the year, and
+would scarcely be recognised as the same animals as when
+regularly fed in the summer. No wonder, therefore, that they will
+eat almost anything, however tough or filthy, and that neither
+whipping nor shouting will prevent their turning out of the road,
+even when going at full speed, to pick up whatever they espy.
+When at the huts they are constantly creeping in to pilfer what
+they can, and half the time of the people sitting there is
+occupied in vociferating their names, and driving them by most
+unmerciful blows out of the apartments. The dogs have no water to
+drink during the winter, but lick up some clean snow occasionally
+as a substitute; nor, indeed, if water be offered them, do they
+care about it, unless it happens to be oily. They take great
+pleasure in rolling in clean snow, especially after or during a
+journey, or when they have been confined in a house during the
+night. Notwithstanding the rough treatment which they receive
+from their masters, their attachment to them is very great, and
+this they display after a short absence by jumping up and licking
+their faces all over with extreme delight. The Esquimaux,
+however, never caress them, and, indeed, scarcely ever take any
+notice of them but when they offend, and they are not then
+sparing in their blows. The dogs have all names, to which they
+attend with readiness, whether drawing in a sledge or otherwise.
+Their names are frequently the same as those of the people, and
+in some instances are given after the relations of their masters,
+which seems to be considered an act of kindness among them. Upon
+the whole, notwithstanding the services performed by these
+valuable creatures, I am of opinion that art cannot well have
+done less towards making them useful, and that the same means in
+almost any other hands would be employed to greater
+advantage.</p>
+<p>In the disposition of these people, there was, of course,
+among so many individuals, considerable variety as to the minute
+points; but in the general features of their character, which
+with them are not subject to the changes produced by foreign
+intercourse, one description will nearly apply to all.</p>
+<p>The virtue which, as respected ourselves, we could most have
+wished them to possess, is honesty; and the impression derived
+from the early part of our intercourse was certainly in this
+respect a favourable one. A great many instances occurred, some
+of which have been related where they appeared even scrupulous in
+returning articles that did not belong to them; and this, too,
+when detection of a theft, or, at least, of the offender, would
+have been next to impossible. As they grew more familiar with us,
+and the temptations became stronger, they gradually relaxed in
+their honesty, and petty thefts were from time to time committed
+by several individuals, both male and female, among them.</p>
+<p>The bustle which any search for stolen goods occasioned at the
+huts was sufficient proof of their understanding the estimation
+in which the crime was held by us. Until the affair was cleared
+up, they would affect great readiness to show every article which
+they had got from the ships, repeating the name of the donor with
+great warmth, as if offended at our suspicions, yet with a half
+smile on their countenance at our supposed credulity in believing
+them. There was, indeed, at all times, some, trick, and cunning
+in this show of openness and candour; and they would at times
+bring back some very trifling article that had been given them,
+tendering it as a sort of expiation for the theft of another much
+more valuable. When a search was making, they would invent all
+sorts of lies to screen themselves, not caring on whom besides
+the imputation fell; and more than once they directed our people
+to the apartments of others who were innocent of the event in
+question. If they really knew the offender, they were generally
+ready enough to inform against him, and this with an air of
+affected secrecy and mysterious importance; and, as if the
+dishonesty of another constituted a virtue in themselves, they
+would repeat this information frequently, perhaps for a month
+afterward, setting up their neighbour's offence as a foil to
+their own pretended honesty.</p>
+<p>In appreciating the character of these people for honesty,
+however, we must not fail to make allowance for the degree of
+temptation to which they were daily exposed, amid the boundless
+stores of wealth which our ships appeared to them to furnish. To
+draw a parallel case, we must suppose an European of the lower
+class suffered to roam about amid hoards of gold and silver; for
+nothing less valuable can be justly compared with the wood and
+iron that everywhere presented themselves to their view on board
+the ships. The European and the Esquimaux, who, in cases so
+similar, both resist the temptation to stealing, must be
+considered pretty nearly on a par in the scale of honesty; and,
+judging in this manner, the balance might possibly be found in
+favour of the latter, when compared with any similar number of
+Europeans taken at random from the lower class.</p>
+<p>In what has been hitherto said, regard has been had only to
+their dealings with <i>us</i>. In their transactions among
+themselves, there is no doubt that, except in one or two
+privileged cases, such as that of destitute widows, the strictest
+honesty prevails, and that, as regards the good of their own
+community, they are generally honest people. We have, in
+numberless instances, sent presents by one to another, and
+invariably found that they had been faithfully delivered. The
+manner in which their various implements are frequently left
+outside their huts is a proof, indeed, that robbery is scarcely
+known among them.</p>
+<p>In the barter of their various commodities, their dealings
+with us were fair and upright, though latterly they were by no
+means backward nor inexpert in driving a bargain. The absurd and
+childish exchanges which they at first made with our people
+induced them subsequently to complain that the Kabloonas had
+stolen their things, though the profit had eventually been a
+hundred-fold in their favour. Many such complaints were made,
+when the only fault in the purchaser had been excessive
+liberality, and frequently, also, as a retort, by way of warding
+off the imputation of some dishonesty of their own. A trick not
+uncommon with the women was to endeavour to excite the
+commiseration, and to tax the bounty of one person, by relating
+some cruel theft of this kind that had, as they said, been
+practised upon them by another. One day, after I had bought a
+knife of Togolat, she told Captain Lyon, in a most piteous tone,
+that <i>Parree</i> had stolen her last <i>ooloo</i>, that she did
+not know what to do without one, and at length, coming to the
+point, begged him to give her one. Presently after this, her
+husband coming in and asking for something to eat, she handed him
+some meat, accompanied by a very fine ooloo. Her son, being thus
+reminded of eating, made the same request, upon which a second
+knife was produced, and immediately after a third of the same
+kind for herself. Captain Lyon, having amused himself in watching
+these proceedings, which so well confirmed the truth of the
+proverb, that certain people ought to have good memories, now
+took the knives, one by one, out of their hands, and, holding
+them up to Togolat, asked her if Parree had not stolen her last
+ooloo. A hearty laugh all round was the only notice taken by them
+of this direct detection of the deceit.</p>
+<p>The confidence which they really placed in us was daily and
+hourly evinced by their leaving their fishing gear stuck in the
+snow all round the ships; and not a single instance occurred, to
+my knowledge, of any theft committed on their property. The
+licking of the articles received from us was not so common with
+them as with Esquimaux in general, and this practice was latterly
+almost entirely left off by them.</p>
+<p>Among the unfavourable traits in their character must be
+reckoned an extreme disposition to envy, which displayed itself
+on various occasions during our intercourse with them. If we had
+made any presents in one hut, the inmates of the next would not
+fail to tell us of it, accompanying their remarks with some
+satirical observations, too unequivocally expressed to be
+mistaken, and generally by some stroke of irony directed against
+the favoured person. If any individual with whom we had been
+intimate happened to be implicated in a theft, the circumstance
+became a subject of satisfaction too manifest to be repressed,
+and we were told of it with expressions of the most triumphant
+exultation on every occasion. It was, indeed, curious, though
+ridiculous, to observe that, even among these simple people, and
+even in this obscure corner of the globe, that little gossip and
+scandal so commonly practised in small societies among us were
+very frequently displayed. This was especially the case with the
+women, of whom it was not uncommon to see a group sitting in a
+hut for hours together, each relating her <i>quota</i> of
+information, now and then mimicking the persons of whom they
+spoke, and interlarding their stories with jokes evidently at the
+expense of their absent neighbours, though to their own infinite
+amusement.</p>
+<p>I have already, in the course of the foregoing narrative,
+hinted at the want of gratitude evinced by these people in their
+transactions with us. Some exceptions, for they were only
+exceptions, and rare ones, to this rule, have been mentioned as
+they occurred; but in general, however considerable the benefit
+conferred, it was forgotten in a day; and this forgetfulness was
+not unfrequently aggravated by their giving out that their
+benefactor had been so shabby as to make them no present at all.
+Even those individuals who, either from good behaviour or
+superior intelligence, had been most noticed by us, and
+particularly such as had slept on board the ships, and whether in
+health or sickness had received the most friendly treatment from
+everybody, were in general just as indifferent as the rest; and I
+do not believe that any one among them would have gone half a
+mile out of his road, or have sacrificed the most trivial
+self-gratification to serve us. Okotook and Iligliuk, whom I had
+most loaded with presents, and who had never offered me a single
+free gift in return, put into my hand, at the time of their first
+removal from Winter Island, a dirty, crooked model of a spear, so
+shabbily constructed that it had probably been already refused as
+an article of barter by many of the ship's company. On my
+accepting this, from an unwillingness to affront them, they were
+uneasy and dissatisfied till I had given them something in
+return, though their hands were full of the presents which I had
+just made them. Selfishness is, in fact, almost without
+exception, their universal characteristic, and the mainspring of
+all their actions, and that, too, of a kind the most direct and
+unamiable that can well be imagined.</p>
+<p>In the few opportunities we had of putting their hospitality
+to the test, we had every reason to be pleased with them. Both as
+to food and accommodation, the best they had were always at our
+service; and their attention, both in kind and degree, was
+everything that hospitality and even good-breeding could dictate.
+The kindly offices of drying and mending our clothes, cooking our
+provision, and thawing snow for our drink, were performed by the
+women with an obliging cheerfulness which we shall not easily
+forget, and which commanded its due share of our admiration and
+esteem. While thus their guest, I have passed an evening not only
+with comfort, but with extreme gratification; for, with the women
+working and singing, their husbands quietly mending their lines,
+the children playing before the door, and the pot boiling over
+the blaze of a cheerful lamp, one might well forget for the time
+that an Esquimaux hut was the scene of this domestic comfort and
+tranquillity; and I can safely affirm with Cartwright,<a name=
+'FNanchor_011_11'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_011_11'><sup>[011]</sup></a> that, while thus lodged
+beneath their roof, I know no people whom I would more
+confidently trust, as respects either my person or my property,
+than the Esquimaux.</p>
+<p>The estimation in which women are held among these people is,
+I think, somewhat greater than is usual in savage life. In their
+general employments they are by no means the drudges that the
+wives of the Greenlander's are said to be; being occupied only in
+those cares which may properly be called domestic, and, as such,
+are considered the peculiar business of the women among the lower
+classes in civilized society. The wife of one of these people,
+for instance, makes and attends the fire, cooks the victuals,
+looks after the children, and is sempstress to her whole family;
+while her husband is labouring abroad for their subsistence. In
+this respect it is not even necessary to except their task Of
+cutting up the small seals, which is, in truth, one of the
+greatest luxuries and privileges they enjoy; and, even if it were
+esteemed a labour, it could scarcely be considered equivalent to
+that of the women in many of our own fishing-towns, where the
+men's business is at an end the moment the boat touches the
+beach. The most laborious of their tasks occur, perhaps, in
+making their various journeys, when all their goods and chattels
+are to be removed at once, and when each individual must
+undoubtedly perform a full share of the general labour. The women
+are, however, good walkers and not easily fatigued; for we have
+several times known a young woman of two-and-twenty, with a child
+in her hood, walk twelve miles to the ships and back again the
+same day, for the sake of a little bread-dust and a tin canister.
+When stationary in the winter, they have really almost a sinecure
+of it, sitting quietly in their huts, and having little or no
+employment for the greater part of the day. In short, there are
+few, if any people, in this state of society among whom the women
+are so well off. They always sit upon the beds with their legs
+doubled under them, and are uneasy in the posture usual with us.
+The men sometimes sit as we do, but more generally with their
+legs crossed before them.</p>
+<p>The women do not appear to be, in general, very prolific.
+Illumea indeed had borne seven children, but no second instance
+of an equal number in one family afterward came to our knowledge;
+three or four is about the usual number. They are, according to
+their own account, in the habit of suckling their children to the
+age of three years; but we have seen a child of five occasionally
+at the breast, though they are dismissed from the mother's hood
+at about the former age. It is not uncommon to see one woman
+suckling the child of another, while the latter happens to be
+employed in her other domestic occupations. They are in the
+habit, also, of feeding their younger children from their own
+mouths, softening the food by mastication, and then turning their
+heads round so that the infant in the hood may put its lips to
+theirs. The chill is taken from water for them in the same
+manner, and some fathers are very fond of taking their children
+on their knees and thus feeding them. The women are more desirous
+of having sons than daughters, as on the former must principally
+depend their support in old age.</p>
+<p>Twelve of the men had each two wives, and some of the younger
+ones had also two betrothed; two instances occurred of the father
+and son being married to sisters. The custom of betrothing
+children in their infancy is commonly practised here, in which
+respect these people differ from the natives of Greenland, where
+it is comparatively rare. A daughter of Arnaneelia, between two
+and three years old, had long been thus contracted to Okotook's
+son, a hero of six or seven, and the latter used to run about the
+hut calling his intended by the familiar appellation of
+<i>N~o~oll=e-~a</i> (wife), to the great amusement of the
+parents. When a man has two wives there is generally a difference
+of five or six years in their ages. The senior takes her station
+next the principal fire, which comes entirely under her
+management; and she is certainly considered in some respects
+superior to the other, though they usually live together in the
+utmost harmony. The men sometimes repudiate their wives without
+ceremony, in case of real or supposed bad behaviour as in
+Greenland, but this does not often occur. There was a
+considerable disparity of age between many of the men and their
+wives, the husband being sometimes the oldest by twenty years or
+more, and this also when he had never married any former wife. We
+knew no instance in which the number of a man's wives exceeded
+two, and, indeed, we had every reason to believe that the
+practice is never admitted among them. We met with a singular
+instance of two men having exchanged wives, in consequence merely
+of one of the latter being pregnant at the time when her husband
+was about to undertake a long journey.</p>
+<p>The authority of the husband seems to be sufficiently
+absolute, depending, nevertheless, in great measure on the
+dispositions of the respective parties. Iligliuk was one of those
+women who seem formed to manage their husbands; and we one day
+saw her take Okotook to task in a very masterly style, for having
+bartered away a good jacket for an old useless pistol, without
+powder or shot. He attempted at first to bluster in his turn, and
+with most women would probably have gained his point. But with
+Iligliuk this would not do; she saw at once the absurdity of his
+bargain, and insisted on his immediately cancelling it, which was
+accordingly done, and no more said about it. In general, indeed,
+the husband maintains his authority, and in several instances of
+supposed bad behaviour in a wife, we saw obedience enforced in a
+very summary manner. It is very rare, however, to see them
+proceed to this extremity; and the utmost extent of a husband's
+want of tenderness towards his wife consists in making her walk
+or lead the dogs, while he takes his own seat in the sledge and
+rides in comfort. Widows, as might be expected, are not so well
+off as those whose husbands are living, and this difference is
+especially apparent in their clothes, which are usually very
+dirty, thin, and ragged; when, indeed, they happen to have no
+near relatives, their fate, as we have already seen, is still
+worse than this.</p>
+<p>I fear we cannot give a very favourable account of the
+chastity of the women, nor of the delicacy of their husbands in
+this respect. As for the latter, it was not uncommon for them to
+offer their wives as freely for sale as a knife or a jacket. Some
+of the young men informed us that, when two of them were absent
+together on a sealing excursion, they often exchanged wives for
+the time, as a matter of friendly convenience; and, indeed,
+without mentioning any other instances of this nature, it may
+safely be affirmed, that in no country is prostitution carried to
+greater lengths than among these people. The behaviour of most of
+the women when their husbands were absent from the huts, plainly
+evinced their indifference towards them, and their utter
+disregard of connubial fidelity. The departure of the men was
+usually the signal for throwing aside restraint, which was
+invariably resumed on their return. For this event they take care
+to be prepared by the report of the children, one of whom is
+usually posted on the outside for the purpose of giving due
+notice.</p>
+<p>The affection of parents for their children was frequently
+displayed by these people, not only in the mere passive
+indulgence, and abstinence from corporeal punishment, for which
+Esquimaux have before been remarked, but by a thousand playful
+endearments also, such as parents and nurses practise in our own
+country. Nothing, indeed, can well exceed the kindness with which
+they treat their children, and this trait in their character
+deserves to be the more insisted on, because it is, in reality,
+the only very amiable one which they possess. It must be
+confessed, indeed, that the gentleness and docility of the
+children are such as to occasion their parents little trouble,
+and to render severity towards them quite unnecessary. Even from
+their earliest infancy they possess that quiet disposition,
+gentleness of demeanour, and uncommon evenness of temper, for
+which, in more mature age, they are for the most part
+distinguished. Disobedience is scarcely ever known; a word or
+even a look from a parent is enough; and I never saw a single
+instance of that frowardness and disposition to mischief which,
+with our youth, so often requires the whole attention of a parent
+to watch over and to correct. They never cry from trifling
+accidents, and sometimes not even from very severe hurts, at
+which an English child would sob for an hour. It is, indeed,
+astonishing to see the indifference with which, even as tender
+infants, they bear the numerous blows they accidentally receive,
+when carried at their mothers' backs.</p>
+<p>They are just as fond of play as any other young people, and
+of the same kind; only that while an English child draws a cart
+of wood, an Esquimaux of the same age has a sledge of whalebone;
+and for the superb baby-house of the former, the latter builds a
+miniature hut of snow, and begs a lighted wick from her mother's
+lamp to illuminate the little dwelling. Their parents make for
+them, as dolls, little figures of men and women, habited in the
+true Esquimaux costume, as well as a variety of other toys, many
+of them having some reference to their future occupations in
+life, such as canoes, spears, and bows and arrows. The drum or
+tambarine, mentioned by Crantz, is common among them, and used
+not only by the children, but by the grown-up people at some of
+their games. They sometimes serrate the edges of two strips of
+whalebone and whirl them round their heads, just as boys do in
+England to make the same peculiar humming sound. They will
+dispose one piece of wood on another, as an axis, in such a
+manner that the wind turns it round like the arms of a windmill;
+and so of many other toys of the same simple kind. These are the
+distinct property of the children, who will sometimes sell them,
+while their parents look on without interfering or expecting to
+be consulted.</p>
+<p>When not more than eight years old, the boys are taken by
+their fathers on their sealing excursions, where they begin to
+learn their future business; and even at that early age they are
+occasionally intrusted to bring home a sledge and dogs from a
+distance of several miles over the ice. At the age of eleven we
+see a boy with his water-tight boots and moccasins, a spear in
+his hand, and a small coil of line at his back, accompanying the
+men to the fishery, under every circumstance; and from this time
+his services daily increase in value to the whole tribe. On our
+first intercourse with them we supposed that they would not
+unwillingly part with their children, in consideration of some
+valuable present, but in this we afterward found that we were
+much mistaken. Happening one day to call myself Toolooak's
+<i>attata</i> (father), and pretend that he was to remain with me
+on board the ship, I received from the old man, his father, no
+other answer than what seemed to be very strongly and even
+satirically implied, by his taking one of our gentlemen by the
+arm and calling him <i>his</i> son; thus intimating that the
+adoption which he proposed was as feasible and as natural as my
+own.</p>
+<p>The custom of adoption is carried to very great lengths among
+these people, and served to explain to us several apparent
+inconsistencies with respect to their relationships. The custom
+owes its origin entirely to the obvious advantage of thus
+providing for a man's own subsistence in advanced life; and it is
+consequently confined almost without exception to the adoption of
+<i>sons</i>, who can alone contribute materially to the support
+of an aged and infirm parent. When a man adopts the son of
+another as his own, he is said to "<i>tego</i>," or take him; and
+at whatever age this is done (though it generally happens in
+infancy), the child then lives with his new parents, calls them
+father and mother, is sometimes even ignorant of any such
+transfer having been made, especially if his real parents should
+be dead; and whether he knows it or not, is not always willing to
+acknowledge any but those with whom he lives. The agreement seems
+to be always made between the fathers, and to differ in no
+respect from the transfer of other property, except that none can
+equal in value the property thus disposed of. The good sense,
+good fortune, or extensive claims of some individuals were
+particularly apparent in this way, from the number of sons they
+had adopted. Toolemak, deriving, perhaps, some advantage from his
+qualifications as Angetkook, had taken care to negotiate for the
+adoption of some of the finest male children of the tribe; a
+provision which now appeared the more necessary, from his having
+lost four children of his own, besides Noogloo, who was one of
+his <i>tego'd</i> sons. In one of the two instances that came to
+our knowledge of the adoption of a female child, both its own
+parents were still living, nor could we ascertain the motive for
+this deviation from the more general custom.</p>
+<p>In their behaviour to old people, whose age or infirmities
+render them useless, and, therefore, burdensome to the community,
+the Esquimaux betray a degree of insensibility bordering on
+inhumanity, and ill repaying the kindness of an indulgent parent.
+The old man Hikkeiera, who was very ill during the winter, used
+to lie day after day, little regarded by his wife, son, daughter,
+and other relatives, except that his wretched state constituted,
+as they well knew, a forcible claim upon our charity; and, with
+this view, it was sure to excite a whine of sympathy and
+commiseration whenever we visited or spoke of him. When, however,
+a journey of ten miles was to be performed over the ice, they
+left him to find his way with a stick in the best manner he
+could, while the young and robust ones were many of them drawn on
+sledges. There is, indeed, no doubt that, had their necessities
+or mode of life required a longer journey than he could thus have
+accomplished, they would have pushed on like the Indians, and
+left a fellow-creature to perish. It was certainly considered
+incumbent on his son to support him, and he was fortunate in that
+son's being a very good man; but a few more such journeys to a
+man of seventy would not impose this encumbrance upon him much
+longer. Illumea, the mother of several grown-up children, lived
+also in the same hut with her other relations. She did not,
+however, interfere, as in Greenland, with the management of her
+son's domestic concerns, though his wife was half an idiot. She
+was always badly clothed, and, even in the midst of plenty, not
+particularly well-fed, receiving everything more as an act of
+charity than otherwise; and she will probably be less and less
+attended to, in proportion as she stands more in need of
+assistance.</p>
+<p>The different families appear always to live on good terms
+with each other, though each preserves its own habitation and
+property as distinct and independent as any housekeeper in
+England. The persons living under one roof, who are generally
+closely related, maintain a degree of harmony among themselves
+which is scarcely ever disturbed. The more turbulent passions
+which, when unrestrained by religious principle, or unchecked by
+the dread of human punishment, usually create so much havoc in
+the world, seem to be very seldom excited in the breasts of these
+people, which renders personal violence or immoderate anger
+extremely rare among them; and one may sit in a hut for a whole
+day, and never observe an angry word or look, except in driving
+out the dogs. If they take an offence, it is more common for them
+to show it by the more quiet method of sulkiness, and this they
+now and then tried as a matter of experiment with us. Okotook,
+who was often in this humour, once displayed it to some of our
+gentlemen in his own hut, by turning his back and frequently
+repeating the expression "good-by," as a broad hint to them to go
+away. Toolooak was also a little given to this mood, but never
+retained it long, and there was no malice mixed with his
+displeasure. One evening that he slept on board the Fury, he
+either offended Mr. Skeoch, or thought that he had done so, by
+this kind of humour; at all events, they parted for the night
+without any formal reconciliation. The next morning Mr. Skeoch
+was awakened at an unusually early hour, by Toolooak's entering
+his cabin and taking hold of his hand to shake it, by way of
+making up the supposed quarrel. On a disposition thus naturally
+charitable, what might not Christian education and Christian
+principles effect? Where a joke is evidently intended, I never
+knew people more ready to join in it than these are. If ridiculed
+for any particularity of manner, figure, or countenance, they are
+sure not to be long behind-hand in returning it, and that very
+often with interest. If we were the aggressors in this way, some
+ironical observation respecting the <i>Kabloonas</i> was
+frequently the consequence; and no small portion of wit as well
+as irony was at times mixed with their raillery.</p>
+<p>In point of intellect as well as disposition, great variety
+was, of course, perceptible among the different individuals of
+this tribe; but few of them were wanting in that respect. Some,
+indeed, possessed a degree of natural quickness and intelligence
+which, perhaps, could hardly be surpassed in the natives of any
+country. Iligliuk, though one of the least amiable, was
+particularly thus gifted. When she really wished to develop our
+meaning, she would desire her husband and all the rest to hold
+their tongues, and would generally make it out while they were
+puzzling their heads to no purpose. In returning her answers, the
+very expression of her countenance, though one of the plainest
+among them, was almost of itself sufficient to convey her
+meaning; and there was, in these cases, a peculiarly decisive
+energy in her manner of speaking which was extremely interesting.
+This woman would, indeed, have easily learned anything to which
+she chose to direct her attention; and had her lot been cast in a
+civilized country instead of this dreary region, which serves
+alike to "freeze the genial current of the soul" and body, she
+would probably have been a very clever person. For want of a
+sufficient object, however, neither she nor any of her companions
+ever learned a dozen words of English, except our names, with
+which it was their interest to be familiar, and which, long
+before we left them, any child could repeat, though in their own
+style of pronunciation.</p>
+<p>Besides the natural authority of parents and husbands, these
+people appear to admit no kind of superiority among one another,
+except a certain degree of superstitious reverence for their
+<i>angetkooks</i>, and their tacitly following the counsel or
+steps of the most active seal-catcher on their hunting
+excursions. The word <i>nallegak</i>, used in Greenland to
+express "master," and "lord" in the Esquimaux translations of the
+Scriptures, they were not acquainted with. One of the young men
+at Winter Island appeared to be considered somewhat in the light
+of a servant to Okotook, living with the latter, and quietly
+allowing him to take possession of all the most valuable presents
+which he received from us. Being a sociable people, they unite in
+considerable numbers to form a settlement for the winter; but on
+the return of spring they again separate into several parties,
+each appearing to choose his own route, without regard to that of
+the rest, but all making their arrangements without the slightest
+disagreement or difference of opinion that we could ever
+discover. In all their movements, they seem to be actuated by one
+simultaneous feeling that is truly admirable.</p>
+<p>Superior as our arts, contrivances, and materials must
+unquestionably have appeared to them, and eager as they were to
+profit by this superiority, yet, contradictory as it may seem,
+they certainly looked upon us in many respects with profound
+contempt; maintaining that idea of self-sufficiency which has
+induced them, in common with the rest of their nation, to call
+themselves, by way of distinction, Innue, or mankind. One day,
+for instance, in securing some of the gear of a sledge, Okotook
+broke a part of it, composed of a piece of our white line, and I
+shall never forget the contemptuous sneer with which he muttered
+in soliloquy the word "Kabloona!" in token of the inferiority of
+our materials to his own. It is happy, perhaps, when people,
+possessing so few of the good things of this life, can be thus
+contented with the little allotted them.</p>
+<p>The men, though low in stature, are not wanting in muscular
+strength in proportion to their size, or in activity and
+hardiness. They are good and even quick walkers, and occasionally
+bear much bodily fatigue, wet, and cold, without appearing to
+suffer by it, much less to complain of it. Whatever labour they
+have gone through, and with whatever success in procuring game,
+no individual ever seems to arrogate to himself the credit of
+having done more than his neighbour for the general good. Nor do
+I conceive there is reason to doubt their personal courage,
+though they are too good-natured often to excite others to put
+that quality to the test. It is true, they will recoil with
+horror at the tale of an Indian massacre, and probably cannot
+conceive what should induce one set of men deliberately and
+without provocation to murder another. War is not their trade;
+ferocity forms no part of the disposition of the Esquimaux.
+Whatever manly qualities they possess are exercised in a
+different way, and put to a far more worthy purpose. They are
+fishermen, and not warriors; but I cannot call that man a coward
+who, at the age of one-and-twenty, will attack a polar bear
+single-handed, or fearlessly commit himself to floating masses of
+ice, which the next puff of wind may drift for ever from the
+shore.</p>
+<p>Of the few arts possessed by this simple people, some account
+has already been given in the description of their various
+implements. As mechanics, they have little to boast when compared
+with other savages lying under equal disadvantages as to
+scantiness of tools and materials. As carpenters, they can scarf
+two pieces of wood together, secure them with pins of whalebone
+or ivory, fashion the timbers of a canoe, shoe a paddle, and
+rivet a scrap of iron into a spear or arrow-head. Their principal
+tool is the knife (panna); and, considering the excellence of a
+great number which they possessed previous to our intercourse
+with them, the work they do is remarkably coarse and clumsy.
+Their very manner of holding and handling a knife is the most
+awkward that can be imagined. For the purpose of boring holes,
+they have a drill and bow so exactly like our own, that they need
+no farther description, except that the end of the drill handle,
+which our artists place against their breasts, is rested by these
+people against a piece of wood or bone held in their mouths, and
+having a cavity fitted to receive it. With the use of the saw
+they were well acquainted, but had nothing of this kind in their
+possession better than a notched piece of iron. One or two small
+European axes were lashed to handles in a contrary direction to
+ours, that is, to be used like an adze, a form which, according
+to the observation of a traveller<a name='FNanchor_012_12'></a><a
+href='#Footnote_012_12'><sup>[012]</sup></a> well qualified to
+judge, savages in general prefer. It was said that these people
+steamed or boiled wood, in order to bend it for fashioning the
+timbers of their canoes. As fishermen or seamen, they can put on
+a woolding or seizing with sufficient strength and security, and
+are acquainted with some of the most simple and serviceable knots
+in use among us. In all the arts, however, practised by the men,
+it is observable that the ingenuity lies in the principle, not in
+the execution. The experience of ages has led them to adopt the
+most efficacious methods, but their practice as handicrafts has
+gone no farther than absolute necessity requires; they bestow
+little labour upon neatness or ornament.</p>
+<p>In some of the few arts practised by the women there is much
+more dexterity displayed, particularly in that important branch
+of a housewife's business, sewing, which, even with their own
+clumsy needles of bone, they perform with extraordinary neatness.
+They had, however, several steel needles of a three-cornered
+shape, which they kept in a very convenient case, consisting of a
+strip of leather passed through a hollow bone, and having its
+ends remaining out, so that the needles which are stuck into it
+may be drawn in and out at pleasure. These cases were sometimes
+ornamented by cutting; and several thimbles of leather, one of
+which, in sewing, is worn on the first finger, are usually
+attached to it, together with a bunch of narrow spoons and other
+small articles liable to be lost. The thread they use is the
+sinew of the reindeer (<i>tooktoo =ew=all~o~o</i>), or, when they
+cannot procure this, the swallow-pipe of the <i>neiliek</i>. This
+may be split into threads of different sizes, according to the
+nature of their work, and is certainly a most admirable material.
+This, together with any other articles of a similar kind, they
+keep in little bags, which are sometimes made of the skin of
+birds' feet, disposed with the claws downward in a very neat and
+tasteful manner. In sewing, the point of the needle is entered
+and drawn through in a direction towards the body, and not from
+it or towards one side, as with our seamstresses. They sew the
+deerskins with a "round seam," and the water-tight boots and
+shoes are "stitched." The latter is performed in a very adroit
+and efficacious manner, by putting the needle only half through
+the substance of one part of the sealskin, so as to leave no hole
+for admitting the water. In cutting out the clothes, the women do
+it after one regular and uniform pattern, which probably descends
+unaltered from generation to generation. The skin of the deer's
+head is always made to form the <i>apex</i> of the hood, while
+that of the neck and shoulders comes down the back of the jacket;
+and so of every other part of the animal which is appropriated to
+its particular portion of the dress. To soften the sealskins of
+which the boots, shoes, and mittens are made, the women chew them
+for an hour or two together and the young girls are often seen
+employed in thus preparing the materials for their mothers. The
+covering of the canoes is a part of the women's business, in
+which good workmanship is especially necessary to render the
+whole smooth and water-tight. The skins, which are those of the
+<i>neitiek</i> only, are prepared by scraping off the hair and
+the fleshy parts with an <i>ooloo,</i> and stretching them out
+tight on a frame, in which state they are left over the lamps or
+in the sun for several days to dry; and after this they are well
+chewed by the women to make them fit for working. The dressing of
+leather and of skins in the hair, is an art which the women have
+brought to no inconsiderable degree of perfection. They perform
+this by first cleansing the skin from as much of the fat and
+fleshy matter as the <i>ooloo</i> will take off, and then rubbing
+it hard for several hours with a blunt scraper, called
+<i>si=ak~o~ot</i>, so as nearly to dry it. It is then put into a
+vessel containing urine, and left to steep a couple of days,
+after which a drying completes the process. Skins dressed in the
+hair are, however, not always thus steeped; the women, instead of
+this, chewing them for hours together till they are quite soft
+and clean. Some of the leather thus dressed looked nearly as well
+as ours, and the hair was as firmly fixed to the pelt; but there
+was in this respect a very great difference, according to the art
+or attention of the housewife. Dyeing is an art wholly unknown to
+them. The women are very expert at platting, which is usually
+done with three threads of sinew; if greater strength is
+required, several of these are twisted slackly together, as in
+the bowstrings. The quickness with which some of the women plat
+is really surprising; and it is well that they do so, for the
+quantity required for the bows alone would otherwise occupy half
+the year in completing it.</p>
+<p>It may be supposed that, among so cheerful a people as the
+Esquimaux, there are many games or sports practised; indeed, it
+was rarely that we visited their habitations without seeing some
+engaged in them. One of these our gentlemen saw at Winter Island,
+on an occasion when most of the men were absent from the huts on
+a sealing excursion, and in this Iligliuk was the chief
+performer. Being requested to amuse them in this way, she
+suddenly unbound her hair, platted it, tied both ends together to
+keep it out of her way, and then stepping out into the middle of
+the hut, began to make the most hideous faces that can be
+conceived, by drawing both lips into her mouth, poking forward
+her chin, squinting frightfully, occasionally shutting one eye,
+and moving her head from side to side as if her neck had been
+dislocated. This exhibition, which they call
+<i>=ay=ok~it-t=ak-poke</i>, and which is evidently considered an
+accomplishment that few of them possess in perfection, distorts
+every feature in the most horrible manner imaginable, and would,
+I think, put our most skilful horse-collar grinners quite out of
+countenance.</p>
+<p>The next performance consists in looking steadfastly and
+gravely forward, and repeating the words <i>t~ab=ak-tabak,
+k~eib=o-keibo, k~e-b=ang-~e-n=u-t~o-~e~ek, kebang-enutoeek,
+~am=at~am=a-amatama</i>, in the order in which they are here
+placed, but each at least four times, and always by a peculiar
+modulation of the voice, speaking them in pairs as they are
+coupled above. The sound is made to proceed from the throat in a
+way much resembling ventriloquism, to which art it is indeed an
+approach. After the last <i>amatama</i> Iligliuk always pointed
+with her finger towards her body, and pronounced the word
+<i>angetkook,</i> steadily retaining her gravity for five or six
+seconds, and then bursting into a loud laugh, in which she was
+joined by all the rest. The women sometimes produce a much more
+guttural and unnatural sound, repeating principally the word
+<i>=ikk~er~ee-ikkeree</i>, coupling them as before, and staring
+in such a manner as to make their eyes appear ready to burst out
+of their sockets with the exertion. Two or more of them will
+sometimes stand up face to face, and with great quickness and
+regularity respond to each other, keeping such exact time that
+the sound appears to come from one throat instead of several.
+Very few of the females are possessed of this accomplishment,
+which is called <i>pitkoo-she-r=ak-poke</i>, and it is not
+uncommon to see several of the younger females practising it. A
+third part of the game, distinguished by the word
+<i>keit=ik-poke</i>, consists only in falling on each knee
+alternately&mdash;a piece of agility which they perform with
+tolerable quickness, considering the bulky and awkward nature of
+their dress.</p>
+<p>The last kind of individual exhibition was still performed by
+Iligliuk, to whom in this, as in almost everything else, the
+other women tacitly acknowledged their inferiority, by quietly
+giving place to her on every occasion. She now once more came
+forward, and letting her arms hang down loosely and bending her
+body very much forward, shook herself with, extreme violence, as
+if her whole frame had been strongly convulsed, uttering at the
+same time, in a wild tone of voice, some of the unnatural sounds
+before mentioned.</p>
+<p>This being at an end, a new exhibition was commenced, in which
+ten or twelve women took a part, and which our gentlemen compared
+to blind-man's buff. A circle being formed, and a boy despatched
+to look out at the door of the hut, Iligliuk, still the principal
+actress, placed herself in the centre, and after making a variety
+of guttural noises for about half a minute, shut her eyes and ran
+about till she had taken hold of one of the others, whose
+business it then became to take her station in the centre, so
+that almost every woman in her turn occupied this post; and in
+her own peculiar way, either by distortion of countenance or
+other gestures, performed her part in the game. This continued
+three quarters of an hour; and, from the precaution of placing a
+look-out, who was withdrawn when it was over, as well as from
+some very expressive signs which need not here be mentioned,
+there is reason to believe that it is usually followed by certain
+indecencies, with which their husbands are not to be acquainted.
+Kaoongut was present, indeed, on this occasion, but his age
+seemed to render him a privileged person; besides which, his own
+wife did not join in the game.</p>
+<p>The most common amusement, however, and to which their
+husbands made no objection, they performed at Winter Island
+expressly for our gratification. The females being collected to
+the number of ten or twelve, stood in as large a circle as the
+hut would admit, with Okotook in the centre. He began by a sort
+of half howling, half singing noise, which appeared as if
+designed to call the attention of the women, the latter soon
+commencing the <i>Amna Aya</i> song hereafter described. This
+they continued without variety, remaining quite still while
+Okotook walked round within the circle; his body was rather bent
+forward, his eyes sometimes closed, his arms constantly moving up
+and down, and now and then hoarsely vociferating a word or two,
+as if to increase the animation of the singers, who, whenever he
+did this, quitted the chorus and rose into the words of the song.
+At the end of ten minutes they all left off at once, and after
+one minute's interval commenced a second act precisely similar
+and of equal duration; Okotook continuing to invoke their muse as
+before. A third act, which followed this, varied only in his
+frequently, towards the close, throwing his feet up before and
+clapping his hands together, by which exertion he was thrown into
+a violent perspiration. He then retired, desiring a young man
+(who, as we were informed, was the only individual of several
+then present thus qualified) to take his place in the centre as
+master of the ceremonies, when the same antics as before were
+again gone through. After this description it will scarcely be
+necessary to remark, that nothing can be poorer in its way than
+this tedious singing recreation, which, as well as everything in
+which dancing is concerned, they express by the word
+m~om=ek-poke. They seem, however, to take great delight in it;
+and even a number of men, as well as all the children, crept into
+the hut by degrees to peep at the performance.</p>
+<p>The Esquimaux women and children often amuse themselves with a
+game not unlike our "skip-rope." This is performed by two women
+holding the ends of a line, and whirling it regularly round and
+round, while a third jumps over it in the middle, according to
+the following order. She commences by jumping twice on both feet,
+then alternately with the right and left, and next four times
+with the feet slipped one behind the other, the rope passing once
+round at each jump. After this she performs a circle on the
+ground, jumping about half a dozen times in the course of it,
+which bringing her to her original position, the same thing is
+repeated as often as it can be done without entangling the line.
+One or two of the women performed this with considerable agility
+and adroitness, considering the clumsiness of their boots and
+jackets, and seemed to pride themselves, in some degree, on the
+qualification. A second kind of this game consists in two women
+holding a long rope by its ends, and whirling it round in such a
+manner, over the heads of two others standing close together near
+the middle of the bight, that each of these shall jump over it
+alternately. The art, therefore, which is indeed considerable,
+depends more on those whirling the rope than on the jumpers, who
+are, however, obliged to keep exact time, in order to be ready
+for the rope passing under their feet.</p>
+<p>The whole of these people, but especially the women, are fond
+of music, both vocal and instrumental. Some of them might be said
+to be passionately so, removing their hair from off their ears,
+and bending their heads forward, as if to catch the sounds more
+distinctly, whenever we amused them in this manner. Their own
+music is entirely vocal, unless, indeed, the drum and tambarine
+before mentioned be considered an exception.</p>
+<p>The voices of the women are soft and feminine, and, when
+singing with the men, are pitched an octave higher than theirs.
+They have most of them so far good ears, that, in whatever key a
+song is commenced by one of them, the rest will always join in
+perfect unison. After singing for ten minutes, the key had
+usually fallen a full semitone. Only two of them, of whom
+Iligliuk was one, could catch the tune as pitched by an
+instrument, which made it difficult with most of them to complete
+the writing of the notes; for if they once left off they were
+sure to recommence in some other key, though a flute or violin
+was playing at the time.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<p>During the season passed at Winter Island, which appears to
+have been a healthy one with the Esquimaux, we had little
+opportunity of becoming acquainted with the diseases to which
+they are subject. Our subsequent intercourse with a great number
+of these people at Igloolik having unfortunately afforded more
+frequent and fatal instances of sickness among them, I here
+insert Mr. Edwards's remarks on this subject.</p>
+<div class='blkquot'>
+<p>"Our first communication with these people at Winter Island
+gave us a more favourable impression of their general health than
+subsequent experience confirmed. There, however, they were not
+free from sickness. A catarrhal affection, in the month of
+February, became generally prevalent, from which they readily
+recovered after the exciting causes, intemperance and exposure to
+wet, had ceased to operate. A solitary instance of pleurisy also
+occurred, which probably might have ended fatally but for timely
+assistance. Our intercourse with them in the summer was more
+interrupted; but at our occasional meetings they were observed to
+be enjoying excellent health. It is probable that their certain
+supplies of food, and the nomade kind of life they lead in its
+pursuit during that season, are favourable to health. Nutrition
+goes on actively, and an astonishing increase of strength and
+fulness is acquired. Active diseases might now be looked for, but
+that the powers of nature are providentially exerted with
+effect.</p>
+<p>"The unlimited use of stimulating animal food, on which they
+are from infancy fed, induces at an early age a highly plethoric
+state of the vascular system. The weaker, over-distended vessels
+of the nose quickly yield to the increased impetus of the blood,
+and an active hemorrhage relieves the subject. As the same causes
+continue to be applied in excess at frequent intervals, and are
+followed by similar effects, a kind of vicarious hemorrhage at
+length becomes established by habit; superseding the intervention
+of art, and having no small share in maintaining a balance in the
+circulating system. The phenomenon is too constant to have
+escaped the observation of those who have visited the different
+Esquimaux people; a party of them has, indeed, rarely been seen,
+that did not exhibit two or three instances of the fact.</p>
+<p>"About the month of September, the approach of winter induced
+the Esquimaux at Igloolik to abandon their tents and to retire
+into their more established village. The majority were here
+crowded into huts of a permanent construction, the materials
+composing the sides being stones and the bones of whales, and the
+roofs being formed of skins, turf, and snow; the rest of the
+people were lodged in snow huts. For a while they continued very
+healthy; in fact, as long as the temperature of the interior did
+not exceed the freezing point, the vapours of the atmosphere
+congealed upon the walls, and the air remained dry and tolerably
+pure; besides, their hard-frozen winter stock of walrus did not
+at this time tempt them to indulge their appetites immoderately.
+In January the temperature suffered an unseasonable rise; some
+successful captures of walrus also took place; and these
+circumstances, combined perhaps with some superstitious customs
+of which we were ignorant, seemed the signal for giving way to
+sensuality. The lamps were accumulated, and the kettles more
+frequently replenished; and gluttony, in its most disgusting
+form, became for a while the order of the day. The Esquimaux were
+now seen wallowing in filth, while some, surfeited, lay stretched
+upon their skins, enormously distended, and with their friends
+employed in rolling them about, to assist the operations of
+oppressed nature. The roofs of their huts were no longer
+congealed, but dripping with wet and threatening speedy
+dissolution. The air was, in the bone huts, damp, hot, and beyond
+sufferance offensive with putrid exhalations from the decomposing
+relics of offals or other animal matter permitted to remain from
+year to year undisturbed in these horrible sinks.</p>
+<p>"What the consequences might have been had this state of
+affairs long continued, it is not difficult to imagine; but,
+fortunately for them, an early and gradual dispersion took place,
+so that by the end of January few individuals were left in the
+village. The rest, in divided bodies, established themselves in
+snow huts upon the sea-ice at some distance from the land. Before
+this change had been completed, disorders of an inflammatory
+character had appeared. A few went away sick, some were unable to
+remove, and others taken ill upon the ice, and we heard of the
+death of several about this period.</p>
+<p>"Their distance from the ships at once precluded any effectual
+assistance being rendered them at their huts, and their removal
+on board with safety; the complaints of those who died at the
+huts, therefore, did not come under observation. It appears,
+however, to have been acute inflammation of some of the abdominal
+viscera, very rapid in its career. In the generality, the disease
+assumed a more insidious and sub-acute form, under which the
+patient lingered for a while, and was then either carried off by
+a diarrhoea, or slowly recovered by the powers of nature. Three
+or four individuals, who, with some risk and trouble, were
+brought to the ships, we were providentially instrumental in
+recovering; but two others, almost helpless patients, were so far
+exhausted before their arrival, that the endeavours used were
+unsuccessful, and death was probably hastened by their
+removal.</p>
+<p>"That affection of the eyes known by the name of
+snow-blindness, is extremely frequent among these people. With
+them it scarcely ever goes beyond painful irritation, while among
+strangers inflammation is sometimes the consequence. I have not
+seen them use any other remedy besides the exclusion of light;
+but, as a preventive, a wooden eye-screen is worn, very simple in
+its construction, consisting of a curved piece of wood, six or
+seven inches long, and ten or twelve lines broad. It is tied over
+the eyes like a pair of spectacles, being adapted to the forehead
+and nose, and hollowed out to favour the motion of the eyelids. A
+few rays of light only are admitted through a narrow slit an inch
+long, cut opposite to each eye.</p>
+<p>"There are, upon the whole, no people more destitute of
+curative means than these. With the exception of the hemorrhage
+already mentioned, which they duly appreciate, and have been
+observed to excite artificially to cure headache, they are
+ignorant of any rational method of procuring relief. It has not
+been ascertained that they use a single herb medicinally. As
+prophylactics, they wear amulets, which are usually the teeth,
+bones, or hair of some animal, the more rare apparently the more
+valuable. In absolute sickness they depend entirely upon their
+Angekoks, who, they persuade themselves, have influence over some
+submarine deities who govern their destiny. The mummeries of
+these impostors, consisting in pretended consultations with their
+oracles, are looked upon with confidence, and their mandates,
+however absurd, superstitiously submitted to. These are
+constituted of unmeaning ceremonies and prohibitions generally
+affecting the diet, both in kind and mode, but never in quantity.
+Seal's flesh is forbidden, for instance, in one disease, that of
+the walrus in the other; the heart is denied to some, and the
+liver to others. A poor woman, on discovering that the meat she
+had in her mouth was a piece of fried heart instead of liver,
+appeared horror-struck; and a man was in equal tribulation at
+having eaten, by mistake, a piece of meat cooked in his wife's
+kettle.</p>
+<p>"Personal deformity from malconformation is uncommon; the only
+instance I remember being that of a young woman, whose utterance
+was unintelligibly nasal, in consequence of an imperfect
+development of the palatine bones leaving a gap in the roof of
+the mouth."</p>
+</div>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<p>Whatever may be the abundance sometimes enjoyed by these
+people, and whatever the maladies occasioned by their too
+frequent abuse of it, it is certain that they occasionally suffer
+very severely from the opposite extreme. A remarkably intelligent
+woman informed Captain Lyon, that two years ago some Esquimaux
+arrived at Igloolik from a place near <i>Akkoolee</i>, bringing
+information that, during a very grievous famine, one party of men
+had fallen upon another and killed them; and that they afterward
+subsisted on their flesh, while in a frozen state, but never
+cooked or even thawed it. This horrible account was soon after
+confirmed by Toolemak on board the Fury; and though he was
+evidently uneasy at our having heard the story, and conversed
+upon it with reluctance, yet, by means of our questions, he was
+brought to name, upon his fingers, five individuals who had been
+killed upon this occasion. Of the fact, therefore, there can be
+no doubt; but it is certain, also, that we ourselves scarcely
+regarded it with greater horror than those who related it; and
+the occurrence may be considered similar to those dreadful
+instances on record, even among civilized nations, of men
+devouring one another, in wrecks or boats, when rendered
+desperate by the sufferings of actual starvation.</p>
+<p>The ceremony of crying, which has before been mentioned as
+practised after a person's death, is not, however, altogether
+confined to those melancholy occasions, but is occasionally
+adopted in cases of illness, and that of no very dangerous kind.
+The father of a sick person enters the apartment, and, after
+looking at him a few seconds without speaking, announces by a
+kind of low sob his preparation for the coming ceremony. At this
+signal every other individual present composes his features for
+crying, and the leader of the chorus then setting up a loud and
+piteous howl, which lasts about a minute, is joined by all the
+rest, who shed abundant tears during the process. So decidedly is
+this a matter of form, unaccompanied by any feeling of sorrow,
+that those who are not relatives shed just as many tears as those
+that are; to which may be added, that in the instances which we
+saw there was no real occasion for crying at all. It must,
+therefore, be considered in the light of a ceremony of
+condolence, which it would be either indecorous or unlucky to
+omit.</p>
+<p>I have already given several instances of the little care
+these people take in the interment of their dead, especially in
+the winter season; it is certain, however, that this arises from
+some superstitious notion, and particularly from the belief that
+any heavy weight upon the corpse would have an injurious effect
+upon the deceased in a future state of existence; for even in the
+summer, when it would be an easy matter to secure a body from the
+depredations of wild animals, the mode of burial is not
+essentially different. The corpse of a child observed by
+Lieutenant Palmer, he describes "as being laid in a regular but
+shallow grave, with its head to the northeast. It was decently
+dressed in a good deerskin jacket, and a sealskin prepared
+without the hair was carefully placed as a cover to the whole
+figure, and tucked in on all sides. The body was covered with
+flat pieces of limestone, which, however, were so light that a
+fox might easily have removed them. Near the grave were four
+little separate piles of stones, not more than a foot in height,
+in one of which we noticed a piece of red cloth and a black silk
+handkerchief, in a second a pair of child's boots and mittens,
+and in each of the others a whalebone pot. The face of the child
+looked unusually clean and fresh, and a few days could only have
+elapsed since its decease."</p>
+<p>These Esquimaux do not appear to have any idea of the
+existence of One Supreme Being, nor indeed can they be said to
+entertain any notions on this subject which may be dignified with
+the name of Religion. Their superstitions, which are numerous,
+have all some reference to the preternatural agency of a number
+of <i>to=orng~ow</i> or spirits, with whom, on certain occasions,
+the <i>Angetkooks</i> pretend to hold mysterious intercourse, and
+who, in various and distinct ways, are supposed to preside over
+the destinies of the Esquimaux. On particular occasions of
+sickness or want of food, the Angetkooks contrive, by means of a
+darkened hut, a peculiar modulation of the voices and the
+uttering of a variety of unintelligible sounds, to persuade their
+countrymen that they are descending to the lower regions for this
+purpose, where they force the spirits to communicate the desired
+information. The superstitious reverence in which these wizards
+are held, and a considerable degree of ingenuity in their mode of
+performing their mummery, prevent the detection of the imposture,
+and secure implicit confidence in these absurd oracles. Some
+account of their ideas repecting death, and of their belief in a
+future state of existence, has already been introduced in the
+course of the foregoing pages, in the order of those occurrences
+which furnished us with opportunities of observing them.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<a name='b004_2'></a>
+<h2><a href='#b004'>NARRATIVE<br>
+ OF<br>
+ AN ATTEMPT TO REACH THE<br>
+ NORTH POLE,</a></h2>
+<br>
+<h3>IN BOATS FITTED FOR THE PURPOSE,<br>
+AND ATTACHED TO HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP HECLA,<br>
+<br>
+IN THE YEAR 1827.</h3>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<hr style='width: 65%;'>
+<h2>NARRATIVE</h2>
+<a name='a001'></a>
+<h3><a href='#a001_2'>INTRODUCTION.</a></h3>
+<br>
+
+<p>In April, 1826, I proposed to the Right Honourable Viscount
+Melville, first lord commissioner of the Admiralty, to attempt to
+reach the North Pole by means of travelling with sledge-boats
+over the ice, or through any spaces of open water that might
+occur. My proposal was soon afterward referred to the president
+and council of the Royal Society, who strongly recommended its
+adoption; and an expedition being accordingly directed to be
+equipped for this purpose, I had the honour of being appointed to
+the command of it; and my commission for his majesty's ship the
+Hecla, which was intended to carry us to Spitzbergen, was dated
+the 11th of November, 1826.</p>
+<p>Two boats were constructed at Woolwich, under my
+superintendence, after an excellent model suggested by Mr. Peake,
+and nearly resembling what are called "troop-boats," having great
+flatness of floor, with the extreme breadth carried well forward
+and aft, and possessing the utmost buoyancy, as well as capacity
+for stowage. Their length was twenty feet, and their extreme
+breadth seven feet. The timbers were made of tough ash and
+hickory, one inch by half an inch square, and a foot apart, with
+a "half-timber" of smaller size between each two. On the outside
+of the frame thus formed was laid a covering of Macintosh's
+water-proof canvass, the outer part being covered with tar. Over
+this was placed a plank of fir, only three sixteenths of an inch
+thick; then a sheet of stout felt; and, over all, an oak plank of
+the same thickness as the fir; the whole of these being firmly
+and closely secured to the timbers by iron screws applied from
+without. The following narrative will show how admirably the
+elasticity of this mode of construction was adapted to withstand
+the constant twisting and concussion to which the boats were
+subject.<a name='FNanchor_013_13'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_013_13'><sup>[013]</sup></a> On each side of the keel,
+and projecting considerably below it, was attached a strong
+"runner," shod with smooth steel, in the manner of a sledge, upon
+which the boat entirely rested while upon the ice; and, to afford
+some additional chance of making progress on hard and level
+fields, we also applied to each boat two wheels, of five feet
+diameter, and a small one abaft, having a swivel for steering by,
+like that of a Bath chair; but these, owing to the irregularities
+of the ice, did not prove of any service, and were subsequently
+relinquished. A "span" of hide-rope was attached to the forepart
+of the runners, and to this were affixed two strong ropes of
+horse-hair, for dragging the boat: each individual being
+furnished with a broad leathern shoulder-belt, which could
+readily be fastened to or detached from the drag-ropes. The
+interior arrangement consisted only of two thwarts; a locker at
+each end for the nautical and other instruments, and for the
+smaller stores; and a very slight framework along the sides for
+containing the bags of biscuit and our spare clothes. A bamboo
+mast nineteen feet long, a tanned duck sail, answering also the
+purpose of an awning, a spreat, one boat-hook, fourteen paddles,
+and a steer-oar, completed each boat's equipment.</p>
+<p>Two officers and twelve men (ten of the latter being seamen,
+and two marines) were selected for each boat's crew. It was
+proposed to take with us resources for ninety days; to set out
+from Spitzbergen, if possible, about the beginning of June; and
+to occupy the months of June, July, and August in attempting to
+reach the Pole and returning to the ship; making an average
+journey of thirteen miles and a half per day. Our provisions
+consisted of biscuit of the best wheaten flour; beef
+<i>pemmican</i>;<a name='FNanchor_014_14'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_014_14'><sup>[014]</sup></a> sweetened cocoa-powder,
+and a small proportion of rum, the latter concentrated to
+fifty-five per cent. above proof, in order to save weight and
+stowage. The proper instruments were provided, both by the
+Admiralty and the Board of Longitude, for making such
+observations as might be interesting in the higher latitudes, and
+as the nature of the enterprise would permit. Six pocket
+chronometers, the property of the public, were furnished for this
+service; and Messrs. Parkinson and Frodsham, with their usual
+liberality, intrusted to our care several other excellent
+watches, on trial, at their own expense.</p>
+<p>Annexed is a list of the different articles composing the
+equipment of the boats, together with the actual weight of
+each.</p>
+<br>
+
+<pre>
+                                                        Enter-      Endeav-
+                                                        prise       our
+                                                        lbs.        lbs.
+Boat .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .     . 1539        1542
+Bamboo mast, 1 spreat, 1 boat-hook, 1 steer-oar.     .   46-1/2      46-1/2
+Fourteen paddles .     .     .     .     .     .     .   41          41
+Sail (or awning) .     .     .     .     .     .     .   22          22
+Spare rope and line    .     .     .     .     .     .    6           6
+Small sounding line (750 fathoms in all) .     .     .    8          10
+Carpenters' tools, screws, nails, &amp;c.    .     .     .   10          10
+Copper and felt for repairs  .     .     .     .     .   19          19
+Four fowling pieces,with 2 bayonets.     .     .     .   15          15
+Small articles for guns.     .     .     .     .     .   --           4
+Ammunition .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .   17-1/2      17-1/2
+Instruments.     .     .     .     .     .     .     .   29          29
+Books.     .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .    7           5-1/2
+S {                                                  .
+p {Fur Suits for sleeping in (14 in each boat) .     .  162         162
+a {Thick-nailed boots (14 in each boat)  .     .     .   47          47
+r {Esquimaux do., with spare soles (14 in each       .
+e {  boat  .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .   33          33
+C {Flannel shirts (7 in each boat) .     .     .     .    8-3/4       8-3/4
+l {Guernsey frocks (do. do.) .     .     .     .     .   11-1/2      11-1/2
+o {Thick drawers   (do. do.)       .     .     .     .   14          14
+t {Mittens (28 in each boat) .     .     .     .     .    5           5
+h {Comforters (14 in each boat)    .     .     .     .    1           1
+e {Scotch caps (do. do.)     .     .     .     .     .    4           4
+s {
+A bag of small articles for the officers,            .
+  including soap, &amp;c., &amp;c.   .     .     .     .     .    4           4
+Do. do. for the men   do.    .     .     .     .     .   12          12
+Biscuit    .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .  628         628
+Pemmican   .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .  564         564
+Rum        .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .  180         180
+Cocoa powder, sweetened.     .     .     .     .     .   63          63
+Salt .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .   14          14
+Spirits of Wine  .     .     .     .     .     .     .   72          72
+Cooking apparatus.     .     .     .     .     .     .   --          20
+Tobacco    .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .   20          20
+Medicine chest                                       .   19          --
+Pannikins, knife, fork, and spoon (14 in each boat)  .    5           5
+Weighing-dials and measures                          .    2           2
+Various small articles for repairs, &amp;c., not mentioned
+above                                                    14          --
+Packages for provisions, clothes, &amp;c                    110         116
+                                                        ----       ----
+                                                    14)3753 1/4    3753 3/4
+                    Weight, per man                     268 lbs.
+Exclusive of four sledges, weighing 26 lbs. each.
+</pre>
+<p>I have not thought it necessary, in the course of this volume,
+to enter into any examination of the question respecting the
+approaches to the North Pole which had already been effected
+previous to our late attempt. I shall, therefore, only add that,
+after carefully weighing the various authorities, from which
+every individual interested in this matter is at liberty to form
+his own conclusions, my own impartial conviction, at the time of
+our setting out on this enterprise, coincided (with a single
+exception) with the opinion expressed by the Commissioners of
+Longitude in their memorial to the king, that "the progress of
+discovery had not arrived northward, according to any
+well-authenticated accounts, so far as eighty-one degrees of
+north latitude." The exception to which I allude is in favour of
+Mr. Scoresby, who states his having, in the year 1806, reached
+the latitude of 81&deg; 12' 42" by actual observation, and
+81&deg; 30' by dead reckoning. I therefore consider the latter
+parallel as, in all probability, the highest which had ever been
+attained prior to the attempt recorded in the following
+pages.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<br>
+
+<p>The Hecla being ready to proceed down the river, she was taken
+in tow, at ten A.M. on the 25th of March, 1827, by the Lightning
+steam-vessel; and having received and returned the cheers of the
+Greenwich pensioners, the children of the Naval Asylum, and of
+various ships in the river, she made fast to the moorings at
+Northfleet at three P.M. The following day was occupied in
+swinging the ship round on the various points of the compass, in
+order to obtain the amount of the deviation of the magnetic
+needle produced by the attraction of the ship's iron, and to fix
+Mr. Barlow's plate for correcting it.<a name=
+'FNanchor_015_15'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_015_15'><sup>[015]</sup></a> On the 3d of April the
+ship's company received three months' wages in advance, together
+with their river-pay; and on the following morning, at half past
+four, we weighed and made sail from the Nore.</p>
+<p>We had at this time remarkably fine weather for the season of
+the year, and such a continuance of southerly winds that we
+arrived off the island of Soroe, within which Hammerfest lies, on
+the 17th, without having had occasion to make a tack till we
+entered the fiord which forms the northern entrance.</p>
+<p>The wind becoming light from the southward, and very variable,
+we were occupied the whole of the 18th in beating up towards
+Hammerfest. In the evening a Lapland boat came on board, and one
+of the men undertook to pilot the ship to the anchorage, which,
+after beating all night against an ebb tide, we reached at three
+A.M. on the 19th. Finding that our reindeer had not arrived, I
+immediately despatched Lieutenant Crozier, in one of our own
+boats, to Alten, from whence they were expected&mdash;a distance
+of about sixty English miles. At the same time, we landed our
+observatories and instruments at Fugleness, near the
+establishment of Messrs. Crowe and Woodfall, the British
+merchants residing here; and Lieutenant Foster and myself
+immediately commenced our magnetic and other observations, which
+were continued during the whole of our stay here. We completed
+our supply of water, and obtained a small quantity of venison,
+with abundance of good fish (principally torsk and cod), and some
+milk. We also purchased a set of snow-shoes for our travelling
+party, together with the Lapland shoes of leather (called
+Kamooga<a name='FNanchor_016_16'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_016_16'><sup>[016]</sup></a>), which are the most
+convenient and comfortable for wearing with them; and we
+practised our people in the manner of walking in them in deep
+snow, which afforded them fine exercise and amusement.</p>
+<p>On the 23d, Lieutenant Crozier returned in the boat from
+Alten, and was followed the next day by Mr. Wooodfall, who
+brought with him eight reindeer for our use, together with a
+supply of moss for their provender (<i>cenomyce rangiferina</i>).
+As, however, the latter required a great deal of picking, so as
+to render it fit to carry with us over the ice, and as it was
+also necessary that we should be instructed in the manner of
+managing the deer, I determined on remaining a day or two longer
+for these purposes. Nothing can be more beautiful than the
+training of the Lapland reindeer. With a simple collar of skin
+round his neck, a single trace of the same material attached to
+the "pulk" or sledge, and passing between his legs, and one rein,
+fastened like a halter about his neck, this intelligent and
+docile animal is perfectly under the command of an experienced
+driver, and performs astonishing journeys over the softest snow.
+When the rein is thrown over on the off side of the animal, he
+immediately sets off at a full, trot, and stops short the instant
+it is thrown back to the near side. Shaking the rein over his
+back is the only whip that is required. In a short time after
+setting off, they appear to be gasping for breath, as if quite
+exhausted; but, if not driven too fast at first, they soon
+recover this, and then go on without difficulty. <a name=
+'a003'></a><a href='#a003_2'>The quantity of <i>clean</i> moss
+considered requisite for each deer per day is four pounds;</a>
+but they will go five or six days without provender, and not
+suffer materially. As long as they can pick up snow as they go
+along, which they like to eat quite clean, they require no water;
+and ice is to them a comfortable bed. It may well be imagined,
+with such qualifications, how valuable these animals seemed
+likely to prove to us; and the more we became accustomed, and, I
+may say, attached to them, the more painful became the idea of
+the necessity which was likely to exist, of ultimately having
+recourse to them as provision for ourselves.</p>
+<p>Our preparations were completed on the 27th, but the wind
+continuing fresh from the northwestern quarter in the offing, we
+had no prospect of making any progress till the morning of the
+29th, when we weighed at six A.M.</p>
+<p>On the 5th of May, being in latitude 73&deg; 30', and
+longitude 7&deg; 28' E., we met with the first straggling mass of
+ice, after which, in sailing about 110 miles in a N.N.W.
+direction, there was always a number of loose masses in sight;
+but it did not occur in continuous "streams" till the morning of
+the 7th, in latitude 74&deg; 55', a few miles to the eastward of
+the meridian of Greenwich. On the 10th several whalers were in
+sight, and Mr. Bennett, the master of the Venerable, of Hull,
+whom we had before met in Baffin's Bay in 1818, came on board.
+From him I learned that several of the ships had been in the ice
+since the middle of April, some of them having been so far to the
+westward as the island of Jan Mayen, and that they were now
+endeavouring to push to the northward. They considered the ice to
+offer more obstacles to the attainment of this object than it had
+done for many years past.<a name='FNanchor_017_17'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_017_17'><sup>[017]</sup></a> None of the ships had yet
+taken a single whale, which, indeed, they never expect to do to
+the southward of about 78&deg;.</p>
+<p>In the afternoon, after waiting for some time for the ice to
+open, we again entered it, in company with all the whalers, and
+by the following morning had succeeded in pushing about fifty
+miles farther to the northward, though not without some heavy
+blows in "boring" through the ice.</p>
+<p>At five A.M. on the 14th we passed Magdalena Bay, and by ten
+o'clock had arrived off Hakluyt's Headland, round which we hauled
+to the southeastward, to look, for anchorage in Smerenburg
+Harbour. In this, however, we were disappointed, the whole place
+being occupied by one unbroken floe of ice, still firmly attached
+to the land on each side. Here we made fast, though not without
+considerable difficulty; the wind, which was now freshening from
+the southward, blowing in such violent and irregular gusts off
+the high land that the ship was scarcely manageable. Walruses,
+dovekies, and eider-ducks were very numerous here, especially the
+former; and four reindeer came down upon the ice near the
+ship.</p>
+<p>We now prepared a quantity of provisions and other stores to
+land at Hakluyt's Headland, as a supply for my party on our
+return from the northward; so that, in case of the ship being
+obliged to go more to the southward, or of our not being able at
+once to reach her, we should be furnished with a few days'
+resources of every kind. Our intentions were, however, frustrated
+for the present; for we had scarcely secured our hawsers, when a
+hard gale came on from the southward, threatening every moment to
+snap them in two, and drive us from our anchorage. We held on for
+several hours, till, at nine P.M., some swell having set in upon
+the margin of the ice, it began to break off and drift away.
+Every possible exertion was instantly made to shift our stream
+cable farther in upon the floe; but it broke away so quickly as
+to baffle every endeavour, and at ten the ship went adrift, the
+wind blowing still harder than before. Having hauled in the
+hawsers and got the boats on board, we set the close-reefed
+topsails, to endeavour to hang to windward; but the wind blew in
+such tremendous gusts from the high land as almost to lay the
+ship on her beam-ends; so that we were obliged to reduce our
+canvass to the main topsail and stormsails, and let her drive to
+leeward.<a name='FNanchor_018_18'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_018_18'><sup>[018]</sup></a> The situation of the ship
+now appeared a very precarious one, the wind still blowing with
+unabated violence, and with every appearance of a continuance of
+stormy weather. Under these circumstances, it was the general
+opinion of the officers, as well as my own, that it was advisable
+to take advantage of the comparatively smooth water within the
+stream of ice, and to run the ship into the pack, rather than
+incur the risk of having to do the same thing in a heavy sea.
+This plan succeeded remarkably well; a tolerably smooth and open
+part of the margin being selected, the ship was forced into it at
+three A.M., when, after encountering a few severe blows from the
+heavy washed pieces which always occur near the sea-edge, she was
+gradually carried onward under all sail, and at four A.M. we got
+into a perfectly smooth and secure situation, half a mile within
+the margin of a "pack."</p>
+<p>It was impossible not to consider ourselves highly fortunate
+in having thus early, and with no great difficulty, succeeded in
+reaching the highest latitude to which it was our object to take
+the ship. But, from what we had already seen at Smerenburg, it
+was also impossible not to feel much anxiety as to the prospect
+of getting her into any secure harbour before the proper time of
+my departure to the northward should arrive. However, we could
+only wait patiently for the result of a few more days; and, in
+the mean time, everybody was busily employed in completing the
+arrangements for our departure, so that, if an opportunity did
+offer of securing the ship, we might have nothing else to attend
+to. Our deer were in good order, having been thriving well ever
+since they came on board; they make excellent sailors, and do not
+seem to mind bad weather, always lying down quite comfortable
+whenever there is any sea.</p>
+<p>In order to try what our chances were, at the present low
+temperature, of procuring water upon the ice without expense of
+fuel, we laid a black painted canvass cloth, and also a piece of
+black felt, upon the surface of the snow; the temperature of the
+atmosphere being from 18&deg; to 23&deg;. These substances had,
+in a couple of hours, sunk half an inch into the snow, but no
+water could be collected. I was desirous, also, of ascertaining
+whether any part of the real sea-ice was so entirely fresh when
+melted as to be drunk without injury or inconvenience. For this
+purpose we cut a block of ice from a large hummock, about ten
+feet high above the sea; and having broken, pounded, and melted
+it, without any previous washing, we found it, both by the
+hydrometer and by the chemical test (nitrate of silver),
+<i>more</i> free from salt than any which we had in our tanks,
+and which was procured from Hammerfest. I considered this
+satisfactory, because, in the autumn, the pools of water met with
+upon the ice generally become very brackish, in consequence of
+the sea-water being drawn up into them by capillary action as the
+ice becomes more "rotten" and porous; and we might, therefore,
+have to depend chiefly on melted ice for our daily supply.</p>
+<p>No change took place till the 21st, when, on the weather
+clearing up, we found that the open water we had left to the
+westward was now wholly closed up, and that there was none
+whatever in sight. It was now also so close in-shore, that on the
+22d, Lieutenant Ross, with a party of officers and men, succeeded
+in landing without difficulty. They found a small floe of level
+ice close to the beach, which appeared very lately formed.
+Walking up to a little conspicuous eminence near the eastern end
+of the beach, they found it to be composed of clay-slate, tinged
+of a brownish red colour. The few uncovered parts of the beach
+were strewed with smooth schistose fragments of the same mineral,
+and in some parts a quantity of thin slates of it lay closely
+disposed together in a vertical position. On the little hillock
+were two graves, bearing the dates of 1741 and 1762 on some of
+the stones which marked them, and a considerable quantity of fir
+driftwood lay upon the beach.</p>
+<p>I now clearly saw that there was, for the present, no
+reasonable prospect of our getting towards any harbour; and I
+could not but feel confident that, even if we did get to the
+entrance of any, some time must be occupied in securing the ship.
+It may be well imagined how anxious I had now become to delay no
+longer in setting out upon the main object of the expedition. I
+felt that a few days at the commencement of the season, short as
+it is in these regions, might be of great importance as to the
+result of our enterprise, while the ship seemed to be so far
+secure from any immediate danger as to justify my leaving her,
+with a reduced crew, in her present situation. The nature of the
+ice was, beyond all comparison, the most unfavourable for our
+purpose that I remember to have ever seen. It consisted only of
+loose pieces, scarcely any of them fifteen or twenty yards
+square; and when any so large did occur, their, margins were
+surrounded by the smaller ones, thrown up by the recent pressure
+into ten thousand various shapes, and presenting high and sharp
+angular masses at every other step. The men compared it to a
+stone-mason's yard, which, except that the stones were of ten
+times the usual dimensions, it indeed very much resembled. The
+only inducement to set out over such a road was the certainty
+that floes and fields lay beyond it, and the hope that they were
+not <i>far</i> beyond it. In this respect, indeed, I considered
+our present easterly position as a probable advantage, since the
+ice was much less likely to have been disturbed to any great
+extent northward in this meridian than to the westward clear of
+the land, where every southerly breeze was sure to be making
+havoc among it. Another very important advantage in setting off
+on this meridian appeared to me to be, that, the land of
+Spitzbergen lying immediately over against the ice, the latter
+could never drift so much or so fast to the southward as it might
+farther to the westward.</p>
+<p>Upon these grounds it was that I was anxious to make an
+attempt, at least, as soon as our arrangements could be
+completed; and the officers being of the same opinion as myself,
+we hoisted out the boats early in the morning of the 27th, and,
+having put the things into one of them, endeavoured, by way of
+experiment, to get her to a little distance from the ship. Such
+however, were the irregularities of the ice, that, even with the
+assistance of an additional party of men, it was obvious that we
+could not have gained a single mile in a day, and, what was still
+more important, not without almost certain and serious injury to
+the boats by their striking against the angular masses. Under
+these circumstances, it was but too evident to every one that it
+would have been highly imprudent to persist in setting out,
+since, if the ice, after all, should clear away, even in a week,
+so as to allow us to get a few miles nearer the main body, time
+would be ultimately saved by our delay, to say nothing of the
+wear and tear, and expense of our provisions. I was, therefore,
+very reluctantly compelled to yield to this necessity, and to
+order the things to be got on board again.</p>
+<p>Immediately after we had, on the 27th, proved experimentally
+the extreme difficulty of transporting our boats and stores over
+the ice which now surrounded us, I made up my mind to the very
+great probability there seemed to be of the necessity of adopting
+such alterations in our original plans as would accommodate them
+to these untoward circumstances at the outset. The boats forming
+the main impediment, not so much on account of their absolute
+weight as from the difficulty of managing so large a body upon a
+road of this nature, I made preparations for the possible
+contingency of our having to take only one, continuing the same
+number of men in our whole party. All that I saw reason to
+apprehend from having only a single boat on our outward journey,
+was some occasional delay in ferrying over spaces of water in two
+trips instead of one; but we considered that this would be much
+more than compensated by the increased rate at which we should go
+whenever we were upon the ice, as we expected to be nine days out
+of ten. The principal disadvantage, therefore, consisted in our
+not all being able to sleep in the boat, and this we proposed to
+obviate in the following manner.</p>
+<p>We constructed out of the Lapland snow-shoes fourteen sledges,
+each sledge consisting of two pairs well fastened together. Upon
+these we proposed dragging almost all the weight, so as to keep
+the boat nearly without any cargo in her, as we found by
+experiment that a man could drag about three hundred pounds on
+one of the sledges with more facility than he could drag the boat
+when his proportion did not exceed one hundred pounds. Upon these
+sledges we proposed lodging half our party alternately each
+night, placing them under the lee of the boat, and then
+stretching over them, as a sloped roof, a second awning, which we
+fitted for the purpose. Upon this plan we likewise could afford
+to make our boat considerably stronger, adding some stout iron
+knees to the supports of her runners, and increasing our store of
+materials for repairing her. The weight reduced by this
+arrangement would have been above two thousand pounds, without
+taking away any article conducive to our comfort, except the boat
+and her gear. I proposed to the officers and men who had been
+selected to accompany me this change in our equipment; and I need
+scarcely say that they all clearly saw the probable necessity of
+it, and cheerfully acquiesced in its adoption, if requisite.</p>
+<p>On the 29th I sent Lieutenants Foster and Crozier, with the
+greater part of the ship's company, and with a third or spare
+travelling-boat, to endeavour to land her on Red Beach, together
+with a quantity of stores, including provisions, as a deposite
+for us on our return from the northward, should it so happen, as
+was not improbable, that we should return to the eastward. It is
+impossible to describe the labour attending this attempt. Suffice
+it to say, that, after working for fourteen hours, they returned
+on board at midnight, having accomplished about four miles out of
+the six. The next day they returned to the boat, and, after
+several hours' exertion, landed her on the beach with the stores.
+What added to the fatigue of this service was the necessity of
+taking a small boat to cross pools of water on their return, so
+that they had to drag this boat both ways, besides that which
+they went to convey. Having, however, had an opportunity of
+trying what could be done upon a regular and level floe which lay
+close to the beach, everybody was of opinion, as I had always
+been, that we could easily travel twenty miles a day on ice of
+that kind.</p>
+<p>It will not be wondered at if the apparent hopelessness of
+getting the ship free for the present again suggested the
+necessity of my own setting out: and I had once more, on the 1st
+of June, after an anxious consultation with my officers, resolved
+on making a second attempt, when the ice near us, which had
+opened at regular hours with the tide for three or four days
+past, began to set us much more rapidly than usual to the
+eastward, and towards a low point which runs off from Red Beach,
+near its western end, causing us to shoal the water in a few
+hours from fifty-two to twenty fathoms, and on the following
+morning to fourteen and a half. By sending a lead-line over the
+ice a few hundred yards beyond us, we found ten fathoms water.
+However unfavourable the aspect of our affairs seemed before,
+this new change could not fail to alter it for the worse. The
+situation of the ship now, indeed, required my whole attention;
+for the ice occasionally opened and shut within twenty or
+twenty-five yards of us on the in-shore side, the ship herself
+was still very firmly imbedded by the turned up masses which
+pressed upon her on the 19th, and which, on the other side, as
+well as ahead and astern, were of considerable extent. Thus she
+formed, as it were, part of a floe, which went drifting about in
+the manner above described. This was of little importance while
+she was in sixty fathoms of water, as she was for the first
+fourteen days of our besetment, and a distance of five or six
+miles from the land; but now that she had shoaled the water so
+considerably, and approached the low point within two or three
+miles, it became a matter of importance to try whether any labour
+we could bestow upon it would liberate the ship from her present
+imbedded state, so as to be at least ready to take advantage of
+slack water, should any occur, to keep her off the shore. All
+hands were therefore set to work with handspikes, capstan-bars,
+and axes, it being necessary to detach every separate mass,
+however small, before the larger ones could be moved. The
+harassing and laborious nature of this operation is such as
+nothing but experience can possibly give an idea of, especially
+when, as in this case, we had only a small pool of clear water
+near the margin in which the detached pieces could be floated
+out. However, we continued at work, with only the necessary
+intermissions for rest and meals, during this and the two
+following days, and on the evening of the 3d had accomplished all
+that the closeness of the ice would permit; but the ship was
+still by no means free, numberless masses of ice being doubled
+under her, even below her keel, which could not be moved without
+more space for working.</p>
+<p>Painful as was this protracted delay in setting out upon the
+principal object of the expedition, the absolute necessity of it
+will scarcely, I think, be doubted by any person conversant in
+such matters. So long as the ship continued undisturbed by the
+ice, nearly stationary, and in deep water, for several days
+together, I had, in my anxiety to lose not a moment's time,
+ventured to flatter myself with the hope that, in a case of such
+unlooked-for emergency, when every moment of our short and
+uncertain season was of importance, I might be justified in
+quitting my ship at sea; and in this opinion the zeal of my
+officers, both those who were to accompany me and those who were
+to remain on board, induced them unanimously to concur. But the
+case was now materially altered; for it had become plain to every
+seaman in the ship, first, that the safety of the Hecla, if thus
+left with less than half her working hands, could not be reckoned
+upon for an hour; and, secondly, that no human foresight could
+enable us to conjecture, should we set out while she was thus
+situated, when or where we should find her on our return. In
+fact, it appeared to us at this time, as indeed it was, a very
+providential circumstance, that the impracticable nature of the
+ice for travelling had offered no encouragement to persevere in
+my original intention of setting out a week before this time.</p>
+<p>For the two following days we continued closely beset, but
+still driving to the eastward across the mouth of Weyde Bay,
+which is here six or seven miles in breadth, and appeared to be
+very deep, the land in the centre receding to a distance of full
+eight leagues. In the afternoon of the 6th, we had driven within
+five miles of a point of land, beyond which, to the eastward, it
+seemed to recede considerably; and this appearing to answer
+tolerably to the situation of Muscle or Mussel Bay, as laid down
+in most of the charts, I was very anxious to discover whether we
+could here find shelter for the ship. A lane of water leading
+towards the land at no great distance from us, I hauled a boat
+over the ice and then rowed on shore, accompanied by Lieutenant
+Foster and some of the other officers, taking with me another
+small store of provisions, to be deposited here, as a future
+resource for my party, should we approach this part of the
+coast.</p>
+<p>Landing at half past six P.M., and leaving Mr. Bird to bury
+the provisions, Lieutenant Foster and myself walked without delay
+to the eastward, and, on ascending the point, found that there
+was, as we had supposed, an indentation in the coast on the other
+side. We now began to conceive the most flattering hopes of
+discovering something like a harbour for the ship, and pushed on
+with all possible haste to examine the place farther; but, after
+three hours walking, were much mortified, on arriving at its
+head, to find that it was nothing but an open bay, entirely
+exposed to the inroads of all the northern ice, and therefore
+quite unfit for the ship. We returned to the boat greatly
+disappointed, and reached the Hecla at 1.30 A.M. on the 7th.</p>
+<p>I do not remember to have ever experienced in these regions
+such a continuance of beautiful weather as we now had, during
+more than three weeks that we had been on the northern coast of
+Spitzbergen. Day after day we had a clear and cloudless sky,
+scarcely any wind, and, with the exception of a few days previous
+to the 23d of May, a warm temperature in the shade, and quite a
+scorching sun. On the 3d of June we had a shower of rain, and on
+the 6th it rained pretty hard for two or three hours. After the
+1st of June we could procure abundance of excellent water upon
+the ice, and by the end of the first week the floe-pieces were
+looking blue with it in some parts, and the snow had everywhere
+become too soft to bear a man's weight.</p>
+<p>On the 7th, the ship, still closely beset, had drifted much
+more to the eastward, being within a mile of the spot where the
+provisions had been deposited the preceding evening. There was
+now no other ice between us and the land except the floe to which
+we had been so long attached; and round this we were occasionally
+obliged to warp, whenever a little slackening of the ice
+permitted, in order to prevent our getting too near the rocks. In
+this situation of suspense and anxiety we still remained until
+the evening of the 8th, when a breeze at length springing up from
+the southward began to open out the ice from the point near which
+we lay. As soon as the channel was three or four hundred yards
+wide, we warped into the clear water, and, making sail, rounded
+the point in safety, having no soundings with twenty fathoms, at
+one third of a mile from a small rocky islet lying off it. In the
+mean time the wind had been driving the ice so fast off the land
+as to form for us a clear communication with the open water
+before seen to the eastward; and thus we were at length liberated
+from our confinement, after a close and tedious "besetment" of
+twenty-four days.</p>
+<p>The weather continued so thick, that, impatient as we were to
+stand in towards the eastern land, we could not venture to do so
+till eleven A.M. on the 10th, when we made sail towards
+Brandywine Bay, the wind being now from the W.S.W., or nearly
+dead upon that shore. The weather clearing up at 1.15 P.M., we
+saw the eastern land, and soon after discovered the grounded ice
+off Low Island; Walden's Island was also plainly in sight to the
+N.E. The bay seemed deeply indented, and very likely to afford
+nooks such as we wanted; and where so large a space of open
+water, and, consequently, some sea, had been exerting its
+influence for a considerable time, we flattered ourselves with
+the most sanguine hopes of now having access to the shores,
+sufficiently near, at least, for sawing into some place of
+shelter. How, then, shall I express our surprise and
+mortification in finding that the whole of the coast, from the
+islands northward to Black Point, and apparently also as far as
+Walden's Island, was rendered inaccessible by one continuous and
+heavy floe, everywhere attached to the shores, and to the
+numberless grounded masses about the island, this immense barrier
+being in some places six or seven miles in width, and not less
+than twelve feet in thickness near the margin.</p>
+<p>The prospect from our masthead at this time was certainly
+enough to cast a damp over every sanguine expectation I had
+formed, of being <i>soon</i> enabled to place the Hecla in
+security; and more willingly than ever would I, at this period,
+have persuaded myself, if possible, that I should be justified in
+quitting her at sea. Such, however, was the nature of this
+navigation, as regarded the combined difficulties arising from
+ice and a large extent of shoal and unsurveyed ground, that, even
+with our full complement of officers and men on board, all our
+strength and exertions might scarcely have sufficed, in a single
+gale of wind, to keep the ship tolerably secure, and much less
+could I have ensured placing her ultimately in any proper
+situation for picking up an absent party; for, if once again
+beset, she must, of course, be at the mercy of the ice. The
+conclusion was, therefore, irresistibly forced upon my mind, that
+thus to leave the ship would be to expose her to imminent and
+certain peril, rendering it impossible to conjecture where we
+should find her on our return, and, therefore, rashly to place
+all parties in a situation from which nothing but disaster could
+reasonably be expected to ensue.</p>
+<p>After beating through much ice, which was all of the drift or
+broken kind, and had all found its way hither in the last two
+days, we got into an open space of water in-shore, and about six
+miles to the northward of Low Island; and on the morning of the
+13th stretched in towards Walden Island, around which we found,
+as we had feared, a considerable quantity of fixed ice. It was
+certainly much less here, than elsewhere; but the inner, or
+eastern side of the island was entirely enveloped by it.</p>
+<p>Having from twenty-six to twenty-four fathoms at the distance
+of four miles from Walden Island, I was preparing two boats, with
+the intention of going to sound about its northern point, which
+was the most clear of ice, and not without a faint hope of
+finding something like shelter there; but I was prevented by a
+thick fog coming on. Continuing, therefore, to beat to the
+northward, we passed occasionally a good deal of drift ice, but
+with every appearance of much clear water in that direction; and
+the weather clearing about midnight, we observed in latitude
+80&deg;43'32". The Seven Islands were in sight to the eastward,
+and the "Little Table Island" of Phipps bore E.N.E. (true)
+distant about nine or ten miles. It is a mere craggy rock,
+rising, perhaps, from four to five hundred feet above the level
+of the sea, and with a small low islet lying off its northern
+end. This island, being the northernmost known land in the world,
+naturally excited much of our curiosity; and bleak, and barren,
+and rugged as it is, one could not help gazing at it with intense
+interest.</p>
+<p>At midnight on the 14th we had reached the latitude
+81&deg;5'32" Our longitude by chronometers at this time was
+19&deg; 34' E., Little Table Island bearing S. 26&deg; E. (true),
+distant six or seven leagues, and Walden Island S. 4&deg; E.<a
+name='FNanchor_019_19'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_019_19'><sup>[019]</sup></a> The depth of water was
+ninety-seven fathoms, on a bottom of greenish mud; and the
+temperature at ninety-five fathoms, by Six's thermometer, was
+29.8&deg;, that at the surface being 31&deg;, and of the air
+28&deg;. All that could here be seen to the northward was loose
+drift-ice. To the northeast it was particularly open, and I have
+no doubt that we might have gone many miles farther in that
+direction, had it not been a much more important object to keep
+the ship free than to push her to the northward.</p>
+<p>We now stood back again to the southward, in order again to
+examine the coast wherever we could approach it; but found, on
+the 15th, that none of the land was at all accessible, the wind
+having got round to the W.N.W., and loaded all the shores with
+drift-ice.</p>
+<p>Walden Island being the first part clear of the loose ice, we
+stretched in for it on the 16th, and, when within two miles,
+observed that about half that space was occupied by land-ice,
+even on its northwestern side, which was the only accessible one,
+the rest being wholly enclosed by it. However, being desirous of
+obtaining a better view than our crow's-nest commanded, and also
+of depositing here a small quantity of provisions, I left the
+ship at one P.M., accompanied by Lieutenant Foster in a second
+boat, and, landing upon the ice, walked over about three quarters
+of a mile of high and rugged hummocks to the shore. Ascending two
+or three hundred feet, we had a clear and extensive view of the
+Seven Islands, and of some land far beyond them to the eastward;
+and the whole sea was covered with one unbroken land-floe,
+attached to all the shores extending from the island where we
+stood, and which formed an abutment for it each way along the
+land as far as the eye could reach. After this discouraging
+prospect, which wholly destroyed every hope of finding a harbour
+among the Seven Islands, we returned to the place where the men
+had deposited the provisions, and, after making the necessary
+observations for the survey, returned immediately on board.</p>
+<p>Observing from the island that the sea was perfectly clear to
+the northward, we now stood for Little Table Island, with some
+slight hope that the rock off its northern end might afford
+shelter for the ship; at all events, being the most exposed, on
+account of its situation, it was the most likely to be free from
+ice. A thick fog prevented our getting near it till the morning
+of the 17th, when, having approached it within a mile and a half,
+I sent Lieutenant Ross on shore to a little islet, which was
+quite free from ice, where he deposited another small store of
+provisions, but found nothing like shelter for the ship.</p>
+<p>Having no farther business here, and the easterly wind still
+continuing, I thought the best thing we could do would be to run
+again to the southward of Low Island, and try once more to
+approach the shores about the entrance of the Waygatz Strait. We
+therefore bore up under all sail to the southwest.</p>
+<p>It would be vain to deny that I had lately begun to entertain
+the most serious apprehensions as related to the accomplishment
+of our principal object. The 17th of June had now arrived, and
+all that we saw afforded us the most discouraging prospect as to
+our getting the Hecla into harbour; while every day's experience
+showed how utterly rash a measure it would be to think of
+quitting her in her present situation, which, even with all her
+officers and men, was one of extreme precariousness and
+uncertainty.</p>
+<p>On the evening of the 18th, while standing in for the high
+land to the eastward of Verlegen Hook, which, with due attention
+to the lead, may be approached with safety, we perceived from the
+crow's-nest what appeared a low point, possibly affording some
+shelter for the ship, and which seemed to answer to an
+indentation of the coast laid down in an old Dutch chart, and
+there called <i>Treurenburg Bay</i>.</p>
+<p>On the following morning I proceeded to examine the place,
+accompanied by Lieutenant Ross in a second boat, and, to our
+great joy, found it a considerable bay, with one part affording
+excellent landlocked anchorage and, what was equally fortunate,
+sufficiently clear of ice to allow the ship to enter. Having
+sounded the entrance and determined on the anchorage, we returned
+to the ship to bring her in; and I cannot describe the
+satisfaction which the information of our success communicated to
+every individual on board. The main object of our enterprise now
+appeared almost within our grasp, and everybody seemed anxious to
+make up, by renewed exertions, for the time we had unavoidably
+lost. The ship was towed and warped in with the greatest
+alacrity, and at 1.40 A.M. on June 20th, we dropped the anchor in
+Hecla Cove, in thirteen fathoms, on a bottom of very tenacious
+blue clay, and made some hawsers fast to the land-ice, which
+still filled all the upper part of the bay. After resting a few
+hours, we sawed a canal a quarter of a mile in length, through
+which the ship was removed into a better situation, a bower-cable
+taken on shore and secured to the rocks, and an anchor, with the
+chain-cable, laid out the other way. On the morning of the 21st
+we hauled the launch up on the beach, it being my intention to
+direct such resources of every kind to be landed as would render
+our party wholly independent of the ship, either for returning to
+England or for wintering, in case of the ship being driven to sea
+by the ice; a contingency against which, in these regions, no
+precaution can altogether provide. I directed Lieutenant Foster,
+upon whom the charge of the Hecla was now to devolve, to land
+without delay the necessary stores, keeping the ship seaworthy by
+taking in an equal quantity of ballast; and, as soon as he should
+be satisfied of her security from ice, to proceed on the survey
+of the eastern coast; but, should he see reason to doubt her
+safety with a still farther diminution of her crew to relinquish
+the survey, and attend exclusively to the ship. I also gave
+directions that notices should be sent, in the course of the
+summer, to the various stations where our depots of provisions
+were established, acquainting me with the situation and state of
+the ship, and giving me any other information which might be
+necessary for my guidance on our return from the northward. These
+and other arrangements being completed, I left the ship at five
+P.M. with our two boats, which we named the Enterprise and
+Endeavour, Mr. Beverly being attached to my own, and Lieutenant
+Ross, accompanied by Mr. Bird, in the other. Besides these, I
+took Lieutenant Crozier in one of the ship's cutters, for the
+purpose of carrying some of our weight as far as Walden Island,
+and also a third store of provisions to be deposited on Low
+Island, as an intermediate station between Walden Island and the
+ship. As it was still necessary not to delay our return beyond
+the end of August, the time originally intended, I took, with me
+only seventy-one days provisions; which, including the boats and
+every other article, made up a weight of 268 lbs. per man; and as
+it appeared highly improbable, from what we had seen of the very
+rugged nature of the ice we should first have to encounter, that
+either the reindeer, the snow-shoes, or the wheels would prove of
+any service for some time to come, I gave up the idea of taking
+them. We, however, constructed out of the snow-shoes four
+excellent sledges for dragging a part of our baggage over the
+ice; and these proved of invaluable service to us, while the rest
+of the things just mentioned would only have been an
+encumbrance.</p>
+<p>Having received the usual salutation of three cheers from
+those we left behind, we paddled through a quantity of loose ice
+at the entrance of the bay, and then steered, in a perfectly open
+sea, and with calm and beautiful weather, for the western part of
+Low Island, which we reached at half past two on the morning of
+the 22d.</p>
+<p>Having deposited the provisions, we set off at four A.M.,
+paddling watch and watch, to give the people a little rest. It
+was still quite calm; but there being much ice about the island,
+and a thick fog coming on, we were several hours groping our way
+clear of it. The walruses were here very numerous, lying in herds
+upon the ice, and plunging into the water to follow us as we
+passed. The sound they utter is something between bellowing and
+very loud snorting, which, together with their grim, bearded
+countenances and long tusks, makes them appear, as indeed they
+are, rather formidable enemies to contend with. Under our present
+circumstances, we were very well satisfied not to molest them,
+for they would soon have destroyed our boats if one had been
+wounded; but I believe they are never the first to make the
+attack. We landed upon the ice still attached to Walden Island at
+3.30 A.M. on the 23d. Our flat-bottomed boats rowed heavily with
+their loads, but proved perfectly safe, and very comfortable. The
+men being much fatigued, we rested here some hours, and, after
+making our final arrangements with Lieutenant Crozier, parted
+with him at three in the afternoon, and set off for Little Table
+Island. Finding there was likely to be so much open water in this
+neighbourhood in the autumn, I sent directions to Lieutenant
+Foster to have a spare boat deposited at Walden Island in time
+for our return, in case of any accident happening to ours.</p>
+<p>The land-ice, which still adhered to the Seven Islands, was
+very little more broken off than when the Hecla had been here a
+week before; and we rowed along its margin a part of the way to
+Little Table Island, where we arrived at ten P.M. We here
+examined and re-secured the provisions left on shore, having
+found our dep&ocirc;t at Walden Island disturbed by the bears.
+The prospect to the northward at this time was very favourable,
+there being only a small quantity of loose ice in sight; and the
+weather still continuing calm and clear, with the sea as smooth
+as a mirror, we set off without delay, at half past ten, taking
+our final leave of the Spitzbergen shores, as we hoped, for at
+least two months. Steering due north, we made good progress, our
+latitude by the sun's meridian altitude at midnight being 80&deg;
+51' 13". A beautifully-coloured rainbow appeared for some time,
+without any appearance of rain falling. We observed that a
+considerable current was setting us to the eastward just after
+leaving the land, so that we had made a N.N.E. course, distance
+about ten miles, when we met with some ice, which soon becoming
+too close for farther progress, we landed upon a high hummock to
+obtain a better view. We here perceived that the ice was close to
+the northward, but to the westward we discovered some open water,
+which we reached after two or three hours' paddling, and found it
+a wide expanse, in which we sailed to the northward without
+obstruction, a fresh breeze having sprung up from the S.W. The
+weather soon after became very thick, with continued snow,
+requiring great care in looking out for the ice, which made its
+appearance after two hours' run, and gradually became closer,
+till at length we were stopped by it at noon, and obliged to haul
+the boats upon a small floe-piece, our latitude by observation
+being 81&deg; 12' 51".</p>
+<p>Our plan of travelling being nearly the same throughout this
+excursion, after we first entered upon the ice, I may at once
+give some account of our usual mode of proceeding. It was my
+intention to travel wholly at night, and to rest by day, there
+being, of course, constant daylight in these regions during the
+summer season. The advantages of this plan, which was
+occasionally deranged by circumstances, consisted, first, in our
+avoiding the intense and oppressive glare from the snow during
+the time of the sun's greatest altitude, so as to prevent, in
+some degree, the painful inflammation in the eyes called "snow
+blindness," which is common in all snowy countries. We also thus
+enjoyed greater warmth during the hours of rest, and had a better
+chance of drying our clothes; besides which, no small advantage
+was derived from the snow being harder at night for travelling.
+The only disadvantage of this plan was, that the fogs were
+somewhat more thick by night than by day, though even in this
+respect there was less difference than might have been supposed,
+the temperature during the twenty-four hours undergoing but
+little variation. This travelling by night and sleeping by day so
+completely inverted the natural order of things, that it was
+difficult to persuade ourselves of the reality. Even the officers
+and myself, who were all furnished with pocket chronometers,
+could not always bear in mind at what part of the twenty-four
+hours we had arrived; and there were several of the men who
+declared, and I believe truly, that they, never knew night from
+day during the whole excursion.<a name='FNanchor_020_20'></a><a
+href='#Footnote_020_20'><sup>[020]</sup></a></p>
+<p>When we rose in the evening, we commenced our day by prayers,
+after which we took off our fur sleeping-dresses and put on those
+for travelling; the former being made of camlet, lined with
+racoon-skin, and the latter of strong blue box-cloth. We made a
+point of always putting on the same stockings and boots for
+travelling in, whether they dried during the day or not; and I
+believe it was only in five or six instances, at the most, that
+they were not either wet or hard-frozen. This, indeed, was of no
+consequence, beyond the discomforture of first putting them on in
+this state, as they were sure to be thoroughly wet in a quarter
+of an hour after commencing our journey; while, on the other
+hand, it was of vital importance to keep dry things for sleeping
+in. Being "rigged" for travelling, we breakfasted upon warm cocoa
+and biscuit, and, after stowing the things in the boats and on
+the sledges, so as to secure them as much as possible from wet,
+we set off on our day's journey, and usually travelled from five
+to five and a half hours, then stopped an hour to dine, and again
+travelled four, five, or even six hours, according to
+circumstances. After this we halted for the night, as we called
+it, though it was usually early in the morning, selecting the
+largest surface of ice we happened to be near for hauling the
+boats on, in order to avoid the danger of its breaking up by
+coming in contact with other masses, and also to prevent drift as
+much as possible. The boats were placed close alongside each
+other, with their sterns to the wind, the snow or wet cleared out
+of them, and the sails, supported by the bamboo masts and three
+paddles, placed over them as awnings, an entrance being left at
+the bow. Every man then immediately put on dry stockings and fur
+boots, after which we set about the necessary repairs of boats,
+sledges, or clothes; and, after serving the provisions for the
+succeeding day, we went to supper. Most of the officers and men
+then smoked their pipes, which served to dry the boats and
+awnings very much, and usually raised the temperature of our
+lodgings 10&deg; or 15&deg;. This part of the twenty-four hours
+was often a time, and the only one, of real enjoyment to us; the
+men told their stories and "fought all their battles o'er again,"
+and the labours of the day, unsuccessful as they too often were,
+were forgotten. A regular watch was set during our resting-time,
+to look out for bears or for the ice breaking up round us, as
+well as to attend to the drying of the clothes, each man
+alternately, taking this duty for one hour. We then concluded our
+day with prayers, and, having put on our fur-dresses, lay down to
+sleep with a degree of comfort, which perhaps few persons would
+imagine possible under such circumstances; our chief
+inconvenience being that we were somewhat pinched for room, and
+therefore obliged to stow rather closer than was quite agreeable.
+The temperature, while we slept, was usually from 36&deg; to
+45&deg;, according to the state of the external atmosphere; but
+on one or two occasions in calm and warm weather, it rose as high
+as 60&deg; to 66&deg;, obliging us to throw off a part of our
+fur-dress. After we had slept seven hours, the man appointed to
+boil the cocoa roused us when it was ready by the sound of a
+bugle, when we commenced our day in the manner before
+described.</p>
+<p><a name='a002'></a><a href='#a002_2'>Our allowance of
+provisions for each man per day was as follows:</a></p>
+<br>
+<pre>
+Biscuit                 10 ounces.
+Pemmican                 9 ounces.
+Sweetened Cocoa Powder   1 ounce, to make one pint.
+Rum                      1 gill.
+Tobacco                  3 ounces per week.
+</pre>
+<p>Our fuel consisted entirely of spirits of wine, of which two
+pints formed our daily allowance, the cocoa being cooked in an
+iron boiler over a shallow iron lamp, with seven wicks; a simple
+apparatus, which answered our purpose remarkably well. We usually
+found one pint of the spirits of wine sufficient for preparing
+our breakfast, that is, for heating twenty-eight pints of water,
+though it always commenced from the temperature of 32&deg;. If
+the weather was calm and fair, this quantity of fuel brought it
+to the boiling point in about an hour and a quarter; but more
+generally the wicks began to go out before it had reached.
+200&deg;. This, however, made a very comfortable meal to persons
+situated as we were. Such, with very little variation, was our
+regular routine during the whole of this excursion.</p>
+<p>We set off on our first journey over the ice at ten P.M. on
+the 24th, Table Island bearing S.S.W., and a fresh breeze blowing
+from W.S.W., with thick fog, which afterward changed to rain. The
+bags of pemmican were placed upon the sledges, and the bread in
+the boats, with the intention of securing the latter from wet;
+but this plan we were soon obliged to relinquish. We now
+commenced upon very slow and laborious travelling, the pieces of
+ice being of small extent and very rugged, obliging us to make
+three journeys, and sometimes four, with the boats and baggage,
+and to launch several times across narrow pools of water. We
+stopped to dine at five A.M. on the 25th, having made, by our log
+(which we kept very carefully, marking the courses by compass,
+and estimating the distances), about two miles and a half of
+northing; and, again setting forward, proceeded till eleven A.M.,
+when we halted to rest; our latitude, by observation at noon,
+being 81&deg; 15' 13".</p>
+<p>Setting out again at half past nine in the evening, we found
+our way to lie over nothing but small, loose, rugged masses of
+ice, separated by little pools of water, obliging us constantly
+to launch and haul up the boats, each of which operations
+required them to be unloaded, and occupied nearly a quarter of an
+hour. It came on to rain very hard on the morning of the 26th;
+and, finding we were making very little progress (having advanced
+not more than half a mile in four hours), and that our clothes
+would be soon wet through, we halted at half past one, and took
+shelter under the awnings. The weather improving at six o'clock,
+we again moved forward, and travelled till a quarter past eleven,
+when we hauled the boats upon the only tolerably large floe-piece
+in sight. The rain had very much increased the quantity of water
+lying upon the ice, of which nearly half the surface was now
+covered with numberless little ponds of various shapes and
+extent. It is a remarkable fact, that we had already experienced,
+in the course of this summer, more rain than during the whole of
+seven previous summers taken together, though passed in latitudes
+from 7&deg; to 15&deg; lower than this. A great deal of the ice
+over which we passed to-day presented a very curious appearance
+and structure, being composed, on its upper surface, of
+numberless irregular, needle-like crystals, placed vertically,
+and nearly close together; their length varying, in different
+pieces of ice, from five to ten inches, and their breadth in the
+middle about half an inch, but pointed at both ends. The upper
+surface of ice having this structure sometimes looks like
+greenish velvet; a vertical section of it, which frequently
+occurs at the margin of floes, resembles, while it remains
+compact, the most beautiful satin-spar, and asbestos when falling
+to pieces. At this early part of the season, this kind of ice
+afforded pretty firm footing; but, as the summer advanced, the
+needles became more loose and moveable, rendering it extremely
+fatiguing to walk over them, besides cutting our boots and feet,
+on which account the men called them "penknives."</p>
+<p>We pursued our journey at half past nine P.M., with the wind
+at N.E., and thick weather, the ice being so much in motion as to
+make it very dangerous to cross in loaded boats, the masses being
+all very small. On this account we halted at midnight, having
+waded three quarters of a mile through water from two to five
+inches deep upon the ice. The thermometer was at 33&deg;.</p>
+<p>At seven A.M. on the 28th, we came to a floe covered with high
+and rugged hummocks, which opposed a formidable obstacle to our
+progress, occurring in two or three successive tiers, so that we
+had no sooner crossed one than another presented itself. Over one
+of these we hauled the boats with extreme difficulty by a
+"standing pull," and the weather being then so thick that we
+could see no pass across the next tier, we were obliged to stop
+at nine A.M. While performing this laborious work, which required
+the boats to be got up and down places almost perpendicular,
+James Parker, my coxswain, received a severe contusion in his
+back, by the boat falling upon him from a hummock, and the boats
+were constantly subject to very heavy blows, but sustained no
+damage.<a name='FNanchor_021_21'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_021_21'><sup>[021]</sup></a> The weather continued
+very foggy during the day, but a small lane of water opening out
+at no great distance from the margin of the floe, we launched the
+boats at eight in the evening among loose drift-ice, and, after
+some time, landed on a small floe to the eastward, the only one
+in sight, with the hope of its leading to the northward. It
+proved so rugged that we were obliged to make three, and
+sometimes four journeys with the boats and provisions, and this
+by a very circuitous route; so that the road, by which we made a
+mile of northing, was full a mile and a half in length, and over
+this we had to travel at least five, and sometimes seven times.
+Thus, when we halted to dine at two A.M., after six hours' severe
+toil, and much risk to the men and boats, we had only
+accomplished about a mile and a quarter in a N.N.E. direction.
+After dining we proceeded again till half past six, and then
+halted, very much fatigued with our day's work, and having made
+two miles and a half of northing. We were here in latitude, by
+account, 81&deg; 23", and in longitude, by the chronometers,
+21&deg; 32' 34" E., in which situation the variation of the
+magnetic needle was observed to be 15&deg; 31' westerly. We now
+enjoyed the first sunshine since our entering the ice, and a
+great enjoyment it was, after so much thick and wet weather. We
+rose at half past four P.M., in the hopes of pursuing our
+journey; but, after hauling the boats to the edge of the floe,
+found such a quantity of loose, rugged ice to the northward of
+us, that there was no possibility, for the present, of getting
+across or through it. Observing a small opening at 10.30 P.M., we
+launched the boats, and hauled them across several pieces of ice,
+some of them being very light and much decayed. Our latitude, by
+the sun's meridian altitude at midnight, was 81&deg; 23'; so that
+we had made only eight miles of northing since our last
+observation at noon on the 25th.</p>
+<p>The 30th commenced with snowy and inclement weather, which
+soon rendered the atmosphere so thick that we could no longer see
+our way, obliging us to halt till two P.M., when we crossed
+several small pools with great labour and loss of time. We had
+generally very light ice this day, with some heavy, rugged pieces
+intermixed; and, when hauling across these, we had sometimes to
+cut with axes a passage for the boats among the hummocks. We also
+dragged them through a great many pools of fresh water, to avoid
+the necessity of going round them. The wind freshening up from
+the S.S.W., we afterward found the ice gradually more and more
+open, so that, in the course of the day, we made by rowing,
+though by a very winding channel, five miles of northing; but
+were again stopped by the ice soon after midnight, and obliged to
+haul up on the first mass that we could gain, the ice having so
+much motion that we narrowly escaped being "nipped." We set out
+at 11.30 A.M. on the 1st July, the wind still fresh from the
+S.W., and some snow falling: but it was more than an hour before
+we could get away from the small pieces of ice on which we slept,
+the masses beyond being so broken up and so much in motion, that
+we could not, at first, venture to launch the boats. Our
+latitude, observed at noon, was 81&deg; 30' 41". After crossing
+several pieces, we at length got into a good "lead" of water,
+four or five miles in length; two or three of which, as on the
+preceding day, occurred under the lee of a floe, being the second
+we had yet seen that deserved that name. We then passed over four
+or five small floes, and across the pools of water that lay
+between them. The ice was now less broken up, and sometimes
+tolerably level; but from six to eighteen inches of soft snow lay
+upon it in every part, making the travelling very fatiguing, and
+obliging us to make at least two, and sometimes three, journeys
+with our loads. We now found it absolutely necessary to lighten
+the boat as much as possible, by putting the bread-bags on the
+sledges, on account of the "runners" of the boats sinking so much
+deeper into the snow; but our bread ran a great risk of being
+wetted by this plan.</p>
+<p>We halted at eleven P.M. on the 1st, having traversed from ten
+to eleven miles, and made good, by our account, seven and half in
+a N.b.W. direction. We again set forward at ten A.M. on the 2d,
+the weather being calm, and the sun oppressively warm, though
+with a thick fog. The temperature in the shade was 35&deg; at
+noon, and only 47&deg; in the sun; but this, together with the
+glare from the snow, produced so painful a sensation in most of
+our eyes, as to make it necessary to halt at one P.M., to avoid
+being blinded. We therefore took advantage of this warm weather
+to let the men wash themselves, and mend and dry their clothes,
+and then set out again at half past three. The snow was, however,
+so soft as to take us up to our knees at almost every other step,
+and frequently still deeper; so that we were sometimes five
+minutes together in moving a single empty boat, with all our
+united strength. It being impossible to proceed under these
+circumstances, I determined to fall into our night-travelling
+again, from which we had of late insensibly deviated. We
+therefore halted at half past five, the weather being now very
+clear and warm, and many of the people's eyes beginning to fail.
+We did not set out again till after midnight, with the intention
+of giving the snow time to harden after so warm a day; but we
+found it still so soft as to make the travelling very fatiguing.
+Our way lay at first across a number of loose pieces, most of
+which were from five to twenty yards apart, or just sufficiently
+separated to give us all the labour of launching and hauling up
+the boats, without the advantage of making any progress by water;
+while we crossed, in other instances, from mass to mass, by
+laying the boats over as bridges, by which the men and the
+baggage passed. By these means, we at length reached a floe about
+a mile in length, in a northern direction; but it would be
+difficult to convey an adequate idea of the labour required to
+traverse it. The average depth of snow upon the level parts was
+about five inches, under which lay water four or five inches
+deep; but, the moment we approached a hummock, the depth to which
+we sank increased to three feet or more, rendering it difficult
+at times to obtain sufficient footing for one leg to enable us to
+extricate the other. The pools of fresh water had now also become
+very large, some of them being a quarter of a mile in length, and
+their depth above our knees. Through these we were prevented
+taking the sledges, for fear of wetting all our provisions; but
+we preferred transporting the boats across them, notwithstanding
+the severe cold of the snow-water, the bottom being harder for
+the "runners" to slide upon. On this kind of road we were, in one
+instance, above two hours in proceeding a distance of one hundred
+yards.</p>
+<p>We halted at half past six A.M. to dine; and to empty our
+boots and wring our stockings, which, to our feelings, was almost
+like putting on dry ones; and again set out in an hour, getting
+at length into a "lane" of water a mile and a quarter long, in a
+N.N.E. direction. We halted for the night at half an hour before
+midnight, the people being almost exhausted with a laborious
+day's work, and our distance made good to the northward not
+exceeding two miles and a quarter. We allowed ourselves this
+night a hot supper, consisting of a pint of soup per man, made of
+an ounce of pemmican each, and eight or ten birds, which we had
+killed in the course of the last week; and this was a luxury
+which persons thus situated could perhaps alone duly
+appreciate.</p>
+<p>We rose and breakfasted at nine P.M.; but the weather had
+gradually become so inclement and thick, with snow, sleet, and a
+fresh breeze from the eastward, that we could neither have seen
+our way, nor have avoided getting wet through had we moved. We
+therefore remained under cover; and it was as well that we did
+so, for the snow soon after changed to heavy rain, and the wind
+increased to a fresh gale, which unavoidably detained us till
+7.30 P.M. on the 4th. The rain had produced even a greater effect
+than the sun in softening the snow. Lieutenant Ross and myself,
+in performing our pioneering duty, were frequently so beset in
+it, that sometimes, after trying in vain to extricate our legs,
+we were obliged to sit quietly down for a short time to rest
+ourselves and then make another attempt; and the men, in dragging
+the sledges, were often under the necessity of crawling upon
+all-fours to make any progress at all. Nor would any kind of
+snow-shoes have been of the least service, but rather an
+encumbrance to us, for the surface was so irregular, that they
+would have thrown us down at every other step. We had hitherto
+made use of the Lapland shoes, or <i>kamoogas</i>, for walking
+in, which are excellent for dry snow; but there being now so much
+water upon the ice, we substituted the Esquimaux boots, which had
+been made in Greenland expressly for our use, and which are far
+superior to any others for this kind of travelling. Just before
+halting, at six A.M. on the 5th, the ice at the margin of the
+floe broke while the men were handing the provisions out of the
+boats; and we narrowly escaped the loss of a bag of cocoa, which
+fell overboard, but fortunately rested on a "tongue." The bag
+being made of Mackintosh's waterproof canvass, the cocoa did not
+suffer the slightest injury.</p>
+<p>We rose at five P.M., the weather being clear and fine, with a
+moderate breeze from the south; no land was in sight from the
+highest hummocks, nor could we perceive anything but broken loose
+ice in any direction. We hauled across several pieces which were
+scarcely fit to bear the weight of the boats, and in such cases
+used the precaution of dividing our baggage, so that, in case of
+the ice breaking or turning over, we should not lose all at once.
+The farther we proceeded, the more the ice was broken; indeed, it
+was much more so here than we had found it since first entering
+the "pack." After stopping at midnight to dine and to obtain the
+meridian altitude, we passed over a floe full of hummocks, a mile
+and a half in length; but any kind of floe was relief to us after
+the constant difficulty we had experienced in passing over loose
+ice.</p>
+<p>After several hours of very beautiful weather, a thick fog
+came on early on the morning of the 6th July, and at five A.M. we
+halted, having got to the end of the floe, and only made good two
+miles and a half to the northward. The fog continued very thick
+all day; but, being unwilling to stop on this account, we set out
+again at half past six in the evening, and passed over several
+small flat pieces with no great difficulty, but with much loss of
+time in launching and hauling up the boats. Towards the end of
+our day's journey, we landed on the only really level floe we had
+yet met with. It was, however, only three quarters of a mile in
+length, but, being almost clear of snow, afforded such good
+travelling, that, although much fatigued at the time, we hauled
+the boats and all the baggage across it at one journey, at the
+rate of about two miles an hour, and halted at the northern
+margin at five A.M. on the 7th. The prospect beyond was still
+very unfavourable, and at eight in the evening, when we again
+launched the boats, there was not a piece of large or level ice
+to be seen in a northern direction.</p>
+<p>We halted at six A.M. on the 8th, in time to avoid a great
+deal of rain which fell during the day, and again proceeded on
+our journey at eight in the evening, the wind being fresh from
+the E.S.E., with thick, wet weather. We now met with detached ice
+of a still lighter kind than before, the only floe in sight being
+much to the eastward of our course. This we reached after
+considerable labour, in the hope of its leading to the northward,
+which it did for about one mile, and we then came to the same
+kind of loose ice as before. On the morning of the 9th July, we
+enjoyed the indescribable comfort of two or three hours' clear,
+dry weather, but had scarcely hung up our wet clothes, after
+halting at five A.M., when it again came on to rain; but, as
+everything was as wet as it could be, we left them out to take
+their chance. The rain continued most of the day, but we set out
+at half past seven P.M., crossing loose ice, as usual, and much
+of the surface consisting of detached vertical needles. After an
+hour, the rain became so heavy that we halted to save our shirts,
+which were the only dry clothes' belonging to us. Soon after
+midnight, the rain being succeeded by one of the thickest fogs I
+ever saw, we again proceeded, groping our way almost yard by yard
+from one small piece of ice to another, and were very fortunate
+in hitting upon some with level surfaces, and also a few
+tolerable-sized holes of water. At half past two we reached a
+floe which appeared at first a level and large one; but, on
+landing, we were much mortified to find it so covered with
+immense ponds, or, rather, small lakes of fresh water, that, to
+accomplish two miles in a north direction, we were under the
+necessity of walking from three to four, the water being too deep
+for wading, and from two hundred yards to one third of a mile in
+length. We halted at six A.M., having made only one mile and
+three quarters in a N.N.W. direction, the wind still blowing
+fresh from the eastward, with a thick fog. We were in latitude
+82&deg; 3' 19", and longitude, by chronometers, 23&deg; 17' E.,
+and we found the variation of the magnetic needle to be 13&deg;
+41' westerly. We moved again at seven P.M., with the weather
+nearly as foggy as before, our road lying across a very hummocky
+floe, on which we had considerable difficulty in getting the
+boats, the ice being extremely unfavourable both for launching
+and hauling them up. After stopping an hour at midnight to dine,
+we were again annoyed by a heavy fall of rain, a phenomenon
+almost as new to us in these regions until this summer, as it was
+harassing and unhealthy. Being anxious, however, to take
+advantage of a lane of water that seemed to lead northerly, we
+launched the boats, and by the time that we had crossed it, which
+gave us only half a mile of northing, the rain had become much
+harder, and our outer clothes, bread bags, and boats were
+thoroughly wet. After this we had better travelling on the ice,
+and also crossed one or two larger holes of water than we had met
+with for a long time, and halted for our night's rest at half
+past seven A.M., after nearly twelve hours' hard, but not
+altogether unsuccessful labour, having traversed about twelve
+miles, and made good by our account, seven and a half, in a
+N.W.b.N. direction. The rain ceased soon after we had halted, but
+was succeeded, by a thick, wet fog, which obliged us, when we
+continued our journey, to put on our travelling clothes in the
+same dripping state as when we took them off. The wind continued
+fresh from the southeastward, and at nine P.M. the weather
+suddenly cleared up, and gave us once more the inconceivably
+cheering, I had almost said the blessed, sight of a blue sky,
+with hard, well-defined white clouds floating across it. We
+halted at six A.M., after making, by our day's exertions, only
+three miles and a half of northing, our latitude at this time
+being 82&deg; 14' 28", and our longitude, by chronometers,
+22&deg; 4' E. The thermometer was from 35&deg; to 36&deg; in the
+shade during most of the day, and this, with a clear sky over
+head, was now absolute luxury to us. Setting out again at seven
+P.M., we crossed a small lane of water to another floe; but this
+was so intersected by ponds, and by streams running into the sea,
+that we had to make a very circuitous route, some of the ponds
+being half-a mile in length. Notwithstanding the immense quantity
+of water still upon the ice, and which always afforded us a pure
+and abundant supply of this indispensable article, we now
+observed a mark round the banks of all the ponds, showing that
+the water was less deep in them, by several inches, than it had
+been somewhat earlier in the summer; and, indeed, from about this
+time, some small diminution in its quantity began to be
+perceptible to ourselves. We halted for our resting-time at six
+A.M. on the 13th, having gained only two miles and a half of
+northing, over a road of about four, and this accomplished by ten
+hours of fatiguing exertion. We were here in latitude, by the
+noon observation, 82&deg; 17' 10", and could find no bottom with
+four hundred fathoms of line. We launched the boats at seven in
+the evening, the wind being moderate from the E.S.E., with fine,
+clear weather, and were still mortified in finding that no
+improvement took place in the road over which we had to travel;
+for the ice now before us was, if possible, more broken up and
+more difficult to pass over than ever. Much of it was also so
+thin as to be extremely dangerous for the provisions; and it was
+often a nervous thing to see our whole means of existence lying
+on a decayed sheet, having holes quite through it in many parts,
+and which the smallest motion among the surrounding masses might
+have instantly broken into pieces. There was, however, no choice,
+except between this road and the more rugged though safer
+hummocks, which cost ten times the labour to pass over. Mounting
+one of the highest of these at nine P.M., we could discover
+nothing to the north, ward but the same broken and irregular
+surface; and we now began to doubt whether we should at all meet
+with the solid fields of unbroken ice which every account had led
+us to expect in a much lower latitude than this. A very strong,
+yellow ice-blink overspread the whole northern horizon.</p>
+<p>We stopped to dine at half an hour past midnight, after more
+than five hours unceasing labour, in the course of which time we
+had only accomplished a mile and a half due north, though we had
+traversed from three to four, and walked at least ten, having
+made three journeys a great part of the way. We had launched and
+hauled up the boats four times, and dragged them over twenty-five
+separate pieces of ice. After dinner we continued the same kind
+of travelling, which was, beyond all description, harrassing to
+the officers and men. In crossing from mass to mass, several of
+which were separated about half the length of our sledges, the
+officers were stationed at the most difficult places to see that
+no precaution, was omitted which could ensure the safety of the
+provisions. Only one individual was allowed to jump over at a
+time, or to stand near either margin, for fear of the weight
+being too great for it; and when three or four men had separately
+crossed, the sledge was cautiously drawn up to the edge, and the
+word being given, the men suddenly ran away with the ropes, so as
+to allow no time for its falling in if the ice should break.
+Having at length succeeded in reaching a small floe, we halted at
+half past six A.M., much wearied by nearly eleven hours'
+exertion, by which we had only advanced three miles and a half in
+a N.N.W. direction. We rose at six P.M., and prepared to set out,
+but it rained so hard and so incessantly that it would have been
+impossible to move without a complete drenching. It held up a
+little at five, and at six we set out; but the rain soon
+recommenced, though less heavily than before. At eight the rain
+again became heavier, and we got under shelter of our awnings for
+a quarter of an hour, to keep our shirts and other flannel
+clothes dry; these being the only things we now had on which were
+not thoroughly wet. At nine we did the same, but before ten were
+obliged to halt altogether, the rain coming down in torrents, and
+the men being much exhausted by continued wet and cold, though
+the thermometer was at 36&deg;, which was somewhat above our
+usual temperature. At half past seven P.M. we again pursued our
+journey, and, after much laborious travelling, we were fortunate,
+considering the fog, in hitting upon a floe which proved the
+longest we had yet crossed, being three miles from south to
+north, though alternately rugged and flat. From this we launched
+into a lane of water half a mile long from east to west, but
+which only gave us a hundred and fifty yards of northing.</p>
+<p>The floe on which we stopped to dine, at one A.M. on the 16th,
+was not more than four feet thick, and its extent half a mile
+square; and on this we had the rare advantage of carrying all our
+loads at one journey. At half past six the fog cleared away, and
+gave us beautiful weather for drying our clothes, and once more
+the cheerful sight of the blue sky. We halted at half past seven,
+after being twelve hours on the road, having made a N.b.W.
+course, distance only six miles and a quarter, though we had
+traversed nine miles. We saw, during this last journey, a
+mallemucke and a second Ross gull: and a couple of small flies
+(to us an event of ridiculous importance) were found upon the
+ice.</p>
+<p>We again pursued our way at seven in the evening, having the
+unusual comfort of putting on dry stockings, and the no less rare
+luxury of delightfully pleasant weather, the wind being moderate
+from the S.S.E. It was so warm in the sun, though the temperature
+in the shade was only 35&deg;, that the tar was running out of
+the seams of the boats; and a blackened bulb held against the
+paint-work raised the thermometer to 72&deg;. The floes were
+larger to-day, and the ice, upon the whole, of heavier dimensions
+than any we had yet met with. The general thickness of the floes,
+however, did not exceed nine or ten feet, which is not more than
+the usual thickness of those in Baffin's Bay and Hudson's
+Strait.</p>
+<p>The 17th of July being one of the days on which the Royal
+Society of Edinburgh have proposed to institute a series of
+simultaneous meteorological observations, we commenced an hourly
+register of every phenomenon which came under our notice, and
+which our instruments and other circumstances would permit, and
+continued most of them throughout the day. Our latitude, observed
+at noon, was 82&deg; 32' 10", being more than a mile to the
+southward of the reckoning, though the wind had been constantly
+from that quarter during the twenty-four hours.</p>
+<p>After midnight the road became, if possible, worse, and the
+prospect to the northward more discouraging than before; nothing
+but loose and very small pieces of ice being in sight, over which
+the boats were dragged almost entirely by a "standing-pull." The
+men were so exhausted with their day's work, that it was
+absolutely necessary to give them something hot for supper, and
+we again served a little cocoa for that purpose. They were also
+put into good spirits by our having killed a small seal, which,
+the following night, gave us an excellent supper. The meat of
+these young animals is tender, and free from oiliness; but it
+certainly has a smell and a look which would not have been
+agreeable to any but very hungry people like ourselves. We also
+considered it a great prize on account of its blubber, which gave
+us fuel sufficient for cooking six hot messes for our whole
+party, though the animal only weighed thirty pounds in the
+whole.</p>
+<p>Setting out at half past seven in the evening, we found the
+sun more distressing to the eyes than we had ever yet had it,
+bidding defiance to our crape veils and wire-gauze eye-shades;<a
+name='FNanchor_022_22'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_022_22'><sup>[022]</sup></a> but a more effectual
+screen was afforded by the sun becoming clouded about nine P.M.
+At half past nine we came to a very difficult crossing among the
+loose ice, which, however, we were encouraged to attempt by
+seeing a floe of some magnitude beyond it. We had to convey the
+sledges and provisions one way, and to haul the boats over by
+another. One of the masses over which the boats came began to
+roll about while one of them was upon it, giving us reason to
+apprehend its upsetting, which must have been attended with some
+very serious consequence: fortunately, however, it retained its
+equilibrium long enough to allow us to get the boat past it in
+safety, not without several of the men falling overboard, in
+consequence of the long jumps we had to make, and the edges
+breaking with their weight.</p>
+<p>On the morning of the 20th we came to a good deal of ice,
+which formed a striking contrast with the other, being composed
+of flat bay-floes, not three feet thick, which would have
+afforded us good travelling had they not recently been broken
+into small pieces, obliging us to launch frequently from one to
+another. These floes had been the product of the last winter
+only, having probably been formed in some of the interstices left
+between the larger bodies; and, from what we saw of them, there
+could be little doubt of their being all dissolved before the
+next autumnal frost. We halted at seven A.M., having, by our
+reckoning, accomplished six miles and a half in a N.N.W.
+direction, the distance traversed being ten miles and a half. It
+may therefore be imagined how great was our mortification in
+finding that our latitude, by observation at noon, was only
+82&deg; 36' 52", being less than <i>five</i> miles to the
+northward of our place at noon on the 17th, since which time we
+had certainly travelled <i>twelve</i> in that direction.</p>
+<p>At five A.M. on the 21st, having gone ahead, as usual, upon a
+bay-floe, to search for the best road, I heard a more than
+ordinary noise and bustle among the people who were bringing up
+the boats behind. On returning to them, I found that we had
+narrowly, and most providentially, escaped a serious calamity;
+the floe having broken under the weight of the boats and sledges,
+and the latter having nearly been lost through the ice. Some of
+the men went completely through, and one of them was only held up
+by his drag-belt being attached to a sledge which happened to be
+on firmer ice. Fortunately the bread had, by way of security,
+been kept in the boats, or this additional weight would
+undoubtedly have sunk the sledges, and probably some of the men
+with them. As it was, we happily escaped, though we hardly knew
+how, with a good deal of wetting; and, cautiously approaching the
+boats, drew them to a stronger part of the ice, after which we
+continued our journey till half past six A.M., when we halted to
+rest, having travelled about seven miles N.N.W., our longitude by
+chronometers being 19&deg; 52' east, and the latitude 82&deg; 39'
+10", being only two miles and a quarter to the northward of the
+preceding day's observation, or four miles and a half to the
+southward of our reckoning.</p>
+<p>Our sportsmen had the good fortune to kill another seal
+to-day, rather larger than the first, which again proved a most
+welcome addition to our provisions and fuel. Indeed, after this
+supply of the latter, we were enabled to allow ourselves every
+night a pint of warm water for supper, each man making his own
+soup from such a portion of his bread and pemmican as he could
+save from dinner. Setting out again at seven in the evening, we
+were not sorry to find the weather quite calm, which sailors
+account "half a fair wind;" for it was now evident that nothing
+but a southerly breeze could enable us to make any tolerable
+progress, or to regain what we had lately lost.</p>
+<p>Our travelling to-night was the very best we had during this
+excursion; for though we had to launch and haul up the boats
+frequently, an operation which, under the most favourable
+circumstances, necessarily occupies much time, yet the floes
+being large and tolerably level, and some good lanes of water
+occurring, we made, according to the most moderate calculation,
+between ten and eleven miles in a N.N.E. direction, and traversed
+a distance of about seventeen. We halted at a quarter past eight
+A.M. after more than twelve hours' actual travelling, by which
+the people were extremely fatigued; but, while our work seemed to
+be repaid by anything like progress, the men laboured with great
+cheerfulness to the utmost of their strength. The ice over which
+we had travelled was by far the largest and heaviest we met with
+during our whole journey; this, indeed, was the only occasion on
+which we saw anything answering in the slightest degree to the
+descriptions given of the main ice. The largest floe was from two
+and a half to three miles square, and in some places the
+thickness of the ice was from 15 to 20 feet. However, it was a
+satisfaction to observe that the ice had certainly improved; and
+we now ventured to hope that, for the short time that we could
+still pursue our outward journey, our progress would be more
+commensurate with our exertions than it had hitherto proved. In
+proportion, then, to the hopes we had begun to entertain, was our
+disappointment in finding, at noon, that we were in latitude
+82&deg; 43' 5", or not quite four miles to the northward of
+yesterday's observation, instead of the ten or eleven which we
+had travelled! We halted at seven A.M. on the 23d, after a
+laborious day's work, and, I must confess, a disheartening one to
+those who knew to how little effect we were struggling; which,
+however, the men did not, though they often laughingly remarked
+that "we were a long time getting to this 83&deg;!" Being anxious
+to make up, in some measure, for the drift which the present
+northerly wind was in all probability occasioning, we rose
+earlier than usual, and set off at half past four in the evening.
+At half past five P.M. we saw a very beautiful natural
+phenomenon. A broad white fog-bow first appeared opposite the
+sun, as was very commonly the case; presently it became strongly
+tinged with, the prismatic colours, and soon afterward no less
+than five other complete arches were formed within the main bow,
+the interior ones being gradually narrower than those without,
+but the whole of them beautifully coloured. The larger bow, and
+the one next within it, had the red on the outer or upper part of
+the circle, the others on the inner side.</p>
+<p>We halted at a quarter past three on the morning of the 24th,
+having made four miles and a half N.N.E., over a road of about
+seven and a half, most of which we traversed, as usual, three
+times. We moved again at four P.M. over a difficult road,
+composed of small and rugged ice. So small was the ice now around
+us, that we were obliged to halt for the night at two A.M. on the
+25th, being upon the only piece in sight, in any direction, on
+which we could venture to trust the boats while we rested. Such
+was the ice in the latitude of 82-3/4&deg;.</p>
+<p>The wind had now got round to the W.N.W., with raw, foggy
+weather, and continued to blow fresh all day. Snow came on soon
+after our halting, and about two inches had fallen when we moved
+again at half past four P.M. We continued our journey in this
+inclement weather for three hours, hauling from piece to piece,
+and not making more than three quarters of a mile progress, till
+our clothes and bread-bags had become very wet, and the snow fell
+so thick that we could no longer see our way. It was therefore
+necessary to halt, which we did at half past seven, putting the
+awnings over the boats, changing our wet clothes, and giving the
+men employment for the mere sake of occupying their minds. The
+weather improving towards noon on the 26th, we obtained the
+meridian altitude of the sun, by which we found ourselves in
+latitude 82&deg; 40' 23"; so that, since our last observation (at
+midnight on the 22d), we had lost by drift no less than thirteen
+miles and a half; for we were now more than three miles to the
+<i>southward</i> of that observation, though we had certainly
+travelled between ten and eleven due north in this interval!
+Again, we were but one mile to the north of our place at noon on
+the 21st, though we had estimated our distance made good at
+twenty-three miles. Thus it appeared that for the last five days
+we had been struggling against a southerly drift exceeding four
+miles per day.</p>
+<p>It had, for some time past, been too evident that the nature
+of the ice with which we had to contend was such, and its drift
+to the southward, especially with a northerly wind, so great, as
+to put beyond our reach anything but a very moderate share of
+success in travelling to the northward. Still, however, we had
+been anxious to reach the highest latitude which our means would
+allow, and with this view, although our whole object had long
+become unattainable, had pushed on to the northward for
+thirty-five days, or until half our resources were expended, and
+the middle of our season arrived. For the last few days the
+eighty-third parallel was the limit to which we had ventured to
+extend our hopes; but even this expectation had become
+considerably weakened since the setting in of the last northerly
+wind, which continued to drive us to the southward, during the
+necessary hours of rest, nearly as much as we could gain by
+eleven or twelve hours of daily labour. Had our success been at
+all proportionate to our exertions, it was my full intention to
+proceed a few days beyond the middle of the period for which we
+were provided, trusting to the resources we expected to find at
+Table Island. But I could not but consider it as incurring
+useless fatigue to the officers and men, and unnecessary wear and
+tear for the boats, to persevere any longer in the attempt. I
+determined, therefore, on giving the people one entire day's
+rest, which they very much needed, and time to wash and mend
+their clothes, while the officers were occupied in making all the
+observations which might be interesting in this latitude; and
+then to set out on our return on the following day. Having
+communicated my intentions to the people, who were all much
+disappointed at finding how little their labours had effected, we
+set about our respective occupations, and were much favoured by a
+remarkably fine day.</p>
+<p>The highest latitude we reached was probably at seven A.M. on
+the 23d, when, after the midnight observation, we travelled, by
+our account, something more than a mile and a half, which would
+carry us a little beyond 82&deg; 45'. Some observations for the
+magnetic intensity were obtained at this station. We here found
+no bottom with five hundred fathoms of line. At the extreme point
+of our journey, our distance from the Hecla was only 172 miles in
+a S. 8&deg; W. direction. To accomplish this distance, we had
+traversed, by our reckoning, 292 miles, of which about 100 were
+performed by water, previous to our entering the ice. As we
+travelled by far the greater part of our distance on the ice
+three, and not unfrequently five, times over, we may safely
+multiply the length of the road by two and a half; so that our
+whole distance, on a very moderate calculation, amounted to 580
+geographical or 668 statute miles, being nearly sufficient to
+have reached the Pole in a direct line.</p>
+<p>Our day of rest (27th of July) proved one of the warmest and
+most pleasant to the feelings we had yet had upon the ice, though
+the thermometer was only from 31&deg; to 36&deg; in the shade,
+and 37&deg; in the sun, with occasional fog; but to persons in
+the open air, calm and tolerably dry weather affords absolute
+enjoyment, especially by contrast with what we had lately
+experienced. Our ensigns and pendants were displayed during the
+day; and, sincerely as we regretted not having been able to hoist
+the British flag in the highest latitude to which we had aspired,
+we shall perhaps be excused in having felt some little pride in
+being the bearers of it to a parallel considerably beyond that
+mentioned in any other well-authenticated record.</p>
+<p>At 4.30 P.M. on the 27th, we set out on our return to the
+southward, and I can safely say that, dreary and cheerless as
+were the scenes we were about to leave, we never turned homeward
+with so little satisfaction as on this occasion. To afford a
+chance of determining the general set of the current from this
+latitude, we left upon a hummock of ice a paper, sewn up in a
+water-proof canvass bag, and then enclosed in a water-tight tin
+canister, giving an account of the place where it was deposited,
+and requesting any person who should find it to send it to the
+secretary of the admiralty. Nothing worthy of particular notice
+occurred on this and the following day, on each of which we
+travelled eleven hours; finding the water somewhat more open and
+the floes less rugged than usual. Two of these were from two to
+three miles in length, and in one instance the surface was
+sufficiently level to allow us to drag the boats for three
+quarters of a mile with the sledges <i>in tow</i>. Our latitude,
+observed at noon of the 30th, was 82&deg; 20' 37", or twelve
+miles and a half to the southward of the preceding day's
+observation, though we had travelled only seven by our account;
+so that the drift of the ice had assisted us in gaining five
+miles and a half in that interval.</p>
+<p>Setting out to continue our journey at five P.M., we could
+discover nothing from a high hummock but the kind of bay-ice
+before noticed, except on the floe on which we had slept. The
+travelling was very laborious, but we were obliged to go on till
+we could get to a secure floe for resting upon, which we could
+not effect till half past four on the 31st, when, in eleven hours
+and a half, we had not made more than two miles and a quarter of
+southing. However, we had the satisfaction, which was denied us
+on our outward journey, of feeling confident that we should keep
+all that we gained, and probably make a good deal more; which,
+indeed, proved to be the case, for at noon we found our latitude,
+by observation, to be 82&deg; 14' 25", or four miles to the
+southward of the reckoning.</p>
+<p>We halted at five A.M. on the 1st of August, the officers and
+men being quite knocked up, and having made by our account only
+two miles of southing over a road not less than five in length.
+As we came along we had seen some recent bear-tracks, and soon
+after discovered Bruin himself. Halting the boats and concealing
+the people behind them, we drew him almost within gun-shot; but,
+after making a great many traverses behind some hummocks, and
+even mounting one of them to examine us more narrowly, he set off
+and escaped&mdash;I must say, to our grievous disappointment; for
+we had already, by anticipation, consigned a tolerable portion of
+his flesh to our cooking kettle, over a fire of his own
+blubber.</p>
+<p>In the course of our journey, on the 2d of August, we met with
+a quantity of snow, tinged, to the depth of several inches, with
+some red colouring matter, of which a portion was preserved in a
+bottle for future examination. This circumstance recalled to our
+recollection our having frequently before, in the course of this
+journey, remarked that the loaded sledges, in passing over hard
+snow, left upon it a light, rose-coloured tint, which, at the
+time, we attributed to the colouring matter being pressed out of
+the birch of which they were made. Today, however, we observed
+that the runners of the, boats, and even our own footsteps,
+exhibited the same appearance; and, on watching it more narrowly
+afterward, we found the same effect to be produced, in a greater
+or less degree, by heavy pressure, on almost all the ice over
+which we passed, though a magnifying glass could detect nothing
+to give it this tinge. Halting at seven A.M. on the 3d, after
+launching and hauling up the boats a great number of times, we
+had not only the comfort of drying all our wet clothes, but were
+even able to wash many of our woollen things, which dried in a
+few hours. The latitude observed at noon was 82&deg; 1' 48", or
+twelve miles and a half, to the southward of our place on the
+31st, which was about three more than our log gave, though there
+had been southing in the wind during the whole interval.</p>
+<p>We proceeded on our journey southward at eight P.M., and were
+again favoured with a clear and beautiful night, though the
+travelling was as slow and laborious as ever, there being
+scarcely a tolerable floe lying in our road. The sun now became
+so much lower at night, that we were seldom annoyed by the glare
+from the snow. It was also a very comfortable change to those who
+had to look out for the road, to have the sun behind us instead
+of facing it, as on our outward journey. We stopped to rest at a
+quarter past six A.M. on the 4th, after accomplishing three miles
+in a south direction, over a troublesome road of nearly twice
+that length. It was almost calm, and to our feelings oppressively
+warm during the day, the thermometer within the boats rising as
+high as 66&deg;, which put our fur dresses nearly "out of
+commission," though the mercury exposed to the sun outside did
+not rise above 39&deg;. Pursuing our journey at eight P.M., we
+paid, as usual, for this comfort by the extreme softness of the
+snow. The upper crust would sometimes support a man's weight for
+a short time, and then suddenly let him down two or three feet,
+so that we could never make sure of our footing for two steps
+together. Several of the men were also suffering much at this
+time from chilblains, which, from the constant wet and cold, as
+well as the irritation in walking, became serious sores, keeping
+them quite lame. With many of our people, also, the epidermis or
+scarfskin peeled off in large flakes, not merely in the face and
+hands, which were exposed to the action of the sun and the
+weather, but in every other part of the body; this, however, was
+attended with no pain, nor with much inconvenience.</p>
+<p>A fat bear crossed over a lane of water to visit us, and,
+approaching the boats within twenty yards, was killed by
+Lieutenant Ross. The scene which followed was laughable, even to
+us who participated in it. Before the animal had done biting the
+snow, one of the men was alongside of him with an open knife;
+and, being asked what he was about to do, replied that he was
+about cut out his heart and liver to put into the pot, which
+happened to be then boiling for our supper. In short, before the
+bear had been dead an hour, all hands of us were employed, to our
+great satisfaction, in discussing the merits, not only of the
+said heart and liver, but a pound per man of the flesh; besides
+which, some or other of the men were constantly frying steaks
+during the whole day, over a large fire made of the blubber. The
+consequence of all this, and other similar indulgences,
+necessarily was, that some of them complained, for several days
+after, of the pains usually arising from indigestion; though they
+all, amusingly enough, attributed this effect to the quality, and
+not the quantity of meat they had eaten. However, notwithstanding
+these excesses at first, we were really thankful for this
+additional supply of meat; for we had observed for some time
+past, that the men were evidently not so strong as before, and
+would be the better for more sustenance.</p>
+<p>The rain continued so hard at our usual time of setting out,
+that I was obliged to delay doing so till six P.M. on the 8th,
+when it ceased a little, after falling hard for twenty-four
+hours, and less violently for twelve more. When we first launched
+the boats, our prospect of making progress seemed no better than
+usual, but we found one small hole of water leading into another
+in so extraordinary a manner, that, though the space in which we
+were rowing seemed always to be coming to an end, we continued to
+creep through narrow passages, and, when we halted to dine at
+half an hour before midnight, had only hauled the boats up once,
+and had made, though by a winding channel, four or five miles of
+southing. This was so unusual a circumstance, that we could not
+help entertaining some hope of our being at no great distance
+from the open sea, which seemed the more probable from our having
+seen seven or eight narwhals, and not less than two hundred
+rotges, a flock of these little birds occurring in every hole of
+water. At noon on the 10th of August, we observed in latitude
+81&deg; 40' 13", which was only four miles to the northward of
+our reckoning from the last observation, although there had been
+almost constantly southing in the wind ever since, and it had
+been blowing strong from that quarter for the last thirty hours.
+This circumstance afforded a last and striking proof of the
+general tendency of the ice to drift southward, about the
+meridians on which we had been travelling. Another bear came
+towards the boats in the course of the day, and was killed. We
+were now so abundantly supplied with meat, that the men would
+again have eaten immoderately had we not interposed the necessary
+authority to prevent them. As it was, our encampment became so
+like an Esquimaux establishment, that we were obliged to shift
+our place upon the floe in the course of the day, for the sake of
+cleanliness and comfort.</p>
+<p>The wind falling towards midnight, we launched the boats at
+half past one A.M. on the 11th, paddling alternately in large
+spaces of clear water and among streams of loose "sailing ice."
+We soon afterward observed such indications of an open sea as
+could not be mistaken, much of the ice being "washed" as by a
+heavy sea, with small rounded fragments thrown on the surface,
+and a good deal of "dirty ice" occurring. After passing through a
+good deal of loose ice, it became gradually more and more open,
+till at length, at a quarter before seven A.M., we heard the
+first sound of the swell under the hollow margins of the ice, and
+in a quarter of an hour had reached the open sea, which was
+dashing with heavy surges against the outer masses. We hauled the
+boats upon one of these, to eat our last meal upon the ice, and
+to complete the necessary supply of water for our little voyage
+to Table Island, from which we were now distant fifty miles, our
+latitude being 81&deg; 34', and longitude 18-1/4&deg; E. A light
+air springing up from the N.W., we again launched the boats, and
+at eight A.M. finally quitted the ice, after having taken up our
+abode upon it for forty-eight days.</p>
+<p>We had some fog during the night, so that we steered entirely
+by compass, according to our last observations by the
+chronometers, which proved so correct, that, at five A.M. on the
+12th, on the clearing up of the haze, we made the island right
+ahead. At eleven A.M. we reached the island, or rather the rock
+to the northward of it, where our provisions had been deposited;
+and I cannot describe the comfort we experienced in once more
+feeling a dry and solid footing. We found that the bears had
+devoured all the bread (one hundred pounds), which occasioned a
+remark among the men, with reference to the quantity of these
+animals' flesh that we had eaten, that "Bruin was only square
+with us." We also found that Lieutenant Crozier had been here
+since we left the island, bringing some materials for repairing
+our boats, as well as various little luxuries to which we had
+lately been strangers, and depositing in a copper cylinder a
+letter from Lieutenant Foster, giving me a detailed account of
+the proceedings of the ship up to the 23d of July. By this I
+learned that the Hecla had been forced on shore on the 7th of
+July, by the breaking-up of the ice at the head of the bay, which
+came down upon her in one solid mass; but, by the unwearied and
+zealous exertions of the officers and men, she had again been
+hove off without incurring the slightest damage, and placed in
+perfect security. Among the supplies with which the anxious care
+of our friends on board had now furnished us, some lemon-juice
+and sugar were not the least acceptable; two or three of the men
+having for some days past suffered from oedematous swellings of
+the legs, and evinced other symptoms apparently scorbutic, but
+which soon improved after administering this valuable
+specific.</p>
+<p>Having got our stores into the boats, we rowed round Table
+Island to look for a place on which to rest, the men being much
+fatigued; but so rugged and inhospitable is this northern rock,
+that not a single spot could we find where the boats could
+possibly be hauled up, or lie afloat in security. I therefore
+determined to take advantage of the freshening of the N.E. wind,
+and to bear up for Walden Island, which we accordingly did at two
+P.M. We had scarcely made, sail when the weather became extremely
+inclement, with a fresh gale and very thick snow, which obscured
+Walden Island from our view. Steering by compass, however, we
+made a good landfall, the boats behaving well in a sea; and at
+seven P.M. landed in the smoothest place we could find under the
+lee of the island. Everything belonging to us was now completely
+drenched by the spray and snow; we had been fifty-six hours
+without rest, and forty-eight at work in the boats, so that, by
+the time they were unloaded, we had barely strength left to haul
+them up on the rock. We noticed, on this occasion, that the men
+had that wildness in their looks which usually accompanies
+excessive fatigue; and, though just as willing as ever to obey
+orders, they seemed at times not to comprehend them. However, by
+dint of great exertion, we managed to get the boats above the
+surf; after which, a hot supper, a blazing fire of driftwood, and
+a few hours' quiet rest, quite restored us.</p>
+<p>The next morning, the 13th, I despatched Lieutenant Ross, with
+a party of hands, to the N.E. part of the island, to launch the
+spare boat, which, according to my directions, Lieutenant Foster
+had sent for our use, and to bring round the stores deposited
+there in readiness for our setting off for Low Island. They found
+everything quite undisturbed; but, by the time they reached us,
+the wind had backed to the westward, and the weather become very
+wet, so that I determined to remain here till it improved.</p>
+<p>At ten A.M. on the 14th, the weather being fine, we launched
+our three boats and left Walden Island; but the wind backing more
+to the westward, we could only fetch into a bay on the opposite
+or southern shore, where we hauled the boats up on very rugged
+rocks, under cliffs about six hundred feet high, and of the same
+granite formation as Walden Island.</p>
+<p>The wind dying away on the morning of the 17th, we once more
+set out for the ship at nine A.M.; but having a second time
+nearly reached Shoal Point, were again met by a strong breeze as
+we opened Waygatz Strait, and were therefore obliged to land upon
+the low shore to the southward of Low Island.</p>
+<p>On the 18th of August the wind increased to a strong breeze
+from the S.W., with rain and sleet, which afterward changed to
+snow in some of the largest flakes I ever saw, completely
+changing the whole aspect of the land from summer to winter in a
+few hours. On the following morning we prepared to move at an
+early hour, but the wind backed more to the westward, and soon
+after increased to a gale, raising so much surf on the beach as
+to oblige us to haul the boats higher up. On the 20th, tired as
+we were of this tedious confinement, and anxious to reach the
+ship, the wind and sea were still too high to allow us to move,
+and it was not till half past seven A.M. on the following day
+that we could venture to launch the boats. Having now, by means
+of the driftwood, converted our paddles into oars, and being
+occasionally favoured by a light breeze, with a perfectly open
+sea, we made tolerable progress, and at half past four P.M. on
+the 21st of August, when within three or four miles of Hecla
+Cove, had the gratification of seeing a boat under sail coming
+out to meet us. Mr. Weir soon joined us in one of the cutters;
+and, after hearing good accounts of the safety of the ship, and
+of the welfare of all on board, together with a variety of
+details, to us of no small interest, we arrived on board at seven
+P.M., after an absence of sixty-one days, being received with
+that warm and cordial welcome which can alone be felt, and not
+described.</p>
+<p>I cannot conclude the account of our proceedings without
+endeavouring to do justice to the cheerful alacrity and unwearied
+zeal displayed by my companions, both officers and men, in the
+course of this excursion; and if steady perseverance and active
+exertion on their parts could have accomplished our object,
+success would undoubtedly have crowned our labours. I must also
+mention, to the credit of the officers of Woolwich dock-yard, who
+took so much pains in the construction of our boats, that,
+notwithstanding the constant and severe trial to which their
+strength had been put&mdash;and a more severe trial could not
+well be devised&mdash;not a timber was sprung, a plank split, or
+the smallest injury sustained by them; they were, indeed, as
+tight and as fit for service when we reached the ship as when
+they were first received on board, and in every respect answered
+the intended purpose admirably.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<br>
+
+<p>On my arrival on board, I learned from Lieutenant Crozier that
+Lieutenant Foster, finding that no farther disturbance from ice
+was to be apprehended, and after making an accurate plan of the
+bay and its neighbourhood, had proceeded on the survey of Waygatz
+Strait, and proposed returning by the 26th of August, the day to
+which I had limited his absence. I found the ship quite ready for
+sea, with the exception of getting on board the launch, with the
+stores deposited by my direction on the beach. Lieutenant
+Foster's report informed me that, after the ship had been hauled
+off the ground, they had again suffered considerable disturbance
+for several days, in consequence of some heavy masses of ice
+driving into the bay, which dragged the anchors, and again
+threatened them with a similar accident. However, after the
+middle of July, no ice had entered the bay, and, what is still
+more remarkable, not a piece had been seen in the offing for some
+weeks past, even after hard northerly and westerly gales.</p>
+<p>On the 22d of August, as soon as our people had enjoyed a good
+night's rest, we commenced bringing the stores on board from the
+beach, throwing out such a quantity of the stone ballast as was
+necessary for trimming the ship; after which the cables and
+hawsers were cast off from the shore, and the ship hauled off to
+single anchor. Lieutenant Foster returned on board on the 24th,
+having surveyed the greater part of the shores of the strait, as
+far to the southward as 79&deg; 33".</p>
+<p>Lieutenant Foster saw some seahorses (narwhals) and white
+whales in the course of this excursion, but no black whales; nor
+did we, in the whole course of the voyage, see any of these,
+except on the ground already frequented by our whalers on the
+western coast of Spitzbergen. It is remarkable, however, that the
+"crown-bones," and other parts of the skeleton of whales, are
+found in most parts where we landed on this coast. The shores of
+the strait, like all the rest in Spitzbergen, are lined with
+immense quantities of driftwood, wherever the nature of the coast
+will allow it to land.</p>
+<p>The animals met with here during the Hecla's stay were
+principally reindeer, bears, foxes, kittiwakes, glaucus and ivory
+gulls, tern, eider-ducks, and a few grouse. Looms and rotges were
+numerous in the offing. Seventy reindeer were killed, chiefly
+very small, and, until the middle of August, not in good
+condition. They were usually met with in herds of from six or
+eight to twenty, and were most abundant on the west and north
+sides of the bay. Three bears were killed, one of which was
+somewhat above the ordinary dimensions, measuring eight feet four
+inches from the snout to the insertion of the tail. The
+vegetation was tolerably abundant, especially on the western side
+of the bay, where the soil is good; a considerable collection of
+plants, as well as minerals, was made by Mr. Halse, and of birds
+by Mr. M'Cormick.</p>
+<p>The neighbourhood of this bay, like most of the northern
+shores of Spitzbergen, appears to have been much visited by the
+Dutch at a very early period; of which circumstance records are
+furnished on almost every spot where we landed, by the numerous
+graves which we met with. There are thirty of these on a point of
+land on the north side of the bay.<a name=
+'FNanchor_023_23'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_023_23'><sup>[023]</sup></a> The bodies are usually
+deposited in an oblong wooden coffin, which, on account of the
+difficulty of digging the ground, is not buried, but merely
+covered by large stones; and a board is generally placed near the
+head, having, either cut or painted upon it, the name of the
+deceased, with those of his ship and commander, and the month and
+year of his burial. Several of these were fifty or sixty years
+old; one bore the date of 1738; and another, which I found on the
+beach to the eastward of Hecla Cove, that of 1690; the
+inscription distinctly appearing in prominent relief, occasioned
+by the preservation of the wood by the paint, while the unpainted
+part had decayed around it.</p>
+<p>The officers who remained on board the Hecla during the summer
+described the weather as the most beautiful, and the climate
+altogether the most agreeable, they had ever experienced in the
+Polar Regions. Indeed, the Meteorological Journal shows a
+temperature, both of the air and of the sea water, to which we
+had before been altogether strangers within the Arctic Circle,
+and which goes far towards showing that the climate of
+Spitzbergen is a remarkably temperate one for its latitude.<a
+name='FNanchor_024_24'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_024_24'><sup>[024]</sup></a> It must, however, be
+observed, that this remark is principally applicable to the
+weather experienced <i>near the land</i>, that at sea being
+rendered of a totally different character by the almost continual
+presence of fogs; so that some of our most gloomy days upon the
+ice were among the finest in Hecla Cove, where, however, a good
+deal of rain fell in the course of the summer.</p>
+<p>The Hecla was ready for sea on the 25th of August; but the
+wind blowing fresh from the northward and westward prevented our
+moving till the evening of the 28th, when, the weather improving,
+we got under way from Hecla Cove, and, being favoured with a
+light air from the S.E., stood along the coast to the westward.
+On the evening of the 29th, when off Red Beach, we got on board
+our boat and other stores which had been left there, finding them
+undisturbed and in good order. The weather was beautifully fine,
+and the sun (to us for the first time for about four months) just
+dipped his lower limb into the sea at midnight, and then rose
+again. It was really wonderful to see that, upon this whole
+northern coast of Spitzbergen, where in May and June not a "hole"
+of clear water could be found, it would now have been equally
+difficult to discover a single mass of ice in any direction. This
+absence of ice now enabled us to see Moffen Island, which is so
+low and flat that it was before entirely hidden from our view by
+the hummocks. On rounding Hakluyt's Headland on the 30th, we came
+at once into a long swell, such as occurs only in places exposed
+to the whole range of the ocean, and, except a small or loose
+stream or two, we after this saw no more ice of any kind. On the
+31st we were off Prince Charles's Foreland, the middle part of
+which, about Cape Sietoe, appeared to be much the highest land we
+had seen in Spitzbergen; rising probably to an elevation of above
+four thousand feet.</p>
+<p>We had favourable winds to carry us clear of Spitzbergen; but
+after the 3d of September, and between the parallels of 70&deg;
+and 60&deg;, were detained by continual southerly and
+southwesterly breezes for a fortnight. On the evening of the 17th
+we made Shetland, and on the following day, being close off Balta
+Sound, and the wind blowing strong from the S.W., I anchored in
+the Voe at two P.M., to wait a more favourable breeze. We were
+here received by all that genuine hospitality for which the
+inhabitants of this northern part of the British dominions are so
+justly distinguished, and we gladly availed ourselves of the
+supplies with which their kindness furnished us.</p>
+<p>Early on the morning of the 19th of September, the wind
+suddenly shifted to the N.N.W., and almost immediately blew so
+strong a gale that we could not safely cast the ship until the
+evening, when we got under way and proceeded to the southward;
+but had not proceeded farther than Fair Island, when, after a few
+hours' calm, we were once more met by a southerly wind. Against
+this we continued to beat till the morning of the 23d, when,
+finding that we made but little progress, and that there was no
+appearance of an alteration of wind, I determined to put into
+Long Hope, in the Orkney Islands, to await a change in our
+favour, and accordingly ran in and anchored there as soon as the
+tide would permit.</p>
+<p>We found lying here his majesty's revenue cutter the
+Chichester; and Mr. Stuart, her commander, who was bound direct
+to Inverness, came on board as soon as we had anchored, to offer
+his services in any manner which might be useful. The wind died
+away in the course of the night of the 24th, and was succeeded on
+the following morning by a light air from the northward, when we
+immediately got under way; but had not entered the Pentland
+Firth, when it again fell calm and then backed to the southward,
+rendering it impossible to make any progress in that direction
+with a dull-sailing ship. I therefore determined on returning
+with the Hecla to the anchorage, and then taking advantage of Mr.
+Stuart's offer; and accordingly left the ship at eight A.M.,
+accompanied by Mr. Beverly, to proceed to Inverness in the
+Chichester, and from thence by land to London, in order to lay
+before his royal highness the lord high admiral, without farther
+delay, an account of our proceedings. By the zealous exertions of
+Mr. Stuart, for which I feel greatly obliged to that gentleman,
+we arrived off Fort George the following morning, and, landing at
+Inverness at noon, immediately set off for London, and arrived at
+the Admiralty on the morning of the 29th of September.</p>
+<p>Owing to the continuance of southerly winds, the Hecla did not
+arrive in the river Thames until the 6th of October, when I was
+sorry, though not surprised, to learn the death of Mr. George
+Crawford, the Greenland master, who departed this life on the
+29th of September, sincerely lamented by all who knew him, as a
+zealous, active, and enterprising seaman, and an amiable and
+deserving man. Mr. Crawford had accompanied us in five successive
+voyages to the Polar Seas, and I truly regret the occasion which
+demands from me this public testimony of the value of his
+services and the excellence of his character.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<br>
+
+<p>Having finished my Narrative of this Attempt to reach the
+North Pole, I may perhaps be permitted, in conclusion, to offer
+such remarks as have lately occurred to me on the nature and
+practicability of the enterprise.</p>
+<p>That the object is of still more difficult attainment than was
+before supposed, even by those persons who were the best
+qualified to judge of it, will, I believe, appear evident from a
+perusal of the foregoing pages; nor can I, after much
+consideration and some experience of the various difficulties
+which belong to it, recommend any material improvement in the
+plan lately adopted. Among the various schemes suggested for this
+purpose, it has been proposed to set out from Spitzbergen, and to
+make a rapid journey to the northward with sledges or
+sledge-boats, drawn wholly by dogs or reindeer; but, however
+feasible this plan may at first sight appear, I cannot say that
+our late experience of the nature of the ice which they would
+probably have to encounter has been at all favourable to it. It
+would, of course, be a matter of extreme imprudence to set out on
+this enterprise without the means of crossing, not merely narrow
+pools and "lanes," but more extensive spaces of open water, such
+as we met with between the margin of the ice and the Spitzbergen
+shores; and I do not conceive that any boat sufficiently large to
+be efficient and safe for this purpose could possibly be managed
+upon the ice, were the power employed to give it motion dependant
+on dogs or reindeer. On the contrary, it was a frequent subject
+of remark among the officers, that reason was a qualification
+scarcely less indispensable than strength and activity in
+travelling over such a road; daily instances occurring of our
+having to pass over difficult places, which no other animal than
+man could have been easily prevailed upon to attempt. Indeed, the
+constant necessity of launching and hauling up the boats (which
+operations we had frequently to perform eight or ten, and, on one
+occasion, seventeen times in the same day) would alone render it
+inexpedient, in my opinion, to depend chiefly upon animals; for
+it would certainly require more time and labour to get them into
+and out of the boats, than their services in the intervals, or
+their flesh ultimately used as food, would be worth; especially
+when it is considered how large a weight of provender must be
+carried for their own subsistence.<a name=
+'FNanchor_025_25'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_025_25'><sup>[025]</sup></a></p>
+<p>In case of employing reindeer, which, from their strength,
+docility, and hardy habits, appear the best suited to this kind
+of travelling, there would be an evident advantage in setting out
+much earlier in the year than we did; perhaps about the end of
+April, when the ice is less broken up, and the snow much harder
+upon its surface than at a more advanced part of the season. But
+this, it must be recollected, would involve the necessity of
+passing the previous winter on the northern coast of Spitzbergen,
+which, even under favourable circumstances, would probably tend
+to weaken in some degree the energies of the men; while, on the
+other hand, it would be next to impossible to procure there a
+supply of provender for a number of tame reindeer, sufficient
+even to keep them alive, much less in tolerable condition, during
+a whole winter. In addition to this, it may be observed, that any
+party setting out earlier must be provided with a much greater
+weight of warm clothing in order to guard against the severity of
+cold, and also with an increased proportion of fuel for procuring
+water by the melting of snow, there being no fresh water upon the
+ice in these latitudes before the month of June.</p>
+<p>In the kind of provisions proper to be employed in such
+enterprises&mdash;a very important consideration, where almost
+the whole difficulty may be said to resolve itself into a
+question of weight&mdash;I am not aware that any improvement
+could be made upon that with which we were furnished; for I know
+of none which appears to contain so much nutriment in so small a
+weight and compass. It may be useful, however, to remark, as the
+result of absolute experience, that our daily allowance of
+provisions,<a name='FNanchor_026_26'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_026_26'><sup>[026]</sup></a> although previously tried
+for some days on board the ship, and then considered to be
+enough, proved by no means sufficient to support the strength of
+men living constantly in the open air, exposed to wet and cold
+for at least twelve hours a day, seldom enjoying the luxury of a
+warm meal, and having to perform the kind of labour to which our
+people were subject. I have before remarked, that, previously to
+our return to the ship, our strength was considerably impaired;
+and, indeed, there is reason to believe that, very soon after
+entering upon the ice, the physical energies of the men were
+gradually diminishing, although, for the first few weeks, they
+did not appear to labour under any specific complaint. This
+diminution of strength, which we considered to be principally
+owing to the want of sufficient sustenance, became apparent, even
+after a fortnight, in the lifting of the bread-bags and other
+heavy weights; and I have no doubt that, in spite of every care
+on the part of the officers, as well as Mr. Beverly's skilful and
+humane attention to their ailments, some of the men, who had
+begun to fail before we quitted the ice, would, in a week or two
+longer, have suffered very severely, and become a serious
+encumbrance, instead of an assistance, to our party. As far as we
+were able to judge, without farther trial, Mr. Beverly and myself
+were of opinion that, in order to maintain the strength of men
+thus employed for several weeks together, an addition would be
+requisite of at least one third more to the provisions which we
+daily issued. I need scarcely remark how much this would increase
+the difficulty of equipping such an expedition.</p>
+<p>I cannot dismiss the subject of this enterprise without
+attempting to explain, as far as I am able, how it may have
+happened that the ice over which we passed was found to answer so
+little to the description of that observed by the respectable
+authorities quoted in a former part of this volume.<a name=
+'FNanchor_027_27'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_027_27'><sup>[027]</sup></a> It frequently occurred to
+us, in the course of our daily journeys, that this may, in some
+degree, have arisen from our navigators' having generally viewed
+the ice from a considerable height. The only clear and commanding
+view on board a ship is that from the crow's-nest; and Phipps's
+most important remarks concerning the nature of the ice to the
+north of Spitzbergen were made from a station several hundred
+feet above the sea; and, as it is well known how much the most
+experienced eye may thus be deceived, it is possible enough that
+the irregularities which cost us so much time and labour may,
+when viewed in this manner, have entirely escaped notice, and the
+whole surface have appeared one smooth and level plain.</p>
+<p>It is, moreover, possible, that the broken state in which we
+unexpectedly found the ice may have arisen, at least in part,
+from an unusually wet season, preceded, perhaps, by a winter of
+less than ordinary severity. Of the latter we have no means of
+judging, there being no record, that I am aware of, of the
+temperature of that or any other winter passed in the higher
+latitudes; but, on comparing our Meteorological Register with
+some others kept during the corresponding season and about the
+same latitude,<a name='FNanchor_028_28'></a><a href=
+'#Footnote_028_28'><sup>[028]</sup></a> it does appear that,
+though no material difference is observable in the mean
+temperature of the atmosphere, the quantity of rain which we
+experienced is considerably greater than usual; and it is well
+known how very rapidly ice is dissolved by a fall of rain. At all
+events, from whatever cause it may have arisen, it is certain
+that, about the meridian on which we proceeded northward in the
+boats, the sea was in a totally different state from what Phipps
+experienced, as may be seen from comparing our accounts&mdash;his
+ship being closely beset, near the Seven Islands, for several
+days about the beginning of August; whereas the Hecla, in the
+beginning of June, sailed about in the same neighbourhood without
+obstruction, and, before the close of July, not a piece of ice
+could be seen from Little Table Island.</p>
+<p>I may add, in conclusion, that, before the middle of August,
+when we left the ice in our boats, a ship might have sailed to
+the latitude, of 82&deg; almost without touching a piece of ice;
+and it was the general opinion among us, that, by the end of that
+month, it would probably have been no very difficult matter to
+reach the parallel of 83&deg;, about the meridian of the Seven
+Islands.</p>
+<br>
+
+<p>THE END.</p>
+<hr style='width: 45%;'>
+<br>
+
+<p>FOOTNOTES</p>
+<a name='Footnote_001_1'></a><a href='#FNanchor_001_1'>[001]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>This name being applied by the Esquimaux to several other
+portions of land, all of which are insular, or nearly so, it is
+probable that the word simply signifies an island.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_002_2'></a><a href='#FNanchor_002_2'>[002]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>The expression "fixed ice" appearing better suited to our
+present obstacle than that of "land ice," I shall in future adopt
+it in speaking of this barrier.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_003_3'></a><a href='#FNanchor_003_3'>[003]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>Lest it should be thought that this account is exaggerated, I
+may here state, that, as a matter of curiosity, we one day tried
+how much a lad, scarcely full grown, would, if freely supplied,
+consume in this way. The under-mentioned articles were weighed
+before being given to him; he was twenty hours in getting through
+them, and certainly did not consider the quantity
+extraordinary.</p>
+</div>
+<pre>
+                                      lb.   oz.
+  Seahorse flesh, hard frozen          4     4
+  Ditto,     boiled                    4     4
+  Bread and bread-dust                 1    12
+                                      ________
+
+        Total of solids               10     4
+  The Fluids were in fair proportion, viz.:
+  Rich gravy-soup                      1-1/4 pint.
+  Raw spirits                          3 wine glasses.
+  Strong grog.                         1 tumbler.
+  Water                                1 gallon 1 pint.
+</pre>
+<br>
+<a name='Footnote_004_4'></a><a href='#FNanchor_004_4'>[004]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>We have since heard that these ships were the Dexterity, of
+Leith, and the Aurora, of Hull, which were wrecked on the 28th of
+August, 1821, about the latitude of 72&deg;.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_005_5'></a><a href='#FNanchor_005_5'>[005]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>A fine lad, of about sixteen, being one day out in a boat with
+one of our gentlemen at Arlagnuk, reminded him, with a serious
+face, that he had laid a gun down <i>full-cocked</i>. There
+happened to be no charge in the gun at the time; but this was a
+proof of the attention the boy had paid to the art of using
+firearms, as well as an instance of considerate and manly
+caution, scarcely to have been expected in an individual of that
+age.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_006_6'></a><a href='#FNanchor_006_6'>[006]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>Most Greenland sailors use these; but many persons, both
+officers and men, have an absurd prejudice against what they call
+"wearing stays."</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_007_7'></a><a href='#FNanchor_007_7'>[007]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>It is remarkable that this poor man had, twice before, within
+the space of nine months, been very near death; for, besides the
+accident already mentioned, of falling down the hill when
+escaping from the bear, he was also in imminent danger of dying
+of dropsy during the winter.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_008_8'></a><a href='#FNanchor_008_8'>[008]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>This birch, they said, had been procured from the southward by
+way of <i>Noowook</i>. We never met with any of the same kind in
+those parts of the country which we visited, except that observed
+by Captain Lyon in the deserted habitations of the Esquimaux near
+Five Hawser Bay.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_009_9'></a><a href='#FNanchor_009_9'>[009]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>Toolooak, who was a frequent visitor at the young gentlemen's
+mess-table on board the Fury, once evinced this taste, and no
+small cunning at the same time, by asking alternately for a
+little more bread and a little more butter, till he had made a
+hearty meal.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_010_10'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_010_10'>[010]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>Cervical, 7; dorsal, 13; lumbar, 7; sacral, 3; caudal, 19.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_011_11'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_011_11'>[011]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>Cartwright's <i>Labrador</i>, iii., 232.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_012_12'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_012_12'>[012]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>Ledyard. <i>Proceedings of the African Association</i>, vol i,
+p. 30.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_013_13'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_013_13'>[013]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>The first travelling boat, which was built by way of
+experiment, was planked differently from these two; the planks,
+which were of half-inch oak, being ingeniously "tongued" together
+with copper, in order to save the necessity of caulking in case
+of the wood shrinking. This was the boat subsequently landed on
+Red Beach.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_014_14'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_014_14'>[014]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>This article of our equipment contains a large proportion of
+nutriment in a small weight and compass, and is therefore
+invaluable on such occasions. The process, which requires great
+attention, consists in drying large thin slices of the lean of
+the meat over the smoke of wood-fires, then pounding it, and
+lastly mixing it with about an equal weight of its own fat. In
+this state it is quite ready for use, without farther
+cooking.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_015_15'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_015_15'>[015]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>The merits of this simple but valuable invention being now too
+well known to require any detailed account of the experiments, it
+is only necessary for me to remark, in this place, that the
+compass, having the plate attached to it, gave, under all
+circumstances, the correct magnetic bearing.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_016_16'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_016_16'>[016]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>It is remarkable, that the Esquimaux word for boot is very
+like this&mdash;Kameega.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_017_17'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_017_17'>[017]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>I find it to be the universal opinion among the most
+experienced of our whalers, that there is much less ice met with,
+of late years, in getting to the northward, in these latitudes,
+than formerly was the case. Mr. Scoresby, to whose very valuable
+local information, contained in his "Account of the Arctic
+Regions," I have been greatly indebted on this occasion, mentions
+the circumstance as a generally received fact.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_018_18'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_018_18'>[018]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>It was probably some such gale as this which has given to
+Hakluyt's Headland, in an old Dutch chart, the appellation of
+"Duyvel's Hoek."</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_019_19'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_019_19'>[019]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>I have been thus particular in noticing the Hecla's position,
+because our observations would appear to be, with one exception,
+the most northern on record at that time. The Commissioners of
+Longitude, in their memorial to the king in council, in the year
+1821, consider that the "progress of discovery has not arrived
+northward, according to any well-authenticated accounts, so far
+as eighty-one degrees of north latitude." Mr. Scoresby states his
+having observed in lat. 81&deg; 12' 42".</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_020_20'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_020_20'>[020]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>Had we succeeded in reaching the higher latitudes, where the
+change of the sun's altitude during the twenty-four hours is
+still less perceptible, it would have been essentially necessary
+to possess the certain means of knowing this; since an error of
+twelve hours of time would have carried us, when we intended to
+return, on a meridian opposite to, or 180&deg; from, the right
+one. To obviate the possibility of this, we had some chronometers
+constructed by Messrs. Parkinson and Frodsham, of which the
+hour-hand made only one revolution in the day, the twenty-four
+hours being marked round the dial-plate.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_021_21'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_021_21'>[021]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>I may here mention, that, notwithstanding the heavy blows
+which the boats were constantly receiving, all our nautical and
+astronomical instruments were taken back to the ship without
+injury. This circumstance makes it, perhaps, worth while to
+explain, that they were lashed upon a wooden platform in the
+after locker of each boat, sufficiently small to be clear of the
+boat's sides, and playing on strong springs of whalebone, which
+entirely obviated the effects of the severe concussions to which
+they would otherwise have been subject.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_022_22'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_022_22'>[022]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>We found the best preservative against this glare to be a pair
+of spectacles, having the glass of a bluish-green colour, and
+with side-screens to them.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_023_23'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_023_23'>[023]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>Perhaps the name of this bay, from the Dutch word
+<i>Treuren</i>, "to lament, or be mournful," may have some
+reference to the graves found here.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_024_24'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_024_24'>[024]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>Mr. Crowe, of Hammerfest, who lately passed a winter on the
+southwestern coast of Spitzbergen, in about latitude 78&deg;,
+informed me that he had <i>rain at Christmas</i>; a phenomenon
+which would indeed have astonished us at any of our former
+wintering stations in a much lower latitude. Perhaps the
+circumstance of the reindeer wintering at Spitzbergen may also be
+considered a proof of a comparatively temperate climate.</p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_025_25'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_025_25'>[025]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p><a name='a003_2'></a><a href='#a003'>See p. 254 of this
+volume.</a></p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_026_26'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_026_26'>[026]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p><a name='a002_2'></a><a href='#a002'>See p. 280 of this
+volume.</a></p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_027_27'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_027_27'>[027]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p><a name='a001_2'></a><a href='#a001'>See Introduction.</a></p>
+</div>
+<a name='Footnote_028_28'></a><a href=
+'#FNanchor_028_28'>[028]</a>
+<div class='note'>
+<p>Particularly that of Mr. Scoresby during the month of July,
+from 1812 to 1818 inclusive, and Captain Franklin's for July and
+August, 1818.</p>
+</div>
+<br>
+<br>
+<hr class="full" noshade>
+<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THREE VOYAGES FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A NORTHWEST PASSAGE FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC, AND NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NORTH POLE, VOLUME 2 (OF 2)***</p>
+<p>******* This file should be named 14350-h.txt or 14350-h.zip *******</p>
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Three Voyages for the Discovery of a
+Northwest Passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and Narrative of an
+Attempt to Reach the North Pole, Volume 2 (of 2), by Sir William Edward
+Parry
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Three Voyages for the Discovery of a Northwest Passage from the
+Atlantic to the Pacific, and Narrative of an Attempt to Reach the North
+Pole, Volume 2 (of 2)
+
+Author: Sir William Edward Parry
+
+Release Date: December 14, 2004  [eBook #14350]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THREE VOYAGES FOR THE DISCOVERY OF
+A NORTHWEST PASSAGE FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC, AND NARRATIVE OF AN
+ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NORTH POLE, VOLUME 2 (OF 2)***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Robert Connal, David Gundry, and the Project Gutenberg
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team from images generously made available
+by the Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note:
+   The character = preceeding a vowel is used to indicate that the
+   vowel is to be pronounced long.
+   The character ~ preceeding a vowel is used to indicate that the
+   vowel is to be pronounced short.
+   These characters do not occur otherwise.
+
+
+
+
+
+THREE VOYAGES FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A NORTHWEST PASSAGE FROM THE ATLANTIC
+TO THE PACIFIC, AND NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NORTH POLE,
+VOLUME II
+
+by
+
+SIR W. E. PARRY, CAPT. R.N., F.R.S.
+
+In Two Volumes.
+
+1844
+
+New-York:
+Harper & Brothers, 82 Cliff-Street.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+OF
+
+THE SECOND VOLUME.
+
+
+
+
+
+SECOND VOYAGE
+
+CONTINUED.
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+    Departure from Winter Island.--Meet with some Esquimaux travelling
+    to the Northward.--Obstruction and Danger from the Ice and
+    Tides.--Discovery of the Barrow River, and its Fall.--Favourable
+    Passage to the Northward.--Arrival off the Strait of the Fury and
+    Hecla.--Progress opposed by a fixed barrier of Ice.--Communicate
+    with the Natives of Igloolik.--Unsuccessful Attempt to get between
+    the Ice and the Land.--Land upon the Calthorpe Islands.--The Fury
+    drifted by the Ice between two Islands.--Account of a Journey
+    performed in Sledges up an Inlet to the Westward.
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+    A Whale killed.--Other Charts drawn by the Esquimaux.--Account of a
+    Journey to the Narrows of the Strait.--Discovery of the Sea to the
+    Westward.--Total Disruption of the Ice at the Eastern Entrance of
+    the Strait.--Instance of local Attraction on the Compasses.--Sail
+    through the Narrows, and again stopped by fixed Ice.--Account of
+    several Land Journeys and Boat Excursions.--Observations on the
+    Tides.--Continued Obstacles from fixed Ice.
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+    A Journey performed along the South Shore of Cockburn
+    Island.--Confirmation of an Outlet to the Polar Sea.--Partial
+    Disruption of the Old Ice, and formation of New.--Return through
+    the Narrows to the Eastward.--Proceed to examine the Coast to the
+    Northeastward.--Fury's Anchor broken.--Stand over to Igloolik to
+    look for Winter-quarters.--Excursion to the Head of Quilliam
+    Creek.--Ships forced to the Westward by Gales of Wind.--A Canal
+    sawed through the Ice, and the Ships secured in their Winter
+    Station.--Continued Visits of the Esquimaux, and Arrival of some of
+    the Winter Island Tribe.--Proposed Plan of Operations in the ensuing
+    Spring.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+    Preparations for the Winter.--Various Meteorological Phenomena to
+    the close of the year 1822.--Sickness among the
+    Esquimaux.--Meteorological Phenomena to the end of March.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+    Various Journeys to the Esquimaux Stations.--Preparations for the
+    Hecla's Return to England.--Remarkable Halos, &c.--Shooting Parties
+    stationed at Arlagnuk.--Journeys to Quilliam Creek.--Arrival of
+    Esquimaux from the Northward.--Account of a Journey to the Westward
+    for the purpose of reaching the Polar Sea.--The Esquimaux report two
+    Fishing-ships having been Wrecked.--A Journey performed to Cockburn
+    Island.--Discovery of Murray Maxwell Inlet
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+    Extraordinary Disruption of Ice in Quilliam Creek.--Some Appearance
+    of Scurvy among the Seamen and Marines--Discovery of Gifford
+    River.--Commence cutting the Ice outside the Ships to release them
+    from their Winter-quarters.--Considerations respecting the Return of
+    the Expedition to England.--Unfavourable State of the Ice at the
+    Eastern Entrance of the Strait.--Proceed to the Southward.--Ships
+    beset and drifted up Lyon Inlet.--Decease of Mr. George Fife.--Final
+    Release from the Ice, and Arrival in England.--Remarks upon the
+    practicability of a Northwest Passage.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THIRD VOYAGE
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+    Passage to the Whale-fish Islands, and Removal of Stores from the
+    Transport.--Enter the Ice in Baffin's Bay.--Difficulties of
+    Penetrating to the Westward.--Quit the Ice in Baffin's Bay.--Remarks
+    on the Obstructions encountered by the Ships, and on the Severity of
+    the Season.
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+    Enter Sir James Lancaster's Sound.--Land at Cape Warrender.--Meet
+    with young Ice.--Ships beset and carried near the Shore.--Driven
+    back to Navy-board Inlet.--Run to the Westward, and enter Prince
+    Regent's Inlet.--Arrival at Port Bowen.
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+    Winter Arrangements.--Improvements in Warming and Ventilating the
+    Ships.--Masquerades adopted as an Amusement to the
+    Men.--Establishment of Schools.--Astronomical
+    Observations.--Meteorological Phenomena
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+    Re-equipment of the Ships.--Several Journeys undertaken.--Open Water
+    in the Offing.--Commence sawing a Canal to liberate the
+    Ships.--Disruption of the Ice.--Departure from Port Bowen.
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+    Sail over towards the Western Coast of Prince Regent's
+    Inlet.--Stopped by the Ice.--Reach the Shore about Cape
+    Seppings.--Favourable Progress along the Land.--Fresh and repeated
+    Obstructions from Ice.--Both Ships driven on Shore.--Fury seriously
+    damaged.--Unsuccessful Search for a Harbour for heaving her down to
+    repair.
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+    Formation of a Basin for heaving the Fury down.--Landing of the
+    Fury's Stores, and other Preparations.--The Ships secured within the
+    Basin.--Impediments from the Pressure of the Ice.--Fury, hove
+    down.--Securities of the Basin destroyed by a Gale of
+    Wind.--Preparations to tow the Fury out.--Hecla Re-equipped, and
+    obliged to put to Sea.--Fury again driven on Shore.--Rejoin the
+    Fury; and find it necessary finally to abandon her.
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+    Some Remarks upon the Loss of the Fury--And on the Natural History,
+    &c, of the Coast of North Somerset.--Arrive at Neill's
+    Harbour.--Death of John Page.--Leave Neill's Harbour.--Recross the
+    Ice in Baffin's Bay.--Heavy Gales.--Temperature of the Sea.--Arrival
+    in England.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ACCOUNT OF THE ESQUIMAUX
+
+NARRATIVE OF AN ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NORTH POLE IN BOATS
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+SECOND VOYAGE
+
+FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A
+
+NORTHWEST PASSAGE.
+
+CONTINUED.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+    Departure from Winter Island.--Meet with some Esquimaux travelling
+    to the Northward.--Obstruction and Danger from the Ice and
+    Tides.--Discovery of the Barrow River, and its Fall.--Favourable
+    Passage to the Northward.--Arrival off the Strait of the Fury and
+    Hecla.--Progress opposed by a fixed barrier of Ice.--Communicate
+    with the Natives of Igloolik.--Unsuccessful Attempt to get between
+    the Ice and the Land--Land upon the Calthorpe Islands.--The Fury
+    drifted by the Ice between two Islands.--Account of a Journey
+    performed in Sledges up an Inlet to the westward.
+
+
+
+
+The gale, which had for some time been blowing from the northward,
+veered to the N.W.b.W., and increased in strength on the 1st of July,
+which soon began to produce the effect of drifting the ice off the land.
+At six o'clock on the 2d, the report from the hill being favourable, and
+the wind and weather now also sufficiently so, we moved out of our
+winter's dock, which was, indeed, in part broken to pieces by the swell
+that had lately set into the bay. At seven we made sail, with a fresh
+breeze from W.N.W., and having cleared the rocks at the entrance of the
+bay, ran quickly to the northward and eastward. The ice in the offing
+was of the "hummocky" kind, and drifting rapidly about with the tides,
+leaving us a navigable channel varying in width from two miles to three
+or four hundred yards.
+
+The closeness of the ice again obliging us to make fast on the 3d, we
+soon after perceived a party of people with a sledge upon the land-floe.
+I therefore sent Mr. Bushnan, with some of our men, to meet them and to
+bring them on board, being desirous of ascertaining whereabout,
+according to their geography, we now were. We found the party to
+consist, as we expected, of those who had taken leave of us forty days
+before on their departure to the northward, and who now readily
+accompanied our people to the ships; leaving only Togolat's idiot-boy by
+the sledge, tying him to a dog and the dog to the ice. As soon as they
+came under the bows, they halted in a line, and, according to their
+former promise, gave three cheers, which salutation a few of us on the
+forecastle did not fail to return. As soon as they got on board they
+expressed extreme joy at seeing us again, repeated each of our names
+with great earnestness, and were, indeed, much gratified by this
+unexpected encounter. Ewerat being now mounted on the plank which goes
+across the gunwales of our ships for conning them conveniently among the
+ice, explained, in a very clear and pilot-like manner, that the island
+which we observed to lie off Cape Wilson was that marked by Iligliuk in
+one of her charts, and there called _Awlikteewik_, pronounced by Ewerat
+_Ow-l=itt~ee-week_. On asking how many days' journey it was still to
+Amitioke, they all agreed in saying ten; and back to Winter Island
+_oon=o=oktoot_ (a great many), so that we had good reason to hope we
+were not far from the former place. I may at once remark, however, that
+great caution is requisite in judging of the information these people
+give of the distances from one place to another, as expressed by the
+number of _se=eniks_ (sleeps) or days' journeys, to which, in other
+countries, a definite value is affixed. No two Esquimaux will give the
+same account in this respect, though each is equally desirous of
+furnishing correct information; for, besides their deficiency as
+arithmeticians, which renders the enumeration of ten a labour, and of
+fifteen almost an impossibility to many of them, each individual forms
+his idea of the distance according to the season of the year, and,
+consequently, the mode of travelling in which his own journey has been
+performed. Instances of this kind will be observed in the charts of the
+Esquimaux, in which they not only differ from each other in this
+respect, but the same individual differs from himself at different
+times. It is only, therefore, by a careful comparison of the various
+accounts, and by making allowances for the different circumstances under
+which the journeys have been made, that these apparent inconsistencies
+can be reconciled, and an approximation to the truth obtained.
+
+Many of our officers and men cordially greeted these poor people as old
+acquaintances they were glad to see again, and they were loaded, as
+usual, with numerous presents, of which the only danger to be
+apprehended was lest they should go mad on account of them. The women
+screamed in a convulsive manner at everything they received, and cried
+for five minutes together with the excess of their joy; and to the
+honour of "John Bull" be it recorded, he sent by one of the men as he
+left the ship a piece of sealskin, as a present to _Parree_, being the
+first offering of real gratitude, and without any expectation of return,
+that I had ever received from any of them. I never saw them express more
+surprise than on being assured that we had left Winter Island only a
+single day; a circumstance which might well excite their wonder,
+considering that they had themselves been above forty in reaching our
+present station. They had obtained one reindeer, and had now a large
+seal on their sledge, to which we added a quantity of bread-dust, that
+seemed acceptable enough to them. As our way lay in the same direction
+as theirs, I would gladly have taken their whole establishment on board
+the ships to convey them to Amitioke, but for the uncertain nature of
+this navigation, which might eventually have put it out of my power to
+land them at the precise place of their destination. The ice again
+opening, we were now obliged to dismiss them, after half an hour's
+visit, when, having run to the Hecla's bows to see Captain Lyon and his
+people, they returned to their sledge as fast as their loads of presents
+would allow them.
+
+We continued our progress northward, contending with the flood-tide and
+the drifting masses of ice; and the difficulties of such a navigation
+may be conceived from the following description of what happened to us
+on the 9th.
+
+At half past eight on the morning of the 9th, a considerable space of
+open water being left to the northward of us by the ice that had broken
+off the preceding night, I left the Fury in a boat for the purpose of
+sounding along the shore in that direction, in readiness for moving
+whenever the Hecla should be enabled to rejoin us. I found the soundings
+regular in almost every part, and had just landed to obtain a view from
+an eminence, when I was recalled by a signal from the Fury, appointed to
+inform me of the approach of any ice. On my return, I found the external
+body once more in rapid motion to the southward with the flood-tide, and
+assuming its usual threatening appearance. For an hour or two the Fury
+was continually grazed, and sometimes heeled over by a degree of
+pressure which, under any other circumstances, would not have been
+considered a moderate one, but which the last two or three days'
+navigation had taught us to disregard, when compared with what we had
+reason almost every moment to expect. A little before noon a heavy floe,
+some miles in length, being probably a part of that lately detached from
+the shore, came driving down fast towards us, giving us serious reason
+to apprehend some more fatal catastrophe than any we had yet
+encountered. In a few minutes it came in contact, at the rate of a mile
+and a half an hour, with a point of the land-ice left the preceding
+night by its own separation, breaking it up with a tremendous crash, and
+forcing numberless immense masses, perhaps many tons in weight, to the
+height of fifty or sixty feet, from whence they again rolled down on the
+inner or land side, and were quickly succeeded by a fresh supply. While
+we were obliged to be quiet spectators of this grand but terrific
+sight, being within five or six hundred yards of the point, the danger
+to ourselves was twofold; first, lest the floe should now swing in, and
+serve us much in the same manner; and, secondly, lest its pressure
+should detach the land-ice to which we were secured, and thus set us
+adrift and at the mercy of the tides. Happily, however, neither of these
+occurred, the floe remaining stationary for the rest of the tide, and
+setting off with the ebb which made soon after. In the mean while the
+Hecla had been enabled to get under sail, and was making considerable
+progress towards us, which determined me to move the Fury as soon as
+possible from her present situation into the bight I had sounded in the
+morning, where we made fast in five and a half fathoms alongside some
+very heavy grounded ice, one third of a mile from a point of land lying
+next to the northward of Cape Wilson, and which is low for a short
+distance next the sea. At nine o'clock a large mass of ice fell off the
+land-floe and struck our stern; and a "calf" lying under it, having lost
+its superincumbent weight, rose to the surface with considerable force,
+lifting our rudder violently in its passage, but doing no material
+injury.
+
+On the 12th, observing an opening in the land like a river, I left the
+ship in a boat to examine the soundings of the coast. On approaching the
+opening, we found so strong a current setting out of it as to induce me
+to taste the water, which proved scarcely brackish; and a little closer
+in, perfectly fresh, though the depth was from fourteen to fifteen
+fathoms. As this stream was a sufficient security against any ice coming
+in, I determined to anchor the ships somewhere in its neighbourhood;
+and, having laid down a buoy in twelve fathoms, off the north point of
+the entrance, returned on board, when I found all the boats ahead
+endeavouring to tow the ships in-shore. This could be effected, however,
+only by getting them across the stream of the inlet to the northern
+shore; and here, finding some land-ice, the ships were secured late at
+night, after several hours of extreme labour to the people in the boats.
+
+On the morning of the 13th, the ice being still close in with the land
+just to the northward of us, I determined on examining the supposed
+river in the boats, and, at the same time, to try our luck with the
+seines, as the place appeared a likely one for salmon. Immediately on
+opening the inlet we encountered a rapid current setting outward, and,
+after rowing a mile and a half to the N.W.b.W., the breadth of the
+stream varying from one third of a mile to four or five hundred yards,
+came to some shoal water extending quite across. Landing on the south
+shore and hauling the boats up above high-water mark, we rambled up the
+banks of the stream, which are low next the water, but rise almost
+immediately to the height of about two hundred feet. As we proceeded we
+gradually heard the noise of a fall of water; and being presently
+obliged to strike more inland, as the bank became more precipitous, soon
+obtained a fresh view of the stream running on a much higher level than
+before, and dashing with great impetuosity down two small cataracts.
+Just below this, however, where the river turns almost at a right angle,
+we perceived a much greater spray, as well as a louder sound; and,
+having walked a short distance down the bank, suddenly came upon the
+principal fall, of whose magnificence I am at a loss to give any
+adequate description. At the head of the fall, or where it commences its
+principal descent, the river is contracted to about one hundred and
+fifty feet in breadth, the channel being hollowed out through a solid
+rock of gneiss.
+
+After falling about fifteen feet at angle of 30 deg. with a vertical line,
+the width of the stream is still narrowed to about forty yards, and
+then, as if mustering its whole force previous to its final descent, is
+precipitated, in one vast, continuous sheet of water, almost
+perpendicular for ninety feet more. The dashing of the water from such a
+height produced the usual accompaniment of a cloud of spray broad
+columns of which were constantly forced up like the successive rushes of
+smoke from a vast furnace, and on this, near the top, a vivid _iris_ or
+rainbow was occasionally formed by the bright rays of an unclouded sun.
+The basin that receives the water at the foot of the fall is nearly of a
+circular form, and about four hundred yards in diameter, being rather
+wider than the river immediately below it.
+
+After remaining nearly an hour, fixed, as it were, to the spot by the
+novelty and magnificence of the scene before us, we continued our walk
+upward along the banks; and after passing the two smaller cataracts,
+found the river again increased in width to above two hundred yards,
+winding in the most romantic manner imaginable among the hills, and
+preserving, a smooth and unruffled surface for a distance of three or
+four miles that we traced it to the southwest above the fall. What
+added extremely to the beauty of this picturesque river, which Captain
+Lyon and myself named after our friend Mr. BARROW, Secretary to the
+Admiralty, was the richness of the vegetation on its banks, the
+enlivening brilliancy of a cloudless sky, and the animation given to the
+scene by several reindeer that were grazing beside the stream. Our
+sportsmen were fortunate in obtaining four of these animals; but we had
+no success with the seines, the ground proving altogether too rocky to
+use them with advantage or safety. We returned on board at thirty
+minutes past two P.M., after the most gratifying visit we had ever paid
+to the shore in these regions.
+
+We found on our return that a fresh, southerly breeze, which had been
+blowing for several hours, had driven the ice to some distance from the
+land; so that at four P.M., as soon as the flood-tide had slackened, we
+cast off and made all possible sail to the northward, steering for a
+headland, remarkable for having a patch of land towards the sea, that
+appeared insular in sailing along shore. As we approached this headland,
+which I named after my friend Mr. PENRHYN, the prospect became more and
+more enlivening; for the sea was found to be navigable in a degree very
+seldom experienced in these regions, and, the land trending two or three
+points to the westward of north, gave us reason to hope we should now be
+enabled to take a decided and final turn in that anxiously desired
+direction. As we rounded Cape Penrhyn at seven P.M., we began gradually
+to lose sight of the external body of ice, sailing close along that
+which was still attached in very heavy floes to this part of the coast.
+Both wind and tide being favourable, our progress was rapid, and
+unobstructed, and nothing could exceed the interest and delight with
+which so unusual an event was hailed by us. Before midnight the wind
+came more off the land, and then became light and variable, after which
+it settled in the northwest, with thick weather for several hours.
+
+In the course of this day the walruses became more and more numerous
+every hour, lying in large herds upon the loose pieces of drift-ice; and
+it having fallen calm at one P.M., we despatched our boats to kill some
+for the sake of the oil which they afford. On approaching the ice, our
+people found them huddled close to, and even lying upon, one another, in
+separate droves of from twelve to thirty, the whole number near the
+boats being perhaps about two hundred..Most of them waited quietly to be
+fired at: and even after one or two discharges did not seem to be
+greatly disturbed, but allowed the people to land on the ice near them,
+and, when approached, showed an evident disposition to give battle.
+After they had got into the water, three were struck with harpoons and
+killed from the boats. When first wounded they became quite furious, and
+one, which had been struck from Captain Lyon's boat, made a resolute
+attack upon her and injured several of the planks with its enormous
+tusks. A number of the others came round them, also repeatedly striking
+the wounded animals with their tusks, with the intention either of
+getting them away, or else of joining in the attack upon them. Many of
+these animals had young ones, which, when assaulted, they either took
+between their fore-flippers to carry off, or bore away on their backs.
+Both of those killed by the Fury's boats were females, and the weight of
+the largest was fifteen hundred and two quarters nearly; but it was by
+no means remarkable for the largeness of its dimensions. The peculiar
+barking noise made by the walrus when irritated, may be heard, on a calm
+day, with great distinctness at the distance of two miles at least. We
+found musket-balls the most certain and expeditious way of despatching
+them after they had been once struck with the harpoon, the thickness of
+their skin being such that whale-lances generally bend without
+penetrating it. One of these creatures being accidentally touched by one
+of the oars in Lieutenant Nias's boat, took hold of it between its
+flippers, and, forcibly twisting it out of the man's hand, snapped it in
+two. They produced us very little oil, the blubber being thin and poor
+at this season, but were welcomed in a way that had not been
+anticipated; for some quarters of this "marine beef," as Captain Cook
+has called it, being hung up for steaks, the meat was not only eaten,
+but eagerly sought after on this and every other occasion throughout the
+voyage, by all those among us who could overcome the prejudice arising
+chiefly from the dark colour of the flesh. In no other respect that I
+could ever discover, is the meat of the walrus, when fresh-killed, in
+the slightest degree unpalatable. The heart and liver are indeed
+excellent.
+
+After an unobstructed night's run, during which we met with no ice
+except in some loose "streams," the water became so much shoaler as to
+make it necessary to proceed with greater caution. About this time,
+also, a great deal of high land came in sight to the northward and
+eastward, which, on the first inspection of the Esquimaux charts, we
+took to be the large portion of land called _Ke=iyuk-tar-ruoke_,[001]
+between which and the continent the promised strait lay that was to lead
+us to the westward. So far all was satisfactory; but, after sailing a
+few miles farther, it is impossible to describe our disappointment and
+mortification in perceiving an unbroken sheet of ice extending
+completely across the supposed passage from one land to the other. This
+consisted of a floe so level and continuous, that a single glance was
+sufficient to assure us of the disagreeable fact, that it was the ice
+formed in its present situation during the winter, and still firmly
+attached to the land on every side. It was certain, from its continuous
+appearance for some miles that we ran along its edge, that it had
+suffered no disruption this season, which circumstance involved the
+necessity of our awaiting that operation, which nature seemed scarcely
+yet to have commenced in this neighbourhood, before we could hope to
+sail round the northeastern point of the American continent.
+
+At thirty minutes past nine A.M. we observed several tents on the low
+shore immediately abreast of us, and presently afterward five canoes
+made their appearance at the edge of the land-ice intervening between us
+and the beach. We soon found, by the cautious manner in which the canoes
+approached us, that our Winter Island friends had not yet reached this
+neighbourhood. In a few minutes after we had joined them, however, a few
+presents served to dissipate all their apprehensions, if, indeed, people
+could be said to entertain any who thus fearlessly met us half way; and
+we immediately persuaded them to turn back with us to the shore. Being
+under sail in the boat, with a fresh breeze, we took two of the canoes
+in tow, and dragged them along at a great rate, much to the satisfaction
+of the Esquimaux, who were very assiduous in piloting us to the best
+landing-place upon the ice, where we were met by several of their
+companions and conducted to the tents. Before we had reached the shore,
+however, we had obtained one very interesting piece of information,
+namely, that it was Igloolik on which we were now about to land, and
+that we must therefore have made a very near approach to the strait
+which, as we hoped, was to conduct us once more into the Polar Sea.
+
+We found here two divisions of tents, there being eleven where we
+landed, and five more about half a mile to the northward. By the time we
+reached the tents we were surrounded by a crowd of men, women, and
+children, all carrying some trifling article, which they offered in
+barter, a business they seemed to understand as well, and to need much
+more than their countrymen to the southward. We were, of course, not
+backward in promoting a good understanding by means of such presents as
+we had brought with us, but they seemed to have no idea of our giving
+them anything _gratis_, always offering some trifle in exchange, and
+expressing hesitation and surprise when we declined accepting it. This
+was not to be wondered at among people who scarcely know what a free
+gift is among themselves; but they were not long in getting rid of all
+delicacy or hesitation on this score.
+
+The tents, which varied in size according to the number of occupants,
+consisted of several seal and walrus skins, the former dressed without
+the hair, and the latter with the thick outer coat taken off, and the
+rest shaved thin, so as to allow of the transmission of light through
+it. These were put together in a clumsy and irregular patchwork, forming
+a sort of bag of a shape rather oval than round, and supported near the
+middle by a rude tent-pole composed of several deer's horns or the bones
+of other animals lashed together. At the upper end of this is attached
+another short piece of bone at right angles, for the purpose of
+extending the skins a little at the top, which is generally from six to
+seven feet from the ground. The lower part of the tent-pole rests on a
+large stone, to keep it from sinking into the ground, and, being no way
+secured, is frequently knocked down by persons accidentally coming
+against it, and again replaced upon the stone. The lower borders of the
+skins are held down by stones laid on them outside; and, to keep the
+whole fabric in an erect position, a line of thong is extended from the
+top, on the side where the door is, to a larger stone placed at some
+distance. The door consists merely of two flaps, contrived so as to
+overlap one another, and to be secured by a stone laid upon them at the
+bottom. This entrance faces the south or southeast; and as the wind was
+now blowing fresh from that quarter, and thick snow beginning to fall,
+these habitations did not impress us at first sight with a very
+favourable idea of the comfort and accommodation afforded by them. The
+interior of the tents may be described in few words. On one side of the
+end next the door is the usual stone lamp, resting on rough stones, with
+the _ootkooseek_, or cooking pot, suspended over it; and round this are
+huddled together, in great confusion, the rest of the women's utensils,
+together with great lumps of raw seahorse flesh and blubber, which at
+this season they enjoyed in most disgusting abundance. At the inner end
+of the tent, which is also the broadest, and occupying about one third
+of the whole apartment, their skins are laid as a bed, having under them
+some of the _andromeda tetragona_ when the ground is hard, but in this
+case placed on the bare dry shingle. Comfortless as these simple
+habitations appeared to us in a snowstorm, they are, in general, not
+deficient in warmth as summer residences; and, being easily removed from
+place to place, they are certainly well suited to the wants and habits
+of this wandering people. When a larger habitation than usual is
+required, they contrive, by putting two of these together, to form a
+sort of double tent somewhat resembling a marquee, and supported by two
+poles. The difference between these tents and the one I had seen in Lyon
+Inlet the preceding autumn, struck me as remarkable, these having no
+_wall_ of stones around them, as is usual in many that we have before
+met with, nor do I know their reason for adopting this different mode of
+construction.
+
+Even if it were not the natural and happy disposition of these people to
+be pleased, and to place implicit confidence wherever kind treatment is
+experienced, that confidence would soon have been ensured by our
+knowledge of their friends and relations to the southward, and the
+information which we were enabled to give respecting their late and
+intended movements. This, while it excited in them extreme surprise,
+served also at once to remove all distrust or apprehension, so that we
+soon found ourselves on the best terms imaginable. In return for all
+this interesting information, they gave us the names of the different
+portions of land in sight, many of which being recognised in their
+countrymen's charts, we no longer entertained a doubt of our being near
+the entrance of the strait to which all our hopes were directed. We now
+found also that a point of land in sight, a few miles to the southward
+of the tents, was near that marked _Ping-=it-k~a-l~ik_ on Ewerat's
+chart, and that, therefore, the low shore along which we had been
+constantly sailing the preceding night was certainly a part of the
+continent.
+
+By the time we had distributed most of our presents, and told some long
+stories about Winter Island, to all which they listened with eager
+delight and interest, we found the weather becoming so inclement as to
+determine us to make the best of our way on board, and to take a more
+favourable opportunity of renewing our visit to the Esquimaux. After
+pulling out for an hour and a half, Captain Lyon, who had a boat's crew
+composed of officers, and had, unfortunately, broken one of his oars,
+was under the necessity of returning to the shore. My anxiety lest the
+ships should be ventured too near the shore, from a desire to pick up
+the boats, induced me to persevere an hour longer, when the wind having
+increased to a gale, which prevented our hearing any of the guns, I
+reluctantly bore up for our former landing-place. Captain Lyon and his
+party having quartered themselves at the southern tents, we took up our
+lodgings at the others, to which we were welcomed in the kindest and
+most hospitable manner. That we might incommode the Esquimaux as little
+as possible, we divided into parties of two in each tent, though they
+would willingly have accommodated twice that number. Immediately on our
+arrival they offered us dry boots, and it was not long before we were
+entirely "rigged out" in their dresses, which, thoroughly drenched as we
+were by the sea, proved no small comfort to us. With these, and a
+sealskin or two as a blanket, we kept ourselves tolerably warm during a
+most inclement night; and the tents, which but a few hours before we had
+looked upon as the most comfortless habitations imaginable, now afforded
+us a sufficient and most acceptable shelter.
+
+The evening was passed in dealing out our information from the
+southward, and never did any arrival excite more anxious inquiries than
+those we were now obliged to answer. So intimate was the knowledge we
+possessed respecting many of their relationships, that, by the help of a
+memorandum-book in which these had been inserted, I believe we almost at
+times excited a degree of superstitious alarm in their minds. This sort
+of gossip, and incessant chattering and laughing, continued till near
+midnight, when the numerous visitors in our tents began to retire to
+their own and to leave us to our repose. Awaking at four A.M. on the
+17th, I found that the weather had moderated and cleared up, and the
+ships soon after appearing in sight, we called our boat's crew up, and
+sent one of the Esquimaux round to the other tents to inform Captain
+Lyon of our setting out. Several of the natives accompanied us to our
+boat, which they cheerfully helped us to launch, and then went round to
+another part of the beach for their own canoes. A thick fog had come on
+before this time, notwithstanding which, however, we managed to find the
+ships, and got on board by seven o'clock. Five canoes arrived soon
+after, and the wind being now light and variable, we lay-to for an hour
+to repay our kind friends for the hospitable reception they had given
+us. After supplying them abundantly with tin canisters, knives, and
+pieces of iron hoop, we hauled to the northeastward to continue our
+examination of the state of the ice, in hopes of finding that the late
+gale had in this respect done us some service.
+
+Finding that a farther examination of the eastern lands could not at
+present be carried on, without incurring the risk of hampering the ships
+at a time when, for aught that we knew, the ice might be breaking up at
+the entrance of the strait, we stood back to the westward, and, having
+fetched near the middle of Igloolik, were gratified in observing that a
+large "patch" of the fixed ice[002] had broken off and drifted out of
+sight during our absence. At nine A.M. we saw eleven canoes coming off
+from the shore, our distance from the tents being about four miles. We
+now hoisted two of them on board, their owners K=a-k~ee and
+N~u-y=ak-k~a being very well pleased with the expedient, to avoid
+damaging them alongside. Above an hour was occupied in endeavouring to
+gain additional information respecting the land to the westward, and the
+time when we might expect the ice to break up in the strait, after which
+we dismissed them with various useful presents, the atmosphere becoming
+extremely thick with snow, and threatening a repetition of the same
+inclement weather as we had lately experienced.
+
+On the 23d we went on shore to pay another visit to the Esquimaux, who
+came down on the ice in great numbers to receive us, repeatedly stroking
+down the front of their jackets with the palm of the hand as they
+advanced, a custom not before mentioned, as we had some doubt about it
+at Winter Island, and which they soon discontinued here. They also
+frequently called out _tima_, a word which, according to Hearne,
+signifies in the Esquimaux language, "What cheer!" and which Captain
+Franklin heard frequently used on first accosting the natives at the
+mouth of the Coppermine River. It seems to be among these people a
+salutation equivalent to that understood by these travellers, or at
+least some equally civil and friendly one, for nothing could exceed the
+attention which they paid us on landing. Some individual always attached
+himself to each of us immediately on our leaving the boat, pointing out
+the best road, and taking us by the hand or arm to help us over the
+streams of water or fissures in the ice, and attending us wherever we
+went during our stay on shore. The day proving extremely fine and
+pleasant, everything assumed a different appearance from that at our
+former visit, and we passed some hours on shore very agreeably. About
+half a mile inland of the tents, and situated upon the rising ground
+beyond the swamps and ponds before mentioned, we found the ruins of
+several winter habitations, which, upon land so low as Igloolik, formed
+very conspicuous objects at the distance of several miles to seaward.
+These were of the same circular and dome-like form as the snow-huts, but
+built with much more durable materials, the lower part or foundation
+being of stones, and the rest of the various bones of the whale and
+walrus, gradually inclining inward and meeting at the top. The crevices,
+as well as the whole of the outside, were then covered with turf, which,
+with the additional coating of snow in the winter, serves to exclude the
+cold air very effectually. The entrance is towards the south, and
+consists of a passage ten feet long, and not more than two in height and
+breadth, built of flat slabs of stone, having the same external covering
+as that of the huts. The beds are raised by stones two feet from the
+ground, and occupy about one third of the apartment at the inner end;
+and the windows and a part of the roofs had been taken away for the
+convenience of removing their furniture in the spring. It was a natural
+inference, from the nature of these habitations, that these people, or
+at least a portion of them, were constant residents on this spot, which,
+indeed, seemed admirably calculated to afford in luxurious profusion all
+that constitutes Esquimaux felicity. This, however, did not afterward
+prove to be absolutely the case; for though Igloolik (as perhaps the
+name may imply) is certainly one of their principal and favourite
+rendezvous, yet we subsequently found the inland entirely deserted by
+them at the same season.
+
+In every direction around the huts were lying innumerable bones of
+walruses and seals, together with sculls of dogs, bears, and foxes, on
+many of which a part of the putrid flesh still remaining sent forth the
+most offensive effluvia. We were not a little surprised to find also a
+number of human sculls lying about among the rest, within a few yards of
+the huts; and were somewhat inclined to be out of humour on this account
+with our new friends, who not only treated the matter with the utmost
+indifference, but, on observing that we were inclined to add some of
+them to our collections, went eagerly about to look for them, and
+tumbled, perhaps, the craniums of some of their own relations into our
+bag, without delicacy or remorse. In various other parts of the island
+we soon after met with similar relics no better disposed of; but we had
+yet to learn how little pains these people take to place their dead out
+of the reach of hungry bears or anatomical collectors.
+
+The account we gave of our visit to the shore naturally exciting the
+curiosity and interest of those who had not yet landed, and the ice
+remaining unchanged on the 24th, a couple of boats were despatched from
+each ship, with a large party of the officers and men, while the ships
+stood off and on. On the return of the boats in the evening, I found
+from Lieutenant Reid that a new family of the natives had arrived to-day
+from the main land, bringing with them a quantity of fine salmon and
+venison, of which some very acceptable samples were procured for both
+ships. Being desirous of following up so agreeable a kind of barter, I
+went on shore the next morning for that purpose, but could only procure
+a very small quantity of fish from the tent of the new-comer, a
+middle-aged, noisy, but remarkably intelligent and energetic man named
+_T=o=ol~em~ak_. After some conversation, we found from this man
+that, in order to obtain a fresh supply of fish, three days would be
+required; this prevented my putting in execution a plan of going out to
+the place where the fish were caught, which we at first understood to be
+near at hand. We therefore employed all our eloquence in endeavouring to
+procure a supply of this kind by means of the Esquimaux themselves, in
+which we at length so far succeeded, that Toolemak promised, for certain
+valuable considerations of wood and iron, to set out on this errand the
+following day.
+
+Shortly, after I returned on board Captain Lyon made the signal "to
+communicate with me," for the purpose of offering his services to
+accompany our fisherman on his proposed journey, attended by one of the
+Hecla's men; to which, in the present unfavourable state of the ice, I
+gladly consented, as the most likely means of procuring information of
+interest during this our unavoidable detention. Being equipped with a
+small tent, blankets, and four days' provision, Captain Lyon left us at
+ten P.M., when I made sail to re-examine the margin of the ice.
+
+It blew fresh from the eastward during the night of the 28th, with
+continued rain, all which we considered favourable for dissolving and
+dislodging the ice, though very comfortless for Captain Lyon on his
+excursion. The weather at length clearing up in the afternoon, I
+determined on beating to the eastward, to see if any more of the land in
+that direction could be made out than the unfavourable position of the
+ice would permit at our last visit. The Fury then made sail and stood to
+the eastward, encountering the usual strength of tide off the southwest
+point of Tangle Island, and soon after a great quantity of heavy
+drift-ice, apparently not long detached from some land.
+
+I determined to avoid, if possible, the entanglement of the Fury among
+the ice, which now surrounded her on every side, and to stand back to
+Igloolik, to hear what information Captain Lyon's journey might have
+procured for us.
+
+At the distance of one third of a mile from Tangle Island, where we
+immediately gained the open sea beyond, we observed the Hecla standing
+towards us, and rejoined her at a quarter before eleven, when Captain
+Lyon came on board to communicate the result of his late journey, of
+which he furnished me with the following account, accompanied by a
+sketch of the lands he had seen, as far as the extremely unfavourable
+state of the weather would permit.
+
+
+    "Accompanied by George Dunn, I found Toolemak on landing, who
+    welcomed us to his tent, in which for two hours it was scarcely
+    possible to move, in consequence of the crowd who came to gaze at
+    us. A new deerskin was spread for me, and Dunn having found a corner
+    for himself, we all lay down to sleep, not, however, until our host,
+    his wife, their little son, and a dog, had turned in beside me,
+    under cover of a fine warm skin, all naked except the lady, who,
+    with the decorum natural to her sex, kept on a part of her clothes.
+    At ten A.M. we started, and found the sledge on a beach near the
+    southern ice. Four men were to accompany us on this vehicle, and the
+    good-natured fellows volunteered to carry our luggage. A second
+    sledge was under the charge of three boys who had eight dogs, while
+    our team consisted of eleven. The weather was so thick that at times
+    we could not see a quarter of a mile before us, but yet went rapidly
+    forward to the W.N.W., when, after about six hours, we came to a
+    high, bold land, and a great number of islands of reddish granite,
+    wild and barren in the extreme. We here found the ice in a very
+    decayed state, and in many places the holes and fissures were
+    difficult if not dangerous to pass. At the expiration of eight
+    hours, our impediments in this respect had increased to such a
+    degree as to stop our farther progress. Dunn, the old man, and
+    myself therefore walked over a small island, beyond which we saw a
+    sheet of water, which precluded any farther advance otherwise than
+    by boats.
+
+    "In the hope that the morning would prove more favourable for our
+    seeing the land, the only advantage now to be derived from our
+    visit, since the fishing place was not attainable, it was decided to
+    pass the night on one of the rocky islands. The Esquimaux having
+    brought no provisions with them, I distributed our four days'
+    allowance of meat in equal proportions to the whole party, who
+    afterward lay down to sleep on the rocks, having merely a piece of
+    skin to keep the rain from their faces. In this comfortless state
+    they remained very quietly for eight hours. Our little hunting-tent
+    just held Dunn and myself, although not in a very convenient manner;
+    but it answered the purpose of keeping us dry, except from a stream
+    of water that ran under us all night.
+
+    "The morning of the 27th was rather fine for a short time, and we
+    saw above thirty islands, which I named COXE'S GROUP, varying in
+    size from one hundred yards to a mile or more in length. Two deer
+    were observed on the northern land, which was called _Khead-Laghioo_
+    by the Esquimaux, and Toolemak accompanied Dunn in chase of them. On
+    crossing to bring over our game, we found the old Esquimaux had
+    skinned and broken up the deer after his own manner, and my
+    companions being without food, I divided it into shares.
+
+    "Arriving on the ice, a skin was taken from the sledge as a seat,
+    and we all squatted down to a repast which was quite new to me. In
+    ten minutes the natives had picked the deer's bones so clean that
+    even the hungry dogs disdained to gnaw them a second time. Dunn and
+    myself made our breakfast on a choice slice cut from the spine, and
+    found it so good, the windpipe in particular, that at dinner-time we
+    preferred the same food to our share of the preserved meat which we
+    had saved from the preceding night.
+
+    "As we sat I observed the moschetoes to be very numerous, but they
+    were lying in a half torpid state on the ice, and incapable of
+    molesting us. Soon after noon we set forward on our return, and,
+    without seeing any object but the flat and decaying ice, passed from
+    land to land with our former celerity, dashing through large pools
+    of water much oftener than was altogether agreeable to men who had
+    not been dry for above thirty hours, or warm for a still longer
+    period. Our eleven dogs were large, fine-looking animals, and an old
+    one of peculiar sagacity was placed at their head by having a longer
+    trace, so as to lead them over the safest and driest places, for
+    these animals have a great dread of water. The leader was instant in
+    obeying the voice of the driver, who did not beat, but repeatedly
+    talked and called it by name. It was beautiful to observe the
+    sledges racing to the same object, the dogs and men in full cry, and
+    the vehicles splashing through the water with the velocity of rival
+    stage-coaches.
+
+    "We were joyfully welcomed to the dwelling of Ooyarra, whose guest I
+    was now to become, and the place of honour, the deerskin seat, was
+    cleared for my reception. His two wives, _K~ai-m=o=o-khi~ak_
+    and _Aw~a-r=un-n~i_ occupied one end, for it was a double
+    tent; while at the opposite extremity the parents of the senior wife
+    were established. The old mother N=ow-k~it-y~oo assisted the
+    young woman in pulling off our wet clothes and boots, which latter
+    being of native manufacture, she new-soled and mended without any
+    request on our side, considering us as a part of the family. Dunn
+    slept in the little tent to watch our goods, and I had a small
+    portion of Ooyarra's screened off for me by a seal's skin. My host
+    and his wives having retired to another tent, and my visitors taking
+    compassion on me, I went comfortably to sleep; but at midnight was
+    awakened by a feeling of great warmth, and, to my surprise, found
+    myself covered by a large deerskin, under which lay my friend, his
+    two wives, and their favourite puppy, all fast asleep and stark
+    naked. Supposing this was all according to rule, I left them to
+    repose in peace, and resigned myself to sleep.
+
+    "On rising, Dunn and I washed with soap in a pond, which caused
+    great speculations among the by-standers, on some of whom we
+    afterward performed miracles in the cleansing way. A large
+    assemblage being collected to hear me talk of Ney-uning-Eitua, or
+    Winter Island, and to see us eat, the women volunteered to cook for
+    us; and, as we preferred a fire in the open air to their lamps, the
+    good-natured creatures sat an hour in the rain to stew some venison
+    which we had saved from our shares of the deer. The fires in summer,
+    when in the open air, are generally made of bones previously well
+    rubbed with blubber, and the female who attends the cooking chews a
+    large piece, from which, as she extracts the oil, she spirts it on
+    the flame.
+
+    "After noon, as I lay half asleep, a man came, and, taking me by the
+    hand, desired Dunn to follow. He led to a tent, which, from the
+    stillness within, I conjectured was untenanted. Several men stood
+    near the door, and, on entering, I found eighteen women assembled
+    and seated in regular order, with the seniors in front. In the
+    centre, near the tent-pole, stood two men, who, when I was seated on
+    a large stone, walked slowly round, and one began dancing in the
+    usual manner, to the favourite tune of 'Amna aya.' The second
+    person, as I soon found, was the dancer's assistant; and, when the
+    principal had pretty well exhausted himself, he walked gravely up
+    to him, and, taking his head between his hands, performed a ceremony
+    called _K=o=on~ik_, which is rubbing noses, to the great
+    amusement and amid the plaudits of the whole company. After this, as
+    if much refreshed, he resumed his performance, occasionally,
+    however, taking a koonik to enliven himself and the spectators. The
+    rub-_bee_, if I may be excused the expression, was at length brought
+    forward and put in the place of the first dancer, who rushed out of
+    the tent to cool himself. In this manner five or six couples
+    exhibited alternately, obtaining more or less applause, according to
+    the oddity of their grimaces. At length a witty fellow, in
+    consequence of some whispering and tittering among the ladies,
+    advanced and gave me the koonik, which challenge I Was obliged to
+    answer by standing up to dance, and my nose was in its turn most
+    severely rubbed, to the great delight of all present.
+
+    "Having been as patient as could be wished for above an hour, and
+    being quite overpowered by the heat of the crowded tent, I made a
+    hasty retreat, after having distributed needles to all the females,
+    and exacting kooniks from all the prettiest in return. A general
+    outcry was now made for Dunn, a most quiet North countryman, to
+    exhibit also; but he, having seen the liberties which had been taken
+    with my nose, very prudently made his retreat, anticipating what
+    would be his fate if he remained.
+
+    "During a short, interval of fine weather, we hung out our clothes
+    to dry, and the contents of our knapsacks, instruments, knives, and
+    beads were strewed on the ground, while we went inland to shoot a
+    few ducks. We cautioned no one against thieving, and were so much at
+    their mercy that everything might have been taken without a
+    possibility of detection; yet not a single article was found to have
+    been removed from its place at our return. At night I was attended
+    by the same bedfellows as before; the young puppy, however, being
+    now better acquainted, took up his quarters in my blanket-bag, as
+    from thence he could the more easily reach a quantity of
+    walrus-flesh which lay near my head; and I was awakened more than
+    once by finding him gnawing a lump by my side.
+
+    "On the morning of the 29th I was really glad to find that the ships
+    were not yet in sight, as I should be enabled to pass another day
+    among the hospitable natives. While making my rounds I met several
+    others, who were also visiting, and who each invited me to call at
+    his tent in its turn. Wherever I entered, the master rose and
+    resigned his seat next his wife or wives, and stood before me or
+    squatted on a stone near the door. I was then told to 'speak!' or,
+    in fact, to give a history of all I knew of the distant tribe,
+    which, from constant repetition, I could now manage pretty well. In
+    one tent I found a man mending his paddle, which was ingeniously
+    made of various little scraps of wood, ivory, and bone, lashed
+    together. He put it into my hands to repair, taking it for granted
+    that a Kabloona would succeed much better than himself. An hour
+    afterward the poor fellow came and took me by the hand to his tent,
+    where I found a large pot of walrus-flesh evidently cooked for me.
+    His wife licked a piece and offered it, but, on his saying something
+    to her, took out another, and, having pared off the outside, gave
+    me the clean part, which, had it been carrion, I would not have hurt
+    these poor creatures by refusing. The men showed me some curious
+    puzzles with knots on their fingers, and I did what I could in
+    return. The little girls were very expert in a singular but dirty
+    amusement, which consisted in drawing a piece of sinew up their
+    nostrils and producing the end out of their mouths. The elder people
+    were, for the most part, in chase of the tormentors, which swarmed
+    in their head and clothes; and I saw, for the first time, an
+    ingenious contrivance for detaching them from the back, or such
+    parts of the body as the hands could not reach. This was the rib of
+    a seal, having a bunch of the whitest of a deer's hair attached to
+    one end of it, and on this rubbing the places which require it, the
+    little animals stick to it; from their colour they are easily
+    detected, and, of course, consigned to the mouths of the hunters.
+
+    "The weather clearing in the afternoon, one ship was seen in the
+    distance, which diffused a general joy among the people, who ran
+    about screaming and dancing with delight. While lounging along the
+    beach, and waiting the arrival of the ship, I proposed a game at
+    'leap frog,' which was quite new to the natives, and in learning
+    which some terrible falls were made. Even the women with the
+    children at their backs would not be outdone by the men, and they
+    formed a grotesque party of opposition jumpers. Tired with a long
+    exhibition, I retreated to the tent, but was allowed a very short
+    repose, as I was soon informed that the people from the farthest
+    tents were come to see my performance, and, on going out, I found
+    five men stationed at proper distances with their heads down for me
+    to go over them, which I did amid loud cries of _koyenna_ (thanks).
+
+    "As the ship drew near in the evening, I perceived her to be the
+    Hecla, but, not expecting a boat so late, lay down to sleep. I soon
+    found my mistake, for a large party came drumming on the side of the
+    tent, and crying out that a 'little ship' was coming, and, in fact,
+    I found the boat nearly on shore. Ooyarra's senior wife now
+    anxiously begged to tattoo a little figure on my arm, which she had
+    no sooner done than the youngest insisted on making the same mark;
+    and while all around were running about and screaming in the
+    greatest confusion, these two poor creatures sat quietly down to
+    embellish me. When the boat landed, a general rush was made for the
+    privilege of carrying our things down to it. Awarunni, who owned the
+    little dog which slept with me, ran and threw him as a present into
+    the boat; when, after a general koonik, we pushed off, fully
+    sensible of the kind hospitality we had received. Toolemak and
+    Ooyarra came on board in my boat, in order to pass the night and
+    receive presents, and we left the beach under three hearty cheers."
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+
+     A Whale killed.--Other Charts drawn by the Esquimaux.--Account of a
+     Journey to the Narrows of the Strait.--Discovery of the Sea to the
+     Westward.--Total Disruption of the Ice at the Eastern Entrance of
+     the Strait.--Instance of local Attraction on the Compasses.--Sail
+     through the Narrows, and again stopped by fixed Ice.--Account of
+     several Land Journeys and Boat Excursions.--Observations on the
+     Tides.--Continued Obstacles from fixed Ice.
+
+
+
+_Aug._ 1.--The information obtained by Captain Lyon on his late journey
+with the Esquimaux served very strongly to confirm all that had before
+been understood from those people respecting the existence of the
+desired passage to the westward in this neighbourhood, though the
+impossibility of Captain Lyon's proceeding farther in that direction,
+combined with our imperfect knowledge of the language, still left us in
+some doubt as to the exact position of the strait in question. While,
+therefore, Captain Lyon was acquainting me with his late proceedings, we
+shaped a course for Igloolik, in order to continue our look-out upon the
+ice, and made the tents very accurately by the compass, after a run of
+five leagues.
+
+The present state of the ice, which was thin and "rotten,", served no
+less to excite our surprise than to keep alive our hopes and
+expectations. The spaces occupied respectively by ice and holes were
+about equal; and so extensive and dangerous were the latter, that the
+men could with extreme difficulty walk twenty or thirty yards from the
+ship to place the anchors, and that at no small risk of falling through.
+We were astonished, therefore, to find with what tenacity a field of
+ice, whose parts appeared thus loosely joined, still continued to hang
+together, notwithstanding the action of the swell that almost constantly
+set upon its margin.
+
+We had for several days past occasionally seen black whales about the
+ships, and our boats were kept in constant readiness to strike one, for
+the sake of the oil, in which endeavour they at length succeeded this
+morning. The usual signal being exhibited, all the boats were sent to
+their assistance, and in less than an hour and a half had killed and
+secured the fish, which proved a moderate-sized one of above "nine feet
+bone," exactly suiting our purpose. The operation of "flinching" this
+animal, which was thirty-nine feet and a half in length, occupied most
+of the afternoon, each ship taking half the blubber and hauling it on
+the ice, "to make off" or put into casks.
+
+As soon as we had completed the stowage of the blubber, and washed the
+ships and people's clothes, we cast off on the 6th, taking in tow the
+carcass of the whale (technically called the "crang") for our friends at
+Igloolik. The wind dying away when the ships were off the northeast end
+of the island, the boats were despatched to tow the whale on shore,
+while Captain Lyon and myself went ahead to meet some of the canoes that
+were paddling towards us. We soon joined eleven of them, and on our
+informing the Esquimaux of the prize the boats were bringing them, they
+paddled off with great delight. When they arrived at the spot, and had
+civilly asked permission to eat some of it, they dropped their canoes
+astern to the whale's tail, from which they cut off enormous lumps of
+flesh and ravenously devoured it; after which they followed our boats
+in-shore, where the carcass was made fast to a mass of grounded ice for
+their future disposal.
+
+As we made several tacks off the island next to the northward of
+Igloolik, called by the Esquimaux _Neerlo-Nackto_, two canoes came off
+to us, in one of which was Toolemak. He and his companions came on board
+the Fury, when I employed him for a couple of hours in drawing a chart
+of the strait. Toolemak, though a sensible and intelligent man, we soon
+found to be no draughtsman, so that his performance in this way, if
+taken alone, was not a very intelligible delineation of the coast. By
+dint, however, of a great deal of talking on his part, and some exercise
+of patience on ours, we at length obtained a copious verbal illustration
+of his sketch, which confirmed all our former accounts respecting the
+existence of a passage to the westward in this immediate neighbourhood,
+and the large extent of land on the northern side of the strait.
+Toolemak also agreed with our other Esquimaux informants in stating,
+that from the coast of Akkoolee no land is visible to the westward; nor
+was any ever heard of in that direction by the Esquimaux. This fact they
+uniformly assert with a whine of sorrow, meaning thereby to intimate
+that their knowledge and resources are there both at an end.
+
+The disruption of the ice continued to proceed slowly till early on the
+morning of the 14th; the breeze having freshened from the northwest,
+another floe broke away from the fixed ice, allowing us to gain about
+half a mile more to the westward; such was the vexatious slowness with
+which we were permitted to advance towards the object of our most
+anxious wishes!
+
+On the 14th I left the ship with Mr. Richards and four men, and
+furnished with provisions for ten days, intending, if possible, to reach
+the main land at a point where we could overlook the strait. In this we
+succeeded after a journey of four days, arriving on the morning of the
+18th at the extreme northern point of a peninsula, overlooking the
+narrowest part of the desired strait, which lay immediately below us in
+about an east and west direction, being two miles in width, apparently
+very deep, and with a tide or current of at least two knots, setting the
+loose ice through to the eastward. Beyond us, to the west, the shores
+again separated to the distance of several leagues; and for more than
+three points of the compass, in that direction, no land could be seen to
+the utmost limits of a clear horizon, except one island six or seven
+miles distant. Over this we could not entertain a doubt of having
+discovered the Polar Sea; and, loaded as it was with ice, we already
+felt as if we were on the point of forcing our way through it along the
+northern shores of America.
+
+After despatching one of our party to the foot of the point for some of
+the sea-water, which was found extremely salt to the taste, we hailed
+the interesting event of the morning by three hearty cheers and by a
+small extra allowance of grog to our people, to drink a safe and speedy
+passage through the channel just discovered, which I ventured to name,
+by anticipation, THE STRAIT OF THE FURY AND HECLA. Having built a pile
+of stones upon the promontory, which, from its situation with respect to
+the Continent of America, I called CAPE NORTHEAST, we walked back to our
+tent and baggage, these having, for the sake of greater expedition, been
+left two miles behind; and, after resting a few hours, set out at three
+P.M. on our return.
+
+We reached the ships at ten o'clock P.M. on Tuesday the 20th. On almost
+all the shores both of the main land and islands that we visited, some
+traces of the Esquimaux were found; but they were less numerous than in
+any other places on which we had hitherto landed. This circumstance
+rather seemed to intimate, as we afterward found to be the case, that
+the shores of the strait and its immediate neighbourhood are not a
+frequent resort of the natives during the summer months.
+
+We got under way on the 21st, were off Cape Northeast on the 26th, and I
+gave the name of CAPE OSSORY to the eastern point of the northern land
+of the Narrows; but on that day, after clearing two dangerous shoals,
+and again deepening our soundings, we had begun to indulge the most
+flattering hopes of now making such a rapid progress as would in some
+degree compensate for all our delays and disappointments, when, at once
+to crush every expectation of this sort, it was suddenly announced from
+the crow's nest that another barrier of _fixed_ ice stretched completely
+across the strait, a little beyond us, in one continuous and
+impenetrable field, still occupying its winter station. In less than an
+hour we had reached its margin, when, finding this report but too
+correct, and that, therefore, all farther progress was at present as
+impracticable as if no strait existed, we ran the ships under all sail
+for the floe, which proved so "rotten" and decayed that the ships forced
+themselves three or four hundred yards through it before they stopped.
+Keeping all our canvass spread, we then tried to break the thin edges
+about the numerous holes, by dropping weights over the bows, as well as
+by various other equally ineffectual expedients; but the ice was "tough"
+enough to resist every effort of this kind, though its watery state was
+such as to increase, if possible, our annoyance at being stopped by it.
+The passage to the northward of the island was not even so clear as this
+by above two miles of ice, so that in every respect our present route
+was to be preferred to the other; and thus, after a vexatious delay of
+six weeks at the eastern entrance of the strait, and at a time when we
+had every reason to hope that nature, though hitherto tardy in her
+annual disruption of the ice, had at length made an effort to complete
+it, did we find our progress once more opposed by a barrier of the same
+continuous, impenetrable, and hopeless nature as at first!
+
+As soon as the anchors were dropped, my attention was once more turned
+to the main object of the expedition, from which it had for a moment
+been diverted by the necessity of exerting every effort for the
+immediate safety of the ships. This being now provided for, I had
+leisure to consider in what manner, hampered as the ships were by the
+present state of the ice, our means and exertions might, during this
+unavoidable detention, be employed to the greatest advantage, or, at
+least, with the best prospect of ultimate utility.
+
+Whatever doubts might at a distance have been entertained respecting the
+identity, or the contrary, of the place visited by Captain Lyon with
+that subsequently discovered by myself, there could be none on a nearer
+view; as, independently of the observed latitude, Captain Lyon could
+not, on approaching the narrows, recognise a single feature of the land;
+our present channel being evidently a much wider and more extensive one
+than that pointed out by Toolemak, on the journey. It became, therefore,
+a matter of interest, now that this point was settled and our progress
+again stopped by an insuperable obstacle, to ascertain the extent and
+communication of the southern inlet; and, should it prove a second
+strait, to watch the breaking up of the ice about its eastern entrance,
+that no favourable opportunity might be missed of pushing through it to
+the westward. I therefore determined to despatch three separate parties,
+to satisfy all doubts in that quarter, as well as to gain every possible
+information as to the length of the strait, and the extent of the fixed
+ice now more immediately before us.
+
+With this view, I requested Captain Lyon to take with him Mr. Griffiths
+and four men, and proceed overland in a S.b.E. direction, till he should
+determine, by the difference of latitude, which amounted only to sixteen
+miles, whether there was or was not a strait leading to the westward,
+about the parallel of 69 deg. 26', being nearly that in which the place
+called by the Esquimaux _Kh=emig_ had been found by observation to
+lie. In the mean time, Lieutenant Palmer was directed to proceed in a
+boat to Igloolik, or Neerlo-Nackto, as might be necessary, to ascertain
+whether the passage leading towards Kh=emig was yet clear of ice; and,
+should he find any one of the Esquimaux willing to accompany him to the
+ships with his canoe, to bring him on board as a pilot. The third party
+consisted of Mr. Bushnan, with three men, under the command of
+Lieutenant Reid, who was instructed to proceed along the continental
+coast to the westward, to gain as much information as possible
+respecting the termination of our present strait, the time of his return
+to the ships being limited to four days, at the expiration of which the
+other two parties might also be expected to reach us.
+
+On the morning of the 29th, the wind being light from the eastward, but
+the weather much more clear than before, we weighed and stood over to
+the mainland with the intention of putting our travellers on shore, but
+found that coast now so lined with the ice which had lately broken
+adrift that it was not possible for a boat to approach it. Standing off
+to the westward, to see what service the late disruption had done us, we
+found that a considerable floe had separated, exactly in a line between
+the island off which we lay and a second to the westward of it,
+subsequently named in honour of LORD AMHERST. Tacking at the
+newly-formed margin of the fixed ice, we observed, not only that it was
+still firmly attached to the shores, but that it was now almost entirely
+"hummocky," and heavier than any we had seen since making Igloolik; some
+of the hummocks, as we afterward found, measuring from eight to ten feet
+above the surface of the sea.
+
+The different character now assumed by the ice, while it certainly
+damped our hopes of the passage being cleared this season by the gradual
+effects of dissolution, confirmed, however, in a very satisfactory
+manner, the belief of our being in a broad channel communicating with a
+western sea. As the conclusions we immediately drew from this
+circumstance may not be so obvious to others, I shall here briefly
+explain that, from the manner in which the hummocky floes are formed, it
+is next to impossible that any of these of considerable extent can ever
+be produced in a mere inlet having a narrow communication with the sea.
+There is, in fact, no ice to which the denomination of "sea-ice" may be
+more strictly and exclusively applied than this; and we therefore felt
+confident that the immense floes which now opposed our progress must
+have come from the sea on one side or the other; while the current,
+which we had observed to run in an easterly direction in the narrows, of
+this strait, precluded the possibility of such ice having found its way
+in from that quarter. The only remaining conclusion was, that it must
+have been set into the strait from the westward towards the close of a
+summer, and cemented in its present situation by the frost of the
+succeeding winter.
+
+A great deal of snow having fallen in the last two days, scarcely a dark
+patch was now to be seen on any part of the land, so that the prospect
+at daylight on the 30th was as comfortless as can well be imagined for
+the parties who were just about to find their way among the rocks and
+precipices. Soon after four A.M., however, when we had ascertained that
+the drift-ice was no longer lying in their way, they were all
+despatched in their different directions. For each of the land-parties a
+depot of several days' provision and fuel was, in case of accidents,
+established on the beach; and Lieutenant Palmer took in his boat a
+supply for nine days.
+
+On the 31st the wind blew fresh and cold from the northwest, which
+caused a quantity of ice to separate from the fixed floe in small pieces
+during the day, and drift past the ships. Early in the morning, a
+she-bear and her two cubs were observed floating down on one of these
+masses, and, coming close to the Hecla, were all killed. The female
+proved remarkably small, two or three men being able to lift her into a
+boat.
+
+At half past nine on the morning of the 1st of September, one of our
+parties was descried at the appointed rendezvous on shore, which, on our
+sending a boat to bring them on board, proved to be Captain Lyon and his
+people. From their early arrival we were in hopes that some decisive
+information had at length been obtained; and our disappointment may
+therefore be imagined, in finding that, owing to insuperable obstacles,
+on the road, he had not been able to advance above five or six miles to
+the southward, and that with excessive danger and fatigue, owing to the
+depth of the snow, and the numerous lakes and precipices.
+
+At nine A.M. on the 2d, Lieutenant Reid and his party were descried at
+their landing-place, and a boat being sent for them, arrived on board at
+half past eleven. He reported that the ice seemed to extend from Amherst
+Island as far as they could see to the westward, presenting one unbroken
+surface from the north to the south shore of the strait.
+
+Notwithstanding every exertion on the part of our travellers, their
+labours had not thrown much light on the geography of this part of the
+coast, nor added any information that could be of practical use in
+directing the operations of the ships. The important question respecting
+a second passage leading to the westward still remained as much a matter
+of mere conjecture as at first; while the advanced period of the season,
+and the unpromising appearance of the ice now opposing our progress,
+rendered it more essential than ever that this point should, if
+possible, be decided. Under this impression it occurred to me, that the
+desired object might possibly be accomplished by pursuing the route
+along the head or western shore of Richards's Bay, part of which I had
+already traversed on my former journey, and found it much less laborious
+walking than that experienced by Captain Lyon on the higher and more
+rugged mountains inland. I determined, therefore, to make this attempt,
+taking with me Mr. Richards and most of my former companions.
+
+This night proved the coldest we had experienced during the present
+season, and the thermometer stood at 24 deg. when I left the ships at four
+A.M. on the 3d, having previously directed Captain Lyon to remain as
+near their present station as might be consistent with safety, and
+carefully watch for any alteration that might occur in the western ice.
+
+Being favoured by a strong northwesterly breeze, we reached the narrows
+at half past six A.M., and immediately encountered a race or ripple, so
+heavy and dangerous that it was only by carrying a press of canvass on
+the boat that we succeeded in keeping the seas from constantly breaking
+into her. This rippling appeared to be occasioned by the sudden
+obstruction which the current meets at the western mouth of the narrows,
+aided, in the present instance, by the strong breeze that blew directly
+upon the corner forming the entrance on the south side.
+
+Having landed at Cape Northeast, I made sail for the isthmus at ten
+A.M., where we arrived after an hour's run; and hauling the boat up on
+the rocks, and depositing the greater part of our stores near her, set
+off at one P.M. along the shore of Richards's Bay, being equipped with
+only three days' provision, and as small a weight of clothing as
+possible. The coast, though not bad for travelling, led us so much more
+to the westward than I expected, in consequence of its numerous
+indentations, that, after above five hours' hard walking, we had only
+made good a W.S.W. course, direct distance six miles. We obtained on
+every eminence a distinct view of the ice the whole way down to
+Neerlo-nakto, in which space not a drop of clear water was discernible;
+the whole of Richards's Bay was filled with ice as before.
+
+We moved at six P.M. on the 4th, and soon came to a number of lakes from
+half a mile to two miles in length occurring in chains of three or four
+together, round which we had to walk, at the expense of much time and
+labour. At half past six, on gaining a sight of the sea from the top of
+a hill, we immediately recognised to the eastward the numerous islands
+of red granite described by Captain Lyon; and now perceived, what had
+before been surmised, that the south shore of Richards's Bay formed the
+northern coast of the inlet, up which his journey with the Esquimaux had
+been pursued. Our latitude, by account from noon, being now 69 deg. 28', we
+felt confident that a short walk directly to the south must bring us to
+any strait communicating with that inlet, and we therefore pushed on in
+confident expectation of being near our journey's end. At seven P.M.,
+leaving the men to pitch the tent in a sheltered valley, Mr. Richards
+and myself ascended the hill that rose beyond it, and, on reaching its
+summit, found ourselves overlooking a long and narrow arm of the sea
+communicating with the inlet before seen to the eastward, and appearing
+to extend several miles nearly in an east and west direction, or
+parallel to the table-land before described, from which it is distant
+three or four miles. That the creek we now overlooked was a part of the
+same arm of the sea which Captain Lyon had visited, the latitude, the
+bearings of Igloolik, which was now plainly visible, and the number and
+appearance of the Coxe Islands, which were too remarkable to be
+mistaken, all concurred in assuring us; and it only, therefore, remained
+for us to determine whether it would furnish a passage for the ships.
+Having made all the remarks which the lateness of the evening would
+permit, we descended to the tent at dusk, being directed by a cheerful,
+blazing fire of the _andromeda tetragona_, which, in its present dry
+state, served as excellent fuel for warming our provisions.
+
+Setting forward at five A.M. on the 5th, along some pleasant valleys
+covered with grass and other vegetation, and the resort of numerous
+reindeer, we walked six or seven miles in a direction parallel to that
+of the creek; when, finding the latter considerably narrowed, and the
+numerous low points of its south shore rendering the water too shoal, to
+all appearance, even for the navigation of a sloop of ten tons, I
+determined to waste no more time in the farther examination of so
+insignificant a place. The farther we went to the westward, the higher
+the hills became; and the commanding prospect thus afforded enabled us
+distinctly to perceive with a glass that, though the ice had become
+entirely dissolved in the creek, and for half a mile below it, the whole
+sea to the eastward, even as far as Igloolik, was covered with one
+continuous and unbroken floe.
+
+Having now completely satisfied myself, that, as respected both ice and
+land, there was no navigable passage for ships about this latitude, no
+time was lost in setting out on our return.
+
+At half past eight we arrived on board, where I was happy to find that
+all our parties had returned without accident, except that Lieutenant
+Palmer had been wounded in his hand and temporarily blinded by a gun
+accidentally going off, from which, however, he fortunately suffered no
+eventual injury.
+
+The result of our late endeavours, necessarily cramped as they had been,
+was to confirm, in the most satisfactory manner, the conviction that we
+were now in the only passage leading to the westward that existed in
+this neighbourhood. Notwithstanding, therefore, the present unpromising
+appearance of the ice, I had no alternative left me but patiently to
+await its disruption, and instantly to avail myself of any alteration
+that nature might yet effect in our favour.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+
+     A Journey performed along the South Shore of Cockburn
+     Island.--Confirmation of an Outlet to the Polar Sea.--Partial
+     Disruption of the Old Ice, and formation of New.--Return through
+     the Narrows to the Eastward.--Proceed to examine the Coast to the
+     Northeastward.--Fury's Anchor broken.--Stand over to Igloolik to
+     look for Winter-quarters.--Excursion to the Head of Quilliam
+     Creek.--Ships forced to the Westward by Gales of Wind--A Canal
+     sawed through the Ice, and the Ships secured in their Winter
+     Station.--Continued Visits of the Esquimaux, and Arrival of some of
+     the Winter Island Tribe.--Proposed Plan of Operations in the
+     ensuing Spring.
+
+
+
+A light air springing up from the eastward on the morning of the 8th, we
+took advantage of it to run up the margin of the fixed ice, which was
+now, perhaps, half a mile farther to the westward, in consequence of
+small pieces being occasionally detached from it, than it had been when
+we tacked off it ten days before.
+
+The pools on the floes were now so hardly frozen, that skating and
+sliding were going on upon them the whole day, though but a week before
+it had been dangerous to venture upon them.
+
+This latter circumstance, together with the fineness of the weather, and
+the tempting appearance of the shore of Cockburn Island, which seemed
+better calculated for travelling than any that we had seen, combined to
+induce me to despatch another party to the westward, with the hope of
+increasing, by the only means within our reach, our knowledge of the
+lands and sea in that direction. Lieutenant Reid and Mr. Bushnan were
+once more selected for that service, to be accompanied by eight men, a
+large number being preferred, because by this means only is it
+practicable to accomplish a tolerably long journey, especially on
+account of the additional weight of warm clothing which the present
+advanced state of the season rendered indispensable. Lieutenant Reid was
+furnished with six days' provisions, and directed to land where most
+practicable on the northern shore, and thence to pursue his journey to
+the westward as far as his resources would admit, gaining all possible
+information that might be useful or interesting.
+
+On the 14th, while an easterly breeze continued, the water increased
+very much in breadth to the westward of the fixed floe to which we were
+attached; several lanes opening out, and leaving in some places a
+channel not less than three miles in width. At two P.M., the wind
+suddenly shifting to the westward, closed up every open space in a few
+hours, leaving not a drop of water in sight from the masthead in that
+direction. To this, however, we had no objection; for being now certain
+that the ice was at liberty to move in the western part of the strait,
+we felt confident that, if once our present narrow barrier were also
+detached, the ordinary changes of wind and tide would inevitably afford
+us opportunities of making progress. The westerly wind was accompanied
+by fine snow, which continued during the night, rendering the weather
+extremely thick, and our situation, consequently, very precarious,
+should the ice give way during the hours of darkness.
+
+At four P.M. on the 15th we discovered our travellers upon the ice. A
+fresh party being despatched to meet and to relieve them of their
+knapsacks, Lieutenant Reid arrived safely on board at seven P.M.,
+having, by a quick and most satisfactory journey, ascertained the
+immediate junction of the Strait of the Fury and Hecla with the Polar
+Sea.
+
+The weather continuing very thick, with small snow, and there being now
+every reason to suppose a final disruption of the fixed ice at hand, I
+determined to provide against the danger to which, at night, this
+long-wished-for event would expose the ships, by adopting a plan that
+had often before occurred to me as likely to prove beneficial in an
+unknown and critical navigation such as this. This was nothing more than
+the establishment of a temporary lighthouse on shore during the night,
+which, in case of our getting adrift, would, together with the
+soundings, afford us that security which the sluggish traversing of the
+compasses otherwise rendered extremely doubtful. For this purpose, two
+steady men, provided with a tent and blankets, were landed on the east
+point of Amherst Island at sunset, to keep up some bright lights during
+the eight hours of darkness, and to be sent for at daylight in the
+morning.
+
+On the 17th the wind freshened almost to a gale from the northwest, with
+thicker and more constant snow than before. The thermometer fell to
+16-1/2 deg. at six A.M., rose no higher than 20 deg. in the course of the
+day, and got down to 12 deg. at night, so that the young ice began now to
+form about us in great quantities.
+
+Appearances had now become so much against our making any farther
+progress this season, as to render it a matter of very serious
+consideration whether we ought to risk being shut up during the winter
+in the middle of the strait, where, from whatever cause it might
+proceed, the last year's ice was not yet wholly detached from the
+shores, and where a fresh formation had already commenced, which there
+was too much reason to believe would prove a permanent one. Our
+wintering in the strait involved the certainty of being frozen up for
+eleven months; a sickening prospect under any circumstances, but in the
+present instance, probably, fatal to our best hopes and expectations.
+
+The young ice had now formed so thick about the Fury, that it became
+rather doubtful whether we should get her out without an increase of
+wind to assist in extricating her, or a decrease of cold. At ten A.M.,
+however, we began to attempt it, but by noon had not moved the ship more
+than half her own length. As soon as we had reached the outer point of
+the floe, in a bay of which we had been lying, we had no longer the
+means of applying a force from without, and, if alone, should therefore
+have been helpless, at least for a time. The Hecla, however, being
+fortunately unencumbered, in consequence of having lain in a less
+sheltered place, sent her boats with a hawser to the margin of the young
+ice; and ours being carried to meet it, by men walking upon planks, at
+considerable risk of going through, she at length succeeded in pulling
+us out; and, getting into clear water, or, rather, into less tough ice,
+at three P.M. we shaped a course to the eastward.
+
+In our return to Igloolik we encountered a severe gale, but we luckily
+discovered it at half past ten A.M., though such was the difficulty of
+distinguishing this from Neerlo-nakto, or either from the mainland, on
+account of the snow that covered them, that, had it not been for the
+Esquimaux huts, we should not easily have recognised the place. At noon
+on the 24th we arrived off the point where the tents had first been
+pitched, and were immediately greeted by a number of Esquimaux, who came
+running down to the beach, shouting and jumping with all their might.
+
+As soon as we had anchored I went on shore, accompanied by several of
+the officers, to pay the Esquimaux a visit, a crowd of them meeting us,
+as usual, on the beach, and greeting us with every demonstration of joy.
+They seemed disappointed that we had not reached Akkolee, for they
+always receive with eagerness any intelligence of their distant country
+people. Many of them, and Toolemak among the number, frequently repeated
+the expressions "_Owyak Na-o_!" (no summer), "_Took-too Na-o!_" (no
+reindeer), which we considered at the time as some confirmation of our
+own surmises respecting the badness of the past summer. When we told
+them we were come to winter among them, they expressed very great, and,
+doubtless, very sincere delight, and even a few _koyennas_ (thanks)
+escaped them on the first communication of this piece of intelligence.
+
+We found these people already established in their winter residences,
+which consisted principally of the huts before described, but modified
+in various ways both as to form and materials. The roofs, which were
+wholly wanting in the summer, were now formed by skins stretched tight
+across from side to side. This, however, as we soon afterward found, was
+only a preparation for the final winter covering of snow; and, indeed,
+many of the huts were subsequently lined in the same way within, the
+skins being attached to the sides and roof by slender threads of
+whalebone, disposed in large and regular stitches. Before the passages
+already described, others were now added, from ten to fifteen feet in
+length, and from four to five feet high, neatly constructed of large
+flat slabs of ice, cemented together by snow and water. Some huts also
+were entirely built of this material, of a rude circular or octangular
+form, and roofed with skins like the others. The light and transparent
+effect within these singular habitations gave one the idea of being in a
+house of ground glass, and their newness made them look clean,
+comfortable, and wholesome. Not so the more substantial bone huts,
+which, from their extreme closeness and accumulated filth, emitted an
+almost insupportable stench, to which an abundant supply of raw and
+half-putrid walrus' flesh in no small degree contributed. The passages
+to these are so low as to make it necessary to crawl on the hands and
+knees to enter them; and the floors of the apartments were in some
+places so slippery, that we could with difficulty pass and repass,
+without the risk of continually falling among the filth with which they
+were covered. These were the dirtiest, because the most durable, of any
+Esquimaux habitations we had yet seen; and it may be supposed they did
+not much improve during the winter. Some bitches with young were very
+carefully and conveniently lodged in small square kennels, made of four
+upright slabs of ice covered with a fifth, and having a small hole as a
+door in one of the sides. The canoes were also laid upon two slabs of
+this kind, like tall tombstones standing erect; and a quantity of spare
+slabs lying in different places, gave the ground an appearance somewhat
+resembling that of a statuary's yard. Large stores of walrus' and seals'
+flesh, principally the former, were deposited under heaps of stones all
+about the beach, and, as we afterward found, in various other parts of
+the island, which showed that they had made some provision for the
+winter, though, with their enormous consumption of food, it proved a
+very inadequate one.
+
+Leaving the Fury at seven A.M. on the 26th, and being favoured by a
+fresh easterly breeze, we soon cleared the southwest point of Igloolik;
+and, having passed the little island of _Oogli=aghioo_, immediately
+perceived to the W.N.W. of us a group of islands, so exactly answering
+the description of Coxe's Group, both in character and situation, as to
+leave no doubt of our being exactly in Captain Lyon's former track.
+Being still favoured by the wind and by the total absence of fixed ice,
+we reached the islands at eleven A.M., and, after sailing a mile or two
+among them, came at once in sight of two bluffs, forming the passage
+pointed out by Toolemak, and then supposed to be called _Khemig_. The
+land to the north, called by the Esquimaux _Khiadlaghioo_, was now found
+to be, as we had before conjectured, the southern shore of Richards's
+Bay. The land on our left or to the southward proved an island, five
+miles and a quarter in length, of the same bold and rugged character as
+the rest of this numerous group, and by far the largest of them all. To
+prevent the necessity of reverting to this subject, I may at once add,
+that two or three months after this, on laying before Ewerat our own
+chart of the whole coast, in order to obtain the Esquimaux names, we
+discovered that the island just mentioned was called _Khemig_, by which
+name Ormond Island was _also_ distinguished; the word expressing, in the
+Esquimaux language, anything stopping up the mouth of a place or
+narrowing its entrance, and applied also more familiarly to the cork of
+a bottle, or a plug of any kind. And thus were reconciled all the
+apparent inconsistencies respecting this hitherto mysterious and
+incomprehensible word, which had occasioned us so much perplexity.
+
+At daylight on the 27th we crossed to a small island at the margin of
+the ice; and leaving the boat there in charge of the coxswain and two of
+the crew, Mr. Ross and myself, accompanied by the other two, set out
+across the ice at seven A.M. to gain the main land, with the intention
+of determining the extent of the inlet by walking up its southern bank.
+After an hour's good travelling, we landed at eight A.M., and had
+scarcely done so when we found ourselves at the very entrance, being
+exactly opposite the place from which Mr. Richards and myself had
+obtained the first view of the inlet. The patch of ice on which we had
+been walking, and which was about three miles long, proved the only
+remains of last year's formation; so forcibly had nature struggled to
+get rid of this before the commencement of a fresh winter.
+
+Walking quickly to the westward along this shore, which afforded
+excellent travelling, we soon perceived that our business was at an end,
+the inlet terminating a very short distance beyond where I had first
+traced it, the apparent turn to the northward being only that of a
+shallow bay.
+
+Having thus completed our object, we set out on our return, and reached
+the boat at three P.M., after a walk of twenty miles. The weather
+fortunately remaining extremely mild, no young ice was formed to
+obstruct our way, and we arrived on board at noon the following day,
+after an examination peculiarly satisfactory, inasmuch as it proved the
+non-existence of _any_ water communication with the Polar Sea, however
+small and unfit for the navigation of ships, to the southward of the
+Strait of the Fury and Hecla.
+
+I found from Captain Lyon on my return, that, in consequence of some ice
+coming in near the ships, he had shifted them round the point into the
+berths-where it was my intention to place them during the winter; where
+they now lay in from eleven to fourteen fathoms, at the distance of
+three cables' length from the shore.
+
+It was not till the afternoon of the 30th that the whole was completed,
+and the Fury placed in the best berth for the winter that circumstances
+would permit. An early release in the spring could here be scarcely
+expected, nor, indeed, did the nature of the ice about us, independently
+of situation, allow us to hope for it; but both these unfavourable
+circumstances had been brought about by a contingency which no human
+power or judgment could have obviated, and at which, therefore, it would
+have been unreasonable, as well as useless, to repine. We lay here in
+rather less than five fathoms, on a muddy bottom, at the distance of one
+cable's length from the eastern shore of the bay.
+
+The whole length of the canal we had sawed through was four thousand
+three hundred and forty-three feet; the thickness of the ice, in the
+level and regular parts, being from twelve to fourteen inches, but in
+many places, where a separation had occurred, amounting to several feet.
+I cannot sufficiently do justice to the cheerful alacrity with which the
+men continued this laborious work during thirteen days, the thermometer
+being frequently at _zero_, and once as low as -9 deg. in that interval. It
+was satisfactory, moreover, to find, that in the performance of this,
+not a single addition had been made to the sick-list of either ship,
+except by the accident of one man's falling into the canal, who returned
+to his duty a day or two afterward.
+
+While our people were thus employed, the Esquimaux had continued to make
+daily visits to the ships, driving down on sledges with their wives and
+children, and thronging on board in great numbers, as well to gratify
+their curiosity, of which they do not, in general, possess much, as to
+pick up whatever trifles we could afford to bestow upon them. These
+people were at all times ready to assist in any work that was going on,
+pulling on the ropes, heaving at the windlass, and sawing the ice,
+sometimes for an hour together. They always accompanied their exertions
+by imitating the sailors in their peculiar manner of "singing out" when
+hauling, thus, at least, affording the latter constant amusement, if not
+any very material assistance, during their labour. Among the numerous
+young people at Igloolik, there were some whose activity on this and
+other occasions particularly struck us. Of these I shall, at present,
+only mention two: _N=o=ogloo_, an adopted son of Toolemak, and
+_K=ong~ol~ek_, a brother of "John Bull." These two young men, who
+were from eighteen to twenty years of age, and stood five feet seven
+inches in height, displayed peculiar _tact_ in acquiring our method of
+heaving at the windlass, an exercise at which _K=ong~ol~ek_ became
+expert after an hour or two's practice. The countenances of both were
+handsome and prepossessing, and their limbs well-formed and muscular;
+qualities which, combined with their activity and manliness, rendered
+them (to speak like a naturalist), perhaps, as fine specimens of the
+human race as almost any country can produce.
+
+Some of our Winter Island friends had now arrived also, being the party
+who left us there towards the end of the preceding May, and whom we had
+afterward overtaken on their journey to the northward. They were
+certainly all very glad to see us again, and, throwing off the Esquimaux
+for a time, shook us heartily by the hand, with every demonstration of
+sincere delight. Ewerat, in his quiet, sensible way, which was always
+respectable, gave us a circumstantial account of every event of his
+journey. On his arrival at _Owlitteweek_, near which island we overtook
+him, he had buried the greater part of his baggage under heaps of
+stones, the ice no longer being fit for dragging the sledge upon. Here
+also he was happily eased of a still greater burden, by the death of his
+idiot boy, who thus escaped the miseries to which a longer life must,
+among these people, have inevitably exposed him. As for that noisy
+little fellow, "John Bull" (_Kooillitiuk_), he employed almost the whole
+of his first visit in asking every one, by name, "How d'ye do, Mr. So
+and So?" a question which had obtained him great credit among our people
+at Winter Island. Being a very important little personage, he also took
+great pride in pointing out various contrivances on board the ships, and
+explaining to the other Esquimaux their different uses, to which the
+latter did not fail to listen with all the attention due to so knowing
+an oracle.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+
+     Preparations for the Winter.--Various Meteorological Phenomena to
+     the close of the year 1822.--Sickness among the
+     Esquimaux.--Meteorological Phenomena to the end of March.
+
+
+
+_November_.--The measures now adopted for the security of the ships and
+their stores, for the maintenance of economy, cleanliness, and health,
+and for the prosecution of the various observations and experiments,
+being principally the same as those already detailed in the preceding
+winter's narrative, I shall be readily excused for passing them over in
+silence.
+
+The daily visits of the Esquimaux to the ships throughout the winter
+afforded, both to officers and men, a fund of constant variety and
+never-failing amusement, which no resources of our own could possibly
+have furnished. Our people were, however, too well aware of the
+advantage they derived from the schools not to be desirous of their
+re-establishment, which accordingly took place soon after our arrival at
+Igloolik; and they were glad to continue this as their evening
+occupation during the six succeeding months.
+
+The year closed with the temperature of -42 deg., the mean of the month of
+December having been 27 deg. 8', which, taken in connexion with that of
+November, led us to expect a severe winter.
+
+About the middle of the month of December several of the Esquimaux had
+moved from the huts at Igloolik, some taking up their quarters on the
+ice at a considerable distance to the northwest, and the rest about a
+mile outside the summer station of the tents. At the close of the year
+from fifty to sixty individuals had thus decamped, their object being,
+like that of other savages on _terra firma_, to increase their means of
+subsistence by covering more ground; their movements were arranged so
+quietly that we seldom heard of their intentions till they were gone. At
+the new stations they lived entirely in huts of snow; and the northerly
+and easterly winds were considered by them most favourable for their
+fishing, as these served to bring in the loose ice, on which they
+principally kill the walruses.
+
+Towards the latter end of January [1823], the accounts from the huts, as
+well from the Esquimaux as from our own people, concurred in stating
+that the number of the sick, as well as the seriousness of their
+complaints, was rapidly increasing there. We had, indeed, scarcely heard
+of the illness of a woman named _Kei-m=o=o-seuk_, who, it seemed,
+had lately miscarried, when an account arrived of her death. She was one
+of the two wives of _Ooyarra_, one of Captain Lyon's fellow-travellers
+in the summer, who buried her in the snow, about two hundred yards from
+the huts, placing slabs of the same perishable substance over the body,
+and cementing them by pouring a little water in the interstices. Such an
+interment was not likely to be a very secure one; and, accordingly, a
+few days after, the hungry dogs removed the snow and devoured the body.
+
+Captain Lyon gave me the following account of the death and burial of
+another poor woman and her child:
+
+
+     "The mother, Poo-too-alook, was about thirty-five years of age, the
+     child about three years--yet not weaned, and a female; there was
+     also another daughter, Shega, about twelve or thirteen years of
+     age, who, as well as her father, was a most attentive nurse. My
+     hopes were but small, as far as concerned the mother; but the child
+     was so patient that I hoped, from its docility, soon to accustom it
+     to soups and nourishing food, as its only complaint was actual
+     starvation. I screened off a portion of my cabin, and arranged some
+     bedding for them, in the same manner as the Esquimaux do their own.
+     Warm broth, dry bedding, and a comfortable cabin, did wonders
+     before evening, and our medical men gave me great hopes. As an
+     introduction to a system of cleanliness, and preparatory to
+     washing the sick, who were in a most filthy state, I scrubbed Shega
+     and her father from head to foot, and dressed them in new clothes.
+     During the night I persuaded both mother and child, who were very
+     restless, and constantly moaning, to take a few spoonfuls of soup.
+     On the morning of the 24th the woman appeared considerably
+     improved, and she both spoke and ate a little. As she was covered
+     with so thick a coating of dirt that it could be taken off in
+     scales, I obtained her assent to wash her face and hands a little
+     before noon. The man and his daughter now came to my table to look
+     at some things I had laid out to amuse them; and, after a few
+     minutes, Shega lifted up the curtain to look at her mother, when
+     she again let it fall, and tremblingly told us she was dead.
+
+     "The husband sighed heavily, the daughter burst into tears, and the
+     poor little infant made the moment more distressing by calling in a
+     plaintive tone on its mother, by whose side it was lying. I
+     determined on burying the woman on shore, and the husband was much
+     pleased at my promising that the body should be drawn on a sledge
+     by men instead of dogs; for, to our horror, Takkeelikkeeta had told
+     me that dogs had eaten part of Keimooseuk, and that, when he left
+     the huts with his wife, one was devouring the body as he passed it.
+
+     "Takkeelikkeeta now prepared to dress the dead body, and, in the
+     first place, stopped his nose with deer's hair and put on his
+     gloves, seeming unwilling that his naked hand should come in
+     contact with the corpse. I observed, in this occupation, his care
+     that every article of dress should be as carefully placed as when
+     his wife was living; and, having drawn the boots on the wrong legs,
+     he pulled them off again and put them properly. This ceremony
+     finished, the deceased was sewed up in a hammock, and, at the
+     husband's urgent request, her face was left uncovered. An officer
+     who was present at the time agreed with me in fancying that the
+     man, from his words and actions, intimated a wish that the living
+     child might be enclosed with its mother. We may have been mistaken,
+     but there is an equal probability that we were right in our
+     conjecture; for, according to Crantz and Egede, the Greenlanders
+     were in the habit of burying their motherless infants, from a
+     persuasion that they must otherwise starve to death, and also from
+     being unable to bear the cries of the little ones while lingering
+     for several days without sustenance; for no woman will give them
+     any share of their milk, which they consider as the exclusive
+     property of their own offspring. My dogs being carefully tied up at
+     the man's request, a party of our people, accompanied by me, drew
+     the body to the shore, where we made a grave, about a foot deep,
+     being unable to get lower on account of the frozen earth. The body
+     was placed on its back, at the husband's request, and he then
+     stepped into the grave and cut all the stitches of the hammock,
+     although without throwing it open, seeming to imply that the dead
+     should be left unconfined. I laid a woman's knife by the side of
+     the body, and we filled up the grave, over which we also piled a
+     quantity of heavy stones, which no animal could remove. When all
+     was done and we returned to the ship, the man lingered a few
+     minutes behind us and repeated two or three sentences, as if
+     addressing himself to his departed wife; he then silently followed.
+     We found Shega quite composed, and attending her little sister,
+     between whose eyebrows she had made a spot with soot, which I
+     learned was because, being unweaned, it must certainly die. During
+     the night my little charge called on its mother without
+     intermission, yet the father slept as soundly until morning as if
+     nothing had happened.
+
+     "All who saw my patient on the morning of the 25th gave me great
+     hopes; she could swallow easily, and was even strong enough to turn
+     or sit upright without assistance, and in the forenoon slept very
+     soundly. At noon, the sister of the deceased, Ootooguak, with her
+     husband and son, came to visit me. She had first gone to the Fury,
+     and was laughing on deck, and, at her own request, was taken below,
+     not caring to hurry herself to come to the house of mourning. Even
+     when she came to the Hecla she was in high spirits, laughing and
+     capering on deck as if nothing had happened; but, on being shown to
+     my cabin, where Shega, having heard of her arrival, was sitting
+     crying in readiness, she began with her niece to howl most wofully.
+     I, however, put a stop to this ceremony, for such it certainly was,
+     under the plea of disturbing the child. The arrival of a pot of
+     smoking walrus-flesh soon brought smiles on all faces but that of
+     Takkeelikkeeta, who refused food and sat sighing deeply; the others
+     ate, chatted, and laughed as if nothing but eating was worth
+     thinking of. Dinner being over, I received thanks for burying the
+     woman in such a way that 'neither wolves, dogs, nor foxes could dig
+     her up and eat her,' for all were full of the story of Keimooseuk,
+     and even begged some of our officers to go to Igloolik and shoot
+     the offending dogs. A young woman named Ablik, sister to Ooyarra,
+     was induced, after much entreaty and a very large present of beads,
+     to offer her breast to the sick child, but the poor little creature
+     pushed it angrily away. Another woman was asked to do the same;
+     but, although her child was half weaned, she flatly refused.
+
+     "The aunt of my little one seeming anxious to remain, and Shega
+     being now alone, I invited her to stop the night. In the evening
+     the child took meat and jelly, and sat up to help itself, but it
+     soon after resumed its melancholy cry for its mother. At night my
+     party had retired to sleep; yet I heard loud sighing occasionally,
+     and, on lifting the curtain, I saw Takkeelikkeeta standing and
+     looking mournfully at his child. I endeavoured to compose him, and
+     he promised to go to bed; but, hearing him again sighing in a few
+     minutes, I went and found the poor infant was dead, and that its
+     father had been some time aware of it. He now told me it had seen
+     its mother the last time it called on her, and that she had
+     beckoned it to Khil-la (Heaven), on which it instantly died. He
+     said it was 'good' that the child was gone; that no children
+     outlived their mothers; and that the black spot, which Shega had
+     frequently renewed, was quite sufficient to ensure the death of the
+     infant.
+
+     "My party made a hearty breakfast on the 26th, and I observed they
+     did not scruple to lay the vessel containing the meat on the dead
+     child, which I had wrapped in a blanket; and this unnatural table
+     excited neither disgust nor any other feeling among them more than
+     a block of wood could have done. We now tied up all the dogs, as
+     Takkeelikkeeta had desired, and took the child about a quarter of a
+     mile astern of the ships, to bury it in the snow; for the father
+     assured me that her mother would cry in her grave if any weight of
+     stones or earth pressed on her infant. She herself, he feared, had
+     already felt pain from the monument of stones which we had laid
+     upon her. The snow in which we dug the child's grave was not above
+     a foot deep, yet we were not allowed to cut into the ice, or even
+     use any slabs of it in constructing the little tomb. The body,
+     wrapped in a blanket, and having the face uncovered, being placed,
+     the father put the slings by which its deceased mother had carried
+     it on the right side, and, in compliance with the Esquimaux custom
+     of burying toys and presents with their dead, I threw in some
+     beads. A few loose slabs of snow were now placed so as to cover,
+     without touching, the body, and with this very slight sepulchre the
+     father was contented, although a fox could have dug through it in
+     half a minute. We, however, added more snow, and cemented all by
+     pouring about twenty buckets of water, which were brought from the
+     ship, on every part of the mound. I remarked that, before our task
+     was completed, the man turned and walked quietly to the ships.
+
+     "During the last two days I obtained some information with respect
+     to mourning ceremonies, or, at all events, such as related to the
+     loss of a mother of a family; three days were to be passed by the
+     survivors without their walking on the ice, performing any kind of
+     work, or even having anything made for them. Washing is out of the
+     question with Esquimaux at most times, but now I was not allowed to
+     perform the necessary ablutions of their hands and faces, however
+     greasy or dirty they might be made by their food; the girl's hair
+     was not to be put into pig-tails, and everything was neglected;
+     Takkeelikkeeta was not to go sealing until the summer. With the
+     exception of an occasional sigh from the man, there were no more
+     signs of grief; our mourners ate, drank, and were merry, and no one
+     would have supposed they ever had wife, mother, or sister. When the
+     three days (and it is singular that such should be the time) were
+     expired, the man was to visit the grave; and, having talked with
+     his wife, all duties were to be considered as over. The 28th was
+     our third day, but a heavy northerly gale and thick drift prevented
+     our visiting the grave. The 29th, although not fine, was more
+     moderate, and I accompanied him at an early hour. Arriving at the
+     grave, he anxiously walked up to it and carefully sought for
+     foot-tracks on the snow; but, finding none, repeated to himself,
+     'No wolves, no dogs, no foxes; thank ye, thank ye.' He now began a
+     conversation, which he directed entirely to his wife. He called her
+     twice by name, and twice told her how the wind was blowing, looking
+     at the same time in the direction from whence the drift was coming.
+     He next broke forth into a low monotonous chant, and, keeping his
+     eyes fixed upon the grave, walked slowly round it in the direction
+     of the sun four or five times, and at each circuit he stopped a few
+     moments at the head. His song was, however, uninterrupted. At the
+     expiration of about eight minutes he stopped, and, suddenly
+     turning round to me, exclaimed, '_Tugw~a_' (that's enough), and
+     began walking back to the ship. In the song he chanted I could
+     frequently distinguish the word _Koyenna_ (thank you), and it was
+     occasionally coupled with the Kabloonas. Two other expressions,
+     both the names of the spirits or familiars of the Annatko,
+     Toolemak, were used a few times; but the whole of the other words
+     were perfectly unintelligible to me.
+
+     "I now sent Shega and her father home, well clothed and in good
+     case. The week they had passed on board was sufficient time to gain
+     them the esteem of every one, for they were the most quiet,
+     inoffensive beings I ever met with; and, to their great credit,
+     they never once begged. The man was remarkable for his
+     extraordinary fondness for treacle, sugar, salt, acids, and
+     spruce-beer, which the others of the tribe could not even smell
+     without disgust; and he walked about to the different messes in
+     hopes of being treated with these delicacies. Shega was a timid,
+     well-behaved girl, and generally remained eating in my cabin, for I
+     am confident of speaking far within bounds when I say she got
+     through eight pounds of solids per diem. As far as gratitude could
+     be shown by Esquimaux, which is saying 'koyenna' on receiving a
+     present, my friends were sensible of the attentions I had shown
+     them."
+
+
+_March_ 5th.--The Esquimaux were about this time rather badly off for
+food, in consequence of the winds having of late been unfavourable for
+their fishery; but this had only occurred two or three times in the
+course of the winter, and never so much as to occasion any great
+distress. It is certain, indeed, that the quantity of meat which they
+procured between the 1st of October and the 1st of April was sufficient
+to furnish about double the population of working people who were
+moderate eaters, and had any idea of providing for a future day; but to
+individuals who can demolish four or five pounds at a sitting, and at
+least ten in the course of a day,[003] and who never bestow a thought on
+to-morrow, at least with a view to provide for it by economy, there is
+scarcely any supply which could secure them from occasional scarcity. It
+is highly probable that the alternate feasting and fasting to which the
+gluttony and improvidence of these people so constantly subject them,
+may have occasioned many of the complaints that proved fatal during the
+winter; and on this account we hardly knew whether to rejoice or not at
+the general success of their fishery. Certain it is, that on a
+particular occasion of great plenty, one or two individuals were seen
+lying in the huts, so distended by the quantity of meat they had eaten
+that they were unable to move, and were suffering considerable pain,
+arising solely from this cause. Indeed, it is difficult to assign any
+other probable reason for the lamentable proportion of deaths that took
+place during our stay at Igloolik, while, during a season of nearly
+equal severity, and of much greater privation as to food, at Winter
+Island, not a single death occurred. Notwithstanding their general
+plenty, there were times in the course of this winter, as well as the
+last, when our bread-dust was of real service to them, and they were
+always particularly desirous of obtaining it for their younger children.
+They distinguished this kind of food by the name of _k=an~ibr~o~ot_,
+and biscuit or soft bread by that of _sh=eg~al~ak_, the literal meaning
+of which terms we never could discover, but supposed them to have some
+reference to their respective qualities.
+
+Our lengthened acquaintance with the Esquimaux and their language, which
+a second winter passed among them afforded, gave us an opportunity of
+occasionally explaining to them in some measure in what direction our
+country lay, and of giving them some idea of its distance, climate,
+population, and productions. It was with extreme difficulty that these
+people had imbibed any correct idea of the superiority of rank possessed
+by some individuals among us; and when at length they came into this
+idea, they naturally measured our respective importance by the riches
+they supposed each to possess. The ships they considered, as a matter
+of course, to belong to Captain Lyon and myself, and on this account
+distinguished them by the names of _Lyon-oomiak_ and _Paree-oomiak_; but
+they believed that the boats and other parts of the furniture were the
+property of various other individuals among us. They were, therefore,
+not a little surprised to be seriously assured that neither the one nor
+the other belonged to any of us, but to a much richer and more powerful
+person, to whom we all paid respect and obedience, and at whose command
+we had come to visit and enrich the _Innuees_. Ewerat, on account of his
+steadiness and intelligence, as well as the interest with which he
+listened to anything relating to _Kabloonas_, was particularly fit to
+receive information of this nature; and a general chart of the Atlantic
+Ocean, and of the lands on each side, immediately conveyed to his mind
+an idea of the distance we had come, and the direction in which our home
+lay. This and similar information was received by Ewerat and his wife
+with the most eager astonishment and interest, not merely displayed in
+the "hei-ya!" which constitutes the usual extent of Esquimaux
+admiration, but evidently enlarging their notion respecting the other
+parts of the world, and creating in them ideas which could never before
+have entered their minds. By way of trying their inclinations, I asked
+them if they would consent to leave their own country, and, taking with
+them their children, go to live in ours, where they would see no more
+_Innuees_, and never eat any more seal or walrus. To all this they
+willingly agreed, and with an earnestness that left no doubt of their
+sincerity; Togolat adding, in an emphatic manner, "_Shagloo ooagoot
+nao_" (we do not tell a falsehood), an expression of peculiar force
+among them. The eagerness with which they assented to this proposal made
+me almost repent my curiosity, and I was glad to get out of the scrape
+by saying, that the great personage of whom I had spoken would not be
+pleased at my taking them home without having first obtained his
+permission. Information of the kind alluded to was subsequently given to
+many of the other Esquimaux, some of whom could at length pronounce the
+name of "King George" so as to be tolerably intelligible.
+
+The weather was now so pleasant, and the temperature in the sun so
+comfortable to the feelings when a shelter could be found from the wind,
+that we set up various games for the people, such as cricket, football,
+and quoits, which some of them played for many hours during the day.
+
+At the close of the month of March, we were glad to find that its mean
+temperature, being -19.75 deg., when taken in conjunction with those of
+January and February, appeared to constitute a mild winter for this
+latitude. There were, besides, some other circumstances, which served to
+distinguish this winter from any preceding one we had passed in the ice.
+One of the most remarkable of these was the frequent occurrence of hard,
+well-defined clouds, a feature we had hitherto considered as almost
+unknown in the winter sky of the Polar Regions. It is not improbable
+that these may have, in part, owed their origin to a large extent of sea
+keeping open to the southeastward throughout the winter, though they not
+only occurred with the wind from that quarter, but also with the colder
+weather, usually accompanying northwesterly breezes. About the time of
+the sun's reappearance, and for a week or two after it, these clouds
+were not more a subject of admiration to us on account of their novelty,
+than from the glowing richness of the tints with which they were
+adorned. It is, indeed, scarcely possible for nature, in any climate, to
+produce a sky exhibiting greater splendour and richness of colouring
+than we at times experienced in the course of this spring. The edges of
+the clouds near the sun often presented a fiery or burning appearance,
+while the opposite side of the heavens was distinguished by a deep
+purple about the horizon, gradually softening upward into a warm yet
+delicate rose-colour of inconceivable beauty. These phenomena have
+always impressed us the most forcibly about the time of the sun's
+permanent setting and that of his reappearance, especially the latter,
+and have invariably furnished a particular subject of conversation to us
+at those periods; but I do not know whether this is to be attributed so
+much to the colouring of the sky exactly at the times alluded to, as to
+our habit of setting on every enjoyment a value proportioned to its
+scarceness and novelty.
+
+Another peculiarity observed in this winter was the rare occurrence of
+the Aurora Borealis, and the extraordinary poorness of its display
+whenever it did make its appearance. It was almost invariably seen to
+the southward, between an E.S.E. and a W.S.W. bearing, generally low,
+the stationary patches of it having a tendency to form an irregular
+arch, and not unfrequently with coruscations shooting towards the
+zenith. When more diffused it still kept, in general, on the southern
+side of the zenith; but never exhibited any of those rapid and
+complicated movements observed in the course of the preceding winter,
+nor, indeed, any feature that renders it necessary to attempt a
+particular description. The electrometer was frequently tried, by Mr.
+Fisher, at times when the state of the atmosphere appeared the most
+favourable, but always without any sensible effect being produced on the
+gold leaf.
+
+The difference in the temperature of the day and night began to be
+sensible as early as the first week in March, and the daily range of the
+thermometer increased considerably from that time. The increase in the
+average temperature of the atmosphere, however, is extremely slow in
+these regions, long after the sun has attained a considerable meridian
+altitude; but this is in some degree compensated by the inconceivable
+rapidity with which the days seem to lengthen when once the sun has
+reappeared. There is, indeed, no change which continues to excite so
+much surprise as that from almost constant darkness to constant day; and
+this is, of course, the more sudden and striking, in proportion to the
+height of the latitude. Even in this comparatively low parallel, the
+change seemed sufficiently remarkable; for, soon after the middle of
+March, only ten weeks after the sun's reappearance above the horizon, a
+bright twilight appeared at midnight in the northern heavens.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+
+     Various Journeys to the Esquimaux Stations.--Preparations for the
+     Hecla's Return to England.--Remarkable Halos, &c.--Shooting Parties
+     stationed at Arlagnuk.--Journeys to Quilliam Creek.--Arrival of
+     Esquimaux from the Northward.--Account of a Journey to the Westward
+     for the purpose of reaching the Polar Sea.--The Esquimaux report
+     two Fishing-ships having been Wrecked.--A Journey performed to
+     Cockburn Island.--Discovery of Murray Maxwell Inlet.
+
+
+
+About the first and second weeks in April, the Esquimaux were in the
+habit of coming up the inlet, to the southward of the ships, to kill the
+_neitiek,_ or small seal, which brings forth its young at this season,
+and probably retires into sheltered places for that purpose. Besides the
+old seals, which were taken in the manner before explained, the
+Esquimaux also caught a great number of young ones, by fastening a hook
+to the end of a staff, and hooking them up from the sea-hole after the
+mother had been killed. Our large fishhooks were useful to them for this
+purpose, and the beautiful silvery skins of these young animals were
+occasionally brought to the ships as articles of barter: those of the
+foetus of the _neitiek_ are more yellow than the others, and, indeed,
+both in colour and texture, very much resemble raw silk.
+
+The first ducks noticed by the Esquimaux were mentioned to us on the
+16th, and a few days afterward immense flocks appeared, all of the
+king-duck species, about the open water near the margin of the ice; but
+our distance from this was so great, that we never saw any of them, and
+the weather was yet too cold to station a shooting-party in that
+neighbourhood. Dovekies were now also numerous, and a gull or two, of
+the silvery species, had been seen.
+
+On the 20th, after divine service, I took the opportunity of Captain
+Lyon and his people being on board the Fury, to communicate to the
+assembled officers and ships' companies my intentions respecting the
+future movements of the expedition; at the same time requesting Captain
+Lyon to furnish me with a list of any of the Hecla's men that might
+volunteer to remain out, as it would be necessary to fill up, or,
+perhaps, even to increase the complement of the Fury.
+
+Our preparations were therefore immediately commenced, a twelvemonths'
+provision and other stores being received by the Fury, and various
+necessary exchanges made in anchors, cables, and boats; and, in the
+course of a single fortnight, the whole of these were transported from
+ship to ship without any exposure or labour to the men outside their
+respective ships, our invaluable dogs having performed it for us with
+astonishing ease and expedition. It was a curious sight to watch these
+useful animals walking off with a bower-anchor, a boat, or a topmast,
+without any difficulty; and it may give some idea of what they are able
+to perform, to state, that nine dogs of Captain Lyon's dragged sixteen
+hundred and eleven pounds a distance of seventeen hundred and fifty
+yards in nine minutes, and that they worked in a similar way between the
+ships for seven or eight hours a day. The road was, however, very good
+at this time, and the dogs the best that could be procured.
+
+The wind settling to the southward for a few days near the end of April,
+brought an increased, and, to us a comfortable degree of warmth; and it
+was considered an event of some interest, that the snow which fell on
+the 29th dissolved as it lay on our decks, being the first time that it
+had done so this season. We now also ventured to take off some of the
+hatches for an hour or two in the day, and to admit some fresh air, a
+luxury which we had not known for six months. The Esquimaux, about this
+time, began to separate more than before, according to their usual
+custom in the spring; some of them, and especially our Winter Island
+acquaintance, setting off to the little islands called Oolglit, and
+those in our neighbourhood removing to the northeast end of Igloolik, to
+a peninsula called _Keiyuk-tarruoke_, to which, the open water was
+somewhat nearer. These people now became so much incommoded by the
+melting of their snow-huts, that they were obliged to substitute skins
+as the roofs, retaining, however, the sides and part of the passages of
+the original habitations. These demi-tents were miserable enough while
+in this state, some of the snow continually falling in, and the floor
+being constantly wet by its thawing.
+
+Favourable as the first part of the month of May had appeared with
+respect to temperature, its close was by no means equally promising, and
+on the first of June, at two A.M., the thermometer stood at +8 deg. This
+unusually low temperature, much exceeding in severity anything we had
+experienced at Melville Island at the same season, rendered it
+necessary to defer for a time a journey which it was proposed that
+Captain Lyon should undertake, across the land to the westward at the
+head of Quilliam Creek, and thence, by means of the ice, along the
+shores of the Polar Sea, in the direction towards Akkoolee. The object
+of this journey, like that of most of the others which had been
+performed in various directions, was to acquire all the information
+within our reach of those parts of the continental coast to which the
+ships were denied access; and it was hoped that, at the coming season,
+some judgment might be formed of the probable state of the ice along
+that shore in the summer, by which the future movements of the Fury
+might be influenced. Captain Lyon was to be accompanied by two men, and
+a complete supply of every kind for a month's travelling was to be drawn
+on a sledge by ten excellent dogs, which he had taken great pains to
+procure and train for such occasions. As I was desirous of ascertaining,
+beyond any doubt, the identity of the _Khemig_, to which I had sailed in
+the autumn, with that seen by Captain Lyon on his journey with the
+Esquimaux, I determined to accompany the travellers on my sledge as far
+as the head of Quilliam Creek, and by victualling them thus far on their
+journey, enable them to gain a day or two's resources in advance.
+Another object which I had in view was to endeavour to find a lake
+mentioned by Toolemak; who assured me that, if I could dig holes in the
+ice, which was five feet thick, plenty of large salmon might be caught
+with hooks, an experiment which seemed at least well worth the trying.
+
+On the 7th, the weather being more favourable than before, Captain Lyon
+and myself set out to the westward at half past eleven A.M., and the ice
+proving level, reached Khemig at half past five; when it was
+satisfactory to find that the route followed by Captain Lyon on his
+journey with Toolemak was precisely that which I had supposed, every
+feature of the land, of which the fog had before scarcely allowed him a
+glimpse, being now easily recognised, and every difficulty cleared up.
+Proceeding at eight A.M. on the 8th, we soon met with numerous tracks of
+deer upon the ice, which, together with the seals that lay in great
+numbers near their holes, expedited our journey very considerably, the
+dogs frequently setting off at full gallop on sniffing one of them.
+Landing at the head of Quilliam Creek at half past one, we took up an
+advantageous position for looking about us, in order to determine on the
+direction of Captain Lyon's route over land, which all the Esquimaux
+concurred in representing as a laborious one. We met with several
+reindeer immediately on our landing; and, while in pursuit of them,
+Captain Lyon discovered a lake two or three miles long and a quarter of
+a mile broad, a short distance from the tents, which we concluded to be
+that of which I was in search. As some of our party were suffering from
+snow-blindness, and, what is scarcely less painful, severe inflammation
+of the whole face, occasioned by the heat of the sun, we remained here
+for the rest of this day to make our final arrangements.
+
+At nine A.M. on: the 9th we struck the tents, and Captain Lyon set off
+to the southward, while we drove over to the lake, which is one mile
+N.N.W. of the head of the creek, and, after three or four hours'
+labour, completed a hole through the ice, which was very dark-coloured,
+brittle, and transparent, and, as Toolemak had said, about five feet
+thick. The water, which was eleven fathoms deep, flowed up within a
+couple of inches of the surface, over which lay a covering of snow
+eighteen inches in depth. In confident hope of now obtaining some fish,
+we proceeded exactly according to Toolemak's instructions; but, after
+four-and-twenty hours' trial at all depths, not even a single nibble
+rewarded our labour.
+
+Coasting the south shore, on which I wished to obtain observations and
+angles for the survey, we the next day entered a small bay, where we
+pitched our tent; our whole party being now so snow-blind with
+endeavouring to distinguish the land from the ice (so entirely were both
+covered with snow), that we could literally no longer muster one eye
+among three of us to direct the sledge. I found a handkerchief tied
+close, but not too tightly, round the eyes for a whole night, to be a
+more effectual remedy for this disagreeable complaint than any
+application of eyewater; and my companions being induced to try the same
+experiment, derived equal benefit from it. Reaching Arlagnuk towards
+evening of the 13th, we found that our parties had each thirty or forty
+ducks ready for the ships; and that the Esquimaux had lately altogether
+deserted this station, owing to the scarcity of walruses, and had
+removed to Ooglit, where these animals were said to be abundant at this
+season. Leaving our people on the morning of the 14th, I returned on
+board soon after noon, where I found that nothing worthy of particular
+notice had occurred during my absence.
+
+On the 20th three or four other Esquimaux, strangers to us, arrived at
+Igloolik from the northward, and we found from two young men who visited
+us on the following day, that they came from _Too-n=o=o-nek_, a
+place undoubtedly situated somewhere on the western coast of Baffin's
+Bay, or about some of the inlets communicating with it, as they had
+there seen several _Kabloona_ ships employed in killing whales. It is
+not improbable, from the various accounts of the direction and distance
+of Toonoonek, communicated by the Esquimaux through the usual medium of
+their charts, that the part of the seacoast so named lies at no great
+distance from Pond's Bay, in lat. 72-1/2 deg., which has lately become a
+common rendezvous of our Davis's Strait fishermen. Of this fact we had,
+in the course of the winter, received intimation from these people from
+time to time, and had even some reason to believe that our visit to the
+Esquimaux of the River Clyde in 1820 was known to them; but what most
+excited our interest at this time was the sledge brought by the new
+comers, the runner being composed of large single pieces of wood, one of
+them painted black over a lead-coloured priming, and the cross-bars
+consisting of heading-pieces of oak-buts, one flat board with a
+hinge-mark upon it the upper end of a skid or small boat's davit, and
+others that had evidently and recently been procured from some ship. On
+one of the heading-pieces we distinguished the letters _Brea_--, showing
+that the cask had, according to the custom of the whalers, contained
+bread on the outward passage. The nature of all these materials led us
+to suppose that it must have been procured from some vessel wrecked or
+damaged on the coast; and this suspicion was on the following day
+confirmed by our obtaining information that, at a place called
+Akk=o=odneak, a single day's journey beyond Toonoonek, two ships
+like ours had been driven on shore by the ice, and that the people had
+gone away in boats equipped for the purpose, leaving one ship on her
+beam ends, and the other upright, in which situation the vessels were
+supposed still to remain.[004]
+
+We observed on this occasion as on our first arrival at Igloolik, that
+the new Esquimaux were obliged to have recourse to the others to
+interpret to them our meaning, which circumstance, as it still appeared
+to me, was to be attributed, as before, to our speaking a kind of broken
+Esquimaux that habit had rendered familiar to our old acquaintance,
+rather than to any essential difference in the true languages of the two
+people.
+
+Toolemak having some time before promised to accompany me to the
+fishing-place, taking with him his wife, together with his sledge, dogs,
+and tent, made his appearance from Ooglit on the 23d, bringing, however,
+only the old lady and abundance of meat. Having lent him a tent and two
+of our dogs, and hired others to complete his establishment, we set out
+together at five A.M. on the 24th, my own party consisting of Mr.
+Crozier and a seaman from each ship. Arriving at Khemig towards noon, we
+found among the islands that the ice was quite covered with water,
+owing, probably, to the radiation of heat from the rocks. The weather
+proved, indeed, intensely hot this day, the thermometer in the shade, at
+the ships, being as high as 51 deg., and the land in this neighbourhood
+preventing the access of wind from any quarter. The travelling being
+good beyond this, we arrived within four or five miles of the head of
+Quilliam Creek at ten P.M., where we pitched the tents for the night. In
+this day's journey ten dogs had drawn my sledge a distance of forty
+statute miles since the morning, the weight on the sledge being about
+twelve hundred pounds, and half of the road very indifferent. It is the
+custom of the Esquimaux, even when meat is most abundant, to feed these
+invaluable animals only once a day, and that in the evening, which they
+consider to agree with them better than more frequent meals; we always
+observed the same practice with ours, and found that they performed
+their journeys the better for it.
+
+On the morning of the 25th, while passing close to a point of land,
+Toolemak suddenly stopped his sledge, and he and his wife walked to the
+shore, whither I immediately followed them. The old woman, preceding her
+husband, went up to a circle of stones, of which there were two or three
+on the spot, and, kneeling down within it, cried most loudly and
+bitterly for the space of two or three minutes, while Toolemak also shed
+abundant tears, but without any loud lamentation. On inquiring presently
+after, I found that this was the spot on which their tent had been
+pitched in the summer, and that the bed-place on which the old woman
+knelt had been that of their adopted son _Noogloo_, whose premature
+death we had all so much regretted. The grief displayed on this
+occasion seemed to have much sincerity in it, and there was something
+extremely touching in this quiet but unaffected tribute of sorrow on the
+spot, which so forcibly reminded them of the object of their parental
+affection. I have much gratification in adding, in this place, another
+circumstance, which, though trifling in itself, deserves to be noticed
+as doing honour to these people's hearts. They had always shown
+particular attachment to a dog they had sold me, and which bore the same
+name as a young man, a son of their own, whom they had formerly lost. In
+the course of this journey, the old woman would constantly call the dog
+"Eerninga" (son), which the affectionate animal never failed to repay by
+jumping up and licking her face all over, whenever his trace would allow
+him; and at night, after Toolemak had fed his own dogs, he frequently
+brought to our tent an extra piece of meat, expressly for
+_Ann=owtalik_, to whom these poor people seemed to take a mournful
+pleasure in now transferring their affection.
+
+Landing close to the head of the inlet on the south shore, we proceeded
+with difficulty a couple of miles over land till we came to a river, the
+limits of which the warmth of the weather was just rendering
+discernible, and which, our guides informed us was to be our fishing
+place. It was interesting to observe that, in every case of doubt as to
+the situation of a place, the best route, or the most advisable method
+of overcoming any difficulty, Toolemak invariably referred to his wife;
+and a consultation of some minutes was held by these two before they
+would determine on what was to be done, or even return an answer to our
+questions respecting it. Pitching our tents upon the banks of the river,
+we went upon the ice, which was still quite solid except close to the
+shores, and soon made two or three holes for a hook and line, the
+thickness of the ice in the middle being from six to seven feet. The
+Esquimaux fishhook is generally composed of a piece of ivory, having a
+hook of pointed iron, without a barb, let into it. The ivory they
+consider useful in attracting the salmon, but they also bait the hook
+with a piece of blubber well cleared of its oil by chewing, and securely
+tied on with a thread of sinew, so as to cover nearly the whole of the
+hook. A small piece of bone, reindeer's horn, or wood, serves as a rod,
+and with this they keep the bait constantly in motion up and down, the
+bait being from one to three feet below the surface of the ice.
+Previous, however, to commencing the fishery, the old lady, who took the
+principal part in this employment, muttered some words, to me altogether
+incomprehensible, over the hole, to which Toolemak, in a formal manner,
+added something about fish and _Kabloonas_; and the whole of this
+preparatory ceremony seemed intended to propitiate the spirit to whose
+department the salmon particularly belonged. The lady (for it seems she
+is a female) did not, however, appear to lend a very favourable ear to
+our wants or Toolemak's rhetoric; for, after many hours' patient trial
+on this and the following day, only two fish were seen and one caught to
+repay our labour.
+
+On the 27th Toolemak and his wife went over to a small shallow lake, on
+the opposite side of the river, where they caught three or four fish of
+the salmon kind, but none more than one pound in weight. He then came
+back to the tent, and made a small spear according to their own fashion;
+but with this, to his great disappointment, he could not strike a single
+fish. A sort of _fish-gig_, which we made out of four large hooks lashed
+back to back at the end of a light staff, succeeded much better, the
+bait being played in the usual manner to attract the fish, which were
+then hooked up with great ease and certainty by this instrument. In this
+manner we soon caught a dozen of the same kind as before; and the rest
+of our party had in the mean time killed a deer.
+
+Toolemak began now to be extremely impatient to return home, his
+principal anxiety arising, I believe, from a childish desire to know
+what I should give him for his trouble; and when, in writing a note to
+Lieutenant Nias, I enumerated the articles I intended to present to him,
+he expressed more delight than I had ever before seen escape him. Among
+these was one of the rifle-guns supplied as presents, together with a
+sufficient quantity of ammunition to last him one summer, after which
+the gun would probably become useless itself for want of cleaning. It
+was astonishing to see the readiness with which these people learned to
+fire at a mark, and the tact they displayed in everything relating to
+this art. Boys from twelve to sixteen years of age would fire a
+fowling-piece, for the first time, with perfect steadiness; and the men,
+with very little practice, would very soon become superior
+marksmen.[005] As, however, the advantage they could derive from the
+use of firearms must be of very short duration, and the danger to any
+careless individuals very considerable, we did not, on any other
+occasion, consider it prudent to furnish them in this manner.
+
+On the morning of the 28th Toolemak had left us for the ships, carrying
+with him our venison to be left there, and having first explained when
+and where the Esquimaux catch the fish with which he had supplied us the
+preceding summer; for it now appeared that they were not found in great
+abundance, or of that magnitude, in the river, but at the mouth of a
+very small stream about two miles lower down the creek on the same side.
+Their method is, to place in the bed of the stream, which is quite
+narrow, and seldom or never so deep as a man's middle, though running
+with great force, two or three separate piles of stones, which serve the
+double purpose of keeping off the force of the stream from themselves,
+and of narrowing the passage through which the fish have to pass in
+coming up from the sea to feed; thus giving the people an opportunity of
+striking them with their spears, and throwing them on the shore without
+much difficulty.
+
+On the afternoon of the 1st of July we shifted our tents overland, and
+down the creek as far as the salmon stream. In performing this short
+journey over bare ground, I was enabled to form some conception of the
+difficulties likely to be encountered by Captain Lyon and his
+companions; for, even with our light load, the dogs could scarcely move
+at times. One of the strongest of eleven fell down in a fit occasioned
+by over exertion; the poor animal lay on his side, foaming at the mouth
+for a minute or two, but soon recovered sufficiently to be able to walk;
+and, being taken out of the sledge, was quite strong again the next day.
+We had scarcely arrived at the stream, when Toolemak's account was very
+satisfactorily confirmed by our finding on the ice near its mouth part
+of two fine salmon, above two feet in length, that had been thrown up by
+the force of the torrent, and a similar one was seen in the water. Our
+provisions being now out, we prepared for returning to the ships the
+following day; and I determined in a short time to send out Mr. Crozier
+with a larger party, well equipped with everything necessary for
+procuring us both fish and deer. We therefore left our tent, spare
+ammunition, and various other articles that would be required here,
+buried under a heap of stones near the stream, and on the morning of the
+2d set out for the ships. The change which one week had made upon the
+ice it is quite impossible to conceive, the whole surface being now
+checkered with large and deep pools of water, where not a symptom of
+thawing had before appeared. This continued the whole way to the ships,
+which we reached at eight P.M., finding Captain Lyon and his party
+returned, after a laborious but unsuccessful endeavour to penetrate
+overland to the westward. On my arrival at the ships I found several
+new Esquimaux on board, who, to the number of twenty, had lately
+arrived from _Toon=o=onee-r=o=ochiuk_, a place situated to the
+westward and northward of Igloolik, and somewhere upon the opposite
+coast of Cockburn Island. This party confirmed the former account
+respecting the two ships that had been forced on shore; and, indeed, as
+an earnest of its truth, one man named _Adloo_, who was said to have
+actually seen them in this state, was a day or two afterward met by our
+people at Arlagnuk, while travelling to the southward, and having on his
+sledge a great deal of wood of the same kind as that before described.
+
+This information having excited considerable interest, Lieutenant
+Hoppner, who had taken great pains to ascertain the facts correctly,
+volunteered his services to accompany some of the Esquimaux, who were
+said to be going northward very shortly, and to obtain every information
+on this and other subjects which might be within the scope of such a
+journey. On the night of the 4th, having heard that a party of the
+Esquimaux intended setting out the following morning, Lieutenant Hoppner
+and his people went out to their tents to be in readiness to accompany
+them. We were surprised to find the next day, that not only Lieutenant
+Hoppner's intended guide, but the whole of the rest of these people, had
+altogether left the island, and, as it afterward proved, permanently for
+the summer. We were now, therefore, for the first time since our arrival
+here, entirely deserted by the natives, only two or three of whom again
+visited the ships during the remainder of our stay. It appears probable,
+indeed, that these wandering people are in the habit of residing at
+their various stations only at particular intervals of time, perhaps
+with the intention of not scaring the walruses and seals too much by a
+very long residence at one time upon the same spot. What made this
+appear still more likely was the present state of their winter
+habitations at Igloolik, which, though offensive enough at about the
+same time the preceding year, were then wholesome and comfortable in
+comparison. Besides quantities of putrid walrus flesh, blubber, and oil,
+carcasses of dogs, and even of human beings recently deceased, were now
+to be seen exposed in their neighbourhood. What remained of the corpse
+of Keim=o=oseuk was of course wholly uncovered; a second, of a
+child, on which the wolves had feasted, was also lying about; and a
+third, of a newly-born infant, was discovered in the middle of a small
+lake by Mr. Richards, who caused them all to be buried under ground.
+
+Our stock of meat for the dogs being nearly expended, and no seahorses
+having yet been seen near the shore, I sent Mr. Ross with a sledge to
+Tern Island on the 13th, in expectation of being supplied by the
+Esquimaux. Mr. Ross returned on the 14th without success, the whole of
+the natives having left the island after plundering the birds' nests, as
+they had done the preceding year.
+
+Finding that our valuable dogs must be now wholly dependant on our own
+exertions in providing meat, a boat from each ship was carried down to
+the neighbourhood of the open water, and shortly afterward two others,
+to endeavour to kill walruses for them. This was the more desirable from
+the probability of the Fury's passing her next winter where no natives
+were resident, and the consequent necessity of laying in our stock for
+that long and dreary season during the present summer. Our people,
+therefore, pitched their tents near the old Esquimaux habitations; and
+thus were four boats constantly employed, whenever the weather would
+permit, for the three succeeding weeks.
+
+On the 16th Lieutenant Hoppner and his party returned to the ships,
+having only been enabled to travel to the south shore of Cockburn
+Island, on account of their guides not yet proceeding any farther. Two
+of the Esquimaux accompanied our travellers back to Igloolik, and, being
+loaded with various useful presents from the ships, returned home the
+following day.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+
+     Extraordinary Disruption of Ice in Quilliam Creek.--Some Appearance
+     of Scurvy among the Seamen and Marines.--Discovery of Gifford
+     River.--Commence cutting the Ice outside the Ships to release them
+     from their Winter-quarters.--Considerations respecting the Return
+     of the Expedition to England.--Unfavourable State of the Ice at the
+     Eastern Entrance of the Strait.--Proceed to the Southward.--Ships
+     beset and drifted up Lyon Inlet.--Decease of Mr. George
+     Fife.--Final Release from the Ice, and Arrival in England.--Remarks
+     upon the practicability of a Northwest Passage.
+
+
+
+Among the various changes which the warmth of the returning summer was
+now producing around us, none was more remarkable than that noticed by
+Captain Lyon in an excursion to Quilliam Creek, and which, in a note
+received from him by the return of the sledges on the 17th, he thus
+describes: "Between the two points forming the entrance of the creek, we
+saw a high wall of ice extending immediately across from land to land,
+and on arriving at it, found that, by some extraordinary convulsion, the
+floe had burst upward, and that immense masses of ice had been thrown in
+every direction. Several blocks, eight or nine feet in thickness, and
+many yards in diameter, were lying on the level solid floe; yet we were
+for some time at a loss to discover whence they had been ejected, till
+at length we found a hole or pool, which appeared so small as to be
+hardly capable of containing the immense fragments near it; yet from
+this place alone must they have been thrown."
+
+Captain Lyon subsequently added, that "the water, which was found to be
+quite fresh, was running rapidly to seaward in this opening; and it
+seemed probable that the vast accumulation from the streams at the head
+of the creek, although at about ten miles distance, had burst a passage,
+and thus ejected the ice. The force employed for this purpose may be
+conceived, when I mention that, of several masses of ice, one in
+particular was above eight feet thick, full forty yards in
+circumference, and lay more than five hundred yards from the pool. No
+traces could be found of the manner in which these bodies had been
+transported, as not a single small fragment was seen lying about, to
+warrant the supposition that they had fallen with a shock. Neither were
+there any marks observable on the smooth uncracked floe to cause a
+suspicion that they had slidden over it, the general appearance of the
+floe at this place being the same as at all other parts of the inlet,
+and bearing no marks of having had any rush of water over it."
+
+The weather was now, at times, extremely sultry, bringing out swarms of
+moschetoes, that soon became very troublesome, even on board the ships.
+A thermometer suspended in the middle of the observatory, and exposed to
+the sun's rays, was observed by Mr. Fisher to stand at 92 deg. at five P.M.
+on the 18th.
+
+On the 19th Captain Lyon returned from Quilliam Creek, bringing with him
+the whole of our party stationed there, the ice being now so broken up
+in that neighbourhood as to render the fishing dangerous without proper
+boats. On this journey, which it took two days to perform, eleven dogs
+drew a weight of two thousand and fifty pounds, of which six hundred and
+forty were salmon, and ninety-five venison, procured by our people. The
+fish had all been caught in the trawl; and treble the quantity might
+easily have been taken with a seine, had we known how wide the mouth of
+the stream was to become. They varied in length from twenty to twenty
+six inches, and one of the largest, when cleaned, weighed eight pounds
+and a half; but their average weight in this state did not exceed two
+pounds and a quarter. The distance of the fishing-place from the ships,
+the dangerous state of the ice, and the soreness of the dogs' feet from
+travelling on the rough, honey-combed ice, prevented our taking any
+farther advantage of this very acceptable change of diet.
+
+Nothing worthy of notice occurred till the 29th, when a patch of ice, a
+mile broad, separated from the outer margin of our barrier and drifted
+away. The canal formed by laying sand on the ice was now quite through
+in most places, showing that the plan would, in this latitude at least,
+always ensure a ship's escape at an earlier season than by the regular
+course of nature, provided it could be carried the whole way down to the
+open water.
+
+I am now under the disagreeable necessity of entering on a subject which
+I had at one time ventured to hope need scarcely occupy any part of this
+narrative: I mean that of the scurvy, some slight but unequivocal
+symptoms of which disease were this day reported to me, by Mr. Edwards,
+to have appeared among four or five of the Fury's men, rendering it
+necessary, for the first time during the voyage, to have recourse to
+antiscorbutic treatment among the seamen and marines.
+
+It will, perhaps, be considered a curious and singular fact in the
+history of sea-scurvy, that during the whole of the preceding part of
+this voyage, none among us but officers were in the slightest degree
+affected by it, a circumstance directly contrary to former experience.
+To whatever causes this might be attributed, it could not, however, but
+be highly gratifying to be thus assured that the various means employed
+to preserve the health of the seamen and marines had proved even beyond
+expectation efficacious.
+
+That a ship's company began to evince symptoms of scurvy after
+twenty-seven months' entire dependance upon the resources contained
+within their ship (an experiment hitherto unknown, perhaps, in the
+annals of navigation, even for one fourth part of that period), could
+scarcely, indeed, be a subject of wonder, though it was at this
+particular time a matter of very sincere regret. From the health enjoyed
+by our people during two successive winters, unassisted as we had been
+by any supply of _fresh_ antiscorbutic plants or other vegetables, I
+had began to indulge a hope that, with a continued attention to their
+comforts, cleanliness, and exercise, the same degree of vigour might,
+humanly speaking, be ensured at least as long as our present liberal
+resources should last. Present appearances, however, seemed to indicate
+differently; for, though our sick-list had scarcely a name upon it, and
+almost every individual was performing his accustomed duty, yet we had
+at length been impressed with the unpleasant conviction that a strong
+predisposition to disease existed among us, and that no very powerful
+exciting cause was wanting to render it more seriously apparent. Such a
+conviction at the present crisis was peculiarly disagreeable; for I
+could not but lament any circumstance tending to weaken the confidence
+in our strength and resources at a time when more than ordinary exertion
+was about to be required at our hands.
+
+The 1st of August had now arrived; and yet, incredible as it may appear,
+the ships were as securely confined in the ice as in the middle of
+winter, except that a pool of water, about twice their own length in
+diameter, was now opened around them. I determined, therefore,
+notwithstanding the apparent hopelessness of sawing our way through four
+or five miles of ice, to begin that laborious process; not, indeed, with
+the hope of cutting a canal sufficiently large to allow the passage of
+the ships to sea, but with a view to weaken it so much as in some
+measure to assist its disruption whenever any swell should set in upon
+its margin. On this and the following day, therefore, all the gear was
+carried down for that purpose, and a large tent pitched for the ships'
+companies to dine in, the distance being too great to allow them to
+return on board to their meals. On the 3d, however, we were saved a
+great deal of unnecessary labour, by the ice opening out at the crack
+before mentioned, so that our sawing might now be commenced within a
+mile of the Fury. After divine service, therefore, all hands were sent
+from both ships to bring back the tent and tools to the point of
+Oongalooyat, and the parties were recalled from the walrus-fishery,
+except a single boat's crew: these also returned on board a few days
+after, the whole number of seahorses killed being eight, and one large
+seal.
+
+On the 4th our sawing work was commenced, with the usual alacrity on the
+part of the officers and men, and three hundred and fifty yards of ice
+were got out before night, its thickness varying from one to four feet,
+but very irregular on account of the numerous pools and holes. An equal
+length was accomplished on the following day, though not without
+excessive fatigue and constant wet to the men, several of whom fell into
+the water by the ice breaking under them.
+
+On the 5th, the register-thermometer, which had been placed in the
+ground in the winter, was taken up, though, to our astonishment, the
+ground above and about it had become nearly as hard and compactly frozen
+as when we dug the hole to put it down. How this came about we were
+quite at a loss to determine; for the earth had been thrown in quite
+loosely, whereas its present consolidated state implied its having been
+thoroughly thawed and frozen again. It occupied two men ten days to
+extricate it, which, as they approached the thermometer, was done by a
+chisel and mallet, to avoid injury by jarring. This, however, was not
+sufficient to prevent mischief, the instrument being so identified with
+the frozen earth as to render it impossible to strike the ground near it
+without communicating the shock to the tubes, two of which were in
+consequence found to be broken. Thus ended our experiment for
+ascertaining the temperature of the earth during the winter; an
+experiment which it would seem, from this attempt, scarcely practicable
+to make in any satisfactory manner without some apparatus constructed
+expressly for the purpose.
+
+On the 6th the work was continued as before, and about four hundred
+yards of ice were sawn through and floated out, leaving now a broad
+canal, eleven hundred yards in length, leading from the open water
+towards that formed by the gravelled space.
+
+When the lateness of the season to which the ships had now been detained
+in the ice is considered, with reference to the probability of the
+Fury's effecting anything of importance during the short remainder of
+the present summer, it will not be wondered at that, coupling this
+consideration with that of the health of my officers and men, I began to
+entertain doubts whether it would still be prudent to adopt the intended
+measure of remaining out in the Fury as a single ship; whether, in
+short, under existing circumstances, the probable evil did not far
+outweigh the possible good. In order to assist my own judgment on this
+occasion upon one of the most material points, I requested the medical
+officers of the Fury to furnish me with their opinions "as to the
+probable effect that a third winter passed in these regions would
+produce on the health of the officers, seamen, and marines of that ship,
+taking into consideration every circumstance connected with our
+situation." Their answer was decidedly adverse to remaining; and it was
+fortified with such good reasons, connected with the health of the
+officers and crews, as scarcely to leave me at liberty to adopt any
+other course than that of returning to England with both vessels.
+
+Enclosing to Captain Lyon the replies of the medical gentlemen, I now
+also requested his opinion whether, under existing circumstances, he
+still considered it expedient to adopt the measure originally intended,
+with respect to the separation of the two ships. I had scarcely
+despatched a letter to this effect, when, at 10 A.M. on the 8th, the ice
+about the Fury began to move, the pools breaking up, and the gravelled
+canal soon entirely closing. A breeze springing up from the northward at
+this time, all sail was made upon the ship, and the ice gradually
+driving out as it detached itself from the shore, the Fury got into open
+water about one P.M. The Hecla, however, still remained in the middle of
+her winter's floe, which, though it moved a little with the rest at
+first, did not come out of the bay. In the course of the afternoon,
+finding her still stationary, I determined to occupy the time in
+stretching over to the northward, for the purpose of examining the state
+of the fixed ice at the eastern mouth of the strait; and, arriving at
+its margin by ten P.M., found it attached to both shores from the
+northeastern part of Neerlo-naktoo across to Murray Maxwell Inlet. It
+was the general opinion that this ice was in a more solid state than at
+the same time and place the preceding year, but its situation did not, I
+believe, differ half a mile from what it had then been. As the sun went
+down nearly in the direction of the strait, we obtained from the
+masthead a distinct and extensive view in that quarter, and it is
+impossible to conceive a more hopeless prospect than this now presented.
+One vast expanse of level solid ice occupied the whole extent of sea
+visible to the westward, and the eye wearied itself in vain to discover
+a single break upon its surface.
+
+Having finished this examination, which at once destroyed every hope I
+had never ceased to indulge of a passage through the strait, we returned
+towards Igloolik to rejoin the Hecla. It was not, however, till the
+morning of the 9th that we observed her to be moving out of the bay,
+when at length (for the first time, perhaps, that such an event ever
+occurred) she drove to sea in the middle of the floe. Thus at the mercy
+of the ice, she was carried over the shoals off the southeast point of
+Igloolik in six and a half fathoms, but was then fortunately drifted
+into deeper water. The swell on the outside was all that was wanting to
+break up her icy prison, which, separating at seven A.M., finally
+released her from confinement.
+
+Having soon afterward received Captain Lyon's answer to my
+communication, it was necessary for me to come to a final determination
+on the subject therein alluded to. For various reasons, he advised that
+the Fury and Hecla should return to England together, as soon as such
+arrangements respecting the removal of stores and provisions, as I might
+judge proper to make, should be completed.
+
+Under such circumstances, to which may be added the uncertainty of the
+Hecla's liberation from the ice to the southward before the close of the
+season, I no longer considered it prudent or justifiable, upon the
+slender chance of eventual success now before us, to risk the safety of
+the officers and men committed to my charge, and whom it was now my
+first wish to reconduct in good health to their country and their
+friends. Having communicated my intentions to the officers and ships'
+companies, I directed several additions to be made to their ordinary
+allowance of provisions, particularly in the various antiscorbutics,
+which had hitherto been reserved for cases of emergency; and then
+beating up to our winter station, which I named Turton Bay, we anchored
+there in the afternoon in ten fathoms, and immediately commenced our
+preparations for lightening the Fury. Seven months' provisions, a bower
+anchor, and a few other stores, were received by the Hecla, some of her
+water, before filled as ballast, being started to make room for them;
+and such other arrangements made as circumstances would permit for
+improving the stowage of the Fury's hold. The bay was now entirely clear
+of ice in every part; and so changed was its appearance in the course of
+the last four-and-twenty hours, that it was scarcely possible to believe
+it the same place that we had been accustomed daily to look upon for the
+ten preceding months.
+
+The conveyance and stowage of the stores had scarcely been completed,
+when some loose ice drifting into the bay with the tide on the night of
+the 10th, obliged us hastily to get under way and stand out. On the
+following morning I ran across to the main land in the Fury, for the
+purpose of erecting, in compliance with my instructions, a flagstaff
+fifty-six feet in height, having at its top a ball, made of iron hoops
+and canvass, ten feet in diameter, and a cylinder buried near its foot,
+containing a parchment with some account of our visit to this place. In
+the mean time, I requested Captain Lyon to stand over to the point of
+Igloolik, where our walruses had been landed, and to bring off these, as
+well as our boats and tents remaining there. The ice soon after coming
+in upon the point, it was not without risk of the Hecla's being
+dangerously beset that Captain Lyon succeeded in bringing off everything
+but one boat. This was, indeed, no great loss to us, though a great
+acquisition to the Esquimaux; for, being almost worn out, I had intended
+to break her up previously to leaving the ice. Besides this, we
+purposely left our sledges, and a quantity of wood in pieces of a
+convenient size for bows, spears, and paddles, distributing them about
+in several places, that one or two individuals might not make a prize of
+the whole.
+
+The Hecla rejoining us on the morning of the 12th, we stood out to the
+eastward, and finally took our departure from Igloolik. In the course of
+the night the favourable breeze failed us, and on the morning of the
+14th was succeeded by a southerly wind, the ships being close to another
+island called Ooglit, about twelve leagues to the S.S.W. of the others.
+We were here immediately visited by our old acquaintance the Esquimaux,
+several of whom came off in their canoes in the course of the morning,
+as if determined to loose no opportunity of profiting by us. Among these
+was our worthy old friend Nannow, to whom everybody was glad to give
+something; and, indeed, they all received as many presents as their
+canoes could safely carry or tow on shore. Their tents, nine in number
+were pitched on the main land, a little to the northward of Ooglit, at a
+station they call _Ag-wis-se-=o-wik_, of which we had often heard
+them speak at Igloolik. They now also pointed out to us Amitioke, at the
+distance of four or five leagues to the southward and westward, which
+proved to be the same piece of low land that we had taken for it in
+first coming up this coast. The Esquimaux told us that a number of their
+younger men were inland in pursuit of deer, and that the rest had
+abundant supplies of walrus, which animals we saw in considerable
+numbers about this place.
+
+We were now for some days all but beset in this neighbourhood, calms or
+light southerly and easterly breezes constantly prevailing. During this
+time the main body of ice remained, in most parts, close to the shore,
+leaving us only a "hole" of water to work about in, and much nearer to
+the land than on this shoal and shelving coast was altogether safe for
+the ships. Notwithstanding this, however, we had soon occasion to
+observe that they not only kept their ground, but even drew to the
+southward, owing, no doubt, to the current before found to set in that
+direction along the coast.
+
+The ice remained close the whole of the 26th; but we continued, as
+usual, to drift generally to the southward, and the next morning, being
+off Owlitteeweek, were enabled to cast off and make sail, the ice being
+rather more open than before. Being favoured by a commanding northerly
+breeze, we ran a considerable distance to the southward, having,
+however, only just room to sail between the points of the closely packed
+ice and a flat, dangerous shore. Without escaping for a moment, from our
+confined situation, and almost without perceiving any motion of the
+masses of ice among themselves, we had, at noon on the 30th, drifted
+down within a mile of a small island lying near the northeast point of
+Winter Island. On the 31st the tide took us through between these, the
+breadth of the passage being three quarters of a mile, in no less than
+sixteen fathoms water. We then passed within a dangerous reef of rocks,
+lying a full mile from the shore, and having numerous heavy masses of
+grounded ice upon it. After clearing this in a good depth of water, we
+were, by the evening, carried along shore within a mile of Cape Fisher.
+
+Thus had we, in a most singular manner, once more arrived at our old
+winter-quarters, with scarcely a single successful exertion on our parts
+towards effecting that object. The distance from Ooglit to our present
+station was about one hundred and sixty miles along the coast. Of this
+we had never _sailed_ above forty, the rest of the distance having
+been accomplished, while we were immoveably beset, by mere drifting. The
+interval thus employed having been barely eight days, gives an average
+drift to the southward of above fifteen miles per day.
+
+In the afternoon of the 6th I was much pained at being informed by
+telegraph from the Hecla, that Mr. Fife, Greenland master of that ship,
+had just expired, an event which for some days past there had been but
+too much reason to apprehend; the scurvy having within the last three
+weeks continued to increase considerably upon him. It is proper for me,
+however, both in justice to the medical officers under whose skilful and
+humane care he was placed, and to the means with which we were in this
+way so liberally supplied, to state, that during a part of that time Mr.
+Fife had taken so great a dislike to the various antiscorbutics which
+were administered to him, that he could seldom be induced to use any of
+them. The disease, in consequence, reduced him to a state of extreme
+debility, which at length carried him off almost without pain. The Hecla
+being at the time closely beset, and in a situation of great danger
+among the shoals off Winter Island, Captain Lyon caused the remains of
+the deceased to be committed to the sea with all the solemnity which
+circumstances would permit.
+
+In the night of the 6th, the ships, which had before nearly closed each
+other, were again separated to the distance of several miles, though no
+motion was perceptible in the masses of ice about them. On the evening
+of the 11th, however, the wind at length began to freshen from the
+northwest, when the ice immediately commenced driving down the inlet at
+the rate of a mile an hour, carrying the Fury with it, and within half a
+mile of the rocks, the whole way down to Cape Martineau, but keeping
+her in deep water. In the mean time the Hecla had been swept into much
+more dangerous situations, passing along the east and south sides of
+Winter Island; and, after driving nearly up to Five-hawser Bay, being
+carried near some dangerous shoals about Cape Edwards, where Captain
+Lyon expected every other tide that she would take the ground.
+
+On the 15th, when the ships had closed each other within a mile, we
+could see the clear water from the masthead, and the Hecla could now
+have been easily extricated. Such, however, are the sudden changes that
+take place in this precarious navigation, that not long afterward the
+Fury was quite at liberty to sail out of the ice, while the Hecla was
+now, in her turn, so immoveably fast set, and even cemented between
+several very heavy masses, that no power that could be applied was
+sufficient to move her an inch. In this situation she remained all the
+16th, without our being able to render her any assistance; and the frost
+being now rather severe at night, we began to consider it not improbable
+that we might yet be detained for another winter. We were perhaps,
+indeed, indebted for our escape to a strong westerly breeze, which blew
+for several hours on the 17th, when, the ice being sufficiently close to
+allow our men to walk to the assistance of the Hecla, we succeeded,
+after seven hours' hard labour, in forcing her into clear water, when
+all sail was made to the eastward, and our course shaped for the Trinity
+Islands in a perfectly open sea.
+
+We thus finally made our escape from the ice after having been almost
+immoveably beset in it for twenty-four days out of the last twenty-six,
+in the course of which time the ships had been taken over no less than
+one hundred and forty leagues of ground, generally very close to the
+shore, and always unable to do anything towards effecting their escape
+from danger.
+
+We made the Trinity Islands on the 18th, and ran down Hudson's Strait
+with a favourable breeze, reaching the Orkneys on the morning of Oct.
+9th. It can scarcely, perhaps, be imagined by those who have not been
+similarly situated, with what eager interest one or two vessels were
+this day descried by us, being the first trace of civilized man that we
+had seen for the space of seven-and-twenty months. The breeze increasing
+to a fresh gale from the southward in the course of the night, with a
+heavy sea from the same quarter, rendering it impossible for us to make
+any progress in that direction, I determined to put into Lerwick in the
+Shetland Islands, to procure refreshments, and await a change in our
+favour. We accordingly bore up for that harbour early on the morning of
+the 10th, and at thirty minutes past ten A.M. anchored there, where we
+were immediately visited by a great number of the inhabitants, anxious
+to greet us on our return to our native country.
+
+I feel it utterly impossible adequately to express, the kindness and
+attention we received for the three or four days that we were detained
+in Bressay Sound by a continuance of unfavourable winds. On the first
+information of our arrival the bells of Lerwick were set ringing, the
+inhabitants flocked from every part of the country to express their joy
+at our unexpected return, and the town was at night illuminated, as if
+each individual had a brother or a son among us.
+
+On the 13th, a breeze springing up from the northward, we took leave of
+our kind and hospitable friends, deeply sensible of the cordial and
+affectionate reception we had experienced; and, being still favoured by
+the wind, were abreast of Buchaness the following evening. On the 16th,
+being off Whitby, I went on shore there, and, after receiving the
+cordial greetings of a great number of the worthy inhabitants of Whitby,
+who had assembled to meet us on landing, set off for London, and arrived
+at the Admiralty on the morning of the 18th.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THIRD VOYAGE
+
+FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A NORTHWEST PASSAGE.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+Notwithstanding the want of success of the late expedition to the Polar
+Seas, it was resolved to make another attempt to effect a passage by
+sea, between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. The chief alterations in
+the equipment of the present expedition consisted in the placing of
+Sylvester's warming stove in the very bottom of the ship's hold, in
+substituting a small quantity of salt beef for a part of the pork, and
+in furnishing a much larger supply of newly corned beef. Preserved
+carrots and parsnips, salmon, cream, pickles of onions, beet-root,
+cabbage, and, to make the most of our stowage, _split_ peas, instead
+of whole ones, were supplied. A small quantity of beef pemmican, made by
+pounding the meat with a certain portion of fat, as described by Captain
+Franklin, was also furnished.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+
+     Passage to the Whale-fish Islands, and Removal of Stores from the
+     Transport.--Enter the Ice in Baffin's Bay.--Difficulties of
+     Penetrating to the Westward.--Quit the Ice in Baffin's
+     Bay.--Remarks on the Obstructions encountered by the Ships, and on
+     the Severity of the Season.
+
+
+
+The equipment of the Hecla and Fury, and the loading of the William
+Harris transport, being completed, we began to move down the river from
+Deptford on the 8th of May, 1824, and on the 10th, by the assistance of
+the steamboat, the three ships had reached Northfleet, where they
+received their powder and their ordnance stores.
+
+Early on the morning of the 3d of July, the whole of our stores being
+removed, and Lieutenant Pritchard having received his orders, together
+with our despatches and letters for England, the William Harris weighed
+with a light wind from the northward, and was towed out to sea by our
+boats.
+
+Light northerly winds, together with the dull sailing of our now
+deeply-laden ships, prevented our making much progress for several days,
+and kept us in the neighbourhood of numerous icebergs, which it is
+dangerous to approach when there is any swell. We counted from the deck,
+at one time, no less than one hundred and three of these immense bodies,
+some of them from one to two hundred feet in height above the sea; and
+it was necessary, in one or two instances, to tow the ships clear of
+them with the boats.
+
+From this time, indeed, the obstructions from the quantity, magnitude,
+and closeness of the ice were such as to keep our people almost
+constantly employed in heaving, warping, or sawing through it; and yet
+with so little success, that, at the close of the month of July, we had
+only penetrated seventy miles to the westward, or the longitude of about
+62 deg. 10'.
+
+_Sept_. 9th.--I shall, doubtless, be readily excused for not having
+entered in this journal a detailed narrative of the obstacles we met
+with, and of the unwearied exertions of the officers and men to overcome
+them, during the tedious eight weeks employed in crossing this barrier.
+
+The constant besetment of the ships, and our daily observations for
+latitude and longitude, afforded a favourable opportunity for
+ascertaining precisely the set of any currents by which the whole body
+of ice might be actuated. By attending very carefully to all the
+circumstances, it was evident that a daily set to the southward obtained
+when the wind was northerly, differing in amount from two or three, to
+eight or ten miles per day, according to the strength of the breeze; but
+a northerly current was equally apparent, and fully to the same amount,
+whenever the wind blew from the southward. A circumstance more
+remarkable than these, however, forced itself strongly upon my notice at
+this time, which was, that a _westerly_ set was very frequently
+apparent, even against a fresh breeze blowing from that quarter. I
+mention the circumstance in this place, because I may hereafter have to
+offer a remark or two on this fact, in connexion with some others of a
+similar nature noticed elsewhere.
+
+With respect to the dimensions of the ice through which we had now
+scrambled our way, principally by warping and towing, a distance of
+between three and four hundred miles, I remarked that it for the most
+part increased, as well in the thickness as the extent of the floes, as
+we advanced westward about the parallel of 71 deg. During our subsequent
+progress to the north, we also met with some of enormous dimensions,
+several of the floes, to which we applied our hawsers and the power of
+the improved capstan, being at their margin more than twenty feet above
+the level of the sea; and over some of these we could not see from the
+masthead. Upon the whole, however, the magnitude of the ice became
+somewhat less towards the northwest, and within thirty miles of that
+margin the masses were comparatively small, and their thickness much
+diminished. Bergs were in sight during the whole passage, but they were
+more numerous towards the middle of the "pack," and rather the most so
+to the southward.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+
+     Enter Sir James Lancaster's Sound.--Land at Cape Warrender.--Meet
+     with young Ice.--Ships beset and carried near the Shore.--Driven
+     back to Navy-board Inlet.--Run to the Westward, and enter Prince
+     Regent's Inlet.--Arrival at Port Bowen.
+
+
+
+All our past obstacles were in a moment forgotten when we once more saw
+an open sea before us; but it must be confessed that it was not so easy
+to forget that the middle of September was already near at hand,
+without having brought us even to the entrance of Sir James Lancaster's
+Sound. That not a moment might be lost, however, in pushing to the
+westward, a press of canvass was crowded, and, being happily favoured
+with an easterly breeze, on the morning of Sept. 10th we caught a
+glimpse of the high bold land on the north side of the magnificent inlet
+up which our course was once more to be directed. From the time of our
+leaving the main body of ice, we met with none of any kind, and the
+entrance to the Sound was, as usual, entirely free from it, except here
+and there a berg, floating about in that solitary grandeur, of which
+these enormous masses, when occurring in the midst of an extensive sea,
+are calculated to convey so sublime an idea.
+
+On the morning of the 12th we were once more favoured with a breeze from
+the eastward, but so light and unsteady that our progress was
+vexatiously slow; and on the 13th, when within seven leagues of Cape
+York, we had the mortification to perceive the sea ahead of us covered
+with young ice, the thermometer having, for two days past, ranged only
+from 18 deg. to 20 deg.
+
+The next breeze sprung up from the westward, drawing also from the
+southward, at times, out of Prince Regent's Inlet, and for three days we
+were struggling with the young ice to little or no purpose, now and then
+gaining half a mile of ground to windward in a little "hole" of open
+water, then losing as much by the necessity of bearing up or wearing
+(for the ice was too strong to allow us to tack), sallying from morning
+to night with all hands, and with the watch at night, two boats
+constantly under the bows; and, after all, rather losing ground than
+otherwise, while the young ice was every hour increasing in thickness.
+
+Towards sunset on the 17th we became more and more hampered, and were
+eventually beset during the night. The sea was covered with ice between
+us and the shore, all of this year's formation, but now of considerable
+thickness and formidable appearance. The wind continuing strong, the
+whole body was constantly pressed in upon the land, bearing the ships
+along with it, and doubling one sheet over another, sometimes to a
+hundred thicknesses. We quickly shoaled the water from seventy to forty
+fathoms, the latter depth occurring about a mile from the beach; and
+after this we drifted but little, the ice being blocked up between the
+point and a high perpendicular berg lying aground off it.
+
+Under such circumstances, it evidently became expedient to endeavour, by
+sawing, to get the ships as close in-shore as possible, so as to secure
+them either to grounded ice, or by anchoring within the shelter of a bay
+at no great distance inside of us; for it now seemed not unlikely that
+winter was about to put a premature stop to all farther operations at
+sea for this season. At all events, it was necessary to consult the
+immediate safety of the ships, and to keep them from being drifted back
+to the eastward. I therefore gave orders for endeavouring to get the
+ships in towards the bay, by cutting through what level floes still
+remained. So strong had been the pressure while the ice was forcing in
+upon us, that on the 20th, after liberating the Hecla on one side, she
+was as firmly cemented to it on the other, as after a winter's
+formation; and we could only clear her by heavy and repeated "sallying."
+After cutting in two or three hundred yards, while the people were at
+dinner on the 21st, our canal closed by the external pressure coming
+upon the parts which we had weakened, and in a few minutes the whole was
+once more in motion, or, as the seamen not inaptly expressed it,
+"alive," mass doubling under mass, and raising those which were
+uppermost to a considerable height. The ice thus pressed together was
+now about ten feet in thickness in some places, and on an average not
+less than four or five, so that, while thus forced in upon a ship,
+although soft in itself, it caused her to tremble exceedingly; a
+sensation, indeed, commonly experienced in forcing through young ice of
+considerable thickness. We were now once more obliged to be quiet
+spectators of what was going on around us, having, with extreme
+difficulty, succeeded in saving most of our tools that were lying on the
+ice when the squeezing suddenly began.
+
+A sudden motion of the ice, on the morning of the 22d, occasioned by a
+change of the wind to the S.E., threatened to carry us directly off the
+land. It was now, more than ever, desirable to hold on, as this breeze
+was likely to clear the shore, and, at the same time, to give us a run
+to the westward. Hawsers were therefore run out to the land-ice,
+composed of some heavy masses, almost on the beach. With the Hecla this
+succeeded, but the Fury being much farther from the shore, soon began to
+move out with the whole body of ice, which, carrying her close to the
+large berg off the point, swept her round the latter, where, after great
+exertion, Captain Hoppner succeeded in getting clear, and then made sail
+to beat back to us. In the mean time the strain put upon the Hecla's
+hawsers being too great for them, they snapped one after another, and a
+bower-anchor was let go as a last resource. It was one of Hawkins's,
+with the double fluke, and immediately brought up, not merely the ship,
+but a large floe of young ice which had just broken our stream-cable.
+All hands were sent upon the floe to cut it up ahead, and the whole
+operation was a novel, and, at times, a fearful one; for the ice, being
+weakened by the cutting, would suddenly gather fresh way astern,
+carrying men and tools with it, while the chain cable continued to
+plough through it in a manner which gave one the idea of something
+alive, and continually renewing its attacks. The anchor held
+surprisingly; and after this tremendous strain had been put upon it for
+above an hour, we had fairly cut the floe in two, and the ship was
+riding in clear water about half a mile from the shore.
+
+I was in hopes we should make some progress, for a large channel of
+clear water was left open in-shore; a breeze blew off the land, and the
+temperature of the atmosphere had again risen considerably. We had not
+sailed five miles, however, when a westerly wind took us aback, and a
+most dangerous swell set directly upon the shore, obliging me
+immediately to stand off the land; and the Fury being still to the
+eastward of the point, I ran round it in order to rejoin her before
+sunset.
+
+After midnight on the 27th the wind began to moderate, and, by degrees,
+also drew more to the southward than before. At daylight, therefore, we
+found ourselves seven or eight miles from the land; but no ice was in
+sight, except the "sludge," of honey-like consistence, with which almost
+the whole sea was covered. A strong blink, extending along the eastern
+horizon, pointed out the position of the main body of ice, which was
+farther distant from the eastern shore of the inlet than I ever saw it.
+Being assisted by a fine working breeze, which, at the same time,
+prevented the formation of any more ice to obstruct us, we made
+considerable progress along the land, and at noon were nearly abreast of
+Jackson Inlet, which we now saw to be considerably larger than our
+distant view of it on the former voyage had led us to suppose. A few
+more tacks brought us to the entrance of Port Bowen, which, for two or
+three days past, I had determined to make our wintering-place, if, as
+there was but little reason to expect, we should be so fortunate as to
+push the ships thus far. Beating up, therefore, to Port Bowen, we found
+it filled with "old" and "hummocky" ice, attached to the shores on both
+sides, as low down as about three-quarters of a mile below Stony Island.
+Here we made fast in sixty-two fathoms water, running our hawsers far in
+upon the ice, in case of its breaking off at the margin.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+
+     Winter Arrangements.--Improvements in Warming and Ventilating the
+     Ships.--Masquerades adopted as an Amusement to the
+     Men.--Establishment of Schools.--Astronomical
+     Observations.--Meteorological Phenomena.
+
+
+
+_Oct_.--Our present winter arrangements so closely resembled, in
+general, those before adopted, that a fresh description of them would
+prove little more than a repetition of that already contained in the
+narratives of our former voyages.
+
+To those who read, as well as to those who describe, the account of a
+winter passed in these regions can no longer be expected to afford the
+interest of novelty it once possessed; more especially in a station
+already delineated with tolerable geographical precision on our maps,
+and thus, as it were, brought near to our firesides at home.
+Independently, indeed, of this circumstance, it is hard to conceive any
+one thing more like another than two winters passed in the higher
+latitudes of the Polar Regions, except when variety happens to be
+afforded by intercourse with some other branch of "the whole family of
+man." Winter after winter, nature here assumes an aspect so much alike,
+that cursory observation can scarcely detect a single feature of
+variety. The winter of more temperate climates, and even in some of no
+slight severity, is occasionally diversified by a thaw, which at once
+gives variety and comparative cheerfulness to the prospect. But here,
+when once the earth is covered, all is dreary, monotonous whiteness; not
+merely for days or weeks, but for more than half a year together.
+Whichever way the eye is turned, it meets a picture calculated to
+impress upon the mind an idea of inanimate stillness, of that motionless
+torpor with which our feelings have nothing congenial; of anything, in
+short, but life. In the very silence there is a deadness with which a
+human spectator appears _out of keeping_. The presence of man seems an
+intrusion on the dreary solitude of this wintry desert, which even its
+native animals have for a while forsaken.
+
+I am persuaded, therefore, that I shall be excused in sparing the
+dulness of another winter's diary, and confining myself exclusively to
+those facts which appear to possess any scientific interest, to the few
+incidents which _did_ diversify our confinement, and to such remarks as
+may contribute to the health and comfort of any future sojourners in
+these dreary regions.
+
+It may well be supposed that, in this climate, the principal desideratum
+which art is called upon to furnish for the promotion of health, is
+warmth, as well in the external air as in the inhabited apartments.
+Exposure to a cold atmosphere, _when the body is well clothed_, produces
+no bad effect whatever beyond a frostbitten cheek, nose, or finger. As
+for any injury to healthy lungs from the breathing of cold air, or from
+sudden changes from this into a warm atmosphere, or _vice versa_, it may
+with much confidence be asserted that, with due attention to external
+clothing, there is nothing in this respect to be apprehended. This
+inference, at least, would appear legitimate, from the fact that our
+crews, consisting of one hundred and twenty persons, have for four
+winters been constantly undergoing, for months together, a change of
+from eighty to a hundred degrees of temperature, in the space of time
+required for opening two doors (perhaps less than half a minute),
+without incurring any pulmonary complaints at all.
+
+In speaking of the external clothing sufficient for health in this
+climate, it must be confessed that, in severe exposure, quite a _load_
+of woollen clothes, even of the best quality, is insufficient to retain
+a comfortable degree of warmth; a strong breeze carrying it off so
+rapidly, that the sensation is that of the cold piercing through the
+body. A jacket made very long, like those called by seamen
+"pea-jackets," and lined with fur throughout, would be more effectual
+than twice the weight of woollen clothes, and is, indeed, almost
+weather-proof. For the prevention of lumbago, to which our seamen are
+especially liable, from their well-known habit of leaving their loins
+imperfectly clothed, every man should be strictly obliged to wear, under
+his outer clothes, a canvass belt a foot broad, lined with flannel, and
+having straps to go over the shoulder.[006]
+
+It is certain, however, that no precautions in clothing are sufficient
+to maintain health during a Polar winter, without a due degree of warmth
+in the apartments we inhabit. Most persons are apt to associate with the
+idea of warmth, something like the comfort derived from a good fire on a
+winter's evening at home; but in these regions the case is
+inconceivably different: here it is not simple comfort, but health, and,
+therefore, ultimately life, that depends upon it. The want of a constant
+supply of warmth is here immediately followed by a condensation of all
+the moisture, whether from the breath, victuals, or other sources, into
+abundant drops of water, very rapidly forming on all the coldest parts
+of the deck. A still lower temperature modifies, and perhaps improves,
+the annoyance by converting it into ice, which again an occasional
+increase of warmth dissolves into water. Nor is this the amount of the
+evil, though it is the only visible part of it; for not only is a moist
+atmosphere thus incessantly kept up, but it is rendered stagnant also by
+the want of that ventilation which warmth alone can furnish. With an
+apartment in this state, the men's clothes and bedding are continually
+in a moist and unwholesome condition, generating a deleterious air,
+which there is no circulation to carry off; and, whenever these
+circumstances combine for any length of time together, so surely may the
+scurvy, to say nothing of other diseases, be confidently expected to
+exhibit itself.
+
+Every attention was, as usual, paid to the occupation and diversion of
+the men's minds, as well as to the regularity of their bodily exercise.
+Our former amusements being almost worn threadbare, it required some
+ingenuity to devise any plan that should possess the charm of novelty to
+recommend it. This purpose was completely answered by a proposal of
+Captain Hoppner, to attempt a _masquerade_, in which officers and men
+should alike take a part, but which, without imposing any restraint
+whatever, would leave every one to his own choice whether to join in
+this diversion or not. It is impossible that any idea could have proved
+more happy, or more exactly suited to our situation. Admirably dressed
+characters of various descriptions readily took their parts, and many of
+these were supported with a degree of spirit and genuine humour which
+would not have disgraced a more refined assembly; while the latter might
+not have disdained, and would not have been disgraced by, copying the
+good order, decorum, and inoffensive cheerfulness which our humble
+masquerade presented. It does especial credit to the dispositions and
+good sense of our men, that, though all the officers entered fully into
+the spirit of these amusements, which took place once a month, no
+instance occurred of anything that could interfere with the regular
+discipline, or at all weaken the respect of the men towards their
+superiors. Ours were masquerades without licentiousness; carnivals
+without excess.
+
+But an occupation not less assiduously pursued, and of infinitely more
+eventual benefit, was furnished by the re-establishment of our schools,
+under the voluntary superintendence of my friend Mr. Hooper in the
+Hecla, and of Mr. Mogg in the Fury. By the judicious zeal of Mr. Hooper,
+the Hecla's school was made subservient, not merely to the improvement
+of the men in reading and writing (in which, however, their progress was
+surprisingly great), but also to the cultivation of that religious
+feeling which so essentially improves the character of a seaman, by
+furnishing the highest motives for increased attention to every other
+duty. Nor was the benefit confined to the eighteen or twenty
+individuals whose want of scholarship brought them to the school-table,
+but extended itself to the rest of the ship's company, making the whole
+lower-deck such a scene of quiet rational occupation as I never before
+saw on board a ship. And I do not speak lightly when I express my
+thorough persuasion, that to the moral effects thus produced upon the
+minds of the men, were owing, in a very high degree, the constant yet
+sober cheerfulness, the uninterrupted good order, and even, in some
+measure, the extraordinary state of health which prevailed among us
+during this winter.
+
+The extreme facility with which sounds are heard at a considerable
+distance in severely cold weather, has often been a subject of remark;
+but a circumstance occurred at Port Bowen which deserves to be noticed,
+as affording a sort of measure of this facility, or, at least, conveying
+to others some definite idea of the fact. Lieutenant Foster having
+occasion to send a man from the observatory to the opposite shore of the
+harbour, a measured distance of 6696 feet, or about one statute mile and
+two tenths, in order to fix a meridian mark, had placed a second person
+half way between, to repeat his directions; but he found, on trial, that
+this precaution was unnecessary, as he could, without difficulty, keep
+up a conversation with the man at the distant station. The thermometer
+was at this time-18 deg., the barometer 30.14 inches, and the weather
+nearly calm, and quite clear and serene.
+
+About one o'clock on the morning of the 23d February, the Aurora
+appeared over the hills in a south direction, presenting a brilliant
+mass of light. The rolling motion of the light laterally was very
+striking, as well as the increase of its intensity thus occasioned. The
+light occupied horizontally about a point of the compass, and extended
+in height scarcely a degree above the land, which seemed, however, to
+conceal from us a part of the phenomenon. It was always evident enough
+that the most attenuated light of the Aurora sensibly dimmed the stars,
+like a thin veil drawn over them. We frequently listened for any sound
+proceeding from this phenomenon, but never heard any. Our variation
+needles, which were extremely light, suspended in the most delicate
+manner, and, from the weak directive energy, susceptible of being acted
+upon by a very slight disturbing force, were never, in a single
+instance, sensibly affected by the Aurora, which could scarcely fail to
+have been observed at some time or other, had any such disturbance taken
+place, the needles being visited every hour for several months, and
+oftener when anything occurred to make it desirable.
+
+The meteors called falling stars were much more frequent during this
+winter than we ever before saw them, and particularly during the month
+of December.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+
+     Re-equipment of the Ships.--Several Journeys undertaken.--Open
+     Water in the Offing.--Commence sawing a Canal to liberate the
+     Ships.--Disruption of the Ice.--Departure from Port Bowen.
+
+
+
+The height of the land about Port Bowen deprived us longer than usual of
+the sun's presence above our horizon. Some of our gentlemen, indeed, who
+ascended a high hill for the purpose, caught a glimpse of him on the 2d
+of February; on the 15th it became visible at the observatory, but at
+the ships not till the 22d, after an absence of one hundred and
+twenty-one days. It is very long after the sun's reappearance in these
+regions, however, that the effect of his rays, as to warmth, becomes
+perceptible; week passes after week, with scarcely any rise in the
+thermometer except for an hour or two during the day; and it is at this
+period more than any other, perhaps, that the lengthened duration of a
+Polar winter's cold is most wearisome, and creates the most impatience.
+Towards the third week in March, thin flakes of snow lying upon black
+painted wood or metal, and exposed to the sun's direct rays in a
+sheltered situation, readily melted. In the second week of April any
+very light covering of sand or ashes upon the snow close to the ships
+might be observed to make its way downward into holes; but a coat of
+sand laid upon the unsheltered ice, to the distance of about two thirds
+of a mile, for dissolving a canal to hasten our liberation, produced no
+such sensible effect till the beginning of May. Even then the
+dissolution was very trifling till about the first week in June, when
+pools of water began to make their appearance, and not long after this a
+small boat would have floated down it. On shore the effect is, in
+general, still more tardy, though some deception is there occasioned by
+the dissolution of the snow next the ground, while its upper surface is
+to all appearance undergoing little or no change. Thus a greater
+alteration is sometimes produced in the aspect of the land by a single
+warm day in an advanced part of the season, than in many weeks
+preceding, in consequence of the last crust of snow being dissolved,
+leaving the ground at length entirely bare. We could now perceive the
+snow beginning to leave the stones from day to day, as early as the last
+week in April. Towards the end of May a great deal of snow was dissolved
+daily; but, owing to the porous nature of the ground, which absorbed it
+as fast as it was formed, it was not easy to procure water for drinking
+on shore, even as late as the 10th of June. In the ravines, however, it
+could be heard trickling under stones before that time; and about the
+18th, many considerable streams were formed, and constantly running both
+night and day. After this the thawing proceeded at an inconceivably
+rapid rate, the whole surface of the floes being covered with large
+pools of water rapidly increasing in size and depth.
+
+The animals seen at Port Bowen may now be briefly noticed. The principal
+of these seen during the winter were bears, of which we killed twelve
+from October to June, being more than during all the other voyages
+taken together; and several others were seen. One of these animals was
+near proving fatal to a seaman of the Fury, who, having straggled from
+his companions, when at the top of a high hill saw a large bear coming
+towards him. Being unarmed, he prudently made off, taking off his boots
+to enable him to run the faster, but not so prudently precipitated
+himself over an almost perpendicular cliff, down which he was said to
+have rolled or fallen several hundred feet; here he was met by some of
+the people in so lacerated a condition as to be in a very dangerous
+state for some time after.
+
+A she-bear, killed in the open water on our first arrival at Port Bowen,
+afforded a striking instance of maternal affection in her anxiety to
+save her two cubs. She might herself easily have escaped the boat, but
+would not forsake her young, which she was actually "towing" off, by
+allowing them to rest on her back, when the boat came near them. A
+second similar instance occurred in the spring, when two cubs having got
+down into a large crack in the ice, their mother placed herself before
+them, so as to secure them from the attacks of our people, which she
+might easily have avoided herself.
+
+One or two foxes (_Canis Lagopus_) were killed, and four caught in traps
+during the winter, weighing from four pounds and three quarters to three
+pounds and three quarters. The colour of one of these animals, which
+lived for some time on board the Fury, and became tolerably tame, was
+nearly pure white till the month of May, when he shed his winter coat,
+and became of a dirty chocolate colour, with two or three light brown
+spots. Only three hares (_Lepus Variabilis_) were killed from October
+to June, weighing from six to eight pounds and three quarters. Their fur
+was extremely thick, soft, and of the most beautiful whiteness
+imaginable. We saw no deer near Port Bowen at any season, neither were
+we visited by their enemies the wolves. A single ermine and a few mice
+(_Mus Hudsonius_) complete, I believe, our scanty list of quadrupeds at
+this desolate and unproductive place.
+
+Towards the end of June, the dovekies (_Colymbus Grylle_) were extremely
+numerous in the cracks of the ice at the entrance of Port Bowen; and as
+these were the only fresh supply of any consequence that we were able to
+procure at this unproductive place, we were glad to permit the men to go
+out occasionally with guns, after the ships were ready for sea, to
+obtain for their messes this wholesome change of diet; while such
+excursions also contributed essentially to their general health and
+cheerfulness. Many hundreds of these birds were thus obtained in the
+course of a few days. On the evening of the 6th of July, however, I was
+greatly shocked at being informed by Captain Hoppner that John
+Cotterell,[007] a seaman of the Fury, had been found drowned in one of
+the cracks of the ice by two other men belonging to the same party, who
+had been with him but a few minutes before. We could never ascertain
+precisely in what manner this accident happened, but it was supposed
+that he must have overreached himself in stooping for a bird that he
+had killed. His remains were committed to the earth on Sunday the 10th,
+with every solemnity which the occasion demanded, and our situation
+would allow; and a tomb of stones, with a suitable inscription, was
+afterward erected over the grave.
+
+In order to obtain oil for another winter's consumption, before the
+ships could be released from the ice, and our travelling parties having
+seen a number of black whales in the open water to the northward, two
+boats from each ship were, with considerable labour, transported four
+miles along shore in that direction, to be in readiness for killing a
+whale and boiling the oil on the beach, whenever the open water should
+approach sufficiently near. Notwithstanding these preparations, however,
+it was vexatious to find that on the 9th of July the water was still
+three miles distant from the boats, and at least seven from Port Bowen.
+On the 12th, the ice in our neighbourhood began to detach itself, and
+the boats, under the command of Lieutenants Sherer and Ross, being
+launched on the following day, succeeded almost immediately in killing a
+small whale of "five feet bone," exactly answering our purpose. Almost
+at the same time, and, as it turned out, very opportunely, the ice at
+the mouth of our harbour detached itself at an old crack, and drifted
+off, leaving only about one mile and a quarter between us and the sea.
+Half of this distance being occupied by the gravelled canal, which was
+dissolved quite through the ice in many parts, and had become very thin
+in all, every officer and man in both ships were set to work without
+delay to commence a fresh canal from the open water to communicate with
+the other. This work proved heavier than we expected, the ice being
+generally from five to eight feet, and in many places from ten to eleven
+in thickness. It was continued, however, with the greatest cheerfulness
+and alacrity from seven in the morning till seven in the evening daily,
+the dinner being prepared on the ice, and eaten under the lee of a
+studding sail erected as a tent.
+
+On the afternoon of the 19th, a very welcome stop was put to our
+operations by the separation of the floe entirely across the harbour,
+and about one third from the ships to where we were at work. All hands
+being instantly recalled by signal, were, on their return, set to work
+to get the ships into the gravelled canal, and to saw away what still
+remained in it to prevent our warping to sea. This work, with only half
+an hour's intermission for the men's supper, was continued till half
+past six the following morning, when we succeeded in getting clear. The
+weather being calm, two hours were occupied in towing the ships to sea,
+and thus the officers and men were employed at a very laborious work for
+twenty-six hours, during which time there were, on one occasion, fifteen
+of them overboard at once; and, indeed, several individuals met with the
+same accident three times. It was impossible, however, to regret the
+necessity of these comparatively trifling exertions, especially as it
+was now evident that to saw our way out without any canal would have
+required at least a fortnight of heavy and fatiguing labour.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+
+     Sail over towards the Western Coast of Prince Regent's
+     Inlet.--Stopped by the Ice.--Reach the Shore about Cape
+     Seppings.--Favourable Progress along the Land.--Fresh and repeated
+     Obstructions from Ice.--Both Ships driven on Shore.--Fury seriously
+     damaged.--Unsuccessful Search for a Harbour for heaving her down to
+     repair.
+
+
+
+_July_ 20.--On standing out to sea, we sailed, with a light southerly
+wind, towards the western shore of Prince Regent's Inlet, which it was
+my first wish to gain, on account of the evident advantage to be derived
+from coasting the southern part of that portion of land called in the
+chart "North Somerset," as far as it might lead to the westward; which,
+from our former knowledge, we had reason to suppose it would do as far
+at least as the longitude of 95 deg., in the parallel of about 72-3/4 deg.
+After sailing about eight miles, we were stopped by a body of close ice
+lying between us and a space of open water beyond. We were shortly after
+enveloped in one of the thick fogs which had, for several weeks past,
+been observed almost daily hanging over some part of the sea in the
+offing, though we had scarcely experienced any in Port Bowen until the
+water became open at the mouth of the harbour.
+
+On the clearing up of the fog on the 21st, we could perceive no opening
+of the ice leading towards the western land, nor any appearance of the
+smallest channel to the southward along the eastern shore. I was
+determined, therefore, to try at once a little farther to the
+northward, the present state of the ice appearing completely to accord
+with that observed in 1819, its breadth increasing as we advanced from
+Prince Leopold's Islands to the southward.
+
+Light winds detained us very much, but, being at length favoured by a
+breeze, we carried all sail to the northwest, the ice very gradually
+leading us towards the Leopold Isles. Having arrived off the
+northernmost on the morning of the 22nd, it was vexatious, however
+curious, to observe the exact coincidence of the present position of the
+ice with that which it occupied a little later in the year 1819. The
+whole body of it seemed to cling to the western shore, as if held there
+by some strong attraction, forbidding, for the present, any access to
+it. After running all night, with light and variable winds, through
+loose and scattered ice, we suddenly found ourselves, on the clearing up
+of a thick fog through which we had been sailing on the morning of the
+24th, within one third of a mile of Cape Seppings, the land just
+appearing above the fog in time to save us from danger, the soundings
+being thirty-eight fathoms, on a rocky bottom. The Fury being apprized
+by guns of our situation, both ships were hauled off the land, and the
+fog soon after dispersing, we had the satisfaction to perceive that the
+late gale had blown the ice off the land, leaving us a fine navigable
+channel from one to two miles wide, as far as we could see from the
+masthead along the shore. We were able to avail ourselves of this but
+slowly, however, in consequence of a light southerly breeze still
+blowing against us.
+
+The land here, when closely viewed, assumes a very striking, and
+magnificent character; the strata of limestone, which are numerous and
+quite horizontally disposed, being much more regular than on the eastern
+shore of Prince Regent's Inlet, and retaining nearly their whole
+perpendicular height of six or seven hundred feet close to the sea. I
+may here remark, that the whole of Barrow's Strait, as far as we could
+see to the N.N.E. of the islands, was entirely free from ice; and, from
+whatever circumstance it may proceed, I do not think that this part of
+the Polar Sea is at any season very much encumbered with it.
+
+It was the general feeling at this period among us, that the voyage had
+but now commenced. The labours of a bad summer, and the tedium of a long
+winter, were forgotten in a moment when we found ourselves upon ground
+not hitherto explored, and with every apparent prospect before us of
+making as rapid a progress as the nature of this navigation will permit,
+towards the final accomplishment of our object.
+
+A breeze enabling us again to make some progress, and an open channel
+still favouring us, of nearly the same breadth as before, we passed,
+during the night of the 25th, a second bay, about the same size as the
+other, and also appearing open to the sea; it lies in latitude (by
+account from the preceding and following noon) 73 deg. 19' 30", and its
+width is one mile and a half. We now perceived that the ice closed
+completely in with the land a short distance beyond us; and, having made
+all the way we could, were obliged to stand off and on during the day in
+a channel not three quarters of a mile wide.
+
+A light southerly breeze on the morning of the 28th gradually cleared
+the shore, and a fresh wind from the N.W. then immediately succeeded. We
+instantly took advantage of this circumstance, and, casting off at six
+A.M., ran eight or nine miles without obstruction, when we were stopped
+by the ice, which, in a closely packed and impenetrable body, stretched
+close into the shore as far as the eye could reach from the crow's nest.
+Being anxious to gain every foot of distance that we could, and
+perceiving some grounded ice which appeared favourable for making fast
+to, just at a point where the clear water terminated, the ships were run
+to the utmost extent of it, and a boat prepared from each to examine the
+water at the intended anchoring place. Just as I was about to leave the
+Hecla for that purpose, the ice was observed, to be in rapid motion
+towards the shore. The Fury was immediately hauled in by some grounded
+masses, and placed to the best advantage; but the Hecla, being more
+advanced, was immediately beset in spite of every exertion, and, after
+breaking two of the largest ice-anchors in endeavouring to heave in to
+the shore, was obliged to drift with the ice, several masses of which
+had fortunately interposed themselves between us and the land. The ice
+slackening around us a little in the evening, we were enabled, with
+considerable labour, to get to some grounded masses, where we lay much
+exposed, as the Fury also did. In this situation, our latitude being 72
+deg. 51' 51", we saw a comparatively low point of land three or four
+leagues to the southward, which proved to be near that which terminated
+our view of this coast in 1819.
+
+The ice opening for a mile and a half alongshore on the 30th, we shifted
+the Hecla's berth about that distance to the southward, chiefly to be
+enabled to see more distinctly round a point which before obstructed our
+view, though our situation as regarded the security of the ship was much
+altered for the worse. In the afternoon it blew a hard gale, with
+constant rain, from the northward, the clouds indicating an easterly
+wind in other parts. This wind, which was always the troublesome one to
+us, soon brought the ice closer and closer, till it pressed with very
+considerable violence on both ships, though the most upon the Fury,
+which lay in a very exposed situation. Early on the morning of the 31st,
+as soon as a communication could be effected, Captain Hoppner sent to
+inform me that the Fury had been forced on the ground, where she still
+lay; but that she would probably be hove off without much difficulty at
+high water, provided the external ice did not prevent it. A large party
+of hands from the Hecla being sent round to the Fury towards high water,
+she came off the ground with very little strain, so that, upon the
+whole, considering the situation in which the ships were lying, we
+thought ourselves fortunate in having incurred no very serious injury. A
+shift of wind to the southward in the afternoon at length began
+gradually to slacken it, but it was not till six A.M. on the 1st of
+August that there appeared a prospect of making any progress. The signal
+to that effect was immediately made; but, while the sails were setting,
+the ice, which had at first been three quarters of a mile distant from
+us, was observed to be closing the shore The ships were cast with all
+expedition, in hopes of gaining the broader channel before the ice had
+time to shut us up. So rapid, however, was the latter in this its sudden
+movement, that we had but just got the ships' heads the right way when
+the ice came boldly in upon us, being doubtless set in motion by a very
+sudden freshening of the wind almost to a gale in the course of a few
+minutes. The ships were now almost instantly beset, and in such a manner
+as to be literally helpless and unmanageable.
+
+The sails were, however, kept set; and, as the body of ice was setting
+to the southward withal, we went with it some little distance in that
+direction. The Hecla, after thus driving, and now and then forcing her
+way through the ice, in all about three quarters of a mile, quite close
+to the shore, at length struck the ground forcibly several times in the
+space of a hundred yards, and being then brought up by it, remained
+immoveable, the depth of water under her keel abaft being sixteen feet,
+or about a foot less than she drew. The Fury, continuing to drive, was
+now irresistibly carried past us, and we escaped, only by a few feet,
+the damage invariably occasioned by ships coming in contact under such
+circumstances. She had, however, scarcely passed us a hundred yards,
+when it was evident, by the ice pressing her in, as well as along the
+shore, that she must soon be stopped like the Hecla; and having gone
+about two hundred yards farther, she was observed to receive a severe
+pressure from a large floe-piece forcing her directly against a grounded
+mass of ice upon the beach. After setting to the southward for an hour
+or two longer, the ice became stationary, no open water being anywhere
+visible from the masthead, and the pressure on the ships remaining
+undiminished during the day. Just as I had ascertained the utter
+impossibility of moving the Hecla a single foot, and that she must lie
+aground fore and aft as soon as the tide fell, I received a note from
+Captain Hoppner, informing me that the Fury had been so severely
+"nipped" and strained as to leak a good deal, apparently about four
+inches an hour; that she was still heavily pressed both upon the ground
+and against the large mass of ice within her; that the rudder was at
+present very awkwardly situated; and that one boat had been much
+damaged. However, about high water, the ice very opportunely slacking,
+the Hecla was hove off with great ease, and warped to a floe in the
+offing, to which we made fast at midnight. The Fury was not long after
+us in coming off the ground, when I was in hopes of finding that any
+twist or strain by which her leaks might have been occasioned, would, in
+some measure, close when she was relieved from pressure and once more
+fairly afloat. My disappointment and mortification, therefore, may in
+some measure be imagined, at being informed by telegraph, about two A.M.
+on the 2d, that the water was gaining on two pumps, and that a part of
+the doubling had floated up. Presently after, perceiving from the
+masthead something like a small harbour nearly abreast of us, every
+effort was made to get once more towards the shore. In this the ice
+happily favoured us; and, after making sail, and one or two tacks, we
+got in with the land, when I left the ship in a boat to sound the place
+and search for shelter. The whole shore was more or less lined with
+grounded masses of ice; but, after examining the soundings within more
+than twenty of them, in the space of about a mile, I could only find two
+that would allow the ships to float at low water, and that by some care
+in placing and keeping them there. Having fixed a flag on each berg, the
+usual signal for the ships taking their stations, I rowed on board the
+Fury, and found four pumps constantly going to keep the ship free, and
+Captain Hoppner, his officers and men, almost exhausted with the
+incessant labour of the last eight-and-forty hours. The instant the
+ships were made fast, Captain Hoppner and myself set out in a boat to
+survey the shore still farther south, there being a narrow lane of water
+about a mile in that direction; for it had now become too evident that
+the Fury could proceed no farther without repairs, and that the nature
+of those repairs would in all probability involve the disagreeable, I
+may say the ruinous, necessity of heaving the ship down. After rowing
+about three quarters of a mile, we considered ourselves fortunate in
+arriving at a bolder part of the beach, where three grounded masses of
+ice, having from three to four fathoms water at low tide within them,
+were so disposed as to afford, with the assistance of art, something
+like shelter. Returning to the ships, we were setting the sails in order
+to run to the appointed place, when the ice closed in and prevented our
+moving, and in a short time there was once more no open water to be
+seen. We were therefore under the necessity of remaining in our present
+berths, where the smallest external pressure must inevitably force us
+ashore, neither ship having more than two feet of water to spare. One
+watch of the Hecla's crew were sent round to assist at the Fury's
+pumps, which required one third of her ship's company to be constantly
+employed at them.
+
+The more leisure we obtained to consider the state of the Fury, the more
+apparent became the absolute, however unfortunate, necessity of heaving
+her down. Four pumps were required to be at work without intermission to
+keep her free, and this in perfectly smooth water, showing that she was,
+in fact, so materially injured as to be very far from seaworthy. One
+third of her working men were constantly employed, as before remarked,
+in this laborious operation, and some of their hands had become so sore
+from the constant friction of the ropes, that they could hardly handle
+them any longer without the use of mittens, assisted by the unlaying of
+the ropes to make them soft. As, therefore, not a moment could be lost,
+we took advantage of a small lane of water, deep enough for boats, which
+kept open within the grounded masses along the shore, to convey to the
+Hecla some of the Fury's dry provisions, and to land a quantity of heavy
+iron work, and other stores not perishable; for the moment this measure
+was determined on, I was anxious, almost at any risk, to commence the
+lightening of the ship as far as our present insecurity and our distance
+from the shore would permit.
+
+At two A.M. on the 5th, the ice began to slacken near the ships, and, as
+soon as a boat could be rowed alongshore to the southward, I set out,
+accompanied by a second from the Fury, for the purpose of examining the
+state of our intended harbour since the recent pressure, and to
+endeavour to prepare for the reception of the ships by clearing out the
+loose ice. The Fury was detained some time by a quantity of loose ice,
+which had wedged itself in in such a manner as to leave her no room to
+move outward; but she arrived about seven o'clock, when both ships were
+made fast in the best berths we could find, but they were excluded from
+their intended place by the quantity of ice which had fixed itself
+there. Within twenty minutes after our arrival, the whole body of ice
+again came in, entirely closing up the shore, so that our moving proved
+most opportune.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+
+     Formation of a Basin for heaving the Fury down.--Landing of the
+     Fury's Stores, and other Preparations.--The Ships secured within
+     the Basin.--Impediments from the Pressure of the Ice.--Fury hove
+     down.--Securities of the Basin destroyed by a Gale of
+     Wind.--Preparations to tow the Fury out.--Hecla Re-equipped, and
+     obliged to put to Sea.--Fury again driven on Shore.--Rejoin the
+     Fury; and find it necessary finally to abandon her.
+
+
+
+As there was now no longer room for floating the ice out of the proposed
+basin, all hands were immediately employed in preparing the intended
+securities against the incursions of the ice. These consisted of anchors
+carried to the beach, having bower-cables attached to them, passing
+quite round the grounded masses, and thus enclosing a small space of
+just sufficient size to admit both ships. The cables we proposed
+floating by means of the two hand-masts and some empty casks lashed to
+them as buoys, with the intention of thus making them receive the
+pressure of the ice a foot or two below the surface of the water. By
+uncommon exertions on the part of the officers and men, this laborious
+work was completed before night as far as was practicable until the
+loose ice should set out; and all the tents were set up on the beach for
+the reception of the Fury's stores.
+
+The ice remaining quite close on the 6th, every individual in both
+ships, with the exception of those at the pumps, was employed in landing
+provisions from the Fury, together with the spars, boats, and everything
+from off her upper deck. On the following day, the ice remaining as
+before, the work was continued without intermission, and a great
+quantity of things landed. The armorer was also set to work on the beach
+in forging bolts for the martingales of the outriggers. In short, every
+living creature among us was somehow or other employed, not even
+excepting our dogs, which were set to drag up the stores on the beach;
+so that our little dock-yard soon exhibited the most animated scene
+imaginable. The Fury was thus so much lightened in the course of the
+day, that two pumps were now nearly sufficient to keep her free, and
+this number continued requisite until she was hove down.
+
+At night, just as the people were going to rest, the ice began to move
+to the southward, and soon after came in towards the shore, pressing the
+Fury over on her side to so alarming a degree, as to warn us that it
+would not be safe to lighten her much more in her present insecure
+situation. One of our bergs also shifted its position by this pressure,
+so as to weaken our confidence in the pier-heads of our intended basin;
+and a long "tongue" of one of them forcing itself under the Hecla's
+forefoot, while the drifting ice was also pressing her forcibly from
+astern, she once more sewed three or four feet forward at low water, and
+continued to do so, notwithstanding repeated endeavours to haul her off,
+for four successive tides, the ice remaining so close and so much
+doubled under the ship, as to render it impossible to move her a single
+inch. Notwithstanding the state of the ice, however, we did not remain
+idle on the 8th, all hands being employed in unrigging the Fury, and
+landing all her spars, sails, booms, boats, and other top weight.
+
+The ice still continuing very close on the 9th, all hands were employed
+in attempting, by saws and axes, to clear the Hecla, which still
+grounded on the tongue of ice every tide. After four hours' labour, they
+succeeded in making four or five feet of room astern, when the ship
+suddenly slid down off the tongue with considerable force, and became
+once more afloat. As it very opportunely happened, the external ice
+slackened to the distance of about a hundred yards outside of us on the
+morning of the 10th, enabling us, by a most tedious and laborious
+operation, to clear the ice out of our basin piece by piece. Our next
+business was to tighten the cables sufficiently by means of purchases,
+and to finish the floating of them in the manner and for the purpose
+before described. After this had been completed, the ships had only a
+few feet in length, and nothing in breadth to spare, but we had now
+great hopes of going on with our work with increased confidence and
+security. The Fury, which was placed inside, had something less than
+eighteen feet at low water; the Hecla lay in four fathoms, the bottom
+being strewed with large and small fragments of limestone.
+
+While thus employed in securing the ships, the smoothness of the water
+enabled us to see, in some degree, the nature of the Fury's damage; and
+it may be conceived how much pain it occasioned us plainly to discover
+that both the sternpost and forefoot were broken and turned up on one
+side with the pressure. We also could perceive, as far as we were able
+to see along the main keel, that it was much torn, and we had therefore
+much reason to conclude that the damage would altogether prove very
+serious. We also discovered that several feet of the Hecla's false keel
+were torn away abreast of the forechains, in consequence of her
+grounding forward so frequently.
+
+Being favoured with fine weather, we continued our work very quickly, so
+that on the 12th every cask was landed, and also the powder; and the
+spare sails and clothing put on board the Hecla. The coals and preserved
+meats were the principal things now remaining on board the Fury, and
+these we continued landing by every method we could devise as the most
+expeditious.
+
+Early on the morning of the 14th, the ice slackening a little in our
+neighbourhood, we took advantage of it, though the people were much
+fagged, to tighten the cables, which had stretched and yielded
+considerably by the late pressure. It was well that we did so; for in
+the course of this day we were several times interrupted in our work by
+the ice coming with a tremendous strain on the north cables, the wind
+blowing strong from the N.N.W., and the whole "pack" outside of us
+setting rapidly to the southward. Indeed, notwithstanding the recent
+tightening and readjustment of the cables, the bight was pressed in so
+much as to force the Fury against the berg astern of her twice in the
+course of the day.
+
+From this trial of the efficacy of our means of security, it was plain
+that the Fury could not possibly be hove down under circumstances of
+such frequent and imminent risk: I therefore directed a fourth anchor,
+with two additional cables, to be carried out, with the hope of breaking
+some of the force of the ice by its offering a more oblique resistance
+than the other, and thus, by degrees, turning the direction of the
+pressure from the ships. We had scarcely completed this new defence,
+when the largest floe we had seen since leaving Port Bowen came sweeping
+along the shore, having a motion to the southward of not less than a
+mile and a half an hour; and a projecting point of it, just grazing our
+outer berg, threatened to overturn it, and would certainly have
+dislodged it from its situation but for the cable recently attached to
+it.
+
+The Fury being completely cleared at an early hour on the 16th, we were
+all busily employed in "winding" the ship, and in preparing the
+outriggers, shores, purchases, and additional rigging. Though we
+purposely selected the time of high water for turning the ship round, we
+had scarcely a foot of space to spare for doing it; and indeed, as it
+was, her forefoot touched the ground, and loosened the broken part of
+the wood so much as to enable us to pull it up with ropes, when we found
+the fragments to consist of the whole of the "gripe" and most of the
+"cutwater." In the evening we received the Fury's crew on board the
+Hecla, every arrangement and regulation having been previously made for
+their personal comfort, and for the preservation of cleanliness,
+ventilation, and dry warmth throughout the ship. The officers of the
+Fury, by their own choice, pitched a tent on shore for messing and
+sleeping in, as our accommodation for two sets of officers was
+necessarily confined. Every preparation being made, at three A.M. on the
+18th we began to heave her down on the larboard side; but when the
+purchases were nearly ablock, we found that the strops under the Hecla's
+bottom, as well as some of the Fury's shore-fasts, had stretched or
+yielded so much that they could not bring the keel out of water within
+three or four feet. We immediately eased her up again, and readjusted
+everything as requisite, hauling her farther in-shore than before by
+keeping a considerable heel upon her, so as to make less depth of water
+necessary; and we were then in the act of once more heaving her down,
+when a snowstorm came on and blew with such violence off the land as to
+raise a considerable sea. The ships had now so much motion as to strain
+the gear very much, and even to make the lower masts of the Fury bend in
+spite of the shores; we were, therefore, most unwillingly compelled to
+desist until the sea should go down, keeping everything ready to
+recommence the instant we could possibly do so with safety. The officers
+and men were now literally so harassed and fatigued as to be scarcely
+capable of farther exertion without some rest; and on this and one or
+two other occasions, I noticed more than a single instance of stupor,
+amounting to a certain degree of failure in intellect, rendering the
+individual so affected quite unable at first to comprehend the meaning
+of an order, though still as willing as ever to obey it. It was
+therefore, perhaps, a fortunate necessity that produced the intermission
+of labour which the strength of every individual seemed to require.
+
+The gale rather increasing than otherwise during the whole day and night
+of the 18th, had, on the following morning, when the wind and sea still
+continued unabated, so destroyed the bergs on which our sole dependance
+was placed, that they no longer remained aground at low water; the
+cables had again become slack about them, and the basin we had taken so
+much pains in forming had now lost all its defences, at least during a
+portion of every tide. After a night of most anxious consideration and
+consultation with Captain Hoppner, who was now my messmate in the Hecla,
+it appeared but too plain that, should the ice again come in, neither
+ship could any longer be secured from driving on shore. It was therefore
+determined instantly to prepare the Hecla for sea, making her thoroughly
+effective in every respect; so that we might at least push _her_ out
+into comparative safety among the ice when it closed again, taking every
+person on board her, securing the Fury in the best manner we could, and
+returning to her the instant we were able to do so, to endeavour to get
+her out, and to carry her to some place of security for heaving down.
+If, after the Hecla was ready, time should still be allowed us, it was
+proposed immediately to put into the Fury all that was requisite, or, at
+least, as much as she could safely carry, and, towing her out into the
+ice, to try the effect of "foddering" the leaks by sails under those
+parts of her keel which we knew to be damaged, until some more effectual
+means could be resorted to.
+
+Having communicated to the assembled officers and ships' companies my
+views and intentions, we commenced our work; and such was the hearty
+good-will and indefatigable energy with which it was carried on, that by
+midnight the whole was accomplished.
+
+On the 20th, therefore, the reloading of the Fury commenced with
+recruited strength and spirits, such articles being in the first place
+selected for putting on board as were essentially requisite for her
+reequipment; for it was my full determination, could we succeed in
+completing this, not to wait even for rigging a topmast, or getting a
+lower yard up, in the event of the ice coming in, but to tow her out
+among the ice, and there put everything sufficiently to rights for
+carrying her to some place of security. A few hands were also spared,
+consisting chiefly of two or three convalescents, and some of the
+officers, to thrum a sail for putting under the Fury's keel; for we were
+very anxious to relieve the men at the pumps, which constantly required
+the labour of eight to twelve hands to keep her free. By a long and hard
+day's labour, the people not going to rest till two o'clock on the
+morning of the 21st, we got about fifty tons' weight of coals and
+provisions on board the Fury, which, in case of necessity, we considered
+sufficient to give her stability. Having hauled the ships out a little
+from the shore, and prepared the Hecla for casting by a spring at a
+moment's notice, all the people except those at the pumps were sent to
+rest, which, however, they had not enjoyed for two hours, when, at four
+A.M. on the 21st, another heavy mass coming violently in contact with
+the bergs and cables, threatened to sweep away every remaining security.
+More hawsers were run out, however, and enabled us still to hold on;
+and, after six hours of disturbed rest, all hands were again set to work
+to get the Fury's anchors, cables, rudder, and spars on board, these
+being absolutely necessary for her equipment, should we be able to get
+her out. At two P.M. the crews were called on board to dinner, which
+they had not finished when several not very large masses of ice drove
+along the shore near us at a quick rate, and two or three successively
+coming in violent contact either with the Hecla or the bergs to which
+she was attached, convinced me that very little additional pressure
+would tear everything away, and drive both ships on shore. I saw that
+the moment had arrived when the Hecla could no longer be kept in her
+present situation with the smallest chance of safety, and therefore
+immediately got under sail, despatching Captain Hoppner with every
+individual, except a few for working the ship, to continue getting the
+things on board the Fury, while the Hecla stood off and on. Captain
+Hoppner had scarcely been an hour on board the Fury, and was busily
+engaged in getting the anchors and cables on board, when we observed
+some large pieces of not very heavy ice closing in with the land near
+her; and at twenty minutes past four P.M., being an hour and five
+minutes after the Hecla had cast off, I was informed by signal that the
+Fury was on shore. As the navigating of the Hecla, with only ten men on
+board, required constant attention and care, I could not at this time,
+with propriety, leave the ship to go on board the Fury. I therefore
+directed Captain Hoppner by telegraph, "if he thought nothing could be
+done at present, to return on board with all hands until the wind
+changed;" for this alone, as far as I could see the state of the Fury,
+seemed to offer the smallest chance of clearing the shore, so as to
+enable us to proceed with our work, or to attempt hauling the ship off
+the ground. About seven P.M. Captain Hoppner returned to the Hecla,
+accompanied by all hands, except an officer with a party at the pumps,
+reporting to me, that the Fury had been forced aground by the ice
+pressing on the masses lying near her, and bringing home, if not
+breaking, the seaward anchor, so that the ship was soon found to have
+sewed from two to three feet fore and aft.
+
+Finding, soon after Captain Hoppner's return, that the current swept the
+Hecla a long way to the southward while hoisting up the boats, and that
+more ice was drifting in towards the shore, I was under the painful
+necessity of recalling the party at the pumps, rather than incur the
+risk, now an inevitable one, of parting company with them altogether.
+Accordingly, Mr. Bird, with the last of the people, came on board at
+eight o'clock in the evening, having left eighteen inches water in the
+well, and four pumps being requisite to keep her free. In three hours
+after Mr. Bird's return, more than half a mile of closely packed ice
+intervened between the Fury and the open water in which we were
+beating, and before the morning this barrier had increased to four or
+five miles in breadth.
+
+We carried a press of canvass all night, with a fresh breeze from the
+north, to enable us to keep abreast of the Fury, which, on account of
+the strong southerly current, we could only do by beating at some
+distance from the land. The breadth of the ice in-shore continued
+increasing during the day, but we could see no end to the water in which
+we were beating, either to the southward or eastward. It fell quite calm
+in the evening, when the breadth of the ice in-shore had increased to
+six or seven miles. We did not, during the day, perceive any current
+setting to the southward, but in the course of the night we were drifted
+four or five leagues to the southwestward.
+
+A southerly breeze enabling us to regain our northing, we ran along the
+margin of the ice, but were led so much to the eastward by it, that we
+could approach the ship no nearer than before during the whole day. She
+appeared to us at this distance to have a much greater heel than when
+the people left her, which made us still more anxious to get near her.
+The latitude at noon was 72 deg. 34' 57", making our distance from the Fury
+twelve miles, which, by the morning of the 25th, had increased to at
+least five leagues, the ice continuing to "pack" between us and the
+shore. The wind, however, now gradually drew round to the westward,
+giving us hopes of a change, and we continued to ply about the margin of
+the ice, in constant readiness for taking advantage of any opening that
+might occur. It favoured us so much by streaming off in the course of
+the day, that by seven P.M. we had nearly reached a channel of clear
+water, which kept open for seven or eight miles from the land. Being
+impatient to obtain a sight of the Fury, and the wind becoming light,
+Captain Hoppner and myself left the Hecla in two boats, and reached the
+ship at half past nine, or about three quarters of an hour before high
+water, being the most favourable time of tide for arriving to examine
+her condition.
+
+We found her heeling so much outward, that her main channels were within
+a foot of the water; and the large floe-piece, which was still alongside
+of her, seemed alone to support her below water, and to prevent her
+falling over still more considerably. The ship had been forced much
+farther up the beach than before, and she had now in her bilge above
+nine feet of water, which reached higher than the lower-deck beams. The
+first hour's inspection of the Fury's condition too plainly assured me
+that, exposed as she was, and forcibly pressed up upon an open and stony
+beach, her holds full of water, and the damage of her hull to all
+appearance and in all probability more considerable than before, without
+any adequate means of hauling her off to seaward, or securing her from
+the farther incursions of the ice, every endeavour of ours to get her
+off, or _if_ got off, to float her to any known place of safety, would
+be at once utterly hopeless in itself, and productive of extreme risk to
+our remaining ship.
+
+Mr. Pulfer, the carpenter of the Fury, considered that it would occupy
+five days to clear the ship of water; that if she were got off, all the
+pumps would not be sufficient to keep her free, in consequence of the
+additional damage she seemed to have sustained; and that, if even hove
+down, twenty days' work, with the means we possessed, would be required
+for making her sea-worthy. Captain Hoppner and the other officers were
+therefore of opinion, that an absolute necessity existed for abandoning
+the Fury. My own opinion being thus confirmed as to the utter
+hopelessness of saving her, and feeling more strongly than ever the
+responsibility which attached to me of preserving the Hecla unhurt, it
+was with extreme pain and regret that I made the signal for the Fury's
+officers and men to be sent for their clothes, most of which, had been
+put on shore with the stores.
+
+The whole of the Fury's stores were of necessity left either on board
+her or on shore, every spare corner that we could find in the Hecla
+being now absolutely required for the accommodation of our double
+complement of officers and men, whose cleanliness and health could only
+be maintained by keeping the decks as clear and well ventilated as our
+limited space would permit. The spot where the Fury was left is in
+latitude 72 deg. 42' 30"; the longitude by chronometers is 91 deg. 50'
+05"; the dip of the magnetic needle 88 deg. 19' 22"; and the variation
+129 deg. 25' westerly.
+
+When the accident first happened to the Fury, I confidently expected to
+be able to repair her damages in good time to take advantage of a large
+remaining part of the navigable season in the prosecution of the voyage;
+and while the clearing of the ship was going on with so much alacrity,
+and the repairs seemed to be within the reach of our means and
+resources, I still flattered myself with the same hope. Those
+expectations were now at an end. With a twelvemonth's provisions for
+both ship's companies, extending our resources only to the autumn of the
+following year, it would have been folly to hope for final success,
+considering the small progress we had already made, the uncertain nature
+of this navigation, and the advanced period of the present season. I was
+therefore reduced to the only remaining conclusion, that it was my duty,
+under all the circumstances of the case, to return to England in
+compliance with the plain tenour of my instructions. As soon as the
+boats were hoisted up, therefore, and the anchor stowed, the ship's head
+was put to the northeastward, with a light air off the land, in order to
+gain an offing before the ice should again set in-shore.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+
+     Some Remarks upon the Loss of the Fury--And on the Natural History,
+     &c., of the Coast of North Somerset.--Arrive at Neill's
+     Harbour.--Death of John Page.--Leave Neill's Harbour.--Recross the
+     Ice in Baffin's Bay.--Heavy Gales.--Temperature of the
+     Sea.--Arrival in England.
+
+
+
+The accident which had now befallen the Fury, and which, when its fatal
+result was finally ascertained, at once put an end to every prospect of
+success in the main object of this voyage, is not an event which will
+excite surprise in the minds of those who are either personally
+acquainted with the true nature of this precarious navigation, or have
+had patience to follow me through the tedious and monotonous detail of
+our operations during seven successive summers. To any persons thus
+qualified to judge, it will be plain that an occurrence of this nature
+was at all times rather to be expected than otherwise, and that the only
+real cause for wonder has been our long exemption from such a
+catastrophe.
+
+The summer of 1825 was, beyond all doubt, the warmest and most
+favourable we had experienced since that of 1818. Not more than two or
+three days occurred, during the months of July and August, in which that
+heavy fall of snow took place which so commonly converts the aspect of
+nature in these regions, in a single hour, from the cheerfulness of
+summer into the dreariness of winter. Indeed, we experienced very little
+either of snow, rain, or fog: vegetation, wherever the soil allowed any
+to spring up, was extremely luxuriant and forward; a great deal of the
+old snow, which had laid on the ground during the last season, was
+rapidly dissolving even early in August; and every appearance of nature
+exhibited a striking contrast with the last summer, while it seemed
+evidently to furnish an extraordinary compensation for its rigour and
+inclemency.
+
+We have scarcely ever visited a coast on which so little of animal life
+occurs. For days together, only one or two seals, a single seahorse, and
+now and then a flock of ducks, were seen. I have already mentioned,
+however, as an exception to this scarcity of animals, the numberless
+kittiwakes which were flying about the remarkable spout of water; and
+we were one day visited, at the place where the Fury was left, by
+hundreds of white whales, sporting about in the shoal water close to the
+beach. No black whales were ever seen on this coast. Two reindeer were
+observed by the gentlemen who extended their walks inland; but this was
+the only summer in which we did not procure a single pound of venison.
+Indeed, the whole of our supplies obtained in this way during the
+voyage, including fish, flesh, and fowl, did not exceed twenty pounds
+per man.
+
+The weather continuing nearly calm during the 26th, and the ice keeping
+at the distance of several miles from the land, gave us an opportunity
+of clearing decks, and stowing the things belonging to the Fury's crew
+more comfortably for their accommodation and convenience. I now felt
+more sensibly than ever the necessity I have elsewhere pointed out, of
+both ships employed on this kind of service being of the same size,
+equipped in the same manner, and alike efficient in every respect. The
+way in which we had been able to apply every article for assisting to
+heave the Fury down, without the smallest doubt or selection as to size
+or strength, proved an excellent practical example of the value of being
+thus able, at a moment's warning, to double the means and resources of
+either ship in case of necessity. In fact, by this arrangement, nothing
+but a harbour to secure the ships was wanted to complete the whole
+operation in as effectual a manner as in a dockyard; for not a shore, or
+outrigger, or any other precaution was omitted, that is usually attended
+to on such occasions, and all as good and effective as could anywhere
+have been desired. The advantages were now scarcely conspicuous in the
+accommodation of the officers and men, who in a short time became little
+less comfortable than in their own ship; whereas, in a smaller vessel,
+comfort, to say nothing of health, would have been quite out of the
+question.
+
+A breeze from the northward freshening up strong on the 27th, we
+stretched over to the eastern shore of Prince Regent's Inlet, and this
+with scarcely any obstruction from ice. We could, indeed, scarcely
+believe this the same sea which, but a few weeks before, had been loaded
+with one impenetrable body of closely-packed ice from shore to shore,
+and as far as the eye could discern to the southward. Having a great
+deal of heavy work to do in the restowage of the holds, which could not
+well be accomplished at sea, and also a quantity of water to fill for
+our increased complement, I determined to take advantage of our fetching
+the entrance of Neill's Harbour to put in here, in order to prepare the
+ship completely for crossing the Atlantic. I was desirous also of
+ascertaining the depth of water in this place, which was wanting to
+complete Lieutenant Sherer's survey of it. Finding the harbour an
+extremely convenient one for our purpose, we worked the ship in, and at
+four P.M. anchored in thirteen fathoms, but afterward shifted out to
+eighteen, on a bottom of soft mud. Almost at the moment of our dropping
+the anchor, John Page, seaman of the Fury, departed this life: he had
+for several months been affected with a scrofulous disorder, and had
+been gradually sinking for some time.
+
+The funeral of the deceased being performed, we immediately commenced
+landing the casks and filling water; but, notwithstanding the large
+streams which, a short time before, had been running into the harbour,
+we could hardly obtain enough for our purpose by sinking a cask with
+holes in it. This work, together with the entire restowage of all the
+holds, occupied the whole of the 29th and 30th, during which time
+Lieutenant Sherer was employed in completing the survey of the harbour,
+more especially the soundings, which the presence of the ice had before
+prevented. These arrangements had just been completed, when the
+northeasterly wind died away, and was succeeded, on the morning of the
+31st, by a light air from the northwest. As soon as we had sent to
+ascertain that the sea was clear of ice on the outside, and that the
+breeze which blew in the harbour was the true one, we weighed and stood
+out, and before noon had cleared the shoals at the entrance.
+
+Finding the wind at northwest in Prince Regent's Inlet, we were barely
+able to lie along the eastern coast. As the breeze freshened in the
+course of the day, a great deal of loose ice, in extensive streams and
+patches, came drifting down from the Leopold Islands, occasioning us
+some trouble in picking our way to the northward. By carrying a press of
+sail, however, we were enabled, towards night, to get into clearer
+water, and by four A.M. on the 1st of September, having beat to windward
+of a compact body of ice which had fixed itself on the lee shore about
+Cape York, we soon came into a perfectly open sea in Barrow's Strait,
+and were enabled to bear away to the eastward. We now considered
+ourselves fortunate in having got out of harbour when we did, as the ice
+would probably have filled up every inlet on that shore in a few hours
+after we left it.
+
+Being again favoured with a fair wind, we now stretched to the eastward,
+still in an open sea; and our curiosity was particularly excited to see
+the present situation of the ice in the middle of Baffin's Bay, and to
+compare it with that in 1824. This comparison we were enabled to make
+the more fairly, because the season at which we might expect to come to
+it coincided, within three or four days, with that in which we left it
+the preceding year. The temperature of the sea-water now increased to
+38 deg. soon after leaving the Sound, where it had generally been from
+33 deg. to 35 deg., whereas at the same season last year it rose no
+higher than 32 deg. anywhere in the neighbourhood, and remained even so
+high as that only for a very short time. This circumstance seemed to
+indicate the total absence of ice from those parts of the sea which had
+last autumn been wholly covered by it. Accordingly, on the 5th, being
+thirty miles beyond the spot in which we had before contended with
+numerous difficulties from ice, not a piece was to be seen, except one
+or two solitary bergs; and it was not till the following day, in latitude
+72 deg. 45', and longitude 64 deg. 44', or about one hundred and
+twenty-seven miles to the eastward of where we made our escape on the 9th
+of September, 1824, that we fell in with a body of ice so loose and open
+as scarcely to oblige us to alter our course for it. At three P.M. on the
+7th, being in latitude 72 deg. 30', and longitude 60 deg. 05', and
+having, in the course of eighty miles that we had run through it, only
+made a single tack, we came to the margin of the ice, and got into an
+open sea on its eastern side. In the whole course of this distance, the
+ice was so much spread that it would not, if at all closely "packed,"
+have occupied one third of the same space. There were at this time
+thirty-nine bergs in sight, and some of them certainly not less than two
+hundred feet in height.
+
+On the 8th, being in latitude 71 deg. 55', longitude 60 deg. 30', and
+close to the margin of the ice, we fell in with the Alfred, Ellison, and
+Elizabeth, whalers, of Hull, all running to the northward, even at this
+season, to look for whales.
+
+As the whaling-ships were not homeward bound, having as yet had
+indifferent success in the fishery, I did not consider it necessary to
+send despatches by them. After an hour's communication with them, and
+obtaining such information of a public nature as could not fail to be
+highly interesting to us, we made sail to the southward; while we
+observed them lying to for some time after, probably to consult
+respecting the unwelcome information with which we had furnished them as
+to the whales, not one of which, by some extraordinary chance, we had
+seen since leaving Neill's Harbour. As this circumstance was entirely
+new to us, it seems not unlikely that the whales are already beginning
+to shift their ground, in consequence of the increased attacks which
+have been made upon them of late years in that neighbourhood.
+
+On the 10th we had an easterly wind, which, gradually freshening to a
+gale, drew up the Strait from the southward, and blew strong for
+twentyfour hours from that quarter. The wind moderated on the 11th, but
+on the following day another gale came on, which for nine or ten hours
+blew in most tremendous gusts from the same quarter, and raised a heavy
+sea. We happily came near no ice during the night, or it would scarcely
+have been possible to keep the ship clear of it. It abated after
+daylight on the 13th, but continued to blow an ordinary gale for twelve
+hours longer.
+
+On the 17th, at noon, we had passed to the southward of the Arctic
+Circle, and from this latitude to that of about 58 deg., we had favourable
+winds and weather; but we remarked on this, as on several other
+occasions during this season, that a northerly breeze, contrary to
+ordinary observation, brought more moisture with it than any other. In
+the course of this run, we also observed more driftwood than we had ever
+done before, which I thought might possibly be owing to the very great
+prevalence of easterly winds this season driving it farther from the
+coast of Greenland than usual.
+
+On, the morning of the 24th, notwithstanding the continuance of a
+favourable breeze, we met, in the latitude of 58-1/2 deg., so heavy a swell
+from the northeastward as to make the ship labour violently for
+four-and-twenty hours. On the morning of the 25th we had again an
+easterly wind, which in a few hours reduced us to the close-reefed
+topsails and reefed courses. At eight P.M. it freshened to a gale, which
+brought us under the main-topsail and storm-staysails, and at seven the
+following morning it increased to a gale of such violence from N.E.b.N.
+as does not very often occur at sea in these latitudes. The gusts were
+at times so tremendous as to set the sea quite in a foam, and
+threatened to tear the sails out of the bolt-ropes. The wind gradually
+drew to the westward, with dry weather, after the gale began to abate,
+and at six A.M. we were enabled to bear up and run to the eastward with
+a strong gale at N.W.
+
+The indications of the barometer previous to and during this gale
+deserve to be noticed, because it is only about Cape Farewell that, in
+coming from the northward down Davis's Strait, this instrument begins to
+speak a language which has ever been intelligible to us _as a weather
+glass_. On the 24th, notwithstanding the change of wind from north to
+east, the mercury rose from 29.51 on that morning, to 29.72 at three
+A.M. the following day, but fell to 26.39 by nine P.M. with the strong
+but not violent breeze then blowing. After this it continued to descend
+very gradually, and had reached 28.84, which was its minimum, at three
+P.M. on the 26th, after which it continued to blow tremendously hard for
+eleven or twelve hours, the mercury uniformly, though slowly, ascending
+to 28.95 during that interval, and afterward to 29.73 as the weather
+became moderate and fine in the course of the taeaehree following days.
+
+After this gale the atmosphere seemed to be quite cleared, and we
+enjoyed a week of such remarkably fine weather as seldom occurs at this
+season of the year. We had then a succession of strong southerly winds,
+but we were enabled to continue our progress to the eastward, so as to
+make Mould Head, towards the northwest end of the Orkney Islands, at
+daylight on the 10th of October.
+
+After rounding the north end of the Orkneys on the 10th of October, we
+were, on the 12th, met by a strong southerly wind when off Peterhead. I
+therefore immediately landed (for the second time) at that place, and,
+setting off without delay for London, arrived at the Admiralty on the
+16th.
+
+The Hecla arrived at Sheerness on the 20th of October, where she was
+detained for a few days for the purpose of Captain Hoppner, his
+officers, and ship's company being put upon their trial (according to
+the customary and indispensable rule in such cases) for the loss of the
+Fury--when, it is scarcely necessary to add, they received an honourable
+acquittal. The Hecla then proceeded to Woolwich, and was paid off on the
+21st of November.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ACCOUNT
+
+OF
+
+THE ESQUIMAUX
+
+OF
+
+MELVILLE PENINSULA AND THE ADJOINING ISLANDS: MORE PARTICULARLY OF
+WINTER ISLAND AND IGLOOLIK.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ACCOUNT OF THE ESQUIMAUX.
+
+
+The number of individuals composing the tribe of Esquimaux assembled at
+Winter Island and Igloolik was two hundred and nineteen, of whom
+sixty-nine were men, seventy-seven women, and seventy-three children.
+Two or three of the men, from their appearance and infirmities, as well
+as from the age of their children, must have been near seventy; the rest
+were from twenty to about fifty. The majority of the women were
+comparatively young, or from twenty to five-and-thirty, and three or
+four only seemed to have reached sixty. Of the children, about one third
+were under four years old, and the rest from that age upward to sixteen
+or seventeen. Out of one hundred and fifty-five individuals who passed
+the winter at Igloolik, we knew of eighteen deaths and of only nine
+births.
+
+The stature of these people is much below that of Europeans in general.
+One man, who was unusually tall, measured five feet ten inches, and the
+shortest was only four feet eleven inches and a half. Of twenty
+individuals of each sex measured at Igloolik, the range was:
+
+
+Men.--From 5 ft. 10 in. to 4 ft. 11 in.
+  The average height, 5 ft. 5-1/3 in.
+Women.--From 5 ft. 3-1/2 in. to 4 ft. 8-3/4 in.
+  The average height, 5 ft. 0-1/2 in.
+
+
+The women, however, generally appear shorter than they really are, both
+from the unwieldy nature of their clothes, and from a habit, which they
+early acquire, of stooping considerably forward in order to balance the
+weight of the child they carry in their hood.
+
+In their figure they are rather well formed than otherwise. Their knees
+are indeed rather large in proportion, but their legs are straight, and
+the hands and feet, in both sexes, remarkably small. The younger
+individuals were all plump, but none of them corpulent; the women
+inclined the most to this last extreme, and their flesh was, even in the
+youngest individuals, quite loose and without firmness.
+
+Their faces are generally round and full, eyes small and black, nose
+also small and sunk far in between the cheek bones, but not much
+flattened. It is remarkable, that one man T=e-~a, his brother, his
+wife, and two daughters, had good Roman noses, and one of the latter was
+an extremely pretty young woman. Their teeth are short, thick, and
+close, generally regular, and in the young persons almost always white.
+The elderly women were still well furnished in this way, though their
+teeth were usually a good deal worn down, probably by the habit of
+chewing the sealskins for making boots.
+
+In the young of both sexes the complexion is clear and transparent, and
+the skin smooth. The colour of the latter, when divested of oil and
+dirt, is scarcely a shade darker than that of a deep brunette, so that
+the blood is plainly perceptible when it mounts into the cheeks. In the
+old folks, whose faces were much wrinkled, the skin appears of a much
+more dingy hue, the dirt being less easily, and, therefore, less
+frequently dislodged from them.
+
+By whatever peculiarities, however, they may in general be
+distinguished, they are by no means an ill-looking people; and there
+were among them three or four grown-up persons of each sex, who, when
+divested of their skin-dresses, their tattooing, and, above all, of
+their dirt, might have been considered pleasing-looking, if not
+handsome, people in any town in Europe. This remark applies more
+generally to the children also; several of whom had complexions nearly
+as fair as that of Europeans, and whose little bright black eyes gave a
+fine expression to their countenances.
+
+The hair, both of males and females, is black, glossy, and straight. The
+men usually wear it rather long, and allow it to hang about their heads
+in a loose and slovenly manner. The women pride themselves extremely on
+the length and thickness of their hair; and it was not without
+reluctance on their part, and the same on that of their husbands, that
+they were induced to dispose of any of it. Some of the women's hair was
+tolerably fine, but would not, in this respect, bear a comparison with,
+that of an Englishwoman. In both sexes it is full of vermin, which they
+are in the constant habit of picking out and eating; a man and his wife
+will sit for an hour together performing for each other that friendly
+office. The women have a comb, which, however, seems more intended for
+ornament than use, as we seldom or never observed them comb their hair.
+When a woman's husband is ill, she wears her hair loose, and cuts it off
+as a sign of mourning if he dies; a custom agreeing with that of the
+Greenlanders. The men wear the hair on the upper lip and chin from an
+inch to an inch and a half in length, and some were distinguished by a
+little tuft between the chin and lower lip.
+
+In winter every individual, when in the open air, wears two jackets, of
+which the outer one (_C=app~e t=egg~a_) has the hair outside,
+and the inner one (_At-t=e=ega_) next the body. Immediately on
+entering the hut the men take off their outer jacket, beat the snow from
+it, and lay it by. The upper garment of the females, besides being cut
+according to a regular and uniform pattern, and sewed with exceeding
+neatness, which is the case with all the dresses of these people, has
+also the flaps ornamented in a very becoming manner by a neat border of
+deerskin, so arranged as to display alternate breadths of white and dark
+fur. This is, moreover, usually beautified by a handsome fringe,
+consisting of innumerable long narrow threads of leather hanging down
+from it. This ornament is not uncommon also in the outer jackets of the
+men. When seal-hunting, they fasten up the tails of their jackets with a
+button behind.
+
+Their breeches, of which in winter they also wear two pairs, and
+similarly disposed as to the fur, reach below the knee, and fasten with
+a string drawn tight round the waist. Though these have little or no
+waistband, and do not come very high, the depth of the jackets, which
+considerably overlap them, serves very effectually to complete the
+covering of the body.
+
+Their legs and feet are so well clothed, that no degree of cold can well
+affect them. When a man goes on a sealing excursion, he first puts on a
+pair of deerskin boots (_All~ekt=eeg~a_) with the hair inside, and
+reaching to the knee, where they tie. Over these come a pair of shoes of
+the same material; next a pair of dressed sealskin boots, perfectly
+water-tight; and over all a corresponding pair of shoes, tying round the
+instep. These last are made just like the moccasin of a North American
+Indian, being neatly crimped at the toes, and having several serpentine
+pieces of hide sewn across the sole to prevent wearing. The water-tight
+boots and shoes are made of the skin of the small seal (_neitiek_),
+except the soles, which consist of the skin of the large seal (_oguk~e_);
+this last is also used for their fishing-lines. When the men are not
+prepared to encounter wet, they wear an outer boot of deerskin, with the
+hair outside.
+
+The inner boot of the women, unlike that of the men, is loose round the
+leg, coming as high as the knee-joint behind, and in front carried up,
+by a long pointed flap, nearly to the waist, and there fastened to the
+breeches. The upper boot, with the hair as usual outside, corresponds
+with the other in shape, except that it is much more full, especially on
+the outer side, where it bulges out so preposterously as to give the
+women the most awkward, bow-legged appearance imaginable. This
+superfluity of boot has probably originated in the custom, still common
+among the native women of Labrador, of carrying their children in them.
+We were told that these women sometimes put their children there to
+sleep; but the custom must be rare among them, as we never saw it
+practised. These boots, however, form their principal pockets, and
+pretty capacious ones they are. Here, also, as in jackets, considerable
+taste is displayed in the selection of different parts of the deerskin,
+alternate strips of dark and white being placed up and down the sides
+and front by way of ornament. The women also wear a moccasin
+(_Itteeg~eg~a_) over all in the winter time.
+
+To judge by the eagerness with which the women received our beads,
+especially small white ones, as well as any other article of that kind,
+we might suppose them very fond of personal ornament. Yet of all that
+they obtained from us in this way at Winter Island, scarcely anything
+ever made its appearance again during our stay there, except a ring or
+two on the finger, and some bracelets of beads round the wrist; the
+latter of these was probably considered as a charm of some kind or
+other. We found among them, at the time of our first intercourse, a
+number of black and white beads, disposed alternately on a string of
+sinew, and worn in this manner. They would also sometimes hang a small
+bunch of these, or a button or two, in front of their jackets and hair;
+and many of them, in the course of the second winter, covered the whole
+front of their jackets with the beads they received from us.
+
+Among their personal ornaments must be reckoned that mode of marking the
+body called tattooing, which, of the customs not essential to the
+comfort or happiness of mankind, is perhaps the most extensively
+practised throughout the world. Among these people it seems to be an
+ornament of indispensable importance to the women, not one of them being
+without it. The operation is performed about the age of ten, or
+sometimes earlier, and has nothing to do with marriage, except that,
+being considered in the light of a personal charm, it may serve to
+recommend them as wives. The parts of the body thus marked are their
+faces, arms, hands, thighs, and in some few women the breasts, but never
+the feet, as in Greenland. The operation, which, by way of curiosity,
+most of our gentlemen had practised on their arms, is very expeditiously
+managed by passing a needle and thread, the latter covered with
+lampblack and oil, under the epidermis, according to a pattern
+previously marked out upon the skin. Several stitches being thus taken
+at once, the thumb is pressed upon the part while the thread is drawn
+through, by which means the colouring matter is retained, and a
+permanent dye of a blue tinge imparted to the skin. A woman expert at
+this business will perform it very quickly and with great regularity,
+but seldom without drawing blood in many places, and occasioning some
+inflammation. Where so large a portion of the surface of the body is to
+be covered, it must become a painful as well as tedious process,
+especially as, for want of needles, they often use a strip of whalebone
+as a substitute. For those parts where a needle cannot conveniently be
+passed under the skin, they use the method by puncture, which is common
+in other countries, and by which our seamen frequently mark their hands
+and arms. Several of the men were marked on the back part of their
+hands; and with them we understood it to be considered as a _souvenir_
+of some distant deceased person who had performed it.
+
+In their winter habitations, I have before mentioned that the only
+materials employed are snow and ice; the latter being made use of for
+the windows alone. The work is commenced by cutting from a drift of hard
+and compact snow a number of oblong slabs, six or seven inches thick and
+about two feet in length, and laying them edgeways on a level spot, also
+covered with snow, in a circular form, and of a diameter from eight to
+fifteen feet, proportioned to the number of occupants the hut is to
+contain. Upon this as a foundation is laid a second tier of the same
+kind, but with the pieces inclining a little inward, and made to fit
+closely to the lower slabs and to each other by running a knife adroitly
+along the under part and sides. The top of this tier is now prepared for
+the reception of a third, by squaring it off smoothly with a knife, all
+which is dexterously performed by one man standing within the circle and
+receiving the blocks of snow from those employed in cutting them
+without. When the wall has attained a height of four or five feet, it
+leans so much inward as to appear as if about to tumble every moment;
+but the workmen still fearlessly lay their blocks of snow upon it, until
+it is too high any longer to furnish the materials to the builder in
+this manner. Of this he gives notice by cutting a hole close to the
+ground in that part where the door is intended to be, which is near the
+south side, and through this the snow is now passed. Thus they continue
+till they have brought the sides nearly to meet in a perfect and
+well-constructed dome, sometimes nine or ten feet high in the centre;
+and this they take considerable care in finishing, by fitting the last
+block or _keystone_ very nicely in the centre, dropping it into its
+place from the outside, though it is still done by the man within. The
+people outside are in the mean time occupied in throwing up snow with
+the _p~oo=all~er=ay_ or snow shovel, and in stuffing in little
+wedges of snow where holes have been accidentally left.
+
+The builder next proceeds to let himself out by enlarging the proposed
+doorway into the form of a Gothic arch, three feet high and two feet and
+a half wide at the bottom, communicating with which they construct two
+passages, each from ten to twelve feet long and from four to five feet
+in height, the lowest being that next the hut. The roofs of these
+passages are sometimes arched, but more generally made flat by slabs
+laid on horizontally. In first digging the snow for building the hut,
+they take it principally from the part where the passages are to be
+made, which purposely brings the floor of the latter considerably lower
+than that of the hut, but in no part do they dig till the bare ground
+appears.
+
+The work just described completes the walls of a hut, if a single
+apartment only be required; but if, on account of relationship, or from
+any other cause, several families are to reside under one roof, the
+passages are made common to all, and the first apartment (in that case
+made smaller) forms a kind of antechamber, from which you go through an
+arched doorway five feet high into the inhabited apartments. When there
+are three of these, which is generally the case, the whole building,
+with its adjacent passages, forms a tolerably regular cross.
+
+For the admission of light into the huts, a round hole is cut on one
+side of the roof of each apartment, and a circular plate of ice, three
+or four inches thick and two feet in diameter, let into it. The light is
+soft and pleasant, like that transmitted through ground glass, and it is
+quite sufficient for every purpose. When, after some time, these
+edifices become surrounded by drift, it is only by the windows, as I
+have before remarked, that they could be recognised as human
+habitations. It may, perhaps, then be imagined how singular is their
+external appearance at night, when they discover themselves only by a
+circular disk of light transmitted through the windows from the lamps
+within.
+
+The next thing to be done is to raise a bank of snow, two and a half
+feet high, all round the interior of each apartment, except on the side
+next the door. This bank, which is neatly squared off, forms their beds
+and fireplace, the former occupying the sides, and the latter the end
+opposite the door. The passage left open up to the fireplace is between
+three and four feet wide. The beds are arranged by first covering the
+snow with a quantity of small stones, over which are laid their paddles,
+tentpoles, and some blades of whalebone: above these they place a number
+of little pieces of network, made of thin slips of whalebone, and lastly
+a quantity of twigs of birch[008] and of the _andromeda tetragona_.
+Their deerskins, which are very numerous, can now be spread without risk
+of their touching the snow; and such a bed is capable of affording not
+merely comfort, but luxurious repose, in spite of the rigour of the
+climate. The skins thus used as blankets are made of a large size and
+bordered, like some of the jackets, with a fringe of long, narrow slips
+of leather, in which state a blanket is called _k=eipik_.
+
+The fire belonging to each family consists of a single lamp, or shallow
+vessel of _lapis ollaris_, its form being the lesser segment of a
+circle. The wick, composed of dry moss rubbed between the hands till it
+is quite inflammable, is disposed along the edge of the lamp on the
+straight side, and a greater or smaller quantity lighted, according to
+the heat required or the fuel that can be afforded. When the whole
+length of this, which is sometimes above eighteen inches, is kindled, it
+affords a most brilliant and beautiful light, without any perceptible
+smoke or any offensive smell. The lamp is made to supply itself with
+oil, by suspending a long, thin slice of whale, seal, or seahorse
+blubber near the flame, the warmth of which causes the oil to drip into
+the vessel until the whole is extracted. Immediately over the lamp is
+fixed a rude and rickety framework of wood, from which their pots are
+suspended, and serving also to sustain a large hoop of bone, having a
+net stretched tight within it. This contrivance, called _Inn~et~at_,
+is intended for the reception of any wet things, and is usually loaded
+with boots, shoes, and mittens.
+
+The fireplace just described as situated at the upper end of the
+apartment, has always two lamps facing different ways, one for each
+family occupying the corresponding bedplace. There is frequently, also,
+a smaller and less-pretending establishment on the same model--lamp,
+pot, net, and all--in one of the corners next the door; for one
+apartment sometimes contains three families, which are always closely
+related; and no married woman, or even a widow without children, is
+without her separate fireplace.
+
+With all the lamps lighted and the hut full of people and dogs, a
+thermometer placed on the net over the fire indicated a temperature of
+38 deg.; when removed two or three feet from this situation, it fell to
+31 deg.; and, placed close to the wall, stood at 23 deg., the temperature
+of the open air at the time being 25 deg. below _zero_. A greater degree
+of warmth than this produces extreme inconvenience by the dropping from
+the roofs. This they endeavour to obviate by applying a little piece of
+snow to the place from which a drop proceeds, and this adhering, is for a
+short time an effectual remedy; but for several weeks in the spring, when
+the weather is too warm for these edifices, and still too cold for tents,
+they suffer much on this account.
+
+The most important, perhaps, of the domestic utensils, next to the lamp
+already described, are the _=o=otk~o~os~e~eks_, or stone
+pots for cooking. These are hollowed out of solid _lapis ollaris_, of an
+oblong form, wider at the top than at the bottom all made in similar
+proportion; though of various sizes corresponding with the dimensions
+of the lamp which burns under it. The pot is suspended by a line of
+sinew at each end to the framework over the fire, and thus becomes so
+black on every side that the original colour of the stone is in no part
+discernible. Many of them were cracked quite across in several places,
+and mended by sewing with sinew or rivets of copper, iron, or lead, so
+as, with the assistance of a lashing and a due proportion of dirt, to
+render them quite watertight.
+
+Besides the ootkooseeks, they have circular and oval vessels of
+whalebone, of various sizes, which, as well as their ivory knives made
+out of a walrus's tusk, are precisely similar to those described on the
+western coast of Baffin's Bay in 1820. They have also a number of
+smaller vessels of skin sewed neatly together; and a large basket of the
+same material, resembling a common sieve in shape, but with the bottom
+close and tight, is to be seen in every apartment. Under every lamp
+stands a sort of "save-all," consisting of a small skin basket for
+catching the oil that falls over. Almost every family was in possession
+of a wooden tray very much resembling those used to carry butcher's meat
+in England, and of nearly the same dimensions, which we understood them
+to have procured by way of Noowook. They had a number of the bowls or
+cups already once or twice alluded to as being made out of the thick
+root of the horn of the musk-ox. Of the smaller part of the same horn
+they also form a convenient drinking-cup, sometimes turning it up
+artificially about one third from the point, so as to be almost parallel
+to the other part, and cutting it full of small notches as a
+convenience in grasping it. These or any other vessels for drinking they
+call _Imm=o=ochiuk_.
+
+Besides the ivory knives, the men were well supplied with a much more
+serviceable kind, made of iron, and called _panna_. The form of this
+knife is very peculiar, being seven inches long, two and a quarter
+broad, quite straight and flat, pointed at the end, and ground equally
+sharp at both edges; this is firmly secured into a handle of bone or
+wood about a foot long, by two or three iron rivets, and has all the
+appearance of a most destructive spearhead, but is nevertheless put to
+no other purpose than that of a very useful knife, which the men are
+scarcely ever without, especially on their sealing excursions. For
+these, and several knives of European form, they are probably indebted
+to an indirect communication with our factories in Hudson's Bay. The
+same may be observed of the best of their women's knives (_ooloo_), on
+one of which, of a larger size than usual, were the names of "Wild and
+Sorby." When of their own manufacture, the only iron part was a little
+narrow slip let into the bone and secured by rivets.
+
+Of the horn of the musk-ox they make also very good spoons, much like
+ours in shape; and I must not omit to mention their marrow spoons
+(_patt=ekniuk_, from _p=att~ek_, marrow), made out of long,
+narrow, hollowed pieces of bone, of which every housewife has a bunch of
+half a dozen or more tied together, and generally attached to her
+needle-case.
+
+For the purpose of obtaining fire, the Esquimaux use two lumps of common
+iron pyrites, from which sparks are struck into a little leathern case
+containing moss well dried and rubbed between the hands. If this tinder
+does not readily catch, a small quantity of the white floss of the seed
+of the ground-willow is laid above the moss. As soon as a spark has
+caught, it is gently blown till the fire has spread an inch around,
+when, the pointed end of a piece of oiled wick being applied, it soon
+bursts into a flame--the whole process having occupied perhaps two or
+three minutes.
+
+In enumerating the articles of their food, we might, perhaps, give a
+list of every animal inhabiting these regions, as they certainly will,
+at times, eat any one of them. Their principal dependance, however, is
+on the reindeer (_t=o=okto~o_); musk-ox (_=o=om~ingm~uk_),
+in the parts where this animal is found; whale (_=agg~aw~ek_);
+walrus (_=ei-~u-~ek_); the large and small seal (_=og~uke_ and
+_n~eitiek_); and two sorts of salmon, the _=ew~ee-t=ar~oke_
+(_salmo alpinus?_) and _ichl=u~ow~oke_. The latter is taken by
+hooks in fresh-water lakes, and the former by spearing in the shoal
+water of certain inlets of the sea. Of all these animals, they can only
+procure in the winter the walrus and small seal upon this part of the
+coast; and these at times, as we have seen, in scarcely sufficient
+quantity for their subsistence.
+
+They certainly, in general, prefer eating their meat cooked, and, while
+they have fuel, they usually boil it; but this is a luxury, and not a
+necessary to them. Oily as the nature of their principal food is, yet
+they commonly take an equal proportion of lean to their fat, and, unless
+very hungry, do not eat it otherwise. Oil they seldom or never use in
+any way as a part of their general diet; and even our butter, of which
+they were fond, they would not eat without a due quantity of
+bread.[009] They do not like salt meat as well as fresh, and never use
+salt themselves; but ship's pork or even a red herring did not come
+amiss to them. Of pea-soup they would eat as much as the sailors could
+afford to give them; and that word was the only one, with the exception
+of our names, which many of them ever learned in English. Among their
+own luxuries must be mentioned a rich soup called k=ay~o, made of
+blood, gravy, and water, and eaten quite hot.
+
+Their only drink is water; and of this, when they can procure it, they
+swallow an inconceivable quantity; so that one of the principal
+occupations of the women during the winter is the thawing of snow in the
+ootkooseeks for this purpose. They cut it into thin slices, and are
+careful to have it clean, on which account they will bring it from a
+distance of fifty yards from the huts. They have an extreme dislike to
+drinking water much above the temperature of 32 deg. In eating their
+meals, the mistress of the family, having previously cooked the meat,
+takes a large lump out of the pot with her fingers, and hands it to her
+husband, who, placing a part of it between his teeth, cuts it off with a
+large knife in that position, and then passes the knife and meat together
+to his next neighbour. In cutting off a mouthful of meat, the knife
+passes so close to their lips, that nothing but constant habit could
+ensure them from the danger of the most terrible gashes; and it would
+make an English mother shudder to see the manner in which children five
+or six years old are at all times freely trusted with a knife to be used
+in this way.
+
+The length of one of the best of seven canoes belonging to these
+Esquimaux was twenty-five feet, including a narrow-pointed projection,
+three feet long at each end, which turns a little upward from the
+horizontal. The extreme breadth, which is just before the circular hole,
+was twenty-one inches, and the depth ten inches and a half. The plane of
+the upper surface of the canoe, except in the two extreme projections,
+bends downward a little from the centre towards the head and stern,
+giving it the appearance of what in ships is called "broken-backed." The
+gunwales are of fir, in some instances of one piece, three or four
+inches broad in the centre, and tapering gradually away towards the
+ends. The timbers, as well as the fore-and-aft connecting pieces, are of
+the same material, the former being an inch square, and sometimes so
+close together as to require between forty and fifty of them in one
+canoe: which, when thus "in frame," is one of the prettiest things of
+the kind that can be imagined. The skin with which the canoe is covered
+is exclusively that of the _neitiek_, prepared by scraping off the hair
+and fat with an _ooloo_, and stretching it tight on a frame over the
+fire; after which and a good deal of chewing, it is sown on by the women
+with admirable neatness and strength. Their paddles have a blade at each
+end, the whole length being nine feet and a half; the blades are covered
+with a narrow plate of bone round the ends to secure them from
+splitting; they are always made of fir, and generally of several pieces
+scarfed and woolded together.
+
+In summer they rest their canoes upon two small stones raised four feet
+from the ground, and in winter on a similar structure of snow; in one
+case to allow them to dry freely, and in the other to prevent the
+snowdrift from covering, and the dogs from eating them. The difficulty
+of procuring a canoe may be concluded from the circumstance of there
+being at Winter Island twenty men able to manage one, and only seven
+canoes among them. Of these, indeed, only three or four were in good
+repair; the rest being wholly or in part stripped of the skin, of which
+a good deal was occasionally cut off during the winter, to make boots,
+shoes, and mittens for our people. We found no _oomiak_, or woman's
+boat, among them, and understood that they were not in the habit of
+using them, which may in part be accounted for by their passing so much
+of the summer in the interior; they knew very well, however, what they
+were, and made some clumsy models of them for our people.
+
+In the weapons used for killing their game there is considerable
+variety, according to the animal of which they are in pursuit. The most
+simple of these is the _=o=on~ak_, which they use only for killing
+the small seal. It consists of a light staff of wood, four feet in
+length, having at one end the point of a narwhal's horn, from ten to
+eighteen inches long, firmly secured by rivets and wooldings; at the
+other end is a smaller and less effective point of the same kind. To
+prevent losing the ivory part in case of the wood breaking, a stout
+thong runs along the whole length of the wood, each end passing through
+a hole in the ivory, and the bight secured in several places to the
+staff. In this weapon, as far as it has yet been described, there is
+little art or ingenuity displayed; but a considerable degree of both in
+an appendage called _si=atk~o_, consisting of a piece of bone three
+inches long, and having a point of iron at one end, and at the other end
+a small hole or socket to receive the point of the oonak. Through the
+middle of this instrument is secured the _=allek_, or line of thong,
+of which every man has, when sealing, a couple of coils, each from four
+to six fathoms long, hanging at his back.
+
+When a seal is seen, the siatko is taken from a little leathern case, in
+which, when out of use, it is carefully enclosed, and attached by its
+socket to the point of the spear; in this situation it is retained by
+bringing the allek tight down and fastening it round the middle of the
+staff by what seamen call a "slippery-hitch," which may instantly be
+disengaged by pulling on the other end of the line. As soon as the spear
+has been thrown and the animal struck, the siatko is thus purposely
+separated; and being slung by the middle, now performs very effectually
+the important office of a barb, by turning at right angles to the
+direction in which it has entered the orifice. This device is in its
+principle superior even to our barb; for the instant any strain is put
+upon the line, it acts like a toggle, opposing its length to a wound
+only as wide as its own breadth.
+
+The _=akl~eak_ or _akl=e=eg~a_, used for the large seal, has a
+blown bladder attached to the staff, for the purpose of impeding the
+animal in the water.
+
+The third and largest weapon is that called _katteelik_, with which the
+walrus and whale are attacked. The staff of this is not longer, but much
+stouter than that of the others, especially towards the middle, where
+there is a small shoulder of ivory securely lashed to it for the thumb
+to rest against, and thus to give additional force in throwing or
+thrusting the spear. The ivory point of this weapon is made to fit into
+a socket at the end of the staff, where it is secured by double thongs
+in such a manner as steadily to retain its position when a strain is put
+upon it in the direction of its length, but immediately disengaging
+itself with a sort of spring when any lateral strain endangers its
+breaking. The siatko is always used with this spear; and to the end of
+the allek, when the animal pursued is in open water, they attach a whole
+sealskin (_h~ow-w=ut-t~a_), inflated like a bladder, for the
+purpose of tiring it out in its progress through the water.
+
+They have a spear called _~ippoo_ for killing deer in the water. They
+describe it as having a light staff and a small head of iron; but they
+had none of these so fitted in the winter. The _n=ug~uee_, or dart
+for birds, has, besides its two ivory prongs at the end of the staff,
+three divergent ones in the middle of it, with several small double
+barbs upon them turning inward. The spear for salmon or other fish,
+called _k=ak~eew~ei_, consists of a wooden staff, with a spike of
+bone or ivory, three inches long, secured at one end. On each side of
+the spike is a curved prong, much like that of a pitchfork, but made of
+flexible horn, which gives them a spring, and having a barb on the inner
+part of the point turning downward. Their fishhooks (_kakli=okio_)
+consist only of a nail crooked and pointed at one end, the other being
+let into a piece of ivory to which the line is attached. A piece of
+deer's horn or curved bone only a foot long is used as a rod, and
+completes this very rude part of their fishing-gear.
+
+Of their mode of killing seals in the winter I have already spoken in
+the course of the foregoing narrative, as far as we were enabled to make
+ourselves acquainted with it. In their summer exploits on the water, the
+killing of the whale is the most arduous undertaking which they have to
+perform; and one cannot sufficiently admire the courage and activity
+which, with gear apparently so inadequate, it must require to accomplish
+this business. Okotook, who was at the killing of two whales in the
+course of a single summer, and who described the whole of it quite _con
+amore_, mentioned the names of thirteen men who, each in his canoe, had
+assisted on one of these occasions. When a fish is seen lying on the
+water, they cautiously paddle up astern of him, till a single canoe,
+preceding the rest, comes close to him on one quarter, so as to enable
+the man to drive the _katteelik_ into the animal with all the force of
+both arms. This having the _siatko_, a long _allek_, and the inflated
+sealskin attached to it, the whale immediately dives, taking the whole
+apparatus with him except the katteelik, which, being disengaged in the
+manner before described, floats to the surface, and is picked up by its
+owner. The animal reappearing after some time, all the canoes again
+paddle towards him, some warning being given by the sealskin buoy
+floating on the surface. Each man being furnished like the first, they
+repeat the blows as often as they find opportunity, till perhaps, every
+line has been thus employed. After pursuing him in this manner sometimes
+for half a day, he is at length so wearied by the resistance of the
+buoys, and exhausted by the loss of blood, as to be obliged to rise more
+and more often to the surface, when, by frequent wounds with their
+spears, they succeed in killing him, and tow their prize in triumph to
+the shore.
+
+In attacking the walrus in the water they use the same gear, but much
+more caution than with the whale, always throwing the _katteelik_ from
+some distance, lest the animal should attack the canoe and demolish it
+with his tusks. The walrus is, in fact, the only animal with which they
+use any caution of this kind. They like the flesh better than that of
+the seal; but venison is preferred by them to either of these, and,
+indeed, to any other kind of meat.
+
+At Winter Island they carefully preserved the heads of all the animals
+killed during the winter, except two or three of the walrus, which we
+obtained with great difficulty. As the blood of the animals which they
+kill is all used as food of the most luxurious kind, they are careful to
+avoid losing any portion of it; for this purpose they carry with
+them on their excursions a little instrument of ivory called
+_t~oop=o=ot~a_, in form and size exactly resembling a "twenty-penny"
+nail, with which they stop up the orifice made by the spear, by
+thrusting it through the skin by the sides of the wound, and securing
+it with a twist.
+
+One of the best of their bows was made of a single piece of fir, four
+feet eight inches in length, flat on the inner side and rounded on the
+outer, being five inches in girth about the middle, where, however, it
+is strengthened on the concave side, when strung, by a piece of bone ten
+inches long, firmly secured by treenails of the same material. At each
+end of the bow is a knob of bone, or sometimes of wood covered with
+leather, with a deep notch for the reception of the string. The only
+wood which they can procure, not possessing sufficient elasticity
+combined with strength, they ingeniously remedy the defect by securing
+to the back of the bow, and to the knobs at each end, a quantity of
+small lines, each composed of a plat or "sinnet" of three sinews. The
+number of lines thus reaching from end to end is generally about thirty;
+but, besides these, several others are fastened with hitches round the
+bow, in pairs, commencing eight inches from one end, and again united at
+the same distance from the other, making the number of strings in the
+middle of the bow sometimes amount to sixty. These being put on with the
+bow bent somewhat the contrary way, produce a spring so strong as to
+require considerable force as well as knack in stringing it, and giving
+the requisite velocity to the arrow. The bow is completed by a woolding
+round the middle, and a wedge or two, here and there, driven in to
+tighten it. A bow in one piece is, however, very rare; they generally
+consist of from two to five pieces of bone of unequal lengths, secured
+together by rivets and treenails.
+
+The arrows vary in length from twenty to thirty inches, according to the
+materials that can be commanded. About two thirds of the whole length
+is of fir rounded, and the rest of bone let by a socket into the wood,
+and having a head of thin iron, or more commonly of slate, secured into
+a slit by two treenails. Towards the opposite end of the arrow are two
+feathers, generally of the spotted oval, not very neatly lashed on. The
+bowstring consists of from twelve to eighteen small lines of three-sinew
+sinnet, having a loose twist, and with a separate becket of the same
+size for going over the knobs at the end of the bow.
+
+We tried their skill in archery by getting them to shoot at a mark for a
+prize, though with bows in extremely bad order on account of the frost,
+and their hands very cold. The mark was two of their spears stuck
+upright in the snow, their breadth being three inches and a half. At
+twenty yards they struck this every time; at thirty, sent the arrows
+always within an inch or two of it; and at forty or fifty yards, I
+should think, would generally hit a fawn if the animal stood still.
+These weapons are perhaps sufficient to inflict a mortal wound at
+something more than that distance, for which, however, a strong arm
+would be required. The animals which they kill with the bow and arrow
+for their subsistence are principally the musk-ox and deer, and less
+frequently the bear, wolf, fox, hare, and some of the smaller animals.
+
+The reindeer are killed by the Esquimaux in great abundance in the
+summer season, partly by driving them from islands or narrow necks of
+land into the sea, and then spearing them from their canoes; and partly
+by shooting them from behind heaps of stones raised for the purpose of
+watching them, and imitating their peculiar bellow or grunt. Among the
+various artifices which they employ for this purpose, one of the most
+ingenious consists in two men walking directly _from_ the deer they wish
+to kill, which almost always follows them. As soon as they arrive at a
+large stone, one of the men hides behind it with his bow, while the
+other continuing to walk on, soon leads the deer within range of his
+companion's arrows. They are also very careful to keep to leeward of the
+deer, and will scarcely go out after them at all when the weather is
+calm. For several weeks in the course of the summer, some of these
+people almost entirely give up their fishery on the coast, retiring to
+the banks of lakes several miles in the interior, which they represent
+as large and deep, and abounding with salmon, while the pasture near
+them affords good feeding to numerous herds of deer.
+
+The distance to which these people extend their inland migrations, and
+the extent of coast of which they possess a personal knowledge, are
+really very considerable. A great number of them, who were born at
+Amitioke and Igloolik, had been to _Noowook_, or nearly as far south as
+Chesterfield Inlet, which is about the _ne plus ultra_ of their united
+knowledge in a southerly direction. Okotook and a few others of the
+Winter Island tribe had extended their peregrinations a considerable
+distance to the northward, over the large insular piece of land to which
+we have applied the name of Cockburn Island; which they described as
+high land, and the resort of numerous reindeer. By the information
+afterward obtained when nearer the spot, we had reason to suppose this
+land must reach beyond the seventy-second degree of latitude in a
+northerly direction; so that these people possess a personal knowledge
+of the Continent of America and its adjacent islands, from that parallel
+to Chesterfield Inlet in 63-3/4 deg., being a distance of more than five
+hundred miles reckoned in a direct line, besides the numerous turnings
+and windings of the coast along which they are accustomed to travel.
+Ewerat and some others had been a considerable distance up the Wager
+River; but no record had been preserved among them of Captain
+Middleton's visit to that inlet about the middle of the last century.
+
+Of the Indians they know enough by tradition to hold them in
+considerable dread, on account of their cruel and ferocious manners.
+When, on one occasion, we related the circumstances of the inhuman
+massacre described by Hearne, they crowded round us in the hut,
+listening with mute and almost breathless attention; and the mothers
+drew their children closer to them, as if to guard them from the
+dreadful catastrophe.
+
+The Esquimaux take some animals in traps, and by a very ingenious
+contrivance of this kind they caught two wolves at Winter Island. It
+consists of a small house built of ice, at one end of which a door, made
+of the same plentiful material, is fitted to slide up and down in a
+groove; to the upper part of this a line is attached, and, passing over
+the roof, is let down into the trap at the inner end, and there held by
+slipping an eye in the end of it over a peg of ice left for the purpose.
+Over the peg, however, is previously placed a loose grummet, to which
+the bait is fastened, and a false roof placed over all to hide the line.
+The moment the animal drags at the bait, the grummet slips off the peg,
+bringing with it the line that held up the door, and this, falling down,
+closes the trap and secures him,
+
+A trap for birds is formed by building a house of snow just large enough
+to contain one person, who closes himself up in it. On the top is left a
+small aperture, through which the man thrusts one of his hands to secure
+the bird the moment he alights to take away a bait of meat laid beside
+it. It is principally gulls that are taken thus; and the boys sometimes
+amuse themselves in this manner. A trap in which they catch foxes has
+been mentioned in another place.
+
+The sledges belonging to these Esquimaux were in general large and
+heavily constructed, being more adapted to the carriage of considerable
+burdens than to very quick travelling. They varied in size, being from
+six feet and a half to nine feet in length, and from eighteen inches to
+two feet in breadth. Some of those at Igloolik were of larger
+dimensions, one being eleven feet in length, and weighing two hundred
+and sixty-eight pounds, and two or three others above two hundred
+pounds. The runners are sometimes made of the right and left jaw-bones
+of a whale; but more commonly of several pieces of wood or bone scarfed
+and lashed together, the interstices being filled, to make all smooth
+and firm, with moss stuffed in tight, and then cemented by throwing
+water to freeze upon it. The lower part of the runner is shod with a
+plate of harder bone, coated with fresh-water ice to make it run
+smoothly, and to avoid wear and tear, both which purposes are thus
+completely answered. This coating is performed with a mixture of snow
+and fresh water about half an inch thick, rubbed over it till it is
+quite smooth and hard upon the surface, and this is usually done a few
+minutes before setting out on a journey. When the ice is only in part
+worn off, it is renewed by taking some water into the mouth, and
+spirting it over the former coating. We noticed a sledge which was
+extremely curious, on account of one of the runners and a part of the
+other being constructed without the assistance of wood, iron, or bone of
+any kind. For this purpose, a number of sealskins being rolled up and
+disposed into the requisite shape, an outer coat of the same kind was
+sewed tightly round them; this formed the upper half of the runner, the
+lower part of which consisted entirely of moss moulded while wet into
+the proper form, and being left to freeze, adhering firmly together and
+to the skins. The usual shoeing of smooth ice beneath completed the
+runner, which, for more than six months out of twelve, in this climate,
+was nearly as hard as any wood; and for winter use, no way inferior to
+those constructed of more durable materials. The cross-pieces which form
+the bottom of the sledges are made of bone, wood, or anything they can
+muster. Over these is generally laid a sealskin as a flooring, and in
+the summer time a pair of deer's horns are attached to the sledge as a
+back, which in the winter are removed, to enable them, when stopping, to
+turn the sledge up, so as to prevent the dogs running away with it. The
+whole is secured by lashings of thong, giving it a degree of strength
+combined with flexibility which perhaps no other mode of fastening could
+effect.
+
+The colour of the dogs varies from a white, through brindled, to black
+and white, or almost entirely black. Their hair in the winter is from
+three to four inches long; but, besides this, nature furnishes them,
+during this rigorous season, with a thick under coating of close, soft
+wool, which they begin to cast in the spring. While thus provided, they
+are able to withstand the most inclement weather without suffering from
+the cold; and, at whatever temperature the atmosphere may be, they
+require nothing but a shelter from the wind to make them comfortable,
+and even this they do not always obtain. They are also wonderfully
+enabled to endure the cold even on those parts of the body which are not
+thus protected; for we have seen a young puppy sleeping, with its bare
+paw laid on an ice-anchor, with the thermometer at -30 deg., which, with
+one of our dogs, would have produced immediate and intense pain, if not
+subsequent mortification. They never bark, but have a long, melancholy
+howl like that of the wolf, and this they will sometimes perform in
+concert for a minute or two together. They are, besides, always snarling
+and fighting among one another, by which several of them are generally
+lame. When much caressed and well fed, they become quite familiar and
+domestic: but this mode of treatment does not improve their qualities as
+animals of draught. Being desirous of ascertaining whether these dogs
+are wolves in a state of domestication, a question which we understood
+to have been the subject of some speculation, Mr. Skeoch, at my request,
+made a skeleton of each, when the number of all the vertebrae was found
+to be the same in both,[010] and to correspond with the well-known
+anatomy of the wolf.
+
+When drawing a sledge, the dogs have a simple harness (_annoo_) of deer
+or seal skin going round the neck by one bight, and another for each of
+the fore legs, with a single thong leading over the back and attached to
+the sledge as a trace. Though they appear at first sight to be huddled
+together without regard to regularity, there is, in fact, considerable
+attention paid to their arrangement, particularly in the selection of a
+dog of peculiar spirit and sagacity, which is allowed, by a longer
+trace, to precede the rest as leader, and to which, in turning to the
+right or left, the driver usually addresses himself. This choice is made
+without regard to age or sex, and the rest of the dogs take precedence
+according to their training or sagacity, the least effective being put
+nearest the sledge. The leader is usually from eighteen to twenty feet
+from the fore part of the sledge, and the hindermost dog about half that
+distance, so that when ten or twelve are running together, several are
+nearly abreast of each other. The driver sits quite low on the fore part
+of the sledge, with his feet overhanging the snow on one side, and
+having in his hand a whip, of which the handle, made either of wood,
+bone, or whalebone, is eighteen inches, and the lash more than as many
+feet in length. The part of the thong next the handle is platted a
+little way down to stiffen it and give it a spring, on which much of its
+use depends; and that which composes the lash is chewed, by the women to
+make it flexible in frosty weather. The men acquire from their youth
+considerable expertness in the use of this whip, the lash of which is
+left to trail along the ground by the side of the sledge, and with which
+they can inflict a very severe blow on any dog at pleasure. Though the
+dogs are kept in training entirely by fear of the whip, and indeed
+without it would soon have their own way, its immediate effect is always
+detrimental to the draught of the sledge; for not only does the
+individual that is struck draw back and slacken his trace, but generally
+turns upon his next neighbour, and this, passing on to the next,
+occasions a general divergency, accompanied by the usual yelping and
+showing of teeth. The dogs then come together again by degrees, and the
+draught of the sledge is accelerated; but even at the best of times, by
+this rude mode of draught, the traces of one third of the dogs form an
+angle of thirty or forty degrees on each side of the direction in which
+the sledge is advancing. Another great inconvenience attending the
+Esquimaux method of putting the dogs to, besides that of not employing
+their strength to the best advantage, is the constant entanglement of
+the traces by the dogs repeatedly doubling under from side to side to
+avoid the whip, so that, after running a few miles, the traces always
+require to be taken off and cleared.
+
+In directing the sledge the whip acts no very essential part, the driver
+for this purpose using certain words, as the carters do with us, to make
+the dogs turn more to the right or left. To these a good leader attends
+with admirable precision, especially if his own name be repeated at the
+same time, looking behind over his shoulder with great earnestness, as
+if listening to the directions of the driver. On a beaten track, or
+even where a single foot or sledge mark is occasionally discernible,
+there is not the slightest trouble in guiding the dogs; for even in the
+darkest night and in the heaviest snowdrift, there is little or no
+danger of their losing the road, the leader keeping his nose near the
+ground, and directing the rest with wonderful sagacity. Where, however,
+there is no beaten track, the best driver among them makes a terribly
+circuitous course, as all the Esquimaux roads plainly show; these
+generally occupying an extent of six miles, when with a horse and sledge
+the journey would scarcely have amounted to five. On rough ground, as
+among hummocks of ice, the sledge would be frequently overturned or
+altogether stopped if the driver did not repeatedly get off, and, by
+lifting or drawing it to one side, steer it clear of those accidents. At
+all times, indeed, except on a smooth and well-made road, he is pretty
+constantly employed thus with his feet, which, together with his
+never-ceasing vociferations and frequent use of the whip, renders the
+driving of one of these vehicles by no means a pleasant or easy task.
+When the driver wishes to stop the sledge, he calls out "Wo, woa,"
+exactly as our carters do; but the attention paid to his command depends
+altogether on his ability to enforce it. If the weight is small and the
+journey homeward, the dogs are not to be thus delayed; the driver is
+therefore obliged to dig his heels into the snow to obstruct their
+progress; and, having thus succeeded in stopping them, he stands up with
+one leg before the foremost crosspiece of the sledge, till, by means of
+laying the whip gently over each dog's head, he has made them all lie
+down. He then takes care not to quit his position; so that, should the
+dogs set off, he is thrown upon the sledge, instead of being left behind
+by them.
+
+With heavy loads the dogs draw best with one of their own people,
+especially a woman, walking a little way ahead; and in this case they
+are sometimes enticed to mend their pace by holding a mitten to the
+mouth, and then making the motion of cutting it with a knife, and
+throwing it on the snow, when the dogs, mistaking it for meat, hasten
+forward to pick it up. The women also entice them from the huts in a
+similar manner. The rate at which they travel depends, of course, on the
+weight they have to draw and the road on which their journey is
+performed. When the latter is level, and very hard and smooth,
+constituting what in other parts of North America is called "good
+sleighing," six or seven dogs will draw from eight to ten hundred
+weight, at the rate of seven or eight miles an hour for several hours
+together, and will easily, under those circumstances, perform a journey
+of fifty or sixty miles a day; on untrodden snow, five-and-twenty or
+thirty miles would be a good day's journey. The same number of well-fed
+dogs, with a weight of only five or six hundred pounds (that of the
+sledge included), are almost unmanageable, and will, on a smooth road,
+run any way they please at the rate of ten miles an hour. The work
+performed by a greater number of dogs is, however, by no means in
+proportion to this; owing to the imperfect mode already described of
+employing the strength of these sturdy creatures, and to the more
+frequent snarling and fighting occasioned by an increase of numbers.
+
+In the summer, when the absence of snow precludes the use of sledges,
+the dogs are still made useful on journeys and hunting excursions, by
+being employed to carry burdens in a kind of saddle-bags laid across
+their shoulders. A stout dog thus accoutred will accompany his master,
+laden with a weight of about twenty or twenty-five pounds.
+
+The scent of the Esquimaux dogs is excellent; and this property is
+turned to account by their masters in finding the seal-holes, which
+these invaluable animals will discover entirely by the smell at a very
+great distance. The track of a single deer upon the snow will in like
+manner set them off at a full gallop when travelling, at least a quarter
+of a mile before they arrive at it, when they are with difficulty made
+to turn in any other direction; and the Esquimaux are accustomed to set
+them after those animals to hunt them down when already wounded with an
+arrow. In killing bears the dogs act a very essential part; and two or
+three of them, when led on by a man, will eagerly attack one of those
+ferocious creatures. An Esquimaux seldom uses any other weapon than his
+spear and _panna_ in this encounter, for which the readiness of the dogs
+may be implied from the circumstance of the word "nen-nook" (bear) being
+often used to encourage them when running in a sledge. Indeed, the only
+animal which they are not eager to chase is the wolf, of which the
+greater part of them seem to have an instinctive dread, giving notice at
+night of their approach to the huts by a loud and continued howl. There
+is not one dog in twenty among them that will voluntarily, or, indeed,
+without a great deal of beating, take the water, if they think it is out
+of their depth, and the few that would do so were spoken of as
+extraordinary exceptions.
+
+The Esquimaux in general treat their dogs much as an unfeeling master
+does his slaves; that is, they take just as much care of them as their
+own interest is supposed to require. The bitches with young are in the
+winter allowed to occupy a part of their own beds, where they are
+carefully attended and fed by the women, who will even supply the young
+ones with meat and water from their mouths as they do their own
+children, and not unfrequently also carry them in their hoods to take
+care of them. It is probably on this account that the dogs are always so
+much attached to the women, who can at any time catch them or entice
+them from the huts when the men fail. Two females that were with young
+on board the Fury in the month of February, brought forth six and seven
+at a litter, and the former number were all females. Their feeding,
+which, both in summer and winter, principally consists of k=a~ow, or
+the skin and part of the blubber of the walrus, is during the latter
+season very precarious, their masters having then but little to spare.
+They therefore become extremely thin at that time of the year, and would
+scarcely be recognised as the same animals as when regularly fed in the
+summer. No wonder, therefore, that they will eat almost anything,
+however tough or filthy, and that neither whipping nor shouting will
+prevent their turning out of the road, even when going at full speed, to
+pick up whatever they espy. When at the huts they are constantly
+creeping in to pilfer what they can, and half the time of the people
+sitting there is occupied in vociferating their names, and driving them
+by most unmerciful blows out of the apartments. The dogs have no water
+to drink during the winter, but lick up some clean snow occasionally as
+a substitute; nor, indeed, if water be offered them, do they care about
+it, unless it happens to be oily. They take great pleasure in rolling in
+clean snow, especially after or during a journey, or when they have been
+confined in a house during the night. Notwithstanding the rough
+treatment which they receive from their masters, their attachment to
+them is very great, and this they display after a short absence by
+jumping up and licking their faces all over with extreme delight. The
+Esquimaux, however, never caress them, and, indeed, scarcely ever take
+any notice of them but when they offend, and they are not then sparing
+in their blows. The dogs have all names, to which they attend with
+readiness, whether drawing in a sledge or otherwise. Their names are
+frequently the same as those of the people, and in some instances are
+given after the relations of their masters, which seems to be considered
+an act of kindness among them. Upon the whole, notwithstanding the
+services performed by these valuable creatures, I am of opinion that art
+cannot well have done less towards making them useful, and that the same
+means in almost any other hands would be employed to greater advantage.
+
+In the disposition of these people, there was, of course, among so many
+individuals, considerable variety as to the minute points; but in the
+general features of their character, which with them are not subject to
+the changes produced by foreign intercourse, one description will nearly
+apply to all.
+
+The virtue which, as respected ourselves, we could most have wished them
+to possess, is honesty; and the impression derived from the early part
+of our intercourse was certainly in this respect a favourable one. A
+great many instances occurred, some of which have been related where
+they appeared even scrupulous in returning articles that did not belong
+to them; and this, too, when detection of a theft, or, at least, of the
+offender, would have been next to impossible. As they grew more familiar
+with us, and the temptations became stronger, they gradually relaxed in
+their honesty, and petty thefts were from time to time committed by
+several individuals, both male and female, among them.
+
+The bustle which any search for stolen goods occasioned at the huts was
+sufficient proof of their understanding the estimation in which the
+crime was held by us. Until the affair was cleared up, they would affect
+great readiness to show every article which they had got from the ships,
+repeating the name of the donor with great warmth, as if offended at our
+suspicions, yet with a half smile on their countenance at our supposed
+credulity in believing them. There was, indeed, at all times, some,
+trick, and cunning in this show of openness and candour; and they would
+at times bring back some very trifling article that had been given them,
+tendering it as a sort of expiation for the theft of another much more
+valuable. When a search was making, they would invent all sorts of lies
+to screen themselves, not caring on whom besides the imputation fell;
+and more than once they directed our people to the apartments of others
+who were innocent of the event in question. If they really knew the
+offender, they were generally ready enough to inform against him, and
+this with an air of affected secrecy and mysterious importance; and, as
+if the dishonesty of another constituted a virtue in themselves, they
+would repeat this information frequently, perhaps for a month afterward,
+setting up their neighbour's offence as a foil to their own pretended
+honesty.
+
+In appreciating the character of these people for honesty, however, we
+must not fail to make allowance for the degree of temptation to which
+they were daily exposed, amid the boundless stores of wealth which our
+ships appeared to them to furnish. To draw a parallel case, we must
+suppose an European of the lower class suffered to roam about amid
+hoards of gold and silver; for nothing less valuable can be justly
+compared with the wood and iron that everywhere presented themselves to
+their view on board the ships. The European and the Esquimaux, who, in
+cases so similar, both resist the temptation to stealing, must be
+considered pretty nearly on a par in the scale of honesty; and, judging
+in this manner, the balance might possibly be found in favour of the
+latter, when compared with any similar number of Europeans taken at
+random from the lower class.
+
+In what has been hitherto said, regard has been had only to their
+dealings with _us_. In their transactions among themselves, there is no
+doubt that, except in one or two privileged cases, such as that of
+destitute widows, the strictest honesty prevails, and that, as regards
+the good of their own community, they are generally honest people. We
+have, in numberless instances, sent presents by one to another, and
+invariably found that they had been faithfully delivered. The manner in
+which their various implements are frequently left outside their huts is
+a proof, indeed, that robbery is scarcely known among them.
+
+In the barter of their various commodities, their dealings with us were
+fair and upright, though latterly they were by no means backward nor
+inexpert in driving a bargain. The absurd and childish exchanges which
+they at first made with our people induced them subsequently to complain
+that the Kabloonas had stolen their things, though the profit had
+eventually been a hundred-fold in their favour. Many such complaints
+were made, when the only fault in the purchaser had been excessive
+liberality, and frequently, also, as a retort, by way of warding off the
+imputation of some dishonesty of their own. A trick not uncommon with
+the women was to endeavour to excite the commiseration, and to tax the
+bounty of one person, by relating some cruel theft of this kind that
+had, as they said, been practised upon them by another. One day, after I
+had bought a knife of Togolat, she told Captain Lyon, in a most piteous
+tone, that _Parree_ had stolen her last _ooloo_, that she did not know
+what to do without one, and at length, coming to the point, begged him
+to give her one. Presently after this, her husband coming in and asking
+for something to eat, she handed him some meat, accompanied by a very
+fine ooloo. Her son, being thus reminded of eating, made the same
+request, upon which a second knife was produced, and immediately after a
+third of the same kind for herself. Captain Lyon, having amused himself
+in watching these proceedings, which so well confirmed the truth of the
+proverb, that certain people ought to have good memories, now took the
+knives, one by one, out of their hands, and, holding them up to Togolat,
+asked her if Parree had not stolen her last ooloo. A hearty laugh all
+round was the only notice taken by them of this direct detection of the
+deceit.
+
+The confidence which they really placed in us was daily and hourly
+evinced by their leaving their fishing gear stuck in the snow all round
+the ships; and not a single instance occurred, to my knowledge, of any
+theft committed on their property. The licking of the articles received
+from us was not so common with them as with Esquimaux in general, and
+this practice was latterly almost entirely left off by them.
+
+Among the unfavourable traits in their character must be reckoned an
+extreme disposition to envy, which displayed itself on various occasions
+during our intercourse with them. If we had made any presents in one
+hut, the inmates of the next would not fail to tell us of it,
+accompanying their remarks with some satirical observations, too
+unequivocally expressed to be mistaken, and generally by some stroke of
+irony directed against the favoured person. If any individual with whom
+we had been intimate happened to be implicated in a theft, the
+circumstance became a subject of satisfaction too manifest to be
+repressed, and we were told of it with expressions of the most
+triumphant exultation on every occasion. It was, indeed, curious, though
+ridiculous, to observe that, even among these simple people, and even in
+this obscure corner of the globe, that little gossip and scandal so
+commonly practised in small societies among us were very frequently
+displayed. This was especially the case with the women, of whom it was
+not uncommon to see a group sitting in a hut for hours together, each
+relating her _quota_ of information, now and then mimicking the persons
+of whom they spoke, and interlarding their stories with jokes evidently
+at the expense of their absent neighbours, though to their own infinite
+amusement.
+
+I have already, in the course of the foregoing narrative, hinted at the
+want of gratitude evinced by these people in their transactions with us.
+Some exceptions, for they were only exceptions, and rare ones, to this
+rule, have been mentioned as they occurred; but in general, however
+considerable the benefit conferred, it was forgotten in a day; and this
+forgetfulness was not unfrequently aggravated by their giving out that
+their benefactor had been so shabby as to make them no present at all.
+Even those individuals who, either from good behaviour or superior
+intelligence, had been most noticed by us, and particularly such as had
+slept on board the ships, and whether in health or sickness had received
+the most friendly treatment from everybody, were in general just as
+indifferent as the rest; and I do not believe that any one among them
+would have gone half a mile out of his road, or have sacrificed the most
+trivial self-gratification to serve us. Okotook and Iligliuk, whom I had
+most loaded with presents, and who had never offered me a single free
+gift in return, put into my hand, at the time of their first removal
+from Winter Island, a dirty, crooked model of a spear, so shabbily
+constructed that it had probably been already refused as an article of
+barter by many of the ship's company. On my accepting this, from an
+unwillingness to affront them, they were uneasy and dissatisfied till I
+had given them something in return, though their hands were full of the
+presents which I had just made them. Selfishness is, in fact, almost
+without exception, their universal characteristic, and the mainspring of
+all their actions, and that, too, of a kind the most direct and
+unamiable that can well be imagined.
+
+In the few opportunities we had of putting their hospitality to the
+test, we had every reason to be pleased with them. Both as to food and
+accommodation, the best they had were always at our service; and their
+attention, both in kind and degree, was everything that hospitality and
+even good-breeding could dictate. The kindly offices of drying and
+mending our clothes, cooking our provision, and thawing snow for our
+drink, were performed by the women with an obliging cheerfulness which
+we shall not easily forget, and which commanded its due share of our
+admiration and esteem. While thus their guest, I have passed an evening
+not only with comfort, but with extreme gratification; for, with the
+women working and singing, their husbands quietly mending their lines,
+the children playing before the door, and the pot boiling over the blaze
+of a cheerful lamp, one might well forget for the time that an Esquimaux
+hut was the scene of this domestic comfort and tranquillity; and I can
+safely affirm with Cartwright,[011] that, while thus lodged beneath
+their roof, I know no people whom I would more confidently trust, as
+respects either my person or my property, than the Esquimaux.
+
+The estimation in which women are held among these people is, I think,
+somewhat greater than is usual in savage life. In their general
+employments they are by no means the drudges that the wives of the
+Greenlander's are said to be; being occupied only in those cares which
+may properly be called domestic, and, as such, are considered the
+peculiar business of the women among the lower classes in civilized
+society. The wife of one of these people, for instance, makes and
+attends the fire, cooks the victuals, looks after the children, and is
+sempstress to her whole family; while her husband is labouring abroad
+for their subsistence. In this respect it is not even necessary to
+except their task Of cutting up the small seals, which is, in truth, one
+of the greatest luxuries and privileges they enjoy; and, even if it were
+esteemed a labour, it could scarcely be considered equivalent to that of
+the women in many of our own fishing-towns, where the men's business is
+at an end the moment the boat touches the beach. The most laborious of
+their tasks occur, perhaps, in making their various journeys, when all
+their goods and chattels are to be removed at once, and when each
+individual must undoubtedly perform a full share of the general labour.
+The women are, however, good walkers and not easily fatigued; for we
+have several times known a young woman of two-and-twenty, with a child
+in her hood, walk twelve miles to the ships and back again the same day,
+for the sake of a little bread-dust and a tin canister. When stationary
+in the winter, they have really almost a sinecure of it, sitting quietly
+in their huts, and having little or no employment for the greater part
+of the day. In short, there are few, if any people, in this state of
+society among whom the women are so well off. They always sit upon the
+beds with their legs doubled under them, and are uneasy in the posture
+usual with us. The men sometimes sit as we do, but more generally with
+their legs crossed before them.
+
+The women do not appear to be, in general, very prolific. Illumea indeed
+had borne seven children, but no second instance of an equal number in
+one family afterward came to our knowledge; three or four is about the
+usual number. They are, according to their own account, in the habit of
+suckling their children to the age of three years; but we have seen a
+child of five occasionally at the breast, though they are dismissed from
+the mother's hood at about the former age. It is not uncommon to see one
+woman suckling the child of another, while the latter happens to be
+employed in her other domestic occupations. They are in the habit, also,
+of feeding their younger children from their own mouths, softening the
+food by mastication, and then turning their heads round so that the
+infant in the hood may put its lips to theirs. The chill is taken from
+water for them in the same manner, and some fathers are very fond of
+taking their children on their knees and thus feeding them. The women
+are more desirous of having sons than daughters, as on the former must
+principally depend their support in old age.
+
+Twelve of the men had each two wives, and some of the younger ones had
+also two betrothed; two instances occurred of the father and son being
+married to sisters. The custom of betrothing children in their infancy
+is commonly practised here, in which respect these people differ from
+the natives of Greenland, where it is comparatively rare. A daughter of
+Arnaneelia, between two and three years old, had long been thus
+contracted to Okotook's son, a hero of six or seven, and the latter used
+to run about the hut calling his intended by the familiar appellation of
+_N~o~oll=e-~a_ (wife), to the great amusement of the parents.
+When a man has two wives there is generally a difference of five or six
+years in their ages. The senior takes her station next the principal
+fire, which comes entirely under her management; and she is certainly
+considered in some respects superior to the other, though they usually
+live together in the utmost harmony. The men sometimes repudiate their
+wives without ceremony, in case of real or supposed bad behaviour as in
+Greenland, but this does not often occur. There was a considerable
+disparity of age between many of the men and their wives, the husband
+being sometimes the oldest by twenty years or more, and this also when
+he had never married any former wife. We knew no instance in which the
+number of a man's wives exceeded two, and, indeed, we had every reason
+to believe that the practice is never admitted among them. We met with a
+singular instance of two men having exchanged wives, in consequence
+merely of one of the latter being pregnant at the time when her husband
+was about to undertake a long journey.
+
+The authority of the husband seems to be sufficiently absolute,
+depending, nevertheless, in great measure on the dispositions of the
+respective parties. Iligliuk was one of those women who seem formed to
+manage their husbands; and we one day saw her take Okotook to task in a
+very masterly style, for having bartered away a good jacket for an old
+useless pistol, without powder or shot. He attempted at first to bluster
+in his turn, and with most women would probably have gained his point.
+But with Iligliuk this would not do; she saw at once the absurdity of
+his bargain, and insisted on his immediately cancelling it, which was
+accordingly done, and no more said about it. In general, indeed, the
+husband maintains his authority, and in several instances of supposed
+bad behaviour in a wife, we saw obedience enforced in a very summary
+manner. It is very rare, however, to see them proceed to this extremity;
+and the utmost extent of a husband's want of tenderness towards his wife
+consists in making her walk or lead the dogs, while he takes his own
+seat in the sledge and rides in comfort. Widows, as might be expected,
+are not so well off as those whose husbands are living, and this
+difference is especially apparent in their clothes, which are usually
+very dirty, thin, and ragged; when, indeed, they happen to have no near
+relatives, their fate, as we have already seen, is still worse than
+this.
+
+I fear we cannot give a very favourable account of the chastity of the
+women, nor of the delicacy of their husbands in this respect. As for the
+latter, it was not uncommon for them to offer their wives as freely for
+sale as a knife or a jacket. Some of the young men informed us that,
+when two of them were absent together on a sealing excursion, they often
+exchanged wives for the time, as a matter of friendly convenience; and,
+indeed, without mentioning any other instances of this nature, it may
+safely be affirmed, that in no country is prostitution carried to
+greater lengths than among these people. The behaviour of most of the
+women when their husbands were absent from the huts, plainly evinced
+their indifference towards them, and their utter disregard of connubial
+fidelity. The departure of the men was usually the signal for throwing
+aside restraint, which was invariably resumed on their return. For this
+event they take care to be prepared by the report of the children, one
+of whom is usually posted on the outside for the purpose of giving due
+notice.
+
+The affection of parents for their children was frequently displayed by
+these people, not only in the mere passive indulgence, and abstinence
+from corporeal punishment, for which Esquimaux have before been
+remarked, but by a thousand playful endearments also, such as parents
+and nurses practise in our own country. Nothing, indeed, can well exceed
+the kindness with which they treat their children, and this trait in
+their character deserves to be the more insisted on, because it is, in
+reality, the only very amiable one which they possess. It must be
+confessed, indeed, that the gentleness and docility of the children are
+such as to occasion their parents little trouble, and to render severity
+towards them quite unnecessary. Even from their earliest infancy they
+possess that quiet disposition, gentleness of demeanour, and uncommon
+evenness of temper, for which, in more mature age, they are for the most
+part distinguished. Disobedience is scarcely ever known; a word or even
+a look from a parent is enough; and I never saw a single instance of
+that frowardness and disposition to mischief which, with our youth, so
+often requires the whole attention of a parent to watch over and to
+correct. They never cry from trifling accidents, and sometimes not even
+from very severe hurts, at which an English child would sob for an hour.
+It is, indeed, astonishing to see the indifference with which, even as
+tender infants, they bear the numerous blows they accidentally receive,
+when carried at their mothers' backs.
+
+They are just as fond of play as any other young people, and of the same
+kind; only that while an English child draws a cart of wood, an
+Esquimaux of the same age has a sledge of whalebone; and for the superb
+baby-house of the former, the latter builds a miniature hut of snow, and
+begs a lighted wick from her mother's lamp to illuminate the little
+dwelling. Their parents make for them, as dolls, little figures of men
+and women, habited in the true Esquimaux costume, as well as a variety
+of other toys, many of them having some reference to their future
+occupations in life, such as canoes, spears, and bows and arrows. The
+drum or tambarine, mentioned by Crantz, is common among them, and used
+not only by the children, but by the grown-up people at some of their
+games. They sometimes serrate the edges of two strips of whalebone and
+whirl them round their heads, just as boys do in England to make the
+same peculiar humming sound. They will dispose one piece of wood on
+another, as an axis, in such a manner that the wind turns it round like
+the arms of a windmill; and so of many other toys of the same simple
+kind. These are the distinct property of the children, who will
+sometimes sell them, while their parents look on without interfering or
+expecting to be consulted.
+
+When not more than eight years old, the boys are taken by their fathers
+on their sealing excursions, where they begin to learn their future
+business; and even at that early age they are occasionally intrusted to
+bring home a sledge and dogs from a distance of several miles over the
+ice. At the age of eleven we see a boy with his water-tight boots and
+moccasins, a spear in his hand, and a small coil of line at his back,
+accompanying the men to the fishery, under every circumstance; and from
+this time his services daily increase in value to the whole tribe. On
+our first intercourse with them we supposed that they would not
+unwillingly part with their children, in consideration of some valuable
+present, but in this we afterward found that we were much mistaken.
+Happening one day to call myself Toolooak's _attata_ (father), and
+pretend that he was to remain with me on board the ship, I received from
+the old man, his father, no other answer than what seemed to be very
+strongly and even satirically implied, by his taking one of our
+gentlemen by the arm and calling him _his_ son; thus intimating that the
+adoption which he proposed was as feasible and as natural as my own.
+
+The custom of adoption is carried to very great lengths among these
+people, and served to explain to us several apparent inconsistencies
+with respect to their relationships. The custom owes its origin entirely
+to the obvious advantage of thus providing for a man's own subsistence
+in advanced life; and it is consequently confined almost without
+exception to the adoption of _sons_, who can alone contribute
+materially to the support of an aged and infirm parent. When a man
+adopts the son of another as his own, he is said to "_tego_," or take
+him; and at whatever age this is done (though it generally happens in
+infancy), the child then lives with his new parents, calls them father
+and mother, is sometimes even ignorant of any such transfer having been
+made, especially if his real parents should be dead; and whether he
+knows it or not, is not always willing to acknowledge any but those with
+whom he lives. The agreement seems to be always made between the
+fathers, and to differ in no respect from the transfer of other
+property, except that none can equal in value the property thus disposed
+of. The good sense, good fortune, or extensive claims of some
+individuals were particularly apparent in this way, from the number of
+sons they had adopted. Toolemak, deriving, perhaps, some advantage from
+his qualifications as Angetkook, had taken care to negotiate for the
+adoption of some of the finest male children of the tribe; a provision
+which now appeared the more necessary, from his having lost four
+children of his own, besides Noogloo, who was one of his _tego'd_ sons.
+In one of the two instances that came to our knowledge of the adoption
+of a female child, both its own parents were still living, nor could we
+ascertain the motive for this deviation from the more general custom.
+
+In their behaviour to old people, whose age or infirmities render them
+useless, and, therefore, burdensome to the community, the Esquimaux
+betray a degree of insensibility bordering on inhumanity, and ill
+repaying the kindness of an indulgent parent. The old man Hikkeiera,
+who was very ill during the winter, used to lie day after day, little
+regarded by his wife, son, daughter, and other relatives, except that
+his wretched state constituted, as they well knew, a forcible claim upon
+our charity; and, with this view, it was sure to excite a whine of
+sympathy and commiseration whenever we visited or spoke of him. When,
+however, a journey of ten miles was to be performed over the ice, they
+left him to find his way with a stick in the best manner he could, while
+the young and robust ones were many of them drawn on sledges. There is,
+indeed, no doubt that, had their necessities or mode of life required a
+longer journey than he could thus have accomplished, they would have
+pushed on like the Indians, and left a fellow-creature to perish. It was
+certainly considered incumbent on his son to support him, and he was
+fortunate in that son's being a very good man; but a few more such
+journeys to a man of seventy would not impose this encumbrance upon him
+much longer. Illumea, the mother of several grown-up children, lived
+also in the same hut with her other relations. She did not, however,
+interfere, as in Greenland, with the management of her son's domestic
+concerns, though his wife was half an idiot. She was always badly
+clothed, and, even in the midst of plenty, not particularly well-fed,
+receiving everything more as an act of charity than otherwise; and she
+will probably be less and less attended to, in proportion as she stands
+more in need of assistance.
+
+The different families appear always to live on good terms with each
+other, though each preserves its own habitation and property as
+distinct and independent as any housekeeper in England. The persons
+living under one roof, who are generally closely related, maintain a
+degree of harmony among themselves which is scarcely ever disturbed. The
+more turbulent passions which, when unrestrained by religious principle,
+or unchecked by the dread of human punishment, usually create so much
+havoc in the world, seem to be very seldom excited in the breasts of
+these people, which renders personal violence or immoderate anger
+extremely rare among them; and one may sit in a hut for a whole day, and
+never observe an angry word or look, except in driving out the dogs. If
+they take an offence, it is more common for them to show it by the more
+quiet method of sulkiness, and this they now and then tried as a matter
+of experiment with us. Okotook, who was often in this humour, once
+displayed it to some of our gentlemen in his own hut, by turning his
+back and frequently repeating the expression "good-by," as a broad hint
+to them to go away. Toolooak was also a little given to this mood, but
+never retained it long, and there was no malice mixed with his
+displeasure. One evening that he slept on board the Fury, he either
+offended Mr. Skeoch, or thought that he had done so, by this kind of
+humour; at all events, they parted for the night without any formal
+reconciliation. The next morning Mr. Skeoch was awakened at an unusually
+early hour, by Toolooak's entering his cabin and taking hold of his hand
+to shake it, by way of making up the supposed quarrel. On a disposition
+thus naturally charitable, what might not Christian education and
+Christian principles effect? Where a joke is evidently intended, I
+never knew people more ready to join in it than these are. If ridiculed
+for any particularity of manner, figure, or countenance, they are sure
+not to be long behind-hand in returning it, and that very often with
+interest. If we were the aggressors in this way, some ironical
+observation respecting the _Kabloonas_ was frequently the consequence;
+and no small portion of wit as well as irony was at times mixed with
+their raillery.
+
+In point of intellect as well as disposition, great variety was, of
+course, perceptible among the different individuals of this tribe; but
+few of them were wanting in that respect. Some, indeed, possessed a
+degree of natural quickness and intelligence which, perhaps, could
+hardly be surpassed in the natives of any country. Iligliuk, though one
+of the least amiable, was particularly thus gifted. When she really
+wished to develop our meaning, she would desire her husband and all the
+rest to hold their tongues, and would generally make it out while they
+were puzzling their heads to no purpose. In returning her answers, the
+very expression of her countenance, though one of the plainest among
+them, was almost of itself sufficient to convey her meaning; and there
+was, in these cases, a peculiarly decisive energy in her manner of
+speaking which was extremely interesting. This woman would, indeed, have
+easily learned anything to which she chose to direct her attention; and
+had her lot been cast in a civilized country instead of this dreary
+region, which serves alike to "freeze the genial current of the soul"
+and body, she would probably have been a very clever person. For want
+of a sufficient object, however, neither she nor any of her companions
+ever learned a dozen words of English, except our names, with which it
+was their interest to be familiar, and which, long before we left them,
+any child could repeat, though in their own style of pronunciation.
+
+Besides the natural authority of parents and husbands, these people
+appear to admit no kind of superiority among one another, except a
+certain degree of superstitious reverence for their _angetkooks_, and
+their tacitly following the counsel or steps of the most active
+seal-catcher on their hunting excursions. The word _nallegak_, used in
+Greenland to express "master," and "lord" in the Esquimaux translations
+of the Scriptures, they were not acquainted with. One of the young men
+at Winter Island appeared to be considered somewhat in the light of a
+servant to Okotook, living with the latter, and quietly allowing him to
+take possession of all the most valuable presents which he received from
+us. Being a sociable people, they unite in considerable numbers to form
+a settlement for the winter; but on the return of spring they again
+separate into several parties, each appearing to choose his own route,
+without regard to that of the rest, but all making their arrangements
+without the slightest disagreement or difference of opinion that we
+could ever discover. In all their movements, they seem to be actuated by
+one simultaneous feeling that is truly admirable.
+
+Superior as our arts, contrivances, and materials must unquestionably
+have appeared to them, and eager as they were to profit by this
+superiority, yet, contradictory as it may seem, they certainly looked
+upon us in many respects with profound contempt; maintaining that idea
+of self-sufficiency which has induced them, in common with the rest of
+their nation, to call themselves, by way of distinction, Innue, or
+mankind. One day, for instance, in securing some of the gear of a
+sledge, Okotook broke a part of it, composed of a piece of our white
+line, and I shall never forget the contemptuous sneer with which he
+muttered in soliloquy the word "Kabloona!" in token of the inferiority
+of our materials to his own. It is happy, perhaps, when people,
+possessing so few of the good things of this life, can be thus contented
+with the little allotted them.
+
+The men, though low in stature, are not wanting in muscular strength in
+proportion to their size, or in activity and hardiness. They are good
+and even quick walkers, and occasionally bear much bodily fatigue, wet,
+and cold, without appearing to suffer by it, much less to complain of
+it. Whatever labour they have gone through, and with whatever success in
+procuring game, no individual ever seems to arrogate to himself the
+credit of having done more than his neighbour for the general good. Nor
+do I conceive there is reason to doubt their personal courage, though
+they are too good-natured often to excite others to put that quality to
+the test. It is true, they will recoil with horror at the tale of an
+Indian massacre, and probably cannot conceive what should induce one set
+of men deliberately and without provocation to murder another. War is
+not their trade; ferocity forms no part of the disposition of the
+Esquimaux. Whatever manly qualities they possess are exercised in a
+different way, and put to a far more worthy purpose. They are
+fishermen, and not warriors; but I cannot call that man a coward who,
+at the age of one-and-twenty, will attack a polar bear single-handed, or
+fearlessly commit himself to floating masses of ice, which the next puff
+of wind may drift for ever from the shore.
+
+Of the few arts possessed by this simple people, some account has
+already been given in the description of their various implements. As
+mechanics, they have little to boast when compared with other savages
+lying under equal disadvantages as to scantiness of tools and materials.
+As carpenters, they can scarf two pieces of wood together, secure them
+with pins of whalebone or ivory, fashion the timbers of a canoe, shoe a
+paddle, and rivet a scrap of iron into a spear or arrow-head. Their
+principal tool is the knife (panna); and, considering the excellence of
+a great number which they possessed previous to our intercourse with
+them, the work they do is remarkably coarse and clumsy. Their very
+manner of holding and handling a knife is the most awkward that can be
+imagined. For the purpose of boring holes, they have a drill and bow so
+exactly like our own, that they need no farther description, except that
+the end of the drill handle, which our artists place against their
+breasts, is rested by these people against a piece of wood or bone held
+in their mouths, and having a cavity fitted to receive it. With the use
+of the saw they were well acquainted, but had nothing of this kind in
+their possession better than a notched piece of iron. One or two small
+European axes were lashed to handles in a contrary direction to ours,
+that is, to be used like an adze, a form which, according to the
+observation of a traveller[012] well qualified to judge, savages in
+general prefer. It was said that these people steamed or boiled wood, in
+order to bend it for fashioning the timbers of their canoes. As
+fishermen or seamen, they can put on a woolding or seizing with
+sufficient strength and security, and are acquainted with some of the
+most simple and serviceable knots in use among us. In all the arts,
+however, practised by the men, it is observable that the ingenuity lies
+in the principle, not in the execution. The experience of ages has led
+them to adopt the most efficacious methods, but their practice as
+handicrafts has gone no farther than absolute necessity requires; they
+bestow little labour upon neatness or ornament.
+
+In some of the few arts practised by the women there is much more
+dexterity displayed, particularly in that important branch of a
+housewife's business, sewing, which, even with their own clumsy needles
+of bone, they perform with extraordinary neatness. They had, however,
+several steel needles of a three-cornered shape, which they kept in a
+very convenient case, consisting of a strip of leather passed through a
+hollow bone, and having its ends remaining out, so that the needles
+which are stuck into it may be drawn in and out at pleasure. These cases
+were sometimes ornamented by cutting; and several thimbles of leather,
+one of which, in sewing, is worn on the first finger, are usually
+attached to it, together with a bunch of narrow spoons and other small
+articles liable to be lost. The thread they use is the sinew of the
+reindeer (_tooktoo =ew=all~o~o_), or, when they cannot procure
+this, the swallow-pipe of the _neiliek_. This may be split into threads
+of different sizes, according to the nature of their work, and is
+certainly a most admirable material. This, together with any other
+articles of a similar kind, they keep in little bags, which are
+sometimes made of the skin of birds' feet, disposed with the claws
+downward in a very neat and tasteful manner. In sewing, the point of the
+needle is entered and drawn through in a direction towards the body, and
+not from it or towards one side, as with our seamstresses. They sew the
+deerskins with a "round seam," and the water-tight boots and shoes are
+"stitched." The latter is performed in a very adroit and efficacious
+manner, by putting the needle only half through the substance of one
+part of the sealskin, so as to leave no hole for admitting the water. In
+cutting out the clothes, the women do it after one regular and uniform
+pattern, which probably descends unaltered from generation to
+generation. The skin of the deer's head is always made to form the
+_apex_ of the hood, while that of the neck and shoulders comes down the
+back of the jacket; and so of every other part of the animal which is
+appropriated to its particular portion of the dress. To soften the
+sealskins of which the boots, shoes, and mittens are made, the women
+chew them for an hour or two together and the young girls are often seen
+employed in thus preparing the materials for their mothers. The covering
+of the canoes is a part of the women's business, in which good
+workmanship is especially necessary to render the whole smooth and
+water-tight. The skins, which are those of the _neitiek_ only, are
+prepared by scraping off the hair and the fleshy parts with an _ooloo,_
+and stretching them out tight on a frame, in which state they are left
+over the lamps or in the sun for several days to dry; and after this
+they are well chewed by the women to make them fit for working. The
+dressing of leather and of skins in the hair, is an art which the women
+have brought to no inconsiderable degree of perfection. They perform
+this by first cleansing the skin from as much of the fat and fleshy
+matter as the _ooloo_ will take off, and then rubbing it hard for
+several hours with a blunt scraper, called _si=ak~o~ot_, so as
+nearly to dry it. It is then put into a vessel containing urine, and
+left to steep a couple of days, after which a drying completes the
+process. Skins dressed in the hair are, however, not always thus
+steeped; the women, instead of this, chewing them for hours together
+till they are quite soft and clean. Some of the leather thus dressed
+looked nearly as well as ours, and the hair was as firmly fixed to the
+pelt; but there was in this respect a very great difference, according
+to the art or attention of the housewife. Dyeing is an art wholly
+unknown to them. The women are very expert at platting, which is usually
+done with three threads of sinew; if greater strength is required,
+several of these are twisted slackly together, as in the bowstrings. The
+quickness with which some of the women plat is really surprising; and it
+is well that they do so, for the quantity required for the bows alone
+would otherwise occupy half the year in completing it.
+
+It may be supposed that, among so cheerful a people as the Esquimaux,
+there are many games or sports practised; indeed, it was rarely that we
+visited their habitations without seeing some engaged in them. One of
+these our gentlemen saw at Winter Island, on an occasion when most of
+the men were absent from the huts on a sealing excursion, and in this
+Iligliuk was the chief performer. Being requested to amuse them in this
+way, she suddenly unbound her hair, platted it, tied both ends together
+to keep it out of her way, and then stepping out into the middle of the
+hut, began to make the most hideous faces that can be conceived, by
+drawing both lips into her mouth, poking forward her chin, squinting
+frightfully, occasionally shutting one eye, and moving her head from
+side to side as if her neck had been dislocated. This exhibition, which
+they call _=ay=ok~it-t=ak-poke_, and which is evidently
+considered an accomplishment that few of them possess in perfection,
+distorts every feature in the most horrible manner imaginable, and
+would, I think, put our most skilful horse-collar grinners quite out of
+countenance.
+
+The next performance consists in looking steadfastly and gravely
+forward, and repeating the words _t~ab=ak-tabak, k~eib=o-keibo,
+k~e-b=ang-~e-n=u-t~o-~e~ek, kebang-enutoeek, ~am=at~am=a-amatama_, in
+the order in which they are here placed, but each at least four times,
+and always by a peculiar modulation of the voice, speaking them in pairs
+as they are coupled above. The sound is made to proceed from the throat
+in a way much resembling ventriloquism, to which art it is indeed an
+approach. After the last _amatama_ Iligliuk always pointed with her
+finger towards her body, and pronounced the word _angetkook,_ steadily
+retaining her gravity for five or six seconds, and then bursting into a
+loud laugh, in which she was joined by all the rest. The women sometimes
+produce a much more guttural and unnatural sound, repeating principally
+the word _=ikk~er~ee-ikkeree_, coupling them as before, and staring in
+such a manner as to make their eyes appear ready to burst out of their
+sockets with the exertion. Two or more of them will sometimes stand up
+face to face, and with great quickness and regularity respond to each
+other, keeping such exact time that the sound appears to come from one
+throat instead of several. Very few of the females are possessed of this
+accomplishment, which is called _pitkoo-she-r=ak-poke_, and it is not
+uncommon to see several of the younger females practising it. A third
+part of the game, distinguished by the word _keit=ik-poke_, consists
+only in falling on each knee alternately--a piece of agility which they
+perform with tolerable quickness, considering the bulky and awkward
+nature of their dress.
+
+The last kind of individual exhibition was still performed by Iligliuk,
+to whom in this, as in almost everything else, the other women tacitly
+acknowledged their inferiority, by quietly giving place to her on every
+occasion. She now once more came forward, and letting her arms hang down
+loosely and bending her body very much forward, shook herself with,
+extreme violence, as if her whole frame had been strongly convulsed,
+uttering at the same time, in a wild tone of voice, some of the
+unnatural sounds before mentioned.
+
+This being at an end, a new exhibition was commenced, in which ten or
+twelve women took a part, and which our gentlemen compared to
+blind-man's buff. A circle being formed, and a boy despatched to look
+out at the door of the hut, Iligliuk, still the principal actress,
+placed herself in the centre, and after making a variety of guttural
+noises for about half a minute, shut her eyes and ran about till she had
+taken hold of one of the others, whose business it then became to take
+her station in the centre, so that almost every woman in her turn
+occupied this post; and in her own peculiar way, either by distortion of
+countenance or other gestures, performed her part in the game. This
+continued three quarters of an hour; and, from the precaution of placing
+a look-out, who was withdrawn when it was over, as well as from some
+very expressive signs which need not here be mentioned, there is reason
+to believe that it is usually followed by certain indecencies, with
+which their husbands are not to be acquainted. Kaoongut was present,
+indeed, on this occasion, but his age seemed to render him a privileged
+person; besides which, his own wife did not join in the game.
+
+The most common amusement, however, and to which their husbands made no
+objection, they performed at Winter Island expressly for our
+gratification. The females being collected to the number of ten or
+twelve, stood in as large a circle as the hut would admit, with Okotook
+in the centre. He began by a sort of half howling, half singing noise,
+which appeared as if designed to call the attention of the women, the
+latter soon commencing the _Amna Aya_ song hereafter described. This
+they continued without variety, remaining quite still while Okotook
+walked round within the circle; his body was rather bent forward, his
+eyes sometimes closed, his arms constantly moving up and down, and now
+and then hoarsely vociferating a word or two, as if to increase the
+animation of the singers, who, whenever he did this, quitted the chorus
+and rose into the words of the song. At the end of ten minutes they all
+left off at once, and after one minute's interval commenced a second act
+precisely similar and of equal duration; Okotook continuing to invoke
+their muse as before. A third act, which followed this, varied only in
+his frequently, towards the close, throwing his feet up before and
+clapping his hands together, by which exertion he was thrown into a
+violent perspiration. He then retired, desiring a young man (who, as we
+were informed, was the only individual of several then present thus
+qualified) to take his place in the centre as master of the ceremonies,
+when the same antics as before were again gone through. After this
+description it will scarcely be necessary to remark, that nothing can be
+poorer in its way than this tedious singing recreation, which, as well
+as everything in which dancing is concerned, they express by the word
+m~om=ek-poke. They seem, however, to take great delight in it; and
+even a number of men, as well as all the children, crept into the hut by
+degrees to peep at the performance.
+
+The Esquimaux women and children often amuse themselves with a game not
+unlike our "skip-rope." This is performed by two women holding the ends
+of a line, and whirling it regularly round and round, while a third
+jumps over it in the middle, according to the following order. She
+commences by jumping twice on both feet, then alternately with the right
+and left, and next four times with the feet slipped one behind the
+other, the rope passing once round at each jump. After this she performs
+a circle on the ground, jumping about half a dozen times in the course
+of it, which bringing her to her original position, the same thing is
+repeated as often as it can be done without entangling the line. One or
+two of the women performed this with considerable agility and
+adroitness, considering the clumsiness of their boots and jackets, and
+seemed to pride themselves, in some degree, on the qualification. A
+second kind of this game consists in two women holding a long rope by
+its ends, and whirling it round in such a manner, over the heads of two
+others standing close together near the middle of the bight, that each
+of these shall jump over it alternately. The art, therefore, which is
+indeed considerable, depends more on those whirling the rope than on the
+jumpers, who are, however, obliged to keep exact time, in order to be
+ready for the rope passing under their feet.
+
+The whole of these people, but especially the women, are fond of music,
+both vocal and instrumental. Some of them might be said to be
+passionately so, removing their hair from off their ears, and bending
+their heads forward, as if to catch the sounds more distinctly, whenever
+we amused them in this manner. Their own music is entirely vocal,
+unless, indeed, the drum and tambarine before mentioned be considered an
+exception.
+
+The voices of the women are soft and feminine, and, when singing with
+the men, are pitched an octave higher than theirs. They have most of
+them so far good ears, that, in whatever key a song is commenced by one
+of them, the rest will always join in perfect unison. After singing for
+ten minutes, the key had usually fallen a full semitone. Only two of
+them, of whom Iligliuk was one, could catch the tune as pitched by an
+instrument, which made it difficult with most of them to complete the
+writing of the notes; for if they once left off they were sure to
+recommence in some other key, though a flute or violin was playing at
+the time.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+During the season passed at Winter Island, which appears to have been a
+healthy one with the Esquimaux, we had little opportunity of becoming
+acquainted with the diseases to which they are subject. Our subsequent
+intercourse with a great number of these people at Igloolik having
+unfortunately afforded more frequent and fatal instances of sickness
+among them, I here insert Mr. Edwards's remarks on this subject.
+
+
+     "Our first communication with these people at Winter Island gave us
+     a more favourable impression of their general health than
+     subsequent experience confirmed. There, however, they were not free
+     from sickness. A catarrhal affection, in the month of February,
+     became generally prevalent, from which they readily recovered after
+     the exciting causes, intemperance and exposure to wet, had ceased
+     to operate. A solitary instance of pleurisy also occurred, which
+     probably might have ended fatally but for timely assistance. Our
+     intercourse with them in the summer was more interrupted; but at
+     our occasional meetings they were observed to be enjoying excellent
+     health. It is probable that their certain supplies of food, and the
+     nomade kind of life they lead in its pursuit during that season,
+     are favourable to health. Nutrition goes on actively, and an
+     astonishing increase of strength and fulness is acquired. Active
+     diseases might now be looked for, but that the powers of nature are
+     providentially exerted with effect.
+
+     "The unlimited use of stimulating animal food, on which they are
+     from infancy fed, induces at an early age a highly plethoric state
+     of the vascular system. The weaker, over-distended vessels of the
+     nose quickly yield to the increased impetus of the blood, and an
+     active hemorrhage relieves the subject. As the same causes continue
+     to be applied in excess at frequent intervals, and are followed by
+     similar effects, a kind of vicarious hemorrhage at length becomes
+     established by habit; superseding the intervention of art, and
+     having no small share in maintaining a balance in the circulating
+     system. The phenomenon is too constant to have escaped the
+     observation of those who have visited the different Esquimaux
+     people; a party of them has, indeed, rarely been seen, that did not
+     exhibit two or three instances of the fact.
+
+     "About the month of September, the approach of winter induced the
+     Esquimaux at Igloolik to abandon their tents and to retire into
+     their more established village. The majority were here crowded into
+     huts of a permanent construction, the materials composing the sides
+     being stones and the bones of whales, and the roofs being formed of
+     skins, turf, and snow; the rest of the people were lodged in snow
+     huts. For a while they continued very healthy; in fact, as long as
+     the temperature of the interior did not exceed the freezing point,
+     the vapours of the atmosphere congealed upon the walls, and the
+     air remained dry and tolerably pure; besides, their hard-frozen
+     winter stock of walrus did not at this time tempt them to indulge
+     their appetites immoderately. In January the temperature suffered
+     an unseasonable rise; some successful captures of walrus also took
+     place; and these circumstances, combined perhaps with some
+     superstitious customs of which we were ignorant, seemed the signal
+     for giving way to sensuality. The lamps were accumulated, and the
+     kettles more frequently replenished; and gluttony, in its most
+     disgusting form, became for a while the order of the day. The
+     Esquimaux were now seen wallowing in filth, while some, surfeited,
+     lay stretched upon their skins, enormously distended, and with
+     their friends employed in rolling them about, to assist the
+     operations of oppressed nature. The roofs of their huts were no
+     longer congealed, but dripping with wet and threatening speedy
+     dissolution. The air was, in the bone huts, damp, hot, and beyond
+     sufferance offensive with putrid exhalations from the decomposing
+     relics of offals or other animal matter permitted to remain from
+     year to year undisturbed in these horrible sinks.
+
+     "What the consequences might have been had this state of affairs
+     long continued, it is not difficult to imagine; but, fortunately
+     for them, an early and gradual dispersion took place, so that by
+     the end of January few individuals were left in the village. The
+     rest, in divided bodies, established themselves in snow huts upon
+     the sea-ice at some distance from the land. Before this change had
+     been completed, disorders of an inflammatory character had
+     appeared. A few went away sick, some were unable to remove, and
+     others taken ill upon the ice, and we heard of the death of several
+     about this period.
+
+     "Their distance from the ships at once precluded any effectual
+     assistance being rendered them at their huts, and their removal on
+     board with safety; the complaints of those who died at the huts,
+     therefore, did not come under observation. It appears, however, to
+     have been acute inflammation of some of the abdominal viscera, very
+     rapid in its career. In the generality, the disease assumed a more
+     insidious and sub-acute form, under which the patient lingered for
+     a while, and was then either carried off by a diarrhoea, or slowly
+     recovered by the powers of nature. Three or four individuals, who,
+     with some risk and trouble, were brought to the ships, we were
+     providentially instrumental in recovering; but two others, almost
+     helpless patients, were so far exhausted before their arrival, that
+     the endeavours used were unsuccessful, and death was probably
+     hastened by their removal.
+
+     "That affection of the eyes known by the name of snow-blindness, is
+     extremely frequent among these people. With them it scarcely ever
+     goes beyond painful irritation, while among strangers inflammation
+     is sometimes the consequence. I have not seen them use any other
+     remedy besides the exclusion of light; but, as a preventive, a
+     wooden eye-screen is worn, very simple in its construction,
+     consisting of a curved piece of wood, six or seven inches long, and
+     ten or twelve lines broad. It is tied over the eyes like a pair of
+     spectacles, being adapted to the forehead and nose, and hollowed
+     out to favour the motion of the eyelids. A few rays of light only
+     are admitted through a narrow slit an inch long, cut opposite to
+     each eye.
+
+     "There are, upon the whole, no people more destitute of curative
+     means than these. With the exception of the hemorrhage already
+     mentioned, which they duly appreciate, and have been observed to
+     excite artificially to cure headache, they are ignorant of any
+     rational method of procuring relief. It has not been ascertained
+     that they use a single herb medicinally. As prophylactics, they
+     wear amulets, which are usually the teeth, bones, or hair of some
+     animal, the more rare apparently the more valuable. In absolute
+     sickness they depend entirely upon their Angekoks, who, they
+     persuade themselves, have influence over some submarine deities who
+     govern their destiny. The mummeries of these impostors, consisting
+     in pretended consultations with their oracles, are looked upon with
+     confidence, and their mandates, however absurd, superstitiously
+     submitted to. These are constituted of unmeaning ceremonies and
+     prohibitions generally affecting the diet, both in kind and mode,
+     but never in quantity. Seal's flesh is forbidden, for instance, in
+     one disease, that of the walrus in the other; the heart is denied
+     to some, and the liver to others. A poor woman, on discovering that
+     the meat she had in her mouth was a piece of fried heart instead of
+     liver, appeared horror-struck; and a man was in equal tribulation
+     at having eaten, by mistake, a piece of meat cooked in his wife's
+     kettle.
+
+     "Personal deformity from malconformation is uncommon; the only
+     instance I remember being that of a young woman, whose utterance
+     was unintelligibly nasal, in consequence of an imperfect
+     development of the palatine bones leaving a gap in the roof of the
+     mouth."
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Whatever may be the abundance sometimes enjoyed by these people, and
+whatever the maladies occasioned by their too frequent abuse of it, it
+is certain that they occasionally suffer very severely from the opposite
+extreme. A remarkably intelligent woman informed Captain Lyon, that two
+years ago some Esquimaux arrived at Igloolik from a place near
+_Akkoolee_, bringing information that, during a very grievous famine,
+one party of men had fallen upon another and killed them; and that they
+afterward subsisted on their flesh, while in a frozen state, but never
+cooked or even thawed it. This horrible account was soon after confirmed
+by Toolemak on board the Fury; and though he was evidently uneasy at our
+having heard the story, and conversed upon it with reluctance, yet, by
+means of our questions, he was brought to name, upon his fingers, five
+individuals who had been killed upon this occasion. Of the fact,
+therefore, there can be no doubt; but it is certain, also, that we
+ourselves scarcely regarded it with greater horror than those who
+related it; and the occurrence may be considered similar to those
+dreadful instances on record, even among civilized nations, of men
+devouring one another, in wrecks or boats, when rendered desperate by
+the sufferings of actual starvation.
+
+The ceremony of crying, which has before been mentioned as practised
+after a person's death, is not, however, altogether confined to those
+melancholy occasions, but is occasionally adopted in cases of illness,
+and that of no very dangerous kind. The father of a sick person enters
+the apartment, and, after looking at him a few seconds without speaking,
+announces by a kind of low sob his preparation for the coming ceremony.
+At this signal every other individual present composes his features for
+crying, and the leader of the chorus then setting up a loud and piteous
+howl, which lasts about a minute, is joined by all the rest, who shed
+abundant tears during the process. So decidedly is this a matter of
+form, unaccompanied by any feeling of sorrow, that those who are not
+relatives shed just as many tears as those that are; to which may be
+added, that in the instances which we saw there was no real occasion for
+crying at all. It must, therefore, be considered in the light of a
+ceremony of condolence, which it would be either indecorous or unlucky
+to omit.
+
+I have already given several instances of the little care these people
+take in the interment of their dead, especially in the winter season; it
+is certain, however, that this arises from some superstitious notion,
+and particularly from the belief that any heavy weight upon the corpse
+would have an injurious effect upon the deceased in a future state of
+existence; for even in the summer, when it would be an easy matter to
+secure a body from the depredations of wild animals, the mode of burial
+is not essentially different. The corpse of a child observed by
+Lieutenant Palmer, he describes "as being laid in a regular but shallow
+grave, with its head to the northeast. It was decently dressed in a good
+deerskin jacket, and a sealskin prepared without the hair was carefully
+placed as a cover to the whole figure, and tucked in on all sides. The
+body was covered with flat pieces of limestone, which, however, were so
+light that a fox might easily have removed them. Near the grave were
+four little separate piles of stones, not more than a foot in height, in
+one of which we noticed a piece of red cloth and a black silk
+handkerchief, in a second a pair of child's boots and mittens, and in
+each of the others a whalebone pot. The face of the child looked
+unusually clean and fresh, and a few days could only have elapsed since
+its decease."
+
+These Esquimaux do not appear to have any idea of the existence of One
+Supreme Being, nor indeed can they be said to entertain any notions on
+this subject which may be dignified with the name of Religion. Their
+superstitions, which are numerous, have all some reference to the
+preternatural agency of a number of _to=orng~ow_ or spirits, with
+whom, on certain occasions, the _Angetkooks_ pretend to hold mysterious
+intercourse, and who, in various and distinct ways, are supposed to
+preside over the destinies of the Esquimaux. On particular occasions of
+sickness or want of food, the Angetkooks contrive, by means of a
+darkened hut, a peculiar modulation of the voices and the uttering of a
+variety of unintelligible sounds, to persuade their countrymen that they
+are descending to the lower regions for this purpose, where they force
+the spirits to communicate the desired information. The superstitious
+reverence in which these wizards are held, and a considerable degree of
+ingenuity in their mode of performing their mummery, prevent the
+detection of the imposture, and secure implicit confidence in these
+absurd oracles. Some account of their ideas repecting death, and of
+their belief in a future state of existence, has already been introduced
+in the course of the foregoing pages, in the order of those occurrences
+which furnished us with opportunities of observing them.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+NARRATIVE
+
+OF
+
+AN ATTEMPT TO REACH THE
+
+NORTH POLE,
+
+IN BOATS FITTED FOR THE PURPOSE, AND ATTACHED
+TO HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP HECLA,
+
+IN THE YEAR 1827.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+NARRATIVE
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+In April, 1826, I proposed to the Right Honourable Viscount Melville,
+first lord commissioner of the Admiralty, to attempt to reach the North
+Pole by means of travelling with sledge-boats over the ice, or through
+any spaces of open water that might occur. My proposal was soon
+afterward referred to the president and council of the Royal Society,
+who strongly recommended its adoption; and an expedition being
+accordingly directed to be equipped for this purpose, I had the honour
+of being appointed to the command of it; and my commission for his
+majesty's ship the Hecla, which was intended to carry us to Spitzbergen,
+was dated the 11th of November, 1826.
+
+Two boats were constructed at Woolwich, under my superintendence, after
+an excellent model suggested by Mr. Peake, and nearly resembling what
+are called "troop-boats," having great flatness of floor, with the
+extreme breadth carried well forward and aft, and possessing the utmost
+buoyancy, as well as capacity for stowage. Their length was twenty feet,
+and their extreme breadth seven feet. The timbers were made of tough ash
+and hickory, one inch by half an inch square, and a foot apart, with a
+"half-timber" of smaller size between each two. On the outside of the
+frame thus formed was laid a covering of Macintosh's water-proof
+canvass, the outer part being covered with tar. Over this was placed a
+plank of fir, only three sixteenths of an inch thick; then a sheet of
+stout felt; and, over all, an oak plank of the same thickness as the
+fir; the whole of these being firmly and closely secured to the timbers
+by iron screws applied from without. The following narrative will show
+how admirably the elasticity of this mode of construction was adapted to
+withstand the constant twisting and concussion to which the boats were
+subject.[013] On each side of the keel, and projecting considerably
+below it, was attached a strong "runner," shod with smooth steel, in the
+manner of a sledge, upon which the boat entirely rested while upon the
+ice; and, to afford some additional chance of making progress on hard
+and level fields, we also applied to each boat two wheels, of five feet
+diameter, and a small one abaft, having a swivel for steering by, like
+that of a Bath chair; but these, owing to the irregularities of the ice,
+did not prove of any service, and were subsequently relinquished. A
+"span" of hide-rope was attached to the forepart of the runners, and to
+this were affixed two strong ropes of horse-hair, for dragging the boat:
+each individual being furnished with a broad leathern shoulder-belt,
+which could readily be fastened to or detached from the drag-ropes. The
+interior arrangement consisted only of two thwarts; a locker at each
+end for the nautical and other instruments, and for the smaller stores;
+and a very slight framework along the sides for containing the bags of
+biscuit and our spare clothes. A bamboo mast nineteen feet long, a
+tanned duck sail, answering also the purpose of an awning, a spreat, one
+boat-hook, fourteen paddles, and a steer-oar, completed each boat's
+equipment.
+
+Two officers and twelve men (ten of the latter being seamen, and two
+marines) were selected for each boat's crew. It was proposed to take
+with us resources for ninety days; to set out from Spitzbergen, if
+possible, about the beginning of June; and to occupy the months of June,
+July, and August in attempting to reach the Pole and returning to the
+ship; making an average journey of thirteen miles and a half per day.
+Our provisions consisted of biscuit of the best wheaten flour; beef
+_pemmican_;[014] sweetened cocoa-powder, and a small proportion of rum,
+the latter concentrated to fifty-five per cent. above proof, in order to
+save weight and stowage. The proper instruments were provided, both by
+the Admiralty and the Board of Longitude, for making such observations
+as might be interesting in the higher latitudes, and as the nature of
+the enterprise would permit. Six pocket chronometers, the property of
+the public, were furnished for this service; and Messrs. Parkinson and
+Frodsham, with their usual liberality, intrusted to our care several
+other excellent watches, on trial, at their own expense.
+
+Annexed is a list of the different articles composing the equipment of
+the boats, together with the actual weight of each.
+
+
+                                                        Enter-      Endeav-
+                                                        prise       our
+                                                        lbs.        lbs.
+Boat .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .     . 1539        1542
+Bamboo mast, 1 spreat, 1 boat-hook, 1 steer-oar.     .   46-1/2      46-1/2
+Fourteen paddles .     .     .     .     .     .     .   41          41
+Sail (or awning) .     .     .     .     .     .     .   22          22
+Spare rope and line    .     .     .     .     .     .    6           6
+Small sounding line (750 fathoms in all) .     .     .    8          10
+Carpenters' tools, screws, nails, &c.    .     .     .   10          10
+Copper and felt for repairs  .     .     .     .     .   19          19
+Four fowling pieces,with 2 bayonets.     .     .     .   15          15
+Small articles for guns.     .     .     .     .     .   --           4
+Ammunition .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .   17-1/2      17-1/2
+Instruments.     .     .     .     .     .     .     .   29          29
+Books.     .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .    7           5-1/2
+S {
+p {Fur Suits for sleeping in (14 in each boat) .     .  162         162
+a {Thick-nailed boots (14 in each boat)  .     .     .   47          47
+r {Esquimaux do., with spare soles (14 in each       .
+e {  boat  .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .   33          33
+C {Flannel shirts (7 in each boat) .     .     .     .    8-3/4       8-3/4
+l {Guernsey frocks (do. do.) .     .     .     .     .   11-1/2      11-1/2
+o {Thick drawers   (do. do.)       .     .     .     .   14          14
+t {Mittens (28 in each boat) .     .     .     .     .    5           5
+h {Comforters (14 in each boat)    .     .     .     .    1           1
+e {Scotch caps (do. do.)     .     .     .     .     .    4           4
+s {
+A bag of small articles for the officers,            .
+  including soap, &c., &c.   .     .     .     .     .    4           4
+Do. do. for the men   do.    .     .     .     .     .   12          12
+Biscuit    .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .  628         628
+Pemmican   .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .  564         564
+Rum        .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .  180         180
+Cocoa powder, sweetened.     .     .     .     .     .   63          63
+Salt .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .   14          14
+Spirits of Wine  .     .     .     .     .     .     .   72          72
+Cooking apparatus.     .     .     .     .     .     .   --          20
+Tobacco    .     .     .     .     .     .     .     .   20          20
+Medicine chest                                       .   19          --
+Pannikins, knife, fork, and spoon (14 in each boat)  .    5           5
+Weighing-dials and measures                          .    2           2
+Various small articles for repairs, &c., not mentioned
+above                                                    14          --
+Packages for provisions, clothes, &c                    110         116
+                                                        ----       ----
+                                                    14)3753 1/4    3753 3/4
+
+                    Weight, per man                     268 lbs.
+Exclusive of four sledges, weighing 26 lbs. each.
+
+
+I have not thought it necessary, in the course of this volume, to enter
+into any examination of the question respecting the approaches to the
+North Pole which had already been effected previous to our late attempt.
+I shall, therefore, only add that, after carefully weighing the various
+authorities, from which every individual interested in this matter is at
+liberty to form his own conclusions, my own impartial conviction, at the
+time of our setting out on this enterprise, coincided (with a single
+exception) with the opinion expressed by the Commissioners of Longitude
+in their memorial to the king, that "the progress of discovery had not
+arrived northward, according to any well-authenticated accounts, so far
+as eighty-one degrees of north latitude." The exception to which I
+allude is in favour of Mr. Scoresby, who states his having, in the year
+1806, reached the latitude of 81 deg. 12' 42" by actual observation, and
+81 deg. 30' by dead reckoning. I therefore consider the latter parallel
+as, in all probability, the highest which had ever been attained prior
+to the attempt recorded in the following pages.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+The Hecla being ready to proceed down the river, she was taken in tow,
+at ten A.M. on the 25th of March, 1827, by the Lightning steam-vessel;
+and having received and returned the cheers of the Greenwich pensioners,
+the children of the Naval Asylum, and of various ships in the river, she
+made fast to the moorings at Northfleet at three P.M. The following day
+was occupied in swinging the ship round on the various points of the
+compass, in order to obtain the amount of the deviation of the magnetic
+needle produced by the attraction of the ship's iron, and to fix Mr.
+Barlow's plate for correcting it.[015] On the 3d of April the ship's
+company received three months' wages in advance, together with their
+river-pay; and on the following morning, at half past four, we weighed
+and made sail from the Nore.
+
+We had at this time remarkably fine weather for the season of the year,
+and such a continuance of southerly winds that we arrived off the island
+of Soroe, within which Hammerfest lies, on the 17th, without having had
+occasion to make a tack till we entered the fiord which forms the
+northern entrance.
+
+The wind becoming light from the southward, and very variable, we were
+occupied the whole of the 18th in beating up towards Hammerfest. In the
+evening a Lapland boat came on board, and one of the men undertook to
+pilot the ship to the anchorage, which, after beating all night against
+an ebb tide, we reached at three A.M. on the 19th. Finding that our
+reindeer had not arrived, I immediately despatched Lieutenant Crozier,
+in one of our own boats, to Alten, from whence they were expected--a
+distance of about sixty English miles. At the same time, we landed our
+observatories and instruments at Fugleness, near the establishment of
+Messrs. Crowe and Woodfall, the British merchants residing here; and
+Lieutenant Foster and myself immediately commenced our magnetic and
+other observations, which were continued during the whole of our stay
+here. We completed our supply of water, and obtained a small quantity of
+venison, with abundance of good fish (principally torsk and cod), and
+some milk. We also purchased a set of snow-shoes for our travelling
+party, together with the Lapland shoes of leather (called Kamooga[016]),
+which are the most convenient and comfortable for wearing with them; and
+we practised our people in the manner of walking in them in deep snow,
+which afforded them fine exercise and amusement.
+
+On the 23d, Lieutenant Crozier returned in the boat from Alten, and was
+followed the next day by Mr. Wooodfall, who brought with him eight
+reindeer for our use, together with a supply of moss for their provender
+(_cenomyce rangiferina_). As, however, the latter required a great deal
+of picking, so as to render it fit to carry with us over the ice, and
+as it was also necessary that we should be instructed in the manner of
+managing the deer, I determined on remaining a day or two longer for
+these purposes. Nothing can be more beautiful than the training of the
+Lapland reindeer. With a simple collar of skin round his neck, a single
+trace of the same material attached to the "pulk" or sledge, and passing
+between his legs, and one rein, fastened like a halter about his neck,
+this intelligent and docile animal is perfectly under the command of an
+experienced driver, and performs astonishing journeys over the softest
+snow. When the rein is thrown over on the off side of the animal, he
+immediately sets off at a full, trot, and stops short the instant it is
+thrown back to the near side. Shaking the rein over his back is the only
+whip that is required. In a short time after setting off, they appear to
+be gasping for breath, as if quite exhausted; but, if not driven too
+fast at first, they soon recover this, and then go on without
+difficulty. The quantity of _clean_ moss considered requisite for each
+deer per day is four pounds; but they will go five or six days without
+provender, and not suffer materially. As long as they can pick up snow
+as they go along, which they like to eat quite clean, they require no
+water; and ice is to them a comfortable bed. It may well be imagined,
+with such qualifications, how valuable these animals seemed likely to
+prove to us; and the more we became accustomed, and, I may say, attached
+to them, the more painful became the idea of the necessity which was
+likely to exist, of ultimately having recourse to them as provision for
+ourselves.
+
+Our preparations were completed on the 27th, but the wind continuing
+fresh from the northwestern quarter in the offing, we had no prospect of
+making any progress till the morning of the 29th, when we weighed at six
+A.M.
+
+On the 5th of May, being in latitude 73 deg. 30', and longitude 7 deg.
+28' E., we met with the first straggling mass of ice, after which, in
+sailing about 110 miles in a N.N.W. direction, there was always a number
+of loose masses in sight; but it did not occur in continuous "streams"
+till the morning of the 7th, in latitude 74 deg. 55', a few miles to the
+eastward of the meridian of Greenwich. On the 10th several whalers were
+in sight, and Mr. Bennett, the master of the Venerable, of Hull, whom we
+had before met in Baffin's Bay in 1818, came on board. From him I
+learned that several of the ships had been in the ice since the middle
+of April, some of them having been so far to the westward as the island
+of Jan Mayen, and that they were now endeavouring to push to the
+northward. They considered the ice to offer more obstacles to the
+attainment of this object than it had done for many years past.[017]
+None of the ships had yet taken a single whale, which, indeed, they
+never expect to do to the southward of about 78 deg.
+
+In the afternoon, after waiting for some time for the ice to open, we
+again entered it, in company with all the whalers, and by the following
+morning had succeeded in pushing about fifty miles farther to the
+northward, though not without some heavy blows in "boring" through the
+ice.
+
+At five A.M. on the 14th we passed Magdalena Bay, and by ten o'clock had
+arrived off Hakluyt's Headland, round which we hauled to the
+southeastward, to look, for anchorage in Smerenburg Harbour. In this,
+however, we were disappointed, the whole place being occupied by one
+unbroken floe of ice, still firmly attached to the land on each side.
+Here we made fast, though not without considerable difficulty; the wind,
+which was now freshening from the southward, blowing in such violent and
+irregular gusts off the high land that the ship was scarcely manageable.
+Walruses, dovekies, and eider-ducks were very numerous here, especially
+the former; and four reindeer came down upon the ice near the ship.
+
+We now prepared a quantity of provisions and other stores to land at
+Hakluyt's Headland, as a supply for my party on our return from the
+northward; so that, in case of the ship being obliged to go more to the
+southward, or of our not being able at once to reach her, we should be
+furnished with a few days' resources of every kind. Our intentions were,
+however, frustrated for the present; for we had scarcely secured our
+hawsers, when a hard gale came on from the southward, threatening every
+moment to snap them in two, and drive us from our anchorage. We held on
+for several hours, till, at nine P.M., some swell having set in upon the
+margin of the ice, it began to break off and drift away. Every possible
+exertion was instantly made to shift our stream cable farther in upon
+the floe; but it broke away so quickly as to baffle every endeavour,
+and at ten the ship went adrift, the wind blowing still harder than
+before. Having hauled in the hawsers and got the boats on board, we set
+the close-reefed topsails, to endeavour to hang to windward; but the
+wind blew in such tremendous gusts from the high land as almost to lay
+the ship on her beam-ends; so that we were obliged to reduce our canvass
+to the main topsail and stormsails, and let her drive to leeward.[018]
+The situation of the ship now appeared a very precarious one, the wind
+still blowing with unabated violence, and with every appearance of a
+continuance of stormy weather. Under these circumstances, it was the
+general opinion of the officers, as well as my own, that it was
+advisable to take advantage of the comparatively smooth water within the
+stream of ice, and to run the ship into the pack, rather than incur the
+risk of having to do the same thing in a heavy sea. This plan succeeded
+remarkably well; a tolerably smooth and open part of the margin being
+selected, the ship was forced into it at three A.M., when, after
+encountering a few severe blows from the heavy washed pieces which
+always occur near the sea-edge, she was gradually carried onward under
+all sail, and at four A.M. we got into a perfectly smooth and secure
+situation, half a mile within the margin of a "pack."
+
+It was impossible not to consider ourselves highly fortunate in having
+thus early, and with no great difficulty, succeeded in reaching the
+highest latitude to which it was our object to take the ship. But, from
+what we had already seen at Smerenburg, it was also impossible not to
+feel much anxiety as to the prospect of getting her into any secure
+harbour before the proper time of my departure to the northward should
+arrive. However, we could only wait patiently for the result of a few
+more days; and, in the mean time, everybody was busily employed in
+completing the arrangements for our departure, so that, if an
+opportunity did offer of securing the ship, we might have nothing else
+to attend to. Our deer were in good order, having been thriving well
+ever since they came on board; they make excellent sailors, and do not
+seem to mind bad weather, always lying down quite comfortable whenever
+there is any sea.
+
+In order to try what our chances were, at the present low temperature,
+of procuring water upon the ice without expense of fuel, we laid a black
+painted canvass cloth, and also a piece of black felt, upon the surface
+of the snow; the temperature of the atmosphere being from 18 deg. to 23
+deg. These substances had, in a couple of hours, sunk half an inch into
+the snow, but no water could be collected. I was desirous, also, of
+ascertaining whether any part of the real sea-ice was so entirely fresh
+when melted as to be drunk without injury or inconvenience. For this
+purpose we cut a block of ice from a large hummock, about ten feet high
+above the sea; and having broken, pounded, and melted it, without any
+previous washing, we found it, both by the hydrometer and by the
+chemical test (nitrate of silver), _more_ free from salt than any which
+we had in our tanks, and which was procured from Hammerfest. I
+considered this satisfactory, because, in the autumn, the pools of water
+met with upon the ice generally become very brackish, in consequence of
+the sea-water being drawn up into them by capillary action as the ice
+becomes more "rotten" and porous; and we might, therefore, have to
+depend chiefly on melted ice for our daily supply.
+
+No change took place till the 21st, when, on the weather clearing up, we
+found that the open water we had left to the westward was now wholly
+closed up, and that there was none whatever in sight. It was now also so
+close in-shore, that on the 22d, Lieutenant Ross, with a party of
+officers and men, succeeded in landing without difficulty. They found a
+small floe of level ice close to the beach, which appeared very lately
+formed. Walking up to a little conspicuous eminence near the eastern end
+of the beach, they found it to be composed of clay-slate, tinged of a
+brownish red colour. The few uncovered parts of the beach were strewed
+with smooth schistose fragments of the same mineral, and in some parts a
+quantity of thin slates of it lay closely disposed together in a
+vertical position. On the little hillock were two graves, bearing the
+dates of 1741 and 1762 on some of the stones which marked them, and a
+considerable quantity of fir driftwood lay upon the beach.
+
+I now clearly saw that there was, for the present, no reasonable
+prospect of our getting towards any harbour; and I could not but feel
+confident that, even if we did get to the entrance of any, some time
+must be occupied in securing the ship. It may be well imagined how
+anxious I had now become to delay no longer in setting out upon the
+main object of the expedition. I felt that a few days at the
+commencement of the season, short as it is in these regions, might be of
+great importance as to the result of our enterprise, while the ship
+seemed to be so far secure from any immediate danger as to justify my
+leaving her, with a reduced crew, in her present situation. The nature
+of the ice was, beyond all comparison, the most unfavourable for our
+purpose that I remember to have ever seen. It consisted only of loose
+pieces, scarcely any of them fifteen or twenty yards square; and when
+any so large did occur, their, margins were surrounded by the smaller
+ones, thrown up by the recent pressure into ten thousand various shapes,
+and presenting high and sharp angular masses at every other step. The
+men compared it to a stone-mason's yard, which, except that the stones
+were of ten times the usual dimensions, it indeed very much resembled.
+The only inducement to set out over such a road was the certainty that
+floes and fields lay beyond it, and the hope that they were not _far_
+beyond it. In this respect, indeed, I considered our present easterly
+position as a probable advantage, since the ice was much less likely to
+have been disturbed to any great extent northward in this meridian than
+to the westward clear of the land, where every southerly breeze was sure
+to be making havoc among it. Another very important advantage in setting
+off on this meridian appeared to me to be, that, the land of Spitzbergen
+lying immediately over against the ice, the latter could never drift so
+much or so fast to the southward as it might farther to the westward.
+
+Upon these grounds it was that I was anxious to make an attempt, at
+least, as soon as our arrangements could be completed; and the officers
+being of the same opinion as myself, we hoisted out the boats early in
+the morning of the 27th, and, having put the things into one of them,
+endeavoured, by way of experiment, to get her to a little distance from
+the ship. Such however, were the irregularities of the ice, that, even
+with the assistance of an additional party of men, it was obvious that
+we could not have gained a single mile in a day, and, what was still
+more important, not without almost certain and serious injury to the
+boats by their striking against the angular masses. Under these
+circumstances, it was but too evident to every one that it would have
+been highly imprudent to persist in setting out, since, if the ice,
+after all, should clear away, even in a week, so as to allow us to get a
+few miles nearer the main body, time would be ultimately saved by our
+delay, to say nothing of the wear and tear, and expense of our
+provisions. I was, therefore, very reluctantly compelled to yield to
+this necessity, and to order the things to be got on board again.
+
+Immediately after we had, on the 27th, proved experimentally the extreme
+difficulty of transporting our boats and stores over the ice which now
+surrounded us, I made up my mind to the very great probability there
+seemed to be of the necessity of adopting such alterations in our
+original plans as would accommodate them to these untoward circumstances
+at the outset. The boats forming the main impediment, not so much on
+account of their absolute weight as from the difficulty of managing so
+large a body upon a road of this nature, I made preparations for the
+possible contingency of our having to take only one, continuing the same
+number of men in our whole party. All that I saw reason to apprehend
+from having only a single boat on our outward journey, was some
+occasional delay in ferrying over spaces of water in two trips instead
+of one; but we considered that this would be much more than compensated
+by the increased rate at which we should go whenever we were upon the
+ice, as we expected to be nine days out of ten. The principal
+disadvantage, therefore, consisted in our not all being able to sleep in
+the boat, and this we proposed to obviate in the following manner.
+
+We constructed out of the Lapland snow-shoes fourteen sledges, each
+sledge consisting of two pairs well fastened together. Upon these we
+proposed dragging almost all the weight, so as to keep the boat nearly
+without any cargo in her, as we found by experiment that a man could
+drag about three hundred pounds on one of the sledges with more facility
+than he could drag the boat when his proportion did not exceed one
+hundred pounds. Upon these sledges we proposed lodging half our party
+alternately each night, placing them under the lee of the boat, and then
+stretching over them, as a sloped roof, a second awning, which we fitted
+for the purpose. Upon this plan we likewise could afford to make our
+boat considerably stronger, adding some stout iron knees to the supports
+of her runners, and increasing our store of materials for repairing her.
+The weight reduced by this arrangement would have been above two
+thousand pounds, without taking away any article conducive to our
+comfort, except the boat and her gear. I proposed to the officers and
+men who had been selected to accompany me this change in our equipment;
+and I need scarcely say that they all clearly saw the probable necessity
+of it, and cheerfully acquiesced in its adoption, if requisite.
+
+On the 29th I sent Lieutenants Foster and Crozier, with the greater part
+of the ship's company, and with a third or spare travelling-boat, to
+endeavour to land her on Red Beach, together with a quantity of stores,
+including provisions, as a deposite for us on our return from the
+northward, should it so happen, as was not improbable, that we should
+return to the eastward. It is impossible to describe the labour
+attending this attempt. Suffice it to say, that, after working for
+fourteen hours, they returned on board at midnight, having accomplished
+about four miles out of the six. The next day they returned to the boat,
+and, after several hours' exertion, landed her on the beach with the
+stores. What added to the fatigue of this service was the necessity of
+taking a small boat to cross pools of water on their return, so that
+they had to drag this boat both ways, besides that which they went to
+convey. Having, however, had an opportunity of trying what could be done
+upon a regular and level floe which lay close to the beach, everybody
+was of opinion, as I had always been, that we could easily travel twenty
+miles a day on ice of that kind.
+
+It will not be wondered at if the apparent hopelessness of getting the
+ship free for the present again suggested the necessity of my own
+setting out: and I had once more, on the 1st of June, after an anxious
+consultation with my officers, resolved on making a second attempt, when
+the ice near us, which had opened at regular hours with the tide for
+three or four days past, began to set us much more rapidly than usual to
+the eastward, and towards a low point which runs off from Red Beach,
+near its western end, causing us to shoal the water in a few hours from
+fifty-two to twenty fathoms, and on the following morning to fourteen
+and a half. By sending a lead-line over the ice a few hundred yards
+beyond us, we found ten fathoms water. However unfavourable the aspect
+of our affairs seemed before, this new change could not fail to alter it
+for the worse. The situation of the ship now, indeed, required my whole
+attention; for the ice occasionally opened and shut within twenty or
+twenty-five yards of us on the in-shore side, the ship herself was still
+very firmly imbedded by the turned up masses which pressed upon her on
+the 19th, and which, on the other side, as well as ahead and astern,
+were of considerable extent. Thus she formed, as it were, part of a
+floe, which went drifting about in the manner above described. This was
+of little importance while she was in sixty fathoms of water, as she was
+for the first fourteen days of our besetment, and a distance of five or
+six miles from the land; but now that she had shoaled the water so
+considerably, and approached the low point within two or three miles, it
+became a matter of importance to try whether any labour we could bestow
+upon it would liberate the ship from her present imbedded state, so as
+to be at least ready to take advantage of slack water, should any occur,
+to keep her off the shore. All hands were therefore set to work with
+handspikes, capstan-bars, and axes, it being necessary to detach every
+separate mass, however small, before the larger ones could be moved. The
+harassing and laborious nature of this operation is such as nothing but
+experience can possibly give an idea of, especially when, as in this
+case, we had only a small pool of clear water near the margin in which
+the detached pieces could be floated out. However, we continued at work,
+with only the necessary intermissions for rest and meals, during this
+and the two following days, and on the evening of the 3d had
+accomplished all that the closeness of the ice would permit; but the
+ship was still by no means free, numberless masses of ice being doubled
+under her, even below her keel, which could not be moved without more
+space for working.
+
+Painful as was this protracted delay in setting out upon the principal
+object of the expedition, the absolute necessity of it will scarcely, I
+think, be doubted by any person conversant in such matters. So long as
+the ship continued undisturbed by the ice, nearly stationary, and in
+deep water, for several days together, I had, in my anxiety to lose not
+a moment's time, ventured to flatter myself with the hope that, in a
+case of such unlooked-for emergency, when every moment of our short and
+uncertain season was of importance, I might be justified in quitting my
+ship at sea; and in this opinion the zeal of my officers, both those who
+were to accompany me and those who were to remain on board, induced them
+unanimously to concur. But the case was now materially altered; for it
+had become plain to every seaman in the ship, first, that the safety of
+the Hecla, if thus left with less than half her working hands, could not
+be reckoned upon for an hour; and, secondly, that no human foresight
+could enable us to conjecture, should we set out while she was thus
+situated, when or where we should find her on our return. In fact, it
+appeared to us at this time, as indeed it was, a very providential
+circumstance, that the impracticable nature of the ice for travelling
+had offered no encouragement to persevere in my original intention of
+setting out a week before this time.
+
+For the two following days we continued closely beset, but still driving
+to the eastward across the mouth of Weyde Bay, which is here six or
+seven miles in breadth, and appeared to be very deep, the land in the
+centre receding to a distance of full eight leagues. In the afternoon of
+the 6th, we had driven within five miles of a point of land, beyond
+which, to the eastward, it seemed to recede considerably; and this
+appearing to answer tolerably to the situation of Muscle or Mussel Bay,
+as laid down in most of the charts, I was very anxious to discover
+whether we could here find shelter for the ship. A lane of water leading
+towards the land at no great distance from us, I hauled a boat over the
+ice and then rowed on shore, accompanied by Lieutenant Foster and some
+of the other officers, taking with me another small store of provisions,
+to be deposited here, as a future resource for my party, should we
+approach this part of the coast.
+
+Landing at half past six P.M., and leaving Mr. Bird to bury the
+provisions, Lieutenant Foster and myself walked without delay to the
+eastward, and, on ascending the point, found that there was, as we had
+supposed, an indentation in the coast on the other side. We now began to
+conceive the most flattering hopes of discovering something like a
+harbour for the ship, and pushed on with all possible haste to examine
+the place farther; but, after three hours walking, were much mortified,
+on arriving at its head, to find that it was nothing but an open bay,
+entirely exposed to the inroads of all the northern ice, and therefore
+quite unfit for the ship. We returned to the boat greatly disappointed,
+and reached the Hecla at 1.30 A.M. on the 7th.
+
+I do not remember to have ever experienced in these regions such a
+continuance of beautiful weather as we now had, during more than three
+weeks that we had been on the northern coast of Spitzbergen. Day after
+day we had a clear and cloudless sky, scarcely any wind, and, with the
+exception of a few days previous to the 23d of May, a warm temperature
+in the shade, and quite a scorching sun. On the 3d of June we had a
+shower of rain, and on the 6th it rained pretty hard for two or three
+hours. After the 1st of June we could procure abundance of excellent
+water upon the ice, and by the end of the first week the floe-pieces
+were looking blue with it in some parts, and the snow had everywhere
+become too soft to bear a man's weight.
+
+On the 7th, the ship, still closely beset, had drifted much more to the
+eastward, being within a mile of the spot where the provisions had been
+deposited the preceding evening. There was now no other ice between us
+and the land except the floe to which we had been so long attached; and
+round this we were occasionally obliged to warp, whenever a little
+slackening of the ice permitted, in order to prevent our getting too
+near the rocks. In this situation of suspense and anxiety we still
+remained until the evening of the 8th, when a breeze at length springing
+up from the southward began to open out the ice from the point near
+which we lay. As soon as the channel was three or four hundred yards
+wide, we warped into the clear water, and, making sail, rounded the
+point in safety, having no soundings with twenty fathoms, at one third
+of a mile from a small rocky islet lying off it. In the mean time the
+wind had been driving the ice so fast off the land as to form for us a
+clear communication with the open water before seen to the eastward; and
+thus we were at length liberated from our confinement, after a close and
+tedious "besetment" of twenty-four days.
+
+The weather continued so thick, that, impatient as we were to stand in
+towards the eastern land, we could not venture to do so till eleven A.M.
+on the 10th, when we made sail towards Brandywine Bay, the wind being
+now from the W.S.W., or nearly dead upon that shore. The weather
+clearing up at 1.15 P.M., we saw the eastern land, and soon after
+discovered the grounded ice off Low Island; Walden's Island was also
+plainly in sight to the N.E. The bay seemed deeply indented, and very
+likely to afford nooks such as we wanted; and where so large a space of
+open water, and, consequently, some sea, had been exerting its influence
+for a considerable time, we flattered ourselves with the most sanguine
+hopes of now having access to the shores, sufficiently near, at least,
+for sawing into some place of shelter. How, then, shall I express our
+surprise and mortification in finding that the whole of the coast, from
+the islands northward to Black Point, and apparently also as far as
+Walden's Island, was rendered inaccessible by one continuous and heavy
+floe, everywhere attached to the shores, and to the numberless grounded
+masses about the island, this immense barrier being in some places six
+or seven miles in width, and not less than twelve feet in thickness near
+the margin.
+
+The prospect from our masthead at this time was certainly enough to cast
+a damp over every sanguine expectation I had formed, of being _soon_
+enabled to place the Hecla in security; and more willingly than ever
+would I, at this period, have persuaded myself, if possible, that I
+should be justified in quitting her at sea. Such, however, was the
+nature of this navigation, as regarded the combined difficulties arising
+from ice and a large extent of shoal and unsurveyed ground, that, even
+with our full complement of officers and men on board, all our strength
+and exertions might scarcely have sufficed, in a single gale of wind, to
+keep the ship tolerably secure, and much less could I have ensured
+placing her ultimately in any proper situation for picking up an absent
+party; for, if once again beset, she must, of course, be at the mercy of
+the ice. The conclusion was, therefore, irresistibly forced upon my
+mind, that thus to leave the ship would be to expose her to imminent and
+certain peril, rendering it impossible to conjecture where we should
+find her on our return, and, therefore, rashly to place all parties in a
+situation from which nothing but disaster could reasonably be expected
+to ensue.
+
+After beating through much ice, which was all of the drift or broken
+kind, and had all found its way hither in the last two days, we got into
+an open space of water in-shore, and about six miles to the northward of
+Low Island; and on the morning of the 13th stretched in towards Walden
+Island, around which we found, as we had feared, a considerable quantity
+of fixed ice. It was certainly much less here, than elsewhere; but the
+inner, or eastern side of the island was entirely enveloped by it.
+
+Having from twenty-six to twenty-four fathoms at the distance of four
+miles from Walden Island, I was preparing two boats, with the intention
+of going to sound about its northern point, which was the most clear of
+ice, and not without a faint hope of finding something like shelter
+there; but I was prevented by a thick fog coming on. Continuing,
+therefore, to beat to the northward, we passed occasionally a good deal
+of drift ice, but with every appearance of much clear water in that
+direction; and the weather clearing about midnight, we observed in
+latitude 80 deg.43'32". The Seven Islands were in sight to the eastward,
+and the "Little Table Island" of Phipps bore E.N.E. (true) distant about
+nine or ten miles. It is a mere craggy rock, rising, perhaps, from four
+to five hundred feet above the level of the sea, and with a small low
+islet lying off its northern end. This island, being the northernmost
+known land in the world, naturally excited much of our curiosity; and
+bleak, and barren, and rugged as it is, one could not help gazing at it
+with intense interest.
+
+At midnight on the 14th we had reached the latitude 81 deg.5'32" Our
+longitude by chronometers at this time was 19 deg. 34' E., Little Table
+Island bearing S. 26 deg. E. (true), distant six or seven leagues, and
+Walden Island S. 4 deg. E.[019] The depth of water was ninety-seven
+fathoms, on a bottom of greenish mud; and the temperature at ninety-five
+fathoms, by Six's thermometer, was 29.8 deg., that at the surface being
+31 deg., and of the air 28 deg. All that could here be seen to the
+northward was loose drift-ice. To the northeast it was particularly
+open, and I have no doubt that we might have gone many miles farther in
+that direction, had it not been a much more important object to keep the
+ship free than to push her to the northward.
+
+We now stood back again to the southward, in order again to examine the
+coast wherever we could approach it; but found, on the 15th, that none
+of the land was at all accessible, the wind having got round to the
+W.N.W., and loaded all the shores with drift-ice.
+
+Walden Island being the first part clear of the loose ice, we stretched
+in for it on the 16th, and, when within two miles, observed that about
+half that space was occupied by land-ice, even on its northwestern side,
+which was the only accessible one, the rest being wholly enclosed by it.
+However, being desirous of obtaining a better view than our crow's-nest
+commanded, and also of depositing here a small quantity of provisions,
+I left the ship at one P.M., accompanied by Lieutenant Foster in a
+second boat, and, landing upon the ice, walked over about three quarters
+of a mile of high and rugged hummocks to the shore. Ascending two or
+three hundred feet, we had a clear and extensive view of the Seven
+Islands, and of some land far beyond them to the eastward; and the whole
+sea was covered with one unbroken land-floe, attached to all the shores
+extending from the island where we stood, and which formed an abutment
+for it each way along the land as far as the eye could reach. After this
+discouraging prospect, which wholly destroyed every hope of finding a
+harbour among the Seven Islands, we returned to the place where the men
+had deposited the provisions, and, after making the necessary
+observations for the survey, returned immediately on board.
+
+Observing from the island that the sea was perfectly clear to the
+northward, we now stood for Little Table Island, with some slight hope
+that the rock off its northern end might afford shelter for the ship; at
+all events, being the most exposed, on account of its situation, it was
+the most likely to be free from ice. A thick fog prevented our getting
+near it till the morning of the 17th, when, having approached it within
+a mile and a half, I sent Lieutenant Ross on shore to a little islet,
+which was quite free from ice, where he deposited another small store of
+provisions, but found nothing like shelter for the ship.
+
+Having no farther business here, and the easterly wind still continuing,
+I thought the best thing we could do would be to run again to the
+southward of Low Island, and try once more to approach the shores about
+the entrance of the Waygatz Strait. We therefore bore up under all sail
+to the southwest.
+
+It would be vain to deny that I had lately begun to entertain the most
+serious apprehensions as related to the accomplishment of our principal
+object. The 17th of June had now arrived, and all that we saw afforded
+us the most discouraging prospect as to our getting the Hecla into
+harbour; while every day's experience showed how utterly rash a measure
+it would be to think of quitting her in her present situation, which,
+even with all her officers and men, was one of extreme precariousness
+and uncertainty.
+
+On the evening of the 18th, while standing in for the high land to the
+eastward of Verlegen Hook, which, with due attention to the lead, may be
+approached with safety, we perceived from the crow's-nest what appeared
+a low point, possibly affording some shelter for the ship, and which
+seemed to answer to an indentation of the coast laid down in an old
+Dutch chart, and there called _Treurenburg Bay_.
+
+On the following morning I proceeded to examine the place, accompanied
+by Lieutenant Ross in a second boat, and, to our great joy, found it a
+considerable bay, with one part affording excellent landlocked anchorage
+and, what was equally fortunate, sufficiently clear of ice to allow the
+ship to enter. Having sounded the entrance and determined on the
+anchorage, we returned to the ship to bring her in; and I cannot
+describe the satisfaction which the information of our success
+communicated to every individual on board. The main object of our
+enterprise now appeared almost within our grasp, and everybody seemed
+anxious to make up, by renewed exertions, for the time we had
+unavoidably lost. The ship was towed and warped in with the greatest
+alacrity, and at 1.40 A.M. on June 20th, we dropped the anchor in Hecla
+Cove, in thirteen fathoms, on a bottom of very tenacious blue clay, and
+made some hawsers fast to the land-ice, which still filled all the upper
+part of the bay. After resting a few hours, we sawed a canal a quarter
+of a mile in length, through which the ship was removed into a better
+situation, a bower-cable taken on shore and secured to the rocks, and an
+anchor, with the chain-cable, laid out the other way. On the morning of
+the 21st we hauled the launch up on the beach, it being my intention to
+direct such resources of every kind to be landed as would render our
+party wholly independent of the ship, either for returning to England or
+for wintering, in case of the ship being driven to sea by the ice; a
+contingency against which, in these regions, no precaution can
+altogether provide. I directed Lieutenant Foster, upon whom the charge
+of the Hecla was now to devolve, to land without delay the necessary
+stores, keeping the ship seaworthy by taking in an equal quantity of
+ballast; and, as soon as he should be satisfied of her security from
+ice, to proceed on the survey of the eastern coast; but, should he see
+reason to doubt her safety with a still farther diminution of her crew
+to relinquish the survey, and attend exclusively to the ship. I also
+gave directions that notices should be sent, in the course of the
+summer, to the various stations where our depots of provisions were
+established, acquainting me with the situation and state of the ship,
+and giving me any other information which might be necessary for my
+guidance on our return from the northward. These and other arrangements
+being completed, I left the ship at five P.M. with our two boats, which
+we named the Enterprise and Endeavour, Mr. Beverly being attached to my
+own, and Lieutenant Ross, accompanied by Mr. Bird, in the other. Besides
+these, I took Lieutenant Crozier in one of the ship's cutters, for the
+purpose of carrying some of our weight as far as Walden Island, and also
+a third store of provisions to be deposited on Low Island, as an
+intermediate station between Walden Island and the ship. As it was still
+necessary not to delay our return beyond the end of August, the time
+originally intended, I took, with me only seventy-one days provisions;
+which, including the boats and every other article, made up a weight of
+268 lbs. per man; and as it appeared highly improbable, from what we had
+seen of the very rugged nature of the ice we should first have to
+encounter, that either the reindeer, the snow-shoes, or the wheels would
+prove of any service for some time to come, I gave up the idea of taking
+them. We, however, constructed out of the snow-shoes four excellent
+sledges for dragging a part of our baggage over the ice; and these
+proved of invaluable service to us, while the rest of the things just
+mentioned would only have been an encumbrance.
+
+Having received the usual salutation of three cheers from those we left
+behind, we paddled through a quantity of loose ice at the entrance of
+the bay, and then steered, in a perfectly open sea, and with calm and
+beautiful weather, for the western part of Low Island, which we reached
+at half past two on the morning of the 22d.
+
+Having deposited the provisions, we set off at four A.M., paddling watch
+and watch, to give the people a little rest. It was still quite calm;
+but there being much ice about the island, and a thick fog coming on, we
+were several hours groping our way clear of it. The walruses were here
+very numerous, lying in herds upon the ice, and plunging into the water
+to follow us as we passed. The sound they utter is something between
+bellowing and very loud snorting, which, together with their grim,
+bearded countenances and long tusks, makes them appear, as indeed they
+are, rather formidable enemies to contend with. Under our present
+circumstances, we were very well satisfied not to molest them, for they
+would soon have destroyed our boats if one had been wounded; but I
+believe they are never the first to make the attack. We landed upon the
+ice still attached to Walden Island at 3.30 A.M. on the 23d. Our
+flat-bottomed boats rowed heavily with their loads, but proved perfectly
+safe, and very comfortable. The men being much fatigued, we rested here
+some hours, and, after making our final arrangements with Lieutenant
+Crozier, parted with him at three in the afternoon, and set off for
+Little Table Island. Finding there was likely to be so much open water
+in this neighbourhood in the autumn, I sent directions to Lieutenant
+Foster to have a spare boat deposited at Walden Island in time for our
+return, in case of any accident happening to ours.
+
+The land-ice, which still adhered to the Seven Islands, was very little
+more broken off than when the Hecla had been here a week before; and we
+rowed along its margin a part of the way to Little Table Island, where
+we arrived at ten P.M. We here examined and re-secured the provisions
+left on shore, having found our depot at Walden Island disturbed by the
+bears. The prospect to the northward at this time was very favourable,
+there being only a small quantity of loose ice in sight; and the weather
+still continuing calm and clear, with the sea as smooth as a mirror, we
+set off without delay, at half past ten, taking our final leave of the
+Spitzbergen shores, as we hoped, for at least two months. Steering due
+north, we made good progress, our latitude by the sun's meridian
+altitude at midnight being 80 deg. 51' 13". A beautifully-coloured rainbow
+appeared for some time, without any appearance of rain falling. We
+observed that a considerable current was setting us to the eastward just
+after leaving the land, so that we had made a N.N.E. course, distance
+about ten miles, when we met with some ice, which soon becoming too
+close for farther progress, we landed upon a high hummock to obtain a
+better view. We here perceived that the ice was close to the northward,
+but to the westward we discovered some open water, which we reached
+after two or three hours' paddling, and found it a wide expanse, in
+which we sailed to the northward without obstruction, a fresh breeze
+having sprung up from the S.W. The weather soon after became very thick,
+with continued snow, requiring great care in looking out for the ice,
+which made its appearance after two hours' run, and gradually became
+closer, till at length we were stopped by it at noon, and obliged to
+haul the boats upon a small floe-piece, our latitude by observation
+being 81 deg. 12' 51".
+
+Our plan of travelling being nearly the same throughout this excursion,
+after we first entered upon the ice, I may at once give some account of
+our usual mode of proceeding. It was my intention to travel wholly at
+night, and to rest by day, there being, of course, constant daylight in
+these regions during the summer season. The advantages of this plan,
+which was occasionally deranged by circumstances, consisted, first, in
+our avoiding the intense and oppressive glare from the snow during the
+time of the sun's greatest altitude, so as to prevent, in some degree,
+the painful inflammation in the eyes called "snow blindness," which is
+common in all snowy countries. We also thus enjoyed greater warmth
+during the hours of rest, and had a better chance of drying our clothes;
+besides which, no small advantage was derived from the snow being harder
+at night for travelling. The only disadvantage of this plan was, that
+the fogs were somewhat more thick by night than by day, though even in
+this respect there was less difference than might have been supposed,
+the temperature during the twenty-four hours undergoing but little
+variation. This travelling by night and sleeping by day so completely
+inverted the natural order of things, that it was difficult to persuade
+ourselves of the reality. Even the officers and myself, who were all
+furnished with pocket chronometers, could not always bear in mind at
+what part of the twenty-four hours we had arrived; and there were
+several of the men who declared, and I believe truly, that they, never
+knew night from day during the whole excursion.[020]
+
+When we rose in the evening, we commenced our day by prayers, after
+which we took off our fur sleeping-dresses and put on those for
+travelling; the former being made of camlet, lined with racoon-skin, and
+the latter of strong blue box-cloth. We made a point of always putting
+on the same stockings and boots for travelling in, whether they dried
+during the day or not; and I believe it was only in five or six
+instances, at the most, that they were not either wet or hard-frozen.
+This, indeed, was of no consequence, beyond the discomforture of first
+putting them on in this state, as they were sure to be thoroughly wet in
+a quarter of an hour after commencing our journey; while, on the other
+hand, it was of vital importance to keep dry things for sleeping in.
+Being "rigged" for travelling, we breakfasted upon warm cocoa and
+biscuit, and, after stowing the things in the boats and on the sledges,
+so as to secure them as much as possible from wet, we set off on our
+day's journey, and usually travelled from five to five and a half hours,
+then stopped an hour to dine, and again travelled four, five, or even
+six hours, according to circumstances. After this we halted for the
+night, as we called it, though it was usually early in the morning,
+selecting the largest surface of ice we happened to be near for hauling
+the boats on, in order to avoid the danger of its breaking up by coming
+in contact with other masses, and also to prevent drift as much as
+possible. The boats were placed close alongside each other, with their
+sterns to the wind, the snow or wet cleared out of them, and the sails,
+supported by the bamboo masts and three paddles, placed over them as
+awnings, an entrance being left at the bow. Every man then immediately
+put on dry stockings and fur boots, after which we set about the
+necessary repairs of boats, sledges, or clothes; and, after serving the
+provisions for the succeeding day, we went to supper. Most of the
+officers and men then smoked their pipes, which served to dry the boats
+and awnings very much, and usually raised the temperature of our
+lodgings 10 deg. or 15 deg. This part of the twenty-four hours was
+often a time, and the only one, of real enjoyment to us; the men told
+their stories and "fought all their battles o'er again," and the labours
+of the day, unsuccessful as they too often were, were forgotten. A
+regular watch was set during our resting-time, to look out for bears or
+for the ice breaking up round us, as well as to attend to the drying of
+the clothes, each man alternately, taking this duty for one hour. We
+then concluded our day with prayers, and, having put on our fur-dresses,
+lay down to sleep with a degree of comfort, which perhaps few persons
+would imagine possible under such circumstances; our chief inconvenience
+being that we were somewhat pinched for room, and therefore obliged to
+stow rather closer than was quite agreeable. The temperature, while we
+slept, was usually from 36 deg. to 45 deg., according to the state of
+the external atmosphere; but on one or two occasions in calm and warm
+weather, it rose as high as 60 deg. to 66 deg., obliging us to throw off
+a part of our fur-dress. After we had slept seven hours, the man
+appointed to boil the cocoa roused us when it was ready by the sound of
+a bugle, when we commenced our day in the manner before described.
+
+Our allowance of provisions for each man per day was as follows:
+
+
+Biscuit                 10 ounces.
+Pemmican                 9 ounces.
+Sweetened Cocoa Powder   1 ounce, to make one pint.
+Rum                      1 gill.
+Tobacco                  3 ounces per week.
+
+
+Our fuel consisted entirely of spirits of wine, of which two pints
+formed our daily allowance, the cocoa being cooked in an iron boiler
+over a shallow iron lamp, with seven wicks; a simple apparatus, which
+answered our purpose remarkably well. We usually found one pint of the
+spirits of wine sufficient for preparing our breakfast, that is, for
+heating twenty-eight pints of water, though it always commenced from the
+temperature of 32 deg. If the weather was calm and fair, this quantity of
+fuel brought it to the boiling point in about an hour and a quarter; but
+more generally the wicks began to go out before it had reached. 200 deg.
+This, however, made a very comfortable meal to persons situated as we
+were. Such, with very little variation, was our regular routine during
+the whole of this excursion.
+
+We set off on our first journey over the ice at ten P.M. on the 24th,
+Table Island bearing S.S.W., and a fresh breeze blowing from W.S.W.,
+with thick fog, which afterward changed to rain. The bags of pemmican
+were placed upon the sledges, and the bread in the boats, with the
+intention of securing the latter from wet; but this plan we were soon
+obliged to relinquish. We now commenced upon very slow and laborious
+travelling, the pieces of ice being of small extent and very rugged,
+obliging us to make three journeys, and sometimes four, with the boats
+and baggage, and to launch several times across narrow pools of water.
+We stopped to dine at five A.M. on the 25th, having made, by our log
+(which we kept very carefully, marking the courses by compass, and
+estimating the distances), about two miles and a half of northing; and,
+again setting forward, proceeded till eleven A.M., when we halted to
+rest; our latitude, by observation at noon, being 81 deg. 15' 13".
+
+Setting out again at half past nine in the evening, we found our way to
+lie over nothing but small, loose, rugged masses of ice, separated by
+little pools of water, obliging us constantly to launch and haul up the
+boats, each of which operations required them to be unloaded, and
+occupied nearly a quarter of an hour. It came on to rain very hard on
+the morning of the 26th; and, finding we were making very little
+progress (having advanced not more than half a mile in four hours), and
+that our clothes would be soon wet through, we halted at half past one,
+and took shelter under the awnings. The weather improving at six
+o'clock, we again moved forward, and travelled till a quarter past
+eleven, when we hauled the boats upon the only tolerably large
+floe-piece in sight. The rain had very much increased the quantity of
+water lying upon the ice, of which nearly half the surface was now
+covered with numberless little ponds of various shapes and extent. It is
+a remarkable fact, that we had already experienced, in the course of
+this summer, more rain than during the whole of seven previous summers
+taken together, though passed in latitudes from 7 deg. to 15 deg. lower
+than this. A great deal of the ice over which we passed to-day presented
+a very curious appearance and structure, being composed, on its upper
+surface, of numberless irregular, needle-like crystals, placed
+vertically, and nearly close together; their length varying, in
+different pieces of ice, from five to ten inches, and their breadth in
+the middle about half an inch, but pointed at both ends. The upper
+surface of ice having this structure sometimes looks like greenish
+velvet; a vertical section of it, which frequently occurs at the margin
+of floes, resembles, while it remains compact, the most beautiful
+satin-spar, and asbestos when falling to pieces. At this early part of
+the season, this kind of ice afforded pretty firm footing; but, as the
+summer advanced, the needles became more loose and moveable, rendering
+it extremely fatiguing to walk over them, besides cutting our boots and
+feet, on which account the men called them "penknives."
+
+We pursued our journey at half past nine P.M., with the wind at N.E.,
+and thick weather, the ice being so much in motion as to make it very
+dangerous to cross in loaded boats, the masses being all very small. On
+this account we halted at midnight, having waded three quarters of a
+mile through water from two to five inches deep upon the ice. The
+thermometer was at 33 deg.
+
+At seven A.M. on the 28th, we came to a floe covered with high and
+rugged hummocks, which opposed a formidable obstacle to our progress,
+occurring in two or three successive tiers, so that we had no sooner
+crossed one than another presented itself. Over one of these we hauled
+the boats with extreme difficulty by a "standing pull," and the weather
+being then so thick that we could see no pass across the next tier, we
+were obliged to stop at nine A.M. While performing this laborious work,
+which required the boats to be got up and down places almost
+perpendicular, James Parker, my coxswain, received a severe contusion in
+his back, by the boat falling upon him from a hummock, and the boats
+were constantly subject to very heavy blows, but sustained no
+damage.[021] The weather continued very foggy during the day, but a
+small lane of water opening out at no great distance from the margin of
+the floe, we launched the boats at eight in the evening among loose
+drift-ice, and, after some time, landed on a small floe to the eastward,
+the only one in sight, with the hope of its leading to the northward. It
+proved so rugged that we were obliged to make three, and sometimes four
+journeys with the boats and provisions, and this by a very circuitous
+route; so that the road, by which we made a mile of northing, was full a
+mile and a half in length, and over this we had to travel at least five,
+and sometimes seven times. Thus, when we halted to dine at two A.M.,
+after six hours' severe toil, and much risk to the men and boats, we had
+only accomplished about a mile and a quarter in a N.N.E. direction.
+After dining we proceeded again till half past six, and then halted,
+very much fatigued with our day's work, and having made two miles and a
+half of northing. We were here in latitude, by account, 81 deg. 23", and
+in longitude, by the chronometers, 21 deg. 32' 34" E., in which
+situation the variation of the magnetic needle was observed to be 15
+deg. 31' westerly. We now enjoyed the first sunshine since our entering
+the ice, and a great enjoyment it was, after so much thick and wet
+weather. We rose at half past four P.M., in the hopes of pursuing our
+journey; but, after hauling the boats to the edge of the floe, found
+such a quantity of loose, rugged ice to the northward of us, that there
+was no possibility, for the present, of getting across or through it.
+Observing a small opening at 10.30 P.M., we launched the boats, and
+hauled them across several pieces of ice, some of them being very light
+and much decayed. Our latitude, by the sun's meridian altitude at
+midnight, was 81 deg. 23'; so that we had made only eight miles of
+northing since our last observation at noon on the 25th.
+
+The 30th commenced with snowy and inclement weather, which soon rendered
+the atmosphere so thick that we could no longer see our way, obliging us
+to halt till two P.M., when we crossed several small pools with great
+labour and loss of time. We had generally very light ice this day, with
+some heavy, rugged pieces intermixed; and, when hauling across these, we
+had sometimes to cut with axes a passage for the boats among the
+hummocks. We also dragged them through a great many pools of fresh
+water, to avoid the necessity of going round them. The wind freshening
+up from the S.S.W., we afterward found the ice gradually more and more
+open, so that, in the course of the day, we made by rowing, though by a
+very winding channel, five miles of northing; but were again stopped by
+the ice soon after midnight, and obliged to haul up on the first mass
+that we could gain, the ice having so much motion that we narrowly
+escaped being "nipped." We set out at 11.30 A.M. on the 1st July, the
+wind still fresh from the S.W., and some snow falling: but it was more
+than an hour before we could get away from the small pieces of ice on
+which we slept, the masses beyond being so broken up and so much in
+motion, that we could not, at first, venture to launch the boats. Our
+latitude, observed at noon, was 81 deg. 30' 41". After crossing several
+pieces, we at length got into a good "lead" of water, four or five miles
+in length; two or three of which, as on the preceding day, occurred
+under the lee of a floe, being the second we had yet seen that deserved
+that name. We then passed over four or five small floes, and across the
+pools of water that lay between them. The ice was now less broken up,
+and sometimes tolerably level; but from six to eighteen inches of soft
+snow lay upon it in every part, making the travelling very fatiguing,
+and obliging us to make at least two, and sometimes three, journeys
+with our loads. We now found it absolutely necessary to lighten the boat
+as much as possible, by putting the bread-bags on the sledges, on
+account of the "runners" of the boats sinking so much deeper into the
+snow; but our bread ran a great risk of being wetted by this plan.
+
+We halted at eleven P.M. on the 1st, having traversed from ten to eleven
+miles, and made good, by our account, seven and half in a N.b.W.
+direction. We again set forward at ten A.M. on the 2d, the weather being
+calm, and the sun oppressively warm, though with a thick fog. The
+temperature in the shade was 35 deg. at noon, and only 47 deg. in the
+sun; but this, together with the glare from the snow, produced so
+painful a sensation in most of our eyes, as to make it necessary to halt
+at one P.M., to avoid being blinded. We therefore took advantage of this
+warm weather to let the men wash themselves, and mend and dry their
+clothes, and then set out again at half past three. The snow was,
+however, so soft as to take us up to our knees at almost every other
+step, and frequently still deeper; so that we were sometimes five
+minutes together in moving a single empty boat, with all our united
+strength. It being impossible to proceed under these circumstances, I
+determined to fall into our night-travelling again, from which we had of
+late insensibly deviated. We therefore halted at half past five, the
+weather being now very clear and warm, and many of the people's eyes
+beginning to fail. We did not set out again till after midnight, with
+the intention of giving the snow time to harden after so warm a day; but
+we found it still so soft as to make the travelling very fatiguing. Our
+way lay at first across a number of loose pieces, most of which were
+from five to twenty yards apart, or just sufficiently separated to give
+us all the labour of launching and hauling up the boats, without the
+advantage of making any progress by water; while we crossed, in other
+instances, from mass to mass, by laying the boats over as bridges, by
+which the men and the baggage passed. By these means, we at length
+reached a floe about a mile in length, in a northern direction; but it
+would be difficult to convey an adequate idea of the labour required to
+traverse it. The average depth of snow upon the level parts was about
+five inches, under which lay water four or five inches deep; but, the
+moment we approached a hummock, the depth to which we sank increased to
+three feet or more, rendering it difficult at times to obtain sufficient
+footing for one leg to enable us to extricate the other. The pools of
+fresh water had now also become very large, some of them being a quarter
+of a mile in length, and their depth above our knees. Through these we
+were prevented taking the sledges, for fear of wetting all our
+provisions; but we preferred transporting the boats across them,
+notwithstanding the severe cold of the snow-water, the bottom being
+harder for the "runners" to slide upon. On this kind of road we were, in
+one instance, above two hours in proceeding a distance of one hundred
+yards.
+
+We halted at half past six A.M. to dine; and to empty our boots and
+wring our stockings, which, to our feelings, was almost like putting on
+dry ones; and again set out in an hour, getting at length into a "lane"
+of water a mile and a quarter long, in a N.N.E. direction. We halted for
+the night at half an hour before midnight, the people being almost
+exhausted with a laborious day's work, and our distance made good to the
+northward not exceeding two miles and a quarter. We allowed ourselves
+this night a hot supper, consisting of a pint of soup per man, made of
+an ounce of pemmican each, and eight or ten birds, which we had killed
+in the course of the last week; and this was a luxury which persons thus
+situated could perhaps alone duly appreciate.
+
+We rose and breakfasted at nine P.M.; but the weather had gradually
+become so inclement and thick, with snow, sleet, and a fresh breeze from
+the eastward, that we could neither have seen our way, nor have avoided
+getting wet through had we moved. We therefore remained under cover; and
+it was as well that we did so, for the snow soon after changed to heavy
+rain, and the wind increased to a fresh gale, which unavoidably detained
+us till 7.30 P.M. on the 4th. The rain had produced even a greater
+effect than the sun in softening the snow. Lieutenant Ross and myself,
+in performing our pioneering duty, were frequently so beset in it, that
+sometimes, after trying in vain to extricate our legs, we were obliged
+to sit quietly down for a short time to rest ourselves and then make
+another attempt; and the men, in dragging the sledges, were often under
+the necessity of crawling upon all-fours to make any progress at all.
+Nor would any kind of snow-shoes have been of the least service, but
+rather an encumbrance to us, for the surface was so irregular, that they
+would have thrown us down at every other step. We had hitherto made use
+of the Lapland shoes, or _kamoogas_, for walking in, which are excellent
+for dry snow; but there being now so much water upon the ice, we
+substituted the Esquimaux boots, which had been made in Greenland
+expressly for our use, and which are far superior to any others for this
+kind of travelling. Just before halting, at six A.M. on the 5th, the ice
+at the margin of the floe broke while the men were handing the
+provisions out of the boats; and we narrowly escaped the loss of a bag
+of cocoa, which fell overboard, but fortunately rested on a "tongue."
+The bag being made of Mackintosh's waterproof canvass, the cocoa did not
+suffer the slightest injury.
+
+We rose at five P.M., the weather being clear and fine, with a moderate
+breeze from the south; no land was in sight from the highest hummocks,
+nor could we perceive anything but broken loose ice in any direction. We
+hauled across several pieces which were scarcely fit to bear the weight
+of the boats, and in such cases used the precaution of dividing our
+baggage, so that, in case of the ice breaking or turning over, we should
+not lose all at once. The farther we proceeded, the more the ice was
+broken; indeed, it was much more so here than we had found it since
+first entering the "pack." After stopping at midnight to dine and to
+obtain the meridian altitude, we passed over a floe full of hummocks, a
+mile and a half in length; but any kind of floe was relief to us after
+the constant difficulty we had experienced in passing over loose ice.
+
+After several hours of very beautiful weather, a thick fog came on
+early on the morning of the 6th July, and at five A.M. we halted, having
+got to the end of the floe, and only made good two miles and a half to
+the northward. The fog continued very thick all day; but, being
+unwilling to stop on this account, we set out again at half past six in
+the evening, and passed over several small flat pieces with no great
+difficulty, but with much loss of time in launching and hauling up the
+boats. Towards the end of our day's journey, we landed on the only
+really level floe we had yet met with. It was, however, only three
+quarters of a mile in length, but, being almost clear of snow, afforded
+such good travelling, that, although much fatigued at the time, we
+hauled the boats and all the baggage across it at one journey, at the
+rate of about two miles an hour, and halted at the northern margin at
+five A.M. on the 7th. The prospect beyond was still very unfavourable,
+and at eight in the evening, when we again launched the boats, there was
+not a piece of large or level ice to be seen in a northern direction.
+
+We halted at six A.M. on the 8th, in time to avoid a great deal of rain
+which fell during the day, and again proceeded on our journey at eight
+in the evening, the wind being fresh from the E.S.E., with thick, wet
+weather. We now met with detached ice of a still lighter kind than
+before, the only floe in sight being much to the eastward of our course.
+This we reached after considerable labour, in the hope of its leading to
+the northward, which it did for about one mile, and we then came to the
+same kind of loose ice as before. On the morning of the 9th July, we
+enjoyed the indescribable comfort of two or three hours' clear, dry
+weather, but had scarcely hung up our wet clothes, after halting at five
+A.M., when it again came on to rain; but, as everything was as wet as it
+could be, we left them out to take their chance. The rain continued most
+of the day, but we set out at half past seven P.M., crossing loose ice,
+as usual, and much of the surface consisting of detached vertical
+needles. After an hour, the rain became so heavy that we halted to save
+our shirts, which were the only dry clothes' belonging to us. Soon after
+midnight, the rain being succeeded by one of the thickest fogs I ever
+saw, we again proceeded, groping our way almost yard by yard from one
+small piece of ice to another, and were very fortunate in hitting upon
+some with level surfaces, and also a few tolerable-sized holes of water.
+At half past two we reached a floe which appeared at first a level and
+large one; but, on landing, we were much mortified to find it so covered
+with immense ponds, or, rather, small lakes of fresh water, that, to
+accomplish two miles in a north direction, we were under the necessity
+of walking from three to four, the water being too deep for wading, and
+from two hundred yards to one third of a mile in length. We halted at
+six A.M., having made only one mile and three quarters in a N.N.W.
+direction, the wind still blowing fresh from the eastward, with a thick
+fog. We were in latitude 82 deg. 3' 19", and longitude, by chronometers,
+23 deg. 17' E., and we found the variation of the magnetic needle to be
+13 deg. 41' westerly. We moved again at seven P.M., with the weather
+nearly as foggy as before, our road lying across a very hummocky floe,
+on which we had considerable difficulty in getting the boats, the ice
+being extremely unfavourable both for launching and hauling them up.
+After stopping an hour at midnight to dine, we were again annoyed by a
+heavy fall of rain, a phenomenon almost as new to us in these regions
+until this summer, as it was harassing and unhealthy. Being anxious,
+however, to take advantage of a lane of water that seemed to lead
+northerly, we launched the boats, and by the time that we had crossed
+it, which gave us only half a mile of northing, the rain had become much
+harder, and our outer clothes, bread bags, and boats were thoroughly
+wet. After this we had better travelling on the ice, and also crossed
+one or two larger holes of water than we had met with for a long time,
+and halted for our night's rest at half past seven A.M., after nearly
+twelve hours' hard, but not altogether unsuccessful labour, having
+traversed about twelve miles, and made good by our account, seven and a
+half, in a N.W.b.N. direction. The rain ceased soon after we had halted,
+but was succeeded, by a thick, wet fog, which obliged us, when we
+continued our journey, to put on our travelling clothes in the same
+dripping state as when we took them off. The wind continued fresh from
+the southeastward, and at nine P.M. the weather suddenly cleared up, and
+gave us once more the inconceivably cheering, I had almost said the
+blessed, sight of a blue sky, with hard, well-defined white clouds
+floating across it. We halted at six A.M., after making, by our day's
+exertions, only three miles and a half of northing, our latitude at this
+time being 82 deg. 14' 28", and our longitude, by chronometers, 22 deg.
+4' E. The thermometer was from 35 deg. to 36 deg. in the shade during
+most of the day, and this, with a clear sky over head, was now absolute
+luxury to us. Setting out again at seven P.M., we crossed a small lane
+of water to another floe; but this was so intersected by ponds, and by
+streams running into the sea, that we had to make a very circuitous
+route, some of the ponds being half-a mile in length. Notwithstanding
+the immense quantity of water still upon the ice, and which always
+afforded us a pure and abundant supply of this indispensable article, we
+now observed a mark round the banks of all the ponds, showing that the
+water was less deep in them, by several inches, than it had been
+somewhat earlier in the summer; and, indeed, from about this time, some
+small diminution in its quantity began to be perceptible to ourselves.
+We halted for our resting-time at six A.M. on the 13th, having gained
+only two miles and a half of northing, over a road of about four, and
+this accomplished by ten hours of fatiguing exertion. We were here in
+latitude, by the noon observation, 82 deg. 17' 10", and could find no
+bottom with four hundred fathoms of line. We launched the boats at seven
+in the evening, the wind being moderate from the E.S.E., with fine,
+clear weather, and were still mortified in finding that no improvement
+took place in the road over which we had to travel; for the ice now
+before us was, if possible, more broken up and more difficult to pass
+over than ever. Much of it was also so thin as to be extremely dangerous
+for the provisions; and it was often a nervous thing to see our whole
+means of existence lying on a decayed sheet, having holes quite through
+it in many parts, and which the smallest motion among the surrounding
+masses might have instantly broken into pieces. There was, however, no
+choice, except between this road and the more rugged though safer
+hummocks, which cost ten times the labour to pass over. Mounting one of
+the highest of these at nine P.M., we could discover nothing to the
+north, ward but the same broken and irregular surface; and we now began
+to doubt whether we should at all meet with the solid fields of unbroken
+ice which every account had led us to expect in a much lower latitude
+than this. A very strong, yellow ice-blink overspread the whole northern
+horizon.
+
+We stopped to dine at half an hour past midnight, after more than five
+hours unceasing labour, in the course of which time we had only
+accomplished a mile and a half due north, though we had traversed from
+three to four, and walked at least ten, having made three journeys a
+great part of the way. We had launched and hauled up the boats four
+times, and dragged them over twenty-five separate pieces of ice. After
+dinner we continued the same kind of travelling, which was, beyond all
+description, harrassing to the officers and men. In crossing from mass
+to mass, several of which were separated about half the length of our
+sledges, the officers were stationed at the most difficult places to see
+that no precaution, was omitted which could ensure the safety of the
+provisions. Only one individual was allowed to jump over at a time, or
+to stand near either margin, for fear of the weight being too great for
+it; and when three or four men had separately crossed, the sledge was
+cautiously drawn up to the edge, and the word being given, the men
+suddenly ran away with the ropes, so as to allow no time for its
+falling in if the ice should break. Having at length succeeded in
+reaching a small floe, we halted at half past six A.M., much wearied by
+nearly eleven hours' exertion, by which we had only advanced three miles
+and a half in a N.N.W. direction. We rose at six P.M., and prepared to
+set out, but it rained so hard and so incessantly that it would have
+been impossible to move without a complete drenching. It held up a
+little at five, and at six we set out; but the rain soon recommenced,
+though less heavily than before. At eight the rain again became heavier,
+and we got under shelter of our awnings for a quarter of an hour, to
+keep our shirts and other flannel clothes dry; these being the only
+things we now had on which were not thoroughly wet. At nine we did the
+same, but before ten were obliged to halt altogether, the rain coming
+down in torrents, and the men being much exhausted by continued wet and
+cold, though the thermometer was at 36 deg., which was somewhat above our
+usual temperature. At half past seven P.M. we again pursued our journey,
+and, after much laborious travelling, we were fortunate, considering the
+fog, in hitting upon a floe which proved the longest we had yet crossed,
+being three miles from south to north, though alternately rugged and
+flat. From this we launched into a lane of water half a mile long from
+east to west, but which only gave us a hundred and fifty yards of
+northing.
+
+The floe on which we stopped to dine, at one A.M. on the 16th, was not
+more than four feet thick, and its extent half a mile square; and on
+this we had the rare advantage of carrying all our loads at one journey.
+At half past six the fog cleared away, and gave us beautiful weather
+for drying our clothes, and once more the cheerful sight of the blue
+sky. We halted at half past seven, after being twelve hours on the road,
+having made a N.b.W. course, distance only six miles and a quarter,
+though we had traversed nine miles. We saw, during this last journey, a
+mallemucke and a second Ross gull: and a couple of small flies (to us an
+event of ridiculous importance) were found upon the ice.
+
+We again pursued our way at seven in the evening, having the unusual
+comfort of putting on dry stockings, and the no less rare luxury of
+delightfully pleasant weather, the wind being moderate from the S.S.E.
+It was so warm in the sun, though the temperature in the shade was only
+35 deg., that the tar was running out of the seams of the boats; and a
+blackened bulb held against the paint-work raised the thermometer to
+72 deg. The floes were larger to-day, and the ice, upon the whole, of
+heavier dimensions than any we had yet met with. The general thickness
+of the floes, however, did not exceed nine or ten feet, which is not
+more than the usual thickness of those in Baffin's Bay and Hudson's
+Strait.
+
+The 17th of July being one of the days on which the Royal Society of
+Edinburgh have proposed to institute a series of simultaneous
+meteorological observations, we commenced an hourly register of every
+phenomenon which came under our notice, and which our instruments and
+other circumstances would permit, and continued most of them throughout
+the day. Our latitude, observed at noon, was 82 deg. 32' 10", being more
+than a mile to the southward of the reckoning, though the wind had been
+constantly from that quarter during the twenty-four hours.
+
+After midnight the road became, if possible, worse, and the prospect to
+the northward more discouraging than before; nothing but loose and very
+small pieces of ice being in sight, over which the boats were dragged
+almost entirely by a "standing-pull." The men were so exhausted with
+their day's work, that it was absolutely necessary to give them
+something hot for supper, and we again served a little cocoa for that
+purpose. They were also put into good spirits by our having killed a
+small seal, which, the following night, gave us an excellent supper. The
+meat of these young animals is tender, and free from oiliness; but it
+certainly has a smell and a look which would not have been agreeable to
+any but very hungry people like ourselves. We also considered it a great
+prize on account of its blubber, which gave us fuel sufficient for
+cooking six hot messes for our whole party, though the animal only
+weighed thirty pounds in the whole.
+
+Setting out at half past seven in the evening, we found the sun more
+distressing to the eyes than we had ever yet had it, bidding defiance to
+our crape veils and wire-gauze eye-shades;[022] but a more effectual
+screen was afforded by the sun becoming clouded about nine P.M. At half
+past nine we came to a very difficult crossing among the loose ice,
+which, however, we were encouraged to attempt by seeing a floe of some
+magnitude beyond it. We had to convey the sledges and provisions one
+way, and to haul the boats over by another. One of the masses over which
+the boats came began to roll about while one of them was upon it, giving
+us reason to apprehend its upsetting, which must have been attended with
+some very serious consequence: fortunately, however, it retained its
+equilibrium long enough to allow us to get the boat past it in safety,
+not without several of the men falling overboard, in consequence of the
+long jumps we had to make, and the edges breaking with their weight.
+
+On the morning of the 20th we came to a good deal of ice, which formed a
+striking contrast with the other, being composed of flat bay-floes, not
+three feet thick, which would have afforded us good travelling had they
+not recently been broken into small pieces, obliging us to launch
+frequently from one to another. These floes had been the product of the
+last winter only, having probably been formed in some of the interstices
+left between the larger bodies; and, from what we saw of them, there
+could be little doubt of their being all dissolved before the next
+autumnal frost. We halted at seven A.M., having, by our reckoning,
+accomplished six miles and a half in a N.N.W. direction, the distance
+traversed being ten miles and a half. It may therefore be imagined how
+great was our mortification in finding that our latitude, by observation
+at noon, was only 82 deg. 36' 52", being less than _five_ miles to the
+northward of our place at noon on the 17th, since which time we had
+certainly travelled _twelve_ in that direction.
+
+At five A.M. on the 21st, having gone ahead, as usual, upon a bay-floe,
+to search for the best road, I heard a more than ordinary noise and
+bustle among the people who were bringing up the boats behind. On
+returning to them, I found that we had narrowly, and most
+providentially, escaped a serious calamity; the floe having broken under
+the weight of the boats and sledges, and the latter having nearly been
+lost through the ice. Some of the men went completely through, and one
+of them was only held up by his drag-belt being attached to a sledge
+which happened to be on firmer ice. Fortunately the bread had, by way of
+security, been kept in the boats, or this additional weight would
+undoubtedly have sunk the sledges, and probably some of the men with
+them. As it was, we happily escaped, though we hardly knew how, with a
+good deal of wetting; and, cautiously approaching the boats, drew them
+to a stronger part of the ice, after which we continued our journey till
+half past six A.M., when we halted to rest, having travelled about seven
+miles N.N.W., our longitude by chronometers being 19 deg. 52' east, and the
+latitude 82 deg. 39' 10", being only two miles and a quarter to the
+northward of the preceding day's observation, or four miles and a half
+to the southward of our reckoning.
+
+Our sportsmen had the good fortune to kill another seal to-day, rather
+larger than the first, which again proved a most welcome addition to our
+provisions and fuel. Indeed, after this supply of the latter, we were
+enabled to allow ourselves every night a pint of warm water for supper,
+each man making his own soup from such a portion of his bread and
+pemmican as he could save from dinner. Setting out again at seven in the
+evening, we were not sorry to find the weather quite calm, which
+sailors account "half a fair wind;" for it was now evident that nothing
+but a southerly breeze could enable us to make any tolerable progress,
+or to regain what we had lately lost.
+
+Our travelling to-night was the very best we had during this excursion;
+for though we had to launch and haul up the boats frequently, an
+operation which, under the most favourable circumstances, necessarily
+occupies much time, yet the floes being large and tolerably level, and
+some good lanes of water occurring, we made, according to the most
+moderate calculation, between ten and eleven miles in a N.N.E.
+direction, and traversed a distance of about seventeen. We halted at a
+quarter past eight A.M. after more than twelve hours' actual travelling,
+by which the people were extremely fatigued; but, while our work seemed
+to be repaid by anything like progress, the men laboured with great
+cheerfulness to the utmost of their strength. The ice over which we had
+travelled was by far the largest and heaviest we met with during our
+whole journey; this, indeed, was the only occasion on which we saw
+anything answering in the slightest degree to the descriptions given of
+the main ice. The largest floe was from two and a half to three miles
+square, and in some places the thickness of the ice was from 15 to 20
+feet. However, it was a satisfaction to observe that the ice had
+certainly improved; and we now ventured to hope that, for the short time
+that we could still pursue our outward journey, our progress would be
+more commensurate with our exertions than it had hitherto proved. In
+proportion, then, to the hopes we had begun to entertain, was our
+disappointment in finding, at noon, that we were in latitude 82 deg. 43'
+5", or not quite four miles to the northward of yesterday's observation,
+instead of the ten or eleven which we had travelled! We halted at seven
+A.M. on the 23d, after a laborious day's work, and, I must confess, a
+disheartening one to those who knew to how little effect we were
+struggling; which, however, the men did not, though they often
+laughingly remarked that "we were a long time getting to this 83 deg.!"
+Being anxious to make up, in some measure, for the drift which the
+present northerly wind was in all probability occasioning, we rose
+earlier than usual, and set off at half past four in the evening. At
+half past five P.M. we saw a very beautiful natural phenomenon. A broad
+white fog-bow first appeared opposite the sun, as was very commonly the
+case; presently it became strongly tinged with, the prismatic colours,
+and soon afterward no less than five other complete arches were formed
+within the main bow, the interior ones being gradually narrower than
+those without, but the whole of them beautifully coloured. The larger
+bow, and the one next within it, had the red on the outer or upper part
+of the circle, the others on the inner side.
+
+We halted at a quarter past three on the morning of the 24th, having
+made four miles and a half N.N.E., over a road of about seven and a
+half, most of which we traversed, as usual, three times. We moved again
+at four P.M. over a difficult road, composed of small and rugged ice. So
+small was the ice now around us, that we were obliged to halt for the
+night at two A.M. on the 25th, being upon the only piece in sight, in
+any direction, on which we could venture to trust the boats while we
+rested. Such was the ice in the latitude of 82-3/4 deg.
+
+The wind had now got round to the W.N.W., with raw, foggy weather, and
+continued to blow fresh all day. Snow came on soon after our halting,
+and about two inches had fallen when we moved again at half past four
+P.M. We continued our journey in this inclement weather for three hours,
+hauling from piece to piece, and not making more than three quarters of
+a mile progress, till our clothes and bread-bags had become very wet,
+and the snow fell so thick that we could no longer see our way. It was
+therefore necessary to halt, which we did at half past seven, putting
+the awnings over the boats, changing our wet clothes, and giving the men
+employment for the mere sake of occupying their minds. The weather
+improving towards noon on the 26th, we obtained the meridian altitude of
+the sun, by which we found ourselves in latitude 82 deg. 40' 23"; so that,
+since our last observation (at midnight on the 22d), we had lost by
+drift no less than thirteen miles and a half; for we were now more than
+three miles to the _southward_ of that observation, though we had
+certainly travelled between ten and eleven due north in this interval!
+Again, we were but one mile to the north of our place at noon on the
+21st, though we had estimated our distance made good at twenty-three
+miles. Thus it appeared that for the last five days we had been
+struggling against a southerly drift exceeding four miles per day.
+
+It had, for some time past, been too evident that the nature of the ice
+with which we had to contend was such, and its drift to the southward,
+especially with a northerly wind, so great, as to put beyond our reach
+anything but a very moderate share of success in travelling to the
+northward. Still, however, we had been anxious to reach the highest
+latitude which our means would allow, and with this view, although our
+whole object had long become unattainable, had pushed on to the
+northward for thirty-five days, or until half our resources were
+expended, and the middle of our season arrived. For the last few days
+the eighty-third parallel was the limit to which we had ventured to
+extend our hopes; but even this expectation had become considerably
+weakened since the setting in of the last northerly wind, which
+continued to drive us to the southward, during the necessary hours of
+rest, nearly as much as we could gain by eleven or twelve hours of daily
+labour. Had our success been at all proportionate to our exertions, it
+was my full intention to proceed a few days beyond the middle of the
+period for which we were provided, trusting to the resources we expected
+to find at Table Island. But I could not but consider it as incurring
+useless fatigue to the officers and men, and unnecessary wear and tear
+for the boats, to persevere any longer in the attempt. I determined,
+therefore, on giving the people one entire day's rest, which they very
+much needed, and time to wash and mend their clothes, while the officers
+were occupied in making all the observations which might be interesting
+in this latitude; and then to set out on our return on the following
+day. Having communicated my intentions to the people, who were all much
+disappointed at finding how little their labours had effected, we set
+about our respective occupations, and were much favoured by a remarkably
+fine day.
+
+The highest latitude we reached was probably at seven A.M. on the 23d,
+when, after the midnight observation, we travelled, by our account,
+something more than a mile and a half, which would carry us a little
+beyond 82 deg. 45'. Some observations for the magnetic intensity were
+obtained at this station. We here found no bottom with five hundred
+fathoms of line. At the extreme point of our journey, our distance from
+the Hecla was only 172 miles in a S. 8 deg. W. direction. To accomplish
+this distance, we had traversed, by our reckoning, 292 miles, of which
+about 100 were performed by water, previous to our entering the ice. As
+we travelled by far the greater part of our distance on the ice three,
+and not unfrequently five, times over, we may safely multiply the length
+of the road by two and a half; so that our whole distance, on a very
+moderate calculation, amounted to 580 geographical or 668 statute miles,
+being nearly sufficient to have reached the Pole in a direct line.
+
+Our day of rest (27th of July) proved one of the warmest and most
+pleasant to the feelings we had yet had upon the ice, though the
+thermometer was only from 31 deg. to 36 deg. in the shade, and 37 deg.
+in the sun, with occasional fog; but to persons in the open air, calm
+and tolerably dry weather affords absolute enjoyment, especially by
+contrast with what we had lately experienced. Our ensigns and pendants
+were displayed during the day; and, sincerely as we regretted not having
+been able to hoist the British flag in the highest latitude to which we
+had aspired, we shall perhaps be excused in having felt some little
+pride in being the bearers of it to a parallel considerably beyond that
+mentioned in any other well-authenticated record.
+
+At 4.30 P.M. on the 27th, we set out on our return to the southward, and
+I can safely say that, dreary and cheerless as were the scenes we were
+about to leave, we never turned homeward with so little satisfaction as
+on this occasion. To afford a chance of determining the general set of
+the current from this latitude, we left upon a hummock of ice a paper,
+sewn up in a water-proof canvass bag, and then enclosed in a water-tight
+tin canister, giving an account of the place where it was deposited, and
+requesting any person who should find it to send it to the secretary of
+the admiralty. Nothing worthy of particular notice occurred on this and
+the following day, on each of which we travelled eleven hours; finding
+the water somewhat more open and the floes less rugged than usual. Two
+of these were from two to three miles in length, and in one instance the
+surface was sufficiently level to allow us to drag the boats for three
+quarters of a mile with the sledges _in tow_. Our latitude, observed at
+noon of the 30th, was 82 deg. 20' 37", or twelve miles and a half to the
+southward of the preceding day's observation, though we had travelled
+only seven by our account; so that the drift of the ice had assisted us
+in gaining five miles and a half in that interval.
+
+Setting out to continue our journey at five P.M., we could discover
+nothing from a high hummock but the kind of bay-ice before noticed,
+except on the floe on which we had slept. The travelling was very
+laborious, but we were obliged to go on till we could get to a secure
+floe for resting upon, which we could not effect till half past four on
+the 31st, when, in eleven hours and a half, we had not made more than
+two miles and a quarter of southing. However, we had the satisfaction,
+which was denied us on our outward journey, of feeling confident that we
+should keep all that we gained, and probably make a good deal more;
+which, indeed, proved to be the case, for at noon we found our latitude,
+by observation, to be 82 deg. 14' 25", or four miles to the southward of
+the reckoning.
+
+We halted at five A.M. on the 1st of August, the officers and men being
+quite knocked up, and having made by our account only two miles of
+southing over a road not less than five in length. As we came along we
+had seen some recent bear-tracks, and soon after discovered Bruin
+himself. Halting the boats and concealing the people behind them, we
+drew him almost within gun-shot; but, after making a great many
+traverses behind some hummocks, and even mounting one of them to examine
+us more narrowly, he set off and escaped--I must say, to our grievous
+disappointment; for we had already, by anticipation, consigned a
+tolerable portion of his flesh to our cooking kettle, over a fire of his
+own blubber.
+
+In the course of our journey, on the 2d of August, we met with a
+quantity of snow, tinged, to the depth of several inches, with some red
+colouring matter, of which a portion was preserved in a bottle for
+future examination. This circumstance recalled to our recollection our
+having frequently before, in the course of this journey, remarked that
+the loaded sledges, in passing over hard snow, left upon it a light,
+rose-coloured tint, which, at the time, we attributed to the colouring
+matter being pressed out of the birch of which they were made. Today,
+however, we observed that the runners of the, boats, and even our own
+footsteps, exhibited the same appearance; and, on watching it more
+narrowly afterward, we found the same effect to be produced, in a
+greater or less degree, by heavy pressure, on almost all the ice over
+which we passed, though a magnifying glass could detect nothing to give
+it this tinge. Halting at seven A.M. on the 3d, after launching and
+hauling up the boats a great number of times, we had not only the
+comfort of drying all our wet clothes, but were even able to wash many
+of our woollen things, which dried in a few hours. The latitude observed
+at noon was 82 deg. 1' 48", or twelve miles and a half, to the southward of
+our place on the 31st, which was about three more than our log gave,
+though there had been southing in the wind during the whole interval.
+
+We proceeded on our journey southward at eight P.M., and were again
+favoured with a clear and beautiful night, though the travelling was as
+slow and laborious as ever, there being scarcely a tolerable floe lying
+in our road. The sun now became so much lower at night, that we were
+seldom annoyed by the glare from the snow. It was also a very
+comfortable change to those who had to look out for the road, to have
+the sun behind us instead of facing it, as on our outward journey. We
+stopped to rest at a quarter past six A.M. on the 4th, after
+accomplishing three miles in a south direction, over a troublesome road
+of nearly twice that length. It was almost calm, and to our feelings
+oppressively warm during the day, the thermometer within the boats
+rising as high as 66 deg., which put our fur dresses nearly "out of
+commission," though the mercury exposed to the sun outside did not rise
+above 39 deg. Pursuing our journey at eight P.M., we paid, as usual, for
+this comfort by the extreme softness of the snow. The upper crust would
+sometimes support a man's weight for a short time, and then suddenly let
+him down two or three feet, so that we could never make sure of our
+footing for two steps together. Several of the men were also suffering
+much at this time from chilblains, which, from the constant wet and
+cold, as well as the irritation in walking, became serious sores,
+keeping them quite lame. With many of our people, also, the epidermis or
+scarfskin peeled off in large flakes, not merely in the face and hands,
+which were exposed to the action of the sun and the weather, but in
+every other part of the body; this, however, was attended with no pain,
+nor with much inconvenience.
+
+A fat bear crossed over a lane of water to visit us, and, approaching
+the boats within twenty yards, was killed by Lieutenant Ross. The scene
+which followed was laughable, even to us who participated in it. Before
+the animal had done biting the snow, one of the men was alongside of him
+with an open knife; and, being asked what he was about to do, replied
+that he was about cut out his heart and liver to put into the pot, which
+happened to be then boiling for our supper. In short, before the bear
+had been dead an hour, all hands of us were employed, to our great
+satisfaction, in discussing the merits, not only of the said heart and
+liver, but a pound per man of the flesh; besides which, some or other of
+the men were constantly frying steaks during the whole day, over a large
+fire made of the blubber. The consequence of all this, and other similar
+indulgences, necessarily was, that some of them complained, for several
+days after, of the pains usually arising from indigestion; though they
+all, amusingly enough, attributed this effect to the quality, and not
+the quantity of meat they had eaten. However, notwithstanding these
+excesses at first, we were really thankful for this additional supply of
+meat; for we had observed for some time past, that the men were
+evidently not so strong as before, and would be the better for more
+sustenance.
+
+The rain continued so hard at our usual time of setting out, that I was
+obliged to delay doing so till six P.M. on the 8th, when it ceased a
+little, after falling hard for twenty-four hours, and less violently for
+twelve more. When we first launched the boats, our prospect of making
+progress seemed no better than usual, but we found one small hole of
+water leading into another in so extraordinary a manner, that, though
+the space in which we were rowing seemed always to be coming to an end,
+we continued to creep through narrow passages, and, when we halted to
+dine at half an hour before midnight, had only hauled the boats up once,
+and had made, though by a winding channel, four or five miles of
+southing. This was so unusual a circumstance, that we could not help
+entertaining some hope of our being at no great distance from the open
+sea, which seemed the more probable from our having seen seven or eight
+narwhals, and not less than two hundred rotges, a flock of these little
+birds occurring in every hole of water. At noon on the 10th of August,
+we observed in latitude 81 deg. 40' 13", which was only four miles to the
+northward of our reckoning from the last observation, although there had
+been almost constantly southing in the wind ever since, and it had been
+blowing strong from that quarter for the last thirty hours. This
+circumstance afforded a last and striking proof of the general tendency
+of the ice to drift southward, about the meridians on which we had been
+travelling. Another bear came towards the boats in the course of the
+day, and was killed. We were now so abundantly supplied with meat, that
+the men would again have eaten immoderately had we not interposed the
+necessary authority to prevent them. As it was, our encampment became so
+like an Esquimaux establishment, that we were obliged to shift our place
+upon the floe in the course of the day, for the sake of cleanliness and
+comfort.
+
+The wind falling towards midnight, we launched the boats at half past
+one A.M. on the 11th, paddling alternately in large spaces of clear
+water and among streams of loose "sailing ice." We soon afterward
+observed such indications of an open sea as could not be mistaken, much
+of the ice being "washed" as by a heavy sea, with small rounded
+fragments thrown on the surface, and a good deal of "dirty ice"
+occurring. After passing through a good deal of loose ice, it became
+gradually more and more open, till at length, at a quarter before seven
+A.M., we heard the first sound of the swell under the hollow margins of
+the ice, and in a quarter of an hour had reached the open sea, which was
+dashing with heavy surges against the outer masses. We hauled the boats
+upon one of these, to eat our last meal upon the ice, and to complete
+the necessary supply of water for our little voyage to Table Island,
+from which we were now distant fifty miles, our latitude being 81 deg. 34',
+and longitude 18-1/4 deg. E. A light air springing up from the N.W., we
+again launched the boats, and at eight A.M. finally quitted the ice,
+after having taken up our abode upon it for forty-eight days.
+
+We had some fog during the night, so that we steered entirely by
+compass, according to our last observations by the chronometers, which
+proved so correct, that, at five A.M. on the 12th, on the clearing up of
+the haze, we made the island right ahead. At eleven A.M. we reached the
+island, or rather the rock to the northward of it, where our provisions
+had been deposited; and I cannot describe the comfort we experienced in
+once more feeling a dry and solid footing. We found that the bears had
+devoured all the bread (one hundred pounds), which occasioned a remark
+among the men, with reference to the quantity of these animals' flesh
+that we had eaten, that "Bruin was only square with us." We also found
+that Lieutenant Crozier had been here since we left the island, bringing
+some materials for repairing our boats, as well as various little
+luxuries to which we had lately been strangers, and depositing in a
+copper cylinder a letter from Lieutenant Foster, giving me a detailed
+account of the proceedings of the ship up to the 23d of July. By this I
+learned that the Hecla had been forced on shore on the 7th of July, by
+the breaking-up of the ice at the head of the bay, which came down upon
+her in one solid mass; but, by the unwearied and zealous exertions of
+the officers and men, she had again been hove off without incurring the
+slightest damage, and placed in perfect security. Among the supplies
+with which the anxious care of our friends on board had now furnished
+us, some lemon-juice and sugar were not the least acceptable; two or
+three of the men having for some days past suffered from oedematous
+swellings of the legs, and evinced other symptoms apparently scorbutic,
+but which soon improved after administering this valuable specific.
+
+Having got our stores into the boats, we rowed round Table Island to
+look for a place on which to rest, the men being much fatigued; but so
+rugged and inhospitable is this northern rock, that not a single spot
+could we find where the boats could possibly be hauled up, or lie afloat
+in security. I therefore determined to take advantage of the freshening
+of the N.E. wind, and to bear up for Walden Island, which we accordingly
+did at two P.M. We had scarcely made, sail when the weather became
+extremely inclement, with a fresh gale and very thick snow, which
+obscured Walden Island from our view. Steering by compass, however, we
+made a good landfall, the boats behaving well in a sea; and at seven
+P.M. landed in the smoothest place we could find under the lee of the
+island. Everything belonging to us was now completely drenched by the
+spray and snow; we had been fifty-six hours without rest, and
+forty-eight at work in the boats, so that, by the time they were
+unloaded, we had barely strength left to haul them up on the rock. We
+noticed, on this occasion, that the men had that wildness in their looks
+which usually accompanies excessive fatigue; and, though just as willing
+as ever to obey orders, they seemed at times not to comprehend them.
+However, by dint of great exertion, we managed to get the boats above
+the surf; after which, a hot supper, a blazing fire of driftwood, and a
+few hours' quiet rest, quite restored us.
+
+The next morning, the 13th, I despatched Lieutenant Ross, with a party
+of hands, to the N.E. part of the island, to launch the spare boat,
+which, according to my directions, Lieutenant Foster had sent for our
+use, and to bring round the stores deposited there in readiness for our
+setting off for Low Island. They found everything quite undisturbed;
+but, by the time they reached us, the wind had backed to the westward,
+and the weather become very wet, so that I determined to remain here
+till it improved.
+
+At ten A.M. on the 14th, the weather being fine, we launched our three
+boats and left Walden Island; but the wind backing more to the westward,
+we could only fetch into a bay on the opposite or southern shore, where
+we hauled the boats up on very rugged rocks, under cliffs about six
+hundred feet high, and of the same granite formation as Walden Island.
+
+The wind dying away on the morning of the 17th, we once more set out for
+the ship at nine A.M.; but having a second time nearly reached Shoal
+Point, were again met by a strong breeze as we opened Waygatz Strait,
+and were therefore obliged to land upon the low shore to the southward
+of Low Island.
+
+On the 18th of August the wind increased to a strong breeze from the
+S.W., with rain and sleet, which afterward changed to snow in some of
+the largest flakes I ever saw, completely changing the whole aspect of
+the land from summer to winter in a few hours. On the following morning
+we prepared to move at an early hour, but the wind backed more to the
+westward, and soon after increased to a gale, raising so much surf on
+the beach as to oblige us to haul the boats higher up. On the 20th,
+tired as we were of this tedious confinement, and anxious to reach the
+ship, the wind and sea were still too high to allow us to move, and it
+was not till half past seven A.M. on the following day that we could
+venture to launch the boats. Having now, by means of the driftwood,
+converted our paddles into oars, and being occasionally favoured by a
+light breeze, with a perfectly open sea, we made tolerable progress, and
+at half past four P.M. on the 21st of August, when within three or four
+miles of Hecla Cove, had the gratification of seeing a boat under sail
+coming out to meet us. Mr. Weir soon joined us in one of the cutters;
+and, after hearing good accounts of the safety of the ship, and of the
+welfare of all on board, together with a variety of details, to us of no
+small interest, we arrived on board at seven P.M., after an absence of
+sixty-one days, being received with that warm and cordial welcome which
+can alone be felt, and not described.
+
+I cannot conclude the account of our proceedings without endeavouring
+to do justice to the cheerful alacrity and unwearied zeal displayed by
+my companions, both officers and men, in the course of this excursion;
+and if steady perseverance and active exertion on their parts could have
+accomplished our object, success would undoubtedly have crowned our
+labours. I must also mention, to the credit of the officers of Woolwich
+dock-yard, who took so much pains in the construction of our boats,
+that, notwithstanding the constant and severe trial to which their
+strength had been put--and a more severe trial could not well be
+devised--not a timber was sprung, a plank split, or the smallest injury
+sustained by them; they were, indeed, as tight and as fit for service
+when we reached the ship as when they were first received on board, and
+in every respect answered the intended purpose admirably.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+On my arrival on board, I learned from Lieutenant Crozier that
+Lieutenant Foster, finding that no farther disturbance from ice was to
+be apprehended, and after making an accurate plan of the bay and its
+neighbourhood, had proceeded on the survey of Waygatz Strait, and
+proposed returning by the 26th of August, the day to which I had limited
+his absence. I found the ship quite ready for sea, with the exception of
+getting on board the launch, with the stores deposited by my direction
+on the beach. Lieutenant Foster's report informed me that, after the
+ship had been hauled off the ground, they had again suffered
+considerable disturbance for several days, in consequence of some heavy
+masses of ice driving into the bay, which dragged the anchors, and
+again threatened them with a similar accident. However, after the middle
+of July, no ice had entered the bay, and, what is still more remarkable,
+not a piece had been seen in the offing for some weeks past, even after
+hard northerly and westerly gales.
+
+On the 22d of August, as soon as our people had enjoyed a good night's
+rest, we commenced bringing the stores on board from the beach, throwing
+out such a quantity of the stone ballast as was necessary for trimming
+the ship; after which the cables and hawsers were cast off from the
+shore, and the ship hauled off to single anchor. Lieutenant Foster
+returned on board on the 24th, having surveyed the greater part of the
+shores of the strait, as far to the southward as 79 deg. 33".
+
+Lieutenant Foster saw some seahorses (narwhals) and white whales in the
+course of this excursion, but no black whales; nor did we, in the whole
+course of the voyage, see any of these, except on the ground already
+frequented by our whalers on the western coast of Spitzbergen. It is
+remarkable, however, that the "crown-bones," and other parts of the
+skeleton of whales, are found in most parts where we landed on this
+coast. The shores of the strait, like all the rest in Spitzbergen, are
+lined with immense quantities of driftwood, wherever the nature of the
+coast will allow it to land.
+
+The animals met with here during the Hecla's stay were principally
+reindeer, bears, foxes, kittiwakes, glaucus and ivory gulls, tern,
+eider-ducks, and a few grouse. Looms and rotges were numerous in the
+offing. Seventy reindeer were killed, chiefly very small, and, until
+the middle of August, not in good condition. They were usually met with
+in herds of from six or eight to twenty, and were most abundant on the
+west and north sides of the bay. Three bears were killed, one of which
+was somewhat above the ordinary dimensions, measuring eight feet four
+inches from the snout to the insertion of the tail. The vegetation was
+tolerably abundant, especially on the western side of the bay, where the
+soil is good; a considerable collection of plants, as well as minerals,
+was made by Mr. Halse, and of birds by Mr. M'Cormick.
+
+The neighbourhood of this bay, like most of the northern shores of
+Spitzbergen, appears to have been much visited by the Dutch at a very
+early period; of which circumstance records are furnished on almost
+every spot where we landed, by the numerous graves which we met with.
+There are thirty of these on a point of land on the north side of the
+bay.[023] The bodies are usually deposited in an oblong wooden coffin,
+which, on account of the difficulty of digging the ground, is not
+buried, but merely covered by large stones; and a board is generally
+placed near the head, having, either cut or painted upon it, the name of
+the deceased, with those of his ship and commander, and the month and
+year of his burial. Several of these were fifty or sixty years old; one
+bore the date of 1738; and another, which I found on the beach to the
+eastward of Hecla Cove, that of 1690; the inscription distinctly
+appearing in prominent relief, occasioned by the preservation of the
+wood by the paint, while the unpainted part had decayed around it.
+
+The officers who remained on board the Hecla during the summer described
+the weather as the most beautiful, and the climate altogether the most
+agreeable, they had ever experienced in the Polar Regions. Indeed, the
+Meteorological Journal shows a temperature, both of the air and of the
+sea water, to which we had before been altogether strangers within the
+Arctic Circle, and which goes far towards showing that the climate of
+Spitzbergen is a remarkably temperate one for its latitude.[024] It
+must, however, be observed, that this remark is principally applicable
+to the weather experienced _near the land_, that at sea being rendered
+of a totally different character by the almost continual presence of
+fogs; so that some of our most gloomy days upon the ice were among the
+finest in Hecla Cove, where, however, a good deal of rain fell in the
+course of the summer.
+
+The Hecla was ready for sea on the 25th of August; but the wind blowing
+fresh from the northward and westward prevented our moving till the
+evening of the 28th, when, the weather improving, we got under way from
+Hecla Cove, and, being favoured with a light air from the S.E., stood
+along the coast to the westward. On the evening of the 29th, when off
+Red Beach, we got on board our boat and other stores which had been
+left there, finding them undisturbed and in good order. The weather was
+beautifully fine, and the sun (to us for the first time for about four
+months) just dipped his lower limb into the sea at midnight, and then
+rose again. It was really wonderful to see that, upon this whole
+northern coast of Spitzbergen, where in May and June not a "hole" of
+clear water could be found, it would now have been equally difficult to
+discover a single mass of ice in any direction. This absence of ice now
+enabled us to see Moffen Island, which is so low and flat that it was
+before entirely hidden from our view by the hummocks. On rounding
+Hakluyt's Headland on the 30th, we came at once into a long swell, such
+as occurs only in places exposed to the whole range of the ocean, and,
+except a small or loose stream or two, we after this saw no more ice of
+any kind. On the 31st we were off Prince Charles's Foreland, the middle
+part of which, about Cape Sietoe, appeared to be much the highest land
+we had seen in Spitzbergen; rising probably to an elevation of above
+four thousand feet.
+
+We had favourable winds to carry us clear of Spitzbergen; but after the
+3d of September, and between the parallels of 70 deg. and 60 deg., were
+detained by continual southerly and southwesterly breezes for a
+fortnight. On the evening of the 17th we made Shetland, and on the
+following day, being close off Balta Sound, and the wind blowing strong
+from the S.W., I anchored in the Voe at two P.M., to wait a more
+favourable breeze. We were here received by all that genuine hospitality
+for which the inhabitants of this northern part of the British dominions
+are so justly distinguished, and we gladly availed ourselves of the
+supplies with which their kindness furnished us.
+
+Early on the morning of the 19th of September, the wind suddenly shifted
+to the N.N.W., and almost immediately blew so strong a gale that we could
+not safely cast the ship until the evening, when we got under way and
+proceeded to the southward; but had not proceeded farther than Fair
+Island, when, after a few hours' calm, we were once more met by a
+southerly wind. Against this we continued to beat till the morning of
+the 23d, when, finding that we made but little progress, and that there
+was no appearance of an alteration of wind, I determined to put into
+Long Hope, in the Orkney Islands, to await a change in our favour, and
+accordingly ran in and anchored there as soon as the tide would permit.
+
+We found lying here his majesty's revenue cutter the Chichester; and Mr.
+Stuart, her commander, who was bound direct to Inverness, came on board
+as soon as we had anchored, to offer his services in any manner which
+might be useful. The wind died away in the course of the night of the
+24th, and was succeeded on the following morning by a light air from the
+northward, when we immediately got under way; but had not entered the
+Pentland Firth, when it again fell calm and then backed to the
+southward, rendering it impossible to make any progress in that
+direction with a dull-sailing ship. I therefore determined on returning
+with the Hecla to the anchorage, and then taking advantage of Mr.
+Stuart's offer; and accordingly left the ship at eight A.M., accompanied
+by Mr. Beverly, to proceed to Inverness in the Chichester, and from
+thence by land to London, in order to lay before his royal highness the
+lord high admiral, without farther delay, an account of our proceedings.
+By the zealous exertions of Mr. Stuart, for which I feel greatly obliged
+to that gentleman, we arrived off Fort George the following morning,
+and, landing at Inverness at noon, immediately set off for London, and
+arrived at the Admiralty on the morning of the 29th of September.
+
+Owing to the continuance of southerly winds, the Hecla did not arrive in
+the river Thames until the 6th of October, when I was sorry, though not
+surprised, to learn the death of Mr. George Crawford, the Greenland
+master, who departed this life on the 29th of September, sincerely
+lamented by all who knew him, as a zealous, active, and enterprising
+seaman, and an amiable and deserving man. Mr. Crawford had accompanied
+us in five successive voyages to the Polar Seas, and I truly regret the
+occasion which demands from me this public testimony of the value of his
+services and the excellence of his character.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+Having finished my Narrative of this Attempt to reach the North Pole, I
+may perhaps be permitted, in conclusion, to offer such remarks as have
+lately occurred to me on the nature and practicability of the
+enterprise.
+
+That the object is of still more difficult attainment than was before
+supposed, even by those persons who were the best qualified to judge of
+it, will, I believe, appear evident from a perusal of the foregoing
+pages; nor can I, after much consideration and some experience of the
+various difficulties which belong to it, recommend any material
+improvement in the plan lately adopted. Among the various schemes
+suggested for this purpose, it has been proposed to set out from
+Spitzbergen, and to make a rapid journey to the northward with sledges
+or sledge-boats, drawn wholly by dogs or reindeer; but, however feasible
+this plan may at first sight appear, I cannot say that our late
+experience of the nature of the ice which they would probably have to
+encounter has been at all favourable to it. It would, of course, be a
+matter of extreme imprudence to set out on this enterprise without the
+means of crossing, not merely narrow pools and "lanes," but more
+extensive spaces of open water, such as we met with between the margin
+of the ice and the Spitzbergen shores; and I do not conceive that any
+boat sufficiently large to be efficient and safe for this purpose could
+possibly be managed upon the ice, were the power employed to give it
+motion dependant on dogs or reindeer. On the contrary, it was a frequent
+subject of remark among the officers, that reason was a qualification
+scarcely less indispensable than strength and activity in travelling
+over such a road; daily instances occurring of our having to pass over
+difficult places, which no other animal than man could have been easily
+prevailed upon to attempt. Indeed, the constant necessity of launching
+and hauling up the boats (which operations we had frequently to perform
+eight or ten, and, on one occasion, seventeen times in the same day)
+would alone render it inexpedient, in my opinion, to depend chiefly
+upon animals; for it would certainly require more time and labour to get
+them into and out of the boats, than their services in the intervals, or
+their flesh ultimately used as food, would be worth; especially when it
+is considered how large a weight of provender must be carried for their
+own subsistence.[025]
+
+In case of employing reindeer, which, from their strength, docility, and
+hardy habits, appear the best suited to this kind of travelling, there
+would be an evident advantage in setting out much earlier in the year
+than we did; perhaps about the end of April, when the ice is less broken
+up, and the snow much harder upon its surface than at a more advanced
+part of the season. But this, it must be recollected, would involve the
+necessity of passing the previous winter on the northern coast of
+Spitzbergen, which, even under favourable circumstances, would probably
+tend to weaken in some degree the energies of the men; while, on the
+other hand, it would be next to impossible to procure there a supply of
+provender for a number of tame reindeer, sufficient even to keep them
+alive, much less in tolerable condition, during a whole winter. In
+addition to this, it may be observed, that any party setting out earlier
+must be provided with a much greater weight of warm clothing in order to
+guard against the severity of cold, and also with an increased
+proportion of fuel for procuring water by the melting of snow, there
+being no fresh water upon the ice in these latitudes before the month of
+June.
+
+In the kind of provisions proper to be employed in such enterprises--a
+very important consideration, where almost the whole difficulty may be
+said to resolve itself into a question of weight--I am not aware that
+any improvement could be made upon that with which we were furnished;
+for I know of none which appears to contain so much nutriment in so
+small a weight and compass. It may be useful, however, to remark, as the
+result of absolute experience, that our daily allowance of
+provisions,[026] although previously tried for some days on board the
+ship, and then considered to be enough, proved by no means sufficient to
+support the strength of men living constantly in the open air, exposed
+to wet and cold for at least twelve hours a day, seldom enjoying the
+luxury of a warm meal, and having to perform the kind of labour to which
+our people were subject. I have before remarked, that, previously to our
+return to the ship, our strength was considerably impaired; and, indeed,
+there is reason to believe that, very soon after entering upon the ice,
+the physical energies of the men were gradually diminishing, although,
+for the first few weeks, they did not appear to labour under any
+specific complaint. This diminution of strength, which we considered to
+be principally owing to the want of sufficient sustenance, became
+apparent, even after a fortnight, in the lifting of the bread-bags and
+other heavy weights; and I have no doubt that, in spite of every care on
+the part of the officers, as well as Mr. Beverly's skilful and humane
+attention to their ailments, some of the men, who had begun to fail
+before we quitted the ice, would, in a week or two longer, have suffered
+very severely, and become a serious encumbrance, instead of an
+assistance, to our party. As far as we were able to judge, without
+farther trial, Mr. Beverly and myself were of opinion that, in order to
+maintain the strength of men thus employed for several weeks together,
+an addition would be requisite of at least one third more to the
+provisions which we daily issued. I need scarcely remark how much this
+would increase the difficulty of equipping such an expedition.
+
+I cannot dismiss the subject of this enterprise without attempting to
+explain, as far as I am able, how it may have happened that the ice over
+which we passed was found to answer so little to the description of that
+observed by the respectable authorities quoted in a former part of this
+volume.[027] It frequently occurred to us, in the course of our daily
+journeys, that this may, in some degree, have arisen from our
+navigators' having generally viewed the ice from a considerable height.
+The only clear and commanding view on board a ship is that from the
+crow's-nest; and Phipps's most important remarks concerning the nature
+of the ice to the north of Spitzbergen were made from a station several
+hundred feet above the sea; and, as it is well known how much the most
+experienced eye may thus be deceived, it is possible enough that the
+irregularities which cost us so much time and labour may, when viewed in
+this manner, have entirely escaped notice, and the whole surface have
+appeared one smooth and level plain.
+
+It is, moreover, possible, that the broken state in which we
+unexpectedly found the ice may have arisen, at least in part, from an
+unusually wet season, preceded, perhaps, by a winter of less than
+ordinary severity. Of the latter we have no means of judging, there
+being no record, that I am aware of, of the temperature of that or any
+other winter passed in the higher latitudes; but, on comparing our
+Meteorological Register with some others kept during the corresponding
+season and about the same latitude,[028] it does appear that, though no
+material difference is observable in the mean temperature of the
+atmosphere, the quantity of rain which we experienced is considerably
+greater than usual; and it is well known how very rapidly ice is
+dissolved by a fall of rain. At all events, from whatever cause it may
+have arisen, it is certain that, about the meridian on which we
+proceeded northward in the boats, the sea was in a totally different
+state from what Phipps experienced, as may be seen from comparing our
+accounts--his ship being closely beset, near the Seven Islands, for
+several days about the beginning of August; whereas the Hecla, in the
+beginning of June, sailed about in the same neighbourhood without
+obstruction, and, before the close of July, not a piece of ice could be
+seen from Little Table Island.
+
+I may add, in conclusion, that, before the middle of August, when we
+left the ice in our boats, a ship might have sailed to the latitude, of
+82 deg. almost without touching a piece of ice; and it was the general
+opinion among us, that, by the end of that month, it would probably have
+been no very difficult matter to reach the parallel of 83 deg., about the
+meridian of the Seven Islands.
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+
+
+
+FOOTNOTES
+
+[001] This name being applied by the Esquimaux to several other portions
+of land, all of which are insular, or nearly so, it is probable that the
+word simply signifies an island.
+
+[002] The expression "fixed ice" appearing better suited to our present
+obstacle than that of "land ice," I shall in future adopt it in speaking
+of this barrier.
+
+[003] Lest it should be thought that this account is exaggerated, I may
+here state, that, as a matter of curiosity, we one day tried how much a
+lad, scarcely full grown, would, if freely supplied, consume in this
+way. The under-mentioned articles were weighed before being given to
+him; he was twenty hours in getting through them, and certainly did not
+consider the quantity extraordinary.
+
+                                      lb.   oz.
+  Seahorse flesh, hard frozen          4     4
+  Ditto,     boiled                    4     4
+  Bread and bread-dust                 1    12
+                                      ________
+
+        Total of solids               10     4
+  The Fluids were in fair proportion, viz.:
+  Rich gravy-soup                      1-1/4 pint.
+  Raw spirits                          3 wine glasses.
+  Strong grog.                         1 tumbler.
+  Water                                1 gallon 1 pint.
+
+[004] We have since heard that these ships were the Dexterity, of Leith,
+and the Aurora, of Hull, which were wrecked on the 28th of August, 1821,
+about the latitude of 72 deg.
+
+[005] A fine lad, of about sixteen, being one day out in a boat with one
+of our gentlemen at Arlagnuk, reminded him, with a serious face, that he
+had laid a gun down _full-cocked_. There happened to be no charge in the
+gun at the time; but this was a proof of the attention the boy had paid
+to the art of using firearms, as well as an instance of considerate and
+manly caution, scarcely to have been expected in an individual of that
+age.
+
+[006] Most Greenland sailors use these; but many persons, both officers
+and men, have an absurd prejudice against what they call "wearing
+stays."
+
+[007] It is remarkable that this poor man had, twice before, within the
+space of nine months, been very near death; for, besides the accident
+already mentioned, of falling down the hill when escaping from the bear,
+he was also in imminent danger of dying of dropsy during the winter.
+
+[008] This birch, they said, had been procured from the southward by way
+of _Noowook_. We never met with any of the same kind in those parts of
+the country which we visited, except that observed by Captain Lyon in
+the deserted habitations of the Esquimaux near Five Hawser Bay.
+
+[009] Toolooak, who was a frequent visitor at the young gentlemen's
+mess-table on board the Fury, once evinced this taste, and no small
+cunning at the same time, by asking alternately for a little more bread
+and a little more butter, till he had made a hearty meal.
+
+[010] Cervical, 7; dorsal, 13; lumbar, 7; sacral, 3; caudal, 19.
+
+[011] Cartwright's _Labrador_, iii., 232.
+
+[012] Ledyard. _Proceedings of the African Association_, vol i, p. 30.
+
+[013] The first travelling boat, which was built by way of experiment,
+was planked differently from these two; the planks, which were of
+half-inch oak, being ingeniously "tongued" together with copper, in
+order to save the necessity of caulking in case of the wood shrinking.
+This was the boat subsequently landed on Red Beach.
+
+[014] This article of our equipment contains a large proportion of
+nutriment in a small weight and compass, and is therefore invaluable on
+such occasions. The process, which requires great attention, consists in
+drying large thin slices of the lean of the meat over the smoke of
+wood-fires, then pounding it, and lastly mixing it with about an equal
+weight of its own fat. In this state it is quite ready for use, without
+farther cooking.
+
+[015] The merits of this simple but valuable invention being now too
+well known to require any detailed account of the experiments, it is
+only necessary for me to remark, in this place, that the compass, having
+the plate attached to it, gave, under all circumstances, the correct
+magnetic bearing.
+
+[016] It is remarkable, that the Esquimaux word for boot is very like
+this--Kameega.
+
+[017] I find it to be the universal opinion among the most experienced
+of our whalers, that there is much less ice met with, of late years, in
+getting to the northward, in these latitudes, than formerly was the
+case. Mr. Scoresby, to whose very valuable local information, contained
+in his "Account of the Arctic Regions," I have been greatly indebted on
+this occasion, mentions the circumstance as a generally received fact.
+
+[018] It was probably some such gale as this which has given to
+Hakluyt's Headland, in an old Dutch chart, the appellation of "Duyvel's
+Hoek."
+
+[019] I have been thus particular in noticing the Hecla's position,
+because our observations would appear to be, with one exception, the
+most northern on record at that time. The Commissioners of Longitude, in
+their memorial to the king in council, in the year 1821, consider that
+the "progress of discovery has not arrived northward, according to any
+well-authenticated accounts, so far as eighty-one degrees of north
+latitude." Mr. Scoresby states his having observed in lat. 81 deg. 12' 42".
+
+[020] Had we succeeded in reaching the higher latitudes, where the
+change of the sun's altitude during the twenty-four hours is still less
+perceptible, it would have been essentially necessary to possess the
+certain means of knowing this; since an error of twelve hours of time
+would have carried us, when we intended to return, on a meridian
+opposite to, or 180 deg. from, the right one. To obviate the possibility of
+this, we had some chronometers constructed by Messrs. Parkinson and
+Frodsham, of which the hour-hand made only one revolution in the day,
+the twenty-four hours being marked round the dial-plate.
+
+[021] I may here mention, that, notwithstanding the heavy blows which
+the boats were constantly receiving, all our nautical and astronomical
+instruments were taken back to the ship without injury. This
+circumstance makes it, perhaps, worth while to explain, that they were
+lashed upon a wooden platform in the after locker of each boat,
+sufficiently small to be clear of the boat's sides, and playing on
+strong springs of whalebone, which entirely obviated the effects of the
+severe concussions to which they would otherwise have been subject.
+
+[022] We found the best preservative against this glare to be a pair of
+spectacles, having the glass of a bluish-green colour, and with
+side-screens to them.
+
+[023] Perhaps the name of this bay, from the Dutch word _Treuren_, "to
+lament, or be mournful," may have some reference to the graves found
+here.
+
+[024] Mr. Crowe, of Hammerfest, who lately passed a winter on the
+southwestern coast of Spitzbergen, in about latitude 78 deg., informed me
+that he had _rain at Christmas_; a phenomenon which would indeed have
+astonished us at any of our former wintering stations in a much lower
+latitude. Perhaps the circumstance of the reindeer wintering at
+Spitzbergen may also be considered a proof of a comparatively temperate
+climate.
+
+[025] See p. 254 of this volume. {line 6545 "The quantity of clean moss
+considered requisite for each deer per day is four pounds ..." -
+Transcriber}
+
+[026] See p. 280 of this volume. {line 7210 "Our allowance of provisions
+for each man per day was as follows:" - Transcriber}
+
+[027] See Introduction. {line 6343 "INTRODUCTION." - Transcriber}
+
+[028] Particularly that of Mr. Scoresby during the month of July, from
+1812 to 1818 inclusive, and Captain Franklin's for July and August,
+1818.
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THREE VOYAGES FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A
+NORTHWEST PASSAGE FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC, AND NARRATIVE OF AN
+ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NORTH POLE, VOLUME 2 (OF 2)***
+
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