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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A General History and Collection of Voyages
+and Travels, Volume 17, by Robert Kerr
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Volume 17
+       Arranged in Systematic Order: Forming a Complete History
+       of the Origin and Progress of Navigation, Discovery, and
+       Commerce, by Sea and Land, from the Earliest Ages to the
+       Present Time
+
+Author: Robert Kerr
+
+Release Date: March 21, 2005 [EBook #15425]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES AND TRAVELS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Robert Connal, Paul Ereaut and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team, from images generously made
+available by the Canadian Institute for Historical
+Microreproductions.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+A GENERAL HISTORY AND COLLECTION OF VOYAGES AND TRAVELS,
+
+ARRANGED IN SYSTEMATIC ORDER:
+
+FORMING A COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE ORIGIN AND PROGRESS OF NAVIGATION,
+DISCOVERY, AND COMMERCE, BY SEA AND LAND, FROM THE EARLIEST AGES TO THE
+PRESENT TIME.
+
+BY
+
+ROBERT KERR, F.R.S. & F.A.S. EDIN.
+
+ILLUSTRATED BY MAPS AND CHARTS.
+
+VOL. XVII.
+
+WILLIAM BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH:
+
+AND T. CADELL, LONDON.
+
+MDCCCXXIV.
+
+
+
+
+A GENERAL HISTORY AND COLLECTION OF VOYAGES AND TRAVELS,
+
+ARRANGED IN SYSTEMATIC ORDER:
+
+FORMING A COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE ORIGIN AND PROGRESS OF NAVIGATION,
+DISCOVERY, AND COMMERCE, BY SEA AND LAND, FROM THE EARLIEST AGES TO THE
+PRESENT TIME.
+
+BY
+
+ROBERT KERR, F.R.S. & F.A.S. EDIN.
+
+ILLUSTRATED BY MAPS AND CHARTS.
+
+VOL. XVII.
+
+EDINBURGH:
+
+_Printed by James Ballantyne & Co_.
+
+FOR WILLIAM BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH;
+J. MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET; BALDWIN, CRADOCK AND
+JOY, AND GALE AND FENNER, PATERNOSTER-ROW,
+LONDON; AND J. CUMMING, DUBLIN.
+
+1816.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS TO VOL. XVII.
+
+
+CHAP.
+V. _Continued_. Captain King's Journal of the Transactions on
+returning to the Sandwich Islands.
+
+  SECT.
+  VI. General Account of the Sandwich Islands. Their Number, Names, and
+  Situation. OWHYHEE. Its Extent, and Division into Districts. Account of
+  its Coasts, and the adjacent Country. Volcanic Appearances. Snowy
+  Mountains. Their Height determined. Account of a Journey into the
+  Interior Parts of the Country. MOWEE. TAHOOHOWA. MOROTOI. RANAI. WOAHOO.
+  ATOOI. ONEEHEOW. OREEHOUA. TAAOORA. Climate. Winds. Currents. Tides.
+  Animals and Vegetables. Astronomical Observations.
+
+  VII. General Account of the Sandwich Islands continued. Of the
+  Inhabitants. Their Origin. Persons. Pernicious effects of the Ava.
+  Numbers. Disposition and Manners. Reasons for supposing them not
+  Cannibals. Dress and Ornaments. Villages and Houses. Food. Occupations
+  and Amusements. Addicted to Gaming. Their extraordinary Dexterity in
+  Swimming. Arts and Manufactures. Curious Specimens of their Sculpture.
+  Kipparee, or Method of Painting Cloth. Mats. Fishing Hooks. Cordage.
+  Salt Pans. Warlike Instruments.
+
+  SECT. VIII. General Account of the Sandwich Islands continued.
+  Government. People divided into three Classes. Power of Erreetaboo.
+  Genealogy of the Kings of Owhyhee and Mowee. Power of the Chiefs. State
+  of the inferior Class. Punishment of Crimes. Religion. Society of
+  Priests. The Orono. Their Idols. Songs chanted by the Chiefs, before
+  they drink Ava. Human Sacrifices. Custom of Knocking out the fore Teeth.
+  Notions with regard to a future State. Marriages. Remarkable Instance of
+  Jealousy. Funeral Rites.
+
+CHAP.
+VI. Transactions during the second Expedition to the North, by the way of
+Kamtschatka; and on the Return Home by the way of Canton and the Cape of
+Good Hope.
+
+  SECT.
+  I. Departure from Oneheeow. Fruitless Attempt to discover Modoopapappa.
+  Course steered for Awatska Bay. Occurrences during that Passage. Sudden
+  Change from Heat to Cold. Distress occasioned by the Leaking of the
+  Resolution. View of the Coast of Kamtschatka. Extreme Rigour of the
+  Climate. Lose Sight of the Discovery. The Resolution enters the Bay of
+  Awatska. Prospect of the Town of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. Party sent
+  ashore. Their Reception by the Commanding-Officer of the Port. Message
+  dispatched to the Commander at Bolcheretsk. Arrival of the Discovery.
+  Return of the Messengers from the Commander. Extraordinary mode of
+  Travelling. Visit from a Merchant and a German Servant belonging to the
+  Commander.
+
+  II. Scarcity of Provisions and Stores at the Harbour of Saint Peter and
+  Saint Paul; A Party set out to visit the Commander at Bolcheretsk.
+  Passage up the River Awatska. Account of their Reception by the Toion of
+  Karatchin. Description of Kamtschadale Dress. Journey on Sledges.
+  Description of this Mode of Travelling. Arrival at Natcheekin. Account
+  of Hot Springs. Embark on Bolchoireka. Reception at the Capital.
+  Generous and hospitable Conduct of the Commander and the Garrison.
+  Description of Bolcheretsk. Presents from the Commander. Russian and
+  Kamtschadale Dancing. Affecting Departure from Bolcheretsk. Return to
+  Saint Peter and Saint Paul's, accompanied by Major Behm, who visits the
+  Ship. Generosity of the Sailors. Dispatches sent by Major Behm to
+  Petersburg. His Departure and Character.
+
+  III. Continuation of Transactions in the Harbour of St Peter and St
+  Paul. Abundance of Fish. Death of a Seaman belonging to the Resolution.
+  The Russian Hospital put under the Care of the Ship's Surgeons. Supply
+  of Flour and Cattle. Celebration of the King's Birth-day. Difficulties
+  in Sailing out of the Bay. Eruption of a Volcano. Steer to the
+  Northward. Cheepoonskoi Noss. Errors of the Russian Charts.
+  Kamptschatskoi Noss. Island of St. Laurence. View, from the same Point,
+  of the Coasts Asia and America, and the Islands of St. Diomede. Various
+  Attempts to get to the North, between the two Continents. Obstructed by
+  impenetrable Ice. Sea-horses and White Bears killed. Captain Clerke's
+  Determination and future Designs.
+
+  IV. Fruitless Attempts to penetrate through Ice to the North-West.
+  Dangerous Situation of the Discovery. Sea-horses killed. Fresh
+  Obstructions from the Ice. Report of Damages, received by the Discovery.
+  Captain Clerke's Determination to proceed to the Southward. Joy of the
+  Ships' Crews on that Occasion. Pass Serdze Kamen. Return through
+  Beering's Strait. Enquiry into the Extent of the North-East Coast of
+  Asia. Reasons for rejecting Muller's Map of the Promontory of the
+  Tschutski. Reasons for believing the Coast does not reach a higher
+  Latitude than 70-2/3° North. General Observations on the
+  Impracticability of a North-East or North-West Passage from the Atlantic
+  into the Pacific Ocean. Comparative View of the Progress made in the
+  Years 1778 and 1779. Remarks on the Sea and Sea-coasts, North of
+  Beering's Strait. History of the Voyage resumed. Pass the Island of St.
+  Laurence. The Island of Mednoi. Death of Captain Clerke. Short Account
+  of his Services.
+
+  V. Return to the Harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. Promotion of
+  Officers. Funeral of Captain Clerke. Damages of the Discovery repaired.
+  Various other Occupations of the Ships' Crews. Letters from the
+  Commander. Supply of Flour and Naval Stores from a Russian Galliot.
+  Account of an Exile. Bear-hunting and Fishing Parties. Disgrace of the
+  Serjeant. Celebration of the King's Coronation Day, and Visit from the
+  Commander. The Serjeant reinstated. A Russian Soldier promoted at our
+  Request. Remarks on the Discipline of the Russian Army. Church at
+  Paratounca. Method of Bear-hunting. Farther Account of the Bears and
+  Kamtschadales. Inscription to the Memory of Captain Clerke. Supply of
+  Cattle. Entertainments on the Empress's Name Day. Present from the
+  Commander. Attempt of a Marine to desert. Work out of the Bay. Nautical
+  and Geographical Description of Awatska Bay. Astronomical Tables and
+  Observations.
+
+  VI. General Account of Kamtschatka. Geographical Description. Rivers.
+  Soil. Climate. Volcanoes. Hot Springs. Productions. Vegetables. Animals.
+  Birds. Fish.
+
+  VII. General Account of Kamtschatka, continued. Of the Inhabitants.
+  Origin of the Kamtschadales. Discovered by the Russians. Abstract of
+  their History. Numbers. Present State. Of the Russian Commerce in
+  Kamtschatka. Of the Kamtschadale Habitations, and Dress. Of the Kurile
+  Islands. The Koreki. The Tschutski.
+
+  VIII. Plan of our future Proceedings. Course to the Southward, along the
+  Coast of Kamtschatka. Cape Lopatka. Pass the Islands Shoomska and
+  Paramousir. Driven to the Eastward of the Kuriles. Singular Situation
+  with respect to the pretended Discoveries of former Navigators.
+  Fruitless Attempts to reach the Islands North of Japan. Geographical
+  Conclusions. View of the Coast of Japan. Run along the East Side. Pass
+  two Japanese Vessels. Driven off the Coast by contrary Winds.
+  Extraordinary Effect of Currents. Steer for the Bashees. Pass large
+  Quantities of Pumice Stone. Discover Sulphur Island. Pass the Pratas.
+  Isles of Lema, and Ladrone Island. Chinese Pilot taken on board the
+  Resolution. Journals of the Officers and Men secured.
+
+  IX. Working up to Macao. A Chinese Comprador. Sent on Shore to visit the
+  Portuguese Governor. Effects of the Intelligence we received from
+  Europe. Anchor in the Typa. Passage up to Canton. Bocca Tygris. Wampu.
+  Description of a Sampane. Reception at the English Factory. Instance of
+  the suspicious Character of the Chinese. Of their Mode of trading. Of
+  the City of Canton. Its Size. Population. Number of Sampanes. Military
+  Force. Of the Streets and Houses. Visit to a Chinese. Return to Macao.
+  Great Demand for the Sea-Otter Skins. Plan of a Voyage for opening a
+  Fur-Trade on the Western Coast of America, and prosecuting further
+  Discoveries in the Neighbourhood of Japan. Departure from Macao. Price
+  of Provisions in China.
+
+  X. Leave the Typa. Orders of the Court of France respecting Captain
+  Cook. Resolutions in consequence thereof. Strike Soundings on the
+  Macclesfield Banks. Pass Pulo Sapata. Steer for Pulo Condore. Anchor at
+  Pulo Condore. Transactions during our Stay. Journey to the principal
+  Town. Receive a Visit from a Mandarin. Examine his Letters. Refreshments
+  to be procured. Description, and present State of the Island. Its
+  Produce. An Assertion of M. Sonnerat refuted. Astronomical and Nautical
+  Observations.
+
+  XI. Departure from Pulo Condore. Pass the Straits of Banca. View of the
+  Island of Sumatra. Straits of Sunda. Occurrences there. Description of
+  the Island of Cracatoa. Prince's Island. Effects of the Climate of Java.
+  Run to the Cape of Good Hope. Transactions there. Description of False
+  Bay. Passage to the Orkneys. General Reflections.
+
+Vocabulary of the Language of Nootka, or King George's Sound. April, 1778.
+
+Table to shew the Affinity between the Languages Spoken at Oonalashka and
+Norton Sound, and those of the Greenlanders and Esquimaux.
+
+APPENDIX, No. I. BYRON'S NARRATIVE.
+
+  The Author's Preface.
+
+  Chapter
+  I. Account of the Wager and her Equipment. Captain Kid's Death.
+  Succeeded by Captain Cheap. Our Disasters commence with our Voyage. We
+  lose Sight of our Squadron in a Gale of Wind. Dreadful Storm. Ship
+  strikes.
+
+  II. We land on a wild Shore. No Appearance of Inhabitants. One of our
+  Lieutenants dies. Conduct of a Part of the Crew who remained on the
+  Wreck. We name the Place of our Residence Mount Misery. Narrative of
+  Transactions there. Indians appear in Canoes off the Coast. Description
+  of them. Discontents amongst our People.
+
+  III. Unfortunate Death of Mr Cozens. Improper Conduct of Captain Cheap.
+  The Indians join us in a friendly Manner, but depart presently on
+  account of the Misconduct of our Men. Our Number dreadfully reduced by
+  Famine. Description of the various Contrivances used for procuring Food.
+  Further Transactions. Departure from the Island.
+
+  IV. Occurrences on our Voyage. We encounter bad Weather and various
+  Dangers and Distresses. Leave a Part of our Crew behind on a desert
+  Shore. A strange Cemetry discovered. Narrow Escape from Wreck. Return to
+  Mount Misery. We are visited by a Chanos Indian Cacique, who talks
+  Spanish, with whom we again take our Departure from the Island.
+
+  V. Navigation of the River. One of our Men dies from Fatigue. Inhumanity
+  of the Captain. Description of our Passage through a horrible and
+  desolate Country. Our Conductor leaves us, and a Party of our Men desert
+  with the Boat. Dreadful Situation of the Remainder. The Cacique returns.
+  Account of our Journey Overland. Kindness of two Indian Women.
+  Description of the Indian Mode of Fishing. Cruel Treatment of my Indian
+  Benefactress by her Husband.
+
+  VI. The Cacique's Conduct changes. Description of the Indian Mode of
+  Bird-fowling. Their Religion. Mr Elliot, our Surgeon, dies. Transactions
+  on our Journey. Miserable Situation to which we are reduced.
+
+  VII. We land on the Island of Chiloe. To our great Joy we at length
+  discover Something having the Appearance of a House. Kindness of the
+  Natives. We are delivered to the Custody of a Spanish Guard.
+  Transactions with the Spanish Residents. Arrival at Chaco. Manners of
+  the Inhabitants.
+
+  VIII. Adventure with the Niece of an old Priest at Castro. Superstition
+  of the People. The Lima Ship arrives, in which we depart for Valparaiso,
+  January 1743. Arrival at and Treatment there. Journey to Chili. Arrival
+  at St. Jago. Generous Conduct of a Scotch Physician. Description of the
+  City and of the People.
+
+  IX. Account of the Bull Feasts and other Amusements. Occurrences during
+  nearly two Years Residence. In December, 1744, we embark for Europe in
+  the Lys French Frigate. The Vessel leaky. Dangerous Voyage. Narrow
+  Escape from English Cruizers. Arrival in England. Conclusion
+
+APPENDIX, No. II. BULKELEY'S NARRATIVE.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+A GENERAL HISTORY AND COLLECTION OF VOYAGES AND TRAVELS.
+
+PART III. BOOK III. (CONTINUED.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V. CONTINUED.
+
+CAPTAIN KING'S JOURNAL OF THE TRANSACTIONS ON RETURNING TO THE SANDWICH
+ISLANDS.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION VI.
+
+
+General Account of the Sandwich Islands.--Their Number, Names, and
+Situation.--OWHYHEE.--Its Extent, and Division into Districts.--Account of
+its Coasts, and the adjacent Country.--Volcanic Appearances.--Snowy
+Mountains.--Their Height determined.--Account of a Journey into the
+Interior Parts of the Country.--MOWEE.--TAHOOROWA.--MOROTOI.--RANAI.--
+WOAHOO.--ATOOI.--ONEEHEOW.--OBEEHOUA.--TAHOORA.--Climate.--Winds.--
+Currents.--Tides.--Animals and Vegetables.--Astronomical
+Observations.[1]
+
+
+As we are now about to take our final leave of the Sandwich Islands, it
+will not be improper to introduce here some general account of their
+situation and natural history, and of the manners and customs of the
+inhabitants.
+
+This subject has indeed been, in some measure, preoccupied by persons far
+more capable of doing it justice than I can pretend to be. Had Captain Cook
+and Mr Anderson lived to avail themselves of the advantages which we
+enjoyed by a return to these islands, it cannot be questioned, that the
+public would have derived much additional information from the skill and
+diligence of two such accurate observers. The reader will therefore lament
+with me our common misfortune, which hath deprived him of the labours of
+such superior abilities, and imposed on me the task of presenting him with
+the best supplementary account the various duties of my station permitted
+me to furnish.
+
+This group consists of eleven islands, extending in latitude from 18° 54'
+to 22° 15' N., and in longitude from 199° 36' to 205° 06' E. They are
+called by the natives, 1. Owhyhee. 2. Mowee. 3. Ranai, or Oranai. 4.
+Morotinnee, or Morokinnee. 5. Kahowrowee, or Tahoorowa. 6. Morotoi, or
+Morokoi. 7. Woahoo, or Oahoo. 8. Atooi, Atowi, or Towi, and sometimes
+Kowi.[2] 9. Neeheehow, or Oneeheow. 10. Oreehona, or Reehoua; and, 11.
+Tahoora; and are all inhabited, excepting Morotinnee and Tahoora. Besides
+the islands above enumerated, we were told by the Indians, that there is
+another called Modoopapapa,[3] or Komodoopapapa, lying to the W.S.W. of
+Tahoora, which is low and sandy, and visited only for the purpose of
+catching turtle and sea-fowl; and, as I could never learn that they knew of
+any others, it is probable that none exist in their neighbourhood.
+
+They were named by Captain Cook the _Sandwich Islands_, in honour of
+the EARL OF SANDWICH, under whose administration he had enriched geography
+with so many splendid and important discoveries; a tribute justly due to
+that noble person for the liberal support these voyages derived from his
+power, in whatever could extend their utility, or promote their success;
+for the zeal with which he seconded the views of that great navigator; and,
+if I may be allowed to add the voice of private gratitude, for the generous
+protection, which, since the death of their unfortunate commander, he has
+afforded all the officers that served under him.
+
+Owhyhee, the easternmost, and by much the largest of these islands, is of a
+triangular shape, and nearly equilateral. The angular points make the
+north, east, and south extremities, of which the northern is in latitude
+20° 17' N., longitude 204° 02' E.; the eastern in latitude 19° 34' N.,
+longitude 205° 06' E.; and the southern extremity in latitude 18° 54' N.,
+longitude 204° 15' E. Its greatest length, which lies in a direction nearly
+north and south, is 23-1/2 leagues; its breadth is 24 leagues; and it is
+about 255 geographical, or 293 English miles in circumference. The whole
+island is divided into six large districts; Amakooa and Aheedoo, which lie
+on the north-east side; Apoona and Kaoo on the south-east; Akona and
+Koaarra on the west.
+
+The districts of Amakooa and Aheedoo are separated by a mountain called
+Mounah Kaah (or the mountain Kaah), which rises in three peaks, perpetually
+covered with snow, and may be clearly seen at 40 leagues distance.
+
+To the north of this mountain the coast consists of high and abrupt cliffs,
+down which fall many beautiful cascades of water. We were once flattered
+with the hopes of meeting with a harbour round a bluff head, in latitude
+20° 10' N., and longitude 204° 26' E.; but, on doubling the point, and
+standing close in, we found it connected by a low valley, with another high
+head to the north-west. The country rises inland with a gentle ascent, is
+intersected by deep narrow glens, or rather chasms, and appeared to be well
+cultivated and sprinkled over with a number of villages. The snowy mountain
+is very steep, and the lower part of it covered with wood.
+
+The coast of Aheedoo, which lies to the south of Mouna Kaah, is of a
+moderate height, and the interior parts appear more even than the country
+to the north-west, and less broken by ravines. Off these two districts we
+cruised for almost a month; and, whenever our distance from shore would
+permit it, were sure of being surrounded by canoes laden with all kinds of
+refreshments. We had frequently a very heavy sea, and great swell on this
+side of the island; and as we had no soundings, and could observe much foul
+ground off the shore, we never approached nearer the land than two or three
+leagues, excepting on the occasion already mentioned.
+
+The coast to the north-east of Apoona, which forms the eastern extremity of
+the island, is low and flat; the acclivity of the inland parts is very
+gradual, and the whole country covered with cocoa-nut and bread-fruit
+trees. This, as far as we could judge, is the finest part of the island,
+and we were afterward told that the king had a place of residence here. At
+the south-west extremity the hills rise abruptly from the sea side, leaving
+but a narrow border of low ground toward the beach. We were pretty near the
+shore at this part of the island, and found the sides of the hills covered
+with a fine verdure; but the country seemed to be very thinly inhabited. On
+doubling the east point of the island, we came in sight of another snowy
+mountain, called Mouna Roa (or the extensive mountain), which continued to
+be a very conspicuous object all the while we were sailing along the south-
+east side. It is flat at the top, making what is called by mariners table-
+land; the summit was constantly buried in snow, and we once saw its sides
+also slightly covered for a considerable way down; but the greatest part of
+this disappeared again in a few days.
+
+According to the tropical line of snow, as determined by Mr. Condamine,
+from observations taken on the Cordilleras, this mountain must be at least
+16,020 feet high, which exceeds the height of the Pico de Teyde, or Peak of
+Teneriffe, by 724 feet, according to Dr. Heberden's computation, or 3,680,
+according to that of the Chevalier de Borda. The peaks of Mouna Kaah
+appeared to be about half a mile high; and as they are entirely covered
+with snow, the altitude of their summits cannot be less than 18,400 feet.
+But it is probable that both these mountains may be considerably higher.
+For in insular situations, the effects of the warm sea air must necessarily
+remove the line of snow in equal latitudes, to a greater height than where
+the atmosphere is chilled on all sides by an immense tract of perpetual
+snow.
+
+The coast of Kaoo presents a prospect of the most horrid and dreary kind;
+the whole country appearing to have undergone a total change from the
+effects of some dreadful convulsion. The ground is every where covered with
+cinders, and intersected in many places with black streaks, which seem to
+mark the course of a lava that has flowed, not many ages back, from the
+mountain Roa to the shore. The southern promontory looks like the mere
+dregs of a volcano. The projecting head-land is composed of broken and
+craggy rocks, piled irregularly on one another, and terminating in sharp
+points.
+
+Notwithstanding the dismal aspect of this part of the island, there are
+many villages scattered over it, and it certainly is much more populous
+than the verdant mountains of Apoona. Nor is this circumstance hard to be
+accounted for. As these islanders have no cattle, they have consequently no
+use for pasturage, and therefore naturally prefer such ground as either
+lies more convenient for fishing, or is best suited to the cultivation of
+yams and plantains. Now amidst these ruins, there are many patches of rich
+soil, which are carefully laid out in plantations, and the neighbouring sea
+abounds with a variety of most excellent fish, with which, as well as with
+other provisions, we were always plentifully supplied. Off this part of the
+coast we could find no ground, at less than a cable's length from the
+shore, with a hundred and sixty fathoms of line, excepting in a small bight
+to the eastward of the south point, where we had regular soundings of fifty
+and fifty-eight fathoms over a bottom of fine sand. Before we proceed to
+the western districts, it may be necessary to remark, that the whole east
+side of the island, from the northern to the southern extremity, does not
+afford the smallest harbour or shelter for shipping.
+
+The south-west parts of Akona are in the same state with the adjoining
+district of Kaoo; but farther to the north, the country has been cultivated
+with great pains, and is extremely populous.
+
+In this part of the island is situated Karakakooa Bay, which has been
+already described. Along the coast nothing is seen but large masses of
+slag, and the fragments of black scorched rocks; behind which, the ground
+rises gradually for about two miles and a half, and appears to have been
+formerly covered with loose burnt stones. These the natives have taken the
+pains of clearing away, frequently to the depth of three feet and upward;
+which labour, great as it is, the fertility of the soil amply repays. Here
+in a rich ashy mould, they cultivate sweet potatoes and the cloth-plant.
+The fields are enclosed with stone-fences, and are interspersed with groves
+of cocoa-nut trees. On the rising ground beyond these, the bread-fruit
+trees are planted, and flourish with the greatest luxuriance.
+
+Koaara extends from the westernmost point to the northern extremity of the
+island; the whole coast between them forming an extensive bay, called Toe-
+yah-yah, which is bounded to the north by two very conspicuous hills.
+Toward the bottom of this bay there is foul corally ground, extending
+upward of a mile from the shore, without which the soundings are regular,
+with good anchorage, in twenty fathoms. The country, as far as the eye
+could reach, seemed fruitful and well inhabited, the soil being in
+appearance of the same kind with the district of Kaoo; but no fresh water
+is to be got here.
+
+I have hitherto confined myself to the coasts of this island, and the
+adjacent country, which is all that I had an opportunity of being
+acquainted with from my own observation. The only account I can give of the
+interior parts, is from the information I obtained from a party, who set
+out on the afternoon of the 26th of January, on an expedition up the
+country, with an intention of penetrating as far as they could; and
+principally of reaching, if possible, the snowy mountains.
+
+Having procured two natives to serve them as guides, they left the village
+about four o'clock in the afternoon, directing their course a little to the
+southward of the east. To the distance of three or four miles from the bay,
+they found the country as before described; the hills afterward rose with a
+more sudden ascent, which brought them to the extensive plantations that
+terminate the view of the country, as seen from the ships.
+
+These plantations consist of the tarrow[4], or eddy root, and the sweet
+potatoe, with plants of the cloth tree, neatly set out in rows. The walls
+that separate them are made of the loose burnt stones, which are got in
+clearing the ground; and being entirely concealed by sugar-canes, planted
+close on each side, make the most beautiful fences that can be conceived.
+The party stopped for the night at the second hut they found amongst the
+plantations, where they judged themselves to be about six or seven miles
+from the ships. They described the prospect from this spot as very
+delightful; they saw the ships in the bay before them; to the left a
+continued range of villages, interspersed with groves of cocoa-nut trees,
+spreading along the sea-shore; a thick wood stretching out of sight behind
+them; and to the right an extent of ground, laid out in regular and well-
+cultivated plantations, as far as the eye could reach.
+
+Near this spot, at a distance from any other dwelling, the natives pointed
+out to them the residence of a hermit, who, they said, had formerly been a
+great chief and warrior, but had long ago quitted the shores of the island,
+and now never stirred from his cottage. They prostrated themselves as they
+approached him, and afterward presented to him a part of such provisions as
+they had brought with them. His behaviour was easy and cheerful; he scarce
+shewed any marks of astonishment at the sight of our people, and though
+pressed to accept some of our curiosities, he declined the offer, and soon
+withdrew to his cottage. He was described as by far the oldest person any
+of the party had ever seen, and judged to be, by those who computed his age
+at the lowest, upward of 100 years old.
+
+As our people had imagined the mountain not to be more than ten or twelve
+miles from the bay, and consequently that they should reach it with ease
+early the next morning, an error into which its great height had probably
+led them, they were now much surprised to find the distance scarce
+perceptibly diminished. This circumstance, together with the uninhabited
+state of the country they were going to enter, made it necessary to procure
+a supply of provisions; and for that purpose they dispatched one of their
+guides back to the village. Whilst they were waiting his return, they were
+joined by some of Kaoo's servants, whom that benevolent old man had sent
+after them, as soon as he heard of their journey, laden with refreshments,
+and authorised, as their route lay through his grounds, to demand and take
+away whatever they might have occasion for.
+
+Our travellers were much astonished to find the cold here so intense; but
+having no thermometer with them, could judge of it only by their feelings,
+which, from the warm atmosphere they had left, must have been a very
+fallacious measure. They found it, however, so cold, that they could get
+but little sleep, and the natives none at all; both parties being
+disturbed, the whole night, by continued coughing. As they could not, at
+this time, be at any very considerable height, the distance from the sea
+being only six or seven miles, and part of the road on a very moderate
+ascent, this extraordinary degree of cold must be ascribed to the easterly
+wind blowing fresh over the snowy mountains.
+
+Early on the 27th they set out again, and filled their calibashes at an
+excellent well about half a mile from their hut. Having passed the
+plantations, they came to a thick wood, which they entered by a path made
+for the convenience of the natives, who go thither to fetch the wild or
+horse-plantain, and to catch birds. Their progress now became very slow,
+and attended with much labour; the ground being either swampy, or covered
+with large stones; the path narrow, and frequently interrupted by trees
+lying across it, which it was necessary to climb over, the thickness of the
+underwood on both sides making it impossible to pass round them. In these
+woods they observed, at small distances, pieces of white cloth fixed on
+poles, which they supposed to be land-marks for the division of property,
+as they only met with them where the wild plantains grew. The trees, which
+are of the same kind with those we called the spice-tree at New Holland,
+were lofty and straight, and from two to four feet in circumference.
+
+After they had advanced about ten miles in the wood, they had the
+mortification to find themselves, on a sudden, within sight of the sea, and
+at no great distance from it; the path having turned imperceptibly to the
+southward, and carried them to the right of the mountain, which it was
+their object to reach. Their disappointment was greatly increased by the
+uncertainty they were now under of its true bearings, since they could not,
+at this time, get a view of it from the top of the highest trees. They,
+therefore, found themselves obliged to walk back six or seven miles to an
+unoccupied hut, where they had left three of the natives and two of their
+own people, with the small stock that remained of their provisions. Here
+they spent the second night; and the air was so very sharp, and so little
+to the liking of their guides, that, by the morning, they had all departed,
+except one.
+
+The want of provisions now making it necessary to return to some of the
+cultivated parts of the island, they quitted the wood by the same path they
+had entered it; and, on their arrival at the plantations, were surrounded
+by the natives, of whom they purchased a fresh stock of necessaries; and
+prevailed upon two of them to supply the place of the guides that were gone
+away. Having obtained the best information in their power, with regard to
+the direction of their road, the party, being now nine in number, marched
+along the skirts of the wood for six or seven miles, and then entered it
+again by a path that bore to the eastward. For the first three miles they
+passed through a forest of lofty spice-trees, growing on a strong rich
+loam; at the back of which they found an equal extent of low shrubby trees,
+with much thick underwood, on a bottom of loose burnt stones. This led them
+to a second forest of spice-trees, and the same rich brown soil, which was
+again succeeded by a barren ridge of the same nature with the former. This
+alternate succession may, perhaps, afford matter of curious speculation to
+naturalists. The only additional circumstance I could learn relating to it
+was, that these ridges appeared, as far as they could be seen, to run in
+directions parallel to the sea-shore, and to have Mouna Roa for their
+centre.
+
+In passing through the woods they found many canoes half-finished, and here
+and there a hut; but saw none of the inhabitants. Having penetrated near
+three miles into the second wood, they came to two huts, where they
+stopped, exceedingly fatigued with the day's journey, having walked not
+less than twenty miles, according to their own computation. As they had met
+with no springs, from the time they left the plantation-ground, and began
+to suffer much from the violence of their thirst, they were obliged, before
+the night came on, to separate into parties, and go in search of water;
+and, at last, found some left by rain in the bottom of an unfinished canoe,
+which, though of the colour of red wine, was to them no unwelcome
+discovery. In the night, the cold was still more intense than they had
+found it before; and though they had wrapped themselves up in mats and
+cloths of the country, and kept a large fire between the two huts, they
+could yet sleep but very little, and were obliged to walk about the
+greatest part of the night. Their elevation was now probably pretty
+considerable, as the ground on which they had travelled had been generally
+on the ascent.
+
+On the 29th, at day-break, they set out, intending to make their last and
+utmost effort to reach the snowy mountain; but their spirits were much
+depressed, when they found they had expended the miserable pittance of
+water they had found the night before. The path, which extended no farther
+than where canoes had been built, was now at an end; and they were
+therefore obliged to make their way as well as they could; every now and
+then climbing up into the highest trees, to explore the country round. At
+eleven o'clock, they came to a ridge of burnt stones, from the top of which
+they saw the snowy mountain, appearing to be about twelve or fourteen miles
+from them.
+
+It was here deliberated, whether they should proceed any further, or rest
+satisfied with the view they now had of Mouna Rao. The road, ever since the
+path ceased, had become exceedingly fatiguing; and every step they advanced
+was growing still more so. The deep chinks, with which the ground was every
+where broken, being slightly covered with moss, made them stumble at almost
+every step; and the intermediate space was a surface of loose burnt stones,
+which broke under their feet like potsherds. They threw stones into several
+of these chinks, which, by the noise they made, seemed to fall to a
+considerable depth, and the ground sounded hollow under their feet. Besides
+these discouraging circumstances, they found their guides so averse to
+going on, that they believed, whatever their own determinations might have
+been, they could not have prevailed on them to remain out another night.
+They therefore at last agreed to return to the ships, after taking a view
+of the country, from the highest trees which the place afforded. From this
+elevation they saw themselves surrounded, on all sides, with wood toward
+the sea; they could not distinguish, in the horizon, the sky from the
+water; and between them and the snowy mountain, was a valley about seven or
+eight miles broad, above which the mountain appeared only as a hill of a
+moderate size.
+
+They rested this night at a hut in the second wood, and, on the 30th,
+before noon, they had got clear of the first, and found themselves about
+nine miles to the north-east of the ships, toward which they directed their
+march through the plantations. As they passed along, they did not observe a
+single spot of ground that was capable of improvement left unplanted; and
+indeed it appeared, from their account, hardly possible for the country to
+be cultivated to greater advantage for the purposes of the inhabitants, or
+made to yield them a larger supply of necessaries for their subsistence.
+They were surprised to meet with several fields of hay; and, on enquiring
+to what uses it was applied, were told, it was designed to cover the young
+tarrow grounds, in, order to preserve them from being scorched by the sun.
+They saw a few scattered huts amongst the plantations, which served for
+occasional shelter to the labourers; but no villages at a greater distance
+than four or five miles from the sea. Near one of them, about four miles
+from the bay, they found a cave, forty fathoms long, three broad, and of
+the same height. It was open at both ends; the sides were fluted, as if
+wrought with a chisel, and the surface glazed over, probably by the action
+of fire.
+
+Having given this account of the most material circumstances that occurred
+on the expedition to the snowy mountain, I shall now return to the other
+islands that remain to be described.
+
+The island next in size and nearest in situation to Owhyhee, is Mowee,
+which lies at the distance of eight leagues N.N.W. from the, former, and is
+one hundred and forty geographical miles in circumference. A low isthmus
+divides it into two circular peninsulas, of which that to the east is
+called Whamadooa, and is double the size of the western peninsula called
+Owhyrookoo. The mountains in both rise to an exceeding great height, having
+been seen by us at the distance of upward of thirty leagues. The northern
+shores, like those of Owhyhee, afford no soundings; and the country
+presents the same appearance of verdure and fertility. To the south-east,
+between this and the adjacent isles, we had regular depths with a hundred
+and fifty fathoms, with a sandy bottom. From the west point, which is low,
+runs a shoal, stretching out toward Ranai, to a considerable distance; and
+to the southward of this is a fine spacious bay, with a sandy beach, shaded
+with cocoa-nut trees. It is probable that good anchorage might be found
+here, with shelter from the prevailing winds, and that the beach affords a
+convenient place for landing. The country behind presents a most romantic
+appearance. The hills rise almost perpendicularly, in a great variety of
+peaked forms; and their steep sides, and the deep chasms between them, are
+covered with trees, amongst which those of the bread-fruit were observed
+particularly to abound. The tops of these hills are entirely bare, and of a
+reddish brown colour. We were informed by the natives that there is a
+harbour to the southward of the east point, which they affirmed to be
+superior to that of Karakakooa; and we were also told, that, on the north-
+west side, there was another harbour, called Keepookeepoo.
+
+Tahoorowa is a small island lying off the S.W. part of Mowee, from which it
+is distant three leagues. This island is destitute of wood, and the soil
+seems to be sandy and barren. Between Tahowrowa and Mowee lies the small
+uninhabited island Morrotinnee.
+
+Morotoi is only two leagues and a half from Mowee to the W.N.W. The south-
+western coast, which was the only part near which we approached, is very
+low, but the land rises backward to a considerable height; and, at the
+distance from which we saw it, appeared to be entirely without wood. Its
+produce, we are told, consists chiefly of yams. It may, probably, have
+fresh water, and on the south and west sides, the coast forms several bays
+that promise good shelter from the trade-winds.
+
+Ranai is about three leagues distant from Mowee and Morotoi, and lies to
+the S.W. of the passage between these islands. The country to the S. is
+high and craggy; but the other parts of the island had a better aspect, and
+appeared to be well inhabited. We were told that it produces very few
+plantains and bread-fruit trees; but that it abounds in roots, such as
+yams, sweet potatoes, and tarrow.
+
+Woahoo lies to the N.W. of Morotoi, at the distance of about seven leagues.
+As far as we could judge from the appearance of the N.E. and N.W. parts,
+(for we saw nothing of the southern side,) it is by far the finest island
+of the whole group. Nothing can exceed the verdure of the hills, the
+variety of wood and lawn, and rich cultivated vallies, which the whole face
+of the country displayed. Having already given a description of the bay,
+formed by the N. and W. extremities, in which we came to an anchor, I have
+only to observe, that in the bight of the bay, to the S. of the anchoring-
+place, we found rocky foul ground, two miles from the shore. Should the
+ground tackling of a ship be weak, and the wind blow strong from the N., to
+which quarter the road is entirely open, this circumstance might be
+attended with some danger; but with good cables there would be little risk,
+as the ground from the anchoring-place, which is opposite to the valley
+through which the river runs to the N. point, is a fine sand.
+
+Atooi lies to the N.W. of Woahoo, and is distant from it about twenty-five
+leagues. The face of the country to the N.E. and N.W., is broken and
+ragged, but to the S. it is more even; the hills rise with a gentle slope
+from the seaside, and, at some distance back, are covered with wood. Its
+productions are the same with those of the other islands; but the
+inhabitants far surpass all the neighbouring islanders in the management of
+their plantations. In the low grounds, adjoining to the bay where we lay at
+anchor, these plantations were divided by deep and regular ditches; the
+fences were made with a neatness approaching to elegance, and the roads
+through them were thrown up and finished in a manner that would have done
+credit to any European engineer.
+
+Oneeheow lies five leagues to the westward of Atooi. The eastern coast is
+high, and rises abruptly from the sea, but the rest of the island consists
+of low ground, excepting a round bluff head on the S.E. point. It produces
+abundance of yams, and of the sweet root called _Tee_, but we got from
+it no other sort of provisions.
+
+Oreehow aad Tahoora are two small islands in the neighbourhood of Oneeheow.
+The former is a single high hummock, joined by a reef of coral rocks to the
+northern extremity of Oneeheow. The latter lies to the S.W., and is
+uninhabited.
+
+The climate of the Sandwich islands differs very little from that of the
+West India islands, which lie in the same latitude. Upon the whole,
+perhaps, it may be rather more temperate. The thermometer on shore in
+Karakakooa Bay, never rose higher than 88°, and that but one day; its mean
+height at noon was 83°. In Wymoa Bay, its mean height at noon was 76°, and
+when out at sea 75°. The mean height of the thermometer at noon, in
+Jamaica, is about 86°, at sea 80°.
+
+Whether they be subject to the same violent winds and hurricanes, we could
+not discover, as we were not there in, any of the stormy months. However,
+as the natives gave us no positive testimony of the fact, and no traces of
+their effects were any where visible, it is probable that, in this respect,
+they resemble the Society and Friendly islands, which are, in a great
+measure, free from these dreadful visitations.
+
+During the four winter months that we remained amongst these islands, there
+was more rain, especially in the interior parts, than usually falls during
+the dry season in the islands of the West Indies. We generally saw clouds
+collecting round the tops of the hills, and producing rain to leeward; but
+after they are separated from the land by the wind, they disperse and are
+lost, and others succeed in their place. This happened daily at Owhyhee;
+the mountainous parts being generally enveloped in a cloud; successive
+showers falling in the inland country, with fine weather, and a clear sky
+at the sea-shore.
+
+The winds in general were from E.S.E. to N.E.; though they sometimes varied
+a few points each way to the N. and S, but these were light, and of short
+duration. In the harbour of Karakakooa we had a constant land and sea-
+breeze every day and night.
+
+The currents seemed very uncertain, sometimes setting to windward, and at
+other times to leeward, without any regularity. They did not appear to be
+governed by the winds, nor any other cause that I can assign; they
+frequently set to windward against a fresh breeze.
+
+The tides are very regular, flowing and ebbing six hours each. The flood
+comes from the eastward; and it is high water, at the full and change of
+the moon, forty-five minutes past three, apparent time. Their greatest rise
+is two feet seven inches; and we always observed the water to be four
+inches higher when the moon was above the horizon, than when it was below.
+
+The quadrupeds in these, as in all the other islands that have been
+discovered in the South Sea, are confined to three sorts, dogs, hogs, and
+rats. The dogs are of the same species with those of Otaheite, having short
+crooked legs, long backs, and pricked ears. I did not observe any variety
+in them, except in their skins, some having long and rough hair, and others
+being quite smooth. They are about the size of a common turnspit,
+exceedingly sluggish in their nature, though perhaps this may be more owing
+to the manner in which they are treated, than to any natural disposition in
+them. They are in general fed and left to herd with the hogs; and I do not
+recollect one instance in which a dog was made a companion in the manner we
+do in Europe. Indeed the custom of eating them is an inseparable bar to
+their admission into society; and, as there are neither beasts of prey in
+the island, nor objects of chase, it is probable that the social qualities
+of the dog, its fidelity, attachment, and sagacity, will remain unknown to
+the natives.
+
+The number of dogs in these islands did not appear to be nearly equal, in
+proportion, to those in Otaheite. But on the other hand, they abound much
+more in hogs; and the breed is of a larger and weightier kind. The supply
+of provisions of this kind which we got from them was really astonishing.
+We were near four months, either cruising off the coast, or in harbour at
+Owhyhee. During all this time, a large allowance of fresh pork was
+constantly served to both crews, so that our consumption was computed at
+about sixty puncheons of five hundred weight each. Besides this, and the
+incredible waste which, in the midst of such plenty, was not to be guarded
+against, sixty puncheons more were salted for sea-store. The greatest part
+of this supply was drawn from the island of Owhyhee alone, and yet we could
+not perceive that it was at all drained, or even that the abundance had any
+way decreased.
+
+The birds of these islands are as beautiful as any we have seen during the
+voyage, and are numerous, though not various. There are four, which seem to
+belong to the _trochili_, or honey-suckers of Linnæus; one of which is
+something larger than a bullfinch; its colour is a fine glossy black, the
+rump, vent, and thighs, a deep yellow. It is called by the natives
+_hoohoo_. Another is of an exceedingly bright scarlet colour; the
+wings black, and edged with white, and the tail black; its native name is
+_eeeeve_. A third, which seems to be either a young bird, or a variety
+of the foregoing, is variegated with red, brown, and yellow. The fourth is
+entirely green, with a tinge of yellow, and is called _akaiearooa_.
+There is a species of thrush, with a grey breast, and a small bird of the
+flycatcher kind; a rail, with very short wings and no tail, which, on that
+account, we named _rallus ecaudatus_. Ravens are found here, but they
+are very scarce; their colour is dark-brown, inclining to black, and their
+note is different from the European. Here are two small birds, both of one
+_genus_, that are very common; one is red, and generally seen about
+the cocoa-nut trees, particularly when they are in flower, from whence it
+seems to derive great part of its subsistence, the other is green; the
+tongues of both are long and ciliated, or fringed at the tip. A bird with a
+yellow head, which, from the structure of its beak, we called a parroquet,
+is likewise very common. It however by no means belongs to that tribe, but
+greatly resembles the _lexia flavicans_, or yellowish cross-bill of
+Linnæus.
+
+Here are also owls, plovers of two sorts, one very like the whistling
+plover of Europe; a large white pigeon; a bird with a long tail, whose
+colour is black, the vent and feathers under the wing (which is much longer
+than is usually seen in the generality of birds, except the birds of
+paradise) are yellow; and the common water or darker hen.
+
+Their vegetable productions are nearly the same with the rest of the South
+Sea islands. I have before mentioned. that the _tarrow_ root is much
+superior to any we had before tasted, and that we attributed this
+excellence to the dry method of cultivating it. The bread-fruit trees
+thrive here, not in such abundance, but produce double the quantity of
+fruit they do on the rich plains of Otaheite. The trees are nearly of the
+same height, but the branches begin to strike out from the trunk much
+lower, and with greater luxuriance. Their sugar-canes are also of a very
+unusual size. One of them was brought to us at Atooi, measuring eleven
+inches and a quarter in circumference, and having fourteen feet eatable.
+
+At Oneeheow they brought us several large roots of a brown colour, shaped
+like a yam, and from six to ten pounds in weight. The juice, which it
+yields in great abundance, is very sweet, and of a pleasant taste, and was
+found to be an excellent substitute for sugar. The natives are very fond of
+it, and use it as an article of their common diet; and our people also
+found it very palatable and wholesome. We could not learn to what species
+of plant it belonged, having never been able to procure the leaves; but it
+was supposed, by our botanists, to be the root of some kind of fern.
+
+Agreeably to the practice of Captain Cook, I shall subjoin an abstract of
+the astronomical observations which were made at the observatory in
+Karakakooa Bay, for determining its latitude and longitude, and for finding
+the rate and error of the time-keeper. To these are subjoined the mean
+variation of the compass, the dip of the magnetic needle, and a table of
+the latitude and longitude of the Sandwich Islands.
+
+
+The latitude of the observatory, deduced
+  from meridian zenith distances of the
+  sun, eleven stars to the south, and four
+  stars to the north of the zenith             19° 28' 0" N.
+The longitude of the observatory, deduced
+  from 253 sets of lunar observations;
+  each set consisting of six observed
+  distances of the moon from the
+  sun or stars; 14 of the above sets were
+  only taken at the observatory, 105 sets
+  being taken whilst cruising off Owhyhee,
+  and 134 sets when at Atooi and
+  Oneeheow, all these being reduced to
+  the observatory, by means of the timekeeper  204° 0' 0" E.
+The longitude of the observatory, by the
+  time-keeper, on the 19th January,
+  1779, according to its rate, as found
+  at Greenwich                                 214° 7' 15' E.
+The longitude of the observatory, by the
+  time-keeper, on the 19th January,
+  1779, according to its rate, corrected
+  at different places, and last at Samganoodha
+  Harbour, in Oonalaschka                       203° 37' 22" E.
+The daily rate of the time-keeper losing
+  on mean time, was 9",6; and, on the
+  2d February, 1779, it was 14^h 41' 1"
+  too slow for mean time.
+The variation of the compass, by azimuths,
+  observed on shore with four
+  different compasses                             8   6   0  E.
+The variation of the compass, by azimuths,
+  observed on board the Resolution,
+  with four different compasses                   7  32   0  E.
+Dip of the north        /Balanced needle\        40  22  30  E.
+  pole of the magnetic |                 |
+  needle on            | Unbalanced, or  |
+  shore, with           \ plain needle  /        40  41  15  E.
+Dip of the north        /Balanced needle\        41  50   0  E.
+  pole of the magnetic |                 |
+  needle on            |  Unbalanced     |       40  30   5  E.
+  board, with           \   needle      /
+
+
+_A Table of the Latitude and Longitude of the Sandwich Islands_.
+
+                                  Latitude.   Longitude.
+         /The north point         20°   17'   204°    2'
+Owhyhee | South point             18    55    204    15
+        | East point              19    35    205     6
+         \Karakakooa Bay          19    28    204     0
+         /East point              20    50    204     4
+Mowee   < South point             20    34    203    48
+         \West point              20    54    203    24
+Morokinnee                        20    39    203    33
+Tahoorowa                         20    38    203    27
+Kanai. South point                20    46    203     8
+Morotoi. West point               21    10    202    46
+Woahoo. Anchoring-place.          21    43    202     9
+Atooi. Wymoa Bay                  21    57    200    20
+Oneeheow. Anchoring-place.        21    50    199    45
+Oreehoua                          22     2    199    52
+Tahoora                           21    43    199    56
+
+
+[1] The general account of the Sandwich Islands given by Captain King, has
+    been substantially confirmed by subsequent voyagers. Some additional
+    particulars, not by any means very important, have resulted from their
+    enquiries, from which, of course, it had been easy to have enlarged
+    the present and two following sections, by supplementary notes. But no
+    good end would be answered by such a practice in the present case, as
+    the description in the text is abundantly complete for every important
+    purpose, and as it is probable, that, in the course of this work,
+    there will occur opportunities of communicating whatever is valuable
+    in the narratives of more recent voyagers.--E.
+
+[2] It is to be observed, that, among the windward islands, the _k_ is
+    used instead of the _t_, as _Morokoi_ instead of
+    _Morotoi_, &c.
+
+[3] _Modoo_ signifies island; _papapa_, flat. This island is
+    called _Tammatapappa_ by Captain Cook.
+
+[4] Both the sweet potatoes, and the tarrow, are here planted four feet
+    from each other; the former was earthed up almost to the top of the
+    stalk, with about half a bushel of light mould; the latter is left
+    bare to the root, and the mould round it is made in the form of a
+    basin, in order to hold the rain-water, as this root requires a
+    certain degree of moisture. It has been before observed, that the
+    tarrow, at the Friendly and Society Islands, was always planted in low
+    and moist situations, and generally where there was the convenience of
+    a rivulet to flood it. It was imagined that this mode of culture was
+    absolutely necessary; but we now found, that, with the precaution
+    above-mentioned, it succeeds equally well in a drier situation;
+    indeed, we all remarked, that the tarrow of the Sandwich Islands is
+    the best we had ever tasted. The plantains are not admitted in these
+    plantations: but grow amongst the bread-fruit trees.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION VII.
+
+
+General Account of the Sandwich Islands continued.--Of the Inhabitants.--
+Their Origin.--Persons.--Pernicious Effects of the Ava.--Numbers.--
+Disposition and Manners.--Reasons for supposing them not Cannibals.--Dress
+and Ornaments.--Villages and Houses.--Food.--Occupations and Amusements.--
+Addicted to Gaming.--Their extraordinary Dexterity in Swimming.--Arts and
+Manufactures.--Curious Specimens of their Sculpture.--Kipparee, or Method
+of Painting Cloth.--Mats.--Fishing Hooks.--Cordage.--Salt Pans.--Warlike
+Instruments.
+
+
+The inhabitants of the Sandwich Islands are undoubtedly of the same race
+with those of New Zealand, the Society and Friendly Islands, Easter Island,
+and the Marquesas; a race that possesses, without any intermixture, all the
+known lands between the latitudes of 47° S. and 20° N., and between the
+longitudes of 184° and 260° E. This fact, which, extraordinary as it is,
+might be thought sufficiently proved by the striking similarity of their
+manners and customs, and the general resemblance of their persons, is
+established, beyond all controversy, by the absolute identity of their
+language.
+
+From what continent they originally emigrated, and by what steps they have
+spread through so vast a space, those who are curious in disquisitions of
+this nature, may perhaps not find it very difficult to conjecture. It has
+been already observed, that they bear strong marks of affinity to some of
+the Indian tribes that inhabit the Ladrones and Caroline islands; and the
+same affinity may again be traced amongst the Battas and Malays. When these
+events happened, is not so easy to ascertain; it was probably not very
+lately, as they are extremely populous, and have no tradition of their own
+origin, but what is perfectly fabulous; whilst, on the other hand, the
+unadulterated state of their general language, and the similarity which
+still prevails in their customs and manners, seem to indicate that it could
+not have been at any very distant period.[5]
+
+The natives of these islands are in general above the middle size, and well
+made; they walk very gracefully, run nimbly, and are capable of bearing
+great fatigue; though, upon the whole, the men are somewhat inferior, in
+point of strength and activity, to the Friendly islanders, and the women
+less delicately limbed than those of Otaheite. Their complexion is rather
+darker than that of the Otaheitans, and they are not altogether so handsome
+a people. However, many of both sexes had fine open countenances, and the
+women, in particular, had good eyes and teeth, and a sweetness and
+sensibility of look, which rendered them very engaging. Their hair is of a
+brownish black, and neither uniformly straight, like that of the Indians of
+America, nor uniformly curling, as amongst the African negroes, but varying
+in this respect like the hair of Europeans. One striking peculiarity in the
+features of every part of this great nation, I do not remember to have seen
+any where mentioned; which is, that even in the handsomest faces, there is
+always a fulness of the nostrils, without any flatness or spreading of the
+nose, that distinguishes them from Europeans. It is not improbable that
+this may be the effect of their usual mode of salutation, which is
+performed by pressing the ends of their noses together.
+
+The same superiority that is observable in the persons of the _Erees_,
+through all the other islands, is found also here. Those whom we saw were,
+without exception, perfectly well formed; whereas the lower sort, besides
+their general inferiority, are subject to all the variety of make and
+figure that is seen in the populace of other countries. Instances of
+deformity are more frequent here than in any of the other islands. Whilst
+we were cruising off Owhyhee, two dwarfs came on board, one an old man,
+four feet two inches high, but exactly proportioned, and the other a woman,
+nearly of the same height. We afterward saw three natives who were hump-
+backed, and a young man born without hands or feet. Squinting is also very
+common amongst them; and a man who, they said, had been born blind, was
+brought to us to be cured. Besides these particular imperfections, they
+are, in general, very subject to boils and ulcers, which we attributed to
+the great quantity of salt they eat with their flesh and fish. The _Erees_
+are very free from these complaints, but many of them suffer still more
+dreadful effects from the immoderate use of the _ava_. Those who were the
+most affected by it, had their bodies covered with a white scurf, their
+eyes red and inflamed, their limbs emaciated, the whole frame trembling and
+paralytic, accompanied with a disability to raise the head. Though this
+drug does not appear universally to shorten life, as was evident from the
+cases of Terreeoboo, Kaoo, and some other chiefs, who were very old men,
+yet it invariably brings on an early and decrepid old age. It is fortunate
+that the use of it is made one of the peculiar privileges of the chiefs.
+The young son of Terreeoboo, who was about twelve years old, used to boast
+of his being admitted to drink _ava_, and shewed us, with great triumph, a
+small spot in his side that was growing scaly.
+
+There is something very singular in the history of this pernicious drug.
+When Captain Cook first visited the Society Islands, it was very little
+known among them. On his second voyage, he found the use of it very
+prevalent at Ulietea, but it had still gained very little ground at
+Otaheite. When we were last there, the dreadful havoc it had made was
+beyond belief, insomuch, that the captain scarce knew many of his old
+acquaintances. At the Friendly Islands, it is also constantly drunk by the
+chiefs, but so much diluted with water, that it does not appear to produce
+any bad effects. At Atooi, also, it is used with great moderation, and the
+chiefs are, in consequence, a much finer set of men there than in any of
+the neighbouring islands. We remarked, that, by discontinuing the use of
+this root, the noxious effects of it soon wore off. Our good friends,
+Kaireekeea and old Kaoo, were persuaded by us to refrain from it, and they
+recovered amazingly during the short time we afterward remained in the
+island.
+
+It may be thought extremely difficult to form any probable conjectures
+respecting the population of islands, with many parts of which we are but
+imperfectly acquainted. There are, however, two circumstances that take
+away much of this objection; the first is, that the interior parts of the
+country are entirely uninhabited; so that, if the number of the inhabitants
+along the coast be known, the whole will be pretty accurately determined.
+The other is, that there are no towns of any considerable size; the
+habitations of the natives being pretty equally dispersed in small villages
+round all their coasts. It is on this ground that I shall venture at a
+rough calculation of the number of persons in this group of islands.
+
+The bay of Karakakooa, in Owhyhee, is three miles in extent, and contains
+four villages of about eighty houses each, upon an average, in all three
+hundred and twenty; besides a number of straggling houses, which may make
+the whole amount to three hundred and fifty. From the frequent
+opportunities I had of informing myself on this head, I am convinced that
+six persons to a house is a very moderate allowance; so that, on this
+calculation, the country about the bay contains two thousand one hundred
+souls. To these may be added fifty families, or three hundred persons,
+which I conceive to be nearly the number employed in the interior parts of
+the country amongst their plantations, making in all two thousand four
+hundred. If, therefore, this number be applied to the whole extent of the
+coast round the island, deducting a quarter for the uninhabited parts, it
+will be found to contain one hundred and fifty thousand. By the same mode
+of calculation, the rest of the islands will be found to contain the
+following numbers:--
+
+
+Owhyhee                     150,000
+Mowee                        65,400
+Woahoo                       60,200
+Atooi                        54,000
+Moroloi                      36,000
+Oneeheow                     10,000
+Ranai                        20,400
+Preehoua                      4,000
+
+      Total of inhabitants  400,000
+
+
+I am pretty confident, that in this calculation I have not exceeded the
+truth in the total amount. If we compare the numbers supposed to be in
+Owhyhee, with the population of Otaheite, as settled by Dr. Forster, this
+computation will be found very low. The proportion of coast in the latter
+island is to that of Owhyhee, only as one to three; the number of
+inhabitants at Otaheite he states to be one hundred and twenty-one thousand
+five hundred; though, according to his own principles, it should be double
+that amount. Again, if we compare it with the medium population of the
+countries in Europe, the proportion will be in favour of the latter nearly
+as two to one.[6]
+
+Notwithstanding the irreparable loss we suffered from the sudden resentment
+and violence of these people, yet, in justice to their general conduct, it
+must be acknowledged, that they are of the most mild and affectionate
+disposition; equally remote from the extreme levity and fickleness of the
+Otaheitans, and the distant gravity and reserve of the inhabitants of the
+Friendly Islands. They appear to live in the utmost harmony and friendship
+with one another. The women, who had children, were remarkable for their
+tender and constant attention to them; and the men would often lend their
+assistance in those domestic offices, with a willingness that does credit
+to their feelings.
+
+It must however be observed, that they fall very short of the other
+islanders, in that best test of civilization, the respect paid to the
+women. Here they are not only deprived of the privilege of eating with the
+men, but the best sorts of food are _tabooed_, or forbidden them. They are
+not allowed to eat pork, turtle, several kinds of fish, and some species of
+the plantains; and we were told that a poor girl got a terrible beating for
+having eaten, on board our ship, one of these interdicted articles. In
+their domestic life, they appear to live almost entirely by themselves, and
+though we did not observe any instances of personal ill treatment, yet it
+was evident they had little regard or attention paid them.
+
+The great hospitality and kindness with which we were received by them,
+have been already frequently remarked; and indeed they make the principal
+part of our transactions with them. Whenever we came on shore, there was a
+constant struggle who should be most forward in making us little presents,
+bringing refreshments, or shewing some other mark of their respect. The old
+people never failed of receiving us with tears of joy; seemed highly
+gratified with being allowed to touch us, and were constantly making
+comparisons between themselves and us, with the strongest marks of
+humility. The young women were not less kind and engaging, and till they
+found, notwithstanding our utmost endeavours to prevent it, that they had
+reason to repent of our acquaintance, attached themselves to us without the
+least reserve.
+
+In justice however to the sex, it must be observed, that these ladies were
+probably all of the lower class of the people; for I am strongly inclined
+to believe, that excepting the few whose names are mentioned in the course
+of our narrative, we did not see any woman of rank during our stay amongst
+them.
+
+Their natural capacity seems, in no respect, below the common standard of
+mankind. Their improvements in agriculture, and the perfection of their
+manufactures, are certainly adequate to the circumstances of their
+situation, and the natural advantages they enjoy. The eager curiosity with
+which they attended the armourer's forge, and the many expedients they had
+invented, even before we left the islands, for working the iron they had
+procured from us, into such forms as were best adapted to their purposes,
+were strong proofs of docility and ingenuity.
+
+Our unfortunate friend, Kaneena, possessed a degree of judicious curiosity,
+and a quickness of conception, which was rarely met with amongst these
+people. He was very inquisitive after our customs and manners, asked after
+our king, the nature of our government, our numbers, the method of building
+our ships, our houses, the produce of our country, whether we had wars,
+with whom, and on what occasions, and in what manner they were carried on,
+who was our God, and many other questions of the same nature, which
+indicated an understanding of great comprehension.
+
+We met with two instances of persons disordered in their minds; the one a
+man at Owhyhee, the other a woman at Oneeheow. It appeared, from the
+particular attention and respect paid to them, that the opinion of
+their being inspired by the Divinity, which obtains among most of the
+nations of the east, is also received here.
+
+Though the custom of eating the bodies of their enemies be not known, by
+positive evidence, to exist in any of the South Sea islands, except New
+Zealand, yet it is extremely probable, that it was originally prevalent in
+them all. The sacrificing human victims, which seems evidently to be a
+relic of this horrid practice, still obtains universally amongst these
+islanders; and it is easy to conceive, why the New Zealanders should retain
+the repast, which was probably the last act of these shocking rites, longer
+than the rest of their, tribe, who were situated in more mild and fruitful
+climates. As the inhabitants of the Sandwich islands certainly bear a
+nearer resemblance to those of New Zealand, both in their persons and
+disposition, than to any other people of this family, so it was strongly
+suspected by Mr. Anderson, that, like them, they still continue to feast on
+human flesh. The evidence on which he founds this opinion, has been stated
+very fully in the tenth section of the third chapter; but, as I always
+entertained great doubts of the justice of his conclusions, it may not be
+improper to take this occasion of mentioning the grounds on which I venture
+to differ from him. With respect to the information derived from the
+natives themselves, I shall only observe, that great pains were taken, by
+almost every officer on board, to come at the knowledge of so curious a
+circumstance; and that except in the two instances mentioned by Mr.
+Anderson, we found them invariably denying the existence of any such custom
+amongst them. It must be allowed, that Mr. Anderson's knowledge of their
+language, which was superior to that of any other person in either ship,
+ought certainly to give his opinion great weight; at the same time, I must
+beg leave to remark, that being present when he examined the man who had
+the small piece of salted flesh wrapped in cloth, it struck me very
+forcibly, that the signs he made use of meant nothing more, than that it
+was intended to be eat, and that it was very pleasant or wholesome to the
+stomach. In this opinion I was confirmed, by a circumstance which came to
+our knowledge, after the death of my worthy and ingenious friend, viz. that
+almost every native of these islands carried about with him, either in his
+calibash, or wrapped up in a piece of cloth, and tied about his waist, a
+small piece of raw pork, pork, highly salted, which they considered as a
+great delicacy, and used now and then to taste of. With respect to the
+confusion the young lad was in, (for he was not more than sixteen or
+eighteen years of age,) no one could have been surprised at it, who had
+seen the eager and earnest manner in which Mr. Anderson questioned him.
+
+The argument drawn from the instrument made with sharks' teeth, and which
+is nearly of the same form with those used at New Zealand for cutting up
+the bodies of their enemies, is much more difficult to controvert. I
+believe it to be an undoubted fact, that this knife, if it may be so
+called, is never used by them in cutting the flesh of other animals.
+However, as the custom of offering human sacrifices, and of burning the
+bodies of the slain, is still prevalent here, it is not improbable that the
+use of this instrument is retained in those ceremonies. Upon the whole, I
+am strongly inclined to think, and particularly from this last
+circumstance, that the horrid practice in question, has but lately ceased
+amongst these and other islands of the South Sea. Omai, when pressed on
+this subject, confessed that in the rage and fury of revenge, they would
+sometimes tear the flesh of their enemies that were slain with their teeth;
+but positively denied that they ever eat it. This was certainly approaching
+as near the fact as could be; but, on the other hand, the denial is a
+strong proof that the practice has actually ceased; since in New Zealand,
+where it still exists, the inhabitants neyer made the smallest scruple of
+confessing it.[7]
+
+The inhabitants of these islands differ from those of the Friendly Isles,
+in suffering, almost universally, their beards to grow. There were indeed a
+few, amongst whom was the old king, that cut it off entirely; and others
+that wore it only upon the upper lip. The same variety, in the manner of
+wearing the hair, is also observable here, as among the other islanders of
+the South Sea; besides which, as far as we know, they have a fashion
+peculiar to themselves. They cut it close on each side the head, down to
+the ears, leaving a ridge of about a small hand's breadth, running from the
+forehead to the neck; which, when the hair is thick and curling, has the
+form of the crest of the ancient helmet. Others wear large quantities of
+false hair, flowing down their backs in long ringlets, like the figure of
+the inhabitants of Horn Island, as seen in Dalrymple's Voyages; and others,
+again, tie it into a single round bunch on the top of the head, almost as
+large as the head itself, and some into five or six distinct bunches. They
+daub their hair with a grey clay, mixed with powdered shells, which they
+keep in balls, and chew into a kind of soft paste, when they have occasion
+to make use of it. This keeps the hair smooth, and in time changes it to a
+pale yellow colour.
+
+Both sexes wear necklaces, made of strings of small variegated shells; and
+an ornament, in the form of the handle of a cup, about two inches long, and
+half an inch broad, made of wood, stone, or ivory, finely polished, which
+is hung about the neck by fine threads of twisted hair, doubled sometimes
+an hundred fold. Instead of this ornament, some of them wear on their
+breast a small human figure made of bone, suspended in the same manner.
+
+The fan, or fly-flap, is also an ornament used by both sexes. The most
+ordinary kind are made of the fibres of the cocoa-nut, tied loose in
+bunches to the top of a smooth polished handle. The tail-feathers of the
+cock, and of the tropic-bird, are also used in the same manner; but the
+most valuable are those which have the handle made of the arm or leg bones
+of an enemy slain in battle, and which are preserved with great care, and
+handed down from father to son, as trophies of inestimable value.
+
+The custom of _tattowing_ the body, they have in common with the rest of
+the natives of the South Sea islands; but it is only at New Zealand and the
+Sandwich Islands, that they _tattow_ the face. There is also this
+difference between the two last, that in the former it is done in elegant
+spiral volutes, and in the latter in straight lines, crossing each, other
+at right angles. The hands and arms of the women are also very neatly
+marked, and they have a singular custom amongst them, the meaning of which
+we could never learn, that of _tallowing_ the tip of the tongues of the
+females.
+
+From some information we received, relative to the custom of _tattowing_,
+we were inclined to think, that it is frequently intended as a sign of
+mourning on the death of a chief, or any other calamitous event. For we
+were often, told, that such a particular mark was in memory of such a
+chief, and so of the rest. It may be here too observed, that the lowest
+class are often _tattowed_ with a mark, that distinguishes them as the
+property of the several chiefs to whom they belong.[8]
+
+The dress of the men generally consists only of a piece of thick cloth
+called the _maro_, about ten or twelve inches broad, which they pass
+between the legs, and tie round the waist. This is the common dress of all
+ranks of people. Their mats, some of which are beautifully manufactured,
+are of various sizes, but mostly about five feet long and four broad. These
+they throw over their shoulders, and bring forward before; but they are
+seldom used, except in time of war, for which purpose they seem better
+adapted than for ordinary use, being of a thick and cumbersome texture, and
+capable of breaking the blow of a stone, or any blunt weapon. Their feet
+are generally bare, except when they have occasion to travel over the burnt
+stones, when they secure them with a sort of sandal, made of cords, twisted
+from the fibres of the cocoa-nut. Such is the ordinary dress of these
+islanders; but they have another, appropriated to their chiefs, and used on
+ceremonious occasions, consisting of a feathered cloak and helmet, which,
+in point of beauty and magnificence, is perhaps nearly equal to that of any
+nation in the world. As this dress has been already described with great
+accuracy and minuteness, I have only to add, that these cloaks are made of
+different lengths, in proportion to the rank of the wearer, some of them
+reaching no lower than the middle, others trailing on the ground. The
+inferior chiefs have also a short cloak, resembling the former, made of the
+long tail-feathers of the cock, the tropic and man-of-war birds, with a
+broad border of the small red and yellow feathers, and a collar of the
+same. Others again are made of feathers entirely white, with variegated
+borders. The helmet has a strong lining of wicker-work, capable of breaking
+the blow of any warlike instrument, and seems evidently designed for that
+purpose.
+
+These feathered dresses seemed to be exceedingly scarce, appropriated to
+persons of the highest rank, and worn by the men only. During the whole
+time we lay in Karakakooa Bay, we never saw them used but on three
+occasions; in the curious ceremony of Terreeoboo's first visit to the
+ships; by some chiefs, who were seen among the crowd on shore when Captain
+Cook was killed, and afterward when Eappo brought his bones to us.
+
+The exact resemblance between this habit, and the cloak and helmet formerly
+worn by the Spaniards, was too striking not to excite our curiosity to
+enquire, whether there were any probable grounds for supposing it to have
+been borrowed from them. After exerting every means in our power of
+obtaining information on this subject, we found that they had no immediate
+knowledge of any other nation whatever, nor any tradition remaining among
+them of these islands having been ever visited before by such ships as
+ours. But, notwithstanding the result of these enquiries, the uncommon form
+of this habit appears to me a sufficient proof of its European origin,
+especially when added to another circumstance, that it is a singular
+deviation from the general resemblance in dress, which prevails amongst all
+the branches of this tribe, dispersed through the South Sea. We were driven
+indeed, by this conclusion, to a supposition of the shipwreck of some
+Buccaneer, or Spanish ship, in the neighbourhood of these islands. But when
+it is recollected, that the course of the Spanish trade from Acapulco to
+the Manillas is but a few degrees to the southward of the Sandwich Islands
+in their passage out, and to the northward on their return, this
+supposition will not appear in the least improbable.[9]
+
+The common dress of the women bears a close resemblance to that of the men.
+They wrap round the waist a piece of cloth, that reaches half way down the
+thighs; and sometimes in the cool of the evening they appeared with loose
+pieces of fine cloth, thrown over their shoulders, like the women of
+Otaheite. The _pau_ is another dress very frequently worn by the younger
+part of the sex. It is made of the thinnest and finest sort of cloth, wrapt
+several times round the waist, and descending to the leg, so as to have
+exactly the appearance of a full short petticoat. The hair is cut short
+behind, and turned up before, as is the fashion among the Otaheiteans and
+New Zealanders; all of whom differ, in this respect, from the women of the
+Friendly Islands, who wear their hair long. We saw, indeed, one woman in
+Karakakooa Bay, Whose hair was arranged in a very singular manner; it was
+turned up behind, and brought over the forehead, and then doubled back, so
+as to form a sort of a shade to the face, like a small bonnet.
+
+Their necklaces are made of shells, or of a hard shining red berry. Besides
+which, they wear wreaths of dried flowers of the Indian mallow; and another
+beautiful ornament called _eraie_, which is generally put about the neck,
+but is sometimes tied like a garland round the hair, and sometimes worn in
+both these ways at once. It is a ruff, of the thickness of a finger, made
+in a curious manner, of exceedingly small feathers, woven so close together
+as to form a surface as smooth as that of the richest velvet. The ground
+was generally of a red colour, with alternate circles of green, yellow, and
+black. Their bracelets, which were also of great variety, and very peculiar
+kinds, have been already described.
+
+At Atooi, some of the women wore little figures of the turtle, neatly
+formed of wood or ivory, tied on their fingers in the manner we wear rings.
+Why this animal is thus particularly distinguished, I leave to the
+conjectures of the curious. There is also an ornament, made of shells,
+fastened in rows on a ground of strong netting, so as to strike each other
+when in motion; which both men and women, when they dance, tie either round
+the arm or the ankle, or below the knee. Instead of shells, they sometimes
+make use of dog's teeth, and a hard red berry, resembling that of the
+holly.
+
+There remains to be mentioned another ornament (if such it may be called),
+which is a kind of mask, made of a large gourd, with holes cut in it for
+the eyes and nose. The top was stuck full of small green twigs, which, at a
+distance, had the appearance of an elegant waving plume; and from the lower
+part hung narrow stripes of cloth, resembling a beard. We never saw these
+masks worn but twice, and both times by a number of people together in a
+canoe, who came to the side of the ship, laughing and drolling, with an air
+of masquerading. Whether they may not likewise be used as a defence for the
+head against stones, for which, they seem best designed; or in some of
+their public games; or be merely intended for the purposes of mummery, we
+could never inform ourselves.
+
+It has already been remarked, in a few instances, that the natives of the
+Sandwich Islands approach nearer to the New Zealanders in their manners and
+customs, than to either of their less distant neighbours of the Society or
+Friendly Islands. This is in nothing more observable than in their method
+of living together in small towns or villages, containing from about one
+hundred to two hundred houses, built pretty close together, without any
+order, and having a winding path leading through them. They are generally
+flanked, toward the sea, with loose detached walls, which, probably, are
+meant both for the purposes of shelter and defence. The figure of their
+houses has been already described. They are of different sizes, from
+eighteen feet by twelve, to forty-five by twenty-four. There are some of a
+larger kind, being fifty feet long and thirty broad, and quite open at one
+end. These, they told us, were designed for travellers or strangers, who
+were only making a short stay.
+
+In addition to the furniture of their houses, which has been accurately
+described by Captain Cook, I have only to add, that at one end are mats on
+which they sleep, with wooden pillows, or sleeping stools, exactly like
+those of the Chinese. Some of the better sort of houses have a courtyard
+before them, neatly railed in, with smaller houses built round it, for
+their servants. In this _area_ they generally eat, and sit during the day-
+time. In the sides of the hills, and among the steep rocks, we also
+observed several holes or caves, which appeared to be inhabited; but as the
+entrance was defended with wicker-work, and we also found, in the only one
+that was visited, a stone-fence running across it within, we imagine they
+are principally designed for places of retreat, in case of an attack from
+an enemy.
+
+The food of the lower class of people consists principally of fish and
+vegetables, such as yams, sweet-potatoes, tarrow, plantains, sugar-canes,
+and bread-fruit. To these the people of a higher rank add the flesh of hogs
+and dogs, dressed in the same manner as at the Society Islands. They also
+eat fowls of the same domestic kind with ours; but they are neither
+plentiful nor much esteemed by them. It is remarked by Captain Cook, that
+the bread-fruit and yams appeared scarce amongst them, and were reckoned
+great rarities. We found this not to be the case on our second visit; and
+it is therefore most probable, that, as these vegetables were generally
+planted in the interior parts of the country, the natives had not had time
+to bring them down to us during the short stay we made at Wymoa Bay. Their
+fish, they salt, and preserve in gourd-shells; not, as we at first
+imagined, for the purpose of providing against any temporary scarcity, but
+from the preference they give to salted meats. For we also found, that the
+_Erees_ used to pickle pieces of pork in the same manner, and esteemed it a
+great delicacy.
+
+Their cookery is exactly of the same sort with that already described in
+the accounts that have been published of the other South Sea islands; and
+though Captain Cook complains of the sourness of their tarrow puddings,
+yet, in justice to the many excellent meals they afforded us in Karakakooa
+Bay, I must be permitted to rescue them from this general censure, and to
+declare, that I never eat better even in the Friendly Islands. It is
+however remarkable, that they had not got the art of preserving the bread-
+fruit, and making the sour paste of it called _Maihee_, as at the Society
+Islands; and it was some satisfaction to as, in return for their great
+kindness and hospitality, to have it in our power to teach them this useful
+secret. They are exceedingly cleanly at their meals; and their mode of
+dressing both their animal and vegetable food was universally allowed to be
+greatly superior to ours. The chiefs constantly begin their meal with a
+dose of the extract of pepper-root, brewed after the usual manner. The
+women eat apart from the men, and are _tabooed_, or forbidden, as has been
+already mentioned, the use of pork, turtle, and particular kinds of
+plantains. However, they would eat pork with us in private; but we could
+never prevail upon them to touch the two last articles.
+
+The way of spending their time appears to be very simple, and to admit of
+little variety. They rise with the sun; and, after enjoying the cool of the
+evening, retire to rest a few hours after sun-set. The making of canoes and
+mats forms the occupations of the _Erees_; the women are employed in
+manufacturing cloth; and the _Towtows_ are principally engaged in the
+plantations and fishing. Their idle hours are filled up with various
+amusements. Their young men and women are fond of dancing; and on more
+solemn occasions, they have boxing and wrestling matches, after the manner
+of the Friendly Islands; though, in all these respects, they are much
+inferior to the latter.
+
+Their dances have a much nearer resemblance to those of the New Zealanders
+than of the Otaheiteans or Friendly Islanders. They are prefaced with a
+slow, solemn song, in which all the party join, moving their legs, and
+gently striking their breasts, in a manner, and with attitudes, that are
+perfectly easy and graceful; and so far they are the same with the dancers
+of the other Society Islands. When this has lasted about ten minutes, both
+the tune and motions gradually quicken, and end only by their inability to
+support the fatigue; which part of the performance is the exact counterpart
+of that of the New Zealanders; and (as it is among them) the person who
+uses the most violent action, and holds out the longest, is applauded as
+the best dancer. It is to be observed, that, in this dance, the women only
+take a part; and that the dancing of the men is nearly of the same kind
+with what we saw of the small parties at the Friendly Islands; and which
+may, perhaps, with more propriety, be called the accompaniment of songs,
+with corresponding and graceful motions of the whole body. Yet, as we were
+spectators of boxing exhibitions, of the same kind with those we were
+entertained with at the Friendly Islands, it is probable that they had
+likewise their grand ceremonious dances, in which numbers of both sexes
+assisted.
+
+Their music is also of a ruder kind, having neither flutes nor reeds, nor
+instruments of any other sort, that we saw, except drums of various sizes.
+But their songs, which they sung in parts,[10] and accompany with a gentle
+motion of the arms, in the same manner as the Friendly Islanders, had a
+very pleasing effect.
+
+It is very remarkable that the people of these islands are great gamblers.
+They have a game very much like our draughts; but if one may judge from the
+number of squares, it is much more intricate. The board is about two feet
+long, and is divided into two hundred and thirty-eight squares, of which
+there are fourteen in a row; and they make use of black and white pebbles,
+which they move from square to square.
+
+There is another game, which consists in hiding a stone under a piece of
+cloth, which one of the parties spreads out, and rumples in such a manner
+that the place where the stone lies is difficult to be distinguished. The
+antagonist, with a stick, then strikes the part of the cloth where he
+imagines the stone to be; and as the chances are, upon the whole,
+considerably against his hitting it, odds, of all degrees, varying with the
+opinion of the skill of the parties, are laid on the side of him who hides.
+
+Besides these games, they frequently amuse themselves with racing matches
+between the boys and girls; and here, again, they wager with great spirit.
+I saw a man in a most violent rage, tearing his hair, and beating his
+breast, after losing three hatchets at one of these races, which he had
+just before purchased from us with half his substance.
+
+Swimming is not only a necessary art, in which both their men and women are
+more expert than any people we had hitherto seen, but a favourite diversion
+amongst them. One particular mode, in which they sometimes amused
+themselves with this exercise, in Karakakooa Bay, appeared to us most
+perilous and extraordinary, and well deserving a distinct relation.
+
+The surf, which breaks on the coast round the bay, extends to the distance
+of about one hundred and fifty yards from the shore, within which space the
+surges of the sea, accumulating from the shallowness of the water, are
+dashed against the beach with prodigious violence. Whenever, from stormy
+weather, or any extraordinary swell at sea, the impetuosity of the surf is
+increased to its utmost height, they choose that time for this amusement,
+which is performed in the following manner: Twenty or thirty of the
+natives, taking each a long narrow board, rounded at the ends, set out
+together from the shore. The first wave they meet they plunge under, and,
+suffering it to roll over them, rise again beyond it, and make the best of
+their way, by swimming out into the sea. The second wave is encountered in
+the same manner with the first; the great difficulty consisting in seizing
+the proper moment of diving under it, which, if missed, the person is
+caught by the surf, and driven back again with great violence; and all his
+dexterity is then required to prevent himself from being dashed against the
+rocks. As soon as they have gained, by these repeated efforts, the smooth
+water beyond the surf, they lay themselves at length on their board, and
+prepare themselves for their return. As the surf consists of a number of
+waves, of which every third is remarked to be always much larger than the
+others, and to flow higher on the shore, the rest breaking in the
+intermediate space, their first object is to place themselves on the summit
+of the largest surge, by which they are driven along with amazing rapidity
+toward the shore. If, by mistake, they should place themselves on one of
+the smaller waves, which breaks before they reach the land, or should not
+be able to keep their plank in a proper direction on the top of the swell,
+they are left exposed to the fury of the next, and, to avoid it, are
+obliged again to dive, and regain the place from which they set out. Those
+who succeed in their object of reaching the shore, have still the greatest
+danger to encounter. The coast being guarded by a chain of rocks, with here
+and there a small opening between them, they are obliged to steer their
+board through one of these, or, in case of failure, to quit it before they
+reach the rocks, and, plunging under the wave, make the best of their way
+back again. This is reckoned very disgraceful, and is also attended with
+the loss of the board, which I have often seen, with great terror, dashed
+to pieces, at the very moment the islander quitted it. The boldness and
+address with which we saw them perform these difficult and dangerous
+manoeuvres, were altogether astonishing, and is scarcely to be
+credited.[11]
+
+An accident, of which I was a near spectator, shews at how early a period
+they are so far familiarized to the water, as both to lose all fears of it,
+and to set its dangers at defiance. A canoe being overset, in which was a
+woman with her children, one of them an infant, who, I am convinced, was
+not more than four years old, seemed highly delighted with what had
+happened, swimming about at its ease, and playing a hundred tricks, till
+the canoe was put to rights again.
+
+Besides the amusements I have already mentioned, the young children have
+one, which was much played at, and shewed no small degree of dexterity.
+They take a short stick, with a peg sharpened at both ends, running through
+one extremity of it, and extending about an inch on each side; and throwing
+up a ball, made of green leaves, moulded together, and secured with twine,
+they catch it on the point of the peg; and immediately throwing it up again
+from the peg, they turn the stick round, and thus keep catching it on each
+peg alternately, without missing it, for a considerable time. They are not
+less expert at another game of the same nature, tossing up in the air, and
+catching, in their turns, a number of these balls; so that we frequently
+saw little children thus keep in motion five at a time. With this latter
+play the young people likewise divert themselves at the Friendly Islands.
+
+The great resemblance which prevails in the mode of agriculture and
+navigation, amongst all the inhabitants of the South Sea Islands, leaves me
+very little to add on those heads. Captain Cook has already described the
+figure of the canoes we saw at Atooi. Those of the other islands were
+precisely the same; and the largest we saw was a double canoe, belonging to
+Terreeoboo, which measured seventy feet in length, three and a half in
+depth, and twelve in breadth; and each was hollowed out of one tree.
+
+The progress they have made in sculpture, their skill in painting cloth,
+and their manufacturing of mats, have been all particularly described. The
+most curious specimens of the former, which we saw during our second visit,
+are the bowls in which the chiefs drink _ava_. These are usually about
+eight or ten inches in diameter, perfectly round, and beautifully polished.
+They are supported by three, and sometimes four small human figures, in
+various attitudes. Some of them rest on the hands of their supporters,
+extended over the head; others on the head and hands; and some on the
+shoulders. The figures, I am told, are accurately proportioned, and neatly
+finished, and even the anatomy of the muscles, in supporting the weight,
+well expressed.
+
+Their cloth is made of the same materials, and in the same manner, as at
+the Friendly and Society Islands. That which is designed to be painted, is
+of a thick and strong texture, several folds being beat and incorporated
+together; after which it is cut in breadths, about two or three feet wide,
+and is painted in a variety of patterns, with a comprehensiveness and
+regularity of design that bespeaks infinite taste and fancy. The exactness
+with which the most intricate patterns are continued is the more
+surprising, when we consider that they have no stamps, and that the whole
+is done by the eye, with pieces of bamboo-cane dipped in paint; the hand
+being supported by another piece of the cane, in the manner practised by
+our painters. Their colours are extracted from the same berries, and other
+vegetable substances, as at Otaheite, which have been already described by
+former voyagers.
+
+The business of painting belongs entirely to the women, and is called
+_kipparee_; and it is remarkable that they always gave the same name to our
+writing. The young women would often take the pen out of our hands, and
+shew us that they knew the use of it as well as we did; at the same time
+telling us that our pens were not so good as theirs. They looked upon a
+sheet of written paper as a piece of cloth striped after the fashion of our
+country; and it was not without the utmost difficulty that we could make
+them understand that our figures had a meaning in them which theirs had
+not.
+
+Their mats are made of the leaves of the _pandanus_; and, as well as their
+cloths, are beautifully worked in a variety of patterns, and stained of
+different colours. Some have a ground of pale green, spotted with squares
+or rhomboids of red; others are of a straw colour, spotted with green; and
+others are worked with beautiful stripes, either in straight or waving
+lines of red and brown. In this article of manufacture, whether we regard
+the strength, fineness, or beauty, they certainly excel the whole world.
+
+Their fishing-hooks are made of mother-of-pearl, bone, or wood, pointed and
+barbed with small bones or tortoise-shell. They are of various sizes and
+forms, but the most common are about two or three inches long, and made in
+the shape of a small fish, which serves as a bait, having a bunch of
+feathers tied to the head or tail. Those with which they fish for sharks
+are of a very large size, being generally six or eight inches long.
+Considering the materials of which these hooks were made, their strength
+and neatness are really astonishing; and, in fact, we found them, upon
+trial, much superior to our own.
+
+The line which they use for fishing, for making nets, and for other
+domestic purposes is of different degrees of fineness, and is made of the
+bark of the _touta_, or cloth-tree; neatly and evenly twisted, in the same
+manner as our common twine; and may be continued to any length. They have a
+finer sort, made of the bark of a small shrub, called _areemah_; and the
+finest is made of human hair; but this last is chiefly used for things of
+ornament. They also make cordage of a stronger kind, for the rigging of
+their canoes, from the fibrous coatings of the cocoa-nuts. Some of this we
+purchased for our own use, and found it well adapted to the smaller kinds
+of the running rigging. They likewise make another sort of cordage, which
+is flat, and exceedingly strong, and used principally in lashing the
+roofing of their houses, or whatever they wish to fasten tight together.
+This last is not twisted like the former sorts, but is made of the fibrous
+strings of the cocoa-nut's coat, plaited with the fingers, in the manner
+our sailors make their points for the reefing of sails.
+
+The gourds, which grow to so enormous a size, that some of them are capable
+of containing from ten to twelve gallons, are applied to all manner of
+domestic purposes; and in order to fit them the better to their respective
+uses, they have the ingenuity to give them different forms, by tying
+bandages round them during their growth. Thus some of them are of a long
+cylindrical form, as best adapted to contain their fishing-tackle; others
+are of a dish form, and these serve to hold their salt and salted
+provisions, their puddings, vegetables, &c. which two sorts have neat close
+covers, made likewise of the gourd; others, again, are exactly in the shape
+of a bottle with a long neck, and in these they keep their water. They have
+likewise a method of scoring them with a heated instrument, so as to give
+them the appearance of being painted in a variety of neat and elegant
+designs.
+
+Amongst their arts, we must not forget that of making salt, with which we
+were amply supplied during our stay at these islands, and which was
+perfectly good of its kind. Their salt-pans are made of earth, lined with
+clay; being generally six or eight feet square, and about eight inches
+deep. They are raised upon a bank of stones near to high-water mark, from
+whence the salt-water is conducted to the foot of them in small trenches,
+out of which they are filled, and the sun quickly performs the necessary
+process of evaporation. The salt we procured at Atooi and Oneeheow, on our
+first visit, was of a brown and dirty sort; but that which we afterward got
+in Karakakooa Bay was white, and of a most excellent quality, and in great
+abundance. Besides the quantity we used in salting pork, we filled all our
+empty casks, amounting to sixteen puncheons, in the Resolution only.
+
+Their instruments of war are spears, daggers, called _pahooas_, clubs, and
+slings. The spears are of two sorts, and made of a hard solid wood, which
+has much the appearance of mahogany. One sort is from six to eight feet in
+length, finely polished, and gradually increasing in thickness from the
+extremity till within about half a foot of the point, which tapers
+suddenly, and is furnished with four or six rows of barbs. It is not
+improbable that these might be used in the way of darts. The other sort,
+with which we saw the warriors at Owhyhee and Atooi mostly armed, are
+twelve or fifteen feet long, and, instead of being barbed, terminate toward
+the point like their daggers.
+
+The dagger, or _pahooa_, is made of heavy black wood, resembling ebony. Its
+length is from one to two feet, with a string passing through the handle,
+for the purpose of suspending it to the arm.
+
+The clubs are made indifferently of several sorts of wood. They are of rude
+workmanship, and of a variety of shapes and sizes.
+
+The slings have nothing singular about them; and in no respect differ from
+our common slings, except that the stone is lodged on a piece of matting
+instead of leather.
+
+
+[5] The nice and highly interesting subject now adverted to, it is evident,
+    will require a very extensive and cautious enquiry, and cannot
+    possibly be discussed in the small compass allotted to notes. See
+    Forster's Observations. But additional information has been obtained
+    since the time of that author.--E.
+
+[6] There is good reason to imagine that most of the early voyagers into
+    the South Sea, have exaggerated the numbers of the inhabitants in the
+    various groups of islands they met with. The present calculation, most
+    readers will believe, is beyond the truth. Certain however it is, that
+    almost all the recent accounts are at variance with such astonishing
+    estimates as were formerly made. But, on the other hand, Mr.
+    Pinkerton's assertion, that "it is probable there are not above
+    300,000 souls in all Australasia and Polynesia," (Geog. 3d ed. 2d vol.
+    p. 172,) must appear so extraordinary when considered in opposition to
+    them, as at once to convey the notion of a bold adventure. Yet even
+    this admits of some degree of probability, from the account formerly
+    given, of the immense decrease in the population of Otaheite.
+    Altogether the subject is imperfectly understood, and labours under
+    peculiar difficulties; we ought to listen with some hesitation,
+    therefore, to all assertions respecting it.--E.
+
+[7] We have elsewhere had occasion to take notice of the fact of human
+    sacrifices and cannibalism, forming an essential particular in the
+    history of all the South Sea islanders. It is unnecessary to occupy a
+    moment's attention in farther enquiry respecting it, as perhaps no
+    question, in the circle of philosophical research, has received more
+    complete solution by the testimony of credible witnesses. He that
+    shall attempt to controvert their evidence, will have need of all the
+    effrontery and invincibility to truth that ever stamped the forehead
+    or hardened the heart of a polemist.--E.
+
+[8] Here, then, we have two reasons for the practice of tattowing, in
+    addition to those which we enumerated in the account of Cook's first
+    voyage, provided only that Captain King's information can he relied
+    on. The first of these, it may be remarked, is so extremely similar to
+    the practice of wounding or cutting the body for the dead, which has
+    prevailed so extensively, that we can have no difficulty in allowing
+    the full force of the observation. But, with respect to the second,
+    one may incline to demur, on the ground of the improbability that such
+    a state of servitude as it implies, could exist in so apparently
+    primitive a condition of society. This, however, is not difficult of
+    explanation, as the reader will find in the following section, from
+    which one may safely infer, that the government of the Sandwich
+    islands is by no means one which requires for its exhibition, the
+    innocence, the liberty, and equality of the golden age. Some
+    conclusion may hence be drawn as to the probable origin and antiquity
+    of these islanders. But it is obvious that we are far from possessing
+    sufficient data to enable us to enter satisfactorily on the discussion
+    of the topic.--E.
+
+[9] Mr Playfair in his Geography, vol. vi. p. 839, asserts, that the
+    Sandwich islands were first discovered by Gaetano, a Spanish
+    navigator, in 1542; but he does not assign his authority, or give any
+    clue for which the position may be verified. The fact is certainly
+    probable, as Captain King seems to admit; and supposing it so, we can
+    easily conceive that the distance of time from the period of the
+    discovery above stated, would be quite sufficient to account for the
+    natives having no tradition of such a visit. Even a much shorter
+    period would be adequate for the total loss of almost any event in the
+    current history of a people, who had no other method of preserving it
+    than the impression it made on the senses, and to whom there was no
+    excitement to impress it on the memories of succeeding generations,
+    arising from the importance of the circumstances connected with it.
+    The possession of iron, indeed, supposing it traced to this source,
+    may be alleged too valuable, to have admitted such total forgetfulness
+    of the event which occasioned it. But this difficulty readily resolves
+    into a general remark, that even in more fortunate situations, the
+    authors and occasions of many discoveries and inventions are soon lost
+    sight of, in the more interesting experience of the utility that
+    commends them. Men, in fact, are always much more anxious to avail
+    themselves of the advantages which genius or accident has presented to
+    their notice, than careful to testify gratitude by ascertaining and
+    perpetuating the original sources to which they have been indebted. A
+    case, not indeed quite parallel, instantly occurs to recollection. How
+    few persons are there in this island, who have the smallest
+    conception, to whom it is they are indebted for the introduction of
+    that valuable vegetable the potatoe? The incident, no doubt, is
+    recorded in the history of our country. But is there one in a thousand
+    to whom the article is so familiar, that knows whence it came; or is
+    it conceivable, that, without such a record, any individual of the
+    present generation would have doubted for a moment that it was
+    indigenous to Britain? We might multiply such examples almost without
+    end. But the reader may like better to amuse himself with an enquiry
+    into the extent of common ignorance and indifference.--E.
+
+[10] As this circumstance, of their _singing in parts_, has been much
+    doubted by persons eminently skilled in music, and would be
+    exceedingly curious if it were clearly ascertained, it is to be
+    lamented that it cannot be more positively authenticated.
+
+    Captain Burney, and Captain Phillips, of the marines, who both have a
+    tolerable knowledge of music, have given it as their opinion, that
+    they did sing in parts; that is to say, that they sung together in
+    different notes, which formed a pleasing harmony.
+
+    These gentlemen have fully testified, that the Friendly Islanders
+    undoubtedly studied their performances before they were exhibited in
+    public; that they had an idea of different notes being useful in
+    harmony; and also, that they rehearsed their compositions in private,
+    and threw out the inferior voices, before they ventured to appear
+    before those who were supposed to be judges of their skill in music.
+
+    In their regular concerts each man had a bamboo, which was of a
+    different length and gave a different tone; these they beat against
+    the ground, and each performer, assisted by the note given by this
+    instrument, repeated the same note, accompanying it by words, by which
+    means it was rendered sometimes short and sometimes long. In this
+    manner they sing in chorus, and not only produced octaves to each
+    other, according to their different species of voice, but fell on
+    concords, such as were not disagreeable to the ear.
+
+    Now, to overturn this fact, by the reasoning of persons who did not
+    hear these performances, is rather an arduous task. And yet there is
+    great improbability, that any uncivilized people should, by accident,
+    arrive at this degree of perfection in the art of music, which, we
+    imagine, can only be attained by dint of study, and knowledge of the
+    system and theory upon which musical composition is founded. Such
+    miserable jargon as our country psalm-singers practise, which may be
+    justly deemed the lowest class of counterpoint, or singing in several
+    parts, cannot be acquired, in the coarse manner in which it is
+    performed in the churches, without considerable time and practice. It
+    is therefore scarcely credible, that a people, semi-barbarous, should
+    naturally arrive at any perfection in that art, which it is much
+    doubted, whether the Greeks and Romans, with all their refinements in
+    music, ever attained, and which the Chinese, who have been longer
+    civilized than any people on the globe, have not yet found out.
+
+    If Captain Burney (who, by the testimony of his father, perhaps the
+    greatest musical theorist of this or any other age, was able to have
+    done it) had written down, in European notes, the concords that these
+    people sing; and if these concords had been such as European ears
+    could tolerate, there would have been no longer doubt of the fact;
+    but, as it is, it would, in my opinion, be a rash judgment to venture
+    to affirm, that they did or did not understand counterpoint; and
+    therefore I fear that this curious matter must be considered as still
+    remaining undecided.
+
+[11] An amusement somewhat similar to this, at Otaheite, has been elsewhere
+    described.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION VIII.
+
+
+General Account of the Sandwich Islands, continued.--Government.--People
+divided into three Classes,--Power of Erreetaboo.--Genealogy of the Kings
+of Owhyhee and Mowee.--Power of the Chiefs.--State of the inferior Class.
+--Punishment of Crimes.--Religion.--Society of Priests.--The Orono.--Their
+Idols.--Songs chanted by the Chiefs, before they drink Ava.--Human
+Sacrifices.--Custom of knocking out the fore Teeth.--Notions with regard to
+a future State.--Marriages.--Remarkable Instance of Jealousy.--Funeral
+Rites.
+
+
+The people of these islands are manifestly divided into three classes. The
+first are the _Erees_, or chiefs, of each district, one of which is
+superior to the rest, and is called at Owhyhee _Eree-taboo_, and _Eree-
+moee_. By the first of these words they express his absolute authority; and
+by the latter, that all are obliged to prostrate themselves (or put
+themselves to sleep, as the word signifies) in his presence. The second
+class are those who appear to enjoy a right of property without authority.
+The third are the _towtows_, or servants, who have neither rank nor
+property.
+
+It is not possible to give any thing like a systematical account of the
+subordination of these classes to each other, without departing from that
+strict veracity, which, in works of this nature, is more satisfactory than
+conjectures, however ingenious. I will, therefore, content myself with
+relating such facts as we were witnesses to ourselves, and such accounts as
+we thought could be depended upon; and shall leave the reader to form from
+them his own ideas of the nature of their government.
+
+The great power and high rank of Terreeoboo, the _Eree-taboo_ of Owhyhee,
+was very evident, from the manner in which he was received at Karakakooa,
+on his first arrival. All the natives were seen prostrated at the entrance
+of their houses; and the canoes, for two days before, were _tabooed_, or
+forbidden to go out, till he took off the restraint. He was at this time
+just returned from Mowee, for the possession of which he was contending in
+favour of his son Teewarro, who had married the daughter and only child of
+the late king of that island, against Tabeeterree, his surviving brother.
+He was attended, in this expedition, by many of his warriors; but whether
+their service was voluntary, or the condition on which they hold their rank
+and property, we could not learn.
+
+That he collects tribute from the subordinate chiefs, we had a very
+striking proof in the instance of Kaoo, which has been already related in
+our transactions of the 2d and 3d of February.
+
+I have before mentioned, that the two most powerful chiefs of these
+islands, are, Terreeoboo of Owhyhee, and Perreeorannee of Wohahoo; the rest
+of the smaller isles being subject to one or other of these; Mowee, and its
+dependencies, being at this time claimed, as we have just observed, by
+Terreeoboo, for Teewarro, his son and intended successor; Atooi and
+Oneeheow being governed by the grandsons of Perreorannee.
+
+The following genealogy of the Owhyhee and Mowee kings, which I collected
+from the priests, during our residence at the _morai_, in Karakakooa Bay,
+contains all the information I could procure relative to the political
+history of these islands.
+
+This account reaches to four chiefs, predecessors of the present; all of
+whom they represent to have lived to an old age. Their names and
+successions are as follows:
+
+First, Poorahoo Awhykaia was king of Owhyhee, and had an only son called
+Neerooagooa. At this time Mowee was governed by Mokoakea, who had also an
+only son, named Papikaneeou.
+
+Secondly, Neerooagooa had three sons, the eldest named Kahavee; and
+Papikaneeou, of the Mowee race, had an only son, named Kaowreeka.
+
+Thirdly, Kahavee had an only son, Kayenewee a mummow; and Kaowreeka, the
+Mowee king, had two sons, Maiha-maiha, and Taheeterree; the latter of whom
+is now, by one party, acknowledged chief of Mowee.
+
+Fourthly, Kayenewee a mummow had two sons, Terreeoboo and Kaihooa; and
+Maiha-maiha, king of Mowee, had no son, but left a daughter called Roaho.
+
+Fifthly, Terreeoboo, the present king of Owhyhee, had a son, named
+Teewarro, by Rora-rora, the widow of Maiha-maiha, late king of Mowee; and
+this son has married Roaho, his half-sister, in whose right he claims Mowee
+and its appendages.
+
+Taheeterree, the brother of the late king, supported by a considerable
+party, who were not willing that the possessions should go into another
+family, took up arms, and opposed the rights of his niece.
+
+When we were first off Mowee, Terreeoboo was there with his warriors, to
+support the claims of his wife, his son, and daughter-in-law, and had
+fought a battle with the opposite party, in which Taheeterree was worsted.
+We afterwards understood that matters had been compromised, and that
+Taheeterree is to have the possession of the three neighbouring islands
+during his life; that Teewarro is acknowledged the chief of Mowee, and will
+also succeed to the kingdom of Owhyhee on the death of Terreeoboo; and also
+to the sovereignty of the three Islands contiguous to Mowee, on the death
+of Taheeterree. Teewarro has been lately married to his half-sister, and,
+should he die without issue, the government of these islands descends to
+Maiha-maiha, whom we have often had occasion to mention, he being the son
+of Kaihooa, the deceased brother of Terreeoboo. Should he also die without
+issue, they could not tell who would succeed; for the two youngest sons of
+Terreeoboo, one of whom he appears to be exceedingly fond of, being born of
+a woman of no rank, would, from this circumstance, be debarred all right of
+succession. We had not an opportunity of seeing queen Rora-rora, whom
+Terreeoboo had left behind at Mowee; but we have already had occasion to
+take notice, that he was accompanied by Kanee-kabareea, the mother of the
+two youths, to whom he was much attached.
+
+From this account of the genealogy of the Owhyhee and Mowee monarchs, it is
+pretty clear that the government is hereditary; which also makes it very
+probable, that the inferior titles, and property itself, descend in the
+same course. With regard to Perreeorannee, we could only learn that he is
+an _Ere-taboo_; that he was invading the possession of Taheeterree, but on
+what pretence we were not informed; and that his grandsons governed the
+islands to leeward.
+
+The power of the _Erees_ over the inferior classes of people appears to be
+very absolute. Many instances of this occurred daily during our stay
+amongst them, and have been already related. The people, on the other hand,
+pay them the most implicit obedience; and this state of servility has
+manifestly had a great effect in debasing both their minds and bodies. It
+is, however, remarkable, that the chiefs were never guilty, as far at least
+as came within my knowledge, of any acts of cruelty or injustice, or even
+of insolent behaviour toward them; though, at the same time, they exercised
+their power over one another in the most haughty and oppressive manner. Of
+this I shall give two instances. A chief of the lower order had behaved
+with great civility to the master of the ship, when he went to examine
+Karakakooa Bay, the day before the ship first arrived there; and, in
+return, I afterward carried him on board, and introduced him to Captain
+Cook, who invited him to dine with us. While we were at table, Pareea
+entered, whose face but too plainly manifested his indignation at seeing
+our guest in so honourable a situation. He immediately seized him by the
+hair of the head, and was proceeding to drag him out of the cabin, when the
+captain interfered, and, after a great deal of altercation, all the
+indulgence we could obtain, without coming to a quarrel with Pareea, was,
+that our guest should be suffered to remain, being seated upon the floor,
+whilst Pareea filled his place at the table. At another time, when
+Terreeoboo first came on board the Resolution, Maiha-maiha, who attended
+him, finding Pareea on deck, turned him out of the ship in the most
+ignominious manner; and yet Pareea we certainly knew to be a man of the
+first consequence.
+
+How far the property of the lower class is secured against the rapacity and
+despotism of the great chiefs, I cannot say, but it should seem that it is
+sufficiently protected against private theft, or mutual depredation; for
+not only their plantations, which are spread over the whole country, but
+also their houses, their hogs, and their cloth, were left unguarded,
+without the smallest apprehensions. I have already remarked, that they not
+only separate their possessions by walls in the plain country, but that, in
+the woods likewise, wherever the horse-plantains grow, they make use of
+small white flags, in the same manner, and for the same purpose of
+discriminating property, as they do bunches of leaves at Otaheite. All
+which circumstances, if they do not amount to proofs, are strong
+indications that the power of the chiefs, where property is concerned, is
+not arbitrary, but at least so far circumscribed and ascertained, as to
+make it worth the while for the inferior orders to cultivate the soil, and
+to occupy their possessions distinct from each other.
+
+With respect to the administration of justice, all the information we could
+collect was very imperfect and confined. Whenever any of the lowest class
+of people had a quarrel amongst themselves, the matter in dispute was
+referred to the decision of some chief, probably the chief of the district,
+or the person to whom they appertained. If an inferior chief had given
+cause of offence to one of a higher rank, the feelings of the latter at the
+moment seemed the only measure of his punishment. If he had the good
+fortune to escape the first transports of his superior's rage, he generally
+found means, through the mediation of some third person, to compound for
+his crime by a part or the whole of his property and effects. These were
+the only facts that came to our knowledge on this head.
+
+The religion of these people resembles, in most of its principal features,
+that of the Society and Friendly Islands. Their _morais_, their _whattas_,
+their idols, their sacrifices, and their sacred songs, all of which they
+have in common with each other, are convincing proofs that their religious
+notions are derived from the same source. In the length and number of their
+ceremonies, this branch indeed far exceeds the rest; and though in all
+these countries there is a certain class of men, to whose care the
+performance of their religious rites is committed, yet we never met with a
+regular society of priests, till we discovered the cloisters of Kakooa in
+Karakakooa Bay. The head of this order was called _Orono_; a title which we
+imagined to imply something highly sacred, and which, in the person of
+Omeeah, was honoured almost to adoration. It is probable, that the
+privilege of entering into this order (at least as to the principal offices
+in it) is limited to certain families. Omeeah, the _Orono_, was the son of
+Kaoo, and the uncle of Kaireekeea, which last presided, during the absence
+of his grandfather, in all religious ceremonies at the _morai_. It was also
+remarked, that the child of Omeeah, an only son, about five years old, was
+never suffered to appear without a number of attendants, and such other
+marks of care and solicitude as we saw no other like instance of. This
+seemed to indicate that his life was an object of the greatest moment, and
+that he was destined to succeed to the high rank of his father.
+
+It has been mentioned, that the title of _Orono_, with all its honours, was
+given to Captain Cook; and it is also certain that they regarded us
+generally as a race of people superior to themselves, and used often to say
+that great _Eatoua_ dwelled in our country. The little image, which we have
+before described as the favourite idol on the _morai_ in Karakakooa Bay,
+they call _Koonooraekaiee_, and said it was Terreeoboo's god, and that he
+also resided amongst us.
+
+There are found an infinite variety of these images both on the _morais_,
+and within and without their houses, to which they give different names;
+but it soon became obvious to us in how little estimation they were held,
+from their frequent expressions of contempt of them, and from their even
+offering them to sale for trifles. At the same time there seldom failed to
+be some one particular figure in favour, to which, whilst this preference
+lasted, all their adoration was addressed. This consisted in arraying it in
+red cloth, beating their drums, and singing hymns before it, laying bunches
+of red feathers, and different sorts of vegetables, at its feet, and
+exposing a pig or a dog to rot on the _whatta_, that stood near it.
+
+In a bay to the southward of Karakakooa, a party of our gentlemen were
+conducted to a large house, in which they found the black figure of a man,
+resting on his fingers and toes, with his head inclined backward, the limbs
+well formed, and exactly proportioned, and the whole beautifully polished.
+This figure the natives call _Maee_; and round it were placed thirteen
+others of rude and distorted shapes, which they said were the _Eatooas_ of
+several deceased chiefs, whose names they recounted. The place was full of
+_whattas_, on which lay the remains of their offerings. They likewise give
+a place in their houses to many ludicrous and some obscene idols, like the
+Priapus of the ancients.
+
+It hath been remarked by former voyagers, that, both among the Society and
+Friendly Islanders, an adoration is paid to particular birds; and I am led
+to believe that the same custom prevails here; and that, probably, the
+raven is the object of it, from seeing two of these birds tame at the
+village of Kakooa, which they told me were _Eatooas_; and, refusing every
+thing I offered for them, cautioned me, at the same time, not to hurt or
+offend them.
+
+Amongst their religious ceremonies may be reckoned the prayers and
+offerings made by the priests before their meals. Whilst the _ava_ is
+chewing, of which they always drink before they begin their repast, the
+person of the highest rank takes the lead in a sort of hymn, in which he is
+presently joined by one, two, or more of the company; the rest moving their
+bodies, and striking their hands gently together, in concert with the
+singers. When the _ava_ is ready, cups of it are handed about to those who
+did not join in the song, which they keep in their hands till it is ended;
+when, uniting in one loud response, they drink off their cup. The
+performers of the hymn are then served with _ava_, who drink it after a
+repetition of the same ceremony; and if there be present one of a very
+superior rank, a cup is, last of all, presented to him, which, after
+chanting some time alone, and being answered by the rest, and pouring a
+little out on the ground, he drinks off. A piece of the flesh that is
+dressed is next cut off, without any selection of the part of the animal,
+which, together with some of the vegetables, being deposited at the foot of
+the image of the _Eatooa_, and a hymn chanted, their meal commences. A
+ceremony of much the same kind is also performed by the chiefs, whenever
+they drink _ava_ between their meals.
+
+Human sacrifices are more frequent here, according to the account of the
+natives themselves, than in any other islands we visited. These horrid
+rites are not only had recourse to upon the commencement of war, and
+preceding great battles and other signal enterprises, but the death of any
+considerable chief calls for a sacrifice of one or more _Towtows_,
+according to his rank; and we were told, that ten men were destined to
+suffer on the death of Terreeoboo. What may, if any thing possibly can,
+lessen, in some small degree, the horror of this practice is, that the
+unhappy victims have not the most distant intimation of their fate. Those
+who are fixed upon to fall, are set upon with clubs wherever they happen to
+be, and, after being dispatched, are brought dead to the place, where the
+remainder of the rites are completed. The reader will here call to his
+remembrance the skulls of the captives that had been sacrificed at the
+death of some great chief, and which were fixed on the rails round the top
+of the _morai_ at Kakooa. We got a farther piece of intelligence upon this
+subject at the village of Kowrowa; where, on our enquiring into the use of
+a small piece of ground, inclosed with a stone-fence, we were told that it
+was an _Here-eere_, or burying-ground of a chief; and there, added our
+informer, pointing to one of the corners, lie the _tangata_ and _waheene
+taboo_, or the man and woman who were sacrificed at his funeral.
+
+To this class of their customs may also be referred that of knocking out
+their fore-teeth. Scarce any of the lower people, and very few of the
+chiefs, were seen, who had not lost one or more of them; and we always
+understood that this voluntary punishment, like the cutting off the joints
+of the finger at the Friendly Islands, was not inflicted on themselves from
+the violence of grief on the death of their friends, but was designed as a
+propitiatory sacrifice to the _Eatooa_, to avert any danger or mischief to
+which they might be exposed.
+
+We were able to learn but little of their notions with regard to a future
+state. Whenever we asked them whither the dead were gone? we were always
+answered, that the breath, which they appeared to consider as the soul, or
+immortal part, was gone to the _Eatooa_; and, on pushing our enquiries
+farther, they seemed to describe some particular place, where they imagined
+the abode of the deceased to be; but we could not perceive that they
+thought, in this state, either rewards or punishments awaited them.
+
+Having promised the reader an explanation of what was meant by the word
+_taboo_, I shall, in this place, lay before him the particular instances
+that fell under our observation of its application and effects. On our
+enquiring into the reasons of the interdiction of all intercourse between
+us and the natives, the day preceding the arrival of Terreeoboo, we were
+told that the bay was _tabooed_. The same restriction took place, at our
+request, the day we interred the bones of Captain Cook. In these two
+instances the natives paid the most implicit and scrupulous obedience, but
+whether on any religious principle, or merely in deference to the civil
+authority of their chiefs, I cannot determine. When the ground near our
+observatories, and the place where our masts lay, were _tabooed_, by
+sticking small wands round them, this operated in a manner not less
+efficacious. But though this mode of consecration was performed by the
+priests only, yet still, as the men ventured to come within the space, when
+invited by us, it should seem that they were under no religious
+apprehensions, and that their obedience was limited to our refusal only.
+The women could, by no means, be induced to come near us; but this was
+probably on account of the _morai_ adjoining, which they are prohibited, at
+all times, and in all the islands of those seas, from approaching. Mention
+hath been already made, that women are always _tabooed_, or forbidden to
+eat certain kind of meats. We also frequently saw several at their meals,
+who had the meat put into their mouths by others; and, on our asking the
+reason of this singularity, were told that they were _tabooed_, or
+forbidden to feed themselves. This prohibition, we understood, was always
+laid on them after they had assisted at any funeral, or touched a dead
+body, and also on other occasions. It is necessary to observe, that on
+these occasions they apply the word _taboo_ indifferently both to persons
+and things. Thus they say, the natives were _tabooed_, or the bay was
+_tabooed_, and so of the rest. This word is also used to express any thing
+sacred, or eminent, or devoted. Thus the king of Owhyhee was called _Eree-
+taboo_, a human victim _tangata-taboo_; and, in the same manner, among the
+Friendly Islanders, Tonga, the island where the king resides, is named
+_Tonga-taboo_.
+
+Concerning their marriages, I can afford the reader little farther
+satisfaction than informing him, that such a relation or compact exists
+amongst them. I have already had occasion to mention, that at the time
+Terreeoboo had left his queen Rora-rora at Mowee, he was attended by
+another woman, by whom he had children, and to whom he was very much
+attached; but how far polygamy, properly speaking, is allowed, or how far
+it is mixed with concubinage, either with respect to the king, the chiefs,
+or among the inferior orders, too few facts came to our knowledge to
+justify any conclusions. It hath also been observed, that, except
+Kaneekabareea, and the wife of the Orono, with three women whom I shall
+have occasion hereafter to mention, we never saw any female of high rank.
+From what I had an opportunity of observing of the domestic concerns of the
+lowest class, the house seemed to be under the direction of one man and
+woman, and the children in the like state of subordination as in civilized
+countries.
+
+It will not be improper, in this place, to take notice, that we were eye-
+witnesses of a fact, which, as it was the only instance we saw of any thing
+like jealousy among them, shews, at the same time, that not only fidelity,
+but a degree of reserve, is required from the married women of consequence.
+At one of the entertainments of boxing, Omeeah was observed to rise from
+his place two or three times, and to go up to his wife with strong marks of
+displeasure, ordering her, as it appeared to us from his manner, to
+withdraw. Whether it was, that being very handsome, he thought she drew too
+much of our attention, or without being able to determine what other reason
+he might have for his conduct, it is but justice to say, that there existed
+no real cause of jealousy. However, she kept her place, and when the
+entertainment was over, joined our party, and, soliciting some trifling
+presents, was given to understand that we had none about us, but that if
+she would accompany us toward our tent, she should return with such as she
+liked best. She was accordingly walking along with us, which Omeeah
+observing, followed in a violent rage, and seizing her by the hair, began
+to inflict, with his fists, a severe corporeal punishment. This sight,
+especially as we had innocently been the cause of it, gave us much concern;
+and yet we were told, that it would be highly improper to interfere between
+man and wife of such high rank. We were, however, not left without the
+consolation of seeing the natives at last interpose, and had the farther
+satisfaction of meeting them together the next day, in perfect good humour
+with each other; and, what is still more singular, the lady would not
+suffer us to remonstrate with her husband on his treatment of her, which we
+were much inclined to do, and plainly told us, that he had done no more
+than he ought.
+
+Whilst I was ashore at the observatory at Karakakooa Bay, I had twice an
+opportunity of seeing a considerable part of their funeral rites.
+Intelligence was brought me of the death of an old chief in a house near
+our observatories, soon after the event happened. On going to the place, I
+found a number of people assembled, and seated round a square area,
+fronting the house in which the deceased lay, whilst a man, in a red-
+feathered cap, advanced from an interior part of the house to the door,
+and, putting out his head, at almost every moment uttered a most lamentable
+howl, accompanied with the most singular grimaces and violent distortions
+of his face that can be conceived. After this had passed a short time, a
+large mat was spread upon the area, and two men and thirteen women came out
+of the house, and sate themselves down upon it, in three equal rows; the
+two men and three of the women being in front. The necks and hands of the
+women were decorated with, feathered ruffs; and broad green leaves,
+curiously scolloped, were spread over their shoulders. At one corner of
+this _area_, near a small hut, were half a dozen boys, waving small white
+banners, and the tufted wands, or _taboo_ sticks which, have been often
+mentioned, who would not permit us to approach them. This led me to imagine
+that the dead body might be deposited in this little hut; but I afterwards
+understood, that it was in the house where the man in the red cap opened
+the rites, by playing his tricks at the door. The company just mentioned
+being seated on the mat, began to sing a melancholy tune, accompanied with
+a slow and gentle motion of the body and arms. When this had continued some
+time, they raised themselves on their knees, and, in a posture between
+kneeling and sitting, began by degrees to move their arms and their bodies
+with great rapidity, the tune always keeping pace with their motions. As
+these last exertions were too violent to continue long, they resumed, at
+intervals, their slower movements; and, after this performance had lasted
+an hour, more mats were brought and spread upon the area, and four or five
+elderly women, amongst whom I was told was the dead chief's wife, advanced
+slowly out of the house, and seating themselves in the front of the first
+company, began to cry and wail most bitterly; the women in the three rows
+behind joining them, whilst the two men inclined their heads over them in a
+very melancholy and pensive attitude. At this period of the rites, I was
+obliged to leave them to attend at the observatory; but returning within
+half an hour, found them in the same situation. I continued with them till
+late in the evening, and left them proceeding, with little variation, as
+just described; resolving, however, to attend early in the morning, to see
+the remainder of the ceremony. On my arrival at the house, as soon as it
+was day, I found, to my mortification, the crowd dispersed, and every thing
+quiet; and was given to understand, that the corpse was removed; nor could
+I learn in what manner it was disposed of. I was interrupted in making
+farther enquiries for this purpose, by the approach of three women of rank,
+who, whilst their attendants stood near them with their fly-flaps, sat down
+by us, and, entering into conversation, soon made me comprehend that our
+presence was a hindrance to the performance of some necessary rites. I had
+hardly got out of sight, before I heard their cries and lamentations; and
+meeting them a few hours afterward, I found they had painted the lower part
+of their faces perfectly black.
+
+The other opportunity I had of observing these ceremonies, was in the case
+of an ordinary person; when, on hearing some mournful female cries issue
+from a miserable-looking hut, I ventured into it, and found an old woman
+with her daughter, weeping over the body of an elderly man, who had but
+just expired, being still warm. The first step they took was to cover the
+body with cloth, after which, lying down by it, they drew the cloth over
+themselves, and then began a mournful kind of song, frequently repeating,
+_Aweh medooah! Aweh tanee!_ Oh my father! Oh my husband! A younger daughter
+was also at the same time lying prostrate, in a corner of the house,
+covered over with black cloth, repeating the same words. On leaving this
+melancholy scene, I found at the door a number of their neighbours
+collected together, and listening to their cries with profound silence. I
+was resolved not to miss this opportunity of seeing in what manner they
+dispose of the body; and, therefore, after satisfying myself before I went
+to bed that it was not then removed, I gave orders that the sentries should
+walk backward and forward before the house, and, in case they suspected any
+measures were taking for the removal of the body, to give me immediate
+notice. However, the sentries had not kept a good look-out, for in the
+morning I found the body was gone. On enquiring what they had done with it,
+they pointed toward the sea; indicating most probably thereby, that it had
+been committed to the deep, or perhaps that it had been carried beyond the
+bay, to some burying-ground in another part of the country. The chiefs are
+interred in the _morais_, or _He-ree-erees_, with the men sacrificed on the
+occasion, by the side of them; and we observed that the _morai_, where the
+chief had been buried, who, as I have already mentioned, was killed in the
+cave after so stout a resistance, was hung round with red cloth.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+
+TRANSACTIONS DURING THE SECOND EXPEDITION TO THE NORTH, BY THE WAY OF
+KAMTSCHATKA; AND ON THE RETURN HOME BY THE WAY OF CANTON AND THE CAPE OF
+GOOD HOPE.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION I.
+
+
+Departure from Oneeheow--Fruitless Attempt to discover Modoopapappa.--
+Course steered for Awatska Bay.--Occurrences during that Passage.--Sudden
+Change from Heat to Cold.--Distress occasioned by the leaking of the
+Resolution.--View of the Coast of Kamtschatka.--Extreme Rigour of the
+Climate.--Lose Sight of the Discovery.--The Resolution enters the Bay of
+Awatska.--Prospect of the Town of Saint Peter and Saint Paul.--Party sent
+ashore.--Their Reception by the Commanding-Officer of the Port.--Message
+dispatched to the Commander at Bolcheretsk.--Arrival of the
+Discovery.--Return of the Messengers from the Commander.--Extraordinary
+Mode of Travelling.--Visit from a Merchant and a German Servant belonging
+to the Commander.
+
+
+On the 15th of March, at seven in the morning, we weighed anchor, and
+passing to the north of Tahoora, stood on to the south-west, in hopes of
+falling in with the island of Modoopapappa, which, we were told by the
+natives, lay in that direction, about five hours sail from Tahoora. At four
+in the afternoon, we were overtaken by a stout canoe, with ten men, who
+were going from Oneeheow to Tahoora, to kill tropic and man-of-war birds,
+with which that place was said to abound. It has been mentioned before,
+that the feathers of these birds are in great request, being much used in
+making their cloaks and other ornamental parts of their dress.
+
+At eight, having seen nothing of the island, we hauled the wind to the
+northward till midnight, and then tacked, and stood on a wind to the south-
+east till day-light next morning, at which time Tahoora bore E.N.E., five
+or six leagues distant. We afterward steered W.S.W, and made the
+Discovery's signal to spread four miles upon our starboard-beam. At noon
+our latitude was 21° 27', and our longitude 198° 42'; and having stood on
+till five, in the same direction, we made the Discovery's signal to come
+under our stern, and gave over all hopes of seeing Modoopapappa. We
+conceived that it might probably lie in a more southerly direction from
+Tahoora, than that in which we had steered; though, after all, it is
+possible that we might have passed it in the night, as the islanders
+described it to be very small, and almost even with the surface of the sea.
+
+The next day we steered west; it being Captain Clerke's intention to keep
+as near as possible in the same parallel of latitude, till we should make
+the longitude of Awatska Bay, and afterward to steer due north for the
+harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul in that bay, which was also appointed
+for our rendezvous in case of separation. This track was chosen on account
+of its being, as far as we knew, unexplored; and we were not without hopes
+of falling in with some new island on our passage.
+
+We had scarcely seen a bird since our losing sight of Tahoora, till the
+18th in the afternoon, when, being in the latitude of 21° 12', and the
+longitude of 194° 45', the appearance of a great many boobies, and some
+man-of-war birds, made us keep a sharp look-out for land. Toward evening
+the wind lessened, and the north-east swell, which, on the 16th and 17th,
+had been so heavy as to make the ships labour exceedingly, was much abated.
+The next day we saw no appearance of land; and at noon, we steered a point
+more to the southward, viz. W. by S., in the hopes of finding the trade-
+winds, (which blew almost invariably from the E. by N.,) fresher as we
+advanced within the tropic. It is somewhat singular that, though we saw no
+birds in the forenoon, yet toward evening we had again a number of boobies
+and man-of-war birds about us. This seemed to indicate that we had passed
+the land from whence the former flights had come, and that we were
+approaching some other low island.[12]
+
+The wind continued very moderate, with fine weather, till the 23d, when it
+freshened from the N.E. by E., and increased to a strong gale, which split
+some of our old sails, and made the running rigging very frequently give
+way. This gale lasted twelve hours; it then became more moderate, and
+continued so till the 25th at noon, when we entirely lost it, and had only
+a very light air.
+
+On the 26th, in the morning, we thought we saw land to the W.S.W.; but,
+after running about sixteen leagues in that direction, we found our
+mistake; and night coming on, we again steered W. Our latitude, at this
+time, was 19° 45', which was the greatest southing we made in this run; our
+longitude was 183°, and variation 12° 45' E. We continued in this course,
+with little alteration in the wind, till the 29th, when it shifted to the
+S.E. and S.S.E., and, for a few hours in the night, it was in the W.; the
+weather being dark and cloudy, with much rain. We had met, for some days
+past, several turtles, one of which was the smallest I ever saw, not
+exceeding three inches in length. We were also accompanied by man-of-war
+birds, and boobies of an unusual kind, being quite white, except the tip of
+the wing, which was black, and easily mistaken, at first sight, for
+gannets.
+
+The light winds which we had met with for some time past, with the present
+unsettled state of the weather, and the little appearance of any change for
+the better, induced Captain Clerke to alter his plan of keeping within the
+tropical latitudes; and accordingly, at six this evening, we began to steer
+N.W. by N., at which time our latitude was 20° 23', and our longitude 180°
+40'. During the continuance of the light winds, which prevailed almost
+constantly ever since our departure from the Sandwich Islands, the weather
+was very close, and the air hot and sultry; the thermometer being generally
+at 80°, and sometimes at 83°. All this time we had a considerable swell
+from the N.E.; and in no period of the voyage did the ships roll and strain
+so violently.
+
+In the morning of the 1st of April, the wind changed from the S.E. to the
+N.E. by E., and blew a fresh breeze till the morning of the 4th, when it
+altered two points more to the E., and by noon increased to a strong gale,
+which lasted till the afternoon of the 5th, attended with hazy weather. It
+then again altered its direction to the S.E., became more moderate, and was
+accompanied by heavy showers of rain. During all this time, we kept
+steering to the N.W. against a slow, but regular current from that quarter,
+which caused a constant variation from our reckoning by the log, of fifteen
+miles a day. On the 4th, being then in the latitude 26° 17', and longitude
+173° 30', we passed prodigious quantities of what sailors call Portuguese
+men-of-war (_holothuria physalis_), and were also accompanied with a great
+number of sea-birds, amongst which we observed, for the first time, the
+albatross and sheerwater.
+
+On the 6th, at noon, we lost the trade-wind, and were suddenly taken aback,
+with the wind from the N.N.W. At this time our latitude was 29° 50', and
+our longitude 170° l'. As the old running ropes were constantly breaking in
+the late gales, we reeved what new ones we had left, and made such other
+preparations as were necessary for the very different climate with which we
+were now shortly to encounter. The fine weather we met with between the
+tropics had not been idly spent. The carpenters found sufficient employment
+in repairing the boats. The best bower-cable had been so much damaged by
+the foul ground in Karakakooa Bay, and whilst we were at anchor off
+Oneeheow, that we were obliged to cut forty fathoms from it; in converting
+of which, with other old cordage into spunyarn, and applying it to
+different uses, a considerable part of the people were kept constantly
+employed by the boatswain. The airing of sails and other stores, which,
+from the leakiness of the decks and sides of the ships, were perpetually
+subject to be wet, had now become a frequent as well as a laborious and
+troublesome part of our duty.
+
+Besides these cares, which had regard only to the ships themselves, there
+were others, which had for their object the preservation of the health of
+the crews, that furnished a constant occupation to a great number of our
+hands. The standing orders, established by Captain Cook, of airing the
+bedding, placing fires between deck, washing them with vinegar, and smoking
+them with gunpowder, were observed without any intermission. For some time
+past, even the operation of mending the sailors' old jackets had risen into
+a duty both of difficulty and importance. It may be necessary to inform
+those who are unacquainted with the disposition and habits of seamen, that
+they are so accustomed in ships of war to be directed in the care of
+themselves by their officers, that they lose the very idea of foresight,
+and contract the thoughtlessness of infants. I am sure, that if our people
+had been left to their own discretion alone, we should have had the whole
+crew naked, before the voyage had been half finished. It was natural to
+expect, that their experience, during our voyage to the north last year,
+would have made them sensible of the necessity of paying some attention to
+these matters; but if such reflections ever occurred to them, their
+impression was so transitory, that upon our return to the tropical
+climates, their fur-jackets, and the rest of their cold country clothes,
+were kicked about the decks as things of no value; though it was generally
+known in both ships, that we were to make another voyage toward the Pole.
+They were of course picked up by the officers; and being put into casks,
+restored about this time to the owners.
+
+In the afternoon we observed some of the sheathing floating by the ship;
+and on examination found that twelve or fourteen feet had been washed off
+from under the larboard bow, where we supposed the leak to have been, which
+ever since our leaving Sandwich Islands, had kept the people almost
+constantly at the pumps, making twelve inches water an hour. This day we
+saw a number of small crabs, of a pale blue colour; and had again, in
+company, a few albatrosses and sheerwaters. The thermometer in the night-
+time sunk eleven degrees; and although it remained as high as 59°, yet we
+suffered much from the cold, our feelings being as yet by no means
+reconciled to that degree of temperature.
+
+The wind continued blowing fresh from the N. till the 8th in the morning,
+when it became more moderate, with fair weather, and gradually changed its
+direction to the E., and afterward to the S.
+
+On the 9th, at noon, our latitude was 32° 16', our longitude 166° 40', and
+the variation 8° 30' E. And on the 10th, having crossed the track of the
+Spanish galleons from the Manillas to Acapulco, we expected to have fallen
+in with the island of Rica de Plata, which, according to De Lisle's chart,
+in which the route of those ships is laid down, ought to have been in
+sight; its latitude, as there given, being 33° 30' N., and its longitude
+166° E. Notwithstanding we were so far advanced to the northward, we saw
+this day a tropic-bird, and also several other kinds of sea-birds, such as
+puffins, sea-parrots, sheerwaters, and albatrosses.
+
+On the 11th, at noon, we were in latitude 35° 30', longitude 165° 45'; and
+during the course of the day, had sea-birds as before, and passed several
+bunches of sea-weed. About the same time, the Discovery passed a log of
+wood; but no other signs of land were seen.
+
+The next day the wind came gradually round to the east, and increased to so
+strong a gale, as obliged us to strike our top-gallant yards, and brought
+us under the lower sails, and the main top-sail close-reefed. Unfortunately
+we were upon that tack, which was the most disadvantageous for our leak.
+But as we had always been able to keep it under with the hand-pumps, it
+gave us no great uneasiness till the 13th, about six in the afternoon, when
+we were greatly alarmed by a sudden inundation, that deluged the whole
+space between decks. The water, which had lodged in the coal-hole, not
+finding a sufficient vent into the well, had forced up the platforms over
+it, and in a moment set every thing afloat. Our situation was indeed
+exceedingly distressing; nor did we immediately see any means of relieving
+ourselves. A pump, through the upper decks into the coal-hole, could answer
+no end, as it would very soon have been choaked up by the small coals; and
+to bale the water out with buckets was become impracticable, from the
+number of bulky materials that were washed out of the gunner's store-room
+into it, and which, by the ship's motion, were tossed violently from side
+to side. No other method was therefore left, but to cut a hole through the
+bulk-head (or partition) that separated the coal-hole from the fore-hold,
+and by that means to make a passage for the body of water into the well.
+However, before that could be done, it was necessary to get the casks of
+dry provisions out of the forehold, which kept us employed the greatest
+part of the night; so that the carpenters could not get at the partition
+till the next morning. As soon as the passage was made, the greatest part
+of the water emptied itself into the well, and enabled us to get out the
+rest with buckets. But the leak was now so much increased, that we were
+obliged to keep one half of the people constantly pumping and baling, till
+the noon of the 15th. Our men bore with great cheerfulness this excessive
+fatigue, which was much increased by their having no dry place to sleep in;
+and on this account we began to serve their full allowance of grog.
+
+The weather now becoming more moderate, and the swell less heavy, we were
+enabled to clear away the rest of the casks from the fore-hold, and to open
+a sufficient passage for the water to the pumps. This day we saw a greenish
+piece of drift-wood, and fancying the water coloured, we sounded, but got
+no bottom with a hundred and sixty fathoms of line. Our latitude at noon
+this day was 41° 52', longitude 161° 15', variation 6° 30' E.; and the wind
+soon after veering to the northward, we altered our course three points to
+the west.
+
+On the 16th at noon, we were in the latitude of 42° 12', and in the
+longitude of 160° 5'; and as we were now approaching the place where a
+great extent of land is said to have been seen by De Gama, we were glad of
+the opportunity which the course we were steering gave, of contributing to
+remove the doubts, if any should be still entertained, respecting the
+falsehood of this pretended discovery. For it is to be observed, that no
+one has ever yet been able to find who John de Gama was, when he lived, or
+what year this pretended discovery was made.
+
+According to Mr Muller, the first account of it given to the public was in
+a chart published by Texeira, a Portuguese geographer, in 1649, who places
+it ten or twelve degrees to the north-east of Japan, between the latitudes
+of 44° and 45°; and announces it to be _land seen by John de Gama, the
+Indian, in a voyage from China to New Spain_. On what grounds the French
+geographers have since removed it five degrees to the eastward, does not
+appear; except we suppose it to have been done in order to make room for
+another discovery made by the Dutch, called _Company's Land_; of which we
+shall have occasion to speak hereafter.
+
+During the whole day the wind was exceedingly unsettled, being seldom
+steady to two or three points, and blowing in fresh gusts, which were
+succeeded by dead calms. These were not unpromising appearances; but after
+standing off and on the whole of this day, without seeing anything of the
+land, we again steered to the northward, not thinking it worth our while to
+lose time in search of an object, the opinion of whose existence had been
+already pretty generally exploded. Our people were employed the whole of
+the 16th, in getting their wet things dry, and in airing the ships below.
+
+We now began to feel very sharply the increasing inclemency of the northern
+climate. In the morning of the 18th, our latitude being 45° 40', and our
+longitude 160° 25', we had snow and sleet, accompanied with strong gales
+from the S.W. This circumstance will appear very remarkable, if we consider
+the season of the year, and the quarter from which the wind blew. On the
+19th, the thermometer in the day-time remained at the freezing point, and
+at four in the morning fell to 29°. If the reader will take the trouble to
+compare the degree of heat, during the hot sultry weather we had at the
+beginning of this month, with the extreme cold which we now endured, he
+will conceive how severely so rapid a change must have been felt by us.
+
+In the gale of the 18th, we had split almost all the sails we had bent,
+which being our second best suit, we were now reduced to make use of our
+last and best set. To add to Captain Clerke's difficulties, the sea was in
+general so rough, and the ships so leaky, that the sail-makers had no place
+to repair the sails in, except his apartments, which in his declining state
+of health was a serious inconvenience to him.
+
+On the 20th at noon, being in latitude 49° 45' N., and longitude 161° 15'
+E., and eagerly expecting to fall in with the coast of Asia, the wind
+shifted suddenly to the north, and continued in the same quarter the
+following day. However, although it retarded our progress, yet the fair
+weather it brought was no small refreshment to us. In the forenoon of the
+21st we saw a whale and a land-bird; and in the afternoon the water looking
+muddy, we sounded, but got no ground with an hundred and forty fathoms of
+line. During the three preceding days, we saw large flocks of wild fowl, of
+a species resembling ducks. This is usually considered as a proof of the
+vicinity of land, but we had no other signs of it since the 16th, in which
+time we had run upwards of an hundred and fifty leagues.
+
+On the 22d the wind shifted to the N.E., attended with misty weather. The
+cold was exceedingly severe, and the ropes were so frozen that it was with
+difficulty we could force them through the blocks. At noon, the latitude,
+by account, was 51° 38', longitude 160° 7'; and on comparing our present
+position with that given to the southern parts of Kamtschatka in the
+Russian charts, Captain Clerke did not think it prudent to run on toward
+the land all night. We therefore tacked at ten, and having found, had
+ground agreeably to our conjectures, with seventy fathoms of line.
+
+On the 23d, at six in the morning, being in latitude 52° 09', and longitude
+160° 07', on the fog clearing away, the land appeared in mountains covered
+with snow; and extending from N. 3/4 E., to S.W.; a high conical rock,
+bearing S.W., 3/4 W., at three or four leagues distance. We had no sooner
+taken this imperfect view, than we were again covered with a thick fog.
+Being now, according to our maps, only eight leagues from the entrance of
+Awatska Bay, as soon as the weather cleared up we stood in to take a nearer
+view of the land; and a more dismal and dreary prospect I never beheld. The
+coast appears strait and uniform, having no inlets or bays; the ground from
+the shore rises in hills of a moderate elevation, behind which are ranges
+of mountains, whose summits were lost in the clouds. The whole scene was
+entirely covered with snow, except the sides of some of the cliffs which
+rose too abruptly from the sea for the snow to lie upon them.
+
+The wind continued blowing very strong from the N.E., with thick hazy
+weather and sleet, from the 24th to the 28th. During the whole time, the
+thermometer was never higher than 30 1/2°. The ship appeared to be a
+complete mass of ice; the shrowds were so incrusted with it, as to measure
+in circumference more than double their usual size; and, in short, the
+experience of the oldest seaman among us had never met with any thing like
+the continued showers of sleet, and the extreme cold which we now
+encountered. Indeed, the severity of the weather, added to the great
+difficulty of working the ships, and the labour of keeping the pumps
+constantly going, rendered the service too hard for many of the crew, some
+of whom were frostbitten, and others laid up with bad colds. We continued
+all this time standing four hours on each tack, having generally soundings
+of sixty fathoms, when about three leagues from the land, but none at twice
+that distance. On the 25th we had a transient view of the entrance of
+Awatska Bay; but, in the present state of the weather, we were afraid of
+venturing into it. Upon our standing off again we lost sight of the
+Discovery; but, as we were now so near the place of rendezvous, this gave
+us no great uneasiness.
+
+On the 28th in the morning, the weather at last cleared, and the wind fell
+to a light breeze from the same quarter as before. We had a fine warm day;
+and, as we now began to expect a thaw, the men were employed in breaking
+the ice from off the rigging, masts, and sails, in order to prevent its
+falling on our heads. At noon, being in the latitude of 52° 44', and the
+longitude of 159°, the entrance of Awatska Bay bore N.W., distant three or
+four leagues; and, about three in the afternoon, a fair wind sprung up from
+the southward, with which we stood in, having regular soundings, from
+twenty-two to seven fathoms.
+
+The mouth of the bay opens in a N.N.W. direction. The land, on the south
+side, is of a moderate height; to the northward it rises into a bluff head,
+which is the highest part of the coast. In the channel between them, near
+the N.E. side, lie three remarkable rocks; and farther in, near the
+opposite coast, a single detached rock of a considerable size. On the north
+head there is a look-out house, which, when the Russians expect any of
+their ships, upon the coast, is used as a light-house. There was a flag-
+staff on it, but we saw no sign of any person being there.
+
+Having passed the mouth of the bay, which is about four miles long, we
+opened a large circular bason of twenty-five miles in circumference; and,
+at half past four, came to an anchor in six fathoms water, being afraid of
+running foul on a shoal, or some sunk rocks, which are said by Muller[13]
+to lie in the channel of the harbour of St Peter and St Paul. The middle of
+the bay was full of loose ice, drifting with the tide; but the shores were
+still entirely blocked up with it. Great flocks of wild-fowl were seen of
+various species; likewise ravens, eagles, and large flights of Greenland
+pigeons. We examined every corner of the bay with our glasses, in search of
+the town of St Peter and St Paul; which, according to the accounts given us
+at Oonalashka, we had conceived to be a place of some strength and
+consideration. At length we discovered on a narrow point of land to the
+N.N.E., a few miserable log-houses, and some conical huts, raised on poles,
+amounting in all to about thirty; which, from their situation,
+notwithstanding all the respect we wished to entertain for a Russian
+_ostrog_, we were under the necessity of concluding to be Petropaulowska.
+However, in justice to the generous and hospitable treatment we found here,
+I shall beg leave to anticipate the reader's curiosity, by assuring him
+that our disappointment proved to be more of a laughable than a serious
+nature. For, in this wretched extremity of the earth, situated beyond every
+thing that we conceived to be most barbarous and inhospitable, and, as it
+were, out of the very reach of civilization, barricadoed with ice, and
+covered with summer snow, in a poor miserable port, far inferior to the
+meanest of our fishing towns, we met with feelings of humanity, joined to a
+greatness of mind, and elevation of sentiment, which would have done honour
+to any nation or climate.
+
+During the night much ice drifted by us with the tide, and at day-light I
+was sent with the boats to examine the bay, and deliver the letters we had
+brought from Oonalashka to the Russian commander. We directed our course
+toward the village I have just mentioned, and having proceeded as far as we
+were able with the boats, we got upon the ice, which, extended near half a
+mile from the shore. Mr Webber, and two of the seamen, accompanied me,
+whilst the master took the pinnace and cutter to finish the survey, leaving
+the jolly-boat behind to carry us back.
+
+I believe the inhabitants had not yet seen either the ship or the boats;
+for even after we had got on the ice, we could not perceive any signs of a
+living creature in the town. By the time we had advanced a little way on
+the ice, we observed a few men hurrying backward and forward, and presently
+after a sledge drawn by dogs, with one of the inhabitants in it, came down
+to the sea-side, opposite to us. Whilst we were gazing at this unusual
+sight, and admiring the great civility of this stranger, which we imagined
+had brought him to our assistance, the man, after viewing us for some time
+very attentively, turned short round, and went off with great speed toward
+the _ostrog_. We were not less chagrined than disappointed at his abrupt
+departure, as we began to find our journey over the ice attended not only
+with great difficulty, but even with danger. We sunk at every step almost
+knee-deep in the snow, and though we found tolerable footing at the bottom,
+yet the weak parts of the ice not being discoverable, we were constantly
+exposed to the risk of breaking through it. This accident at last actually
+happened to myself; for, stepping on quickly over a suspicious spot, in
+order to press with less weight upon it, I came upon a second, before I
+could stop myself, which broke under me, and in I fell. Luckily I rose
+clear of the ice, and a man that was a little way behind with a boat-hook,
+throwing it to me, I laid it across some loose pieces near me, and by that
+means was enabled to get upon firm ice again.
+
+As we approached the shore, we found the ice, contrary to our expectations,
+more broken than it had been before. We were, however, again comforted by
+the sight of another sledge coming toward us; but instead of proceeding to
+our relief, the driver stopt short, and began to call out to us. I
+immediately held up to him Ismyloff's letters; upon which he turned about,
+and set off back again full speed; followed, I believe, not with the
+prayers of any of our party. Being at a great loss what conclusions to draw
+from this unaccountable behaviour, we continued our march toward the
+_ostrog_, with great circumspection, and when we had arrived within a
+quarter of a mile of it, we perceived a body of armed men marching toward
+us. That we might give them as little alarm, and have as peaceable an
+appearance as possible, the two men who had boat-hooks in their hands, were
+ordered into the rear, and Mr Webber and myself marched in front. The
+Russian party, consisting of about thirty soldiers, was headed by a decent-
+looking person with a cane in his hand. He halted within a few yards of us,
+and drew up his men in a martial and good order. I delivered to him
+Ismyloff's letters, and endeavoured to make him understand, as well as I
+could (though I afterward found in vain), that we were English, and had
+brought the papers from Oonalashka. After having examined us attentively,
+he began to conduct us toward the village, in great silence and solemnity,
+frequently halting his men, to form them in different manners, and make
+them perform several parts of their manual exercise, probably with a view
+to shew us, that if we had the temerity to offer any violence, we should
+have to deal with men who were not ignorant of their business.
+
+Though I was all this time in my wet clothes, shivering with cold, and
+sufficiently inclined to the most unconditional submission, without having
+my fears violently alarmed, yet it was impossible not to be diverted with
+this military parade, notwithstanding it was attended with the most
+unseasonable delay. At length we arrived at the house of the commanding-
+officer of the party, into which we were ushered; and after no small stir
+in giving orders, and disposing of the military without doors, our host
+made his appearance, accompanied by another person, whom we understood to
+be the secretary of the port. One of Ismyloff's letters was now opened, and
+the other sent off by a special messenger to Bolcheretsk, a town on the
+west side of the peninsula of Kamtschatka, where the Russian commander of
+this province usually resides.
+
+It is very remarkable, that they had not seen the ship the preceding day,
+when we came to anchor in the bay, nor indeed this morning, till our boats
+were pretty near the ice. The panic with which the discovery had struck
+them, we found had been very considerable. The garrison was immediately put
+under arms. Two small field-pieces were placed at the entrance of the
+commander's house, and pointed toward our boats; and shot, powder, and
+lighted matches, were all ready at hand.
+
+The officer, in whose house we were at present entertained, was a serjeant,
+and the commander of the _ostrog_. Nothing could exceed the kindness and
+hospitality of his behaviour, after he recovered from the alarm occasioned
+by our arrival. We found the house insufferably hot, but exceedingly neat
+and clean. After I had changed my clothes, which the serjeant's civility
+enabled me to do, by furnishing me with a complete suit of his own, we were
+invited to sit down to dinner, which I have no doubt was the best he could
+procure; and, considering the shortness of time he had to provide it, was
+managed with some ingenuity. As there was not time to prepare soup and
+_bouilli_, we had in their stead some cold beef, sliced, with hot water
+poured over it. We had next a large bird roasted, of a species with which I
+was unacquainted, but of a very excellent taste. After having eaten a part
+of this, it was taken off, and we were served with fish dressed two
+different ways; and soon after the bird again made its appearance, in
+savory and sweet _pates_. Our liquor, of which I shall have to speak
+hereafter, was of the kind called by the Russians _quass_, and was much the
+worst part of the entertainment. The serjeant's wife brought in several of
+the dishes herself, and was not permitted to sit down at table. Having
+finished our repast, during which it is hardly necessary to remark, that
+our conversation was confined to a few bows, and other signs of mutual
+respect, we endeavoured to open to our host the cause and objects of our
+visit to this port. As Ismyloff had probably written to them on the same
+subject, in the letters we had before delivered, he appeared very readily
+to conceive our meaning; but as there was unfortunately no one in the place
+that could talk any other language except Russian or Kamtschadale, we found
+the utmost difficulty in comprehending the information he meant to convey
+to us. After some time spent in these endeavours to understand one another,
+we conceived the sum of the intelligence we had procured to be, that though
+no supply, either of provisions or naval stores, was to be had at this
+place, yet that these articles were in great plenty at Bolcheretsk; that
+the commander would most probably be very willing to give us what we
+wanted; but that till the serjeant had received orders from him, neither he
+nor his people, nor the natives, could even venture to go on board the
+ship.
+
+It was now time for us to take our leave; and, as my clothes were still too
+wet to put on, I was obliged to have recourse again to the serjeant's
+benevolence, for his leave to carry those I had borrowed of him on board.
+This request was complied with very cheerfully; and a sledge, drawn by five
+dogs, with a driver, was immediately provided for each of our party. The
+sailors were highly delighted with this mode of conveyance; and what
+diverted them still more was, that the two boat-hooks had also a sledge
+appropriated to themselves. These sledges are so light, and their
+construction so well adapted to the purposes for which they are intended,
+that they went with great expedition, and perfect safety, over the ice,
+which it would have been, impossible for us, with all our caution, to have
+passed on foot.
+
+On our return, we found the boats towing the ship toward the village; and
+at seven we got close to the ice, and moored with the small bower to the
+N.E., and best bower to the S.W.; the entrance of the bay bearing S. by E.,
+and S. 3/4 E.; and the _ostrog_ N., 1/4 E., distant one mile and a half.
+The next morning the casks and cables were got upon the quarter-deck, in
+order to lighten the ship forward; and the carpenters were set to work to
+stop the leak, which had given us so much trouble daring our last run. It
+was found to have been occasioned by the falling of some sheathing from the
+larboard-bow, and the oakum between the planks having been washed out. The
+warm weather we had in the middle of the day, began to make the ice break
+away very fast, which, drifting with the tide, had almost filled up the
+entrance of the bay. Several of our gentlemen paid their visits to the
+serjeant, by whom they were received with great civility; and Captain
+Clerke sent him two bottles of rum, which he understood would be the most
+acceptable present he could make him, and received in return some fine
+fowls of the grouse kind, and twenty trouts. Our sportsmen met with but bad
+success; for though the bay swarmed with flocks of ducks of various kinds,
+and Greenland pigeons, yet they were so shy that they could not come within
+shot of them.
+
+In the morning of the 1st of May, seeing the Discovery standing into the
+bay, a boat was immediately sent to her assistance; and in the afternoon
+she moored close by us. They told us, that after the weather cleared up on
+the 28th, they found themselves to leeward of the bay; and that when they
+got abreast of it the following day, and saw the entrance choked up with
+ice, they stood off, after firing guns, concluding we could not be here;
+but finding afterward it was only loose drift ice, they had ventured in.
+The next day the weather was so very unsettled, attended with heavy showers
+of snow, that the carpenters were not able to proceed in their work. The
+thermometer stood at 28° in the evening, and the frost was exceedingly
+severe in the night.
+
+The following morning, on our observing two sledges drive into the village,
+Captain Clerke sent me on shore, to enquire whether any message was arrived
+from the commander of Kamtschatka, which, according to the serjeant's
+account, might now be expected, in consequence of the intelligence that had
+been sent of our arrival. Bolcheretsk, by the usual route, is about one
+hundred and thirty-five English miles from Saint Peter and Saint Paul's.
+Our dispatches were sent off in a sledge drawn by dogs, on the 29th, about
+noon. And the answer arrived, as we afterward found, early this morning; so
+that they were only a little more than three days and a half in performing
+a journey of two hundred and seventy miles.
+
+The return of the commander's answer was, however, concealed from us for
+the present; and I was told, on my arrival at the serjeant's, that we
+should hear from him the next day. Whilst I was on shore, the boat which
+had brought me, together with another belonging to the Discovery, were set
+fast in the ice, which a southerly wind had driven from the other side of
+the bay. On seeing them entangled, the Discovery's launch had been sent to
+their assistance, but shared the same fate; and in a short time the ice had
+surrounded them near a quarter of a mile deep. This obliged us to stay on
+shore till evening, when, finding no prospect of getting the boats off,
+some of us went in sledges to the edge of the ice, and were taken off by
+boats sent from the ship, and the rest staid on shore all night.
+
+It continued to freeze hard during the night; but before morning, on the
+4th, a change of wind drifted away the floating ice, and set the boats at
+liberty, without their having sustained the smallest damage.
+
+About ten o'clock in the forenoon, we saw several sledges driving down to
+the edge of the ice, and sent a boat to conduct the persons who were in
+them on board. One of these was a Russian merchant, from Bolcheretsk, named
+Fedositch, and the other a German, called Port, who had brought a letter
+from Major Behm, the commander of Kamtschatka, to Captain Clerke. When they
+got to the edge of the ice, and saw distinctly the size of the ships, which
+lay within about two hundred yards from them, they appeared to be
+exceedingly alarmed; and, before they would venture to embark, desired two
+of our boat's crew might be left on shore as hostages for their safety. We
+afterward found, that Ismyloff, in his letter to the commander, had
+misrepresented us, for what reasons we could not conceive, as two small
+trading boats; and that the serjeant, who had only seen the ships at a
+distance, had not in his dispatches rectified the mistake.
+
+When they arrived on board, we still found, from their cautious and
+timorous behaviour, that they were under some unaccountable apprehensions;
+and an uncommon degree of satisfaction was visible in their countenances,
+on the German's finding a person amongst us with whom he could converse.
+This was Mr Webber, who spoke that language perfectly well; and at last,
+though with some difficulty, convinced them that we were Englishmen and
+friends. Mr Port, being introduced to Captain Clerke, delivered to him the
+commander's letter, which was written in German, and was merely
+complimental, inviting him and his officers to Bolcheretsk, to which place
+the people who brought it were to conduct us. Mr Port, at the same time
+acquainted him, that the major had conceived a very wrong idea of the size
+of the ships, and of the service we were engaged in; Ismyloff, in his
+letter, having represented us as two small English packet boats, and
+cautioned him to be on his guard; insinuating, that he suspected us to be
+no better than pirates. In consequence of this letter, he said there had
+been various conjectures formed about us at Bolcheretsk; that the major
+thought it most probable we were on a trading scheme, and for that reason
+had sent down a merchant to us; but that the officer, who was second in
+command, was of opinion we were French, and come with some hostile
+intention, and was for taking measures accordingly. It had required, he
+added, all the major's authority to keep the inhabitants from leaving the
+town, and retiring up into the country, to so extraordinary a pitch had
+their fears risen from their persuasion that we were French.
+
+Their extreme apprehensions of that nation were principally occasioned by
+some circumstances attending an insurrection that had happened at
+Bolcheretsk, a few years before, in which the commander had lost his life.
+We were informed, that an exiled Polish officer, named Beniowski, taking
+advantage of the confusion into which the town was thrown, had seized upon
+a galliot, then lying at the entrance of the Bolchoireka, and had forced on
+board a number of Russian sailors, sufficient to navigate her; that he had
+put on shore a part of the crew at the Kourile Islands, and among the rest,
+Ismyloff, who, as the reader will recollect, had puzzled us exceedingly at
+Oonalashka, with the history of this transaction; though, for want of
+understanding his language, we could not often make out all the
+circumstances attending it; that he passed in sight of Japan; made Luconia;
+and was there directed how to steer to Canton; that arriving there, he had
+applied to the French, and had got a passage in one of their India ships to
+France; and that most of the Russians had likewise returned to Europe in
+French ships, and had afterward found their way to Petersburg. We met with
+three of Beniowski's crew in the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul; and
+from them we learnt the circumstances of the above story.
+
+On our arrival at Canton, we received a farther corroboration, of the facts
+from the gentlemen of the English factory; who told us, that a person had
+arrived there in a Russian galliot, who said he came from Kamtschatka, and
+that he had been furnished by the French factory with a passage to
+Europe.[14]
+
+We could not help being much diverted with the fears and apprehensions of
+these good people, and particularly with the account Mr Port gave us of the
+serjeant's wary proceedings the day before. On seeing me come on shore, in
+company with some other gentlemen, he had made him and the merchant, who
+arrived in the sledges we had seen come in the morning, hide themselves in
+his kitchen, and listen to our conversation with one another, in hopes that
+by this means they might discover whether we were really English or not.
+
+As we concluded, from the commission and dress of Mr Port, that he might
+probably he the commander's secretary, he was received as such, and
+invited, with his companion, the merchant, to dine with Captain Clerke; and
+though we soon began to suspect, from the behaviour of the latter toward
+him, that he was only a common servant, yet this being no time to sacrifice
+our little comforts to our pride, we prevented an explanation, by not
+suffering the question to be put to him; and, in return for the
+satisfaction we reaped from his abilities as a linguist, we continued to
+let him live on a footing of equality with us.
+
+
+[12] It is highly probable that there are several small islands or rocks
+    in the vicinity of this track, the discovery of which would at least
+    benefit navigation. Thus we are told by Captain Krusenstern, an
+    authority to which we are always glad to appeal, that he saw in
+    latitude 17°, and longitude 169° 30', an extraordinary number of
+    birds, that hovered round his ship in flocks of upwards of a hundred,
+    from which he inferred his having passed near some island, which
+    served as a resting place for them. In confirmation of this opinion,
+    he informs us, that La Perouse in 1786, and an English merchantman in
+    1796, discovered west of the Sandwich Islands, the first in the
+    parallel of 22°, and the latter in that of 18°, two small rocky
+    islands both extremely dangerous; and that the Nero in her passage
+    from America to China in 1805, found near this place a very dangerous
+    sand island, viz. in 173° 35' 45" W., and 26° 2' 48" N. It is perhaps
+    to be regretted, that Krusenstern, who, a few days after the date of
+    the remark now quoted, crossed Captain Clerke's course, should have so
+    resolutely endeavoured, as he says he did, and that too with tolerable
+    success, not to approach the track of that officer nearer than by a
+    hundred or a hundred and twenty miles. It is evident, that, within a
+    smaller distance, he might have made some useful discovery, without,
+    in any measure, endangering his own reputation, as a mere follower in
+    the footsteps of others. Here it may be added, that his course was
+    more northerly than Clerke's, and that he did not experience any of
+    those swells so soon complained of by Captain King.--E.
+
+[13] Voyages made by the Russians from Asia to America, &c., translated
+    from the German, by T. Jeffereys, p. 37.
+
+[14] It hath since appeared, from the Account of Kerguelen's Voyage, that
+    this extraordinary person, who had entered into the French service,
+    was commander of a new settlement at Madagascar, when Kerguelen
+    touched there in 1774.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION II.
+
+
+Scarcity of Provisions and Stores at the Harbour of Saint Peter and Saint
+Paul.--A Party set out to visit the Commander at Bolcheretsk.--Passage up
+the River Awatska.--Account of their Reception by the Toion of Karatchin.--
+Description of a Kamtschadale Dress.--Journey on Sledges.--Description of
+this Mode of Travelling.--Arrival at Natcheekin.--Account of Hot
+Springs.--Embark on the Bolchoireka.--Reception at the Capital.--Generous
+and hospitable Conduct of the Commander and the Garrison.--Description of
+Bolcheretsk.--Presents from the Commander.--Russian and Kamtschadale
+Dancing.--Affecting Departure from Bolcheretsk.--Return to Saint Peter and
+Saint Paul's, accompanied by Major Behm, who visits the Ships.--Generosity
+of the Sailors.--Dispatches sent by Major Behm to Petersburg.--His
+Departure, and Character.
+
+
+Being now enabled to converse with the Russians, by the aid of our
+interpreter, with tolerable facility, our first enquiries were directed to
+the means of procuring a supply of fresh provisions and naval stores; from
+the want of which latter article, in particular, we had been for some time
+in great distress. On enquiry, it appeared, that the whole stock of live
+cattle, which the country about the bay could furnish, amounted only to two
+heifers; and these the serjeant very readily promised to procure us. Our
+applications were next made to the merchant, but we found the terms upon
+which he offered to serve us so exorbitant, that Captain Clerke thought it
+necessary to send an officer to visit the commander at Bolcheretsk, and to
+enquire into the price of stores at that place. As soon as this
+determination was communicated to Mr Port, he dispatched an express to the
+commander to inform him of our intentions, and at the same time to clear us
+from the suspicions that were entertained with respect to the designation
+and purposes of our voyage.
+
+Captain Clerke having thought proper to fix on me for this service, I
+received orders, together with Mr Webber, who was to accompany me as
+interpreter, to be ready to set out the next day. It proved, however, too
+stormy, as did also the 6th, for beginning a journey through so wild and
+desolate a country; but on the 7th, the weather appearing more favourable,
+we set out early in the morning in the ship's boats, with a view to reach
+the entrance of the Awatska at high water, on account of the shoals with
+which the mouth of that river abounds; here the country boats were to meet
+us, and carry us up the stream.
+
+Captain Gore was now added to our party, and we were attended by Messrs
+Port and Fedositsch, with two cossacks, and were provided by our conductors
+with warm furred clothing; a precaution which we soon found very necessary,
+as it began to snow briskly just after we set out. At eight o'clock, being
+stopped by shoal water, about a mile from the mouth of the river, some
+small canoes, belonging to the Kamtschadales, took up us and our baggage,
+and carried us over a spit of sand, which is thrown up by the rapidity of
+the river, and which they told us was continually shifting. When we had
+crossed this shoal, the water again deepened, and here we found a
+commodious boat, built and shaped like a Norway yawl, ready to convey us up
+the river, together with canoes for our baggage.
+
+The mouth of the Awatska is about a quarter of a mile broad, and, as we
+advanced, it narrowed very gradually. After we had proceeded a few miles,
+we passed several branches, which, we were told, emptied themselves into
+other parts of the bay; and that some of those on the left hand flowed into
+the Paratounca river. Its general direction from the bay, for the first ten
+miles, is to the north, after which it turns to the westward; this bend
+excepted, it preserves for the most part a straight course; and the country
+through which it flows, to the distance of near thirty miles from the sea,
+is low and flat, and subject to frequent inundations. We were pushed
+forward by six men, with long poles, three at each end of the boat, two of
+whom were cossacks, the others Kamtschadales, and advanced against a strong
+stream, at the rate, as well as I could judge, of about three miles an
+hour. Our Kamtshadales bore this severe labour with great stoutness for ten
+hours, during which we stopped only once, and that for a short time, whilst
+they took some little refreshment. As we had been told, at our first
+setting out in the morning, that we should easily reach an _ostrog_, called
+Karatchin, the same night, we were much disappointed to find ourselves, at
+sunset, fifteen miles from that place. This we attributed to the delay
+occasioned in passing the shoals we had met with, both at the entrance of
+the river, and in several other places as we proceeded up it; for our boat
+being the first that had passed up the river, the guides were not
+acquainted with the situation of the shifting sand-banks, and unfortunately
+the snow not having yet begun to melt, the shallowness of the river was at
+its extreme.
+
+The fatigue our men had already undergone, and the difficulty of navigating
+the river, which would have been much increased by the darkness of the
+night, obliged us to give up all thoughts of continuing our journey that
+evening. Having therefore found a place tolerably sheltered, and cleared it
+of the snow, we erected a small _marquée_, which we had brought with us;
+and, by the assistance of a brisk fire, and some good punch, passed the
+night not very unpleasantly. The only inconvenience we laboured under was,
+the being obliged to make the fire at some distance from us. For, although
+the ground was to all appearance dry enough before, yet when the fire was
+alighted, it soon thawed all the parts round it into an absolute puddle. We
+admired much the alertness and expedition with which the Kamtschadales
+erected our _marquée_, and cooked our provisions; but what was most
+unexpected, we found they had brought with them their tea-kettles;
+considering it as the greatest of hardships not to drink tea two or three
+times a day.
+
+We set out as soon as it was light in the morning, and had not advanced
+far, before we were met by the _Toion_, or chief of Karatchin, who had been
+apprised of our coming, and had provided canoes that were lighter, and
+better contrived for navigating the higher parts of the river. A commodious
+vessel, consisting of two canoes, lashed close together with cross spars,
+lined with bear-skins, and furnished with fur-cloaks, was also provided for
+us. We now went on very rapidly, the _Toion's_ people being both stout and
+fresh, and remarkable for their expertness in this business. At ten we got
+to the _ostrog_, the seat of his command, where we were received at the
+water-side by the Kamtschadale men and women, and some Russian servants
+belonging to Fedositsch, who were employed in making canoes. They were all
+dressed out in their best clothes. Those of the women were pretty and gay,
+consisting of a full loose robe of white nankeen, gathered close round the
+neck, and fastened with a collar of coloured silk. Over this they wore a
+short jacket without sleeves, made of different-coloured nankeens, and
+petticoats of a slight Chinese silk. Their shirts, which had sleeves down
+to the wrist, were also of silk; and coloured silk handkerchiefs were bound
+round their heads, concealing entirely the hair of the married women,
+whilst those who were unmarried brought the handkerchief under the hair,
+and suffered it to flow loose behind.
+
+This _ostrog_ was pleasantly situated by the side of the river, and
+consisted of three log-houses, three _jourts_, or houses made under ground,
+and nineteen _balagans_, or summer habitations. We were conducted to the
+tent of the _Toion_, who was a plain decent man, born of a Russian woman,
+by a Kamtschadale father. His house, like all the rest in this country, was
+divided into two apartments. A long narrow table, with a bench round it,
+was all the furniture we saw in the outer; and the household stuff of the
+inner, which was the kitchen, was not less simple and scanty. But the kind
+attention of our host, and the hearty welcome we received, more than
+compensated for the poverty of his lodgings.
+
+His wife proved an excellent cook, and served us with fish and game of
+different sorts, and various kinds of heath-berries, that had been kept
+since the last year. Whilst we were at dinner in this miserable hut, the
+guests of a people, with whose existence we had before been scarce
+acquainted, and at the extremity of the habitable globe, a solitary, half-
+worn pewter spoon, whose shape was familiar to us, attracted our attention;
+and, on examination, we found it stamped on the back with the word
+_London_. I cannot pass over this circumstance in silence, out of gratitude
+for the many pleasant thoughts, the anxious hopes, and tender remembrances
+it excited in us. Those who have experienced the effects that long absence
+and extreme distance from their native county produce on the mind, will
+readily conceive the pleasure such trifling incidents can give. To the
+philosopher and politician they may perhaps suggest reflections of a
+different nature.[15]
+
+We were now to quit the river, and perform the next part of our journey on
+sledges; but the thaw had been too powerful in the day-time to allow us to
+set out till the cold of the evening had again made the surface of the snow
+hard and firm. This gave us an opportunity of walking about the village,
+which was the only place we had yet seen free from snow since we landed in
+this country. It stood upon a well-wooded flat, about a mile and a half in
+circumference. The leaves were just budding, and the verdure of the whole
+scene was strongly contrasted with the sides of the surrounding hills,
+which were still covered with snow. As the soil appeared to me very capable
+of producing all the common sorts of garden vegetables, I was greatly
+surprised not to find the smallest spot any where cultivated. If to this we
+add, that none of the inhabitants were possessed of cattle of any sort,
+nothing can be well conceived more wretched than their situation must be
+during the winter months.[16] They were at this time removing from their
+_jourts_ into their _balagans_, which afforded us an opportunity of
+examining both these sorts of habitations; and they will be hereafter more
+particularly described. The people invited us into their houses with great
+good humour; a general air of cheerfulness and content was every where
+visible, to which the approaching change of season might probably not a
+little contribute.
+
+On our return to the _Toion's_, we found supper prepared for us, which
+differed in nothing from our former repast; and concluded with our treating
+the _Toion_ and his wife with some of the spirits we had brought with us,
+made into punch. Captain Gore, who had great generosity on all occasions,
+having afterward made them some valuable presents, they retired to the
+kitchen, leaving us in possession of the outward room, where, spreading our
+bear-skins on the benches, we were glad to get a little repose, having
+settled with our conductors to resume our journey as soon as the ground
+should be judged fit for travelling.
+
+About nine o'clock the same evening we were awakened by the melancholy
+howlings of the dogs, which continued all the time our baggage was lashing
+upon the sledges; but as soon as they were yoked, and we were all prepared
+to set out, this changed into a light cheerful yelping, which, entirely
+ceased the instant they marched off. But before we set out, the reader may
+expect to be made more particularly acquainted with this curious mode of
+travelling.
+
+The body of the sledge is about four feet and a half long, and a foot wide,
+made in the form of a crescent, of light tough wood, strongly bound
+together with wicker-work; which, in those belonging to the better sort of
+people, is elegantly stained of a red and blue colour, and the seat covered
+with bear-skins, or other furs. It is supported by four legs, about two
+feet high, which rest on two long flat pieces of wood, five or six inches
+broad, extending a foot at each end beyond the body of the sledge. These
+are turned up before in the manner of a skate, and shod with the bone of
+some sea-animal. The fore-part of the carriage is ornamented with thongs of
+leather and tassels of coloured cloth; and from the cross-bar, to which the
+harness is joined, are hung links of iron, or small bells, the jingling of
+which they conceive to be encouraging to the dogs. They are seldom used to
+carry more than one person at a time, who sits aside, resting his feet on
+the lower part of the sledge, and carrying his provisions and other
+necessaries, wrapped up in a bundle, behind him. The dogs are usually five
+in number, yoked two and two, with a leader. The reins, not being fastened
+to the head of the dogs, but to the collars, have little power over them,
+and are therefore generally hung upon the sledge, whilst the driver depends
+entirely on their obedience to his voice for the direction of them. With
+this view, the leader is always trained up with a particular degree of care
+and attention; some of them rising to a most extraordinary value on account
+of their docility and steadiness; insomuch, that for one of these, I am
+well assured, forty roubles (or ten pounds) was no unusual price. The
+driver is also provided with a crooked stick, which answers the purpose
+both of whip and reins; as, by striking it into the snow, he is enabled to
+moderate the speed of the dogs, or even to stop them entirely; and when
+they are lazy, or otherwise inattentive to his voice, he chastises them by
+throwing it at them. Upon these occasions their dexterity in picking it up
+again is very remarkable, and forms the principal difficulty of their art.
+But it is indeed not surprising that they should labour to be skilful in a
+practice upon which their safety so materially depends. For they say, that
+if the driver should happen to lose his stick, the dogs will instantly
+perceive it; and unless their leader be of the most sober and resolute
+kind, they will immediately run a-head full speed, and never stop till they
+are quite spent. But as that will not be the case soon, it generally
+happens that either the carriage is overturned, and dashed to pieces
+against the trees, or they hurry down some precipice, and are all buried in
+the snow. The accounts that were given us of the speed of these dogs, and
+of their extraordinary patience of hunger and fatigue, were scarcely
+credible, if they had not been supported by the best authority. We were
+indeed ourselves witnesses of the great expedition with which the
+messenger, who had been dispatched to Bolcheretsk with the news of our
+arrival, returned to the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, though the
+snow was at this time exceedingly soft. But I was informed, by the
+commander of Kamtschatka, that this journey was generally performed in two
+days and a half; and that he had once received an express from the latter
+place in twenty-three hours.
+
+The dogs are fed, during the winter, on the offals of dried and stinking
+fish; but are always deprived of this miserable food a day before they set
+out on a journey, and never suffered to eat before they reach the end of
+it. We were also told, that it was not unusual for them to continue thus
+fasting two entire days, in which time they would perform a journey of one
+hundred and twenty miles.[17] These dogs are in shape somewhat like the
+Pomeranian breed, but considerably larger.
+
+As we did not choose to trust to our own skill, we had each of us a man to
+drive and guide the sledge, which, from the state the roads were now in,
+proved a very laborious business. For, as the thaw had advanced very
+considerably in the vallies, through which our road lay, we were under the
+necessity of keeping along the sides of the hills; and this obliged our
+guides, who were provided with snow-shoes for that purpose, to support the
+sledges, on the lower side, with their shoulders, for several miles
+together. I had a very good-humoured cossack to attend me, who was,
+however, so very unskilful in his business, that we were overturned almost
+every minute, to the great entertainment of the rest of the company. Our
+party consisted in all of ten sledges. That in which Captain Gore was
+carried, was made of two lashed together, and abundantly provided with furs
+and bear-skins; it had ten dogs, yoked four a-breast; as had also some of
+those that were heavy laden with baggage.
+
+When we had proceeded about four miles it began to rain; which, added to
+the darkness of the night, threw us all into confusion. It was at last
+agreed, that we should remain where we were till day-light; and accordingly
+we came to anchor in the snow, (for I cannot better express the manner in
+which the sledges were secured,) and wrapping ourselves up in our furs,
+waited patiently for the morning. About three o'clock we were called on to
+set out, our guides being apprehensive, that if we waited longer we might
+be stopped by the thaw, and neither be able to proceed nor to return. After
+encountering many difficulties, which were principally occasioned by the
+bad condition of the road, at two in the afternoon we got safe to an
+_ostrog_, called Natcheekin, situated on the side of a small stream which
+falls into the Bolchoireka, a little way below the town. The distance
+between Karatchin and Natcheekin is thirty-eight wersts (or twenty-five
+miles;) and had the hard frost continued, we should not, by their account,
+have been more than four hours in performing it; but the snow was so soft,
+that the dogs, almost at every step, sunk up to their bellies; and I was
+indeed much surprised at their being at all able to overcome the
+difficulties of so fatiguing a journey.
+
+Natcheekin is a very inconsiderable _ostrog_, having only one log-house,
+the residence of the _Toion_; five _balagans_, and one _jourt_. We were
+received here with the same formalities, and in the same hospitable manner,
+as at Karatchin; and in the afternoon we went to visit a remarkable hot-
+spring, which is near this village. We saw at some distance the steam
+rising from it as from a boiling cauldron; and as we approached, perceived
+the air had a strong sulphureous smell. The main spring forms a bason of
+about three feet in diameter; besides which there are a number of lesser
+springs, of the same degree of heat, in the adjacent ground; so that the
+whole spot, to the extent of near an acre, was so hot, that we could not
+stand two minutes in the same place. The water flowing from these springs
+is collected in a small bathing pond, and afterwards forms a little
+rivulet, which, at the distance of about an hundred and fifty yards, falls
+into the river. The bath, they told us, had wrought great cures in several
+disorders, such as rheumatisms, swelled and contracted joints, and
+scorbutic ulcers. In the bathing place the thermometer stood at 100°, or
+blood heat; but in the spring, after being immersed two minutes, it was 1°
+above boiling spirits. The thermometer in the air, at this time was 34°; in
+the river 40°; and in the _Toion's_ house 64°. The ground where these
+springs break out is on a gentle ascent; behind which there is a green hill
+of a moderate size. I am sorry I was not sufficiently skilled in botany to
+examine the plants, which seemed to thrive here with great luxuriance; the
+wild garlic, indeed, forced itself on our notice, and was at this time
+springing up very vigorously.
+
+The next morning we embarked on the Bolchoireka in canoes; and having the
+stream with us, expected to be at our journey's end the day following. The
+town of Bolcheretsk is about eighty miles from Natcheekin; and we were
+informed, that, in the summer season, when the river has been full and
+rapid, from the melting of snow on the mountains, the canoes had often gone
+down in a single day; but that, in its present state, we should probably be
+much longer, as the ice had broken up only three days before we arrived;
+and that ours would be the first boat that had attempted to pass. This
+intelligence proved but too true. We found ourselves greatly impeded by the
+shallows; and though the stream in many places ran with great rapidity, yet
+in every half mile we had ripplings and shoals, over which we had to haul
+the boats.[18] The country on each side was very romantic, but unvaried;
+the river running between mountains of the most craggy and barren aspect,
+where there was nothing to diversify the scene but now and then the sight
+of a bear, and the flights of wild fowl. So uninteresting a passage leaves
+me nothing farther to say, than that this, and the following night, we
+slept on the banks of the river, under our _marquée_, and suffered very
+much from the severity of the weather, and the snow, which still remained
+on the ground.
+
+At day-light, on the 12th, we found we had got clear of the mountains, and
+were entering a low extensive plain, covered with shrubby trees. About nine
+in the forenoon, we arrived at an _ostrog_, called Opatchin, which is
+computed to be fifty miles from Natcheekin, and is nearly of the same size
+as Karatchin. We found here a serjeant, with four Russian soldiers, who had
+been two days waiting for our arrival, and who immediately dispatched a
+light boat to Bolcheretsk, with intelligence of our approach. We were now
+put into the trammels of formality; a canoe, furnished with skins and furs,
+and equipped in a magnificent manner, was prepared for our reception, in
+which we were accommodated much at our ease, but to the exclusion of the
+rest of our fellow-travellers. It was with much regret we found ourselves
+obliged to separate from our old companion Monsieur Port, whom we had
+observed to grow every day more shy and distant as we drew nearer the end
+of our journey. Indeed, he had himself told us, before we set out, that we
+paid him a respect he had no title to; but as we had found him a very
+modest and discreet man, we had insisted on his living with us during the
+whole of our journey. The remainder of our passage was performed with great
+facility and expedition, the river growing more rapid as we descended, and
+less obstructed by shoals.
+
+As we approached the capital, we were sorry to observe, from an appearance
+of much stir and bustle, that we were to be received in form. Decent
+clothes had been for some time a scarce commodity amongst us; and our
+travelling dresses were made up of a burlesque mixture of European, Indian,
+and Kamtschadale fashions. We therefore thought it would be too ridiculous
+to make a parade in this trim through the metropolis of Kamtschatka; and,
+as we saw a crowd collected on the banks of the river, and were told the
+commander would be at the water-side to receive us, we stopped short, at a
+soldier's house, about a quarter of a mile from the town, from whence we
+sent Port, with a message to his excellency, acquainting him, that the
+moment we had put off our travelling dresses, we would pay our respects to
+him at his own house; and to beg he would not think of waiting to conduct
+us. Finding, however, that he persisted in his intentions of paying us this
+compliment, we lost no farther time in attiring ourselves, but made all the
+haste in our power to join him at the entrance of the town. I observed my
+companions to be as awkward as I felt myself in making our first
+salutations; bowing and scraping being marks of good breeding, that we had
+now, for two years and a half, been totally unaccustomed to. The manner in
+which we were received by the commander, was the most engaging that could
+be conceived, and increased my mortification at finding that he had almost
+entirely forgot the French language; so that the satisfaction of conversing
+with him was wholly confined to Mr Webber, who spoke the German, his native
+tongue.
+
+In company with Major Behm was Captain Shmaleff, the second in command, and
+another officer, with the whole body of the merchants of the place. They
+conducted us to the commander's house, where we were received by his lady
+with great civility, and found tea and other refreshments prepared for us.
+After the first compliments were over, Mr Webber was desired to acquaint
+the major with the object of our journey, with our want of naval stores,
+flour, and fresh provisions, and other necessaries for the ship's crews,
+and at the same time to assure him, that we were sensible, from what we had
+already seen of the condition of the country about Awatska Bay, we could
+not expect much assistance from him in that quarter; that the impossibility
+of sending heavy stores across the peninsula during the present season of
+the year, was but too apparent, from the difficulties we had met with in
+our journey; and that, long before any material change could take place, we
+should be under the necessity of proceeding on our voyage. We were here
+interrupted by the commander, who observed, that we did not yet know what
+they were capable of doing; that, at least, it was not his business to
+think of the difficulties of supplying our wants, but only to learn what
+were the articles we stood in need of, and the longest time we could allow
+him for procuring them. After expressing our sense of his obliging
+disposition, we gave him a list of our naval stores, the number of cattle,
+and the quantity of flour we were directed to purchase, and told him that
+we purposed recommencing our voyage about the 5th of June.
+
+Our conversation afterward turned upon different subjects; and it will
+naturally be supposed that our enquiries were principally directed to the
+obtaining some information respecting our own country. Having now been
+absent three years, we had flattered ourselves with the certainty of
+receiving intelligence from Major Behm, which could not fail of being
+interesting; and I cannot express the disappointment we felt, on finding
+that he had no news to communicate of a much later date than that of our
+departure from England.
+
+About seven o'clock the commander, conceiving we might be fatigued with our
+journey, and desirous of taking some repose, begged he might conduct us to
+our lodgings. It was in vain that we protested against a compliment which
+we had certainly no title to expect, but that of being strangers; a
+circumstance which seemed, in the opinion of this generous Livonian, to
+counterbalance every other consideration. In our way we passed by two
+guard-houses, where the men were turned out under arms, in compliment to
+Captain Gore; and were afterward brought to a very neat and decent house,
+which the major gave us to understand was to be our residence during our
+stay. Two sentinels were posted at the doors, and, in a house adjoining,
+there was a serjeant's guard. Having shewn us into our apartments, the
+major took his leave, with a promise to see us the next day: and we were
+left to find out at our leisure all the conveniences that he had most amply
+provided for us. A soldier, called a _putpropersckack_, whose rank is
+between that of a serjeant and a corporal, along with our fellow-traveller
+Port, were appointed to be our male domestics; besides whom, there was a
+housekeeper and a cook, who had orders to obey Port's directions in
+dressing us a supper according to our own mode of cookery. We received many
+civil messages in the course of the evening from the principal people of
+the town, purporting, that they would not add to our fatigues by paying
+their respects to us at that time, but would wait upon us in the morning.
+Such well-supported politeness and attention, in a country so desolate and
+uncultivated, formed a contrast exceedingly favourable to its inhabitants;
+and, to finish the piece as it began, at sun-set the serjeant came with the
+report of his guard to Captain Gore.
+
+Early in the morning we received the compliments of the commander, of
+Captain Shmaleff, and of the principal inhabitants of the town, who all
+honoured us with visits soon after. The two first, having sent for Port,
+after we were gone to rest, and enquired of him what articles we seemed to
+be most in want of on board the ships, we found them prepared to insist on
+our sharing with the garrison under their command, in what little stock of
+provisions they had remaining. At the same time they lamented that we had
+arrived at a season of the year, when there was always the greatest
+scarcity of every thing amongst them, the sloops not being yet arrived,
+with their annual supply, from Okotsk.
+
+We agreed to accept the liberality of these hospitable strangers, with the
+best grace we could; but on condition that we might be made acquainted with
+the price of the articles we were to be supplied with, and that Captain
+Clerke should give bills to the amount upon the Victualling Office in
+London. This the major positively refused; and whenever it was afterwards
+urged, stopped us short, by telling us, he was certain that he could not
+oblige his mistress more than in giving every assistance in his power to
+her good friends and allies the English; and that it would be a particular
+satisfaction to her to hear, that, in so remote a part of the world, her
+dominions had afforded any relief to ships engaged in such services as
+ours; that he could not therefore act so contrary to the character of his
+empress as to accept of any bills; but that to accommodate the matter, he
+would take a bare attestation of the particulars with which we might be
+furnished, and that this he should transmit to his court, as a certificate
+of having performed his duty. I shall leave, he continued, to the two
+courts all farther acknowledgments, but cannot consent to accept of any
+thing of the kind alluded to.
+
+When this matter was adjusted, he began to enquire about our private wants,
+saying, he should consider himself as ill used if we had any dealings with
+the merchants, or applied to any other person except himself.
+
+In return for such singular generosity, we had little to bestow but our
+admiration and our thanks. Fortunately, however, Captain Clerke had sent by
+me a set of prints and maps, belonging to the last voyage of Captain Cook,
+which he desired me to present in his name to the commander; who being an
+enthusiast in every thing relating to discoveries, received it with a
+satisfaction which shewed, that, though a trifle, nothing could have been
+more acceptable. Captain Clerke had likewise entrusted me with a
+discretionary power of shewing him a chart of the discoveries made in the
+present voyage; and as I judged that a person in his situation, and of his
+turn of mind, would be exceedingly gratified by a communication of this
+sort, though, out of delicacy, he had forborn to ask more than a few
+general questions on the subject, I made no scruple to repose in him a
+confidence, of which his whole conduct shewed him to be deserving.
+
+I had the pleasure to find, that he felt this compliment as I hoped he
+would, and was much struck at seeing, in one view, the whole of that coast,
+as well on the side of Asia as on that of America, of which his countrymen
+had been so many years employed in acquiring a partial and imperfect
+knowledge.[19]
+
+Excepting this mark of confidence, and the set of prints I have already
+mentioned, we had brought nothing with us that was in the least worth his
+acceptance; for it scarce deserves noticing, that I prevailed on his son, a
+young boy, to accept of a silver watch I happened to have about me; and I
+made his little daughter very happy with two pair of ear-rings of French
+paste. Besides these trifles, I left with Captain Shmaleff the thermometer
+I used on my journey; and he promised me, to keep an exact register of the
+temperature of the air for one year, and to transmit it to Mr Muller, with
+whom he had the pleasure of being acquainted.
+
+We dined this day at the commander's, who, studious on every occasion to
+gratify our curiosity, had, besides a number of dishes dressed in our own
+way, prepared a great variety of others, after the Russian and Kamtschadale
+manner. The afternoon was employed in taking a view of the town and the
+adjacent country. Bolcheretsk is situated in a low swampy plain, that
+extends to the sea of Okotsk, being about forty miles long, and of a
+considerable breadth. It lies on the north side of the Bolchoireka, or
+great river, between the mouth of the Gottsofka and the Bistraia, which
+here empty themselves into this river; and the peninsula, on which it
+stands, has been separated from the continent by a large canal, the work of
+the present commander; which has not only added much to its strength as a
+fortress, but has made it much less liable than it was before to
+inundations. Below the town the river is from six to eight feet deep, and
+about a quarter of a mile broad. It empties itself into the sea of Okotsk,
+at the distance of twenty-two miles; where, according to Krascheninikoff,
+it is capable of admitting vessels of a considerable size. There is not
+corn, of any species, cultivated in this part of the country; and Major
+Behm informed me, that his was the only garden that had yet been planted.
+The ground was, for the most part, covered with snow; that which was free
+from it appeared full of small hillocks, of a black turfy nature. I saw
+about twenty or thirty cows, And the major had six stout horses. These and
+their dogs are the only tame animals they possess; the necessity they are
+under, in the present state of the country, of keeping great numbers of the
+latter, making it impossible to bring up any cattle that are not in size
+and strength a match for them. For, during the summer season, their dogs
+are entirely let loose, and left to provide for themselves, which makes
+them so exceedingly ravenous, that they will sometimes even attack the
+bullocks.
+
+The houses in Bolcheretsk are all of one fashion, being built of logs, and
+thatched. That of the commander is much larger than the rest, consisting of
+three rooms of a considerable size, neatly papered, and which might have
+been reckoned handsome, if the _talc_ with which the windows were covered,
+had not given them a poor and disagreeable appearance. The town consists of
+several rows of low buildings, each consisting of five or six dwellings,
+connected together, with a long common passage running the length of them,
+on one side of which is the kitchen and store-house, and on the other the
+dwelling apartments. Besides these are barracks for the Russian soldiers
+and cossacks, a well-looking church, and a court-room, and at the end of
+the town a great number of _balagans_, belonging to the Kamtschadales. The
+inhabitants, taken all together, amount to between five and six hundred. In
+the evening the major gave a handsome entertainment, to which the principal
+people of the town of both sexes were invited.
+
+The next morning we applied privately to the merchant, Fedositsch, to
+purchase some tobacco for the sailors, who had now been upward of a
+twelvemonth without this favourite commodity. However, this, like all our
+other transactions of the same kind, came immediately to the major's
+knowledge; and we were soon after surprised to find in our house four bags
+of tobacco, weighing-upward of a hundred pounds each, which he begged might
+be presented, in the name of himself and the garrison under his command, to
+our sailors. At the same time they had sent us twenty loaves of fine sugar,
+and as many pounds of tea, being articles they understood we were in great
+want of, which they begged to be indulged in presenting to the officers.
+Along with these Madame Behm had also sent a present for Captain Clerke,
+consisting of fresh-butter, honey, figs, rice, and some other little things
+of the same kind, attended with many wishes that, in his infirm state of
+health, they might be of service to him. It was in vain we tried to oppose
+this profusion of bounty, which I was really anxious to restrain, being
+convinced that they were giving away, not a share, but almost the whole
+stock of the garrison. The constant answer the major returned us on those
+occasions was, that we had suffered a great deal, and that we must needs be
+in distress. Indeed the length of time we had been out since we touched at
+any known port, appeared to them so very incredible, that it required the
+testimony of our maps, and other corroborating circumstances, to gain their
+belief. Amongst the latter was a very curious fact which Major Behm related
+to us this morning, and which, he said, but for our arrival, he should have
+been totally at a loss to account for.
+
+It is well known that the Tschutski are the only people of the north of
+Asia who have maintained their independence, and resisted all the attempts
+that have been made by the Russians to reduce them. The last expedition
+against them was undertaken in the year 1750, and terminated, after various
+success, in the retreat of the Russian forces, and the loss of the
+commanding officer. Since that time the Russians had removed their frontier
+fortress from the Anadir to the Ingiga, a river that empties itself into
+the northern extremity of the sea of Okotsk, and gives its name to a gulf
+situated to the west of that of Penshinsk. From this fort Major Behm had
+received dispatches the day of our arrival at Bolcheretsk, containing
+intelligence that a tribe, or party of the Tschutski, had arrived at that
+place with propositions of friendship, and a voluntary offer of tribute;
+that on enquiring into the cause of this unexpected alteration in their
+sentiments, they had informed his people, that toward the latter end of the
+last summer they had been visited by two very large Russian boats; that
+they had been treated by the people who were in them with the greatest
+kindness, and had entered into a league of friendship and amity with them;
+and that relying on this friendly disposition, they were now come to the
+Russian fort in order to settle a treaty on such terms as might be
+acceptable to both nations. This extraordinary history had occasioned much
+speculation, both at Ingiginsk and Bolcheretsk; and, had we not furnished
+them with a key to it, must have remained perfectly unintelligible. We felt
+no small satisfaction in having, though accidentally, shewn the Russians,
+in this instance, the only true way of collecting tribute and extending
+their dominions; and in the hopes that the good understanding which this
+event hath given rise to, may rescue a brave people from the future
+invasions of such powerful neighbours.
+
+We dined this day with Captain Shmaleff, and in the afternoon, in order to
+vary our amusements, he treated us with an exhibition of the Russian and
+Kamtschadale dancing. No description can convey an adequate idea of this
+rude and uncouth entertainment. The figure of the Russian dance was much
+like those of our hornpipes, and was danced either single, or by two or
+four persons at a time. Their steps were, short and quick, with the feet
+scarce raised from the ground; the arms were fixed close to the sides, the
+body being all the while kept upright and immovable, excepting when the
+parties passed each other, at which time the hand was raised with a quick
+and awkward motion. But if the Russian dance was, at the same time, both
+unmeaning and ridiculous, the Kamtschadale joined to the latter quality the
+most whimsical idea that ever entered into any people's heads. It is
+intended to represent the awkward and clumsy gestures of the bear, which
+these people have frequent opportunities of observing in a great variety of
+situations. It will scarcely be expected that I should give a minute
+description of all the strange postures which were exhibited on these
+occasions; and I shall therefore only mention, that the body was always
+bowed, and the knees bent, whilst the arms were used in imitating the
+tricks and attitudes of that animal.
+
+As our journey to Bolcheretsk had taken up more time than we expected, and
+we were told that our return might prove still more difficult and tedious,
+we were under the necessity of acquainting the commander this evening with
+our intention of setting out the next day. It was not without the utmost
+regret we thought of leaving our new acquaintance, and were therefore most
+agreeably surprised when the major told us, that if we could stay one
+day longer, he would accompany us. He had, he said, made up his dispatches,
+and resigned the command of Kamtschatka to his successor Captain Shmaleff,
+and had prepared every thing for his departure to Okotsk, which was to take
+place in a few days; but that he should feel great pleasure in putting off
+his journey a little longer, and returning with us to Saint Peter and
+Paul's, that be might himself be a witness of every thing being done for us
+that it was in their power to do.
+
+In return for the few trifles I had given to the children of Major Behm, I
+was next morning, the 15th, presented by his little boy with a most
+magnificent Kamtschadale dress, which shall be described in its proper
+place. It was of the kind worn by the principal _Toions_ of the country on
+occasions of great ceremony; and, as I was afterward told by Fedositsch,
+could not have been purchased for one hundred and twenty roubles. At the
+same time I had a present from his daughter of a handsome sable muff.
+
+We afterward dined with the commander, who, in order to let us see as much
+of the manners of the inhabitants, and of the customs of the country, as
+our time would permit, invited the whole of the better sort of people in
+the village to his house this evening. All the women appeared very
+splendidly dressed after the Kamtschadale fashion. The Wives of Captain
+Shmaleff and the other officers of the garrison, were prettily dressed,
+half in the Siberian and half in the European mode; and Madame Behm, in
+order to make the strongest contrast, had unpacked part of her baggage, and
+put on a rich European dress. I was much struck with the richness and
+variety of the silks which the women wore, and the singularity of their
+habits. The whole was like some enchanted scene in the midst of the wildest
+and most dreary country in the world. Our entertainment again consisted of
+dancing and singing.
+
+The next morning being fixed for our departure, we retired early to our
+lodgings, where the first things we saw were three travelling dresses, made
+after the fashion of the country, which the major had provided for us, who
+came himself to our house soon after, to see all our things packed up and
+properly taken care of. Indeed, what with his liberal presents, and the
+kindness of Captain Shmaleff, and many other individuals, who all begged to
+throw in their mite, together with the ample stock of provisions he had
+sent us for our journey, we had amassed no inconsiderable load of baggage.
+
+Early in the morning, every thing being ready for our departure, we were
+invited to call on Madame Behm in our way to the boats, and take our leave
+of her. Impressed, as our minds were, with sentiments of the warmest
+gratitude, by the attentive, benevolent, and generous treatment we had met
+with at Bolcheretsk, they were greatly heightened by the affecting scene
+which presented itself to us on leaving our lodgings; All the soldiers and
+cossacks belonging to the garrison were drawn up on one hand, and the male
+inhabitants of the town, dressed out in their best clothes, on the other;
+and, as soon as we came out of the house, the whole body of the people
+joined in a melancholy song, which the major told us it was usual in that
+country to sing on taking leave of their friends. In this manner we marched
+down to the commander's house, preceded by the drums and music of the
+garrison, where we were received by Madame Behm, attended by the ladies,
+who were dressed in long silk cloaks, lined with very valuable furs of
+different colours, which made a most magnificent appearance. After
+partaking of some refreshment that was prepared for us, we went down to the
+water-side, accompanied by the ladies, who now joined the song with the
+rest of the inhabitants; and, as soon as we had taken leave of Madame Behm,
+and assured her of the grateful sense we should ever retain of the
+hospitality of Bolcheretsk, we found ourselves too much affected not to
+hasten into the boats with all the expedition we could. When we put off,
+the whole company gave us three cheers, which we returned from the boat;
+and, as we were doubling a point, where, for the last time, we saw our
+friendly entertainers, they took their farewell in another cheer.
+
+We found the stream on our return so exceedingly rapid, that,
+notwithstanding the cossacks and Kamtschadales used their utmost exertions,
+we did not reach the first village, Opatchin, till the evening of the 17th,
+which was at the rate of about twenty miles a day. We got to Natcheekin on
+the 19th; and, on the 20th, we crossed the plain to Karatchin. We found the
+road much better than when we had passed it before, there having been a
+smart frost on the night of the 19th. On the 21st, we proceeded down the
+Awatska river; and, before it was dark, got over the shoals which lie at
+the entrance of the bay. During the whole course of our journey we were
+much pleased with the great good-will with which the _Toions_ and their
+Kamtschadales afforded us their assistance at the different _ostrogs_
+through which we passed; and I could not but observe the pleasure that
+appeared in their countenances on seeing the major, and their strong
+expressions of sorrow, on hearing he was so soon going to leave them.
+
+We had dispatched a messenger to Captain Clerke from Bolcheretsk, with an
+account of our reception, and of the major's intention of returning with
+us, at the same time apprising him of the day he might probably expect to
+see us. We were therefore very well pleased to observe, as we approached
+the harbour, all the boats of the two ships coming towards us, the men
+clean, and the officers as well dressed as the scarcity of our clothing
+would permit. The major was much struck at the robust and healthy
+appearance of the boats' crews, and still more at seeing most of them
+without any other covering than a shirt and trowsers, although at the very
+moment it actually snowed.
+
+As Major Behm had expressed his intentions of visiting the ships before he
+landed, as soon as we arrived off the town, I desired to receive his
+commands; when remarking, that from the account we had given of the very
+bad state of Captain Clerke's health, it might be imprudent to disturb him
+at so late an hour, (it being now past nine o'clock,) he thought it, he
+said, most advisable to remain that night on shore. Accordingly, after
+attending him to the serjeant's house, I took my leave for the present, and
+went on board to acquaint Captain Clerke with my proceedings at
+Bolcheretsk. It was with the utmost concern I found, that, in the fortnight
+we had been absent, this excellent officer was much altered for the worse,
+instead of reaping that advantage we flattered ourselves he might from the
+repose of the harbour, and the milk and vegetable diet with which he was
+supplied.
+
+As soon as I had dispatched this business, I returned to the major, and the
+next morning conducted him to the ships; where, on his arrival, he was
+saluted with thirteen guns, and received with every other mark of
+distinction that it was in our power to pay him. He was attended by the
+commander of one of the Russian galliots, the master of a sloop that lay in
+the harbour, two merchants from Bolcheretsk, and the priest of the
+neighbouring village of Paratounca, for whom he appeared to entertain the
+highest respect, and whom I shall hereafter have occasion to mention, on
+account of his great kindness to Captain Clerke.
+
+After visiting the captain, and taking a view of both the ships, he
+returned to dinner on board the Resolution; and, in the afternoon, the
+various curiosities we had collected in the course of our voyage were shewn
+him, and a complete assortment of every article presented to him by Captain
+Clerke. On this occasion I must not pass over an instance of great
+generosity and gratitude in the sailors of both ships; who, when they were
+told of the handsome present of tobacco that was made them by the major,
+desired, entirely of their own accord, that their grog might be stopped,
+and their allowance of spirits presented, on their part, to the garrison of
+Bolcheretsk, as they said they had reason to conclude that brandy was
+scarce in the country, and would be very acceptable to them, since the
+soldiers on shore had offered four roubles a bottle for it. We, who knew
+how much the sailors always felt whenever their allowance of grog was
+stopped, which was generally done in warm weather, that they might have it
+in a greater proportion in cold, and that this offer would deprive them of
+it during the inclement season we had to expect in our next expedition to
+the north, could not but admire so extraordinary a sacrifice; and, that
+they might not suffer by it, Captain Clerke, and the rest of the officers,
+substituted in the room of the very small quantity the major could be
+prevailed on to accept, the same quantity of rum. This, with a dozen or two
+of Cape wine, for Madame Behm, and such other little presents as were in
+our power to bestow, were accepted in the most obliging manner. The next
+morning the tobacco was divided between the crews of the two ships, three
+pounds being allotted to every man that chewed or smoked tobacco, and one
+pound to those that did not.
+
+I have before mentioned that Major Behm had resigned the command of
+Kamtschatka, and intended to set out in, a short time for Petersburg; and
+he now offered to charge himself with any dispatches we might trust to his
+care. This was an opportunity not to be neglected, and accordingly Captain
+Clerke acquainted him, that he would take the liberty of sending by him
+some papers relating to our voyage, to be delivered to our ambassador at
+the Russian court. Our first intentions were to send only a small journal
+of our proceedings; but, afterward, Captain Clerke being persuaded that the
+whole account of our discoveries might safely be trusted to a person who
+had given such striking proofs both of his public and private virtues; and
+considering that we had a very hazardous part of the voyage still to
+undertake, determined to send by him the whole of the journal of our late
+commander, with that part of his own which completed the period of Captain
+Cook's death till our arrival at Kamtschatka, together with a chart of all
+our discoveries. Mr Bayly and myself thought it also proper to send a
+general account of our proceedings to the Board of Longitude; by which
+precautions, if any misfortune had afterward befallen us, the Admiralty
+would have been in possession of a complete history of the principal facts
+of our voyage. It was also determined that a smaller packet should be sent
+by an express from Okotsk, which, the major said, if he was fortunate in
+his passage to that port, would reach Petersburg by December, and that he
+himself should be there in February or March.
+
+During the three following days the major was entertained alternately in
+the two ships in the best manner we were able. On the 25th he took his
+leave, and was saluted with thirteen guns; and the sailors, at their own
+desire, gave him three cheers. The next morning, Mr Webber and myself
+attended him a few miles up the Awatska river, where we met the Russian
+priest, his wife and children, who were waiting to take the last farewell
+of their commander.
+
+It was hard to say, whether the good priest and his family, or ourselves,
+were most affected on taking leave of Major Behm. Short as our acquaintance
+had been, his noble and disinterested conduct had inspired us with the
+highest respect and esteem for him; and we could not part with a person to
+whom we were under such obligations, and whom we had little prospect of
+ever seeing again, without feeling the most tender concern. The intrinsic
+value of the private presents we received from him, exclusive of the stores
+which might be carried to a public account, must have amounted, according
+to the current price of articles in that country, to upward of two hundred
+pounds. But this generosity, extraordinary as it must appear in itself, was
+exceeded by the delicacy with which all his favours were conferred, and the
+artful manner in which he endeavoured to prevent our feeling the weight of
+obligations, which he knew we had no means of requiting. If we go a step
+further, and consider him as supporting a public character, and maintaining
+the honour of a great sovereign, we shall find a still higher subject of
+admiration, in the just and enlarged sentiments by which he was actuated.
+"The service in which you are employed," he would often say, "is for the
+general advantage of mankind, and therefore gives you a right, not merely
+to the offices of humanity, but to the privileges of citizens, in whatever
+country you may be thrown. I am sure I am acting agreeably to the wishes of
+my mistress, in affording you all the relief in our power; and I cannot
+forget either her character, or my own honour, so much, as to barter for
+the performance of my duty." At other times he would tell us, that he was
+particularly desirous of setting a good example to the Kamtschadales, who,
+he said, were but just emerging from a state of barbarism; that they looked
+up to the Russians as their patterns in every thing; and that he had hopes
+they might in future look upon it as a duty incumbent upon them to assist
+strangers to the utmost of their power, and believe that such was the
+universal practice of civilized nations. To all this must be added, that
+after having relieved, to the utmost of his abilities, all our present
+distresses, he shewed himself not much less mindful of our future wants;
+and as he supposed it more than probable we should not discover the passage
+we were in search of, and therefore should return to Kamtschatka in the
+fall of the year, he made Captain Clerke give him a list of what cordage
+and flour we should want, and promised they should be sent from Okotsk, and
+wait our arrival. For the same purpose, he gave Captain Clerke a paper,
+enjoining all the subjects of the empress, whom we might happen to meet, to
+give us every assistance in their power.[20]
+
+
+[15] Mr Dugald Stewart has not neglected to avail himself of this
+    incident, to illustrate his observations on the power which certain
+    perceptions or impressions on the senses possess to awaken
+    associations.--E.
+
+[16] Even so lately as Captain Krusenstern's visit, the number of horned
+    cattle at Saint Peter and Saint Paul's amounted to no more than ten
+    cows and as many young heifers; of course, he remarks, there was no
+    butter, and very little milk. But it is his opinion, that it would be
+    extremely easy to support some hundred head there, as the place
+    abounds in the finest grass. Elsewhere he informs us, that it is
+    calculated there are about six hundred cattle in the whole of
+    Kamtschatka; a number which, for obvious reasons, he thinks may and
+    ought to be increased.--E.
+
+[17] Extraordinary as this may appear, Krascheninikoff, whose account of
+    Kamtschatka, from every thing that I saw, and had an opportunity of
+    comparing it with, seems to me to deserve entire credit, and whose
+    authority I shall, therefore, frequently have recourse to, relates
+    instances of this kind that are much more surprising. "Travelling
+    parties," says he, "are often overtaken with dreadful storms of snow,
+    on the approach of which they drive with the utmost precipitation into
+    the nearest wood, and there are obliged to stay till the tempest,
+    which frequently lasts six or seven days, is over; the dogs remaining
+    all this while quiet and inoffensive; except that sometimes, when
+    prest by hunger, they will devour the reins and the other leathern
+    parts of the harness."--_History and Description of Kamtschatka, by
+    Krascheninikof_.
+
+[18] Captain King does not seem to have heard or inferred any thing as to
+    the danger usually encountered in the summer excursions on the river,
+    from the nature of the vessels employed. This, according to
+    Krusenstern, infinitely more resembles a trough than a boat, being, in
+    fact, the hollow trunk of a tree, and exceedingly apt to be upset by
+    the rapidity of the stream. Thus, he says, scarcely a year passes in
+    which several people are not drowned, both in the Kamtschatka river
+    and the Awatscha; a serious loss any where, no doubt; but in this
+    country, where population is so scanty, and so uncertain, incomparably
+    more important in a political point of view.--E.
+
+[19] On this occasion Major Behm permitted us to examine all the maps and
+    charts that were in his possession. Those relating to the peninsula of
+    the Tschutski, were made in conformity to the information collected by
+    Plenishner, between the years 1760 and 1770. As the charts of
+    Plenishner were afterwards made use of, according to Mr Coxe, in the
+    compilation of the General Map of Russia, published by the Academy in
+    1776, it may be necessary to observe, that we found them exceedingly
+    erroneous; and that the compilers of the General Map seem to have been
+    led into some mistakes on his authority. Those in which the islands on
+    the coast of America were laid down, we found to contain nothing new,
+    and to be much less accurate than those we saw at Oonalashka.
+
+[20] The reader need scarcely be reminded, that mention is made in the
+    introduction to this voyage, of an honourable testimony of British
+    gratitude for the extraordinary services of this generous man. Of his
+    subsequent history, we regret to say, we are entirely ignorant.--E.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION III.
+
+
+Continuation of Transactions in the Harbour of St Peter and St
+Paul.--Abundance of Fish.--Death of a Seaman belonging to the
+Resolution.--The Russian Hospital put under the Care of the Ship's
+Surgeons.--Supply of Flour and Cattle.--Celebration of the King's
+Birth-day.--Difficulties in Sailing out of the Bay.--Eruption of a
+Volcano.--Steer to the Northward.--Cheepoonskoi Noss.--Errors of the
+Russian Charts.--Kamptschatskoi Noss.--Island of St Laurence.--View, from
+the same Point, of the Coasts of Asia and America, and the Islands of St
+Diomede.--Various Attempts to get to the North, between the two
+Continents.--Obstructed by Impenetrable Ice.--Sea-horses and White Bears
+killed.--Captain Clerke's Determination and future Designs.
+
+
+Having concluded the last section with an account of our return from
+Bolcheretsk, accompanied by Major Behm, the commander of Kamtschatka, and
+of his departure, I shall proceed to relate the transactions that passed in
+the harbour of St Peter and St Paul during our absence. On the 7th of May,
+soon after we had left the bay, a large piece of ice drove across the cut-
+water of the Resolution, and brought home the small bower-anchor. This
+obliged them to weigh the other anchor, and moor again. The carpenters who
+were employed in stopping the leak, were obliged to take off a great part
+of the sheathing from the bows, and found many of the trunnels so very
+loose and rotten, as to be easily drawn out with the fingers.
+
+On the 11th, they had heavy gales from the N.E., which obliged both the
+ships to strike yards and topmasts; but in the afternoon the weather being
+more moderate, and the ice having drifted away as far as the mouth of the
+harbour of St Peter and St Paul, they warped close to the shore for the
+greater convenience, of watering and wooding, and again moored as before;
+the town bearing N. 1/2 W., half a mile distant, and the mouth of the bay
+shut in by the southernmost point of Rakowina harbour, S.
+
+The next day a party was sent on shore to cut wood, but made little
+progress on account of the snow, which still covered the ground. A
+convenient spot was cleared away abreast of the ships, where there was a
+fine run of water; and a tent being erected for the cooper, the empty casks
+were landed, and the sail-makers sent on shore.
+
+On the 15th, the beach being clear of ice, the people were sent to haul the
+seine, and caught an abundant supply of fine flat fish for both the ships'
+companies. Indeed from this time, during the whole of our stay in the
+harbour, we were absolutely overpowered with the quantities of fish which
+came in from every quarter. The _Toions_, both of this town, and of
+Paratounca, a village in the neighbourhood, had received orders from Major
+Behm to employ all the Kamtschadales in our service; so that we frequently
+could not take into the ships the presents that were sent us. They
+consisted in general of fish, cod, trout, and herring. These last, which
+were in their full perfection, and of a delicious flavour, were exceedingly
+abundant in this bay. The Discovery's people surrounded at one time so
+great a quantity in their seine, that they were obliged to throw a vast
+number out, lest the net should be broken to pieces; and the cargo they
+landed was afterward so plentiful, that besides a sufficient store for
+immediate use, they filled as many casks as they could spare for salting;
+and after sending to the Resolution a sufficient quantity for the same
+purpose, they left several bushels behind on the beach.
+
+The snow now began to disappear very rapidly, and abundance of wild garlic,
+celery, and nettle-tops, were gathered for the use of the crews; which
+being boiled with wheat and portable soup, made them a wholesome and
+comfortable breakfast; and with this they were supplied every morning. The
+birch-trees were also tapped, and the sweet juice, which they yielded in
+great quantities, was constantly mixed with the men's allowance of brandy.
+
+The next day a small bullock, which had been procured for the ship's
+company by the serjeant, was killed; and weighed two hundred and seventy-
+two pounds. It was served out to both crews for their Sunday's dinner,
+being the first piece of fresh beef they had tasted since our departure
+from the Cape of Good Hope, in December 1776, a period of near two years
+and a half.
+
+This evening died John Macintosh, the carpenter's mate, after having
+laboured under a dysentery ever since our departure from the Sandwich
+islands; he was a very hard working quiet man, and much regretted by his
+messmates. He was the fourth person we lost by sickness during the voyage;
+but the first who could be said, from his age and the constitutional habits
+of his body, to have had on our setting out an equal chance with the rest
+of his comrades; Watman, we supposed to be about sixty years of age, and
+Roberts and Mr Anderson, from the decay which had evidently commenced
+before we left England, could not, in all probability, under any
+circumstances, have lived a greater length of time than they did.
+
+I have already mentioned, that Captain Clerke's health continued daily to
+decline, notwithstanding the salutary change of diet which the country of
+Kamtschatka afforded him. The priest of Paratounca, as soon as he heard of
+the infirm state he was in, supplied him every day with bread, milk, fresh
+butter, and fowls, though his house was sixteen miles from the harbour
+where we lay.
+
+On our first arrival, we found the Russian hospital, which is near the town
+of St Peter and St Paul, in a condition truly deplorable. All the soldiers
+were, more or less, affected by the scurvy, and a great many in the last
+stage of that disorder. The rest of the Russian inhabitants were also in
+the same condition; and we particularly remarked, that our friend the
+serjeant, by making too free with the spirits we gave him, had brought on
+himself, in the course of a few days, some of the most alarming symptoms of
+that malady. In this lamentable state, Captain Clerke put them all under
+the care of our surgeons, and ordered a supply of sourkrout, and malt, for
+wort, to be furnished for their use. It was astonishing to observe the
+alteration in the figures of almost every person we met on our return from
+Bolcheretsk; and I was informed by our surgeons, that they attributed their
+speedy recovery principally to the effects of the sweetwort.[21]
+
+On the 1st of June we got on board two hundred and fifty poods, or nine
+thousand pound weight of rye-flour, with which we were supplied from the
+stores of St Peter and St Paul; and the Discovery had a proportional
+quantity. The men were immediately put on full allowance of bread, which
+they had not been indulged in since our leaving the Cape of Good Hope. The
+same day our watering was completed, having got on board sixty-five tons.
+
+On the 4th we had fresh breezes and hard rain, which disappointed us in our
+design of dressing the ships, and obliged us to content ourselves with
+firing twenty-one guns in honour of the day, and celebrating it in other
+respects in the best manner we were able. Port, who was left with us on
+account of his skill in languages, behaved himself with so much modesty and
+discretion, that as soon as his master was gone, he was no longer Jean
+Port, but Monsieur Port, the interpreter; and partook, as well as the
+serjeant (in his capacity of commander of the place), of the entertainment
+of the day. Our worthy friend, the priest of Paratounca, having got
+intelligence of its being our king's birth-day, gave also a sumptuous
+feast; at which some of our gentlemen were present, who seemed highly
+delighted with their entertainment, which consisted of abundance of good
+eating and drinking, together with dancing.
+
+On the 6th, twenty head of cattle were sent us by the commander's orders,
+from the Verchnei _ostrog_, which is situated on the river Kamtschatka, at
+the distance of near a hundred miles from this place, in a direct line.
+They were of a moderate size; and, notwithstanding the Kamtschadales had
+been seventeen days in driving them down to the harbour, arrived in good
+condition. The four following days were employed in making ready for sea;
+and on the 11th, at two in the morning, we began to unmoor; but before we
+had got one anchor up, it blew so strong a gale from the N.E., that we kept
+fast, and moored again; conjecturing, from the position of the entrance of
+the bay, that the current of wind would set up the channel. Accordingly,
+the pinnace being sent out to examine the passage, returned with an
+account, that the wind blew strong from the S.E., with a great swell
+setting into the bay, which would have made any attempt to get to sea very
+hazardous.
+
+Our friend Port now took his leave of us, and carried with him the box with
+our Journals, which was to go by the major, and the packet that was to be
+sent express. On the 12th, the weather being more moderate, we began to
+unmoor again; but, after breaking the messenger, and reeving a running
+purchase with a six-inch hawser, which also broke three times, we were
+obliged at last to heave a strain at low water, and wait for the flowing of
+the tide to raise the anchor. This project succeeded; but not without
+damaging the cable in the wake of the hawse. At three we weighed the best
+bower, and set sail; and at eight having little wind, and the tide making
+against us, we dropped anchor again in ten fathoms, off the mouth of
+Rakowina harbour; the _ostrog_ bearing N. by E. 1/2 E., two miles and a
+half distant; the Needle Rocks on the east side of the passage, S.S.E. 1/2
+E.; and the high rock, on the west side of the passage, S.
+
+On the 13th, at four in the morning, we got under way with the ebb tide;
+and there being a dead calm, the boats were sent ahead to tow the ships. At
+ten the wind springing up from the S.E. by S., and the tide having turned,
+we were again obliged to drop anchor in seven fathoms; the Three Needle
+Rocks bearing S. 1/2 E.; and the _ostrog_ N. 1/2 E., at the distance of one
+mile from the nearest land. After dinner I went with Captain Gore on shore
+on the east side of the passage, where we saw, in two different places, the
+remains of extensive villages; and on the side of the hill an old ruined
+parapet, with four or five embrasures. It commanded the passage up the
+mouth of the bay; and in Beering's time, as he himself mentions, had guns
+mounted on it. Near this place were the ruins of some caverns under ground,
+which we supposed to have been magazines.
+
+At six in the afternoon we weighed with the ebb tide, and turned to
+windward; but at eight a thick fog arising, we were obliged to bring-to, as
+our soundings could not afford us a sufficient direction for steering
+between several sunk rocks, which lie on each side of the passage we had to
+make. In the morning of the 14th, the fog clearing away, we weighed as soon
+as the tide began to ebb, and having little wind, sent the boats ahead to
+tow; but at ten o'clock, both the wind and tide set in so strong from the
+sea, that we were again obliged to drop anchor in thirteen fathoms, the
+high rock bearing W. 1/4 S., distant three quarters of a mile. We remained
+fast for the rest of the day, the wind blowing fresh into the mouth of the
+bay; and toward evening, the weather had a very unusual appearance, being
+exceedingly dark and cloudy, with an unsettled shifting wind.
+
+Before day-light, on the 15th, we were surprised with a rumbling noise,
+resembling distant hollow thunder; and when the day broke, we found the
+decks and sides of the ships covered with a fine dust like emery, near an
+inch thick. The air at the same time continued loaded and darkened with
+this substance, and toward the _volcano_ mountain, situated to the north of
+the harbour, it was so thick and black, that we could not distinguish the
+body of the hill. About twelve o'clock, and during the afternoon, the
+explosions became louder, and were followed by showers of cinders, which
+were in general about the size of peas; though many were picked up from the
+deck larger than a hazel-nut. Along with the cinders fell several small
+stones, which had undergone no change from the action of fire. In the
+evening we had dreadful thunder and lightning, which, with the darkness of
+the atmosphere, and the sulphureous smell of the air, produced altogether a
+most awful and terrifying effect. We were at this time about eight leagues
+from the foot of the mountain.
+
+On the 16th, at day-light, we again weighed anchor, and stood out of the
+bay; but the ebb tide setting across the passage upon the eastern shore,
+and the wind falling, we were driven very near the Three Needle Rocks,
+which lie on that side of the entrance, and obliged to hoist out the boats,
+in order to tow the ships clear of them. At noon we were two leagues from
+the land, and had soundings with forty-three fathoms of line, over a bottom
+of small stones, of the same kind with those which fell on our decks after
+the eruption of the _volcano_; but whether they had been, left there by the
+last, or by some former eruptions, we were not able to determine.
+
+The aspect of the country was now very different from what it had been on
+our first arrival. The snow, excepting what remained on the tops of some
+very high mountains, had disappeared; and the sides of the hills, which in
+many parts were well wooded, were covered with a beautiful verdure.
+
+As it was Captain Clerke's intention to keep as much in sight of the coast
+of Kamtschatka as the weather would permit, in order to determine its
+position, we continued steering to the N.N.E, with light and variable winds
+till the 18th. The _volcano_ was still seen throwing up immense volumes of
+smoke, and we had no soundings with one hundred and fifty fathoms, at the
+distance of four leagues from the shore.
+
+On the 18th, the wind freshening from the south, the weather became so
+thick and hazy, as to make it imprudent to attempt any longer to keep in
+sight of the land. But that we might be ready to resume our survey,
+whenever the fogs should disperse, we ran on in the direction of the coast,
+as laid down in the Russian charts, and fired signal guns for the Discovery
+to steer the same course. At eleven o'clock, just before we lost sight of
+the land, Cheepoonskoi Noss, so called by the Russians, (a description of
+which, as well as the coast between it and Awatska Bay, will be given,
+hereafter), bore N.N.E., distant seven or eight leagues.
+
+On the 20th, at three in the morning, the weather having cleared up, we
+stood in toward the land; and in an hour's time saw it ahead, extending
+from N.W. to N.N.E., distant about five leagues. The north part we took to
+be Kronotskoi Noss; its position in the Russian charts agreeing nearly with
+our reckoning as to its latitude, which was 54° 42'; but in longitude we
+differed from them considerably, they placing it 1° 48' E. of Awatska;
+whereas our reckoning, corrected by the time-keepers and lunar
+observations, makes it 3° 34' eastward of that place, or 162° 17' E. from
+Greenwich. The land about this cape is very high, and the inland mountains
+were still covered with snow. The shore breaks off in steep cliffs, and the
+coast is without appearance of inlets or bays. We had not been long
+gratified with this sight of the land, when the Wind freshened from the
+S.W., and brought on a thick fog, which obliged us to stand off to the
+N.E.by E. The weather clearing up again at noon, we steered toward the
+land, expecting to fall in with Kamtschatskoi Noss, and had sight of it at
+day-break of the 21st.
+
+The southerly wind was soon after succeeded by a light breeze blowing off
+the land, which prevented our approaching the coast sufficiently near to
+describe its aspect, or ascertain with accuracy its direction. At noon our
+latitude, by observation, was 55° 52', and longitude (deduced from a
+comparison of many lunar observations, taken near this time, with the time-
+keepers), 163° 50'; the extremities of the land bearing N.W. by W. 3/4 W.,
+and N. by W. 3/4 W., the nearest part about eight leagues distant. At nine
+o'clock in the evening, having approached about two leagues nearer the
+coast, we found it formed a projecting peninsula, extending about twelve
+leagues in a direction nearly north and south. It is level, and of a
+moderate height, the southern extremity terminating in a low sloping point;
+that to the north forming a steep bluff head; and between them, about four
+leagues to the southward of the northern cape, there is a considerable
+break in the land. On each side of this break the land is quite low; beyond
+the opening rises a remarkable saddle-like hill; and a chain of high
+mountains, covered with snow, ranges along the back of the whole peninsula.
+
+As the coast runs in an even direction, we were at a great loss where to
+place Kamtschatskoi Noss, which, according to Muller, forms a projecting
+point about the middle of the peninsula, and which certainly does not
+exist; but I have since found, that in the general map published by the
+Academy of Petersburgh in 1776, that name is given to the southern cape.
+This was found, by several accurate observations, to be in latitude 56° 3',
+longitude 163° 20'; the difference, in longitude, from the Russian charts,
+being the same as at Kronotskoi Noss. The variation of the compass at this
+time was 10° E. To the southward of this peninsula, the great river
+Kamtschatka falls into the sea.
+
+As the season was too far advanced to admit of our making an accurate
+survey of the coast of Kamtschatka, it was Captain Clerke's plan, in our
+run to Beering'a Strait, to determine principally the positions of the
+projecting points of the coast. We therefore directed our course across an
+extensive bay, laid down between Kamtschatskoi Noss and Olutorskoi Noss,
+intending to make the latter; which, according to the Russian geographers,
+terminates the peninsula called Kamtschatka, and becomes the southern
+boundary of the Koriaki country.
+
+On the 22d we passed a dead whale, which emitted a horrid stench,
+perceivable at upward of a league's distance; it was covered with a great
+number of sea-birds, that were feasting on it.
+
+On the 24th, the wind, which had varied round the compass the three
+preceding days, fixed at S.W., and brought clear weather, with which we
+continued our course to the N.E. by N. across the bay, without any land in
+sight.
+
+This day we saw a great number of gulls, and were witnesses to the
+disgusting mode of feeding of the arctic gull, which has procured it the
+name of the parasite; and which, if the reader is not already acquainted
+with it, he will find in the note below.[22]
+
+On the 25th, at one o'clock in the afternoon, being in latitude 59° 12',
+longitude 168° 35', the wind freshening from the same quarter, a thick fog
+succeeded; and this unfortunately just at the time we expected to see
+Olutorskoi Noss, which, if Muller places it right in latitude 59° 3O', and
+in longitude 167°36', could only have then been twelve leagues from us; at
+which distance, land of a moderate height might easily have been seen. But
+if the same error in longitude prevails here, which we have hitherto
+invariably found, it would have been much nearer us, even before the fog
+came on; and as we saw no appearances of land at that time, it must either
+have been very low, or there must be some mistake of latitude in Muller's
+account. We tried soundings, but had no ground with one hundred and sixty
+fathoms of line.
+
+The weather still thickening, and preventing a nearer approach to the land,
+at five we steered E. by N., which is somewhat more easterly than the
+Russian charts lay down the trending of the coast from Olutorskoi Noss. The
+next day we had a fresh gale from the S.W., which lasted till the 27th at
+noon, when the fogs clearing away, we stood to the northward, in order to
+make the land. The latitude at noon, by observation, was 59° 49', longitude
+175° 43'. Notwithstanding we saw shags in the forenoon, which are supposed
+never to go far from land, yet there was no appearance of it this day; but
+on the 28th, at six in the morning, we got sight of it to the N.W. The
+coast shews itself in hills of a moderate height; but inland, others are
+seen to rise considerably. We could observe no wood, and the snow lying
+upon them in patches, gave the whole a very barren appearance. At nine we
+were about ten miles from the shore, the southern extremity bearing W. by
+S., six leagues distant, beyond which the coast appeared to trend to the
+westward. This point being in latitude 61° 48', longitude 174°, 48', lies,
+according to the Russian charts, near the mouth of the river Opuka. At the
+same time the northern extreme bore N. by W.; between which and a hill
+bearing N.W. by W. 1/4 W., and at this distance appearing to us like an
+island, the coast seemed to bend to the westward, and form a deep bay.
+
+About eight miles from land, we perceived ourselves in a strong rippling;
+and being apprehensive of foul ground, we bore away to the N.E., along the
+shore; notwithstanding, on heaving the lead, we found regular soundings of
+twenty-four fathoms, over a gravelly bottom; from whence we concluded, that
+this appearance was occasioned by a tide, at that time running to the
+southward. At noon, the extremes of the land bearing W.S.W. 3/4 W., and
+N.N.E. 3/4 E., distant from the nearest shore four leagues, we were abreast
+of the low land, which we now perceived to join the two points, where we
+had before expected to find a deep bay. The coast bends a little to the
+westward, and has a small inlet, which may probably be the mouth of some
+trifling stream. Our latitude, by observation, was 61° 56', and longitude
+175° 43', and the variation of the compass 17° 30' E.
+
+We continued during the afternoon to run along the shore, at the distance
+of four or five leagues, with a moderate westerly breeze, carrying regular
+soundings from twenty-eight to thirty-six fathoms. The coast presented the
+same barren aspect as to the southward; the hills rising considerably
+inland, but to what height, the clouds on their tops put it out of our
+power to determine. At eight in the evening, land was thought to have been
+seen to the E. by N., on which, we steered to the southward of E.; but it
+turned out to be only a fog-bank. At midnight, the extreme point bearing
+N.E. 1/4 E., we supposed it to be Saint Thadeus's Noss; to the southward of
+which the land trends to the westward, and forms a deep bight, wherein,
+according to the Russian charts, lies the river Katirka.
+
+On the 29th, the weather was unsettled and variable, with the wind from the
+N.E. At noon of the 30th, our latitude, by observation, was 61° 48', and
+longitude 180° 0'; at which time Saint Thadeus's Noss bore N.N.W., twenty-
+three leagues distant, and beyond it we observed the coast stretching
+almost directly N. The most easterly point of the Noss is in latitude 62°
+50', and longitude 179° 0', being 3-1/2° more to the E. than what the
+Russians make it. The land about it must be of a considerable height, from
+its being seen at so great a distance. During the two last days, we saw
+numbers of whales, large seals, and sea-horses; also gulls, sea-parrots,
+and albatrosses. We took the advantage of a little calm weather to try for
+fish, and caught abundance of fine cod. The depth of water from sixty-five
+to seventy-five fathoms.
+
+On the 1st of July at noon, Mr Bligh having moored a small keg with the
+deep-sea lead, in seventy-five fathoms, found the ship made a course N. by
+E., half a mile an hour. This he attributed to the effect of a long
+southerly swell, and not to that of any current. The wind freshening from
+the S.E. toward evening, we shaped our course to the N.E. by E., for the
+point called in Beering's chart Tschukotskoi Noss, which we had observed on
+the 4th of September last year, at the same time that we saw, to the S E.,
+the island of Saint Laurence. This cape, and Saint Thadeus's Noss, form the
+N.E. and S.W. extremities of the large and deep gulph of Anadir, into the
+bottom of which the river of that name empties itself, dividing as it
+passes the country of the Koriacs from that of the Tschutski.
+
+On the 3d at noon, the latitude, by observation, was 63° 33', and the
+longitude 186° 45'; half an hour after which we got sight of the
+Tschukotskoi Noss, bearing N. 1/2 W., thirteen or fourteen leagues distant;
+and at five in the afternoon saw the island of Saint Laurence, bearing E.
+3/4 N.; and another island a little to the eastward of it, which we
+supposed to be between Saint Laurence and Anderson's Island, about six
+leagues E.S.E. of the former. As we had no certain accounts of this island,
+Captain Clerke was desirous of a nearer prospect, and immediately hauled
+the wind toward it; but unfortunately we were not able to weather the
+island of Saint Laurence, and were therefore under the necessity of bearing
+up again, and passing them all to the leeward.
+
+We had a better opportunity of settling the longitude of the island Saint
+Laurence, when we last saw it than now. But seeing it at that time but
+once, and to the southward, we could only determine its latitude so far as
+we could judge of distances; whereas now the noon observations enabled us
+to ascertain it correctly, which is 63° 47'. Its longitude was found to be
+188° 15' as before. This island, if its boundaries were at this time within
+our view, is about three leagues in circuit. The north part may be seen at
+the distance of ten or twelve leagues; but as it falls in lowland to the
+south-east, the extent of which we could not see, some of us conjectured
+that it might probably be joined to the land to the eastward of it; this,
+however, the haziness of the weather prevented our ascertaining. These
+islands, as well as the land about the Tschukotskoi Noss, were covered with
+snow, and presented us with a most dreary picture. At midnight, Saint
+Laurence bore S.S.E., five or six miles distant; and our depth of water was
+eighteen fathoms. We were accompanied by various kinds of sea-fowl, and saw
+several small crested hawks.
+
+The weather still continuing to thicken, we lost all sight of land till the
+5th, when it appeared both to the N.E. and N.W, Our latitude, by account,
+was at this time 65° 24', longitude 189° 14'. As the islands of Saint
+Diomede, which lie between the two continents in Beering's strait, were
+determined by us last year to be in latitude 65° 48', we could not
+reconcile the land to the N.E., with the situation of these islands. We
+therefore stood toward the land till three in the afternoon, when we were
+within four miles of it, and finding it to be two islands, were pretty well
+satisfied of their being the same; but the weather still continuing hazy,
+to make sure of our situation, we stood over to the coast of Asia till
+seven in the evening; at which time we were within two or three leagues of
+the east cape of that continent.
+
+This cape is a high round head of land, extending four or five miles from
+north to south, forming a peninsula, and connected with the continent by a
+narrow neck of low land. Its shore is bold, and off its north part are
+three high, detached, spiral rocks. At this time it was covered with snow,
+and the beach surrounded with ice. We were now convinced, that we had been
+under the influence of a strong current, setting to the north, that had
+caused an error in our latitude at noon of twenty miles. In passing this
+strait the last year, we had experienced the same effect.
+
+Being at length sure of our position, we held on to the N. by E. At ten at
+night the weather becoming clear, we had an opportunity of seeing, at the
+same moment, the remarkable peaked hill, near Cape Prince of Wales, on the
+coast of America, and the east cape of Asia, with the two connecting
+islands of Saint Diomede between them.[23]
+
+At noon on the 6th, the latitude, by account, was 67° N., and the longitude
+191° 6' E. Having already passed a considerable number of large masses of
+ice, and observed that it still adhered in several places to the shore on
+the continent of Asia, we were not much surprised to fall in, at three in
+the afternoon, with an extensive body of it, stretching away to the
+westward. This sight gave great discouragement to our hopes of advancing
+much farther northward this year, than we had done the preceding.
+
+Having little wind in the afternoon, we hoisted out the boats in pursuit of
+the sea-horses, which were in great numbers on the detached pieces of ice;
+but they soon returned without success; these animals being exceedingly
+shy, and before they could come within gun-shot always making their retreat
+into the water.
+
+At seven in the evening we hoisted in the boats, and the wind freshening
+from the southward, we stood on to the N.E., with a view of exploring the
+continent of America, between the latitudes of 68° and 69°, which,
+owing to the foggy weather last year, we had not been able to examine. In
+this attempt we were again in part disappointed. For on the 7th, at six in
+the morning, we were stopped by a large field of ice, stretching from N.W.
+to S.E.; but soon after, the horizon becoming clear, we had sight of the
+coast of America, at about ten leagues distance, extending from N.E. by E.
+to E., and lying, by observation, between the 68° and 68° 20' of latitude.
+As the weather was clear, and the ice not high, we were enabled to see over
+a great extent of it. The whole presented a solid and compact surface, not
+in the smallest degree thawed; and appeared to us likewise to adhere to the
+land.
+
+The weather soon after changing to hazy, we saw no more of the land; and
+there not remaining a possibility of approaching nearer to it, we stood to
+the N.N.W., keeping the ice close on board, and got round its western
+extremity by noon, when we found it trending nearly N. Our latitude at this
+time was, by account, 68° 22', and longitude 192° 34'. We continued our
+course to the N.N.E., along the edge of the ice, during the remaining part
+of the day, passing through many loose pieces that had been broken, off
+from the main body, and against which, notwithstanding all our caution, the
+ships were driven with great violence. At eight o'clock in the evening, we
+passed some drift-wood; and at midnight the wind shifted to the N.W., the
+thermometer fell from 38° to 31', and we had continued showers of snow and
+sleet.
+
+On the 8th at five in the morning, the wind coming still more to the
+northward, we could no longer keep on the same tack, on account of the ice,
+but were obliged to stand to the westward. At this time our soundings had
+decreased to nineteen fathoms, from which, on comparing it with our
+observations on the depth of water last year, we concluded that we were not
+at a greater distance from the American shore than six or seven leagues;
+but our view was confined within a much shorter compass, by a violent fall
+of snow. At noon, the latitude, by account, was 69° 21', longitude 192°
+42'. At two in the afternoon the weather cleared up, and we found ourselves
+close to an expanse of what appeared from the deck solid ice; but, from the
+mast-head, it was discovered to be composed of huge compact bodies, close
+and united toward the outer edge, but in the interior parts several
+pieces were seen floating in vacant spaces of the water. It extended from
+N.E. by the N. to W.S.W. We bore away by the edge of it to the southward,
+that we might get into clearer water; for the strong northerly winds had
+drifted down such quantities of loose pieces, that we had been for some
+time surrounded by them, and could not avoid striking against several,
+notwithstanding we reefed the topsails, and stood under an easy sail.
+
+On the 9th we had a fresh gale from the N.N.W., with heavy showers of snow
+and sleet. The thermometer was in the night time 28°, and at noon 30°. We
+continued to steer W.S.W., as before, keeping as near the large body of ice
+as we could, and had the misfortune to rub off some of the sheathing from
+the bows against the drift pieces, and to damage the cutwater. Indeed, the
+shocks we could not avoid receiving, were frequently so severe, as to be
+attended with considerable danger. At noon, the latitude, by account, was
+69° 12',. and longitude 188° 5'. The variation in the afternoon was found
+to be 29° 30' E.
+
+As we had now sailed near forty leagues to the westward, along the edge of
+the ice, without seeing any opening, or a clear sea to the northward beyond
+it, and had therefore no prospect of advancing farther N. for the present,
+Captain Clerke resolved to bear away to the S. by E. (the only quarter that
+was clear), and to wait till the season was more advanced, before he made
+any farther efforts to penetrate through the ice. The intermediate time he
+proposed to spend in examining the bay of Saint Laurence, and the coast to
+the southward of it; as a harbour so near, in case of future damage from
+the ice, would be very desirable. We also wished to pay another visit to
+our Tschutski friends; and particularly since the accounts we had heard of
+them from the commander of Kamtschatka.
+
+We therefore stood on to the southward, till the noon of the 10th, at which
+time we passed great quantities of drift-ice, and the wind fell to a
+perfect calm. The latitude, by observation, was 68° 1', longitude 188° 30'.
+We passed several whales in the forenoon, and in the afternoon hoisted out
+the boats, and sent them in pursuit of the sea-horses, which were in great
+numbers on the pieces of ice that surrounded us. Our people were more
+successful than they had been before, returning with three large ones and a
+young one; besides killing and wounding several others. The gentlemen who
+went on this party were witnesses of several remarkable instances of
+parental affection in those animals. On the approach of our boats toward
+the ice, they all took their cubs under their fins, and endeavoured to
+escape with them into the sea. Several, whose young were killed or wounded,
+and left floating on the surface, rose again, and carried them down,
+sometimes just as our people were going to take them up into the boat; and
+might be traced bearing them to a great distance through the water, which
+was coloured with their blood; we afterward observed them bringing them at
+times above the surface, as if for air, and again diving under it with a
+dreadful bellowing. The female, in particular, whose young had been
+destroyed, and taken into the boat, became so enraged, that she attacked
+the cutter, and struck her two tusks through the bottom of it.
+
+At eight in the evening, a breeze sprang up to the eastward, with which we
+still continued our course to the southward, and at twelve fell in with
+numerous large bodies of ice. We endeavoured to push through them with an
+easy sail, for fear of damaging the ship; and having got a little farther
+to the southward, nothing was to be seen but one compact field of ice,
+stretching to the S.W., S.E., and N.E., as far as the eye could reach. This
+unexpected and formidable obstacle put an end to Captain Clerke's plan of
+visiting the Tschutski; for no space remained open, but back again to the
+northward. Accordingly, at three in the morning of the 11th, we tacked, and
+stood to that quarter. At noon, the latitude, by observation, was 67° 49',
+and longitude 188° 47'.
+
+On the 12th, we had light winds, with thick hazy weather; and on trying the
+current, we found it set to the N.W., at the rate of half a knot an hour.
+We continued to steer northward, with a moderate southerly breeze and fair
+weather till the 13th, at ten in the forenoon, when we again found
+ourselves close in with a solid field of ice, to which we could see no
+limits from the mast-head. This at once dashed all our hopes of penetrating
+farther, which had been considerably raised, by having now advanced near
+ten leagues through a space, which on the 9th we had found occupied by
+impenetrable ice. Our latitude at this time was 69° 37'; our position
+nearly in the mid-channel between tween the two continents; and the field
+of ice extending from E.N.E. to W.S.W.
+
+As there did not remain the smallest prospect of getting farther north in
+the part of the sea where we now were, Captain Clerke resolved to make one
+more and final attempt on the American coast, for Baffin's Bay, since we
+had been able to advance the farthest on this side last year. Accordingly
+we kept working the remaining part of the day to the windward, with a fresh
+easterly breeze. We saw several fulmars and arctic gulls, and passed two
+trees, both appearing to have lain in the water a long time. The larger was
+about ten feet in length, and three in circumference, without either bark
+or branches, but with the roots remaining attached.
+
+On the 14th, we stood on to the eastward, with thick and foggy weather, our
+course being nearly parallel to that we steered the 8th and 9th, but six
+leagues more to the northward. On the 15th, the wind freshened from the
+westward, and having in a great measure dispersed the fog, we immediately
+stood to the northward, that we might take a nearer view of the ice; and in
+an hour were close in with it, extending from N.N.W. to N.E. We found it to
+be compact and solid; the outer parts were ragged, and of different
+heights; the interior surface was even, and we judged from eight to ten
+feet above the level of the sea. The weather becoming moderate for the
+remaining part of the day, we directed our course according to the trending
+of the ice, which in many parts formed deep bays.
+
+In the morning of the 16th the wind freshened, and was attended with thick
+and frequent showers of snow. At eight in the forenoon, it blew a strong
+gale from the W.S.W., and brought us under double-reefed top-sails; when
+the weather clearing a little, we found ourselves embayed, the ice having
+taken a sudden turn to the S.E., and in one compact body surrounding us on
+all sides, except on the south quarter. We therefore hauled our wind to the
+southward, being at this time in latitude 70° 8' N., and in twenty-six
+fathoms water; and, as we supposed, about twenty-five leagues from the
+coast of America. The gale increasing, at four in the afternoon we close
+reefed the fore and main top-sails, furled the mizen-top-sail, and got the
+top-gallant-yards down upon deck. At eight, finding the depth of water had
+decreased to twenty-two fathoms, which we considered as a proof of
+our near approach to the American coast, we tacked and stood to the north.
+We had blowing weather, accompanied with snow, through the night; but next
+morning it became clear and moderate, and at eight in the forenoon we got
+the top-gallant yards across, and made sail with the wind still at W.S.W.
+At noon we were in latitude, by observation, 69° 55', longitude 194° 30'.
+Toward evening the wind slackened, and at midnight it was a calm.
+
+On the 18th, at five in the morning, a light breeze sprung up from the
+E.N.E., with which we continued our course to the north, in order to regain
+the ice as soon as possible. We passed some small logs of drift-wood, and
+saw abundance of sea-parrots, and the small ice-birds, and likewise a
+number of whales. At noon the latitude, by observation, was 70° 26', and
+longitude 194° 54'; the depth of water twenty-three fathoms; the ice
+stretched from N. to E.N.E., and was distant about three miles. At one in
+the afternoon, finding that we were close in with a firm united field of
+it, extending from W.N.W. to E., we tacked, and the wind coming round to
+the westward, stood on to the eastward, along its edge, till eleven at
+night. At that time a very thick fog coming on, and the water shoaling to
+nineteen fathoms, we hauled our wind to the south. The variation observed
+this day was 31° 20' E. It is remarkable, that though we saw no sea-horses
+on the body of the ice, yet they were in herds, and in greater numbers on
+the detached fragments, than we had ever observed before. About nine in the
+evening, a white bear was seen swimming close by the Discovery; it
+afterward made to the ice, on which were also two others.
+
+On the 19th, at one in the morning, the weather clearing up, we again
+steered to the N.E. till two, when we were a second time so completely
+embayed, that there was no opening left but to the south; to which quarter
+we accordingly directed our course, returning through a remarkably smooth
+water, and with very favourable weather, by the same way we had come in. We
+were never able to penetrate farther north than at this time, when our
+latitude was 70° 33'; and this was five leagues short of the point to which
+we advanced last season. We held on to the S.S.W., with light winds from
+the N.W., by the edge of the main ice, which lay on our left hand, and
+stretched between us and the continent of America. Our latitude, by
+observation at noon, was 70° 11', our longitude 196° 15', and the depth of
+water sixteen fathoms. From this circumstance, we judged that the Icy Cape
+was now only at seven or eight leagues distance; but though the weather was
+in general clear, it was at the same time hazy in the horizon; so that we
+could not expect to see it.[24]
+
+In the afternoon we saw two white bears in the water, to which we
+immediately gave chase in the jolly-boat, and had the good fortune to kill
+them both. The larger, which probably was the dam of the younger, being
+shot first, the other would not quit it, though it might easily have
+escaped on the ice whilst the men were reloading, but remained swimming
+about, till after being fired upon several times, it was shot dead.
+
+The dimensions of the larger were as follow:
+
+
+                                                  Ft. In.
+
+From the snout to the end of the tail              7   2
+From the snout to the shoulder-bone                2   3
+Height of the shoulder                             4   3
+Circumference near the fore-legs                   4  10
+Breadth of the fore-paw                               10
+
+                                                  lb.
+Weight of the four quarters                      436
+Weight of the four quarters of the smallest      256
+
+
+On comparing the dimensions of this with Lord Mulgrave's white bear, they
+were found almost exactly the same, except in the circumference, where
+our's fell exceedingly short.
+
+These animals afforded us a few excellent meals of fresh meat. The flesh
+had, indeed, a strong filthy taste, but was, in every respect infinitely
+superior to that of the sea-horse; which nevertheless our people were again
+persuaded, without much difficulty, to prefer to their salted provisions.
+
+At six in the morning of the 20th, a thick fog coming on, we lost sight of
+the ice for two hours; but the weather clearing, we saw the main body again
+to the S.S.E., when we hauled our wind, which was easterly, toward it, in
+the expectation of making the American coast to the S.E., and which we
+effected at half past ten. At noon, the latitude, by account, was 69° 33',
+and longitude 194° 53', and the depth of water nineteen fathoms. The land
+extended from S. by E. to S.S.W. 1/2 W., distant eight or ten leagues,
+being the same we had seen last year; but it was now much more covered with
+snow than at that time, and to all appearance the ice adhered to the shore.
+We continued in the afternoon sailing through a sea of loose ice, and
+standing toward the land, as near as the wind, which was E.S.E., would
+admit. At eight the wind lessening, there came on a thick fog, and on
+perceiving a rippling in the water, we tried the current, which we found to
+set to the E.N.E., at the rate of a mile an hour, and therefore determined
+to steer during the night before the wind, in order to stem it, and to
+oppose the large fragments of loose ice that were setting us on toward the
+land. The depth of the water at midnight was twenty fathoms.
+
+At eight in the morning of the 21st, the wind freshening, and the fog
+clearing away, we saw the American coast to the S.E., at the distance of
+eight or ten leagues, and hauled in for it; but were stopped again by the
+ice, and obliged to bear away to the westward, along the edge of it. At
+noon, the latitude, by account, was 69° 34', and longitude 193°, and the
+depth of water twenty-four fathoms.
+
+Thus a connected solid field of ice, rendering every effort we could make
+to a nearer approach to the land fruitless, and joining as we judged to it,
+we took a last farewell of a N.E passage to Old England. I shall beg leave
+to give, in Captain Clerke's own words, the reasons of this his final
+determination, as well as of his future plans; and this the rather, as it
+is the last transaction his health permitted him to write down.
+
+"It is now impossible to proceed the least farther to the northward upon
+this coast (America); and it is equally as improbable that this amazing
+mass of ice should be dissolved by the few remaining summer-weeks which
+will terminate this season; but it will continue, it is to be believed, as
+it now is, an insurmountable barrier to every attempt we can possibly make.
+I therefore think it the best step that can be taken, for the good of the
+service, to trace the sea over to the Asiatic coast, and to try if I can
+find any opening, that will admit me farther north; if not, to see what
+more is to be done upon that coast; where I hope, yet cannot much flatter
+myself, to meet with better success; for the sea is now so choaked with
+ice, that a passage, I fear, is totally out of the question."
+
+
+[21] Krusenstern substantially admits the correctness of Captain King's
+    statement respecting the Russian hospital, &c. by saying, expressively
+    enough, things are not quite so bad at present. It is evident,
+    however, from his remarks, that the change to the better is almost to
+    the full amount of being imperceptible, notwithstanding the zeal of
+    some individuals whose exertions he is anxious to eulogize, and his
+    own disposition to believe that their well-meant exertions have not
+    been entirely fruitless. The change, it would seem, consists in the
+    greater quantities of medicine sent to Kamtschatka, and not in the
+    greater practicability of judiciously applying them. This, most
+    persons of discernment will shrewdly suspect, is several degrees worse
+    than problematically a change to the better. At least one could
+    scarcely help desiring rather to accept peaceably the warrant of a
+    natural death, than to risk the enhancement of a conflict on the
+    doubtful aid of a bungling doctor, whose chief recommendation,
+    perhaps, if he would but allow himself to be favoured by it, consisted
+    in his avowed ignorance securing his neutrality. In such a case,
+    indeed, and it seems on the whole to be almost the very one which K.
+    describes, it is obvious enough that the medicines can at least do no
+    more harm than the bottles and boxes that contain them; but then one
+    cannot easily perceive wherein consists the merit or utility of having
+    provided them, unless, as in the instance of fire-arms hung over the
+    chimney never to be loaded or fired, or in that of idols of wood and
+    stone which adorn the temples of pagans, but which can neither receive
+    nor bestow favours, we shall suppose that the imagination of some
+    potential advantages is quite equivalent to the reality of their
+    operation. Krusenstern has some sensible remarks on the proper method
+    of supplying Kamtschatka with well-qualified physicians, but they are
+    of course foreign to this place, and cannot, therefore, properly be
+    introduced.--E.
+
+[22] This bird, which is somewhat larger than the common gull, pursues the
+    latter kind whenever it meets them; the gull, after flying for some
+    time, with loud screams, and evident marks of great terror, drops its
+    dung, which its pursuer immediately darts at, and catches before it
+    falls into the sea.
+
+[23] The distance betwixt the two remarkable points now specified, it will
+    be proper for the reader to remember, is estimated at 13 leagues, or
+    about 40 miles, being the nearest approach of the two continents of
+    Asia and America yet ascertained.--E.
+
+[24] Captain Cook then must still be allowed to have succeeded in getting
+    farther towards the north in this ocean, than any other navigator.
+    For, from the date of this voyage up to the present period, so far at
+    least as has been published, no one has surpassed the limit of his
+    examination. But it is obvious, from the very circumstance of the
+    difference betwixt the two attempts recorded in this voyage, that a
+    considerable variation in the state and intensity of the obstructing
+    cause may occur in various years. There is a probability then, that a
+    still greater difference might be experienced, affording a practicable
+    opportunity of getting still more towards the north than in either of
+    them. How far this probability, not a great one, as Captain King
+    afterwards suggests, ought to be considered, or how far the
+    expectation of any benefit arising from it, ought to influence in
+    directing another similar undertaking, it is not the province of this
+    work to speculate. But one cannot help remarking, that the Russian
+    government at least, might not be injudiciously employed in ordering
+    one or more vessels, properly fitted up, to be kept in readiness at
+    some port in this distant region of the empire, to take advantage of
+    any season more suitable than another, for prosecuting the enterprise.
+    Nay, is it not far from being romantic to imagine, that the two
+    friendly powers of Russia and Great Britain might actually find a
+    reward, in the promotion of their mutual interest, by a joint and
+    well-concerted plan for opening up a communication by any means
+    betwixt the North Pacific and North Atlantic Oceans? Both of them, one
+    should suppose, must be sensible, that the zeal of their intermediate
+    neighbour (if the expression may be used) the Americans, to discover
+    the practicability of a connexion, and of course to establish one
+    betwixt the opposite sides of the new continent, is not likely to
+    prove altogether fruitless, though perhaps there are still more
+    formidable difficulties in the way of its exercise. A little time will
+    probably demonstrate, that these politic republicans have not in vain
+    emulated the enterprising spirit, or commercial sagacity of the parent
+    state; and that neither of the other governments just now mentioned,
+    has fully profited of all the advantages which its possessions have
+    continued to hold out.--E.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION IV.
+
+
+Fruitless Attempts to penetrate through the Ice to the North-West.--
+Dangerous Situation of the Discovery.--Sea-horses killed.--Fresh
+Obstructions from the Ice.--Report of Damages received by the Discovery.--
+Captain Clerke's Determination to proceed to the Southward.--Joy of the
+Ships' Crews on that Occasion.--Pass Serdze Kamen.--Return through
+Beering's Strait.--Enquiry into the Extent of the North-East Coast of
+Asia.--Reasons for rejecting Muller's Map of the Promontory of the
+Tschutski.--Reasons for believing the Coast does not reach a higher
+Latitude than 70-1/2° North.--General Observations on the Impracticability
+of a North-East or North-West Passage from the Atlantic into the Pacific
+Ocean.--Comparative View of the Progress made in the Years 1778 and
+1779.--Remarks on the Sea and Sea-coasts, North of Beering's
+Strait.--History of the Voyage resumed.--Pass the Island of St
+Laurence.--The Island of Mednoi.--Death of Captain Clerke.--Short Account
+of his Services.
+
+
+Captain Clerke having determined, for the reasons assigned, to give up all
+farther attempts on the coast of America, and to make his last efforts in
+search of a passage on the coast of the opposite continent, we continued
+during the afternoon of the 21st of July, to steer to the W.N.W., through
+much loose ice. At ten at night, discovering the main body of it through
+the fog, right ahead, and almost close to us, and being unwilling to take a
+southerly course so long as we could possibly avoid it, we hauled our wind,
+which was easterly, and stood to the northward; but in an hour after, the
+weather clearing up, and finding ourselves surrounded by a compact field of
+ice on every side, except to the S.S.W., we tacked and stood on in that
+direction, in order to get clear of it.
+
+At noon of the 22d, our latitude, by observation, was 69° 30', and
+longitude 187° 30'. In the afternoon we again came up with the ice, which
+extended to the N.W. and S.W., and obliged us to continue our course to the
+southward, in order to weather it.
+
+It may be remarked, that, since the 8th of this month, we had twice
+traversed this sea, in lines nearly parallel with the run we had just now
+made; that in the first of those traverses we were not able to penetrate so
+far north, by eight or ten leagues, as in the second; and that in the last
+we had again found an united body of ice, generally about five leagues to
+the southward of its position in the preceding run. As this proves that the
+large compact fields of ice, which we saw, were moveable, or diminishing,
+at the same time, it does not leave any well-founded expectations of
+advancing much farther in the most favourable seasons.
+
+At seven in the evening, the weather being hazy, and no ice in sight, we
+bore away to the westward; but at half past eight the fog dispersing, we
+found ourselves in the midst of loose ice, and close in with the main body;
+we therefore stood upon a wind, which was still easterly, and kept beating
+to windward during the night, in hopes of weathering the loose pieces,
+which the freshness of the wind kept driving down upon us in such
+quantities, that we were in manifest danger of being blocked up by them.
+
+In the morning of the 23d, the clear water, in which we continued to stand
+to and fro, did not exceed a mile and a half, and was every instant
+lessening. At length, after using our utmost endeavours to clear the loose
+ice, we were driven to the necessity of forcing the passage to the
+southward, which at half past seven we accomplished, but not without
+subjecting the ship to some very severe shocks. The Discovery was less
+successful. For at eleven, when they had nigh got clear out, she became so
+entangled by several large pieces, that her way was stopped, and
+immediately dropping bodily to leeward, she fell broadside foremost, on the
+edge of a considerable body of ice; and having at the same time an open sea
+to windward, the surf caused her to strike violently upon it. This mass at
+length either so far broke, or moved, as to set them at liberty to make
+another trial to escape; but unfortunately before the ship gathered way
+enough to be under command, she again fell to leeward on another fragment;
+and the swell making it unsafe to lie to windward, and finding no chance of
+getting clear, they pushed into a small opening, furled their sails, and
+made fast with ice-hooks.
+
+In this dangerous situation we saw them at noon, about three miles from us,
+bearing N.W., a fresh gale from the S.E. driving more ice to the N.W., and
+increasing the body that lay between us. Our latitude, by account, was 69°
+8', the longitude 187° and the depth of water twenty-eight fathoms. To add
+to the gloomy apprehensions which began to force themselves on us, at half
+past four in the afternoon, the weather becoming thick and hazy, we lost
+sight of the Discovery; but that we might be in a situation to afford her
+every assistance in our power, we kept standing on close by the edge of the
+ice. At six, the wind happily coming round to the north, gave us some hopes
+that the ice might drift away and release her; and in that case, as it was
+uncertain in what condition she might come out, We kept firing a gun every
+half hour, in order to prevent a separation. Our apprehensions for her
+safety did not cease till nine, when we heard her guns in answer to ours;
+and soon after being hailed by her, were informed that upon the change of
+wind the ice began to separate; and that setting all their sails, they
+forced a passage through it. We learned farther, that whilst they were
+encompassed by it, they found the ship drift with the main body to the
+N.E., at the rate of half a mile an hour. We were sorry to find that the
+Discovery had rubbed off a great deal of the sheathing from her bows, and
+was become very leaky, from the strokes she had received when she fell upon
+the edge of the ice.
+
+On the 24th we had fresh breezes from the S.W., with hazy weather, and kept
+running to the S.E. till eleven in the forenoon, when a large body of loose
+ice, extending from N.N.E. round by the E., to S.S.E., and to which (though
+the weather was tolerably clear) we could see no end, again obstructed our
+course. We therefore kept working to windward, and at noon our latitude, by
+observation, was 68° 53', longitude 188°; the variation of the compass 22°
+30' E. At four in the afternoon it became calm, and we hoisted out the
+boats in pursuit of the sea-horses, which were in prodigious herds on every
+side of us. We killed ten of them, which were as many as we could make use
+of for eating, or for converting into lamp-oil. We kept on with the wind
+from the S.W., along the edge of the ice, which extended in a direction
+almost due E. and W., till four in the morning of the 25th, when observing
+a clear sea beyond it to the S.E., we made sail that way, with a view of
+forcing through it. By six we had cleared it, and continued the remainder
+of the day running to the S.E., without any ice in sight. At noon, our
+latitude, by observation, was 68° 38', longitude 189° 9', and the depth of
+water thirty fathoms. At midnight we tacked and stood to the westward, with
+a fresh gale from the S.; and at ten in the forenoon, of the 26th, the ice
+again shewed itself, extending from N.W. to S. It appeared loose, and
+drifting by the force of the wind to the northward. At noon, our latitude,
+by observation, was 68° N., longitude 188° 10' E.; and we had soundings
+with twenty-eight fathoms. For the remaining part of the day, and till noon
+of the 27th, we kept standing backward and forward, in order to clear
+ourselves of different bodies of ice. At noon we were in latitude, by
+observation, 67° 47', longitude 188°. At two in the afternoon, we saw the
+continent to the S. by E.; and at four, having run since noon with a S.S.E.
+wind to the S.W., we were surrounded by loose masses of ice, with the firm
+body of it in sight, stretching in a N. by W. and a S. by E. direction, as
+far as the eye could reach; beyond which we saw the coast of Asia, bearing
+S. and S. by E.
+
+As it was now necessary to come to some determination with respect to the
+course we were next to steer, Captain Clerke sent a boat, with the
+carpenters, on board the Discovery, to enquire into the particulars of the
+damage she had sustained. They returned in the evening, with the report of
+Captain Gore, and of the carpenters of both ships, that the damages they
+had received were of a kind that would require three weeks to repair; and
+that it would be necessary, for that purpose, to go into some port.
+
+Thus, finding a farther advance to the northward, as well as a nearer
+approach to either continent, obstructed by a sea blocked up with ice, we
+judged it both injurious to the service, by endangering the safety of the
+ships, as well as fruitless, with respect to the design of our voyage, to
+make any farther attempts toward a passage. This, therefore, added to the
+representations of Captain Gore, determined Captain Clerke not to lose more
+time in what he concluded to be an unattainable object, but to sail for
+Awatska Bay, to repair our damages there; and before the winter should set
+in, and render all other efforts toward discovery impracticable, to explore
+the coast of Japan.
+
+I will not endeavour to conceal the joy that brightened the countenance of
+every individual, as soon as Captain Clerke's resolutions were made known.
+We were all heartily sick of a navigation full of danger, and in which the
+utmost perseverance had not been repaid with the smallest probability of
+success. We therefore turned our faces toward home, after an absence of
+three years, with a delight and satisfaction, which, notwithstanding the
+tedious voyage we had still to make, and the immense distance we had to
+run, were as freely entertained, and perhaps as fully enjoyed, as if we had
+been already in sight of the Land's-end.
+
+On the 28th, we kept working to windward with a fresh breeze from the S.E.,
+having the coast of Asia still in sight. At four in the morning, the cape,
+which, on the authority of Muller, we have called Serdze Kamen, bore
+S.S.W., distant six or seven leagues. We saw in different places, upon the
+tops of the hills, which rise inland on both sides of the cape,
+protuberances of a considerable height, which had the appearance of huge
+rocks, or pillars of stone.
+
+On the 29th, the wind still continuing contrary, we made but slow progress
+to the southward. At midnight we had thick foggy weather, accompanied with
+a breeze from the N.N.W., with which we directed our course to the S.S.E.
+through the strait, and had no land in sight till seven in the evening of
+the 30th, when the fog clearing away, we saw Cape Prince of Wales bearing
+S. by E., distant about six leagues; and the island St Diomede, S.W. by W.
+We now altered our course to the W., and at eight made the east cape, which
+at midnight bore W. by N., distant four leagues. In the night we steered to
+the S.S.W., with a fresh west-north-westerly breeze; and at four in the
+morning of the 31st, the east cape bore N.N.E.; and the N.E. part of the
+bay of St Laurence (where we anchored the last year) W. by S., its distance
+being four leagues. As we could not have worked up to windward without a
+greater waste of time than the object appeared to deserve, we ran across
+the bay, regretting much, as we passed along, the loss of this opportunity
+of paying a second visit to the Tschutski. At noon, our latitude, by
+observation, was 65° 6', and longitude 189°. The south point of the bay of
+St Laurence bore N. by W. 1/4 W., and was distant seven or eight leagues.
+In the afternoon, the variation was found to be 22° 50' E.
+
+Having now passed Beering's Strait, and taken our final leave of the N.E.
+coast of Asia, it may not be improper, on this occasion, to state the
+grounds on which we have ventured to adopt two general conclusions
+respecting its extent, in opposition to the opinions of Mr Muller. The
+first, that the promontory named East Cape, is actually the easternmost
+point of that quarter of the globe; or, in other words, that no part of the
+continent extends in longitude beyond 190° 22' E.; the second, that the
+latitude of the north-easternmost extremity falls to the southward of 70°
+N. With respect to the former, if such land exist, it must necessarily be
+to the N. of latitude 69°, where the discoveries made in the present voyage
+terminate; and, therefore, the probable direction of the coast, beyond this
+point, is the question I shall endeavour, in the first place, to
+investigate.
+
+As the Russian is the only nation that has hitherto navigated these seas,
+all our information respecting the situation of the coast to the northward
+of Cape North, must necessarily be derived from the charts and journals of
+the persons who have been employed at various times in ascertaining the
+limits of that empire; and these are for the most part so imperfect, so
+confused, and contradictory, that it is not easy to form any distinct idea
+of their pretended, much less to collect the amount of their real
+discoveries. It is on this account, that the extent and form of the
+peninsula, inhabited by the Tschutski, still remains a point on which the
+Russian geographers are much divided. Mr Muller, in his map, published in
+the year 1754, supposes this country to extend toward the N.E., to the 75°
+of latitude, and in longitude 190° E. of Greenwich, and to terminate in a
+round cape, which he calls Tschukotskoi Noss. To the southward of this cape
+he conceives the coast to form a bay to the westward, bounded in latitude
+67° 18', by Serdze Kamen, the northernmost point seen by Beering in his
+expedition in the year 1728. The map published by the academy of St
+Petersburgh, in the year 1776, gives the whole peninsula entirely a new
+form, placing its north-easternmost extremity in the latitude of 73°,
+longitude 178° 30'. The easternmost point in latitude 65° 30', longitude
+189° 30'. All the other maps we saw, both printed and in manuscript, vary
+between these two, apparently more according to the fancy of the compiler,
+than on any grounds of more accurate information. The only point in which
+there is a general coincidence, without any considerable variation, is in
+the position of the east cape in latitude 66°. The form of the coast, both
+to the S. and N. of this cape, in the map of the academy, is exceedingly
+erroneous, and may be totally disregarded. In that of Mr Muller, the coast
+to the northward bears a considerable resemblance to our survey, as far as
+the latter extends, except that it does not trend sufficiently to the
+westward, receding only about 5° of longitude, between the latitude of 66°
+and 69°; whereas in reality it recedes near ten. Between the latitude of
+69° and 74°, he makes the coast bend round to the N. and N.E., and to form
+a considerable promontory. On what authority now remains to be examined.
+
+Mr Coxe, whose accurate researches into this subject give his opinion great
+weight, is persuaded that the extremity of the Noss in question was never
+passed but by Deshneff and his party, who sailed from the river Kovyma in
+the year 1648, and are supposed to have got round it into the Anadir. As
+the account of this expedition, the substance of which the reader will find
+in Mr Coxe's Account of Russian Discoveries, contains no geographical
+delineation of the coast along which they sailed, its position must be
+conjectured from incidental circumstances; and from these it appears very
+manifest, that the Tschukotskoi Noss of Deshneff is no other than the
+promontory called by Captain Cook the East Cape. Speaking of the Noss, he
+says, "One might sail from the isthmus to the river Anadir, with a fair
+wind, in three days and three nights." This exactly coincides with the
+situation of the East Cape, which is about one hundred and twenty leagues
+from the mouth of the Anadir; and as there is no other isthmus to the
+northward between that and the latitude of 69°, it is obvious that, by this
+description, he must intend either the cape in question, or some other to
+the southward of it. In another place he says, "Over against the isthmus
+there are two islands in the sea, upon which were seen people of the
+Tschutski nation, through whose lips were run pieces of the teeth of the
+sea-horse." This again perfectly agrees with the two islands situated to
+the S.E. of the East Cape. We saw indeed no inhabitants on them, but it is
+not at all improbable that a party of the Americans from the opposite
+continent, whom this description accurately suits, might, at that time,
+have been accidentally there; and whom it was natural enough for him to
+mistake for a tribe of the Tschutski.[25]
+
+These two circumstances are of so striking and unequivocal a nature, that
+they appear to me conclusive on the point of the Tschukotskoi Noss,
+notwithstanding there are others of a more doubtful kind, which we have
+from the same authority, and which now remain to be considered. "To go,"
+says Deshneff in another account, "from the Kovyma to the Anadir, a great
+promontory must be doubled, which stretches very far into the sea;" and
+afterwards, "this promontory stretches between N. and N.E." It was probably
+from the expressions contained in these passages, that Mr Muller was
+induced to give the country of the Tschutski the form we find in his map;
+but had he been acquainted with the situation of the east cape, as
+ascertained by Captain Cook, and the remarkable coincidence between it and
+this promontory or isthmus, (for it must be observed, that Deshneff appears
+to be all along speaking of the same thing), in the circumstances already
+mentioned, I am confident he would not have thought those expressions,
+merely by themselves, of sufficient weight to warrant him in extending the
+north-eastern extremity of Asia, either so far to the north or to the
+eastward. For, after all, these expressions are not irreconcilable with the
+opinion we have adopted, if we suppose Deshneff to have taken these
+bearings from the small bight which lies to the westward of the cape.
+
+The deposition of the Cossack Popoff, taken at the Anadirskoi ostrog; in
+the year 1711, seems to have been the next authority on which Mr Muller has
+proceeded; and beside these two, I am not acquainted with any other. This
+Cossack, together with several others, was sent by land to demand tribute
+from the independent Tschutski tribes, who lived about the Noss. The first
+circumstance in the account of this journey that can lead to the situation
+of Tschukotskoi Noss, is its distance from Anadirsk; and this is stated to
+be ten weeks' journey with loaded rein-deer; on which account, it is added,
+their day's journey was but very small. It is impossible to conclude much
+from so vague an account; but, as the distance between the east cape and
+the ostrog is upward of two hundred leagues in a straight line, and
+therefore may be supposed to allow twelve or fifteen miles a day, its
+situation cannot be reckoned incompatible with Popoff's calculation. The
+next circumstance mentioned in this deposition is, that their route lay by
+the foot of a rock called Matkol, situated at the bottom of a great gulf.
+This gulf Muller supposes to be the bay he had laid down between latitude
+66° and 72°; and accordingly places the rock Matkol in the centre of it;
+but it appears equally probable, even if we had not so many reasons to
+doubt the existence of that bay, that it might be some part of the gulf of
+Anadir, which they would undoubtedly touch upon in their road from the
+ostrog to the east cape.
+
+But what seems to put this matter beyond all dispute, and to prove that the
+cape visited by Popoff cannot be to the northward of 69° latitude, is, that
+part of his deposition, which I have already quoted, relative to the island
+lying off the Noss, from whence the opposite continent might be seen. For
+as the two continents in latitude 69°, have diverged so far as to be more
+than three hundred miles distant, it is highly improbable that the Asiatic
+coast should again trend in such a manner to the eastward, as to come
+nearly within sight of the coast of America.
+
+If these arguments should be deemed conclusive against the existence of the
+peninsula of the Tschutski, as laid down by Muller, it will follow that the
+east cape is the Tschukotskoi Noss of the[26] more early Russian
+navigators; and, consequently, that the undescribed coast from the latitude
+of 69° to the mouth of the river Kovyma, must uniformly trend more or less
+to the westward. As an additional proof of this, it may be remarked, that
+the Tschukotskoi Noss is always represented as dividing the sea of Kovyma
+from that of Anadir, which could not be the case, if any considerable cape
+had projected to the N.E. in the higher latitudes. Thus, in the depositions
+taken at Anadirsk, it is related, "that opposite the Noss, on both sides,
+as well in the sea of Kovyma, as in that of Anadir, an island is said to be
+seen at a great distance, which the Tschutski call a large country; and say
+that people dwell there who have large teeth put in their mouths that
+project through their cheeks." Then follows a description of these people
+and their country, exactly corresponding with our accounts of the opposite
+continent.
+
+The last question that arises is, to what degree of northern latitude this
+coast extends, before it trends more directly to the westward. If the
+situation of the mouth of the Kovyma, both with respect to its latitude and
+longitude, were accurately determined, it would perhaps not be very
+difficult to form a probable conjecture upon this point. Captain Cook was
+always strongly of opinion that the northern coast of Asia, from the
+Indigirka eastward, has hitherto been generally laid down more than two
+degrees to the northward of its true position; and he has, therefore, on
+the authority of a map that was in his possession, and on the information
+he received at Oonalashka, placed the mouth of the river Kovyma, in his
+chart of the N.W. coast of America, and the N.E. coast of Asia, in the
+latitude of 68°. Should he be right in this conjecture, it is probable, for
+the reasons that have been already stated, that the Asiatic coast does not
+any where exceed 70°, before it trends to the westward; and consequently,
+that we were within 1° of its north-eastern extremity. For, if the
+continent be supposed to stretch any where to the northward of Shelatskoi
+Noss, it is scarcely possible that so extraordinary a circumstance should
+not have been mentioned by the Russian navigators; and we have already
+shewn that they make mention of no remarkable promontory between the Kovyma
+and the Anadir, except the east cape. Another circumstance, related by
+Deshneff, may, perhaps, be thought a further confirmation of this opinion,
+namely, that he met with no impediment from ice in navigating round the
+N.E. extremity of Asia; though, he adds, that this sea is not always so
+free from it, as indeed is manifest from the failure of his first
+expedition, and since that, from the unsuccessful attempts of Shalauroff,
+and the obstacles we met with, in two different years, in our present
+voyage.[27]
+
+The continent left undetermined in our chart between Cape North, and the
+mouth of the Kovyma is, in longitudinal extent, one hundred and twenty-five
+leagues. One-third, or about forty leagues, of this distance, from the
+Kovyma eastward, was explored in the year 1723, by a _sinbo-jarskoi_ of
+Jakutz, whose name was Feodor Amossoff, by whom Mr Muller was informed,
+that its direction was to the eastward. It is said to have been since
+accurately surveyed by Shalauroff, whose chart makes it trend to the N.E.
+by E., as far as the Shelatskoi Noss, which he places about forty-three
+leagues to the eastward of the Kovyma. The space between this Noss and Cape
+North, about eighty-two leagues, is therefore the only part of the Russian
+empire that now remains unascertained.
+
+But if the river Kovyma be erroneously situated with respect to its
+longitude, as well as in its latitude, a supposition for which probable
+grounds are not wanting, the extent of the unexplored coast will become
+proportionably diminished. The reasons which incline me to believe that the
+mouth of this river is placed in the Russian charts much too far to the
+westward, are as follow: First, because the accounts that are given of the
+navigation of the Frozen Sea from that river, round the N.E. point of Asia
+to the gulf of Anadir, do not accord with the supposed distance between
+those places. Secondly, because the distance over land from the Kovyma to
+the Anadir is represented by the early Russian travellers as a journey
+easily performed, and of no very extraordinary length. Thirdly, because the
+coast from the Shelatskoi Noss of Shalauroff[28] seems to trend directly
+S.E. to the East Cape. If this be so, it will follow, that as we were
+probably not more than 1° to the southward of Shelatskoi Noss, only sixty
+miles of the Asiatic coast remain unascertained.[29]
+
+Had Captain Cook lived to this period of our voyage, and experienced, in a
+second attempt, the impracticability of a N.E. or N.W. passage from the
+Pacific to the Atlantic Ocean, he would doubtless have laid before the
+public, in one connected view, an account of the obstacles which defeated
+this, the primary object of our expedition, together with his observations
+on a subject of such magnitude, and which had engaged the attention and
+divided the opinions of philosophers and navigators for upward of two
+hundred years. I am very sensible how unequal I am to the task of supplying
+this deficiency; but that the expectations of the reader may not be wholly
+disappointed, I must beg his candid acceptance of the following
+observations, as well as of those I have already ventured to offer him,
+relative to the extent of the N.E. coast of Asia.
+
+The evidence that has been so fully and judiciously stated in the
+introduction, amounts to the highest degree of probability that a N.W.
+passage from the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean, cannot exist to the
+southward of 65° of latitude. If then there exist a passage, it must be
+either through Baffin's Bay, or round by the north of Greenland, in the
+western hemisphere, or else through the Frozen Ocean, to the northward of
+Siberia, in the eastern; and on whichever side it lies, the navigator must
+necessarily pass through Beering's Strait. The impracticability of
+penetrating into the Atlantic on either side, through the strait, is
+therefore all that remains to be submitted to the consideration of the
+public.
+
+As far as our experience went, it appears, that the sea to the north of
+Beering's Strait is clearer of ice in August than in July, and perhaps in a
+part of September it may be still more free. But after the equinox the days
+shorten so fast, that no farther thaw can be expected; and we cannot
+rationally allow so great an effect to the warm weather in the first half
+of September, as to imagine it capable of dispersing the ice from the most
+northern parts of the American coast. But admitting this to be possible, it
+must at least be granted, that it would be madness to attempt to run from
+the Icy Cape to the known parts of Baffin's Bay, (a distance of four
+hundred and twenty leagues), in so short a time as that passage can be
+supposed to continue open.[30]
+
+Upon the Asiatic side, there appears still less probability of success,
+both from what came to our own knowledge, with respect to the state of the
+sea to the southward of Cape North, and also from what we learn from the
+experience of the[31] lieutenants under Beering's direction, and the
+journal of Shalauroff, in regard to that on the north of Siberia.
+
+The voyage of Deshneff, if its truth be admitted, proves undoubtedly the
+possibility of passing round the N.E. point of Asia; but when the reader
+reflects that near a century and a half has elapsed since the time of that
+navigator, during which, in an age of great curiosity and enterprize, no
+man has yet been able to follow him, he will not entertain very sanguine
+expectations of the public advantages that can be derived from it. But let
+us even suppose, that in some singularly favourable season a ship has found
+a clear passage round the coast of Siberia, and is safely arrived at the
+mouth of the Lena, still there remains the Cape of Taimura, stretching to
+the 78° of latitude, which the good fortune of no single voyager has
+hitherto doubled.
+
+It is, however, contended, that there are strong reasons for believing that
+the sea is more free from ice the nearer we approach to the Pole; and that
+all the ice we saw in the lower latitudes was formed in the great rivers of
+Siberia and America, the breaking up of which had filled the intermediate
+sea. But even if that supposition be true, it is equally so, that there can
+be no access to those open seas, unless this great mass of ice is so far
+dissolved in the summer as to admit of a ship's getting through it. If this
+be the fact, we have taken a wrong time of the year for attempting to find
+this passage, which should have been explored in April and May, before the
+rivers were broken up. But how many reasons may be given against such a
+supposition? Our experience at Saint Peter and Saint Paul enabled us to
+judge what might be expected farther north; and upon that ground we had
+reason to doubt whether the continents might not in winter be even joined
+by the ice; and this agreed with the stories we heard in Kamtschatka, that
+on the Siberian coast they go out from the shore in winter upon the ice to
+greater distances than the breadth of the sea is in some parts from one
+continent to the other.
+
+In the depositions referred to above, the following remarkable circumstance
+is related. Speaking of the land seen from the Tschukotskoi Noss, it is
+said, "that in summer time they sail in one day to the land in baidares, a
+sort of vessel constructed of whale-bone, and covered with seal-skins; and
+in winter time, going swift with rein-deer, the journey may be likewise
+made in one day." A sufficient proof that the two countries were usually
+joined together by the ice.
+
+The account given by Mr Muller of one of the expeditions undertaken to
+discover a supposed island in the Frozen Sea, is still more remarkable. "In
+the year 1714, a new expedition was prepared from Jakutzk, for the same
+place, under the command of Alexei Markoff, who was to sail from the mouth
+of the Jana; and if the _Schitiki_ were not fit for sea-voyages, he was to
+construct, at a proper place, vessels fit for prosecuting the discoveries
+without danger.
+
+"On his arrival at Ust-janskoe Simovie, the port at which he was to embark,
+he sent an account, dated February 2, 1715, to the Chancery of Jakutzk,
+mentioning that it was impossible to navigate the sea, as it was
+continually frozen both in summer and winter; and that consequently the
+intended expedition was no otherwise to be carried on but with sledges
+drawn by dogs. In this manner he accordingly set out, with nine persons, on
+the 10th of March the same year, and returned on the 3d of April, to Ust-
+janskoe Simovie. The account of his journey is as follows: That he went
+seven days as fast as his dogs could draw him, (which, in good ways and
+weather, is eighty or a hundred wersts in a day) directly towards the
+north, upon the ice, without discovering any island; that it had not been
+possible for him to proceed any farther, the ice rising there in the sea
+like mountains; that he had climbed to the top of some of them, whence he
+was able to see to a great distance round about him, but could discern no
+appearance of land; and that at last wanting food for his dogs, many of
+them died, which obliged him to return."
+
+Besides these arguments, which proceed upon an admission of the hypothesis,
+that the ice in those seas comes from the rivers, there are others which
+give great room to suspect the truth of the hypothesis itself. Captain
+Cook, whose opinion respecting the formation of ice had formerly coincided
+with that of the theorists we are now controverting, found abundant reason,
+in the present voyage, for changing his sentiments. We found the coast of
+each continent to be low, the soundings gradually decreasing toward them,
+and a striking resemblance between the two; which, together with the
+description Mr Hearne gives of the copper-mine river, afford reason to
+conjecture, that whatever rivers may empty themselves into the Frozen Sea,
+from the American continent, are of the same nature with those on the
+Asiatic side, which are represented to be so shallow at the entrance, as to
+admit only small vessels; whereas the ice we have seen rises above the
+level of the sea to a height equal to the depth of those rivers, so that
+its entire height must be at least ten times greater.
+
+The curious reader will also, in this place, be led naturally to reflect on
+another circumstance, which appears very incompatible with the opinion of
+those who imagine land to be necessary for the formation of ice; I mean the
+different state of the sea about Spitsbergen, and to the north of Beering's
+Strait. It is incumbent on them to explain how it comes to pass, that in
+the former quarter, and in the vicinity of much known land, the navigator
+annually penetrates to near 80° N. latitude; whereas, on the other side,
+his utmost efforts have not been able to carry him beyond 71°; where,
+moreover, the continents diverge nearly E. and W., and where there is no
+land yet known to exist near the Pole. For the farther satisfaction of the
+reader on this point, I shall beg leave to refer him to _Observations made
+during a Voyage round the World_, by Dr Forster, where he will find the
+question of the formation of ice fully and satisfactorily discussed, and
+the probability of open polar seas disproved by a variety of powerful
+arguments.[32]
+
+I shall conclude these remarks with a short comparative view of the
+progress we made to the northward, at the two different seasons we were
+engaged in that pursuit, together with a few general observations relative
+to the sea, and the coasts of the two continents, which lie to the north of
+Beering's Strait.
+
+It may be observed, that in the year 1778 we did not meet with the ice till
+we advanced to the latitude of 70°, on August 17th, and that then we found
+it in compact bodies, extending as far as the eye could reach, and of which
+a part or the whole was moveable, since, by its drifting down, upon us, we
+narrowly escaped being hemmed in between it and the land. After
+experiencing both how fruitless and dangerous it would be to attempt to
+penetrate farther north, between the ice and the land, we stood over toward
+the Asiatic side, between the latitude 69° and 70°, frequently encountering
+in this tract large and extensive fields of ice; and though, by reason, of
+the fogs and thickness of the weather, we were not able absolutely and
+entirely to trace a connected line of it across, yet we were sure to meet
+with it before we reached the latitude of 70°, whenever we attempted to
+stand to the northward. On the 26th of August, in latitude 69-3/4°, and
+longitude 184°, we were obstructed by it in such quantities, as made it
+impossible for us to pass either to the north or west, and obliged us to
+run along the edge of it to the S.S.W., till we saw land, which we
+afterward found to be the coast of Asia. With the season thus far advanced,
+the weather setting in with snow and sleet, and other signs of approaching
+winter, we abandoned our enterprize for that time.
+
+In this second attempt we could do little more than confirm the
+observations we had made in the first; for we were never able to approach
+the continent of Asia higher than the latitude 67°, nor that of America in
+any parts, excepting a few leagues between the latitude of 68° and 68° 20',
+that were not seen the last year. We were now obstructed by ice 3° lower,
+and our endeavours to push farther to the northward were principally
+confined to the mid-space between the two coasts. We penetrated near 3°
+farther on the American side than on the Asiatic, meeting with the ice both
+years sooner, and in greater quantities on the latter coast. As we advanced
+N., we still found the ice more compact and solid; yet, as in our different
+traverses from side to side, we passed over spaces which had, before been
+covered with it, we conjectured that most of what we saw was moveable. Its
+height, on a medium, we took to be from eight to ten feet, and that of the
+highest to have been sixteen or eighteen. We again tried the currents
+twice, and found them unequal, but never to exceed one mile an hour. By
+comparing the reckoning with the observations, we also found the current to
+set different ways, yet more from the S.W. than any other quarter; but
+whatever their direction might be, their effect was so trifling, that no
+conclusions respecting the existence of any passage to the northward could
+be drawn from them. We found the month of July to be infinitely colder than
+that of August. The thermometer in July was once at 28°, and very commonly
+at 30°; whereas the last year, in August, it was very rare to have it so
+low as the freezing point. In both seasons we had some high winds, all of
+which came from the S.W. We were subject to fogs whenever the wind was
+moderate, from whatever quarter, but they attended southerly winds more
+constantly than contrary ones.[33]
+
+The straits between the two continents, at their nearest approach in
+latitude 66°, were ascertained to be thirteen leagues, beyond which they
+diverge to N.E. by E. and W.N.W.; and in latitude 69°, they become 14° of
+longitude, or about one hundred leagues asunder. A great similarity is
+observable in the appearance of the two countries, to the northward of the
+straits. Both are destitute of wood. The shores are low, with mountains
+rising to a great height farther up the country. The depth of water in the
+mid-way between them was twenty-nine and thirty fathoms, decreasing
+gradually as we approached either continent, with the difference of being
+somewhat shoaler on the American than on the Asiatic coast, at the same
+distance from land. The bottom in the middle was a soft slimy mud, and on
+drawing near to either shore, a brown sand, intermixed with small fragments
+of bones, and a few shells. We observed but little tide or current; what
+there was came from the westward.
+
+But it is now time to resume the narrative of our voyage, which was broken
+off on the 31st of July, on which day at noon we had advanced eighteen
+leagues to the southward of the East Cape.
+
+We had light airs from the S.W., till noon of the 1st of August, at which
+time our latitude, by observation, was 64° 23', longitude 189° 15'; the
+coast of Asia extended from N.W. by W. to W. 1/2 S, distant about twelve
+leagues; and the land to the eastward of St Laurence bore S. 1/2 W. On the
+2d, the weather becoming clear, we saw the same land at noon, bearing from
+W.S.W. 1/2 W. to S.E., making in a number of high hummocks, which had the
+appearance of separate islands; the latitude, by observation, was 64° 3',
+longitude 189° 28', and depth of water seventeen fathoms. We did not
+approach this land sufficiently near to determine whether it was one
+island, or composed to a cluster together. Its westernmost part we passed
+July 3d, in the evening, and then supposed to be the island of St Laurence;
+the easternmost we ran close by in September last year, and this we named
+Clerke's Island, and found it to consist of a number of high cliffs, joined
+together by very low land. Though we mistook the last year those cliffs for
+separate islands, till we approached very near the shore, I should still
+conjecture that the island Saint Laurence was distinct from Clerke's
+Island, since there appeared a considerable space between them, where we
+could not perceive the smallest rising of ground.[34] In the afternoon we
+also saw what bore the appearance of a small island to the N.E. of the land
+which was seen at noon, and which, from the haziness of the weather, we had
+only sight of once. We estimated its distance to be nineteen leagues from
+the island of St Laurence, in a N.E. by E. 1/2 E. direction. On the 3d, we
+had light variable winds, and directed our course round the N.W. point of
+the island of Saint Laurence. On the 4th, at noon, our latitude by account
+was 64° 8', longitude 188°; the island Saint Laurence bearing S. 1/4 E.,
+distant seven leagues. In the afternoon, a fresh breeze springing up from
+the E., we steered to the S.S.W., and soon lost sight of Saint Laurence. On
+the 7th, at noon, the latitude by observation was 59° 38', longitude 183°.
+In the afternoon it fell calm, and we got a great number of cod in seventy-
+eight fathoms of water. The variation was found to be 19° E. From this time
+to the 17th, we were making the best of our way to the S., without any
+occurrence worth remarking, except that the wind coming from the western
+quarter, forced us farther to the eastward than we wished, as it was our
+intention to make Beering's Island.
+
+On the 17th, at half-past four in the morning, we saw land to the N.W.,
+which we could not approach, the wind blowing from that quarter. At noon,
+the latitude by observation was 53° 49', longitude 168° 5', and variation
+10° E. The land in sight bore N. by W. twelve or fourteen leagues distant.
+This land we take to be the island Mednoi, laid down in the Russian charts
+to the S.E. of Beering's Island. It is high land, and appeared clear of
+snow. We place it in the latitude 54° 28', longitude 167° 52'. We got no
+soundings with one hundred and fifty fathoms of line.
+
+Captain Clerke was now no longer able to get out of his bed; he therefore
+desired that the officers would receive their orders from me, and directed
+that we should proceed with all speed to Awatska Bay. The wind continuing
+westerly, we stood on to the S., till early on the morning of the 19th,
+when, after a few hours rain, it blew from the eastward, and freshened to a
+strong gale. We accordingly made the most of it whilst it lasted, by
+standing to the westward under all the sail we could carry. On the 20th,
+the wind shifting to the S.W., our course was to the W.N.W. At noon, the
+latitude by observation was 53° 7', longitude 162° 49'. On the 21st, at
+half-past five in the morning, we saw a very high peaked mountain on the
+coast of Kamtschatka, called Cheepoonskoi Mountain, from its lying behind
+the Noss, bearing N.W. by N., twenty-five or thirty leagues distant. At
+noon, the coast extended from N. by E. to W., with a very great haziness
+upon it, and distant about twelve leagues. We had light airs the remaining
+part of this and the following day, and got no soundings with one hundred
+and forty fathoms of line.
+
+On the 22d of August, 1779. at nine o'clock in the morning, departed this
+life Captain Charles Clerke, in the thirty-eighth year of his age. He died
+of a consumption, which had evidently commenced before he left England, and
+of which he had lingered during the whole voyage. His very gradual decay
+had long made him a melancholy object to his friends; yet the equanimity
+with which he bore it, the constant flow of good spirits which continued to
+the last hour, and a cheerful resignation to his fate, afforded them some
+consolation. It was impossible not to feel a more than common degree of
+compassion for a person whose life had been a continued scene of those
+difficulties and hardships to which a seaman's occupation is subject, and
+under which he at last sank. He was brought up to the navy from his
+earliest youth, and had been in several actions during the war which began
+in 1756, particularly in that between the Bellona and Courageux, where,
+being stationed in the mizen-top, he was carried overboard with the mast,
+but was taken up without having received any hurt. He was midshipman in the
+Dolphin, commanded by Commodore Byron, on her first voyage round the world,
+and afterward served on the American station. In 1768, he made his second
+voyage round the world in the Endeavour, as master's mate, and by the
+promotion which took place during the expedition, he returned a lieutenant.
+His third voyage round the world was in the Resolution, of which he was
+appointed the second lieutenant; and soon after his return in 1775, he was
+promoted to the rank of master and commander. When the present expedition
+was ordered to be fitted out, he was appointed to the Discovery, to
+accompany Captain Cook; and, by the death of the latter, succeeded, as has
+been already mentioned, to the chief command.
+
+It would be doing his memory extreme injustice not to say, that during the
+short time the expedition was under his direction, he was most zealous and
+anxious for its success. His health, about the time the principal command
+devolved upon him, began to decline very rapidly, and was every way unequal
+to encounter the rigours of a high northern climate. But the vigour and
+activity of his mind had, in no shape, suffered by the decay of his body;
+and though he knew, that by delaying his return to a warmer climate, he was
+giving up the only chance that remained for his recovery, yet, careful and
+jealous to the last degree, that a regard to his own situation should never
+bias his judgment to the prejudice of the service, he persevered in the
+search of a passage, till it was the opinion of every officer in both ships
+that it was impracticable, and that any farther attempts would not only be
+fruitless but dangerous.
+
+
+
+[25] From the circumstance, related in the last volume, that gave name to
+    Sledge Island, it appears that the inhabitants of the adjacent
+    continents visit occasionally the small islands lying between them,
+    probably for the conveniency of fishing, or in pursuit of furs.
+
+    It appears also from Popoff's deposition, which I shall have occasion
+    to speak of more particularly hereafter, that the general resemblance
+    between the people, who are seen in these islands, and the Tschutski,
+    was sufficient to lead Deshneff into the error of imagining them to be
+    the same. "Opposite to the Noss," he says, "is an island of moderate
+    size, without trees, whose inhabitants _resemble in their exterior the
+    Tschutski, although they are quite another nation_; not numerous,
+    indeed, yet speaking their own particular language." Again, "One may
+    go in a baidare from the Noss to the island in half a day; beyond is a
+    great continent, which can be discovered from the island in serene
+    weather. When the weather is good, one may go from the island to the
+    continent in a day. _The inhabitants of the continent are similar to
+    the Tschutski, excepting that they speak another language_."
+
+[26] I mention the more early Russian navigators, because Beering, whom we
+    have also followed, and after him all the late Russian geographers,
+    have given this name to the S.E. cape of the peninsula of the
+    Tschutski, which was formerly called the Anadirskoi Noss.
+
+[27] It ought, however, to be recollected, that though Shalauroff is
+    conceived never to have doubled Shelatskoi Noss, he nevertheless does
+    not appear to have considered there was any particular difficulty in
+    doing so. In his first attempt to sail from the Kovyma to the Eastern
+    Ocean, he was necessitated, by contrary winds, and the too far
+    advanced season of the year, to seek for a watering-place, before
+    having reached that cape. In the following year, again, he was
+    frustrated by want of provisions, and a mutiny of his crew, which
+    forced him to return to the Lena. The progress of his last enterprise
+    is somewhat uncertain, as neither he nor any of his crew ever
+    returned. But there are tolerably good reasons for believing, that, at
+    all events, he had surmounted the navigation of this cape, if not for
+    the opinion, that he actually accomplished the chief object of his
+    voyage, by bringing his vessel to the mouth of the Anadir, where, it
+    is on the whole, most probable, they were killed by the Tschutski.
+    This last circumstance, however, it is to be allowed Mr Coxe, affords
+    no decisive proof that they had doubled the eastern extremity of Asia,
+    for it is possible they might have reached the Anadir by a journey
+    over land. After all, then, we are forced to revert to Deshneff's
+    voyage as the solitary evidence, and that too but imperfectly
+    elucidated, of the practicability of reaching the Eastern Ocean from
+    the north coast of Asia.--E.
+
+[28] See chart in Coxe's Account of Russian Discoveries.
+
+[29] Here, it is not unlikely, some readers will feel regret, that a
+    greater sacrifice was not made, or a longer continued effort
+    practised, or a renewed attempt hazarded, in order to overcome so
+    inconsiderable a space, and so to double Shelatskoi Noss, whence, it
+    may be thought, there could have been comparatively little difficulty
+    in prosecuting the object of the voyage. The feeling is not
+    unreasonable, provided it be not made the basis of any thing like
+    censure on the management of the undertaking; in which case, it must
+    soon give way to the conviction of the superior good sense, and the
+    higher interest (excluding altogether, which is manifestly inhuman,
+    every concern for the persons immediately engaged in the enterprise)
+    displayed by the determination to abandon the attempt. To the force of
+    this conviction, it may be necessary to add the very material
+    consideration, that, even had it been any way practicable to double
+    the cape in question, and to reach the Lena in the same track as
+    Shalauroff, there would have still remained the space betwixt that
+    river and Archangel, which, though undoubtedly to a great degree
+    explored, does not appear to have been ever altogether navigated. To
+    the merely fanciful caviller at the result of this attempt, it would
+    be a prostitution of time and patience, even if one had both in the
+    requisite quantity, to offer a reply. But the observations which
+    Captain King immediately makes on this subject, will probably obviate
+    any objection which the most sanguine mind will be disposed to
+    entertain, and perhaps there was little occasion to subjoin a single
+    remark to his opinion.--E.
+
+[30] This is the only point on which, it seems possible, to question the
+    reasoning of Captain King, and that altogether on the ground of Mr
+    McKenzie's discovery, which of course was not known to that officer.
+    In virtue of that discovery, it seems obvious enough, that the implied
+    necessity of the run from the Icy Cape to Baffin's Bay in one short
+    season, according to the above argument, is reduced; though it would
+    be erroneous, to say, that the importance of the discovery is such as
+    very materially to modify the occasion for so great a navigation at
+    one stretch. But enough perhaps has been said on a subject, which can
+    scarcely be expected to claim more attention than it has done already,
+    or which, if it be yet destined to prompt to farther undertakings,
+    will do so for some such reasons, and on such grounds, as were
+    formerly adverted to.--E.
+
+[31] See Gmelin, pages 369, 374.
+
+[32] The reader may recollect that his attention was formerly directed to
+    the same work, and for the same reason. It ought now to be remarked,
+    that the subject has very recently attracted much attention by the
+    additional enquiries and observations of Mr Scoresby, as communicated
+    to the Wernerian Society of Edinburgh, and which are likely to lead to
+    some important results.--E.
+
+[33] It is worth while to remember that a corresponding observation as to
+    the comparative prevalence of fogs during a northerly wind, was made
+    in Cook's second voyage when navigating in a high south latitude.--E.
+
+[34] But this opinion is not admitted by Mr Arrowsmith, who has given but
+    one island in this position, as we have already mentioned.--E.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION V.
+
+
+Return to the Harbour of Saint Peter and St Paul.--Promotion of Officers.--
+Funeral of Captain Clerke.--Damages of the Discovery repaired.--Various
+other Occupations of the Ships' Crews.--Letters from the Commander.--Supply
+of Flour and Naval Stores from a Russian Galliot.--Account of an Exile.--
+Bear-hunting and fishing Parties.--Disgrace of the Serjeant.--Celebration
+of the King's Coronation Day, and Visit from the Commander.--The Serjeant
+reinstated.--A Russian Soldier promoted at our Request.--Remarks on the
+Discipline of the Russian Army.--Church at Paratounca.--Method of Bear-
+hunting--Farther Account of the Bears and Kamtschadales.--Inscription to
+the Memory of Captain Clerke.--Supply of Cattle.--Entertainments on the
+Empress's Name Day.--Present from the Commander.--Attempt of a Marine to
+desert.--Work out of the Bay.--Nautical and Geographical Description of
+Awatska Bay.--Astronomical Tables and Observations.
+
+
+I sent Mr Williamson to acquaint Captain Gore with the death of Captain
+Clerke, and received a letter from him, ordering me to use all my
+endeavours to keep in company with the Discovery; and, in case of a
+separation, to make the best of my way to the harbour of Saint Peter and
+Saint Paul. At noon, we were in latitude 53° 8' N., longitude 160° 40' E.,
+with Cheepoonskoi Noss bearing W. We had light airs in the afternoon, which
+lasted through the forenoon of the 23d. At noon, a fresh breeze springing
+up from the eastward, we stood in for the entrance of Awatska Bay; and, at
+six in the evening, saw it bearing W.N.W. 1/2 W., distant five leagues. At
+eight, the light-house, in which we now found a good light, bore N.W. by
+W., three miles distant. The wind about this time died away; but the tide
+being in our favour, we sent the boats ahead, and towed beyond the narrow
+parts of the entrance; and, at one o'clock in the morning of the 24th, the
+ebb tide setting against us, we dropped anchor. At nine we weighed, and
+turned up the bay with light airs, and the boats still ahead till one;
+when, by the help of a fresh breeze, we anchored before three in the
+afternoon in the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, with our ensign
+half staff up, on account of our carrying the body of our late captain, and
+were soon after followed by the Discovery.
+
+We had no sooner anchored than our old friend the serjeant, who was still
+the commander of the place, came on board with a present of berries,
+intended for our poor deceased captain. He was exceedingly affected when we
+told him of his death, and shewed him the coffin that contained his body.
+And as it was Captain Clerke's particular request to be buried on shore,
+and, if possible, in the church of Paratounca, we took the present
+opportunity of explaining this matter to the serjeant, and consulting with
+him about the proper steps to be taken on the occasion. In the course of
+our conversation, which, for want of an interpreter, was carried on but
+imperfectly, we learned that Professor De L'lsle and several other
+gentlemen who died here, had been buried in the ground near the barracks at
+the _ostrog_ of Saint Peter and Saint Paul's; and that this place would be
+preferable to Paratounca, as the church was to be removed thither the next
+year. It was therefore determined that we should wait for the arrival of
+the priest of Paratounca, whom the serjeant advised us to send for, as the
+only person that could satisfy our enquiries on this subject. The serjeant
+having, at the same time, signified his intention of sending off an express
+to the commander at Bolcheretsk, to acquaint him with our arrival, Captain
+Gore availed himself of that occasion of writing him a letter, in which he
+requested that sixteen head of black cattle might be sent with all possible
+expedition. And because the commander did not understand any language
+except his own, the nature of our request was made known to the serjeant,
+who readily undertook to send, along with our letter, an explanation of its
+contents.
+
+We could not help remarking, that, although the country was much improved
+in its appearance since we were last here, the Russians looked, if
+possible, worse now than they did then. It is to be owned, they observed,
+that this was also the case with us; and, as neither party seemed to like
+to be told of their bad looks, we found mutual consolation in throwing the
+blame upon the country, whose green and lively complexion, we agreed, cast
+a deadness and sallowness upon our own.
+
+The eruption of the _volcano_, which was so violent when we sailed out of
+the bay, we found had done no damage here, notwithstanding stones had
+fallen at the _ostrog_ of the size of a goose's egg. This was all the news
+we had to enquire after, and all they had to tell, excepting that of the
+arrival of Soposnikoff from Oonalashka, who took charge of the packet
+Captain Cook had sent to the Admiralty, and which, it gave us much
+satisfaction to find, had been forwarded.
+
+In the morning of the 25th, Captain Gore made out the new commissions, in
+consequence of Captain Clerke's death, appointing himself to the command of
+the Resolution, and me to the command of the Discovery; and Mr Lanyan,
+master's mate of the Resolution, who had served in that capacity on board
+the Adventure in the former voyage, was promoted to the vacant lieutenancy.
+These promotions produced the following farther arrangements: Lieutenants
+Burney and Rickman were removed from the Discovery to be first and second
+lieutenants of the Resolution; and lieutenant Williamson was appointed
+first lieutenant of the Discovery. Captain Gore also permitted me to take
+into the Discovery four midshipmen, who had made themselves useful to me in
+astronomical calculations, and whose assistance was now particularly
+necessary; as we had no _ephemeris_ for the present year. And, that
+astronomical observations might continue to be made in both ships, Mr
+Bayley took my place in the Resolution. The same day we were visited by the
+Pope Romanoff Vereshagen, the worthy priest of Paratounca. He expressed his
+sorrow at the death of Captain Clerke in a manner that did honour to his
+feelings, and confirmed the account given by the serjeant respecting the
+intended removal of the church to the harbour, adding, that the timber was
+actually preparing, but leaving the choice of either place entirely to
+Captain Gore.
+
+The Discovery, as has been mentioned, had suffered great damage from the
+ice, particularly on the 23d day of July; and having ever since been
+exceedingly leaky, it was imagined that some of her timbers had started.
+Captain Gore therefore sent the carpenters of the Resolution to assist our
+own in repairing her; and, accordingly, the forehold being cleared, to
+lighten her forward, they were set to work, to rip the damaged sheathing
+from the larboard bow. This operation discovered, that three feet of the
+third strake, under the wale, were staved and the timbers within started. A
+tent was next erected for the accommodation of such of our people as were
+employed on shore; and a party were sent a mile into the country, to the
+northward of the harbour, to fell timber. The observatories were erected at
+the west end of the village, near a tent in which Captain Gore and myself
+took up our abode.
+
+The farther we proceeded in removing the sheathing, the more we discovered
+of the decayed state of the ship's hull. The next morning, eight feet of a
+plank in the wale were found to be so exceedingly rotten, as to make it
+necessary to shift it. This left us for some time at a stand, as nothing
+was to be found in either ship wherewith to replace it, unless we chose to
+cut up a top-mast, an expedient not to be had recourse to, till all others
+failed. The carpenters were, therefore, sent on shore in the afternoon, in
+search of a tree big enough for the purpose. Luckily they found a birch,
+which I believe was the only one of sufficient size in the whole
+neighbourhood of the bay, and which had been sawed down by us when we were
+last here; so that it had the advantage of having lain some time to season.
+This was shaped on the spot, and brought on board the next morning.
+
+As the season was now so far advanced, I was fearful lest any delay or
+hindrance should arise, on our parts, to Captain Gore's farther views of
+discovery, and therefore gave orders that no more sheathing should be
+ripped off than was absolutely necessary for repairing the damages
+sustained by the ice. This I did, being apprehensive of their meeting with
+more decayed planks, which, I judged, had much better remain in that state,
+than be filled up with green birch, upon a supposition that such was to be
+had. All hands were at present busily employed in separate duties, that
+every thing might be in readiness for sea against the time our carpenters
+should have finished their work. We set apart four men to haul the seine
+for salmon, which were caught in great abundance, and found to be of an
+excellent quality. After supplying the immediate wants of both ships, we
+salted down near a hogshead a day. The invalids, who were four in number,
+were employed in gathering greens, and in cooking for the parties on shore.
+Our powder was also landed, in order to be dried; and the seahorse blubber,
+with which both ships, in our passage to the north, (as has been before
+related,) had stored themselves, was now boiled down for oil, which was
+become a necessary article, our candles having long since been expended.
+The cooper was fully engaged in his department; and in this manner were
+both ships' companies employed in their several occupations, till Saturday
+afternoon, which was given up to all our men, except the carpenters, for
+the purpose of washing their linen, and getting their clothes in some
+little order, that they might make a decent appearance on Sunday.
+
+In the afternoon of that day, we paid the last offices to Captain Clerke.
+The officers and men of both ships walked in procession to the grave,
+whilst the ships fired minute-guns; and the service being ended, the
+marines fired three vollies. He was interred under a tree which stands on
+rising ground, in the valley to the north side of the harbour, where the
+hospital and store-houses are situated; Captain Gore having judged this
+situation most agreeable to the last wishes of the deceased, for the
+reasons above-mentioned; and the priest of Paratounca having pointed out a
+spot for his grave, which, he said, would be, as near as he could guess, in
+the centre of the new church. This reverend pastor walked in the procession
+along with the gentleman who read the service; and all the Russians in the
+garrison were assembled, and attended with great respect and solemnity.
+
+On the 30th, the different parties returned to their respective
+employments, as mentioned in the course of the preceding week; and, on the
+2d of September, the carpenters having shifted the rotten and damaged
+planks, and repaired and caulked the sheathing of the larboard bow,
+proceeded to rip off the sheathing that had been injured by the ice, from
+the starboard side. Here again they discovered four feet of a plank, in the
+third strake under the wale, so shaken, as to make it necessary to be
+replaced. This was accordingly done, and the sheathing repaired on the 3d.
+In the afternoon of the same day, we got on board some ballast, unhung the
+rudder, and sent it on shore, the lead of the pintles being found entirely
+worn away, and a great part of the sheathing rubbed off. As the carpenters
+of the Resolution were not yet wanted, we got this set to rights the next
+day, but finding the rudder out of all proportion heavy, even heavier than
+that of the Resolution, we let it remain on shore in order to dry and
+lighten.
+
+The same day an ensign arrived from Bolcheretsk with a letter from the
+commander to Captain Gore, which we put into the serjeant's hands, and, by
+his assistance, were made to understand, that orders had been given about
+the cattle, and that they might be expected here in the course of a few
+days; and, moreover, that Captain Shmaleff, the present commander, would
+himself pay us a visit immediately on the arrival of a sloop which was
+daily expected from Okotzk. The young officer who brought the letter was
+the son of the Captain-lieutenant Synd, who commanded an expedition on
+discovery, between Asia and America, eleven years ago, and resided at this
+time at Okotzk.[35] He informed us, that he was sent to receive our
+directions, and to take care to get us supplied with whatever our service
+might require; and that he should remain with us till the commander was
+himself able to leave Bolcheretsk; after which he was to return, that the
+garrison there might not be left without an officer.
+
+On the 5th, the parties that were on shore returned on board, and were
+employed in scrubbing the ship's bottom, and getting in eight tons of
+shingle ballast. We also got up two of our guns that had been stowed in the
+fore-hold, and mounted them on the deck, being now about to visit nations,
+our reception amongst whom might a good deal depend on the respectability
+of our appearance.
+
+The Resolution hauled on shore on the 8th, to repair some damage which she
+had also received among the ice, in her cut-water, and our carpenters in
+their turn, were sent to her assistance.
+
+About this time we began to brew a strong decoction of a species of dwarf-
+pine that grows here in great abundance, thinking that it might hereafter
+be useful in making beer, and that we should probably be able to procure
+sugar or molasses to ferment with it at Canton. At all events I was sure it
+would be serviceable as a medicine for the scurvy; and was more
+particularly desirous of supplying myself with as much of it as I could
+procure, because most of the preventatives we had brought out were either
+used, or spoiled by keeping. By the time we had prepared a hogshead of it,
+the ship's copper was discovered to be very thin, and cracked in many
+places. This obliged me to desist, and to give orders that it should be
+used as sparingly for the future as possible. It might, perhaps, be an
+useful precaution for those who may hereafter be engaged in long voyages of
+this kind, either to provide themselves with a spare copper, or to see that
+the copper usually furnished be of the strongest kind. The various extra-
+services, in which it will be found necessary to employ them, and
+especially the important one of making antiscorbutic decoctions, seem
+absolutely to require some such provision; and I should rather recommend
+the former, on account of the additional quantity of fuel that would be
+consumed in heating thick coppers.
+
+In the morning of the 10th, the boats from both ships were sent to tow into
+the harbour a Russian galliot from Okotzk. She had been thirty-five days on
+her passage, and had been seen from the light-house a fortnight ago,
+beating up toward the mouth of the bay. At that time the crew had sent
+their only boat on shore for water, of which they now began to be in great
+want; and the wind freshening, the boat was lost on its return, and the
+galliot, being driven out to sea again, had suffered exceedingly.
+
+There were fifty soldiers in her, with their wives and children, and
+several other passengers, besides the crew, which consisted of twenty-five,
+so that they had upward of an hundred souls on board. A great number for a
+vessel of eighty tons; and that was also heavy laden with stores and
+provisions. Both this galliot, and the sloop we saw here in May, are built
+like the Dutch doggers. Soon after she had come to anchor, we received a
+visit from a _put-parouchick_, or sub-lieutenant, who was a passenger in
+the galliot, and sent to take the command of this place. Part of the
+soldiers, we understood, were also designed to reinforce the garrison; and
+two pieces of small cannon were landed, as an additional defence to the
+town. It should seem, from these circumstances, that our visit here had
+drawn the attention of the Russian commanders in Siberia, to the
+defenceless situation of the place; and I was told by the honest serjeant,
+with many significant shrugs, that, as we had found our way into it, other
+nations might do the same, some of whom might not be altogether so
+welcome.[36]
+
+Next morning the Resolution hauled off from the shore, having repaired the
+damages she had sustained by the ice; and, in the course of the day, we got
+from the galliot a small quantity of pitch, tar, cordage, and twine; canvas
+was the only thing we asked for, with which their scanty store did not put
+it into their power to supply us. We also received from her an hundred and
+forty skins of flour, amounting to 13,782 pounds English, after deducting
+five pounds for the weight of each bag.
+
+We had a constant course of dry weather till this day, when there came on a
+heavy rain, accompanied with strong squalls of wind, which obliged us to
+strike our yards and topmasts.
+
+The 12th, being Sunday, was kept as a day of rest; but the weather
+unfortunately continuing foul, our men could not derive the advantage from
+it we wished, by gathering the berries that grew in great quantities and
+varieties on the coast, and taking other pastime on shore. The same day
+Ensign Synd left us to return to Bolcheretsk with the remainder of the
+soldiers that came in the galliot. He had been our constant guest during
+his stay. Indeed we could not but consider him, on his father's account, as
+in some measure belonging to us, and entitled, as one of the family of
+discoverers, to a share in our affections.
+
+We had hitherto admitted the serjeant to our tables, in consideration of
+his being commander of the place; and, moreover, because he was a quick,
+sensible man, and comprehended better than any other, the few Russian words
+we had learned. Ensign Synd had very politely suffered him to enjoy the
+same privileges during his stay; but, on the arrival of the new commander
+from Okotzk, the serjeant, for some cause or other, which we could not
+learn, fell into disgrace, and was no longer suffered to sit down in the
+company of his own officers. It was in vain to think of making any attempt
+to obtain an indulgence, which, though it would have been highly agreeable
+to us, was doubtless incompatible with their discipline.
+
+On Wednesday we had finished the stowage of the holds, got on board all our
+wood and water, and were ready to put to sea at a day's notice. It is
+however necessary to observe, that though every thing was in this degree of
+readiness on board, the cattle were not yet arrived from Verchnei; and as
+fresh provisions were the most important article of our wants, and in a
+great measure necessary for the health of the men, we could not think of
+taking our departure without them. We therefore thought this a favourable,
+opportunity (especially as there was an appearance of fine weather) of
+taking some amusement on shore, and acquiring a little knowledge of the
+country. Accordingly Captain Gore proposed a party of bear-hunting, which
+we all very readily came into.
+
+We did not set out on this expedition till Friday the 17th, in order to
+give a day's rest to the Hospodin Ivaskin, a new acquaintance, that was to
+be of our party, and who came down here on Wednesday. This gentleman who,
+we understood, usually resides at Verchnei, had been desired by Major Behm
+to attend us on our return to the harbour, in order to be our interpreter;
+and the accounts we had heard of him before his arrival had excited in us a
+great curiosity to see him.
+
+He is of a considerable family in Russia. His father was a general in the
+empress's service; and he himself, after having received his education
+partly in France, and partly in Germany, had been page to the Empress
+Elizabeth, and an ensign in her guards. At the age of sixteen he was
+_knowted_, had his nose slit, and was banished first to Siberia, and
+afterward to Kamtschatka, where he had now lived thirty-one years. He was a
+very tall thin man, with a face all over furrowed with deep wrinkles; and
+bore in his whole figure the strongest marks of old age, though he had
+scarcely reached his fifty-fourth year.
+
+To our very great disappointment he had so totally forgotten both his
+German and French, as not to be able to speak a sentence, nor readily to
+understand what was said to him in either of these languages. We found
+ourselves thus unfortunately deprived of what we flattered ourselves would
+have turned out a favourable opportunity of getting farther information
+relative to this country. We had also promised ourselves much pleasure from
+the history of this extraordinary man, which he probably would have been
+induced to relate to strangers, who might perhaps be of some little service
+to him, but who could have no inducement to take advantage from any thing
+he might say to do him an injury. No one here knew the cause of his
+banishment, but they took it for granted that it must have been for
+something very atrocious, particularly as two or three commanders of
+Kamtschatka have endeavoured to get him recalled since the present
+empress's reign; but far from succeeding in this, they have not been even
+able to get the place of his banishment changed. He told us that for twenty
+years he had not tasted bread, nor had been allowed subsistence of any kind
+whatsoever; but that during this period he had lived among the
+Kamtschadales on what his own activity and toil in the chase had furnished:
+That afterward he had a small pension granted; and that, since Major Behm
+came to the command, his situation had been, infinitely mended. The notice
+that worthy man had taken of him, and his having often invited him to
+become his guest, had been the occasion of others following his example;
+besides which, he had been the means of getting his pension increased to
+one hundred roubles a year, which is the common pay of an ensign in all
+parts of the empress's dominions, except in this province, where the pay of
+all the officers is double. Major Behm told us that he had obtained
+permission to take him to Okotzk, which was to be the place of his
+residence in future; but that he should leave him behind for the present,
+on an idea that he might, on our return to the bay, be useful to us as an
+interpreter.[37]
+
+Having given orders to the first lieutenants of both ships, to let the
+rigging have such a repair as the supply of stores we had lately received
+would permit, we set out on our hunting party, under the direction of the
+corporal of the Kamtschadales, intending, before we began to look for our
+game, to proceed straight to the head of Behm's Harbour. It is an inlet on
+the west side of the bay, (which we had named after that officer, from its
+being a favourite place of his, and having been surveyed by himself,) and
+is called by the natives Tareinska.
+
+In our way toward this harbour we met the _Toion_ of Saint Peter and Saint
+Paul in a canoe, with his wife and two children, and another Kamtschadale.
+He had killed two seals upon a round island, that lies in the entrance of
+the harbour, with which, and a great quantity of berries that he had
+gathered, he was returning home. As the wind had veered to the S.W., we now
+changed our route by his advice; and, instead of going up the harbour,
+directed our course to the northward, toward a pool of water that lies near
+the mouth of the river Paratounca, and which was a known haunt of the
+bears. We had scarce landed, when unfortunately the wind changed to the
+eastward, and a second time destroyed all hopes of coming up with our game;
+for the Kamtschadales assured us, that it was in vain to expect to meet
+with bears, whilst we were to the windward, owing to their being possessed
+of an uncommon acuteness in scenting their pursuers, which enabled them,
+under such circumstances, to avoid the danger, whilst it is yet at a very
+great distance. We returned therefore to the boat, and passed the night on
+the beach, having brought a tent with us for that purpose, and the next
+day, by the advice of our guides, crossed the bay, and went to the head of
+Rakoweena Harbour.
+
+Having here secured the boats, we proceeded with all our luggage on foot,
+and, after a walk of five or six miles, came to the sea-side, a league to
+the northward of the light-house head. From hence, as far as we could see
+toward Cheepoonskoi Noss, there is a continued narrow border of low level
+ground adjoining to the sea, which is covered with heath, and produces
+great abundance of berries, particularly those called partridge and crow
+berries. We were told we should not fail to meet with a number of bears
+feeding upon those berries; but that the weather being showery, was
+unfavourable for us.
+
+Accordingly we directed our course along this plain, and, though we saw
+several bears at a distance, we could never, with all our management,
+contrive to get within shot of them. Our diversion was therefore changed to
+spearing of salmon, which we saw pushing in great numbers through the surf
+into a small river. I could not help observing how much inferior our
+Kamtschadales were, at this method of fishing, to the people at Oonalashka;
+nor were their instruments, although pointed with iron, near so good for
+the purpose, nor to be compared in neatness to those of the Americans,
+though pointed only with bone. On enquiring into the reason of this
+inferiority, I was informed by the corporal, who had lived many years
+amongst the Americans, that formerly the Kamtschadales made use of the same
+kind of darts and spears with the Americans, headed and barbed with bone,
+and were not less dexterous in the management of them than the latter. We
+could not understand one another sufficiently for me to learn the cause of
+this change; probably it was one of the not unusual effects of a forced and
+imperfect state of improvement. It fell out very opportunely that the water
+afforded us a little prey; for, besides our ill success in the chase by
+land, we had also been disappointed in our expectations of shooting wild
+fowl, on a supply of which we had in some measure depended for our
+subsistence; and, on its failure, began to think that we had been full long
+absent from head quarters.
+
+Our Kamtschadales now discovered that the want of success in not meeting
+with game, was owing to the party being too large, and to the unavoidable
+noise that was the consequence of it. We therefore agreed to separate,
+Ivaskin, the corporal, and myself, forming one party, Captain Gore, and the
+rest of the company, the other.
+
+Accordingly, after passing the night under our tent, we set out on the
+morning of the 19th, by different routes, meaning to take a circuit round
+the country, and meet at Saint Peter and Saint Paul. The party to which I
+belonged took the course of the river, at the mouth of which we had fished
+for the salmon; and, after being thoroughly soaked by the heavy rains that
+fell all the morning, we came about three in the afternoon to some old
+_balagans_, where a Kamtschadale village had been formerly situated,
+without meeting with a single bear during the whole of a long and tedious
+walk. It was our first intention to have remained here all night, in order
+to have resumed our chase early the next morning; but the weather clearing,
+and, at the same time, a fresh breeze springing up from a quarter
+unfavourable to our designs, the Hospodin, whom former sufferings had made
+very unfit to bear much fatigue, and who seemed at present more
+particularly distressed from having emptied his snuff-box, began to be very
+importunate with us to return home. It was some time before the old
+corporal consented, alleging, that we were at a great distance from the
+harbour, and that, on account of the badness of the way, the night would
+probably overtake us before we reached the end of our journey. At length,
+however, he yielded to Ivaskin's entreaties, and conducted us along the
+side of a number of small lakes, with which the flat part of this country
+seems much to abound. These lakes are from half a mile to two miles in
+length, and about half a mile broad; the water is fresh and clear, and they
+are full of a red-coloured fish, resembling, both in shape and size, a
+small salmon; of which a more particular description will be given
+hereafter. The banks of these lakes were covered with fragments of fish
+that the bears had half eaten, and which caused an intolerable stench. We
+often came upon the spots which the bears had just left, but were never
+able even to come within sight of them.
+
+It was night before we reached the ships, and we had then been twelve hours
+upon our legs. Poor Ivaskin found himself exceedingly tired and overcome
+with fatigue; probably he was more sensible of it for want of a supply of
+snuff; for every step he took his hand dived mechanically into his pocket,
+and drew out his huge empty box. We had scarcely got into the tent, when
+the weather set in exceedingly rough and wet. We congratulated ourselves
+that we had not staid out another day, the Hospodin's box was replenished,
+and we forgot the fatigues and ill success of our expedition over a good
+supper.
+
+I was exceedingly sorry, on being told the next day, that our friend the
+serjeant had undergone corporal punishment during our absence, by command
+of the old _Putparouchick_. None of our people had been able to learn, what
+was the cause of his displeasure; but it was imagined to have arisen from
+some little jealousy subsisting between them, on account of the civility
+which we had shewn to the former. However, having every reason to believe
+that the offence, whatever it might be, did not call for so disgraceful a
+chastisement, we could not help being both sorry and much provoked at it,
+as the terms on which we had lived with him, and the interest we were known
+to take in his affairs, made the affront, in some measure, personal to
+ourselves; for it has not yet been mentioned, that we had consulted with
+the late worthy commander, Major Behm, who was also his friend, by what
+means we might be most likely to succeed in doing him some service for the
+good order he had kept in the _ostrog_ during our stay, and for his
+readiness on all occasions to oblige us. The major advised a letter of
+recommendation to the governor-general, which Captain Clerke had
+accordingly given him, and which, backed with his own representations, he
+had no doubt would get the serjeant advanced a step higher in his
+profession.
+
+We did not choose to make any remonstrance on this subject till the arrival
+of Captain Shmaleff. Indeed our inability, from the want of language, to
+enter into any discussion of the business, made it advisable to come to
+this determination. However, when the _Putparouchick_ paid us his next
+visit, we could not help testifying our chagrin by receiving him very
+coolly.
+
+The 22d being the anniversary of his majesty's coronation, twenty-one guns
+were fired, and the handsomest feast our situation would allow of, was
+prepared, in honour of the day. As we were sitting down to dinner, the
+arrival of Captain Shmaleff was announced. This was a most agreeable
+surprise; in the first place, because he arrived so opportunely to partake
+of the good fare and festivity of the occasion; and, in the next, because,
+in our last accounts of him, we were given to understand, that the effects
+of a severe illness had made him unequal to the journey. We were glad to
+find this had been merely an excuse; that, in fact, he was ashamed of
+coming empty-handed, knowing we must be in great want of tea, sugar, &c.
+&c.; and that therefore he had deferred his setting out, in daily
+expectation of the sloop from Okotzk; but having no tidings of her, and
+dreading lest we should sail, without his having paid us a visit, he was
+determined to set out, though with nothing better to present to us than
+apologies for the poverty of Bolcheretsk. At the same time he acquainted
+us, that our not having received the sixteen head of black cattle we had
+desired might be sent down, was owing to the very heavy rains at Verchnei,
+which had prevented their setting out. We made the best answer we were able
+to so much politeness and generosity; and the next day, on coming on board
+the Resolution, he was saluted with eleven guns. Specimens of all our
+curiosities were presented to him, and Captain Gore added to them a gold
+watch and a fowling-piece.
+
+The next day he was entertained on board the Discovery, and on the 25th he
+took leave of us to return to Bolcheretsk. He could not be prevailed upon
+to lengthen his visit, having some expectations, as he told us, that the
+sub-governor-general, who was at this time making a tour through all the
+provinces of the Governor-general of Jakutzk, might arrive in the sloop
+that was daily expected from Okotzk. Before his departure, and without any
+interference of ours, he reinstated the serjeant in the command of this
+place, having determined to take the _Putparouchick_ along with him; at the
+same time we understood that he was highly displeased with him on account
+of the punishment that had been inflicted on the serjeant, and for which
+there did not appear to be the slightest foundation.
+
+Captain Shmaleff's great readiness to give us every possible proof of his
+desire to oblige us, encouraged us to ask a small favour for another of our
+Kamtschadale friends. It was to requite an old soldier, whose house had
+been at all times open to the inferior officers, and who had done both them
+and all the crew a thousand good offices. The captain most obligingly
+complied with our request, and dubbed him (which was all he wished for) a
+corporal upon the spot, and ordered him to thank the English officers for
+his great promotion. It may not here be improper to observe, that in the
+Russian army the inferior class of officers enjoy a degree of pre-eminence
+above the private men, with which we, in our service, are in a great
+measure unacquainted. It was no small astonishment to us, to see a serjeant
+keep up all the state, and exact all the respect from all beneath him
+belonging to a field-officer. It may be farther remarked, that there are
+many more gradations of rank amongst them than are to be met with in other
+countries. Between a serjeant and a private man, there are not less than
+four intermediate steps; and I have no doubt, but that the advantages
+arising from this system are found to be very considerable. The salutary
+effects of little subordinate ranks in our sea-service cannot be
+questioned. It gives rise to great emulation, and the superior officers are
+enabled to bestow, on almost every possible degree of merit, a reward
+proportioned to it.
+
+Having been incidentally led into this subject, I shall beg leave to add
+but one observation more, namely, that the discipline of the Russian army,
+though at this distance from the seat of government, is of the strictest
+and severest kind, from which even the commissioned officers are not
+exempt. The punishment of the latter for small offences is imprisonment,
+and a bread and water diet. An ensign, a good friend of ours at this place,
+told us, that, for having been concerned in a drunken riot, he was confined
+in the black hole for three months, and fed upon bread and water; which, he
+said, so shattered his nerves, that he had never since had spirits for a
+common convivial meeting.
+
+I accompanied Captain Shmaleff to the entrance of Awatska River; and having
+bid him farewell, took this opportunity of paying a visit to the priest of
+Paratounca. On Sunday, the 26th, I attended him to church. The congregation
+consisted of his own family, three Kamtschadale men, and three boys, who
+assisted in singing part of the service; the whole of which was performed
+in a very solemn and edifying manner. The church is of wood, and by far the
+best building either in this town or that of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. It
+is ornamented with many paintings, particularly with two pictures of Saint
+Peter and Saint Paul, presented by Beering; and which, in the real richness
+of their drapery, would carry off the prize from the first of our European
+performances; for all the principal parts of it are made of thick plates of
+solid silver, fastened to the canvas, and fashioned into the various
+foldings of the robes with which the figures were clothed.
+
+The next day, I set on foot another hunting party, and put myself under the
+direction of the clerk of the parish, who was a celebrated bear-hunter. We
+arrived by sun-set, at the side of one of the larger lakes. The next step
+was to conceal ourselves as much as possible; and this we were able to do
+effectually, among some long grass and brushwood, that grew close to the
+water's edge. We had not lain long in ambush, before we had the pleasure to
+hear the growlings of bears in different parts round about us; and our
+expectations were soon gratified, by the sight of one of them in the water,
+which seemed to be swimming directly to the place where we lay hid. The
+moon, at this time, gave a considerable light; and when the animal had
+advanced about fifteen yards, three of us fired at it, pretty nearly at the
+same time. The beast immediately turned short on one side, and set up a
+noise, which could not properly be called roaring, nor growling, nor
+yelling, but was a mixture of all three, and horrible beyond description.
+We plainly saw that it was severely wounded, and that with difficulty it
+gained the bank, and retreated to some thick bushes at a little distance.
+It still continued to make the same loud and terrible noise; and though the
+Kamtschadales were persuaded it was mortally wounded, and could get no
+farther, yet they thought it most advisable not to rouse it again for the
+present. It was at this time past nine o'clock; and the night becoming
+overcast, and threatening a change of weather, we thought it most prudent
+to return home, and defer the gratification of our curiosity till morning,
+when we returned to the spot, and found the bear dead, in the place to
+which it had been watched. It proved to be a female, and beyond the common
+size.
+
+As the account of our first hunting-party will be apt to give the reader a
+wrong idea of the method in which this sport is usually conducted, it may
+not be amiss to add a few more words on the subject; and which I am the
+better able to do since this last expedition.
+
+When the natives come to the ground frequented by the bears, which they
+contrive to reach about sun-set, the first step is to look for their
+tracks; to examine which are the freshest, and the best situated with a
+view to concealment; and taking aim at the beast, either as he is passing
+by, or advancing in front, or going from them. These tracks are found in
+the greatest numbers, leading from the woods down to the lakes, and among
+the long sedgy grass and brakes by the edge of the water. The place of
+ambuscade being determined upon, the hunters next fix in the ground the
+crutches, upon which their firelocks are made to rest, pointing them in the
+direction they mean to make their shot. This done, they kneel, or lie down,
+as the circumstances of the cover require; and, with their bear-spears by
+their side, wait for their game. These precautions, which are chiefly taken
+in order to make sure of their mark, are, on several accounts, highly
+expedient. For, in the first place, ammunition is so dear at Kamtschatka,
+that the price of a bear will not purchase more of it than is sufficient to
+load a musquet four or five times; and, what, is more material, if the bear
+be not rendered incapable of pursuit by the first shot, the consequences
+are often fatal. He immediately makes toward the place from whence the
+noise and smoke issue, and attacks his adversaries with great fury. It is
+impossible for them to reload, as the animal is seldom at more than twelve
+or fifteen yards distance when he is fired at; so that if he does not fall,
+they immediately put themselves in a posture to receive him upon their
+spears; and their safety greatly depends on their giving him a mortal stab,
+as he first comes upon them. If he parries the thrust, (which, by the
+extraordinary strength and agility of their paws, they are often enabled to
+do,) and thereby breaks in upon his adversaries, the conflict becomes very
+unequal, and it is well if the life of one of the party alone suffice to
+pay the forfeit.[38]
+
+There are two seasons of the year when this diversion, or occupation, as it
+may be rather called, is more particularly dangerous; in the spring, when
+the bears first come forth, after having subsisted, as is universally
+asserted here, on sucking their paws through the winter; and especially if
+the frost happen to be severe, and the ice not to be broken up in the lake
+at that time, by which means they are deprived of their ordinary and
+expected food. Under these circumstances, they soon become exceedingly
+famished, and fierce and savage in proportion. They will pursue the natives
+by the scent; and as they now prowl about out of their usual tracks,
+frequently come upon them unawares; and when this happens, as the
+Kamtschadales have not the smallest notion of shooting flying, nor even at
+an animal running, or in any way except with their piece on a rest, the
+bear-hunters often fall a sacrifice to their hunger. The other season in
+which it is dangerous to come in their way, is at the time of their
+copulation, which is generally about this time of the year.
+
+An extraordinary instance of natural affection in these animals has been
+already mentioned. The chace affords a variety of a similar nature, and not
+less affecting; many of which were related to me. The Kamtschadales derive
+great advantage in hunting from this circumstance. They, never venture to
+fire upon a young bear, when the mother is near; for if the cub drop, she
+becomes enraged to a degree little short of madness; and if she get sight
+of the enemy, will only quit her revenge with her life. On the contrary, if
+the dam be shot, the cubs will not leave her side, even after she has been
+dead a long time, but continue about her, shewing, by a variety of
+affecting actions and gestures, marks of the deepest affliction, and thus
+become any easy prey to the hunters.
+
+Nor is the sagacity of the bears, if the Kamtschadales are to be credited,
+less extraordinary, or less worthy to be remarked, than their natural
+affection. Of this they have a thousand stories to relate. I shall content
+myself with mentioning one instance, which the natives speak of as a well-
+known fact, and that is, the stratagem they have recourse to in order to
+catch the bareins, which are considerably too swift of foot for them. These
+animals keep together in large herds; they frequent mostly the low grounds,
+and love to browse at the feet of rocks and precipices. The bear hunts them
+by scent, till he come in sight, when he advances warily, keeping above
+them, and concealing himself amongst the rocks, as he makes his approaches,
+till he gets immediately over them, and nigh enough for his purpose. He
+then begins to push down with his paws pieces of the rock amongst the herd
+below. This manoeuvre is not followed by any attempt to pursue, until he
+find he has maimed one of the flock, upon which a course immediately
+ensues, that proves successful, or otherwise, according to the hurt the
+barein has received.[39]
+
+I cannot conclude this digression, without observing, that the
+Kamtschadales very thankfully acknowledge their obligations to the bears
+for what little advancement they have hitherto made either in the sciences
+or polite arts. They confess that they owe to them all their skill both to
+physic and surgery; that, by remarking with what herbs these animals rub
+the wounds they have received, and what they have recourse to when sick and
+languid, they have become acquainted with most of the simples in use among
+them, either in the way of internal medicine, or external application. But,
+what will appear somewhat more singular, is, they acknowledge the bears
+likewise for their dancing-masters. Indeed, the evidence of one's senses
+puts this out of dispute; for the bear-dance of the Kamtschadales is an
+exact counterpart of every attitude and gesture peculiar to this animal,
+through its various functions; and this is the foundation and groundwork of
+all their other dances, and what they value themselves most upon.
+
+I returned to the ships on the 28th, very well pleased with my excursion,
+as it had afforded me an opportunity of seeing a little more of the
+country, and of observing the manners and behaviour of the Kamtschadales,
+when freed from that constraint which they evidently lie under in the
+company of the Russians.
+
+No occurrence worth mentioning took place till the 30th, when Captain Gore
+went to Paratounca, to put up in the church there an escutcheon, prepared
+by Mr Webber, with an inscription upon it, setting forth Captain Clerke's
+age and rank, and the object of the expedition in which he was engaged at
+the time of his decease. We also affixed to the tree under which he was
+buried, a board, with an inscription upon it to the same effect.[40]
+
+Before his departure, Captain Gore left orders with me to get the ships out
+of the harbour into the bay, to be in readiness to sail. We were prevented
+from doing this by a violent gale of wind, which lasted the whole day of
+the 1st of October. However, on the 2d, both ships warped out of the
+harbour, clear of the narrow passage, and came to anchor in seven fathoms,
+a quarter of a mile from the _ostrog_.
+
+The day before we went out of the harbour the cattle arrived from Verchnei;
+and, that the men might receive the full benefit of this capital and much-
+longed-for supply, by consuming it fresh, Captain Gore came to a
+determination of staying five or six days longer. Nor was this time idly
+employed. The boats, pumps, sails, and rigging of both ships, thereby
+received an additional repair. And Captain Gore sparing me some molasses,
+and the use of the Resolution's copper, I was enabled to brew a fortnight's
+beer for the crew, and to make a farther provision of ten puncheons of
+strong spruce essence. The present supply was the more acceptable, as our
+last cask of spirits, except a small quantity left in reserve for cases of
+necessity, was now serving out.
+
+The 3d was the name-day of the Empress, and we could want no inducement to
+shew it every possible respect. Accordingly, Captain Gore invited the
+priest of Paratounca, Ivaskin, and the serjeant, to dinner; and an
+entertainment was also provided for the inferior officers of the garrison;
+for the two _Toions_ of Paratounca and Saint Peter and Saint Paul, and for
+the other better sort of Kamtschadale inhabitants. The rest of the natives,
+of every description, were invited to partake with the ships' companies,
+who had a pound of good fat beef served out to each man; and what remained
+of our spirits was made into grog, and divided amongst them. A salute of
+twenty-one guns was fired at the usual hour; and the whole was conducted
+(considering the part of her dominion it was in) in a manner not unworthy
+so renowned and magnificent an empress.
+
+On the 5th, we received from Bolcheretsk a fresh supply of tea, sugar, and
+tobacco. This present had met Captain Shmaleff on his return, and was
+accompanied by a letter from him, in which he informed us, that the sloop
+from Okotzk had arrived during his absence; and that Madame Shmaleff, who
+was entirely in our interests, had lost no time in dispatching a courier
+with the few presents, of which our acceptance was requested.
+
+The appearance of foul weather on the 6th and 7th, prevented our unmooring;
+but on the morning of the 8th, we sailed out toward the mouth of the bay,
+and hoisted in all the boats, when the wind, veering to the southward,
+stopped our farther progress, and obliged us to drop anchor in ten fathoms;
+the _ostrog_ bearing due north, half a league distant.
+
+The weather being foggy, and the wind from the same quarter during the
+forenoon of the 9th, we continued in our station. At four in the afternoon
+we again unmoored; but whilst we were with great difficulty weighing our
+last anchor, I was told that the drummer of the marines had left the boat
+which had just returned from the village, and that he was last seen with a
+Kamtschadale woman, to whom his messmates knew he had been much attached,
+and who had often been observed persuading him to stay behind. Though this
+man had been long useless to us, from a swelling in his knee, which
+rendered him lame, yet this made me the more unwilling he should be left
+behind, to become a miserable burden both to the Russians and himself. I
+therefore got the serjeant to send parties of soldiers, in different
+directions, in search of him, whilst some of our sailors went to a well-
+known haunt of his in the neighbourhood, where they found him with his
+woman. On the return of this party, with our deserter, we weighed, and
+followed the Resolution out of the bay.
+
+Having at length taken our leave of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, I shall
+conclude this section with a particular description of Awatska Bay, and the
+coast adjoining; not only because (its three inlets included) it
+constitutes, perhaps, the most extensive and safest harbour that has yet
+been discovered, but because it is the only port in this part of the world
+capable of admitting ships of any considerable burden. The term Bay,
+indeed, is perhaps not applicable, properly speaking, to a place so well
+sheltered as Awatska; but, then, it must be observed, that, from the loose
+undistinguishing manner in which navigators have denominated certain
+situations of sea and land, with respect to each other, bays, roads,
+sounds, harbours, &c. we have no defined and determinate ideas affixed to
+these words, sufficient to warrant us in changing a popular name for one
+that may appear more proper.
+
+The entrance into this bay is in 52° 51' north latitude, and 158° 48' east
+longitude, and lies in the bight of another exterior bay, formed by
+Cheepoonskoi Noss to the N., and Cape Gavareea to the S. The former of
+these head lands bears from the latter N.E. by N. 3/4 E., and is distant
+thirty-two leagues. The coast from Cape Gavareea to the entrance of Awatska
+Bay, takes a direction nearly N., and is eleven leagues in extent. It
+consists of a chain of high ragged cliffs, with detached rocks frequently
+lying off them. This coast, at a distance, presents in many parts an
+appearance of bays or inlets, but, on a nearer approach, the head-lands
+were found connected by low ground.
+
+Cheepoonskoi Noss bears, from the entrance of the bay, E.N.E. 1/4 E, and is
+twenty-five leagues distant. On this side the shore is low and flat, with
+hills rising behind to a considerable height. In the latitude of Cape
+Gavareea there is an error of twenty-one miles in the Russian charts, its
+true latitude being 52° 21'.
+
+This striking difference of the land on each side Awatska Bay, with their
+different bearings, are the best guides to steer for it in coming from the
+southward; and, in approaching it from the northward, Cheepoonskoi Noss
+will make itself very conspicuous; for it is a high projecting head-land,
+with a considerable extent of level ground lower than the Noss, uniting it
+to the continent. It presents the same appearance, whether viewed from the
+north or south, and will warn the mariner not to be deceived in imagining
+Awatska Bay to lie in the bight which the coast forms to the northward of
+this Noss, and which might be the case, from the striking resemblance there
+is between a conical hill within this bight or bay, and one to the south of
+Awatska Bay.
+
+I have been thus particular in giving a minute description of this coast,
+from our own experience of the want of it. For had we been furnished with a
+tolerable account of the form of the coast on each side of Awatska Bay, we
+should, on our first arrival upon it, have got safely within the bay two
+days before we did, and thereby have avoided part of the stormy weather
+which came on when we were plying off the mouth of the harbour. Besides,
+from the prevalence of fogs in these seas, it must frequently happen, that
+an observation for ascertaining the latitude cannot be got; to which we may
+add, that the deceptive appearances land makes when covered with snow, and
+when viewed through an hazy atmosphere, both which circumstances prevail
+here during the greatest part of the year, render the knowledge of a
+variety of discriminating objects the more necessary.
+
+Should, however, the weather be clear enough to admit a view of the
+mountains on the coast in its neighbourhood, these will serve to point out
+the situation of Awatska Bay, with a great deal of precision. For to the
+south of it are two high mountains; that which is nearest to the bay, is
+shaped like a sugar-loaf; the other, which is farther inland, does not
+appear so high, and is flat at the top. To the north of the bay, are three
+very conspicuous mountains; the westernmost is, to appearance, the highest;
+the next is the _volcano_ mountain, which may be known from the smoke that
+issues from its top, and likewise from some high table-hills connected with
+it, and stretching to the northward; these two are somewhat peaked. The
+third, and the most northerly, might perhaps be more properly called a
+cluster of mountains, as it presents to the sight several flat tops.
+
+When the navigator has got within the capes, and into the outward bay, a
+perpendicular head-land, with a lighthouse erected upon it, will point out
+the entrance of the bay of Awatska to the northward. To the eastward of
+this head-land lie many sunken rocks, stretching into the sea, to the
+distance of two or three miles; and which will shew themselves, if there be
+but a moderate sea or swell. Four miles to the south of the entrance lies a
+small round island, very distinguishable from being principally composed of
+high pointed rocks, with one of them strikingly remarkable, as being much
+larger, more peaked and perpendicular than the rest.
+
+It is no way necessary to be equally particular in the description of the
+bay itself, as of its approaches and environs; since no words can give the
+mariner a perfect idea of it. The entrance is at first near three miles
+wide, and in the narrowest part one mile and a half, and four miles long,
+in a N.N.W. direction. Within the mouth is a noble bason of twenty-five
+miles circuit, with the capacious harbours of Tareinska to the W., of
+Rakoweena to the E., and the small one of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, where
+we lay, to the N.
+
+Tareinska harbour is about three miles in breadth, and twelve in length; it
+stretches to the E.S.E., and is separated from the sea, at the bottom, by a
+narrow neck of land. The road into this harbour is perfectly free from
+rocks or shoals. We had never less than seven fathoms water, as far as our
+survey extended; for we were not able to get to the bottom of the harbour
+on account of the ice.
+
+The harbour of Rakoweena would deserve the preference over the other two,
+if its entrance were not impeded by a shoal lying in the middle of the
+channel; which, in general, will make it necessary to warp in, unless there
+be a leading wind. It is from one mile to half a mile in width, and three
+miles long, running at first in a S.E., and afterward in an easterly
+direction. Its depth is from thirteen to three fathoms.
+
+Saint Peter and Saint Paul's is one of the most convenient little harbours
+I ever saw. It will hold conveniently half a dozen ships, moored head and
+stern; and is fit for giving them any kind of repairs. The south side is
+formed by a low sandy neck, exceedingly narrow, on which the _ostrog_ is
+built; and whose point may almost be touched by ships going in, having
+three fathoms water close in with it. In the mid channel, which is no more
+than two hundred and seventy-eight feet across, there are six fathoms and a
+half; the deepest water within is seven fathoms; and in every part over a
+muddy bottom. We found some inconvenience from the toughness of the ground,
+which constantly broke the messenger, and gave us a great deal of trouble
+in getting up the anchors. There is a watering-place at the head of the
+harbour.
+
+The plan we drew points out the shoal to be avoided, lying off the eastern
+harbour, as well as the spit within the entrance, stretching from the S.W.
+shore, and over which there are only three fathoms water. In order to steer
+clear of the latter, a small island, or perhaps it may rather be called a
+large detached rock, lying on the west shore of the entrance, is to be shut
+in with the land to the south of it; and to steer clear of the former, the
+Three Needle Rocks, which lie on the east shore of the entrance near the
+light-house head, are to be kept open with the head-lands (or bluff-heads)
+that rise to the northward of the first small bay, or bending, observable
+on the east side of the entrance. When arrived to the north of the north
+head-land of the eastern harbour, the shoal is past.
+
+In sailing into the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, and approaching
+the village, it is necessary to keep in close to the eastern shore, in
+order to avoid a spit which runs from the head-land to the S.W. of the
+town.[41]
+
+Before I proceed to give a table of the result of our astronomical
+observations at this place, it may be proper to acquaint the reader, that
+the time-keeper we had on board the Resolution, which was an exact copy of
+that invented by Mr Harrison, and executed by Mr Kendal, stopped on the
+27th of April, a few days before we first came into Awatska Bay. It had
+been always kept with the most scrupulous care during the voyage, having
+never been trusted for a moment into any other hands than those of Captain
+Cook and mine. No accident could therefore have happened to it, to which we
+could attribute its stopping; nor could it have arisen from the effects of
+intense cold, as the thermometer was very little below the freezing point.
+As soon as the discovery was made, I consulted with Captain Clerke what
+course it was best to pursue; whether to let it remain as it was, entirely
+useless to us, for the purpose of satisfying the curious at home, where it
+was sure of being examined by proper judges, or suffer it to be inspected
+by a seaman on board, who had served a regular apprenticeship to a
+watchmaker in London, and appeared sufficiently knowing in the business,
+from his success in cleaning and repairing several watches since we had
+been out. The advantages we had derived from its accuracy, made us
+extremely unwilling to be deprived of its use during the remaining part of
+the voyage; and that object appeared to us to be of much greater importance
+than the small degree of probability, which we understood was all that
+could be expected, of obtaining any material knowledge respecting its
+mechanism, by deferring the inspection of it. At the same time, it should
+be remembered, that the watch had already a sufficient trial, both in the
+former voyage and during the three years we had now had it on board to
+ascertain its utility. On these considerations, we took the opportunity of
+the first clear day, after our arrival in Awatska Bay, of opening the
+watch, which was done in the captain's cabin, and in our presence. The
+watchmaker found no part of the work broken; but not being able to set it
+a-going, he proceeded to take off the cock and balance, and cleaned both
+the pivot-holes, which he found very foul, and the rest of the work rather
+dirty; he also took off the dial-plate; and, between two teeth of the wheel
+that carries the second-hand, found a piece of dirt, which he imagined to
+be the principal cause of its stopping. Having afterward put the work
+together, and oiled it as sparingly as possible, the watch appeared to go
+free and well.
+
+Having received orders the next day to go to Bolcheretsk, the time-keeper
+was left in the care of Mr Bayley, to compare it with his watch and clock,
+in order to get its rate. On my return, I was told it had gone for some
+days with tolerable regularity, losing only from fifteen to seventeen
+seconds a-day, when it stopped a second time. It was again opened, and the
+cause of its stopping appeared to be owing to the man having put some part
+of the work badly together when he first opened it. Being again adjusted,
+it was found to gain above a minute a-day; and, in the attempt to alter the
+regulator and balance-spring, he broke the latter. He afterward made a new
+spring; but the watch now went so irregularly, that we made no farther use
+of it. The poor fellow was not less chagrined than we were at our bad
+success; which, however, I am convinced, was more owing to the miserable
+tools he was obliged to work with, and the stiffness his hands had
+contracted from his ordinary occupation, than to his want of skill.
+
+For the satisfaction of those who may wish to have a general view of its
+rate of going, I have added the following table.
+
+The first and second columns contain the dates when, and the names of the
+places where its rate was observed. The third column contains the daily
+error of its rate, so found from mean time. The fourth column has the
+longitude of each place, according to the Greenwich rate; that is,
+calculated on a supposition that the time-keeper had not varied its rate
+from the time it left Greenwich. But as we had frequent opportunities of
+ascertaining the variation of its daily error, or finding its new rate, the
+fifth column has the longitude according to its last rate, calculated from
+the true longitude of the place last departed from. The sixth is the true
+longitude of the place deduced from astronomical observations made by
+ourselves, and compared with those made by others, whenever such could be
+obtained. The seventh column shews the difference between the fourth column
+and the sixth in space; and the eighth the same difference in time. The
+ninth shews the number of months and days in which the error, thus
+determined, had been accumulating. The difference between the fifth and
+sixth columns is found in the tenth, and shews the error of the time-
+keeper, according to its rate last found, in space; and the eleventh the
+same error in time. The twelfth contains the time elapsed in sailing from
+the place where the rate was last taken, to the place whose longitude is
+last determined. The thirteenth and fourteenth contain the state of the air
+at the time of each observation.
+
+As persons, unaccustomed to calculations of this sort, may find some
+difficulty in comprehending the nature of the table, the two following
+instances will more clearly explain it.
+
+Thus, on the 24th October, 1776, (first column,) at the Cape of Good Hope
+(second column,) we found the daily error, in the rate of its going, to be
+2",26 (third column.) The longitude of that place, calculated on a
+supposition that the rate of the time-keeper had continued the same from
+the time of our leaving Greenwich, that is, had a regular daily error of
+1",21, is found to be 18° 26' 30" east (fourth column.) And as its rate at
+Greenwich is, in this instance, its latest rate, the longitude thus found
+is the same (fifth column.) The true longitude of the place is 18° 23' 15"
+(sixth column.) From whence it appears, that in our run from Greenwich to
+the Cape, the watch would have led us into an error only of 3' 15" (seventh
+column,) or three miles one quarter; or had varied 13" of time (eighth
+column,) in four months twenty-three days (ninth column,) the period
+between our leaving Greenwich and our arrival at the Cape. As the Greenwich
+is the latest error, the tenth, eleventh, and twelfth columns, will be the
+same with the seventh and ninth.
+
+But, on the 23d of February, 1777, (first column,) at Queen Charlotte's
+Sound, New Zealand, (second column,) the daily error of its rate was found
+to be 2",91, (third column.) The longitude of this place, according to the
+Greenwich rate, is 175° 25', (fourth column.) But having found at the Cape,
+that it had altered its rate from a daily error of 1",21, to 2",26, the
+longitude corrected by this new rate is found to be 174° 44' 23", (fifth
+column.) The true longitude of the place being 174° 23' 31", (sixth
+column;) it appears that, in our run from Greenwich to New Zealand, the
+error would have been only 1° 1' 29", (seventh column,) or sixty-one miles
+and a half, even if we had not had an opportunity of correcting its daily
+error; or, in other words, that the watch had varied 4' 5",3, (eighth
+column,) in nine months four days, (ninth column.) But the longitude, as
+given by its new rate, leaves an error of only 30' 54", (tenth column,)
+near thirty-one miles, or, in time, 2' 3",6, (eleventh column,) which has
+been accumulating during our run from the Cape to New Zealand, or in four
+months nine days, (twelfth column.) The thirteenth and fourteenth columns
+require no explanation.
+
+
+TABLE of the Rate and Error of Mr Kendall's Watch on Board the Resolution.
+
+
+   I.  |       II.     |  III.  |   IV.    |   V.    |    VI.   |
+-------|---------------|--------|-------------------------------|
+       |               |        |          |         |          |
+       |               |Error of|Longitude |Longitude|True      |
+ TIME. |      PLACE.   | Daily  |by Green- |   by    |Longitude.|
+       |               | Rate.  |wich Rate.|New Rate.|          |
+       |               |        |          |         |          |
+       |               |        |          |         |          |
+-------|---------------|--------|----------|---------|----------|
+       |               |   "    |  °  '  " |  ° '  " |  °  '  " |
+ 1776. |               |--------|----------|---------|----------|
+June 11|Greenwich      |-1,21   |  0  0 0E |  0  0 0E|  0  0 0E |
+Oct. 24|Cape of Good   |-2,26   | 18 26 30 | 18 26 30| 18 23 15 |
+       | Hope          |        |          |         |          |
+ 1777. |               |        |          |         |          |
+Feb. 22|Queen Char-    |        |          |         |          |
+       | lotte's Sound,|-2,91   |175 25  0 |174 54 25|174 23 31 |
+       | New Zealand   |        |          |         |          |
+May   7|Anamooka       |+0,52   |186 13 26 |186 13 15|185 11 18 |
+June  7|Anamooka       |-0,54   |186  8 28 |186 12 43|185 11 18 |
+July  1|Tongataboo     |-1,78   |185 48 50 |184 53  0|184 55 18 |
+Sept. 1|Otaheite       |-1,54   |211 41 26 |210 39  8|210 22 28 |
+Oct. 17|Huaheine       |-2,30   |210 14 52 |208 50 24|208 52 24 |
+Nov.  7|Ulietea        |-1,52   |209 42 54 |208 25 22|208 25 22 |
+ 1778. |               |        |          |         |          |
+Apr. 16|Nootka         |-7,0    |235 32 45 |233 56  0|233 17  8 |
+Oct. 14|Samganoodha    |-8,8    |197 44 15 |193 12 35|193 31 20 |
+ 1779. |               |        |          |         |          |
+Feb.  2|Owhyhee        |-9,6    |214  7 35 |203 37 22|204  0  0 |
+May   1|Saint Peter and|  T.K.  |          |         |          |
+       | Saint Paul,   | stopt. |173 86  0 |159 20  0|158 43 16 |
+       | Kamtschatka   |        |          |         |          |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------
+
+
+|   VII.  |  VIII.   | IX.  |   X.    |   XI.   | XII. |XIII.    |   XIV.|
+|-----------------------------------------------|------|---------|-------|
+|Accumulated Error by|      |Error by New Rate. |      |Thermo-  |  B    |
+|  Greenwich Rate.   |Length|                   |Length| meter.  |  a    |
+|--------------------|  of  |-------------------|  of  |---------|  r    |
+|         |          | Time.|         |         | Time.|         |  o    |
+|   In    |  In      |      |  In     |  In     |      |Gr. Least|  m    |
+|  Space. | Time.    |      | Space.  | Time.   |      | Height. |  e    |
+|---------|----------|------|---------|---------|------|---------|  t    |
+| °   '  "|H. '  "   |Mo Da |  °  '  "| H '  "  | Mo Da|    |    |  er.  |
+|---------|----------|------|---------|---------|------|----|----|-------|
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+|+ 0  3 15|0  0 13,0 | 4 23 |+ 0  3 15|0  0 13,0| 4  23|  84|  63|  30, 0|
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+|  1  1 29|0  4  5,9 | 9  4 |+ 0 30 54|0  2  3,6| 4   9|  73|  53|  30, 0|
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+|  1  2  8|0  4  8,5 |11 22 |+ 1  1 57|0  4  7,8| 2  18|  83|  74|  30, 1|
+|  0 57 10|0  3 48,6 |12 25 |+ 1  1 25|0  4  5,6| 1   3|  79|  73|  30,15|
+|  0 53 32|0  3 34,1 |13 21 |- 0  2 18|0  0  9,2| 0  24|  85|  69|  30,15|
+|  1 18 58|0  5 15,8 |15 27 |+ 0 16 40|0  1  6,6| 2   6|  90|  70|  30, 1|
+|  1 22 28|0  5 29,8 |17 17 |- 0  2  0|0  0  8,0| 1  18|  90|  72|  29, 9|
+|  1 17 32|0  5 10,1 |18 10 |  0  0  0|0  0  0,0| 0  21|  92|  70|  29, 7|
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+|  2 15 27|0  9  1,8 |24  2 |+ 0 28 42|0  2 34,8| 5  20|  65|  41|  30, 0|
+|  4 12 55|0 16 51,6 |30 15 |- 0 18 45|0  1 15,0| 6  13|  57|  36|  20,15|
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+| 10  7 35|0 40 30,3 |34 14 |- 0 22 38|0  1 30,5| 3  27|  88|  70|  29, 8|
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+| 14 52 44|0 59 30,9 |37 18 |- 0 36 44|0  2 16,9| 3   4|    |    |       |
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------
+
+
+From this view of the time-keeper it appears, that for near two years it
+altered its rate very inconsiderably, and therefore that its error,
+according to the Greenwich rate, if we had had no opportunities of
+correcting it, amounted only to 2-1/4°. That afterward, at King George's
+Sound, or Nootka, it was found to have varied exceedingly; of course, the
+longitude, by its Greenwich rate, was becoming considerably erroneous.
+About this time, it should be remarked, the thermometer was varying from
+65° to 41°. The greatest alteration we ever observed in the watch was,
+during the three weeks we were cruising to the N.; in which interval, it
+gave the longitude of the East Cape with a difference of twenty-eight
+miles, I have marked the longitude of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, as given
+by the time-keeper, notwithstanding it stopped a few days before we arrived
+there; this I was enabled to do, from comparing the longitude it gave the
+day before it stopped, with that given by Mr Bayley's watch, and allowing
+for the error of the latter.
+
+The use of so accurate a measure of time is sufficiently evident, from its
+furnishing in itself the means of approximating to the longitude at sea, as
+may be seen in the above table. But, besides this, we were enabled, by the
+same means, to give a degree of accuracy to the lunar observations, which
+they cannot otherwise pretend to; and, at the same time, by reducing a
+number of those observations to one time, obtain results approaching still
+nearer to the truth. In surveying coasts, and ascertaining the true
+position of capes and head-lands, it reaches the utmost degree of practical
+exactness. On the other hand, it is to be observed, that lunar
+observations, in their turn, are absolutely necessary, in order to reap the
+greatest possible advantages from the time-keeper; since, by ascertaining
+the true longitude of places, they discover the error of its rate. The
+original observations that were made in the course of this voyage, have
+been published by order of the Board of Longitude, and to those I must
+refer the reader, for his further information on this subject.
+
+N.B. The observatories were placed on the west side of the village of Saint
+Peter and Saint Paul.
+
+
+Latitude deduced from meridian zenith
+  distances of the sun, and of five stars
+  to the S., and five to the N. of the
+  zenith                                     53°  0' 38" N.
+Longitude deduced from one hundred
+  and forty-six sets of lunar observations  158  43  16  E.
+Longitudy by time-keeper, according to
+  its Greenwich rate                        173  36   0
+Longitude by time-keeper, according to
+  its rate found at Owhyhee                 159  20   0
+Variation of the compass, by azimuths
+  taken with three compasses, made by
+  Knight, Gregory, and Martin                 6  18  40  E.
+Dip of the North Pole of the magnetic
+  needle, being a mean of the observations
+  taken in June and September                63   5   0
+
+
+It was high water, on the full and change of the moon, at thirty-six
+minutes past four, and the greatest rise was five feet eight inches. The
+tides were very regular every twelve hours. On the coast, near the bay, the
+flood came from the S., and the time of high water was near two hours
+sooner than in the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul.
+
+
+
+[35] See all that is known of this voyage, and a chart of discoveries, in
+    Mr Coxe's Account of Russian-Discoveries between Asia and America. We
+    were not able to learn from the Russians in Kamtschatka, a more
+    perfect account of Synd than we now find is given by Mr Coxe; and yet
+    they seemed disposed to communicate all that they really knew. Major
+    Behm could only inform us, in general, that the expedition had
+    miscarried as to its object, and that the commander had fallen under
+    much blame. It appeared evidently that he had been on the coast of
+    America, to the southward of Cape Prince of Wales, between the
+    latitudes 64° and 65° and it is most probable that his having got too
+    far to the northward to meet with sea-otters, which the Russians, in
+    all their attempts at discoveries, seem to have principally, in view,
+    and his returning without having made any that promised commercial
+    advantages, was the cause of his disgrace, and of the great contempt
+    with which the Russians always spoke of this officer's voyage.
+
+    The cluster of islands placed in Synd's chart, between the latitudes
+    of 61° and 65°, is undoubtedly the same with the island called by
+    Beering St Laurence's, and those we named Clerke's, Anderson's, and
+    King's Islands; but their proportionate size, and relative situation,
+    are exceedingly erroneous.
+
+[36] By some strange anomaly in human nature, it would seem as if, in many
+    cases, the apprehension of danger is in the inverse proportion of the
+    amount of evil to be dreaded, or of the probability of its happening.
+    Thus, the good people at Saint Peter and Saint Paul, who have but very
+    little more reason to expect the intrusion of enemies, than if they
+    dwelt in the regions of the North Pole, exhibit a remarkable degree of
+    unnecessary suspicion on the occurrence of the most harmless, nay the
+    most beneficial events. In addition to what is recorded in this
+    voyage, we may mention an evidence of it in the case of Captain
+    Krusenstern's last arrival among them, which happened sooner than they
+    had looked for, notwithstanding his having previously intimated it. On
+    the appearance of his vessel, the people immediately concluded it was
+    an enemy, and some families began to fly with their effects to the
+    neighbouring mountains. To them it seemed more natural, that some
+    hostile power should send a vessel half round the globe in order to
+    conquer a miserable spot, whose only riches was a few dried fish, and
+    where a crew could scarcely subsist for two months, than that the ship
+    in sight should belong to a friend whose arrival they had been
+    instructed to expect. Nor were their fears quieted, till the solemn
+    and strongly urged opinion of the soldier on duty, who, from his
+    having been a companion of Captain Billing's, had the reputation of
+    much knowledge in such matters, induced them to believe, that the form
+    and rigging of the ship could be no other than those of their old
+    acquaintance the Nadeshda!--E.
+
+[37] The singular personage here spoken of, was living near Saint Peter and
+    Saint Paul in 1805, when Captain Krusenstern arrived there. He was at
+    that time eighty-six years old, and had but lately obtained his
+    liberty from the present emperor, who, besides other bounty, granted
+    him a sum of money to cover his travelling expenses, if he chose to
+    return to St Petersburg. The old man, however, was unable to bring his
+    mind to undertake the journey, or even to venture the sea with
+    Krusenstern; and in all probability, therefore, would end his days in
+    the land of his captivity. We learn from the same authority, that
+    Iwashkin had been banished in consequence of a report, apparently an
+    unfounded one, that he had been engaged in a conspiracy against the
+    Empress Elizabeth; and he is said to have been afterwards refused a
+    pardon by Catharine, because he had been accused of murdering a man in
+    the heat of passion. But for this circumstance, according to K., "the
+    terms in which he is mentioned in Cook's voyage are such, as would not
+    fail to meet with attention in Russia." These few additional
+    particulars may add to whatever of interest is felt in Captain Kind's
+    account of this exile. And even this may be enhanced to the
+    susceptible mind by the remark, that old and worn out as Iwashkin
+    appeared to Captain King, he nevertheless survived him at least twenty
+    years, as the latter died at Nice, in Italy, in 1784.--E.
+
+[38] It may not be ill-timed to mention here, what Captain Krusenstern says
+    as to the scarcity of gunpowder in Kamtschatka, to which Captain King
+    alludes in his account of bear-hunting. It is owing to the deficiency
+    of this article, that the inhabitants are so seldom provided with
+    certain luxuries of the table, as the wild sheep, or _argalis_, rein-
+    deer, hares, ducks, and geese, with most or all of which the country
+    is tolerably well stocked. The conveyance of this most useful material
+    from the provinces of European Russia, is both difficult and exposed
+    to different accidents; such as getting wet, or, what is still worse,
+    taking fire; in consequence of which latter occurrence, it is said,
+    whole villages have been destroyed. To prevent this mischief, as much
+    as possible, we are informed, that gunpowder is now forbidden to be
+    brought for private sale. This prohibition, as is usual in all such
+    cases, is often evaded, and, by augmenting the price of the article,
+    of course excites the stronger disposition on the part of the merchant
+    to introduce it. The Kamtschadale, therefore, purchases powder
+    secretly, and at a very high price; he uses it sparingly, and that
+    only for defence against bears; or to kill some animal, whose skin he
+    knows will repay the cost of getting it. As, in many respects, it is
+    an article of indispensable necessity, and as therefore the people
+    must have it in some way or other, Captain Krusenstern recommends,
+    that, with many other commodities, it should be sent from
+    Cronstadt.--E.
+
+[39] The reader will probably not dislike to see another instance of the
+    bear's cunning, in the mode of catching a peculiar sort of fish called
+    _kachly_, which abounds in Kamtschatka, and of which he is exceedingly
+    fond. We are told by Krusenstern, that as soon as this animal
+    perceives the shoals of _kachly_ going up the river, he places himself
+    in the water, within a short distance of the bank, and in such a
+    position of his legs, as that the fish, which always goes straight
+    forward, may have just space enough to pass between them. He then
+    watches his opportunity, when a good many have entered the snare, to
+    press his legs together, so as to inclose his prey, with which, at one
+    spring, he jumps on shore, where he devours them at his leisure. This
+    practice is much to be commended for the spirit of independence it
+    indicates; but not so another one, which some authors have charged
+    against these sagacious animals, viz. dragging the fishermen's nets
+    out of the water, during their absence, and then robbing them of the
+    fish they contained. Mr Bingley's Animal Biography, where this piece
+    of pilfering is mentioned, may be advantageously consulted for several
+    amusing notices respecting the habits and capabilities of this
+    creature, which are quite in unison with Captain King's account.--E.
+
+[40] The interest of the following passage, from the account of
+    Krusenstern's voyage, will form the only apology necessary for the
+    largeness of the space it occupies. "As it was evident, upon our
+    arrival, that the many things necessary to be done on board, would
+    occupy a space of not less than four or five weeks, the officers of
+    the ship had formed a plan of renewing the monument which had been
+    erected to Captain Clerke. From Cook's and La Perouse's voyage, it is
+    well known that Clerke was buried in the town of Saint Peter and St
+    Saint Paul, under a large tree, to which a board, with an inscription,
+    was affixed, mentioning his death, his age and rank, and the object of
+    the expedition, in which he lost his life. We found the escutcheon,
+    painted by Webber, the draughtsman of the Resolution, and suspended by
+    Captain King in the church at Paratunka, in the portico of Major
+    Krupskoy's house, nor did any one appear to know what connection it
+    had with this painted board; and as there has been no church for many
+    years either in Paratunka or Saint Peter and Saint Paul, it was very
+    fortunate that the escutcheon was not entirely lost. La Perouse,
+    finding the board on the tree rotting very fast, had the inscription
+    copied on a plate of copper, adding, that it had been restored by him;
+    and as this inscription is not given in Cook's voyage, and every thing
+    relative to him and his companion must be interesting to all, I cannot
+    avoid transcribing it here from La Perouse's copy.
+
+    "At The Root Of This Tree Lies The Body Of
+               Captain Charles Clerke,
+    Who Succeeded To The Command Of His Britannic
+          Majesty's Ships, The Resolution And
+    Discovery, On The Death Of Captain James Cook, Who
+         Was Unfortunately Killed By The Natives
+              At An Island In The South Sea
+      On The 14TH Of February In The Year 1779,
+    And Died At Sea Of A Lingering Consumption The
+          22ND August In The Same Year, Aged 38.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+    "Copié sur l'inscription Angloise par ordre de M^r le C^{te} de la
+    Perouse chef d'Escadre, en 1787.
+
+    "This plate La Perouse caused to be nailed on the wooden monument. We
+    found it there, although it had more than once been removed. The
+    monument itself, however, appeared to promise but short duration; for
+    the tree, which was more than half decayed, could not stand above a
+    few years longer, and it was become necessary to raise a more durable
+    one to Cook's companion. We also found the coffin, containing the
+    remains of De Lisle de la Croyère, as we were digging up the ground, a
+    few paces from Clerke's tomb, after having long sought for it in vain.
+    La Perouse had erected a monument to him also; and, upon a copper-
+    plate, had engraved an inscription, containing a few of the
+    particulars of his life. Of this there was not the least vestige
+    remaining, though no longer space than eighteen years had since
+    elapsed. The _memento_ of these two persons, equally skilled in the
+    science of navigation, and who had both lost their lives in one of the
+    most inhospitable quarters of the globe, could now be united in one
+    monument; and, for this purpose, a durable pedestal of wood was
+    erected as near as possible to the old tree, in order still to
+    preserve the locality; and over this a pyramid; on one side of which,
+    the plate, which La Perouse had engraved, was fastened; and on the
+    opposite side, a copy of Captain Clerke's escutcheon, made for the
+    occasion by M. Tilesius. On the other two sides were the following
+    inscriptions, in Russian: 'In the first voyage round the world,
+    undertaken by the Russians, under the command of Captain Krusenstern,
+    the officers of the ship Nadeshda erected this monument to the memory
+    of the English captain, Clerke, on the 15th September 1805.'
+
+    "And on the side facing the south: 'Here rest the ashes of De Lisle de
+    la Croyère, the astronomer attached to the expedition commanded by
+    Commodore Behring, in the year 1741.'
+
+    "This monument was constructed under the direction of Lieutenant
+    Ratmanoff; and his anxiety to complete it previous to our departure,
+    made him overcome every difficulty in the way of such an undertaking
+    in Kamtschatka. It would have been an injustice in me not to have
+    supported and contributed by all the means in my power to its
+    completion; and as I gave them not only workmen, but also such
+    materials as we had on board the ship, we had the satisfaction of
+    seeing it entirely completed previous to our departure. A deep ditch
+    surrounded the whole; and, in order to screen it against any
+    accidental injury, it was inclosed in a high paling, the door of which
+    was to be kept constantly locked, and the key to remain in the hands
+    of the governor of Saint Peter and Saint Paul."
+
+    Every heart that is capable of humane emotions will respect this
+    labour infinitely beyond either the magnitude or the importance of its
+    effects, and will gladly applaud the virtuous sentiment that prompts
+    generous minds, in defiance of the narrow and perishable distinction
+    of name and nation, to reverence the kindred excellence and the common
+    lot of their fellow creatures.--E.
+
+[41] Every reader will be pleased to learn, that Krusenstern bears ample
+    testimony to the general accuracy of Captain King's drawings and
+    descriptions of the bay, &c. This intimation is probably sufficient
+    for most persons, without any special exemplification of the
+    coincidences betwixt these two writers.--F.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION VI.
+
+
+General Account of Kamtschatka.--Geographical Description.--Rivers.--
+Soil.--Climate.--Volcanoes.--Hot Springs.--Productions.--Vegetables.--
+Animals.--Birds.--Fish.[42]
+
+
+Kamtschatka is the name of a peninsula situated on the eastern coast of
+Asia, running nearly N. and S., from 52° to 6l° N. latitude; the longitude
+of its southern extremity being 156° 45' E. The isthmus, which joins it to
+the continent on the N., lies between the Gulf of Olutorsk and the Gulf of
+Penshinsk. Its southern extremity is Cape Lopatka, a word signifying the
+blade bone of a man, and is so called from its supposed resemblance to it.
+The shape of the whole peninsula is not unlike that of a shoe, widening
+from the toe (which we may suppose to be Cape Lopatka) toward the middle,
+and narrowing again toward the heel, the neck of land above mentioned
+connecting it with the continent. Its greatest breadth is from the mouth of
+the river Tigil to that of Kamtschatka, and is computed to be two hundred
+and thirty-six miles, from whence it narrows very gradually toward each
+extremity.
+
+It is bounded on the N. by the country of the Koriacks; to the S. and E.,
+by the North Pacific Ocean; and to the W., by the sea of Okotzk. A chain of
+high mountains stretches the whole length of the country, from N. to S.,
+dividing it nearly into two equal parts, from whence a great number of
+rivers take their rise, and empty themselves, on each side, into the
+Pacific Ocean and the sea of Okotzk.
+
+There are three rivers of much greater magnitude than the rest; the
+Bolchoireka, or great river, so called from bolchoia, which signifies
+great, and reka, a river; the river Kamtschatka, and the Awatska. The first
+empties itself into the sea of Okotzk, and is navigable for the Russian
+galliots upwards of five leagues from its mouth, or within nine miles of
+Bolcheretsk, a town situated at the conflux of the Goltsoffka and the
+Bistraia, which here lose themselves in the Bolchoireka. The Bistraia
+itself is no inconsiderable river. It derives its source from the same
+mountain with the river Kamtschatka, and, by taking a direct contrary
+course, affords the Kamtschadales the means of transporting their goods by
+water in small canoes, almost across the whole peninsula. The river
+Kamtschatka, after maintaining a course of near three hundred miles from S.
+to N.. winds round to the eastward; in which direction it empties itself
+into the ocean, a little to the southward of Kamtschatkoi Noss. Near the
+mouth of the Kamtschatka to the N.W., lies the great lake called Nerpitsch,
+from nerpi, a Kamtschadale word, signifying a seal, with which this lake
+abounds. About twenty miles up the river, reckoning from the mouth of the
+lake, is a fort called Nishnei Kamtschatka ostrog, where the Russians have
+built an hospital and barracks; and which, we were informed, is become the
+principal mart in this country.
+
+The river Awatska rises from the mountains situated between the Bolchoireka
+and the Bistraia, and running, from N.W. to S.E., a course of one hundred
+miles, falls into the bay of Awatska. The Tigil is likewise a river of
+considerable size, rising amidst some very high mountains, which lie under
+the same parallel with Kamtschatkoi Noss, and running in an even course
+from S.E. to N.W., falls into the sea at Okotzk. All the other rivers of
+this peninsula, which are almost infinite in number, are too small to
+deserve a particular enumeration.
+
+If I may judge of the soil, from what I saw of its vegetable productions, I
+should not hesitate in pronouncing it barren in the extreme. Neither in the
+neighbourhood of the bay, nor in the country I traversed on my journey to
+Bolcheretsk, nor in any of our hunting expeditions, did I ever meet with
+the smallest spot of ground that resembled what in England is called a good
+green turf; or that seemed as if it could be turned to any advantage,
+either in the way of pasturage, or other mode of cultivation. The face of
+the country in general was thinly covered with stunted trees, having a
+bottom of moss, mixed, with low weak heath. The whole bore a more striking
+resemblance to Newfoundland, than to any other part of the world I had ever
+seen.
+
+It must however be observed, that I saw at Paratounca three or four stacks
+of sweet and very fine-looking hay; and Major Behm informed me, that many
+parts of the peninsula, particularly the banks of the river Kamtschatka and
+the Bistraia, produce grass of great height and strength, which they cut
+twice in the summer; and that the hay is of a succulent quality, and
+particularly well adapted to the fattening of cattle. Indeed it should
+appear, from the size and fatness of the thirty-six head that were sent
+down to us from the Verchnei ostrog, and which, we were told, were bred and
+fattened in the neighbourhood, that they must have had the advantage of
+both good pastures and meadows. For it is worth our notice, that the first
+supply we received, consisting of twenty, came to us just at the close of
+the winter, and before the snow was off the ground, and therefore probably
+had tasted nothing but hay for the seven preceding months. And this agrees
+with what is related by Krascheninnikoff, that there is no part of the
+country equal in fertility to that which borders on the river Kamtschatka;
+and that to the N. and S. it is much inferior both in point of soil and
+climate. He relates, that repeated experiments have been made in the
+culture of oats, barley, and rye, in different quarters near this river,
+which have generally succeeded; that, in particular, some persons belonging
+to the convent of Jakutzk, who had settled in that part of the country, had
+sown barley there, which had yielded an extraordinary increase; and he has
+no doubt but that wheat, in many parts, particularly near the source of the
+Bistraia and Kamtschatka, would grow as well as in the generality of
+countries situated in the same latitude. Perhaps the superior fertility of
+the country here spoken of, may, in a great measure, be accounted for, from
+its lying in that part of the peninsula which is by much the widest, and
+consequently farthest removed from the sea, on each side. The moist
+chilling fogs and drizzling weather which prevail almost perpetually along
+the coast, must necessarily render the parts adjacent very unfit for all
+the purposes of agriculture.[43]
+
+It is natural to suppose, that the severity of the climate must be in due
+proportion to the general sterility of the soil, of which it is probably
+the cause. The first time we saw this country was in the beginning of May,
+1779, when the whole face of it was covered with snow, from six to eight
+feet deep. On the 6th we had snow, with the wind from the N.E. On the 8th
+of May, at noon, the thermometer stood at 32°; and the same day some of our
+men were sent on shore to try to cut wood, but the snow was still so deep
+on the ground, as to render all their attempts fruitless. Nor was it found
+practicable to proceed in this necessary business, with all the efforts of
+a very stout party, till the 12th, at which time the thaw began to advance
+gradually. The sides of the hills were now in some places free from snow;
+and, by the beginning of June, it was generally melted from the low lands.
+On the 15th of June, the day we sailed out of the harbour, the thermometer
+had never risen higher than 58°, nor the barometer than 30° 04'. The winds
+blew almost invariably from the eastward during our stay, and the S.E. was
+more prevalent than any other.
+
+On our return, the 24th of August, the foliage of the trees, and all other
+sorts of vegetation, seemed to be in the utmost state of perfection. For
+the remainder of this month, and through September, the weather was very
+changeable, but in no respect severe. The winds at the beginning of the
+month were for the most part easterly, after which they got round to the W.
+The greatest height of the thermometer was 65°, the lowest 40°. The
+barometer's greatest height 30°, its lowest 29,3. So that upon the whole,
+during this month, an equal and moderate degree of temperature prevailed.
+But at the beginning of October, the tops of the hills were again covered
+with new-fallen snow, the wind continuing westerly.
+
+In computing the seasons, the spring ought certainly not to be taken into
+the account. From the middle of June to the middle of September, may be
+properly said to constitute the summer. October may be considered as an
+autumnal month; from thence, to the middle of June, it is perfect winter.
+It was toward the end of May that we made our journey between Bolcheretsk
+and Awatska, over the snow in sledges.
+
+It is said, that the climate in the country adjoining to the river
+Kamtschatka, is not less serene and temperate, than in many parts of
+Siberia that are under the same latitude. This variation is probably owing
+to the same causes, to which the superior fertility of the soil in those
+parts has been before attributed. But it is not in the sterility of the
+ground alone, that the Kamtschadales feel the unfavourable temperature of
+their climate. The uncertainty of the summer season sometimes prevents
+their laying up a sufficient stock of dried fish for their winter's
+provision, and the moisture of the air causes worms to breed in them, which
+not unfrequently destroy the greatest part.
+
+I do not remember that we had either thunder or lightning during our stay,
+excepting on the night of the eruption of the volcano; and, from the
+account of the inhabitants, they are very seldom troubled with storms of
+this kind, and never but in a slight degree. The general severity of the
+winter, as well as the dreadful hurricanes of wind and snow that season
+brings along with it, cannot be questioned, from the subterraneous
+habitations the natives are under a necessity of retiring to, for warmth
+and security. Major Behm told us, that the cold and inclemency of the
+winter of 1779 was such, that for several weeks all intercourse between the
+inhabitants was entirely stopped, every one being afraid to stir even from
+one house to another, for fear of being frost-bitten. This extraordinary
+rigour of climate, in so low a latitude, may be accounted for from its
+being situated to the east of an immense uncultivated tract of country, and
+from the prevalence of the westerly winds, blowing over so extensive and
+cold a continent. The extraordinary violence and impetuosity of the winds
+is attributed to the subterraneous fires, the sulphureous exhalations, and
+the general volcanic disposition of the country.
+
+This peninsula abounds in volcanos, of which only three have, for some time
+past, been subject to eruptions. We have already mentioned that which is
+situated in the neighbourhood of Awatska. Besides this, there are others
+not less remarkable, according to the account given of them by
+Krascheninnikoff.
+
+The volcano of Tolbatchick is situated on a neck of ground between the
+river of Kamtschatka and Tolbatchick. The mountain, from the summit of
+which, the eruptions proceed, is of a considerable height, and terminated
+in pointed rocks. In the beginning of the year 1739, there issued from it a
+whirlwind of flames, which reduced to ashes the forests of the neighbouring
+mountains. This was succeeded by a cloud of smoke, which spread over and
+darkened the whole country, till it was dissipated by a shower of cinders,
+that covered the ground to the distance of thirty miles. Mr
+Krascheninnikoff, who was at this time on a journey from Bolchoireka to the
+Kamtschatka ostrog, at no great distance from the mountain, relates that
+the eruption was preceded by an alarming sound in the woods, which he
+thought the forerunner of some dreadful storm or hurricane, till three
+shocks of an earthquake, at about a minute's interval of each, convinced
+him of its real cause; but that he was hindered from approaching nearer the
+mountain, by the cinders that fell, and prevented him from proceeding on
+his journey.
+
+The third volcano is on the top of the mountain of Kamtschatka, which is
+mentioned as by far the highest in the peninsula. A thick smoke never
+ceases to ascend from its summit, and it has frequent eruptions, of the
+most violent and dreadful kind; some of which were much talked of, and
+seemed to be fresh in the memories of the Kamtschadales.
+
+The country is likewise said to contain numerous springs of hot water. The
+only one that I had an opportunity of seeing was at Natcheekin ostrog, and
+hath been already described. Krascheninnikoff makes mention of several
+others, and also of two very extraordinary pits, or wells, at the bottom of
+which the water is seen to boil as in a cauldron, with prodigious force and
+impetuosity; at the same time a dreadful noise issues out of them, and so
+thick a vapour, that a man cannot see through it.
+
+Of the trees which fell under our notice, the principal are the birch, the
+poplar, the alder, (with the bark of which they stain their leather,) many
+species of the willow, but all small; and two kinds of dwarfish pines or
+cedars.[44] One of these grows upon the coast, creeping along the ground,
+and seldom exceeds two feet in height. It was of this sort we made our
+essence for beer, and found it excellent for the purpose. The other grows
+on the mountains, to a greater height, and bears a small nut, or apple. We
+were told by the old _Toion_ at Saint Peter and Saint Paul, that Beering,
+during the time he lay in that harbour, first taught them the use of the
+decoction of these pines, and that it proved a most excellent remedy for
+the scurvy; but, whether from the great scarcity of sugar, or from what
+other cause, we could not learn, we were sorry to find that it was no
+longer in use amongst them.
+
+The birch was by far the most common tree we saw; and of this we remarked
+three sorts. Two of them fit for timber, and differing only in the texture
+and colour of the bark; the third of a dwarfish kind. This tree is applied
+to a great variety of uses by the inhabitants. The liquor which, on
+tapping, it yields in great abundance, they drink without mixture, or any
+preparation, as we had frequent opportunities of observing upon our journey
+to Bolcheretsk; and found it ourselves pleasant and refreshing, but
+somewhat purgative. The bark they convert into vessels, for almost all
+their domestic and kitchen purposes; and it is of the wood of this tree the
+sledges and canoes are also made.[45]
+
+The birch, and every other kind of tree in the neighbourhood of the bay,
+were small and stunted; and they are obliged to go many miles up into the
+country, for wood of a proper size to work into canoes, for the principal
+timbers of their _balagans_, and the like uses.
+
+Besides the trees above-mentioned, Krascheninnikoff relates, that the larch
+grows on the banks of the river Kamtschatka, and of those that fall into
+it, but no where else; and that there are firs in the neighbourhood of the
+river Berezowa; that there is likewise the service-tree (_padus foliis
+annuis_;) and two species of the white thorn, one bearing a red, the other
+a black berry.
+
+Of the shrub kind, as junipers, the mountain-ash, wild rose-trees, and
+raspberry bushes, the country produces great abundance; together with a
+variety of berries; blue berries of two sorts, round and oval; partridge-
+berries, cranberries, crow-berries, and black-berries. These the natives
+gather at proper seasons, and preserve, by boiling them into a thick jam,
+without sugar. They make no inconsiderable part of their winter provisions,
+and are used as sauce to their dried and salt fish; of which kind of food
+they are unquestionably excellent correctives. They likewise eat them by
+themselves in puddings and various other ways, and make decoctions of them
+for their ordinary liquor.
+
+We met with several wholesome vegetables in a wild state, and in great
+quantities; such as wild celery, angelica, chervil, garlic, and onions.
+Upon some few patches of ground in the vallies, we found excellent turnips
+and turnip-radishes. Their garden cultivation went no farther; yet from
+hence I am led to conclude, that many of the hardy sorts of vegetables,
+(such at least as push their roots downward,) like as carrots; parsnips,
+and beet, and perhaps potatoes, would thrive tolerably well. Major Behm
+told me, that some other sorts of kitchen vegetables had been tried, but
+did not answer; that neither any of the cabbage or lettuce kind would ever
+head; and that peas and beans shot up very vigorous stalks, flowered and
+podded, but the pods never filled. He likewise told me, that in the
+experiments made by himself at Bolcheretsk, with different sorts of
+farinaceous grain, there generally came up a very high and strong blade,
+which eared, but that the ears never yielded flour.
+
+This short account of the vegetable production reaches to such parts of the
+country only as fell within our notice, In the neighbourhood of the
+Kamtschatka river, where (as has been observed) both the soil and climate
+are by much the best in the whole peninsula, garden culture is attended to,
+and probably with great success, as appears from our having received, at
+the same time with the second drove of cattle from Verchnei, a present of
+cucumbers, of very large fine turnips, celery, and some other garden-stuff,
+of which I do not recollect the kinds.
+
+There are two plants, which, from the great use made of them, merit a
+particular mention and description. The first is called by the natives
+_sarana_, and by botanists, _Lilium Kamtskatiense flore atro rubente_.[46]
+The stem is about the thickness of that of the tulip, and grows to the
+height of five inches, is of a purple colour toward the bottom, and green
+higher up, and hath growing from it two tier of leaves of an oval figure,
+the lowest consisting of three leaves, the uppermost of four, in the form
+of a cross; from the top of the stalk grows a single flower, of an
+exceedingly dark red colour, in shape resembling the flower, of the
+narcissus, only much smaller; from the centre of the flower rises a style
+of a triangular form, and obtuse at the end, which is surrounded by six
+white stamina, whose extremities are yellow. The root is of the bulbous
+kind, and resembles in shape that of garlic, being much of the same size,
+but rounder, and having, like that, four or five cloves hanging together.
+The plant grows wild, and in considerable abundance; the women are employed
+in collecting the roots at the beginning of August, which are afterward
+dried in the sun, and then laid up for use. On our second arrival, this
+harvest was just over, and had fallen much short of its usual produce. It
+is a common observation amongst the Kamtschadales, that the bounty of
+Providence never fails them, for that such seasons as are most hurtful to
+the _sarana_, are always the most favourable for fishing; and that, on the
+contrary, a bad fishing month is always made up by the exuberance of the
+_sarana_ harvest. It is used in cookery in various ways. When roasted in
+embers, it supplies the place of bread better than any thing the country
+affords. After being baked in an oven and pounded, it becomes an excellent
+substitute for flour and meal of every sort; and in this form is mixed in
+all their soups, and most of their other dishes. It is esteemed extremely
+nourishing, has a pleasant bitter taste, and may be eaten every day without
+cloying. We used to boil these roots, and eat them as potatoes, either
+alone, or with our meat, and found them very wholesome and pleasant. It has
+been already mentioned, that this useful plant grows also at Oonalashka,
+where the roots of it are used, and constitute a considerable part of their
+food, in like manner as in Kamtschatka.
+
+The other plant alluded to is called the sweet grass; the botanical
+description is _Heracleum Sibericum foliis pinnatis, foliolis quinis,
+intermediis sessilibus, corollulis uniformibus_. Hort. Upsal. 65. The time,
+I took particular notice of it, was in May, when it was about a foot and a
+half high, had much the appearance of sedge, and was covered with a white
+down, or dust, which looked exceedingly like the hoar frost hanging upon
+it, and might be rubbed off; it tasted as sweet as sugar; but was hot and
+pungent. The stalk is hollow, and consists of three or four joints; from
+each of which arise large leaves, and when at its full growth, is six feet
+high.
+
+This plant was formerly a principal ingredient in the cookery of most of
+the Kamtschadale dishes; but since the Russians got possession of the
+country, it has been almost entirely appropriated to the purpose of
+distillation. The manner in which it is gathered, prepared, and afterward
+distilled, is as follows:--Having cut such stalks as have leaves growing on
+them, of a proper age, (the principal stem, by the time the plant has
+attained its full growth, having become too dry for their purpose,) and
+scraped off with shells the downy substance on their surface, they are laid
+in small heaps, till they begin to sweat and smell. On growing dry again,
+they put them into sacks, made of matting; where, after remaining a few
+days, they are gradually covered with a sweet saccharine powder, which
+exudes from the hollow of the stalk. From thirty-six pounds of the plant in
+this state, they obtain no more than a quarter of a pound of powder. The
+women, whose province it is to collect and prepare the materials, are
+obliged to defend their hands with gloves whilst they are scraping the
+stalks; the rind they remove, being of so acrid a quality as to blister,
+and even ulcerate, whatever it touches.
+
+The spirit is drawn from the plant in this state by the following
+process:--After steeping bundles of it in hot water, they promote its
+fermentation in a small vessel, by the help of berries of the
+_gimolost_,[47] or of the _golubitsa_,[48] being careful to close up well
+the mouth of the vessel, and to keep it in a warm place whilst the
+fermentation is going on, which is generally so violent as to occasion a
+considerable noise, and to agitate the vessel in which it is contained.
+After drawing off this first liquor, they pour on more hot water, and make
+a second in the same manner. They then pour both liquor and herbs into a
+copper still, and draw off the spirit after the usual method. The liquor
+thus obtained is of the strength of brandy; and is called by the natives
+_raka_. Two pood (seventy-two pounds) of the plant yield generally one
+vedro (twenty-five pints) of _raka_.
+
+Steller says, that the spirit distilled from this plant, unscraped, is
+exceedingly prejudicial to the health, and produces the most sudden and
+terrible nervous effects.
+
+Besides these, Krascheninnikoff mentions a variety of other plants, from
+whence the inhabitants prepare several decoctions; and which, being mixed
+with their fish, make palatable and wholesome ragouts. Such as the
+_kipri_,[49] with which is brewed a pleasant common beverage; and, by
+boiling this plant and the sweet herb together, in the proportion of one to
+five of the latter, and fermenting the liquor in the ordinary way, is
+obtained a strong and excellent vinegar. The leaves of it are used instead
+of tea, and the pith is dried and mixed in many of their dishes; the
+_morkovai_,[50] which is very like angelica; the _kotkorica,[51] the root
+of which they eat indifferently, green or dried; the _ikoum_,[52] the
+_utchichlei_,[53] which is much eaten with fish; with many others.
+
+It is said, that the Kamtschadales (before their acquaintance with fire-
+arms) poisoned their spears and arrows with the juice of the root of the
+_zgate_;[54] and that wounds inflicted by them are equally destructive to
+land and marine animals. The Tschutski are reported to use the same drug
+for this purpose at present.
+
+I shall conclude this part of the natural history of Kamtschatka with an
+account, from the same author, of three plants, which furnish the materials
+of all their manufactures. The first is the _triticum radice perenni
+spiculis binis lanuginosis_,[55] which grows in abundance along the coast.
+Of the straw of this grass they make a strong sort of matting, which they
+use not only for their floors, but for sacks, bedclothes, curtains, and a
+variety of other domestic purposes. Of the same materials they also make
+very neat little bags and baskets, of different forms, and for various
+uses.
+
+The plant called _bolotnaia_, which grows in the marshes, and resembles
+_cyperoides_, is gathered in the autumn, and carded like wool, with a comb
+made of the bones of the sea-swallow; with this, in lieu of linen and
+woollen clothes, they swathe their new-born infants, and use it for a
+covering next the skin whilst they are young. It is also made into a kind
+of wadding, and used for the purpose of giving additional warmth to various
+parts of their clothing.
+
+There remains still a vulgar and well-known plant, which, as it contributes
+more effectually to their subsistence, than all the rest put together, must
+not be passed over in silence. This is the nettle, which, as the country
+produces neither, hemp nor flax, supplies the materials of which are made
+their fishing-nets, and without which they could not possibly subsist. For
+this purpose they cut it down in August; and, after hanging it up in
+bundles in the shade, under their _balagans_, the remainder of the summer,
+treat it like hemp. They then spin it into thread with their fingers, and
+twist it round a spindle; after which they twine several threads together,
+according to the different purposes for which It may be designed.
+
+Though there is little doubt but that many parts of this peninsula would
+admit of such cultivation as might contribute considerably to the comfort
+of the inhabitants, yet its real riches must always consist in the number
+of wild animals it produces; and no labour, can ever be turned to so good
+account as what is employed upon their furrieries. The animals therefore
+which supply these come next to be considered; and these are, the common
+fox, the stoat, or ermine, the zibeline, or sable, the isatis, or arctic
+fox, the varying hare, the mountain rat, or earless marmot, the weasel, the
+glutton, or wolverene, the argali, or wild sheep, rein-deer, bears, wolves,
+dogs.
+
+The fox[56] is the most general object of the chase; and they are found in
+great numbers, and of variety of colours. The most common is the same in
+species with the European, with this variation, that the colours are more
+bright and shining; some are of a dark chesnut, others are striped with
+dark-coloured bars, others have the belly black, and the rest of the body
+of a light chesnut. Some again are of a very dark brown, some black, others
+of a stone colour; and there are a few quite white, but these last are very
+scarce. Their fur is exceedingly thick and fine, and of a quality much
+superior to those either of Siberia or America. A variety of artifices are
+made use of by the hunters to catch this animal, which in all climates seem
+to preserve the same character of craftiness and cunning. Traps of
+different sorts, some calculated to fall upon them, others to catch them by
+the feet, others by the head, are amongst the most common; to which may be
+added, several ingenious contrivances for taking them in nets. Poisoned
+baits are likewise in use; and the _nux vomica_ is the drug principally
+employed for this purpose. Before their knowledge of the Russians, by which
+they became acquainted with fire-arms, they also carried bows and arrows to
+the chase. But since that period, almost every Kamtschadale is provided
+with a rifle-barrel gun; and, though far from being dexterous in the use of
+it, its superiority over the former instruments he is ready to acknowledge.
+
+The sables[57] of Kamtschatka are said to be considerably larger than those
+of Siberia, and their fur much thicker and brighter, though not of so good
+a black as those in the neighbourhood of the Olekma and the Vitime,[58] a
+circumstance which depreciates their value much more than their superiority
+in other respects enhances it. The sables of the Tigil and Ouka are counted
+the best in Kamtschatka; and a pair of these sometimes sell for thirty
+roubles (five pounds sterling). The worst are those of the southern
+extremity. The apparatus of the sable hunters consist of a rifle-barrel gun
+of an exceedingly small bore, a net, and a few bricks; with the first they
+shoot them when they see them on the trees; the net is to surround the
+hollow trees, in which, when pursued, they take refuge; and the bricks are
+heated, and put into the cavities, in order to smoke them out.
+
+I must refer the reader for an account of the isatis,[59] or arctic fox, to
+Mr Pennant's Arctic Zoology, as I never saw either the animal or the skin,
+which I understand they set no value upon. The varying hare[60] is also
+neglected on the same account. They are in great abundance; and, as is
+always the case with this species, turn quite white during the winter. Our
+shooting parties saw several of this colour the beginning of May, but found
+them so shy, that they were not able to get within gun-shot.
+
+The mountain-rat, or earless marmot,[61] is a beautiful little animal,
+considerably smaller than a squirrel, and, like it, feeds upon roots,
+berries, the cedar-apple, &c. which it eats sitting upon its hind-legs, and
+holding them up to its mouth with the paws. Its skin is much valued by the
+Kamtschadales, is both warm and light, and of a bright shining colour,
+forming, like the plumage of some birds, various colours when viewed in
+different lights.
+
+The stoat, or ermine,[62] is here held in no estimation, and consequently
+never engages the attention of the hunters; because, as I have heard, its
+fur is of an ordinary kind. I saw many of these little animals running
+about; and we bought several of their skins, which were of a bad white, and
+of a dirty yellow toward the belly. The common weasel[63] is also
+neglected, and for the same reason.
+
+On the contrary, the skin of the glutton, or wolverene,[64] is here in the
+highest repute; insomuch, that a Kamtschadale looks upon himself as most
+richly attired, when a small quantity of this fur is seen upon him. The
+women adorn their hair with its pats, which are white, and considered as an
+extraordinary piece of finery; and they have a superstitious opinion, that
+the angels are clad with the skins of those animals. It is said, that this
+creature is easily tamed, and taught a number of pleasant tricks.[65]
+
+Having already had occasion to speak, as fully as my own knowledge enables
+me, of the bears, and the method of killing them, I shall only here
+observe, that all those I saw were of a dun brown colour; that they are
+generally seen in companies of four or five together; that the time they
+are most abroad is during the season that the fish (which is their
+principal food) are pushing up from the sea into the rivers, and that they
+are seldom visible in the winter months.[66]
+
+Their skins are exceedingly useful. They make both excellent warm matresses
+and coverings for their beds; comfortable bonnets and gloves, and good
+collars for the dogs' harness. Their flesh, and particularly the fat, are
+considered as great delicacies.
+
+The wolves are only seen in the winter; at which season they prowl about,
+as I was told, in large companies, in search of prey.
+
+There are rein-deer, both wild and tame, in several parts of the peninsula;
+but none in the neighbourhood of Awatska. It is somewhat singular, that
+this nation should never have used the rein-deer for the purposes of
+carriage, in the same manner as their neighbours, both to the north and the
+eastward. Their dogs, indeed, seem fully sufficient for all the demands of
+the natives in their present state; and the breed of Russian horses will
+probably increase with the future necessities of the country. But when it
+is recollected, that the use of dogs, in a great measure, precludes them
+from the advantage of bringing up any other domestic animals, it will
+appear the more extraordinary, that they should not have adopted the
+services of an animal so much more gentle as well as powerful.
+
+The argali, or wild mountain-sheep,[67] an animal, I believe, unknown in
+Europe, (except in Corsica and Sardinia,) is here in great plenty. Its skin
+is like the deer's, but in gait and general appearance, it partakes more of
+the goat. It has two large twisted horns, sometimes weighing, when at full
+growth, from twenty-five to thirty pounds, which in, running it rests upon
+its back. These creatures are exceedingly, nimble and swift, haunt only the
+most craggy and mountainous parts, and make their way among the steepest
+rocks with an agility that is astonishing. The natives work their horns
+into spoons, and small cups and platters; and have frequently one of a
+smaller size hanging to a belt, which serves them to drink out of in their
+hunting expeditions. This animal is gregarious. I frequently tasted the
+flesh of them, and thought it had a very sweet and delicate flavour; but
+never had an opportunity of seeing one alive. I must, therefore, refer the
+reader for a particular description of this beautiful animal, (for such it
+is said to be,) to the Memoirs of the Academy of Petersburg, tom. iv. tab.
+xiii.
+
+I have already observed, that the dogs of this country are, in shape and
+mien, exceedingly like the Pomeranian, with this difference, that they are
+a great deal larger, and the hair somewhat coarser. They are of a variety
+of colours; but the most general is a light dun, or dirty cream-colour.
+Toward the end of May they are all turned loose, and left to provide for
+themselves through the summer, being sure to return to their respective
+homes when the snow begins to fall. Their food, in the winter, consists
+entirely of the head, entrails, and back-bones of salmon; which are put
+aside, and dried for that purpose; and with this diet they are fed but
+sparingly. The number of dogs must needs be very great, since five are
+yoked to a sledge, and a sledge carries but one person; so that on our
+journey to Bolcheretsk, we required no fewer than an hundred and thirty-
+nine, at the two stages of Karatchin and Natcheekin. It is also to be
+remarked, that they never make use of bitches for the draft, nor dogs, but
+those that are cut. The whelps are trained to this business, by being tied
+to stakes with light leathern thongs, which, are made to stretch, and
+having their victuals placed at a proper distance out of their reach; so
+that by constantly pulling and labouring, in order to come at their food,
+they acquire both the strength of limbs, and the habit of drawing, that are
+necessary for their future destination.
+
+The coasts and bays of this country are frequented by almost every kind of
+northern sea-fowl; and amongst the rest are the sea-eagles, but not, as at
+Oonalashka, in great numbers. The rivers inland (if I may judge from what I
+saw in our journey to Bolcheretsk) are stored with numerous flocks of wild-
+ducks of various species; one kind of which, in particular, has a most
+beautiful plumage, and is called by the natives _a-an-gitche_; a word
+intended to express its cry, which is not less singular than agreeable,
+consisting of three distinct notes, rising, at equal intervals, above each
+other.[68]
+
+ There is another species, called the mountain-duck,[69] which, Steller
+says, is peculiar to Kamtschatka. The drake is covered with plumage of
+extraordinary beauty. Besides these, we observed a variety of other water-
+fowl, which, from their size, seemed to be of the wild-goose kind.
+
+In the woods through which we passed, were seen several eagles of a
+prodigious size; but of what species they were I cannot pretend to
+determine. These are said to be of three different sorts; the black eagle,
+with a white head, tail, and leg;[70] of which the eaglets are as white as
+snow; the white eagle, so called, though in fact it is of a light grey; and
+the lead, or stone-coloured eagle,[71] which is the most common; and
+probably those I saw were of this sort. Of the hawk, falcon, and bustard
+kind, there are great numbers.
+
+This country likewise affords woodcocks, snipes, and two sorts of grouse,
+or moor-game. Swans are also said to be in great plenty; and in their
+entertainments, generally to make a part of the repast, though I do not
+remember to have seen one on any occasion. The vast abundance of wild-fowl
+with which the country is stored, was manifest from the numerous presents
+we received from the _Toion_ of Saint Peter and Saint Paul; and which
+sometimes consisted of twenty brace.
+
+We met with no amphibious sea-animals on the coast, except seals, with
+which the bay of Awatska swarmed; as they were at this time in pursuit of
+the salmon that were collecting in shoals, and ready to ascend the rivers.
+Some of them are said to pursue the fish into the fresh water, and to be
+found in most of the lakes which communicate with the sea.
+
+The sea-otters[72] are exactly the same with those we met with at Nootka
+Sound, which have been already fully described, and where they are in great
+plenty. They are also said to have been formerly in equal abundance here;
+but, since the Russians have opened a trade for their skins to China, where
+they are sold at a price much beyond that of any other kind of fur, they
+have been hunted almost entirely out of the country. Amongst the Kurile
+Islands they are still caught, though in no great numbers; but are of a
+superior quality to those of Kamtschatka, or the American coast.
+
+We are informed, that on Mednoi and Beering's Island, scarce a sea-otter is
+now to be found; though it appears from Muller,[73] that in his time they
+were exceedingly plentiful.
+
+The Russian voyagers make mention of a great variety of amphibious sea-
+animals, which are said to frequent these coasts; the reason why we saw no
+other kinds might be, that this was the season of their migration.
+
+Not having it in my power to treat these articles more fully, I conclude
+them with the less regret, since the ingenious Mr Pennant has a work,
+almost ready for publication, entitled, "Arctic Zoology;" in which the
+learned will receive full information concerning the animals of this
+peninsula. This gentleman has very obligingly communicated to me his
+Catalogue of Arctic Animals, with reference to his work, and permission to
+insert it. It will be found at the end of this section; and I feel myself
+extremely happy in laying it before the reader, and thereby presenting him
+with, what could have been furnished from no other quarter, one entire view
+of Kamtschadale zoology.[74]
+
+Fish may be considered as the staple article of food with which Providence
+hath supplied the inhabitants of this peninsula; who, in general, must
+never expect to draw any considerable part of their sustenance either from
+grain or cattle. It is true, the soil, as has been remarked, affords some
+good and nourishing roots, and every part of the country abounds in
+berries; but though these alone would be insufficient for the support of
+the people, yet, at the same time, they are necessary correctives of the
+putrescent quality of their dried fish. In short, fish may, with much
+greater justice, be here called the staff of life, than bread is in other
+countries; since it appears, that neither the inhabitants, nor the only
+domestic animal they have, the dog, could exist without it.
+
+Whales are frequently seen, both in the sea of Okotzk, and on the side of
+the eastern ocean, and, when caught, are turned to a variety of uses. Of
+the skin they make the soles of their shoes, and straps and thongs for
+various other purposes. The flesh they eat, and the fat is carefully
+stored, both for kitchen use, and for their lamps. The whiskers are found
+to be the best materials for sewing together the seams of their canoes;
+they likewise make nets of them for the larger kind of fish; and with the
+under-jaw-bones their sledges are shod. They likewise work the bones into
+knives; and formerly the chains with which their dogs are tied, were made
+of that material, though at present iron ones are generally used. The
+intestines they clean, then blow and dry like bladders and it is in these
+their oil and grease is stored; and of the nerves and veins, which are both
+strong and slip readily, they make excellent snares; so that there is no
+part of the whale which here does not find its use.
+
+From the middle of May, till our departure on the 24th of June, we caught
+great quantities of excellent flat-fish, trout, and herrings. Upward of
+three hundred of the former, besides a number of sea-trout, were dragged
+out at one haul of the seine, the 15th of May. These flat-fish are firm,
+and of a good flavour, studded upon the back with round prickly knobs, like
+turbot, and streaked with dark-brown lines, running from the head toward
+the tail. About the end of May the first herring season begins. They
+approach in great shoals, but do not remain long on the coast. They had
+entirely left the bay before we sailed out of it the first time, but were
+beginning to revisit it again in October. It has been already mentioned,
+that the herrings were remarkably fine and large, and that we filled a
+great part of our empty casks with them. The beginning of June large
+quantities of excellent cod were taken; a part of which were likewise
+salted. We caught too, at different times, numbers of small fish, much
+resembling a smelt, and once drew out a wolf-fish.
+
+Notwithstanding this abundance of flat-fish, cod, and herring, it is on the
+salmon-fishery alone that the Kamtschadales depend for their winter
+provisions. Of these, it is said by naturalists, there are to be found on
+this coast all the different species that are known to exist, and which the
+natives formerly characterized by the different months in which they ascend
+the rivers. They say, too, that though the shoals of different sorts are
+seen to mount the rivers at the same time, yet they never mix with each
+other; that they always return to the same river in which they were bred,
+but not till the third summer; that neither the male nor female live to
+regain the sea; that certain species frequent certain rivers, and are never
+found in others, though they empty themselves nearly at the same place.
+
+The first shoals of salmon begin to enter the mouth of the Awatska about
+the middle of May; and this kind, which is called by the Kamtschadales
+_Tchavitsi_, is the largest and most valued. Their length is generally
+about three feet and a half; they are very deep in proportion, and their
+average weight is from thirty to forty pounds. The tail is not forked, but
+straight. The back is of a dark blue, spotted with black; in other respects
+they are much like our common salmon. They ascend the river with
+extraordinary velocity, insomuch that the water is sensibly agitated by
+their motion; and the Kamtschadales, who are always on the watch for them
+about the time they are expected, judge of their approach by this
+circumstance, and immediately let drop their nets before them. We were
+presented with one of the first that was caught, and given to understand
+that it was the greatest compliment that could be paid us. Krascheninnikoff
+relates, that formerly the Kamtschadales made a point of eating the first
+fish they took with great rejoicings, and a variety of superstitious
+ceremonies; and that, after the Russians became their masters, it was for a
+long time a constant subject of quarrel between them, to whom the first
+should belong. The season for fishing for this species lasts from the
+middle of May till the end of June.
+
+The other sort is of a smaller kind, weighing only from eight to sixteen
+pounds. They are known by the general name of the red fish, and begin to
+collect in the bays and at the mouths of the rivers the beginning of June;
+from, which time till the end of September, they are caught in great
+quantities, both upon the eastern and western coast, where any fresh water
+falls into the sea, and likewise all along the course of the rivers to
+their very source. The manner in which they draw their nets within the bay
+of Awatska is as follows: They tie one end of the net to a large stone at
+the water's edge; they then push off in a canoe about twenty yards in a
+right line, dropping their net as they advance, after which they turn and
+run out the remainder of the net in a line parallel to the shore. In this
+position they wait, concealing themselves very carefully in the boat, and
+keeping a sharp look-out for the fish, which always direct their course
+close in with the shore, and whose approach is announced by a rippling in
+the water, till they find that the shoal has advanced beyond the boat, when
+they shoot the canoe to shore in a direct line, and never fail of inclosing
+their prey. Seldom more than two men are employed to a net, who haul with
+facility, in this manner, seines larger than ours, to which we appoint a
+dozen. We at first met with very poor success in our own method of hauling,
+but after the Kamtschadales had very kindly put us in the way, we were not
+less successful than themselves. In the rivers, they shoot one net across,
+and haul another down the stream to it.
+
+The lakes that have a communication with the sea, which was the case of all
+those that I saw, abound with fish that have very much the resemblance of
+small salmon, and are from four to six pounds weight. I could not
+understand that the inhabitants thought it worth their while to fish for
+them. As these lakes are not deep, they become an easy prey to the bears
+and dogs during the summer; and, if I might judge from the quantity of
+bones to be seen upon, the banks, they devour vast numbers of them.
+
+The inhabitants, for the most part, dry their salmon, and salt very little
+of it. Each fish is cut into three pieces, the belly-piece being first
+taken off, and afterward a slice along each side the back-bone. The former
+of these are dried and smoked, and esteemed the finest part of the fish,
+and sold, when we were at Saint Peter and Saint Paul's, at the rate of one
+hundred for a rouble. The latter are dried in the air, and either eaten
+whole as bread, or reduced to powder, of which they make paste and cakes,
+that are not unpleasant to the taste. The head, tail, and bones are hung
+up, and dried for winter provision for the dogs.
+
+
+_List of Animals found in Kamtschadale, communicated by Mr Pennant_.[75]
+
+
+*Argali, wild sheep, Arct.         _Capra ammon_, Lin. Syst. 97
+    Zool. vol. i. p. 12.
+ Ibex, _or_ wild goat          16  _Capra ibex_.             90
+*Rein                          22  _Cervus tarandus_.        93
+*Wolf                          38  _Canis lupus_.            53
+*Dog                           40
+*Arctic fox                    42   _Canis lagopus_.         59
+*European fox                  45   _Canis vulpes_.          59
+*  a. black                    46
+   b. cross                    ib.
+*Polar bear, in the Frozen Sea      _Ursus Arctos_.          69
+   only                        55
+*Bear                          57   _Ursus arctos_.
+*Wolverene                     66   _Ursus luscus_.          71
+*Common weasel                 75   _Mustela nivalis_.       69
+*Stoat, _or_ ermine            ib.  _Mustela erminea_.       68
+*Sable                         79   _Mustela zibellina_.     68
+ Common otter                  86   _Mustela lutra_.         66
+*Sea otter                     88   _Mustela lutris_.        66
+*Varying hare                  94   _Lepus timidus_.
+ Alpine hare                   97
+*Earless marmot               113   _Mus citellus_.         113
+ Bobak marmot                 115
+ Water rat                    130   _Mus amphibius_.         82
+ Common mouse                 131   _Mus Musculus_.          83
+ OEconomic mouse              134
+ Red mouse                    136
+ Ichelag mouse                138
+ Foetid shrew                 139   _Sorex araneus_.         74
+*Walrus. Icy sea              144   _Trichecus rosmarus_.    49
+*Common seal                  151   _Phoca vitulina_         56
+ Great seal                   159
+ Leporine seal                161
+ Harp seal                    163
+ Rubbon seal. Kurile Isles    165
+ Ursine seal                  ib.   _Phoca ursina_           58
+ Leonine seal                 172
+*Whale-tailed manati          177
+
+
+There were no domestic animals in Kamtschatka till they were introduced by
+the Russians. The dogs, which seem to be of wolfish descent, are
+aboriginal.
+
+
+BIRDS.
+
+
+LAND BIRDS.
+
+
+I.    Sea eagle. Vol. II. p. 194   _Falco ossifragus_ ..... 124
+     *Cinereous eagle ...... 2l4   _Vultur albiulla_ ...... 123
+     *White-headed eagle ... 196   _Falco leucocephalus_ .. ib.
+      Crying eagle ......... 215     (Latham, I.38.)
+      Osprey ............... 199   _Falco haliætus_ ....... 129
+      Peregrine falcon ..... 202     (Latham, I.73.[76])
+      Goshawk .............. 204   _Falco palumbarius_..... 130
+II.   Eagle owl ............ 228   _Strix bubo_ ........... 131
+      Snowy owl ............ 233   _Strix nyctea_.......... 132
+III   Raven ................ 246   _Corvus corax_.......... 155
+      Magpye ............... 147   _Corvus pica_ .......... 157
+      Nutcracker ........... 252   _Corvus caryocatactes_.. ib.
+IV.   Cuckoo ............... 266   _Cuculus canorus_ ...... 168
+V.    Wryneck .............. 267   _Jynx torquilla_ ....... 172
+VI.   Nuthatch ............. 281   _Sitta Europea_  ....... 177
+VII.  White grous .......... 308   _Tetrao lagopus_ ....... 274
+      Wood grous ........... 312   _Tetrao urogallus_ ..... 273
+VIII. Water ouzel .......... 332   _Sturnus cinclus_
+IX.   Fieldfare ............ 340   _Turdus pilaris_  ...... 291
+      Redwing thrush ....... 341   _Turdus iliacus_  ...... 291
+      Kamtschatkan ......... 343     (Latham, III. 23.)
+X.    Greenfinch ........... 353   _Loxia chloris_ ........ 304
+XI.   Golden bunting ....... 367     (Latham, II. 201.)
+XII.  Lesser red-headed         \
+       linnet .............. 379/    (Latham, II. 305.)
+XIII. Dun flycatcher ....... 390     (Latham, II. 351.)
+XIV.  Sky-lark ............. 394A.  _Alauda arsensis_ ..... 287
+      Wood-lark ............ 395B.  _Alauda arborea_ ...... ib.
+XV.   White wagtail ........ 396E.  _Motacilla alba_ ...... 331
+      Yellow wagtail ....... ib.F.  _Motacilla flava_ ..... ib.
+      Tschutski wagtail .... 397H.    (Latham, IV. 403.)
+XVI.  Yellow wren .......... 413    _Motacilla trochilus_.  338
+      Redstart ............. 416    _Motacilla phænicurus_. 335
+      Longbilled ........... 420
+      Stapazina ............ 421    _Motacilla stapazina_.  331
+      Awatska .............. 422
+XVII. Marsh titmouse ....... 427    _Paras palustris_ ..... 341
+XVIII.Chimney swallow ...... 429    _Hirundo rustica_ ..... 343
+      Martin ............... 430    _Hirundo urbica_ .....  344
+      Sand martin .......... ib.    _Hirundo riparia_ ....  ib.
+XIX. European goatsucker ... 437    _Caprimulgus Europeus_. 346
+
+
+WATER FOWL.
+
+
+_Cloven-footed Water Fowl_.
+
+
+Crane                 P.453 A. _Ardeagrus_               334
+Curlew                P.462 A. _Scolopax arquata_        242
+Whimbrel              P.462 B. _Scolopax phæopus_        243
+Common sandpiper     No 388    _Tringa hypoleucos_       250
+Gambet               No 394    _Tringa gambetta_         248
+Golden plover        No 399    _Charadrius pluvialis_    254
+Pied oyster-catcher  No        _Hæmatopus ostralegus_    257
+
+
+_With pinnated Feet_.
+
+
+Plain phalarope.
+
+
+_With webbed Feet_.
+
+
+Wandering albatross   No 423  _Diomedea exulans_         214
+Razor-bill hawk       No 425  _Alca torda_               210
+Puffin                No 427  _Alca arctica_             211
+Antient               No 430
+Pygmy                 No 431
+Tufted                No 432
+Parroquet             No 433
+Crested               No 434
+Dusky                 No 435
+Foolish guillemot     No 436  _Colymbus troille_          220
+Black guillemot       No 437  _Colymbus grylle_.          ib.
+Marbled guillemot     No 438
+Imber diver           No 440  _Colymbus immer_            222
+Speckled diver        No 441
+Red-throated diver    No 443  _Colymbus septentrionalis_  220
+Great tern            No 448  _Sterna hirundo_.
+Kamtschatkan          P.525 A.
+Black-headed gull     No 455  _Larus ridibundus_          225
+Kittiwake gull        No 456  _Larus rissa_               224
+Ivory gull            No 457
+Arctic gull           No 459
+Tarrock               P.533D._Larus tridactylus_.         ib.
+Red-legged            P.533 E.
+Fulmar petrel         No 464  _Procellaria glacialis_     213
+Stormy petrel         No 464  _Procellaria pelagica_      212
+Kurile petrel         P.536 A.
+Blue petrel.[77]      Preface.
+Goosander merganser   No 465  _Mergus merganser_          208
+Smew                  No 468  _Mergus albellus_           209
+Whistling swan        No 469  _Anas Cygnus ferus_         194 A.
+Great goose           P.570
+Chinese goose         P.571  _Anas cygnoides_             194 B.
+Snow goose            No 477
+Brent goose           No 478   _Anas bernicla_            198
+Eider duck            No 480   _Anas molitsima_           ib.
+Black duck            No 483   _Anas spectabilis_         195
+Velvet duck           No 481   _Anas fusca_               196
+Shoveler              No 485   _Anas clypeata_            200
+Golden eye            No 486   _Anas clangula_            201
+Harlequin             No 490   _Anas histrionica_         204
+Mallard               No 494   _Anas boschas_             205
+* Western             No 497
+Pintail               No 500   _Anas acuta_               202
+* Longtailed          No 501   _Anas glacialis_           203
+Morillon              P.573 F. _Anas glaucion_            201
+Shieldrake            P.572 D. _Anas tadorna_             195
+Tufted                P.573 G. _Anas fuligula_            207
+Falcated              P.574 I.
+Garganey              P.576 O. _Anas querquedula_         263
+Teal                  P.577 P. _Anas crecia_              204
+Corvorant             No 509   _Pelecanus carbo_          216
+Violet corvorant      P.584 B.
+Red-faced corvorant   P.584 C.
+
+
+[42] Some doubt may be entertained of the propriety with which Captain King
+    has occupied so large a portion of his volume as two chapters, or
+    sections, with a subject, respecting which it is most certain, his
+    knowledge must have resulted from almost any thing else than his own
+    personal observation. There is force in the objection. But it must be
+    allowed on the other hand, that there was no inconsiderable inducement
+    to supply the public with a tolerable share of information concerning
+    a country which, distant and uncultivated as it was, seemed
+    notwithstanding to be entitled to more regard than had usually been
+    paid to it. Steller's work, of which he has properly availed himself,
+    had been but recently published, viz. in 1774, and in all probability
+    had not hitherto occupied much attention. The earlier accounts,
+    whether published separately as that of Krascheninnikof, an English
+    translation of which appeared at Gloucester in 1764, or contained in
+    other works, as an article in Pallas's New Memoirs of the North, were
+    perhaps still less consulted. Captain King's description, therefore,
+    supposing the subject in any degree entitled to notice, was neither
+    unnecessary nor unprofitable. It has been generally employed as the
+    basis of the subsequent accounts which have been inserted in
+    gazetteers and treatises of geography. But there have been several
+    works, entitled to the consideration of being original, published
+    since its appearance, from which some additions might be obtained, or
+    which point out reasons for correction,--not so much however, it is
+    proper to remark, because of errors committed by Captain K., as
+    because of alterations occurred in the country since his time. A few
+    of these, unfortunately not much for the better, have been stated, or
+    will be so, on the authority of one of the last visitors to
+    Kamtschatka, Captain Krusenstern. This gentleman, however, it ought to
+    be understood, admits the general accuracy of the previous accounts
+    given by Krascheninnikof, Steller, and King, and therefore, avoiding
+    repetition, restricts himself almost entirely to the mention of the
+    most material changes which have taken place during the last thirty
+    years. This will readily be allowed enough for our present purpose,
+    exclusive of any attention to the other productions which have treated
+    of Kamtschatka, in the intermediate period.--E.
+
+[43] It is in the vicinity of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, Krusenstern
+    allows, that the climate is so unfavourable, and the soil, in
+    consequence, so ungrateful. But he specifies reasons for believing that
+    the middle provinces of Kamtschatska are equal, if not superior, to
+    many in European Russia, in respect of natural advantages, though
+    certainly far less indebted to the hand of man. He tells us, however,
+    that in the interior, several species of corn are brought to
+    perfection and many kinds of vegetables are cultivated. In his opinion
+    the climate is not so bad as it has generally been represented, and he
+    is convinced that the indolence of the inhabitants, and the incapacity
+    occasioned by the immoderate use of spirits, are far more in fault as
+    to the deficiency or unproductiveness of the soil, than the frequent
+    fogs which are so much complained of, or any other unkindness on the
+    part of nature. In proof of this, he maintains that the officers who
+    are garrisoned here, have laid out gardens for themselves, which, by
+    proper care, yield almost every kind of vegetable necessary for the
+    table, and that too in quantities beyond the usual demand. Besides the
+    materially efficient checks already mentioned, this gentleman
+    specifies a very unreasonable notion, pretty commonly entertained,
+    which has operated extensively in limiting the productions of the
+    earth, and from which not even the officers who had been successful in
+    their particular pursuits were altogether exempt. The notion to which
+    he alludes is, that it would be useless to commence cultivating their
+    gardens before the month of July, although, to his certain knowledge,
+    June was _as beautiful as it can possibly be in the most favoured
+    climate_, and though, according to Captain King, wild garlic, cellery,
+    and nettles, were gathered for his crew in the month of May. The
+    inference from this last circumstance seems obviously correct. "If,"
+    says Krusenstern, "in the middle of May so much is already produced
+    without any cultivation at all, I think I do not assert too much in
+    saying they ought to begin to lay out their gardens in this month."
+    This conclusion appears still more importantly authoritative from what
+    he relates on his own experience. "I passed all the summer months in
+    Kamtschatka," says he, "during the two years of my absence; that is to
+    say, the whole of June, a part of July, and the whole of August and
+    September, and can affirm with confidence, that, in these four months,
+    there are just as many pleasant cheerful days as in any other place
+    under the same latitude." On the whole then, one may readily concur in
+    sentiment with this intelligent officer, that did the government adopt
+    very different measures from those which have hitherto been in force,
+    and were certain practices and prejudices abolished, Kamtschatka might
+    afford as good and cheap living as many other provinces of the Russian
+    empire. To most readers, it is probable, this will seem no very mighty
+    recommendation. Relatively, however, to the person who makes it, and
+    to those to whom it is addressed, it must be allowed to possess a
+    virtue of no common magnitude or efficacy. Perhaps it is necessary to
+    state for the credit of this writer, that some of the immediately
+    following remarks of Captain King, much as they seem at first sight to
+    oppose one of his opinions above approved of, will be found on
+    attentive consideration perfectly reconcileable with them, more
+    particularly if it be remembered that in other countries where much
+    snow falls during the winter, nothing is more usual than to find, on
+    its disappearance, that the earth is covered with a rich and healthy
+    vegetation which a thick coating of that substance, known to be a bad
+    conductor of heat, had preserved from the rigors of the season.--E.
+
+[44] Krascheninnikoff says, that the tree here spoken of is a dwarf cedar,
+    for that there is not a pine in the peninsula.
+
+[45] Krascheninnikoff says, that the natives likewise convert the bark into
+    a pleasant wholesome food, by stripping it off whilst it is young and
+    green, and cutting it into long narrow stripes, like _vermicelli_,
+    drying it, and stewing it afterward along with their _caviar_.
+
+[46] Gmelin, p. 41. Steller enumerates five different species of this
+    plant.
+
+[47] Lonicera pedunclis bifloris, floribus infundibili formis, bacciâ
+    solitariâ, oblongâ, angulosâ. Gmel. Flor. Sib.
+
+[48] Myrtillus grandis cæruleus.
+
+[49] Epilobium.
+
+[50] Chærephyllum seminibus levibus.
+
+[51] Tradescantia fructu molli edulo.
+
+[52] Bistorta foliis ovatis, oblongis, acuminatis.
+
+[53] Jacobea foliis cannabis. Steller.
+
+[54] Anemonoides et ranunculus.
+
+[55] Gmel. Sib. Tom. i. p. 119. Tab. XXV.
+
+[56] Canis vulpes.
+
+[57] Mustela zibellina.
+
+[58] Rivers emptying themselves into the Lena, near its source.
+
+[59] Canis lagopus.
+
+[60] Lepus timidus.
+
+[61] Mus citellus.
+
+[62] Mustela erminea.
+
+[63] Mustela nivalis.
+
+[64] Ursus luseus.
+
+[65] Krascheninnikoff relates, that this small animal frequently destroys
+    deer, and the wild mountain sheep, in the following way: They scatter
+    at the bottom of trees bark and moss, which those animals are fond of;
+    and whilst they are picking it up, drop suddenly upon them, and,
+    fastening behind the head, suck out their eyes.
+
+[66] The Koriacks make use of a very simple method of catching bears. They
+    suspend, between the forks of a tree, a running noose; within which
+    they fasten a bait, which the animal, endeavouring to pull away, is
+    caught sometimes by the neck, and sometimes by the paw.
+
+[67] Capra ammon, or wild sheep. Arct, Zool. i. p. 12.
+
+[68] Mr Steller has made the following scale of its cry:
+
+    [Illustration:
+     F-A- C     |F-A- C
+     a-an-gitche a-an-gitche.
+    ]
+
+    For a further account of this bird, I must refer the reader to
+    Krascheninnikoff, vol. ii. part 4.
+
+[69] Anas picta, capita pulchrè fasciato. Steller.
+
+[70] Falco leucocephalus.
+
+[71] Vultur albiulla.
+
+[72] Mustela lutris.
+
+[73] English translation, p. 59.
+
+[74] Few readers, it is probable, will require the information, that the
+    work of Mr Pennant, here alluded to, was published not very long after
+    the appearance of this voyage, viz. in 1784. In consequence of this
+    circumstance, it might be thought unnecessary to insert the table or
+    catalogue of animals now spoken of. But, on the whole, there appeared
+    more propriety in risking the offence of repetition with those who
+    possess Mr P.'s work, than in disappointing those who do not.--E.
+
+[75] The quadrupeds and birds mentioned in this part of the voyage are
+    marked in this list with an asterisk.
+
+[76] The birds, which are not described by Linnæus's, are referred to the
+    History of Birds, published by Mr Latham, surgeon in Dartford, Kent.
+
+[77] I never saw this, but it is mentioned by Mr Ellis. I had omitted it in
+    my zoologic part.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION VII.
+
+
+General Account of Kamtschatka, continued.--Of the Inhabitants.--Origin of
+the Kamtschadales.--Discovered by the Russians.--Abstract of their
+History.--Numbers.--Present State.--Of the Russian Commerce in
+Kamtschatka.--Of the Kamtschadale Habitations, and Dress.--Of the Kurile
+Islands.--The Koreki.--The Tschutski.
+
+
+The present inhabitants of Kamtschatka are of three sorts. The natives, or
+Kamtschadales; the Russians and Cossacks; and a mixture of these two by
+marriage.
+
+Mr Steller, who resided sometime in this country, and who seems to have
+taken great pains to gain information on this subject, is persuaded, that
+the true Kamtschadales are a people of great antiquity, and have for many
+ages inhabited this peninsula; and that they are originally descended from
+the Mungallians, and not either from the Tungusian Tartars, as some, or the
+Japanese, as others have imagined.
+
+The principal arguments, by which he supports these opinions, are, That
+there exists not among them the trace of a tradition of their having
+migrated from any other country; that they believe themselves to have been
+created and placed in this very spot by their god Koutkou; that they are
+the most favoured of his creatures; the most fortunate and happy of beings;
+and that their country is superior to all others, affording means of
+gratification far beyond what are any where else to be met with; that they
+have a perfect knowledge of all the plants of their country, their virtues
+and uses, which could not be acquired in a short time; that their
+instruments and household utensils differ greatly from those of any other
+nation, and are made with an extraordinary degree of neatness and
+dexterity, which implies that they are both of their own invention, and
+have been long in arriving at so great perfection; that, antecedently to
+the arrival of the Russians and Cossacks among them, they had not the
+smallest knowledge of any people, except the Koreki; that it is but of late
+they had an intercourse with the Kuriles, and still later (and happened by
+means of a vessel being shipwrecked on their coast) that they knew any
+thing of the Japanese; and, lastly, that the country was very populous at
+the time the Russians first got footing in it.
+
+The reasons he alleges for supposing them to be originally descended from
+the Mungalians, are, That many words in their language have terminations
+similar to those of the Mungalian Chinese, such as, ong, ing, oing, tching,
+tcha, tchoing, ksi, ksung, &c.; and, moreover, that the same principle of
+inflexion or derivation obtains in both languages; that they are in general
+under-sized, as are the Mungalians; that their complexion, like theirs, is
+swarthy; that they have black hair, little beard, the face broad, the nose
+short and flat, the eyes small and sunk, the eye-brows thin, the belly
+pendant, the legs small; all which are peculiarities that are to be found
+among the Mungalians. From the whole of which he draws this conclusion,
+that they fled for safety to this peninsula, from the rapid advances of the
+Eastern conquerors; as the Laplanders, the Samoides, &c. were compelled to
+retreat to the extremities of the north by the Europeans.
+
+The Russians having extended their conquests, and established posts and
+colonies along that immense extent of coast of the Frozen Sea, from the
+Jenesei to the Anadir, appointed commissaries for the purpose of exploring
+and subjecting the countries still farther eastward. They soon became
+acquainted with the wandering Koriacs, inhabiting the north and north-east
+coast of the sea of Okotzk, and, without difficulty, made them tributary.
+These being the immediate neighbours of the Kamtschadales, and likewise in
+the habits of bartering with them, a knowledge of Kamtschatka followed of
+course.
+
+The honour of the first discovery is given to Feodot Alexeieff, a merchant,
+who is said to have sailed from the river Kovyma, round the peninsula of
+the Tschutski, in company with seven other vessels, about the year 1648.
+The tradition goes, that, being separated from the rest by a storm, near
+the Tschukotskoi Noss, he was driven upon the coast of Kamtschatka, where
+he wintered; and the summer following coasted round the promontory of
+Lopatka, into the sea of Okotzk, and entered the mouth of the Tigil; but
+that he and his companions were cut off by the Koriacs, in endeavouring to
+pass from thence by land to the Anadirsk. This, in part, is corroborated by
+the accounts of Simeon Deshneff, who commanded one of the seven vessels,
+and was thrown on shore at the mouth of the Anadir. Be this as it may,
+since these discoverers, if such they were, did not live to make any report
+of what they had done, Volodimir Atlassoff, a Cossack, stands for the first
+acknowledged discoverer of Kamtschatka.[78]
+
+This person was sent, in the year 1697, from the fort Jakutzk to the
+Anadirsk, in the quality of commissary, with instructions to call in the
+assistance of the Koriacs, with a view to the discovery of countries beyond
+theirs, and to the subjecting them to a tribute. In 1699, he penetrated,
+with about sixty Russian soldiers, and the same number of Cossacks, into
+the heart of the peninsula; gained the Tigil; and from thence levying a
+tribute in furs, in his progress crossed over to the river Kamtschatka, on
+which he built the higher Kamtschatka ostrog, called Verchnei, where he
+left a garrison of sixteen Cossacks, and returned to Jakutzk in 1700, with
+an immense quantity of rare and valuable tributary furs. These he had the
+good sense and policy to accompany to Moscow; and, in recompence for his
+services, was appointed commander of the fort of Jakutzk, with farther
+orders to repair again to Kamtschatka; having first drawn from the garrison
+at Tobolsk a reinforcement of a hundred Cossacks, with ammunition, and
+whatever else could give efficacy to the completion and settlement of his
+late discoveries. Advancing with this force toward the Anadirsk, he fell in
+with a bark on the river[79] Tunguska. laden with Chinese merchandize,
+which he pillaged; and, in consequence of a remonstrance from the sufferers
+to the Russian court, he was seized upon at Jakutzk, and thrown into
+prison.
+
+In the mean time, Potop Serioukoff, who had been left by Atlassoff, kept
+peaceable possession of the garrison of Verchnei; and though he had not a
+sufficient force to compel the payment of a tribute from the natives, yet,
+by his management and conciliating disposition, he continued to carry on an
+advantageous traffic with them as a merchant. On his return to the
+Anadirsk, with the general good-will of the natives of Kamtschatka, himself
+and party were attacked by the Koriacs, and unfortunately all cut off. This
+happened about 17O3; and several other successive commissaries were sent
+into Kamtschatka, with various success, during the disgrace and trial of
+Atlassoff.
+
+In 1706, Atlassoff was reinstated in his command, and appointed to conduct
+a second expedition into Kamtschatka, with instructions to gain upon the
+natives by all peaceable means, but on no pretence to have recourse to
+force and compulsion; but, instead of attending to his orders, he not only,
+by repeated acts of cruelty and injustice, made the natives exceedingly
+hostile and averse to their new governors, but likewise so far alienated
+the affections of his own people, that it ended in a mutiny of the
+Cossacks, and their demand of another commander. The Cossacks having
+carried their point, in displacing Atlassoff, seized upon his effects; and,
+after once tasting the sweets of plunder, and of living without discipline
+or controul, in vain did his successors attempt to reduce them to military
+discipline and subjection. Three successive commanders were assassinated in
+their turn; and the Cossacks being thus in open rebellion to the Russian
+government, and with arms in their hands, were let loose upon the natives.
+The history of this country from that period, till the grand revolt of the
+Kamtschadales in 1731, presents one unvaried detail of massacres, revolts,
+and savage and sanguinary rencounters between small parties, from one end
+of the peninsula to the other.
+
+What led to this revolt, was the discovery of a passage from Okotzk to the
+Bolchoireka, which was first made by Cosmo Sokoloff, in the year 1715.
+Hitherto the Russians had no entrance into the country but on the side of
+Anadirsk; so that the natives had frequent opportunities of both plundering
+the tribute, as it was carried by so long a journey out of the peninsula,
+and harassing the troops in their march into it. But by the discovery of
+this communication, there existed a safe and speedy means, as well of
+exporting the tribute, as of importing the troops and military stores into
+the very heart of the country; which the natives easily saw gave the
+Russians so great an advantage, as must soon confirm their dominion, and
+therefore determined them to make one grand and immediate struggle for
+their liberty. The moment resolved upon for carrying their designs into
+execution, was when Beering should have set sail, who was at this time on
+the coast with a small squadron, and had dispatched all the troops that
+could well be spared from the country, to join Powloutski, in an expedition
+against the Tschutski. The opportunity was well chosen; and it is
+altogether surprising, that this conspiracy, which was so general, that
+every native in the peninsula is said to have had his share in it, was at
+the same time conducted with such secrecy, that the Russians had not the
+smallest suspicion that any thing hostile to their interests was in
+agitation. Their other measures were equally well taken. They had a strong
+body in readiness to cut off all communication with the fort Anadirsk; and
+the eastern coast was likewise lined with detached parties, with a view of
+seizing on any Russians that might by accident arrive from Okotzk. Things
+were in this state, when the commissary Cheekhaerdin marched from Verchnei
+with his tribute, escorted by the troops of the fort, for the mouth of the
+Kamtschatka river, where a vessel was lying to convey them to the Anadir.
+Besides waiting for the departure of Beering, the revolt was to be
+suspended till this vessel should be out at sea, notice of which was to be
+given to the different chiefs. Accordingly, the moment she was out of
+sight, they began to massacre every Russian and Cossack that came in their
+way, and to set fire to their houses. A large body ascended the river
+Kamtschatka; made themselves masters of the fort and _ostrog_ the
+commissary had just quitted; put to death all that were in it, and, except
+the church and the fort, reduced the whole to ashes. Here it was that they
+first learned that the Russian vessel, in which the commissary had
+embarked, was still on the coast, which, determined them to defend
+themselves in the fort. The wind fortunately soon brought the vessel back
+to the harbour; for had she proceeded in her voyage, nothing probably could
+have prevented the utter extirpation of the Russians. The Cossacks finding,
+on their landing, that their houses had been burnt to the ground, and their
+wives and children either massacred or carried off prisoners, were enraged
+to madness. They marched directly to the fort, which they attacked with
+great fury, and the natives as resolutely defended, till at length the
+powder-magazine taking fire, the fort was blown up, together with most of
+those that were in it. Various rencounters succeeded to this event, in
+which much blood was spilled on both sides. At length, two of the principal
+leaders being slain, and the third, (after dispatching his wife and
+children, to prevent their falling into the enemy's hand,) having put an
+end to himself, peace was established.
+
+From that period every thing went on very peaceably till the year 1740,
+when a few Russians lost their lives in a tumult, which was attended with
+no farther consequences; and, except the insurrection at Bolcheretsk, in
+1770, (which, has been already noticed,) there has been no disturbance
+since.
+
+Though the quelling the rebellion of 1731 was attended with the loss of a
+great number of inhabitants, yet I was informed that the country had
+recovered itself, and was become more populous than ever, when, in the year
+1767, the small-pox, brought by a soldier from Okotzk, broke out among them
+for the first time, marking its progress with ravages not less dreadful
+than the plague, and seeming to threaten their entire extirpation. They
+compute that near twenty thousand died of this disorder in Kamtschatka, the
+Koreki country, and the Kurile Islands. The inhabitants of whole villages
+were swept away. Of this we had sufficient proofs before our eyes. There
+are no less than eight ostrogs scattered about the bay of Awatska, all
+which, we were informed, had been fully inhabited, but are now entirely
+desolate, except Saint Peter and Saint Paul; and even that contains no more
+than seven Kamtschadales, who are tributary. At Paratounca ostrog there are
+but thirty-six native inhabitants, men, women, and children, which, before
+it was visited by the small-pox, we were told contained three hundred and
+sixty. In our road to Bolcheretsk, we passed four extensive ostrogs, with
+not an inhabitant in them. In the present diminished state of the natives,
+with fresh supplies of Russians and Cossacks perpetually pouring in, and
+who intermix with them by marriage, it is probable, that in less than half
+a century there will be very few of them left. By Major Behm's account,
+there are not now more than three thousand who pay tribute, the Kurile
+islanders included.[80]
+
+I understood that there are at this time, of the military, in the five
+forts of Nichnei, Verchnei, Tigil, Bolcheretsk, and Saint Peter and Saint
+Paul, about four hundred Russians and Cossacks, and near the same number at
+Ingiga, which, though to the north of the peninsula, is, I learned, at
+present under the commander of Kamtschatka; to these may be added the
+Russian traders and emigrants, whose numbers are not very considerable.
+
+The Russian government, established over this country, is mild and
+equitable, considered as a military one, in a very high degree. The natives
+are permitted to choose their own magistrates from among themselves, in the
+way, and with the same powers, they had ever been used. One of these, under
+the title of _Toion_, presides over each ostrog; is the referee in all
+differences; imposes fines, and inflicts punishments for all crimes and
+misdemeanours; referring to the governor of Kamtschatka such only as he
+does not choose, from their intricacy or heinousness, to decide upon
+himself. The Toion has likewise the appointment of a civil officer, called
+a corporal, who assists him in the execution of his office, and in his
+absence acts as his deputy.[81]
+
+By an edict of the empress, no crime whatsoever can be punished with death.
+But we were informed, that in cases of murder (of which there are very
+few), the punishment of the knout is administered with such severity, that
+the offender, for the most part, dies under it.
+
+The only tribute exacted (which can be considered as little more than an
+acknowledgment of the Russian dominion over them) consists, in some
+districts, of a fox's skin; in others, of a sable's; and in the Kurile
+Isles, of a sea-otter's; but as this is much the most valuable, one skin
+serves to pay the tribute of several persons. The Toions collect the
+tribute in their respective districts. Besides the mildness of their
+government, the Russians have a claim to every praise for the pains they
+have bestowed, and which have been attended with great success, in
+converting them to Christianity, there remaining at present very few
+idolaters among them. If we may judge of the other missionaries, from the
+hospitable and benevolent pastor of Paratounca (who is a native on the
+mother's side), more suitable persons could not be set over this business.
+It is needless to add, that the religion taught is that of the Greek
+church.[82] Schools are likewise established in many of the ostrogs, where
+the children of both the natives and Cossacks are gratuitously instructed
+in the Russian language. The commerce of this country, as far as concerns
+the exports, is entirely confined to furs, and carried on principally by a
+company of merchants, instituted by the empress. This company originally
+consisted of twelve, and three have been lately added to it. They are
+indulged with certain privileges, and distinguished by wearing a golden
+medal, as a mark of the empress's encouragement and protection of the fur-
+trade. Besides these, there are many inferior traders (particularly of the
+Cossacks) scattered through the country. The principal merchants for the
+time they are here, reside at Bolcheretsk, or the Nichnei ostrog, in which
+two places the trade almost wholly centers. Formerly this commerce was
+altogether carried on in the way of barter, but of late years every article
+is bought and sold for ready money only; and we were surprised at the
+quantity of specie in circulation in so poor a country. The furs sell at a
+high price, and the situation and habits of life of the natives call for
+few articles in return. Our sailors brought a great number of furs with
+them from the coast of America, and were not less astonished than delighted
+with the quantity of silver the merchants paid down for them; but on
+finding neither gin-shops to resort to, nor tobacco, nor any thing else
+that they cared for, to be had for money, the roubles soon became
+troublesome companions; and I often observed them kicking about the deck.
+The merchant I have already had occasion to mention, gave our men at first
+thirty roubles for a sea-otter's skin, and for others in proportion; but
+finding that they had considerable quantities to dispose of, and that he
+had men to deal with who did not know how to keep up the market, he
+afterward bought them for much less.
+
+The articles of importation are principally European, but not confined to
+Russian manufactures; many are English and Dutch; several likewise come
+from Siberia, Bucharia, the Calmucks, and China. They consist of coarse
+woollen and linen clothes, yarn-stockings, bonnets, and gloves; thin
+Persian silks; cottons, and pieces of nankeen, silk and cotton
+handkerchiefs; brass coppers and pans, iron-stoves, files, guns, powder,
+and shot; hardware, such as hatchets, bills, knives, scissars, needles;
+looking-glasses, flour, sugar; tanned hides, boots, &c. We had an
+opportunity of seeing a great many of these articles in the hands of a
+merchant, who came in the empress's galliot from Okotzk; and I shall only
+observe generally, that they sold for treble the price they might have been
+purchased for in England. And though the merchants have so large a profit
+upon these imported goods, they have a still larger upon the furs at
+Kiachta, upon the frontiers of China, which is the great market for them.
+The best sea-otter skins sell generally in Kamtschatka for about thirty
+roubles a-piece. The Chinese merchant at Kiachta purchases them at more
+than double that price, and sells them again at Pekin at a great advance,
+where a farther profitable trade is made with some of them to Japan. If,
+therefore, a skin is worth thirty roubles in Kamtschatka, to be transported
+first to Okotzk, thence to be conveyed by land to Kiachta, a distance of
+one thousand three-hundred and sixty-four miles; and thence on to Pekin,
+seven hundred and sixty miles more; and after this to be transported to
+Japan, what a prodigiously advantageous trade might be carried on between
+this place and Japan, which is about a fortnight's, or at most three weeks,
+sail from it?
+
+All furs exported from hence across the sea of Okotzk, pay a duty of ten
+per cent., and sables a duty of twelve. And all sorts of merchandise, of
+whatever denomination, imported from Okotzk, pay half a rouble for every
+pood.[83]
+
+The duties arising from the exports and imports, of which I could not learn
+the amount, are paid at Okotzk; but the tribute is collected at
+Bolcheretsk; and, I was informed by Major Behm, amounted in value to ten
+thousand roubles annually.
+
+There were six vessels (of from forty to fifty tons burthen) employed by
+the empress between Okotzk and Bolcheretsk; five of which are appropriated
+to the transporting of stores and provisions from Okotzk to Bolcheretsk;
+except that once in two or three years, some of them go round to Awatska
+and the Kamtschatka river; the sixth is only used as a packet-boat, and
+always kept in readiness, and properly equipped for conveying dispatches.
+Besides these, there are about fourteen vessels employed by the merchants
+in the fur-trade, amongst the islands to the eastward. One of these we
+found frozen up in the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, which was to
+sail on a trading voyage to Oonalashka, as soon as the season would
+permit.[84]
+
+It is here to be observed, that the most considerable and valuable part of
+the fur-trade is carried on with the islands that lie between Kamtschatka
+and America. These were first discovered by Beering, in 1741, and being
+found to abound with sea-otters, the Russian merchants became exceedingly
+eager in searching for the other islands seen by that navigator, to the
+S.E. of Kamtschatka, called in Muller's map the islands of Seduction, St
+Abraham, &c. In these expeditions they fell in with three groups of
+islands; the first about fifteen degrees to the east of Kamtschatka, in 53°
+N. latitude; the second about twelve degrees to the eastward of the former;
+and the third, Oonalashka, and the islands in its neighbourhood. These
+trading adventurers advanced also as far east as Shumagin's Islands (so
+called by Beering), the largest of which is named Kodiak. But here, as well
+as on the continent at Alashka, they met with so warm a reception in their
+attempts to compel the payment of a tribute, that they never afterward
+ventured so far. However they conquered, and made tributary the three
+groups before mentioned.
+
+In the Russian charts, the whole sea between Kamtschatka and America is
+covered with islands; for the adventurers in these expeditions frequently
+falling in with land, which they imagined did not agree with the situation
+of others laid down by preceding voyagers, immediately concluded it must be
+a new discovery, and reported it as such on their return; and, since the
+vessels employed in these expeditions were usually out three or four years,
+and oftentimes longer, these mistakes were not in the way of being soon
+rectified; It is, however, now pretty certain, that the islands already
+enumerated are all that have yet been discovered by the Russians in that
+sea, to the southward of 60° of latitude.
+
+It is from these islands that the sea-otter skins, the most valuable
+article of the fur-trade, are for the most part drawn; and as they are
+brought completely under the Russian dominion, the merchants have
+settlements upon them, where their factors reside, for the purpose of
+bartering with the natives. It was with a view to the farther increase and
+extension of this trade, that the admiralty of Okotzk fitted out an
+expedition for the purpose of making discoveries to the N. and N.E. of the
+islands above-mentioned, and gave the command of it, as I have already
+observed, to Lieutenant Synd. This gentleman, having directed his course
+too far to the northward, failed in the object of his voyage; for as we
+never saw the sea-otter to the northward of Bristol Bay, it seems probable,
+that they shun those latitudes where the larger kind of amphibious sea-
+animals abound. This was the last expedition undertaken by the Russians for
+prosecuting discoveries to the eastward; but they will undoubtedly make a
+proper use of the advantages we have opened to them, by the discovery of
+Cook's River.[85]
+
+Notwithstanding the general intercourse that for the last forty years hath
+taken place between the natives, the Russians, and Cossacks, the former are
+not more distinguished from the latter by their features and general
+figure, than by their habits and cast of mind. Of the persons of the
+natives, a description hath been already given, and I shall only add, that
+their stature is much below the common size. This Major Behm attributes, in
+a great measure, to their marrying so early; both sexes generally entering
+into the conjugal state at the age of thirteen or fourteen. Their industry
+is abundantly conspicuous, without being contrasted with the laziness of
+their Russian and Cossack inmates, who are fond of intermarrying with them,
+and, as it should seem, for no other reason, but that they may be supported
+in sloth and inactivity. To this want of bodily exertion may be attributed
+those dreadful scorbutic complaints, which none of them escape; whilst the
+natives, by constant exercise and toil in the open air, are entirely free
+from them.[86]
+
+Referring the reader for an account of the manners, customs, and
+superstitions of the Kamtschadales, at the time the Russians became first
+acquainted with this country, to Krascheninnikoff, I shall proceed to a
+description of their habitations and dress.
+
+The houses (if they may be allowed that name) are of three distinct sorts,
+_jourts_, _balagans_, and _loghouses_, called here _isbas_. The first are
+their winter, the second their summer habitations; the third are altogether
+of Russian introduction, and inhabited only by the better and wealthier
+sort.
+
+The _jourts_, or winter-habitations, are constructed in the following
+manner: An oblong square, of dimensions proportioned to the number of
+persons for whom it is intended, (for it is proper to observe, that several
+families live together in the same _jourt_,) is dug in the earth to the
+depth of about six feet. Within this space strong posts, or wooden pillars,
+are fastened in the ground, at proper distances from each other, on which
+are extended the beams for the support of the roof, which is formed by
+joists, resting on the ground with one end, and on the beams with the
+other. The interstices between the joists are filled up with a strong
+wicker-work, and the whole covered with turf; so that a _jourt_ has
+externally the appearance of a round squat hillock. A hole is left in the
+centre, which serves for chimney, window, and entrance, and the inhabitants
+pass in and out by means of a strong pole (instead of a ladder), notched
+just deep enough to afford a little holding to the toe. There is likewise
+another entrance in the side, even with the ground, for the convenience of
+the women; but if a man makes use of it, he subjects himself to the same
+disgrace and derision as a sailor would who descends through lubbers hole.
+The _jourt_ consists of one apartment, of the form of an oblong square.
+Along the sides are extended broad platforms made of boards, and raised
+about six inches from the ground, which they use as seats, and on which
+they go to rest, after strewing them with mats and skins. On one side is
+the fire-place, and the side opposite is entirely set apart for the stowage
+of provisions and kitchen-utensils. At their feasts, and ceremonious
+entertainments, the hotter the _jourts_ are made for the reception of the
+guests, the greater the compliment. We found them at all times so hot, as
+to make any length of stay in them to us intolerable. They betake
+themselves to the _jourts_ the middle of October; and, for the most part,
+continue in them till the middle of May.
+
+The _balagans_ are raised upon nine posts, fixed into the earth in three
+rows, at equal distances from one another, and about thirteen feet high
+from the surface. At the height of between nine and ten feet, rafters are
+passed from post to post, and firmly secured by strong ropes. On these
+rafters are laid the joists, and the whole being covered with turf,
+constitutes the platform or floor of the _balagan_. On this is raised a
+roof of a conical figure, by means of tall poles, fastened down to the
+rafters at one end, and meeting together in a point at the top, and
+thatched over with strong coarse grass. The _balagans_ have two doors
+placed opposite each other, and they ascend to them by the same sort of
+ladders they use in the _jourts_. The lower part is left entirely open; and
+within it they dry their fish, roots, vegetables, and other articles of
+winter consumption. The proportion of _jourts_ and _balagans_, is as one to
+six; so that six families generally live together in one _jourt_.
+
+The loghouses (_isbas_) are raised with long timbers piled horizontally,
+the ends being let into one another, and the seams caulked with moss. The
+roof is sloping like that of our common cottage-houses, and thatched with
+coarse grass or rushes. The inside consists of three apartments. At one end
+is what may be called the entry, which runs the whole width and height of
+the house, and is the receptacle of their sledges, harness, and other more
+bulky gears and household stuff. This communicates with the middle and best
+apartment, furnished with broad benches, for the purpose, as hath been
+above-mentioned, of both eating and sleeping upon. Out of this is a door
+into the kitchen; one half of which is taken up by the oven or fire-place,
+so contrived, by being let into the wall that separates the kitchen and the
+middle apartment, as to warm both at the same time. Over the middle
+apartment and kitchen are two lofts, to which they ascend by a ladder
+placed in the entry. There are two small windows in each apartment, made of
+talc, and in the houses of the poorer sort of fish-skin. The beams and
+boards of the cieling are dubbed smooth with a hatchet (for they are
+unacquainted with the plane), and from the effects of the smoke are as
+black and shining as jet.
+
+A town of Kamtschatka is called an _ostrog_, and consists of several of the
+three sorts of houses above described; but of which _balagans_ are much the
+most numerous; and I must observe, that I never met with a house of any
+kind detached from an _ostrog_. Saint Peter and Saint Paul consists of
+seven loghouses, or _isbas_, nineteen _balagans_, and three _jourts_.
+Paratounca is of about the same size. Karatchin and Natcheekin contain
+fewer loghouses, but full as many _jourts_ and _balagans_ as the former;
+from whence I conclude, that such is the usual size of the _ostrogs_.[87]
+
+Having already had occasion to mention the dress of the Kamtschadale women,
+I shall here confine myself to a description of that of the men.
+
+The outermost garment is of the shape of a carter's frock. Those worn in
+summer are of nankeen; in winter they are made of skins, most commonly of
+the deer or dog, tanned on one side, the hair being left on the other,
+which is worn innermost. Under this is a close jacket of nankeen, or other
+cotton stuffs; and beneath that a shirt of thin Persian silk, of a blue,
+red, or yellow colour. The remaining part of their dress consists of a pair
+of tight trowsers, or long breeches, of leather, reaching down to the calf
+of the leg; of a pair of dog or deer-skin boots, with the hair innermost;
+and of a fur-cap, with two flaps, which are generally tied up close to the
+head, but in bad weather are let to fall round the shoulders.
+
+The fur-dress presented to me by a son of Major Behm (as already
+mentioned), is one of those worn by the Toions, on ceremonious occasions.
+The form exactly resembles that of the common exterior garment just
+described. It is made of small triangular pieces of fur, chequered brown
+and white, and joined so neatly as to appear to be one skin. A border of
+six inches breadth, wrought with threads of different coloured leather, and
+producing a rich effect, surrounds the bottom, to which is suspended a
+broad edging of the sea-otter skin. The sleeves are turned up with the same
+materials; and there is likewise an edging of it round the neck, and down
+the opening at the breast. The lining is of a smooth white skin. A cap, a
+pair of gloves, and boots, wrought with the utmost degree of neatness, and
+made of the same materials, constitute the remainder of this suit. The
+Russians in Kamtschatka wear the European dress; and the uniform of the
+troops quartered here, is of a dark-green, faced with red.
+
+As the people, situated to the north and south of this country are yet
+imperfectly known, I shall conclude the account of Kamtschatka with such
+information concerning the Kurile Islands, and the Koreki and Tschutski, as
+I have been able to acquire.
+
+The chain of islands, running in a S.W. direction from the southern
+promontory of Kamtschatka to Japan, extending from latitude 51° to 45°, are
+called the Kuriles. They obtained this name from the inhabitants of the
+neighbourhood of Lopatka, who being themselves called Kuriles, gave their
+own name to these islands, on first becoming acquainted with them. They
+are, according to Spanberg, twenty-two in number, without reckoning the
+very small ones. The northernmost, called Shoomska, is not more than three
+leagues from the Promontory Lopatka, and its inhabitants are a mixture of
+natives and Kamtschadales. The next to the south, called Paramousir, is
+much larger than Shoomska, and inhabited by the true natives; their
+ancestors, according to a tradition among them, having come from an island
+a little farther to the south, called Onecutan. These two islands were
+first visited by the Russians in 1713, and at the same time brought under
+their dominion. The others, in order, are at present made tributary, down
+to Ooshesheer inclusive, as I am informed by the worthy pastor of
+Paratounca, who is their missionary, and visits them once in three years,
+and speaks of the islanders in terms of the highest commendation,
+representing them as a friendly, hospitable, generous, humane race of
+people, and excelling their Kamtschadale neighbours, not less in the
+formation of their bodies, than in docility and quickness of understanding.
+Though Ooshesheer is the southernmost island that the Russians have yet
+brought under their dominion, yet I understand that they trade to Ooroop,
+which is the eighteenth; and according to their accounts, the only one
+where there is a good harbour for ships of burthen. Beyond this, to the
+south, lies Nadeegsda, which was represented to us by the Russians as
+inhabited by a race of men remarkably hairy, and who, like those of Ooroop,
+live in a state of entire independence.[88]
+
+In the same direction, but inclining something more to the westward, lies a
+group of islands, which the Japanese call Jeso; a name which they also give
+to the whole chain of islands between Kamtschatka and Japan. The
+southernmost, called Matmai, hath been long subject to the Japanese, and is
+fortified and garrisoned on the side toward the continent. The two islands
+to the north-east of Matmai, Kunachir, and Zellany, and likewise the three
+still farther to the north-east, called the Three Sisters, are perfectly
+independent.
+
+A trade of barter is carried on between Matmai and the islands last
+mentioned; and between those again and the Kuriles to the northward; in
+which, for furs, dried fish, and oil, the latter get silk, cotton, iron,
+and Japanese articles of furniture.[89]
+
+The inhabitants of as many of the islands as are brought under the Russian
+dominion, are at present converted to Christianity. And probably the time
+is not very distant, when a friendly and profitable intercourse will be
+brought about between Kamtschatka and the whole of this chain of islands;
+and which will draw after it a communication with Japan itself. This may
+eventually be greatly facilitated by a circumstance related to me by Major
+Behm, that several Russians, who had been taught the Japanese language, by
+two men belonging to a vessel of that nation, which had been
+shipwrecked[90] on the coast of Kamtschatka, had been sent among those
+islands.
+
+The advantages that would accrue to the Russians by an immediate trade to
+Japan, have been already adverted to, and are too many, and too obvious, to
+need insisting upon.[91]
+
+The Koreki country includes two distinct nations, called the Wandering and
+Fixed Koriacs.
+
+The former inhabit the northern part of the isthmus of Kamtschatka, and the
+whole coast of the eastern ocean; from thence to the Anadir.
+
+The country of the Wandering Koriacks stretches along the north-east of the
+sea of Okotzk to the river Penskina, and westward toward the river Kovyma.
+
+The Fixed Koriacks have a strong resemblance to the Kamtschadales; and,
+like them, depend altogether on fishing for subsistence. Their dress and
+habitations are of the same kind. They are tributary to the Russians, and
+under the district of the Ingiga.
+
+The Wandering Koriacs occupy themselves entirely in breeding and pasturing
+deer, of which they are said to possess immense numbers; and that it is no
+unusual thing for an individual chief to have a herd of four or five
+thousand. They despise fish, and live entirely on deer. They have no
+balagans; and their only habitations are like the Kamtschadale jourts, with
+this difference, that they are covered with raw deer-skins in winter, and
+tanned ones in summer. Their sledges are drawn by deer, and never by dogs;
+which, like the latter, are likewise always spayed, in order to be trained
+to this business. The draft-deer pasture in company with the others; and
+when they are wanted, the huntsmen make use of a certain cry, which they
+instantly obey, by coming out of the herd.
+
+The priest of Paratounca informed me, that the two nations of the Koriacs,
+and the Tschutski, speak different dialects of the same language; and that
+it bears not the smallest resemblance to the Kamtschadale.
+
+The country of the Tschutski is bounded on the south by the Anadir, and
+extends along the coast to the Tschutskoi Noss. Like the Wandering
+Koriacks, their attention is principally confined to their deer, of which
+their country affords great numbers, both tame and wild. They are a stout,
+well-made, bold, warlike race of people; redoubtable neighbours to both
+nations of the Koriacs, who often feel the effects of their depredatory
+incursions. The Russians have for many years been using their endeavours to
+bring them under their dominion; and, after losing a great many men in
+their different expeditions for this purpose, have not been able to effect
+it.
+
+I shall here conclude this article, since all we can say of this people, on
+our own knowledge, hath been laid before the reader in the preceding
+volume.
+
+
+[78] It is proper to remark, that Atlassoff sent an advanced party, under
+    the command of a subaltern, called Lucas Moloskoff, who certainly
+    penetrated into Kamtschatka, and returned with an account of his
+    success before Atlassoff set out, and is therefore not unjustly
+    mentioned as the discoverer of Kamtschatka.
+
+[79] This river empties itself into the Jenesei.
+
+[80] Captain Krusenstern informs us, that the people in Kamtschatska, and
+    more especially the Kamtschadales, are decreasing in number very
+    rapidly, and from different causes. They are subject to several
+    epidemic complaints; one of which, he says, carried off upwards of
+    five thousand persons in the years 1800 and 1801. But the principal
+    causes of depopulation, which, if not speedily removed, threaten the
+    total extinction of the inhabitants, are not dependent on the
+    severity, or even any peculiar maladies of the climate. It is to the
+    excessive use of spirits, and an extraordinary disproportion in the
+    number of females, that this serious evil is to be chiefly imputed.
+    The great moral defect in the character of the native Kamtschadale, is
+    his propensity to drunkenness; in which, it will readily be believed,
+    he finds companions amongst his neighbours; and in which, still more
+    unfortunately, he is absolutely encouraged, for the most fraudulent
+    purposes, by the petty agents of the American Company, and the other
+    merchants in Kamtschatka. Nothing can be more infamous than what is
+    related by Krusenstern on this subject. Let the following description
+    suffice. It is applied by K. indeed to a state of matters which
+    formerly existed without controul, but which the government, he would
+    have us believe, has lately endeavoured to destroy. How far this
+    interference has availed, or is likely to avail, may be conjectured,
+    though not without some very painful emotions, from the circumstance
+    admitted by K. himself, that there are few Kamtschadales remaining on
+    whom its benefits can operate; and the opinion he has also given, that
+    before many years have elapsed, these few will perhaps have entirely
+    disappeared. "With no other wares," says this candid man, "than a
+    large quantity of very bad gin, the merchants travelled about the
+    country to procure furs. As soon as one of them arrived in an ostrog,
+    he treated his host with a glass of spirits. The Kamtschadales are all
+    so unfortunately attached to strong liquors, that it is absolutely
+    impossible for them to resist the pleasure of getting intoxicated. As
+    soon as he has drank a glass of gin, which he receives for nothing, he
+    instantly begs another, for which, however, he must pay; then a
+    second, a third, and so on. Still, however, he has had his spirits
+    unadulterated; but the moment he begins to be intoxicated, instead of
+    pure spirits, they give it him mixed with water; and in order that the
+    deception may be carried on with the more security, the merchants have
+    the vessels, destined for the spirits, called _fliäga_, divided into
+    two parts; in the smaller one of which they carry their unmixed
+    spirits, and in the other the mixed. The merchant now continues to ply
+    the Kamtschadale with the weaker liquor, until he becomes perfectly
+    senseless, and then takes possession of his whole stock of sables and
+    other furs, alleging, that they are to pay for the quantity of spirits
+    which he has drank. Thus, in an unfortunate moment, the Kamtschadale
+    loses the reward of many months labour and cost; and, instead of
+    providing himself with powder and shot, and other necessary and
+    indispensable articles, such as would have contributed to his own and
+    his family's comfort, he has exhausted all his wealth for one debauch,
+    which only weakens him, and renders him more helpless and destitute
+    for the future. This wretchedness is accompanied by a depression of
+    spirits, which must have a pernicious influence on his body, already
+    weakened by disease, and which, at length, from the total want of
+    substantial food, and of medical assistance, becomes unable to resist
+    such frequent attacks upon it. This appears to me the cause of their
+    annual decrease, assisted by epidemical disorders, which sweep them
+    off in great numbers." But another cause has been assigned in addition
+    to this very deplorable one, and this it may now be necessary to
+    specify a little more particularly. Let the words of the same writer
+    be taken in evidence, and we may say we have very little reason indeed
+    to give ourselves any concern about the condition of the people in
+    this distant settlement.--"The prospect of any increase of the
+    inhabitants of Kamtschatka was very much diminished, not only by the
+    smallness of the number of the remaining Russians and Kamtschadales,
+    but by that of the women bearing no kind of proportion to the men. At
+    Saint Peter and Saint Paul, where the number of inhabitants, including
+    the military, amounts to one hundred and fifty, or one hundred and
+    eighty persons, there are not five-and-twenty females. It frequently
+    happens, that the company's ships and transports winter here, and the
+    number of men is often increased to five hundred; while, on the other
+    hand, that of the women remains always the same. The consequences of
+    this pernicious disproportion are unproductive marriages, and a total
+    decline of all morals. I do not remember to have seen more than five
+    or six children at Kamtschatka, and these partly belonged to the
+    officers, and partly to such of the inhabitants as had distinguished
+    themselves by their exemplary conduct. All the marriages, with the
+    exception of three or four, were entirely unproductive." It is almost
+    needless to remark, that if the suggestions which Krusenstern has
+    given, have not been adopted and acted on, the superiority of the
+    diminishing agents will have wrought such an effect since his visit,
+    as may render it problematical whether or not this country ought to be
+    reckoned amongst the inhabited regions of the earth.--E.
+
+[81] The Tayon, or Toyon, according to Krusenstern, is a person chosen from
+    amongst the inhabitants, and has a character somewhat similar to that
+    of _starost_, or elder, in the Russian villages. He has an officer
+    under him, who bears the title of _jessaul_, the corporal of the tent,
+    who, properly speaking, holds the executive authority of the ostrog,
+    as the tayon seldom does more than deliver orders to him. When the
+    tayon is absent, the jessaul assumes his place, and is supported by
+    the eldest Kamtschadale in the ostrog, who, for the time being,
+    becomes his substitute as jessaul. The power of the tayon is said to
+    be considerable, extending to the infliction of corporal punishment,
+    not, however, exceeding twenty lashes; and his duty, in addition to
+    the internal administration of his ostrog, consists in collecting the
+    best sables as a tribute to the government, and carrying them to town,
+    where they are examined by certain magistrates, appointed for the
+    purpose, and afterwards taxed by a person authorised by the crown.
+    Enough has been already shewn, it may be thought, for calling in
+    question the mildness, or at least the good policy, of the government
+    established here. A circumstance is mentioned by Krusenstern, which
+    seems to imply something very different, though lately modified, we
+    are told, and not without reason, as, to use his own words, it is
+    surprising that people could have endured it for a single hour. It may
+    be explained in a few words. The capitation tax, which is common
+    throughout the Russian empire, is levied according to a census, or
+    revision, which is generally taken every twenty years. Where the
+    population is on the increase, this is manifestly an advantage to the
+    subjects, who would necessarily have more to pay, if the imposition
+    were accurately adjusted to the annual augmentation of numbers. But
+    the operation of the principle becomes peculiarly oppressive, where,
+    on the contrary, as in Kamtschatka, the population has been gradually
+    diminishing, and, during some years, had been rapidly reduced. Thus,
+    in many of the ostrogs, we are told, that the inhabitants had declined
+    from thirty or forty, to eight or ten; and yet the tribute continued
+    to be levied on the remainder, according to the preceding census! This
+    was, in reality, the _caput mortuum_ of taxation, and perhaps was
+    never equalled, at least never surpassed, in absurdity, by the _ways
+    and means_ of any other government. Had this system continued for any
+    length of time, it is probable, that one or two individuals would at
+    length have had the _supreme_ felicity of being in reality the
+    representatives of a whole nation, and of course of paying for the
+    extraordinary honour. This reminds one of a curious enough occurrence
+    said to have happened after a battle in Germany, in which a regiment,
+    belonging to the Earl of Tyrconnel, had been engaged. A general muster
+    having taken place, his Lordship's regiment was of course called for,
+    when a soldier, stepping from the ranks, immediately replied, "I am
+    Lord Tyrconnel's regiment!" In fact, the poor fellow was the only
+    responsible survivor.--E.
+
+[82] Krusenstern, who, as we have seen, is far from sparing the laity in
+    the distribution of his censures, makes every bit as free with the
+    clergy. "The priest of St Peter and St Paul," says he, "was a scandal
+    to his profession; in the interior, they are said to be no better, and
+    to be particularly obnoxious to the Kamtschadales." This is a serious
+    evil, no doubt, but it may reasonably be expected to cease with the
+    complaints of the parishioners, as it is very unlikely that at
+    Kamtschatka as elsewhere, there should be found any shepherds without
+    flocks. To be sure, in some other countries, where this occasionally
+    happens, there is this important difference, that the pasture at least
+    is worth looking after!--E.
+
+[83] Thirty-six pounds English.
+
+[84] This description, little as it may excite any high opinion of the
+    prosperity of the place, is nevertheless nearly a contrast to that
+    which Krusenstern has given. "The first prospect of St Peter and St
+    Paul might raise in the mind of a person newly arrived, and ignorant
+    of the history of this Russian establishment, the idea of its being a
+    colony founded a few years before, but recently abandoned. Nothing is
+    visible here that could at all persuade any one of its being inhabited
+    by civilized people; not only Awatska Bay, but the three adjoining
+    ones, are entirely forlorn and uninhabited; nor is the beautiful
+    harbour of St Peter and St Paul enlivened by a single boat. Instead of
+    this, the shores are strewed with stinking fish, among which a number
+    of half-starved dogs are seen wallowing, and contending for
+    possession. Two baidars belonging to the port, and hauled on shore at
+    a low sandy point of land, would be an additional proof of the infancy
+    of this colony; if, at the same time, you did not perceive the wreck
+    of a three-masted ship, bearing evident marks of having been in its
+    present condition for some years. This is the Slawa Rossi, the ship
+    which Captain Billing commanded, but which, after the completion of
+    his voyage, foundered in the harbour from want of care. The appearance
+    immediately brings to mind the celebrated Behring, who, seventy years
+    before, commenced his voyage of discovery from this port; But not only
+    the two baidars, but the sinking of the ship itself, are too clear a
+    proof that the nautical concerns of this colony are still in a state
+    of infancy." Krusenstern's descriptions, we see, come after King's,
+    somewhat in the manner of Holbein's Dance of Death, after whatever was
+    promising or agreeable!--E.
+
+[85] In Mr Coxe's work, we have accounts of three voyages subsequent to
+    Synd's, viz. those of Shelekof, of Ismaelof and Betsharoff, and of
+    Billings, all of which were performed betwixt 1778 and 1792. The
+    second of these, according to Mr Coxe's opinion, is by far the most
+    interesting of any yet made by the Russians. The last, which was of
+    very long continuance, and occasioned an enormous expence to the
+    government, did not fully answer the expectations entertained of it.
+    The commander, an Englishman, is not spoken highly of by Krusenstern,
+    who tells us, indeed, that, among the Russian naval officers, there
+    were many who would have conducted the expedition much more creditably
+    than he did. This may, no doubt, be very true. But how comes it, that
+    they were not known in time to be employed? Or, admitting that they
+    were known for superiority of talents, but that some reasons,
+    independent of any consideration of respective qualifications, decided
+    against their being employed, who was to blame, it may be asked, in
+    selecting an incompetent, or at least an inferior person, for the
+    command of so important an undertaking? Captain Krusenstern may be a
+    very able officer; indeed, no one can read his work without
+    entertaining a high opinion of his moral and professional character.
+    It is shrewdly to be suspected, however, that he is somewhat deficient
+    in that prophetic eye of wise policy, which at one glance can
+    ascertain the effects and consequences of one's own assertions and
+    reasonings. It is not thought advisable to enter upon the
+    consideration of the subject now adverted to by Captain King, as a
+    fitter opportunity will in all probability present itself for the
+    necessary discussion.--E.
+
+[86] Captain Krusenstern, as may have been already perceived, thinks very
+    highly of the Kamtschadale character. In his judgment, the only
+    objection to it applies to that superinduced propensity in which the
+    avaricious merchant has so often found his account, though to the ruin
+    of the unthinking individuals subjected to his temptations. Their
+    honesty is greatly extolled; and a cheat is as rare among the
+    Kamtschadales as a man of property. So great is the confidence placed
+    in them in this respect, that it is quite usual, we are told, for
+    travellers, on arriving at an ostrog, to give their whole effects,
+    even their stock of _brandy_, &c. into the hands of the tayon, and
+    there is no instance of any one having been robbed to the smallest
+    extent. "Lieutenant Koscheleff," says K., "with his accustomed
+    simplicity, told me that he had once been sent by his brother, the
+    governor, with thirteen thousand roubles to distribute among the
+    different towns; that every evening he made over his box with the
+    money to the tayon of the ostrog where he slept, and felt much easier,
+    having so disposed of it, _than he would perhaps have done in any inn
+    in St Petersburgh_." No doubt, the superior purity of the country air
+    would occasion some difference in his feelings! The hospitality of the
+    Kamtschadales forms another topic of eulogium. With such moral
+    virtues, then, in alliance with great industry, and considerable
+    intelligence, it is not to be wondered, that Krusenstern should speak
+    of the probable extinction of this race as a most alarming calamity.
+    But we have seen that hitherto little care has been manifested to
+    prevent its occurrence. The very subject we are now on presents us
+    with another sample of the gross impolicy, not to speak of inhumanity
+    or injustice, that has been shewn towards these most valuable people.
+    The following passage from Krusenstern may be allowed to warrant the
+    most severe opinion we can possibly form of any government, that could
+    require such services from _its slaves_. "The necessity of the
+    Kamtschadales in Kamtschatka is sufficiently proved, by their being
+    every where the guides through the country, and by their conveying the
+    mail, which they do likewise, free of expence. In the winter, they are
+    obliged to conduct travellers and estafettes from one ostrog to
+    another; they supply the dogs of those who travel with jukulla; they
+    also lodge the travellers; this, however, they are not obliged to do.
+    This hospitable people has, of its own accord, engaged to lodge every
+    traveller, and to feed his dogs, without demanding any remuneration.
+    In every ostrog there is a supply of fish set apart for this purpose.
+    In general, the governor and all officers keep dogs, so that in this
+    respect they are not burthen-some to the Kamtschadales; but a story is
+    told of a magistrate high in office, having been here a short time
+    since, who never travelled but in a sledge like a small house, drawn
+    by an hundred dogs. Besides this, he is said to have journeyed with
+    such rapidity, that at every station several of these animals
+    belonging to the Kamtschadales expired, which he never paid for. In
+    the summer, the Kamtschadale is obliged to be always ready with his
+    boat to conduct the traveller either up or down the rivers; nor can
+    the soldier be sent any where without having one of these people for
+    his guide. Thus it frequently happens that they are absent a fortnight
+    or more from their ostrog, and lose the best opportunity of providing
+    themselves with fish for the winter, as, besides the mere act of
+    taking the fish, it requires several days of fine summer weather to
+    dry them. If the wet should set in, during this operation, the fish
+    instantly becomes magotty, and the whole stock is rendered useless.
+    From the great numbers of soldiers, (as, besides the cossacks, there
+    is a battalion of five hundred men, and about twenty officers,
+    quartered in Kamtschatka), and the small number of Kamtschadales, it
+    must be sufficiently evident, that the latter are frequently taken
+    from their work, and, it may be added, almost without remuneration;
+    for the post-money allowed by the crown, which amounts to one kopeck
+    the werst, considering the high price of every article, is, surely,
+    not only an inconsiderable, but an insulting reward for the service
+    performed," Thus far K. To some readers, it may be necessary to
+    mention, in order to their due understanding of this reward, that 100
+    kopecks make a rouble, the value of which varies according to the rate
+    of exchange from 2s. 6d. to 4s. 2d. British, having been so low as the
+    former rate in the year 1803, and that three wersts are about equal to
+    two English miles, so that we may fairly enough estimate this insult,
+    as K. expresses it, at one half-penny per mile!--E.
+
+[87] Krusenstern's description of the houses and their contents is exactly
+    in proportion to the other parts of his very unfavourable report. Even
+    of two of them, which he says are the very ornament of Kamtschatka,
+    the furniture is represented as most wretchedly deficient. "That of
+    the anti-room consisted merely of a wooden stool, a table, and two or
+    three broken chairs. There was neither earthen-ware nor porcelain
+    table-service; no glasses, decanters, nor any thing else of a similar
+    nature; two or three tea-cups, one glass, a few broken knives and
+    forks, and some pewter spoons, constituted the wealth of the good
+    people (two artillery officers) who were both married. But what most
+    of all distressed me, was the condition of their windows; they had not
+    double sashes, which, in a cold climate, are as necessary to health as
+    to comfort; but such even as they had, were in a very wretched
+    condition. The panes were of glass, but notwithstanding their extreme
+    smallness, they were all of them broken, and made of pieces fitted
+    together. They afforded no protection against the snow and frost; and
+    I could not, without feelings of commiseration, behold the children,
+    who, in no part of the world, are brought up so wretchedly as here."
+    If such were the condition of the best houses, we shall have little
+    reason, for the sake of any pleasure at least, to make any enquiry as
+    to those of an inferior kind, belonging to the other inhabitants. It
+    is perhaps enough then to say in general terms, that they are all ill
+    built, that they are so low, as to be entirely covered up with snow
+    during the winter, and that in consequence of this circumstance, they
+    are throughout that period completely deprived of the fresh air, to
+    which want, and to the badness of their provisions, it is
+    unquestionably with perfect truth that K. ascribes the pallid hue of
+    all the inhabitants, even, as he adds, of the youngest females. The
+    construction of a house at St Peter and St Paul, we are further told,
+    is very expensive, as there is no suitable timber in the neighbourhood
+    of the town, and the people are consequently necessitated to bring it
+    from the interior. It is in this manner that thirty or forty soldiers
+    are employed, when any public building is to be erected. They are sent
+    out under the command of an officer, and for several weeks, during
+    which time, and at imminent risk, they fell the timber, and float it
+    down the rivers. Thus says K., "the whole garrison of Kamtschatka had
+    been occupied during two years in building some barracks for ten or
+    twelve men, nor were they even then completed; and the church, on
+    which they had been several years employed, was in the same
+    predicament!" It is, no doubt, a very natural consequence of such slow
+    procedure, that, before a building is quite finished, some part of it
+    falls to pieces. Some persons have suggested the use of bricks in
+    place of timber, and it seems pretty obvious, from K.'s account, that
+    this is quite practicable. It may well be doubted, however; if either
+    the prejudices or the indolence of the people will yield to the
+    innovation; and much more, indeed, may it be doubted, if the people in
+    fact will ever require more houses than those which already exist. If
+    they should, notwithstanding such weighty evidence as has been adduced
+    to the contrary, the advice which K. has given on the subject, would
+    deserve the serious consideration of the government.--E.
+
+[88] Spanberg places the island here spoken of in 43° 50' N. latitude, and
+    mentions his having watered upon it; and that this watering-party
+    brought off eight of the natives; of whom he relates the following
+    circumstances: That their bodies were covered all over with hair; that
+    they wore a loose striped silk gown, reaching as low as their ankles;
+    and that some of them had silver rings pendant from the ears; that, on
+    spying a live cock on deck, they fell down on their knees before it;
+    and likewise, before the presents that were bronght out to them,
+    closing and stretching forth their hands, and bowing their heads, at
+    the same time, down to the ground; that, except the peculiarity of
+    their hairiness, they resemble the other Kurile islanders in their
+    features and figure, and spoke the same language. The journal of the
+    ship Castricom also mentions this circumstance, of the inhabitants of
+    the country discovered by them, and called Jeso, being hairy all over
+    the body.
+
+[89] This accounts for what Krascheninnikoff says, that he got from
+    Paramousir a japanned table and vase, a scymeter, and a silver ring,
+    which he sent to the cabinet of her imperial majesty, at Petersburg.
+    And if what Mr Steller mentions, on the authority of a Kurile, who was
+    interpreter to Spanberg in his voyage to Japan, is to be credited,
+    that nearly the same language is spoken at Kunashir and Paramousir, it
+    cannot be questioned, that some intercourse has always subsisted
+    between the inhabitants of this extensive chain of islands.
+
+[90] The vessel here spoken of was from Satsma, a port in Japan, bound for
+    another Japanese port, called Azaka, and laden with rice, cotton, and
+    silks. She sailed with a favourable wind; but, before she reached her
+    destination, was driven out to sea by a violent storm, which carried
+    away her masts and rudder.
+
+    On the storm's abating, not one of the crew, which consisted of
+    seventeen (having probably never made any other than coasting
+    voyages), knew where they were, or what course to steer. After
+    remaining in this situation six months, they were driven on shore near
+    the promontory Lopatka; and having cast out an anchor, began to carry
+    on shore such articles as were necessary to their existence. They next
+    erected a tent, and had remained in it twenty-three days without
+    seeing a human being; when chance conducted a cossack officer, called
+    Andrew Chinnikoff, with a few Kamtschadales, to their habitation. The
+    poor unfortunate Japanese, overwhelmed with joy at the sight of fellow
+    creatures, made the most significant tenders, they were able, of
+    friendship and affection; and presented their visitors with silks,
+    sabres, and a part of whatever else they had brought from the ship.
+    The treacherous Chinnikoff made reciprocal returns of kindness and
+    good-will; and, after remaining with them long enough to make such
+    observations as suited his designs, withdrew from them in the night.
+    The Japanese, finding that their visitors did not return, knew not
+    what course to take. In despair they manned their boat, and were
+    rowing along the coast in search of a habitation, when they came up
+    with their vessel, which had been driven ashore; and found Chinnikoff
+    and his companions pillaging her, and pulling her in pieces for the
+    sake of the iron. This sight determined them to continue their course,
+    which Chinnikoff perceiving, ordered his men to pursue and massacre
+    them. The unfortunate Japanese, seeing a canoe in pursuit, and which
+    they could not escape, apprehended what was to follow. Some of them
+    leaped into the sea; others, in vain, had recourse to prayers and
+    entreaties. They were all massacred but two, by the very sabres they
+    had presented to their supposed friends a few days before. One of the
+    two was a boy about eleven years old, named Gowga, who had accompanied
+    his father, the ship's pilot, to learn navigation; the other was a
+    middle-aged man, the supercargo, and called Sosa.
+
+    Chinnikoff soon met with the punishment due to his crimes. The two
+    strangers were conducted to Petersburgh, where they were sent to the
+    academy, with proper instructors and attendants; and several young men
+    were, at the same time, put about them for the purpose of learning the
+    Japanese language.
+
+    They were thrown on the coast of Kamtschatka in 1730. The younger
+    survived the absence from his country five, the other six years. Their
+    portraits are to be seen in the cabinet of the empress at
+    Petersburgh.--Vid. Krascheninnikoff, vol. ii. part 4. Fr. Ed.
+
+[91] Attempts have been made at different periods by the Russians to open
+    up a trade with Japan; and, indeed, one purpose of the voyage which
+    Captain Krusenstern undertook, was to conciliate the emperor or
+    government of that island. No one, who is at all acquainted with the
+    history of the people, will be surprised to learn that the Japanese
+    did not think themselves honoured by the embassy; that they even
+    refused the presents which had been carried out, and would not concede
+    the favour of an alliance which was courted. The result of the whole,
+    in fact, was rather a loss than a gain, as a permission which had been
+    previously given to visit Nangasaky was withdrawn. Thus, says K., "all
+    communication is now at an end between Japan and Russia, unless some
+    great change should take place in the ministry of Jeddo, or, indeed,
+    in the government itself, and this is perhaps not to be expected." We
+    are told, however, in a note, that some revolution is understood
+    actually to have taken place after this visit, and that too in
+    consequence of this dismissal of the Russian embassy. This is said on
+    the authority of a Lieutenant Chwostoff, who heard of it from the
+    Japanese, when he visited the northern coast of Jesso in 1806 and
+    1807. But as no particulars are mentioned, and as, indeed, the thing
+    is somewhat unlikely, one may be allowed to call in question the truth
+    of the report. The Russians then, like, the Spaniards, Portugueze,
+    English, and Americans, have utterly failed in establishing any
+    commercial intercourse with Japan; and the Dutch alone, of any of the
+    European nations, have continued, by virtue of their _bowing
+    propensities_, &c., to profit by a direct connection with it.--E.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION VIII.
+
+
+Plan of our future Proceedings.--Course to the Southward, alone the Coast
+of Kamtschatka.--Cape Lopatka.--Pass the Islands Shoomska and Paramousir.--
+Driven to the Eastward of the Kuriles.--Singular Situation with respect to
+the pretended Discoveries of former Navigators.--Fruitless Attempts to
+reach the Islands North of Japan.--Geographical Conclusions.--View of the
+Coast of Japan.--Run along the East Side.--Pass two Japanese Vessels.--
+Driven off the Coast by contrary Winds.--Extraordinary Effect of
+Currents.--Steer for the Bashees.--Pass large Quantities of Pumice Stone.--
+Discover Sulphur Island.--Pass the Pratas.--Isles of Lema, and Ladrone
+Island.--Chinese Pilot taken on board the Resolution.--Journals of the
+Officers and Men secured.[92]
+
+
+Our instructions from the Board of Admiralty having left a discretionary
+power with the commanding-officer of the expedition, in case of failure in
+the search of a passage from the Pacific into the Atlantic Ocean, to return
+to England, by whatever route he should think best for the farther
+improvement of geography, Captain Gore demanded of the principal officers
+their sentiments, in writing, respecting the manner in which these orders
+might most effectually be obeyed. The result of our opinions, which he had
+the satisfaction to find unanimous, and entirely coinciding with his own,
+was, that the condition of the ships, of the sails, and cordage, made it
+unsafe to attempt, at so advanced a season of the year, to navigate the sea
+between Japan and Asia; which would otherwise have afforded the largest
+field for discovery; that it was therefore adviseable to keep to the
+eastward of that island, and in our way thither to run along the Kuriles,
+and examine more particularly the islands that lie nearest the northern
+coast of Japan, which are represented as of a considerable size, and
+independent of the Russian and Japanese governments. Should we be so
+fortunate as to find in these any safe and commodious harbours, we
+conceived they might be of importance, either as places of shelter for any
+future navigators, who may be employed in exploring the seas, or as the
+means of opening a commercial intercourse among the neighbouring dominions
+of the two empires. Our next object was to survey the coast of the Japanese
+Islands, and afterward to make the coast of China, as far to the northward
+as we were able, and run along it to Macao.
+
+This plan being adopted, I received orders from Captain Gore, in case of
+separation, to proceed immediately to Macao; and at six o'clock in the
+evening of the 9th of October, having cleared the entrance of Awatska Bay,
+we steered to the S.E., with the wind N.W. and by W. At midnight we had a
+dead calm, which continued till noon of the 10th; the light-house at this
+time bearing N. 1/2 W., distant five leagues, and Cape Gavareea, S. by W.
+1/2 W. Being luckily in soundings of sixty and seventy fathoms water, we
+employed our time very profitably in catching cod, which were exceedingly
+fine and plentiful; and at three in the afternoon, a breeze sprung up from
+the W., with which we stood along the coast to the southward. A head-land,
+bearing S. by W., now opened with Cape Gavareea, lying about seven leagues
+beyond it. Between them are two narrow, but deep inlets, which may probably
+unite behind what appears to be an high island. The coast of these inlets
+is steep and cliffy. The hills break abruptly, and form chasms and deep
+vallies, which are well wooded. Between Cape Gavareea (which lies in
+latitude 52° 21', longitude 158° 38') and Awatska Bay, there are
+appearances of several inlets, which at first sight may flatter the mariner
+with hopes of finding shelter and safe anchorage; but the Russian pilots
+assured us, that there are none capable of admitting vessels of the
+smallest size, as the low land fills up the spaces that appear vacant
+between the high projecting head-lands. Toward evening, it again became
+calm; but at midnight we had a light breeze from the N., which increased
+gradually to a strong gale; and at noon the next day we found ourselves in
+latitude 52° 4', longitude 158° 31', when Cape Gavareea bore N. by W. 1/4,
+W.; the south extreme, S.W. 1/2 W. We were at this time distant from the
+nearest shore about three leagues, and saw the whole country inland covered
+with snow. A point of land to the southward, which we place in latitude 51°
+54', formed the north side of a deep bay, called Achachinskoi, in the
+distant bottom of which we supposed a large river to empty itself, from the
+land behind being so unusually low. South of Achachinskoi Bay, the land is
+not so rugged and barren as that part of the country which we had before
+passed.
+
+During the night we had variable winds and rain; but at four in the morning
+of the 12th, it began to blow so strong from the N.E., as to oblige us to
+double reef the top-sails, and make it prudent to stand more off the shore.
+At six, the weather becoming more moderate and fair, we again made sail,
+and stood in for the land. At noon, our latitude was 51° 0', longitude 157°
+25'. The northernmost land in sight, being the point we have mentioned as
+first opening with Cape Gavareea, bore N.N.E. A head-land, with a flat top,
+which is in latitude 51° 27', and makes the south point of an inlet, called
+Girowara, bore N. 1/4 E.,.and the southernmost land in sight, W.3/4 N.,
+distant six leagues. At this time we could just perceive low land
+stretching from the southern extreme; but the wind veering round to the
+N.W., we could not get a nearer view of it. At six in the afternoon we saw,
+from the mast-head, Cape Lopatka, the southernmost extremity of
+Kamtschatka. It is a very low flat cape, sloping gradually from the high
+level land that we saw at noon, and bore W.N., about five leagues distant;
+and the high land, N.W. by W. 1/2 W. As this point of land forms so marked
+an object in the geography of the eastern coast of Asia, we were glad to be
+able, by an accurate observation, and several good angles, to determine its
+precise situation, which is in latitude 51° 0', longitude 156° 45'. To the
+N.W. of it we saw a remarkably high mountain, the top of which loses itself
+in the clouds; and, at the same time, the first of the Kurile Islands,
+called Shoomska, appeared in sight, bearing W. 1/2 S. The passage between
+this island and Cape Lopatka, the Russians describe as being three miles
+broad, and very dangerous on account of the rapidity of the tides, and the
+sunk rocks that are off the cape. From Cape Gavareea to Lopatka, the coast
+trends S.E. South of Achachinskoi, the land is not so high and broken as
+between that bay and the mouth of Awatska, being only of a moderate
+elevation toward the sea, with hills gradually rising farther back in the
+country. The coast is steep and bold, and full of white chalky patches.
+
+At noon, the weather falling again to a calm, afforded us an opportunity of
+catching some fine cod. We were, at this time, in forty fathoms water, and
+about five or six leagues from Cape Lopatka. Both in the fore and
+afternoon, we had observations, with different compasses, for the
+variation, and found it to be 5° 20' E.
+
+We stood on all night, under an easy sail, to the S.S.W., having the wind
+westerly. At midnight we sounded, and had sixty fathoms; and, at day-break
+of the 13th, we saw the second of the Kurile Islands, (called by the
+Russians Paramousir,) extending from N.W. by W. to W. 1/2 S. This land is
+very high, and almost entirely covered with snow. At noon, the extremes
+bore from N.N.W. 1/2 W. to W.N.W. 1/2 W.; and a high peaked mountain, from
+which some thought they saw smoke issuing, N.W. by W. 1/2 W., about twelve
+or fourteen leagues distant. At this time our latitude, by observation, was
+49° 49', and our longitude 157° O'. In the course of the day we saw many
+gulls and albatrosses, and several whales.
+
+Paramousir is the largest of the Kuriles under the dominion of Russia, and
+well deserves a more accurate survey, than we were at this time allowed to
+take. For, in the afternoon, the gale increasing from the W., we were never
+able to approach it nearer than we had done at noon; and were, therefore,
+obliged to be contented with endeavouring to ascertain its situation at
+that distance. We place the S. end of the island in latitude 49° 58', the
+N. end in latitude 50° 46', and in longitude 10' W. of Lopatka; and as this
+position is found not to differ materially from that given by the Russians,
+it is probably very near the truth. Whilst we were abreast of this island,
+we had a very heavy swell from the N.E., though the wind had, for some
+time, been from the westward, a circumstance which we have already remarked
+more than once during the course of our voyage. In the night we tried for
+soundings, but found no ground with fifty fathoms of line.
+
+On the 14th and 15th, the wind blowing steadily and fresh from the
+westward, we were obliged to stand to the southward; and consequently
+hindered from seeing any more of the Kurile Islands. At noon of the 16th,
+the latitude, by observation, was 45° 27', the longitude, deduced from a
+number of lunar observations taken during the three days past, 155° 3O'.
+The variation 4° 30' E. In this situation, we were almost surrounded by the
+supposed discoveries of former navigators, and uncertain to which we should
+turn ourselves. To the southward and the S.W. were placed, in the French
+charts, a group of five islands, called the Three Sisters, Zellany and
+Kunashir. We were about ten leagues, according to the same maps, to the
+westward of the land of De Gama, which we had passed to the eastward in
+April last, at a distance rather less than this, without seeing any
+appearance of it; from which circumstance we may now conclude, that, if
+such land exist at all, it must be an island of a very inconsiderable
+size.[93] On the other hand, if we give credit to the original position of
+this land, fixed by Texiera, it lay to the W. by S.; and as the Company's
+Land,[94] Staten Island,[95] and the famous land of Jeso,[96] were also
+supposed to lie nearly in the same direction, together with the group first
+mentioned, according to the Russian charts, we thought this course deserved
+the preference, and accordingly hauled round to the westward, the wind
+having shifted in the afternoon to the northward. During this day we saw
+large flocks of gulls, several albatrosses, fulmars, and a number of fish,
+which our sailors called grampuses; but, as far as we could judge, from the
+appearance of those that passed close by the ships, we imagined them to be
+the _kasatka_, or sword-fish, described by Krascheninnikoff, to whom I
+refer the reader, for a curious account of the manner in which they attack
+the whales. In the evening, a visit from a small land-bird, about the size
+of a goldfinch, and resembling that bird in shape and plumage, made us keep
+a good look-out for land. However, at midnight, on trying for soundings, we
+found no ground with forty-five fathoms of line.
+
+On the 17th, at noon, we were in latitude 45° 7', by observation, longitude
+154° 0'. The wind now again coming to the westward, obliged us to steer a
+more southerly course; and, at midnight, it blew from that quarter a fresh
+gale, accompanied with heavy rain. In the morning, we saw another land-
+bird, and many flocks of gulls and peterels bending their course to the
+S.W. The heavy N.E. swell, with which we had constantly laboured since our
+departure from Lopatka, now ceased, and changed suddenly to the S.E. In the
+forenoon of the 18th; we passed great quantities of rock-weed, from which,
+and the flights of birds above-mentioned, we conjectured we were at no
+great distance from the southernmost of the Kuriles; and, at the same time,
+the wind coming round to the S., enabled us to stand in for it. At two, we
+set studding-sails, and steered W.; but the wind increasing to a gale, soon
+obliged as to double reef the top-sails; and, at midnight, we judged it
+necessary to try for soundings. Accordingly we hove to; but, finding no
+bottom at seventy-five fathoms, we were encouraged to persevere, and again
+bore away W., with the wind at S.E. This course we kept till two in the
+morning, when the weather becoming thick, we hauled our wind, and steered
+to the S.W. till five, when a violent storm reduced us to our courses.
+
+Notwithstanding the unfavourable state of the weather left us little
+prospect of making the land, we still kept this object anxiously in view;
+and, at day-light, ventured to steer W. by S., and continued to stand on in
+this direction till ten in the forenoon, when the wind, suddenly shifting
+to the S.W., brought with it clear weather. Of this we had scarcely taken
+advantage, by setting the top-sails, and letting out the reefs, when it
+began to blow so strong from this quarter, that we were forced to close-
+reef again; and, at noon, the wind shifting two points to the W., rendered
+it vain to keep any longer on this tack. We therefore put about, and
+steered to the southward. At this time, our latitude, by observation, was
+44° 12', and longitude 150° 40'; so that, after all our efforts, we had the
+mortification to find ourselves, according to the Russian charts, upon a
+meridian with Nadeegsda, which they make the southernmost of the Kurile
+Islands, and about twenty leagues to the southward.
+
+But, though the violent and contrary winds we had met with during the last
+six days, prevented our getting in with these islands, yet the course we
+had been obliged to hold, is not without its geographical advantages. For
+the group of islands, consisting of the Three Sisters, Kunashir, and
+Zellany, (which, in D'Anville's maps, are placed in the track we had just
+crossed,) being, by this means, demonstratively removed from that
+situation, an additional proof is obtained of their lying to the westward,
+where Spanberg actually places them, between the longitude 142° and 147°.
+But as the space is occupied, in the French charts, by part of the supposed
+land of Jeso and Staten Island, Mr Muller's opinion becomes extremely
+probable, that they are all the same lands; and, as no reasons appear for
+doubting Spanberg's accuracy, we have ventured, in our general map, to
+reinstate the Three Sisters, Zellany, and Kunashir, in their proper
+situation, and have entirely omitted the rest. When the reader recollects
+the manner in which the Russians have multiplied the islands of the
+Northern Archipelago, from the want of accuracy in determining their real
+situation, and the desire men naturally feel of propagating new
+discoveries, he will not be surprised, that the same causes should produce
+the same effects. It is thus that the Jesoian lands, which appear, both
+from the accounts of the Japanese, and the earliest Russian traditions, to
+be no other than the Southern Kurile islands, have been supposed distinct
+from the latter. The land of De Gama is next on record; and was originally
+placed nearly in the same situation with those just mentioned, but was
+removed, as has been already suggested, to make room for Staten Island, and
+the Company's Land; and as Jeso, and the southernmost of the Kuriles, had
+also possession of this space, that nothing might be lost, they were
+provided for, the former a little to the westward, and the latter to the
+eastward.
+
+As the islands of Zellany and Kunashir, according to the Russian charts,
+were still to the southward, we were not without hopes of being able to
+mate them, and therefore kept our head as much to the westward as the wind
+would permit. On the 20th, at noon, we were in latitude 43° 47', and
+longitude 150° 30'; and steering W. by S., with a moderate breeze from
+S.E., and probably not more than twenty-four leagues to the eastward of
+Zellany, when our good fortune again deserted us. For, at three o'clock in
+the afternoon, the wind, veering round to the N.W., began to blow so
+strong, that we were brought under our foresail and mizen stay-sail. We had
+very heavy squalls and hard rain, during the next twenty-four hours; after
+which, the horizon clearing a little, and the weather growing moderate, we
+were enabled to set the top-sails; but the wind, still continuing to blow
+from the N.W., baffled all our endeavours to make the land, and obliged us,
+at last, to give up all further thoughts of discovery to the N. of Japan.
+We submitted to this disappointment with the greater reluctance, as the
+accounts that are given of the inhabitants of these islands, mentioned at
+the end of the last section, had excited in us the greater curiosity to
+visit them.
+
+In the afternoon, the leach-rope of the Resolution's fore top-sail gave
+way, and split the sail. As this accident had often happened to us in
+Captain Cook's life-time, he had ordered the foot and leach ropes of the
+topsails to be taken out, and larger fixed in their stead; and as these
+also proved unequal to the strain that was on them, it is evident, that the
+proper proportion of strength between those ropes and the sail is
+exceedingly miscalculated in our service. This day a land-bird perched on
+the rigging, and was taken; it was larger than a sparrow, but, in other
+respects, very like one.
+
+The gale now abated gradually; so that, in the morning of the 22d, we let
+out the reefs of the topsails, and made more sail. At noon, we were in
+latitude 40° 58', and longitude 148° 17', the variation 3° E. In the
+afternoon, another little wanderer from the land pitched on the ship, and
+was so worn out with fatigue, that it suffered itself to be taken
+immediately, and died a few hours afterward. It was not bigger than a wren,
+had a tuft of yellow feathers on its head, and the rest of its plumage like
+that of the linnet. The sparrow, being stronger, lived a long time. These
+birds plainly indicating, that we could not be at any great distance from
+the land, and the wind, after varying a little, fixing in the evening at
+N., our hopes of making the land again revived, and we hauled up to the
+W.N.W., in which direction, the southernmost islands seen by Spanberg, and
+said to be inhabited by hairy men, lay at the distance of about fifty
+leagues. But the wind not keeping pace with our wishes, blew in such light
+airs, that we made little way, till eight next morning, when we had a fresh
+breeze from the S.S.W., with which we continued to steer W.N.W. till the
+evening. At noon, we were in latitude 40° 35', longitude 146° 45'; the
+latter deduced from several lunar observations taken during the night. The
+variation of the needle we found to be 17' E. In the evening, we had strong
+squally gales attended with rain, and having passed, in the course of the
+day, several patches of green grass, and seen a shag, many small land-
+birds, and flocks of gulls, it was not thought prudent, with all these
+signs of the vicinity of land, to stand on during the whole night. We
+therefore tacked at midnight, and steered a few hours to the S.E., and, at
+four in the morning of the 24th, again directed our course to the W.N.W.,
+and carried a press of sail till seven in the evening, when the wind
+shifted from S.S.W. to N., and blew a fresh gale. At this time we were in
+the latitude of 40° 57', and the longitude of 145° 20'.
+
+This second disappointment in our endeavours to get to the N.W., together
+with the boisterous weather we had met with, and the little likelihood, at
+this time of the year, of its becoming more favourable to our views, were
+Captain Gore's motives for now finally giving up all farther search for the
+islands to the N. of Japan, and for shaping a course W.S.W., for the N.
+part of that island. In the night, the wind shifted to the N.E., and blew a
+fresh gale, with hard rain, and hazy weather, which, by noon of the 25th,
+brought us to the latitude of 40° 18', in the longitude 144° 0'. To-day, we
+saw flights of wild-ducks, a pigeon lighted on our rigging, and many birds,
+like linnets, flew about us with a degree of vigour that seemed to prove,
+they had not been long upon the wing. We also passed patches of long grass,
+and a piece either of sugar-cane or bamboo. These signs, that land was at
+no great distance, induced us to try for soundings; but we found no ground
+with ninety fathoms of line, Toward evening, the wind by degrees shifted
+round to the S., with which we still kept on to the W.S.W.; and at day-
+break of the 26th, we had the pleasure of descrying high land to the
+westward, which proved to be Japan. At eight, it extended from N.W. to S.
+by W., distant three or four leagues. A low flat cape bore N.W. 3/4 W., and
+seemed to make the S. part of the entrance of a bay. Toward the S. extreme,
+a conical-shaped hill bore S. by W. 3/4 W. To the northward of this hill
+there appeared to be a very deep inlet, the N. side of the entrance into
+which is formed by a low point of land, and, as well as we could judge by
+our glasses, has a small island near it to the southward.
+
+We stood on till nine, when we were within two leagues of the land, bearing
+W. 3/4 S., and had soundings of fifty-eight fathoms, with a bottom of very
+fine sand. We now tacked and stood off; but the wind dying away, at noon we
+had got no farther than three leagues from the coast, which extended from
+N.W. by N. 3/4 W. to S. 1/2 E., and was, for the most part, bold and
+cliffy. The low cape to the northward bore N.W. by W., six leagues distant;
+and the N. point of the inlet S. 3/4 W. The latitude, by observation, was
+40° 5', and longitude 142° 28'. The northernmost land in sight, we judged
+to be the northern extremity of Japan.[97] It is lower than any other part;
+and, from the range of the high lands that were seen over it from the mast-
+head, the coast appeared evidently to incline round to the westward. The N.
+point of the inlet we supposed to be Cape Nambu, and the town to be
+situated in a break of the high land, toward which the inlet seemed to
+direct itself[98]. The country is of a moderate height, consists of a
+double range of mountains; it abounds with wood, and has a pleasing variety
+of hills and dales. We saw the smoke of several towns or villages, and many
+houses near the shore, in pleasant and cultivated situations.
+
+During the calm, being willing to make the best use of our time, we put our
+fishing lines overboard, in sixty fathoms water, but without any success.
+As this was the only amusement our circumstances admitted, the
+disappointment was always very sensibly felt, and made us look back with
+regret to the cod-banks of the dreary regions we had left, which had
+supplied us with so many wholesome meals, and, by the diversion they
+afforded, had given a variety to the wearisome succession of gales and
+calms, and the tedious repetition of the same nautical observations. At two
+in the afternoon, the breeze freshened from the southward, and, by four,
+had brought us under close-reefed topsails, and obliged us to stand off to
+the S.E. In consequence of this course, and the haziness of the weather,
+the land soon disappeared. We kept on all night, and till eight the next
+morning, when the wind coming round to the N., and growing moderate, we
+made sail, and steered W.S.W., toward the land; but did not make it till
+three in the afternoon, when it extended from N.W. 1/2 W. to W. The
+northernmost extreme being a continuation of the high land, which was the
+southernmost we had seen the day before; the land to the W. we conceived to
+be the Hofe Tafel Berg (the High Table Hill) of Jansen. Between the two
+extremes, the coast was low and scarcely perceptible, except from the mast-
+head. We stood on toward the coast till eight, when we were about five
+leagues distant; and, having shortened sail for the night, steered to the
+southward, sounding every four hours, but never found ground with one
+hundred and sixty fathoms of line.
+
+On the 28th, at six in the morning, we again saw land, twelve leagues to
+the southward of that seen the preceding day, extending from W.S.W. to W.
+by N. We steered S.W. obliquely with the shore; and, at ten, saw more land
+open to the S.W. To the westward of this land, which is low and flat, are
+two islands as we judged, though some doubts were entertained, whether they
+might not be connected with the adjacent low ground. The hazy weather,
+joined to our distance, prevented us also from determining, whether there
+are any inlets or harbours between the projecting points, which seem here
+to promise good shelter. At noon, the N. extreme bore N.W. by N., and a
+high peaked hill, over a steep headland, W. by N., distant five leagues.
+Our latitude at this time, by observation, was 38° 16', longitude 142° 9'.
+The mean of the variation, from observations taken both in the fore and
+afternoon, was 1° 20' E.
+
+At half-past three in the afternoon, we lost sight of the land; and, from
+its breaking off so suddenly, conjectured, that what we had seen this day
+is an island, or, perhaps, a cluster of islands, lying off the main land of
+Japan; but as the islands, called by Jansen the Schildpads, and by Mr
+D'Anville Matsima, though laid down nearly in the same situation, are not
+equal in extent to the land seen by us, we must leave this point undecided.
+Having kept a S.W. course during the remaining part of the day, we found
+ourselves, at midnight, in seventy fathoms water, over a bottom of fine
+dark-brown sand. We therefore hauled up to the eastward, till morning, when
+we saw the land again, about eleven leagues to the southward of that which
+we had seen the day before; and at eight, we were within six or seven miles
+of the shore, having carried, in regular soundings, from sixty-five to
+twenty fathoms, over coarse sand and gravel. Unluckily there was a haze
+over the land, which hindered our distinguishing small objects on it. The
+coast is straight and unbroken, and runs nearly in a N, and S. direction.
+Toward the sea the ground is low, but rises gradually into hills of a
+moderate height, whose tops are tolerably even, and covered with wood.
+
+At nine o'clock, the wind shifting to the southward, and the sky lowring,
+we tacked and stood off to the E., and soon after, we saw a vessel, close
+in with the land, standing along the shore to the northward, and another in
+the offing, coming down on us before the wind. Objects of any kind,
+belonging to a country so famous, and yet so little known, it will be
+easily conceived, must have excited a general curiosity, and accordingly
+every soul on board was upon deck in an instant, to gaze at them. As the
+vessel to windward approached us, she hauled farther off shore; upon which,
+fearing that we should alarm them by the appearance of a pursuit, we
+brought the ships to, and she passed ahead of us, at the distance of about
+half a mile. It would have been easy for us to have spoken with them; but
+perceiving, by their manoeuvres, that they were much frightened, Captain
+Gore was not willing to augment their terrors; and, thinking that we should
+have many better opportunities of communication with this people, suffered
+them to go off without interruption. Our distance did not permit us to
+remark any particular regarding the men on board, who seemed to be about
+six in number, especially as the haziness of the weather precluded the use
+of our glasses. According to the best conjectures we were able to form, the
+vessel was about forty tons burthen. She had but one mast, on which was
+hoisted a square sail, extended by a yard aloft, the braces of which worked
+forward. Half-way down the sail, came three pieces of black cloth, at equal
+distances from each other. The vessel was higher at each end than in the
+midship; and we imagined, from her appearance and form, that it was
+impossible for her to sail any otherwise than large.
+
+At noon, the wind freshened, and brought with it a good deal of rain; by
+three, it had increased so much, that we were reduced to our courses; at
+the same time, the sea ran as high as any one on board ever remembered to
+have seen it. If the Japanese vessels are, as Kæmpfer describes them, open
+in the stern, it would not have been possible for those we saw to have
+survived the fury of this storm; but, as the appearance of the weather, all
+the preceding part of the day, foretold its coming, and one of the sloops
+had, notwithstanding, stood far out to sea, we may safely conclude, that
+they are perfectly capable of bearing a gale of wind. Spanberg indeed
+describes two kinds of Japanese vessels; one answering to the above
+description of Kæmpfer, the other, which he calls busses, and in which, he
+says, they make their voyages to the neighbouring islands, exactly
+corresponds with those we saw.[99]
+
+At eight in the evening, the gale shifted to the W., without abating the
+least in violence, and by raising a sudden swell, in a contrary direction
+to that which prevailed before, occasioned the ships to strain and labour
+exceedingly. During the storm, several of the sails were split on board the
+Resolution. Indeed they had been so long bent, and were worn so thin, that
+this accident had of late happened to us almost daily, in both ships;
+especially when, being stiff and heavy with the rain, they became less able
+to bear the shocks of the violent and variable winds we at this time
+experienced. The gale at length growing moderate, and settling to the W.,
+we kept upon a wind to the southward; and, at nine in the morning of the
+30th, we saw the land, at the distance of about fifteen leagues, bearing
+from W. by N. to N.W. 1/4 W. It appeared in detached parts; but whether
+they were small islands, or parts of Japan, our distance did not enable us
+to determine. At noon, it extended from N.W. to W., the nearest land being
+about thirteen leagues distant, beyond which the coast seemed to run in a
+westerly direction. The latitude, by observation, was 36° 41', longitude
+142° 6'. The point to the northward, which was supposed to be near the
+southernmost land seen the day before, we conjectured to be Cape de Kennis,
+and the break to the southward of this point, to be the mouth of the
+river on which the town of Gissima is said to be situated. The next cape is
+probably that called in the Dutch charts Boomtje's Point; and the
+southernmost, off which we were abreast at noon, we suppose to be near Low
+Point,[100] and that we were at too great distance to see the low land, in
+which it probably terminates, to the eastward.
+
+In the afternoon, the wind veering round to the N.E., we stood to the
+southward, at the distance of about eighteen leagues from the shore, trying
+for soundings as we went along, but finding none with one hundred and
+fifteen fathoms of line. At two the next morning, it shifted to W.,
+attended with rain and lightning, and blowing in heavy squalls. During the
+course of the day, we had several small birds of a brown plumage,
+resembling linnets, flying about us, which had been forced off the land by
+the strong westerly gales; but toward the evening, the wind coming to the
+N.W., we shaped our coarse, along with them, to W.S.W., in order to regain
+the coast. In the morning of the 1st of November, the wind again shifted to
+S.E., and bringing with it fair weather, we got forty-two sets of distances
+of the moon from the sun and stars, with four different quadrants, each set
+consisting of six observations; these agreeing pretty nearly with each
+other, fix our situation at noon the same day, with great accuracy, in
+longitude 141° 32'; the latitude, by observation, was 35° 17', We found an
+error of latitude, in our reckonings of the preceding day, of eight miles,
+and in this day's of seventeen; from whence, and from our being much more
+to the eastward than we expected, we concluded, that there had been a
+strong current from the S.W.
+
+At two in the afternoon, we again made the land to the westward, at the
+distance of about twelve leagues; the southernmost land in sight, which we
+supposed to be White Point,[101], bore W.S.W. 1/2 W.; a hummock to the
+northward, which had the appearance of being an island, bore N.N.W. 1/2 W.,
+within which we saw from the mast-head low land, which we took to be Sand-
+down Point.[102] We stood in toward the land, till half-past five, when we
+hauled our wind to the southward. At this time we saw a number of Japanese
+vessels, close in with the land, several seemingly engaged in fishing, and
+others standing along shore. We now discovered to the westward a remarkably
+high mountain, with a round top, rising far inland. There is no high ground
+near it, the coast being of a moderate elevation, and, as far as we could
+judge, from the haziness of the horizon, much broken by small inlets. But
+to the southward of the hummock island before mentioned, there appeared, at
+a great distance, within the country, a ridge of hills, stretching in a
+direction toward the mountain, and probably joining with it. As this is the
+most remarkable hill on the coast, we could have wished to have settled its
+situation exactly; but having only had this single view, were obliged to be
+contented with such accuracy as our circumstances would allow. Its latitude
+therefore we conceive to be 35° 20', its longitude, estimated by its
+distance from the ships, at this time fifteen leagues, 140° 26'.
+
+As the Dutch charts make the coast of Japan extend about ten leagues to the
+S.W. of White Point, at eight we tacked, and stood off to the eastward, in
+order to weather the point. At midnight, we again tacked to the S.W.,
+expecting to fall in with the coast to the southward, but were surprised,
+in the morning at eight, to see the hummock, at the distance only of three
+leagues, bearing W.N.W. We began, at first, to doubt the evidence of our
+senses, and afterward to suspect some deception from a similarity of land;
+but, at noon, we found ourselves, by observation, to be actually in
+latitude 35° 43', at a time when our reckonings gave us 34° 48'. So that,
+during the eight hours in which we supposed we had made a course of nine
+leagues to the S.W., we had in reality been carried eight leagues from the
+position we left, in a direction diametrically opposite; which made, on the
+whole, in that short space of time, a difference in our reckoning of
+seventeen leagues. From this error, we calculated, that the current had set
+to the N.E. by N., at the rate of at least five miles an hour. Our
+longitude, at this time, was 141° 16'.
+
+The weather having now the same threatening appearance as on the 29th of
+October, which was followed by so sudden and severe a gale, and the wind
+continuing at S.S.E., it was thought prudent to leave the shore, and stand
+off to the eastward, to prevent our being entangled with the land. Nor were
+we wrong in our prognostications; for it soon afterward began, and
+continued till next day, to blow a heavy gale, accompanied with hazy and
+rainy weather. In the morning of the 3d, we found ourselves, by our
+reckoning, upward of fifty leagues from the land; which circumstance,
+together with the very extraordinary effect of currents we had before
+experienced, the late season of the year, the unsettled state of the
+weather, and the little likelihood of any change for the better, made
+Captain Gore resolve to leave Japan altogether, and prosecute our voyage to
+China; hoping, that as the track he meant to pursue had never yet been
+explored, he should be able to make amends, by some new discovery, for the
+disappointments we had met with on this coast.
+
+If the reader should be of opinion that we quitted this object too hastily,
+in addition to the facts already stated it ought to be remarked, that
+Kæmpfer describes the coast of Japan as the most dangerous in the whole
+world;[103] that it would have been equally dangerous, in case of distress,
+to run into any of their harbours, where we know, from the best
+authorities, that the aversion of the inhabitants to any intercourse with
+strangers, has led them to commit the most atrocious barbarities; that our
+ships were in a leaky condition, that our sails were worn out, and unable
+to withstand, a gale of wind, and that the rigging was so rotten as to
+require constant and perpetual repairs.
+
+As the strong currents, which set along the eastern coast of Japan, may be
+of dangerous consequence to the navigator, who is not aware of their
+extraordinary rapidity, I shall take leave of this island, with a summary
+account of their force and direction, as observed by us from the 1st to the
+8th of November. On the 1st, at which time we were about eighteen leagues
+to the eastward of White Point, the current set N.E. and by N., at the rate
+of three miles an hour; on the 2d, as we approached the shore, we found it
+continuing in the same direction, but increased its rapidity to five miles
+an hour; as we left the shore it again became more moderate, and inclined
+to the eastward; on the 3d, at the distance of sixty leagues, it set to the
+E.N.E., three miles an hour; on the 4th and 5th, it turned to the
+southward, and at one hundred and twenty leagues from the land, its
+direction was S.E., and its rate not more than a mile and a half an hour;
+on the 6th and 7th, it again shifted round to the N.E., its force gradually
+diminishing till the 8th, when we could no longer perceive any at all.
+
+During the 4th and 5th, we continued our course to the S.E., having very
+unsettled weather, attended with much lightning and rain. On both days we
+passed great quantities of pumice-stone, several pieces of which we took
+up, and found to weigh from one ounce to three pounds. We conjectured that
+these stones had been thrown into the sea by eruptions of various dates, as
+many of them were covered with barnacles, and others quite bare. At the
+same time, we saw two wild ducks, and several small land-birds, and had
+many porpoises playing round us.
+
+On the 6th, at day-light, we altered our course to the S.S.W.; but, at
+eight in the evening, we were taken back, and obliged to steer to the S.E.
+On the 7th, at noon, we saw a small land-bird, our latitude, by
+observation, at this time, being 33° 52', and longitude 148° 42'. On the
+9th, we were in latitude 31° 46', longitude 146° 20', when we again saw a
+small land-bird, a tropic bird, porpoises, flying fishes, and had a great
+swell from the E.S.E. We continued our course to the S.W., having the winds
+from the northward, without any remarkable occurrence, till the 12th, when
+we had a most violent gale of wind from the same quarter, which reduced us
+to the fore-sail and mizen stay-sail; and, as the weather was so hazy, that
+we were not able to see a cable's length before us, and many shoals and
+small islands are laid down in our charts, in this part of the ocean, we
+brought-to, with our heads to the S.W. At noon, the latitude by account was
+27° 36', longitude 144° 25'. In the morning of the 13th, the wind shifting
+round to the N.W., brought with it fair weather; but though we were, at
+this time nearly in the situation given to the island of St Juan, we saw no
+appearance of land. We now bore away to the S.W., and set the top-sails,
+the gale still continuing with great violence. At noon, the latitude, by
+observation, was 26° 0', longitude 143° 40', and variation 3° 50' E. In the
+afternoon, we saw flying fish and dolphins, also tropic birds and
+albatrosses. We still continued to pass much pumice-stone; indeed, the
+prodigious quantities of this substance which float in the sea, between
+Japan and the Bashee islands, seem to indicate, that some great volcanic
+convulsion must have happened in this part of the Pacific Ocean; and
+consequently give some degree of probability to the opinion of Mr Muller,
+which I have already had occasion to mention, respecting the separation of
+the continent of Jeso, and the disappearance of Company's Land and Staten
+Island.
+
+At six in the afternoon, we altered our coarse to the W.S.W., Captain Gore
+judging it useless to steer any longer to the S.S.W., as we were near the
+meridian of the Ladrones, or Marianne Islands, and at no great distance
+from the track of the Manilla ships. In the morning of the 14th, the
+weather became fine, and the wind, which was moderate, gradually shifted to
+the N.E., and proved to be the trade-wind. At ten, Mr Trevenen, one of the
+young gentlemen who came along with me into the Discovery, saw land
+appearing like a peaked mountain, and bearing S.W. At noon, the latitude,
+by observation, was 24° 37', longitude 142° 2'. The land, which we now
+discovered to be an island, bore S.W. 1/2 W., distant eight or ten leagues;
+and at two in the afternoon, we saw another to the W.N.W. This second
+island, when seen at a distance, has the appearance of two; the south point
+consisting of a high conical hill, joined by a narrow neck to the northern
+land, which is of a moderate height. As this was evidently of greater
+extent than the island to the south, we altered our course toward it. At
+four, it bore N.W. by W.; but, not having day-light sufficient to examine
+the coast, we stood upon our tacks during the night.
+
+On the 15th, at six in the morning, we bore away for the south point of the
+larger island, at which time we discovered another high island, bearing N.
+3/4 W., the south island, being on the same rhomb line, and the south point
+of the island ahead, W. by N. At nine, we were abreast, and within a mile
+of the middle island, but Captain Gore, finding that a boat could not land
+without some danger from the great surf that broke on the shore, kept on
+his course to the westward. At noon, our latitude, by observation, was 24°
+50', longitude 140° 56' E.
+
+This island is about five miles long, in a N.N.E., and S.S.W. direction.
+The south point is a high barren hill, flattish at the top, and, when seen
+from the W.S.W., presents an evident volcanic crater. The earth, rock, or
+sand, for it was not easy to distinguish of which its surface was composed,
+exhibited various colours, and a considerable part we conjectured to be
+sulphur, both from its appearance to the eye, and the strong sulphurous
+smell which we perceived as we approached the point. Some of the officers
+on board the Resolution, which passed nearer the land, thought they saw
+steams rising from the top of the hill. From these circumstances, Captain
+Gore gave it the name of _Sulphur Island_. A low, narrow neck of land
+connects this hill with the south end of the island, which spreads out into
+a circumference of three or four leagues, and is of a moderate height. The
+part near the isthmus has some bushes on it, and has a green appearance,
+but those to the N.E. are very barren, and full of large detached rocks,
+many of which were exceedingly white. Very dangerous breakers extend two
+miles and a half to the east, and two miles to the west, off the middle
+part of the island, on which the sea broke with great violence.
+
+The north and south islands appeared to us as single mountains of a
+considerable height; the former peaked, and of a conical shape; the latter
+more square and flat at the top. Sulphur Island we place in latitude 24°
+48', longitude 141° 12'. The north island in latitude 25° 14', longitude
+141° 10'. The south island in latitude 24° 22', and longitude 141° 26'. The
+variation observed was 3° 30' E.
+
+Captain Gore now directed his course to the W.S.W., for the Bashee Islands,
+hoping to procure, at them, such a supply of refreshments as would help to
+shorten his stay in Macao. These islands were visited by Dampier, who gives
+a very favourable account, both of the civility of the inhabitants, and of
+the plenty of hogs and vegetables, with, which the country abounds; they
+were afterwards seen by Byron and Wallis, who passed them without landing.
+
+In order to extend our view, in the day-time, the ships spread between two
+and three leagues from each other, and during the night, we went under an
+easy sail; so that it was scarcely possible to pass any land that lay in
+the neighbourhood of our course. In this manner we proceeded, without any
+occurrence worth remarking, with a fresh breeze from the N.E., till the
+22d, when it increased to a strong gale, with violent squalls of wind and
+rain, which brought us under close-reefed top-sails.
+
+At noon of the 23d, the latitude, by account, was 21° 5', and longitude
+123° 20'; at six in the evening, being now only twenty-one leagues from the
+Bashee Islands, according to the situation in Mr Dalrymple's map, and the
+weather squally attended with a thick haze, we hauled our wind to the
+N.N.W., and handed the fore top-sail.
+
+During the whole of the 24th it rained incessantly, and the wind still blew
+a storm; a heavy sea rolled down on us from the north, and in the afternoon
+we had violent flashes of lightning from the same quarter. We continued
+upon a wind to the N.N.W. till nine o'clock, when we tacked, and stood to
+the S.S.E., till four in the morning of the 25th, and then wore. During the
+night there was an eclipse of the moon, but the rain prevented our making
+any observation; unfortunately, at the time of the greatest darkness, a
+seaman, in stowing the main-top-mast stay-sail, fell overboard, but laying
+hold of a rope, which providentially was hanging out of the fore-chains
+into the water, and the ship being quickly brought in the wind, he was got
+on board without any other hurt than a slight bruise on his shoulder. At
+eight, the weather clearing, we bore away but the wind blew still so
+strong, that we carried no other sail than the fore-sail, and the main-top-
+sail close-reefed. About this time we saw a land-bird resembling a thrush,
+and a sugar-cane; at noon, the latitude, by observation, was 21° 35', and
+longitude 121° 35'.
+
+As our situation in longitude was now to the west of the Bashee, according
+to Mr Dalrymple's map, I perceived that Captain Gore was governed, in the
+course he was steering, by the opinions of Commodore Byron and Captain
+Wallis, with whom he sailed when they passed these islands. The former
+placing it near four degrees to the westward, or in longitude 118° 15'. In
+consequence of this opinion, at two, we stood to the southward, with a view
+of getting into the same parallel of latitude with the islands, before we
+ran down our longitude. At six, we were nearly in that situation, and
+consequently ought to have been in sight of land, according to Mr Wallis's
+account, who places the Bashees near three degrees more to the eastward
+than Mr Byron. The gale, at this time, had not in the least abated; and
+Captain Gore, still conceiving that the islands must undoubtedly lie to the
+westward, brought the ships to, with their heads to the N.W., under the
+fore-sail and balanced mizen.
+
+At six in the morning of the 26th, the wind having considerably abated, we
+bore away west; set the top-sails, and let out the reefs. At noon, the
+latitude, by observation, was 21° 12', and longitude 120° 25'. We saw, this
+day, a flock of ducks, and many tropic-birds, also dolphins and porpoises,
+and still continued to pass several pumice-stones. We spent the night upon
+our tacks, and, at six in the morning of the 27th, again bore away west in
+search of the Bashees.
+
+I now began to be a little apprehensive, lest, in searching for those
+islands, we should get so much to the southward as to be obliged to pass to
+leeward of the Pratas. In this case, it might have been exceedingly
+difficult for such bad-sailing ships as ours to fetch Macao, particularly
+should the wind continue to blow, as it now did, from the N.N.E. and N. As
+I had some doubts whether Mr Dalrymple's charts were on board the
+Resolution, I made sail and hailed her; and having acquainted Captain Gore
+with the position of these shoals, and my apprehensions of being driven to
+the southward, he informed me that he should continue on his course for the
+day, as he was still in hopes of finding Admiral Byron's longitude right;
+and therefore ordered me to spread a few miles to the south.
+
+At noon, the weather became hazy; the latitude, by reckoning, was 21° 2',
+and longitude 118° 30'; and at six, having got to the westward of the
+Bashees, by Mr Byron's account, Captain Gore hauled his wind to the N.W.,
+under an easy sail, the wind blowing very strong, and there being every
+appearance of a dirty boisterous night. At four in the morning of the 28th,
+we saw the Resolution, then half a mile ahead of us, wear, and immediately
+perceived breakers close under our lee. At day-light, we saw the island of
+Prata; and at half past six we wore again, and stood toward the shoal, and
+finding we could not weather it, bore away, and ran to leeward. As we
+passed the south side, within a mile of the reef, we observed two
+remarkable patches on the edge of the breakers, that looked like wrecks. At
+noon, the latitude, found by double altitudes, was 20° 39', longitude 116°
+45'. The island bore N. 3/4 E., distant three or four leagues. On the
+south-west side of the reef, and near the south end of the island, we
+thought we saw, from the mast-head, openings in the reef, which promised
+safe anchorage.
+
+The Prata shoal is of a considerable extent, being six leagues from north
+to south, and stretching three or four leagues to the eastward of the
+island; its limit to the westward we were not in a situation to determine.
+The northeast extremity we place in latitude 20° 58', and longitude 117°;
+and the south-west in latitude 20° 45', and longitude 116° 44'.
+
+For the remaining part of the day we carried a press of sail, and kept the
+wind, which was N.E. by N., in order to secure our passage to Macao. It was
+fortunate, that toward evening the wind favoured us, by changing two points
+more to the east; for had the wind and weather continued the same as during
+the preceding week, I doubt whether we could have fetched that port, in
+which case, we must have borne away for Batavia; a place we all dreaded
+exceedingly, from the sad havoc the unhealthiness of the climate had made
+in the crews of the former ships that had been out on discovery, and had
+touched there.
+
+In the forenoon of the 29th, we passed several Chinese fishing-boats, who
+eyed us with great indifference; They fish with a large dredge-net, shaped
+like a hollow cone, having a flat iron rim fixed to the lower part of its
+mouth. The net is made fast with cords to the head and stern of the boat,
+which being left to drive with the wind, draws the net after it with the
+iron part dragging along the bottom. We were sorry to find the sea covered
+with the wrecks of boats that had been lost, as we conjectured, in the late
+boisterous weather. At-noon, we were in latitude, by observation, 22° 1',
+having run one hundred and ten miles upon a north-west course since the
+preceding noon. Being now nearly in the latitude of the Lema Islands, we
+bore away W. by N., and after running twenty-two miles, saw one of them
+nine or ten leagues to the westward. At six, the extremes of the islands in
+sight bore N.N.W. 1/2 W., and W.N.W. 1/2 W.; distant from the nearest four
+or five leagues; the depth of water twenty-two fathoms, over a soft muddy
+bottom. We now shortened sail, and kept upon our tacks for the night. By Mr
+Bayly's time-keeper, the Grand Lema bore from the Prata Island, N. 60° W.,
+one hundred and fifty-three miles; and by our run, N. 57° W., one hundred
+and forty-six miles.
+
+In the morning of the 30th, we ran along the Lema Isles, which, like all
+the other islands on this coast, are without wood, and, as far as we could
+observe, without cultivation. At seven o'clock, we had precisely the same
+view of these islands, as is represented in a plate of Lord Anson's voyage.
+At nine o'clock, a Chinese boat, which had been before with the Resolution,
+came alongside, and wanted to put on board us a pilot, which, however, we
+declined, as it was our business to follow our consort. We soon after
+passed the rock marked R in Lord Anson's plate; but, instead of hauling up
+to the northward of the Grand Ladrone Island, as was done in the Centurion,
+we proceeded to leeward.
+
+It is hardly necessary to caution the mariner not to take this course, as
+the danger is sufficiently obvious; for should the wind blow strong, and
+the current set with it, it will be extremely difficult to fetch Macao.
+Indeed, we might, with great safety, by the direction of Mr Dalrymple's
+map, have gone either entirely to the north of the Lema Isles, or between
+them, and made the wind fair for Macao. Our fears of missing this port, and
+being forced to Batavia, added to the strong and eager desires of hearing
+news from Europe, made us rejoice to see the Resolution soon after fire a
+gun, and hoist her colours as a signal for a pilot. On repeating the
+signal, we saw an excellent race between four Chinese boats; and Captain
+Gore, having engaged with the man who arrived first, to carry the ship to
+the Typa, for thirty dollars, sent me word, that, as we could easily
+follow, that expence might be saved to us. Soon after, a second pilot
+getting on board the Resolution, insisted on conducting the ship, and,
+without farther ceremony, laid hold of the wheel, and began to order the
+sails to be trimmed. This occasioned a violent dispute, which at last was
+compromised, by their agreeing to go shares in the money. At noon, the
+altitude, by observation, was 21° 57' N., and longitude 114° 2' E.; the
+Grand Ladrone Island extending from N.W. 1/2 N., to N.1/2 W., distant four
+miles. The land of which the bearings are here given, we conceived to be
+one island; but afterward found the western part to be the island marked Z
+in Mr Dalrymple's chart of part of the coast of China, &c. which, at that
+time, we unfortunately had not on board.
+
+In obedience to the instructions given to Captain Cook by the Board of
+Admiralty, it now became necessary to demand of the officers and men their
+journals, and what other papers they might have in their possession,
+relating to the history of our voyage. The execution of these orders seemed
+to require some delicacy, as well as firmness. I could not be ignorant,
+that the greatest part of our officers, and several of the seamen, had
+amused themselves with writing accounts of our proceedings for their own
+private satisfaction, or that of their friends, which they might be
+unwilling, in their present form, to have submitted to the inspection of
+strangers. On the other hand, I could not, consistently with the
+instructions we had received, leave in their custody papers, which, either
+from carelessness or design, might fall into the hands of printers, and
+give rise to spurious and imperfect accounts of the voyage, to the
+discredit of our labours, and perhaps to the prejudice of officers, who,
+though innocent, might be suspected of having been the authors of such
+publications. As soon, therefore, as I had assembled the ship's company on
+deck, I acquainted them with the orders we had received, and the reasons
+which, I thought, ought to induce them to yield a ready obedience. At the
+same time, I told them, that any papers which they were desirous not to
+have sent to the Admiralty, should be sealed up in their presence, and kept
+in my own custody, till the intentions of the Board, with regard to the
+publication of the history of the voyage, were fulfilled; after which, they
+should faithfully be restored back to them.
+
+It is with the greatest satisfaction I can relate, that my proposals met
+with the approbation, and the cheerful compliance both of the officers and
+men; and I am persuaded, that every scrap of paper, containing any
+transactions relating to the voyage, were given up. Indeed, it is doing
+bare justice to the seamen of this ship to declare, that they were the most
+obedient and the best-disposed men I ever knew, though almost all of them
+were very young, and had never before served in a ship of war.
+
+
+[92] As we have already exceeded the proportion of notes in the preceding
+    pages, it would be improper, even if the importance of the remaining
+    matter were more considerable than it is, to hazard farther
+    commentary. The reader will find, as, indeed, he will naturally
+    expect, that the condition of the vessels, &c. did not admit of much
+    more research that could benefit navigation or geography. This,
+    therefore, renders it less necessary to occupy attention in the
+    results. Some additions have been made to our knowledge of Jesso, the
+    neighbouring seas and islands, since the date of this voyage, and in
+    no small degree, especially by the expedition under Krusenstern, from
+    whose remarks we have already enriched our work. The additional
+    observations will properly fall to be considered hereafter. It may be
+    necessary, however, to state at present, that the able navigator, just
+    now named, had it in his power, from more favourable circumstances, to
+    correct the positions of some of the islands seen by Captain Gore, and
+    assigned to them in the following section, as Sulphur Island, North
+    Island, &c. But the corrections, though important for nautical
+    purposes, are not of so much consequence in a general point of view,
+    as to justify any particular remarks on the text. It is enough,
+    perhaps, to notice the circumstance here, and to take advantage of the
+    improvements of Krusenstern or others on any map or chart it may be
+    expedient to affix to a subsequent portion of this work. The result of
+    K.'s labours, it may be remarked, will require a modification to no
+    mean amount of all the maps and charts of the regions we are now
+    contemplating.--E.
+
+[93] From Muller's account of the course steered by Captain Spanberg, in
+    his route from Kamtschatka to Japan, it appears, that he must also
+    undoubtedly have seen De Gama's Land, if it really has the extent
+    given it in Mr D'Anville's maps. Walton, who commanded a vessel in the
+    same expedition, seems also to have looked in vain for this land on
+    his return from Japan; and three years afterward, on account of some
+    doubts that had arisen respecting Spanberg's course, Beering went
+    directly in search of it, as low as the latitude of 46°.--See _Voyages
+    et Découvertes_, &c. p. 210, et seq.
+
+[94] This land was seen by the Dutchmen who sailed in the Castricom and
+    Breskes, and imagined by them to be part of the continent of America.
+    There now remains scarce any doubt of its being the islands of Ooroop
+    and Nadeegsda. See the journals of the Castricom and Breskes,
+    published by Wetzer.
+
+[95] This land was also discovered by the Castricom; and, from its
+    situation, as described in the journal of that vessel, it appears to
+    be the islands of the Three Sisters.
+
+[96] The country of Jeso, which has so long been a stumbling-block to our
+    modern geographers, was first brought to the knowledge of Europeans by
+    the Dutch vessels mentioned in the preceding notes. The name appears,
+    from the earliest accounts, to have been well known, both to the
+    Japanese and the Kamtschadales; and used by them, indiscriminately,
+    for all the islands lying between Kamtschatka and Japan. It has since
+    been applied to a large imaginary island, or continent, supposed to
+    have been discovered by the Castricom and Breskes; and it may not,
+    therefore, be improper to consider the grounds of this mistake, as far
+    as can be collected from the journals of that expedition. The object
+    of the voyage, in which those ships were engaged, was to explore the
+    eastern shore of Tartary; but, being separated by a storm off the S.E.
+    point of Japan, they sailed in different tracks along the E. side of
+    the island; and, having passed its northern extremity, proceeded
+    singly on their intended expedition.
+
+    The Castricom, commanded by De Vries, steering northward, fell in with
+    land on the third day, in latitude 42°. He sailed along the S.E. coast
+    about sixty leagues in a _constant fog_; and, having anchored in
+    various places, held a friendly intercourse with the inhabitants. Thus
+    far the journal. Now, as the islands of Matimai, Kunashir, and Zellany
+    appear, from Captain Spanberg's discoveries, to lie exactly in this
+    situation, there can be no doubt of their being the same land; and the
+    circumstance of the fog sufficiently accounts for the error of De
+    Vries, imagining them to be one continent; without having recourse to
+    the supposition of an earthquake, by which Mr Muller, from his desire
+    to reconcile the opinion generally received, with the later Russian
+    discoveries, conceives the several parts to have been separated. The
+    journal then proceeds to give an account of the discovery of Staten
+    Island and Company's Land, of which I have already given my opinion,
+    and shall have occasion to speak hereafter. Having passed through the
+    Straits of De Vries, says the journal, they entered a vast, wild, and
+    tempestuous sea, in which they steered, through mists and darkness, to
+    the 48° N. latitude; after which they were driven by contrary winds to
+    the southward, and again fell in with land to the westward, in
+    latitude 45°, which they unaccountably still imagined to be part of
+    the continent of Jeso; whereas, whoever examines Jansen's map of their
+    discoveries, (which appears to be exceedingly accurate, as far as his
+    information went,) will, I believe, have no doubt, that they were, at
+    this time, on the coast of Tartary. Having traced this land four
+    degrees to the northward, they returned to the southward through the
+    Straits they had passed before.
+
+    It is not necessary to trouble the reader with the journal of the
+    Breskes, as it contains no new matter, and has been already
+    republished, and very satisfactorily animadverted upon by Mr Muller.--
+    _Voyages from Asia to America_, &c. English Translation, p. 78.
+
+[97] The only authentic survey of the eastern coast of Japan, with which I
+    am acquainted, is that published by Jansen in his Atlas, and compiled
+    with great accuracy from the charts and journals of the Castricom and
+    Breskes. I have therefore adopted, wherever the identity of the
+    situations could be nearly ascertained, the names given in that map to
+    the corresponding points and head-lands seen by us along the coast.
+
+    Jansen places the northern extremity of Japan in latitude 40° 15'. The
+    point seen by us was in latitude 40° 27'.
+
+[98] This town is called by Jansen, Nabo.
+
+[99] Vide Muller, Fr. ed. page 215.
+
+[100] _Lage Hoeck_, or Low Point, is placed by Jansen in latitude
+    36° 40'.
+
+[101] _Witte Hoeck_, placed by Jansen in latitude 35° 24'.
+
+[102] _Sanduynege Hoeck_, in latitude 35° 55'. Jansen.
+
+[103] See Kæmpfer's Hist. of Japan, vol. i. p 92, 93, 94, and 102.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION IX.
+
+
+Working up to Macao.--A Chinese Comprador.--Sent on Shore to visit the
+Portugueze Governor.--Effects of the Intelligence we received from
+Europe.--Anchor in the Typa.--Passage up to Canton.--Bocca Tygris.--
+Wampu.--Description of a Sampane.--Reception at the English Factory.--
+Instance of the suspicious Character of the Chinese.--Of their Mode of
+trading.--Of the City of Canton.--Its Size.--Population.--Number of
+Sampanes.--Military Force.--Of the Streets and Houses.--Visit to a
+Chinese.--Return to Macao.--Great Demand for the Sea-Otter Skins.--Plan of
+a Voyage for opening a Fur-Trade on the Western Coast of America, and
+prosecuting further Discoveries in the Neighbourhood of Japan.--Departure
+from Macao.--Price of Provisions in China.
+
+
+We kept working to windward till six in the evening, when we came to
+anchor, by the direction of the Chinese pilot on board the Resolution, who
+imagined the tide was setting against us. In this, however, he was much
+deceived; as we found, upon making the experiment, that it set to the
+northward till ten o'clock. The next morning he fell into a similar
+mistake; for, at five, on the appearance of slack water, he gave orders to
+get under weigh; but the ignorance he had discovered, having put us on our
+guard, we chose to be convinced, by our own observations, before we
+weighed; and, on trying the tide, we found a strong under-tow, which
+obliged us to keep fast till eleven o'clock. From these circumstances, it
+appears that the tide had run down twelve hours.
+
+During the afternoon, we kept standing on our tacks, between the island of
+Potoe, and the Grand Ladrone, having passed to the eastward of the former.
+At nine o'clock, the tide beginning to ebb, we again came to anchor in six
+fathoms water; the town of Macao bearing N.W., three leagues distant; and
+the island of Potoe, S. 1/2 W., two leagues distant. This island lies two
+leagues to the N.N.W.. of the island marked Z in Mr Dalrymple's chart,
+which we, at first, took to be part of the Grand Ladrone. It is small and
+rocky; and, off the west end, there is said to be foul ground, though we
+passed near it without perceiving any.
+
+In the forenoon of the 2d, one of the Chinese contractors, who are called
+_compradors_, went on board the Resolution, and sold to Captain Gore two
+hundred pounds weight of beef, together with a considerable quantity of
+greens, oranges, and eggs. A proportionable share of these articles was
+sent to the Discovery; and an agreement made with the man to furnish us
+with a daily supply, for which, however, he insisted on being paid before-
+hand.
+
+Our pilot, pretending he could carry the ships no farther, Captain Gore was
+obliged to discharge him, and we were left to our own guidance.
+
+At two in the afternoon, the tide flowing, we weighed, and worked to
+windward; and at seven, anchored in three and a half fathoms of water,
+Macao bearing W., three miles-distant. This situation was, indeed, very
+ineligible, being exposed to the N.E., and having shoal water, not more
+than two fathoms and a half deep, to leeward; but as no nautical
+description is given, in Lord Anson's voyage, of the harbour in which the
+Centurion anchored, and Mr Dalrymple's general map, which was the only one
+on board, was on too small a scale to serve for our direction, the ships
+were obliged to remain there all night.
+
+In the evening, Captain Gore sent me on shore to visit the Portugueze
+governor, and to request his assistance in procuring refreshments for our
+crews, which he thought might be done on more reasonable terms than the
+_comprador_ would undertake to furnish them. At the same time, I took a
+list of the naval stores, of which both vessels were greatly in want, with
+an intention of proceeding immediately to Canton, and applying to the
+servants of the East India Company, who were, at that time, resident there.
+On my arrival at the citadel, the fort-major informed me, that the governor
+was sick, and not able to see company; but that we might be assured of
+receiving every assistance in their power. This, however, I understood
+would be very inconsiderable, as they were entirely dependent on the
+Chinese, even for their daily subsistence. Indeed, the answer returned to
+the first request I made, gave me a sufficient proof of the fallen state of
+the Portugueze power; for, on my acquainting the major with my desire of
+proceeding immediately to Canton, he told me, that they could not venture
+to furnish me with a boat, till leave was obtained from the _Hoppo_, or
+officer of the customs; and that the application for this purpose must be
+made to the Chinese government at Canton.
+
+The mortification I felt at meeting with this unexpected delay, could only
+be equalled by the extreme impatience with which we had so long waited for
+an opportunity of receiving intelligence from Europe. It often happens,
+that in the eager pursuit of an object, we overlook the easiest and most
+obvious means of attaining it. This was actually my case at present; for I
+was returning under great dejection to the ship, when the Portugueze
+officer, who attended me, asked me, if I did not mean to visit the English
+gentlemen at Macao. I need not add with what transport I received the
+information this question conveyed to me; nor the anxious hopes and fears,
+the conflict between curiosity and apprehension, which passed in my mind,
+as we walked toward the house of one of our countrymen.
+
+In this state of agitation, it was not surprising, that our reception,
+though no way deficient in civility or kindness, should appear cold and
+formal. In our enquiries, as far as they related to objects of private
+concern, we met, as was indeed, to be expected, with little or no
+satisfaction; but the events of a public nature, which had happened since
+our departure, and now, for the first time, burst all at once upon us,
+overwhelmed every other feeling, and left us, for some time, almost without
+the power of reflection. For several days we continued questioning each
+other about the truth of what we had heard, as if desirous of seeking, in
+doubt and suspense, for that relief and consolation, which the reality of
+our calamities appeared totally to exclude. These sensations were succeeded
+by the most poignant regret at finding ourselves cut off, at such a
+distance, from the scene where, we imagined, the fate of fleets and armies
+was every moment deciding.[104]
+
+The intelligence we had just received of the state of affairs in Europe,
+made us the more exceedingly anxious to hasten our departure as much as
+possible; and I, therefore, renewed my attempt to procure a passage to
+Canton, but without effect. The difficulty arising from the established
+policy of the country, I was now told, would probably be much increased by
+an incident that had happened a few weeks before our arrival. Captain
+Panton, in the Seahorse, a ship of war of twenty-four guns, had been sent
+from Madras, to urge the payment of a debt owing by the Chinese merchants
+of Canton to private British subjects in the East Indies and Europe, which,
+including the principal and compound interest, amounted, I understood, to
+near a million sterling. For this purpose, he had orders to insist on an
+audience with the Viceroy of Canton, which, after some delay, and not
+without recourse being had to threats, was, at length, obtained.
+
+The answer he received, on the subject of his mission, was fair and
+satisfactory; but, immediately after his departure, an edict was stuck up
+on the houses of the Europeans, and in the public places of the city,
+forbidding all foreigners, on any pretence, to lend money to the subjects
+of the emperor.
+
+This measure had occasioned very serious alarms at Canton. The Chinese
+merchants, who had incurred the debt contrary to the commercial laws of
+their own country, and denied, in part, the justice of the demand, were
+afraid that intelligence of this would be carried to Pekin; and that the
+emperor, who had the character of a just and rigid prince, might punish
+them with the loss of their fortunes, if not of their lives. On the other
+hand, the select committee, to whom the cause of the claimants was strongly
+recommended by the presidency of Madras, were extremely apprehensive, lest
+they should embroil themselves with the Chinese government at Canton; and,
+by that means, bring, perhaps, irreparable mischief on the Company's
+affairs in China. For I was further informed, that the _Mandarins_ were
+always ready to take occasion, even on the slightest grounds, to put a stop
+to their trading; and that it was often with great difficulty, and never
+without certain expence, that they could get such restraints taken off.
+These impositions were daily increasing; and, indeed, found it a prevailing
+opinion, in all the European factories, that they should soon be reduced
+either to quit the commerce of that country, or to bear the same
+indignities to which the Dutch are subjected in Japan.
+
+The arrival of the Resolution and Discovery, at such a time, could not fail
+of occasioning fresh alarms; and, therefore, finding there was no
+probability of my proceeding to Canton, I dispatched a letter to the
+English supercargoes, to acquaint them with the cause of our putting into
+the Typa, to request their assistance in procuring me a passport, and in
+forwarding the stores we wanted, of which I sent them a list, as
+expeditiously as possible.
+
+The next morning I was accompanied on board by our countryman, who pointing
+out to us the situation of the Typa, we weighed at half past six, and stood
+toward it; but the wind failing, we came to, at eight, in three and a half
+fathoms water; Macao bearing W.N.W., three miles distant; the Grand Ladrone
+S.E. by S. The Resolution here saluted the Portugueze fort with eleven
+guns, which were returned by the same number. Early on the 4th, we again
+weighed, and stood into the Typa, and moored with the stream-anchor and
+cable to the westward.
+
+The _Comprador_, whom we at first engaged with, having disappeared with a
+small sum of money, which had been given him to purchase provisions, we
+contracted with another, who continued to supply both ships, during our
+whole stay. This was done secretly, and in the night-time, under pretence,
+that it was contrary to the regulations of the port; but we suspected all
+this caution to have been used with a view either of enhancing the price of
+the articles he furnished, or of securing to himself the profits of his
+employment, without being obliged to share them with the _Mandarins_.
+
+On the 9th, Captain Gore received an answer from the committee of the
+English supercargoes at Canton, in which they assured him, that their best
+endeavours should be used to procure the supplies we stood in need of, as
+expeditiously as possible; and that a passport should be sent for one of
+his officers, hoping at the same time, that we were sufficiently acquainted
+with the character of the Chinese government, to attribute any delays, that
+might unavoidably happen, to their true cause.
+
+The day following, an English merchant, from one of our settlements in the
+East Indies, applied to Captain Gore for the assistance of a few hands to
+navigate a vessel he had purchased at Macao, up to Canton. Captain Gore
+judging this a good opportunity for me to proceed to that place, gave
+orders that I should take along with me my second lieutenant, the
+lieutenant of marines, and ten seamen. Though this was not precisely the
+mode in which I could have wished to visit Canton, yet as it was very
+uncertain when the passport might arrive, and my presence might contribute
+materially to the expediting of our supplies, I did not hesitate to put
+myself on board, having left orders with Mr Williamson, to get the
+Discovery ready for sea as soon as possible, and to make such additions and
+alterations in her upper works, as might contribute to make her more
+defensible. That the series of our astronomical observations might suffer
+no interruption by my absence, I entrusted the care of continuing them to
+Mr Trevenen, in whose abilities and diligence I could repose an entire
+confidence.
+
+We left the harbour of Macao on the 11th of December, and sailing round the
+south-eastern extremity of the island, we steered to the northward,
+leaving, as we passed along, Lantao, Lintin, and several smaller islands,
+to the right. All these islands, as well as that of Macao, which lie to the
+left, are entirely without wood; the land is high and barren, and
+uninhabited, except occasionally by fishermen. As we approached the Bocca
+Tygris, which is thirteen leagues from Macao, the Chinese coast appears to
+the eastward in steep white cliffs; the two forts, commanding the mouth of
+the river, are exactly in the same state as when Lord Anson was there; that
+on the left is a fine old castle, surrounded by a grove of trees, and has
+an agreeable romantic appearance.
+
+We were here visited by an officer of the customs; on which occasion the
+owner of the vessel, being apprehensive that, if we were discovered on
+board, it would occasion some alarm, and might be attended with
+disagreeable consequences, begged us to retire into the cabin below.
+
+The breadth of the river above these forts is variable, the banks being low
+and flat, and subject to be overflowed by the tide to a great extent. The
+ground on each side is level and laid out in rice-fields; but as we
+advanced, it rose gradually into hills of considerable declivity, the sides
+of which are cut into terraces, and planted with sweet potatoes, sugar-
+canes, yams, plantains, and the cotton-tree. We saw many lofty _pagodas_,
+scattered over the country, and several towns at a distance, some of which
+appeared to be of a considerable size.
+
+We did not arrive at Wampû, which is only nine leagues from the Bocca
+Tygris, till the 18th, our progress having been retarded by contrary winds,
+and the lightness of the vessel. Wampû is a small Chinese town, off which
+the ships of the different nations, who trade here, lie, in order to take
+in their lading. The river, higher up, is said by M. Sonnerat not to be
+deep enough to admit heavy-laden vessels, even if the policy of the Chinese
+had suffered the Europeans to navigate them up to Canton; but this
+circumstance I cannot take upon me to decide on, as no stranger, I believe,
+has been permitted to inform himself with certainty of the truth. The small
+islands, that lie opposite to the town are allotted to the several
+factories, who have built warehouses for the reception of the merchandise
+that is brought down from Canton.
+
+From Wampû, I immediately proceeded in a _sampane_, or Chinese boat, to
+Canton, which is about two leagues and a half higher up the river. These
+boats are the neatest and most convenient for passengers I ever saw. They
+are of various sizes, almost flat at the bottom, very broad upon the beam,
+and narrow at the head and stern, which are raised and ornamented; the
+middle, where we sat, was arched over with a roof of bamboo, which may be
+raised or lowered at pleasure; in the sides were small windows with
+shutters, and the apartment was furnished with handsome mats, chairs, and
+tables. In the stern was placed a small waxen idol, in a case of gilt
+leather, before which stood a pot, containing lighted tapers made of dry
+chips, or matches, and gum. The hire of this boat was a Spanish dollar.
+
+I reached Canton a little after it was dark, and landed at the English
+factory, where, though my arrival was very unexpected, I was received with
+every mark of attention and civility. The select committee, at this time,
+consisted of Mr Fitzhugh, the president, Mr Bevan and Mr Rapier. They
+immediately gave me an account of such stores as the India ships were able
+to afford us; and though I have not the smallest doubt, that the commanders
+were desirous of assisting us with every thing they could spare,
+consistently with a regard to their own safety, and the interest of their
+employers, yet it was a great disappointment to me to find in their list
+scarcely any articles of cordage or canvass, of both which we stood
+principally in need. It was, however, some consolation to understand, that
+the stores were in readiness for shipping, and that the provisions we
+required might be had at a day's notice. Wishing, therefore, to make my
+stay here as short as possible, I requested the gentlemen to procure junks
+or boats for me the next day, with an intention of leaving Canton the
+following one; but I was soon informed, that a business of that kind was
+not to be transacted so rapidly in this country; that leave must be first
+procured from the viceroy; that the _Hoppo_, or principal officer of the
+customs, must be applied to for _chops_, or permits; and that these favours
+were not granted without mature deliberation: in short, that patience was
+an indispensable virtue in China; and that they hoped to have the pleasure
+of making the factory agreeable to me, for a few days longer than I seemed
+willing to favour them with my company.
+
+Though I was not much disposed to relish this compliment, yet I could not
+help being diverted with an incident that occurred very opportunely to
+convince me of the truth of their representations, and of the suspicious
+character of the Chinese. The reader will recollect, that it was now about
+fifteen days since Captain Gore had written to the factory, to desire their
+assistance in procuring leave for one of his officers to pass to Canton. In
+consequence of this application, they had engaged one of the principal
+Chinese merchants of the place, to interest himself in our favour, and to
+solicit the business with the viceroy. This person came to visit the
+president, whilst we were talking on the subject, and with great
+satisfaction and complacency in his countenance acquainted him, that he had
+at last succeeded in his applications, and that a passport for one of the
+officers of the _Ladrone_ ship (or pirate) would be ready in a few days.
+The president immediately told him not to give himself any farther trouble,
+as the officer, pointing to me, was already arrived. It is impossible to
+describe the terror which seized the old man on hearing this intelligence.
+His head sunk upon his breast, and the sofa on which he was sitting shook,
+from the violence of his agitation. Whether the _Ladrone_ ship was the
+object of his apprehensions, or his own government, I could not discover;
+but after continuing in this deplorable state a few minutes, Mr Bevan bade
+him not despair, and recounted to him the manner in which I had passed from
+Macao, the reasons of my journey to Canton, and my wishes to leave it as
+soon as possible. This last circumstance seemed particularly agreeable to
+him, and gave me hopes, that I should find him equally disposed to hasten
+my departure; and yet, as soon as he had recovered the courage to speak, he
+began to recount the unavoidable delays that would occur in my business,
+the difficulty of gaining admittance to the viceroy, the jealousies and
+suspicions of the _Mandarins_, respecting our real designs, which had
+risen, he said, to an extraordinary height, from the strange account we had
+given of ourselves.
+
+After waiting several days, with great impatience, for the event of our
+application, without understanding that the matter was at all advanced
+toward a conclusion, I applied to the commander of an English country ship,
+who was to sail on the 25th, and who offered to take the men and stores on
+board, and to lie-to, if the weather should permit, off Macao, till we
+could send boats to take them out of his ship. At the same time he apprised
+me of the danger there might be of his being driven with them out to sea.
+Whilst I was doubting what measures to pursue, the commander of another
+country ship brought me a letter from Captain Gore, in which he acquainted
+me, that he had engaged him to bring us down from Canton, and to deliver
+the stores we had procured, at his own risk, in the Typa. All our
+difficulties being thus removed, I had leisure to attend to the purchase of
+our provisions and stores, which was completed on the 26th; and the day
+following, the whole stock was sent on board.
+
+As Canton was likely to be the most advantageous market for furs, I was
+desired by Captain Gore to carry with me about twenty sea-otters' skins,
+chiefly the property of our deceased commanders, and to dispose of them at
+the best price I could procure; a commission which gave me an opportunity
+of becoming a little acquainted with the genius of the Chinese for trade.
+Having acquainted some of the English supercargoes with these
+circumstances, I desired them to recommend me to some Chinese merchant of
+credit and reputation, who would at once offer me a fair and reasonable
+price. I was accordingly directed to a member of the _Hong_; a society of
+the principal merchants of the place; who being fully informed of the
+nature of the business, appeared sensible of the delicacy of my situation;
+assured me I might depend on his integrity; and that, in a case of this
+sort, he should consider himself merely as an agent, without looking for
+any profit to himself. Having laid my goods before him, he examined them
+with great care, over and over again, and at last told me, that he could
+not venture to offer more than three hundred dollars for them. As I knew,
+from the price our skins had sold for in Kamtschatka, that he had not
+offered me one-half their value, I found myself under the necessity of
+driving a bargain. In my turn, I therefore demanded one thousand; my
+Chinese then advanced to five hundred; then offered me a private present of
+tea and porcelain, amounting to one hundred more; then the same sum in
+money; and, lastly, rose to seven hundred dollars, on which I fell to nine
+hundred. Here, each side declaring he would not recede, we parted; but the
+Chinese soon returned with a list of India goods, which he now proposed I
+should take in exchange, and which, I was afterwards told, would have
+amounted in value, if honestly delivered, to double the sum he had before
+offered. Finding I did not choose to deal in this mode, he proposed as his
+ultimatum, that we should divide the difference, which, being tired of the
+contest, I consented to, and received the eight hundred dollars.
+
+The ill health, which at this time I laboured under, left me little reason
+to lament the very narrow limits within which the policy of the Chinese
+obliges every European at Canton to confine his curiosity. I should
+otherwise have fell exceedingly tantalized with living under the walls of
+so great a city, full of objects of novelty, without being able to enter
+it. The accounts given on this place, by Peres le Comte and Du Halde, are
+in every one's hand. These authors have lately been accused of great
+exaggeration by M. Sonnerat; for which reason, the following observations,
+collected from the information with which I have been obligingly furnished
+by several English gentlemen, who were a long time resident at Canton, may
+not be unacceptable to the public.
+
+Canton, including the old and new town, and the suburbs, is about ten miles
+in circuit. With respect to its population, if one may judge of the whole,
+from what is seen in the suburbs, I should conceive it to fall considerably
+short of an European town of the same magnitude. Le Comte estimated the
+number of inhabitants at one million five hundred thousand; Du Halde at one
+million; and M. Sonnerat says he has ascertained them to be no more than
+seventy-five thousand;[105] but as this gentleman has not favoured us with
+the grounds on which his calculation was founded, and, besides, appears as
+desirous of depreciating every thing that relates to the Chinese, as the
+Jesuits may be of magnifying, his opinion certainly admits of some doubt.
+The following circumstances may perhaps lead the reader to form a judgment
+with tolerable accuracy on this subject.
+
+A Chinese house, undoubtedly, occupies more space than is usually taken up
+by houses in Europe; but the proportion, suggested by M. Sonnerat, of four
+or five to one, certainly goes much beyond the truth. To this should be
+added, that a great many houses, in the suburbs of Canton, are occupied for
+commercial purposes only, by merchants and rich tradesmen, whose families
+live entirely within the city. On the other hand, a Chinese family appears
+to consist, on an average, of more persons than an European. A _Mandarin_,
+according to his rank and substance, has from five to twenty wives. A
+merchant, from three to five. One of this class at Canton, had, indeed,
+twenty-five wives, and thirty-six children; but this was mentioned to me as
+a very extraordinary instance. An opulent tradesman has usually two; and
+the lower class of people very rarely more than one. Their servants are at
+least double in number to those employed by persons of the same condition
+in Europe. If, then, we suppose a Chinese family one-third larger, and an
+European house two-thirds less than each other, a Chinese city will contain
+only half the number of inhabitants contained in an European town of the
+same size. According to these _data_, the city and suburbs of Canton may
+probably contain about one hundred and fifty thousand.
+
+With respect to the number of inhabited _sampanes_, I found different
+opinions were entertained; but none placing them lower than forty thousand.
+They are moored in rows close to each other, with a narrow passage, at
+intervals, for the boats to pass up and down the river. As the Tygris, at
+Canton, is somewhat wider than the Thames at London; and the whole river is
+covered in this manner for the extent of at least a mile, this account of
+their number does not appear to me in the least exaggerated; and if it be
+allowed, the number of inhabitants in the sampanes alone (for each of them
+contains one family) must amount to nearly three times the number supposed
+by M. Sonnerat to be in the whole city.
+
+The military force of the province, of which Canton is the capital, amounts
+to fifty thousand men. It is said, that twenty thousand are stationed in
+and about the city; and, as a proof of this, I was assured, that, on the
+occasion of some disturbance that had happened at Canton, thirty thousand
+men were drawn together within the space of a few hours.
+
+The streets are long, and most of them narrow and irregular, but well paved
+with large stones, and, for the most part, kept exceedingly clean. The
+houses are built of brick, one story high, having generally two or three
+courts backward, in which are the warehouses for merchandise, and, in the
+houses within the city, the apartments for the women. A very few of the
+meanest sort are built of wood.
+
+The houses belonging to the European factors are built on an handsome quay,
+with a regular facade of two stories toward the river, and disposed within,
+partly after the European, and partly after the Chinese manner. Adjoining
+to these are a number of houses belonging to the Chinese, and hired out to
+the commanders of ships and merchants, who make an occasional stay. As no
+European is allowed to bring his wife to Canton, the English supercargoes
+live together at a common table, which is kept by the company, and have
+each a separate apartment, consisting of three or four rooms. The time of
+their residence seldom exceeds eight months annually; and as they are
+pretty constantly employed, during that time, in the service of the
+company, they may submit with the less regret to the restraints they are
+kept under. They very rarely pay any visits within the walls of Canton,
+except on public occasions. Indeed, nothing gave me so unfavourable an idea
+of the character of the Chinese, as to find, that, amongst so many persons
+of liberal minds and amiable manners, some of whom have resided in that
+country for near fifteen years together, they have never formed any
+friendship or social connection. As soon as the last ship quits Wampû, they
+are all obliged to retire to Macao; but, as a proof of the excellent police
+of the country, they leave all the money they possess in specie behind
+them, which, I was told, sometimes amounted to one hundred thousand pounds
+sterling, and for which they had no other security than the seals of the
+merchants of the hong, the viceroy, and mandarins.
+
+During my stay at Canton, I was carried, by one of the English gentlemen,
+to visit a person of the first consequence in the place. We were received
+in a long room or gallery, at the upper end of which stood a table, with a
+large chair behind it, and a row of chairs extending from it on each side
+down the room. Being previously instructed, that the point of civility
+consisted in remaining as long unseated as possible, I readily acquitted
+myself of this piece of etiquette; after which we were entertained with tea
+and some preserved and fresh fruits. Our host was very fat, with a heavy
+dull countenance, and of great gravity in his deportment. He spoke a little
+broken English and Portuguese; and, after we had taken our refreshment, he
+carried us about his house and garden; and having shewed us all the
+improvements he was making, we took our leave.
+
+Having procured an account of the price of provisions at Canton, as settled
+for the year 1780, which the reader will find at the end of this section, I
+have only to observe, that the different articles are supposed to be the
+best of the kind; and that the natives purchase the same for nearly one-
+third less than the price, which, in the list, is fixed only for strangers.
+
+I had hitherto intended, as well to avoid the trouble and delay of applying
+for passports, as to save the unnecessary expence of hiring a sampane,
+which, I understood, amounted at least to twelve pounds sterling, to go
+along with the stores to Macao, in the country merchant's ship I have
+before mentioned; but having received an invitation from two English
+gentlemen, who had obtained passports for four, I accepted, along with Mr
+Philips, their offer of places in a Chinese boat, and left Mr Lannyon to
+take care of the men and stores, which were to sail the next day. In the
+evening of the 26th, I took my leave of the supercargoes, having thanked
+them for their many obliging favours; amongst which I must not forget to
+mention an handsome present of tea for the use of the ships' companies, and
+a large collection of English periodical publications. The latter we found
+a valuable acquisition; as they both served to amuse our impatience, during
+our tedious voyage home, and enabled us to return not total strangers to
+what had been transacting in our native country. At one o'clock the next
+morning we left Canton, and arrived at Macao about the same hour the day
+following, having passed down a channel, which lies to the westward of that
+by which we had come up.
+
+During our absence, a brisk trade had been carrying on with the Chinese for
+the sea-otter skins, which had every day been rising in their value. One of
+our seamen sold his stock alone for eight hundred dollars; and a few prime
+skins, which were clean, and had been well preserved, were sold for one
+hundred and twenty each. The whole amount of the value, in specie and
+goods, that was got for the furs, in both ships, I am confident, did not
+fall short of two thousand pounds sterling; and it was generally supposed,
+that at least two-thirds of the quantity we had originally got from the
+Americans, were spoiled and worn out, or had been given away, and otherwise
+disposed of in Kamtschatka. When, in addition to these facts, it is
+remembered, that the furs were at first collected without our having any
+idea of their real value; that the greatest part had been worn by the
+Indians, from whom we purchased them; that they were afterward preserved
+with little care, and frequently used for bed-clothes, and other purposes,
+during our cruise to the north; and that, probably, we had never got the
+full-value for them in China; the advantages that might be derived from a
+voyage to that part of the American coast, undertaken with commercial
+views, appear to me of a degree of importance sufficient to call for the
+attention of the public.
+
+The rage with which our seamen were possessed to return to Cook's river,
+and by another cargo of skins to make their fortunes, at one time was not
+far short of mutiny; and I must own, I could not help indulging myself in a
+project, which the disappointment we had suffered, in being obliged to
+leave the Japanese archipelago, and the northern coast of China,
+unexplored, first suggested; and, by what I conceived, that object might
+still be happily accomplished, through means of the East India Company, not
+only without expence, but even with the prospect of very considerable
+advantages. Though the situation of affairs at home, or perhaps greater
+difficulties in the execution of my scheme than I had foreseen, have
+hitherto prevented its being carried into effect, yet, as I find the plan
+in my journal, and still retain my partiality for it, I hope it will not be
+entirely foreign to the nature of this work, if I beg leave to insert it
+here.
+
+I proposed then, that the company's China ships should carry an additional
+complement of men each, making in all one hundred. Two vessels, one of two
+hundred, and the other of one hundred and fifty tons, might, I was told,
+with, proper notice, be readily purchased at Canton; and, as victualling is
+not dearer there than in Europe, I calculate, that they might be completely
+fitted out for sea, with a year's pay and provision, for six thousand
+pounds, including the purchase. The expence of the necessary articles for
+barter is scarcely worth mentioning. I would, by all means, recommend, that
+each ship should have five tons of unwrought iron, a forge, and an expert
+smith, with a journeyman and apprentice, who might be ready to forge such
+tools as it should appear the Indians were most desirous of. For, though
+six of the finest skins purchased by us, were got for a dozen large green
+glass beads, yet it is well known, that the fancy of these people for
+articles of ornament is exceedingly capricious; and that iron is the only
+sure commodity for their market. To this might be added a few gross of
+large-pointed case-knives, some bales of coarse woollen cloth, (linen they
+would not accept of from us,) and a barrel or two of copper and glass
+trinkets.
+
+I have here proposed two ships, not only for the greater security of the
+expedition, but because I think single ships ought never to be sent out on
+discoveries. For where risks are to be run, and doubtful and hazardous
+experiments tried, it cannot be expected that single ships should venture
+so far, as where there is some security provided against untoward accident.
+
+The vessels being now ready for sea, will sail with the first south-
+westerly monsoon, which generally sets in about the beginning of April.
+With this wind they will steer to the northward, along the coast of China,
+beginning a more accurate survey from the mouth of the river Kyana, or the
+Nankin River, in latitude 30°, which, I believe, is the utmost limit of
+this coast hitherto visited by European ships. As the extent of that deep
+gulf called Whang Hay, or the Yellow Sea, is at present unknown, it must be
+left to the discretion of the commander, to proceed up it as far as he may
+judge prudent; but he must be cautious not to entangle himself too far in
+it, lest he should want time for the prosecution of the remaining part of
+his enterprise. The same discretion must be used when he arrives in the
+Straits of Tessoi, with respect to the islands of Jeso, which, if the wind
+and weather be favourable, he will not lose the opportunity of exploring.
+
+Having proceeded to the latitude of 51° 40', where he will make the
+southernmost point of the island of Sagaleen, beyond which the sea of
+Okotzk is sufficiently known, he will steer to the southward, probably in
+the beginning of June, and endeavour to fall in with the southernmost of
+the Kurile Islands. Ooroop, or Nadeschda, according to the accounts of the
+Russians, will furnish the ships with a good harbour, where they may wood
+and water, and take in such other refreshments as the place may afford.
+Toward the end of June, they will shape their course for the Shummagins,
+and from thence to Cook's River, purchasing, as they proceed, as many skins
+as they are able, without losing too much time, since they ought to steer
+again to the southward, and trace the coast with great accuracy from the
+latitude of 56° to 50°, the space from which we were driven out of sight of
+land by contrary winds. It should here be remarked, that I consider the
+purchase of skins, in this expedition, merely a secondary object, for
+defraying the expence; and it cannot be doubted, from our experience in the
+present voyage, that two hundred and fifty skins, worth one hundred dollars
+each, may be procured without any loss of time; especially as it is
+probable they will be met with along the coast to the southward of Cook's
+River.
+
+Having spent three months on the coast of America, they will set out on
+their return to China early in the month of October, avoiding, in their
+route, as much as possible, the tracks of former navigators. I have now
+only to add, that if the fur trade should become a fixed object of Indian
+commerce, frequent opportunities will occur of completing whatever may be
+left unfinished, in the voyage of which I have here ventured to delineate
+the outlines.
+
+The barter which had been carrying on with the Chinese for sea-otter skins,
+had produced a very whimsical change in the dress of all our crew. On our
+arrival in the Typa, nothing could exceed the ragged appearance both of the
+younger officers and seamen; for, as our voyage had already exceeded, by
+near a twelvemonth, the time it was at first imagined we should remain at
+sea, almost the whole of our original stock of European clothes had been
+long worn Out, or patched up with skins and the various manufactures we had
+met with in the course of our discoveries. These were now again mixed and
+eked out with the gaudiest silks and cottons of China.
+
+On the 30th, Mr Lannyon arrived with the stores and provisions, which were
+immediately stowed, in due proportion, on board the two ships. The next
+day, agreeably to a bargain made by Captain Gore, I sent our sheet-anchor
+to the country ship, and received in return the guns, which she before rode
+by.
+
+Whilst we lay in the Typa, I was shewn, in a garden belonging to an English
+gentleman at Macao, the rock, under which, as the tradition there goes, the
+poet Camoens used lo sit and compose his Lusiad. It is a lofty arch, of one
+solid stone, and forms the entrance of a grotto, dug out of the rising
+ground behind it. The rock is overshadowed by large spreading trees, and
+commands an extensive and magnificent view of the sea, and the interspersed
+islands.
+
+On the 11th of January, two seamen, belonging to the Resolution, found
+means to run off with a six-oared cutter, and, notwithstanding diligent
+search was made both that and the following day, we were never able to
+learn any tidings of her. It was supposed, that these people had been
+seduced by the prevailing notion of making a fortune, by returning to the
+fur islands.
+
+As we heard nothing, during our stay in the Typa, of the measurement of our
+ships, it may be concluded, that the point, so strongly contested by the
+Chinese, in Lord Anson's time, has, in consequence of his firmness and
+resolution, never since been insisted on.
+
+The following nautical observations were made while we lay here:
+
+
+Harbour of Macao                lat.  22°  12'  0" north.
+                               long. 113   47   0  east.
+
+Anchoring-place in the          lat.  22    9  20  north.
+Typa                           long. 113   48  34  east.
+
+Mean dip of the north
+pole of the magnetic                  21    1   0
+needle
+
+Variation of the compass               0   19   0  west.
+
+
+On the full and change days it was high water in the Typa at 5^h 15^m, and
+in Macao harbour at 5^h 50^m. The greatest rise was six feet one inch. The
+flood appeared to come from the south-eastward; but we could not determine
+this point with certainty, on account of the great number of islands which
+lie off the mouth of the river of Canton.
+
+
+_Prices of Provisions at Canton_, 1780.
+
+                           £.  s.  d.
+Annas                      0   4   0       a score.
+Arrack                     0   0   8       per bottle.
+Butter                     0   2   0-4/5   per catty.[106]
+Beef, Canton               0   0   2-3/4
+Ditto, Macao               0   0   5-1/5
+Birds' nests               3   6   8
+Biscuit                    0   0   4
+Beache de Mar              0   2   0-4/5
+Calf                       1   6   9-3/5
+Caravances, dried          0   0   2-2/3
+Cabbage, Nankeen           0   0   4-4/5
+Curry stuff                0   4   4
+Coffee                     0   1   4       per catty.
+Cocoa-nuts                 0   0   4       each.
+Charcoal                   0   3   4       per pecul.
+Coxice                     0   1   4       per catty.
+Canton nuts                0   0   4
+Chesnuts                   0   0   2-2/5
+Cockles                    0   0   3-1/5
+Ducks                      0   0   5-1/5
+Ditto, wild                0   1   0-4/5
+Deers' sinews              0   2   1-3/5
+Eels                       0   0   6-2/5
+Eggs                       0   2   0       per hundred.
+Fish, common               0   0   3-1/5   per catty.
+Ditto, best                0   0   6-2/5
+Ditto salted, Nankeen      0   0   9-3/5
+Fruit                      0   0   1-3/5
+Ditto, Nankeen             0   2   0
+Frogs                      0   0   6-2/5
+Flour                      0   0   1-76/100
+Fowls, capons, &c.         0   0   7-1/5
+Fish-maws                  0   2   1-3/5
+Geese                      0   0   6-2/5
+Greens                     0   0   1-3/4
+Grass                      0   0   2-2/5   per bundle.
+Grapes                     0   1   0-4/5   per catty.
+Ham                        0   1   2-2/5
+Hartshorn                  0   1   4
+Hogslard                   0   0   7-1/5
+Hog, alive                 0   0   4-3/4
+Kid, alive                 0   0   4-3/4
+Limes                      0   0   0-4/5   per catty.
+Litches, dried             0   0   2-2/5
+Locksoy                    0   0   6-2/5
+Lobchocks                  0   0   5-3/5
+Lamp-oil                   0   0   5-3/5
+Lamp-wick                  0   0   8
+Melons                     0   0   4-4/5   each.
+Milk                       0   0   1-1/4   per catty.
+Ditto, Macao               0   0   3-1/5
+Mustard seed               0   0   6-2/5
+Mushrooms, pickled         0   2   8
+Ditto, fresh               0   1   4
+Oysters                    0   3   4       per   pecul.
+Onions, dried              0   0   2-2/5   per catty.
+Pork                       0   0   7-1/7
+Pig                        0   0   5-3/5
+Paddy                      0   0   0-4/5
+Pepper                     0   1   0-4/5
+Pheasants                  0   5   4       each.
+Partridges                 0   0   9-1/5
+Pigeons                    0   0   5-1/5
+Pomegranates               0   0   2-2/5
+Quails                     0   0   1-3/5
+Rabbits                    0   1   4
+Rice                       0   0   2       per catty.
+Ditto, red                 0   0   2-2/5
+Ditto, coarse              0   0   1-1/5
+Ditto, Japan               0   0   8
+Raisins                    0   2   0
+Sheep                      3   6   8       each.
+Snipes                     0   0   1-1/2   per catty.
+Sturgeon                   0   4   9-3/5
+Ditto, small               0   2   4-4/5
+Sugar                      0   0   3-1/5
+Salt                       0   0   1-3/5
+Saltpetre                  0   2   1-3/5
+Soy                        0   0   1-3/5
+Spices                     0  16   8
+Sweetmeats                 0   0   6-2/5
+Sago                       0   0   3-1/5
+Sallad                     0   0   2-2/5
+Sharks' fins               0   2   1-3/5
+Samsui soy                 0   0   2-2/5
+Teal                       0   0   6-2/5   each.
+Turtle                     0   0   9-3/5   per catty.
+Tea                        0   2   0
+Turmerick                  0   0   2-2/5
+Tamarinds                  0   0   8
+Vinegar                    0   0   1-3/5
+Vermicelli                 0   0   3-1/5
+Wax-candles                0   3   0
+Walnuts                    0   0   4-4/5
+Wood                       0  1  4         per pecul.
+Water                      0  6  8         per 100 barrels.
+
+Rent of Poho Factory     400  0  0         per annum.
+     of Lunsoon          316 13  4
+Servant's rice             0  8  0         per month.
+Ditto wages                0 19  2-1/5     do. for resiants.
+
+                                   _Doll_.
+Servant's wages for the season     20
+Steward's wages                    80
+Butler's ditto                     80 per annum.
+
+_Prices of Labour_.
+
+A coolee, or porter        0   0   8     per day.
+A tailor                   0   0   5     and rice.
+A handicraftsman           0   0   8
+A common labourer, from 3d. to 5d.
+A woman's labour considerably cheaper.
+
+
+[104] It is scarcely necessary to inform any reader that Captain King here
+    alludes to the American war, in which first the French and then the
+    Spaniards took part against Great Britain. The passage is certainly a
+    very striking evidence of that enthusiasm which animates our gallant
+    seamen in all corners of the globe, to feel and to fight for Old
+    England; and perhaps to this spirit, as well as to his eminent
+    professional abilities in other respects, we may ascribe Captain
+    King's appointment, not long after his return home, to the command of
+    the Resistance man of war, sent on service to the West Indies.--E.
+
+[105] J'ai _verifié_ moi-même, avec plusieurs Chinois, la population
+    de Canton, de la ville de Tartare, et de celie de Battaux,
+    &c.--_Voyage aux Indes, &c_. par M. Sonnerat, tom. ii. p. 14.
+
+[106] A catty is 18 oz.--A pecul 100 catty.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION X.
+
+
+Leave the Typa.--Orders of the Court of France respecting Captain Cook.--
+Resolutions in consequence thereof.--Strike Soundings on the Macclesfield
+Banks.--Pass Pulo Sapata.--Steer for Pulo Condore.--Anchor at Pulo
+Condore.--Transactions during our Stay.--Journey to the principal Town.--
+Receive a Visit from a Mandarin.--Examine his Letters.--Refreshments to be
+procured.--Description, and present State of the Island.--Its produce.--An
+Assertion of M. Sonnerat refuted.--Astronomical and Nautical Observations.
+
+
+On the 12th of January, 1780, at noon, we unmoored, and scaled the guns,
+which, on board my ship, now amounted to ten; so that, by means of four
+additional ports, we could, if occasion required, fight seven on a side. In
+like manner, the Resolution had increased the number of her guns from
+twelve to sixteen; and, in both ships, a stout barricade was carried round
+their upper works, and every other precaution taken to give our small force
+as respectable an appearance as possible.
+
+We thought it our duty to provide ourselves with these means of defence,
+though we had some reason to believe that the generosity of our enemies
+had, in a great measure, rendered them superfluous. We were informed at
+Canton, that the public prints, which had arrived last from England, made
+mention of instructions having been found on board all the French ships of
+war, captured in Europe, directing their commanders, in case of falling in
+with the ships that sailed under the command of Captain Cook, to suffer
+them to proceed on their voyage without molestation. The same orders were
+also said to have been given by the American congress to the vessels
+employed in their service. As this intelligence was farther confirmed by
+the private letters of several of the supercargoes, Captain Gore thought
+himself bound, in return for the liberal exceptions made in our favour, to
+refrain from availing himself of any opportunities of capture which these
+seas might afford, and to preserve, throughout his voyage, the strictest
+neutrality.[107]
+
+At two in the afternoon, having got under sail, the Resolution saluted the
+fort of Macao with eleven guns, which was returned with the same number. At
+five, the wind dropping, the ship missed stays, and drove into shallow
+water; but, by carrying out an anchor, she was hauled off without receiving
+the smallest damage. The weather continuing calm, we were obliged to warp
+out into the entrance of the Typa, which we gained by eight o'clock, and
+lay there till nine the next morning; when, by the help of a fresh breeze
+from the east, we stood to the southward, between Potoe and Wungboo.
+
+At noon, we were saluted by a Swedish ship, as she passed us, on her way to
+Europe. At four, the Ladrone bore E., distant two leagues. We now steered
+S. 1/2 E., with a fresh breeze from the E.N.E., without any occurrence
+worth remarking, till noon of the 15th, when, being in latitude 18° 57',
+and longitude 114° 13', the wind veering to the N., we directed our course
+half a point more to the eastward, in order to strike soundings over the
+Macclesfield Bank. This we effected at eight in the evening of the 16th,
+and found the depth of water to be fifty fathoms, over a bottom of white
+sand and shells. This part of the Macclesfield shoals we placed in latitude
+15° 51', and in longitude 114° 20'; which agrees very exactly with the
+position given in Mr Dalrymple's map, whose general accuracy, if it stood
+in need of any support, was confirmed, in this instance, by a great number
+of lunar observations, which we had an opportunity of making every day
+since we left the Typa. The variation was found to be, in the forenoon, 0°
+39' W.
+
+On the 17th, we had heavy gales from the E. by N., with a rough tumbling
+sea, and the weather overcast and boisterous. On the 18th, the wind still
+continuing to blow strong, and the sea to run high, we altered our course
+to S.W. by S.; and at noon, being in latitude 12° 34', longitude 112°, we
+began to steer a point more to the westward for Pulo Sapata, which we saw
+on the 19th, at four in the afternoon, bearing N.W. by W., about four
+leagues distant. This small, high, barren island, is called _Sapata_, from
+its resemblance of a shoe. Our observations, compared with Mr Bayley's
+time-keeper, place it in latitude 10° 4' N. longitude 109° 10' E. The gale
+had, at this time, increased with such violence, and the sea ran so high,
+as to oblige us to close-reef the topsails. During the last three days, the
+ships had outrun their reckoning at the rate of twenty miles a-day, and as
+we could not attribute the whole of this to the effects of a following sea,
+we imputed it in part to a current, which, according to my own
+calculations, had set forty-two miles to the S.S.W., between the noon of
+the 19th and the noon of the 20th; and is taken into the account in
+determining the situation of the island.
+
+After passing Sapata, we steered to the westward; and at midnight sounded,
+and had ground with fifty fathoms of line, over a fine sandy bottom. In the
+morning of the 20th, the wind becoming more moderate, we let out the reefs,
+and steered W. by S. for Pulo Condore. At noon, the latitude was 8° 46' N.,
+longitude 106° 45' E.; and at half-past twelve we got sight of the island,
+bearing W. At four, the extremes of Pulo Condore, and the islands that lie
+off it, bore S.E. and S.W. by W.; our distance from the nearest islands
+being two miles. We kept to the N. of the islands, and stood for the
+harbour on the S.W. end of Condore, which, having its entrance from the
+N.W. is the best sheltered during the N.E. monsoon. At six, we anchored,
+with the best bower, in six fathoms, veered away two-thirds of the cable,
+and kept the ship steady with a stream-anchor and cable to the S.E. When
+moored, the extremes of the entrance of the harbour bore N. by W., and
+W.N.W. 1/4 W.; the opening at the upper end S.E. by E. 3/4 E.; our distance
+from the nearest shore a quarter of a mile.
+
+As soon as we were come to anchor, Captain Gore fired a gun, with a view of
+apprising the natives of our arrival, and drawing them toward the shore,
+but without effect. Early in the morning of the 21st, parties were sent to
+cut wood, which was Captain Gore's principal motive for coming hither. In
+the afternoon, a sudden gust of wind broke the stream-cable, by which the
+Discovery was riding, and obliged us to moor with the bower-anchors.
+
+None of the natives having yet made their appearance, notwithstanding a
+second gun had been fired, Captain Gore thought it adviseable to land, and
+go in search of them, that no time might be lost in opening a trade for
+such provisions as the place could afford; with this view he appointed me
+to accompany him, in the morning of the 22d; and, as the wind at this time
+blew strong from the E., we did not think it prudent to coast in our boats
+to the town, which is situated in the E. side of the island, but rowed
+round the north point of the harbour. We had proceeded about two miles
+along the shore, when, observing a road that led into a wood, we landed.
+Here I quitted Captain Gore, taking with me a midshipman and four armed
+sailors, and pursued the path which seemed to point directly across the
+island. We proceeded through a thick wood, up a steep hill, to the distance
+of a mile, when, after descending through a wood of the same extent, on the
+other side, we came out into a flat, open, sandy country, interspersed with
+cultivated spots of rice and tobacco, and groves of cabbage palm-trees and
+cocoa-nut trees. We here spied two huts, situated on the edge of the wood,
+to which we directed our course; and, before we came up to them, were
+descried by two men, who immediately ran away from us, notwithstanding all
+the peaceable and supplicating gestures we could devise.
+
+On reaching the huts, I ordered the party to stay without, lest the sight
+of so many armed men should terrify the inhabitants, whilst I entered and
+reconnoitred alone. I found, in one of the huts, an elderly man, who was in
+a great fright, and preparing to make off with the most valuable of his
+effects that he could carry. However, I was fortunate enough, in a very
+little time, so entirely to dispel his fears, that he came out, and called
+to the two men, who were running away, to return. The old man and I now
+soon came to a perfect understanding. A few signs, particularly that most
+significant one of holding out a handful of dollars, and then pointing to a
+herd of buffaloes, and the fowls that were running about the huts in great
+numbers, left him without any doubts as to the real objects of our visit.
+He pointed toward a place where the town stood, and made us comprehend,
+that, by going thither, all our wants would be supplied. By this time, the
+young men, who had fled, were returned; and the old man ordered one of them
+to conduct us to the town, as soon as an obstacle should be removed, of
+which we were not aware. On our first coming out of the wood, a herd of
+buffaloes, to the number of twenty at least, came running toward us,
+tossing up their heads, snuffing the air, and roaring in a hideous manner.
+They had followed us to the huts, and stood drawn up in a body, at a little
+distance; and the old man made us understand, that it would be exceedingly
+dangerous for us to move till they were driven into the woods; but so
+enraged were the animals grown at the sight of us, that this was not
+effected without a good deal of time and difficulty. The men not being able
+to accomplish it, we were surprised to see them, call to their assistance a
+few little boys, who soon drove them out of sight. Afterward, we had
+occasion to observe, that, in driving these animals, and securing them,
+which is done by putting a rope through a hole which is made in their
+nostrils, little boys were always employed, who could stroke and handle
+them with impunity, at times when the men durst not approach them. Having
+got rid of the buffaloes, we were conducted to the town, which was at a
+mile's distance; the road to it lying through a deep white sand. It is
+situated near the sea-side, at the bottom of a retired bay, which must
+afford a safe road-stead during the prevalence of the S.W. monsoons.
+
+This town consists of between twenty and thirty houses, built close
+together; besides six or seven others that are scattered about the beach.
+The roof, the two ends, and the side fronting the country, are neatly
+constructed of reeds; the opposite side, facing the sea, is entirely open;
+but, by means of a sort of bamboo screens, they can exclude or let in as
+much of the sun or air as they please. We observed, likewise, other large
+screens or partitions, for the purpose of dividing, as occasion required,
+the single room of which the house, properly speaking, consists, into
+separate apartments.
+
+We were conducted to the largest house in the town, belonging to their
+chief, or, as they called him, their captain. This house had a room at each
+end, separated by a partition of reeds from the middle space, which was
+open on both sides, and provided with partition screens like the others. It
+had, besides, a penthouse, projecting four or five feet beyond the roof,
+and running the whole length on each side. At each end of the middle room
+were hung some Chinese paintings, representing men and women in ludicrous
+attitudes. In this apartment we were civilly desired to seat ourselves on
+mats, and _betel_ was presented to us.
+
+By means of my money, and pointing at different objects in sight, I had no
+difficulty in making a man, who seemed to be the principal person of the
+company, comprehend the main business of our errand; and I as readily
+understood from him, that the chief, or captain, was absent, but would soon
+return; and that, without his consent, no purchases of any kind could be
+made. We availed ourselves of the opportunity which this circumstance
+afforded us, to walk about the town; and did not forget to search, though
+in vain, for the remains of a fort, which had been built by our countrymen
+near the spot we were now upon, in 17O2.[108]
+
+On returning to the captain's house, we were sorry to find that he was not
+yet arrived; and the more so, as the time was almost elapsed which Captain
+Gore had fixed for our return to the boat. The natives were desirous we
+should lengthen our stay; they even proposed our passing the night there,
+and offered to accommodate us in the best manner in their power. I had
+observed, when we were in the house before, and now remarked it the more,
+that the man I have mentioned above frequently retired into one of the end
+rooms, and staid there some little time, before he answered the questions
+that were put to him; which led me to suspect that the captain was all the
+time there, though, for reasons best known to himself, he did not choose to
+appear; and I was confirmed in this opinion, by being stopped as I was
+attempting to go into the room. At length, it clearly appeared that my
+suspicions were well founded; for, on our preparing to depart, the person
+who had so often passed in and out, came from the room, with a paper in his
+hand, and gave it to me to read; and I was not a little surprised to find
+in it a sort of a certificate, in French, as follows:
+
+
+PIERRE JOSEPH GEORGE, Evêque d'Adran, Vicaire Apost. de Cochin China, &c.
+&c.
+
+Le petit _Mandarin_, porteur de cet écrit, est véritablement Envoyé de la
+cour à Pulo Condore, pour y attendre et recevoir tout vaisseau European qui
+auroit sa destination d'approcher ici. Le Capitaine, en consequence,
+pourroit se fier ou pour conduire le vaisseau au port, ou pour faire passer
+les nouvelles qu'll pourroit croire nécessaire.
+
+PIERRE JOSEPH GEORGE,
+
+Evêque d'Adran.
+
+A SAI-GON, 10 d'Août, 1779.
+
+
+We returned the paper, with many protestations of our being the
+_Mandarin_'s good friends, begging he might be informed that we hoped he
+would do us the favour to visit the ships, that we might convince him of
+it. We now took our leave, well satisfied on the whole with what had
+passed, but full of conjectures about this extraordinary French paper.
+Three of the natives offered their services to accompany us back, which we
+readily accepted, and returned by the way we came. Captain Gore felt
+peculiar satisfaction at seeing us; for, as we had exceeded our time near
+an hour, he began to be alarmed for our safety, and was preparing to march
+after us. He and his party had, during our absence, been profitably
+employed, in loading the boat with the cabbage-palm, which abounds in this
+bay. Our guides were made exceedingly happy, on our presenting them with a
+dollar each for their trouble, and intrusting to their care a bottle of rum
+for the _Mandarin_. One of them chose to accompany us on board.
+
+At two in the afternoon we joined the ships, and several of our shooting
+parties returned about the same time from the woods, having had little
+success, though they saw a great variety of birds and animals, some of
+which will be hereafter noticed.
+
+At five, a _proa_, with six men, rowed up to the ship, from the upper end
+of the harbour, and a decent-looking personage introduced himself to
+Captain Gore with an ease and good breeding, which convinced us his time
+had been spent in other company than what this island afforded. He brought
+with him the French paper above transcribed, and said he was the _Mandarin_
+mentioned in it. He spoke a few Portuguese words; but, as none of us were
+acquainted with this language, we were obliged to have recourse to a black
+man on board, who could speak the Malay, which is the general language of
+these islanders, and was understood by the _Mandarin_. After a little
+previous conversation, he declared to us that he was a Christian, and had
+been baptised by the name of Luco; that he had been, sent hither in August
+last, from Sai-gon, the capital of Cochin China, and had since waited in
+expectation of some French ships, which he was to pilot to a safe port, not
+more than a day's sail hence, upon the coast of Cochin China. We acquainted
+him, that we were not French, but English, and asked him, whether he did
+not know that these two nations were now at war with one another. He made
+answer in the affirmative; but, at the same time, signified to us, that it
+was indifferent to him to what nation the ships he was instructed to wait
+for belonged, provided their object was to trade with the people of Cochin
+China. He here produced another paper, which he desired us to read. This
+was a letter sealed, and directed "To the captains of any European vessels
+that may touch at Condore." Although we apprehended that this letter was
+designed for French ships in particular, yet as the direction included all
+European captains, and as Luco was desirous of our perusing it, we broke
+the seal, and found it to be written by the bishop who wrote the
+certificate. Its contents were as follows: "That having reason to expect,
+by some late intelligence from Europe, that a vessel would soon come to
+Cochin China, he had, in consequence of this news, got the court to send a
+_Mandarin_ (the bearer) to Pulo Condore, to wait its arrival; that if the
+vessel should put in there, the commander might either send by the bearer
+an account to him of his arrival, or trust himself to the _Mandarin_, who
+would pilot him into a well-sheltered port in Cochin China, not more than a
+day's sail from Condore; that, should he choose to remain in Condore till
+the return of the messenger, proper interpreters would be sent back, and
+any other assistance, which a letter should point out, be furnished; that
+it was unnecessary to be more particular, of which the captain himself must
+be sensible." This letter had the same date as the certificate, and was
+returned to Luco again, without any copy being taken.
+
+From this letter, and the whole of Luco's conversation, there remained
+little doubt, that it was a French ship he was to expect; at the same time
+we found he would be glad not to lose his errand, and had no objection to
+become our pilot. We could not discover from the _Mandarin_, the exact
+object and business which the vessel he was waiting for intended to
+prosecute in Cochin China. It is true, that our interpreter, the black, was
+extremely dull and stupid, and I should therefore be sorry, with such
+imperfect means of information, to run the risk of misleading the reader by
+any conjectures of my own, respecting the object of Luco's visit to this
+island. I shall only add, that he told us the French ships might perhaps
+have put into Tirnon, and from thence sail to Cochin China; and as he had
+received no intelligence of them, he thought this most likely to have been
+the case.
+
+Captain Gore's enquiries were next directed to find out what supplies could
+be obtained from the island. Luco said, that he had two buffaloes of his
+own, which were at our service; and that there were plenty on the island,
+which might be purchased for four or five dollars a head; but finding that
+Captain Gore thought that sum exceedingly moderate, and would willingly
+give for them a much greater, the price was afterward raised upon us to
+seven and eight dollars.
+
+Early in the morning of the 23d, the launches of both ships were sent to
+the town, to fetch the buffaloes which we had given orders to be purchased;
+but they were obliged to wait till it was high-water, as they could at no
+other time get through the opening at the head of the harbour. On their
+arrival at the village, they found the surf breaking on the beach with such
+force, that it was with the utmost difficulty each launch brought a
+buffaloe on board in the evening, and the officers, who were sent on this
+service, gave it as their opinion, that between the violence of the surf,
+and the fierceness of the buffaloes, it would be extremely imprudent to
+attempt bringing any more off in this way. We had purchased eight, and were
+now at a loss in what manner to proceed to get them on board. We could kill
+no more than was just necessary for the consumption of one day, as in this
+climate meat will not keep till the next. After consulting with Luco, it
+was concluded, that the remainder should be driven through the wood, and
+over the hill down to the bay, where Captain Gore and I had landed the day
+before, which being sheltered from the wind, was more free from surf. This
+plan was accordingly put in execution; but the untractableness and
+prodigious strength of the buffaloes, rendered it a tedious and difficult
+operation. The method of conducting them was, by passing ropes through
+their nostrils, and round their horns; but having been once enraged at the
+sight of our men, they became so furious, that they sometimes broke the
+trees, to which we were often under the necessity of tying them; sometimes
+they tore asunder the cartilage of the nostril, through which the ropes
+ran, and got loose. On these occasions, all the exertions of our men to
+recover them would have been ineffectual, without the assistance of some
+young boys, whom these animals would permit to approach them, and by whose
+little managements their rage was soon appeased. And when, at length, they
+were got down to the beach, it was by their aid, in twisting ropes round
+their legs, in the manner they were directed, that we were enabled to throw
+them down, and by that means to get them into the boats. A circumstance,
+respecting these animals, which I thought no less singular than this
+gentleness toward, and, as it should seem, affection for little children,
+was, that they had not been twenty-four hours on board, before they became
+the tamest of all creatures. I kept two of them, a male and female, for a
+considerable time, which, became great favourites with the sailors, and,
+thinking that a breed of animals of such strength and size, some of them
+weighing, when dressed, seven hundred pounds weight, would be a valuable
+acquisition, I was inclined to have brought them with me to England; but my
+intention was frustrated by an incurable hurt that one of them received at
+sea.[109]
+
+It was not till the 28th, that the buffaloes were all got on board;
+however, there was no reason to regret the time taken up by this service,
+since, in the interim, two wells of excellent water had been discovered, of
+which, as also of wood, part of the ships' companies had been employed in
+laying in a good supply; so that a shorter stop would be necessary, for
+replenishing our stock of these articles in the Strait of Sunda. A party
+had likewise been occupied in drawing the seine, at the head of the
+harbour, where they took a great many good fish; and another party, in
+cutting down the cabbage palm, which was boiled and served out with the
+meat. Besides this, having been able to procure only a scanty supply of
+cordage at Macao, the repairing of our rigging was become an object of
+constant attention, and demanded all our spare time.
+
+Pulo-Condore is high and mountainous, and surrounded by several smaller
+islands, some of which are less than one, and others two miles distant. It
+takes its name from two Malay words, _Pulo_, signifying an island, and
+_Condore_, a calabash, of which it produces great quantities. It is of the
+form of a crescent, extending near eight miles from the southernmost point,
+in a N.E. direction; but its breadth nowhere exceeds two miles. From the
+westernmost extremity, the land trends to the S.E. for about four miles;
+and opposite to this part of the coast there is an island, called, by
+Monsieur D'Apres,[110] _Little Condore_, which runs two miles in the same
+direction. This position of the two islands affords a safe and commodious
+harbour, the entrance into which is from the N.W. The distance between the
+two opposite coasts is three quarters of a mile, exclusive of a border of
+coral rock, which runs down along each side, extending about one hundred
+yards from the shore. The anchorage is very good, from eleven to five
+fathoms water, but the bottom is so soft and clayey, that we found great
+difficulty in weighing our anchors. Toward the bottom of the harbour there
+is shallow water for about half a mile, beyond which the two islands
+approach so near each other, as to leave only a passage at high water for
+boats. The most convenient place for watering is at a beach on the eastern
+side, where there is a small stream which furnished us with fourteen or
+fifteen tons of water a day.
+
+This island, both with respect to animal and vegetable productions, is
+considerably improved since the time when Dampier visited it. Neither that
+writer, nor the compiler of the East India Directory, make mention of any
+other quadrupeds than hogs, which are said to be very scarce, lizards, and
+the guanoes; and the latter, on the authority of Monsieur Dedier, a French
+engineer, who surveyed the island about the year 1720, says, that none of
+the fruits and esculent plants, so common in the other parts of India, are
+to be found here, except water-melons, a few potatoes, small gourds,
+_chibbolds_, (a small species of onion,) and little black beans. At
+present, besides the buffaloes, of which we understood there were several
+large herds, we purchased from the natives some remarkably fine fat hogs,
+of the Chinese breed. They brought us three or four of a wild sort; and our
+sportsmen reported, that they frequently met with their tracks in the
+woods, which also abound with monkies and squirrels, but so shy, that it
+was difficult to shoot them. One species of the squirrel was of a beautiful
+shining black colour; and another species striped brown and white. This is
+called the flying-squirrel, from being provided with a thin membrane,
+resembling a bat's wing, extended on each side the belly, from the neck to
+the thighs; which, on stretching out their legs, spreads and enables them
+to fly from tree to tree, at a considerable distance. Lizards were in great
+abundance; but I do not know that any of us saw the guano, and another
+animal described by Dampier[111] as resembling the guano, only much larger.
+
+Amongst its vegetable improvements, I have already mentioned the fields of
+rice we passed through; and plantains, various kinds of pompions, cocoa-
+nuts, oranges, shaddocks, and pomegranates, were also met with; though,
+except the plantains and shaddocks, in no great abundance.
+
+It is probable, from what has been already said, relative to the Bishop of
+Adran, that the French have introduced these improvements into the island,
+for the purpose of making it a more convenient refreshing station for any
+of their ships that may be bound for Cambodia, or Cochin China. Should they
+have made, or intend to make, any settlement in those countries, it is
+certainly well situated for that purpose, or for annoying the trade of
+their enemies, in case of war.
+
+Our sportsmen were very unsuccessful in their pursuit of the feathered
+game, with which the woods are well stocked. One of our gentlemen had the
+good fortune to shoot a wild hen; and all the shooting parties agreed that
+they heard the crowing of the cocks on every side, which they described to
+be like that of our common cock, but shriller; that they saw several of
+them on the wing, but that they were exceedingly shy. The hen that was shot
+was of a speckled colour, and of the same shape, though not quite so large,
+as a full-grown pullet of this country. Monsieur Sonnerat has entered into
+a long dissertation, to prove that he was the first person who determined
+the country to which this most beautiful and useful bird belongs, and
+denies that Dampier met with it here.
+
+The land in the neighbourhood of the harbour is a continued high hill,
+richly adorned with a variety of fine tall trees, from the summit to the
+water's edge. Among others, we observed what Dampier calls the tar-
+tree;[112] but observed none that were tapped, in the manner he describes.
+
+The inhabitants, who are fugitives from Cambodia and Cochin China, are not
+numerous. They are of a short stature, and very swarthy, and of a weak and
+unhealthy aspect; but, as far as we could judge, of a gentle disposition.
+
+We remained here till the 28th of January; and, at taking leave of the
+_Mandarin_, Captain Gore, at his own request, gave him a letter of
+recommendation to the commanders of any other ships that might put in here;
+to which he added a handsome present. He likewise gave him a letter for the
+Bishop of Adran, together with a telescope, which he begged might be
+presented to him as a compliment for the services he had received, through
+his means, at Condore.
+
+
+The harbour at Pulo Condore is in latitude      8° 40' 00" N.
+
+Longitude, deduced from a great number
+of lunar observations                         105  18  46  E.
+
+Dip of the north pole of the magnetic
+needle                                          2   1
+
+Variation of the compass                           14      W.
+
+High water, at the full and change
+of the moon                                   4^h 16^m apparent time.
+
+
+From this time the water continued, for twelve hours, without any visible
+alteration, viz. till 16^h 15^m apparent time, when it began to ebb; and at
+22^h 15^m apparent time it was low water. The change, from ebbing to
+flowing, was very quick, or in less than 5^m. The water rose and fell seven
+feet four inches perpendicular; and every day the same whilst we continued
+there.
+
+
+[107] On this subject we are presented with a communication in the Biog.
+    Brit., made on the authority and from the materials of Sir Joseph
+    Banks. As that work is now probably in few hands, and as the
+    information itself is extremely interesting, it would be injustice to
+    the readers, in general, not to put them in possession of the facts of
+    the case. But the writer, not wishing to "extenuate or set down aught
+    in malice," prefers a fair copy of the entire passage, to any
+    imperfect, and perhaps scarcely unprejudiced abstract of its contents.
+
+    "Not long after Captain Cook's death, an event occurred in Europe,
+    which had a particular relation to the voyage of our Navigator, and
+    which was so honourable to himself, and to the great nation from whom
+    it proceeded, that it is no small pleasure to me to be able to lay the
+    transaction somewhat at large before my readers. What I refer to is,
+    the letter which was issued, on the 19th of March, 1779, by Monsieur
+    Sartine, Secretary of the Marine Department at Paris, and sent to all
+    the commanders of French ships. The rescript was as follows: 'Captain
+    Cook, who sailed from Plymouth in July, 1776, on board the Resolution,
+    in company with the Discovery, Captain Clerke, in order to make some
+    discoveries on the coasts, islands, and seas of Japan and California,
+    being on the point of returning to Europe; and such discoveries being
+    of general utility to all nations, it is the king's pleasure, that
+    Captain Cook shall be treated as a commander of a neutral and allied
+    power, and that all captains of armed vessels, &c. who may meet that
+    famous Navigator, shall make him acquainted with the king's orders on
+    this behalf; but, at the same time, let him know, that, on his part,
+    he must refrain from all hostilities.' By the Marquis of Condorcet we
+    are informed, that this measure originated in the liberal and
+    enlightened mind of that excellent citizen and statesman, Monsieur
+    Turgot. 'When war,' says the Marquis, 'was declared between France and
+    England, M. Turgot saw how honourable it would be to the French
+    nation, that the vessel of Captain Cook should be treated with respect
+    at sea. He composed a memorial, in which he proved, that honour,
+    reason, and even interest, dictated this act of respect for humanity;
+    and it was in consequence of this memorial, the author of which was
+    unknown during his life, that an order was given not to treat as an
+    enemy, the common benefactor of every European nation.' Whilst great
+    praise is due to Monsieur Turgot, for having suggested the adoption of
+    a measure which hath contributed so much to the reputation of the
+    French government, it must not be forgotten, that the first thought of
+    such a plan of conduct was probably owing to Dr Benjamin Franklin.
+    Thus much, at least, is certain, that this eminent philosopher, when
+    Embassador at Paris from the United States of America, preceded the
+    court of France in issuing a similar requisition; a copy of which
+    cannot fail of being acceptable to the reader.
+
+    _'To all Captains and Commanders of Armed Ships, acting by Commission
+    from the Congress of the United States of America, now in war with
+    Great Britain_.
+
+    'Gentlemen,
+
+    'A ship having been fitted out from England before the commencement of
+    this war, to make discoveries of new countries in unknown seas, under
+    the conduct of that most celebrated Navigator and Discoverer, Captain
+    Cook; an undertaking truly laudable in itself, as the increase of
+    geographical knowledge facilitates the communication between distant
+    nations, in the exchange of useful products and manufactures, and the
+    extension of arts, whereby the common enjoyments of human life are
+    multiplied and augmented, and science of other kinds increased, to the
+    benefit of mankind in general.--This is therefore most earnestly to
+    recommend to every one of you, that in case the said ship, which is
+    now expected to be soon in the European seas on her return, should
+    happen to fall into your hands, you should not consider her as an
+    enemy, nor suffer any plunder to be made of the effects contained in
+    her, nor obstruct her immediate return to England, by detaining her,
+    or sending her into any other part of Europe, or to America; but that
+    you would treat the said Captain Cook and his people with all civility
+    and kindness, affording them, as common friends to mankind, all the
+    assistance in your power, which they may happen to stand in need of.
+    In so doing, you will not only gratify the generosity of your own
+    dispositions, but there is no doubt of your obtaining the approbation
+    of the Congress, and your other American owners.
+
+    I have the honour to be,
+
+    Gentlemen,
+
+    Your most obedient humble servant,
+
+    B. FRANKLIN,
+
+    Minister Plenipotentiary from the Congress of the United States, at
+    the Court of France.
+
+    _At Passy, near Paris, this 10th day of March, 1779_.'
+
+    "It is observable, that as Dr Franklin acted on his own authority, he
+    could only _earnestly recommend_ to the commanders of American armed
+    vessels not to consider Captain Cook as an enemy; and it is somewhat
+    remarkable, that he mentions no more than one ship; Captain Clerke not
+    being noticed in the requisition. In the confidence which the Doctor
+    expressed, with respect to the approbation of Congress, he happened to
+    be mistaken. As the members of that assembly, at least with regard to
+    the greater part of them, were not possessed of minds equally
+    enlightened with that of their embassador, he was not supported by his
+    masters in this noble act of humanity, of love to science, and of
+    liberal policy. The orders he had given were instantly reversed; and
+    it was directed by Congress, that especial care should be taken to
+    seize Captain Cook, if an opportunity of doing it occurred. All this
+    proceeded from a false notion, that it would be injurious to the
+    United States for the English to obtain a knowledge of the opposite
+    coast of America. The conduct of the court of Spain was regulated by
+    similar principles of jealousy. It was apprehended by that court, that
+    there was reason to be cautious of granting, too easily, an indulgence
+    to Captain Cook; since it was not certain what mischiefs might ensue
+    to the Spaniards from a northern passage to their American dominions.
+    M. de Belluga, a Spanish gentleman and officer, of a liberal and a
+    philosophical turn of mind, and who was a member of the Royal Society
+    of London, endeavoured to prevail upon the count of Florida Blanca,
+    and M. d'Almodavar, to grant an order of protection to the Resolution
+    and Discovery; and he flattered himself, that the ministers of the
+    king of Spain would be prevailed upon to prefer the cause of science
+    to the partial views of interest; but the Spanish government was not
+    capable of rising to so enlarged and magnanimous a plan of policy. To
+    the French nation alone, therefore, was reserved the honour of setting
+    an example of wisdom and humanity, which, I trust, will not,
+    hereafter, be so uncommon in the history of mankind."
+
+    The illiberality of his contemporaries, it may be remarked, is not one
+    of the least evils with which a mind advanced beyond their standard,
+    has to contend; but he has always one consolation in which he may take
+    refuge--the time will come when the gratitude of science and humanity
+    will vindicate his views, though charity, perhaps, forbid their
+    jealousy and prejudices to be remembered as a contrast. Nations never
+    more injure themselves in opinion, which is so closely connected with
+    their best interests, than when, from narrow policy and unfounded
+    suspicions, they obstruct, or attempt to obstruct, the prosecution of
+    undertakings which have the welfare of our common nature for their
+    object. The best apology which it is possible to make for them in such
+    cases, is, that they are too ignorant to comprehend how the general
+    improvement of human concerns implies the enlargement of their own
+    advantages.--E.
+
+    [108] The English settled here in the year 17O2, when the factory of
+    Chusan, on the coast of China, was broken up, and brought with them
+    some Macassar soldiers, who were hired to assist in building a fort;
+    but the president not fulfilling his engagement with them, they
+    watched an opportunity, and one night murdered all the English in the
+    fort. Those without the fort hearing a noise, took the alarm, and ran
+    to their boats, very narrowly escaping with their lives, but not
+    without much fatigue, hunger, and thirst, to the Johore dominions,
+    where they were treated with great humanity. Some of these afterward
+    went to form a settlement at Benjar-Massean, on the island of Borneo.-
+    -_East India Directory_, p. 36.
+
+[109] Mr Bingley informs us, that buffaloes have been introduced into some
+    of the countries of Europe, where they are now perfectly naturalized.
+    Thus in Italy they are said to constitute an essential part both of
+    the riches and the food of the poor. So far as the writer knows, they
+    have not yet been brought into England, and, indeed, notwithstanding
+    the high opinion entertained of their good qualities, he thinks it
+    doubtful if they would prove any acquisition to it.--E.
+
+[110] Neptune Oriental.
+
+[111] Vid. Dampier, vol. i. p. 392.
+
+[112] Dampier, vol. i. p. 90.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION XI.
+
+
+Departure from Pulo Condore.--Passs the Straits of Banca.--View of the
+Island of Sumatra.--Straits of Sunda.--Occurrences there.--Description of
+the Island of Cracatoa.--Prince's Island.--Effects of the Climate of
+Java.--Run to the Cape of Good Hope,--Transactions there.--Description of
+False Bay.--Passage to the Orkneys.--General Reflections.
+
+
+On the 28th day of January, 1780, we unmoored; and, as soon as we were
+clear of the harbour, steered S.S.W. for Pulo Timoan. On the 30th, at noon,
+the latitude by observation, being 5° 0' N., and longitude 104° 45' E., we
+altered our course to S. 3/4 W., having a moderate breeze from the N.E.,
+accompanied by fair weather. At two in the morning of the 31st, we had
+soundings of forty-five fathoms, over a bottom of fine white sand; at which
+time our latitude was 4° 4' N., longitude 104° 29' E., and the variation of
+the compass 0° 31' E.
+
+At one in the afternoon, we saw Pulo Timoan; and, at three, it bore S.S.W.
+3/4 W., distant ten miles. This island is high and woody, and has several
+small ones lying off to the westward. At five, Pulo Puissang was seen
+bearing S. by E. 3/4 E.; and, at nine, the weather being thick and hazy,
+and having out-run our reckoning from the effect of some current, we were
+close upon Pulo Aor, in latitude 2° 46' N., longitude 104° 37' E., before
+we were well aware of it, which obliged us to haul the wind to the E.S.E.
+We kept this course till midnight, and then bore away S.S.E. for the Strait
+of Banca.
+
+On the 1st of February, at noon, our latitude by observation was 1° 20' N.,
+and the longitude, deduced from a great number of lunar observations taken
+in the course of the preceding twelve hours, 105° E. At the same time, the
+longitude, by Mr Bayley's time-keeper corrected, was 105° 15' E. We now
+steered S. by E.; and, at sun-set, having fine clear weather, saw Pulo
+Panjung; the body of the island bearing W.N.W., and the small islands,
+lying on the S.E. of it, W. 1/2 S., seven leagues distant. Our latitude, at
+this time, was 0° 53' N.
+
+On the 2d, at eight in the morning, we tried for soundings, continuing to
+do the same every hour, till we passed the Strait of Sunda, and found the
+bottom with twenty-three fathoms of line. At noon, being in latitude, by
+observation, 0° 22' S., longitude 105° 14' E., and our soundings twenty
+fathoms, we came in sight of the little islands called Dominis, which lie
+off the eastern part of Lingen; and which bore from N. 62° W. to N. 80° W.,
+five leagues distant. At this time we passed a great deal of wood drifting
+on the sea; and, at one o'clock, we saw Pulo Taya, bearing S.W. by W.,
+distant seven leagues. It is a small high island, with two round peaks, and
+two detached rocks lying off to the northward. When abreast of this island,
+we had soundings of fifteen fathoms. During this and the preceding day, we
+saw great quantities of a reddish-coloured scum or spawn, floating on the
+water, in a southerly direction.
+
+At day-light, on the 3d, we came in sight of the Three Islands; and, soon
+after, of Monopin Hill, on the island of Banca. At noon, this hill, which
+forms the N.E. point of the entrance of the Straits, bore S.E. 1/2 S.
+distant six leagues; our latitude, by observation, being 1° 48' S., and
+longitude 105° 3' E., the soundings seventeen fathoms, and no perceivable
+variation in the compass.
+
+Having got to the westward of the shoal, called Frederick Endric, at half-
+past two we entered the Straits, and bore away to the southward; and, in
+the afternoon, Monopin Hill bearing due E., we determined its latitude to
+be 2° 3' S., the same as in Mons. D'Apres' map, and its longitude 105° 18'
+E. At nine, a boat came off from the Banca shore, and having rowed round
+the ships, went away again. We hailed her in the Malaye tongue to come on
+board, but received no answer. At midnight, finding a strong tide against
+us, we anchored in twelve fathoms, Monopin Hill bearing N. 29° W.
+
+On the 4th, in the morning, after experiencing some difficulty in weighing
+our anchors, owing to the stiff tenacious quality of the ground, we
+proceeded with the tide down the Straits; the little wind we had from the
+northward dying away as the day advanced. At noon, there being a perfect
+calm, and the tide making against us, we dropt our anchor in thirteen
+fathoms water, about three miles from what is called the Third Point, on
+the Sumatra shore, Monopin Hill bearing N. 54° W. The latitude, by
+observation, was 2° 22' S., longitude 105° 38' E. At three in the afternoon
+we weighed, and stood on through the Straits with a light breeze; and at
+eight, were abreast of the Second Point, and passed it within two miles, in
+seventeen fathoms water; a sufficient proof that this Point may be bordered
+upon with safety. At midnight, we again came to anchor, on account of the
+tide, in thirteen fathoms, Mount Permissang, on the island of Banca,
+bearing N. 7° E, and the First Point S. 54° E., distant about three
+leagues.
+
+In the morning of the 5th, we weighed, and kept on to the S E; and at ten,
+passed a small shoal, lying in a line with Lusepara and the First Point, at
+the distance of five miles from the latter. At noon, the island of Lusepara
+bearing S., 57° 1/2 E., four miles distant, we determined its latitude to
+be 3° 10' 1/2 S., and its longitude 106" 15' E. The difference of longitude
+between the island Lusepara, which lies in the S. entrance of the Strait of
+Banca and Monopin Hill, which forms one side of the entrance from the N.,
+we found to be 55', which is only two miles less than what is given in
+D'Apres' chart.
+
+In passing this Strait, the coast of Sumatra may be approached somewhat
+closer than that of Banca. At the distance of two or three miles from the
+shore, there are ten, eleven, twelve, or thirteen fathoms, free from rocks
+or shoals; however the lead is the surest guide. The country is covered
+with wood down to the water's edge, and the shores are so low, that the sea
+overflows the land, and washes the trunks of the trees. To this flat and
+marshy situation of the shore, we may attribute those thick fogs and
+vapours, which we perceived every morning, not without dread and horror,
+hanging over the island, till they were dispersed by the rays of the sun.
+The shores of Banca are much bolder, and the country inland rises to a
+moderate height, and appears to be well wooded throughout. We often saw
+fires on this island during the night-time; but none on the opposite shore.
+The tide runs through the Strait at the rate of between two and three knots
+an hour.
+
+In the morning of the 6th, we passed to the westward of Lusepara, at the
+distance of four or five miles; generally carrying soundings of five or six
+fathoms water, and never less than four. We afterward steered S. by E.; and
+having brought Lusepara to bear due N., and deepened our water to seven
+fathoms, we altered our course to S. by W., keeping the lead going, and
+hauling out a little, whenever we shoaled our water. The soundings on the
+Sumatra side we still found to be regular, and gradually shoaling as we
+approached the shore. At five in the afternoon we saw the Two Sisters,
+bearing S. by W. 1/2 W.; and at seven, we came to an anchor in ten fathoms,
+about eight miles to the N. of the islands. The weather was close and
+sultry, with, light winds, generally from the N.W.; but sometimes varying
+round as far as the N.E.; and, during the night, we observed much lightning
+over Sumatra.
+
+We weighed the next morning at five, and at eight were close in with the
+Sisters. These are two very small islands, well covered with wood, lying in
+latitude 5° 0' 1/2 S., longitude 106° 12' E., nearly N. and S. from each
+other, and surrounded by a reef of coral rocks; the whole circumference of
+which is about four or five miles. At noon we got sight of the island of
+Java to the southward; the N.W. extremity of which (Cape St Nicholas) bore
+S.; North Island on Sumatra shore, S., 27° W., and the Sisters N., 27° E.,
+distant four leagues; our latitude was 5° 21' S., longitude 105° 57' E.
+
+At four in the afternoon we saw two sail in the Strait of Sunda; one lying
+at anchor near the Mid-channel Island, the other nearer the Java shore. Not
+knowing to what nation they might belong, we cleared our ships for action;
+and at six came to an anchor in twenty-five fathoms, four miles E. by S.
+from North Island. Here we lay all night, and had very heavy thunder and
+lightning to the N.W.; from which quarter the wind blew in light breezes,
+accompanied with hard rain.
+
+At eight o'clock the next morning we weighed, and proceeded through the
+Strait, the tide setting to the southward, as it had done all night; but
+about ten, the breeze failing, we came to again in thirty-five fathoms; a
+high, island, or rather rock, called the Grand Toque, bearing S. by E. We
+were at this time not more than two miles from the ships, which now
+hoisting Dutch colours, Captain Gore sent a boat on board for intelligence.
+The rain still continued, with thunder and lightning.
+
+Early in the afternoon the boat returned, with an account that the large
+ship was a Dutch East Indiaman, bound for Europe; and the other a packet
+from Batavia, with orders for the several ships lying in the Strait. It is
+the custom for the Dutch ships, as soon as their lading is nearly
+completed, to leave Batavia on account of its extreme unwholesomeness, and
+proceed to some of the more healthy islands in the Strait, where they wait
+for the remainder of their cargo and their dispatches. Notwithstanding this
+precaution, the Indiaman had lost, since her departure from Batavia, four
+men, and had as many more whose recovery was despaired of. She had lain
+here a fortnight, and was now about to proceed to Cracatoa, having just
+received final orders by the packet.
+
+At seven in the morning of the 9th we weighed, and stood on through the
+Strait to the S.W., keeping pretty close in with the islands on the Sumatra
+shore, in order to avoid a rock near Mid-channel Island, which lay on our
+left. At half after ten, I received orders from Captain Gore to make sail
+toward a Dutch ship, which now hove in sight to the southward, and which we
+supposed to be from Europe; and, according to the nature of the
+intelligence we could procure from her, either to join him at Cracatoa,
+where he intended to stop, for the purpose of supplying the ships with
+arrack, or to proceed to the S.E. end of Prince's Island, and there take in
+our water and wait for him.
+
+I accordingly bore down toward the Dutch ship, which, soon after, came to
+an anchor to the eastward; when the wind slackening, and the current still
+setting very strong through the Strait to the S.W., we found it impossible
+to fetch her, and having therefore got as near her as the tide would
+permit, we also dropt anchor. I immediately dispatched Mr Williamson in the
+cutter with orders to get on board her, if possible; but as she lay near a
+mile off, and, the tide ran with great rapidity, we soon perceived that the
+boat was dropping fast astern. We therefore made the signal to return, and
+immediately began to veer away the cable, and sent out a buoy astern, in
+order to assist him in getting on board again. Our poverty, in the article
+of cordage, was here very conspicuous; for we had not a single coil of rope
+in the store-room to fix the buoy, but were obliged to set about unreeving
+the studding-sail geer, the topsail-halliards and tackle-falls for that
+purpose; and the boat was at this time driving to the southward so fast,
+that it was not before we had veered away two cables, and almost all our
+running-rigging, that she could fetch the buoy.
+
+I was under the necessity of waiting till the strength of the tide should
+abate, which did not happen till the next morning, when Mr Williamson got
+on board the ship, and learnt that she had been seven months from Europe,
+and three from the Cape of Good Hope; that before she sailed, France and
+Spain had declared war against Great Britain; and that she left Sir Edward
+Hughes, with a squadron of men of war, and a fleet of East India ships, at
+the Cape. Mr Williamson having at the same time been informed, that the
+water at Cracatoa was very good, and always preferred by the Dutch ships to
+that of Prince's Island, I resolved to rejoin the Resolution at the former
+place; and a fair breeze springing up, we weighed and stood over toward the
+island, where we soon after saw her at anchor; but the wind falling, and
+the tide setting strong against us, I was obliged to drop anchor, at the
+distance of about five miles from the Resolution, and immediately sent a
+boat on board, to acquaint Captain Gore with the intelligence we had
+received.
+
+As soon as the Resolution saw us preparing to come to, she fired her guns,
+and hoisted an English jack at the ensign staff, the signal at sea to lead
+a-head. This we afterward understood was intended to prevent our anchoring,
+on account of the foul ground, which the maps she had on board placed here.
+However, as we found none, having a muddy bottom, and good holding ground,
+in sixty fathoms water, we kept fast till the return of the boat, which
+brought orders to proceed the next morning to Prince's Island. We were at
+this time two miles distant from the shore; the Peak of Cracatoa bore N.W.
+by N.; Bantam Point E.N.E. 1/2 E.; Prince's Island S.W. by W.
+
+The island of Cracatoa is the southernmost of a group situated in the
+entrance of the Strait of Sunda. It has a high peaked hill on the S.
+end,[113] which lies in the latitude 6° 9' S., and longitude 105° 15' E.;
+the whole circuit of the island is not more than three leagues. Off the
+N.E. end lies a small island, which forms the road where the Resolution
+anchored; and within a reef that runs off the S. end of the latter, there
+is good shelter against all northerly winds, with eighteen fathoms water
+near the reef, and twenty-seven in the mid-channel. To the N.W. there is a
+narrow pass for boats between the two islands.
+
+The shore, which forms the western side of the road, is in a N.W.
+direction, and has a bank of coral stretching into the sea, about one-third
+of a cable's length, which makes the landing difficult for boats, except at
+high water; but the anchoring-ground is very good, and free from rocks. The
+place where the Resolution watered is a small spring, situated abreast of
+the S. end of the small island, at a short distance from the water-side. A
+little to the southward there is a very hot spring, which is used by the
+natives as a bath. Whilst we were lying off the S. end of this island, we
+sent a boat with the master, on shore, to look for water; but, after having
+landed with some difficulty, he returned unsuccessful.
+
+Cracatoa is esteemed very healthy, in comparison of the neighbouring
+countries. It consists of high land, rising gradually on all sides from the
+sea; and the whole is covered with trees, except a few spots which the
+natives have cleared for rice-fields. The number of people on the island is
+very inconsiderable. Their chief, as are those of all the other islands in
+the Strait, is subject to the king of Bantam. The coral reefs afford plenty
+of small turtles, but other refreshments are very scarce, and sold at an
+enormous price.
+
+
+Latitude of the road where the Resolution
+  anchored                                8° 6' south.
+Longitude, by Mr Bayley's timekeeper    104 48  east.
+Ditto,  by observation                  105 36  east.
+Dip of the south end of the magnetic
+  needle                                 26  3
+Variation of the compass                  1  0  west.
+
+
+On the full and change days, it is high-water at 7h in the morning. The
+water rises three feet two inches perpendicular.
+
+At eight o'clock in the evening, it began to blow afresh from the westward,
+with violent thunder, lightning, and rain; and at three the next morning,
+we weighed and stood over for Prince's Island, but the westerly wind dying
+away, was succeeded by a breeze from the S.E., and at the same time a
+strong tide setting to the S.W., prevented our fetching the island, and
+obliged us, at two in the afternoon, to drop anchor in sixty-five fathoms,
+over a muddy bottom, at three leagues distance from it; the high hill
+bearing S.W. by S., and the peak on Cracatoa N. by E. We had light airs and
+calms till six next morning, when we weighed and made sail, having, in our
+endeavours to heave the anchor out of the ground, twice broken the old
+messenger, and afterwards a new one, cut out of our best hawser. This,
+however, was entirely owing to the wretched state of our cordage; as the
+strain was not very considerable, and we had besides assisted the cable in
+coming in, by clapping the cat-tackle on it. The wind continuing fair, at
+noon we came to an anchor off the S.E. end of Prince's Island, in twenty-
+six fathoms, over a sandy bottom; the east end of the island bearing
+N.N.E., the southernmost point in sight S.W. by S., the high peak N.W. 1/2
+W., distant from the nearest shore half a mile.
+
+As soon as we had come to anchor, Lieutenant Lannyon, who had been here
+before with Captain Cook, in the year 1770, was sent, along with the
+master, to look for the watering-place. The brook from which, according to
+the best of his recollection, the Endeavour had been supplied, was found
+quite salt. Further inland, they saw a dry bed, where the water seemed to
+have lodged in rainy seasons; and, about a cable's length below, another
+run, supplied from an extensive pool, the bottom of which, as well, as the
+surface, was covered with dead leaves. This, though a little brackish,
+being much preferable to the other, we began watering here early the next
+morning, and finished the same day.
+
+The natives, who came to us soon after we anchored, brought a plentiful
+supply of large fowls, and some turtles; but the last were, for the most
+part, very small. In the course of the night we had heavy rain; and on the
+14th, at daylight, we saw the Resolution to the northward, standing toward
+the island; and at two in the afternoon, she dropped anchor close to us. In
+the course of the day we heeled the ship, and scrubbed and hogged her
+bottom, which was very foul; and got ready for sea.
+
+The next day, Captain Gore not having completed his stock of water at
+Cracatoa, sent his men on shore, who now found the brook that was first
+mentioned rendered perfectly sweet by the rain, and flowing in great
+abundance. This being too valuable a treasure to be neglected, I gave
+orders, that the casks we had filled before should be started, and
+replenished with the fresh water, which was accordingly done before noon
+the next day; and in the evening we cleared the decks, and both ships were
+ready for sea.
+
+In the forenoon of the 18th we had heavy rains and variable winds, which
+prevented our getting under way till two in the afternoon, when a light
+wind sprung up from the northward; but this soon after leaving us, we were
+obliged to drop our anchor again, at eight o'clock that night, in fifty
+fathoms water, and wait till the same hour the next morning. At that time,
+being favoured by a breeze from the N.W., we broke ground, to our
+inexpressible satisfaction, for the last time in the Strait of Sunda, and
+the next day had entirely lost sight of Prince's Island,
+
+This island having been already described by Captain Cook, in the history
+of a former voyage, I shall only add, that we were exceedingly struck with
+the great general resemblance of the natives, both in figure, colour,
+manners, and even language, to the nations we had been so much conversant
+with in the South Seas. The effects of the Javanese climate, and I did not
+escape without my full share of it, made me incapable of pursuing the
+comparison so minutely as I could have wished.
+
+The country abounds with wood to such a degree, that, notwithstanding the
+quantity cut down every year by the ships which put into the road, there is
+no appearance of its diminution. We were well supplied with small turtle,
+and fowls of a moderate size; the last were sold at the rate of ten for a
+Spanish dollar. The natives also brought us many hog-deer, and a prodigious
+number of monkeys, to our great annoyance, as most of our sailors provided
+themselves with one, if not two, of these troublesome animals.
+
+As we should have met with some difficulty in finding the watering-place,
+if Mr Lannyon had not been with us, it may be worth while, for the use of
+future navigators, to describe its situation more particularly. The peaked
+hill on the island bears from it N.W. by N.; a remarkable tree, growing
+upon a coral reef, and quite detached from the neighbouring shrubs, stands
+just to the northward; and close by it there is a small plot of reedy
+grass, the only piece of the kind that can be seen hereabout. These marks
+will shew the place where the pool empties itself into the sea; but the
+water here is generally salt, as well as that which is in the pool. The
+casks must therefore be filled about fifty yards higher up; where, in dry
+seasons, the fresh water that comes down from the hills is lost among the
+leaves, and must be searched for by clearing them away.
+
+
+The latitude of the anchoring-place
+  at Prince's Island was               6° 36' 15" south.
+Longitude                            105  17  30  east.
+Dip of the south pole of the magnetic
+  needle                              28  15   0
+Variation of the compass               0  54   0  west.
+Mean of the thermometer               83  1/2
+
+
+From the time of our entering the Strait of Banca, we began to experience
+the powerful effects of this pestilential climate. Two of our people fell
+dangerously ill of malignant putrid fevers; which, however, we prevented
+from spreading, by putting the patients apart from the rest in the most
+airy births. Many were attacked with teazing coughs; others complained of
+violent pains in the head; and even the healthiest among us felt a
+sensation of suffocating heat, attended by an insufferable languor, and a
+total loss of appetite. But though our situation was for a time thus uneasy
+and alarming, we had at last the singular satisfaction of escaping from
+these fatal seas, without the loss of a single life; A circumstance which
+was probably owing in part to the vigorous health of the crews, when we
+first arrived here, as well as to the strict attention, now become habitual
+in our men, to the salutary regulations introduced amongst us by Captain
+Cook.
+
+On our leaving Prince's Island, and during the whole time of our run from
+thence to the Cape of Good Hope, the crew of the Resolution was in a much
+more sickly state than that of the Discovery; for though many of us
+continued for some time complaining of the effects of the noxious climate
+we had left, yet happily we all recovered from them. Of the two who had
+been ill of fevers, one, after being seized with violent convulsions, on
+the 12th of February, which made us despair of his life, was relieved by
+the application of blisters, and was soon after out of danger. The other
+recovered, but more slowly. On board the Resolution, besides the obstinate
+coughs and fevers under which they very generally laboured, a great many
+were afflicted with fluxes, the number of whom, contrary to our
+expectations, continued increasmg till our arrival at the Cape.
+
+Captain Gore attributed this difference in part, and probably with some
+reason, to the Discovery having her fire-place between decks; the heat and
+smoke of which, he conceived, might help to mitigate the bad effects of the
+damp night air. But I am rather inclined to believe, that we escaped the
+flux by the precautions that were taken to prevent our catching it from
+others. For if some kinds of fluxes be, as I apprehend there is no doubt
+they are, contagious, it is not improbable, that the Resolution caught this
+disorder from the Dutch ships at Cracatoa. In order to avoid this danger,
+when Mr Williamson was sent to the Indiaman in the entrance of the Strait
+of Sunda, he had the strictest orders not to suffer any of our people, on
+any account whatever, to go on board; and whenever we had afterward
+occasion to have any communication with the Resolution, the same caution
+was constantly observed.
+
+We were no sooner clear of Prince's Island, than we had a gentle breeze
+from the W.N.W.; but this did not last long; for the following day the wind
+became again variable, and continued so till the noon of the 25th, when it
+grew squally, and blew fresh from the north.
+
+On the 22d at noon, being in latitude 10° 28' S., and longitude 104° 14',
+we saw great quantities of boobies, and other fowls, that seldom go far
+from land; from which we conjectured, that we were near some small unknown
+island.
+
+In the evening of the 25th, the wind changed suddenly to the southward,
+accompanied with heavy rains, and began to blow with great violence. During
+the night, almost every sail we had bent gave way, and most of them were
+split to rags; our rigging also suffered materially, and we were, the next
+day, obliged to bend our last suit of sails, and to knot and splice the
+rigging, our cordage being all expended. This sudden storm, we attributed
+to the change from the monsoon to the regular trade-wind; our latitude was
+about 13° 10' S., and we had made by our reckoning about 4-1/2° of
+longitude west from Java head.
+
+From the 26th of this month to the 28th of March, we had a regular trade-
+wind from the S.E. to E. by S., with fine weather; and being in an old
+beaten track, met no occurrence that deserved the smallest notice.
+
+In the morning of the 28th of March, being in latitude 31° 42' S., and
+longitude 35° 26' E., the trade-wind left us in a violent thunder-storm.
+From this time to the 3d of April, when our latitude was 35° 1' S., and
+longitude 26° 3' E., the winds were moderate, and generally from the south
+quarter. A fresh breeze then sprung up from the eastward, which continued
+till the afternoon of the 4th; after which we had a calm that lasted the
+two following days.
+
+It had hitherto been Captain Gore's intention to proceed directly to St
+Helena, without stopping at the Cape; but the rudder of the Resolution
+having been, for some time, complaining, and, on being examined, reported
+to be in a dangerous state, he resolved to steer immediately for the Cape,
+as the most eligible place, both for the recovery of his sick, and for
+procuring a new main-piece to the rudder.
+
+From the 21st of March, when we were in latitude 27° 22' S., longitude 52°
+25' E., to the 5th of April, when we had got into latitude 36° 12' S.,
+longitude 22° 7' E., we were strongly affected by the currents, which set
+to the S.S.W., and S.W. by W., sometimes at the rate of eighty knots a day.
+On the 6th, having got under the lee of the African coast, we lost them
+entirely.
+
+In the morning of the 6th, a sail was seen to the S.W. standing toward us;
+and, as the wind soon after rose from the same quarter, we cleared our
+ships for action. We now discovered, from the mast-head, five sail more on
+our lee-bow, standing to the eastward; but the weather coming on hazy, we
+lost sight of them all in an hour's time. Our latitude at noon was 35° 49'
+S., longitude 21° 32' E. At seven o'clock the next morning (the 7th), we
+made the land to the northward at a considerable distance.
+
+On the 8th, the weather was squally, and blew fresh from the N.W.; the
+following day it settled to the W., and we passed pretty close to the sail
+seen on the 6th, but did not hail her. She was clumsy in figure, and, to
+appearance, unskilfully managed; yet she outsailed us exceedingly. The
+colours which she hoisted were different from any we had seen; some
+supposed them to be Portugueze, others Imperial.
+
+At day-light, the next morning, the land again appeared to the N.N.W.; and
+in the forenoon, a snow was seen bearing down to us, which proved to be an
+English East India packet, that had left Table Bay three days before, and
+was cruising with orders for the China fleet, and other India ships. She
+told us, that, about three weeks before, Mons. Trongoller's squadron,
+consisting of six ships, had sailed from the Cape, and was gone to cruise
+off St Helena, for our East India fleet. This intelligence made us
+conjecture, that the five sail we had seen standing to the eastward must
+have been the French squadron, who, in that case, had given over their
+cruise, and were probably proceeding to the Mauritius. Having informed the
+packet of our conjectures, and also of the time we understood the China
+ships were to sail from Canton, we left them, and proceeded toward the
+Cape.
+
+In the evening of the 10th, the Gunner's Quoin bore N. by E., and False
+Cape, E.N.E.; but the wind being at S.W., and variable, prevented our
+getting into False Bay, till the evening of the 12th, when we dropt anchor
+abreast of Simon's Bay. We found a strong current setting to the westward,
+round the Cape, which, for some time, we could but just stem, with a breeze
+that would have carried us four knots an hour. The next morning we stood
+into Simon's Bay; and at eight came to anchor, and moored a cable each way;
+the best bower to the E.S.E., and small bower, W.N.W.; the S.E. point of
+the bay bearing S. by E., Table Mountain, N.E. 1/2 N.; distant from the
+nearest shore one-third of a mile. We found lying here, the Nassau and
+Southampton East-Indiamen, waiting for convoy for Europe. The Resolution
+saluted the fort with eleven guns, and the same number was returned.
+
+Mr Brandt, the governor of this place, came to visit us, as soon as we had
+anchored. This gentleman had conceived a great affection for Captain Cook,
+who had been his constant guest, the many times he had visited the Cape;
+and though he had received the news of his melancholy fate some time
+before, he was exceedingly affected at the sight of our ships returning
+without their old commander. He appeared much surprised to see our crew in
+so stout and healthy a condition, as the Dutch ship that had left Macao, on
+our arrival there, and had touched at the Cape some time before, reported,
+that we were in a most wretched state, having only fourteen hands left on
+board the Resolution, and seven on board the Discovery. It is not easy to
+conceive the motive these people could have had for propagating so wanton
+and malicious a falsehood.
+
+On the 15th, I accompanied Captain Gore to Cape Town; and, the next
+morning, we waited on Baron Plettenberg, the governor, by whom we were
+received with every possible attention and civility. He had also conceived
+a great personal affection for Captain Cook, as well as the highest
+admiration of his character, and heard the recital of his misfortune, with
+many expressions of unaffected sorrow. In one of the principal apartments
+of the governor's house, he shewed us two pictures, of Van Trump and de
+Ruyter, with a vacant space left between them, which he said he meant to
+fill up with the portrait of Captain Cook; and, for that purpose, he
+requested our assistance when we should arrive in England, in purchasing
+one for him, at any price.
+
+We were afterward informed by the governor, that all the powers at this
+time at war with England had given orders to their cruisers to let us pass
+unmolested. This, as far as related to the French, we had sufficient reason
+to think true; as Mr Brandt had already delivered to Captain Gore, a letter
+from Mr Stephens, inclosing a copy of Mons. de Sartine's orders, taken on
+board the Licorne. With respect to the Americans, the matter still rested
+on report; but Baron Plettenberg assured us, that he had been expressly
+told, by the commander of a Spanish ship, which had touched at the Cape,
+that he, and all the officers of his nation, had received orders to the
+same effect. These assurances confirmed Captain Gore in the resolution he
+had taken of maintaining, on his part, a neutral conduct; and accordingly,
+when on the arrival of the Sybil, to convoy the India ships home, it was
+proposed to him to accompany them on their passage, he thought proper to
+decline an offer, the acceptance of which might, in case we had fallen in
+with any of the enemy's ships, have brought him into a very difficult and
+embarrassing situation.
+
+During our stay at the Cape, we met with every proof of the most friendly
+disposition toward us, both in the governor and principal persons of the
+place, as well Africans as Europeans. At our first arrival, Colonel Gordon,
+the commander of the Dutch forces, with whom I had the happiness of being
+on a footing of intimacy and friendship, was absent on a journey into the
+interior parts of Africa, but returned before our departure. He had, on
+this occasion, penetrated farther up the country than any other traveller
+had done before him, and made great additions to the valuable collection of
+natural curiosities with which he has enriched the museum of the Prince of
+Orange. Indeed, a long residence at the Cape, and the powerful assistance
+he has derived from his rank and situation there, joined to an active and
+indefatigable spirit, and an eager thirst after knowledge, have enabled him
+to acquire a more intimate and perfect knowledge of this part of Africa,
+than could have fallen to the lot of any other person; and it is with great
+pleasure I can congratulate the public on the information I have received
+of his intentions to give the world, from his own-hand, a history of his
+travels.[114]
+
+False Bay, situated to the eastward of the Cape of Good Hope, is frequented
+by shipping during the prevalence of the N.W. winds, which begin to blow in
+May, and make it dangerous to lie in Table Bay. It is terminated on the
+west by the Cape of Good Hope, and on the eastward by False Cape.
+
+The entrance of the bay is six leagues wide, the two capes bearing from
+each other due east and west. About eleven miles from the Cape of Good
+Hope, on the west side, is situated Simon's Bay, the only convenient
+station for ships to lie in; for although the road without it affords good
+anchorage, it is too open, and but ill circumstanced for procuring
+necessaries, the town being small, and supplied with provisions from Cape
+Town, which is about twenty-four miles distant. To the N.N.E. of Simon's
+Bay, there are several others, from which it may be easily distinguished,
+by a remarkable sandy way to the northward of the town, which makes a
+striking object. In steering for the harbour, along the west shore, there
+is a small flat rock, called Noah's Ark, and about a mile to the north-east
+of it, several others, called the Roman Rocks. These lie one mile and a
+half from the anchoring-place; and either between them, or to the northward
+of the Roman Rocks, there is a safe passage into the bay. When the north-
+west gales are set in, the following bearings will direct the mariner to a
+safe and commodious berth: Noah's Ark, S. 51° E., and the centre of the
+hospital, S. 53° W., in seven fathoms. But if the south-east winds have not
+done blowing, it is better to stay further out in eight or nine fathoms.
+The bottom is sandy, and the anchors settle considerably before they get
+hold. All the north part of the bay is low sandy land, but the east side is
+very high. About six miles east of Noah's Ark lies Seal Island, the south
+part of which is said to be dangerous, and not to be approached, with
+safety, nearer than in twenty-two fathoms. Off the Cape of Good Hope are
+many sunk rocks, some of which appear at low water; and others have
+breakers constantly on them.
+
+
+The latitude of the anchoring-place in Simon's
+  Bay, by observation                            34°20'S.
+The longitude                                    18 29 E.
+Dip of the south end of the magnetic needle      46 47
+Variation of the compass                         22 16 W.
+
+
+On the full and change days, it was high-water at 5^h 55^m apparent time;
+the tide rose and fell five feet five inches; at the neap tides, it rose
+four feet one inch.
+
+From the observations taken by Mr Bayley and myself, on the 11th of this
+month, when the Cape of Good Hope bore due west, we found its latitude to
+be 34° 23' S., which is 4' to the northward of its position, as determined
+by the Abbé de la Caille.
+
+Having completed our victualling, and furnished ourselves with the
+necessary supply of naval stores, we sailed out of the bay on the 9th of
+May, and on the 14th, we got into the south-east trade-wind, and steered to
+the westward of the islands of St Helena and Ascension. On the 31st, being
+in latitude 12° 48' S., longitude 15° 40' W., the magnetic needle was found
+to have no dip.
+
+On the 12th of June, we passed the equator for the fourth time during this
+voyage, in longitude 26° 16' W. We now began to perceive the effects of a
+current setting N. by E., half a knot an hour. It continued in this
+direction till the middle of July, when it began to set a little to the
+southward of the west.
+
+On the 12th of August, we made the western coast of Ireland, and after a
+fruitless attempt to get into Port Galway, from whence it was Captain
+Gore's intentions to have sent the journals and maps of our voyage to
+London, we were obliged, by strong southerly winds, to steer to the
+northward. Our next object was to put into Lough Swilly; but the wind
+continuing in the same quarter, we stood on to the northward of Lewis
+Island; and on the 22d of August, at eleven in the morning, both ships came
+to an anchor at Stromness. From hence, I was dispatched by Captain Gore, to
+acquaint the Board of Admiralty with our arrival; and on the 4th day of
+October the ships arrived safe at the Nore, after an absence of four years,
+two months, and twenty-two days.
+
+On quitting the Discovery at Stromness, I had the satisfaction of leaving
+the whole crew in perfect health; and at the same time, the number of
+convalescents on board the Resolution did not exceed two or three, of whom
+only one was incapable of service. In the course of our voyage, the
+Resolution lost but five men by sickness, three of whom were in a
+precarious state of health at our departure from England; the Discovery did
+not lose a man. An unremitting attention to the regulations established by
+Captain Cook, with which the world is already acquainted, may be justly
+considered as the principal cause, under the blessing of Divine Providence,
+of this singular success. But the baneful effects of salt provisions might
+perhaps, in the end, have been felt, notwithstanding these salutary
+precautions, if we had not assisted them, by availing ourselves of every
+substitute, our situation at various times afforded. These frequently
+consisting of articles, which our people had not been used to consider as
+food for men, and being sometimes exceedingly nauseous, it required the
+joint aid of persuasion, authority, and example, to conquer their
+prejudices and disgusts.
+
+The preventives we principally relied on were sour krout and portable soup.
+As to the antiscorbutic remedies, with which we were amply supplied, we had
+no opportunity of trying their effects, as there did not appear the
+slightest symptoms of the scurvy, in either ship, during the whole voyage.
+Our malt and hops had also been kept as a resource, in case of actual
+sickness; and on examination at the Cape of Good Hope, were found entirely
+spoiled. About the same time, were opened some casks of biscuit, flour,
+malt, pease, oatmeal, and groats, which, by way of experiment, had been put
+up in small casks, lined with tin-trail, and found all, except the pease,
+in a much better state, than could have been expected in the usual manner
+of package.
+
+I cannot neglect this opportunity of recommending to the consideration of
+government, the necessity of allowing a sufficient quantity of Peruvian
+bark, to such of his majesty's ships as may be exposed to the influence of
+unwholesome climates. It happened very fortunately in the Discovery, that
+only one of the men that had fevers in the Straits of Sunda, stood in need
+of this medicine, as he alone consumed the whole quantity usually carried
+out by surgeons, in such vessels as ours. Had more been affected in the
+same manner, they would probably all have perished, from the want of the
+only remedy capable of affording them effectual relief.
+
+Another circumstance attending this voyage, which, if we consider its
+duration, and the nature of the service in which we were engaged, will
+appear scarcely less singular than the extraordinary healthiness of the
+crews, was, that the two ships never lost sight of each other for a day
+together, except twice; which was owing, the first time, to an accident
+that happened to the Discovery off the coast of Owhyhee; and the second, to
+the fogs we met with at the entrance of Awatska Bay. A stronger proof
+cannot be given of the skill and vigilance of our subaltern officers, to
+whom this share of merit almost entirely belongs.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+VOCABULARY OF THE LANGUAGE OF NOOTKA, OR KING GEORGE'S SOUND.
+
+_April_, 1778.
+
+
+
+        _Nootka_.            English.
+
+Opulszthl,                    _The sun_.
+Onulszthl,                    _The moon_.
+Nas, _or_ eenaeehl nas,       _The sky_.
+Noohchai,                     _A mountain_, or _hill_.
+Mooksee,                      _Rocks_, or _the shore_.
+Tanass, _or_ tanas,           _A man_.
+Oonook,                       _A song_.
+Eeneek, _or_ eleek,           _Fire_.
+Nuhchee, _or_ nookchee        _The land; a country_.
+Koassama,                     _The ground_.
+Mahtai,                       _A house_.
+Neit, _or_ neet,              _A candle_, or _lamp light_.
+Neetopok,                     _The smoke of a lamp_.
+Tassyai,                      _A door_.
+Ai, _and_ aio,                _Yes_.
+Wook, _or_ Wik,               _No_.
+Wik ait,                      _None, not any_.
+Macook,                       _To barter_.
+Kaeeemai, _or_ kyomai         _Give me some more of it_.
+Kootche, _or_ kotche          _To paddle_.
+Aook, _or_ chiamis,           _To eat, to chew_.
+Topalszthl, _or_              _The sea_.
+   toopilszthl,
+Oowhabbe,                     _A paddle_.
+Shapata, _or_ shapitz,        _A canoe_.
+   _or_ chapas,
+Tawailuck,                    _White bugle beads_.
+Seekemaile,                   _Iron_, or _metal of any sort_.
+Ahkoo, _or_ ahko,             _This_.
+Kaa, _or_ kaa chelle,         _Give it me, let me look at it_,
+                                  or _examine it_?
+Wook hak                      _Will he not do it_?
+Ma, _or_ maa,                 _Take it_.
+Chakeuk,                      _A hatchet_, or _hacking tool_.
+Eetche, _or_ abeesh,          _Displeasure_.
+Hahoome, _or_ haooma,         _Food_.
+Takho,                        _Bad. This iron is bad_, takho seekemaile.
+Chelle,                       _I, me_.
+Kaeeo,                        _Broken_.
+Alle, _or_ alla,              (Speaking to one) _Friend; hark ye_.
+Klao appe, _or_ klao,         _Keep it; I'll not have it_.
+Asko,                         _Long_, or _large_.
+Iakooeshmaish,                _Clothing in general_.
+Tahquoe, _or_ toohquoe,       _A metal button_, or _ear-ring_.
+Wae,                          (Calling to one, perhaps) _you_!
+Weekeetateesh,                _Sparkling sand, which they
+                                  sprinkle on their faces_.
+Chauk,                        _Water_.
+Pacheetl, _or_ pachatl,       _To give; give me_.
+Haweelsth, _or_ hawalth,      _Friendship; friend_.
+Kleeseetl,                    _To paint_, or _mark with a pencil_.
+Abeetzle,                     _To go away_, or _depart_.
+Sheesookto,                   _To remain_, or _abide_.
+Seeaik,                       _A stone weapon, with a square point_.
+Suhyaik,                      _A spear, pointed with bone_.
+Taak,                         _The wood of the depending pine_.
+Luksheer, _or_ luksheetl,     _To drink_.
+Soochis,                      _A tree, a wood_.
+Haieeaipt,                    _A broad leaf, shrub_, or _underwood_.
+Tohumbeet,                    _Variegated pine; silver pine_.
+Atheu,                        _The depending pine_; or _cypress_.
+Koeeklipt,                    _The Canadian pine_.
+Cho,                          _Go_.
+Sateu,                        _A pine-top_.
+Kleeteenek,                   _The little cloak that they wear_.
+Kleethak,                     _A bear's skin_.
+Klochimme,                    _Muscles_.
+Ohkullik,                     _A wooden box they hold things in_.
+Hislaiakasl, _or_             _Coarse mats of bark_.
+   slaikalzth,
+Eesee,                        _An instrument of bone to beat bark_.
+Chapuz koole,                 _The model of a canoe_.
+Klapatuketeel,                _A bag made of mat_.
+Tahmis,                       _To spit; spittle_.
+Wasuksheet,                   _To cough_.
+Poop,                         _Common moss_.
+Okumha,                       _The wind_.
+Chutzquabeelsl,               _A bag made of seal skin_.
+Konneeemis,                   _A kind of sea weed_.
+Quaookl, _or_                 _To sit down_.
+   tookpeetl,
+Klukeeszthl, _or_             _To rise up_.
+   quoeelszlhl,
+Tsookeeats,                   _To walk_.
+Kummutchchutl,                _To run_.
+Klutsklaee,                   _To strike, or beat_.
+Teeshcheetl,                  _To throw a stone_.
+Teelszhtee,                   _To rub_, or _sharpen metal_.
+Tsook,                        _To cleave_, or _strike hard_.
+Mahkatte,                     _A small liliaceous root, which they eat_.
+Eumahtame,                    _Fur of a sea-otter_.
+Cheemaine,                    _Their largest fishing-hooks_.
+Moostatte,                    _A bow_.
+Kahsheetl,                    _Dead_.
+Kleeshsheetl,                 _To shoot with a bow_.
+Tseehattee,                   _An arrow_.
+Katshak,                      _A flaxen garment, worn as their common
+                                  dress_.
+
+Heshcheene,                   _A plain_ Venus _shell_.
+Koohminne,                    _A bag rattle_.
+Akeeuk,                       _A plain bone point for striking
+                                  seals with_.
+Kaheita,                      _A barbed bone point for ditto_.
+Cheetakulheiwha,              _Bracelets of white bugle beads_.
+Mittemulszth,                 _Thongs of skin worn about the
+                                  wrist and neck_.
+Iaiopox,                      _Pieces of copper worn in the ear_.
+Neesksheetl,                  _To sneeze_.
+Suchkas,                      _A comb_.
+Seehl,                        _Small feathers which they strew
+                                  on their heads_.
+Wamuhte,                      _Twisted thongs and sinews,
+                                  worn about their ankles_.
+Kutseeoataia,                 _Veins under the skin_.
+Tookquuk,                     _The skin_.
+Muszthsle,                    _Pain_.
+Waeetch,                      _To sleep_.
+Siksaimaha,                   _To breathe_, or _pant_.
+Tuhsheetl,                    _To weep_.
+Matskoot,                     _A fly_.
+Matook,                       _To fly_.
+Kooees; _or_                  _Snow_, or _hail_.
+   quoees,
+Aopk,                         _To whistle_.
+Asheeatksheetl,               _To yawn_.
+Elsthltleek,                  _An instrument of two sticks standing
+                                  from each other with barbs_.
+Cheeeeakis,                   _A scar of a wound_.
+Tchoo,                        _Throw it down_, or _to me_.
+Cheetkoohekai, _or_           _A wooden instrument, with many bone teeth,
+   Cheetkoaik,                    to catch small fish with_.
+Kaenne, _or_ Koenai,          _A crow; a bird_.
+Keesapa,                      _A fish; a white bream_.
+Klaamoo,                      _A bream striped with blue and gold
+                                  colours_.
+Taaweesh, _or_                _A stone-weapon_, or _tomahawk,
+   Tsuskeeah,                     with a wooden handle_.
+Kamaisthlik,                  _A kind of snare to catch fish, or other
+                                  animals with_.
+Klahma,                       _Wing feathers of a red bird_.
+Seetsaennuk,                  _Anger; scolding_.
+Heeeai, _or_ Heeeee,          _A brown streaked snake_.
+Klapissime,                   _A racoon_.
+Owatinne,                     _A white-headed eagle_.
+Kluhmiss,                     _Train oil; a bladder filled with it_.
+Oukkooma,                     _Large carved wooden-faces_.
+Kotyook, _or_ Hotyok,         _A knife_.
+See eema,                     _A fishing net_.
+Weena,                        _A stranger_.
+Quahmiss,                     _Fish-roe strewed upon pine-branches and
+                                  sea-weed_.
+Kaatl,                        _Give me_.
+Hooksquaboolsthl,             _A whale-harpoon and rope_.
+Komook,                       _Chimæra monstrosa_.
+Quotluk, _or_                 _A sea-otter's skin_.
+   Quotlukac,
+Maasenusthl,                  _An oblong wooden weapon, two feet long_.
+Hokooma,                      _A wooden mask of the human face_.
+Tooquacumilsthl,              _A seal-skin_.
+Cha,                          _Let me see it_.
+Sooma,                        _A kind of haddock, of a reddish brown
+                                  colour_.
+Aeea,                         _A sardine_.
+Koeetsak,                     _A wolf-skin dress_.
+Keepsleetokszl,               _A woollen garment_.
+Isseu,                        _Pine-bark_.
+Wanshee,                      _Wildcat skin_(lynx brunneus).
+Chastimmetz,                  _A common, and also pine-martin_.
+Ookoomillszthl,               _A little round wooden cup_.
+Koomitz,                      _A human skull_.
+Keehlwahmoot,                 _A skin-bladder used in fishing_.
+Tseeapoox,                    _A conic cap made of mat, worn on the head_.
+Summeto,                      _A squirrel; they also called a rat by this
+                                  name_.
+Maalszthl,                    _A deer's horn_.
+Jakops,                       _A man, or male_.
+Kolsheetl, _or_ Kolsheat,     _To sup with a spoon_.
+Achatla, _or_ Achaklak,       _What is your name_?
+Achatlaha,                    _What is his name_?
+Akassheha, _or_ Akassche,     _What is the name of that_?
+Haismussik,                   _A wooden sabre_.
+Maeetsalulsthl,               _A bone weapon, like the Patoo_.
+Kookelixo,                    _A fish fin; the hand_.
+Natcha,                       _A fish tail_.
+Klihkleek,                    _The hoof of an animal_.
+Klaklasm,                     _A bracelet_.
+Ko,                           _An article, to give strength of expression
+                                  to another word_.
+Nahei, _or_ Naheis,           _Friendship_.
+Teelsthoop,                   _A large cuttle fish_.
+Pachas,                       _He gave it me_.
+Quaeeaitsaak,                 _A yellow, or red fox_.
+Atchakoe,                     _A limpet_.
+Aheita,                       _A sweet fern root they eat_.
+Kishkilltup,                  _The strawberry plant_.
+Akhmupt,                      _A narrow grass that grows on the rocks_.
+Klaiwahmiss,                  _A cloud_.
+Mollsthapait,                 _A feather_.
+Taeetcha,                     _Full, satisfied with eating_.
+Kaaitz,                       _A necklace of small volute shells_.
+Tahooquossim,                 _A carved human head of wood, decorated with
+                                  hair_.
+Moowatche,                    _A caned wooden vizor, like the head of a
+                                  Quebrentahuessos_.
+Mamat,                        _A black linnet with a white bill_.
+Klaokotl,                     _Give me something_.
+Pallszthpatl,                 _Glimmer (sheet)_.
+Pineetl,                      _The name they apply to a goat; probably of
+                                  a deer_.
+Seeta,                        _The tail of an animal_.
+Seehsheetl,                   _To kill_.
+Ooolszth,                     _A sandpiper_.
+Saeemitz,                     _Chequered straw-baskets_.
+Chookwak,                     _To go up_, or _away_.
+Kloosasht,                    _Smoked herrings_.
+Keetsma,                      _Puncturation_.
+Mikeellzyth,                  _To fasten_, or _tie a thing_.
+Cheeteeakamilzsth,            _White beads_.
+Kakkumipt,                    _A sea-weed_, or _grass, on which they
+strew fish-roe_.
+Eissuk,                       _A sort of leek_; allium triquetrum.
+Kutskushilzsth,               _To tear a thing_.
+Mitzsleo,                     _A knot_.
+Mamakeeo,                     _To tie a knot_.
+Kluksilzsth,                  _To loosen_, or _untie_.
+Klakaikom,                    _The leaf of a plant_.
+Sasinne, _or_ sasin,          _A humming-bird_.
+Koohquoppa,                   _A granulated lily-root they eat_.
+Seeweebt,                     _Alder-tree_.
+Kaweebt,                      _Raspberry-bush_.
+Kleehseep,                    _The flower of a plant_.
+Klumma,                       _Large wooden images placed at one end of
+                                  their houses_.
+Aiahtoop, _or_                _A porpoise_.
+   Aiahtoopsh,
+Toshko,                       _A small brown spotted cod_.
+Aszlimupt, _or_               _Flaxen stuff, of which they make their
+   Ulszthimipt,                   garments_.
+Wakash,                       _An expression of approbation_, or
+                                  _friendship_.
+Kullekeea,                    _Troughs out of which they eat_.
+Kaots,                        _A twig-basket_.
+Sllook,                       _The roof of a house; boards_.
+Eilszthmukt,                  _Nettles_.
+Koeeklass,                    _A wooden stage_, or _frame, on which the
+                                  fish-roe is dried_.
+Matlieu,                      _A withe of bark for fastening planks_.
+Nahass,                       _A circular hole that serves as a window_.
+Neetsoanimme,                 _Large planks of which their houses are
+                                  built_.
+Chaipma,                      _Straw_.
+Haquanuk,                     _A chest, or large box_.
+Chahkots,                     _A square wooden bucket, to hold water_.
+Chahquanna,                   _A square wooden drinking-cup_.
+Klennut,                      _A wooden wedge_.
+Kolkolsainum,                 _A large chest_.
+Klieutsunnim,                 _A board to kneel on when they paddle_.
+Tseelszthook,                 _A frame of square poles_.
+Aminulszth,                   _A fish_.
+Natckkoa _and_                _The particular names of two of the
+  Matseeta,                       monstrous images called Klumma_.
+Houa,                         _To go that way_.
+Achichil,                     _What does he say_?
+Aeek,                         _The oval part of a whale dart_.
+Aptsheetl,                    _To steal_.
+Quoeeup,                      _To break_.
+Uhshsapai,                    _To pull_.
+Tseehka,                      _A general song_.
+Apte, _or_ appe,              _You_.
+Kai,                          _Thanks_
+Kotl,                         _Me; I_.
+Punihpunih,                   _A black beating-stone_.
+Nootka,                       _The name of the bay or sound_.
+
+Yatseenequoppe,
+Kakallakeeheelook,            _The names of three men_.
+Nololokum,
+
+Satsuhcheek,                  _The name of a woman_.
+
+
+       *        *       *       *       *      *
+
+
+      NAMES OF DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE BODY.
+
+Ooomitz,                      _The head_.
+Apsoop,                       _The hair of the head_.
+Uhpeukel, _or_ upuppea,       _The forehead_.
+Cheecheetsh,                  _The teeth_.
+Choop,                        _The tongue_.
+Kussee, _or_ kassee,          _The eye_.
+Neets,                        _The nose_.
+Papai,                        _The ear_.
+Aamiss,                       _The cheek_.
+Eehthlux,                     _The chin_.
+Apuxim,                       _The beard_.
+Tseekoomitz,                  _The neck_.
+Seekutz,                      _The throat_.
+Eslulszth,                    _The face_.
+Eethluxooth,                  _The lips_.
+Klooshkcoah, klah, tamai,     _The nostrils_.
+Aeetchse,                     _The eye-brows_.
+Aapso,                        _The arm_.
+Aapsoonilk,                   _The arm-pit_.
+Eneema,                       _The nipple_.
+Kooquainux, _or_              _The fingers_.
+   Kooquainuxoo,
+Chushehuh,                    _Nail of the finger_.
+Kleashklinno,                 _The thighs and leg_.
+Klahtimme,                    _The foot_.
+Alahkomeetz,                  _The thumb_.
+Kopeeak,                      _The fore finger_.
+Taeeai,                       _The middle finger_.
+Oatso, _or_ akhukluc,         _The ring finger_.
+Kasleka,                      _The little finger_.
+
+
+TABLE to shew the Affinity between the Languages spoken at Oonalashka and
+Norton Sound, and those of the Green landers and Esquimaux.
+
+
+                                          _Greenland_.
+  English.   _Oonalashka. Norton Sound. From Grants. Esquimaux_.
+_A man_       Chengan                      Angut.
+_A woman_     Anagogenach.
+_The head_    Kameak                                    Ne-aw-cock.
+_The hair_    Emelach        Nooit                      Newrock.
+_The eye-brow_ Kamlik        Kameluk                    Coup-loot.
+_The eye_     Dhac           Enga                       Ehich.
+_The nose_    Anosche        Ngha                       Cring yauk.
+_The cheek_   Oolooeik       Oollooak                   Ou-lu uck-cur.
+_The ear_     Tootoosh       Shudeka                    Se-u-teck.
+_The lip_     Adhee          Hashlaw.
+_The teeth_   Agaloo.
+_The tongue_  Agonoc.
+_The beard_   Engelagoong    Oongai.
+_The chin_    Ismaloch       Tamluk                     Taplou.
+_The neck_    Ooioc                                     Coon-e-soke.
+_The breast_  Shimsen                                   Suk-ke-uck.
+_The arm_     Toolak         Dallek                     Telluck.
+_The hand_    Kedhachoonge   Aishet                     Alguit.
+_The finger_  Atooch.
+_The nails_   Cagelch        Shetooe.
+_The thigh_   Cachemac       Kookdoshac.
+_The leg_     Ketac          Kanaiak                    Ki-naw-auk.
+_The foot_    Ooleac         Etscheak                   E-te-ket.
+_The sun_     Agadac         Maje                       Suck-ki much.
+_The moon_    Toogedha.                                 Tac-cock.
+_The sky_     Enacac.
+_A cloud_     Aiengich.
+_The wind_    Caitchee.
+_The sea_     Alaooch        Emai                       Ut-koo-tuk-
+                                                        les.
+_Water_       Tangch         Mooe.
+_Fire_        Keiganach                                 E-ko-ma.
+_Wood_        Hearach.
+_A knife_     Kamelac.
+_A house_     Oolac                        Iglo         Tope-uck.
+_A canoe_     Eakeac         Caiac         Kaiak        Kirock.
+_A paddle_    Chasec         Pangehon      Pautik       Pow.
+_Iron_        Comeleuch      Shawik.                    Shaveck.
+_A bow_       Seiech.                                   Petick sic.
+_Arrows_      Agadhok.                                  Caukjuck.
+_Darts_       Ogwalook                     Aglikak.
+_A fish-hook_ Oochtac.
+_No_          Net          Ena            Nag.
+_Yes_, or _yea_ Ah         Eh             Illisve.
+_One_         Taradac      Adowjak        Attousek      Attouset.
+_Two_         Alac         Aiba           Arlak         Mardluk.
+_Three_       Canoogn      Pingashook     Pingaguah     Pingasut.
+_Four_        Sechn        Shetamik       Sissamat      Sissamat.
+_Five_        Chang        Dallamix       Tellimat      Tellimat.
+_Six_         Atoo         In counting                  Arbanget.
+                           more than
+                           five, they
+_Seven_       Ooloo        repeat the                 / Arbanget.
+                           same words                 \ Attausek.
+                           over again.
+_Eight_       Kamching                                  Arbanget
+                                                        mardik.
+_Nine_        Seching                                   Kollin illoet.
+_Ten_         Haso                                      Kollit.
+
+
+[113] The island of Tamarin, or Sambouricon, which lies about four leagues
+    to the north of Cracatoa, may be easily mistaken for the latter,
+    having a hill of nearly the same size and form, situated also near its
+    southern extremity.
+
+[114] Query, Was this intention ever realized? The work, supposing it to
+    have been published, was never heard of or seen by the writer.--E.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX TO THE CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS.
+
+
+No. I.
+
+
+NARRATIVE OF THE HON. JOHN BYRON; BEING AN ACCOUNT OF THE SHIPWRECK OF THE
+WAGER; AND THE SUBSEQUENT ADVENTURES OF HER CREW.
+
+
+WRITTEN BY HIMSELF.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX TO THE CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS.
+
+
+No. I.
+
+
+THE NARRATIVE OF THE HON. JOHN BYRON.
+
+
+
+
+THE AUTHOR'S PREFACE.
+
+
+As the greatest pain I feel in committing the following sheets to the
+press, arises from an apprehension that many of my readers will accuse me
+of egotism, I will not incur that charge in my preface, by detaining them
+with the reasons which have induced me, at this time, to yield to the
+desire of my friends. It is equally indifferent to the public to be told
+how it happened, that nothing should have got the better of my indolence
+and reluctance to comply with the same requests, for the space of twenty
+years.
+
+I will employ these few introductory pages merely to shew what pretensions
+this work may have to the notice of the world, after those publications
+which have preceded it.
+
+It is well known that the Wager, one of Lord Anson's squadron, was cast
+away upon a desolate island in the South-seas. The subject of this book is
+a relation of the extraordinary difficulties and hardships through which,
+by the assistance of Divine Providence, a small part of her crew escaped to
+their native land; and a very small proportion of those made their way, in
+a new and unheard-of manner, over a large and desert tract of land, between
+the western mouth of Magellanic Streight and the capital of Chili; a
+country scarce to be paralleled in any part of the globe, in that it
+affords neither fruits, grain, nor even roots proper for the sustenance of
+man; and, what is still more rare, the very sea, which yields a plentiful
+support to many a barren coast, on this tempestuous and inhospitable shore
+is found to be almost as barren as the land; and it must be confessed, that
+to those who cannot interest themselves with seeing human nature labouring,
+from day to day, to preserve its existence under the continual want of such
+real necessaries, as food and shelter from the most rigorous climate, the
+following sheets will afford but little entertainment.
+
+Yet, after all, it must be allowed there can be no other way of
+ascertaining the geography and natural history of a country, which is
+altogether morass and a rock, incapable of products or culture, than by
+setting down every minute circumstance which was observed in traversing it.
+The same may be said of the inhabitants, their manners, religion, and
+language. What fruits could an European reap from a more intimate
+acquaintance with them, than what he will find in the following accidental
+observations? We saw the most unprofitable spot on the globe of the earth,
+and such it is described and ascertained to be.
+
+It is to be hoped, some little amends may be made by such an insight as is
+given into the interior part of the Country; and I find what I have put
+down has had the good fortune to be pleasing to some of my friends;
+insomuch, that the only fault I have yet had laid to my papers is, that of
+being too short in the article of the Spanish settlements. But here I must
+say, I have been dubious of the partiality of my friends; and, as I think,
+justly fearful lest the world in general, who may perhaps find compassion
+and indulgence for a protracted tale of distress, may not give the same
+allowance to a luxurious imagination triumphing in a change of fortune, and
+sudden transition from the most dismal to the gayest scenes in the
+universe, and thereby indulging an egotism equally offensive to the envious
+and censorious.
+
+I speak as briefly as possible of matters previous to our final separation
+from the rest of Lord Anson's squadron; for it is from this epocha that the
+train of our misfortunes properly commences: and though Mr Bulkeley, one of
+the warrant officers of the Wager, has, long since, published a Journal and
+Account of the return of that part of the ship's company, which, dissenting
+from Captain Cheap's propoposal of endeavouring to regain their native
+country by way of the great continent of South America, took their passage
+home in the long-boat, through the Streights of Magellan, our transactions
+during our abode on the island have been related by him in so concise a
+manner, as to leave many particulars unnoticed, and others touched so
+slightly, that they appear evidently to have been put together with the
+purpose of justifying those proceedings which could not be considered in
+any other light than that of direct mutiny. Accordingly, we find that the
+main substance of his Journal is employed in scrutinizing the conduct of
+Captain Cheap, and setting forth the conferences which passed between him
+and the seceders, relative to the way and measures they were to take for
+their return home. I have, therefore, taken some pains to review those
+early passages of the unfortunate scene I am to represent, and to enter
+into a detail, without which no sound judgment can be formed of any
+disputed point, especially when it has been carried so far as to end in
+personal resentment. When contests and dissensions shall be found to have
+gone that length, it will be obvious to every reader, why a licentious crew
+should hearken to any factious leader, rather than to the solidity of their
+captain's advice, who made it evident to every unprejudiced understanding,
+that their fairest chance for safety and a better fortune, was to proceed
+with the long-boat till they should make prize of some vessel of the enemy,
+and thereby be enabled to bring to the commodore a supply of stout fellows
+to assist in his conquests, and share in the honour and rewards.
+
+And yet it is but justice, even to this ungovernable herd, to explain, that
+though, as I have said above, they appeared in the light of mutineers, they
+were not actually such in the eye of the law; for, till a subsequent act,
+made indeed on this occasion, the pay of a ship's crew ceased immediately
+upon her wreck, and consequently the officers' authority and command.
+
+Having explained the foregoing particulars, I hope I may flatter myself,
+there are few things in the following sheets which will not be readily
+understood by the greatest part of my readers; therefore I will not detain
+them any longer.[115]
+
+
+[115] Bulkeley's narrative above referred to, and which certainly deserves
+    to be better known than it now is, will be found in this Appendix, No.
+    2. The impartial reader, it is believed, will hesitate to join with
+    Byron in opinion as to the motives which occasioned its publication;
+    nor is it unimportant for him to recollect, that Byron himself at one
+    time sanctioned the chief measures and sentiments which Bulkeley and
+    his associates adopted.--E.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+
+Account of the Wager and her Equipment.--Captain Kid's Death.--Succeeded by
+Captain Cheap.--Our Disasters commence with our Voyage.--We lose Sight of
+our Squadron in a Gale of Wind.--Dreadful Storm.--Ship strikes.
+
+
+The equipment and destination of the squadron fitted out in the year 1740,
+of which Commodore Anson had the command, being sufficiently known from the
+ample and well-penned relation of it under his direction, I shall recite no
+particulars that are to be found in that work. But it may be necessary, for
+the better understanding the disastrous fate of the Wager, the subject of
+the following sheets, to repeat the remark, that a strange infatuation
+seemed to prevail in the whole conduct of this embarkation: For though it
+was unaccountably detained till the season for its sailing was past, no
+proper use was made of that time, which should have been employed in
+providing a suitable force of sailors and soldiery; nor was there a due
+attention given to other requisites for so peculiar and extensive a
+destination.
+
+This neglect not only rendered the expedition abortive in its principal
+object, but most materially affected the condition of each particular ship,
+and none so fatally as the Wager, who being an old Indiaman, bought into
+the service upon this occasion, was now fitted out as a man of war: But
+being made to serve as a store-ship, was deeply laden with all kinds of
+careening geer, military, and other stores, for the use of the other ships;
+and what is more, crowded, with bale-goods, and incumbered with
+merchandize. A ship of this quality and condition could not be expected to
+work with that readiness and ease which was necessary for her security and
+preservation in those heavy seas which she was to encounter. Her crew
+consisted of men pressed from long voyages to be sent upon a distant and
+hazardous service; on the other hand, all her land-forces were no more than
+a poor detachment of infirm and decrepid invalids from Chelsea hospital,
+desponding under the apprehensions of a long voyage. It is not then to be
+wondered, that Captain Kid, under whose command this ship sailed out of the
+port, should in his last moments presage her ill success, though nothing
+very material happened during his command.
+
+At his death he was succeeded by Captain Cheap, who still, without any
+accident, kept company with the squadron till we had almost gained the
+southernmost mouth of Straits Le Maire; when, being the sternmost ship, we
+were, by the sudden shifting of the wind to the southward, and the turn of
+the tide, very near being wrecked upon the rocks of Staten Land; which,
+notwithstanding, having weathered, contrary to the expectation of the rest
+of the squadron, we endeavoured all in our power to make up our lost way,
+and regain our station. This we effected, and proceeded in our voyage,
+keeping company with the rest of the ships for some time, when by a great
+roll of a hollow sea we carried away our mizen-mast, all the chain-plates
+to windward being broken. Soon after, hard gales at west coming on with a
+prodigious swell, there broke a heavy sea in upon the ship, which stove our
+boats, and filled us for some time.
+
+These accidents were the more disheartening, as our carpenter was on board
+the Gloucester, and detained there by the incessant tempestuous weather,
+and a sea impracticable for boats. In a few days he returned, and supplied
+the loss of a mizen-mast by a lower studding-sail boom; but this expedient,
+together with the patching up of our rigging, was a poor temporary relief
+to us. We were soon obliged to cut away our best bower-anchor to ease the
+fore-mast, the shrouds and chain-plates of which were all broken, and the
+ship in all parts in a most crazy condition.
+
+Thus shattered and disabled, a single ship, (for we had now lost sight of
+our squadron) we had the additional mortification to find ourselves bearing
+for the land on our lee-shore, having thus far persevered in the course we
+held, from an error in conjecture: For the weather was unfavourable for
+observation, and there are no charts of that part of the coast. When those
+officers who first perceived their mistake endeavoured to persuade the
+captain to alter his course, and bear away, for the greater surety, to the
+westward, he persisted in making directly, as he thought, for the island of
+Socoro; and to such as dared from time to time to deliver their doubts of
+being entangled with the land stretching to the westward, he replied, That
+he thought himself in no case at liberty to deviate from his orders, and
+that the absence of his ship from the first place of rendezvous would
+entirely frustrate the whole squadron in the first object of their attack,
+and possibly decide upon the fortune of the whole expedition. For the
+better understanding the force of his reasoning, it is necessary to
+explain, that the island of Socoro is in the neighbourhood of Baldivia, the
+capture of which place could not be effected without the junction of that
+ship, which carried the ordnance and military stores.
+
+The knowledge of the great importance of giving so early and unexpected a
+blow to the Spaniards, determined the captain to make the shortest way to
+the point in view; and that rigid adherence to orders, from which he
+thought himself in no case at liberty to depart, begot in him a stubborn
+defiance of all difficulties, and took away from him those apprehensions
+which so justly alarmed all such as, from ignorance of the orders, had
+nothing present to their minds but the dangers of a lee-shore.[116]
+
+We had for some time been sensible of our approach to the land, from no
+other token than those of weeds and birds, which are the usual indications
+of nearing the coast; but at length we had an imperfect view of an
+eminence, which we conjectured to be one of the mountains of the
+Cordilleras. This, however, was not so distinctly seen, but that many
+conceived it to be the effect of imagination; but if the captain was
+persuaded of the nearness of our danger, it was now too late to remedy it;
+for at this time the straps of the fore jeer blocks breaking, the fore-yard
+came down, and the greatest part of the men being disabled through fatigue
+and sickness, it was some time before it could be got up again. The few
+hands who were employed in this business now plainly saw the land on the
+larboard beam, bearing N, W., upon which the ship was driving bodily.
+Orders were then given immediately by the captain to sway the fore-yard up,
+and set the foresail; which done, we wore ship with her head to the
+southward, and endeavoured to crowd her off from the land; but the weather,
+from being exceedingly tempestuous, blowing now a perfect hurricane, and
+right in upon the shore, rendered our endeavours (for we were now only
+twelve hands fit for duty) entirely fruitless. The night came on, dreadful
+beyond description, in which, attempting to throw out our topsails to claw
+off the shore, they were immediately blown from the yards.
+
+In the morning, about four o'clock, the ship struck. The shock we received
+upon this occasion, though very great, being not unlike a blow of a heavy
+sea, such as in the series of preceding storms we had often experienced,
+was taken for the same; but we were soon undeceived by her striking more
+violently than before, which laid her upon her beam-ends, the sea making a
+fair breach over her. Every person that now could stir was presently upon
+the quarter-deck; and many even of those were alert upon this occasion that
+had not shewed their faces upon deck for above two months before: Several
+poor wretches, who were in the last stage of the scurvy, and who could not
+get out of their hammocks, were immediately drowned.
+
+In this dreadful situation she lay for some little time, every soul on
+board looking upon the present minute as his last, for there was nothing to
+be seen but breakers all around us. However, a mountainous sea hove her off
+from thence; but she presently struck again, and broke her tiller. In this
+terrifying and critical juncture, to have observed all the various modes of
+horror operating according to the several characters and complexions
+amongst us, it was necessary that the observer himself should have been
+free from all impressions of danger. Instances there were, however, of
+behaviour so very remarkable, they could not escape the notice of any one
+who was not entirely bereaved of his senses; for some were in this
+condition to all intents and purposes; particularly one, in the ravings
+despair brought upon him, was seen stalking about the deck flourishing a
+cutlass over his head, and calling himself king of the country, and
+striking every body he came near, till his companions, seeing no other
+security against his tyranny, knocked him down. Some, reduced before by
+long sickness and the scurvy, became on this occasion, as it were,
+petrified and bereaved of all sense, like inanimate logs, and were bandied
+to and fro by the jerks and rolls of the ship, without exerting any efforts
+to help themselves. So terrible was the scene of foaming breakers around
+us, that one of the bravest men we had could not help expressing his dismay
+at it, saying, it was too shocking a sight to bear; and would have thrown
+himself over the rails of the quarterdeck into the sea had he not been
+prevented; but at the same time there were not wanting those who preserved
+a presence of mind truly heroic. The man at the helm, though both rudder
+and tiller were gone, kept his station; and being asked by one of the
+officers if the ship would steer or not, first took his time to make trial
+by the wheel, and then answered with as much respect and coolness as if the
+ship had been in the greatest safety, and immediately after applied himself
+with his usual serenity to his duty, persuaded it did not become him to
+desert it as long as the ship kept together. Mr Jones, mate, who now
+survives not only this wreck, but that of the Litchfield man of war upon
+the coast of Barbary, at the time when the ship was in the most imminent
+danger, not only shewed himself undaunted, but endeavoured to inspire the
+same resolution in the men, saying, "My friends, let us not be discouraged,
+did you never see a ship amongst breakers before? Let us endeavour to pass
+her through them. Come, lend a hand: here is a sheet, and here is a brace,
+lay hold: I don't doubt but we may stick her yet near enough to the land to
+save our lives." This had so good an effect, that many who before were half
+dead, seemed active again, and now went to work in earnest. This Mr Jones
+did purely to keep up the spirits of the people as long as possible; for he
+often said afterwards, he thought there was not the least chance of a
+single man's being saved. We now run in between an opening of the breakers,
+steering by the sheets and braces, when providentially we stuck fast
+between two great rocks; that to windward sheltered us in some measure from
+the violence of the sea. We immediately cut away the main and fore-mast,
+but the ship kept beating in such a manner, that we imagined she could not
+hold together but a very little while. The day now broke, and the weather,
+that had been extremely thick, cleared away for a few moments, and gave us
+a glimpse of the land not far from us. We now thought of nothing but saving
+our lives. To get the boats out, as our masts were gone, was a work of some
+time, which when accomplished, many were ready to jump into the first, by
+which means they narrowly escaped perishing before they reached the shore.
+I now went to Captain Cheap, (who had the misfortune to dislocate his
+shoulder by a fall the day before, as he was going forward to get the fore-
+yard swayed up) and asked him if he would not go on shore; but he told me,
+as he had done before, that he would be the last to leave the ship; and he
+ordered me to assist in getting the men out as soon as possible. I had been
+with him very often from the time the ship first struck, as he desired I
+would, to acquaint him with every thing that passed; and I particularly
+remarked, that he gave his orders at that time with as much coolness as
+ever he had done during the former part of the voyage.
+
+The scene was now greatly changed, for many who but a few minutes before
+had shewn the strongest signs of despair, and were on their knees praying
+for mercy, imagining they were now not in that immediate danger, grew very
+riotous, broke open every chest and box that was at hand, stove in the
+heads of casks of brandy and wine as they were borne up to the hatch-way,
+and got so drunk, that some of them were drowned on board, and lay floating
+about the decks for some days after. Before I left the ship, I went down to
+my chest, which was at the bulk-head of the ward-room, in order to save
+some little matters if possible; but whilst I was there the ship thumped
+with such violence, and the water came in so fast, that I was forced to get
+upon the quarter-deck again without saving a single rag but what was upon
+my back. The boatswain and some of the people would not leave the ship so
+long as there was any liquor to be got at; upon which Captain Cheap
+suffered himself to be helped out of his bed, put into the boat, and
+carried on shore.
+
+
+[116] Captain Cheap has been suspected of a design of going on the Spanish
+    coast without the commodore; but no part of his conduct seems to
+    authorize, in the least, such a suspicion. The author who brings this
+    heavy charge against him, is equally mistaken in imagining that
+    Captain Cheap had not instructions to sail to this island, and that
+    the commodore did neither go nor send thither to inform himself if any
+    of the squadron were there. This appears from the orders delivered to
+    the captains of the squadron the day before they sailed from St
+    Catherine's (L. Anson's Voyage, vol. xi, p. 267,); from the orders of
+    the council on board the Centurion in the bay of St Julian, (p. 276,)
+    and from the conduct of the commodore, (p. 305,) who cruized (with the
+    utmost hazard) more than a fortnight off the island of Socoro, and
+    along the coast in its neighbourhood. It was the second rendezvous at
+    Baldivia, and not that at Socoro, that the commodore was forced by
+    necessity to neglect.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+
+We land on a wild Shore.--No Appearance of Inhabitants.--One of our
+Lieutenants dies.--Conduct of a Part of the Crew who remained on the
+Wreck.--We name the Place of our Residence Mount Misery.--Narrative of
+Transactions there.--Indians appear in Canoes off the Coast.--Description
+of them.--Discontents amongst our People.
+
+
+It is natural to think, that to men thus upon the point of perishing by
+shipwreck, the getting to land was the highest attainment of their wishes;
+undoubtedly it was a desirable event; yet, all things considered, our
+condition was but little mended by the change. Which ever way we looked, a
+scene of horror presented itself; on one side the wreck, (in which was all
+that we had in the world, to support and subsist us) together with a
+boisterous sea, presented us with the most dreary prospect; on the other,
+the land did not wear a much more favourable appearance: desolate and
+barren, without sign of culture, we could hope to receive little other
+benefit from it than the preservation it afforded us from the sea. It must
+be confessed this was a great and merciful deliverance from immediate
+destruction; but then we had wet, cold, and hunger to struggle with, and no
+visible remedy against any of those evils. Exerting ourselves, however,
+though faint, benumbed, and almost helpless, to find some wretched covert
+against the extreme inclemency of the weather, we discovered an Indian hut
+at a small distance from the beach, within a wood, in which as many as
+possible, without distinction, crowded themselves, the night coming on
+exceedingly tempestuous and rainy. But here our situation was such as to
+exclude all rest and refreshment by sleep from most of us, for, besides
+that we pressed upon one another extremely, we were not without our alarms
+and apprehensions of being attacked by the Indians, from a discovery we
+made of some of their lances and other arms in our hut; and our uncertainty
+of their strength and disposition gave alarm to our imagination, and kept
+us in continual anxiety.
+
+In this miserable hovel, one of our company, a lieutenant of invalids, died
+this night; and of those who for want of room took shelter under a great
+tree, which stood them in very little stead, two more perished by the
+severity of that cold and rainy night. In the morning, the calls of hunger,
+which had been hitherto suppressed by our attention to more immediate
+dangers and difficulties, were now become too importunate to be resisted.
+We had most of us fasted eight-and-forty hours, some more; it was time
+therefore to make enquiry among ourselves what store of sustenance had been
+brought from the wreck by dire providence of some, and what could be
+procured on the island by the industry of others; but the produce of the
+one amounted to no more than two or three pounds of biscuit-dust preserved
+in a bag; and all the success of those who ventured abroad, the weather
+being still exceedingly bad, was to kill one sea-gull and pick some wild
+sellery. These, therefore, were immediately put into a pot, with the
+addition of a large quantity of water, and made into a kind of soup, of
+which each partook as far as it would go; but we had no sooner thrown this
+down than we were seized with the most painful sickness at our stomachs,
+violent reachings, swoonings, and other symptoms of being poisoned. This
+was imputed to various causes, but in general to the herbs we made use of,
+in the nature and quality of which we fancied ourselves mistaken; but a
+little farther enquiry let us into the real occasion of it, which was no
+other than this: the biscuit-dust was the sweepings of the bread-room, but
+the bag in which they were put had been a tobacco-bag, the contents of
+which not being entirely taken out, what remained mixed with the biscuit-
+dust, and proved a strong emetic.
+
+We were in all about a hundred and forty who had got to shore, but some few
+remained still on board, detained either by drunkenness or a view of
+pillaging the wreck, among whom was the boatswain. These were visited by an
+officer in the yawl, who was to endeavour to prevail upon them to join the
+rest; but finding them in the greatest disorder and disposed to mutiny, he
+was obliged to desist from his purpose and return without them. Though we
+were very desirous, and our necessities required that we should take some
+survey of the land we were upon, yet being strongly prepossessed that the
+savages were retired but some little distance from us, and waited to see us
+divided, our parties did not make this day any great excursions from the
+hut; but as far as we went, we found it very morassy and unpromising. The
+spot which we occupied was a bay formed by hilly promontories; that to the
+north so exceeding steep, that in order to ascend it (for there was no
+going round, the bottom being washed by the sea) we were at the labour of
+cutting steps. This, which we call Mount Misery, was of use to us in taking
+some observations afterwards when the weather would permit: the southern
+promontory was not so inaccessible. Beyond this, I, with some others,
+having reached another bay, found driven ashore some parts of the wreck,
+but no kind of provision; nor did we meet with any shell-fish, which we
+were chiefly in search of. We therefore returned to the rest, and for that
+day made no other repast than what the wild sellery afforded us. The
+ensuing night proved exceedingly tempestuous; and, the sea running very
+high, threatened those on board with immediate destruction by the parting
+of the wreck. They then were as solicitous to get ashore as they were
+before obstinate in refusing the assistance we sent them; and when they
+found the boat did not come to their relief at the instant they expected
+it, without considering how impracticable a thing it was to send it them in
+such a sea, they fired one of the quarter-deck guns at the hut, the ball of
+which did but just pass over the covering of it, and was plainly heard by
+the captain and us who were within. Another attempt, therefore, was made to
+bring these madmen to land; which, however, by the violence of the sea and
+other impediments, occasioned by the mast that lay alongside, proved
+ineffectual. This unavoidable delay made the people on board outrageous;
+they fell to beating every thing to pieces that fell in the way; and,
+carrying their intemperance to the greatest excess, broke open chests and
+cabins for plunder that could be of no use to them; and so earnest were
+they in this wantonness of theft, that one man had evidently been murdered
+on account of some division of the spoil, or for the sake of the share that
+fell to him, having all the marks of a strangled corpse. One thing in this
+outrage they seemed particularly attentive to, which was, to provide
+themselves with arms and ammunition, in order to support them in putting
+their mutinous designs in execution, and asserting their claim to a lawless
+exemption from the authority of their officers, which they pretended must
+cease with the loss of the ship. But of these arms, which we stood in great
+need of, they were soon bereaved upon coming ashore, by the resolution of
+Captain Cheap and Lieutenant Hamilton of the marines. Among these mutineers
+who had been left on board, as I observed before, was the boatswain, who,
+instead of exerting the authority he had over the rest, to keep them within
+bounds as much as possible, was himself a ringleader in their riot; him,
+without respect to the figure he then made, for he was in laced clothes,
+Captain Cheap, by a blow well laid on with his cane, felled to the ground.
+It was scarce possible to refrain from laughter at the whimsical appearance
+these fellows made, who, having rifled the chests of the officers best
+suits, had put them on over their greasy trowsers and dirty checked shirts.
+They were soon stripped of their finery, as they had before been obliged to
+resign their arms.
+
+The incessant rains and exceeding cold weather in this climate, rendered it
+impossible for us to subsist long without shelter; and the hut being much
+too little to receive us all, it was necessary to fall upon some expedient,
+without delay, which might serve our purpose: accordingly the gunner,
+carpenter, and some more, turning the cutter keel upwards, and fixing it
+upon props, made no despicable habitation. Having thus established some
+sort of settlement, we had the more leisure to look about us, and to make
+our researches with greater accuracy than we had before, after such
+supplies as the most desolate coasts are seldom unfurnished with.
+Accordingly we soon provided ourselves with some sea-fowl, and found
+limpets, mussels, and other shellfish in tolerable abundance; but this
+rummaging of the shore was now becoming extremely irksome to those who had
+any feeling, by the bodies of our drowned people thrown among the rocks,
+some of which were hideous spectacles, from the mangled condition they were
+in by the violent surf that drove in upon the coast. These horrors were
+overcome by the distresses of our people, who were even glad of the
+occasion of killing the gallinazo (the carrion crow of that country) while
+preying on these carcases, in order to make a meal of them. But a provision
+by no means proportionable to the number of mouths to be fed, could, by our
+utmost industry, be acquired from that part of the island we had hitherto
+traversed; therefore, till we were in a capacity of making more distant
+excursions, the wreck was to be applied to, as often as possible, for such
+supplies as could be got out of her. But as this was a very precarious fund
+in its present situation, and at best could not last us long; considering
+too that it was very uncertain how long we might be detained upon this
+island; the stores and provisions we were so fortunate as to retrieve, were
+not only to be dealt out with the most frugal economy, but a sufficient
+quantity, if possible, laid by, to fit us out, whenever we could agree upon
+any method of transporting ourselves from this dreary spot. The
+difficulties we had to encounter in these visits to the wreck, cannot be
+easily described; for no part of it being above water except the quarter-
+deck and part of the fore-castle, we were usually obliged to purchase such
+things as were within reach, by means of large hooks fastened to poles, in
+which business we were much incommoded by the dead bodies floating between
+decks.
+
+In order to secure what we thus got in a manner to answer the ends and
+purposes above-mentioned, Captain Cheap ordered a store-tent to be erected
+near his hut, as a repository, from which nothing was to be dealt out but
+in the measure and proportion agreed upon by the officers; and though it
+was very hard upon us petty officers, who were fatigued with hunting all
+day in quest of food, to defend this tent from invasion by night, no other
+means could be devised for this purpose so effectual as the committing this
+charge to our care; and we were accordingly ordered to divide the task
+equally between us. Yet, notwithstanding our utmost vigilance and care,
+frequent robberies were committed upon our trust, the tent being accessible
+in more than one place. And one night when I had the watch, hearing a stir
+within, I came unawares upon the thief and presenting a pistol to his
+breast, obliged him to submit to be tied up to a post till I had an
+opportunity of securing him more effectually. Depredations continued to be
+made on our reserved stock, notwithstanding the great hazard attending such
+attempts; for our common safety made it necessary to punish them with the
+utmost rigour. This will not be wondered at, when it is known how little
+the allowance which might consistently be dispensed from thence was
+proportionable to our common exigencies, so that our daily and nightly task
+of roving after food was not in the least relaxed thereby; and all put
+together was so far from answering our necessities, that many at this time
+perished with hunger. A boy, when no other eatables could be found, having
+picked up the liver of one of the drowned men, (whose carcase had been torn
+to pieces by the force with which the sea drove it among the rocks) was
+with difficulty withheld from making a meal of it. The men were so
+assiduous in their research after the few things which drove from the
+wreck, that in order to have no sharers of their good fortune, they
+examined the shore no less by night than by day; so that many of them who
+were less alert, or not so fortunate as their neighbours, perished with
+hunger, or were driven to the last extremity. It must be observed, that on
+the 14th of May we were cast away, and it was not till the twenty-fifth of
+this month that provision was served regularly from the store-tent.
+
+The land we were now settled upon was about 90 leagues to the northward of
+the western mouth of the Straits of Magellan, in the latitude of between 47
+and 48° south, from whence we could plainly see the Cordilleras; and by two
+lagoons on the north and south of us, stretching towards those mountains,
+we conjectured it was an island. But as yet we had no means of informing
+ourselves perfectly whether it was an island or the main; for besides that
+the inland parts at little distance from us seemed impracticable, from the
+exceeding great thickness of the wood, we had hitherto been in such
+confusion and want, (each finding full employment for his time, in scraping
+together a wretched subsistence, and providing shelter against the cold and
+rain) that no party could be formed to go upon discoveries. The climate and
+season too were utterly unfavourable to adventurers; and the coast, as far
+as our eye could stretch seaward, a scene of such dismal breakers as would
+discourage the most daring from making attempts in small boats. Nor were we
+assisted in our enquiries by any observation that could be made from that
+eminence we called Mount Misery, toward land, our prospect that way being
+intercepted by still higher hills and lofty woods: we had therefore no
+other expedient by means of which to come at this knowledge, but by fitting
+out one of our ship's boats upon some discovery, to inform us of our
+situation. Our long-boat was still on board the wreck; therefore a number
+of hands were now dispatched to cut the gunwale of the ship in order to get
+her out. Whilst we were employed in this business, there appeared three
+canoes of Indians paddling towards us: they had come round the point from
+the southern lagoons. It was some time before we could prevail upon them to
+lay aside their fears and approach us, which at length they were induced to
+do by the signs of friendship we made them, and by shewing some bale-goods,
+which they accepted, and suffered themselves to be conducted to the
+captain, who made them likewise some presents. They were strangely affected
+with the novelty thereof, but chiefly when shewn the looking-glass, in
+which the beholder could not conceive it to be his own face that was
+represented, but that of some other behind it, which he therefore went
+round to the back of the glass to find out.
+
+These people were of a small stature, very swarthy, having long black
+coarse hair hanging over their faces. It was evident, from their great
+surprise and every part of their behaviour, as well as their not having one
+thing in their possession which could be derived from white people, that
+they had never seen such. Their clothing was nothing but a bit of some
+beast's skin about their waists, and something woven from feathers over
+their shoulders; and as they uttered no word of any language we had ever
+heard, nor had any method of making themselves understood, we presumed they
+could have had no intercourse with Europeans. These savages, who upon their
+departure left us a few mussels, returned in two days, and surprised us by
+bringing three sheep. From whence they could procure these animals in a
+part of the world so distant from any Spanish settlement, cut off from all
+communication with the Spaniards by an inaccessible coast and unprofitable
+country, is difficult to conceive. Certain it is, that we saw no such
+creatures, nor ever heard of any such, from the Straits of Magellan till we
+got into the neighbourhood of Chiloe; it must be by some strange accident
+that these creatures came into their possession, but what that was we never
+could learn from them. At this interview we bartered with them for a dog or
+two, which we roasted and eat. In a few days after they made us another
+visit, and, bringing their wives with them, took up their abode with us for
+some days, then left us again.
+
+Whenever the weather permitted, which was now grown something drier, but
+exceeding cold, we employed ourselves about the wreck, from which we had,
+at sundry times, recovered several articles of provision and liquor: these
+were deposited in the store-tent. Ill humour and discontent, from the
+difficulties we laboured under in procuring subsistence, and the little
+prospect there was of any amendment in our condition, was now breaking out
+apace. In some it shewed itself by a separation of settlement and
+habitation; in others, by a resolution of leaving the captain entirely, and
+making a wild journey by themselves, without determining upon any plan
+whatever. For my own part, seeing it was the fashion, and liking none of
+their parties, I built a little hut just big enough for myself and a poor
+Indian dog I found in the woods, who could shift for himself along shore at
+low water, by getting limpets. This creature grew so fond of me and
+faithful, that he would suffer nobody to come near the hut without biting
+them. Besides those seceders I mentioned, some laid a scheme of deserting
+us entirely; these were in number ten, the greatest part of them a most
+desperate and abandoned crew, who, to strike a notable stroke before they
+went off, placed half a barrel of gunpowder close to the captain's hut,
+laid a train to it, and were just preparing to perpetrate their wicked
+design of blowing up their commander, when they were with difficulty
+dissuaded from it by one who had some bowels and remorse of conscience left
+in him. These wretches, after rambling some time in the woods, and finding
+it impracticable to get off, for they were then convinced that we were not
+upon the main, as they had imagined when they first left us, but upon an
+island within four or five leagues of it, returned and settled about a
+league from us; however, they were still determined, as soon as they could
+procure craft fit for their purpose, to get to the main. But before they
+could effect this, we found means to prevail upon the armourer and one of
+the carpenter's crew, two very useful men to us, who had imprudently joined
+them, to come over again to their duty. The rest, (one or two excepted)
+having built a punt, and converted the hull of one of the ship's masts into
+a canoe, went away up one of the lagoons, and never were heard of more.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+
+Unfortunate Death of Mr Cozens.--Improper Conduct of Captain Cheap.--The
+Indians join us in a friendly Manner, but depart presently on account of
+the Misconduct of our Men.--Our Number dreadfully reduced by Famine.--
+Description of the various Contrivances used for procuring Food.--Further
+Transactions.--Departure from the Island.
+
+
+These being a desperate and factious set, did not distress us much by their
+departure, but rather added to our future security. One in particular,
+James Mitchell by name, we had all the reason in the world to think had
+committed no less than two murders since the loss of our ship, one on the
+person found strangled on board, another on the body of a man whom we
+discovered among some bushes upon Mount Misery, stabbed in several places,
+and shockingly mangled. This diminution of our number was succeeded by an
+unfortunate accident much more affecting in its consequences, I mean the
+death of Mr Cozens, midshipman; in relating which with the necessary
+impartiality and exactness, I think myself obliged to be more than ordinary
+particular. Having one day among other things, got a cask of pease out of
+the wreck, about which I was almost constantly employed, I brought it to
+shore in the yawl, when having landed it, the captain came down upon the
+beach, and bid me to go up to some of the tents and order hands to come
+down and roll it up; but finding none except Mr Cozens, I delivered him the
+orders, who immediately came down to the captain, where I left them when I
+returned to the wreck. Upon my coming on shore again, I found that Mr
+Cozens was put under confinement by the captain for being drunk and giving
+him abusive language; however, he was soon after released. A day or two
+after he had some dispute with the surgeon, and came to blows: all these
+things incensed the captain greatly against him. I believe this unfortunate
+man was kept warm with liquor, and set on by some ill-designing persons;
+for, when sober, I never knew a better-natured man, or one more
+inoffensive. Some little time after, at the hour of serving provisions, Mr
+Cozens was at the store-tent; and having, it seems, lately had a quarrel
+with the purser, and now some words arising between them, the latter told
+him he was come to mutiny; and without any further ceremony fired a pistol
+at his head, which narrowly missed him. The captain, hearing the report of
+the pistol, and perhaps the purser's words, that Cozens was come to mutiny,
+ran out of his hut with a cocked pistol in his hand, and, without asking
+any questions, immediately shot him through the head. I was at this time in
+my hut, as the weather was extremely bad, but running out upon the alarm of
+this firing, the first thing I saw was Mr Cozens on the ground weltering in
+his blood: he was sensible, and took me by the hand, as he did several
+others, shaking his head, as if he meant to take leave of us. If Mr Cozens'
+behaviour to his captain was indecent and provoking, the captain's, on the
+other hand, was rash and hasty. If the first was wanting in that respect
+and observance which is due from a petty officer to his commander, the
+latter was still more unadvised in the method he took for the enforcement
+of his authority; of which, indeed, he was jealous to the last degree, and
+which he saw daily declining, and ready to be trampled upon. His mistaken
+apprehension of a mutinous design in Mr Cozens, the sole motive of this
+rash action, was so far from answering the end he proposed by it, that the
+men, who before were much dissatisfied and uneasy, were by this unfortunate
+step thrown almost into open sedition and revolt. It was evident that the
+people, who ran out of their tents, alarmed by the report of fire-arms,
+though they disguised their real sentiments for the present, were extremely
+affected at this catastrophe of Mr Cozens, for he was greatly beloved by
+them: their minds were now exasperated, and it was to be apprehended, that
+their resentment, which was smothered for the present, would shortly shew
+itself in some desperate enterprize. The unhappy victim, who lay weltering
+in his blood on the ground before them, seemed to absorb their whole
+attention; the eyes of all were fixed upon him; and visible marks of the
+deepest concern appeared in the countenances of the spectators. The
+persuasion the captain was under, at the time he shot Mr Cozens, that his
+intentions were mutinous, together with a jealousy of the diminution of his
+authority, occasioned also his behaving with less compassion and tenderness
+towards him afterwards than was consistent with the unhappy condition of
+the poor sufferer: for when it was begged as a favour by his mess-mates,
+that Mr Cozens might be removed to their tent, though a necessary thing in
+his dangerous situation, yet it was not permitted; but the poor wretch was
+suffered to languish on the ground some days with no other covering than a
+bit of canvas thrown over some bushes, where he died. But to return to our
+story: the captain, addressing himself to the people thus assembled, told
+them, that it was his resolution to maintain his command over them as
+usual, which still remained in as much force as ever; and then ordered them
+all to return to their respective tents, with which order they instantly
+complied. Now we had saved our long-boat from the wreck, and got it in our
+possession, there was nothing that seemed so necessary towards the
+advancing our delivery from this desolate place as the new-modelling this
+vessel, so as to have room for all those who were inclined to go off in
+her, and to put her in a condition to bear the stormy seas we must of
+course encounter. We therefore hauled her up, and having placed her upon
+blocks, sawed her in two, in order to lengthen her about twelve feet by the
+keel. For this purpose, all those who could be spared from the more
+immediate task of procuring subsistence, were employed in fitting and
+shaping timber as the carpenter directed them; I say, in procuring
+subsistence, because the weather lately having been very tempestuous, and
+the wreck working much, had disgorged a great part of her contents, which
+were every where dispersed about the shore.
+
+We now sent frequent parties up the lagoons, which sometimes succeeded in
+getting some sea-fowl for us. The Indians appearing again in the offing, we
+put off our yawl in order to frustrate any design they might have of going
+up the lagoon towards the deserters, who would have availed themselves of
+some of their canoes to have got upon the main. Having conducted them in,
+we found that their intention was to settle among us, for they had brought
+their wives and children with them, in all about fifty persons, who
+immediately set about building themselves wigwams, and seemed much
+reconciled to our company; and, could we have entertained them as we ought,
+they would have been of great assistance to us, who were extremely put to
+it to subsist ourselves, being a hundred in number; but the men, now
+subject to little or no controul, endeavoured to seduce their wives, which
+gave the Indians such offence, that in a short time they found means to
+depart, taking every thing along with them; and we, being sensible of the
+cause, never expected to see them return again. The carpenter having made
+some progress in his work upon the long-boat, in which he was enabled to
+proceed tolerably, by the tools and other articles of his business
+retrieved from the wreck, the men began to think of the course they should
+take to get home; or rather, having borrowed Sir John Narborough's voyage
+of Captain Cheap, by the application of Mr Bulkely, which book he saw me
+reading one day in my tent, they immediately upon perusing it, concluded
+upon making their voyage home by the Straits of Magellan. This plan was
+proposed to the captain, who by no means approved of it, his design being
+to go northwards, with a view of seizing a ship of the enemy's, by which
+means he might join the commodore: at-present, therefore, here it rested.
+But the men were in high spirits from the prospect they had of getting off
+in the long-boat, overlooking all the difficulties and hazards of a voyage
+almost impracticable, and caressing the carpenter, who indeed was an
+excellent workman, and deserved all the encouragement they could give him.
+The Indians having left us, and the weather continuing tempestuous and
+rainy, the distresses of the people for want of food became insupportable.
+Our number, which was at first 145, was now reduced to 100, and chiefly by
+famine, which put the rest upon all shifts and devices to support
+themselves.
+
+One day, when I was at home in my hut with my Indian dog, a party came to
+my door, and told me their necessities were such, that they must eat the
+creature or starve.
+
+Though their plea was urgent, I could not help using some arguments to
+endeavour to dissuade them from killing him, as his faithful services and
+fondness deserved it at my hands; but, without weighing my arguments, they
+took him away by force and killed him; upon which, thinking that I had at
+least as good a right to a share as the rest, I sat down with them and
+partook of their repast. Three weeks after that I was glad to make a meal
+of his paws and skin, which, upon recollecting the spot where they had
+killed him, I found thrown aside and rotten. The pressing calls of hunger
+drove our men to their wit's end, and put them upon a variety of devices to
+satisfy it. Among the ingenious this way, one Phipps, a boatswain's mate,
+having got a water puncheon, scuttled it; then lashing two logs, one on
+each side, set out in quest of adventures in this extraordinary and
+original piece of embarkation. By this means he would frequently, when all
+the rest were starving, provide himself with wild-fowl; and it must have
+been very bad weather indeed which could deter him from putting out to sea
+when his occasions required. Sometimes he would venture far out in the
+offing, and be absent the whole day; at last, it was his misfortune, at a
+great distance from shore, to be overset by a heavy sea, but being near a
+rock, though no swimmer, he managed so as to scramble to it, and with great
+difficulty ascended it: There he remained two days with very little hopes
+of any relief, for he was too far off to be seen from shore; but
+fortunately a boat, having put off and gone in quest of wild-fowl that way,
+discovered him making such signals as he was able, and brought him back to
+the island. But this accident did not discourage him, but that soon after,
+having procured an ox's hide, used on board for sifting powder, and called
+a gunner's hide, by the assistance of some hoops he formed something like a
+canoe, in which he made several successful voyages. When the weather would
+permit us, we seldom failed of getting some wild-fowl, though never in any
+plenty, by putting off with our boats; but this most inhospitable climate
+is not only deprived of the sun for the most part by a thick, rainy
+atmosphere, but is also visited by almost incessant tempests. It must be
+confessed we reaped some benefit from these hard gales and overgrown seas,
+which drove several things ashore; but there was no dependence on such
+accidental relief; and we were always alert to avail ourselves of every
+interval of fair weather, though so little to be depended on, that we were
+often unexpectedly and to our peril overtaken by a sudden change. In one of
+our excursions, I, with two more, in a wretched punt of our own making, had
+no sooner landed at our station upon a high rock, than the punt was driven
+loose by a sudden squall; and had not one of the men, at the risk of his
+life, jumped into the sea and swam on board her, we must in all probability
+have perished, for we were more than three leagues from the island at the
+time. Among the birds we generally shot, was the painted goose, whose
+plumage is variegated with the most lively colours; and a bird much larger
+than a goose, which we called the racehorse, from the velocity with which
+it moved upon the surface of the water, in a sort of half-flying half-
+running motion. But we were not so successful in our endeavours by land;
+for though we sometimes got pretty far into the woods, we met with very few
+birds in our walks. We never saw but three woodcocks, two of which were
+killed by Mr Hamilton, and one by myself. These, with some humming-birds,
+and a large kind of robin red-breast, were the only feathered inhabitants
+of this island, excepting a small bird with two very long feathers in his
+tail, which was generally seen amongst the rocks, and was so tame, that I
+have had them rest upon my shoulder whilst I have been gathering shellfish.
+Indeed, we were visited by many birds of prey, some very large, but these
+only occasionally, and, as we imagined, allured by some dead whale in the
+neighbourhood, which was once seen. However, if we were so fortunate as to
+kill one of them, we thought ourselves very well off. In one of my walks,
+seeing a bird of this latter kind upon an eminence, I endeavoured to come
+upon it unperceived with my gun, by means of the woods which lay at the
+back of that eminence; but when I had proceeded so far in the wood as to
+think I was in a line with it, I heard a growling close by me, which made
+me think it advisable to retire as soon as possible: The woods were so
+gloomy I could see nothing; but as I retired, this noise followed me close
+till I had got out of them. Some of our men did assure me that they had
+seen a very large beast in the woods, but their description of it was too
+imperfect to be relied upon. The wood here is chiefly of the aromatic kind;
+the iron wood, a wood of a very deep red hue, and another, of an exceeding
+bright yellow. All the low spots are very swampy; but, what we thought
+strange, upon the summits of the highest hills were found beds of shells, a
+foot or two thick.
+
+The long-boat being nearly finished, some of our company were selected to
+go out in the barge in order to reconnoitre the coast to the southward,
+which might assist us in the navigation we were going upon. This party
+consisted of Mr Bulkely, Mr Jones, the purser, myself, and ten men. The
+first night we put into a good harbour, a few leagues to the southward of
+Wager's Island, where finding a large bitch big with puppies, we regaled
+upon them. In this expedition we had our usual bad weather and breaking
+seas, which were grown to such a height the third day, that we were
+obliged, through distress, to push in at the first inlet we saw at hand.
+This we had no sooner entered, than we were presented with a view of a fine
+bay, in which having secured the barge, we went ashore; but the weather
+being very rainy, and finding nothing to subsist upon, we pitched a bell-
+tent, which we had brought with us, in the wood, opposite to where the
+barge lay. As this tent was not large enough to contain us all, I proposed
+to four of the people to go to the end of the bay, about two miles distant
+from the bell-tent, to occupy the skeleton of an old Indian wigwam, which I
+had discovered in a walk that way upon our first landing. This we covered
+to windward with sea-weed; and lighting a fire, laid ourselves down, in
+hopes of finding a remedy for our hunger in sleep; but we had not long
+composed ourselves before one of our company was disturbed by the blowing
+of some animal at his face, and upon opening his eyes was not a little
+astonished to see by the glimmering of the fire, a large beast standing
+over him. He had presence of mind enough to snatch a brand from the fire,
+which was now very low, and thrust it at the nose of the animal, who
+thereupon made off: This done, the man awoke us, and related, with horror
+in his countenance, the narrow escape he had of being devoured. But though
+we were under no small apprehensions of another visit from this animal, yet
+our fatigue and heaviness was greater than our fears, and we once more
+composed ourselves to rest, and slept the remainder of the night without
+any further disturbance. In the morning, we were not a little anxious to
+know how our companions had fared; and this anxiety was increased upon
+tracing the footsteps of the beast in the sand in a direction towards the
+bell-tent. The impression was deep and plain, of a large round foot well
+furnished with claws. Upon our acquainting the people in the tent with the
+circumstances of our story, we found that they too had been visited by the
+same unwelcome guest, which they had driven away by much the same
+expedient.
+
+We now returned from this cruise, with a strong gale, to Wager's Island,
+having found it impracticable to make farther discoveries in the barge on
+so dangerous a coast, and in such heavy seas. Here we soon discovered, by
+the quarters of dogs hanging up, that the Indians had brought a fresh
+supply to our market. Upon enquiry, we found that there had been six canoes
+of them, who, among other methods of taking fish, had taught their dogs to
+drive the fish into a corner of some pond or lake, from whence they were
+easily taken out by the skill and address of these savages. The old cabal,
+during our absence, had been frequently revived; the debates of which
+generally ended in riot and drunkenness. This cabal was chiefly held in a
+large tent, which the people belonging to it had taken some pains to make
+snug and convenient, and lined with bales of broad cloth driven from the
+wreck. Eighteen of the stoutest fellows of the ship's company had
+possession of this tent, from whence were dispatched committees to the
+captain, with the resolutions they had taken with regard to their
+departure, but oftener for liquor. Their determination was to go in the
+long-boat to the southward by the Straits of Magellan; and the point they
+were labouring, was to prevail upon the captain to accompany them. But
+though he had fixed upon a quite different plan, which was to go to the
+northward, yet he thought it politic at present seemingly to acquiesce with
+them, in order to keep them quiet. When they began to stipulate with him,
+that he should be under some restrictions in point of command, and should
+do nothing without consulting his officers, he insisted upon the full
+exercise of his authority as before. This broke all measures between them,
+and they were from this time determined he should go with them whether he
+would or no. A better pretence they could not have for effecting this
+design, than the unfortunate affair of Mr Cozens, which they therefore made
+use of for seizing his person, and putting him under confinement, in order
+to bring him to his trial in England.
+
+The long-boat was now launched and ready for sailing, and all the men
+embarked, excepting Captain Pemberton with a party of marines, who drew
+them up upon the beach with intent to conduct Captain Cheap on board; but
+he was at length persuaded to desist from this resolution by Mr Bulkely.
+The men too, finding they were straitened for room, and that their stock of
+provision would not admit of their taking supernumeraries aboard, were now
+no less strenuous for his enlargement, and being left to his option of
+staying behind. Therefore, after having distributed their share in the
+reserved stock of provision, which was very small, we departed, leaving
+Captain Cheap, Mr Hamilton of the marines, and the surgeon, upon the
+island. I had all along been in the dark as to the turn this affair would
+take; and not in the least suspecting but that it was determined Captain
+Cheap should be taken with us, readily embarked under that persuasion; but
+when I found that this design, which was so seriously carried on to the
+last, was suddenly dropped, I was determined, upon the first opportunity,
+to leave them, which was at this instant impossible for me to do, the long-
+boat lying at some distance off shore at anchor.
+
+We were in all eighty-one when we left the island, distributed into the
+long-boat, cutter, and barge; fifty-nine on board the first, twelve in the
+second, in the last ten. It was our purpose to put into some harbour, if
+possible, every evening, as we were in no condition to keep those terrible
+seas long; for without other assistance, our stock of provisions was no
+more than might have been consumed in a few days; our water was chiefly
+contained in a few powder-barrels; our flour was to be lengthened out by a
+mixture of sea-weed; and our other supplies depended upon the success of
+our guns and industry among the rocks. Captain Pemberton having brought on
+board his men, we weighed, but by a sudden squall of wind having split our
+foresail, we with difficulty cleared the rocks by means of our boats, bore
+away for a sandy bay on the south side of the lagoon, and anchored in ten
+fathom. The next morning we got under weigh, but it blowing hard at W. by
+N. with a great swell, put into a small bay again, well sheltered by a
+ledge of rocks without us. At this time it was thought necessary to send
+the barge away back to Cheap's bay for some spare canvas, which was
+imagined would be soon wanted. I thought this a good opportunity of
+returning, and therefore made one with those who went upon this business in
+the barge. We were no sooner clear of the long-boat, than all of those in
+the boat with me declared they had the same intention.
+
+When we arrived at the island, we were extremely welcome to Captain Cheap.
+The next day, I asked him leave to try if I could prevail upon those in the
+long-boat to give us our share of provisions: this he granted; but said, if
+we went in the barge they would certainly take her from us. I told him my
+design was to walk it, and only desired the boat might land me upon the
+main, and wait for me till I came back. I had the most dreadful journey of
+it imaginable, through thick woods and swamps all the way; but I might as
+well have spared myself that trouble, as it was to no manner of purpose,
+for they would not give me, nor any one of us that left them, a single
+ounce of provisions of any kind, I therefore returned, and after that made
+a second attempt, but all in vain. They even threatened, if we did not
+return with the barge, they would fetch her by force. It is impossible to
+conceive the distressed situation we were now in at the time of the long-
+boat's departure. I don't mention this event as the occasion of it; by
+which, if we who were left on the island experienced any alteration at all,
+it was for the better, and which, in all probability, had it been deferred,
+might have been fatal to the greatest part of us; but at this time the
+subsistence on which we had hitherto depended chiefly, which was the shell-
+fish, were every where along shore eat up; and as to stock saved from the
+wreck, it may be guessed what the amount of that might be, when the share
+allotted to the captain, Lieutenant Hamilton, and the surgeon, was no more
+than six pieces of beef, as many of pork, and ninety pounds of flour. As to
+myself and those that left the long-boat, it was the least revenge they
+thought they could take of us to withhold our provision from us, though at
+the same time it was hard and unjust. For a day or two after our return
+there was some little pittance dealt out to us, yet it was upon the foot of
+favour; and we were soon left to our usual industry for a farther supply.
+This was now exerted to very little purpose, for the reason before
+assigned; to which may be added, the wreck was now blown up, all her upper
+works gone, and no hopes of any valuable driftage from her for the future.
+A weed called slaugh, fried in the tallow of some candles we had saved, and
+wild sellery, were our only fare, by which our strengths was so much
+impaired, that we could scarcely crawl. It was my misfortune too to labour
+under a severe flux, by which, I was reduced to a very feeble state; so
+that, in attempting to traverse the rocks in search of shell-fish, I fell
+from one into very deep water, and with difficulty saved my life by
+swimming.
+
+As the captain was now freed, by the departure of the long-boat, from the
+riotous applications, menaces, and disturbance of an unruly crew, and left
+at liberty to follow the plan he had resolved upon, of going northward, he
+began to think seriously of putting it in execution, in order to which, a
+message was sent to the deserters, who had seated themselves on the other
+side of the neighbouring lagoon, to sound them, whether they were inclined
+to join the captain in his undertaking, and if they were, to bring them
+over to him. For this set, the party gone off in the long-boat had left an
+half-allowance proportion of the common stock of provision. These men, upon
+the proposal, readily agreed to join their commander; and being conducted
+to him, increased our number to twenty. The boats which remained in our
+possession to carry off all these people were only the barge and yawl, two
+very crazy bottoms; the broadside of the last was entirely out, and the
+first had suffered much in a variety of bad weather she had gone through,
+and was much out of repair. And now our carpenter was gone from us, we had
+no remedy for these misfortunes but the little skill we had gained from
+him. However, we made tolerable shift to patch up the boats for our
+purpose. In the height of our distresses, when hunger, which seems to
+include and absorb all others, was most prevailing, we were cheered with
+the appearance once more of our friendly Indians, as we thought, from whom
+we hoped for some relief; but as the consideration was wanting for which
+alone they would part with their commodities, we were not at all benefited
+by their stay, which was very short. The little reserve too of flour made
+by the captain for our sea-stock when we should leave the island, was now
+diminished by theft: the thieves, who were three of our men, were however
+soon discovered, and two of them apprehended, but the third made his escape
+to the woods. Considering the pressing state of our necessities, this theft
+was looked upon as a most heinous crime, and therefore required an
+extraordinary punishment: accordingly, the captain ordered these
+delinquents to be severely whipped, and then to be banished to an island at
+some distance from us; but before this latter part of the sentence could be
+put in execution, one of them fled, but the other was put alone upon a
+barren island, which afforded not the least shelter: however, we, in
+compassion, and contrary to order, patched him up a bit of a hut and
+kindled him a fire, and then left the poor wretch to shift for himself. In
+two or three days after, going to the island in our boat with some little
+refreshment, such as our miserable circumstances would admit of, and with
+an intent of bringing him back, we found him dead and stiff. I was now
+reduced to the lowest condition by my illness, which was increased by the
+vile stuff I eat, when we were favoured by a fair day, a thing very
+extraordinary in this climate. We instantly took the advantage of it, and
+once more visited the last remains of the wreck, her bottom. Here our pains
+were repaid with the great good fortune of hooking up three casks of beef,
+which were brought safe to shore. This providential supply could not have
+happened at a more seasonable time than now, when we were afflicted with
+the greatest dearth we had ever experienced, and the little strength we had
+remaining was to be exerted in our endeavours to leave the island.
+Accordingly we soon found a remedy for our sickness, which was nothing but
+the effects of famine, and were greatly restored by food. The provision was
+equally distributed among us all, and served us for the remainder of our
+stay here.
+
+We began to grow extremely impatient to leave the island, as the days were
+now nearly at their longest, and about Midsummer in these parts; but as to
+the weather, there seems to be little difference in a difference of
+seasons. Accordingly, on the 15th of December, the day being tolerable, we
+told Captain Cheap we thought it a fine opportunity to run across the bay.
+But he first desired two or three of us to accompany him to our place of
+observation, the top of Mount Misery, when, looking through his
+perspective, he observed to us that the sea ran very high without. However,
+this had no weight with the people, who were desirous, at all events, to be
+gone. I should here observe, that Captain Cheap's plan was, if possible, to
+get to the island of Chiloe, and if we found any vessel there, to board her
+immediately and cut her out. This he might certainly have done with ease,
+had it been his good fortune to get round with the boats.
+
+We now launched both boats, and got every thing on board of them as quick
+as possible. Captain Cheap, the surgeon, and myself, were in the barge with
+nine men, and, Lieutenant Hamilton and Mr Campbell in the yawl with six. I
+steered the barge, and Mr Campbell the yawl; but we had not been two hours
+at sea before the wind shifted more to the westward and began to blow very
+hard, and the sea ran extremely high, so that we could no longer keep our
+heads towards the cape or headland we had designed for. This cape we had
+had a view of, in one of the intervals of fair weather during our abode on
+the island, from Mount Misery; and it seemed to be distant between twenty
+and thirty leagues from us. We were now obliged to bear away right before
+the wind. Though the yawl was not far from us, we could see nothing of her,
+except now and then upon the top of a mountainous sea. In both the boats
+the men were obliged to sit as close as possible, to receive the seas on
+their backs, to prevent their filling us, which was what we every moment
+expected. We were obliged to throw every thing overboard to lighten the
+boats, all our beef, and even the grapnel, to prevent sinking. Night was
+coming on, and we were running on a lee-shore fast, where the sea broke in
+a frightful manner. Not one amongst us imagined it possible for boats to
+live in such a sea. In this situation, as we neared the shore, expecting to
+be beat to pieces by the first breaker, we perceived a small opening
+between the rocks, which we stood for, and found a very narrow passage
+between them, which brought us into a harbour for the boats, as calm and
+smooth as a mill-pond. The yawl had got in before us, and our joy was great
+at meeting again after so unexpected a deliverance. Here we secured the
+boats, and ascended a rock.
+
+It rained excessively hard all the first part of the night, and was
+extremely cold; and though we had not a dry thread about us, and no wood
+could be found for firing, we were obliged to pass the night in that
+uncomfortable situation, without any covering, shivering in our wet
+clothes. The frost coming on with the morning, it was impossible for any of
+us to get a moment's sleep; and having flung overboard our provision the
+day before, there being no prospect of finding any thing to eat on this
+coast, in the morning we pulled out of the cove, but found so great a sea
+without, that we could make but little of it. After tugging all day,
+towards night we put in among some small islands, landed upon one of them,
+and found it a mere swamp. As the weather was the same, we passed this
+night much as we had done the preceding; sea-tangle was all we could get to
+eat at first, but the next day we had better luck; the surgeon got a goose,
+and we found materials for a good fire.
+
+We were confined here three or four days, the weather all that time proving
+so bad that we could not put out. As soon as it grew moderate, we left this
+place and shaped our course to the northward; and perceiving a large
+opening between very high land and a low point, we steered for it, and when
+got that length, found a large bay, down which we rowed, flattering
+ourselves there might be a passage that way; but towards night we came to
+the bottom of the bay, and finding no outlet, we were obliged to return the
+same way we came, having found nothing the whole day to alleviate our
+hunger.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+
+Occurrences on our Voyage.--We encounter bad Weather and various Dangers
+and Distresses.--Leave a Part of our Crew behind on a desert Shore.--A
+strange Cemetry discovered.--Narrow Escape from Wreck.--Return to Mount
+Misery.--We are visited by a Chanos Indian Cacique, who talks Spanish, with
+whom we again take our Departure from the Island.
+
+
+Next night we put into a little cove, which, from the great quantity of red
+wood found there, we called Red-wood Cove. Leaving this place in the
+morning, we had the wind southerly, blowing fresh, by which we made much
+way that day to the northward. Towards evening we were in with a pretty
+large island. Putting ashore on it, we found it clothed with the finest
+trees we had ever seen, their stems running up to a prodigious height,
+without knot or branch, and as straight as cedars; the leaf of these trees
+resembles the myrtle leaf, only somewhat larger. I have seen trees larger
+than these in circumference on the coast of Guinea, and there only; but for
+a length of stem, which gradually tapered, I have no where met with any to
+compare to them. The wood was of a hard substance, and if not too heavy,
+would have made good masts; the dimensions of some of these trees being
+equal to a main-mast of a first-rate man of war. The shore was covered with
+drift wood of a very large size, most of it cedar, which makes a brisk
+fire; but is so subject to snap and fly, that when we waked in the morning,
+after a sound sleep, we found our clothes singed in many places with the
+sparks, and covered with splinters.
+
+The next morning being calm, we rowed out, but as soon as clear of the
+island, we found a great swell from the westward; we rowed to the bottom of
+a very large bay which was to the northward of us, the land very low, and
+we were in hopes of finding some inlet through, but did not, so kept along
+shore to the westward. This part, which I take to be above fifty leagues
+from Wager Island, is the very bottom of the large bay it lies in. Here was
+the only passage to be found, which, if we could by any means have got
+information of it, would have saved us much fruitless labour. Of this
+passage I shall have occasion to say more hereafter.
+
+Having at this time an off-shore wind, we kept the wind close on board till
+we came to a head-land: it was near night before we got abreast of the
+head-land, and opening it discovered a very large bay to the northward, and
+another head-land to the westward, at a great distance. We endeavoured to
+cut short our passage to it by crossing, which is very seldom to be
+effected in these overgrown seas by boats; and this we experienced now, for
+the wind springing up, and beginning to blow fresh, we were obliged to put
+back towards the first head-land, into a small cove, just big enough to
+shelter the two boats. Here an accident happened that alarmed us much.
+After securing our boats, we climbed up a rock scarcely large enough to
+contain our numbers: having nothing to eat, we betook ourselves to our
+usual receipt for hunger, which was going to sleep. We accordingly made a
+fire, and stowed ourselves round it as well as we could, but two of our men
+being incommoded for want of room, went a little way from us into a small
+nook, over which a great cliff hung, and served them for a canopy.
+
+In the middle of the night we were awakened with a terrible rambling, which
+we apprehended to be nothing less than the shock of an earthquake, which we
+had before experienced in these parts; and this conjecture we had reason to
+think not ill founded, upon hearing hollow groans and cries as of men half
+swallowed up. We immediately got up, and ran to the place from whence the
+cries came, and then we were put out of all doubt as to the opinion we had
+formed of this accident, for here we found the two men almost buried under
+loose stones and earth; but upon a little farther enquiry, we were
+undeceived as to the cause we had imputed this noise to, which we found to
+be occasioned by the sudden giving way of the impending cliff, which fell a
+little beyond our people, carrying trees and rocks with it and loose earth,
+the latter of which fell in part on our men, whom we with some pains
+rescued from their uneasy situation, from which they escaped with some
+bruises.
+
+The next morning we got out early, and the wind being westerly, rowed the
+whole day for the head-land we had seen the night before; but when we had
+got that length, could find no harbour, but were obliged to go into a sandy
+bay, and lay the whole night upon our oars, and a most dreadful one it
+proved, blowing and raining very hard. Here we were so pinched with hunger,
+that we eat the shoes off our feet, which consisted of raw seal-skin. In
+the morning we got out of the bay, but the incessant foul weather had
+overcome us, and we began to be indifferent as to what befel us; and the
+boats in the night making into a bay, we nearly lost the yawl, a breaker
+having filled her and driven her ashore upon the beach. This, by some of
+our accounts, was Christmas-day; but our accounts had so often been
+interrupted by our distresses, that there was no depending upon them. Upon
+seeing the yawl in this imminent danger, the barge stood off and went into
+another bay to the northward of it, where it was smoother lying; but there
+was no possibility of getting on shore. In the night the yawl joined us
+again.
+
+The next day was so bad, that we despaired reaching the head-land, so rowed
+down the bay in hopes of getting some seal, as that animal had been seen
+the day before, but met with no success; so returned to the same bay we had
+been in the night before, where the surf having abated somewhat, we went
+ashore and picked up a few shell-fish. In the morning we got on board
+early, and ran along shore to the westward for about three leagues, in
+order to get round a cape, which was the westernmost land we could see. It
+blew very hard, and there ran such a sea, that we heartily wished ourselves
+back again, and accordingly made the best of our way for that bay which we
+had left in the morning; but before we could reach it night came on, and we
+passed a most dismal one, lying upon our oars.
+
+The weather continuing very bad, we put in for the shore in the morning,
+where we found nothing but tangle and sea-weed. We now passed some days
+roving about for provisions, as the weather was too bad to make another
+attempt to get round the cape as yet. We found some fine lagoons towards
+the head of the bay, and in them killed some seal, and got a good quantity
+of shell-fish, which was a great relief to us. We now made a second attempt
+to double the cape; but when we got the length of it, and passed the first
+head-land, for it consists of three of an equal height, we got into a sea
+that was horrid, for it ran all in heaps like the Race of Portland, but
+much worse. We were happy to put back to the old place, with little hopes
+of ever getting round this cape.
+
+Next day, the weather proving very bad, all hands went ashore to procure
+some sustenance, except two in each boat, which were left as boat-keepers:
+this office we took by turns, and it was now my lot to be upon this duty
+with another man. The yawl lay within us at a grapnel; in the night it blew
+very hard, and a great sea tumbled in upon the shore; but being extremely
+fatigued, we in the boats went to sleep: notwithstanding, however, I was at
+last awakened by the uncommon motion of the boat, and the roaring of the
+breakers every where about us. At the same time I heard a shrieking, like
+to that of persons in distress; I looked out, and saw the yawl canted
+bottom upwards by a sea, and soon afterwards disappeared. One of our men,
+whose name was William Rose, a quarter-master, was drowned; the other was
+thrown ashore by the surf, with his head buried in the sand, but by the
+immediate assistance of the people on shore, was saved. As for us in the
+barge, we expected the same fate every moment, for the sea broke a long way
+without us. However, we got her head to it, and hove up our grapnel, or
+should rather say kellick, which we had made to serve in the room of our
+grapnel, hove overboard some time before to lighten the boat. By this means
+we used our utmost efforts to pull her without the breakers some way, and
+then let go our kellick again. Here we lay all the next day in a great sea,
+not knowing what would be our fate. To add to our mortification, we could
+see our companions in tolerable plight ashore, eating seal, while we were
+starving with hunger and cold. For this month past we had not known what it
+was to have a dry thread about us.
+
+The next day being something more moderate, we ventured in with the barge
+as near as we could to the shore, and our companions threw us some seals
+liver, which having eat greedily, we were seized with excessive sickness,
+which affected us so much that our skin peeled off from, head to foot.
+
+Whilst the people were on shore here, Mr Hamilton met with a large seal or
+sea-lion, and fired a brace of balls into him, upon which the animal turned
+upon him open-mouthed; but presently fixing his bayonet, he thrust it down
+its throat, with, a good part of the barrel of the gun, which the creature
+bit in two seemingly with as much ease as if it had been a twig.
+Notwithstanding the wounds it received, it eluded all farther efforts to
+kill it, and got clear off.
+
+I call this animal a large seal or sea-lion, because it resembles a seal in
+many particulars; but then it exceeds it so much in size, as to be
+sufficiently determined, by that distinction only, to be of another
+species. Mr Walter, in Lord Anson's voyage, has given a particular
+description of those which are seen about Juan Fernandes; but they have in
+other climates different appearances as well as different qualities, as we
+had occasion to observe in this and a late voyage I made. However, as so
+much already has been said of the sea-lion, I shall only mention two
+peculiarities, one relative to its appearance, and the other to its
+properties of action, which distinguish it from those described by him.
+Those I saw were without that snout or trunk hanging below the end of the
+upper jaw; but then the males were furnished with a large shaggy mane,
+which gave them a most formidable appearance. And, whereas, he says those
+he saw were unwieldy and easily destroyed, we found some, on the contrary,
+that lay at a mile's distance from the water, which came down upon us when
+disturbed with such impetuosity, that it was as much as we could do to get
+out of their way; and, when attacked, would turn upon us with, great
+agility.
+
+Having lost the yawl, and being too many for the barge to carry off, we
+were compelled to leave four of our men behind. They were all marines, who
+seemed to have no great objection to the determination made with regard to
+them, so exceedingly disheartened and worn out were they with the
+distresses and dangers they had already gone through. And, indeed, I
+believe it would have been a matter of indifference to the greatest part of
+the rest, whether they should embark or take their chance. The captain
+distributed to these poor fellows arms and ammunition, and some other
+necessaries. When we parted, they stood upon the beach, giving us three
+cheers, and called out, God bless the King! We saw them a little after
+setting out upon their forlorn hope, and helping one another over a hideous
+tract of rocks; but considering the difficulties attending this only way of
+travelling left them, for the woods are impracticable, from their thickness
+and the deep swamps every where to be met in them; considering too that the
+coast here is rendered so inhospitable by the heavy seas that are
+constantly tumbling upon it, as not to afford even a little shell-fish, it
+is probable that all met with a miserable end.
+
+We rowed along shore to the westward in order to make one more attempt to
+double the cape; when abreast of the first head-land, there ran such a sea
+that we expected every moment the boat would go down. But as the
+preservation of life had now in a great measure lost its actuating
+principle upon us, we still kept pushing through it, till we opened a bay
+to the northward. In all my life I never saw so dreadful a sea as drove in
+here; it began to break at more than half a mile from the shore. Perceiving
+now that it was impossible for any boat to get round, the men lay upon
+their oars till the boat was very near the breakers, the mountainous swell
+that then ran heaving her in at a great rate. I thought it was their
+intention to put an end to their lives and misery at once, but nobody spoke
+for some time. At last Captain Cheap told them they must either perish
+immediately, or pull stoutly for it to get off the shore, but they might do
+as they pleased. They chose, however, to exert themselves a little, and
+after infinite difficulty got round the head-land again, giving up all
+thoughts of making any further attempt to double the cape. It was night
+before we could get back to the bay, where we were compelled to leave four
+of our men, in order to save, if possible, the remainder; for we must all
+have certainly perished, if more than sixteen had been crowded into so
+small a boat: this bay we named Marine Bay. When we had returned to this
+bay, we found the surf ran so high, that we were obliged to lay upon our
+oars all night; and it was now resolved to go back to Wager's island, there
+to linger out a miserable life, as we had not the least prospect of
+returning home.
+
+But before we set out, in consequence of this resolution, it was necessary,
+if possible, to get some little stock of seal to support us in a passage,
+upon which, whenever we might put in, we were not likely to meet with any
+supply. Accordingly, it was determined to go up that lagoon, in which, we
+had before got some seal, to provide ourselves with some more, but we did
+not leave the bay till we had made some search after the unhappy marines we
+had left on shore. Could we have found them, we had now agreed to take them
+on board again, though it would have been the certain destruction of us
+all. This, at another time, would have been mere madness; but we were now
+resigned to our fate, which we none of us thought far off; however, there
+was nothing to be seen of them, and no traces but a musket on the beach.
+
+Upon returning up the lagoon, we were so fortunate as to kill some seal,
+which we boiled and laid in the boat for sea-stock. While we were ranging
+along shore in detached parties in quest of this and whatever other eatable
+might come in our way, our surgeon, who was then by himself, discovered a
+pretty large hole, which seemed to lead to some den or repository within
+the rocks. It was not so rude or natural, but that there were some signs of
+its having been cleared and made more accessible by industry. The surgeon
+for some time hesitated whether he should venture in, from his uncertainty
+as to the reception he might meet with from any inhabitant; but his
+curiosity getting the better of his fears, he determined to go in, which he
+did upon his hands and knees, as the passage was too low for him to enter
+otherwise.
+
+After having proceeded a considerable way thus, he arrived at a spacious
+chamber, but whether hollowed out by hands, or natural, he could not be
+positive. The light into this chamber was conveyed through a hole at the
+top; in the midst was a kind of bier, made of sticks laid crossways,
+supported by props of about five feet in height. Upon this bier five or six
+bodies were extended, which, in appearance, had been deposited there a long
+time, but had suffered no decay or diminution. They were without covering,
+and the flesh of their bodies was become perfectly dry and hard, which
+whether done by any art or secret the savages may be possessed of, or
+occasioned by any drying virtue in the air of the cave, could not be
+guessed. Indeed, the surgeon finding nothing there to eat, which was his
+chief inducement for his creeping into this hole, did not amuse himself
+with long disquisitions, or make that accurate examination which he would
+have done at another time; but crawling out as he came in, he went and told
+the first he met of what he had seen. Some had the curiosity to go in
+likewise.
+
+I had forgot to mention that there was another range of bodies deposited in
+the same manner upon another platform under the bier. Probably this was the
+burial-place of their great men called Caciques; but from whence they could
+be brought we were utterly at a loss to conceive, there being no traces of
+any Indian settlement hereabout. We had seen no savages since we left the
+island, or observed any marks in the coves or bays to the northward where
+we had touched, such as of fire-places or old wig-wams, which they never
+fail of leaving behind them; and it is very probable, from the violent seas
+that are always beating upon this coast, its deformed aspect, and the very
+swampy soil that every where borders upon it, that it is little frequented.
+
+We now crossed the first bay for the head-land we left on Christmas-day,
+much dejected; for under our former sufferings we were in some measure
+supported with the hopes, that as we advanced, however little, they were so
+much the nearer their termination; but now our prospect was dismal and
+dispiriting indeed, as we had the same difficulties and dangers to
+encounter, not only without any flattering views to lessen them, but under
+the aggravating circumstance of their leading to an inevitable and
+miserable death; for we could not possibly conceive that the fate of
+starving could be avoided by any human means, upon, that desolate island we
+were returning to. The shell-fish, which was the only subsistence that
+island had hitherto afforded in any measure, was exhausted; and the Indians
+had shewn themselves so little affected by the common incitements of
+compassion, that we had no hopes to build upon any impressions of that sort
+in them. They had already refused to barter their dogs with us, for want of
+a valuable commodity on our side; so that it is wonderful we did not give
+ourselves up to despondency, and lay aside all farther attempts; but we
+were supported by that invisible Power, who can make the most untoward
+circumstances subservient to his gracious purposes.
+
+At this time our usual bad weather attended us; the night too set in long
+before we could reach the cove we before had taken shelter in, so that we
+were obliged to keep the boat's head to the sea all night, the sea every
+where astern of us running over hideous breakers. In the morning, we
+designed standing over for that island in which we had observed those
+strait and lofty trees before-mentioned, and which Captain Cheap named
+Montrose Island; but as soon as we opened the head-land to the westward of
+us, a sudden squall took the boat, and very near overset her. We were
+instantly full of water; but by baling with our hats and hands, and any
+thing that would hold water, we with difficulty freed her. Under this
+alarming circumstance, we found it advisable to return back and put in to
+the cove which the night before we were prevented getting into. We were
+detained here two or three days by exceeding bad weather, so that had we
+not fortunately provided ourselves with some seal, we must have starved,
+for this place afforded us nothing.
+
+At length we reached Montrose Island. This is by much the best and
+pleasantest spot we had seen in this part of the world, though it has
+nothing on it eatable but some berries, which resemble goose-berries in
+flavour: they are of a black hue, and grow in swampy ground; and the bush
+or tree that bears them, is much taller than that of our goose berries. We
+remained here some time, living upon these berries and the remainder of our
+seal, which was now grown quite rotten. Our two or three first attempts to
+put out from this island were without success, the tempestuous weather
+obliging us to put back again. One of our people was much inclined to
+remain here, thinking it at least as good a place as Wager's Island to end
+his days upon; but he was obliged by the rest to go off with them. We had
+not been long out before it began to blow a storm of wind; and the mist
+came on so thick, that we could not see the land, and were at a loss which
+way to steer; but we heard the sea, which ran exceedingly high, breaking
+near us, upon which we immediately hauled aft the sheet, and hardly
+weathered the breakers by a boat's length. At the same time we shipped a
+sea that nearly filled us; it struck us with that violence as to throw me
+and one or two more down into the bottom of the boat, where we were half
+drowned before we could get up again. This was one of the most
+extraordinary escapes we had in the course of this expedition; for Captain
+Cheap and every one else had entirely given themselves up for lost.
+However, it pleased God that we got that evening into Red-wood Cove, where
+the weather continued so bad all night we could keep no fire in to dry
+ourselves with; but there being no other alternative for us but to stay
+here and starve, or put to sea again, we chose the latter, and put out in
+the morning again, though the weather was very little mended.
+
+In three or four days after, we arrived at our old station, Wager's Island,
+but in such a miserable plight, that though we thought our condition upon
+setting out would not admit of any additional circumstance of misery, yet
+it was to be envied in comparison of what we now suffered, so worn and
+reduced were we by fatigue and hunger, having eat nothing for some days but
+sea-weed and tangle. Upon this expedition, we had been out, by our account,
+just two months; in which we had rounded, backwards and forwards, the great
+bay formed to the northward by that high land we had observed from Mount
+Misery.
+
+The first thing we did upon our arrival was to secure the barge, as this
+was our sole dependence for any relief that might offer by sea; which done,
+we repaired to our huts, which formed a kind of village or street,
+consisting of several irregular habitations, some of which being covered by
+a kind of brush-wood thatch, afforded tolerable shelter against the
+inclemency of the weather. Among these, there was one which we observed
+with some surprise to be nailed up. We broke it open, and found some iron-
+work, picked out with much pains from those pieces of the wreck which, were
+driven ashore. We concluded from hence, that the Indians who had been here
+in our absence were not of that tribe with which we had some commerce
+before, who seemed to set no value upon iron, but from some other quarter;
+and must have had communication with the Spaniards, from whom they had
+learned the value and use of that commodity.
+
+Thieving from strangers is a commendable talent among savages in general,
+and bespeaks an address which they much admire; though the strictest
+honesty with regard to the property of each other is observed among them.
+There is no doubt but they ransacked all our houses, but the men had taken
+care before they went off in the long-boat to strip them of their most
+valuable furniture, that is, the bales of cloth used for lining, and
+converted them into trowsers and watch-coats. Upon farther search, we
+found, thrown aside in the bushes at the back of one of the huts, some
+pieces of seal in a very putrid condition, which, however, our stomachs
+were far from loathing. The next business which the people set about very
+seriously, was to proceed to Mount Misery, and bury the corpse of the
+murdered person mentioned to have been discovered there some little time
+after our being cast away; for to the neglect of this necessary tribute to
+that unfortunate person the men assigned all their ill success upon the
+late expedition.
+
+That common people in general are addicted to superstitious conceits, is an
+observation founded on experience, and the reason is evident; but I cannot
+allow that common seamen are more so than others of the lower class. In the
+most enlightened ages of antiquity, we find it to have been the popular
+opinion, that the spirits of the dead were not at rest till their bodies
+were interred; and that they did not cease to haunt and trouble those who
+had neglected this duty to the departed. This is still believed by the
+vulgar in most countries; and in our men this persuasion was much
+heightened by the melancholy condition they were reduced to, and was
+farther confirmed by an occurrence which happened some little time before
+we went upon our last expedition. One night we were alarmed with a strange
+cry, which resembled that of a man drowning. Many of us ran out of our huts
+towards the place from whence the noise proceeded, which was not far off
+shore, where we could perceive, but not distinctly, (for it was then
+moonlight) an appearance like that of a man swimming half out of water. The
+noise that this creature uttered was so unlike that of any animal they had
+heard before, that it made a great impression upon the men; and they
+frequently recalled this apparition at the time of their distresses, with
+reflections on the neglect of the office they were now fulfilling.
+
+We were soon driven again to the greatest straits for want of something to
+subsist upon, by the extreme bad weather that now set in upon us. Wild
+sellery was all we could procure, which raked our stomachs instead of
+assuaging our hunger. That dreadful and last resource of men, in not much
+worse circumstances than ours, of consigning one man to death for the
+support of the rest, began to be mentioned in whispers; and indeed there
+were some among as who, by eating what they found raw, were become little
+better than cannibals. But fortunately for us, and opportunely to prevent
+this horrid proceeding, Mr Hamilton at this time found some rotten pieces
+of beef cast up by the sea at some miles distance from the huts, which he,
+though a temptation which few would have resisted in parallel
+circumstances, scorned to conceal from the rest, but generously distributed
+among us.
+
+A few days after, the mystery of the nailing up of the hut, and what had
+been doing by the Indians upon the island in our absence, was partly
+explained to us; for about the 15th day after our return, there came a
+party of Indians to the island in two canoes, who were not a little
+surprised to find us here again. Among these, was an Indian of the tribe of
+the Chonos, who live in the neighbourhood of Chiloe.[117] He talked the
+Spanish language, but with that savage accent which renders it almost
+unintelligible to any but those who are adepts in that language. He was
+likewise a cacique, or leading man of his tribe, which authority was
+confirmed to him by the Spaniards; for he carried the usual badge and mark
+of distinction by which the Spaniards and their dependants hold their
+military and civil employments, which is a stick with a silver head. These
+badges, of which the Indians are very vain, at once serve to retain the
+cacique in the strongest attachment to the Spanish government, and give him
+greater weight with his own dependants: yet, withal, he is the merest
+slave, and has not one thing he can call his own.
+
+This report of our shipwreck (as we supposed) having reached the Chonos, by
+means of the intermediate tribes, which handed it to one another from those
+Indians who first visited us, this cacique was either sent to learn the
+truth of the rumour, or, having first got the intelligence, set out with a
+view of making some advantage of the wreck, and appropriating such iron-
+work as he could gather from it to his own use; for that metal is become
+very valuable to those savages, since their commerce with the Spaniards has
+taught them to apply it to several purposes. But as the secreting any thing
+from a rapacious Spanish rey or governor (even an old rusty nail) by any of
+their Indian dependants, is a very dangerous offence, he was careful to
+conceal the little prize he had made till he could conveniently carry it
+away; for in order to make friends of these savages, we had left their
+hoard untouched.
+
+Our surgeon, Mr Elliot, being master of a few Spanish words, made himself
+so far understood by the cacique, as to let him know that our intention was
+to reach some of the Spanish settlements if we could; that we were
+unacquainted with the best and safest way, and what track was most likely
+to afford us subsistence in our journey; promising, if he would undertake
+to conduct us in the barge, he should have it and every thing in it for his
+trouble as soon as it had served our present occasions. To these conditions
+the cacique, after much persuasion, at length agreed. Accordingly, having
+made the best preparation we could, we embarked on board the barge to the
+number of fifteen, including the cacique, whose name was Martin, and his
+servant Emanuel. We were, indeed, sixteen when we returned from our last
+fruitless attempt to get off the island, but we had buried two since that,
+who perished with hunger; and a marine, having committed theft, ran away to
+avoid the punishment his crime deserved, and hid himself in the woods,
+since which he was never heard of. We now put off, accompanied with the two
+Indian canoes, in one of which was a savage with his two wives, who had an
+air of dignity superior to the rest, and was handsome in his person. He had
+his hut, during his stay with us, separate from the other Indians, who
+seemed to pay him extraordinary respect; but in two or three nights, these
+Indians, being independent of the Spaniards, and living somewhere to the
+southward of our Chonos guide, left us to proceed on our journey by
+ourselves.
+
+The first night we lay at an island destitute of all refreshment, where
+having found some shelter for our boat and made ourselves a fire, we slept
+by it. The next night we were more unfortunate, though our wants were
+increasing, for, having run to the westward of Montrose Island, we found no
+shelter for the barge, but were under the necessity of lying upon our oars,
+suffering the most extreme pangs of hunger. The next day brought us to the
+bottom of a great bay, where the Indian guide had left his family, a wife
+and two children, in a hut. Here we staid two or three days, during which
+we were constantly employed in ranging along shore in quest of shell-fish.
+
+
+[117] Chiloe is an island on the western coast of America, situated in 42°
+    40 of S. latitude, and the southernmost settlement under the Spanish
+    jurisdiction on that coast.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+
+Navigation of the River.--One of our Men dies from Fatigue.--Inhumanity of
+the Captain.--Description of our Passage through a horrible and desolate
+Country.--Our Conductor leaves us, and a Party of our Men desert with the
+Boat.--Dreadful Situation of the Remainder.--The Cacique returns.--Account
+of our Journey Overland.--Kindness of two Indian Women.--Description of the
+Indian Mode of Fishing.--Cruel Treatment of my Indian Benefactress by her
+Husband.
+
+
+We now again proceeded on our voyage, having received on board the family
+of our guide, who conducted us to a river, the stream of which was so
+rapid, that, after our almost efforts from morning to evening, we gained
+little upon the current, and at last were obliged to desist from our
+attempt, and return. I had hitherto steered the boat, but one of our men
+sinking under the fatigue, expired soon after, which obliged me to take the
+oar in his room, and row against this heart-breaking stream. Whilst I was
+thus employed, one of our men, whose name was John Bosman, though hitherto
+the stoutest man among us, fell from his seat under the thwarts,
+complaining that his strength was quite exhausted for want of food, and
+that he should die very shortly. As he lay in this condition, he would
+every now and then break out in the most pathetic wishes for some little
+sustenance, that two or three monthfuls might be the means of saving his
+life. The captain at this time had a large piece of boiled seal by him, and
+was the only one that was provided with any thing like a meal; but we were
+become so hardened against the impressions of others sufferings by our own,
+so familiarized to scenes of this and every other kind of misery, that the
+poor man's dying entreaties were vain. I sat next to him when he dropped,
+and having a few dried shell-fish (about five or six) in my pocket, from
+time to time put one in his mouth, which served only to prolong his pains;
+from which, however, soon after my little supply failed, he was released by
+death. For this, and another man I mentioned a little before to have
+expired under the like circumstances, when we returned from this
+unsuccessful enterprize, we made a grave in the sands.
+
+It would have redounded greatly to the tenderness and humanity of Captain
+Cheap, if at this time he had remitted somewhat of that attention he shewed
+to self-preservation, which is hardly allowable but where the consequence
+of relieving others must be immediately and manifestly fatal to ourselves;
+but I would venture to affirm, that in these last affecting exigencies, as
+well as some others, a sparing perhaps adequate to the emergency, might
+have been admitted consistently with a due regard to his own necessities.
+The captain had better opportunities of recruiting his stock than any of
+us; for his rank was considered by the Indians a reason for supplying him
+when he would not find a bit for us. Upon the evening of the day in which
+these disasters happened, the captain producing a large piece of boiled
+seal, suffered no one to partake with him but the surgeon, who was the only
+man in favour at this time. We did not expect, indeed, any relief from him
+in our present condition, for we had a few small mussels and herbs to eat;
+but the men could not help expressing the greatest indignation at his
+neglect of the deceased, saying, that he deserved to be deserted by the
+rest for his savage behaviour.
+
+The endeavouring to pass up this river was for us, who had so long
+struggled with hunger, a most unseasonable attempt, by which we were
+harassed to a degree that threatened to be fatal to more of us; but our
+guide, without any respect to the condition our hardships had reduced us
+to, was very solicitous for us to go that way, which possibly he had gone
+before in light canoes, but for such a boat as ours, was impracticable. We
+conceived, therefore, at that time, that this was some short cut, which was
+to bring us forward in our voyage; but we had reason to think afterwards,
+that the greater probability there was of his getting the barge, which was
+the wages of his undertaking, safe to his settlement by this, rather than
+another course, was his motive for preferring it to the way we took
+afterwards, where there was a carrying place of considerable length, over
+which it would have been impossible to have carried our boat.
+
+The country hereabouts wears the most uncouth, desolate, and rugged aspect
+imaginable; it is so circumstanced as to discourage the most sanguine
+adventurers from attempts to settle in it: Were it for no other reason than
+the constant heavy rains, or rather torrents, which pour down here, and the
+vast sea and surf which the prevailing westerly winds impel upon this
+coast, it must be rendered inhospitable. All entrance into the woods is not
+only extremely difficult, but hazardous, not from any assaults you are
+likely to meet with from wild beasts, for even these could hardly find
+convenient harbour here, but from the deep swamp, which is the reigning
+soil of this country, and in which the woods may be said rather to float
+than grow; so that, except upon a range of deformed broken rocks which form
+the sea-coast, the traveller cannot find sound footing any where. With this
+unpromising scene before us we were now setting out in search of food,
+which nothing but the most pressing instances of hunger could induce us to
+do: We had, indeed, the young Indian servant to our cacique for our
+conductor, who was left by him to show us where the shell-fish was most
+plenty. The cacique was gone with the rest of his family in the canoe, with
+a view of getting some seal, upon a trip which would detain him from us
+three or four days.
+
+After searching the coast some time with very little success, we began to
+think of returning to the barge; but six of the men, with the Indian,
+having advanced some few paces before the officers, got into the boat
+first, which they had no sooner done than they put off and left us, to
+return no more. And now all the difficulties we had hitherto endured seemed
+light in comparison of what we expected to suffer from this treachery of
+our men, who, with the boat, had taken away every thing that might be the
+means of preserving our lives. The little clothes we had saved from the
+wreck, our muskets and ammunition, were gone, except a little powder, which
+must be preserved for kindling fires, and one gun which I had, and was now
+become useless for want of ammunition; and all these wants were now come
+upon us at a time when we could not be worse situated for supplying them.
+Yet under these dismal and forlorn appearances was our delivery now
+preparing; and from these hopeless circumstances were we to draw hereafter
+an instance scarce to be paralleled, of the unsearchable ways of
+Providence.
+
+It was at that time little suspected by us, that the barge, in which we
+founded all our hopes of escaping from this savage coast, would certainly
+have proved the fatal cause of detaining us till we were consumed by the
+labour and hardships requisite to row her round the capes and great
+headlands; for it was impossible to carry her by land as we did the boats
+of the Indians. At present, no condition could be worse than we thought
+ours to be: There ran at this time a very high sea, which breaking with
+great fury upon this coast, made it very improbable that sustenance in any
+proportion to our wants could be found upon it; yet unpromising as this
+prospect was, and though little succour could be expected from this
+quarter, I could not help, as I strolled along shore from the rest, casting
+my eyes towards the sea. Continuing thus to look out, I thought I saw
+something now and then upon the top of a sea that looked black, which, upon
+observing still more intently, I imagined at last to be a canoe; but
+reflecting afterwards how unusual it was for Indians to venture out in so
+mountainous a sea, and at such a distance from the land, I concluded myself
+to be deceived. However, its nearer approach convinced me, beyond all
+doubt, of its being a canoe; but that it could not put in any where
+hereabouts, but intended for some other part of the coast. I ran back as
+fast as I could to my companions, and acquainted them with what I had seen.
+
+The despondency they were in would not allow them to give credit to it at
+first; but afterwards, being convinced that it was as I reported it, we
+were all in the greatest hurry to strip off some of our rags to make a
+signal withal, which we fixed upon a long pole. This had the desired
+effect: The people in the canoe seeing the signal, made towards the land at
+about two miles distance from us, for no boat could approach the land where
+we were. There they put into a small cove, sheltered by a large ledge of
+rocks without, which broke the violence of the sea. Captain Cheap and I
+walked along shore, and got to the cove about the time they landed. Here we
+found the persons arrived in this canoe to be our Indian guide and his
+wife, who had left us some days before. He would have asked us many
+questions, but neither Captain Cheap nor I understanding Spanish at that
+time, we took him along with us to the surgeon, whom we had left so ill
+that he could hardly raise himself from the ground.
+
+When the Indian began to confer with the surgeon, the first question was,
+What was become of the barge and his companions? and as he could give him
+no satisfactory answer to this question, the Indian took it for granted
+that Emanuel was murdered by us, and that he and his family ran the same
+risk; upon which he was preparing to provide for his security, by leaving
+us directly. The surgeon seeing this, did all in his power to pacify him,
+and convince him of the unreasonableness of his apprehensions, which he at
+length found means to do, by assuring him that the Indian would come to no
+harm, but that he would soon see him return safe: which providentially, and
+beyond our expectation, happened accordingly, for in a few days after,
+Emanuel, having contrived to make his escape from the people in the barge,
+returned by ways that were impassable to any creature but an Indian. All
+that we could learn from Emanuel relative to his escape was, that he took
+the first opportunity of leaving them, which was upon their putting into a
+bay somewhere to the westward.
+
+We had but one gun among us, and that was a small fowling-piece of mine; no
+ammunition but a few charges of powder I had about me; and as the Indian
+was very desirous of returning to the place where he had left his wife and
+canoe, Captain Cheap desired I would go with him and watch over him all
+night, to prevent his getting away. Accordingly I set out with him, and
+when he and his family betook themselves to rest in the little wigwam they
+had made for that purpose, I kept my station as centinel over them all
+night.
+
+The next morning Captain Cheap, Mr Hamilton, and the surgeon joined us; the
+latter, by illness, being reduced to the most feeble condition, was
+supported by Mr Hamilton and Mr Campbell. After holding some little
+consultation together, as to the best manner of proceeding in our journey,
+it was agreed, that the Indian should haul his canoe, with our assistance,
+over land, quite across the island we were then upon, and put her into a
+bay on the other side, from whence he was to go in quest of some other
+Indians by whom he expected to be joined; but as his canoe was too small to
+carry more than three or four persons, he thought it advisable to take only
+Captain Cheap and myself with him, and to leave his wife and children as
+pledges with our companions till his return.
+
+As it was matter of uncertainty whether we should ever recover the barge or
+not, which was stipulated, on our side, to become the property of the
+cacique upon his fulfilling his engagements with us; the inducements we now
+made use of to prevail upon him to proceed with us in our journey were,
+that he should have my fowling-piece, some little matters in the possession
+of Captain Cheap, and that we would use our interest to procure him some
+small pecuniary reward.
+
+We were now to set off in the canoe, in which I was to assist him in
+rowing. Accordingly, putting from this island, we rowed hard all this day
+and the next, without any thing to eat but a scrap of seal, a very small
+portion of which fell to my share. About two hours after the close of the
+day, we put ashore, where we discovered six or seven wigwams. For my part,
+my strength was so exhausted with fatigue and hunger, that it would have
+been impossible for me to have held out another day at this toilsome work.
+As soon as we landed, the Indian conducted Captain Cheap with him into a
+wigwam, but I was left to shift for myself.
+
+Thus left, I was for some time at a loss what I had best do, for knowing
+that in the variety of dispositions observable among the Indians, the surly
+and savage temper is the most prevalent, I had good reason to conclude,
+that if I obtruded myself upon them, my reception would be but indifferent.
+Necessity, however, put me upon the risk; I accordingly pushed into the
+next wigwam upon my hands and knees, for the entrance into these kind of
+buildings is too low to admit of any other manner of getting into them. To
+give a short description of these temporary houses called wigwams, may not
+be improper here, for the satisfaction of those who never saw any,
+especially as they differ somewhat from those of North America, which are
+more generally known from the numerous accounts of that country.
+
+When the Indians of this part of the world have occasion to stop any where
+in their rambles, if it be only for a night or two, the men, who take this
+business upon them, while the women are employed in much more laborious
+offices, such as diving in the sea for sea-eggs, and searching the rocks
+for shell-fish, getting fuel, &c., repair to the woods, and cutting a
+sufficient number of tall strait branches, fix them in an irregular kind of
+circle of uncertain dimensions; which having done, they bend the
+extremities of these branches so as to meet in a centre at top, where they
+bind them by a kind of woodbine called supple-jack, which they split by
+holding it in their teeth. This frame, or skeleton of a hut, is made tight
+against the weather with a covering of boughs and bark; but as the bark is
+not got without some trouble, they generally take it with them when they
+remove, putting it at the bottom of their canoes: The rest of the wigwam
+they leave standing. The fire is made in the middle of the wigwam, round
+which they sit upon boughs; and as there is no vent for the smoke besides
+the door-way, which is very low, except through some crevices which cannot
+easily be stopped, they are not a little incommoded on that account, and
+the eyes of some of them are much affected by it.
+
+But to return. In this wigwam, into which I took the liberty to introduce
+myself, I found only two women, who, upon first seeing a figure they were
+not accustomed to, and such a figure too as I then made, were struck with
+astonishment. They were sitting by a fire, to which I approached without
+any apology. However inclined I might have been to make one, my ignorance
+of their language made it impossible to attempt it. One of these women
+appeared to be young, and very handsome for an Indian; the other old, and
+as frightful as it is possible to conceive any thing in human shape to be.
+Having stared at me some little time, they both went out; and I, without
+farther ceremony, sat me down by the fire to warm myself and dry the rags I
+wore. Yet I cannot say my situation was very easy, as I expected every
+instant to see two or three men come in and thrust me out, if they did not
+deal with me in a rougher manner.
+
+Soon after, the two women came in again, having, as I supposed, conferred
+with the Indian our conductor; and, appearing to be in great good humour,
+began to chatter and laugh immoderately. Perceiving the wet and cold
+condition I was in, they seemed to have compassion on me, and the old woman
+went out and brought some wood, with which she made a good fire; but my
+hunger being impatient, I could not forbear expressing my desire that they
+would extend their hospitality a little farther, and bring me something so
+eat. They soon comprehended my meaning, and the younger beginning to
+rummage under some pieces of bark that lay in the corner of the wigwam,
+produced a fine large fish; this they presently put upon the fire to broil,
+and when it was just warm through, they made a sign for me to eat. They had
+no need to repeat the invitation; I fell to, and dispatched it in so short
+a time, that I was in hopes they would comprehend, without further tokens,
+that I was ready for another; but it was of no consequence, for their stock
+of eatables was entirely exhausted.
+
+After sitting some time in conference together, in which conversation I
+could bear no part, the women made some signs to me to lay down and go to
+sleep, first having strewed some dry boughs upon the ground. I laid myself
+down, and soon fell fast asleep; and about three or four hours after
+awaking, I found myself covered with a bit of blanket, made of the down of
+birds, which the women usually wear about their waist. The young woman, who
+had carefully covered me, whilst sleeping, with her own blanket, was lying
+close by me; the old woman lay on the other side of her. The fire was low
+and almost burnt out; but as soon as they found me awake they renewed it,
+by putting on more fuel. What I had hitherto eat served only to sharpen my
+appetite; I could not help, therefore, being earnest with them to get me
+some more victuals. Having understood my necessities, they talked together
+some little time; after which getting up, they both went out, taking with
+them a couple of dogs, which they train to assist them in fishing. After an
+hour's absence they came in trembling with cold, and their hair streaming
+with water, and brought two fish, which having broiled, they gave me the
+largest share, and then we all lay down as before to rest.
+
+In the morning, my curiosity led me to visit the neighbouring wigwams, in
+which were only one or two men, the rest of the inhabitants were all women
+and children. I then proceeded to enquire after Captain Cheap and our
+Indian guide, whom I found in the wigwam they at first occupied: The
+authority of the cacique had procured the captain no despicable
+entertainment. We could not learn what business the men, whose wives and
+children were here left behind, were gone out upon; but as they seldom or
+never go upon fishing parties (for they have no hunting here) without their
+wives, who take the most laborious part of this pursuit upon themselves, it
+is probable they were gone upon some warlike expedition, in which they use
+bows and arrows sometimes, but always the lance. This weapon they throw
+with great dexterity and force, and never stir abroad without it.
+
+About this time their return was looked for, a hearing by no means pleasant
+to me; I was therefore determined to enjoy myself as long as they were
+absent, and make the most of the good fare I was possessed of, to the
+pleasure of which I thought a little cleanliness might in some measure
+contribute; I therefore went to a brook, and taking off my shirt, which
+might be said to be alive with vermin, set myself about to wash it; which
+having done as well as I could, and hung on a bush to dry, I heard a bustle
+about the wigwams, and soon perceived that the women were preparing to
+depart, having stripped their wigwams of their bark covering, and carried
+it into their canoes. Putting on, therefore, my shirt just as it was, I
+hastened to join them, having a great desire of being present at one of
+their fishing parties.
+
+It was my lot to be put into the canoe with my two patronesses and some
+others who assisted in rowing; we were in all four canoes. After rowing
+some time, they gained such an offing as they required, where the water
+here was about eight or ten fathoms deep, and there lay upon their oars.
+And now the youngest of the two women, taking a basket in her mouth, jumped
+overboard, and diving to the bottom, continued under water an amazing time;
+when she had filled the basket with sea-eggs, she came up to the boat-side,
+and delivering it so filled to the other women in the boat, they took out
+the contents and returned it to her. The diver then, after having taken a
+short time to breathe, went down and up again with the same success, and so
+several times for the space of half an hour. It seems as if Providence had
+endued this people with a kind of amphibious nature, as the sea is the only
+source from whence almost all their subsistence is derived. This element
+too, being here very boisterous, and falling with a most heavy surf upon a
+rugged coast, very little, except some seal, is to be got any where but in
+the quiet bosom of the deep. What occasions this reflection, is the early
+propensity I had so frequently observed in the children of these savages to
+this occupation, who, even at the age of three years, might be seen
+crawling upon their hands and knees among the rocks and breakers, from
+which they would tumble themselves into the sea without regard to the cold,
+which is here often intense, and shewing no fear of the noise and roaring
+of the surf.
+
+This sea-egg is a shell-fish, from which several prickles project in all
+directions, by means whereof it removes itself from place to place. In it
+are found four or five yolks, resembling the inner divisions of an orange,
+which are of a very nutritive quality and excellent flavour.
+
+The water was at this time extremely cold, and when the divers got into the
+boats, they seemed greatly benumbed; and it is usual with them after this
+exercise, if they are near enough their wigwams, to run to the fire, to
+which presenting one side, they rub and chafe it for some time; then
+turning the other, use it in the same manner till the circulation of the
+blood is restored. This practice, if it has no worse effect, must occasion
+their being more susceptible of the impressions of cold than if they waited
+the gradual advances of their natural warmth in the open air. I leave it to
+the decision of the gentlemen of the faculty, whether this too hasty
+approach to the fire may not subject them to a disorder I have observed
+among them, called the elephantiasis, or swelling of the legs.[118]
+
+The divers having returned to their boats, we continued to row till towards
+evening, when we landed upon a low point. As soon as the canoes were hauled
+up, they employed themselves in erecting their wigwams, which they dispatch
+with great address and quickness. I still enjoyed the protection of my two
+good Indian women, who made me their guest here as before; they first
+regaled me with sea-eggs, and then went out upon another kind of fishery by
+the means of dogs and nets. These dogs are a cur-like looking animal, but
+very sagacious, and easily trained to this business. Though in appearance
+an uncomfortable sort of sport, yet they engage in it readily, seem to
+enjoy it much, and express their eagerness by barking every time they raise
+their heads above the water to breathe. The net is held by two Indians, who
+get into the water; then the dogs, taking a large compass, dive after the
+fish, and drive them into the net; but it is only in particular places that
+the fish are taken in this manner. At the close of the evening, the women
+brought in two fish, which served us for supper, and then we reposed
+ourselves as before. Here we remained all the next day, and the morning
+after embarked again, and rowed till noon; then landing, we descried the
+canoes of the Indian men, who had been some time expected from an
+expedition they had been upon. This was soon to make a great alteration in
+the situation of my affairs, a presage of which I could read in the
+melancholy countenance of my young hostess. She endeavoured to express
+herself in very earnest terms to me, but I had not yet acquired a competent
+knowledge of the Indian language to understand her.
+
+As soon as the men were landed, she and the old Indian woman went up, not
+without some marks of dread upon them, to an elderly Indian man, whose
+remarkably surly and stern countenance was well calculated to raise such
+sensations in his dependants. He seemed to be a cacique or chief man among
+them, by the airs of importance he assumed to himself, and the deference
+paid him by the rest. After some little conference passed between these
+Indians and our cacique conductor, of which, most probably, the
+circumstances of our history and the occasion of our coming here might be
+the chief subject, for they fixed their eyes constantly upon us, they
+applied themselves to building their wigwams.
+
+I now understood that the two Indian women with whom I had sojourned were
+wives to this chieftain, though one was young enough to be his daughter;
+and as far as I could learn, did really stand in the different relations to
+him both of daughter and wife. It was easy to be perceived that all did not
+go well between them at this time, either that he was not satisfied with
+the answers that they returned him to his questions, or that he suspected
+some misconduct on their side; for presently after breaking out into savage
+fury, he took the young one up in his arms, and threw her with violence
+against the stones; but his brutal resentment did not stop here, he beat
+her afterwards in a cruel manner. I could not see this treatment of my
+benefactress without the highest concern for her, and rage against the
+author of it; especially as the natural jealousy of these people gave
+occasion to think that it was on my account she suffered. I could hardly
+suppress the first emotions of my resentment, which prompted me to return
+him his barbarity in his own kind; but besides that this might have drawn
+upon her fresh marks of his severity, it was neither politic, nor indeed in
+my power to have done it to any good purpose at this time.
+
+
+[118] There are two very different disorders incident to the human body,
+    which bear the same name, derived from some resemblance they hold with
+    different parts of the animal so well known in the countries to which
+    these disorders are peculiar. That which was first so named is the
+    leprosy, which brings a scurf on the skin not unlike the hide of an
+    elephant. The other affects the patient with such enormous swelling of
+    the legs and feet, that they give the idea of those shapeless pillars
+    which support that creature; and therefore this disease has also been
+    called elephantiasis by the Arabian physicians; who, together with the
+    Malabrians, among whom it is endemial, attribute it to the drinking
+    bad waters, and the too sudden transitions from heat to cold.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+
+The Cacique's Conduct changes.--Description of the Indian Mode of
+Bird-fowling.--Their Religion.--Mr Elliot, our Surgeon, dies.--Transactions
+on our Journey.--Miserable Situation to which we are reduced.
+
+
+Our cacique now made us understand that we must embark directly in the same
+canoe which brought us, and return to our companions; and that the Indians
+we were about to leave would join us in a few days, when we should all set
+out in a body, in order to proceed to the northward. In our way back
+nothing very material happened; but upon our arrival, which was the next
+day, we found Mr Elliot, the surgeon, in a very bad way; his illness had
+been continually increasing since we left him. Mr Hamilton and Mr Campbell
+were almost starved, having fared very ill since we left them; a few sea-
+eggs were all the subsistence they had lived upon, and these procured by
+the cacique's wife in the manner I mentioned before. This woman was the
+very reverse of my hostess; and as she found her husband was of so much
+consequence to us, took upon her with much haughtiness, and treated us as
+dependants and slaves. He was not more engaging in his carriage towards us;
+he would give no part of what he had to spare to any but Captain Cheap,
+whom his interest led him to prefer to the rest, though our wants were
+often greater. The captain, on his part, contributed to keep us in this
+abject situation, by approving this distinction the cacique shewed to him.
+Had he treated us with not quite so much distance, the cacique might have
+been more regardful of our wants. The little regard and attention which our
+necessitous condition drew from Captain Cheap, may be imputed likewise, in
+some measure, to the effects of a mind soured by a series of crosses and
+disappointments; which, indeed, had operated on us all to a great neglect
+of each other, and sometimes of ourselves.
+
+We were not suffered to be in the same wigwam with the cacique and his
+wife, which, if we had had any countenance from Captain Cheap, would not
+have been refused. What we had made for ourselves was in such a bungling
+manner, that it scarce deserved the name even of this wretched sort of
+habitation. But our untoward circumstances now found some relief in the
+arrival of the Indians we waited for, who brought with them some seal, a
+small portion of which fell to our share. A night or two after, they sent
+out some of their young men, who procured us a quantity of a very delicate
+kind of birds, called shags and cormorants. Their manner of taking these
+birds resembles something a sport called bat-fowling. They find out their
+haunts among the rocks and cliffs in the night, when, taking with them
+torches made of the bark of the birch tree, which is common here, and grows
+to a very large size, (this bark has a very unctuous qaality, and emits a
+bright and clear light, and in the northern parts of America is used
+frequently instead of a candle) they bring the boat's side as near as
+possible to the rocks, under the roosting-places of these birds, then
+waving their lights backwards and forwards, the birds are dazzled and
+confounded so as to fall into the canoe, where they are instantly knocked
+on the head with a short stick the Indians take with them for that purpose.
+
+Seal are taken in some less-frequented parts of these coasts with great
+ease; but when their haunts have been two or three times disturbed, they
+soon learn to provide for their safety, by repairing to the water upon the
+first alarm. This is the case with them hereabouts; but as they frequently
+raise their heads above water, either to breathe or look about them, I have
+seen an Indian at this interval throw his lance with such dexterity, as to
+strike the animal through both its eyes at a great distance; and it is very
+seldom that they miss their aim.
+
+As we were wholly unacquainted with these methods of providing food for
+ourselves, and were without arms and ammunition, we were drove to the
+utmost straits, and found ourselves rather in worse condition than we had
+been at any time before; for the Indians, having now nothing to fear from
+us, we found we had nothing to expect from them upon any other motive.
+Accordingly, if they ever did relieve us, it was through caprice; for at
+most times, they would shew themselves unconcerned at our greatest
+distresses. But the good Indian women, whose friendship I had experienced
+before, continued, from time to time, their good offices to me. Though I
+was not suffered to enter their wigwams, they would find opportunities of
+throwing in my way such scraps as they could secrete from their husbands.
+The obligation I was under to them on this account is great, as the hazard
+they ran in conferring these favours was little less than death. The men,
+unrestrained by any laws or ties of conscience in the management of their
+own families, exercise a most despotic authority over their wives, whom
+they consider in the same view they do any other part of their property,
+and dispose of them accordingly: Even their common treatment of them is
+cruel; for though the toil and hazard of procuring food lies entirely upon
+the women, yet they are not suffered to touch any part of it till the
+husband is satisfied, and then he assigns them their portion, which is
+generally very scanty, and such as he has not a stomach for himself. This
+arbitrary proceeding, with respect to their own families, is not peculiar
+to this people only. I have had occasion to observe it in more instances
+than this I have mentioned, among many other nations of savages I have
+since seen.
+
+These Indians are of a middling stature, well set, and very active, and
+make their way among the rocks with an amazing agility. Their feet, by this
+kind of exercise, contract a callosity which renders the use of shoes quite
+unnecessary to them. But before I conclude the few observations I have to
+make on a people so confined in all their notions and practice, it may be
+expected I should say something of their religion; but as their gross
+ignorance is in nothing more conspicuous, and as we found it advisable to
+keep out of their way when the fits of devotion came upon them, which is
+rather frantic than religious, the reader can expect very little
+satisfaction on this head. Accident has sometimes made me unavoidably a
+spectator of scenes I should have chosen to have withdrawn myself from; and
+so far I am instructed. As there are no fixed seasons for their religious
+exercises, the younger people wait till the elders find themselves devoutly
+disposed, who begin the ceremony by several deep and dismal groans, which
+rise gradually to a hideous kind of singing, from which they proceed to
+enthusiasm, and work themselves into a disposition that borders on madness;
+for, suddenly jumping up, they snatch fire-brands from the fire, put them
+in their mouths, and run about burning every body they come near; at other
+times it is a custom with them to wound one another with sharp mussel-
+shells till they are besmeared with blood. These orgies continue till these
+who preside in them foam at the mouth, grow faint, are exhausted with
+fatigue, and dissolve in a profusion of sweat. When the men drop their part
+in this frenzy, the women take it up, acting over again much the same kind
+of wild scene, except that they rather outdo the men in shrieks and noise.
+Our cacique, who had been reclaimed from these abominations by the
+Spaniards, and just knew the exterior form of crossing himself, pretended
+to be much offended at these profane ceremonies, and that he would have
+died sooner than have partaken of them. Among other expressions of his
+disapprobation, he declared, that whilst the savages solemnized these
+horrid rites, he never failed to hear strange and uncommon noises in the
+woods, and to see frightful visions, and assured us that the devil was the
+chief actor among them upon these occasions.
+
+It might be about the middle of March that we embarked with these Indians.
+They separated our little company entirely, not putting any two of us
+together in the same canoe. The oar was my lot, as usual, as also Mr
+Campbell's; Mr Hamilton could not row, and Captain Cheap was out of the
+question; our surgeon was more dead than alive at the time, and lay at the
+bottom of the canoe he was in. The weather coming on too bad for their
+canoes to keep the sea, we landed again, without making any great progress
+that day. Here Mr Elliot, our surgeon, died. At our first setting out, he
+promised the fairest for holding out, being a very strong active young man:
+He had gone through an infinite deal of fatigue, as Mr Hamilton and he were
+the best shots amongst us, and whilst our ammunition lasted never spared
+themselves, and in a great measure provided for the rest; but he died the
+death many others had done before him, being quite starved. We scraped a
+hole for him in the sand, and buried him in the best manner we could.
+
+Here I must relate a little anecdote of our Christian cacique. He and his
+wife had gone off at some distance from the shore in their canoe, when she
+dived for sea-eggs; but not meeting with great success, they returned a
+good deal out of humour. A little boy of theirs, about three years old,
+whom they appeared to be doatingly fond of, watching for his father and
+mother's return, ran into the surf to meet them: The father handed a basket
+of sea-eggs to the child, which being too heavy for him to carry, he let it
+fall; upon which the father jumped out of the canoe, and catching the boy
+up in his arms, dashed him with the utmost violence against the stones. The
+poor little creature lay motionless and bleeding, and in that condition was
+taken up by the mother, but died soon after. She appeared inconsolable for
+some time, but the brute his father shewed little concern about it.
+
+A day or two after we put to sea again, and crossed the great bay I
+mentioned we had been to the bottom of, when we first hauled away to the
+westward. The land here was very low and sandy, with something like the
+mouth of a river, which discharged itself into the sea, and which had been
+taken no notice of by us before, as it was so shallow that the Indians were
+obliged to take every thing out of their canoes, and carry it over the neck
+of land, and then, haul the boats over into a river which at this part of
+it was very broad, more resembling a lake than a river. We rowed up it for
+four or five leagues, and then took into a branch of it, that ran first to
+the eastward, and then to the northward: Here it became much narrower, and
+the stream excessively rapid, so that we made but little way, though we
+worked very hard. At night we landed upon its banks, and had a most
+uncomfortable lodging, it being a perfect swamp; and we had nothing to
+cover us, though it rained very hard. The Indians were little better off
+than we, as there was no wood here to make their wigwams; so that all they
+could do was to prop up the bark they carry in the bottom of their canoes
+with their oars, and shelter themselves as well as they could to leeward of
+it. They, knowing the difficulties that were to be encountered here, had
+provided themselves with some seal; but we had not the least morsel to eat,
+after the heavy fatigues of the day, excepting a sort of root we saw some
+of the Indians make use of, which was very disagreeable to the taste. We
+laboured all the next day against the stream, and fared as we had done the
+day before. The next day brought us to the carrying-place. Here was plenty
+of wood, but nothing to be got for sustenance.
+
+The first thing the Indians did was to take every thing out of their
+canoes, and after hauling them ashore, they made their wigwams. We passed
+this night, as generally we had done, under a tree; but what we suffered at
+this time is not easily to be expressed. I had been three days at the oar
+without any kind of nourishment but the wretched root I mentioned before. I
+had no shirt, as mine was rotted off by bits, and we were devoured by
+vermin. All my clothes consisted of an old short grieko, which is something
+like a bearskin with a piece of a waistcoat under it, which once had been
+of red cloth, both which I had on when I was cast away; I had a ragged pair
+of trowsers, without either shoe or stocking.
+
+The first thing the Indians did in the morning was to take their canoes to
+pieces; and here, for the information of the reader, it will be necessary
+to describe the structure of these boats, which are extremely well
+calculated for the use of these Indians, as they are frequently obliged to
+carry them over land a long way together, through thick woods, to avoid
+doubling capes and head-lands, in seas where no open boats could live. They
+generally consist of five pieces or planks, one for the bottom, and two for
+each side; and as these people have no iron tools, the labour must be great
+in hacking a single plank out of a large tree with shells and flints,
+though with the help of fire. Along the edges of the plank, they make small
+holes, at about an inch from one to the other, and sew them together with
+the supplejack or woodbine; but as these holes are not filled up by the
+substance of the woodbine, their boats would be immediately full of water
+if they had not a method of preventing it. They do this very effectually by
+the bark of a tree, which they first steep in water for some time, and then
+beat it between two stones till it answers the use of oakum, and then
+chinse each hole so well, that they do not admit of the least water coming
+through, and are easily taken asunder and put together again. When they
+have occasion to go over land, as at this time, each man or woman carries a
+plank, whereas it would be impossible for them to drag a heavy boat entire.
+
+Every body had something to carry except Captain Cheap, and he was obliged
+to be assisted, or never would have got over this march; for a worse than
+this I believe never was made. He, with the others, set out some time
+before me. I waited for two Indians who belonged to the canoe I came in,
+and who remained to carry over the last of the things from the side we were
+on. I had a piece of wet heavy canvas which belonged to Captain Cheap, with
+a bit of stinking seal wrapped in it, (which had been given him that
+morning by some of the Indians) to carry upon my head, which was a
+sufficient weight for a strong man in health through such roads, and a
+grievous burthen to one in my condition.
+
+Our way was through a thick wood, the bottom of which was a mere quagmire,
+most part of it up to our knees, and often to our middle, and every now and
+then we had a large tree to get over, for they often lay directly in our
+road. Besides this, we were continually treading upon the stumps of trees,
+which were not to be avoided, as they were covered with water; and having
+neither shoe nor stocking, my feet and legs were frequently torn and
+wounded. Before I had got half a mile the two Indians had left me, and
+making the best of my way lest they should be all gone before I got to the
+other side, I fell off a tree that crossed the road into a very deep swamp,
+where I very narrowly escaped drowning, by the weight of the burthen I had
+on my head. It was a long while before I could extricate myself from this
+difficulty, and when I did, my strength was quite exhausted. I sat down
+under a tree, and there gave way to melancholy reflections. However, as I
+was sensible these reflections would answer no end, they did not last long.
+I got up, and marking a great tree, I then deposited my load, not being
+able to carry it any farther, and set out to join my company.
+
+It was some hours before I reached my companions. I found them sitting
+under a tree, and sat myself down by them without speaking a word; nor did
+they speak to me, as I remember, for some time, when Captain Cheap breaking
+silence, began to ask after the seal and piece of canvas. I told him the
+disaster I had met with, which he might have easily guessed by the
+condition the rags I had on were in, as well as having my feet and ancles
+cut to pieces; but, instead of compassion for my sufferings, I heard
+nothing but grumbling from every one for the irreparable loss they had
+sustained by me. I made no answer, but after resting myself a little, I got
+up and struck into the wood, and walked back at least five miles to the
+tree I had marked, and returned just time enough to deliver it before my
+companions embarked, with the Indians, upon a great lake, the opposite part
+of which seemed to wash the foot of the Cordilleras. I wanted to embark
+with them, but was given to understand I was to wait for some other Indians
+that were to follow them. I knew not where these Indians were to come from:
+I was left alone upon the beach, and night was at hand. They left me not
+even a morsel of the stinking seal that I had suffered so much about.
+
+I kept my eyes upon the boats as long as I could distinguish them, and then
+returned into the wood, and sat myself down upon the root of a tree, having
+eat nothing the whole day but the stem of a plant which resembles that of
+an artichoke, which is of a juicy consistence and acid taste. Quite worn
+out with fatigue, I soon fell asleep; and awaking before day, I thought I
+heard some voices at no great distance from me. As the day appeared,
+looking further into the wood, I perceived a wigwam, and immediately made
+towards it; but the reception I met with was not at all agreeable, for
+stooping to get into it, I presently received two or three hearty kicks in
+my face, and at the same time heard the sound of voices, seemingly in
+anger, which made me retire, and wait at the foot of a tree, where I
+remained till an old woman peeped out and made signs to me to draw near. I
+obeyed very readily, and went into the wigwam. In it were three men and two
+women; one young man seemed to have great respect shewn to him by the rest,
+though he was the most miserable object I ever saw. He was a perfect
+skeleton, and covered with sores from head to foot. I was happy to sit a
+moment by their fire, as I was quite benumbed with cold. The old woman took
+out a piece of seal, holding one part of it between her feet, and the other
+end in her teeth, and then cut off some thin slices with a sharp shell, and
+distributed them about to the other Indians. She then put a bit on the
+fire, taking a piece of fat in her mouth, which she kept chewing, every now
+and then spirting some of it on the piece that was warming upon the fire;
+for they never do more with it than warm it through. When it was ready, she
+gave me a little bit, which I swallowed whole, being almost starved.
+
+As these Indians were all strangers to me, I did not know which way they
+were going; and indeed it was now become quite indifferent to me which way
+I went, whether to the northward or southward, so that they would but take
+me with them and give me something to eat. However, to make them comprehend
+me, I pointed first to the southward, and after to the lake, and I soon
+understood they were going to the northward. They all went out together,
+excepting the sick Indian, and took up the planks of the canoes, which lay
+near the wigwam, and carried them upon the beach, and presently put it
+together, and getting every thing into it, they put me to the oar. We rowed
+across the lake to the mouth of a very rapid river, where we put ashore for
+that night, not daring to get any way down in the dark, as it required the
+greatest skill, even in the day, to avoid running foul of the stumps and
+roots of trees, of which this river was full. I passed a melancholy night,
+as they would not suffer me to come near the wigwam they had made; nor had
+they given me the least bit of any one thing to eat since we embarked.
+
+In the morning we set off again. The weather proved extremely bad the whole
+day. We went down the river at an amazing rate, and just before night they
+put ashore upon a stony beach. They hauled the canoe up, and all
+disappeared in a moment, and I was left quite alone; it rained violently,
+and was very dark. I thought it was as well to lay down upon the beach,
+half side in water, as to get into a swamp under a dropping tree. In this
+dismal situation I fell asleep, and awaked three or four hours after in
+such agonies with the cramp, that I thought I must die upon the spot. I
+attempted several times to raise myself upon my legs, but could not. At
+last I made shift to get upon my knees, and looking towards the wood, I saw
+a great fire at some distance from me. I was a long time crawling to it,
+and when I reached it, I threw myself almost into it, in hopes of finding
+some relief from the pain I suffered. This intrusion gave great offence to
+the Indians, who immediately got up, kicking and beating me till they drove
+me to some distance from it; however, I contrived a little after to place
+myself so as to receive some warmth from it, by which I got rid of the
+cramp.
+
+In the morning we left this place, and were soon after out of the river.
+Being now at sea again, the Indians intended putting ashore at the first
+convenient place to look for shell-fish, their stock of provisions having
+been quite exhausted for some time. At low water we landed upon a spot that
+seemed to promise well, and here we found plenty of limpets. Though at this
+time starving, I did not attempt to eat one, lest I should lose a moment in
+gathering them, not knowing how soon the Indians might be going again. I
+had almost filled my hat when I saw them returning to the canoe. I made
+what haste I could to her, for I believe they would have made no conscience
+of leaving me behind. I sat down to my oar again, placing my hat close to
+me, every now and then eating a limpet. The Indians were employed the same
+way, when one of them seeing me throw the shells overboard, spoke to the
+rest in a violent passion, and getting up, fell upon me, and seizing me by
+an old ragged handkerchief I had about my neck, almost throttled me; whilst
+another took me by the legs, and was going to throw me overboard if the old
+woman had not prevented, them.
+
+I was all this time entirely ignorant by what means I had given offence,
+till I observed that the Indians, after eating the limpets, carefully put
+the shells in a heap at the bottom, of the canoe. I then concluded there
+was some superstition about throwing these shells into the sea, my
+ignorance of which had very nearly cost me my life. I was resolved to eat
+no more limpets till we landed, which we did some time after upon an
+island. I then took notice that the Indians brought all their shells
+ashore, and laid them above high-water mark. Here, as I was going to eat a
+large bunch of berries I had gathered from a tree, for they looked very
+tempting, one of the Indians snatched them out of my hand and threw them
+away, making me to understand that they were poisonous. Thus, in all
+probability, did these people now save my life, who, a few hours before,
+were going to take it from me for throwing away a shell.
+
+In two days after I joined my companions again, but don't remember that
+there was the least joy shewn on either side at meeting. At this place was
+a very large canoe belonging to our guide, which would have required at
+least six men to the oar to have made any kind of expedition; instead of
+that, there was only Campbell and myself, besides the Indian, his companion
+or servant, to row, the cacique himself never touching an oar, but sitting,
+with his wife all the time much at his ease. Mr Hamilton continued in the
+same canoe he had been in all along, and which still was to keep us company
+some way further, though many of the others had left us. This was dreadful
+hard work to such poor starved wretches as we were, to be slaving at the
+oar all day long in such a heavy boat; and this inhuman fellow would never
+give us a scrap to eat, excepting when he took so much seal that he could
+not contrive to carry it all away with him, which happened very seldom.
+
+After working like galley slaves all day, towards night, when we landed,
+instead of taking any rest, Mr Campbell and I were sometimes obliged to go
+miles along shore to get a few shell-fish; and just as we have made a
+little fire in order to dress them, he has commanded us into the boat
+again, and kept us rowing the whole night without ever landing. It is
+impossible for me to describe the miserable state we were reduced to: Our
+bodies were so emaciated, that we hardly appeared the figures of men.
+
+It has often happened to me in the coldest night, both in hail and snow,
+where we had nothing but an open beach to lay down upon, in order to
+procure a little rest, that I have been obliged to pull off the few rags I
+had on, as it was impossible to get a moment's sleep with them on for the
+vermin that swarmed about them, though I used as often as I had time, to
+take my clothes off, and putting them upon a large stone, beat them with
+another, in hopes of killing hundreds at once, for it was endless work to
+pick them off. What we suffered from this was ten times worse even than
+hunger. But we were clean in comparison to Captain Cheap, for I could
+compare his body to nothing but an ant-hill, with thousands of those
+insects crawling over it; for he was now past attempting to rid himself in
+the least from this torment, as he had quite lost himself, not recollecting
+our names that were about him, or even his own. His beard was as long as a
+hermit's; that and his face being covered with train-oil and dirt, from
+having long accustomed himself to sleep upon a bag, by the way of pillow,
+in which he kept the pieces of stinking seal. This prudent method he took
+to prevent our getting at it whilst he slept. His legs were as big as
+millposts, though his body appeared to be nothing but skin and bone.
+
+One day we fell in with about forty Indians, who came down to the beach we
+landed on, curiously painted. Our cacique seemed to understand but little
+of their language, and it sounded to us very different from what we had
+heard before. However, they made us comprehend that a ship had been upon
+the coast not far from where we then were, and that she had a red flag:
+This we understood some time after to have been the Anne pink, whose
+adventures are particularly related in Lord Anson's Voyage; and we passed
+through the very harbour she had lain in.
+
+As there was but one small canoe that intended to accompany us any longer,
+and that in which Mr Hamilton had been to this time intended to proceed no
+further to the northward, our cacique proposed to him to come into our
+canoe, which he refused, as the insolence of this fellow was to him
+insupportable; he therefore rather chose to remain where he was, till
+chance should throw in his way some other means of getting forward; so here
+we left him, and it was some months before we saw him again.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+
+We land on the Island of Chiloe.--To our great Joy we at length discover
+Something having the Appearance of a House.--Kindness of the Natives.--We
+are delivered to the Custody of a Spanish Guard.--Transactions with the
+Spanish Residents.--Arrival at Chaco.--Manners of the Inhabitants.
+
+
+We now got on, by very slow degrees, to the northward; and as the
+difficulties and hardships we daily went through would only be a repetition
+of those already mentioned, I shall say no more, but that at last we
+reached an island about thirty leagues to the southward of Chiloe. Here we
+remained two days for a favourable opportunity to cross the bay, the very
+thoughts of which seemed to frighten our cacique out of his senses; and
+indeed there was great reason for his apprehensions, for there ran a most
+dreadful hollow sea, dangerous indeed for any open boat whatever, but a
+thousand times more for such a crazy vessel as we were in. He at length
+mustered up resolution enough to attempt it, first having crossed himself
+for an hour together, and made a kind of lug-sail out of the bits of
+blankets they wore about them, sewed together with split supple-jacks. We
+then put off, and a terrible passage we had. The bottom plank of the canoe
+was split, which opened upon every sea; and the water continually rushing
+over the gunnel, I may say that we were in a manner full the whole way
+over, though all hands were employed in bailing, without ceasing a moment.
+
+As we drew near the shore, the cacique was eager to land, having been
+terrified to that degree with this run, that if it had not been for us,
+every soul must have perished; for he had very near got in amongst the
+breakers, where the sea drove with such violence upon the rocks, that not
+even an Indian could have escaped, especially as it was in the night. We
+kept off till we got into smooth water, and landed upon the island of
+Chiloe, though in a part of it that was not inhabited. Here we staid all
+the next day, in a very heavy snow, to recover ourselves a little after our
+fatigue; but the cold was so excessive, having neither shoe nor stocking,
+we thought we should have lost our feet; and Captain Cheap was so ill, that
+if he had had but a few leagues further to have gone without relief, he
+could not have held out. It pleased God now that our sufferings, in a great
+measure, were drawing to an end.
+
+What things our cacique had brought with him from the wreck, he here buried
+under ground, in order to conceal them from the Spaniards, who would not
+have left him a rusty nail if they had known of it. Towards evening we set
+off again; and about nine the same night, to our great joy, we observed
+something that had the appearance of a house, It belonged to an
+acquaintance of our cacique; and as he was possessed of my fowling-piece,
+and we had preserved about one charge of powder, he made us load it for
+him, and desired we would shew him how to discharge it; upon which,
+standing up, and holding his head from it as far as possible, he fired, and
+fell back into the bottom of the canoe. The Indians belonging to the house,
+not in the least used to fire-arms, ran out and hid themselves in the
+woods. But after some time, one of them bolder than the rest, got upon a
+hill and hollowed to us, asking who and what we were. Our cacique now made
+himself known, and they presently came down to the boat, bringing with them
+some fish and plenty of potatoes. This was the most comfortable meal we had
+made for many long months; and as soon as this was over, we rowed about two
+miles farther to a little village, where we landed. Here our cacique
+presently awaked all the inhabitants by the noise he made, and obliged one
+of them to open his door to us, and immediately to make a large fire, for
+the weather was very severe, this being the month of June, the depth of
+winter in this part of the world. The Indians now flocked thick about us,
+and seemed to have great compassion for us, as our cacique related to them
+what part be knew of our history. They knew not what countrymen we were,
+nor could our guide inform them; for he had often asked us if we were
+French, Dutch, or English, the only nations he had ever heard of besides
+the Spaniards. We always answered we were from Grande Bretagne, which he
+could make nothing of; for we were afraid, if he knew us to be English, as
+he had heard that nation was at war with the Spaniards, he never would have
+conducted us to Chiloe.
+
+These good-natured compassionate creatures seemed to vie with each other
+who should take the most care of us. They made a bed of sheep-skins close
+to the fire for Captain Cheap, and laid him upon it; and indeed, had it not
+been for the kind assistance he now met with, he could not have survived
+three days longer. Though it was now about midnight, they went out and
+killed a sheep, of which they made broth, and baked a large cake of barley-
+meal. Any body may imagine what a treat this was to wretches who had not
+tasted a bit of bread, or any wholesome diet, for such a length of time.
+After we could eat no longer, we went to sleep about the fire, which the
+Indians took care to keep up. In the morning, the women came from far and
+near, each bringing with her something. Almost every one had a pipkin in
+her hand, containing either fowls or mutton made into broth, potatoes,
+eggs, or other eatables. We fell to work as if we had eat nothing in the
+night, and employed ourselves so for the best part of the day.
+
+In the evening, the men filled our house, bringing with them some jars of a
+liquor they called chica, made of barley-meal, and not very unlike our oat-
+ale in taste, which will intoxicate those who drink a sufficient quantity
+of it, for a little has no effect. As soon as the drink was out, a fresh
+supply of victuals was brought in; and in this manner we passed the whole
+time we remained with these hospitable Indians. They are a strong well-made
+people, extremely well-featured, both men and women, and vastly neat in
+their persons. The men's dress is called by them a puncho, which is a
+square piece of cloth, generally in stripes of different colours, with a
+slit in the middle of it, wide enough to let their heads through, so that
+it hangs on their shoulders, half of it falling before and the other behind
+them: Under this they wear a short kind of flannel shirt without sleeves or
+neck. They have wide-knee'd breeches, something like the Dutch seamen, and
+on their legs a sort of knit buskins without any feet to them, but never
+any shoes. Their hair is always combed very smooth, and tied very tight up
+in a great bunch close to the neck; some wear a very neat hat of their own
+making, and others go without. The women wear a shift like the men's
+shirts, without sleeves, and over it a square piece of cloth, which they
+fasten before with a large silver pin, and a petticoat of different
+stripes. They take as much care of their hair as the men; and both have
+always a kind of fillet bound very tight about the fore-head, and made fast
+behind. In short, these people are as cleanly as the several savage nations
+we had met with before were beastly.
+
+Upon our first coming here, they had dispatched a messenger to the Spanish
+corregidore at Castro, a town a considerable distance from hence, to inform
+him of our arrival. At the end of three days, this man returned with an
+order to the chief caciques of these Indians we were amongst, to carry us
+directly to a certain place, where there would be a party of soldiers to
+receive us. These poor people now seemed to be under great concern for us,
+hearing by the messenger the preparations that were making to receive us;
+for they stand in vast dread of the Spanish soldiery. They were very
+desirous of knowing what countrymen we were. We told them we were English,
+and at that time at war with the Spaniards, upon which they appeared fonder
+of us than ever; and I verily believe, if they durst, would have concealed
+us amongst them, lest we should come to any harm. They are so far from
+being in the Spanish interest, that they detest the very name of a
+Spaniard. And, indeed, I am not surprised at it, for they are kept under
+such subjection, and such a laborious slavery, by mere dint of hard usage
+and punishments, that it appears to me the most absurd thing in the world
+that the Spaniards should rely upon these people for assistance upon any
+emergency.
+
+We embarked in the evening, and it was night before we got to the place
+where we were to be delivered up to the Spanish guard. We were met by three
+or four officers and a number of soldiers, all with their spados drawn, who
+surrounded us as if they had the most formidable enemy to take charge of,
+instead of three poor helpless wretches, who, notwithstanding the good
+living we had met with amongst these kind Indians, could hardly support
+ourselves. They carried us to the top of a hill, and there put us under a
+shed, for it consisted of a thatched roof without any sides or walls, being
+quite open; and here we were to lie upon the cold ground. All sorts of
+people now came to stare at us as a sight; but the Indian women never came
+empty-handed; they always brought with them either fowls, mutton, or some
+kind of provision to us, so that we lived well enough. However, we found a
+very sensible difference between the treatment we had met with from the
+Indians and what we now experienced from the Spaniards. With the former, we
+were quite at liberty to do as we pleased; but here, if we only went ten
+yards to attempt at getting rid of some of the vermin that devoured us, we
+had two soldiers with drawn spados to attend us.
+
+About the third day, a Jesuit from Castro came to see us, not from a motive
+of compassion, but from a report spread by our Indian cacique, that we had
+some things of great value about us. Having by chance seen Captain Cheap
+pull out a gold repeating watch, the first thing the good father did was to
+lug out of his pocket a bottle of brandy and give us a dram, in order to
+open our hearts. He then came roundly to the point, asking us if we had
+saved no watches or rings. Captain Cheap declared he had nothing, never
+suspecting that the Indian had seen his watch, having, as he thought,
+always taken great care to conceal it from him; but knowing that Campbell
+had a silver watch, which had been the property of our surgeon, he desired
+him to make it a present to the Jesuit, telling him at the same time, that
+as these people had great power and authority, it might be of service to us
+hereafter. This Campbell very unwillingly did, and received from the
+father, not long after, a pitiful present, not a quarter part of the value
+of the rim of the watch. We understood afterwards that this had come to the
+governor's ears, who was highly offended at it, as thinking that if any
+thing of that sort had been to be had, it was his due, and did not spare
+the Jesuits in the least upon the occasion.
+
+Soon after this, the officer of the guard informed us there was an order
+come to carry us to Castro. In the evening, we were conducted to the water-
+side, and put into a large periago, and there were several more to attend
+us, full of soldiers. About eight o'clock at night we were off the town.
+Their boats all laid upon their oars, and there was a great deal of
+ceremony used in hailing and asking for the keys, as if it had been a
+regular fortification. After some time, we landed, but could see neither
+gates nor walk, nor any thing that had the appearance of a garrison. As we
+walked up a steep hill into the town, the way was lined with men, who had
+broomsticks upon their shoulders instead of muskets, and a lighted match in
+their hands. When we came to the corregidore's house, we found it full of
+people. He was an old man, very tall, with a long cloak on, a tye-wig
+without any curl, and a spado of immense length by his aide. He received us
+in great state and form; but as we had no interpreter, we understood little
+or nothing of the questions he asked us. He ordered a table to be spread
+for us with cold ham and fowls, which we three only sat down to, and in a
+short time dispatched more than ten men with common appetites would have
+done. It is amazing, that our eating to that excess we had done, from the
+time we first got among these kind Indians, had not killed us; we were
+never satisfied, and used to take all opportunities for some months after,
+of filling our pockets when we were not seen, that we might get up two or
+three times in the night to cram ourselves. Captain Cheap used to declare,
+that he was quite ashamed of himself.
+
+After supper, the corregidore carried us to the Jesuits college, attended
+by the soldiers and all the rabble of the town. This was intended at
+present for our prison, till orders were received from the governor, who
+resided at Chaco, above thirty leagues from this place. When we got to the
+college, the corregidore desired the father provincial, as they stiled him,
+or head of the Jesuits here, to find out what religion we were of, or
+whether we had any or not. He then retired, the gates were shut, and we
+were conducted to a cell. We found in it something like beds spread on the
+floor, and an old ragged shirt apiece, but clean, which was of infinite
+service to us; nor did eating at first give me half the satisfaction this
+treasure of an old shirt did. Though this college was large, there were but
+four Jesuits in it, nor were there any more of that order upon the island.
+
+In the morning, Captain Cheap was sent for by the father provincial: Their
+conversation was carried on in Latin, perhaps not the best on either side;
+however, they made shift to understand one another. When he returned, he
+told us the good fathers were still harping upon what things of value we
+might have saved and concealed about us; and that if we had any thing of
+that sort, we could not do better than let them have it. Religion seemed to
+be quite out of the question at present; but a day or two after, the
+corregidore being informed that we were heretics, he desired these Jesuits
+would convert us; but one of them told him it was a mere joke to attempt
+it, as we could have no inducement upon that island to change our religion;
+but that when we got to Chili, in such a delightful country as that was,
+where there was nothing but diversions and amusements, we should be
+converted fast enough. We kept close to our cell till the bell rang for
+dinner, when we were conducted into a hall, where there was one table for
+the fathers, and another for us. After a very long Latin prayer, we sat
+down and eat what was put before us, without a single word passing at
+either table. As soon as we had finished, there was another long prayer,
+which, however, did not appear so tedious as the first, and then we retired
+to our cell again. In this manner we passed eight days without ever
+stirring out, all which time one might have imagined one's self out of the
+world; for excepting the bell for dinner, a silence reigned throughout the
+whole, as if the place had been uninhabited.
+
+A little before dark, on the eighth evening, we heard a violent knocking at
+the gate, which was no sooner opened than there entered a young officer
+booted and spurred, who acquainted the fathers that he was sent by the
+governor to conduct us to Chaco. This young man was the governor's son, by
+which means he obtained a command next in authority, upon this island, to
+his father. He ought to have been kept at school, for he was a vain empty
+coxcomb, much disliked by the people upon the island. After taking leave of
+the Jesuits, who, I imagine, were not sorry to be rid of us, after finding
+their expectations baulked, we set out, having about thirty soldiers on
+horseback to attend us. We rode about eight miles that night, when we came
+to an Estancia, or farm-house, belonging to an old lady, who had two
+handsome daughters. Here we were very well entertained, and the good old
+lady seemed to have great compassion on us. She asked the governor's son if
+he thought his father would have any objection to my passing a month with
+her at her farm. As she was a person of rank in this island, he said he
+would acquaint his father with her request, and made no doubt but he would
+grant it. I observed our soldiers, when they came into the house, had none
+of them any shoes on, but wore buskins, like the Indians, without any feet
+to them. They all had monstrous great spurs, some of silver and others of
+copper, which made a rattling when they walked, like chains. They were all
+stout strong-looking men, as the Spaniards, natives of the island, in
+general are. After a good supper, we had sheep-skins laid near the fire for
+us to sleep on.
+
+Early in the morning we mounted again, and after riding some miles across
+the country, we came to the water-side, where we found several periagoes
+waiting for us, with some officers in them. Most of the soldiers dismounted
+and embarked with us, few only being sent round with the horses. It was
+three days before we arrived at Chaco, as the tides between this island and
+the main are so rapid that no boat can stem them. The same precaution was
+taken here as at Castro; we passed through a whole lane of soldiers, armed
+as I mentioned those to have been before, excepting a few who really had
+match-locks, the only fire-arms they have here. The soldiers, upon our
+journey, had given a pompous account of el Palacio del Rey, or the king's
+palace, as they stiled the governor's house, and therefore we expected to
+see something very magnificent; but it was nothing better than a large
+thatched barn, partitioned off into several rooms. The governor was sitting
+at a large table covered with a piece of red serge, having all the
+principal officers about him. After some time, he made us sit down,
+attempting to converse with us by his linguist, who was a stupid old
+fellow, that could neither talk English nor Spanish, but said he was born
+in England, had resided above forty years in that country, and having
+formerly been a buccaneer, was taken by the Spaniards near Panama. The
+governor kept us to supper, and then we were conducted across the court to
+our apartment, which was a place that had served to keep the fire-wood for
+the governor's kitchen; however, as it was dry over head, we thought
+ourselves extremely well lodged. There was a soldier placed at the door
+with a drawn spado in his hand, to prevent our stirring out, which was
+quite unnecessary, as we knew not where to go if we had been at liberty.
+One of these soldiers took a fancy to my ragged grieko, which had still
+some thousands about it, and in exchange gave me an old poncho, the sort of
+garment with a hole in the middle to put one's head through, as above
+related to be worn by the Indians; and for the little bit of my waistcoat
+that remained, he gave me a pair of breeches. I now should have thought
+myself very handsomely equipped, if I had had but another shirt.
+
+The next day, about noon, the governor sent for us, and we dined at his
+table, after which we returned to our lodging, where we were never alone,
+for every body was curious to see us. We passed about a week in this
+manner, when the centinel was taken off, and we were allowed to look about
+us a little, though not to go out of the palace, as they were pleased to
+call it. We dined every day with the governor, but were not very fond of
+his fast days, which succeeded each other too quickly. I contrived to make
+friends with his steward and cook, by which means I always carried my
+pockets full to my apartment, where I passed my time very agreeably. Soon
+after, we had leave to walk about the town, or go wherever we pleased.
+Every house was open to us; and though it was but an hour after we had
+dined, they always spread a table, thinking we never could eat enough after
+what we had suffered; and we were much of the same opinion. They are, in
+general, a charitable, good sort of people, but very ignorant, and governed
+by their priests, who make them believe just what they please.
+
+The Indian language is chiefly spoken here, even by the Spaniards one
+amongst another; and they say they think it a finer language than their
+own. The women have fine complexions, and many of them are very handsome;
+they have good voices, and can strum a little upon the guitar; but they
+have an ugly custom of smoking tobacco, which is a very scarce commodity
+here, and therefore is looked upon as a great treat when they meet at one
+another's houses. The lady of the house comes in with a large wooden pipe
+crammed with tobacco, and after taking two or three hearty whiffs, she
+holds her head under her cloak lest any of the smoke should escape, and
+then swallows it; some time after, you see it coming out of her nose and
+ears. She then hands the pipe to the next lady, who does the same, till it
+has gone through the whole company. Their houses are but very mean, as will
+be easily imagined by what I have said of the governor's. They make their
+fire in the middle of their rooms, but have no chimneys; there is a small
+hole at each end of the roof to let the smoke out.
+
+It is only the better sort of people that eat bread made of wheat, as they
+grow but very little here, and they have no mills to grind it; but then
+they have great plenty of the finest potatoes in the world: These are
+always roasted in the ashes, then scraped, and served up at meals instead
+of bread. They breed abundance of swine, as they supply both Chili and Peru
+with hams. They are in no want of sheep, but are not overstocked with cows,
+owing, in a great measure, to their own indolence in not clearing away the
+woods, which if they would be at the pains to do, they might have
+sufficient pasture. Their trade consists in hams, hogs-lard, which is used
+throughout all South America instead of butter; cedar-plank, which the
+Indians are continually employed in cutting quite to the foot of the
+Cordilleras, little carved boxes, which the Spanish ladies use to put their
+work in, carpets, quilts, and punchos neatly embroidered all round; for
+these, both in Chili and Peru, are used by the people of the first fashion,
+as well as the inferior sort, by way of riding-dress, and are esteemed to
+be much more convenient for a horseman than any kind of coat whatever.
+
+They have what they call an annual ship from Lima, as they never expect
+more than one in the year; though sometimes it happens that two have come,
+and at other times they have been two or three years without any. When this
+happens, they are greatly distressed, as this ship brings them baize,
+cloth, linens, hats, ribbons, tobacco, sugar, brandy, and wine, but this
+latter article is chiefly for the use of the churches: Matte, an herb from
+Paraguay, used over all South America instead of tea, is also a necessary
+article. This ship's cargo is chiefly consigned to the Jesuits, who have
+more Indians employed for them than all the rest of the inhabitants
+together, and of course engross almost the whole trade. There is no money
+current in this island. If any person wants a few yards of linen, a little
+sugar, tobacco, or any other thing brought from Peru, he gives so many
+cedar-planks, hams, or punchos, in exchange. Some time after we had been
+here, a snow arrived in the harbour from Lima, which occasioned great joy
+amongst the inhabitants, as they had no ship the year before, from the
+alarm Lord Anson had given upon the coast.
+
+This was not the annual vessel, but one of those that I mentioned before
+which come unexpectedly. The captain of her was an old man, well known upon
+the island, who had traded here once in two or three years for more than
+thirty years past. He had a remarkably large head, and therefore was
+commonly known by a nick-name they had given him of Cabuco de Toro, or
+Bull's-head. He had not been here a week, before he came to the governor,
+and told him, with a most melancholy countenance, that he had not slept a
+wink since he came into the harbour, as the governor was pleased to allow
+three English prisoners liberty to walk about instead of confining them,
+and that he expected every moment they would board his vessel and carry her
+away: This he said when he had above thirty hands aboard. The governor
+assured him he would be answerable for us, and that he might sleep in
+quiet; though at the same time he could not help laughing at the man, as
+all the people in the town did. These assurances did not satisfy the
+captain; he used the utmost dispatch in disposing of his cargo, and put to
+sea again, not thinking himself safe till he had lost sight of the island.
+It was about three months after this that Mr Hamilton was brought in by a
+party that the governor had sent to the southward on purpose to fetch him.
+He was in a wretched condition upon his first arrival, but soon recovered
+with the good living he found here.
+
+It is usual for the governor to make a tour every year through the several
+districts belonging to his government: On this occasion he took us with
+him. The first place he visited was Carelmapo, on the main, and from thence
+to Castro. At these places he holds a kind of court, all the chief caciques
+meeting him, and informing him of what has passed since his last visit, and
+receiving fresh orders for the year to come. At Castro we had the same
+liberty we enjoyed at Chaco, and visited every body. It seemed they had
+forgot all the ceremony used upon our first landing here, which was with an
+intent to make us believe it was strongly fortified; for now they let us
+see plainly that they had neither fort nor gun. At Chaco they had a little
+earthen fort, with a small ditch palisadoed round it, and a few old
+honeycombed guns without carriages, and which do not defend the harbour in
+the least. Whilst we were at Castro, the old lady (at whose house we lay
+the first night upon leaving the Jesuits college) sent to the governor, and
+begged I might be allowed to come to her for a few weeks; this was granted,
+and accordingly I went and passed about three weeks with her very happily,
+as she seemed to be as fond of me as if I had been her own son. She was
+very unwilling to part with me again, but as the governor was soon to
+return to Chaca, he sent for me, and I left my benefactress with regret.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+
+Adventure with the Niece of an old Priest at Castro.--Superstition of the
+People.--The Lima Ship arrives, in which we depart for Valparaiso, January
+1743.--Arrival at and Treatment there.--Journey to Chili.--Arrival at St
+Jago.--Generous Conduct of a Scotch Physician.--Description of the City and
+of the People.
+
+
+Amongst the houses we visited at Castro, there was one belonging to an old
+priest, who was esteemed one of the richest persons upon the island. He had
+a niece, of whom he was extremely fond, and who was to inherit all he
+possessed. He had taken a great deal of pains with her education, and she
+was reckoned one of the most accomplished young ladies of Chiloe. Her
+person was good, though she could not be called a regular beauty. This
+young lady did me the honour to take more notice of me than I deserved, and
+proposed to her uncle to convert me, and afterwards begged his consent to
+marry me. As the old man doated upon her, he readily agreed to it; and
+accordingly, on the next visit I made him, acquainted me with the young
+lady's proposal, and his approbation of it, taking me at the same time into
+a room where there were several chests and boxes, which he unlocked, first
+shewing me what a number of fine clothes his niece had, and then his own
+wardrobe, which he said should be mine at his death. Amongst other things,
+he produced a piece of linen, which he said should immediately be made up
+into shirts for me. I own this last article was a great temptation to me;
+however, I had the resolution to withstand it, and made the best excuses I
+could for not accepting of the honour they intended me; for by this time I
+could speak Spanish well enough to make myself understood.
+
+Amongst other Indians who had come to meet the governor here, there were
+some caciques of those Indians who had treated us so kindly at our first
+landing upon Chiloe. One of these, a young man, had been guilty of some
+offence, and was put in irons, and threatened to be more severely punished.
+We could not learn his crime, or whether the governor did not do it in a
+great measure to shew us his power over these Indian chiefs; however, we
+were under great concern for this young man, who had been extremely kind to
+us, and begged Captain Cheap to intercede with the governor for him. This
+he did, and the cacique was released; the governor acquainted him at the
+same time, with great warmth, that it was to us only he owed it, or
+otherwise he would have made a severe example of him. The young man seemed
+to have been in no dread of farther punishment, as I believe he felt all a
+man could do from the indignity of being put in irons in the public square,
+before all his brother caciques and many hundreds of other Indians. I
+thought this was not a very politic step of the governor, as the cacique
+came after to Captain Cheap to thank him for his goodness, and in all
+probability would remember the English for some time after; and not only
+he, but all the other caciques who had been witnesses of it, and who seemed
+to feel, if possible, even more than the young man himself did.
+
+We now returned to Chaco, and the governor told us, when the annual ship
+came, which they expected in December, we should be sent in her to Chili.
+We felt several earthquakes while we were here. One day, as I happened to
+be upon a visit at a house where I was very well acquainted, an Indian came
+in, who lived at many leagues distance from this town, and who had made
+this journey in order to purchase some little trifles he wanted; amongst
+other things, he had bought some prints of saints. Very proud of these, he
+produced them, and put them into the hands of the women, who very devoutly
+first crossed themselves with them, and afterwards kissed them; then gave
+them to me, saying at the same time, they supposed such a heretic as I was
+would refuse to kiss them. They were right in their conjectures; I returned
+them to the Indian without going through that ceremony. At that very
+instant there happened a violent shock of an earthquake, which they imputed
+entirely to the anger of the saints; and all quitted the house as fast as
+they could, lest it should fall upon their heads. For my part, I made the
+best of my way home for fear of being knocked on the head when out of the
+house by the rabble, who looked on me as the cause of all this mischief,
+and did not return to that house again till I thought this affair was
+forgotten.
+
+Here is a very good harbour; but the entrance is very dangerous for those
+who are unacquainted with it, as the tides are so extremely rapid, and
+there are sunken rocks in the midchannel. The island is above seventy
+leagues round, and the body of it lies in about 40 deg. 20 min. south, and
+is the most southern settlement the Spaniards have in these seas. Their
+summer is of no long duration, and most of the year round they have hard
+gales of wind and much rain. Opposite the island, upon the Cordilleras,
+there is a volcano, which at times burns with great fury, and is subject to
+violent eruptions. One of these alarmed the whole island whilst we were
+there; it sounded in the night like great guns. In the morning, the
+governor mounted his horse, and rode backwards and forwards from his house
+to the earthen fort, saying it was the English coming in, but that he would
+give them a warm reception; meaning, I suppose, that he would have left
+them a good fire in his house, for I am certain he would soon have been in
+the woods if he had seen any thing like an English ship coming in.
+
+Women of the first fashion here seldom wear shoes or stockings in the
+house, but only keep them to wear upon particular occasions. I have often
+seen them coming to the church, which stood opposite to the governor's
+house, bare-legged, walking through mud and water, and at the church-door
+put on their shoes and stockings, and pull them off again when they came
+out. Though they are in general handsome, and have good complexions, yet
+many of them paint in so ridiculous a manner, that it is impossible to help
+laughing in their faces when you see them.
+
+The governor we found here was a native of Chili. The government, which is
+appointed by that presidency, is for three years, which appears to be a
+long banishment to them, as their appointments are but small, though they
+make the most of it. The towns of Castro and Chaco consist only of
+scattered houses, without a regular street, though both have their places
+or squares, as almost all Spanish towns have. Chaco is very thinly
+inhabited, excepting at the time the Lima ship arrives; then they flock
+thither from all parts of the island to purchase what little matters they
+want, and as soon as that is done, retire to their estancias or farms.
+
+It was about the middle of December this ship came in, and the second of
+January, 1742-3, we embarked on board of her. She was bound to Valparaiso.
+We got out to sea with some difficulty, having been driven by the strength
+of the tide very near those sunken rocks mentioned before. We found a great
+sea without; and as the ship was as deep as any laden collier, her decks
+were continually well washed. She was a fine vessel, of about two hundred
+and fifty-tons. The timber the ships of this country are built of is
+excellent, as they last a prodigious time; for they assured us that the
+vessel we were then in had been built above forty years. The captain was a
+Spaniard, and knew not the least of sea affairs; the second captain, or
+master, the boatswain, and his mate, were all three Frenchmen, and very
+good seamen; the pilot was a Mulatto, and all the rest of the crew were
+Indians and negroes. The latter were all slaves and stout fellows, but
+never suffered to go aloft, lest they should fall overboard, and the owners
+lose so much money by it. The Indians were active, brisk men, and very good
+seamen for that climate. We had on board the head of the Jesuits as
+passenger. He and Captain Cheap were admitted into the great cabin, and
+messed with the captain and his chaplain. As for us, we were obliged to
+rough it the whole passage, that is, when we were tired we lay down upon
+the quarter-deck in the open air, and slept as well as we could; but that
+was nothing to us, who had been used to fare so much worse. We lived well,
+eating with the master and boatswain, who always had their meals upon the
+quarter-deck, and drank brandy at them as we do small-beer, and all the
+rest of the day were smoking segars.
+
+The fifth day we made the land four or five leagues to the southward of
+Valparaiso, and soon after falling calm, a great western swell hurried us
+in very fast towards the shore. We dropped the lead several times, but had
+such deep water we could not anchor. They were all much alarmed when the
+Jesuit came out of the cabin for the first time, having been sea-sick the
+whole passage. As soon as he was informed of the danger, he went back into
+the cabin and brought out the image of some saint, which he desired might
+be hung up in the mizen-shrouds; which being done, he kept threatening it,
+that if we had not a breeze of wind soon, he would certainly throw it
+overboard. Soon after, we had a little wind from off the land, when the
+Jesuit carried the image back with an air of great triumph, saying he was
+certain that we should not be without wind long, though he had given
+himself over for lost some time before it came. Next morning we anchored in
+the port of Valparaiso. In that part which is opposite to the fort, ships
+lay so near the land, that they have generally three anchors ashore, as
+there is eight or ten fathom close to it; and the flaws come off the hills
+with such violence, that if it was not for this method of securing them
+they would be blown out. This is only in summer-time, for in the winter
+months no ships ever attempt to come in here; the northerly winds then
+prevail, and drive in such a sea that they must soon be ashore.
+
+The Spanish captain waited upon the governor of the fort, and informed him
+that he had four English prisoners on board. We were ordered ashore in the
+afternoon, and were received as we got upon the beach by a file of soldiers
+with their bayonets fixed, who surrounded us, and then marched up to the
+fort, attended by a numerous mob. We were carried before the governor,
+whose house was full of officers. He was blind, asked a few questions, and
+then spoke of nothing but the strength of the garrison he commanded, and
+desired to know if we had observed that all the lower battery was brass
+guns. We were immediately after, by his order, put into the condemned hole.
+There was nothing but four bare walls, excepting a heap of lime that filled
+one third of it, and made the place swarm with fleas in such a manner that
+we were presently covered with them. Some of Admiral Pizarro's soldiers
+were here in garrison that had been landed from his ships at Buenos Ayres,
+as he could not get round Cape Horn. A centinel's box was placed at our
+door, and we had always a soldier with his bayonet fixed to prevent our
+stirring out. The curiosity of the people was such, that our prison was
+continually full from morning till night, by which the soldiers made a
+pretty penny, as they took money from every person for the sight.
+
+In a few days, Captain Cheap and Mr Hamilton were ordered up to St Jago, as
+they were known to be officers by having saved their commissions; but Mr
+Campbell and I were to continue in prison. Captain Cheap expressed great
+concern when he left us; he told me it was what he had all along dreaded,
+that they would separate us when we got into this country; but he assured
+me, if he was permitted to speak to the president, that he would never
+leave soliciting him till he obtained a grant for me to be sent up to him.
+No sooner were they gone than we fared very badly. A common soldier, who
+was ordered to provide for us by the governor, brought us each, once a day,
+a few potatoes mixed with hot water. The other soldiers of the garrison, as
+well as the people who flocked to see us, took notice of it, and told the
+soldier it was cruel to treat us in that manner. His answer was, "The
+governor allows me but half a real a day for each of these men; what can I
+do? It is he that is to blame; I am shocked every time I bring them this
+scanty pittance, though even that could not be provided for the money he
+gives them."
+
+We from this time lived much better, and the soldier brought us even wine
+and fruit. We took it for granted that our case had been represented to the
+governor, and that he had increased our pay. As to the first, we were right
+in our conjectures; it had been mentioned to him, that it was impossible we
+could subsist on what he allowed; and his answer to it was, that we might
+starve, for we should have no more from him, and that he believed he should
+never be repaid even that. This charitable speech of the governor was made
+known everywhere, and now almost every one who came to see us gave us
+something; even the mule-drivers would take out their tobacco-pouch, in
+which they kept their money, and give us half a real. All this we would
+have given to our soldier, but he never would receive a farthing from us,
+telling us we might still want it; and the whole time we were there, which
+was some weeks, he laid aside half his daily pay to supply us, though he
+had a wife and six children, and never could have the least hope or
+expectation of any recompence. However, two years after this I had the
+singular pleasure of making him some return, when my circumstances were
+much better than his.
+
+One night, when we were locked up, there happened a dreadful shock of an
+earthquake. We expected every moment the roof and walls of our prison to
+fall in upon us and crush us to pieces; and what added to the horror of it
+was, the noise of chains and imprecations in the next prison which joined
+to ours, where there were near seventy felons heavily loaded with irons,
+who are kept here to work upon the fortifications, as in other countries
+they are condemned to the gallies. A few days after this, we were told an
+order was come from the president to the governor to send us up to St Jago,
+which is ninety miles from Valparaiso, and is the capital of Chili. There
+were at this time several ships in the port from Lima delivering their
+cargoes, so that almost every day there were large droves of mules going up
+to St Jago with the goods. The governor sent for one of the master
+carriers, and ordered him to take us up with him. The man asked him how he
+was to be paid our expences, as he should be five days upon the road. The
+governor told him he might get that as he could, for he would not advance
+him a single farthing.
+
+After taking leave of our friendly soldier, who even now brought us some
+little matters to carry with us, we set out, and travelled about fourteen
+miles the first day, and lay at night in the open field, which is always
+the custom of these people, stopping where there is plenty of pasture and
+good water for the mules. The next morning we passed over a high mountain
+called Zapata; and then crossing a large plain, we passed another mountain,
+very difficult for the mules, who each carried two heavy bales: There were
+above an hundred in this drove. The mules of Chili are the finest in the
+world; and though they are continually upon the road, and have nothing but
+what they pick up at night, they are as fat and sleek as high-fed horses in
+England. The fourth night we lay upon a plain in sight of St Jago, and not
+above four leagues from it.
+
+The next day, as we moved towards the city, our master-carrier, who was
+naturally well-disposed, and had been very kind to us all the way upon the
+road, advised me, very seriously, not to think of remaining in St Jago,
+where he said there was nothing but extravagance, vice, and folly, but to
+proceed on with them as mule-driver, which, he said, I should soon be very
+expert at; and that they led an innocent and happy life, far preferable to
+any enjoyment such a great city as that before us could afford. I thanked
+him, and told him I was very much obliged to him, but that I would try the
+city first, and if I did not like it, I would accept of the offer he was so
+good as to make me. The thing that gave him this high opinion of me was,
+that as he had been so civil to us, I was very officious in assisting to
+drive in those mules that strayed from the rest upon those large plains we
+passed over; and this I thought was the least I could do towards making
+some returns for the obligations we were under to him.
+
+When we got into St Jago, the carrier delivered us to the captain of the
+guard at the palace gate, and he soon after introduced us to the president,
+Don Joseph Manso, who received us very civilly, and then sent us to the
+house where Captain Cheap and Mr Hamilton were. We found them extremely
+well lodged at the house of a Scotch physician, whose name was Don Patricio
+Gedd. This gentleman had been a long time in this city, and was greatly
+esteemed by the Spaniards, as well for his abilities in his profession as
+his humane disposition. He no sooner heard that there were four English
+prisoners arrived in that country, than he waited upon the president, and
+begged they might be lodged at his house. This was granted, and had we been
+his own brothers we could not have met with a more friendly reception; and
+during two years that we were with him, his constant study was to make
+every thing as agreeable to us as possible. We were greatly distressed to
+think of the expence he was at upon our account, but it was in vain for us
+to argue with him about it. In short, to sum up his character in a few
+words, there never was a man of more extensive humanity.
+
+Two or three days after our arrival, the president sent Mr Campbell and me
+an invitation to dine with him, where we were to meet Admiral Pizarro and
+all his officers. This was a cruel stroke upon us, as we had not any
+clothes fit to appear in, and dared not refuse the invitation. The next
+day, a Spanish officer belonging to Admiral Pizarro's squadron, whose name
+was Don Manuel de Guiror, came and made us an offer of two thousand
+dollars. This generous Spaniard made this offer without any view of ever
+being repaid, but purely out of a compassionate motive of relieving us in
+our present distress. We returned him all the acknowledgments his uncommon
+generous behaviour merited, and accepted of six hundred dollars only, upon
+his receiving our draught for that sum upon the English consul at Lisbon.
+We now got ourselves decently clothed after the Spanish fashion, and as we
+were upon our parole, we went out where we pleased to divert ourselves.
+
+This city is situated in about 33 degrees and 30 minutes south latitude, at
+the west foot of the immense chain of mountains called the Cordilleras. It
+stands on a most beautiful plain of above thirty leagues extent. It was
+founded by Don Pedro de Baldivia, the conqueror of Chili. The plan of it
+was marked out by him, in squares, like Lima; and almost every house
+belonging to people of any fashion has a large court before it, with great
+gates, and a garden behind. There is a little rivulet, neatly faced with
+stone, runs through every street, by which they can cool the streets or
+water their gardens when they please. The whole town is extremely well
+paved. Their gardens are full of noble orange-trees and floripondies, with
+all sort of flowers, which perfume the houses and even the whole city. Much
+about the middle of it is the great square, called the Placa Real, or the
+Royal Square; there are eight avenues leading into it. The west side
+contains the cathedral and the bishop's palace; the north side is the
+president's palace, the royal court, the council house, and the prison; the
+south side is a row of piazzas, the whole length of which are shops, and
+over it a gallery to see the bull-fights; the east side has some large
+houses belonging to people of distinction, and in the middle is a large
+fountain with a brass bason. The houses have, in general, only a ground
+floor, upon account of the frequent earthquakes; but they make a handsome
+appearance. The churches are rich in gilding as well as in plate: That of
+the Jesuits is reckoned an exceeding good piece of architecture, but it is
+much too high built for a country so subject to earthquakes, and where it
+has frequently happened that thousands of people have been swallowed up at
+once.
+
+There is a hill, or rather high rock, at the east end of the city, called
+St Lucia, from the top of which you have a view of all the city and the
+country about for many leagues, affording a very delightful landscape.
+Their estancias, or country houses, are very pleasant, having generally a
+fine grove of olive trees, with large vineyards to them. The Chili wine, in
+my opinion, is full as good as Madeira, and made in such quantities that it
+is sold extremely cheap. The soil of this country is so fertile, that the
+husbandmen have very little trouble, for they do but in a manner scratch up
+the ground, and without any kind of manure it yields an hundred fold.
+Without doubt the wheat of Chili is the finest in the world, and the fruits
+are all excellent in their kinds. Beef and mutton are so cheap, that you
+may have a good cow for three dollars, and a fat sheep for two shillings.
+Their horses are extraordinary good; and though some of them go at a great
+price, you may have a very good one for four dollars, or about eighteen
+shillings of our money.
+
+It must be a very poor Indian who has not his four or five horses; and
+there are no better horsemen in the world than the Chileans, and that is
+not surprising, for they never chuse to go a hundred yards on foot. They
+have always their laco fixed to their saddle: the laco is a long thong of
+leather, at the end of which they make a sliding noose. It is of more
+general use to them than any weapon whatever, for with this they are sure
+of catching either horse or wild bull, upon full gallop, by any foot they
+please. Their horses are all trained to this, and the moment they find the
+thong straitened, as the other end is always made fast to the saddle, the
+horse immediately turns short, and throwing the beast thus caught, the
+huntsman wounds or secures him in what manner he thinks proper. These
+people are so dexterous, that they will take from the ground a glove or
+handkerchief while their horse is upon full stretch; and I have seen them
+jump upon the back of the wildest bull, and all the efforts of the beast
+could not throw them. This country produces all sorts of metals; it is
+famous for gold, silver, iron, tin, lead, and quicksilver; but some of
+these they do not understand working, especially quicksilver. With copper
+they supply all Peru, and send likewise a great deal to Europe.
+
+The climate of Chili is, I believe, the finest in the world. What they call
+their winter does not last three months, and even that is very moderate, as
+may be imagined by their manner of building, for they have no chimneys in
+their houses. All the rest of the year is delightful, for though, from ten
+or eleven in the morning till five in the afternoon, it is very hot, yet
+the evenings and mornings are very cool and pleasant; and in the hottest
+time of the year, it is from six in the evening till two or three in the
+morning that the people of this country meet to divert themselves with
+music and other entertainments, at which there is plenty of cooling
+liquors, as they are well supplied with ice from the neighbouring
+Cordilleras. At these assemblies many intrigues are carried on: for they
+think of nothing else throughout the year.
+
+Their fandangoes are very agreeable; the women dance inimitably well, and
+very gracefully. They are all born with an ear for music, and most of them
+have delightful voices, and all play upon the guitar and harp. The latter,
+at first, appears a very awkward instrument for a woman, yet that prejudice
+is soon got over, and they far excel any other nation upon it. They are
+extremely complaisant and polite; and when asked either to play, dance, or
+sing, they do it without a moment's hesitation, and that with an exceeding
+good grace. They have many figure-dances, but what they take most delight
+in, are more like our hornpipes than any thing else I can compare them to;
+and upon these occasions they shew surprising activity. The women are
+remarkably handsome, and very extravagant in their dress. Their hair, which
+is as thick as is possible to be conceived, they wear of a vast length,
+without any other ornament upon the head than a few flowers; they plait it
+behind in four plaits, and twist them round a bodkin, at each end of which
+is a diamond rose. Their shifts are all over lace, as is a little tight
+waistcoat they wear over them. Their petticoats are open before, and lap
+over, and have commonly three rows of very rich lace of gold or silver. In
+winter, they have an upper waistcoat of cloth of gold or silver, and in
+summer, of the finest linen, covered all over with the finest Flanders
+lace. The sleeves of these are immensely wide. Over all this, when the air
+is cool, they have a mantle, which is only of bays, of the finest colours,
+round which there is abundance of lace. When they go abroad, they wear a
+veil, which is so contrived that one eye is only seen. Their feet are very
+small, and they value themselves as much upon it as the Chinese do. Their
+shoes are pinked and cut; their stockings silk, with gold and silver
+cloaks; and they love to have the end of an embroidered garter hang a
+little below the petticoat. Their breasts and shoulders are very naked;
+and, indeed, you may easily discern their whole shape by their manner of
+dress. They have fine sparkling eyes, ready wit, a great deal of good
+nature, and a strong disposition to gallantry.
+
+By the description of one house you have an idea of all the rest. You first
+come into a large court, on one side of which is the stable: you then enter
+a hall; on one side of that is a large room, about twenty feet wide, and
+near forty feet long: that side next the window is the estrado, which runs
+the whole length of the room. The estrado is a platform, raised about five
+or six inches above the fioor, and is covered with carpets and velvet
+cushions for the women to sit on, which they do, after the Moorish fashion,
+cross-legged. The chairs for the men are covered with printed leather. At
+the end of the estrado, there is an alcove, where the bed stands; and there
+is always a vast deal of the sheets hanging out, with a profusion of lace
+to them, and the same on the pillows. They have a false door to the alcove,
+which sometimes is very convenient. Besides, there are generally two other
+rooms, one within another, and the kitchen and other offices are detached
+from the house, either at one side, or at the end of the garden.
+
+The ladies are fond of having their Mulatto female slaves dressed almost as
+well as themselves in every respect, excepting jewels, in which they
+indulge themselves to the utmost extravagance. Paraguay tea, which they
+call matte, as I mentioned before, is always drunk twice a day: this is
+brought upon a large silver salver, with four legs raised upon it, to
+receive a little cup made out of a small calabash or gourd, and tipped with
+silver. They put the herb first into this, and add what sugar they please,
+and a little orange juice; and then pour hot water on them, and drink it
+immediately through the conveyance of a long silver tube, at the end of
+which there is a round strainer, to prevent the herb getting through. And
+here it is reckoned a piece of politeness for the lady to suck the tube two
+or three times first, and then give it the stranger to drink without wiping
+it. They eat every thing so highly seasoned with red pepper, that those who
+are not used to it, upon the first mouthful would imagine their throats on
+fire for an hour afterwards; and it is a common custom here, though you
+have the greatest plenty at your own table, to have two or three Mulatto
+girls come in at the time you dine, bringing, in a little silver plate,
+some of these high-seasoned ragouts, with a compliment from Donna such-a-
+one, who desires you will eat a little bit of what she has sent you, which
+must be done before her Mulatto's face, or it would be deemed a great
+affront. Had this been the fashion at Chiloe, we should never have
+offended; but sometimes here we could have wished this ceremony omitted.
+
+The president never asked any of us a second time to his table. He expected
+us once a fortnight to be at his levee, which we never failed, and he
+always received us very politely. He was a man of a very amiable character,
+and much respected by every body in Chili, and some time after we left that
+country was appointed viceroy of Peru.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+
+Account of the Bull Feasts and other Amusements.--Occurrences during nearly
+two Years Residence.--In December, 1744, we embark for Europe in the Lys
+French Frigate.--The Vessel leaky.--Dangerous Voyage.--Narrow Escape from
+English Cruizers.--Arrival in England.--Conclusion.
+
+
+We had leave, whenever we asked it, to make an excursion into the country
+for ten or twelve days at a time, which we did sometimes to a very pleasant
+spot belonging to Don Joseph Dunose, a French gentleman, and a very
+sensible well-bred man, who had married a very agreeable lady at St Jago,
+with a good fortune. We also sometimes had invitations from the Spaniards
+to their country houses. We had a numerous acquaintance in the city, and in
+general received many civilities from the inhabitants. There are a great
+many people of fashion, and very good families from Old Spain settled here.
+A lady lived next door to us, whose name was Donna Francisca Giron; and as
+my name sounded something like it, she would have it that we were
+parientes. She had a daughter, a very fine young woman, who both played and
+sung remarkably well: she was reckoned the finest voice in St Jago. They
+saw a great deal of company, and we were welcome to her house whenever we
+pleased. We were a long time in this country, but we passed it very
+agreeably. The president alone goes with four horses to his coach; but the
+common vehicle here is a calash, or kind of vis-a-vis, drawn by one mule
+only.
+
+Bull-feasts are a common diversion here, and surpass any thing of that kind
+I ever saw at Lisbon, or any where else. Indeed, it is amazing to see the
+activity and dexterity of those who attack the bulls. It is always done
+here by those only who follow it as a trade, for it is too dangerous to be
+practised as a diversion; as a proof of which, it is found, that though
+some may hold out longer than others, there are few who constantly practise
+it that die a natural death. The bulls are always the wildest that can be
+brought in from the mountains or forests, and have nothing on their horns
+to prevent their piercing a man at the first stroke, as they have at
+Lisbon. I have seen a man, when the bull came at him with the utmost fury,
+spring directly over the beast's head, and perform this feat several times,
+and at last jump on his back, and there sit a considerable time, the bull
+the whole time attempting every means to throw him. But though this
+practitioner was successful, several accidents happened while I was there.
+The ladies, at these feasts, are always dressed as fine as possible; and, I
+imagine, go rather to be admired than to receive any amusement from a sight
+that one should think would give them pain.
+
+Another amusement for the ladies here, are the nights of their great
+processions, when they go out veiled; and in that dress, they amuse
+themselves in talking to people much in the manner that is done at our
+masquerades. One night in Lent, as I was standing close to the houses while
+the procession went by, and having nothing but a thin waistcoat on under my
+cloak, and happening to have my arm out, a lady came by, and gave me a
+pinch with so good a will, that I thought she had taken the piece out; and,
+indeed, I carried the marks for a long time after. I durst not take the
+least notice of this at the time, for had I made any disturbance, I should
+have been knocked on the head. This kind lady immediately after mixed with
+the crowd, and I never could find out who had done me that favour. I have
+seen fifty or sixty penitents following these processions; they wear a long
+white garment with a long train to it, and high caps of the same, which
+fall down before and cover all their faces, having only two small holes for
+their eyes, so that they are never known. Their backs are bare, and they
+lash themselves with a cat-o'-nine-tails till the long train behind is
+covered all over with blood. Others follow them with great heavy crosses
+upon their backs, so that they groan under the weight as they walk
+barefooted, and often faint away. The streets swarm with friars of all the
+different orders. The president has always a guard at his palace regularly
+clothed. The rest of their forces consists of militia, who are numerous.
+
+All European goods are very dear. English cloth of fourteen or fifteen
+shillings a yard, sells there for ten or eleven dollars, and every other
+article in proportion. We found many Spaniards here that had been taken by
+Commodore Anson, and had been for some time prisoners on board the
+Centurion.. They all spoke in the highest terms of the kind treatment they
+had received; and it is natural to imagine, that it was chiefly owing to
+that laudable example of humanity our reception here was so good. They had
+never had any thing but privateers and buccaneers amongst them before, who
+handled their prisoners very roughly, so that the Spaniards in general,
+both of Peru and Chili, had the greatest dread of being taken by the
+English; but some of them told us, that they were so happy on board the
+Centurion, that they should not have been sorry if the commodore had taken
+them with him to England.
+
+After we had been here some time, Mr Campbell changed his religion, and of
+course left us. At the end of two years, the president sent for us, and
+informed us a French ship from Lima, bound to Spain, had put into
+Valparaiso, and that we should embark in her. After taking leave of our
+good friend Mr Gedd, and all our acquaintance at St Jago, we set out for
+Valparaiso, mules and a guide being provided for us. I had forgot to say
+before, that Captain Cheap had been allowed by the president six reals a
+day, and we had four for our maintenance the whole time we were at St Jago,
+which money we took up as we wanted it. Our journey back was much
+pleasanter than we found it when we were first brought hither, as we had
+now no mules to drive. The first person I met, upon our entrance into
+Valparaiso, was the poor soldier whom I mentioned to have been so kind to
+us when we were imprisoned in the fort. I now made him a little present,
+which, as it came quite unexpected, made him very happy. We took lodgings
+till the ship was ready to sail, and diverted ourselves as we pleased,
+having the good fortune, at this time, to have nothing to do with the
+governor or his fort. The town is but a poor little place; there are,
+indeed, a good many storehouses built by the water-side for the reception
+of goods from the shipping.
+
+About the 20th of December, 1744, we embarked on board the Lys frigate,
+belonging to St Malo. She was a ship of four hundred and twenty tons,
+sixteen guns, and sixty men. She had several passengers on board, and
+amongst the rest Don George Juan, a man of very superior abilities, (and
+since that time well known in England) who, with Don Antonio Ulloa, had
+been several years in Peru, upon a design of measuring some degrees of the
+meridian near the equator. We were now bound to Conception, in order to
+join three other French ships that were likewise bound home. As this was a
+time of the year when the southerly winds prevailed upon this coast, we
+stood off a long way to the westward, making the island of Juan Fernandez.
+We did not get into the Bay of Conception till the 6th of January, 1745,
+where we anchored at Talcaguana, and there found the Louis Erasme, the
+Marquis d'Antin, and the Delivrance, the three French ships that we were to
+accompany. It is but sixty leagues from Valparaiso to Conception, though we
+had been so long making this passage; but there is no beating up, near the
+shore, against the southerly wind, which is the trade at this season, as
+you are sure to have a lee-current; so that the quickest way of making a
+passage is to stand off a hundred and twenty or thirty leagues from the
+land.
+
+The Bay of Conception is a large fine bay, but there are several shoals in
+it, and only two good anchoring places, though a ship may anchor within a
+quarter of a league of the town, but this only in the very fine months, as
+you lay much exposed. The best anchoring-place is Talcaguana, the
+southernmost neck of the bay, in five or six fathom water, good holding
+ground, and where you are sheltered from the northerly winds. The town has
+no other defence but a low battery, which only commands the anchoring-place
+before it. The country is extremely pleasant, and affords the greatest
+plenty of provisions of all kinds. In some excursions we made daily from
+Talcaguana, we saw great numbers of very large snakes, but we were told
+they were quite harmless.
+
+I have read some former accounts of Chili, by the Jesuits, wherein they
+tell you that no venomous creature is to be found in it, and that they even
+made the experiment of bringing bugs here, which died immediately, but I
+never was in any place that swarmed with them so much as St Jago; and they
+have a large spider there, whose bite is so venomous, that I have seen from
+it some of the most shocking sights I ever saw in my life; and it certainly
+proves mortal, if proper remedies are not applied in time. I was once bit
+by one on the cheek whilst asleep, and presently after all that part of my
+face turned as black as ink. I was cured-by the application of a bluish
+kind of stone (the same, perhaps, they call the serpent-stone in the East
+Indies, and which is a composition.) The stone stuck for some time of
+itself on my face, and dropping off, was put into milk till it had digested
+the poison it had extracted, and then applied again till the pain abated,
+and I was soon afterwards well.
+
+Whilst the ships remained at Conception, the people were employed in
+killing of cattle and salting them for the voyage, and every ship took on
+board as many bullocks and sheep as their decks could well hold, and having
+completed their business here, they sailed the 27th of January; but about
+eight days after our ship sprung a very dangerous leak forward, but so low,
+that there was no possibility of stopping it without returning into port,
+and lightening her till they could come at it. Accordingly we separated
+from the other ships, and made the best of our way for Valparaiso, keeping
+all hands at the pump night and day, passengers and all. However, as it
+happened, this proved a lucky circumstance for the Lys, as the three other
+ships were taken, and which certainly would have been her fate likewise had
+she kept company with the rest. As soon as we got into port, they lightened
+the ship forwards, and brought her by the stern till they came at the leak,
+which was soon, stopped. They made all the dispatch possible in completing
+the water again. Whilst at Valparaiso, we had one of the most violent
+shocks of an earthquake that we had ever felt yet.
+
+On the first of March we put to sea again, the season being already far
+advanced for passing Cape Horn. The next day we went to an allowance of a
+quart of water a day for each man, which continued the whole passage. We
+were obliged to stand a long way to the westward, and went to the northward
+of Juan Fernandez above a degree, before we had a wind that we could make
+any southing with. On the 25th, in the latitude of 46 degrees, we met with
+a violent hard gale at west, which obliged us to lie-to under a reefed
+mainsail for some days, and before we got round the cape, we had many very
+hard gales, with a prodigious sea and constant thick snow; and after being
+so long in so delightful a climate as Chili, the cold was almost
+insupportable. After doubling the cape, we got but slowly to the northward;
+and indeed, at the best of times, the ship never went above six knots, for
+she was a heavy-going thing. On the 27th of May we crossed the Line, when
+finding that our water was grown extremely short, and that it would be
+almost impossible to reach Europe without a supply, it was resolved to bear
+away for Martinico. On the 29th of June, in the morning, we made the island
+of Tobago, and then shaped a course for Martinico, and on the first of
+July, by our reckonings, expected to see it, but were disappointed. This
+was imputed to the currents, which, whether they had set the ship to the
+eastward or westward, nobody could tell; but, upon looking over the charts,
+it was imagined, if the current had driven her to the westward, it must
+have been among the Granadillos, which was thought impossible without
+seeing any of them, as they are so near together, and a most dangerous
+place for rocks. It was then concluded we were to the eastward, and
+accordingly we steered S.W. by W.; but having run this course for above
+thirty leagues, and no land appearing, it was resolved to stand to the
+northward till we should gain the latitude of Porto Rico, and on the 4th in
+the evening we made that island, so that it was now certain the ship had
+been hustled through the Granadillos in the night, which was, without
+doubt, as extraordinary a passage as ever ship made.
+
+It was now resolved to go between the islands of Porto Rico and St. Domingo
+for Cape Francois, therefore we lay-to that night. In the morning, we made
+sail along shore; and about ten o'clock, as I was walking the quarter-deck,
+Captain Cheap came out of the cabin, and told me he had just seen a beef-
+barrel go by the ship, that he was sure it had but lately been thrown
+overboard, and that he would venture any wager we saw an English cruizer
+before long. In about half an hour after, we saw two sail to leeward from,
+off the quarter-deck, for they kept no look-out from the mast-head, and we
+presently observed they were in chace of us. The French and Spaniards on
+board now began to grow a good deal alarmed, when it fell stark calm, but
+not before the ships had neared us so much, that we plainly discerned them
+to be English men of war, the one a two-decker, the other a twenty-gun
+ship. The French had now thoughts, when a breeze should spring up, of
+running the ship on shore upon Porto Rico; but when they came to consider
+what a set of banditti inhabited that island, and that in all probability
+they would have their throats cut for the sake of plundering the wreck,
+they were resolved to take their chance, and stand to the northward between
+the two islands.
+
+In the evening, a fresh breeze sprung up, and we shaped a course
+accordingly. The two ships had it presently afterwards, and neared us
+amazingly fast. Now every body on board gave themselves up; the officers
+were busy in their cabins filling their pockets with what was most
+valuable; the men put on their best clothes, and many of them came to me
+with little lumps of gold, desiring I would take them, as they said they
+had much rather I should benefit by them, whom they were acquainted with,
+than those that chaced them. I told them there was time enough, though I
+thought they were as surely taken as if the English had been already on
+board. A fine moonlight night came on, and we expected every moment to see
+the ships alongside of us; but we saw nothing of them in the night, and to
+our great astonishment in the morning no ships were to be seen even from
+the mast-head. Thus did these two cruizers lose one of the richest prizes
+by not chasing an hour or two longer. There were near two millions of
+dollars on board, besides a valuable cargo.
+
+On the eighth, at six in the morning, we were off Cape La Grange; and, what
+is very remarkable, the French at Cape Francois told us afterwards that was
+the only day they ever remembered since the war, that the cape had been
+without one or two English privateers cruising off it; and but the evening
+before two of them had taken two outward-bound St Domingo-men, and had gone
+with them for Jamaica, so that this ship might be justly esteemed a most
+lucky one. In the afternoon we came to an anchor in Cape Francois harbour.
+
+In this long run we had not buried a single man, nor do I remember that
+there was one sick the whole passage, but at this place many were taken
+ill, and three or four died, for there is no part of the West Indies more
+unhealthy than this; yet the country is beautiful, and extremely well
+cultivated. After being here some time, the governor ordered us to wait
+upon him, which we did, when he took no more notice of us than if we had
+been his slaves, never asking us even to sit down.
+
+Towards the end of August, a French squadron of five men of war came in,
+commanded by Monsieur L'Etanducre, who were to convoy the trade to France.
+Neither he nor his officers ever took any kind of notice of Captain Cheap,
+though we met them every day ashore. One evening, as we were going aboard
+with the captain of our ship, a midshipman belonging to Monsieur
+L'Etanducre jumped into our boat, and ordered the people to carry him on
+board the ship he belonged to, leaving us to wait upon the beach for two
+hours before the boat returned.
+
+On the sixth of September, we put to sea, in company with the five men of
+war and about fifty sail of merchantmen. On the eighth, we made the Cayco
+Grande; and the next day a Jamaica privateer, a large fine sloop, hove in
+sight, keeping a little to windward of the convoy, resolving to pick up one
+or two of them in the night if possible. This obliged Monsieur L'Etanducre
+to send a frigate to speak to all the convoy, and order them to keep close
+to him in the night, which they did, and in such a manner, that sometimes
+seven or eight of them were on board one another together, by which they
+received much damage; and to repair which, the whole squadron was obliged
+to lay-to sometimes for a whole day. The privateer kept her station,
+jogging on with the fleet. At last, the commodore ordered two of his best
+going ships to chace her. She appeared to take no notice of them till they
+were pretty near her, and then would make sail and be out of sight
+presently. The chacing ships no sooner returned, than the privateer was in
+company again.
+
+As by this every night some accident happened to some of the convoy by
+keeping so close together, a fine ship of thirty guns belonging to
+Marseilles, hauled out a little to windward of the rest of the fleet, which
+L'Etanducre perceiving in the morning, ordered the frigate to bring the
+captain of her on board of him; and then making a signal for all the convoy
+to close to him, he fired a gun, and hoisted a red flag at the ensign
+staff, and immediately after the captain of the merchantman was run up to
+the main-yard-arm, and from thence ducked three times. He was then sent on
+board his ship again, with orders to keep his colours flying the whole day,
+in order to distinguish him from the rest. We were then told, that the
+person who was treated in this cruel manner was a young man of an exceeding
+good family in the south of France, and likewise a man of great spirit, and
+that he would not fail to call Monsieur L'Etanducre to an account when an
+opportunity should offer; and the affair made much noise in France
+afterwards. One day, the ship we were in happened to be out of her station,
+by sailing so heavily, when the commodore made the signal to speak to our
+captain, who seemed frightened out of his wits. When we came near him, he
+began with the grossest abuse, threatening our captain, that if ever he was
+out of his station again, he would serve him as he had done the other. This
+rigid discipline, however, preserved the convoy; for though the privateer
+kept company a long time, she was not so fortunate as to meet with the
+reward of her perseverance.
+
+On the 27th of October, in the evening, we made Cape Ortegal, and on the
+31st came to an anchor in Brest road. The Lys, having so valuable a cargo
+on board, was towed into the harbour next morning, and lashed alongside one
+of their men of war. The money was soon landed; and the officers and men,
+who had been so many years absent from their native country, were glad to
+get on shore. Nobody remained on board but a man or two to look after the
+ship, and we three English prisoners, who had no leave to go ashore. The
+weather was extremely cold, and felt particularly so to us, who had been so
+long used to hot climates; and what made it still worse, we were very
+thinly clad. We had neither fire nor candle, for they were allowed on board
+of no ship in the harbour for fear of accidents, being close to their
+magazines in the dock-yard. Some of the officers belonging to the ship were
+so kind as to send us off victuals every day, or we might have starved, for
+Monsieur L'Intendant never sent us even a message; and though there was a
+very large squadron of men of war fitting out at that time, not one officer
+belonging to them ever came near Captain Cheap. From five in the evening we
+were obliged to sit in the dark; and if we chose to have any supper, it was
+necessary to place it very near us before that time, or we never could have
+found it.
+
+We had passed seven or eight days in this melancholy manner, when one
+morning a kind of row-galley came alongside with a number of English
+prisoners belonging to two large privateers the French had taken. We were
+ordered into the same boat with them, and were carried four leagues up the
+river to Landernaw. At this town we were upon our parole, so took the best
+lodgings we could get, and lived very well for three months, when an order
+came from the court of Spain to allow us to return home by the first ship
+that offered. Upon this, hearing there was a Dutch ship at Morlaix ready to
+sail, we took horses and travelled to that town, where we were obliged to
+remain six weeks before we had an opportunity of getting away. At last we
+agreed with the master of a Dutch dogger to land us at Dover, and paid him
+beforehand.
+
+When we had got down the river into the road, a French privateer that was
+almost ready to sail upon a cruize, hailed the Dutchman, and told him to
+come to an anchor, and that if he offered to sail before him he would sink
+him. This he was forced to comply with, and lay three days in the road,
+cursing the Frenchman, who at the end of that time put to sea, and then we
+were at liberty to do the same. We had a long uncomfortable passage. About
+the ninth day, before sunset, we saw Dover, and reminded the Dutchman of
+his agreement to land us there. He said he would, but instead of that in
+the morning we were off the coast of France. We complained loudly of this
+piece of villainy, and insisted upon his returning to land us, when an
+English man of war appeared to windward, and presently bore down, to us.
+She sent her boat on board with an officer, who informed us that the ship
+he came from was the Squirrel, commanded by Captain Masterton. We went on
+board of her, and Captain Masterton immediately sent one of the cutters he
+had with him to land us at Dover, where we arrived that afternoon, and
+directly set out for Canterbury upon post-horses; but Captain Cheap was so
+tired by the time he got there, that he could proceed no farther that
+night.
+
+The next morning he still found himself so much fatigued, that he could
+ride no longer; therefore it was agreed that he and Mr Hamilton should take
+a post-chaise, and that I should ride: but here an unlucky difficulty was
+started, for upon sharing the little money we had, it was found to be not
+sufficient to pay the charges to London; and my proportion fell so short,
+that it was, by calculation, barely enough to pay for horses, without a
+farthing for eating a bit upon the road, or even for the very turnpikes.
+Those I was obliged to defraud, by riding as hard as I could through them
+all, not paying the least regard to the men, who called out to stop me. The
+want of refreshment I bore as well as I could.
+
+When I got to the Borough, I took a coach and drove to Marlborough-street,
+where my friends had lived when I left England; but when I came there, I
+found the house shut up. Having been absent so many years, and in all that
+time never having heard a word from home, I knew not who was dead or who
+was living, or where to go next, or even how to pay the coachman. I
+recollected a linen-draper's shop, not far from thence, which our family
+had used. I therefore drove there next, and making myself known, they paid
+the coachman. I then enquired after our family, and was told my sister had
+married Lord Carlisle, and was at that time in Soho-square. I immediately
+walked to the house, and knocked at the door; but the porter not liking my
+figure, which was half French half Spanish, with the addition of a large
+pair of boots covered with dirt, he was going to shut the door in my face,
+but I prevailed with him to let me come in.
+
+I need not acquaint my readers with what surprise and joy my sister
+received me. She immediately furnished me with money sufficient to appear
+like the rest of my countrymen; and till that time I could not be properly
+said to have finished all the extraordinary scenes which a series of
+unfortunate adventures had kept me in for the space of five years and
+upwards.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+A VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH-SEAS, IN THE YEARS 1740, AND 1741:
+
+CONTAINING
+
+A faithful NARRATIVE of the Loss of his Majesty's Ship the WAGER, on a
+desolate Island in the Latitude 47 South, Longitude 81: 40 West: With the
+Proceedings and Conduct of the Officers and Crew, and the Hardships they
+endured in the said Island for the Space of five Months; their bold Attempt
+for Liberty, in coasting the Southern Part of the vast Region of Patagonia;
+setting out with upwards of eighty Souls in their Boats; the Loss of the
+Cutter; their Passage through the Streights of Magellan; an Account of
+their Manner of Living in the Voyage on Seals, Wild Horses, Dogs, &c. and
+the incredible Hardships they frequently underwent for want of Food of any
+Kind; a Description of the several Places where they touched in the
+Streights of Magellan, with an Account of the Inhabitants, &c. and their
+safe Arrival to the Brazil, after sailing one thousand Leagues in a Long-
+boat; their Reception from the Portuguese; an Account of the Disturbances
+at Rio Grand; their Arrival at Rio Janeiro; their Passage and Usage on
+board a Portuguese Ship to Lisbon; and their Return to England.
+
+Interspersed with many entertaining and curious Observations, not taken
+Notice of by Sir John Narborough, or any other Journalist:
+
+
+_The Whole compiled by Persons concerned in the Facts related_, viz.
+
+JOHN BULKELEY AND JOHN CUMMINS,
+
+Late Gunner and Carpenter of the WAGER.
+
+
+
+_Bold were the Men who on the Ocean first
+Spread the new Sails, when Shipwreck was the worst;
+More Dangers now from Man alone we find,
+Than from the Rocks, the Billows, and the Wind_. WALLER.[119]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+BULKELEYS NARRATIVE.
+
+
+
+
+TO THE HONOURABLE EDWARD VERNON, ESQ. VICE-ADMIRAL OF THE BLUE, &c.
+
+
+Sir,
+
+We have presumed to put the following sheets under your protection, though
+we have not the honour of being personally known to you, nor have applied
+to you for the liberty of using your celebrated name on this occasion.
+
+As this book is a faithful extract from the journals of two British seamen,
+late officers in his majesty's navy, we thought we could not more properly
+dedicate it than to a British Admiral.
+
+We know your detestation of flattery; and you know, from long experience,
+that a British seaman hath a spirit too brave to stoop to so degenerate a
+practice.
+
+The following pages, we hope, will recommend themselves to you, because
+they are written in a plain maritime style, and void of partiality and
+prejudice.
+
+The distresses mentioned in this book have perhaps not been equalled in our
+age; and we question whether any navigators living have, for so long a
+continuance, suffered such variety of hardships, as the unfortunate people
+of the Wager.
+
+After surviving the loss of the ship, and combating with famine and
+innumerable difficulties, a remnant of us are returned to our native
+country; but even here we are still unfortunate, destitute of employment,
+almost without support, or any prospect of being restored to our stations,
+till some important questions are decided, which cannot be cleared up till
+the arrival of our late captain, or at least the commodore.
+
+We, sir, who present you with this book, have been several years in the
+navy, and thought ourselves well acquainted with its laws and discipline,
+and have many certificates to produce, that we have always acted in
+obedience to command; but the proceedings of the officers and people, since
+the loss of the ship, are reckoned so dark and intricate, that we know not
+what to expect, nor what will be the result of our superiors determination.
+
+The only consolation we have in our present anxiety, is placed in a
+confidence of the unbiassed integrity, justice, and humanity of the right
+honourable persons who will one day determine for or against us.
+
+When you read our account of the affair, you'll find the facts impartially
+related, the whole narrative written without the least shadow of prejudice
+or malice, and no more in favour of ourselves, than of the other officers
+concerned: We stand or fall by the truth; if truth will not support us,
+nothing can.
+
+In our voyage from the Brazil to Lisbon, we were obliged to you for the
+generous treatment we met with from an enemy, a subject of Spain, a person
+of distinction, and a passenger in the same ship: your virtues have
+procured you the esteem even of your enemies.
+
+Your zeal for the national service deserves the love of every honest
+Briton: to leave an abundant fortune, your family, and your country, to
+hazard your life in the most perilous expeditions, with no other motive
+than to retrieve the honour of the nation, shows the spirit of a true
+British hero, and deserves the highest commendations.
+
+That you, sir, may never deviate from your integrity, but continue a terror
+to the enemies of Britain, an honour to his majesty's service, and an
+ornament to your country, are the sincere wishes of,
+
+Honourable Sir,
+Your most dutiful,
+And most obedient
+Humble Servants,
+John Bulkeley,
+John Cummins.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+BULKELEY'S NARRATIVE.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+As an Introduction, we think proper to acquaint the reader with our reasons
+for causing the following sheets to be made public to the world. The chief
+motive which induced us to this task, was to clear our characters, which
+have been exceedingly blemished by persons who, (next to Heaven) owe the
+preservation of their lives to our skill and indefatigable care; and who
+having an opportunity of arriving before us in England, have endeavoured to
+raise their reputation on the ruin of ours.
+
+It will appear to the reader, on perusal of the following pages, that this
+journal was attempted to be taken from us by violence at Rio Janeiro; that
+we have preserved it at the hazard of our lives; that there was no journal
+kept after the loss of the ship, by any officers but ourselves; and if we
+had not been careful in making remarks on each day's transactions, persons
+must have continued in the dark, in relation to all the subsequent
+proceedings.
+
+It is a very usual thing to publish voyages, especially when the navigators
+have met with any extraordinary events. We believe our expedition, though
+it was not a secret, is allowed to be an extraordinary one, consequently
+attended with extraordinary events: Indeed, while the commodore was with
+us, every thing went well; but when the squadron separated, things began to
+have a new face: After the loss of the Wager, there was a general disorder
+and confusion among the people, who were now no longer implicitly obedient.
+There were two seamen particularly, who propagated this confusion, they
+said they had suffered shipwreck in his majesty's ship the Biddeford, and
+received no wages from the day that the ship was lost; that when they were
+out of pay, they looked upon themselves as their own masters, and no longer
+subjected to command. The people, however, were not altogether infected,
+but still continued to pay a dutiful respect to their commander; but when
+the captain had rashly shot Mr Cozens, (whose fate the reader will find
+particularly related) they then grew very turbulent and unruly; the captain
+daily lost the love of the men, who with their affection lost their duty.
+
+Our confining the captain is thought an audacious and unprecedented action,
+and our not bringing him home with us is reckoned worse; but the reader
+will find that necessity absolutely compelled us to act as we did, and that
+we had sufficient reasons for leaving him behind.
+
+Our attempt for liberty, in sailing to the southward through the straits of
+Magellan, with such a number of people stowed in a long-boat, has been
+censured as a mad undertaking: Desperate diseases require desperate
+remedies; had we gone to the northward, there appeared no probability of
+escaping the Spaniards, and when we had fallen into their hands, 'tis not
+unlikely but they might have employed us as drudges in their mines for
+life; therefore we rather chose to encounter all difficulties than to
+become slaves to a merciless enemy.
+
+Some persons have objected against our capacity for keeping a journal of
+this nature; but several judges of maritime affairs allow this work to be
+exact and regular. We think persons with a common share of understanding,
+are capable of committing to paper daily remarks of matter worthy their
+observation, especially of facts in which they themselves had so large a
+share. We only relate such things as could not possibly escape our
+knowledge, and what we actually know to be true. We don't set up for
+naturalists and men of great learning, therefore have avoided meddling with
+things above our capacity.
+
+We are also condemned by many for being too busy and active for persons in
+our stations. There was a necessity for action, and a great deal of it too;
+and had we been as indolent and regardless for the preservation of the
+people as others who were superior in command, there would not have been a
+single man who was shipwrecked in the Wager, now in England to give any
+relation of the matter.
+
+The gentleman who commanded in the long-boat, on his arrival before us at
+Lisbon, represented us to the English merchants in a very vile light; we
+were even advised by some of our friends there not to return to our
+country, lest we would suffer death for mutiny. But when the gentlemen of
+the factory had perused our journal, they found, if there was any mutiny in
+the case, the very person who accused us was the ringleader and chief
+mutineer. We were confident of our own innocence, and determined to see our
+country at all events, being positive that we have acted to the best of our
+understandings, in all respects, for the preservation of our lives and
+liberties; and when our superiors shall think proper to call us to an
+account, which we expect will be at the commodore's arrival, we do not
+doubt but we shall clear ourselves in spite of all invidious reflections
+and malicious imputations.
+
+It has been hinted to us, as if publishing this journal would give offence
+to some persons of distinction. We can't conceive how any transactions
+relating to the Wager, although made ever so public, can give offence to
+any great man at home. Can it be any offence to tell the world that we were
+shipwrecked in the Wager, when all people know it already? Don't they know
+that the Wager was one of his majesty's store-ships? That we had on board
+not only naval stores, but other kind of stores, of an immense value? Don't
+they also know that we went abroad with hopes of acquiring great riches,
+but are return'd home as poor as beggars? We are guilty of no indecent
+reproaches, or unmannerly reflections; though, it is certain, we cannot but
+lament our being engaged in so fatal an expedition. When persons have
+surmounted great difficulties, it is a pleasure for them to relate their
+story; and if we give ourselves this satisfaction, who has any cause to be
+offended? Are we, who have faced death in so many shapes, to be
+intimidated, lest we should give offence to the--Lord knows whom? We never
+saw a satyrical journal in our lives, and we thought that kind of writing
+was the most obnoxious to give offence.
+
+It has been a thing usual, in publishing of voyages, to introduce abundance
+of fiction; and some authors have been esteemed merely for being
+marvellous. We have taken care to deviate from those, by having a strict
+regard to truth. There are undoubtedly in this book some things which will
+appear incredible.
+
+The account we give of the Patagonian Indians, and our own distresses,
+though ever so well attested, will not easily obtain credit; and people
+will hardly believe that human nature could possibly support the miseries
+that we have endured.
+
+All the difficulties related we have actually endured, and perhaps must
+endure more: Till the commodore's arrival we cannot know our fate; at
+present we are out of all employment, and have nothing to support ourselves
+and families, but the profits arising from the sale of our journal; which
+perhaps may be the sum total we shall ever receive for our voyage to the
+South Seas.
+
+
+
+
+A VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS.
+
+
+On Thursday the 18th of September, 1740, sailed from St Hellens his
+majesty's ship Centurion, Commodore Anson, with the Gloucester, Pearl,
+Severn, Wager, and Tryal, and two store-ships; this squadron was designed
+round Cape-Horn into the South Seas, to distress the Spaniards in those
+parts. The ships were all in prime order, all lately rebuilt. The men were
+elevated with hopes of growing immensely rich, and in a few years of
+returning to Old England loaden with the wealth of their enemies.
+
+Saturday, the 20th, the Ram-head bearing N. by W., distant four leagues,
+the commodore hoisted his pendant, and was saluted by every ship in the
+squadron, with thirteen guns each. This day joined company with us his
+majesty's ships Dragon, Winchester, South-Sea-Castle, and Rye-Galley, with
+a large convoy of merchant ships.
+
+Thursday, the 25th, we parted company with the Winchester and the South-
+Sea-Castle, with their convoys, bound for America.
+
+On Monday, we parted company with the Streights and Turkey convoys.
+
+Friday, October the 3d, at eight in the morning, we saw two brigantines to
+the south-east; the commodore gave a signal to chace, at nine fired two
+shots to bring 'em to, at ten spoke with the chace, being two brigs from
+Lisbon, bound for New York.
+
+Sunday, the 26th, about five in the morning, the Severn shewed lights, and
+fired several guns a-head; soon after we saw the land bearing W. by S, and
+at noon the east end of Madeira bore north, distant five leagues.
+
+Wednesday, we moored in Fonchiale road, so called from a city of that name,
+which is the metropolis of the island of Madeira; here we employed most of
+our time in getting aboard water, and stowing our dry provisions between
+decks.
+
+Tuesday, November the 4th, Captain Kidd our commander was removed on board
+the Pearl, and the Honourable Captain Murray succeeded him in the Wager.
+Captain Norris of the Gloucester having obtained leave to return to
+England, on account of his ill state of health, occasioned the above
+removals.
+
+While we lay at Madeira, we were informed of ten sail of ships cruising off
+and on, to the westward, these ships were judged to be French, and had been
+seen every day for a week before our arrival: The commodore sent out a
+privateer sloop, but she returned the day following, without seeing 'em, so
+that we can give no account of 'em.
+
+On Wednesday, the 5th, we sailed, from Madeira. On the 2Oth the Industry
+store-ship parted company, and on Friday the 28th, by account, we crossed
+the equinoctial.
+
+On the 17th of December, we saw the island of St Catharine, at noon, the
+northmost land in sight bore W.N.W., and the southmost S.W. by W. Variation
+per amplitude 12; 57 easterly.
+
+On the 18th, the north end of the island of St Catharine bore N.W. by W.,
+distant seven leagues, and the island of Gaul bore N.W., distant six
+leagues.
+
+On the 19th we anchored in St Catharine's bay, in upward of twelve fathom
+water, the island Gaul on the coast of Brazil, bearing N. by E., distant
+four leagues. On the 20th, we anchored in St Catharine's road, and the day
+following, we moored between the island of St Catharine and the main.
+
+On Monday, the 22d, the commodore ordered fresh beef for the sick people.
+
+On the 27th, came in a Portuguese brig from Rio Janeiro, for the Rio Grand:
+While we lay here, the people were generally employed in over-hauling the
+rigging, and getting aboard water.
+
+On the 17th of January, 1741, we sailed from St Catharine's, the commodore
+saluted the fort with eleven guns, the fort returned the same number.
+
+On Thursday, the 22d, we lost sight of the Pearl.
+
+On Tuesday, the 17th of February, the Pearl joined the squadron, and on the
+19th we came to anchor off the river of St Julian's, on the coast of
+Patagonia; St Julian's hill bearing S.W. by W., and the southmost land in
+sight S. by E., distant from the shore three leagues. This day our captain,
+the Honourable George Murray, took command on board the Pearl, Captain Kidd
+having died on the voyage since we left St Catharine's.
+
+Captain Kidd was heard to say, a few days before his death, that this
+voyage, which both officers and sailors had engaged in with so much
+cheerfulness and alacrity, would prove in the end very far from their
+expectations, notwithstanding the vast treasure they imagined to gain by
+it; that it would end in poverty, vermin; famine, death, and destruction.
+How far the captain's words were prophetic will appear in the course of our
+journal. Captain C--p succeeded Captain Murray on board the Wager.
+
+On the 26th of February, we sent on board the Pearl twelve butts and two
+puncheons of water, the Pearl having, while she was separated from us, been
+chased by five large Spanish men of war, the commander in chief being
+distinguished by a red broad pendant with a swallow's tail at his main-top-
+mast head, and a red flag at his ensign-staff: During the chace, the Pearl,
+in order to clear ship, threw overboard and stove fourteen tons of water;
+she likewise stove the long-boat, and threw her overboard, with oars,
+sails, and booms, and made all clear for engaging, but night coming on at
+seven o'clock lost sight of the enemy, at five in the morning saw the
+Spanish ships from the mast-head, two points on the lee-quarter, still
+giving chace, and crowding all the sail they could, but at nine the Pearl
+lost sight of 'em entirely. We judged this to be admiral Pizarro's
+squadron, sent out in pursuit of Commodore Anson. Had our ships united
+fallen in with 'em, 'tis probable we might have given a good account of
+'em. While we lay at St Julian's we saw the sea full of shrimps, and red as
+if they were boiled, the water appeared tinctured to that degree, that it
+looked like blood.
+
+On the 27th, we sent on board the Pearl four puncheons of water more; at
+six in the morning, the commodore made signal to weigh, at eight weighed,
+and came to sail; this day we lost sight of the Gloucester.
+
+The 28th, the Gloucester came into the squadron again.
+
+On the 7th of March we passed through the Streights of Le Mair; Cape Diego,
+on the island of Terra de Fuego, bore N.W., three leagues, and the west end
+of the island, Staten Land, bore E.N.E., distant four leagues, the squadron
+under reeft courses.
+
+On the 10th, we lost sight of the Ann pink, on the 12th carried away the
+rails and timbers of the head on both sides.
+
+On the 16th, the Ann pink joined the squadron again.
+
+On the 3Oth, the Gloucester broke her main-yard in the slings.
+
+April the 1st, the commodore ordered Mr Cummins, the carpenter, on board
+the Gloucester.
+
+On the 8th, carried away the mizen-mast, two feet above the awning; there
+was no sail on the mast. Upon the rowl of a sea, all the chain-plates to
+windward broke, lat. 56, 31, long. 87.4, west. At noon Cape St Bartholomew
+bore north, 84 deg. E., distant 229 leagues.
+
+The 10th, lost sight of the Severn and Pearl, lat. 56, 29, long. 85 west.
+At ten last night fell in with two small islands; at eight in the morning
+the islands bore N.N.W., by the compass distant eight leagues, in the
+latitude 54, 00 south; we took 'em for the islands which lay off Brewer's
+Streights, lat. 54, 50 south, long. 84, 56 west.
+
+On the 12th, we had very hard gales at west, with the largest swell I ever
+saw; I was officer of the watch (though I was gunner of the ship, I had the
+charge of a watch during the whole voyage); we had our larboard tacks on
+board: Between six and seven in the morning, holding by the topsail
+hallyards to wind-ward, there broke a sea in the ship, which carried me
+over the wheel, bilged the cutter, and canted her over the sheet's bottom
+up athwart the barge; it likewise half filled the long-boat; the boatswain
+was for heaving the cutter overboard, I order'd him to do nothing with her
+till I had acquainted the captain, who was then very ill in his cabin: The
+captain desired me to use all means to save the cutter; at the same time I
+ask'd leave to skuttle the long-boat, and get the sprit-sail yard and jib
+in, for fear of endangering the bowsprit; which he ordered to be done, and
+told me, it was a very great misfortune that he should be ill at such a
+time. When I came from the captain, I found the lieutenant on the deck, got
+the cutter in her place, skuttled the long-boat, and got the sprit-sail
+yard and jib-boom in. The carpenter is still aboard the Gloucester.
+
+The 13th, under reeft courses, the larboard tacks; the commodore being on
+the weather quarter, bore down under our lee, and spoke with us. He ask'd
+the captain, if the carpenter was returned from the Gloucester? The captain
+answer'd, No; and am surprised Captain M----d should detain him, when he
+knows I must want him about my mizen-mast. The commodore told him he would
+speak with the Gloucester, and order him on board. He then ask'd the
+captain why he did not set the main-top-sail, and make more sail? Captain
+C----p made answer, My rigging is all gone, and broke fore and aft, and my
+people almost all taken ill, and down; but I will set him as soon as
+possible. The commodore desired he would, and make what sail he could after
+him.
+
+The 14th, the carpenter return'd from the Gloucester, it being the only day
+this fortnight a boat could live in the sea. As soon as the carpenter came
+on board, he waited on the captain, who order'd him to look on the chain-
+plates and chains, and give his opinion of the mast's going away. The
+carpenter look'd as order'd, and gave Captain C----p for answer, that the
+chain-plates were all broke. The captain shook his head, and said,
+Carpenter, that is not the reason of the mast's going away. The carpenter,
+not willing, as the mast was gone, to lay it to any one's mismanagement, or
+to occasion any uneasiness about what was now past prevention, fitted a cap
+on the stump of the mizen-mast, got up a lower studding-sail boom of 40
+feet, and hoisted a sail to keep the ship to.
+
+To-day, being the 19th, and the finest day we had in these seas, we were
+employ'd in repairing the rigging; we bent a new main-sail and reeft him,
+as did the Anne pink, the Gloucester at the same time fix'd her main-yard,
+the commodore and Tryal keeping a-head, and at a considerable distance;
+between four and six at night saw the commodore's light. At six, being
+relieved by the master, he could not see the commodore's light, though it
+was visible to every one else on the quarter-deck: The master still
+persisted he could not see it, on which I went and acquainted the captain,
+who came upon deck, and seeing the light, ask'd the master where his eyes
+were? This was the last time I ever saw the commodore. The lieutenant
+having the first watch lost sight of him at nine o'clock, and at ten was
+obliged to hand the foresail, in doing of which we lost a seaman over-
+board. We saw the Gloucester and Anne pink a-stern in the morning, but they
+were soon gone ahead, and out of sight.
+
+The 21st, as I was in the steward's room, Joseph King, seaman, came for a
+pound of bread. I heard him ask the steward, if he thought they would be
+serv'd with the same quantity of water as before? Without waiting for an
+answer, No G--d d--n 'em, as the commodore was parted, they should find the
+difference. Not knowing the conseqence of this, or by whom the fellow might
+be spirited up, I acquainted the captain with the affair, who order'd me to
+deliver a brace of pistols charg'd with a brace of balls to every officer
+in the ship who wanted 'em, and to take no farther notice of the matter.
+
+May the 1st. This day the officers were call'd, and their opinions ask'd
+concerning the best bower-anchor, resolved to cut the anchor away, for fear
+of endangering the ship, there being no possibility of securing it without
+putting our fore-mast in extreme danger, the shrouds and chain-plates being
+all broke.
+
+Fourteen days before the loss of the ship, the wind at S. and S.S.W.,
+steered N.W. by N., and N.N.W. by the compass: Laid the ship to for the
+first four nights; the meaning of this I could not learn. I ask'd the
+lieutenant the reason of our bearing for the land on a lee shore, when we
+had a fair wind for our rendezvous, which I had always thought was for the
+island of Juan Ferdinandez. The lieutenant told me the rendezvous was
+alter'd to an island in the latitude of 44 S. Upon this I said to the
+lieutenant, this was a very great misfortune to us, that we can do nothing
+with the ship in the condition she is in upon a lee shore, and am surpriz'd
+that we should be obliged to go there. The lieutenant told me, he had said
+every thing to dissuade the captain from it, but found him determined to go
+there. The fifth night, and every night after, made sail; the wind to the
+westward. I never relieved the lieutenant, but I ask'd him, what he thought
+of a lee shore with the ship in this condition? he always reply'd, he could
+not tell. We saw rock-weed in abundance pass by the ship. The Honourable
+J---n B---n, midshipman, being on the quarter-deck, said, We can't be far
+off the land by these weeds. The lieutenant and mate being by, I said,
+Gentlemen, what can we do with the ship in the miserable condition she is
+in on a lee shore? The lieutenant answer'd, Whenever I have been with the
+captain since our first lying-to, I always persuaded him to go for Juan
+Ferdinandez; therefore I would have you go to him, he may be persuaded by
+you tho' he will not by me. I said, If that was the case, my going to him
+is needless. In a quarter of an hour afterwards, the captain sent for me,
+and said, Gunner, what longitude have you made? I told him 82,30. What
+distance do you reckon yourself off the land? I answer'd, About 60 leagues;
+but if the two islands we saw are these which are laid down in your chart
+to lie off Brewer's Streights, and the same current continues with the
+western swell, we can't be above a third part of the distance off the land.
+The captain made answer, As for the currents, there is no account to be
+given for 'em; sometimes they set one way, and sometime another. I said,
+Sir, very true, but as the ship has been always under reeft courses, and
+the mizen-mast gone, she must wholly drive to leeward, and nigher the land
+than expected. The captain then told me, I suppose you are not unacquainted
+of my rendezvous for the island of Nostra Signora di Socora, in the
+latitude of 44. I reply'd, Sir, the ship is in a very bad condition to come
+in with the lee shore, and if it is possible to bring the ship to an
+anchor, we shall never purchase him again. The captain answered, I don't
+design to come to an anchor; for there are soundings until you come within
+seven leagues of the land. I purpose to stand off and on twenty-four hours;
+and if I don't see the commodore, or any of the squadron in that time, we
+will go for Juan Ferdinandez. To this I said, Sir, the ship is a perfect
+wreck; our mizen-mast gone, with our standing rigging afore and abaft, and
+all our people down; therefore I can't see what we can do in with the land.
+The captain's answer was, It does not signify, I am obliged and determin'd
+to go for the first rendezvous.
+
+On the 13th, at eight in the morning, the straps of the fore-jeer blocks
+broke; reev'd the top ropes, and lower'd the yard; went to strapping the
+blocks. At nine, the carpenter going forward to inspect the chain-plates,
+saw the land from the fore-castle, on which he ask'd the boatswain's mate,
+who was by him, if he saw the land? he answer'd, No; the carpenter shew'd
+it him and he saw it plain. The carpenter then shew'd it to the lieutenant,
+but he would not believe it to be land, because it bore N.N.W., and said it
+was impossible; therefore he never inform'd the captain of the sight of
+land, as the Honourable Mr B----n hath heard the captain say. At two in the
+afternoon lower'd the fore-yard, and hawl'd the fore-sail up;
+notwithstanding I was officer of the watch, I was oblig'd to go upon the
+fore-yard, where was Mr Campbell, midshipman, one boatswain's mate, four
+seamen, and the master's servant, which were all the hands we could get out
+of the ship's company to assist. Whilst on the yard I saw the land very
+plain, on the lardboard beam, bearing N.W. half N., nearest high land, with
+hillocks, and one remarkable hommocoe like a sugar loaf, very high. At the
+sight of land I came off the fore-yard and acquainted the captain. He
+immediately gave orders to sway the fore-yard up, and set the fore-sail;
+then we wore ship with her head to the southward. The captain coming
+forward unhappily received a fall, which dislocated his shoulder, so that
+he was obliged to be put into the surgeon's cabin. Some time after he sent
+for the lieutenant and myself, acquainting us of the necessity there was
+for making sail, as being on a lee shore, therefore desired we would use
+our utmost endeavours to crowd the ship off. You see, gentlemen, said he,
+my misfortune will not permit me to continue on the deck; as for the
+master, he is not worthy of the charge of a watch, therefore I must desire
+you, Mr Bulkeley, to be in the watch with him, and to make but two watches;
+keep a good look-out, and if possible, set the main-top sail. Mr B----s, I
+must desire Mr Cummins to be with you, and beg you will take all the care
+you can. I having the first watch, set the main fore and mizen stay sail,
+it blew so hard I found it impossible to set the maintop sail, of which, I
+acquainted the captain: All the hands we cou'd muster in both watches,
+officers included, were but twelve, the rest of the ship's company were all
+sick below; I very often could get no more than three seamen in my watch.
+The ship for these three weeks hath been no better than a wreck, the mizen-
+mast gone, the standing rigging and chain-plates, afore and abaft, mostly
+broke and ruin'd. The top sails now at the yards are so bad, that if we
+attempt to loose'em for making sail, we are in danger of splitting'em, and
+we have not a spare sail in the ship that can be brought to the yard
+without being repair'd. This is the present deplorable situation of the
+ship. All the first and middle watch it blow'd and rain'd, and withal so
+very dark, that we could not see the length of the ship: For the greatest
+part of the night she came up no nearer than S. by W., and S.S.W. At four
+in the morning she came up with her head west, so that her head was then
+off the shore.
+
+Thursday, May the 14th, 1741, at half an hour past four this morning, the
+ship struck abaft on a sunken rock, sounded fourteen fathom; but it being
+impossible to let go the anchor time enough to bring her up, being
+surrounded on every side with rocks, (a very dismal prospect to behold!)
+the ship struck a second time, which broke the head of the tiller, so that
+we were obliged to steer her with the main and fore-sheets, by easing off
+one, and hawling aft the other, as she came to, or fell off. In a short
+time after, she struck, bilged, and grounded, between two small islands,
+where Providence directed us to such a place as we could save our lives.
+When the ship struck it was about break of day, and not above a musket-shot
+from the shore. Launched the barge, cutter, and yawl over the gunnel, cut
+main and fore-mast by the board, and the sheet-anchor from the gunnel. The
+captain sent the barge ashore, with Mr S----w, the mate, to see if the
+place was inhabited, and to return aboard directly; but, without any regard
+to his duty, or the preservation of the lives of the people, he staid
+ashore. The barge not returning as expected, the lieutenant was sent in the
+yawl, with orders to bring off the barge. The lieutenant tarried ashore,
+but sent off the boat. As soon as the boat came on board, the captain being
+very ill, was persuaded by the officers to go ashore: With the captain went
+the land-officers, mate, and midshipmen, the officers remaining on board
+were the master, boatswain, gunner, and carpenter: The boatswain, who was
+laid up a month before the loss of the ship, became of a sudden very
+vigorous and active. At night it blow'd very hard at north, with a great
+tumbling sea, we expected every moment that the ship would part, fetching
+such jirks and twistings as shock'd every person aboard, who had the least
+care for the preservation of life; yet, in the dismal situation we were in,
+we had several in the ship so thoughtless of their danger, so stupid and
+insensible of their misery, that upon the principal officers leaving her,
+they fell into the most violent outrage and disorder: They began with
+broaching the wine in the lazaretto; then to breaking open cabins and
+chests, arming themselves with swords and pistols, threatening to murder
+those who should oppose or question them: Being drunk and mad with liquor,
+they plunder'd chests and cabins for money and other things of value,
+cloathed themselves in the richest apparel they could find, and imagined
+themselves lords paramount.
+
+Friday the 15th, the ship was bilged in the mid-ship, on a great rock; we
+took care to secure some powder, ball, and a little bread. In the
+afternoon, the carpenter and myself went ashore with several of those
+imaginary lords in the rich attire they had plunder'd yesterday; but upon
+the purser, and Lieutenant Hamilton of marines, presenting pistols to some
+of their breasts, those grandees suffer'd themselves very quietly to be
+disrob'd of all their greatness, and in a few minutes look'd like a parcel
+of transported fellons. On our coming ashore, we found the captain had
+taken his lodging in a little hut, supposed to be built by Indians; as for
+our parts, we were forced to take shelter under a great tree, where we made
+a large fire, but it rain'd so hard, that it had almost cost us our lives;
+an invalid died that very night on the spot. Before I left the ship I went
+to my cabin for my journal, but could not find it; I believe it is
+destroyed with the rest, for there is not one journal to be produced, we
+have good reason to apprehend there was a person employ'd to destroy them;
+I afterwards found part of the master's journal along shore, tore to
+pieces: Whatever is related in this book, preceding the loss of the Wager,
+is extracted from a journal belonging to a gentleman, lately an officer on
+board the Pearl. After we lost sight of the Pearl, I was obliged to have
+recourse to my memory, which I believe has been very faithful to me. From
+the time we were ship-wreck'd, the carpenter and myself were exceeding
+careful in writing each day's transactions: Had other persons taken the
+same care, there would be no necessity of imposing upon the publick a
+partial and inconsistent narrative, instead of a faithful relation of
+facts.
+
+On the 16th, the weather very boisterous and a great sea, the boatswain
+wanted a boat, but finding no appearance of any coming aboard, brought a
+quarter-deck gun, a four pounder, to bear on the captain's hut, and fir'd
+two shot, which went just over the captain's tent. This day, being resolv'd
+to contrive something like a house, to secure us from the inclemency of the
+rain, and severity of the weather, we hawl'd up the cutter, and propping
+her up, we made a tolerable habitation. As for food, this island produces
+none; nor is there any vegetable upon it but cellery, which grows here in
+abundance, and is of great use to us, the men being in general very much
+troubled with the scurvy.
+
+On the 17th of May, being Whitsunday, got several wild fowls, and plenty of
+muscles, limpets, and other shell-fish, which we find very refreshing,
+having subsisted a long time on nothing but salt provisions.
+
+The 18th, went on board the ship, to see if it was possible to come at any
+provisions; got out of the Lazaretto two casks of flour and some wine,
+which were very useful.
+
+On the 19th, went aboard again to scuttle the decks, in order to get some
+beef and pork out of the hold; we also scuttled the carpenter's store-room
+for nails and other things of service.
+
+The 20th, cut away the gunnel to get the long-boat out, which was done. To-
+day we found several men dead, and some drowned, in the ship, suppos'd to
+have drank till they were not able to get from the water, as it flowed into
+the ship. While we were aboard working on the wreck, there came along-side
+a canoe with several Indians, bowing and crossing themselves, giving us to
+understand they were inclinable to the Romish religion; we gave 'em out of
+the ship two bales of cloth and sent them ashore to the captain, he gave
+them hats, and presented each of them with a soldier's coat. They had
+abundance of the largest and best muscles I ever saw, or tasted. This day
+was the first time of the boatswain's coming ashore; the captain called him
+rogue and villain, and felled him to the ground with his cane, so that he
+was motionless, and to appearance dead; when he had recovered the blow, and
+saw a cock'd pistol in the captain's hand, he offered his naked breast; the
+captain told him, he deserved to be shot, and said no more to him. The
+captain, lieutenant H--n of marines, the surgeon, and purser, always
+appear'd in arms on the beach, on the coming ashore of every boat, in order
+to prevent the people bringing any thing from the ship in a clandestine
+manner; they were so cautious of any thing being imbezzled, that they would
+not suffer the boats to go off and work by night, notwithstanding the moon,
+tides, and fairness of weather were more favourable to us by night than
+day; by this we omitted several opportunities of getting our provisions,
+and other useful things, which we shall shortly stand in great need of.
+
+The 21st, continue to scuttle between decks, in getting necessaries out of
+the ship, found several men dead.
+
+The 22d, the Indians brought us three sheep and some muscles. They are a
+people of a small stature, well shaped, of an olive complection, with black
+hair, in behaviour very civil, they have little clothes, except about their
+waists, notwithstanding the climate is very cold. They stay'd all night, it
+being very rainy weather, and has been ever since we have been here, the
+wind blowing from N. to N.W.
+
+Saturday the 23d, the wind from the E.N.E. to north, fell abundance of
+snow, insomuch that the mountains are cover'd with it. It freezes very
+hard, and we find it extremely cold. The next day, the same weather, we
+went aboard, and scuttled for flour in the forehold.
+
+The 25th, little wind at N.E. and frosty weather, went aboard again, and
+got out of the forehold eight barrels of flour, one cask of pease, with
+some brandy and wine. This day went to allowance, of half a pound of flour
+per man, and one piece of pork for three men, it being the first time of
+serving since on shore.
+
+The 26th, we got out more casks of flour, one cask of oatmeal, with some
+brandy and wine. In the evening the Indians came with their wives, we gave
+the women hats, and the men breeches; they made signs as if they would
+bring more sheep.
+
+On the 27th, we scuttled over the captain's store-room, got out several
+casks of rum and wine, and brought them ashore. This was the first time of
+the lieutenant's being between decks since the loss of the ship. The
+following day we went aboard, cut down and tost overboard the ship's
+awning, to make a deck for the long-boat.
+
+Since the 27th, we have been employ'd in getting up the long-boat, and
+repairing the barge which had been stove ashore. Rainy weather.
+
+On Wednesday, the 3d of June, hard gales of wind at N.N.W., with abundance
+of rain; deserted this day James Mitchel, carpenter's mate, John Russel,
+armourer, William Oram, carpenter's crew, Joseph King, John Redwood,
+boatswain's yeomen, Dennis O'Lawry, John Davis, James Roach, James Stewart,
+and William Thompson, seamen. Took up, along shore, one hogshead of brandy,
+and several things that drove out of the ship, a bale of cloth, hats,
+shoes, and other necessaries. An information was given, this day, by David
+Buckley, to the captain, that there was a design to blow him up, with the
+surgeon, and lieutenant H--n of marines. The train was actually found, laid
+by the deserters, to blow 'em up the night before they went off.
+
+Thursday the 4th, we finished the boats, and shot several wild geese.
+Finding murmurings and discontents among the people, we secured the oars,
+and hawled up the boats, being apprehensive they would go away with them by
+night.
+
+The 5th, we went on board the ship, found several casks of wine and brandy
+between decks, most part of the planks between decks gone, and some strakes
+to wind-ward started out, part of the upper deck blown up, the stumps of
+the masts and pumps risen five feet; brought ashore one cask of flour, with
+some stuff for the use of the long-boat; and two quarter casks of wine; the
+wind at S. by E.
+
+Saturday the 6th, the wind at south and fair weather, we went aboard, got
+out of the hold eight casks of flour, two casks of wine, and a quarter cask
+and three hogsheads of brandy. The lieutenant went to the Indians, but
+could not find 'em, being inform'd by the deserters that they were gone.
+
+On Sunday the 7th, we went aboard the ship, got out a cask of pork, two
+barrels of flour, started one pipe of wine, and brought it ashore, with a
+quarter cask of pease, some bales of cloth, and carpenter's stores. This
+day Mr Henry Cozens, midshipman, was confin'd by the captain; the fault
+alledg'd against him was drunkenness. We learn from Nicholas Griselham,
+seaman, who was present and near the captain all the time, that as Mr
+Cozens was rowling up a steep beach a cask of pease, he found it too heavy
+for him, and left off rowling; the captain seeing this, told him he was
+drunk, Mr Cozens reply'd, With what should I get drunk, unless it be with
+water? The captain then said, You scoundrel, get more hands, and rowl the
+cask up: Cozens called for more hands, but no people came; with that the
+captain struck him with his cane. Griselham likewise says, that Cozens
+talked to the captain about one Captain Sh--lv--k; but the words he does
+not remember. But the same night I heard Mr Cozens use very unbecoming
+language to the captain, telling him, That he was come into those seas to
+pay Sh--lv--k's debts, and also insolently added, Tho' Sh--lv--k was a
+rogue, he was not a fool, and by G-d, you are both. When he spoke this, he
+was a prisoner in the store-tent, and asked the captain, If he was to be
+kept there all night? On these provocations, the captain attempted to
+strike him again, but the centinel said, he should strike no prisoner of
+his. But Cozens endeavouring to stave a cask of brandy, was soon after
+released. This day got out of the ship several chests of wax candles of all
+sizes, bales of cloth, bales of stockings, shoes, with some clocks and
+mercantile wares, with which the ship was throng'd.
+
+The 8th, Mr Cummins and myself went to the deserters; we find they were
+determined to go off to the northward; the reason of their stay is the want
+of craft to go off in. They now find themselves mistaken, they believed at
+first they were on the main, but are convinced they are four or five
+leagues from it, therefore they purpose to build a punt out of the wreck of
+the ship: They live on sea-weed and shell-fish, got up one cask of beef,
+which was brought on shore with a cask of brandy, found one cask of beef on
+the rocks.
+
+On Tuesday the 9th, I went with the doctor's mate to the deserters, and
+spoke to William Oram, a carpenter, and a very useful man, desiring him to
+return, with a promise of pardon from the captain: In this affair I was
+obliged to act very secretly. To-day, Mr Cozens, the midshipman, had a
+dispute with the surgeon; the latter having some business in our tent,
+which, when he had done, on his going away, Mr Cozens followed him; they
+soon fell to blows, but the surgeon had so much the advantage of the
+midshipman, that he tied his hands behind him and left him. In the evening
+the captain sent for me and the carpenter to his tent: We found the
+captain, lieutenant, purser, surgeon, and lieutenant H----n of marines.
+Here we had a consultation, which was chiefly concerning the disturbances
+among the people, as well in our tent as in the rest. Mr Cummins and I
+assured the captain, that the people in our tent were generally very well
+affected to him, and that we never would engage in any mutiny against him,
+or any other officer that would act for the publick good, and his majesty's
+service: The captain said, he had no reason to suspect us, for we were the
+only two in the ship that he put any trust or confidence in. Strict orders
+were given the centinel to keep a good look-out, and have a watchful eye on
+the provisions. Notwithstanding all this precaution and care, there was
+one-third part of a barrel of flour and half a barrel of gunpowder taken
+away that night. It is to be observed, that this day's consultation was the
+first that Captain C----p ever had with his officers; had he sometimes
+consulted them aboard, we might probably have escaped our present unhappy
+condition.
+
+Wednesday the 10th, this day, serving the provisions, the boatswain's
+servant, a Portuguese boy, talking bad English, and bringing in the
+allowance of wine, the boatswain, Mr Cozens, midshipman, and the cook his
+mess-mates, with some difficulty, understood by the boy's talk, that one of
+the men had his allowance stopped; Mr Cozens went to know the reason; the
+purser and he having some dispute two or three days before, the purser told
+him, when he asked for his wine, that he was come to mutiny, and without
+any farther ceremony, discharged a pistol at his head, and would have shot
+him, had he not been prevented by the cooper's canting the pistol with his
+elbow, at the instant of its going off; the captain and lieutenant H----n,
+hearing the discharge of a pistol, the latter ran out with a firelock, then
+called the captain out of his tent, telling him that Cozens was come to
+mutiny; the captain on this jumped out, asking where the villain was,
+clapped a cock'd pistol to Mr Cozen's cheek, and precipitately shot him,
+without asking any questions; the noise of the two pistols going off
+reached our tent; it was rainy weather, and not fit for gunning, so that we
+could not imagine the meaning of it; soon after we heard Mr Cozens was shot
+by the captain: The lieutenant came to call all hands to the captain: I
+asked if we must go armed, the lieutenant answered, Yes; but, on
+consideration, I thought better to go without arms: When we came to the
+captain, he acquainted us with what he had done, and told us he was still
+our commander. The captain, purser, surgeon, lieutenants H----n, E----rs,
+and F----ng of marines, being all armed, I said to the captain. Sir, you
+see we are disarmed; on this the captain dropped his firelock to the
+ground, saying, I see you are, and have only sent for you, to let you all
+know I am still your commander, so let every man go to his tent;
+accordingly every man obeyed him. In our tent, we had eighteen of the
+stoutest fellows that belonged to the ship, and I believe the captain, and
+the gentlemen above- mentioned, have some suspicion of Mr Cummins and
+myself, believing we can sway most of the seamen on shore: But I think this
+day we have given a proof of the sincerity of our intentions, and our
+detestation of mutiny, by not appearing in arms at the report of Mr Cozens
+being shot; we walked up with the captain, where we saw Mr Cozens with his
+elbow on the ground resting his right cheek on the palm of his hand, alive,
+and to appearance sensible, but speechless; the captain ordered him to the
+sick-tent, the surgeon's mate dressed his left cheek where he was shot, and
+felt a ball about three inches under his right eye; the surgeon refused
+dressing him: This we may impute to his having lately a quarrel with Mr
+Cozens, which has been already mentioned. The shooting of Mr Cozens was a
+very unhappy affair; The person whose allowance was stopped made no
+complaint to him, he was too officious in the business, and his preceding
+behaviour, and notorious disrespectful words to the captain, might probably
+make the captain suspect his design was mutiny; tho' this we must aver,
+that Mr Cozens neither on this, or any other occasion, appeared in arms
+since the loss of the ship. However, his fate laid the foundation of a
+great deal of mischief which afterwards followed.
+
+Thursday the 11th, moderate gales at W.N.W. The carpenter employed in
+laying the blocks for the long-boat. Dr O----y, of the land forces, was
+desired to assist the surgeon's mate, to take the ball out of Mr Cozens's
+cheek, which he then was inclinable to do, but in the afternoon, finding it
+not agreeable to the captain, refused to go, as we are informed by the
+surgeon's mate, who desired some surgeon might be present, to be witness of
+the operation; the ball was taken out, and for some time supposed to be
+lost, but was afterwards found.
+
+This day being the 12th, the carpenter finished the blocks for lengthening
+the long-boat: In the morning he went to the captain's tent for some bolts
+for the use of the long-boat, where he saw the surgeon at the medicine-
+chest, who asked him how that unfortunate creature did, meaning Mr Cozens;
+the carpenter told him, he had not seen him to-day: The surgeon then said
+he would have visited him, but the captain would not give him leave. This
+was looked on as an act of inhumanity in the captain, and contributed very
+much to his losing the affections of the people, whose opinion was, that as
+Mr Cozens was very strong and healthy, with proper assistance he might
+recover; the people did not scruple to say, that the captain would act a
+more honourable part to discharge another pistol at him, and dispatch him
+at once, than to deny him relief, and suffer him to languish in a cold wet
+place in pain and misery.
+
+On the 13th, Mr Cozens being, to all outward appearance, likely to recover,
+desired he might be removed to our tent, which was his place of residence
+before this unhappy accident. We being unwilling to disoblige the captain,
+the carpenter and myself waited on him; we told him, we were come to ask a
+favour, hoping that he would have so much mercy and compassion on the
+unhappy man who was in the sick tent, as to permit us to remove him to his
+former lodging, but the captain answer'd, No, I am so far from it, that if
+he lives, I will carry him a prisoner to the commodore, and hang him.
+
+On the 14th, went aboard the ship, but could do nothing, she working so
+very much, we brought ashore the fore-top sail yard; the boat went up the
+river, brought back abundance of geese and shaggs. Wind at west.
+
+Monday the 15th, hard gales of wind at west, with rain and hail; drove
+ashore three barrels of flour and abundance of small stuff out of the ship;
+took up a-long shore several pieces of pork and beef: John Anderson, a
+seaman, walking round the rocks, and reaching after a piece of beef,
+slipping his footing, was drown'd, but taken up directly, and that night
+bury'd: Turn'd the boatswain out of our tent for breeding quarrels; his
+turbulent temper was so well known to the captain, that he express'd
+himself pleas'd at our turning him out, and said he was surprized we ever
+admitted him among us.
+
+On the 7th, the carpenter at work on the long-boat: The surgeon's mate,
+this day took out of Mr Cozens's cheek a ball much flatted, and a piece of
+bone, supposed to be part of the upper jaw, which was desired by Mr Cozens
+to be deliver'd to me; I receiv'd it, with the first ball mention'd to have
+been lost.
+
+Thursday the 18th, the carpenter cut the long-boat in two, and lengthen'd
+her eleven feet ten inches and half by the keel.
+
+Sunday the 21st, went aboard the ship, but it being dangerous going about
+any thing, by reason of her working much, and a great sea tumbling in, the
+boats were employ'd in going about the rocks in search of subsistence.
+
+The 22d, the carpenter went with the boat up the bay to seek the Indians,
+but saw nothing of them; at night the boat returned, the people having shot
+abundance of wildfowl.
+
+The 23d, the lieutenant went with the boat, and found the Indians just come
+from the place where they catch seal; their canoes were loaded with seal,
+sheep, and oil.
+
+Wednesday the 24th, departed this life, Mr Henry Cozens, midshipman, after
+languishing fourteen days with the wound he had received in his cheek: We
+bury'd him in as decent a manner as time, place, and circumstances would
+allow. There have died sundry ways since the ship first struck, forty-five
+men; seven have deserted from us, and still continue away; remain and now
+victual'd one hundred men.
+
+Thursday the 25th, the wind at W.N.W. and rainy weather; saw the Indians
+coming towards us in their canoes, but the deserters settling where they
+took their habitation, when first we saw 'em, by their rowing, we thought
+they were design'd to go there; and knowing the deserters intended to take
+one of their canoes to go over the main, we therefore launch'd the yawl and
+went off to them; there were five canoes of 'em, laden with seal, shell-
+fish, and four sheep; they brought with 'em their wives and children, so
+that in all they were about fifty in number; they hawl'd their canoes up,
+and built four wigg whims, which they cover'd with the bark of trees and
+seal-skins; we imagined by this they had an intention to settle with us;
+they are a very simple and inoffensive people, of a low stature, flat-
+nos'd, with their eyes sunk very deep in their heads; they live continually
+in smoak, and are never without a fire, even in their canoes; they have
+nothing to cover their nakedness, but a piece of an old blanket, which they
+throw over their shoulders: We always see 'em in this manner,
+notwithstanding we cloath 'em whenever they come to us. By the crosses set
+up in many parts of the land, one would think they had some notion of the
+Romish religion: We can't make 'em understand us by any speech, nor by our
+signs: We show'd 'em a looking-glass; when they saw the representation of
+themselves, they seem'd amaz'd, and shew'd a thousand antick gestures, and
+when once they beheld themselves in the looking-glass, they could hardly be
+prevail'd on to look off.
+
+On Sunday the 28th, in the afternoon, about twelve of the Indian women went
+off in their canoes: We thought they were gone to get muscles, but soon saw
+'em diving, which we imagin'd was for pieces of beef or pork that come out
+of the wreck; but, when they came ashore, we found they had been only
+diving for sea-eggs. The women among those people seem to take more pains
+for the provisions of life than the men; the latter having little to do but
+to provide wood, and indulge themselves by the fire, while the women go
+every tide a fishing. To-day we kill'd two Indian sheep.
+
+Monday the 29th, launch'd the yawl to go with the Indians to shew us where
+they get the muscles; but being too late for the tide, we came away without
+any: The captain sent to our tent two quarters of mutton; the carpenter
+daily at work on the long-boat. Winds variable.
+
+On the 30th, the Indian women went again for sea-eggs, and brought a great
+quantity, with abundance of white maggots, about three quarters of an inch
+in length, and in circumference the bigness of a wheat-straw. These women
+keep an incredible time under water, with a small basket in their hands,
+about the size of the women's work-baskets in England, into which they put
+whatever they get in their diving. Among these people the order of nature
+seems inverted; the males are exempted from hardships and labour, and the
+women are meer slaves and drudges. This day one of our seamen died: We
+observe, the Indians are very watchful of the dead, sitting continually
+near the above-mention'd corpse, and carefully covering him, every moment
+looking on the face of the deceas'd with abundance of gravity: At the
+burial their deportment was grave and solemn, seeing the people with their
+hats off during the service, they were very attentive and observant, and
+continued so till the burial was over: They have nothing, as I have said
+before, but a blanket to cover 'em, and the boys and girls are quite naked,
+notwithstanding we felt it as cold here, as in the hardest frosts in
+England, and almost always rainy.
+
+Wednesday, July the 1st, employ'd in cutting timbers in the woods for the
+long-boat; rainy weather, the wind at S.W. the Indian women diving for food
+as before.
+
+Thursday the 2d, last night the store-tent was broke open, and robb'd of a
+great deal of flour.
+
+Monday the 6th, hard gales of wind, with showers of rain and hail, came
+ashore from the ship one cask of beef, with several of the lower-deck
+carlings, and plank of the upper and lower-deck beams, and, what was
+reckon'd very odd, the cabin-bell came ashore, without its being fasten'd
+to any wood, or any one thing of the ship near it.
+
+Tuesday the 7th, hard gales of wind, with hail, rain, and lightning: The
+Indian women went out as usual in their canoes to dive for sea-eggs, and
+brought ashore abundance of 'em; they jump overboard out of their canoe
+about a mile from shore, they take the handle of their baskets, which I
+have already described, between their teeth, diving five or six fathom
+water; their agility in diving, and their continuance under water for so
+long a time as they generally do, will be thought impossible by persons who
+have not been eye-witnesses of it; they seem as amphibious to us as seals
+and alligators, and rarely make use of any provisions but what they get out
+of the sea.
+
+Wednesday the 8th, launch'd the yawl and went on board, saw several casks,
+some of meat, and some of liquor, the decks and sides abaft drove out, and
+entirely gone, the larboard-side abaft drove on shore; about two miles and
+a half from the tent a cask of liquor was found, and broach'd by the person
+who found it, which was allow'd to be a great fault; he likewise broach'd a
+cask of meat, which should have been preserv'd to carry away with us.
+
+On Thursday the 9th, the Indians with their wives and children launch'd
+their canoes, and went away, 'tis believ'd they wanted provisions, such as
+seal, they are indeed never settled long in a place; it was said some of
+our people wanted to have to do with their wives, which was the reason of
+their going away so soon. To-day we saw several things drive out of the
+ship up the lagoon, as the stump of the main-mast, one of the pumps, with
+one of the gun-carriages. Wind at N.W.
+
+Friday the 10th, went aboard the ship, found her broke asunder just at the
+gang-way, saw the cables out to the windward, but could not see any casks
+of liquor or provisions, went to shorter allowance of flour, one pound for
+three men per diem. Last night the tent was robbed of half a barrel of
+flour. Orders were given by the captain to watch the store-tent by night;
+all the officers, the marine included, with the mates and midshipmen, were
+oblig'd to watch, the captain and carpenter alone excus'd, the carpenter
+being every day at work on the long-boat.
+
+Friday the 17th, for this week past hard gales of wind, with rain and hail
+as usual. Last Wednesday the ship parted her upper works from the lower
+deck: Launch'd the boat and went off to the wreck, but could do nothing,
+went up the bay, took a quarter cask, about three parts full of wine, saw
+the Indian dogs ashore, but no people.
+
+Saturday the 18th, launched the boat, sent her to the wreck, and brought
+ashore one cask of beef, it is believed some guns were heard from the sea:
+The watch reported they have heard them two nights past. Great disturbances
+among the people. Wind at E.N.E. and frosty weather.
+
+Sunday the 19th, launch'd the boat, sent her to the wreck, hook'd a cask
+supposed to be beef, but when towed ashore, we found it contained nothing
+but hatches; we took up along ashore, abundance of checque shirts in
+dozens, also caps, bales of cloth, and pieces of beef and pork.
+
+Wednesday the 22d. This day began to build a house to dwell in, finding our
+stay here will be much longer than we at first expected.
+
+The 23d, took up along shore several pieces of beef and pork, shirts, caps,
+frocks, trowsers, pieces of cloth, with other serviceable things, and wax
+candles of all sizes.
+
+Saturday the 25th, hard showers of rain and hail, the wind at north. Shot
+several sea-gulls, geese, hawks, and other birds: The carpenter had this
+day given him by one of the people, a fine large rock crab, it being the
+first of the kind we ever saw here.
+
+Sunday the 26th, moderate gales and variable winds, with rain and hail:
+Most part of our people eat a weed that grows on the rocks; it is a thin
+weed of a dark green colour, and called by the seamen, Slaugh. It is
+surprizing how the black currant trees, which are here in great plenty,
+have budded within these three days. Began thatching our new house with
+bushes: To-day we caught a fine rock-fish; this is the first fish we have
+seen alive since our being here. Observing our new town, we find there are
+no less than 18 houses in it.
+
+Monday the 27th, launched the boat, went to the wreck, but found nothing;
+close weather, the wind still at north: Rose the sheets for erecting a tent
+over the long-boat to keep the men from being exposed to the continual
+rains. This day we finished the thatching of our new house.
+
+Wednesday the 29th, fresh gales at N.W. with rain; sure no men ever met
+with such weather as we have in this climate: To-day we walked in the woods
+to take some notice of the trees, which we find to be very much like our
+beech in England; but the trees and bushes are in general of a soft free
+nature, and with a spicy bark.
+
+Thursday the 30th, wind still at N.W. and rainy weather. This day departed
+this life, Nathaniel Robinson, the last private man of the invalids; there
+are now only two left, viz. the captain and surgeon. Being at the
+honourable Mr B----n's tent, I found him looking in Sir John Narborough's
+voyage to these seas: This book I desired the loan of, he told me it was
+Captain C----p's, and did not doubt but he would lend it me; this favour I
+requested of the captain, and it was presently granted. Carefully perusing
+this book, I conceived an opinion that our going through the Streights of
+Magellan for the coast of Brasil, would be the only way to prevent our
+throwing ourselves into the hands of a cruel, barbarous, and insulting
+enemy: Our long-boat, when finished, can be fit for no enterprize, but the
+preservation of life: As we cannot act offensively, we ought to have regard
+to our safety and liberty. This evening proposals were offered to the
+officers concerning our going through the Streights of Magellan; which at
+this time they seem to approve of.
+
+Friday the 31st, hard gales at N.W. with rain: This day was taken up along
+shore, an otter just killed, but by what animal we could not tell; it was
+bleeding fresh when taken up, and proved a dainty repast. Came ashore the
+ship's beams, with several things of great value.
+
+Saturday, August the 1st, hard gales at N.W. with rain and hail. This day
+put to an allowance of flour, one quarter of a pound a man per diem, and
+one pint of wine: Those who like brandy, to have half a pint in lieu of
+wine. We have now in a manner nothing to live on but what we pick'd up
+along the shore: The ship's company agree to go through the Streights of
+Magellan.
+
+Sunday the 2d, this morning found the store-tent robbed of brandy, filled
+up all the ullage casks, picked up about the rocks abundance of clams, a
+shell-fish not unlike our cockles: These fish are at present the support of
+our life. The people are now very quarrelsome and discontented.
+
+Monday the 3d, this day having fine weather (which is a prodigy in this
+place) launched the boat, and went about the rocks and islands on
+discovery. This day we also moved into our new house, it being a very
+commodious habitation, exceedingly well thatched; in this dwelling there
+are cabins for fourteen people, which are covered inside and out with broad
+cloth: This is a rich house, and, in some parts of the world, would
+purchase a pretty estate; there are several hundred yards of cloth about
+it, besides the curtains and linings, which are shalloon and camblet; in
+short, considering where we are, we cannot desire a better habitation. The
+people fall into disputes concerning the boat, where we are to proceed with
+her, when she is built and ready for going off. It is the opinion of the
+navigators, that going through the Streights of Magellan is the safest and
+only way to preserve life and liberty: The artists, who have worked the
+bearings and distance, are very pressing that it should be moved to the
+captain, purposing to have their reasons drawn up, and signed by all who
+are willing to go that way, and to be delivered to the captain for his
+opinion; upon this there was a paper drawn up, and as soon as the people
+heard it, they came flocking to sign first, crying all aloud for the
+Streights, seeming overjoyed, as if they were going to England directly,
+without any affliction or trouble, but there must be a great deal of
+hardships to be encountered before we arrive at our native country: This
+paper was signed by all the officers on the spot, except the captain,
+lieutenant, purser, and surgeon, and by all the seamen in general, except
+the captain's steward.
+
+Tuesday the 4th, at the time of serving at the storehouse, about twelve
+o'clock, I went to the captain, with the master, carpenter, and boatswain,
+and read to him the paper; he answered he would consider of it, and give
+his answer: Here follows a copy of the paper signed:--
+
+
+"We whose names are under-mentioned, do, upon mature consideration, as we
+have met with so happy a deliverance, think it the best, surest, and most
+safe way for the preservation of the body of people on the spot, to proceed
+through the Streights of Magellan for England. Dated at a desolate island
+on the coast of Patagonia, in the latitude of 47 deg. 00 min. south, and
+west longitude from the meridian of London 81 deg. 40 min. in the South
+Seas, this 2d day of August, 1741.
+
+John Bulkeley, gunner.
+John Cummins, carpenter.
+Thomas Clark, master.
+John King, boatswain.
+John Jones, master's mate.
+John Snow, ditto.
+Robt. Elliot, surgeon's mate.
+The Hon. John Byron, midshipman.
+Alexander Campbell, ditto.
+Isaac Morris, ditto.
+Thomas Maclean, cook.
+John Mooring, boatswain's mate.
+Henry Stevens, seaman.
+Benjamin Smith, seaman.
+John Montgomery, seaman.
+John Duck, seaman.
+John Hayes, seaman.
+James Butler, seaman.
+John Hart, seaman.
+James Roach, seaman.
+Job Barns, seaman.
+John Petman, seaman.
+William Callicutt, seaman.
+Richard Phipps, boatswain's mate.
+John Young, cooper.
+Richard Noble, quarter-master.
+William Rose, ditto.
+William Hervey, quarter-gunner.
+John Bosman, seaman.
+William Moore, ditto.
+Samuel Stook, ditto.
+Samuel Cooper, ditto.
+David Buckley, quarter-gunner.
+George Smith, seaman.
+Peter Deleroy, seaman.
+James M'Cawle, seaman.
+John George, seaman.
+John Shorclan, seaman.
+Richard East, seaman.
+William Lane, seaman.
+William Oram, seaman.
+Moses Lewis, seaman.
+Nicholas Griselham, seaman.
+
+"We whose names are under-mentioned, have had sufficient reasons, from the
+above-mentioned people, to consent to go this way. Signed by
+
+Captain Robert Pemberton, commander of his majesty's land forces.
+
+William Fielding, lieutenant
+Robert Ewers, lieutenant
+
+
+Wednesday the 5th, this day I went with the master, carpenter, master's
+mates, and midshipmen, to the captain, to acquaint him with what was done,
+and resolved on, and farther told him, it was a duty incumbent on us to
+preserve life before any other interest. He answered, Gentlemen, I desire
+time to consider of it, and will give you my final determination; on which
+we took our leave, and came away.
+
+Thursday the 6th, hard gales at W.S.W. and rainy weather. At noon we went
+with Mr Cummins to Captain P--mb--rt--n's tent, to have some farther
+conference for our future deliverance: While we were there, the captain
+sent his service to Captain C----p for a pair of pocket-pistols, his own
+property, which had been refused him on his request some time before. The
+servant was answered, by the captain's favourite and prime minister the
+steward, The captain is ill, and I can't let you have 'em. This answer not
+being satisfactory to Captain P--mb--rt--n, he sent a second time, and
+insisted on the delivery of his pistols, but was answered, they could not
+be come at before the captain was up; but a little time after it was judged
+proper to send Captain P--mb--rt--n his pistols. From Captain P--mb--rt--
+n's we went to the L----t's tent; while there, the L----t was sent to
+Captain C----p, about an hour after the carpenter and myself were sent for;
+when we came to him, he said, Gentlemen, I have maturely considered the
+contents of your paper, so far as it regards the preservation of the people
+on the spot: This paper has given me a great deal of uneasiness, insomuch
+that I have not closed my eyes till eight o'clock this morning, for
+thinking of it, but, I think, you have not weighed the thing rightly; do
+you know we are above one hundred and sixty leagues distant S.W. from the
+Streights of Magellan, with the wind against us? Then think on the distance
+to be run afterwards on the other side the Streights, with the wind always
+against us, and where no water is to be had. I answered, Sir, you say it is
+above one hundred and sixty leagues to the Streights, but let the
+navigators work it, and they will find it not above ninety leagues;
+yourself and lieutenant are undoubtedly navigators and judges, therefore
+will certainly find it as I say. Mr Cummins acquainted him, accordingly to
+his calculation, the vessel would carry a month's water, at a quart a man
+per diem; and, sir, do you consider, after running along shore to the
+northward this side the land, that we have one hundred leagues to run right
+out to sea to the island of Juan Ferdinandez, and five hundred chances to
+one if we meet the commodore there, or any of the squadron, nor do we know
+but the commodore may have shared the same fate with ourselves, or perhaps
+worse? The captain answered, It's a thousand to one if we see the commodore
+at Juan Ferdinandez; for, gentlemen, to let you into a secret, which I
+never discovered before, we shall meet him at Baldavia, his orders were
+from ---- to go there with the squadron, it being a place of little or no
+force. Mr Cummins answered, Sir, 'tis agreed, the commodore is at Baldavia,
+but we make it in our bargain, when we go from hence, that we will put
+ashore at every place when we want water, whenever the weather will permit,
+without any obstruction. The captain replied, There is no occasion for
+that, we will water at the islands, and take a vessel going along. Mr
+Cummins said, Sir, what shall we do with a vessel, without provisions, for
+ninety souls? The captain answered, We will take a vessel loaded with flour
+from Chili, there being a great many trading vessels that way, and then we
+will proceed through the Streights of Magellan. Mr Cummins said, How shall
+we take a vessel without guns, not having any but muskets, and our enemies
+know, as well as ourselves, that we have a squadron in these seas,
+therefore, undoubtedly are well armed, and keep a good look-out? The
+captain's answer to this was, What are our small arms for, but to board
+'em? The carpenter said, Sir, if a shot should take the boat under water,
+it would not be in my power to stop a leak of that kind, where the plank is
+so thin, that in some places it is not above three quarters of an inch
+thick. The captain then said, Gentlemen; I am agreeable to any thing, and
+willing to go any way, for the preservation of the people; but at the same
+time would have you consider of it, the wind being always against us on the
+other side the land, and we have above seven hundred leagues to the river
+Plate. I answered the captain, 'Tis not above five hundred and ninety
+leagues from hence to Cape St Antonio's; and, as I have before said, let
+the navigators work it, and reason take place, which is what we chiefly
+desire to be governed by: Another inducement we have to go the way proposed
+is, that we may be assured of water and provision. I allow that, says the
+captain, and we may save our own; but how do you know whether we may not
+meet enemies in the Streights? I replied to the captain, We can have no
+enemies to encounter there, but Indians in their canoes, and those we can
+master at our pleasure. The captain then seemed to countenance our opinion
+again, and said, When we come to St Julian's we shall be sure of salt in
+plenty for our provisions, without which our fowls will not keep above two
+or three days: Besides, when we come to the river Plate, we may meet with a
+prize, they not being acquainted with any English vessel like ours, with
+schooner's sails, by which means we may run up the river and take a larger
+vessel: If we fail here, we may go ashore, and get what cattle we please,
+but what business have we at the Rio Grand? We must go to the Rio Janeiro.
+I told him, we should be obliged to stop at every place along shore for
+supplies; at St Catharine's the governor will give us a certificate, so
+that we shall be known to be the people that were there in the squadron.
+The captain said, That's true, and I can get bills of credit in any part of
+Brazil; besides, the people may be separated, some in the Flota, and some
+in other ships, with less hands we may go to Barbadoes. Mr Cummins told
+him, we might venture to England with, twelve hands. Yes, you may, says the
+captain, with thirty. It is to be observed, during all this debate, the
+lieutenant spoke not a word. The carpenter asking him the reason of his
+silence in all the consultation, he answered, I'll give my opinion
+hereafter. The captain said, I knew nothing of his being acquainted with
+it, till Mr Bulkeley told me yesterday; but at the same time, Mr B----s, I
+expect, you will be the first that will sign the paper. I imagined the
+captain meant our paper, and immediately answered, with some warmth, As he
+had refused signing at first, and at the same time agreed to the proposal,
+that I had signed so close, that there was no room left for his name, and
+now it was too late for him to sign. The captain surprized me, by saying, I
+don't mean your paper; I told him, Any other, which should be contrary to
+ours, would never be signed by us. Mr Cummins said to the captain, Sir,
+'tis all owing to you that we are here; if you had consulted your officers,
+we might have avoided this misfortune, considering the condition the ship
+was in, she was not fit to come in with the land, all our men being sick,
+and not above three seamen in a watch; suppose the mast had gone by the
+board, as was every moment expected. The captain made answer, Gentlemen,
+you do not know my orders; there never were any so strict given to a
+commander before, and had I but two men living besides myself, I must, and
+was obliged to go to the first rendezvous, which was the island of Nostra
+Senhora di Socora: I was obliged to go there at all events. I made answer
+to this, Sir, if that is the case, it seems plain the thing was designed we
+should be here: But, sir, I am of opinion, notwithstanding the commodore
+had his orders from ---- to go with the squadron to Baldavia, that at the
+same time those orders were so far discretional, that if the squadron was
+disabled, care was to be taken not to endanger his majesty's ships. Yes,
+that (says the captain) was settled at St Julian's: Notwithstanding what
+has been said, gentlemen, I am agreeable to take any chance with you, and
+to go any way; but would have you consider of it, and defer your
+determination till all is ready to go off the spot. I then told the
+captain, You have known, sir, from the time you saw the proposal, that the
+people are uneasy, and the work is at a stand, and in this situation things
+will be until this affair is settled; therefore the sooner you resolve the
+better. The captain replied, I design to have a consultation among my
+officers: Have you any more objections to make? I answered, Yes, sir, one
+more; which is, when you go from hence, you are not to weigh, come to an
+anchor, or alter course, without consulting your officers. The captain
+said, Gentlemen, I was your commander till the ship parted, or as long as
+any stores or provisions were getting out of her. We told him, we had
+always taken care to obey his orders in the strictest manner, which he
+allowed us to have done; and he added, You were the officers that I placed
+my whole dependence in. We answered, Sir, we will support you with our
+lives, as long as you suffer reason to rule: And then we parted. After this
+consultation, the captain seldom came out of his tent, which occasioned.
+great disturbances among the people.
+
+Friday the 7th, the wind at W.N.W. with rain. This day the navigators
+worked the bearings and distance along shore, from one place to another, to
+know the true distance: Hereupon it was agreed to proceed through the
+Streights of Magellan, according to Sir John Narborough's directions, which
+give us great encouragement to go that way. Captain P----n drawed his men
+up, and dismissed 'em again. Great uneasiness among the people.
+
+Saturday the 8th, this morning went to the lieutenant, for him to acquaint
+the captain all his officers were ready to give sufficient reasons for
+going through the Streights of Magellan, desiring a consultation might be
+held in the afternoon. At three o'clock the captain sent for me and Mr
+Cummins; when we came, the master and boatswain were sent for, but they
+were gone in search of subsistence, as limpetts, muscles, &c. The captain
+said, Gentlemen, I don't doubt but you have considered upon the business
+you are come about; therefore I am determined to take my fate with you, or
+where the spirit of the people leads, and shall use my best endeavours for
+their preservation; but I am afraid of meeting contrary winds, for after
+the sun has crossed the Line we must expect to meet 'em. I made answer, By
+all accounts the wind hangs from N.W. to the S.W. above three parts of the
+year, which is in our favour. Mr Cummins told him, There was fresh water to
+be got as well on one coast as the other, and if Sir John Narborough's
+treatment was so ill in a profound peace, what must we expect in a time of
+open war? The captain said, I am afraid, very bad. Then Mr Cummins spoke in
+this manner to the captain: Sir, I always took you for an honourable
+gentleman, and I believe you to be such; on your honour, sir, I beg you
+will give the true sentiments of your mind, whether through the Streights
+is not the surest and safest way to preserve our lives, notwithstanding we
+have a thousand difficulties to encounter with any way? The captain
+answered, I really think going to the northward is the safest way; for
+suppose we should be drove off to sea, when on the other side the land,
+what is to be done then? I said, Sir, it is our business to keep the shore,
+to prevent all accidents that may happen that way. Then Lieutenant B----s
+made an objection, Suppose you have the wind blowing right in, and a
+tumbling sea, as to endanger the boat, what are we to do? I made answer,
+Sir, if you remember when we were riding at St Julian's, it blowed a very
+hard gale of wind right in from the sea; yet, even then, the sea did not
+run so high as to endanger a boat riding at anchor: Another instance I
+bring you from St Catherine's, when we had such hard gales that the Trial
+lost her masts, and the Pearl separated from the squadron; yet, at that
+time, there was no sea comparable to what we have met with this side the
+land. The lieutenant allowed this to be fact. Then the captain said, I will
+allow you to have water at Port Desire; but do you consider the lengthening
+your distance, by keeping along shore, and rounding every bay, and some of
+those bays are very deep? I told him, that undoubtedly there was water all
+along the coast, and that we had no business to round the bays, but to
+steer from one head-land to the other. Then Lieutenant B----s made a second
+objection, Suppose we are forced into a bay, and shoal water? I answered,
+We should always have a boat a-head, and our draught of water will not be
+above four or five feet at most; and if we should be so unfortunate as to
+lose our boat, we must keep the lead a-going. The l----t replied, That was
+true, and there could not be a great deal of difficulty in it. This was the
+only time the l----t ever spoke in public on the affair; he always allowed,
+when absent from the captain, that going through the Streights was the best
+way; but in the captain's presence he sided with him, and was for going to
+the northward.
+
+Sunday the 9th, at three this afternoon, I went with Mr Cummins, the
+master, and boatswain, as desired, to the captain, to give him our
+opinions, believing going through the Streights the surest way to preserve
+life; it was therefore agreed, That if the wind did not set in against us,
+at the sun's crossing the Line, that the captain would go that way. The
+captain asked every man's opinion, and found the people unanimous for the
+Streights of Magellan. To-day being fair weather, launched the yawl to go a
+fowling, shot several geese, ducks, shaggs, and sea-pies. Heeled the long-
+boat for planking.
+
+Monday the 10th, wind at N. and N.N.W. rainy weather. Eat slaugh and sea-
+weed fryed with tallow-candles, which we picked up along shore; this we
+reckon at present exceeding good eating, having nothing to live on but a
+quarter of a pound of flour a man per day, and what we can get off the
+rocks: For many days the weather has been so bad that we have not been able
+to stir abroad, though almost starved for want of food.
+
+Tuesday the 11th, hard gales at S.W. with heavy rains. This afternoon the
+people came in arms to acquaint us of the stores being robbed; they
+therefore wanted our consent for moving the stores to our tent; on which we
+desired they would desist from offering any violence: We told 'em of the
+ill consequence of mutiny, which, as we always abhorred, we took all
+imaginable care to prevent: The people, on our persuasions, instantly
+quitted their arms. The captain presently sent for me and Mr Cummins, to
+acquaint us with what had happened: He told us the purser, accidentally
+coming by, saw the prisoner Rowland Crussett, marine, crawling from the
+bushes, and from under the store tent, and found on him upwards of a day's
+flour for ninety souls, with one piece of beef under his coat, and three
+pieces more, which were concealed in the bushes, to carry off when an
+opportunity offered; and the sentry, Thomas Smith, his mess-mate, a marine,
+undoubtedly was privy to the robbery. The captain farther said, We have
+nothing to do with them; but I shall send to Captain P----n, to insist on a
+court-martial: I really think that for robbing the store-tent (which, in
+our present circumstances, is starving the whole body of people) the
+prisoners deserve death. This was not only the captain's opinion, but
+indeed the sentiments of every person present. After we parted from the
+captain, we were sent for by Captain P----n: He acquainted us, he would go
+as far as the martial law would allow him, and in conjunction with the sea-
+officers: I look (said he) on the l----t as nothing, and the c----n in the
+same light: As for you two, (meaning the gunner and carpenter) I confide
+in, and shall have regard to your opinions. When the articles of war were
+read, we found their crime did not touch life, but they were to suffer
+corporal punishment. Whilst Mr Cummins was laying open the nature of their
+guilt, and the ill consequence of lenity in the circumstances we were in, I
+proposed a way next to death, which was, if judged proper by Captain P----n
+and Captain C----p, to carry 'em off to an island where the ship parted,
+there being muscles, limpetts, and clams in abundance, and no want of
+water, and there to be left till we should be ready for sailing; and, to
+strike a terror in all for the future, that if any man should be guilty of
+the like offence, without any respect of person, he should share the same
+fate. This proposal was approved of by both the captains. At night
+Lieutenant B----n surprised us with a new kind of proposal we little dreamt
+of, which was, to have a proper place of devotion to perform divine service
+in every sabbath-day: For this sacred office, our tent was judged the most
+commodious place. The duty of public prayer had been entirely neglected on
+board, though every seaman pays fourpence per month towards the support of
+a minister; yet devotion, in so solemn a manner, is so rarely performed,
+that I know but one instance of it during the many years I have belonged to
+the navy. We believe religion to have the least share in this proposal of
+the lieutenant. If our tent should be turned into a house of prayer, and
+this project takes, we may, perhaps, in the midst of our devotion, be
+surprised, and our arms taken, from us, in order to frustrate our designs,
+and prevent our return to England through the Streights of Magellan, or any
+other way.
+
+Wednesday the 12th, hard gales from S.W. to W. with heavy showers of hail
+and rain. Served out provisions today, a piece of beef for four men; some
+time past we have had but a quarter of a pound of flour per man per diem,
+and three pieces of beef: We live chiefly on muscles, limpitts, and clams,
+with saragraza and thromba; one is a green broad weed, common on the rocks
+in England; the other is a round sea-weed, so large, that a man can scarce
+grasp it; it grows in the sea, with broad leaves; this last we boil, the
+saragraza we fry in tallow; in this manner we support life: Even these
+shell-fish and weeds we get with great difficulty; for the wind, the rain,
+and coldness of the climate in this season, are so extremely severe, that a
+man will pause some time whether he shall stay in his tent and starve, or
+go out in quest of food.
+
+Friday the 14th, very hard gales at W. and N.W., with showers of rain and
+hail, which beat with such violence against a man's face, that he can
+hardly withstand it; however, one of our mess-mates to-day shot three gulls
+and a hawk, which gave us a very elegant repast. This day was held a court-
+martial on the sentry who is believed confederate with the marine that
+robbed the store-tent: sentence was passed on them to receive six hundred
+lashes each: Captain C----p not thinking the punishment adequate to the
+crime, cut 'em short of their allowance, so that they have now but half the
+provisions they had before: The day following the offenders received two
+hundred lashes each, as part of their punishment. We hauled the long-boat
+higher up, for fear the sea should wash the blocks from under her. We have
+found a new way of managing the slaugh; we fry it in thin batter with
+tallow, and use it as bread.
+
+Sunday the 16th, fresh gales of wind at S.W. with heavy showers of hail:
+The people generally complain of a malady in their eyes; they are in great
+pain, and can scarce see to walk about. The last tide flowed nine feet
+perpendicular; to-day we picked up shell-fish in abundance, with, pieces of
+beef and pork. The prisoners received two hundred lashes more.
+
+Tuesday the 18th, this day the carpenter, who has all along been
+indefatigable in working about the long-boat, saw one of the seamen cutting
+up an anchor-stock for firewood, which had been designed for a particular
+use for the long-boat; at sight of the fellow's folly he could not contain
+himself: This affair, added to the little concern and intolerable
+indifference that appeared in the generality of the people, for some time
+impaired his understanding, and made him delirious; all possible methods
+are used to restore him, as he is the only man, who, through the assistance
+of Providence, can compleat the means of our deliverance.
+
+Wednesday the 19th, the carpenter was so much recovered, that he went to
+work as usual; at night the lieutenant acquainted us, that the captain
+desired to speak with the carpenter and me to-morrow at noon, to consult
+what should be done with the two prisoners, having received but four
+hundred lashes out of the six, to which they were sentenced by a court-
+martial, the other two hundred being remitted by their own officers.
+
+Thursday the 20th, we waited on the captain, who acquainted us with what
+the lieutenant had mentioned last night relating to the prisoners: We told
+him the people were very uneasy about this mitigation of the punishment
+indicted on them by a court-martial; therefore it was agreed they should
+provide for themselves as well as they could, but to have no sort of
+provisions out of the store-tent for the future.
+
+Saturday, the 22d, we begun upon several contrivances to get provisions,
+such as building punts, cask-boats, leather-boats, and the like.
+
+On Sunday the 23d, the store-tent was again robbed, and, on examination,
+was found a deficiency of twelve days brandy for ninety men: The
+lieutenant, myself, and carpenter, went to the captain to consult some way
+which might effectually prevent those villainous practices for the future:
+The captain desired us to make a nice inquiry into this robbery, being
+determined to inflict the severest punishment on the offenders; though it
+would give him the greatest concern if any innocent person should suffer.
+This day we confined one of the sentinels for being drunk on his post; the
+day following the boatswain gave us information of the persons who had
+robbed the tent; they were two sentinels, Smith and Butler; those very
+persons were the first who insisted that the seamen, as well as themselves,
+should watch the store-tent; their own officers, as yet, have brought them
+to no examination: We have also information that the purser holds frequent
+conversation with the rebels, contrary to all the laws of the navy,
+supplying them with liquors in abundance, to the great distress of his
+majesty's faithful subjects, who have but half a pint per day to subsist
+on. There are now great disturbances among the people concerning going to
+the northward; they believe Captain C----p never intended to return to
+England by his proposing this way, in opposition to the opinion of all the
+navigators, who have given reasons for going through the Streights of
+Magellan. There is a sort of a party rage among the people, fomented by a
+kind of bribery that has more influence on the seamen than money; there are
+some daily bought off by rum, and other strong liquors. Unless a stop is
+put to these proceedings, we shall never go off the spot.
+
+Tuesday the 25th, this day felt four great earthquakes, three of which were
+very terrible; notwithstanding the violent shocks and tremblings of the
+earth, we find no ground shifted. Hard gales of wind at north, with heavy
+showers of rain.
+
+Thursday the 27th, the disturbances increase among the people; we plainly
+see there is a party raised to go to the northward; we went to the
+lieutenant, and consulted with him what was to be done in the present
+exigence; myself being reckoned the projector of the scheme for going
+through the Streights, was threatened to be shot by Noble the quarter-
+master: After having some discourse with the lieutenant, he told me, If I
+would draw up a paper for the captain to sign, in order to satisfy the
+people, that he would go to the southward, and every officer to have a copy
+of it, to justify himself in England, it would be as proper a method as we
+could take. The paper was immediately drawn up in these words, viz.
+
+
+"Whereas upon a general consultation, it has been agreed to go from this
+place through the Streights of Magellan, for the coast of Brazil, in our
+way for England: We do, notwithstanding, find the people separating into
+parties, which must consequently end in the destruction of the whole body;
+and as also there have been great robberies committed on the stores, and
+every thing is now at a stand, therefore, to prevent all future frauds and
+animosities, we are unanimously agreed to proceed as above-mentioned."
+
+
+This paper was delivered to the lieutenant, who said that he was sure the
+captain would sign it, but in case of refusal he should be confined for
+shooting Mr Cozens, and he would take the command on himself: And, to
+prevent further disturbances, the purser, as he much conversed with the
+rebels, it is agreed by the body of officers to send him off the island,
+for acting so contrary to his duty, in contempt of the articles of war, the
+laws of his country, and the known rules of the navy. It was likewise
+agreed, that any person who engaged himself in raising parties, should be
+disarmed. By this day's proceedings, we thought the lieutenant a gentleman
+of resolution, but the words and actions of people do not always concur.
+
+Friday the 28th, to-day the officers and people all appeared in arms. The
+master, boatswain, gunner, and carpenter, with Mr J----s, mate, and Mr
+C----ll, midshipman, went into the captain's tent, the lieutenant being
+with him. As soon as the officers were seated, a consultation was held
+concerning Smith and Butler robbing the store-tent, they were sentenced to
+be transported to the main, or some island. As soon as this affair was
+over, we talk'd to the captain of the uneasiness among the people, that
+there had been a long time a visible inquietude among 'em, and that we
+could not help seeing there were schemes form'd to obstruct our design of
+going to the southward. The captain answer'd, Gentlemen, it is time enough
+to think of this when we are ready to go off; have not I told you before
+that I do not care which way I go, southward or northward? I will take my
+fate with you. Everybody now expected the lieutenant to reply, especially
+after the zeal he express'd himself with the day before; but he sat
+speechless, without any regard to the welfare of the people, or to his own
+proposals. Finding he did not move in the affair, I took out the paper
+which was agreed to by the lieutenant and the rest of the officers, and
+read it to the captain, and ask'd him to sign it, which he strenuously
+oppos'd, and seem'd very much enrag'd that it should be propos'd to him.
+Upon this we dropt the matter, and began to discourse concerning the
+provisions: We thought it necessary that ten weeks subsistence should be
+secur'd to carry with us, and that the liquor should be buried under
+ground, but he gave us no answer. Finding no relief here, we went to
+Captain P----n's tent to consult with him what we should do in the present
+exigence. On our coming out from the captain we saw a flag hoisted on
+Captain P----n's tent, the captain himself seated in a chair, surrounded by
+the people. On seeing this, all the officers present at the consultation,
+except the lieutenant, went over to Captain P----n. Here it was agreed, in
+case the captain persisted to refuse signing the paper, to take the command
+from him, and to give it the lieutenant, according to the lieutenant's own
+proposal. At the same time Caplain P----n told the people he would stand by
+'em with his life, in going through the Streights of Magellan, the way
+propos'd in the paper. The people gave three cheers, crying aloud for
+England. The captain hearing the noise, got out of bed to his tent door,
+and call'd the people, enquiring what they wanted, then sent for all the
+officers: He was then told since he refused signing the paper, and had no
+regard to the safety of our provisions, the people unanimously agreed to
+take the command from him, and transfer it to the lieutenant. Hearing this,
+with an exalted voice, Captain C----p says, Who is he that will take the
+command from me? addressing himself to the lieutenant, Is it you, sir? The
+lieutenant reply'd, No, sir. The terror of the captain's aspect intimidated
+the lieutenant to that degree, that he look'd like a ghost. We left him
+with the captain, and return'd to Captain P----n's tent, to acquaint him of
+the lieutenant's refusing the command. We had not been long here before
+Captain C----p sent for us. I was the first person call'd for; at my
+entering his tent, I saw him seated on a chest, with a cock'd pistol on his
+right thigh; observing this, I desir'd Mr J----s, who was the mate he
+always rely'd on for navigation, to tell the captain I did not think proper
+to come before a cock'd pistol: Notwithstanding I was arm'd I drew back,
+altho' I had my pistol-cock'd, and there were several men near me arm'd
+with muskets. The captain's personal bravery no man doubted of, his courage
+was excessive, and made him rash and desperate; his shooting Mr Cozens was
+a fatal proof of it, he was grown more desperate by this unhappy action,
+and was observ'd since seldom to behave himself with any composure of mind.
+It is a piece of human prudence to retreat from a man in a phrenzy, because
+he who does not value his own life, has another man's in his power. I had
+no desire of falling by the hand of Captain C----p, and should be greatly
+disturb'd to be compelled, for my own preservation, to discharge a pistol
+at a gentleman against whom I never had any spleen, and who was my
+commander. When Mr J----s acquainted him with what I desired him, the
+captain threw his pistol aside, and came out of his tent; he told the
+people he would go with them to the southward; he desired to know their
+grievances, and he would redress them: They all call'd out for their sea-
+store of provisions to be secur'd, and the rest equally divided. Here the
+captain shew'd all the conduct and courage imaginable; he was a single man
+against a multitude, all of 'em dissatisfy'd with him, and all of 'em in
+arms: He told 'em the ill consequence of sharing the provisions, that it
+was living to-day and starving to-morrow; but the people were not to be
+satisfy'd, the officers had now no authority over 'em, and they were some
+time deaf to their persuasions; nay, it was with difficulty that they could
+dissuade 'em from pulling down the store-tent, and taking away the
+provisions by force; they remov'd the provisions out of the store-tent,
+then fell to digging a hole to bury the brandy; the sea-store to be
+secur'd, the remainder to be immediately shar'd. Had this been comply'd
+with, the consequences might have been very terrible; however, to pacify
+'em in some shape, it was agreed, that every man should have a pint of
+brandy per day, which, by calculation, would last 'em three weeks. On this
+they seem'd very easy, and went to their respective tents. The captain told
+his officers that he would act nothing contrary to what was agreed on for
+the welfare and safety of the community. Finding the captain in a temper of
+mind to hearken to reason, I said to him, sir, I think it my duty to inform
+you that I am not the person whom you imagine to be the principal in this
+affair. The captain answer'd, how can I think otherwise? I reply'd, Sir,
+the paper I read to you was your lieutenant's projection: There sits the
+gentleman, let him disown it if he can. The captain turning himself to the
+lieutenant, says, Mr Bulkeley has honestly clear'd himself. We then drank a
+glass of wine, and took our leaves. At night the captain sent for Mr
+Cummins and me to sup with him; we were the only officers present with him:
+When I was seated, I said, Sir, I have my character at stake, from drawing
+back from your cock'd pistol; had I advanc'd, one of us must have dropt.
+The captain answer'd, Bulkeley, I do assure you the pistol was not design'd
+for you, but for another; for I knew the whole before. We then talk'd of
+indifferent things, and spent the evening in a very affable manner.
+
+Saturday the 29th, came here five Indian canoes, loaden with muscles; the
+men, women, and children, were about fifty: These Indians had never been
+with us before, they are not so generous and good-natur'd as our friends I
+have already mentioned; they were so mercenary, that they would not part
+with a single muscle without something in exchange; their stay was but
+short with us, for the next morning they launch'd their canoes, and went
+off.
+
+Tuesday, September the 1st, the carpenter was shot in the thigh with
+several large pewter slugs by the captain's cook, but he being at a great
+distance, the slugs did not enter his skin: Whether this was design'd, or
+accidental, we don't know; however, we thought it proper to disarm him.
+
+Wednesday the 2d, wind at N. and N. by W. with rain. This day we were
+inform'd that three of the deserters, viz. James Mitchel, carpenter's mate,
+Joseph King and Owen Thomson, seamen, were gone over to the main in a punt
+of their own building; the others were here yesterday, and I believe would
+be gladly received again, but am of opinion there are few voices in their
+favour.
+
+Friday the 4th, some disorders among the people about watching the
+provisions, some taking all opportunities to rob the stores. Our living now
+is very hard, shell-fish are very scarce, and difficult to be had; the sea-
+weeds are our greatest support; we have found a sort of sea-weed which we
+call dulse, it is a narrow weed, growing on rocks in the sea, which, when
+boil'd about two hours, thickens the water like flour; this we esteem a
+good and wholsome food.
+
+Sunday the 6th, last night the store-tent was robbed of brandy and flour:
+The people on hearing this were greatly enrag'd, and insisted on searching
+the marines tents; on search they found four bottles of brandy, and four
+small parcels of flour. The captain sent for the lieutenant, master gunner,
+carpenter, and surgeon, with lieutenants H----n, E----s, and F----g, of the
+army, Captain Pemberton was also sent for, but was so ill that he could not
+be present, but desir'd all might pass according to the judgment of the
+above-mention'd officers. A consultation was held, five of the accused
+marines did not appear, dreading the punishment due to their crime, they
+march'd off to the deserters: Four more, who staid to be try'd, receiv'd
+sentence, on the first opportunity, to carry them off to the main, and
+there to shift for themselves with the former deserters. The seamen
+insisted on a pint of brandy each man per diem, which was agreed on. The
+provisions being found were put into the store.
+
+Monday the 7th, I was invited to a dog-feast at Mr J----s's tent: There
+were present at this entertainment, the lieutenant, the Honourable John
+Byron, Mr Cummins, Mr Campbell, Mr Young, Lieutenants Ewers and Fielding,
+and Dr Oakley of the army. It was exceeding good eating, we thought no
+English mutton preferable to it.
+
+Tuesday the 8th, in the afternoon, William Harvey, quarter gunner, came to
+our tent with a paper sign'd by seven people; the contents as follows, viz.
+
+
+"These are to acquaint you, the gentlemen, officers, and seamen of the ship
+Wager, that, for the easement of the boat now building, we do agree to go
+in the yawl, after she is fitted up, with allowing us our share of
+provisions, and other conveniences, to go in her to the southward, through
+the Streights of Magellan, for the coast of Brazil.
+
+David Buckley, quarter gunner.
+William Harvey, ditto.
+Rich. Noble, quarter-master.
+William Moor, captain's cook.
+William Rose, quarter-master.
+John Hayes, seaman.
+John Bosman, ditto."
+
+
+The next day, the above-mention'd added one more to their number, viz.
+Peter Plastow, captain's steward: he came to acquaint us he was willing to
+go with them, and hoped we would give our consent; we told him we had
+nothing to do with it, therefore he must apply to the captain.
+
+Thursday the 10th, hard gales at W.N.W., with rain and hail. The captain
+sent for the lieutenant, master, myself, the carpenter, and boatswain; when
+we were all met, the captain ask'd us if Plastow had mention'd any thing to
+us about going off in the yawl. We told him he had. Plastow being sent for,
+the captain said, Peter, I hear you are for going in the boat? He answer'd,
+Yes, sir, I will take my chance, for I want to get to England. The captain
+bade him be gone for a villain, and said no more. This Plastow was a mighty
+favourite with the captain, and had often been admitted to his
+conversation: He above all men ought to have stood steadfast to him,
+because the captain regarded him above the whole body of people, and hath
+been heard to say as much. It was this day agreed that the sentence put off
+on the 6th should be executed the first opportunity, without any delay, and
+that no boat should go off from hence before all was ready, believing some
+have a design to go to the northward.
+
+Friday the 11th, wind at N.N.W. The people very uneasy, scarce any work
+done for this week past; every thing at a stand, we have now among us no
+command, order, or discipline, add to our uneasiness the uncomfortableness
+of the climate; we have been inhabitants of this island sixteen weeks, and
+have not seen ten fair days; the murmurings of the people, the scarcity of
+provision, and the severity of the weather, would really make a man weary
+of life.
+
+Monday the 14th, last night very hard gales at N.W. and W.N.W., with large
+showers of hail, with thunder. The wind to-day is much abated. As to the
+article of provisions, nothing comes amiss, we eat dogs, rats, and, in
+short, every thing we can come at.
+
+Friday the 18th, Dennis O'Lary, and John Redwood, seamen, with six marines,
+were put off to the main, according to their sentence, it being a fine
+summer's day. This day the lieutenant bringing a pair of pistols to the
+carpenter, and complaining they were in bad order, did not imagine they
+were loaded, snapping the first it miss'd fire, the second went off, but
+providentially did no harm, tho' the lieutenant had then a crowd of people
+about him.
+
+Sunday the 20th, little wind, and clear weather. Launch'd the barge, and
+went off to the wreck; we took up four casks of beef, with a cask of pease,
+which was stay'd, we serv'd out to each man five pieces of beef, and pease
+to suck as would have 'em, but there were none to take 'em, having now
+plenty of meat, our stomachs are become nice and dainty.
+
+Wednesday, the 23d, the people went to the captain with a two gallon cagg,
+and ask'd it full of wine. The captain refus'd 'em, but apprehending that
+they would make no ceremony of filling it without leave, and carrying it
+off by force, he thought proper to order it to be fill'd. They brought it
+to the long-boat, and drank it in her hold. Stept the long-boat's mast
+forward. The people very much disorder'd in liquor, and very quarrelsome.
+
+Thursday the 24th, I was sent on a week's cruize in the barge, the officers
+with me were Mr Jones, the mate, and the Honourable Mr B----n, midshipman,
+and Mr Harvey the purser, who was a good draughtsman; we went in order to
+discover the coast to the southward, for the safety of the long-boat; we
+were informed on our return, that the people in our absence went to the
+captain and got two gallons of wine which they mixed with their half pints
+of brandy, they got all drunk and mad, but no great mischief ensued. Six
+Indian canoes likewise came in our absence loaden with men, women, and
+children, and brought with them clams out of the shells strung on lines.
+The Indian women dived for muscles, and brought them ashore in abundance,
+the men went to the fresh water river, and caught several fish like our
+English mullets. The people bought dogs of the Indians, which they kill'd
+and eat, esteeming the flesh very good food. The next day the Indians went
+out and caught a vast quantity of fish out of a pond, where they sent their
+dogs to hunt; the dogs dived, and drove the fish ashore in great numbers to
+one part of the pond, as if they had been drawn in a seyne; the Indians
+sold the fish to the people. This method of catching fish, is, I believe,
+unknown any where else, and was very surprising; and, what is also very
+strange, after the Indians went away, we hauled the seyne over the pond,
+and could never get a fish.
+
+Monday the 28th, returned with the barge; the first evening we were out we
+had a good harbour for the barge, which we put into; the first animal we
+saw was a fine large bitch big with puppies, we kill'd her, we then roasted
+one side and boiled the other, were exceedingly well pleased with our fare,
+supped heartily, and slept well. The next morning we got up at day-break,
+and proceeded on our cruize, finding all along the coast to be very
+dangerous; at evening put into a place of very good shelter for the barge:
+Here we found the Indians had been very lately, the shore being covered
+with the offals of seal; in an hour's time we killed ten wild fawn, we
+roasted three geese and two ducks, the rest we put into a sea pye, so that
+we fared most elegantly; got up at day-light next morning, but seeing the
+weather hazy and dirty, thought it not proper to put out with the barge,
+fearing we should not get a harbour before night; we took a walk five miles
+in the country cross the land to the southward, but could not see any
+shelter for the boat, being then twelve leagues from the place we came
+from, so we returned back in the evening, and got into a fine sandy bay; I
+think it as good a harbour for shipping as any I ever saw: Coming into this
+bay, saw the southmost land, which we had seen before, bearing about S.S.W.
+right over an inlet of land, above two miles. After landing, lived as we
+did last night; in the morning we walked over, where we found a deep bay,
+it being eighteen leagues deep, and twelve leagues broad; here we had a
+very good prospect of the coast; we found here the green pease that Sir
+John Narborough mentions in his book.
+
+Saturday, the 3d of October, after our return from the cruize, the
+lieutenant, the master, myself, the boatswain, and Mr J----s the mate, went
+to the captain, to acquaint him how forward the boat was, and to consult
+some measures to be observ'd on board the boat, to prevent mutiny; he
+desir'd a day or two to consider of it.
+
+On Monday, the 5th, the carpenter sent his case bottle, as usual, to the
+captain, to be filled with wine, but it was sent back empty, with this
+answer, I will give him none. This sudden change of the captain's behaviour
+to the carpenter, proceeded from some words which the latter dropt, and
+were carried to the captain; the words the carpenter spoke were to this
+purport, that he was not to be led by favour or affection, nor to be
+biassed by a bottle of brandy. To-day we heeled the long-boat, and caulked
+the star-board side, paid her bottom with wax, tallow, and soap that came
+out of the ship.
+
+Tuesday the 6th, hard gales at N.W. and N., with rain: This morning the
+lieutenant acquainted us of the captain's resolution, which was to be
+captain as before, and to be governed by the rules of the navy, and to
+stand or fall by them; it was objected in the present situation, the rules
+of the navy are not sufficient to direct us, several rules being requisite
+in our circumstances which are not mention'd there, that the whole body of
+officers and people are determin'd not to be govern'd by those rules at
+present. This objection was started, not from a disrespect to those rules,
+but we imagin'd, if Captain C----p was restor'd to the absolute command he
+had before the loss of the Wager, that he would proceed again on the same
+principles, never on any exigency consult his officers, but act
+arbitrarily, according to his humour and confidence of superior knowledge;
+while he acts with reason, we will support his command with our lives, but
+some restriction is necessary for our own preservation. We think him a
+gentleman worthy to have a limited command, but too dangerous a person to
+be trusted with an absolute one. This afternoon the people insisted to be
+serv'd brandy out of the casks that were buried under ground, accordingly
+they were serv'd half a pint each man. Got the long-boat upright.
+
+Thursday the 18th, this day the master went to the captain concerning ten
+half barrels of powder more than can be carried off, which will make good
+water casks for the boats; the captain told him not to start the powder, or
+destroy any thing, without his orders, and said, he must have time, to
+consider of it. In the afternoon Captain P--m-b--rt--n, of the land forces,
+came on the beach and desired the assistance of the seamen to take Captain
+C----p a prisoner, for the death of Mr Cozens, the midshipman, telling us,
+he should be call'd to an account, if he did not. This evening the
+carpenter went up to the hill-tent, so called from its situation; the
+people were shooting balls at marks, some of 'em were firing in vollies,
+without shot or sluggs; one of the men on the beach fir'd at the tent while
+the carpenter was in it, who was standing with a book in his hand; there
+was a piece of beef hung close at his cheek, the ball went through the tent
+and the beef, but the carpenter receiv'd no damage. To-day I overhaul'd the
+powder, and told the lieutenant that I had twenty-three half barrels in
+store, and that we could not carry off in the vessel above six half
+barrels, therefore proposed to start the overplus into the sea, and make
+water casks of the half barrels, they being very proper for that purpose. I
+desired him to acquaint the captain with my intention; that since he had no
+regard for the publick good, or any thing that tended to promoting it, the
+carpenter and I had determin'd never to go near him again. The lieutenant
+declin'd going, fearing the captain would murther him, but he sent the
+master to him, to let him know the necessity of starting the powder; the
+captain's answer to the master was, I desire you will not destroy any one
+thing without my orders. We now are convinc'd the captain hath no intention
+of going to the southward, notwithstanding he had lately given his word and
+honour that he would; therefore Captain P--mb--r-t--n, in order to put an
+end to all future obstructions, demanded our assistance to make him a
+prisoner for the shooting Mr Cozens, intending to carry him as such to
+England; at the same time to confine Lieutenant H----n with him, which was
+readily agreed to by the whole body. It was reckon'd dangerous to suffer
+the captain any longer to enjoy liberty, therefore the lieutenant, gunner,
+carpenter, and Mr J----s the mate, resolv'd next morning to surprize him in
+his bed.
+
+Friday the 9th, this morning went in a body and surpriz'd the captain in
+bed, disarm'd him, and took every thing out of his tent. The captain said
+to the seamen, What are you about? where are my officers? at which the
+master, gunner, carpenter, and boatswain, went in. The captain said,
+Gentlemen, do you know what you have done, or are about? He was answer'd,
+Yes, sir; our assistance was demanded by Captain P----n, to secure you as a
+prisoner for the death of Mr Cozens; and as we are subjects of Great
+Britain, we are oblig'd to take you as such to England. The captain said,
+Gentlemen, Captain P----n has nothing to do with me, I am your commander
+still, I will shew you my instructions, which he did to the people, on this
+we came out. He then call'd his officers a second time, and said, What is
+this for? He was answer'd as before, that assistance was demanded by
+Captain P----n to take him prisoner for the death of Mr Cozens. He still
+insisted, Captain P----n has no business with me, I could not think you
+would serve me so. It was told him, Sir, it is your own fault, you have
+given yourself no manner of concern for the publick good, on our going from
+hence, but have acted quite the reverse, or else been so careless and
+indifferent about it, as if we had no commander, and if other persons had
+given themselves no more trouble and concern than you have, we should not
+be ready to go from hence as long as provisions lasted. The captain said,
+Very well, gentlemen, you have caught me napping; I do not see any of you
+in liquor, you are a parcel of brave fellows, but my officers are
+scoundrels: Then turning himself to me, he said, Gunner, where's my
+lieutenant? did not he head you? I told him, No, sir, but was here to see
+it executed, and is here now. One of you, says the captain, call Mr B----s.
+When Mr B----s came, he said, What is all this for, sir? Sir, it is Captain
+P----n's order. Captain P----n hath no business with me, and you will
+answer for it hereafter, if I do not live to see England, I hope some of my
+friends will. On this the lieutenant left him. The captain then address'd
+himself to the seamen, saying, My lads, I do not blame you, but it is the
+villainy of my officers, which they will answer for hereafter. He then
+call'd Mr B----s again, and said, Well, sir, what do you design to do by
+me? The lieutenant answer'd, Sir, your officers have design'd the purser's
+tent for you. Hum! I should be obliged to the gentlemen, if they would let
+me stay in my own tent. The lieutenant came to acquaint the officers of the
+captain's request, but they judg'd it inconvenient, as Mr H----n's tent
+join'd the purser's, one guard might serve 'em both; accordingly all his
+things were mov'd to the purser's tent: As he was coming along, he said,
+Gentlemen, you must excuse my not pulling my hat off, my hands are
+confin'd. Well, Captain B----s you will be call'd to an account for this
+hereafter. The boatswain, after the captain's confinement, most barbarously
+insulted him, reproaching him with striking him, saying, Then it was your
+time, but now, G--d d--n you, it is mine; The captain made no reply but
+this, You are a scoundrel for using a gentleman ill when he is a prisoner.
+When the captain was a prisoner, he declar'd, he never intended to go to
+the southward, having more honour than to turn his back on his enemies; and
+farther, he said, Gentlemen, I do not want to go off in any of your craft,
+for I never design'd to go for England, and would rather cause to be shot
+by you; there is not a single man on the beach dare engage me, but this is
+what I fear'd.
+
+It is very odd, that Captain C----p should now declare be never intended to
+go to the southward, when he publickly gave his word and honour he would go
+that way, or any way where the spirit of the people led: But he afterwards
+told his officers, he knew he had a severe trial to go through, if ever he
+came to England; and as for those who liv'd to return to their country, the
+only favour he requested from them, was to declare the truth, without
+favour or prejudice, and this we promis'd faithfully to do: His words, in
+this respect, were as much regarded by us as the words of a dying man, and
+have been most punctually observ'd.
+
+Saturday the 10th, little wind at N. and N.W. Getting all ready for going
+off this afternoon, the captain sent for the lieutenant and me, desiring us
+both to go to Captain P----n, to know what he intended to do with him. We
+accordingly came, and both promised to go directly, and bring him his
+answer. When we came out, went to the lieutenant's tent; from thence I
+expected, and made no doubt but he would go to Captain P----n's: But when I
+ask'd him he refused, which very much surprised me. I thought it very
+ungenerous to trifle with Captain C----p, or any gentleman in his unhappy
+situation; therefore went alone to Captain Pemberton. When I delivered him
+Captain C----p's message the answer was, I design, and must carry him
+prisoner to England. I return'd, and acquainted Captain C----p with Captain
+P----n's answer: He ask'd me then if the lieutenant was with me. I told
+him, no; and I believe did not design it. He said, Mr Bulkeley, I am very
+much obliged to you, and could not think the lieutenant would use me thus.
+In the evening the lieutenant and I were sent for again: The captain said
+to the lieutenant, Sir, have you been with Captain P----n? He answer'd, No,
+sir. I thought, sir, you promised me you would: However, I have his answer
+from Mr Bulkeley; I am to be carried a prisoner to England. Gentlemen, I
+shall never live to see England, but die by inches in the voyage; and it is
+surprising to me to think what you can expect by going to the southward,
+where there are ten thousand difficulties to be encounter'd with: I am
+sorry so many brave fellows should be led to go where they are not
+acquainted, when, by going to the northward, there is the island of Chili,
+not above ninety leagues, where we need not fear taking prizes, and may
+have a chance to see the commodore. I made answer, Sir, you have said that
+we shall be call'd to an account for this in England: I must tell you, for
+my part, had I been guilty of any crime, and was sure of being hang'd for
+it in England, I would make it my choice to go there, sooner than to the
+northward: Have not you given your word and honour to go to the southward?
+It is true there is a chance in going to the northward, by delivering us
+from this unhappy situation of life to a worse, viz. a Spanish prison. The
+captain said no more but this, Gentlemen, I wish you well and safe to
+England.
+
+Sunday the 11th, this morning the captain sent for me, and told me he had
+rather be shot than carried off a prisoner, and that he would not go off
+with us; therefore desired me to ask the people to suffer him to remain on
+the island: The people readily agreed to his request, and also consented to
+leave him all things needful for his support, as much as could be spared.
+Lieutenant H----n and the surgeon chose to stay with him. We offer'd him
+also the barge and yawl, if he could procure men to go with him. The
+question was proposed before the whole body, but they all cry'd aloud for
+England, and let him stay and be d----'d; does he want to carry us to a
+prison? There is not a man will go. The captain being deprived of his
+command in the manner above mentioned, and for the reasons already given,
+it was resolved to draw some articles to be sign'd for the good of the
+community, and to give the lieutenant a limited command. The paper was
+drawn up in this manner:--
+
+
+"Whereas Captain David C----p, our commander in his majesty's ship the
+Wager, never consulted any of his officers for the safety and preservation
+of the said ship, and his majesty's subjects thereto belonging, but several
+times, since the unhappy loss of the said ship, he has been solicited in
+the most dutiful manner, promising him at the same time to support his
+command with our lives, desiring no more than to go off heart in hand from
+this place to the southward, which he gave his word and honour to do; and
+being almost ready for sailing, did apply to him some few days past, to
+draw up some proper articles, in order to suppress mutiny, and other
+material things, which were thought necessary to be agreed to before we
+went off; but he, in the most scornful manner, hath rejected every thing
+proposed for the public good, and as he is now a prisoner, and the command
+given to the lieutenant, upon his approbation of the following articles:
+
+"First, As we have no conveniency for dressing provisions, on board the
+vessel, for a third part of the number to be carried off the spot,
+therefore this day served out to every man and boy twelve days' provision,
+for them to dress before we go off; and also it is agreed, that whoever is
+guilty of defrauding another of any part of his allowance, on sufficient
+proof thereof, the person found guilty (without any respect of person)
+shall be put on shore at the first convenient place, and left there.
+
+"Secondly, In regard to the boats going off with us, we think proper to
+allow one week's provision for each man appointed to go in them, in order
+to prevent separation from each other, which would be of the worst
+consequence of any thing that can happen to us: To prevent which, we do
+agree, that when under way they shall not separate, but always keep within
+musket-shot, and on no pretence or excuse whatsoever go beyond that reach.
+The officer, or any other person, that shall attempt a separation, or
+exceed the above-mention'd bounds, shall, on proof, be put on shore, and
+left behind.
+
+"Thirdly, It is agreed, in order to suppress mutiny, and prevent broils and
+quarrels on board the vessel, that no man shall threaten the life of
+another, or offer violence in any shape, the offender, without any respect
+of station or quality, being found guilty, shall be put on shore, and left
+behind.
+
+"Fourthly, We do agree, whatever fowl, fish, or necessaries of life, we
+shall happen to meet with on our passage, the same shall be divided among
+the whole, and if Captain David C----p shall, be put on board a prisoner,
+it shall not be in the lieutenant's power to release him.
+
+"The aforesaid articles were agreed to, and sign'd by the undermention'd,
+
+Robert Beans, lieutenant
+Thomas Clark, master
+John King, boatswain
+John Bulkeley, gunner
+John Cummins, carpenter
+Thomas Harvey, purser
+Robert Elliot, surgeon's mate
+John Jones, master's mate
+John Snow, ditto
+The Hon. John Byron, midshipman
+Alexander Campbell, ditto
+Isaac Morris, ditto
+Thomas Maclean, cook
+Richard Phipps, boatswain's mate
+John Mooring, ditto
+Matthew Langley, gunner's mate
+Guy Broadwater, coxswain
+Samuel Stook, seaman
+Joseph Clinch, ditto
+John Duck, ditto
+Peter Plastow, captain's steward
+John Pitman, butcher
+David Buckley, quarter-gunner
+Richard Noble, quarter-master
+William Moore, captain's cook
+George Smith, seaman
+Benjamin Smith, ditto
+William Oram, carpenter's mate
+John Hart, joiner
+John Bosman, seaman
+William Harvey, quarter-gunner
+Richard East, seaman
+Samuel Cooper, ditto
+Job Barns, ditto
+Joseph Butler, ditto
+William Rose, quarter-master
+John Shoreham, seaman
+John Hayes, ditto
+Henry Stephens, ditto
+William Callicutt, ditto
+John Russel, armourer
+James MacCawle, seaman
+William Lane, ditto
+James Roach, ditto
+John George, ditto
+John Young, cooper
+Moses Lewis, gunner's mate
+Nicholas Griselham, seaman."
+
+
+Monday the 12th, at day-light, launch'd the long-boat, and gave her the
+name of the Speedwell, (which God preserved to deliver us) we got all the
+provision on board, and other necessaries. The captain sent for the
+lieutenant, myself, and the carpenter, desiring us to leave him what could
+be spared, and to send to the deserters to know if they will go in the yawl
+to the northward, we promised to grant him his request. To-day every body
+got on board. The captain, surgeon, and Mr H----n, had their share of
+provisions equal with us.
+
+Tuesday the 13th, we sent the barge to the deserters, with Mr S----w, the
+mate, to know if they were willing to tarry, and go with the captain to the
+northward, to acquaint them what provision and necessaries should be
+allow'd 'em: They readily agreed to tarry. On the return of the boat,
+deliver'd to the captain the share of provision for the deserters, and
+sundry necessaries, as under-mentioned, viz.
+
+Six hand-grenadoes, five half barrels of powder, two caggs of musket-balls,
+Lieutenant H----n's pistols and gun, one pair of pistols for the captain,
+twelve musket-flints, six pistol-flints, sundry carpenter's tools, half a
+pint of sweet oil, two swords of the captain's own, five muskets, twelve
+pistol balls, one bible, one azimuth compass, one quadrant, and one
+Gunter's scale.
+
+Provision deliver'd to the captain, surgeon, and Lieutenant K----n, with
+eight deserters, which last are to be at half allowance of the quantity
+made out to the people, which make the whole number seven at whole
+allowance.
+
+To the captain, surgeon, and Lieutenant H----n, six pieces of beef, six
+pieces of pork, and ninety pound of flour; for the deserters, eight pieces
+of beef, eight pieces of pork, one hundred weight of flour.
+
+As soon as the above things were delivered, we got ready for sailing. I
+went and took my leave of the captain; he repeated his injunction, that at
+my return to England I would impartially relate all proceedings: He spoke
+to me in the most tender and affectionate manner, and, as a token of his
+friendship and regard for me, desired me to accept of a suit of his best
+wearing apparel: At parting he gave me his hand with a great deal of
+chearfulness, wishing me well and safe to England. This was the last time I
+ever saw the unfortunate Captain C----p. However, we hope to see him again
+in England, that Mr Cummins and myself may be freed from some heavy
+imputations to our prejudice, laid on us by the gentleman who succeeded him
+in command, and who, having an opportunity of arriving before us in
+England, not only in the places he touched at abroad, but at home, has
+blackened us with the greatest calumnies, and by an imperfect narrative,
+has not only traduced us, but made the whole affair so dark and mystical,
+that till the captain's arrival the l----s of the a----y will not decide
+for or against us. But if that unfortunate captain never returns to his
+country, let us do so much justice to his character, to declare that he was
+a gentleman possessed of many virtues: He was an excellent seaman himself,
+and loved a seaman; as for personal bravery, no man, had a larger share of
+it; even when a prisoner he preserved the dignity of a commander, no
+misfortune could dispirit or deject him, and fear was a weakness he was
+entirely a stranger to; the loss of the ship was the loss of him; he knew
+how to govern while he was a commander on board, but when things were
+brought to confusion and disorder, he thought to establish his command
+ashore by his courage, and to suppress the least insult on his authority on
+the first occasion; an instance of this was seen on the boatswain's first
+appearing ashore--shooting Mr Cozens, and treating him in the manner he did
+after his confinement, was highly resented by the people, who soon got the
+power in their own hands; the officers only had the name, and they were
+often compelled, for the preservation of their lives, to comply sometimes
+with their most unreasonable demands; and it is a miracle, amidst the
+wildness and distraction of the people, that there was no more bloodshed.
+
+At eleven in the forenoon, the whole body of people embarked, to the number
+of eighty-one souls, fifty-nine on board the vessel, on board the cutter
+twelve, and in the barge ten. At noon got under sail, the wind at N.W. by
+W. The captain, surgeon, and Mr H----n, being on the shore side, we gave
+them three cheers, which they returned. Coming out of Wager's Bay, split
+the foresail, and very narrowly escaped the rocks; with the assistance of
+the barge and our own oars, tow'd her clear, and bore away into a large
+sandy bay, on the south side of the lagoon, which we called by the name of
+the Speedwell Bay. At four in the afternoon, anchored in ten fathom fine
+sand, the barge and cutter went ashore, there not being room on board the
+boat to lodge the people.
+
+Wednesday the 14th, fresh gales at S.W. and W., with rain. At three this
+afternoon, being fair weather, weigh'd, and came to sail to take a cruize
+up the lagoon, to try the vessel, it being smooth water she work'd very
+well; after three or four trips returned, and anchor'd where we came from.
+
+
+"These are to certify the right honourable the lords commissioners for
+executing the office of lord high admiral of Great Britain, That we, whose
+names are under-mentioned, do beg leave to acquaint your lordships that
+Captain David Cheap, our late commander in his majesty's ship Wager, having
+publicly declared, that he will never go off this spot, at his own request
+desires to be left behind; but Captain Pemberton, of his majesty's land
+forces, having confined him a prisoner for the death of Mr Henry Cozens,
+midshipman, with Lieutenant Hamilton, for breaking his confinement, did
+insist on delivering them up on the beach to the charge of Lieutenant
+Beans, but he, with his officers and people, consulting the ill
+consequences that might attend carrying two prisoners off in so small a
+vessel, and for so long and tedious a passage as we are likely to have, and
+that they might have opportunities of acting such things in secret as may
+prove destructive to the whole body; and also in regard to the chief
+article of life, as the greatest part of the people must be obliged at
+every place we stop, to go on shore in search of provisions, and there
+being now no less than eighty-one souls in this small vessel, which we hope
+to be delivered in, we therefore, to prevent any difficulties to be added
+to the unforeseen we have to encounter with, think proper to agree, and in
+order to prevent murder, to comply with Captain David Cheap's request: The
+surgeon also begs leave to be left with him. Dated on board the Speedwell
+schooner, in Cheap's Bay, this 14th day of October, 1741.
+
+Robert Beans, lieutenant
+Thomas Clark, master
+John King, boatswain
+John Bulkeley, gunner
+John Cummins, master
+Robert Elliot, surgeon's mate
+John Jones, master's mate
+John Snow, ditto
+Captain Pemberton, of his majesty's land forces
+Vincent Oakley, surgeon of ditto."
+
+
+Thursday the 15th, this morning it being calm, made a signal for the boats
+to come off, by firing five muskets. At day-light came to sail, with the
+wind at W. by N. It blowing hard, and a great swell, the vessel would not
+work, therefore we were obliged to put into a small bay, lying S.W. of
+Harvey's Bay, where we had very good shelter, there being a large ledge of
+rocks without us, which broke the sea off. At eleven we sent the barge to
+Cheap's Bay, for what canvass could be found serviceable, having left a
+sufficient quantity behind to supply us with sails, in case we wanted 'em.
+Went in the barge the Hon. John Byron, at his own request, Alexander
+Campbell, midshipman; William Harvey, quarter-gunner; David Buckley, ditto;
+William Rose, quarter-master; Richard Noble, ditto; Peter Plastow,
+captain's steward; Joseph Clinch, seaman, and Rowland Crusset, marine. This
+afternoon the carpenter went ashore in the cutter, with several of the
+people, to look for provender. Shot several geese, and other sea-fowl.
+Rainy weather. Wind W.N.W.
+
+Friday the 16th, continual rain, and hard gales all night at S.W. This
+morning the carpenter came on board, and acquainted us that he saw an
+anchor of seven feet in the shank, the palm of each arm filed off just
+above the crown: This anchor we suppose to have belonged to some small
+vessel wreck'd on the coast. The cutter brought off abundance of shell-fish
+ready dress'd for the people.
+
+Sunday, the 18th, at noon, the cutter came off, and brought aboard plenty
+of shell-fish and greens. The Hon. Mr B----n, Mr C----l, and three of the
+barge's crew, came from where the barge lay. Mr B----n came aboard, and
+inform'd us of the barge being safe in the bay where we left her, and only
+waited the opportunity of weather to come round with her: At the same time
+he desired to know if we would give him, and those who would stay with
+Captain C----p, their share of provisions. This question of Mr B----n's
+very much surprized us; and what surprized us more was, that he should be
+influenced by Mr C----l, a person whom he always held in contempt. As for
+my part, I believe Mr B----n left us because he could not get an
+accommodation aboard the vessel that he liked, being obliged to lie forward
+with the men; as were also the carpenter and myself when below: It is very
+certain, that we are so closely pent up for want of room, that the worst
+jail in England is a palace to our present situation.
+
+Tuesday the 20th, served out to the people eight days' flour, to be dress'd
+ashore. I went in the cutter to command in my turn for a week.
+
+Wednesday the 21st, close weather; the wind from W. to N.W., with rain and
+hail. Brought aboard shell-fish in abundance. At noon the Honourable Mr
+B----n came with some of the crew over-land; he ask'd me whether the boat's
+crew were gone off, and if we had served the provision, for he wanted to
+return to the barge. I told him all the people were out a-fishing, and that
+the first who came in should carry him off. On which he said, I think we
+will go and get some fish too, having nothing else to live on. This was the
+last time I ever saw his honour. When the people return'd from fishing,
+they told me Mr B----n had lost his hat, the wind blowing it off his head.
+I said, rather than he should want a hat I would give him my own. One of
+the seamen forced a hat on his head; his name was John Duck: But Mr B----n
+would by no means wear it, saying, John, I thank you, if I accept of your
+kindness you must go bareheaded, and I think I can bear hardships as well
+as the best of you, and must use myself to them. I took eight people and
+went overland to the place where the barge lay, to get the canvass that we
+stood so much in need of, but found that she was gone from thence. The
+people in the barge told our men that they would return to us again, but it
+is plain they never intended it.
+
+Thursday the 22d, this day we saw sea-fowl in vast flocks, flying to the
+southward, where was a dead whale. Look'd out all this day for the barge,
+but to no purpose. The barge not returning was a very great misfortune,
+having no boat but the cutter; and if by an unlucky accident we lose her,
+we must be reduced to the greatest extremities to get provision. The
+persons in the barge, except the captain's steward, always approved of
+going to the southward, but it seems Mr C----l, the poltron, prevail'd on
+'em to return to Captain C----p.
+
+Friday the 23d, saw thousands of sea-fowl; in the morning they fly to the
+northward, and in the evening come back to the south; they are birds of a
+very large size, but of what kind we do not know. Since we have been here
+we saw several Indian graves; they are dug just within the surface of the
+earth, with a board on each side, and a cross stuck, up at the head. The
+day following, a gun, a four-pounder, was seen near the anchor in Clam Bay;
+we call it by this name, because of the vast quantities of this sort of
+shell-fish which are found there.
+
+Monday the 26th, it being very calm and fair weather, I went ashore to
+bring off the people; weigh'd the longboat, and took her in tow over a bar
+where there was ten feet water, but a great swell; as soon as we got over
+the bar there sprung up a breeze of wind at N.W., steer'd away S. 1/2 E.
+for the southmost part of land, which bore S. by E., distant fourteen
+leagues. The two points of land make a large and deep sandy bay, we sounded
+but found no ground; it is a bold shore close to. I kept a-head in the
+cutter, in order to provide a harbour for the long-boat; Providence
+directed us to a very good one: It blew so hard, with thick hazy weather,
+that we could not keep the sea. At eight at night we anchor'd in eight
+fathom water, a-breast of a fine sandy bay, and land-locked not above three
+boats length from the shore: At the entrance of the harbour, which lies
+about a league up the lagoon, I set the land, the northmost point bore by
+the compass N. by E., distant twelve leagues, and the southmost S. by W.,
+distant five leagues; the entrance lies E.
+
+Tuesday the 27th, fresh gales at west, and cloudy weather, with a great
+swell without, insomuch that we could not put out to sea; we therefore sent
+the people ashore to dress their provisions; each man is allow'd but a
+quarter of a pound of flour per day, without any other subsistence but what
+Providence brings in our way.
+
+Thursday, the 29th, early this morning it being calm and thick weather,
+with small rain, we rowed out of the lagoon; at five it cleared up, with a
+fresh breeze at S.S.E., steer'd S.W. and S.W. by W., saw a small island
+bearing S. by W., the southmost end S. by E. This island we called the rock
+of Dundee, it being much like that island in the West-Indies, but not so
+large; it lieth about four leagues distant from the southmost point of land
+out at sea. This day it blow'd so hard that we were obliged to take the
+cutter in tow.
+
+Friday the 30th, hard gales, and a great sea; saw some islands and some
+sunken rocks; at six saw the main in two points of land, with a large
+opening; on each side the sunken rocks are innumerable; the entrance is so
+dangerous, that no mortal would attempt it unless his case was desperate as
+ours, we have nothing but death before our eyes in keeping the sea, and the
+same prospect in running in with the land: We ran in before the wind to the
+opening that appear'd between the two points, the northmost of which bore
+N. by E., and the southmost S. by E. We steered in east, and found the
+opening to be a large lagoon on the southmost side, running into a very
+good harbour; here our small vessel lay secure in a cove, which nature had
+form'd like a dock; we had no occasion to let go our anchor, but ran
+alongside the land, and made fast our head and stern. The people went
+ashore in search of provision; here we found plenty of wood and water, and
+fine large muscles in great quantities. Served to each man half a piece of
+beef.
+
+Saturday the 31st, this morning cast loose and row'd towards the mouth of
+the lagoons, designing to put out to sea, but the wind blew so hard that we
+were obliged to come to an anchor. This afternoon, in weighing the grapnel
+in order to go to the cove, we found it foul among some rocks, all hands
+haul'd, took a turn round the main-mast and went aft, which weighed the
+grapnel, but straightened one of the flukes: Here the land is very high and
+steep on each side, the carpenter and cooper were on the highest of these
+hills, and found deep ponds of water on the top of them; these hills are
+very rocky, and there are great falls of water all along the coast: The
+whole navy of England may lie with safety in many of those lagoons, but the
+coast is too dangerous for any ship to fall in with the land. The people
+today were very much afflicted with the gripes and pains in their side.
+Here are abundance of trees, not unlike our yew-trees, they are not above
+seven or eight inches in diameter, and the bark is like cedar. The land is
+to appearance very good, but on digging beneath the surface we find it
+almost an entire stone. We saw no people here, though it is plain there
+have been some lately, by their wigwams or huts. We are so closely pent up
+for want of room, that our lodging is very uncomfortable; the stench of the
+men's wet cloaths makes the air we breathe nauseous to that degree, that
+one would think it impossible for a man to live below. We came to sail, and
+steered out of the lagoon west; went into a sandy bay one league to the
+southward of the lagoon. Indian huts to be seen, but no natives.
+
+Monday November 2d, at five in the morning, came to sail with the wind at
+S. and S. by E. At noon the wind came to the W. and W.N.W. in small
+breezes. This day I had a very good observation, it being the first since
+we left Cheap's Island. We found ourselves in the latitude of 50° 0' S.
+After observing, bore away and ran into a fine smooth passage between the
+island and the main. These islands I believe to be the same that are taken
+notice of in Cook's voyage. From the entrance to the northward, to the
+going out of the Cape of Good Hope (as we call it) the distance is about
+six leagues, and the depth of the water is from two fathom to twelve; the
+northmost land before we came into the passage bore N. by W., and the
+southmost, or Cape of Good Hope, bore S. by E. In the evening anchored in a
+fine sandy bay; here we also saw Indian huts, but no people. To-day we shot
+wild geese in abundance, and got of shell-fish, as limpets and muscles.
+
+Tuesday the 3d, at four this morning weighed, and came to sail with the
+wind at W., till we got about the Cape of Good Hope, then at W.N.W.,
+steering S., and a tumbling sea from the W. The cutter steer'd S. by E.
+into a deep bay; supposing them not to see the southmost land, we made the
+signal for her, by hoisting an ensign at the topping-lift; as the cutter
+was coming up to us her square sail splitted, we offer'd to take them in
+tow, but they would not accept it; we lay with our sails down some time
+before they would show any signal of making sail; coming before the wind,
+and a large sea, we ordered them to steer away for the southmost point of
+land after us, and to keep as near us as possible; but, instead of
+observing our directions, they steered away into the cod of a deep bay,
+supposed to be King's Bay: The cutter being much to leeward, and the
+weather being very thick, we were obliged to steer after her, but soon lost
+sight of her. The place being exceeding dangerous, we could not venture any
+farther after the cutter, therefore we hauled by the wind to the southward,
+it continued blowing hard, with thick weather, with sunken rocks and
+breakers, so that we were obliged to bear away before the wind into a large
+bay, the tide running rampant, and in a great swell, every where surrounded
+with sunken rocks, that we thought nothing but a miracle could save
+us: at last we got safe into the bay, and came to in two fathom water, we
+steered in east. At four this morning rowed out between the islands, after
+we got out had a fresh breeze at N.W., steered out S.S.W. then S. and S. by
+E., the cutter a-head. At seven in the morning a-breast of Cape Good Hope,
+saw a large high rock bearing S., steered S. by E., going within it, and
+the main a-breast of the rocks, saw a long point making into islands
+bearing S. by E., steer'd S. until a-breast of them: The same day saw a
+very high land, with a low point running off in small hommacoes, bearing
+from the northmost point S. by E. about eighteen leagues; between those two
+points is a large deep bay, all within surrounded with rocks and small
+islands, steered S. and S. by W. for the outermost point, the cutter
+keeping within, and we considering the ill consequence of being embayed, to
+prevent which we hauled the mainsail and foresail down, and kept the vessel
+before the wind; at eleven the cutter came alongside, with her mainsail
+split; we called to them to take hold of a tow-rope, but they refused,
+telling us that the boat would not bear towing, by reason of the swell of
+the sea, therefore they would have us nearer the shore, where we should
+have smooth water; we answered them that the water was smoother without,
+and nothing nigh the sea that runs within; besides, we shall be embay'd,
+therefore we desire you to come on board the vessel, and we'll take the
+boat in tow: They had no regard to what we said; we at the same time, for
+above a quarter of an hour, lay in the trough of the sea, with a fair wind:
+The people in the cutter would neither make sail nor row, at last, finding
+them obstinate, we hoisted a skirt of the mainsail, and edged farther off,
+S. by W.; when they found we would not go into that bay, they hoisted their
+mainsail, and went a-head; being some distance a-head, we made sail, the
+cutter still keeping a-head till one o'clock, then she bore away S. by E.
+and S.S.E., the reason of which we could not tell, it blowing very hard,
+with a great sea, nothing before us but rocks and breakers, therefore of
+consequence the farther in the sea must be the greater. At half an hour
+past two, the cutter being on the beam, and four miles within us, we bore
+away after them, and in a very heavy squall of wind and rain we lost sight
+of her: After the squall was over it cleared up, but we saw nothing of the
+cutter, nor could we clear the shore to the northward, being not above two
+miles off the breakers; therefore we were under a necessity of hauling to
+the southward for self-preservation, and very narrowly escaped clearing the
+rocks: After running about three leagues, saw an opening, where we hoped to
+find a good harbour; Bore away for the opening, we were here again
+surrounded with rocks and breakers, with a hard gale of wind and a great
+sea, the oldest seaman on board never saw a more dismal prospect; we ran in
+before the wind for about two leagues; expecting every rise and fall of the
+sea to be a wreck, but Providence at length conducted us to an indifferent
+place of shelter: We were now in a most wretched condition, having no boat
+to go ashore in, to seek for provender, and the greatest part of the people
+on board are so regardless of life, that they really appear quite
+indifferent whether they shall live or die, and it is with much intreaty
+that any of them can be prevailed on to come upon deck, to assist for their
+preservation.
+
+The people's names in the cutter are as follow, viz.
+
+
+Names.              Quality.          Age.      Where born.
+
+Thomas Harvey,      purser,            23       Westminster.
+John Mooring,       boatswain's mate,  34       Gosport.
+William Oram,       carpenter's crew,  28       Philadelphia.
+Richard Phipps,     boatswain's mate,  30       Bristol.
+Matthew Lively,     gunner's mate,     34       Exeter.
+John George,        seaman,            22       Wandsworth.
+Nicholas Griselham, ditto,             31       Ipswich.
+James Stewart,      ditto,             35       Aberdeen.
+James Roach,        ditto,             21       Cork.
+James Butler,       ditto,             32       Dublin.
+John Allen,         ditto,             18       Gosport.
+
+
+Wednesday the 4th, hard gales at W.N.W., and a great sea without; served
+out flour and a piece of beef to two men for a week's subsistence; the
+weather is so bad that there is no other food to be got.
+
+Thursday the 5th, little wind at S.W., with heavy rains; at six this
+morning went under sail, but could make no hand of it, therefore were
+obliged to put back again: As soon as we came to an anchor, the boatswain
+employed himself in making a raft to get ashore with; this raft was made
+with oars and water barrels; when it was made, and over the side, it would
+carry three men, but it was no sooner put off from the vessel's side but it
+canted, and obliged the people to swim for their lives; the boatswain got
+hold of the raft, and with some difficulty reach'd the shore; when he came
+off in the evening, he informed us he had seen a beef puncheon, which gave
+us some reason to apprehend some other ship of the squadron had suffered
+our fate.
+
+Friday the 6th, this morning went under sail, the wind at W.N.W., with
+fresh gales and heavy rain, the wind came to the westward, and a great sea,
+so that we could not turn out over the bar: In our putting back we saw the
+cutter, a very agreeable sight, which gave us new life; in the evening
+anchored at the place sailed from, the carpenter and others went ashore to
+get shell-fish, which we stood in great need of; at night the proper boat's
+crew would not go ashore with the boat as usual, but made her fast a-stern
+of the vessel, with only two men in her, she never being left without four
+before; at eleven at night one of the men came out of her into the vessel,
+it blowing very hard at N.N.E., in half an hour shifted to N.W., and rainy
+weather, that we could not see a boat's length: At two the next morning the
+cutter broke loose from the stern of the vessel; we called from on board to
+James Stewart, the man that was in her, but he could not hear us: In a
+short time we lost sight of her, believing she must be stove among the
+rocks. The loss of the cutter gives the few thinking people aboard a great
+deal of uneasiness; we have seventy-two men in the vessel, and not above
+six of that number that gives themselves the least concern for the
+preservation of their lives, but are rather the reverse, being ripe for
+mutiny and destruction; this is a great affliction to the lieutenant,
+myself, and the carpenter, we know not what to do to bring them under any
+command, they have troubled us to that degree, that we are weary of our
+lives; therefore, this day we have told the people, that unless they alter
+their conduct, and subject themselves to command, that we will leave them
+to themselves, and take our chance in this desolate part of the globe,
+rather than give ourselves any farther concern about so many thoughtless
+wretches. Divided the people into four watches, to make more room below.
+The people have promised to be under government, and seem much easier.
+
+Sunday the 8th, this morning the people requested provisions to be served;
+it being four days before the usual time, we think the request very
+unreasonable. We laid the inconveniences before them of breaking in upon
+our stores, considering the badness of the weather, and the length of our
+passage, that if we are not exceedingly provident in regard to serving out
+provisions, we must all inevitably starve. They will not hearken to reason,
+therefore we are obliged to comply with their demands, and serve out
+provisions accordingly. Several of the people have desired to be put on
+shore, desiring us to allow them some few necessaries: We wanted to know
+what could induce them to request our putting them ashore in this remote
+and desolate part of the world: They answered, they did not fear doing
+well, and doubted not but to find the cutter, which, if they did, they
+would go back to the northward, otherwise they would make a canoe;
+therefore insisted on going ashore. On their earnest intreaties the body of
+people agreed to their request: We haul'd the boat close in shore; the
+people who chose to stay behind were eleven in number, we supply'd them
+with proper necessaries, and they signed a certificate, to inform the L----
+s of the A----y, that they were not compelled to stay, but made it their
+own choice, and that they did it for the preservation of themselves and us.
+
+
+_A Copy of their Certificate_.
+
+
+"These are to certify, the right honourable the lords commissioners for
+executing the office of lord high admiral of Great Britain, &c. That we,
+whose names are undermentioned, since the misfortune of losing the cutter,
+have consider'd the ill conveniences and difficulties to be attended, where
+so great a number of people are to be carried off, therefore we have
+requested and desired the officers and company remaining of the same vessel
+to put us on shore, with such necessaries of life as can be conveniently
+spared out of the vessel. We, of our own free will and choice, do indemnify
+all persons from ever being call'd to an account for putting us on shore,
+or leaving us behind, contrary to our inclinations. Witness our hands, on
+board the Speedwell schooner, in the latitude 50° 40' S. this 8th day of
+November, 1741. Which was signed by the following people, viz.
+
+Mat. Langley, gunner's mate
+John Russel, armourer
+George Smith, cook's mate
+William Callicutt, washerman
+John Williamson, marine
+John McLeod, boatswain's servant
+John Hart, joiner
+Joseph Turner, captain's servant
+Luke Lyon, gunner's servant
+Rich. Phipps, boatswain's mate
+Henry Mortimer, marine.
+Witness, John Cummins, carpenter,
+         John Snow, master's mate,
+         Vincent Oakley, surgeon of the army."
+
+
+Monday the 9th, at ten at night, we weigh'd and rowed out of the bay, at
+day-light got about four leagues right out, every way surrounded with rocks
+and breakers, with a great western swell: We found it a very difficult
+matter to get clear of these rocks and breakers; they reach along shore
+eighteen leagues, and without us at sea eight leagues; I take it, that from
+the land they are fourteen leagues in the offing, those sunken rocks appear
+like a low level land. This coast is too dangerous for shipping, the wind
+being three parts of the year to the westward, which blows right on the
+shore, with a large western swell, that seldom or never ceases; it always
+blows and rains, it is worse here than in the rainy season on the coast of
+Guinea, nor can we as yet distinguish summer from winter, only by the
+length of the days. Steered out of the bay W. by N., then S. by W., then S.
+At noon I had a good observation in the latitude of 50° 50' S., the
+northmost point of the bay bore N.E. by E. seven leagues, the southmost
+point of land S.S.E. twelve leagues. This coast, as far as we have come,
+lies N. by E. and S. by W. by the compass.
+
+Tuesday the 10th, at four this morning made all the sail we could; steering
+S.E. in order to make the land, at six steer'd in E.S.E. at seven made the
+land; at eight saw a point of land bearing S.E. distant six leagues, which,
+when a-breast, seeing no land to the S. I take the point for Cape Victory,
+and the four islands we see I believe to be the islands of Direction, which
+Sir John Narborough gives an account of, excepting the distance, they
+exactly answer his description; therefore, by the latitude, in yesterday's
+observation, and by the distance we have run since, we are now at the
+opening of the Streights of Magellan. At ten in the morning, hard gales at
+N.W. steer'd S.E. the cape bearing E. distant four leagues; at noon bore E.
+by N. distant six leagues; haul'd the main-sail down, and went under a
+fore-sail. I never in my life, in any part of the world, have seen such a
+sea as runs here, we expected every wave to swallow us, and the boat to
+founder. This shore is full of small islands, rocks, and breakers, so that
+we can't haul further to the southward, for fear of endangering the boat,
+we are obliged to keep her right before the sea. At five broach'd to, at
+which we all believ'd she would never rise again. We were surrounded with
+rocks, and so near that a man might toss a biscuit on 'em: We had nothing
+but death before our eyes, and every moment expected our fate. It blew a
+hurricane of wind, with thick rainy weather, that we could not see twice
+the boat's length; we pray'd earnestly for its clearing up, for nothing
+else could save us from perishing; we no sooner ask'd for light, but it was
+granted us from above. At the weather's clearing up, we saw the land on the
+north shore, with islands, rocks and breakers all around us; we were
+oblig'd to put in among 'em for shelter, finding it impossible to keep the
+sea, we were in with the land amongst them, and compell'd to push thro',
+looking death in the face, and expecting every sea to bury us; the boldest
+men amongst us were dismay'd, nor can we possibly give an account in what
+manner we have been this day deliver'd. After sailing amidst islands,
+rocks, and breakers, for above a league, we got safe into a good harbour,
+surrounded with small islands, which kept the sea off; here the water was
+as smooth as in a mill-pond. We call this harbour the Port of God's Mercy,
+esteeming our preservation this day to be a miracle. The most abandon'd
+among us no longer doubt of an Almighty Being, and have promis'd to reform
+their lives.
+
+Wednesday the 11th, the wind much abated, with rain. This morning weigh'd,
+and ran farther in. In the evening we saw two Indians lying on their
+bellies on the top of a steep rock, just over the vessel, peeping with
+their heads over the hill. As soon as we discover'd them, we made motions
+to them to come down; they then rose up, and put on their heads white
+feather'd caps; we then hoisted a white sheet for an ensign: At this they
+made a noise, pronouncing Orza, Orza, which we took for a signal to come
+ashore. We would not suffer above two men to go ashore, and those disarm'd,
+lest we should put them in fear. The Indians had nothing in their hands but
+a club, like our cricket-batts, with which they kill their seal. As soon as
+they saw the two men come ashore they walk'd away, and when they perceiv'd
+our men follow'd them, and gain'd ground of them, they took to their heels,
+frequently looking back, crying Orza, Orza, beckoning the people to follow,
+which they did for a mile or two along-shore, out of sight of the vessel:
+Then the Indians fled to the woods, still wanting our people to follow
+them; but being disarm'd, they were apprehensive the Indians would bush-
+fight them, so they thought proper to give over the pursuit, and to return
+to the boat.
+
+Thursday the 12th, hard gales at W.N.W., with rain. At six this morning we
+again saw the two Indians, they made the same noise and motions to come
+ashore: At which I went with four of the people; the Indians walk'd and ran
+as before, looking back, and making signs to follow, which we did till we
+got to the place where the canoe lay with the four Indians in her. The two
+Indians got into the canoe, and put her off the shore before we could get
+nigh them: As soon as we got abreast of the canoe, they made signs as if
+they wanted clothing; we endeavour'd to make them understand we wanted
+fish, and would truck with them; they had none, but signified to us they
+would go and get some: They had a mangey dog, which they parted with to one
+of the people for a pair of cloth trowsers; this dog was soon kill'd,
+dress'd, and devour'd. Here we found plenty of muscles, which gave us great
+relief, having scarce any thing to subsist on for this week past.
+
+Friday the 13th, very uncertain weather, and squally, the wind variable
+from W.N.W. to S.S.W. This morning all hands ashore a-fishing. Lieutenant
+E----rs of the marines kill'd a large seal or sea-dog, it is exceeding good
+food, and we judg'd it to have weigh'd seventeen score.
+
+Saturday the 14th, little wind at W.N.W. and close weather, with rain. At
+five this morning cast loose, and steer'd south out between the islands,
+the weather clearing up, we saw the south shore: It first appear'd like a
+large island, stretching away to the westward, and at the west end two
+hammacoes like sugar-loaves, and to the southward of them a large point of
+rocks, steer'd S.E. until the point bore W. then steer'd S.E. by E. I took
+the point for Cape Pillar, and was fully assur'd of our being in the
+Streights.
+
+Sunday the 15th, at three this morning cast loose, and row'd, but could not
+get out, so were oblig'd to put back, and make fast, it blowing hard, with
+thick weather all day, in the evening it clear'd up. This day several
+people drove a trade with their allowance, giving silver buckles for flour,
+valued at twelve shillings per pound, and before night it reach'd to a
+guinea, the people crying aloud for provisions, which are now so scarce,
+that several on board are actually starving thro' want.
+
+Monday the 16th, at three this morning cast loose, being little wind, and
+steer'd up the Streights S.E. by E. the wind at N.W. At eight o'clock got
+a-breast of Cape Munday, at nine the cape bore W. distant four leagues, at
+noon running along shore, made two openings, which put the rest of the
+officers to a stand, not knowing which to take for their right passage.
+Asking my opinion, I gave it for keeping on the E.S.E. passage, the other
+lying S.E. by S. On which they said, Sir John Narborough bids us keep the
+south shore on board. I answer'd, that Sir John tells us E.S.E. is the
+direct course from Cape Pillar: I'll venture my life that we are now in the
+right passage; so we kept on E. by S. half S. After running a league or two
+up, and not seeing Cape Quod, nor any outlet, the wind blowing hard, we
+were for running no farther, whereas one league more would have convinc'd
+every body, but they all gave against me, that we were not in the right
+passage: The wind being at W.N.W. we could not turn back again; so that we
+were oblig'd to put into a cove lying on the north shore, where we found
+good anchoring in four fathom water: No provisions to be got here, being a
+barren rocky place, producing not any thing for the preservation of life.
+This afternoon died George Bateman, a boy, aged sixteen years: This poor
+creature starv'd, perish'd, and died a skeleton, for want of food. There
+are several more in the same miserable condition, and who, without a speedy
+relief, must undergo the same fate.
+
+Tuesday the 17th, at five this morning, weigh'd, and row'd out, it being
+calm; at seven a fresh breeze right up the sound, we could not turn to
+windward not above a mile from where we last lay, we made fast along-side
+the rocks; all hands ashore a-fishing for muscles, limpets, and clams; here
+we found those shell-fish in abundance, which prov'd a very seasonable
+relief. Just before we got in, one of the men gave a guinea for a pound of
+flour, being all the money he had.
+
+Wednesday the 18th, the wind at W.N.W. in hard squalls, with hail and snow.
+This morning cast loose, and stood over to the southward, believing the
+tide to run stronger and more true than on the north-shore, hoping shortly
+to get out of the sound, which is not above a league in the wind's eye. At
+two o'clock got into a cove on the south side, made fast along side of the
+rocks; all hands on shore getting muscles and other fish.
+
+Thursday the 19th, fresh gales W.N.W. with hail and snow. This morning cast
+loose, and sail'd out, but could make no hand of it, our boat will not work
+to windward; put back from whence we came, and sent the people ashore to
+get muscles. This night departed this life Mr Thomas Caple, son of the late
+Lieutenant Caple, aged twelve years, who perish'd for want of food. There
+was a person on board who had some of the youth's money, upwards of twenty
+guineas, with a watch and silver cup. Those last the boy was willing to
+sell for flour; but his guardian told him, he would buy cloaths for him in
+the Brazil. The miserable youth cry'd, Sir, I shall never live to see the
+Brazil, I am starving now, almost starv'd to death, therefore, for God's
+sake, give me my silver cup to get me some victuals or buy some for me
+yourself. All his prayers and intreaties to him were vain, but heaven sent
+death to his relief, and put a period to his miseries in an instant.
+Persons who have not experienc'd the hardships we have met with, will
+wonder how people can be so inhuman to see their fellow-creatures starving
+before their faces, and afford 'em no relief: But hunger is void of all
+compassion; every person was so intent on the preservation of his own life,
+that he was regardless of another's, and the bowels of commiseration were
+shut up. We slip no opportunity, day or night, to enter into the suppos'd
+right Streights, but can get no ground. This day we serv'd flour and a
+piece of beef between two men for a week. Captain P----n, of his majesty's
+land forces, gave two guineas for two pounds of flour; this flour was sold
+him by the seamen, who live on muscles. Many of the people eat their flour
+raw as soon as they are serv'd it. The wind and weather not permitting us
+to go out, the men were employ'd in getting wood and water.
+
+Tuesday the 24th, this morning it being calm, row'd out, at eight o'clock
+had the supposed right Streights open, having a breeze at W.N.W. S.E. by E.
+through the first reach, and S.S.E. through the second, then saw three
+islands, the largest of which lies on the north-shore, and there is a
+passage about two miles broad between that and the islands to the
+southward; there is also another passage between that island and the north-
+shore, of a mile and a half broad. Before you come to those islands there
+is a sound lying on the south-shore: You can see no passage until you come
+close up with the island, and then the imaginary Streights are not above
+two miles broad. Steer'd away for the island S.E. about two leagues, then
+came into a narrow passage, not above a cable's length over, which put us
+all to a stand, doubting of any farther passage. The wind took us a-head,
+and the tide being spent we put into a small cove, and made fast. At seven
+in the evening, being calm, cast loose, being willing to see if there was
+any opening, but to our great misfortune, found none, which very much
+surpriz'd us. The lieutenant is of opinion, that we are in a lagoon to the
+northward of the Streights. This I cannot believe, and am positive, if ever
+there was such a place in the world as the Streights of Magellan, we are
+now in them, and above thirty leagues up. If he or any of the officers had
+given themselves the trouble of coming upon deck, to have made proper
+remarks, we had been free from all this perplexity, and by this time out of
+the Streights to the northward. There is not an officer aboard, except the
+carpenter and myself, will keep the deck a moment longer than his watch, or
+has any regard to a reckoning, or any thing else. It is agreed to go back
+again.
+
+Wednesday the 25th, little wind with rain. At eight this morning row'd out,
+and got about a league down; here we could get no ground, and were obliged
+to put back again.
+
+Thursday the 26th, little wind; row'd out, got about five leagues down.
+This day we were in such want of provisions, that we were forced to cut up
+the seal skin and broil it, notwithstanding it has lain about the deck for
+this fortnight.
+
+Friday the 27th, little wind and close weather. This morning cast loose and
+row'd down, had a fresh breeze at north, steer'd W.S.W. into another
+opening on the south-shore, hoping to find a passage out of the lagoon, as
+the lieutenant calls it, into the right Streights. After going two leagues
+up saw there was no opening, put back and made fast where we came from,
+being determined to go back and make Cape Pillar a second time, which is
+the south entrance of the Streights. Got abundance of large muscles, five
+or six inches long, a very great relief to us at present.
+
+Sunday the 29th, hard gales from N.W. to S.W. with heavy rains. Great
+uneasiness among the people, many of them despairing of a deliverance, and
+crying aloud to serve provisions four days before the time. Finding no way
+to pacify them, we were obliged to serve them. We endeavoured to encourage
+and comfort them as much as lay in our power, and at length they seemed
+tolerably easy.
+
+Monday the 30th, fresh gales at W. with continual rain. This day died three
+of our people, viz. Peter Delroy, barber, Thomas Thorpe and Thomas
+Woodhead, marines, they all perish'd for want of food: Several more are in
+the same way, being not able to go ashore for provisions, and those who are
+well cannot get sufficient for themselves, therefore the sick are left
+destitute of all relief. There is one thing to be taken notice of in the
+death of those people, that some hours before they die they are taken
+lightheaded, and fall a joking and laughing, and in this humour they
+expire.
+
+Tuesday, December the 1st, 1741, little wind, and fair weather, which is a
+kind of prodigy in those parts. In the morning put out of the cove, and got
+four leagues down; then the wind took us a-head, and we put into another
+cove where we got muscles and limpets. At four this afternoon saw an Indian
+canoe coming over from the north-shore; they landed two of their men to the
+leeward of the cove, they came opposite to us, and viewed us, then went
+back, and came with the canoe within a cable's length of our boat, but no
+nearer, so that we had no opportunity to truck with them.
+
+Wednesday the 2d, little wind, with rain. At nine this morning row'd out
+and got about a league farther down; the wind beginning to blow fresh, we
+put into another cove, and found plenty of shell-fish, which kept up our
+spirits greatly, for it is enough to deject any thinking man, to see that
+the boat will not turn to windward, being of such length, and swimming so
+buoyant upon the water, that the wind, when close haul'd, throws her to
+leeward: We have been seventeen days going seven or eight leagues to
+windward, which must make our passage very long and uncomfortable.
+
+Friday the 4th, little wind at S. and fair. This morning rowed out, at ten
+got down, where we saw a smoke, but no people; we saw a dog running along
+shore, and keeping company with the boat for above a mile; we then put in,
+with a design, to shoot him, but he soon disappointed us, by taking into
+the woods. We put off again with a fine breeze, steering N.W. by W. down
+the Streights. The carpenter gave a guinea this day for a pound of flour,
+which he made into cakes, and eat instantly. At six in the evening abreast
+of Cape Munday; at eight abreast of Cape Upright, being fair weather.
+Intend to keep under sail all night.
+
+Saturday the 5th, little wind and fair: At four this morning I saw Cape
+Pillar, bearing W. by N. distant eight leagues; saw a smoke on the south
+shore, and at noon we saw a smoke on the north shore, but we did not care
+to lose time: At three o'clock saw Cape Desseada, bearing from Cape Pillar
+S.W. distant four leagues, at four o'clock wore the boat, and steered
+E.S.E. The lieutenant was now fully convinced we have been all along in the
+right Streights, and had we run but one league further, on Monday, Nov. 17,
+we had escaped all this trouble and anxiety: As for my own part, I was very
+well assured, from the first entrance, that we were right, but the
+lieutenant would not believe that it was Cape Pillar on the S. shore coming
+into the Streights, but thought we were in a lagoon to the northward; so
+that we have been above a fortnight coming back to rectify mistakes, and to
+look at Cape Pillar a second time: At eight o'clock came abreast of the
+smoke seen in the morning. The people being well assured that we are
+actually in the Streights of Magellan, are all alive. Wind at W.S.W.
+
+Sunday, little wind at W. with rain; at three this morning abreast of Cape
+Munday; at six abreast of Cape de Quod, opposite to which, on the south
+shore, saw a smoke, on which we went ashore to the Indians, who came out on
+a point of land, at the entrance of a cove, hollowing and crying, _Bona!
+Bona!_ endeavouring to make us understand they were our friends; when
+ashore, we traded with them for two dogs, three brant geese, and some seal,
+which supply was very acceptable to us; we supped on the dogs, and thought
+them equal in goodness to the best mutton in England. We took from the
+Indians a canoe, made of the bark of trees, but soon towed her under water,
+and were obliged to cut her loose; steered N.E. by E. At eight o'clock
+abreast of St Jerom's Sound; at twelve abreast of Royal Island.
+
+The Indians we saw in the Streights of Magellan are people of a middle
+stature, and well shaped, their complexion of a tawny olive colour, their
+hair exceeding black, but not very long, they have round faces and small
+noses, their eyes little and black, their teeth are smooth and even, and
+close set, of an incomparable whiteness, they are very active in body, and
+run with a surprising agility, they wear on their heads white feathered
+caps, their bodies are covered with the skins of seals and guinacoes. The
+women, as soon as they saw us, fled into the woods, so that we can give no
+description of them.
+
+Monday the 7th, fresh gales at W.N.W. and fine weather; at six this morning
+abreast of Cape Forward, steered N. by E. At nine abreast of Port Famine,
+at twelve at noon put in at Freshwater bay, and filled one cask of water,
+having none aboard; at one o'clock put out again, steered N. by E.
+expecting plenty of wood and water at Elizabeth's Island; at nine at night
+passed by Sandy Point, it bore S.S.E. and the island St George E.N.E.
+distant three leagues.
+
+Tuesday the 8th, at four this morning, being calm, weighed, and rowed
+towards Elizabeth's Island, it bearing W.N.W. At four in the afternoon
+anchored off the northmost in eight fathom water, fine sand, about half a
+cable's length from the shore put the vessel in, and landed some people to
+see for wood and water. In the evening the people came aboard, having been
+all over the island in search of wood and water, but found none; here
+indeed we found shaggs and sea-gulls in great numbers, it being breeding
+time, we got a vast quantity of their eggs, most of them having young ones
+in the shell: However, we beat them up all together, with a little flour,
+and made a very rich pudding. Elizabeth's Island is a beautiful spot of
+ground to appearance, with very good pasture, but it is entirely barren of
+any thing for the support of man. This day John Turner, marine, perished
+for want of food.
+
+Wednesday the 9th, at four this morning weighed, and steered E.N.E. for the
+Narrows, with the wind at S.S.W., when abreast ef the Sweepstakes Foreland,
+steered S.S.E. on purpose to look for water; after going along shore about
+six leagues into a deep bay, we saw a fine delightful country: Here we saw
+the guianacoes in great numbers, ten or twelve in a drove; they are to be
+seen in such droves all along the shore for several leagues.
+
+The guianacoe is as large as any English deer, with a long neck, his head,
+mouth, and ears resembling a sheep; he has very long slender legs, and is
+cloven-footed like a deer, with a short bushy tail of a reddish colour; his
+back is covered with red wool, pretty long; but down his sides, and all the
+belly part, is white wool: Those guianacoes, though at a distance very much
+resembling the female deer, are probably the sheep of this country; they
+are exceeding nimble, of an exquisite quick sight, very shy, and difficult
+to be shot: At noon, finding neither wood nor water, wore to the northward,
+at three got abreast of the Foreland, hauled in for Fish Cove, which lieth
+just round the eastern point; here we expected to land and shoot some of
+the guianacoes, but when abreast of the Cove, the wind blew so hard right
+out, that we were obliged to bear away for the first Narrow, it being
+impossible to get in. At eight this evening entered the first Narrow,
+meeting the flood, which runs here very strong; at twelve came to an anchor
+in five fathom, about a mile off shore. The tide floweth on the western
+shore seven hours, and ebbs five. This day Robert Vicars, marine, perished
+with want.
+
+Thursday the 10th, at four this morning weighed, and came to sail; at six
+got out of the first Narrow, hauled in for a deep bay on the north shore to
+seek for water: The boatswain swam ashore, and in half an hour afterwards
+came down on the beach, and brought us the news of finding fresh water. It
+being rocky ground and ebbing water, the vessel struck; we were obliged in
+this exigence to slip the cable, time not permitting us to haul up the
+anchor, we stood off, and on the shore till half flood, then went in and
+took the cable on board: After landing some people with casks to fill,
+hauled the anchor up, and went about two miles farther out.
+
+Friday the 11th, at three this morning the boat struck upon the tide of
+ebb, it ebbing so fast we could not get her off, in a quarter of an hour's
+time the boat was dry; we were favoured with little wind and smooth water,
+otherwise she must have stove to pieces, the ground being very foul; it
+ebbs dry above a league off, and there is shoal water a great deal further
+out, so that it is dangerous for a ship to haul into this bay. While the
+boat was dry got all the water casks out of the hold, and put them ashore
+to be filled. At six hauled the boat off, having received no damage; at
+eight, it being four feet flood, run the boat close in shore and took off
+our water, the whole quantity being four tons, out of which we were obliged
+to leave two puncheons, one quarter-cask, with three muskets, a funnel, and
+some other necessaries, and were very much concerned lest we should also
+leave some of the people ashore. The wind blowing hard, and the sea
+tumbling in, we were under a necessity of hauling off and putting to sea,
+for fear of losing the boat. Since we left the island where the Wager was
+lost, we have several times very narrowly escaped being made a wreck, and
+sometimes have been preserved when we have seen our fate before our eyes,
+and every moment expected it, and when all the conduct and ability of men
+could have availed nothing. Any one who has been a witness of those
+providential deliverances, and doubts the being of a Supreme Power,
+disqualifies himself from any title to all future mercy, and justly
+deserves the wrath of an incensed Deity. This day, at noon, being well out
+of the bay, and nigh mid-channel over, steered E.N.E. for Cape Virgin Mary,
+with a fine gale at S.W. At one we saw the cape bearing N.E, by E. distant
+nine leagues; at seven in the evening saw a low point of flat land,
+stretching away from the cape S.S.E. two leagues; at eight little or no
+wind, steered E. by S. at twelve at night doubled the point, the wind at W.
+right in the middle of the bay, where we filled the water; in land lie two
+peaks, exactly like ass's ears. We would advise all vessels from hauling
+into this bay, it being shoal water and foul ground. As for every other
+part of the Straights of Magellan, from Cape Victory to Cape Virgin Mary,
+we recommend Sir John Narborough, who in his account is so just and exact,
+that we think it is impossible for any man living to mend his works. We
+have been a month in those Streights, from our first sight of Cape Pillar
+to Cape Virgin Mary. The whole length of the Streights, the reaches and
+turnings included, is reckoned one hundred and sixteen leagues.
+
+Saturday the 12th, little wind, and fair weather. At one this morning
+steered N. by W. At four the wind came to N.W. Tacked and stood to the
+westward; the two points stretching off from the cape bore N.W. by W.
+distant two leagues. At noon, the wind being at N.E. steering along shore
+from the cape, saw on the shore three men, on mules or horses, riding
+towards us; when they came abreast of us, they stopped and made signals,
+waving their hats, as though they wanted to speak with us; at which we
+edged close to the shore, where we saw to the number of twenty; five of
+them rode abreast, the others were on foot, having a large store of cattle
+with them. On sight of this, we anchored within a mile of the shore. The
+cape bore W.S.W. distant seven leagues, the swell tumbling in from the sea,
+would not permit us to speak with'em, by their motions, actions, cloathing,
+and by their whole behaviour, we took them for Christians: It being a plain
+level land, they rode backwards and forwards like racers, waving white
+handkerchiefs, and making signs for us going into a bay, which lay about a
+league to the northward, which we designed to do on the tide of ebb. The
+flood being very strong against us, they waited on the shore till the tide
+was spent; we weighed and stood to northward, the wind blowing right in
+from sea, and a great swell, we could not clear the land, so that we wore
+and stood to the southward, and very narrowly escaped clearing the breakers
+off the pitch of the cape, which lay about two leagues out at sea to the
+southward. At nine at night the cape bore W. distant six leagues; stood out
+to sea till eleven o'clock, then wore and stood in, the wind shifting to
+N.N.E. The next morning we steered in for the bay, and saw those people
+again; but the wind soon afterwards veering to the westward, and blowing
+strong, we were obliged to bear away: We could not by any means come to the
+knowledge of these people; whether they are unfortunate creatures that have
+been cast away, or whether they are inhabitants about the river Gallegoes,
+we can't tell.
+
+Tuesday the 15th, fresh gales and fair weather. This morning saw the land;
+the southmost point bore W.S.W., the northmost point N.N.E. At eight saw
+two ledges of rocks, running two leagues out from a point of land which
+makes like an old castle. At noon the extremes of the land bore W. by N.
+distant three leagues, had a good observation, latitude 49: 10 S. Course
+made this twenty-four hours is N. by E. half E. distant 104 miles,
+longitude in 74: 05 W.
+
+Wednesday, the 16th, at noon abreast of Penguin island, not above half a
+mile from shore. We saw on this island seals and penguins without number,
+the shore being entirely covered with them. We find the penguin exactly to
+answer Sir John Narborough's description; therefore we beg leave to give it
+the reader in that excellent navigator's own words: "The penguin is a fowl
+that lives by catching and eating fish, which he dives for, and is very
+nimble in the water; he is as big as a brant goose, and weighs near about
+eight pounds; they have no wings, but flat stumps like fins; their coat is
+a downy stumped feather; they are blackish grey on the backs and heads, and
+white about their necks and down their bellies; they are short-legged like
+a goose, and stand upright like little children in white aprons, in
+companies together; they are full-necked, and headed and beaked like a
+crow, only the point of their bill turns down a little; they will bite
+hard, but they are very tame, and will drive in herds to your boat-side
+like sheep, and there you may knock'em on the head, all one after another;
+they will not make any great haste away." We steered N.W. by N. for the
+harbour of Port Desire: The going into this harbour is very remarkable; on
+the south side lies, one mile in the land, an high peaked-tip rock, much
+like a tower, looking as though it was a work of art set up for a land-mark
+to steer into this harbour; this rock is forty feet high. At five o'clock
+got into the harbour, run up to Seal Island, which lieth about a league up;
+here we killed more seal in half an hour than we could carry off, being
+obliged to leave the greatest part of what we killed behind. The people
+eating greedily of the seal, were seized with violent fevers and pains in
+their heads. While we were at Port Desire we had seal and fowl in
+abundance. The carpenter found here a parcel of bricks, some of'em with
+letters cut in them, on one of those bricks these words were very plain and
+legible, viz. _Capt. Straiton, 16 Cannons, 1687_. Those we imagine have
+been laid here from a wreck. The carpenter with six men went in search of
+water, a mile up the water's side; they found Peckett's well, mention'd in
+Sir John Narborough's book; the spring is so small, that it doth not give
+above thirty gallons per day, but the well being full, supplied us. The
+people grow very turbulent and uneasy, requiring flour to be served out;
+which, in our present circumstance, is a most unreasonable request; we have
+but one cask of flour on board, and a great distance to run into the
+Brazil, and no other provision in the boat but the seal we have killed
+here: Nay, they carry their demands much higher, insisting that the marine
+officers, and such people as cannot be assisting in working the boat, shall
+have but half the allowance of the rest; accordingly they have pitched upon
+twenty to be served half a pound of flour each man, and themselves a pound.
+This distinction the half-pounders complain of, and that twenty are
+selected to be starved. While we were at Port Desire, one day dressing our
+victuals, we set fire to the grass; instantly the flames spread, and
+immediately we saw the whole country in a conflagration, and the next day,
+from the watering-place, we saw the smoke at a distance, so that then the
+fire was not extinguished.
+
+Friday the 25th, little wind, and fair weather; went up to our slaughter-
+house in Seal island, and took on board our sea-store, which we completed
+in half an hour's time; turned down the harbour with the tide of ebb, in
+the evening, the wind at N.E. could make no hand of it, so bore away for
+the harbour again, and came to an anchor.
+
+Saturday the 26th, at three in the morning, sailed out of Port Desire
+harbour; steered out E.N.E. At six Penguin island bore S. by E. distant six
+leagues, and Cape Blanco N.W. by N. four leagues. This day I took my
+departure from Cape Blanco; I judge the cape to lie in the longitude of 71:
+00 W. from the meridian of London.
+
+Monday the 28th, moderate gales, and fair. This day served out all the
+flour in the boat, at three pound and a half to each man. We have now
+nothing to live on but seal, and what Providence throws in our way.
+
+Friday, January the 1st, 1741-2, fresh gales and fair weather, with a great
+sea. At ten last night shifting the man at the helm, brought her by the
+lee, broke the boom; and lost a seaman overboard. The greatest part of our
+seal taken in at Port Desire, for want of salt to cure it there, now stinks
+very much; but having nothing else we are obliged to eat it. We are now
+miserable beyond description, having nothing to feed on ourselves, and at
+the same time almost eaten up with vermin.
+
+Wednesday the 6th, departed this life Mr Thomas Harvey, the purser; he died
+a skeleton for want of food: This gentleman probably was the first purser
+belonging to his majesty's service that ever perished with hunger. We see
+daily a great number of whales.
+
+Sunday the 10th, this day at noon, in working the bearings, and distant to
+Cape St Andrew, do find myself not above thirteen leagues distant from the
+land, therefore hauled in N.W. to make it before night. We saw to-day
+abundance of insects, particularly butterflies and horse-stingers. We have
+nothing to eat but some stinking seal, and not above twenty out of the
+forty-three which are now alive have even that, and such hath been our
+condition for this week past; nor are we better off in regard to water,
+there not being above eighty gallons on board: Never were beheld a parcel
+of more miserable objects, there are not above fifteen of us healthy, (if
+people may be called healthy that are scarce able to crawl). I am reckoned
+at present one of the strongest men in the boat, yet can hardly stand on my
+legs ten minutes together, nor even that short space of time without
+holding: Every man of us hath had a new coat of skin from head to foot: We
+that are in the best state of health do all we can to encourage the rest.
+At four this afternoon, we were almost transported with joy at the sight of
+land, (having seen no land for fourteen days before) the extremes of which
+bore N.W. about seven leagues; we ran in with it, and at eight anchored in
+eight fathom; fine sand about a league from the shore; the northmost point
+bore about N.E., the southmost point about S.W. by S. This day perished for
+want of food, serjeant Ringall.
+
+Monday the 11th, at four this morning weighed, and came to sail, steering
+along shore N.E. by E. This is a pleasant and delightful country to sail
+by: We kept within a mile of the shore; we saw horses and large dogs in
+great numbers, the shore being perfectly covered with them. At noon I had a
+good observation in the latitude of 38: 40 S. At the same time a-head land,
+which I took for Cape St Andrew's; it is a long sandy point, very low,
+where a shoal runs off S.E. about three leagues. Sounded, and had but two
+fathom and half at high-water. When we got clear of this, we steered N.E.
+into a sandy bay, and anchored there in three fathom and half, fine sand;
+the north point bore N.N.W., the south point S.E. by E. Here is a great
+swell, and shoal water. This bay we call Shoalwater Bay.
+
+Tuesday the 12th, lying in Shoalwater Bay, the wind at S.E. and fair
+weather. Having nothing on board the vessel to eat, and but one cask of
+water to drink, we put her in as nigh as we could venture; so that any
+person who had the least skill in swimming, might get ashore: Here runs a
+pretty large surf, which may endanger our vessel; this puts us to a stand:
+To go from hence without meat or drink is certain death. A few of the
+healthiest were resolved to swim on shore, to get water and provisions; the
+officers, viz. the boatswain, carpenter, and Lieutenant E----rs, to animate
+the rest, first leaped into the water; eleven of the people followed them;
+in this attempt one of the marines was unfortunately drowned: We tossed
+overboard four quarter-casks to fill with water; lashing to the cask two
+fire-locks on each side, with ammunition for shooting. When the officers
+and people got on shore, they saw thousands of horses and dogs; the dogs
+are of a mongril breed, and very large. They also saw abundance of parrots
+and seals on the rocks, but not a bush growing on the place; they made a
+fire with horse dung, and shot a great many seal, which they cut up in
+quarters to bring aboard. One of the water-casks being leaky, they cut it
+up, and converted it into fuel to dress the seal. They caught four
+armadilloes, they are much larger than our hedge-hogs, and very like them;
+their bodies are cased all over with shells, shutting under one another
+like shells of armour. In this country thirteen of his majesty's British
+subjects put to flight a thousand Spanish horse. Horses are more numerous
+here, than sheep are on the plains in Dorset and Wiltshire. We on board see
+abundance of seal lying on the shore cut in pieces, but the wind blows so
+hard we can by no means get at it. We think ourselves now worse off than
+ever, for we are actually starving in the sight of plenty. We have but two
+people on board that can swim; to give them all the assistance we can, the
+lieutenant and myself, with the rest of the people, proposed to haul the
+vessel nearer in, and make a raft for one of the two to swim ashore on, and
+to carry a line to haul some of the seal aboard: With much entreaty these
+two swimmers were prevailed on to cast lots; the lot falling on the weakest
+of 'em, who was a young lad about fifteen years of age, and scarce able to
+stand, we would not suffer him to go. While our brethren were regaling in
+the fulness of plenty ashore, we aboard were obliged to strip the hatches
+of a seal-skin, which has been for some time nailed on, and made use of for
+a tarpawlin; we burnt the hair off the skin, and for want of any thing else
+fell to chewing the seal-skin.
+
+Wednesday the 13th, fine weather and calm. At six this morning the
+boatswain shot a horse, and the people a wild dog. The horse was branded on
+the left buttock with these letters A.R. By this we conjecture there are
+inhabitants not far off. At nine veered the boat in, lashed the oars to the
+hatches, and made a stage to haul up the seal. The people swam off three
+casks of water, sent on shore one quarter-cask more, and two breakers. Came
+aboard the boatswain, carpenter, and Lieutenant E----rs, and four men more
+are getting the seal and the horse on board, which was no sooner in the
+vessel than a sea-breeze came in, and blowed so hard, that we were obliged
+to weigh, leaving ashore one quarter-cask, two breakers, and eight of the
+people. The wind at E.S.E. and a tumbling sea, came to an anchor about a
+league off the shore; we shared all the provisions among the company; we
+still see the people ashore, but can't get them off.
+
+Thursday the 14th, hard gales at E.S.E. and fair weather. Last night the
+sea was so great, that it broke the rudder-head off; we were doubtful every
+moment of the vessel's parting, which if she had, we must have been all of
+us inevitably lost. We were obliged to put to sea, not being able to get
+the people off. We sent ashore in a scuttled puncheon some wearing apparel,
+four muskets, with balls, powder, flints, candles, and several necessaries,
+and also a letter to acquaint them of the danger we were in, and of the
+impossibility of our riding it out till they could get off.
+
+In Freshwater Bay, dated on board the Speedwell schooner, on the coast of
+South America, in the latitude of 37: 25 S. longitude from the meridian of
+London, 65: 00 W. this 14th day of January, 1741-2.
+
+
+"These are to certify the right honourable the lords commissioners for
+executing the office of lord high admiral of Great Britain, &tc. That we,
+whose names are undermentioned, having nothing left on board the vessel but
+one quarter-cask of water, were obliged to put into the first place we
+could for subsistence, which, was in Freshwater-Bay; where we came to an
+anchor, as near the shore as we could, without endangering the vessel,
+having no boat aboard, and a large surf on the shore, therefore Mr King the
+boatswain, Mr Cummins the carpenter, and Lieutenant Ewers, with eleven of
+the people, jumped overboard, in order to swim ashore, with three casks of
+water, in which attempt James Greenham was drowned in the surf off the
+shore: The sea-breeze coming on, prevented the people getting on board the
+same night; therefore, on Wednesday morning, it being then calm, they
+brought to the beach the casks filled with water, with seal and other
+provisions in great quantities, which we hauled on board. The boatswain,
+carpenter, Lieutenant Ewers, and three of the people, swam off, but the
+sea-breeze coming in, and the surf rising, the rest were discouraged from
+coming off; we hauled a good birth off the shore, where we lay the
+remainder of the day, and all the night. The greatness of the sea broke off
+our rudder-head, and we expected every minute the vessel would founder at
+her anchor. Thursday morning we saw no probability of the people coming
+aboard, and the wind coming out of the sea, and not one stick of fire-wood
+in the vessel to dress our victuals, and it being every man's opinion that
+we must put to sea or perish, we got up a scuttled cask, and put into it
+all manner of necessaries, with four small arms lashed to the cask, and a
+letter to acquaint them of our danger, which cask we saw them receive, as
+also the letter that was in it; they then fell on their knees, and made
+signals wishing us well, at which we got under sail, and left our brethren,
+whose names are under-mentioned,
+
+Sign'd by
+Robert Beans, lieutenant
+John King, boatswain
+John Bulkeley, gunner
+Thomas Clark, master
+John Cummins, carpenter
+Robert Elliot, surgeon's mate
+John Jones, master's mate
+John Snow, ditto.
+
+
+The names of the people left on shore in the latitude of 35' 25 S.
+longitude 65: 00 W.
+
+
+    Names.        Where born.
+
+Guy Broadwater,   Blackwall.
+John Duck,        London.
+Samuel Cooper,    Ipswich.
+Benjamin Smith,   Southwark.
+Joseph Clinch,    Ditto.
+John Allen,       Gosport.
+John Andrews,     Manchester.
+Isaac Morris,     Topsham."
+
+
+Those people had a good prospect of getting provisions, and we believe
+inhabitants are not far off; they have all necessaries for shooting; we
+hope to see them again, but at present we leave them to the care of
+Providence and the wide world. At noon sailed hence, at four in the
+afternoon could not clear the land, and were obliged to anchor in five
+fathom, two leagues from the shore, the northmost point of land bore N.E.
+by N. and the southmost point S. by W. Hard gales at E.N.E. and a great
+sea. At noon in latitude 38: 00.
+
+Friday the 15th, fresh gales at N.N.W. and a great sea tumbling into the
+bay. We are not able to ride it out, therefore, at four in the afternoon,
+got under sail, and stood off to sea; the southmost land bore S.W. by S.
+distant five leagues.
+
+Monday the 18th, in the latitude of 36: 29 S. the north point of
+Freshwater-Bay bearing S.W. distant forty-four leagues, we went to an
+allowance of water, at a pint a man per day, having on board not above
+twenty gallons for thirty-three souls.
+
+Tuesday the 19th, little wind at S. and clear weather. At four this morning
+saw breakers right a-head; sounded, and found five fathom; saw the land
+making like an island, bearing N.E. by E. distant twelve leagues; steered
+N. for about a mile or two, shoaled the water from two fathom to nine feet,
+then steer'd N.N.E. and deepen'd the water to five fathom. By the
+appearance of the land, we are well up the river of Plate, and do take the
+breakers for the English bank. Steer'd and sail'd all day E.N.E. along
+shore, in the evening anchor'd in a fine sandy bay; saw two men coming down
+on horseback, the boatswain swam ashore, and got up behind one of them, and
+rode away to their caravans. When we made the land, we had not one drop of
+water on board: Several people swam ashore to fill water, one of 'em, when
+ashore, drank very plentifully of water; in attempting to come off, was so
+weak, that he could not reach the vessel, but was unfortunately drown'd.
+Got one cask of water aboard, which reviv'd us exceedingly.
+
+Wednesday the 20th, Mr Cummins and myself went ashore, four of the
+inhabitants came down to us on horseback. As I could talk Portugueze, I
+fell into discourse with them. They told me the English were still at war
+with the Spaniards, that they had two fifty-gun ships up the river of
+Plate, and one sixty gun ship cruizing off Cape St Mary's; and not above
+six weeks ago a seventy gun ship lying at anchor, parted from her anchors
+and drove on shore; that the ship was lost, and every man perish'd. They
+also told me they were Spaniards, Castilians, and fishermen, that they came
+here a fishing, the fish they took they salted and dried, then sold them at
+Buenos Aires. The town they belong'd to they called Mount de Vidia, two
+days journey from hence. I ask'd 'em how they came to live in the king of
+Portugal's land. They said there were a great many Spanish settlements on
+this side, and gave us an invitation to their caravan; we got up behind
+them, and rode about a mile to it, where they entertained us with good junk
+beef, roasted and boyl'd, with good white bread. We sought to buy some
+provisions of 'em, but they had none but twenty-six loaves, about as big as
+two-penny loaves in England, which they would not part with under four
+guineas. We being in a weak condition, scarce able to stand on our legs,
+and without bread for a long time, gave them their price. Their patron told
+us at the same time, if it should be known that they had supplied us, they
+should be all hang'd. He promis'd, if we would give him a fire-lock, he
+would get us some wild fowl, and as many ducks in an hour or two as would
+serve all the people on board. Mr Cummins sent for his fire-lock, and gave
+it him, with some powder and sluggs. On our coming away, finding one of
+their company missing with a horse, we were apprehensive of his being gone
+to betray us; therefore immediately went on board, got our water in, and
+made all ready for sailing to Rio Grand.
+
+Thursday the 21st, little wind at N.W. and fair weather. At four this
+morning got under sail, steered E.N.E. At twelve saw low land stretch off
+to the eastward, which bore E. by S. At four the tide of flood flowing
+strong in obliged us to come to an anchor in a large bay, in eight fathom
+water; the south point bore S.S.W. the east point E.S.E.; at eight at night
+got under sail, steering E.S.E.
+
+Friday the 22d, little wind at N. and fair weather. At eight this morning
+saw Cape St Mary's, bearing N.W. distant ten leagues; at noon it bore
+W.S.W. and the north land S.E. by E.
+
+Sunday 23d, little wind, and calm. In the morning, not seeing the land,
+steer'd in N.; at noon saw Cape St Mary's, bearing N.W. distant ten
+leagues; latitude per observation 34: 53 S. At seven in the evening, being
+in shore and calm, anchored in fourteen fathom water, sandy ground, the
+cape bearing W. by N. and the northmost land N. by E. This day departed
+this life Mr Thomas Clark the master, as did also his son the day
+following.
+
+Sunday the 24th, the wind at S. and hazy weather. At two in the morning
+weighed and came to sail, steering N.E. within a league of the shore. At
+three in the afternoon saw three islands, the northmost of which is the
+most remarkable one I ever beheld, appearing like a church with a lofty
+tower; at four we saw three islands more, steer'd N. quarter W. between
+those islands, until we saw the main land. The most remarkable of these
+islands is about four miles from the main; they are all steep. At eight
+anchored in fourteen fathom, fine sand.
+
+Monday the 25th, a fresh gale at E.N.E. and cloudy weather. At nine this
+morning got under sail, in order to go back to those islands to get some
+seal, there being great numbers on the rocks, and we in great want of
+provision, with the wind against us. We took the opportunity of the wind
+back to the islands, but were disappointed; being not able to get ashore
+for provisions, came to an anchor in fourteen fathom, sandy ground. Hard
+gales at N.N.E. with thunder, lightning and rain, all night.
+
+Tuesday the 26th, this morning moderate gales at N.W. and fair weather, got
+under sail; after clear of the islands, steer'd N.E. by N. keeping along
+shore: It is a fine level land, and regular soundings fifteen fathom, five
+leagues off the land. We have no seal, nor any other kind of food on board.
+We have a fair wind, and not far from our desired port; so that we are in
+pretty good spirits. This day died the oldest man belonging to us, Thomas
+Maclean, cook, aged 82 years.
+
+Wednesday the 27th, moderate gales at W. steered N. and sail'd all day
+within a cable's length of the shore in three fathom water. We have now
+nothing but a little water to support nature. At noon had an observation,
+latitude in 32: 40 south: I reckon myself 18 leagues from the Rio Grand,
+and hope to see it in the morning.
+
+Thursday the 28th, kept the shore close aboard, and sounded every half
+hour, not caring to go within three fathom, nor keep without five, sailing
+along by the lead all night. At six in the morning saw the opening of the
+river Grand; kept within the breakers of the bar, having at some times not
+above seven feet water at half flood; steer'd N.E. by E. until the river's
+mouth was fairly open; then steer'd N. and N.N.W. until abreast of the
+town; anchored on the east shore in two fathom water. There presently came
+a boat from the shore, with a serjeant of the army, and one soldier. The
+lieutenant, myself, and Mr Cummins, with Captain P----n of the land forces,
+went on shore with them. The commandant, the officers, and people of the
+place, receiv'd us in a most tender and friendly manner. They instantly
+sent on board to the people four quarters of beef, and two bags of Farine
+bread. We were conducted to the surgeon's house, the handsomest habitation
+in the place, where we were most hospitably entertain'd. At four in the
+afternoon the governor came to town; After a strict enquiry into our
+misfortunes, and the reasons of our coming into this port, being somewhat
+doubtful that we might be inspectors of their coast, he began to examine
+me, the lieutenant having reported me to him as pilot. He ask'd me if there
+was a chart of the coast on board; and, if not, how it was possible we
+could hit the bar, and venture into so hazardous a place as this is? I told
+him, as for a chart, we had none of any kind, but I had a good observation
+the day before, that our vessel drew but a small draught of water, that we
+kept a lead always going, and in the necessity we were in, we were oblig'd,
+at all events, to venture, and if we had not seen the opening of the river
+before night, we must have been compell'd to run the vessel ashore. He
+examin'd me also concerning the places we stopt at, from Cape Virgin Mary
+to this port, and more particularly relating to the river Plate. He was
+very nice in his enquiry of our putting in at Cape St Mary's, and of the
+bearings and distance along shore from thence to this port. When he
+thoroughly satisfy'd himself, he embraced us and blest himself to think of
+our deliverance, which he term'd a miracle. He offer'd every thing the
+country could afford to our relief; the sick were order'd to be taken care
+of in the hospital: He took the lieutenant and the land officers home with
+him, and desired the commandant to see that the rest of the officers and
+people wanted for nothing. Before he went he inform'd us, that his
+majesty's ships the Severn and Pearl were at Rio Janeiro, in great
+distress; that they had sent to England for men, and could not sail from
+thence until the arrival of the Flota, which would be in May or June. He
+also told us, that we should be dispatch'd in the first vessel which
+arriv'd in this port, for he did not think we could with safety go any
+farther in our own, and that there could not be found twelve seamen in the
+Brazils that would venture over the bar in her to sail to Rio Janeiro;
+therefore he order'd our little Speedwell ashore: This wonder the people
+are continually flocking to see; and it is now about nine months since we
+were cast away in the Wager; in which time, I believe, no mortals have
+experienc'd more difficulties and miseries than we have. This day may be
+justly stiled the day of our deliverance, and ought to be remember'd
+accordingly.
+
+Sunday the 31st, little or nothing remarkable since the day we came in,
+only a wonderful change in our diet, live on the best the country can
+produce, and have plenty of every thing. This afternoon the governor,
+commandant, and commissary, came on board, to see our little Speedwell;
+they were surpriz'd that thirty souls, the number of people now living,
+could be stowed in so small a vessel; but that she could contain the number
+which first embark'd with us was to them amazing, and beyond all belief:
+They could not conceive how the man at the helm could steer without falling
+overboard, there not being above four inches rise from the deck. I told
+them he sat down, and clapp'd his feet against the rise, and show'd them in
+what manner we secured ourselves. The governor, after viewing the vessel
+over, told us, we were more welcome to him in the miserable condition we
+arriv'd than if we had brought all the wealth in the world with us. At the
+same time he fully assur'd us, we should be supply'd with every thing that
+the country could afford; that he would dispatch us the first opportunity
+to Rio Janeiro, and whenever we stood in need of any thing, he order'd us
+to acquaint the commandant, and our wants should be instantly supply'd. He
+then took leave of us, and wished us well. All the deference and dutiful
+respect we could shew him, to express a grateful sense of his favour, was
+by manning the vessel, and giving him three cheers. The next day arriv'd at
+this place the brigadier-governor of the island St Catharine; he came close
+by our vessel, we mann'd her, and gave him three cheers. The soldiers of
+the garrison, having twenty months arrears due to them, expected the
+brigadier was coming to pay them, but when they found themselves
+disappointed, they made a great disturbance among themselves. I apply'd to
+the commandant for a house, the vessel, in rainy weather, not being fit to
+live in; he order'd me one joining to his own, and gave me the key. I took
+with me Mr Cummins, Mr Jones, Mr Snow, Mr Oakley, and the cooper; we
+brought our trifling necessaries on shore, and remov'd to our new
+habitation: Here we were dry and warm, and though we had no bedding, we
+lodg'd very comfortably. Since the loss of the Wager, we have been used to
+lie hard; at present we think ourselves very happily fix'd, and heartily
+wish that all the persons who surviv'd the loss of the ship were in so good
+a situation as ourselves.
+
+Tuesday, February the 2d, 1741-2, great murmurings among the soldiers; they
+detain'd the brigadier from going back, as he intended, this morning, till
+he promis'd to dispatch the money, cloaths, and provisions, and to see
+their grievances adjusted. On those terms they have agreed he shall go; and
+this evening he return'd for St Catharine's. We apprehended, till now, that
+the right officers were in place; but we find ourselves mistaken. Some time
+before we arrived here, there was an insurrection among the soldiers: Their
+design was against the governor; but by his address, and fair promises of
+seeing them righted, he diverted the storm from himself, and got himself
+continued in his station, as were also the major and commissary. The
+soldiers dismiss'd the rest of the officers, and supply'd their places with
+their own people; though they were lately private men, they appear'd very
+grand, and were not distinguish'd in dress from proper officers. The
+disturbance at Rio Grand is of no service to us, for we feel the effects of
+it, our allowance is now so small that it will hardly support nature, the
+people have been without Farina, which is their bread, for some days past.
+We apply'd to the governor, who promis'd to supply us the next day;
+accordingly we went for a supply, which created fresh murmurings among the
+soldiers; however we got a small quantity of bread to supply us for ten
+days. The store-keeper shew'd me all the provisions, which, considering
+there were a thousand to draw their subsistence from it, was a small stock
+indeed, and not above six weeks at the present allowance. He told me we
+were serv'd equally with the soldiers, and when more stores came, which
+they shortly expected, our allowance should be encreas'd. I think, in
+reason, this is as much as we can expect. The lieutenant not coming nigh us
+since our first landing, I went with the people up to him at the
+governor's, about two miles from this port, to endeavour to prevail with
+him to get us dispatch'd, acquainting him of the call and necessity there
+was for our assistance on board the two distress'd ships at Rio Janeiro. He
+said he had spoke to the governor, and could not get us dispatch'd till
+another vessel came in. I told him, as the garrison were in want of
+provisions, what we were living on here would carry us off, and if any
+misfortune should attend the vessel expected in with the provisions, we
+should be put very hard to it for a subsistence. He promis'd to acquaint
+the governor; on which I took my leave.
+
+February the 17th, this evening came into this garrison three seamen,
+giving an account of their belonging to a vessel with provisions and stores
+for this place, from Rio Janeiro, that they had been from thence three
+months, and had been off the bar waiting an opportunity to come in; that
+not having any fresh water aboard, they were oblig'd to come to an anchor
+ten leagues to the southward of this port, that a canoe was sent with those
+three men to fill the water, but the wind coming in from the sea, and
+blowing hard, oblig'd the vessel to put to sea, and leave them ashore, from
+whence they travelled here, and believ'd the vessel was gone to St
+Catharine's. The governor, not satisfy'd with this report, took them for
+spies, and kept them as such. However, in a day or two afterwards, he
+dispatch'd a pilot and two seamen for the island St Catharine, to bring the
+vessel round, in case she should be there.
+
+I took this opportunity of sending a letter by them to the Honourable
+Captain Murray, commander of his majesty's ship the Pearl, at Rio Janeiro;
+desiring them to order it to be dispatch'd by the first ship from St
+Catharine's to the Rio Janeiro.
+
+
+"Honourable Sir,
+
+"I take it as a duty incumbent on me to acquaint you that his majesty's
+ship the Wager was wrecked on a desolate island on the coast of Patagonia,
+in the latitude of 47 00 S. and W. longitude from the meridian of London 81
+30, on the 14th of May, 1741. After lengthening the longboat, and fitting
+her in the best manner we could, launched her on the 13th of October, and
+embarked and sailed, on the 14th, with the barge and cutter, to the number
+of eighty-one souls in all. Captain Cheap,--at his own request, tarried
+behind, with Lieutenant Hamilton, and Mr Elliot, the surgeon. After a long
+and fatiguing passage, coming through the Streights of Magellan, we arrived
+here the 28th of January, 1741-2, bringing into this port alive to the
+number of thirty, viz.
+
+Robert Beans, lieutenant
+John Bulkeley, gunner
+John Cummins, carpenter
+Robert Elliot, surgeon's mate
+John Jones, master's mate
+John Snow, ditto
+John Mooring, boatswain's mate
+John Young, cooper
+William Oram, carpenter's crew
+John King, boatswains
+Nicholas Griselham, seaman
+Samuel Stook, ditto
+James Mac Cawlo, ditto
+William Lane, ditto
+John Montgomery, ditto
+John George, ditto
+Richard East, ditto
+James Butler, ditto
+John Pitman, ditto
+Job Barns, seaman
+John Shoreham, ditto
+Thomas Edmunds, ditto
+Richard Powell, ditto
+Diego Findall, (the Portugueze boy).
+Captain Robert Pemberton, of his majesty's
+  land forces
+Lieutenants Ewers and Fielding, ditto
+Vincent Oakley, surgeon of ditto
+And two marines.
+
+All which are living at present, and waiting an opportunity of a passage in
+a Portugueze vessel, our own not being in a condition to proceed any
+farther, having no sails, and being so bad in all other respects, that the
+governor will not suffer us to hazard our lives in her, but hath promised
+to dispatch us in the very first vessel that arrives in this port, where
+we, with impatience, are obliged to tarry. We humbly pay our duty to
+Captain Leg, praying the representation of this to him. From, Most
+honourable Sir, Yours, &c."
+
+
+Saturday the 20th, last night the three seamen which came here, as
+mention'd before, with five more of this place, attempted to run away with
+one of the large boats; but they were pursu'd and taken: Their design was
+for the river Plate, the wind then favouring them. This was evident, that
+the governor was right in his conjecture, and did not suspect them
+wrongfully; they are now prisoners in the guard-house. The next morning I
+went to the lieutenant, desiring him to apply to the governor for a pass
+and horses for myself, Mr Cummins, and John Young, to go by land to St
+Catharine's and St Francisco, where we need not doubt of a passage to his
+majesty's distress'd ships at Rio Janeiro: That it was our duty to hasten
+to their assistance: That he, the lieutenant, ought, the very day after our
+arrival into this port, without any regard to expence and charges, to have
+dispatch'd a special messenger by land, and then we might have been assur'd
+of a vessel before now. The lieutenant answer'd, he had a thought of
+enquiring at first coming about what I had mention'd, and of going himself,
+tho' it cost him fifty pounds; but he was inform'd it was impossible to go
+by land. I ask'd him, If so how came the brigadier from St Catharine's
+here? As for fatigue or trouble, whoever undertook to go, he must expect
+that; but there was no hardship to be encounter'd comparable to what we had
+already undergone. We lay here on expence to the king, without doing any
+service, and run the hazard of not only losing the opportunity of getting
+on board our own ships, but perhaps of missing the Flota, and of wintering
+here, therefore I begg'd he would entreat the governor to let us have
+horses and guides; which he promis'd to mention to the governor at dinner,
+and send me his answer in the afternoon without fail. I waited with
+impatience for this answer; but the lieutenant failing in his promise, was
+the occasion of my sending him this letter.
+
+
+"Sir,
+
+"I am sorry you should give me the liberty of telling you, you have not
+discharg'd your promise, by letting us know the governor's answer to what
+we requested: Which was, at our expence and charge, to go to the assistance
+of his majesty's ships at Rio Janeiro; since which time I am to inform you
+that we are in want of provision, having none of any kind allow'd us
+yesterday, and but one small fish per man for two days before. The meaning
+of which, I believe, is owing to you, by the endeavouring, through the
+persuasions of the persons you confide in, to blacken us, and in so vile a
+manner, that you seem unacquainted with the ill consequence, which may
+attend the touching a man's character. We know, and are fully convinced,
+from what has been done already, that nothing will be allow'd or granted us
+but by your means: Mr Cummins and myself ask no favour from you, but to use
+your endeavours to get us dispatches to the ships at Rio Janeiro, where
+every man must give account of his actions, and justice take place. If I am
+not mistaken, you told me that what we were supply'd with here was a bounty
+flowing from the generous spirit of the governor, and the gentlemen of the
+place. If this be the case, we ought to be very thankful indeed. I am
+surprized, sir, you don't see the grievances of the inhabitants here, and
+hear the soldiers murmurings for want of their arrears. If they should
+revolt at this juncture, we shall stand a very bad chance. I must acquaint
+you, sir, the vessel we came in is not so much out of repair, but that, if
+you can get canvas out of the store for sails, we can make 'em, and get
+ready for sailing in ten days time. And if the vessel expected here with
+supplies comes in a shorter time, our vessel will be ready fix'd for the
+use of the governor; and if one vessel should not be large enough to carry
+us all off, we can go in company. I imagine you know of the stores being
+robbed, and the disturbance among the soldiers, which must occasion
+uneasiness enough, without repeating grievances, where relief is not to be
+had. I beg, sir, you'll get us dispatch'd with all expedition to his
+majesty's service, that we may not lose the opportunity of joining the two
+ships and the Flota.
+
+Sir, yours."
+
+
+The next morning the lieutenant came down on horseback, being the first
+time of his appearing among us since we have been here, which is above
+three weeks; we went with him to the commandant, who promised we should not
+want fresh beef and fish, but as for bread there is none to be got. William
+Oram, one of the carpenter's crew, died this day in the hospital.
+
+March the 6th, for several days the people very uneasy at the vessel's not
+arriving, the wind having been fair for above three weeks past, and little
+or no provisions in store, which makes them doubtful of any to be
+dispatch'd to their relief. This day we are resolv'd to go by land, if the
+governor will only allow us a guide; we acquainted the lieutenant with our
+resolution; he went with me and Mr Jones to the governor, we obtain'd leave
+to go, with the promise of a guide. Captain Pemberton, being at the
+governor's, desired to go with us; the governor told him the journey was so
+difficult and tedious, it would be impossible for him to encounter with it.
+The captain answer'd, that he had a company on board his majesty's ship the
+Severn, where his duty call'd him, and was determin'd, with the governor's
+leave, to share his fate with us by land, which was granted. The governor
+told us, notwithstanding the present scarcity of provisions in the place,
+that he had so great a regard for an Englishman, that whilst he had any
+thing for himself, we should not want, for which we thank'd him heartily.
+This governor is certainly a gentleman of a noble generous spirit, of
+exceeding humanity and goodness, and I believe him to have a sincere regard
+for an Englishman.
+
+March the 9th, this morning Mr Jones went over with me to the north side,
+to make an agreement for six people to go to St Catharine's; while we were
+here, the governor received letters from St Catharine's, which gave an
+account of four vessels on their passage for this port; on the news of this
+we put by our journey: It was very lucky we had not set out on this journey
+before we heard the news; for on the nineteenth, the vessels for Rio
+Janeiro arrived, and brought an account that the Severn and Pearl were
+sail'd from thence for the island of Barbadoes. Those vessels not only
+brought the soldiers provisions, but also a pardon.
+
+On the 20th, the brigadier arriv'd, and had all the soldiers drawn up,
+where their pardon was read to them: He acquainted them with what money was
+come, which was not above a third part of their arrears, but the remainder
+was on the passage. The money he had for them should be paid directly, as
+far as it would go, if they would take it; but they cry'd out with one
+voice, The whole or none, and a great disturbance there was, some was for
+revolting to the king of Spain, some began to change their notes, and were
+for taking part of the money, and the rest insisted upon the whole. To
+quell this disturbance, the commandant, whom they look'd upon more than the
+brigadier, or the governor, used his utmost endeavours. They told the
+commandant they were no longer soldiers than while they were in the king's
+pay, and let those who are for the king, draw off one way by themselves;
+you are our commander, we trust in you to answer for us, what you do we
+will stand by with our lives: On which the commandant deliver'd his command
+up, shouldering his firelock, and took the place of a common soldier,
+telling them, since the king was so good as to pardon them, he thought it
+his duty to accept it. The brigadier was so well pleased with the behaviour
+of the commandant, that he ran to him, took him in his arms, and embraced
+him: The rest of the soldiers follow'd the example of their late
+commandant, delivering their respective commands up to their proper
+officers. This day put an end to the disturbance and confusion which had
+been some time among them, and restor'd them to tranquillity, good
+discipline, and order.
+
+March the 22d, this morning went to the lieutenant for leave to go in the
+first vessel, which was expected to sail in four days time: He told me he
+expected to go in her himself, and that we could not go off all in one
+vessel, there might be room for the officers, but the people must wait
+another opportunity. I told him that it was a duty incumbent on the
+officers that were in pay particularly to take care of the people; You,
+sir, have been sure of half-pay ever since the ship was lost; we are not,
+but I will tarry myself behind with the people, and be answerable for them,
+if you'll give me a note under your hand to secure me the value of my pay,
+from the loss of the ship, otherwise I don't know any business I have but
+to endeavour to get to England as soon as I can, and will put it out of
+your power to prevent my going off in the first vessel. I left the
+lieutenant, and went with Mr Cummins, Mr Jones, Mr Snow, M. King, and Dr
+Oakley to the governor, to obtain leave for our going, the lieutenant
+follow'd us, and said, but one half could go at a time. The governor told
+us it was order'd that the land-officers, myself and the rest that apply'd
+to go by land, should be the first dispatch'd, and might go on board when
+we would, but as the vessel did not belong to the king, we must buy
+provisions, and pay for our passage. I said, Sir, we have not money to
+answer the expence: He then ask'd me whether I had not several times
+apply'd to him for leave to go by land at my own charges? I answer'd, We
+were obliged to dispose of our watches to raise that money, which will
+barely be sufficient to carry us six off that intended to go by land,
+therefore what must become of the rest who have not a single penny? And I
+hope, sir, that you are not unacquainted that the king of Great-Britain
+allows to all his subjects, distress'd in this manner, five vintins per day
+to each man for subsistence. On my saying this, the governor call'd the
+commissary and major: He walk'd and talk'd with them aside; then came back
+again, and told us the account was so small, that it was not worth charging
+the king of England with it; therefore we must buy our own provisions, and
+pay our passage, and as to what we had received from them, we were welcome;
+upon which we thank'd them and came away. We then consulted with the
+lieutenant, to know what could be done with the people, and that as the
+vessel we came in was not fit to proceed any farther, it was to no purpose
+to leave her there; therefore we desired his consent to sell her, believing
+the money she would bring would be sufficient to carry us all off. To this
+proposal the lieutenant consented. We then apply'd to the master of the
+vessel, to know what he would have for our passage; his demand was forty
+shillings per man, of which we acquainted the lieutenant, who told us he
+could not see what we could do, and, on second consideration, would not
+give his consent to sell the boat, for when sold, he did not think she
+would fetch the money. Those words of the lieutenant put us all to a stand,
+especially after he had but now given his consent to sell her, and in so
+short time to declare the reverse was very odd; tho' indeed it did not much
+surprise us, because this gentleman was never known to be over stedfast to
+his word. Seeing no possibility of carrying the people off without selling
+the boat, I told the lieutenant, if he left them behind, I could not think
+but so many of his majesty's subjects were sold, and believ'd he had made a
+present of the vessel to the governor. At this the lieutenant paus'd for a
+while, and then said, he had not money to carry himself off without selling
+his coat. I reply'd, There was no occasion for that, when he had a gold
+watch. The next morning went to the lieutenant again about our going off;
+he acquainted us, that the brigadier had order'd things in another manner;
+that myself, and nine more, being the persons desirous of going, should be
+dispatch'd in the first vessel, and every thing found us; that he, the
+lieutenant, was to tarry behind with the rest of the people, and to come in
+the next vessel, an estimate of the charges being made out; and he also
+told us, he had a severe check for requesting to go first himself, and
+offering to leave the people behind.
+
+Sunday, March 28th, I embark'd on board the St Catharine's brigantine, with
+the carpenter, boatswain, the two mates, the surgeon of marines, the
+cooper, and six of the people, the provisions laid in for us were two casks
+of salt beef and ten alcadoes of farina.
+
+Wednesday the 31st, we sail'd for Rio Janeiro, with the wind at W., steer'd
+S.E. and S.E. by E., until over the bar; then E. by N., and E.N.E., with a
+fine gale, and clear weather; there is not above two fathom and half water
+on the bar at high-water; when you are in, it is a fine commodious harbour
+for small vessels; it is a low land, of a sandy soil: Here is abundance of
+fine cattle, with fresh-water fish, melons exceeding good, plenty of water,
+and the best milk I ever tasted.
+
+Thursday, April the 8th, little wind at S.W., and fair weather. At ten this
+morning anchor'd before the town of St Sebastians. The Portugueze pilots,
+who have been in England, call the land here the Isle of Wight; and indeed
+it is very like it, tho' not so large, being only eight miles in length.
+This is a very secure harbour for shipping; a stranger may go in or out
+without any difficulty. At this place I was ashore, and think it as
+delightful and pleasant a place as ever I saw in America, abounding with
+fruit, as oranges, lemons, bonanoes; also with yams, potatoes, fish, and
+fowl.
+
+Saturday the 10th, sail'd from St Sebastians, little wind at S.W., steer'd
+out S.E. between the island and the main; at eight in the morning, on the
+Monday following, we anchor'd before the city of Rio Janeiro.
+
+Tuesday the 13th, this morning we were all order'd before the governor. A
+Dutch surgeon was sent for, who spoke very good English. After enquiring
+into our misfortunes, the governor order'd him to be our consul, telling
+us, that we should have a convenient house, with firing, and eight vintins
+a man per day subsistence-money: He also desir'd we might make no
+disturbance among ourselves, which we promis'd to avoid. A nobleman went
+with the consul to look out for our habitation; they fix'd on a large
+magnificent house, fit for a person of quality. This being the first day of
+our coming ashore, they were pleas'd to order a dinner and supper out of
+doors, and sent us where we were to eat all together. This was the first
+time of the boatswain's eating with the rest of the officers since we left
+Cheap island. The consul was so kind as to send us a table, benches, and
+water-pots, and several useful things, from his own house; we thought
+ourselves very happily seated.
+
+Wednesday the 14th, this morning the consul went with the officers and
+people to the treasury for our money. Mr Oakely, surgeon of his majesty's
+land-forces, was desired by the consul to sign for it. The boatswain, who
+now look'd upon himself as our captain, was not a little displeas'd at
+this. When the money was receiv'd, the consul would have given it to the
+surgeon to pay us, but he excus'd himself, telling the consul the boatswain
+was a troublesome man, and it might occasion a disturbance, on which the
+consul was so good as to come and pay it himself. Being all together, he
+told us the governor had order'd us eight vintins a man per day; but at the
+same time had made a distinction between the officers and seamen, that the
+money received was to be paid in the manner following, viz. to the seamen
+six vintins per man, and the officers ten. The reason of this distinction
+was, that the seamen could go to work, when the officers could not, but
+must be oblig'd to live entirely on their allowance. This distinction
+caused great uneasiness, the boatswain insisting that the people had a
+right to an equal share with us. The officers, willing to make all things
+easy, desir'd the consul it might be so. The consul reply'd, The money
+should be dispos'd of according to the governor's direction, or not at all.
+The boatswain then objected against the cooper, because he was no officer.
+The consul said, Master! I believe the cooper to be a very good quiet man,
+and I dare say will take it as the men do, but sooner than this be an
+objection, I will pay the money out of my own pocket. The boatswain then
+began at me, abusing me in a very scandalous and abominable manner, saying,
+among other things, that the cooper was got among the rest of the pirates,
+for so he term'd me and the rest of the officers. When the money was paid,
+we acquainted the consul, that we had, till now, been separated from the
+boatswain, that he was of so perverse and turbulent a temper, and so
+abusive in speech, that we could not bear with him. The boatswain then
+chose to be with the people, and gave us the preference of the fore-room,
+where we desir'd to be by ourselves. There were two doors to our room, we
+lock'd both of them, and went to take a walk in the country: At our return,
+in the evening, we found the doors broke open, and a small sword belonging
+to me was broke an inch off the point, and the scabbard all in pieces. The
+boatswain had in his room an Irishman, whom he sent in on purpose to
+quarrel with us. This Irishman and Richard East, one of our own people,
+fell upon the cooper and me: East chose to engage with me, he struck me
+several times, he compelled me to stand in my own defence, and I soon
+master'd him. During this quarrel the carpenter call'd the guards, at the
+sight of whom the Irishman made his escape. I desir'd the guards to secure
+East a prisoner, but the officer told me he could not, unless I would go to
+prison with him. I told him it was my desire, and accordingly I went. The
+prison was in the governor's house. I had not been there but a few minutes
+before the governor sent for me; he enquir'd of the officer concerning the
+disturbance, and order'd me to my habitation, but detain'd East a prisoner.
+When I came home I found the boatswain and two renegadoes with him, all
+about the cooper. On seeing me, he repeated his former abusive words. He
+made us so uneasy in our lodging, that, to prevent murder, we were obliged
+to lie out of the house. Next morning Mr Oakley and Mr Cummins went to the
+consul; he came with them to the house, where we were all sent for; he told
+us it was very strange that people who had undergone so many hardships and
+difficulties could not agree lovingly together. We answer'd, we never used
+to mess together, and sooner than we would be with the boatswain, we would
+make it our choice to take a house in the country at our own expence. The
+boatswain, on hearing this, fell again into his usual strain of slander and
+abusive language, calling us rogues, villains, and pirates. It was the
+governor's first request that we might have no disturbance among us, yet
+the boatswain hath not suffer'd us to have a quiet minute since we have
+been here. The consul went with us two miles out of the city, at a fishing
+village, where we took a house at our own expence, to pay at the rate of
+ten shillings per month, there being seven of us in all, viz. myself, the
+carpenter, surgeon, the two mates, the cooper, and a seaman. Here we
+thought ourselves safe and secure. The next day, in the afternoon, two of
+the boatswain's friends, which had lately deserted from his majesty's
+service, and an Irish clerk with them, came to pay us a visit. They were so
+impertinent, as not only to enquire into the reasons of the disturbance
+among ourselves, but they also instructed us in our duty, telling us, they
+came from our commander the boatswain, with orders to see my journal. I
+told them the journal shou'd not be a secret to any person who cou'd read;
+but, at the same time, I wou'd never part with it to be copied out: They
+then drank a glass of punch with us, and left us. This is a place that a
+man is oblig'd sometimes to suffer himself to be used ill; if he resents
+all affronts, he runs a great hazard of losing his life, for here ruffians
+are to be hir'd at a small expence, and there is no place in the world
+where people will commit murder at so cheap a rate. Between nine and ten at
+night three people came to our door, one of which knock'd, telling us, that
+he was the person that was with me and the cooper in the afternoon. Being
+apprehensive that they came with no good intent, we refus'd opening the
+door, telling them, that it was an improper season of the night, and that
+we did not know they had any business with us, if they had, we told them to
+come in the morning: But they still insisted upon the door being open'd,
+saying, it would be better to do so than to be taken away in three hours'
+time. When they had said this, they went away. We did not know the meaning
+of their words, but imagin'd they were gone to bring some associates to
+beset the house; having nothing to defend ourselves with, we got over the
+back wall of the house, and took to the country for safety: In the morning
+apply'd to the consul, who remov'd us to a house in the midst of the
+village; he gave an account to the inhabitants of the design the boatswain
+had formed against us, either to compel us to deliver up the journal, or to
+take our lives; and therefore desir'd that the journal and papers might be
+deposited in the hands of a neighbour there, till the time of our going
+off. The people of the place offer'd to stand by us with their lives, in
+opposition to any persons who should attempt to do us an injury.
+
+Sunday the 18th, early this morning we were sent for to the consul. He said
+to us, Gentlemen, as the lives of three of you are in danger, and I do not
+know what villainy your boatswain may be capable of acting, in regard to
+your peace and safety, I'll endeavour to get you three on board a ship
+bound for Bahia and Lisbon; accordingly he went to the captain of the ship,
+who consented that we should go with him, on these conditions, that the
+governor should give us a pass, and that we would work for our passage;
+this we agreed to. After this we requested the governor for a pass, which
+he was so good as to grant, and is as follows:
+
+
+Nas Fortalesas sedeixem passar.
+
+_A 30 Abril_, 1742.
+
+Podem passar par Portugal em qualquer Nao que selle ofreser semque che
+ponha Impedimento algum Bahia, 19 Mayo, 1742.
+
+"Dizem Joan Bocli, e Joan Cummins, e Joan Menino, Inglezes de Nasao, e
+Cazados em Inglaterra, em quetem suas Mulleres e Fillios, que suedo
+Officais de Calafate, e Condestavel, & Joneiro, de imadas Fragatas
+Inglezas, dado a Costa de Patagonia, die fesivel a portarem, a Oporto de
+Rio Grande, donde selhedeo faculdade para passarem aesta Cidade. E como
+Naferma do Regimendo de son soberano Nao vensem soldo, algum desde otempo,
+que Nao Pagau detta Fragata, selhes las presis a passarem a Inglaterra,
+para poderem tratar de sua vida em Compania de suas familias; para oghe
+pretendem na Naude Lisensia passar a Citade da Bahia, para da hi Opoderem
+farer para Lisboa, na primera ocasio, que che for posivell, e sim desda Nao
+podem intentar dito transporte.
+
+Quaime sedigne dar che Lisensia que nas Fortalesas selhe nas ponha
+Impedimento a sua Passagein, Come e Costume aos Nacionaes decte Reyne.
+
+A. Rove."
+
+
+The foregoing in English thus.
+
+
+_Rio Janeiro Grand._
+
+From all the Forts let them pass.
+
+_April_ 30, 1742.
+
+That they may pass to Portugal in any vessel that offers itself, without
+any hindrance whatever, to Bahia, May 19, 1742.
+
+"John Bocli, [Bulkeley] John Cummins, and John Young, of the English
+nation, and married in England, where they have wives and children, the one
+being an officer, the other a carpenter, and the third cooper of the ship,
+being an English frigate, arrived on the coast of Patagonia; and at their
+arrival in the great river, i.e. Rio Grand, leave was granted them to come
+to this city; and as in the service of his majesty, they do not advance any
+money, from the time that they paid off the said ship, they are obliged to
+pass to England, that they may be enabled there to seek their livelihood
+for their respective families: Therefore they desire that they may pass in
+the license ship to the city of Bahia, that they may from thence go to
+Lisbon, by the first opportunity that shall offer; and that without the
+said ship they will not be able to perform their intended design.
+
+Leave is hereby granted them to pass by the said ship for Bahia; and we
+command all the forts to let them pass, and not hinder their passage, as is
+the custom of the nation of this kingdom.
+
+A. ROVE."
+
+
+The following is a copy of the solicitor's certificate.
+
+
+"ISTO he para que todos sabem que os Senhores Abaixo Nomeados y bem mal
+afortunados, nesta Cidade de Rio Janeiro se comporlarao com toda Dereysao
+nao dando escandalo Apesoa Alguma e Sao Dignos deque Joda pessoa posa os
+favoreser emoque for de Ajudo para Sigimento de sua Viagem omais breve
+possivel para Huropa.
+
+JOHN BULKELEY.
+JOHN CUMMINS.
+JOHN YOUNG.
+
+Hoje 1 de Mayo de 1742.
+
+A sim que Assiney este Papel Como Procu
+  rador Sosil da Nasao Britanica.
+          PEDRO HENRIQUES DELAED."
+
+
+In English thus.
+
+
+"These Presents.
+
+"Be it known to all persons, that the under-signed are in a deplorable
+condition in this city of Rio Janeiro; who have behaved themselves with
+decency and good decorum, not giving any scandal to any person whatsoever,
+and are worthy that all people may have compassion, and succour them in
+forwarding their voyage with all expedition to Europe.
+
+JOHN BULKELEY.
+JOHN CUMMINS.
+JOHN YOUNG.
+
+_The 1st of May_, 1742.
+
+I have sign'd this paper as a sollicitor of the British nation.
+
+PEDRO HENRIQ; DELAED."
+
+
+Tuesday, May the 20th, this evening myself, the carpenter, and cooper, went
+on board the St Tubes, one of the Brazil ships, carrying twenty-eight guns,
+Theophilus Orego Ferrara, commander, bound for Bahia and Lisbon. The people
+left on shore were,
+
+John Jones, Master's mate.
+John Snow, ditto.
+Vincent Oakley, surgeon.
+John King, boatswain.
+Samuel Stook, seaman.
+John Shoreham, ditto.
+John Pitman, ditto.
+Job Barns, ditto.
+Richard East, ditto.
+Richard Powell, ditto.
+
+Wednesday the 21st, early this morning the captain came on board, on seeing
+us, he ask'd us, how we came on board without his leave? Notwithstanding he
+gave leave to the consul for our passage, we ought to have waited on him
+ashore. There was on board the ship a Spanish don, a passenger, who told
+the captain, no Englishman should go in the same ship with him, therefore
+desir'd we might be turn'd ashore; but the captain insisted upon doing what
+he pleas'd on board his own ship, and would not comply with his request.
+The Spanish don, when we came to converse with him, was very much mov'd
+with the relation of our misfortunes, and said to us, though our royal
+masters, the king's of England and Spain, are at war, it was not our fault;
+that we were now on board a neutral ship; belonging to a king who was a
+friend to both nations; that he would not look upon us as enemies, but do
+us all the service he could. He extoll'd the conduct and bravery of Admiral
+Vernon at Porto Bello; but, above all, applauded him for his humanity and
+generous treatment of his enemies. He made great encomiums on the
+magnificence of the British fleet, and the boldness and intrepidity of the
+sailors, styling the English the soldiers of the sea. He supplied us in our
+passage not only with provisions from his table, but also with wine and
+brandy; and during the whole voyage appear'd so different from an enemy,
+that he took all opportunities of giving us proofs of his generosity and
+goodness.
+
+Friday, the 7th of May, 1742, this morning anchored before the city of
+Bahia, went on shore to the vice-roy, shew'd him the pass we had from the
+governor of Rio Janeiro: He told us the pass was to dispatch us to Lisbon,
+and that the first ship which sail'd from hence would be the ship we came
+in; we petition'd him for provisions, acquainting him of our reception at
+Rio Grand and Rio Janeiro, that we had hitherto been supply'd at the rate
+of eight vintins each man per day. He refused supplying us with any thing,
+upon which I told him, we had better been prisoners to the king of Spain,
+who would allow us bread and water, than in a friend's country to be
+starv'd. The captain of the ship we came in, hearing the vice-roy would not
+supply us, was so kind as to go with us to him, acquainting him how we were
+provided for at Rio Janeiro, and that he would supply us himself, if he
+would sign an account to satisfy the consul general at Lisbon, so that he
+might be reimburs'd. The vice-roy answer'd, he had no orders concerning the
+English; that he had letters from the king of Portugal his master to supply
+the French, but had no orders about any other nation, and if he gave us any
+thing it must be out of his own pocket, therefore he would not supply us.
+The captain then told him, that we were officers and subjects to the king
+of England, and in distress; that we did not want great matters, and only
+barely enough to support life, and begg'd that he would allow but four
+vintins per day, being but half the sum hitherto allow'd us. The captain's
+entreaties avail'd nothing, the vice-roy continuing as fix'd in his
+resolution of giving us no relief. I do not believe there ever was a worse
+representative of royalty upon the face of the earth than this vice-roy;
+his royal master, the king of Portugal, is very well known to have a
+grateful affection for the British nation (nor can we believe he is so
+Frenchify'd as this vice-roy makes him) his deputy differs greatly from
+him, he has given a proof of his aversion to the English. We think persons
+in the distress we were represented in to him, could in no part of the
+world, nay, in an enemy's country, be treated with more barbarity than we
+were here: We work'd here for our victuals, and then could get but one meal
+per day, which was farina and caravances. At this place we must have
+starv'd, if I had not by me some money and a silver watch of my own, which
+I was obliged to turn into money to support us. I had in money fourteen
+guineas, which I exchanged with the captain who brought us here for
+Portugueze money; he at the same time told me, it would be hard upon me to
+be so much out of pocket, and said, if I would draw a bill on the consul
+general at Lisbon for the sum, as if supplied from him, upon the payment of
+that bill, he would return me my fourteen guineas; accordingly a bill was
+drawn up by an English merchant at Bahia and sign'd by us, being as
+follows:
+
+
+"Nos abaixo asignados Joam Bulkeley, Joam Cummins, & Joam Young, Vassalos
+de sua Magg de Brittanica El Rey Jorge Segundo, declaramos que temos
+recebido da mam do Snor' Cappam de Mar e Guerra Theodorio Rodrigues de
+Faria a coanthia de Corenta eloatra Mil e Oito Centos reis em dinheiro
+decontado comque por varias vezes nos Secorreo para o Nosso Sustento des o
+dia 17 de Mayo proximo passado athe odia Prezente, por cuja caridade
+rogamos a Deos conceda mera saud Born succesto e por este pedimos humildeme
+te ao Snor' Consul Geral da Mesma Nacao que Aprezentado que este Seja nao'
+duvide em Mandar Sattis fazer as sobredito Snor' Cappam de Mar e Guerra a
+refferida coanthia visto ser expendida em Obra pia e que o Estado da nossa
+Mizeria epobreza tre nao' pode pagar e por passar na Verdade o Refferido e
+nao' sabermos Escrever pedimos a Gabriel Prynn homem de Negocio nesta
+Cidade e Interprete de Ambas as Lingoas ou Idosmas que este por Nos fizese
+e Como Testemunha Asignase.
+
+Sao 44 800 re. Bahia, 14 Setembro, 1742.
+
+JOHN BULKELEY.
+JOHN CUMMINS.
+JOHN YOUNG.
+
+Como Testsmunha que fix a rogo dos Sobreditos,
+GABRIEL PRYNN."
+
+
+The foregoing in English thus.
+
+
+"We, the undersign'd John Bulkeley, John Cummins, and John Young, subjects
+of his majesty King George the Second, King of Great Britain, do declare to
+have received from the honourable captain of sea and land, Theodore
+Rodriques of Faria, the sum of fourty-four thousand and eight hundred rees,
+in ready and lawful money, by different times, for our support and succour
+from the 17th of May instant, to this present date: And, for the said
+charily, we implore the Almighty to grant him health and prosperity. And on
+this account, we humbly desire the consul of the same nation, that, by
+these presents, he may not omit giving full satisfaction to the above-
+mention'd captain of sea and land, for the said sum, it being employed on a
+very charitable account, being in a deplorable condition, and not able to
+repay the same; and we not knowing in what manner to write, to acknowledge
+the above favours, have desired Mr Gabriel Prynn, a merchant in this city,
+and interpreter of both languages, that he may act for us; and we leave it
+to him to do in this affair as it shall seem meet unto him; and as a
+witness to this matter he hath sign'd his name.
+
+Say 44 100. Bahia, the 14th September, 1742.
+
+JOHN BULKELEY.
+JOHN CUMMINS.
+JOHN YOUNG.
+
+To the veracity of the above assertion I have sign'd my name,
+
+GABRIEL PRYNN."
+
+
+Since our being here, we have been inform'd of one of his majesty's ships
+with three store-ships being arriv'd at Rio Janeiro, supply'd with stores
+and men for the relief and assistance of the Severn and Pearl, (which were
+sail'd before in January last for Barbadoes) and that our people were gone
+on board of them, and bound for the West Indies.
+
+Here is a very good bay for ships to ride in, with the wind from E.S.E., to
+the northward and westward back to the S.W., and wind to the southward,
+which blows in and makes a very great sea. At the east side coming in,
+standeth Point de Gloria, where is a very large fortification with a tower
+in the midst: From this point the land rises gradually; about a league from
+hence is the city of Bahia; it is surrounded with fortifications, and
+equally capable of defending it against any attempts from the sea or land.
+
+Provisions here of all kinds are excessive dear, especially fish; this we
+impute to the great number of whales that come into this bay, even where
+the ships lye at anchor; the whale-boats go off and kill sometimes seven or
+eight whales in a day, the flesh of which is cut up in small pieces, then
+brought to the market-place, and sold at the rate of a vintin per pound; it
+looks very much like coarse beef, but inferior to it in taste. The whales
+here are not at all equal in size to the whales in Greenland, being not
+larger than the grampus. After living here above four months without any
+relief from the governor or the inhabitants, who behaved to us as if they
+were under a combination to starve us, we embark'd on board the St Tubes
+with our good friend the captain who brought us from Rio Janeiro: We sail'd
+from Bahia the 11th of September for Lisbon, in company with one of the
+king of Portugal's ships of war, and two East India ships, but the St Tubes
+not being able to sail so well as the other ships, lost sight of them the
+first night. About 70 leagues from the westward of Madeira we bent a new
+foresail; within two or three days afterwards, we had a very hard gale of
+wind, scudding under the foresail, and no danger happening to the ship
+during this gale. When the wind had ceas'd, and we had fair weather, the
+captain, after the evening mass, made an oration to the people, telling
+them that their deliverance from danger in the last gale of wind, and the
+ship though leaky, making no more water than before, was owing to their
+prayers to Nuestra Senhora Boa Mortua and her intercession: That in
+gratitude they ought to make an acknowledgement to that saint for standing
+their friend in time of need: That he himself would shew an example by
+giving the new fore-sail, which was bent to the yard, to the saint their
+deliverer: Accordingly one of the seamen went forward and mark'd out these
+words on the sail, _Deal esta Trinchado pour nostra Senhora Boa Mortua_,
+which is as much as to say, _I give this foresail to our saint, the
+deliverer from death_. The sail and money collected on this occasion
+amounted to upwards of twenty moydores.
+
+On Monday, the 23d of November, in the latitude 39: 17 north, and longitude
+6:00 W., that day at noon the rock of Lisbon bearing S. by W., distant
+sixteen leagues; we steer'd E.S.E., to make the rock before night. At four
+o'clock it blew a very hard gale, and right on the shore: The ship lay-to
+under a foresail, with her head to the southward; at six it blew a storm;
+the foresail splitting, oblig'd us to keep her before the wind, which was
+running her right ashore. The ship was now given over for lost, the people
+all fell to prayers, and cry'd out to their saints for deliverance,
+offering all they had in the world for their lives, and yet at the same
+time neglecting all means to save themselves; they left off pumping the
+ship, though she was exceeding leaky. This sort of proceeding in time of
+extremity is a thing unknown to our English seamen; in those emergencies
+all hands are employ'd for the preservation of the ship and people, and if
+any of them fall upon their knees, 'tis after the danger is over. The
+carpenter and myself could by no means relish this behaviour; we begg'd the
+people for God's sake to go to the pumps, telling them we had a chance to
+save our lives, while we kept the ship above water, that we ought not to
+suffer the ship to sink, while we could keep her free. The captain and
+officers hearing us pressing them so earnestly, left off prayers, and
+entreated the men to keep the pumps going, accordingly we went to pumping,
+and preserv'd ourselves and the ship: In half an hour afterwards the wind
+shifted to the W.N.W., then the ship lay south, which would clear the
+course along shore; had the wind not shifted, we must in an hour's time
+have run the ship ashore. This deliverance, as well as the former, was
+owing to the intercession of Nuestra Senhora Boa Mortua: On this occasion
+they collected fifty moydores more, and made this pious resolution, that
+when the ship arrived safe at Lisbon, the foresail, which was split in the
+last gale of wind, should be carried in procession to the church of this
+grand saint, and the captain should there make an offering equal in value
+to the foresail, which was reckon'd worth eighteen moydores.
+
+On Saturday, the 28th of November, we arrived at Lisbon, and on the next
+morning every person who came in the ship, (excepting the carpenter,
+myself, and the cooper) officers, passengers, the Spanish don himself, and
+all the people, men and boys, walk'd bare-footed, with the foresail, in
+procession, to the church of Nuestra Senhora Boa Mortua; the weather at
+that time being very cold, and the church a good mile distant from the
+landing-place. We Englishmen, when we came ashore, went immediately on the
+Change. I was pretty well known to some gentlemen of the English factory.
+When I inform'd them that we were three of the unfortunate people that were
+cast away in the Wager, and that we came here in one of the Brazil ships,
+and wanted to embrace the first opportunity of going for England, they told
+me, that the lieutenant had been before us, that he was gone home in the
+packet-boat, and left us a very indifferent character. I answer'd, I
+believ'd the lieutenant you'd give but a very bad account of himself,
+having kept no journal, nor made any remarks since the loss of the ship,
+nor perhaps before; that we doubted not but to acquit ourselves of any
+false accusations, having with us a journal, which gave an impartial
+relation of all our proceedings. The journal was read by several gentlemen
+of the factory, who treated us, during our stay at Lisbon, with exceeding
+kindness and benevolence.
+
+On the 20th of December, we embark'd on board his majesty's ship the
+Stirling Castle for England: Here we had again the happiness of
+experiencing the difference between a British and a foreign ship,
+particularly in regard to cleanliness, accommodation, diet, and discipline.
+We met with nothing material in our passage, and arrived at Spithead on the
+1st of January, 1742-3. Here we thought of nothing but going ashore
+immediately to our families, but were told by the captain, we must not stir
+out of the ship till he knew the pleasure of the l----ds of the A----y,
+having already wrote to them concerning us. This was a very great
+affliction to us, and the more so, because we thought our troubles at an
+end. The carpenter and myself were in view of our habitations; our families
+had long given us over for lost, and on the news of our safety, our
+relatives look'd upon us as sons, husbands, and fathers, restor'd to them
+in a miraculous manner. Our being detain'd on board gave them great
+anxiety; we endeavour'd to console 'em as well as we could, being assured,
+that we had done nothing to offend their l----s; that if things were not
+carried on with that order and regularity which is strictly observ'd in the
+navy, necessity drove us out of the common road. Our case was singular;
+since the loss of the ship, our chiefest concern was for the preservation
+of our lives and liberties, to accomplish which, we acted according to the
+dictates of nature, and the best of our understanding. In a fortnight's
+time, their l----ps order'd us at liberty, and we instantly went ashore to
+our respective habitations, having been absent from thence about two years
+and six months.
+
+After we had staid a few days with our families, we came to London, to pay
+our duties to the l----ds of the A----y. We sent in our journal for, their
+l----ps' inspection: They had before received a narrative from the l----t,
+which narrative he confesses to be a relation of such things as occur'd
+to his memory; therefore of consequence could not be so satisfactory as a
+journal regularly kept. This journal lay for some time in the a----y
+o----e, when we were order'd to make an abstract, by way of narrative, that
+it might not be too tedious for their l----ps' perusal. After the narrative
+was examined into, their l----ps, upon our petition, were pleased to fix a
+day for examining all the officers lately belonging to the Wager. The
+gentlemen appointed to make enquiry into the whole affair were three
+commanders of ships, persons of distinguish'd merit and honour. However, it
+was afterwards thought proper not to admit us to any examination, till the
+arrival of the commodore, or else Captain Cheap. And it was also resolv'd,
+that not a person of us should receive any wages, or be employed in his
+majesty's service, till every thing relating to the Wager was more plain
+and conspicuous. There was no favour shewn in this case to one more than
+another, so that every body seem'd easy with their l----ps' resolution. All
+that we have to wish for now is the safe arrival of the commodore and
+Captain Cheap: We are in expectation of soon seeing the former, but of the
+captain we have as yet no account. However, we hope, when the commodore
+shall arrive, that the character he will give of us will be of service to
+us: He was very well acquainted with the behaviour of every officer in his
+squadron, and will certainly give an account of them accordingly.
+
+
+[119] In reprinting this very curious and scarce Narrative, we have thought
+    it proper to adhere to the orthography and contractions of the
+    original throughout. The former are little different from the present
+    standard, and the latter cannot give any trouble to the reader.
+    Altogether, this is a composition not without merit sufficient to
+    warrant its being preserved.--E.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+END OF VOLUME SEVENTEENTH.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A General History and Collection of
+Voyages and Travels, Volume 17, by Robert Kerr
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES AND TRAVELS ***
+
+***** This file should be named 15425-8.txt or 15425-8.zip *****
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+<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN">
+<html>
+<head>
+<title>Voyages and Travels Volume 17</title>
+<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content=
+"text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">
+<style type="text/css">
+<!--
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+h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {color:green; text-align:center}
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+<body>
+
+<pre>
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A General History and Collection of Voyages
+and Travels, Volume 17, by Robert Kerr
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+Title: A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Volume 17
+       Arranged in Systematic Order: Forming a Complete History
+       of the Origin and Progress of Navigation, Discovery, and
+       Commerce, by Sea and Land, from the Earliest Ages to the
+       Present Time
+
+Author: Robert Kerr
+
+Release Date: March 21, 2005 [EBook #15425]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES AND TRAVELS ***
+
+Produced by Robert Connal, Paul Ereaut and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team, from images generously made
+available by the Canadian Institute for Historical
+Microreproductions.
+</pre>
+
+<h2>A</h2>
+
+<h2>GENERAL</h2>
+
+<h2>HISTORY AND COLLECTION</h2>
+
+<h2>OF</h2>
+
+<h1>VOYAGES AND TRAVELS,</h1>
+
+<h2>ARRANGED IN SYSTEMATIC ORDER:</h2>
+
+<h2>FORMING A COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE ORIGIN AND PROGRESS</h2>
+
+<h2>OF NAVIGATION, DISCOVERY, AND COMMERCE,</h2>
+
+<h2>BY SEA AND LAND,</h2>
+
+<h2>FROM THE EARLIEST AGES TO THE PRESENT TIME.</h2>
+
+<hr align="center" width="25%">
+<h2>BY</h2>
+
+<h2>ROBERT KERR, F.R.S. &amp; F.A.S. EDIN.</h2>
+
+<hr align="center" width="25%">
+<h2>ILLUSTRATED BY MAPS AND CHARTS.</h2>
+
+<h2>VOL. XVII.</h2>
+
+<h3>WILLIAM BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH:</h3>
+
+<h3>AND T. CADELL, LONDON.</h3>
+
+<h3>1816</h3>
+
+<hr align="center" width="50%">
+<h2>CONTENTS OF VOLUME XVII.</h2>
+
+<hr align="center" width="50%">
+
+<p><a href="#part3"><b>PART III.--continued</b></a></p>
+
+<p><i>General Voyages and Travels of Discovery, &amp;c.</i></p>
+
+<p><a href="#book3-3"><b>BOOK III.--continued</b></a></p>
+
+<p><a href="#chapter5"><b><i>CHAPTER V--Continued.</i></b></a></p>
+
+<p>Captain King's Journal of the Transactions on returning to the Sandwich Islands.
+
+<p>SECT. VI. General Account of the Sandwich Islands. Their Number, Names, and
+  Situation. OWHYHEE. Its Extent, and Division into Districts. Account of
+  its Coasts, and the adjacent Country. Volcanic Appearances. Snowy
+  Mountains. Their Height determined. Account of a Journey into the
+  Interior Parts of the Country. MOWEE. TAHOOHOWA. MOROTOI. RANAI. WOAHOO.
+  ATOOI. ONEEHEOW. OREEHOUA. TAAOORA. Climate. Winds. Currents. Tides.
+  Animals and Vegetables. Astronomical Observations.
+
+<p>SECT. VII. General Account of the Sandwich Islands continued. Of the
+  Inhabitants. Their Origin. Persons. Pernicious effects of the Ava.
+  Numbers. Disposition and Manners. Reasons for supposing them not
+  Cannibals. Dress and Ornaments. Villages and Houses. Food. Occupations
+  and Amusements. Addicted to Gaming. Their extraordinary Dexterity in
+  Swimming. Arts and Manufactures. Curious Specimens of their Sculpture.
+  Kipparee, or Method of Painting Cloth. Mats. Fishing Hooks. Cordage.
+  Salt Pans. Warlike Instruments.
+
+<p>SECT. VIII. General Account of the Sandwich Islands continued.
+  Government. People divided into three Classes. Power of Erreetaboo.
+  Genealogy of the Kings of Owhyhee and Mowee. Power of the Chiefs. State
+  of the inferior Class. Punishment of Crimes. Religion. Society of
+  Priests. The Orono. Their Idols. Songs chanted by the Chiefs, before
+  they drink Ava. Human Sacrifices. Custom of Knocking out the fore Teeth.
+  Notions with regard to a future State. Marriages. Remarkable Instance of
+  Jealousy. Funeral Rites.
+
+<p><a href="#chapter6"><b><i>CHAPTER VI.</i></b></a></p>
+
+<p>Transactions during the second Expedition to the North, by the way of
+Kamtschatka; and on the Return Home by the way of Canton and the Cape of
+Good Hope.
+
+<p>SECT. I. Departure from Oneheeow. Fruitless Attempt to discover Modoopapappa.
+  Course steered for Awatska Bay. Occurrences during that Passage. Sudden
+  Change from Heat to Cold. Distress occasioned by the Leaking of the
+  Resolution. View of the Coast of Kamtschatka. Extreme Rigour of the
+  Climate. Lose Sight of the Discovery. The Resolution enters the Bay of
+  Awatska. Prospect of the Town of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. Party sent
+  ashore. Their Reception by the Commanding-Officer of the Port. Message
+  dispatched to the Commander at Bolcheretsk. Arrival of the Discovery.
+  Return of the Messengers from the Commander. Extraordinary mode of
+  Travelling. Visit from a Merchant and a German Servant belonging to the
+  Commander.
+
+<p>SECT. II. Scarcity of Provisions and Stores at the Harbour of Saint Peter and
+  Saint Paul; A Party set out to visit the Commander at Bolcheretsk.
+  Passage up the River Awatska. Account of their Reception by the Toion of
+  Karatchin. Description of Kamtschadale Dress. Journey on Sledges.
+  Description of this Mode of Travelling. Arrival at Natcheekin. Account
+  of Hot Springs. Embark on Bolchoireka. Reception at the Capital.
+  Generous and hospitable Conduct of the Commander and the Garrison.
+  Description of Bolcheretsk. Presents from the Commander. Russian and
+  Kamtschadale Dancing. Affecting Departure from Bolcheretsk. Return to
+  Saint Peter and Saint Paul's, accompanied by Major Behm, who visits the
+  Ship. Generosity of the Sailors. Dispatches sent by Major Behm to
+  Petersburg. His Departure and Character.
+
+<p>SECT. III. Continuation of Transactions in the Harbour of St Peter and St
+  Paul. Abundance of Fish. Death of a Seaman belonging to the Resolution.
+  The Russian Hospital put under the Care of the Ship's Surgeons. Supply
+  of Flour and Cattle. Celebration of the King's Birth-day. Difficulties
+  in Sailing out of the Bay. Eruption of a Volcano. Steer to the
+  Northward. Cheepoonskoi Noss. Errors of the Russian Charts.
+  Kamptschatskoi Noss. Island of St. Laurence. View, from the same Point,
+  of the Coasts Asia and America, and the Islands of St. Diomede. Various
+  Attempts to get to the North, between the two Continents. Obstructed by
+  impenetrable Ice. Sea-horses and White Bears killed. Captain Clerke's
+  Determination and future Designs.
+
+<p>SECT. IV. Fruitless Attempts to penetrate through Ice to the North-West.
+  Dangerous Situation of the Discovery. Sea-horses killed. Fresh
+  Obstructions from the Ice. Report of Damages, received by the Discovery.
+  Captain Clerke's Determination to proceed to the Southward. Joy of the
+  Ships' Crews on that Occasion. Pass Serdze Kamen. Return through
+  Beering's Strait. Enquiry into the Extent of the North-East Coast of
+  Asia. Reasons for rejecting Muller's Map of the Promontory of the
+  Tschutski. Reasons for believing the Coast does not reach a higher
+  Latitude than 70-2/3° North. General Observations on the
+  Impracticability of a North-East or North-West Passage from the Atlantic
+  into the Pacific Ocean. Comparative View of the Progress made in the
+  Years 1778 and 1779. Remarks on the Sea and Sea-coasts, North of
+  Beering's Strait. History of the Voyage resumed. Pass the Island of St.
+  Laurence. The Island of Mednoi. Death of Captain Clerke. Short Account
+  of his Services.
+
+<p>SECT. V. Return to the Harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. Promotion of
+  Officers. Funeral of Captain Clerke. Damages of the Discovery repaired.
+  Various other Occupations of the Ships' Crews. Letters from the
+  Commander. Supply of Flour and Naval Stores from a Russian Galliot.
+  Account of an Exile. Bear-hunting and Fishing Parties. Disgrace of the
+  Serjeant. Celebration of the King's Coronation Day, and Visit from the
+  Commander. The Serjeant reinstated. A Russian Soldier promoted at our
+  Request. Remarks on the Discipline of the Russian Army. Church at
+  Paratounca. Method of Bear-hunting. Farther Account of the Bears and
+  Kamtschadales. Inscription to the Memory of Captain Clerke. Supply of
+  Cattle. Entertainments on the Empress's Name Day. Present from the
+  Commander. Attempt of a Marine to desert. Work out of the Bay. Nautical
+  and Geographical Description of Awatska Bay. Astronomical Tables and
+  Observations.
+
+<p>SECT. VI. General Account of Kamtschatka. Geographical Description. Rivers.
+  Soil. Climate. Volcanoes. Hot Springs. Productions. Vegetables. Animals.
+  Birds. Fish.
+
+<p>SECT. VII. General Account of Kamtschatka, continued. Of the Inhabitants.
+  Origin of the Kamtschadales. Discovered by the Russians. Abstract of
+  their History. Numbers. Present State. Of the Russian Commerce in
+  Kamtschatka. Of the Kamtschadale Habitations, and Dress. Of the Kurile
+  Islands. The Koreki. The Tschutski.
+
+<p>SECT. VIII. Plan of our future Proceedings. Course to the Southward, along the
+  Coast of Kamtschatka. Cape Lopatka. Pass the Islands Shoomska and
+  Paramousir. Driven to the Eastward of the Kuriles. Singular Situation
+  with respect to the pretended Discoveries of former Navigators.
+  Fruitless Attempts to reach the Islands North of Japan. Geographical
+  Conclusions. View of the Coast of Japan. Run along the East Side. Pass
+  two Japanese Vessels. Driven off the Coast by contrary Winds.
+  Extraordinary Effect of Currents. Steer for the Bashees. Pass large
+  Quantities of Pumice Stone. Discover Sulphur Island. Pass the Pratas.
+  Isles of Lema, and Ladrone Island. Chinese Pilot taken on board the
+  Resolution. Journals of the Officers and Men secured.
+
+<p>SECT. IX. Working up to Macao. A Chinese Comprador. Sent on Shore to visit the
+  Portuguese Governor. Effects of the Intelligence we received from
+  Europe. Anchor in the Typa. Passage up to Canton. Bocca Tygris. Wampu.
+  Description of a Sampane. Reception at the English Factory. Instance of
+  the suspicious Character of the Chinese. Of their Mode of trading. Of
+  the City of Canton. Its Size. Population. Number of Sampanes. Military
+  Force. Of the Streets and Houses. Visit to a Chinese. Return to Macao.
+  Great Demand for the Sea-Otter Skins. Plan of a Voyage for opening a
+  Fur-Trade on the Western Coast of America, and prosecuting further
+  Discoveries in the Neighbourhood of Japan. Departure from Macao. Price
+  of Provisions in China.
+
+<p>SECT. X. Leave the Typa. Orders of the Court of France respecting Captain
+  Cook. Resolutions in consequence thereof. Strike Soundings on the
+  Macclesfield Banks. Pass Pulo Sapata. Steer for Pulo Condore. Anchor at
+  Pulo Condore. Transactions during our Stay. Journey to the principal
+  Town. Receive a Visit from a Mandarin. Examine his Letters. Refreshments
+  to be procured. Description, and present State of the Island. Its
+  Produce. An Assertion of M. Sonnerat refuted. Astronomical and Nautical
+  Observations.
+
+<p>SECT. XI. Departure from Pulo Condore. Pass the Straits of Banca. View of the
+  Island of Sumatra. Straits of Sunda. Occurrences there. Description of
+  the Island of Cracatoa. Prince's Island. Effects of the Climate of Java.
+  Run to the Cape of Good Hope. Transactions there. Description of False
+  Bay. Passage to the Orkneys. General Reflections.
+
+<p><a href="#vocab"><b><i>Vocabulary of the Language of Nootka, or King George's Sound. April, 1778.</i></b></a></p>
+
+<p><a href="#table"><b><i>Table to shew the Affinity between the Languages Spoken at Oonalashka and
+Norton Sound, and those of the Greenlanders and Esquimaux.</i></b></a></p>
+
+<p><a href="#appendix1"><b><i>APPENDIX, No. I. BYRON'S NARRATIVE.</i></b></a></p>
+
+<p>The Author's Preface.
+
+<p><a href="#ch1"><b><i>Chapter I.</i></b></a></p>
+
+<p>Account of the Wager and her Equipment. Captain Kid's Death.
+  Succeeded by Captain Cheap. Our Disasters commence with our Voyage. We
+  lose Sight of our Squadron in a Gale of Wind. Dreadful Storm. Ship
+  strikes.
+
+<p><a href="#ch2"><b><i>Chapter II.</i></b></a></p>
+
+<p>We land on a wild Shore. No Appearance of Inhabitants. One of our
+  Lieutenants dies. Conduct of a Part of the Crew who remained on the
+  Wreck. We name the Place of our Residence Mount Misery. Narrative of
+  Transactions there. Indians appear in Canoes off the Coast. Description
+  of them. Discontents amongst our People.
+
+<p><a href="#ch3"><b><i>Chapter III.</i></b></a></p>
+
+<p>Unfortunate Death of Mr Cozens. Improper Conduct of Captain Cheap.
+  The Indians join us in a friendly Manner, but depart presently on
+  account of the Misconduct of our Men. Our Number dreadfully reduced by
+  Famine. Description of the various Contrivances used for procuring Food.
+  Further Transactions. Departure from the Island.
+
+<p><a href="#ch4"><b><i>Chapter IV.</i></b></a></p>
+
+<p>Occurrences on our Voyage. We encounter bad Weather and various
+  Dangers and Distresses. Leave a Part of our Crew behind on a desert
+  Shore. A strange Cemetry discovered. Narrow Escape from Wreck. Return to
+  Mount Misery. We are visited by a Chanos Indian Cacique, who talks
+  Spanish, with whom we again take our Departure from the Island.
+
+<p><a href="#ch5"><b><i>Chapter V.</i></b></a></p>
+
+<p>Navigation of the River. One of our Men dies from Fatigue. Inhumanity
+  of the Captain. Description of our Passage through a horrible and
+  desolate Country. Our Conductor leaves us, and a Party of our Men desert
+  with the Boat. Dreadful Situation of the Remainder. The Cacique returns.
+  Account of our Journey Overland. Kindness of two Indian Women.
+  Description of the Indian Mode of Fishing. Cruel Treatment of my Indian
+  Benefactress by her Husband.
+
+<p><a href="#ch6"><b><i>Chapter VI.</i></b></a></p>
+
+<p>The Cacique's Conduct changes. Description of the Indian Mode of
+  Bird-fowling. Their Religion. Mr Elliot, our Surgeon, dies. Transactions
+  on our Journey. Miserable Situation to which we are reduced.
+
+<p><a href="#ch7"><b><i>Chapter VII.</i></b></a></p>
+
+<p>We land on the Island of Chiloe. To our great Joy we at length
+  discover Something having the Appearance of a House. Kindness of the
+  Natives. We are delivered to the Custody of a Spanish Guard.
+  Transactions with the Spanish Residents. Arrival at Chaco. Manners of
+  the Inhabitants.
+
+<p><a href="#ch8"><b><i>Chapter VIII.</i></b></a></p>
+
+<p>Adventure with the Niece of an old Priest at Castro. Superstition
+  of the People. The Lima Ship arrives, in which we depart for Valparaiso,
+  January 1743. Arrival at and Treatment there. Journey to Chili. Arrival
+  at St. Jago. Generous Conduct of a Scotch Physician. Description of the
+  City and of the People.
+
+<p><a href="#ch9"><b><i>Chapter IX.</i></b></a></p>
+
+<p>Account of the Bull Feasts and other Amusements. Occurrences during
+  nearly two Years Residence. In December, 1744, we embark for Europe in
+  the Lys French Frigate. The Vessel leaky. Dangerous Voyage. Narrow
+  Escape from English Cruizers. Arrival in England. Conclusion
+
+<p><a href="#appendix2"><b><i>APPENDIX, No. II. BULKELEY'S NARRATIVE.</i></b></a></p>
+
+<hr align="center" width="50%">
+
+<h2>A GENERAL HISTORY AND COLLECTION OF VOYAGES AND TRAVELS.</h2>
+
+<hr align="center" width="25%">
+
+<h2><a name="part3" id="part3">PART III.</a></h2>
+
+<h2><a name="book3-3" id="book3-3">BOOK III.--continued</a></h2>
+
+<hr align="center" width="25%">
+
+<h2><a name="chapter5" id="chapter5">CHAPTER V.--Continued.</a></h2>
+
+<p>CAPTAIN KING'S JOURNAL OF THE TRANSACTIONS ON RETURNING TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
+
+<p>SECTION VI.
+
+<p>General Account of the Sandwich Islands.--Their Number, Names, and
+Situation.--OWHYHEE.--Its Extent, and Division into Districts.--Account of
+its Coasts, and the adjacent Country.--Volcanic Appearances.--Snowy
+Mountains.--Their Height determined.--Account of a Journey into the
+Interior Parts of the Country.--MOWEE.--TAHOOROWA.--MOROTOI.--RANAI.--
+WOAHOO.--ATOOI.--ONEEHEOW.--OBEEHOUA.--TAHOORA.--Climate.--Winds.--
+Currents.--Tides.--Animals and Vegetables.--Astronomical
+Observations.[1]
+
+<blockquote>[1] The general account of the Sandwich Islands given by Captain King, has
+been substantially confirmed by subsequent voyagers. Some additional
+particulars, not by any means very important, have resulted from their
+enquiries, from which, of course, it had been easy to have enlarged
+the present and two following sections, by supplementary notes. But no
+good end would be answered by such a practice in the present case, as
+the description in the text is abundantly complete for every important
+purpose, and as it is probable, that, in the course of this work,
+there will occur opportunities of communicating whatever is valuable
+in the narratives of more recent voyagers.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>As we are now about to take our final leave of the Sandwich Islands, it
+will not be improper to introduce here some general account of their
+situation and natural history, and of the manners and customs of the
+inhabitants.
+
+<p>This subject has indeed been, in some measure, preoccupied by persons far
+more capable of doing it justice than I can pretend to be. Had Captain Cook
+and Mr Anderson lived to avail themselves of the advantages which we
+enjoyed by a return to these islands, it cannot be questioned, that the
+public would have derived much additional information from the skill and
+diligence of two such accurate observers. The reader will therefore lament
+with me our common misfortune, which hath deprived him of the labours of
+such superior abilities, and imposed on me the task of presenting him with
+the best supplementary account the various duties of my station permitted
+me to furnish.
+
+<p>This group consists of eleven islands, extending in latitude from 18° 54'
+to 22° 15' N., and in longitude from 199° 36' to 205° 06' E. They are
+called by the natives, 1. Owhyhee. 2. Mowee. 3. Ranai, or Oranai. 4.
+Morotinnee, or Morokinnee. 5. Kahowrowee, or Tahoorowa. 6. Morotoi, or
+Morokoi. 7. Woahoo, or Oahoo. 8. Atooi, Atowi, or Towi, and sometimes
+Kowi.[2] 9. Neeheehow, or Oneeheow. 10. Oreehona, or Reehoua; and, 11.
+Tahoora; and are all inhabited, excepting Morotinnee and Tahoora. Besides
+the islands above enumerated, we were told by the Indians, that there is
+another called Modoopapapa,[3] or Komodoopapapa, lying to the W.S.W. of
+Tahoora, which is low and sandy, and visited only for the purpose of
+catching turtle and sea-fowl; and, as I could never learn that they knew of
+any others, it is probable that none exist in their neighbourhood.
+
+<blockquote>[2] It is to be observed, that, among the windward islands, the <i>k</i> is
+used instead of the <i>t</i>, as <i>Morokoi</i> instead of
+<i>Morotoi</i>, &amp;c.</blockquote>
+
+<blockquote>[3] <i>Modoo</i> signifies island; <i>papapa</i>, flat. This island is
+called <i>Tammatapappa</i> by Captain Cook.</blockquote>
+
+<p>They were named by Captain Cook the <i>Sandwich Islands</i>, in honour of
+the EARL OF SANDWICH, under whose administration he had enriched geography
+with so many splendid and important discoveries; a tribute justly due to
+that noble person for the liberal support these voyages derived from his
+power, in whatever could extend their utility, or promote their success;
+for the zeal with which he seconded the views of that great navigator; and,
+if I may be allowed to add the voice of private gratitude, for the generous
+protection, which, since the death of their unfortunate commander, he has
+afforded all the officers that served under him.
+
+<p>Owhyhee, the easternmost, and by much the largest of these islands, is of a
+triangular shape, and nearly equilateral. The angular points make the
+north, east, and south extremities, of which the northern is in latitude
+20° 17' N., longitude 204° 02' E.; the eastern in latitude 19° 34' N.,
+longitude 205° 06' E.; and the southern extremity in latitude 18° 54' N.,
+longitude 204° 15' E. Its greatest length, which lies in a direction nearly
+north and south, is 23-1/2 leagues; its breadth is 24 leagues; and it is
+about 255 geographical, or 293 English miles in circumference. The whole
+island is divided into six large districts; Amakooa and Aheedoo, which lie
+on the north-east side; Apoona and Kaoo on the south-east; Akona and
+Koaarra on the west.
+
+<p>The districts of Amakooa and Aheedoo are separated by a mountain called
+Mounah Kaah (or the mountain Kaah), which rises in three peaks, perpetually
+covered with snow, and may be clearly seen at 40 leagues distance.
+
+<p>To the north of this mountain the coast consists of high and abrupt cliffs,
+down which fall many beautiful cascades of water. We were once flattered
+with the hopes of meeting with a harbour round a bluff head, in latitude
+20° 10' N., and longitude 204° 26' E.; but, on doubling the point, and
+standing close in, we found it connected by a low valley, with another high
+head to the north-west. The country rises inland with a gentle ascent, is
+intersected by deep narrow glens, or rather chasms, and appeared to be well
+cultivated and sprinkled over with a number of villages. The snowy mountain
+is very steep, and the lower part of it covered with wood.
+
+<p>The coast of Aheedoo, which lies to the south of Mouna Kaah, is of a
+moderate height, and the interior parts appear more even than the country
+to the north-west, and less broken by ravines. Off these two districts we
+cruised for almost a month; and, whenever our distance from shore would
+permit it, were sure of being surrounded by canoes laden with all kinds of
+refreshments. We had frequently a very heavy sea, and great swell on this
+side of the island; and as we had no soundings, and could observe much foul
+ground off the shore, we never approached nearer the land than two or three
+leagues, excepting on the occasion already mentioned.
+
+<p>The coast to the north-east of Apoona, which forms the eastern extremity of
+the island, is low and flat; the acclivity of the inland parts is very
+gradual, and the whole country covered with cocoa-nut and bread-fruit
+trees. This, as far as we could judge, is the finest part of the island,
+and we were afterward told that the king had a place of residence here. At
+the south-west extremity the hills rise abruptly from the sea side, leaving
+but a narrow border of low ground toward the beach. We were pretty near the
+shore at this part of the island, and found the sides of the hills covered
+with a fine verdure; but the country seemed to be very thinly inhabited. On
+doubling the east point of the island, we came in sight of another snowy
+mountain, called Mouna Roa (or the extensive mountain), which continued to
+be a very conspicuous object all the while we were sailing along the south-
+east side. It is flat at the top, making what is called by mariners table-
+land; the summit was constantly buried in snow, and we once saw its sides
+also slightly covered for a considerable way down; but the greatest part of
+this disappeared again in a few days.
+
+<p>According to the tropical line of snow, as determined by Mr. Condamine,
+from observations taken on the Cordilleras, this mountain must be at least
+16,020 feet high, which exceeds the height of the Pico de Teyde, or Peak of
+Teneriffe, by 724 feet, according to Dr. Heberden's computation, or 3,680,
+according to that of the Chevalier de Borda. The peaks of Mouna Kaah
+appeared to be about half a mile high; and as they are entirely covered
+with snow, the altitude of their summits cannot be less than 18,400 feet.
+But it is probable that both these mountains may be considerably higher.
+For in insular situations, the effects of the warm sea air must necessarily
+remove the line of snow in equal latitudes, to a greater height than where
+the atmosphere is chilled on all sides by an immense tract of perpetual
+snow.
+
+<p>The coast of Kaoo presents a prospect of the most horrid and dreary kind;
+the whole country appearing to have undergone a total change from the
+effects of some dreadful convulsion. The ground is every where covered with
+cinders, and intersected in many places with black streaks, which seem to
+mark the course of a lava that has flowed, not many ages back, from the
+mountain Roa to the shore. The southern promontory looks like the mere
+dregs of a volcano. The projecting head-land is composed of broken and
+craggy rocks, piled irregularly on one another, and terminating in sharp
+points.
+
+<p>Notwithstanding the dismal aspect of this part of the island, there are
+many villages scattered over it, and it certainly is much more populous
+than the verdant mountains of Apoona. Nor is this circumstance hard to be
+accounted for. As these islanders have no cattle, they have consequently no
+use for pasturage, and therefore naturally prefer such ground as either
+lies more convenient for fishing, or is best suited to the cultivation of
+yams and plantains. Now amidst these ruins, there are many patches of rich
+soil, which are carefully laid out in plantations, and the neighbouring sea
+abounds with a variety of most excellent fish, with which, as well as with
+other provisions, we were always plentifully supplied. Off this part of the
+coast we could find no ground, at less than a cable's length from the
+shore, with a hundred and sixty fathoms of line, excepting in a small bight
+to the eastward of the south point, where we had regular soundings of fifty
+and fifty-eight fathoms over a bottom of fine sand. Before we proceed to
+the western districts, it may be necessary to remark, that the whole east
+side of the island, from the northern to the southern extremity, does not
+afford the smallest harbour or shelter for shipping.
+
+<p>The south-west parts of Akona are in the same state with the adjoining
+district of Kaoo; but farther to the north, the country has been cultivated
+with great pains, and is extremely populous.
+
+<p>In this part of the island is situated Karakakooa Bay, which has been
+already described. Along the coast nothing is seen but large masses of
+slag, and the fragments of black scorched rocks; behind which, the ground
+rises gradually for about two miles and a half, and appears to have been
+formerly covered with loose burnt stones. These the natives have taken the
+pains of clearing away, frequently to the depth of three feet and upward;
+which labour, great as it is, the fertility of the soil amply repays. Here
+in a rich ashy mould, they cultivate sweet potatoes and the cloth-plant.
+The fields are enclosed with stone-fences, and are interspersed with groves
+of cocoa-nut trees. On the rising ground beyond these, the bread-fruit
+trees are planted, and flourish with the greatest luxuriance.
+
+<p>Koaara extends from the westernmost point to the northern extremity of the
+island; the whole coast between them forming an extensive bay, called Toe-
+yah-yah, which is bounded to the north by two very conspicuous hills.
+Toward the bottom of this bay there is foul corally ground, extending
+upward of a mile from the shore, without which the soundings are regular,
+with good anchorage, in twenty fathoms. The country, as far as the eye
+could reach, seemed fruitful and well inhabited, the soil being in
+appearance of the same kind with the district of Kaoo; but no fresh water
+is to be got here.
+
+<p>I have hitherto confined myself to the coasts of this island, and the
+adjacent country, which is all that I had an opportunity of being
+acquainted with from my own observation. The only account I can give of the
+interior parts, is from the information I obtained from a party, who set
+out on the afternoon of the 26th of January, on an expedition up the
+country, with an intention of penetrating as far as they could; and
+principally of reaching, if possible, the snowy mountains.
+
+<p>Having procured two natives to serve them as guides, they left the village
+about four o'clock in the afternoon, directing their course a little to the
+southward of the east. To the distance of three or four miles from the bay,
+they found the country as before described; the hills afterward rose with a
+more sudden ascent, which brought them to the extensive plantations that
+terminate the view of the country, as seen from the ships.
+
+<p>These plantations consist of the tarrow[4], or eddy root, and the sweet
+potatoe, with plants of the cloth tree, neatly set out in rows. The walls
+that separate them are made of the loose burnt stones, which are got in
+clearing the ground; and being entirely concealed by sugar-canes, planted
+close on each side, make the most beautiful fences that can be conceived.
+The party stopped for the night at the second hut they found amongst the
+plantations, where they judged themselves to be about six or seven miles
+from the ships. They described the prospect from this spot as very
+delightful; they saw the ships in the bay before them; to the left a
+continued range of villages, interspersed with groves of cocoa-nut trees,
+spreading along the sea-shore; a thick wood stretching out of sight behind
+them; and to the right an extent of ground, laid out in regular and well-
+cultivated plantations, as far as the eye could reach.
+
+<blockquote>[4] Both the sweet potatoes, and the tarrow, are here planted four feet
+from each other; the former was earthed up almost to the top of the
+stalk, with about half a bushel of light mould; the latter is left
+bare to the root, and the mould round it is made in the form of a
+basin, in order to hold the rain-water, as this root requires a
+certain degree of moisture. It has been before observed, that the
+tarrow, at the Friendly and Society Islands, was always planted in low
+and moist situations, and generally where there was the convenience of
+a rivulet to flood it. It was imagined that this mode of culture was
+absolutely necessary; but we now found, that, with the precaution
+above-mentioned, it succeeds equally well in a drier situation;
+indeed, we all remarked, that the tarrow of the Sandwich Islands is
+the best we had ever tasted. The plantains are not admitted in these
+plantations: but grow amongst the bread-fruit trees.</blockquote>
+
+<p>Near this spot, at a distance from any other dwelling, the natives pointed
+out to them the residence of a hermit, who, they said, had formerly been a
+great chief and warrior, but had long ago quitted the shores of the island,
+and now never stirred from his cottage. They prostrated themselves as they
+approached him, and afterward presented to him a part of such provisions as
+they had brought with them. His behaviour was easy and cheerful; he scarce
+shewed any marks of astonishment at the sight of our people, and though
+pressed to accept some of our curiosities, he declined the offer, and soon
+withdrew to his cottage. He was described as by far the oldest person any
+of the party had ever seen, and judged to be, by those who computed his age
+at the lowest, upward of 100 years old.
+
+<p>As our people had imagined the mountain not to be more than ten or twelve
+miles from the bay, and consequently that they should reach it with ease
+early the next morning, an error into which its great height had probably
+led them, they were now much surprised to find the distance scarce
+perceptibly diminished. This circumstance, together with the uninhabited
+state of the country they were going to enter, made it necessary to procure
+a supply of provisions; and for that purpose they dispatched one of their
+guides back to the village. Whilst they were waiting his return, they were
+joined by some of Kaoo's servants, whom that benevolent old man had sent
+after them, as soon as he heard of their journey, laden with refreshments,
+and authorised, as their route lay through his grounds, to demand and take
+away whatever they might have occasion for.
+
+<p>Our travellers were much astonished to find the cold here so intense; but
+having no thermometer with them, could judge of it only by their feelings,
+which, from the warm atmosphere they had left, must have been a very
+fallacious measure. They found it, however, so cold, that they could get
+but little sleep, and the natives none at all; both parties being
+disturbed, the whole night, by continued coughing. As they could not, at
+this time, be at any very considerable height, the distance from the sea
+being only six or seven miles, and part of the road on a very moderate
+ascent, this extraordinary degree of cold must be ascribed to the easterly
+wind blowing fresh over the snowy mountains.
+
+<p>Early on the 27th they set out again, and filled their calibashes at an
+excellent well about half a mile from their hut. Having passed the
+plantations, they came to a thick wood, which they entered by a path made
+for the convenience of the natives, who go thither to fetch the wild or
+horse-plantain, and to catch birds. Their progress now became very slow,
+and attended with much labour; the ground being either swampy, or covered
+with large stones; the path narrow, and frequently interrupted by trees
+lying across it, which it was necessary to climb over, the thickness of the
+underwood on both sides making it impossible to pass round them. In these
+woods they observed, at small distances, pieces of white cloth fixed on
+poles, which they supposed to be land-marks for the division of property,
+as they only met with them where the wild plantains grew. The trees, which
+are of the same kind with those we called the spice-tree at New Holland,
+were lofty and straight, and from two to four feet in circumference.
+
+<p>After they had advanced about ten miles in the wood, they had the
+mortification to find themselves, on a sudden, within sight of the sea, and
+at no great distance from it; the path having turned imperceptibly to the
+southward, and carried them to the right of the mountain, which it was
+their object to reach. Their disappointment was greatly increased by the
+uncertainty they were now under of its true bearings, since they could not,
+at this time, get a view of it from the top of the highest trees. They,
+therefore, found themselves obliged to walk back six or seven miles to an
+unoccupied hut, where they had left three of the natives and two of their
+own people, with the small stock that remained of their provisions. Here
+they spent the second night; and the air was so very sharp, and so little
+to the liking of their guides, that, by the morning, they had all departed,
+except one.
+
+<p>The want of provisions now making it necessary to return to some of the
+cultivated parts of the island, they quitted the wood by the same path they
+had entered it; and, on their arrival at the plantations, were surrounded
+by the natives, of whom they purchased a fresh stock of necessaries; and
+prevailed upon two of them to supply the place of the guides that were gone
+away. Having obtained the best information in their power, with regard to
+the direction of their road, the party, being now nine in number, marched
+along the skirts of the wood for six or seven miles, and then entered it
+again by a path that bore to the eastward. For the first three miles they
+passed through a forest of lofty spice-trees, growing on a strong rich
+loam; at the back of which they found an equal extent of low shrubby trees,
+with much thick underwood, on a bottom of loose burnt stones. This led them
+to a second forest of spice-trees, and the same rich brown soil, which was
+again succeeded by a barren ridge of the same nature with the former. This
+alternate succession may, perhaps, afford matter of curious speculation to
+naturalists. The only additional circumstance I could learn relating to it
+was, that these ridges appeared, as far as they could be seen, to run in
+directions parallel to the sea-shore, and to have Mouna Roa for their
+centre.
+
+<p>In passing through the woods they found many canoes half-finished, and here
+and there a hut; but saw none of the inhabitants. Having penetrated near
+three miles into the second wood, they came to two huts, where they
+stopped, exceedingly fatigued with the day's journey, having walked not
+less than twenty miles, according to their own computation. As they had met
+with no springs, from the time they left the plantation-ground, and began
+to suffer much from the violence of their thirst, they were obliged, before
+the night came on, to separate into parties, and go in search of water;
+and, at last, found some left by rain in the bottom of an unfinished canoe,
+which, though of the colour of red wine, was to them no unwelcome
+discovery. In the night, the cold was still more intense than they had
+found it before; and though they had wrapped themselves up in mats and
+cloths of the country, and kept a large fire between the two huts, they
+could yet sleep but very little, and were obliged to walk about the
+greatest part of the night. Their elevation was now probably pretty
+considerable, as the ground on which they had travelled had been generally
+on the ascent.
+
+<p>On the 29th, at day-break, they set out, intending to make their last and
+utmost effort to reach the snowy mountain; but their spirits were much
+depressed, when they found they had expended the miserable pittance of
+water they had found the night before. The path, which extended no farther
+than where canoes had been built, was now at an end; and they were
+therefore obliged to make their way as well as they could; every now and
+then climbing up into the highest trees, to explore the country round. At
+eleven o'clock, they came to a ridge of burnt stones, from the top of which
+they saw the snowy mountain, appearing to be about twelve or fourteen miles
+from them.
+
+<p>It was here deliberated, whether they should proceed any further, or rest
+satisfied with the view they now had of Mouna Rao. The road, ever since the
+path ceased, had become exceedingly fatiguing; and every step they advanced
+was growing still more so. The deep chinks, with which the ground was every
+where broken, being slightly covered with moss, made them stumble at almost
+every step; and the intermediate space was a surface of loose burnt stones,
+which broke under their feet like potsherds. They threw stones into several
+of these chinks, which, by the noise they made, seemed to fall to a
+considerable depth, and the ground sounded hollow under their feet. Besides
+these discouraging circumstances, they found their guides so averse to
+going on, that they believed, whatever their own determinations might have
+been, they could not have prevailed on them to remain out another night.
+They therefore at last agreed to return to the ships, after taking a view
+of the country, from the highest trees which the place afforded. From this
+elevation they saw themselves surrounded, on all sides, with wood toward
+the sea; they could not distinguish, in the horizon, the sky from the
+water; and between them and the snowy mountain, was a valley about seven or
+eight miles broad, above which the mountain appeared only as a hill of a
+moderate size.
+
+<p>They rested this night at a hut in the second wood, and, on the 30th,
+before noon, they had got clear of the first, and found themselves about
+nine miles to the north-east of the ships, toward which they directed their
+march through the plantations. As they passed along, they did not observe a
+single spot of ground that was capable of improvement left unplanted; and
+indeed it appeared, from their account, hardly possible for the country to
+be cultivated to greater advantage for the purposes of the inhabitants, or
+made to yield them a larger supply of necessaries for their subsistence.
+They were surprised to meet with several fields of hay; and, on enquiring
+to what uses it was applied, were told, it was designed to cover the young
+tarrow grounds, in, order to preserve them from being scorched by the sun.
+They saw a few scattered huts amongst the plantations, which served for
+occasional shelter to the labourers; but no villages at a greater distance
+than four or five miles from the sea. Near one of them, about four miles
+from the bay, they found a cave, forty fathoms long, three broad, and of
+the same height. It was open at both ends; the sides were fluted, as if
+wrought with a chisel, and the surface glazed over, probably by the action
+of fire.
+
+<p>Having given this account of the most material circumstances that occurred
+on the expedition to the snowy mountain, I shall now return to the other
+islands that remain to be described.
+
+<p>The island next in size and nearest in situation to Owhyhee, is Mowee,
+which lies at the distance of eight leagues N.N.W. from the, former, and is
+one hundred and forty geographical miles in circumference. A low isthmus
+divides it into two circular peninsulas, of which that to the east is
+called Whamadooa, and is double the size of the western peninsula called
+Owhyrookoo. The mountains in both rise to an exceeding great height, having
+been seen by us at the distance of upward of thirty leagues. The northern
+shores, like those of Owhyhee, afford no soundings; and the country
+presents the same appearance of verdure and fertility. To the south-east,
+between this and the adjacent isles, we had regular depths with a hundred
+and fifty fathoms, with a sandy bottom. From the west point, which is low,
+runs a shoal, stretching out toward Ranai, to a considerable distance; and
+to the southward of this is a fine spacious bay, with a sandy beach, shaded
+with cocoa-nut trees. It is probable that good anchorage might be found
+here, with shelter from the prevailing winds, and that the beach affords a
+convenient place for landing. The country behind presents a most romantic
+appearance. The hills rise almost perpendicularly, in a great variety of
+peaked forms; and their steep sides, and the deep chasms between them, are
+covered with trees, amongst which those of the bread-fruit were observed
+particularly to abound. The tops of these hills are entirely bare, and of a
+reddish brown colour. We were informed by the natives that there is a
+harbour to the southward of the east point, which they affirmed to be
+superior to that of Karakakooa; and we were also told, that, on the north-
+west side, there was another harbour, called Keepookeepoo.
+
+<p>Tahoorowa is a small island lying off the S.W. part of Mowee, from which it
+is distant three leagues. This island is destitute of wood, and the soil
+seems to be sandy and barren. Between Tahowrowa and Mowee lies the small
+uninhabited island Morrotinnee.
+
+<p>Morotoi is only two leagues and a half from Mowee to the W.N.W. The south-
+western coast, which was the only part near which we approached, is very
+low, but the land rises backward to a considerable height; and, at the
+distance from which we saw it, appeared to be entirely without wood. Its
+produce, we are told, consists chiefly of yams. It may, probably, have
+fresh water, and on the south and west sides, the coast forms several bays
+that promise good shelter from the trade-winds.
+
+<p>Ranai is about three leagues distant from Mowee and Morotoi, and lies to
+the S.W. of the passage between these islands. The country to the S. is
+high and craggy; but the other parts of the island had a better aspect, and
+appeared to be well inhabited. We were told that it produces very few
+plantains and bread-fruit trees; but that it abounds in roots, such as
+yams, sweet potatoes, and tarrow.
+
+<p>Woahoo lies to the N.W. of Morotoi, at the distance of about seven leagues.
+As far as we could judge from the appearance of the N.E. and N.W. parts,
+(for we saw nothing of the southern side,) it is by far the finest island
+of the whole group. Nothing can exceed the verdure of the hills, the
+variety of wood and lawn, and rich cultivated vallies, which the whole face
+of the country displayed. Having already given a description of the bay,
+formed by the N. and W. extremities, in which we came to an anchor, I have
+only to observe, that in the bight of the bay, to the S. of the anchoring-
+place, we found rocky foul ground, two miles from the shore. Should the
+ground tackling of a ship be weak, and the wind blow strong from the N., to
+which quarter the road is entirely open, this circumstance might be
+attended with some danger; but with good cables there would be little risk,
+as the ground from the anchoring-place, which is opposite to the valley
+through which the river runs to the N. point, is a fine sand.
+
+<p>Atooi lies to the N.W. of Woahoo, and is distant from it about twenty-five
+leagues. The face of the country to the N.E. and N.W., is broken and
+ragged, but to the S. it is more even; the hills rise with a gentle slope
+from the seaside, and, at some distance back, are covered with wood. Its
+productions are the same with those of the other islands; but the
+inhabitants far surpass all the neighbouring islanders in the management of
+their plantations. In the low grounds, adjoining to the bay where we lay at
+anchor, these plantations were divided by deep and regular ditches; the
+fences were made with a neatness approaching to elegance, and the roads
+through them were thrown up and finished in a manner that would have done
+credit to any European engineer.
+
+<p>Oneeheow lies five leagues to the westward of Atooi. The eastern coast is
+high, and rises abruptly from the sea, but the rest of the island consists
+of low ground, excepting a round bluff head on the S.E. point. It produces
+abundance of yams, and of the sweet root called <i>Tee</i>, but we got from
+it no other sort of provisions.
+
+<p>Oreehow aad Tahoora are two small islands in the neighbourhood of Oneeheow.
+The former is a single high hummock, joined by a reef of coral rocks to the
+northern extremity of Oneeheow. The latter lies to the S.W., and is
+uninhabited.
+
+<p>The climate of the Sandwich islands differs very little from that of the
+West India islands, which lie in the same latitude. Upon the whole,
+perhaps, it may be rather more temperate. The thermometer on shore in
+Karakakooa Bay, never rose higher than 88°, and that but one day; its mean
+height at noon was 83°. In Wymoa Bay, its mean height at noon was 76°, and
+when out at sea 75°. The mean height of the thermometer at noon, in
+Jamaica, is about 86°, at sea 80°.
+
+<p>Whether they be subject to the same violent winds and hurricanes, we could
+not discover, as we were not there in, any of the stormy months. However,
+as the natives gave us no positive testimony of the fact, and no traces of
+their effects were any where visible, it is probable that, in this respect,
+they resemble the Society and Friendly islands, which are, in a great
+measure, free from these dreadful visitations.
+
+<p>During the four winter months that we remained amongst these islands, there
+was more rain, especially in the interior parts, than usually falls during
+the dry season in the islands of the West Indies. We generally saw clouds
+collecting round the tops of the hills, and producing rain to leeward; but
+after they are separated from the land by the wind, they disperse and are
+lost, and others succeed in their place. This happened daily at Owhyhee;
+the mountainous parts being generally enveloped in a cloud; successive
+showers falling in the inland country, with fine weather, and a clear sky
+at the sea-shore.
+
+<p>The winds in general were from E.S.E. to N.E.; though they sometimes varied
+a few points each way to the N. and S, but these were light, and of short
+duration. In the harbour of Karakakooa we had a constant land and sea-
+breeze every day and night.
+
+<p>The currents seemed very uncertain, sometimes setting to windward, and at
+other times to leeward, without any regularity. They did not appear to be
+governed by the winds, nor any other cause that I can assign; they
+frequently set to windward against a fresh breeze.
+
+<p>The tides are very regular, flowing and ebbing six hours each. The flood
+comes from the eastward; and it is high water, at the full and change of
+the moon, forty-five minutes past three, apparent time. Their greatest rise
+is two feet seven inches; and we always observed the water to be four
+inches higher when the moon was above the horizon, than when it was below.
+
+<p>The quadrupeds in these, as in all the other islands that have been
+discovered in the South Sea, are confined to three sorts, dogs, hogs, and
+rats. The dogs are of the same species with those of Otaheite, having short
+crooked legs, long backs, and pricked ears. I did not observe any variety
+in them, except in their skins, some having long and rough hair, and others
+being quite smooth. They are about the size of a common turnspit,
+exceedingly sluggish in their nature, though perhaps this may be more owing
+to the manner in which they are treated, than to any natural disposition in
+them. They are in general fed and left to herd with the hogs; and I do not
+recollect one instance in which a dog was made a companion in the manner we
+do in Europe. Indeed the custom of eating them is an inseparable bar to
+their admission into society; and, as there are neither beasts of prey in
+the island, nor objects of chase, it is probable that the social qualities
+of the dog, its fidelity, attachment, and sagacity, will remain unknown to
+the natives.
+
+<p>The number of dogs in these islands did not appear to be nearly equal, in
+proportion, to those in Otaheite. But on the other hand, they abound much
+more in hogs; and the breed is of a larger and weightier kind. The supply
+of provisions of this kind which we got from them was really astonishing.
+We were near four months, either cruising off the coast, or in harbour at
+Owhyhee. During all this time, a large allowance of fresh pork was
+constantly served to both crews, so that our consumption was computed at
+about sixty puncheons of five hundred weight each. Besides this, and the
+incredible waste which, in the midst of such plenty, was not to be guarded
+against, sixty puncheons more were salted for sea-store. The greatest part
+of this supply was drawn from the island of Owhyhee alone, and yet we could
+not perceive that it was at all drained, or even that the abundance had any
+way decreased.
+
+<p>The birds of these islands are as beautiful as any we have seen during the
+voyage, and are numerous, though not various. There are four, which seem to
+belong to the <i>trochili</i>, or honey-suckers of Linnæus; one of which is
+something larger than a bullfinch; its colour is a fine glossy black, the
+rump, vent, and thighs, a deep yellow. It is called by the natives
+<i>hoohoo</i>. Another is of an exceedingly bright scarlet colour; the
+wings black, and edged with white, and the tail black; its native name is
+<i>eeeeve</i>. A third, which seems to be either a young bird, or a variety
+of the foregoing, is variegated with red, brown, and yellow. The fourth is
+entirely green, with a tinge of yellow, and is called <i>akaiearooa</i>.
+There is a species of thrush, with a grey breast, and a small bird of the
+flycatcher kind; a rail, with very short wings and no tail, which, on that
+account, we named <i>rallus ecaudatus</i>. Ravens are found here, but they
+are very scarce; their colour is dark-brown, inclining to black, and their
+note is different from the European. Here are two small birds, both of one
+<i>genus</i>, that are very common; one is red, and generally seen about
+the cocoa-nut trees, particularly when they are in flower, from whence it
+seems to derive great part of its subsistence, the other is green; the
+tongues of both are long and ciliated, or fringed at the tip. A bird with a
+yellow head, which, from the structure of its beak, we called a parroquet,
+is likewise very common. It however by no means belongs to that tribe, but
+greatly resembles the <i>lexia flavicans</i>, or yellowish cross-bill of
+Linnæus.
+
+<p>Here are also owls, plovers of two sorts, one very like the whistling
+plover of Europe; a large white pigeon; a bird with a long tail, whose
+colour is black, the vent and feathers under the wing (which is much longer
+than is usually seen in the generality of birds, except the birds of
+paradise) are yellow; and the common water or darker hen.
+
+<p>Their vegetable productions are nearly the same with the rest of the South
+Sea islands. I have before mentioned. that the <i>tarrow</i> root is much
+superior to any we had before tasted, and that we attributed this
+excellence to the dry method of cultivating it. The bread-fruit trees
+thrive here, not in such abundance, but produce double the quantity of
+fruit they do on the rich plains of Otaheite. The trees are nearly of the
+same height, but the branches begin to strike out from the trunk much
+lower, and with greater luxuriance. Their sugar-canes are also of a very
+unusual size. One of them was brought to us at Atooi, measuring eleven
+inches and a quarter in circumference, and having fourteen feet eatable.
+
+<p>At Oneeheow they brought us several large roots of a brown colour, shaped
+like a yam, and from six to ten pounds in weight. The juice, which it
+yields in great abundance, is very sweet, and of a pleasant taste, and was
+found to be an excellent substitute for sugar. The natives are very fond of
+it, and use it as an article of their common diet; and our people also
+found it very palatable and wholesome. We could not learn to what species
+of plant it belonged, having never been able to procure the leaves; but it
+was supposed, by our botanists, to be the root of some kind of fern.
+
+<p>Agreeably to the practice of Captain Cook, I shall subjoin an abstract of
+the astronomical observations which were made at the observatory in
+Karakakooa Bay, for determining its latitude and longitude, and for finding
+the rate and error of the time-keeper. To these are subjoined the mean
+variation of the compass, the dip of the magnetic needle, and a table of
+the latitude and longitude of the Sandwich Islands.
+
+<pre>
+The latitude of the observatory, deduced
+  from meridian zenith distances of the
+  sun, eleven stars to the south, and four
+  stars to the north of the zenith             19° 28' 0" N.
+The longitude of the observatory, deduced
+  from 253 sets of lunar observations;
+  each set consisting of six observed
+  distances of the moon from the
+  sun or stars; 14 of the above sets were
+  only taken at the observatory, 105 sets
+  being taken whilst cruising off Owhyhee,
+  and 134 sets when at Atooi and
+  Oneeheow, all these being reduced to
+  the observatory, by means of the timekeeper  204° 0' 0" E.
+The longitude of the observatory, by the
+  time-keeper, on the 19th January,
+  1779, according to its rate, as found
+  at Greenwich                                   214° 7' 15' E.
+The longitude of the observatory, by the
+  time-keeper, on the 19th January,
+  1779, according to its rate, corrected
+  at different places, and last at Samganoodha
+  Harbour, in Oonalaschka                       203° 37' 22" E.
+The daily rate of the time-keeper losing
+  on mean time, was 9",6; and, on the
+  2d February, 1779, it was 14^h 41' 1"
+  too slow for mean time.
+The variation of the compass, by azimuths,
+  observed on shore with four
+  different compasses                             8   6   0  E.
+The variation of the compass, by azimuths,
+  observed on board the Resolution,
+  with four different compasses                   7  32   0  E.
+Dip of the north        /Balanced needle\        40  22  30  E.
+  pole of the magnetic |                 |
+  needle on            | Unbalanced, or  |
+  shore, with           \ plain needle  /        40  41  15  E.
+Dip of the north        /Balanced needle\        41  50   0  E.
+  pole of the magnetic |                 |
+  needle on            |  Unbalanced     |       40  30   5  E.
+  board, with           \   needle      /
+
+<i>A Table of the Latitude and Longitude of the Sandwich Islands</i>.
+
+                                  Latitude.   Longitude.
+         /The north point         20°   17'   204°    2'
+Owhyhee | South point             18    55    204    15
+        | East point              19    35    205     6
+         \Karakakooa Bay          19    28    204     0
+         /East point              20    50    204     4
+Mowee   < South point             20    34    203    48
+         \West point              20    54    203    24
+Morokinnee                        20    39    203    33
+Tahoorowa                         20    38    203    27
+Kanai. South point                20    46    203     8
+Morotoi. West point               21    10    202    46
+Woahoo. Anchoring-place.          21    43    202     9
+Atooi. Wymoa Bay                  21    57    200    20
+Oneeheow. Anchoring-place.        21    50    199    45
+Oreehoua                          22     2    199    52
+Tahoora                           21    43    199    56
+
+</pre>
+
+<p>SECTION VII.
+
+<p>General Account of the Sandwich Islands continued.--Of the Inhabitants.--
+Their Origin.--Persons.--Pernicious Effects of the Ava.--Numbers.--
+Disposition and Manners.--Reasons for supposing them not Cannibals.--Dress
+and Ornaments.--Villages and Houses.--Food.--Occupations and Amusements.--
+Addicted to Gaming.--Their extraordinary Dexterity in Swimming.--Arts and
+Manufactures.--Curious Specimens of their Sculpture.--Kipparee, or Method
+of Painting Cloth.--Mats.--Fishing Hooks.--Cordage.--Salt Pans.--Warlike
+Instruments.
+
+<p>The inhabitants of the Sandwich Islands are undoubtedly of the same race
+with those of New Zealand, the Society and Friendly Islands, Easter Island,
+and the Marquesas; a race that possesses, without any intermixture, all the
+known lands between the latitudes of 47° S. and 20° N., and between the
+longitudes of 184° and 260° E. This fact, which, extraordinary as it is,
+might be thought sufficiently proved by the striking similarity of their
+manners and customs, and the general resemblance of their persons, is
+established, beyond all controversy, by the absolute identity of their
+language.
+
+<p>From what continent they originally emigrated, and by what steps they have
+spread through so vast a space, those who are curious in disquisitions of
+this nature, may perhaps not find it very difficult to conjecture. It has
+been already observed, that they bear strong marks of affinity to some of
+the Indian tribes that inhabit the Ladrones and Caroline islands; and the
+same affinity may again be traced amongst the Battas and Malays. When these
+events happened, is not so easy to ascertain; it was probably not very
+lately, as they are extremely populous, and have no tradition of their own
+origin, but what is perfectly fabulous; whilst, on the other hand, the
+unadulterated state of their general language, and the similarity which
+still prevails in their customs and manners, seem to indicate that it could
+not have been at any very distant period.[5]
+
+<blockquote>[5] The nice and highly interesting subject now adverted to, it is evident,
+will require a very extensive and cautious enquiry, and cannot
+possibly be discussed in the small compass allotted to notes. See
+Forster's Observations. But additional information has been obtained
+since the time of that author.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The natives of these islands are in general above the middle size, and well
+made; they walk very gracefully, run nimbly, and are capable of bearing
+great fatigue; though, upon the whole, the men are somewhat inferior, in
+point of strength and activity, to the Friendly islanders, and the women
+less delicately limbed than those of Otaheite. Their complexion is rather
+darker than that of the Otaheitans, and they are not altogether so handsome
+a people. However, many of both sexes had fine open countenances, and the
+women, in particular, had good eyes and teeth, and a sweetness and
+sensibility of look, which rendered them very engaging. Their hair is of a
+brownish black, and neither uniformly straight, like that of the Indians of
+America, nor uniformly curling, as amongst the African negroes, but varying
+in this respect like the hair of Europeans. One striking peculiarity in the
+features of every part of this great nation, I do not remember to have seen
+any where mentioned; which is, that even in the handsomest faces, there is
+always a fulness of the nostrils, without any flatness or spreading of the
+nose, that distinguishes them from Europeans. It is not improbable that
+this may be the effect of their usual mode of salutation, which is
+performed by pressing the ends of their noses together.
+
+<p>The same superiority that is observable in the persons of the <i>Erees</i>,
+through all the other islands, is found also here. Those whom we saw were,
+without exception, perfectly well formed; whereas the lower sort, besides
+their general inferiority, are subject to all the variety of make and
+figure that is seen in the populace of other countries. Instances of
+deformity are more frequent here than in any of the other islands. Whilst
+we were cruising off Owhyhee, two dwarfs came on board, one an old man,
+four feet two inches high, but exactly proportioned, and the other a woman,
+nearly of the same height. We afterward saw three natives who were hump-
+backed, and a young man born without hands or feet. Squinting is also very
+common amongst them; and a man who, they said, had been born blind, was
+brought to us to be cured. Besides these particular imperfections, they
+are, in general, very subject to boils and ulcers, which we attributed to
+the great quantity of salt they eat with their flesh and fish. The <i>Erees</i>
+are very free from these complaints, but many of them suffer still more
+dreadful effects from the immoderate use of the <i>ava</i>. Those who were the
+most affected by it, had their bodies covered with a white scurf, their
+eyes red and inflamed, their limbs emaciated, the whole frame trembling and
+paralytic, accompanied with a disability to raise the head. Though this
+drug does not appear universally to shorten life, as was evident from the
+cases of Terreeoboo, Kaoo, and some other chiefs, who were very old men,
+yet it invariably brings on an early and decrepid old age. It is fortunate
+that the use of it is made one of the peculiar privileges of the chiefs.
+The young son of Terreeoboo, who was about twelve years old, used to boast
+of his being admitted to drink <i>ava</i>, and shewed us, with great triumph, a
+small spot in his side that was growing scaly.
+
+<p>There is something very singular in the history of this pernicious drug.
+When Captain Cook first visited the Society Islands, it was very little
+known among them. On his second voyage, he found the use of it very
+prevalent at Ulietea, but it had still gained very little ground at
+Otaheite. When we were last there, the dreadful havoc it had made was
+beyond belief, insomuch, that the captain scarce knew many of his old
+acquaintances. At the Friendly Islands, it is also constantly drunk by the
+chiefs, but so much diluted with water, that it does not appear to produce
+any bad effects. At Atooi, also, it is used with great moderation, and the
+chiefs are, in consequence, a much finer set of men there than in any of
+the neighbouring islands. We remarked, that, by discontinuing the use of
+this root, the noxious effects of it soon wore off. Our good friends,
+Kaireekeea and old Kaoo, were persuaded by us to refrain from it, and they
+recovered amazingly during the short time we afterward remained in the
+island.
+
+<p>It may be thought extremely difficult to form any probable conjectures
+respecting the population of islands, with many parts of which we are but
+imperfectly acquainted. There are, however, two circumstances that take
+away much of this objection; the first is, that the interior parts of the
+country are entirely uninhabited; so that, if the number of the inhabitants
+along the coast be known, the whole will be pretty accurately determined.
+The other is, that there are no towns of any considerable size; the
+habitations of the natives being pretty equally dispersed in small villages
+round all their coasts. It is on this ground that I shall venture at a
+rough calculation of the number of persons in this group of islands.
+
+<p>The bay of Karakakooa, in Owhyhee, is three miles in extent, and contains
+four villages of about eighty houses each, upon an average, in all three
+hundred and twenty; besides a number of straggling houses, which may make
+the whole amount to three hundred and fifty. From the frequent
+opportunities I had of informing myself on this head, I am convinced that
+six persons to a house is a very moderate allowance; so that, on this
+calculation, the country about the bay contains two thousand one hundred
+souls. To these may be added fifty families, or three hundred persons,
+which I conceive to be nearly the number employed in the interior parts of
+the country amongst their plantations, making in all two thousand four
+hundred. If, therefore, this number be applied to the whole extent of the
+coast round the island, deducting a quarter for the uninhabited parts, it
+will be found to contain one hundred and fifty thousand. By the same mode
+of calculation, the rest of the islands will be found to contain the
+following numbers:--
+
+<pre>
+Owhyhee                     150,000
+Mowee                        65,400
+Woahoo                       60,200
+Atooi                        54,000
+Moroloi                      36,000
+Oneeheow                     10,000
+Ranai                        20,400
+Preehoua                      4,000
+
+
+      Total of inhabitants  400,000
+</pre>
+
+<p>I am pretty confident, that in this calculation I have not exceeded the
+truth in the total amount. If we compare the numbers supposed to be in
+Owhyhee, with the population of Otaheite, as settled by Dr. Forster, this
+computation will be found very low. The proportion of coast in the latter
+island is to that of Owhyhee, only as one to three; the number of
+inhabitants at Otaheite he states to be one hundred and twenty-one thousand
+five hundred; though, according to his own principles, it should be double
+that amount. Again, if we compare it with the medium population of the
+countries in Europe, the proportion will be in favour of the latter nearly
+as two to one.[6]
+
+<blockquote>[6] There is good reason to imagine that most of the early voyagers into
+the South Sea, have exaggerated the numbers of the inhabitants in the
+various groups of islands they met with. The present calculation, most
+readers will believe, is beyond the truth. Certain however it is, that
+almost all the recent accounts are at variance with such astonishing
+estimates as were formerly made. But, on the other hand, Mr.
+Pinkerton's assertion, that "it is probable there are not above
+300,000 souls in all Australasia and Polynesia," (Geog. 3d ed. 2d vol.
+p. 172,) must appear so extraordinary when considered in opposition to
+them, as at once to convey the notion of a bold adventure. Yet even
+this admits of some degree of probability, from the account formerly
+given, of the immense decrease in the population of Otaheite.
+Altogether the subject is imperfectly understood, and labours under
+peculiar difficulties; we ought to listen with some hesitation,
+therefore, to all assertions respecting it.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>Notwithstanding the irreparable loss we suffered from the sudden resentment
+and violence of these people, yet, in justice to their general conduct, it
+must be acknowledged, that they are of the most mild and affectionate
+disposition; equally remote from the extreme levity and fickleness of the
+Otaheitans, and the distant gravity and reserve of the inhabitants of the
+Friendly Islands. They appear to live in the utmost harmony and friendship
+with one another. The women, who had children, were remarkable for their
+tender and constant attention to them; and the men would often lend their
+assistance in those domestic offices, with a willingness that does credit
+to their feelings.
+
+<p>It must however be observed, that they fall very short of the other
+islanders, in that best test of civilization, the respect paid to the
+women. Here they are not only deprived of the privilege of eating with the
+men, but the best sorts of food are <i>tabooed</i>, or forbidden them. They are
+not allowed to eat pork, turtle, several kinds of fish, and some species of
+the plantains; and we were told that a poor girl got a terrible beating for
+having eaten, on board our ship, one of these interdicted articles. In
+their domestic life, they appear to live almost entirely by themselves, and
+though we did not observe any instances of personal ill treatment, yet it
+was evident they had little regard or attention paid them.
+
+<p>The great hospitality and kindness with which we were received by them,
+have been already frequently remarked; and indeed they make the principal
+part of our transactions with them. Whenever we came on shore, there was a
+constant struggle who should be most forward in making us little presents,
+bringing refreshments, or shewing some other mark of their respect. The old
+people never failed of receiving us with tears of joy; seemed highly
+gratified with being allowed to touch us, and were constantly making
+comparisons between themselves and us, with the strongest marks of
+humility. The young women were not less kind and engaging, and till they
+found, notwithstanding our utmost endeavours to prevent it, that they had
+reason to repent of our acquaintance, attached themselves to us without the
+least reserve.
+
+<p>In justice however to the sex, it must be observed, that these ladies were
+probably all of the lower class of the people; for I am strongly inclined
+to believe, that excepting the few whose names are mentioned in the course
+of our narrative, we did not see any woman of rank during our stay amongst
+them.
+
+<p>Their natural capacity seems, in no respect, below the common standard of
+mankind. Their improvements in agriculture, and the perfection of their
+manufactures, are certainly adequate to the circumstances of their
+situation, and the natural advantages they enjoy. The eager curiosity with
+which they attended the armourer's forge, and the many expedients they had
+invented, even before we left the islands, for working the iron they had
+procured from us, into such forms as were best adapted to their purposes,
+were strong proofs of docility and ingenuity.
+
+<p>Our unfortunate friend, Kaneena, possessed a degree of judicious curiosity,
+and a quickness of conception, which was rarely met with amongst these
+people. He was very inquisitive after our customs and manners, asked after
+our king, the nature of our government, our numbers, the method of building
+our ships, our houses, the produce of our country, whether we had wars,
+with whom, and on what occasions, and in what manner they were carried on,
+who was our God, and many other questions of the same nature, which
+indicated an understanding of great comprehension.
+
+<p>We met with two instances of persons disordered in their minds; the one a
+man at Owhyhee, the other a woman at Oneeheow. It appeared, from the
+particular attention and respect paid to them, that the opinion of
+their being inspired by the Divinity, which obtains among most of the
+nations of the east, is also received here.
+
+<p>Though the custom of eating the bodies of their enemies be not known, by
+positive evidence, to exist in any of the South Sea islands, except New
+Zealand, yet it is extremely probable, that it was originally prevalent in
+them all. The sacrificing human victims, which seems evidently to be a
+relic of this horrid practice, still obtains universally amongst these
+islanders; and it is easy to conceive, why the New Zealanders should retain
+the repast, which was probably the last act of these shocking rites, longer
+than the rest of their, tribe, who were situated in more mild and fruitful
+climates. As the inhabitants of the Sandwich islands certainly bear a
+nearer resemblance to those of New Zealand, both in their persons and
+disposition, than to any other people of this family, so it was strongly
+suspected by Mr. Anderson, that, like them, they still continue to feast on
+human flesh. The evidence on which he founds this opinion, has been stated
+very fully in the tenth section of the third chapter; but, as I always
+entertained great doubts of the justice of his conclusions, it may not be
+improper to take this occasion of mentioning the grounds on which I venture
+to differ from him. With respect to the information derived from the
+natives themselves, I shall only observe, that great pains were taken, by
+almost every officer on board, to come at the knowledge of so curious a
+circumstance; and that except in the two instances mentioned by Mr.
+Anderson, we found them invariably denying the existence of any such custom
+amongst them. It must be allowed, that Mr. Anderson's knowledge of their
+language, which was superior to that of any other person in either ship,
+ought certainly to give his opinion great weight; at the same time, I must
+beg leave to remark, that being present when he examined the man who had
+the small piece of salted flesh wrapped in cloth, it struck me very
+forcibly, that the signs he made use of meant nothing more, than that it
+was intended to be eat, and that it was very pleasant or wholesome to the
+stomach. In this opinion I was confirmed, by a circumstance which came to
+our knowledge, after the death of my worthy and ingenious friend, viz. that
+almost every native of these islands carried about with him, either in his
+calibash, or wrapped up in a piece of cloth, and tied about his waist, a
+small piece of raw pork, pork, highly salted, which they considered as a
+great delicacy, and used now and then to taste of. With respect to the
+confusion the young lad was in, (for he was not more than sixteen or
+eighteen years of age,) no one could have been surprised at it, who had
+seen the eager and earnest manner in which Mr. Anderson questioned him.
+
+<p>The argument drawn from the instrument made with sharks' teeth, and which
+is nearly of the same form with those used at New Zealand for cutting up
+the bodies of their enemies, is much more difficult to controvert. I
+believe it to be an undoubted fact, that this knife, if it may be so
+called, is never used by them in cutting the flesh of other animals.
+However, as the custom of offering human sacrifices, and of burning the
+bodies of the slain, is still prevalent here, it is not improbable that the
+use of this instrument is retained in those ceremonies. Upon the whole, I
+am strongly inclined to think, and particularly from this last
+circumstance, that the horrid practice in question, has but lately ceased
+amongst these and other islands of the South Sea. Omai, when pressed on
+this subject, confessed that in the rage and fury of revenge, they would
+sometimes tear the flesh of their enemies that were slain with their teeth;
+but positively denied that they ever eat it. This was certainly approaching
+as near the fact as could be; but, on the other hand, the denial is a
+strong proof that the practice has actually ceased; since in New Zealand,
+where it still exists, the inhabitants neyer made the smallest scruple of
+confessing it.[7]
+
+<blockquote>[7] We have elsewhere had occasion to take notice of the fact of human
+sacrifices and cannibalism, forming an essential particular in the
+history of all the South Sea islanders. It is unnecessary to occupy a
+moment's attention in farther enquiry respecting it, as perhaps no
+question, in the circle of philosophical research, has received more
+complete solution by the testimony of credible witnesses. He that
+shall attempt to controvert their evidence, will have need of all the
+effrontery and invincibility to truth that ever stamped the forehead
+or hardened the heart of a polemist.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of these islands differ from those of the Friendly Isles,
+in suffering, almost universally, their beards to grow. There were indeed a
+few, amongst whom was the old king, that cut it off entirely; and others
+that wore it only upon the upper lip. The same variety, in the manner of
+wearing the hair, is also observable here, as among the other islanders of
+the South Sea; besides which, as far as we know, they have a fashion
+peculiar to themselves. They cut it close on each side the head, down to
+the ears, leaving a ridge of about a small hand's breadth, running from the
+forehead to the neck; which, when the hair is thick and curling, has the
+form of the crest of the ancient helmet. Others wear large quantities of
+false hair, flowing down their backs in long ringlets, like the figure of
+the inhabitants of Horn Island, as seen in Dalrymple's Voyages; and others,
+again, tie it into a single round bunch on the top of the head, almost as
+large as the head itself, and some into five or six distinct bunches. They
+daub their hair with a grey clay, mixed with powdered shells, which they
+keep in balls, and chew into a kind of soft paste, when they have occasion
+to make use of it. This keeps the hair smooth, and in time changes it to a
+pale yellow colour.
+
+<p>Both sexes wear necklaces, made of strings of small variegated shells; and
+an ornament, in the form of the handle of a cup, about two inches long, and
+half an inch broad, made of wood, stone, or ivory, finely polished, which
+is hung about the neck by fine threads of twisted hair, doubled sometimes
+an hundred fold. Instead of this ornament, some of them wear on their
+breast a small human figure made of bone, suspended in the same manner.
+
+<p>The fan, or fly-flap, is also an ornament used by both sexes. The most
+ordinary kind are made of the fibres of the cocoa-nut, tied loose in
+bunches to the top of a smooth polished handle. The tail-feathers of the
+cock, and of the tropic-bird, are also used in the same manner; but the
+most valuable are those which have the handle made of the arm or leg bones
+of an enemy slain in battle, and which are preserved with great care, and
+handed down from father to son, as trophies of inestimable value.
+
+<p>The custom of <i>tattowing</i> the body, they have in common with the rest of
+the natives of the South Sea islands; but it is only at New Zealand and the
+Sandwich Islands, that they <i>tattow</i> the face. There is also this
+difference between the two last, that in the former it is done in elegant
+spiral volutes, and in the latter in straight lines, crossing each, other
+at right angles. The hands and arms of the women are also very neatly
+marked, and they have a singular custom amongst them, the meaning of which
+we could never learn, that of <i>tallowing</i> the tip of the tongues of the
+females.
+
+<p>From some information we received, relative to the custom of <i>tattowing</i>,
+we were inclined to think, that it is frequently intended as a sign of
+mourning on the death of a chief, or any other calamitous event. For we
+were often, told, that such a particular mark was in memory of such a
+chief, and so of the rest. It may be here too observed, that the lowest
+class are often <i>tattowed</i> with a mark, that distinguishes them as the
+property of the several chiefs to whom they belong.[8]
+
+<blockquote>[8] Here, then, we have two reasons for the practice of tattowing, in
+addition to those which we enumerated in the account of Cook's first
+voyage, provided only that Captain King's information can he relied
+on. The first of these, it may be remarked, is so extremely similar to
+the practice of wounding or cutting the body for the dead, which has
+prevailed so extensively, that we can have no difficulty in allowing
+the full force of the observation. But, with respect to the second,
+one may incline to demur, on the ground of the improbability that such
+a state of servitude as it implies, could exist in so apparently
+primitive a condition of society. This, however, is not difficult of
+explanation, as the reader will find in the following section, from
+which one may safely infer, that the government of the Sandwich
+islands is by no means one which requires for its exhibition, the
+innocence, the liberty, and equality of the golden age. Some
+conclusion may hence be drawn as to the probable origin and antiquity
+of these islanders. But it is obvious that we are far from possessing
+sufficient data to enable us to enter satisfactorily on the discussion
+of the topic.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The dress of the men generally consists only of a piece of thick cloth
+called the <i>maro</i>, about ten or twelve inches broad, which they pass
+between the legs, and tie round the waist. This is the common dress of all
+ranks of people. Their mats, some of which are beautifully manufactured,
+are of various sizes, but mostly about five feet long and four broad. These
+they throw over their shoulders, and bring forward before; but they are
+seldom used, except in time of war, for which purpose they seem better
+adapted than for ordinary use, being of a thick and cumbersome texture, and
+capable of breaking the blow of a stone, or any blunt weapon. Their feet
+are generally bare, except when they have occasion to travel over the burnt
+stones, when they secure them with a sort of sandal, made of cords, twisted
+from the fibres of the cocoa-nut. Such is the ordinary dress of these
+islanders; but they have another, appropriated to their chiefs, and used on
+ceremonious occasions, consisting of a feathered cloak and helmet, which,
+in point of beauty and magnificence, is perhaps nearly equal to that of any
+nation in the world. As this dress has been already described with great
+accuracy and minuteness, I have only to add, that these cloaks are made of
+different lengths, in proportion to the rank of the wearer, some of them
+reaching no lower than the middle, others trailing on the ground. The
+inferior chiefs have also a short cloak, resembling the former, made of the
+long tail-feathers of the cock, the tropic and man-of-war birds, with a
+broad border of the small red and yellow feathers, and a collar of the
+same. Others again are made of feathers entirely white, with variegated
+borders. The helmet has a strong lining of wicker-work, capable of breaking
+the blow of any warlike instrument, and seems evidently designed for that
+purpose.
+
+<p>These feathered dresses seemed to be exceedingly scarce, appropriated to
+persons of the highest rank, and worn by the men only. During the whole
+time we lay in Karakakooa Bay, we never saw them used but on three
+occasions; in the curious ceremony of Terreeoboo's first visit to the
+ships; by some chiefs, who were seen among the crowd on shore when Captain
+Cook was killed, and afterward when Eappo brought his bones to us.
+
+<p>The exact resemblance between this habit, and the cloak and helmet formerly
+worn by the Spaniards, was too striking not to excite our curiosity to
+enquire, whether there were any probable grounds for supposing it to have
+been borrowed from them. After exerting every means in our power of
+obtaining information on this subject, we found that they had no immediate
+knowledge of any other nation whatever, nor any tradition remaining among
+them of these islands having been ever visited before by such ships as
+ours. But, notwithstanding the result of these enquiries, the uncommon form
+of this habit appears to me a sufficient proof of its European origin,
+especially when added to another circumstance, that it is a singular
+deviation from the general resemblance in dress, which prevails amongst all
+the branches of this tribe, dispersed through the South Sea. We were driven
+indeed, by this conclusion, to a supposition of the shipwreck of some
+Buccaneer, or Spanish ship, in the neighbourhood of these islands. But when
+it is recollected, that the course of the Spanish trade from Acapulco to
+the Manillas is but a few degrees to the southward of the Sandwich Islands
+in their passage out, and to the northward on their return, this
+supposition will not appear in the least improbable.[9]
+
+<blockquote>[9] Mr Playfair in his Geography, vol. vi. p. 839, asserts, that the
+Sandwich islands were first discovered by Gaetano, a Spanish
+navigator, in 1542; but he does not assign his authority, or give any
+clue for which the position may be verified. The fact is certainly
+probable, as Captain King seems to admit; and supposing it so, we can
+easily conceive that the distance of time from the period of the
+discovery above stated, would be quite sufficient to account for the
+natives having no tradition of such a visit. Even a much shorter
+period would be adequate for the total loss of almost any event in the
+current history of a people, who had no other method of preserving it
+than the impression it made on the senses, and to whom there was no
+excitement to impress it on the memories of succeeding generations,
+arising from the importance of the circumstances connected with it.
+The possession of iron, indeed, supposing it traced to this source,
+may be alleged too valuable, to have admitted such total forgetfulness
+of the event which occasioned it. But this difficulty readily resolves
+into a general remark, that even in more fortunate situations, the
+authors and occasions of many discoveries and inventions are soon lost
+sight of, in the more interesting experience of the utility that
+commends them. Men, in fact, are always much more anxious to avail
+themselves of the advantages which genius or accident has presented to
+their notice, than careful to testify gratitude by ascertaining and
+perpetuating the original sources to which they have been indebted. A
+case, not indeed quite parallel, instantly occurs to recollection. How
+few persons are there in this island, who have the smallest
+conception, to whom it is they are indebted for the introduction of
+that valuable vegetable the potatoe? The incident, no doubt, is
+recorded in the history of our country. But is there one in a thousand
+to whom the article is so familiar, that knows whence it came; or is
+it conceivable, that, without such a record, any individual of the
+present generation would have doubted for a moment that it was
+indigenous to Britain? We might multiply such examples almost without
+end. But the reader may like better to amuse himself with an enquiry
+into the extent of common ignorance and indifference.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The common dress of the women bears a close resemblance to that of the men.
+They wrap round the waist a piece of cloth, that reaches half way down the
+thighs; and sometimes in the cool of the evening they appeared with loose
+pieces of fine cloth, thrown over their shoulders, like the women of
+Otaheite. The <i>pau</i> is another dress very frequently worn by the younger
+part of the sex. It is made of the thinnest and finest sort of cloth, wrapt
+several times round the waist, and descending to the leg, so as to have
+exactly the appearance of a full short petticoat. The hair is cut short
+behind, and turned up before, as is the fashion among the Otaheiteans and
+New Zealanders; all of whom differ, in this respect, from the women of the
+Friendly Islands, who wear their hair long. We saw, indeed, one woman in
+Karakakooa Bay, Whose hair was arranged in a very singular manner; it was
+turned up behind, and brought over the forehead, and then doubled back, so
+as to form a sort of a shade to the face, like a small bonnet.
+
+<p>Their necklaces are made of shells, or of a hard shining red berry. Besides
+which, they wear wreaths of dried flowers of the Indian mallow; and another
+beautiful ornament called <i>eraie</i>, which is generally put about the neck,
+but is sometimes tied like a garland round the hair, and sometimes worn in
+both these ways at once. It is a ruff, of the thickness of a finger, made
+in a curious manner, of exceedingly small feathers, woven so close together
+as to form a surface as smooth as that of the richest velvet. The ground
+was generally of a red colour, with alternate circles of green, yellow, and
+black. Their bracelets, which were also of great variety, and very peculiar
+kinds, have been already described.
+
+<p>At Atooi, some of the women wore little figures of the turtle, neatly
+formed of wood or ivory, tied on their fingers in the manner we wear rings.
+Why this animal is thus particularly distinguished, I leave to the
+conjectures of the curious. There is also an ornament, made of shells,
+fastened in rows on a ground of strong netting, so as to strike each other
+when in motion; which both men and women, when they dance, tie either round
+the arm or the ankle, or below the knee. Instead of shells, they sometimes
+make use of dog's teeth, and a hard red berry, resembling that of the
+holly.
+
+<p>There remains to be mentioned another ornament (if such it may be called),
+which is a kind of mask, made of a large gourd, with holes cut in it for
+the eyes and nose. The top was stuck full of small green twigs, which, at a
+distance, had the appearance of an elegant waving plume; and from the lower
+part hung narrow stripes of cloth, resembling a beard. We never saw these
+masks worn but twice, and both times by a number of people together in a
+canoe, who came to the side of the ship, laughing and drolling, with an air
+of masquerading. Whether they may not likewise be used as a defence for the
+head against stones, for which, they seem best designed; or in some of
+their public games; or be merely intended for the purposes of mummery, we
+could never inform ourselves.
+
+<p>It has already been remarked, in a few instances, that the natives of the
+Sandwich Islands approach nearer to the New Zealanders in their manners and
+customs, than to either of their less distant neighbours of the Society or
+Friendly Islands. This is in nothing more observable than in their method
+of living together in small towns or villages, containing from about one
+hundred to two hundred houses, built pretty close together, without any
+order, and having a winding path leading through them. They are generally
+flanked, toward the sea, with loose detached walls, which, probably, are
+meant both for the purposes of shelter and defence. The figure of their
+houses has been already described. They are of different sizes, from
+eighteen feet by twelve, to forty-five by twenty-four. There are some of a
+larger kind, being fifty feet long and thirty broad, and quite open at one
+end. These, they told us, were designed for travellers or strangers, who
+were only making a short stay.
+
+<p>In addition to the furniture of their houses, which has been accurately
+described by Captain Cook, I have only to add, that at one end are mats on
+which they sleep, with wooden pillows, or sleeping stools, exactly like
+those of the Chinese. Some of the better sort of houses have a courtyard
+before them, neatly railed in, with smaller houses built round it, for
+their servants. In this <i>area</i> they generally eat, and sit during the day-
+time. In the sides of the hills, and among the steep rocks, we also
+observed several holes or caves, which appeared to be inhabited; but as the
+entrance was defended with wicker-work, and we also found, in the only one
+that was visited, a stone-fence running across it within, we imagine they
+are principally designed for places of retreat, in case of an attack from
+an enemy.
+
+<p>The food of the lower class of people consists principally of fish and
+vegetables, such as yams, sweet-potatoes, tarrow, plantains, sugar-canes,
+and bread-fruit. To these the people of a higher rank add the flesh of hogs
+and dogs, dressed in the same manner as at the Society Islands. They also
+eat fowls of the same domestic kind with ours; but they are neither
+plentiful nor much esteemed by them. It is remarked by Captain Cook, that
+the bread-fruit and yams appeared scarce amongst them, and were reckoned
+great rarities. We found this not to be the case on our second visit; and
+it is therefore most probable, that, as these vegetables were generally
+planted in the interior parts of the country, the natives had not had time
+to bring them down to us during the short stay we made at Wymoa Bay. Their
+fish, they salt, and preserve in gourd-shells; not, as we at first
+imagined, for the purpose of providing against any temporary scarcity, but
+from the preference they give to salted meats. For we also found, that the
+<i>Erees</i> used to pickle pieces of pork in the same manner, and esteemed it a
+great delicacy.
+
+<p>Their cookery is exactly of the same sort with that already described in
+the accounts that have been published of the other South Sea islands; and
+though Captain Cook complains of the sourness of their tarrow puddings,
+yet, in justice to the many excellent meals they afforded us in Karakakooa
+Bay, I must be permitted to rescue them from this general censure, and to
+declare, that I never eat better even in the Friendly Islands. It is
+however remarkable, that they had not got the art of preserving the bread-
+fruit, and making the sour paste of it called <i>Maihee</i>, as at the Society
+Islands; and it was some satisfaction to as, in return for their great
+kindness and hospitality, to have it in our power to teach them this useful
+secret. They are exceedingly cleanly at their meals; and their mode of
+dressing both their animal and vegetable food was universally allowed to be
+greatly superior to ours. The chiefs constantly begin their meal with a
+dose of the extract of pepper-root, brewed after the usual manner. The
+women eat apart from the men, and are <i>tabooed</i>, or forbidden, as has been
+already mentioned, the use of pork, turtle, and particular kinds of
+plantains. However, they would eat pork with us in private; but we could
+never prevail upon them to touch the two last articles.
+
+<p>The way of spending their time appears to be very simple, and to admit of
+little variety. They rise with the sun; and, after enjoying the cool of the
+evening, retire to rest a few hours after sun-set. The making of canoes and
+mats forms the occupations of the <i>Erees</i>; the women are employed in
+manufacturing cloth; and the <i>Towtows</i> are principally engaged in the
+plantations and fishing. Their idle hours are filled up with various
+amusements. Their young men and women are fond of dancing; and on more
+solemn occasions, they have boxing and wrestling matches, after the manner
+of the Friendly Islands; though, in all these respects, they are much
+inferior to the latter.
+
+<p>Their dances have a much nearer resemblance to those of the New Zealanders
+than of the Otaheiteans or Friendly Islanders. They are prefaced with a
+slow, solemn song, in which all the party join, moving their legs, and
+gently striking their breasts, in a manner, and with attitudes, that are
+perfectly easy and graceful; and so far they are the same with the dancers
+of the other Society Islands. When this has lasted about ten minutes, both
+the tune and motions gradually quicken, and end only by their inability to
+support the fatigue; which part of the performance is the exact counterpart
+of that of the New Zealanders; and (as it is among them) the person who
+uses the most violent action, and holds out the longest, is applauded as
+the best dancer. It is to be observed, that, in this dance, the women only
+take a part; and that the dancing of the men is nearly of the same kind
+with what we saw of the small parties at the Friendly Islands; and which
+may, perhaps, with more propriety, be called the accompaniment of songs,
+with corresponding and graceful motions of the whole body. Yet, as we were
+spectators of boxing exhibitions, of the same kind with those we were
+entertained with at the Friendly Islands, it is probable that they had
+likewise their grand ceremonious dances, in which numbers of both sexes
+assisted.
+
+<p>Their music is also of a ruder kind, having neither flutes nor reeds, nor
+instruments of any other sort, that we saw, except drums of various sizes.
+But their songs, which they sung in parts,[10] and accompany with a gentle
+motion of the arms, in the same manner as the Friendly Islanders, had a
+very pleasing effect.
+
+<blockquote>[10] As this circumstance, of their <i>singing in parts</i>, has been much
+doubted by persons eminently skilled in music, and would be
+exceedingly curious if it were clearly ascertained, it is to be
+lamented that it cannot be more positively authenticated.
+
+<p>Captain Burney, and Captain Phillips, of the marines, who both have a
+tolerable knowledge of music, have given it as their opinion, that
+they did sing in parts; that is to say, that they sung together in
+different notes, which formed a pleasing harmony.
+
+<p>These gentlemen have fully testified, that the Friendly Islanders
+undoubtedly studied their performances before they were exhibited in
+public; that they had an idea of different notes being useful in
+harmony; and also, that they rehearsed their compositions in private,
+and threw out the inferior voices, before they ventured to appear
+before those who were supposed to be judges of their skill in music.
+
+<p>In their regular concerts each man had a bamboo, which was of a
+different length and gave a different tone; these they beat against
+the ground, and each performer, assisted by the note given by this
+instrument, repeated the same note, accompanying it by words, by which
+means it was rendered sometimes short and sometimes long. In this
+manner they sing in chorus, and not only produced octaves to each
+other, according to their different species of voice, but fell on
+concords, such as were not disagreeable to the ear.
+
+<p>Now, to overturn this fact, by the reasoning of persons who did not
+hear these performances, is rather an arduous task. And yet there is
+great improbability, that any uncivilized people should, by accident,
+arrive at this degree of perfection in the art of music, which, we
+imagine, can only be attained by dint of study, and knowledge of the
+system and theory upon which musical composition is founded. Such
+miserable jargon as our country psalm-singers practise, which may be
+justly deemed the lowest class of counterpoint, or singing in several
+parts, cannot be acquired, in the coarse manner in which it is
+performed in the churches, without considerable time and practice. It
+is therefore scarcely credible, that a people, semi-barbarous, should
+naturally arrive at any perfection in that art, which it is much
+doubted, whether the Greeks and Romans, with all their refinements in
+music, ever attained, and which the Chinese, who have been longer
+civilized than any people on the globe, have not yet found out.
+
+<p>If Captain Burney (who, by the testimony of his father, perhaps the
+greatest musical theorist of this or any other age, was able to have
+done it) had written down, in European notes, the concords that these
+people sing; and if these concords had been such as European ears
+could tolerate, there would have been no longer doubt of the fact;
+but, as it is, it would, in my opinion, be a rash judgment to venture
+to affirm, that they did or did not understand counterpoint; and
+therefore I fear that this curious matter must be considered as still
+remaining undecided.</blockquote>
+
+<p>It is very remarkable that the people of these islands are great gamblers.
+They have a game very much like our draughts; but if one may judge from the
+number of squares, it is much more intricate. The board is about two feet
+long, and is divided into two hundred and thirty-eight squares, of which
+there are fourteen in a row; and they make use of black and white pebbles,
+which they move from square to square.
+
+<p>There is another game, which consists in hiding a stone under a piece of
+cloth, which one of the parties spreads out, and rumples in such a manner
+that the place where the stone lies is difficult to be distinguished. The
+antagonist, with a stick, then strikes the part of the cloth where he
+imagines the stone to be; and as the chances are, upon the whole,
+considerably against his hitting it, odds, of all degrees, varying with the
+opinion of the skill of the parties, are laid on the side of him who hides.
+
+<p>Besides these games, they frequently amuse themselves with racing matches
+between the boys and girls; and here, again, they wager with great spirit.
+I saw a man in a most violent rage, tearing his hair, and beating his
+breast, after losing three hatchets at one of these races, which he had
+just before purchased from us with half his substance.
+
+<p>Swimming is not only a necessary art, in which both their men and women are
+more expert than any people we had hitherto seen, but a favourite diversion
+amongst them. One particular mode, in which they sometimes amused
+themselves with this exercise, in Karakakooa Bay, appeared to us most
+perilous and extraordinary, and well deserving a distinct relation.
+
+<p>The surf, which breaks on the coast round the bay, extends to the distance
+of about one hundred and fifty yards from the shore, within which space the
+surges of the sea, accumulating from the shallowness of the water, are
+dashed against the beach with prodigious violence. Whenever, from stormy
+weather, or any extraordinary swell at sea, the impetuosity of the surf is
+increased to its utmost height, they choose that time for this amusement,
+which is performed in the following manner: Twenty or thirty of the
+natives, taking each a long narrow board, rounded at the ends, set out
+together from the shore. The first wave they meet they plunge under, and,
+suffering it to roll over them, rise again beyond it, and make the best of
+their way, by swimming out into the sea. The second wave is encountered in
+the same manner with the first; the great difficulty consisting in seizing
+the proper moment of diving under it, which, if missed, the person is
+caught by the surf, and driven back again with great violence; and all his
+dexterity is then required to prevent himself from being dashed against the
+rocks. As soon as they have gained, by these repeated efforts, the smooth
+water beyond the surf, they lay themselves at length on their board, and
+prepare themselves for their return. As the surf consists of a number of
+waves, of which every third is remarked to be always much larger than the
+others, and to flow higher on the shore, the rest breaking in the
+intermediate space, their first object is to place themselves on the summit
+of the largest surge, by which they are driven along with amazing rapidity
+toward the shore. If, by mistake, they should place themselves on one of
+the smaller waves, which breaks before they reach the land, or should not
+be able to keep their plank in a proper direction on the top of the swell,
+they are left exposed to the fury of the next, and, to avoid it, are
+obliged again to dive, and regain the place from which they set out. Those
+who succeed in their object of reaching the shore, have still the greatest
+danger to encounter. The coast being guarded by a chain of rocks, with here
+and there a small opening between them, they are obliged to steer their
+board through one of these, or, in case of failure, to quit it before they
+reach the rocks, and, plunging under the wave, make the best of their way
+back again. This is reckoned very disgraceful, and is also attended with
+the loss of the board, which I have often seen, with great terror, dashed
+to pieces, at the very moment the islander quitted it. The boldness and
+address with which we saw them perform these difficult and dangerous
+manoeuvres, were altogether astonishing, and is scarcely to be
+credited.[11]
+
+<blockquote>[11] An amusement somewhat similar to this, at Otaheite, has been elsewhere
+described.</blockquote>
+
+<p>An accident, of which I was a near spectator, shews at how early a period
+they are so far familiarized to the water, as both to lose all fears of it,
+and to set its dangers at defiance. A canoe being overset, in which was a
+woman with her children, one of them an infant, who, I am convinced, was
+not more than four years old, seemed highly delighted with what had
+happened, swimming about at its ease, and playing a hundred tricks, till
+the canoe was put to rights again.
+
+<p>Besides the amusements I have already mentioned, the young children have
+one, which was much played at, and shewed no small degree of dexterity.
+They take a short stick, with a peg sharpened at both ends, running through
+one extremity of it, and extending about an inch on each side; and throwing
+up a ball, made of green leaves, moulded together, and secured with twine,
+they catch it on the point of the peg; and immediately throwing it up again
+from the peg, they turn the stick round, and thus keep catching it on each
+peg alternately, without missing it, for a considerable time. They are not
+less expert at another game of the same nature, tossing up in the air, and
+catching, in their turns, a number of these balls; so that we frequently
+saw little children thus keep in motion five at a time. With this latter
+play the young people likewise divert themselves at the Friendly Islands.
+
+<p>The great resemblance which prevails in the mode of agriculture and
+navigation, amongst all the inhabitants of the South Sea Islands, leaves me
+very little to add on those heads. Captain Cook has already described the
+figure of the canoes we saw at Atooi. Those of the other islands were
+precisely the same; and the largest we saw was a double canoe, belonging to
+Terreeoboo, which measured seventy feet in length, three and a half in
+depth, and twelve in breadth; and each was hollowed out of one tree.
+
+<p>The progress they have made in sculpture, their skill in painting cloth,
+and their manufacturing of mats, have been all particularly described. The
+most curious specimens of the former, which we saw during our second visit,
+are the bowls in which the chiefs drink <i>ava</i>. These are usually about
+eight or ten inches in diameter, perfectly round, and beautifully polished.
+They are supported by three, and sometimes four small human figures, in
+various attitudes. Some of them rest on the hands of their supporters,
+extended over the head; others on the head and hands; and some on the
+shoulders. The figures, I am told, are accurately proportioned, and neatly
+finished, and even the anatomy of the muscles, in supporting the weight,
+well expressed.
+
+<p>Their cloth is made of the same materials, and in the same manner, as at
+the Friendly and Society Islands. That which is designed to be painted, is
+of a thick and strong texture, several folds being beat and incorporated
+together; after which it is cut in breadths, about two or three feet wide,
+and is painted in a variety of patterns, with a comprehensiveness and
+regularity of design that bespeaks infinite taste and fancy. The exactness
+with which the most intricate patterns are continued is the more
+surprising, when we consider that they have no stamps, and that the whole
+is done by the eye, with pieces of bamboo-cane dipped in paint; the hand
+being supported by another piece of the cane, in the manner practised by
+our painters. Their colours are extracted from the same berries, and other
+vegetable substances, as at Otaheite, which have been already described by
+former voyagers.
+
+<p>The business of painting belongs entirely to the women, and is called
+<i>kipparee</i>; and it is remarkable that they always gave the same name to our
+writing. The young women would often take the pen out of our hands, and
+shew us that they knew the use of it as well as we did; at the same time
+telling us that our pens were not so good as theirs. They looked upon a
+sheet of written paper as a piece of cloth striped after the fashion of our
+country; and it was not without the utmost difficulty that we could make
+them understand that our figures had a meaning in them which theirs had
+not.
+
+<p>Their mats are made of the leaves of the <i>pandanus</i>; and, as well as their
+cloths, are beautifully worked in a variety of patterns, and stained of
+different colours. Some have a ground of pale green, spotted with squares
+or rhomboids of red; others are of a straw colour, spotted with green; and
+others are worked with beautiful stripes, either in straight or waving
+lines of red and brown. In this article of manufacture, whether we regard
+the strength, fineness, or beauty, they certainly excel the whole world.
+
+<p>Their fishing-hooks are made of mother-of-pearl, bone, or wood, pointed and
+barbed with small bones or tortoise-shell. They are of various sizes and
+forms, but the most common are about two or three inches long, and made in
+the shape of a small fish, which serves as a bait, having a bunch of
+feathers tied to the head or tail. Those with which they fish for sharks
+are of a very large size, being generally six or eight inches long.
+Considering the materials of which these hooks were made, their strength
+and neatness are really astonishing; and, in fact, we found them, upon
+trial, much superior to our own.
+
+<p>The line which they use for fishing, for making nets, and for other
+domestic purposes is of different degrees of fineness, and is made of the
+bark of the <i>touta</i>, or cloth-tree; neatly and evenly twisted, in the same
+manner as our common twine; and may be continued to any length. They have a
+finer sort, made of the bark of a small shrub, called <i>areemah</i>; and the
+finest is made of human hair; but this last is chiefly used for things of
+ornament. They also make cordage of a stronger kind, for the rigging of
+their canoes, from the fibrous coatings of the cocoa-nuts. Some of this we
+purchased for our own use, and found it well adapted to the smaller kinds
+of the running rigging. They likewise make another sort of cordage, which
+is flat, and exceedingly strong, and used principally in lashing the
+roofing of their houses, or whatever they wish to fasten tight together.
+This last is not twisted like the former sorts, but is made of the fibrous
+strings of the cocoa-nut's coat, plaited with the fingers, in the manner
+our sailors make their points for the reefing of sails.
+
+<p>The gourds, which grow to so enormous a size, that some of them are capable
+of containing from ten to twelve gallons, are applied to all manner of
+domestic purposes; and in order to fit them the better to their respective
+uses, they have the ingenuity to give them different forms, by tying
+bandages round them during their growth. Thus some of them are of a long
+cylindrical form, as best adapted to contain their fishing-tackle; others
+are of a dish form, and these serve to hold their salt and salted
+provisions, their puddings, vegetables, &amp;c. which two sorts have neat close
+covers, made likewise of the gourd; others, again, are exactly in the shape
+of a bottle with a long neck, and in these they keep their water. They have
+likewise a method of scoring them with a heated instrument, so as to give
+them the appearance of being painted in a variety of neat and elegant
+designs.
+
+<p>Amongst their arts, we must not forget that of making salt, with which we
+were amply supplied during our stay at these islands, and which was
+perfectly good of its kind. Their salt-pans are made of earth, lined with
+clay; being generally six or eight feet square, and about eight inches
+deep. They are raised upon a bank of stones near to high-water mark, from
+whence the salt-water is conducted to the foot of them in small trenches,
+out of which they are filled, and the sun quickly performs the necessary
+process of evaporation. The salt we procured at Atooi and Oneeheow, on our
+first visit, was of a brown and dirty sort; but that which we afterward got
+in Karakakooa Bay was white, and of a most excellent quality, and in great
+abundance. Besides the quantity we used in salting pork, we filled all our
+empty casks, amounting to sixteen puncheons, in the Resolution only.
+
+<p>Their instruments of war are spears, daggers, called <i>pahooas</i>, clubs, and
+slings. The spears are of two sorts, and made of a hard solid wood, which
+has much the appearance of mahogany. One sort is from six to eight feet in
+length, finely polished, and gradually increasing in thickness from the
+extremity till within about half a foot of the point, which tapers
+suddenly, and is furnished with four or six rows of barbs. It is not
+improbable that these might be used in the way of darts. The other sort,
+with which we saw the warriors at Owhyhee and Atooi mostly armed, are
+twelve or fifteen feet long, and, instead of being barbed, terminate toward
+the point like their daggers.
+
+<p>The dagger, or <i>pahooa</i>, is made of heavy black wood, resembling ebony. Its
+length is from one to two feet, with a string passing through the handle,
+for the purpose of suspending it to the arm.
+
+<p>The clubs are made indifferently of several sorts of wood. They are of rude
+workmanship, and of a variety of shapes and sizes.
+
+<p>The slings have nothing singular about them; and in no respect differ from
+our common slings, except that the stone is lodged on a piece of matting
+instead of leather.
+
+<p>SECTION VIII.
+
+<p>General Account of the Sandwich Islands, continued.--Government.--People
+divided into three Classes,--Power of Erreetaboo.--Genealogy of the Kings
+of Owhyhee and Mowee.--Power of the Chiefs.--State of the inferior Class.
+--Punishment of Crimes.--Religion.--Society of Priests.--The Orono.--Their
+Idols.--Songs chanted by the Chiefs, before they drink Ava.--Human
+Sacrifices.--Custom of knocking out the fore Teeth.--Notions with regard to
+a future State.--Marriages.--Remarkable Instance of Jealousy.--Funeral
+Rites.
+
+<p>The people of these islands are manifestly divided into three classes. The
+first are the <i>Erees</i>, or chiefs, of each district, one of which is
+superior to the rest, and is called at Owhyhee <i>Eree-taboo</i>, and <i>Eree-
+moee</i>. By the first of these words they express his absolute authority; and
+by the latter, that all are obliged to prostrate themselves (or put
+themselves to sleep, as the word signifies) in his presence. The second
+class are those who appear to enjoy a right of property without authority.
+The third are the <i>towtows</i>, or servants, who have neither rank nor
+property.
+
+<p>It is not possible to give any thing like a systematical account of the
+subordination of these classes to each other, without departing from that
+strict veracity, which, in works of this nature, is more satisfactory than
+conjectures, however ingenious. I will, therefore, content myself with
+relating such facts as we were witnesses to ourselves, and such accounts as
+we thought could be depended upon; and shall leave the reader to form from
+them his own ideas of the nature of their government.
+
+<p>The great power and high rank of Terreeoboo, the <i>Eree-taboo</i> of Owhyhee,
+was very evident, from the manner in which he was received at Karakakooa,
+on his first arrival. All the natives were seen prostrated at the entrance
+of their houses; and the canoes, for two days before, were <i>tabooed</i>, or
+forbidden to go out, till he took off the restraint. He was at this time
+just returned from Mowee, for the possession of which he was contending in
+favour of his son Teewarro, who had married the daughter and only child of
+the late king of that island, against Tabeeterree, his surviving brother.
+He was attended, in this expedition, by many of his warriors; but whether
+their service was voluntary, or the condition on which they hold their rank
+and property, we could not learn.
+
+<p>That he collects tribute from the subordinate chiefs, we had a very
+striking proof in the instance of Kaoo, which has been already related in
+our transactions of the 2d and 3d of February.
+
+<p>I have before mentioned, that the two most powerful chiefs of these
+islands, are, Terreeoboo of Owhyhee, and Perreeorannee of Wohahoo; the rest
+of the smaller isles being subject to one or other of these; Mowee, and its
+dependencies, being at this time claimed, as we have just observed, by
+Terreeoboo, for Teewarro, his son and intended successor; Atooi and
+Oneeheow being governed by the grandsons of Perreorannee.
+
+<p>The following genealogy of the Owhyhee and Mowee kings, which I collected
+from the priests, during our residence at the <i>morai</i>, in Karakakooa Bay,
+contains all the information I could procure relative to the political
+history of these islands.
+
+<p>This account reaches to four chiefs, predecessors of the present; all of
+whom they represent to have lived to an old age. Their names and
+successions are as follows:
+
+<p>First, Poorahoo Awhykaia was king of Owhyhee, and had an only son called
+Neerooagooa. At this time Mowee was governed by Mokoakea, who had also an
+only son, named Papikaneeou.
+
+<p>Secondly, Neerooagooa had three sons, the eldest named Kahavee; and
+Papikaneeou, of the Mowee race, had an only son, named Kaowreeka.
+
+<p>Thirdly, Kahavee had an only son, Kayenewee a mummow; and Kaowreeka, the
+Mowee king, had two sons, Maiha-maiha, and Taheeterree; the latter of whom
+is now, by one party, acknowledged chief of Mowee.
+
+<p>Fourthly, Kayenewee a mummow had two sons, Terreeoboo and Kaihooa; and
+Maiha-maiha, king of Mowee, had no son, but left a daughter called Roaho.
+
+<p>Fifthly, Terreeoboo, the present king of Owhyhee, had a son, named
+Teewarro, by Rora-rora, the widow of Maiha-maiha, late king of Mowee; and
+this son has married Roaho, his half-sister, in whose right he claims Mowee
+and its appendages.
+
+<p>Taheeterree, the brother of the late king, supported by a considerable
+party, who were not willing that the possessions should go into another
+family, took up arms, and opposed the rights of his niece.
+
+<p>When we were first off Mowee, Terreeoboo was there with his warriors, to
+support the claims of his wife, his son, and daughter-in-law, and had
+fought a battle with the opposite party, in which Taheeterree was worsted.
+We afterwards understood that matters had been compromised, and that
+Taheeterree is to have the possession of the three neighbouring islands
+during his life; that Teewarro is acknowledged the chief of Mowee, and will
+also succeed to the kingdom of Owhyhee on the death of Terreeoboo; and also
+to the sovereignty of the three Islands contiguous to Mowee, on the death
+of Taheeterree. Teewarro has been lately married to his half-sister, and,
+should he die without issue, the government of these islands descends to
+Maiha-maiha, whom we have often had occasion to mention, he being the son
+of Kaihooa, the deceased brother of Terreeoboo. Should he also die without
+issue, they could not tell who would succeed; for the two youngest sons of
+Terreeoboo, one of whom he appears to be exceedingly fond of, being born of
+a woman of no rank, would, from this circumstance, be debarred all right of
+succession. We had not an opportunity of seeing queen Rora-rora, whom
+Terreeoboo had left behind at Mowee; but we have already had occasion to
+take notice, that he was accompanied by Kanee-kabareea, the mother of the
+two youths, to whom he was much attached.
+
+<p>From this account of the genealogy of the Owhyhee and Mowee monarchs, it is
+pretty clear that the government is hereditary; which also makes it very
+probable, that the inferior titles, and property itself, descend in the
+same course. With regard to Perreeorannee, we could only learn that he is
+an <i>Ere-taboo</i>; that he was invading the possession of Taheeterree, but on
+what pretence we were not informed; and that his grandsons governed the
+islands to leeward.
+
+<p>The power of the <i>Erees</i> over the inferior classes of people appears to be
+very absolute. Many instances of this occurred daily during our stay
+amongst them, and have been already related. The people, on the other hand,
+pay them the most implicit obedience; and this state of servility has
+manifestly had a great effect in debasing both their minds and bodies. It
+is, however, remarkable, that the chiefs were never guilty, as far at least
+as came within my knowledge, of any acts of cruelty or injustice, or even
+of insolent behaviour toward them; though, at the same time, they exercised
+their power over one another in the most haughty and oppressive manner. Of
+this I shall give two instances. A chief of the lower order had behaved
+with great civility to the master of the ship, when he went to examine
+Karakakooa Bay, the day before the ship first arrived there; and, in
+return, I afterward carried him on board, and introduced him to Captain
+Cook, who invited him to dine with us. While we were at table, Pareea
+entered, whose face but too plainly manifested his indignation at seeing
+our guest in so honourable a situation. He immediately seized him by the
+hair of the head, and was proceeding to drag him out of the cabin, when the
+captain interfered, and, after a great deal of altercation, all the
+indulgence we could obtain, without coming to a quarrel with Pareea, was,
+that our guest should be suffered to remain, being seated upon the floor,
+whilst Pareea filled his place at the table. At another time, when
+Terreeoboo first came on board the Resolution, Maiha-maiha, who attended
+him, finding Pareea on deck, turned him out of the ship in the most
+ignominious manner; and yet Pareea we certainly knew to be a man of the
+first consequence.
+
+<p>How far the property of the lower class is secured against the rapacity and
+despotism of the great chiefs, I cannot say, but it should seem that it is
+sufficiently protected against private theft, or mutual depredation; for
+not only their plantations, which are spread over the whole country, but
+also their houses, their hogs, and their cloth, were left unguarded,
+without the smallest apprehensions. I have already remarked, that they not
+only separate their possessions by walls in the plain country, but that, in
+the woods likewise, wherever the horse-plantains grow, they make use of
+small white flags, in the same manner, and for the same purpose of
+discriminating property, as they do bunches of leaves at Otaheite. All
+which circumstances, if they do not amount to proofs, are strong
+indications that the power of the chiefs, where property is concerned, is
+not arbitrary, but at least so far circumscribed and ascertained, as to
+make it worth the while for the inferior orders to cultivate the soil, and
+to occupy their possessions distinct from each other.
+
+<p>With respect to the administration of justice, all the information we could
+collect was very imperfect and confined. Whenever any of the lowest class
+of people had a quarrel amongst themselves, the matter in dispute was
+referred to the decision of some chief, probably the chief of the district,
+or the person to whom they appertained. If an inferior chief had given
+cause of offence to one of a higher rank, the feelings of the latter at the
+moment seemed the only measure of his punishment. If he had the good
+fortune to escape the first transports of his superior's rage, he generally
+found means, through the mediation of some third person, to compound for
+his crime by a part or the whole of his property and effects. These were
+the only facts that came to our knowledge on this head.
+
+<p>The religion of these people resembles, in most of its principal features,
+that of the Society and Friendly Islands. Their <i>morais</i>, their <i>whattas</i>,
+their idols, their sacrifices, and their sacred songs, all of which they
+have in common with each other, are convincing proofs that their religious
+notions are derived from the same source. In the length and number of their
+ceremonies, this branch indeed far exceeds the rest; and though in all
+these countries there is a certain class of men, to whose care the
+performance of their religious rites is committed, yet we never met with a
+regular society of priests, till we discovered the cloisters of Kakooa in
+Karakakooa Bay. The head of this order was called <i>Orono</i>; a title which we
+imagined to imply something highly sacred, and which, in the person of
+Omeeah, was honoured almost to adoration. It is probable, that the
+privilege of entering into this order (at least as to the principal offices
+in it) is limited to certain families. Omeeah, the <i>Orono</i>, was the son of
+Kaoo, and the uncle of Kaireekeea, which last presided, during the absence
+of his grandfather, in all religious ceremonies at the <i>morai</i>. It was also
+remarked, that the child of Omeeah, an only son, about five years old, was
+never suffered to appear without a number of attendants, and such other
+marks of care and solicitude as we saw no other like instance of. This
+seemed to indicate that his life was an object of the greatest moment, and
+that he was destined to succeed to the high rank of his father.
+
+<p>It has been mentioned, that the title of <i>Orono</i>, with all its honours, was
+given to Captain Cook; and it is also certain that they regarded us
+generally as a race of people superior to themselves, and used often to say
+that great <i>Eatoua</i> dwelled in our country. The little image, which we have
+before described as the favourite idol on the <i>morai</i> in Karakakooa Bay,
+they call <i>Koonooraekaiee</i>, and said it was Terreeoboo's god, and that he
+also resided amongst us.
+
+<p>There are found an infinite variety of these images both on the <i>morais</i>,
+and within and without their houses, to which they give different names;
+but it soon became obvious to us in how little estimation they were held,
+from their frequent expressions of contempt of them, and from their even
+offering them to sale for trifles. At the same time there seldom failed to
+be some one particular figure in favour, to which, whilst this preference
+lasted, all their adoration was addressed. This consisted in arraying it in
+red cloth, beating their drums, and singing hymns before it, laying bunches
+of red feathers, and different sorts of vegetables, at its feet, and
+exposing a pig or a dog to rot on the <i>whatta</i>, that stood near it.
+
+<p>In a bay to the southward of Karakakooa, a party of our gentlemen were
+conducted to a large house, in which they found the black figure of a man,
+resting on his fingers and toes, with his head inclined backward, the limbs
+well formed, and exactly proportioned, and the whole beautifully polished.
+This figure the natives call <i>Maee</i>; and round it were placed thirteen
+others of rude and distorted shapes, which they said were the <i>Eatooas</i> of
+several deceased chiefs, whose names they recounted. The place was full of
+<i>whattas</i>, on which lay the remains of their offerings. They likewise give
+a place in their houses to many ludicrous and some obscene idols, like the
+Priapus of the ancients.
+
+<p>It hath been remarked by former voyagers, that, both among the Society and
+Friendly Islanders, an adoration is paid to particular birds; and I am led
+to believe that the same custom prevails here; and that, probably, the
+raven is the object of it, from seeing two of these birds tame at the
+village of Kakooa, which they told me were <i>Eatooas</i>; and, refusing every
+thing I offered for them, cautioned me, at the same time, not to hurt or
+offend them.
+
+<p>Amongst their religious ceremonies may be reckoned the prayers and
+offerings made by the priests before their meals. Whilst the <i>ava</i> is
+chewing, of which they always drink before they begin their repast, the
+person of the highest rank takes the lead in a sort of hymn, in which he is
+presently joined by one, two, or more of the company; the rest moving their
+bodies, and striking their hands gently together, in concert with the
+singers. When the <i>ava</i> is ready, cups of it are handed about to those who
+did not join in the song, which they keep in their hands till it is ended;
+when, uniting in one loud response, they drink off their cup. The
+performers of the hymn are then served with <i>ava</i>, who drink it after a
+repetition of the same ceremony; and if there be present one of a very
+superior rank, a cup is, last of all, presented to him, which, after
+chanting some time alone, and being answered by the rest, and pouring a
+little out on the ground, he drinks off. A piece of the flesh that is
+dressed is next cut off, without any selection of the part of the animal,
+which, together with some of the vegetables, being deposited at the foot of
+the image of the <i>Eatooa</i>, and a hymn chanted, their meal commences. A
+ceremony of much the same kind is also performed by the chiefs, whenever
+they drink <i>ava</i> between their meals.
+
+<p>Human sacrifices are more frequent here, according to the account of the
+natives themselves, than in any other islands we visited. These horrid
+rites are not only had recourse to upon the commencement of war, and
+preceding great battles and other signal enterprises, but the death of any
+considerable chief calls for a sacrifice of one or more <i>Towtows</i>,
+according to his rank; and we were told, that ten men were destined to
+suffer on the death of Terreeoboo. What may, if any thing possibly can,
+lessen, in some small degree, the horror of this practice is, that the
+unhappy victims have not the most distant intimation of their fate. Those
+who are fixed upon to fall, are set upon with clubs wherever they happen to
+be, and, after being dispatched, are brought dead to the place, where the
+remainder of the rites are completed. The reader will here call to his
+remembrance the skulls of the captives that had been sacrificed at the
+death of some great chief, and which were fixed on the rails round the top
+of the <i>morai</i> at Kakooa. We got a farther piece of intelligence upon this
+subject at the village of Kowrowa; where, on our enquiring into the use of
+a small piece of ground, inclosed with a stone-fence, we were told that it
+was an <i>Here-eere</i>, or burying-ground of a chief; and there, added our
+informer, pointing to one of the corners, lie the <i>tangata</i> and <i>waheene
+taboo</i>, or the man and woman who were sacrificed at his funeral.
+
+<p>To this class of their customs may also be referred that of knocking out
+their fore-teeth. Scarce any of the lower people, and very few of the
+chiefs, were seen, who had not lost one or more of them; and we always
+understood that this voluntary punishment, like the cutting off the joints
+of the finger at the Friendly Islands, was not inflicted on themselves from
+the violence of grief on the death of their friends, but was designed as a
+propitiatory sacrifice to the <i>Eatooa</i>, to avert any danger or mischief to
+which they might be exposed.
+
+<p>We were able to learn but little of their notions with regard to a future
+state. Whenever we asked them whither the dead were gone? we were always
+answered, that the breath, which they appeared to consider as the soul, or
+immortal part, was gone to the <i>Eatooa</i>; and, on pushing our enquiries
+farther, they seemed to describe some particular place, where they imagined
+the abode of the deceased to be; but we could not perceive that they
+thought, in this state, either rewards or punishments awaited them.
+
+<p>Having promised the reader an explanation of what was meant by the word
+<i>taboo</i>, I shall, in this place, lay before him the particular instances
+that fell under our observation of its application and effects. On our
+enquiring into the reasons of the interdiction of all intercourse between
+us and the natives, the day preceding the arrival of Terreeoboo, we were
+told that the bay was <i>tabooed</i>. The same restriction took place, at our
+request, the day we interred the bones of Captain Cook. In these two
+instances the natives paid the most implicit and scrupulous obedience, but
+whether on any religious principle, or merely in deference to the civil
+authority of their chiefs, I cannot determine. When the ground near our
+observatories, and the place where our masts lay, were <i>tabooed</i>, by
+sticking small wands round them, this operated in a manner not less
+efficacious. But though this mode of consecration was performed by the
+priests only, yet still, as the men ventured to come within the space, when
+invited by us, it should seem that they were under no religious
+apprehensions, and that their obedience was limited to our refusal only.
+The women could, by no means, be induced to come near us; but this was
+probably on account of the <i>morai</i> adjoining, which they are prohibited, at
+all times, and in all the islands of those seas, from approaching. Mention
+hath been already made, that women are always <i>tabooed</i>, or forbidden to
+eat certain kind of meats. We also frequently saw several at their meals,
+who had the meat put into their mouths by others; and, on our asking the
+reason of this singularity, were told that they were <i>tabooed</i>, or
+forbidden to feed themselves. This prohibition, we understood, was always
+laid on them after they had assisted at any funeral, or touched a dead
+body, and also on other occasions. It is necessary to observe, that on
+these occasions they apply the word <i>taboo</i> indifferently both to persons
+and things. Thus they say, the natives were <i>tabooed</i>, or the bay was
+<i>tabooed</i>, and so of the rest. This word is also used to express any thing
+sacred, or eminent, or devoted. Thus the king of Owhyhee was called <i>Eree-
+taboo</i>, a human victim <i>tangata-taboo</i>; and, in the same manner, among the
+Friendly Islanders, Tonga, the island where the king resides, is named
+<i>Tonga-taboo</i>.
+
+<p>Concerning their marriages, I can afford the reader little farther
+satisfaction than informing him, that such a relation or compact exists
+amongst them. I have already had occasion to mention, that at the time
+Terreeoboo had left his queen Rora-rora at Mowee, he was attended by
+another woman, by whom he had children, and to whom he was very much
+attached; but how far polygamy, properly speaking, is allowed, or how far
+it is mixed with concubinage, either with respect to the king, the chiefs,
+or among the inferior orders, too few facts came to our knowledge to
+justify any conclusions. It hath also been observed, that, except
+Kaneekabareea, and the wife of the Orono, with three women whom I shall
+have occasion hereafter to mention, we never saw any female of high rank.
+From what I had an opportunity of observing of the domestic concerns of the
+lowest class, the house seemed to be under the direction of one man and
+woman, and the children in the like state of subordination as in civilized
+countries.
+
+<p>It will not be improper, in this place, to take notice, that we were eye-
+witnesses of a fact, which, as it was the only instance we saw of any thing
+like jealousy among them, shews, at the same time, that not only fidelity,
+but a degree of reserve, is required from the married women of consequence.
+At one of the entertainments of boxing, Omeeah was observed to rise from
+his place two or three times, and to go up to his wife with strong marks of
+displeasure, ordering her, as it appeared to us from his manner, to
+withdraw. Whether it was, that being very handsome, he thought she drew too
+much of our attention, or without being able to determine what other reason
+he might have for his conduct, it is but justice to say, that there existed
+no real cause of jealousy. However, she kept her place, and when the
+entertainment was over, joined our party, and, soliciting some trifling
+presents, was given to understand that we had none about us, but that if
+she would accompany us toward our tent, she should return with such as she
+liked best. She was accordingly walking along with us, which Omeeah
+observing, followed in a violent rage, and seizing her by the hair, began
+to inflict, with his fists, a severe corporeal punishment. This sight,
+especially as we had innocently been the cause of it, gave us much concern;
+and yet we were told, that it would be highly improper to interfere between
+man and wife of such high rank. We were, however, not left without the
+consolation of seeing the natives at last interpose, and had the farther
+satisfaction of meeting them together the next day, in perfect good humour
+with each other; and, what is still more singular, the lady would not
+suffer us to remonstrate with her husband on his treatment of her, which we
+were much inclined to do, and plainly told us, that he had done no more
+than he ought.
+
+<p>Whilst I was ashore at the observatory at Karakakooa Bay, I had twice an
+opportunity of seeing a considerable part of their funeral rites.
+Intelligence was brought me of the death of an old chief in a house near
+our observatories, soon after the event happened. On going to the place, I
+found a number of people assembled, and seated round a square area,
+fronting the house in which the deceased lay, whilst a man, in a red-
+feathered cap, advanced from an interior part of the house to the door,
+and, putting out his head, at almost every moment uttered a most lamentable
+howl, accompanied with the most singular grimaces and violent distortions
+of his face that can be conceived. After this had passed a short time, a
+large mat was spread upon the area, and two men and thirteen women came out
+of the house, and sate themselves down upon it, in three equal rows; the
+two men and three of the women being in front. The necks and hands of the
+women were decorated with, feathered ruffs; and broad green leaves,
+curiously scolloped, were spread over their shoulders. At one corner of
+this <i>area</i>, near a small hut, were half a dozen boys, waving small white
+banners, and the tufted wands, or <i>taboo</i> sticks which, have been often
+mentioned, who would not permit us to approach them. This led me to imagine
+that the dead body might be deposited in this little hut; but I afterwards
+understood, that it was in the house where the man in the red cap opened
+the rites, by playing his tricks at the door. The company just mentioned
+being seated on the mat, began to sing a melancholy tune, accompanied with
+a slow and gentle motion of the body and arms. When this had continued some
+time, they raised themselves on their knees, and, in a posture between
+kneeling and sitting, began by degrees to move their arms and their bodies
+with great rapidity, the tune always keeping pace with their motions. As
+these last exertions were too violent to continue long, they resumed, at
+intervals, their slower movements; and, after this performance had lasted
+an hour, more mats were brought and spread upon the area, and four or five
+elderly women, amongst whom I was told was the dead chief's wife, advanced
+slowly out of the house, and seating themselves in the front of the first
+company, began to cry and wail most bitterly; the women in the three rows
+behind joining them, whilst the two men inclined their heads over them in a
+very melancholy and pensive attitude. At this period of the rites, I was
+obliged to leave them to attend at the observatory; but returning within
+half an hour, found them in the same situation. I continued with them till
+late in the evening, and left them proceeding, with little variation, as
+just described; resolving, however, to attend early in the morning, to see
+the remainder of the ceremony. On my arrival at the house, as soon as it
+was day, I found, to my mortification, the crowd dispersed, and every thing
+quiet; and was given to understand, that the corpse was removed; nor could
+I learn in what manner it was disposed of. I was interrupted in making
+farther enquiries for this purpose, by the approach of three women of rank,
+who, whilst their attendants stood near them with their fly-flaps, sat down
+by us, and, entering into conversation, soon made me comprehend that our
+presence was a hindrance to the performance of some necessary rites. I had
+hardly got out of sight, before I heard their cries and lamentations; and
+meeting them a few hours afterward, I found they had painted the lower part
+of their faces perfectly black.
+
+<p>The other opportunity I had of observing these ceremonies, was in the case
+of an ordinary person; when, on hearing some mournful female cries issue
+from a miserable-looking hut, I ventured into it, and found an old woman
+with her daughter, weeping over the body of an elderly man, who had but
+just expired, being still warm. The first step they took was to cover the
+body with cloth, after which, lying down by it, they drew the cloth over
+themselves, and then began a mournful kind of song, frequently repeating,
+<i>Aweh medooah! Aweh tanee!</i> Oh my father! Oh my husband! A younger daughter
+was also at the same time lying prostrate, in a corner of the house,
+covered over with black cloth, repeating the same words. On leaving this
+melancholy scene, I found at the door a number of their neighbours
+collected together, and listening to their cries with profound silence. I
+was resolved not to miss this opportunity of seeing in what manner they
+dispose of the body; and, therefore, after satisfying myself before I went
+to bed that it was not then removed, I gave orders that the sentries should
+walk backward and forward before the house, and, in case they suspected any
+measures were taking for the removal of the body, to give me immediate
+notice. However, the sentries had not kept a good look-out, for in the
+morning I found the body was gone. On enquiring what they had done with it,
+they pointed toward the sea; indicating most probably thereby, that it had
+been committed to the deep, or perhaps that it had been carried beyond the
+bay, to some burying-ground in another part of the country. The chiefs are
+interred in the <i>morais</i>, or <i>He-ree-erees</i>, with the men sacrificed on the
+occasion, by the side of them; and we observed that the <i>morai</i>, where the
+chief had been buried, who, as I have already mentioned, was killed in the
+cave after so stout a resistance, was hung round with red cloth.
+
+<h2><a name="chapter6" id="chapter6">CHAPTER VI.</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>TRANSACTIONS DURING THE SECOND EXPEDITION TO THE NORTH, BY THE WAY OF
+KAMTSCHATKA; AND ON THE RETURN HOME BY THE WAY OF CANTON AND THE CAPE OF
+GOOD HOPE.
+
+<p>SECTION I.
+
+<p>Departure from Oneeheow--Fruitless Attempt to discover Modoopapappa.--
+Course steered for Awatska Bay.--Occurrences during that Passage.--Sudden
+Change from Heat to Cold.--Distress occasioned by the leaking of the
+Resolution.--View of the Coast of Kamtschatka.--Extreme Rigour of the
+Climate.--Lose Sight of the Discovery.--The Resolution enters the Bay of
+Awatska.--Prospect of the Town of Saint Peter and Saint Paul.--Party sent
+ashore.--Their Reception by the Commanding-Officer of the Port.--Message
+dispatched to the Commander at Bolcheretsk.--Arrival of the
+Discovery.--Return of the Messengers from the Commander.--Extraordinary
+Mode of Travelling.--Visit from a Merchant and a German Servant belonging
+to the Commander.
+
+<p>On the 15th of March, at seven in the morning, we weighed anchor, and
+passing to the north of Tahoora, stood on to the south-west, in hopes of
+falling in with the island of Modoopapappa, which, we were told by the
+natives, lay in that direction, about five hours sail from Tahoora. At four
+in the afternoon, we were overtaken by a stout canoe, with ten men, who
+were going from Oneeheow to Tahoora, to kill tropic and man-of-war birds,
+with which that place was said to abound. It has been mentioned before,
+that the feathers of these birds are in great request, being much used in
+making their cloaks and other ornamental parts of their dress.
+
+<p>At eight, having seen nothing of the island, we hauled the wind to the
+northward till midnight, and then tacked, and stood on a wind to the south-
+east till day-light next morning, at which time Tahoora bore E.N.E., five
+or six leagues distant. We afterward steered W.S.W, and made the
+Discovery's signal to spread four miles upon our starboard-beam. At noon
+our latitude was 21° 27', and our longitude 198° 42'; and having stood on
+till five, in the same direction, we made the Discovery's signal to come
+under our stern, and gave over all hopes of seeing Modoopapappa. We
+conceived that it might probably lie in a more southerly direction from
+Tahoora, than that in which we had steered; though, after all, it is
+possible that we might have passed it in the night, as the islanders
+described it to be very small, and almost even with the surface of the sea.
+
+<p>The next day we steered west; it being Captain Clerke's intention to keep
+as near as possible in the same parallel of latitude, till we should make
+the longitude of Awatska Bay, and afterward to steer due north for the
+harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul in that bay, which was also appointed
+for our rendezvous in case of separation. This track was chosen on account
+of its being, as far as we knew, unexplored; and we were not without hopes
+of falling in with some new island on our passage.
+
+<p>We had scarcely seen a bird since our losing sight of Tahoora, till the
+18th in the afternoon, when, being in the latitude of 21° 12', and the
+longitude of 194° 45', the appearance of a great many boobies, and some
+man-of-war birds, made us keep a sharp look-out for land. Toward evening
+the wind lessened, and the north-east swell, which, on the 16th and 17th,
+had been so heavy as to make the ships labour exceedingly, was much abated.
+The next day we saw no appearance of land; and at noon, we steered a point
+more to the southward, viz. W. by S., in the hopes of finding the trade-
+winds, (which blew almost invariably from the E. by N.,) fresher as we
+advanced within the tropic. It is somewhat singular that, though we saw no
+birds in the forenoon, yet toward evening we had again a number of boobies
+and man-of-war birds about us. This seemed to indicate that we had passed
+the land from whence the former flights had come, and that we were
+approaching some other low island.[12]
+
+<blockquote>[12] It is highly probable that there are several small islands or rocks
+in the vicinity of this track, the discovery of which would at least
+benefit navigation. Thus we are told by Captain Krusenstern, an
+authority to which we are always glad to appeal, that he saw in
+latitude 17°, and longitude 169° 30', an extraordinary number of
+birds, that hovered round his ship in flocks of upwards of a hundred,
+from which he inferred his having passed near some island, which
+served as a resting place for them. In confirmation of this opinion,
+he informs us, that La Perouse in 1786, and an English merchantman in
+1796, discovered west of the Sandwich Islands, the first in the
+parallel of 22°, and the latter in that of 18°, two small rocky
+islands both extremely dangerous; and that the Nero in her passage
+from America to China in 1805, found near this place a very dangerous
+sand island, viz. in 173° 35' 45" W., and 26° 2' 48" N. It is perhaps
+to be regretted, that Krusenstern, who, a few days after the date of
+the remark now quoted, crossed Captain Clerke's course, should have so
+resolutely endeavoured, as he says he did, and that too with tolerable
+success, not to approach the track of that officer nearer than by a
+hundred or a hundred and twenty miles. It is evident, that, within a
+smaller distance, he might have made some useful discovery, without,
+in any measure, endangering his own reputation, as a mere follower in
+the footsteps of others. Here it may be added, that his course was
+more northerly than Clerke's, and that he did not experience any of
+those swells so soon complained of by Captain King.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The wind continued very moderate, with fine weather, till the 23d, when it
+freshened from the N.E. by E., and increased to a strong gale, which split
+some of our old sails, and made the running rigging very frequently give
+way. This gale lasted twelve hours; it then became more moderate, and
+continued so till the 25th at noon, when we entirely lost it, and had only
+a very light air.
+
+<p>On the 26th, in the morning, we thought we saw land to the W.S.W.; but,
+after running about sixteen leagues in that direction, we found our
+mistake; and night coming on, we again steered W. Our latitude, at this
+time, was 19° 45', which was the greatest southing we made in this run; our
+longitude was 183°, and variation 12° 45' E. We continued in this course,
+with little alteration in the wind, till the 29th, when it shifted to the
+S.E. and S.S.E., and, for a few hours in the night, it was in the W.; the
+weather being dark and cloudy, with much rain. We had met, for some days
+past, several turtles, one of which was the smallest I ever saw, not
+exceeding three inches in length. We were also accompanied by man-of-war
+birds, and boobies of an unusual kind, being quite white, except the tip of
+the wing, which was black, and easily mistaken, at first sight, for
+gannets.
+
+<p>The light winds which we had met with for some time past, with the present
+unsettled state of the weather, and the little appearance of any change for
+the better, induced Captain Clerke to alter his plan of keeping within the
+tropical latitudes; and accordingly, at six this evening, we began to steer
+N.W. by N., at which time our latitude was 20° 23', and our longitude 180°
+40'. During the continuance of the light winds, which prevailed almost
+constantly ever since our departure from the Sandwich Islands, the weather
+was very close, and the air hot and sultry; the thermometer being generally
+at 80°, and sometimes at 83°. All this time we had a considerable swell
+from the N.E.; and in no period of the voyage did the ships roll and strain
+so violently.
+
+<p>In the morning of the 1st of April, the wind changed from the S.E. to the
+N.E. by E., and blew a fresh breeze till the morning of the 4th, when it
+altered two points more to the E., and by noon increased to a strong gale,
+which lasted till the afternoon of the 5th, attended with hazy weather. It
+then again altered its direction to the S.E., became more moderate, and was
+accompanied by heavy showers of rain. During all this time, we kept
+steering to the N.W. against a slow, but regular current from that quarter,
+which caused a constant variation from our reckoning by the log, of fifteen
+miles a day. On the 4th, being then in the latitude 26° 17', and longitude
+173° 30', we passed prodigious quantities of what sailors call Portuguese
+men-of-war (<i>holothuria physalis</i>), and were also accompanied with a great
+number of sea-birds, amongst which we observed, for the first time, the
+albatross and sheerwater.
+
+<p>On the 6th, at noon, we lost the trade-wind, and were suddenly taken aback,
+with the wind from the N.N.W. At this time our latitude was 29° 50', and
+our longitude 170° l'. As the old running ropes were constantly breaking in
+the late gales, we reeved what new ones we had left, and made such other
+preparations as were necessary for the very different climate with which we
+were now shortly to encounter. The fine weather we met with between the
+tropics had not been idly spent. The carpenters found sufficient employment
+in repairing the boats. The best bower-cable had been so much damaged by
+the foul ground in Karakakooa Bay, and whilst we were at anchor off
+Oneeheow, that we were obliged to cut forty fathoms from it; in converting
+of which, with other old cordage into spunyarn, and applying it to
+different uses, a considerable part of the people were kept constantly
+employed by the boatswain. The airing of sails and other stores, which,
+from the leakiness of the decks and sides of the ships, were perpetually
+subject to be wet, had now become a frequent as well as a laborious and
+troublesome part of our duty.
+
+<p>Besides these cares, which had regard only to the ships themselves, there
+were others, which had for their object the preservation of the health of
+the crews, that furnished a constant occupation to a great number of our
+hands. The standing orders, established by Captain Cook, of airing the
+bedding, placing fires between deck, washing them with vinegar, and smoking
+them with gunpowder, were observed without any intermission. For some time
+past, even the operation of mending the sailors' old jackets had risen into
+a duty both of difficulty and importance. It may be necessary to inform
+those who are unacquainted with the disposition and habits of seamen, that
+they are so accustomed in ships of war to be directed in the care of
+themselves by their officers, that they lose the very idea of foresight,
+and contract the thoughtlessness of infants. I am sure, that if our people
+had been left to their own discretion alone, we should have had the whole
+crew naked, before the voyage had been half finished. It was natural to
+expect, that their experience, during our voyage to the north last year,
+would have made them sensible of the necessity of paying some attention to
+these matters; but if such reflections ever occurred to them, their
+impression was so transitory, that upon our return to the tropical
+climates, their fur-jackets, and the rest of their cold country clothes,
+were kicked about the decks as things of no value; though it was generally
+known in both ships, that we were to make another voyage toward the Pole.
+They were of course picked up by the officers; and being put into casks,
+restored about this time to the owners.
+
+<p>In the afternoon we observed some of the sheathing floating by the ship;
+and on examination found that twelve or fourteen feet had been washed off
+from under the larboard bow, where we supposed the leak to have been, which
+ever since our leaving Sandwich Islands, had kept the people almost
+constantly at the pumps, making twelve inches water an hour. This day we
+saw a number of small crabs, of a pale blue colour; and had again, in
+company, a few albatrosses and sheerwaters. The thermometer in the night-
+time sunk eleven degrees; and although it remained as high as 59°, yet we
+suffered much from the cold, our feelings being as yet by no means
+reconciled to that degree of temperature.
+
+<p>The wind continued blowing fresh from the N. till the 8th in the morning,
+when it became more moderate, with fair weather, and gradually changed its
+direction to the E., and afterward to the S.
+
+<p>On the 9th, at noon, our latitude was 32° 16', our longitude 166° 40', and
+the variation 8° 30' E. And on the 10th, having crossed the track of the
+Spanish galleons from the Manillas to Acapulco, we expected to have fallen
+in with the island of Rica de Plata, which, according to De Lisle's chart,
+in which the route of those ships is laid down, ought to have been in
+sight; its latitude, as there given, being 33° 30' N., and its longitude
+166° E. Notwithstanding we were so far advanced to the northward, we saw
+this day a tropic-bird, and also several other kinds of sea-birds, such as
+puffins, sea-parrots, sheerwaters, and albatrosses.
+
+<p>On the 11th, at noon, we were in latitude 35° 30', longitude 165° 45'; and
+during the course of the day, had sea-birds as before, and passed several
+bunches of sea-weed. About the same time, the Discovery passed a log of
+wood; but no other signs of land were seen.
+
+<p>The next day the wind came gradually round to the east, and increased to so
+strong a gale, as obliged us to strike our top-gallant yards, and brought
+us under the lower sails, and the main top-sail close-reefed. Unfortunately
+we were upon that tack, which was the most disadvantageous for our leak.
+But as we had always been able to keep it under with the hand-pumps, it
+gave us no great uneasiness till the 13th, about six in the afternoon, when
+we were greatly alarmed by a sudden inundation, that deluged the whole
+space between decks. The water, which had lodged in the coal-hole, not
+finding a sufficient vent into the well, had forced up the platforms over
+it, and in a moment set every thing afloat. Our situation was indeed
+exceedingly distressing; nor did we immediately see any means of relieving
+ourselves. A pump, through the upper decks into the coal-hole, could answer
+no end, as it would very soon have been choaked up by the small coals; and
+to bale the water out with buckets was become impracticable, from the
+number of bulky materials that were washed out of the gunner's store-room
+into it, and which, by the ship's motion, were tossed violently from side
+to side. No other method was therefore left, but to cut a hole through the
+bulk-head (or partition) that separated the coal-hole from the fore-hold,
+and by that means to make a passage for the body of water into the well.
+However, before that could be done, it was necessary to get the casks of
+dry provisions out of the forehold, which kept us employed the greatest
+part of the night; so that the carpenters could not get at the partition
+till the next morning. As soon as the passage was made, the greatest part
+of the water emptied itself into the well, and enabled us to get out the
+rest with buckets. But the leak was now so much increased, that we were
+obliged to keep one half of the people constantly pumping and baling, till
+the noon of the 15th. Our men bore with great cheerfulness this excessive
+fatigue, which was much increased by their having no dry place to sleep in;
+and on this account we began to serve their full allowance of grog.
+
+<p>The weather now becoming more moderate, and the swell less heavy, we were
+enabled to clear away the rest of the casks from the fore-hold, and to open
+a sufficient passage for the water to the pumps. This day we saw a greenish
+piece of drift-wood, and fancying the water coloured, we sounded, but got
+no bottom with a hundred and sixty fathoms of line. Our latitude at noon
+this day was 41° 52', longitude 161° 15', variation 6° 30' E.; and the wind
+soon after veering to the northward, we altered our course three points to
+the west.
+
+<p>On the 16th at noon, we were in the latitude of 42° 12', and in the
+longitude of 160° 5'; and as we were now approaching the place where a
+great extent of land is said to have been seen by De Gama, we were glad of
+the opportunity which the course we were steering gave, of contributing to
+remove the doubts, if any should be still entertained, respecting the
+falsehood of this pretended discovery. For it is to be observed, that no
+one has ever yet been able to find who John de Gama was, when he lived, or
+what year this pretended discovery was made.
+
+<p>According to Mr Muller, the first account of it given to the public was in
+a chart published by Texeira, a Portuguese geographer, in 1649, who places
+it ten or twelve degrees to the north-east of Japan, between the latitudes
+of 44° and 45°; and announces it to be <i>land seen by John de Gama, the
+Indian, in a voyage from China to New Spain</i>. On what grounds the French
+geographers have since removed it five degrees to the eastward, does not
+appear; except we suppose it to have been done in order to make room for
+another discovery made by the Dutch, called <i>Company's Land</i>; of which we
+shall have occasion to speak hereafter.
+
+<p>During the whole day the wind was exceedingly unsettled, being seldom
+steady to two or three points, and blowing in fresh gusts, which were
+succeeded by dead calms. These were not unpromising appearances; but after
+standing off and on the whole of this day, without seeing anything of the
+land, we again steered to the northward, not thinking it worth our while to
+lose time in search of an object, the opinion of whose existence had been
+already pretty generally exploded. Our people were employed the whole of
+the 16th, in getting their wet things dry, and in airing the ships below.
+
+<p>We now began to feel very sharply the increasing inclemency of the northern
+climate. In the morning of the 18th, our latitude being 45° 40', and our
+longitude 160° 25', we had snow and sleet, accompanied with strong gales
+from the S.W. This circumstance will appear very remarkable, if we consider
+the season of the year, and the quarter from which the wind blew. On the
+19th, the thermometer in the day-time remained at the freezing point, and
+at four in the morning fell to 29°. If the reader will take the trouble to
+compare the degree of heat, during the hot sultry weather we had at the
+beginning of this month, with the extreme cold which we now endured, he
+will conceive how severely so rapid a change must have been felt by us.
+
+<p>In the gale of the 18th, we had split almost all the sails we had bent,
+which being our second best suit, we were now reduced to make use of our
+last and best set. To add to Captain Clerke's difficulties, the sea was in
+general so rough, and the ships so leaky, that the sail-makers had no place
+to repair the sails in, except his apartments, which in his declining state
+of health was a serious inconvenience to him.
+
+<p>On the 20th at noon, being in latitude 49° 45' N., and longitude 161° 15'
+E., and eagerly expecting to fall in with the coast of Asia, the wind
+shifted suddenly to the north, and continued in the same quarter the
+following day. However, although it retarded our progress, yet the fair
+weather it brought was no small refreshment to us. In the forenoon of the
+21st we saw a whale and a land-bird; and in the afternoon the water looking
+muddy, we sounded, but got no ground with an hundred and forty fathoms of
+line. During the three preceding days, we saw large flocks of wild fowl, of
+a species resembling ducks. This is usually considered as a proof of the
+vicinity of land, but we had no other signs of it since the 16th, in which
+time we had run upwards of an hundred and fifty leagues.
+
+<p>On the 22d the wind shifted to the N.E., attended with misty weather. The
+cold was exceedingly severe, and the ropes were so frozen that it was with
+difficulty we could force them through the blocks. At noon, the latitude,
+by account, was 51° 38', longitude 160° 7'; and on comparing our present
+position with that given to the southern parts of Kamtschatka in the
+Russian charts, Captain Clerke did not think it prudent to run on toward
+the land all night. We therefore tacked at ten, and having found, had
+ground agreeably to our conjectures, with seventy fathoms of line.
+
+<p>On the 23d, at six in the morning, being in latitude 52° 09', and longitude
+160° 07', on the fog clearing away, the land appeared in mountains covered
+with snow; and extending from N. 3/4 E., to S.W.; a high conical rock,
+bearing S.W., 3/4 W., at three or four leagues distance. We had no sooner
+taken this imperfect view, than we were again covered with a thick fog.
+Being now, according to our maps, only eight leagues from the entrance of
+Awatska Bay, as soon as the weather cleared up we stood in to take a nearer
+view of the land; and a more dismal and dreary prospect I never beheld. The
+coast appears strait and uniform, having no inlets or bays; the ground from
+the shore rises in hills of a moderate elevation, behind which are ranges
+of mountains, whose summits were lost in the clouds. The whole scene was
+entirely covered with snow, except the sides of some of the cliffs which
+rose too abruptly from the sea for the snow to lie upon them.
+
+<p>The wind continued blowing very strong from the N.E., with thick hazy
+weather and sleet, from the 24th to the 28th. During the whole time, the
+thermometer was never higher than 30 1/2°. The ship appeared to be a
+complete mass of ice; the shrowds were so incrusted with it, as to measure
+in circumference more than double their usual size; and, in short, the
+experience of the oldest seaman among us had never met with any thing like
+the continued showers of sleet, and the extreme cold which we now
+encountered. Indeed, the severity of the weather, added to the great
+difficulty of working the ships, and the labour of keeping the pumps
+constantly going, rendered the service too hard for many of the crew, some
+of whom were frostbitten, and others laid up with bad colds. We continued
+all this time standing four hours on each tack, having generally soundings
+of sixty fathoms, when about three leagues from the land, but none at twice
+that distance. On the 25th we had a transient view of the entrance of
+Awatska Bay; but, in the present state of the weather, we were afraid of
+venturing into it. Upon our standing off again we lost sight of the
+Discovery; but, as we were now so near the place of rendezvous, this gave
+us no great uneasiness.
+
+<p>On the 28th in the morning, the weather at last cleared, and the wind fell
+to a light breeze from the same quarter as before. We had a fine warm day;
+and, as we now began to expect a thaw, the men were employed in breaking
+the ice from off the rigging, masts, and sails, in order to prevent its
+falling on our heads. At noon, being in the latitude of 52° 44', and the
+longitude of 159°, the entrance of Awatska Bay bore N.W., distant three or
+four leagues; and, about three in the afternoon, a fair wind sprung up from
+the southward, with which we stood in, having regular soundings, from
+twenty-two to seven fathoms.
+
+<p>The mouth of the bay opens in a N.N.W. direction. The land, on the south
+side, is of a moderate height; to the northward it rises into a bluff head,
+which is the highest part of the coast. In the channel between them, near
+the N.E. side, lie three remarkable rocks; and farther in, near the
+opposite coast, a single detached rock of a considerable size. On the north
+head there is a look-out house, which, when the Russians expect any of
+their ships, upon the coast, is used as a light-house. There was a flag-
+staff on it, but we saw no sign of any person being there.
+
+<p>Having passed the mouth of the bay, which is about four miles long, we
+opened a large circular bason of twenty-five miles in circumference; and,
+at half past four, came to an anchor in six fathoms water, being afraid of
+running foul on a shoal, or some sunk rocks, which are said by Muller[13]
+to lie in the channel of the harbour of St Peter and St Paul. The middle of
+the bay was full of loose ice, drifting with the tide; but the shores were
+still entirely blocked up with it. Great flocks of wild-fowl were seen of
+various species; likewise ravens, eagles, and large flights of Greenland
+pigeons. We examined every corner of the bay with our glasses, in search of
+the town of St Peter and St Paul; which, according to the accounts given us
+at Oonalashka, we had conceived to be a place of some strength and
+consideration. At length we discovered on a narrow point of land to the
+N.N.E., a few miserable log-houses, and some conical huts, raised on poles,
+amounting in all to about thirty; which, from their situation,
+notwithstanding all the respect we wished to entertain for a Russian
+<i>ostrog</i>, we were under the necessity of concluding to be Petropaulowska.
+However, in justice to the generous and hospitable treatment we found here,
+I shall beg leave to anticipate the reader's curiosity, by assuring him
+that our disappointment proved to be more of a laughable than a serious
+nature. For, in this wretched extremity of the earth, situated beyond every
+thing that we conceived to be most barbarous and inhospitable, and, as it
+were, out of the very reach of civilization, barricadoed with ice, and
+covered with summer snow, in a poor miserable port, far inferior to the
+meanest of our fishing towns, we met with feelings of humanity, joined to a
+greatness of mind, and elevation of sentiment, which would have done honour
+to any nation or climate.
+
+<blockquote>[13] Voyages made by the Russians from Asia to America, &amp;c., translated
+from the German, by T. Jeffereys, p. 37.</blockquote>
+
+<p>During the night much ice drifted by us with the tide, and at day-light I
+was sent with the boats to examine the bay, and deliver the letters we had
+brought from Oonalashka to the Russian commander. We directed our course
+toward the village I have just mentioned, and having proceeded as far as we
+were able with the boats, we got upon the ice, which, extended near half a
+mile from the shore. Mr Webber, and two of the seamen, accompanied me,
+whilst the master took the pinnace and cutter to finish the survey, leaving
+the jolly-boat behind to carry us back.
+
+<p>I believe the inhabitants had not yet seen either the ship or the boats;
+for even after we had got on the ice, we could not perceive any signs of a
+living creature in the town. By the time we had advanced a little way on
+the ice, we observed a few men hurrying backward and forward, and presently
+after a sledge drawn by dogs, with one of the inhabitants in it, came down
+to the sea-side, opposite to us. Whilst we were gazing at this unusual
+sight, and admiring the great civility of this stranger, which we imagined
+had brought him to our assistance, the man, after viewing us for some time
+very attentively, turned short round, and went off with great speed toward
+the <i>ostrog</i>. We were not less chagrined than disappointed at his abrupt
+departure, as we began to find our journey over the ice attended not only
+with great difficulty, but even with danger. We sunk at every step almost
+knee-deep in the snow, and though we found tolerable footing at the bottom,
+yet the weak parts of the ice not being discoverable, we were constantly
+exposed to the risk of breaking through it. This accident at last actually
+happened to myself; for, stepping on quickly over a suspicious spot, in
+order to press with less weight upon it, I came upon a second, before I
+could stop myself, which broke under me, and in I fell. Luckily I rose
+clear of the ice, and a man that was a little way behind with a boat-hook,
+throwing it to me, I laid it across some loose pieces near me, and by that
+means was enabled to get upon firm ice again.
+
+<p>As we approached the shore, we found the ice, contrary to our expectations,
+more broken than it had been before. We were, however, again comforted by
+the sight of another sledge coming toward us; but instead of proceeding to
+our relief, the driver stopt short, and began to call out to us. I
+immediately held up to him Ismyloff's letters; upon which he turned about,
+and set off back again full speed; followed, I believe, not with the
+prayers of any of our party. Being at a great loss what conclusions to draw
+from this unaccountable behaviour, we continued our march toward the
+<i>ostrog</i>, with great circumspection, and when we had arrived within a
+quarter of a mile of it, we perceived a body of armed men marching toward
+us. That we might give them as little alarm, and have as peaceable an
+appearance as possible, the two men who had boat-hooks in their hands, were
+ordered into the rear, and Mr Webber and myself marched in front. The
+Russian party, consisting of about thirty soldiers, was headed by a decent-
+looking person with a cane in his hand. He halted within a few yards of us,
+and drew up his men in a martial and good order. I delivered to him
+Ismyloff's letters, and endeavoured to make him understand, as well as I
+could (though I afterward found in vain), that we were English, and had
+brought the papers from Oonalashka. After having examined us attentively,
+he began to conduct us toward the village, in great silence and solemnity,
+frequently halting his men, to form them in different manners, and make
+them perform several parts of their manual exercise, probably with a view
+to shew us, that if we had the temerity to offer any violence, we should
+have to deal with men who were not ignorant of their business.
+
+<p>Though I was all this time in my wet clothes, shivering with cold, and
+sufficiently inclined to the most unconditional submission, without having
+my fears violently alarmed, yet it was impossible not to be diverted with
+this military parade, notwithstanding it was attended with the most
+unseasonable delay. At length we arrived at the house of the commanding-
+officer of the party, into which we were ushered; and after no small stir
+in giving orders, and disposing of the military without doors, our host
+made his appearance, accompanied by another person, whom we understood to
+be the secretary of the port. One of Ismyloff's letters was now opened, and
+the other sent off by a special messenger to Bolcheretsk, a town on the
+west side of the peninsula of Kamtschatka, where the Russian commander of
+this province usually resides.
+
+<p>It is very remarkable, that they had not seen the ship the preceding day,
+when we came to anchor in the bay, nor indeed this morning, till our boats
+were pretty near the ice. The panic with which the discovery had struck
+them, we found had been very considerable. The garrison was immediately put
+under arms. Two small field-pieces were placed at the entrance of the
+commander's house, and pointed toward our boats; and shot, powder, and
+lighted matches, were all ready at hand.
+
+<p>The officer, in whose house we were at present entertained, was a serjeant,
+and the commander of the <i>ostrog</i>. Nothing could exceed the kindness and
+hospitality of his behaviour, after he recovered from the alarm occasioned
+by our arrival. We found the house insufferably hot, but exceedingly neat
+and clean. After I had changed my clothes, which the serjeant's civility
+enabled me to do, by furnishing me with a complete suit of his own, we were
+invited to sit down to dinner, which I have no doubt was the best he could
+procure; and, considering the shortness of time he had to provide it, was
+managed with some ingenuity. As there was not time to prepare soup and
+<i>bouilli</i>, we had in their stead some cold beef, sliced, with hot water
+poured over it. We had next a large bird roasted, of a species with which I
+was unacquainted, but of a very excellent taste. After having eaten a part
+of this, it was taken off, and we were served with fish dressed two
+different ways; and soon after the bird again made its appearance, in
+savory and sweet <i>pates</i>. Our liquor, of which I shall have to speak
+hereafter, was of the kind called by the Russians <i>quass</i>, and was much the
+worst part of the entertainment. The serjeant's wife brought in several of
+the dishes herself, and was not permitted to sit down at table. Having
+finished our repast, during which it is hardly necessary to remark, that
+our conversation was confined to a few bows, and other signs of mutual
+respect, we endeavoured to open to our host the cause and objects of our
+visit to this port. As Ismyloff had probably written to them on the same
+subject, in the letters we had before delivered, he appeared very readily
+to conceive our meaning; but as there was unfortunately no one in the place
+that could talk any other language except Russian or Kamtschadale, we found
+the utmost difficulty in comprehending the information he meant to convey
+to us. After some time spent in these endeavours to understand one another,
+we conceived the sum of the intelligence we had procured to be, that though
+no supply, either of provisions or naval stores, was to be had at this
+place, yet that these articles were in great plenty at Bolcheretsk; that
+the commander would most probably be very willing to give us what we
+wanted; but that till the serjeant had received orders from him, neither he
+nor his people, nor the natives, could even venture to go on board the
+ship.
+
+<p>It was now time for us to take our leave; and, as my clothes were still too
+wet to put on, I was obliged to have recourse again to the serjeant's
+benevolence, for his leave to carry those I had borrowed of him on board.
+This request was complied with very cheerfully; and a sledge, drawn by five
+dogs, with a driver, was immediately provided for each of our party. The
+sailors were highly delighted with this mode of conveyance; and what
+diverted them still more was, that the two boat-hooks had also a sledge
+appropriated to themselves. These sledges are so light, and their
+construction so well adapted to the purposes for which they are intended,
+that they went with great expedition, and perfect safety, over the ice,
+which it would have been, impossible for us, with all our caution, to have
+passed on foot.
+
+<p>On our return, we found the boats towing the ship toward the village; and
+at seven we got close to the ice, and moored with the small bower to the
+N.E., and best bower to the S.W.; the entrance of the bay bearing S. by E.,
+and S. 3/4 E.; and the <i>ostrog</i> N., 1/4 E., distant one mile and a half.
+The next morning the casks and cables were got upon the quarter-deck, in
+order to lighten the ship forward; and the carpenters were set to work to
+stop the leak, which had given us so much trouble daring our last run. It
+was found to have been occasioned by the falling of some sheathing from the
+larboard-bow, and the oakum between the planks having been washed out. The
+warm weather we had in the middle of the day, began to make the ice break
+away very fast, which, drifting with the tide, had almost filled up the
+entrance of the bay. Several of our gentlemen paid their visits to the
+serjeant, by whom they were received with great civility; and Captain
+Clerke sent him two bottles of rum, which he understood would be the most
+acceptable present he could make him, and received in return some fine
+fowls of the grouse kind, and twenty trouts. Our sportsmen met with but bad
+success; for though the bay swarmed with flocks of ducks of various kinds,
+and Greenland pigeons, yet they were so shy that they could not come within
+shot of them.
+
+<p>In the morning of the 1st of May, seeing the Discovery standing into the
+bay, a boat was immediately sent to her assistance; and in the afternoon
+she moored close by us. They told us, that after the weather cleared up on
+the 28th, they found themselves to leeward of the bay; and that when they
+got abreast of it the following day, and saw the entrance choked up with
+ice, they stood off, after firing guns, concluding we could not be here;
+but finding afterward it was only loose drift ice, they had ventured in.
+The next day the weather was so very unsettled, attended with heavy showers
+of snow, that the carpenters were not able to proceed in their work. The
+thermometer stood at 28° in the evening, and the frost was exceedingly
+severe in the night.
+
+<p>The following morning, on our observing two sledges drive into the village,
+Captain Clerke sent me on shore, to enquire whether any message was arrived
+from the commander of Kamtschatka, which, according to the serjeant's
+account, might now be expected, in consequence of the intelligence that had
+been sent of our arrival. Bolcheretsk, by the usual route, is about one
+hundred and thirty-five English miles from Saint Peter and Saint Paul's.
+Our dispatches were sent off in a sledge drawn by dogs, on the 29th, about
+noon. And the answer arrived, as we afterward found, early this morning; so
+that they were only a little more than three days and a half in performing
+a journey of two hundred and seventy miles.
+
+<p>The return of the commander's answer was, however, concealed from us for
+the present; and I was told, on my arrival at the serjeant's, that we
+should hear from him the next day. Whilst I was on shore, the boat which
+had brought me, together with another belonging to the Discovery, were set
+fast in the ice, which a southerly wind had driven from the other side of
+the bay. On seeing them entangled, the Discovery's launch had been sent to
+their assistance, but shared the same fate; and in a short time the ice had
+surrounded them near a quarter of a mile deep. This obliged us to stay on
+shore till evening, when, finding no prospect of getting the boats off,
+some of us went in sledges to the edge of the ice, and were taken off by
+boats sent from the ship, and the rest staid on shore all night.
+
+<p>It continued to freeze hard during the night; but before morning, on the
+4th, a change of wind drifted away the floating ice, and set the boats at
+liberty, without their having sustained the smallest damage.
+
+<p>About ten o'clock in the forenoon, we saw several sledges driving down to
+the edge of the ice, and sent a boat to conduct the persons who were in
+them on board. One of these was a Russian merchant, from Bolcheretsk, named
+Fedositch, and the other a German, called Port, who had brought a letter
+from Major Behm, the commander of Kamtschatka, to Captain Clerke. When they
+got to the edge of the ice, and saw distinctly the size of the ships, which
+lay within about two hundred yards from them, they appeared to be
+exceedingly alarmed; and, before they would venture to embark, desired two
+of our boat's crew might be left on shore as hostages for their safety. We
+afterward found, that Ismyloff, in his letter to the commander, had
+misrepresented us, for what reasons we could not conceive, as two small
+trading boats; and that the serjeant, who had only seen the ships at a
+distance, had not in his dispatches rectified the mistake.
+
+<p>When they arrived on board, we still found, from their cautious and
+timorous behaviour, that they were under some unaccountable apprehensions;
+and an uncommon degree of satisfaction was visible in their countenances,
+on the German's finding a person amongst us with whom he could converse.
+This was Mr Webber, who spoke that language perfectly well; and at last,
+though with some difficulty, convinced them that we were Englishmen and
+friends. Mr Port, being introduced to Captain Clerke, delivered to him the
+commander's letter, which was written in German, and was merely
+complimental, inviting him and his officers to Bolcheretsk, to which place
+the people who brought it were to conduct us. Mr Port, at the same time
+acquainted him, that the major had conceived a very wrong idea of the size
+of the ships, and of the service we were engaged in; Ismyloff, in his
+letter, having represented us as two small English packet boats, and
+cautioned him to be on his guard; insinuating, that he suspected us to be
+no better than pirates. In consequence of this letter, he said there had
+been various conjectures formed about us at Bolcheretsk; that the major
+thought it most probable we were on a trading scheme, and for that reason
+had sent down a merchant to us; but that the officer, who was second in
+command, was of opinion we were French, and come with some hostile
+intention, and was for taking measures accordingly. It had required, he
+added, all the major's authority to keep the inhabitants from leaving the
+town, and retiring up into the country, to so extraordinary a pitch had
+their fears risen from their persuasion that we were French.
+
+<p>Their extreme apprehensions of that nation were principally occasioned by
+some circumstances attending an insurrection that had happened at
+Bolcheretsk, a few years before, in which the commander had lost his life.
+We were informed, that an exiled Polish officer, named Beniowski, taking
+advantage of the confusion into which the town was thrown, had seized upon
+a galliot, then lying at the entrance of the Bolchoireka, and had forced on
+board a number of Russian sailors, sufficient to navigate her; that he had
+put on shore a part of the crew at the Kourile Islands, and among the rest,
+Ismyloff, who, as the reader will recollect, had puzzled us exceedingly at
+Oonalashka, with the history of this transaction; though, for want of
+understanding his language, we could not often make out all the
+circumstances attending it; that he passed in sight of Japan; made Luconia;
+and was there directed how to steer to Canton; that arriving there, he had
+applied to the French, and had got a passage in one of their India ships to
+France; and that most of the Russians had likewise returned to Europe in
+French ships, and had afterward found their way to Petersburg. We met with
+three of Beniowski's crew in the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul; and
+from them we learnt the circumstances of the above story.
+
+<p>On our arrival at Canton, we received a farther corroboration, of the facts
+from the gentlemen of the English factory; who told us, that a person had
+arrived there in a Russian galliot, who said he came from Kamtschatka, and
+that he had been furnished by the French factory with a passage to
+Europe.[14]
+
+<blockquote>[14] It hath since appeared, from the Account of Kerguelen's Voyage, that
+this extraordinary person, who had entered into the French service,
+was commander of a new settlement at Madagascar, when Kerguelen
+touched there in 1774.</blockquote>
+
+<p>We could not help being much diverted with the fears and apprehensions of
+these good people, and particularly with the account Mr Port gave us of the
+serjeant's wary proceedings the day before. On seeing me come on shore, in
+company with some other gentlemen, he had made him and the merchant, who
+arrived in the sledges we had seen come in the morning, hide themselves in
+his kitchen, and listen to our conversation with one another, in hopes that
+by this means they might discover whether we were really English or not.
+
+<p>As we concluded, from the commission and dress of Mr Port, that he might
+probably he the commander's secretary, he was received as such, and
+invited, with his companion, the merchant, to dine with Captain Clerke; and
+though we soon began to suspect, from the behaviour of the latter toward
+him, that he was only a common servant, yet this being no time to sacrifice
+our little comforts to our pride, we prevented an explanation, by not
+suffering the question to be put to him; and, in return for the
+satisfaction we reaped from his abilities as a linguist, we continued to
+let him live on a footing of equality with us.
+
+<p>SECTION II.
+
+<p>
+Scarcity of Provisions and Stores at the Harbour of Saint Peter and Saint
+Paul.--A Party set out to visit the Commander at Bolcheretsk.--Passage up
+the River Awatska.--Account of their Reception by the Toion of Karatchin.--
+Description of a Kamtschadale Dress.--Journey on Sledges.--Description of
+this Mode of Travelling.--Arrival at Natcheekin.--Account of Hot
+Springs.--Embark on the Bolchoireka.--Reception at the Capital.--Generous
+and hospitable Conduct of the Commander and the Garrison.--Description of
+Bolcheretsk.--Presents from the Commander.--Russian and Kamtschadale
+Dancing.--Affecting Departure from Bolcheretsk.--Return to Saint Peter and
+Saint Paul's, accompanied by Major Behm, who visits the Ships.--Generosity
+of the Sailors.--Dispatches sent by Major Behm to Petersburg.--His
+Departure, and Character.
+
+<p>
+Being now enabled to converse with the Russians, by the aid of our
+interpreter, with tolerable facility, our first enquiries were directed to
+the means of procuring a supply of fresh provisions and naval stores; from
+the want of which latter article, in particular, we had been for some time
+in great distress. On enquiry, it appeared, that the whole stock of live
+cattle, which the country about the bay could furnish, amounted only to two
+heifers; and these the serjeant very readily promised to procure us. Our
+applications were next made to the merchant, but we found the terms upon
+which he offered to serve us so exorbitant, that Captain Clerke thought it
+necessary to send an officer to visit the commander at Bolcheretsk, and to
+enquire into the price of stores at that place. As soon as this
+determination was communicated to Mr Port, he dispatched an express to the
+commander to inform him of our intentions, and at the same time to clear us
+from the suspicions that were entertained with respect to the designation
+and purposes of our voyage.
+
+<p>Captain Clerke having thought proper to fix on me for this service, I
+received orders, together with Mr Webber, who was to accompany me as
+interpreter, to be ready to set out the next day. It proved, however, too
+stormy, as did also the 6th, for beginning a journey through so wild and
+desolate a country; but on the 7th, the weather appearing more favourable,
+we set out early in the morning in the ship's boats, with a view to reach
+the entrance of the Awatska at high water, on account of the shoals with
+which the mouth of that river abounds; here the country boats were to meet
+us, and carry us up the stream.
+
+<p>Captain Gore was now added to our party, and we were attended by Messrs
+Port and Fedositsch, with two cossacks, and were provided by our conductors
+with warm furred clothing; a precaution which we soon found very necessary,
+as it began to snow briskly just after we set out. At eight o'clock, being
+stopped by shoal water, about a mile from the mouth of the river, some
+small canoes, belonging to the Kamtschadales, took up us and our baggage,
+and carried us over a spit of sand, which is thrown up by the rapidity of
+the river, and which they told us was continually shifting. When we had
+crossed this shoal, the water again deepened, and here we found a
+commodious boat, built and shaped like a Norway yawl, ready to convey us up
+the river, together with canoes for our baggage.
+
+<p>The mouth of the Awatska is about a quarter of a mile broad, and, as we
+advanced, it narrowed very gradually. After we had proceeded a few miles,
+we passed several branches, which, we were told, emptied themselves into
+other parts of the bay; and that some of those on the left hand flowed into
+the Paratounca river. Its general direction from the bay, for the first ten
+miles, is to the north, after which it turns to the westward; this bend
+excepted, it preserves for the most part a straight course; and the country
+through which it flows, to the distance of near thirty miles from the sea,
+is low and flat, and subject to frequent inundations. We were pushed
+forward by six men, with long poles, three at each end of the boat, two of
+whom were cossacks, the others Kamtschadales, and advanced against a strong
+stream, at the rate, as well as I could judge, of about three miles an
+hour. Our Kamtshadales bore this severe labour with great stoutness for ten
+hours, during which we stopped only once, and that for a short time, whilst
+they took some little refreshment. As we had been told, at our first
+setting out in the morning, that we should easily reach an <i>ostrog</i>, called
+Karatchin, the same night, we were much disappointed to find ourselves, at
+sunset, fifteen miles from that place. This we attributed to the delay
+occasioned in passing the shoals we had met with, both at the entrance of
+the river, and in several other places as we proceeded up it; for our boat
+being the first that had passed up the river, the guides were not
+acquainted with the situation of the shifting sand-banks, and unfortunately
+the snow not having yet begun to melt, the shallowness of the river was at
+its extreme.
+
+<p>The fatigue our men had already undergone, and the difficulty of navigating
+the river, which would have been much increased by the darkness of the
+night, obliged us to give up all thoughts of continuing our journey that
+evening. Having therefore found a place tolerably sheltered, and cleared it
+of the snow, we erected a small <i>marquée</i>, which we had brought with us;
+and, by the assistance of a brisk fire, and some good punch, passed the
+night not very unpleasantly. The only inconvenience we laboured under was,
+the being obliged to make the fire at some distance from us. For, although
+the ground was to all appearance dry enough before, yet when the fire was
+alighted, it soon thawed all the parts round it into an absolute puddle. We
+admired much the alertness and expedition with which the Kamtschadales
+erected our <i>marquée</i>, and cooked our provisions; but what was most
+unexpected, we found they had brought with them their tea-kettles;
+considering it as the greatest of hardships not to drink tea two or three
+times a day.
+
+<p>We set out as soon as it was light in the morning, and had not advanced
+far, before we were met by the <i>Toion</i>, or chief of Karatchin, who had been
+apprised of our coming, and had provided canoes that were lighter, and
+better contrived for navigating the higher parts of the river. A commodious
+vessel, consisting of two canoes, lashed close together with cross spars,
+lined with bear-skins, and furnished with fur-cloaks, was also provided for
+us. We now went on very rapidly, the <i>Toion's</i> people being both stout and
+fresh, and remarkable for their expertness in this business. At ten we got
+to the <i>ostrog</i>, the seat of his command, where we were received at the
+water-side by the Kamtschadale men and women, and some Russian servants
+belonging to Fedositsch, who were employed in making canoes. They were all
+dressed out in their best clothes. Those of the women were pretty and gay,
+consisting of a full loose robe of white nankeen, gathered close round the
+neck, and fastened with a collar of coloured silk. Over this they wore a
+short jacket without sleeves, made of different-coloured nankeens, and
+petticoats of a slight Chinese silk. Their shirts, which had sleeves down
+to the wrist, were also of silk; and coloured silk handkerchiefs were bound
+round their heads, concealing entirely the hair of the married women,
+whilst those who were unmarried brought the handkerchief under the hair,
+and suffered it to flow loose behind.
+
+<p>This <i>ostrog</i> was pleasantly situated by the side of the river, and
+consisted of three log-houses, three <i>jourts</i>, or houses made under ground,
+and nineteen <i>balagans</i>, or summer habitations. We were conducted to the
+tent of the <i>Toion</i>, who was a plain decent man, born of a Russian woman,
+by a Kamtschadale father. His house, like all the rest in this country, was
+divided into two apartments. A long narrow table, with a bench round it,
+was all the furniture we saw in the outer; and the household stuff of the
+inner, which was the kitchen, was not less simple and scanty. But the kind
+attention of our host, and the hearty welcome we received, more than
+compensated for the poverty of his lodgings.
+
+<p>His wife proved an excellent cook, and served us with fish and game of
+different sorts, and various kinds of heath-berries, that had been kept
+since the last year. Whilst we were at dinner in this miserable hut, the
+guests of a people, with whose existence we had before been scarce
+acquainted, and at the extremity of the habitable globe, a solitary, half-
+worn pewter spoon, whose shape was familiar to us, attracted our attention;
+and, on examination, we found it stamped on the back with the word
+<i>London</i>. I cannot pass over this circumstance in silence, out of gratitude
+for the many pleasant thoughts, the anxious hopes, and tender remembrances
+it excited in us. Those who have experienced the effects that long absence
+and extreme distance from their native county produce on the mind, will
+readily conceive the pleasure such trifling incidents can give. To the
+philosopher and politician they may perhaps suggest reflections of a
+different nature.[15]
+
+<blockquote>[15] Mr Dugald Stewart has not neglected to avail himself of this
+incident, to illustrate his observations on the power which certain
+perceptions or impressions on the senses possess to awaken
+associations.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>We were now to quit the river, and perform the next part of our journey on
+sledges; but the thaw had been too powerful in the day-time to allow us to
+set out till the cold of the evening had again made the surface of the snow
+hard and firm. This gave us an opportunity of walking about the village,
+which was the only place we had yet seen free from snow since we landed in
+this country. It stood upon a well-wooded flat, about a mile and a half in
+circumference. The leaves were just budding, and the verdure of the whole
+scene was strongly contrasted with the sides of the surrounding hills,
+which were still covered with snow. As the soil appeared to me very capable
+of producing all the common sorts of garden vegetables, I was greatly
+surprised not to find the smallest spot any where cultivated. If to this we
+add, that none of the inhabitants were possessed of cattle of any sort,
+nothing can be well conceived more wretched than their situation must be
+during the winter months.[16] They were at this time removing from their
+<i>jourts</i> into their <i>balagans</i>, which afforded us an opportunity of
+examining both these sorts of habitations; and they will be hereafter more
+particularly described. The people invited us into their houses with great
+good humour; a general air of cheerfulness and content was every where
+visible, to which the approaching change of season might probably not a
+little contribute.
+
+<blockquote>[16] Even so lately as Captain Krusenstern's visit, the number of horned
+cattle at Saint Peter and Saint Paul's amounted to no more than ten
+cows and as many young heifers; of course, he remarks, there was no
+butter, and very little milk. But it is his opinion, that it would be
+extremely easy to support some hundred head there, as the place
+abounds in the finest grass. Elsewhere he informs us, that it is
+calculated there are about six hundred cattle in the whole of
+Kamtschatka; a number which, for obvious reasons, he thinks may and
+ought to be increased.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>On our return to the <i>Toion's</i>, we found supper prepared for us, which
+differed in nothing from our former repast; and concluded with our treating
+the <i>Toion</i> and his wife with some of the spirits we had brought with us,
+made into punch. Captain Gore, who had great generosity on all occasions,
+having afterward made them some valuable presents, they retired to the
+kitchen, leaving us in possession of the outward room, where, spreading our
+bear-skins on the benches, we were glad to get a little repose, having
+settled with our conductors to resume our journey as soon as the ground
+should be judged fit for travelling.
+
+<p>About nine o'clock the same evening we were awakened by the melancholy
+howlings of the dogs, which continued all the time our baggage was lashing
+upon the sledges; but as soon as they were yoked, and we were all prepared
+to set out, this changed into a light cheerful yelping, which, entirely
+ceased the instant they marched off. But before we set out, the reader may
+expect to be made more particularly acquainted with this curious mode of
+travelling.
+
+<p>The body of the sledge is about four feet and a half long, and a foot wide,
+made in the form of a crescent, of light tough wood, strongly bound
+together with wicker-work; which, in those belonging to the better sort of
+people, is elegantly stained of a red and blue colour, and the seat covered
+with bear-skins, or other furs. It is supported by four legs, about two
+feet high, which rest on two long flat pieces of wood, five or six inches
+broad, extending a foot at each end beyond the body of the sledge. These
+are turned up before in the manner of a skate, and shod with the bone of
+some sea-animal. The fore-part of the carriage is ornamented with thongs of
+leather and tassels of coloured cloth; and from the cross-bar, to which the
+harness is joined, are hung links of iron, or small bells, the jingling of
+which they conceive to be encouraging to the dogs. They are seldom used to
+carry more than one person at a time, who sits aside, resting his feet on
+the lower part of the sledge, and carrying his provisions and other
+necessaries, wrapped up in a bundle, behind him. The dogs are usually five
+in number, yoked two and two, with a leader. The reins, not being fastened
+to the head of the dogs, but to the collars, have little power over them,
+and are therefore generally hung upon the sledge, whilst the driver depends
+entirely on their obedience to his voice for the direction of them. With
+this view, the leader is always trained up with a particular degree of care
+and attention; some of them rising to a most extraordinary value on account
+of their docility and steadiness; insomuch, that for one of these, I am
+well assured, forty roubles (or ten pounds) was no unusual price. The
+driver is also provided with a crooked stick, which answers the purpose
+both of whip and reins; as, by striking it into the snow, he is enabled to
+moderate the speed of the dogs, or even to stop them entirely; and when
+they are lazy, or otherwise inattentive to his voice, he chastises them by
+throwing it at them. Upon these occasions their dexterity in picking it up
+again is very remarkable, and forms the principal difficulty of their art.
+But it is indeed not surprising that they should labour to be skilful in a
+practice upon which their safety so materially depends. For they say, that
+if the driver should happen to lose his stick, the dogs will instantly
+perceive it; and unless their leader be of the most sober and resolute
+kind, they will immediately run a-head full speed, and never stop till they
+are quite spent. But as that will not be the case soon, it generally
+happens that either the carriage is overturned, and dashed to pieces
+against the trees, or they hurry down some precipice, and are all buried in
+the snow. The accounts that were given us of the speed of these dogs, and
+of their extraordinary patience of hunger and fatigue, were scarcely
+credible, if they had not been supported by the best authority. We were
+indeed ourselves witnesses of the great expedition with which the
+messenger, who had been dispatched to Bolcheretsk with the news of our
+arrival, returned to the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, though the
+snow was at this time exceedingly soft. But I was informed, by the
+commander of Kamtschatka, that this journey was generally performed in two
+days and a half; and that he had once received an express from the latter
+place in twenty-three hours.
+
+<p>The dogs are fed, during the winter, on the offals of dried and stinking
+fish; but are always deprived of this miserable food a day before they set
+out on a journey, and never suffered to eat before they reach the end of
+it. We were also told, that it was not unusual for them to continue thus
+fasting two entire days, in which time they would perform a journey of one
+hundred and twenty miles.[17] These dogs are in shape somewhat like the
+Pomeranian breed, but considerably larger.
+
+<blockquote>[17] Extraordinary as this may appear, Krascheninikoff, whose account of
+Kamtschatka, from every thing that I saw, and had an opportunity of
+comparing it with, seems to me to deserve entire credit, and whose
+authority I shall, therefore, frequently have recourse to, relates
+instances of this kind that are much more surprising. "Travelling
+parties," says he, "are often overtaken with dreadful storms of snow,
+on the approach of which they drive with the utmost precipitation into
+the nearest wood, and there are obliged to stay till the tempest,
+which frequently lasts six or seven days, is over; the dogs remaining
+all this while quiet and inoffensive; except that sometimes, when
+prest by hunger, they will devour the reins and the other leathern
+parts of the harness."--<i>History and Description of Kamtschatka, by
+Krascheninikof</i>.</blockquote>
+
+<p>As we did not choose to trust to our own skill, we had each of us a man to
+drive and guide the sledge, which, from the state the roads were now in,
+proved a very laborious business. For, as the thaw had advanced very
+considerably in the vallies, through which our road lay, we were under the
+necessity of keeping along the sides of the hills; and this obliged our
+guides, who were provided with snow-shoes for that purpose, to support the
+sledges, on the lower side, with their shoulders, for several miles
+together. I had a very good-humoured cossack to attend me, who was,
+however, so very unskilful in his business, that we were overturned almost
+every minute, to the great entertainment of the rest of the company. Our
+party consisted in all of ten sledges. That in which Captain Gore was
+carried, was made of two lashed together, and abundantly provided with furs
+and bear-skins; it had ten dogs, yoked four a-breast; as had also some of
+those that were heavy laden with baggage.
+
+<p>When we had proceeded about four miles it began to rain; which, added to
+the darkness of the night, threw us all into confusion. It was at last
+agreed, that we should remain where we were till day-light; and accordingly
+we came to anchor in the snow, (for I cannot better express the manner in
+which the sledges were secured,) and wrapping ourselves up in our furs,
+waited patiently for the morning. About three o'clock we were called on to
+set out, our guides being apprehensive, that if we waited longer we might
+be stopped by the thaw, and neither be able to proceed nor to return. After
+encountering many difficulties, which were principally occasioned by the
+bad condition of the road, at two in the afternoon we got safe to an
+<i>ostrog</i>, called Natcheekin, situated on the side of a small stream which
+falls into the Bolchoireka, a little way below the town. The distance
+between Karatchin and Natcheekin is thirty-eight wersts (or twenty-five
+miles;) and had the hard frost continued, we should not, by their account,
+have been more than four hours in performing it; but the snow was so soft,
+that the dogs, almost at every step, sunk up to their bellies; and I was
+indeed much surprised at their being at all able to overcome the
+difficulties of so fatiguing a journey.
+
+<p>Natcheekin is a very inconsiderable <i>ostrog</i>, having only one log-house,
+the residence of the <i>Toion</i>; five <i>balagans</i>, and one <i>jourt</i>. We were
+received here with the same formalities, and in the same hospitable manner,
+as at Karatchin; and in the afternoon we went to visit a remarkable hot-
+spring, which is near this village. We saw at some distance the steam
+rising from it as from a boiling cauldron; and as we approached, perceived
+the air had a strong sulphureous smell. The main spring forms a bason of
+about three feet in diameter; besides which there are a number of lesser
+springs, of the same degree of heat, in the adjacent ground; so that the
+whole spot, to the extent of near an acre, was so hot, that we could not
+stand two minutes in the same place. The water flowing from these springs
+is collected in a small bathing pond, and afterwards forms a little
+rivulet, which, at the distance of about an hundred and fifty yards, falls
+into the river. The bath, they told us, had wrought great cures in several
+disorders, such as rheumatisms, swelled and contracted joints, and
+scorbutic ulcers. In the bathing place the thermometer stood at 100°, or
+blood heat; but in the spring, after being immersed two minutes, it was 1°
+above boiling spirits. The thermometer in the air, at this time was 34°; in
+the river 40°; and in the <i>Toion's</i> house 64°. The ground where these
+springs break out is on a gentle ascent; behind which there is a green hill
+of a moderate size. I am sorry I was not sufficiently skilled in botany to
+examine the plants, which seemed to thrive here with great luxuriance; the
+wild garlic, indeed, forced itself on our notice, and was at this time
+springing up very vigorously.
+
+<p>The next morning we embarked on the Bolchoireka in canoes; and having the
+stream with us, expected to be at our journey's end the day following. The
+town of Bolcheretsk is about eighty miles from Natcheekin; and we were
+informed, that, in the summer season, when the river has been full and
+rapid, from the melting of snow on the mountains, the canoes had often gone
+down in a single day; but that, in its present state, we should probably be
+much longer, as the ice had broken up only three days before we arrived;
+and that ours would be the first boat that had attempted to pass. This
+intelligence proved but too true. We found ourselves greatly impeded by the
+shallows; and though the stream in many places ran with great rapidity, yet
+in every half mile we had ripplings and shoals, over which we had to haul
+the boats.[18] The country on each side was very romantic, but unvaried;
+the river running between mountains of the most craggy and barren aspect,
+where there was nothing to diversify the scene but now and then the sight
+of a bear, and the flights of wild fowl. So uninteresting a passage leaves
+me nothing farther to say, than that this, and the following night, we
+slept on the banks of the river, under our <i>marquée</i>, and suffered very
+much from the severity of the weather, and the snow, which still remained
+on the ground.
+
+<blockquote>[18] Captain King does not seem to have heard or inferred any thing as to
+the danger usually encountered in the summer excursions on the river,
+from the nature of the vessels employed. This, according to
+Krusenstern, infinitely more resembles a trough than a boat, being, in
+fact, the hollow trunk of a tree, and exceedingly apt to be upset by
+the rapidity of the stream. Thus, he says, scarcely a year passes in
+which several people are not drowned, both in the Kamtschatka river
+and the Awatscha; a serious loss any where, no doubt; but in this
+country, where population is so scanty, and so uncertain, incomparably
+more important in a political point of view.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>At day-light, on the 12th, we found we had got clear of the mountains, and
+were entering a low extensive plain, covered with shrubby trees. About nine
+in the forenoon, we arrived at an <i>ostrog</i>, called Opatchin, which is
+computed to be fifty miles from Natcheekin, and is nearly of the same size
+as Karatchin. We found here a serjeant, with four Russian soldiers, who had
+been two days waiting for our arrival, and who immediately dispatched a
+light boat to Bolcheretsk, with intelligence of our approach. We were now
+put into the trammels of formality; a canoe, furnished with skins and furs,
+and equipped in a magnificent manner, was prepared for our reception, in
+which we were accommodated much at our ease, but to the exclusion of the
+rest of our fellow-travellers. It was with much regret we found ourselves
+obliged to separate from our old companion Monsieur Port, whom we had
+observed to grow every day more shy and distant as we drew nearer the end
+of our journey. Indeed, he had himself told us, before we set out, that we
+paid him a respect he had no title to; but as we had found him a very
+modest and discreet man, we had insisted on his living with us during the
+whole of our journey. The remainder of our passage was performed with great
+facility and expedition, the river growing more rapid as we descended, and
+less obstructed by shoals.
+
+<p>As we approached the capital, we were sorry to observe, from an appearance
+of much stir and bustle, that we were to be received in form. Decent
+clothes had been for some time a scarce commodity amongst us; and our
+travelling dresses were made up of a burlesque mixture of European, Indian,
+and Kamtschadale fashions. We therefore thought it would be too ridiculous
+to make a parade in this trim through the metropolis of Kamtschatka; and,
+as we saw a crowd collected on the banks of the river, and were told the
+commander would be at the water-side to receive us, we stopped short, at a
+soldier's house, about a quarter of a mile from the town, from whence we
+sent Port, with a message to his excellency, acquainting him, that the
+moment we had put off our travelling dresses, we would pay our respects to
+him at his own house; and to beg he would not think of waiting to conduct
+us. Finding, however, that he persisted in his intentions of paying us this
+compliment, we lost no farther time in attiring ourselves, but made all the
+haste in our power to join him at the entrance of the town. I observed my
+companions to be as awkward as I felt myself in making our first
+salutations; bowing and scraping being marks of good breeding, that we had
+now, for two years and a half, been totally unaccustomed to. The manner in
+which we were received by the commander, was the most engaging that could
+be conceived, and increased my mortification at finding that he had almost
+entirely forgot the French language; so that the satisfaction of conversing
+with him was wholly confined to Mr Webber, who spoke the German, his native
+tongue.
+
+<p>In company with Major Behm was Captain Shmaleff, the second in command, and
+another officer, with the whole body of the merchants of the place. They
+conducted us to the commander's house, where we were received by his lady
+with great civility, and found tea and other refreshments prepared for us.
+After the first compliments were over, Mr Webber was desired to acquaint
+the major with the object of our journey, with our want of naval stores,
+flour, and fresh provisions, and other necessaries for the ship's crews,
+and at the same time to assure him, that we were sensible, from what we had
+already seen of the condition of the country about Awatska Bay, we could
+not expect much assistance from him in that quarter; that the impossibility
+of sending heavy stores across the peninsula during the present season of
+the year, was but too apparent, from the difficulties we had met with in
+our journey; and that, long before any material change could take place, we
+should be under the necessity of proceeding on our voyage. We were here
+interrupted by the commander, who observed, that we did not yet know what
+they were capable of doing; that, at least, it was not his business to
+think of the difficulties of supplying our wants, but only to learn what
+were the articles we stood in need of, and the longest time we could allow
+him for procuring them. After expressing our sense of his obliging
+disposition, we gave him a list of our naval stores, the number of cattle,
+and the quantity of flour we were directed to purchase, and told him that
+we purposed recommencing our voyage about the 5th of June.
+
+<p>Our conversation afterward turned upon different subjects; and it will
+naturally be supposed that our enquiries were principally directed to the
+obtaining some information respecting our own country. Having now been
+absent three years, we had flattered ourselves with the certainty of
+receiving intelligence from Major Behm, which could not fail of being
+interesting; and I cannot express the disappointment we felt, on finding
+that he had no news to communicate of a much later date than that of our
+departure from England.
+
+<p>About seven o'clock the commander, conceiving we might be fatigued with our
+journey, and desirous of taking some repose, begged he might conduct us to
+our lodgings. It was in vain that we protested against a compliment which
+we had certainly no title to expect, but that of being strangers; a
+circumstance which seemed, in the opinion of this generous Livonian, to
+counterbalance every other consideration. In our way we passed by two
+guard-houses, where the men were turned out under arms, in compliment to
+Captain Gore; and were afterward brought to a very neat and decent house,
+which the major gave us to understand was to be our residence during our
+stay. Two sentinels were posted at the doors, and, in a house adjoining,
+there was a serjeant's guard. Having shewn us into our apartments, the
+major took his leave, with a promise to see us the next day: and we were
+left to find out at our leisure all the conveniences that he had most amply
+provided for us. A soldier, called a <i>putpropersckack</i>, whose rank is
+between that of a serjeant and a corporal, along with our fellow-traveller
+Port, were appointed to be our male domestics; besides whom, there was a
+housekeeper and a cook, who had orders to obey Port's directions in
+dressing us a supper according to our own mode of cookery. We received many
+civil messages in the course of the evening from the principal people of
+the town, purporting, that they would not add to our fatigues by paying
+their respects to us at that time, but would wait upon us in the morning.
+Such well-supported politeness and attention, in a country so desolate and
+uncultivated, formed a contrast exceedingly favourable to its inhabitants;
+and, to finish the piece as it began, at sun-set the serjeant came with the
+report of his guard to Captain Gore.
+
+<p>Early in the morning we received the compliments of the commander, of
+Captain Shmaleff, and of the principal inhabitants of the town, who all
+honoured us with visits soon after. The two first, having sent for Port,
+after we were gone to rest, and enquired of him what articles we seemed to
+be most in want of on board the ships, we found them prepared to insist on
+our sharing with the garrison under their command, in what little stock of
+provisions they had remaining. At the same time they lamented that we had
+arrived at a season of the year, when there was always the greatest
+scarcity of every thing amongst them, the sloops not being yet arrived,
+with their annual supply, from Okotsk.
+
+<p>We agreed to accept the liberality of these hospitable strangers, with the
+best grace we could; but on condition that we might be made acquainted with
+the price of the articles we were to be supplied with, and that Captain
+Clerke should give bills to the amount upon the Victualling Office in
+London. This the major positively refused; and whenever it was afterwards
+urged, stopped us short, by telling us, he was certain that he could not
+oblige his mistress more than in giving every assistance in his power to
+her good friends and allies the English; and that it would be a particular
+satisfaction to her to hear, that, in so remote a part of the world, her
+dominions had afforded any relief to ships engaged in such services as
+ours; that he could not therefore act so contrary to the character of his
+empress as to accept of any bills; but that to accommodate the matter, he
+would take a bare attestation of the particulars with which we might be
+furnished, and that this he should transmit to his court, as a certificate
+of having performed his duty. I shall leave, he continued, to the two
+courts all farther acknowledgments, but cannot consent to accept of any
+thing of the kind alluded to.
+
+<p>When this matter was adjusted, he began to enquire about our private wants,
+saying, he should consider himself as ill used if we had any dealings with
+the merchants, or applied to any other person except himself.
+
+<p>In return for such singular generosity, we had little to bestow but our
+admiration and our thanks. Fortunately, however, Captain Clerke had sent by
+me a set of prints and maps, belonging to the last voyage of Captain Cook,
+which he desired me to present in his name to the commander; who being an
+enthusiast in every thing relating to discoveries, received it with a
+satisfaction which shewed, that, though a trifle, nothing could have been
+more acceptable. Captain Clerke had likewise entrusted me with a
+discretionary power of shewing him a chart of the discoveries made in the
+present voyage; and as I judged that a person in his situation, and of his
+turn of mind, would be exceedingly gratified by a communication of this
+sort, though, out of delicacy, he had forborn to ask more than a few
+general questions on the subject, I made no scruple to repose in him a
+confidence, of which his whole conduct shewed him to be deserving.
+
+<p>I had the pleasure to find, that he felt this compliment as I hoped he
+would, and was much struck at seeing, in one view, the whole of that coast,
+as well on the side of Asia as on that of America, of which his countrymen
+had been so many years employed in acquiring a partial and imperfect
+knowledge.[19]
+
+<blockquote>[19] On this occasion Major Behm permitted us to examine all the maps and
+charts that were in his possession. Those relating to the peninsula of
+the Tschutski, were made in conformity to the information collected by
+Plenishner, between the years 1760 and 1770. As the charts of
+Plenishner were afterwards made use of, according to Mr Coxe, in the
+compilation of the General Map of Russia, published by the Academy in
+1776, it may be necessary to observe, that we found them exceedingly
+erroneous; and that the compilers of the General Map seem to have been
+led into some mistakes on his authority. Those in which the islands on
+the coast of America were laid down, we found to contain nothing new,
+and to be much less accurate than those we saw at Oonalashka.</blockquote>
+
+<p>Excepting this mark of confidence, and the set of prints I have already
+mentioned, we had brought nothing with us that was in the least worth his
+acceptance; for it scarce deserves noticing, that I prevailed on his son, a
+young boy, to accept of a silver watch I happened to have about me; and I
+made his little daughter very happy with two pair of ear-rings of French
+paste. Besides these trifles, I left with Captain Shmaleff the thermometer
+I used on my journey; and he promised me, to keep an exact register of the
+temperature of the air for one year, and to transmit it to Mr Muller, with
+whom he had the pleasure of being acquainted.
+
+<p>We dined this day at the commander's, who, studious on every occasion to
+gratify our curiosity, had, besides a number of dishes dressed in our own
+way, prepared a great variety of others, after the Russian and Kamtschadale
+manner. The afternoon was employed in taking a view of the town and the
+adjacent country. Bolcheretsk is situated in a low swampy plain, that
+extends to the sea of Okotsk, being about forty miles long, and of a
+considerable breadth. It lies on the north side of the Bolchoireka, or
+great river, between the mouth of the Gottsofka and the Bistraia, which
+here empty themselves into this river; and the peninsula, on which it
+stands, has been separated from the continent by a large canal, the work of
+the present commander; which has not only added much to its strength as a
+fortress, but has made it much less liable than it was before to
+inundations. Below the town the river is from six to eight feet deep, and
+about a quarter of a mile broad. It empties itself into the sea of Okotsk,
+at the distance of twenty-two miles; where, according to Krascheninikoff,
+it is capable of admitting vessels of a considerable size. There is not
+corn, of any species, cultivated in this part of the country; and Major
+Behm informed me, that his was the only garden that had yet been planted.
+The ground was, for the most part, covered with snow; that which was free
+from it appeared full of small hillocks, of a black turfy nature. I saw
+about twenty or thirty cows, And the major had six stout horses. These and
+their dogs are the only tame animals they possess; the necessity they are
+under, in the present state of the country, of keeping great numbers of the
+latter, making it impossible to bring up any cattle that are not in size
+and strength a match for them. For, during the summer season, their dogs
+are entirely let loose, and left to provide for themselves, which makes
+them so exceedingly ravenous, that they will sometimes even attack the
+bullocks.
+
+<p>The houses in Bolcheretsk are all of one fashion, being built of logs, and
+thatched. That of the commander is much larger than the rest, consisting of
+three rooms of a considerable size, neatly papered, and which might have
+been reckoned handsome, if the <i>talc</i> with which the windows were covered,
+had not given them a poor and disagreeable appearance. The town consists of
+several rows of low buildings, each consisting of five or six dwellings,
+connected together, with a long common passage running the length of them,
+on one side of which is the kitchen and store-house, and on the other the
+dwelling apartments. Besides these are barracks for the Russian soldiers
+and cossacks, a well-looking church, and a court-room, and at the end of
+the town a great number of <i>balagans</i>, belonging to the Kamtschadales. The
+inhabitants, taken all together, amount to between five and six hundred. In
+the evening the major gave a handsome entertainment, to which the principal
+people of the town of both sexes were invited.
+
+<p>The next morning we applied privately to the merchant, Fedositsch, to
+purchase some tobacco for the sailors, who had now been upward of a
+twelvemonth without this favourite commodity. However, this, like all our
+other transactions of the same kind, came immediately to the major's
+knowledge; and we were soon after surprised to find in our house four bags
+of tobacco, weighing-upward of a hundred pounds each, which he begged might
+be presented, in the name of himself and the garrison under his command, to
+our sailors. At the same time they had sent us twenty loaves of fine sugar,
+and as many pounds of tea, being articles they understood we were in great
+want of, which they begged to be indulged in presenting to the officers.
+Along with these Madame Behm had also sent a present for Captain Clerke,
+consisting of fresh-butter, honey, figs, rice, and some other little things
+of the same kind, attended with many wishes that, in his infirm state of
+health, they might be of service to him. It was in vain we tried to oppose
+this profusion of bounty, which I was really anxious to restrain, being
+convinced that they were giving away, not a share, but almost the whole
+stock of the garrison. The constant answer the major returned us on those
+occasions was, that we had suffered a great deal, and that we must needs be
+in distress. Indeed the length of time we had been out since we touched at
+any known port, appeared to them so very incredible, that it required the
+testimony of our maps, and other corroborating circumstances, to gain their
+belief. Amongst the latter was a very curious fact which Major Behm related
+to us this morning, and which, he said, but for our arrival, he should have
+been totally at a loss to account for.
+
+<p>It is well known that the Tschutski are the only people of the north of
+Asia who have maintained their independence, and resisted all the attempts
+that have been made by the Russians to reduce them. The last expedition
+against them was undertaken in the year 1750, and terminated, after various
+success, in the retreat of the Russian forces, and the loss of the
+commanding officer. Since that time the Russians had removed their frontier
+fortress from the Anadir to the Ingiga, a river that empties itself into
+the northern extremity of the sea of Okotsk, and gives its name to a gulf
+situated to the west of that of Penshinsk. From this fort Major Behm had
+received dispatches the day of our arrival at Bolcheretsk, containing
+intelligence that a tribe, or party of the Tschutski, had arrived at that
+place with propositions of friendship, and a voluntary offer of tribute;
+that on enquiring into the cause of this unexpected alteration in their
+sentiments, they had informed his people, that toward the latter end of the
+last summer they had been visited by two very large Russian boats; that
+they had been treated by the people who were in them with the greatest
+kindness, and had entered into a league of friendship and amity with them;
+and that relying on this friendly disposition, they were now come to the
+Russian fort in order to settle a treaty on such terms as might be
+acceptable to both nations. This extraordinary history had occasioned much
+speculation, both at Ingiginsk and Bolcheretsk; and, had we not furnished
+them with a key to it, must have remained perfectly unintelligible. We felt
+no small satisfaction in having, though accidentally, shewn the Russians,
+in this instance, the only true way of collecting tribute and extending
+their dominions; and in the hopes that the good understanding which this
+event hath given rise to, may rescue a brave people from the future
+invasions of such powerful neighbours.
+
+<p>We dined this day with Captain Shmaleff, and in the afternoon, in order to
+vary our amusements, he treated us with an exhibition of the Russian and
+Kamtschadale dancing. No description can convey an adequate idea of this
+rude and uncouth entertainment. The figure of the Russian dance was much
+like those of our hornpipes, and was danced either single, or by two or
+four persons at a time. Their steps were, short and quick, with the feet
+scarce raised from the ground; the arms were fixed close to the sides, the
+body being all the while kept upright and immovable, excepting when the
+parties passed each other, at which time the hand was raised with a quick
+and awkward motion. But if the Russian dance was, at the same time, both
+unmeaning and ridiculous, the Kamtschadale joined to the latter quality the
+most whimsical idea that ever entered into any people's heads. It is
+intended to represent the awkward and clumsy gestures of the bear, which
+these people have frequent opportunities of observing in a great variety of
+situations. It will scarcely be expected that I should give a minute
+description of all the strange postures which were exhibited on these
+occasions; and I shall therefore only mention, that the body was always
+bowed, and the knees bent, whilst the arms were used in imitating the
+tricks and attitudes of that animal.
+
+<p>As our journey to Bolcheretsk had taken up more time than we expected, and
+we were told that our return might prove still more difficult and tedious,
+we were under the necessity of acquainting the commander this evening with
+our intention of setting out the next day. It was not without the utmost
+regret we thought of leaving our new acquaintance, and were therefore most
+agreeably surprised when the major told us, that if we could stay one
+day longer, he would accompany us. He had, he said, made up his dispatches,
+and resigned the command of Kamtschatka to his successor Captain Shmaleff,
+and had prepared every thing for his departure to Okotsk, which was to take
+place in a few days; but that he should feel great pleasure in putting off
+his journey a little longer, and returning with us to Saint Peter and
+Paul's, that be might himself be a witness of every thing being done for us
+that it was in their power to do.
+
+<p>In return for the few trifles I had given to the children of Major Behm, I
+was next morning, the 15th, presented by his little boy with a most
+magnificent Kamtschadale dress, which shall be described in its proper
+place. It was of the kind worn by the principal <i>Toions</i> of the country on
+occasions of great ceremony; and, as I was afterward told by Fedositsch,
+could not have been purchased for one hundred and twenty roubles. At the
+same time I had a present from his daughter of a handsome sable muff.
+
+<p>We afterward dined with the commander, who, in order to let us see as much
+of the manners of the inhabitants, and of the customs of the country, as
+our time would permit, invited the whole of the better sort of people in
+the village to his house this evening. All the women appeared very
+splendidly dressed after the Kamtschadale fashion. The Wives of Captain
+Shmaleff and the other officers of the garrison, were prettily dressed,
+half in the Siberian and half in the European mode; and Madame Behm, in
+order to make the strongest contrast, had unpacked part of her baggage, and
+put on a rich European dress. I was much struck with the richness and
+variety of the silks which the women wore, and the singularity of their
+habits. The whole was like some enchanted scene in the midst of the wildest
+and most dreary country in the world. Our entertainment again consisted of
+dancing and singing.
+
+<p>The next morning being fixed for our departure, we retired early to our
+lodgings, where the first things we saw were three travelling dresses, made
+after the fashion of the country, which the major had provided for us, who
+came himself to our house soon after, to see all our things packed up and
+properly taken care of. Indeed, what with his liberal presents, and the
+kindness of Captain Shmaleff, and many other individuals, who all begged to
+throw in their mite, together with the ample stock of provisions he had
+sent us for our journey, we had amassed no inconsiderable load of baggage.
+
+<p>Early in the morning, every thing being ready for our departure, we were
+invited to call on Madame Behm in our way to the boats, and take our leave
+of her. Impressed, as our minds were, with sentiments of the warmest
+gratitude, by the attentive, benevolent, and generous treatment we had met
+with at Bolcheretsk, they were greatly heightened by the affecting scene
+which presented itself to us on leaving our lodgings; All the soldiers and
+cossacks belonging to the garrison were drawn up on one hand, and the male
+inhabitants of the town, dressed out in their best clothes, on the other;
+and, as soon as we came out of the house, the whole body of the people
+joined in a melancholy song, which the major told us it was usual in that
+country to sing on taking leave of their friends. In this manner we marched
+down to the commander's house, preceded by the drums and music of the
+garrison, where we were received by Madame Behm, attended by the ladies,
+who were dressed in long silk cloaks, lined with very valuable furs of
+different colours, which made a most magnificent appearance. After
+partaking of some refreshment that was prepared for us, we went down to the
+water-side, accompanied by the ladies, who now joined the song with the
+rest of the inhabitants; and, as soon as we had taken leave of Madame Behm,
+and assured her of the grateful sense we should ever retain of the
+hospitality of Bolcheretsk, we found ourselves too much affected not to
+hasten into the boats with all the expedition we could. When we put off,
+the whole company gave us three cheers, which we returned from the boat;
+and, as we were doubling a point, where, for the last time, we saw our
+friendly entertainers, they took their farewell in another cheer.
+
+<p>We found the stream on our return so exceedingly rapid, that,
+notwithstanding the cossacks and Kamtschadales used their utmost exertions,
+we did not reach the first village, Opatchin, till the evening of the 17th,
+which was at the rate of about twenty miles a day. We got to Natcheekin on
+the 19th; and, on the 20th, we crossed the plain to Karatchin. We found the
+road much better than when we had passed it before, there having been a
+smart frost on the night of the 19th. On the 21st, we proceeded down the
+Awatska river; and, before it was dark, got over the shoals which lie at
+the entrance of the bay. During the whole course of our journey we were
+much pleased with the great good-will with which the <i>Toions</i> and their
+Kamtschadales afforded us their assistance at the different <i>ostrogs</i>
+through which we passed; and I could not but observe the pleasure that
+appeared in their countenances on seeing the major, and their strong
+expressions of sorrow, on hearing he was so soon going to leave them.
+
+<p>We had dispatched a messenger to Captain Clerke from Bolcheretsk, with an
+account of our reception, and of the major's intention of returning with
+us, at the same time apprising him of the day he might probably expect to
+see us. We were therefore very well pleased to observe, as we approached
+the harbour, all the boats of the two ships coming towards us, the men
+clean, and the officers as well dressed as the scarcity of our clothing
+would permit. The major was much struck at the robust and healthy
+appearance of the boats' crews, and still more at seeing most of them
+without any other covering than a shirt and trowsers, although at the very
+moment it actually snowed.
+
+<p>As Major Behm had expressed his intentions of visiting the ships before he
+landed, as soon as we arrived off the town, I desired to receive his
+commands; when remarking, that from the account we had given of the very
+bad state of Captain Clerke's health, it might be imprudent to disturb him
+at so late an hour, (it being now past nine o'clock,) he thought it, he
+said, most advisable to remain that night on shore. Accordingly, after
+attending him to the serjeant's house, I took my leave for the present, and
+went on board to acquaint Captain Clerke with my proceedings at
+Bolcheretsk. It was with the utmost concern I found, that, in the fortnight
+we had been absent, this excellent officer was much altered for the worse,
+instead of reaping that advantage we flattered ourselves he might from the
+repose of the harbour, and the milk and vegetable diet with which he was
+supplied.
+
+<p>As soon as I had dispatched this business, I returned to the major, and the
+next morning conducted him to the ships; where, on his arrival, he was
+saluted with thirteen guns, and received with every other mark of
+distinction that it was in our power to pay him. He was attended by the
+commander of one of the Russian galliots, the master of a sloop that lay in
+the harbour, two merchants from Bolcheretsk, and the priest of the
+neighbouring village of Paratounca, for whom he appeared to entertain the
+highest respect, and whom I shall hereafter have occasion to mention, on
+account of his great kindness to Captain Clerke.
+
+<p>After visiting the captain, and taking a view of both the ships, he
+returned to dinner on board the Resolution; and, in the afternoon, the
+various curiosities we had collected in the course of our voyage were shewn
+him, and a complete assortment of every article presented to him by Captain
+Clerke. On this occasion I must not pass over an instance of great
+generosity and gratitude in the sailors of both ships; who, when they were
+told of the handsome present of tobacco that was made them by the major,
+desired, entirely of their own accord, that their grog might be stopped,
+and their allowance of spirits presented, on their part, to the garrison of
+Bolcheretsk, as they said they had reason to conclude that brandy was
+scarce in the country, and would be very acceptable to them, since the
+soldiers on shore had offered four roubles a bottle for it. We, who knew
+how much the sailors always felt whenever their allowance of grog was
+stopped, which was generally done in warm weather, that they might have it
+in a greater proportion in cold, and that this offer would deprive them of
+it during the inclement season we had to expect in our next expedition to
+the north, could not but admire so extraordinary a sacrifice; and, that
+they might not suffer by it, Captain Clerke, and the rest of the officers,
+substituted in the room of the very small quantity the major could be
+prevailed on to accept, the same quantity of rum. This, with a dozen or two
+of Cape wine, for Madame Behm, and such other little presents as were in
+our power to bestow, were accepted in the most obliging manner. The next
+morning the tobacco was divided between the crews of the two ships, three
+pounds being allotted to every man that chewed or smoked tobacco, and one
+pound to those that did not.
+
+<p>I have before mentioned that Major Behm had resigned the command of
+Kamtschatka, and intended to set out in, a short time for Petersburg; and
+he now offered to charge himself with any dispatches we might trust to his
+care. This was an opportunity not to be neglected, and accordingly Captain
+Clerke acquainted him, that he would take the liberty of sending by him
+some papers relating to our voyage, to be delivered to our ambassador at
+the Russian court. Our first intentions were to send only a small journal
+of our proceedings; but, afterward, Captain Clerke being persuaded that the
+whole account of our discoveries might safely be trusted to a person who
+had given such striking proofs both of his public and private virtues; and
+considering that we had a very hazardous part of the voyage still to
+undertake, determined to send by him the whole of the journal of our late
+commander, with that part of his own which completed the period of Captain
+Cook's death till our arrival at Kamtschatka, together with a chart of all
+our discoveries. Mr Bayly and myself thought it also proper to send a
+general account of our proceedings to the Board of Longitude; by which
+precautions, if any misfortune had afterward befallen us, the Admiralty
+would have been in possession of a complete history of the principal facts
+of our voyage. It was also determined that a smaller packet should be sent
+by an express from Okotsk, which, the major said, if he was fortunate in
+his passage to that port, would reach Petersburg by December, and that he
+himself should be there in February or March.
+
+<p>During the three following days the major was entertained alternately in
+the two ships in the best manner we were able. On the 25th he took his
+leave, and was saluted with thirteen guns; and the sailors, at their own
+desire, gave him three cheers. The next morning, Mr Webber and myself
+attended him a few miles up the Awatska river, where we met the Russian
+priest, his wife and children, who were waiting to take the last farewell
+of their commander.
+
+<p>It was hard to say, whether the good priest and his family, or ourselves,
+were most affected on taking leave of Major Behm. Short as our acquaintance
+had been, his noble and disinterested conduct had inspired us with the
+highest respect and esteem for him; and we could not part with a person to
+whom we were under such obligations, and whom we had little prospect of
+ever seeing again, without feeling the most tender concern. The intrinsic
+value of the private presents we received from him, exclusive of the stores
+which might be carried to a public account, must have amounted, according
+to the current price of articles in that country, to upward of two hundred
+pounds. But this generosity, extraordinary as it must appear in itself, was
+exceeded by the delicacy with which all his favours were conferred, and the
+artful manner in which he endeavoured to prevent our feeling the weight of
+obligations, which he knew we had no means of requiting. If we go a step
+further, and consider him as supporting a public character, and maintaining
+the honour of a great sovereign, we shall find a still higher subject of
+admiration, in the just and enlarged sentiments by which he was actuated.
+"The service in which you are employed," he would often say, "is for the
+general advantage of mankind, and therefore gives you a right, not merely
+to the offices of humanity, but to the privileges of citizens, in whatever
+country you may be thrown. I am sure I am acting agreeably to the wishes of
+my mistress, in affording you all the relief in our power; and I cannot
+forget either her character, or my own honour, so much, as to barter for
+the performance of my duty." At other times he would tell us, that he was
+particularly desirous of setting a good example to the Kamtschadales, who,
+he said, were but just emerging from a state of barbarism; that they looked
+up to the Russians as their patterns in every thing; and that he had hopes
+they might in future look upon it as a duty incumbent upon them to assist
+strangers to the utmost of their power, and believe that such was the
+universal practice of civilized nations. To all this must be added, that
+after having relieved, to the utmost of his abilities, all our present
+distresses, he shewed himself not much less mindful of our future wants;
+and as he supposed it more than probable we should not discover the passage
+we were in search of, and therefore should return to Kamtschatka in the
+fall of the year, he made Captain Clerke give him a list of what cordage
+and flour we should want, and promised they should be sent from Okotsk, and
+wait our arrival. For the same purpose, he gave Captain Clerke a paper,
+enjoining all the subjects of the empress, whom we might happen to meet, to
+give us every assistance in their power.[20]
+
+<blockquote>[20] The reader need scarcely be reminded, that mention is made in the
+introduction to this voyage, of an honourable testimony of British
+gratitude for the extraordinary services of this generous man. Of his
+subsequent history, we regret to say, we are entirely ignorant.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>SECTION III.
+
+<p>Continuation of Transactions in the Harbour of St Peter and St
+Paul.--Abundance of Fish.--Death of a Seaman belonging to the
+Resolution.--The Russian Hospital put under the Care of the Ship's
+Surgeons.--Supply of Flour and Cattle.--Celebration of the King's
+Birth-day.--Difficulties in Sailing out of the Bay.--Eruption of a
+Volcano.--Steer to the Northward.--Cheepoonskoi Noss.--Errors of the
+Russian Charts.--Kamptschatskoi Noss.--Island of St Laurence.--View, from
+the same Point, of the Coasts of Asia and America, and the Islands of St
+Diomede.--Various Attempts to get to the North, between the two
+Continents.--Obstructed by Impenetrable Ice.--Sea-horses and White Bears
+killed.--Captain Clerke's Determination and future Designs.
+
+<p>Having concluded the last section with an account of our return from
+Bolcheretsk, accompanied by Major Behm, the commander of Kamtschatka, and
+of his departure, I shall proceed to relate the transactions that passed in
+the harbour of St Peter and St Paul during our absence. On the 7th of May,
+soon after we had left the bay, a large piece of ice drove across the cut-
+water of the Resolution, and brought home the small bower-anchor. This
+obliged them to weigh the other anchor, and moor again. The carpenters who
+were employed in stopping the leak, were obliged to take off a great part
+of the sheathing from the bows, and found many of the trunnels so very
+loose and rotten, as to be easily drawn out with the fingers.
+
+<p>On the 11th, they had heavy gales from the N.E., which obliged both the
+ships to strike yards and topmasts; but in the afternoon the weather being
+more moderate, and the ice having drifted away as far as the mouth of the
+harbour of St Peter and St Paul, they warped close to the shore for the
+greater convenience, of watering and wooding, and again moored as before;
+the town bearing N. 1/2 W., half a mile distant, and the mouth of the bay
+shut in by the southernmost point of Rakowina harbour, S.
+
+<p>The next day a party was sent on shore to cut wood, but made little
+progress on account of the snow, which still covered the ground. A
+convenient spot was cleared away abreast of the ships, where there was a
+fine run of water; and a tent being erected for the cooper, the empty casks
+were landed, and the sail-makers sent on shore.
+
+<p>On the 15th, the beach being clear of ice, the people were sent to haul the
+seine, and caught an abundant supply of fine flat fish for both the ships'
+companies. Indeed from this time, during the whole of our stay in the
+harbour, we were absolutely overpowered with the quantities of fish which
+came in from every quarter. The <i>Toions</i>, both of this town, and of
+Paratounca, a village in the neighbourhood, had received orders from Major
+Behm to employ all the Kamtschadales in our service; so that we frequently
+could not take into the ships the presents that were sent us. They
+consisted in general of fish, cod, trout, and herring. These last, which
+were in their full perfection, and of a delicious flavour, were exceedingly
+abundant in this bay. The Discovery's people surrounded at one time so
+great a quantity in their seine, that they were obliged to throw a vast
+number out, lest the net should be broken to pieces; and the cargo they
+landed was afterward so plentiful, that besides a sufficient store for
+immediate use, they filled as many casks as they could spare for salting;
+and after sending to the Resolution a sufficient quantity for the same
+purpose, they left several bushels behind on the beach.
+
+<p>The snow now began to disappear very rapidly, and abundance of wild garlic,
+celery, and nettle-tops, were gathered for the use of the crews; which
+being boiled with wheat and portable soup, made them a wholesome and
+comfortable breakfast; and with this they were supplied every morning. The
+birch-trees were also tapped, and the sweet juice, which they yielded in
+great quantities, was constantly mixed with the men's allowance of brandy.
+
+<p>The next day a small bullock, which had been procured for the ship's
+company by the serjeant, was killed; and weighed two hundred and seventy-
+two pounds. It was served out to both crews for their Sunday's dinner,
+being the first piece of fresh beef they had tasted since our departure
+from the Cape of Good Hope, in December 1776, a period of near two years
+and a half.
+
+<p>This evening died John Macintosh, the carpenter's mate, after having
+laboured under a dysentery ever since our departure from the Sandwich
+islands; he was a very hard working quiet man, and much regretted by his
+messmates. He was the fourth person we lost by sickness during the voyage;
+but the first who could be said, from his age and the constitutional habits
+of his body, to have had on our setting out an equal chance with the rest
+of his comrades; Watman, we supposed to be about sixty years of age, and
+Roberts and Mr Anderson, from the decay which had evidently commenced
+before we left England, could not, in all probability, under any
+circumstances, have lived a greater length of time than they did.
+
+<p>I have already mentioned, that Captain Clerke's health continued daily to
+decline, notwithstanding the salutary change of diet which the country of
+Kamtschatka afforded him. The priest of Paratounca, as soon as he heard of
+the infirm state he was in, supplied him every day with bread, milk, fresh
+butter, and fowls, though his house was sixteen miles from the harbour
+where we lay.
+
+<p>On our first arrival, we found the Russian hospital, which is near the town
+of St Peter and St Paul, in a condition truly deplorable. All the soldiers
+were, more or less, affected by the scurvy, and a great many in the last
+stage of that disorder. The rest of the Russian inhabitants were also in
+the same condition; and we particularly remarked, that our friend the
+serjeant, by making too free with the spirits we gave him, had brought on
+himself, in the course of a few days, some of the most alarming symptoms of
+that malady. In this lamentable state, Captain Clerke put them all under
+the care of our surgeons, and ordered a supply of sourkrout, and malt, for
+wort, to be furnished for their use. It was astonishing to observe the
+alteration in the figures of almost every person we met on our return from
+Bolcheretsk; and I was informed by our surgeons, that they attributed their
+speedy recovery principally to the effects of the sweetwort.[21]
+
+<blockquote>[21] Krusenstern substantially admits the correctness of Captain King's
+statement respecting the Russian hospital, &amp;c. by saying, expressively
+enough, things are not quite so bad at present. It is evident,
+however, from his remarks, that the change to the better is almost to
+the full amount of being imperceptible, notwithstanding the zeal of
+some individuals whose exertions he is anxious to eulogize, and his
+own disposition to believe that their well-meant exertions have not
+been entirely fruitless. The change, it would seem, consists in the
+greater quantities of medicine sent to Kamtschatka, and not in the
+greater practicability of judiciously applying them. This, most
+persons of discernment will shrewdly suspect, is several degrees worse
+than problematically a change to the better. At least one could
+scarcely help desiring rather to accept peaceably the warrant of a
+natural death, than to risk the enhancement of a conflict on the
+doubtful aid of a bungling doctor, whose chief recommendation,
+perhaps, if he would but allow himself to be favoured by it, consisted
+in his avowed ignorance securing his neutrality. In such a case,
+indeed, and it seems on the whole to be almost the very one which K.
+describes, it is obvious enough that the medicines can at least do no
+more harm than the bottles and boxes that contain them; but then one
+cannot easily perceive wherein consists the merit or utility of having
+provided them, unless, as in the instance of fire-arms hung over the
+chimney never to be loaded or fired, or in that of idols of wood and
+stone which adorn the temples of pagans, but which can neither receive
+nor bestow favours, we shall suppose that the imagination of some
+potential advantages is quite equivalent to the reality of their
+operation. Krusenstern has some sensible remarks on the proper method
+of supplying Kamtschatka with well-qualified physicians, but they are
+of course foreign to this place, and cannot, therefore, properly be
+introduced.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>On the 1st of June we got on board two hundred and fifty poods, or nine
+thousand pound weight of rye-flour, with which we were supplied from the
+stores of St Peter and St Paul; and the Discovery had a proportional
+quantity. The men were immediately put on full allowance of bread, which
+they had not been indulged in since our leaving the Cape of Good Hope. The
+same day our watering was completed, having got on board sixty-five tons.
+
+<p>On the 4th we had fresh breezes and hard rain, which disappointed us in our
+design of dressing the ships, and obliged us to content ourselves with
+firing twenty-one guns in honour of the day, and celebrating it in other
+respects in the best manner we were able. Port, who was left with us on
+account of his skill in languages, behaved himself with so much modesty and
+discretion, that as soon as his master was gone, he was no longer Jean
+Port, but Monsieur Port, the interpreter; and partook, as well as the
+serjeant (in his capacity of commander of the place), of the entertainment
+of the day. Our worthy friend, the priest of Paratounca, having got
+intelligence of its being our king's birth-day, gave also a sumptuous
+feast; at which some of our gentlemen were present, who seemed highly
+delighted with their entertainment, which consisted of abundance of good
+eating and drinking, together with dancing.
+
+<p>On the 6th, twenty head of cattle were sent us by the commander's orders,
+from the Verchnei <i>ostrog</i>, which is situated on the river Kamtschatka, at
+the distance of near a hundred miles from this place, in a direct line.
+They were of a moderate size; and, notwithstanding the Kamtschadales had
+been seventeen days in driving them down to the harbour, arrived in good
+condition. The four following days were employed in making ready for sea;
+and on the 11th, at two in the morning, we began to unmoor; but before we
+had got one anchor up, it blew so strong a gale from the N.E., that we kept
+fast, and moored again; conjecturing, from the position of the entrance of
+the bay, that the current of wind would set up the channel. Accordingly,
+the pinnace being sent out to examine the passage, returned with an
+account, that the wind blew strong from the S.E., with a great swell
+setting into the bay, which would have made any attempt to get to sea very
+hazardous.
+
+<p>Our friend Port now took his leave of us, and carried with him the box with
+our Journals, which was to go by the major, and the packet that was to be
+sent express. On the 12th, the weather being more moderate, we began to
+unmoor again; but, after breaking the messenger, and reeving a running
+purchase with a six-inch hawser, which also broke three times, we were
+obliged at last to heave a strain at low water, and wait for the flowing of
+the tide to raise the anchor. This project succeeded; but not without
+damaging the cable in the wake of the hawse. At three we weighed the best
+bower, and set sail; and at eight having little wind, and the tide making
+against us, we dropped anchor again in ten fathoms, off the mouth of
+Rakowina harbour; the <i>ostrog</i> bearing N. by E. 1/2 E., two miles and a
+half distant; the Needle Rocks on the east side of the passage, S.S.E. 1/2
+E.; and the high rock, on the west side of the passage, S.
+
+<p>On the 13th, at four in the morning, we got under way with the ebb tide;
+and there being a dead calm, the boats were sent ahead to tow the ships. At
+ten the wind springing up from the S.E. by S., and the tide having turned,
+we were again obliged to drop anchor in seven fathoms; the Three Needle
+Rocks bearing S. 1/2 E.; and the <i>ostrog</i> N. 1/2 E., at the distance of one
+mile from the nearest land. After dinner I went with Captain Gore on shore
+on the east side of the passage, where we saw, in two different places, the
+remains of extensive villages; and on the side of the hill an old ruined
+parapet, with four or five embrasures. It commanded the passage up the
+mouth of the bay; and in Beering's time, as he himself mentions, had guns
+mounted on it. Near this place were the ruins of some caverns under ground,
+which we supposed to have been magazines.
+
+<p>At six in the afternoon we weighed with the ebb tide, and turned to
+windward; but at eight a thick fog arising, we were obliged to bring-to, as
+our soundings could not afford us a sufficient direction for steering
+between several sunk rocks, which lie on each side of the passage we had to
+make. In the morning of the 14th, the fog clearing away, we weighed as soon
+as the tide began to ebb, and having little wind, sent the boats ahead to
+tow; but at ten o'clock, both the wind and tide set in so strong from the
+sea, that we were again obliged to drop anchor in thirteen fathoms, the
+high rock bearing W. 1/4 S., distant three quarters of a mile. We remained
+fast for the rest of the day, the wind blowing fresh into the mouth of the
+bay; and toward evening, the weather had a very unusual appearance, being
+exceedingly dark and cloudy, with an unsettled shifting wind.
+
+<p>Before day-light, on the 15th, we were surprised with a rumbling noise,
+resembling distant hollow thunder; and when the day broke, we found the
+decks and sides of the ships covered with a fine dust like emery, near an
+inch thick. The air at the same time continued loaded and darkened with
+this substance, and toward the <i>volcano</i> mountain, situated to the north of
+the harbour, it was so thick and black, that we could not distinguish the
+body of the hill. About twelve o'clock, and during the afternoon, the
+explosions became louder, and were followed by showers of cinders, which
+were in general about the size of peas; though many were picked up from the
+deck larger than a hazel-nut. Along with the cinders fell several small
+stones, which had undergone no change from the action of fire. In the
+evening we had dreadful thunder and lightning, which, with the darkness of
+the atmosphere, and the sulphureous smell of the air, produced altogether a
+most awful and terrifying effect. We were at this time about eight leagues
+from the foot of the mountain.
+
+<p>On the 16th, at day-light, we again weighed anchor, and stood out of the
+bay; but the ebb tide setting across the passage upon the eastern shore,
+and the wind falling, we were driven very near the Three Needle Rocks,
+which lie on that side of the entrance, and obliged to hoist out the boats,
+in order to tow the ships clear of them. At noon we were two leagues from
+the land, and had soundings with forty-three fathoms of line, over a bottom
+of small stones, of the same kind with those which fell on our decks after
+the eruption of the <i>volcano</i>; but whether they had been, left there by the
+last, or by some former eruptions, we were not able to determine.
+
+<p>The aspect of the country was now very different from what it had been on
+our first arrival. The snow, excepting what remained on the tops of some
+very high mountains, had disappeared; and the sides of the hills, which in
+many parts were well wooded, were covered with a beautiful verdure.
+
+<p>As it was Captain Clerke's intention to keep as much in sight of the coast
+of Kamtschatka as the weather would permit, in order to determine its
+position, we continued steering to the N.N.E, with light and variable winds
+till the 18th. The <i>volcano</i> was still seen throwing up immense volumes of
+smoke, and we had no soundings with one hundred and fifty fathoms, at the
+distance of four leagues from the shore.
+
+<p>On the 18th, the wind freshening from the south, the weather became so
+thick and hazy, as to make it imprudent to attempt any longer to keep in
+sight of the land. But that we might be ready to resume our survey,
+whenever the fogs should disperse, we ran on in the direction of the coast,
+as laid down in the Russian charts, and fired signal guns for the Discovery
+to steer the same course. At eleven o'clock, just before we lost sight of
+the land, Cheepoonskoi Noss, so called by the Russians, (a description of
+which, as well as the coast between it and Awatska Bay, will be given,
+hereafter), bore N.N.E., distant seven or eight leagues.
+
+<p>On the 20th, at three in the morning, the weather having cleared up, we
+stood in toward the land; and in an hour's time saw it ahead, extending
+from N.W. to N.N.E., distant about five leagues. The north part we took to
+be Kronotskoi Noss; its position in the Russian charts agreeing nearly with
+our reckoning as to its latitude, which was 54° 42'; but in longitude we
+differed from them considerably, they placing it 1° 48' E. of Awatska;
+whereas our reckoning, corrected by the time-keepers and lunar
+observations, makes it 3° 34' eastward of that place, or 162° 17' E. from
+Greenwich. The land about this cape is very high, and the inland mountains
+were still covered with snow. The shore breaks off in steep cliffs, and the
+coast is without appearance of inlets or bays. We had not been long
+gratified with this sight of the land, when the Wind freshened from the
+S.W., and brought on a thick fog, which obliged us to stand off to the
+N.E.by E. The weather clearing up again at noon, we steered toward the
+land, expecting to fall in with Kamtschatskoi Noss, and had sight of it at
+day-break of the 21st.
+
+<p>The southerly wind was soon after succeeded by a light breeze blowing off
+the land, which prevented our approaching the coast sufficiently near to
+describe its aspect, or ascertain with accuracy its direction. At noon our
+latitude, by observation, was 55° 52', and longitude (deduced from a
+comparison of many lunar observations, taken near this time, with the time-
+keepers), 163° 50'; the extremities of the land bearing N.W. by W. 3/4 W.,
+and N. by W. 3/4 W., the nearest part about eight leagues distant. At nine
+o'clock in the evening, having approached about two leagues nearer the
+coast, we found it formed a projecting peninsula, extending about twelve
+leagues in a direction nearly north and south. It is level, and of a
+moderate height, the southern extremity terminating in a low sloping point;
+that to the north forming a steep bluff head; and between them, about four
+leagues to the southward of the northern cape, there is a considerable
+break in the land. On each side of this break the land is quite low; beyond
+the opening rises a remarkable saddle-like hill; and a chain of high
+mountains, covered with snow, ranges along the back of the whole peninsula.
+
+<p>As the coast runs in an even direction, we were at a great loss where to
+place Kamtschatskoi Noss, which, according to Muller, forms a projecting
+point about the middle of the peninsula, and which certainly does not
+exist; but I have since found, that in the general map published by the
+Academy of Petersburgh in 1776, that name is given to the southern cape.
+This was found, by several accurate observations, to be in latitude 56° 3',
+longitude 163° 20'; the difference, in longitude, from the Russian charts,
+being the same as at Kronotskoi Noss. The variation of the compass at this
+time was 10° E. To the southward of this peninsula, the great river
+Kamtschatka falls into the sea.
+
+<p>As the season was too far advanced to admit of our making an accurate
+survey of the coast of Kamtschatka, it was Captain Clerke's plan, in our
+run to Beering'a Strait, to determine principally the positions of the
+projecting points of the coast. We therefore directed our course across an
+extensive bay, laid down between Kamtschatskoi Noss and Olutorskoi Noss,
+intending to make the latter; which, according to the Russian geographers,
+terminates the peninsula called Kamtschatka, and becomes the southern
+boundary of the Koriaki country.
+
+<p>On the 22d we passed a dead whale, which emitted a horrid stench,
+perceivable at upward of a league's distance; it was covered with a great
+number of sea-birds, that were feasting on it.
+
+<p>On the 24th, the wind, which had varied round the compass the three
+preceding days, fixed at S.W., and brought clear weather, with which we
+continued our course to the N.E. by N. across the bay, without any land in
+sight.
+
+<p>This day we saw a great number of gulls, and were witnesses to the
+disgusting mode of feeding of the arctic gull, which has procured it the
+name of the parasite; and which, if the reader is not already acquainted
+with it, he will find in the note below.[22]
+
+<blockquote>[22] This bird, which is somewhat larger than the common gull, pursues the
+latter kind whenever it meets them; the gull, after flying for some
+time, with loud screams, and evident marks of great terror, drops its
+dung, which its pursuer immediately darts at, and catches before it
+falls into the sea.</blockquote>
+
+<p>On the 25th, at one o'clock in the afternoon, being in latitude 59° 12',
+longitude 168° 35', the wind freshening from the same quarter, a thick fog
+succeeded; and this unfortunately just at the time we expected to see
+Olutorskoi Noss, which, if Muller places it right in latitude 59° 3O', and
+in longitude 167°36', could only have then been twelve leagues from us; at
+which distance, land of a moderate height might easily have been seen. But
+if the same error in longitude prevails here, which we have hitherto
+invariably found, it would have been much nearer us, even before the fog
+came on; and as we saw no appearances of land at that time, it must either
+have been very low, or there must be some mistake of latitude in Muller's
+account. We tried soundings, but had no ground with one hundred and sixty
+fathoms of line.
+
+<p>The weather still thickening, and preventing a nearer approach to the land,
+at five we steered E. by N., which is somewhat more easterly than the
+Russian charts lay down the trending of the coast from Olutorskoi Noss. The
+next day we had a fresh gale from the S.W., which lasted till the 27th at
+noon, when the fogs clearing away, we stood to the northward, in order to
+make the land. The latitude at noon, by observation, was 59° 49', longitude
+175° 43'. Notwithstanding we saw shags in the forenoon, which are supposed
+never to go far from land, yet there was no appearance of it this day; but
+on the 28th, at six in the morning, we got sight of it to the N.W. The
+coast shews itself in hills of a moderate height; but inland, others are
+seen to rise considerably. We could observe no wood, and the snow lying
+upon them in patches, gave the whole a very barren appearance. At nine we
+were about ten miles from the shore, the southern extremity bearing W. by
+S., six leagues distant, beyond which the coast appeared to trend to the
+westward. This point being in latitude 61° 48', longitude 174°, 48', lies,
+according to the Russian charts, near the mouth of the river Opuka. At the
+same time the northern extreme bore N. by W.; between which and a hill
+bearing N.W. by W. 1/4 W., and at this distance appearing to us like an
+island, the coast seemed to bend to the westward, and form a deep bay.
+
+<p>About eight miles from land, we perceived ourselves in a strong rippling;
+and being apprehensive of foul ground, we bore away to the N.E., along the
+shore; notwithstanding, on heaving the lead, we found regular soundings of
+twenty-four fathoms, over a gravelly bottom; from whence we concluded, that
+this appearance was occasioned by a tide, at that time running to the
+southward. At noon, the extremes of the land bearing W.S.W. 3/4 W., and
+N.N.E. 3/4 E., distant from the nearest shore four leagues, we were abreast
+of the low land, which we now perceived to join the two points, where we
+had before expected to find a deep bay. The coast bends a little to the
+westward, and has a small inlet, which may probably be the mouth of some
+trifling stream. Our latitude, by observation, was 61° 56', and longitude
+175° 43', and the variation of the compass 17° 30' E.
+
+<p>We continued during the afternoon to run along the shore, at the distance
+of four or five leagues, with a moderate westerly breeze, carrying regular
+soundings from twenty-eight to thirty-six fathoms. The coast presented the
+same barren aspect as to the southward; the hills rising considerably
+inland, but to what height, the clouds on their tops put it out of our
+power to determine. At eight in the evening, land was thought to have been
+seen to the E. by N., on which, we steered to the southward of E.; but it
+turned out to be only a fog-bank. At midnight, the extreme point bearing
+N.E. 1/4 E., we supposed it to be Saint Thadeus's Noss; to the southward of
+which the land trends to the westward, and forms a deep bight, wherein,
+according to the Russian charts, lies the river Katirka.
+
+<p>On the 29th, the weather was unsettled and variable, with the wind from the
+N.E. At noon of the 30th, our latitude, by observation, was 61° 48', and
+longitude 180° 0'; at which time Saint Thadeus's Noss bore N.N.W., twenty-
+three leagues distant, and beyond it we observed the coast stretching
+almost directly N. The most easterly point of the Noss is in latitude 62°
+50', and longitude 179° 0', being 3-1/2° more to the E. than what the
+Russians make it. The land about it must be of a considerable height, from
+its being seen at so great a distance. During the two last days, we saw
+numbers of whales, large seals, and sea-horses; also gulls, sea-parrots,
+and albatrosses. We took the advantage of a little calm weather to try for
+fish, and caught abundance of fine cod. The depth of water from sixty-five
+to seventy-five fathoms.
+
+<p>On the 1st of July at noon, Mr Bligh having moored a small keg with the
+deep-sea lead, in seventy-five fathoms, found the ship made a course N. by
+E., half a mile an hour. This he attributed to the effect of a long
+southerly swell, and not to that of any current. The wind freshening from
+the S.E. toward evening, we shaped our course to the N.E. by E., for the
+point called in Beering's chart Tschukotskoi Noss, which we had observed on
+the 4th of September last year, at the same time that we saw, to the S E.,
+the island of Saint Laurence. This cape, and Saint Thadeus's Noss, form the
+N.E. and S.W. extremities of the large and deep gulph of Anadir, into the
+bottom of which the river of that name empties itself, dividing as it
+passes the country of the Koriacs from that of the Tschutski.
+
+<p>On the 3d at noon, the latitude, by observation, was 63° 33', and the
+longitude 186° 45'; half an hour after which we got sight of the
+Tschukotskoi Noss, bearing N. 1/2 W., thirteen or fourteen leagues distant;
+and at five in the afternoon saw the island of Saint Laurence, bearing E.
+3/4 N.; and another island a little to the eastward of it, which we
+supposed to be between Saint Laurence and Anderson's Island, about six
+leagues E.S.E. of the former. As we had no certain accounts of this island,
+Captain Clerke was desirous of a nearer prospect, and immediately hauled
+the wind toward it; but unfortunately we were not able to weather the
+island of Saint Laurence, and were therefore under the necessity of bearing
+up again, and passing them all to the leeward.
+
+<p>We had a better opportunity of settling the longitude of the island Saint
+Laurence, when we last saw it than now. But seeing it at that time but
+once, and to the southward, we could only determine its latitude so far as
+we could judge of distances; whereas now the noon observations enabled us
+to ascertain it correctly, which is 63° 47'. Its longitude was found to be
+188° 15' as before. This island, if its boundaries were at this time within
+our view, is about three leagues in circuit. The north part may be seen at
+the distance of ten or twelve leagues; but as it falls in lowland to the
+south-east, the extent of which we could not see, some of us conjectured
+that it might probably be joined to the land to the eastward of it; this,
+however, the haziness of the weather prevented our ascertaining. These
+islands, as well as the land about the Tschukotskoi Noss, were covered with
+snow, and presented us with a most dreary picture. At midnight, Saint
+Laurence bore S.S.E., five or six miles distant; and our depth of water was
+eighteen fathoms. We were accompanied by various kinds of sea-fowl, and saw
+several small crested hawks.
+
+<p>The weather still continuing to thicken, we lost all sight of land till the
+5th, when it appeared both to the N.E. and N.W, Our latitude, by account,
+was at this time 65° 24', longitude 189° 14'. As the islands of Saint
+Diomede, which lie between the two continents in Beering's strait, were
+determined by us last year to be in latitude 65° 48', we could not
+reconcile the land to the N.E., with the situation of these islands. We
+therefore stood toward the land till three in the afternoon, when we were
+within four miles of it, and finding it to be two islands, were pretty well
+satisfied of their being the same; but the weather still continuing hazy,
+to make sure of our situation, we stood over to the coast of Asia till
+seven in the evening; at which time we were within two or three leagues of
+the east cape of that continent.
+
+<p>This cape is a high round head of land, extending four or five miles from
+north to south, forming a peninsula, and connected with the continent by a
+narrow neck of low land. Its shore is bold, and off its north part are
+three high, detached, spiral rocks. At this time it was covered with snow,
+and the beach surrounded with ice. We were now convinced, that we had been
+under the influence of a strong current, setting to the north, that had
+caused an error in our latitude at noon of twenty miles. In passing this
+strait the last year, we had experienced the same effect.
+
+<p>Being at length sure of our position, we held on to the N. by E. At ten at
+night the weather becoming clear, we had an opportunity of seeing, at the
+same moment, the remarkable peaked hill, near Cape Prince of Wales, on the
+coast of America, and the east cape of Asia, with the two connecting
+islands of Saint Diomede between them.[23]
+
+<blockquote>[23] The distance betwixt the two remarkable points now specified, it will
+be proper for the reader to remember, is estimated at 13 leagues, or
+about 40 miles, being the nearest approach of the two continents of
+Asia and America yet ascertained.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>At noon on the 6th, the latitude, by account, was 67° N., and the longitude
+191° 6' E. Having already passed a considerable number of large masses of
+ice, and observed that it still adhered in several places to the shore on
+the continent of Asia, we were not much surprised to fall in, at three in
+the afternoon, with an extensive body of it, stretching away to the
+westward. This sight gave great discouragement to our hopes of advancing
+much farther northward this year, than we had done the preceding.
+
+<p>Having little wind in the afternoon, we hoisted out the boats in pursuit of
+the sea-horses, which were in great numbers on the detached pieces of ice;
+but they soon returned without success; these animals being exceedingly
+shy, and before they could come within gun-shot always making their retreat
+into the water.
+
+<p>At seven in the evening we hoisted in the boats, and the wind freshening
+from the southward, we stood on to the N.E., with a view of exploring the
+continent of America, between the latitudes of 68° and 69°, which,
+owing to the foggy weather last year, we had not been able to examine. In
+this attempt we were again in part disappointed. For on the 7th, at six in
+the morning, we were stopped by a large field of ice, stretching from N.W.
+to S.E.; but soon after, the horizon becoming clear, we had sight of the
+coast of America, at about ten leagues distance, extending from N.E. by E.
+to E., and lying, by observation, between the 68° and 68° 20' of latitude.
+As the weather was clear, and the ice not high, we were enabled to see over
+a great extent of it. The whole presented a solid and compact surface, not
+in the smallest degree thawed; and appeared to us likewise to adhere to the
+land.
+
+<p>The weather soon after changing to hazy, we saw no more of the land; and
+there not remaining a possibility of approaching nearer to it, we stood to
+the N.N.W., keeping the ice close on board, and got round its western
+extremity by noon, when we found it trending nearly N. Our latitude at this
+time was, by account, 68° 22', and longitude 192° 34'. We continued our
+course to the N.N.E., along the edge of the ice, during the remaining part
+of the day, passing through many loose pieces that had been broken, off
+from the main body, and against which, notwithstanding all our caution, the
+ships were driven with great violence. At eight o'clock in the evening, we
+passed some drift-wood; and at midnight the wind shifted to the N.W., the
+thermometer fell from 38° to 31', and we had continued showers of snow and
+sleet.
+
+<p>On the 8th at five in the morning, the wind coming still more to the
+northward, we could no longer keep on the same tack, on account of the ice,
+but were obliged to stand to the westward. At this time our soundings had
+decreased to nineteen fathoms, from which, on comparing it with our
+observations on the depth of water last year, we concluded that we were not
+at a greater distance from the American shore than six or seven leagues;
+but our view was confined within a much shorter compass, by a violent fall
+of snow. At noon, the latitude, by account, was 69° 21', longitude 192°
+42'. At two in the afternoon the weather cleared up, and we found ourselves
+close to an expanse of what appeared from the deck solid ice; but, from the
+mast-head, it was discovered to be composed of huge compact bodies, close
+and united toward the outer edge, but in the interior parts several
+pieces were seen floating in vacant spaces of the water. It extended from
+N.E. by the N. to W.S.W. We bore away by the edge of it to the southward,
+that we might get into clearer water; for the strong northerly winds had
+drifted down such quantities of loose pieces, that we had been for some
+time surrounded by them, and could not avoid striking against several,
+notwithstanding we reefed the topsails, and stood under an easy sail.
+
+<p>On the 9th we had a fresh gale from the N.N.W., with heavy showers of snow
+and sleet. The thermometer was in the night time 28°, and at noon 30°. We
+continued to steer W.S.W., as before, keeping as near the large body of ice
+as we could, and had the misfortune to rub off some of the sheathing from
+the bows against the drift pieces, and to damage the cutwater. Indeed, the
+shocks we could not avoid receiving, were frequently so severe, as to be
+attended with considerable danger. At noon, the latitude, by account, was
+69° 12',. and longitude 188° 5'. The variation in the afternoon was found
+to be 29° 30' E.
+
+<p>As we had now sailed near forty leagues to the westward, along the edge of
+the ice, without seeing any opening, or a clear sea to the northward beyond
+it, and had therefore no prospect of advancing farther N. for the present,
+Captain Clerke resolved to bear away to the S. by E. (the only quarter that
+was clear), and to wait till the season was more advanced, before he made
+any farther efforts to penetrate through the ice. The intermediate time he
+proposed to spend in examining the bay of Saint Laurence, and the coast to
+the southward of it; as a harbour so near, in case of future damage from
+the ice, would be very desirable. We also wished to pay another visit to
+our Tschutski friends; and particularly since the accounts we had heard of
+them from the commander of Kamtschatka.
+
+<p>We therefore stood on to the southward, till the noon of the 10th, at which
+time we passed great quantities of drift-ice, and the wind fell to a
+perfect calm. The latitude, by observation, was 68° 1', longitude 188° 30'.
+We passed several whales in the forenoon, and in the afternoon hoisted out
+the boats, and sent them in pursuit of the sea-horses, which were in great
+numbers on the pieces of ice that surrounded us. Our people were more
+successful than they had been before, returning with three large ones and a
+young one; besides killing and wounding several others. The gentlemen who
+went on this party were witnesses of several remarkable instances of
+parental affection in those animals. On the approach of our boats toward
+the ice, they all took their cubs under their fins, and endeavoured to
+escape with them into the sea. Several, whose young were killed or wounded,
+and left floating on the surface, rose again, and carried them down,
+sometimes just as our people were going to take them up into the boat; and
+might be traced bearing them to a great distance through the water, which
+was coloured with their blood; we afterward observed them bringing them at
+times above the surface, as if for air, and again diving under it with a
+dreadful bellowing. The female, in particular, whose young had been
+destroyed, and taken into the boat, became so enraged, that she attacked
+the cutter, and struck her two tusks through the bottom of it.
+
+<p>At eight in the evening, a breeze sprang up to the eastward, with which we
+still continued our course to the southward, and at twelve fell in with
+numerous large bodies of ice. We endeavoured to push through them with an
+easy sail, for fear of damaging the ship; and having got a little farther
+to the southward, nothing was to be seen but one compact field of ice,
+stretching to the S.W., S.E., and N.E., as far as the eye could reach. This
+unexpected and formidable obstacle put an end to Captain Clerke's plan of
+visiting the Tschutski; for no space remained open, but back again to the
+northward. Accordingly, at three in the morning of the 11th, we tacked, and
+stood to that quarter. At noon, the latitude, by observation, was 67° 49',
+and longitude 188° 47'.
+
+<p>On the 12th, we had light winds, with thick hazy weather; and on trying the
+current, we found it set to the N.W., at the rate of half a knot an hour.
+We continued to steer northward, with a moderate southerly breeze and fair
+weather till the 13th, at ten in the forenoon, when we again found
+ourselves close in with a solid field of ice, to which we could see no
+limits from the mast-head. This at once dashed all our hopes of penetrating
+farther, which had been considerably raised, by having now advanced near
+ten leagues through a space, which on the 9th we had found occupied by
+impenetrable ice. Our latitude at this time was 69° 37'; our position
+nearly in the mid-channel between tween the two continents; and the field
+of ice extending from E.N.E. to W.S.W.
+
+<p>As there did not remain the smallest prospect of getting farther north in
+the part of the sea where we now were, Captain Clerke resolved to make one
+more and final attempt on the American coast, for Baffin's Bay, since we
+had been able to advance the farthest on this side last year. Accordingly
+we kept working the remaining part of the day to the windward, with a fresh
+easterly breeze. We saw several fulmars and arctic gulls, and passed two
+trees, both appearing to have lain in the water a long time. The larger was
+about ten feet in length, and three in circumference, without either bark
+or branches, but with the roots remaining attached.
+
+<p>On the 14th, we stood on to the eastward, with thick and foggy weather, our
+course being nearly parallel to that we steered the 8th and 9th, but six
+leagues more to the northward. On the 15th, the wind freshened from the
+westward, and having in a great measure dispersed the fog, we immediately
+stood to the northward, that we might take a nearer view of the ice; and in
+an hour were close in with it, extending from N.N.W. to N.E. We found it to
+be compact and solid; the outer parts were ragged, and of different
+heights; the interior surface was even, and we judged from eight to ten
+feet above the level of the sea. The weather becoming moderate for the
+remaining part of the day, we directed our course according to the trending
+of the ice, which in many parts formed deep bays.
+
+<p>In the morning of the 16th the wind freshened, and was attended with thick
+and frequent showers of snow. At eight in the forenoon, it blew a strong
+gale from the W.S.W., and brought us under double-reefed top-sails; when
+the weather clearing a little, we found ourselves embayed, the ice having
+taken a sudden turn to the S.E., and in one compact body surrounding us on
+all sides, except on the south quarter. We therefore hauled our wind to the
+southward, being at this time in latitude 70° 8' N., and in twenty-six
+fathoms water; and, as we supposed, about twenty-five leagues from the
+coast of America. The gale increasing, at four in the afternoon we close
+reefed the fore and main top-sails, furled the mizen-top-sail, and got the
+top-gallant-yards down upon deck. At eight, finding the depth of water had
+decreased to twenty-two fathoms, which we considered as a proof of
+our near approach to the American coast, we tacked and stood to the north.
+We had blowing weather, accompanied with snow, through the night; but next
+morning it became clear and moderate, and at eight in the forenoon we got
+the top-gallant yards across, and made sail with the wind still at W.S.W.
+At noon we were in latitude, by observation, 69° 55', longitude 194° 30'.
+Toward evening the wind slackened, and at midnight it was a calm.
+
+<p>On the 18th, at five in the morning, a light breeze sprung up from the
+E.N.E., with which we continued our course to the north, in order to regain
+the ice as soon as possible. We passed some small logs of drift-wood, and
+saw abundance of sea-parrots, and the small ice-birds, and likewise a
+number of whales. At noon the latitude, by observation, was 70° 26', and
+longitude 194° 54'; the depth of water twenty-three fathoms; the ice
+stretched from N. to E.N.E., and was distant about three miles. At one in
+the afternoon, finding that we were close in with a firm united field of
+it, extending from W.N.W. to E., we tacked, and the wind coming round to
+the westward, stood on to the eastward, along its edge, till eleven at
+night. At that time a very thick fog coming on, and the water shoaling to
+nineteen fathoms, we hauled our wind to the south. The variation observed
+this day was 31° 20' E. It is remarkable, that though we saw no sea-horses
+on the body of the ice, yet they were in herds, and in greater numbers on
+the detached fragments, than we had ever observed before. About nine in the
+evening, a white bear was seen swimming close by the Discovery; it
+afterward made to the ice, on which were also two others.
+
+<p>On the 19th, at one in the morning, the weather clearing up, we again
+steered to the N.E. till two, when we were a second time so completely
+embayed, that there was no opening left but to the south; to which quarter
+we accordingly directed our course, returning through a remarkably smooth
+water, and with very favourable weather, by the same way we had come in. We
+were never able to penetrate farther north than at this time, when our
+latitude was 70° 33'; and this was five leagues short of the point to which
+we advanced last season. We held on to the S.S.W., with light winds from
+the N.W., by the edge of the main ice, which lay on our left hand, and
+stretched between us and the continent of America. Our latitude, by
+observation at noon, was 70° 11', our longitude 196° 15', and the depth of
+water sixteen fathoms. From this circumstance, we judged that the Icy Cape
+was now only at seven or eight leagues distance; but though the weather was
+in general clear, it was at the same time hazy in the horizon; so that we
+could not expect to see it.[24]
+
+<blockquote>[24] Captain Cook then must still be allowed to have succeeded in getting
+farther towards the north in this ocean, than any other navigator.
+For, from the date of this voyage up to the present period, so far at
+least as has been published, no one has surpassed the limit of his
+examination. But it is obvious, from the very circumstance of the
+difference betwixt the two attempts recorded in this voyage, that a
+considerable variation in the state and intensity of the obstructing
+cause may occur in various years. There is a probability then, that a
+still greater difference might be experienced, affording a practicable
+opportunity of getting still more towards the north than in either of
+them. How far this probability, not a great one, as Captain King
+afterwards suggests, ought to be considered, or how far the
+expectation of any benefit arising from it, ought to influence in
+directing another similar undertaking, it is not the province of this
+work to speculate. But one cannot help remarking, that the Russian
+government at least, might not be injudiciously employed in ordering
+one or more vessels, properly fitted up, to be kept in readiness at
+some port in this distant region of the empire, to take advantage of
+any season more suitable than another, for prosecuting the enterprise.
+Nay, is it not far from being romantic to imagine, that the two
+friendly powers of Russia and Great Britain might actually find a
+reward, in the promotion of their mutual interest, by a joint and
+well-concerted plan for opening up a communication by any means
+betwixt the North Pacific and North Atlantic Oceans? Both of them, one
+should suppose, must be sensible, that the zeal of their intermediate
+neighbour (if the expression may be used) the Americans, to discover
+the practicability of a connexion, and of course to establish one
+betwixt the opposite sides of the new continent, is not likely to
+prove altogether fruitless, though perhaps there are still more
+formidable difficulties in the way of its exercise. A little time will
+probably demonstrate, that these politic republicans have not in vain
+emulated the enterprising spirit, or commercial sagacity of the parent
+state; and that neither of the other governments just now mentioned,
+has fully profited of all the advantages which its possessions have
+continued to hold out.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>In the afternoon we saw two white bears in the water, to which we
+immediately gave chase in the jolly-boat, and had the good fortune to kill
+them both. The larger, which probably was the dam of the younger, being
+shot first, the other would not quit it, though it might easily have
+escaped on the ice whilst the men were reloading, but remained swimming
+about, till after being fired upon several times, it was shot dead.
+
+<p>The dimensions of the larger were as follow:
+
+<pre>
+                                                  Ft. In.
+
+From the snout to the end of the tail              7   2
+From the snout to the shoulder-bone                2   3
+Height of the shoulder                             4   3
+Circumference near the fore-legs                   4  10
+Breadth of the fore-paw                               10
+
+                                                  lb.
+Weight of the four quarters                      436
+Weight of the four quarters of the smallest      256
+
+</pre>
+
+<p>On comparing the dimensions of this with Lord Mulgrave's white bear, they
+were found almost exactly the same, except in the circumference, where
+our's fell exceedingly short.
+
+<p>These animals afforded us a few excellent meals of fresh meat. The flesh
+had, indeed, a strong filthy taste, but was, in every respect infinitely
+superior to that of the sea-horse; which nevertheless our people were again
+persuaded, without much difficulty, to prefer to their salted provisions.
+
+<p>At six in the morning of the 20th, a thick fog coming on, we lost sight of
+the ice for two hours; but the weather clearing, we saw the main body again
+to the S.S.E., when we hauled our wind, which was easterly, toward it, in
+the expectation of making the American coast to the S.E., and which we
+effected at half past ten. At noon, the latitude, by account, was 69° 33',
+and longitude 194° 53', and the depth of water nineteen fathoms. The land
+extended from S. by E. to S.S.W. 1/2 W., distant eight or ten leagues,
+being the same we had seen last year; but it was now much more covered with
+snow than at that time, and to all appearance the ice adhered to the shore.
+We continued in the afternoon sailing through a sea of loose ice, and
+standing toward the land, as near as the wind, which was E.S.E., would
+admit. At eight the wind lessening, there came on a thick fog, and on
+perceiving a rippling in the water, we tried the current, which we found to
+set to the E.N.E., at the rate of a mile an hour, and therefore determined
+to steer during the night before the wind, in order to stem it, and to
+oppose the large fragments of loose ice that were setting us on toward the
+land. The depth of the water at midnight was twenty fathoms.
+
+<p>At eight in the morning of the 21st, the wind freshening, and the fog
+clearing away, we saw the American coast to the S.E., at the distance of
+eight or ten leagues, and hauled in for it; but were stopped again by the
+ice, and obliged to bear away to the westward, along the edge of it. At
+noon, the latitude, by account, was 69° 34', and longitude 193°, and the
+depth of water twenty-four fathoms.
+
+<p>Thus a connected solid field of ice, rendering every effort we could make
+to a nearer approach to the land fruitless, and joining as we judged to it,
+we took a last farewell of a N.E passage to Old England. I shall beg leave
+to give, in Captain Clerke's own words, the reasons of this his final
+determination, as well as of his future plans; and this the rather, as it
+is the last transaction his health permitted him to write down.
+
+<p>"It is now impossible to proceed the least farther to the northward upon
+this coast (America); and it is equally as improbable that this amazing
+mass of ice should be dissolved by the few remaining summer-weeks which
+will terminate this season; but it will continue, it is to be believed, as
+it now is, an insurmountable barrier to every attempt we can possibly make.
+I therefore think it the best step that can be taken, for the good of the
+service, to trace the sea over to the Asiatic coast, and to try if I can
+find any opening, that will admit me farther north; if not, to see what
+more is to be done upon that coast; where I hope, yet cannot much flatter
+myself, to meet with better success; for the sea is now so choaked with
+ice, that a passage, I fear, is totally out of the question."
+
+<p>SECTION IV.
+
+<p>Fruitless Attempts to penetrate through the Ice to the North-West.--
+Dangerous Situation of the Discovery.--Sea-horses killed.--Fresh
+Obstructions from the Ice.--Report of Damages received by the Discovery.--
+Captain Clerke's Determination to proceed to the Southward.--Joy of the
+Ships' Crews on that Occasion.--Pass Serdze Kamen.--Return through
+Beering's Strait.--Enquiry into the Extent of the North-East Coast of
+Asia.--Reasons for rejecting Muller's Map of the Promontory of the
+Tschutski.--Reasons for believing the Coast does not reach a higher
+Latitude than 70-1/2° North.--General Observations on the Impracticability
+of a North-East or North-West Passage from the Atlantic into the Pacific
+Ocean.--Comparative View of the Progress made in the Years 1778 and
+1779.--Remarks on the Sea and Sea-coasts, North of Beering's
+Strait.--History of the Voyage resumed.--Pass the Island of St
+Laurence.--The Island of Mednoi.--Death of Captain Clerke.--Short Account
+of his Services.
+
+<p>Captain Clerke having determined, for the reasons assigned, to give up all
+farther attempts on the coast of America, and to make his last efforts in
+search of a passage on the coast of the opposite continent, we continued
+during the afternoon of the 21st of July, to steer to the W.N.W., through
+much loose ice. At ten at night, discovering the main body of it through
+the fog, right ahead, and almost close to us, and being unwilling to take a
+southerly course so long as we could possibly avoid it, we hauled our wind,
+which was easterly, and stood to the northward; but in an hour after, the
+weather clearing up, and finding ourselves surrounded by a compact field of
+ice on every side, except to the S.S.W., we tacked and stood on in that
+direction, in order to get clear of it.
+
+<p>At noon of the 22d, our latitude, by observation, was 69° 30', and
+longitude 187° 30'. In the afternoon we again came up with the ice, which
+extended to the N.W. and S.W., and obliged us to continue our course to the
+southward, in order to weather it.
+
+<p>It may be remarked, that, since the 8th of this month, we had twice
+traversed this sea, in lines nearly parallel with the run we had just now
+made; that in the first of those traverses we were not able to penetrate so
+far north, by eight or ten leagues, as in the second; and that in the last
+we had again found an united body of ice, generally about five leagues to
+the southward of its position in the preceding run. As this proves that the
+large compact fields of ice, which we saw, were moveable, or diminishing,
+at the same time, it does not leave any well-founded expectations of
+advancing much farther in the most favourable seasons.
+
+<p>At seven in the evening, the weather being hazy, and no ice in sight, we
+bore away to the westward; but at half past eight the fog dispersing, we
+found ourselves in the midst of loose ice, and close in with the main body;
+we therefore stood upon a wind, which was still easterly, and kept beating
+to windward during the night, in hopes of weathering the loose pieces,
+which the freshness of the wind kept driving down upon us in such
+quantities, that we were in manifest danger of being blocked up by them.
+
+<p>In the morning of the 23d, the clear water, in which we continued to stand
+to and fro, did not exceed a mile and a half, and was every instant
+lessening. At length, after using our utmost endeavours to clear the loose
+ice, we were driven to the necessity of forcing the passage to the
+southward, which at half past seven we accomplished, but not without
+subjecting the ship to some very severe shocks. The Discovery was less
+successful. For at eleven, when they had nigh got clear out, she became so
+entangled by several large pieces, that her way was stopped, and
+immediately dropping bodily to leeward, she fell broadside foremost, on the
+edge of a considerable body of ice; and having at the same time an open sea
+to windward, the surf caused her to strike violently upon it. This mass at
+length either so far broke, or moved, as to set them at liberty to make
+another trial to escape; but unfortunately before the ship gathered way
+enough to be under command, she again fell to leeward on another fragment;
+and the swell making it unsafe to lie to windward, and finding no chance of
+getting clear, they pushed into a small opening, furled their sails, and
+made fast with ice-hooks.
+
+<p>In this dangerous situation we saw them at noon, about three miles from us,
+bearing N.W., a fresh gale from the S.E. driving more ice to the N.W., and
+increasing the body that lay between us. Our latitude, by account, was 69°
+8', the longitude 187° and the depth of water twenty-eight fathoms. To add
+to the gloomy apprehensions which began to force themselves on us, at half
+past four in the afternoon, the weather becoming thick and hazy, we lost
+sight of the Discovery; but that we might be in a situation to afford her
+every assistance in our power, we kept standing on close by the edge of the
+ice. At six, the wind happily coming round to the north, gave us some hopes
+that the ice might drift away and release her; and in that case, as it was
+uncertain in what condition she might come out, We kept firing a gun every
+half hour, in order to prevent a separation. Our apprehensions for her
+safety did not cease till nine, when we heard her guns in answer to ours;
+and soon after being hailed by her, were informed that upon the change of
+wind the ice began to separate; and that setting all their sails, they
+forced a passage through it. We learned farther, that whilst they were
+encompassed by it, they found the ship drift with the main body to the
+N.E., at the rate of half a mile an hour. We were sorry to find that the
+Discovery had rubbed off a great deal of the sheathing from her bows, and
+was become very leaky, from the strokes she had received when she fell upon
+the edge of the ice.
+
+<p>On the 24th we had fresh breezes from the S.W., with hazy weather, and kept
+running to the S.E. till eleven in the forenoon, when a large body of loose
+ice, extending from N.N.E. round by the E., to S.S.E., and to which (though
+the weather was tolerably clear) we could see no end, again obstructed our
+course. We therefore kept working to windward, and at noon our latitude, by
+observation, was 68° 53', longitude 188°; the variation of the compass 22°
+30' E. At four in the afternoon it became calm, and we hoisted out the
+boats in pursuit of the sea-horses, which were in prodigious herds on every
+side of us. We killed ten of them, which were as many as we could make use
+of for eating, or for converting into lamp-oil. We kept on with the wind
+from the S.W., along the edge of the ice, which extended in a direction
+almost due E. and W., till four in the morning of the 25th, when observing
+a clear sea beyond it to the S.E., we made sail that way, with a view of
+forcing through it. By six we had cleared it, and continued the remainder
+of the day running to the S.E., without any ice in sight. At noon, our
+latitude, by observation, was 68° 38', longitude 189° 9', and the depth of
+water thirty fathoms. At midnight we tacked and stood to the westward, with
+a fresh gale from the S.; and at ten in the forenoon, of the 26th, the ice
+again shewed itself, extending from N.W. to S. It appeared loose, and
+drifting by the force of the wind to the northward. At noon, our latitude,
+by observation, was 68° N., longitude 188° 10' E.; and we had soundings
+with twenty-eight fathoms. For the remaining part of the day, and till noon
+of the 27th, we kept standing backward and forward, in order to clear
+ourselves of different bodies of ice. At noon we were in latitude, by
+observation, 67° 47', longitude 188°. At two in the afternoon, we saw the
+continent to the S. by E.; and at four, having run since noon with a S.S.E.
+wind to the S.W., we were surrounded by loose masses of ice, with the firm
+body of it in sight, stretching in a N. by W. and a S. by E. direction, as
+far as the eye could reach; beyond which we saw the coast of Asia, bearing
+S. and S. by E.
+
+<p>As it was now necessary to come to some determination with respect to the
+course we were next to steer, Captain Clerke sent a boat, with the
+carpenters, on board the Discovery, to enquire into the particulars of the
+damage she had sustained. They returned in the evening, with the report of
+Captain Gore, and of the carpenters of both ships, that the damages they
+had received were of a kind that would require three weeks to repair; and
+that it would be necessary, for that purpose, to go into some port.
+
+<p>Thus, finding a farther advance to the northward, as well as a nearer
+approach to either continent, obstructed by a sea blocked up with ice, we
+judged it both injurious to the service, by endangering the safety of the
+ships, as well as fruitless, with respect to the design of our voyage, to
+make any farther attempts toward a passage. This, therefore, added to the
+representations of Captain Gore, determined Captain Clerke not to lose more
+time in what he concluded to be an unattainable object, but to sail for
+Awatska Bay, to repair our damages there; and before the winter should set
+in, and render all other efforts toward discovery impracticable, to explore
+the coast of Japan.
+
+<p>I will not endeavour to conceal the joy that brightened the countenance of
+every individual, as soon as Captain Clerke's resolutions were made known.
+We were all heartily sick of a navigation full of danger, and in which the
+utmost perseverance had not been repaid with the smallest probability of
+success. We therefore turned our faces toward home, after an absence of
+three years, with a delight and satisfaction, which, notwithstanding the
+tedious voyage we had still to make, and the immense distance we had to
+run, were as freely entertained, and perhaps as fully enjoyed, as if we had
+been already in sight of the Land's-end.
+
+<p>On the 28th, we kept working to windward with a fresh breeze from the S.E.,
+having the coast of Asia still in sight. At four in the morning, the cape,
+which, on the authority of Muller, we have called Serdze Kamen, bore
+S.S.W., distant six or seven leagues. We saw in different places, upon the
+tops of the hills, which rise inland on both sides of the cape,
+protuberances of a considerable height, which had the appearance of huge
+rocks, or pillars of stone.
+
+<p>On the 29th, the wind still continuing contrary, we made but slow progress
+to the southward. At midnight we had thick foggy weather, accompanied with
+a breeze from the N.N.W., with which we directed our course to the S.S.E.
+through the strait, and had no land in sight till seven in the evening of
+the 30th, when the fog clearing away, we saw Cape Prince of Wales bearing
+S. by E., distant about six leagues; and the island St Diomede, S.W. by W.
+We now altered our course to the W., and at eight made the east cape, which
+at midnight bore W. by N., distant four leagues. In the night we steered to
+the S.S.W., with a fresh west-north-westerly breeze; and at four in the
+morning of the 31st, the east cape bore N.N.E.; and the N.E. part of the
+bay of St Laurence (where we anchored the last year) W. by S., its distance
+being four leagues. As we could not have worked up to windward without a
+greater waste of time than the object appeared to deserve, we ran across
+the bay, regretting much, as we passed along, the loss of this opportunity
+of paying a second visit to the Tschutski. At noon, our latitude, by
+observation, was 65° 6', and longitude 189°. The south point of the bay of
+St Laurence bore N. by W. 1/4 W., and was distant seven or eight leagues.
+In the afternoon, the variation was found to be 22° 50' E.
+
+<p>Having now passed Beering's Strait, and taken our final leave of the N.E.
+coast of Asia, it may not be improper, on this occasion, to state the
+grounds on which we have ventured to adopt two general conclusions
+respecting its extent, in opposition to the opinions of Mr Muller. The
+first, that the promontory named East Cape, is actually the easternmost
+point of that quarter of the globe; or, in other words, that no part of the
+continent extends in longitude beyond 190° 22' E.; the second, that the
+latitude of the north-easternmost extremity falls to the southward of 70°
+N. With respect to the former, if such land exist, it must necessarily be
+to the N. of latitude 69°, where the discoveries made in the present voyage
+terminate; and, therefore, the probable direction of the coast, beyond this
+point, is the question I shall endeavour, in the first place, to
+investigate.
+
+<p>As the Russian is the only nation that has hitherto navigated these seas,
+all our information respecting the situation of the coast to the northward
+of Cape North, must necessarily be derived from the charts and journals of
+the persons who have been employed at various times in ascertaining the
+limits of that empire; and these are for the most part so imperfect, so
+confused, and contradictory, that it is not easy to form any distinct idea
+of their pretended, much less to collect the amount of their real
+discoveries. It is on this account, that the extent and form of the
+peninsula, inhabited by the Tschutski, still remains a point on which the
+Russian geographers are much divided. Mr Muller, in his map, published in
+the year 1754, supposes this country to extend toward the N.E., to the 75°
+of latitude, and in longitude 190° E. of Greenwich, and to terminate in a
+round cape, which he calls Tschukotskoi Noss. To the southward of this cape
+he conceives the coast to form a bay to the westward, bounded in latitude
+67° 18', by Serdze Kamen, the northernmost point seen by Beering in his
+expedition in the year 1728. The map published by the academy of St
+Petersburgh, in the year 1776, gives the whole peninsula entirely a new
+form, placing its north-easternmost extremity in the latitude of 73°,
+longitude 178° 30'. The easternmost point in latitude 65° 30', longitude
+189° 30'. All the other maps we saw, both printed and in manuscript, vary
+between these two, apparently more according to the fancy of the compiler,
+than on any grounds of more accurate information. The only point in which
+there is a general coincidence, without any considerable variation, is in
+the position of the east cape in latitude 66°. The form of the coast, both
+to the S. and N. of this cape, in the map of the academy, is exceedingly
+erroneous, and may be totally disregarded. In that of Mr Muller, the coast
+to the northward bears a considerable resemblance to our survey, as far as
+the latter extends, except that it does not trend sufficiently to the
+westward, receding only about 5° of longitude, between the latitude of 66°
+and 69°; whereas in reality it recedes near ten. Between the latitude of
+69° and 74°, he makes the coast bend round to the N. and N.E., and to form
+a considerable promontory. On what authority now remains to be examined.
+
+<p>Mr Coxe, whose accurate researches into this subject give his opinion great
+weight, is persuaded that the extremity of the Noss in question was never
+passed but by Deshneff and his party, who sailed from the river Kovyma in
+the year 1648, and are supposed to have got round it into the Anadir. As
+the account of this expedition, the substance of which the reader will find
+in Mr Coxe's Account of Russian Discoveries, contains no geographical
+delineation of the coast along which they sailed, its position must be
+conjectured from incidental circumstances; and from these it appears very
+manifest, that the Tschukotskoi Noss of Deshneff is no other than the
+promontory called by Captain Cook the East Cape. Speaking of the Noss, he
+says, "One might sail from the isthmus to the river Anadir, with a fair
+wind, in three days and three nights." This exactly coincides with the
+situation of the East Cape, which is about one hundred and twenty leagues
+from the mouth of the Anadir; and as there is no other isthmus to the
+northward between that and the latitude of 69°, it is obvious that, by this
+description, he must intend either the cape in question, or some other to
+the southward of it. In another place he says, "Over against the isthmus
+there are two islands in the sea, upon which were seen people of the
+Tschutski nation, through whose lips were run pieces of the teeth of the
+sea-horse." This again perfectly agrees with the two islands situated to
+the S.E. of the East Cape. We saw indeed no inhabitants on them, but it is
+not at all improbable that a party of the Americans from the opposite
+continent, whom this description accurately suits, might, at that time,
+have been accidentally there; and whom it was natural enough for him to
+mistake for a tribe of the Tschutski.[25]
+
+<blockquote>[25] From the circumstance, related in the last volume, that gave name to
+Sledge Island, it appears that the inhabitants of the adjacent
+continents visit occasionally the small islands lying between them,
+probably for the conveniency of fishing, or in pursuit of furs.
+
+<p>It appears also from Popoff's deposition, which I shall have occasion
+to speak of more particularly hereafter, that the general resemblance
+between the people, who are seen in these islands, and the Tschutski,
+was sufficient to lead Deshneff into the error of imagining them to be
+the same. "Opposite to the Noss," he says, "is an island of moderate
+size, without trees, whose inhabitants <i>resemble in their exterior the
+Tschutski, although they are quite another nation</i>; not numerous,
+indeed, yet speaking their own particular language." Again, "One may
+go in a baidare from the Noss to the island in half a day; beyond is a
+great continent, which can be discovered from the island in serene
+weather. When the weather is good, one may go from the island to the
+continent in a day. <i>The inhabitants of the continent are similar to
+the Tschutski, excepting that they speak another language</i>."</blockquote>
+
+<p>These two circumstances are of so striking and unequivocal a nature, that
+they appear to me conclusive on the point of the Tschukotskoi Noss,
+notwithstanding there are others of a more doubtful kind, which we have
+from the same authority, and which now remain to be considered. "To go,"
+says Deshneff in another account, "from the Kovyma to the Anadir, a great
+promontory must be doubled, which stretches very far into the sea;" and
+afterwards, "this promontory stretches between N. and N.E." It was probably
+from the expressions contained in these passages, that Mr Muller was
+induced to give the country of the Tschutski the form we find in his map;
+but had he been acquainted with the situation of the east cape, as
+ascertained by Captain Cook, and the remarkable coincidence between it and
+this promontory or isthmus, (for it must be observed, that Deshneff appears
+to be all along speaking of the same thing), in the circumstances already
+mentioned, I am confident he would not have thought those expressions,
+merely by themselves, of sufficient weight to warrant him in extending the
+north-eastern extremity of Asia, either so far to the north or to the
+eastward. For, after all, these expressions are not irreconcilable with the
+opinion we have adopted, if we suppose Deshneff to have taken these
+bearings from the small bight which lies to the westward of the cape.
+
+<p>The deposition of the Cossack Popoff, taken at the Anadirskoi ostrog; in
+the year 1711, seems to have been the next authority on which Mr Muller has
+proceeded; and beside these two, I am not acquainted with any other. This
+Cossack, together with several others, was sent by land to demand tribute
+from the independent Tschutski tribes, who lived about the Noss. The first
+circumstance in the account of this journey that can lead to the situation
+of Tschukotskoi Noss, is its distance from Anadirsk; and this is stated to
+be ten weeks' journey with loaded rein-deer; on which account, it is added,
+their day's journey was but very small. It is impossible to conclude much
+from so vague an account; but, as the distance between the east cape and
+the ostrog is upward of two hundred leagues in a straight line, and
+therefore may be supposed to allow twelve or fifteen miles a day, its
+situation cannot be reckoned incompatible with Popoff's calculation. The
+next circumstance mentioned in this deposition is, that their route lay by
+the foot of a rock called Matkol, situated at the bottom of a great gulf.
+This gulf Muller supposes to be the bay he had laid down between latitude
+66° and 72°; and accordingly places the rock Matkol in the centre of it;
+but it appears equally probable, even if we had not so many reasons to
+doubt the existence of that bay, that it might be some part of the gulf of
+Anadir, which they would undoubtedly touch upon in their road from the
+ostrog to the east cape.
+
+<p>But what seems to put this matter beyond all dispute, and to prove that the
+cape visited by Popoff cannot be to the northward of 69° latitude, is, that
+part of his deposition, which I have already quoted, relative to the island
+lying off the Noss, from whence the opposite continent might be seen. For
+as the two continents in latitude 69°, have diverged so far as to be more
+than three hundred miles distant, it is highly improbable that the Asiatic
+coast should again trend in such a manner to the eastward, as to come
+nearly within sight of the coast of America.
+
+<p>If these arguments should be deemed conclusive against the existence of the
+peninsula of the Tschutski, as laid down by Muller, it will follow that the
+east cape is the Tschukotskoi Noss of the[26] more early Russian
+navigators; and, consequently, that the undescribed coast from the latitude
+of 69° to the mouth of the river Kovyma, must uniformly trend more or less
+to the westward. As an additional proof of this, it may be remarked, that
+the Tschukotskoi Noss is always represented as dividing the sea of Kovyma
+from that of Anadir, which could not be the case, if any considerable cape
+had projected to the N.E. in the higher latitudes. Thus, in the depositions
+taken at Anadirsk, it is related, "that opposite the Noss, on both sides,
+as well in the sea of Kovyma, as in that of Anadir, an island is said to be
+seen at a great distance, which the Tschutski call a large country; and say
+that people dwell there who have large teeth put in their mouths that
+project through their cheeks." Then follows a description of these people
+and their country, exactly corresponding with our accounts of the opposite
+continent.
+
+<blockquote>[26] I mention the more early Russian navigators, because Beering, whom we
+have also followed, and after him all the late Russian geographers,
+have given this name to the S.E. cape of the peninsula of the
+Tschutski, which was formerly called the Anadirskoi Noss.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The last question that arises is, to what degree of northern latitude this
+coast extends, before it trends more directly to the westward. If the
+situation of the mouth of the Kovyma, both with respect to its latitude and
+longitude, were accurately determined, it would perhaps not be very
+difficult to form a probable conjecture upon this point. Captain Cook was
+always strongly of opinion that the northern coast of Asia, from the
+Indigirka eastward, has hitherto been generally laid down more than two
+degrees to the northward of its true position; and he has, therefore, on
+the authority of a map that was in his possession, and on the information
+he received at Oonalashka, placed the mouth of the river Kovyma, in his
+chart of the N.W. coast of America, and the N.E. coast of Asia, in the
+latitude of 68°. Should he be right in this conjecture, it is probable, for
+the reasons that have been already stated, that the Asiatic coast does not
+any where exceed 70°, before it trends to the westward; and consequently,
+that we were within 1° of its north-eastern extremity. For, if the
+continent be supposed to stretch any where to the northward of Shelatskoi
+Noss, it is scarcely possible that so extraordinary a circumstance should
+not have been mentioned by the Russian navigators; and we have already
+shewn that they make mention of no remarkable promontory between the Kovyma
+and the Anadir, except the east cape. Another circumstance, related by
+Deshneff, may, perhaps, be thought a further confirmation of this opinion,
+namely, that he met with no impediment from ice in navigating round the
+N.E. extremity of Asia; though, he adds, that this sea is not always so
+free from it, as indeed is manifest from the failure of his first
+expedition, and since that, from the unsuccessful attempts of Shalauroff,
+and the obstacles we met with, in two different years, in our present
+voyage.[27]
+
+<blockquote>[27] It ought, however, to be recollected, that though Shalauroff is
+conceived never to have doubled Shelatskoi Noss, he nevertheless does
+not appear to have considered there was any particular difficulty in
+doing so. In his first attempt to sail from the Kovyma to the Eastern
+Ocean, he was necessitated, by contrary winds, and the too far
+advanced season of the year, to seek for a watering-place, before
+having reached that cape. In the following year, again, he was
+frustrated by want of provisions, and a mutiny of his crew, which
+forced him to return to the Lena. The progress of his last enterprise
+is somewhat uncertain, as neither he nor any of his crew ever
+returned. But there are tolerably good reasons for believing, that, at
+all events, he had surmounted the navigation of this cape, if not for
+the opinion, that he actually accomplished the chief object of his
+voyage, by bringing his vessel to the mouth of the Anadir, where, it
+is on the whole, most probable, they were killed by the Tschutski.
+This last circumstance, however, it is to be allowed Mr Coxe, affords
+no decisive proof that they had doubled the eastern extremity of Asia,
+for it is possible they might have reached the Anadir by a journey
+over land. After all, then, we are forced to revert to Deshneff's
+voyage as the solitary evidence, and that too but imperfectly
+elucidated, of the practicability of reaching the Eastern Ocean from
+the north coast of Asia.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The continent left undetermined in our chart between Cape North, and the
+mouth of the Kovyma is, in longitudinal extent, one hundred and twenty-five
+leagues. One-third, or about forty leagues, of this distance, from the
+Kovyma eastward, was explored in the year 1723, by a <i>sinbo-jarskoi</i> of
+Jakutz, whose name was Feodor Amossoff, by whom Mr Muller was informed,
+that its direction was to the eastward. It is said to have been since
+accurately surveyed by Shalauroff, whose chart makes it trend to the N.E.
+by E., as far as the Shelatskoi Noss, which he places about forty-three
+leagues to the eastward of the Kovyma. The space between this Noss and Cape
+North, about eighty-two leagues, is therefore the only part of the Russian
+empire that now remains unascertained.
+
+<p>But if the river Kovyma be erroneously situated with respect to its
+longitude, as well as in its latitude, a supposition for which probable
+grounds are not wanting, the extent of the unexplored coast will become
+proportionably diminished. The reasons which incline me to believe that the
+mouth of this river is placed in the Russian charts much too far to the
+westward, are as follow: First, because the accounts that are given of the
+navigation of the Frozen Sea from that river, round the N.E. point of Asia
+to the gulf of Anadir, do not accord with the supposed distance between
+those places. Secondly, because the distance over land from the Kovyma to
+the Anadir is represented by the early Russian travellers as a journey
+easily performed, and of no very extraordinary length. Thirdly, because the
+coast from the Shelatskoi Noss of Shalauroff[28] seems to trend directly
+S.E. to the East Cape. If this be so, it will follow, that as we were
+probably not more than 1° to the southward of Shelatskoi Noss, only sixty
+miles of the Asiatic coast remain unascertained.[29]
+
+<blockquote>[28] See chart in Coxe's Account of Russian Discoveries.</blockquote>
+
+<blockquote>[29] Here, it is not unlikely, some readers will feel regret, that a
+greater sacrifice was not made, or a longer continued effort
+practised, or a renewed attempt hazarded, in order to overcome so
+inconsiderable a space, and so to double Shelatskoi Noss, whence, it
+may be thought, there could have been comparatively little difficulty
+in prosecuting the object of the voyage. The feeling is not
+unreasonable, provided it be not made the basis of any thing like
+censure on the management of the undertaking; in which case, it must
+soon give way to the conviction of the superior good sense, and the
+higher interest (excluding altogether, which is manifestly inhuman,
+every concern for the persons immediately engaged in the enterprise)
+displayed by the determination to abandon the attempt. To the force of
+this conviction, it may be necessary to add the very material
+consideration, that, even had it been any way practicable to double
+the cape in question, and to reach the Lena in the same track as
+Shalauroff, there would have still remained the space betwixt that
+river and Archangel, which, though undoubtedly to a great degree
+explored, does not appear to have been ever altogether navigated. To
+the merely fanciful caviller at the result of this attempt, it would
+be a prostitution of time and patience, even if one had both in the
+requisite quantity, to offer a reply. But the observations which
+Captain King immediately makes on this subject, will probably obviate
+any objection which the most sanguine mind will be disposed to
+entertain, and perhaps there was little occasion to subjoin a single
+remark to his opinion.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>Had Captain Cook lived to this period of our voyage, and experienced, in a
+second attempt, the impracticability of a N.E. or N.W. passage from the
+Pacific to the Atlantic Ocean, he would doubtless have laid before the
+public, in one connected view, an account of the obstacles which defeated
+this, the primary object of our expedition, together with his observations
+on a subject of such magnitude, and which had engaged the attention and
+divided the opinions of philosophers and navigators for upward of two
+hundred years. I am very sensible how unequal I am to the task of supplying
+this deficiency; but that the expectations of the reader may not be wholly
+disappointed, I must beg his candid acceptance of the following
+observations, as well as of those I have already ventured to offer him,
+relative to the extent of the N.E. coast of Asia.
+
+<p>The evidence that has been so fully and judiciously stated in the
+introduction, amounts to the highest degree of probability that a N.W.
+passage from the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean, cannot exist to the
+southward of 65° of latitude. If then there exist a passage, it must be
+either through Baffin's Bay, or round by the north of Greenland, in the
+western hemisphere, or else through the Frozen Ocean, to the northward of
+Siberia, in the eastern; and on whichever side it lies, the navigator must
+necessarily pass through Beering's Strait. The impracticability of
+penetrating into the Atlantic on either side, through the strait, is
+therefore all that remains to be submitted to the consideration of the
+public.
+
+<p>As far as our experience went, it appears, that the sea to the north of
+Beering's Strait is clearer of ice in August than in July, and perhaps in a
+part of September it may be still more free. But after the equinox the days
+shorten so fast, that no farther thaw can be expected; and we cannot
+rationally allow so great an effect to the warm weather in the first half
+of September, as to imagine it capable of dispersing the ice from the most
+northern parts of the American coast. But admitting this to be possible, it
+must at least be granted, that it would be madness to attempt to run from
+the Icy Cape to the known parts of Baffin's Bay, (a distance of four
+hundred and twenty leagues), in so short a time as that passage can be
+supposed to continue open.[30]
+
+<blockquote>[30] This is the only point on which, it seems possible, to question the
+reasoning of Captain King, and that altogether on the ground of Mr
+McKenzie's discovery, which of course was not known to that officer.
+In virtue of that discovery, it seems obvious enough, that the implied
+necessity of the run from the Icy Cape to Baffin's Bay in one short
+season, according to the above argument, is reduced; though it would
+be erroneous, to say, that the importance of the discovery is such as
+very materially to modify the occasion for so great a navigation at
+one stretch. But enough perhaps has been said on a subject, which can
+scarcely be expected to claim more attention than it has done already,
+or which, if it be yet destined to prompt to farther undertakings,
+will do so for some such reasons, and on such grounds, as were
+formerly adverted to.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>Upon the Asiatic side, there appears still less probability of success,
+both from what came to our own knowledge, with respect to the state of the
+sea to the southward of Cape North, and also from what we learn from the
+experience of the[31] lieutenants under Beering's direction, and the
+journal of Shalauroff, in regard to that on the north of Siberia.
+
+<blockquote>[31] See Gmelin, pages 369, 374.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The voyage of Deshneff, if its truth be admitted, proves undoubtedly the
+possibility of passing round the N.E. point of Asia; but when the reader
+reflects that near a century and a half has elapsed since the time of that
+navigator, during which, in an age of great curiosity and enterprize, no
+man has yet been able to follow him, he will not entertain very sanguine
+expectations of the public advantages that can be derived from it. But let
+us even suppose, that in some singularly favourable season a ship has found
+a clear passage round the coast of Siberia, and is safely arrived at the
+mouth of the Lena, still there remains the Cape of Taimura, stretching to
+the 78° of latitude, which the good fortune of no single voyager has
+hitherto doubled.
+
+<p>It is, however, contended, that there are strong reasons for believing that
+the sea is more free from ice the nearer we approach to the Pole; and that
+all the ice we saw in the lower latitudes was formed in the great rivers of
+Siberia and America, the breaking up of which had filled the intermediate
+sea. But even if that supposition be true, it is equally so, that there can
+be no access to those open seas, unless this great mass of ice is so far
+dissolved in the summer as to admit of a ship's getting through it. If this
+be the fact, we have taken a wrong time of the year for attempting to find
+this passage, which should have been explored in April and May, before the
+rivers were broken up. But how many reasons may be given against such a
+supposition? Our experience at Saint Peter and Saint Paul enabled us to
+judge what might be expected farther north; and upon that ground we had
+reason to doubt whether the continents might not in winter be even joined
+by the ice; and this agreed with the stories we heard in Kamtschatka, that
+on the Siberian coast they go out from the shore in winter upon the ice to
+greater distances than the breadth of the sea is in some parts from one
+continent to the other.
+
+<p>In the depositions referred to above, the following remarkable circumstance
+is related. Speaking of the land seen from the Tschukotskoi Noss, it is
+said, "that in summer time they sail in one day to the land in baidares, a
+sort of vessel constructed of whale-bone, and covered with seal-skins; and
+in winter time, going swift with rein-deer, the journey may be likewise
+made in one day." A sufficient proof that the two countries were usually
+joined together by the ice.
+
+<p>The account given by Mr Muller of one of the expeditions undertaken to
+discover a supposed island in the Frozen Sea, is still more remarkable. "In
+the year 1714, a new expedition was prepared from Jakutzk, for the same
+place, under the command of Alexei Markoff, who was to sail from the mouth
+of the Jana; and if the <i>Schitiki</i> were not fit for sea-voyages, he was to
+construct, at a proper place, vessels fit for prosecuting the discoveries
+without danger.
+
+<p>"On his arrival at Ust-janskoe Simovie, the port at which he was to embark,
+he sent an account, dated February 2, 1715, to the Chancery of Jakutzk,
+mentioning that it was impossible to navigate the sea, as it was
+continually frozen both in summer and winter; and that consequently the
+intended expedition was no otherwise to be carried on but with sledges
+drawn by dogs. In this manner he accordingly set out, with nine persons, on
+the 10th of March the same year, and returned on the 3d of April, to Ust-
+janskoe Simovie. The account of his journey is as follows: That he went
+seven days as fast as his dogs could draw him, (which, in good ways and
+weather, is eighty or a hundred wersts in a day) directly towards the
+north, upon the ice, without discovering any island; that it had not been
+possible for him to proceed any farther, the ice rising there in the sea
+like mountains; that he had climbed to the top of some of them, whence he
+was able to see to a great distance round about him, but could discern no
+appearance of land; and that at last wanting food for his dogs, many of
+them died, which obliged him to return."
+
+<p>Besides these arguments, which proceed upon an admission of the hypothesis,
+that the ice in those seas comes from the rivers, there are others which
+give great room to suspect the truth of the hypothesis itself. Captain
+Cook, whose opinion respecting the formation of ice had formerly coincided
+with that of the theorists we are now controverting, found abundant reason,
+in the present voyage, for changing his sentiments. We found the coast of
+each continent to be low, the soundings gradually decreasing toward them,
+and a striking resemblance between the two; which, together with the
+description Mr Hearne gives of the copper-mine river, afford reason to
+conjecture, that whatever rivers may empty themselves into the Frozen Sea,
+from the American continent, are of the same nature with those on the
+Asiatic side, which are represented to be so shallow at the entrance, as to
+admit only small vessels; whereas the ice we have seen rises above the
+level of the sea to a height equal to the depth of those rivers, so that
+its entire height must be at least ten times greater.
+
+<p>The curious reader will also, in this place, be led naturally to reflect on
+another circumstance, which appears very incompatible with the opinion of
+those who imagine land to be necessary for the formation of ice; I mean the
+different state of the sea about Spitsbergen, and to the north of Beering's
+Strait. It is incumbent on them to explain how it comes to pass, that in
+the former quarter, and in the vicinity of much known land, the navigator
+annually penetrates to near 80° N. latitude; whereas, on the other side,
+his utmost efforts have not been able to carry him beyond 71°; where,
+moreover, the continents diverge nearly E. and W., and where there is no
+land yet known to exist near the Pole. For the farther satisfaction of the
+reader on this point, I shall beg leave to refer him to <i>Observations made
+during a Voyage round the World</i>, by Dr Forster, where he will find the
+question of the formation of ice fully and satisfactorily discussed, and
+the probability of open polar seas disproved by a variety of powerful
+arguments.[32]
+
+<blockquote>[32] The reader may recollect that his attention was formerly directed to
+the same work, and for the same reason. It ought now to be remarked,
+that the subject has very recently attracted much attention by the
+additional enquiries and observations of Mr Scoresby, as communicated
+to the Wernerian Society of Edinburgh, and which are likely to lead to
+some important results.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>I shall conclude these remarks with a short comparative view of the
+progress we made to the northward, at the two different seasons we were
+engaged in that pursuit, together with a few general observations relative
+to the sea, and the coasts of the two continents, which lie to the north of
+Beering's Strait.
+
+<p>It may be observed, that in the year 1778 we did not meet with the ice till
+we advanced to the latitude of 70°, on August 17th, and that then we found
+it in compact bodies, extending as far as the eye could reach, and of which
+a part or the whole was moveable, since, by its drifting down, upon us, we
+narrowly escaped being hemmed in between it and the land. After
+experiencing both how fruitless and dangerous it would be to attempt to
+penetrate farther north, between the ice and the land, we stood over toward
+the Asiatic side, between the latitude 69° and 70°, frequently encountering
+in this tract large and extensive fields of ice; and though, by reason, of
+the fogs and thickness of the weather, we were not able absolutely and
+entirely to trace a connected line of it across, yet we were sure to meet
+with it before we reached the latitude of 70°, whenever we attempted to
+stand to the northward. On the 26th of August, in latitude 69-3/4°, and
+longitude 184°, we were obstructed by it in such quantities, as made it
+impossible for us to pass either to the north or west, and obliged us to
+run along the edge of it to the S.S.W., till we saw land, which we
+afterward found to be the coast of Asia. With the season thus far advanced,
+the weather setting in with snow and sleet, and other signs of approaching
+winter, we abandoned our enterprize for that time.
+
+<p>In this second attempt we could do little more than confirm the
+observations we had made in the first; for we were never able to approach
+the continent of Asia higher than the latitude 67°, nor that of America in
+any parts, excepting a few leagues between the latitude of 68° and 68° 20',
+that were not seen the last year. We were now obstructed by ice 3° lower,
+and our endeavours to push farther to the northward were principally
+confined to the mid-space between the two coasts. We penetrated near 3°
+farther on the American side than on the Asiatic, meeting with the ice both
+years sooner, and in greater quantities on the latter coast. As we advanced
+N., we still found the ice more compact and solid; yet, as in our different
+traverses from side to side, we passed over spaces which had, before been
+covered with it, we conjectured that most of what we saw was moveable. Its
+height, on a medium, we took to be from eight to ten feet, and that of the
+highest to have been sixteen or eighteen. We again tried the currents
+twice, and found them unequal, but never to exceed one mile an hour. By
+comparing the reckoning with the observations, we also found the current to
+set different ways, yet more from the S.W. than any other quarter; but
+whatever their direction might be, their effect was so trifling, that no
+conclusions respecting the existence of any passage to the northward could
+be drawn from them. We found the month of July to be infinitely colder than
+that of August. The thermometer in July was once at 28°, and very commonly
+at 30°; whereas the last year, in August, it was very rare to have it so
+low as the freezing point. In both seasons we had some high winds, all of
+which came from the S.W. We were subject to fogs whenever the wind was
+moderate, from whatever quarter, but they attended southerly winds more
+constantly than contrary ones.[33]
+
+<blockquote>[33] It is worth while to remember that a corresponding observation as to
+the comparative prevalence of fogs during a northerly wind, was made
+in Cook's second voyage when navigating in a high south latitude.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The straits between the two continents, at their nearest approach in
+latitude 66°, were ascertained to be thirteen leagues, beyond which they
+diverge to N.E. by E. and W.N.W.; and in latitude 69°, they become 14° of
+longitude, or about one hundred leagues asunder. A great similarity is
+observable in the appearance of the two countries, to the northward of the
+straits. Both are destitute of wood. The shores are low, with mountains
+rising to a great height farther up the country. The depth of water in the
+mid-way between them was twenty-nine and thirty fathoms, decreasing
+gradually as we approached either continent, with the difference of being
+somewhat shoaler on the American than on the Asiatic coast, at the same
+distance from land. The bottom in the middle was a soft slimy mud, and on
+drawing near to either shore, a brown sand, intermixed with small fragments
+of bones, and a few shells. We observed but little tide or current; what
+there was came from the westward.
+
+<p>But it is now time to resume the narrative of our voyage, which was broken
+off on the 31st of July, on which day at noon we had advanced eighteen
+leagues to the southward of the East Cape.
+
+<p>We had light airs from the S.W., till noon of the 1st of August, at which
+time our latitude, by observation, was 64° 23', longitude 189° 15'; the
+coast of Asia extended from N.W. by W. to W. 1/2 S, distant about twelve
+leagues; and the land to the eastward of St Laurence bore S. 1/2 W. On the
+2d, the weather becoming clear, we saw the same land at noon, bearing from
+W.S.W. 1/2 W. to S.E., making in a number of high hummocks, which had the
+appearance of separate islands; the latitude, by observation, was 64° 3',
+longitude 189° 28', and depth of water seventeen fathoms. We did not
+approach this land sufficiently near to determine whether it was one
+island, or composed to a cluster together. Its westernmost part we passed
+July 3d, in the evening, and then supposed to be the island of St Laurence;
+the easternmost we ran close by in September last year, and this we named
+Clerke's Island, and found it to consist of a number of high cliffs, joined
+together by very low land. Though we mistook the last year those cliffs for
+separate islands, till we approached very near the shore, I should still
+conjecture that the island Saint Laurence was distinct from Clerke's
+Island, since there appeared a considerable space between them, where we
+could not perceive the smallest rising of ground.[34] In the afternoon we
+also saw what bore the appearance of a small island to the N.E. of the land
+which was seen at noon, and which, from the haziness of the weather, we had
+only sight of once. We estimated its distance to be nineteen leagues from
+the island of St Laurence, in a N.E. by E. 1/2 E. direction. On the 3d, we
+had light variable winds, and directed our course round the N.W. point of
+the island of Saint Laurence. On the 4th, at noon, our latitude by account
+was 64° 8', longitude 188°; the island Saint Laurence bearing S. 1/4 E.,
+distant seven leagues. In the afternoon, a fresh breeze springing up from
+the E., we steered to the S.S.W., and soon lost sight of Saint Laurence. On
+the 7th, at noon, the latitude by observation was 59° 38', longitude 183°.
+In the afternoon it fell calm, and we got a great number of cod in seventy-
+eight fathoms of water. The variation was found to be 19° E. From this time
+to the 17th, we were making the best of our way to the S., without any
+occurrence worth remarking, except that the wind coming from the western
+quarter, forced us farther to the eastward than we wished, as it was our
+intention to make Beering's Island.
+
+<blockquote>[34] But this opinion is not admitted by Mr Arrowsmith, who has given but
+one island in this position, as we have already mentioned.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>On the 17th, at half-past four in the morning, we saw land to the N.W.,
+which we could not approach, the wind blowing from that quarter. At noon,
+the latitude by observation was 53° 49', longitude 168° 5', and variation
+10° E. The land in sight bore N. by W. twelve or fourteen leagues distant.
+This land we take to be the island Mednoi, laid down in the Russian charts
+to the S.E. of Beering's Island. It is high land, and appeared clear of
+snow. We place it in the latitude 54° 28', longitude 167° 52'. We got no
+soundings with one hundred and fifty fathoms of line.
+
+<p>Captain Clerke was now no longer able to get out of his bed; he therefore
+desired that the officers would receive their orders from me, and directed
+that we should proceed with all speed to Awatska Bay. The wind continuing
+westerly, we stood on to the S., till early on the morning of the 19th,
+when, after a few hours rain, it blew from the eastward, and freshened to a
+strong gale. We accordingly made the most of it whilst it lasted, by
+standing to the westward under all the sail we could carry. On the 20th,
+the wind shifting to the S.W., our course was to the W.N.W. At noon, the
+latitude by observation was 53° 7', longitude 162° 49'. On the 21st, at
+half-past five in the morning, we saw a very high peaked mountain on the
+coast of Kamtschatka, called Cheepoonskoi Mountain, from its lying behind
+the Noss, bearing N.W. by N., twenty-five or thirty leagues distant. At
+noon, the coast extended from N. by E. to W., with a very great haziness
+upon it, and distant about twelve leagues. We had light airs the remaining
+part of this and the following day, and got no soundings with one hundred
+and forty fathoms of line.
+
+<p>On the 22d of August, 1779. at nine o'clock in the morning, departed this
+life Captain Charles Clerke, in the thirty-eighth year of his age. He died
+of a consumption, which had evidently commenced before he left England, and
+of which he had lingered during the whole voyage. His very gradual decay
+had long made him a melancholy object to his friends; yet the equanimity
+with which he bore it, the constant flow of good spirits which continued to
+the last hour, and a cheerful resignation to his fate, afforded them some
+consolation. It was impossible not to feel a more than common degree of
+compassion for a person whose life had been a continued scene of those
+difficulties and hardships to which a seaman's occupation is subject, and
+under which he at last sank. He was brought up to the navy from his
+earliest youth, and had been in several actions during the war which began
+in 1756, particularly in that between the Bellona and Courageux, where,
+being stationed in the mizen-top, he was carried overboard with the mast,
+but was taken up without having received any hurt. He was midshipman in the
+Dolphin, commanded by Commodore Byron, on her first voyage round the world,
+and afterward served on the American station. In 1768, he made his second
+voyage round the world in the Endeavour, as master's mate, and by the
+promotion which took place during the expedition, he returned a lieutenant.
+His third voyage round the world was in the Resolution, of which he was
+appointed the second lieutenant; and soon after his return in 1775, he was
+promoted to the rank of master and commander. When the present expedition
+was ordered to be fitted out, he was appointed to the Discovery, to
+accompany Captain Cook; and, by the death of the latter, succeeded, as has
+been already mentioned, to the chief command.
+
+<p>It would be doing his memory extreme injustice not to say, that during the
+short time the expedition was under his direction, he was most zealous and
+anxious for its success. His health, about the time the principal command
+devolved upon him, began to decline very rapidly, and was every way unequal
+to encounter the rigours of a high northern climate. But the vigour and
+activity of his mind had, in no shape, suffered by the decay of his body;
+and though he knew, that by delaying his return to a warmer climate, he was
+giving up the only chance that remained for his recovery, yet, careful and
+jealous to the last degree, that a regard to his own situation should never
+bias his judgment to the prejudice of the service, he persevered in the
+search of a passage, till it was the opinion of every officer in both ships
+that it was impracticable, and that any farther attempts would not only be
+fruitless but dangerous.
+
+<p>SECTION V.
+
+<p>Return to the Harbour of Saint Peter and St Paul.--Promotion of Officers.--
+Funeral of Captain Clerke.--Damages of the Discovery repaired.--Various
+other Occupations of the Ships' Crews.--Letters from the Commander.--Supply
+of Flour and Naval Stores from a Russian Galliot.--Account of an Exile.--
+Bear-hunting and fishing Parties.--Disgrace of the Serjeant.--Celebration
+of the King's Coronation Day, and Visit from the Commander.--The Serjeant
+reinstated.--A Russian Soldier promoted at our Request.--Remarks on the
+Discipline of the Russian Army.--Church at Paratounca.--Method of Bear-
+hunting--Farther Account of the Bears and Kamtschadales.--Inscription to
+the Memory of Captain Clerke.--Supply of Cattle.--Entertainments on the
+Empress's Name Day.--Present from the Commander.--Attempt of a Marine to
+desert.--Work out of the Bay.--Nautical and Geographical Description of
+Awatska Bay.--Astronomical Tables and Observations.
+
+<p>I sent Mr Williamson to acquaint Captain Gore with the death of Captain
+Clerke, and received a letter from him, ordering me to use all my
+endeavours to keep in company with the Discovery; and, in case of a
+separation, to make the best of my way to the harbour of Saint Peter and
+Saint Paul. At noon, we were in latitude 53° 8' N., longitude 160° 40' E.,
+with Cheepoonskoi Noss bearing W. We had light airs in the afternoon, which
+lasted through the forenoon of the 23d. At noon, a fresh breeze springing
+up from the eastward, we stood in for the entrance of Awatska Bay; and, at
+six in the evening, saw it bearing W.N.W. 1/2 W., distant five leagues. At
+eight, the light-house, in which we now found a good light, bore N.W. by
+W., three miles distant. The wind about this time died away; but the tide
+being in our favour, we sent the boats ahead, and towed beyond the narrow
+parts of the entrance; and, at one o'clock in the morning of the 24th, the
+ebb tide setting against us, we dropped anchor. At nine we weighed, and
+turned up the bay with light airs, and the boats still ahead till one;
+when, by the help of a fresh breeze, we anchored before three in the
+afternoon in the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, with our ensign
+half staff up, on account of our carrying the body of our late captain, and
+were soon after followed by the Discovery.
+
+<p>We had no sooner anchored than our old friend the serjeant, who was still
+the commander of the place, came on board with a present of berries,
+intended for our poor deceased captain. He was exceedingly affected when we
+told him of his death, and shewed him the coffin that contained his body.
+And as it was Captain Clerke's particular request to be buried on shore,
+and, if possible, in the church of Paratounca, we took the present
+opportunity of explaining this matter to the serjeant, and consulting with
+him about the proper steps to be taken on the occasion. In the course of
+our conversation, which, for want of an interpreter, was carried on but
+imperfectly, we learned that Professor De L'lsle and several other
+gentlemen who died here, had been buried in the ground near the barracks at
+the <i>ostrog</i> of Saint Peter and Saint Paul's; and that this place would be
+preferable to Paratounca, as the church was to be removed thither the next
+year. It was therefore determined that we should wait for the arrival of
+the priest of Paratounca, whom the serjeant advised us to send for, as the
+only person that could satisfy our enquiries on this subject. The serjeant
+having, at the same time, signified his intention of sending off an express
+to the commander at Bolcheretsk, to acquaint him with our arrival, Captain
+Gore availed himself of that occasion of writing him a letter, in which he
+requested that sixteen head of black cattle might be sent with all possible
+expedition. And because the commander did not understand any language
+except his own, the nature of our request was made known to the serjeant,
+who readily undertook to send, along with our letter, an explanation of its
+contents.
+
+<p>We could not help remarking, that, although the country was much improved
+in its appearance since we were last here, the Russians looked, if
+possible, worse now than they did then. It is to be owned, they observed,
+that this was also the case with us; and, as neither party seemed to like
+to be told of their bad looks, we found mutual consolation in throwing the
+blame upon the country, whose green and lively complexion, we agreed, cast
+a deadness and sallowness upon our own.
+
+<p>The eruption of the <i>volcano</i>, which was so violent when we sailed out of
+the bay, we found had done no damage here, notwithstanding stones had
+fallen at the <i>ostrog</i> of the size of a goose's egg. This was all the news
+we had to enquire after, and all they had to tell, excepting that of the
+arrival of Soposnikoff from Oonalashka, who took charge of the packet
+Captain Cook had sent to the Admiralty, and which, it gave us much
+satisfaction to find, had been forwarded.
+
+<p>In the morning of the 25th, Captain Gore made out the new commissions, in
+consequence of Captain Clerke's death, appointing himself to the command of
+the Resolution, and me to the command of the Discovery; and Mr Lanyan,
+master's mate of the Resolution, who had served in that capacity on board
+the Adventure in the former voyage, was promoted to the vacant lieutenancy.
+These promotions produced the following farther arrangements: Lieutenants
+Burney and Rickman were removed from the Discovery to be first and second
+lieutenants of the Resolution; and lieutenant Williamson was appointed
+first lieutenant of the Discovery. Captain Gore also permitted me to take
+into the Discovery four midshipmen, who had made themselves useful to me in
+astronomical calculations, and whose assistance was now particularly
+necessary; as we had no <i>ephemeris</i> for the present year. And, that
+astronomical observations might continue to be made in both ships, Mr
+Bayley took my place in the Resolution. The same day we were visited by the
+Pope Romanoff Vereshagen, the worthy priest of Paratounca. He expressed his
+sorrow at the death of Captain Clerke in a manner that did honour to his
+feelings, and confirmed the account given by the serjeant respecting the
+intended removal of the church to the harbour, adding, that the timber was
+actually preparing, but leaving the choice of either place entirely to
+Captain Gore.
+
+<p>The Discovery, as has been mentioned, had suffered great damage from the
+ice, particularly on the 23d day of July; and having ever since been
+exceedingly leaky, it was imagined that some of her timbers had started.
+Captain Gore therefore sent the carpenters of the Resolution to assist our
+own in repairing her; and, accordingly, the forehold being cleared, to
+lighten her forward, they were set to work, to rip the damaged sheathing
+from the larboard bow. This operation discovered, that three feet of the
+third strake, under the wale, were staved and the timbers within started. A
+tent was next erected for the accommodation of such of our people as were
+employed on shore; and a party were sent a mile into the country, to the
+northward of the harbour, to fell timber. The observatories were erected at
+the west end of the village, near a tent in which Captain Gore and myself
+took up our abode.
+
+<p>The farther we proceeded in removing the sheathing, the more we discovered
+of the decayed state of the ship's hull. The next morning, eight feet of a
+plank in the wale were found to be so exceedingly rotten, as to make it
+necessary to shift it. This left us for some time at a stand, as nothing
+was to be found in either ship wherewith to replace it, unless we chose to
+cut up a top-mast, an expedient not to be had recourse to, till all others
+failed. The carpenters were, therefore, sent on shore in the afternoon, in
+search of a tree big enough for the purpose. Luckily they found a birch,
+which I believe was the only one of sufficient size in the whole
+neighbourhood of the bay, and which had been sawed down by us when we were
+last here; so that it had the advantage of having lain some time to season.
+This was shaped on the spot, and brought on board the next morning.
+
+<p>As the season was now so far advanced, I was fearful lest any delay or
+hindrance should arise, on our parts, to Captain Gore's farther views of
+discovery, and therefore gave orders that no more sheathing should be
+ripped off than was absolutely necessary for repairing the damages
+sustained by the ice. This I did, being apprehensive of their meeting with
+more decayed planks, which, I judged, had much better remain in that state,
+than be filled up with green birch, upon a supposition that such was to be
+had. All hands were at present busily employed in separate duties, that
+every thing might be in readiness for sea against the time our carpenters
+should have finished their work. We set apart four men to haul the seine
+for salmon, which were caught in great abundance, and found to be of an
+excellent quality. After supplying the immediate wants of both ships, we
+salted down near a hogshead a day. The invalids, who were four in number,
+were employed in gathering greens, and in cooking for the parties on shore.
+Our powder was also landed, in order to be dried; and the seahorse blubber,
+with which both ships, in our passage to the north, (as has been before
+related,) had stored themselves, was now boiled down for oil, which was
+become a necessary article, our candles having long since been expended.
+The cooper was fully engaged in his department; and in this manner were
+both ships' companies employed in their several occupations, till Saturday
+afternoon, which was given up to all our men, except the carpenters, for
+the purpose of washing their linen, and getting their clothes in some
+little order, that they might make a decent appearance on Sunday.
+
+<p>In the afternoon of that day, we paid the last offices to Captain Clerke.
+The officers and men of both ships walked in procession to the grave,
+whilst the ships fired minute-guns; and the service being ended, the
+marines fired three vollies. He was interred under a tree which stands on
+rising ground, in the valley to the north side of the harbour, where the
+hospital and store-houses are situated; Captain Gore having judged this
+situation most agreeable to the last wishes of the deceased, for the
+reasons above-mentioned; and the priest of Paratounca having pointed out a
+spot for his grave, which, he said, would be, as near as he could guess, in
+the centre of the new church. This reverend pastor walked in the procession
+along with the gentleman who read the service; and all the Russians in the
+garrison were assembled, and attended with great respect and solemnity.
+
+<p>On the 30th, the different parties returned to their respective
+employments, as mentioned in the course of the preceding week; and, on the
+2d of September, the carpenters having shifted the rotten and damaged
+planks, and repaired and caulked the sheathing of the larboard bow,
+proceeded to rip off the sheathing that had been injured by the ice, from
+the starboard side. Here again they discovered four feet of a plank, in the
+third strake under the wale, so shaken, as to make it necessary to be
+replaced. This was accordingly done, and the sheathing repaired on the 3d.
+In the afternoon of the same day, we got on board some ballast, unhung the
+rudder, and sent it on shore, the lead of the pintles being found entirely
+worn away, and a great part of the sheathing rubbed off. As the carpenters
+of the Resolution were not yet wanted, we got this set to rights the next
+day, but finding the rudder out of all proportion heavy, even heavier than
+that of the Resolution, we let it remain on shore in order to dry and
+lighten.
+
+<p>The same day an ensign arrived from Bolcheretsk with a letter from the
+commander to Captain Gore, which we put into the serjeant's hands, and, by
+his assistance, were made to understand, that orders had been given about
+the cattle, and that they might be expected here in the course of a few
+days; and, moreover, that Captain Shmaleff, the present commander, would
+himself pay us a visit immediately on the arrival of a sloop which was
+daily expected from Okotzk. The young officer who brought the letter was
+the son of the Captain-lieutenant Synd, who commanded an expedition on
+discovery, between Asia and America, eleven years ago, and resided at this
+time at Okotzk.[35] He informed us, that he was sent to receive our
+directions, and to take care to get us supplied with whatever our service
+might require; and that he should remain with us till the commander was
+himself able to leave Bolcheretsk; after which he was to return, that the
+garrison there might not be left without an officer.
+
+<blockquote>[35] See all that is known of this voyage, and a chart of discoveries, in
+Mr Coxe's Account of Russian-Discoveries between Asia and America. We
+were not able to learn from the Russians in Kamtschatka, a more
+perfect account of Synd than we now find is given by Mr Coxe; and yet
+they seemed disposed to communicate all that they really knew. Major
+Behm could only inform us, in general, that the expedition had
+miscarried as to its object, and that the commander had fallen under
+much blame. It appeared evidently that he had been on the coast of
+America, to the southward of Cape Prince of Wales, between the
+latitudes 64° and 65° and it is most probable that his having got too
+far to the northward to meet with sea-otters, which the Russians, in
+all their attempts at discoveries, seem to have principally, in view,
+and his returning without having made any that promised commercial
+advantages, was the cause of his disgrace, and of the great contempt
+with which the Russians always spoke of this officer's voyage.
+
+<p>The cluster of islands placed in Synd's chart, between the latitudes
+of 61° and 65°, is undoubtedly the same with the island called by
+Beering St Laurence's, and those we named Clerke's, Anderson's, and
+King's Islands; but their proportionate size, and relative situation,
+are exceedingly erroneous.</blockquote>
+
+<p>On the 5th, the parties that were on shore returned on board, and were
+employed in scrubbing the ship's bottom, and getting in eight tons of
+shingle ballast. We also got up two of our guns that had been stowed in the
+fore-hold, and mounted them on the deck, being now about to visit nations,
+our reception amongst whom might a good deal depend on the respectability
+of our appearance.
+
+<p>The Resolution hauled on shore on the 8th, to repair some damage which she
+had also received among the ice, in her cut-water, and our carpenters in
+their turn, were sent to her assistance.
+
+<p>About this time we began to brew a strong decoction of a species of dwarf-
+pine that grows here in great abundance, thinking that it might hereafter
+be useful in making beer, and that we should probably be able to procure
+sugar or molasses to ferment with it at Canton. At all events I was sure it
+would be serviceable as a medicine for the scurvy; and was more
+particularly desirous of supplying myself with as much of it as I could
+procure, because most of the preventatives we had brought out were either
+used, or spoiled by keeping. By the time we had prepared a hogshead of it,
+the ship's copper was discovered to be very thin, and cracked in many
+places. This obliged me to desist, and to give orders that it should be
+used as sparingly for the future as possible. It might, perhaps, be an
+useful precaution for those who may hereafter be engaged in long voyages of
+this kind, either to provide themselves with a spare copper, or to see that
+the copper usually furnished be of the strongest kind. The various extra-
+services, in which it will be found necessary to employ them, and
+especially the important one of making antiscorbutic decoctions, seem
+absolutely to require some such provision; and I should rather recommend
+the former, on account of the additional quantity of fuel that would be
+consumed in heating thick coppers.
+
+<p>In the morning of the 10th, the boats from both ships were sent to tow into
+the harbour a Russian galliot from Okotzk. She had been thirty-five days on
+her passage, and had been seen from the light-house a fortnight ago,
+beating up toward the mouth of the bay. At that time the crew had sent
+their only boat on shore for water, of which they now began to be in great
+want; and the wind freshening, the boat was lost on its return, and the
+galliot, being driven out to sea again, had suffered exceedingly.
+
+<p>There were fifty soldiers in her, with their wives and children, and
+several other passengers, besides the crew, which consisted of twenty-five,
+so that they had upward of an hundred souls on board. A great number for a
+vessel of eighty tons; and that was also heavy laden with stores and
+provisions. Both this galliot, and the sloop we saw here in May, are built
+like the Dutch doggers. Soon after she had come to anchor, we received a
+visit from a <i>put-parouchick</i>, or sub-lieutenant, who was a passenger in
+the galliot, and sent to take the command of this place. Part of the
+soldiers, we understood, were also designed to reinforce the garrison; and
+two pieces of small cannon were landed, as an additional defence to the
+town. It should seem, from these circumstances, that our visit here had
+drawn the attention of the Russian commanders in Siberia, to the
+defenceless situation of the place; and I was told by the honest serjeant,
+with many significant shrugs, that, as we had found our way into it, other
+nations might do the same, some of whom might not be altogether so
+welcome.[36]
+
+<blockquote>[36] By some strange anomaly in human nature, it would seem as if, in many
+cases, the apprehension of danger is in the inverse proportion of the
+amount of evil to be dreaded, or of the probability of its happening.
+Thus, the good people at Saint Peter and Saint Paul, who have but very
+little more reason to expect the intrusion of enemies, than if they
+dwelt in the regions of the North Pole, exhibit a remarkable degree of
+unnecessary suspicion on the occurrence of the most harmless, nay the
+most beneficial events. In addition to what is recorded in this
+voyage, we may mention an evidence of it in the case of Captain
+Krusenstern's last arrival among them, which happened sooner than they
+had looked for, notwithstanding his having previously intimated it. On
+the appearance of his vessel, the people immediately concluded it was
+an enemy, and some families began to fly with their effects to the
+neighbouring mountains. To them it seemed more natural, that some
+hostile power should send a vessel half round the globe in order to
+conquer a miserable spot, whose only riches was a few dried fish, and
+where a crew could scarcely subsist for two months, than that the ship
+in sight should belong to a friend whose arrival they had been
+instructed to expect. Nor were their fears quieted, till the solemn
+and strongly urged opinion of the soldier on duty, who, from his
+having been a companion of Captain Billing's, had the reputation of
+much knowledge in such matters, induced them to believe, that the form
+and rigging of the ship could be no other than those of their old
+acquaintance the Nadeshda!--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>Next morning the Resolution hauled off from the shore, having repaired the
+damages she had sustained by the ice; and, in the course of the day, we got
+from the galliot a small quantity of pitch, tar, cordage, and twine; canvas
+was the only thing we asked for, with which their scanty store did not put
+it into their power to supply us. We also received from her an hundred and
+forty skins of flour, amounting to 13,782 pounds English, after deducting
+five pounds for the weight of each bag.
+
+<p>We had a constant course of dry weather till this day, when there came on a
+heavy rain, accompanied with strong squalls of wind, which obliged us to
+strike our yards and topmasts.
+
+<p>The 12th, being Sunday, was kept as a day of rest; but the weather
+unfortunately continuing foul, our men could not derive the advantage from
+it we wished, by gathering the berries that grew in great quantities and
+varieties on the coast, and taking other pastime on shore. The same day
+Ensign Synd left us to return to Bolcheretsk with the remainder of the
+soldiers that came in the galliot. He had been our constant guest during
+his stay. Indeed we could not but consider him, on his father's account, as
+in some measure belonging to us, and entitled, as one of the family of
+discoverers, to a share in our affections.
+
+<p>We had hitherto admitted the serjeant to our tables, in consideration of
+his being commander of the place; and, moreover, because he was a quick,
+sensible man, and comprehended better than any other, the few Russian words
+we had learned. Ensign Synd had very politely suffered him to enjoy the
+same privileges during his stay; but, on the arrival of the new commander
+from Okotzk, the serjeant, for some cause or other, which we could not
+learn, fell into disgrace, and was no longer suffered to sit down in the
+company of his own officers. It was in vain to think of making any attempt
+to obtain an indulgence, which, though it would have been highly agreeable
+to us, was doubtless incompatible with their discipline.
+
+<p>On Wednesday we had finished the stowage of the holds, got on board all our
+wood and water, and were ready to put to sea at a day's notice. It is
+however necessary to observe, that though every thing was in this degree of
+readiness on board, the cattle were not yet arrived from Verchnei; and as
+fresh provisions were the most important article of our wants, and in a
+great measure necessary for the health of the men, we could not think of
+taking our departure without them. We therefore thought this a favourable,
+opportunity (especially as there was an appearance of fine weather) of
+taking some amusement on shore, and acquiring a little knowledge of the
+country. Accordingly Captain Gore proposed a party of bear-hunting, which
+we all very readily came into.
+
+<p>We did not set out on this expedition till Friday the 17th, in order to
+give a day's rest to the Hospodin Ivaskin, a new acquaintance, that was to
+be of our party, and who came down here on Wednesday. This gentleman who,
+we understood, usually resides at Verchnei, had been desired by Major Behm
+to attend us on our return to the harbour, in order to be our interpreter;
+and the accounts we had heard of him before his arrival had excited in us a
+great curiosity to see him.
+
+<p>He is of a considerable family in Russia. His father was a general in the
+empress's service; and he himself, after having received his education
+partly in France, and partly in Germany, had been page to the Empress
+Elizabeth, and an ensign in her guards. At the age of sixteen he was
+<i>knowted</i>, had his nose slit, and was banished first to Siberia, and
+afterward to Kamtschatka, where he had now lived thirty-one years. He was a
+very tall thin man, with a face all over furrowed with deep wrinkles; and
+bore in his whole figure the strongest marks of old age, though he had
+scarcely reached his fifty-fourth year.
+
+<p>To our very great disappointment he had so totally forgotten both his
+German and French, as not to be able to speak a sentence, nor readily to
+understand what was said to him in either of these languages. We found
+ourselves thus unfortunately deprived of what we flattered ourselves would
+have turned out a favourable opportunity of getting farther information
+relative to this country. We had also promised ourselves much pleasure from
+the history of this extraordinary man, which he probably would have been
+induced to relate to strangers, who might perhaps be of some little service
+to him, but who could have no inducement to take advantage from any thing
+he might say to do him an injury. No one here knew the cause of his
+banishment, but they took it for granted that it must have been for
+something very atrocious, particularly as two or three commanders of
+Kamtschatka have endeavoured to get him recalled since the present
+empress's reign; but far from succeeding in this, they have not been even
+able to get the place of his banishment changed. He told us that for twenty
+years he had not tasted bread, nor had been allowed subsistence of any kind
+whatsoever; but that during this period he had lived among the
+Kamtschadales on what his own activity and toil in the chase had furnished:
+That afterward he had a small pension granted; and that, since Major Behm
+came to the command, his situation had been, infinitely mended. The notice
+that worthy man had taken of him, and his having often invited him to
+become his guest, had been the occasion of others following his example;
+besides which, he had been the means of getting his pension increased to
+one hundred roubles a year, which is the common pay of an ensign in all
+parts of the empress's dominions, except in this province, where the pay of
+all the officers is double. Major Behm told us that he had obtained
+permission to take him to Okotzk, which was to be the place of his
+residence in future; but that he should leave him behind for the present,
+on an idea that he might, on our return to the bay, be useful to us as an
+interpreter.[37]
+
+<blockquote>[37] The singular personage here spoken of, was living near Saint Peter and
+Saint Paul in 1805, when Captain Krusenstern arrived there. He was at
+that time eighty-six years old, and had but lately obtained his
+liberty from the present emperor, who, besides other bounty, granted
+him a sum of money to cover his travelling expenses, if he chose to
+return to St Petersburg. The old man, however, was unable to bring his
+mind to undertake the journey, or even to venture the sea with
+Krusenstern; and in all probability, therefore, would end his days in
+the land of his captivity. We learn from the same authority, that
+Iwashkin had been banished in consequence of a report, apparently an
+unfounded one, that he had been engaged in a conspiracy against the
+Empress Elizabeth; and he is said to have been afterwards refused a
+pardon by Catharine, because he had been accused of murdering a man in
+the heat of passion. But for this circumstance, according to K., "the
+terms in which he is mentioned in Cook's voyage are such, as would not
+fail to meet with attention in Russia." These few additional
+particulars may add to whatever of interest is felt in Captain Kind's
+account of this exile. And even this may be enhanced to the
+susceptible mind by the remark, that old and worn out as Iwashkin
+appeared to Captain King, he nevertheless survived him at least twenty
+years, as the latter died at Nice, in Italy, in 1784.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>Having given orders to the first lieutenants of both ships, to let the
+rigging have such a repair as the supply of stores we had lately received
+would permit, we set out on our hunting party, under the direction of the
+corporal of the Kamtschadales, intending, before we began to look for our
+game, to proceed straight to the head of Behm's Harbour. It is an inlet on
+the west side of the bay, (which we had named after that officer, from its
+being a favourite place of his, and having been surveyed by himself,) and
+is called by the natives Tareinska.
+
+<p>In our way toward this harbour we met the <i>Toion</i> of Saint Peter and Saint
+Paul in a canoe, with his wife and two children, and another Kamtschadale.
+He had killed two seals upon a round island, that lies in the entrance of
+the harbour, with which, and a great quantity of berries that he had
+gathered, he was returning home. As the wind had veered to the S.W., we now
+changed our route by his advice; and, instead of going up the harbour,
+directed our course to the northward, toward a pool of water that lies near
+the mouth of the river Paratounca, and which was a known haunt of the
+bears. We had scarce landed, when unfortunately the wind changed to the
+eastward, and a second time destroyed all hopes of coming up with our game;
+for the Kamtschadales assured us, that it was in vain to expect to meet
+with bears, whilst we were to the windward, owing to their being possessed
+of an uncommon acuteness in scenting their pursuers, which enabled them,
+under such circumstances, to avoid the danger, whilst it is yet at a very
+great distance. We returned therefore to the boat, and passed the night on
+the beach, having brought a tent with us for that purpose, and the next
+day, by the advice of our guides, crossed the bay, and went to the head of
+Rakoweena Harbour.
+
+<p>Having here secured the boats, we proceeded with all our luggage on foot,
+and, after a walk of five or six miles, came to the sea-side, a league to
+the northward of the light-house head. From hence, as far as we could see
+toward Cheepoonskoi Noss, there is a continued narrow border of low level
+ground adjoining to the sea, which is covered with heath, and produces
+great abundance of berries, particularly those called partridge and crow
+berries. We were told we should not fail to meet with a number of bears
+feeding upon those berries; but that the weather being showery, was
+unfavourable for us.
+
+<p>Accordingly we directed our course along this plain, and, though we saw
+several bears at a distance, we could never, with all our management,
+contrive to get within shot of them. Our diversion was therefore changed to
+spearing of salmon, which we saw pushing in great numbers through the surf
+into a small river. I could not help observing how much inferior our
+Kamtschadales were, at this method of fishing, to the people at Oonalashka;
+nor were their instruments, although pointed with iron, near so good for
+the purpose, nor to be compared in neatness to those of the Americans,
+though pointed only with bone. On enquiring into the reason of this
+inferiority, I was informed by the corporal, who had lived many years
+amongst the Americans, that formerly the Kamtschadales made use of the same
+kind of darts and spears with the Americans, headed and barbed with bone,
+and were not less dexterous in the management of them than the latter. We
+could not understand one another sufficiently for me to learn the cause of
+this change; probably it was one of the not unusual effects of a forced and
+imperfect state of improvement. It fell out very opportunely that the water
+afforded us a little prey; for, besides our ill success in the chase by
+land, we had also been disappointed in our expectations of shooting wild
+fowl, on a supply of which we had in some measure depended for our
+subsistence; and, on its failure, began to think that we had been full long
+absent from head quarters.
+
+<p>Our Kamtschadales now discovered that the want of success in not meeting
+with game, was owing to the party being too large, and to the unavoidable
+noise that was the consequence of it. We therefore agreed to separate,
+Ivaskin, the corporal, and myself, forming one party, Captain Gore, and the
+rest of the company, the other.
+
+<p>Accordingly, after passing the night under our tent, we set out on the
+morning of the 19th, by different routes, meaning to take a circuit round
+the country, and meet at Saint Peter and Saint Paul. The party to which I
+belonged took the course of the river, at the mouth of which we had fished
+for the salmon; and, after being thoroughly soaked by the heavy rains that
+fell all the morning, we came about three in the afternoon to some old
+<i>balagans</i>, where a Kamtschadale village had been formerly situated,
+without meeting with a single bear during the whole of a long and tedious
+walk. It was our first intention to have remained here all night, in order
+to have resumed our chase early the next morning; but the weather clearing,
+and, at the same time, a fresh breeze springing up from a quarter
+unfavourable to our designs, the Hospodin, whom former sufferings had made
+very unfit to bear much fatigue, and who seemed at present more
+particularly distressed from having emptied his snuff-box, began to be very
+importunate with us to return home. It was some time before the old
+corporal consented, alleging, that we were at a great distance from the
+harbour, and that, on account of the badness of the way, the night would
+probably overtake us before we reached the end of our journey. At length,
+however, he yielded to Ivaskin's entreaties, and conducted us along the
+side of a number of small lakes, with which the flat part of this country
+seems much to abound. These lakes are from half a mile to two miles in
+length, and about half a mile broad; the water is fresh and clear, and they
+are full of a red-coloured fish, resembling, both in shape and size, a
+small salmon; of which a more particular description will be given
+hereafter. The banks of these lakes were covered with fragments of fish
+that the bears had half eaten, and which caused an intolerable stench. We
+often came upon the spots which the bears had just left, but were never
+able even to come within sight of them.
+
+<p>It was night before we reached the ships, and we had then been twelve hours
+upon our legs. Poor Ivaskin found himself exceedingly tired and overcome
+with fatigue; probably he was more sensible of it for want of a supply of
+snuff; for every step he took his hand dived mechanically into his pocket,
+and drew out his huge empty box. We had scarcely got into the tent, when
+the weather set in exceedingly rough and wet. We congratulated ourselves
+that we had not staid out another day, the Hospodin's box was replenished,
+and we forgot the fatigues and ill success of our expedition over a good
+supper.
+
+<p>I was exceedingly sorry, on being told the next day, that our friend the
+serjeant had undergone corporal punishment during our absence, by command
+of the old <i>Putparouchick</i>. None of our people had been able to learn, what
+was the cause of his displeasure; but it was imagined to have arisen from
+some little jealousy subsisting between them, on account of the civility
+which we had shewn to the former. However, having every reason to believe
+that the offence, whatever it might be, did not call for so disgraceful a
+chastisement, we could not help being both sorry and much provoked at it,
+as the terms on which we had lived with him, and the interest we were known
+to take in his affairs, made the affront, in some measure, personal to
+ourselves; for it has not yet been mentioned, that we had consulted with
+the late worthy commander, Major Behm, who was also his friend, by what
+means we might be most likely to succeed in doing him some service for the
+good order he had kept in the <i>ostrog</i> during our stay, and for his
+readiness on all occasions to oblige us. The major advised a letter of
+recommendation to the governor-general, which Captain Clerke had
+accordingly given him, and which, backed with his own representations, he
+had no doubt would get the serjeant advanced a step higher in his
+profession.
+
+<p>We did not choose to make any remonstrance on this subject till the arrival
+of Captain Shmaleff. Indeed our inability, from the want of language, to
+enter into any discussion of the business, made it advisable to come to
+this determination. However, when the <i>Putparouchick</i> paid us his next
+visit, we could not help testifying our chagrin by receiving him very
+coolly.
+
+<p>The 22d being the anniversary of his majesty's coronation, twenty-one guns
+were fired, and the handsomest feast our situation would allow of, was
+prepared, in honour of the day. As we were sitting down to dinner, the
+arrival of Captain Shmaleff was announced. This was a most agreeable
+surprise; in the first place, because he arrived so opportunely to partake
+of the good fare and festivity of the occasion; and, in the next, because,
+in our last accounts of him, we were given to understand, that the effects
+of a severe illness had made him unequal to the journey. We were glad to
+find this had been merely an excuse; that, in fact, he was ashamed of
+coming empty-handed, knowing we must be in great want of tea, sugar, &amp;c.
+&amp;c.; and that therefore he had deferred his setting out, in daily
+expectation of the sloop from Okotzk; but having no tidings of her, and
+dreading lest we should sail, without his having paid us a visit, he was
+determined to set out, though with nothing better to present to us than
+apologies for the poverty of Bolcheretsk. At the same time he acquainted
+us, that our not having received the sixteen head of black cattle we had
+desired might be sent down, was owing to the very heavy rains at Verchnei,
+which had prevented their setting out. We made the best answer we were able
+to so much politeness and generosity; and the next day, on coming on board
+the Resolution, he was saluted with eleven guns. Specimens of all our
+curiosities were presented to him, and Captain Gore added to them a gold
+watch and a fowling-piece.
+
+<p>The next day he was entertained on board the Discovery, and on the 25th he
+took leave of us to return to Bolcheretsk. He could not be prevailed upon
+to lengthen his visit, having some expectations, as he told us, that the
+sub-governor-general, who was at this time making a tour through all the
+provinces of the Governor-general of Jakutzk, might arrive in the sloop
+that was daily expected from Okotzk. Before his departure, and without any
+interference of ours, he reinstated the serjeant in the command of this
+place, having determined to take the <i>Putparouchick</i> along with him; at the
+same time we understood that he was highly displeased with him on account
+of the punishment that had been inflicted on the serjeant, and for which
+there did not appear to be the slightest foundation.
+
+<p>Captain Shmaleff's great readiness to give us every possible proof of his
+desire to oblige us, encouraged us to ask a small favour for another of our
+Kamtschadale friends. It was to requite an old soldier, whose house had
+been at all times open to the inferior officers, and who had done both them
+and all the crew a thousand good offices. The captain most obligingly
+complied with our request, and dubbed him (which was all he wished for) a
+corporal upon the spot, and ordered him to thank the English officers for
+his great promotion. It may not here be improper to observe, that in the
+Russian army the inferior class of officers enjoy a degree of pre-eminence
+above the private men, with which we, in our service, are in a great
+measure unacquainted. It was no small astonishment to us, to see a serjeant
+keep up all the state, and exact all the respect from all beneath him
+belonging to a field-officer. It may be farther remarked, that there are
+many more gradations of rank amongst them than are to be met with in other
+countries. Between a serjeant and a private man, there are not less than
+four intermediate steps; and I have no doubt, but that the advantages
+arising from this system are found to be very considerable. The salutary
+effects of little subordinate ranks in our sea-service cannot be
+questioned. It gives rise to great emulation, and the superior officers are
+enabled to bestow, on almost every possible degree of merit, a reward
+proportioned to it.
+
+<p>Having been incidentally led into this subject, I shall beg leave to add
+but one observation more, namely, that the discipline of the Russian army,
+though at this distance from the seat of government, is of the strictest
+and severest kind, from which even the commissioned officers are not
+exempt. The punishment of the latter for small offences is imprisonment,
+and a bread and water diet. An ensign, a good friend of ours at this place,
+told us, that, for having been concerned in a drunken riot, he was confined
+in the black hole for three months, and fed upon bread and water; which, he
+said, so shattered his nerves, that he had never since had spirits for a
+common convivial meeting.
+
+<p>I accompanied Captain Shmaleff to the entrance of Awatska River; and having
+bid him farewell, took this opportunity of paying a visit to the priest of
+Paratounca. On Sunday, the 26th, I attended him to church. The congregation
+consisted of his own family, three Kamtschadale men, and three boys, who
+assisted in singing part of the service; the whole of which was performed
+in a very solemn and edifying manner. The church is of wood, and by far the
+best building either in this town or that of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. It
+is ornamented with many paintings, particularly with two pictures of Saint
+Peter and Saint Paul, presented by Beering; and which, in the real richness
+of their drapery, would carry off the prize from the first of our European
+performances; for all the principal parts of it are made of thick plates of
+solid silver, fastened to the canvas, and fashioned into the various
+foldings of the robes with which the figures were clothed.
+
+<p>The next day, I set on foot another hunting party, and put myself under the
+direction of the clerk of the parish, who was a celebrated bear-hunter. We
+arrived by sun-set, at the side of one of the larger lakes. The next step
+was to conceal ourselves as much as possible; and this we were able to do
+effectually, among some long grass and brushwood, that grew close to the
+water's edge. We had not lain long in ambush, before we had the pleasure to
+hear the growlings of bears in different parts round about us; and our
+expectations were soon gratified, by the sight of one of them in the water,
+which seemed to be swimming directly to the place where we lay hid. The
+moon, at this time, gave a considerable light; and when the animal had
+advanced about fifteen yards, three of us fired at it, pretty nearly at the
+same time. The beast immediately turned short on one side, and set up a
+noise, which could not properly be called roaring, nor growling, nor
+yelling, but was a mixture of all three, and horrible beyond description.
+We plainly saw that it was severely wounded, and that with difficulty it
+gained the bank, and retreated to some thick bushes at a little distance.
+It still continued to make the same loud and terrible noise; and though the
+Kamtschadales were persuaded it was mortally wounded, and could get no
+farther, yet they thought it most advisable not to rouse it again for the
+present. It was at this time past nine o'clock; and the night becoming
+overcast, and threatening a change of weather, we thought it most prudent
+to return home, and defer the gratification of our curiosity till morning,
+when we returned to the spot, and found the bear dead, in the place to
+which it had been watched. It proved to be a female, and beyond the common
+size.
+
+<p>As the account of our first hunting-party will be apt to give the reader a
+wrong idea of the method in which this sport is usually conducted, it may
+not be amiss to add a few more words on the subject; and which I am the
+better able to do since this last expedition.
+
+<p>When the natives come to the ground frequented by the bears, which they
+contrive to reach about sun-set, the first step is to look for their
+tracks; to examine which are the freshest, and the best situated with a
+view to concealment; and taking aim at the beast, either as he is passing
+by, or advancing in front, or going from them. These tracks are found in
+the greatest numbers, leading from the woods down to the lakes, and among
+the long sedgy grass and brakes by the edge of the water. The place of
+ambuscade being determined upon, the hunters next fix in the ground the
+crutches, upon which their firelocks are made to rest, pointing them in the
+direction they mean to make their shot. This done, they kneel, or lie down,
+as the circumstances of the cover require; and, with their bear-spears by
+their side, wait for their game. These precautions, which are chiefly taken
+in order to make sure of their mark, are, on several accounts, highly
+expedient. For, in the first place, ammunition is so dear at Kamtschatka,
+that the price of a bear will not purchase more of it than is sufficient to
+load a musquet four or five times; and, what, is more material, if the bear
+be not rendered incapable of pursuit by the first shot, the consequences
+are often fatal. He immediately makes toward the place from whence the
+noise and smoke issue, and attacks his adversaries with great fury. It is
+impossible for them to reload, as the animal is seldom at more than twelve
+or fifteen yards distance when he is fired at; so that if he does not fall,
+they immediately put themselves in a posture to receive him upon their
+spears; and their safety greatly depends on their giving him a mortal stab,
+as he first comes upon them. If he parries the thrust, (which, by the
+extraordinary strength and agility of their paws, they are often enabled to
+do,) and thereby breaks in upon his adversaries, the conflict becomes very
+unequal, and it is well if the life of one of the party alone suffice to
+pay the forfeit.[38]
+
+<blockquote>[38] It may not be ill-timed to mention here, what Captain Krusenstern says
+as to the scarcity of gunpowder in Kamtschatka, to which Captain King
+alludes in his account of bear-hunting. It is owing to the deficiency
+of this article, that the inhabitants are so seldom provided with
+certain luxuries of the table, as the wild sheep, or <i>argalis</i>, rein-
+deer, hares, ducks, and geese, with most or all of which the country
+is tolerably well stocked. The conveyance of this most useful material
+from the provinces of European Russia, is both difficult and exposed
+to different accidents; such as getting wet, or, what is still worse,
+taking fire; in consequence of which latter occurrence, it is said,
+whole villages have been destroyed. To prevent this mischief, as much
+as possible, we are informed, that gunpowder is now forbidden to be
+brought for private sale. This prohibition, as is usual in all such
+cases, is often evaded, and, by augmenting the price of the article,
+of course excites the stronger disposition on the part of the merchant
+to introduce it. The Kamtschadale, therefore, purchases powder
+secretly, and at a very high price; he uses it sparingly, and that
+only for defence against bears; or to kill some animal, whose skin he
+knows will repay the cost of getting it. As, in many respects, it is
+an article of indispensable necessity, and as therefore the people
+must have it in some way or other, Captain Krusenstern recommends,
+that, with many other commodities, it should be sent from
+Cronstadt.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>There are two seasons of the year when this diversion, or occupation, as it
+may be rather called, is more particularly dangerous; in the spring, when
+the bears first come forth, after having subsisted, as is universally
+asserted here, on sucking their paws through the winter; and especially if
+the frost happen to be severe, and the ice not to be broken up in the lake
+at that time, by which means they are deprived of their ordinary and
+expected food. Under these circumstances, they soon become exceedingly
+famished, and fierce and savage in proportion. They will pursue the natives
+by the scent; and as they now prowl about out of their usual tracks,
+frequently come upon them unawares; and when this happens, as the
+Kamtschadales have not the smallest notion of shooting flying, nor even at
+an animal running, or in any way except with their piece on a rest, the
+bear-hunters often fall a sacrifice to their hunger. The other season in
+which it is dangerous to come in their way, is at the time of their
+copulation, which is generally about this time of the year.
+
+<p>An extraordinary instance of natural affection in these animals has been
+already mentioned. The chace affords a variety of a similar nature, and not
+less affecting; many of which were related to me. The Kamtschadales derive
+great advantage in hunting from this circumstance. They, never venture to
+fire upon a young bear, when the mother is near; for if the cub drop, she
+becomes enraged to a degree little short of madness; and if she get sight
+of the enemy, will only quit her revenge with her life. On the contrary, if
+the dam be shot, the cubs will not leave her side, even after she has been
+dead a long time, but continue about her, shewing, by a variety of
+affecting actions and gestures, marks of the deepest affliction, and thus
+become any easy prey to the hunters.
+
+<p>Nor is the sagacity of the bears, if the Kamtschadales are to be credited,
+less extraordinary, or less worthy to be remarked, than their natural
+affection. Of this they have a thousand stories to relate. I shall content
+myself with mentioning one instance, which the natives speak of as a well-
+known fact, and that is, the stratagem they have recourse to in order to
+catch the bareins, which are considerably too swift of foot for them. These
+animals keep together in large herds; they frequent mostly the low grounds,
+and love to browse at the feet of rocks and precipices. The bear hunts them
+by scent, till he come in sight, when he advances warily, keeping above
+them, and concealing himself amongst the rocks, as he makes his approaches,
+till he gets immediately over them, and nigh enough for his purpose. He
+then begins to push down with his paws pieces of the rock amongst the herd
+below. This manoeuvre is not followed by any attempt to pursue, until he
+find he has maimed one of the flock, upon which a course immediately
+ensues, that proves successful, or otherwise, according to the hurt the
+barein has received.[39]
+
+<blockquote>[39] The reader will probably not dislike to see another instance of the
+bear's cunning, in the mode of catching a peculiar sort of fish called
+<i>kachly</i>, which abounds in Kamtschatka, and of which he is exceedingly
+fond. We are told by Krusenstern, that as soon as this animal
+perceives the shoals of <i>kachly</i> going up the river, he places himself
+in the water, within a short distance of the bank, and in such a
+position of his legs, as that the fish, which always goes straight
+forward, may have just space enough to pass between them. He then
+watches his opportunity, when a good many have entered the snare, to
+press his legs together, so as to inclose his prey, with which, at one
+spring, he jumps on shore, where he devours them at his leisure. This
+practice is much to be commended for the spirit of independence it
+indicates; but not so another one, which some authors have charged
+against these sagacious animals, viz. dragging the fishermen's nets
+out of the water, during their absence, and then robbing them of the
+fish they contained. Mr Bingley's Animal Biography, where this piece
+of pilfering is mentioned, may be advantageously consulted for several
+amusing notices respecting the habits and capabilities of this
+creature, which are quite in unison with Captain King's account.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>I cannot conclude this digression, without observing, that the
+Kamtschadales very thankfully acknowledge their obligations to the bears
+for what little advancement they have hitherto made either in the sciences
+or polite arts. They confess that they owe to them all their skill both to
+physic and surgery; that, by remarking with what herbs these animals rub
+the wounds they have received, and what they have recourse to when sick and
+languid, they have become acquainted with most of the simples in use among
+them, either in the way of internal medicine, or external application. But,
+what will appear somewhat more singular, is, they acknowledge the bears
+likewise for their dancing-masters. Indeed, the evidence of one's senses
+puts this out of dispute; for the bear-dance of the Kamtschadales is an
+exact counterpart of every attitude and gesture peculiar to this animal,
+through its various functions; and this is the foundation and groundwork of
+all their other dances, and what they value themselves most upon.
+
+<p>I returned to the ships on the 28th, very well pleased with my excursion,
+as it had afforded me an opportunity of seeing a little more of the
+country, and of observing the manners and behaviour of the Kamtschadales,
+when freed from that constraint which they evidently lie under in the
+company of the Russians.
+
+<p>No occurrence worth mentioning took place till the 30th, when Captain Gore
+went to Paratounca, to put up in the church there an escutcheon, prepared
+by Mr Webber, with an inscription upon it, setting forth Captain Clerke's
+age and rank, and the object of the expedition in which he was engaged at
+the time of his decease. We also affixed to the tree under which he was
+buried, a board, with an inscription upon it to the same effect.[40]
+
+<blockquote>[40] The interest of the following passage, from the account of
+Krusenstern's voyage, will form the only apology necessary for the
+largeness of the space it occupies. "As it was evident, upon our
+arrival, that the many things necessary to be done on board, would
+occupy a space of not less than four or five weeks, the officers of
+the ship had formed a plan of renewing the monument which had been
+erected to Captain Clerke. From Cook's and La Perouse's voyage, it is
+well known that Clerke was buried in the town of Saint Peter and St
+Saint Paul, under a large tree, to which a board, with an inscription,
+was affixed, mentioning his death, his age and rank, and the object of
+the expedition, in which he lost his life. We found the escutcheon,
+painted by Webber, the draughtsman of the Resolution, and suspended by
+Captain King in the church at Paratunka, in the portico of Major
+Krupskoy's house, nor did any one appear to know what connection it
+had with this painted board; and as there has been no church for many
+years either in Paratunka or Saint Peter and Saint Paul, it was very
+fortunate that the escutcheon was not entirely lost. La Perouse,
+finding the board on the tree rotting very fast, had the inscription
+copied on a plate of copper, adding, that it had been restored by him;
+and as this inscription is not given in Cook's voyage, and every thing
+relative to him and his companion must be interesting to all, I cannot
+avoid transcribing it here from La Perouse's copy.
+
+<p>"At The Root Of This Tree Lies The Body Of<br>
+   Captain Charles Clerke,<br>
+Who Succeeded To The Command Of His Britannic<br>
+  Majesty's Ships, The Resolution And<br>
+Discovery, On The Death Of Captain James Cook, Who<br>
+ Was Unfortunately Killed By The Natives<br>
+  At An Island In The South Sea<br>
+  On The 14TH Of February In The Year 1779,<br>
+And Died At Sea Of A Lingering Consumption The<br>
+  22ND August In The Same Year, Aged 38.</p
+
+<p> * * * * *
+
+<p>"Copié sur l'inscription Angloise par ordre de M^r le C^{te} de la
+Perouse chef d'Escadre, en 1787.
+
+<p>"This plate La Perouse caused to be nailed on the wooden monument. We
+found it there, although it had more than once been removed. The
+monument itself, however, appeared to promise but short duration; for
+the tree, which was more than half decayed, could not stand above a
+few years longer, and it was become necessary to raise a more durable
+one to Cook's companion. We also found the coffin, containing the
+remains of De Lisle de la Croyère, as we were digging up the ground, a
+few paces from Clerke's tomb, after having long sought for it in vain.
+La Perouse had erected a monument to him also; and, upon a copper-
+plate, had engraved an inscription, containing a few of the
+particulars of his life. Of this there was not the least vestige
+remaining, though no longer space than eighteen years had since
+elapsed. The <i>memento</i> of these two persons, equally skilled in the
+science of navigation, and who had both lost their lives in one of the
+most inhospitable quarters of the globe, could now be united in one
+monument; and, for this purpose, a durable pedestal of wood was
+erected as near as possible to the old tree, in order still to
+preserve the locality; and over this a pyramid; on one side of which,
+the plate, which La Perouse had engraved, was fastened; and on the
+opposite side, a copy of Captain Clerke's escutcheon, made for the
+occasion by M. Tilesius. On the other two sides were the following
+inscriptions, in Russian: 'In the first voyage round the world,
+undertaken by the Russians, under the command of Captain Krusenstern,
+the officers of the ship Nadeshda erected this monument to the memory
+of the English captain, Clerke, on the 15th September 1805.'
+
+<p>"And on the side facing the south: 'Here rest the ashes of De Lisle de
+la Croyère, the astronomer attached to the expedition commanded by
+Commodore Behring, in the year 1741.'
+
+<p>"This monument was constructed under the direction of Lieutenant
+Ratmanoff; and his anxiety to complete it previous to our departure,
+made him overcome every difficulty in the way of such an undertaking
+in Kamtschatka. It would have been an injustice in me not to have
+supported and contributed by all the means in my power to its
+completion; and as I gave them not only workmen, but also such
+materials as we had on board the ship, we had the satisfaction of
+seeing it entirely completed previous to our departure. A deep ditch
+surrounded the whole; and, in order to screen it against any
+accidental injury, it was inclosed in a high paling, the door of which
+was to be kept constantly locked, and the key to remain in the hands
+of the governor of Saint Peter and Saint Paul."
+
+<p>Every heart that is capable of humane emotions will respect this
+labour infinitely beyond either the magnitude or the importance of its
+effects, and will gladly applaud the virtuous sentiment that prompts
+generous minds, in defiance of the narrow and perishable distinction
+of name and nation, to reverence the kindred excellence and the common
+lot of their fellow creatures.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>Before his departure, Captain Gore left orders with me to get the ships out
+of the harbour into the bay, to be in readiness to sail. We were prevented
+from doing this by a violent gale of wind, which lasted the whole day of
+the 1st of October. However, on the 2d, both ships warped out of the
+harbour, clear of the narrow passage, and came to anchor in seven fathoms,
+a quarter of a mile from the <i>ostrog</i>.
+
+<p>The day before we went out of the harbour the cattle arrived from Verchnei;
+and, that the men might receive the full benefit of this capital and much-
+longed-for supply, by consuming it fresh, Captain Gore came to a
+determination of staying five or six days longer. Nor was this time idly
+employed. The boats, pumps, sails, and rigging of both ships, thereby
+received an additional repair. And Captain Gore sparing me some molasses,
+and the use of the Resolution's copper, I was enabled to brew a fortnight's
+beer for the crew, and to make a farther provision of ten puncheons of
+strong spruce essence. The present supply was the more acceptable, as our
+last cask of spirits, except a small quantity left in reserve for cases of
+necessity, was now serving out.
+
+<p>The 3d was the name-day of the Empress, and we could want no inducement to
+shew it every possible respect. Accordingly, Captain Gore invited the
+priest of Paratounca, Ivaskin, and the serjeant, to dinner; and an
+entertainment was also provided for the inferior officers of the garrison;
+for the two <i>Toions</i> of Paratounca and Saint Peter and Saint Paul, and for
+the other better sort of Kamtschadale inhabitants. The rest of the natives,
+of every description, were invited to partake with the ships' companies,
+who had a pound of good fat beef served out to each man; and what remained
+of our spirits was made into grog, and divided amongst them. A salute of
+twenty-one guns was fired at the usual hour; and the whole was conducted
+(considering the part of her dominion it was in) in a manner not unworthy
+so renowned and magnificent an empress.
+
+<p>On the 5th, we received from Bolcheretsk a fresh supply of tea, sugar, and
+tobacco. This present had met Captain Shmaleff on his return, and was
+accompanied by a letter from him, in which he informed us, that the sloop
+from Okotzk had arrived during his absence; and that Madame Shmaleff, who
+was entirely in our interests, had lost no time in dispatching a courier
+with the few presents, of which our acceptance was requested.
+
+<p>The appearance of foul weather on the 6th and 7th, prevented our unmooring;
+but on the morning of the 8th, we sailed out toward the mouth of the bay,
+and hoisted in all the boats, when the wind, veering to the southward,
+stopped our farther progress, and obliged us to drop anchor in ten fathoms;
+the <i>ostrog</i> bearing due north, half a league distant.
+
+<p>The weather being foggy, and the wind from the same quarter during the
+forenoon of the 9th, we continued in our station. At four in the afternoon
+we again unmoored; but whilst we were with great difficulty weighing our
+last anchor, I was told that the drummer of the marines had left the boat
+which had just returned from the village, and that he was last seen with a
+Kamtschadale woman, to whom his messmates knew he had been much attached,
+and who had often been observed persuading him to stay behind. Though this
+man had been long useless to us, from a swelling in his knee, which
+rendered him lame, yet this made me the more unwilling he should be left
+behind, to become a miserable burden both to the Russians and himself. I
+therefore got the serjeant to send parties of soldiers, in different
+directions, in search of him, whilst some of our sailors went to a well-
+known haunt of his in the neighbourhood, where they found him with his
+woman. On the return of this party, with our deserter, we weighed, and
+followed the Resolution out of the bay.
+
+<p>Having at length taken our leave of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, I shall
+conclude this section with a particular description of Awatska Bay, and the
+coast adjoining; not only because (its three inlets included) it
+constitutes, perhaps, the most extensive and safest harbour that has yet
+been discovered, but because it is the only port in this part of the world
+capable of admitting ships of any considerable burden. The term Bay,
+indeed, is perhaps not applicable, properly speaking, to a place so well
+sheltered as Awatska; but, then, it must be observed, that, from the loose
+undistinguishing manner in which navigators have denominated certain
+situations of sea and land, with respect to each other, bays, roads,
+sounds, harbours, &amp;c. we have no defined and determinate ideas affixed to
+these words, sufficient to warrant us in changing a popular name for one
+that may appear more proper.
+
+<p>The entrance into this bay is in 52° 51' north latitude, and 158° 48' east
+longitude, and lies in the bight of another exterior bay, formed by
+Cheepoonskoi Noss to the N., and Cape Gavareea to the S. The former of
+these head lands bears from the latter N.E. by N. 3/4 E., and is distant
+thirty-two leagues. The coast from Cape Gavareea to the entrance of Awatska
+Bay, takes a direction nearly N., and is eleven leagues in extent. It
+consists of a chain of high ragged cliffs, with detached rocks frequently
+lying off them. This coast, at a distance, presents in many parts an
+appearance of bays or inlets, but, on a nearer approach, the head-lands
+were found connected by low ground.
+
+<p>Cheepoonskoi Noss bears, from the entrance of the bay, E.N.E. 1/4 E, and is
+twenty-five leagues distant. On this side the shore is low and flat, with
+hills rising behind to a considerable height. In the latitude of Cape
+Gavareea there is an error of twenty-one miles in the Russian charts, its
+true latitude being 52° 21'.
+
+<p>This striking difference of the land on each side Awatska Bay, with their
+different bearings, are the best guides to steer for it in coming from the
+southward; and, in approaching it from the northward, Cheepoonskoi Noss
+will make itself very conspicuous; for it is a high projecting head-land,
+with a considerable extent of level ground lower than the Noss, uniting it
+to the continent. It presents the same appearance, whether viewed from the
+north or south, and will warn the mariner not to be deceived in imagining
+Awatska Bay to lie in the bight which the coast forms to the northward of
+this Noss, and which might be the case, from the striking resemblance there
+is between a conical hill within this bight or bay, and one to the south of
+Awatska Bay.
+
+<p>I have been thus particular in giving a minute description of this coast,
+from our own experience of the want of it. For had we been furnished with a
+tolerable account of the form of the coast on each side of Awatska Bay, we
+should, on our first arrival upon it, have got safely within the bay two
+days before we did, and thereby have avoided part of the stormy weather
+which came on when we were plying off the mouth of the harbour. Besides,
+from the prevalence of fogs in these seas, it must frequently happen, that
+an observation for ascertaining the latitude cannot be got; to which we may
+add, that the deceptive appearances land makes when covered with snow, and
+when viewed through an hazy atmosphere, both which circumstances prevail
+here during the greatest part of the year, render the knowledge of a
+variety of discriminating objects the more necessary.
+
+<p>Should, however, the weather be clear enough to admit a view of the
+mountains on the coast in its neighbourhood, these will serve to point out
+the situation of Awatska Bay, with a great deal of precision. For to the
+south of it are two high mountains; that which is nearest to the bay, is
+shaped like a sugar-loaf; the other, which is farther inland, does not
+appear so high, and is flat at the top. To the north of the bay, are three
+very conspicuous mountains; the westernmost is, to appearance, the highest;
+the next is the <i>volcano</i> mountain, which may be known from the smoke that
+issues from its top, and likewise from some high table-hills connected with
+it, and stretching to the northward; these two are somewhat peaked. The
+third, and the most northerly, might perhaps be more properly called a
+cluster of mountains, as it presents to the sight several flat tops.
+
+<p>When the navigator has got within the capes, and into the outward bay, a
+perpendicular head-land, with a lighthouse erected upon it, will point out
+the entrance of the bay of Awatska to the northward. To the eastward of
+this head-land lie many sunken rocks, stretching into the sea, to the
+distance of two or three miles; and which will shew themselves, if there be
+but a moderate sea or swell. Four miles to the south of the entrance lies a
+small round island, very distinguishable from being principally composed of
+high pointed rocks, with one of them strikingly remarkable, as being much
+larger, more peaked and perpendicular than the rest.
+
+<p>It is no way necessary to be equally particular in the description of the
+bay itself, as of its approaches and environs; since no words can give the
+mariner a perfect idea of it. The entrance is at first near three miles
+wide, and in the narrowest part one mile and a half, and four miles long,
+in a N.N.W. direction. Within the mouth is a noble bason of twenty-five
+miles circuit, with the capacious harbours of Tareinska to the W., of
+Rakoweena to the E., and the small one of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, where
+we lay, to the N.
+
+<p>Tareinska harbour is about three miles in breadth, and twelve in length; it
+stretches to the E.S.E., and is separated from the sea, at the bottom, by a
+narrow neck of land. The road into this harbour is perfectly free from
+rocks or shoals. We had never less than seven fathoms water, as far as our
+survey extended; for we were not able to get to the bottom of the harbour
+on account of the ice.
+
+<p>The harbour of Rakoweena would deserve the preference over the other two,
+if its entrance were not impeded by a shoal lying in the middle of the
+channel; which, in general, will make it necessary to warp in, unless there
+be a leading wind. It is from one mile to half a mile in width, and three
+miles long, running at first in a S.E., and afterward in an easterly
+direction. Its depth is from thirteen to three fathoms.
+
+<p>Saint Peter and Saint Paul's is one of the most convenient little harbours
+I ever saw. It will hold conveniently half a dozen ships, moored head and
+stern; and is fit for giving them any kind of repairs. The south side is
+formed by a low sandy neck, exceedingly narrow, on which the <i>ostrog</i> is
+built; and whose point may almost be touched by ships going in, having
+three fathoms water close in with it. In the mid channel, which is no more
+than two hundred and seventy-eight feet across, there are six fathoms and a
+half; the deepest water within is seven fathoms; and in every part over a
+muddy bottom. We found some inconvenience from the toughness of the ground,
+which constantly broke the messenger, and gave us a great deal of trouble
+in getting up the anchors. There is a watering-place at the head of the
+harbour.
+
+<p>The plan we drew points out the shoal to be avoided, lying off the eastern
+harbour, as well as the spit within the entrance, stretching from the S.W.
+shore, and over which there are only three fathoms water. In order to steer
+clear of the latter, a small island, or perhaps it may rather be called a
+large detached rock, lying on the west shore of the entrance, is to be shut
+in with the land to the south of it; and to steer clear of the former, the
+Three Needle Rocks, which lie on the east shore of the entrance near the
+light-house head, are to be kept open with the head-lands (or bluff-heads)
+that rise to the northward of the first small bay, or bending, observable
+on the east side of the entrance. When arrived to the north of the north
+head-land of the eastern harbour, the shoal is past.
+
+<p>In sailing into the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, and approaching
+the village, it is necessary to keep in close to the eastern shore, in
+order to avoid a spit which runs from the head-land to the S.W. of the
+town.[41]
+
+<blockquote>[41] Every reader will be pleased to learn, that Krusenstern bears ample
+testimony to the general accuracy of Captain King's drawings and
+descriptions of the bay, &amp;c. This intimation is probably sufficient
+for most persons, without any special exemplification of the
+coincidences betwixt these two writers.--F.</blockquote>
+
+<p>Before I proceed to give a table of the result of our astronomical
+observations at this place, it may be proper to acquaint the reader, that
+the time-keeper we had on board the Resolution, which was an exact copy of
+that invented by Mr Harrison, and executed by Mr Kendal, stopped on the
+27th of April, a few days before we first came into Awatska Bay. It had
+been always kept with the most scrupulous care during the voyage, having
+never been trusted for a moment into any other hands than those of Captain
+Cook and mine. No accident could therefore have happened to it, to which we
+could attribute its stopping; nor could it have arisen from the effects of
+intense cold, as the thermometer was very little below the freezing point.
+As soon as the discovery was made, I consulted with Captain Clerke what
+course it was best to pursue; whether to let it remain as it was, entirely
+useless to us, for the purpose of satisfying the curious at home, where it
+was sure of being examined by proper judges, or suffer it to be inspected
+by a seaman on board, who had served a regular apprenticeship to a
+watchmaker in London, and appeared sufficiently knowing in the business,
+from his success in cleaning and repairing several watches since we had
+been out. The advantages we had derived from its accuracy, made us
+extremely unwilling to be deprived of its use during the remaining part of
+the voyage; and that object appeared to us to be of much greater importance
+than the small degree of probability, which we understood was all that
+could be expected, of obtaining any material knowledge respecting its
+mechanism, by deferring the inspection of it. At the same time, it should
+be remembered, that the watch had already a sufficient trial, both in the
+former voyage and during the three years we had now had it on board to
+ascertain its utility. On these considerations, we took the opportunity of
+the first clear day, after our arrival in Awatska Bay, of opening the
+watch, which was done in the captain's cabin, and in our presence. The
+watchmaker found no part of the work broken; but not being able to set it
+a-going, he proceeded to take off the cock and balance, and cleaned both
+the pivot-holes, which he found very foul, and the rest of the work rather
+dirty; he also took off the dial-plate; and, between two teeth of the wheel
+that carries the second-hand, found a piece of dirt, which he imagined to
+be the principal cause of its stopping. Having afterward put the work
+together, and oiled it as sparingly as possible, the watch appeared to go
+free and well.
+
+<p>Having received orders the next day to go to Bolcheretsk, the time-keeper
+was left in the care of Mr Bayley, to compare it with his watch and clock,
+in order to get its rate. On my return, I was told it had gone for some
+days with tolerable regularity, losing only from fifteen to seventeen
+seconds a-day, when it stopped a second time. It was again opened, and the
+cause of its stopping appeared to be owing to the man having put some part
+of the work badly together when he first opened it. Being again adjusted,
+it was found to gain above a minute a-day; and, in the attempt to alter the
+regulator and balance-spring, he broke the latter. He afterward made a new
+spring; but the watch now went so irregularly, that we made no farther use
+of it. The poor fellow was not less chagrined than we were at our bad
+success; which, however, I am convinced, was more owing to the miserable
+tools he was obliged to work with, and the stiffness his hands had
+contracted from his ordinary occupation, than to his want of skill.
+
+<p>For the satisfaction of those who may wish to have a general view of its
+rate of going, I have added the following table.
+
+<p>The first and second columns contain the dates when, and the names of the
+places where its rate was observed. The third column contains the daily
+error of its rate, so found from mean time. The fourth column has the
+longitude of each place, according to the Greenwich rate; that is,
+calculated on a supposition that the time-keeper had not varied its rate
+from the time it left Greenwich. But as we had frequent opportunities of
+ascertaining the variation of its daily error, or finding its new rate, the
+fifth column has the longitude according to its last rate, calculated from
+the true longitude of the place last departed from. The sixth is the true
+longitude of the place deduced from astronomical observations made by
+ourselves, and compared with those made by others, whenever such could be
+obtained. The seventh column shews the difference between the fourth column
+and the sixth in space; and the eighth the same difference in time. The
+ninth shews the number of months and days in which the error, thus
+determined, had been accumulating. The difference between the fifth and
+sixth columns is found in the tenth, and shews the error of the time-
+keeper, according to its rate last found, in space; and the eleventh the
+same error in time. The twelfth contains the time elapsed in sailing from
+the place where the rate was last taken, to the place whose longitude is
+last determined. The thirteenth and fourteenth contain the state of the air
+at the time of each observation.
+
+<p>As persons, unaccustomed to calculations of this sort, may find some
+difficulty in comprehending the nature of the table, the two following
+instances will more clearly explain it.
+
+<p>Thus, on the 24th October, 1776, (first column,) at the Cape of Good Hope
+(second column,) we found the daily error, in the rate of its going, to be
+2",26 (third column.) The longitude of that place, calculated on a
+supposition that the rate of the time-keeper had continued the same from
+the time of our leaving Greenwich, that is, had a regular daily error of
+1",21, is found to be 18° 26' 30" east (fourth column.) And as its rate at
+Greenwich is, in this instance, its latest rate, the longitude thus found
+is the same (fifth column.) The true longitude of the place is 18° 23' 15"
+(sixth column.) From whence it appears, that in our run from Greenwich to
+the Cape, the watch would have led us into an error only of 3' 15" (seventh
+column,) or three miles one quarter; or had varied 13" of time (eighth
+column,) in four months twenty-three days (ninth column,) the period
+between our leaving Greenwich and our arrival at the Cape. As the Greenwich
+is the latest error, the tenth, eleventh, and twelfth columns, will be the
+same with the seventh and ninth.
+
+<p>But, on the 23d of February, 1777, (first column,) at Queen Charlotte's
+Sound, New Zealand, (second column,) the daily error of its rate was found
+to be 2",91, (third column.) The longitude of this place, according to the
+Greenwich rate, is 175° 25', (fourth column.) But having found at the Cape,
+that it had altered its rate from a daily error of 1",21, to 2",26, the
+longitude corrected by this new rate is found to be 174° 44' 23", (fifth
+column.) The true longitude of the place being 174° 23' 31", (sixth
+column;) it appears that, in our run from Greenwich to New Zealand, the
+error would have been only 1° 1' 29", (seventh column,) or sixty-one miles
+and a half, even if we had not had an opportunity of correcting its daily
+error; or, in other words, that the watch had varied 4' 5",3, (eighth
+column,) in nine months four days, (ninth column.) But the longitude, as
+given by its new rate, leaves an error of only 30' 54", (tenth column,)
+near thirty-one miles, or, in time, 2' 3",6, (eleventh column,) which has
+been accumulating during our run from the Cape to New Zealand, or in four
+months nine days, (twelfth column.) The thirteenth and fourteenth columns
+require no explanation.
+
+<pre>
+TABLE of the Rate and Error of Mr Kendall's Watch on Board the Resolution.
+
+
+   I.  |       II.     |  III.  |   IV.    |   V.    |    VI.   |
+-------|---------------|--------|-------------------------------|
+       |               |        |          |         |          |
+       |               |Error of|Longitude |Longitude|True      |
+ TIME. |      PLACE.   | Daily  |by Green- |   by    |Longitude.|
+       |               | Rate.  |wich Rate.|New Rate.|          |
+       |               |        |          |         |          |
+       |               |        |          |         |          |
+-------|---------------|--------|----------|---------|----------|
+       |               |   "    |  °  '  " |  ° '  " |  °  '  " |
+ 1776. |               |--------|----------|---------|----------|
+June 11|Greenwich      |-1,21   |  0  0 0E |  0  0 0E|  0  0 0E |
+Oct. 24|Cape of Good   |-2,26   | 18 26 30 | 18 26 30| 18 23 15 |
+       | Hope          |        |          |         |          |
+ 1777. |               |        |          |         |          |
+Feb. 22|Queen Char-    |        |          |         |          |
+       | lotte's Sound,|-2,91   |175 25  0 |174 54 25|174 23 31 |
+       | New Zealand   |        |          |         |          |
+May   7|Anamooka       |+0,52   |186 13 26 |186 13 15|185 11 18 |
+June  7|Anamooka       |-0,54   |186  8 28 |186 12 43|185 11 18 |
+July  1|Tongataboo     |-1,78   |185 48 50 |184 53  0|184 55 18 |
+Sept. 1|Otaheite       |-1,54   |211 41 26 |210 39  8|210 22 28 |
+Oct. 17|Huaheine       |-2,30   |210 14 52 |208 50 24|208 52 24 |
+Nov.  7|Ulietea        |-1,52   |209 42 54 |208 25 22|208 25 22 |
+ 1778. |               |        |          |         |          |
+Apr. 16|Nootka         |-7,0    |235 32 45 |233 56  0|233 17  8 |
+Oct. 14|Samganoodha    |-8,8    |197 44 15 |193 12 35|193 31 20 |
+ 1779. |               |        |          |         |          |
+Feb.  2|Owhyhee        |-9,6    |214  7 35 |203 37 22|204  0  0 |
+May   1|Saint Peter and|  T.K.  |          |         |          |
+       | Saint Paul,   | stopt. |173 86  0 |159 20  0|158 43 16 |
+       | Kamtschatka   |        |          |         |          |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------
+
+
+|   VII.  |  VIII.   | IX.  |   X.    |   XI.   | XII. |XIII.    |   XIV.|
+|-----------------------------------------------|------|---------|-------|
+|Accumulated Error by|      |Error by New Rate. |      |Thermo-  |  B    |
+|  Greenwich Rate.   |Length|                   |Length| meter.  |  a    |
+|--------------------|  of  |-------------------|  of  |---------|  r    |
+|         |          | Time.|         |         | Time.|         |  o    |
+|   In    |  In      |      |  In     |  In     |      |Gr. Least|  m    |
+|  Space. | Time.    |      | Space.  | Time.   |      | Height. |  e    |
+|---------|----------|------|---------|---------|------|---------|  t    |
+| °   '  "|H. '  "   |Mo Da |  °  '  "| H '  "  | Mo Da|    |    |  er.  |
+|---------|----------|------|---------|---------|------|----|----|-------|
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+|+ 0  3 15|0  0 13,0 | 4 23 |+ 0  3 15|0  0 13,0| 4  23|  84|  63|  30, 0|
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+|  1  1 29|0  4  5,9 | 9  4 |+ 0 30 54|0  2  3,6| 4   9|  73|  53|  30, 0|
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+|  1  2  8|0  4  8,5 |11 22 |+ 1  1 57|0  4  7,8| 2  18|  83|  74|  30, 1|
+|  0 57 10|0  3 48,6 |12 25 |+ 1  1 25|0  4  5,6| 1   3|  79|  73|  30,15|
+|  0 53 32|0  3 34,1 |13 21 |- 0  2 18|0  0  9,2| 0  24|  85|  69|  30,15|
+|  1 18 58|0  5 15,8 |15 27 |+ 0 16 40|0  1  6,6| 2   6|  90|  70|  30, 1|
+|  1 22 28|0  5 29,8 |17 17 |- 0  2  0|0  0  8,0| 1  18|  90|  72|  29, 9|
+|  1 17 32|0  5 10,1 |18 10 |  0  0  0|0  0  0,0| 0  21|  92|  70|  29, 7|
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+|  2 15 27|0  9  1,8 |24  2 |+ 0 28 42|0  2 34,8| 5  20|  65|  41|  30, 0|
+|  4 12 55|0 16 51,6 |30 15 |- 0 18 45|0  1 15,0| 6  13|  57|  36|  20,15|
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+| 10  7 35|0 40 30,3 |34 14 |- 0 22 38|0  1 30,5| 3  27|  88|  70|  29, 8|
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+| 14 52 44|0 59 30,9 |37 18 |- 0 36 44|0  2 16,9| 3   4|    |    |       |
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------
+</pre>
+
+<p>
+From this view of the time-keeper it appears, that for near two years it
+altered its rate very inconsiderably, and therefore that its error,
+according to the Greenwich rate, if we had had no opportunities of
+correcting it, amounted only to 2-1/4°. That afterward, at King George's
+Sound, or Nootka, it was found to have varied exceedingly; of course, the
+longitude, by its Greenwich rate, was becoming considerably erroneous.
+About this time, it should be remarked, the thermometer was varying from
+65° to 41°. The greatest alteration we ever observed in the watch was,
+during the three weeks we were cruising to the N.; in which interval, it
+gave the longitude of the East Cape with a difference of twenty-eight
+miles, I have marked the longitude of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, as given
+by the time-keeper, notwithstanding it stopped a few days before we arrived
+there; this I was enabled to do, from comparing the longitude it gave the
+day before it stopped, with that given by Mr Bayley's watch, and allowing
+for the error of the latter.
+
+<p>The use of so accurate a measure of time is sufficiently evident, from its
+furnishing in itself the means of approximating to the longitude at sea, as
+may be seen in the above table. But, besides this, we were enabled, by the
+same means, to give a degree of accuracy to the lunar observations, which
+they cannot otherwise pretend to; and, at the same time, by reducing a
+number of those observations to one time, obtain results approaching still
+nearer to the truth. In surveying coasts, and ascertaining the true
+position of capes and head-lands, it reaches the utmost degree of practical
+exactness. On the other hand, it is to be observed, that lunar
+observations, in their turn, are absolutely necessary, in order to reap the
+greatest possible advantages from the time-keeper; since, by ascertaining
+the true longitude of places, they discover the error of its rate. The
+original observations that were made in the course of this voyage, have
+been published by order of the Board of Longitude, and to those I must
+refer the reader, for his further information on this subject.
+
+<p>N.B. The observatories were placed on the west side of the village of Saint
+Peter and Saint Paul.
+
+<pre>
+Latitude deduced from meridian zenith
+  distances of the sun, and of five stars
+  to the S., and five to the N. of the
+  zenith                                     53°  0' 38" N.
+Longitude deduced from one hundred
+  and forty-six sets of lunar observations  158  43  16  E.
+Longitudy by time-keeper, according to
+  its Greenwich rate                        173  36   0
+Longitude by time-keeper, according to
+  its rate found at Owhyhee                 159  20   0
+Variation of the compass, by azimuths
+  taken with three compasses, made by
+  Knight, Gregory, and Martin                 6  18  40  E.
+Dip of the North Pole of the magnetic
+  needle, being a mean of the observations
+  taken in June and September                63   5   0
+</pre>
+
+<p>It was high water, on the full and change of the moon, at thirty-six
+minutes past four, and the greatest rise was five feet eight inches. The
+tides were very regular every twelve hours. On the coast, near the bay, the
+flood came from the S., and the time of high water was near two hours
+sooner than in the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul.
+
+<p>SECTION VI.
+
+<p>General Account of Kamtschatka.--Geographical Description.--Rivers.--
+Soil.--Climate.--Volcanoes.--Hot Springs.--Productions.--Vegetables.--
+Animals.--Birds.--Fish.[42]
+
+<blockquote>[42] Some doubt may be entertained of the propriety with which Captain King
+has occupied so large a portion of his volume as two chapters, or
+sections, with a subject, respecting which it is most certain, his
+knowledge must have resulted from almost any thing else than his own
+personal observation. There is force in the objection. But it must be
+allowed on the other hand, that there was no inconsiderable inducement
+to supply the public with a tolerable share of information concerning
+a country which, distant and uncultivated as it was, seemed
+notwithstanding to be entitled to more regard than had usually been
+paid to it. Steller's work, of which he has properly availed himself,
+had been but recently published, viz. in 1774, and in all probability
+had not hitherto occupied much attention. The earlier accounts,
+whether published separately as that of Krascheninnikof, an English
+translation of which appeared at Gloucester in 1764, or contained in
+other works, as an article in Pallas's New Memoirs of the North, were
+perhaps still less consulted. Captain King's description, therefore,
+supposing the subject in any degree entitled to notice, was neither
+unnecessary nor unprofitable. It has been generally employed as the
+basis of the subsequent accounts which have been inserted in
+gazetteers and treatises of geography. But there have been several
+works, entitled to the consideration of being original, published
+since its appearance, from which some additions might be obtained, or
+which point out reasons for correction,--not so much however, it is
+proper to remark, because of errors committed by Captain K., as
+because of alterations occurred in the country since his time. A few
+of these, unfortunately not much for the better, have been stated, or
+will be so, on the authority of one of the last visitors to
+Kamtschatka, Captain Krusenstern. This gentleman, however, it ought to
+be understood, admits the general accuracy of the previous accounts
+given by Krascheninnikof, Steller, and King, and therefore, avoiding
+repetition, restricts himself almost entirely to the mention of the
+most material changes which have taken place during the last thirty
+years. This will readily be allowed enough for our present purpose,
+exclusive of any attention to the other productions which have treated
+of Kamtschatka, in the intermediate period.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>Kamtschatka is the name of a peninsula situated on the eastern coast of
+Asia, running nearly N. and S., from 52° to 6l° N. latitude; the longitude
+of its southern extremity being 156° 45' E. The isthmus, which joins it to
+the continent on the N., lies between the Gulf of Olutorsk and the Gulf of
+Penshinsk. Its southern extremity is Cape Lopatka, a word signifying the
+blade bone of a man, and is so called from its supposed resemblance to it.
+The shape of the whole peninsula is not unlike that of a shoe, widening
+from the toe (which we may suppose to be Cape Lopatka) toward the middle,
+and narrowing again toward the heel, the neck of land above mentioned
+connecting it with the continent. Its greatest breadth is from the mouth of
+the river Tigil to that of Kamtschatka, and is computed to be two hundred
+and thirty-six miles, from whence it narrows very gradually toward each
+extremity.
+
+<p>It is bounded on the N. by the country of the Koriacks; to the S. and E.,
+by the North Pacific Ocean; and to the W., by the sea of Okotzk. A chain of
+high mountains stretches the whole length of the country, from N. to S.,
+dividing it nearly into two equal parts, from whence a great number of
+rivers take their rise, and empty themselves, on each side, into the
+Pacific Ocean and the sea of Okotzk.
+
+<p>There are three rivers of much greater magnitude than the rest; the
+Bolchoireka, or great river, so called from bolchoia, which signifies
+great, and reka, a river; the river Kamtschatka, and the Awatska. The first
+empties itself into the sea of Okotzk, and is navigable for the Russian
+galliots upwards of five leagues from its mouth, or within nine miles of
+Bolcheretsk, a town situated at the conflux of the Goltsoffka and the
+Bistraia, which here lose themselves in the Bolchoireka. The Bistraia
+itself is no inconsiderable river. It derives its source from the same
+mountain with the river Kamtschatka, and, by taking a direct contrary
+course, affords the Kamtschadales the means of transporting their goods by
+water in small canoes, almost across the whole peninsula. The river
+Kamtschatka, after maintaining a course of near three hundred miles from S.
+to N.. winds round to the eastward; in which direction it empties itself
+into the ocean, a little to the southward of Kamtschatkoi Noss. Near the
+mouth of the Kamtschatka to the N.W., lies the great lake called Nerpitsch,
+from nerpi, a Kamtschadale word, signifying a seal, with which this lake
+abounds. About twenty miles up the river, reckoning from the mouth of the
+lake, is a fort called Nishnei Kamtschatka ostrog, where the Russians have
+built an hospital and barracks; and which, we were informed, is become the
+principal mart in this country.
+
+<p>The river Awatska rises from the mountains situated between the Bolchoireka
+and the Bistraia, and running, from N.W. to S.E., a course of one hundred
+miles, falls into the bay of Awatska. The Tigil is likewise a river of
+considerable size, rising amidst some very high mountains, which lie under
+the same parallel with Kamtschatkoi Noss, and running in an even course
+from S.E. to N.W., falls into the sea at Okotzk. All the other rivers of
+this peninsula, which are almost infinite in number, are too small to
+deserve a particular enumeration.
+
+<p>If I may judge of the soil, from what I saw of its vegetable productions, I
+should not hesitate in pronouncing it barren in the extreme. Neither in the
+neighbourhood of the bay, nor in the country I traversed on my journey to
+Bolcheretsk, nor in any of our hunting expeditions, did I ever meet with
+the smallest spot of ground that resembled what in England is called a good
+green turf; or that seemed as if it could be turned to any advantage,
+either in the way of pasturage, or other mode of cultivation. The face of
+the country in general was thinly covered with stunted trees, having a
+bottom of moss, mixed, with low weak heath. The whole bore a more striking
+resemblance to Newfoundland, than to any other part of the world I had ever
+seen.
+
+<p>It must however be observed, that I saw at Paratounca three or four stacks
+of sweet and very fine-looking hay; and Major Behm informed me, that many
+parts of the peninsula, particularly the banks of the river Kamtschatka and
+the Bistraia, produce grass of great height and strength, which they cut
+twice in the summer; and that the hay is of a succulent quality, and
+particularly well adapted to the fattening of cattle. Indeed it should
+appear, from the size and fatness of the thirty-six head that were sent
+down to us from the Verchnei ostrog, and which, we were told, were bred and
+fattened in the neighbourhood, that they must have had the advantage of
+both good pastures and meadows. For it is worth our notice, that the first
+supply we received, consisting of twenty, came to us just at the close of
+the winter, and before the snow was off the ground, and therefore probably
+had tasted nothing but hay for the seven preceding months. And this agrees
+with what is related by Krascheninnikoff, that there is no part of the
+country equal in fertility to that which borders on the river Kamtschatka;
+and that to the N. and S. it is much inferior both in point of soil and
+climate. He relates, that repeated experiments have been made in the
+culture of oats, barley, and rye, in different quarters near this river,
+which have generally succeeded; that, in particular, some persons belonging
+to the convent of Jakutzk, who had settled in that part of the country, had
+sown barley there, which had yielded an extraordinary increase; and he has
+no doubt but that wheat, in many parts, particularly near the source of the
+Bistraia and Kamtschatka, would grow as well as in the generality of
+countries situated in the same latitude. Perhaps the superior fertility of
+the country here spoken of, may, in a great measure, be accounted for, from
+its lying in that part of the peninsula which is by much the widest, and
+consequently farthest removed from the sea, on each side. The moist
+chilling fogs and drizzling weather which prevail almost perpetually along
+the coast, must necessarily render the parts adjacent very unfit for all
+the purposes of agriculture.[43]
+
+<blockquote>[43] It is in the vicinity of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, Krusenstern
+allows, that the climate is so unfavourable, and the soil, in
+consequence, so ungrateful. But he specifies reasons for believing that
+the middle provinces of Kamtschatska are equal, if not superior, to
+many in European Russia, in respect of natural advantages, though
+certainly far less indebted to the hand of man. He tells us, however,
+that in the interior, several species of corn are brought to
+perfection and many kinds of vegetables are cultivated. In his opinion
+the climate is not so bad as it has generally been represented, and he
+is convinced that the indolence of the inhabitants, and the incapacity
+occasioned by the immoderate use of spirits, are far more in fault as
+to the deficiency or unproductiveness of the soil, than the frequent
+fogs which are so much complained of, or any other unkindness on the
+part of nature. In proof of this, he maintains that the officers who
+are garrisoned here, have laid out gardens for themselves, which, by
+proper care, yield almost every kind of vegetable necessary for the
+table, and that too in quantities beyond the usual demand. Besides the
+materially efficient checks already mentioned, this gentleman
+specifies a very unreasonable notion, pretty commonly entertained,
+which has operated extensively in limiting the productions of the
+earth, and from which not even the officers who had been successful in
+their particular pursuits were altogether exempt. The notion to which
+he alludes is, that it would be useless to commence cultivating their
+gardens before the month of July, although, to his certain knowledge,
+June was <i>as beautiful as it can possibly be in the most favoured
+climate</i>, and though, according to Captain King, wild garlic, cellery,
+and nettles, were gathered for his crew in the month of May. The
+inference from this last circumstance seems obviously correct. "If,"
+says Krusenstern, "in the middle of May so much is already produced
+without any cultivation at all, I think I do not assert too much in
+saying they ought to begin to lay out their gardens in this month."
+This conclusion appears still more importantly authoritative from what
+he relates on his own experience. "I passed all the summer months in
+Kamtschatka," says he, "during the two years of my absence; that is to
+say, the whole of June, a part of July, and the whole of August and
+September, and can affirm with confidence, that, in these four months,
+there are just as many pleasant cheerful days as in any other place
+under the same latitude." On the whole then, one may readily concur in
+sentiment with this intelligent officer, that did the government adopt
+very different measures from those which have hitherto been in force,
+and were certain practices and prejudices abolished, Kamtschatka might
+afford as good and cheap living as many other provinces of the Russian
+empire. To most readers, it is probable, this will seem no very mighty
+recommendation. Relatively, however, to the person who makes it, and
+to those to whom it is addressed, it must be allowed to possess a
+virtue of no common magnitude or efficacy. Perhaps it is necessary to
+state for the credit of this writer, that some of the immediately
+following remarks of Captain King, much as they seem at first sight to
+oppose one of his opinions above approved of, will be found on
+attentive consideration perfectly reconcileable with them, more
+particularly if it be remembered that in other countries where much
+snow falls during the winter, nothing is more usual than to find, on
+its disappearance, that the earth is covered with a rich and healthy
+vegetation which a thick coating of that substance, known to be a bad
+conductor of heat, had preserved from the rigors of the season.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>It is natural to suppose, that the severity of the climate must be in due
+proportion to the general sterility of the soil, of which it is probably
+the cause. The first time we saw this country was in the beginning of May,
+1779, when the whole face of it was covered with snow, from six to eight
+feet deep. On the 6th we had snow, with the wind from the N.E. On the 8th
+of May, at noon, the thermometer stood at 32°; and the same day some of our
+men were sent on shore to try to cut wood, but the snow was still so deep
+on the ground, as to render all their attempts fruitless. Nor was it found
+practicable to proceed in this necessary business, with all the efforts of
+a very stout party, till the 12th, at which time the thaw began to advance
+gradually. The sides of the hills were now in some places free from snow;
+and, by the beginning of June, it was generally melted from the low lands.
+On the 15th of June, the day we sailed out of the harbour, the thermometer
+had never risen higher than 58°, nor the barometer than 30° 04'. The winds
+blew almost invariably from the eastward during our stay, and the S.E. was
+more prevalent than any other.
+
+<p>On our return, the 24th of August, the foliage of the trees, and all other
+sorts of vegetation, seemed to be in the utmost state of perfection. For
+the remainder of this month, and through September, the weather was very
+changeable, but in no respect severe. The winds at the beginning of the
+month were for the most part easterly, after which they got round to the W.
+The greatest height of the thermometer was 65°, the lowest 40°. The
+barometer's greatest height 30°, its lowest 29,3. So that upon the whole,
+during this month, an equal and moderate degree of temperature prevailed.
+But at the beginning of October, the tops of the hills were again covered
+with new-fallen snow, the wind continuing westerly.
+
+<p>In computing the seasons, the spring ought certainly not to be taken into
+the account. From the middle of June to the middle of September, may be
+properly said to constitute the summer. October may be considered as an
+autumnal month; from thence, to the middle of June, it is perfect winter.
+It was toward the end of May that we made our journey between Bolcheretsk
+and Awatska, over the snow in sledges.
+
+<p>It is said, that the climate in the country adjoining to the river
+Kamtschatka, is not less serene and temperate, than in many parts of
+Siberia that are under the same latitude. This variation is probably owing
+to the same causes, to which the superior fertility of the soil in those
+parts has been before attributed. But it is not in the sterility of the
+ground alone, that the Kamtschadales feel the unfavourable temperature of
+their climate. The uncertainty of the summer season sometimes prevents
+their laying up a sufficient stock of dried fish for their winter's
+provision, and the moisture of the air causes worms to breed in them, which
+not unfrequently destroy the greatest part.
+
+<p>I do not remember that we had either thunder or lightning during our stay,
+excepting on the night of the eruption of the volcano; and, from the
+account of the inhabitants, they are very seldom troubled with storms of
+this kind, and never but in a slight degree. The general severity of the
+winter, as well as the dreadful hurricanes of wind and snow that season
+brings along with it, cannot be questioned, from the subterraneous
+habitations the natives are under a necessity of retiring to, for warmth
+and security. Major Behm told us, that the cold and inclemency of the
+winter of 1779 was such, that for several weeks all intercourse between the
+inhabitants was entirely stopped, every one being afraid to stir even from
+one house to another, for fear of being frost-bitten. This extraordinary
+rigour of climate, in so low a latitude, may be accounted for from its
+being situated to the east of an immense uncultivated tract of country, and
+from the prevalence of the westerly winds, blowing over so extensive and
+cold a continent. The extraordinary violence and impetuosity of the winds
+is attributed to the subterraneous fires, the sulphureous exhalations, and
+the general volcanic disposition of the country.
+
+<p>This peninsula abounds in volcanos, of which only three have, for some time
+past, been subject to eruptions. We have already mentioned that which is
+situated in the neighbourhood of Awatska. Besides this, there are others
+not less remarkable, according to the account given of them by
+Krascheninnikoff.
+
+<p>The volcano of Tolbatchick is situated on a neck of ground between the
+river of Kamtschatka and Tolbatchick. The mountain, from the summit of
+which, the eruptions proceed, is of a considerable height, and terminated
+in pointed rocks. In the beginning of the year 1739, there issued from it a
+whirlwind of flames, which reduced to ashes the forests of the neighbouring
+mountains. This was succeeded by a cloud of smoke, which spread over and
+darkened the whole country, till it was dissipated by a shower of cinders,
+that covered the ground to the distance of thirty miles. Mr
+Krascheninnikoff, who was at this time on a journey from Bolchoireka to the
+Kamtschatka ostrog, at no great distance from the mountain, relates that
+the eruption was preceded by an alarming sound in the woods, which he
+thought the forerunner of some dreadful storm or hurricane, till three
+shocks of an earthquake, at about a minute's interval of each, convinced
+him of its real cause; but that he was hindered from approaching nearer the
+mountain, by the cinders that fell, and prevented him from proceeding on
+his journey.
+
+<p>The third volcano is on the top of the mountain of Kamtschatka, which is
+mentioned as by far the highest in the peninsula. A thick smoke never
+ceases to ascend from its summit, and it has frequent eruptions, of the
+most violent and dreadful kind; some of which were much talked of, and
+seemed to be fresh in the memories of the Kamtschadales.
+
+<p>The country is likewise said to contain numerous springs of hot water. The
+only one that I had an opportunity of seeing was at Natcheekin ostrog, and
+hath been already described. Krascheninnikoff makes mention of several
+others, and also of two very extraordinary pits, or wells, at the bottom of
+which the water is seen to boil as in a cauldron, with prodigious force and
+impetuosity; at the same time a dreadful noise issues out of them, and so
+thick a vapour, that a man cannot see through it.
+
+<p>Of the trees which fell under our notice, the principal are the birch, the
+poplar, the alder, (with the bark of which they stain their leather,) many
+species of the willow, but all small; and two kinds of dwarfish pines or
+cedars.[44] One of these grows upon the coast, creeping along the ground,
+and seldom exceeds two feet in height. It was of this sort we made our
+essence for beer, and found it excellent for the purpose. The other grows
+on the mountains, to a greater height, and bears a small nut, or apple. We
+were told by the old <i>Toion</i> at Saint Peter and Saint Paul, that Beering,
+during the time he lay in that harbour, first taught them the use of the
+decoction of these pines, and that it proved a most excellent remedy for
+the scurvy; but, whether from the great scarcity of sugar, or from what
+other cause, we could not learn, we were sorry to find that it was no
+longer in use amongst them.
+
+<blockquote>[44] Krascheninnikoff says, that the tree here spoken of is a dwarf cedar,
+for that there is not a pine in the peninsula.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The birch was by far the most common tree we saw; and of this we remarked
+three sorts. Two of them fit for timber, and differing only in the texture
+and colour of the bark; the third of a dwarfish kind. This tree is applied
+to a great variety of uses by the inhabitants. The liquor which, on
+tapping, it yields in great abundance, they drink without mixture, or any
+preparation, as we had frequent opportunities of observing upon our journey
+to Bolcheretsk; and found it ourselves pleasant and refreshing, but
+somewhat purgative. The bark they convert into vessels, for almost all
+their domestic and kitchen purposes; and it is of the wood of this tree the
+sledges and canoes are also made.[45]
+
+<blockquote>[45] Krascheninnikoff says, that the natives likewise convert the bark into
+a pleasant wholesome food, by stripping it off whilst it is young and
+green, and cutting it into long narrow stripes, like <i>vermicelli</i>,
+drying it, and stewing it afterward along with their <i>caviar</i>.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The birch, and every other kind of tree in the neighbourhood of the bay,
+were small and stunted; and they are obliged to go many miles up into the
+country, for wood of a proper size to work into canoes, for the principal
+timbers of their <i>balagans</i>, and the like uses.
+
+<p>Besides the trees above-mentioned, Krascheninnikoff relates, that the larch
+grows on the banks of the river Kamtschatka, and of those that fall into
+it, but no where else; and that there are firs in the neighbourhood of the
+river Berezowa; that there is likewise the service-tree (<i>padus foliis
+annuis</i>;) and two species of the white thorn, one bearing a red, the other
+a black berry.
+
+<p>Of the shrub kind, as junipers, the mountain-ash, wild rose-trees, and
+raspberry bushes, the country produces great abundance; together with a
+variety of berries; blue berries of two sorts, round and oval; partridge-
+berries, cranberries, crow-berries, and black-berries. These the natives
+gather at proper seasons, and preserve, by boiling them into a thick jam,
+without sugar. They make no inconsiderable part of their winter provisions,
+and are used as sauce to their dried and salt fish; of which kind of food
+they are unquestionably excellent correctives. They likewise eat them by
+themselves in puddings and various other ways, and make decoctions of them
+for their ordinary liquor.
+
+<p>We met with several wholesome vegetables in a wild state, and in great
+quantities; such as wild celery, angelica, chervil, garlic, and onions.
+Upon some few patches of ground in the vallies, we found excellent turnips
+and turnip-radishes. Their garden cultivation went no farther; yet from
+hence I am led to conclude, that many of the hardy sorts of vegetables,
+(such at least as push their roots downward,) like as carrots; parsnips,
+and beet, and perhaps potatoes, would thrive tolerably well. Major Behm
+told me, that some other sorts of kitchen vegetables had been tried, but
+did not answer; that neither any of the cabbage or lettuce kind would ever
+head; and that peas and beans shot up very vigorous stalks, flowered and
+podded, but the pods never filled. He likewise told me, that in the
+experiments made by himself at Bolcheretsk, with different sorts of
+farinaceous grain, there generally came up a very high and strong blade,
+which eared, but that the ears never yielded flour.
+
+<p>This short account of the vegetable production reaches to such parts of the
+country only as fell within our notice, In the neighbourhood of the
+Kamtschatka river, where (as has been observed) both the soil and climate
+are by much the best in the whole peninsula, garden culture is attended to,
+and probably with great success, as appears from our having received, at
+the same time with the second drove of cattle from Verchnei, a present of
+cucumbers, of very large fine turnips, celery, and some other garden-stuff,
+of which I do not recollect the kinds.
+
+<p>There are two plants, which, from the great use made of them, merit a
+particular mention and description. The first is called by the natives
+<i>sarana</i>, and by botanists, <i>Lilium Kamtskatiense flore atro rubente</i>.[46]
+The stem is about the thickness of that of the tulip, and grows to the
+height of five inches, is of a purple colour toward the bottom, and green
+higher up, and hath growing from it two tier of leaves of an oval figure,
+the lowest consisting of three leaves, the uppermost of four, in the form
+of a cross; from the top of the stalk grows a single flower, of an
+exceedingly dark red colour, in shape resembling the flower, of the
+narcissus, only much smaller; from the centre of the flower rises a style
+of a triangular form, and obtuse at the end, which is surrounded by six
+white stamina, whose extremities are yellow. The root is of the bulbous
+kind, and resembles in shape that of garlic, being much of the same size,
+but rounder, and having, like that, four or five cloves hanging together.
+The plant grows wild, and in considerable abundance; the women are employed
+in collecting the roots at the beginning of August, which are afterward
+dried in the sun, and then laid up for use. On our second arrival, this
+harvest was just over, and had fallen much short of its usual produce. It
+is a common observation amongst the Kamtschadales, that the bounty of
+Providence never fails them, for that such seasons as are most hurtful to
+the <i>sarana</i>, are always the most favourable for fishing; and that, on the
+contrary, a bad fishing month is always made up by the exuberance of the
+<i>sarana</i> harvest. It is used in cookery in various ways. When roasted in
+embers, it supplies the place of bread better than any thing the country
+affords. After being baked in an oven and pounded, it becomes an excellent
+substitute for flour and meal of every sort; and in this form is mixed in
+all their soups, and most of their other dishes. It is esteemed extremely
+nourishing, has a pleasant bitter taste, and may be eaten every day without
+cloying. We used to boil these roots, and eat them as potatoes, either
+alone, or with our meat, and found them very wholesome and pleasant. It has
+been already mentioned, that this useful plant grows also at Oonalashka,
+where the roots of it are used, and constitute a considerable part of their
+food, in like manner as in Kamtschatka.
+
+<blockquote>[46] Gmelin, p. 41. Steller enumerates five different species of this
+plant.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The other plant alluded to is called the sweet grass; the botanical
+description is <i>Heracleum Sibericum foliis pinnatis, foliolis quinis,
+intermediis sessilibus, corollulis uniformibus</i>. Hort. Upsal. 65. The time,
+I took particular notice of it, was in May, when it was about a foot and a
+half high, had much the appearance of sedge, and was covered with a white
+down, or dust, which looked exceedingly like the hoar frost hanging upon
+it, and might be rubbed off; it tasted as sweet as sugar; but was hot and
+pungent. The stalk is hollow, and consists of three or four joints; from
+each of which arise large leaves, and when at its full growth, is six feet
+high.
+
+<p>This plant was formerly a principal ingredient in the cookery of most of
+the Kamtschadale dishes; but since the Russians got possession of the
+country, it has been almost entirely appropriated to the purpose of
+distillation. The manner in which it is gathered, prepared, and afterward
+distilled, is as follows:--Having cut such stalks as have leaves growing on
+them, of a proper age, (the principal stem, by the time the plant has
+attained its full growth, having become too dry for their purpose,) and
+scraped off with shells the downy substance on their surface, they are laid
+in small heaps, till they begin to sweat and smell. On growing dry again,
+they put them into sacks, made of matting; where, after remaining a few
+days, they are gradually covered with a sweet saccharine powder, which
+exudes from the hollow of the stalk. From thirty-six pounds of the plant in
+this state, they obtain no more than a quarter of a pound of powder. The
+women, whose province it is to collect and prepare the materials, are
+obliged to defend their hands with gloves whilst they are scraping the
+stalks; the rind they remove, being of so acrid a quality as to blister,
+and even ulcerate, whatever it touches.
+
+<p>The spirit is drawn from the plant in this state by the following
+process:--After steeping bundles of it in hot water, they promote its
+fermentation in a small vessel, by the help of berries of the
+<i>gimolost</i>,[47] or of the <i>golubitsa</i>,[48] being careful to close up well
+the mouth of the vessel, and to keep it in a warm place whilst the
+fermentation is going on, which is generally so violent as to occasion a
+considerable noise, and to agitate the vessel in which it is contained.
+After drawing off this first liquor, they pour on more hot water, and make
+a second in the same manner. They then pour both liquor and herbs into a
+copper still, and draw off the spirit after the usual method. The liquor
+thus obtained is of the strength of brandy; and is called by the natives
+<i>raka</i>. Two pood (seventy-two pounds) of the plant yield generally one
+vedro (twenty-five pints) of <i>raka</i>.
+
+<blockquote>[47] Lonicera pedunclis bifloris, floribus infundibili formis, bacciâ
+solitariâ, oblongâ, angulosâ. Gmel. Flor. Sib.</blockquote>
+
+<blockquote>[48] Myrtillus grandis cæruleus.</blockquote>
+
+<p>Steller says, that the spirit distilled from this plant, unscraped, is
+exceedingly prejudicial to the health, and produces the most sudden and
+terrible nervous effects.
+
+<p>Besides these, Krascheninnikoff mentions a variety of other plants, from
+whence the inhabitants prepare several decoctions; and which, being mixed
+with their fish, make palatable and wholesome ragouts. Such as the
+<i>kipri</i>,[49] with which is brewed a pleasant common beverage; and, by
+boiling this plant and the sweet herb together, in the proportion of one to
+five of the latter, and fermenting the liquor in the ordinary way, is
+obtained a strong and excellent vinegar. The leaves of it are used instead
+of tea, and the pith is dried and mixed in many of their dishes; the
+<i>morkovai</i>,[50] which is very like angelica; the <i>kotkorica</i>,[51] the root
+of which they eat indifferently, green or dried; the <i>ikoum</i>,[52] the
+<i>utchichlei</i>,[53] which is much eaten with fish; with many others.
+
+<blockquote>[49] Epilobium.</blockquote>
+
+<blockquote>[50] Chærephyllum seminibus levibus.</blockquote>
+
+<blockquote>[51] Tradescantia fructu molli edulo.</blockquote>
+
+<blockquote>[52] Bistorta foliis ovatis, oblongis, acuminatis.</blockquote>
+
+<blockquote>[53] Jacobea foliis cannabis. Steller.</blockquote>
+
+<p>It is said, that the Kamtschadales (before their acquaintance with fire-
+arms) poisoned their spears and arrows with the juice of the root of the
+<i>zgate</i>;[54] and that wounds inflicted by them are equally destructive to
+land and marine animals. The Tschutski are reported to use the same drug
+for this purpose at present.
+
+<blockquote>[54] Anemonoides et ranunculus.</blockquote>
+
+<p>I shall conclude this part of the natural history of Kamtschatka with an
+account, from the same author, of three plants, which furnish the materials
+of all their manufactures. The first is the <i>triticum radice perenni
+spiculis binis lanuginosis</i>,[55] which grows in abundance along the coast.
+Of the straw of this grass they make a strong sort of matting, which they
+use not only for their floors, but for sacks, bedclothes, curtains, and a
+variety of other domestic purposes. Of the same materials they also make
+very neat little bags and baskets, of different forms, and for various
+uses.
+
+<blockquote>[55] Gmel. Sib. Tom. i. p. 119. Tab. XXV.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The plant called <i>bolotnaia</i>, which grows in the marshes, and resembles
+<i>cyperoides</i>, is gathered in the autumn, and carded like wool, with a comb
+made of the bones of the sea-swallow; with this, in lieu of linen and
+woollen clothes, they swathe their new-born infants, and use it for a
+covering next the skin whilst they are young. It is also made into a kind
+of wadding, and used for the purpose of giving additional warmth to various
+parts of their clothing.
+
+<p>There remains still a vulgar and well-known plant, which, as it contributes
+more effectually to their subsistence, than all the rest put together, must
+not be passed over in silence. This is the nettle, which, as the country
+produces neither, hemp nor flax, supplies the materials of which are made
+their fishing-nets, and without which they could not possibly subsist. For
+this purpose they cut it down in August; and, after hanging it up in
+bundles in the shade, under their <i>balagans</i>, the remainder of the summer,
+treat it like hemp. They then spin it into thread with their fingers, and
+twist it round a spindle; after which they twine several threads together,
+according to the different purposes for which It may be designed.
+
+<p>Though there is little doubt but that many parts of this peninsula would
+admit of such cultivation as might contribute considerably to the comfort
+of the inhabitants, yet its real riches must always consist in the number
+of wild animals it produces; and no labour, can ever be turned to so good
+account as what is employed upon their furrieries. The animals therefore
+which supply these come next to be considered; and these are, the common
+fox, the stoat, or ermine, the zibeline, or sable, the isatis, or arctic
+fox, the varying hare, the mountain rat, or earless marmot, the weasel, the
+glutton, or wolverene, the argali, or wild sheep, rein-deer, bears, wolves,
+dogs.
+
+<p>The fox[56] is the most general object of the chase; and they are found in
+great numbers, and of variety of colours. The most common is the same in
+species with the European, with this variation, that the colours are more
+bright and shining; some are of a dark chesnut, others are striped with
+dark-coloured bars, others have the belly black, and the rest of the body
+of a light chesnut. Some again are of a very dark brown, some black, others
+of a stone colour; and there are a few quite white, but these last are very
+scarce. Their fur is exceedingly thick and fine, and of a quality much
+superior to those either of Siberia or America. A variety of artifices are
+made use of by the hunters to catch this animal, which in all climates seem
+to preserve the same character of craftiness and cunning. Traps of
+different sorts, some calculated to fall upon them, others to catch them by
+the feet, others by the head, are amongst the most common; to which may be
+added, several ingenious contrivances for taking them in nets. Poisoned
+baits are likewise in use; and the <i>nux vomica</i> is the drug principally
+employed for this purpose. Before their knowledge of the Russians, by which
+they became acquainted with fire-arms, they also carried bows and arrows to
+the chase. But since that period, almost every Kamtschadale is provided
+with a rifle-barrel gun; and, though far from being dexterous in the use of
+it, its superiority over the former instruments he is ready to acknowledge.
+
+<blockquote>[56] Canis vulpes.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The sables[57] of Kamtschatka are said to be considerably larger than those
+of Siberia, and their fur much thicker and brighter, though not of so good
+a black as those in the neighbourhood of the Olekma and the Vitime,[58] a
+circumstance which depreciates their value much more than their superiority
+in other respects enhances it. The sables of the Tigil and Ouka are counted
+the best in Kamtschatka; and a pair of these sometimes sell for thirty
+roubles (five pounds sterling). The worst are those of the southern
+extremity. The apparatus of the sable hunters consist of a rifle-barrel gun
+of an exceedingly small bore, a net, and a few bricks; with the first they
+shoot them when they see them on the trees; the net is to surround the
+hollow trees, in which, when pursued, they take refuge; and the bricks are
+heated, and put into the cavities, in order to smoke them out.
+
+<blockquote>[57] Mustela zibellina.</blockquote>
+
+<blockquote>[58] Rivers emptying themselves into the Lena, near its source.</blockquote>
+
+<p>I must refer the reader for an account of the isatis,[59] or arctic fox, to
+Mr Pennant's Arctic Zoology, as I never saw either the animal or the skin,
+which I understand they set no value upon. The varying hare[60] is also
+neglected on the same account. They are in great abundance; and, as is
+always the case with this species, turn quite white during the winter. Our
+shooting parties saw several of this colour the beginning of May, but found
+them so shy, that they were not able to get within gun-shot.
+
+<blockquote>[59] Canis lagopus.</blockquote>
+
+<blockquote>[60] Lepus timidus.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The mountain-rat, or earless marmot,[61] is a beautiful little animal,
+considerably smaller than a squirrel, and, like it, feeds upon roots,
+berries, the cedar-apple, &amp;c. which it eats sitting upon its hind-legs, and
+holding them up to its mouth with the paws. Its skin is much valued by the
+Kamtschadales, is both warm and light, and of a bright shining colour,
+forming, like the plumage of some birds, various colours when viewed in
+different lights.
+
+<blockquote>[61] Mus citellus.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The stoat, or ermine,[62] is here held in no estimation, and consequently
+never engages the attention of the hunters; because, as I have heard, its
+fur is of an ordinary kind. I saw many of these little animals running
+about; and we bought several of their skins, which were of a bad white, and
+of a dirty yellow toward the belly. The common weasel[63] is also
+neglected, and for the same reason.
+
+<blockquote>[62] Mustela erminea.</blockquote>
+
+<blockquote>[63] Mustela nivalis.</blockquote>
+
+<p>On the contrary, the skin of the glutton, or wolverene,[64] is here in the
+highest repute; insomuch, that a Kamtschadale looks upon himself as most
+richly attired, when a small quantity of this fur is seen upon him. The
+women adorn their hair with its pats, which are white, and considered as an
+extraordinary piece of finery; and they have a superstitious opinion, that
+the angels are clad with the skins of those animals. It is said, that this
+creature is easily tamed, and taught a number of pleasant tricks.[65]
+
+<blockquote>[64] Ursus luseus.</blockquote>
+
+<blockquote>[65] Krascheninnikoff relates, that this small animal frequently destroys
+deer, and the wild mountain sheep, in the following way: They scatter
+at the bottom of trees bark and moss, which those animals are fond of;
+and whilst they are picking it up, drop suddenly upon them, and,
+fastening behind the head, suck out their eyes.</blockquote>
+
+<p>Having already had occasion to speak, as fully as my own knowledge enables
+me, of the bears, and the method of killing them, I shall only here
+observe, that all those I saw were of a dun brown colour; that they are
+generally seen in companies of four or five together; that the time they
+are most abroad is during the season that the fish (which is their
+principal food) are pushing up from the sea into the rivers, and that they
+are seldom visible in the winter months.[66]
+
+<blockquote>[66] The Koriacks make use of a very simple method of catching bears. They
+suspend, between the forks of a tree, a running noose; within which
+they fasten a bait, which the animal, endeavouring to pull away, is
+caught sometimes by the neck, and sometimes by the paw.</blockquote>
+
+<p>Their skins are exceedingly useful. They make both excellent warm matresses
+and coverings for their beds; comfortable bonnets and gloves, and good
+collars for the dogs' harness. Their flesh, and particularly the fat, are
+considered as great delicacies.
+
+<p>The wolves are only seen in the winter; at which season they prowl about,
+as I was told, in large companies, in search of prey.
+
+<p>There are rein-deer, both wild and tame, in several parts of the peninsula;
+but none in the neighbourhood of Awatska. It is somewhat singular, that
+this nation should never have used the rein-deer for the purposes of
+carriage, in the same manner as their neighbours, both to the north and the
+eastward. Their dogs, indeed, seem fully sufficient for all the demands of
+the natives in their present state; and the breed of Russian horses will
+probably increase with the future necessities of the country. But when it
+is recollected, that the use of dogs, in a great measure, precludes them
+from the advantage of bringing up any other domestic animals, it will
+appear the more extraordinary, that they should not have adopted the
+services of an animal so much more gentle as well as powerful.
+
+<p>The argali, or wild mountain-sheep,[67] an animal, I believe, unknown in
+Europe, (except in Corsica and Sardinia,) is here in great plenty. Its skin
+is like the deer's, but in gait and general appearance, it partakes more of
+the goat. It has two large twisted horns, sometimes weighing, when at full
+growth, from twenty-five to thirty pounds, which in, running it rests upon
+its back. These creatures are exceedingly, nimble and swift, haunt only the
+most craggy and mountainous parts, and make their way among the steepest
+rocks with an agility that is astonishing. The natives work their horns
+into spoons, and small cups and platters; and have frequently one of a
+smaller size hanging to a belt, which serves them to drink out of in their
+hunting expeditions. This animal is gregarious. I frequently tasted the
+flesh of them, and thought it had a very sweet and delicate flavour; but
+never had an opportunity of seeing one alive. I must, therefore, refer the
+reader for a particular description of this beautiful animal, (for such it
+is said to be,) to the Memoirs of the Academy of Petersburg, tom. iv. tab.
+xiii.
+
+<blockquote>[67] Capra ammon, or wild sheep. Arct, Zool. i. p. 12.</blockquote>
+
+<p>I have already observed, that the dogs of this country are, in shape and
+mien, exceedingly like the Pomeranian, with this difference, that they are
+a great deal larger, and the hair somewhat coarser. They are of a variety
+of colours; but the most general is a light dun, or dirty cream-colour.
+Toward the end of May they are all turned loose, and left to provide for
+themselves through the summer, being sure to return to their respective
+homes when the snow begins to fall. Their food, in the winter, consists
+entirely of the head, entrails, and back-bones of salmon; which are put
+aside, and dried for that purpose; and with this diet they are fed but
+sparingly. The number of dogs must needs be very great, since five are
+yoked to a sledge, and a sledge carries but one person; so that on our
+journey to Bolcheretsk, we required no fewer than an hundred and thirty-
+nine, at the two stages of Karatchin and Natcheekin. It is also to be
+remarked, that they never make use of bitches for the draft, nor dogs, but
+those that are cut. The whelps are trained to this business, by being tied
+to stakes with light leathern thongs, which, are made to stretch, and
+having their victuals placed at a proper distance out of their reach; so
+that by constantly pulling and labouring, in order to come at their food,
+they acquire both the strength of limbs, and the habit of drawing, that are
+necessary for their future destination.
+
+<p>The coasts and bays of this country are frequented by almost every kind of
+northern sea-fowl; and amongst the rest are the sea-eagles, but not, as at
+Oonalashka, in great numbers. The rivers inland (if I may judge from what I
+saw in our journey to Bolcheretsk) are stored with numerous flocks of wild-
+ducks of various species; one kind of which, in particular, has a most
+beautiful plumage, and is called by the natives <i>a-an-gitche</i>; a word
+intended to express its cry, which is not less singular than agreeable,
+consisting of three distinct notes, rising, at equal intervals, above each
+other.[68]
+
+<blockquote>[68] Mr Steller has made the following scale of its cry:
+
+<p>[Illustration:<br>
+ F-A-C |F-A-C<br>
+ a-an-gitche a-an-gitche.</p
+
+<p>For a further account of this bird, I must refer the reader to
+Krascheninnikoff, vol. ii. part 4.</blockquote>
+
+<p> There is another species, called the mountain-duck,[69] which, Steller
+says, is peculiar to Kamtschatka. The drake is covered with plumage of
+extraordinary beauty. Besides these, we observed a variety of other water-
+fowl, which, from their size, seemed to be of the wild-goose kind.
+
+<blockquote>[69] Anas picta, capita pulchrè fasciato. Steller.</blockquote>
+
+<p>In the woods through which we passed, were seen several eagles of a
+prodigious size; but of what species they were I cannot pretend to
+determine. These are said to be of three different sorts; the black eagle,
+with a white head, tail, and leg;[70] of which the eaglets are as white as
+snow; the white eagle, so called, though in fact it is of a light grey; and
+the lead, or stone-coloured eagle,[71] which is the most common; and
+probably those I saw were of this sort. Of the hawk, falcon, and bustard
+kind, there are great numbers.
+
+<blockquote>[70] Falco leucocephalus.</blockquote>
+
+<blockquote>[71] Vultur albiulla.</blockquote>
+
+<p>This country likewise affords woodcocks, snipes, and two sorts of grouse,
+or moor-game. Swans are also said to be in great plenty; and in their
+entertainments, generally to make a part of the repast, though I do not
+remember to have seen one on any occasion. The vast abundance of wild-fowl
+with which the country is stored, was manifest from the numerous presents
+we received from the <i>Toion</i> of Saint Peter and Saint Paul; and which
+sometimes consisted of twenty brace.
+
+<p>We met with no amphibious sea-animals on the coast, except seals, with
+which the bay of Awatska swarmed; as they were at this time in pursuit of
+the salmon that were collecting in shoals, and ready to ascend the rivers.
+Some of them are said to pursue the fish into the fresh water, and to be
+found in most of the lakes which communicate with the sea.
+
+<p>The sea-otters[72] are exactly the same with those we met with at Nootka
+Sound, which have been already fully described, and where they are in great
+plenty. They are also said to have been formerly in equal abundance here;
+but, since the Russians have opened a trade for their skins to China, where
+they are sold at a price much beyond that of any other kind of fur, they
+have been hunted almost entirely out of the country. Amongst the Kurile
+Islands they are still caught, though in no great numbers; but are of a
+superior quality to those of Kamtschatka, or the American coast.
+
+<blockquote>[72] Mustela lutris.</blockquote>
+
+<p>We are informed, that on Mednoi and Beering's Island, scarce a sea-otter is
+now to be found; though it appears from Muller,[73] that in his time they
+were exceedingly plentiful.
+
+<blockquote>[73] English translation, p. 59.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The Russian voyagers make mention of a great variety of amphibious sea-
+animals, which are said to frequent these coasts; the reason why we saw no
+other kinds might be, that this was the season of their migration.
+
+<p>Not having it in my power to treat these articles more fully, I conclude
+them with the less regret, since the ingenious Mr Pennant has a work,
+almost ready for publication, entitled, "Arctic Zoology;" in which the
+learned will receive full information concerning the animals of this
+peninsula. This gentleman has very obligingly communicated to me his
+Catalogue of Arctic Animals, with reference to his work, and permission to
+insert it. It will be found at the end of this section; and I feel myself
+extremely happy in laying it before the reader, and thereby presenting him
+with, what could have been furnished from no other quarter, one entire view
+of Kamtschadale zoology.[74]
+
+<blockquote>[74] Few readers, it is probable, will require the information, that the
+work of Mr Pennant, here alluded to, was published not very long after
+the appearance of this voyage, viz. in 1784. In consequence of this
+circumstance, it might be thought unnecessary to insert the table or
+catalogue of animals now spoken of. But, on the whole, there appeared
+more propriety in risking the offence of repetition with those who
+possess Mr P.'s work, than in disappointing those who do not.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>Fish may be considered as the staple article of food with which Providence
+hath supplied the inhabitants of this peninsula; who, in general, must
+never expect to draw any considerable part of their sustenance either from
+grain or cattle. It is true, the soil, as has been remarked, affords some
+good and nourishing roots, and every part of the country abounds in
+berries; but though these alone would be insufficient for the support of
+the people, yet, at the same time, they are necessary correctives of the
+putrescent quality of their dried fish. In short, fish may, with much
+greater justice, be here called the staff of life, than bread is in other
+countries; since it appears, that neither the inhabitants, nor the only
+domestic animal they have, the dog, could exist without it.
+
+<p>Whales are frequently seen, both in the sea of Okotzk, and on the side of
+the eastern ocean, and, when caught, are turned to a variety of uses. Of
+the skin they make the soles of their shoes, and straps and thongs for
+various other purposes. The flesh they eat, and the fat is carefully
+stored, both for kitchen use, and for their lamps. The whiskers are found
+to be the best materials for sewing together the seams of their canoes;
+they likewise make nets of them for the larger kind of fish; and with the
+under-jaw-bones their sledges are shod. They likewise work the bones into
+knives; and formerly the chains with which their dogs are tied, were made
+of that material, though at present iron ones are generally used. The
+intestines they clean, then blow and dry like bladders and it is in these
+their oil and grease is stored; and of the nerves and veins, which are both
+strong and slip readily, they make excellent snares; so that there is no
+part of the whale which here does not find its use.
+
+<p>From the middle of May, till our departure on the 24th of June, we caught
+great quantities of excellent flat-fish, trout, and herrings. Upward of
+three hundred of the former, besides a number of sea-trout, were dragged
+out at one haul of the seine, the 15th of May. These flat-fish are firm,
+and of a good flavour, studded upon the back with round prickly knobs, like
+turbot, and streaked with dark-brown lines, running from the head toward
+the tail. About the end of May the first herring season begins. They
+approach in great shoals, but do not remain long on the coast. They had
+entirely left the bay before we sailed out of it the first time, but were
+beginning to revisit it again in October. It has been already mentioned,
+that the herrings were remarkably fine and large, and that we filled a
+great part of our empty casks with them. The beginning of June large
+quantities of excellent cod were taken; a part of which were likewise
+salted. We caught too, at different times, numbers of small fish, much
+resembling a smelt, and once drew out a wolf-fish.
+
+<p>Notwithstanding this abundance of flat-fish, cod, and herring, it is on the
+salmon-fishery alone that the Kamtschadales depend for their winter
+provisions. Of these, it is said by naturalists, there are to be found on
+this coast all the different species that are known to exist, and which the
+natives formerly characterized by the different months in which they ascend
+the rivers. They say, too, that though the shoals of different sorts are
+seen to mount the rivers at the same time, yet they never mix with each
+other; that they always return to the same river in which they were bred,
+but not till the third summer; that neither the male nor female live to
+regain the sea; that certain species frequent certain rivers, and are never
+found in others, though they empty themselves nearly at the same place.
+
+<p>The first shoals of salmon begin to enter the mouth of the Awatska about
+the middle of May; and this kind, which is called by the Kamtschadales
+<i>Tchavitsi</i>, is the largest and most valued. Their length is generally
+about three feet and a half; they are very deep in proportion, and their
+average weight is from thirty to forty pounds. The tail is not forked, but
+straight. The back is of a dark blue, spotted with black; in other respects
+they are much like our common salmon. They ascend the river with
+extraordinary velocity, insomuch that the water is sensibly agitated by
+their motion; and the Kamtschadales, who are always on the watch for them
+about the time they are expected, judge of their approach by this
+circumstance, and immediately let drop their nets before them. We were
+presented with one of the first that was caught, and given to understand
+that it was the greatest compliment that could be paid us. Krascheninnikoff
+relates, that formerly the Kamtschadales made a point of eating the first
+fish they took with great rejoicings, and a variety of superstitious
+ceremonies; and that, after the Russians became their masters, it was for a
+long time a constant subject of quarrel between them, to whom the first
+should belong. The season for fishing for this species lasts from the
+middle of May till the end of June.
+
+<p>The other sort is of a smaller kind, weighing only from eight to sixteen
+pounds. They are known by the general name of the red fish, and begin to
+collect in the bays and at the mouths of the rivers the beginning of June;
+from, which time till the end of September, they are caught in great
+quantities, both upon the eastern and western coast, where any fresh water
+falls into the sea, and likewise all along the course of the rivers to
+their very source. The manner in which they draw their nets within the bay
+of Awatska is as follows: They tie one end of the net to a large stone at
+the water's edge; they then push off in a canoe about twenty yards in a
+right line, dropping their net as they advance, after which they turn and
+run out the remainder of the net in a line parallel to the shore. In this
+position they wait, concealing themselves very carefully in the boat, and
+keeping a sharp look-out for the fish, which always direct their course
+close in with the shore, and whose approach is announced by a rippling in
+the water, till they find that the shoal has advanced beyond the boat, when
+they shoot the canoe to shore in a direct line, and never fail of inclosing
+their prey. Seldom more than two men are employed to a net, who haul with
+facility, in this manner, seines larger than ours, to which we appoint a
+dozen. We at first met with very poor success in our own method of hauling,
+but after the Kamtschadales had very kindly put us in the way, we were not
+less successful than themselves. In the rivers, they shoot one net across,
+and haul another down the stream to it.
+
+<p>The lakes that have a communication with the sea, which was the case of all
+those that I saw, abound with fish that have very much the resemblance of
+small salmon, and are from four to six pounds weight. I could not
+understand that the inhabitants thought it worth their while to fish for
+them. As these lakes are not deep, they become an easy prey to the bears
+and dogs during the summer; and, if I might judge from the quantity of
+bones to be seen upon, the banks, they devour vast numbers of them.
+
+<p>The inhabitants, for the most part, dry their salmon, and salt very little
+of it. Each fish is cut into three pieces, the belly-piece being first
+taken off, and afterward a slice along each side the back-bone. The former
+of these are dried and smoked, and esteemed the finest part of the fish,
+and sold, when we were at Saint Peter and Saint Paul's, at the rate of one
+hundred for a rouble. The latter are dried in the air, and either eaten
+whole as bread, or reduced to powder, of which they make paste and cakes,
+that are not unpleasant to the taste. The head, tail, and bones are hung
+up, and dried for winter provision for the dogs.
+
+<p><i>List of Animals found in Kamtschadale, communicated by Mr Pennant</i>.[75]
+
+<blockquote>[75] The quadrupeds and birds mentioned in this part of the voyage are
+marked in this list with an asterisk.</blockquote>
+
+<pre>
+*Argali, wild sheep, Arct.         <i>Capra ammon</i>, Lin. Syst. 97
+    Zool. vol. i. p. 12.
+ Ibex, <i>or</i> wild goat          16  <i>Capra ibex</i>.             90
+*Rein                          22  <i>Cervus tarandus</i>.        93
+*Wolf                          38  <i>Canis lupus</i>.            53
+*Dog                           40
+*Arctic fox                    42   <i>Canis lagopus</i>.         59
+*European fox                  45   <i>Canis vulpes</i>.          59
+*  a. black                    46
+   b. cross                    ib.
+*Polar bear, in the Frozen Sea      <i>Ursus Arctos</i>.          69
+   only                        55
+*Bear                          57   <i>Ursus arctos</i>.
+*Wolverene                     66   <i>Ursus luscus</i>.          71
+*Common weasel                 75   <i>Mustela nivalis</i>.       69
+*Stoat, <i>or</i> ermine            ib.  <i>Mustela erminea</i>.       68
+*Sable                         79   <i>Mustela zibellina</i>.     68
+ Common otter                  86   <i>Mustela lutra</i>.         66
+*Sea otter                     88   <i>Mustela lutris</i>.        66
+*Varying hare                  94   <i>Lepus timidus</i>.
+ Alpine hare                   97
+*Earless marmot               113   <i>Mus citellus</i>.         113
+ Bobak marmot                 115
+ Water rat                    130   <i>Mus amphibius</i>.         82
+ Common mouse                 131   <i>Mus Musculus</i>.          83
+ OEconomic mouse              134
+ Red mouse                    136
+ Ichelag mouse                138
+ Foetid shrew                 139   <i>Sorex araneus</i>.         74
+*Walrus. Icy sea              144   <i>Trichecus rosmarus</i>.    49
+*Common seal                  151   <i>Phoca vitulina</i>         56
+ Great seal                   159
+ Leporine seal                161
+ Harp seal                    163
+ Rubbon seal. Kurile Isles    165
+ Ursine seal                  ib.   <i>Phoca ursina</i>           58
+ Leonine seal                 172
+*Whale-tailed manati          177
+</pre>
+
+<p>There were no domestic animals in Kamtschatka till they were introduced by
+the Russians. The dogs, which seem to be of wolfish descent, are
+aboriginal.
+
+<p>BIRDS.
+
+<p>LAND BIRDS.
+
+<pre>
+I.    Sea eagle. Vol. II. p. 194   <i>Falco ossifragus</i> ..... 124
+     *Cinereous eagle ...... 2l4   <i>Vultur albiulla</i> ...... 123
+     *White-headed eagle ... 196   <i>Falco leucocephalus</i> .. ib.
+      Crying eagle ......... 215     (Latham, I.38.)
+      Osprey ............... 199   <i>Falco haliætus</i> ....... 129
+      Peregrine falcon ..... 202     (Latham, I.73.[76])
+      Goshawk .............. 204   <i>Falco palumbarius</i>..... 130
+II.   Eagle owl ............ 228   <i>Strix bubo</i> ........... 131
+      Snowy owl ............ 233   <i>Strix nyctea</i>.......... 132
+III   Raven ................ 246   <i>Corvus corax</i>.......... 155
+      Magpye ............... 147   <i>Corvus pica</i> .......... 157
+      Nutcracker ........... 252   <i>Corvus caryocatactes</i>.. ib.
+IV.   Cuckoo ............... 266   <i>Cuculus canorus</i> ...... 168
+V.    Wryneck .............. 267   <i>Jynx torquilla</i> ....... 172
+VI.   Nuthatch ............. 281   <i>Sitta Europea</i>  ....... 177
+VII.  White grous .......... 308   <i>Tetrao lagopus</i> ....... 274
+      Wood grous ........... 312   <i>Tetrao urogallus</i> ..... 273
+VIII. Water ouzel .......... 332   <i>Sturnus cinclus</i>
+IX.   Fieldfare ............ 340   <i>Turdus pilaris</i>  ...... 291
+      Redwing thrush ....... 341   <i>Turdus iliacus</i>  ...... 291
+      Kamtschatkan ......... 343     (Latham, III. 23.)
+X.    Greenfinch ........... 353   <i>Loxia chloris</i> ........ 304
+XI.   Golden bunting ....... 367     (Latham, II. 201.)
+XII.  Lesser red-headed         \
+       linnet .............. 379/    (Latham, II. 305.)
+XIII. Dun flycatcher ....... 390     (Latham, II. 351.)
+XIV.  Sky-lark ............. 394A.  <i>Alauda arsensis</i> ..... 287
+      Wood-lark ............ 395B.  <i>Alauda arborea</i> ...... ib.
+XV.   White wagtail ........ 396E.  <i>Motacilla alba</i> ...... 331
+      Yellow wagtail ....... ib.F.  <i>Motacilla flava</i> ..... ib.
+      Tschutski wagtail .... 397H.    (Latham, IV. 403.)
+XVI.  Yellow wren .......... 413    <i>Motacilla trochilus</i>.  338
+      Redstart ............. 416    <i>Motacilla phænicurus</i>. 335
+      Longbilled ........... 420
+      Stapazina ............ 421    <i>Motacilla stapazina</i>.  331
+      Awatska .............. 422
+XVII. Marsh titmouse ....... 427    <i>Paras palustris</i> ..... 341
+XVIII.Chimney swallow ...... 429    <i>Hirundo rustica</i> ..... 343
+      Martin ............... 430    <i>Hirundo urbica</i> .....  344
+      Sand martin .......... ib.    <i>Hirundo riparia</i> ....  ib.
+XIX. European goatsucker ... 437    <i>Caprimulgus Europeus</i>. 346
+</pre>
+
+<blockquote>[76] The birds, which are not described by Linnæus's, are referred to the
+History of Birds, published by Mr Latham, surgeon in Dartford, Kent.</blockquote>
+
+
+<p>WATER FOWL.
+
+<p><i>Cloven-footed Water Fowl</i>.
+
+<pre>
+Crane                 P.453 A. <i>Ardeagrus</i>               334
+Curlew                P.462 A. <i>Scolopax arquata</i>        242
+Whimbrel              P.462 B. <i>Scolopax phæopus</i>        243
+Common sandpiper     No 388    <i>Tringa hypoleucos</i>       250
+Gambet               No 394    <i>Tringa gambetta</i>         248
+Golden plover        No 399    <i>Charadrius pluvialis</i>    254
+Pied oyster-catcher  No        <i>Hæmatopus ostralegus</i>    257
+</pre>
+
+<p><i>With pinnated Feet</i>.
+
+<p>Plain phalarope.
+
+<p><i>With webbed Feet</i>.
+
+<pre>
+Wandering albatross   No 423  <i>Diomedea exulans</i>         214
+Razor-bill hawk       No 425  <i>Alca torda</i>               210
+Puffin                No 427  <i>Alca arctica</i>             211
+Antient               No 430
+Pygmy                 No 431
+Tufted                No 432
+Parroquet             No 433
+Crested               No 434
+Dusky                 No 435
+Foolish guillemot     No 436  <i>Colymbus troille</i>          220
+Black guillemot       No 437  <i>Colymbus grylle</i>.          ib.
+Marbled guillemot     No 438
+Imber diver           No 440  <i>Colymbus immer</i>            222
+Speckled diver        No 441
+Red-throated diver    No 443  <i>Colymbus septentrionalis</i>  220
+Great tern            No 448  <i>Sterna hirundo</i>.
+Kamtschatkan          P.525 A.
+Black-headed gull     No 455  <i>Larus ridibundus</i>          225
+Kittiwake gull        No 456  <i>Larus rissa</i>               224
+Ivory gull            No 457
+Arctic gull           No 459
+Tarrock               P.533D.<i>Larus tridactylus</i>.         ib.
+Red-legged            P.533 E.
+Fulmar petrel         No 464  <i>Procellaria glacialis</i>     213
+Stormy petrel         No 464  <i>Procellaria pelagica</i>      212
+Kurile petrel         P.536 A.
+Blue petrel.[77]      Preface.
+Goosander merganser   No 465  <i>Mergus merganser</i>          208
+Smew                  No 468  <i>Mergus albellus</i>           209
+Whistling swan        No 469  <i>Anas Cygnus ferus</i>         194 A.
+Great goose           P.570
+Chinese goose         P.571  <i>Anas cygnoides</i>             194 B.
+Snow goose            No 477
+Brent goose           No 478   <i>Anas bernicla</i>            198
+Eider duck            No 480   <i>Anas molitsima</i>           ib.
+Black duck            No 483   <i>Anas spectabilis</i>         195
+Velvet duck           No 481   <i>Anas fusca</i>               196
+Shoveler              No 485   <i>Anas clypeata</i>            200
+Golden eye            No 486   <i>Anas clangula</i>            201
+Harlequin             No 490   <i>Anas histrionica</i>         204
+Mallard               No 494   <i>Anas boschas</i>             205
+* Western             No 497
+Pintail               No 500   <i>Anas acuta</i>               202
+* Longtailed          No 501   <i>Anas glacialis</i>           203
+Morillon              P.573 F. <i>Anas glaucion</i>            201
+Shieldrake            P.572 D. <i>Anas tadorna</i>             195
+Tufted                P.573 G. <i>Anas fuligula</i>            207
+Falcated              P.574 I.
+Garganey              P.576 O. <i>Anas querquedula</i>         263
+Teal                  P.577 P. <i>Anas crecia</i>              204
+Corvorant             No 509   <i>Pelecanus carbo</i>          216
+Violet corvorant      P.584 B.
+Red-faced corvorant   P.584 C.
+</pre>
+
+<blockquote>[77] I never saw this, but it is mentioned by Mr Ellis. I had omitted it in
+my zoologic part.</blockquote>
+
+<p>SECTION VII.
+
+<p>General Account of Kamtschatka, continued.--Of the Inhabitants.--Origin of
+the Kamtschadales.--Discovered by the Russians.--Abstract of their
+History.--Numbers.--Present State.--Of the Russian Commerce in
+Kamtschatka.--Of the Kamtschadale Habitations, and Dress.--Of the Kurile
+Islands.--The Koreki.--The Tschutski.
+
+<p>The present inhabitants of Kamtschatka are of three sorts. The natives, or
+Kamtschadales; the Russians and Cossacks; and a mixture of these two by
+marriage.
+
+<p>Mr Steller, who resided sometime in this country, and who seems to have
+taken great pains to gain information on this subject, is persuaded, that
+the true Kamtschadales are a people of great antiquity, and have for many
+ages inhabited this peninsula; and that they are originally descended from
+the Mungallians, and not either from the Tungusian Tartars, as some, or the
+Japanese, as others have imagined.
+
+<p>The principal arguments, by which he supports these opinions, are, That
+there exists not among them the trace of a tradition of their having
+migrated from any other country; that they believe themselves to have been
+created and placed in this very spot by their god Koutkou; that they are
+the most favoured of his creatures; the most fortunate and happy of beings;
+and that their country is superior to all others, affording means of
+gratification far beyond what are any where else to be met with; that they
+have a perfect knowledge of all the plants of their country, their virtues
+and uses, which could not be acquired in a short time; that their
+instruments and household utensils differ greatly from those of any other
+nation, and are made with an extraordinary degree of neatness and
+dexterity, which implies that they are both of their own invention, and
+have been long in arriving at so great perfection; that, antecedently to
+the arrival of the Russians and Cossacks among them, they had not the
+smallest knowledge of any people, except the Koreki; that it is but of late
+they had an intercourse with the Kuriles, and still later (and happened by
+means of a vessel being shipwrecked on their coast) that they knew any
+thing of the Japanese; and, lastly, that the country was very populous at
+the time the Russians first got footing in it.
+
+<p>The reasons he alleges for supposing them to be originally descended from
+the Mungalians, are, That many words in their language have terminations
+similar to those of the Mungalian Chinese, such as, ong, ing, oing, tching,
+tcha, tchoing, ksi, ksung, &amp;c.; and, moreover, that the same principle of
+inflexion or derivation obtains in both languages; that they are in general
+under-sized, as are the Mungalians; that their complexion, like theirs, is
+swarthy; that they have black hair, little beard, the face broad, the nose
+short and flat, the eyes small and sunk, the eye-brows thin, the belly
+pendant, the legs small; all which are peculiarities that are to be found
+among the Mungalians. From the whole of which he draws this conclusion,
+that they fled for safety to this peninsula, from the rapid advances of the
+Eastern conquerors; as the Laplanders, the Samoides, &amp;c. were compelled to
+retreat to the extremities of the north by the Europeans.
+
+<p>The Russians having extended their conquests, and established posts and
+colonies along that immense extent of coast of the Frozen Sea, from the
+Jenesei to the Anadir, appointed commissaries for the purpose of exploring
+and subjecting the countries still farther eastward. They soon became
+acquainted with the wandering Koriacs, inhabiting the north and north-east
+coast of the sea of Okotzk, and, without difficulty, made them tributary.
+These being the immediate neighbours of the Kamtschadales, and likewise in
+the habits of bartering with them, a knowledge of Kamtschatka followed of
+course.
+
+<p>The honour of the first discovery is given to Feodot Alexeieff, a merchant,
+who is said to have sailed from the river Kovyma, round the peninsula of
+the Tschutski, in company with seven other vessels, about the year 1648.
+The tradition goes, that, being separated from the rest by a storm, near
+the Tschukotskoi Noss, he was driven upon the coast of Kamtschatka, where
+he wintered; and the summer following coasted round the promontory of
+Lopatka, into the sea of Okotzk, and entered the mouth of the Tigil; but
+that he and his companions were cut off by the Koriacs, in endeavouring to
+pass from thence by land to the Anadirsk. This, in part, is corroborated by
+the accounts of Simeon Deshneff, who commanded one of the seven vessels,
+and was thrown on shore at the mouth of the Anadir. Be this as it may,
+since these discoverers, if such they were, did not live to make any report
+of what they had done, Volodimir Atlassoff, a Cossack, stands for the first
+acknowledged discoverer of Kamtschatka.[78]
+
+<blockquote>[78] It is proper to remark, that Atlassoff sent an advanced party, under
+the command of a subaltern, called Lucas Moloskoff, who certainly
+penetrated into Kamtschatka, and returned with an account of his
+success before Atlassoff set out, and is therefore not unjustly
+mentioned as the discoverer of Kamtschatka.</blockquote>
+
+<p>This person was sent, in the year 1697, from the fort Jakutzk to the
+Anadirsk, in the quality of commissary, with instructions to call in the
+assistance of the Koriacs, with a view to the discovery of countries beyond
+theirs, and to the subjecting them to a tribute. In 1699, he penetrated,
+with about sixty Russian soldiers, and the same number of Cossacks, into
+the heart of the peninsula; gained the Tigil; and from thence levying a
+tribute in furs, in his progress crossed over to the river Kamtschatka, on
+which he built the higher Kamtschatka ostrog, called Verchnei, where he
+left a garrison of sixteen Cossacks, and returned to Jakutzk in 1700, with
+an immense quantity of rare and valuable tributary furs. These he had the
+good sense and policy to accompany to Moscow; and, in recompence for his
+services, was appointed commander of the fort of Jakutzk, with farther
+orders to repair again to Kamtschatka; having first drawn from the garrison
+at Tobolsk a reinforcement of a hundred Cossacks, with ammunition, and
+whatever else could give efficacy to the completion and settlement of his
+late discoveries. Advancing with this force toward the Anadirsk, he fell in
+with a bark on the river[79] Tunguska. laden with Chinese merchandize,
+which he pillaged; and, in consequence of a remonstrance from the sufferers
+to the Russian court, he was seized upon at Jakutzk, and thrown into
+prison.
+
+<blockquote>[79] This river empties itself into the Jenesei.</blockquote>
+
+<p>In the mean time, Potop Serioukoff, who had been left by Atlassoff, kept
+peaceable possession of the garrison of Verchnei; and though he had not a
+sufficient force to compel the payment of a tribute from the natives, yet,
+by his management and conciliating disposition, he continued to carry on an
+advantageous traffic with them as a merchant. On his return to the
+Anadirsk, with the general good-will of the natives of Kamtschatka, himself
+and party were attacked by the Koriacs, and unfortunately all cut off. This
+happened about 17O3; and several other successive commissaries were sent
+into Kamtschatka, with various success, during the disgrace and trial of
+Atlassoff.
+
+<p>In 1706, Atlassoff was reinstated in his command, and appointed to conduct
+a second expedition into Kamtschatka, with instructions to gain upon the
+natives by all peaceable means, but on no pretence to have recourse to
+force and compulsion; but, instead of attending to his orders, he not only,
+by repeated acts of cruelty and injustice, made the natives exceedingly
+hostile and averse to their new governors, but likewise so far alienated
+the affections of his own people, that it ended in a mutiny of the
+Cossacks, and their demand of another commander. The Cossacks having
+carried their point, in displacing Atlassoff, seized upon his effects; and,
+after once tasting the sweets of plunder, and of living without discipline
+or controul, in vain did his successors attempt to reduce them to military
+discipline and subjection. Three successive commanders were assassinated in
+their turn; and the Cossacks being thus in open rebellion to the Russian
+government, and with arms in their hands, were let loose upon the natives.
+The history of this country from that period, till the grand revolt of the
+Kamtschadales in 1731, presents one unvaried detail of massacres, revolts,
+and savage and sanguinary rencounters between small parties, from one end
+of the peninsula to the other.
+
+<p>What led to this revolt, was the discovery of a passage from Okotzk to the
+Bolchoireka, which was first made by Cosmo Sokoloff, in the year 1715.
+Hitherto the Russians had no entrance into the country but on the side of
+Anadirsk; so that the natives had frequent opportunities of both plundering
+the tribute, as it was carried by so long a journey out of the peninsula,
+and harassing the troops in their march into it. But by the discovery of
+this communication, there existed a safe and speedy means, as well of
+exporting the tribute, as of importing the troops and military stores into
+the very heart of the country; which the natives easily saw gave the
+Russians so great an advantage, as must soon confirm their dominion, and
+therefore determined them to make one grand and immediate struggle for
+their liberty. The moment resolved upon for carrying their designs into
+execution, was when Beering should have set sail, who was at this time on
+the coast with a small squadron, and had dispatched all the troops that
+could well be spared from the country, to join Powloutski, in an expedition
+against the Tschutski. The opportunity was well chosen; and it is
+altogether surprising, that this conspiracy, which was so general, that
+every native in the peninsula is said to have had his share in it, was at
+the same time conducted with such secrecy, that the Russians had not the
+smallest suspicion that any thing hostile to their interests was in
+agitation. Their other measures were equally well taken. They had a strong
+body in readiness to cut off all communication with the fort Anadirsk; and
+the eastern coast was likewise lined with detached parties, with a view of
+seizing on any Russians that might by accident arrive from Okotzk. Things
+were in this state, when the commissary Cheekhaerdin marched from Verchnei
+with his tribute, escorted by the troops of the fort, for the mouth of the
+Kamtschatka river, where a vessel was lying to convey them to the Anadir.
+Besides waiting for the departure of Beering, the revolt was to be
+suspended till this vessel should be out at sea, notice of which was to be
+given to the different chiefs. Accordingly, the moment she was out of
+sight, they began to massacre every Russian and Cossack that came in their
+way, and to set fire to their houses. A large body ascended the river
+Kamtschatka; made themselves masters of the fort and <i>ostrog</i> the
+commissary had just quitted; put to death all that were in it, and, except
+the church and the fort, reduced the whole to ashes. Here it was that they
+first learned that the Russian vessel, in which the commissary had
+embarked, was still on the coast, which, determined them to defend
+themselves in the fort. The wind fortunately soon brought the vessel back
+to the harbour; for had she proceeded in her voyage, nothing probably could
+have prevented the utter extirpation of the Russians. The Cossacks finding,
+on their landing, that their houses had been burnt to the ground, and their
+wives and children either massacred or carried off prisoners, were enraged
+to madness. They marched directly to the fort, which they attacked with
+great fury, and the natives as resolutely defended, till at length the
+powder-magazine taking fire, the fort was blown up, together with most of
+those that were in it. Various rencounters succeeded to this event, in
+which much blood was spilled on both sides. At length, two of the principal
+leaders being slain, and the third, (after dispatching his wife and
+children, to prevent their falling into the enemy's hand,) having put an
+end to himself, peace was established.
+
+<p>From that period every thing went on very peaceably till the year 1740,
+when a few Russians lost their lives in a tumult, which was attended with
+no farther consequences; and, except the insurrection at Bolcheretsk, in
+1770, (which, has been already noticed,) there has been no disturbance
+since.
+
+<p>Though the quelling the rebellion of 1731 was attended with the loss of a
+great number of inhabitants, yet I was informed that the country had
+recovered itself, and was become more populous than ever, when, in the year
+1767, the small-pox, brought by a soldier from Okotzk, broke out among them
+for the first time, marking its progress with ravages not less dreadful
+than the plague, and seeming to threaten their entire extirpation. They
+compute that near twenty thousand died of this disorder in Kamtschatka, the
+Koreki country, and the Kurile Islands. The inhabitants of whole villages
+were swept away. Of this we had sufficient proofs before our eyes. There
+are no less than eight ostrogs scattered about the bay of Awatska, all
+which, we were informed, had been fully inhabited, but are now entirely
+desolate, except Saint Peter and Saint Paul; and even that contains no more
+than seven Kamtschadales, who are tributary. At Paratounca ostrog there are
+but thirty-six native inhabitants, men, women, and children, which, before
+it was visited by the small-pox, we were told contained three hundred and
+sixty. In our road to Bolcheretsk, we passed four extensive ostrogs, with
+not an inhabitant in them. In the present diminished state of the natives,
+with fresh supplies of Russians and Cossacks perpetually pouring in, and
+who intermix with them by marriage, it is probable, that in less than half
+a century there will be very few of them left. By Major Behm's account,
+there are not now more than three thousand who pay tribute, the Kurile
+islanders included.[80]
+
+<blockquote>[80] Captain Krusenstern informs us, that the people in Kamtschatska, and
+more especially the Kamtschadales, are decreasing in number very
+rapidly, and from different causes. They are subject to several
+epidemic complaints; one of which, he says, carried off upwards of
+five thousand persons in the years 1800 and 1801. But the principal
+causes of depopulation, which, if not speedily removed, threaten the
+total extinction of the inhabitants, are not dependent on the
+severity, or even any peculiar maladies of the climate. It is to the
+excessive use of spirits, and an extraordinary disproportion in the
+number of females, that this serious evil is to be chiefly imputed.
+The great moral defect in the character of the native Kamtschadale, is
+his propensity to drunkenness; in which, it will readily be believed,
+he finds companions amongst his neighbours; and in which, still more
+unfortunately, he is absolutely encouraged, for the most fraudulent
+purposes, by the petty agents of the American Company, and the other
+merchants in Kamtschatka. Nothing can be more infamous than what is
+related by Krusenstern on this subject. Let the following description
+suffice. It is applied by K. indeed to a state of matters which
+formerly existed without controul, but which the government, he would
+have us believe, has lately endeavoured to destroy. How far this
+interference has availed, or is likely to avail, may be conjectured,
+though not without some very painful emotions, from the circumstance
+admitted by K. himself, that there are few Kamtschadales remaining on
+whom its benefits can operate; and the opinion he has also given, that
+before many years have elapsed, these few will perhaps have entirely
+disappeared. "With no other wares," says this candid man, "than a
+large quantity of very bad gin, the merchants travelled about the
+country to procure furs. As soon as one of them arrived in an ostrog,
+he treated his host with a glass of spirits. The Kamtschadales are all
+so unfortunately attached to strong liquors, that it is absolutely
+impossible for them to resist the pleasure of getting intoxicated. As
+soon as he has drank a glass of gin, which he receives for nothing, he
+instantly begs another, for which, however, he must pay; then a
+second, a third, and so on. Still, however, he has had his spirits
+unadulterated; but the moment he begins to be intoxicated, instead of
+pure spirits, they give it him mixed with water; and in order that the
+deception may be carried on with the more security, the merchants have
+the vessels, destined for the spirits, called <i>fliäga</i>, divided into
+two parts; in the smaller one of which they carry their unmixed
+spirits, and in the other the mixed. The merchant now continues to ply
+the Kamtschadale with the weaker liquor, until he becomes perfectly
+senseless, and then takes possession of his whole stock of sables and
+other furs, alleging, that they are to pay for the quantity of spirits
+which he has drank. Thus, in an unfortunate moment, the Kamtschadale
+loses the reward of many months labour and cost; and, instead of
+providing himself with powder and shot, and other necessary and
+indispensable articles, such as would have contributed to his own and
+his family's comfort, he has exhausted all his wealth for one debauch,
+which only weakens him, and renders him more helpless and destitute
+for the future. This wretchedness is accompanied by a depression of
+spirits, which must have a pernicious influence on his body, already
+weakened by disease, and which, at length, from the total want of
+substantial food, and of medical assistance, becomes unable to resist
+such frequent attacks upon it. This appears to me the cause of their
+annual decrease, assisted by epidemical disorders, which sweep them
+off in great numbers." But another cause has been assigned in addition
+to this very deplorable one, and this it may now be necessary to
+specify a little more particularly. Let the words of the same writer
+be taken in evidence, and we may say we have very little reason indeed
+to give ourselves any concern about the condition of the people in
+this distant settlement.--"The prospect of any increase of the
+inhabitants of Kamtschatka was very much diminished, not only by the
+smallness of the number of the remaining Russians and Kamtschadales,
+but by that of the women bearing no kind of proportion to the men. At
+Saint Peter and Saint Paul, where the number of inhabitants, including
+the military, amounts to one hundred and fifty, or one hundred and
+eighty persons, there are not five-and-twenty females. It frequently
+happens, that the company's ships and transports winter here, and the
+number of men is often increased to five hundred; while, on the other
+hand, that of the women remains always the same. The consequences of
+this pernicious disproportion are unproductive marriages, and a total
+decline of all morals. I do not remember to have seen more than five
+or six children at Kamtschatka, and these partly belonged to the
+officers, and partly to such of the inhabitants as had distinguished
+themselves by their exemplary conduct. All the marriages, with the
+exception of three or four, were entirely unproductive." It is almost
+needless to remark, that if the suggestions which Krusenstern has
+given, have not been adopted and acted on, the superiority of the
+diminishing agents will have wrought such an effect since his visit,
+as may render it problematical whether or not this country ought to be
+reckoned amongst the inhabited regions of the earth.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>I understood that there are at this time, of the military, in the five
+forts of Nichnei, Verchnei, Tigil, Bolcheretsk, and Saint Peter and Saint
+Paul, about four hundred Russians and Cossacks, and near the same number at
+Ingiga, which, though to the north of the peninsula, is, I learned, at
+present under the commander of Kamtschatka; to these may be added the
+Russian traders and emigrants, whose numbers are not very considerable.
+
+<p>The Russian government, established over this country, is mild and
+equitable, considered as a military one, in a very high degree. The natives
+are permitted to choose their own magistrates from among themselves, in the
+way, and with the same powers, they had ever been used. One of these, under
+the title of <i>Toion</i>, presides over each ostrog; is the referee in all
+differences; imposes fines, and inflicts punishments for all crimes and
+misdemeanours; referring to the governor of Kamtschatka such only as he
+does not choose, from their intricacy or heinousness, to decide upon
+himself. The Toion has likewise the appointment of a civil officer, called
+a corporal, who assists him in the execution of his office, and in his
+absence acts as his deputy.[81]
+
+<blockquote>[81] The Tayon, or Toyon, according to Krusenstern, is a person chosen from
+amongst the inhabitants, and has a character somewhat similar to that
+of <i>starost</i>, or elder, in the Russian villages. He has an officer
+under him, who bears the title of <i>jessaul</i>, the corporal of the tent,
+who, properly speaking, holds the executive authority of the ostrog,
+as the tayon seldom does more than deliver orders to him. When the
+tayon is absent, the jessaul assumes his place, and is supported by
+the eldest Kamtschadale in the ostrog, who, for the time being,
+becomes his substitute as jessaul. The power of the tayon is said to
+be considerable, extending to the infliction of corporal punishment,
+not, however, exceeding twenty lashes; and his duty, in addition to
+the internal administration of his ostrog, consists in collecting the
+best sables as a tribute to the government, and carrying them to town,
+where they are examined by certain magistrates, appointed for the
+purpose, and afterwards taxed by a person authorised by the crown.
+Enough has been already shewn, it may be thought, for calling in
+question the mildness, or at least the good policy, of the government
+established here. A circumstance is mentioned by Krusenstern, which
+seems to imply something very different, though lately modified, we
+are told, and not without reason, as, to use his own words, it is
+surprising that people could have endured it for a single hour. It may
+be explained in a few words. The capitation tax, which is common
+throughout the Russian empire, is levied according to a census, or
+revision, which is generally taken every twenty years. Where the
+population is on the increase, this is manifestly an advantage to the
+subjects, who would necessarily have more to pay, if the imposition
+were accurately adjusted to the annual augmentation of numbers. But
+the operation of the principle becomes peculiarly oppressive, where,
+on the contrary, as in Kamtschatka, the population has been gradually
+diminishing, and, during some years, had been rapidly reduced. Thus,
+in many of the ostrogs, we are told, that the inhabitants had declined
+from thirty or forty, to eight or ten; and yet the tribute continued
+to be levied on the remainder, according to the preceding census! This
+was, in reality, the <i>caput mortuum</i> of taxation, and perhaps was
+never equalled, at least never surpassed, in absurdity, by the <i>ways
+and means</i> of any other government. Had this system continued for any
+length of time, it is probable, that one or two individuals would at
+length have had the <i>supreme</i> felicity of being in reality the
+representatives of a whole nation, and of course of paying for the
+extraordinary honour. This reminds one of a curious enough occurrence
+said to have happened after a battle in Germany, in which a regiment,
+belonging to the Earl of Tyrconnel, had been engaged. A general muster
+having taken place, his Lordship's regiment was of course called for,
+when a soldier, stepping from the ranks, immediately replied, "I am
+Lord Tyrconnel's regiment!" In fact, the poor fellow was the only
+responsible survivor.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>By an edict of the empress, no crime whatsoever can be punished with death.
+But we were informed, that in cases of murder (of which there are very
+few), the punishment of the knout is administered with such severity, that
+the offender, for the most part, dies under it.
+
+<p>The only tribute exacted (which can be considered as little more than an
+acknowledgment of the Russian dominion over them) consists, in some
+districts, of a fox's skin; in others, of a sable's; and in the Kurile
+Isles, of a sea-otter's; but as this is much the most valuable, one skin
+serves to pay the tribute of several persons. The Toions collect the
+tribute in their respective districts. Besides the mildness of their
+government, the Russians have a claim to every praise for the pains they
+have bestowed, and which have been attended with great success, in
+converting them to Christianity, there remaining at present very few
+idolaters among them. If we may judge of the other missionaries, from the
+hospitable and benevolent pastor of Paratounca (who is a native on the
+mother's side), more suitable persons could not be set over this business.
+It is needless to add, that the religion taught is that of the Greek
+church.[82] Schools are likewise established in many of the ostrogs, where
+the children of both the natives and Cossacks are gratuitously instructed
+in the Russian language. The commerce of this country, as far as concerns
+the exports, is entirely confined to furs, and carried on principally by a
+company of merchants, instituted by the empress. This company originally
+consisted of twelve, and three have been lately added to it. They are
+indulged with certain privileges, and distinguished by wearing a golden
+medal, as a mark of the empress's encouragement and protection of the fur-
+trade. Besides these, there are many inferior traders (particularly of the
+Cossacks) scattered through the country. The principal merchants for the
+time they are here, reside at Bolcheretsk, or the Nichnei ostrog, in which
+two places the trade almost wholly centers. Formerly this commerce was
+altogether carried on in the way of barter, but of late years every article
+is bought and sold for ready money only; and we were surprised at the
+quantity of specie in circulation in so poor a country. The furs sell at a
+high price, and the situation and habits of life of the natives call for
+few articles in return. Our sailors brought a great number of furs with
+them from the coast of America, and were not less astonished than delighted
+with the quantity of silver the merchants paid down for them; but on
+finding neither gin-shops to resort to, nor tobacco, nor any thing else
+that they cared for, to be had for money, the roubles soon became
+troublesome companions; and I often observed them kicking about the deck.
+The merchant I have already had occasion to mention, gave our men at first
+thirty roubles for a sea-otter's skin, and for others in proportion; but
+finding that they had considerable quantities to dispose of, and that he
+had men to deal with who did not know how to keep up the market, he
+afterward bought them for much less.
+
+<blockquote>[82] Krusenstern, who, as we have seen, is far from sparing the laity in
+the distribution of his censures, makes every bit as free with the
+clergy. "The priest of St Peter and St Paul," says he, "was a scandal
+to his profession; in the interior, they are said to be no better, and
+to be particularly obnoxious to the Kamtschadales." This is a serious
+evil, no doubt, but it may reasonably be expected to cease with the
+complaints of the parishioners, as it is very unlikely that at
+Kamtschatka as elsewhere, there should be found any shepherds without
+flocks. To be sure, in some other countries, where this occasionally
+happens, there is this important difference, that the pasture at least
+is worth looking after!--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The articles of importation are principally European, but not confined to
+Russian manufactures; many are English and Dutch; several likewise come
+from Siberia, Bucharia, the Calmucks, and China. They consist of coarse
+woollen and linen clothes, yarn-stockings, bonnets, and gloves; thin
+Persian silks; cottons, and pieces of nankeen, silk and cotton
+handkerchiefs; brass coppers and pans, iron-stoves, files, guns, powder,
+and shot; hardware, such as hatchets, bills, knives, scissars, needles;
+looking-glasses, flour, sugar; tanned hides, boots, &amp;c. We had an
+opportunity of seeing a great many of these articles in the hands of a
+merchant, who came in the empress's galliot from Okotzk; and I shall only
+observe generally, that they sold for treble the price they might have been
+purchased for in England. And though the merchants have so large a profit
+upon these imported goods, they have a still larger upon the furs at
+Kiachta, upon the frontiers of China, which is the great market for them.
+The best sea-otter skins sell generally in Kamtschatka for about thirty
+roubles a-piece. The Chinese merchant at Kiachta purchases them at more
+than double that price, and sells them again at Pekin at a great advance,
+where a farther profitable trade is made with some of them to Japan. If,
+therefore, a skin is worth thirty roubles in Kamtschatka, to be transported
+first to Okotzk, thence to be conveyed by land to Kiachta, a distance of
+one thousand three-hundred and sixty-four miles; and thence on to Pekin,
+seven hundred and sixty miles more; and after this to be transported to
+Japan, what a prodigiously advantageous trade might be carried on between
+this place and Japan, which is about a fortnight's, or at most three weeks,
+sail from it?
+
+<p>All furs exported from hence across the sea of Okotzk, pay a duty of ten
+per cent., and sables a duty of twelve. And all sorts of merchandise, of
+whatever denomination, imported from Okotzk, pay half a rouble for every
+pood.[83]
+
+<blockquote>[83] Thirty-six pounds English.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The duties arising from the exports and imports, of which I could not learn
+the amount, are paid at Okotzk; but the tribute is collected at
+Bolcheretsk; and, I was informed by Major Behm, amounted in value to ten
+thousand roubles annually.
+
+<p>There were six vessels (of from forty to fifty tons burthen) employed by
+the empress between Okotzk and Bolcheretsk; five of which are appropriated
+to the transporting of stores and provisions from Okotzk to Bolcheretsk;
+except that once in two or three years, some of them go round to Awatska
+and the Kamtschatka river; the sixth is only used as a packet-boat, and
+always kept in readiness, and properly equipped for conveying dispatches.
+Besides these, there are about fourteen vessels employed by the merchants
+in the fur-trade, amongst the islands to the eastward. One of these we
+found frozen up in the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, which was to
+sail on a trading voyage to Oonalashka, as soon as the season would
+permit.[84]
+
+<blockquote>[84] This description, little as it may excite any high opinion of the
+prosperity of the place, is nevertheless nearly a contrast to that
+which Krusenstern has given. "The first prospect of St Peter and St
+Paul might raise in the mind of a person newly arrived, and ignorant
+of the history of this Russian establishment, the idea of its being a
+colony founded a few years before, but recently abandoned. Nothing is
+visible here that could at all persuade any one of its being inhabited
+by civilized people; not only Awatska Bay, but the three adjoining
+ones, are entirely forlorn and uninhabited; nor is the beautiful
+harbour of St Peter and St Paul enlivened by a single boat. Instead of
+this, the shores are strewed with stinking fish, among which a number
+of half-starved dogs are seen wallowing, and contending for
+possession. Two baidars belonging to the port, and hauled on shore at
+a low sandy point of land, would be an additional proof of the infancy
+of this colony; if, at the same time, you did not perceive the wreck
+of a three-masted ship, bearing evident marks of having been in its
+present condition for some years. This is the Slawa Rossi, the ship
+which Captain Billing commanded, but which, after the completion of
+his voyage, foundered in the harbour from want of care. The appearance
+immediately brings to mind the celebrated Behring, who, seventy years
+before, commenced his voyage of discovery from this port; But not only
+the two baidars, but the sinking of the ship itself, are too clear a
+proof that the nautical concerns of this colony are still in a state
+of infancy." Krusenstern's descriptions, we see, come after King's,
+somewhat in the manner of Holbein's Dance of Death, after whatever was
+promising or agreeable!--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>It is here to be observed, that the most considerable and valuable part of
+the fur-trade is carried on with the islands that lie between Kamtschatka
+and America. These were first discovered by Beering, in 1741, and being
+found to abound with sea-otters, the Russian merchants became exceedingly
+eager in searching for the other islands seen by that navigator, to the
+S.E. of Kamtschatka, called in Muller's map the islands of Seduction, St
+Abraham, &amp;c. In these expeditions they fell in with three groups of
+islands; the first about fifteen degrees to the east of Kamtschatka, in 53°
+N. latitude; the second about twelve degrees to the eastward of the former;
+and the third, Oonalashka, and the islands in its neighbourhood. These
+trading adventurers advanced also as far east as Shumagin's Islands (so
+called by Beering), the largest of which is named Kodiak. But here, as well
+as on the continent at Alashka, they met with so warm a reception in their
+attempts to compel the payment of a tribute, that they never afterward
+ventured so far. However they conquered, and made tributary the three
+groups before mentioned.
+
+<p>In the Russian charts, the whole sea between Kamtschatka and America is
+covered with islands; for the adventurers in these expeditions frequently
+falling in with land, which they imagined did not agree with the situation
+of others laid down by preceding voyagers, immediately concluded it must be
+a new discovery, and reported it as such on their return; and, since the
+vessels employed in these expeditions were usually out three or four years,
+and oftentimes longer, these mistakes were not in the way of being soon
+rectified; It is, however, now pretty certain, that the islands already
+enumerated are all that have yet been discovered by the Russians in that
+sea, to the southward of 60° of latitude.
+
+<p>It is from these islands that the sea-otter skins, the most valuable
+article of the fur-trade, are for the most part drawn; and as they are
+brought completely under the Russian dominion, the merchants have
+settlements upon them, where their factors reside, for the purpose of
+bartering with the natives. It was with a view to the farther increase and
+extension of this trade, that the admiralty of Okotzk fitted out an
+expedition for the purpose of making discoveries to the N. and N.E. of the
+islands above-mentioned, and gave the command of it, as I have already
+observed, to Lieutenant Synd. This gentleman, having directed his course
+too far to the northward, failed in the object of his voyage; for as we
+never saw the sea-otter to the northward of Bristol Bay, it seems probable,
+that they shun those latitudes where the larger kind of amphibious sea-
+animals abound. This was the last expedition undertaken by the Russians for
+prosecuting discoveries to the eastward; but they will undoubtedly make a
+proper use of the advantages we have opened to them, by the discovery of
+Cook's River.[85]
+
+<blockquote>[85] In Mr Coxe's work, we have accounts of three voyages subsequent to
+Synd's, viz. those of Shelekof, of Ismaelof and Betsharoff, and of
+Billings, all of which were performed betwixt 1778 and 1792. The
+second of these, according to Mr Coxe's opinion, is by far the most
+interesting of any yet made by the Russians. The last, which was of
+very long continuance, and occasioned an enormous expence to the
+government, did not fully answer the expectations entertained of it.
+The commander, an Englishman, is not spoken highly of by Krusenstern,
+who tells us, indeed, that, among the Russian naval officers, there
+were many who would have conducted the expedition much more creditably
+than he did. This may, no doubt, be very true. But how comes it, that
+they were not known in time to be employed? Or, admitting that they
+were known for superiority of talents, but that some reasons,
+independent of any consideration of respective qualifications, decided
+against their being employed, who was to blame, it may be asked, in
+selecting an incompetent, or at least an inferior person, for the
+command of so important an undertaking? Captain Krusenstern may be a
+very able officer; indeed, no one can read his work without
+entertaining a high opinion of his moral and professional character.
+It is shrewdly to be suspected, however, that he is somewhat deficient
+in that prophetic eye of wise policy, which at one glance can
+ascertain the effects and consequences of one's own assertions and
+reasonings. It is not thought advisable to enter upon the
+consideration of the subject now adverted to by Captain King, as a
+fitter opportunity will in all probability present itself for the
+necessary discussion.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>Notwithstanding the general intercourse that for the last forty years hath
+taken place between the natives, the Russians, and Cossacks, the former are
+not more distinguished from the latter by their features and general
+figure, than by their habits and cast of mind. Of the persons of the
+natives, a description hath been already given, and I shall only add, that
+their stature is much below the common size. This Major Behm attributes, in
+a great measure, to their marrying so early; both sexes generally entering
+into the conjugal state at the age of thirteen or fourteen. Their industry
+is abundantly conspicuous, without being contrasted with the laziness of
+their Russian and Cossack inmates, who are fond of intermarrying with them,
+and, as it should seem, for no other reason, but that they may be supported
+in sloth and inactivity. To this want of bodily exertion may be attributed
+those dreadful scorbutic complaints, which none of them escape; whilst the
+natives, by constant exercise and toil in the open air, are entirely free
+from them.[86]
+
+<blockquote>[86] Captain Krusenstern, as may have been already perceived, thinks very
+highly of the Kamtschadale character. In his judgment, the only
+objection to it applies to that superinduced propensity in which the
+avaricious merchant has so often found his account, though to the ruin
+of the unthinking individuals subjected to his temptations. Their
+honesty is greatly extolled; and a cheat is as rare among the
+Kamtschadales as a man of property. So great is the confidence placed
+in them in this respect, that it is quite usual, we are told, for
+travellers, on arriving at an ostrog, to give their whole effects,
+even their stock of <i>brandy</i>, &amp;c. into the hands of the tayon, and
+there is no instance of any one having been robbed to the smallest
+extent. "Lieutenant Koscheleff," says K., "with his accustomed
+simplicity, told me that he had once been sent by his brother, the
+governor, with thirteen thousand roubles to distribute among the
+different towns; that every evening he made over his box with the
+money to the tayon of the ostrog where he slept, and felt much easier,
+having so disposed of it, <i>than he would perhaps have done in any inn
+in St Petersburgh</i>." No doubt, the superior purity of the country air
+would occasion some difference in his feelings! The hospitality of the
+Kamtschadales forms another topic of eulogium. With such moral
+virtues, then, in alliance with great industry, and considerable
+intelligence, it is not to be wondered, that Krusenstern should speak
+of the probable extinction of this race as a most alarming calamity.
+But we have seen that hitherto little care has been manifested to
+prevent its occurrence. The very subject we are now on presents us
+with another sample of the gross impolicy, not to speak of inhumanity
+or injustice, that has been shewn towards these most valuable people.
+The following passage from Krusenstern may be allowed to warrant the
+most severe opinion we can possibly form of any government, that could
+require such services from <i>its slaves</i>. "The necessity of the
+Kamtschadales in Kamtschatka is sufficiently proved, by their being
+every where the guides through the country, and by their conveying the
+mail, which they do likewise, free of expence. In the winter, they are
+obliged to conduct travellers and estafettes from one ostrog to
+another; they supply the dogs of those who travel with jukulla; they
+also lodge the travellers; this, however, they are not obliged to do.
+This hospitable people has, of its own accord, engaged to lodge every
+traveller, and to feed his dogs, without demanding any remuneration.
+In every ostrog there is a supply of fish set apart for this purpose.
+In general, the governor and all officers keep dogs, so that in this
+respect they are not burthen-some to the Kamtschadales; but a story is
+told of a magistrate high in office, having been here a short time
+since, who never travelled but in a sledge like a small house, drawn
+by an hundred dogs. Besides this, he is said to have journeyed with
+such rapidity, that at every station several of these animals
+belonging to the Kamtschadales expired, which he never paid for. In
+the summer, the Kamtschadale is obliged to be always ready with his
+boat to conduct the traveller either up or down the rivers; nor can
+the soldier be sent any where without having one of these people for
+his guide. Thus it frequently happens that they are absent a fortnight
+or more from their ostrog, and lose the best opportunity of providing
+themselves with fish for the winter, as, besides the mere act of
+taking the fish, it requires several days of fine summer weather to
+dry them. If the wet should set in, during this operation, the fish
+instantly becomes magotty, and the whole stock is rendered useless.
+From the great numbers of soldiers, (as, besides the cossacks, there
+is a battalion of five hundred men, and about twenty officers,
+quartered in Kamtschatka), and the small number of Kamtschadales, it
+must be sufficiently evident, that the latter are frequently taken
+from their work, and, it may be added, almost without remuneration;
+for the post-money allowed by the crown, which amounts to one kopeck
+the werst, considering the high price of every article, is, surely,
+not only an inconsiderable, but an insulting reward for the service
+performed," Thus far K. To some readers, it may be necessary to
+mention, in order to their due understanding of this reward, that 100
+kopecks make a rouble, the value of which varies according to the rate
+of exchange from 2s. 6d. to 4s. 2d. British, having been so low as the
+former rate in the year 1803, and that three wersts are about equal to
+two English miles, so that we may fairly enough estimate this insult,
+as K. expresses it, at one half-penny per mile!--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>Referring the reader for an account of the manners, customs, and
+superstitions of the Kamtschadales, at the time the Russians became first
+acquainted with this country, to Krascheninnikoff, I shall proceed to a
+description of their habitations and dress.
+
+<p>The houses (if they may be allowed that name) are of three distinct sorts,
+<i>jourts</i>, <i>balagans</i>, and <i>loghouses</i>, called here <i>isbas</i>. The first are
+their winter, the second their summer habitations; the third are altogether
+of Russian introduction, and inhabited only by the better and wealthier
+sort.
+
+<p>The <i>jourts</i>, or winter-habitations, are constructed in the following
+manner: An oblong square, of dimensions proportioned to the number of
+persons for whom it is intended, (for it is proper to observe, that several
+families live together in the same <i>jourt</i>,) is dug in the earth to the
+depth of about six feet. Within this space strong posts, or wooden pillars,
+are fastened in the ground, at proper distances from each other, on which
+are extended the beams for the support of the roof, which is formed by
+joists, resting on the ground with one end, and on the beams with the
+other. The interstices between the joists are filled up with a strong
+wicker-work, and the whole covered with turf; so that a <i>jourt</i> has
+externally the appearance of a round squat hillock. A hole is left in the
+centre, which serves for chimney, window, and entrance, and the inhabitants
+pass in and out by means of a strong pole (instead of a ladder), notched
+just deep enough to afford a little holding to the toe. There is likewise
+another entrance in the side, even with the ground, for the convenience of
+the women; but if a man makes use of it, he subjects himself to the same
+disgrace and derision as a sailor would who descends through lubbers hole.
+The <i>jourt</i> consists of one apartment, of the form of an oblong square.
+Along the sides are extended broad platforms made of boards, and raised
+about six inches from the ground, which they use as seats, and on which
+they go to rest, after strewing them with mats and skins. On one side is
+the fire-place, and the side opposite is entirely set apart for the stowage
+of provisions and kitchen-utensils. At their feasts, and ceremonious
+entertainments, the hotter the <i>jourts</i> are made for the reception of the
+guests, the greater the compliment. We found them at all times so hot, as
+to make any length of stay in them to us intolerable. They betake
+themselves to the <i>jourts</i> the middle of October; and, for the most part,
+continue in them till the middle of May.
+
+<p>The <i>balagans</i> are raised upon nine posts, fixed into the earth in three
+rows, at equal distances from one another, and about thirteen feet high
+from the surface. At the height of between nine and ten feet, rafters are
+passed from post to post, and firmly secured by strong ropes. On these
+rafters are laid the joists, and the whole being covered with turf,
+constitutes the platform or floor of the <i>balagan</i>. On this is raised a
+roof of a conical figure, by means of tall poles, fastened down to the
+rafters at one end, and meeting together in a point at the top, and
+thatched over with strong coarse grass. The <i>balagans</i> have two doors
+placed opposite each other, and they ascend to them by the same sort of
+ladders they use in the <i>jourts</i>. The lower part is left entirely open; and
+within it they dry their fish, roots, vegetables, and other articles of
+winter consumption. The proportion of <i>jourts</i> and <i>balagans</i>, is as one to
+six; so that six families generally live together in one <i>jourt</i>.
+
+<p>The loghouses (<i>isbas</i>) are raised with long timbers piled horizontally,
+the ends being let into one another, and the seams caulked with moss. The
+roof is sloping like that of our common cottage-houses, and thatched with
+coarse grass or rushes. The inside consists of three apartments. At one end
+is what may be called the entry, which runs the whole width and height of
+the house, and is the receptacle of their sledges, harness, and other more
+bulky gears and household stuff. This communicates with the middle and best
+apartment, furnished with broad benches, for the purpose, as hath been
+above-mentioned, of both eating and sleeping upon. Out of this is a door
+into the kitchen; one half of which is taken up by the oven or fire-place,
+so contrived, by being let into the wall that separates the kitchen and the
+middle apartment, as to warm both at the same time. Over the middle
+apartment and kitchen are two lofts, to which they ascend by a ladder
+placed in the entry. There are two small windows in each apartment, made of
+talc, and in the houses of the poorer sort of fish-skin. The beams and
+boards of the cieling are dubbed smooth with a hatchet (for they are
+unacquainted with the plane), and from the effects of the smoke are as
+black and shining as jet.
+
+<p>A town of Kamtschatka is called an <i>ostrog</i>, and consists of several of the
+three sorts of houses above described; but of which <i>balagans</i> are much the
+most numerous; and I must observe, that I never met with a house of any
+kind detached from an <i>ostrog</i>. Saint Peter and Saint Paul consists of
+seven loghouses, or <i>isbas</i>, nineteen <i>balagans</i>, and three <i>jourts</i>.
+Paratounca is of about the same size. Karatchin and Natcheekin contain
+fewer loghouses, but full as many <i>jourts</i> and <i>balagans</i> as the former;
+from whence I conclude, that such is the usual size of the <i>ostrogs</i>.[87]
+
+<blockquote>[87] Krusenstern's description of the houses and their contents is exactly
+in proportion to the other parts of his very unfavourable report. Even
+of two of them, which he says are the very ornament of Kamtschatka,
+the furniture is represented as most wretchedly deficient. "That of
+the anti-room consisted merely of a wooden stool, a table, and two or
+three broken chairs. There was neither earthen-ware nor porcelain
+table-service; no glasses, decanters, nor any thing else of a similar
+nature; two or three tea-cups, one glass, a few broken knives and
+forks, and some pewter spoons, constituted the wealth of the good
+people (two artillery officers) who were both married. But what most
+of all distressed me, was the condition of their windows; they had not
+double sashes, which, in a cold climate, are as necessary to health as
+to comfort; but such even as they had, were in a very wretched
+condition. The panes were of glass, but notwithstanding their extreme
+smallness, they were all of them broken, and made of pieces fitted
+together. They afforded no protection against the snow and frost; and
+I could not, without feelings of commiseration, behold the children,
+who, in no part of the world, are brought up so wretchedly as here."
+If such were the condition of the best houses, we shall have little
+reason, for the sake of any pleasure at least, to make any enquiry as
+to those of an inferior kind, belonging to the other inhabitants. It
+is perhaps enough then to say in general terms, that they are all ill
+built, that they are so low, as to be entirely covered up with snow
+during the winter, and that in consequence of this circumstance, they
+are throughout that period completely deprived of the fresh air, to
+which want, and to the badness of their provisions, it is
+unquestionably with perfect truth that K. ascribes the pallid hue of
+all the inhabitants, even, as he adds, of the youngest females. The
+construction of a house at St Peter and St Paul, we are further told,
+is very expensive, as there is no suitable timber in the neighbourhood
+of the town, and the people are consequently necessitated to bring it
+from the interior. It is in this manner that thirty or forty soldiers
+are employed, when any public building is to be erected. They are sent
+out under the command of an officer, and for several weeks, during
+which time, and at imminent risk, they fell the timber, and float it
+down the rivers. Thus says K., "the whole garrison of Kamtschatka had
+been occupied during two years in building some barracks for ten or
+twelve men, nor were they even then completed; and the church, on
+which they had been several years employed, was in the same
+predicament!" It is, no doubt, a very natural consequence of such slow
+procedure, that, before a building is quite finished, some part of it
+falls to pieces. Some persons have suggested the use of bricks in
+place of timber, and it seems pretty obvious, from K.'s account, that
+this is quite practicable. It may well be doubted, however; if either
+the prejudices or the indolence of the people will yield to the
+innovation; and much more, indeed, may it be doubted, if the people in
+fact will ever require more houses than those which already exist. If
+they should, notwithstanding such weighty evidence as has been adduced
+to the contrary, the advice which K. has given on the subject, would
+deserve the serious consideration of the government.--E.</blockquote>
+
+
+<p>Having already had occasion to mention the dress of the Kamtschadale women,
+I shall here confine myself to a description of that of the men.
+
+<p>The outermost garment is of the shape of a carter's frock. Those worn in
+summer are of nankeen; in winter they are made of skins, most commonly of
+the deer or dog, tanned on one side, the hair being left on the other,
+which is worn innermost. Under this is a close jacket of nankeen, or other
+cotton stuffs; and beneath that a shirt of thin Persian silk, of a blue,
+red, or yellow colour. The remaining part of their dress consists of a pair
+of tight trowsers, or long breeches, of leather, reaching down to the calf
+of the leg; of a pair of dog or deer-skin boots, with the hair innermost;
+and of a fur-cap, with two flaps, which are generally tied up close to the
+head, but in bad weather are let to fall round the shoulders.
+
+<p>The fur-dress presented to me by a son of Major Behm (as already
+mentioned), is one of those worn by the Toions, on ceremonious occasions.
+The form exactly resembles that of the common exterior garment just
+described. It is made of small triangular pieces of fur, chequered brown
+and white, and joined so neatly as to appear to be one skin. A border of
+six inches breadth, wrought with threads of different coloured leather, and
+producing a rich effect, surrounds the bottom, to which is suspended a
+broad edging of the sea-otter skin. The sleeves are turned up with the same
+materials; and there is likewise an edging of it round the neck, and down
+the opening at the breast. The lining is of a smooth white skin. A cap, a
+pair of gloves, and boots, wrought with the utmost degree of neatness, and
+made of the same materials, constitute the remainder of this suit. The
+Russians in Kamtschatka wear the European dress; and the uniform of the
+troops quartered here, is of a dark-green, faced with red.
+
+<p>As the people, situated to the north and south of this country are yet
+imperfectly known, I shall conclude the account of Kamtschatka with such
+information concerning the Kurile Islands, and the Koreki and Tschutski, as
+I have been able to acquire.
+
+<p>The chain of islands, running in a S.W. direction from the southern
+promontory of Kamtschatka to Japan, extending from latitude 51° to 45°, are
+called the Kuriles. They obtained this name from the inhabitants of the
+neighbourhood of Lopatka, who being themselves called Kuriles, gave their
+own name to these islands, on first becoming acquainted with them. They
+are, according to Spanberg, twenty-two in number, without reckoning the
+very small ones. The northernmost, called Shoomska, is not more than three
+leagues from the Promontory Lopatka, and its inhabitants are a mixture of
+natives and Kamtschadales. The next to the south, called Paramousir, is
+much larger than Shoomska, and inhabited by the true natives; their
+ancestors, according to a tradition among them, having come from an island
+a little farther to the south, called Onecutan. These two islands were
+first visited by the Russians in 1713, and at the same time brought under
+their dominion. The others, in order, are at present made tributary, down
+to Ooshesheer inclusive, as I am informed by the worthy pastor of
+Paratounca, who is their missionary, and visits them once in three years,
+and speaks of the islanders in terms of the highest commendation,
+representing them as a friendly, hospitable, generous, humane race of
+people, and excelling their Kamtschadale neighbours, not less in the
+formation of their bodies, than in docility and quickness of understanding.
+Though Ooshesheer is the southernmost island that the Russians have yet
+brought under their dominion, yet I understand that they trade to Ooroop,
+which is the eighteenth; and according to their accounts, the only one
+where there is a good harbour for ships of burthen. Beyond this, to the
+south, lies Nadeegsda, which was represented to us by the Russians as
+inhabited by a race of men remarkably hairy, and who, like those of Ooroop,
+live in a state of entire independence.[88]
+
+<blockquote>[88] Spanberg places the island here spoken of in 43° 50' N. latitude, and
+mentions his having watered upon it; and that this watering-party
+brought off eight of the natives; of whom he relates the following
+circumstances: That their bodies were covered all over with hair; that
+they wore a loose striped silk gown, reaching as low as their ankles;
+and that some of them had silver rings pendant from the ears; that, on
+spying a live cock on deck, they fell down on their knees before it;
+and likewise, before the presents that were bronght out to them,
+closing and stretching forth their hands, and bowing their heads, at
+the same time, down to the ground; that, except the peculiarity of
+their hairiness, they resemble the other Kurile islanders in their
+features and figure, and spoke the same language. The journal of the
+ship Castricom also mentions this circumstance, of the inhabitants of
+the country discovered by them, and called Jeso, being hairy all over
+the body.</blockquote>
+
+<p>In the same direction, but inclining something more to the westward, lies a
+group of islands, which the Japanese call Jeso; a name which they also give
+to the whole chain of islands between Kamtschatka and Japan. The
+southernmost, called Matmai, hath been long subject to the Japanese, and is
+fortified and garrisoned on the side toward the continent. The two islands
+to the north-east of Matmai, Kunachir, and Zellany, and likewise the three
+still farther to the north-east, called the Three Sisters, are perfectly
+independent.
+
+<p>A trade of barter is carried on between Matmai and the islands last
+mentioned; and between those again and the Kuriles to the northward; in
+which, for furs, dried fish, and oil, the latter get silk, cotton, iron,
+and Japanese articles of furniture.[89]
+
+<blockquote>[89] This accounts for what Krascheninnikoff says, that he got from
+Paramousir a japanned table and vase, a scymeter, and a silver ring,
+which he sent to the cabinet of her imperial majesty, at Petersburg.
+And if what Mr Steller mentions, on the authority of a Kurile, who was
+interpreter to Spanberg in his voyage to Japan, is to be credited,
+that nearly the same language is spoken at Kunashir and Paramousir, it
+cannot be questioned, that some intercourse has always subsisted
+between the inhabitants of this extensive chain of islands.</blockquote>
+
+
+<p>The inhabitants of as many of the islands as are brought under the Russian
+dominion, are at present converted to Christianity. And probably the time
+is not very distant, when a friendly and profitable intercourse will be
+brought about between Kamtschatka and the whole of this chain of islands;
+and which will draw after it a communication with Japan itself. This may
+eventually be greatly facilitated by a circumstance related to me by Major
+Behm, that several Russians, who had been taught the Japanese language, by
+two men belonging to a vessel of that nation, which had been
+shipwrecked[90] on the coast of Kamtschatka, had been sent among those
+islands.
+
+<blockquote>[90] The vessel here spoken of was from Satsma, a port in Japan, bound for
+another Japanese port, called Azaka, and laden with rice, cotton, and
+silks. She sailed with a favourable wind; but, before she reached her
+destination, was driven out to sea by a violent storm, which carried
+away her masts and rudder.
+
+<p>On the storm's abating, not one of the crew, which consisted of
+seventeen (having probably never made any other than coasting
+voyages), knew where they were, or what course to steer. After
+remaining in this situation six months, they were driven on shore near
+the promontory Lopatka; and having cast out an anchor, began to carry
+on shore such articles as were necessary to their existence. They next
+erected a tent, and had remained in it twenty-three days without
+seeing a human being; when chance conducted a cossack officer, called
+Andrew Chinnikoff, with a few Kamtschadales, to their habitation. The
+poor unfortunate Japanese, overwhelmed with joy at the sight of fellow
+creatures, made the most significant tenders, they were able, of
+friendship and affection; and presented their visitors with silks,
+sabres, and a part of whatever else they had brought from the ship.
+The treacherous Chinnikoff made reciprocal returns of kindness and
+good-will; and, after remaining with them long enough to make such
+observations as suited his designs, withdrew from them in the night.
+The Japanese, finding that their visitors did not return, knew not
+what course to take. In despair they manned their boat, and were
+rowing along the coast in search of a habitation, when they came up
+with their vessel, which had been driven ashore; and found Chinnikoff
+and his companions pillaging her, and pulling her in pieces for the
+sake of the iron. This sight determined them to continue their course,
+which Chinnikoff perceiving, ordered his men to pursue and massacre
+them. The unfortunate Japanese, seeing a canoe in pursuit, and which
+they could not escape, apprehended what was to follow. Some of them
+leaped into the sea; others, in vain, had recourse to prayers and
+entreaties. They were all massacred but two, by the very sabres they
+had presented to their supposed friends a few days before. One of the
+two was a boy about eleven years old, named Gowga, who had accompanied
+his father, the ship's pilot, to learn navigation; the other was a
+middle-aged man, the supercargo, and called Sosa.
+
+<p>Chinnikoff soon met with the punishment due to his crimes. The two
+strangers were conducted to Petersburgh, where they were sent to the
+academy, with proper instructors and attendants; and several young men
+were, at the same time, put about them for the purpose of learning the
+Japanese language.
+
+<p>They were thrown on the coast of Kamtschatka in 1730. The younger
+survived the absence from his country five, the other six years. Their
+portraits are to be seen in the cabinet of the empress at
+Petersburgh.--Vid. Krascheninnikoff, vol. ii. part 4. Fr. Ed.</blockquote>
+
+
+<p>The advantages that would accrue to the Russians by an immediate trade to
+Japan, have been already adverted to, and are too many, and too obvious, to
+need insisting upon.[91]
+
+<blockquote>[91] Attempts have been made at different periods by the Russians to open
+up a trade with Japan; and, indeed, one purpose of the voyage which
+Captain Krusenstern undertook, was to conciliate the emperor or
+government of that island. No one, who is at all acquainted with the
+history of the people, will be surprised to learn that the Japanese
+did not think themselves honoured by the embassy; that they even
+refused the presents which had been carried out, and would not concede
+the favour of an alliance which was courted. The result of the whole,
+in fact, was rather a loss than a gain, as a permission which had been
+previously given to visit Nangasaky was withdrawn. Thus, says K., "all
+communication is now at an end between Japan and Russia, unless some
+great change should take place in the ministry of Jeddo, or, indeed,
+in the government itself, and this is perhaps not to be expected." We
+are told, however, in a note, that some revolution is understood
+actually to have taken place after this visit, and that too in
+consequence of this dismissal of the Russian embassy. This is said on
+the authority of a Lieutenant Chwostoff, who heard of it from the
+Japanese, when he visited the northern coast of Jesso in 1806 and
+1807. But as no particulars are mentioned, and as, indeed, the thing
+is somewhat unlikely, one may be allowed to call in question the truth
+of the report. The Russians then, like, the Spaniards, Portugueze,
+English, and Americans, have utterly failed in establishing any
+commercial intercourse with Japan; and the Dutch alone, of any of the
+European nations, have continued, by virtue of their <i>bowing
+propensities</i>, &amp;c., to profit by a direct connection with it.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The Koreki country includes two distinct nations, called the Wandering and
+Fixed Koriacs.
+
+<p>The former inhabit the northern part of the isthmus of Kamtschatka, and the
+whole coast of the eastern ocean; from thence to the Anadir.
+
+<p>The country of the Wandering Koriacks stretches along the north-east of the
+sea of Okotzk to the river Penskina, and westward toward the river Kovyma.
+
+<p>The Fixed Koriacks have a strong resemblance to the Kamtschadales; and,
+like them, depend altogether on fishing for subsistence. Their dress and
+habitations are of the same kind. They are tributary to the Russians, and
+under the district of the Ingiga.
+
+<p>The Wandering Koriacs occupy themselves entirely in breeding and pasturing
+deer, of which they are said to possess immense numbers; and that it is no
+unusual thing for an individual chief to have a herd of four or five
+thousand. They despise fish, and live entirely on deer. They have no
+balagans; and their only habitations are like the Kamtschadale jourts, with
+this difference, that they are covered with raw deer-skins in winter, and
+tanned ones in summer. Their sledges are drawn by deer, and never by dogs;
+which, like the latter, are likewise always spayed, in order to be trained
+to this business. The draft-deer pasture in company with the others; and
+when they are wanted, the huntsmen make use of a certain cry, which they
+instantly obey, by coming out of the herd.
+
+<p>The priest of Paratounca informed me, that the two nations of the Koriacs,
+and the Tschutski, speak different dialects of the same language; and that
+it bears not the smallest resemblance to the Kamtschadale.
+
+<p>The country of the Tschutski is bounded on the south by the Anadir, and
+extends along the coast to the Tschutskoi Noss. Like the Wandering
+Koriacks, their attention is principally confined to their deer, of which
+their country affords great numbers, both tame and wild. They are a stout,
+well-made, bold, warlike race of people; redoubtable neighbours to both
+nations of the Koriacs, who often feel the effects of their depredatory
+incursions. The Russians have for many years been using their endeavours to
+bring them under their dominion; and, after losing a great many men in
+their different expeditions for this purpose, have not been able to effect
+it.
+
+<p>I shall here conclude this article, since all we can say of this people, on
+our own knowledge, hath been laid before the reader in the preceding
+volume.
+
+<p>SECTION VIII.
+
+<p>Plan of our future Proceedings.--Course to the Southward, alone the Coast
+of Kamtschatka.--Cape Lopatka.--Pass the Islands Shoomska and Paramousir.--
+Driven to the Eastward of the Kuriles.--Singular Situation with respect to
+the pretended Discoveries of former Navigators.--Fruitless Attempts to
+reach the Islands North of Japan.--Geographical Conclusions.--View of the
+Coast of Japan.--Run along the East Side.--Pass two Japanese Vessels.--
+Driven off the Coast by contrary Winds.--Extraordinary Effect of
+Currents.--Steer for the Bashees.--Pass large Quantities of Pumice Stone.--
+Discover Sulphur Island.--Pass the Pratas.--Isles of Lema, and Ladrone
+Island.--Chinese Pilot taken on board the Resolution.--Journals of the
+Officers and Men secured.[92]
+
+<blockquote>[92] As we have already exceeded the proportion of notes in the preceding
+pages, it would be improper, even if the importance of the remaining
+matter were more considerable than it is, to hazard farther
+commentary. The reader will find, as, indeed, he will naturally
+expect, that the condition of the vessels, &amp;c. did not admit of much
+more research that could benefit navigation or geography. This,
+therefore, renders it less necessary to occupy attention in the
+results. Some additions have been made to our knowledge of Jesso, the
+neighbouring seas and islands, since the date of this voyage, and in
+no small degree, especially by the expedition under Krusenstern, from
+whose remarks we have already enriched our work. The additional
+observations will properly fall to be considered hereafter. It may be
+necessary, however, to state at present, that the able navigator, just
+now named, had it in his power, from more favourable circumstances, to
+correct the positions of some of the islands seen by Captain Gore, and
+assigned to them in the following section, as Sulphur Island, North
+Island, &amp;c. But the corrections, though important for nautical
+purposes, are not of so much consequence in a general point of view,
+as to justify any particular remarks on the text. It is enough,
+perhaps, to notice the circumstance here, and to take advantage of the
+improvements of Krusenstern or others on any map or chart it may be
+expedient to affix to a subsequent portion of this work. The result of
+K.'s labours, it may be remarked, will require a modification to no
+mean amount of all the maps and charts of the regions we are now
+contemplating.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>Our instructions from the Board of Admiralty having left a discretionary
+power with the commanding-officer of the expedition, in case of failure in
+the search of a passage from the Pacific into the Atlantic Ocean, to return
+to England, by whatever route he should think best for the farther
+improvement of geography, Captain Gore demanded of the principal officers
+their sentiments, in writing, respecting the manner in which these orders
+might most effectually be obeyed. The result of our opinions, which he had
+the satisfaction to find unanimous, and entirely coinciding with his own,
+was, that the condition of the ships, of the sails, and cordage, made it
+unsafe to attempt, at so advanced a season of the year, to navigate the sea
+between Japan and Asia; which would otherwise have afforded the largest
+field for discovery; that it was therefore adviseable to keep to the
+eastward of that island, and in our way thither to run along the Kuriles,
+and examine more particularly the islands that lie nearest the northern
+coast of Japan, which are represented as of a considerable size, and
+independent of the Russian and Japanese governments. Should we be so
+fortunate as to find in these any safe and commodious harbours, we
+conceived they might be of importance, either as places of shelter for any
+future navigators, who may be employed in exploring the seas, or as the
+means of opening a commercial intercourse among the neighbouring dominions
+of the two empires. Our next object was to survey the coast of the Japanese
+Islands, and afterward to make the coast of China, as far to the northward
+as we were able, and run along it to Macao.
+
+<p>This plan being adopted, I received orders from Captain Gore, in case of
+separation, to proceed immediately to Macao; and at six o'clock in the
+evening of the 9th of October, having cleared the entrance of Awatska Bay,
+we steered to the S.E., with the wind N.W. and by W. At midnight we had a
+dead calm, which continued till noon of the 10th; the light-house at this
+time bearing N. 1/2 W., distant five leagues, and Cape Gavareea, S. by W.
+1/2 W. Being luckily in soundings of sixty and seventy fathoms water, we
+employed our time very profitably in catching cod, which were exceedingly
+fine and plentiful; and at three in the afternoon, a breeze sprung up from
+the W., with which we stood along the coast to the southward. A head-land,
+bearing S. by W., now opened with Cape Gavareea, lying about seven leagues
+beyond it. Between them are two narrow, but deep inlets, which may probably
+unite behind what appears to be an high island. The coast of these inlets
+is steep and cliffy. The hills break abruptly, and form chasms and deep
+vallies, which are well wooded. Between Cape Gavareea (which lies in
+latitude 52° 21', longitude 158° 38') and Awatska Bay, there are
+appearances of several inlets, which at first sight may flatter the mariner
+with hopes of finding shelter and safe anchorage; but the Russian pilots
+assured us, that there are none capable of admitting vessels of the
+smallest size, as the low land fills up the spaces that appear vacant
+between the high projecting head-lands. Toward evening, it again became
+calm; but at midnight we had a light breeze from the N., which increased
+gradually to a strong gale; and at noon the next day we found ourselves in
+latitude 52° 4', longitude 158° 31', when Cape Gavareea bore N. by W. 1/4,
+W.; the south extreme, S.W. 1/2 W. We were at this time distant from the
+nearest shore about three leagues, and saw the whole country inland covered
+with snow. A point of land to the southward, which we place in latitude 51°
+54', formed the north side of a deep bay, called Achachinskoi, in the
+distant bottom of which we supposed a large river to empty itself, from the
+land behind being so unusually low. South of Achachinskoi Bay, the land is
+not so rugged and barren as that part of the country which we had before
+passed.
+
+<p>During the night we had variable winds and rain; but at four in the morning
+of the 12th, it began to blow so strong from the N.E., as to oblige us to
+double reef the top-sails, and make it prudent to stand more off the shore.
+At six, the weather becoming more moderate and fair, we again made sail,
+and stood in for the land. At noon, our latitude was 51° 0', longitude 157°
+25'. The northernmost land in sight, being the point we have mentioned as
+first opening with Cape Gavareea, bore N.N.E. A head-land, with a flat top,
+which is in latitude 51° 27', and makes the south point of an inlet, called
+Girowara, bore N. 1/4 E.,.and the southernmost land in sight, W.3/4 N.,
+distant six leagues. At this time we could just perceive low land
+stretching from the southern extreme; but the wind veering round to the
+N.W., we could not get a nearer view of it. At six in the afternoon we saw,
+from the mast-head, Cape Lopatka, the southernmost extremity of
+Kamtschatka. It is a very low flat cape, sloping gradually from the high
+level land that we saw at noon, and bore W.N., about five leagues distant;
+and the high land, N.W. by W. 1/2 W. As this point of land forms so marked
+an object in the geography of the eastern coast of Asia, we were glad to be
+able, by an accurate observation, and several good angles, to determine its
+precise situation, which is in latitude 51° 0', longitude 156° 45'. To the
+N.W. of it we saw a remarkably high mountain, the top of which loses itself
+in the clouds; and, at the same time, the first of the Kurile Islands,
+called Shoomska, appeared in sight, bearing W. 1/2 S. The passage between
+this island and Cape Lopatka, the Russians describe as being three miles
+broad, and very dangerous on account of the rapidity of the tides, and the
+sunk rocks that are off the cape. From Cape Gavareea to Lopatka, the coast
+trends S.E. South of Achachinskoi, the land is not so high and broken as
+between that bay and the mouth of Awatska, being only of a moderate
+elevation toward the sea, with hills gradually rising farther back in the
+country. The coast is steep and bold, and full of white chalky patches.
+
+<p>At noon, the weather falling again to a calm, afforded us an opportunity of
+catching some fine cod. We were, at this time, in forty fathoms water, and
+about five or six leagues from Cape Lopatka. Both in the fore and
+afternoon, we had observations, with different compasses, for the
+variation, and found it to be 5° 20' E.
+
+<p>We stood on all night, under an easy sail, to the S.S.W., having the wind
+westerly. At midnight we sounded, and had sixty fathoms; and, at day-break
+of the 13th, we saw the second of the Kurile Islands, (called by the
+Russians Paramousir,) extending from N.W. by W. to W. 1/2 S. This land is
+very high, and almost entirely covered with snow. At noon, the extremes
+bore from N.N.W. 1/2 W. to W.N.W. 1/2 W.; and a high peaked mountain, from
+which some thought they saw smoke issuing, N.W. by W. 1/2 W., about twelve
+or fourteen leagues distant. At this time our latitude, by observation, was
+49° 49', and our longitude 157° O'. In the course of the day we saw many
+gulls and albatrosses, and several whales.
+
+<p>Paramousir is the largest of the Kuriles under the dominion of Russia, and
+well deserves a more accurate survey, than we were at this time allowed to
+take. For, in the afternoon, the gale increasing from the W., we were never
+able to approach it nearer than we had done at noon; and were, therefore,
+obliged to be contented with endeavouring to ascertain its situation at
+that distance. We place the S. end of the island in latitude 49° 58', the
+N. end in latitude 50° 46', and in longitude 10' W. of Lopatka; and as this
+position is found not to differ materially from that given by the Russians,
+it is probably very near the truth. Whilst we were abreast of this island,
+we had a very heavy swell from the N.E., though the wind had, for some
+time, been from the westward, a circumstance which we have already remarked
+more than once during the course of our voyage. In the night we tried for
+soundings, but found no ground with fifty fathoms of line.
+
+<p>On the 14th and 15th, the wind blowing steadily and fresh from the
+westward, we were obliged to stand to the southward; and consequently
+hindered from seeing any more of the Kurile Islands. At noon of the 16th,
+the latitude, by observation, was 45° 27', the longitude, deduced from a
+number of lunar observations taken during the three days past, 155° 3O'.
+The variation 4° 30' E. In this situation, we were almost surrounded by the
+supposed discoveries of former navigators, and uncertain to which we should
+turn ourselves. To the southward and the S.W. were placed, in the French
+charts, a group of five islands, called the Three Sisters, Zellany and
+Kunashir. We were about ten leagues, according to the same maps, to the
+westward of the land of De Gama, which we had passed to the eastward in
+April last, at a distance rather less than this, without seeing any
+appearance of it; from which circumstance we may now conclude, that, if
+such land exist at all, it must be an island of a very inconsiderable
+size.[93] On the other hand, if we give credit to the original position of
+this land, fixed by Texiera, it lay to the W. by S.; and as the Company's
+Land,[94] Staten Island,[95] and the famous land of Jeso,[96] were also
+supposed to lie nearly in the same direction, together with the group first
+mentioned, according to the Russian charts, we thought this course deserved
+the preference, and accordingly hauled round to the westward, the wind
+having shifted in the afternoon to the northward. During this day we saw
+large flocks of gulls, several albatrosses, fulmars, and a number of fish,
+which our sailors called grampuses; but, as far as we could judge, from the
+appearance of those that passed close by the ships, we imagined them to be
+the <i>kasatka</i>, or sword-fish, described by Krascheninnikoff, to whom I
+refer the reader, for a curious account of the manner in which they attack
+the whales. In the evening, a visit from a small land-bird, about the size
+of a goldfinch, and resembling that bird in shape and plumage, made us keep
+a good look-out for land. However, at midnight, on trying for soundings, we
+found no ground with forty-five fathoms of line.
+
+<blockquote>[93] From Muller's account of the course steered by Captain Spanberg, in
+his route from Kamtschatka to Japan, it appears, that he must also
+undoubtedly have seen De Gama's Land, if it really has the extent
+given it in Mr D'Anville's maps. Walton, who commanded a vessel in the
+same expedition, seems also to have looked in vain for this land on
+his return from Japan; and three years afterward, on account of some
+doubts that had arisen respecting Spanberg's course, Beering went
+directly in search of it, as low as the latitude of 46°.--See <i>Voyages
+et Découvertes</i>, &amp;c. p. 210, et seq.</blockquote>
+
+<blockquote>[94] This land was seen by the Dutchmen who sailed in the Castricom and
+Breskes, and imagined by them to be part of the continent of America.
+There now remains scarce any doubt of its being the islands of Ooroop
+and Nadeegsda. See the journals of the Castricom and Breskes,
+published by Wetzer.</blockquote>
+
+<blockquote>[95] This land was also discovered by the Castricom; and, from its
+situation, as described in the journal of that vessel, it appears to
+be the islands of the Three Sisters.</blockquote>
+
+<blockquote>[96] The country of Jeso, which has so long been a stumbling-block to our
+modern geographers, was first brought to the knowledge of Europeans by
+the Dutch vessels mentioned in the preceding notes. The name appears,
+from the earliest accounts, to have been well known, both to the
+Japanese and the Kamtschadales; and used by them, indiscriminately,
+for all the islands lying between Kamtschatka and Japan. It has since
+been applied to a large imaginary island, or continent, supposed to
+have been discovered by the Castricom and Breskes; and it may not,
+therefore, be improper to consider the grounds of this mistake, as far
+as can be collected from the journals of that expedition. The object
+of the voyage, in which those ships were engaged, was to explore the
+eastern shore of Tartary; but, being separated by a storm off the S.E.
+point of Japan, they sailed in different tracks along the E. side of
+the island; and, having passed its northern extremity, proceeded
+singly on their intended expedition.
+
+<p>The Castricom, commanded by De Vries, steering northward, fell in with
+land on the third day, in latitude 42°. He sailed along the S.E. coast
+about sixty leagues in a <i>constant fog</i>; and, having anchored in
+various places, held a friendly intercourse with the inhabitants. Thus
+far the journal. Now, as the islands of Matimai, Kunashir, and Zellany
+appear, from Captain Spanberg's discoveries, to lie exactly in this
+situation, there can be no doubt of their being the same land; and the
+circumstance of the fog sufficiently accounts for the error of De
+Vries, imagining them to be one continent; without having recourse to
+the supposition of an earthquake, by which Mr Muller, from his desire
+to reconcile the opinion generally received, with the later Russian
+discoveries, conceives the several parts to have been separated. The
+journal then proceeds to give an account of the discovery of Staten
+Island and Company's Land, of which I have already given my opinion,
+and shall have occasion to speak hereafter. Having passed through the
+Straits of De Vries, says the journal, they entered a vast, wild, and
+tempestuous sea, in which they steered, through mists and darkness, to
+the 48° N. latitude; after which they were driven by contrary winds to
+the southward, and again fell in with land to the westward, in
+latitude 45°, which they unaccountably still imagined to be part of
+the continent of Jeso; whereas, whoever examines Jansen's map of their
+discoveries, (which appears to be exceedingly accurate, as far as his
+information went,) will, I believe, have no doubt, that they were, at
+this time, on the coast of Tartary. Having traced this land four
+degrees to the northward, they returned to the southward through the
+Straits they had passed before.
+
+<p>It is not necessary to trouble the reader with the journal of the
+Breskes, as it contains no new matter, and has been already
+republished, and very satisfactorily animadverted upon by Mr Muller.--
+<i>Voyages from Asia to America</i>, &amp;c. English Translation, p. 78.</blockquote>
+
+<p>On the 17th, at noon, we were in latitude 45° 7', by observation, longitude
+154° 0'. The wind now again coming to the westward, obliged us to steer a
+more southerly course; and, at midnight, it blew from that quarter a fresh
+gale, accompanied with heavy rain. In the morning, we saw another land-
+bird, and many flocks of gulls and peterels bending their course to the
+S.W. The heavy N.E. swell, with which we had constantly laboured since our
+departure from Lopatka, now ceased, and changed suddenly to the S.E. In the
+forenoon of the 18th; we passed great quantities of rock-weed, from which,
+and the flights of birds above-mentioned, we conjectured we were at no
+great distance from the southernmost of the Kuriles; and, at the same time,
+the wind coming round to the S., enabled us to stand in for it. At two, we
+set studding-sails, and steered W.; but the wind increasing to a gale, soon
+obliged as to double reef the top-sails; and, at midnight, we judged it
+necessary to try for soundings. Accordingly we hove to; but, finding no
+bottom at seventy-five fathoms, we were encouraged to persevere, and again
+bore away W., with the wind at S.E. This course we kept till two in the
+morning, when the weather becoming thick, we hauled our wind, and steered
+to the S.W. till five, when a violent storm reduced us to our courses.
+
+<p>Notwithstanding the unfavourable state of the weather left us little
+prospect of making the land, we still kept this object anxiously in view;
+and, at day-light, ventured to steer W. by S., and continued to stand on in
+this direction till ten in the forenoon, when the wind, suddenly shifting
+to the S.W., brought with it clear weather. Of this we had scarcely taken
+advantage, by setting the top-sails, and letting out the reefs, when it
+began to blow so strong from this quarter, that we were forced to close-
+reef again; and, at noon, the wind shifting two points to the W., rendered
+it vain to keep any longer on this tack. We therefore put about, and
+steered to the southward. At this time, our latitude, by observation, was
+44° 12', and longitude 150° 40'; so that, after all our efforts, we had the
+mortification to find ourselves, according to the Russian charts, upon a
+meridian with Nadeegsda, which they make the southernmost of the Kurile
+Islands, and about twenty leagues to the southward.
+
+<p>But, though the violent and contrary winds we had met with during the last
+six days, prevented our getting in with these islands, yet the course we
+had been obliged to hold, is not without its geographical advantages. For
+the group of islands, consisting of the Three Sisters, Kunashir, and
+Zellany, (which, in D'Anville's maps, are placed in the track we had just
+crossed,) being, by this means, demonstratively removed from that
+situation, an additional proof is obtained of their lying to the westward,
+where Spanberg actually places them, between the longitude 142° and 147°.
+But as the space is occupied, in the French charts, by part of the supposed
+land of Jeso and Staten Island, Mr Muller's opinion becomes extremely
+probable, that they are all the same lands; and, as no reasons appear for
+doubting Spanberg's accuracy, we have ventured, in our general map, to
+reinstate the Three Sisters, Zellany, and Kunashir, in their proper
+situation, and have entirely omitted the rest. When the reader recollects
+the manner in which the Russians have multiplied the islands of the
+Northern Archipelago, from the want of accuracy in determining their real
+situation, and the desire men naturally feel of propagating new
+discoveries, he will not be surprised, that the same causes should produce
+the same effects. It is thus that the Jesoian lands, which appear, both
+from the accounts of the Japanese, and the earliest Russian traditions, to
+be no other than the Southern Kurile islands, have been supposed distinct
+from the latter. The land of De Gama is next on record; and was originally
+placed nearly in the same situation with those just mentioned, but was
+removed, as has been already suggested, to make room for Staten Island, and
+the Company's Land; and as Jeso, and the southernmost of the Kuriles, had
+also possession of this space, that nothing might be lost, they were
+provided for, the former a little to the westward, and the latter to the
+eastward.
+
+<p>As the islands of Zellany and Kunashir, according to the Russian charts,
+were still to the southward, we were not without hopes of being able to
+mate them, and therefore kept our head as much to the westward as the wind
+would permit. On the 20th, at noon, we were in latitude 43° 47', and
+longitude 150° 30'; and steering W. by S., with a moderate breeze from
+S.E., and probably not more than twenty-four leagues to the eastward of
+Zellany, when our good fortune again deserted us. For, at three o'clock in
+the afternoon, the wind, veering round to the N.W., began to blow so
+strong, that we were brought under our foresail and mizen stay-sail. We had
+very heavy squalls and hard rain, during the next twenty-four hours; after
+which, the horizon clearing a little, and the weather growing moderate, we
+were enabled to set the top-sails; but the wind, still continuing to blow
+from the N.W., baffled all our endeavours to make the land, and obliged us,
+at last, to give up all further thoughts of discovery to the N. of Japan.
+We submitted to this disappointment with the greater reluctance, as the
+accounts that are given of the inhabitants of these islands, mentioned at
+the end of the last section, had excited in us the greater curiosity to
+visit them.
+
+<p>In the afternoon, the leach-rope of the Resolution's fore top-sail gave
+way, and split the sail. As this accident had often happened to us in
+Captain Cook's life-time, he had ordered the foot and leach ropes of the
+topsails to be taken out, and larger fixed in their stead; and as these
+also proved unequal to the strain that was on them, it is evident, that the
+proper proportion of strength between those ropes and the sail is
+exceedingly miscalculated in our service. This day a land-bird perched on
+the rigging, and was taken; it was larger than a sparrow, but, in other
+respects, very like one.
+
+<p>The gale now abated gradually; so that, in the morning of the 22d, we let
+out the reefs of the topsails, and made more sail. At noon, we were in
+latitude 40° 58', and longitude 148° 17', the variation 3° E. In the
+afternoon, another little wanderer from the land pitched on the ship, and
+was so worn out with fatigue, that it suffered itself to be taken
+immediately, and died a few hours afterward. It was not bigger than a wren,
+had a tuft of yellow feathers on its head, and the rest of its plumage like
+that of the linnet. The sparrow, being stronger, lived a long time. These
+birds plainly indicating, that we could not be at any great distance from
+the land, and the wind, after varying a little, fixing in the evening at
+N., our hopes of making the land again revived, and we hauled up to the
+W.N.W., in which direction, the southernmost islands seen by Spanberg, and
+said to be inhabited by hairy men, lay at the distance of about fifty
+leagues. But the wind not keeping pace with our wishes, blew in such light
+airs, that we made little way, till eight next morning, when we had a fresh
+breeze from the S.S.W., with which we continued to steer W.N.W. till the
+evening. At noon, we were in latitude 40° 35', longitude 146° 45'; the
+latter deduced from several lunar observations taken during the night. The
+variation of the needle we found to be 17' E. In the evening, we had strong
+squally gales attended with rain, and having passed, in the course of the
+day, several patches of green grass, and seen a shag, many small land-
+birds, and flocks of gulls, it was not thought prudent, with all these
+signs of the vicinity of land, to stand on during the whole night. We
+therefore tacked at midnight, and steered a few hours to the S.E., and, at
+four in the morning of the 24th, again directed our course to the W.N.W.,
+and carried a press of sail till seven in the evening, when the wind
+shifted from S.S.W. to N., and blew a fresh gale. At this time we were in
+the latitude of 40° 57', and the longitude of 145° 20'.
+
+<p>This second disappointment in our endeavours to get to the N.W., together
+with the boisterous weather we had met with, and the little likelihood, at
+this time of the year, of its becoming more favourable to our views, were
+Captain Gore's motives for now finally giving up all farther search for the
+islands to the N. of Japan, and for shaping a course W.S.W., for the N.
+part of that island. In the night, the wind shifted to the N.E., and blew a
+fresh gale, with hard rain, and hazy weather, which, by noon of the 25th,
+brought us to the latitude of 40° 18', in the longitude 144° 0'. To-day, we
+saw flights of wild-ducks, a pigeon lighted on our rigging, and many birds,
+like linnets, flew about us with a degree of vigour that seemed to prove,
+they had not been long upon the wing. We also passed patches of long grass,
+and a piece either of sugar-cane or bamboo. These signs, that land was at
+no great distance, induced us to try for soundings; but we found no ground
+with ninety fathoms of line, Toward evening, the wind by degrees shifted
+round to the S., with which we still kept on to the W.S.W.; and at day-
+break of the 26th, we had the pleasure of descrying high land to the
+westward, which proved to be Japan. At eight, it extended from N.W. to S.
+by W., distant three or four leagues. A low flat cape bore N.W. 3/4 W., and
+seemed to make the S. part of the entrance of a bay. Toward the S. extreme,
+a conical-shaped hill bore S. by W. 3/4 W. To the northward of this hill
+there appeared to be a very deep inlet, the N. side of the entrance into
+which is formed by a low point of land, and, as well as we could judge by
+our glasses, has a small island near it to the southward.
+
+<p>We stood on till nine, when we were within two leagues of the land, bearing
+W. 3/4 S., and had soundings of fifty-eight fathoms, with a bottom of very
+fine sand. We now tacked and stood off; but the wind dying away, at noon we
+had got no farther than three leagues from the coast, which extended from
+N.W. by N. 3/4 W. to S. 1/2 E., and was, for the most part, bold and
+cliffy. The low cape to the northward bore N.W. by W., six leagues distant;
+and the N. point of the inlet S. 3/4 W. The latitude, by observation, was
+40° 5', and longitude 142° 28'. The northernmost land in sight, we judged
+to be the northern extremity of Japan.[97] It is lower than any other part;
+and, from the range of the high lands that were seen over it from the mast-
+head, the coast appeared evidently to incline round to the westward. The N.
+point of the inlet we supposed to be Cape Nambu, and the town to be
+situated in a break of the high land, toward which the inlet seemed to
+direct itself[98]. The country is of a moderate height, consists of a
+double range of mountains; it abounds with wood, and has a pleasing variety
+of hills and dales. We saw the smoke of several towns or villages, and many
+houses near the shore, in pleasant and cultivated situations.
+
+<blockquote>[97] The only authentic survey of the eastern coast of Japan, with which I
+am acquainted, is that published by Jansen in his Atlas, and compiled
+with great accuracy from the charts and journals of the Castricom and
+Breskes. I have therefore adopted, wherever the identity of the
+situations could be nearly ascertained, the names given in that map to
+the corresponding points and head-lands seen by us along the coast.
+
+<p>Jansen places the northern extremity of Japan in latitude 40° 15'. The
+point seen by us was in latitude 40° 27'.</blockquote>
+
+<blockquote>[98] This town is called by Jansen, Nabo.</blockquote>
+
+<p>During the calm, being willing to make the best use of our time, we put our
+fishing lines overboard, in sixty fathoms water, but without any success.
+As this was the only amusement our circumstances admitted, the
+disappointment was always very sensibly felt, and made us look back with
+regret to the cod-banks of the dreary regions we had left, which had
+supplied us with so many wholesome meals, and, by the diversion they
+afforded, had given a variety to the wearisome succession of gales and
+calms, and the tedious repetition of the same nautical observations. At two
+in the afternoon, the breeze freshened from the southward, and, by four,
+had brought us under close-reefed topsails, and obliged us to stand off to
+the S.E. In consequence of this course, and the haziness of the weather,
+the land soon disappeared. We kept on all night, and till eight the next
+morning, when the wind coming round to the N., and growing moderate, we
+made sail, and steered W.S.W., toward the land; but did not make it till
+three in the afternoon, when it extended from N.W. 1/2 W. to W. The
+northernmost extreme being a continuation of the high land, which was the
+southernmost we had seen the day before; the land to the W. we conceived to
+be the Hofe Tafel Berg (the High Table Hill) of Jansen. Between the two
+extremes, the coast was low and scarcely perceptible, except from the mast-
+head. We stood on toward the coast till eight, when we were about five
+leagues distant; and, having shortened sail for the night, steered to the
+southward, sounding every four hours, but never found ground with one
+hundred and sixty fathoms of line.
+
+<p>On the 28th, at six in the morning, we again saw land, twelve leagues to
+the southward of that seen the preceding day, extending from W.S.W. to W.
+by N. We steered S.W. obliquely with the shore; and, at ten, saw more land
+open to the S.W. To the westward of this land, which is low and flat, are
+two islands as we judged, though some doubts were entertained, whether they
+might not be connected with the adjacent low ground. The hazy weather,
+joined to our distance, prevented us also from determining, whether there
+are any inlets or harbours between the projecting points, which seem here
+to promise good shelter. At noon, the N. extreme bore N.W. by N., and a
+high peaked hill, over a steep headland, W. by N., distant five leagues.
+Our latitude at this time, by observation, was 38° 16', longitude 142° 9'.
+The mean of the variation, from observations taken both in the fore and
+afternoon, was 1° 20' E.
+
+<p>At half-past three in the afternoon, we lost sight of the land; and, from
+its breaking off so suddenly, conjectured, that what we had seen this day
+is an island, or, perhaps, a cluster of islands, lying off the main land of
+Japan; but as the islands, called by Jansen the Schildpads, and by Mr
+D'Anville Matsima, though laid down nearly in the same situation, are not
+equal in extent to the land seen by us, we must leave this point undecided.
+Having kept a S.W. course during the remaining part of the day, we found
+ourselves, at midnight, in seventy fathoms water, over a bottom of fine
+dark-brown sand. We therefore hauled up to the eastward, till morning, when
+we saw the land again, about eleven leagues to the southward of that which
+we had seen the day before; and at eight, we were within six or seven miles
+of the shore, having carried, in regular soundings, from sixty-five to
+twenty fathoms, over coarse sand and gravel. Unluckily there was a haze
+over the land, which hindered our distinguishing small objects on it. The
+coast is straight and unbroken, and runs nearly in a N, and S. direction.
+Toward the sea the ground is low, but rises gradually into hills of a
+moderate height, whose tops are tolerably even, and covered with wood.
+
+<p>At nine o'clock, the wind shifting to the southward, and the sky lowring,
+we tacked and stood off to the E., and soon after, we saw a vessel, close
+in with the land, standing along the shore to the northward, and another in
+the offing, coming down on us before the wind. Objects of any kind,
+belonging to a country so famous, and yet so little known, it will be
+easily conceived, must have excited a general curiosity, and accordingly
+every soul on board was upon deck in an instant, to gaze at them. As the
+vessel to windward approached us, she hauled farther off shore; upon which,
+fearing that we should alarm them by the appearance of a pursuit, we
+brought the ships to, and she passed ahead of us, at the distance of about
+half a mile. It would have been easy for us to have spoken with them; but
+perceiving, by their manoeuvres, that they were much frightened, Captain
+Gore was not willing to augment their terrors; and, thinking that we should
+have many better opportunities of communication with this people, suffered
+them to go off without interruption. Our distance did not permit us to
+remark any particular regarding the men on board, who seemed to be about
+six in number, especially as the haziness of the weather precluded the use
+of our glasses. According to the best conjectures we were able to form, the
+vessel was about forty tons burthen. She had but one mast, on which was
+hoisted a square sail, extended by a yard aloft, the braces of which worked
+forward. Half-way down the sail, came three pieces of black cloth, at equal
+distances from each other. The vessel was higher at each end than in the
+midship; and we imagined, from her appearance and form, that it was
+impossible for her to sail any otherwise than large.
+
+<p>At noon, the wind freshened, and brought with it a good deal of rain; by
+three, it had increased so much, that we were reduced to our courses; at
+the same time, the sea ran as high as any one on board ever remembered to
+have seen it. If the Japanese vessels are, as Kæmpfer describes them, open
+in the stern, it would not have been possible for those we saw to have
+survived the fury of this storm; but, as the appearance of the weather, all
+the preceding part of the day, foretold its coming, and one of the sloops
+had, notwithstanding, stood far out to sea, we may safely conclude, that
+they are perfectly capable of bearing a gale of wind. Spanberg indeed
+describes two kinds of Japanese vessels; one answering to the above
+description of Kæmpfer, the other, which he calls busses, and in which, he
+says, they make their voyages to the neighbouring islands, exactly
+corresponds with those we saw.[99]
+
+<blockquote>[99] Vide Muller, Fr. ed. page 215.</blockquote>
+
+<p>At eight in the evening, the gale shifted to the W., without abating the
+least in violence, and by raising a sudden swell, in a contrary direction
+to that which prevailed before, occasioned the ships to strain and labour
+exceedingly. During the storm, several of the sails were split on board the
+Resolution. Indeed they had been so long bent, and were worn so thin, that
+this accident had of late happened to us almost daily, in both ships;
+especially when, being stiff and heavy with the rain, they became less able
+to bear the shocks of the violent and variable winds we at this time
+experienced. The gale at length growing moderate, and settling to the W.,
+we kept upon a wind to the southward; and, at nine in the morning of the
+30th, we saw the land, at the distance of about fifteen leagues, bearing
+from W. by N. to N.W. 1/4 W. It appeared in detached parts; but whether
+they were small islands, or parts of Japan, our distance did not enable us
+to determine. At noon, it extended from N.W. to W., the nearest land being
+about thirteen leagues distant, beyond which the coast seemed to run in a
+westerly direction. The latitude, by observation, was 36° 41', longitude
+142° 6'. The point to the northward, which was supposed to be near the
+southernmost land seen the day before, we conjectured to be Cape de Kennis,
+and the break to the southward of this point, to be the mouth of the
+river on which the town of Gissima is said to be situated. The next cape is
+probably that called in the Dutch charts Boomtje's Point; and the
+southernmost, off which we were abreast at noon, we suppose to be near Low
+Point,[100] and that we were at too great distance to see the low land, in
+which it probably terminates, to the eastward.
+
+<blockquote>[100] <i>Lage Hoeck</i>, or Low Point, is placed by Jansen in latitude
+36° 40'.</blockquote>
+
+<p>In the afternoon, the wind veering round to the N.E., we stood to the
+southward, at the distance of about eighteen leagues from the shore, trying
+for soundings as we went along, but finding none with one hundred and
+fifteen fathoms of line. At two the next morning, it shifted to W.,
+attended with rain and lightning, and blowing in heavy squalls. During the
+course of the day, we had several small birds of a brown plumage,
+resembling linnets, flying about us, which had been forced off the land by
+the strong westerly gales; but toward the evening, the wind coming to the
+N.W., we shaped our coarse, along with them, to W.S.W., in order to regain
+the coast. In the morning of the 1st of November, the wind again shifted to
+S.E., and bringing with it fair weather, we got forty-two sets of distances
+of the moon from the sun and stars, with four different quadrants, each set
+consisting of six observations; these agreeing pretty nearly with each
+other, fix our situation at noon the same day, with great accuracy, in
+longitude 141° 32'; the latitude, by observation, was 35° 17', We found an
+error of latitude, in our reckonings of the preceding day, of eight miles,
+and in this day's of seventeen; from whence, and from our being much more
+to the eastward than we expected, we concluded, that there had been a
+strong current from the S.W.
+
+<p>At two in the afternoon, we again made the land to the westward, at the
+distance of about twelve leagues; the southernmost land in sight, which we
+supposed to be White Point,[101], bore W.S.W. 1/2 W.; a hummock to the
+northward, which had the appearance of being an island, bore N.N.W. 1/2 W.,
+within which we saw from the mast-head low land, which we took to be Sand-
+down Point.[102] We stood in toward the land, till half-past five, when we
+hauled our wind to the southward. At this time we saw a number of Japanese
+vessels, close in with the land, several seemingly engaged in fishing, and
+others standing along shore. We now discovered to the westward a remarkably
+high mountain, with a round top, rising far inland. There is no high ground
+near it, the coast being of a moderate elevation, and, as far as we could
+judge, from the haziness of the horizon, much broken by small inlets. But
+to the southward of the hummock island before mentioned, there appeared, at
+a great distance, within the country, a ridge of hills, stretching in a
+direction toward the mountain, and probably joining with it. As this is the
+most remarkable hill on the coast, we could have wished to have settled its
+situation exactly; but having only had this single view, were obliged to be
+contented with such accuracy as our circumstances would allow. Its latitude
+therefore we conceive to be 35° 20', its longitude, estimated by its
+distance from the ships, at this time fifteen leagues, 140° 26'.
+
+<blockquote>[101] <i>Witte Hoeck</i>, placed by Jansen in latitude 35° 24'.</blockquote>
+
+<blockquote>[102] <i>Sanduynege Hoeck</i>, in latitude 35° 55'. Jansen.</blockquote>
+
+<p>As the Dutch charts make the coast of Japan extend about ten leagues to the
+S.W. of White Point, at eight we tacked, and stood off to the eastward, in
+order to weather the point. At midnight, we again tacked to the S.W.,
+expecting to fall in with the coast to the southward, but were surprised,
+in the morning at eight, to see the hummock, at the distance only of three
+leagues, bearing W.N.W. We began, at first, to doubt the evidence of our
+senses, and afterward to suspect some deception from a similarity of land;
+but, at noon, we found ourselves, by observation, to be actually in
+latitude 35° 43', at a time when our reckonings gave us 34° 48'. So that,
+during the eight hours in which we supposed we had made a course of nine
+leagues to the S.W., we had in reality been carried eight leagues from the
+position we left, in a direction diametrically opposite; which made, on the
+whole, in that short space of time, a difference in our reckoning of
+seventeen leagues. From this error, we calculated, that the current had set
+to the N.E. by N., at the rate of at least five miles an hour. Our
+longitude, at this time, was 141° 16'.
+
+<p>The weather having now the same threatening appearance as on the 29th of
+October, which was followed by so sudden and severe a gale, and the wind
+continuing at S.S.E., it was thought prudent to leave the shore, and stand
+off to the eastward, to prevent our being entangled with the land. Nor were
+we wrong in our prognostications; for it soon afterward began, and
+continued till next day, to blow a heavy gale, accompanied with hazy and
+rainy weather. In the morning of the 3d, we found ourselves, by our
+reckoning, upward of fifty leagues from the land; which circumstance,
+together with the very extraordinary effect of currents we had before
+experienced, the late season of the year, the unsettled state of the
+weather, and the little likelihood of any change for the better, made
+Captain Gore resolve to leave Japan altogether, and prosecute our voyage to
+China; hoping, that as the track he meant to pursue had never yet been
+explored, he should be able to make amends, by some new discovery, for the
+disappointments we had met with on this coast.
+
+<p>If the reader should be of opinion that we quitted this object too hastily,
+in addition to the facts already stated it ought to be remarked, that
+Kæmpfer describes the coast of Japan as the most dangerous in the whole
+world;[103] that it would have been equally dangerous, in case of distress,
+to run into any of their harbours, where we know, from the best
+authorities, that the aversion of the inhabitants to any intercourse with
+strangers, has led them to commit the most atrocious barbarities; that our
+ships were in a leaky condition, that our sails were worn out, and unable
+to withstand, a gale of wind, and that the rigging was so rotten as to
+require constant and perpetual repairs.
+
+<blockquote>[103] See Kæmpfer's Hist. of Japan, vol. i. p 92, 93, 94, and 102.</blockquote>
+
+<p>As the strong currents, which set along the eastern coast of Japan, may be
+of dangerous consequence to the navigator, who is not aware of their
+extraordinary rapidity, I shall take leave of this island, with a summary
+account of their force and direction, as observed by us from the 1st to the
+8th of November. On the 1st, at which time we were about eighteen leagues
+to the eastward of White Point, the current set N.E. and by N., at the rate
+of three miles an hour; on the 2d, as we approached the shore, we found it
+continuing in the same direction, but increased its rapidity to five miles
+an hour; as we left the shore it again became more moderate, and inclined
+to the eastward; on the 3d, at the distance of sixty leagues, it set to the
+E.N.E., three miles an hour; on the 4th and 5th, it turned to the
+southward, and at one hundred and twenty leagues from the land, its
+direction was S.E., and its rate not more than a mile and a half an hour;
+on the 6th and 7th, it again shifted round to the N.E., its force gradually
+diminishing till the 8th, when we could no longer perceive any at all.
+
+<p>During the 4th and 5th, we continued our course to the S.E., having very
+unsettled weather, attended with much lightning and rain. On both days we
+passed great quantities of pumice-stone, several pieces of which we took
+up, and found to weigh from one ounce to three pounds. We conjectured that
+these stones had been thrown into the sea by eruptions of various dates, as
+many of them were covered with barnacles, and others quite bare. At the
+same time, we saw two wild ducks, and several small land-birds, and had
+many porpoises playing round us.
+
+<p>On the 6th, at day-light, we altered our course to the S.S.W.; but, at
+eight in the evening, we were taken back, and obliged to steer to the S.E.
+On the 7th, at noon, we saw a small land-bird, our latitude, by
+observation, at this time, being 33° 52', and longitude 148° 42'. On the
+9th, we were in latitude 31° 46', longitude 146° 20', when we again saw a
+small land-bird, a tropic bird, porpoises, flying fishes, and had a great
+swell from the E.S.E. We continued our course to the S.W., having the winds
+from the northward, without any remarkable occurrence, till the 12th, when
+we had a most violent gale of wind from the same quarter, which reduced us
+to the fore-sail and mizen stay-sail; and, as the weather was so hazy, that
+we were not able to see a cable's length before us, and many shoals and
+small islands are laid down in our charts, in this part of the ocean, we
+brought-to, with our heads to the S.W. At noon, the latitude by account was
+27° 36', longitude 144° 25'. In the morning of the 13th, the wind shifting
+round to the N.W., brought with it fair weather; but though we were, at
+this time nearly in the situation given to the island of St Juan, we saw no
+appearance of land. We now bore away to the S.W., and set the top-sails,
+the gale still continuing with great violence. At noon, the latitude, by
+observation, was 26° 0', longitude 143° 40', and variation 3° 50' E. In the
+afternoon, we saw flying fish and dolphins, also tropic birds and
+albatrosses. We still continued to pass much pumice-stone; indeed, the
+prodigious quantities of this substance which float in the sea, between
+Japan and the Bashee islands, seem to indicate, that some great volcanic
+convulsion must have happened in this part of the Pacific Ocean; and
+consequently give some degree of probability to the opinion of Mr Muller,
+which I have already had occasion to mention, respecting the separation of
+the continent of Jeso, and the disappearance of Company's Land and Staten
+Island.
+
+<p>At six in the afternoon, we altered our coarse to the W.S.W., Captain Gore
+judging it useless to steer any longer to the S.S.W., as we were near the
+meridian of the Ladrones, or Marianne Islands, and at no great distance
+from the track of the Manilla ships. In the morning of the 14th, the
+weather became fine, and the wind, which was moderate, gradually shifted to
+the N.E., and proved to be the trade-wind. At ten, Mr Trevenen, one of the
+young gentlemen who came along with me into the Discovery, saw land
+appearing like a peaked mountain, and bearing S.W. At noon, the latitude,
+by observation, was 24° 37', longitude 142° 2'. The land, which we now
+discovered to be an island, bore S.W. 1/2 W., distant eight or ten leagues;
+and at two in the afternoon, we saw another to the W.N.W. This second
+island, when seen at a distance, has the appearance of two; the south point
+consisting of a high conical hill, joined by a narrow neck to the northern
+land, which is of a moderate height. As this was evidently of greater
+extent than the island to the south, we altered our course toward it. At
+four, it bore N.W. by W.; but, not having day-light sufficient to examine
+the coast, we stood upon our tacks during the night.
+
+<p>On the 15th, at six in the morning, we bore away for the south point of the
+larger island, at which time we discovered another high island, bearing N.
+3/4 W., the south island, being on the same rhomb line, and the south point
+of the island ahead, W. by N. At nine, we were abreast, and within a mile
+of the middle island, but Captain Gore, finding that a boat could not land
+without some danger from the great surf that broke on the shore, kept on
+his course to the westward. At noon, our latitude, by observation, was 24°
+50', longitude 140° 56' E.
+
+<p>This island is about five miles long, in a N.N.E., and S.S.W. direction.
+The south point is a high barren hill, flattish at the top, and, when seen
+from the W.S.W., presents an evident volcanic crater. The earth, rock, or
+sand, for it was not easy to distinguish of which its surface was composed,
+exhibited various colours, and a considerable part we conjectured to be
+sulphur, both from its appearance to the eye, and the strong sulphurous
+smell which we perceived as we approached the point. Some of the officers
+on board the Resolution, which passed nearer the land, thought they saw
+steams rising from the top of the hill. From these circumstances, Captain
+Gore gave it the name of <i>Sulphur Island</i>. A low, narrow neck of land
+connects this hill with the south end of the island, which spreads out into
+a circumference of three or four leagues, and is of a moderate height. The
+part near the isthmus has some bushes on it, and has a green appearance,
+but those to the N.E. are very barren, and full of large detached rocks,
+many of which were exceedingly white. Very dangerous breakers extend two
+miles and a half to the east, and two miles to the west, off the middle
+part of the island, on which the sea broke with great violence.
+
+<p>The north and south islands appeared to us as single mountains of a
+considerable height; the former peaked, and of a conical shape; the latter
+more square and flat at the top. Sulphur Island we place in latitude 24°
+48', longitude 141° 12'. The north island in latitude 25° 14', longitude
+141° 10'. The south island in latitude 24° 22', and longitude 141° 26'. The
+variation observed was 3° 30' E.
+
+<p>Captain Gore now directed his course to the W.S.W., for the Bashee Islands,
+hoping to procure, at them, such a supply of refreshments as would help to
+shorten his stay in Macao. These islands were visited by Dampier, who gives
+a very favourable account, both of the civility of the inhabitants, and of
+the plenty of hogs and vegetables, with, which the country abounds; they
+were afterwards seen by Byron and Wallis, who passed them without landing.
+
+<p>In order to extend our view, in the day-time, the ships spread between two
+and three leagues from each other, and during the night, we went under an
+easy sail; so that it was scarcely possible to pass any land that lay in
+the neighbourhood of our course. In this manner we proceeded, without any
+occurrence worth remarking, with a fresh breeze from the N.E., till the
+22d, when it increased to a strong gale, with violent squalls of wind and
+rain, which brought us under close-reefed top-sails.
+
+<p>At noon of the 23d, the latitude, by account, was 21° 5', and longitude
+123° 20'; at six in the evening, being now only twenty-one leagues from the
+Bashee Islands, according to the situation in Mr Dalrymple's map, and the
+weather squally attended with a thick haze, we hauled our wind to the
+N.N.W., and handed the fore top-sail.
+
+<p>During the whole of the 24th it rained incessantly, and the wind still blew
+a storm; a heavy sea rolled down on us from the north, and in the afternoon
+we had violent flashes of lightning from the same quarter. We continued
+upon a wind to the N.N.W. till nine o'clock, when we tacked, and stood to
+the S.S.E., till four in the morning of the 25th, and then wore. During the
+night there was an eclipse of the moon, but the rain prevented our making
+any observation; unfortunately, at the time of the greatest darkness, a
+seaman, in stowing the main-top-mast stay-sail, fell overboard, but laying
+hold of a rope, which providentially was hanging out of the fore-chains
+into the water, and the ship being quickly brought in the wind, he was got
+on board without any other hurt than a slight bruise on his shoulder. At
+eight, the weather clearing, we bore away but the wind blew still so
+strong, that we carried no other sail than the fore-sail, and the main-top-
+sail close-reefed. About this time we saw a land-bird resembling a thrush,
+and a sugar-cane; at noon, the latitude, by observation, was 21° 35', and
+longitude 121° 35'.
+
+<p>As our situation in longitude was now to the west of the Bashee, according
+to Mr Dalrymple's map, I perceived that Captain Gore was governed, in the
+course he was steering, by the opinions of Commodore Byron and Captain
+Wallis, with whom he sailed when they passed these islands. The former
+placing it near four degrees to the westward, or in longitude 118° 15'. In
+consequence of this opinion, at two, we stood to the southward, with a view
+of getting into the same parallel of latitude with the islands, before we
+ran down our longitude. At six, we were nearly in that situation, and
+consequently ought to have been in sight of land, according to Mr Wallis's
+account, who places the Bashees near three degrees more to the eastward
+than Mr Byron. The gale, at this time, had not in the least abated; and
+Captain Gore, still conceiving that the islands must undoubtedly lie to the
+westward, brought the ships to, with their heads to the N.W., under the
+fore-sail and balanced mizen.
+
+<p>At six in the morning of the 26th, the wind having considerably abated, we
+bore away west; set the top-sails, and let out the reefs. At noon, the
+latitude, by observation, was 21° 12', and longitude 120° 25'. We saw, this
+day, a flock of ducks, and many tropic-birds, also dolphins and porpoises,
+and still continued to pass several pumice-stones. We spent the night upon
+our tacks, and, at six in the morning of the 27th, again bore away west in
+search of the Bashees.
+
+<p>I now began to be a little apprehensive, lest, in searching for those
+islands, we should get so much to the southward as to be obliged to pass to
+leeward of the Pratas. In this case, it might have been exceedingly
+difficult for such bad-sailing ships as ours to fetch Macao, particularly
+should the wind continue to blow, as it now did, from the N.N.E. and N. As
+I had some doubts whether Mr Dalrymple's charts were on board the
+Resolution, I made sail and hailed her; and having acquainted Captain Gore
+with the position of these shoals, and my apprehensions of being driven to
+the southward, he informed me that he should continue on his course for the
+day, as he was still in hopes of finding Admiral Byron's longitude right;
+and therefore ordered me to spread a few miles to the south.
+
+<p>At noon, the weather became hazy; the latitude, by reckoning, was 21° 2',
+and longitude 118° 30'; and at six, having got to the westward of the
+Bashees, by Mr Byron's account, Captain Gore hauled his wind to the N.W.,
+under an easy sail, the wind blowing very strong, and there being every
+appearance of a dirty boisterous night. At four in the morning of the 28th,
+we saw the Resolution, then half a mile ahead of us, wear, and immediately
+perceived breakers close under our lee. At day-light, we saw the island of
+Prata; and at half past six we wore again, and stood toward the shoal, and
+finding we could not weather it, bore away, and ran to leeward. As we
+passed the south side, within a mile of the reef, we observed two
+remarkable patches on the edge of the breakers, that looked like wrecks. At
+noon, the latitude, found by double altitudes, was 20° 39', longitude 116°
+45'. The island bore N. 3/4 E., distant three or four leagues. On the
+south-west side of the reef, and near the south end of the island, we
+thought we saw, from the mast-head, openings in the reef, which promised
+safe anchorage.
+
+<p>The Prata shoal is of a considerable extent, being six leagues from north
+to south, and stretching three or four leagues to the eastward of the
+island; its limit to the westward we were not in a situation to determine.
+The northeast extremity we place in latitude 20° 58', and longitude 117°;
+and the south-west in latitude 20° 45', and longitude 116° 44'.
+
+<p>For the remaining part of the day we carried a press of sail, and kept the
+wind, which was N.E. by N., in order to secure our passage to Macao. It was
+fortunate, that toward evening the wind favoured us, by changing two points
+more to the east; for had the wind and weather continued the same as during
+the preceding week, I doubt whether we could have fetched that port, in
+which case, we must have borne away for Batavia; a place we all dreaded
+exceedingly, from the sad havoc the unhealthiness of the climate had made
+in the crews of the former ships that had been out on discovery, and had
+touched there.
+
+<p>In the forenoon of the 29th, we passed several Chinese fishing-boats, who
+eyed us with great indifference; They fish with a large dredge-net, shaped
+like a hollow cone, having a flat iron rim fixed to the lower part of its
+mouth. The net is made fast with cords to the head and stern of the boat,
+which being left to drive with the wind, draws the net after it with the
+iron part dragging along the bottom. We were sorry to find the sea covered
+with the wrecks of boats that had been lost, as we conjectured, in the late
+boisterous weather. At-noon, we were in latitude, by observation, 22° 1',
+having run one hundred and ten miles upon a north-west course since the
+preceding noon. Being now nearly in the latitude of the Lema Islands, we
+bore away W. by N., and after running twenty-two miles, saw one of them
+nine or ten leagues to the westward. At six, the extremes of the islands in
+sight bore N.N.W. 1/2 W., and W.N.W. 1/2 W.; distant from the nearest four
+or five leagues; the depth of water twenty-two fathoms, over a soft muddy
+bottom. We now shortened sail, and kept upon our tacks for the night. By Mr
+Bayly's time-keeper, the Grand Lema bore from the Prata Island, N. 60° W.,
+one hundred and fifty-three miles; and by our run, N. 57° W., one hundred
+and forty-six miles.
+
+<p>In the morning of the 30th, we ran along the Lema Isles, which, like all
+the other islands on this coast, are without wood, and, as far as we could
+observe, without cultivation. At seven o'clock, we had precisely the same
+view of these islands, as is represented in a plate of Lord Anson's voyage.
+At nine o'clock, a Chinese boat, which had been before with the Resolution,
+came alongside, and wanted to put on board us a pilot, which, however, we
+declined, as it was our business to follow our consort. We soon after
+passed the rock marked R in Lord Anson's plate; but, instead of hauling up
+to the northward of the Grand Ladrone Island, as was done in the Centurion,
+we proceeded to leeward.
+
+<p>It is hardly necessary to caution the mariner not to take this course, as
+the danger is sufficiently obvious; for should the wind blow strong, and
+the current set with it, it will be extremely difficult to fetch Macao.
+Indeed, we might, with great safety, by the direction of Mr Dalrymple's
+map, have gone either entirely to the north of the Lema Isles, or between
+them, and made the wind fair for Macao. Our fears of missing this port, and
+being forced to Batavia, added to the strong and eager desires of hearing
+news from Europe, made us rejoice to see the Resolution soon after fire a
+gun, and hoist her colours as a signal for a pilot. On repeating the
+signal, we saw an excellent race between four Chinese boats; and Captain
+Gore, having engaged with the man who arrived first, to carry the ship to
+the Typa, for thirty dollars, sent me word, that, as we could easily
+follow, that expence might be saved to us. Soon after, a second pilot
+getting on board the Resolution, insisted on conducting the ship, and,
+without farther ceremony, laid hold of the wheel, and began to order the
+sails to be trimmed. This occasioned a violent dispute, which at last was
+compromised, by their agreeing to go shares in the money. At noon, the
+altitude, by observation, was 21° 57' N., and longitude 114° 2' E.; the
+Grand Ladrone Island extending from N.W. 1/2 N., to N.1/2 W., distant four
+miles. The land of which the bearings are here given, we conceived to be
+one island; but afterward found the western part to be the island marked Z
+in Mr Dalrymple's chart of part of the coast of China, &amp;c. which, at that
+time, we unfortunately had not on board.
+
+<p>In obedience to the instructions given to Captain Cook by the Board of
+Admiralty, it now became necessary to demand of the officers and men their
+journals, and what other papers they might have in their possession,
+relating to the history of our voyage. The execution of these orders seemed
+to require some delicacy, as well as firmness. I could not be ignorant,
+that the greatest part of our officers, and several of the seamen, had
+amused themselves with writing accounts of our proceedings for their own
+private satisfaction, or that of their friends, which they might be
+unwilling, in their present form, to have submitted to the inspection of
+strangers. On the other hand, I could not, consistently with the
+instructions we had received, leave in their custody papers, which, either
+from carelessness or design, might fall into the hands of printers, and
+give rise to spurious and imperfect accounts of the voyage, to the
+discredit of our labours, and perhaps to the prejudice of officers, who,
+though innocent, might be suspected of having been the authors of such
+publications. As soon, therefore, as I had assembled the ship's company on
+deck, I acquainted them with the orders we had received, and the reasons
+which, I thought, ought to induce them to yield a ready obedience. At the
+same time, I told them, that any papers which they were desirous not to
+have sent to the Admiralty, should be sealed up in their presence, and kept
+in my own custody, till the intentions of the Board, with regard to the
+publication of the history of the voyage, were fulfilled; after which, they
+should faithfully be restored back to them.
+
+<p>It is with the greatest satisfaction I can relate, that my proposals met
+with the approbation, and the cheerful compliance both of the officers and
+men; and I am persuaded, that every scrap of paper, containing any
+transactions relating to the voyage, were given up. Indeed, it is doing
+bare justice to the seamen of this ship to declare, that they were the most
+obedient and the best-disposed men I ever knew, though almost all of them
+were very young, and had never before served in a ship of war.
+
+<>p>SECTION IX.
+
+<p>Working up to Macao.--A Chinese Comprador.--Sent on Shore to visit the
+Portugueze Governor.--Effects of the Intelligence we received from
+Europe.--Anchor in the Typa.--Passage up to Canton.--Bocca Tygris.--
+Wampu.--Description of a Sampane.--Reception at the English Factory.--
+Instance of the suspicious Character of the Chinese.--Of their Mode of
+trading.--Of the City of Canton.--Its Size.--Population.--Number of
+Sampanes.--Military Force.--Of the Streets and Houses.--Visit to a
+Chinese.--Return to Macao.--Great Demand for the Sea-Otter Skins.--Plan of
+a Voyage for opening a Fur-Trade on the Western Coast of America, and
+prosecuting further Discoveries in the Neighbourhood of Japan.--Departure
+from Macao.--Price of Provisions in China.
+
+<p>We kept working to windward till six in the evening, when we came to
+anchor, by the direction of the Chinese pilot on board the Resolution, who
+imagined the tide was setting against us. In this, however, he was much
+deceived; as we found, upon making the experiment, that it set to the
+northward till ten o'clock. The next morning he fell into a similar
+mistake; for, at five, on the appearance of slack water, he gave orders to
+get under weigh; but the ignorance he had discovered, having put us on our
+guard, we chose to be convinced, by our own observations, before we
+weighed; and, on trying the tide, we found a strong under-tow, which
+obliged us to keep fast till eleven o'clock. From these circumstances, it
+appears that the tide had run down twelve hours.
+
+<p>During the afternoon, we kept standing on our tacks, between the island of
+Potoe, and the Grand Ladrone, having passed to the eastward of the former.
+At nine o'clock, the tide beginning to ebb, we again came to anchor in six
+fathoms water; the town of Macao bearing N.W., three leagues distant; and
+the island of Potoe, S. 1/2 W., two leagues distant. This island lies two
+leagues to the N.N.W.. of the island marked Z in Mr Dalrymple's chart,
+which we, at first, took to be part of the Grand Ladrone. It is small and
+rocky; and, off the west end, there is said to be foul ground, though we
+passed near it without perceiving any.
+
+<p>In the forenoon of the 2d, one of the Chinese contractors, who are called
+<i>compradors</i>, went on board the Resolution, and sold to Captain Gore two
+hundred pounds weight of beef, together with a considerable quantity of
+greens, oranges, and eggs. A proportionable share of these articles was
+sent to the Discovery; and an agreement made with the man to furnish us
+with a daily supply, for which, however, he insisted on being paid before-
+hand.
+
+<p>Our pilot, pretending he could carry the ships no farther, Captain Gore was
+obliged to discharge him, and we were left to our own guidance.
+
+<p>At two in the afternoon, the tide flowing, we weighed, and worked to
+windward; and at seven, anchored in three and a half fathoms of water,
+Macao bearing W., three miles-distant. This situation was, indeed, very
+ineligible, being exposed to the N.E., and having shoal water, not more
+than two fathoms and a half deep, to leeward; but as no nautical
+description is given, in Lord Anson's voyage, of the harbour in which the
+Centurion anchored, and Mr Dalrymple's general map, which was the only one
+on board, was on too small a scale to serve for our direction, the ships
+were obliged to remain there all night.
+
+<p>In the evening, Captain Gore sent me on shore to visit the Portugueze
+governor, and to request his assistance in procuring refreshments for our
+crews, which he thought might be done on more reasonable terms than the
+<i>comprador</i> would undertake to furnish them. At the same time, I took a
+list of the naval stores, of which both vessels were greatly in want, with
+an intention of proceeding immediately to Canton, and applying to the
+servants of the East India Company, who were, at that time, resident there.
+On my arrival at the citadel, the fort-major informed me, that the governor
+was sick, and not able to see company; but that we might be assured of
+receiving every assistance in their power. This, however, I understood
+would be very inconsiderable, as they were entirely dependent on the
+Chinese, even for their daily subsistence. Indeed, the answer returned to
+the first request I made, gave me a sufficient proof of the fallen state of
+the Portugueze power; for, on my acquainting the major with my desire of
+proceeding immediately to Canton, he told me, that they could not venture
+to furnish me with a boat, till leave was obtained from the <i>Hoppo</i>, or
+officer of the customs; and that the application for this purpose must be
+made to the Chinese government at Canton.
+
+<p>The mortification I felt at meeting with this unexpected delay, could only
+be equalled by the extreme impatience with which we had so long waited for
+an opportunity of receiving intelligence from Europe. It often happens,
+that in the eager pursuit of an object, we overlook the easiest and most
+obvious means of attaining it. This was actually my case at present; for I
+was returning under great dejection to the ship, when the Portugueze
+officer, who attended me, asked me, if I did not mean to visit the English
+gentlemen at Macao. I need not add with what transport I received the
+information this question conveyed to me; nor the anxious hopes and fears,
+the conflict between curiosity and apprehension, which passed in my mind,
+as we walked toward the house of one of our countrymen.
+
+<p>In this state of agitation, it was not surprising, that our reception,
+though no way deficient in civility or kindness, should appear cold and
+formal. In our enquiries, as far as they related to objects of private
+concern, we met, as was indeed, to be expected, with little or no
+satisfaction; but the events of a public nature, which had happened since
+our departure, and now, for the first time, burst all at once upon us,
+overwhelmed every other feeling, and left us, for some time, almost without
+the power of reflection. For several days we continued questioning each
+other about the truth of what we had heard, as if desirous of seeking, in
+doubt and suspense, for that relief and consolation, which the reality of
+our calamities appeared totally to exclude. These sensations were succeeded
+by the most poignant regret at finding ourselves cut off, at such a
+distance, from the scene where, we imagined, the fate of fleets and armies
+was every moment deciding.[104]
+
+<blockquote>[104] It is scarcely necessary to inform any reader that Captain King here
+alludes to the American war, in which first the French and then the
+Spaniards took part against Great Britain. The passage is certainly a
+very striking evidence of that enthusiasm which animates our gallant
+seamen in all corners of the globe, to feel and to fight for Old
+England; and perhaps to this spirit, as well as to his eminent
+professional abilities in other respects, we may ascribe Captain
+King's appointment, not long after his return home, to the command of
+the Resistance man of war, sent on service to the West Indies.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The intelligence we had just received of the state of affairs in Europe,
+made us the more exceedingly anxious to hasten our departure as much as
+possible; and I, therefore, renewed my attempt to procure a passage to
+Canton, but without effect. The difficulty arising from the established
+policy of the country, I was now told, would probably be much increased by
+an incident that had happened a few weeks before our arrival. Captain
+Panton, in the Seahorse, a ship of war of twenty-four guns, had been sent
+from Madras, to urge the payment of a debt owing by the Chinese merchants
+of Canton to private British subjects in the East Indies and Europe, which,
+including the principal and compound interest, amounted, I understood, to
+near a million sterling. For this purpose, he had orders to insist on an
+audience with the Viceroy of Canton, which, after some delay, and not
+without recourse being had to threats, was, at length, obtained.
+
+<p>The answer he received, on the subject of his mission, was fair and
+satisfactory; but, immediately after his departure, an edict was stuck up
+on the houses of the Europeans, and in the public places of the city,
+forbidding all foreigners, on any pretence, to lend money to the subjects
+of the emperor.
+
+<p>This measure had occasioned very serious alarms at Canton. The Chinese
+merchants, who had incurred the debt contrary to the commercial laws of
+their own country, and denied, in part, the justice of the demand, were
+afraid that intelligence of this would be carried to Pekin; and that the
+emperor, who had the character of a just and rigid prince, might punish
+them with the loss of their fortunes, if not of their lives. On the other
+hand, the select committee, to whom the cause of the claimants was strongly
+recommended by the presidency of Madras, were extremely apprehensive, lest
+they should embroil themselves with the Chinese government at Canton; and,
+by that means, bring, perhaps, irreparable mischief on the Company's
+affairs in China. For I was further informed, that the <i>Mandarins</i> were
+always ready to take occasion, even on the slightest grounds, to put a stop
+to their trading; and that it was often with great difficulty, and never
+without certain expence, that they could get such restraints taken off.
+These impositions were daily increasing; and, indeed, found it a prevailing
+opinion, in all the European factories, that they should soon be reduced
+either to quit the commerce of that country, or to bear the same
+indignities to which the Dutch are subjected in Japan.
+
+<p>The arrival of the Resolution and Discovery, at such a time, could not fail
+of occasioning fresh alarms; and, therefore, finding there was no
+probability of my proceeding to Canton, I dispatched a letter to the
+English supercargoes, to acquaint them with the cause of our putting into
+the Typa, to request their assistance in procuring me a passport, and in
+forwarding the stores we wanted, of which I sent them a list, as
+expeditiously as possible.
+
+<p>The next morning I was accompanied on board by our countryman, who pointing
+out to us the situation of the Typa, we weighed at half past six, and stood
+toward it; but the wind failing, we came to, at eight, in three and a half
+fathoms water; Macao bearing W.N.W., three miles distant; the Grand Ladrone
+S.E. by S. The Resolution here saluted the Portugueze fort with eleven
+guns, which were returned by the same number. Early on the 4th, we again
+weighed, and stood into the Typa, and moored with the stream-anchor and
+cable to the westward.
+
+<p>The <i>Comprador</i>, whom we at first engaged with, having disappeared with a
+small sum of money, which had been given him to purchase provisions, we
+contracted with another, who continued to supply both ships, during our
+whole stay. This was done secretly, and in the night-time, under pretence,
+that it was contrary to the regulations of the port; but we suspected all
+this caution to have been used with a view either of enhancing the price of
+the articles he furnished, or of securing to himself the profits of his
+employment, without being obliged to share them with the <i>Mandarins</i>.
+
+<p>On the 9th, Captain Gore received an answer from the committee of the
+English supercargoes at Canton, in which they assured him, that their best
+endeavours should be used to procure the supplies we stood in need of, as
+expeditiously as possible; and that a passport should be sent for one of
+his officers, hoping at the same time, that we were sufficiently acquainted
+with the character of the Chinese government, to attribute any delays, that
+might unavoidably happen, to their true cause.
+
+<p>The day following, an English merchant, from one of our settlements in the
+East Indies, applied to Captain Gore for the assistance of a few hands to
+navigate a vessel he had purchased at Macao, up to Canton. Captain Gore
+judging this a good opportunity for me to proceed to that place, gave
+orders that I should take along with me my second lieutenant, the
+lieutenant of marines, and ten seamen. Though this was not precisely the
+mode in which I could have wished to visit Canton, yet as it was very
+uncertain when the passport might arrive, and my presence might contribute
+materially to the expediting of our supplies, I did not hesitate to put
+myself on board, having left orders with Mr Williamson, to get the
+Discovery ready for sea as soon as possible, and to make such additions and
+alterations in her upper works, as might contribute to make her more
+defensible. That the series of our astronomical observations might suffer
+no interruption by my absence, I entrusted the care of continuing them to
+Mr Trevenen, in whose abilities and diligence I could repose an entire
+confidence.
+
+<p>We left the harbour of Macao on the 11th of December, and sailing round the
+south-eastern extremity of the island, we steered to the northward,
+leaving, as we passed along, Lantao, Lintin, and several smaller islands,
+to the right. All these islands, as well as that of Macao, which lie to the
+left, are entirely without wood; the land is high and barren, and
+uninhabited, except occasionally by fishermen. As we approached the Bocca
+Tygris, which is thirteen leagues from Macao, the Chinese coast appears to
+the eastward in steep white cliffs; the two forts, commanding the mouth of
+the river, are exactly in the same state as when Lord Anson was there; that
+on the left is a fine old castle, surrounded by a grove of trees, and has
+an agreeable romantic appearance.
+
+<p>We were here visited by an officer of the customs; on which occasion the
+owner of the vessel, being apprehensive that, if we were discovered on
+board, it would occasion some alarm, and might be attended with
+disagreeable consequences, begged us to retire into the cabin below.
+
+<p>The breadth of the river above these forts is variable, the banks being low
+and flat, and subject to be overflowed by the tide to a great extent. The
+ground on each side is level and laid out in rice-fields; but as we
+advanced, it rose gradually into hills of considerable declivity, the sides
+of which are cut into terraces, and planted with sweet potatoes, sugar-
+canes, yams, plantains, and the cotton-tree. We saw many lofty <i>pagodas</i>,
+scattered over the country, and several towns at a distance, some of which
+appeared to be of a considerable size.
+
+<p>We did not arrive at Wampû, which is only nine leagues from the Bocca
+Tygris, till the 18th, our progress having been retarded by contrary winds,
+and the lightness of the vessel. Wampû is a small Chinese town, off which
+the ships of the different nations, who trade here, lie, in order to take
+in their lading. The river, higher up, is said by M. Sonnerat not to be
+deep enough to admit heavy-laden vessels, even if the policy of the Chinese
+had suffered the Europeans to navigate them up to Canton; but this
+circumstance I cannot take upon me to decide on, as no stranger, I believe,
+has been permitted to inform himself with certainty of the truth. The small
+islands, that lie opposite to the town are allotted to the several
+factories, who have built warehouses for the reception of the merchandise
+that is brought down from Canton.
+
+<p>From Wampû, I immediately proceeded in a <i>sampane</i>, or Chinese boat, to
+Canton, which is about two leagues and a half higher up the river. These
+boats are the neatest and most convenient for passengers I ever saw. They
+are of various sizes, almost flat at the bottom, very broad upon the beam,
+and narrow at the head and stern, which are raised and ornamented; the
+middle, where we sat, was arched over with a roof of bamboo, which may be
+raised or lowered at pleasure; in the sides were small windows with
+shutters, and the apartment was furnished with handsome mats, chairs, and
+tables. In the stern was placed a small waxen idol, in a case of gilt
+leather, before which stood a pot, containing lighted tapers made of dry
+chips, or matches, and gum. The hire of this boat was a Spanish dollar.
+
+<p>I reached Canton a little after it was dark, and landed at the English
+factory, where, though my arrival was very unexpected, I was received with
+every mark of attention and civility. The select committee, at this time,
+consisted of Mr Fitzhugh, the president, Mr Bevan and Mr Rapier. They
+immediately gave me an account of such stores as the India ships were able
+to afford us; and though I have not the smallest doubt, that the commanders
+were desirous of assisting us with every thing they could spare,
+consistently with a regard to their own safety, and the interest of their
+employers, yet it was a great disappointment to me to find in their list
+scarcely any articles of cordage or canvass, of both which we stood
+principally in need. It was, however, some consolation to understand, that
+the stores were in readiness for shipping, and that the provisions we
+required might be had at a day's notice. Wishing, therefore, to make my
+stay here as short as possible, I requested the gentlemen to procure junks
+or boats for me the next day, with an intention of leaving Canton the
+following one; but I was soon informed, that a business of that kind was
+not to be transacted so rapidly in this country; that leave must be first
+procured from the viceroy; that the <i>Hoppo</i>, or principal officer of the
+customs, must be applied to for <i>chops</i>, or permits; and that these favours
+were not granted without mature deliberation: in short, that patience was
+an indispensable virtue in China; and that they hoped to have the pleasure
+of making the factory agreeable to me, for a few days longer than I seemed
+willing to favour them with my company.
+
+<p>Though I was not much disposed to relish this compliment, yet I could not
+help being diverted with an incident that occurred very opportunely to
+convince me of the truth of their representations, and of the suspicious
+character of the Chinese. The reader will recollect, that it was now about
+fifteen days since Captain Gore had written to the factory, to desire their
+assistance in procuring leave for one of his officers to pass to Canton. In
+consequence of this application, they had engaged one of the principal
+Chinese merchants of the place, to interest himself in our favour, and to
+solicit the business with the viceroy. This person came to visit the
+president, whilst we were talking on the subject, and with great
+satisfaction and complacency in his countenance acquainted him, that he had
+at last succeeded in his applications, and that a passport for one of the
+officers of the <i>Ladrone</i> ship (or pirate) would be ready in a few days.
+The president immediately told him not to give himself any farther trouble,
+as the officer, pointing to me, was already arrived. It is impossible to
+describe the terror which seized the old man on hearing this intelligence.
+His head sunk upon his breast, and the sofa on which he was sitting shook,
+from the violence of his agitation. Whether the <i>Ladrone</i> ship was the
+object of his apprehensions, or his own government, I could not discover;
+but after continuing in this deplorable state a few minutes, Mr Bevan bade
+him not despair, and recounted to him the manner in which I had passed from
+Macao, the reasons of my journey to Canton, and my wishes to leave it as
+soon as possible. This last circumstance seemed particularly agreeable to
+him, and gave me hopes, that I should find him equally disposed to hasten
+my departure; and yet, as soon as he had recovered the courage to speak, he
+began to recount the unavoidable delays that would occur in my business,
+the difficulty of gaining admittance to the viceroy, the jealousies and
+suspicions of the <i>Mandarins</i>, respecting our real designs, which had
+risen, he said, to an extraordinary height, from the strange account we had
+given of ourselves.
+
+<p>After waiting several days, with great impatience, for the event of our
+application, without understanding that the matter was at all advanced
+toward a conclusion, I applied to the commander of an English country ship,
+who was to sail on the 25th, and who offered to take the men and stores on
+board, and to lie-to, if the weather should permit, off Macao, till we
+could send boats to take them out of his ship. At the same time he apprised
+me of the danger there might be of his being driven with them out to sea.
+Whilst I was doubting what measures to pursue, the commander of another
+country ship brought me a letter from Captain Gore, in which he acquainted
+me, that he had engaged him to bring us down from Canton, and to deliver
+the stores we had procured, at his own risk, in the Typa. All our
+difficulties being thus removed, I had leisure to attend to the purchase of
+our provisions and stores, which was completed on the 26th; and the day
+following, the whole stock was sent on board.
+
+<p>As Canton was likely to be the most advantageous market for furs, I was
+desired by Captain Gore to carry with me about twenty sea-otters' skins,
+chiefly the property of our deceased commanders, and to dispose of them at
+the best price I could procure; a commission which gave me an opportunity
+of becoming a little acquainted with the genius of the Chinese for trade.
+Having acquainted some of the English supercargoes with these
+circumstances, I desired them to recommend me to some Chinese merchant of
+credit and reputation, who would at once offer me a fair and reasonable
+price. I was accordingly directed to a member of the <i>Hong</i>; a society of
+the principal merchants of the place; who being fully informed of the
+nature of the business, appeared sensible of the delicacy of my situation;
+assured me I might depend on his integrity; and that, in a case of this
+sort, he should consider himself merely as an agent, without looking for
+any profit to himself. Having laid my goods before him, he examined them
+with great care, over and over again, and at last told me, that he could
+not venture to offer more than three hundred dollars for them. As I knew,
+from the price our skins had sold for in Kamtschatka, that he had not
+offered me one-half their value, I found myself under the necessity of
+driving a bargain. In my turn, I therefore demanded one thousand; my
+Chinese then advanced to five hundred; then offered me a private present of
+tea and porcelain, amounting to one hundred more; then the same sum in
+money; and, lastly, rose to seven hundred dollars, on which I fell to nine
+hundred. Here, each side declaring he would not recede, we parted; but the
+Chinese soon returned with a list of India goods, which he now proposed I
+should take in exchange, and which, I was afterwards told, would have
+amounted in value, if honestly delivered, to double the sum he had before
+offered. Finding I did not choose to deal in this mode, he proposed as his
+ultimatum, that we should divide the difference, which, being tired of the
+contest, I consented to, and received the eight hundred dollars.
+
+<p>The ill health, which at this time I laboured under, left me little reason
+to lament the very narrow limits within which the policy of the Chinese
+obliges every European at Canton to confine his curiosity. I should
+otherwise have fell exceedingly tantalized with living under the walls of
+so great a city, full of objects of novelty, without being able to enter
+it. The accounts given on this place, by Peres le Comte and Du Halde, are
+in every one's hand. These authors have lately been accused of great
+exaggeration by M. Sonnerat; for which reason, the following observations,
+collected from the information with which I have been obligingly furnished
+by several English gentlemen, who were a long time resident at Canton, may
+not be unacceptable to the public.
+
+<p>Canton, including the old and new town, and the suburbs, is about ten miles
+in circuit. With respect to its population, if one may judge of the whole,
+from what is seen in the suburbs, I should conceive it to fall considerably
+short of an European town of the same magnitude. Le Comte estimated the
+number of inhabitants at one million five hundred thousand; Du Halde at one
+million; and M. Sonnerat says he has ascertained them to be no more than
+seventy-five thousand;[105] but as this gentleman has not favoured us with
+the grounds on which his calculation was founded, and, besides, appears as
+desirous of depreciating every thing that relates to the Chinese, as the
+Jesuits may be of magnifying, his opinion certainly admits of some doubt.
+The following circumstances may perhaps lead the reader to form a judgment
+with tolerable accuracy on this subject.
+
+<blockquote>[105] J'ai <i>verifié</i> moi-même, avec plusieurs Chinois, la population
+de Canton, de la ville de Tartare, et de celie de Battaux,
+&amp;c.--<i>Voyage aux Indes, &amp;c</i>. par M. Sonnerat, tom. ii. p. 14.</blockquote>
+
+<p>A Chinese house, undoubtedly, occupies more space than is usually taken up
+by houses in Europe; but the proportion, suggested by M. Sonnerat, of four
+or five to one, certainly goes much beyond the truth. To this should be
+added, that a great many houses, in the suburbs of Canton, are occupied for
+commercial purposes only, by merchants and rich tradesmen, whose families
+live entirely within the city. On the other hand, a Chinese family appears
+to consist, on an average, of more persons than an European. A <i>Mandarin</i>,
+according to his rank and substance, has from five to twenty wives. A
+merchant, from three to five. One of this class at Canton, had, indeed,
+twenty-five wives, and thirty-six children; but this was mentioned to me as
+a very extraordinary instance. An opulent tradesman has usually two; and
+the lower class of people very rarely more than one. Their servants are at
+least double in number to those employed by persons of the same condition
+in Europe. If, then, we suppose a Chinese family one-third larger, and an
+European house two-thirds less than each other, a Chinese city will contain
+only half the number of inhabitants contained in an European town of the
+same size. According to these <i>data</i>, the city and suburbs of Canton may
+probably contain about one hundred and fifty thousand.
+
+<p>With respect to the number of inhabited <i>sampanes</i>, I found different
+opinions were entertained; but none placing them lower than forty thousand.
+They are moored in rows close to each other, with a narrow passage, at
+intervals, for the boats to pass up and down the river. As the Tygris, at
+Canton, is somewhat wider than the Thames at London; and the whole river is
+covered in this manner for the extent of at least a mile, this account of
+their number does not appear to me in the least exaggerated; and if it be
+allowed, the number of inhabitants in the sampanes alone (for each of them
+contains one family) must amount to nearly three times the number supposed
+by M. Sonnerat to be in the whole city.
+
+<p>The military force of the province, of which Canton is the capital, amounts
+to fifty thousand men. It is said, that twenty thousand are stationed in
+and about the city; and, as a proof of this, I was assured, that, on the
+occasion of some disturbance that had happened at Canton, thirty thousand
+men were drawn together within the space of a few hours.
+
+<p>The streets are long, and most of them narrow and irregular, but well paved
+with large stones, and, for the most part, kept exceedingly clean. The
+houses are built of brick, one story high, having generally two or three
+courts backward, in which are the warehouses for merchandise, and, in the
+houses within the city, the apartments for the women. A very few of the
+meanest sort are built of wood.
+
+<p>The houses belonging to the European factors are built on an handsome quay,
+with a regular facade of two stories toward the river, and disposed within,
+partly after the European, and partly after the Chinese manner. Adjoining
+to these are a number of houses belonging to the Chinese, and hired out to
+the commanders of ships and merchants, who make an occasional stay. As no
+European is allowed to bring his wife to Canton, the English supercargoes
+live together at a common table, which is kept by the company, and have
+each a separate apartment, consisting of three or four rooms. The time of
+their residence seldom exceeds eight months annually; and as they are
+pretty constantly employed, during that time, in the service of the
+company, they may submit with the less regret to the restraints they are
+kept under. They very rarely pay any visits within the walls of Canton,
+except on public occasions. Indeed, nothing gave me so unfavourable an idea
+of the character of the Chinese, as to find, that, amongst so many persons
+of liberal minds and amiable manners, some of whom have resided in that
+country for near fifteen years together, they have never formed any
+friendship or social connection. As soon as the last ship quits Wampû, they
+are all obliged to retire to Macao; but, as a proof of the excellent police
+of the country, they leave all the money they possess in specie behind
+them, which, I was told, sometimes amounted to one hundred thousand pounds
+sterling, and for which they had no other security than the seals of the
+merchants of the hong, the viceroy, and mandarins.
+
+<p>During my stay at Canton, I was carried, by one of the English gentlemen,
+to visit a person of the first consequence in the place. We were received
+in a long room or gallery, at the upper end of which stood a table, with a
+large chair behind it, and a row of chairs extending from it on each side
+down the room. Being previously instructed, that the point of civility
+consisted in remaining as long unseated as possible, I readily acquitted
+myself of this piece of etiquette; after which we were entertained with tea
+and some preserved and fresh fruits. Our host was very fat, with a heavy
+dull countenance, and of great gravity in his deportment. He spoke a little
+broken English and Portuguese; and, after we had taken our refreshment, he
+carried us about his house and garden; and having shewed us all the
+improvements he was making, we took our leave.
+
+<p>Having procured an account of the price of provisions at Canton, as settled
+for the year 1780, which the reader will find at the end of this section, I
+have only to observe, that the different articles are supposed to be the
+best of the kind; and that the natives purchase the same for nearly one-
+third less than the price, which, in the list, is fixed only for strangers.
+
+<p>I had hitherto intended, as well to avoid the trouble and delay of applying
+for passports, as to save the unnecessary expence of hiring a sampane,
+which, I understood, amounted at least to twelve pounds sterling, to go
+along with the stores to Macao, in the country merchant's ship I have
+before mentioned; but having received an invitation from two English
+gentlemen, who had obtained passports for four, I accepted, along with Mr
+Philips, their offer of places in a Chinese boat, and left Mr Lannyon to
+take care of the men and stores, which were to sail the next day. In the
+evening of the 26th, I took my leave of the supercargoes, having thanked
+them for their many obliging favours; amongst which I must not forget to
+mention an handsome present of tea for the use of the ships' companies, and
+a large collection of English periodical publications. The latter we found
+a valuable acquisition; as they both served to amuse our impatience, during
+our tedious voyage home, and enabled us to return not total strangers to
+what had been transacting in our native country. At one o'clock the next
+morning we left Canton, and arrived at Macao about the same hour the day
+following, having passed down a channel, which lies to the westward of that
+by which we had come up.
+
+<p>During our absence, a brisk trade had been carrying on with the Chinese for
+the sea-otter skins, which had every day been rising in their value. One of
+our seamen sold his stock alone for eight hundred dollars; and a few prime
+skins, which were clean, and had been well preserved, were sold for one
+hundred and twenty each. The whole amount of the value, in specie and
+goods, that was got for the furs, in both ships, I am confident, did not
+fall short of two thousand pounds sterling; and it was generally supposed,
+that at least two-thirds of the quantity we had originally got from the
+Americans, were spoiled and worn out, or had been given away, and otherwise
+disposed of in Kamtschatka. When, in addition to these facts, it is
+remembered, that the furs were at first collected without our having any
+idea of their real value; that the greatest part had been worn by the
+Indians, from whom we purchased them; that they were afterward preserved
+with little care, and frequently used for bed-clothes, and other purposes,
+during our cruise to the north; and that, probably, we had never got the
+full-value for them in China; the advantages that might be derived from a
+voyage to that part of the American coast, undertaken with commercial
+views, appear to me of a degree of importance sufficient to call for the
+attention of the public.
+
+<p>The rage with which our seamen were possessed to return to Cook's river,
+and by another cargo of skins to make their fortunes, at one time was not
+far short of mutiny; and I must own, I could not help indulging myself in a
+project, which the disappointment we had suffered, in being obliged to
+leave the Japanese archipelago, and the northern coast of China,
+unexplored, first suggested; and, by what I conceived, that object might
+still be happily accomplished, through means of the East India Company, not
+only without expence, but even with the prospect of very considerable
+advantages. Though the situation of affairs at home, or perhaps greater
+difficulties in the execution of my scheme than I had foreseen, have
+hitherto prevented its being carried into effect, yet, as I find the plan
+in my journal, and still retain my partiality for it, I hope it will not be
+entirely foreign to the nature of this work, if I beg leave to insert it
+here.
+
+<p>I proposed then, that the company's China ships should carry an additional
+complement of men each, making in all one hundred. Two vessels, one of two
+hundred, and the other of one hundred and fifty tons, might, I was told,
+with, proper notice, be readily purchased at Canton; and, as victualling is
+not dearer there than in Europe, I calculate, that they might be completely
+fitted out for sea, with a year's pay and provision, for six thousand
+pounds, including the purchase. The expence of the necessary articles for
+barter is scarcely worth mentioning. I would, by all means, recommend, that
+each ship should have five tons of unwrought iron, a forge, and an expert
+smith, with a journeyman and apprentice, who might be ready to forge such
+tools as it should appear the Indians were most desirous of. For, though
+six of the finest skins purchased by us, were got for a dozen large green
+glass beads, yet it is well known, that the fancy of these people for
+articles of ornament is exceedingly capricious; and that iron is the only
+sure commodity for their market. To this might be added a few gross of
+large-pointed case-knives, some bales of coarse woollen cloth, (linen they
+would not accept of from us,) and a barrel or two of copper and glass
+trinkets.
+
+<p>I have here proposed two ships, not only for the greater security of the
+expedition, but because I think single ships ought never to be sent out on
+discoveries. For where risks are to be run, and doubtful and hazardous
+experiments tried, it cannot be expected that single ships should venture
+so far, as where there is some security provided against untoward accident.
+
+<p>The vessels being now ready for sea, will sail with the first south-
+westerly monsoon, which generally sets in about the beginning of April.
+With this wind they will steer to the northward, along the coast of China,
+beginning a more accurate survey from the mouth of the river Kyana, or the
+Nankin River, in latitude 30°, which, I believe, is the utmost limit of
+this coast hitherto visited by European ships. As the extent of that deep
+gulf called Whang Hay, or the Yellow Sea, is at present unknown, it must be
+left to the discretion of the commander, to proceed up it as far as he may
+judge prudent; but he must be cautious not to entangle himself too far in
+it, lest he should want time for the prosecution of the remaining part of
+his enterprise. The same discretion must be used when he arrives in the
+Straits of Tessoi, with respect to the islands of Jeso, which, if the wind
+and weather be favourable, he will not lose the opportunity of exploring.
+
+<p>Having proceeded to the latitude of 51° 40', where he will make the
+southernmost point of the island of Sagaleen, beyond which the sea of
+Okotzk is sufficiently known, he will steer to the southward, probably in
+the beginning of June, and endeavour to fall in with the southernmost of
+the Kurile Islands. Ooroop, or Nadeschda, according to the accounts of the
+Russians, will furnish the ships with a good harbour, where they may wood
+and water, and take in such other refreshments as the place may afford.
+Toward the end of June, they will shape their course for the Shummagins,
+and from thence to Cook's River, purchasing, as they proceed, as many skins
+as they are able, without losing too much time, since they ought to steer
+again to the southward, and trace the coast with great accuracy from the
+latitude of 56° to 50°, the space from which we were driven out of sight of
+land by contrary winds. It should here be remarked, that I consider the
+purchase of skins, in this expedition, merely a secondary object, for
+defraying the expence; and it cannot be doubted, from our experience in the
+present voyage, that two hundred and fifty skins, worth one hundred dollars
+each, may be procured without any loss of time; especially as it is
+probable they will be met with along the coast to the southward of Cook's
+River.
+
+<p>Having spent three months on the coast of America, they will set out on
+their return to China early in the month of October, avoiding, in their
+route, as much as possible, the tracks of former navigators. I have now
+only to add, that if the fur trade should become a fixed object of Indian
+commerce, frequent opportunities will occur of completing whatever may be
+left unfinished, in the voyage of which I have here ventured to delineate
+the outlines.
+
+<p>The barter which had been carrying on with the Chinese for sea-otter skins,
+had produced a very whimsical change in the dress of all our crew. On our
+arrival in the Typa, nothing could exceed the ragged appearance both of the
+younger officers and seamen; for, as our voyage had already exceeded, by
+near a twelvemonth, the time it was at first imagined we should remain at
+sea, almost the whole of our original stock of European clothes had been
+long worn Out, or patched up with skins and the various manufactures we had
+met with in the course of our discoveries. These were now again mixed and
+eked out with the gaudiest silks and cottons of China.
+
+<p>On the 30th, Mr Lannyon arrived with the stores and provisions, which were
+immediately stowed, in due proportion, on board the two ships. The next
+day, agreeably to a bargain made by Captain Gore, I sent our sheet-anchor
+to the country ship, and received in return the guns, which she before rode
+by.
+
+<p>Whilst we lay in the Typa, I was shewn, in a garden belonging to an English
+gentleman at Macao, the rock, under which, as the tradition there goes, the
+poet Camoens used lo sit and compose his Lusiad. It is a lofty arch, of one
+solid stone, and forms the entrance of a grotto, dug out of the rising
+ground behind it. The rock is overshadowed by large spreading trees, and
+commands an extensive and magnificent view of the sea, and the interspersed
+islands.
+
+<p>On the 11th of January, two seamen, belonging to the Resolution, found
+means to run off with a six-oared cutter, and, notwithstanding diligent
+search was made both that and the following day, we were never able to
+learn any tidings of her. It was supposed, that these people had been
+seduced by the prevailing notion of making a fortune, by returning to the
+fur islands.
+
+<p>As we heard nothing, during our stay in the Typa, of the measurement of our
+ships, it may be concluded, that the point, so strongly contested by the
+Chinese, in Lord Anson's time, has, in consequence of his firmness and
+resolution, never since been insisted on.
+
+<p>The following nautical observations were made while we lay here:
+
+<pre>
+Harbour of Macao                lat.  22°  12'  0" north.
+                               long. 113   47   0  east.
+
+Anchoring-place in the          lat.  22    9  20  north.
+Typa                           long. 113   48  34  east.
+
+Mean dip of the north
+pole of the magnetic                  21    1   0
+needle
+
+Variation of the compass               0   19   0  west.
+
+
+On the full and change days it was high water in the Typa at 5^h 15^m, and
+in Macao harbour at 5^h 50^m. The greatest rise was six feet one inch. The
+flood appeared to come from the south-eastward; but we could not determine
+this point with certainty, on account of the great number of islands which
+lie off the mouth of the river of Canton.
+
+<i>Prices of Provisions at Canton</i>, 1780.
+
+                           £.  s.  d.
+Annas                      0   4   0       a score.
+Arrack                     0   0   8       per bottle.
+Butter                     0   2   0-4/5   per catty.[106]
+Beef, Canton               0   0   2-3/4
+Ditto, Macao               0   0   5-1/5
+Birds' nests               3   6   8
+Biscuit                    0   0   4
+Beache de Mar              0   2   0-4/5
+Calf                       1   6   9-3/5
+Caravances, dried          0   0   2-2/3
+Cabbage, Nankeen           0   0   4-4/5
+Curry stuff                0   4   4
+Coffee                     0   1   4       per catty.
+Cocoa-nuts                 0   0   4       each.
+Charcoal                   0   3   4       per pecul.
+Coxice                     0   1   4       per catty.
+Canton nuts                0   0   4
+Chesnuts                   0   0   2-2/5
+Cockles                    0   0   3-1/5
+Ducks                      0   0   5-1/5
+Ditto, wild                0   1   0-4/5
+Deers' sinews              0   2   1-3/5
+Eels                       0   0   6-2/5
+Eggs                       0   2   0       per hundred.
+Fish, common               0   0   3-1/5   per catty.
+Ditto, best                0   0   6-2/5
+Ditto salted, Nankeen      0   0   9-3/5
+Fruit                      0   0   1-3/5
+Ditto, Nankeen             0   2   0
+Frogs                      0   0   6-2/5
+Flour                      0   0   1-76/100
+Fowls, capons, &amp;c.         0   0   7-1/5
+Fish-maws                  0   2   1-3/5
+Geese                      0   0   6-2/5
+Greens                     0   0   1-3/4
+Grass                      0   0   2-2/5   per bundle.
+Grapes                     0   1   0-4/5   per catty.
+Ham                        0   1   2-2/5
+Hartshorn                  0   1   4
+Hogslard                   0   0   7-1/5
+Hog, alive                 0   0   4-3/4
+Kid, alive                 0   0   4-3/4
+Limes                      0   0   0-4/5   per catty.
+Litches, dried             0   0   2-2/5
+Locksoy                    0   0   6-2/5
+Lobchocks                  0   0   5-3/5
+Lamp-oil                   0   0   5-3/5
+Lamp-wick                  0   0   8
+Melons                     0   0   4-4/5   each.
+Milk                       0   0   1-1/4   per catty.
+Ditto, Macao               0   0   3-1/5
+Mustard seed               0   0   6-2/5
+Mushrooms, pickled         0   2   8
+Ditto, fresh               0   1   4
+Oysters                    0   3   4       per   pecul.
+Onions, dried              0   0   2-2/5   per catty.
+Pork                       0   0   7-1/7
+Pig                        0   0   5-3/5
+Paddy                      0   0   0-4/5
+Pepper                     0   1   0-4/5
+Pheasants                  0   5   4       each.
+Partridges                 0   0   9-1/5
+Pigeons                    0   0   5-1/5
+Pomegranates               0   0   2-2/5
+Quails                     0   0   1-3/5
+Rabbits                    0   1   4
+Rice                       0   0   2       per catty.
+Ditto, red                 0   0   2-2/5
+Ditto, coarse              0   0   1-1/5
+Ditto, Japan               0   0   8
+Raisins                    0   2   0
+Sheep                      3   6   8       each.
+Snipes                     0   0   1-1/2   per catty.
+Sturgeon                   0   4   9-3/5
+Ditto, small               0   2   4-4/5
+Sugar                      0   0   3-1/5
+Salt                       0   0   1-3/5
+Saltpetre                  0   2   1-3/5
+Soy                        0   0   1-3/5
+Spices                     0  16   8
+Sweetmeats                 0   0   6-2/5
+Sago                       0   0   3-1/5
+Sallad                     0   0   2-2/5
+Sharks' fins               0   2   1-3/5
+Samsui soy                 0   0   2-2/5
+Teal                       0   0   6-2/5   each.
+Turtle                     0   0   9-3/5   per catty.
+Tea                        0   2   0
+Turmerick                  0   0   2-2/5
+Tamarinds                  0   0   8
+Vinegar                    0   0   1-3/5
+Vermicelli                 0   0   3-1/5
+Wax-candles                0   3   0
+Walnuts                    0   0   4-4/5
+Wood                       0  1  4         per pecul.
+Water                      0  6  8         per 100 barrels.
+
+Rent of Poho Factory     400  0  0         per annum.
+     of Lunsoon          316 13  4
+Servant's rice             0  8  0         per month.
+Ditto wages                0 19  2-1/5     do. for resiants.
+
+                                   <i>Doll</i>.
+Servant's wages for the season     20
+Steward's wages                    80
+Butler's ditto                     80 per annum.
+
+<i>Prices of Labour</i>.
+
+A coolee, or porter        0   0   8     per day.
+A tailor                   0   0   5     and rice.
+A handicraftsman           0   0   8
+A common labourer, from 3d. to 5d.
+A woman's labour considerably cheaper.
+</pre>
+
+<blockquote>[106] A catty is 18 oz.--A pecul 100 catty.</blockquote>
+
+<p>SECTION X.
+
+<p>Leave the Typa.--Orders of the Court of France respecting Captain Cook.--
+Resolutions in consequence thereof.--Strike Soundings on the Macclesfield
+Banks.--Pass Pulo Sapata.--Steer for Pulo Condore.--Anchor at Pulo
+Condore.--Transactions during our Stay.--Journey to the principal Town.--
+Receive a Visit from a Mandarin.--Examine his Letters.--Refreshments to be
+procured.--Description, and present State of the Island.--Its produce.--An
+Assertion of M. Sonnerat refuted.--Astronomical and Nautical Observations.
+
+<p>
+On the 12th of January, 1780, at noon, we unmoored, and scaled the guns,
+which, on board my ship, now amounted to ten; so that, by means of four
+additional ports, we could, if occasion required, fight seven on a side. In
+like manner, the Resolution had increased the number of her guns from
+twelve to sixteen; and, in both ships, a stout barricade was carried round
+their upper works, and every other precaution taken to give our small force
+as respectable an appearance as possible.
+
+<p>We thought it our duty to provide ourselves with these means of defence,
+though we had some reason to believe that the generosity of our enemies
+had, in a great measure, rendered them superfluous. We were informed at
+Canton, that the public prints, which had arrived last from England, made
+mention of instructions having been found on board all the French ships of
+war, captured in Europe, directing their commanders, in case of falling in
+with the ships that sailed under the command of Captain Cook, to suffer
+them to proceed on their voyage without molestation. The same orders were
+also said to have been given by the American congress to the vessels
+employed in their service. As this intelligence was farther confirmed by
+the private letters of several of the supercargoes, Captain Gore thought
+himself bound, in return for the liberal exceptions made in our favour, to
+refrain from availing himself of any opportunities of capture which these
+seas might afford, and to preserve, throughout his voyage, the strictest
+neutrality.[107]
+
+<blockquote>[107] On this subject we are presented with a communication in the Biog.
+Brit., made on the authority and from the materials of Sir Joseph
+Banks. As that work is now probably in few hands, and as the
+information itself is extremely interesting, it would be injustice to
+the readers, in general, not to put them in possession of the facts of
+the case. But the writer, not wishing to "extenuate or set down aught
+in malice," prefers a fair copy of the entire passage, to any
+imperfect, and perhaps scarcely unprejudiced abstract of its contents.
+
+<p>"Not long after Captain Cook's death, an event occurred in Europe,
+which had a particular relation to the voyage of our Navigator, and
+which was so honourable to himself, and to the great nation from whom
+it proceeded, that it is no small pleasure to me to be able to lay the
+transaction somewhat at large before my readers. What I refer to is,
+the letter which was issued, on the 19th of March, 1779, by Monsieur
+Sartine, Secretary of the Marine Department at Paris, and sent to all
+the commanders of French ships. The rescript was as follows: 'Captain
+Cook, who sailed from Plymouth in July, 1776, on board the Resolution,
+in company with the Discovery, Captain Clerke, in order to make some
+discoveries on the coasts, islands, and seas of Japan and California,
+being on the point of returning to Europe; and such discoveries being
+of general utility to all nations, it is the king's pleasure, that
+Captain Cook shall be treated as a commander of a neutral and allied
+power, and that all captains of armed vessels, &amp;c. who may meet that
+famous Navigator, shall make him acquainted with the king's orders on
+this behalf; but, at the same time, let him know, that, on his part,
+he must refrain from all hostilities.' By the Marquis of Condorcet we
+are informed, that this measure originated in the liberal and
+enlightened mind of that excellent citizen and statesman, Monsieur
+Turgot. 'When war,' says the Marquis, 'was declared between France and
+England, M. Turgot saw how honourable it would be to the French
+nation, that the vessel of Captain Cook should be treated with respect
+at sea. He composed a memorial, in which he proved, that honour,
+reason, and even interest, dictated this act of respect for humanity;
+and it was in consequence of this memorial, the author of which was
+unknown during his life, that an order was given not to treat as an
+enemy, the common benefactor of every European nation.' Whilst great
+praise is due to Monsieur Turgot, for having suggested the adoption of
+a measure which hath contributed so much to the reputation of the
+French government, it must not be forgotten, that the first thought of
+such a plan of conduct was probably owing to Dr Benjamin Franklin.
+Thus much, at least, is certain, that this eminent philosopher, when
+Embassador at Paris from the United States of America, preceded the
+court of France in issuing a similar requisition; a copy of which
+cannot fail of being acceptable to the reader.
+
+<p><i>'To all Captains and Commanders of Armed Ships, acting by Commission
+from the Congress of the United States of America, now in war with
+Great Britain</i>.
+
+<p>'Gentlemen,
+
+<p>'A ship having been fitted out from England before the commencement of
+this war, to make discoveries of new countries in unknown seas, under
+the conduct of that most celebrated Navigator and Discoverer, Captain
+Cook; an undertaking truly laudable in itself, as the increase of
+geographical knowledge facilitates the communication between distant
+nations, in the exchange of useful products and manufactures, and the
+extension of arts, whereby the common enjoyments of human life are
+multiplied and augmented, and science of other kinds increased, to the
+benefit of mankind in general.--This is therefore most earnestly to
+recommend to every one of you, that in case the said ship, which is
+now expected to be soon in the European seas on her return, should
+happen to fall into your hands, you should not consider her as an
+enemy, nor suffer any plunder to be made of the effects contained in
+her, nor obstruct her immediate return to England, by detaining her,
+or sending her into any other part of Europe, or to America; but that
+you would treat the said Captain Cook and his people with all civility
+and kindness, affording them, as common friends to mankind, all the
+assistance in your power, which they may happen to stand in need of.
+In so doing, you will not only gratify the generosity of your own
+dispositions, but there is no doubt of your obtaining the approbation
+of the Congress, and your other American owners.
+
+<p>I have the honour to be,
+
+<p>Gentlemen,
+
+<p>Your most obedient humble servant,
+
+<p>B. FRANKLIN,
+
+<p>Minister Plenipotentiary from the Congress of the United States, at
+the Court of France.
+
+<p><i>At Passy, near Paris, this 10th day of March, 1779</i>.'
+
+<p>"It is observable, that as Dr Franklin acted on his own authority, he
+could only <i>earnestly recommend</i> to the commanders of American armed
+vessels not to consider Captain Cook as an enemy; and it is somewhat
+remarkable, that he mentions no more than one ship; Captain Clerke not
+being noticed in the requisition. In the confidence which the Doctor
+expressed, with respect to the approbation of Congress, he happened to
+be mistaken. As the members of that assembly, at least with regard to
+the greater part of them, were not possessed of minds equally
+enlightened with that of their embassador, he was not supported by his
+masters in this noble act of humanity, of love to science, and of
+liberal policy. The orders he had given were instantly reversed; and
+it was directed by Congress, that especial care should be taken to
+seize Captain Cook, if an opportunity of doing it occurred. All this
+proceeded from a false notion, that it would be injurious to the
+United States for the English to obtain a knowledge of the opposite
+coast of America. The conduct of the court of Spain was regulated by
+similar principles of jealousy. It was apprehended by that court, that
+there was reason to be cautious of granting, too easily, an indulgence
+to Captain Cook; since it was not certain what mischiefs might ensue
+to the Spaniards from a northern passage to their American dominions.
+M. de Belluga, a Spanish gentleman and officer, of a liberal and a
+philosophical turn of mind, and who was a member of the Royal Society
+of London, endeavoured to prevail upon the count of Florida Blanca,
+and M. d'Almodavar, to grant an order of protection to the Resolution
+and Discovery; and he flattered himself, that the ministers of the
+king of Spain would be prevailed upon to prefer the cause of science
+to the partial views of interest; but the Spanish government was not
+capable of rising to so enlarged and magnanimous a plan of policy. To
+the French nation alone, therefore, was reserved the honour of setting
+an example of wisdom and humanity, which, I trust, will not,
+hereafter, be so uncommon in the history of mankind."
+
+<p>The illiberality of his contemporaries, it may be remarked, is not one
+of the least evils with which a mind advanced beyond their standard,
+has to contend; but he has always one consolation in which he may take
+refuge--the time will come when the gratitude of science and humanity
+will vindicate his views, though charity, perhaps, forbid their
+jealousy and prejudices to be remembered as a contrast. Nations never
+more injure themselves in opinion, which is so closely connected with
+their best interests, than when, from narrow policy and unfounded
+suspicions, they obstruct, or attempt to obstruct, the prosecution of
+undertakings which have the welfare of our common nature for their
+object. The best apology which it is possible to make for them in such
+cases, is, that they are too ignorant to comprehend how the general
+improvement of human concerns implies the enlargement of their own
+advantages.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>At two in the afternoon, having got under sail, the Resolution saluted the
+fort of Macao with eleven guns, which was returned with the same number. At
+five, the wind dropping, the ship missed stays, and drove into shallow
+water; but, by carrying out an anchor, she was hauled off without receiving
+the smallest damage. The weather continuing calm, we were obliged to warp
+out into the entrance of the Typa, which we gained by eight o'clock, and
+lay there till nine the next morning; when, by the help of a fresh breeze
+from the east, we stood to the southward, between Potoe and Wungboo.
+
+<p>At noon, we were saluted by a Swedish ship, as she passed us, on her way to
+Europe. At four, the Ladrone bore E., distant two leagues. We now steered
+S. 1/2 E., with a fresh breeze from the E.N.E., without any occurrence
+worth remarking, till noon of the 15th, when, being in latitude 18° 57',
+and longitude 114° 13', the wind veering to the N., we directed our course
+half a point more to the eastward, in order to strike soundings over the
+Macclesfield Bank. This we effected at eight in the evening of the 16th,
+and found the depth of water to be fifty fathoms, over a bottom of white
+sand and shells. This part of the Macclesfield shoals we placed in latitude
+15° 51', and in longitude 114° 20'; which agrees very exactly with the
+position given in Mr Dalrymple's map, whose general accuracy, if it stood
+in need of any support, was confirmed, in this instance, by a great number
+of lunar observations, which we had an opportunity of making every day
+since we left the Typa. The variation was found to be, in the forenoon, 0°
+39' W.
+
+<p>On the 17th, we had heavy gales from the E. by N., with a rough tumbling
+sea, and the weather overcast and boisterous. On the 18th, the wind still
+continuing to blow strong, and the sea to run high, we altered our course
+to S.W. by S.; and at noon, being in latitude 12° 34', longitude 112°, we
+began to steer a point more to the westward for Pulo Sapata, which we saw
+on the 19th, at four in the afternoon, bearing N.W. by W., about four
+leagues distant. This small, high, barren island, is called <i>Sapata</i>, from
+its resemblance of a shoe. Our observations, compared with Mr Bayley's
+time-keeper, place it in latitude 10° 4' N. longitude 109° 10' E. The gale
+had, at this time, increased with such violence, and the sea ran so high,
+as to oblige us to close-reef the topsails. During the last three days, the
+ships had outrun their reckoning at the rate of twenty miles a-day, and as
+we could not attribute the whole of this to the effects of a following sea,
+we imputed it in part to a current, which, according to my own
+calculations, had set forty-two miles to the S.S.W., between the noon of
+the 19th and the noon of the 20th; and is taken into the account in
+determining the situation of the island.
+
+<p>After passing Sapata, we steered to the westward; and at midnight sounded,
+and had ground with fifty fathoms of line, over a fine sandy bottom. In the
+morning of the 20th, the wind becoming more moderate, we let out the reefs,
+and steered W. by S. for Pulo Condore. At noon, the latitude was 8° 46' N.,
+longitude 106° 45' E.; and at half-past twelve we got sight of the island,
+bearing W. At four, the extremes of Pulo Condore, and the islands that lie
+off it, bore S.E. and S.W. by W.; our distance from the nearest islands
+being two miles. We kept to the N. of the islands, and stood for the
+harbour on the S.W. end of Condore, which, having its entrance from the
+N.W. is the best sheltered during the N.E. monsoon. At six, we anchored,
+with the best bower, in six fathoms, veered away two-thirds of the cable,
+and kept the ship steady with a stream-anchor and cable to the S.E. When
+moored, the extremes of the entrance of the harbour bore N. by W., and
+W.N.W. 1/4 W.; the opening at the upper end S.E. by E. 3/4 E.; our distance
+from the nearest shore a quarter of a mile.
+
+<p>As soon as we were come to anchor, Captain Gore fired a gun, with a view of
+apprising the natives of our arrival, and drawing them toward the shore,
+but without effect. Early in the morning of the 21st, parties were sent to
+cut wood, which was Captain Gore's principal motive for coming hither. In
+the afternoon, a sudden gust of wind broke the stream-cable, by which the
+Discovery was riding, and obliged us to moor with the bower-anchors.
+
+<p>None of the natives having yet made their appearance, notwithstanding a
+second gun had been fired, Captain Gore thought it adviseable to land, and
+go in search of them, that no time might be lost in opening a trade for
+such provisions as the place could afford; with this view he appointed me
+to accompany him, in the morning of the 22d; and, as the wind at this time
+blew strong from the E., we did not think it prudent to coast in our boats
+to the town, which is situated in the E. side of the island, but rowed
+round the north point of the harbour. We had proceeded about two miles
+along the shore, when, observing a road that led into a wood, we landed.
+Here I quitted Captain Gore, taking with me a midshipman and four armed
+sailors, and pursued the path which seemed to point directly across the
+island. We proceeded through a thick wood, up a steep hill, to the distance
+of a mile, when, after descending through a wood of the same extent, on the
+other side, we came out into a flat, open, sandy country, interspersed with
+cultivated spots of rice and tobacco, and groves of cabbage palm-trees and
+cocoa-nut trees. We here spied two huts, situated on the edge of the wood,
+to which we directed our course; and, before we came up to them, were
+descried by two men, who immediately ran away from us, notwithstanding all
+the peaceable and supplicating gestures we could devise.
+
+<p>On reaching the huts, I ordered the party to stay without, lest the sight
+of so many armed men should terrify the inhabitants, whilst I entered and
+reconnoitred alone. I found, in one of the huts, an elderly man, who was in
+a great fright, and preparing to make off with the most valuable of his
+effects that he could carry. However, I was fortunate enough, in a very
+little time, so entirely to dispel his fears, that he came out, and called
+to the two men, who were running away, to return. The old man and I now
+soon came to a perfect understanding. A few signs, particularly that most
+significant one of holding out a handful of dollars, and then pointing to a
+herd of buffaloes, and the fowls that were running about the huts in great
+numbers, left him without any doubts as to the real objects of our visit.
+He pointed toward a place where the town stood, and made us comprehend,
+that, by going thither, all our wants would be supplied. By this time, the
+young men, who had fled, were returned; and the old man ordered one of them
+to conduct us to the town, as soon as an obstacle should be removed, of
+which we were not aware. On our first coming out of the wood, a herd of
+buffaloes, to the number of twenty at least, came running toward us,
+tossing up their heads, snuffing the air, and roaring in a hideous manner.
+They had followed us to the huts, and stood drawn up in a body, at a little
+distance; and the old man made us understand, that it would be exceedingly
+dangerous for us to move till they were driven into the woods; but so
+enraged were the animals grown at the sight of us, that this was not
+effected without a good deal of time and difficulty. The men not being able
+to accomplish it, we were surprised to see them, call to their assistance a
+few little boys, who soon drove them out of sight. Afterward, we had
+occasion to observe, that, in driving these animals, and securing them,
+which is done by putting a rope through a hole which is made in their
+nostrils, little boys were always employed, who could stroke and handle
+them with impunity, at times when the men durst not approach them. Having
+got rid of the buffaloes, we were conducted to the town, which was at a
+mile's distance; the road to it lying through a deep white sand. It is
+situated near the sea-side, at the bottom of a retired bay, which must
+afford a safe road-stead during the prevalence of the S.W. monsoons.
+
+<p>This town consists of between twenty and thirty houses, built close
+together; besides six or seven others that are scattered about the beach.
+The roof, the two ends, and the side fronting the country, are neatly
+constructed of reeds; the opposite side, facing the sea, is entirely open;
+but, by means of a sort of bamboo screens, they can exclude or let in as
+much of the sun or air as they please. We observed, likewise, other large
+screens or partitions, for the purpose of dividing, as occasion required,
+the single room of which the house, properly speaking, consists, into
+separate apartments.
+
+<p>We were conducted to the largest house in the town, belonging to their
+chief, or, as they called him, their captain. This house had a room at each
+end, separated by a partition of reeds from the middle space, which was
+open on both sides, and provided with partition screens like the others. It
+had, besides, a penthouse, projecting four or five feet beyond the roof,
+and running the whole length on each side. At each end of the middle room
+were hung some Chinese paintings, representing men and women in ludicrous
+attitudes. In this apartment we were civilly desired to seat ourselves on
+mats, and <i>betel</i> was presented to us.
+
+<p>By means of my money, and pointing at different objects in sight, I had no
+difficulty in making a man, who seemed to be the principal person of the
+company, comprehend the main business of our errand; and I as readily
+understood from him, that the chief, or captain, was absent, but would soon
+return; and that, without his consent, no purchases of any kind could be
+made. We availed ourselves of the opportunity which this circumstance
+afforded us, to walk about the town; and did not forget to search, though
+in vain, for the remains of a fort, which had been built by our countrymen
+near the spot we were now upon, in 17O2.[108]
+
+<p>[108] The English settled here in the year 17O2, when the factory of
+Chusan, on the coast of China, was broken up, and brought with them
+some Macassar soldiers, who were hired to assist in building a fort;
+but the president not fulfilling his engagement with them, they
+watched an opportunity, and one night murdered all the English in the
+fort. Those without the fort hearing a noise, took the alarm, and ran
+to their boats, very narrowly escaping with their lives, but not
+without much fatigue, hunger, and thirst, to the Johore dominions,
+where they were treated with great humanity. Some of these afterward
+went to form a settlement at Benjar-Massean, on the island of Borneo.-
+-<i>East India Directory</i>, p. 36.
+
+<p>On returning to the captain's house, we were sorry to find that he was not
+yet arrived; and the more so, as the time was almost elapsed which Captain
+Gore had fixed for our return to the boat. The natives were desirous we
+should lengthen our stay; they even proposed our passing the night there,
+and offered to accommodate us in the best manner in their power. I had
+observed, when we were in the house before, and now remarked it the more,
+that the man I have mentioned above frequently retired into one of the end
+rooms, and staid there some little time, before he answered the questions
+that were put to him; which led me to suspect that the captain was all the
+time there, though, for reasons best known to himself, he did not choose to
+appear; and I was confirmed in this opinion, by being stopped as I was
+attempting to go into the room. At length, it clearly appeared that my
+suspicions were well founded; for, on our preparing to depart, the person
+who had so often passed in and out, came from the room, with a paper in his
+hand, and gave it to me to read; and I was not a little surprised to find
+in it a sort of a certificate, in French, as follows:
+
+<p>PIERRE JOSEPH GEORGE, Evêque d'Adran, Vicaire Apost. de Cochin China, &amp;c.
+&amp;c.
+
+<p>Le petit <i>Mandarin</i>, porteur de cet écrit, est véritablement Envoyé de la
+cour à Pulo Condore, pour y attendre et recevoir tout vaisseau European qui
+auroit sa destination d'approcher ici. Le Capitaine, en consequence,
+pourroit se fier ou pour conduire le vaisseau au port, ou pour faire passer
+les nouvelles qu'll pourroit croire nécessaire.
+
+<p>PIERRE JOSEPH GEORGE,
+
+<p>Evêque d'Adran.
+
+<p>A SAI-GON, 10 d'Août, 1779.
+
+<p>We returned the paper, with many protestations of our being the
+<i>Mandarin's</i> good friends, begging he might be informed that we hoped he
+would do us the favour to visit the ships, that we might convince him of
+it. We now took our leave, well satisfied on the whole with what had
+passed, but full of conjectures about this extraordinary French paper.
+Three of the natives offered their services to accompany us back, which we
+readily accepted, and returned by the way we came. Captain Gore felt
+peculiar satisfaction at seeing us; for, as we had exceeded our time near
+an hour, he began to be alarmed for our safety, and was preparing to march
+after us. He and his party had, during our absence, been profitably
+employed, in loading the boat with the cabbage-palm, which abounds in this
+bay. Our guides were made exceedingly happy, on our presenting them with a
+dollar each for their trouble, and intrusting to their care a bottle of rum
+for the <i>Mandarin</i>. One of them chose to accompany us on board.
+
+<p>At two in the afternoon we joined the ships, and several of our shooting
+parties returned about the same time from the woods, having had little
+success, though they saw a great variety of birds and animals, some of
+which will be hereafter noticed.
+
+<p>At five, a <i>proa</i>, with six men, rowed up to the ship, from the upper end
+of the harbour, and a decent-looking personage introduced himself to
+Captain Gore with an ease and good breeding, which convinced us his time
+had been spent in other company than what this island afforded. He brought
+with him the French paper above transcribed, and said he was the <i>Mandarin</i>
+mentioned in it. He spoke a few Portuguese words; but, as none of us were
+acquainted with this language, we were obliged to have recourse to a black
+man on board, who could speak the Malay, which is the general language of
+these islanders, and was understood by the <i>Mandarin</i>. After a little
+previous conversation, he declared to us that he was a Christian, and had
+been baptised by the name of Luco; that he had been, sent hither in August
+last, from Sai-gon, the capital of Cochin China, and had since waited in
+expectation of some French ships, which he was to pilot to a safe port, not
+more than a day's sail hence, upon the coast of Cochin China. We acquainted
+him, that we were not French, but English, and asked him, whether he did
+not know that these two nations were now at war with one another. He made
+answer in the affirmative; but, at the same time, signified to us, that it
+was indifferent to him to what nation the ships he was instructed to wait
+for belonged, provided their object was to trade with the people of Cochin
+China. He here produced another paper, which he desired us to read. This
+was a letter sealed, and directed "To the captains of any European vessels
+that may touch at Condore." Although we apprehended that this letter was
+designed for French ships in particular, yet as the direction included all
+European captains, and as Luco was desirous of our perusing it, we broke
+the seal, and found it to be written by the bishop who wrote the
+certificate. Its contents were as follows: "That having reason to expect,
+by some late intelligence from Europe, that a vessel would soon come to
+Cochin China, he had, in consequence of this news, got the court to send a
+<i>Mandarin</i> (the bearer) to Pulo Condore, to wait its arrival; that if the
+vessel should put in there, the commander might either send by the bearer
+an account to him of his arrival, or trust himself to the <i>Mandarin</i>, who
+would pilot him into a well-sheltered port in Cochin China, not more than a
+day's sail from Condore; that, should he choose to remain in Condore till
+the return of the messenger, proper interpreters would be sent back, and
+any other assistance, which a letter should point out, be furnished; that
+it was unnecessary to be more particular, of which the captain himself must
+be sensible." This letter had the same date as the certificate, and was
+returned to Luco again, without any copy being taken.
+
+<p>From this letter, and the whole of Luco's conversation, there remained
+little doubt, that it was a French ship he was to expect; at the same time
+we found he would be glad not to lose his errand, and had no objection to
+become our pilot. We could not discover from the <i>Mandarin</i>, the exact
+object and business which the vessel he was waiting for intended to
+prosecute in Cochin China. It is true, that our interpreter, the black, was
+extremely dull and stupid, and I should therefore be sorry, with such
+imperfect means of information, to run the risk of misleading the reader by
+any conjectures of my own, respecting the object of Luco's visit to this
+island. I shall only add, that he told us the French ships might perhaps
+have put into Tirnon, and from thence sail to Cochin China; and as he had
+received no intelligence of them, he thought this most likely to have been
+the case.
+
+<p>Captain Gore's enquiries were next directed to find out what supplies could
+be obtained from the island. Luco said, that he had two buffaloes of his
+own, which were at our service; and that there were plenty on the island,
+which might be purchased for four or five dollars a head; but finding that
+Captain Gore thought that sum exceedingly moderate, and would willingly
+give for them a much greater, the price was afterward raised upon us to
+seven and eight dollars.
+
+<p>Early in the morning of the 23d, the launches of both ships were sent to
+the town, to fetch the buffaloes which we had given orders to be purchased;
+but they were obliged to wait till it was high-water, as they could at no
+other time get through the opening at the head of the harbour. On their
+arrival at the village, they found the surf breaking on the beach with such
+force, that it was with the utmost difficulty each launch brought a
+buffaloe on board in the evening, and the officers, who were sent on this
+service, gave it as their opinion, that between the violence of the surf,
+and the fierceness of the buffaloes, it would be extremely imprudent to
+attempt bringing any more off in this way. We had purchased eight, and were
+now at a loss in what manner to proceed to get them on board. We could kill
+no more than was just necessary for the consumption of one day, as in this
+climate meat will not keep till the next. After consulting with Luco, it
+was concluded, that the remainder should be driven through the wood, and
+over the hill down to the bay, where Captain Gore and I had landed the day
+before, which being sheltered from the wind, was more free from surf. This
+plan was accordingly put in execution; but the untractableness and
+prodigious strength of the buffaloes, rendered it a tedious and difficult
+operation. The method of conducting them was, by passing ropes through
+their nostrils, and round their horns; but having been once enraged at the
+sight of our men, they became so furious, that they sometimes broke the
+trees, to which we were often under the necessity of tying them; sometimes
+they tore asunder the cartilage of the nostril, through which the ropes
+ran, and got loose. On these occasions, all the exertions of our men to
+recover them would have been ineffectual, without the assistance of some
+young boys, whom these animals would permit to approach them, and by whose
+little managements their rage was soon appeased. And when, at length, they
+were got down to the beach, it was by their aid, in twisting ropes round
+their legs, in the manner they were directed, that we were enabled to throw
+them down, and by that means to get them into the boats. A circumstance,
+respecting these animals, which I thought no less singular than this
+gentleness toward, and, as it should seem, affection for little children,
+was, that they had not been twenty-four hours on board, before they became
+the tamest of all creatures. I kept two of them, a male and female, for a
+considerable time, which, became great favourites with the sailors, and,
+thinking that a breed of animals of such strength and size, some of them
+weighing, when dressed, seven hundred pounds weight, would be a valuable
+acquisition, I was inclined to have brought them with me to England; but my
+intention was frustrated by an incurable hurt that one of them received at
+sea.[109]
+
+<blockquote>[109] Mr Bingley informs us, that buffaloes have been introduced into some
+of the countries of Europe, where they are now perfectly naturalized.
+Thus in Italy they are said to constitute an essential part both of
+the riches and the food of the poor. So far as the writer knows, they
+have not yet been brought into England, and, indeed, notwithstanding
+the high opinion entertained of their good qualities, he thinks it
+doubtful if they would prove any acquisition to it.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>It was not till the 28th, that the buffaloes were all got on board;
+however, there was no reason to regret the time taken up by this service,
+since, in the interim, two wells of excellent water had been discovered, of
+which, as also of wood, part of the ships' companies had been employed in
+laying in a good supply; so that a shorter stop would be necessary, for
+replenishing our stock of these articles in the Strait of Sunda. A party
+had likewise been occupied in drawing the seine, at the head of the
+harbour, where they took a great many good fish; and another party, in
+cutting down the cabbage palm, which was boiled and served out with the
+meat. Besides this, having been able to procure only a scanty supply of
+cordage at Macao, the repairing of our rigging was become an object of
+constant attention, and demanded all our spare time.
+
+<p>Pulo-Condore is high and mountainous, and surrounded by several smaller
+islands, some of which are less than one, and others two miles distant. It
+takes its name from two Malay words, <i>Pulo</i>, signifying an island, and
+<i>Condore</i>, a calabash, of which it produces great quantities. It is of the
+form of a crescent, extending near eight miles from the southernmost point,
+in a N.E. direction; but its breadth nowhere exceeds two miles. From the
+westernmost extremity, the land trends to the S.E. for about four miles;
+and opposite to this part of the coast there is an island, called, by
+Monsieur D'Apres,[110] <i>Little Condore</i>, which runs two miles in the same
+direction. This position of the two islands affords a safe and commodious
+harbour, the entrance into which is from the N.W. The distance between the
+two opposite coasts is three quarters of a mile, exclusive of a border of
+coral rock, which runs down along each side, extending about one hundred
+yards from the shore. The anchorage is very good, from eleven to five
+fathoms water, but the bottom is so soft and clayey, that we found great
+difficulty in weighing our anchors. Toward the bottom of the harbour there
+is shallow water for about half a mile, beyond which the two islands
+approach so near each other, as to leave only a passage at high water for
+boats. The most convenient place for watering is at a beach on the eastern
+side, where there is a small stream which furnished us with fourteen or
+fifteen tons of water a day.
+
+<blockquote>[110] Neptune Oriental.</blockquote>
+
+<p>This island, both with respect to animal and vegetable productions, is
+considerably improved since the time when Dampier visited it. Neither that
+writer, nor the compiler of the East India Directory, make mention of any
+other quadrupeds than hogs, which are said to be very scarce, lizards, and
+the guanoes; and the latter, on the authority of Monsieur Dedier, a French
+engineer, who surveyed the island about the year 1720, says, that none of
+the fruits and esculent plants, so common in the other parts of India, are
+to be found here, except water-melons, a few potatoes, small gourds,
+<i>chibbolds</i>, (a small species of onion,) and little black beans. At
+present, besides the buffaloes, of which we understood there were several
+large herds, we purchased from the natives some remarkably fine fat hogs,
+of the Chinese breed. They brought us three or four of a wild sort; and our
+sportsmen reported, that they frequently met with their tracks in the
+woods, which also abound with monkies and squirrels, but so shy, that it
+was difficult to shoot them. One species of the squirrel was of a beautiful
+shining black colour; and another species striped brown and white. This is
+called the flying-squirrel, from being provided with a thin membrane,
+resembling a bat's wing, extended on each side the belly, from the neck to
+the thighs; which, on stretching out their legs, spreads and enables them
+to fly from tree to tree, at a considerable distance. Lizards were in great
+abundance; but I do not know that any of us saw the guano, and another
+animal described by Dampier[111] as resembling the guano, only much larger.
+
+<blockquote>[111] Vid. Dampier, vol. i. p. 392.</blockquote>
+
+<p>Amongst its vegetable improvements, I have already mentioned the fields of
+rice we passed through; and plantains, various kinds of pompions, cocoa-
+nuts, oranges, shaddocks, and pomegranates, were also met with; though,
+except the plantains and shaddocks, in no great abundance.
+
+<p>It is probable, from what has been already said, relative to the Bishop of
+Adran, that the French have introduced these improvements into the island,
+for the purpose of making it a more convenient refreshing station for any
+of their ships that may be bound for Cambodia, or Cochin China. Should they
+have made, or intend to make, any settlement in those countries, it is
+certainly well situated for that purpose, or for annoying the trade of
+their enemies, in case of war.
+
+<p>Our sportsmen were very unsuccessful in their pursuit of the feathered
+game, with which the woods are well stocked. One of our gentlemen had the
+good fortune to shoot a wild hen; and all the shooting parties agreed that
+they heard the crowing of the cocks on every side, which they described to
+be like that of our common cock, but shriller; that they saw several of
+them on the wing, but that they were exceedingly shy. The hen that was shot
+was of a speckled colour, and of the same shape, though not quite so large,
+as a full-grown pullet of this country. Monsieur Sonnerat has entered into
+a long dissertation, to prove that he was the first person who determined
+the country to which this most beautiful and useful bird belongs, and
+denies that Dampier met with it here.
+
+<p>The land in the neighbourhood of the harbour is a continued high hill,
+richly adorned with a variety of fine tall trees, from the summit to the
+water's edge. Among others, we observed what Dampier calls the tar-
+tree;[112] but observed none that were tapped, in the manner he describes.
+
+<blockquote>[112] Dampier, vol. i. p. 90.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The inhabitants, who are fugitives from Cambodia and Cochin China, are not
+numerous. They are of a short stature, and very swarthy, and of a weak and
+unhealthy aspect; but, as far as we could judge, of a gentle disposition.
+
+<p>We remained here till the 28th of January; and, at taking leave of the
+<i>Mandarin</i>, Captain Gore, at his own request, gave him a letter of
+recommendation to the commanders of any other ships that might put in here;
+to which he added a handsome present. He likewise gave him a letter for the
+Bishop of Adran, together with a telescope, which he begged might be
+presented to him as a compliment for the services he had received, through
+his means, at Condore.
+
+<pre>
+The harbour at Pulo Condore is in latitude      8° 40' 00" N.
+
+Longitude, deduced from a great number
+of lunar observations                         105  18  46  E.
+
+Dip of the north pole of the magnetic
+needle                                          2   1
+
+Variation of the compass                           14      W.
+
+High water, at the full and change
+of the moon                                   4^h 16^m apparent time.
+</pre>
+
+<p>From this time the water continued, for twelve hours, without any visible
+alteration, viz. till 16^h 15^m apparent time, when it began to ebb; and at
+22^h 15^m apparent time it was low water. The change, from ebbing to
+flowing, was very quick, or in less than 5^m. The water rose and fell seven
+feet four inches perpendicular; and every day the same whilst we continued
+there.
+
+<p>SECTION XI.
+
+<p>Departure from Pulo Condore.--Passs the Straits of Banca.--View of the
+Island of Sumatra.--Straits of Sunda.--Occurrences there.--Description of
+the Island of Cracatoa.--Prince's Island.--Effects of the Climate of
+Java.--Run to the Cape of Good Hope,--Transactions there.--Description of
+False Bay.--Passage to the Orkneys.--General Reflections.
+
+<p>On the 28th day of January, 1780, we unmoored; and, as soon as we were
+clear of the harbour, steered S.S.W. for Pulo Timoan. On the 30th, at noon,
+the latitude by observation, being 5° 0' N., and longitude 104° 45' E., we
+altered our course to S. 3/4 W., having a moderate breeze from the N.E.,
+accompanied by fair weather. At two in the morning of the 31st, we had
+soundings of forty-five fathoms, over a bottom of fine white sand; at which
+time our latitude was 4° 4' N., longitude 104° 29' E., and the variation of
+the compass 0° 31' E.
+
+<p>At one in the afternoon, we saw Pulo Timoan; and, at three, it bore S.S.W.
+3/4 W., distant ten miles. This island is high and woody, and has several
+small ones lying off to the westward. At five, Pulo Puissang was seen
+bearing S. by E. 3/4 E.; and, at nine, the weather being thick and hazy,
+and having out-run our reckoning from the effect of some current, we were
+close upon Pulo Aor, in latitude 2° 46' N., longitude 104° 37' E., before
+we were well aware of it, which obliged us to haul the wind to the E.S.E.
+We kept this course till midnight, and then bore away S.S.E. for the Strait
+of Banca.
+
+<p>On the 1st of February, at noon, our latitude by observation was 1° 20' N.,
+and the longitude, deduced from a great number of lunar observations taken
+in the course of the preceding twelve hours, 105° E. At the same time, the
+longitude, by Mr Bayley's time-keeper corrected, was 105° 15' E. We now
+steered S. by E.; and, at sun-set, having fine clear weather, saw Pulo
+Panjung; the body of the island bearing W.N.W., and the small islands,
+lying on the S.E. of it, W. 1/2 S., seven leagues distant. Our latitude, at
+this time, was 0° 53' N.
+
+<p>On the 2d, at eight in the morning, we tried for soundings, continuing to
+do the same every hour, till we passed the Strait of Sunda, and found the
+bottom with twenty-three fathoms of line. At noon, being in latitude, by
+observation, 0° 22' S., longitude 105° 14' E., and our soundings twenty
+fathoms, we came in sight of the little islands called Dominis, which lie
+off the eastern part of Lingen; and which bore from N. 62° W. to N. 80° W.,
+five leagues distant. At this time we passed a great deal of wood drifting
+on the sea; and, at one o'clock, we saw Pulo Taya, bearing S.W. by W.,
+distant seven leagues. It is a small high island, with two round peaks, and
+two detached rocks lying off to the northward. When abreast of this island,
+we had soundings of fifteen fathoms. During this and the preceding day, we
+saw great quantities of a reddish-coloured scum or spawn, floating on the
+water, in a southerly direction.
+
+<p>At day-light, on the 3d, we came in sight of the Three Islands; and, soon
+after, of Monopin Hill, on the island of Banca. At noon, this hill, which
+forms the N.E. point of the entrance of the Straits, bore S.E. 1/2 S.
+distant six leagues; our latitude, by observation, being 1° 48' S., and
+longitude 105° 3' E., the soundings seventeen fathoms, and no perceivable
+variation in the compass.
+
+<p>Having got to the westward of the shoal, called Frederick Endric, at half-
+past two we entered the Straits, and bore away to the southward; and, in
+the afternoon, Monopin Hill bearing due E., we determined its latitude to
+be 2° 3' S., the same as in Mons. D'Apres' map, and its longitude 105° 18'
+E. At nine, a boat came off from the Banca shore, and having rowed round
+the ships, went away again. We hailed her in the Malaye tongue to come on
+board, but received no answer. At midnight, finding a strong tide against
+us, we anchored in twelve fathoms, Monopin Hill bearing N. 29° W.
+
+<p>On the 4th, in the morning, after experiencing some difficulty in weighing
+our anchors, owing to the stiff tenacious quality of the ground, we
+proceeded with the tide down the Straits; the little wind we had from the
+northward dying away as the day advanced. At noon, there being a perfect
+calm, and the tide making against us, we dropt our anchor in thirteen
+fathoms water, about three miles from what is called the Third Point, on
+the Sumatra shore, Monopin Hill bearing N. 54° W. The latitude, by
+observation, was 2° 22' S., longitude 105° 38' E. At three in the afternoon
+we weighed, and stood on through the Straits with a light breeze; and at
+eight, were abreast of the Second Point, and passed it within two miles, in
+seventeen fathoms water; a sufficient proof that this Point may be bordered
+upon with safety. At midnight, we again came to anchor, on account of the
+tide, in thirteen fathoms, Mount Permissang, on the island of Banca,
+bearing N. 7° E, and the First Point S. 54° E., distant about three
+leagues.
+
+<p>In the morning of the 5th, we weighed, and kept on to the S E; and at ten,
+passed a small shoal, lying in a line with Lusepara and the First Point, at
+the distance of five miles from the latter. At noon, the island of Lusepara
+bearing S., 57° 1/2 E., four miles distant, we determined its latitude to
+be 3° 10' 1/2 S., and its longitude 106" 15' E. The difference of longitude
+between the island Lusepara, which lies in the S. entrance of the Strait of
+Banca and Monopin Hill, which forms one side of the entrance from the N.,
+we found to be 55', which is only two miles less than what is given in
+D'Apres' chart.
+
+<p>In passing this Strait, the coast of Sumatra may be approached somewhat
+closer than that of Banca. At the distance of two or three miles from the
+shore, there are ten, eleven, twelve, or thirteen fathoms, free from rocks
+or shoals; however the lead is the surest guide. The country is covered
+with wood down to the water's edge, and the shores are so low, that the sea
+overflows the land, and washes the trunks of the trees. To this flat and
+marshy situation of the shore, we may attribute those thick fogs and
+vapours, which we perceived every morning, not without dread and horror,
+hanging over the island, till they were dispersed by the rays of the sun.
+The shores of Banca are much bolder, and the country inland rises to a
+moderate height, and appears to be well wooded throughout. We often saw
+fires on this island during the night-time; but none on the opposite shore.
+The tide runs through the Strait at the rate of between two and three knots
+an hour.
+
+<p>In the morning of the 6th, we passed to the westward of Lusepara, at the
+distance of four or five miles; generally carrying soundings of five or six
+fathoms water, and never less than four. We afterward steered S. by E.; and
+having brought Lusepara to bear due N., and deepened our water to seven
+fathoms, we altered our course to S. by W., keeping the lead going, and
+hauling out a little, whenever we shoaled our water. The soundings on the
+Sumatra side we still found to be regular, and gradually shoaling as we
+approached the shore. At five in the afternoon we saw the Two Sisters,
+bearing S. by W. 1/2 W.; and at seven, we came to an anchor in ten fathoms,
+about eight miles to the N. of the islands. The weather was close and
+sultry, with, light winds, generally from the N.W.; but sometimes varying
+round as far as the N.E.; and, during the night, we observed much lightning
+over Sumatra.
+
+<p>We weighed the next morning at five, and at eight were close in with the
+Sisters. These are two very small islands, well covered with wood, lying in
+latitude 5° 0' 1/2 S., longitude 106° 12' E., nearly N. and S. from each
+other, and surrounded by a reef of coral rocks; the whole circumference of
+which is about four or five miles. At noon we got sight of the island of
+Java to the southward; the N.W. extremity of which (Cape St Nicholas) bore
+S.; North Island on Sumatra shore, S., 27° W., and the Sisters N., 27° E.,
+distant four leagues; our latitude was 5° 21' S., longitude 105° 57' E.
+
+<p>At four in the afternoon we saw two sail in the Strait of Sunda; one lying
+at anchor near the Mid-channel Island, the other nearer the Java shore. Not
+knowing to what nation they might belong, we cleared our ships for action;
+and at six came to an anchor in twenty-five fathoms, four miles E. by S.
+from North Island. Here we lay all night, and had very heavy thunder and
+lightning to the N.W.; from which quarter the wind blew in light breezes,
+accompanied with hard rain.
+
+<p>At eight o'clock the next morning we weighed, and proceeded through the
+Strait, the tide setting to the southward, as it had done all night; but
+about ten, the breeze failing, we came to again in thirty-five fathoms; a
+high, island, or rather rock, called the Grand Toque, bearing S. by E. We
+were at this time not more than two miles from the ships, which now
+hoisting Dutch colours, Captain Gore sent a boat on board for intelligence.
+The rain still continued, with thunder and lightning.
+
+<p>Early in the afternoon the boat returned, with an account that the large
+ship was a Dutch East Indiaman, bound for Europe; and the other a packet
+from Batavia, with orders for the several ships lying in the Strait. It is
+the custom for the Dutch ships, as soon as their lading is nearly
+completed, to leave Batavia on account of its extreme unwholesomeness, and
+proceed to some of the more healthy islands in the Strait, where they wait
+for the remainder of their cargo and their dispatches. Notwithstanding this
+precaution, the Indiaman had lost, since her departure from Batavia, four
+men, and had as many more whose recovery was despaired of. She had lain
+here a fortnight, and was now about to proceed to Cracatoa, having just
+received final orders by the packet.
+
+<p>At seven in the morning of the 9th we weighed, and stood on through the
+Strait to the S.W., keeping pretty close in with the islands on the Sumatra
+shore, in order to avoid a rock near Mid-channel Island, which lay on our
+left. At half after ten, I received orders from Captain Gore to make sail
+toward a Dutch ship, which now hove in sight to the southward, and which we
+supposed to be from Europe; and, according to the nature of the
+intelligence we could procure from her, either to join him at Cracatoa,
+where he intended to stop, for the purpose of supplying the ships with
+arrack, or to proceed to the S.E. end of Prince's Island, and there take in
+our water and wait for him.
+
+<p>I accordingly bore down toward the Dutch ship, which, soon after, came to
+an anchor to the eastward; when the wind slackening, and the current still
+setting very strong through the Strait to the S.W., we found it impossible
+to fetch her, and having therefore got as near her as the tide would
+permit, we also dropt anchor. I immediately dispatched Mr Williamson in the
+cutter with orders to get on board her, if possible; but as she lay near a
+mile off, and, the tide ran with great rapidity, we soon perceived that the
+boat was dropping fast astern. We therefore made the signal to return, and
+immediately began to veer away the cable, and sent out a buoy astern, in
+order to assist him in getting on board again. Our poverty, in the article
+of cordage, was here very conspicuous; for we had not a single coil of rope
+in the store-room to fix the buoy, but were obliged to set about unreeving
+the studding-sail geer, the topsail-halliards and tackle-falls for that
+purpose; and the boat was at this time driving to the southward so fast,
+that it was not before we had veered away two cables, and almost all our
+running-rigging, that she could fetch the buoy.
+
+<p>I was under the necessity of waiting till the strength of the tide should
+abate, which did not happen till the next morning, when Mr Williamson got
+on board the ship, and learnt that she had been seven months from Europe,
+and three from the Cape of Good Hope; that before she sailed, France and
+Spain had declared war against Great Britain; and that she left Sir Edward
+Hughes, with a squadron of men of war, and a fleet of East India ships, at
+the Cape. Mr Williamson having at the same time been informed, that the
+water at Cracatoa was very good, and always preferred by the Dutch ships to
+that of Prince's Island, I resolved to rejoin the Resolution at the former
+place; and a fair breeze springing up, we weighed and stood over toward the
+island, where we soon after saw her at anchor; but the wind falling, and
+the tide setting strong against us, I was obliged to drop anchor, at the
+distance of about five miles from the Resolution, and immediately sent a
+boat on board, to acquaint Captain Gore with the intelligence we had
+received.
+
+<p>As soon as the Resolution saw us preparing to come to, she fired her guns,
+and hoisted an English jack at the ensign staff, the signal at sea to lead
+a-head. This we afterward understood was intended to prevent our anchoring,
+on account of the foul ground, which the maps she had on board placed here.
+However, as we found none, having a muddy bottom, and good holding ground,
+in sixty fathoms water, we kept fast till the return of the boat, which
+brought orders to proceed the next morning to Prince's Island. We were at
+this time two miles distant from the shore; the Peak of Cracatoa bore N.W.
+by N.; Bantam Point E.N.E. 1/2 E.; Prince's Island S.W. by W.
+
+<p>The island of Cracatoa is the southernmost of a group situated in the
+entrance of the Strait of Sunda. It has a high peaked hill on the S.
+end,[113] which lies in the latitude 6° 9' S., and longitude 105° 15' E.;
+the whole circuit of the island is not more than three leagues. Off the
+N.E. end lies a small island, which forms the road where the Resolution
+anchored; and within a reef that runs off the S. end of the latter, there
+is good shelter against all northerly winds, with eighteen fathoms water
+near the reef, and twenty-seven in the mid-channel. To the N.W. there is a
+narrow pass for boats between the two islands.
+
+<blockquote>[113] The island of Tamarin, or Sambouricon, which lies about four leagues
+to the north of Cracatoa, may be easily mistaken for the latter,
+having a hill of nearly the same size and form, situated also near its
+southern extremity.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The shore, which forms the western side of the road, is in a N.W.
+direction, and has a bank of coral stretching into the sea, about one-third
+of a cable's length, which makes the landing difficult for boats, except at
+high water; but the anchoring-ground is very good, and free from rocks. The
+place where the Resolution watered is a small spring, situated abreast of
+the S. end of the small island, at a short distance from the water-side. A
+little to the southward there is a very hot spring, which is used by the
+natives as a bath. Whilst we were lying off the S. end of this island, we
+sent a boat with the master, on shore, to look for water; but, after having
+landed with some difficulty, he returned unsuccessful.
+
+<p>Cracatoa is esteemed very healthy, in comparison of the neighbouring
+countries. It consists of high land, rising gradually on all sides from the
+sea; and the whole is covered with trees, except a few spots which the
+natives have cleared for rice-fields. The number of people on the island is
+very inconsiderable. Their chief, as are those of all the other islands in
+the Strait, is subject to the king of Bantam. The coral reefs afford plenty
+of small turtles, but other refreshments are very scarce, and sold at an
+enormous price.
+
+<p>
+Latitude of the road where the Resolution
+  anchored                                8° 6' south.
+Longitude, by Mr Bayley's timekeeper    104 48  east.
+Ditto,  by observation                  105 36  east.
+Dip of the south end of the magnetic
+  needle                                 26  3
+Variation of the compass                  1  0  west.
+
+<p>
+On the full and change days, it is high-water at 7h in the morning. The
+water rises three feet two inches perpendicular.
+
+<p>At eight o'clock in the evening, it began to blow afresh from the westward,
+with violent thunder, lightning, and rain; and at three the next morning,
+we weighed and stood over for Prince's Island, but the westerly wind dying
+away, was succeeded by a breeze from the S.E., and at the same time a
+strong tide setting to the S.W., prevented our fetching the island, and
+obliged us, at two in the afternoon, to drop anchor in sixty-five fathoms,
+over a muddy bottom, at three leagues distance from it; the high hill
+bearing S.W. by S., and the peak on Cracatoa N. by E. We had light airs and
+calms till six next morning, when we weighed and made sail, having, in our
+endeavours to heave the anchor out of the ground, twice broken the old
+messenger, and afterwards a new one, cut out of our best hawser. This,
+however, was entirely owing to the wretched state of our cordage; as the
+strain was not very considerable, and we had besides assisted the cable in
+coming in, by clapping the cat-tackle on it. The wind continuing fair, at
+noon we came to an anchor off the S.E. end of Prince's Island, in twenty-
+six fathoms, over a sandy bottom; the east end of the island bearing
+N.N.E., the southernmost point in sight S.W. by S., the high peak N.W. 1/2
+W., distant from the nearest shore half a mile.
+
+<p>As soon as we had come to anchor, Lieutenant Lannyon, who had been here
+before with Captain Cook, in the year 1770, was sent, along with the
+master, to look for the watering-place. The brook from which, according to
+the best of his recollection, the Endeavour had been supplied, was found
+quite salt. Further inland, they saw a dry bed, where the water seemed to
+have lodged in rainy seasons; and, about a cable's length below, another
+run, supplied from an extensive pool, the bottom of which, as well, as the
+surface, was covered with dead leaves. This, though a little brackish,
+being much preferable to the other, we began watering here early the next
+morning, and finished the same day.
+
+<p>The natives, who came to us soon after we anchored, brought a plentiful
+supply of large fowls, and some turtles; but the last were, for the most
+part, very small. In the course of the night we had heavy rain; and on the
+14th, at daylight, we saw the Resolution to the northward, standing toward
+the island; and at two in the afternoon, she dropped anchor close to us. In
+the course of the day we heeled the ship, and scrubbed and hogged her
+bottom, which was very foul; and got ready for sea.
+
+<p>The next day, Captain Gore not having completed his stock of water at
+Cracatoa, sent his men on shore, who now found the brook that was first
+mentioned rendered perfectly sweet by the rain, and flowing in great
+abundance. This being too valuable a treasure to be neglected, I gave
+orders, that the casks we had filled before should be started, and
+replenished with the fresh water, which was accordingly done before noon
+the next day; and in the evening we cleared the decks, and both ships were
+ready for sea.
+
+<p>In the forenoon of the 18th we had heavy rains and variable winds, which
+prevented our getting under way till two in the afternoon, when a light
+wind sprung up from the northward; but this soon after leaving us, we were
+obliged to drop our anchor again, at eight o'clock that night, in fifty
+fathoms water, and wait till the same hour the next morning. At that time,
+being favoured by a breeze from the N.W., we broke ground, to our
+inexpressible satisfaction, for the last time in the Strait of Sunda, and
+the next day had entirely lost sight of Prince's Island,
+
+<p>This island having been already described by Captain Cook, in the history
+of a former voyage, I shall only add, that we were exceedingly struck with
+the great general resemblance of the natives, both in figure, colour,
+manners, and even language, to the nations we had been so much conversant
+with in the South Seas. The effects of the Javanese climate, and I did not
+escape without my full share of it, made me incapable of pursuing the
+comparison so minutely as I could have wished.
+
+<p>The country abounds with wood to such a degree, that, notwithstanding the
+quantity cut down every year by the ships which put into the road, there is
+no appearance of its diminution. We were well supplied with small turtle,
+and fowls of a moderate size; the last were sold at the rate of ten for a
+Spanish dollar. The natives also brought us many hog-deer, and a prodigious
+number of monkeys, to our great annoyance, as most of our sailors provided
+themselves with one, if not two, of these troublesome animals.
+
+<p>As we should have met with some difficulty in finding the watering-place,
+if Mr Lannyon had not been with us, it may be worth while, for the use of
+future navigators, to describe its situation more particularly. The peaked
+hill on the island bears from it N.W. by N.; a remarkable tree, growing
+upon a coral reef, and quite detached from the neighbouring shrubs, stands
+just to the northward; and close by it there is a small plot of reedy
+grass, the only piece of the kind that can be seen hereabout. These marks
+will shew the place where the pool empties itself into the sea; but the
+water here is generally salt, as well as that which is in the pool. The
+casks must therefore be filled about fifty yards higher up; where, in dry
+seasons, the fresh water that comes down from the hills is lost among the
+leaves, and must be searched for by clearing them away.
+
+<p>
+The latitude of the anchoring-place
+  at Prince's Island was               6° 36' 15" south.
+Longitude                            105  17  30  east.
+Dip of the south pole of the magnetic
+  needle                              28  15   0
+Variation of the compass               0  54   0  west.
+Mean of the thermometer               83  1/2
+
+<p>
+From the time of our entering the Strait of Banca, we began to experience
+the powerful effects of this pestilential climate. Two of our people fell
+dangerously ill of malignant putrid fevers; which, however, we prevented
+from spreading, by putting the patients apart from the rest in the most
+airy births. Many were attacked with teazing coughs; others complained of
+violent pains in the head; and even the healthiest among us felt a
+sensation of suffocating heat, attended by an insufferable languor, and a
+total loss of appetite. But though our situation was for a time thus uneasy
+and alarming, we had at last the singular satisfaction of escaping from
+these fatal seas, without the loss of a single life; A circumstance which
+was probably owing in part to the vigorous health of the crews, when we
+first arrived here, as well as to the strict attention, now become habitual
+in our men, to the salutary regulations introduced amongst us by Captain
+Cook.
+
+<p>On our leaving Prince's Island, and during the whole time of our run from
+thence to the Cape of Good Hope, the crew of the Resolution was in a much
+more sickly state than that of the Discovery; for though many of us
+continued for some time complaining of the effects of the noxious climate
+we had left, yet happily we all recovered from them. Of the two who had
+been ill of fevers, one, after being seized with violent convulsions, on
+the 12th of February, which made us despair of his life, was relieved by
+the application of blisters, and was soon after out of danger. The other
+recovered, but more slowly. On board the Resolution, besides the obstinate
+coughs and fevers under which they very generally laboured, a great many
+were afflicted with fluxes, the number of whom, contrary to our
+expectations, continued increasmg till our arrival at the Cape.
+
+<p>Captain Gore attributed this difference in part, and probably with some
+reason, to the Discovery having her fire-place between decks; the heat and
+smoke of which, he conceived, might help to mitigate the bad effects of the
+damp night air. But I am rather inclined to believe, that we escaped the
+flux by the precautions that were taken to prevent our catching it from
+others. For if some kinds of fluxes be, as I apprehend there is no doubt
+they are, contagious, it is not improbable, that the Resolution caught this
+disorder from the Dutch ships at Cracatoa. In order to avoid this danger,
+when Mr Williamson was sent to the Indiaman in the entrance of the Strait
+of Sunda, he had the strictest orders not to suffer any of our people, on
+any account whatever, to go on board; and whenever we had afterward
+occasion to have any communication with the Resolution, the same caution
+was constantly observed.
+
+<p>We were no sooner clear of Prince's Island, than we had a gentle breeze
+from the W.N.W.; but this did not last long; for the following day the wind
+became again variable, and continued so till the noon of the 25th, when it
+grew squally, and blew fresh from the north.
+
+<p>On the 22d at noon, being in latitude 10° 28' S., and longitude 104° 14',
+we saw great quantities of boobies, and other fowls, that seldom go far
+from land; from which we conjectured, that we were near some small unknown
+island.
+
+<p>In the evening of the 25th, the wind changed suddenly to the southward,
+accompanied with heavy rains, and began to blow with great violence. During
+the night, almost every sail we had bent gave way, and most of them were
+split to rags; our rigging also suffered materially, and we were, the next
+day, obliged to bend our last suit of sails, and to knot and splice the
+rigging, our cordage being all expended. This sudden storm, we attributed
+to the change from the monsoon to the regular trade-wind; our latitude was
+about 13° 10' S., and we had made by our reckoning about 4-1/2° of
+longitude west from Java head.
+
+<p>From the 26th of this month to the 28th of March, we had a regular trade-
+wind from the S.E. to E. by S., with fine weather; and being in an old
+beaten track, met no occurrence that deserved the smallest notice.
+
+<p>In the morning of the 28th of March, being in latitude 31° 42' S., and
+longitude 35° 26' E., the trade-wind left us in a violent thunder-storm.
+From this time to the 3d of April, when our latitude was 35° 1' S., and
+longitude 26° 3' E., the winds were moderate, and generally from the south
+quarter. A fresh breeze then sprung up from the eastward, which continued
+till the afternoon of the 4th; after which we had a calm that lasted the
+two following days.
+
+<p>It had hitherto been Captain Gore's intention to proceed directly to St
+Helena, without stopping at the Cape; but the rudder of the Resolution
+having been, for some time, complaining, and, on being examined, reported
+to be in a dangerous state, he resolved to steer immediately for the Cape,
+as the most eligible place, both for the recovery of his sick, and for
+procuring a new main-piece to the rudder.
+
+<p>From the 21st of March, when we were in latitude 27° 22' S., longitude 52°
+25' E., to the 5th of April, when we had got into latitude 36° 12' S.,
+longitude 22° 7' E., we were strongly affected by the currents, which set
+to the S.S.W., and S.W. by W., sometimes at the rate of eighty knots a day.
+On the 6th, having got under the lee of the African coast, we lost them
+entirely.
+
+<p>In the morning of the 6th, a sail was seen to the S.W. standing toward us;
+and, as the wind soon after rose from the same quarter, we cleared our
+ships for action. We now discovered, from the mast-head, five sail more on
+our lee-bow, standing to the eastward; but the weather coming on hazy, we
+lost sight of them all in an hour's time. Our latitude at noon was 35° 49'
+S., longitude 21° 32' E. At seven o'clock the next morning (the 7th), we
+made the land to the northward at a considerable distance.
+
+<p>On the 8th, the weather was squally, and blew fresh from the N.W.; the
+following day it settled to the W., and we passed pretty close to the sail
+seen on the 6th, but did not hail her. She was clumsy in figure, and, to
+appearance, unskilfully managed; yet she outsailed us exceedingly. The
+colours which she hoisted were different from any we had seen; some
+supposed them to be Portugueze, others Imperial.
+
+<p>At day-light, the next morning, the land again appeared to the N.N.W.; and
+in the forenoon, a snow was seen bearing down to us, which proved to be an
+English East India packet, that had left Table Bay three days before, and
+was cruising with orders for the China fleet, and other India ships. She
+told us, that, about three weeks before, Mons. Trongoller's squadron,
+consisting of six ships, had sailed from the Cape, and was gone to cruise
+off St Helena, for our East India fleet. This intelligence made us
+conjecture, that the five sail we had seen standing to the eastward must
+have been the French squadron, who, in that case, had given over their
+cruise, and were probably proceeding to the Mauritius. Having informed the
+packet of our conjectures, and also of the time we understood the China
+ships were to sail from Canton, we left them, and proceeded toward the
+Cape.
+
+<p>In the evening of the 10th, the Gunner's Quoin bore N. by E., and False
+Cape, E.N.E.; but the wind being at S.W., and variable, prevented our
+getting into False Bay, till the evening of the 12th, when we dropt anchor
+abreast of Simon's Bay. We found a strong current setting to the westward,
+round the Cape, which, for some time, we could but just stem, with a breeze
+that would have carried us four knots an hour. The next morning we stood
+into Simon's Bay; and at eight came to anchor, and moored a cable each way;
+the best bower to the E.S.E., and small bower, W.N.W.; the S.E. point of
+the bay bearing S. by E., Table Mountain, N.E. 1/2 N.; distant from the
+nearest shore one-third of a mile. We found lying here, the Nassau and
+Southampton East-Indiamen, waiting for convoy for Europe. The Resolution
+saluted the fort with eleven guns, and the same number was returned.
+
+<p>Mr Brandt, the governor of this place, came to visit us, as soon as we had
+anchored. This gentleman had conceived a great affection for Captain Cook,
+who had been his constant guest, the many times he had visited the Cape;
+and though he had received the news of his melancholy fate some time
+before, he was exceedingly affected at the sight of our ships returning
+without their old commander. He appeared much surprised to see our crew in
+so stout and healthy a condition, as the Dutch ship that had left Macao, on
+our arrival there, and had touched at the Cape some time before, reported,
+that we were in a most wretched state, having only fourteen hands left on
+board the Resolution, and seven on board the Discovery. It is not easy to
+conceive the motive these people could have had for propagating so wanton
+and malicious a falsehood.
+
+<p>On the 15th, I accompanied Captain Gore to Cape Town; and, the next
+morning, we waited on Baron Plettenberg, the governor, by whom we were
+received with every possible attention and civility. He had also conceived
+a great personal affection for Captain Cook, as well as the highest
+admiration of his character, and heard the recital of his misfortune, with
+many expressions of unaffected sorrow. In one of the principal apartments
+of the governor's house, he shewed us two pictures, of Van Trump and de
+Ruyter, with a vacant space left between them, which he said he meant to
+fill up with the portrait of Captain Cook; and, for that purpose, he
+requested our assistance when we should arrive in England, in purchasing
+one for him, at any price.
+
+<p>We were afterward informed by the governor, that all the powers at this
+time at war with England had given orders to their cruisers to let us pass
+unmolested. This, as far as related to the French, we had sufficient reason
+to think true; as Mr Brandt had already delivered to Captain Gore, a letter
+from Mr Stephens, inclosing a copy of Mons. de Sartine's orders, taken on
+board the Licorne. With respect to the Americans, the matter still rested
+on report; but Baron Plettenberg assured us, that he had been expressly
+told, by the commander of a Spanish ship, which had touched at the Cape,
+that he, and all the officers of his nation, had received orders to the
+same effect. These assurances confirmed Captain Gore in the resolution he
+had taken of maintaining, on his part, a neutral conduct; and accordingly,
+when on the arrival of the Sybil, to convoy the India ships home, it was
+proposed to him to accompany them on their passage, he thought proper to
+decline an offer, the acceptance of which might, in case we had fallen in
+with any of the enemy's ships, have brought him into a very difficult and
+embarrassing situation.
+
+<p>During our stay at the Cape, we met with every proof of the most friendly
+disposition toward us, both in the governor and principal persons of the
+place, as well Africans as Europeans. At our first arrival, Colonel Gordon,
+the commander of the Dutch forces, with whom I had the happiness of being
+on a footing of intimacy and friendship, was absent on a journey into the
+interior parts of Africa, but returned before our departure. He had, on
+this occasion, penetrated farther up the country than any other traveller
+had done before him, and made great additions to the valuable collection of
+natural curiosities with which he has enriched the museum of the Prince of
+Orange. Indeed, a long residence at the Cape, and the powerful assistance
+he has derived from his rank and situation there, joined to an active and
+indefatigable spirit, and an eager thirst after knowledge, have enabled him
+to acquire a more intimate and perfect knowledge of this part of Africa,
+than could have fallen to the lot of any other person; and it is with great
+pleasure I can congratulate the public on the information I have received
+of his intentions to give the world, from his own-hand, a history of his
+travels.[114]
+
+<blockquote>[114] Query, Was this intention ever realized? The work, supposing it to
+have been published, was never heard of or seen by the writer.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>False Bay, situated to the eastward of the Cape of Good Hope, is frequented
+by shipping during the prevalence of the N.W. winds, which begin to blow in
+May, and make it dangerous to lie in Table Bay. It is terminated on the
+west by the Cape of Good Hope, and on the eastward by False Cape.
+
+<p>The entrance of the bay is six leagues wide, the two capes bearing from
+each other due east and west. About eleven miles from the Cape of Good
+Hope, on the west side, is situated Simon's Bay, the only convenient
+station for ships to lie in; for although the road without it affords good
+anchorage, it is too open, and but ill circumstanced for procuring
+necessaries, the town being small, and supplied with provisions from Cape
+Town, which is about twenty-four miles distant. To the N.N.E. of Simon's
+Bay, there are several others, from which it may be easily distinguished,
+by a remarkable sandy way to the northward of the town, which makes a
+striking object. In steering for the harbour, along the west shore, there
+is a small flat rock, called Noah's Ark, and about a mile to the north-east
+of it, several others, called the Roman Rocks. These lie one mile and a
+half from the anchoring-place; and either between them, or to the northward
+of the Roman Rocks, there is a safe passage into the bay. When the north-
+west gales are set in, the following bearings will direct the mariner to a
+safe and commodious berth: Noah's Ark, S. 51° E., and the centre of the
+hospital, S. 53° W., in seven fathoms. But if the south-east winds have not
+done blowing, it is better to stay further out in eight or nine fathoms.
+The bottom is sandy, and the anchors settle considerably before they get
+hold. All the north part of the bay is low sandy land, but the east side is
+very high. About six miles east of Noah's Ark lies Seal Island, the south
+part of which is said to be dangerous, and not to be approached, with
+safety, nearer than in twenty-two fathoms. Off the Cape of Good Hope are
+many sunk rocks, some of which appear at low water; and others have
+breakers constantly on them.
+
+<p>
+The latitude of the anchoring-place in Simon's
+  Bay, by observation                            34°20'S.
+The longitude                                    18 29 E.
+Dip of the south end of the magnetic needle      46 47
+Variation of the compass                         22 16 W.
+
+<p>
+On the full and change days, it was high-water at 5^h 55^m apparent time;
+the tide rose and fell five feet five inches; at the neap tides, it rose
+four feet one inch.
+
+<p>From the observations taken by Mr Bayley and myself, on the 11th of this
+month, when the Cape of Good Hope bore due west, we found its latitude to
+be 34° 23' S., which is 4' to the northward of its position, as determined
+by the Abbé de la Caille.
+
+<p>Having completed our victualling, and furnished ourselves with the
+necessary supply of naval stores, we sailed out of the bay on the 9th of
+May, and on the 14th, we got into the south-east trade-wind, and steered to
+the westward of the islands of St Helena and Ascension. On the 31st, being
+in latitude 12° 48' S., longitude 15° 40' W., the magnetic needle was found
+to have no dip.
+
+<p>On the 12th of June, we passed the equator for the fourth time during this
+voyage, in longitude 26° 16' W. We now began to perceive the effects of a
+current setting N. by E., half a knot an hour. It continued in this
+direction till the middle of July, when it began to set a little to the
+southward of the west.
+
+<p>On the 12th of August, we made the western coast of Ireland, and after a
+fruitless attempt to get into Port Galway, from whence it was Captain
+Gore's intentions to have sent the journals and maps of our voyage to
+London, we were obliged, by strong southerly winds, to steer to the
+northward. Our next object was to put into Lough Swilly; but the wind
+continuing in the same quarter, we stood on to the northward of Lewis
+Island; and on the 22d of August, at eleven in the morning, both ships came
+to an anchor at Stromness. From hence, I was dispatched by Captain Gore, to
+acquaint the Board of Admiralty with our arrival; and on the 4th day of
+October the ships arrived safe at the Nore, after an absence of four years,
+two months, and twenty-two days.
+
+<p>On quitting the Discovery at Stromness, I had the satisfaction of leaving
+the whole crew in perfect health; and at the same time, the number of
+convalescents on board the Resolution did not exceed two or three, of whom
+only one was incapable of service. In the course of our voyage, the
+Resolution lost but five men by sickness, three of whom were in a
+precarious state of health at our departure from England; the Discovery did
+not lose a man. An unremitting attention to the regulations established by
+Captain Cook, with which the world is already acquainted, may be justly
+considered as the principal cause, under the blessing of Divine Providence,
+of this singular success. But the baneful effects of salt provisions might
+perhaps, in the end, have been felt, notwithstanding these salutary
+precautions, if we had not assisted them, by availing ourselves of every
+substitute, our situation at various times afforded. These frequently
+consisting of articles, which our people had not been used to consider as
+food for men, and being sometimes exceedingly nauseous, it required the
+joint aid of persuasion, authority, and example, to conquer their
+prejudices and disgusts.
+
+<p>The preventives we principally relied on were sour krout and portable soup.
+As to the antiscorbutic remedies, with which we were amply supplied, we had
+no opportunity of trying their effects, as there did not appear the
+slightest symptoms of the scurvy, in either ship, during the whole voyage.
+Our malt and hops had also been kept as a resource, in case of actual
+sickness; and on examination at the Cape of Good Hope, were found entirely
+spoiled. About the same time, were opened some casks of biscuit, flour,
+malt, pease, oatmeal, and groats, which, by way of experiment, had been put
+up in small casks, lined with tin-trail, and found all, except the pease,
+in a much better state, than could have been expected in the usual manner
+of package.
+
+<p>I cannot neglect this opportunity of recommending to the consideration of
+government, the necessity of allowing a sufficient quantity of Peruvian
+bark, to such of his majesty's ships as may be exposed to the influence of
+unwholesome climates. It happened very fortunately in the Discovery, that
+only one of the men that had fevers in the Straits of Sunda, stood in need
+of this medicine, as he alone consumed the whole quantity usually carried
+out by surgeons, in such vessels as ours. Had more been affected in the
+same manner, they would probably all have perished, from the want of the
+only remedy capable of affording them effectual relief.
+
+<p>Another circumstance attending this voyage, which, if we consider its
+duration, and the nature of the service in which we were engaged, will
+appear scarcely less singular than the extraordinary healthiness of the
+crews, was, that the two ships never lost sight of each other for a day
+together, except twice; which was owing, the first time, to an accident
+that happened to the Discovery off the coast of Owhyhee; and the second, to
+the fogs we met with at the entrance of Awatska Bay. A stronger proof
+cannot be given of the skill and vigilance of our subaltern officers, to
+whom this share of merit almost entirely belongs.
+
+<h2><a name="vocab" id="vocab">VOCABULARY OF THE LANGUAGE OF NOOTKA, OR KING GEORGE'S SOUND.</a></h2>
+
+<p><i>April</i>, 1778.
+
+<pre>
+        <i>Nootka</i>.            English.
+
+Opulszthl,                    <i>The sun</i>.
+Onulszthl,                    <i>The moon</i>.
+Nas, <i>or</i> eenaeehl nas,       <i>The sky</i>.
+Noohchai,                     <i>A mountain</i>, or <i>hill</i>.
+Mooksee,                      <i>Rocks</i>, or <i>the shore</i>.
+Tanass, <i>or</i> tanas,           <i>A man</i>.
+Oonook,                       <i>A song</i>.
+Eeneek, <i>or</i> eleek,           <i>Fire</i>.
+Nuhchee, <i>or</i> nookchee        <i>The land; a country</i>.
+Koassama,                     <i>The ground</i>.
+Mahtai,                       <i>A house</i>.
+Neit, <i>or</i> neet,              <i>A candle</i>, or <i>lamp light</i>.
+Neetopok,                     <i>The smoke of a lamp</i>.
+Tassyai,                      <i>A door</i>.
+Ai, <i>and</i> aio,                <i>Yes</i>.
+Wook, <i>or</i> Wik,               <i>No</i>.
+Wik ait,                      <i>None, not any</i>.
+Macook,                       <i>To barter</i>.
+Kaeeemai, <i>or</i> kyomai         <i>Give me some more of it</i>.
+Kootche, <i>or</i> kotche          <i>To paddle</i>.
+Aook, <i>or</i> chiamis,           <i>To eat, to chew</i>.
+Topalszthl, <i>or</i>              <i>The sea</i>.
+   toopilszthl,
+Oowhabbe,                     <i>A paddle</i>.
+Shapata, <i>or</i> shapitz,        <i>A canoe</i>.
+   <i>or</i> chapas,
+Tawailuck,                    <i>White bugle beads</i>.
+Seekemaile,                   <i>Iron</i>, or <i>metal of any sort</i>.
+Ahkoo, <i>or</i> ahko,             <i>This</i>.
+Kaa, <i>or</i> kaa chelle,         <i>Give it me, let me look at it</i>,
+                                  or <i>examine it</i>?
+Wook hak                      <i>Will he not do it</i>?
+Ma, <i>or</i> maa,                 <i>Take it</i>.
+Chakeuk,                      <i>A hatchet</i>, or <i>hacking tool</i>.
+Eetche, <i>or</i> abeesh,          <i>Displeasure</i>.
+Hahoome, <i>or</i> haooma,         <i>Food</i>.
+Takho,                        <i>Bad. This iron is bad</i>, takho seekemaile.
+Chelle,                       <i>I, me</i>.
+Kaeeo,                        <i>Broken</i>.
+Alle, <i>or</i> alla,              (Speaking to one) <i>Friend; hark ye</i>.
+Klao appe, <i>or</i> klao,         <i>Keep it; I'll not have it</i>.
+Asko,                         <i>Long</i>, or <i>large</i>.
+Iakooeshmaish,                <i>Clothing in general</i>.
+Tahquoe, <i>or</i> toohquoe,       <i>A metal button</i>, or <i>ear-ring</i>.
+Wae,                          (Calling to one, perhaps) <i>you</i>!
+Weekeetateesh,                <i>Sparkling sand, which they
+                                  sprinkle on their faces</i>.
+Chauk,                        <i>Water</i>.
+Pacheetl, <i>or</i> pachatl,       <i>To give; give me</i>.
+Haweelsth, <i>or</i> hawalth,      <i>Friendship; friend</i>.
+Kleeseetl,                    <i>To paint</i>, or <i>mark with a pencil</i>.
+Abeetzle,                     <i>To go away</i>, or <i>depart</i>.
+Sheesookto,                   <i>To remain</i>, or <i>abide</i>.
+Seeaik,                       <i>A stone weapon, with a square point</i>.
+Suhyaik,                      <i>A spear, pointed with bone</i>.
+Taak,                         <i>The wood of the depending pine</i>.
+Luksheer, <i>or</i> luksheetl,     <i>To drink</i>.
+Soochis,                      <i>A tree, a wood</i>.
+Haieeaipt,                    <i>A broad leaf, shrub</i>, or <i>underwood</i>.
+Tohumbeet,                    <i>Variegated pine; silver pine</i>.
+Atheu,                        <i>The depending pine</i>; or <i>cypress</i>.
+Koeeklipt,                    <i>The Canadian pine</i>.
+Cho,                          <i>Go</i>.
+Sateu,                        <i>A pine-top</i>.
+Kleeteenek,                   <i>The little cloak that they wear</i>.
+Kleethak,                     <i>A bear's skin</i>.
+Klochimme,                    <i>Muscles</i>.
+Ohkullik,                     <i>A wooden box they hold things in</i>.
+Hislaiakasl, <i>or</i>             <i>Coarse mats of bark</i>.
+   slaikalzth,
+Eesee,                        <i>An instrument of bone to beat bark</i>.
+Chapuz koole,                 <i>The model of a canoe</i>.
+Klapatuketeel,                <i>A bag made of mat</i>.
+Tahmis,                       <i>To spit; spittle</i>.
+Wasuksheet,                   <i>To cough</i>.
+Poop,                         <i>Common moss</i>.
+Okumha,                       <i>The wind</i>.
+Chutzquabeelsl,               <i>A bag made of seal skin</i>.
+Konneeemis,                   <i>A kind of sea weed</i>.
+Quaookl, <i>or</i>                 <i>To sit down</i>.
+   tookpeetl,
+Klukeeszthl, <i>or</i>             <i>To rise up</i>.
+   quoeelszlhl,
+Tsookeeats,                   <i>To walk</i>.
+Kummutchchutl,                <i>To run</i>.
+Klutsklaee,                   <i>To strike, or beat</i>.
+Teeshcheetl,                  <i>To throw a stone</i>.
+Teelszhtee,                   <i>To rub</i>, or <i>sharpen metal</i>.
+Tsook,                        <i>To cleave</i>, or <i>strike hard</i>.
+Mahkatte,                     <i>A small liliaceous root, which they eat</i>.
+Eumahtame,                    <i>Fur of a sea-otter</i>.
+Cheemaine,                    <i>Their largest fishing-hooks</i>.
+Moostatte,                    <i>A bow</i>.
+Kahsheetl,                    <i>Dead</i>.
+Kleeshsheetl,                 <i>To shoot with a bow</i>.
+Tseehattee,                   <i>An arrow</i>.
+Katshak,                      <i>A flaxen garment, worn as their common
+                                  dress</i>.
+
+Heshcheene,                   <i>A plain</i> Venus <i>shell</i>.
+Koohminne,                    <i>A bag rattle</i>.
+Akeeuk,                       <i>A plain bone point for striking
+                                  seals with</i>.
+Kaheita,                      <i>A barbed bone point for ditto</i>.
+Cheetakulheiwha,              <i>Bracelets of white bugle beads</i>.
+Mittemulszth,                 <i>Thongs of skin worn about the
+                                  wrist and neck</i>.
+Iaiopox,                      <i>Pieces of copper worn in the ear</i>.
+Neesksheetl,                  <i>To sneeze</i>.
+Suchkas,                      <i>A comb</i>.
+Seehl,                        <i>Small feathers which they strew
+                                  on their heads</i>.
+Wamuhte,                      <i>Twisted thongs and sinews,
+                                  worn about their ankles</i>.
+Kutseeoataia,                 <i>Veins under the skin</i>.
+Tookquuk,                     <i>The skin</i>.
+Muszthsle,                    <i>Pain</i>.
+Waeetch,                      <i>To sleep</i>.
+Siksaimaha,                   <i>To breathe</i>, or <i>pant</i>.
+Tuhsheetl,                    <i>To weep</i>.
+Matskoot,                     <i>A fly</i>.
+Matook,                       <i>To fly</i>.
+Kooees; <i>or</i>                  <i>Snow</i>, or <i>hail</i>.
+   quoees,
+Aopk,                         <i>To whistle</i>.
+Asheeatksheetl,               <i>To yawn</i>.
+Elsthltleek,                  <i>An instrument of two sticks standing
+                                  from each other with barbs</i>.
+Cheeeeakis,                   <i>A scar of a wound</i>.
+Tchoo,                        <i>Throw it down</i>, or <i>to me</i>.
+Cheetkoohekai, <i>or</i>           <i>A wooden instrument, with many bone teeth,
+   Cheetkoaik,                    to catch small fish with</i>.
+Kaenne, <i>or</i> Koenai,          <i>A crow; a bird</i>.
+Keesapa,                      <i>A fish; a white bream</i>.
+Klaamoo,                      <i>A bream striped with blue and gold
+                                  colours</i>.
+Taaweesh, <i>or</i>                <i>A stone-weapon</i>, or <i>tomahawk,
+   Tsuskeeah,                     with a wooden handle</i>.
+Kamaisthlik,                  <i>A kind of snare to catch fish, or other
+                                  animals with</i>.
+Klahma,                       <i>Wing feathers of a red bird</i>.
+Seetsaennuk,                  <i>Anger; scolding</i>.
+Heeeai, <i>or</i> Heeeee,          <i>A brown streaked snake</i>.
+Klapissime,                   <i>A racoon</i>.
+Owatinne,                     <i>A white-headed eagle</i>.
+Kluhmiss,                     <i>Train oil; a bladder filled with it</i>.
+Oukkooma,                     <i>Large carved wooden-faces</i>.
+Kotyook, <i>or</i> Hotyok,         <i>A knife</i>.
+See eema,                     <i>A fishing net</i>.
+Weena,                        <i>A stranger</i>.
+Quahmiss,                     <i>Fish-roe strewed upon pine-branches and
+                                  sea-weed</i>.
+Kaatl,                        <i>Give me</i>.
+Hooksquaboolsthl,             <i>A whale-harpoon and rope</i>.
+Komook,                       <i>Chimæra monstrosa</i>.
+Quotluk, <i>or</i>                 <i>A sea-otter's skin</i>.
+   Quotlukac,
+Maasenusthl,                  <i>An oblong wooden weapon, two feet long</i>.
+Hokooma,                      <i>A wooden mask of the human face</i>.
+Tooquacumilsthl,              <i>A seal-skin</i>.
+Cha,                          <i>Let me see it</i>.
+Sooma,                        <i>A kind of haddock, of a reddish brown
+                                  colour</i>.
+Aeea,                         <i>A sardine</i>.
+Koeetsak,                     <i>A wolf-skin dress</i>.
+Keepsleetokszl,               <i>A woollen garment</i>.
+Isseu,                        <i>Pine-bark</i>.
+Wanshee,                      <i>Wildcat skin</i>(lynx brunneus).
+Chastimmetz,                  <i>A common, and also pine-martin</i>.
+Ookoomillszthl,               <i>A little round wooden cup</i>.
+Koomitz,                      <i>A human skull</i>.
+Keehlwahmoot,                 <i>A skin-bladder used in fishing</i>.
+Tseeapoox,                    <i>A conic cap made of mat, worn on the head</i>.
+Summeto,                      <i>A squirrel; they also called a rat by this
+                                  name</i>.
+Maalszthl,                    <i>A deer's horn</i>.
+Jakops,                       <i>A man, or male</i>.
+Kolsheetl, <i>or</i> Kolsheat,     <i>To sup with a spoon</i>.
+Achatla, <i>or</i> Achaklak,       <i>What is your name</i>?
+Achatlaha,                    <i>What is his name</i>?
+Akassheha, <i>or</i> Akassche,     <i>What is the name of that</i>?
+Haismussik,                   <i>A wooden sabre</i>.
+Maeetsalulsthl,               <i>A bone weapon, like the Patoo</i>.
+Kookelixo,                    <i>A fish fin; the hand</i>.
+Natcha,                       <i>A fish tail</i>.
+Klihkleek,                    <i>The hoof of an animal</i>.
+Klaklasm,                     <i>A bracelet</i>.
+Ko,                           <i>An article, to give strength of expression
+                                  to another word</i>.
+Nahei, <i>or</i> Naheis,           <i>Friendship</i>.
+Teelsthoop,                   <i>A large cuttle fish</i>.
+Pachas,                       <i>He gave it me</i>.
+Quaeeaitsaak,                 <i>A yellow, or red fox</i>.
+Atchakoe,                     <i>A limpet</i>.
+Aheita,                       <i>A sweet fern root they eat</i>.
+Kishkilltup,                  <i>The strawberry plant</i>.
+Akhmupt,                      <i>A narrow grass that grows on the rocks</i>.
+Klaiwahmiss,                  <i>A cloud</i>.
+Mollsthapait,                 <i>A feather</i>.
+Taeetcha,                     <i>Full, satisfied with eating</i>.
+Kaaitz,                       <i>A necklace of small volute shells</i>.
+Tahooquossim,                 <i>A carved human head of wood, decorated with
+                                  hair</i>.
+Moowatche,                    <i>A caned wooden vizor, like the head of a
+                                  Quebrentahuessos</i>.
+Mamat,                        <i>A black linnet with a white bill</i>.
+Klaokotl,                     <i>Give me something</i>.
+Pallszthpatl,                 <i>Glimmer (sheet)</i>.
+Pineetl,                      <i>The name they apply to a goat; probably of
+                                  a deer</i>.
+Seeta,                        <i>The tail of an animal</i>.
+Seehsheetl,                   <i>To kill</i>.
+Ooolszth,                     <i>A sandpiper</i>.
+Saeemitz,                     <i>Chequered straw-baskets</i>.
+Chookwak,                     <i>To go up</i>, or <i>away</i>.
+Kloosasht,                    <i>Smoked herrings</i>.
+Keetsma,                      <i>Puncturation</i>.
+Mikeellzyth,                  <i>To fasten</i>, or <i>tie a thing</i>.
+Cheeteeakamilzsth,            <i>White beads</i>.
+Kakkumipt,                    <i>A sea-weed</i>, or <i>grass, on which they
+strew fish-roe</i>.
+Eissuk,                       <i>A sort of leek</i>; allium triquetrum.
+Kutskushilzsth,               <i>To tear a thing</i>.
+Mitzsleo,                     <i>A knot</i>.
+Mamakeeo,                     <i>To tie a knot</i>.
+Kluksilzsth,                  <i>To loosen</i>, or <i>untie</i>.
+Klakaikom,                    <i>The leaf of a plant</i>.
+Sasinne, <i>or</i> sasin,          <i>A humming-bird</i>.
+Koohquoppa,                   <i>A granulated lily-root they eat</i>.
+Seeweebt,                     <i>Alder-tree</i>.
+Kaweebt,                      <i>Raspberry-bush</i>.
+Kleehseep,                    <i>The flower of a plant</i>.
+Klumma,                       <i>Large wooden images placed at one end of
+                                  their houses</i>.
+Aiahtoop, <i>or</i>                <i>A porpoise</i>.
+   Aiahtoopsh,
+Toshko,                       <i>A small brown spotted cod</i>.
+Aszlimupt, <i>or</i>               <i>Flaxen stuff, of which they make their
+   Ulszthimipt,                   garments</i>.
+Wakash,                       <i>An expression of approbation</i>, or
+                                  <i>friendship</i>.
+Kullekeea,                    <i>Troughs out of which they eat</i>.
+Kaots,                        <i>A twig-basket</i>.
+Sllook,                       <i>The roof of a house; boards</i>.
+Eilszthmukt,                  <i>Nettles</i>.
+Koeeklass,                    <i>A wooden stage</i>, or <i>frame, on which the
+                                  fish-roe is dried</i>.
+Matlieu,                      <i>A withe of bark for fastening planks</i>.
+Nahass,                       <i>A circular hole that serves as a window</i>.
+Neetsoanimme,                 <i>Large planks of which their houses are
+                                  built</i>.
+Chaipma,                      <i>Straw</i>.
+Haquanuk,                     <i>A chest, or large box</i>.
+Chahkots,                     <i>A square wooden bucket, to hold water</i>.
+Chahquanna,                   <i>A square wooden drinking-cup</i>.
+Klennut,                      <i>A wooden wedge</i>.
+Kolkolsainum,                 <i>A large chest</i>.
+Klieutsunnim,                 <i>A board to kneel on when they paddle</i>.
+Tseelszthook,                 <i>A frame of square poles</i>.
+Aminulszth,                   <i>A fish</i>.
+Natckkoa <i>and</i>                <i>The particular names of two of the
+  Matseeta,                       monstrous images called Klumma</i>.
+Houa,                         <i>To go that way</i>.
+Achichil,                     <i>What does he say</i>?
+Aeek,                         <i>The oval part of a whale dart</i>.
+Aptsheetl,                    <i>To steal</i>.
+Quoeeup,                      <i>To break</i>.
+Uhshsapai,                    <i>To pull</i>.
+Tseehka,                      <i>A general song</i>.
+Apte, <i>or</i> appe,              <i>You</i>.
+Kai,                          <i>Thanks</i>
+Kotl,                         <i>Me; I</i>.
+Punihpunih,                   <i>A black beating-stone</i>.
+Nootka,                       <i>The name of the bay or sound</i>.
+
+Yatseenequoppe,
+Kakallakeeheelook,            <i>The names of three men</i>.
+Nololokum,
+
+Satsuhcheek,                  <i>The name of a woman</i>.
+
+
+       *        *       *       *       *      *
+
+
+      NAMES OF DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE BODY.
+
+Ooomitz,                      <i>The head</i>.
+Apsoop,                       <i>The hair of the head</i>.
+Uhpeukel, <i>or</i> upuppea,       <i>The forehead</i>.
+Cheecheetsh,                  <i>The teeth</i>.
+Choop,                        <i>The tongue</i>.
+Kussee, <i>or</i> kassee,          <i>The eye</i>.
+Neets,                        <i>The nose</i>.
+Papai,                        <i>The ear</i>.
+Aamiss,                       <i>The cheek</i>.
+Eehthlux,                     <i>The chin</i>.
+Apuxim,                       <i>The beard</i>.
+Tseekoomitz,                  <i>The neck</i>.
+Seekutz,                      <i>The throat</i>.
+Eslulszth,                    <i>The face</i>.
+Eethluxooth,                  <i>The lips</i>.
+Klooshkcoah, klah, tamai,     <i>The nostrils</i>.
+Aeetchse,                     <i>The eye-brows</i>.
+Aapso,                        <i>The arm</i>.
+Aapsoonilk,                   <i>The arm-pit</i>.
+Eneema,                       <i>The nipple</i>.
+Kooquainux, <i>or</i>              <i>The fingers</i>.
+   Kooquainuxoo,
+Chushehuh,                    <i>Nail of the finger</i>.
+Kleashklinno,                 <i>The thighs and leg</i>.
+Klahtimme,                    <i>The foot</i>.
+Alahkomeetz,                  <i>The thumb</i>.
+Kopeeak,                      <i>The fore finger</i>.
+Taeeai,                       <i>The middle finger</i>.
+Oatso, <i>or</i> akhukluc,         <i>The ring finger</i>.
+Kasleka,                      <i>The little finger</i>.
+</pre>
+
+<h2><a name="table" id="table">TABLE to shew the Affinity between the Languages spoken at Oonalashka and
+Norton Sound, and those of the Green landers and Esquimaux.</a></h2>
+
+<pre>
+                                          <i>Greenland</i>.
+  English.   <i>Oonalashka. Norton Sound. From Grants. Esquimaux</i>.
+<i>A man</i>       Chengan                      Angut.
+<i>A woman</i>     Anagogenach.
+<i>The head</i>    Kameak                                    Ne-aw-cock.
+<i>The hair</i>    Emelach        Nooit                      Newrock.
+<i>The eye-brow</i> Kamlik        Kameluk                    Coup-loot.
+<i>The eye</i>     Dhac           Enga                       Ehich.
+<i>The nose</i>    Anosche        Ngha                       Cring yauk.
+<i>The cheek</i>   Oolooeik       Oollooak                   Ou-lu uck-cur.
+<i>The ear</i>     Tootoosh       Shudeka                    Se-u-teck.
+<i>The lip</i>     Adhee          Hashlaw.
+<i>The teeth</i>   Agaloo.
+<i>The tongue</i>  Agonoc.
+<i>The beard</i>   Engelagoong    Oongai.
+<i>The chin</i>    Ismaloch       Tamluk                     Taplou.
+<i>The neck</i>    Ooioc                                     Coon-e-soke.
+<i>The breast</i>  Shimsen                                   Suk-ke-uck.
+<i>The arm</i>     Toolak         Dallek                     Telluck.
+<i>The hand</i>    Kedhachoonge   Aishet                     Alguit.
+<i>The finger</i>  Atooch.
+<i>The nails</i>   Cagelch        Shetooe.
+<i>The thigh</i>   Cachemac       Kookdoshac.
+<i>The leg</i>     Ketac          Kanaiak                    Ki-naw-auk.
+<i>The foot</i>    Ooleac         Etscheak                   E-te-ket.
+<i>The sun</i>     Agadac         Maje                       Suck-ki much.
+<i>The moon</i>    Toogedha.                                 Tac-cock.
+<i>The sky</i>     Enacac.
+<i>A cloud</i>     Aiengich.
+<i>The wind</i>    Caitchee.
+<i>The sea</i>     Alaooch        Emai                       Ut-koo-tuk-
+                                                        les.
+<i>Water</i>       Tangch         Mooe.
+<i>Fire</i>        Keiganach                                 E-ko-ma.
+<i>Wood</i>        Hearach.
+<i>A knife</i>     Kamelac.
+<i>A house</i>     Oolac                        Iglo         Tope-uck.
+<i>A canoe</i>     Eakeac         Caiac         Kaiak        Kirock.
+<i>A paddle</i>    Chasec         Pangehon      Pautik       Pow.
+<i>Iron</i>        Comeleuch      Shawik.                    Shaveck.
+<i>A bow</i>       Seiech.                                   Petick sic.
+<i>Arrows</i>      Agadhok.                                  Caukjuck.
+<i>Darts</i>       Ogwalook                     Aglikak.
+<i>A fish-hook</i> Oochtac.
+<i>No</i>          Net          Ena            Nag.
+<i>Yes</i>, or <i>yea</i> Ah         Eh             Illisve.
+<i>One</i>         Taradac      Adowjak        Attousek      Attouset.
+<i>Two</i>         Alac         Aiba           Arlak         Mardluk.
+<i>Three</i>       Canoogn      Pingashook     Pingaguah     Pingasut.
+<i>Four</i>        Sechn        Shetamik       Sissamat      Sissamat.
+<i>Five</i>        Chang        Dallamix       Tellimat      Tellimat.
+<i>Six</i>         Atoo         In counting                  Arbanget.
+                           more than
+                           five, they
+<i>Seven</i>       Ooloo        repeat the                 / Arbanget.
+                           same words                 \ Attausek.
+                           over again.
+<i>Eight</i>       Kamching                                  Arbanget
+                                                        mardik.
+<i>Nine</i>        Seching                                   Kollin illoet.
+<i>Ten</i>         Haso                                      Kollit.
+
+</pre>
+
+<h2><a name="appendix1" id="appendix1">APPENDIX TO THE CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS.</a></h2>
+
+<p>NARRATIVE OF THE HON. JOHN BYRON; BEING AN ACCOUNT OF THE SHIPWRECK OF THE
+WAGER; AND THE SUBSEQUENT ADVENTURES OF HER CREW.
+
+<p>WRITTEN BY HIMSELF.
+
+<p>No. I.
+
+<h3>THE NARRATIVE OF THE HON. JOHN BYRON.</h3>
+
+<p><b>THE AUTHOR'S PREFACE.</b>
+
+<p>As the greatest pain I feel in committing the following sheets to the
+press, arises from an apprehension that many of my readers will accuse me
+of egotism, I will not incur that charge in my preface, by detaining them
+with the reasons which have induced me, at this time, to yield to the
+desire of my friends. It is equally indifferent to the public to be told
+how it happened, that nothing should have got the better of my indolence
+and reluctance to comply with the same requests, for the space of twenty
+years.
+
+<p>I will employ these few introductory pages merely to shew what pretensions
+this work may have to the notice of the world, after those publications
+which have preceded it.
+
+<p>It is well known that the Wager, one of Lord Anson's squadron, was cast
+away upon a desolate island in the South-seas. The subject of this book is
+a relation of the extraordinary difficulties and hardships through which,
+by the assistance of Divine Providence, a small part of her crew escaped to
+their native land; and a very small proportion of those made their way, in
+a new and unheard-of manner, over a large and desert tract of land, between
+the western mouth of Magellanic Streight and the capital of Chili; a
+country scarce to be paralleled in any part of the globe, in that it
+affords neither fruits, grain, nor even roots proper for the sustenance of
+man; and, what is still more rare, the very sea, which yields a plentiful
+support to many a barren coast, on this tempestuous and inhospitable shore
+is found to be almost as barren as the land; and it must be confessed, that
+to those who cannot interest themselves with seeing human nature labouring,
+from day to day, to preserve its existence under the continual want of such
+real necessaries, as food and shelter from the most rigorous climate, the
+following sheets will afford but little entertainment.
+
+<p>Yet, after all, it must be allowed there can be no other way of
+ascertaining the geography and natural history of a country, which is
+altogether morass and a rock, incapable of products or culture, than by
+setting down every minute circumstance which was observed in traversing it.
+The same may be said of the inhabitants, their manners, religion, and
+language. What fruits could an European reap from a more intimate
+acquaintance with them, than what he will find in the following accidental
+observations? We saw the most unprofitable spot on the globe of the earth,
+and such it is described and ascertained to be.
+
+<p>It is to be hoped, some little amends may be made by such an insight as is
+given into the interior part of the Country; and I find what I have put
+down has had the good fortune to be pleasing to some of my friends;
+insomuch, that the only fault I have yet had laid to my papers is, that of
+being too short in the article of the Spanish settlements. But here I must
+say, I have been dubious of the partiality of my friends; and, as I think,
+justly fearful lest the world in general, who may perhaps find compassion
+and indulgence for a protracted tale of distress, may not give the same
+allowance to a luxurious imagination triumphing in a change of fortune, and
+sudden transition from the most dismal to the gayest scenes in the
+universe, and thereby indulging an egotism equally offensive to the envious
+and censorious.
+
+<p>I speak as briefly as possible of matters previous to our final separation
+from the rest of Lord Anson's squadron; for it is from this epocha that the
+train of our misfortunes properly commences: and though Mr Bulkeley, one of
+the warrant officers of the Wager, has, long since, published a Journal and
+Account of the return of that part of the ship's company, which, dissenting
+from Captain Cheap's propoposal of endeavouring to regain their native
+country by way of the great continent of South America, took their passage
+home in the long-boat, through the Streights of Magellan, our transactions
+during our abode on the island have been related by him in so concise a
+manner, as to leave many particulars unnoticed, and others touched so
+slightly, that they appear evidently to have been put together with the
+purpose of justifying those proceedings which could not be considered in
+any other light than that of direct mutiny. Accordingly, we find that the
+main substance of his Journal is employed in scrutinizing the conduct of
+Captain Cheap, and setting forth the conferences which passed between him
+and the seceders, relative to the way and measures they were to take for
+their return home. I have, therefore, taken some pains to review those
+early passages of the unfortunate scene I am to represent, and to enter
+into a detail, without which no sound judgment can be formed of any
+disputed point, especially when it has been carried so far as to end in
+personal resentment. When contests and dissensions shall be found to have
+gone that length, it will be obvious to every reader, why a licentious crew
+should hearken to any factious leader, rather than to the solidity of their
+captain's advice, who made it evident to every unprejudiced understanding,
+that their fairest chance for safety and a better fortune, was to proceed
+with the long-boat till they should make prize of some vessel of the enemy,
+and thereby be enabled to bring to the commodore a supply of stout fellows
+to assist in his conquests, and share in the honour and rewards.
+
+<p>And yet it is but justice, even to this ungovernable herd, to explain, that
+though, as I have said above, they appeared in the light of mutineers, they
+were not actually such in the eye of the law; for, till a subsequent act,
+made indeed on this occasion, the pay of a ship's crew ceased immediately
+upon her wreck, and consequently the officers' authority and command.
+
+<p>Having explained the foregoing particulars, I hope I may flatter myself,
+there are few things in the following sheets which will not be readily
+understood by the greatest part of my readers; therefore I will not detain
+them any longer.[115]
+
+<blockquote>[115] Bulkeley's narrative above referred to, and which certainly deserves
+    to be better known than it now is, will be found in this Appendix, No.
+    2. The impartial reader, it is believed, will hesitate to join with
+    Byron in opinion as to the motives which occasioned its publication;
+    nor is it unimportant for him to recollect, that Byron himself at one
+    time sanctioned the chief measures and sentiments which Bulkeley and
+    his associates adopted.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<h2><a name="ch1" id="ch1">CHAPTER I.</a></h2>
+
+<p>Account of the Wager and her Equipment.--Captain Kid's Death.--Succeeded by
+Captain Cheap.--Our Disasters commence with our Voyage.--We lose Sight of
+our Squadron in a Gale of Wind.--Dreadful Storm.--Ship strikes.
+
+<p>The equipment and destination of the squadron fitted out in the year 1740,
+of which Commodore Anson had the command, being sufficiently known from the
+ample and well-penned relation of it under his direction, I shall recite no
+particulars that are to be found in that work. But it may be necessary, for
+the better understanding the disastrous fate of the Wager, the subject of
+the following sheets, to repeat the remark, that a strange infatuation
+seemed to prevail in the whole conduct of this embarkation: For though it
+was unaccountably detained till the season for its sailing was past, no
+proper use was made of that time, which should have been employed in
+providing a suitable force of sailors and soldiery; nor was there a due
+attention given to other requisites for so peculiar and extensive a
+destination.
+
+<p>This neglect not only rendered the expedition abortive in its principal
+object, but most materially affected the condition of each particular ship,
+and none so fatally as the Wager, who being an old Indiaman, bought into
+the service upon this occasion, was now fitted out as a man of war: But
+being made to serve as a store-ship, was deeply laden with all kinds of
+careening geer, military, and other stores, for the use of the other ships;
+and what is more, crowded, with bale-goods, and incumbered with
+merchandize. A ship of this quality and condition could not be expected to
+work with that readiness and ease which was necessary for her security and
+preservation in those heavy seas which she was to encounter. Her crew
+consisted of men pressed from long voyages to be sent upon a distant and
+hazardous service; on the other hand, all her land-forces were no more than
+a poor detachment of infirm and decrepid invalids from Chelsea hospital,
+desponding under the apprehensions of a long voyage. It is not then to be
+wondered, that Captain Kid, under whose command this ship sailed out of the
+port, should in his last moments presage her ill success, though nothing
+very material happened during his command.
+
+<p>At his death he was succeeded by Captain Cheap, who still, without any
+accident, kept company with the squadron till we had almost gained the
+southernmost mouth of Straits Le Maire; when, being the sternmost ship, we
+were, by the sudden shifting of the wind to the southward, and the turn of
+the tide, very near being wrecked upon the rocks of Staten Land; which,
+notwithstanding, having weathered, contrary to the expectation of the rest
+of the squadron, we endeavoured all in our power to make up our lost way,
+and regain our station. This we effected, and proceeded in our voyage,
+keeping company with the rest of the ships for some time, when by a great
+roll of a hollow sea we carried away our mizen-mast, all the chain-plates
+to windward being broken. Soon after, hard gales at west coming on with a
+prodigious swell, there broke a heavy sea in upon the ship, which stove our
+boats, and filled us for some time.
+
+<p>These accidents were the more disheartening, as our carpenter was on board
+the Gloucester, and detained there by the incessant tempestuous weather,
+and a sea impracticable for boats. In a few days he returned, and supplied
+the loss of a mizen-mast by a lower studding-sail boom; but this expedient,
+together with the patching up of our rigging, was a poor temporary relief
+to us. We were soon obliged to cut away our best bower-anchor to ease the
+fore-mast, the shrouds and chain-plates of which were all broken, and the
+ship in all parts in a most crazy condition.
+
+<p>Thus shattered and disabled, a single ship, (for we had now lost sight of
+our squadron) we had the additional mortification to find ourselves bearing
+for the land on our lee-shore, having thus far persevered in the course we
+held, from an error in conjecture: For the weather was unfavourable for
+observation, and there are no charts of that part of the coast. When those
+officers who first perceived their mistake endeavoured to persuade the
+captain to alter his course, and bear away, for the greater surety, to the
+westward, he persisted in making directly, as he thought, for the island of
+Socoro; and to such as dared from time to time to deliver their doubts of
+being entangled with the land stretching to the westward, he replied, That
+he thought himself in no case at liberty to deviate from his orders, and
+that the absence of his ship from the first place of rendezvous would
+entirely frustrate the whole squadron in the first object of their attack,
+and possibly decide upon the fortune of the whole expedition. For the
+better understanding the force of his reasoning, it is necessary to
+explain, that the island of Socoro is in the neighbourhood of Baldivia, the
+capture of which place could not be effected without the junction of that
+ship, which carried the ordnance and military stores.
+
+<p>The knowledge of the great importance of giving so early and unexpected a
+blow to the Spaniards, determined the captain to make the shortest way to
+the point in view; and that rigid adherence to orders, from which he
+thought himself in no case at liberty to depart, begot in him a stubborn
+defiance of all difficulties, and took away from him those apprehensions
+which so justly alarmed all such as, from ignorance of the orders, had
+nothing present to their minds but the dangers of a lee-shore.[116]
+
+<blockquote>[116] Captain Cheap has been suspected of a design of going on the Spanish
+coast without the commodore; but no part of his conduct seems to
+authorize, in the least, such a suspicion. The author who brings this
+heavy charge against him, is equally mistaken in imagining that
+Captain Cheap had not instructions to sail to this island, and that
+the commodore did neither go nor send thither to inform himself if any
+of the squadron were there. This appears from the orders delivered to
+the captains of the squadron the day before they sailed from St
+Catherine's (L. Anson's Voyage, vol. xi, p. 267,); from the orders of
+the council on board the Centurion in the bay of St Julian, (p. 276,)
+and from the conduct of the commodore, (p. 305,) who cruized (with the
+utmost hazard) more than a fortnight off the island of Socoro, and
+along the coast in its neighbourhood. It was the second rendezvous at
+Baldivia, and not that at Socoro, that the commodore was forced by
+necessity to neglect.</blockquote>
+
+<p>We had for some time been sensible of our approach to the land, from no
+other token than those of weeds and birds, which are the usual indications
+of nearing the coast; but at length we had an imperfect view of an
+eminence, which we conjectured to be one of the mountains of the
+Cordilleras. This, however, was not so distinctly seen, but that many
+conceived it to be the effect of imagination; but if the captain was
+persuaded of the nearness of our danger, it was now too late to remedy it;
+for at this time the straps of the fore jeer blocks breaking, the fore-yard
+came down, and the greatest part of the men being disabled through fatigue
+and sickness, it was some time before it could be got up again. The few
+hands who were employed in this business now plainly saw the land on the
+larboard beam, bearing N, W., upon which the ship was driving bodily.
+Orders were then given immediately by the captain to sway the fore-yard up,
+and set the foresail; which done, we wore ship with her head to the
+southward, and endeavoured to crowd her off from the land; but the weather,
+from being exceedingly tempestuous, blowing now a perfect hurricane, and
+right in upon the shore, rendered our endeavours (for we were now only
+twelve hands fit for duty) entirely fruitless. The night came on, dreadful
+beyond description, in which, attempting to throw out our topsails to claw
+off the shore, they were immediately blown from the yards.
+
+<p>In the morning, about four o'clock, the ship struck. The shock we received
+upon this occasion, though very great, being not unlike a blow of a heavy
+sea, such as in the series of preceding storms we had often experienced,
+was taken for the same; but we were soon undeceived by her striking more
+violently than before, which laid her upon her beam-ends, the sea making a
+fair breach over her. Every person that now could stir was presently upon
+the quarter-deck; and many even of those were alert upon this occasion that
+had not shewed their faces upon deck for above two months before: Several
+poor wretches, who were in the last stage of the scurvy, and who could not
+get out of their hammocks, were immediately drowned.
+
+<p>In this dreadful situation she lay for some little time, every soul on
+board looking upon the present minute as his last, for there was nothing to
+be seen but breakers all around us. However, a mountainous sea hove her off
+from thence; but she presently struck again, and broke her tiller. In this
+terrifying and critical juncture, to have observed all the various modes of
+horror operating according to the several characters and complexions
+amongst us, it was necessary that the observer himself should have been
+free from all impressions of danger. Instances there were, however, of
+behaviour so very remarkable, they could not escape the notice of any one
+who was not entirely bereaved of his senses; for some were in this
+condition to all intents and purposes; particularly one, in the ravings
+despair brought upon him, was seen stalking about the deck flourishing a
+cutlass over his head, and calling himself king of the country, and
+striking every body he came near, till his companions, seeing no other
+security against his tyranny, knocked him down. Some, reduced before by
+long sickness and the scurvy, became on this occasion, as it were,
+petrified and bereaved of all sense, like inanimate logs, and were bandied
+to and fro by the jerks and rolls of the ship, without exerting any efforts
+to help themselves. So terrible was the scene of foaming breakers around
+us, that one of the bravest men we had could not help expressing his dismay
+at it, saying, it was too shocking a sight to bear; and would have thrown
+himself over the rails of the quarterdeck into the sea had he not been
+prevented; but at the same time there were not wanting those who preserved
+a presence of mind truly heroic. The man at the helm, though both rudder
+and tiller were gone, kept his station; and being asked by one of the
+officers if the ship would steer or not, first took his time to make trial
+by the wheel, and then answered with as much respect and coolness as if the
+ship had been in the greatest safety, and immediately after applied himself
+with his usual serenity to his duty, persuaded it did not become him to
+desert it as long as the ship kept together. Mr Jones, mate, who now
+survives not only this wreck, but that of the Litchfield man of war upon
+the coast of Barbary, at the time when the ship was in the most imminent
+danger, not only shewed himself undaunted, but endeavoured to inspire the
+same resolution in the men, saying, "My friends, let us not be discouraged,
+did you never see a ship amongst breakers before? Let us endeavour to pass
+her through them. Come, lend a hand: here is a sheet, and here is a brace,
+lay hold: I don't doubt but we may stick her yet near enough to the land to
+save our lives." This had so good an effect, that many who before were half
+dead, seemed active again, and now went to work in earnest. This Mr Jones
+did purely to keep up the spirits of the people as long as possible; for he
+often said afterwards, he thought there was not the least chance of a
+single man's being saved. We now run in between an opening of the breakers,
+steering by the sheets and braces, when providentially we stuck fast
+between two great rocks; that to windward sheltered us in some measure from
+the violence of the sea. We immediately cut away the main and fore-mast,
+but the ship kept beating in such a manner, that we imagined she could not
+hold together but a very little while. The day now broke, and the weather,
+that had been extremely thick, cleared away for a few moments, and gave us
+a glimpse of the land not far from us. We now thought of nothing but saving
+our lives. To get the boats out, as our masts were gone, was a work of some
+time, which when accomplished, many were ready to jump into the first, by
+which means they narrowly escaped perishing before they reached the shore.
+I now went to Captain Cheap, (who had the misfortune to dislocate his
+shoulder by a fall the day before, as he was going forward to get the fore-
+yard swayed up) and asked him if he would not go on shore; but he told me,
+as he had done before, that he would be the last to leave the ship; and he
+ordered me to assist in getting the men out as soon as possible. I had been
+with him very often from the time the ship first struck, as he desired I
+would, to acquaint him with every thing that passed; and I particularly
+remarked, that he gave his orders at that time with as much coolness as
+ever he had done during the former part of the voyage.
+
+<p>The scene was now greatly changed, for many who but a few minutes before
+had shewn the strongest signs of despair, and were on their knees praying
+for mercy, imagining they were now not in that immediate danger, grew very
+riotous, broke open every chest and box that was at hand, stove in the
+heads of casks of brandy and wine as they were borne up to the hatch-way,
+and got so drunk, that some of them were drowned on board, and lay floating
+about the decks for some days after. Before I left the ship, I went down to
+my chest, which was at the bulk-head of the ward-room, in order to save
+some little matters if possible; but whilst I was there the ship thumped
+with such violence, and the water came in so fast, that I was forced to get
+upon the quarter-deck again without saving a single rag but what was upon
+my back. The boatswain and some of the people would not leave the ship so
+long as there was any liquor to be got at; upon which Captain Cheap
+suffered himself to be helped out of his bed, put into the boat, and
+carried on shore.
+
+<h2><a name="ch2" id="ch2">CHAPTER II.</a></h2>
+
+<p>We land on a wild Shore.--No Appearance of Inhabitants.--One of our
+Lieutenants dies.--Conduct of a Part of the Crew who remained on the
+Wreck.--We name the Place of our Residence Mount Misery.--Narrative of
+Transactions there.--Indians appear in Canoes off the Coast.--Description
+of them.--Discontents amongst our People.
+
+<p>It is natural to think, that to men thus upon the point of perishing by
+shipwreck, the getting to land was the highest attainment of their wishes;
+undoubtedly it was a desirable event; yet, all things considered, our
+condition was but little mended by the change. Which ever way we looked, a
+scene of horror presented itself; on one side the wreck, (in which was all
+that we had in the world, to support and subsist us) together with a
+boisterous sea, presented us with the most dreary prospect; on the other,
+the land did not wear a much more favourable appearance: desolate and
+barren, without sign of culture, we could hope to receive little other
+benefit from it than the preservation it afforded us from the sea. It must
+be confessed this was a great and merciful deliverance from immediate
+destruction; but then we had wet, cold, and hunger to struggle with, and no
+visible remedy against any of those evils. Exerting ourselves, however,
+though faint, benumbed, and almost helpless, to find some wretched covert
+against the extreme inclemency of the weather, we discovered an Indian hut
+at a small distance from the beach, within a wood, in which as many as
+possible, without distinction, crowded themselves, the night coming on
+exceedingly tempestuous and rainy. But here our situation was such as to
+exclude all rest and refreshment by sleep from most of us, for, besides
+that we pressed upon one another extremely, we were not without our alarms
+and apprehensions of being attacked by the Indians, from a discovery we
+made of some of their lances and other arms in our hut; and our uncertainty
+of their strength and disposition gave alarm to our imagination, and kept
+us in continual anxiety.
+
+<p>In this miserable hovel, one of our company, a lieutenant of invalids, died
+this night; and of those who for want of room took shelter under a great
+tree, which stood them in very little stead, two more perished by the
+severity of that cold and rainy night. In the morning, the calls of hunger,
+which had been hitherto suppressed by our attention to more immediate
+dangers and difficulties, were now become too importunate to be resisted.
+We had most of us fasted eight-and-forty hours, some more; it was time
+therefore to make enquiry among ourselves what store of sustenance had been
+brought from the wreck by dire providence of some, and what could be
+procured on the island by the industry of others; but the produce of the
+one amounted to no more than two or three pounds of biscuit-dust preserved
+in a bag; and all the success of those who ventured abroad, the weather
+being still exceedingly bad, was to kill one sea-gull and pick some wild
+sellery. These, therefore, were immediately put into a pot, with the
+addition of a large quantity of water, and made into a kind of soup, of
+which each partook as far as it would go; but we had no sooner thrown this
+down than we were seized with the most painful sickness at our stomachs,
+violent reachings, swoonings, and other symptoms of being poisoned. This
+was imputed to various causes, but in general to the herbs we made use of,
+in the nature and quality of which we fancied ourselves mistaken; but a
+little farther enquiry let us into the real occasion of it, which was no
+other than this: the biscuit-dust was the sweepings of the bread-room, but
+the bag in which they were put had been a tobacco-bag, the contents of
+which not being entirely taken out, what remained mixed with the biscuit-
+dust, and proved a strong emetic.
+
+<p>We were in all about a hundred and forty who had got to shore, but some few
+remained still on board, detained either by drunkenness or a view of
+pillaging the wreck, among whom was the boatswain. These were visited by an
+officer in the yawl, who was to endeavour to prevail upon them to join the
+rest; but finding them in the greatest disorder and disposed to mutiny, he
+was obliged to desist from his purpose and return without them. Though we
+were very desirous, and our necessities required that we should take some
+survey of the land we were upon, yet being strongly prepossessed that the
+savages were retired but some little distance from us, and waited to see us
+divided, our parties did not make this day any great excursions from the
+hut; but as far as we went, we found it very morassy and unpromising. The
+spot which we occupied was a bay formed by hilly promontories; that to the
+north so exceeding steep, that in order to ascend it (for there was no
+going round, the bottom being washed by the sea) we were at the labour of
+cutting steps. This, which we call Mount Misery, was of use to us in taking
+some observations afterwards when the weather would permit: the southern
+promontory was not so inaccessible. Beyond this, I, with some others,
+having reached another bay, found driven ashore some parts of the wreck,
+but no kind of provision; nor did we meet with any shell-fish, which we
+were chiefly in search of. We therefore returned to the rest, and for that
+day made no other repast than what the wild sellery afforded us. The
+ensuing night proved exceedingly tempestuous; and, the sea running very
+high, threatened those on board with immediate destruction by the parting
+of the wreck. They then were as solicitous to get ashore as they were
+before obstinate in refusing the assistance we sent them; and when they
+found the boat did not come to their relief at the instant they expected
+it, without considering how impracticable a thing it was to send it them in
+such a sea, they fired one of the quarter-deck guns at the hut, the ball of
+which did but just pass over the covering of it, and was plainly heard by
+the captain and us who were within. Another attempt, therefore, was made to
+bring these madmen to land; which, however, by the violence of the sea and
+other impediments, occasioned by the mast that lay alongside, proved
+ineffectual. This unavoidable delay made the people on board outrageous;
+they fell to beating every thing to pieces that fell in the way; and,
+carrying their intemperance to the greatest excess, broke open chests and
+cabins for plunder that could be of no use to them; and so earnest were
+they in this wantonness of theft, that one man had evidently been murdered
+on account of some division of the spoil, or for the sake of the share that
+fell to him, having all the marks of a strangled corpse. One thing in this
+outrage they seemed particularly attentive to, which was, to provide
+themselves with arms and ammunition, in order to support them in putting
+their mutinous designs in execution, and asserting their claim to a lawless
+exemption from the authority of their officers, which they pretended must
+cease with the loss of the ship. But of these arms, which we stood in great
+need of, they were soon bereaved upon coming ashore, by the resolution of
+Captain Cheap and Lieutenant Hamilton of the marines. Among these mutineers
+who had been left on board, as I observed before, was the boatswain, who,
+instead of exerting the authority he had over the rest, to keep them within
+bounds as much as possible, was himself a ringleader in their riot; him,
+without respect to the figure he then made, for he was in laced clothes,
+Captain Cheap, by a blow well laid on with his cane, felled to the ground.
+It was scarce possible to refrain from laughter at the whimsical appearance
+these fellows made, who, having rifled the chests of the officers best
+suits, had put them on over their greasy trowsers and dirty checked shirts.
+They were soon stripped of their finery, as they had before been obliged to
+resign their arms.
+
+<p>The incessant rains and exceeding cold weather in this climate, rendered it
+impossible for us to subsist long without shelter; and the hut being much
+too little to receive us all, it was necessary to fall upon some expedient,
+without delay, which might serve our purpose: accordingly the gunner,
+carpenter, and some more, turning the cutter keel upwards, and fixing it
+upon props, made no despicable habitation. Having thus established some
+sort of settlement, we had the more leisure to look about us, and to make
+our researches with greater accuracy than we had before, after such
+supplies as the most desolate coasts are seldom unfurnished with.
+Accordingly we soon provided ourselves with some sea-fowl, and found
+limpets, mussels, and other shellfish in tolerable abundance; but this
+rummaging of the shore was now becoming extremely irksome to those who had
+any feeling, by the bodies of our drowned people thrown among the rocks,
+some of which were hideous spectacles, from the mangled condition they were
+in by the violent surf that drove in upon the coast. These horrors were
+overcome by the distresses of our people, who were even glad of the
+occasion of killing the gallinazo (the carrion crow of that country) while
+preying on these carcases, in order to make a meal of them. But a provision
+by no means proportionable to the number of mouths to be fed, could, by our
+utmost industry, be acquired from that part of the island we had hitherto
+traversed; therefore, till we were in a capacity of making more distant
+excursions, the wreck was to be applied to, as often as possible, for such
+supplies as could be got out of her. But as this was a very precarious fund
+in its present situation, and at best could not last us long; considering
+too that it was very uncertain how long we might be detained upon this
+island; the stores and provisions we were so fortunate as to retrieve, were
+not only to be dealt out with the most frugal economy, but a sufficient
+quantity, if possible, laid by, to fit us out, whenever we could agree upon
+any method of transporting ourselves from this dreary spot. The
+difficulties we had to encounter in these visits to the wreck, cannot be
+easily described; for no part of it being above water except the quarter-
+deck and part of the fore-castle, we were usually obliged to purchase such
+things as were within reach, by means of large hooks fastened to poles, in
+which business we were much incommoded by the dead bodies floating between
+decks.
+
+<p>In order to secure what we thus got in a manner to answer the ends and
+purposes above-mentioned, Captain Cheap ordered a store-tent to be erected
+near his hut, as a repository, from which nothing was to be dealt out but
+in the measure and proportion agreed upon by the officers; and though it
+was very hard upon us petty officers, who were fatigued with hunting all
+day in quest of food, to defend this tent from invasion by night, no other
+means could be devised for this purpose so effectual as the committing this
+charge to our care; and we were accordingly ordered to divide the task
+equally between us. Yet, notwithstanding our utmost vigilance and care,
+frequent robberies were committed upon our trust, the tent being accessible
+in more than one place. And one night when I had the watch, hearing a stir
+within, I came unawares upon the thief and presenting a pistol to his
+breast, obliged him to submit to be tied up to a post till I had an
+opportunity of securing him more effectually. Depredations continued to be
+made on our reserved stock, notwithstanding the great hazard attending such
+attempts; for our common safety made it necessary to punish them with the
+utmost rigour. This will not be wondered at, when it is known how little
+the allowance which might consistently be dispensed from thence was
+proportionable to our common exigencies, so that our daily and nightly task
+of roving after food was not in the least relaxed thereby; and all put
+together was so far from answering our necessities, that many at this time
+perished with hunger. A boy, when no other eatables could be found, having
+picked up the liver of one of the drowned men, (whose carcase had been torn
+to pieces by the force with which the sea drove it among the rocks) was
+with difficulty withheld from making a meal of it. The men were so
+assiduous in their research after the few things which drove from the
+wreck, that in order to have no sharers of their good fortune, they
+examined the shore no less by night than by day; so that many of them who
+were less alert, or not so fortunate as their neighbours, perished with
+hunger, or were driven to the last extremity. It must be observed, that on
+the 14th of May we were cast away, and it was not till the twenty-fifth of
+this month that provision was served regularly from the store-tent.
+
+<p>The land we were now settled upon was about 90 leagues to the northward of
+the western mouth of the Straits of Magellan, in the latitude of between 47
+and 48° south, from whence we could plainly see the Cordilleras; and by two
+lagoons on the north and south of us, stretching towards those mountains,
+we conjectured it was an island. But as yet we had no means of informing
+ourselves perfectly whether it was an island or the main; for besides that
+the inland parts at little distance from us seemed impracticable, from the
+exceeding great thickness of the wood, we had hitherto been in such
+confusion and want, (each finding full employment for his time, in scraping
+together a wretched subsistence, and providing shelter against the cold and
+rain) that no party could be formed to go upon discoveries. The climate and
+season too were utterly unfavourable to adventurers; and the coast, as far
+as our eye could stretch seaward, a scene of such dismal breakers as would
+discourage the most daring from making attempts in small boats. Nor were we
+assisted in our enquiries by any observation that could be made from that
+eminence we called Mount Misery, toward land, our prospect that way being
+intercepted by still higher hills and lofty woods: we had therefore no
+other expedient by means of which to come at this knowledge, but by fitting
+out one of our ship's boats upon some discovery, to inform us of our
+situation. Our long-boat was still on board the wreck; therefore a number
+of hands were now dispatched to cut the gunwale of the ship in order to get
+her out. Whilst we were employed in this business, there appeared three
+canoes of Indians paddling towards us: they had come round the point from
+the southern lagoons. It was some time before we could prevail upon them to
+lay aside their fears and approach us, which at length they were induced to
+do by the signs of friendship we made them, and by shewing some bale-goods,
+which they accepted, and suffered themselves to be conducted to the
+captain, who made them likewise some presents. They were strangely affected
+with the novelty thereof, but chiefly when shewn the looking-glass, in
+which the beholder could not conceive it to be his own face that was
+represented, but that of some other behind it, which he therefore went
+round to the back of the glass to find out.
+
+<p>These people were of a small stature, very swarthy, having long black
+coarse hair hanging over their faces. It was evident, from their great
+surprise and every part of their behaviour, as well as their not having one
+thing in their possession which could be derived from white people, that
+they had never seen such. Their clothing was nothing but a bit of some
+beast's skin about their waists, and something woven from feathers over
+their shoulders; and as they uttered no word of any language we had ever
+heard, nor had any method of making themselves understood, we presumed they
+could have had no intercourse with Europeans. These savages, who upon their
+departure left us a few mussels, returned in two days, and surprised us by
+bringing three sheep. From whence they could procure these animals in a
+part of the world so distant from any Spanish settlement, cut off from all
+communication with the Spaniards by an inaccessible coast and unprofitable
+country, is difficult to conceive. Certain it is, that we saw no such
+creatures, nor ever heard of any such, from the Straits of Magellan till we
+got into the neighbourhood of Chiloe; it must be by some strange accident
+that these creatures came into their possession, but what that was we never
+could learn from them. At this interview we bartered with them for a dog or
+two, which we roasted and eat. In a few days after they made us another
+visit, and, bringing their wives with them, took up their abode with us for
+some days, then left us again.
+
+<p>Whenever the weather permitted, which was now grown something drier, but
+exceeding cold, we employed ourselves about the wreck, from which we had,
+at sundry times, recovered several articles of provision and liquor: these
+were deposited in the store-tent. Ill humour and discontent, from the
+difficulties we laboured under in procuring subsistence, and the little
+prospect there was of any amendment in our condition, was now breaking out
+apace. In some it shewed itself by a separation of settlement and
+habitation; in others, by a resolution of leaving the captain entirely, and
+making a wild journey by themselves, without determining upon any plan
+whatever. For my own part, seeing it was the fashion, and liking none of
+their parties, I built a little hut just big enough for myself and a poor
+Indian dog I found in the woods, who could shift for himself along shore at
+low water, by getting limpets. This creature grew so fond of me and
+faithful, that he would suffer nobody to come near the hut without biting
+them. Besides those seceders I mentioned, some laid a scheme of deserting
+us entirely; these were in number ten, the greatest part of them a most
+desperate and abandoned crew, who, to strike a notable stroke before they
+went off, placed half a barrel of gunpowder close to the captain's hut,
+laid a train to it, and were just preparing to perpetrate their wicked
+design of blowing up their commander, when they were with difficulty
+dissuaded from it by one who had some bowels and remorse of conscience left
+in him. These wretches, after rambling some time in the woods, and finding
+it impracticable to get off, for they were then convinced that we were not
+upon the main, as they had imagined when they first left us, but upon an
+island within four or five leagues of it, returned and settled about a
+league from us; however, they were still determined, as soon as they could
+procure craft fit for their purpose, to get to the main. But before they
+could effect this, we found means to prevail upon the armourer and one of
+the carpenter's crew, two very useful men to us, who had imprudently joined
+them, to come over again to their duty. The rest, (one or two excepted)
+having built a punt, and converted the hull of one of the ship's masts into
+a canoe, went away up one of the lagoons, and never were heard of more.
+
+<h2><a name="ch3" id="ch3">CHAPTER III.</a></h2>
+
+<p>Unfortunate Death of Mr Cozens.--Improper Conduct of Captain Cheap.--The
+Indians join us in a friendly Manner, but depart presently on account of
+the Misconduct of our Men.--Our Number dreadfully reduced by Famine.--
+Description of the various Contrivances used for procuring Food.--Further
+Transactions.--Departure from the Island.
+
+<p>These being a desperate and factious set, did not distress us much by their
+departure, but rather added to our future security. One in particular,
+James Mitchell by name, we had all the reason in the world to think had
+committed no less than two murders since the loss of our ship, one on the
+person found strangled on board, another on the body of a man whom we
+discovered among some bushes upon Mount Misery, stabbed in several places,
+and shockingly mangled. This diminution of our number was succeeded by an
+unfortunate accident much more affecting in its consequences, I mean the
+death of Mr Cozens, midshipman; in relating which with the necessary
+impartiality and exactness, I think myself obliged to be more than ordinary
+particular. Having one day among other things, got a cask of pease out of
+the wreck, about which I was almost constantly employed, I brought it to
+shore in the yawl, when having landed it, the captain came down upon the
+beach, and bid me to go up to some of the tents and order hands to come
+down and roll it up; but finding none except Mr Cozens, I delivered him the
+orders, who immediately came down to the captain, where I left them when I
+returned to the wreck. Upon my coming on shore again, I found that Mr
+Cozens was put under confinement by the captain for being drunk and giving
+him abusive language; however, he was soon after released. A day or two
+after he had some dispute with the surgeon, and came to blows: all these
+things incensed the captain greatly against him. I believe this unfortunate
+man was kept warm with liquor, and set on by some ill-designing persons;
+for, when sober, I never knew a better-natured man, or one more
+inoffensive. Some little time after, at the hour of serving provisions, Mr
+Cozens was at the store-tent; and having, it seems, lately had a quarrel
+with the purser, and now some words arising between them, the latter told
+him he was come to mutiny; and without any further ceremony fired a pistol
+at his head, which narrowly missed him. The captain, hearing the report of
+the pistol, and perhaps the purser's words, that Cozens was come to mutiny,
+ran out of his hut with a cocked pistol in his hand, and, without asking
+any questions, immediately shot him through the head. I was at this time in
+my hut, as the weather was extremely bad, but running out upon the alarm of
+this firing, the first thing I saw was Mr Cozens on the ground weltering in
+his blood: he was sensible, and took me by the hand, as he did several
+others, shaking his head, as if he meant to take leave of us. If Mr Cozens'
+behaviour to his captain was indecent and provoking, the captain's, on the
+other hand, was rash and hasty. If the first was wanting in that respect
+and observance which is due from a petty officer to his commander, the
+latter was still more unadvised in the method he took for the enforcement
+of his authority; of which, indeed, he was jealous to the last degree, and
+which he saw daily declining, and ready to be trampled upon. His mistaken
+apprehension of a mutinous design in Mr Cozens, the sole motive of this
+rash action, was so far from answering the end he proposed by it, that the
+men, who before were much dissatisfied and uneasy, were by this unfortunate
+step thrown almost into open sedition and revolt. It was evident that the
+people, who ran out of their tents, alarmed by the report of fire-arms,
+though they disguised their real sentiments for the present, were extremely
+affected at this catastrophe of Mr Cozens, for he was greatly beloved by
+them: their minds were now exasperated, and it was to be apprehended, that
+their resentment, which was smothered for the present, would shortly shew
+itself in some desperate enterprize. The unhappy victim, who lay weltering
+in his blood on the ground before them, seemed to absorb their whole
+attention; the eyes of all were fixed upon him; and visible marks of the
+deepest concern appeared in the countenances of the spectators. The
+persuasion the captain was under, at the time he shot Mr Cozens, that his
+intentions were mutinous, together with a jealousy of the diminution of his
+authority, occasioned also his behaving with less compassion and tenderness
+towards him afterwards than was consistent with the unhappy condition of
+the poor sufferer: for when it was begged as a favour by his mess-mates,
+that Mr Cozens might be removed to their tent, though a necessary thing in
+his dangerous situation, yet it was not permitted; but the poor wretch was
+suffered to languish on the ground some days with no other covering than a
+bit of canvas thrown over some bushes, where he died. But to return to our
+story: the captain, addressing himself to the people thus assembled, told
+them, that it was his resolution to maintain his command over them as
+usual, which still remained in as much force as ever; and then ordered them
+all to return to their respective tents, with which order they instantly
+complied. Now we had saved our long-boat from the wreck, and got it in our
+possession, there was nothing that seemed so necessary towards the
+advancing our delivery from this desolate place as the new-modelling this
+vessel, so as to have room for all those who were inclined to go off in
+her, and to put her in a condition to bear the stormy seas we must of
+course encounter. We therefore hauled her up, and having placed her upon
+blocks, sawed her in two, in order to lengthen her about twelve feet by the
+keel. For this purpose, all those who could be spared from the more
+immediate task of procuring subsistence, were employed in fitting and
+shaping timber as the carpenter directed them; I say, in procuring
+subsistence, because the weather lately having been very tempestuous, and
+the wreck working much, had disgorged a great part of her contents, which
+were every where dispersed about the shore.
+
+<p>We now sent frequent parties up the lagoons, which sometimes succeeded in
+getting some sea-fowl for us. The Indians appearing again in the offing, we
+put off our yawl in order to frustrate any design they might have of going
+up the lagoon towards the deserters, who would have availed themselves of
+some of their canoes to have got upon the main. Having conducted them in,
+we found that their intention was to settle among us, for they had brought
+their wives and children with them, in all about fifty persons, who
+immediately set about building themselves wigwams, and seemed much
+reconciled to our company; and, could we have entertained them as we ought,
+they would have been of great assistance to us, who were extremely put to
+it to subsist ourselves, being a hundred in number; but the men, now
+subject to little or no controul, endeavoured to seduce their wives, which
+gave the Indians such offence, that in a short time they found means to
+depart, taking every thing along with them; and we, being sensible of the
+cause, never expected to see them return again. The carpenter having made
+some progress in his work upon the long-boat, in which he was enabled to
+proceed tolerably, by the tools and other articles of his business
+retrieved from the wreck, the men began to think of the course they should
+take to get home; or rather, having borrowed Sir John Narborough's voyage
+of Captain Cheap, by the application of Mr Bulkely, which book he saw me
+reading one day in my tent, they immediately upon perusing it, concluded
+upon making their voyage home by the Straits of Magellan. This plan was
+proposed to the captain, who by no means approved of it, his design being
+to go northwards, with a view of seizing a ship of the enemy's, by which
+means he might join the commodore: at-present, therefore, here it rested.
+But the men were in high spirits from the prospect they had of getting off
+in the long-boat, overlooking all the difficulties and hazards of a voyage
+almost impracticable, and caressing the carpenter, who indeed was an
+excellent workman, and deserved all the encouragement they could give him.
+The Indians having left us, and the weather continuing tempestuous and
+rainy, the distresses of the people for want of food became insupportable.
+Our number, which was at first 145, was now reduced to 100, and chiefly by
+famine, which put the rest upon all shifts and devices to support
+themselves.
+
+<p>One day, when I was at home in my hut with my Indian dog, a party came to
+my door, and told me their necessities were such, that they must eat the
+creature or starve.
+
+<p>Though their plea was urgent, I could not help using some arguments to
+endeavour to dissuade them from killing him, as his faithful services and
+fondness deserved it at my hands; but, without weighing my arguments, they
+took him away by force and killed him; upon which, thinking that I had at
+least as good a right to a share as the rest, I sat down with them and
+partook of their repast. Three weeks after that I was glad to make a meal
+of his paws and skin, which, upon recollecting the spot where they had
+killed him, I found thrown aside and rotten. The pressing calls of hunger
+drove our men to their wit's end, and put them upon a variety of devices to
+satisfy it. Among the ingenious this way, one Phipps, a boatswain's mate,
+having got a water puncheon, scuttled it; then lashing two logs, one on
+each side, set out in quest of adventures in this extraordinary and
+original piece of embarkation. By this means he would frequently, when all
+the rest were starving, provide himself with wild-fowl; and it must have
+been very bad weather indeed which could deter him from putting out to sea
+when his occasions required. Sometimes he would venture far out in the
+offing, and be absent the whole day; at last, it was his misfortune, at a
+great distance from shore, to be overset by a heavy sea, but being near a
+rock, though no swimmer, he managed so as to scramble to it, and with great
+difficulty ascended it: There he remained two days with very little hopes
+of any relief, for he was too far off to be seen from shore; but
+fortunately a boat, having put off and gone in quest of wild-fowl that way,
+discovered him making such signals as he was able, and brought him back to
+the island. But this accident did not discourage him, but that soon after,
+having procured an ox's hide, used on board for sifting powder, and called
+a gunner's hide, by the assistance of some hoops he formed something like a
+canoe, in which he made several successful voyages. When the weather would
+permit us, we seldom failed of getting some wild-fowl, though never in any
+plenty, by putting off with our boats; but this most inhospitable climate
+is not only deprived of the sun for the most part by a thick, rainy
+atmosphere, but is also visited by almost incessant tempests. It must be
+confessed we reaped some benefit from these hard gales and overgrown seas,
+which drove several things ashore; but there was no dependence on such
+accidental relief; and we were always alert to avail ourselves of every
+interval of fair weather, though so little to be depended on, that we were
+often unexpectedly and to our peril overtaken by a sudden change. In one of
+our excursions, I, with two more, in a wretched punt of our own making, had
+no sooner landed at our station upon a high rock, than the punt was driven
+loose by a sudden squall; and had not one of the men, at the risk of his
+life, jumped into the sea and swam on board her, we must in all probability
+have perished, for we were more than three leagues from the island at the
+time. Among the birds we generally shot, was the painted goose, whose
+plumage is variegated with the most lively colours; and a bird much larger
+than a goose, which we called the racehorse, from the velocity with which
+it moved upon the surface of the water, in a sort of half-flying half-
+running motion. But we were not so successful in our endeavours by land;
+for though we sometimes got pretty far into the woods, we met with very few
+birds in our walks. We never saw but three woodcocks, two of which were
+killed by Mr Hamilton, and one by myself. These, with some humming-birds,
+and a large kind of robin red-breast, were the only feathered inhabitants
+of this island, excepting a small bird with two very long feathers in his
+tail, which was generally seen amongst the rocks, and was so tame, that I
+have had them rest upon my shoulder whilst I have been gathering shellfish.
+Indeed, we were visited by many birds of prey, some very large, but these
+only occasionally, and, as we imagined, allured by some dead whale in the
+neighbourhood, which was once seen. However, if we were so fortunate as to
+kill one of them, we thought ourselves very well off. In one of my walks,
+seeing a bird of this latter kind upon an eminence, I endeavoured to come
+upon it unperceived with my gun, by means of the woods which lay at the
+back of that eminence; but when I had proceeded so far in the wood as to
+think I was in a line with it, I heard a growling close by me, which made
+me think it advisable to retire as soon as possible: The woods were so
+gloomy I could see nothing; but as I retired, this noise followed me close
+till I had got out of them. Some of our men did assure me that they had
+seen a very large beast in the woods, but their description of it was too
+imperfect to be relied upon. The wood here is chiefly of the aromatic kind;
+the iron wood, a wood of a very deep red hue, and another, of an exceeding
+bright yellow. All the low spots are very swampy; but, what we thought
+strange, upon the summits of the highest hills were found beds of shells, a
+foot or two thick.
+
+<p>The long-boat being nearly finished, some of our company were selected to
+go out in the barge in order to reconnoitre the coast to the southward,
+which might assist us in the navigation we were going upon. This party
+consisted of Mr Bulkely, Mr Jones, the purser, myself, and ten men. The
+first night we put into a good harbour, a few leagues to the southward of
+Wager's Island, where finding a large bitch big with puppies, we regaled
+upon them. In this expedition we had our usual bad weather and breaking
+seas, which were grown to such a height the third day, that we were
+obliged, through distress, to push in at the first inlet we saw at hand.
+This we had no sooner entered, than we were presented with a view of a fine
+bay, in which having secured the barge, we went ashore; but the weather
+being very rainy, and finding nothing to subsist upon, we pitched a bell-
+tent, which we had brought with us, in the wood, opposite to where the
+barge lay. As this tent was not large enough to contain us all, I proposed
+to four of the people to go to the end of the bay, about two miles distant
+from the bell-tent, to occupy the skeleton of an old Indian wigwam, which I
+had discovered in a walk that way upon our first landing. This we covered
+to windward with sea-weed; and lighting a fire, laid ourselves down, in
+hopes of finding a remedy for our hunger in sleep; but we had not long
+composed ourselves before one of our company was disturbed by the blowing
+of some animal at his face, and upon opening his eyes was not a little
+astonished to see by the glimmering of the fire, a large beast standing
+over him. He had presence of mind enough to snatch a brand from the fire,
+which was now very low, and thrust it at the nose of the animal, who
+thereupon made off: This done, the man awoke us, and related, with horror
+in his countenance, the narrow escape he had of being devoured. But though
+we were under no small apprehensions of another visit from this animal, yet
+our fatigue and heaviness was greater than our fears, and we once more
+composed ourselves to rest, and slept the remainder of the night without
+any further disturbance. In the morning, we were not a little anxious to
+know how our companions had fared; and this anxiety was increased upon
+tracing the footsteps of the beast in the sand in a direction towards the
+bell-tent. The impression was deep and plain, of a large round foot well
+furnished with claws. Upon our acquainting the people in the tent with the
+circumstances of our story, we found that they too had been visited by the
+same unwelcome guest, which they had driven away by much the same
+expedient.
+
+<p>We now returned from this cruise, with a strong gale, to Wager's Island,
+having found it impracticable to make farther discoveries in the barge on
+so dangerous a coast, and in such heavy seas. Here we soon discovered, by
+the quarters of dogs hanging up, that the Indians had brought a fresh
+supply to our market. Upon enquiry, we found that there had been six canoes
+of them, who, among other methods of taking fish, had taught their dogs to
+drive the fish into a corner of some pond or lake, from whence they were
+easily taken out by the skill and address of these savages. The old cabal,
+during our absence, had been frequently revived; the debates of which
+generally ended in riot and drunkenness. This cabal was chiefly held in a
+large tent, which the people belonging to it had taken some pains to make
+snug and convenient, and lined with bales of broad cloth driven from the
+wreck. Eighteen of the stoutest fellows of the ship's company had
+possession of this tent, from whence were dispatched committees to the
+captain, with the resolutions they had taken with regard to their
+departure, but oftener for liquor. Their determination was to go in the
+long-boat to the southward by the Straits of Magellan; and the point they
+were labouring, was to prevail upon the captain to accompany them. But
+though he had fixed upon a quite different plan, which was to go to the
+northward, yet he thought it politic at present seemingly to acquiesce with
+them, in order to keep them quiet. When they began to stipulate with him,
+that he should be under some restrictions in point of command, and should
+do nothing without consulting his officers, he insisted upon the full
+exercise of his authority as before. This broke all measures between them,
+and they were from this time determined he should go with them whether he
+would or no. A better pretence they could not have for effecting this
+design, than the unfortunate affair of Mr Cozens, which they therefore made
+use of for seizing his person, and putting him under confinement, in order
+to bring him to his trial in England.
+
+<p>The long-boat was now launched and ready for sailing, and all the men
+embarked, excepting Captain Pemberton with a party of marines, who drew
+them up upon the beach with intent to conduct Captain Cheap on board; but
+he was at length persuaded to desist from this resolution by Mr Bulkely.
+The men too, finding they were straitened for room, and that their stock of
+provision would not admit of their taking supernumeraries aboard, were now
+no less strenuous for his enlargement, and being left to his option of
+staying behind. Therefore, after having distributed their share in the
+reserved stock of provision, which was very small, we departed, leaving
+Captain Cheap, Mr Hamilton of the marines, and the surgeon, upon the
+island. I had all along been in the dark as to the turn this affair would
+take; and not in the least suspecting but that it was determined Captain
+Cheap should be taken with us, readily embarked under that persuasion; but
+when I found that this design, which was so seriously carried on to the
+last, was suddenly dropped, I was determined, upon the first opportunity,
+to leave them, which was at this instant impossible for me to do, the long-
+boat lying at some distance off shore at anchor.
+
+<p>We were in all eighty-one when we left the island, distributed into the
+long-boat, cutter, and barge; fifty-nine on board the first, twelve in the
+second, in the last ten. It was our purpose to put into some harbour, if
+possible, every evening, as we were in no condition to keep those terrible
+seas long; for without other assistance, our stock of provisions was no
+more than might have been consumed in a few days; our water was chiefly
+contained in a few powder-barrels; our flour was to be lengthened out by a
+mixture of sea-weed; and our other supplies depended upon the success of
+our guns and industry among the rocks. Captain Pemberton having brought on
+board his men, we weighed, but by a sudden squall of wind having split our
+foresail, we with difficulty cleared the rocks by means of our boats, bore
+away for a sandy bay on the south side of the lagoon, and anchored in ten
+fathom. The next morning we got under weigh, but it blowing hard at W. by
+N. with a great swell, put into a small bay again, well sheltered by a
+ledge of rocks without us. At this time it was thought necessary to send
+the barge away back to Cheap's bay for some spare canvas, which was
+imagined would be soon wanted. I thought this a good opportunity of
+returning, and therefore made one with those who went upon this business in
+the barge. We were no sooner clear of the long-boat, than all of those in
+the boat with me declared they had the same intention.
+
+<p>When we arrived at the island, we were extremely welcome to Captain Cheap.
+The next day, I asked him leave to try if I could prevail upon those in the
+long-boat to give us our share of provisions: this he granted; but said, if
+we went in the barge they would certainly take her from us. I told him my
+design was to walk it, and only desired the boat might land me upon the
+main, and wait for me till I came back. I had the most dreadful journey of
+it imaginable, through thick woods and swamps all the way; but I might as
+well have spared myself that trouble, as it was to no manner of purpose,
+for they would not give me, nor any one of us that left them, a single
+ounce of provisions of any kind, I therefore returned, and after that made
+a second attempt, but all in vain. They even threatened, if we did not
+return with the barge, they would fetch her by force. It is impossible to
+conceive the distressed situation we were now in at the time of the long-
+boat's departure. I don't mention this event as the occasion of it; by
+which, if we who were left on the island experienced any alteration at all,
+it was for the better, and which, in all probability, had it been deferred,
+might have been fatal to the greatest part of us; but at this time the
+subsistence on which we had hitherto depended chiefly, which was the shell-
+fish, were every where along shore eat up; and as to stock saved from the
+wreck, it may be guessed what the amount of that might be, when the share
+allotted to the captain, Lieutenant Hamilton, and the surgeon, was no more
+than six pieces of beef, as many of pork, and ninety pounds of flour. As to
+myself and those that left the long-boat, it was the least revenge they
+thought they could take of us to withhold our provision from us, though at
+the same time it was hard and unjust. For a day or two after our return
+there was some little pittance dealt out to us, yet it was upon the foot of
+favour; and we were soon left to our usual industry for a farther supply.
+This was now exerted to very little purpose, for the reason before
+assigned; to which may be added, the wreck was now blown up, all her upper
+works gone, and no hopes of any valuable driftage from her for the future.
+A weed called slaugh, fried in the tallow of some candles we had saved, and
+wild sellery, were our only fare, by which our strengths was so much
+impaired, that we could scarcely crawl. It was my misfortune too to labour
+under a severe flux, by which, I was reduced to a very feeble state; so
+that, in attempting to traverse the rocks in search of shell-fish, I fell
+from one into very deep water, and with difficulty saved my life by
+swimming.
+
+<p>As the captain was now freed, by the departure of the long-boat, from the
+riotous applications, menaces, and disturbance of an unruly crew, and left
+at liberty to follow the plan he had resolved upon, of going northward, he
+began to think seriously of putting it in execution, in order to which, a
+message was sent to the deserters, who had seated themselves on the other
+side of the neighbouring lagoon, to sound them, whether they were inclined
+to join the captain in his undertaking, and if they were, to bring them
+over to him. For this set, the party gone off in the long-boat had left an
+half-allowance proportion of the common stock of provision. These men, upon
+the proposal, readily agreed to join their commander; and being conducted
+to him, increased our number to twenty. The boats which remained in our
+possession to carry off all these people were only the barge and yawl, two
+very crazy bottoms; the broadside of the last was entirely out, and the
+first had suffered much in a variety of bad weather she had gone through,
+and was much out of repair. And now our carpenter was gone from us, we had
+no remedy for these misfortunes but the little skill we had gained from
+him. However, we made tolerable shift to patch up the boats for our
+purpose. In the height of our distresses, when hunger, which seems to
+include and absorb all others, was most prevailing, we were cheered with
+the appearance once more of our friendly Indians, as we thought, from whom
+we hoped for some relief; but as the consideration was wanting for which
+alone they would part with their commodities, we were not at all benefited
+by their stay, which was very short. The little reserve too of flour made
+by the captain for our sea-stock when we should leave the island, was now
+diminished by theft: the thieves, who were three of our men, were however
+soon discovered, and two of them apprehended, but the third made his escape
+to the woods. Considering the pressing state of our necessities, this theft
+was looked upon as a most heinous crime, and therefore required an
+extraordinary punishment: accordingly, the captain ordered these
+delinquents to be severely whipped, and then to be banished to an island at
+some distance from us; but before this latter part of the sentence could be
+put in execution, one of them fled, but the other was put alone upon a
+barren island, which afforded not the least shelter: however, we, in
+compassion, and contrary to order, patched him up a bit of a hut and
+kindled him a fire, and then left the poor wretch to shift for himself. In
+two or three days after, going to the island in our boat with some little
+refreshment, such as our miserable circumstances would admit of, and with
+an intent of bringing him back, we found him dead and stiff. I was now
+reduced to the lowest condition by my illness, which was increased by the
+vile stuff I eat, when we were favoured by a fair day, a thing very
+extraordinary in this climate. We instantly took the advantage of it, and
+once more visited the last remains of the wreck, her bottom. Here our pains
+were repaid with the great good fortune of hooking up three casks of beef,
+which were brought safe to shore. This providential supply could not have
+happened at a more seasonable time than now, when we were afflicted with
+the greatest dearth we had ever experienced, and the little strength we had
+remaining was to be exerted in our endeavours to leave the island.
+Accordingly we soon found a remedy for our sickness, which was nothing but
+the effects of famine, and were greatly restored by food. The provision was
+equally distributed among us all, and served us for the remainder of our
+stay here.
+
+<p>We began to grow extremely impatient to leave the island, as the days were
+now nearly at their longest, and about Midsummer in these parts; but as to
+the weather, there seems to be little difference in a difference of
+seasons. Accordingly, on the 15th of December, the day being tolerable, we
+told Captain Cheap we thought it a fine opportunity to run across the bay.
+But he first desired two or three of us to accompany him to our place of
+observation, the top of Mount Misery, when, looking through his
+perspective, he observed to us that the sea ran very high without. However,
+this had no weight with the people, who were desirous, at all events, to be
+gone. I should here observe, that Captain Cheap's plan was, if possible, to
+get to the island of Chiloe, and if we found any vessel there, to board her
+immediately and cut her out. This he might certainly have done with ease,
+had it been his good fortune to get round with the boats.
+
+<p>We now launched both boats, and got every thing on board of them as quick
+as possible. Captain Cheap, the surgeon, and myself, were in the barge with
+nine men, and, Lieutenant Hamilton and Mr Campbell in the yawl with six. I
+steered the barge, and Mr Campbell the yawl; but we had not been two hours
+at sea before the wind shifted more to the westward and began to blow very
+hard, and the sea ran extremely high, so that we could no longer keep our
+heads towards the cape or headland we had designed for. This cape we had
+had a view of, in one of the intervals of fair weather during our abode on
+the island, from Mount Misery; and it seemed to be distant between twenty
+and thirty leagues from us. We were now obliged to bear away right before
+the wind. Though the yawl was not far from us, we could see nothing of her,
+except now and then upon the top of a mountainous sea. In both the boats
+the men were obliged to sit as close as possible, to receive the seas on
+their backs, to prevent their filling us, which was what we every moment
+expected. We were obliged to throw every thing overboard to lighten the
+boats, all our beef, and even the grapnel, to prevent sinking. Night was
+coming on, and we were running on a lee-shore fast, where the sea broke in
+a frightful manner. Not one amongst us imagined it possible for boats to
+live in such a sea. In this situation, as we neared the shore, expecting to
+be beat to pieces by the first breaker, we perceived a small opening
+between the rocks, which we stood for, and found a very narrow passage
+between them, which brought us into a harbour for the boats, as calm and
+smooth as a mill-pond. The yawl had got in before us, and our joy was great
+at meeting again after so unexpected a deliverance. Here we secured the
+boats, and ascended a rock.
+
+<p>It rained excessively hard all the first part of the night, and was
+extremely cold; and though we had not a dry thread about us, and no wood
+could be found for firing, we were obliged to pass the night in that
+uncomfortable situation, without any covering, shivering in our wet
+clothes. The frost coming on with the morning, it was impossible for any of
+us to get a moment's sleep; and having flung overboard our provision the
+day before, there being no prospect of finding any thing to eat on this
+coast, in the morning we pulled out of the cove, but found so great a sea
+without, that we could make but little of it. After tugging all day,
+towards night we put in among some small islands, landed upon one of them,
+and found it a mere swamp. As the weather was the same, we passed this
+night much as we had done the preceding; sea-tangle was all we could get to
+eat at first, but the next day we had better luck; the surgeon got a goose,
+and we found materials for a good fire.
+
+<p>We were confined here three or four days, the weather all that time proving
+so bad that we could not put out. As soon as it grew moderate, we left this
+place and shaped our course to the northward; and perceiving a large
+opening between very high land and a low point, we steered for it, and when
+got that length, found a large bay, down which we rowed, flattering
+ourselves there might be a passage that way; but towards night we came to
+the bottom of the bay, and finding no outlet, we were obliged to return the
+same way we came, having found nothing the whole day to alleviate our
+hunger.
+
+<h2><a name="ch4" id="ch4">CHAPTER IV.</a></h2>
+
+<p>Occurrences on our Voyage.--We encounter bad Weather and various Dangers
+and Distresses.--Leave a Part of our Crew behind on a desert Shore.--A
+strange Cemetry discovered.--Narrow Escape from Wreck.--Return to Mount
+Misery.--We are visited by a Chanos Indian Cacique, who talks Spanish, with
+whom we again take our Departure from the Island.
+
+<p>Next night we put into a little cove, which, from the great quantity of red
+wood found there, we called Red-wood Cove. Leaving this place in the
+morning, we had the wind southerly, blowing fresh, by which we made much
+way that day to the northward. Towards evening we were in with a pretty
+large island. Putting ashore on it, we found it clothed with the finest
+trees we had ever seen, their stems running up to a prodigious height,
+without knot or branch, and as straight as cedars; the leaf of these trees
+resembles the myrtle leaf, only somewhat larger. I have seen trees larger
+than these in circumference on the coast of Guinea, and there only; but for
+a length of stem, which gradually tapered, I have no where met with any to
+compare to them. The wood was of a hard substance, and if not too heavy,
+would have made good masts; the dimensions of some of these trees being
+equal to a main-mast of a first-rate man of war. The shore was covered with
+drift wood of a very large size, most of it cedar, which makes a brisk
+fire; but is so subject to snap and fly, that when we waked in the morning,
+after a sound sleep, we found our clothes singed in many places with the
+sparks, and covered with splinters.
+
+<p>The next morning being calm, we rowed out, but as soon as clear of the
+island, we found a great swell from the westward; we rowed to the bottom of
+a very large bay which was to the northward of us, the land very low, and
+we were in hopes of finding some inlet through, but did not, so kept along
+shore to the westward. This part, which I take to be above fifty leagues
+from Wager Island, is the very bottom of the large bay it lies in. Here was
+the only passage to be found, which, if we could by any means have got
+information of it, would have saved us much fruitless labour. Of this
+passage I shall have occasion to say more hereafter.
+
+<p>Having at this time an off-shore wind, we kept the wind close on board till
+we came to a head-land: it was near night before we got abreast of the
+head-land, and opening it discovered a very large bay to the northward, and
+another head-land to the westward, at a great distance. We endeavoured to
+cut short our passage to it by crossing, which is very seldom to be
+effected in these overgrown seas by boats; and this we experienced now, for
+the wind springing up, and beginning to blow fresh, we were obliged to put
+back towards the first head-land, into a small cove, just big enough to
+shelter the two boats. Here an accident happened that alarmed us much.
+After securing our boats, we climbed up a rock scarcely large enough to
+contain our numbers: having nothing to eat, we betook ourselves to our
+usual receipt for hunger, which was going to sleep. We accordingly made a
+fire, and stowed ourselves round it as well as we could, but two of our men
+being incommoded for want of room, went a little way from us into a small
+nook, over which a great cliff hung, and served them for a canopy.
+
+<p>In the middle of the night we were awakened with a terrible rambling, which
+we apprehended to be nothing less than the shock of an earthquake, which we
+had before experienced in these parts; and this conjecture we had reason to
+think not ill founded, upon hearing hollow groans and cries as of men half
+swallowed up. We immediately got up, and ran to the place from whence the
+cries came, and then we were put out of all doubt as to the opinion we had
+formed of this accident, for here we found the two men almost buried under
+loose stones and earth; but upon a little farther enquiry, we were
+undeceived as to the cause we had imputed this noise to, which we found to
+be occasioned by the sudden giving way of the impending cliff, which fell a
+little beyond our people, carrying trees and rocks with it and loose earth,
+the latter of which fell in part on our men, whom we with some pains
+rescued from their uneasy situation, from which they escaped with some
+bruises.
+
+<p>The next morning we got out early, and the wind being westerly, rowed the
+whole day for the head-land we had seen the night before; but when we had
+got that length, could find no harbour, but were obliged to go into a sandy
+bay, and lay the whole night upon our oars, and a most dreadful one it
+proved, blowing and raining very hard. Here we were so pinched with hunger,
+that we eat the shoes off our feet, which consisted of raw seal-skin. In
+the morning we got out of the bay, but the incessant foul weather had
+overcome us, and we began to be indifferent as to what befel us; and the
+boats in the night making into a bay, we nearly lost the yawl, a breaker
+having filled her and driven her ashore upon the beach. This, by some of
+our accounts, was Christmas-day; but our accounts had so often been
+interrupted by our distresses, that there was no depending upon them. Upon
+seeing the yawl in this imminent danger, the barge stood off and went into
+another bay to the northward of it, where it was smoother lying; but there
+was no possibility of getting on shore. In the night the yawl joined us
+again.
+
+<p>The next day was so bad, that we despaired reaching the head-land, so rowed
+down the bay in hopes of getting some seal, as that animal had been seen
+the day before, but met with no success; so returned to the same bay we had
+been in the night before, where the surf having abated somewhat, we went
+ashore and picked up a few shell-fish. In the morning we got on board
+early, and ran along shore to the westward for about three leagues, in
+order to get round a cape, which was the westernmost land we could see. It
+blew very hard, and there ran such a sea, that we heartily wished ourselves
+back again, and accordingly made the best of our way for that bay which we
+had left in the morning; but before we could reach it night came on, and we
+passed a most dismal one, lying upon our oars.
+
+<p>The weather continuing very bad, we put in for the shore in the morning,
+where we found nothing but tangle and sea-weed. We now passed some days
+roving about for provisions, as the weather was too bad to make another
+attempt to get round the cape as yet. We found some fine lagoons towards
+the head of the bay, and in them killed some seal, and got a good quantity
+of shell-fish, which was a great relief to us. We now made a second attempt
+to double the cape; but when we got the length of it, and passed the first
+head-land, for it consists of three of an equal height, we got into a sea
+that was horrid, for it ran all in heaps like the Race of Portland, but
+much worse. We were happy to put back to the old place, with little hopes
+of ever getting round this cape.
+
+<p>Next day, the weather proving very bad, all hands went ashore to procure
+some sustenance, except two in each boat, which were left as boat-keepers:
+this office we took by turns, and it was now my lot to be upon this duty
+with another man. The yawl lay within us at a grapnel; in the night it blew
+very hard, and a great sea tumbled in upon the shore; but being extremely
+fatigued, we in the boats went to sleep: notwithstanding, however, I was at
+last awakened by the uncommon motion of the boat, and the roaring of the
+breakers every where about us. At the same time I heard a shrieking, like
+to that of persons in distress; I looked out, and saw the yawl canted
+bottom upwards by a sea, and soon afterwards disappeared. One of our men,
+whose name was William Rose, a quarter-master, was drowned; the other was
+thrown ashore by the surf, with his head buried in the sand, but by the
+immediate assistance of the people on shore, was saved. As for us in the
+barge, we expected the same fate every moment, for the sea broke a long way
+without us. However, we got her head to it, and hove up our grapnel, or
+should rather say kellick, which we had made to serve in the room of our
+grapnel, hove overboard some time before to lighten the boat. By this means
+we used our utmost efforts to pull her without the breakers some way, and
+then let go our kellick again. Here we lay all the next day in a great sea,
+not knowing what would be our fate. To add to our mortification, we could
+see our companions in tolerable plight ashore, eating seal, while we were
+starving with hunger and cold. For this month past we had not known what it
+was to have a dry thread about us.
+
+<p>The next day being something more moderate, we ventured in with the barge
+as near as we could to the shore, and our companions threw us some seals
+liver, which having eat greedily, we were seized with excessive sickness,
+which affected us so much that our skin peeled off from, head to foot.
+
+<p>Whilst the people were on shore here, Mr Hamilton met with a large seal or
+sea-lion, and fired a brace of balls into him, upon which the animal turned
+upon him open-mouthed; but presently fixing his bayonet, he thrust it down
+its throat, with, a good part of the barrel of the gun, which the creature
+bit in two seemingly with as much ease as if it had been a twig.
+Notwithstanding the wounds it received, it eluded all farther efforts to
+kill it, and got clear off.
+
+<p>I call this animal a large seal or sea-lion, because it resembles a seal in
+many particulars; but then it exceeds it so much in size, as to be
+sufficiently determined, by that distinction only, to be of another
+species. Mr Walter, in Lord Anson's voyage, has given a particular
+description of those which are seen about Juan Fernandes; but they have in
+other climates different appearances as well as different qualities, as we
+had occasion to observe in this and a late voyage I made. However, as so
+much already has been said of the sea-lion, I shall only mention two
+peculiarities, one relative to its appearance, and the other to its
+properties of action, which distinguish it from those described by him.
+Those I saw were without that snout or trunk hanging below the end of the
+upper jaw; but then the males were furnished with a large shaggy mane,
+which gave them a most formidable appearance. And, whereas, he says those
+he saw were unwieldy and easily destroyed, we found some, on the contrary,
+that lay at a mile's distance from the water, which came down upon us when
+disturbed with such impetuosity, that it was as much as we could do to get
+out of their way; and, when attacked, would turn upon us with, great
+agility.
+
+<p>Having lost the yawl, and being too many for the barge to carry off, we
+were compelled to leave four of our men behind. They were all marines, who
+seemed to have no great objection to the determination made with regard to
+them, so exceedingly disheartened and worn out were they with the
+distresses and dangers they had already gone through. And, indeed, I
+believe it would have been a matter of indifference to the greatest part of
+the rest, whether they should embark or take their chance. The captain
+distributed to these poor fellows arms and ammunition, and some other
+necessaries. When we parted, they stood upon the beach, giving us three
+cheers, and called out, God bless the King! We saw them a little after
+setting out upon their forlorn hope, and helping one another over a hideous
+tract of rocks; but considering the difficulties attending this only way of
+travelling left them, for the woods are impracticable, from their thickness
+and the deep swamps every where to be met in them; considering too that the
+coast here is rendered so inhospitable by the heavy seas that are
+constantly tumbling upon it, as not to afford even a little shell-fish, it
+is probable that all met with a miserable end.
+
+<p>We rowed along shore to the westward in order to make one more attempt to
+double the cape; when abreast of the first head-land, there ran such a sea
+that we expected every moment the boat would go down. But as the
+preservation of life had now in a great measure lost its actuating
+principle upon us, we still kept pushing through it, till we opened a bay
+to the northward. In all my life I never saw so dreadful a sea as drove in
+here; it began to break at more than half a mile from the shore. Perceiving
+now that it was impossible for any boat to get round, the men lay upon
+their oars till the boat was very near the breakers, the mountainous swell
+that then ran heaving her in at a great rate. I thought it was their
+intention to put an end to their lives and misery at once, but nobody spoke
+for some time. At last Captain Cheap told them they must either perish
+immediately, or pull stoutly for it to get off the shore, but they might do
+as they pleased. They chose, however, to exert themselves a little, and
+after infinite difficulty got round the head-land again, giving up all
+thoughts of making any further attempt to double the cape. It was night
+before we could get back to the bay, where we were compelled to leave four
+of our men, in order to save, if possible, the remainder; for we must all
+have certainly perished, if more than sixteen had been crowded into so
+small a boat: this bay we named Marine Bay. When we had returned to this
+bay, we found the surf ran so high, that we were obliged to lay upon our
+oars all night; and it was now resolved to go back to Wager's island, there
+to linger out a miserable life, as we had not the least prospect of
+returning home.
+
+<p>But before we set out, in consequence of this resolution, it was necessary,
+if possible, to get some little stock of seal to support us in a passage,
+upon which, whenever we might put in, we were not likely to meet with any
+supply. Accordingly, it was determined to go up that lagoon, in which, we
+had before got some seal, to provide ourselves with some more, but we did
+not leave the bay till we had made some search after the unhappy marines we
+had left on shore. Could we have found them, we had now agreed to take them
+on board again, though it would have been the certain destruction of us
+all. This, at another time, would have been mere madness; but we were now
+resigned to our fate, which we none of us thought far off; however, there
+was nothing to be seen of them, and no traces but a musket on the beach.
+
+<p>Upon returning up the lagoon, we were so fortunate as to kill some seal,
+which we boiled and laid in the boat for sea-stock. While we were ranging
+along shore in detached parties in quest of this and whatever other eatable
+might come in our way, our surgeon, who was then by himself, discovered a
+pretty large hole, which seemed to lead to some den or repository within
+the rocks. It was not so rude or natural, but that there were some signs of
+its having been cleared and made more accessible by industry. The surgeon
+for some time hesitated whether he should venture in, from his uncertainty
+as to the reception he might meet with from any inhabitant; but his
+curiosity getting the better of his fears, he determined to go in, which he
+did upon his hands and knees, as the passage was too low for him to enter
+otherwise.
+
+<p>After having proceeded a considerable way thus, he arrived at a spacious
+chamber, but whether hollowed out by hands, or natural, he could not be
+positive. The light into this chamber was conveyed through a hole at the
+top; in the midst was a kind of bier, made of sticks laid crossways,
+supported by props of about five feet in height. Upon this bier five or six
+bodies were extended, which, in appearance, had been deposited there a long
+time, but had suffered no decay or diminution. They were without covering,
+and the flesh of their bodies was become perfectly dry and hard, which
+whether done by any art or secret the savages may be possessed of, or
+occasioned by any drying virtue in the air of the cave, could not be
+guessed. Indeed, the surgeon finding nothing there to eat, which was his
+chief inducement for his creeping into this hole, did not amuse himself
+with long disquisitions, or make that accurate examination which he would
+have done at another time; but crawling out as he came in, he went and told
+the first he met of what he had seen. Some had the curiosity to go in
+likewise.
+
+<p>I had forgot to mention that there was another range of bodies deposited in
+the same manner upon another platform under the bier. Probably this was the
+burial-place of their great men called Caciques; but from whence they could
+be brought we were utterly at a loss to conceive, there being no traces of
+any Indian settlement hereabout. We had seen no savages since we left the
+island, or observed any marks in the coves or bays to the northward where
+we had touched, such as of fire-places or old wig-wams, which they never
+fail of leaving behind them; and it is very probable, from the violent seas
+that are always beating upon this coast, its deformed aspect, and the very
+swampy soil that every where borders upon it, that it is little frequented.
+
+<p>We now crossed the first bay for the head-land we left on Christmas-day,
+much dejected; for under our former sufferings we were in some measure
+supported with the hopes, that as we advanced, however little, they were so
+much the nearer their termination; but now our prospect was dismal and
+dispiriting indeed, as we had the same difficulties and dangers to
+encounter, not only without any flattering views to lessen them, but under
+the aggravating circumstance of their leading to an inevitable and
+miserable death; for we could not possibly conceive that the fate of
+starving could be avoided by any human means, upon, that desolate island we
+were returning to. The shell-fish, which was the only subsistence that
+island had hitherto afforded in any measure, was exhausted; and the Indians
+had shewn themselves so little affected by the common incitements of
+compassion, that we had no hopes to build upon any impressions of that sort
+in them. They had already refused to barter their dogs with us, for want of
+a valuable commodity on our side; so that it is wonderful we did not give
+ourselves up to despondency, and lay aside all farther attempts; but we
+were supported by that invisible Power, who can make the most untoward
+circumstances subservient to his gracious purposes.
+
+<p>At this time our usual bad weather attended us; the night too set in long
+before we could reach the cove we before had taken shelter in, so that we
+were obliged to keep the boat's head to the sea all night, the sea every
+where astern of us running over hideous breakers. In the morning, we
+designed standing over for that island in which we had observed those
+strait and lofty trees before-mentioned, and which Captain Cheap named
+Montrose Island; but as soon as we opened the head-land to the westward of
+us, a sudden squall took the boat, and very near overset her. We were
+instantly full of water; but by baling with our hats and hands, and any
+thing that would hold water, we with difficulty freed her. Under this
+alarming circumstance, we found it advisable to return back and put in to
+the cove which the night before we were prevented getting into. We were
+detained here two or three days by exceeding bad weather, so that had we
+not fortunately provided ourselves with some seal, we must have starved,
+for this place afforded us nothing.
+
+<p>At length we reached Montrose Island. This is by much the best and
+pleasantest spot we had seen in this part of the world, though it has
+nothing on it eatable but some berries, which resemble goose-berries in
+flavour: they are of a black hue, and grow in swampy ground; and the bush
+or tree that bears them, is much taller than that of our goose berries. We
+remained here some time, living upon these berries and the remainder of our
+seal, which was now grown quite rotten. Our two or three first attempts to
+put out from this island were without success, the tempestuous weather
+obliging us to put back again. One of our people was much inclined to
+remain here, thinking it at least as good a place as Wager's Island to end
+his days upon; but he was obliged by the rest to go off with them. We had
+not been long out before it began to blow a storm of wind; and the mist
+came on so thick, that we could not see the land, and were at a loss which
+way to steer; but we heard the sea, which ran exceedingly high, breaking
+near us, upon which we immediately hauled aft the sheet, and hardly
+weathered the breakers by a boat's length. At the same time we shipped a
+sea that nearly filled us; it struck us with that violence as to throw me
+and one or two more down into the bottom of the boat, where we were half
+drowned before we could get up again. This was one of the most
+extraordinary escapes we had in the course of this expedition; for Captain
+Cheap and every one else had entirely given themselves up for lost.
+However, it pleased God that we got that evening into Red-wood Cove, where
+the weather continued so bad all night we could keep no fire in to dry
+ourselves with; but there being no other alternative for us but to stay
+here and starve, or put to sea again, we chose the latter, and put out in
+the morning again, though the weather was very little mended.
+
+<p>In three or four days after, we arrived at our old station, Wager's Island,
+but in such a miserable plight, that though we thought our condition upon
+setting out would not admit of any additional circumstance of misery, yet
+it was to be envied in comparison of what we now suffered, so worn and
+reduced were we by fatigue and hunger, having eat nothing for some days but
+sea-weed and tangle. Upon this expedition, we had been out, by our account,
+just two months; in which we had rounded, backwards and forwards, the great
+bay formed to the northward by that high land we had observed from Mount
+Misery.
+
+<p>The first thing we did upon our arrival was to secure the barge, as this
+was our sole dependence for any relief that might offer by sea; which done,
+we repaired to our huts, which formed a kind of village or street,
+consisting of several irregular habitations, some of which being covered by
+a kind of brush-wood thatch, afforded tolerable shelter against the
+inclemency of the weather. Among these, there was one which we observed
+with some surprise to be nailed up. We broke it open, and found some iron-
+work, picked out with much pains from those pieces of the wreck which, were
+driven ashore. We concluded from hence, that the Indians who had been here
+in our absence were not of that tribe with which we had some commerce
+before, who seemed to set no value upon iron, but from some other quarter;
+and must have had communication with the Spaniards, from whom they had
+learned the value and use of that commodity.
+
+<p>Thieving from strangers is a commendable talent among savages in general,
+and bespeaks an address which they much admire; though the strictest
+honesty with regard to the property of each other is observed among them.
+There is no doubt but they ransacked all our houses, but the men had taken
+care before they went off in the long-boat to strip them of their most
+valuable furniture, that is, the bales of cloth used for lining, and
+converted them into trowsers and watch-coats. Upon farther search, we
+found, thrown aside in the bushes at the back of one of the huts, some
+pieces of seal in a very putrid condition, which, however, our stomachs
+were far from loathing. The next business which the people set about very
+seriously, was to proceed to Mount Misery, and bury the corpse of the
+murdered person mentioned to have been discovered there some little time
+after our being cast away; for to the neglect of this necessary tribute to
+that unfortunate person the men assigned all their ill success upon the
+late expedition.
+
+<p>That common people in general are addicted to superstitious conceits, is an
+observation founded on experience, and the reason is evident; but I cannot
+allow that common seamen are more so than others of the lower class. In the
+most enlightened ages of antiquity, we find it to have been the popular
+opinion, that the spirits of the dead were not at rest till their bodies
+were interred; and that they did not cease to haunt and trouble those who
+had neglected this duty to the departed. This is still believed by the
+vulgar in most countries; and in our men this persuasion was much
+heightened by the melancholy condition they were reduced to, and was
+farther confirmed by an occurrence which happened some little time before
+we went upon our last expedition. One night we were alarmed with a strange
+cry, which resembled that of a man drowning. Many of us ran out of our huts
+towards the place from whence the noise proceeded, which was not far off
+shore, where we could perceive, but not distinctly, (for it was then
+moonlight) an appearance like that of a man swimming half out of water. The
+noise that this creature uttered was so unlike that of any animal they had
+heard before, that it made a great impression upon the men; and they
+frequently recalled this apparition at the time of their distresses, with
+reflections on the neglect of the office they were now fulfilling.
+
+<p>We were soon driven again to the greatest straits for want of something to
+subsist upon, by the extreme bad weather that now set in upon us. Wild
+sellery was all we could procure, which raked our stomachs instead of
+assuaging our hunger. That dreadful and last resource of men, in not much
+worse circumstances than ours, of consigning one man to death for the
+support of the rest, began to be mentioned in whispers; and indeed there
+were some among as who, by eating what they found raw, were become little
+better than cannibals. But fortunately for us, and opportunely to prevent
+this horrid proceeding, Mr Hamilton at this time found some rotten pieces
+of beef cast up by the sea at some miles distance from the huts, which he,
+though a temptation which few would have resisted in parallel
+circumstances, scorned to conceal from the rest, but generously distributed
+among us.
+
+<p>A few days after, the mystery of the nailing up of the hut, and what had
+been doing by the Indians upon the island in our absence, was partly
+explained to us; for about the 15th day after our return, there came a
+party of Indians to the island in two canoes, who were not a little
+surprised to find us here again. Among these, was an Indian of the tribe of
+the Chonos, who live in the neighbourhood of Chiloe.[117] He talked the
+Spanish language, but with that savage accent which renders it almost
+unintelligible to any but those who are adepts in that language. He was
+likewise a cacique, or leading man of his tribe, which authority was
+confirmed to him by the Spaniards; for he carried the usual badge and mark
+of distinction by which the Spaniards and their dependants hold their
+military and civil employments, which is a stick with a silver head. These
+badges, of which the Indians are very vain, at once serve to retain the
+cacique in the strongest attachment to the Spanish government, and give him
+greater weight with his own dependants: yet, withal, he is the merest
+slave, and has not one thing he can call his own.
+
+<blockquote>[117] Chiloe is an island on the western coast of America, situated in 42°
+40 of S. latitude, and the southernmost settlement under the Spanish
+jurisdiction on that coast.</blockquote>
+
+<p>This report of our shipwreck (as we supposed) having reached the Chonos, by
+means of the intermediate tribes, which handed it to one another from those
+Indians who first visited us, this cacique was either sent to learn the
+truth of the rumour, or, having first got the intelligence, set out with a
+view of making some advantage of the wreck, and appropriating such iron-
+work as he could gather from it to his own use; for that metal is become
+very valuable to those savages, since their commerce with the Spaniards has
+taught them to apply it to several purposes. But as the secreting any thing
+from a rapacious Spanish rey or governor (even an old rusty nail) by any of
+their Indian dependants, is a very dangerous offence, he was careful to
+conceal the little prize he had made till he could conveniently carry it
+away; for in order to make friends of these savages, we had left their
+hoard untouched.
+
+<p>Our surgeon, Mr Elliot, being master of a few Spanish words, made himself
+so far understood by the cacique, as to let him know that our intention was
+to reach some of the Spanish settlements if we could; that we were
+unacquainted with the best and safest way, and what track was most likely
+to afford us subsistence in our journey; promising, if he would undertake
+to conduct us in the barge, he should have it and every thing in it for his
+trouble as soon as it had served our present occasions. To these conditions
+the cacique, after much persuasion, at length agreed. Accordingly, having
+made the best preparation we could, we embarked on board the barge to the
+number of fifteen, including the cacique, whose name was Martin, and his
+servant Emanuel. We were, indeed, sixteen when we returned from our last
+fruitless attempt to get off the island, but we had buried two since that,
+who perished with hunger; and a marine, having committed theft, ran away to
+avoid the punishment his crime deserved, and hid himself in the woods,
+since which he was never heard of. We now put off, accompanied with the two
+Indian canoes, in one of which was a savage with his two wives, who had an
+air of dignity superior to the rest, and was handsome in his person. He had
+his hut, during his stay with us, separate from the other Indians, who
+seemed to pay him extraordinary respect; but in two or three nights, these
+Indians, being independent of the Spaniards, and living somewhere to the
+southward of our Chonos guide, left us to proceed on our journey by
+ourselves.
+
+<p>The first night we lay at an island destitute of all refreshment, where
+having found some shelter for our boat and made ourselves a fire, we slept
+by it. The next night we were more unfortunate, though our wants were
+increasing, for, having run to the westward of Montrose Island, we found no
+shelter for the barge, but were under the necessity of lying upon our oars,
+suffering the most extreme pangs of hunger. The next day brought us to the
+bottom of a great bay, where the Indian guide had left his family, a wife
+and two children, in a hut. Here we staid two or three days, during which
+we were constantly employed in ranging along shore in quest of shell-fish.
+
+<h2><a name="ch5" id="ch5">CHAPTER V.</a></h2>
+
+<p>Navigation of the River.--One of our Men dies from Fatigue.--Inhumanity of
+the Captain.--Description of our Passage through a horrible and desolate
+Country.--Our Conductor leaves us, and a Party of our Men desert with the
+Boat.--Dreadful Situation of the Remainder.--The Cacique returns.--Account
+of our Journey Overland.--Kindness of two Indian Women.--Description of the
+Indian Mode of Fishing.--Cruel Treatment of my Indian Benefactress by her
+Husband.
+
+<p>We now again proceeded on our voyage, having received on board the family
+of our guide, who conducted us to a river, the stream of which was so
+rapid, that, after our almost efforts from morning to evening, we gained
+little upon the current, and at last were obliged to desist from our
+attempt, and return. I had hitherto steered the boat, but one of our men
+sinking under the fatigue, expired soon after, which obliged me to take the
+oar in his room, and row against this heart-breaking stream. Whilst I was
+thus employed, one of our men, whose name was John Bosman, though hitherto
+the stoutest man among us, fell from his seat under the thwarts,
+complaining that his strength was quite exhausted for want of food, and
+that he should die very shortly. As he lay in this condition, he would
+every now and then break out in the most pathetic wishes for some little
+sustenance, that two or three monthfuls might be the means of saving his
+life. The captain at this time had a large piece of boiled seal by him, and
+was the only one that was provided with any thing like a meal; but we were
+become so hardened against the impressions of others sufferings by our own,
+so familiarized to scenes of this and every other kind of misery, that the
+poor man's dying entreaties were vain. I sat next to him when he dropped,
+and having a few dried shell-fish (about five or six) in my pocket, from
+time to time put one in his mouth, which served only to prolong his pains;
+from which, however, soon after my little supply failed, he was released by
+death. For this, and another man I mentioned a little before to have
+expired under the like circumstances, when we returned from this
+unsuccessful enterprize, we made a grave in the sands.
+
+<p>It would have redounded greatly to the tenderness and humanity of Captain
+Cheap, if at this time he had remitted somewhat of that attention he shewed
+to self-preservation, which is hardly allowable but where the consequence
+of relieving others must be immediately and manifestly fatal to ourselves;
+but I would venture to affirm, that in these last affecting exigencies, as
+well as some others, a sparing perhaps adequate to the emergency, might
+have been admitted consistently with a due regard to his own necessities.
+The captain had better opportunities of recruiting his stock than any of
+us; for his rank was considered by the Indians a reason for supplying him
+when he would not find a bit for us. Upon the evening of the day in which
+these disasters happened, the captain producing a large piece of boiled
+seal, suffered no one to partake with him but the surgeon, who was the only
+man in favour at this time. We did not expect, indeed, any relief from him
+in our present condition, for we had a few small mussels and herbs to eat;
+but the men could not help expressing the greatest indignation at his
+neglect of the deceased, saying, that he deserved to be deserted by the
+rest for his savage behaviour.
+
+<p>The endeavouring to pass up this river was for us, who had so long
+struggled with hunger, a most unseasonable attempt, by which we were
+harassed to a degree that threatened to be fatal to more of us; but our
+guide, without any respect to the condition our hardships had reduced us
+to, was very solicitous for us to go that way, which possibly he had gone
+before in light canoes, but for such a boat as ours, was impracticable. We
+conceived, therefore, at that time, that this was some short cut, which was
+to bring us forward in our voyage; but we had reason to think afterwards,
+that the greater probability there was of his getting the barge, which was
+the wages of his undertaking, safe to his settlement by this, rather than
+another course, was his motive for preferring it to the way we took
+afterwards, where there was a carrying place of considerable length, over
+which it would have been impossible to have carried our boat.
+
+<p>The country hereabouts wears the most uncouth, desolate, and rugged aspect
+imaginable; it is so circumstanced as to discourage the most sanguine
+adventurers from attempts to settle in it: Were it for no other reason than
+the constant heavy rains, or rather torrents, which pour down here, and the
+vast sea and surf which the prevailing westerly winds impel upon this
+coast, it must be rendered inhospitable. All entrance into the woods is not
+only extremely difficult, but hazardous, not from any assaults you are
+likely to meet with from wild beasts, for even these could hardly find
+convenient harbour here, but from the deep swamp, which is the reigning
+soil of this country, and in which the woods may be said rather to float
+than grow; so that, except upon a range of deformed broken rocks which form
+the sea-coast, the traveller cannot find sound footing any where. With this
+unpromising scene before us we were now setting out in search of food,
+which nothing but the most pressing instances of hunger could induce us to
+do: We had, indeed, the young Indian servant to our cacique for our
+conductor, who was left by him to show us where the shell-fish was most
+plenty. The cacique was gone with the rest of his family in the canoe, with
+a view of getting some seal, upon a trip which would detain him from us
+three or four days.
+
+<p>After searching the coast some time with very little success, we began to
+think of returning to the barge; but six of the men, with the Indian,
+having advanced some few paces before the officers, got into the boat
+first, which they had no sooner done than they put off and left us, to
+return no more. And now all the difficulties we had hitherto endured seemed
+light in comparison of what we expected to suffer from this treachery of
+our men, who, with the boat, had taken away every thing that might be the
+means of preserving our lives. The little clothes we had saved from the
+wreck, our muskets and ammunition, were gone, except a little powder, which
+must be preserved for kindling fires, and one gun which I had, and was now
+become useless for want of ammunition; and all these wants were now come
+upon us at a time when we could not be worse situated for supplying them.
+Yet under these dismal and forlorn appearances was our delivery now
+preparing; and from these hopeless circumstances were we to draw hereafter
+an instance scarce to be paralleled, of the unsearchable ways of
+Providence.
+
+<p>It was at that time little suspected by us, that the barge, in which we
+founded all our hopes of escaping from this savage coast, would certainly
+have proved the fatal cause of detaining us till we were consumed by the
+labour and hardships requisite to row her round the capes and great
+headlands; for it was impossible to carry her by land as we did the boats
+of the Indians. At present, no condition could be worse than we thought
+ours to be: There ran at this time a very high sea, which breaking with
+great fury upon this coast, made it very improbable that sustenance in any
+proportion to our wants could be found upon it; yet unpromising as this
+prospect was, and though little succour could be expected from this
+quarter, I could not help, as I strolled along shore from the rest, casting
+my eyes towards the sea. Continuing thus to look out, I thought I saw
+something now and then upon the top of a sea that looked black, which, upon
+observing still more intently, I imagined at last to be a canoe; but
+reflecting afterwards how unusual it was for Indians to venture out in so
+mountainous a sea, and at such a distance from the land, I concluded myself
+to be deceived. However, its nearer approach convinced me, beyond all
+doubt, of its being a canoe; but that it could not put in any where
+hereabouts, but intended for some other part of the coast. I ran back as
+fast as I could to my companions, and acquainted them with what I had seen.
+
+<p>The despondency they were in would not allow them to give credit to it at
+first; but afterwards, being convinced that it was as I reported it, we
+were all in the greatest hurry to strip off some of our rags to make a
+signal withal, which we fixed upon a long pole. This had the desired
+effect: The people in the canoe seeing the signal, made towards the land at
+about two miles distance from us, for no boat could approach the land where
+we were. There they put into a small cove, sheltered by a large ledge of
+rocks without, which broke the violence of the sea. Captain Cheap and I
+walked along shore, and got to the cove about the time they landed. Here we
+found the persons arrived in this canoe to be our Indian guide and his
+wife, who had left us some days before. He would have asked us many
+questions, but neither Captain Cheap nor I understanding Spanish at that
+time, we took him along with us to the surgeon, whom we had left so ill
+that he could hardly raise himself from the ground.
+
+<p>When the Indian began to confer with the surgeon, the first question was,
+What was become of the barge and his companions? and as he could give him
+no satisfactory answer to this question, the Indian took it for granted
+that Emanuel was murdered by us, and that he and his family ran the same
+risk; upon which he was preparing to provide for his security, by leaving
+us directly. The surgeon seeing this, did all in his power to pacify him,
+and convince him of the unreasonableness of his apprehensions, which he at
+length found means to do, by assuring him that the Indian would come to no
+harm, but that he would soon see him return safe: which providentially, and
+beyond our expectation, happened accordingly, for in a few days after,
+Emanuel, having contrived to make his escape from the people in the barge,
+returned by ways that were impassable to any creature but an Indian. All
+that we could learn from Emanuel relative to his escape was, that he took
+the first opportunity of leaving them, which was upon their putting into a
+bay somewhere to the westward.
+
+<p>We had but one gun among us, and that was a small fowling-piece of mine; no
+ammunition but a few charges of powder I had about me; and as the Indian
+was very desirous of returning to the place where he had left his wife and
+canoe, Captain Cheap desired I would go with him and watch over him all
+night, to prevent his getting away. Accordingly I set out with him, and
+when he and his family betook themselves to rest in the little wigwam they
+had made for that purpose, I kept my station as centinel over them all
+night.
+
+<p>The next morning Captain Cheap, Mr Hamilton, and the surgeon joined us; the
+latter, by illness, being reduced to the most feeble condition, was
+supported by Mr Hamilton and Mr Campbell. After holding some little
+consultation together, as to the best manner of proceeding in our journey,
+it was agreed, that the Indian should haul his canoe, with our assistance,
+over land, quite across the island we were then upon, and put her into a
+bay on the other side, from whence he was to go in quest of some other
+Indians by whom he expected to be joined; but as his canoe was too small to
+carry more than three or four persons, he thought it advisable to take only
+Captain Cheap and myself with him, and to leave his wife and children as
+pledges with our companions till his return.
+
+<p>As it was matter of uncertainty whether we should ever recover the barge or
+not, which was stipulated, on our side, to become the property of the
+cacique upon his fulfilling his engagements with us; the inducements we now
+made use of to prevail upon him to proceed with us in our journey were,
+that he should have my fowling-piece, some little matters in the possession
+of Captain Cheap, and that we would use our interest to procure him some
+small pecuniary reward.
+
+<p>We were now to set off in the canoe, in which I was to assist him in
+rowing. Accordingly, putting from this island, we rowed hard all this day
+and the next, without any thing to eat but a scrap of seal, a very small
+portion of which fell to my share. About two hours after the close of the
+day, we put ashore, where we discovered six or seven wigwams. For my part,
+my strength was so exhausted with fatigue and hunger, that it would have
+been impossible for me to have held out another day at this toilsome work.
+As soon as we landed, the Indian conducted Captain Cheap with him into a
+wigwam, but I was left to shift for myself.
+
+<p>Thus left, I was for some time at a loss what I had best do, for knowing
+that in the variety of dispositions observable among the Indians, the surly
+and savage temper is the most prevalent, I had good reason to conclude,
+that if I obtruded myself upon them, my reception would be but indifferent.
+Necessity, however, put me upon the risk; I accordingly pushed into the
+next wigwam upon my hands and knees, for the entrance into these kind of
+buildings is too low to admit of any other manner of getting into them. To
+give a short description of these temporary houses called wigwams, may not
+be improper here, for the satisfaction of those who never saw any,
+especially as they differ somewhat from those of North America, which are
+more generally known from the numerous accounts of that country.
+
+<p>When the Indians of this part of the world have occasion to stop any where
+in their rambles, if it be only for a night or two, the men, who take this
+business upon them, while the women are employed in much more laborious
+offices, such as diving in the sea for sea-eggs, and searching the rocks
+for shell-fish, getting fuel, &amp;c., repair to the woods, and cutting a
+sufficient number of tall strait branches, fix them in an irregular kind of
+circle of uncertain dimensions; which having done, they bend the
+extremities of these branches so as to meet in a centre at top, where they
+bind them by a kind of woodbine called supple-jack, which they split by
+holding it in their teeth. This frame, or skeleton of a hut, is made tight
+against the weather with a covering of boughs and bark; but as the bark is
+not got without some trouble, they generally take it with them when they
+remove, putting it at the bottom of their canoes: The rest of the wigwam
+they leave standing. The fire is made in the middle of the wigwam, round
+which they sit upon boughs; and as there is no vent for the smoke besides
+the door-way, which is very low, except through some crevices which cannot
+easily be stopped, they are not a little incommoded on that account, and
+the eyes of some of them are much affected by it.
+
+<p>But to return. In this wigwam, into which I took the liberty to introduce
+myself, I found only two women, who, upon first seeing a figure they were
+not accustomed to, and such a figure too as I then made, were struck with
+astonishment. They were sitting by a fire, to which I approached without
+any apology. However inclined I might have been to make one, my ignorance
+of their language made it impossible to attempt it. One of these women
+appeared to be young, and very handsome for an Indian; the other old, and
+as frightful as it is possible to conceive any thing in human shape to be.
+Having stared at me some little time, they both went out; and I, without
+farther ceremony, sat me down by the fire to warm myself and dry the rags I
+wore. Yet I cannot say my situation was very easy, as I expected every
+instant to see two or three men come in and thrust me out, if they did not
+deal with me in a rougher manner.
+
+<p>Soon after, the two women came in again, having, as I supposed, conferred
+with the Indian our conductor; and, appearing to be in great good humour,
+began to chatter and laugh immoderately. Perceiving the wet and cold
+condition I was in, they seemed to have compassion on me, and the old woman
+went out and brought some wood, with which she made a good fire; but my
+hunger being impatient, I could not forbear expressing my desire that they
+would extend their hospitality a little farther, and bring me something so
+eat. They soon comprehended my meaning, and the younger beginning to
+rummage under some pieces of bark that lay in the corner of the wigwam,
+produced a fine large fish; this they presently put upon the fire to broil,
+and when it was just warm through, they made a sign for me to eat. They had
+no need to repeat the invitation; I fell to, and dispatched it in so short
+a time, that I was in hopes they would comprehend, without further tokens,
+that I was ready for another; but it was of no consequence, for their stock
+of eatables was entirely exhausted.
+
+<p>After sitting some time in conference together, in which conversation I
+could bear no part, the women made some signs to me to lay down and go to
+sleep, first having strewed some dry boughs upon the ground. I laid myself
+down, and soon fell fast asleep; and about three or four hours after
+awaking, I found myself covered with a bit of blanket, made of the down of
+birds, which the women usually wear about their waist. The young woman, who
+had carefully covered me, whilst sleeping, with her own blanket, was lying
+close by me; the old woman lay on the other side of her. The fire was low
+and almost burnt out; but as soon as they found me awake they renewed it,
+by putting on more fuel. What I had hitherto eat served only to sharpen my
+appetite; I could not help, therefore, being earnest with them to get me
+some more victuals. Having understood my necessities, they talked together
+some little time; after which getting up, they both went out, taking with
+them a couple of dogs, which they train to assist them in fishing. After an
+hour's absence they came in trembling with cold, and their hair streaming
+with water, and brought two fish, which having broiled, they gave me the
+largest share, and then we all lay down as before to rest.
+
+<p>In the morning, my curiosity led me to visit the neighbouring wigwams, in
+which were only one or two men, the rest of the inhabitants were all women
+and children. I then proceeded to enquire after Captain Cheap and our
+Indian guide, whom I found in the wigwam they at first occupied: The
+authority of the cacique had procured the captain no despicable
+entertainment. We could not learn what business the men, whose wives and
+children were here left behind, were gone out upon; but as they seldom or
+never go upon fishing parties (for they have no hunting here) without their
+wives, who take the most laborious part of this pursuit upon themselves, it
+is probable they were gone upon some warlike expedition, in which they use
+bows and arrows sometimes, but always the lance. This weapon they throw
+with great dexterity and force, and never stir abroad without it.
+
+<p>About this time their return was looked for, a hearing by no means pleasant
+to me; I was therefore determined to enjoy myself as long as they were
+absent, and make the most of the good fare I was possessed of, to the
+pleasure of which I thought a little cleanliness might in some measure
+contribute; I therefore went to a brook, and taking off my shirt, which
+might be said to be alive with vermin, set myself about to wash it; which
+having done as well as I could, and hung on a bush to dry, I heard a bustle
+about the wigwams, and soon perceived that the women were preparing to
+depart, having stripped their wigwams of their bark covering, and carried
+it into their canoes. Putting on, therefore, my shirt just as it was, I
+hastened to join them, having a great desire of being present at one of
+their fishing parties.
+
+<p>It was my lot to be put into the canoe with my two patronesses and some
+others who assisted in rowing; we were in all four canoes. After rowing
+some time, they gained such an offing as they required, where the water
+here was about eight or ten fathoms deep, and there lay upon their oars.
+And now the youngest of the two women, taking a basket in her mouth, jumped
+overboard, and diving to the bottom, continued under water an amazing time;
+when she had filled the basket with sea-eggs, she came up to the boat-side,
+and delivering it so filled to the other women in the boat, they took out
+the contents and returned it to her. The diver then, after having taken a
+short time to breathe, went down and up again with the same success, and so
+several times for the space of half an hour. It seems as if Providence had
+endued this people with a kind of amphibious nature, as the sea is the only
+source from whence almost all their subsistence is derived. This element
+too, being here very boisterous, and falling with a most heavy surf upon a
+rugged coast, very little, except some seal, is to be got any where but in
+the quiet bosom of the deep. What occasions this reflection, is the early
+propensity I had so frequently observed in the children of these savages to
+this occupation, who, even at the age of three years, might be seen
+crawling upon their hands and knees among the rocks and breakers, from
+which they would tumble themselves into the sea without regard to the cold,
+which is here often intense, and shewing no fear of the noise and roaring
+of the surf.
+
+<p>This sea-egg is a shell-fish, from which several prickles project in all
+directions, by means whereof it removes itself from place to place. In it
+are found four or five yolks, resembling the inner divisions of an orange,
+which are of a very nutritive quality and excellent flavour.
+
+<p>The water was at this time extremely cold, and when the divers got into the
+boats, they seemed greatly benumbed; and it is usual with them after this
+exercise, if they are near enough their wigwams, to run to the fire, to
+which presenting one side, they rub and chafe it for some time; then
+turning the other, use it in the same manner till the circulation of the
+blood is restored. This practice, if it has no worse effect, must occasion
+their being more susceptible of the impressions of cold than if they waited
+the gradual advances of their natural warmth in the open air. I leave it to
+the decision of the gentlemen of the faculty, whether this too hasty
+approach to the fire may not subject them to a disorder I have observed
+among them, called the elephantiasis, or swelling of the legs.[118]
+
+<blockquote>[118] There are two very different disorders incident to the human body,
+which bear the same name, derived from some resemblance they hold with
+different parts of the animal so well known in the countries to which
+these disorders are peculiar. That which was first so named is the
+leprosy, which brings a scurf on the skin not unlike the hide of an
+elephant. The other affects the patient with such enormous swelling of
+the legs and feet, that they give the idea of those shapeless pillars
+which support that creature; and therefore this disease has also been
+called elephantiasis by the Arabian physicians; who, together with the
+Malabrians, among whom it is endemial, attribute it to the drinking
+bad waters, and the too sudden transitions from heat to cold.</blockquote>
+
+<p>The divers having returned to their boats, we continued to row till towards
+evening, when we landed upon a low point. As soon as the canoes were hauled
+up, they employed themselves in erecting their wigwams, which they dispatch
+with great address and quickness. I still enjoyed the protection of my two
+good Indian women, who made me their guest here as before; they first
+regaled me with sea-eggs, and then went out upon another kind of fishery by
+the means of dogs and nets. These dogs are a cur-like looking animal, but
+very sagacious, and easily trained to this business. Though in appearance
+an uncomfortable sort of sport, yet they engage in it readily, seem to
+enjoy it much, and express their eagerness by barking every time they raise
+their heads above the water to breathe. The net is held by two Indians, who
+get into the water; then the dogs, taking a large compass, dive after the
+fish, and drive them into the net; but it is only in particular places that
+the fish are taken in this manner. At the close of the evening, the women
+brought in two fish, which served us for supper, and then we reposed
+ourselves as before. Here we remained all the next day, and the morning
+after embarked again, and rowed till noon; then landing, we descried the
+canoes of the Indian men, who had been some time expected from an
+expedition they had been upon. This was soon to make a great alteration in
+the situation of my affairs, a presage of which I could read in the
+melancholy countenance of my young hostess. She endeavoured to express
+herself in very earnest terms to me, but I had not yet acquired a competent
+knowledge of the Indian language to understand her.
+
+<p>As soon as the men were landed, she and the old Indian woman went up, not
+without some marks of dread upon them, to an elderly Indian man, whose
+remarkably surly and stern countenance was well calculated to raise such
+sensations in his dependants. He seemed to be a cacique or chief man among
+them, by the airs of importance he assumed to himself, and the deference
+paid him by the rest. After some little conference passed between these
+Indians and our cacique conductor, of which, most probably, the
+circumstances of our history and the occasion of our coming here might be
+the chief subject, for they fixed their eyes constantly upon us, they
+applied themselves to building their wigwams.
+
+<p>I now understood that the two Indian women with whom I had sojourned were
+wives to this chieftain, though one was young enough to be his daughter;
+and as far as I could learn, did really stand in the different relations to
+him both of daughter and wife. It was easy to be perceived that all did not
+go well between them at this time, either that he was not satisfied with
+the answers that they returned him to his questions, or that he suspected
+some misconduct on their side; for presently after breaking out into savage
+fury, he took the young one up in his arms, and threw her with violence
+against the stones; but his brutal resentment did not stop here, he beat
+her afterwards in a cruel manner. I could not see this treatment of my
+benefactress without the highest concern for her, and rage against the
+author of it; especially as the natural jealousy of these people gave
+occasion to think that it was on my account she suffered. I could hardly
+suppress the first emotions of my resentment, which prompted me to return
+him his barbarity in his own kind; but besides that this might have drawn
+upon her fresh marks of his severity, it was neither politic, nor indeed in
+my power to have done it to any good purpose at this time.
+
+<h2><a name="ch6" id="ch6">CHAPTER VI.</a></h2>
+
+<p>The Cacique's Conduct changes.--Description of the Indian Mode of
+Bird-fowling.--Their Religion.--Mr Elliot, our Surgeon, dies.--Transactions
+on our Journey.--Miserable Situation to which we are reduced.
+
+<p>Our cacique now made us understand that we must embark directly in the same
+canoe which brought us, and return to our companions; and that the Indians
+we were about to leave would join us in a few days, when we should all set
+out in a body, in order to proceed to the northward. In our way back
+nothing very material happened; but upon our arrival, which was the next
+day, we found Mr Elliot, the surgeon, in a very bad way; his illness had
+been continually increasing since we left him. Mr Hamilton and Mr Campbell
+were almost starved, having fared very ill since we left them; a few sea-
+eggs were all the subsistence they had lived upon, and these procured by
+the cacique's wife in the manner I mentioned before. This woman was the
+very reverse of my hostess; and as she found her husband was of so much
+consequence to us, took upon her with much haughtiness, and treated us as
+dependants and slaves. He was not more engaging in his carriage towards us;
+he would give no part of what he had to spare to any but Captain Cheap,
+whom his interest led him to prefer to the rest, though our wants were
+often greater. The captain, on his part, contributed to keep us in this
+abject situation, by approving this distinction the cacique shewed to him.
+Had he treated us with not quite so much distance, the cacique might have
+been more regardful of our wants. The little regard and attention which our
+necessitous condition drew from Captain Cheap, may be imputed likewise, in
+some measure, to the effects of a mind soured by a series of crosses and
+disappointments; which, indeed, had operated on us all to a great neglect
+of each other, and sometimes of ourselves.
+
+<p>We were not suffered to be in the same wigwam with the cacique and his
+wife, which, if we had had any countenance from Captain Cheap, would not
+have been refused. What we had made for ourselves was in such a bungling
+manner, that it scarce deserved the name even of this wretched sort of
+habitation. But our untoward circumstances now found some relief in the
+arrival of the Indians we waited for, who brought with them some seal, a
+small portion of which fell to our share. A night or two after, they sent
+out some of their young men, who procured us a quantity of a very delicate
+kind of birds, called shags and cormorants. Their manner of taking these
+birds resembles something a sport called bat-fowling. They find out their
+haunts among the rocks and cliffs in the night, when, taking with them
+torches made of the bark of the birch tree, which is common here, and grows
+to a very large size, (this bark has a very unctuous qaality, and emits a
+bright and clear light, and in the northern parts of America is used
+frequently instead of a candle) they bring the boat's side as near as
+possible to the rocks, under the roosting-places of these birds, then
+waving their lights backwards and forwards, the birds are dazzled and
+confounded so as to fall into the canoe, where they are instantly knocked
+on the head with a short stick the Indians take with them for that purpose.
+
+<p>Seal are taken in some less-frequented parts of these coasts with great
+ease; but when their haunts have been two or three times disturbed, they
+soon learn to provide for their safety, by repairing to the water upon the
+first alarm. This is the case with them hereabouts; but as they frequently
+raise their heads above water, either to breathe or look about them, I have
+seen an Indian at this interval throw his lance with such dexterity, as to
+strike the animal through both its eyes at a great distance; and it is very
+seldom that they miss their aim.
+
+<p>As we were wholly unacquainted with these methods of providing food for
+ourselves, and were without arms and ammunition, we were drove to the
+utmost straits, and found ourselves rather in worse condition than we had
+been at any time before; for the Indians, having now nothing to fear from
+us, we found we had nothing to expect from them upon any other motive.
+Accordingly, if they ever did relieve us, it was through caprice; for at
+most times, they would shew themselves unconcerned at our greatest
+distresses. But the good Indian women, whose friendship I had experienced
+before, continued, from time to time, their good offices to me. Though I
+was not suffered to enter their wigwams, they would find opportunities of
+throwing in my way such scraps as they could secrete from their husbands.
+The obligation I was under to them on this account is great, as the hazard
+they ran in conferring these favours was little less than death. The men,
+unrestrained by any laws or ties of conscience in the management of their
+own families, exercise a most despotic authority over their wives, whom
+they consider in the same view they do any other part of their property,
+and dispose of them accordingly: Even their common treatment of them is
+cruel; for though the toil and hazard of procuring food lies entirely upon
+the women, yet they are not suffered to touch any part of it till the
+husband is satisfied, and then he assigns them their portion, which is
+generally very scanty, and such as he has not a stomach for himself. This
+arbitrary proceeding, with respect to their own families, is not peculiar
+to this people only. I have had occasion to observe it in more instances
+than this I have mentioned, among many other nations of savages I have
+since seen.
+
+<p>These Indians are of a middling stature, well set, and very active, and
+make their way among the rocks with an amazing agility. Their feet, by this
+kind of exercise, contract a callosity which renders the use of shoes quite
+unnecessary to them. But before I conclude the few observations I have to
+make on a people so confined in all their notions and practice, it may be
+expected I should say something of their religion; but as their gross
+ignorance is in nothing more conspicuous, and as we found it advisable to
+keep out of their way when the fits of devotion came upon them, which is
+rather frantic than religious, the reader can expect very little
+satisfaction on this head. Accident has sometimes made me unavoidably a
+spectator of scenes I should have chosen to have withdrawn myself from; and
+so far I am instructed. As there are no fixed seasons for their religious
+exercises, the younger people wait till the elders find themselves devoutly
+disposed, who begin the ceremony by several deep and dismal groans, which
+rise gradually to a hideous kind of singing, from which they proceed to
+enthusiasm, and work themselves into a disposition that borders on madness;
+for, suddenly jumping up, they snatch fire-brands from the fire, put them
+in their mouths, and run about burning every body they come near; at other
+times it is a custom with them to wound one another with sharp mussel-
+shells till they are besmeared with blood. These orgies continue till these
+who preside in them foam at the mouth, grow faint, are exhausted with
+fatigue, and dissolve in a profusion of sweat. When the men drop their part
+in this frenzy, the women take it up, acting over again much the same kind
+of wild scene, except that they rather outdo the men in shrieks and noise.
+Our cacique, who had been reclaimed from these abominations by the
+Spaniards, and just knew the exterior form of crossing himself, pretended
+to be much offended at these profane ceremonies, and that he would have
+died sooner than have partaken of them. Among other expressions of his
+disapprobation, he declared, that whilst the savages solemnized these
+horrid rites, he never failed to hear strange and uncommon noises in the
+woods, and to see frightful visions, and assured us that the devil was the
+chief actor among them upon these occasions.
+
+<p>It might be about the middle of March that we embarked with these Indians.
+They separated our little company entirely, not putting any two of us
+together in the same canoe. The oar was my lot, as usual, as also Mr
+Campbell's; Mr Hamilton could not row, and Captain Cheap was out of the
+question; our surgeon was more dead than alive at the time, and lay at the
+bottom of the canoe he was in. The weather coming on too bad for their
+canoes to keep the sea, we landed again, without making any great progress
+that day. Here Mr Elliot, our surgeon, died. At our first setting out, he
+promised the fairest for holding out, being a very strong active young man:
+He had gone through an infinite deal of fatigue, as Mr Hamilton and he were
+the best shots amongst us, and whilst our ammunition lasted never spared
+themselves, and in a great measure provided for the rest; but he died the
+death many others had done before him, being quite starved. We scraped a
+hole for him in the sand, and buried him in the best manner we could.
+
+<p>Here I must relate a little anecdote of our Christian cacique. He and his
+wife had gone off at some distance from the shore in their canoe, when she
+dived for sea-eggs; but not meeting with great success, they returned a
+good deal out of humour. A little boy of theirs, about three years old,
+whom they appeared to be doatingly fond of, watching for his father and
+mother's return, ran into the surf to meet them: The father handed a basket
+of sea-eggs to the child, which being too heavy for him to carry, he let it
+fall; upon which the father jumped out of the canoe, and catching the boy
+up in his arms, dashed him with the utmost violence against the stones. The
+poor little creature lay motionless and bleeding, and in that condition was
+taken up by the mother, but died soon after. She appeared inconsolable for
+some time, but the brute his father shewed little concern about it.
+
+<p>A day or two after we put to sea again, and crossed the great bay I
+mentioned we had been to the bottom of, when we first hauled away to the
+westward. The land here was very low and sandy, with something like the
+mouth of a river, which discharged itself into the sea, and which had been
+taken no notice of by us before, as it was so shallow that the Indians were
+obliged to take every thing out of their canoes, and carry it over the neck
+of land, and then, haul the boats over into a river which at this part of
+it was very broad, more resembling a lake than a river. We rowed up it for
+four or five leagues, and then took into a branch of it, that ran first to
+the eastward, and then to the northward: Here it became much narrower, and
+the stream excessively rapid, so that we made but little way, though we
+worked very hard. At night we landed upon its banks, and had a most
+uncomfortable lodging, it being a perfect swamp; and we had nothing to
+cover us, though it rained very hard. The Indians were little better off
+than we, as there was no wood here to make their wigwams; so that all they
+could do was to prop up the bark they carry in the bottom of their canoes
+with their oars, and shelter themselves as well as they could to leeward of
+it. They, knowing the difficulties that were to be encountered here, had
+provided themselves with some seal; but we had not the least morsel to eat,
+after the heavy fatigues of the day, excepting a sort of root we saw some
+of the Indians make use of, which was very disagreeable to the taste. We
+laboured all the next day against the stream, and fared as we had done the
+day before. The next day brought us to the carrying-place. Here was plenty
+of wood, but nothing to be got for sustenance.
+
+<p>The first thing the Indians did was to take every thing out of their
+canoes, and after hauling them ashore, they made their wigwams. We passed
+this night, as generally we had done, under a tree; but what we suffered at
+this time is not easily to be expressed. I had been three days at the oar
+without any kind of nourishment but the wretched root I mentioned before. I
+had no shirt, as mine was rotted off by bits, and we were devoured by
+vermin. All my clothes consisted of an old short grieko, which is something
+like a bearskin with a piece of a waistcoat under it, which once had been
+of red cloth, both which I had on when I was cast away; I had a ragged pair
+of trowsers, without either shoe or stocking.
+
+<p>The first thing the Indians did in the morning was to take their canoes to
+pieces; and here, for the information of the reader, it will be necessary
+to describe the structure of these boats, which are extremely well
+calculated for the use of these Indians, as they are frequently obliged to
+carry them over land a long way together, through thick woods, to avoid
+doubling capes and head-lands, in seas where no open boats could live. They
+generally consist of five pieces or planks, one for the bottom, and two for
+each side; and as these people have no iron tools, the labour must be great
+in hacking a single plank out of a large tree with shells and flints,
+though with the help of fire. Along the edges of the plank, they make small
+holes, at about an inch from one to the other, and sew them together with
+the supplejack or woodbine; but as these holes are not filled up by the
+substance of the woodbine, their boats would be immediately full of water
+if they had not a method of preventing it. They do this very effectually by
+the bark of a tree, which they first steep in water for some time, and then
+beat it between two stones till it answers the use of oakum, and then
+chinse each hole so well, that they do not admit of the least water coming
+through, and are easily taken asunder and put together again. When they
+have occasion to go over land, as at this time, each man or woman carries a
+plank, whereas it would be impossible for them to drag a heavy boat entire.
+
+<p>Every body had something to carry except Captain Cheap, and he was obliged
+to be assisted, or never would have got over this march; for a worse than
+this I believe never was made. He, with the others, set out some time
+before me. I waited for two Indians who belonged to the canoe I came in,
+and who remained to carry over the last of the things from the side we were
+on. I had a piece of wet heavy canvas which belonged to Captain Cheap, with
+a bit of stinking seal wrapped in it, (which had been given him that
+morning by some of the Indians) to carry upon my head, which was a
+sufficient weight for a strong man in health through such roads, and a
+grievous burthen to one in my condition.
+
+<p>Our way was through a thick wood, the bottom of which was a mere quagmire,
+most part of it up to our knees, and often to our middle, and every now and
+then we had a large tree to get over, for they often lay directly in our
+road. Besides this, we were continually treading upon the stumps of trees,
+which were not to be avoided, as they were covered with water; and having
+neither shoe nor stocking, my feet and legs were frequently torn and
+wounded. Before I had got half a mile the two Indians had left me, and
+making the best of my way lest they should be all gone before I got to the
+other side, I fell off a tree that crossed the road into a very deep swamp,
+where I very narrowly escaped drowning, by the weight of the burthen I had
+on my head. It was a long while before I could extricate myself from this
+difficulty, and when I did, my strength was quite exhausted. I sat down
+under a tree, and there gave way to melancholy reflections. However, as I
+was sensible these reflections would answer no end, they did not last long.
+I got up, and marking a great tree, I then deposited my load, not being
+able to carry it any farther, and set out to join my company.
+
+<p>It was some hours before I reached my companions. I found them sitting
+under a tree, and sat myself down by them without speaking a word; nor did
+they speak to me, as I remember, for some time, when Captain Cheap breaking
+silence, began to ask after the seal and piece of canvas. I told him the
+disaster I had met with, which he might have easily guessed by the
+condition the rags I had on were in, as well as having my feet and ancles
+cut to pieces; but, instead of compassion for my sufferings, I heard
+nothing but grumbling from every one for the irreparable loss they had
+sustained by me. I made no answer, but after resting myself a little, I got
+up and struck into the wood, and walked back at least five miles to the
+tree I had marked, and returned just time enough to deliver it before my
+companions embarked, with the Indians, upon a great lake, the opposite part
+of which seemed to wash the foot of the Cordilleras. I wanted to embark
+with them, but was given to understand I was to wait for some other Indians
+that were to follow them. I knew not where these Indians were to come from:
+I was left alone upon the beach, and night was at hand. They left me not
+even a morsel of the stinking seal that I had suffered so much about.
+
+<p>I kept my eyes upon the boats as long as I could distinguish them, and then
+returned into the wood, and sat myself down upon the root of a tree, having
+eat nothing the whole day but the stem of a plant which resembles that of
+an artichoke, which is of a juicy consistence and acid taste. Quite worn
+out with fatigue, I soon fell asleep; and awaking before day, I thought I
+heard some voices at no great distance from me. As the day appeared,
+looking further into the wood, I perceived a wigwam, and immediately made
+towards it; but the reception I met with was not at all agreeable, for
+stooping to get into it, I presently received two or three hearty kicks in
+my face, and at the same time heard the sound of voices, seemingly in
+anger, which made me retire, and wait at the foot of a tree, where I
+remained till an old woman peeped out and made signs to me to draw near. I
+obeyed very readily, and went into the wigwam. In it were three men and two
+women; one young man seemed to have great respect shewn to him by the rest,
+though he was the most miserable object I ever saw. He was a perfect
+skeleton, and covered with sores from head to foot. I was happy to sit a
+moment by their fire, as I was quite benumbed with cold. The old woman took
+out a piece of seal, holding one part of it between her feet, and the other
+end in her teeth, and then cut off some thin slices with a sharp shell, and
+distributed them about to the other Indians. She then put a bit on the
+fire, taking a piece of fat in her mouth, which she kept chewing, every now
+and then spirting some of it on the piece that was warming upon the fire;
+for they never do more with it than warm it through. When it was ready, she
+gave me a little bit, which I swallowed whole, being almost starved.
+
+<p>As these Indians were all strangers to me, I did not know which way they
+were going; and indeed it was now become quite indifferent to me which way
+I went, whether to the northward or southward, so that they would but take
+me with them and give me something to eat. However, to make them comprehend
+me, I pointed first to the southward, and after to the lake, and I soon
+understood they were going to the northward. They all went out together,
+excepting the sick Indian, and took up the planks of the canoes, which lay
+near the wigwam, and carried them upon the beach, and presently put it
+together, and getting every thing into it, they put me to the oar. We rowed
+across the lake to the mouth of a very rapid river, where we put ashore for
+that night, not daring to get any way down in the dark, as it required the
+greatest skill, even in the day, to avoid running foul of the stumps and
+roots of trees, of which this river was full. I passed a melancholy night,
+as they would not suffer me to come near the wigwam they had made; nor had
+they given me the least bit of any one thing to eat since we embarked.
+
+<p>In the morning we set off again. The weather proved extremely bad the whole
+day. We went down the river at an amazing rate, and just before night they
+put ashore upon a stony beach. They hauled the canoe up, and all
+disappeared in a moment, and I was left quite alone; it rained violently,
+and was very dark. I thought it was as well to lay down upon the beach,
+half side in water, as to get into a swamp under a dropping tree. In this
+dismal situation I fell asleep, and awaked three or four hours after in
+such agonies with the cramp, that I thought I must die upon the spot. I
+attempted several times to raise myself upon my legs, but could not. At
+last I made shift to get upon my knees, and looking towards the wood, I saw
+a great fire at some distance from me. I was a long time crawling to it,
+and when I reached it, I threw myself almost into it, in hopes of finding
+some relief from the pain I suffered. This intrusion gave great offence to
+the Indians, who immediately got up, kicking and beating me till they drove
+me to some distance from it; however, I contrived a little after to place
+myself so as to receive some warmth from it, by which I got rid of the
+cramp.
+
+<p>In the morning we left this place, and were soon after out of the river.
+Being now at sea again, the Indians intended putting ashore at the first
+convenient place to look for shell-fish, their stock of provisions having
+been quite exhausted for some time. At low water we landed upon a spot that
+seemed to promise well, and here we found plenty of limpets. Though at this
+time starving, I did not attempt to eat one, lest I should lose a moment in
+gathering them, not knowing how soon the Indians might be going again. I
+had almost filled my hat when I saw them returning to the canoe. I made
+what haste I could to her, for I believe they would have made no conscience
+of leaving me behind. I sat down to my oar again, placing my hat close to
+me, every now and then eating a limpet. The Indians were employed the same
+way, when one of them seeing me throw the shells overboard, spoke to the
+rest in a violent passion, and getting up, fell upon me, and seizing me by
+an old ragged handkerchief I had about my neck, almost throttled me; whilst
+another took me by the legs, and was going to throw me overboard if the old
+woman had not prevented, them.
+
+<p>I was all this time entirely ignorant by what means I had given offence,
+till I observed that the Indians, after eating the limpets, carefully put
+the shells in a heap at the bottom, of the canoe. I then concluded there
+was some superstition about throwing these shells into the sea, my
+ignorance of which had very nearly cost me my life. I was resolved to eat
+no more limpets till we landed, which we did some time after upon an
+island. I then took notice that the Indians brought all their shells
+ashore, and laid them above high-water mark. Here, as I was going to eat a
+large bunch of berries I had gathered from a tree, for they looked very
+tempting, one of the Indians snatched them out of my hand and threw them
+away, making me to understand that they were poisonous. Thus, in all
+probability, did these people now save my life, who, a few hours before,
+were going to take it from me for throwing away a shell.
+
+<p>In two days after I joined my companions again, but don't remember that
+there was the least joy shewn on either side at meeting. At this place was
+a very large canoe belonging to our guide, which would have required at
+least six men to the oar to have made any kind of expedition; instead of
+that, there was only Campbell and myself, besides the Indian, his companion
+or servant, to row, the cacique himself never touching an oar, but sitting,
+with his wife all the time much at his ease. Mr Hamilton continued in the
+same canoe he had been in all along, and which still was to keep us company
+some way further, though many of the others had left us. This was dreadful
+hard work to such poor starved wretches as we were, to be slaving at the
+oar all day long in such a heavy boat; and this inhuman fellow would never
+give us a scrap to eat, excepting when he took so much seal that he could
+not contrive to carry it all away with him, which happened very seldom.
+
+<p>After working like galley slaves all day, towards night, when we landed,
+instead of taking any rest, Mr Campbell and I were sometimes obliged to go
+miles along shore to get a few shell-fish; and just as we have made a
+little fire in order to dress them, he has commanded us into the boat
+again, and kept us rowing the whole night without ever landing. It is
+impossible for me to describe the miserable state we were reduced to: Our
+bodies were so emaciated, that we hardly appeared the figures of men.
+
+<p>It has often happened to me in the coldest night, both in hail and snow,
+where we had nothing but an open beach to lay down upon, in order to
+procure a little rest, that I have been obliged to pull off the few rags I
+had on, as it was impossible to get a moment's sleep with them on for the
+vermin that swarmed about them, though I used as often as I had time, to
+take my clothes off, and putting them upon a large stone, beat them with
+another, in hopes of killing hundreds at once, for it was endless work to
+pick them off. What we suffered from this was ten times worse even than
+hunger. But we were clean in comparison to Captain Cheap, for I could
+compare his body to nothing but an ant-hill, with thousands of those
+insects crawling over it; for he was now past attempting to rid himself in
+the least from this torment, as he had quite lost himself, not recollecting
+our names that were about him, or even his own. His beard was as long as a
+hermit's; that and his face being covered with train-oil and dirt, from
+having long accustomed himself to sleep upon a bag, by the way of pillow,
+in which he kept the pieces of stinking seal. This prudent method he took
+to prevent our getting at it whilst he slept. His legs were as big as
+millposts, though his body appeared to be nothing but skin and bone.
+
+<p>One day we fell in with about forty Indians, who came down to the beach we
+landed on, curiously painted. Our cacique seemed to understand but little
+of their language, and it sounded to us very different from what we had
+heard before. However, they made us comprehend that a ship had been upon
+the coast not far from where we then were, and that she had a red flag:
+This we understood some time after to have been the Anne pink, whose
+adventures are particularly related in Lord Anson's Voyage; and we passed
+through the very harbour she had lain in.
+
+<p>As there was but one small canoe that intended to accompany us any longer,
+and that in which Mr Hamilton had been to this time intended to proceed no
+further to the northward, our cacique proposed to him to come into our
+canoe, which he refused, as the insolence of this fellow was to him
+insupportable; he therefore rather chose to remain where he was, till
+chance should throw in his way some other means of getting forward; so here
+we left him, and it was some months before we saw him again.
+
+<h2><a name="ch7" id="ch7">CHAPTER VII.</a></h2>
+
+<p>We land on the Island of Chiloe.--To our great Joy we at length discover
+Something having the Appearance of a House.--Kindness of the Natives.--We
+are delivered to the Custody of a Spanish Guard.--Transactions with the
+Spanish Residents.--Arrival at Chaco.--Manners of the Inhabitants.
+
+<p>We now got on, by very slow degrees, to the northward; and as the
+difficulties and hardships we daily went through would only be a repetition
+of those already mentioned, I shall say no more, but that at last we
+reached an island about thirty leagues to the southward of Chiloe. Here we
+remained two days for a favourable opportunity to cross the bay, the very
+thoughts of which seemed to frighten our cacique out of his senses; and
+indeed there was great reason for his apprehensions, for there ran a most
+dreadful hollow sea, dangerous indeed for any open boat whatever, but a
+thousand times more for such a crazy vessel as we were in. He at length
+mustered up resolution enough to attempt it, first having crossed himself
+for an hour together, and made a kind of lug-sail out of the bits of
+blankets they wore about them, sewed together with split supple-jacks. We
+then put off, and a terrible passage we had. The bottom plank of the canoe
+was split, which opened upon every sea; and the water continually rushing
+over the gunnel, I may say that we were in a manner full the whole way
+over, though all hands were employed in bailing, without ceasing a moment.
+
+<p>As we drew near the shore, the cacique was eager to land, having been
+terrified to that degree with this run, that if it had not been for us,
+every soul must have perished; for he had very near got in amongst the
+breakers, where the sea drove with such violence upon the rocks, that not
+even an Indian could have escaped, especially as it was in the night. We
+kept off till we got into smooth water, and landed upon the island of
+Chiloe, though in a part of it that was not inhabited. Here we staid all
+the next day, in a very heavy snow, to recover ourselves a little after our
+fatigue; but the cold was so excessive, having neither shoe nor stocking,
+we thought we should have lost our feet; and Captain Cheap was so ill, that
+if he had had but a few leagues further to have gone without relief, he
+could not have held out. It pleased God now that our sufferings, in a great
+measure, were drawing to an end.
+
+<p>What things our cacique had brought with him from the wreck, he here buried
+under ground, in order to conceal them from the Spaniards, who would not
+have left him a rusty nail if they had known of it. Towards evening we set
+off again; and about nine the same night, to our great joy, we observed
+something that had the appearance of a house, It belonged to an
+acquaintance of our cacique; and as he was possessed of my fowling-piece,
+and we had preserved about one charge of powder, he made us load it for
+him, and desired we would shew him how to discharge it; upon which,
+standing up, and holding his head from it as far as possible, he fired, and
+fell back into the bottom of the canoe. The Indians belonging to the house,
+not in the least used to fire-arms, ran out and hid themselves in the
+woods. But after some time, one of them bolder than the rest, got upon a
+hill and hollowed to us, asking who and what we were. Our cacique now made
+himself known, and they presently came down to the boat, bringing with them
+some fish and plenty of potatoes. This was the most comfortable meal we had
+made for many long months; and as soon as this was over, we rowed about two
+miles farther to a little village, where we landed. Here our cacique
+presently awaked all the inhabitants by the noise he made, and obliged one
+of them to open his door to us, and immediately to make a large fire, for
+the weather was very severe, this being the month of June, the depth of
+winter in this part of the world. The Indians now flocked thick about us,
+and seemed to have great compassion for us, as our cacique related to them
+what part be knew of our history. They knew not what countrymen we were,
+nor could our guide inform them; for he had often asked us if we were
+French, Dutch, or English, the only nations he had ever heard of besides
+the Spaniards. We always answered we were from Grande Bretagne, which he
+could make nothing of; for we were afraid, if he knew us to be English, as
+he had heard that nation was at war with the Spaniards, he never would have
+conducted us to Chiloe.
+
+<p>These good-natured compassionate creatures seemed to vie with each other
+who should take the most care of us. They made a bed of sheep-skins close
+to the fire for Captain Cheap, and laid him upon it; and indeed, had it not
+been for the kind assistance he now met with, he could not have survived
+three days longer. Though it was now about midnight, they went out and
+killed a sheep, of which they made broth, and baked a large cake of barley-
+meal. Any body may imagine what a treat this was to wretches who had not
+tasted a bit of bread, or any wholesome diet, for such a length of time.
+After we could eat no longer, we went to sleep about the fire, which the
+Indians took care to keep up. In the morning, the women came from far and
+near, each bringing with her something. Almost every one had a pipkin in
+her hand, containing either fowls or mutton made into broth, potatoes,
+eggs, or other eatables. We fell to work as if we had eat nothing in the
+night, and employed ourselves so for the best part of the day.
+
+<p>In the evening, the men filled our house, bringing with them some jars of a
+liquor they called chica, made of barley-meal, and not very unlike our oat-
+ale in taste, which will intoxicate those who drink a sufficient quantity
+of it, for a little has no effect. As soon as the drink was out, a fresh
+supply of victuals was brought in; and in this manner we passed the whole
+time we remained with these hospitable Indians. They are a strong well-made
+people, extremely well-featured, both men and women, and vastly neat in
+their persons. The men's dress is called by them a puncho, which is a
+square piece of cloth, generally in stripes of different colours, with a
+slit in the middle of it, wide enough to let their heads through, so that
+it hangs on their shoulders, half of it falling before and the other behind
+them: Under this they wear a short kind of flannel shirt without sleeves or
+neck. They have wide-knee'd breeches, something like the Dutch seamen, and
+on their legs a sort of knit buskins without any feet to them, but never
+any shoes. Their hair is always combed very smooth, and tied very tight up
+in a great bunch close to the neck; some wear a very neat hat of their own
+making, and others go without. The women wear a shift like the men's
+shirts, without sleeves, and over it a square piece of cloth, which they
+fasten before with a large silver pin, and a petticoat of different
+stripes. They take as much care of their hair as the men; and both have
+always a kind of fillet bound very tight about the fore-head, and made fast
+behind. In short, these people are as cleanly as the several savage nations
+we had met with before were beastly.
+
+<p>Upon our first coming here, they had dispatched a messenger to the Spanish
+corregidore at Castro, a town a considerable distance from hence, to inform
+him of our arrival. At the end of three days, this man returned with an
+order to the chief caciques of these Indians we were amongst, to carry us
+directly to a certain place, where there would be a party of soldiers to
+receive us. These poor people now seemed to be under great concern for us,
+hearing by the messenger the preparations that were making to receive us;
+for they stand in vast dread of the Spanish soldiery. They were very
+desirous of knowing what countrymen we were. We told them we were English,
+and at that time at war with the Spaniards, upon which they appeared fonder
+of us than ever; and I verily believe, if they durst, would have concealed
+us amongst them, lest we should come to any harm. They are so far from
+being in the Spanish interest, that they detest the very name of a
+Spaniard. And, indeed, I am not surprised at it, for they are kept under
+such subjection, and such a laborious slavery, by mere dint of hard usage
+and punishments, that it appears to me the most absurd thing in the world
+that the Spaniards should rely upon these people for assistance upon any
+emergency.
+
+<p>We embarked in the evening, and it was night before we got to the place
+where we were to be delivered up to the Spanish guard. We were met by three
+or four officers and a number of soldiers, all with their spados drawn, who
+surrounded us as if they had the most formidable enemy to take charge of,
+instead of three poor helpless wretches, who, notwithstanding the good
+living we had met with amongst these kind Indians, could hardly support
+ourselves. They carried us to the top of a hill, and there put us under a
+shed, for it consisted of a thatched roof without any sides or walls, being
+quite open; and here we were to lie upon the cold ground. All sorts of
+people now came to stare at us as a sight; but the Indian women never came
+empty-handed; they always brought with them either fowls, mutton, or some
+kind of provision to us, so that we lived well enough. However, we found a
+very sensible difference between the treatment we had met with from the
+Indians and what we now experienced from the Spaniards. With the former, we
+were quite at liberty to do as we pleased; but here, if we only went ten
+yards to attempt at getting rid of some of the vermin that devoured us, we
+had two soldiers with drawn spados to attend us.
+
+<p>About the third day, a Jesuit from Castro came to see us, not from a motive
+of compassion, but from a report spread by our Indian cacique, that we had
+some things of great value about us. Having by chance seen Captain Cheap
+pull out a gold repeating watch, the first thing the good father did was to
+lug out of his pocket a bottle of brandy and give us a dram, in order to
+open our hearts. He then came roundly to the point, asking us if we had
+saved no watches or rings. Captain Cheap declared he had nothing, never
+suspecting that the Indian had seen his watch, having, as he thought,
+always taken great care to conceal it from him; but knowing that Campbell
+had a silver watch, which had been the property of our surgeon, he desired
+him to make it a present to the Jesuit, telling him at the same time, that
+as these people had great power and authority, it might be of service to us
+hereafter. This Campbell very unwillingly did, and received from the
+father, not long after, a pitiful present, not a quarter part of the value
+of the rim of the watch. We understood afterwards that this had come to the
+governor's ears, who was highly offended at it, as thinking that if any
+thing of that sort had been to be had, it was his due, and did not spare
+the Jesuits in the least upon the occasion.
+
+<p>Soon after this, the officer of the guard informed us there was an order
+come to carry us to Castro. In the evening, we were conducted to the water-
+side, and put into a large periago, and there were several more to attend
+us, full of soldiers. About eight o'clock at night we were off the town.
+Their boats all laid upon their oars, and there was a great deal of
+ceremony used in hailing and asking for the keys, as if it had been a
+regular fortification. After some time, we landed, but could see neither
+gates nor walk, nor any thing that had the appearance of a garrison. As we
+walked up a steep hill into the town, the way was lined with men, who had
+broomsticks upon their shoulders instead of muskets, and a lighted match in
+their hands. When we came to the corregidore's house, we found it full of
+people. He was an old man, very tall, with a long cloak on, a tye-wig
+without any curl, and a spado of immense length by his aide. He received us
+in great state and form; but as we had no interpreter, we understood little
+or nothing of the questions he asked us. He ordered a table to be spread
+for us with cold ham and fowls, which we three only sat down to, and in a
+short time dispatched more than ten men with common appetites would have
+done. It is amazing, that our eating to that excess we had done, from the
+time we first got among these kind Indians, had not killed us; we were
+never satisfied, and used to take all opportunities for some months after,
+of filling our pockets when we were not seen, that we might get up two or
+three times in the night to cram ourselves. Captain Cheap used to declare,
+that he was quite ashamed of himself.
+
+<p>After supper, the corregidore carried us to the Jesuits college, attended
+by the soldiers and all the rabble of the town. This was intended at
+present for our prison, till orders were received from the governor, who
+resided at Chaco, above thirty leagues from this place. When we got to the
+college, the corregidore desired the father provincial, as they stiled him,
+or head of the Jesuits here, to find out what religion we were of, or
+whether we had any or not. He then retired, the gates were shut, and we
+were conducted to a cell. We found in it something like beds spread on the
+floor, and an old ragged shirt apiece, but clean, which was of infinite
+service to us; nor did eating at first give me half the satisfaction this
+treasure of an old shirt did. Though this college was large, there were but
+four Jesuits in it, nor were there any more of that order upon the island.
+
+<p>In the morning, Captain Cheap was sent for by the father provincial: Their
+conversation was carried on in Latin, perhaps not the best on either side;
+however, they made shift to understand one another. When he returned, he
+told us the good fathers were still harping upon what things of value we
+might have saved and concealed about us; and that if we had any thing of
+that sort, we could not do better than let them have it. Religion seemed to
+be quite out of the question at present; but a day or two after, the
+corregidore being informed that we were heretics, he desired these Jesuits
+would convert us; but one of them told him it was a mere joke to attempt
+it, as we could have no inducement upon that island to change our religion;
+but that when we got to Chili, in such a delightful country as that was,
+where there was nothing but diversions and amusements, we should be
+converted fast enough. We kept close to our cell till the bell rang for
+dinner, when we were conducted into a hall, where there was one table for
+the fathers, and another for us. After a very long Latin prayer, we sat
+down and eat what was put before us, without a single word passing at
+either table. As soon as we had finished, there was another long prayer,
+which, however, did not appear so tedious as the first, and then we retired
+to our cell again. In this manner we passed eight days without ever
+stirring out, all which time one might have imagined one's self out of the
+world; for excepting the bell for dinner, a silence reigned throughout the
+whole, as if the place had been uninhabited.
+
+<p>A little before dark, on the eighth evening, we heard a violent knocking at
+the gate, which was no sooner opened than there entered a young officer
+booted and spurred, who acquainted the fathers that he was sent by the
+governor to conduct us to Chaco. This young man was the governor's son, by
+which means he obtained a command next in authority, upon this island, to
+his father. He ought to have been kept at school, for he was a vain empty
+coxcomb, much disliked by the people upon the island. After taking leave of
+the Jesuits, who, I imagine, were not sorry to be rid of us, after finding
+their expectations baulked, we set out, having about thirty soldiers on
+horseback to attend us. We rode about eight miles that night, when we came
+to an Estancia, or farm-house, belonging to an old lady, who had two
+handsome daughters. Here we were very well entertained, and the good old
+lady seemed to have great compassion on us. She asked the governor's son if
+he thought his father would have any objection to my passing a month with
+her at her farm. As she was a person of rank in this island, he said he
+would acquaint his father with her request, and made no doubt but he would
+grant it. I observed our soldiers, when they came into the house, had none
+of them any shoes on, but wore buskins, like the Indians, without any feet
+to them. They all had monstrous great spurs, some of silver and others of
+copper, which made a rattling when they walked, like chains. They were all
+stout strong-looking men, as the Spaniards, natives of the island, in
+general are. After a good supper, we had sheep-skins laid near the fire for
+us to sleep on.
+
+<p>Early in the morning we mounted again, and after riding some miles across
+the country, we came to the water-side, where we found several periagoes
+waiting for us, with some officers in them. Most of the soldiers dismounted
+and embarked with us, few only being sent round with the horses. It was
+three days before we arrived at Chaco, as the tides between this island and
+the main are so rapid that no boat can stem them. The same precaution was
+taken here as at Castro; we passed through a whole lane of soldiers, armed
+as I mentioned those to have been before, excepting a few who really had
+match-locks, the only fire-arms they have here. The soldiers, upon our
+journey, had given a pompous account of el Palacio del Rey, or the king's
+palace, as they stiled the governor's house, and therefore we expected to
+see something very magnificent; but it was nothing better than a large
+thatched barn, partitioned off into several rooms. The governor was sitting
+at a large table covered with a piece of red serge, having all the
+principal officers about him. After some time, he made us sit down,
+attempting to converse with us by his linguist, who was a stupid old
+fellow, that could neither talk English nor Spanish, but said he was born
+in England, had resided above forty years in that country, and having
+formerly been a buccaneer, was taken by the Spaniards near Panama. The
+governor kept us to supper, and then we were conducted across the court to
+our apartment, which was a place that had served to keep the fire-wood for
+the governor's kitchen; however, as it was dry over head, we thought
+ourselves extremely well lodged. There was a soldier placed at the door
+with a drawn spado in his hand, to prevent our stirring out, which was
+quite unnecessary, as we knew not where to go if we had been at liberty.
+One of these soldiers took a fancy to my ragged grieko, which had still
+some thousands about it, and in exchange gave me an old poncho, the sort of
+garment with a hole in the middle to put one's head through, as above
+related to be worn by the Indians; and for the little bit of my waistcoat
+that remained, he gave me a pair of breeches. I now should have thought
+myself very handsomely equipped, if I had had but another shirt.
+
+<p>The next day, about noon, the governor sent for us, and we dined at his
+table, after which we returned to our lodging, where we were never alone,
+for every body was curious to see us. We passed about a week in this
+manner, when the centinel was taken off, and we were allowed to look about
+us a little, though not to go out of the palace, as they were pleased to
+call it. We dined every day with the governor, but were not very fond of
+his fast days, which succeeded each other too quickly. I contrived to make
+friends with his steward and cook, by which means I always carried my
+pockets full to my apartment, where I passed my time very agreeably. Soon
+after, we had leave to walk about the town, or go wherever we pleased.
+Every house was open to us; and though it was but an hour after we had
+dined, they always spread a table, thinking we never could eat enough after
+what we had suffered; and we were much of the same opinion. They are, in
+general, a charitable, good sort of people, but very ignorant, and governed
+by their priests, who make them believe just what they please.
+
+<p>The Indian language is chiefly spoken here, even by the Spaniards one
+amongst another; and they say they think it a finer language than their
+own. The women have fine complexions, and many of them are very handsome;
+they have good voices, and can strum a little upon the guitar; but they
+have an ugly custom of smoking tobacco, which is a very scarce commodity
+here, and therefore is looked upon as a great treat when they meet at one
+another's houses. The lady of the house comes in with a large wooden pipe
+crammed with tobacco, and after taking two or three hearty whiffs, she
+holds her head under her cloak lest any of the smoke should escape, and
+then swallows it; some time after, you see it coming out of her nose and
+ears. She then hands the pipe to the next lady, who does the same, till it
+has gone through the whole company. Their houses are but very mean, as will
+be easily imagined by what I have said of the governor's. They make their
+fire in the middle of their rooms, but have no chimneys; there is a small
+hole at each end of the roof to let the smoke out.
+
+<p>It is only the better sort of people that eat bread made of wheat, as they
+grow but very little here, and they have no mills to grind it; but then
+they have great plenty of the finest potatoes in the world: These are
+always roasted in the ashes, then scraped, and served up at meals instead
+of bread. They breed abundance of swine, as they supply both Chili and Peru
+with hams. They are in no want of sheep, but are not overstocked with cows,
+owing, in a great measure, to their own indolence in not clearing away the
+woods, which if they would be at the pains to do, they might have
+sufficient pasture. Their trade consists in hams, hogs-lard, which is used
+throughout all South America instead of butter; cedar-plank, which the
+Indians are continually employed in cutting quite to the foot of the
+Cordilleras, little carved boxes, which the Spanish ladies use to put their
+work in, carpets, quilts, and punchos neatly embroidered all round; for
+these, both in Chili and Peru, are used by the people of the first fashion,
+as well as the inferior sort, by way of riding-dress, and are esteemed to
+be much more convenient for a horseman than any kind of coat whatever.
+
+<p>They have what they call an annual ship from Lima, as they never expect
+more than one in the year; though sometimes it happens that two have come,
+and at other times they have been two or three years without any. When this
+happens, they are greatly distressed, as this ship brings them baize,
+cloth, linens, hats, ribbons, tobacco, sugar, brandy, and wine, but this
+latter article is chiefly for the use of the churches: Matte, an herb from
+Paraguay, used over all South America instead of tea, is also a necessary
+article. This ship's cargo is chiefly consigned to the Jesuits, who have
+more Indians employed for them than all the rest of the inhabitants
+together, and of course engross almost the whole trade. There is no money
+current in this island. If any person wants a few yards of linen, a little
+sugar, tobacco, or any other thing brought from Peru, he gives so many
+cedar-planks, hams, or punchos, in exchange. Some time after we had been
+here, a snow arrived in the harbour from Lima, which occasioned great joy
+amongst the inhabitants, as they had no ship the year before, from the
+alarm Lord Anson had given upon the coast.
+
+<p>This was not the annual vessel, but one of those that I mentioned before
+which come unexpectedly. The captain of her was an old man, well known upon
+the island, who had traded here once in two or three years for more than
+thirty years past. He had a remarkably large head, and therefore was
+commonly known by a nick-name they had given him of Cabuco de Toro, or
+Bull's-head. He had not been here a week, before he came to the governor,
+and told him, with a most melancholy countenance, that he had not slept a
+wink since he came into the harbour, as the governor was pleased to allow
+three English prisoners liberty to walk about instead of confining them,
+and that he expected every moment they would board his vessel and carry her
+away: This he said when he had above thirty hands aboard. The governor
+assured him he would be answerable for us, and that he might sleep in
+quiet; though at the same time he could not help laughing at the man, as
+all the people in the town did. These assurances did not satisfy the
+captain; he used the utmost dispatch in disposing of his cargo, and put to
+sea again, not thinking himself safe till he had lost sight of the island.
+It was about three months after this that Mr Hamilton was brought in by a
+party that the governor had sent to the southward on purpose to fetch him.
+He was in a wretched condition upon his first arrival, but soon recovered
+with the good living he found here.
+
+<p>It is usual for the governor to make a tour every year through the several
+districts belonging to his government: On this occasion he took us with
+him. The first place he visited was Carelmapo, on the main, and from thence
+to Castro. At these places he holds a kind of court, all the chief caciques
+meeting him, and informing him of what has passed since his last visit, and
+receiving fresh orders for the year to come. At Castro we had the same
+liberty we enjoyed at Chaco, and visited every body. It seemed they had
+forgot all the ceremony used upon our first landing here, which was with an
+intent to make us believe it was strongly fortified; for now they let us
+see plainly that they had neither fort nor gun. At Chaco they had a little
+earthen fort, with a small ditch palisadoed round it, and a few old
+honeycombed guns without carriages, and which do not defend the harbour in
+the least. Whilst we were at Castro, the old lady (at whose house we lay
+the first night upon leaving the Jesuits college) sent to the governor, and
+begged I might be allowed to come to her for a few weeks; this was granted,
+and accordingly I went and passed about three weeks with her very happily,
+as she seemed to be as fond of me as if I had been her own son. She was
+very unwilling to part with me again, but as the governor was soon to
+return to Chaca, he sent for me, and I left my benefactress with regret.
+
+<h2><a name="ch8" id="ch8">CHAPTER VIII.</a></h2>
+
+<p>Adventure with the Niece of an old Priest at Castro.--Superstition of the
+People.--The Lima Ship arrives, in which we depart for Valparaiso, January
+1743.--Arrival at and Treatment there.--Journey to Chili.--Arrival at St
+Jago.--Generous Conduct of a Scotch Physician.--Description of the City and
+of the People.
+
+<p>Amongst the houses we visited at Castro, there was one belonging to an old
+priest, who was esteemed one of the richest persons upon the island. He had
+a niece, of whom he was extremely fond, and who was to inherit all he
+possessed. He had taken a great deal of pains with her education, and she
+was reckoned one of the most accomplished young ladies of Chiloe. Her
+person was good, though she could not be called a regular beauty. This
+young lady did me the honour to take more notice of me than I deserved, and
+proposed to her uncle to convert me, and afterwards begged his consent to
+marry me. As the old man doated upon her, he readily agreed to it; and
+accordingly, on the next visit I made him, acquainted me with the young
+lady's proposal, and his approbation of it, taking me at the same time into
+a room where there were several chests and boxes, which he unlocked, first
+shewing me what a number of fine clothes his niece had, and then his own
+wardrobe, which he said should be mine at his death. Amongst other things,
+he produced a piece of linen, which he said should immediately be made up
+into shirts for me. I own this last article was a great temptation to me;
+however, I had the resolution to withstand it, and made the best excuses I
+could for not accepting of the honour they intended me; for by this time I
+could speak Spanish well enough to make myself understood.
+
+<p>Amongst other Indians who had come to meet the governor here, there were
+some caciques of those Indians who had treated us so kindly at our first
+landing upon Chiloe. One of these, a young man, had been guilty of some
+offence, and was put in irons, and threatened to be more severely punished.
+We could not learn his crime, or whether the governor did not do it in a
+great measure to shew us his power over these Indian chiefs; however, we
+were under great concern for this young man, who had been extremely kind to
+us, and begged Captain Cheap to intercede with the governor for him. This
+he did, and the cacique was released; the governor acquainted him at the
+same time, with great warmth, that it was to us only he owed it, or
+otherwise he would have made a severe example of him. The young man seemed
+to have been in no dread of farther punishment, as I believe he felt all a
+man could do from the indignity of being put in irons in the public square,
+before all his brother caciques and many hundreds of other Indians. I
+thought this was not a very politic step of the governor, as the cacique
+came after to Captain Cheap to thank him for his goodness, and in all
+probability would remember the English for some time after; and not only
+he, but all the other caciques who had been witnesses of it, and who seemed
+to feel, if possible, even more than the young man himself did.
+
+<p>We now returned to Chaco, and the governor told us, when the annual ship
+came, which they expected in December, we should be sent in her to Chili.
+We felt several earthquakes while we were here. One day, as I happened to
+be upon a visit at a house where I was very well acquainted, an Indian came
+in, who lived at many leagues distance from this town, and who had made
+this journey in order to purchase some little trifles he wanted; amongst
+other things, he had bought some prints of saints. Very proud of these, he
+produced them, and put them into the hands of the women, who very devoutly
+first crossed themselves with them, and afterwards kissed them; then gave
+them to me, saying at the same time, they supposed such a heretic as I was
+would refuse to kiss them. They were right in their conjectures; I returned
+them to the Indian without going through that ceremony. At that very
+instant there happened a violent shock of an earthquake, which they imputed
+entirely to the anger of the saints; and all quitted the house as fast as
+they could, lest it should fall upon their heads. For my part, I made the
+best of my way home for fear of being knocked on the head when out of the
+house by the rabble, who looked on me as the cause of all this mischief,
+and did not return to that house again till I thought this affair was
+forgotten.
+
+<p>Here is a very good harbour; but the entrance is very dangerous for those
+who are unacquainted with it, as the tides are so extremely rapid, and
+there are sunken rocks in the midchannel. The island is above seventy
+leagues round, and the body of it lies in about 40 deg. 20 min. south, and
+is the most southern settlement the Spaniards have in these seas. Their
+summer is of no long duration, and most of the year round they have hard
+gales of wind and much rain. Opposite the island, upon the Cordilleras,
+there is a volcano, which at times burns with great fury, and is subject to
+violent eruptions. One of these alarmed the whole island whilst we were
+there; it sounded in the night like great guns. In the morning, the
+governor mounted his horse, and rode backwards and forwards from his house
+to the earthen fort, saying it was the English coming in, but that he would
+give them a warm reception; meaning, I suppose, that he would have left
+them a good fire in his house, for I am certain he would soon have been in
+the woods if he had seen any thing like an English ship coming in.
+
+<p>Women of the first fashion here seldom wear shoes or stockings in the
+house, but only keep them to wear upon particular occasions. I have often
+seen them coming to the church, which stood opposite to the governor's
+house, bare-legged, walking through mud and water, and at the church-door
+put on their shoes and stockings, and pull them off again when they came
+out. Though they are in general handsome, and have good complexions, yet
+many of them paint in so ridiculous a manner, that it is impossible to help
+laughing in their faces when you see them.
+
+<p>The governor we found here was a native of Chili. The government, which is
+appointed by that presidency, is for three years, which appears to be a
+long banishment to them, as their appointments are but small, though they
+make the most of it. The towns of Castro and Chaco consist only of
+scattered houses, without a regular street, though both have their places
+or squares, as almost all Spanish towns have. Chaco is very thinly
+inhabited, excepting at the time the Lima ship arrives; then they flock
+thither from all parts of the island to purchase what little matters they
+want, and as soon as that is done, retire to their estancias or farms.
+
+<p>It was about the middle of December this ship came in, and the second of
+January, 1742-3, we embarked on board of her. She was bound to Valparaiso.
+We got out to sea with some difficulty, having been driven by the strength
+of the tide very near those sunken rocks mentioned before. We found a great
+sea without; and as the ship was as deep as any laden collier, her decks
+were continually well washed. She was a fine vessel, of about two hundred
+and fifty-tons. The timber the ships of this country are built of is
+excellent, as they last a prodigious time; for they assured us that the
+vessel we were then in had been built above forty years. The captain was a
+Spaniard, and knew not the least of sea affairs; the second captain, or
+master, the boatswain, and his mate, were all three Frenchmen, and very
+good seamen; the pilot was a Mulatto, and all the rest of the crew were
+Indians and negroes. The latter were all slaves and stout fellows, but
+never suffered to go aloft, lest they should fall overboard, and the owners
+lose so much money by it. The Indians were active, brisk men, and very good
+seamen for that climate. We had on board the head of the Jesuits as
+passenger. He and Captain Cheap were admitted into the great cabin, and
+messed with the captain and his chaplain. As for us, we were obliged to
+rough it the whole passage, that is, when we were tired we lay down upon
+the quarter-deck in the open air, and slept as well as we could; but that
+was nothing to us, who had been used to fare so much worse. We lived well,
+eating with the master and boatswain, who always had their meals upon the
+quarter-deck, and drank brandy at them as we do small-beer, and all the
+rest of the day were smoking segars.
+
+<p>The fifth day we made the land four or five leagues to the southward of
+Valparaiso, and soon after falling calm, a great western swell hurried us
+in very fast towards the shore. We dropped the lead several times, but had
+such deep water we could not anchor. They were all much alarmed when the
+Jesuit came out of the cabin for the first time, having been sea-sick the
+whole passage. As soon as he was informed of the danger, he went back into
+the cabin and brought out the image of some saint, which he desired might
+be hung up in the mizen-shrouds; which being done, he kept threatening it,
+that if we had not a breeze of wind soon, he would certainly throw it
+overboard. Soon after, we had a little wind from off the land, when the
+Jesuit carried the image back with an air of great triumph, saying he was
+certain that we should not be without wind long, though he had given
+himself over for lost some time before it came. Next morning we anchored in
+the port of Valparaiso. In that part which is opposite to the fort, ships
+lay so near the land, that they have generally three anchors ashore, as
+there is eight or ten fathom close to it; and the flaws come off the hills
+with such violence, that if it was not for this method of securing them
+they would be blown out. This is only in summer-time, for in the winter
+months no ships ever attempt to come in here; the northerly winds then
+prevail, and drive in such a sea that they must soon be ashore.
+
+<p>The Spanish captain waited upon the governor of the fort, and informed him
+that he had four English prisoners on board. We were ordered ashore in the
+afternoon, and were received as we got upon the beach by a file of soldiers
+with their bayonets fixed, who surrounded us, and then marched up to the
+fort, attended by a numerous mob. We were carried before the governor,
+whose house was full of officers. He was blind, asked a few questions, and
+then spoke of nothing but the strength of the garrison he commanded, and
+desired to know if we had observed that all the lower battery was brass
+guns. We were immediately after, by his order, put into the condemned hole.
+There was nothing but four bare walls, excepting a heap of lime that filled
+one third of it, and made the place swarm with fleas in such a manner that
+we were presently covered with them. Some of Admiral Pizarro's soldiers
+were here in garrison that had been landed from his ships at Buenos Ayres,
+as he could not get round Cape Horn. A centinel's box was placed at our
+door, and we had always a soldier with his bayonet fixed to prevent our
+stirring out. The curiosity of the people was such, that our prison was
+continually full from morning till night, by which the soldiers made a
+pretty penny, as they took money from every person for the sight.
+
+<p>In a few days, Captain Cheap and Mr Hamilton were ordered up to St Jago, as
+they were known to be officers by having saved their commissions; but Mr
+Campbell and I were to continue in prison. Captain Cheap expressed great
+concern when he left us; he told me it was what he had all along dreaded,
+that they would separate us when we got into this country; but he assured
+me, if he was permitted to speak to the president, that he would never
+leave soliciting him till he obtained a grant for me to be sent up to him.
+No sooner were they gone than we fared very badly. A common soldier, who
+was ordered to provide for us by the governor, brought us each, once a day,
+a few potatoes mixed with hot water. The other soldiers of the garrison, as
+well as the people who flocked to see us, took notice of it, and told the
+soldier it was cruel to treat us in that manner. His answer was, "The
+governor allows me but half a real a day for each of these men; what can I
+do? It is he that is to blame; I am shocked every time I bring them this
+scanty pittance, though even that could not be provided for the money he
+gives them."
+
+<p>We from this time lived much better, and the soldier brought us even wine
+and fruit. We took it for granted that our case had been represented to the
+governor, and that he had increased our pay. As to the first, we were right
+in our conjectures; it had been mentioned to him, that it was impossible we
+could subsist on what he allowed; and his answer to it was, that we might
+starve, for we should have no more from him, and that he believed he should
+never be repaid even that. This charitable speech of the governor was made
+known everywhere, and now almost every one who came to see us gave us
+something; even the mule-drivers would take out their tobacco-pouch, in
+which they kept their money, and give us half a real. All this we would
+have given to our soldier, but he never would receive a farthing from us,
+telling us we might still want it; and the whole time we were there, which
+was some weeks, he laid aside half his daily pay to supply us, though he
+had a wife and six children, and never could have the least hope or
+expectation of any recompence. However, two years after this I had the
+singular pleasure of making him some return, when my circumstances were
+much better than his.
+
+<p>One night, when we were locked up, there happened a dreadful shock of an
+earthquake. We expected every moment the roof and walls of our prison to
+fall in upon us and crush us to pieces; and what added to the horror of it
+was, the noise of chains and imprecations in the next prison which joined
+to ours, where there were near seventy felons heavily loaded with irons,
+who are kept here to work upon the fortifications, as in other countries
+they are condemned to the gallies. A few days after this, we were told an
+order was come from the president to the governor to send us up to St Jago,
+which is ninety miles from Valparaiso, and is the capital of Chili. There
+were at this time several ships in the port from Lima delivering their
+cargoes, so that almost every day there were large droves of mules going up
+to St Jago with the goods. The governor sent for one of the master
+carriers, and ordered him to take us up with him. The man asked him how he
+was to be paid our expences, as he should be five days upon the road. The
+governor told him he might get that as he could, for he would not advance
+him a single farthing.
+
+<p>After taking leave of our friendly soldier, who even now brought us some
+little matters to carry with us, we set out, and travelled about fourteen
+miles the first day, and lay at night in the open field, which is always
+the custom of these people, stopping where there is plenty of pasture and
+good water for the mules. The next morning we passed over a high mountain
+called Zapata; and then crossing a large plain, we passed another mountain,
+very difficult for the mules, who each carried two heavy bales: There were
+above an hundred in this drove. The mules of Chili are the finest in the
+world; and though they are continually upon the road, and have nothing but
+what they pick up at night, they are as fat and sleek as high-fed horses in
+England. The fourth night we lay upon a plain in sight of St Jago, and not
+above four leagues from it.
+
+<p>The next day, as we moved towards the city, our master-carrier, who was
+naturally well-disposed, and had been very kind to us all the way upon the
+road, advised me, very seriously, not to think of remaining in St Jago,
+where he said there was nothing but extravagance, vice, and folly, but to
+proceed on with them as mule-driver, which, he said, I should soon be very
+expert at; and that they led an innocent and happy life, far preferable to
+any enjoyment such a great city as that before us could afford. I thanked
+him, and told him I was very much obliged to him, but that I would try the
+city first, and if I did not like it, I would accept of the offer he was so
+good as to make me. The thing that gave him this high opinion of me was,
+that as he had been so civil to us, I was very officious in assisting to
+drive in those mules that strayed from the rest upon those large plains we
+passed over; and this I thought was the least I could do towards making
+some returns for the obligations we were under to him.
+
+<p>When we got into St Jago, the carrier delivered us to the captain of the
+guard at the palace gate, and he soon after introduced us to the president,
+Don Joseph Manso, who received us very civilly, and then sent us to the
+house where Captain Cheap and Mr Hamilton were. We found them extremely
+well lodged at the house of a Scotch physician, whose name was Don Patricio
+Gedd. This gentleman had been a long time in this city, and was greatly
+esteemed by the Spaniards, as well for his abilities in his profession as
+his humane disposition. He no sooner heard that there were four English
+prisoners arrived in that country, than he waited upon the president, and
+begged they might be lodged at his house. This was granted, and had we been
+his own brothers we could not have met with a more friendly reception; and
+during two years that we were with him, his constant study was to make
+every thing as agreeable to us as possible. We were greatly distressed to
+think of the expence he was at upon our account, but it was in vain for us
+to argue with him about it. In short, to sum up his character in a few
+words, there never was a man of more extensive humanity.
+
+<p>Two or three days after our arrival, the president sent Mr Campbell and me
+an invitation to dine with him, where we were to meet Admiral Pizarro and
+all his officers. This was a cruel stroke upon us, as we had not any
+clothes fit to appear in, and dared not refuse the invitation. The next
+day, a Spanish officer belonging to Admiral Pizarro's squadron, whose name
+was Don Manuel de Guiror, came and made us an offer of two thousand
+dollars. This generous Spaniard made this offer without any view of ever
+being repaid, but purely out of a compassionate motive of relieving us in
+our present distress. We returned him all the acknowledgments his uncommon
+generous behaviour merited, and accepted of six hundred dollars only, upon
+his receiving our draught for that sum upon the English consul at Lisbon.
+We now got ourselves decently clothed after the Spanish fashion, and as we
+were upon our parole, we went out where we pleased to divert ourselves.
+
+<p>This city is situated in about 33 degrees and 30 minutes south latitude, at
+the west foot of the immense chain of mountains called the Cordilleras. It
+stands on a most beautiful plain of above thirty leagues extent. It was
+founded by Don Pedro de Baldivia, the conqueror of Chili. The plan of it
+was marked out by him, in squares, like Lima; and almost every house
+belonging to people of any fashion has a large court before it, with great
+gates, and a garden behind. There is a little rivulet, neatly faced with
+stone, runs through every street, by which they can cool the streets or
+water their gardens when they please. The whole town is extremely well
+paved. Their gardens are full of noble orange-trees and floripondies, with
+all sort of flowers, which perfume the houses and even the whole city. Much
+about the middle of it is the great square, called the Placa Real, or the
+Royal Square; there are eight avenues leading into it. The west side
+contains the cathedral and the bishop's palace; the north side is the
+president's palace, the royal court, the council house, and the prison; the
+south side is a row of piazzas, the whole length of which are shops, and
+over it a gallery to see the bull-fights; the east side has some large
+houses belonging to people of distinction, and in the middle is a large
+fountain with a brass bason. The houses have, in general, only a ground
+floor, upon account of the frequent earthquakes; but they make a handsome
+appearance. The churches are rich in gilding as well as in plate: That of
+the Jesuits is reckoned an exceeding good piece of architecture, but it is
+much too high built for a country so subject to earthquakes, and where it
+has frequently happened that thousands of people have been swallowed up at
+once.
+
+<p>There is a hill, or rather high rock, at the east end of the city, called
+St Lucia, from the top of which you have a view of all the city and the
+country about for many leagues, affording a very delightful landscape.
+Their estancias, or country houses, are very pleasant, having generally a
+fine grove of olive trees, with large vineyards to them. The Chili wine, in
+my opinion, is full as good as Madeira, and made in such quantities that it
+is sold extremely cheap. The soil of this country is so fertile, that the
+husbandmen have very little trouble, for they do but in a manner scratch up
+the ground, and without any kind of manure it yields an hundred fold.
+Without doubt the wheat of Chili is the finest in the world, and the fruits
+are all excellent in their kinds. Beef and mutton are so cheap, that you
+may have a good cow for three dollars, and a fat sheep for two shillings.
+Their horses are extraordinary good; and though some of them go at a great
+price, you may have a very good one for four dollars, or about eighteen
+shillings of our money.
+
+<p>It must be a very poor Indian who has not his four or five horses; and
+there are no better horsemen in the world than the Chileans, and that is
+not surprising, for they never chuse to go a hundred yards on foot. They
+have always their laco fixed to their saddle: the laco is a long thong of
+leather, at the end of which they make a sliding noose. It is of more
+general use to them than any weapon whatever, for with this they are sure
+of catching either horse or wild bull, upon full gallop, by any foot they
+please. Their horses are all trained to this, and the moment they find the
+thong straitened, as the other end is always made fast to the saddle, the
+horse immediately turns short, and throwing the beast thus caught, the
+huntsman wounds or secures him in what manner he thinks proper. These
+people are so dexterous, that they will take from the ground a glove or
+handkerchief while their horse is upon full stretch; and I have seen them
+jump upon the back of the wildest bull, and all the efforts of the beast
+could not throw them. This country produces all sorts of metals; it is
+famous for gold, silver, iron, tin, lead, and quicksilver; but some of
+these they do not understand working, especially quicksilver. With copper
+they supply all Peru, and send likewise a great deal to Europe.
+
+<p>The climate of Chili is, I believe, the finest in the world. What they call
+their winter does not last three months, and even that is very moderate, as
+may be imagined by their manner of building, for they have no chimneys in
+their houses. All the rest of the year is delightful, for though, from ten
+or eleven in the morning till five in the afternoon, it is very hot, yet
+the evenings and mornings are very cool and pleasant; and in the hottest
+time of the year, it is from six in the evening till two or three in the
+morning that the people of this country meet to divert themselves with
+music and other entertainments, at which there is plenty of cooling
+liquors, as they are well supplied with ice from the neighbouring
+Cordilleras. At these assemblies many intrigues are carried on: for they
+think of nothing else throughout the year.
+
+<p>Their fandangoes are very agreeable; the women dance inimitably well, and
+very gracefully. They are all born with an ear for music, and most of them
+have delightful voices, and all play upon the guitar and harp. The latter,
+at first, appears a very awkward instrument for a woman, yet that prejudice
+is soon got over, and they far excel any other nation upon it. They are
+extremely complaisant and polite; and when asked either to play, dance, or
+sing, they do it without a moment's hesitation, and that with an exceeding
+good grace. They have many figure-dances, but what they take most delight
+in, are more like our hornpipes than any thing else I can compare them to;
+and upon these occasions they shew surprising activity. The women are
+remarkably handsome, and very extravagant in their dress. Their hair, which
+is as thick as is possible to be conceived, they wear of a vast length,
+without any other ornament upon the head than a few flowers; they plait it
+behind in four plaits, and twist them round a bodkin, at each end of which
+is a diamond rose. Their shifts are all over lace, as is a little tight
+waistcoat they wear over them. Their petticoats are open before, and lap
+over, and have commonly three rows of very rich lace of gold or silver. In
+winter, they have an upper waistcoat of cloth of gold or silver, and in
+summer, of the finest linen, covered all over with the finest Flanders
+lace. The sleeves of these are immensely wide. Over all this, when the air
+is cool, they have a mantle, which is only of bays, of the finest colours,
+round which there is abundance of lace. When they go abroad, they wear a
+veil, which is so contrived that one eye is only seen. Their feet are very
+small, and they value themselves as much upon it as the Chinese do. Their
+shoes are pinked and cut; their stockings silk, with gold and silver
+cloaks; and they love to have the end of an embroidered garter hang a
+little below the petticoat. Their breasts and shoulders are very naked;
+and, indeed, you may easily discern their whole shape by their manner of
+dress. They have fine sparkling eyes, ready wit, a great deal of good
+nature, and a strong disposition to gallantry.
+
+<p>By the description of one house you have an idea of all the rest. You first
+come into a large court, on one side of which is the stable: you then enter
+a hall; on one side of that is a large room, about twenty feet wide, and
+near forty feet long: that side next the window is the estrado, which runs
+the whole length of the room. The estrado is a platform, raised about five
+or six inches above the fioor, and is covered with carpets and velvet
+cushions for the women to sit on, which they do, after the Moorish fashion,
+cross-legged. The chairs for the men are covered with printed leather. At
+the end of the estrado, there is an alcove, where the bed stands; and there
+is always a vast deal of the sheets hanging out, with a profusion of lace
+to them, and the same on the pillows. They have a false door to the alcove,
+which sometimes is very convenient. Besides, there are generally two other
+rooms, one within another, and the kitchen and other offices are detached
+from the house, either at one side, or at the end of the garden.
+
+<p>The ladies are fond of having their Mulatto female slaves dressed almost as
+well as themselves in every respect, excepting jewels, in which they
+indulge themselves to the utmost extravagance. Paraguay tea, which they
+call matte, as I mentioned before, is always drunk twice a day: this is
+brought upon a large silver salver, with four legs raised upon it, to
+receive a little cup made out of a small calabash or gourd, and tipped with
+silver. They put the herb first into this, and add what sugar they please,
+and a little orange juice; and then pour hot water on them, and drink it
+immediately through the conveyance of a long silver tube, at the end of
+which there is a round strainer, to prevent the herb getting through. And
+here it is reckoned a piece of politeness for the lady to suck the tube two
+or three times first, and then give it the stranger to drink without wiping
+it. They eat every thing so highly seasoned with red pepper, that those who
+are not used to it, upon the first mouthful would imagine their throats on
+fire for an hour afterwards; and it is a common custom here, though you
+have the greatest plenty at your own table, to have two or three Mulatto
+girls come in at the time you dine, bringing, in a little silver plate,
+some of these high-seasoned ragouts, with a compliment from Donna such-a-
+one, who desires you will eat a little bit of what she has sent you, which
+must be done before her Mulatto's face, or it would be deemed a great
+affront. Had this been the fashion at Chiloe, we should never have
+offended; but sometimes here we could have wished this ceremony omitted.
+
+<p>The president never asked any of us a second time to his table. He expected
+us once a fortnight to be at his levee, which we never failed, and he
+always received us very politely. He was a man of a very amiable character,
+and much respected by every body in Chili, and some time after we left that
+country was appointed viceroy of Peru.
+
+<h2><a name="ch9" id="ch9">CHAPTER IX.</a></h2>
+
+<p>Account of the Bull Feasts and other Amusements.--Occurrences during nearly
+two Years Residence.--In December, 1744, we embark for Europe in the Lys
+French Frigate.--The Vessel leaky.--Dangerous Voyage.--Narrow Escape from
+English Cruizers.--Arrival in England.--Conclusion.
+
+<p>We had leave, whenever we asked it, to make an excursion into the country
+for ten or twelve days at a time, which we did sometimes to a very pleasant
+spot belonging to Don Joseph Dunose, a French gentleman, and a very
+sensible well-bred man, who had married a very agreeable lady at St Jago,
+with a good fortune. We also sometimes had invitations from the Spaniards
+to their country houses. We had a numerous acquaintance in the city, and in
+general received many civilities from the inhabitants. There are a great
+many people of fashion, and very good families from Old Spain settled here.
+A lady lived next door to us, whose name was Donna Francisca Giron; and as
+my name sounded something like it, she would have it that we were
+parientes. She had a daughter, a very fine young woman, who both played and
+sung remarkably well: she was reckoned the finest voice in St Jago. They
+saw a great deal of company, and we were welcome to her house whenever we
+pleased. We were a long time in this country, but we passed it very
+agreeably. The president alone goes with four horses to his coach; but the
+common vehicle here is a calash, or kind of vis-a-vis, drawn by one mule
+only.
+
+<p>Bull-feasts are a common diversion here, and surpass any thing of that kind
+I ever saw at Lisbon, or any where else. Indeed, it is amazing to see the
+activity and dexterity of those who attack the bulls. It is always done
+here by those only who follow it as a trade, for it is too dangerous to be
+practised as a diversion; as a proof of which, it is found, that though
+some may hold out longer than others, there are few who constantly practise
+it that die a natural death. The bulls are always the wildest that can be
+brought in from the mountains or forests, and have nothing on their horns
+to prevent their piercing a man at the first stroke, as they have at
+Lisbon. I have seen a man, when the bull came at him with the utmost fury,
+spring directly over the beast's head, and perform this feat several times,
+and at last jump on his back, and there sit a considerable time, the bull
+the whole time attempting every means to throw him. But though this
+practitioner was successful, several accidents happened while I was there.
+The ladies, at these feasts, are always dressed as fine as possible; and, I
+imagine, go rather to be admired than to receive any amusement from a sight
+that one should think would give them pain.
+
+<p>Another amusement for the ladies here, are the nights of their great
+processions, when they go out veiled; and in that dress, they amuse
+themselves in talking to people much in the manner that is done at our
+masquerades. One night in Lent, as I was standing close to the houses while
+the procession went by, and having nothing but a thin waistcoat on under my
+cloak, and happening to have my arm out, a lady came by, and gave me a
+pinch with so good a will, that I thought she had taken the piece out; and,
+indeed, I carried the marks for a long time after. I durst not take the
+least notice of this at the time, for had I made any disturbance, I should
+have been knocked on the head. This kind lady immediately after mixed with
+the crowd, and I never could find out who had done me that favour. I have
+seen fifty or sixty penitents following these processions; they wear a long
+white garment with a long train to it, and high caps of the same, which
+fall down before and cover all their faces, having only two small holes for
+their eyes, so that they are never known. Their backs are bare, and they
+lash themselves with a cat-o'-nine-tails till the long train behind is
+covered all over with blood. Others follow them with great heavy crosses
+upon their backs, so that they groan under the weight as they walk
+barefooted, and often faint away. The streets swarm with friars of all the
+different orders. The president has always a guard at his palace regularly
+clothed. The rest of their forces consists of militia, who are numerous.
+
+<p>All European goods are very dear. English cloth of fourteen or fifteen
+shillings a yard, sells there for ten or eleven dollars, and every other
+article in proportion. We found many Spaniards here that had been taken by
+Commodore Anson, and had been for some time prisoners on board the
+Centurion.. They all spoke in the highest terms of the kind treatment they
+had received; and it is natural to imagine, that it was chiefly owing to
+that laudable example of humanity our reception here was so good. They had
+never had any thing but privateers and buccaneers amongst them before, who
+handled their prisoners very roughly, so that the Spaniards in general,
+both of Peru and Chili, had the greatest dread of being taken by the
+English; but some of them told us, that they were so happy on board the
+Centurion, that they should not have been sorry if the commodore had taken
+them with him to England.
+
+<p>After we had been here some time, Mr Campbell changed his religion, and of
+course left us. At the end of two years, the president sent for us, and
+informed us a French ship from Lima, bound to Spain, had put into
+Valparaiso, and that we should embark in her. After taking leave of our
+good friend Mr Gedd, and all our acquaintance at St Jago, we set out for
+Valparaiso, mules and a guide being provided for us. I had forgot to say
+before, that Captain Cheap had been allowed by the president six reals a
+day, and we had four for our maintenance the whole time we were at St Jago,
+which money we took up as we wanted it. Our journey back was much
+pleasanter than we found it when we were first brought hither, as we had
+now no mules to drive. The first person I met, upon our entrance into
+Valparaiso, was the poor soldier whom I mentioned to have been so kind to
+us when we were imprisoned in the fort. I now made him a little present,
+which, as it came quite unexpected, made him very happy. We took lodgings
+till the ship was ready to sail, and diverted ourselves as we pleased,
+having the good fortune, at this time, to have nothing to do with the
+governor or his fort. The town is but a poor little place; there are,
+indeed, a good many storehouses built by the water-side for the reception
+of goods from the shipping.
+
+<p>About the 20th of December, 1744, we embarked on board the Lys frigate,
+belonging to St Malo. She was a ship of four hundred and twenty tons,
+sixteen guns, and sixty men. She had several passengers on board, and
+amongst the rest Don George Juan, a man of very superior abilities, (and
+since that time well known in England) who, with Don Antonio Ulloa, had
+been several years in Peru, upon a design of measuring some degrees of the
+meridian near the equator. We were now bound to Conception, in order to
+join three other French ships that were likewise bound home. As this was a
+time of the year when the southerly winds prevailed upon this coast, we
+stood off a long way to the westward, making the island of Juan Fernandez.
+We did not get into the Bay of Conception till the 6th of January, 1745,
+where we anchored at Talcaguana, and there found the Louis Erasme, the
+Marquis d'Antin, and the Delivrance, the three French ships that we were to
+accompany. It is but sixty leagues from Valparaiso to Conception, though we
+had been so long making this passage; but there is no beating up, near the
+shore, against the southerly wind, which is the trade at this season, as
+you are sure to have a lee-current; so that the quickest way of making a
+passage is to stand off a hundred and twenty or thirty leagues from the
+land.
+
+<p>The Bay of Conception is a large fine bay, but there are several shoals in
+it, and only two good anchoring places, though a ship may anchor within a
+quarter of a league of the town, but this only in the very fine months, as
+you lay much exposed. The best anchoring-place is Talcaguana, the
+southernmost neck of the bay, in five or six fathom water, good holding
+ground, and where you are sheltered from the northerly winds. The town has
+no other defence but a low battery, which only commands the anchoring-place
+before it. The country is extremely pleasant, and affords the greatest
+plenty of provisions of all kinds. In some excursions we made daily from
+Talcaguana, we saw great numbers of very large snakes, but we were told
+they were quite harmless.
+
+<p>I have read some former accounts of Chili, by the Jesuits, wherein they
+tell you that no venomous creature is to be found in it, and that they even
+made the experiment of bringing bugs here, which died immediately, but I
+never was in any place that swarmed with them so much as St Jago; and they
+have a large spider there, whose bite is so venomous, that I have seen from
+it some of the most shocking sights I ever saw in my life; and it certainly
+proves mortal, if proper remedies are not applied in time. I was once bit
+by one on the cheek whilst asleep, and presently after all that part of my
+face turned as black as ink. I was cured-by the application of a bluish
+kind of stone (the same, perhaps, they call the serpent-stone in the East
+Indies, and which is a composition.) The stone stuck for some time of
+itself on my face, and dropping off, was put into milk till it had digested
+the poison it had extracted, and then applied again till the pain abated,
+and I was soon afterwards well.
+
+<p>Whilst the ships remained at Conception, the people were employed in
+killing of cattle and salting them for the voyage, and every ship took on
+board as many bullocks and sheep as their decks could well hold, and having
+completed their business here, they sailed the 27th of January; but about
+eight days after our ship sprung a very dangerous leak forward, but so low,
+that there was no possibility of stopping it without returning into port,
+and lightening her till they could come at it. Accordingly we separated
+from the other ships, and made the best of our way for Valparaiso, keeping
+all hands at the pump night and day, passengers and all. However, as it
+happened, this proved a lucky circumstance for the Lys, as the three other
+ships were taken, and which certainly would have been her fate likewise had
+she kept company with the rest. As soon as we got into port, they lightened
+the ship forwards, and brought her by the stern till they came at the leak,
+which was soon, stopped. They made all the dispatch possible in completing
+the water again. Whilst at Valparaiso, we had one of the most violent
+shocks of an earthquake that we had ever felt yet.
+
+<p>On the first of March we put to sea again, the season being already far
+advanced for passing Cape Horn. The next day we went to an allowance of a
+quart of water a day for each man, which continued the whole passage. We
+were obliged to stand a long way to the westward, and went to the northward
+of Juan Fernandez above a degree, before we had a wind that we could make
+any southing with. On the 25th, in the latitude of 46 degrees, we met with
+a violent hard gale at west, which obliged us to lie-to under a reefed
+mainsail for some days, and before we got round the cape, we had many very
+hard gales, with a prodigious sea and constant thick snow; and after being
+so long in so delightful a climate as Chili, the cold was almost
+insupportable. After doubling the cape, we got but slowly to the northward;
+and indeed, at the best of times, the ship never went above six knots, for
+she was a heavy-going thing. On the 27th of May we crossed the Line, when
+finding that our water was grown extremely short, and that it would be
+almost impossible to reach Europe without a supply, it was resolved to bear
+away for Martinico. On the 29th of June, in the morning, we made the island
+of Tobago, and then shaped a course for Martinico, and on the first of
+July, by our reckonings, expected to see it, but were disappointed. This
+was imputed to the currents, which, whether they had set the ship to the
+eastward or westward, nobody could tell; but, upon looking over the charts,
+it was imagined, if the current had driven her to the westward, it must
+have been among the Granadillos, which was thought impossible without
+seeing any of them, as they are so near together, and a most dangerous
+place for rocks. It was then concluded we were to the eastward, and
+accordingly we steered S.W. by W.; but having run this course for above
+thirty leagues, and no land appearing, it was resolved to stand to the
+northward till we should gain the latitude of Porto Rico, and on the 4th in
+the evening we made that island, so that it was now certain the ship had
+been hustled through the Granadillos in the night, which was, without
+doubt, as extraordinary a passage as ever ship made.
+
+<p>It was now resolved to go between the islands of Porto Rico and St. Domingo
+for Cape Francois, therefore we lay-to that night. In the morning, we made
+sail along shore; and about ten o'clock, as I was walking the quarter-deck,
+Captain Cheap came out of the cabin, and told me he had just seen a beef-
+barrel go by the ship, that he was sure it had but lately been thrown
+overboard, and that he would venture any wager we saw an English cruizer
+before long. In about half an hour after, we saw two sail to leeward from,
+off the quarter-deck, for they kept no look-out from the mast-head, and we
+presently observed they were in chace of us. The French and Spaniards on
+board now began to grow a good deal alarmed, when it fell stark calm, but
+not before the ships had neared us so much, that we plainly discerned them
+to be English men of war, the one a two-decker, the other a twenty-gun
+ship. The French had now thoughts, when a breeze should spring up, of
+running the ship on shore upon Porto Rico; but when they came to consider
+what a set of banditti inhabited that island, and that in all probability
+they would have their throats cut for the sake of plundering the wreck,
+they were resolved to take their chance, and stand to the northward between
+the two islands.
+
+<p>In the evening, a fresh breeze sprung up, and we shaped a course
+accordingly. The two ships had it presently afterwards, and neared us
+amazingly fast. Now every body on board gave themselves up; the officers
+were busy in their cabins filling their pockets with what was most
+valuable; the men put on their best clothes, and many of them came to me
+with little lumps of gold, desiring I would take them, as they said they
+had much rather I should benefit by them, whom they were acquainted with,
+than those that chaced them. I told them there was time enough, though I
+thought they were as surely taken as if the English had been already on
+board. A fine moonlight night came on, and we expected every moment to see
+the ships alongside of us; but we saw nothing of them in the night, and to
+our great astonishment in the morning no ships were to be seen even from
+the mast-head. Thus did these two cruizers lose one of the richest prizes
+by not chasing an hour or two longer. There were near two millions of
+dollars on board, besides a valuable cargo.
+
+<p>On the eighth, at six in the morning, we were off Cape La Grange; and, what
+is very remarkable, the French at Cape Francois told us afterwards that was
+the only day they ever remembered since the war, that the cape had been
+without one or two English privateers cruising off it; and but the evening
+before two of them had taken two outward-bound St Domingo-men, and had gone
+with them for Jamaica, so that this ship might be justly esteemed a most
+lucky one. In the afternoon we came to an anchor in Cape Francois harbour.
+
+<p>In this long run we had not buried a single man, nor do I remember that
+there was one sick the whole passage, but at this place many were taken
+ill, and three or four died, for there is no part of the West Indies more
+unhealthy than this; yet the country is beautiful, and extremely well
+cultivated. After being here some time, the governor ordered us to wait
+upon him, which we did, when he took no more notice of us than if we had
+been his slaves, never asking us even to sit down.
+
+<p>Towards the end of August, a French squadron of five men of war came in,
+commanded by Monsieur L'Etanducre, who were to convoy the trade to France.
+Neither he nor his officers ever took any kind of notice of Captain Cheap,
+though we met them every day ashore. One evening, as we were going aboard
+with the captain of our ship, a midshipman belonging to Monsieur
+L'Etanducre jumped into our boat, and ordered the people to carry him on
+board the ship he belonged to, leaving us to wait upon the beach for two
+hours before the boat returned.
+
+<p>On the sixth of September, we put to sea, in company with the five men of
+war and about fifty sail of merchantmen. On the eighth, we made the Cayco
+Grande; and the next day a Jamaica privateer, a large fine sloop, hove in
+sight, keeping a little to windward of the convoy, resolving to pick up one
+or two of them in the night if possible. This obliged Monsieur L'Etanducre
+to send a frigate to speak to all the convoy, and order them to keep close
+to him in the night, which they did, and in such a manner, that sometimes
+seven or eight of them were on board one another together, by which they
+received much damage; and to repair which, the whole squadron was obliged
+to lay-to sometimes for a whole day. The privateer kept her station,
+jogging on with the fleet. At last, the commodore ordered two of his best
+going ships to chace her. She appeared to take no notice of them till they
+were pretty near her, and then would make sail and be out of sight
+presently. The chacing ships no sooner returned, than the privateer was in
+company again.
+
+<p>As by this every night some accident happened to some of the convoy by
+keeping so close together, a fine ship of thirty guns belonging to
+Marseilles, hauled out a little to windward of the rest of the fleet, which
+L'Etanducre perceiving in the morning, ordered the frigate to bring the
+captain of her on board of him; and then making a signal for all the convoy
+to close to him, he fired a gun, and hoisted a red flag at the ensign
+staff, and immediately after the captain of the merchantman was run up to
+the main-yard-arm, and from thence ducked three times. He was then sent on
+board his ship again, with orders to keep his colours flying the whole day,
+in order to distinguish him from the rest. We were then told, that the
+person who was treated in this cruel manner was a young man of an exceeding
+good family in the south of France, and likewise a man of great spirit, and
+that he would not fail to call Monsieur L'Etanducre to an account when an
+opportunity should offer; and the affair made much noise in France
+afterwards. One day, the ship we were in happened to be out of her station,
+by sailing so heavily, when the commodore made the signal to speak to our
+captain, who seemed frightened out of his wits. When we came near him, he
+began with the grossest abuse, threatening our captain, that if ever he was
+out of his station again, he would serve him as he had done the other. This
+rigid discipline, however, preserved the convoy; for though the privateer
+kept company a long time, she was not so fortunate as to meet with the
+reward of her perseverance.
+
+<p>On the 27th of October, in the evening, we made Cape Ortegal, and on the
+31st came to an anchor in Brest road. The Lys, having so valuable a cargo
+on board, was towed into the harbour next morning, and lashed alongside one
+of their men of war. The money was soon landed; and the officers and men,
+who had been so many years absent from their native country, were glad to
+get on shore. Nobody remained on board but a man or two to look after the
+ship, and we three English prisoners, who had no leave to go ashore. The
+weather was extremely cold, and felt particularly so to us, who had been so
+long used to hot climates; and what made it still worse, we were very
+thinly clad. We had neither fire nor candle, for they were allowed on board
+of no ship in the harbour for fear of accidents, being close to their
+magazines in the dock-yard. Some of the officers belonging to the ship were
+so kind as to send us off victuals every day, or we might have starved, for
+Monsieur L'Intendant never sent us even a message; and though there was a
+very large squadron of men of war fitting out at that time, not one officer
+belonging to them ever came near Captain Cheap. From five in the evening we
+were obliged to sit in the dark; and if we chose to have any supper, it was
+necessary to place it very near us before that time, or we never could have
+found it.
+
+<p>We had passed seven or eight days in this melancholy manner, when one
+morning a kind of row-galley came alongside with a number of English
+prisoners belonging to two large privateers the French had taken. We were
+ordered into the same boat with them, and were carried four leagues up the
+river to Landernaw. At this town we were upon our parole, so took the best
+lodgings we could get, and lived very well for three months, when an order
+came from the court of Spain to allow us to return home by the first ship
+that offered. Upon this, hearing there was a Dutch ship at Morlaix ready to
+sail, we took horses and travelled to that town, where we were obliged to
+remain six weeks before we had an opportunity of getting away. At last we
+agreed with the master of a Dutch dogger to land us at Dover, and paid him
+beforehand.
+
+<p>When we had got down the river into the road, a French privateer that was
+almost ready to sail upon a cruize, hailed the Dutchman, and told him to
+come to an anchor, and that if he offered to sail before him he would sink
+him. This he was forced to comply with, and lay three days in the road,
+cursing the Frenchman, who at the end of that time put to sea, and then we
+were at liberty to do the same. We had a long uncomfortable passage. About
+the ninth day, before sunset, we saw Dover, and reminded the Dutchman of
+his agreement to land us there. He said he would, but instead of that in
+the morning we were off the coast of France. We complained loudly of this
+piece of villainy, and insisted upon his returning to land us, when an
+English man of war appeared to windward, and presently bore down, to us.
+She sent her boat on board with an officer, who informed us that the ship
+he came from was the Squirrel, commanded by Captain Masterton. We went on
+board of her, and Captain Masterton immediately sent one of the cutters he
+had with him to land us at Dover, where we arrived that afternoon, and
+directly set out for Canterbury upon post-horses; but Captain Cheap was so
+tired by the time he got there, that he could proceed no farther that
+night.
+
+<p>The next morning he still found himself so much fatigued, that he could
+ride no longer; therefore it was agreed that he and Mr Hamilton should take
+a post-chaise, and that I should ride: but here an unlucky difficulty was
+started, for upon sharing the little money we had, it was found to be not
+sufficient to pay the charges to London; and my proportion fell so short,
+that it was, by calculation, barely enough to pay for horses, without a
+farthing for eating a bit upon the road, or even for the very turnpikes.
+Those I was obliged to defraud, by riding as hard as I could through them
+all, not paying the least regard to the men, who called out to stop me. The
+want of refreshment I bore as well as I could.
+
+<p>When I got to the Borough, I took a coach and drove to Marlborough-street,
+where my friends had lived when I left England; but when I came there, I
+found the house shut up. Having been absent so many years, and in all that
+time never having heard a word from home, I knew not who was dead or who
+was living, or where to go next, or even how to pay the coachman. I
+recollected a linen-draper's shop, not far from thence, which our family
+had used. I therefore drove there next, and making myself known, they paid
+the coachman. I then enquired after our family, and was told my sister had
+married Lord Carlisle, and was at that time in Soho-square. I immediately
+walked to the house, and knocked at the door; but the porter not liking my
+figure, which was half French half Spanish, with the addition of a large
+pair of boots covered with dirt, he was going to shut the door in my face,
+but I prevailed with him to let me come in.
+
+<p>I need not acquaint my readers with what surprise and joy my sister
+received me. She immediately furnished me with money sufficient to appear
+like the rest of my countrymen; and till that time I could not be properly
+said to have finished all the extraordinary scenes which a series of
+unfortunate adventures had kept me in for the space of five years and
+upwards.
+
+<p>
+
+<p>
+
+<p>
+A VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH-SEAS, IN THE YEARS 1740, AND 1741:
+
+<p>CONTAINING
+
+<p>A faithful NARRATIVE of the Loss of his Majesty's Ship the WAGER, on a
+desolate Island in the Latitude 47 South, Longitude 81: 40 West: With the
+Proceedings and Conduct of the Officers and Crew, and the Hardships they
+endured in the said Island for the Space of five Months; their bold Attempt
+for Liberty, in coasting the Southern Part of the vast Region of Patagonia;
+setting out with upwards of eighty Souls in their Boats; the Loss of the
+Cutter; their Passage through the Streights of Magellan; an Account of
+their Manner of Living in the Voyage on Seals, Wild Horses, Dogs, &amp;c. and
+the incredible Hardships they frequently underwent for want of Food of any
+Kind; a Description of the several Places where they touched in the
+Streights of Magellan, with an Account of the Inhabitants, &amp;c. and their
+safe Arrival to the Brazil, after sailing one thousand Leagues in a Long-
+boat; their Reception from the Portuguese; an Account of the Disturbances
+at Rio Grand; their Arrival at Rio Janeiro; their Passage and Usage on
+board a Portuguese Ship to Lisbon; and their Return to England.
+
+<p>Interspersed with many entertaining and curious Observations, not taken
+Notice of by Sir John Narborough, or any other Journalist:
+
+<p><i>The Whole compiled by Persons concerned in the Facts related</i>, viz.
+
+<p>JOHN BULKELEY AND JOHN CUMMINS,
+
+<p>Late Gunner and Carpenter of the WAGER.
+
+<p><i>Bold were the Men who on the Ocean first
+Spread the new Sails, when Shipwreck was the worst;
+More Dangers now from Man alone we find,
+Than from the Rocks, the Billows, and the Wind</i>. WALLER.[119]
+
+<blockquote>[119] In reprinting this very curious and scarce Narrative, we have thought
+it proper to adhere to the orthography and contractions of the
+original throughout. The former are little different from the present
+standard, and the latter cannot give any trouble to the reader.
+Altogether, this is a composition not without merit sufficient to
+warrant its being preserved.--E.</blockquote>
+
+<p>BULKELEYS NARRATIVE.
+
+<p>TO THE HONOURABLE EDWARD VERNON, ESQ. VICE-ADMIRAL OF THE BLUE, &amp;c.
+
+<p>Sir,
+
+<p>We have presumed to put the following sheets under your protection, though
+we have not the honour of being personally known to you, nor have applied
+to you for the liberty of using your celebrated name on this occasion.
+
+<p>As this book is a faithful extract from the journals of two British seamen,
+late officers in his majesty's navy, we thought we could not more properly
+dedicate it than to a British Admiral.
+
+<p>We know your detestation of flattery; and you know, from long experience,
+that a British seaman hath a spirit too brave to stoop to so degenerate a
+practice.
+
+<p>The following pages, we hope, will recommend themselves to you, because
+they are written in a plain maritime style, and void of partiality and
+prejudice.
+
+<p>The distresses mentioned in this book have perhaps not been equalled in our
+age; and we question whether any navigators living have, for so long a
+continuance, suffered such variety of hardships, as the unfortunate people
+of the Wager.
+
+<p>After surviving the loss of the ship, and combating with famine and
+innumerable difficulties, a remnant of us are returned to our native
+country; but even here we are still unfortunate, destitute of employment,
+almost without support, or any prospect of being restored to our stations,
+till some important questions are decided, which cannot be cleared up till
+the arrival of our late captain, or at least the commodore.
+
+<p>We, sir, who present you with this book, have been several years in the
+navy, and thought ourselves well acquainted with its laws and discipline,
+and have many certificates to produce, that we have always acted in
+obedience to command; but the proceedings of the officers and people, since
+the loss of the ship, are reckoned so dark and intricate, that we know not
+what to expect, nor what will be the result of our superiors determination.
+
+<p>The only consolation we have in our present anxiety, is placed in a
+confidence of the unbiassed integrity, justice, and humanity of the right
+honourable persons who will one day determine for or against us.
+
+<p>When you read our account of the affair, you'll find the facts impartially
+related, the whole narrative written without the least shadow of prejudice
+or malice, and no more in favour of ourselves, than of the other officers
+concerned: We stand or fall by the truth; if truth will not support us,
+nothing can.
+
+<p>In our voyage from the Brazil to Lisbon, we were obliged to you for the
+generous treatment we met with from an enemy, a subject of Spain, a person
+of distinction, and a passenger in the same ship: your virtues have
+procured you the esteem even of your enemies.
+
+<p>Your zeal for the national service deserves the love of every honest
+Briton: to leave an abundant fortune, your family, and your country, to
+hazard your life in the most perilous expeditions, with no other motive
+than to retrieve the honour of the nation, shows the spirit of a true
+British hero, and deserves the highest commendations.
+
+<p>That you, sir, may never deviate from your integrity, but continue a terror
+to the enemies of Britain, an honour to his majesty's service, and an
+ornament to your country, are the sincere wishes of,
+
+<p>Honourable Sir,<br>
+Your most dutiful,<br>
+And most obedient<br>
+Humble Servants,<br>
+John Bulkeley,<br>
+John Cummins.</p>
+
+<h2><a name="appendix2" id="appendix2">BULKELEY'S NARRATIVE.</a></h2>
+
+<p>PREFACE.
+
+<p>As an Introduction, we think proper to acquaint the reader with our reasons
+for causing the following sheets to be made public to the world. The chief
+motive which induced us to this task, was to clear our characters, which
+have been exceedingly blemished by persons who, (next to Heaven) owe the
+preservation of their lives to our skill and indefatigable care; and who
+having an opportunity of arriving before us in England, have endeavoured to
+raise their reputation on the ruin of ours.
+
+<p>It will appear to the reader, on perusal of the following pages, that this
+journal was attempted to be taken from us by violence at Rio Janeiro; that
+we have preserved it at the hazard of our lives; that there was no journal
+kept after the loss of the ship, by any officers but ourselves; and if we
+had not been careful in making remarks on each day's transactions, persons
+must have continued in the dark, in relation to all the subsequent
+proceedings.
+
+<p>It is a very usual thing to publish voyages, especially when the navigators
+have met with any extraordinary events. We believe our expedition, though
+it was not a secret, is allowed to be an extraordinary one, consequently
+attended with extraordinary events: Indeed, while the commodore was with
+us, every thing went well; but when the squadron separated, things began to
+have a new face: After the loss of the Wager, there was a general disorder
+and confusion among the people, who were now no longer implicitly obedient.
+There were two seamen particularly, who propagated this confusion, they
+said they had suffered shipwreck in his majesty's ship the Biddeford, and
+received no wages from the day that the ship was lost; that when they were
+out of pay, they looked upon themselves as their own masters, and no longer
+subjected to command. The people, however, were not altogether infected,
+but still continued to pay a dutiful respect to their commander; but when
+the captain had rashly shot Mr Cozens, (whose fate the reader will find
+particularly related) they then grew very turbulent and unruly; the captain
+daily lost the love of the men, who with their affection lost their duty.
+
+<p>Our confining the captain is thought an audacious and unprecedented action,
+and our not bringing him home with us is reckoned worse; but the reader
+will find that necessity absolutely compelled us to act as we did, and that
+we had sufficient reasons for leaving him behind.
+
+<p>Our attempt for liberty, in sailing to the southward through the straits of
+Magellan, with such a number of people stowed in a long-boat, has been
+censured as a mad undertaking: Desperate diseases require desperate
+remedies; had we gone to the northward, there appeared no probability of
+escaping the Spaniards, and when we had fallen into their hands, 'tis not
+unlikely but they might have employed us as drudges in their mines for
+life; therefore we rather chose to encounter all difficulties than to
+become slaves to a merciless enemy.
+
+<p>Some persons have objected against our capacity for keeping a journal of
+this nature; but several judges of maritime affairs allow this work to be
+exact and regular. We think persons with a common share of understanding,
+are capable of committing to paper daily remarks of matter worthy their
+observation, especially of facts in which they themselves had so large a
+share. We only relate such things as could not possibly escape our
+knowledge, and what we actually know to be true. We don't set up for
+naturalists and men of great learning, therefore have avoided meddling with
+things above our capacity.
+
+<p>We are also condemned by many for being too busy and active for persons in
+our stations. There was a necessity for action, and a great deal of it too;
+and had we been as indolent and regardless for the preservation of the
+people as others who were superior in command, there would not have been a
+single man who was shipwrecked in the Wager, now in England to give any
+relation of the matter.
+
+<p>The gentleman who commanded in the long-boat, on his arrival before us at
+Lisbon, represented us to the English merchants in a very vile light; we
+were even advised by some of our friends there not to return to our
+country, lest we would suffer death for mutiny. But when the gentlemen of
+the factory had perused our journal, they found, if there was any mutiny in
+the case, the very person who accused us was the ringleader and chief
+mutineer. We were confident of our own innocence, and determined to see our
+country at all events, being positive that we have acted to the best of our
+understandings, in all respects, for the preservation of our lives and
+liberties; and when our superiors shall think proper to call us to an
+account, which we expect will be at the commodore's arrival, we do not
+doubt but we shall clear ourselves in spite of all invidious reflections
+and malicious imputations.
+
+<p>It has been hinted to us, as if publishing this journal would give offence
+to some persons of distinction. We can't conceive how any transactions
+relating to the Wager, although made ever so public, can give offence to
+any great man at home. Can it be any offence to tell the world that we were
+shipwrecked in the Wager, when all people know it already? Don't they know
+that the Wager was one of his majesty's store-ships? That we had on board
+not only naval stores, but other kind of stores, of an immense value? Don't
+they also know that we went abroad with hopes of acquiring great riches,
+but are return'd home as poor as beggars? We are guilty of no indecent
+reproaches, or unmannerly reflections; though, it is certain, we cannot but
+lament our being engaged in so fatal an expedition. When persons have
+surmounted great difficulties, it is a pleasure for them to relate their
+story; and if we give ourselves this satisfaction, who has any cause to be
+offended? Are we, who have faced death in so many shapes, to be
+intimidated, lest we should give offence to the--Lord knows whom? We never
+saw a satyrical journal in our lives, and we thought that kind of writing
+was the most obnoxious to give offence.
+
+<p>It has been a thing usual, in publishing of voyages, to introduce abundance
+of fiction; and some authors have been esteemed merely for being
+marvellous. We have taken care to deviate from those, by having a strict
+regard to truth. There are undoubtedly in this book some things which will
+appear incredible.
+
+<p>The account we give of the Patagonian Indians, and our own distresses,
+though ever so well attested, will not easily obtain credit; and people
+will hardly believe that human nature could possibly support the miseries
+that we have endured.
+
+<p>All the difficulties related we have actually endured, and perhaps must
+endure more: Till the commodore's arrival we cannot know our fate; at
+present we are out of all employment, and have nothing to support ourselves
+and families, but the profits arising from the sale of our journal; which
+perhaps may be the sum total we shall ever receive for our voyage to the
+South Seas.
+
+<p>A VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS.
+
+<p>On Thursday the 18th of September, 1740, sailed from St Hellens his
+majesty's ship Centurion, Commodore Anson, with the Gloucester, Pearl,
+Severn, Wager, and Tryal, and two store-ships; this squadron was designed
+round Cape-Horn into the South Seas, to distress the Spaniards in those
+parts. The ships were all in prime order, all lately rebuilt. The men were
+elevated with hopes of growing immensely rich, and in a few years of
+returning to Old England loaden with the wealth of their enemies.
+
+<p>Saturday, the 20th, the Ram-head bearing N. by W., distant four leagues,
+the commodore hoisted his pendant, and was saluted by every ship in the
+squadron, with thirteen guns each. This day joined company with us his
+majesty's ships Dragon, Winchester, South-Sea-Castle, and Rye-Galley, with
+a large convoy of merchant ships.
+
+<p>Thursday, the 25th, we parted company with the Winchester and the South-
+Sea-Castle, with their convoys, bound for America.
+
+<p>On Monday, we parted company with the Streights and Turkey convoys.
+
+<p>Friday, October the 3d, at eight in the morning, we saw two brigantines to
+the south-east; the commodore gave a signal to chace, at nine fired two
+shots to bring 'em to, at ten spoke with the chace, being two brigs from
+Lisbon, bound for New York.
+
+<p>Sunday, the 26th, about five in the morning, the Severn shewed lights, and
+fired several guns a-head; soon after we saw the land bearing W. by S, and
+at noon the east end of Madeira bore north, distant five leagues.
+
+<p>Wednesday, we moored in Fonchiale road, so called from a city of that name,
+which is the metropolis of the island of Madeira; here we employed most of
+our time in getting aboard water, and stowing our dry provisions between
+decks.
+
+<p>Tuesday, November the 4th, Captain Kidd our commander was removed on board
+the Pearl, and the Honourable Captain Murray succeeded him in the Wager.
+Captain Norris of the Gloucester having obtained leave to return to
+England, on account of his ill state of health, occasioned the above
+removals.
+
+<p>While we lay at Madeira, we were informed of ten sail of ships cruising off
+and on, to the westward, these ships were judged to be French, and had been
+seen every day for a week before our arrival: The commodore sent out a
+privateer sloop, but she returned the day following, without seeing 'em, so
+that we can give no account of 'em.
+
+<p>On Wednesday, the 5th, we sailed, from Madeira. On the 2Oth the Industry
+store-ship parted company, and on Friday the 28th, by account, we crossed
+the equinoctial.
+
+<p>On the 17th of December, we saw the island of St Catharine, at noon, the
+northmost land in sight bore W.N.W., and the southmost S.W. by W. Variation
+per amplitude 12; 57 easterly.
+
+<p>On the 18th, the north end of the island of St Catharine bore N.W. by W.,
+distant seven leagues, and the island of Gaul bore N.W., distant six
+leagues.
+
+<p>On the 19th we anchored in St Catharine's bay, in upward of twelve fathom
+water, the island Gaul on the coast of Brazil, bearing N. by E., distant
+four leagues. On the 20th, we anchored in St Catharine's road, and the day
+following, we moored between the island of St Catharine and the main.
+
+<p>On Monday, the 22d, the commodore ordered fresh beef for the sick people.
+
+<p>On the 27th, came in a Portuguese brig from Rio Janeiro, for the Rio Grand:
+While we lay here, the people were generally employed in over-hauling the
+rigging, and getting aboard water.
+
+<p>On the 17th of January, 1741, we sailed from St Catharine's, the commodore
+saluted the fort with eleven guns, the fort returned the same number.
+
+<p>On Thursday, the 22d, we lost sight of the Pearl.
+
+<p>On Tuesday, the 17th of February, the Pearl joined the squadron, and on the
+19th we came to anchor off the river of St Julian's, on the coast of
+Patagonia; St Julian's hill bearing S.W. by W., and the southmost land in
+sight S. by E., distant from the shore three leagues. This day our captain,
+the Honourable George Murray, took command on board the Pearl, Captain Kidd
+having died on the voyage since we left St Catharine's.
+
+<p>Captain Kidd was heard to say, a few days before his death, that this
+voyage, which both officers and sailors had engaged in with so much
+cheerfulness and alacrity, would prove in the end very far from their
+expectations, notwithstanding the vast treasure they imagined to gain by
+it; that it would end in poverty, vermin; famine, death, and destruction.
+How far the captain's words were prophetic will appear in the course of our
+journal. Captain C--p succeeded Captain Murray on board the Wager.
+
+<p>On the 26th of February, we sent on board the Pearl twelve butts and two
+puncheons of water, the Pearl having, while she was separated from us, been
+chased by five large Spanish men of war, the commander in chief being
+distinguished by a red broad pendant with a swallow's tail at his main-top-
+mast head, and a red flag at his ensign-staff: During the chace, the Pearl,
+in order to clear ship, threw overboard and stove fourteen tons of water;
+she likewise stove the long-boat, and threw her overboard, with oars,
+sails, and booms, and made all clear for engaging, but night coming on at
+seven o'clock lost sight of the enemy, at five in the morning saw the
+Spanish ships from the mast-head, two points on the lee-quarter, still
+giving chace, and crowding all the sail they could, but at nine the Pearl
+lost sight of 'em entirely. We judged this to be admiral Pizarro's
+squadron, sent out in pursuit of Commodore Anson. Had our ships united
+fallen in with 'em, 'tis probable we might have given a good account of
+'em. While we lay at St Julian's we saw the sea full of shrimps, and red as
+if they were boiled, the water appeared tinctured to that degree, that it
+looked like blood.
+
+<p>On the 27th, we sent on board the Pearl four puncheons of water more; at
+six in the morning, the commodore made signal to weigh, at eight weighed,
+and came to sail; this day we lost sight of the Gloucester.
+
+<p>The 28th, the Gloucester came into the squadron again.
+
+<p>On the 7th of March we passed through the Streights of Le Mair; Cape Diego,
+on the island of Terra de Fuego, bore N.W., three leagues, and the west end
+of the island, Staten Land, bore E.N.E., distant four leagues, the squadron
+under reeft courses.
+
+<p>On the 10th, we lost sight of the Ann pink, on the 12th carried away the
+rails and timbers of the head on both sides.
+
+<p>On the 16th, the Ann pink joined the squadron again.
+
+<p>On the 3Oth, the Gloucester broke her main-yard in the slings.
+
+<p>April the 1st, the commodore ordered Mr Cummins, the carpenter, on board
+the Gloucester.
+
+<p>On the 8th, carried away the mizen-mast, two feet above the awning; there
+was no sail on the mast. Upon the rowl of a sea, all the chain-plates to
+windward broke, lat. 56, 31, long. 87.4, west. At noon Cape St Bartholomew
+bore north, 84 deg. E., distant 229 leagues.
+
+<p>The 10th, lost sight of the Severn and Pearl, lat. 56, 29, long. 85 west.
+At ten last night fell in with two small islands; at eight in the morning
+the islands bore N.N.W., by the compass distant eight leagues, in the
+latitude 54, 00 south; we took 'em for the islands which lay off Brewer's
+Streights, lat. 54, 50 south, long. 84, 56 west.
+
+<p>On the 12th, we had very hard gales at west, with the largest swell I ever
+saw; I was officer of the watch (though I was gunner of the ship, I had the
+charge of a watch during the whole voyage); we had our larboard tacks on
+board: Between six and seven in the morning, holding by the topsail
+hallyards to wind-ward, there broke a sea in the ship, which carried me
+over the wheel, bilged the cutter, and canted her over the sheet's bottom
+up athwart the barge; it likewise half filled the long-boat; the boatswain
+was for heaving the cutter overboard, I order'd him to do nothing with her
+till I had acquainted the captain, who was then very ill in his cabin: The
+captain desired me to use all means to save the cutter; at the same time I
+ask'd leave to skuttle the long-boat, and get the sprit-sail yard and jib
+in, for fear of endangering the bowsprit; which he ordered to be done, and
+told me, it was a very great misfortune that he should be ill at such a
+time. When I came from the captain, I found the lieutenant on the deck, got
+the cutter in her place, skuttled the long-boat, and got the sprit-sail
+yard and jib-boom in. The carpenter is still aboard the Gloucester.
+
+<p>The 13th, under reeft courses, the larboard tacks; the commodore being on
+the weather quarter, bore down under our lee, and spoke with us. He ask'd
+the captain, if the carpenter was returned from the Gloucester? The captain
+answer'd, No; and am surprised Captain M----d should detain him, when he
+knows I must want him about my mizen-mast. The commodore told him he would
+speak with the Gloucester, and order him on board. He then ask'd the
+captain why he did not set the main-top-sail, and make more sail? Captain
+C----p made answer, My rigging is all gone, and broke fore and aft, and my
+people almost all taken ill, and down; but I will set him as soon as
+possible. The commodore desired he would, and make what sail he could after
+him.
+
+<p>The 14th, the carpenter return'd from the Gloucester, it being the only day
+this fortnight a boat could live in the sea. As soon as the carpenter came
+on board, he waited on the captain, who order'd him to look on the chain-
+plates and chains, and give his opinion of the mast's going away. The
+carpenter look'd as order'd, and gave Captain C----p for answer, that the
+chain-plates were all broke. The captain shook his head, and said,
+Carpenter, that is not the reason of the mast's going away. The carpenter,
+not willing, as the mast was gone, to lay it to any one's mismanagement, or
+to occasion any uneasiness about what was now past prevention, fitted a cap
+on the stump of the mizen-mast, got up a lower studding-sail boom of 40
+feet, and hoisted a sail to keep the ship to.
+
+<p>To-day, being the 19th, and the finest day we had in these seas, we were
+employ'd in repairing the rigging; we bent a new main-sail and reeft him,
+as did the Anne pink, the Gloucester at the same time fix'd her main-yard,
+the commodore and Tryal keeping a-head, and at a considerable distance;
+between four and six at night saw the commodore's light. At six, being
+relieved by the master, he could not see the commodore's light, though it
+was visible to every one else on the quarter-deck: The master still
+persisted he could not see it, on which I went and acquainted the captain,
+who came upon deck, and seeing the light, ask'd the master where his eyes
+were? This was the last time I ever saw the commodore. The lieutenant
+having the first watch lost sight of him at nine o'clock, and at ten was
+obliged to hand the foresail, in doing of which we lost a seaman over-
+board. We saw the Gloucester and Anne pink a-stern in the morning, but they
+were soon gone ahead, and out of sight.
+
+<p>The 21st, as I was in the steward's room, Joseph King, seaman, came for a
+pound of bread. I heard him ask the steward, if he thought they would be
+serv'd with the same quantity of water as before? Without waiting for an
+answer, No G--d d--n 'em, as the commodore was parted, they should find the
+difference. Not knowing the conseqence of this, or by whom the fellow might
+be spirited up, I acquainted the captain with the affair, who order'd me to
+deliver a brace of pistols charg'd with a brace of balls to every officer
+in the ship who wanted 'em, and to take no farther notice of the matter.
+
+<p>May the 1st. This day the officers were call'd, and their opinions ask'd
+concerning the best bower-anchor, resolved to cut the anchor away, for fear
+of endangering the ship, there being no possibility of securing it without
+putting our fore-mast in extreme danger, the shrouds and chain-plates being
+all broke.
+
+<p>Fourteen days before the loss of the ship, the wind at S. and S.S.W.,
+steered N.W. by N., and N.N.W. by the compass: Laid the ship to for the
+first four nights; the meaning of this I could not learn. I ask'd the
+lieutenant the reason of our bearing for the land on a lee shore, when we
+had a fair wind for our rendezvous, which I had always thought was for the
+island of Juan Ferdinandez. The lieutenant told me the rendezvous was
+alter'd to an island in the latitude of 44 S. Upon this I said to the
+lieutenant, this was a very great misfortune to us, that we can do nothing
+with the ship in the condition she is in upon a lee shore, and am surpriz'd
+that we should be obliged to go there. The lieutenant told me, he had said
+every thing to dissuade the captain from it, but found him determined to go
+there. The fifth night, and every night after, made sail; the wind to the
+westward. I never relieved the lieutenant, but I ask'd him, what he thought
+of a lee shore with the ship in this condition? he always reply'd, he could
+not tell. We saw rock-weed in abundance pass by the ship. The Honourable
+J---n B---n, midshipman, being on the quarter-deck, said, We can't be far
+off the land by these weeds. The lieutenant and mate being by, I said,
+Gentlemen, what can we do with the ship in the miserable condition she is
+in on a lee shore? The lieutenant answer'd, Whenever I have been with the
+captain since our first lying-to, I always persuaded him to go for Juan
+Ferdinandez; therefore I would have you go to him, he may be persuaded by
+you tho' he will not by me. I said, If that was the case, my going to him
+is needless. In a quarter of an hour afterwards, the captain sent for me,
+and said, Gunner, what longitude have you made? I told him 82,30. What
+distance do you reckon yourself off the land? I answer'd, About 60 leagues;
+but if the two islands we saw are these which are laid down in your chart
+to lie off Brewer's Streights, and the same current continues with the
+western swell, we can't be above a third part of the distance off the land.
+The captain made answer, As for the currents, there is no account to be
+given for 'em; sometimes they set one way, and sometime another. I said,
+Sir, very true, but as the ship has been always under reeft courses, and
+the mizen-mast gone, she must wholly drive to leeward, and nigher the land
+than expected. The captain then told me, I suppose you are not unacquainted
+of my rendezvous for the island of Nostra Signora di Socora, in the
+latitude of 44. I reply'd, Sir, the ship is in a very bad condition to come
+in with the lee shore, and if it is possible to bring the ship to an
+anchor, we shall never purchase him again. The captain answered, I don't
+design to come to an anchor; for there are soundings until you come within
+seven leagues of the land. I purpose to stand off and on twenty-four hours;
+and if I don't see the commodore, or any of the squadron in that time, we
+will go for Juan Ferdinandez. To this I said, Sir, the ship is a perfect
+wreck; our mizen-mast gone, with our standing rigging afore and abaft, and
+all our people down; therefore I can't see what we can do in with the land.
+The captain's answer was, It does not signify, I am obliged and determin'd
+to go for the first rendezvous.
+
+<p>On the 13th, at eight in the morning, the straps of the fore-jeer blocks
+broke; reev'd the top ropes, and lower'd the yard; went to strapping the
+blocks. At nine, the carpenter going forward to inspect the chain-plates,
+saw the land from the fore-castle, on which he ask'd the boatswain's mate,
+who was by him, if he saw the land? he answer'd, No; the carpenter shew'd
+it him and he saw it plain. The carpenter then shew'd it to the lieutenant,
+but he would not believe it to be land, because it bore N.N.W., and said it
+was impossible; therefore he never inform'd the captain of the sight of
+land, as the Honourable Mr B----n hath heard the captain say. At two in the
+afternoon lower'd the fore-yard, and hawl'd the fore-sail up;
+notwithstanding I was officer of the watch, I was oblig'd to go upon the
+fore-yard, where was Mr Campbell, midshipman, one boatswain's mate, four
+seamen, and the master's servant, which were all the hands we could get out
+of the ship's company to assist. Whilst on the yard I saw the land very
+plain, on the lardboard beam, bearing N.W. half N., nearest high land, with
+hillocks, and one remarkable hommocoe like a sugar loaf, very high. At the
+sight of land I came off the fore-yard and acquainted the captain. He
+immediately gave orders to sway the fore-yard up, and set the fore-sail;
+then we wore ship with her head to the southward. The captain coming
+forward unhappily received a fall, which dislocated his shoulder, so that
+he was obliged to be put into the surgeon's cabin. Some time after he sent
+for the lieutenant and myself, acquainting us of the necessity there was
+for making sail, as being on a lee shore, therefore desired we would use
+our utmost endeavours to crowd the ship off. You see, gentlemen, said he,
+my misfortune will not permit me to continue on the deck; as for the
+master, he is not worthy of the charge of a watch, therefore I must desire
+you, Mr Bulkeley, to be in the watch with him, and to make but two watches;
+keep a good look-out, and if possible, set the main-top sail. Mr B----s, I
+must desire Mr Cummins to be with you, and beg you will take all the care
+you can. I having the first watch, set the main fore and mizen stay sail,
+it blew so hard I found it impossible to set the maintop sail, of which, I
+acquainted the captain: All the hands we cou'd muster in both watches,
+officers included, were but twelve, the rest of the ship's company were all
+sick below; I very often could get no more than three seamen in my watch.
+The ship for these three weeks hath been no better than a wreck, the mizen-
+mast gone, the standing rigging and chain-plates, afore and abaft, mostly
+broke and ruin'd. The top sails now at the yards are so bad, that if we
+attempt to loose'em for making sail, we are in danger of splitting'em, and
+we have not a spare sail in the ship that can be brought to the yard
+without being repair'd. This is the present deplorable situation of the
+ship. All the first and middle watch it blow'd and rain'd, and withal so
+very dark, that we could not see the length of the ship: For the greatest
+part of the night she came up no nearer than S. by W., and S.S.W. At four
+in the morning she came up with her head west, so that her head was then
+off the shore.
+
+<p>Thursday, May the 14th, 1741, at half an hour past four this morning, the
+ship struck abaft on a sunken rock, sounded fourteen fathom; but it being
+impossible to let go the anchor time enough to bring her up, being
+surrounded on every side with rocks, (a very dismal prospect to behold!)
+the ship struck a second time, which broke the head of the tiller, so that
+we were obliged to steer her with the main and fore-sheets, by easing off
+one, and hawling aft the other, as she came to, or fell off. In a short
+time after, she struck, bilged, and grounded, between two small islands,
+where Providence directed us to such a place as we could save our lives.
+When the ship struck it was about break of day, and not above a musket-shot
+from the shore. Launched the barge, cutter, and yawl over the gunnel, cut
+main and fore-mast by the board, and the sheet-anchor from the gunnel. The
+captain sent the barge ashore, with Mr S----w, the mate, to see if the
+place was inhabited, and to return aboard directly; but, without any regard
+to his duty, or the preservation of the lives of the people, he staid
+ashore. The barge not returning as expected, the lieutenant was sent in the
+yawl, with orders to bring off the barge. The lieutenant tarried ashore,
+but sent off the boat. As soon as the boat came on board, the captain being
+very ill, was persuaded by the officers to go ashore: With the captain went
+the land-officers, mate, and midshipmen, the officers remaining on board
+were the master, boatswain, gunner, and carpenter: The boatswain, who was
+laid up a month before the loss of the ship, became of a sudden very
+vigorous and active. At night it blow'd very hard at north, with a great
+tumbling sea, we expected every moment that the ship would part, fetching
+such jirks and twistings as shock'd every person aboard, who had the least
+care for the preservation of life; yet, in the dismal situation we were in,
+we had several in the ship so thoughtless of their danger, so stupid and
+insensible of their misery, that upon the principal officers leaving her,
+they fell into the most violent outrage and disorder: They began with
+broaching the wine in the lazaretto; then to breaking open cabins and
+chests, arming themselves with swords and pistols, threatening to murder
+those who should oppose or question them: Being drunk and mad with liquor,
+they plunder'd chests and cabins for money and other things of value,
+cloathed themselves in the richest apparel they could find, and imagined
+themselves lords paramount.
+
+<p>Friday the 15th, the ship was bilged in the mid-ship, on a great rock; we
+took care to secure some powder, ball, and a little bread. In the
+afternoon, the carpenter and myself went ashore with several of those
+imaginary lords in the rich attire they had plunder'd yesterday; but upon
+the purser, and Lieutenant Hamilton of marines, presenting pistols to some
+of their breasts, those grandees suffer'd themselves very quietly to be
+disrob'd of all their greatness, and in a few minutes look'd like a parcel
+of transported fellons. On our coming ashore, we found the captain had
+taken his lodging in a little hut, supposed to be built by Indians; as for
+our parts, we were forced to take shelter under a great tree, where we made
+a large fire, but it rain'd so hard, that it had almost cost us our lives;
+an invalid died that very night on the spot. Before I left the ship I went
+to my cabin for my journal, but could not find it; I believe it is
+destroyed with the rest, for there is not one journal to be produced, we
+have good reason to apprehend there was a person employ'd to destroy them;
+I afterwards found part of the master's journal along shore, tore to
+pieces: Whatever is related in this book, preceding the loss of the Wager,
+is extracted from a journal belonging to a gentleman, lately an officer on
+board the Pearl. After we lost sight of the Pearl, I was obliged to have
+recourse to my memory, which I believe has been very faithful to me. From
+the time we were ship-wreck'd, the carpenter and myself were exceeding
+careful in writing each day's transactions: Had other persons taken the
+same care, there would be no necessity of imposing upon the publick a
+partial and inconsistent narrative, instead of a faithful relation of
+facts.
+
+<p>On the 16th, the weather very boisterous and a great sea, the boatswain
+wanted a boat, but finding no appearance of any coming aboard, brought a
+quarter-deck gun, a four pounder, to bear on the captain's hut, and fir'd
+two shot, which went just over the captain's tent. This day, being resolv'd
+to contrive something like a house, to secure us from the inclemency of the
+rain, and severity of the weather, we hawl'd up the cutter, and propping
+her up, we made a tolerable habitation. As for food, this island produces
+none; nor is there any vegetable upon it but cellery, which grows here in
+abundance, and is of great use to us, the men being in general very much
+troubled with the scurvy.
+
+<p>On the 17th of May, being Whitsunday, got several wild fowls, and plenty of
+muscles, limpets, and other shell-fish, which we find very refreshing,
+having subsisted a long time on nothing but salt provisions.
+
+<p>The 18th, went on board the ship, to see if it was possible to come at any
+provisions; got out of the Lazaretto two casks of flour and some wine,
+which were very useful.
+
+<p>On the 19th, went aboard again to scuttle the decks, in order to get some
+beef and pork out of the hold; we also scuttled the carpenter's store-room
+for nails and other things of service.
+
+<p>The 20th, cut away the gunnel to get the long-boat out, which was done. To-
+day we found several men dead, and some drowned, in the ship, suppos'd to
+have drank till they were not able to get from the water, as it flowed into
+the ship. While we were aboard working on the wreck, there came along-side
+a canoe with several Indians, bowing and crossing themselves, giving us to
+understand they were inclinable to the Romish religion; we gave 'em out of
+the ship two bales of cloth and sent them ashore to the captain, he gave
+them hats, and presented each of them with a soldier's coat. They had
+abundance of the largest and best muscles I ever saw, or tasted. This day
+was the first time of the boatswain's coming ashore; the captain called him
+rogue and villain, and felled him to the ground with his cane, so that he
+was motionless, and to appearance dead; when he had recovered the blow, and
+saw a cock'd pistol in the captain's hand, he offered his naked breast; the
+captain told him, he deserved to be shot, and said no more to him. The
+captain, lieutenant H--n of marines, the surgeon, and purser, always
+appear'd in arms on the beach, on the coming ashore of every boat, in order
+to prevent the people bringing any thing from the ship in a clandestine
+manner; they were so cautious of any thing being imbezzled, that they would
+not suffer the boats to go off and work by night, notwithstanding the moon,
+tides, and fairness of weather were more favourable to us by night than
+day; by this we omitted several opportunities of getting our provisions,
+and other useful things, which we shall shortly stand in great need of.
+
+<p>The 21st, continue to scuttle between decks, in getting necessaries out of
+the ship, found several men dead.
+
+<p>The 22d, the Indians brought us three sheep and some muscles. They are a
+people of a small stature, well shaped, of an olive complection, with black
+hair, in behaviour very civil, they have little clothes, except about their
+waists, notwithstanding the climate is very cold. They stay'd all night, it
+being very rainy weather, and has been ever since we have been here, the
+wind blowing from N. to N.W.
+
+<p>Saturday the 23d, the wind from the E.N.E. to north, fell abundance of
+snow, insomuch that the mountains are cover'd with it. It freezes very
+hard, and we find it extremely cold. The next day, the same weather, we
+went aboard, and scuttled for flour in the forehold.
+
+<p>The 25th, little wind at N.E. and frosty weather, went aboard again, and
+got out of the forehold eight barrels of flour, one cask of pease, with
+some brandy and wine. This day went to allowance, of half a pound of flour
+per man, and one piece of pork for three men, it being the first time of
+serving since on shore.
+
+<p>The 26th, we got out more casks of flour, one cask of oatmeal, with some
+brandy and wine. In the evening the Indians came with their wives, we gave
+the women hats, and the men breeches; they made signs as if they would
+bring more sheep.
+
+<p>On the 27th, we scuttled over the captain's store-room, got out several
+casks of rum and wine, and brought them ashore. This was the first time of
+the lieutenant's being between decks since the loss of the ship. The
+following day we went aboard, cut down and tost overboard the ship's
+awning, to make a deck for the long-boat.
+
+<p>Since the 27th, we have been employ'd in getting up the long-boat, and
+repairing the barge which had been stove ashore. Rainy weather.
+
+<p>On Wednesday, the 3d of June, hard gales of wind at N.N.W., with abundance
+of rain; deserted this day James Mitchel, carpenter's mate, John Russel,
+armourer, William Oram, carpenter's crew, Joseph King, John Redwood,
+boatswain's yeomen, Dennis O'Lawry, John Davis, James Roach, James Stewart,
+and William Thompson, seamen. Took up, along shore, one hogshead of brandy,
+and several things that drove out of the ship, a bale of cloth, hats,
+shoes, and other necessaries. An information was given, this day, by David
+Buckley, to the captain, that there was a design to blow him up, with the
+surgeon, and lieutenant H--n of marines. The train was actually found, laid
+by the deserters, to blow 'em up the night before they went off.
+
+<p>Thursday the 4th, we finished the boats, and shot several wild geese.
+Finding murmurings and discontents among the people, we secured the oars,
+and hawled up the boats, being apprehensive they would go away with them by
+night.
+
+<p>The 5th, we went on board the ship, found several casks of wine and brandy
+between decks, most part of the planks between decks gone, and some strakes
+to wind-ward started out, part of the upper deck blown up, the stumps of
+the masts and pumps risen five feet; brought ashore one cask of flour, with
+some stuff for the use of the long-boat; and two quarter casks of wine; the
+wind at S. by E.
+
+<p>Saturday the 6th, the wind at south and fair weather, we went aboard, got
+out of the hold eight casks of flour, two casks of wine, and a quarter cask
+and three hogsheads of brandy. The lieutenant went to the Indians, but
+could not find 'em, being inform'd by the deserters that they were gone.
+
+<p>On Sunday the 7th, we went aboard the ship, got out a cask of pork, two
+barrels of flour, started one pipe of wine, and brought it ashore, with a
+quarter cask of pease, some bales of cloth, and carpenter's stores. This
+day Mr Henry Cozens, midshipman, was confin'd by the captain; the fault
+alledg'd against him was drunkenness. We learn from Nicholas Griselham,
+seaman, who was present and near the captain all the time, that as Mr
+Cozens was rowling up a steep beach a cask of pease, he found it too heavy
+for him, and left off rowling; the captain seeing this, told him he was
+drunk, Mr Cozens reply'd, With what should I get drunk, unless it be with
+water? The captain then said, You scoundrel, get more hands, and rowl the
+cask up: Cozens called for more hands, but no people came; with that the
+captain struck him with his cane. Griselham likewise says, that Cozens
+talked to the captain about one Captain Sh--lv--k; but the words he does
+not remember. But the same night I heard Mr Cozens use very unbecoming
+language to the captain, telling him, That he was come into those seas to
+pay Sh--lv--k's debts, and also insolently added, Tho' Sh--lv--k was a
+rogue, he was not a fool, and by G-d, you are both. When he spoke this, he
+was a prisoner in the store-tent, and asked the captain, If he was to be
+kept there all night? On these provocations, the captain attempted to
+strike him again, but the centinel said, he should strike no prisoner of
+his. But Cozens endeavouring to stave a cask of brandy, was soon after
+released. This day got out of the ship several chests of wax candles of all
+sizes, bales of cloth, bales of stockings, shoes, with some clocks and
+mercantile wares, with which the ship was throng'd.
+
+<p>The 8th, Mr Cummins and myself went to the deserters; we find they were
+determined to go off to the northward; the reason of their stay is the want
+of craft to go off in. They now find themselves mistaken, they believed at
+first they were on the main, but are convinced they are four or five
+leagues from it, therefore they purpose to build a punt out of the wreck of
+the ship: They live on sea-weed and shell-fish, got up one cask of beef,
+which was brought on shore with a cask of brandy, found one cask of beef on
+the rocks.
+
+<p>On Tuesday the 9th, I went with the doctor's mate to the deserters, and
+spoke to William Oram, a carpenter, and a very useful man, desiring him to
+return, with a promise of pardon from the captain: In this affair I was
+obliged to act very secretly. To-day, Mr Cozens, the midshipman, had a
+dispute with the surgeon; the latter having some business in our tent,
+which, when he had done, on his going away, Mr Cozens followed him; they
+soon fell to blows, but the surgeon had so much the advantage of the
+midshipman, that he tied his hands behind him and left him. In the evening
+the captain sent for me and the carpenter to his tent: We found the
+captain, lieutenant, purser, surgeon, and lieutenant H----n of marines.
+Here we had a consultation, which was chiefly concerning the disturbances
+among the people, as well in our tent as in the rest. Mr Cummins and I
+assured the captain, that the people in our tent were generally very well
+affected to him, and that we never would engage in any mutiny against him,
+or any other officer that would act for the publick good, and his majesty's
+service: The captain said, he had no reason to suspect us, for we were the
+only two in the ship that he put any trust or confidence in. Strict orders
+were given the centinel to keep a good look-out, and have a watchful eye on
+the provisions. Notwithstanding all this precaution and care, there was
+one-third part of a barrel of flour and half a barrel of gunpowder taken
+away that night. It is to be observed, that this day's consultation was the
+first that Captain C----p ever had with his officers; had he sometimes
+consulted them aboard, we might probably have escaped our present unhappy
+condition.
+
+<p>Wednesday the 10th, this day, serving the provisions, the boatswain's
+servant, a Portuguese boy, talking bad English, and bringing in the
+allowance of wine, the boatswain, Mr Cozens, midshipman, and the cook his
+mess-mates, with some difficulty, understood by the boy's talk, that one of
+the men had his allowance stopped; Mr Cozens went to know the reason; the
+purser and he having some dispute two or three days before, the purser told
+him, when he asked for his wine, that he was come to mutiny, and without
+any farther ceremony, discharged a pistol at his head, and would have shot
+him, had he not been prevented by the cooper's canting the pistol with his
+elbow, at the instant of its going off; the captain and lieutenant H----n,
+hearing the discharge of a pistol, the latter ran out with a firelock, then
+called the captain out of his tent, telling him that Cozens was come to
+mutiny; the captain on this jumped out, asking where the villain was,
+clapped a cock'd pistol to Mr Cozen's cheek, and precipitately shot him,
+without asking any questions; the noise of the two pistols going off
+reached our tent; it was rainy weather, and not fit for gunning, so that we
+could not imagine the meaning of it; soon after we heard Mr Cozens was shot
+by the captain: The lieutenant came to call all hands to the captain: I
+asked if we must go armed, the lieutenant answered, Yes; but, on
+consideration, I thought better to go without arms: When we came to the
+captain, he acquainted us with what he had done, and told us he was still
+our commander. The captain, purser, surgeon, lieutenants H----n, E----rs,
+and F----ng of marines, being all armed, I said to the captain. Sir, you
+see we are disarmed; on this the captain dropped his firelock to the
+ground, saying, I see you are, and have only sent for you, to let you all
+know I am still your commander, so let every man go to his tent;
+accordingly every man obeyed him. In our tent, we had eighteen of the
+stoutest fellows that belonged to the ship, and I believe the captain, and
+the gentlemen above- mentioned, have some suspicion of Mr Cummins and
+myself, believing we can sway most of the seamen on shore: But I think this
+day we have given a proof of the sincerity of our intentions, and our
+detestation of mutiny, by not appearing in arms at the report of Mr Cozens
+being shot; we walked up with the captain, where we saw Mr Cozens with his
+elbow on the ground resting his right cheek on the palm of his hand, alive,
+and to appearance sensible, but speechless; the captain ordered him to the
+sick-tent, the surgeon's mate dressed his left cheek where he was shot, and
+felt a ball about three inches under his right eye; the surgeon refused
+dressing him: This we may impute to his having lately a quarrel with Mr
+Cozens, which has been already mentioned. The shooting of Mr Cozens was a
+very unhappy affair; The person whose allowance was stopped made no
+complaint to him, he was too officious in the business, and his preceding
+behaviour, and notorious disrespectful words to the captain, might probably
+make the captain suspect his design was mutiny; tho' this we must aver,
+that Mr Cozens neither on this, or any other occasion, appeared in arms
+since the loss of the ship. However, his fate laid the foundation of a
+great deal of mischief which afterwards followed.
+
+<p>Thursday the 11th, moderate gales at W.N.W. The carpenter employed in
+laying the blocks for the long-boat. Dr O----y, of the land forces, was
+desired to assist the surgeon's mate, to take the ball out of Mr Cozens's
+cheek, which he then was inclinable to do, but in the afternoon, finding it
+not agreeable to the captain, refused to go, as we are informed by the
+surgeon's mate, who desired some surgeon might be present, to be witness of
+the operation; the ball was taken out, and for some time supposed to be
+lost, but was afterwards found.
+
+<p>This day being the 12th, the carpenter finished the blocks for lengthening
+the long-boat: In the morning he went to the captain's tent for some bolts
+for the use of the long-boat, where he saw the surgeon at the medicine-
+chest, who asked him how that unfortunate creature did, meaning Mr Cozens;
+the carpenter told him, he had not seen him to-day: The surgeon then said
+he would have visited him, but the captain would not give him leave. This
+was looked on as an act of inhumanity in the captain, and contributed very
+much to his losing the affections of the people, whose opinion was, that as
+Mr Cozens was very strong and healthy, with proper assistance he might
+recover; the people did not scruple to say, that the captain would act a
+more honourable part to discharge another pistol at him, and dispatch him
+at once, than to deny him relief, and suffer him to languish in a cold wet
+place in pain and misery.
+
+<p>On the 13th, Mr Cozens being, to all outward appearance, likely to recover,
+desired he might be removed to our tent, which was his place of residence
+before this unhappy accident. We being unwilling to disoblige the captain,
+the carpenter and myself waited on him; we told him, we were come to ask a
+favour, hoping that he would have so much mercy and compassion on the
+unhappy man who was in the sick tent, as to permit us to remove him to his
+former lodging, but the captain answer'd, No, I am so far from it, that if
+he lives, I will carry him a prisoner to the commodore, and hang him.
+
+<p>On the 14th, went aboard the ship, but could do nothing, she working so
+very much, we brought ashore the fore-top sail yard; the boat went up the
+river, brought back abundance of geese and shaggs. Wind at west.
+
+<p>Monday the 15th, hard gales of wind at west, with rain and hail; drove
+ashore three barrels of flour and abundance of small stuff out of the ship;
+took up a-long shore several pieces of pork and beef: John Anderson, a
+seaman, walking round the rocks, and reaching after a piece of beef,
+slipping his footing, was drown'd, but taken up directly, and that night
+bury'd: Turn'd the boatswain out of our tent for breeding quarrels; his
+turbulent temper was so well known to the captain, that he express'd
+himself pleas'd at our turning him out, and said he was surprized we ever
+admitted him among us.
+
+<p>On the 7th, the carpenter at work on the long-boat: The surgeon's mate,
+this day took out of Mr Cozens's cheek a ball much flatted, and a piece of
+bone, supposed to be part of the upper jaw, which was desired by Mr Cozens
+to be deliver'd to me; I receiv'd it, with the first ball mention'd to have
+been lost.
+
+<p>Thursday the 18th, the carpenter cut the long-boat in two, and lengthen'd
+her eleven feet ten inches and half by the keel.
+
+<p>Sunday the 21st, went aboard the ship, but it being dangerous going about
+any thing, by reason of her working much, and a great sea tumbling in, the
+boats were employ'd in going about the rocks in search of subsistence.
+
+<p>The 22d, the carpenter went with the boat up the bay to seek the Indians,
+but saw nothing of them; at night the boat returned, the people having shot
+abundance of wildfowl.
+
+<p>The 23d, the lieutenant went with the boat, and found the Indians just come
+from the place where they catch seal; their canoes were loaded with seal,
+sheep, and oil.
+
+<p>Wednesday the 24th, departed this life, Mr Henry Cozens, midshipman, after
+languishing fourteen days with the wound he had received in his cheek: We
+bury'd him in as decent a manner as time, place, and circumstances would
+allow. There have died sundry ways since the ship first struck, forty-five
+men; seven have deserted from us, and still continue away; remain and now
+victual'd one hundred men.
+
+<p>Thursday the 25th, the wind at W.N.W. and rainy weather; saw the Indians
+coming towards us in their canoes, but the deserters settling where they
+took their habitation, when first we saw 'em, by their rowing, we thought
+they were design'd to go there; and knowing the deserters intended to take
+one of their canoes to go over the main, we therefore launch'd the yawl and
+went off to them; there were five canoes of 'em, laden with seal, shell-
+fish, and four sheep; they brought with 'em their wives and children, so
+that in all they were about fifty in number; they hawl'd their canoes up,
+and built four wigg whims, which they cover'd with the bark of trees and
+seal-skins; we imagined by this they had an intention to settle with us;
+they are a very simple and inoffensive people, of a low stature, flat-
+nos'd, with their eyes sunk very deep in their heads; they live continually
+in smoak, and are never without a fire, even in their canoes; they have
+nothing to cover their nakedness, but a piece of an old blanket, which they
+throw over their shoulders: We always see 'em in this manner,
+notwithstanding we cloath 'em whenever they come to us. By the crosses set
+up in many parts of the land, one would think they had some notion of the
+Romish religion: We can't make 'em understand us by any speech, nor by our
+signs: We show'd 'em a looking-glass; when they saw the representation of
+themselves, they seem'd amaz'd, and shew'd a thousand antick gestures, and
+when once they beheld themselves in the looking-glass, they could hardly be
+prevail'd on to look off.
+
+<p>On Sunday the 28th, in the afternoon, about twelve of the Indian women went
+off in their canoes: We thought they were gone to get muscles, but soon saw
+'em diving, which we imagin'd was for pieces of beef or pork that come out
+of the wreck; but, when they came ashore, we found they had been only
+diving for sea-eggs. The women among those people seem to take more pains
+for the provisions of life than the men; the latter having little to do but
+to provide wood, and indulge themselves by the fire, while the women go
+every tide a fishing. To-day we kill'd two Indian sheep.
+
+<p>Monday the 29th, launch'd the yawl to go with the Indians to shew us where
+they get the muscles; but being too late for the tide, we came away without
+any: The captain sent to our tent two quarters of mutton; the carpenter
+daily at work on the long-boat. Winds variable.
+
+<p>On the 30th, the Indian women went again for sea-eggs, and brought a great
+quantity, with abundance of white maggots, about three quarters of an inch
+in length, and in circumference the bigness of a wheat-straw. These women
+keep an incredible time under water, with a small basket in their hands,
+about the size of the women's work-baskets in England, into which they put
+whatever they get in their diving. Among these people the order of nature
+seems inverted; the males are exempted from hardships and labour, and the
+women are meer slaves and drudges. This day one of our seamen died: We
+observe, the Indians are very watchful of the dead, sitting continually
+near the above-mention'd corpse, and carefully covering him, every moment
+looking on the face of the deceas'd with abundance of gravity: At the
+burial their deportment was grave and solemn, seeing the people with their
+hats off during the service, they were very attentive and observant, and
+continued so till the burial was over: They have nothing, as I have said
+before, but a blanket to cover 'em, and the boys and girls are quite naked,
+notwithstanding we felt it as cold here, as in the hardest frosts in
+England, and almost always rainy.
+
+<p>Wednesday, July the 1st, employ'd in cutting timbers in the woods for the
+long-boat; rainy weather, the wind at S.W. the Indian women diving for food
+as before.
+
+<p>Thursday the 2d, last night the store-tent was broke open, and robb'd of a
+great deal of flour.
+
+<p>Monday the 6th, hard gales of wind, with showers of rain and hail, came
+ashore from the ship one cask of beef, with several of the lower-deck
+carlings, and plank of the upper and lower-deck beams, and, what was
+reckon'd very odd, the cabin-bell came ashore, without its being fasten'd
+to any wood, or any one thing of the ship near it.
+
+<p>Tuesday the 7th, hard gales of wind, with hail, rain, and lightning: The
+Indian women went out as usual in their canoes to dive for sea-eggs, and
+brought ashore abundance of 'em; they jump overboard out of their canoe
+about a mile from shore, they take the handle of their baskets, which I
+have already described, between their teeth, diving five or six fathom
+water; their agility in diving, and their continuance under water for so
+long a time as they generally do, will be thought impossible by persons who
+have not been eye-witnesses of it; they seem as amphibious to us as seals
+and alligators, and rarely make use of any provisions but what they get out
+of the sea.
+
+<p>Wednesday the 8th, launch'd the yawl and went on board, saw several casks,
+some of meat, and some of liquor, the decks and sides abaft drove out, and
+entirely gone, the larboard-side abaft drove on shore; about two miles and
+a half from the tent a cask of liquor was found, and broach'd by the person
+who found it, which was allow'd to be a great fault; he likewise broach'd a
+cask of meat, which should have been preserv'd to carry away with us.
+
+<p>On Thursday the 9th, the Indians with their wives and children launch'd
+their canoes, and went away, 'tis believ'd they wanted provisions, such as
+seal, they are indeed never settled long in a place; it was said some of
+our people wanted to have to do with their wives, which was the reason of
+their going away so soon. To-day we saw several things drive out of the
+ship up the lagoon, as the stump of the main-mast, one of the pumps, with
+one of the gun-carriages. Wind at N.W.
+
+<p>Friday the 10th, went aboard the ship, found her broke asunder just at the
+gang-way, saw the cables out to the windward, but could not see any casks
+of liquor or provisions, went to shorter allowance of flour, one pound for
+three men per diem. Last night the tent was robbed of half a barrel of
+flour. Orders were given by the captain to watch the store-tent by night;
+all the officers, the marine included, with the mates and midshipmen, were
+oblig'd to watch, the captain and carpenter alone excus'd, the carpenter
+being every day at work on the long-boat.
+
+<p>Friday the 17th, for this week past hard gales of wind, with rain and hail
+as usual. Last Wednesday the ship parted her upper works from the lower
+deck: Launch'd the boat and went off to the wreck, but could do nothing,
+went up the bay, took a quarter cask, about three parts full of wine, saw
+the Indian dogs ashore, but no people.
+
+<p>Saturday the 18th, launched the boat, sent her to the wreck, and brought
+ashore one cask of beef, it is believed some guns were heard from the sea:
+The watch reported they have heard them two nights past. Great disturbances
+among the people. Wind at E.N.E. and frosty weather.
+
+<p>Sunday the 19th, launch'd the boat, sent her to the wreck, hook'd a cask
+supposed to be beef, but when towed ashore, we found it contained nothing
+but hatches; we took up along ashore, abundance of checque shirts in
+dozens, also caps, bales of cloth, and pieces of beef and pork.
+
+<p>Wednesday the 22d. This day began to build a house to dwell in, finding our
+stay here will be much longer than we at first expected.
+
+<p>The 23d, took up along shore several pieces of beef and pork, shirts, caps,
+frocks, trowsers, pieces of cloth, with other serviceable things, and wax
+candles of all sizes.
+
+<p>Saturday the 25th, hard showers of rain and hail, the wind at north. Shot
+several sea-gulls, geese, hawks, and other birds: The carpenter had this
+day given him by one of the people, a fine large rock crab, it being the
+first of the kind we ever saw here.
+
+<p>Sunday the 26th, moderate gales and variable winds, with rain and hail:
+Most part of our people eat a weed that grows on the rocks; it is a thin
+weed of a dark green colour, and called by the seamen, Slaugh. It is
+surprizing how the black currant trees, which are here in great plenty,
+have budded within these three days. Began thatching our new house with
+bushes: To-day we caught a fine rock-fish; this is the first fish we have
+seen alive since our being here. Observing our new town, we find there are
+no less than 18 houses in it.
+
+<p>Monday the 27th, launched the boat, went to the wreck, but found nothing;
+close weather, the wind still at north: Rose the sheets for erecting a tent
+over the long-boat to keep the men from being exposed to the continual
+rains. This day we finished the thatching of our new house.
+
+<p>Wednesday the 29th, fresh gales at N.W. with rain; sure no men ever met
+with such weather as we have in this climate: To-day we walked in the woods
+to take some notice of the trees, which we find to be very much like our
+beech in England; but the trees and bushes are in general of a soft free
+nature, and with a spicy bark.
+
+<p>Thursday the 30th, wind still at N.W. and rainy weather. This day departed
+this life, Nathaniel Robinson, the last private man of the invalids; there
+are now only two left, viz. the captain and surgeon. Being at the
+honourable Mr B----n's tent, I found him looking in Sir John Narborough's
+voyage to these seas: This book I desired the loan of, he told me it was
+Captain C----p's, and did not doubt but he would lend it me; this favour I
+requested of the captain, and it was presently granted. Carefully perusing
+this book, I conceived an opinion that our going through the Streights of
+Magellan for the coast of Brasil, would be the only way to prevent our
+throwing ourselves into the hands of a cruel, barbarous, and insulting
+enemy: Our long-boat, when finished, can be fit for no enterprize, but the
+preservation of life: As we cannot act offensively, we ought to have regard
+to our safety and liberty. This evening proposals were offered to the
+officers concerning our going through the Streights of Magellan; which at
+this time they seem to approve of.
+
+<p>Friday the 31st, hard gales at N.W. with rain: This day was taken up along
+shore, an otter just killed, but by what animal we could not tell; it was
+bleeding fresh when taken up, and proved a dainty repast. Came ashore the
+ship's beams, with several things of great value.
+
+<p>Saturday, August the 1st, hard gales at N.W. with rain and hail. This day
+put to an allowance of flour, one quarter of a pound a man per diem, and
+one pint of wine: Those who like brandy, to have half a pint in lieu of
+wine. We have now in a manner nothing to live on but what we pick'd up
+along the shore: The ship's company agree to go through the Streights of
+Magellan.
+
+<p>Sunday the 2d, this morning found the store-tent robbed of brandy, filled
+up all the ullage casks, picked up about the rocks abundance of clams, a
+shell-fish not unlike our cockles: These fish are at present the support of
+our life. The people are now very quarrelsome and discontented.
+
+<p>Monday the 3d, this day having fine weather (which is a prodigy in this
+place) launched the boat, and went about the rocks and islands on
+discovery. This day we also moved into our new house, it being a very
+commodious habitation, exceedingly well thatched; in this dwelling there
+are cabins for fourteen people, which are covered inside and out with broad
+cloth: This is a rich house, and, in some parts of the world, would
+purchase a pretty estate; there are several hundred yards of cloth about
+it, besides the curtains and linings, which are shalloon and camblet; in
+short, considering where we are, we cannot desire a better habitation. The
+people fall into disputes concerning the boat, where we are to proceed with
+her, when she is built and ready for going off. It is the opinion of the
+navigators, that going through the Streights of Magellan is the safest and
+only way to preserve life and liberty: The artists, who have worked the
+bearings and distance, are very pressing that it should be moved to the
+captain, purposing to have their reasons drawn up, and signed by all who
+are willing to go that way, and to be delivered to the captain for his
+opinion; upon this there was a paper drawn up, and as soon as the people
+heard it, they came flocking to sign first, crying all aloud for the
+Streights, seeming overjoyed, as if they were going to England directly,
+without any affliction or trouble, but there must be a great deal of
+hardships to be encountered before we arrive at our native country: This
+paper was signed by all the officers on the spot, except the captain,
+lieutenant, purser, and surgeon, and by all the seamen in general, except
+the captain's steward.
+
+<p>Tuesday the 4th, at the time of serving at the storehouse, about twelve
+o'clock, I went to the captain, with the master, carpenter, and boatswain,
+and read to him the paper; he answered he would consider of it, and give
+his answer: Here follows a copy of the paper signed:--
+
+<p>"We whose names are under-mentioned, do, upon mature consideration, as we
+have met with so happy a deliverance, think it the best, surest, and most
+safe way for the preservation of the body of people on the spot, to proceed
+through the Streights of Magellan for England. Dated at a desolate island
+on the coast of Patagonia, in the latitude of 47 deg. 00 min. south, and
+west longitude from the meridian of London 81 deg. 40 min. in the South
+Seas, this 2d day of August, 1741.
+
+<pre>
+John Bulkeley, gunner.
+John Cummins, carpenter.
+Thomas Clark, master.
+John King, boatswain.
+John Jones, master's mate.
+John Snow, ditto.
+Robt. Elliot, surgeon's mate.
+The Hon. John Byron, midshipman.
+Alexander Campbell, ditto.
+Isaac Morris, ditto.
+Thomas Maclean, cook.
+John Mooring, boatswain's mate.
+Henry Stevens, seaman.
+Benjamin Smith, seaman.
+John Montgomery, seaman.
+John Duck, seaman.
+John Hayes, seaman.
+James Butler, seaman.
+John Hart, seaman.
+James Roach, seaman.
+Job Barns, seaman.
+John Petman, seaman.
+William Callicutt, seaman.
+Richard Phipps, boatswain's mate.
+John Young, cooper.
+Richard Noble, quarter-master.
+William Rose, ditto.
+William Hervey, quarter-gunner.
+John Bosman, seaman.
+William Moore, ditto.
+Samuel Stook, ditto.
+Samuel Cooper, ditto.
+David Buckley, quarter-gunner.
+George Smith, seaman.
+Peter Deleroy, seaman.
+James M'Cawle, seaman.
+John George, seaman.
+John Shorclan, seaman.
+Richard East, seaman.
+William Lane, seaman.
+William Oram, seaman.
+Moses Lewis, seaman.
+Nicholas Griselham, seaman.
+</pre>
+
+<p>"We whose names are under-mentioned, have had sufficient reasons, from the
+above-mentioned people, to consent to go this way. Signed by
+
+<p>Captain Robert Pemberton, commander of his majesty's land forces.
+
+<p>William Fielding, lieutenant<br>
+Robert Ewers, lieutenant
+
+<p>Wednesday the 5th, this day I went with the master, carpenter, master's
+mates, and midshipmen, to the captain, to acquaint him with what was done,
+and resolved on, and farther told him, it was a duty incumbent on us to
+preserve life before any other interest. He answered, Gentlemen, I desire
+time to consider of it, and will give you my final determination; on which
+we took our leave, and came away.
+
+<p>Thursday the 6th, hard gales at W.S.W. and rainy weather. At noon we went
+with Mr Cummins to Captain P--mb--rt--n's tent, to have some farther
+conference for our future deliverance: While we were there, the captain
+sent his service to Captain C----p for a pair of pocket-pistols, his own
+property, which had been refused him on his request some time before. The
+servant was answered, by the captain's favourite and prime minister the
+steward, The captain is ill, and I can't let you have 'em. This answer not
+being satisfactory to Captain P--mb--rt--n, he sent a second time, and
+insisted on the delivery of his pistols, but was answered, they could not
+be come at before the captain was up; but a little time after it was judged
+proper to send Captain P--mb--rt--n his pistols. From Captain P--mb--rt--
+n's we went to the L----t's tent; while there, the L----t was sent to
+Captain C----p, about an hour after the carpenter and myself were sent for;
+when we came to him, he said, Gentlemen, I have maturely considered the
+contents of your paper, so far as it regards the preservation of the people
+on the spot: This paper has given me a great deal of uneasiness, insomuch
+that I have not closed my eyes till eight o'clock this morning, for
+thinking of it, but, I think, you have not weighed the thing rightly; do
+you know we are above one hundred and sixty leagues distant S.W. from the
+Streights of Magellan, with the wind against us? Then think on the distance
+to be run afterwards on the other side the Streights, with the wind always
+against us, and where no water is to be had. I answered, Sir, you say it is
+above one hundred and sixty leagues to the Streights, but let the
+navigators work it, and they will find it not above ninety leagues;
+yourself and lieutenant are undoubtedly navigators and judges, therefore
+will certainly find it as I say. Mr Cummins acquainted him, accordingly to
+his calculation, the vessel would carry a month's water, at a quart a man
+per diem; and, sir, do you consider, after running along shore to the
+northward this side the land, that we have one hundred leagues to run right
+out to sea to the island of Juan Ferdinandez, and five hundred chances to
+one if we meet the commodore there, or any of the squadron, nor do we know
+but the commodore may have shared the same fate with ourselves, or perhaps
+worse? The captain answered, It's a thousand to one if we see the commodore
+at Juan Ferdinandez; for, gentlemen, to let you into a secret, which I
+never discovered before, we shall meet him at Baldavia, his orders were
+from ---- to go there with the squadron, it being a place of little or no
+force. Mr Cummins answered, Sir, 'tis agreed, the commodore is at Baldavia,
+but we make it in our bargain, when we go from hence, that we will put
+ashore at every place when we want water, whenever the weather will permit,
+without any obstruction. The captain replied, There is no occasion for
+that, we will water at the islands, and take a vessel going along. Mr
+Cummins said, Sir, what shall we do with a vessel, without provisions, for
+ninety souls? The captain answered, We will take a vessel loaded with flour
+from Chili, there being a great many trading vessels that way, and then we
+will proceed through the Streights of Magellan. Mr Cummins said, How shall
+we take a vessel without guns, not having any but muskets, and our enemies
+know, as well as ourselves, that we have a squadron in these seas,
+therefore, undoubtedly are well armed, and keep a good look-out? The
+captain's answer to this was, What are our small arms for, but to board
+'em? The carpenter said, Sir, if a shot should take the boat under water,
+it would not be in my power to stop a leak of that kind, where the plank is
+so thin, that in some places it is not above three quarters of an inch
+thick. The captain then said, Gentlemen; I am agreeable to any thing, and
+willing to go any way, for the preservation of the people; but at the same
+time would have you consider of it, the wind being always against us on the
+other side the land, and we have above seven hundred leagues to the river
+Plate. I answered the captain, 'Tis not above five hundred and ninety
+leagues from hence to Cape St Antonio's; and, as I have before said, let
+the navigators work it, and reason take place, which is what we chiefly
+desire to be governed by: Another inducement we have to go the way proposed
+is, that we may be assured of water and provision. I allow that, says the
+captain, and we may save our own; but how do you know whether we may not
+meet enemies in the Streights? I replied to the captain, We can have no
+enemies to encounter there, but Indians in their canoes, and those we can
+master at our pleasure. The captain then seemed to countenance our opinion
+again, and said, When we come to St Julian's we shall be sure of salt in
+plenty for our provisions, without which our fowls will not keep above two
+or three days: Besides, when we come to the river Plate, we may meet with a
+prize, they not being acquainted with any English vessel like ours, with
+schooner's sails, by which means we may run up the river and take a larger
+vessel: If we fail here, we may go ashore, and get what cattle we please,
+but what business have we at the Rio Grand? We must go to the Rio Janeiro.
+I told him, we should be obliged to stop at every place along shore for
+supplies; at St Catharine's the governor will give us a certificate, so
+that we shall be known to be the people that were there in the squadron.
+The captain said, That's true, and I can get bills of credit in any part of
+Brazil; besides, the people may be separated, some in the Flota, and some
+in other ships, with less hands we may go to Barbadoes. Mr Cummins told
+him, we might venture to England with, twelve hands. Yes, you may, says the
+captain, with thirty. It is to be observed, during all this debate, the
+lieutenant spoke not a word. The carpenter asking him the reason of his
+silence in all the consultation, he answered, I'll give my opinion
+hereafter. The captain said, I knew nothing of his being acquainted with
+it, till Mr Bulkeley told me yesterday; but at the same time, Mr B----s, I
+expect, you will be the first that will sign the paper. I imagined the
+captain meant our paper, and immediately answered, with some warmth, As he
+had refused signing at first, and at the same time agreed to the proposal,
+that I had signed so close, that there was no room left for his name, and
+now it was too late for him to sign. The captain surprized me, by saying, I
+don't mean your paper; I told him, Any other, which should be contrary to
+ours, would never be signed by us. Mr Cummins said to the captain, Sir,
+'tis all owing to you that we are here; if you had consulted your officers,
+we might have avoided this misfortune, considering the condition the ship
+was in, she was not fit to come in with the land, all our men being sick,
+and not above three seamen in a watch; suppose the mast had gone by the
+board, as was every moment expected. The captain made answer, Gentlemen,
+you do not know my orders; there never were any so strict given to a
+commander before, and had I but two men living besides myself, I must, and
+was obliged to go to the first rendezvous, which was the island of Nostra
+Senhora di Socora: I was obliged to go there at all events. I made answer
+to this, Sir, if that is the case, it seems plain the thing was designed we
+should be here: But, sir, I am of opinion, notwithstanding the commodore
+had his orders from ---- to go with the squadron to Baldavia, that at the
+same time those orders were so far discretional, that if the squadron was
+disabled, care was to be taken not to endanger his majesty's ships. Yes,
+that (says the captain) was settled at St Julian's: Notwithstanding what
+has been said, gentlemen, I am agreeable to take any chance with you, and
+to go any way; but would have you consider of it, and defer your
+determination till all is ready to go off the spot. I then told the
+captain, You have known, sir, from the time you saw the proposal, that the
+people are uneasy, and the work is at a stand, and in this situation things
+will be until this affair is settled; therefore the sooner you resolve the
+better. The captain replied, I design to have a consultation among my
+officers: Have you any more objections to make? I answered, Yes, sir, one
+more; which is, when you go from hence, you are not to weigh, come to an
+anchor, or alter course, without consulting your officers. The captain
+said, Gentlemen, I was your commander till the ship parted, or as long as
+any stores or provisions were getting out of her. We told him, we had
+always taken care to obey his orders in the strictest manner, which he
+allowed us to have done; and he added, You were the officers that I placed
+my whole dependence in. We answered, Sir, we will support you with our
+lives, as long as you suffer reason to rule: And then we parted. After this
+consultation, the captain seldom came out of his tent, which occasioned.
+great disturbances among the people.
+
+<p>Friday the 7th, the wind at W.N.W. with rain. This day the navigators
+worked the bearings and distance along shore, from one place to another, to
+know the true distance: Hereupon it was agreed to proceed through the
+Streights of Magellan, according to Sir John Narborough's directions, which
+give us great encouragement to go that way. Captain P----n drawed his men
+up, and dismissed 'em again. Great uneasiness among the people.
+
+<p>Saturday the 8th, this morning went to the lieutenant, for him to acquaint
+the captain all his officers were ready to give sufficient reasons for
+going through the Streights of Magellan, desiring a consultation might be
+held in the afternoon. At three o'clock the captain sent for me and Mr
+Cummins; when we came, the master and boatswain were sent for, but they
+were gone in search of subsistence, as limpetts, muscles, &amp;c. The captain
+said, Gentlemen, I don't doubt but you have considered upon the business
+you are come about; therefore I am determined to take my fate with you, or
+where the spirit of the people leads, and shall use my best endeavours for
+their preservation; but I am afraid of meeting contrary winds, for after
+the sun has crossed the Line we must expect to meet 'em. I made answer, By
+all accounts the wind hangs from N.W. to the S.W. above three parts of the
+year, which is in our favour. Mr Cummins told him, There was fresh water to
+be got as well on one coast as the other, and if Sir John Narborough's
+treatment was so ill in a profound peace, what must we expect in a time of
+open war? The captain said, I am afraid, very bad. Then Mr Cummins spoke in
+this manner to the captain: Sir, I always took you for an honourable
+gentleman, and I believe you to be such; on your honour, sir, I beg you
+will give the true sentiments of your mind, whether through the Streights
+is not the surest and safest way to preserve our lives, notwithstanding we
+have a thousand difficulties to encounter with any way? The captain
+answered, I really think going to the northward is the safest way; for
+suppose we should be drove off to sea, when on the other side the land,
+what is to be done then? I said, Sir, it is our business to keep the shore,
+to prevent all accidents that may happen that way. Then Lieutenant B----s
+made an objection, Suppose you have the wind blowing right in, and a
+tumbling sea, as to endanger the boat, what are we to do? I made answer,
+Sir, if you remember when we were riding at St Julian's, it blowed a very
+hard gale of wind right in from the sea; yet, even then, the sea did not
+run so high as to endanger a boat riding at anchor: Another instance I
+bring you from St Catherine's, when we had such hard gales that the Trial
+lost her masts, and the Pearl separated from the squadron; yet, at that
+time, there was no sea comparable to what we have met with this side the
+land. The lieutenant allowed this to be fact. Then the captain said, I will
+allow you to have water at Port Desire; but do you consider the lengthening
+your distance, by keeping along shore, and rounding every bay, and some of
+those bays are very deep? I told him, that undoubtedly there was water all
+along the coast, and that we had no business to round the bays, but to
+steer from one head-land to the other. Then Lieutenant B----s made a second
+objection, Suppose we are forced into a bay, and shoal water? I answered,
+We should always have a boat a-head, and our draught of water will not be
+above four or five feet at most; and if we should be so unfortunate as to
+lose our boat, we must keep the lead a-going. The l----t replied, That was
+true, and there could not be a great deal of difficulty in it. This was the
+only time the l----t ever spoke in public on the affair; he always allowed,
+when absent from the captain, that going through the Streights was the best
+way; but in the captain's presence he sided with him, and was for going to
+the northward.
+
+<p>Sunday the 9th, at three this afternoon, I went with Mr Cummins, the
+master, and boatswain, as desired, to the captain, to give him our
+opinions, believing going through the Streights the surest way to preserve
+life; it was therefore agreed, That if the wind did not set in against us,
+at the sun's crossing the Line, that the captain would go that way. The
+captain asked every man's opinion, and found the people unanimous for the
+Streights of Magellan. To-day being fair weather, launched the yawl to go a
+fowling, shot several geese, ducks, shaggs, and sea-pies. Heeled the long-
+boat for planking.
+
+<p>Monday the 10th, wind at N. and N.N.W. rainy weather. Eat slaugh and sea-
+weed fryed with tallow-candles, which we picked up along shore; this we
+reckon at present exceeding good eating, having nothing to live on but a
+quarter of a pound of flour a man per day, and what we can get off the
+rocks: For many days the weather has been so bad that we have not been able
+to stir abroad, though almost starved for want of food.
+
+<p>Tuesday the 11th, hard gales at S.W. with heavy rains. This afternoon the
+people came in arms to acquaint us of the stores being robbed; they
+therefore wanted our consent for moving the stores to our tent; on which we
+desired they would desist from offering any violence: We told 'em of the
+ill consequence of mutiny, which, as we always abhorred, we took all
+imaginable care to prevent: The people, on our persuasions, instantly
+quitted their arms. The captain presently sent for me and Mr Cummins, to
+acquaint us with what had happened: He told us the purser, accidentally
+coming by, saw the prisoner Rowland Crussett, marine, crawling from the
+bushes, and from under the store tent, and found on him upwards of a day's
+flour for ninety souls, with one piece of beef under his coat, and three
+pieces more, which were concealed in the bushes, to carry off when an
+opportunity offered; and the sentry, Thomas Smith, his mess-mate, a marine,
+undoubtedly was privy to the robbery. The captain farther said, We have
+nothing to do with them; but I shall send to Captain P----n, to insist on a
+court-martial: I really think that for robbing the store-tent (which, in
+our present circumstances, is starving the whole body of people) the
+prisoners deserve death. This was not only the captain's opinion, but
+indeed the sentiments of every person present. After we parted from the
+captain, we were sent for by Captain P----n: He acquainted us, he would go
+as far as the martial law would allow him, and in conjunction with the sea-
+officers: I look (said he) on the l----t as nothing, and the c----n in the
+same light: As for you two, (meaning the gunner and carpenter) I confide
+in, and shall have regard to your opinions. When the articles of war were
+read, we found their crime did not touch life, but they were to suffer
+corporal punishment. Whilst Mr Cummins was laying open the nature of their
+guilt, and the ill consequence of lenity in the circumstances we were in, I
+proposed a way next to death, which was, if judged proper by Captain P----n
+and Captain C----p, to carry 'em off to an island where the ship parted,
+there being muscles, limpetts, and clams in abundance, and no want of
+water, and there to be left till we should be ready for sailing; and, to
+strike a terror in all for the future, that if any man should be guilty of
+the like offence, without any respect of person, he should share the same
+fate. This proposal was approved of by both the captains. At night
+Lieutenant B----n surprised us with a new kind of proposal we little dreamt
+of, which was, to have a proper place of devotion to perform divine service
+in every sabbath-day: For this sacred office, our tent was judged the most
+commodious place. The duty of public prayer had been entirely neglected on
+board, though every seaman pays fourpence per month towards the support of
+a minister; yet devotion, in so solemn a manner, is so rarely performed,
+that I know but one instance of it during the many years I have belonged to
+the navy. We believe religion to have the least share in this proposal of
+the lieutenant. If our tent should be turned into a house of prayer, and
+this project takes, we may, perhaps, in the midst of our devotion, be
+surprised, and our arms taken, from us, in order to frustrate our designs,
+and prevent our return to England through the Streights of Magellan, or any
+other way.
+
+<p>Wednesday the 12th, hard gales from S.W. to W. with heavy showers of hail
+and rain. Served out provisions today, a piece of beef for four men; some
+time past we have had but a quarter of a pound of flour per man per diem,
+and three pieces of beef: We live chiefly on muscles, limpitts, and clams,
+with saragraza and thromba; one is a green broad weed, common on the rocks
+in England; the other is a round sea-weed, so large, that a man can scarce
+grasp it; it grows in the sea, with broad leaves; this last we boil, the
+saragraza we fry in tallow; in this manner we support life: Even these
+shell-fish and weeds we get with great difficulty; for the wind, the rain,
+and coldness of the climate in this season, are so extremely severe, that a
+man will pause some time whether he shall stay in his tent and starve, or
+go out in quest of food.
+
+<p>Friday the 14th, very hard gales at W. and N.W., with showers of rain and
+hail, which beat with such violence against a man's face, that he can
+hardly withstand it; however, one of our mess-mates to-day shot three gulls
+and a hawk, which gave us a very elegant repast. This day was held a court-
+martial on the sentry who is believed confederate with the marine that
+robbed the store-tent: sentence was passed on them to receive six hundred
+lashes each: Captain C----p not thinking the punishment adequate to the
+crime, cut 'em short of their allowance, so that they have now but half the
+provisions they had before: The day following the offenders received two
+hundred lashes each, as part of their punishment. We hauled the long-boat
+higher up, for fear the sea should wash the blocks from under her. We have
+found a new way of managing the slaugh; we fry it in thin batter with
+tallow, and use it as bread.
+
+<p>Sunday the 16th, fresh gales of wind at S.W. with heavy showers of hail:
+The people generally complain of a malady in their eyes; they are in great
+pain, and can scarce see to walk about. The last tide flowed nine feet
+perpendicular; to-day we picked up shell-fish in abundance, with, pieces of
+beef and pork. The prisoners received two hundred lashes more.
+
+<p>Tuesday the 18th, this day the carpenter, who has all along been
+indefatigable in working about the long-boat, saw one of the seamen cutting
+up an anchor-stock for firewood, which had been designed for a particular
+use for the long-boat; at sight of the fellow's folly he could not contain
+himself: This affair, added to the little concern and intolerable
+indifference that appeared in the generality of the people, for some time
+impaired his understanding, and made him delirious; all possible methods
+are used to restore him, as he is the only man, who, through the assistance
+of Providence, can compleat the means of our deliverance.
+
+<p>Wednesday the 19th, the carpenter was so much recovered, that he went to
+work as usual; at night the lieutenant acquainted us, that the captain
+desired to speak with the carpenter and me to-morrow at noon, to consult
+what should be done with the two prisoners, having received but four
+hundred lashes out of the six, to which they were sentenced by a court-
+martial, the other two hundred being remitted by their own officers.
+
+<p>Thursday the 20th, we waited on the captain, who acquainted us with what
+the lieutenant had mentioned last night relating to the prisoners: We told
+him the people were very uneasy about this mitigation of the punishment
+indicted on them by a court-martial; therefore it was agreed they should
+provide for themselves as well as they could, but to have no sort of
+provisions out of the store-tent for the future.
+
+<p>Saturday, the 22d, we begun upon several contrivances to get provisions,
+such as building punts, cask-boats, leather-boats, and the like.
+
+<p>On Sunday the 23d, the store-tent was again robbed, and, on examination,
+was found a deficiency of twelve days brandy for ninety men: The
+lieutenant, myself, and carpenter, went to the captain to consult some way
+which might effectually prevent those villainous practices for the future:
+The captain desired us to make a nice inquiry into this robbery, being
+determined to inflict the severest punishment on the offenders; though it
+would give him the greatest concern if any innocent person should suffer.
+This day we confined one of the sentinels for being drunk on his post; the
+day following the boatswain gave us information of the persons who had
+robbed the tent; they were two sentinels, Smith and Butler; those very
+persons were the first who insisted that the seamen, as well as themselves,
+should watch the store-tent; their own officers, as yet, have brought them
+to no examination: We have also information that the purser holds frequent
+conversation with the rebels, contrary to all the laws of the navy,
+supplying them with liquors in abundance, to the great distress of his
+majesty's faithful subjects, who have but half a pint per day to subsist
+on. There are now great disturbances among the people concerning going to
+the northward; they believe Captain C----p never intended to return to
+England by his proposing this way, in opposition to the opinion of all the
+navigators, who have given reasons for going through the Streights of
+Magellan. There is a sort of a party rage among the people, fomented by a
+kind of bribery that has more influence on the seamen than money; there are
+some daily bought off by rum, and other strong liquors. Unless a stop is
+put to these proceedings, we shall never go off the spot.
+
+<p>Tuesday the 25th, this day felt four great earthquakes, three of which were
+very terrible; notwithstanding the violent shocks and tremblings of the
+earth, we find no ground shifted. Hard gales of wind at north, with heavy
+showers of rain.
+
+<p>Thursday the 27th, the disturbances increase among the people; we plainly
+see there is a party raised to go to the northward; we went to the
+lieutenant, and consulted with him what was to be done in the present
+exigence; myself being reckoned the projector of the scheme for going
+through the Streights, was threatened to be shot by Noble the quarter-
+master: After having some discourse with the lieutenant, he told me, If I
+would draw up a paper for the captain to sign, in order to satisfy the
+people, that he would go to the southward, and every officer to have a copy
+of it, to justify himself in England, it would be as proper a method as we
+could take. The paper was immediately drawn up in these words, viz.
+
+<p>"Whereas upon a general consultation, it has been agreed to go from this
+place through the Streights of Magellan, for the coast of Brazil, in our
+way for England: We do, notwithstanding, find the people separating into
+parties, which must consequently end in the destruction of the whole body;
+and as also there have been great robberies committed on the stores, and
+every thing is now at a stand, therefore, to prevent all future frauds and
+animosities, we are unanimously agreed to proceed as above-mentioned."
+
+<p>This paper was delivered to the lieutenant, who said that he was sure the
+captain would sign it, but in case of refusal he should be confined for
+shooting Mr Cozens, and he would take the command on himself: And, to
+prevent further disturbances, the purser, as he much conversed with the
+rebels, it is agreed by the body of officers to send him off the island,
+for acting so contrary to his duty, in contempt of the articles of war, the
+laws of his country, and the known rules of the navy. It was likewise
+agreed, that any person who engaged himself in raising parties, should be
+disarmed. By this day's proceedings, we thought the lieutenant a gentleman
+of resolution, but the words and actions of people do not always concur.
+
+<p>Friday the 28th, to-day the officers and people all appeared in arms. The
+master, boatswain, gunner, and carpenter, with Mr J----s, mate, and Mr
+C----ll, midshipman, went into the captain's tent, the lieutenant being
+with him. As soon as the officers were seated, a consultation was held
+concerning Smith and Butler robbing the store-tent, they were sentenced to
+be transported to the main, or some island. As soon as this affair was
+over, we talk'd to the captain of the uneasiness among the people, that
+there had been a long time a visible inquietude among 'em, and that we
+could not help seeing there were schemes form'd to obstruct our design of
+going to the southward. The captain answer'd, Gentlemen, it is time enough
+to think of this when we are ready to go off; have not I told you before
+that I do not care which way I go, southward or northward? I will take my
+fate with you. Everybody now expected the lieutenant to reply, especially
+after the zeal he express'd himself with the day before; but he sat
+speechless, without any regard to the welfare of the people, or to his own
+proposals. Finding he did not move in the affair, I took out the paper
+which was agreed to by the lieutenant and the rest of the officers, and
+read it to the captain, and ask'd him to sign it, which he strenuously
+oppos'd, and seem'd very much enrag'd that it should be propos'd to him.
+Upon this we dropt the matter, and began to discourse concerning the
+provisions: We thought it necessary that ten weeks subsistence should be
+secur'd to carry with us, and that the liquor should be buried under
+ground, but he gave us no answer. Finding no relief here, we went to
+Captain P----n's tent to consult with him what we should do in the present
+exigence. On our coming out from the captain we saw a flag hoisted on
+Captain P----n's tent, the captain himself seated in a chair, surrounded by
+the people. On seeing this, all the officers present at the consultation,
+except the lieutenant, went over to Captain P----n. Here it was agreed, in
+case the captain persisted to refuse signing the paper, to take the command
+from him, and to give it the lieutenant, according to the lieutenant's own
+proposal. At the same time Caplain P----n told the people he would stand by
+'em with his life, in going through the Streights of Magellan, the way
+propos'd in the paper. The people gave three cheers, crying aloud for
+England. The captain hearing the noise, got out of bed to his tent door,
+and call'd the people, enquiring what they wanted, then sent for all the
+officers: He was then told since he refused signing the paper, and had no
+regard to the safety of our provisions, the people unanimously agreed to
+take the command from him, and transfer it to the lieutenant. Hearing this,
+with an exalted voice, Captain C----p says, Who is he that will take the
+command from me? addressing himself to the lieutenant, Is it you, sir? The
+lieutenant reply'd, No, sir. The terror of the captain's aspect intimidated
+the lieutenant to that degree, that he look'd like a ghost. We left him
+with the captain, and return'd to Captain P----n's tent, to acquaint him of
+the lieutenant's refusing the command. We had not been long here before
+Captain C----p sent for us. I was the first person call'd for; at my
+entering his tent, I saw him seated on a chest, with a cock'd pistol on his
+right thigh; observing this, I desir'd Mr J----s, who was the mate he
+always rely'd on for navigation, to tell the captain I did not think proper
+to come before a cock'd pistol: Notwithstanding I was arm'd I drew back,
+altho' I had my pistol-cock'd, and there were several men near me arm'd
+with muskets. The captain's personal bravery no man doubted of, his courage
+was excessive, and made him rash and desperate; his shooting Mr Cozens was
+a fatal proof of it, he was grown more desperate by this unhappy action,
+and was observ'd since seldom to behave himself with any composure of mind.
+It is a piece of human prudence to retreat from a man in a phrenzy, because
+he who does not value his own life, has another man's in his power. I had
+no desire of falling by the hand of Captain C----p, and should be greatly
+disturb'd to be compelled, for my own preservation, to discharge a pistol
+at a gentleman against whom I never had any spleen, and who was my
+commander. When Mr J----s acquainted him with what I desired him, the
+captain threw his pistol aside, and came out of his tent; he told the
+people he would go with them to the southward; he desired to know their
+grievances, and he would redress them: They all call'd out for their sea-
+store of provisions to be secur'd, and the rest equally divided. Here the
+captain shew'd all the conduct and courage imaginable; he was a single man
+against a multitude, all of 'em dissatisfy'd with him, and all of 'em in
+arms: He told 'em the ill consequence of sharing the provisions, that it
+was living to-day and starving to-morrow; but the people were not to be
+satisfy'd, the officers had now no authority over 'em, and they were some
+time deaf to their persuasions; nay, it was with difficulty that they could
+dissuade 'em from pulling down the store-tent, and taking away the
+provisions by force; they remov'd the provisions out of the store-tent,
+then fell to digging a hole to bury the brandy; the sea-store to be
+secur'd, the remainder to be immediately shar'd. Had this been comply'd
+with, the consequences might have been very terrible; however, to pacify
+'em in some shape, it was agreed, that every man should have a pint of
+brandy per day, which, by calculation, would last 'em three weeks. On this
+they seem'd very easy, and went to their respective tents. The captain told
+his officers that he would act nothing contrary to what was agreed on for
+the welfare and safety of the community. Finding the captain in a temper of
+mind to hearken to reason, I said to him, sir, I think it my duty to inform
+you that I am not the person whom you imagine to be the principal in this
+affair. The captain answer'd, how can I think otherwise? I reply'd, Sir,
+the paper I read to you was your lieutenant's projection: There sits the
+gentleman, let him disown it if he can. The captain turning himself to the
+lieutenant, says, Mr Bulkeley has honestly clear'd himself. We then drank a
+glass of wine, and took our leaves. At night the captain sent for Mr
+Cummins and me to sup with him; we were the only officers present with him:
+When I was seated, I said, Sir, I have my character at stake, from drawing
+back from your cock'd pistol; had I advanc'd, one of us must have dropt.
+The captain answer'd, Bulkeley, I do assure you the pistol was not design'd
+for you, but for another; for I knew the whole before. We then talk'd of
+indifferent things, and spent the evening in a very affable manner.
+
+<p>Saturday the 29th, came here five Indian canoes, loaden with muscles; the
+men, women, and children, were about fifty: These Indians had never been
+with us before, they are not so generous and good-natur'd as our friends I
+have already mentioned; they were so mercenary, that they would not part
+with a single muscle without something in exchange; their stay was but
+short with us, for the next morning they launch'd their canoes, and went
+off.
+
+<p>Tuesday, September the 1st, the carpenter was shot in the thigh with
+several large pewter slugs by the captain's cook, but he being at a great
+distance, the slugs did not enter his skin: Whether this was design'd, or
+accidental, we don't know; however, we thought it proper to disarm him.
+
+<p>Wednesday the 2d, wind at N. and N. by W. with rain. This day we were
+inform'd that three of the deserters, viz. James Mitchel, carpenter's mate,
+Joseph King and Owen Thomson, seamen, were gone over to the main in a punt
+of their own building; the others were here yesterday, and I believe would
+be gladly received again, but am of opinion there are few voices in their
+favour.
+
+<p>Friday the 4th, some disorders among the people about watching the
+provisions, some taking all opportunities to rob the stores. Our living now
+is very hard, shell-fish are very scarce, and difficult to be had; the sea-
+weeds are our greatest support; we have found a sort of sea-weed which we
+call dulse, it is a narrow weed, growing on rocks in the sea, which, when
+boil'd about two hours, thickens the water like flour; this we esteem a
+good and wholsome food.
+
+<p>Sunday the 6th, last night the store-tent was robbed of brandy and flour:
+The people on hearing this were greatly enrag'd, and insisted on searching
+the marines tents; on search they found four bottles of brandy, and four
+small parcels of flour. The captain sent for the lieutenant, master gunner,
+carpenter, and surgeon, with lieutenants H----n, E----s, and F----g, of the
+army, Captain Pemberton was also sent for, but was so ill that he could not
+be present, but desir'd all might pass according to the judgment of the
+above-mention'd officers. A consultation was held, five of the accused
+marines did not appear, dreading the punishment due to their crime, they
+march'd off to the deserters: Four more, who staid to be try'd, receiv'd
+sentence, on the first opportunity, to carry them off to the main, and
+there to shift for themselves with the former deserters. The seamen
+insisted on a pint of brandy each man per diem, which was agreed on. The
+provisions being found were put into the store.
+
+<p>Monday the 7th, I was invited to a dog-feast at Mr J----s's tent: There
+were present at this entertainment, the lieutenant, the Honourable John
+Byron, Mr Cummins, Mr Campbell, Mr Young, Lieutenants Ewers and Fielding,
+and Dr Oakley of the army. It was exceeding good eating, we thought no
+English mutton preferable to it.
+
+<p>Tuesday the 8th, in the afternoon, William Harvey, quarter gunner, came to
+our tent with a paper sign'd by seven people; the contents as follows, viz.
+
+<p>
+"These are to acquaint you, the gentlemen, officers, and seamen of the ship
+Wager, that, for the easement of the boat now building, we do agree to go
+in the yawl, after she is fitted up, with allowing us our share of
+provisions, and other conveniences, to go in her to the southward, through
+the Streights of Magellan, for the coast of Brazil.
+
+<pre>
+David Buckley, quarter gunner.
+William Harvey, ditto.
+Rich. Noble, quarter-master.
+William Moor, captain's cook.
+William Rose, quarter-master.
+John Hayes, seaman.
+John Bosman, ditto."
+</pre>
+
+<p>The next day, the above-mention'd added one more to their number, viz.
+Peter Plastow, captain's steward: he came to acquaint us he was willing to
+go with them, and hoped we would give our consent; we told him we had
+nothing to do with it, therefore he must apply to the captain.
+
+<p>Thursday the 10th, hard gales at W.N.W., with rain and hail. The captain
+sent for the lieutenant, master, myself, the carpenter, and boatswain; when
+we were all met, the captain ask'd us if Plastow had mention'd any thing to
+us about going off in the yawl. We told him he had. Plastow being sent for,
+the captain said, Peter, I hear you are for going in the boat? He answer'd,
+Yes, sir, I will take my chance, for I want to get to England. The captain
+bade him be gone for a villain, and said no more. This Plastow was a mighty
+favourite with the captain, and had often been admitted to his
+conversation: He above all men ought to have stood steadfast to him,
+because the captain regarded him above the whole body of people, and hath
+been heard to say as much. It was this day agreed that the sentence put off
+on the 6th should be executed the first opportunity, without any delay, and
+that no boat should go off from hence before all was ready, believing some
+have a design to go to the northward.
+
+<p>Friday the 11th, wind at N.N.W. The people very uneasy, scarce any work
+done for this week past; every thing at a stand, we have now among us no
+command, order, or discipline, add to our uneasiness the uncomfortableness
+of the climate; we have been inhabitants of this island sixteen weeks, and
+have not seen ten fair days; the murmurings of the people, the scarcity of
+provision, and the severity of the weather, would really make a man weary
+of life.
+
+<p>Monday the 14th, last night very hard gales at N.W. and W.N.W., with large
+showers of hail, with thunder. The wind to-day is much abated. As to the
+article of provisions, nothing comes amiss, we eat dogs, rats, and, in
+short, every thing we can come at.
+
+<p>Friday the 18th, Dennis O'Lary, and John Redwood, seamen, with six marines,
+were put off to the main, according to their sentence, it being a fine
+summer's day. This day the lieutenant bringing a pair of pistols to the
+carpenter, and complaining they were in bad order, did not imagine they
+were loaded, snapping the first it miss'd fire, the second went off, but
+providentially did no harm, tho' the lieutenant had then a crowd of people
+about him.
+
+<p>Sunday the 20th, little wind, and clear weather. Launch'd the barge, and
+went off to the wreck; we took up four casks of beef, with a cask of pease,
+which was stay'd, we serv'd out to each man five pieces of beef, and pease
+to suck as would have 'em, but there were none to take 'em, having now
+plenty of meat, our stomachs are become nice and dainty.
+
+<p>Wednesday, the 23d, the people went to the captain with a two gallon cagg,
+and ask'd it full of wine. The captain refus'd 'em, but apprehending that
+they would make no ceremony of filling it without leave, and carrying it
+off by force, he thought proper to order it to be fill'd. They brought it
+to the long-boat, and drank it in her hold. Stept the long-boat's mast
+forward. The people very much disorder'd in liquor, and very quarrelsome.
+
+<p>Thursday the 24th, I was sent on a week's cruize in the barge, the officers
+with me were Mr Jones, the mate, and the Honourable Mr B----n, midshipman,
+and Mr Harvey the purser, who was a good draughtsman; we went in order to
+discover the coast to the southward, for the safety of the long-boat; we
+were informed on our return, that the people in our absence went to the
+captain and got two gallons of wine which they mixed with their half pints
+of brandy, they got all drunk and mad, but no great mischief ensued. Six
+Indian canoes likewise came in our absence loaden with men, women, and
+children, and brought with them clams out of the shells strung on lines.
+The Indian women dived for muscles, and brought them ashore in abundance,
+the men went to the fresh water river, and caught several fish like our
+English mullets. The people bought dogs of the Indians, which they kill'd
+and eat, esteeming the flesh very good food. The next day the Indians went
+out and caught a vast quantity of fish out of a pond, where they sent their
+dogs to hunt; the dogs dived, and drove the fish ashore in great numbers to
+one part of the pond, as if they had been drawn in a seyne; the Indians
+sold the fish to the people. This method of catching fish, is, I believe,
+unknown any where else, and was very surprising; and, what is also very
+strange, after the Indians went away, we hauled the seyne over the pond,
+and could never get a fish.
+
+<p>Monday the 28th, returned with the barge; the first evening we were out we
+had a good harbour for the barge, which we put into; the first animal we
+saw was a fine large bitch big with puppies, we kill'd her, we then roasted
+one side and boiled the other, were exceedingly well pleased with our fare,
+supped heartily, and slept well. The next morning we got up at day-break,
+and proceeded on our cruize, finding all along the coast to be very
+dangerous; at evening put into a place of very good shelter for the barge:
+Here we found the Indians had been very lately, the shore being covered
+with the offals of seal; in an hour's time we killed ten wild fawn, we
+roasted three geese and two ducks, the rest we put into a sea pye, so that
+we fared most elegantly; got up at day-light next morning, but seeing the
+weather hazy and dirty, thought it not proper to put out with the barge,
+fearing we should not get a harbour before night; we took a walk five miles
+in the country cross the land to the southward, but could not see any
+shelter for the boat, being then twelve leagues from the place we came
+from, so we returned back in the evening, and got into a fine sandy bay; I
+think it as good a harbour for shipping as any I ever saw: Coming into this
+bay, saw the southmost land, which we had seen before, bearing about S.S.W.
+right over an inlet of land, above two miles. After landing, lived as we
+did last night; in the morning we walked over, where we found a deep bay,
+it being eighteen leagues deep, and twelve leagues broad; here we had a
+very good prospect of the coast; we found here the green pease that Sir
+John Narborough mentions in his book.
+
+<p>Saturday, the 3d of October, after our return from the cruize, the
+lieutenant, the master, myself, the boatswain, and Mr J----s the mate, went
+to the captain, to acquaint him how forward the boat was, and to consult
+some measures to be observ'd on board the boat, to prevent mutiny; he
+desir'd a day or two to consider of it.
+
+<p>On Monday, the 5th, the carpenter sent his case bottle, as usual, to the
+captain, to be filled with wine, but it was sent back empty, with this
+answer, I will give him none. This sudden change of the captain's behaviour
+to the carpenter, proceeded from some words which the latter dropt, and
+were carried to the captain; the words the carpenter spoke were to this
+purport, that he was not to be led by favour or affection, nor to be
+biassed by a bottle of brandy. To-day we heeled the long-boat, and caulked
+the star-board side, paid her bottom with wax, tallow, and soap that came
+out of the ship.
+
+<p>Tuesday the 6th, hard gales at N.W. and N., with rain: This morning the
+lieutenant acquainted us of the captain's resolution, which was to be
+captain as before, and to be governed by the rules of the navy, and to
+stand or fall by them; it was objected in the present situation, the rules
+of the navy are not sufficient to direct us, several rules being requisite
+in our circumstances which are not mention'd there, that the whole body of
+officers and people are determin'd not to be govern'd by those rules at
+present. This objection was started, not from a disrespect to those rules,
+but we imagin'd, if Captain C----p was restor'd to the absolute command he
+had before the loss of the Wager, that he would proceed again on the same
+principles, never on any exigency consult his officers, but act
+arbitrarily, according to his humour and confidence of superior knowledge;
+while he acts with reason, we will support his command with our lives, but
+some restriction is necessary for our own preservation. We think him a
+gentleman worthy to have a limited command, but too dangerous a person to
+be trusted with an absolute one. This afternoon the people insisted to be
+serv'd brandy out of the casks that were buried under ground, accordingly
+they were serv'd half a pint each man. Got the long-boat upright.
+
+<p>Thursday the 18th, this day the master went to the captain concerning ten
+half barrels of powder more than can be carried off, which will make good
+water casks for the boats; the captain told him not to start the powder, or
+destroy any thing, without his orders, and said, he must have time, to
+consider of it. In the afternoon Captain P--m-b--rt--n, of the land forces,
+came on the beach and desired the assistance of the seamen to take Captain
+C----p a prisoner, for the death of Mr Cozens, the midshipman, telling us,
+he should be call'd to an account, if he did not. This evening the
+carpenter went up to the hill-tent, so called from its situation; the
+people were shooting balls at marks, some of 'em were firing in vollies,
+without shot or sluggs; one of the men on the beach fir'd at the tent while
+the carpenter was in it, who was standing with a book in his hand; there
+was a piece of beef hung close at his cheek, the ball went through the tent
+and the beef, but the carpenter receiv'd no damage. To-day I overhaul'd the
+powder, and told the lieutenant that I had twenty-three half barrels in
+store, and that we could not carry off in the vessel above six half
+barrels, therefore proposed to start the overplus into the sea, and make
+water casks of the half barrels, they being very proper for that purpose. I
+desired him to acquaint the captain with my intention; that since he had no
+regard for the publick good, or any thing that tended to promoting it, the
+carpenter and I had determin'd never to go near him again. The lieutenant
+declin'd going, fearing the captain would murther him, but he sent the
+master to him, to let him know the necessity of starting the powder; the
+captain's answer to the master was, I desire you will not destroy any one
+thing without my orders. We now are convinc'd the captain hath no intention
+of going to the southward, notwithstanding he had lately given his word and
+honour that he would; therefore Captain P--mb--r-t--n, in order to put an
+end to all future obstructions, demanded our assistance to make him a
+prisoner for the shooting Mr Cozens, intending to carry him as such to
+England; at the same time to confine Lieutenant H----n with him, which was
+readily agreed to by the whole body. It was reckon'd dangerous to suffer
+the captain any longer to enjoy liberty, therefore the lieutenant, gunner,
+carpenter, and Mr J----s the mate, resolv'd next morning to surprize him in
+his bed.
+
+<p>Friday the 9th, this morning went in a body and surpriz'd the captain in
+bed, disarm'd him, and took every thing out of his tent. The captain said
+to the seamen, What are you about? where are my officers? at which the
+master, gunner, carpenter, and boatswain, went in. The captain said,
+Gentlemen, do you know what you have done, or are about? He was answer'd,
+Yes, sir; our assistance was demanded by Captain P----n, to secure you as a
+prisoner for the death of Mr Cozens; and as we are subjects of Great
+Britain, we are oblig'd to take you as such to England. The captain said,
+Gentlemen, Captain P----n has nothing to do with me, I am your commander
+still, I will shew you my instructions, which he did to the people, on this
+we came out. He then call'd his officers a second time, and said, What is
+this for? He was answer'd as before, that assistance was demanded by
+Captain P----n to take him prisoner for the death of Mr Cozens. He still
+insisted, Captain P----n has no business with me, I could not think you
+would serve me so. It was told him, Sir, it is your own fault, you have
+given yourself no manner of concern for the publick good, on our going from
+hence, but have acted quite the reverse, or else been so careless and
+indifferent about it, as if we had no commander, and if other persons had
+given themselves no more trouble and concern than you have, we should not
+be ready to go from hence as long as provisions lasted. The captain said,
+Very well, gentlemen, you have caught me napping; I do not see any of you
+in liquor, you are a parcel of brave fellows, but my officers are
+scoundrels: Then turning himself to me, he said, Gunner, where's my
+lieutenant? did not he head you? I told him, No, sir, but was here to see
+it executed, and is here now. One of you, says the captain, call Mr B----s.
+When Mr B----s came, he said, What is all this for, sir? Sir, it is Captain
+P----n's order. Captain P----n hath no business with me, and you will
+answer for it hereafter, if I do not live to see England, I hope some of my
+friends will. On this the lieutenant left him. The captain then address'd
+himself to the seamen, saying, My lads, I do not blame you, but it is the
+villainy of my officers, which they will answer for hereafter. He then
+call'd Mr B----s again, and said, Well, sir, what do you design to do by
+me? The lieutenant answer'd, Sir, your officers have design'd the purser's
+tent for you. Hum! I should be obliged to the gentlemen, if they would let
+me stay in my own tent. The lieutenant came to acquaint the officers of the
+captain's request, but they judg'd it inconvenient, as Mr H----n's tent
+join'd the purser's, one guard might serve 'em both; accordingly all his
+things were mov'd to the purser's tent: As he was coming along, he said,
+Gentlemen, you must excuse my not pulling my hat off, my hands are
+confin'd. Well, Captain B----s you will be call'd to an account for this
+hereafter. The boatswain, after the captain's confinement, most barbarously
+insulted him, reproaching him with striking him, saying, Then it was your
+time, but now, G--d d--n you, it is mine; The captain made no reply but
+this, You are a scoundrel for using a gentleman ill when he is a prisoner.
+When the captain was a prisoner, he declar'd, he never intended to go to
+the southward, having more honour than to turn his back on his enemies; and
+farther, he said, Gentlemen, I do not want to go off in any of your craft,
+for I never design'd to go for England, and would rather cause to be shot
+by you; there is not a single man on the beach dare engage me, but this is
+what I fear'd.
+
+<p>It is very odd, that Captain C----p should now declare be never intended to
+go to the southward, when he publickly gave his word and honour he would go
+that way, or any way where the spirit of the people led: But he afterwards
+told his officers, he knew he had a severe trial to go through, if ever he
+came to England; and as for those who liv'd to return to their country, the
+only favour he requested from them, was to declare the truth, without
+favour or prejudice, and this we promis'd faithfully to do: His words, in
+this respect, were as much regarded by us as the words of a dying man, and
+have been most punctually observ'd.
+
+<p>Saturday the 10th, little wind at N. and N.W. Getting all ready for going
+off this afternoon, the captain sent for the lieutenant and me, desiring us
+both to go to Captain P----n, to know what he intended to do with him. We
+accordingly came, and both promised to go directly, and bring him his
+answer. When we came out, went to the lieutenant's tent; from thence I
+expected, and made no doubt but he would go to Captain P----n's: But when I
+ask'd him he refused, which very much surprised me. I thought it very
+ungenerous to trifle with Captain C----p, or any gentleman in his unhappy
+situation; therefore went alone to Captain Pemberton. When I delivered him
+Captain C----p's message the answer was, I design, and must carry him
+prisoner to England. I return'd, and acquainted Captain C----p with Captain
+P----n's answer: He ask'd me then if the lieutenant was with me. I told
+him, no; and I believe did not design it. He said, Mr Bulkeley, I am very
+much obliged to you, and could not think the lieutenant would use me thus.
+In the evening the lieutenant and I were sent for again: The captain said
+to the lieutenant, Sir, have you been with Captain P----n? He answer'd, No,
+sir. I thought, sir, you promised me you would: However, I have his answer
+from Mr Bulkeley; I am to be carried a prisoner to England. Gentlemen, I
+shall never live to see England, but die by inches in the voyage; and it is
+surprising to me to think what you can expect by going to the southward,
+where there are ten thousand difficulties to be encounter'd with: I am
+sorry so many brave fellows should be led to go where they are not
+acquainted, when, by going to the northward, there is the island of Chili,
+not above ninety leagues, where we need not fear taking prizes, and may
+have a chance to see the commodore. I made answer, Sir, you have said that
+we shall be call'd to an account for this in England: I must tell you, for
+my part, had I been guilty of any crime, and was sure of being hang'd for
+it in England, I would make it my choice to go there, sooner than to the
+northward: Have not you given your word and honour to go to the southward?
+It is true there is a chance in going to the northward, by delivering us
+from this unhappy situation of life to a worse, viz. a Spanish prison. The
+captain said no more but this, Gentlemen, I wish you well and safe to
+England.
+
+<p>Sunday the 11th, this morning the captain sent for me, and told me he had
+rather be shot than carried off a prisoner, and that he would not go off
+with us; therefore desired me to ask the people to suffer him to remain on
+the island: The people readily agreed to his request, and also consented to
+leave him all things needful for his support, as much as could be spared.
+Lieutenant H----n and the surgeon chose to stay with him. We offer'd him
+also the barge and yawl, if he could procure men to go with him. The
+question was proposed before the whole body, but they all cry'd aloud for
+England, and let him stay and be d----'d; does he want to carry us to a
+prison? There is not a man will go. The captain being deprived of his
+command in the manner above mentioned, and for the reasons already given,
+it was resolved to draw some articles to be sign'd for the good of the
+community, and to give the lieutenant a limited command. The paper was
+drawn up in this manner:--
+
+<p>
+"Whereas Captain David C----p, our commander in his majesty's ship the
+Wager, never consulted any of his officers for the safety and preservation
+of the said ship, and his majesty's subjects thereto belonging, but several
+times, since the unhappy loss of the said ship, he has been solicited in
+the most dutiful manner, promising him at the same time to support his
+command with our lives, desiring no more than to go off heart in hand from
+this place to the southward, which he gave his word and honour to do; and
+being almost ready for sailing, did apply to him some few days past, to
+draw up some proper articles, in order to suppress mutiny, and other
+material things, which were thought necessary to be agreed to before we
+went off; but he, in the most scornful manner, hath rejected every thing
+proposed for the public good, and as he is now a prisoner, and the command
+given to the lieutenant, upon his approbation of the following articles:
+
+<p>"First, As we have no conveniency for dressing provisions, on board the
+vessel, for a third part of the number to be carried off the spot,
+therefore this day served out to every man and boy twelve days' provision,
+for them to dress before we go off; and also it is agreed, that whoever is
+guilty of defrauding another of any part of his allowance, on sufficient
+proof thereof, the person found guilty (without any respect of person)
+shall be put on shore at the first convenient place, and left there.
+
+<p>"Secondly, In regard to the boats going off with us, we think proper to
+allow one week's provision for each man appointed to go in them, in order
+to prevent separation from each other, which would be of the worst
+consequence of any thing that can happen to us: To prevent which, we do
+agree, that when under way they shall not separate, but always keep within
+musket-shot, and on no pretence or excuse whatsoever go beyond that reach.
+The officer, or any other person, that shall attempt a separation, or
+exceed the above-mention'd bounds, shall, on proof, be put on shore, and
+left behind.
+
+<p>"Thirdly, It is agreed, in order to suppress mutiny, and prevent broils and
+quarrels on board the vessel, that no man shall threaten the life of
+another, or offer violence in any shape, the offender, without any respect
+of station or quality, being found guilty, shall be put on shore, and left
+behind.
+
+<p>"Fourthly, We do agree, whatever fowl, fish, or necessaries of life, we
+shall happen to meet with on our passage, the same shall be divided among
+the whole, and if Captain David C----p shall, be put on board a prisoner,
+it shall not be in the lieutenant's power to release him.
+
+<p>"The aforesaid articles were agreed to, and sign'd by the undermention'd,
+
+<pre>
+Robert Beans, lieutenant
+Thomas Clark, master
+John King, boatswain
+John Bulkeley, gunner
+John Cummins, carpenter
+Thomas Harvey, purser
+Robert Elliot, surgeon's mate
+John Jones, master's mate
+John Snow, ditto
+The Hon. John Byron, midshipman
+Alexander Campbell, ditto
+Isaac Morris, ditto
+Thomas Maclean, cook
+Richard Phipps, boatswain's mate
+John Mooring, ditto
+Matthew Langley, gunner's mate
+Guy Broadwater, coxswain
+Samuel Stook, seaman
+Joseph Clinch, ditto
+John Duck, ditto
+Peter Plastow, captain's steward
+John Pitman, butcher
+David Buckley, quarter-gunner
+Richard Noble, quarter-master
+William Moore, captain's cook
+George Smith, seaman
+Benjamin Smith, ditto
+William Oram, carpenter's mate
+John Hart, joiner
+John Bosman, seaman
+William Harvey, quarter-gunner
+Richard East, seaman
+Samuel Cooper, ditto
+Job Barns, ditto
+Joseph Butler, ditto
+William Rose, quarter-master
+John Shoreham, seaman
+John Hayes, ditto
+Henry Stephens, ditto
+William Callicutt, ditto
+John Russel, armourer
+James MacCawle, seaman
+William Lane, ditto
+James Roach, ditto
+John George, ditto
+John Young, cooper
+Moses Lewis, gunner's mate
+Nicholas Griselham, seaman."
+</pre>
+
+<p>Monday the 12th, at day-light, launch'd the long-boat, and gave her the
+name of the Speedwell, (which God preserved to deliver us) we got all the
+provision on board, and other necessaries. The captain sent for the
+lieutenant, myself, and the carpenter, desiring us to leave him what could
+be spared, and to send to the deserters to know if they will go in the yawl
+to the northward, we promised to grant him his request. To-day every body
+got on board. The captain, surgeon, and Mr H----n, had their share of
+provisions equal with us.
+
+<p>Tuesday the 13th, we sent the barge to the deserters, with Mr S----w, the
+mate, to know if they were willing to tarry, and go with the captain to the
+northward, to acquaint them what provision and necessaries should be
+allow'd 'em: They readily agreed to tarry. On the return of the boat,
+deliver'd to the captain the share of provision for the deserters, and
+sundry necessaries, as under-mentioned, viz.
+
+<p>Six hand-grenadoes, five half barrels of powder, two caggs of musket-balls,
+Lieutenant H----n's pistols and gun, one pair of pistols for the captain,
+twelve musket-flints, six pistol-flints, sundry carpenter's tools, half a
+pint of sweet oil, two swords of the captain's own, five muskets, twelve
+pistol balls, one bible, one azimuth compass, one quadrant, and one
+Gunter's scale.
+
+<p>Provision deliver'd to the captain, surgeon, and Lieutenant K----n, with
+eight deserters, which last are to be at half allowance of the quantity
+made out to the people, which make the whole number seven at whole
+allowance.
+
+<p>To the captain, surgeon, and Lieutenant H----n, six pieces of beef, six
+pieces of pork, and ninety pound of flour; for the deserters, eight pieces
+of beef, eight pieces of pork, one hundred weight of flour.
+
+<p>As soon as the above things were delivered, we got ready for sailing. I
+went and took my leave of the captain; he repeated his injunction, that at
+my return to England I would impartially relate all proceedings: He spoke
+to me in the most tender and affectionate manner, and, as a token of his
+friendship and regard for me, desired me to accept of a suit of his best
+wearing apparel: At parting he gave me his hand with a great deal of
+chearfulness, wishing me well and safe to England. This was the last time I
+ever saw the unfortunate Captain C----p. However, we hope to see him again
+in England, that Mr Cummins and myself may be freed from some heavy
+imputations to our prejudice, laid on us by the gentleman who succeeded him
+in command, and who, having an opportunity of arriving before us in
+England, not only in the places he touched at abroad, but at home, has
+blackened us with the greatest calumnies, and by an imperfect narrative,
+has not only traduced us, but made the whole affair so dark and mystical,
+that till the captain's arrival the l----s of the a----y will not decide
+for or against us. But if that unfortunate captain never returns to his
+country, let us do so much justice to his character, to declare that he was
+a gentleman possessed of many virtues: He was an excellent seaman himself,
+and loved a seaman; as for personal bravery, no man, had a larger share of
+it; even when a prisoner he preserved the dignity of a commander, no
+misfortune could dispirit or deject him, and fear was a weakness he was
+entirely a stranger to; the loss of the ship was the loss of him; he knew
+how to govern while he was a commander on board, but when things were
+brought to confusion and disorder, he thought to establish his command
+ashore by his courage, and to suppress the least insult on his authority on
+the first occasion; an instance of this was seen on the boatswain's first
+appearing ashore--shooting Mr Cozens, and treating him in the manner he did
+after his confinement, was highly resented by the people, who soon got the
+power in their own hands; the officers only had the name, and they were
+often compelled, for the preservation of their lives, to comply sometimes
+with their most unreasonable demands; and it is a miracle, amidst the
+wildness and distraction of the people, that there was no more bloodshed.
+
+<p>At eleven in the forenoon, the whole body of people embarked, to the number
+of eighty-one souls, fifty-nine on board the vessel, on board the cutter
+twelve, and in the barge ten. At noon got under sail, the wind at N.W. by
+W. The captain, surgeon, and Mr H----n, being on the shore side, we gave
+them three cheers, which they returned. Coming out of Wager's Bay, split
+the foresail, and very narrowly escaped the rocks; with the assistance of
+the barge and our own oars, tow'd her clear, and bore away into a large
+sandy bay, on the south side of the lagoon, which we called by the name of
+the Speedwell Bay. At four in the afternoon, anchored in ten fathom fine
+sand, the barge and cutter went ashore, there not being room on board the
+boat to lodge the people.
+
+<p>Wednesday the 14th, fresh gales at S.W. and W., with rain. At three this
+afternoon, being fair weather, weigh'd, and came to sail to take a cruize
+up the lagoon, to try the vessel, it being smooth water she work'd very
+well; after three or four trips returned, and anchor'd where we came from.
+
+<p>"These are to certify the right honourable the lords commissioners for
+executing the office of lord high admiral of Great Britain, That we, whose
+names are under-mentioned, do beg leave to acquaint your lordships that
+Captain David Cheap, our late commander in his majesty's ship Wager, having
+publicly declared, that he will never go off this spot, at his own request
+desires to be left behind; but Captain Pemberton, of his majesty's land
+forces, having confined him a prisoner for the death of Mr Henry Cozens,
+midshipman, with Lieutenant Hamilton, for breaking his confinement, did
+insist on delivering them up on the beach to the charge of Lieutenant
+Beans, but he, with his officers and people, consulting the ill
+consequences that might attend carrying two prisoners off in so small a
+vessel, and for so long and tedious a passage as we are likely to have, and
+that they might have opportunities of acting such things in secret as may
+prove destructive to the whole body; and also in regard to the chief
+article of life, as the greatest part of the people must be obliged at
+every place we stop, to go on shore in search of provisions, and there
+being now no less than eighty-one souls in this small vessel, which we hope
+to be delivered in, we therefore, to prevent any difficulties to be added
+to the unforeseen we have to encounter with, think proper to agree, and in
+order to prevent murder, to comply with Captain David Cheap's request: The
+surgeon also begs leave to be left with him. Dated on board the Speedwell
+schooner, in Cheap's Bay, this 14th day of October, 1741.
+
+<pre>
+Robert Beans, lieutenant
+Thomas Clark, master
+John King, boatswain
+John Bulkeley, gunner
+John Cummins, master
+Robert Elliot, surgeon's mate
+John Jones, master's mate
+John Snow, ditto
+Captain Pemberton, of his majesty's land forces
+Vincent Oakley, surgeon of ditto."
+</pre>
+
+<p>Thursday the 15th, this morning it being calm, made a signal for the boats
+to come off, by firing five muskets. At day-light came to sail, with the
+wind at W. by N. It blowing hard, and a great swell, the vessel would not
+work, therefore we were obliged to put into a small bay, lying S.W. of
+Harvey's Bay, where we had very good shelter, there being a large ledge of
+rocks without us, which broke the sea off. At eleven we sent the barge to
+Cheap's Bay, for what canvass could be found serviceable, having left a
+sufficient quantity behind to supply us with sails, in case we wanted 'em.
+Went in the barge the Hon. John Byron, at his own request, Alexander
+Campbell, midshipman; William Harvey, quarter-gunner; David Buckley, ditto;
+William Rose, quarter-master; Richard Noble, ditto; Peter Plastow,
+captain's steward; Joseph Clinch, seaman, and Rowland Crusset, marine. This
+afternoon the carpenter went ashore in the cutter, with several of the
+people, to look for provender. Shot several geese, and other sea-fowl.
+Rainy weather. Wind W.N.W.
+
+<p>Friday the 16th, continual rain, and hard gales all night at S.W. This
+morning the carpenter came on board, and acquainted us that he saw an
+anchor of seven feet in the shank, the palm of each arm filed off just
+above the crown: This anchor we suppose to have belonged to some small
+vessel wreck'd on the coast. The cutter brought off abundance of shell-fish
+ready dress'd for the people.
+
+<p>Sunday, the 18th, at noon, the cutter came off, and brought aboard plenty
+of shell-fish and greens. The Hon. Mr B----n, Mr C----l, and three of the
+barge's crew, came from where the barge lay. Mr B----n came aboard, and
+inform'd us of the barge being safe in the bay where we left her, and only
+waited the opportunity of weather to come round with her: At the same time
+he desired to know if we would give him, and those who would stay with
+Captain C----p, their share of provisions. This question of Mr B----n's
+very much surprized us; and what surprized us more was, that he should be
+influenced by Mr C----l, a person whom he always held in contempt. As for
+my part, I believe Mr B----n left us because he could not get an
+accommodation aboard the vessel that he liked, being obliged to lie forward
+with the men; as were also the carpenter and myself when below: It is very
+certain, that we are so closely pent up for want of room, that the worst
+jail in England is a palace to our present situation.
+
+<p>Tuesday the 20th, served out to the people eight days' flour, to be dress'd
+ashore. I went in the cutter to command in my turn for a week.
+
+<p>Wednesday the 21st, close weather; the wind from W. to N.W., with rain and
+hail. Brought aboard shell-fish in abundance. At noon the Honourable Mr
+B----n came with some of the crew over-land; he ask'd me whether the boat's
+crew were gone off, and if we had served the provision, for he wanted to
+return to the barge. I told him all the people were out a-fishing, and that
+the first who came in should carry him off. On which he said, I think we
+will go and get some fish too, having nothing else to live on. This was the
+last time I ever saw his honour. When the people return'd from fishing,
+they told me Mr B----n had lost his hat, the wind blowing it off his head.
+I said, rather than he should want a hat I would give him my own. One of
+the seamen forced a hat on his head; his name was John Duck: But Mr B----n
+would by no means wear it, saying, John, I thank you, if I accept of your
+kindness you must go bareheaded, and I think I can bear hardships as well
+as the best of you, and must use myself to them. I took eight people and
+went overland to the place where the barge lay, to get the canvass that we
+stood so much in need of, but found that she was gone from thence. The
+people in the barge told our men that they would return to us again, but it
+is plain they never intended it.
+
+<p>Thursday the 22d, this day we saw sea-fowl in vast flocks, flying to the
+southward, where was a dead whale. Look'd out all this day for the barge,
+but to no purpose. The barge not returning was a very great misfortune,
+having no boat but the cutter; and if by an unlucky accident we lose her,
+we must be reduced to the greatest extremities to get provision. The
+persons in the barge, except the captain's steward, always approved of
+going to the southward, but it seems Mr C----l, the poltron, prevail'd on
+'em to return to Captain C----p.
+
+<p>Friday the 23d, saw thousands of sea-fowl; in the morning they fly to the
+northward, and in the evening come back to the south; they are birds of a
+very large size, but of what kind we do not know. Since we have been here
+we saw several Indian graves; they are dug just within the surface of the
+earth, with a board on each side, and a cross stuck, up at the head. The
+day following, a gun, a four-pounder, was seen near the anchor in Clam Bay;
+we call it by this name, because of the vast quantities of this sort of
+shell-fish which are found there.
+
+<p>Monday the 26th, it being very calm and fair weather, I went ashore to
+bring off the people; weigh'd the longboat, and took her in tow over a bar
+where there was ten feet water, but a great swell; as soon as we got over
+the bar there sprung up a breeze of wind at N.W., steer'd away S. 1/2 E.
+for the southmost part of land, which bore S. by E., distant fourteen
+leagues. The two points of land make a large and deep sandy bay, we sounded
+but found no ground; it is a bold shore close to. I kept a-head in the
+cutter, in order to provide a harbour for the long-boat; Providence
+directed us to a very good one: It blew so hard, with thick hazy weather,
+that we could not keep the sea. At eight at night we anchor'd in eight
+fathom water, a-breast of a fine sandy bay, and land-locked not above three
+boats length from the shore: At the entrance of the harbour, which lies
+about a league up the lagoon, I set the land, the northmost point bore by
+the compass N. by E., distant twelve leagues, and the southmost S. by W.,
+distant five leagues; the entrance lies E.
+
+<p>Tuesday the 27th, fresh gales at west, and cloudy weather, with a great
+swell without, insomuch that we could not put out to sea; we therefore sent
+the people ashore to dress their provisions; each man is allow'd but a
+quarter of a pound of flour per day, without any other subsistence but what
+Providence brings in our way.
+
+<p>Thursday, the 29th, early this morning it being calm and thick weather,
+with small rain, we rowed out of the lagoon; at five it cleared up, with a
+fresh breeze at S.S.E., steer'd S.W. and S.W. by W., saw a small island
+bearing S. by W., the southmost end S. by E. This island we called the rock
+of Dundee, it being much like that island in the West-Indies, but not so
+large; it lieth about four leagues distant from the southmost point of land
+out at sea. This day it blow'd so hard that we were obliged to take the
+cutter in tow.
+
+<p>Friday the 30th, hard gales, and a great sea; saw some islands and some
+sunken rocks; at six saw the main in two points of land, with a large
+opening; on each side the sunken rocks are innumerable; the entrance is so
+dangerous, that no mortal would attempt it unless his case was desperate as
+ours, we have nothing but death before our eyes in keeping the sea, and the
+same prospect in running in with the land: We ran in before the wind to the
+opening that appear'd between the two points, the northmost of which bore
+N. by E., and the southmost S. by E. We steered in east, and found the
+opening to be a large lagoon on the southmost side, running into a very
+good harbour; here our small vessel lay secure in a cove, which nature had
+form'd like a dock; we had no occasion to let go our anchor, but ran
+alongside the land, and made fast our head and stern. The people went
+ashore in search of provision; here we found plenty of wood and water, and
+fine large muscles in great quantities. Served to each man half a piece of
+beef.
+
+<p>Saturday the 31st, this morning cast loose and row'd towards the mouth of
+the lagoons, designing to put out to sea, but the wind blew so hard that we
+were obliged to come to an anchor. This afternoon, in weighing the grapnel
+in order to go to the cove, we found it foul among some rocks, all hands
+haul'd, took a turn round the main-mast and went aft, which weighed the
+grapnel, but straightened one of the flukes: Here the land is very high and
+steep on each side, the carpenter and cooper were on the highest of these
+hills, and found deep ponds of water on the top of them; these hills are
+very rocky, and there are great falls of water all along the coast: The
+whole navy of England may lie with safety in many of those lagoons, but the
+coast is too dangerous for any ship to fall in with the land. The people
+today were very much afflicted with the gripes and pains in their side.
+Here are abundance of trees, not unlike our yew-trees, they are not above
+seven or eight inches in diameter, and the bark is like cedar. The land is
+to appearance very good, but on digging beneath the surface we find it
+almost an entire stone. We saw no people here, though it is plain there
+have been some lately, by their wigwams or huts. We are so closely pent up
+for want of room, that our lodging is very uncomfortable; the stench of the
+men's wet cloaths makes the air we breathe nauseous to that degree, that
+one would think it impossible for a man to live below. We came to sail, and
+steered out of the lagoon west; went into a sandy bay one league to the
+southward of the lagoon. Indian huts to be seen, but no natives.
+
+<p>Monday November 2d, at five in the morning, came to sail with the wind at
+S. and S. by E. At noon the wind came to the W. and W.N.W. in small
+breezes. This day I had a very good observation, it being the first since
+we left Cheap's Island. We found ourselves in the latitude of 50° 0' S.
+After observing, bore away and ran into a fine smooth passage between the
+island and the main. These islands I believe to be the same that are taken
+notice of in Cook's voyage. From the entrance to the northward, to the
+going out of the Cape of Good Hope (as we call it) the distance is about
+six leagues, and the depth of the water is from two fathom to twelve; the
+northmost land before we came into the passage bore N. by W., and the
+southmost, or Cape of Good Hope, bore S. by E. In the evening anchored in a
+fine sandy bay; here we also saw Indian huts, but no people. To-day we shot
+wild geese in abundance, and got of shell-fish, as limpets and muscles.
+
+<p>Tuesday the 3d, at four this morning weighed, and came to sail with the
+wind at W., till we got about the Cape of Good Hope, then at W.N.W.,
+steering S., and a tumbling sea from the W. The cutter steer'd S. by E.
+into a deep bay; supposing them not to see the southmost land, we made the
+signal for her, by hoisting an ensign at the topping-lift; as the cutter
+was coming up to us her square sail splitted, we offer'd to take them in
+tow, but they would not accept it; we lay with our sails down some time
+before they would show any signal of making sail; coming before the wind,
+and a large sea, we ordered them to steer away for the southmost point of
+land after us, and to keep as near us as possible; but, instead of
+observing our directions, they steered away into the cod of a deep bay,
+supposed to be King's Bay: The cutter being much to leeward, and the
+weather being very thick, we were obliged to steer after her, but soon lost
+sight of her. The place being exceeding dangerous, we could not venture any
+farther after the cutter, therefore we hauled by the wind to the southward,
+it continued blowing hard, with thick weather, with sunken rocks and
+breakers, so that we were obliged to bear away before the wind into a large
+bay, the tide running rampant, and in a great swell, every where surrounded
+with sunken rocks, that we thought nothing but a miracle could save
+us: at last we got safe into the bay, and came to in two fathom water, we
+steered in east. At four this morning rowed out between the islands, after
+we got out had a fresh breeze at N.W., steered out S.S.W. then S. and S. by
+E., the cutter a-head. At seven in the morning a-breast of Cape Good Hope,
+saw a large high rock bearing S., steered S. by E., going within it, and
+the main a-breast of the rocks, saw a long point making into islands
+bearing S. by E., steer'd S. until a-breast of them: The same day saw a
+very high land, with a low point running off in small hommacoes, bearing
+from the northmost point S. by E. about eighteen leagues; between those two
+points is a large deep bay, all within surrounded with rocks and small
+islands, steered S. and S. by W. for the outermost point, the cutter
+keeping within, and we considering the ill consequence of being embayed, to
+prevent which we hauled the mainsail and foresail down, and kept the vessel
+before the wind; at eleven the cutter came alongside, with her mainsail
+split; we called to them to take hold of a tow-rope, but they refused,
+telling us that the boat would not bear towing, by reason of the swell of
+the sea, therefore they would have us nearer the shore, where we should
+have smooth water; we answered them that the water was smoother without,
+and nothing nigh the sea that runs within; besides, we shall be embay'd,
+therefore we desire you to come on board the vessel, and we'll take the
+boat in tow: They had no regard to what we said; we at the same time, for
+above a quarter of an hour, lay in the trough of the sea, with a fair wind:
+The people in the cutter would neither make sail nor row, at last, finding
+them obstinate, we hoisted a skirt of the mainsail, and edged farther off,
+S. by W.; when they found we would not go into that bay, they hoisted their
+mainsail, and went a-head; being some distance a-head, we made sail, the
+cutter still keeping a-head till one o'clock, then she bore away S. by E.
+and S.S.E., the reason of which we could not tell, it blowing very hard,
+with a great sea, nothing before us but rocks and breakers, therefore of
+consequence the farther in the sea must be the greater. At half an hour
+past two, the cutter being on the beam, and four miles within us, we bore
+away after them, and in a very heavy squall of wind and rain we lost sight
+of her: After the squall was over it cleared up, but we saw nothing of the
+cutter, nor could we clear the shore to the northward, being not above two
+miles off the breakers; therefore we were under a necessity of hauling to
+the southward for self-preservation, and very narrowly escaped clearing the
+rocks: After running about three leagues, saw an opening, where we hoped to
+find a good harbour; Bore away for the opening, we were here again
+surrounded with rocks and breakers, with a hard gale of wind and a great
+sea, the oldest seaman on board never saw a more dismal prospect; we ran in
+before the wind for about two leagues; expecting every rise and fall of the
+sea to be a wreck, but Providence at length conducted us to an indifferent
+place of shelter: We were now in a most wretched condition, having no boat
+to go ashore in, to seek for provender, and the greatest part of the people
+on board are so regardless of life, that they really appear quite
+indifferent whether they shall live or die, and it is with much intreaty
+that any of them can be prevailed on to come upon deck, to assist for their
+preservation.
+
+<p>The people's names in the cutter are as follow, viz.
+
+<pre>
+Names.              Quality.          Age.      Where born.
+
+Thomas Harvey,      purser,            23       Westminster.
+John Mooring,       boatswain's mate,  34       Gosport.
+William Oram,       carpenter's crew,  28       Philadelphia.
+Richard Phipps,     boatswain's mate,  30       Bristol.
+Matthew Lively,     gunner's mate,     34       Exeter.
+John George,        seaman,            22       Wandsworth.
+Nicholas Griselham, ditto,             31       Ipswich.
+James Stewart,      ditto,             35       Aberdeen.
+James Roach,        ditto,             21       Cork.
+James Butler,       ditto,             32       Dublin.
+John Allen,         ditto,             18       Gosport.
+</pre>
+
+<p>Wednesday the 4th, hard gales at W.N.W., and a great sea without; served
+out flour and a piece of beef to two men for a week's subsistence; the
+weather is so bad that there is no other food to be got.
+
+<p>Thursday the 5th, little wind at S.W., with heavy rains; at six this
+morning went under sail, but could make no hand of it, therefore were
+obliged to put back again: As soon as we came to an anchor, the boatswain
+employed himself in making a raft to get ashore with; this raft was made
+with oars and water barrels; when it was made, and over the side, it would
+carry three men, but it was no sooner put off from the vessel's side but it
+canted, and obliged the people to swim for their lives; the boatswain got
+hold of the raft, and with some difficulty reach'd the shore; when he came
+off in the evening, he informed us he had seen a beef puncheon, which gave
+us some reason to apprehend some other ship of the squadron had suffered
+our fate.
+
+<p>Friday the 6th, this morning went under sail, the wind at W.N.W., with
+fresh gales and heavy rain, the wind came to the westward, and a great sea,
+so that we could not turn out over the bar: In our putting back we saw the
+cutter, a very agreeable sight, which gave us new life; in the evening
+anchored at the place sailed from, the carpenter and others went ashore to
+get shell-fish, which we stood in great need of; at night the proper boat's
+crew would not go ashore with the boat as usual, but made her fast a-stern
+of the vessel, with only two men in her, she never being left without four
+before; at eleven at night one of the men came out of her into the vessel,
+it blowing very hard at N.N.E., in half an hour shifted to N.W., and rainy
+weather, that we could not see a boat's length: At two the next morning the
+cutter broke loose from the stern of the vessel; we called from on board to
+James Stewart, the man that was in her, but he could not hear us: In a
+short time we lost sight of her, believing she must be stove among the
+rocks. The loss of the cutter gives the few thinking people aboard a great
+deal of uneasiness; we have seventy-two men in the vessel, and not above
+six of that number that gives themselves the least concern for the
+preservation of their lives, but are rather the reverse, being ripe for
+mutiny and destruction; this is a great affliction to the lieutenant,
+myself, and the carpenter, we know not what to do to bring them under any
+command, they have troubled us to that degree, that we are weary of our
+lives; therefore, this day we have told the people, that unless they alter
+their conduct, and subject themselves to command, that we will leave them
+to themselves, and take our chance in this desolate part of the globe,
+rather than give ourselves any farther concern about so many thoughtless
+wretches. Divided the people into four watches, to make more room below.
+The people have promised to be under government, and seem much easier.
+
+<p>Sunday the 8th, this morning the people requested provisions to be served;
+it being four days before the usual time, we think the request very
+unreasonable. We laid the inconveniences before them of breaking in upon
+our stores, considering the badness of the weather, and the length of our
+passage, that if we are not exceedingly provident in regard to serving out
+provisions, we must all inevitably starve. They will not hearken to reason,
+therefore we are obliged to comply with their demands, and serve out
+provisions accordingly. Several of the people have desired to be put on
+shore, desiring us to allow them some few necessaries: We wanted to know
+what could induce them to request our putting them ashore in this remote
+and desolate part of the world: They answered, they did not fear doing
+well, and doubted not but to find the cutter, which, if they did, they
+would go back to the northward, otherwise they would make a canoe;
+therefore insisted on going ashore. On their earnest intreaties the body of
+people agreed to their request: We haul'd the boat close in shore; the
+people who chose to stay behind were eleven in number, we supply'd them
+with proper necessaries, and they signed a certificate, to inform the L----
+s of the A----y, that they were not compelled to stay, but made it their
+own choice, and that they did it for the preservation of themselves and us.
+
+<p><i>A Copy of their Certificate</i>.
+
+<p>"These are to certify, the right honourable the lords commissioners for
+executing the office of lord high admiral of Great Britain, &amp;c. That we,
+whose names are undermentioned, since the misfortune of losing the cutter,
+have consider'd the ill conveniences and difficulties to be attended, where
+so great a number of people are to be carried off, therefore we have
+requested and desired the officers and company remaining of the same vessel
+to put us on shore, with such necessaries of life as can be conveniently
+spared out of the vessel. We, of our own free will and choice, do indemnify
+all persons from ever being call'd to an account for putting us on shore,
+or leaving us behind, contrary to our inclinations. Witness our hands, on
+board the Speedwell schooner, in the latitude 50° 40' S. this 8th day of
+November, 1741. Which was signed by the following people, viz.
+
+<pre>Mat. Langley, gunner's mate
+John Russel, armourer
+George Smith, cook's mate
+William Callicutt, washerman
+John Williamson, marine
+John McLeod, boatswain's servant
+John Hart, joiner
+Joseph Turner, captain's servant
+Luke Lyon, gunner's servant
+Rich. Phipps, boatswain's mate
+Henry Mortimer, marine.
+Witness, John Cummins, carpenter,
+         John Snow, master's mate,
+         Vincent Oakley, surgeon of the army."
+</pre>
+
+<p>Monday the 9th, at ten at night, we weigh'd and rowed out of the bay, at
+day-light got about four leagues right out, every way surrounded with rocks
+and breakers, with a great western swell: We found it a very difficult
+matter to get clear of these rocks and breakers; they reach along shore
+eighteen leagues, and without us at sea eight leagues; I take it, that from
+the land they are fourteen leagues in the offing, those sunken rocks appear
+like a low level land. This coast is too dangerous for shipping, the wind
+being three parts of the year to the westward, which blows right on the
+shore, with a large western swell, that seldom or never ceases; it always
+blows and rains, it is worse here than in the rainy season on the coast of
+Guinea, nor can we as yet distinguish summer from winter, only by the
+length of the days. Steered out of the bay W. by N., then S. by W., then S.
+At noon I had a good observation in the latitude of 50° 50' S., the
+northmost point of the bay bore N.E. by E. seven leagues, the southmost
+point of land S.S.E. twelve leagues. This coast, as far as we have come,
+lies N. by E. and S. by W. by the compass.
+
+<p>Tuesday the 10th, at four this morning made all the sail we could; steering
+S.E. in order to make the land, at six steer'd in E.S.E. at seven made the
+land; at eight saw a point of land bearing S.E. distant six leagues, which,
+when a-breast, seeing no land to the S. I take the point for Cape Victory,
+and the four islands we see I believe to be the islands of Direction, which
+Sir John Narborough gives an account of, excepting the distance, they
+exactly answer his description; therefore, by the latitude, in yesterday's
+observation, and by the distance we have run since, we are now at the
+opening of the Streights of Magellan. At ten in the morning, hard gales at
+N.W. steer'd S.E. the cape bearing E. distant four leagues; at noon bore E.
+by N. distant six leagues; haul'd the main-sail down, and went under a
+fore-sail. I never in my life, in any part of the world, have seen such a
+sea as runs here, we expected every wave to swallow us, and the boat to
+founder. This shore is full of small islands, rocks, and breakers, so that
+we can't haul further to the southward, for fear of endangering the boat,
+we are obliged to keep her right before the sea. At five broach'd to, at
+which we all believ'd she would never rise again. We were surrounded with
+rocks, and so near that a man might toss a biscuit on 'em: We had nothing
+but death before our eyes, and every moment expected our fate. It blew a
+hurricane of wind, with thick rainy weather, that we could not see twice
+the boat's length; we pray'd earnestly for its clearing up, for nothing
+else could save us from perishing; we no sooner ask'd for light, but it was
+granted us from above. At the weather's clearing up, we saw the land on the
+north shore, with islands, rocks and breakers all around us; we were
+oblig'd to put in among 'em for shelter, finding it impossible to keep the
+sea, we were in with the land amongst them, and compell'd to push thro',
+looking death in the face, and expecting every sea to bury us; the boldest
+men amongst us were dismay'd, nor can we possibly give an account in what
+manner we have been this day deliver'd. After sailing amidst islands,
+rocks, and breakers, for above a league, we got safe into a good harbour,
+surrounded with small islands, which kept the sea off; here the water was
+as smooth as in a mill-pond. We call this harbour the Port of God's Mercy,
+esteeming our preservation this day to be a miracle. The most abandon'd
+among us no longer doubt of an Almighty Being, and have promis'd to reform
+their lives.
+
+<p>Wednesday the 11th, the wind much abated, with rain. This morning weigh'd,
+and ran farther in. In the evening we saw two Indians lying on their
+bellies on the top of a steep rock, just over the vessel, peeping with
+their heads over the hill. As soon as we discover'd them, we made motions
+to them to come down; they then rose up, and put on their heads white
+feather'd caps; we then hoisted a white sheet for an ensign: At this they
+made a noise, pronouncing Orza, Orza, which we took for a signal to come
+ashore. We would not suffer above two men to go ashore, and those disarm'd,
+lest we should put them in fear. The Indians had nothing in their hands but
+a club, like our cricket-batts, with which they kill their seal. As soon as
+they saw the two men come ashore they walk'd away, and when they perceiv'd
+our men follow'd them, and gain'd ground of them, they took to their heels,
+frequently looking back, crying Orza, Orza, beckoning the people to follow,
+which they did for a mile or two along-shore, out of sight of the vessel:
+Then the Indians fled to the woods, still wanting our people to follow
+them; but being disarm'd, they were apprehensive the Indians would bush-
+fight them, so they thought proper to give over the pursuit, and to return
+to the boat.
+
+<p>Thursday the 12th, hard gales at W.N.W., with rain. At six this morning we
+again saw the two Indians, they made the same noise and motions to come
+ashore: At which I went with four of the people; the Indians walk'd and ran
+as before, looking back, and making signs to follow, which we did till we
+got to the place where the canoe lay with the four Indians in her. The two
+Indians got into the canoe, and put her off the shore before we could get
+nigh them: As soon as we got abreast of the canoe, they made signs as if
+they wanted clothing; we endeavour'd to make them understand we wanted
+fish, and would truck with them; they had none, but signified to us they
+would go and get some: They had a mangey dog, which they parted with to one
+of the people for a pair of cloth trowsers; this dog was soon kill'd,
+dress'd, and devour'd. Here we found plenty of muscles, which gave us great
+relief, having scarce any thing to subsist on for this week past.
+
+<p>Friday the 13th, very uncertain weather, and squally, the wind variable
+from W.N.W. to S.S.W. This morning all hands ashore a-fishing. Lieutenant
+E----rs of the marines kill'd a large seal or sea-dog, it is exceeding good
+food, and we judg'd it to have weigh'd seventeen score.
+
+<p>Saturday the 14th, little wind at W.N.W. and close weather, with rain. At
+five this morning cast loose, and steer'd south out between the islands,
+the weather clearing up, we saw the south shore: It first appear'd like a
+large island, stretching away to the westward, and at the west end two
+hammacoes like sugar-loaves, and to the southward of them a large point of
+rocks, steer'd S.E. until the point bore W. then steer'd S.E. by E. I took
+the point for Cape Pillar, and was fully assur'd of our being in the
+Streights.
+
+<p>Sunday the 15th, at three this morning cast loose, and row'd, but could not
+get out, so were oblig'd to put back, and make fast, it blowing hard, with
+thick weather all day, in the evening it clear'd up. This day several
+people drove a trade with their allowance, giving silver buckles for flour,
+valued at twelve shillings per pound, and before night it reach'd to a
+guinea, the people crying aloud for provisions, which are now so scarce,
+that several on board are actually starving thro' want.
+
+<p>Monday the 16th, at three this morning cast loose, being little wind, and
+steer'd up the Streights S.E. by E. the wind at N.W. At eight o'clock got
+a-breast of Cape Munday, at nine the cape bore W. distant four leagues, at
+noon running along shore, made two openings, which put the rest of the
+officers to a stand, not knowing which to take for their right passage.
+Asking my opinion, I gave it for keeping on the E.S.E. passage, the other
+lying S.E. by S. On which they said, Sir John Narborough bids us keep the
+south shore on board. I answer'd, that Sir John tells us E.S.E. is the
+direct course from Cape Pillar: I'll venture my life that we are now in the
+right passage; so we kept on E. by S. half S. After running a league or two
+up, and not seeing Cape Quod, nor any outlet, the wind blowing hard, we
+were for running no farther, whereas one league more would have convinc'd
+every body, but they all gave against me, that we were not in the right
+passage: The wind being at W.N.W. we could not turn back again; so that we
+were oblig'd to put into a cove lying on the north shore, where we found
+good anchoring in four fathom water: No provisions to be got here, being a
+barren rocky place, producing not any thing for the preservation of life.
+This afternoon died George Bateman, a boy, aged sixteen years: This poor
+creature starv'd, perish'd, and died a skeleton, for want of food. There
+are several more in the same miserable condition, and who, without a speedy
+relief, must undergo the same fate.
+
+<p>Tuesday the 17th, at five this morning, weigh'd, and row'd out, it being
+calm; at seven a fresh breeze right up the sound, we could not turn to
+windward not above a mile from where we last lay, we made fast along-side
+the rocks; all hands ashore a-fishing for muscles, limpets, and clams; here
+we found those shell-fish in abundance, which prov'd a very seasonable
+relief. Just before we got in, one of the men gave a guinea for a pound of
+flour, being all the money he had.
+
+<p>Wednesday the 18th, the wind at W.N.W. in hard squalls, with hail and snow.
+This morning cast loose, and stood over to the southward, believing the
+tide to run stronger and more true than on the north-shore, hoping shortly
+to get out of the sound, which is not above a league in the wind's eye. At
+two o'clock got into a cove on the south side, made fast along side of the
+rocks; all hands on shore getting muscles and other fish.
+
+<p>Thursday the 19th, fresh gales W.N.W. with hail and snow. This morning cast
+loose, and sail'd out, but could make no hand of it, our boat will not work
+to windward; put back from whence we came, and sent the people ashore to
+get muscles. This night departed this life Mr Thomas Caple, son of the late
+Lieutenant Caple, aged twelve years, who perish'd for want of food. There
+was a person on board who had some of the youth's money, upwards of twenty
+guineas, with a watch and silver cup. Those last the boy was willing to
+sell for flour; but his guardian told him, he would buy cloaths for him in
+the Brazil. The miserable youth cry'd, Sir, I shall never live to see the
+Brazil, I am starving now, almost starv'd to death, therefore, for God's
+sake, give me my silver cup to get me some victuals or buy some for me
+yourself. All his prayers and intreaties to him were vain, but heaven sent
+death to his relief, and put a period to his miseries in an instant.
+Persons who have not experienc'd the hardships we have met with, will
+wonder how people can be so inhuman to see their fellow-creatures starving
+before their faces, and afford 'em no relief: But hunger is void of all
+compassion; every person was so intent on the preservation of his own life,
+that he was regardless of another's, and the bowels of commiseration were
+shut up. We slip no opportunity, day or night, to enter into the suppos'd
+right Streights, but can get no ground. This day we serv'd flour and a
+piece of beef between two men for a week. Captain P----n, of his majesty's
+land forces, gave two guineas for two pounds of flour; this flour was sold
+him by the seamen, who live on muscles. Many of the people eat their flour
+raw as soon as they are serv'd it. The wind and weather not permitting us
+to go out, the men were employ'd in getting wood and water.
+
+<p>Tuesday the 24th, this morning it being calm, row'd out, at eight o'clock
+had the supposed right Streights open, having a breeze at W.N.W. S.E. by E.
+through the first reach, and S.S.E. through the second, then saw three
+islands, the largest of which lies on the north-shore, and there is a
+passage about two miles broad between that and the islands to the
+southward; there is also another passage between that island and the north-
+shore, of a mile and a half broad. Before you come to those islands there
+is a sound lying on the south-shore: You can see no passage until you come
+close up with the island, and then the imaginary Streights are not above
+two miles broad. Steer'd away for the island S.E. about two leagues, then
+came into a narrow passage, not above a cable's length over, which put us
+all to a stand, doubting of any farther passage. The wind took us a-head,
+and the tide being spent we put into a small cove, and made fast. At seven
+in the evening, being calm, cast loose, being willing to see if there was
+any opening, but to our great misfortune, found none, which very much
+surpriz'd us. The lieutenant is of opinion, that we are in a lagoon to the
+northward of the Streights. This I cannot believe, and am positive, if ever
+there was such a place in the world as the Streights of Magellan, we are
+now in them, and above thirty leagues up. If he or any of the officers had
+given themselves the trouble of coming upon deck, to have made proper
+remarks, we had been free from all this perplexity, and by this time out of
+the Streights to the northward. There is not an officer aboard, except the
+carpenter and myself, will keep the deck a moment longer than his watch, or
+has any regard to a reckoning, or any thing else. It is agreed to go back
+again.
+
+<p>Wednesday the 25th, little wind with rain. At eight this morning row'd out,
+and got about a league down; here we could get no ground, and were obliged
+to put back again.
+
+<p>Thursday the 26th, little wind; row'd out, got about five leagues down.
+This day we were in such want of provisions, that we were forced to cut up
+the seal skin and broil it, notwithstanding it has lain about the deck for
+this fortnight.
+
+<p>Friday the 27th, little wind and close weather. This morning cast loose and
+row'd down, had a fresh breeze at north, steer'd W.S.W. into another
+opening on the south-shore, hoping to find a passage out of the lagoon, as
+the lieutenant calls it, into the right Streights. After going two leagues
+up saw there was no opening, put back and made fast where we came from,
+being determined to go back and make Cape Pillar a second time, which is
+the south entrance of the Streights. Got abundance of large muscles, five
+or six inches long, a very great relief to us at present.
+
+<p>Sunday the 29th, hard gales from N.W. to S.W. with heavy rains. Great
+uneasiness among the people, many of them despairing of a deliverance, and
+crying aloud to serve provisions four days before the time. Finding no way
+to pacify them, we were obliged to serve them. We endeavoured to encourage
+and comfort them as much as lay in our power, and at length they seemed
+tolerably easy.
+
+<p>Monday the 30th, fresh gales at W. with continual rain. This day died three
+of our people, viz. Peter Delroy, barber, Thomas Thorpe and Thomas
+Woodhead, marines, they all perish'd for want of food: Several more are in
+the same way, being not able to go ashore for provisions, and those who are
+well cannot get sufficient for themselves, therefore the sick are left
+destitute of all relief. There is one thing to be taken notice of in the
+death of those people, that some hours before they die they are taken
+lightheaded, and fall a joking and laughing, and in this humour they
+expire.
+
+<p>Tuesday, December the 1st, 1741, little wind, and fair weather, which is a
+kind of prodigy in those parts. In the morning put out of the cove, and got
+four leagues down; then the wind took us a-head, and we put into another
+cove where we got muscles and limpets. At four this afternoon saw an Indian
+canoe coming over from the north-shore; they landed two of their men to the
+leeward of the cove, they came opposite to us, and viewed us, then went
+back, and came with the canoe within a cable's length of our boat, but no
+nearer, so that we had no opportunity to truck with them.
+
+<p>Wednesday the 2d, little wind, with rain. At nine this morning row'd out
+and got about a league farther down; the wind beginning to blow fresh, we
+put into another cove, and found plenty of shell-fish, which kept up our
+spirits greatly, for it is enough to deject any thinking man, to see that
+the boat will not turn to windward, being of such length, and swimming so
+buoyant upon the water, that the wind, when close haul'd, throws her to
+leeward: We have been seventeen days going seven or eight leagues to
+windward, which must make our passage very long and uncomfortable.
+
+<p>Friday the 4th, little wind at S. and fair. This morning rowed out, at ten
+got down, where we saw a smoke, but no people; we saw a dog running along
+shore, and keeping company with the boat for above a mile; we then put in,
+with a design, to shoot him, but he soon disappointed us, by taking into
+the woods. We put off again with a fine breeze, steering N.W. by W. down
+the Streights. The carpenter gave a guinea this day for a pound of flour,
+which he made into cakes, and eat instantly. At six in the evening abreast
+of Cape Munday; at eight abreast of Cape Upright, being fair weather.
+Intend to keep under sail all night.
+
+<p>Saturday the 5th, little wind and fair: At four this morning I saw Cape
+Pillar, bearing W. by N. distant eight leagues; saw a smoke on the south
+shore, and at noon we saw a smoke on the north shore, but we did not care
+to lose time: At three o'clock saw Cape Desseada, bearing from Cape Pillar
+S.W. distant four leagues, at four o'clock wore the boat, and steered
+E.S.E. The lieutenant was now fully convinced we have been all along in the
+right Streights, and had we run but one league further, on Monday, Nov. 17,
+we had escaped all this trouble and anxiety: As for my own part, I was very
+well assured, from the first entrance, that we were right, but the
+lieutenant would not believe that it was Cape Pillar on the S. shore coming
+into the Streights, but thought we were in a lagoon to the northward; so
+that we have been above a fortnight coming back to rectify mistakes, and to
+look at Cape Pillar a second time: At eight o'clock came abreast of the
+smoke seen in the morning. The people being well assured that we are
+actually in the Streights of Magellan, are all alive. Wind at W.S.W.
+
+<p>Sunday, little wind at W. with rain; at three this morning abreast of Cape
+Munday; at six abreast of Cape de Quod, opposite to which, on the south
+shore, saw a smoke, on which we went ashore to the Indians, who came out on
+a point of land, at the entrance of a cove, hollowing and crying, <i>Bona!
+Bona!</i> endeavouring to make us understand they were our friends; when
+ashore, we traded with them for two dogs, three brant geese, and some seal,
+which supply was very acceptable to us; we supped on the dogs, and thought
+them equal in goodness to the best mutton in England. We took from the
+Indians a canoe, made of the bark of trees, but soon towed her under water,
+and were obliged to cut her loose; steered N.E. by E. At eight o'clock
+abreast of St Jerom's Sound; at twelve abreast of Royal Island.
+
+<p>The Indians we saw in the Streights of Magellan are people of a middle
+stature, and well shaped, their complexion of a tawny olive colour, their
+hair exceeding black, but not very long, they have round faces and small
+noses, their eyes little and black, their teeth are smooth and even, and
+close set, of an incomparable whiteness, they are very active in body, and
+run with a surprising agility, they wear on their heads white feathered
+caps, their bodies are covered with the skins of seals and guinacoes. The
+women, as soon as they saw us, fled into the woods, so that we can give no
+description of them.
+
+<p>Monday the 7th, fresh gales at W.N.W. and fine weather; at six this morning
+abreast of Cape Forward, steered N. by E. At nine abreast of Port Famine,
+at twelve at noon put in at Freshwater bay, and filled one cask of water,
+having none aboard; at one o'clock put out again, steered N. by E.
+expecting plenty of wood and water at Elizabeth's Island; at nine at night
+passed by Sandy Point, it bore S.S.E. and the island St George E.N.E.
+distant three leagues.
+
+<p>Tuesday the 8th, at four this morning, being calm, weighed, and rowed
+towards Elizabeth's Island, it bearing W.N.W. At four in the afternoon
+anchored off the northmost in eight fathom water, fine sand, about half a
+cable's length from the shore put the vessel in, and landed some people to
+see for wood and water. In the evening the people came aboard, having been
+all over the island in search of wood and water, but found none; here
+indeed we found shaggs and sea-gulls in great numbers, it being breeding
+time, we got a vast quantity of their eggs, most of them having young ones
+in the shell: However, we beat them up all together, with a little flour,
+and made a very rich pudding. Elizabeth's Island is a beautiful spot of
+ground to appearance, with very good pasture, but it is entirely barren of
+any thing for the support of man. This day John Turner, marine, perished
+for want of food.
+
+<p>Wednesday the 9th, at four this morning weighed, and steered E.N.E. for the
+Narrows, with the wind at S.S.W., when abreast ef the Sweepstakes Foreland,
+steered S.S.E. on purpose to look for water; after going along shore about
+six leagues into a deep bay, we saw a fine delightful country: Here we saw
+the guianacoes in great numbers, ten or twelve in a drove; they are to be
+seen in such droves all along the shore for several leagues.
+
+<p>The guianacoe is as large as any English deer, with a long neck, his head,
+mouth, and ears resembling a sheep; he has very long slender legs, and is
+cloven-footed like a deer, with a short bushy tail of a reddish colour; his
+back is covered with red wool, pretty long; but down his sides, and all the
+belly part, is white wool: Those guianacoes, though at a distance very much
+resembling the female deer, are probably the sheep of this country; they
+are exceeding nimble, of an exquisite quick sight, very shy, and difficult
+to be shot: At noon, finding neither wood nor water, wore to the northward,
+at three got abreast of the Foreland, hauled in for Fish Cove, which lieth
+just round the eastern point; here we expected to land and shoot some of
+the guianacoes, but when abreast of the Cove, the wind blew so hard right
+out, that we were obliged to bear away for the first Narrow, it being
+impossible to get in. At eight this evening entered the first Narrow,
+meeting the flood, which runs here very strong; at twelve came to an anchor
+in five fathom, about a mile off shore. The tide floweth on the western
+shore seven hours, and ebbs five. This day Robert Vicars, marine, perished
+with want.
+
+<p>Thursday the 10th, at four this morning weighed, and came to sail; at six
+got out of the first Narrow, hauled in for a deep bay on the north shore to
+seek for water: The boatswain swam ashore, and in half an hour afterwards
+came down on the beach, and brought us the news of finding fresh water. It
+being rocky ground and ebbing water, the vessel struck; we were obliged in
+this exigence to slip the cable, time not permitting us to haul up the
+anchor, we stood off, and on the shore till half flood, then went in and
+took the cable on board: After landing some people with casks to fill,
+hauled the anchor up, and went about two miles farther out.
+
+<p>Friday the 11th, at three this morning the boat struck upon the tide of
+ebb, it ebbing so fast we could not get her off, in a quarter of an hour's
+time the boat was dry; we were favoured with little wind and smooth water,
+otherwise she must have stove to pieces, the ground being very foul; it
+ebbs dry above a league off, and there is shoal water a great deal further
+out, so that it is dangerous for a ship to haul into this bay. While the
+boat was dry got all the water casks out of the hold, and put them ashore
+to be filled. At six hauled the boat off, having received no damage; at
+eight, it being four feet flood, run the boat close in shore and took off
+our water, the whole quantity being four tons, out of which we were obliged
+to leave two puncheons, one quarter-cask, with three muskets, a funnel, and
+some other necessaries, and were very much concerned lest we should also
+leave some of the people ashore. The wind blowing hard, and the sea
+tumbling in, we were under a necessity of hauling off and putting to sea,
+for fear of losing the boat. Since we left the island where the Wager was
+lost, we have several times very narrowly escaped being made a wreck, and
+sometimes have been preserved when we have seen our fate before our eyes,
+and every moment expected it, and when all the conduct and ability of men
+could have availed nothing. Any one who has been a witness of those
+providential deliverances, and doubts the being of a Supreme Power,
+disqualifies himself from any title to all future mercy, and justly
+deserves the wrath of an incensed Deity. This day, at noon, being well out
+of the bay, and nigh mid-channel over, steered E.N.E. for Cape Virgin Mary,
+with a fine gale at S.W. At one we saw the cape bearing N.E, by E. distant
+nine leagues; at seven in the evening saw a low point of flat land,
+stretching away from the cape S.S.E. two leagues; at eight little or no
+wind, steered E. by S. at twelve at night doubled the point, the wind at W.
+right in the middle of the bay, where we filled the water; in land lie two
+peaks, exactly like ass's ears. We would advise all vessels from hauling
+into this bay, it being shoal water and foul ground. As for every other
+part of the Straights of Magellan, from Cape Victory to Cape Virgin Mary,
+we recommend Sir John Narborough, who in his account is so just and exact,
+that we think it is impossible for any man living to mend his works. We
+have been a month in those Streights, from our first sight of Cape Pillar
+to Cape Virgin Mary. The whole length of the Streights, the reaches and
+turnings included, is reckoned one hundred and sixteen leagues.
+
+<p>Saturday the 12th, little wind, and fair weather. At one this morning
+steered N. by W. At four the wind came to N.W. Tacked and stood to the
+westward; the two points stretching off from the cape bore N.W. by W.
+distant two leagues. At noon, the wind being at N.E. steering along shore
+from the cape, saw on the shore three men, on mules or horses, riding
+towards us; when they came abreast of us, they stopped and made signals,
+waving their hats, as though they wanted to speak with us; at which we
+edged close to the shore, where we saw to the number of twenty; five of
+them rode abreast, the others were on foot, having a large store of cattle
+with them. On sight of this, we anchored within a mile of the shore. The
+cape bore W.S.W. distant seven leagues, the swell tumbling in from the sea,
+would not permit us to speak with'em, by their motions, actions, cloathing,
+and by their whole behaviour, we took them for Christians: It being a plain
+level land, they rode backwards and forwards like racers, waving white
+handkerchiefs, and making signs for us going into a bay, which lay about a
+league to the northward, which we designed to do on the tide of ebb. The
+flood being very strong against us, they waited on the shore till the tide
+was spent; we weighed and stood to northward, the wind blowing right in
+from sea, and a great swell, we could not clear the land, so that we wore
+and stood to the southward, and very narrowly escaped clearing the breakers
+off the pitch of the cape, which lay about two leagues out at sea to the
+southward. At nine at night the cape bore W. distant six leagues; stood out
+to sea till eleven o'clock, then wore and stood in, the wind shifting to
+N.N.E. The next morning we steered in for the bay, and saw those people
+again; but the wind soon afterwards veering to the westward, and blowing
+strong, we were obliged to bear away: We could not by any means come to the
+knowledge of these people; whether they are unfortunate creatures that have
+been cast away, or whether they are inhabitants about the river Gallegoes,
+we can't tell.
+
+<p>Tuesday the 15th, fresh gales and fair weather. This morning saw the land;
+the southmost point bore W.S.W., the northmost point N.N.E. At eight saw
+two ledges of rocks, running two leagues out from a point of land which
+makes like an old castle. At noon the extremes of the land bore W. by N.
+distant three leagues, had a good observation, latitude 49: 10 S. Course
+made this twenty-four hours is N. by E. half E. distant 104 miles,
+longitude in 74: 05 W.
+
+<p>Wednesday, the 16th, at noon abreast of Penguin island, not above half a
+mile from shore. We saw on this island seals and penguins without number,
+the shore being entirely covered with them. We find the penguin exactly to
+answer Sir John Narborough's description; therefore we beg leave to give it
+the reader in that excellent navigator's own words: "The penguin is a fowl
+that lives by catching and eating fish, which he dives for, and is very
+nimble in the water; he is as big as a brant goose, and weighs near about
+eight pounds; they have no wings, but flat stumps like fins; their coat is
+a downy stumped feather; they are blackish grey on the backs and heads, and
+white about their necks and down their bellies; they are short-legged like
+a goose, and stand upright like little children in white aprons, in
+companies together; they are full-necked, and headed and beaked like a
+crow, only the point of their bill turns down a little; they will bite
+hard, but they are very tame, and will drive in herds to your boat-side
+like sheep, and there you may knock'em on the head, all one after another;
+they will not make any great haste away." We steered N.W. by N. for the
+harbour of Port Desire: The going into this harbour is very remarkable; on
+the south side lies, one mile in the land, an high peaked-tip rock, much
+like a tower, looking as though it was a work of art set up for a land-mark
+to steer into this harbour; this rock is forty feet high. At five o'clock
+got into the harbour, run up to Seal Island, which lieth about a league up;
+here we killed more seal in half an hour than we could carry off, being
+obliged to leave the greatest part of what we killed behind. The people
+eating greedily of the seal, were seized with violent fevers and pains in
+their heads. While we were at Port Desire we had seal and fowl in
+abundance. The carpenter found here a parcel of bricks, some of'em with
+letters cut in them, on one of those bricks these words were very plain and
+legible, viz. <i>Capt. Straiton, 16 Cannons, 1687</i>. Those we imagine have
+been laid here from a wreck. The carpenter with six men went in search of
+water, a mile up the water's side; they found Peckett's well, mention'd in
+Sir John Narborough's book; the spring is so small, that it doth not give
+above thirty gallons per day, but the well being full, supplied us. The
+people grow very turbulent and uneasy, requiring flour to be served out;
+which, in our present circumstance, is a most unreasonable request; we have
+but one cask of flour on board, and a great distance to run into the
+Brazil, and no other provision in the boat but the seal we have killed
+here: Nay, they carry their demands much higher, insisting that the marine
+officers, and such people as cannot be assisting in working the boat, shall
+have but half the allowance of the rest; accordingly they have pitched upon
+twenty to be served half a pound of flour each man, and themselves a pound.
+This distinction the half-pounders complain of, and that twenty are
+selected to be starved. While we were at Port Desire, one day dressing our
+victuals, we set fire to the grass; instantly the flames spread, and
+immediately we saw the whole country in a conflagration, and the next day,
+from the watering-place, we saw the smoke at a distance, so that then the
+fire was not extinguished.
+
+<p>Friday the 25th, little wind, and fair weather; went up to our slaughter-
+house in Seal island, and took on board our sea-store, which we completed
+in half an hour's time; turned down the harbour with the tide of ebb, in
+the evening, the wind at N.E. could make no hand of it, so bore away for
+the harbour again, and came to an anchor.
+
+<p>Saturday the 26th, at three in the morning, sailed out of Port Desire
+harbour; steered out E.N.E. At six Penguin island bore S. by E. distant six
+leagues, and Cape Blanco N.W. by N. four leagues. This day I took my
+departure from Cape Blanco; I judge the cape to lie in the longitude of 71:
+00 W. from the meridian of London.
+
+<p>Monday the 28th, moderate gales, and fair. This day served out all the
+flour in the boat, at three pound and a half to each man. We have now
+nothing to live on but seal, and what Providence throws in our way.
+
+<p>Friday, January the 1st, 1741-2, fresh gales and fair weather, with a great
+sea. At ten last night shifting the man at the helm, brought her by the
+lee, broke the boom; and lost a seaman overboard. The greatest part of our
+seal taken in at Port Desire, for want of salt to cure it there, now stinks
+very much; but having nothing else we are obliged to eat it. We are now
+miserable beyond description, having nothing to feed on ourselves, and at
+the same time almost eaten up with vermin.
+
+<p>Wednesday the 6th, departed this life Mr Thomas Harvey, the purser; he died
+a skeleton for want of food: This gentleman probably was the first purser
+belonging to his majesty's service that ever perished with hunger. We see
+daily a great number of whales.
+
+<p>Sunday the 10th, this day at noon, in working the bearings, and distant to
+Cape St Andrew, do find myself not above thirteen leagues distant from the
+land, therefore hauled in N.W. to make it before night. We saw to-day
+abundance of insects, particularly butterflies and horse-stingers. We have
+nothing to eat but some stinking seal, and not above twenty out of the
+forty-three which are now alive have even that, and such hath been our
+condition for this week past; nor are we better off in regard to water,
+there not being above eighty gallons on board: Never were beheld a parcel
+of more miserable objects, there are not above fifteen of us healthy, (if
+people may be called healthy that are scarce able to crawl). I am reckoned
+at present one of the strongest men in the boat, yet can hardly stand on my
+legs ten minutes together, nor even that short space of time without
+holding: Every man of us hath had a new coat of skin from head to foot: We
+that are in the best state of health do all we can to encourage the rest.
+At four this afternoon, we were almost transported with joy at the sight of
+land, (having seen no land for fourteen days before) the extremes of which
+bore N.W. about seven leagues; we ran in with it, and at eight anchored in
+eight fathom; fine sand about a league from the shore; the northmost point
+bore about N.E., the southmost point about S.W. by S. This day perished for
+want of food, serjeant Ringall.
+
+<p>Monday the 11th, at four this morning weighed, and came to sail, steering
+along shore N.E. by E. This is a pleasant and delightful country to sail
+by: We kept within a mile of the shore; we saw horses and large dogs in
+great numbers, the shore being perfectly covered with them. At noon I had a
+good observation in the latitude of 38: 40 S. At the same time a-head land,
+which I took for Cape St Andrew's; it is a long sandy point, very low,
+where a shoal runs off S.E. about three leagues. Sounded, and had but two
+fathom and half at high-water. When we got clear of this, we steered N.E.
+into a sandy bay, and anchored there in three fathom and half, fine sand;
+the north point bore N.N.W., the south point S.E. by E. Here is a great
+swell, and shoal water. This bay we call Shoalwater Bay.
+
+<p>Tuesday the 12th, lying in Shoalwater Bay, the wind at S.E. and fair
+weather. Having nothing on board the vessel to eat, and but one cask of
+water to drink, we put her in as nigh as we could venture; so that any
+person who had the least skill in swimming, might get ashore: Here runs a
+pretty large surf, which may endanger our vessel; this puts us to a stand:
+To go from hence without meat or drink is certain death. A few of the
+healthiest were resolved to swim on shore, to get water and provisions; the
+officers, viz. the boatswain, carpenter, and Lieutenant E----rs, to animate
+the rest, first leaped into the water; eleven of the people followed them;
+in this attempt one of the marines was unfortunately drowned: We tossed
+overboard four quarter-casks to fill with water; lashing to the cask two
+fire-locks on each side, with ammunition for shooting. When the officers
+and people got on shore, they saw thousands of horses and dogs; the dogs
+are of a mongril breed, and very large. They also saw abundance of parrots
+and seals on the rocks, but not a bush growing on the place; they made a
+fire with horse dung, and shot a great many seal, which they cut up in
+quarters to bring aboard. One of the water-casks being leaky, they cut it
+up, and converted it into fuel to dress the seal. They caught four
+armadilloes, they are much larger than our hedge-hogs, and very like them;
+their bodies are cased all over with shells, shutting under one another
+like shells of armour. In this country thirteen of his majesty's British
+subjects put to flight a thousand Spanish horse. Horses are more numerous
+here, than sheep are on the plains in Dorset and Wiltshire. We on board see
+abundance of seal lying on the shore cut in pieces, but the wind blows so
+hard we can by no means get at it. We think ourselves now worse off than
+ever, for we are actually starving in the sight of plenty. We have but two
+people on board that can swim; to give them all the assistance we can, the
+lieutenant and myself, with the rest of the people, proposed to haul the
+vessel nearer in, and make a raft for one of the two to swim ashore on, and
+to carry a line to haul some of the seal aboard: With much entreaty these
+two swimmers were prevailed on to cast lots; the lot falling on the weakest
+of 'em, who was a young lad about fifteen years of age, and scarce able to
+stand, we would not suffer him to go. While our brethren were regaling in
+the fulness of plenty ashore, we aboard were obliged to strip the hatches
+of a seal-skin, which has been for some time nailed on, and made use of for
+a tarpawlin; we burnt the hair off the skin, and for want of any thing else
+fell to chewing the seal-skin.
+
+<p>Wednesday the 13th, fine weather and calm. At six this morning the
+boatswain shot a horse, and the people a wild dog. The horse was branded on
+the left buttock with these letters A.R. By this we conjecture there are
+inhabitants not far off. At nine veered the boat in, lashed the oars to the
+hatches, and made a stage to haul up the seal. The people swam off three
+casks of water, sent on shore one quarter-cask more, and two breakers. Came
+aboard the boatswain, carpenter, and Lieutenant E----rs, and four men more
+are getting the seal and the horse on board, which was no sooner in the
+vessel than a sea-breeze came in, and blowed so hard, that we were obliged
+to weigh, leaving ashore one quarter-cask, two breakers, and eight of the
+people. The wind at E.S.E. and a tumbling sea, came to an anchor about a
+league off the shore; we shared all the provisions among the company; we
+still see the people ashore, but can't get them off.
+
+<p>Thursday the 14th, hard gales at E.S.E. and fair weather. Last night the
+sea was so great, that it broke the rudder-head off; we were doubtful every
+moment of the vessel's parting, which if she had, we must have been all of
+us inevitably lost. We were obliged to put to sea, not being able to get
+the people off. We sent ashore in a scuttled puncheon some wearing apparel,
+four muskets, with balls, powder, flints, candles, and several necessaries,
+and also a letter to acquaint them of the danger we were in, and of the
+impossibility of our riding it out till they could get off.
+
+<p>In Freshwater Bay, dated on board the Speedwell schooner, on the coast of
+South America, in the latitude of 37: 25 S. longitude from the meridian of
+London, 65: 00 W. this 14th day of January, 1741-2.
+
+<p>
+"These are to certify the right honourable the lords commissioners for
+executing the office of lord high admiral of Great Britain, etc. That we,
+whose names are undermentioned, having nothing left on board the vessel but
+one quarter-cask of water, were obliged to put into the first place we
+could for subsistence, which, was in Freshwater-Bay; where we came to an
+anchor, as near the shore as we could, without endangering the vessel,
+having no boat aboard, and a large surf on the shore, therefore Mr King the
+boatswain, Mr Cummins the carpenter, and Lieutenant Ewers, with eleven of
+the people, jumped overboard, in order to swim ashore, with three casks of
+water, in which attempt James Greenham was drowned in the surf off the
+shore: The sea-breeze coming on, prevented the people getting on board the
+same night; therefore, on Wednesday morning, it being then calm, they
+brought to the beach the casks filled with water, with seal and other
+provisions in great quantities, which we hauled on board. The boatswain,
+carpenter, Lieutenant Ewers, and three of the people, swam off, but the
+sea-breeze coming in, and the surf rising, the rest were discouraged from
+coming off; we hauled a good birth off the shore, where we lay the
+remainder of the day, and all the night. The greatness of the sea broke off
+our rudder-head, and we expected every minute the vessel would founder at
+her anchor. Thursday morning we saw no probability of the people coming
+aboard, and the wind coming out of the sea, and not one stick of fire-wood
+in the vessel to dress our victuals, and it being every man's opinion that
+we must put to sea or perish, we got up a scuttled cask, and put into it
+all manner of necessaries, with four small arms lashed to the cask, and a
+letter to acquaint them of our danger, which cask we saw them receive, as
+also the letter that was in it; they then fell on their knees, and made
+signals wishing us well, at which we got under sail, and left our brethren,
+whose names are under-mentioned,
+
+<pre>
+Sign'd by
+Robert Beans, lieutenant
+John King, boatswain
+John Bulkeley, gunner
+Thomas Clark, master
+John Cummins, carpenter
+Robert Elliot, surgeon's mate
+John Jones, master's mate
+John Snow, ditto.
+</pre>
+
+<p>The names of the people left on shore in the latitude of 35' 25 S.
+longitude 65: 00 W.
+
+<pre>
+    Names.        Where born.
+
+Guy Broadwater,   Blackwall.
+John Duck,        London.
+Samuel Cooper,    Ipswich.
+Benjamin Smith,   Southwark.
+Joseph Clinch,    Ditto.
+John Allen,       Gosport.
+John Andrews,     Manchester.
+Isaac Morris,     Topsham."
+</pre>
+
+<p>
+Those people had a good prospect of getting provisions, and we believe
+inhabitants are not far off; they have all necessaries for shooting; we
+hope to see them again, but at present we leave them to the care of
+Providence and the wide world. At noon sailed hence, at four in the
+afternoon could not clear the land, and were obliged to anchor in five
+fathom, two leagues from the shore, the northmost point of land bore N.E.
+by N. and the southmost point S. by W. Hard gales at E.N.E. and a great
+sea. At noon in latitude 38: 00.
+
+<p>Friday the 15th, fresh gales at N.N.W. and a great sea tumbling into the
+bay. We are not able to ride it out, therefore, at four in the afternoon,
+got under sail, and stood off to sea; the southmost land bore S.W. by S.
+distant five leagues.
+
+<p>Monday the 18th, in the latitude of 36: 29 S. the north point of
+Freshwater-Bay bearing S.W. distant forty-four leagues, we went to an
+allowance of water, at a pint a man per day, having on board not above
+twenty gallons for thirty-three souls.
+
+<p>Tuesday the 19th, little wind at S. and clear weather. At four this morning
+saw breakers right a-head; sounded, and found five fathom; saw the land
+making like an island, bearing N.E. by E. distant twelve leagues; steered
+N. for about a mile or two, shoaled the water from two fathom to nine feet,
+then steer'd N.N.E. and deepen'd the water to five fathom. By the
+appearance of the land, we are well up the river of Plate, and do take the
+breakers for the English bank. Steer'd and sail'd all day E.N.E. along
+shore, in the evening anchor'd in a fine sandy bay; saw two men coming down
+on horseback, the boatswain swam ashore, and got up behind one of them, and
+rode away to their caravans. When we made the land, we had not one drop of
+water on board: Several people swam ashore to fill water, one of 'em, when
+ashore, drank very plentifully of water; in attempting to come off, was so
+weak, that he could not reach the vessel, but was unfortunately drown'd.
+Got one cask of water aboard, which reviv'd us exceedingly.
+
+<p>Wednesday the 20th, Mr Cummins and myself went ashore, four of the
+inhabitants came down to us on horseback. As I could talk Portugueze, I
+fell into discourse with them. They told me the English were still at war
+with the Spaniards, that they had two fifty-gun ships up the river of
+Plate, and one sixty gun ship cruizing off Cape St Mary's; and not above
+six weeks ago a seventy gun ship lying at anchor, parted from her anchors
+and drove on shore; that the ship was lost, and every man perish'd. They
+also told me they were Spaniards, Castilians, and fishermen, that they came
+here a fishing, the fish they took they salted and dried, then sold them at
+Buenos Aires. The town they belong'd to they called Mount de Vidia, two
+days journey from hence. I ask'd 'em how they came to live in the king of
+Portugal's land. They said there were a great many Spanish settlements on
+this side, and gave us an invitation to their caravan; we got up behind
+them, and rode about a mile to it, where they entertained us with good junk
+beef, roasted and boyl'd, with good white bread. We sought to buy some
+provisions of 'em, but they had none but twenty-six loaves, about as big as
+two-penny loaves in England, which they would not part with under four
+guineas. We being in a weak condition, scarce able to stand on our legs,
+and without bread for a long time, gave them their price. Their patron told
+us at the same time, if it should be known that they had supplied us, they
+should be all hang'd. He promis'd, if we would give him a fire-lock, he
+would get us some wild fowl, and as many ducks in an hour or two as would
+serve all the people on board. Mr Cummins sent for his fire-lock, and gave
+it him, with some powder and sluggs. On our coming away, finding one of
+their company missing with a horse, we were apprehensive of his being gone
+to betray us; therefore immediately went on board, got our water in, and
+made all ready for sailing to Rio Grand.
+
+<p>Thursday the 21st, little wind at N.W. and fair weather. At four this
+morning got under sail, steered E.N.E. At twelve saw low land stretch off
+to the eastward, which bore E. by S. At four the tide of flood flowing
+strong in obliged us to come to an anchor in a large bay, in eight fathom
+water; the south point bore S.S.W. the east point E.S.E.; at eight at night
+got under sail, steering E.S.E.
+
+<p>Friday the 22d, little wind at N. and fair weather. At eight this morning
+saw Cape St Mary's, bearing N.W. distant ten leagues; at noon it bore
+W.S.W. and the north land S.E. by E.
+
+<p>Sunday 23d, little wind, and calm. In the morning, not seeing the land,
+steer'd in N.; at noon saw Cape St Mary's, bearing N.W. distant ten
+leagues; latitude per observation 34: 53 S. At seven in the evening, being
+in shore and calm, anchored in fourteen fathom water, sandy ground, the
+cape bearing W. by N. and the northmost land N. by E. This day departed
+this life Mr Thomas Clark the master, as did also his son the day
+following.
+
+<p>Sunday the 24th, the wind at S. and hazy weather. At two in the morning
+weighed and came to sail, steering N.E. within a league of the shore. At
+three in the afternoon saw three islands, the northmost of which is the
+most remarkable one I ever beheld, appearing like a church with a lofty
+tower; at four we saw three islands more, steer'd N. quarter W. between
+those islands, until we saw the main land. The most remarkable of these
+islands is about four miles from the main; they are all steep. At eight
+anchored in fourteen fathom, fine sand.
+
+<p>Monday the 25th, a fresh gale at E.N.E. and cloudy weather. At nine this
+morning got under sail, in order to go back to those islands to get some
+seal, there being great numbers on the rocks, and we in great want of
+provision, with the wind against us. We took the opportunity of the wind
+back to the islands, but were disappointed; being not able to get ashore
+for provisions, came to an anchor in fourteen fathom, sandy ground. Hard
+gales at N.N.E. with thunder, lightning and rain, all night.
+
+<p>Tuesday the 26th, this morning moderate gales at N.W. and fair weather, got
+under sail; after clear of the islands, steer'd N.E. by N. keeping along
+shore: It is a fine level land, and regular soundings fifteen fathom, five
+leagues off the land. We have no seal, nor any other kind of food on board.
+We have a fair wind, and not far from our desired port; so that we are in
+pretty good spirits. This day died the oldest man belonging to us, Thomas
+Maclean, cook, aged 82 years.
+
+<p>Wednesday the 27th, moderate gales at W. steered N. and sail'd all day
+within a cable's length of the shore in three fathom water. We have now
+nothing but a little water to support nature. At noon had an observation,
+latitude in 32: 40 south: I reckon myself 18 leagues from the Rio Grand,
+and hope to see it in the morning.
+
+<p>Thursday the 28th, kept the shore close aboard, and sounded every half
+hour, not caring to go within three fathom, nor keep without five, sailing
+along by the lead all night. At six in the morning saw the opening of the
+river Grand; kept within the breakers of the bar, having at some times not
+above seven feet water at half flood; steer'd N.E. by E. until the river's
+mouth was fairly open; then steer'd N. and N.N.W. until abreast of the
+town; anchored on the east shore in two fathom water. There presently came
+a boat from the shore, with a serjeant of the army, and one soldier. The
+lieutenant, myself, and Mr Cummins, with Captain P----n of the land forces,
+went on shore with them. The commandant, the officers, and people of the
+place, receiv'd us in a most tender and friendly manner. They instantly
+sent on board to the people four quarters of beef, and two bags of Farine
+bread. We were conducted to the surgeon's house, the handsomest habitation
+in the place, where we were most hospitably entertain'd. At four in the
+afternoon the governor came to town; After a strict enquiry into our
+misfortunes, and the reasons of our coming into this port, being somewhat
+doubtful that we might be inspectors of their coast, he began to examine
+me, the lieutenant having reported me to him as pilot. He ask'd me if there
+was a chart of the coast on board; and, if not, how it was possible we
+could hit the bar, and venture into so hazardous a place as this is? I told
+him, as for a chart, we had none of any kind, but I had a good observation
+the day before, that our vessel drew but a small draught of water, that we
+kept a lead always going, and in the necessity we were in, we were oblig'd,
+at all events, to venture, and if we had not seen the opening of the river
+before night, we must have been compell'd to run the vessel ashore. He
+examin'd me also concerning the places we stopt at, from Cape Virgin Mary
+to this port, and more particularly relating to the river Plate. He was
+very nice in his enquiry of our putting in at Cape St Mary's, and of the
+bearings and distance along shore from thence to this port. When he
+thoroughly satisfy'd himself, he embraced us and blest himself to think of
+our deliverance, which he term'd a miracle. He offer'd every thing the
+country could afford to our relief; the sick were order'd to be taken care
+of in the hospital: He took the lieutenant and the land officers home with
+him, and desired the commandant to see that the rest of the officers and
+people wanted for nothing. Before he went he inform'd us, that his
+majesty's ships the Severn and Pearl were at Rio Janeiro, in great
+distress; that they had sent to England for men, and could not sail from
+thence until the arrival of the Flota, which would be in May or June. He
+also told us, that we should be dispatch'd in the first vessel which
+arriv'd in this port, for he did not think we could with safety go any
+farther in our own, and that there could not be found twelve seamen in the
+Brazils that would venture over the bar in her to sail to Rio Janeiro;
+therefore he order'd our little Speedwell ashore: This wonder the people
+are continually flocking to see; and it is now about nine months since we
+were cast away in the Wager; in which time, I believe, no mortals have
+experienc'd more difficulties and miseries than we have. This day may be
+justly stiled the day of our deliverance, and ought to be remember'd
+accordingly.
+
+<p>Sunday the 31st, little or nothing remarkable since the day we came in,
+only a wonderful change in our diet, live on the best the country can
+produce, and have plenty of every thing. This afternoon the governor,
+commandant, and commissary, came on board, to see our little Speedwell;
+they were surpriz'd that thirty souls, the number of people now living,
+could be stowed in so small a vessel; but that she could contain the number
+which first embark'd with us was to them amazing, and beyond all belief:
+They could not conceive how the man at the helm could steer without falling
+overboard, there not being above four inches rise from the deck. I told
+them he sat down, and clapp'd his feet against the rise, and show'd them in
+what manner we secured ourselves. The governor, after viewing the vessel
+over, told us, we were more welcome to him in the miserable condition we
+arriv'd than if we had brought all the wealth in the world with us. At the
+same time he fully assur'd us, we should be supply'd with every thing that
+the country could afford; that he would dispatch us the first opportunity
+to Rio Janeiro, and whenever we stood in need of any thing, he order'd us
+to acquaint the commandant, and our wants should be instantly supply'd. He
+then took leave of us, and wished us well. All the deference and dutiful
+respect we could shew him, to express a grateful sense of his favour, was
+by manning the vessel, and giving him three cheers. The next day arriv'd at
+this place the brigadier-governor of the island St Catharine; he came close
+by our vessel, we mann'd her, and gave him three cheers. The soldiers of
+the garrison, having twenty months arrears due to them, expected the
+brigadier was coming to pay them, but when they found themselves
+disappointed, they made a great disturbance among themselves. I apply'd to
+the commandant for a house, the vessel, in rainy weather, not being fit to
+live in; he order'd me one joining to his own, and gave me the key. I took
+with me Mr Cummins, Mr Jones, Mr Snow, Mr Oakley, and the cooper; we
+brought our trifling necessaries on shore, and remov'd to our new
+habitation: Here we were dry and warm, and though we had no bedding, we
+lodg'd very comfortably. Since the loss of the Wager, we have been used to
+lie hard; at present we think ourselves very happily fix'd, and heartily
+wish that all the persons who surviv'd the loss of the ship were in so good
+a situation as ourselves.
+
+<p>Tuesday, February the 2d, 1741-2, great murmurings among the soldiers; they
+detain'd the brigadier from going back, as he intended, this morning, till
+he promis'd to dispatch the money, cloaths, and provisions, and to see
+their grievances adjusted. On those terms they have agreed he shall go; and
+this evening he return'd for St Catharine's. We apprehended, till now, that
+the right officers were in place; but we find ourselves mistaken. Some time
+before we arrived here, there was an insurrection among the soldiers: Their
+design was against the governor; but by his address, and fair promises of
+seeing them righted, he diverted the storm from himself, and got himself
+continued in his station, as were also the major and commissary. The
+soldiers dismiss'd the rest of the officers, and supply'd their places with
+their own people; though they were lately private men, they appear'd very
+grand, and were not distinguish'd in dress from proper officers. The
+disturbance at Rio Grand is of no service to us, for we feel the effects of
+it, our allowance is now so small that it will hardly support nature, the
+people have been without Farina, which is their bread, for some days past.
+We apply'd to the governor, who promis'd to supply us the next day;
+accordingly we went for a supply, which created fresh murmurings among the
+soldiers; however we got a small quantity of bread to supply us for ten
+days. The store-keeper shew'd me all the provisions, which, considering
+there were a thousand to draw their subsistence from it, was a small stock
+indeed, and not above six weeks at the present allowance. He told me we
+were serv'd equally with the soldiers, and when more stores came, which
+they shortly expected, our allowance should be encreas'd. I think, in
+reason, this is as much as we can expect. The lieutenant not coming nigh us
+since our first landing, I went with the people up to him at the
+governor's, about two miles from this port, to endeavour to prevail with
+him to get us dispatch'd, acquainting him of the call and necessity there
+was for our assistance on board the two distress'd ships at Rio Janeiro. He
+said he had spoke to the governor, and could not get us dispatch'd till
+another vessel came in. I told him, as the garrison were in want of
+provisions, what we were living on here would carry us off, and if any
+misfortune should attend the vessel expected in with the provisions, we
+should be put very hard to it for a subsistence. He promis'd to acquaint
+the governor; on which I took my leave.
+
+<p>February the 17th, this evening came into this garrison three seamen,
+giving an account of their belonging to a vessel with provisions and stores
+for this place, from Rio Janeiro, that they had been from thence three
+months, and had been off the bar waiting an opportunity to come in; that
+not having any fresh water aboard, they were oblig'd to come to an anchor
+ten leagues to the southward of this port, that a canoe was sent with those
+three men to fill the water, but the wind coming in from the sea, and
+blowing hard, oblig'd the vessel to put to sea, and leave them ashore, from
+whence they travelled here, and believ'd the vessel was gone to St
+Catharine's. The governor, not satisfy'd with this report, took them for
+spies, and kept them as such. However, in a day or two afterwards, he
+dispatch'd a pilot and two seamen for the island St Catharine, to bring the
+vessel round, in case she should be there.
+
+<p>I took this opportunity of sending a letter by them to the Honourable
+Captain Murray, commander of his majesty's ship the Pearl, at Rio Janeiro;
+desiring them to order it to be dispatch'd by the first ship from St
+Catharine's to the Rio Janeiro.
+
+<p>"Honourable Sir,
+
+<p>"I take it as a duty incumbent on me to acquaint you that his majesty's
+ship the Wager was wrecked on a desolate island on the coast of Patagonia,
+in the latitude of 47 00 S. and W. longitude from the meridian of London 81
+30, on the 14th of May, 1741. After lengthening the longboat, and fitting
+her in the best manner we could, launched her on the 13th of October, and
+embarked and sailed, on the 14th, with the barge and cutter, to the number
+of eighty-one souls in all. Captain Cheap,--at his own request, tarried
+behind, with Lieutenant Hamilton, and Mr Elliot, the surgeon. After a long
+and fatiguing passage, coming through the Streights of Magellan, we arrived
+here the 28th of January, 1741-2, bringing into this port alive to the
+number of thirty, viz.
+
+<pre>
+Robert Beans, lieutenant
+John Bulkeley, gunner
+John Cummins, carpenter
+Robert Elliot, surgeon's mate
+John Jones, master's mate
+John Snow, ditto
+John Mooring, boatswain's mate
+John Young, cooper
+William Oram, carpenter's crew
+John King, boatswains
+Nicholas Griselham, seaman
+Samuel Stook, ditto
+James Mac Cawlo, ditto
+William Lane, ditto
+John Montgomery, ditto
+John George, ditto
+Richard East, ditto
+James Butler, ditto
+John Pitman, ditto
+Job Barns, seaman
+John Shoreham, ditto
+Thomas Edmunds, ditto
+Richard Powell, ditto
+Diego Findall, (the Portugueze boy).
+Captain Robert Pemberton, of his majesty's
+  land forces
+Lieutenants Ewers and Fielding, ditto
+Vincent Oakley, surgeon of ditto
+And two marines.
+</pre>
+
+<p>All which are living at present, and waiting an opportunity of a passage in
+a Portugueze vessel, our own not being in a condition to proceed any
+farther, having no sails, and being so bad in all other respects, that the
+governor will not suffer us to hazard our lives in her, but hath promised
+to dispatch us in the very first vessel that arrives in this port, where
+we, with impatience, are obliged to tarry. We humbly pay our duty to
+Captain Leg, praying the representation of this to him. From, Most
+honourable Sir, Yours, &amp;c."
+
+<p>Saturday the 20th, last night the three seamen which came here, as
+mention'd before, with five more of this place, attempted to run away with
+one of the large boats; but they were pursu'd and taken: Their design was
+for the river Plate, the wind then favouring them. This was evident, that
+the governor was right in his conjecture, and did not suspect them
+wrongfully; they are now prisoners in the guard-house. The next morning I
+went to the lieutenant, desiring him to apply to the governor for a pass
+and horses for myself, Mr Cummins, and John Young, to go by land to St
+Catharine's and St Francisco, where we need not doubt of a passage to his
+majesty's distress'd ships at Rio Janeiro: That it was our duty to hasten
+to their assistance: That he, the lieutenant, ought, the very day after our
+arrival into this port, without any regard to expence and charges, to have
+dispatch'd a special messenger by land, and then we might have been assur'd
+of a vessel before now. The lieutenant answer'd, he had a thought of
+enquiring at first coming about what I had mention'd, and of going himself,
+tho' it cost him fifty pounds; but he was inform'd it was impossible to go
+by land. I ask'd him, If so how came the brigadier from St Catharine's
+here? As for fatigue or trouble, whoever undertook to go, he must expect
+that; but there was no hardship to be encounter'd comparable to what we had
+already undergone. We lay here on expence to the king, without doing any
+service, and run the hazard of not only losing the opportunity of getting
+on board our own ships, but perhaps of missing the Flota, and of wintering
+here, therefore I begg'd he would entreat the governor to let us have
+horses and guides; which he promis'd to mention to the governor at dinner,
+and send me his answer in the afternoon without fail. I waited with
+impatience for this answer; but the lieutenant failing in his promise, was
+the occasion of my sending him this letter.
+
+<p>"Sir,
+
+<p>"I am sorry you should give me the liberty of telling you, you have not
+discharg'd your promise, by letting us know the governor's answer to what
+we requested: Which was, at our expence and charge, to go to the assistance
+of his majesty's ships at Rio Janeiro; since which time I am to inform you
+that we are in want of provision, having none of any kind allow'd us
+yesterday, and but one small fish per man for two days before. The meaning
+of which, I believe, is owing to you, by the endeavouring, through the
+persuasions of the persons you confide in, to blacken us, and in so vile a
+manner, that you seem unacquainted with the ill consequence, which may
+attend the touching a man's character. We know, and are fully convinced,
+from what has been done already, that nothing will be allow'd or granted us
+but by your means: Mr Cummins and myself ask no favour from you, but to use
+your endeavours to get us dispatches to the ships at Rio Janeiro, where
+every man must give account of his actions, and justice take place. If I am
+not mistaken, you told me that what we were supply'd with here was a bounty
+flowing from the generous spirit of the governor, and the gentlemen of the
+place. If this be the case, we ought to be very thankful indeed. I am
+surprized, sir, you don't see the grievances of the inhabitants here, and
+hear the soldiers murmurings for want of their arrears. If they should
+revolt at this juncture, we shall stand a very bad chance. I must acquaint
+you, sir, the vessel we came in is not so much out of repair, but that, if
+you can get canvas out of the store for sails, we can make 'em, and get
+ready for sailing in ten days time. And if the vessel expected here with
+supplies comes in a shorter time, our vessel will be ready fix'd for the
+use of the governor; and if one vessel should not be large enough to carry
+us all off, we can go in company. I imagine you know of the stores being
+robbed, and the disturbance among the soldiers, which must occasion
+uneasiness enough, without repeating grievances, where relief is not to be
+had. I beg, sir, you'll get us dispatch'd with all expedition to his
+majesty's service, that we may not lose the opportunity of joining the two
+ships and the Flota.
+
+<p>Sir, yours."
+
+<p>The next morning the lieutenant came down on horseback, being the first
+time of his appearing among us since we have been here, which is above
+three weeks; we went with him to the commandant, who promised we should not
+want fresh beef and fish, but as for bread there is none to be got. William
+Oram, one of the carpenter's crew, died this day in the hospital.
+
+<p>March the 6th, for several days the people very uneasy at the vessel's not
+arriving, the wind having been fair for above three weeks past, and little
+or no provisions in store, which makes them doubtful of any to be
+dispatch'd to their relief. This day we are resolv'd to go by land, if the
+governor will only allow us a guide; we acquainted the lieutenant with our
+resolution; he went with me and Mr Jones to the governor, we obtain'd leave
+to go, with the promise of a guide. Captain Pemberton, being at the
+governor's, desired to go with us; the governor told him the journey was so
+difficult and tedious, it would be impossible for him to encounter with it.
+The captain answer'd, that he had a company on board his majesty's ship the
+Severn, where his duty call'd him, and was determin'd, with the governor's
+leave, to share his fate with us by land, which was granted. The governor
+told us, notwithstanding the present scarcity of provisions in the place,
+that he had so great a regard for an Englishman, that whilst he had any
+thing for himself, we should not want, for which we thank'd him heartily.
+This governor is certainly a gentleman of a noble generous spirit, of
+exceeding humanity and goodness, and I believe him to have a sincere regard
+for an Englishman.
+
+<p>March the 9th, this morning Mr Jones went over with me to the north side,
+to make an agreement for six people to go to St Catharine's; while we were
+here, the governor received letters from St Catharine's, which gave an
+account of four vessels on their passage for this port; on the news of this
+we put by our journey: It was very lucky we had not set out on this journey
+before we heard the news; for on the nineteenth, the vessels for Rio
+Janeiro arrived, and brought an account that the Severn and Pearl were
+sail'd from thence for the island of Barbadoes. Those vessels not only
+brought the soldiers provisions, but also a pardon.
+
+<p>On the 20th, the brigadier arriv'd, and had all the soldiers drawn up,
+where their pardon was read to them: He acquainted them with what money was
+come, which was not above a third part of their arrears, but the remainder
+was on the passage. The money he had for them should be paid directly, as
+far as it would go, if they would take it; but they cry'd out with one
+voice, The whole or none, and a great disturbance there was, some was for
+revolting to the king of Spain, some began to change their notes, and were
+for taking part of the money, and the rest insisted upon the whole. To
+quell this disturbance, the commandant, whom they look'd upon more than the
+brigadier, or the governor, used his utmost endeavours. They told the
+commandant they were no longer soldiers than while they were in the king's
+pay, and let those who are for the king, draw off one way by themselves;
+you are our commander, we trust in you to answer for us, what you do we
+will stand by with our lives: On which the commandant deliver'd his command
+up, shouldering his firelock, and took the place of a common soldier,
+telling them, since the king was so good as to pardon them, he thought it
+his duty to accept it. The brigadier was so well pleased with the behaviour
+of the commandant, that he ran to him, took him in his arms, and embraced
+him: The rest of the soldiers follow'd the example of their late
+commandant, delivering their respective commands up to their proper
+officers. This day put an end to the disturbance and confusion which had
+been some time among them, and restor'd them to tranquillity, good
+discipline, and order.
+
+<p>March the 22d, this morning went to the lieutenant for leave to go in the
+first vessel, which was expected to sail in four days time: He told me he
+expected to go in her himself, and that we could not go off all in one
+vessel, there might be room for the officers, but the people must wait
+another opportunity. I told him that it was a duty incumbent on the
+officers that were in pay particularly to take care of the people; You,
+sir, have been sure of half-pay ever since the ship was lost; we are not,
+but I will tarry myself behind with the people, and be answerable for them,
+if you'll give me a note under your hand to secure me the value of my pay,
+from the loss of the ship, otherwise I don't know any business I have but
+to endeavour to get to England as soon as I can, and will put it out of
+your power to prevent my going off in the first vessel. I left the
+lieutenant, and went with Mr Cummins, Mr Jones, Mr Snow, M. King, and Dr
+Oakley to the governor, to obtain leave for our going, the lieutenant
+follow'd us, and said, but one half could go at a time. The governor told
+us it was order'd that the land-officers, myself and the rest that apply'd
+to go by land, should be the first dispatch'd, and might go on board when
+we would, but as the vessel did not belong to the king, we must buy
+provisions, and pay for our passage. I said, Sir, we have not money to
+answer the expence: He then ask'd me whether I had not several times
+apply'd to him for leave to go by land at my own charges? I answer'd, We
+were obliged to dispose of our watches to raise that money, which will
+barely be sufficient to carry us six off that intended to go by land,
+therefore what must become of the rest who have not a single penny? And I
+hope, sir, that you are not unacquainted that the king of Great-Britain
+allows to all his subjects, distress'd in this manner, five vintins per day
+to each man for subsistence. On my saying this, the governor call'd the
+commissary and major: He walk'd and talk'd with them aside; then came back
+again, and told us the account was so small, that it was not worth charging
+the king of England with it; therefore we must buy our own provisions, and
+pay our passage, and as to what we had received from them, we were welcome;
+upon which we thank'd them and came away. We then consulted with the
+lieutenant, to know what could be done with the people, and that as the
+vessel we came in was not fit to proceed any farther, it was to no purpose
+to leave her there; therefore we desired his consent to sell her, believing
+the money she would bring would be sufficient to carry us all off. To this
+proposal the lieutenant consented. We then apply'd to the master of the
+vessel, to know what he would have for our passage; his demand was forty
+shillings per man, of which we acquainted the lieutenant, who told us he
+could not see what we could do, and, on second consideration, would not
+give his consent to sell the boat, for when sold, he did not think she
+would fetch the money. Those words of the lieutenant put us all to a stand,
+especially after he had but now given his consent to sell her, and in so
+short time to declare the reverse was very odd; tho' indeed it did not much
+surprise us, because this gentleman was never known to be over stedfast to
+his word. Seeing no possibility of carrying the people off without selling
+the boat, I told the lieutenant, if he left them behind, I could not think
+but so many of his majesty's subjects were sold, and believ'd he had made a
+present of the vessel to the governor. At this the lieutenant paus'd for a
+while, and then said, he had not money to carry himself off without selling
+his coat. I reply'd, There was no occasion for that, when he had a gold
+watch. The next morning went to the lieutenant again about our going off;
+he acquainted us, that the brigadier had order'd things in another manner;
+that myself, and nine more, being the persons desirous of going, should be
+dispatch'd in the first vessel, and every thing found us; that he, the
+lieutenant, was to tarry behind with the rest of the people, and to come in
+the next vessel, an estimate of the charges being made out; and he also
+told us, he had a severe check for requesting to go first himself, and
+offering to leave the people behind.
+
+<p>Sunday, March 28th, I embark'd on board the St Catharine's brigantine, with
+the carpenter, boatswain, the two mates, the surgeon of marines, the
+cooper, and six of the people, the provisions laid in for us were two casks
+of salt beef and ten alcadoes of farina.
+
+<p>Wednesday the 31st, we sail'd for Rio Janeiro, with the wind at W., steer'd
+S.E. and S.E. by E., until over the bar; then E. by N., and E.N.E., with a
+fine gale, and clear weather; there is not above two fathom and half water
+on the bar at high-water; when you are in, it is a fine commodious harbour
+for small vessels; it is a low land, of a sandy soil: Here is abundance of
+fine cattle, with fresh-water fish, melons exceeding good, plenty of water,
+and the best milk I ever tasted.
+
+<p>Thursday, April the 8th, little wind at S.W., and fair weather. At ten this
+morning anchor'd before the town of St Sebastians. The Portugueze pilots,
+who have been in England, call the land here the Isle of Wight; and indeed
+it is very like it, tho' not so large, being only eight miles in length.
+This is a very secure harbour for shipping; a stranger may go in or out
+without any difficulty. At this place I was ashore, and think it as
+delightful and pleasant a place as ever I saw in America, abounding with
+fruit, as oranges, lemons, bonanoes; also with yams, potatoes, fish, and
+fowl.
+
+<p>Saturday the 10th, sail'd from St Sebastians, little wind at S.W., steer'd
+out S.E. between the island and the main; at eight in the morning, on the
+Monday following, we anchor'd before the city of Rio Janeiro.
+
+<p>Tuesday the 13th, this morning we were all order'd before the governor. A
+Dutch surgeon was sent for, who spoke very good English. After enquiring
+into our misfortunes, the governor order'd him to be our consul, telling
+us, that we should have a convenient house, with firing, and eight vintins
+a man per day subsistence-money: He also desir'd we might make no
+disturbance among ourselves, which we promis'd to avoid. A nobleman went
+with the consul to look out for our habitation; they fix'd on a large
+magnificent house, fit for a person of quality. This being the first day of
+our coming ashore, they were pleas'd to order a dinner and supper out of
+doors, and sent us where we were to eat all together. This was the first
+time of the boatswain's eating with the rest of the officers since we left
+Cheap island. The consul was so kind as to send us a table, benches, and
+water-pots, and several useful things, from his own house; we thought
+ourselves very happily seated.
+
+<p>Wednesday the 14th, this morning the consul went with the officers and
+people to the treasury for our money. Mr Oakely, surgeon of his majesty's
+land-forces, was desired by the consul to sign for it. The boatswain, who
+now look'd upon himself as our captain, was not a little displeas'd at
+this. When the money was receiv'd, the consul would have given it to the
+surgeon to pay us, but he excus'd himself, telling the consul the boatswain
+was a troublesome man, and it might occasion a disturbance, on which the
+consul was so good as to come and pay it himself. Being all together, he
+told us the governor had order'd us eight vintins a man per day; but at the
+same time had made a distinction between the officers and seamen, that the
+money received was to be paid in the manner following, viz. to the seamen
+six vintins per man, and the officers ten. The reason of this distinction
+was, that the seamen could go to work, when the officers could not, but
+must be oblig'd to live entirely on their allowance. This distinction
+caused great uneasiness, the boatswain insisting that the people had a
+right to an equal share with us. The officers, willing to make all things
+easy, desir'd the consul it might be so. The consul reply'd, The money
+should be dispos'd of according to the governor's direction, or not at all.
+The boatswain then objected against the cooper, because he was no officer.
+The consul said, Master! I believe the cooper to be a very good quiet man,
+and I dare say will take it as the men do, but sooner than this be an
+objection, I will pay the money out of my own pocket. The boatswain then
+began at me, abusing me in a very scandalous and abominable manner, saying,
+among other things, that the cooper was got among the rest of the pirates,
+for so he term'd me and the rest of the officers. When the money was paid,
+we acquainted the consul, that we had, till now, been separated from the
+boatswain, that he was of so perverse and turbulent a temper, and so
+abusive in speech, that we could not bear with him. The boatswain then
+chose to be with the people, and gave us the preference of the fore-room,
+where we desir'd to be by ourselves. There were two doors to our room, we
+lock'd both of them, and went to take a walk in the country: At our return,
+in the evening, we found the doors broke open, and a small sword belonging
+to me was broke an inch off the point, and the scabbard all in pieces. The
+boatswain had in his room an Irishman, whom he sent in on purpose to
+quarrel with us. This Irishman and Richard East, one of our own people,
+fell upon the cooper and me: East chose to engage with me, he struck me
+several times, he compelled me to stand in my own defence, and I soon
+master'd him. During this quarrel the carpenter call'd the guards, at the
+sight of whom the Irishman made his escape. I desir'd the guards to secure
+East a prisoner, but the officer told me he could not, unless I would go to
+prison with him. I told him it was my desire, and accordingly I went. The
+prison was in the governor's house. I had not been there but a few minutes
+before the governor sent for me; he enquir'd of the officer concerning the
+disturbance, and order'd me to my habitation, but detain'd East a prisoner.
+When I came home I found the boatswain and two renegadoes with him, all
+about the cooper. On seeing me, he repeated his former abusive words. He
+made us so uneasy in our lodging, that, to prevent murder, we were obliged
+to lie out of the house. Next morning Mr Oakley and Mr Cummins went to the
+consul; he came with them to the house, where we were all sent for; he told
+us it was very strange that people who had undergone so many hardships and
+difficulties could not agree lovingly together. We answer'd, we never used
+to mess together, and sooner than we would be with the boatswain, we would
+make it our choice to take a house in the country at our own expence. The
+boatswain, on hearing this, fell again into his usual strain of slander and
+abusive language, calling us rogues, villains, and pirates. It was the
+governor's first request that we might have no disturbance among us, yet
+the boatswain hath not suffer'd us to have a quiet minute since we have
+been here. The consul went with us two miles out of the city, at a fishing
+village, where we took a house at our own expence, to pay at the rate of
+ten shillings per month, there being seven of us in all, viz. myself, the
+carpenter, surgeon, the two mates, the cooper, and a seaman. Here we
+thought ourselves safe and secure. The next day, in the afternoon, two of
+the boatswain's friends, which had lately deserted from his majesty's
+service, and an Irish clerk with them, came to pay us a visit. They were so
+impertinent, as not only to enquire into the reasons of the disturbance
+among ourselves, but they also instructed us in our duty, telling us, they
+came from our commander the boatswain, with orders to see my journal. I
+told them the journal shou'd not be a secret to any person who cou'd read;
+but, at the same time, I wou'd never part with it to be copied out: They
+then drank a glass of punch with us, and left us. This is a place that a
+man is oblig'd sometimes to suffer himself to be used ill; if he resents
+all affronts, he runs a great hazard of losing his life, for here ruffians
+are to be hir'd at a small expence, and there is no place in the world
+where people will commit murder at so cheap a rate. Between nine and ten at
+night three people came to our door, one of which knock'd, telling us, that
+he was the person that was with me and the cooper in the afternoon. Being
+apprehensive that they came with no good intent, we refus'd opening the
+door, telling them, that it was an improper season of the night, and that
+we did not know they had any business with us, if they had, we told them to
+come in the morning: But they still insisted upon the door being open'd,
+saying, it would be better to do so than to be taken away in three hours'
+time. When they had said this, they went away. We did not know the meaning
+of their words, but imagin'd they were gone to bring some associates to
+beset the house; having nothing to defend ourselves with, we got over the
+back wall of the house, and took to the country for safety: In the morning
+apply'd to the consul, who remov'd us to a house in the midst of the
+village; he gave an account to the inhabitants of the design the boatswain
+had formed against us, either to compel us to deliver up the journal, or to
+take our lives; and therefore desir'd that the journal and papers might be
+deposited in the hands of a neighbour there, till the time of our going
+off. The people of the place offer'd to stand by us with their lives, in
+opposition to any persons who should attempt to do us an injury.
+
+<p>Sunday the 18th, early this morning we were sent for to the consul. He said
+to us, Gentlemen, as the lives of three of you are in danger, and I do not
+know what villainy your boatswain may be capable of acting, in regard to
+your peace and safety, I'll endeavour to get you three on board a ship
+bound for Bahia and Lisbon; accordingly he went to the captain of the ship,
+who consented that we should go with him, on these conditions, that the
+governor should give us a pass, and that we would work for our passage;
+this we agreed to. After this we requested the governor for a pass, which
+he was so good as to grant, and is as follows:
+
+<p>Nas Fortalesas sedeixem passar.
+
+<p><i>A 30 Abril</i>, 1742.
+
+<p>Podem passar par Portugal em qualquer Nao que selle ofreser semque che
+ponha Impedimento algum Bahia, 19 Mayo, 1742.
+
+<p>"Dizem Joan Bocli, e Joan Cummins, e Joan Menino, Inglezes de Nasao, e
+Cazados em Inglaterra, em quetem suas Mulleres e Fillios, que suedo
+Officais de Calafate, e Condestavel, &amp; Joneiro, de imadas Fragatas
+Inglezas, dado a Costa de Patagonia, die fesivel a portarem, a Oporto de
+Rio Grande, donde selhedeo faculdade para passarem aesta Cidade. E como
+Naferma do Regimendo de son soberano Nao vensem soldo, algum desde otempo,
+que Nao Pagau detta Fragata, selhes las presis a passarem a Inglaterra,
+para poderem tratar de sua vida em Compania de suas familias; para oghe
+pretendem na Naude Lisensia passar a Citade da Bahia, para da hi Opoderem
+farer para Lisboa, na primera ocasio, que che for posivell, e sim desda Nao
+podem intentar dito transporte.
+
+<p>Quaime sedigne dar che Lisensia que nas Fortalesas selhe nas ponha
+Impedimento a sua Passagein, Come e Costume aos Nacionaes decte Reyne.
+
+<p>A. Rove."
+
+<p>
+The foregoing in English thus.
+
+<p>
+<i>Rio Janeiro Grand.</i>
+
+<p>From all the Forts let them pass.
+
+<p><i>April</i> 30, 1742.
+
+<p>That they may pass to Portugal in any vessel that offers itself, without
+any hindrance whatever, to Bahia, May 19, 1742.
+
+<p>"John Bocli, [Bulkeley] John Cummins, and John Young, of the English
+nation, and married in England, where they have wives and children, the one
+being an officer, the other a carpenter, and the third cooper of the ship,
+being an English frigate, arrived on the coast of Patagonia; and at their
+arrival in the great river, i.e. Rio Grand, leave was granted them to come
+to this city; and as in the service of his majesty, they do not advance any
+money, from the time that they paid off the said ship, they are obliged to
+pass to England, that they may be enabled there to seek their livelihood
+for their respective families: Therefore they desire that they may pass in
+the license ship to the city of Bahia, that they may from thence go to
+Lisbon, by the first opportunity that shall offer; and that without the
+said ship they will not be able to perform their intended design.
+
+<p>Leave is hereby granted them to pass by the said ship for Bahia; and we
+command all the forts to let them pass, and not hinder their passage, as is
+the custom of the nation of this kingdom.
+
+<p>A. ROVE."
+
+<p>
+The following is a copy of the solicitor's certificate.
+
+<p>
+"ISTO he para que todos sabem que os Senhores Abaixo Nomeados y bem mal
+afortunados, nesta Cidade de Rio Janeiro se comporlarao com toda Dereysao
+nao dando escandalo Apesoa Alguma e Sao Dignos deque Joda pessoa posa os
+favoreser emoque for de Ajudo para Sigimento de sua Viagem omais breve
+possivel para Huropa.
+
+<p>JOHN BULKELEY.<br>
+JOHN CUMMINS.<br>
+JOHN YOUNG.
+
+<p>Hoje 1 de Mayo de 1742.
+
+<p>A sim que Assiney este Papel Como Procu<br>
+  rador Sosil da Nasao Britanica.<br>
+          PEDRO HENRIQUES DELAED."
+
+<p>In English thus.
+
+<p>"These Presents.
+
+<p>"Be it known to all persons, that the under-signed are in a deplorable
+condition in this city of Rio Janeiro; who have behaved themselves with
+decency and good decorum, not giving any scandal to any person whatsoever,
+and are worthy that all people may have compassion, and succour them in
+forwarding their voyage with all expedition to Europe.
+
+<p>JOHN BULKELEY.<br>
+JOHN CUMMINS.<br>
+JOHN YOUNG.
+
+<p><i>The 1st of May</i>, 1742.
+
+<p>I have sign'd this paper as a sollicitor of the British nation.
+
+<p>PEDRO HENRIQ; DELAED."
+
+<p>Tuesday, May the 20th, this evening myself, the carpenter, and cooper, went
+on board the St Tubes, one of the Brazil ships, carrying twenty-eight guns,
+Theophilus Orego Ferrara, commander, bound for Bahia and Lisbon. The people
+left on shore were,
+
+<pre>
+John Jones, Master's mate.
+John Snow, ditto.
+Vincent Oakley, surgeon.
+John King, boatswain.
+Samuel Stook, seaman.
+John Shoreham, ditto.
+John Pitman, ditto.
+Job Barns, ditto.
+Richard East, ditto.
+Richard Powell, ditto.
+</pre>
+
+<p>Wednesday the 21st, early this morning the captain came on board, on seeing
+us, he ask'd us, how we came on board without his leave? Notwithstanding he
+gave leave to the consul for our passage, we ought to have waited on him
+ashore. There was on board the ship a Spanish don, a passenger, who told
+the captain, no Englishman should go in the same ship with him, therefore
+desir'd we might be turn'd ashore; but the captain insisted upon doing what
+he pleas'd on board his own ship, and would not comply with his request.
+The Spanish don, when we came to converse with him, was very much mov'd
+with the relation of our misfortunes, and said to us, though our royal
+masters, the king's of England and Spain, are at war, it was not our fault;
+that we were now on board a neutral ship; belonging to a king who was a
+friend to both nations; that he would not look upon us as enemies, but do
+us all the service he could. He extoll'd the conduct and bravery of Admiral
+Vernon at Porto Bello; but, above all, applauded him for his humanity and
+generous treatment of his enemies. He made great encomiums on the
+magnificence of the British fleet, and the boldness and intrepidity of the
+sailors, styling the English the soldiers of the sea. He supplied us in our
+passage not only with provisions from his table, but also with wine and
+brandy; and during the whole voyage appear'd so different from an enemy,
+that he took all opportunities of giving us proofs of his generosity and
+goodness.
+
+<p>Friday, the 7th of May, 1742, this morning anchored before the city of
+Bahia, went on shore to the vice-roy, shew'd him the pass we had from the
+governor of Rio Janeiro: He told us the pass was to dispatch us to Lisbon,
+and that the first ship which sail'd from hence would be the ship we came
+in; we petition'd him for provisions, acquainting him of our reception at
+Rio Grand and Rio Janeiro, that we had hitherto been supply'd at the rate
+of eight vintins each man per day. He refused supplying us with any thing,
+upon which I told him, we had better been prisoners to the king of Spain,
+who would allow us bread and water, than in a friend's country to be
+starv'd. The captain of the ship we came in, hearing the vice-roy would not
+supply us, was so kind as to go with us to him, acquainting him how we were
+provided for at Rio Janeiro, and that he would supply us himself, if he
+would sign an account to satisfy the consul general at Lisbon, so that he
+might be reimburs'd. The vice-roy answer'd, he had no orders concerning the
+English; that he had letters from the king of Portugal his master to supply
+the French, but had no orders about any other nation, and if he gave us any
+thing it must be out of his own pocket, therefore he would not supply us.
+The captain then told him, that we were officers and subjects to the king
+of England, and in distress; that we did not want great matters, and only
+barely enough to support life, and begg'd that he would allow but four
+vintins per day, being but half the sum hitherto allow'd us. The captain's
+entreaties avail'd nothing, the vice-roy continuing as fix'd in his
+resolution of giving us no relief. I do not believe there ever was a worse
+representative of royalty upon the face of the earth than this vice-roy;
+his royal master, the king of Portugal, is very well known to have a
+grateful affection for the British nation (nor can we believe he is so
+Frenchify'd as this vice-roy makes him) his deputy differs greatly from
+him, he has given a proof of his aversion to the English. We think persons
+in the distress we were represented in to him, could in no part of the
+world, nay, in an enemy's country, be treated with more barbarity than we
+were here: We work'd here for our victuals, and then could get but one meal
+per day, which was farina and caravances. At this place we must have
+starv'd, if I had not by me some money and a silver watch of my own, which
+I was obliged to turn into money to support us. I had in money fourteen
+guineas, which I exchanged with the captain who brought us here for
+Portugueze money; he at the same time told me, it would be hard upon me to
+be so much out of pocket, and said, if I would draw a bill on the consul
+general at Lisbon for the sum, as if supplied from him, upon the payment of
+that bill, he would return me my fourteen guineas; accordingly a bill was
+drawn up by an English merchant at Bahia and sign'd by us, being as
+follows:
+
+<p>"Nos abaixo asignados Joam Bulkeley, Joam Cummins, &amp; Joam Young, Vassalos
+de sua Magg de Brittanica El Rey Jorge Segundo, declaramos que temos
+recebido da mam do Snor' Cappam de Mar e Guerra Theodorio Rodrigues de
+Faria a coanthia de Corenta eloatra Mil e Oito Centos reis em dinheiro
+decontado comque por varias vezes nos Secorreo para o Nosso Sustento des o
+dia 17 de Mayo proximo passado athe odia Prezente, por cuja caridade
+rogamos a Deos conceda mera saud Born succesto e por este pedimos humildeme
+te ao Snor' Consul Geral da Mesma Nacao que Aprezentado que este Seja nao'
+duvide em Mandar Sattis fazer as sobredito Snor' Cappam de Mar e Guerra a
+refferida coanthia visto ser expendida em Obra pia e que o Estado da nossa
+Mizeria epobreza tre nao' pode pagar e por passar na Verdade o Refferido e
+nao' sabermos Escrever pedimos a Gabriel Prynn homem de Negocio nesta
+Cidade e Interprete de Ambas as Lingoas ou Idosmas que este por Nos fizese
+e Como Testemunha Asignase.
+
+<p>Sao 44 800 re. Bahia, 14 Setembro, 1742.
+
+<p>JOHN BULKELEY.<br>
+JOHN CUMMINS.<br>
+JOHN YOUNG.
+
+<p>Como Testsmunha que fix a rogo dos Sobreditos,<br>
+GABRIEL PRYNN."
+
+<p>The foregoing in English thus.
+
+<p>
+"We, the undersign'd John Bulkeley, John Cummins, and John Young, subjects
+of his majesty King George the Second, King of Great Britain, do declare to
+have received from the honourable captain of sea and land, Theodore
+Rodriques of Faria, the sum of fourty-four thousand and eight hundred rees,
+in ready and lawful money, by different times, for our support and succour
+from the 17th of May instant, to this present date: And, for the said
+charily, we implore the Almighty to grant him health and prosperity. And on
+this account, we humbly desire the consul of the same nation, that, by
+these presents, he may not omit giving full satisfaction to the above-
+mention'd captain of sea and land, for the said sum, it being employed on a
+very charitable account, being in a deplorable condition, and not able to
+repay the same; and we not knowing in what manner to write, to acknowledge
+the above favours, have desired Mr Gabriel Prynn, a merchant in this city,
+and interpreter of both languages, that he may act for us; and we leave it
+to him to do in this affair as it shall seem meet unto him; and as a
+witness to this matter he hath sign'd his name.
+
+<p>Say 44 100. Bahia, the 14th September, 1742.
+
+<p>JOHN BULKELEY.<br>
+JOHN CUMMINS.<br>
+JOHN YOUNG.
+
+<p>To the veracity of the above assertion I have sign'd my name,
+
+<p>GABRIEL PRYNN."
+
+<p>Since our being here, we have been inform'd of one of his majesty's ships
+with three store-ships being arriv'd at Rio Janeiro, supply'd with stores
+and men for the relief and assistance of the Severn and Pearl, (which were
+sail'd before in January last for Barbadoes) and that our people were gone
+on board of them, and bound for the West Indies.
+
+<p>Here is a very good bay for ships to ride in, with the wind from E.S.E., to
+the northward and westward back to the S.W., and wind to the southward,
+which blows in and makes a very great sea. At the east side coming in,
+standeth Point de Gloria, where is a very large fortification with a tower
+in the midst: From this point the land rises gradually; about a league from
+hence is the city of Bahia; it is surrounded with fortifications, and
+equally capable of defending it against any attempts from the sea or land.
+
+<p>Provisions here of all kinds are excessive dear, especially fish; this we
+impute to the great number of whales that come into this bay, even where
+the ships lye at anchor; the whale-boats go off and kill sometimes seven or
+eight whales in a day, the flesh of which is cut up in small pieces, then
+brought to the market-place, and sold at the rate of a vintin per pound; it
+looks very much like coarse beef, but inferior to it in taste. The whales
+here are not at all equal in size to the whales in Greenland, being not
+larger than the grampus. After living here above four months without any
+relief from the governor or the inhabitants, who behaved to us as if they
+were under a combination to starve us, we embark'd on board the St Tubes
+with our good friend the captain who brought us from Rio Janeiro: We sail'd
+from Bahia the 11th of September for Lisbon, in company with one of the
+king of Portugal's ships of war, and two East India ships, but the St Tubes
+not being able to sail so well as the other ships, lost sight of them the
+first night. About 70 leagues from the westward of Madeira we bent a new
+foresail; within two or three days afterwards, we had a very hard gale of
+wind, scudding under the foresail, and no danger happening to the ship
+during this gale. When the wind had ceas'd, and we had fair weather, the
+captain, after the evening mass, made an oration to the people, telling
+them that their deliverance from danger in the last gale of wind, and the
+ship though leaky, making no more water than before, was owing to their
+prayers to Nuestra Senhora Boa Mortua and her intercession: That in
+gratitude they ought to make an acknowledgement to that saint for standing
+their friend in time of need: That he himself would shew an example by
+giving the new fore-sail, which was bent to the yard, to the saint their
+deliverer: Accordingly one of the seamen went forward and mark'd out these
+words on the sail, <i>Deal esta Trinchado pour nostra Senhora Boa Mortua</i>,
+which is as much as to say, <i>I give this foresail to our saint, the
+deliverer from death</i>. The sail and money collected on this occasion
+amounted to upwards of twenty moydores.
+
+<p>On Monday, the 23d of November, in the latitude 39: 17 north, and longitude
+6:00 W., that day at noon the rock of Lisbon bearing S. by W., distant
+sixteen leagues; we steer'd E.S.E., to make the rock before night. At four
+o'clock it blew a very hard gale, and right on the shore: The ship lay-to
+under a foresail, with her head to the southward; at six it blew a storm;
+the foresail splitting, oblig'd us to keep her before the wind, which was
+running her right ashore. The ship was now given over for lost, the people
+all fell to prayers, and cry'd out to their saints for deliverance,
+offering all they had in the world for their lives, and yet at the same
+time neglecting all means to save themselves; they left off pumping the
+ship, though she was exceeding leaky. This sort of proceeding in time of
+extremity is a thing unknown to our English seamen; in those emergencies
+all hands are employ'd for the preservation of the ship and people, and if
+any of them fall upon their knees, 'tis after the danger is over. The
+carpenter and myself could by no means relish this behaviour; we begg'd the
+people for God's sake to go to the pumps, telling them we had a chance to
+save our lives, while we kept the ship above water, that we ought not to
+suffer the ship to sink, while we could keep her free. The captain and
+officers hearing us pressing them so earnestly, left off prayers, and
+entreated the men to keep the pumps going, accordingly we went to pumping,
+and preserv'd ourselves and the ship: In half an hour afterwards the wind
+shifted to the W.N.W., then the ship lay south, which would clear the
+course along shore; had the wind not shifted, we must in an hour's time
+have run the ship ashore. This deliverance, as well as the former, was
+owing to the intercession of Nuestra Senhora Boa Mortua: On this occasion
+they collected fifty moydores more, and made this pious resolution, that
+when the ship arrived safe at Lisbon, the foresail, which was split in the
+last gale of wind, should be carried in procession to the church of this
+grand saint, and the captain should there make an offering equal in value
+to the foresail, which was reckon'd worth eighteen moydores.
+
+<p>On Saturday, the 28th of November, we arrived at Lisbon, and on the next
+morning every person who came in the ship, (excepting the carpenter,
+myself, and the cooper) officers, passengers, the Spanish don himself, and
+all the people, men and boys, walk'd bare-footed, with the foresail, in
+procession, to the church of Nuestra Senhora Boa Mortua; the weather at
+that time being very cold, and the church a good mile distant from the
+landing-place. We Englishmen, when we came ashore, went immediately on the
+Change. I was pretty well known to some gentlemen of the English factory.
+When I inform'd them that we were three of the unfortunate people that were
+cast away in the Wager, and that we came here in one of the Brazil ships,
+and wanted to embrace the first opportunity of going for England, they told
+me, that the lieutenant had been before us, that he was gone home in the
+packet-boat, and left us a very indifferent character. I answer'd, I
+believ'd the lieutenant you'd give but a very bad account of himself,
+having kept no journal, nor made any remarks since the loss of the ship,
+nor perhaps before; that we doubted not but to acquit ourselves of any
+false accusations, having with us a journal, which gave an impartial
+relation of all our proceedings. The journal was read by several gentlemen
+of the factory, who treated us, during our stay at Lisbon, with exceeding
+kindness and benevolence.
+
+<p>On the 20th of December, we embark'd on board his majesty's ship the
+Stirling Castle for England: Here we had again the happiness of
+experiencing the difference between a British and a foreign ship,
+particularly in regard to cleanliness, accommodation, diet, and discipline.
+We met with nothing material in our passage, and arrived at Spithead on the
+1st of January, 1742-3. Here we thought of nothing but going ashore
+immediately to our families, but were told by the captain, we must not stir
+out of the ship till he knew the pleasure of the l----ds of the A----y,
+having already wrote to them concerning us. This was a very great
+affliction to us, and the more so, because we thought our troubles at an
+end. The carpenter and myself were in view of our habitations; our families
+had long given us over for lost, and on the news of our safety, our
+relatives look'd upon us as sons, husbands, and fathers, restor'd to them
+in a miraculous manner. Our being detain'd on board gave them great
+anxiety; we endeavour'd to console 'em as well as we could, being assured,
+that we had done nothing to offend their l----s; that if things were not
+carried on with that order and regularity which is strictly observ'd in the
+navy, necessity drove us out of the common road. Our case was singular;
+since the loss of the ship, our chiefest concern was for the preservation
+of our lives and liberties, to accomplish which, we acted according to the
+dictates of nature, and the best of our understanding. In a fortnight's
+time, their l----ps order'd us at liberty, and we instantly went ashore to
+our respective habitations, having been absent from thence about two years
+and six months.
+
+<p>After we had staid a few days with our families, we came to London, to pay
+our duties to the l----ds of the A----y. We sent in our journal for, their
+l----ps' inspection: They had before received a narrative from the l----t,
+which narrative he confesses to be a relation of such things as occur'd
+to his memory; therefore of consequence could not be so satisfactory as a
+journal regularly kept. This journal lay for some time in the a----y
+o----e, when we were order'd to make an abstract, by way of narrative, that
+it might not be too tedious for their l----ps' perusal. After the narrative
+was examined into, their l----ps, upon our petition, were pleased to fix a
+day for examining all the officers lately belonging to the Wager. The
+gentlemen appointed to make enquiry into the whole affair were three
+commanders of ships, persons of distinguish'd merit and honour. However, it
+was afterwards thought proper not to admit us to any examination, till the
+arrival of the commodore, or else Captain Cheap. And it was also resolv'd,
+that not a person of us should receive any wages, or be employed in his
+majesty's service, till every thing relating to the Wager was more plain
+and conspicuous. There was no favour shewn in this case to one more than
+another, so that every body seem'd easy with their l----ps' resolution. All
+that we have to wish for now is the safe arrival of the commodore and
+Captain Cheap: We are in expectation of soon seeing the former, but of the
+captain we have as yet no account. However, we hope, when the commodore
+shall arrive, that the character he will give of us will be of service to
+us: He was very well acquainted with the behaviour of every officer in his
+squadron, and will certainly give an account of them accordingly.
+
+<h4>END OF VOLUME SEVENTEENTH.</h4>
+
+
+<pre>
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A General History and Collection of
+Voyages and Travels, Volume 17, by Robert Kerr
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES AND TRAVELS ***
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+</pre>
+
+</body>
+</html>
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A General History and Collection of Voyages
+and Travels, Volume 17, by Robert Kerr
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Volume 17
+       Arranged in Systematic Order: Forming a Complete History
+       of the Origin and Progress of Navigation, Discovery, and
+       Commerce, by Sea and Land, from the Earliest Ages to the
+       Present Time
+
+Author: Robert Kerr
+
+Release Date: March 21, 2005 [EBook #15425]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES AND TRAVELS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Robert Connal, Paul Ereaut and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team, from images generously made
+available by the Canadian Institute for Historical
+Microreproductions.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+A GENERAL HISTORY AND COLLECTION OF VOYAGES AND TRAVELS,
+
+ARRANGED IN SYSTEMATIC ORDER:
+
+FORMING A COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE ORIGIN AND PROGRESS OF NAVIGATION,
+DISCOVERY, AND COMMERCE, BY SEA AND LAND, FROM THE EARLIEST AGES TO THE
+PRESENT TIME.
+
+BY
+
+ROBERT KERR, F.R.S. & F.A.S. EDIN.
+
+ILLUSTRATED BY MAPS AND CHARTS.
+
+VOL. XVII.
+
+WILLIAM BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH:
+
+AND T. CADELL, LONDON.
+
+MDCCCXXIV.
+
+
+
+
+A GENERAL HISTORY AND COLLECTION OF VOYAGES AND TRAVELS,
+
+ARRANGED IN SYSTEMATIC ORDER:
+
+FORMING A COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE ORIGIN AND PROGRESS OF NAVIGATION,
+DISCOVERY, AND COMMERCE, BY SEA AND LAND, FROM THE EARLIEST AGES TO THE
+PRESENT TIME.
+
+BY
+
+ROBERT KERR, F.R.S. & F.A.S. EDIN.
+
+ILLUSTRATED BY MAPS AND CHARTS.
+
+VOL. XVII.
+
+EDINBURGH:
+
+_Printed by James Ballantyne & Co_.
+
+FOR WILLIAM BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH;
+J. MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET; BALDWIN, CRADOCK AND
+JOY, AND GALE AND FENNER, PATERNOSTER-ROW,
+LONDON; AND J. CUMMING, DUBLIN.
+
+1816.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS TO VOL. XVII.
+
+
+CHAP.
+V. _Continued_. Captain King's Journal of the Transactions on
+returning to the Sandwich Islands.
+
+  SECT.
+  VI. General Account of the Sandwich Islands. Their Number, Names, and
+  Situation. OWHYHEE. Its Extent, and Division into Districts. Account of
+  its Coasts, and the adjacent Country. Volcanic Appearances. Snowy
+  Mountains. Their Height determined. Account of a Journey into the
+  Interior Parts of the Country. MOWEE. TAHOOHOWA. MOROTOI. RANAI. WOAHOO.
+  ATOOI. ONEEHEOW. OREEHOUA. TAAOORA. Climate. Winds. Currents. Tides.
+  Animals and Vegetables. Astronomical Observations.
+
+  VII. General Account of the Sandwich Islands continued. Of the
+  Inhabitants. Their Origin. Persons. Pernicious effects of the Ava.
+  Numbers. Disposition and Manners. Reasons for supposing them not
+  Cannibals. Dress and Ornaments. Villages and Houses. Food. Occupations
+  and Amusements. Addicted to Gaming. Their extraordinary Dexterity in
+  Swimming. Arts and Manufactures. Curious Specimens of their Sculpture.
+  Kipparee, or Method of Painting Cloth. Mats. Fishing Hooks. Cordage.
+  Salt Pans. Warlike Instruments.
+
+  SECT. VIII. General Account of the Sandwich Islands continued.
+  Government. People divided into three Classes. Power of Erreetaboo.
+  Genealogy of the Kings of Owhyhee and Mowee. Power of the Chiefs. State
+  of the inferior Class. Punishment of Crimes. Religion. Society of
+  Priests. The Orono. Their Idols. Songs chanted by the Chiefs, before
+  they drink Ava. Human Sacrifices. Custom of Knocking out the fore Teeth.
+  Notions with regard to a future State. Marriages. Remarkable Instance of
+  Jealousy. Funeral Rites.
+
+CHAP.
+VI. Transactions during the second Expedition to the North, by the way of
+Kamtschatka; and on the Return Home by the way of Canton and the Cape of
+Good Hope.
+
+  SECT.
+  I. Departure from Oneheeow. Fruitless Attempt to discover Modoopapappa.
+  Course steered for Awatska Bay. Occurrences during that Passage. Sudden
+  Change from Heat to Cold. Distress occasioned by the Leaking of the
+  Resolution. View of the Coast of Kamtschatka. Extreme Rigour of the
+  Climate. Lose Sight of the Discovery. The Resolution enters the Bay of
+  Awatska. Prospect of the Town of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. Party sent
+  ashore. Their Reception by the Commanding-Officer of the Port. Message
+  dispatched to the Commander at Bolcheretsk. Arrival of the Discovery.
+  Return of the Messengers from the Commander. Extraordinary mode of
+  Travelling. Visit from a Merchant and a German Servant belonging to the
+  Commander.
+
+  II. Scarcity of Provisions and Stores at the Harbour of Saint Peter and
+  Saint Paul; A Party set out to visit the Commander at Bolcheretsk.
+  Passage up the River Awatska. Account of their Reception by the Toion of
+  Karatchin. Description of Kamtschadale Dress. Journey on Sledges.
+  Description of this Mode of Travelling. Arrival at Natcheekin. Account
+  of Hot Springs. Embark on Bolchoireka. Reception at the Capital.
+  Generous and hospitable Conduct of the Commander and the Garrison.
+  Description of Bolcheretsk. Presents from the Commander. Russian and
+  Kamtschadale Dancing. Affecting Departure from Bolcheretsk. Return to
+  Saint Peter and Saint Paul's, accompanied by Major Behm, who visits the
+  Ship. Generosity of the Sailors. Dispatches sent by Major Behm to
+  Petersburg. His Departure and Character.
+
+  III. Continuation of Transactions in the Harbour of St Peter and St
+  Paul. Abundance of Fish. Death of a Seaman belonging to the Resolution.
+  The Russian Hospital put under the Care of the Ship's Surgeons. Supply
+  of Flour and Cattle. Celebration of the King's Birth-day. Difficulties
+  in Sailing out of the Bay. Eruption of a Volcano. Steer to the
+  Northward. Cheepoonskoi Noss. Errors of the Russian Charts.
+  Kamptschatskoi Noss. Island of St. Laurence. View, from the same Point,
+  of the Coasts Asia and America, and the Islands of St. Diomede. Various
+  Attempts to get to the North, between the two Continents. Obstructed by
+  impenetrable Ice. Sea-horses and White Bears killed. Captain Clerke's
+  Determination and future Designs.
+
+  IV. Fruitless Attempts to penetrate through Ice to the North-West.
+  Dangerous Situation of the Discovery. Sea-horses killed. Fresh
+  Obstructions from the Ice. Report of Damages, received by the Discovery.
+  Captain Clerke's Determination to proceed to the Southward. Joy of the
+  Ships' Crews on that Occasion. Pass Serdze Kamen. Return through
+  Beering's Strait. Enquiry into the Extent of the North-East Coast of
+  Asia. Reasons for rejecting Muller's Map of the Promontory of the
+  Tschutski. Reasons for believing the Coast does not reach a higher
+  Latitude than 70-2/3 deg. North. General Observations on the
+  Impracticability of a North-East or North-West Passage from the Atlantic
+  into the Pacific Ocean. Comparative View of the Progress made in the
+  Years 1778 and 1779. Remarks on the Sea and Sea-coasts, North of
+  Beering's Strait. History of the Voyage resumed. Pass the Island of St.
+  Laurence. The Island of Mednoi. Death of Captain Clerke. Short Account
+  of his Services.
+
+  V. Return to the Harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. Promotion of
+  Officers. Funeral of Captain Clerke. Damages of the Discovery repaired.
+  Various other Occupations of the Ships' Crews. Letters from the
+  Commander. Supply of Flour and Naval Stores from a Russian Galliot.
+  Account of an Exile. Bear-hunting and Fishing Parties. Disgrace of the
+  Serjeant. Celebration of the King's Coronation Day, and Visit from the
+  Commander. The Serjeant reinstated. A Russian Soldier promoted at our
+  Request. Remarks on the Discipline of the Russian Army. Church at
+  Paratounca. Method of Bear-hunting. Farther Account of the Bears and
+  Kamtschadales. Inscription to the Memory of Captain Clerke. Supply of
+  Cattle. Entertainments on the Empress's Name Day. Present from the
+  Commander. Attempt of a Marine to desert. Work out of the Bay. Nautical
+  and Geographical Description of Awatska Bay. Astronomical Tables and
+  Observations.
+
+  VI. General Account of Kamtschatka. Geographical Description. Rivers.
+  Soil. Climate. Volcanoes. Hot Springs. Productions. Vegetables. Animals.
+  Birds. Fish.
+
+  VII. General Account of Kamtschatka, continued. Of the Inhabitants.
+  Origin of the Kamtschadales. Discovered by the Russians. Abstract of
+  their History. Numbers. Present State. Of the Russian Commerce in
+  Kamtschatka. Of the Kamtschadale Habitations, and Dress. Of the Kurile
+  Islands. The Koreki. The Tschutski.
+
+  VIII. Plan of our future Proceedings. Course to the Southward, along the
+  Coast of Kamtschatka. Cape Lopatka. Pass the Islands Shoomska and
+  Paramousir. Driven to the Eastward of the Kuriles. Singular Situation
+  with respect to the pretended Discoveries of former Navigators.
+  Fruitless Attempts to reach the Islands North of Japan. Geographical
+  Conclusions. View of the Coast of Japan. Run along the East Side. Pass
+  two Japanese Vessels. Driven off the Coast by contrary Winds.
+  Extraordinary Effect of Currents. Steer for the Bashees. Pass large
+  Quantities of Pumice Stone. Discover Sulphur Island. Pass the Pratas.
+  Isles of Lema, and Ladrone Island. Chinese Pilot taken on board the
+  Resolution. Journals of the Officers and Men secured.
+
+  IX. Working up to Macao. A Chinese Comprador. Sent on Shore to visit the
+  Portuguese Governor. Effects of the Intelligence we received from
+  Europe. Anchor in the Typa. Passage up to Canton. Bocca Tygris. Wampu.
+  Description of a Sampane. Reception at the English Factory. Instance of
+  the suspicious Character of the Chinese. Of their Mode of trading. Of
+  the City of Canton. Its Size. Population. Number of Sampanes. Military
+  Force. Of the Streets and Houses. Visit to a Chinese. Return to Macao.
+  Great Demand for the Sea-Otter Skins. Plan of a Voyage for opening a
+  Fur-Trade on the Western Coast of America, and prosecuting further
+  Discoveries in the Neighbourhood of Japan. Departure from Macao. Price
+  of Provisions in China.
+
+  X. Leave the Typa. Orders of the Court of France respecting Captain
+  Cook. Resolutions in consequence thereof. Strike Soundings on the
+  Macclesfield Banks. Pass Pulo Sapata. Steer for Pulo Condore. Anchor at
+  Pulo Condore. Transactions during our Stay. Journey to the principal
+  Town. Receive a Visit from a Mandarin. Examine his Letters. Refreshments
+  to be procured. Description, and present State of the Island. Its
+  Produce. An Assertion of M. Sonnerat refuted. Astronomical and Nautical
+  Observations.
+
+  XI. Departure from Pulo Condore. Pass the Straits of Banca. View of the
+  Island of Sumatra. Straits of Sunda. Occurrences there. Description of
+  the Island of Cracatoa. Prince's Island. Effects of the Climate of Java.
+  Run to the Cape of Good Hope. Transactions there. Description of False
+  Bay. Passage to the Orkneys. General Reflections.
+
+Vocabulary of the Language of Nootka, or King George's Sound. April, 1778.
+
+Table to shew the Affinity between the Languages Spoken at Oonalashka and
+Norton Sound, and those of the Greenlanders and Esquimaux.
+
+APPENDIX, No. I. BYRON'S NARRATIVE.
+
+  The Author's Preface.
+
+  Chapter
+  I. Account of the Wager and her Equipment. Captain Kid's Death.
+  Succeeded by Captain Cheap. Our Disasters commence with our Voyage. We
+  lose Sight of our Squadron in a Gale of Wind. Dreadful Storm. Ship
+  strikes.
+
+  II. We land on a wild Shore. No Appearance of Inhabitants. One of our
+  Lieutenants dies. Conduct of a Part of the Crew who remained on the
+  Wreck. We name the Place of our Residence Mount Misery. Narrative of
+  Transactions there. Indians appear in Canoes off the Coast. Description
+  of them. Discontents amongst our People.
+
+  III. Unfortunate Death of Mr Cozens. Improper Conduct of Captain Cheap.
+  The Indians join us in a friendly Manner, but depart presently on
+  account of the Misconduct of our Men. Our Number dreadfully reduced by
+  Famine. Description of the various Contrivances used for procuring Food.
+  Further Transactions. Departure from the Island.
+
+  IV. Occurrences on our Voyage. We encounter bad Weather and various
+  Dangers and Distresses. Leave a Part of our Crew behind on a desert
+  Shore. A strange Cemetry discovered. Narrow Escape from Wreck. Return to
+  Mount Misery. We are visited by a Chanos Indian Cacique, who talks
+  Spanish, with whom we again take our Departure from the Island.
+
+  V. Navigation of the River. One of our Men dies from Fatigue. Inhumanity
+  of the Captain. Description of our Passage through a horrible and
+  desolate Country. Our Conductor leaves us, and a Party of our Men desert
+  with the Boat. Dreadful Situation of the Remainder. The Cacique returns.
+  Account of our Journey Overland. Kindness of two Indian Women.
+  Description of the Indian Mode of Fishing. Cruel Treatment of my Indian
+  Benefactress by her Husband.
+
+  VI. The Cacique's Conduct changes. Description of the Indian Mode of
+  Bird-fowling. Their Religion. Mr Elliot, our Surgeon, dies. Transactions
+  on our Journey. Miserable Situation to which we are reduced.
+
+  VII. We land on the Island of Chiloe. To our great Joy we at length
+  discover Something having the Appearance of a House. Kindness of the
+  Natives. We are delivered to the Custody of a Spanish Guard.
+  Transactions with the Spanish Residents. Arrival at Chaco. Manners of
+  the Inhabitants.
+
+  VIII. Adventure with the Niece of an old Priest at Castro. Superstition
+  of the People. The Lima Ship arrives, in which we depart for Valparaiso,
+  January 1743. Arrival at and Treatment there. Journey to Chili. Arrival
+  at St. Jago. Generous Conduct of a Scotch Physician. Description of the
+  City and of the People.
+
+  IX. Account of the Bull Feasts and other Amusements. Occurrences during
+  nearly two Years Residence. In December, 1744, we embark for Europe in
+  the Lys French Frigate. The Vessel leaky. Dangerous Voyage. Narrow
+  Escape from English Cruizers. Arrival in England. Conclusion
+
+APPENDIX, No. II. BULKELEY'S NARRATIVE.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+A GENERAL HISTORY AND COLLECTION OF VOYAGES AND TRAVELS.
+
+PART III. BOOK III. (CONTINUED.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V. CONTINUED.
+
+CAPTAIN KING'S JOURNAL OF THE TRANSACTIONS ON RETURNING TO THE SANDWICH
+ISLANDS.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION VI.
+
+
+General Account of the Sandwich Islands.--Their Number, Names, and
+Situation.--OWHYHEE.--Its Extent, and Division into Districts.--Account of
+its Coasts, and the adjacent Country.--Volcanic Appearances.--Snowy
+Mountains.--Their Height determined.--Account of a Journey into the
+Interior Parts of the Country.--MOWEE.--TAHOOROWA.--MOROTOI.--RANAI.--
+WOAHOO.--ATOOI.--ONEEHEOW.--OBEEHOUA.--TAHOORA.--Climate.--Winds.--
+Currents.--Tides.--Animals and Vegetables.--Astronomical
+Observations.[1]
+
+
+As we are now about to take our final leave of the Sandwich Islands, it
+will not be improper to introduce here some general account of their
+situation and natural history, and of the manners and customs of the
+inhabitants.
+
+This subject has indeed been, in some measure, preoccupied by persons far
+more capable of doing it justice than I can pretend to be. Had Captain Cook
+and Mr Anderson lived to avail themselves of the advantages which we
+enjoyed by a return to these islands, it cannot be questioned, that the
+public would have derived much additional information from the skill and
+diligence of two such accurate observers. The reader will therefore lament
+with me our common misfortune, which hath deprived him of the labours of
+such superior abilities, and imposed on me the task of presenting him with
+the best supplementary account the various duties of my station permitted
+me to furnish.
+
+This group consists of eleven islands, extending in latitude from 18 deg. 54'
+to 22 deg. 15' N., and in longitude from 199 deg. 36' to 205 deg. 06' E. They are
+called by the natives, 1. Owhyhee. 2. Mowee. 3. Ranai, or Oranai. 4.
+Morotinnee, or Morokinnee. 5. Kahowrowee, or Tahoorowa. 6. Morotoi, or
+Morokoi. 7. Woahoo, or Oahoo. 8. Atooi, Atowi, or Towi, and sometimes
+Kowi.[2] 9. Neeheehow, or Oneeheow. 10. Oreehona, or Reehoua; and, 11.
+Tahoora; and are all inhabited, excepting Morotinnee and Tahoora. Besides
+the islands above enumerated, we were told by the Indians, that there is
+another called Modoopapapa,[3] or Komodoopapapa, lying to the W.S.W. of
+Tahoora, which is low and sandy, and visited only for the purpose of
+catching turtle and sea-fowl; and, as I could never learn that they knew of
+any others, it is probable that none exist in their neighbourhood.
+
+They were named by Captain Cook the _Sandwich Islands_, in honour of
+the EARL OF SANDWICH, under whose administration he had enriched geography
+with so many splendid and important discoveries; a tribute justly due to
+that noble person for the liberal support these voyages derived from his
+power, in whatever could extend their utility, or promote their success;
+for the zeal with which he seconded the views of that great navigator; and,
+if I may be allowed to add the voice of private gratitude, for the generous
+protection, which, since the death of their unfortunate commander, he has
+afforded all the officers that served under him.
+
+Owhyhee, the easternmost, and by much the largest of these islands, is of a
+triangular shape, and nearly equilateral. The angular points make the
+north, east, and south extremities, of which the northern is in latitude
+20 deg. 17' N., longitude 204 deg. 02' E.; the eastern in latitude 19 deg. 34' N.,
+longitude 205 deg. 06' E.; and the southern extremity in latitude 18 deg. 54' N.,
+longitude 204 deg. 15' E. Its greatest length, which lies in a direction nearly
+north and south, is 23-1/2 leagues; its breadth is 24 leagues; and it is
+about 255 geographical, or 293 English miles in circumference. The whole
+island is divided into six large districts; Amakooa and Aheedoo, which lie
+on the north-east side; Apoona and Kaoo on the south-east; Akona and
+Koaarra on the west.
+
+The districts of Amakooa and Aheedoo are separated by a mountain called
+Mounah Kaah (or the mountain Kaah), which rises in three peaks, perpetually
+covered with snow, and may be clearly seen at 40 leagues distance.
+
+To the north of this mountain the coast consists of high and abrupt cliffs,
+down which fall many beautiful cascades of water. We were once flattered
+with the hopes of meeting with a harbour round a bluff head, in latitude
+20 deg. 10' N., and longitude 204 deg. 26' E.; but, on doubling the point, and
+standing close in, we found it connected by a low valley, with another high
+head to the north-west. The country rises inland with a gentle ascent, is
+intersected by deep narrow glens, or rather chasms, and appeared to be well
+cultivated and sprinkled over with a number of villages. The snowy mountain
+is very steep, and the lower part of it covered with wood.
+
+The coast of Aheedoo, which lies to the south of Mouna Kaah, is of a
+moderate height, and the interior parts appear more even than the country
+to the north-west, and less broken by ravines. Off these two districts we
+cruised for almost a month; and, whenever our distance from shore would
+permit it, were sure of being surrounded by canoes laden with all kinds of
+refreshments. We had frequently a very heavy sea, and great swell on this
+side of the island; and as we had no soundings, and could observe much foul
+ground off the shore, we never approached nearer the land than two or three
+leagues, excepting on the occasion already mentioned.
+
+The coast to the north-east of Apoona, which forms the eastern extremity of
+the island, is low and flat; the acclivity of the inland parts is very
+gradual, and the whole country covered with cocoa-nut and bread-fruit
+trees. This, as far as we could judge, is the finest part of the island,
+and we were afterward told that the king had a place of residence here. At
+the south-west extremity the hills rise abruptly from the sea side, leaving
+but a narrow border of low ground toward the beach. We were pretty near the
+shore at this part of the island, and found the sides of the hills covered
+with a fine verdure; but the country seemed to be very thinly inhabited. On
+doubling the east point of the island, we came in sight of another snowy
+mountain, called Mouna Roa (or the extensive mountain), which continued to
+be a very conspicuous object all the while we were sailing along the south-
+east side. It is flat at the top, making what is called by mariners table-
+land; the summit was constantly buried in snow, and we once saw its sides
+also slightly covered for a considerable way down; but the greatest part of
+this disappeared again in a few days.
+
+According to the tropical line of snow, as determined by Mr. Condamine,
+from observations taken on the Cordilleras, this mountain must be at least
+16,020 feet high, which exceeds the height of the Pico de Teyde, or Peak of
+Teneriffe, by 724 feet, according to Dr. Heberden's computation, or 3,680,
+according to that of the Chevalier de Borda. The peaks of Mouna Kaah
+appeared to be about half a mile high; and as they are entirely covered
+with snow, the altitude of their summits cannot be less than 18,400 feet.
+But it is probable that both these mountains may be considerably higher.
+For in insular situations, the effects of the warm sea air must necessarily
+remove the line of snow in equal latitudes, to a greater height than where
+the atmosphere is chilled on all sides by an immense tract of perpetual
+snow.
+
+The coast of Kaoo presents a prospect of the most horrid and dreary kind;
+the whole country appearing to have undergone a total change from the
+effects of some dreadful convulsion. The ground is every where covered with
+cinders, and intersected in many places with black streaks, which seem to
+mark the course of a lava that has flowed, not many ages back, from the
+mountain Roa to the shore. The southern promontory looks like the mere
+dregs of a volcano. The projecting head-land is composed of broken and
+craggy rocks, piled irregularly on one another, and terminating in sharp
+points.
+
+Notwithstanding the dismal aspect of this part of the island, there are
+many villages scattered over it, and it certainly is much more populous
+than the verdant mountains of Apoona. Nor is this circumstance hard to be
+accounted for. As these islanders have no cattle, they have consequently no
+use for pasturage, and therefore naturally prefer such ground as either
+lies more convenient for fishing, or is best suited to the cultivation of
+yams and plantains. Now amidst these ruins, there are many patches of rich
+soil, which are carefully laid out in plantations, and the neighbouring sea
+abounds with a variety of most excellent fish, with which, as well as with
+other provisions, we were always plentifully supplied. Off this part of the
+coast we could find no ground, at less than a cable's length from the
+shore, with a hundred and sixty fathoms of line, excepting in a small bight
+to the eastward of the south point, where we had regular soundings of fifty
+and fifty-eight fathoms over a bottom of fine sand. Before we proceed to
+the western districts, it may be necessary to remark, that the whole east
+side of the island, from the northern to the southern extremity, does not
+afford the smallest harbour or shelter for shipping.
+
+The south-west parts of Akona are in the same state with the adjoining
+district of Kaoo; but farther to the north, the country has been cultivated
+with great pains, and is extremely populous.
+
+In this part of the island is situated Karakakooa Bay, which has been
+already described. Along the coast nothing is seen but large masses of
+slag, and the fragments of black scorched rocks; behind which, the ground
+rises gradually for about two miles and a half, and appears to have been
+formerly covered with loose burnt stones. These the natives have taken the
+pains of clearing away, frequently to the depth of three feet and upward;
+which labour, great as it is, the fertility of the soil amply repays. Here
+in a rich ashy mould, they cultivate sweet potatoes and the cloth-plant.
+The fields are enclosed with stone-fences, and are interspersed with groves
+of cocoa-nut trees. On the rising ground beyond these, the bread-fruit
+trees are planted, and flourish with the greatest luxuriance.
+
+Koaara extends from the westernmost point to the northern extremity of the
+island; the whole coast between them forming an extensive bay, called Toe-
+yah-yah, which is bounded to the north by two very conspicuous hills.
+Toward the bottom of this bay there is foul corally ground, extending
+upward of a mile from the shore, without which the soundings are regular,
+with good anchorage, in twenty fathoms. The country, as far as the eye
+could reach, seemed fruitful and well inhabited, the soil being in
+appearance of the same kind with the district of Kaoo; but no fresh water
+is to be got here.
+
+I have hitherto confined myself to the coasts of this island, and the
+adjacent country, which is all that I had an opportunity of being
+acquainted with from my own observation. The only account I can give of the
+interior parts, is from the information I obtained from a party, who set
+out on the afternoon of the 26th of January, on an expedition up the
+country, with an intention of penetrating as far as they could; and
+principally of reaching, if possible, the snowy mountains.
+
+Having procured two natives to serve them as guides, they left the village
+about four o'clock in the afternoon, directing their course a little to the
+southward of the east. To the distance of three or four miles from the bay,
+they found the country as before described; the hills afterward rose with a
+more sudden ascent, which brought them to the extensive plantations that
+terminate the view of the country, as seen from the ships.
+
+These plantations consist of the tarrow[4], or eddy root, and the sweet
+potatoe, with plants of the cloth tree, neatly set out in rows. The walls
+that separate them are made of the loose burnt stones, which are got in
+clearing the ground; and being entirely concealed by sugar-canes, planted
+close on each side, make the most beautiful fences that can be conceived.
+The party stopped for the night at the second hut they found amongst the
+plantations, where they judged themselves to be about six or seven miles
+from the ships. They described the prospect from this spot as very
+delightful; they saw the ships in the bay before them; to the left a
+continued range of villages, interspersed with groves of cocoa-nut trees,
+spreading along the sea-shore; a thick wood stretching out of sight behind
+them; and to the right an extent of ground, laid out in regular and well-
+cultivated plantations, as far as the eye could reach.
+
+Near this spot, at a distance from any other dwelling, the natives pointed
+out to them the residence of a hermit, who, they said, had formerly been a
+great chief and warrior, but had long ago quitted the shores of the island,
+and now never stirred from his cottage. They prostrated themselves as they
+approached him, and afterward presented to him a part of such provisions as
+they had brought with them. His behaviour was easy and cheerful; he scarce
+shewed any marks of astonishment at the sight of our people, and though
+pressed to accept some of our curiosities, he declined the offer, and soon
+withdrew to his cottage. He was described as by far the oldest person any
+of the party had ever seen, and judged to be, by those who computed his age
+at the lowest, upward of 100 years old.
+
+As our people had imagined the mountain not to be more than ten or twelve
+miles from the bay, and consequently that they should reach it with ease
+early the next morning, an error into which its great height had probably
+led them, they were now much surprised to find the distance scarce
+perceptibly diminished. This circumstance, together with the uninhabited
+state of the country they were going to enter, made it necessary to procure
+a supply of provisions; and for that purpose they dispatched one of their
+guides back to the village. Whilst they were waiting his return, they were
+joined by some of Kaoo's servants, whom that benevolent old man had sent
+after them, as soon as he heard of their journey, laden with refreshments,
+and authorised, as their route lay through his grounds, to demand and take
+away whatever they might have occasion for.
+
+Our travellers were much astonished to find the cold here so intense; but
+having no thermometer with them, could judge of it only by their feelings,
+which, from the warm atmosphere they had left, must have been a very
+fallacious measure. They found it, however, so cold, that they could get
+but little sleep, and the natives none at all; both parties being
+disturbed, the whole night, by continued coughing. As they could not, at
+this time, be at any very considerable height, the distance from the sea
+being only six or seven miles, and part of the road on a very moderate
+ascent, this extraordinary degree of cold must be ascribed to the easterly
+wind blowing fresh over the snowy mountains.
+
+Early on the 27th they set out again, and filled their calibashes at an
+excellent well about half a mile from their hut. Having passed the
+plantations, they came to a thick wood, which they entered by a path made
+for the convenience of the natives, who go thither to fetch the wild or
+horse-plantain, and to catch birds. Their progress now became very slow,
+and attended with much labour; the ground being either swampy, or covered
+with large stones; the path narrow, and frequently interrupted by trees
+lying across it, which it was necessary to climb over, the thickness of the
+underwood on both sides making it impossible to pass round them. In these
+woods they observed, at small distances, pieces of white cloth fixed on
+poles, which they supposed to be land-marks for the division of property,
+as they only met with them where the wild plantains grew. The trees, which
+are of the same kind with those we called the spice-tree at New Holland,
+were lofty and straight, and from two to four feet in circumference.
+
+After they had advanced about ten miles in the wood, they had the
+mortification to find themselves, on a sudden, within sight of the sea, and
+at no great distance from it; the path having turned imperceptibly to the
+southward, and carried them to the right of the mountain, which it was
+their object to reach. Their disappointment was greatly increased by the
+uncertainty they were now under of its true bearings, since they could not,
+at this time, get a view of it from the top of the highest trees. They,
+therefore, found themselves obliged to walk back six or seven miles to an
+unoccupied hut, where they had left three of the natives and two of their
+own people, with the small stock that remained of their provisions. Here
+they spent the second night; and the air was so very sharp, and so little
+to the liking of their guides, that, by the morning, they had all departed,
+except one.
+
+The want of provisions now making it necessary to return to some of the
+cultivated parts of the island, they quitted the wood by the same path they
+had entered it; and, on their arrival at the plantations, were surrounded
+by the natives, of whom they purchased a fresh stock of necessaries; and
+prevailed upon two of them to supply the place of the guides that were gone
+away. Having obtained the best information in their power, with regard to
+the direction of their road, the party, being now nine in number, marched
+along the skirts of the wood for six or seven miles, and then entered it
+again by a path that bore to the eastward. For the first three miles they
+passed through a forest of lofty spice-trees, growing on a strong rich
+loam; at the back of which they found an equal extent of low shrubby trees,
+with much thick underwood, on a bottom of loose burnt stones. This led them
+to a second forest of spice-trees, and the same rich brown soil, which was
+again succeeded by a barren ridge of the same nature with the former. This
+alternate succession may, perhaps, afford matter of curious speculation to
+naturalists. The only additional circumstance I could learn relating to it
+was, that these ridges appeared, as far as they could be seen, to run in
+directions parallel to the sea-shore, and to have Mouna Roa for their
+centre.
+
+In passing through the woods they found many canoes half-finished, and here
+and there a hut; but saw none of the inhabitants. Having penetrated near
+three miles into the second wood, they came to two huts, where they
+stopped, exceedingly fatigued with the day's journey, having walked not
+less than twenty miles, according to their own computation. As they had met
+with no springs, from the time they left the plantation-ground, and began
+to suffer much from the violence of their thirst, they were obliged, before
+the night came on, to separate into parties, and go in search of water;
+and, at last, found some left by rain in the bottom of an unfinished canoe,
+which, though of the colour of red wine, was to them no unwelcome
+discovery. In the night, the cold was still more intense than they had
+found it before; and though they had wrapped themselves up in mats and
+cloths of the country, and kept a large fire between the two huts, they
+could yet sleep but very little, and were obliged to walk about the
+greatest part of the night. Their elevation was now probably pretty
+considerable, as the ground on which they had travelled had been generally
+on the ascent.
+
+On the 29th, at day-break, they set out, intending to make their last and
+utmost effort to reach the snowy mountain; but their spirits were much
+depressed, when they found they had expended the miserable pittance of
+water they had found the night before. The path, which extended no farther
+than where canoes had been built, was now at an end; and they were
+therefore obliged to make their way as well as they could; every now and
+then climbing up into the highest trees, to explore the country round. At
+eleven o'clock, they came to a ridge of burnt stones, from the top of which
+they saw the snowy mountain, appearing to be about twelve or fourteen miles
+from them.
+
+It was here deliberated, whether they should proceed any further, or rest
+satisfied with the view they now had of Mouna Rao. The road, ever since the
+path ceased, had become exceedingly fatiguing; and every step they advanced
+was growing still more so. The deep chinks, with which the ground was every
+where broken, being slightly covered with moss, made them stumble at almost
+every step; and the intermediate space was a surface of loose burnt stones,
+which broke under their feet like potsherds. They threw stones into several
+of these chinks, which, by the noise they made, seemed to fall to a
+considerable depth, and the ground sounded hollow under their feet. Besides
+these discouraging circumstances, they found their guides so averse to
+going on, that they believed, whatever their own determinations might have
+been, they could not have prevailed on them to remain out another night.
+They therefore at last agreed to return to the ships, after taking a view
+of the country, from the highest trees which the place afforded. From this
+elevation they saw themselves surrounded, on all sides, with wood toward
+the sea; they could not distinguish, in the horizon, the sky from the
+water; and between them and the snowy mountain, was a valley about seven or
+eight miles broad, above which the mountain appeared only as a hill of a
+moderate size.
+
+They rested this night at a hut in the second wood, and, on the 30th,
+before noon, they had got clear of the first, and found themselves about
+nine miles to the north-east of the ships, toward which they directed their
+march through the plantations. As they passed along, they did not observe a
+single spot of ground that was capable of improvement left unplanted; and
+indeed it appeared, from their account, hardly possible for the country to
+be cultivated to greater advantage for the purposes of the inhabitants, or
+made to yield them a larger supply of necessaries for their subsistence.
+They were surprised to meet with several fields of hay; and, on enquiring
+to what uses it was applied, were told, it was designed to cover the young
+tarrow grounds, in, order to preserve them from being scorched by the sun.
+They saw a few scattered huts amongst the plantations, which served for
+occasional shelter to the labourers; but no villages at a greater distance
+than four or five miles from the sea. Near one of them, about four miles
+from the bay, they found a cave, forty fathoms long, three broad, and of
+the same height. It was open at both ends; the sides were fluted, as if
+wrought with a chisel, and the surface glazed over, probably by the action
+of fire.
+
+Having given this account of the most material circumstances that occurred
+on the expedition to the snowy mountain, I shall now return to the other
+islands that remain to be described.
+
+The island next in size and nearest in situation to Owhyhee, is Mowee,
+which lies at the distance of eight leagues N.N.W. from the, former, and is
+one hundred and forty geographical miles in circumference. A low isthmus
+divides it into two circular peninsulas, of which that to the east is
+called Whamadooa, and is double the size of the western peninsula called
+Owhyrookoo. The mountains in both rise to an exceeding great height, having
+been seen by us at the distance of upward of thirty leagues. The northern
+shores, like those of Owhyhee, afford no soundings; and the country
+presents the same appearance of verdure and fertility. To the south-east,
+between this and the adjacent isles, we had regular depths with a hundred
+and fifty fathoms, with a sandy bottom. From the west point, which is low,
+runs a shoal, stretching out toward Ranai, to a considerable distance; and
+to the southward of this is a fine spacious bay, with a sandy beach, shaded
+with cocoa-nut trees. It is probable that good anchorage might be found
+here, with shelter from the prevailing winds, and that the beach affords a
+convenient place for landing. The country behind presents a most romantic
+appearance. The hills rise almost perpendicularly, in a great variety of
+peaked forms; and their steep sides, and the deep chasms between them, are
+covered with trees, amongst which those of the bread-fruit were observed
+particularly to abound. The tops of these hills are entirely bare, and of a
+reddish brown colour. We were informed by the natives that there is a
+harbour to the southward of the east point, which they affirmed to be
+superior to that of Karakakooa; and we were also told, that, on the north-
+west side, there was another harbour, called Keepookeepoo.
+
+Tahoorowa is a small island lying off the S.W. part of Mowee, from which it
+is distant three leagues. This island is destitute of wood, and the soil
+seems to be sandy and barren. Between Tahowrowa and Mowee lies the small
+uninhabited island Morrotinnee.
+
+Morotoi is only two leagues and a half from Mowee to the W.N.W. The south-
+western coast, which was the only part near which we approached, is very
+low, but the land rises backward to a considerable height; and, at the
+distance from which we saw it, appeared to be entirely without wood. Its
+produce, we are told, consists chiefly of yams. It may, probably, have
+fresh water, and on the south and west sides, the coast forms several bays
+that promise good shelter from the trade-winds.
+
+Ranai is about three leagues distant from Mowee and Morotoi, and lies to
+the S.W. of the passage between these islands. The country to the S. is
+high and craggy; but the other parts of the island had a better aspect, and
+appeared to be well inhabited. We were told that it produces very few
+plantains and bread-fruit trees; but that it abounds in roots, such as
+yams, sweet potatoes, and tarrow.
+
+Woahoo lies to the N.W. of Morotoi, at the distance of about seven leagues.
+As far as we could judge from the appearance of the N.E. and N.W. parts,
+(for we saw nothing of the southern side,) it is by far the finest island
+of the whole group. Nothing can exceed the verdure of the hills, the
+variety of wood and lawn, and rich cultivated vallies, which the whole face
+of the country displayed. Having already given a description of the bay,
+formed by the N. and W. extremities, in which we came to an anchor, I have
+only to observe, that in the bight of the bay, to the S. of the anchoring-
+place, we found rocky foul ground, two miles from the shore. Should the
+ground tackling of a ship be weak, and the wind blow strong from the N., to
+which quarter the road is entirely open, this circumstance might be
+attended with some danger; but with good cables there would be little risk,
+as the ground from the anchoring-place, which is opposite to the valley
+through which the river runs to the N. point, is a fine sand.
+
+Atooi lies to the N.W. of Woahoo, and is distant from it about twenty-five
+leagues. The face of the country to the N.E. and N.W., is broken and
+ragged, but to the S. it is more even; the hills rise with a gentle slope
+from the seaside, and, at some distance back, are covered with wood. Its
+productions are the same with those of the other islands; but the
+inhabitants far surpass all the neighbouring islanders in the management of
+their plantations. In the low grounds, adjoining to the bay where we lay at
+anchor, these plantations were divided by deep and regular ditches; the
+fences were made with a neatness approaching to elegance, and the roads
+through them were thrown up and finished in a manner that would have done
+credit to any European engineer.
+
+Oneeheow lies five leagues to the westward of Atooi. The eastern coast is
+high, and rises abruptly from the sea, but the rest of the island consists
+of low ground, excepting a round bluff head on the S.E. point. It produces
+abundance of yams, and of the sweet root called _Tee_, but we got from
+it no other sort of provisions.
+
+Oreehow aad Tahoora are two small islands in the neighbourhood of Oneeheow.
+The former is a single high hummock, joined by a reef of coral rocks to the
+northern extremity of Oneeheow. The latter lies to the S.W., and is
+uninhabited.
+
+The climate of the Sandwich islands differs very little from that of the
+West India islands, which lie in the same latitude. Upon the whole,
+perhaps, it may be rather more temperate. The thermometer on shore in
+Karakakooa Bay, never rose higher than 88 deg., and that but one day; its mean
+height at noon was 83 deg.. In Wymoa Bay, its mean height at noon was 76 deg., and
+when out at sea 75 deg.. The mean height of the thermometer at noon, in
+Jamaica, is about 86 deg., at sea 80 deg..
+
+Whether they be subject to the same violent winds and hurricanes, we could
+not discover, as we were not there in, any of the stormy months. However,
+as the natives gave us no positive testimony of the fact, and no traces of
+their effects were any where visible, it is probable that, in this respect,
+they resemble the Society and Friendly islands, which are, in a great
+measure, free from these dreadful visitations.
+
+During the four winter months that we remained amongst these islands, there
+was more rain, especially in the interior parts, than usually falls during
+the dry season in the islands of the West Indies. We generally saw clouds
+collecting round the tops of the hills, and producing rain to leeward; but
+after they are separated from the land by the wind, they disperse and are
+lost, and others succeed in their place. This happened daily at Owhyhee;
+the mountainous parts being generally enveloped in a cloud; successive
+showers falling in the inland country, with fine weather, and a clear sky
+at the sea-shore.
+
+The winds in general were from E.S.E. to N.E.; though they sometimes varied
+a few points each way to the N. and S, but these were light, and of short
+duration. In the harbour of Karakakooa we had a constant land and sea-
+breeze every day and night.
+
+The currents seemed very uncertain, sometimes setting to windward, and at
+other times to leeward, without any regularity. They did not appear to be
+governed by the winds, nor any other cause that I can assign; they
+frequently set to windward against a fresh breeze.
+
+The tides are very regular, flowing and ebbing six hours each. The flood
+comes from the eastward; and it is high water, at the full and change of
+the moon, forty-five minutes past three, apparent time. Their greatest rise
+is two feet seven inches; and we always observed the water to be four
+inches higher when the moon was above the horizon, than when it was below.
+
+The quadrupeds in these, as in all the other islands that have been
+discovered in the South Sea, are confined to three sorts, dogs, hogs, and
+rats. The dogs are of the same species with those of Otaheite, having short
+crooked legs, long backs, and pricked ears. I did not observe any variety
+in them, except in their skins, some having long and rough hair, and others
+being quite smooth. They are about the size of a common turnspit,
+exceedingly sluggish in their nature, though perhaps this may be more owing
+to the manner in which they are treated, than to any natural disposition in
+them. They are in general fed and left to herd with the hogs; and I do not
+recollect one instance in which a dog was made a companion in the manner we
+do in Europe. Indeed the custom of eating them is an inseparable bar to
+their admission into society; and, as there are neither beasts of prey in
+the island, nor objects of chase, it is probable that the social qualities
+of the dog, its fidelity, attachment, and sagacity, will remain unknown to
+the natives.
+
+The number of dogs in these islands did not appear to be nearly equal, in
+proportion, to those in Otaheite. But on the other hand, they abound much
+more in hogs; and the breed is of a larger and weightier kind. The supply
+of provisions of this kind which we got from them was really astonishing.
+We were near four months, either cruising off the coast, or in harbour at
+Owhyhee. During all this time, a large allowance of fresh pork was
+constantly served to both crews, so that our consumption was computed at
+about sixty puncheons of five hundred weight each. Besides this, and the
+incredible waste which, in the midst of such plenty, was not to be guarded
+against, sixty puncheons more were salted for sea-store. The greatest part
+of this supply was drawn from the island of Owhyhee alone, and yet we could
+not perceive that it was at all drained, or even that the abundance had any
+way decreased.
+
+The birds of these islands are as beautiful as any we have seen during the
+voyage, and are numerous, though not various. There are four, which seem to
+belong to the _trochili_, or honey-suckers of Linnaeus; one of which is
+something larger than a bullfinch; its colour is a fine glossy black, the
+rump, vent, and thighs, a deep yellow. It is called by the natives
+_hoohoo_. Another is of an exceedingly bright scarlet colour; the
+wings black, and edged with white, and the tail black; its native name is
+_eeeeve_. A third, which seems to be either a young bird, or a variety
+of the foregoing, is variegated with red, brown, and yellow. The fourth is
+entirely green, with a tinge of yellow, and is called _akaiearooa_.
+There is a species of thrush, with a grey breast, and a small bird of the
+flycatcher kind; a rail, with very short wings and no tail, which, on that
+account, we named _rallus ecaudatus_. Ravens are found here, but they
+are very scarce; their colour is dark-brown, inclining to black, and their
+note is different from the European. Here are two small birds, both of one
+_genus_, that are very common; one is red, and generally seen about
+the cocoa-nut trees, particularly when they are in flower, from whence it
+seems to derive great part of its subsistence, the other is green; the
+tongues of both are long and ciliated, or fringed at the tip. A bird with a
+yellow head, which, from the structure of its beak, we called a parroquet,
+is likewise very common. It however by no means belongs to that tribe, but
+greatly resembles the _lexia flavicans_, or yellowish cross-bill of
+Linnaeus.
+
+Here are also owls, plovers of two sorts, one very like the whistling
+plover of Europe; a large white pigeon; a bird with a long tail, whose
+colour is black, the vent and feathers under the wing (which is much longer
+than is usually seen in the generality of birds, except the birds of
+paradise) are yellow; and the common water or darker hen.
+
+Their vegetable productions are nearly the same with the rest of the South
+Sea islands. I have before mentioned. that the _tarrow_ root is much
+superior to any we had before tasted, and that we attributed this
+excellence to the dry method of cultivating it. The bread-fruit trees
+thrive here, not in such abundance, but produce double the quantity of
+fruit they do on the rich plains of Otaheite. The trees are nearly of the
+same height, but the branches begin to strike out from the trunk much
+lower, and with greater luxuriance. Their sugar-canes are also of a very
+unusual size. One of them was brought to us at Atooi, measuring eleven
+inches and a quarter in circumference, and having fourteen feet eatable.
+
+At Oneeheow they brought us several large roots of a brown colour, shaped
+like a yam, and from six to ten pounds in weight. The juice, which it
+yields in great abundance, is very sweet, and of a pleasant taste, and was
+found to be an excellent substitute for sugar. The natives are very fond of
+it, and use it as an article of their common diet; and our people also
+found it very palatable and wholesome. We could not learn to what species
+of plant it belonged, having never been able to procure the leaves; but it
+was supposed, by our botanists, to be the root of some kind of fern.
+
+Agreeably to the practice of Captain Cook, I shall subjoin an abstract of
+the astronomical observations which were made at the observatory in
+Karakakooa Bay, for determining its latitude and longitude, and for finding
+the rate and error of the time-keeper. To these are subjoined the mean
+variation of the compass, the dip of the magnetic needle, and a table of
+the latitude and longitude of the Sandwich Islands.
+
+
+The latitude of the observatory, deduced
+  from meridian zenith distances of the
+  sun, eleven stars to the south, and four
+  stars to the north of the zenith             19 deg. 28' 0" N.
+The longitude of the observatory, deduced
+  from 253 sets of lunar observations;
+  each set consisting of six observed
+  distances of the moon from the
+  sun or stars; 14 of the above sets were
+  only taken at the observatory, 105 sets
+  being taken whilst cruising off Owhyhee,
+  and 134 sets when at Atooi and
+  Oneeheow, all these being reduced to
+  the observatory, by means of the timekeeper  204 deg. 0' 0" E.
+The longitude of the observatory, by the
+  time-keeper, on the 19th January,
+  1779, according to its rate, as found
+  at Greenwich                                 214 deg. 7' 15' E.
+The longitude of the observatory, by the
+  time-keeper, on the 19th January,
+  1779, according to its rate, corrected
+  at different places, and last at Samganoodha
+  Harbour, in Oonalaschka                       203 deg. 37' 22" E.
+The daily rate of the time-keeper losing
+  on mean time, was 9",6; and, on the
+  2d February, 1779, it was 14^h 41' 1"
+  too slow for mean time.
+The variation of the compass, by azimuths,
+  observed on shore with four
+  different compasses                             8   6   0  E.
+The variation of the compass, by azimuths,
+  observed on board the Resolution,
+  with four different compasses                   7  32   0  E.
+Dip of the north        /Balanced needle\        40  22  30  E.
+  pole of the magnetic |                 |
+  needle on            | Unbalanced, or  |
+  shore, with           \ plain needle  /        40  41  15  E.
+Dip of the north        /Balanced needle\        41  50   0  E.
+  pole of the magnetic |                 |
+  needle on            |  Unbalanced     |       40  30   5  E.
+  board, with           \   needle      /
+
+
+_A Table of the Latitude and Longitude of the Sandwich Islands_.
+
+                                  Latitude.   Longitude.
+         /The north point         20 deg.   17'   204 deg.    2'
+Owhyhee | South point             18    55    204    15
+        | East point              19    35    205     6
+         \Karakakooa Bay          19    28    204     0
+         /East point              20    50    204     4
+Mowee   < South point             20    34    203    48
+         \West point              20    54    203    24
+Morokinnee                        20    39    203    33
+Tahoorowa                         20    38    203    27
+Kanai. South point                20    46    203     8
+Morotoi. West point               21    10    202    46
+Woahoo. Anchoring-place.          21    43    202     9
+Atooi. Wymoa Bay                  21    57    200    20
+Oneeheow. Anchoring-place.        21    50    199    45
+Oreehoua                          22     2    199    52
+Tahoora                           21    43    199    56
+
+
+[1] The general account of the Sandwich Islands given by Captain King, has
+    been substantially confirmed by subsequent voyagers. Some additional
+    particulars, not by any means very important, have resulted from their
+    enquiries, from which, of course, it had been easy to have enlarged
+    the present and two following sections, by supplementary notes. But no
+    good end would be answered by such a practice in the present case, as
+    the description in the text is abundantly complete for every important
+    purpose, and as it is probable, that, in the course of this work,
+    there will occur opportunities of communicating whatever is valuable
+    in the narratives of more recent voyagers.--E.
+
+[2] It is to be observed, that, among the windward islands, the _k_ is
+    used instead of the _t_, as _Morokoi_ instead of
+    _Morotoi_, &c.
+
+[3] _Modoo_ signifies island; _papapa_, flat. This island is
+    called _Tammatapappa_ by Captain Cook.
+
+[4] Both the sweet potatoes, and the tarrow, are here planted four feet
+    from each other; the former was earthed up almost to the top of the
+    stalk, with about half a bushel of light mould; the latter is left
+    bare to the root, and the mould round it is made in the form of a
+    basin, in order to hold the rain-water, as this root requires a
+    certain degree of moisture. It has been before observed, that the
+    tarrow, at the Friendly and Society Islands, was always planted in low
+    and moist situations, and generally where there was the convenience of
+    a rivulet to flood it. It was imagined that this mode of culture was
+    absolutely necessary; but we now found, that, with the precaution
+    above-mentioned, it succeeds equally well in a drier situation;
+    indeed, we all remarked, that the tarrow of the Sandwich Islands is
+    the best we had ever tasted. The plantains are not admitted in these
+    plantations: but grow amongst the bread-fruit trees.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION VII.
+
+
+General Account of the Sandwich Islands continued.--Of the Inhabitants.--
+Their Origin.--Persons.--Pernicious Effects of the Ava.--Numbers.--
+Disposition and Manners.--Reasons for supposing them not Cannibals.--Dress
+and Ornaments.--Villages and Houses.--Food.--Occupations and Amusements.--
+Addicted to Gaming.--Their extraordinary Dexterity in Swimming.--Arts and
+Manufactures.--Curious Specimens of their Sculpture.--Kipparee, or Method
+of Painting Cloth.--Mats.--Fishing Hooks.--Cordage.--Salt Pans.--Warlike
+Instruments.
+
+
+The inhabitants of the Sandwich Islands are undoubtedly of the same race
+with those of New Zealand, the Society and Friendly Islands, Easter Island,
+and the Marquesas; a race that possesses, without any intermixture, all the
+known lands between the latitudes of 47 deg. S. and 20 deg. N., and between the
+longitudes of 184 deg. and 260 deg. E. This fact, which, extraordinary as it is,
+might be thought sufficiently proved by the striking similarity of their
+manners and customs, and the general resemblance of their persons, is
+established, beyond all controversy, by the absolute identity of their
+language.
+
+From what continent they originally emigrated, and by what steps they have
+spread through so vast a space, those who are curious in disquisitions of
+this nature, may perhaps not find it very difficult to conjecture. It has
+been already observed, that they bear strong marks of affinity to some of
+the Indian tribes that inhabit the Ladrones and Caroline islands; and the
+same affinity may again be traced amongst the Battas and Malays. When these
+events happened, is not so easy to ascertain; it was probably not very
+lately, as they are extremely populous, and have no tradition of their own
+origin, but what is perfectly fabulous; whilst, on the other hand, the
+unadulterated state of their general language, and the similarity which
+still prevails in their customs and manners, seem to indicate that it could
+not have been at any very distant period.[5]
+
+The natives of these islands are in general above the middle size, and well
+made; they walk very gracefully, run nimbly, and are capable of bearing
+great fatigue; though, upon the whole, the men are somewhat inferior, in
+point of strength and activity, to the Friendly islanders, and the women
+less delicately limbed than those of Otaheite. Their complexion is rather
+darker than that of the Otaheitans, and they are not altogether so handsome
+a people. However, many of both sexes had fine open countenances, and the
+women, in particular, had good eyes and teeth, and a sweetness and
+sensibility of look, which rendered them very engaging. Their hair is of a
+brownish black, and neither uniformly straight, like that of the Indians of
+America, nor uniformly curling, as amongst the African negroes, but varying
+in this respect like the hair of Europeans. One striking peculiarity in the
+features of every part of this great nation, I do not remember to have seen
+any where mentioned; which is, that even in the handsomest faces, there is
+always a fulness of the nostrils, without any flatness or spreading of the
+nose, that distinguishes them from Europeans. It is not improbable that
+this may be the effect of their usual mode of salutation, which is
+performed by pressing the ends of their noses together.
+
+The same superiority that is observable in the persons of the _Erees_,
+through all the other islands, is found also here. Those whom we saw were,
+without exception, perfectly well formed; whereas the lower sort, besides
+their general inferiority, are subject to all the variety of make and
+figure that is seen in the populace of other countries. Instances of
+deformity are more frequent here than in any of the other islands. Whilst
+we were cruising off Owhyhee, two dwarfs came on board, one an old man,
+four feet two inches high, but exactly proportioned, and the other a woman,
+nearly of the same height. We afterward saw three natives who were hump-
+backed, and a young man born without hands or feet. Squinting is also very
+common amongst them; and a man who, they said, had been born blind, was
+brought to us to be cured. Besides these particular imperfections, they
+are, in general, very subject to boils and ulcers, which we attributed to
+the great quantity of salt they eat with their flesh and fish. The _Erees_
+are very free from these complaints, but many of them suffer still more
+dreadful effects from the immoderate use of the _ava_. Those who were the
+most affected by it, had their bodies covered with a white scurf, their
+eyes red and inflamed, their limbs emaciated, the whole frame trembling and
+paralytic, accompanied with a disability to raise the head. Though this
+drug does not appear universally to shorten life, as was evident from the
+cases of Terreeoboo, Kaoo, and some other chiefs, who were very old men,
+yet it invariably brings on an early and decrepid old age. It is fortunate
+that the use of it is made one of the peculiar privileges of the chiefs.
+The young son of Terreeoboo, who was about twelve years old, used to boast
+of his being admitted to drink _ava_, and shewed us, with great triumph, a
+small spot in his side that was growing scaly.
+
+There is something very singular in the history of this pernicious drug.
+When Captain Cook first visited the Society Islands, it was very little
+known among them. On his second voyage, he found the use of it very
+prevalent at Ulietea, but it had still gained very little ground at
+Otaheite. When we were last there, the dreadful havoc it had made was
+beyond belief, insomuch, that the captain scarce knew many of his old
+acquaintances. At the Friendly Islands, it is also constantly drunk by the
+chiefs, but so much diluted with water, that it does not appear to produce
+any bad effects. At Atooi, also, it is used with great moderation, and the
+chiefs are, in consequence, a much finer set of men there than in any of
+the neighbouring islands. We remarked, that, by discontinuing the use of
+this root, the noxious effects of it soon wore off. Our good friends,
+Kaireekeea and old Kaoo, were persuaded by us to refrain from it, and they
+recovered amazingly during the short time we afterward remained in the
+island.
+
+It may be thought extremely difficult to form any probable conjectures
+respecting the population of islands, with many parts of which we are but
+imperfectly acquainted. There are, however, two circumstances that take
+away much of this objection; the first is, that the interior parts of the
+country are entirely uninhabited; so that, if the number of the inhabitants
+along the coast be known, the whole will be pretty accurately determined.
+The other is, that there are no towns of any considerable size; the
+habitations of the natives being pretty equally dispersed in small villages
+round all their coasts. It is on this ground that I shall venture at a
+rough calculation of the number of persons in this group of islands.
+
+The bay of Karakakooa, in Owhyhee, is three miles in extent, and contains
+four villages of about eighty houses each, upon an average, in all three
+hundred and twenty; besides a number of straggling houses, which may make
+the whole amount to three hundred and fifty. From the frequent
+opportunities I had of informing myself on this head, I am convinced that
+six persons to a house is a very moderate allowance; so that, on this
+calculation, the country about the bay contains two thousand one hundred
+souls. To these may be added fifty families, or three hundred persons,
+which I conceive to be nearly the number employed in the interior parts of
+the country amongst their plantations, making in all two thousand four
+hundred. If, therefore, this number be applied to the whole extent of the
+coast round the island, deducting a quarter for the uninhabited parts, it
+will be found to contain one hundred and fifty thousand. By the same mode
+of calculation, the rest of the islands will be found to contain the
+following numbers:--
+
+
+Owhyhee                     150,000
+Mowee                        65,400
+Woahoo                       60,200
+Atooi                        54,000
+Moroloi                      36,000
+Oneeheow                     10,000
+Ranai                        20,400
+Preehoua                      4,000
+
+      Total of inhabitants  400,000
+
+
+I am pretty confident, that in this calculation I have not exceeded the
+truth in the total amount. If we compare the numbers supposed to be in
+Owhyhee, with the population of Otaheite, as settled by Dr. Forster, this
+computation will be found very low. The proportion of coast in the latter
+island is to that of Owhyhee, only as one to three; the number of
+inhabitants at Otaheite he states to be one hundred and twenty-one thousand
+five hundred; though, according to his own principles, it should be double
+that amount. Again, if we compare it with the medium population of the
+countries in Europe, the proportion will be in favour of the latter nearly
+as two to one.[6]
+
+Notwithstanding the irreparable loss we suffered from the sudden resentment
+and violence of these people, yet, in justice to their general conduct, it
+must be acknowledged, that they are of the most mild and affectionate
+disposition; equally remote from the extreme levity and fickleness of the
+Otaheitans, and the distant gravity and reserve of the inhabitants of the
+Friendly Islands. They appear to live in the utmost harmony and friendship
+with one another. The women, who had children, were remarkable for their
+tender and constant attention to them; and the men would often lend their
+assistance in those domestic offices, with a willingness that does credit
+to their feelings.
+
+It must however be observed, that they fall very short of the other
+islanders, in that best test of civilization, the respect paid to the
+women. Here they are not only deprived of the privilege of eating with the
+men, but the best sorts of food are _tabooed_, or forbidden them. They are
+not allowed to eat pork, turtle, several kinds of fish, and some species of
+the plantains; and we were told that a poor girl got a terrible beating for
+having eaten, on board our ship, one of these interdicted articles. In
+their domestic life, they appear to live almost entirely by themselves, and
+though we did not observe any instances of personal ill treatment, yet it
+was evident they had little regard or attention paid them.
+
+The great hospitality and kindness with which we were received by them,
+have been already frequently remarked; and indeed they make the principal
+part of our transactions with them. Whenever we came on shore, there was a
+constant struggle who should be most forward in making us little presents,
+bringing refreshments, or shewing some other mark of their respect. The old
+people never failed of receiving us with tears of joy; seemed highly
+gratified with being allowed to touch us, and were constantly making
+comparisons between themselves and us, with the strongest marks of
+humility. The young women were not less kind and engaging, and till they
+found, notwithstanding our utmost endeavours to prevent it, that they had
+reason to repent of our acquaintance, attached themselves to us without the
+least reserve.
+
+In justice however to the sex, it must be observed, that these ladies were
+probably all of the lower class of the people; for I am strongly inclined
+to believe, that excepting the few whose names are mentioned in the course
+of our narrative, we did not see any woman of rank during our stay amongst
+them.
+
+Their natural capacity seems, in no respect, below the common standard of
+mankind. Their improvements in agriculture, and the perfection of their
+manufactures, are certainly adequate to the circumstances of their
+situation, and the natural advantages they enjoy. The eager curiosity with
+which they attended the armourer's forge, and the many expedients they had
+invented, even before we left the islands, for working the iron they had
+procured from us, into such forms as were best adapted to their purposes,
+were strong proofs of docility and ingenuity.
+
+Our unfortunate friend, Kaneena, possessed a degree of judicious curiosity,
+and a quickness of conception, which was rarely met with amongst these
+people. He was very inquisitive after our customs and manners, asked after
+our king, the nature of our government, our numbers, the method of building
+our ships, our houses, the produce of our country, whether we had wars,
+with whom, and on what occasions, and in what manner they were carried on,
+who was our God, and many other questions of the same nature, which
+indicated an understanding of great comprehension.
+
+We met with two instances of persons disordered in their minds; the one a
+man at Owhyhee, the other a woman at Oneeheow. It appeared, from the
+particular attention and respect paid to them, that the opinion of
+their being inspired by the Divinity, which obtains among most of the
+nations of the east, is also received here.
+
+Though the custom of eating the bodies of their enemies be not known, by
+positive evidence, to exist in any of the South Sea islands, except New
+Zealand, yet it is extremely probable, that it was originally prevalent in
+them all. The sacrificing human victims, which seems evidently to be a
+relic of this horrid practice, still obtains universally amongst these
+islanders; and it is easy to conceive, why the New Zealanders should retain
+the repast, which was probably the last act of these shocking rites, longer
+than the rest of their, tribe, who were situated in more mild and fruitful
+climates. As the inhabitants of the Sandwich islands certainly bear a
+nearer resemblance to those of New Zealand, both in their persons and
+disposition, than to any other people of this family, so it was strongly
+suspected by Mr. Anderson, that, like them, they still continue to feast on
+human flesh. The evidence on which he founds this opinion, has been stated
+very fully in the tenth section of the third chapter; but, as I always
+entertained great doubts of the justice of his conclusions, it may not be
+improper to take this occasion of mentioning the grounds on which I venture
+to differ from him. With respect to the information derived from the
+natives themselves, I shall only observe, that great pains were taken, by
+almost every officer on board, to come at the knowledge of so curious a
+circumstance; and that except in the two instances mentioned by Mr.
+Anderson, we found them invariably denying the existence of any such custom
+amongst them. It must be allowed, that Mr. Anderson's knowledge of their
+language, which was superior to that of any other person in either ship,
+ought certainly to give his opinion great weight; at the same time, I must
+beg leave to remark, that being present when he examined the man who had
+the small piece of salted flesh wrapped in cloth, it struck me very
+forcibly, that the signs he made use of meant nothing more, than that it
+was intended to be eat, and that it was very pleasant or wholesome to the
+stomach. In this opinion I was confirmed, by a circumstance which came to
+our knowledge, after the death of my worthy and ingenious friend, viz. that
+almost every native of these islands carried about with him, either in his
+calibash, or wrapped up in a piece of cloth, and tied about his waist, a
+small piece of raw pork, pork, highly salted, which they considered as a
+great delicacy, and used now and then to taste of. With respect to the
+confusion the young lad was in, (for he was not more than sixteen or
+eighteen years of age,) no one could have been surprised at it, who had
+seen the eager and earnest manner in which Mr. Anderson questioned him.
+
+The argument drawn from the instrument made with sharks' teeth, and which
+is nearly of the same form with those used at New Zealand for cutting up
+the bodies of their enemies, is much more difficult to controvert. I
+believe it to be an undoubted fact, that this knife, if it may be so
+called, is never used by them in cutting the flesh of other animals.
+However, as the custom of offering human sacrifices, and of burning the
+bodies of the slain, is still prevalent here, it is not improbable that the
+use of this instrument is retained in those ceremonies. Upon the whole, I
+am strongly inclined to think, and particularly from this last
+circumstance, that the horrid practice in question, has but lately ceased
+amongst these and other islands of the South Sea. Omai, when pressed on
+this subject, confessed that in the rage and fury of revenge, they would
+sometimes tear the flesh of their enemies that were slain with their teeth;
+but positively denied that they ever eat it. This was certainly approaching
+as near the fact as could be; but, on the other hand, the denial is a
+strong proof that the practice has actually ceased; since in New Zealand,
+where it still exists, the inhabitants neyer made the smallest scruple of
+confessing it.[7]
+
+The inhabitants of these islands differ from those of the Friendly Isles,
+in suffering, almost universally, their beards to grow. There were indeed a
+few, amongst whom was the old king, that cut it off entirely; and others
+that wore it only upon the upper lip. The same variety, in the manner of
+wearing the hair, is also observable here, as among the other islanders of
+the South Sea; besides which, as far as we know, they have a fashion
+peculiar to themselves. They cut it close on each side the head, down to
+the ears, leaving a ridge of about a small hand's breadth, running from the
+forehead to the neck; which, when the hair is thick and curling, has the
+form of the crest of the ancient helmet. Others wear large quantities of
+false hair, flowing down their backs in long ringlets, like the figure of
+the inhabitants of Horn Island, as seen in Dalrymple's Voyages; and others,
+again, tie it into a single round bunch on the top of the head, almost as
+large as the head itself, and some into five or six distinct bunches. They
+daub their hair with a grey clay, mixed with powdered shells, which they
+keep in balls, and chew into a kind of soft paste, when they have occasion
+to make use of it. This keeps the hair smooth, and in time changes it to a
+pale yellow colour.
+
+Both sexes wear necklaces, made of strings of small variegated shells; and
+an ornament, in the form of the handle of a cup, about two inches long, and
+half an inch broad, made of wood, stone, or ivory, finely polished, which
+is hung about the neck by fine threads of twisted hair, doubled sometimes
+an hundred fold. Instead of this ornament, some of them wear on their
+breast a small human figure made of bone, suspended in the same manner.
+
+The fan, or fly-flap, is also an ornament used by both sexes. The most
+ordinary kind are made of the fibres of the cocoa-nut, tied loose in
+bunches to the top of a smooth polished handle. The tail-feathers of the
+cock, and of the tropic-bird, are also used in the same manner; but the
+most valuable are those which have the handle made of the arm or leg bones
+of an enemy slain in battle, and which are preserved with great care, and
+handed down from father to son, as trophies of inestimable value.
+
+The custom of _tattowing_ the body, they have in common with the rest of
+the natives of the South Sea islands; but it is only at New Zealand and the
+Sandwich Islands, that they _tattow_ the face. There is also this
+difference between the two last, that in the former it is done in elegant
+spiral volutes, and in the latter in straight lines, crossing each, other
+at right angles. The hands and arms of the women are also very neatly
+marked, and they have a singular custom amongst them, the meaning of which
+we could never learn, that of _tallowing_ the tip of the tongues of the
+females.
+
+From some information we received, relative to the custom of _tattowing_,
+we were inclined to think, that it is frequently intended as a sign of
+mourning on the death of a chief, or any other calamitous event. For we
+were often, told, that such a particular mark was in memory of such a
+chief, and so of the rest. It may be here too observed, that the lowest
+class are often _tattowed_ with a mark, that distinguishes them as the
+property of the several chiefs to whom they belong.[8]
+
+The dress of the men generally consists only of a piece of thick cloth
+called the _maro_, about ten or twelve inches broad, which they pass
+between the legs, and tie round the waist. This is the common dress of all
+ranks of people. Their mats, some of which are beautifully manufactured,
+are of various sizes, but mostly about five feet long and four broad. These
+they throw over their shoulders, and bring forward before; but they are
+seldom used, except in time of war, for which purpose they seem better
+adapted than for ordinary use, being of a thick and cumbersome texture, and
+capable of breaking the blow of a stone, or any blunt weapon. Their feet
+are generally bare, except when they have occasion to travel over the burnt
+stones, when they secure them with a sort of sandal, made of cords, twisted
+from the fibres of the cocoa-nut. Such is the ordinary dress of these
+islanders; but they have another, appropriated to their chiefs, and used on
+ceremonious occasions, consisting of a feathered cloak and helmet, which,
+in point of beauty and magnificence, is perhaps nearly equal to that of any
+nation in the world. As this dress has been already described with great
+accuracy and minuteness, I have only to add, that these cloaks are made of
+different lengths, in proportion to the rank of the wearer, some of them
+reaching no lower than the middle, others trailing on the ground. The
+inferior chiefs have also a short cloak, resembling the former, made of the
+long tail-feathers of the cock, the tropic and man-of-war birds, with a
+broad border of the small red and yellow feathers, and a collar of the
+same. Others again are made of feathers entirely white, with variegated
+borders. The helmet has a strong lining of wicker-work, capable of breaking
+the blow of any warlike instrument, and seems evidently designed for that
+purpose.
+
+These feathered dresses seemed to be exceedingly scarce, appropriated to
+persons of the highest rank, and worn by the men only. During the whole
+time we lay in Karakakooa Bay, we never saw them used but on three
+occasions; in the curious ceremony of Terreeoboo's first visit to the
+ships; by some chiefs, who were seen among the crowd on shore when Captain
+Cook was killed, and afterward when Eappo brought his bones to us.
+
+The exact resemblance between this habit, and the cloak and helmet formerly
+worn by the Spaniards, was too striking not to excite our curiosity to
+enquire, whether there were any probable grounds for supposing it to have
+been borrowed from them. After exerting every means in our power of
+obtaining information on this subject, we found that they had no immediate
+knowledge of any other nation whatever, nor any tradition remaining among
+them of these islands having been ever visited before by such ships as
+ours. But, notwithstanding the result of these enquiries, the uncommon form
+of this habit appears to me a sufficient proof of its European origin,
+especially when added to another circumstance, that it is a singular
+deviation from the general resemblance in dress, which prevails amongst all
+the branches of this tribe, dispersed through the South Sea. We were driven
+indeed, by this conclusion, to a supposition of the shipwreck of some
+Buccaneer, or Spanish ship, in the neighbourhood of these islands. But when
+it is recollected, that the course of the Spanish trade from Acapulco to
+the Manillas is but a few degrees to the southward of the Sandwich Islands
+in their passage out, and to the northward on their return, this
+supposition will not appear in the least improbable.[9]
+
+The common dress of the women bears a close resemblance to that of the men.
+They wrap round the waist a piece of cloth, that reaches half way down the
+thighs; and sometimes in the cool of the evening they appeared with loose
+pieces of fine cloth, thrown over their shoulders, like the women of
+Otaheite. The _pau_ is another dress very frequently worn by the younger
+part of the sex. It is made of the thinnest and finest sort of cloth, wrapt
+several times round the waist, and descending to the leg, so as to have
+exactly the appearance of a full short petticoat. The hair is cut short
+behind, and turned up before, as is the fashion among the Otaheiteans and
+New Zealanders; all of whom differ, in this respect, from the women of the
+Friendly Islands, who wear their hair long. We saw, indeed, one woman in
+Karakakooa Bay, Whose hair was arranged in a very singular manner; it was
+turned up behind, and brought over the forehead, and then doubled back, so
+as to form a sort of a shade to the face, like a small bonnet.
+
+Their necklaces are made of shells, or of a hard shining red berry. Besides
+which, they wear wreaths of dried flowers of the Indian mallow; and another
+beautiful ornament called _eraie_, which is generally put about the neck,
+but is sometimes tied like a garland round the hair, and sometimes worn in
+both these ways at once. It is a ruff, of the thickness of a finger, made
+in a curious manner, of exceedingly small feathers, woven so close together
+as to form a surface as smooth as that of the richest velvet. The ground
+was generally of a red colour, with alternate circles of green, yellow, and
+black. Their bracelets, which were also of great variety, and very peculiar
+kinds, have been already described.
+
+At Atooi, some of the women wore little figures of the turtle, neatly
+formed of wood or ivory, tied on their fingers in the manner we wear rings.
+Why this animal is thus particularly distinguished, I leave to the
+conjectures of the curious. There is also an ornament, made of shells,
+fastened in rows on a ground of strong netting, so as to strike each other
+when in motion; which both men and women, when they dance, tie either round
+the arm or the ankle, or below the knee. Instead of shells, they sometimes
+make use of dog's teeth, and a hard red berry, resembling that of the
+holly.
+
+There remains to be mentioned another ornament (if such it may be called),
+which is a kind of mask, made of a large gourd, with holes cut in it for
+the eyes and nose. The top was stuck full of small green twigs, which, at a
+distance, had the appearance of an elegant waving plume; and from the lower
+part hung narrow stripes of cloth, resembling a beard. We never saw these
+masks worn but twice, and both times by a number of people together in a
+canoe, who came to the side of the ship, laughing and drolling, with an air
+of masquerading. Whether they may not likewise be used as a defence for the
+head against stones, for which, they seem best designed; or in some of
+their public games; or be merely intended for the purposes of mummery, we
+could never inform ourselves.
+
+It has already been remarked, in a few instances, that the natives of the
+Sandwich Islands approach nearer to the New Zealanders in their manners and
+customs, than to either of their less distant neighbours of the Society or
+Friendly Islands. This is in nothing more observable than in their method
+of living together in small towns or villages, containing from about one
+hundred to two hundred houses, built pretty close together, without any
+order, and having a winding path leading through them. They are generally
+flanked, toward the sea, with loose detached walls, which, probably, are
+meant both for the purposes of shelter and defence. The figure of their
+houses has been already described. They are of different sizes, from
+eighteen feet by twelve, to forty-five by twenty-four. There are some of a
+larger kind, being fifty feet long and thirty broad, and quite open at one
+end. These, they told us, were designed for travellers or strangers, who
+were only making a short stay.
+
+In addition to the furniture of their houses, which has been accurately
+described by Captain Cook, I have only to add, that at one end are mats on
+which they sleep, with wooden pillows, or sleeping stools, exactly like
+those of the Chinese. Some of the better sort of houses have a courtyard
+before them, neatly railed in, with smaller houses built round it, for
+their servants. In this _area_ they generally eat, and sit during the day-
+time. In the sides of the hills, and among the steep rocks, we also
+observed several holes or caves, which appeared to be inhabited; but as the
+entrance was defended with wicker-work, and we also found, in the only one
+that was visited, a stone-fence running across it within, we imagine they
+are principally designed for places of retreat, in case of an attack from
+an enemy.
+
+The food of the lower class of people consists principally of fish and
+vegetables, such as yams, sweet-potatoes, tarrow, plantains, sugar-canes,
+and bread-fruit. To these the people of a higher rank add the flesh of hogs
+and dogs, dressed in the same manner as at the Society Islands. They also
+eat fowls of the same domestic kind with ours; but they are neither
+plentiful nor much esteemed by them. It is remarked by Captain Cook, that
+the bread-fruit and yams appeared scarce amongst them, and were reckoned
+great rarities. We found this not to be the case on our second visit; and
+it is therefore most probable, that, as these vegetables were generally
+planted in the interior parts of the country, the natives had not had time
+to bring them down to us during the short stay we made at Wymoa Bay. Their
+fish, they salt, and preserve in gourd-shells; not, as we at first
+imagined, for the purpose of providing against any temporary scarcity, but
+from the preference they give to salted meats. For we also found, that the
+_Erees_ used to pickle pieces of pork in the same manner, and esteemed it a
+great delicacy.
+
+Their cookery is exactly of the same sort with that already described in
+the accounts that have been published of the other South Sea islands; and
+though Captain Cook complains of the sourness of their tarrow puddings,
+yet, in justice to the many excellent meals they afforded us in Karakakooa
+Bay, I must be permitted to rescue them from this general censure, and to
+declare, that I never eat better even in the Friendly Islands. It is
+however remarkable, that they had not got the art of preserving the bread-
+fruit, and making the sour paste of it called _Maihee_, as at the Society
+Islands; and it was some satisfaction to as, in return for their great
+kindness and hospitality, to have it in our power to teach them this useful
+secret. They are exceedingly cleanly at their meals; and their mode of
+dressing both their animal and vegetable food was universally allowed to be
+greatly superior to ours. The chiefs constantly begin their meal with a
+dose of the extract of pepper-root, brewed after the usual manner. The
+women eat apart from the men, and are _tabooed_, or forbidden, as has been
+already mentioned, the use of pork, turtle, and particular kinds of
+plantains. However, they would eat pork with us in private; but we could
+never prevail upon them to touch the two last articles.
+
+The way of spending their time appears to be very simple, and to admit of
+little variety. They rise with the sun; and, after enjoying the cool of the
+evening, retire to rest a few hours after sun-set. The making of canoes and
+mats forms the occupations of the _Erees_; the women are employed in
+manufacturing cloth; and the _Towtows_ are principally engaged in the
+plantations and fishing. Their idle hours are filled up with various
+amusements. Their young men and women are fond of dancing; and on more
+solemn occasions, they have boxing and wrestling matches, after the manner
+of the Friendly Islands; though, in all these respects, they are much
+inferior to the latter.
+
+Their dances have a much nearer resemblance to those of the New Zealanders
+than of the Otaheiteans or Friendly Islanders. They are prefaced with a
+slow, solemn song, in which all the party join, moving their legs, and
+gently striking their breasts, in a manner, and with attitudes, that are
+perfectly easy and graceful; and so far they are the same with the dancers
+of the other Society Islands. When this has lasted about ten minutes, both
+the tune and motions gradually quicken, and end only by their inability to
+support the fatigue; which part of the performance is the exact counterpart
+of that of the New Zealanders; and (as it is among them) the person who
+uses the most violent action, and holds out the longest, is applauded as
+the best dancer. It is to be observed, that, in this dance, the women only
+take a part; and that the dancing of the men is nearly of the same kind
+with what we saw of the small parties at the Friendly Islands; and which
+may, perhaps, with more propriety, be called the accompaniment of songs,
+with corresponding and graceful motions of the whole body. Yet, as we were
+spectators of boxing exhibitions, of the same kind with those we were
+entertained with at the Friendly Islands, it is probable that they had
+likewise their grand ceremonious dances, in which numbers of both sexes
+assisted.
+
+Their music is also of a ruder kind, having neither flutes nor reeds, nor
+instruments of any other sort, that we saw, except drums of various sizes.
+But their songs, which they sung in parts,[10] and accompany with a gentle
+motion of the arms, in the same manner as the Friendly Islanders, had a
+very pleasing effect.
+
+It is very remarkable that the people of these islands are great gamblers.
+They have a game very much like our draughts; but if one may judge from the
+number of squares, it is much more intricate. The board is about two feet
+long, and is divided into two hundred and thirty-eight squares, of which
+there are fourteen in a row; and they make use of black and white pebbles,
+which they move from square to square.
+
+There is another game, which consists in hiding a stone under a piece of
+cloth, which one of the parties spreads out, and rumples in such a manner
+that the place where the stone lies is difficult to be distinguished. The
+antagonist, with a stick, then strikes the part of the cloth where he
+imagines the stone to be; and as the chances are, upon the whole,
+considerably against his hitting it, odds, of all degrees, varying with the
+opinion of the skill of the parties, are laid on the side of him who hides.
+
+Besides these games, they frequently amuse themselves with racing matches
+between the boys and girls; and here, again, they wager with great spirit.
+I saw a man in a most violent rage, tearing his hair, and beating his
+breast, after losing three hatchets at one of these races, which he had
+just before purchased from us with half his substance.
+
+Swimming is not only a necessary art, in which both their men and women are
+more expert than any people we had hitherto seen, but a favourite diversion
+amongst them. One particular mode, in which they sometimes amused
+themselves with this exercise, in Karakakooa Bay, appeared to us most
+perilous and extraordinary, and well deserving a distinct relation.
+
+The surf, which breaks on the coast round the bay, extends to the distance
+of about one hundred and fifty yards from the shore, within which space the
+surges of the sea, accumulating from the shallowness of the water, are
+dashed against the beach with prodigious violence. Whenever, from stormy
+weather, or any extraordinary swell at sea, the impetuosity of the surf is
+increased to its utmost height, they choose that time for this amusement,
+which is performed in the following manner: Twenty or thirty of the
+natives, taking each a long narrow board, rounded at the ends, set out
+together from the shore. The first wave they meet they plunge under, and,
+suffering it to roll over them, rise again beyond it, and make the best of
+their way, by swimming out into the sea. The second wave is encountered in
+the same manner with the first; the great difficulty consisting in seizing
+the proper moment of diving under it, which, if missed, the person is
+caught by the surf, and driven back again with great violence; and all his
+dexterity is then required to prevent himself from being dashed against the
+rocks. As soon as they have gained, by these repeated efforts, the smooth
+water beyond the surf, they lay themselves at length on their board, and
+prepare themselves for their return. As the surf consists of a number of
+waves, of which every third is remarked to be always much larger than the
+others, and to flow higher on the shore, the rest breaking in the
+intermediate space, their first object is to place themselves on the summit
+of the largest surge, by which they are driven along with amazing rapidity
+toward the shore. If, by mistake, they should place themselves on one of
+the smaller waves, which breaks before they reach the land, or should not
+be able to keep their plank in a proper direction on the top of the swell,
+they are left exposed to the fury of the next, and, to avoid it, are
+obliged again to dive, and regain the place from which they set out. Those
+who succeed in their object of reaching the shore, have still the greatest
+danger to encounter. The coast being guarded by a chain of rocks, with here
+and there a small opening between them, they are obliged to steer their
+board through one of these, or, in case of failure, to quit it before they
+reach the rocks, and, plunging under the wave, make the best of their way
+back again. This is reckoned very disgraceful, and is also attended with
+the loss of the board, which I have often seen, with great terror, dashed
+to pieces, at the very moment the islander quitted it. The boldness and
+address with which we saw them perform these difficult and dangerous
+manoeuvres, were altogether astonishing, and is scarcely to be
+credited.[11]
+
+An accident, of which I was a near spectator, shews at how early a period
+they are so far familiarized to the water, as both to lose all fears of it,
+and to set its dangers at defiance. A canoe being overset, in which was a
+woman with her children, one of them an infant, who, I am convinced, was
+not more than four years old, seemed highly delighted with what had
+happened, swimming about at its ease, and playing a hundred tricks, till
+the canoe was put to rights again.
+
+Besides the amusements I have already mentioned, the young children have
+one, which was much played at, and shewed no small degree of dexterity.
+They take a short stick, with a peg sharpened at both ends, running through
+one extremity of it, and extending about an inch on each side; and throwing
+up a ball, made of green leaves, moulded together, and secured with twine,
+they catch it on the point of the peg; and immediately throwing it up again
+from the peg, they turn the stick round, and thus keep catching it on each
+peg alternately, without missing it, for a considerable time. They are not
+less expert at another game of the same nature, tossing up in the air, and
+catching, in their turns, a number of these balls; so that we frequently
+saw little children thus keep in motion five at a time. With this latter
+play the young people likewise divert themselves at the Friendly Islands.
+
+The great resemblance which prevails in the mode of agriculture and
+navigation, amongst all the inhabitants of the South Sea Islands, leaves me
+very little to add on those heads. Captain Cook has already described the
+figure of the canoes we saw at Atooi. Those of the other islands were
+precisely the same; and the largest we saw was a double canoe, belonging to
+Terreeoboo, which measured seventy feet in length, three and a half in
+depth, and twelve in breadth; and each was hollowed out of one tree.
+
+The progress they have made in sculpture, their skill in painting cloth,
+and their manufacturing of mats, have been all particularly described. The
+most curious specimens of the former, which we saw during our second visit,
+are the bowls in which the chiefs drink _ava_. These are usually about
+eight or ten inches in diameter, perfectly round, and beautifully polished.
+They are supported by three, and sometimes four small human figures, in
+various attitudes. Some of them rest on the hands of their supporters,
+extended over the head; others on the head and hands; and some on the
+shoulders. The figures, I am told, are accurately proportioned, and neatly
+finished, and even the anatomy of the muscles, in supporting the weight,
+well expressed.
+
+Their cloth is made of the same materials, and in the same manner, as at
+the Friendly and Society Islands. That which is designed to be painted, is
+of a thick and strong texture, several folds being beat and incorporated
+together; after which it is cut in breadths, about two or three feet wide,
+and is painted in a variety of patterns, with a comprehensiveness and
+regularity of design that bespeaks infinite taste and fancy. The exactness
+with which the most intricate patterns are continued is the more
+surprising, when we consider that they have no stamps, and that the whole
+is done by the eye, with pieces of bamboo-cane dipped in paint; the hand
+being supported by another piece of the cane, in the manner practised by
+our painters. Their colours are extracted from the same berries, and other
+vegetable substances, as at Otaheite, which have been already described by
+former voyagers.
+
+The business of painting belongs entirely to the women, and is called
+_kipparee_; and it is remarkable that they always gave the same name to our
+writing. The young women would often take the pen out of our hands, and
+shew us that they knew the use of it as well as we did; at the same time
+telling us that our pens were not so good as theirs. They looked upon a
+sheet of written paper as a piece of cloth striped after the fashion of our
+country; and it was not without the utmost difficulty that we could make
+them understand that our figures had a meaning in them which theirs had
+not.
+
+Their mats are made of the leaves of the _pandanus_; and, as well as their
+cloths, are beautifully worked in a variety of patterns, and stained of
+different colours. Some have a ground of pale green, spotted with squares
+or rhomboids of red; others are of a straw colour, spotted with green; and
+others are worked with beautiful stripes, either in straight or waving
+lines of red and brown. In this article of manufacture, whether we regard
+the strength, fineness, or beauty, they certainly excel the whole world.
+
+Their fishing-hooks are made of mother-of-pearl, bone, or wood, pointed and
+barbed with small bones or tortoise-shell. They are of various sizes and
+forms, but the most common are about two or three inches long, and made in
+the shape of a small fish, which serves as a bait, having a bunch of
+feathers tied to the head or tail. Those with which they fish for sharks
+are of a very large size, being generally six or eight inches long.
+Considering the materials of which these hooks were made, their strength
+and neatness are really astonishing; and, in fact, we found them, upon
+trial, much superior to our own.
+
+The line which they use for fishing, for making nets, and for other
+domestic purposes is of different degrees of fineness, and is made of the
+bark of the _touta_, or cloth-tree; neatly and evenly twisted, in the same
+manner as our common twine; and may be continued to any length. They have a
+finer sort, made of the bark of a small shrub, called _areemah_; and the
+finest is made of human hair; but this last is chiefly used for things of
+ornament. They also make cordage of a stronger kind, for the rigging of
+their canoes, from the fibrous coatings of the cocoa-nuts. Some of this we
+purchased for our own use, and found it well adapted to the smaller kinds
+of the running rigging. They likewise make another sort of cordage, which
+is flat, and exceedingly strong, and used principally in lashing the
+roofing of their houses, or whatever they wish to fasten tight together.
+This last is not twisted like the former sorts, but is made of the fibrous
+strings of the cocoa-nut's coat, plaited with the fingers, in the manner
+our sailors make their points for the reefing of sails.
+
+The gourds, which grow to so enormous a size, that some of them are capable
+of containing from ten to twelve gallons, are applied to all manner of
+domestic purposes; and in order to fit them the better to their respective
+uses, they have the ingenuity to give them different forms, by tying
+bandages round them during their growth. Thus some of them are of a long
+cylindrical form, as best adapted to contain their fishing-tackle; others
+are of a dish form, and these serve to hold their salt and salted
+provisions, their puddings, vegetables, &c. which two sorts have neat close
+covers, made likewise of the gourd; others, again, are exactly in the shape
+of a bottle with a long neck, and in these they keep their water. They have
+likewise a method of scoring them with a heated instrument, so as to give
+them the appearance of being painted in a variety of neat and elegant
+designs.
+
+Amongst their arts, we must not forget that of making salt, with which we
+were amply supplied during our stay at these islands, and which was
+perfectly good of its kind. Their salt-pans are made of earth, lined with
+clay; being generally six or eight feet square, and about eight inches
+deep. They are raised upon a bank of stones near to high-water mark, from
+whence the salt-water is conducted to the foot of them in small trenches,
+out of which they are filled, and the sun quickly performs the necessary
+process of evaporation. The salt we procured at Atooi and Oneeheow, on our
+first visit, was of a brown and dirty sort; but that which we afterward got
+in Karakakooa Bay was white, and of a most excellent quality, and in great
+abundance. Besides the quantity we used in salting pork, we filled all our
+empty casks, amounting to sixteen puncheons, in the Resolution only.
+
+Their instruments of war are spears, daggers, called _pahooas_, clubs, and
+slings. The spears are of two sorts, and made of a hard solid wood, which
+has much the appearance of mahogany. One sort is from six to eight feet in
+length, finely polished, and gradually increasing in thickness from the
+extremity till within about half a foot of the point, which tapers
+suddenly, and is furnished with four or six rows of barbs. It is not
+improbable that these might be used in the way of darts. The other sort,
+with which we saw the warriors at Owhyhee and Atooi mostly armed, are
+twelve or fifteen feet long, and, instead of being barbed, terminate toward
+the point like their daggers.
+
+The dagger, or _pahooa_, is made of heavy black wood, resembling ebony. Its
+length is from one to two feet, with a string passing through the handle,
+for the purpose of suspending it to the arm.
+
+The clubs are made indifferently of several sorts of wood. They are of rude
+workmanship, and of a variety of shapes and sizes.
+
+The slings have nothing singular about them; and in no respect differ from
+our common slings, except that the stone is lodged on a piece of matting
+instead of leather.
+
+
+[5] The nice and highly interesting subject now adverted to, it is evident,
+    will require a very extensive and cautious enquiry, and cannot
+    possibly be discussed in the small compass allotted to notes. See
+    Forster's Observations. But additional information has been obtained
+    since the time of that author.--E.
+
+[6] There is good reason to imagine that most of the early voyagers into
+    the South Sea, have exaggerated the numbers of the inhabitants in the
+    various groups of islands they met with. The present calculation, most
+    readers will believe, is beyond the truth. Certain however it is, that
+    almost all the recent accounts are at variance with such astonishing
+    estimates as were formerly made. But, on the other hand, Mr.
+    Pinkerton's assertion, that "it is probable there are not above
+    300,000 souls in all Australasia and Polynesia," (Geog. 3d ed. 2d vol.
+    p. 172,) must appear so extraordinary when considered in opposition to
+    them, as at once to convey the notion of a bold adventure. Yet even
+    this admits of some degree of probability, from the account formerly
+    given, of the immense decrease in the population of Otaheite.
+    Altogether the subject is imperfectly understood, and labours under
+    peculiar difficulties; we ought to listen with some hesitation,
+    therefore, to all assertions respecting it.--E.
+
+[7] We have elsewhere had occasion to take notice of the fact of human
+    sacrifices and cannibalism, forming an essential particular in the
+    history of all the South Sea islanders. It is unnecessary to occupy a
+    moment's attention in farther enquiry respecting it, as perhaps no
+    question, in the circle of philosophical research, has received more
+    complete solution by the testimony of credible witnesses. He that
+    shall attempt to controvert their evidence, will have need of all the
+    effrontery and invincibility to truth that ever stamped the forehead
+    or hardened the heart of a polemist.--E.
+
+[8] Here, then, we have two reasons for the practice of tattowing, in
+    addition to those which we enumerated in the account of Cook's first
+    voyage, provided only that Captain King's information can he relied
+    on. The first of these, it may be remarked, is so extremely similar to
+    the practice of wounding or cutting the body for the dead, which has
+    prevailed so extensively, that we can have no difficulty in allowing
+    the full force of the observation. But, with respect to the second,
+    one may incline to demur, on the ground of the improbability that such
+    a state of servitude as it implies, could exist in so apparently
+    primitive a condition of society. This, however, is not difficult of
+    explanation, as the reader will find in the following section, from
+    which one may safely infer, that the government of the Sandwich
+    islands is by no means one which requires for its exhibition, the
+    innocence, the liberty, and equality of the golden age. Some
+    conclusion may hence be drawn as to the probable origin and antiquity
+    of these islanders. But it is obvious that we are far from possessing
+    sufficient data to enable us to enter satisfactorily on the discussion
+    of the topic.--E.
+
+[9] Mr Playfair in his Geography, vol. vi. p. 839, asserts, that the
+    Sandwich islands were first discovered by Gaetano, a Spanish
+    navigator, in 1542; but he does not assign his authority, or give any
+    clue for which the position may be verified. The fact is certainly
+    probable, as Captain King seems to admit; and supposing it so, we can
+    easily conceive that the distance of time from the period of the
+    discovery above stated, would be quite sufficient to account for the
+    natives having no tradition of such a visit. Even a much shorter
+    period would be adequate for the total loss of almost any event in the
+    current history of a people, who had no other method of preserving it
+    than the impression it made on the senses, and to whom there was no
+    excitement to impress it on the memories of succeeding generations,
+    arising from the importance of the circumstances connected with it.
+    The possession of iron, indeed, supposing it traced to this source,
+    may be alleged too valuable, to have admitted such total forgetfulness
+    of the event which occasioned it. But this difficulty readily resolves
+    into a general remark, that even in more fortunate situations, the
+    authors and occasions of many discoveries and inventions are soon lost
+    sight of, in the more interesting experience of the utility that
+    commends them. Men, in fact, are always much more anxious to avail
+    themselves of the advantages which genius or accident has presented to
+    their notice, than careful to testify gratitude by ascertaining and
+    perpetuating the original sources to which they have been indebted. A
+    case, not indeed quite parallel, instantly occurs to recollection. How
+    few persons are there in this island, who have the smallest
+    conception, to whom it is they are indebted for the introduction of
+    that valuable vegetable the potatoe? The incident, no doubt, is
+    recorded in the history of our country. But is there one in a thousand
+    to whom the article is so familiar, that knows whence it came; or is
+    it conceivable, that, without such a record, any individual of the
+    present generation would have doubted for a moment that it was
+    indigenous to Britain? We might multiply such examples almost without
+    end. But the reader may like better to amuse himself with an enquiry
+    into the extent of common ignorance and indifference.--E.
+
+[10] As this circumstance, of their _singing in parts_, has been much
+    doubted by persons eminently skilled in music, and would be
+    exceedingly curious if it were clearly ascertained, it is to be
+    lamented that it cannot be more positively authenticated.
+
+    Captain Burney, and Captain Phillips, of the marines, who both have a
+    tolerable knowledge of music, have given it as their opinion, that
+    they did sing in parts; that is to say, that they sung together in
+    different notes, which formed a pleasing harmony.
+
+    These gentlemen have fully testified, that the Friendly Islanders
+    undoubtedly studied their performances before they were exhibited in
+    public; that they had an idea of different notes being useful in
+    harmony; and also, that they rehearsed their compositions in private,
+    and threw out the inferior voices, before they ventured to appear
+    before those who were supposed to be judges of their skill in music.
+
+    In their regular concerts each man had a bamboo, which was of a
+    different length and gave a different tone; these they beat against
+    the ground, and each performer, assisted by the note given by this
+    instrument, repeated the same note, accompanying it by words, by which
+    means it was rendered sometimes short and sometimes long. In this
+    manner they sing in chorus, and not only produced octaves to each
+    other, according to their different species of voice, but fell on
+    concords, such as were not disagreeable to the ear.
+
+    Now, to overturn this fact, by the reasoning of persons who did not
+    hear these performances, is rather an arduous task. And yet there is
+    great improbability, that any uncivilized people should, by accident,
+    arrive at this degree of perfection in the art of music, which, we
+    imagine, can only be attained by dint of study, and knowledge of the
+    system and theory upon which musical composition is founded. Such
+    miserable jargon as our country psalm-singers practise, which may be
+    justly deemed the lowest class of counterpoint, or singing in several
+    parts, cannot be acquired, in the coarse manner in which it is
+    performed in the churches, without considerable time and practice. It
+    is therefore scarcely credible, that a people, semi-barbarous, should
+    naturally arrive at any perfection in that art, which it is much
+    doubted, whether the Greeks and Romans, with all their refinements in
+    music, ever attained, and which the Chinese, who have been longer
+    civilized than any people on the globe, have not yet found out.
+
+    If Captain Burney (who, by the testimony of his father, perhaps the
+    greatest musical theorist of this or any other age, was able to have
+    done it) had written down, in European notes, the concords that these
+    people sing; and if these concords had been such as European ears
+    could tolerate, there would have been no longer doubt of the fact;
+    but, as it is, it would, in my opinion, be a rash judgment to venture
+    to affirm, that they did or did not understand counterpoint; and
+    therefore I fear that this curious matter must be considered as still
+    remaining undecided.
+
+[11] An amusement somewhat similar to this, at Otaheite, has been elsewhere
+    described.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION VIII.
+
+
+General Account of the Sandwich Islands, continued.--Government.--People
+divided into three Classes,--Power of Erreetaboo.--Genealogy of the Kings
+of Owhyhee and Mowee.--Power of the Chiefs.--State of the inferior Class.
+--Punishment of Crimes.--Religion.--Society of Priests.--The Orono.--Their
+Idols.--Songs chanted by the Chiefs, before they drink Ava.--Human
+Sacrifices.--Custom of knocking out the fore Teeth.--Notions with regard to
+a future State.--Marriages.--Remarkable Instance of Jealousy.--Funeral
+Rites.
+
+
+The people of these islands are manifestly divided into three classes. The
+first are the _Erees_, or chiefs, of each district, one of which is
+superior to the rest, and is called at Owhyhee _Eree-taboo_, and _Eree-
+moee_. By the first of these words they express his absolute authority; and
+by the latter, that all are obliged to prostrate themselves (or put
+themselves to sleep, as the word signifies) in his presence. The second
+class are those who appear to enjoy a right of property without authority.
+The third are the _towtows_, or servants, who have neither rank nor
+property.
+
+It is not possible to give any thing like a systematical account of the
+subordination of these classes to each other, without departing from that
+strict veracity, which, in works of this nature, is more satisfactory than
+conjectures, however ingenious. I will, therefore, content myself with
+relating such facts as we were witnesses to ourselves, and such accounts as
+we thought could be depended upon; and shall leave the reader to form from
+them his own ideas of the nature of their government.
+
+The great power and high rank of Terreeoboo, the _Eree-taboo_ of Owhyhee,
+was very evident, from the manner in which he was received at Karakakooa,
+on his first arrival. All the natives were seen prostrated at the entrance
+of their houses; and the canoes, for two days before, were _tabooed_, or
+forbidden to go out, till he took off the restraint. He was at this time
+just returned from Mowee, for the possession of which he was contending in
+favour of his son Teewarro, who had married the daughter and only child of
+the late king of that island, against Tabeeterree, his surviving brother.
+He was attended, in this expedition, by many of his warriors; but whether
+their service was voluntary, or the condition on which they hold their rank
+and property, we could not learn.
+
+That he collects tribute from the subordinate chiefs, we had a very
+striking proof in the instance of Kaoo, which has been already related in
+our transactions of the 2d and 3d of February.
+
+I have before mentioned, that the two most powerful chiefs of these
+islands, are, Terreeoboo of Owhyhee, and Perreeorannee of Wohahoo; the rest
+of the smaller isles being subject to one or other of these; Mowee, and its
+dependencies, being at this time claimed, as we have just observed, by
+Terreeoboo, for Teewarro, his son and intended successor; Atooi and
+Oneeheow being governed by the grandsons of Perreorannee.
+
+The following genealogy of the Owhyhee and Mowee kings, which I collected
+from the priests, during our residence at the _morai_, in Karakakooa Bay,
+contains all the information I could procure relative to the political
+history of these islands.
+
+This account reaches to four chiefs, predecessors of the present; all of
+whom they represent to have lived to an old age. Their names and
+successions are as follows:
+
+First, Poorahoo Awhykaia was king of Owhyhee, and had an only son called
+Neerooagooa. At this time Mowee was governed by Mokoakea, who had also an
+only son, named Papikaneeou.
+
+Secondly, Neerooagooa had three sons, the eldest named Kahavee; and
+Papikaneeou, of the Mowee race, had an only son, named Kaowreeka.
+
+Thirdly, Kahavee had an only son, Kayenewee a mummow; and Kaowreeka, the
+Mowee king, had two sons, Maiha-maiha, and Taheeterree; the latter of whom
+is now, by one party, acknowledged chief of Mowee.
+
+Fourthly, Kayenewee a mummow had two sons, Terreeoboo and Kaihooa; and
+Maiha-maiha, king of Mowee, had no son, but left a daughter called Roaho.
+
+Fifthly, Terreeoboo, the present king of Owhyhee, had a son, named
+Teewarro, by Rora-rora, the widow of Maiha-maiha, late king of Mowee; and
+this son has married Roaho, his half-sister, in whose right he claims Mowee
+and its appendages.
+
+Taheeterree, the brother of the late king, supported by a considerable
+party, who were not willing that the possessions should go into another
+family, took up arms, and opposed the rights of his niece.
+
+When we were first off Mowee, Terreeoboo was there with his warriors, to
+support the claims of his wife, his son, and daughter-in-law, and had
+fought a battle with the opposite party, in which Taheeterree was worsted.
+We afterwards understood that matters had been compromised, and that
+Taheeterree is to have the possession of the three neighbouring islands
+during his life; that Teewarro is acknowledged the chief of Mowee, and will
+also succeed to the kingdom of Owhyhee on the death of Terreeoboo; and also
+to the sovereignty of the three Islands contiguous to Mowee, on the death
+of Taheeterree. Teewarro has been lately married to his half-sister, and,
+should he die without issue, the government of these islands descends to
+Maiha-maiha, whom we have often had occasion to mention, he being the son
+of Kaihooa, the deceased brother of Terreeoboo. Should he also die without
+issue, they could not tell who would succeed; for the two youngest sons of
+Terreeoboo, one of whom he appears to be exceedingly fond of, being born of
+a woman of no rank, would, from this circumstance, be debarred all right of
+succession. We had not an opportunity of seeing queen Rora-rora, whom
+Terreeoboo had left behind at Mowee; but we have already had occasion to
+take notice, that he was accompanied by Kanee-kabareea, the mother of the
+two youths, to whom he was much attached.
+
+From this account of the genealogy of the Owhyhee and Mowee monarchs, it is
+pretty clear that the government is hereditary; which also makes it very
+probable, that the inferior titles, and property itself, descend in the
+same course. With regard to Perreeorannee, we could only learn that he is
+an _Ere-taboo_; that he was invading the possession of Taheeterree, but on
+what pretence we were not informed; and that his grandsons governed the
+islands to leeward.
+
+The power of the _Erees_ over the inferior classes of people appears to be
+very absolute. Many instances of this occurred daily during our stay
+amongst them, and have been already related. The people, on the other hand,
+pay them the most implicit obedience; and this state of servility has
+manifestly had a great effect in debasing both their minds and bodies. It
+is, however, remarkable, that the chiefs were never guilty, as far at least
+as came within my knowledge, of any acts of cruelty or injustice, or even
+of insolent behaviour toward them; though, at the same time, they exercised
+their power over one another in the most haughty and oppressive manner. Of
+this I shall give two instances. A chief of the lower order had behaved
+with great civility to the master of the ship, when he went to examine
+Karakakooa Bay, the day before the ship first arrived there; and, in
+return, I afterward carried him on board, and introduced him to Captain
+Cook, who invited him to dine with us. While we were at table, Pareea
+entered, whose face but too plainly manifested his indignation at seeing
+our guest in so honourable a situation. He immediately seized him by the
+hair of the head, and was proceeding to drag him out of the cabin, when the
+captain interfered, and, after a great deal of altercation, all the
+indulgence we could obtain, without coming to a quarrel with Pareea, was,
+that our guest should be suffered to remain, being seated upon the floor,
+whilst Pareea filled his place at the table. At another time, when
+Terreeoboo first came on board the Resolution, Maiha-maiha, who attended
+him, finding Pareea on deck, turned him out of the ship in the most
+ignominious manner; and yet Pareea we certainly knew to be a man of the
+first consequence.
+
+How far the property of the lower class is secured against the rapacity and
+despotism of the great chiefs, I cannot say, but it should seem that it is
+sufficiently protected against private theft, or mutual depredation; for
+not only their plantations, which are spread over the whole country, but
+also their houses, their hogs, and their cloth, were left unguarded,
+without the smallest apprehensions. I have already remarked, that they not
+only separate their possessions by walls in the plain country, but that, in
+the woods likewise, wherever the horse-plantains grow, they make use of
+small white flags, in the same manner, and for the same purpose of
+discriminating property, as they do bunches of leaves at Otaheite. All
+which circumstances, if they do not amount to proofs, are strong
+indications that the power of the chiefs, where property is concerned, is
+not arbitrary, but at least so far circumscribed and ascertained, as to
+make it worth the while for the inferior orders to cultivate the soil, and
+to occupy their possessions distinct from each other.
+
+With respect to the administration of justice, all the information we could
+collect was very imperfect and confined. Whenever any of the lowest class
+of people had a quarrel amongst themselves, the matter in dispute was
+referred to the decision of some chief, probably the chief of the district,
+or the person to whom they appertained. If an inferior chief had given
+cause of offence to one of a higher rank, the feelings of the latter at the
+moment seemed the only measure of his punishment. If he had the good
+fortune to escape the first transports of his superior's rage, he generally
+found means, through the mediation of some third person, to compound for
+his crime by a part or the whole of his property and effects. These were
+the only facts that came to our knowledge on this head.
+
+The religion of these people resembles, in most of its principal features,
+that of the Society and Friendly Islands. Their _morais_, their _whattas_,
+their idols, their sacrifices, and their sacred songs, all of which they
+have in common with each other, are convincing proofs that their religious
+notions are derived from the same source. In the length and number of their
+ceremonies, this branch indeed far exceeds the rest; and though in all
+these countries there is a certain class of men, to whose care the
+performance of their religious rites is committed, yet we never met with a
+regular society of priests, till we discovered the cloisters of Kakooa in
+Karakakooa Bay. The head of this order was called _Orono_; a title which we
+imagined to imply something highly sacred, and which, in the person of
+Omeeah, was honoured almost to adoration. It is probable, that the
+privilege of entering into this order (at least as to the principal offices
+in it) is limited to certain families. Omeeah, the _Orono_, was the son of
+Kaoo, and the uncle of Kaireekeea, which last presided, during the absence
+of his grandfather, in all religious ceremonies at the _morai_. It was also
+remarked, that the child of Omeeah, an only son, about five years old, was
+never suffered to appear without a number of attendants, and such other
+marks of care and solicitude as we saw no other like instance of. This
+seemed to indicate that his life was an object of the greatest moment, and
+that he was destined to succeed to the high rank of his father.
+
+It has been mentioned, that the title of _Orono_, with all its honours, was
+given to Captain Cook; and it is also certain that they regarded us
+generally as a race of people superior to themselves, and used often to say
+that great _Eatoua_ dwelled in our country. The little image, which we have
+before described as the favourite idol on the _morai_ in Karakakooa Bay,
+they call _Koonooraekaiee_, and said it was Terreeoboo's god, and that he
+also resided amongst us.
+
+There are found an infinite variety of these images both on the _morais_,
+and within and without their houses, to which they give different names;
+but it soon became obvious to us in how little estimation they were held,
+from their frequent expressions of contempt of them, and from their even
+offering them to sale for trifles. At the same time there seldom failed to
+be some one particular figure in favour, to which, whilst this preference
+lasted, all their adoration was addressed. This consisted in arraying it in
+red cloth, beating their drums, and singing hymns before it, laying bunches
+of red feathers, and different sorts of vegetables, at its feet, and
+exposing a pig or a dog to rot on the _whatta_, that stood near it.
+
+In a bay to the southward of Karakakooa, a party of our gentlemen were
+conducted to a large house, in which they found the black figure of a man,
+resting on his fingers and toes, with his head inclined backward, the limbs
+well formed, and exactly proportioned, and the whole beautifully polished.
+This figure the natives call _Maee_; and round it were placed thirteen
+others of rude and distorted shapes, which they said were the _Eatooas_ of
+several deceased chiefs, whose names they recounted. The place was full of
+_whattas_, on which lay the remains of their offerings. They likewise give
+a place in their houses to many ludicrous and some obscene idols, like the
+Priapus of the ancients.
+
+It hath been remarked by former voyagers, that, both among the Society and
+Friendly Islanders, an adoration is paid to particular birds; and I am led
+to believe that the same custom prevails here; and that, probably, the
+raven is the object of it, from seeing two of these birds tame at the
+village of Kakooa, which they told me were _Eatooas_; and, refusing every
+thing I offered for them, cautioned me, at the same time, not to hurt or
+offend them.
+
+Amongst their religious ceremonies may be reckoned the prayers and
+offerings made by the priests before their meals. Whilst the _ava_ is
+chewing, of which they always drink before they begin their repast, the
+person of the highest rank takes the lead in a sort of hymn, in which he is
+presently joined by one, two, or more of the company; the rest moving their
+bodies, and striking their hands gently together, in concert with the
+singers. When the _ava_ is ready, cups of it are handed about to those who
+did not join in the song, which they keep in their hands till it is ended;
+when, uniting in one loud response, they drink off their cup. The
+performers of the hymn are then served with _ava_, who drink it after a
+repetition of the same ceremony; and if there be present one of a very
+superior rank, a cup is, last of all, presented to him, which, after
+chanting some time alone, and being answered by the rest, and pouring a
+little out on the ground, he drinks off. A piece of the flesh that is
+dressed is next cut off, without any selection of the part of the animal,
+which, together with some of the vegetables, being deposited at the foot of
+the image of the _Eatooa_, and a hymn chanted, their meal commences. A
+ceremony of much the same kind is also performed by the chiefs, whenever
+they drink _ava_ between their meals.
+
+Human sacrifices are more frequent here, according to the account of the
+natives themselves, than in any other islands we visited. These horrid
+rites are not only had recourse to upon the commencement of war, and
+preceding great battles and other signal enterprises, but the death of any
+considerable chief calls for a sacrifice of one or more _Towtows_,
+according to his rank; and we were told, that ten men were destined to
+suffer on the death of Terreeoboo. What may, if any thing possibly can,
+lessen, in some small degree, the horror of this practice is, that the
+unhappy victims have not the most distant intimation of their fate. Those
+who are fixed upon to fall, are set upon with clubs wherever they happen to
+be, and, after being dispatched, are brought dead to the place, where the
+remainder of the rites are completed. The reader will here call to his
+remembrance the skulls of the captives that had been sacrificed at the
+death of some great chief, and which were fixed on the rails round the top
+of the _morai_ at Kakooa. We got a farther piece of intelligence upon this
+subject at the village of Kowrowa; where, on our enquiring into the use of
+a small piece of ground, inclosed with a stone-fence, we were told that it
+was an _Here-eere_, or burying-ground of a chief; and there, added our
+informer, pointing to one of the corners, lie the _tangata_ and _waheene
+taboo_, or the man and woman who were sacrificed at his funeral.
+
+To this class of their customs may also be referred that of knocking out
+their fore-teeth. Scarce any of the lower people, and very few of the
+chiefs, were seen, who had not lost one or more of them; and we always
+understood that this voluntary punishment, like the cutting off the joints
+of the finger at the Friendly Islands, was not inflicted on themselves from
+the violence of grief on the death of their friends, but was designed as a
+propitiatory sacrifice to the _Eatooa_, to avert any danger or mischief to
+which they might be exposed.
+
+We were able to learn but little of their notions with regard to a future
+state. Whenever we asked them whither the dead were gone? we were always
+answered, that the breath, which they appeared to consider as the soul, or
+immortal part, was gone to the _Eatooa_; and, on pushing our enquiries
+farther, they seemed to describe some particular place, where they imagined
+the abode of the deceased to be; but we could not perceive that they
+thought, in this state, either rewards or punishments awaited them.
+
+Having promised the reader an explanation of what was meant by the word
+_taboo_, I shall, in this place, lay before him the particular instances
+that fell under our observation of its application and effects. On our
+enquiring into the reasons of the interdiction of all intercourse between
+us and the natives, the day preceding the arrival of Terreeoboo, we were
+told that the bay was _tabooed_. The same restriction took place, at our
+request, the day we interred the bones of Captain Cook. In these two
+instances the natives paid the most implicit and scrupulous obedience, but
+whether on any religious principle, or merely in deference to the civil
+authority of their chiefs, I cannot determine. When the ground near our
+observatories, and the place where our masts lay, were _tabooed_, by
+sticking small wands round them, this operated in a manner not less
+efficacious. But though this mode of consecration was performed by the
+priests only, yet still, as the men ventured to come within the space, when
+invited by us, it should seem that they were under no religious
+apprehensions, and that their obedience was limited to our refusal only.
+The women could, by no means, be induced to come near us; but this was
+probably on account of the _morai_ adjoining, which they are prohibited, at
+all times, and in all the islands of those seas, from approaching. Mention
+hath been already made, that women are always _tabooed_, or forbidden to
+eat certain kind of meats. We also frequently saw several at their meals,
+who had the meat put into their mouths by others; and, on our asking the
+reason of this singularity, were told that they were _tabooed_, or
+forbidden to feed themselves. This prohibition, we understood, was always
+laid on them after they had assisted at any funeral, or touched a dead
+body, and also on other occasions. It is necessary to observe, that on
+these occasions they apply the word _taboo_ indifferently both to persons
+and things. Thus they say, the natives were _tabooed_, or the bay was
+_tabooed_, and so of the rest. This word is also used to express any thing
+sacred, or eminent, or devoted. Thus the king of Owhyhee was called _Eree-
+taboo_, a human victim _tangata-taboo_; and, in the same manner, among the
+Friendly Islanders, Tonga, the island where the king resides, is named
+_Tonga-taboo_.
+
+Concerning their marriages, I can afford the reader little farther
+satisfaction than informing him, that such a relation or compact exists
+amongst them. I have already had occasion to mention, that at the time
+Terreeoboo had left his queen Rora-rora at Mowee, he was attended by
+another woman, by whom he had children, and to whom he was very much
+attached; but how far polygamy, properly speaking, is allowed, or how far
+it is mixed with concubinage, either with respect to the king, the chiefs,
+or among the inferior orders, too few facts came to our knowledge to
+justify any conclusions. It hath also been observed, that, except
+Kaneekabareea, and the wife of the Orono, with three women whom I shall
+have occasion hereafter to mention, we never saw any female of high rank.
+From what I had an opportunity of observing of the domestic concerns of the
+lowest class, the house seemed to be under the direction of one man and
+woman, and the children in the like state of subordination as in civilized
+countries.
+
+It will not be improper, in this place, to take notice, that we were eye-
+witnesses of a fact, which, as it was the only instance we saw of any thing
+like jealousy among them, shews, at the same time, that not only fidelity,
+but a degree of reserve, is required from the married women of consequence.
+At one of the entertainments of boxing, Omeeah was observed to rise from
+his place two or three times, and to go up to his wife with strong marks of
+displeasure, ordering her, as it appeared to us from his manner, to
+withdraw. Whether it was, that being very handsome, he thought she drew too
+much of our attention, or without being able to determine what other reason
+he might have for his conduct, it is but justice to say, that there existed
+no real cause of jealousy. However, she kept her place, and when the
+entertainment was over, joined our party, and, soliciting some trifling
+presents, was given to understand that we had none about us, but that if
+she would accompany us toward our tent, she should return with such as she
+liked best. She was accordingly walking along with us, which Omeeah
+observing, followed in a violent rage, and seizing her by the hair, began
+to inflict, with his fists, a severe corporeal punishment. This sight,
+especially as we had innocently been the cause of it, gave us much concern;
+and yet we were told, that it would be highly improper to interfere between
+man and wife of such high rank. We were, however, not left without the
+consolation of seeing the natives at last interpose, and had the farther
+satisfaction of meeting them together the next day, in perfect good humour
+with each other; and, what is still more singular, the lady would not
+suffer us to remonstrate with her husband on his treatment of her, which we
+were much inclined to do, and plainly told us, that he had done no more
+than he ought.
+
+Whilst I was ashore at the observatory at Karakakooa Bay, I had twice an
+opportunity of seeing a considerable part of their funeral rites.
+Intelligence was brought me of the death of an old chief in a house near
+our observatories, soon after the event happened. On going to the place, I
+found a number of people assembled, and seated round a square area,
+fronting the house in which the deceased lay, whilst a man, in a red-
+feathered cap, advanced from an interior part of the house to the door,
+and, putting out his head, at almost every moment uttered a most lamentable
+howl, accompanied with the most singular grimaces and violent distortions
+of his face that can be conceived. After this had passed a short time, a
+large mat was spread upon the area, and two men and thirteen women came out
+of the house, and sate themselves down upon it, in three equal rows; the
+two men and three of the women being in front. The necks and hands of the
+women were decorated with, feathered ruffs; and broad green leaves,
+curiously scolloped, were spread over their shoulders. At one corner of
+this _area_, near a small hut, were half a dozen boys, waving small white
+banners, and the tufted wands, or _taboo_ sticks which, have been often
+mentioned, who would not permit us to approach them. This led me to imagine
+that the dead body might be deposited in this little hut; but I afterwards
+understood, that it was in the house where the man in the red cap opened
+the rites, by playing his tricks at the door. The company just mentioned
+being seated on the mat, began to sing a melancholy tune, accompanied with
+a slow and gentle motion of the body and arms. When this had continued some
+time, they raised themselves on their knees, and, in a posture between
+kneeling and sitting, began by degrees to move their arms and their bodies
+with great rapidity, the tune always keeping pace with their motions. As
+these last exertions were too violent to continue long, they resumed, at
+intervals, their slower movements; and, after this performance had lasted
+an hour, more mats were brought and spread upon the area, and four or five
+elderly women, amongst whom I was told was the dead chief's wife, advanced
+slowly out of the house, and seating themselves in the front of the first
+company, began to cry and wail most bitterly; the women in the three rows
+behind joining them, whilst the two men inclined their heads over them in a
+very melancholy and pensive attitude. At this period of the rites, I was
+obliged to leave them to attend at the observatory; but returning within
+half an hour, found them in the same situation. I continued with them till
+late in the evening, and left them proceeding, with little variation, as
+just described; resolving, however, to attend early in the morning, to see
+the remainder of the ceremony. On my arrival at the house, as soon as it
+was day, I found, to my mortification, the crowd dispersed, and every thing
+quiet; and was given to understand, that the corpse was removed; nor could
+I learn in what manner it was disposed of. I was interrupted in making
+farther enquiries for this purpose, by the approach of three women of rank,
+who, whilst their attendants stood near them with their fly-flaps, sat down
+by us, and, entering into conversation, soon made me comprehend that our
+presence was a hindrance to the performance of some necessary rites. I had
+hardly got out of sight, before I heard their cries and lamentations; and
+meeting them a few hours afterward, I found they had painted the lower part
+of their faces perfectly black.
+
+The other opportunity I had of observing these ceremonies, was in the case
+of an ordinary person; when, on hearing some mournful female cries issue
+from a miserable-looking hut, I ventured into it, and found an old woman
+with her daughter, weeping over the body of an elderly man, who had but
+just expired, being still warm. The first step they took was to cover the
+body with cloth, after which, lying down by it, they drew the cloth over
+themselves, and then began a mournful kind of song, frequently repeating,
+_Aweh medooah! Aweh tanee!_ Oh my father! Oh my husband! A younger daughter
+was also at the same time lying prostrate, in a corner of the house,
+covered over with black cloth, repeating the same words. On leaving this
+melancholy scene, I found at the door a number of their neighbours
+collected together, and listening to their cries with profound silence. I
+was resolved not to miss this opportunity of seeing in what manner they
+dispose of the body; and, therefore, after satisfying myself before I went
+to bed that it was not then removed, I gave orders that the sentries should
+walk backward and forward before the house, and, in case they suspected any
+measures were taking for the removal of the body, to give me immediate
+notice. However, the sentries had not kept a good look-out, for in the
+morning I found the body was gone. On enquiring what they had done with it,
+they pointed toward the sea; indicating most probably thereby, that it had
+been committed to the deep, or perhaps that it had been carried beyond the
+bay, to some burying-ground in another part of the country. The chiefs are
+interred in the _morais_, or _He-ree-erees_, with the men sacrificed on the
+occasion, by the side of them; and we observed that the _morai_, where the
+chief had been buried, who, as I have already mentioned, was killed in the
+cave after so stout a resistance, was hung round with red cloth.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+
+TRANSACTIONS DURING THE SECOND EXPEDITION TO THE NORTH, BY THE WAY OF
+KAMTSCHATKA; AND ON THE RETURN HOME BY THE WAY OF CANTON AND THE CAPE OF
+GOOD HOPE.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION I.
+
+
+Departure from Oneeheow--Fruitless Attempt to discover Modoopapappa.--
+Course steered for Awatska Bay.--Occurrences during that Passage.--Sudden
+Change from Heat to Cold.--Distress occasioned by the leaking of the
+Resolution.--View of the Coast of Kamtschatka.--Extreme Rigour of the
+Climate.--Lose Sight of the Discovery.--The Resolution enters the Bay of
+Awatska.--Prospect of the Town of Saint Peter and Saint Paul.--Party sent
+ashore.--Their Reception by the Commanding-Officer of the Port.--Message
+dispatched to the Commander at Bolcheretsk.--Arrival of the
+Discovery.--Return of the Messengers from the Commander.--Extraordinary
+Mode of Travelling.--Visit from a Merchant and a German Servant belonging
+to the Commander.
+
+
+On the 15th of March, at seven in the morning, we weighed anchor, and
+passing to the north of Tahoora, stood on to the south-west, in hopes of
+falling in with the island of Modoopapappa, which, we were told by the
+natives, lay in that direction, about five hours sail from Tahoora. At four
+in the afternoon, we were overtaken by a stout canoe, with ten men, who
+were going from Oneeheow to Tahoora, to kill tropic and man-of-war birds,
+with which that place was said to abound. It has been mentioned before,
+that the feathers of these birds are in great request, being much used in
+making their cloaks and other ornamental parts of their dress.
+
+At eight, having seen nothing of the island, we hauled the wind to the
+northward till midnight, and then tacked, and stood on a wind to the south-
+east till day-light next morning, at which time Tahoora bore E.N.E., five
+or six leagues distant. We afterward steered W.S.W, and made the
+Discovery's signal to spread four miles upon our starboard-beam. At noon
+our latitude was 21 deg. 27', and our longitude 198 deg. 42'; and having stood on
+till five, in the same direction, we made the Discovery's signal to come
+under our stern, and gave over all hopes of seeing Modoopapappa. We
+conceived that it might probably lie in a more southerly direction from
+Tahoora, than that in which we had steered; though, after all, it is
+possible that we might have passed it in the night, as the islanders
+described it to be very small, and almost even with the surface of the sea.
+
+The next day we steered west; it being Captain Clerke's intention to keep
+as near as possible in the same parallel of latitude, till we should make
+the longitude of Awatska Bay, and afterward to steer due north for the
+harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul in that bay, which was also appointed
+for our rendezvous in case of separation. This track was chosen on account
+of its being, as far as we knew, unexplored; and we were not without hopes
+of falling in with some new island on our passage.
+
+We had scarcely seen a bird since our losing sight of Tahoora, till the
+18th in the afternoon, when, being in the latitude of 21 deg. 12', and the
+longitude of 194 deg. 45', the appearance of a great many boobies, and some
+man-of-war birds, made us keep a sharp look-out for land. Toward evening
+the wind lessened, and the north-east swell, which, on the 16th and 17th,
+had been so heavy as to make the ships labour exceedingly, was much abated.
+The next day we saw no appearance of land; and at noon, we steered a point
+more to the southward, viz. W. by S., in the hopes of finding the trade-
+winds, (which blew almost invariably from the E. by N.,) fresher as we
+advanced within the tropic. It is somewhat singular that, though we saw no
+birds in the forenoon, yet toward evening we had again a number of boobies
+and man-of-war birds about us. This seemed to indicate that we had passed
+the land from whence the former flights had come, and that we were
+approaching some other low island.[12]
+
+The wind continued very moderate, with fine weather, till the 23d, when it
+freshened from the N.E. by E., and increased to a strong gale, which split
+some of our old sails, and made the running rigging very frequently give
+way. This gale lasted twelve hours; it then became more moderate, and
+continued so till the 25th at noon, when we entirely lost it, and had only
+a very light air.
+
+On the 26th, in the morning, we thought we saw land to the W.S.W.; but,
+after running about sixteen leagues in that direction, we found our
+mistake; and night coming on, we again steered W. Our latitude, at this
+time, was 19 deg. 45', which was the greatest southing we made in this run; our
+longitude was 183 deg., and variation 12 deg. 45' E. We continued in this course,
+with little alteration in the wind, till the 29th, when it shifted to the
+S.E. and S.S.E., and, for a few hours in the night, it was in the W.; the
+weather being dark and cloudy, with much rain. We had met, for some days
+past, several turtles, one of which was the smallest I ever saw, not
+exceeding three inches in length. We were also accompanied by man-of-war
+birds, and boobies of an unusual kind, being quite white, except the tip of
+the wing, which was black, and easily mistaken, at first sight, for
+gannets.
+
+The light winds which we had met with for some time past, with the present
+unsettled state of the weather, and the little appearance of any change for
+the better, induced Captain Clerke to alter his plan of keeping within the
+tropical latitudes; and accordingly, at six this evening, we began to steer
+N.W. by N., at which time our latitude was 20 deg. 23', and our longitude 180 deg.
+40'. During the continuance of the light winds, which prevailed almost
+constantly ever since our departure from the Sandwich Islands, the weather
+was very close, and the air hot and sultry; the thermometer being generally
+at 80 deg., and sometimes at 83 deg.. All this time we had a considerable swell
+from the N.E.; and in no period of the voyage did the ships roll and strain
+so violently.
+
+In the morning of the 1st of April, the wind changed from the S.E. to the
+N.E. by E., and blew a fresh breeze till the morning of the 4th, when it
+altered two points more to the E., and by noon increased to a strong gale,
+which lasted till the afternoon of the 5th, attended with hazy weather. It
+then again altered its direction to the S.E., became more moderate, and was
+accompanied by heavy showers of rain. During all this time, we kept
+steering to the N.W. against a slow, but regular current from that quarter,
+which caused a constant variation from our reckoning by the log, of fifteen
+miles a day. On the 4th, being then in the latitude 26 deg. 17', and longitude
+173 deg. 30', we passed prodigious quantities of what sailors call Portuguese
+men-of-war (_holothuria physalis_), and were also accompanied with a great
+number of sea-birds, amongst which we observed, for the first time, the
+albatross and sheerwater.
+
+On the 6th, at noon, we lost the trade-wind, and were suddenly taken aback,
+with the wind from the N.N.W. At this time our latitude was 29 deg. 50', and
+our longitude 170 deg. l'. As the old running ropes were constantly breaking in
+the late gales, we reeved what new ones we had left, and made such other
+preparations as were necessary for the very different climate with which we
+were now shortly to encounter. The fine weather we met with between the
+tropics had not been idly spent. The carpenters found sufficient employment
+in repairing the boats. The best bower-cable had been so much damaged by
+the foul ground in Karakakooa Bay, and whilst we were at anchor off
+Oneeheow, that we were obliged to cut forty fathoms from it; in converting
+of which, with other old cordage into spunyarn, and applying it to
+different uses, a considerable part of the people were kept constantly
+employed by the boatswain. The airing of sails and other stores, which,
+from the leakiness of the decks and sides of the ships, were perpetually
+subject to be wet, had now become a frequent as well as a laborious and
+troublesome part of our duty.
+
+Besides these cares, which had regard only to the ships themselves, there
+were others, which had for their object the preservation of the health of
+the crews, that furnished a constant occupation to a great number of our
+hands. The standing orders, established by Captain Cook, of airing the
+bedding, placing fires between deck, washing them with vinegar, and smoking
+them with gunpowder, were observed without any intermission. For some time
+past, even the operation of mending the sailors' old jackets had risen into
+a duty both of difficulty and importance. It may be necessary to inform
+those who are unacquainted with the disposition and habits of seamen, that
+they are so accustomed in ships of war to be directed in the care of
+themselves by their officers, that they lose the very idea of foresight,
+and contract the thoughtlessness of infants. I am sure, that if our people
+had been left to their own discretion alone, we should have had the whole
+crew naked, before the voyage had been half finished. It was natural to
+expect, that their experience, during our voyage to the north last year,
+would have made them sensible of the necessity of paying some attention to
+these matters; but if such reflections ever occurred to them, their
+impression was so transitory, that upon our return to the tropical
+climates, their fur-jackets, and the rest of their cold country clothes,
+were kicked about the decks as things of no value; though it was generally
+known in both ships, that we were to make another voyage toward the Pole.
+They were of course picked up by the officers; and being put into casks,
+restored about this time to the owners.
+
+In the afternoon we observed some of the sheathing floating by the ship;
+and on examination found that twelve or fourteen feet had been washed off
+from under the larboard bow, where we supposed the leak to have been, which
+ever since our leaving Sandwich Islands, had kept the people almost
+constantly at the pumps, making twelve inches water an hour. This day we
+saw a number of small crabs, of a pale blue colour; and had again, in
+company, a few albatrosses and sheerwaters. The thermometer in the night-
+time sunk eleven degrees; and although it remained as high as 59 deg., yet we
+suffered much from the cold, our feelings being as yet by no means
+reconciled to that degree of temperature.
+
+The wind continued blowing fresh from the N. till the 8th in the morning,
+when it became more moderate, with fair weather, and gradually changed its
+direction to the E., and afterward to the S.
+
+On the 9th, at noon, our latitude was 32 deg. 16', our longitude 166 deg. 40', and
+the variation 8 deg. 30' E. And on the 10th, having crossed the track of the
+Spanish galleons from the Manillas to Acapulco, we expected to have fallen
+in with the island of Rica de Plata, which, according to De Lisle's chart,
+in which the route of those ships is laid down, ought to have been in
+sight; its latitude, as there given, being 33 deg. 30' N., and its longitude
+166 deg. E. Notwithstanding we were so far advanced to the northward, we saw
+this day a tropic-bird, and also several other kinds of sea-birds, such as
+puffins, sea-parrots, sheerwaters, and albatrosses.
+
+On the 11th, at noon, we were in latitude 35 deg. 30', longitude 165 deg. 45'; and
+during the course of the day, had sea-birds as before, and passed several
+bunches of sea-weed. About the same time, the Discovery passed a log of
+wood; but no other signs of land were seen.
+
+The next day the wind came gradually round to the east, and increased to so
+strong a gale, as obliged us to strike our top-gallant yards, and brought
+us under the lower sails, and the main top-sail close-reefed. Unfortunately
+we were upon that tack, which was the most disadvantageous for our leak.
+But as we had always been able to keep it under with the hand-pumps, it
+gave us no great uneasiness till the 13th, about six in the afternoon, when
+we were greatly alarmed by a sudden inundation, that deluged the whole
+space between decks. The water, which had lodged in the coal-hole, not
+finding a sufficient vent into the well, had forced up the platforms over
+it, and in a moment set every thing afloat. Our situation was indeed
+exceedingly distressing; nor did we immediately see any means of relieving
+ourselves. A pump, through the upper decks into the coal-hole, could answer
+no end, as it would very soon have been choaked up by the small coals; and
+to bale the water out with buckets was become impracticable, from the
+number of bulky materials that were washed out of the gunner's store-room
+into it, and which, by the ship's motion, were tossed violently from side
+to side. No other method was therefore left, but to cut a hole through the
+bulk-head (or partition) that separated the coal-hole from the fore-hold,
+and by that means to make a passage for the body of water into the well.
+However, before that could be done, it was necessary to get the casks of
+dry provisions out of the forehold, which kept us employed the greatest
+part of the night; so that the carpenters could not get at the partition
+till the next morning. As soon as the passage was made, the greatest part
+of the water emptied itself into the well, and enabled us to get out the
+rest with buckets. But the leak was now so much increased, that we were
+obliged to keep one half of the people constantly pumping and baling, till
+the noon of the 15th. Our men bore with great cheerfulness this excessive
+fatigue, which was much increased by their having no dry place to sleep in;
+and on this account we began to serve their full allowance of grog.
+
+The weather now becoming more moderate, and the swell less heavy, we were
+enabled to clear away the rest of the casks from the fore-hold, and to open
+a sufficient passage for the water to the pumps. This day we saw a greenish
+piece of drift-wood, and fancying the water coloured, we sounded, but got
+no bottom with a hundred and sixty fathoms of line. Our latitude at noon
+this day was 41 deg. 52', longitude 161 deg. 15', variation 6 deg. 30' E.; and the wind
+soon after veering to the northward, we altered our course three points to
+the west.
+
+On the 16th at noon, we were in the latitude of 42 deg. 12', and in the
+longitude of 160 deg. 5'; and as we were now approaching the place where a
+great extent of land is said to have been seen by De Gama, we were glad of
+the opportunity which the course we were steering gave, of contributing to
+remove the doubts, if any should be still entertained, respecting the
+falsehood of this pretended discovery. For it is to be observed, that no
+one has ever yet been able to find who John de Gama was, when he lived, or
+what year this pretended discovery was made.
+
+According to Mr Muller, the first account of it given to the public was in
+a chart published by Texeira, a Portuguese geographer, in 1649, who places
+it ten or twelve degrees to the north-east of Japan, between the latitudes
+of 44 deg. and 45 deg.; and announces it to be _land seen by John de Gama, the
+Indian, in a voyage from China to New Spain_. On what grounds the French
+geographers have since removed it five degrees to the eastward, does not
+appear; except we suppose it to have been done in order to make room for
+another discovery made by the Dutch, called _Company's Land_; of which we
+shall have occasion to speak hereafter.
+
+During the whole day the wind was exceedingly unsettled, being seldom
+steady to two or three points, and blowing in fresh gusts, which were
+succeeded by dead calms. These were not unpromising appearances; but after
+standing off and on the whole of this day, without seeing anything of the
+land, we again steered to the northward, not thinking it worth our while to
+lose time in search of an object, the opinion of whose existence had been
+already pretty generally exploded. Our people were employed the whole of
+the 16th, in getting their wet things dry, and in airing the ships below.
+
+We now began to feel very sharply the increasing inclemency of the northern
+climate. In the morning of the 18th, our latitude being 45 deg. 40', and our
+longitude 160 deg. 25', we had snow and sleet, accompanied with strong gales
+from the S.W. This circumstance will appear very remarkable, if we consider
+the season of the year, and the quarter from which the wind blew. On the
+19th, the thermometer in the day-time remained at the freezing point, and
+at four in the morning fell to 29 deg.. If the reader will take the trouble to
+compare the degree of heat, during the hot sultry weather we had at the
+beginning of this month, with the extreme cold which we now endured, he
+will conceive how severely so rapid a change must have been felt by us.
+
+In the gale of the 18th, we had split almost all the sails we had bent,
+which being our second best suit, we were now reduced to make use of our
+last and best set. To add to Captain Clerke's difficulties, the sea was in
+general so rough, and the ships so leaky, that the sail-makers had no place
+to repair the sails in, except his apartments, which in his declining state
+of health was a serious inconvenience to him.
+
+On the 20th at noon, being in latitude 49 deg. 45' N., and longitude 161 deg. 15'
+E., and eagerly expecting to fall in with the coast of Asia, the wind
+shifted suddenly to the north, and continued in the same quarter the
+following day. However, although it retarded our progress, yet the fair
+weather it brought was no small refreshment to us. In the forenoon of the
+21st we saw a whale and a land-bird; and in the afternoon the water looking
+muddy, we sounded, but got no ground with an hundred and forty fathoms of
+line. During the three preceding days, we saw large flocks of wild fowl, of
+a species resembling ducks. This is usually considered as a proof of the
+vicinity of land, but we had no other signs of it since the 16th, in which
+time we had run upwards of an hundred and fifty leagues.
+
+On the 22d the wind shifted to the N.E., attended with misty weather. The
+cold was exceedingly severe, and the ropes were so frozen that it was with
+difficulty we could force them through the blocks. At noon, the latitude,
+by account, was 51 deg. 38', longitude 160 deg. 7'; and on comparing our present
+position with that given to the southern parts of Kamtschatka in the
+Russian charts, Captain Clerke did not think it prudent to run on toward
+the land all night. We therefore tacked at ten, and having found, had
+ground agreeably to our conjectures, with seventy fathoms of line.
+
+On the 23d, at six in the morning, being in latitude 52 deg. 09', and longitude
+160 deg. 07', on the fog clearing away, the land appeared in mountains covered
+with snow; and extending from N. 3/4 E., to S.W.; a high conical rock,
+bearing S.W., 3/4 W., at three or four leagues distance. We had no sooner
+taken this imperfect view, than we were again covered with a thick fog.
+Being now, according to our maps, only eight leagues from the entrance of
+Awatska Bay, as soon as the weather cleared up we stood in to take a nearer
+view of the land; and a more dismal and dreary prospect I never beheld. The
+coast appears strait and uniform, having no inlets or bays; the ground from
+the shore rises in hills of a moderate elevation, behind which are ranges
+of mountains, whose summits were lost in the clouds. The whole scene was
+entirely covered with snow, except the sides of some of the cliffs which
+rose too abruptly from the sea for the snow to lie upon them.
+
+The wind continued blowing very strong from the N.E., with thick hazy
+weather and sleet, from the 24th to the 28th. During the whole time, the
+thermometer was never higher than 30 1/2 deg.. The ship appeared to be a
+complete mass of ice; the shrowds were so incrusted with it, as to measure
+in circumference more than double their usual size; and, in short, the
+experience of the oldest seaman among us had never met with any thing like
+the continued showers of sleet, and the extreme cold which we now
+encountered. Indeed, the severity of the weather, added to the great
+difficulty of working the ships, and the labour of keeping the pumps
+constantly going, rendered the service too hard for many of the crew, some
+of whom were frostbitten, and others laid up with bad colds. We continued
+all this time standing four hours on each tack, having generally soundings
+of sixty fathoms, when about three leagues from the land, but none at twice
+that distance. On the 25th we had a transient view of the entrance of
+Awatska Bay; but, in the present state of the weather, we were afraid of
+venturing into it. Upon our standing off again we lost sight of the
+Discovery; but, as we were now so near the place of rendezvous, this gave
+us no great uneasiness.
+
+On the 28th in the morning, the weather at last cleared, and the wind fell
+to a light breeze from the same quarter as before. We had a fine warm day;
+and, as we now began to expect a thaw, the men were employed in breaking
+the ice from off the rigging, masts, and sails, in order to prevent its
+falling on our heads. At noon, being in the latitude of 52 deg. 44', and the
+longitude of 159 deg., the entrance of Awatska Bay bore N.W., distant three or
+four leagues; and, about three in the afternoon, a fair wind sprung up from
+the southward, with which we stood in, having regular soundings, from
+twenty-two to seven fathoms.
+
+The mouth of the bay opens in a N.N.W. direction. The land, on the south
+side, is of a moderate height; to the northward it rises into a bluff head,
+which is the highest part of the coast. In the channel between them, near
+the N.E. side, lie three remarkable rocks; and farther in, near the
+opposite coast, a single detached rock of a considerable size. On the north
+head there is a look-out house, which, when the Russians expect any of
+their ships, upon the coast, is used as a light-house. There was a flag-
+staff on it, but we saw no sign of any person being there.
+
+Having passed the mouth of the bay, which is about four miles long, we
+opened a large circular bason of twenty-five miles in circumference; and,
+at half past four, came to an anchor in six fathoms water, being afraid of
+running foul on a shoal, or some sunk rocks, which are said by Muller[13]
+to lie in the channel of the harbour of St Peter and St Paul. The middle of
+the bay was full of loose ice, drifting with the tide; but the shores were
+still entirely blocked up with it. Great flocks of wild-fowl were seen of
+various species; likewise ravens, eagles, and large flights of Greenland
+pigeons. We examined every corner of the bay with our glasses, in search of
+the town of St Peter and St Paul; which, according to the accounts given us
+at Oonalashka, we had conceived to be a place of some strength and
+consideration. At length we discovered on a narrow point of land to the
+N.N.E., a few miserable log-houses, and some conical huts, raised on poles,
+amounting in all to about thirty; which, from their situation,
+notwithstanding all the respect we wished to entertain for a Russian
+_ostrog_, we were under the necessity of concluding to be Petropaulowska.
+However, in justice to the generous and hospitable treatment we found here,
+I shall beg leave to anticipate the reader's curiosity, by assuring him
+that our disappointment proved to be more of a laughable than a serious
+nature. For, in this wretched extremity of the earth, situated beyond every
+thing that we conceived to be most barbarous and inhospitable, and, as it
+were, out of the very reach of civilization, barricadoed with ice, and
+covered with summer snow, in a poor miserable port, far inferior to the
+meanest of our fishing towns, we met with feelings of humanity, joined to a
+greatness of mind, and elevation of sentiment, which would have done honour
+to any nation or climate.
+
+During the night much ice drifted by us with the tide, and at day-light I
+was sent with the boats to examine the bay, and deliver the letters we had
+brought from Oonalashka to the Russian commander. We directed our course
+toward the village I have just mentioned, and having proceeded as far as we
+were able with the boats, we got upon the ice, which, extended near half a
+mile from the shore. Mr Webber, and two of the seamen, accompanied me,
+whilst the master took the pinnace and cutter to finish the survey, leaving
+the jolly-boat behind to carry us back.
+
+I believe the inhabitants had not yet seen either the ship or the boats;
+for even after we had got on the ice, we could not perceive any signs of a
+living creature in the town. By the time we had advanced a little way on
+the ice, we observed a few men hurrying backward and forward, and presently
+after a sledge drawn by dogs, with one of the inhabitants in it, came down
+to the sea-side, opposite to us. Whilst we were gazing at this unusual
+sight, and admiring the great civility of this stranger, which we imagined
+had brought him to our assistance, the man, after viewing us for some time
+very attentively, turned short round, and went off with great speed toward
+the _ostrog_. We were not less chagrined than disappointed at his abrupt
+departure, as we began to find our journey over the ice attended not only
+with great difficulty, but even with danger. We sunk at every step almost
+knee-deep in the snow, and though we found tolerable footing at the bottom,
+yet the weak parts of the ice not being discoverable, we were constantly
+exposed to the risk of breaking through it. This accident at last actually
+happened to myself; for, stepping on quickly over a suspicious spot, in
+order to press with less weight upon it, I came upon a second, before I
+could stop myself, which broke under me, and in I fell. Luckily I rose
+clear of the ice, and a man that was a little way behind with a boat-hook,
+throwing it to me, I laid it across some loose pieces near me, and by that
+means was enabled to get upon firm ice again.
+
+As we approached the shore, we found the ice, contrary to our expectations,
+more broken than it had been before. We were, however, again comforted by
+the sight of another sledge coming toward us; but instead of proceeding to
+our relief, the driver stopt short, and began to call out to us. I
+immediately held up to him Ismyloff's letters; upon which he turned about,
+and set off back again full speed; followed, I believe, not with the
+prayers of any of our party. Being at a great loss what conclusions to draw
+from this unaccountable behaviour, we continued our march toward the
+_ostrog_, with great circumspection, and when we had arrived within a
+quarter of a mile of it, we perceived a body of armed men marching toward
+us. That we might give them as little alarm, and have as peaceable an
+appearance as possible, the two men who had boat-hooks in their hands, were
+ordered into the rear, and Mr Webber and myself marched in front. The
+Russian party, consisting of about thirty soldiers, was headed by a decent-
+looking person with a cane in his hand. He halted within a few yards of us,
+and drew up his men in a martial and good order. I delivered to him
+Ismyloff's letters, and endeavoured to make him understand, as well as I
+could (though I afterward found in vain), that we were English, and had
+brought the papers from Oonalashka. After having examined us attentively,
+he began to conduct us toward the village, in great silence and solemnity,
+frequently halting his men, to form them in different manners, and make
+them perform several parts of their manual exercise, probably with a view
+to shew us, that if we had the temerity to offer any violence, we should
+have to deal with men who were not ignorant of their business.
+
+Though I was all this time in my wet clothes, shivering with cold, and
+sufficiently inclined to the most unconditional submission, without having
+my fears violently alarmed, yet it was impossible not to be diverted with
+this military parade, notwithstanding it was attended with the most
+unseasonable delay. At length we arrived at the house of the commanding-
+officer of the party, into which we were ushered; and after no small stir
+in giving orders, and disposing of the military without doors, our host
+made his appearance, accompanied by another person, whom we understood to
+be the secretary of the port. One of Ismyloff's letters was now opened, and
+the other sent off by a special messenger to Bolcheretsk, a town on the
+west side of the peninsula of Kamtschatka, where the Russian commander of
+this province usually resides.
+
+It is very remarkable, that they had not seen the ship the preceding day,
+when we came to anchor in the bay, nor indeed this morning, till our boats
+were pretty near the ice. The panic with which the discovery had struck
+them, we found had been very considerable. The garrison was immediately put
+under arms. Two small field-pieces were placed at the entrance of the
+commander's house, and pointed toward our boats; and shot, powder, and
+lighted matches, were all ready at hand.
+
+The officer, in whose house we were at present entertained, was a serjeant,
+and the commander of the _ostrog_. Nothing could exceed the kindness and
+hospitality of his behaviour, after he recovered from the alarm occasioned
+by our arrival. We found the house insufferably hot, but exceedingly neat
+and clean. After I had changed my clothes, which the serjeant's civility
+enabled me to do, by furnishing me with a complete suit of his own, we were
+invited to sit down to dinner, which I have no doubt was the best he could
+procure; and, considering the shortness of time he had to provide it, was
+managed with some ingenuity. As there was not time to prepare soup and
+_bouilli_, we had in their stead some cold beef, sliced, with hot water
+poured over it. We had next a large bird roasted, of a species with which I
+was unacquainted, but of a very excellent taste. After having eaten a part
+of this, it was taken off, and we were served with fish dressed two
+different ways; and soon after the bird again made its appearance, in
+savory and sweet _pates_. Our liquor, of which I shall have to speak
+hereafter, was of the kind called by the Russians _quass_, and was much the
+worst part of the entertainment. The serjeant's wife brought in several of
+the dishes herself, and was not permitted to sit down at table. Having
+finished our repast, during which it is hardly necessary to remark, that
+our conversation was confined to a few bows, and other signs of mutual
+respect, we endeavoured to open to our host the cause and objects of our
+visit to this port. As Ismyloff had probably written to them on the same
+subject, in the letters we had before delivered, he appeared very readily
+to conceive our meaning; but as there was unfortunately no one in the place
+that could talk any other language except Russian or Kamtschadale, we found
+the utmost difficulty in comprehending the information he meant to convey
+to us. After some time spent in these endeavours to understand one another,
+we conceived the sum of the intelligence we had procured to be, that though
+no supply, either of provisions or naval stores, was to be had at this
+place, yet that these articles were in great plenty at Bolcheretsk; that
+the commander would most probably be very willing to give us what we
+wanted; but that till the serjeant had received orders from him, neither he
+nor his people, nor the natives, could even venture to go on board the
+ship.
+
+It was now time for us to take our leave; and, as my clothes were still too
+wet to put on, I was obliged to have recourse again to the serjeant's
+benevolence, for his leave to carry those I had borrowed of him on board.
+This request was complied with very cheerfully; and a sledge, drawn by five
+dogs, with a driver, was immediately provided for each of our party. The
+sailors were highly delighted with this mode of conveyance; and what
+diverted them still more was, that the two boat-hooks had also a sledge
+appropriated to themselves. These sledges are so light, and their
+construction so well adapted to the purposes for which they are intended,
+that they went with great expedition, and perfect safety, over the ice,
+which it would have been, impossible for us, with all our caution, to have
+passed on foot.
+
+On our return, we found the boats towing the ship toward the village; and
+at seven we got close to the ice, and moored with the small bower to the
+N.E., and best bower to the S.W.; the entrance of the bay bearing S. by E.,
+and S. 3/4 E.; and the _ostrog_ N., 1/4 E., distant one mile and a half.
+The next morning the casks and cables were got upon the quarter-deck, in
+order to lighten the ship forward; and the carpenters were set to work to
+stop the leak, which had given us so much trouble daring our last run. It
+was found to have been occasioned by the falling of some sheathing from the
+larboard-bow, and the oakum between the planks having been washed out. The
+warm weather we had in the middle of the day, began to make the ice break
+away very fast, which, drifting with the tide, had almost filled up the
+entrance of the bay. Several of our gentlemen paid their visits to the
+serjeant, by whom they were received with great civility; and Captain
+Clerke sent him two bottles of rum, which he understood would be the most
+acceptable present he could make him, and received in return some fine
+fowls of the grouse kind, and twenty trouts. Our sportsmen met with but bad
+success; for though the bay swarmed with flocks of ducks of various kinds,
+and Greenland pigeons, yet they were so shy that they could not come within
+shot of them.
+
+In the morning of the 1st of May, seeing the Discovery standing into the
+bay, a boat was immediately sent to her assistance; and in the afternoon
+she moored close by us. They told us, that after the weather cleared up on
+the 28th, they found themselves to leeward of the bay; and that when they
+got abreast of it the following day, and saw the entrance choked up with
+ice, they stood off, after firing guns, concluding we could not be here;
+but finding afterward it was only loose drift ice, they had ventured in.
+The next day the weather was so very unsettled, attended with heavy showers
+of snow, that the carpenters were not able to proceed in their work. The
+thermometer stood at 28 deg. in the evening, and the frost was exceedingly
+severe in the night.
+
+The following morning, on our observing two sledges drive into the village,
+Captain Clerke sent me on shore, to enquire whether any message was arrived
+from the commander of Kamtschatka, which, according to the serjeant's
+account, might now be expected, in consequence of the intelligence that had
+been sent of our arrival. Bolcheretsk, by the usual route, is about one
+hundred and thirty-five English miles from Saint Peter and Saint Paul's.
+Our dispatches were sent off in a sledge drawn by dogs, on the 29th, about
+noon. And the answer arrived, as we afterward found, early this morning; so
+that they were only a little more than three days and a half in performing
+a journey of two hundred and seventy miles.
+
+The return of the commander's answer was, however, concealed from us for
+the present; and I was told, on my arrival at the serjeant's, that we
+should hear from him the next day. Whilst I was on shore, the boat which
+had brought me, together with another belonging to the Discovery, were set
+fast in the ice, which a southerly wind had driven from the other side of
+the bay. On seeing them entangled, the Discovery's launch had been sent to
+their assistance, but shared the same fate; and in a short time the ice had
+surrounded them near a quarter of a mile deep. This obliged us to stay on
+shore till evening, when, finding no prospect of getting the boats off,
+some of us went in sledges to the edge of the ice, and were taken off by
+boats sent from the ship, and the rest staid on shore all night.
+
+It continued to freeze hard during the night; but before morning, on the
+4th, a change of wind drifted away the floating ice, and set the boats at
+liberty, without their having sustained the smallest damage.
+
+About ten o'clock in the forenoon, we saw several sledges driving down to
+the edge of the ice, and sent a boat to conduct the persons who were in
+them on board. One of these was a Russian merchant, from Bolcheretsk, named
+Fedositch, and the other a German, called Port, who had brought a letter
+from Major Behm, the commander of Kamtschatka, to Captain Clerke. When they
+got to the edge of the ice, and saw distinctly the size of the ships, which
+lay within about two hundred yards from them, they appeared to be
+exceedingly alarmed; and, before they would venture to embark, desired two
+of our boat's crew might be left on shore as hostages for their safety. We
+afterward found, that Ismyloff, in his letter to the commander, had
+misrepresented us, for what reasons we could not conceive, as two small
+trading boats; and that the serjeant, who had only seen the ships at a
+distance, had not in his dispatches rectified the mistake.
+
+When they arrived on board, we still found, from their cautious and
+timorous behaviour, that they were under some unaccountable apprehensions;
+and an uncommon degree of satisfaction was visible in their countenances,
+on the German's finding a person amongst us with whom he could converse.
+This was Mr Webber, who spoke that language perfectly well; and at last,
+though with some difficulty, convinced them that we were Englishmen and
+friends. Mr Port, being introduced to Captain Clerke, delivered to him the
+commander's letter, which was written in German, and was merely
+complimental, inviting him and his officers to Bolcheretsk, to which place
+the people who brought it were to conduct us. Mr Port, at the same time
+acquainted him, that the major had conceived a very wrong idea of the size
+of the ships, and of the service we were engaged in; Ismyloff, in his
+letter, having represented us as two small English packet boats, and
+cautioned him to be on his guard; insinuating, that he suspected us to be
+no better than pirates. In consequence of this letter, he said there had
+been various conjectures formed about us at Bolcheretsk; that the major
+thought it most probable we were on a trading scheme, and for that reason
+had sent down a merchant to us; but that the officer, who was second in
+command, was of opinion we were French, and come with some hostile
+intention, and was for taking measures accordingly. It had required, he
+added, all the major's authority to keep the inhabitants from leaving the
+town, and retiring up into the country, to so extraordinary a pitch had
+their fears risen from their persuasion that we were French.
+
+Their extreme apprehensions of that nation were principally occasioned by
+some circumstances attending an insurrection that had happened at
+Bolcheretsk, a few years before, in which the commander had lost his life.
+We were informed, that an exiled Polish officer, named Beniowski, taking
+advantage of the confusion into which the town was thrown, had seized upon
+a galliot, then lying at the entrance of the Bolchoireka, and had forced on
+board a number of Russian sailors, sufficient to navigate her; that he had
+put on shore a part of the crew at the Kourile Islands, and among the rest,
+Ismyloff, who, as the reader will recollect, had puzzled us exceedingly at
+Oonalashka, with the history of this transaction; though, for want of
+understanding his language, we could not often make out all the
+circumstances attending it; that he passed in sight of Japan; made Luconia;
+and was there directed how to steer to Canton; that arriving there, he had
+applied to the French, and had got a passage in one of their India ships to
+France; and that most of the Russians had likewise returned to Europe in
+French ships, and had afterward found their way to Petersburg. We met with
+three of Beniowski's crew in the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul; and
+from them we learnt the circumstances of the above story.
+
+On our arrival at Canton, we received a farther corroboration, of the facts
+from the gentlemen of the English factory; who told us, that a person had
+arrived there in a Russian galliot, who said he came from Kamtschatka, and
+that he had been furnished by the French factory with a passage to
+Europe.[14]
+
+We could not help being much diverted with the fears and apprehensions of
+these good people, and particularly with the account Mr Port gave us of the
+serjeant's wary proceedings the day before. On seeing me come on shore, in
+company with some other gentlemen, he had made him and the merchant, who
+arrived in the sledges we had seen come in the morning, hide themselves in
+his kitchen, and listen to our conversation with one another, in hopes that
+by this means they might discover whether we were really English or not.
+
+As we concluded, from the commission and dress of Mr Port, that he might
+probably he the commander's secretary, he was received as such, and
+invited, with his companion, the merchant, to dine with Captain Clerke; and
+though we soon began to suspect, from the behaviour of the latter toward
+him, that he was only a common servant, yet this being no time to sacrifice
+our little comforts to our pride, we prevented an explanation, by not
+suffering the question to be put to him; and, in return for the
+satisfaction we reaped from his abilities as a linguist, we continued to
+let him live on a footing of equality with us.
+
+
+[12] It is highly probable that there are several small islands or rocks
+    in the vicinity of this track, the discovery of which would at least
+    benefit navigation. Thus we are told by Captain Krusenstern, an
+    authority to which we are always glad to appeal, that he saw in
+    latitude 17 deg., and longitude 169 deg. 30', an extraordinary number of
+    birds, that hovered round his ship in flocks of upwards of a hundred,
+    from which he inferred his having passed near some island, which
+    served as a resting place for them. In confirmation of this opinion,
+    he informs us, that La Perouse in 1786, and an English merchantman in
+    1796, discovered west of the Sandwich Islands, the first in the
+    parallel of 22 deg., and the latter in that of 18 deg., two small rocky
+    islands both extremely dangerous; and that the Nero in her passage
+    from America to China in 1805, found near this place a very dangerous
+    sand island, viz. in 173 deg. 35' 45" W., and 26 deg. 2' 48" N. It is perhaps
+    to be regretted, that Krusenstern, who, a few days after the date of
+    the remark now quoted, crossed Captain Clerke's course, should have so
+    resolutely endeavoured, as he says he did, and that too with tolerable
+    success, not to approach the track of that officer nearer than by a
+    hundred or a hundred and twenty miles. It is evident, that, within a
+    smaller distance, he might have made some useful discovery, without,
+    in any measure, endangering his own reputation, as a mere follower in
+    the footsteps of others. Here it may be added, that his course was
+    more northerly than Clerke's, and that he did not experience any of
+    those swells so soon complained of by Captain King.--E.
+
+[13] Voyages made by the Russians from Asia to America, &c., translated
+    from the German, by T. Jeffereys, p. 37.
+
+[14] It hath since appeared, from the Account of Kerguelen's Voyage, that
+    this extraordinary person, who had entered into the French service,
+    was commander of a new settlement at Madagascar, when Kerguelen
+    touched there in 1774.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION II.
+
+
+Scarcity of Provisions and Stores at the Harbour of Saint Peter and Saint
+Paul.--A Party set out to visit the Commander at Bolcheretsk.--Passage up
+the River Awatska.--Account of their Reception by the Toion of Karatchin.--
+Description of a Kamtschadale Dress.--Journey on Sledges.--Description of
+this Mode of Travelling.--Arrival at Natcheekin.--Account of Hot
+Springs.--Embark on the Bolchoireka.--Reception at the Capital.--Generous
+and hospitable Conduct of the Commander and the Garrison.--Description of
+Bolcheretsk.--Presents from the Commander.--Russian and Kamtschadale
+Dancing.--Affecting Departure from Bolcheretsk.--Return to Saint Peter and
+Saint Paul's, accompanied by Major Behm, who visits the Ships.--Generosity
+of the Sailors.--Dispatches sent by Major Behm to Petersburg.--His
+Departure, and Character.
+
+
+Being now enabled to converse with the Russians, by the aid of our
+interpreter, with tolerable facility, our first enquiries were directed to
+the means of procuring a supply of fresh provisions and naval stores; from
+the want of which latter article, in particular, we had been for some time
+in great distress. On enquiry, it appeared, that the whole stock of live
+cattle, which the country about the bay could furnish, amounted only to two
+heifers; and these the serjeant very readily promised to procure us. Our
+applications were next made to the merchant, but we found the terms upon
+which he offered to serve us so exorbitant, that Captain Clerke thought it
+necessary to send an officer to visit the commander at Bolcheretsk, and to
+enquire into the price of stores at that place. As soon as this
+determination was communicated to Mr Port, he dispatched an express to the
+commander to inform him of our intentions, and at the same time to clear us
+from the suspicions that were entertained with respect to the designation
+and purposes of our voyage.
+
+Captain Clerke having thought proper to fix on me for this service, I
+received orders, together with Mr Webber, who was to accompany me as
+interpreter, to be ready to set out the next day. It proved, however, too
+stormy, as did also the 6th, for beginning a journey through so wild and
+desolate a country; but on the 7th, the weather appearing more favourable,
+we set out early in the morning in the ship's boats, with a view to reach
+the entrance of the Awatska at high water, on account of the shoals with
+which the mouth of that river abounds; here the country boats were to meet
+us, and carry us up the stream.
+
+Captain Gore was now added to our party, and we were attended by Messrs
+Port and Fedositsch, with two cossacks, and were provided by our conductors
+with warm furred clothing; a precaution which we soon found very necessary,
+as it began to snow briskly just after we set out. At eight o'clock, being
+stopped by shoal water, about a mile from the mouth of the river, some
+small canoes, belonging to the Kamtschadales, took up us and our baggage,
+and carried us over a spit of sand, which is thrown up by the rapidity of
+the river, and which they told us was continually shifting. When we had
+crossed this shoal, the water again deepened, and here we found a
+commodious boat, built and shaped like a Norway yawl, ready to convey us up
+the river, together with canoes for our baggage.
+
+The mouth of the Awatska is about a quarter of a mile broad, and, as we
+advanced, it narrowed very gradually. After we had proceeded a few miles,
+we passed several branches, which, we were told, emptied themselves into
+other parts of the bay; and that some of those on the left hand flowed into
+the Paratounca river. Its general direction from the bay, for the first ten
+miles, is to the north, after which it turns to the westward; this bend
+excepted, it preserves for the most part a straight course; and the country
+through which it flows, to the distance of near thirty miles from the sea,
+is low and flat, and subject to frequent inundations. We were pushed
+forward by six men, with long poles, three at each end of the boat, two of
+whom were cossacks, the others Kamtschadales, and advanced against a strong
+stream, at the rate, as well as I could judge, of about three miles an
+hour. Our Kamtshadales bore this severe labour with great stoutness for ten
+hours, during which we stopped only once, and that for a short time, whilst
+they took some little refreshment. As we had been told, at our first
+setting out in the morning, that we should easily reach an _ostrog_, called
+Karatchin, the same night, we were much disappointed to find ourselves, at
+sunset, fifteen miles from that place. This we attributed to the delay
+occasioned in passing the shoals we had met with, both at the entrance of
+the river, and in several other places as we proceeded up it; for our boat
+being the first that had passed up the river, the guides were not
+acquainted with the situation of the shifting sand-banks, and unfortunately
+the snow not having yet begun to melt, the shallowness of the river was at
+its extreme.
+
+The fatigue our men had already undergone, and the difficulty of navigating
+the river, which would have been much increased by the darkness of the
+night, obliged us to give up all thoughts of continuing our journey that
+evening. Having therefore found a place tolerably sheltered, and cleared it
+of the snow, we erected a small _marquee_, which we had brought with us;
+and, by the assistance of a brisk fire, and some good punch, passed the
+night not very unpleasantly. The only inconvenience we laboured under was,
+the being obliged to make the fire at some distance from us. For, although
+the ground was to all appearance dry enough before, yet when the fire was
+alighted, it soon thawed all the parts round it into an absolute puddle. We
+admired much the alertness and expedition with which the Kamtschadales
+erected our _marquee_, and cooked our provisions; but what was most
+unexpected, we found they had brought with them their tea-kettles;
+considering it as the greatest of hardships not to drink tea two or three
+times a day.
+
+We set out as soon as it was light in the morning, and had not advanced
+far, before we were met by the _Toion_, or chief of Karatchin, who had been
+apprised of our coming, and had provided canoes that were lighter, and
+better contrived for navigating the higher parts of the river. A commodious
+vessel, consisting of two canoes, lashed close together with cross spars,
+lined with bear-skins, and furnished with fur-cloaks, was also provided for
+us. We now went on very rapidly, the _Toion's_ people being both stout and
+fresh, and remarkable for their expertness in this business. At ten we got
+to the _ostrog_, the seat of his command, where we were received at the
+water-side by the Kamtschadale men and women, and some Russian servants
+belonging to Fedositsch, who were employed in making canoes. They were all
+dressed out in their best clothes. Those of the women were pretty and gay,
+consisting of a full loose robe of white nankeen, gathered close round the
+neck, and fastened with a collar of coloured silk. Over this they wore a
+short jacket without sleeves, made of different-coloured nankeens, and
+petticoats of a slight Chinese silk. Their shirts, which had sleeves down
+to the wrist, were also of silk; and coloured silk handkerchiefs were bound
+round their heads, concealing entirely the hair of the married women,
+whilst those who were unmarried brought the handkerchief under the hair,
+and suffered it to flow loose behind.
+
+This _ostrog_ was pleasantly situated by the side of the river, and
+consisted of three log-houses, three _jourts_, or houses made under ground,
+and nineteen _balagans_, or summer habitations. We were conducted to the
+tent of the _Toion_, who was a plain decent man, born of a Russian woman,
+by a Kamtschadale father. His house, like all the rest in this country, was
+divided into two apartments. A long narrow table, with a bench round it,
+was all the furniture we saw in the outer; and the household stuff of the
+inner, which was the kitchen, was not less simple and scanty. But the kind
+attention of our host, and the hearty welcome we received, more than
+compensated for the poverty of his lodgings.
+
+His wife proved an excellent cook, and served us with fish and game of
+different sorts, and various kinds of heath-berries, that had been kept
+since the last year. Whilst we were at dinner in this miserable hut, the
+guests of a people, with whose existence we had before been scarce
+acquainted, and at the extremity of the habitable globe, a solitary, half-
+worn pewter spoon, whose shape was familiar to us, attracted our attention;
+and, on examination, we found it stamped on the back with the word
+_London_. I cannot pass over this circumstance in silence, out of gratitude
+for the many pleasant thoughts, the anxious hopes, and tender remembrances
+it excited in us. Those who have experienced the effects that long absence
+and extreme distance from their native county produce on the mind, will
+readily conceive the pleasure such trifling incidents can give. To the
+philosopher and politician they may perhaps suggest reflections of a
+different nature.[15]
+
+We were now to quit the river, and perform the next part of our journey on
+sledges; but the thaw had been too powerful in the day-time to allow us to
+set out till the cold of the evening had again made the surface of the snow
+hard and firm. This gave us an opportunity of walking about the village,
+which was the only place we had yet seen free from snow since we landed in
+this country. It stood upon a well-wooded flat, about a mile and a half in
+circumference. The leaves were just budding, and the verdure of the whole
+scene was strongly contrasted with the sides of the surrounding hills,
+which were still covered with snow. As the soil appeared to me very capable
+of producing all the common sorts of garden vegetables, I was greatly
+surprised not to find the smallest spot any where cultivated. If to this we
+add, that none of the inhabitants were possessed of cattle of any sort,
+nothing can be well conceived more wretched than their situation must be
+during the winter months.[16] They were at this time removing from their
+_jourts_ into their _balagans_, which afforded us an opportunity of
+examining both these sorts of habitations; and they will be hereafter more
+particularly described. The people invited us into their houses with great
+good humour; a general air of cheerfulness and content was every where
+visible, to which the approaching change of season might probably not a
+little contribute.
+
+On our return to the _Toion's_, we found supper prepared for us, which
+differed in nothing from our former repast; and concluded with our treating
+the _Toion_ and his wife with some of the spirits we had brought with us,
+made into punch. Captain Gore, who had great generosity on all occasions,
+having afterward made them some valuable presents, they retired to the
+kitchen, leaving us in possession of the outward room, where, spreading our
+bear-skins on the benches, we were glad to get a little repose, having
+settled with our conductors to resume our journey as soon as the ground
+should be judged fit for travelling.
+
+About nine o'clock the same evening we were awakened by the melancholy
+howlings of the dogs, which continued all the time our baggage was lashing
+upon the sledges; but as soon as they were yoked, and we were all prepared
+to set out, this changed into a light cheerful yelping, which, entirely
+ceased the instant they marched off. But before we set out, the reader may
+expect to be made more particularly acquainted with this curious mode of
+travelling.
+
+The body of the sledge is about four feet and a half long, and a foot wide,
+made in the form of a crescent, of light tough wood, strongly bound
+together with wicker-work; which, in those belonging to the better sort of
+people, is elegantly stained of a red and blue colour, and the seat covered
+with bear-skins, or other furs. It is supported by four legs, about two
+feet high, which rest on two long flat pieces of wood, five or six inches
+broad, extending a foot at each end beyond the body of the sledge. These
+are turned up before in the manner of a skate, and shod with the bone of
+some sea-animal. The fore-part of the carriage is ornamented with thongs of
+leather and tassels of coloured cloth; and from the cross-bar, to which the
+harness is joined, are hung links of iron, or small bells, the jingling of
+which they conceive to be encouraging to the dogs. They are seldom used to
+carry more than one person at a time, who sits aside, resting his feet on
+the lower part of the sledge, and carrying his provisions and other
+necessaries, wrapped up in a bundle, behind him. The dogs are usually five
+in number, yoked two and two, with a leader. The reins, not being fastened
+to the head of the dogs, but to the collars, have little power over them,
+and are therefore generally hung upon the sledge, whilst the driver depends
+entirely on their obedience to his voice for the direction of them. With
+this view, the leader is always trained up with a particular degree of care
+and attention; some of them rising to a most extraordinary value on account
+of their docility and steadiness; insomuch, that for one of these, I am
+well assured, forty roubles (or ten pounds) was no unusual price. The
+driver is also provided with a crooked stick, which answers the purpose
+both of whip and reins; as, by striking it into the snow, he is enabled to
+moderate the speed of the dogs, or even to stop them entirely; and when
+they are lazy, or otherwise inattentive to his voice, he chastises them by
+throwing it at them. Upon these occasions their dexterity in picking it up
+again is very remarkable, and forms the principal difficulty of their art.
+But it is indeed not surprising that they should labour to be skilful in a
+practice upon which their safety so materially depends. For they say, that
+if the driver should happen to lose his stick, the dogs will instantly
+perceive it; and unless their leader be of the most sober and resolute
+kind, they will immediately run a-head full speed, and never stop till they
+are quite spent. But as that will not be the case soon, it generally
+happens that either the carriage is overturned, and dashed to pieces
+against the trees, or they hurry down some precipice, and are all buried in
+the snow. The accounts that were given us of the speed of these dogs, and
+of their extraordinary patience of hunger and fatigue, were scarcely
+credible, if they had not been supported by the best authority. We were
+indeed ourselves witnesses of the great expedition with which the
+messenger, who had been dispatched to Bolcheretsk with the news of our
+arrival, returned to the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, though the
+snow was at this time exceedingly soft. But I was informed, by the
+commander of Kamtschatka, that this journey was generally performed in two
+days and a half; and that he had once received an express from the latter
+place in twenty-three hours.
+
+The dogs are fed, during the winter, on the offals of dried and stinking
+fish; but are always deprived of this miserable food a day before they set
+out on a journey, and never suffered to eat before they reach the end of
+it. We were also told, that it was not unusual for them to continue thus
+fasting two entire days, in which time they would perform a journey of one
+hundred and twenty miles.[17] These dogs are in shape somewhat like the
+Pomeranian breed, but considerably larger.
+
+As we did not choose to trust to our own skill, we had each of us a man to
+drive and guide the sledge, which, from the state the roads were now in,
+proved a very laborious business. For, as the thaw had advanced very
+considerably in the vallies, through which our road lay, we were under the
+necessity of keeping along the sides of the hills; and this obliged our
+guides, who were provided with snow-shoes for that purpose, to support the
+sledges, on the lower side, with their shoulders, for several miles
+together. I had a very good-humoured cossack to attend me, who was,
+however, so very unskilful in his business, that we were overturned almost
+every minute, to the great entertainment of the rest of the company. Our
+party consisted in all of ten sledges. That in which Captain Gore was
+carried, was made of two lashed together, and abundantly provided with furs
+and bear-skins; it had ten dogs, yoked four a-breast; as had also some of
+those that were heavy laden with baggage.
+
+When we had proceeded about four miles it began to rain; which, added to
+the darkness of the night, threw us all into confusion. It was at last
+agreed, that we should remain where we were till day-light; and accordingly
+we came to anchor in the snow, (for I cannot better express the manner in
+which the sledges were secured,) and wrapping ourselves up in our furs,
+waited patiently for the morning. About three o'clock we were called on to
+set out, our guides being apprehensive, that if we waited longer we might
+be stopped by the thaw, and neither be able to proceed nor to return. After
+encountering many difficulties, which were principally occasioned by the
+bad condition of the road, at two in the afternoon we got safe to an
+_ostrog_, called Natcheekin, situated on the side of a small stream which
+falls into the Bolchoireka, a little way below the town. The distance
+between Karatchin and Natcheekin is thirty-eight wersts (or twenty-five
+miles;) and had the hard frost continued, we should not, by their account,
+have been more than four hours in performing it; but the snow was so soft,
+that the dogs, almost at every step, sunk up to their bellies; and I was
+indeed much surprised at their being at all able to overcome the
+difficulties of so fatiguing a journey.
+
+Natcheekin is a very inconsiderable _ostrog_, having only one log-house,
+the residence of the _Toion_; five _balagans_, and one _jourt_. We were
+received here with the same formalities, and in the same hospitable manner,
+as at Karatchin; and in the afternoon we went to visit a remarkable hot-
+spring, which is near this village. We saw at some distance the steam
+rising from it as from a boiling cauldron; and as we approached, perceived
+the air had a strong sulphureous smell. The main spring forms a bason of
+about three feet in diameter; besides which there are a number of lesser
+springs, of the same degree of heat, in the adjacent ground; so that the
+whole spot, to the extent of near an acre, was so hot, that we could not
+stand two minutes in the same place. The water flowing from these springs
+is collected in a small bathing pond, and afterwards forms a little
+rivulet, which, at the distance of about an hundred and fifty yards, falls
+into the river. The bath, they told us, had wrought great cures in several
+disorders, such as rheumatisms, swelled and contracted joints, and
+scorbutic ulcers. In the bathing place the thermometer stood at 100 deg., or
+blood heat; but in the spring, after being immersed two minutes, it was 1 deg.
+above boiling spirits. The thermometer in the air, at this time was 34 deg.; in
+the river 40 deg.; and in the _Toion's_ house 64 deg.. The ground where these
+springs break out is on a gentle ascent; behind which there is a green hill
+of a moderate size. I am sorry I was not sufficiently skilled in botany to
+examine the plants, which seemed to thrive here with great luxuriance; the
+wild garlic, indeed, forced itself on our notice, and was at this time
+springing up very vigorously.
+
+The next morning we embarked on the Bolchoireka in canoes; and having the
+stream with us, expected to be at our journey's end the day following. The
+town of Bolcheretsk is about eighty miles from Natcheekin; and we were
+informed, that, in the summer season, when the river has been full and
+rapid, from the melting of snow on the mountains, the canoes had often gone
+down in a single day; but that, in its present state, we should probably be
+much longer, as the ice had broken up only three days before we arrived;
+and that ours would be the first boat that had attempted to pass. This
+intelligence proved but too true. We found ourselves greatly impeded by the
+shallows; and though the stream in many places ran with great rapidity, yet
+in every half mile we had ripplings and shoals, over which we had to haul
+the boats.[18] The country on each side was very romantic, but unvaried;
+the river running between mountains of the most craggy and barren aspect,
+where there was nothing to diversify the scene but now and then the sight
+of a bear, and the flights of wild fowl. So uninteresting a passage leaves
+me nothing farther to say, than that this, and the following night, we
+slept on the banks of the river, under our _marquee_, and suffered very
+much from the severity of the weather, and the snow, which still remained
+on the ground.
+
+At day-light, on the 12th, we found we had got clear of the mountains, and
+were entering a low extensive plain, covered with shrubby trees. About nine
+in the forenoon, we arrived at an _ostrog_, called Opatchin, which is
+computed to be fifty miles from Natcheekin, and is nearly of the same size
+as Karatchin. We found here a serjeant, with four Russian soldiers, who had
+been two days waiting for our arrival, and who immediately dispatched a
+light boat to Bolcheretsk, with intelligence of our approach. We were now
+put into the trammels of formality; a canoe, furnished with skins and furs,
+and equipped in a magnificent manner, was prepared for our reception, in
+which we were accommodated much at our ease, but to the exclusion of the
+rest of our fellow-travellers. It was with much regret we found ourselves
+obliged to separate from our old companion Monsieur Port, whom we had
+observed to grow every day more shy and distant as we drew nearer the end
+of our journey. Indeed, he had himself told us, before we set out, that we
+paid him a respect he had no title to; but as we had found him a very
+modest and discreet man, we had insisted on his living with us during the
+whole of our journey. The remainder of our passage was performed with great
+facility and expedition, the river growing more rapid as we descended, and
+less obstructed by shoals.
+
+As we approached the capital, we were sorry to observe, from an appearance
+of much stir and bustle, that we were to be received in form. Decent
+clothes had been for some time a scarce commodity amongst us; and our
+travelling dresses were made up of a burlesque mixture of European, Indian,
+and Kamtschadale fashions. We therefore thought it would be too ridiculous
+to make a parade in this trim through the metropolis of Kamtschatka; and,
+as we saw a crowd collected on the banks of the river, and were told the
+commander would be at the water-side to receive us, we stopped short, at a
+soldier's house, about a quarter of a mile from the town, from whence we
+sent Port, with a message to his excellency, acquainting him, that the
+moment we had put off our travelling dresses, we would pay our respects to
+him at his own house; and to beg he would not think of waiting to conduct
+us. Finding, however, that he persisted in his intentions of paying us this
+compliment, we lost no farther time in attiring ourselves, but made all the
+haste in our power to join him at the entrance of the town. I observed my
+companions to be as awkward as I felt myself in making our first
+salutations; bowing and scraping being marks of good breeding, that we had
+now, for two years and a half, been totally unaccustomed to. The manner in
+which we were received by the commander, was the most engaging that could
+be conceived, and increased my mortification at finding that he had almost
+entirely forgot the French language; so that the satisfaction of conversing
+with him was wholly confined to Mr Webber, who spoke the German, his native
+tongue.
+
+In company with Major Behm was Captain Shmaleff, the second in command, and
+another officer, with the whole body of the merchants of the place. They
+conducted us to the commander's house, where we were received by his lady
+with great civility, and found tea and other refreshments prepared for us.
+After the first compliments were over, Mr Webber was desired to acquaint
+the major with the object of our journey, with our want of naval stores,
+flour, and fresh provisions, and other necessaries for the ship's crews,
+and at the same time to assure him, that we were sensible, from what we had
+already seen of the condition of the country about Awatska Bay, we could
+not expect much assistance from him in that quarter; that the impossibility
+of sending heavy stores across the peninsula during the present season of
+the year, was but too apparent, from the difficulties we had met with in
+our journey; and that, long before any material change could take place, we
+should be under the necessity of proceeding on our voyage. We were here
+interrupted by the commander, who observed, that we did not yet know what
+they were capable of doing; that, at least, it was not his business to
+think of the difficulties of supplying our wants, but only to learn what
+were the articles we stood in need of, and the longest time we could allow
+him for procuring them. After expressing our sense of his obliging
+disposition, we gave him a list of our naval stores, the number of cattle,
+and the quantity of flour we were directed to purchase, and told him that
+we purposed recommencing our voyage about the 5th of June.
+
+Our conversation afterward turned upon different subjects; and it will
+naturally be supposed that our enquiries were principally directed to the
+obtaining some information respecting our own country. Having now been
+absent three years, we had flattered ourselves with the certainty of
+receiving intelligence from Major Behm, which could not fail of being
+interesting; and I cannot express the disappointment we felt, on finding
+that he had no news to communicate of a much later date than that of our
+departure from England.
+
+About seven o'clock the commander, conceiving we might be fatigued with our
+journey, and desirous of taking some repose, begged he might conduct us to
+our lodgings. It was in vain that we protested against a compliment which
+we had certainly no title to expect, but that of being strangers; a
+circumstance which seemed, in the opinion of this generous Livonian, to
+counterbalance every other consideration. In our way we passed by two
+guard-houses, where the men were turned out under arms, in compliment to
+Captain Gore; and were afterward brought to a very neat and decent house,
+which the major gave us to understand was to be our residence during our
+stay. Two sentinels were posted at the doors, and, in a house adjoining,
+there was a serjeant's guard. Having shewn us into our apartments, the
+major took his leave, with a promise to see us the next day: and we were
+left to find out at our leisure all the conveniences that he had most amply
+provided for us. A soldier, called a _putpropersckack_, whose rank is
+between that of a serjeant and a corporal, along with our fellow-traveller
+Port, were appointed to be our male domestics; besides whom, there was a
+housekeeper and a cook, who had orders to obey Port's directions in
+dressing us a supper according to our own mode of cookery. We received many
+civil messages in the course of the evening from the principal people of
+the town, purporting, that they would not add to our fatigues by paying
+their respects to us at that time, but would wait upon us in the morning.
+Such well-supported politeness and attention, in a country so desolate and
+uncultivated, formed a contrast exceedingly favourable to its inhabitants;
+and, to finish the piece as it began, at sun-set the serjeant came with the
+report of his guard to Captain Gore.
+
+Early in the morning we received the compliments of the commander, of
+Captain Shmaleff, and of the principal inhabitants of the town, who all
+honoured us with visits soon after. The two first, having sent for Port,
+after we were gone to rest, and enquired of him what articles we seemed to
+be most in want of on board the ships, we found them prepared to insist on
+our sharing with the garrison under their command, in what little stock of
+provisions they had remaining. At the same time they lamented that we had
+arrived at a season of the year, when there was always the greatest
+scarcity of every thing amongst them, the sloops not being yet arrived,
+with their annual supply, from Okotsk.
+
+We agreed to accept the liberality of these hospitable strangers, with the
+best grace we could; but on condition that we might be made acquainted with
+the price of the articles we were to be supplied with, and that Captain
+Clerke should give bills to the amount upon the Victualling Office in
+London. This the major positively refused; and whenever it was afterwards
+urged, stopped us short, by telling us, he was certain that he could not
+oblige his mistress more than in giving every assistance in his power to
+her good friends and allies the English; and that it would be a particular
+satisfaction to her to hear, that, in so remote a part of the world, her
+dominions had afforded any relief to ships engaged in such services as
+ours; that he could not therefore act so contrary to the character of his
+empress as to accept of any bills; but that to accommodate the matter, he
+would take a bare attestation of the particulars with which we might be
+furnished, and that this he should transmit to his court, as a certificate
+of having performed his duty. I shall leave, he continued, to the two
+courts all farther acknowledgments, but cannot consent to accept of any
+thing of the kind alluded to.
+
+When this matter was adjusted, he began to enquire about our private wants,
+saying, he should consider himself as ill used if we had any dealings with
+the merchants, or applied to any other person except himself.
+
+In return for such singular generosity, we had little to bestow but our
+admiration and our thanks. Fortunately, however, Captain Clerke had sent by
+me a set of prints and maps, belonging to the last voyage of Captain Cook,
+which he desired me to present in his name to the commander; who being an
+enthusiast in every thing relating to discoveries, received it with a
+satisfaction which shewed, that, though a trifle, nothing could have been
+more acceptable. Captain Clerke had likewise entrusted me with a
+discretionary power of shewing him a chart of the discoveries made in the
+present voyage; and as I judged that a person in his situation, and of his
+turn of mind, would be exceedingly gratified by a communication of this
+sort, though, out of delicacy, he had forborn to ask more than a few
+general questions on the subject, I made no scruple to repose in him a
+confidence, of which his whole conduct shewed him to be deserving.
+
+I had the pleasure to find, that he felt this compliment as I hoped he
+would, and was much struck at seeing, in one view, the whole of that coast,
+as well on the side of Asia as on that of America, of which his countrymen
+had been so many years employed in acquiring a partial and imperfect
+knowledge.[19]
+
+Excepting this mark of confidence, and the set of prints I have already
+mentioned, we had brought nothing with us that was in the least worth his
+acceptance; for it scarce deserves noticing, that I prevailed on his son, a
+young boy, to accept of a silver watch I happened to have about me; and I
+made his little daughter very happy with two pair of ear-rings of French
+paste. Besides these trifles, I left with Captain Shmaleff the thermometer
+I used on my journey; and he promised me, to keep an exact register of the
+temperature of the air for one year, and to transmit it to Mr Muller, with
+whom he had the pleasure of being acquainted.
+
+We dined this day at the commander's, who, studious on every occasion to
+gratify our curiosity, had, besides a number of dishes dressed in our own
+way, prepared a great variety of others, after the Russian and Kamtschadale
+manner. The afternoon was employed in taking a view of the town and the
+adjacent country. Bolcheretsk is situated in a low swampy plain, that
+extends to the sea of Okotsk, being about forty miles long, and of a
+considerable breadth. It lies on the north side of the Bolchoireka, or
+great river, between the mouth of the Gottsofka and the Bistraia, which
+here empty themselves into this river; and the peninsula, on which it
+stands, has been separated from the continent by a large canal, the work of
+the present commander; which has not only added much to its strength as a
+fortress, but has made it much less liable than it was before to
+inundations. Below the town the river is from six to eight feet deep, and
+about a quarter of a mile broad. It empties itself into the sea of Okotsk,
+at the distance of twenty-two miles; where, according to Krascheninikoff,
+it is capable of admitting vessels of a considerable size. There is not
+corn, of any species, cultivated in this part of the country; and Major
+Behm informed me, that his was the only garden that had yet been planted.
+The ground was, for the most part, covered with snow; that which was free
+from it appeared full of small hillocks, of a black turfy nature. I saw
+about twenty or thirty cows, And the major had six stout horses. These and
+their dogs are the only tame animals they possess; the necessity they are
+under, in the present state of the country, of keeping great numbers of the
+latter, making it impossible to bring up any cattle that are not in size
+and strength a match for them. For, during the summer season, their dogs
+are entirely let loose, and left to provide for themselves, which makes
+them so exceedingly ravenous, that they will sometimes even attack the
+bullocks.
+
+The houses in Bolcheretsk are all of one fashion, being built of logs, and
+thatched. That of the commander is much larger than the rest, consisting of
+three rooms of a considerable size, neatly papered, and which might have
+been reckoned handsome, if the _talc_ with which the windows were covered,
+had not given them a poor and disagreeable appearance. The town consists of
+several rows of low buildings, each consisting of five or six dwellings,
+connected together, with a long common passage running the length of them,
+on one side of which is the kitchen and store-house, and on the other the
+dwelling apartments. Besides these are barracks for the Russian soldiers
+and cossacks, a well-looking church, and a court-room, and at the end of
+the town a great number of _balagans_, belonging to the Kamtschadales. The
+inhabitants, taken all together, amount to between five and six hundred. In
+the evening the major gave a handsome entertainment, to which the principal
+people of the town of both sexes were invited.
+
+The next morning we applied privately to the merchant, Fedositsch, to
+purchase some tobacco for the sailors, who had now been upward of a
+twelvemonth without this favourite commodity. However, this, like all our
+other transactions of the same kind, came immediately to the major's
+knowledge; and we were soon after surprised to find in our house four bags
+of tobacco, weighing-upward of a hundred pounds each, which he begged might
+be presented, in the name of himself and the garrison under his command, to
+our sailors. At the same time they had sent us twenty loaves of fine sugar,
+and as many pounds of tea, being articles they understood we were in great
+want of, which they begged to be indulged in presenting to the officers.
+Along with these Madame Behm had also sent a present for Captain Clerke,
+consisting of fresh-butter, honey, figs, rice, and some other little things
+of the same kind, attended with many wishes that, in his infirm state of
+health, they might be of service to him. It was in vain we tried to oppose
+this profusion of bounty, which I was really anxious to restrain, being
+convinced that they were giving away, not a share, but almost the whole
+stock of the garrison. The constant answer the major returned us on those
+occasions was, that we had suffered a great deal, and that we must needs be
+in distress. Indeed the length of time we had been out since we touched at
+any known port, appeared to them so very incredible, that it required the
+testimony of our maps, and other corroborating circumstances, to gain their
+belief. Amongst the latter was a very curious fact which Major Behm related
+to us this morning, and which, he said, but for our arrival, he should have
+been totally at a loss to account for.
+
+It is well known that the Tschutski are the only people of the north of
+Asia who have maintained their independence, and resisted all the attempts
+that have been made by the Russians to reduce them. The last expedition
+against them was undertaken in the year 1750, and terminated, after various
+success, in the retreat of the Russian forces, and the loss of the
+commanding officer. Since that time the Russians had removed their frontier
+fortress from the Anadir to the Ingiga, a river that empties itself into
+the northern extremity of the sea of Okotsk, and gives its name to a gulf
+situated to the west of that of Penshinsk. From this fort Major Behm had
+received dispatches the day of our arrival at Bolcheretsk, containing
+intelligence that a tribe, or party of the Tschutski, had arrived at that
+place with propositions of friendship, and a voluntary offer of tribute;
+that on enquiring into the cause of this unexpected alteration in their
+sentiments, they had informed his people, that toward the latter end of the
+last summer they had been visited by two very large Russian boats; that
+they had been treated by the people who were in them with the greatest
+kindness, and had entered into a league of friendship and amity with them;
+and that relying on this friendly disposition, they were now come to the
+Russian fort in order to settle a treaty on such terms as might be
+acceptable to both nations. This extraordinary history had occasioned much
+speculation, both at Ingiginsk and Bolcheretsk; and, had we not furnished
+them with a key to it, must have remained perfectly unintelligible. We felt
+no small satisfaction in having, though accidentally, shewn the Russians,
+in this instance, the only true way of collecting tribute and extending
+their dominions; and in the hopes that the good understanding which this
+event hath given rise to, may rescue a brave people from the future
+invasions of such powerful neighbours.
+
+We dined this day with Captain Shmaleff, and in the afternoon, in order to
+vary our amusements, he treated us with an exhibition of the Russian and
+Kamtschadale dancing. No description can convey an adequate idea of this
+rude and uncouth entertainment. The figure of the Russian dance was much
+like those of our hornpipes, and was danced either single, or by two or
+four persons at a time. Their steps were, short and quick, with the feet
+scarce raised from the ground; the arms were fixed close to the sides, the
+body being all the while kept upright and immovable, excepting when the
+parties passed each other, at which time the hand was raised with a quick
+and awkward motion. But if the Russian dance was, at the same time, both
+unmeaning and ridiculous, the Kamtschadale joined to the latter quality the
+most whimsical idea that ever entered into any people's heads. It is
+intended to represent the awkward and clumsy gestures of the bear, which
+these people have frequent opportunities of observing in a great variety of
+situations. It will scarcely be expected that I should give a minute
+description of all the strange postures which were exhibited on these
+occasions; and I shall therefore only mention, that the body was always
+bowed, and the knees bent, whilst the arms were used in imitating the
+tricks and attitudes of that animal.
+
+As our journey to Bolcheretsk had taken up more time than we expected, and
+we were told that our return might prove still more difficult and tedious,
+we were under the necessity of acquainting the commander this evening with
+our intention of setting out the next day. It was not without the utmost
+regret we thought of leaving our new acquaintance, and were therefore most
+agreeably surprised when the major told us, that if we could stay one
+day longer, he would accompany us. He had, he said, made up his dispatches,
+and resigned the command of Kamtschatka to his successor Captain Shmaleff,
+and had prepared every thing for his departure to Okotsk, which was to take
+place in a few days; but that he should feel great pleasure in putting off
+his journey a little longer, and returning with us to Saint Peter and
+Paul's, that be might himself be a witness of every thing being done for us
+that it was in their power to do.
+
+In return for the few trifles I had given to the children of Major Behm, I
+was next morning, the 15th, presented by his little boy with a most
+magnificent Kamtschadale dress, which shall be described in its proper
+place. It was of the kind worn by the principal _Toions_ of the country on
+occasions of great ceremony; and, as I was afterward told by Fedositsch,
+could not have been purchased for one hundred and twenty roubles. At the
+same time I had a present from his daughter of a handsome sable muff.
+
+We afterward dined with the commander, who, in order to let us see as much
+of the manners of the inhabitants, and of the customs of the country, as
+our time would permit, invited the whole of the better sort of people in
+the village to his house this evening. All the women appeared very
+splendidly dressed after the Kamtschadale fashion. The Wives of Captain
+Shmaleff and the other officers of the garrison, were prettily dressed,
+half in the Siberian and half in the European mode; and Madame Behm, in
+order to make the strongest contrast, had unpacked part of her baggage, and
+put on a rich European dress. I was much struck with the richness and
+variety of the silks which the women wore, and the singularity of their
+habits. The whole was like some enchanted scene in the midst of the wildest
+and most dreary country in the world. Our entertainment again consisted of
+dancing and singing.
+
+The next morning being fixed for our departure, we retired early to our
+lodgings, where the first things we saw were three travelling dresses, made
+after the fashion of the country, which the major had provided for us, who
+came himself to our house soon after, to see all our things packed up and
+properly taken care of. Indeed, what with his liberal presents, and the
+kindness of Captain Shmaleff, and many other individuals, who all begged to
+throw in their mite, together with the ample stock of provisions he had
+sent us for our journey, we had amassed no inconsiderable load of baggage.
+
+Early in the morning, every thing being ready for our departure, we were
+invited to call on Madame Behm in our way to the boats, and take our leave
+of her. Impressed, as our minds were, with sentiments of the warmest
+gratitude, by the attentive, benevolent, and generous treatment we had met
+with at Bolcheretsk, they were greatly heightened by the affecting scene
+which presented itself to us on leaving our lodgings; All the soldiers and
+cossacks belonging to the garrison were drawn up on one hand, and the male
+inhabitants of the town, dressed out in their best clothes, on the other;
+and, as soon as we came out of the house, the whole body of the people
+joined in a melancholy song, which the major told us it was usual in that
+country to sing on taking leave of their friends. In this manner we marched
+down to the commander's house, preceded by the drums and music of the
+garrison, where we were received by Madame Behm, attended by the ladies,
+who were dressed in long silk cloaks, lined with very valuable furs of
+different colours, which made a most magnificent appearance. After
+partaking of some refreshment that was prepared for us, we went down to the
+water-side, accompanied by the ladies, who now joined the song with the
+rest of the inhabitants; and, as soon as we had taken leave of Madame Behm,
+and assured her of the grateful sense we should ever retain of the
+hospitality of Bolcheretsk, we found ourselves too much affected not to
+hasten into the boats with all the expedition we could. When we put off,
+the whole company gave us three cheers, which we returned from the boat;
+and, as we were doubling a point, where, for the last time, we saw our
+friendly entertainers, they took their farewell in another cheer.
+
+We found the stream on our return so exceedingly rapid, that,
+notwithstanding the cossacks and Kamtschadales used their utmost exertions,
+we did not reach the first village, Opatchin, till the evening of the 17th,
+which was at the rate of about twenty miles a day. We got to Natcheekin on
+the 19th; and, on the 20th, we crossed the plain to Karatchin. We found the
+road much better than when we had passed it before, there having been a
+smart frost on the night of the 19th. On the 21st, we proceeded down the
+Awatska river; and, before it was dark, got over the shoals which lie at
+the entrance of the bay. During the whole course of our journey we were
+much pleased with the great good-will with which the _Toions_ and their
+Kamtschadales afforded us their assistance at the different _ostrogs_
+through which we passed; and I could not but observe the pleasure that
+appeared in their countenances on seeing the major, and their strong
+expressions of sorrow, on hearing he was so soon going to leave them.
+
+We had dispatched a messenger to Captain Clerke from Bolcheretsk, with an
+account of our reception, and of the major's intention of returning with
+us, at the same time apprising him of the day he might probably expect to
+see us. We were therefore very well pleased to observe, as we approached
+the harbour, all the boats of the two ships coming towards us, the men
+clean, and the officers as well dressed as the scarcity of our clothing
+would permit. The major was much struck at the robust and healthy
+appearance of the boats' crews, and still more at seeing most of them
+without any other covering than a shirt and trowsers, although at the very
+moment it actually snowed.
+
+As Major Behm had expressed his intentions of visiting the ships before he
+landed, as soon as we arrived off the town, I desired to receive his
+commands; when remarking, that from the account we had given of the very
+bad state of Captain Clerke's health, it might be imprudent to disturb him
+at so late an hour, (it being now past nine o'clock,) he thought it, he
+said, most advisable to remain that night on shore. Accordingly, after
+attending him to the serjeant's house, I took my leave for the present, and
+went on board to acquaint Captain Clerke with my proceedings at
+Bolcheretsk. It was with the utmost concern I found, that, in the fortnight
+we had been absent, this excellent officer was much altered for the worse,
+instead of reaping that advantage we flattered ourselves he might from the
+repose of the harbour, and the milk and vegetable diet with which he was
+supplied.
+
+As soon as I had dispatched this business, I returned to the major, and the
+next morning conducted him to the ships; where, on his arrival, he was
+saluted with thirteen guns, and received with every other mark of
+distinction that it was in our power to pay him. He was attended by the
+commander of one of the Russian galliots, the master of a sloop that lay in
+the harbour, two merchants from Bolcheretsk, and the priest of the
+neighbouring village of Paratounca, for whom he appeared to entertain the
+highest respect, and whom I shall hereafter have occasion to mention, on
+account of his great kindness to Captain Clerke.
+
+After visiting the captain, and taking a view of both the ships, he
+returned to dinner on board the Resolution; and, in the afternoon, the
+various curiosities we had collected in the course of our voyage were shewn
+him, and a complete assortment of every article presented to him by Captain
+Clerke. On this occasion I must not pass over an instance of great
+generosity and gratitude in the sailors of both ships; who, when they were
+told of the handsome present of tobacco that was made them by the major,
+desired, entirely of their own accord, that their grog might be stopped,
+and their allowance of spirits presented, on their part, to the garrison of
+Bolcheretsk, as they said they had reason to conclude that brandy was
+scarce in the country, and would be very acceptable to them, since the
+soldiers on shore had offered four roubles a bottle for it. We, who knew
+how much the sailors always felt whenever their allowance of grog was
+stopped, which was generally done in warm weather, that they might have it
+in a greater proportion in cold, and that this offer would deprive them of
+it during the inclement season we had to expect in our next expedition to
+the north, could not but admire so extraordinary a sacrifice; and, that
+they might not suffer by it, Captain Clerke, and the rest of the officers,
+substituted in the room of the very small quantity the major could be
+prevailed on to accept, the same quantity of rum. This, with a dozen or two
+of Cape wine, for Madame Behm, and such other little presents as were in
+our power to bestow, were accepted in the most obliging manner. The next
+morning the tobacco was divided between the crews of the two ships, three
+pounds being allotted to every man that chewed or smoked tobacco, and one
+pound to those that did not.
+
+I have before mentioned that Major Behm had resigned the command of
+Kamtschatka, and intended to set out in, a short time for Petersburg; and
+he now offered to charge himself with any dispatches we might trust to his
+care. This was an opportunity not to be neglected, and accordingly Captain
+Clerke acquainted him, that he would take the liberty of sending by him
+some papers relating to our voyage, to be delivered to our ambassador at
+the Russian court. Our first intentions were to send only a small journal
+of our proceedings; but, afterward, Captain Clerke being persuaded that the
+whole account of our discoveries might safely be trusted to a person who
+had given such striking proofs both of his public and private virtues; and
+considering that we had a very hazardous part of the voyage still to
+undertake, determined to send by him the whole of the journal of our late
+commander, with that part of his own which completed the period of Captain
+Cook's death till our arrival at Kamtschatka, together with a chart of all
+our discoveries. Mr Bayly and myself thought it also proper to send a
+general account of our proceedings to the Board of Longitude; by which
+precautions, if any misfortune had afterward befallen us, the Admiralty
+would have been in possession of a complete history of the principal facts
+of our voyage. It was also determined that a smaller packet should be sent
+by an express from Okotsk, which, the major said, if he was fortunate in
+his passage to that port, would reach Petersburg by December, and that he
+himself should be there in February or March.
+
+During the three following days the major was entertained alternately in
+the two ships in the best manner we were able. On the 25th he took his
+leave, and was saluted with thirteen guns; and the sailors, at their own
+desire, gave him three cheers. The next morning, Mr Webber and myself
+attended him a few miles up the Awatska river, where we met the Russian
+priest, his wife and children, who were waiting to take the last farewell
+of their commander.
+
+It was hard to say, whether the good priest and his family, or ourselves,
+were most affected on taking leave of Major Behm. Short as our acquaintance
+had been, his noble and disinterested conduct had inspired us with the
+highest respect and esteem for him; and we could not part with a person to
+whom we were under such obligations, and whom we had little prospect of
+ever seeing again, without feeling the most tender concern. The intrinsic
+value of the private presents we received from him, exclusive of the stores
+which might be carried to a public account, must have amounted, according
+to the current price of articles in that country, to upward of two hundred
+pounds. But this generosity, extraordinary as it must appear in itself, was
+exceeded by the delicacy with which all his favours were conferred, and the
+artful manner in which he endeavoured to prevent our feeling the weight of
+obligations, which he knew we had no means of requiting. If we go a step
+further, and consider him as supporting a public character, and maintaining
+the honour of a great sovereign, we shall find a still higher subject of
+admiration, in the just and enlarged sentiments by which he was actuated.
+"The service in which you are employed," he would often say, "is for the
+general advantage of mankind, and therefore gives you a right, not merely
+to the offices of humanity, but to the privileges of citizens, in whatever
+country you may be thrown. I am sure I am acting agreeably to the wishes of
+my mistress, in affording you all the relief in our power; and I cannot
+forget either her character, or my own honour, so much, as to barter for
+the performance of my duty." At other times he would tell us, that he was
+particularly desirous of setting a good example to the Kamtschadales, who,
+he said, were but just emerging from a state of barbarism; that they looked
+up to the Russians as their patterns in every thing; and that he had hopes
+they might in future look upon it as a duty incumbent upon them to assist
+strangers to the utmost of their power, and believe that such was the
+universal practice of civilized nations. To all this must be added, that
+after having relieved, to the utmost of his abilities, all our present
+distresses, he shewed himself not much less mindful of our future wants;
+and as he supposed it more than probable we should not discover the passage
+we were in search of, and therefore should return to Kamtschatka in the
+fall of the year, he made Captain Clerke give him a list of what cordage
+and flour we should want, and promised they should be sent from Okotsk, and
+wait our arrival. For the same purpose, he gave Captain Clerke a paper,
+enjoining all the subjects of the empress, whom we might happen to meet, to
+give us every assistance in their power.[20]
+
+
+[15] Mr Dugald Stewart has not neglected to avail himself of this
+    incident, to illustrate his observations on the power which certain
+    perceptions or impressions on the senses possess to awaken
+    associations.--E.
+
+[16] Even so lately as Captain Krusenstern's visit, the number of horned
+    cattle at Saint Peter and Saint Paul's amounted to no more than ten
+    cows and as many young heifers; of course, he remarks, there was no
+    butter, and very little milk. But it is his opinion, that it would be
+    extremely easy to support some hundred head there, as the place
+    abounds in the finest grass. Elsewhere he informs us, that it is
+    calculated there are about six hundred cattle in the whole of
+    Kamtschatka; a number which, for obvious reasons, he thinks may and
+    ought to be increased.--E.
+
+[17] Extraordinary as this may appear, Krascheninikoff, whose account of
+    Kamtschatka, from every thing that I saw, and had an opportunity of
+    comparing it with, seems to me to deserve entire credit, and whose
+    authority I shall, therefore, frequently have recourse to, relates
+    instances of this kind that are much more surprising. "Travelling
+    parties," says he, "are often overtaken with dreadful storms of snow,
+    on the approach of which they drive with the utmost precipitation into
+    the nearest wood, and there are obliged to stay till the tempest,
+    which frequently lasts six or seven days, is over; the dogs remaining
+    all this while quiet and inoffensive; except that sometimes, when
+    prest by hunger, they will devour the reins and the other leathern
+    parts of the harness."--_History and Description of Kamtschatka, by
+    Krascheninikof_.
+
+[18] Captain King does not seem to have heard or inferred any thing as to
+    the danger usually encountered in the summer excursions on the river,
+    from the nature of the vessels employed. This, according to
+    Krusenstern, infinitely more resembles a trough than a boat, being, in
+    fact, the hollow trunk of a tree, and exceedingly apt to be upset by
+    the rapidity of the stream. Thus, he says, scarcely a year passes in
+    which several people are not drowned, both in the Kamtschatka river
+    and the Awatscha; a serious loss any where, no doubt; but in this
+    country, where population is so scanty, and so uncertain, incomparably
+    more important in a political point of view.--E.
+
+[19] On this occasion Major Behm permitted us to examine all the maps and
+    charts that were in his possession. Those relating to the peninsula of
+    the Tschutski, were made in conformity to the information collected by
+    Plenishner, between the years 1760 and 1770. As the charts of
+    Plenishner were afterwards made use of, according to Mr Coxe, in the
+    compilation of the General Map of Russia, published by the Academy in
+    1776, it may be necessary to observe, that we found them exceedingly
+    erroneous; and that the compilers of the General Map seem to have been
+    led into some mistakes on his authority. Those in which the islands on
+    the coast of America were laid down, we found to contain nothing new,
+    and to be much less accurate than those we saw at Oonalashka.
+
+[20] The reader need scarcely be reminded, that mention is made in the
+    introduction to this voyage, of an honourable testimony of British
+    gratitude for the extraordinary services of this generous man. Of his
+    subsequent history, we regret to say, we are entirely ignorant.--E.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION III.
+
+
+Continuation of Transactions in the Harbour of St Peter and St
+Paul.--Abundance of Fish.--Death of a Seaman belonging to the
+Resolution.--The Russian Hospital put under the Care of the Ship's
+Surgeons.--Supply of Flour and Cattle.--Celebration of the King's
+Birth-day.--Difficulties in Sailing out of the Bay.--Eruption of a
+Volcano.--Steer to the Northward.--Cheepoonskoi Noss.--Errors of the
+Russian Charts.--Kamptschatskoi Noss.--Island of St Laurence.--View, from
+the same Point, of the Coasts of Asia and America, and the Islands of St
+Diomede.--Various Attempts to get to the North, between the two
+Continents.--Obstructed by Impenetrable Ice.--Sea-horses and White Bears
+killed.--Captain Clerke's Determination and future Designs.
+
+
+Having concluded the last section with an account of our return from
+Bolcheretsk, accompanied by Major Behm, the commander of Kamtschatka, and
+of his departure, I shall proceed to relate the transactions that passed in
+the harbour of St Peter and St Paul during our absence. On the 7th of May,
+soon after we had left the bay, a large piece of ice drove across the cut-
+water of the Resolution, and brought home the small bower-anchor. This
+obliged them to weigh the other anchor, and moor again. The carpenters who
+were employed in stopping the leak, were obliged to take off a great part
+of the sheathing from the bows, and found many of the trunnels so very
+loose and rotten, as to be easily drawn out with the fingers.
+
+On the 11th, they had heavy gales from the N.E., which obliged both the
+ships to strike yards and topmasts; but in the afternoon the weather being
+more moderate, and the ice having drifted away as far as the mouth of the
+harbour of St Peter and St Paul, they warped close to the shore for the
+greater convenience, of watering and wooding, and again moored as before;
+the town bearing N. 1/2 W., half a mile distant, and the mouth of the bay
+shut in by the southernmost point of Rakowina harbour, S.
+
+The next day a party was sent on shore to cut wood, but made little
+progress on account of the snow, which still covered the ground. A
+convenient spot was cleared away abreast of the ships, where there was a
+fine run of water; and a tent being erected for the cooper, the empty casks
+were landed, and the sail-makers sent on shore.
+
+On the 15th, the beach being clear of ice, the people were sent to haul the
+seine, and caught an abundant supply of fine flat fish for both the ships'
+companies. Indeed from this time, during the whole of our stay in the
+harbour, we were absolutely overpowered with the quantities of fish which
+came in from every quarter. The _Toions_, both of this town, and of
+Paratounca, a village in the neighbourhood, had received orders from Major
+Behm to employ all the Kamtschadales in our service; so that we frequently
+could not take into the ships the presents that were sent us. They
+consisted in general of fish, cod, trout, and herring. These last, which
+were in their full perfection, and of a delicious flavour, were exceedingly
+abundant in this bay. The Discovery's people surrounded at one time so
+great a quantity in their seine, that they were obliged to throw a vast
+number out, lest the net should be broken to pieces; and the cargo they
+landed was afterward so plentiful, that besides a sufficient store for
+immediate use, they filled as many casks as they could spare for salting;
+and after sending to the Resolution a sufficient quantity for the same
+purpose, they left several bushels behind on the beach.
+
+The snow now began to disappear very rapidly, and abundance of wild garlic,
+celery, and nettle-tops, were gathered for the use of the crews; which
+being boiled with wheat and portable soup, made them a wholesome and
+comfortable breakfast; and with this they were supplied every morning. The
+birch-trees were also tapped, and the sweet juice, which they yielded in
+great quantities, was constantly mixed with the men's allowance of brandy.
+
+The next day a small bullock, which had been procured for the ship's
+company by the serjeant, was killed; and weighed two hundred and seventy-
+two pounds. It was served out to both crews for their Sunday's dinner,
+being the first piece of fresh beef they had tasted since our departure
+from the Cape of Good Hope, in December 1776, a period of near two years
+and a half.
+
+This evening died John Macintosh, the carpenter's mate, after having
+laboured under a dysentery ever since our departure from the Sandwich
+islands; he was a very hard working quiet man, and much regretted by his
+messmates. He was the fourth person we lost by sickness during the voyage;
+but the first who could be said, from his age and the constitutional habits
+of his body, to have had on our setting out an equal chance with the rest
+of his comrades; Watman, we supposed to be about sixty years of age, and
+Roberts and Mr Anderson, from the decay which had evidently commenced
+before we left England, could not, in all probability, under any
+circumstances, have lived a greater length of time than they did.
+
+I have already mentioned, that Captain Clerke's health continued daily to
+decline, notwithstanding the salutary change of diet which the country of
+Kamtschatka afforded him. The priest of Paratounca, as soon as he heard of
+the infirm state he was in, supplied him every day with bread, milk, fresh
+butter, and fowls, though his house was sixteen miles from the harbour
+where we lay.
+
+On our first arrival, we found the Russian hospital, which is near the town
+of St Peter and St Paul, in a condition truly deplorable. All the soldiers
+were, more or less, affected by the scurvy, and a great many in the last
+stage of that disorder. The rest of the Russian inhabitants were also in
+the same condition; and we particularly remarked, that our friend the
+serjeant, by making too free with the spirits we gave him, had brought on
+himself, in the course of a few days, some of the most alarming symptoms of
+that malady. In this lamentable state, Captain Clerke put them all under
+the care of our surgeons, and ordered a supply of sourkrout, and malt, for
+wort, to be furnished for their use. It was astonishing to observe the
+alteration in the figures of almost every person we met on our return from
+Bolcheretsk; and I was informed by our surgeons, that they attributed their
+speedy recovery principally to the effects of the sweetwort.[21]
+
+On the 1st of June we got on board two hundred and fifty poods, or nine
+thousand pound weight of rye-flour, with which we were supplied from the
+stores of St Peter and St Paul; and the Discovery had a proportional
+quantity. The men were immediately put on full allowance of bread, which
+they had not been indulged in since our leaving the Cape of Good Hope. The
+same day our watering was completed, having got on board sixty-five tons.
+
+On the 4th we had fresh breezes and hard rain, which disappointed us in our
+design of dressing the ships, and obliged us to content ourselves with
+firing twenty-one guns in honour of the day, and celebrating it in other
+respects in the best manner we were able. Port, who was left with us on
+account of his skill in languages, behaved himself with so much modesty and
+discretion, that as soon as his master was gone, he was no longer Jean
+Port, but Monsieur Port, the interpreter; and partook, as well as the
+serjeant (in his capacity of commander of the place), of the entertainment
+of the day. Our worthy friend, the priest of Paratounca, having got
+intelligence of its being our king's birth-day, gave also a sumptuous
+feast; at which some of our gentlemen were present, who seemed highly
+delighted with their entertainment, which consisted of abundance of good
+eating and drinking, together with dancing.
+
+On the 6th, twenty head of cattle were sent us by the commander's orders,
+from the Verchnei _ostrog_, which is situated on the river Kamtschatka, at
+the distance of near a hundred miles from this place, in a direct line.
+They were of a moderate size; and, notwithstanding the Kamtschadales had
+been seventeen days in driving them down to the harbour, arrived in good
+condition. The four following days were employed in making ready for sea;
+and on the 11th, at two in the morning, we began to unmoor; but before we
+had got one anchor up, it blew so strong a gale from the N.E., that we kept
+fast, and moored again; conjecturing, from the position of the entrance of
+the bay, that the current of wind would set up the channel. Accordingly,
+the pinnace being sent out to examine the passage, returned with an
+account, that the wind blew strong from the S.E., with a great swell
+setting into the bay, which would have made any attempt to get to sea very
+hazardous.
+
+Our friend Port now took his leave of us, and carried with him the box with
+our Journals, which was to go by the major, and the packet that was to be
+sent express. On the 12th, the weather being more moderate, we began to
+unmoor again; but, after breaking the messenger, and reeving a running
+purchase with a six-inch hawser, which also broke three times, we were
+obliged at last to heave a strain at low water, and wait for the flowing of
+the tide to raise the anchor. This project succeeded; but not without
+damaging the cable in the wake of the hawse. At three we weighed the best
+bower, and set sail; and at eight having little wind, and the tide making
+against us, we dropped anchor again in ten fathoms, off the mouth of
+Rakowina harbour; the _ostrog_ bearing N. by E. 1/2 E., two miles and a
+half distant; the Needle Rocks on the east side of the passage, S.S.E. 1/2
+E.; and the high rock, on the west side of the passage, S.
+
+On the 13th, at four in the morning, we got under way with the ebb tide;
+and there being a dead calm, the boats were sent ahead to tow the ships. At
+ten the wind springing up from the S.E. by S., and the tide having turned,
+we were again obliged to drop anchor in seven fathoms; the Three Needle
+Rocks bearing S. 1/2 E.; and the _ostrog_ N. 1/2 E., at the distance of one
+mile from the nearest land. After dinner I went with Captain Gore on shore
+on the east side of the passage, where we saw, in two different places, the
+remains of extensive villages; and on the side of the hill an old ruined
+parapet, with four or five embrasures. It commanded the passage up the
+mouth of the bay; and in Beering's time, as he himself mentions, had guns
+mounted on it. Near this place were the ruins of some caverns under ground,
+which we supposed to have been magazines.
+
+At six in the afternoon we weighed with the ebb tide, and turned to
+windward; but at eight a thick fog arising, we were obliged to bring-to, as
+our soundings could not afford us a sufficient direction for steering
+between several sunk rocks, which lie on each side of the passage we had to
+make. In the morning of the 14th, the fog clearing away, we weighed as soon
+as the tide began to ebb, and having little wind, sent the boats ahead to
+tow; but at ten o'clock, both the wind and tide set in so strong from the
+sea, that we were again obliged to drop anchor in thirteen fathoms, the
+high rock bearing W. 1/4 S., distant three quarters of a mile. We remained
+fast for the rest of the day, the wind blowing fresh into the mouth of the
+bay; and toward evening, the weather had a very unusual appearance, being
+exceedingly dark and cloudy, with an unsettled shifting wind.
+
+Before day-light, on the 15th, we were surprised with a rumbling noise,
+resembling distant hollow thunder; and when the day broke, we found the
+decks and sides of the ships covered with a fine dust like emery, near an
+inch thick. The air at the same time continued loaded and darkened with
+this substance, and toward the _volcano_ mountain, situated to the north of
+the harbour, it was so thick and black, that we could not distinguish the
+body of the hill. About twelve o'clock, and during the afternoon, the
+explosions became louder, and were followed by showers of cinders, which
+were in general about the size of peas; though many were picked up from the
+deck larger than a hazel-nut. Along with the cinders fell several small
+stones, which had undergone no change from the action of fire. In the
+evening we had dreadful thunder and lightning, which, with the darkness of
+the atmosphere, and the sulphureous smell of the air, produced altogether a
+most awful and terrifying effect. We were at this time about eight leagues
+from the foot of the mountain.
+
+On the 16th, at day-light, we again weighed anchor, and stood out of the
+bay; but the ebb tide setting across the passage upon the eastern shore,
+and the wind falling, we were driven very near the Three Needle Rocks,
+which lie on that side of the entrance, and obliged to hoist out the boats,
+in order to tow the ships clear of them. At noon we were two leagues from
+the land, and had soundings with forty-three fathoms of line, over a bottom
+of small stones, of the same kind with those which fell on our decks after
+the eruption of the _volcano_; but whether they had been, left there by the
+last, or by some former eruptions, we were not able to determine.
+
+The aspect of the country was now very different from what it had been on
+our first arrival. The snow, excepting what remained on the tops of some
+very high mountains, had disappeared; and the sides of the hills, which in
+many parts were well wooded, were covered with a beautiful verdure.
+
+As it was Captain Clerke's intention to keep as much in sight of the coast
+of Kamtschatka as the weather would permit, in order to determine its
+position, we continued steering to the N.N.E, with light and variable winds
+till the 18th. The _volcano_ was still seen throwing up immense volumes of
+smoke, and we had no soundings with one hundred and fifty fathoms, at the
+distance of four leagues from the shore.
+
+On the 18th, the wind freshening from the south, the weather became so
+thick and hazy, as to make it imprudent to attempt any longer to keep in
+sight of the land. But that we might be ready to resume our survey,
+whenever the fogs should disperse, we ran on in the direction of the coast,
+as laid down in the Russian charts, and fired signal guns for the Discovery
+to steer the same course. At eleven o'clock, just before we lost sight of
+the land, Cheepoonskoi Noss, so called by the Russians, (a description of
+which, as well as the coast between it and Awatska Bay, will be given,
+hereafter), bore N.N.E., distant seven or eight leagues.
+
+On the 20th, at three in the morning, the weather having cleared up, we
+stood in toward the land; and in an hour's time saw it ahead, extending
+from N.W. to N.N.E., distant about five leagues. The north part we took to
+be Kronotskoi Noss; its position in the Russian charts agreeing nearly with
+our reckoning as to its latitude, which was 54 deg. 42'; but in longitude we
+differed from them considerably, they placing it 1 deg. 48' E. of Awatska;
+whereas our reckoning, corrected by the time-keepers and lunar
+observations, makes it 3 deg. 34' eastward of that place, or 162 deg. 17' E. from
+Greenwich. The land about this cape is very high, and the inland mountains
+were still covered with snow. The shore breaks off in steep cliffs, and the
+coast is without appearance of inlets or bays. We had not been long
+gratified with this sight of the land, when the Wind freshened from the
+S.W., and brought on a thick fog, which obliged us to stand off to the
+N.E.by E. The weather clearing up again at noon, we steered toward the
+land, expecting to fall in with Kamtschatskoi Noss, and had sight of it at
+day-break of the 21st.
+
+The southerly wind was soon after succeeded by a light breeze blowing off
+the land, which prevented our approaching the coast sufficiently near to
+describe its aspect, or ascertain with accuracy its direction. At noon our
+latitude, by observation, was 55 deg. 52', and longitude (deduced from a
+comparison of many lunar observations, taken near this time, with the time-
+keepers), 163 deg. 50'; the extremities of the land bearing N.W. by W. 3/4 W.,
+and N. by W. 3/4 W., the nearest part about eight leagues distant. At nine
+o'clock in the evening, having approached about two leagues nearer the
+coast, we found it formed a projecting peninsula, extending about twelve
+leagues in a direction nearly north and south. It is level, and of a
+moderate height, the southern extremity terminating in a low sloping point;
+that to the north forming a steep bluff head; and between them, about four
+leagues to the southward of the northern cape, there is a considerable
+break in the land. On each side of this break the land is quite low; beyond
+the opening rises a remarkable saddle-like hill; and a chain of high
+mountains, covered with snow, ranges along the back of the whole peninsula.
+
+As the coast runs in an even direction, we were at a great loss where to
+place Kamtschatskoi Noss, which, according to Muller, forms a projecting
+point about the middle of the peninsula, and which certainly does not
+exist; but I have since found, that in the general map published by the
+Academy of Petersburgh in 1776, that name is given to the southern cape.
+This was found, by several accurate observations, to be in latitude 56 deg. 3',
+longitude 163 deg. 20'; the difference, in longitude, from the Russian charts,
+being the same as at Kronotskoi Noss. The variation of the compass at this
+time was 10 deg. E. To the southward of this peninsula, the great river
+Kamtschatka falls into the sea.
+
+As the season was too far advanced to admit of our making an accurate
+survey of the coast of Kamtschatka, it was Captain Clerke's plan, in our
+run to Beering'a Strait, to determine principally the positions of the
+projecting points of the coast. We therefore directed our course across an
+extensive bay, laid down between Kamtschatskoi Noss and Olutorskoi Noss,
+intending to make the latter; which, according to the Russian geographers,
+terminates the peninsula called Kamtschatka, and becomes the southern
+boundary of the Koriaki country.
+
+On the 22d we passed a dead whale, which emitted a horrid stench,
+perceivable at upward of a league's distance; it was covered with a great
+number of sea-birds, that were feasting on it.
+
+On the 24th, the wind, which had varied round the compass the three
+preceding days, fixed at S.W., and brought clear weather, with which we
+continued our course to the N.E. by N. across the bay, without any land in
+sight.
+
+This day we saw a great number of gulls, and were witnesses to the
+disgusting mode of feeding of the arctic gull, which has procured it the
+name of the parasite; and which, if the reader is not already acquainted
+with it, he will find in the note below.[22]
+
+On the 25th, at one o'clock in the afternoon, being in latitude 59 deg. 12',
+longitude 168 deg. 35', the wind freshening from the same quarter, a thick fog
+succeeded; and this unfortunately just at the time we expected to see
+Olutorskoi Noss, which, if Muller places it right in latitude 59 deg. 3O', and
+in longitude 167 deg.36', could only have then been twelve leagues from us; at
+which distance, land of a moderate height might easily have been seen. But
+if the same error in longitude prevails here, which we have hitherto
+invariably found, it would have been much nearer us, even before the fog
+came on; and as we saw no appearances of land at that time, it must either
+have been very low, or there must be some mistake of latitude in Muller's
+account. We tried soundings, but had no ground with one hundred and sixty
+fathoms of line.
+
+The weather still thickening, and preventing a nearer approach to the land,
+at five we steered E. by N., which is somewhat more easterly than the
+Russian charts lay down the trending of the coast from Olutorskoi Noss. The
+next day we had a fresh gale from the S.W., which lasted till the 27th at
+noon, when the fogs clearing away, we stood to the northward, in order to
+make the land. The latitude at noon, by observation, was 59 deg. 49', longitude
+175 deg. 43'. Notwithstanding we saw shags in the forenoon, which are supposed
+never to go far from land, yet there was no appearance of it this day; but
+on the 28th, at six in the morning, we got sight of it to the N.W. The
+coast shews itself in hills of a moderate height; but inland, others are
+seen to rise considerably. We could observe no wood, and the snow lying
+upon them in patches, gave the whole a very barren appearance. At nine we
+were about ten miles from the shore, the southern extremity bearing W. by
+S., six leagues distant, beyond which the coast appeared to trend to the
+westward. This point being in latitude 61 deg. 48', longitude 174 deg., 48', lies,
+according to the Russian charts, near the mouth of the river Opuka. At the
+same time the northern extreme bore N. by W.; between which and a hill
+bearing N.W. by W. 1/4 W., and at this distance appearing to us like an
+island, the coast seemed to bend to the westward, and form a deep bay.
+
+About eight miles from land, we perceived ourselves in a strong rippling;
+and being apprehensive of foul ground, we bore away to the N.E., along the
+shore; notwithstanding, on heaving the lead, we found regular soundings of
+twenty-four fathoms, over a gravelly bottom; from whence we concluded, that
+this appearance was occasioned by a tide, at that time running to the
+southward. At noon, the extremes of the land bearing W.S.W. 3/4 W., and
+N.N.E. 3/4 E., distant from the nearest shore four leagues, we were abreast
+of the low land, which we now perceived to join the two points, where we
+had before expected to find a deep bay. The coast bends a little to the
+westward, and has a small inlet, which may probably be the mouth of some
+trifling stream. Our latitude, by observation, was 61 deg. 56', and longitude
+175 deg. 43', and the variation of the compass 17 deg. 30' E.
+
+We continued during the afternoon to run along the shore, at the distance
+of four or five leagues, with a moderate westerly breeze, carrying regular
+soundings from twenty-eight to thirty-six fathoms. The coast presented the
+same barren aspect as to the southward; the hills rising considerably
+inland, but to what height, the clouds on their tops put it out of our
+power to determine. At eight in the evening, land was thought to have been
+seen to the E. by N., on which, we steered to the southward of E.; but it
+turned out to be only a fog-bank. At midnight, the extreme point bearing
+N.E. 1/4 E., we supposed it to be Saint Thadeus's Noss; to the southward of
+which the land trends to the westward, and forms a deep bight, wherein,
+according to the Russian charts, lies the river Katirka.
+
+On the 29th, the weather was unsettled and variable, with the wind from the
+N.E. At noon of the 30th, our latitude, by observation, was 61 deg. 48', and
+longitude 180 deg. 0'; at which time Saint Thadeus's Noss bore N.N.W., twenty-
+three leagues distant, and beyond it we observed the coast stretching
+almost directly N. The most easterly point of the Noss is in latitude 62 deg.
+50', and longitude 179 deg. 0', being 3-1/2 deg. more to the E. than what the
+Russians make it. The land about it must be of a considerable height, from
+its being seen at so great a distance. During the two last days, we saw
+numbers of whales, large seals, and sea-horses; also gulls, sea-parrots,
+and albatrosses. We took the advantage of a little calm weather to try for
+fish, and caught abundance of fine cod. The depth of water from sixty-five
+to seventy-five fathoms.
+
+On the 1st of July at noon, Mr Bligh having moored a small keg with the
+deep-sea lead, in seventy-five fathoms, found the ship made a course N. by
+E., half a mile an hour. This he attributed to the effect of a long
+southerly swell, and not to that of any current. The wind freshening from
+the S.E. toward evening, we shaped our course to the N.E. by E., for the
+point called in Beering's chart Tschukotskoi Noss, which we had observed on
+the 4th of September last year, at the same time that we saw, to the S E.,
+the island of Saint Laurence. This cape, and Saint Thadeus's Noss, form the
+N.E. and S.W. extremities of the large and deep gulph of Anadir, into the
+bottom of which the river of that name empties itself, dividing as it
+passes the country of the Koriacs from that of the Tschutski.
+
+On the 3d at noon, the latitude, by observation, was 63 deg. 33', and the
+longitude 186 deg. 45'; half an hour after which we got sight of the
+Tschukotskoi Noss, bearing N. 1/2 W., thirteen or fourteen leagues distant;
+and at five in the afternoon saw the island of Saint Laurence, bearing E.
+3/4 N.; and another island a little to the eastward of it, which we
+supposed to be between Saint Laurence and Anderson's Island, about six
+leagues E.S.E. of the former. As we had no certain accounts of this island,
+Captain Clerke was desirous of a nearer prospect, and immediately hauled
+the wind toward it; but unfortunately we were not able to weather the
+island of Saint Laurence, and were therefore under the necessity of bearing
+up again, and passing them all to the leeward.
+
+We had a better opportunity of settling the longitude of the island Saint
+Laurence, when we last saw it than now. But seeing it at that time but
+once, and to the southward, we could only determine its latitude so far as
+we could judge of distances; whereas now the noon observations enabled us
+to ascertain it correctly, which is 63 deg. 47'. Its longitude was found to be
+188 deg. 15' as before. This island, if its boundaries were at this time within
+our view, is about three leagues in circuit. The north part may be seen at
+the distance of ten or twelve leagues; but as it falls in lowland to the
+south-east, the extent of which we could not see, some of us conjectured
+that it might probably be joined to the land to the eastward of it; this,
+however, the haziness of the weather prevented our ascertaining. These
+islands, as well as the land about the Tschukotskoi Noss, were covered with
+snow, and presented us with a most dreary picture. At midnight, Saint
+Laurence bore S.S.E., five or six miles distant; and our depth of water was
+eighteen fathoms. We were accompanied by various kinds of sea-fowl, and saw
+several small crested hawks.
+
+The weather still continuing to thicken, we lost all sight of land till the
+5th, when it appeared both to the N.E. and N.W, Our latitude, by account,
+was at this time 65 deg. 24', longitude 189 deg. 14'. As the islands of Saint
+Diomede, which lie between the two continents in Beering's strait, were
+determined by us last year to be in latitude 65 deg. 48', we could not
+reconcile the land to the N.E., with the situation of these islands. We
+therefore stood toward the land till three in the afternoon, when we were
+within four miles of it, and finding it to be two islands, were pretty well
+satisfied of their being the same; but the weather still continuing hazy,
+to make sure of our situation, we stood over to the coast of Asia till
+seven in the evening; at which time we were within two or three leagues of
+the east cape of that continent.
+
+This cape is a high round head of land, extending four or five miles from
+north to south, forming a peninsula, and connected with the continent by a
+narrow neck of low land. Its shore is bold, and off its north part are
+three high, detached, spiral rocks. At this time it was covered with snow,
+and the beach surrounded with ice. We were now convinced, that we had been
+under the influence of a strong current, setting to the north, that had
+caused an error in our latitude at noon of twenty miles. In passing this
+strait the last year, we had experienced the same effect.
+
+Being at length sure of our position, we held on to the N. by E. At ten at
+night the weather becoming clear, we had an opportunity of seeing, at the
+same moment, the remarkable peaked hill, near Cape Prince of Wales, on the
+coast of America, and the east cape of Asia, with the two connecting
+islands of Saint Diomede between them.[23]
+
+At noon on the 6th, the latitude, by account, was 67 deg. N., and the longitude
+191 deg. 6' E. Having already passed a considerable number of large masses of
+ice, and observed that it still adhered in several places to the shore on
+the continent of Asia, we were not much surprised to fall in, at three in
+the afternoon, with an extensive body of it, stretching away to the
+westward. This sight gave great discouragement to our hopes of advancing
+much farther northward this year, than we had done the preceding.
+
+Having little wind in the afternoon, we hoisted out the boats in pursuit of
+the sea-horses, which were in great numbers on the detached pieces of ice;
+but they soon returned without success; these animals being exceedingly
+shy, and before they could come within gun-shot always making their retreat
+into the water.
+
+At seven in the evening we hoisted in the boats, and the wind freshening
+from the southward, we stood on to the N.E., with a view of exploring the
+continent of America, between the latitudes of 68 deg. and 69 deg., which,
+owing to the foggy weather last year, we had not been able to examine. In
+this attempt we were again in part disappointed. For on the 7th, at six in
+the morning, we were stopped by a large field of ice, stretching from N.W.
+to S.E.; but soon after, the horizon becoming clear, we had sight of the
+coast of America, at about ten leagues distance, extending from N.E. by E.
+to E., and lying, by observation, between the 68 deg. and 68 deg. 20' of latitude.
+As the weather was clear, and the ice not high, we were enabled to see over
+a great extent of it. The whole presented a solid and compact surface, not
+in the smallest degree thawed; and appeared to us likewise to adhere to the
+land.
+
+The weather soon after changing to hazy, we saw no more of the land; and
+there not remaining a possibility of approaching nearer to it, we stood to
+the N.N.W., keeping the ice close on board, and got round its western
+extremity by noon, when we found it trending nearly N. Our latitude at this
+time was, by account, 68 deg. 22', and longitude 192 deg. 34'. We continued our
+course to the N.N.E., along the edge of the ice, during the remaining part
+of the day, passing through many loose pieces that had been broken, off
+from the main body, and against which, notwithstanding all our caution, the
+ships were driven with great violence. At eight o'clock in the evening, we
+passed some drift-wood; and at midnight the wind shifted to the N.W., the
+thermometer fell from 38 deg. to 31', and we had continued showers of snow and
+sleet.
+
+On the 8th at five in the morning, the wind coming still more to the
+northward, we could no longer keep on the same tack, on account of the ice,
+but were obliged to stand to the westward. At this time our soundings had
+decreased to nineteen fathoms, from which, on comparing it with our
+observations on the depth of water last year, we concluded that we were not
+at a greater distance from the American shore than six or seven leagues;
+but our view was confined within a much shorter compass, by a violent fall
+of snow. At noon, the latitude, by account, was 69 deg. 21', longitude 192 deg.
+42'. At two in the afternoon the weather cleared up, and we found ourselves
+close to an expanse of what appeared from the deck solid ice; but, from the
+mast-head, it was discovered to be composed of huge compact bodies, close
+and united toward the outer edge, but in the interior parts several
+pieces were seen floating in vacant spaces of the water. It extended from
+N.E. by the N. to W.S.W. We bore away by the edge of it to the southward,
+that we might get into clearer water; for the strong northerly winds had
+drifted down such quantities of loose pieces, that we had been for some
+time surrounded by them, and could not avoid striking against several,
+notwithstanding we reefed the topsails, and stood under an easy sail.
+
+On the 9th we had a fresh gale from the N.N.W., with heavy showers of snow
+and sleet. The thermometer was in the night time 28 deg., and at noon 30 deg.. We
+continued to steer W.S.W., as before, keeping as near the large body of ice
+as we could, and had the misfortune to rub off some of the sheathing from
+the bows against the drift pieces, and to damage the cutwater. Indeed, the
+shocks we could not avoid receiving, were frequently so severe, as to be
+attended with considerable danger. At noon, the latitude, by account, was
+69 deg. 12',. and longitude 188 deg. 5'. The variation in the afternoon was found
+to be 29 deg. 30' E.
+
+As we had now sailed near forty leagues to the westward, along the edge of
+the ice, without seeing any opening, or a clear sea to the northward beyond
+it, and had therefore no prospect of advancing farther N. for the present,
+Captain Clerke resolved to bear away to the S. by E. (the only quarter that
+was clear), and to wait till the season was more advanced, before he made
+any farther efforts to penetrate through the ice. The intermediate time he
+proposed to spend in examining the bay of Saint Laurence, and the coast to
+the southward of it; as a harbour so near, in case of future damage from
+the ice, would be very desirable. We also wished to pay another visit to
+our Tschutski friends; and particularly since the accounts we had heard of
+them from the commander of Kamtschatka.
+
+We therefore stood on to the southward, till the noon of the 10th, at which
+time we passed great quantities of drift-ice, and the wind fell to a
+perfect calm. The latitude, by observation, was 68 deg. 1', longitude 188 deg. 30'.
+We passed several whales in the forenoon, and in the afternoon hoisted out
+the boats, and sent them in pursuit of the sea-horses, which were in great
+numbers on the pieces of ice that surrounded us. Our people were more
+successful than they had been before, returning with three large ones and a
+young one; besides killing and wounding several others. The gentlemen who
+went on this party were witnesses of several remarkable instances of
+parental affection in those animals. On the approach of our boats toward
+the ice, they all took their cubs under their fins, and endeavoured to
+escape with them into the sea. Several, whose young were killed or wounded,
+and left floating on the surface, rose again, and carried them down,
+sometimes just as our people were going to take them up into the boat; and
+might be traced bearing them to a great distance through the water, which
+was coloured with their blood; we afterward observed them bringing them at
+times above the surface, as if for air, and again diving under it with a
+dreadful bellowing. The female, in particular, whose young had been
+destroyed, and taken into the boat, became so enraged, that she attacked
+the cutter, and struck her two tusks through the bottom of it.
+
+At eight in the evening, a breeze sprang up to the eastward, with which we
+still continued our course to the southward, and at twelve fell in with
+numerous large bodies of ice. We endeavoured to push through them with an
+easy sail, for fear of damaging the ship; and having got a little farther
+to the southward, nothing was to be seen but one compact field of ice,
+stretching to the S.W., S.E., and N.E., as far as the eye could reach. This
+unexpected and formidable obstacle put an end to Captain Clerke's plan of
+visiting the Tschutski; for no space remained open, but back again to the
+northward. Accordingly, at three in the morning of the 11th, we tacked, and
+stood to that quarter. At noon, the latitude, by observation, was 67 deg. 49',
+and longitude 188 deg. 47'.
+
+On the 12th, we had light winds, with thick hazy weather; and on trying the
+current, we found it set to the N.W., at the rate of half a knot an hour.
+We continued to steer northward, with a moderate southerly breeze and fair
+weather till the 13th, at ten in the forenoon, when we again found
+ourselves close in with a solid field of ice, to which we could see no
+limits from the mast-head. This at once dashed all our hopes of penetrating
+farther, which had been considerably raised, by having now advanced near
+ten leagues through a space, which on the 9th we had found occupied by
+impenetrable ice. Our latitude at this time was 69 deg. 37'; our position
+nearly in the mid-channel between tween the two continents; and the field
+of ice extending from E.N.E. to W.S.W.
+
+As there did not remain the smallest prospect of getting farther north in
+the part of the sea where we now were, Captain Clerke resolved to make one
+more and final attempt on the American coast, for Baffin's Bay, since we
+had been able to advance the farthest on this side last year. Accordingly
+we kept working the remaining part of the day to the windward, with a fresh
+easterly breeze. We saw several fulmars and arctic gulls, and passed two
+trees, both appearing to have lain in the water a long time. The larger was
+about ten feet in length, and three in circumference, without either bark
+or branches, but with the roots remaining attached.
+
+On the 14th, we stood on to the eastward, with thick and foggy weather, our
+course being nearly parallel to that we steered the 8th and 9th, but six
+leagues more to the northward. On the 15th, the wind freshened from the
+westward, and having in a great measure dispersed the fog, we immediately
+stood to the northward, that we might take a nearer view of the ice; and in
+an hour were close in with it, extending from N.N.W. to N.E. We found it to
+be compact and solid; the outer parts were ragged, and of different
+heights; the interior surface was even, and we judged from eight to ten
+feet above the level of the sea. The weather becoming moderate for the
+remaining part of the day, we directed our course according to the trending
+of the ice, which in many parts formed deep bays.
+
+In the morning of the 16th the wind freshened, and was attended with thick
+and frequent showers of snow. At eight in the forenoon, it blew a strong
+gale from the W.S.W., and brought us under double-reefed top-sails; when
+the weather clearing a little, we found ourselves embayed, the ice having
+taken a sudden turn to the S.E., and in one compact body surrounding us on
+all sides, except on the south quarter. We therefore hauled our wind to the
+southward, being at this time in latitude 70 deg. 8' N., and in twenty-six
+fathoms water; and, as we supposed, about twenty-five leagues from the
+coast of America. The gale increasing, at four in the afternoon we close
+reefed the fore and main top-sails, furled the mizen-top-sail, and got the
+top-gallant-yards down upon deck. At eight, finding the depth of water had
+decreased to twenty-two fathoms, which we considered as a proof of
+our near approach to the American coast, we tacked and stood to the north.
+We had blowing weather, accompanied with snow, through the night; but next
+morning it became clear and moderate, and at eight in the forenoon we got
+the top-gallant yards across, and made sail with the wind still at W.S.W.
+At noon we were in latitude, by observation, 69 deg. 55', longitude 194 deg. 30'.
+Toward evening the wind slackened, and at midnight it was a calm.
+
+On the 18th, at five in the morning, a light breeze sprung up from the
+E.N.E., with which we continued our course to the north, in order to regain
+the ice as soon as possible. We passed some small logs of drift-wood, and
+saw abundance of sea-parrots, and the small ice-birds, and likewise a
+number of whales. At noon the latitude, by observation, was 70 deg. 26', and
+longitude 194 deg. 54'; the depth of water twenty-three fathoms; the ice
+stretched from N. to E.N.E., and was distant about three miles. At one in
+the afternoon, finding that we were close in with a firm united field of
+it, extending from W.N.W. to E., we tacked, and the wind coming round to
+the westward, stood on to the eastward, along its edge, till eleven at
+night. At that time a very thick fog coming on, and the water shoaling to
+nineteen fathoms, we hauled our wind to the south. The variation observed
+this day was 31 deg. 20' E. It is remarkable, that though we saw no sea-horses
+on the body of the ice, yet they were in herds, and in greater numbers on
+the detached fragments, than we had ever observed before. About nine in the
+evening, a white bear was seen swimming close by the Discovery; it
+afterward made to the ice, on which were also two others.
+
+On the 19th, at one in the morning, the weather clearing up, we again
+steered to the N.E. till two, when we were a second time so completely
+embayed, that there was no opening left but to the south; to which quarter
+we accordingly directed our course, returning through a remarkably smooth
+water, and with very favourable weather, by the same way we had come in. We
+were never able to penetrate farther north than at this time, when our
+latitude was 70 deg. 33'; and this was five leagues short of the point to which
+we advanced last season. We held on to the S.S.W., with light winds from
+the N.W., by the edge of the main ice, which lay on our left hand, and
+stretched between us and the continent of America. Our latitude, by
+observation at noon, was 70 deg. 11', our longitude 196 deg. 15', and the depth of
+water sixteen fathoms. From this circumstance, we judged that the Icy Cape
+was now only at seven or eight leagues distance; but though the weather was
+in general clear, it was at the same time hazy in the horizon; so that we
+could not expect to see it.[24]
+
+In the afternoon we saw two white bears in the water, to which we
+immediately gave chase in the jolly-boat, and had the good fortune to kill
+them both. The larger, which probably was the dam of the younger, being
+shot first, the other would not quit it, though it might easily have
+escaped on the ice whilst the men were reloading, but remained swimming
+about, till after being fired upon several times, it was shot dead.
+
+The dimensions of the larger were as follow:
+
+
+                                                  Ft. In.
+
+From the snout to the end of the tail              7   2
+From the snout to the shoulder-bone                2   3
+Height of the shoulder                             4   3
+Circumference near the fore-legs                   4  10
+Breadth of the fore-paw                               10
+
+                                                  lb.
+Weight of the four quarters                      436
+Weight of the four quarters of the smallest      256
+
+
+On comparing the dimensions of this with Lord Mulgrave's white bear, they
+were found almost exactly the same, except in the circumference, where
+our's fell exceedingly short.
+
+These animals afforded us a few excellent meals of fresh meat. The flesh
+had, indeed, a strong filthy taste, but was, in every respect infinitely
+superior to that of the sea-horse; which nevertheless our people were again
+persuaded, without much difficulty, to prefer to their salted provisions.
+
+At six in the morning of the 20th, a thick fog coming on, we lost sight of
+the ice for two hours; but the weather clearing, we saw the main body again
+to the S.S.E., when we hauled our wind, which was easterly, toward it, in
+the expectation of making the American coast to the S.E., and which we
+effected at half past ten. At noon, the latitude, by account, was 69 deg. 33',
+and longitude 194 deg. 53', and the depth of water nineteen fathoms. The land
+extended from S. by E. to S.S.W. 1/2 W., distant eight or ten leagues,
+being the same we had seen last year; but it was now much more covered with
+snow than at that time, and to all appearance the ice adhered to the shore.
+We continued in the afternoon sailing through a sea of loose ice, and
+standing toward the land, as near as the wind, which was E.S.E., would
+admit. At eight the wind lessening, there came on a thick fog, and on
+perceiving a rippling in the water, we tried the current, which we found to
+set to the E.N.E., at the rate of a mile an hour, and therefore determined
+to steer during the night before the wind, in order to stem it, and to
+oppose the large fragments of loose ice that were setting us on toward the
+land. The depth of the water at midnight was twenty fathoms.
+
+At eight in the morning of the 21st, the wind freshening, and the fog
+clearing away, we saw the American coast to the S.E., at the distance of
+eight or ten leagues, and hauled in for it; but were stopped again by the
+ice, and obliged to bear away to the westward, along the edge of it. At
+noon, the latitude, by account, was 69 deg. 34', and longitude 193 deg., and the
+depth of water twenty-four fathoms.
+
+Thus a connected solid field of ice, rendering every effort we could make
+to a nearer approach to the land fruitless, and joining as we judged to it,
+we took a last farewell of a N.E passage to Old England. I shall beg leave
+to give, in Captain Clerke's own words, the reasons of this his final
+determination, as well as of his future plans; and this the rather, as it
+is the last transaction his health permitted him to write down.
+
+"It is now impossible to proceed the least farther to the northward upon
+this coast (America); and it is equally as improbable that this amazing
+mass of ice should be dissolved by the few remaining summer-weeks which
+will terminate this season; but it will continue, it is to be believed, as
+it now is, an insurmountable barrier to every attempt we can possibly make.
+I therefore think it the best step that can be taken, for the good of the
+service, to trace the sea over to the Asiatic coast, and to try if I can
+find any opening, that will admit me farther north; if not, to see what
+more is to be done upon that coast; where I hope, yet cannot much flatter
+myself, to meet with better success; for the sea is now so choaked with
+ice, that a passage, I fear, is totally out of the question."
+
+
+[21] Krusenstern substantially admits the correctness of Captain King's
+    statement respecting the Russian hospital, &c. by saying, expressively
+    enough, things are not quite so bad at present. It is evident,
+    however, from his remarks, that the change to the better is almost to
+    the full amount of being imperceptible, notwithstanding the zeal of
+    some individuals whose exertions he is anxious to eulogize, and his
+    own disposition to believe that their well-meant exertions have not
+    been entirely fruitless. The change, it would seem, consists in the
+    greater quantities of medicine sent to Kamtschatka, and not in the
+    greater practicability of judiciously applying them. This, most
+    persons of discernment will shrewdly suspect, is several degrees worse
+    than problematically a change to the better. At least one could
+    scarcely help desiring rather to accept peaceably the warrant of a
+    natural death, than to risk the enhancement of a conflict on the
+    doubtful aid of a bungling doctor, whose chief recommendation,
+    perhaps, if he would but allow himself to be favoured by it, consisted
+    in his avowed ignorance securing his neutrality. In such a case,
+    indeed, and it seems on the whole to be almost the very one which K.
+    describes, it is obvious enough that the medicines can at least do no
+    more harm than the bottles and boxes that contain them; but then one
+    cannot easily perceive wherein consists the merit or utility of having
+    provided them, unless, as in the instance of fire-arms hung over the
+    chimney never to be loaded or fired, or in that of idols of wood and
+    stone which adorn the temples of pagans, but which can neither receive
+    nor bestow favours, we shall suppose that the imagination of some
+    potential advantages is quite equivalent to the reality of their
+    operation. Krusenstern has some sensible remarks on the proper method
+    of supplying Kamtschatka with well-qualified physicians, but they are
+    of course foreign to this place, and cannot, therefore, properly be
+    introduced.--E.
+
+[22] This bird, which is somewhat larger than the common gull, pursues the
+    latter kind whenever it meets them; the gull, after flying for some
+    time, with loud screams, and evident marks of great terror, drops its
+    dung, which its pursuer immediately darts at, and catches before it
+    falls into the sea.
+
+[23] The distance betwixt the two remarkable points now specified, it will
+    be proper for the reader to remember, is estimated at 13 leagues, or
+    about 40 miles, being the nearest approach of the two continents of
+    Asia and America yet ascertained.--E.
+
+[24] Captain Cook then must still be allowed to have succeeded in getting
+    farther towards the north in this ocean, than any other navigator.
+    For, from the date of this voyage up to the present period, so far at
+    least as has been published, no one has surpassed the limit of his
+    examination. But it is obvious, from the very circumstance of the
+    difference betwixt the two attempts recorded in this voyage, that a
+    considerable variation in the state and intensity of the obstructing
+    cause may occur in various years. There is a probability then, that a
+    still greater difference might be experienced, affording a practicable
+    opportunity of getting still more towards the north than in either of
+    them. How far this probability, not a great one, as Captain King
+    afterwards suggests, ought to be considered, or how far the
+    expectation of any benefit arising from it, ought to influence in
+    directing another similar undertaking, it is not the province of this
+    work to speculate. But one cannot help remarking, that the Russian
+    government at least, might not be injudiciously employed in ordering
+    one or more vessels, properly fitted up, to be kept in readiness at
+    some port in this distant region of the empire, to take advantage of
+    any season more suitable than another, for prosecuting the enterprise.
+    Nay, is it not far from being romantic to imagine, that the two
+    friendly powers of Russia and Great Britain might actually find a
+    reward, in the promotion of their mutual interest, by a joint and
+    well-concerted plan for opening up a communication by any means
+    betwixt the North Pacific and North Atlantic Oceans? Both of them, one
+    should suppose, must be sensible, that the zeal of their intermediate
+    neighbour (if the expression may be used) the Americans, to discover
+    the practicability of a connexion, and of course to establish one
+    betwixt the opposite sides of the new continent, is not likely to
+    prove altogether fruitless, though perhaps there are still more
+    formidable difficulties in the way of its exercise. A little time will
+    probably demonstrate, that these politic republicans have not in vain
+    emulated the enterprising spirit, or commercial sagacity of the parent
+    state; and that neither of the other governments just now mentioned,
+    has fully profited of all the advantages which its possessions have
+    continued to hold out.--E.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION IV.
+
+
+Fruitless Attempts to penetrate through the Ice to the North-West.--
+Dangerous Situation of the Discovery.--Sea-horses killed.--Fresh
+Obstructions from the Ice.--Report of Damages received by the Discovery.--
+Captain Clerke's Determination to proceed to the Southward.--Joy of the
+Ships' Crews on that Occasion.--Pass Serdze Kamen.--Return through
+Beering's Strait.--Enquiry into the Extent of the North-East Coast of
+Asia.--Reasons for rejecting Muller's Map of the Promontory of the
+Tschutski.--Reasons for believing the Coast does not reach a higher
+Latitude than 70-1/2 deg. North.--General Observations on the Impracticability
+of a North-East or North-West Passage from the Atlantic into the Pacific
+Ocean.--Comparative View of the Progress made in the Years 1778 and
+1779.--Remarks on the Sea and Sea-coasts, North of Beering's
+Strait.--History of the Voyage resumed.--Pass the Island of St
+Laurence.--The Island of Mednoi.--Death of Captain Clerke.--Short Account
+of his Services.
+
+
+Captain Clerke having determined, for the reasons assigned, to give up all
+farther attempts on the coast of America, and to make his last efforts in
+search of a passage on the coast of the opposite continent, we continued
+during the afternoon of the 21st of July, to steer to the W.N.W., through
+much loose ice. At ten at night, discovering the main body of it through
+the fog, right ahead, and almost close to us, and being unwilling to take a
+southerly course so long as we could possibly avoid it, we hauled our wind,
+which was easterly, and stood to the northward; but in an hour after, the
+weather clearing up, and finding ourselves surrounded by a compact field of
+ice on every side, except to the S.S.W., we tacked and stood on in that
+direction, in order to get clear of it.
+
+At noon of the 22d, our latitude, by observation, was 69 deg. 30', and
+longitude 187 deg. 30'. In the afternoon we again came up with the ice, which
+extended to the N.W. and S.W., and obliged us to continue our course to the
+southward, in order to weather it.
+
+It may be remarked, that, since the 8th of this month, we had twice
+traversed this sea, in lines nearly parallel with the run we had just now
+made; that in the first of those traverses we were not able to penetrate so
+far north, by eight or ten leagues, as in the second; and that in the last
+we had again found an united body of ice, generally about five leagues to
+the southward of its position in the preceding run. As this proves that the
+large compact fields of ice, which we saw, were moveable, or diminishing,
+at the same time, it does not leave any well-founded expectations of
+advancing much farther in the most favourable seasons.
+
+At seven in the evening, the weather being hazy, and no ice in sight, we
+bore away to the westward; but at half past eight the fog dispersing, we
+found ourselves in the midst of loose ice, and close in with the main body;
+we therefore stood upon a wind, which was still easterly, and kept beating
+to windward during the night, in hopes of weathering the loose pieces,
+which the freshness of the wind kept driving down upon us in such
+quantities, that we were in manifest danger of being blocked up by them.
+
+In the morning of the 23d, the clear water, in which we continued to stand
+to and fro, did not exceed a mile and a half, and was every instant
+lessening. At length, after using our utmost endeavours to clear the loose
+ice, we were driven to the necessity of forcing the passage to the
+southward, which at half past seven we accomplished, but not without
+subjecting the ship to some very severe shocks. The Discovery was less
+successful. For at eleven, when they had nigh got clear out, she became so
+entangled by several large pieces, that her way was stopped, and
+immediately dropping bodily to leeward, she fell broadside foremost, on the
+edge of a considerable body of ice; and having at the same time an open sea
+to windward, the surf caused her to strike violently upon it. This mass at
+length either so far broke, or moved, as to set them at liberty to make
+another trial to escape; but unfortunately before the ship gathered way
+enough to be under command, she again fell to leeward on another fragment;
+and the swell making it unsafe to lie to windward, and finding no chance of
+getting clear, they pushed into a small opening, furled their sails, and
+made fast with ice-hooks.
+
+In this dangerous situation we saw them at noon, about three miles from us,
+bearing N.W., a fresh gale from the S.E. driving more ice to the N.W., and
+increasing the body that lay between us. Our latitude, by account, was 69 deg.
+8', the longitude 187 deg. and the depth of water twenty-eight fathoms. To add
+to the gloomy apprehensions which began to force themselves on us, at half
+past four in the afternoon, the weather becoming thick and hazy, we lost
+sight of the Discovery; but that we might be in a situation to afford her
+every assistance in our power, we kept standing on close by the edge of the
+ice. At six, the wind happily coming round to the north, gave us some hopes
+that the ice might drift away and release her; and in that case, as it was
+uncertain in what condition she might come out, We kept firing a gun every
+half hour, in order to prevent a separation. Our apprehensions for her
+safety did not cease till nine, when we heard her guns in answer to ours;
+and soon after being hailed by her, were informed that upon the change of
+wind the ice began to separate; and that setting all their sails, they
+forced a passage through it. We learned farther, that whilst they were
+encompassed by it, they found the ship drift with the main body to the
+N.E., at the rate of half a mile an hour. We were sorry to find that the
+Discovery had rubbed off a great deal of the sheathing from her bows, and
+was become very leaky, from the strokes she had received when she fell upon
+the edge of the ice.
+
+On the 24th we had fresh breezes from the S.W., with hazy weather, and kept
+running to the S.E. till eleven in the forenoon, when a large body of loose
+ice, extending from N.N.E. round by the E., to S.S.E., and to which (though
+the weather was tolerably clear) we could see no end, again obstructed our
+course. We therefore kept working to windward, and at noon our latitude, by
+observation, was 68 deg. 53', longitude 188 deg.; the variation of the compass 22 deg.
+30' E. At four in the afternoon it became calm, and we hoisted out the
+boats in pursuit of the sea-horses, which were in prodigious herds on every
+side of us. We killed ten of them, which were as many as we could make use
+of for eating, or for converting into lamp-oil. We kept on with the wind
+from the S.W., along the edge of the ice, which extended in a direction
+almost due E. and W., till four in the morning of the 25th, when observing
+a clear sea beyond it to the S.E., we made sail that way, with a view of
+forcing through it. By six we had cleared it, and continued the remainder
+of the day running to the S.E., without any ice in sight. At noon, our
+latitude, by observation, was 68 deg. 38', longitude 189 deg. 9', and the depth of
+water thirty fathoms. At midnight we tacked and stood to the westward, with
+a fresh gale from the S.; and at ten in the forenoon, of the 26th, the ice
+again shewed itself, extending from N.W. to S. It appeared loose, and
+drifting by the force of the wind to the northward. At noon, our latitude,
+by observation, was 68 deg. N., longitude 188 deg. 10' E.; and we had soundings
+with twenty-eight fathoms. For the remaining part of the day, and till noon
+of the 27th, we kept standing backward and forward, in order to clear
+ourselves of different bodies of ice. At noon we were in latitude, by
+observation, 67 deg. 47', longitude 188 deg.. At two in the afternoon, we saw the
+continent to the S. by E.; and at four, having run since noon with a S.S.E.
+wind to the S.W., we were surrounded by loose masses of ice, with the firm
+body of it in sight, stretching in a N. by W. and a S. by E. direction, as
+far as the eye could reach; beyond which we saw the coast of Asia, bearing
+S. and S. by E.
+
+As it was now necessary to come to some determination with respect to the
+course we were next to steer, Captain Clerke sent a boat, with the
+carpenters, on board the Discovery, to enquire into the particulars of the
+damage she had sustained. They returned in the evening, with the report of
+Captain Gore, and of the carpenters of both ships, that the damages they
+had received were of a kind that would require three weeks to repair; and
+that it would be necessary, for that purpose, to go into some port.
+
+Thus, finding a farther advance to the northward, as well as a nearer
+approach to either continent, obstructed by a sea blocked up with ice, we
+judged it both injurious to the service, by endangering the safety of the
+ships, as well as fruitless, with respect to the design of our voyage, to
+make any farther attempts toward a passage. This, therefore, added to the
+representations of Captain Gore, determined Captain Clerke not to lose more
+time in what he concluded to be an unattainable object, but to sail for
+Awatska Bay, to repair our damages there; and before the winter should set
+in, and render all other efforts toward discovery impracticable, to explore
+the coast of Japan.
+
+I will not endeavour to conceal the joy that brightened the countenance of
+every individual, as soon as Captain Clerke's resolutions were made known.
+We were all heartily sick of a navigation full of danger, and in which the
+utmost perseverance had not been repaid with the smallest probability of
+success. We therefore turned our faces toward home, after an absence of
+three years, with a delight and satisfaction, which, notwithstanding the
+tedious voyage we had still to make, and the immense distance we had to
+run, were as freely entertained, and perhaps as fully enjoyed, as if we had
+been already in sight of the Land's-end.
+
+On the 28th, we kept working to windward with a fresh breeze from the S.E.,
+having the coast of Asia still in sight. At four in the morning, the cape,
+which, on the authority of Muller, we have called Serdze Kamen, bore
+S.S.W., distant six or seven leagues. We saw in different places, upon the
+tops of the hills, which rise inland on both sides of the cape,
+protuberances of a considerable height, which had the appearance of huge
+rocks, or pillars of stone.
+
+On the 29th, the wind still continuing contrary, we made but slow progress
+to the southward. At midnight we had thick foggy weather, accompanied with
+a breeze from the N.N.W., with which we directed our course to the S.S.E.
+through the strait, and had no land in sight till seven in the evening of
+the 30th, when the fog clearing away, we saw Cape Prince of Wales bearing
+S. by E., distant about six leagues; and the island St Diomede, S.W. by W.
+We now altered our course to the W., and at eight made the east cape, which
+at midnight bore W. by N., distant four leagues. In the night we steered to
+the S.S.W., with a fresh west-north-westerly breeze; and at four in the
+morning of the 31st, the east cape bore N.N.E.; and the N.E. part of the
+bay of St Laurence (where we anchored the last year) W. by S., its distance
+being four leagues. As we could not have worked up to windward without a
+greater waste of time than the object appeared to deserve, we ran across
+the bay, regretting much, as we passed along, the loss of this opportunity
+of paying a second visit to the Tschutski. At noon, our latitude, by
+observation, was 65 deg. 6', and longitude 189 deg.. The south point of the bay of
+St Laurence bore N. by W. 1/4 W., and was distant seven or eight leagues.
+In the afternoon, the variation was found to be 22 deg. 50' E.
+
+Having now passed Beering's Strait, and taken our final leave of the N.E.
+coast of Asia, it may not be improper, on this occasion, to state the
+grounds on which we have ventured to adopt two general conclusions
+respecting its extent, in opposition to the opinions of Mr Muller. The
+first, that the promontory named East Cape, is actually the easternmost
+point of that quarter of the globe; or, in other words, that no part of the
+continent extends in longitude beyond 190 deg. 22' E.; the second, that the
+latitude of the north-easternmost extremity falls to the southward of 70 deg.
+N. With respect to the former, if such land exist, it must necessarily be
+to the N. of latitude 69 deg., where the discoveries made in the present voyage
+terminate; and, therefore, the probable direction of the coast, beyond this
+point, is the question I shall endeavour, in the first place, to
+investigate.
+
+As the Russian is the only nation that has hitherto navigated these seas,
+all our information respecting the situation of the coast to the northward
+of Cape North, must necessarily be derived from the charts and journals of
+the persons who have been employed at various times in ascertaining the
+limits of that empire; and these are for the most part so imperfect, so
+confused, and contradictory, that it is not easy to form any distinct idea
+of their pretended, much less to collect the amount of their real
+discoveries. It is on this account, that the extent and form of the
+peninsula, inhabited by the Tschutski, still remains a point on which the
+Russian geographers are much divided. Mr Muller, in his map, published in
+the year 1754, supposes this country to extend toward the N.E., to the 75 deg.
+of latitude, and in longitude 190 deg. E. of Greenwich, and to terminate in a
+round cape, which he calls Tschukotskoi Noss. To the southward of this cape
+he conceives the coast to form a bay to the westward, bounded in latitude
+67 deg. 18', by Serdze Kamen, the northernmost point seen by Beering in his
+expedition in the year 1728. The map published by the academy of St
+Petersburgh, in the year 1776, gives the whole peninsula entirely a new
+form, placing its north-easternmost extremity in the latitude of 73 deg.,
+longitude 178 deg. 30'. The easternmost point in latitude 65 deg. 30', longitude
+189 deg. 30'. All the other maps we saw, both printed and in manuscript, vary
+between these two, apparently more according to the fancy of the compiler,
+than on any grounds of more accurate information. The only point in which
+there is a general coincidence, without any considerable variation, is in
+the position of the east cape in latitude 66 deg.. The form of the coast, both
+to the S. and N. of this cape, in the map of the academy, is exceedingly
+erroneous, and may be totally disregarded. In that of Mr Muller, the coast
+to the northward bears a considerable resemblance to our survey, as far as
+the latter extends, except that it does not trend sufficiently to the
+westward, receding only about 5 deg. of longitude, between the latitude of 66 deg.
+and 69 deg.; whereas in reality it recedes near ten. Between the latitude of
+69 deg. and 74 deg., he makes the coast bend round to the N. and N.E., and to form
+a considerable promontory. On what authority now remains to be examined.
+
+Mr Coxe, whose accurate researches into this subject give his opinion great
+weight, is persuaded that the extremity of the Noss in question was never
+passed but by Deshneff and his party, who sailed from the river Kovyma in
+the year 1648, and are supposed to have got round it into the Anadir. As
+the account of this expedition, the substance of which the reader will find
+in Mr Coxe's Account of Russian Discoveries, contains no geographical
+delineation of the coast along which they sailed, its position must be
+conjectured from incidental circumstances; and from these it appears very
+manifest, that the Tschukotskoi Noss of Deshneff is no other than the
+promontory called by Captain Cook the East Cape. Speaking of the Noss, he
+says, "One might sail from the isthmus to the river Anadir, with a fair
+wind, in three days and three nights." This exactly coincides with the
+situation of the East Cape, which is about one hundred and twenty leagues
+from the mouth of the Anadir; and as there is no other isthmus to the
+northward between that and the latitude of 69 deg., it is obvious that, by this
+description, he must intend either the cape in question, or some other to
+the southward of it. In another place he says, "Over against the isthmus
+there are two islands in the sea, upon which were seen people of the
+Tschutski nation, through whose lips were run pieces of the teeth of the
+sea-horse." This again perfectly agrees with the two islands situated to
+the S.E. of the East Cape. We saw indeed no inhabitants on them, but it is
+not at all improbable that a party of the Americans from the opposite
+continent, whom this description accurately suits, might, at that time,
+have been accidentally there; and whom it was natural enough for him to
+mistake for a tribe of the Tschutski.[25]
+
+These two circumstances are of so striking and unequivocal a nature, that
+they appear to me conclusive on the point of the Tschukotskoi Noss,
+notwithstanding there are others of a more doubtful kind, which we have
+from the same authority, and which now remain to be considered. "To go,"
+says Deshneff in another account, "from the Kovyma to the Anadir, a great
+promontory must be doubled, which stretches very far into the sea;" and
+afterwards, "this promontory stretches between N. and N.E." It was probably
+from the expressions contained in these passages, that Mr Muller was
+induced to give the country of the Tschutski the form we find in his map;
+but had he been acquainted with the situation of the east cape, as
+ascertained by Captain Cook, and the remarkable coincidence between it and
+this promontory or isthmus, (for it must be observed, that Deshneff appears
+to be all along speaking of the same thing), in the circumstances already
+mentioned, I am confident he would not have thought those expressions,
+merely by themselves, of sufficient weight to warrant him in extending the
+north-eastern extremity of Asia, either so far to the north or to the
+eastward. For, after all, these expressions are not irreconcilable with the
+opinion we have adopted, if we suppose Deshneff to have taken these
+bearings from the small bight which lies to the westward of the cape.
+
+The deposition of the Cossack Popoff, taken at the Anadirskoi ostrog; in
+the year 1711, seems to have been the next authority on which Mr Muller has
+proceeded; and beside these two, I am not acquainted with any other. This
+Cossack, together with several others, was sent by land to demand tribute
+from the independent Tschutski tribes, who lived about the Noss. The first
+circumstance in the account of this journey that can lead to the situation
+of Tschukotskoi Noss, is its distance from Anadirsk; and this is stated to
+be ten weeks' journey with loaded rein-deer; on which account, it is added,
+their day's journey was but very small. It is impossible to conclude much
+from so vague an account; but, as the distance between the east cape and
+the ostrog is upward of two hundred leagues in a straight line, and
+therefore may be supposed to allow twelve or fifteen miles a day, its
+situation cannot be reckoned incompatible with Popoff's calculation. The
+next circumstance mentioned in this deposition is, that their route lay by
+the foot of a rock called Matkol, situated at the bottom of a great gulf.
+This gulf Muller supposes to be the bay he had laid down between latitude
+66 deg. and 72 deg.; and accordingly places the rock Matkol in the centre of it;
+but it appears equally probable, even if we had not so many reasons to
+doubt the existence of that bay, that it might be some part of the gulf of
+Anadir, which they would undoubtedly touch upon in their road from the
+ostrog to the east cape.
+
+But what seems to put this matter beyond all dispute, and to prove that the
+cape visited by Popoff cannot be to the northward of 69 deg. latitude, is, that
+part of his deposition, which I have already quoted, relative to the island
+lying off the Noss, from whence the opposite continent might be seen. For
+as the two continents in latitude 69 deg., have diverged so far as to be more
+than three hundred miles distant, it is highly improbable that the Asiatic
+coast should again trend in such a manner to the eastward, as to come
+nearly within sight of the coast of America.
+
+If these arguments should be deemed conclusive against the existence of the
+peninsula of the Tschutski, as laid down by Muller, it will follow that the
+east cape is the Tschukotskoi Noss of the[26] more early Russian
+navigators; and, consequently, that the undescribed coast from the latitude
+of 69 deg. to the mouth of the river Kovyma, must uniformly trend more or less
+to the westward. As an additional proof of this, it may be remarked, that
+the Tschukotskoi Noss is always represented as dividing the sea of Kovyma
+from that of Anadir, which could not be the case, if any considerable cape
+had projected to the N.E. in the higher latitudes. Thus, in the depositions
+taken at Anadirsk, it is related, "that opposite the Noss, on both sides,
+as well in the sea of Kovyma, as in that of Anadir, an island is said to be
+seen at a great distance, which the Tschutski call a large country; and say
+that people dwell there who have large teeth put in their mouths that
+project through their cheeks." Then follows a description of these people
+and their country, exactly corresponding with our accounts of the opposite
+continent.
+
+The last question that arises is, to what degree of northern latitude this
+coast extends, before it trends more directly to the westward. If the
+situation of the mouth of the Kovyma, both with respect to its latitude and
+longitude, were accurately determined, it would perhaps not be very
+difficult to form a probable conjecture upon this point. Captain Cook was
+always strongly of opinion that the northern coast of Asia, from the
+Indigirka eastward, has hitherto been generally laid down more than two
+degrees to the northward of its true position; and he has, therefore, on
+the authority of a map that was in his possession, and on the information
+he received at Oonalashka, placed the mouth of the river Kovyma, in his
+chart of the N.W. coast of America, and the N.E. coast of Asia, in the
+latitude of 68 deg.. Should he be right in this conjecture, it is probable, for
+the reasons that have been already stated, that the Asiatic coast does not
+any where exceed 70 deg., before it trends to the westward; and consequently,
+that we were within 1 deg. of its north-eastern extremity. For, if the
+continent be supposed to stretch any where to the northward of Shelatskoi
+Noss, it is scarcely possible that so extraordinary a circumstance should
+not have been mentioned by the Russian navigators; and we have already
+shewn that they make mention of no remarkable promontory between the Kovyma
+and the Anadir, except the east cape. Another circumstance, related by
+Deshneff, may, perhaps, be thought a further confirmation of this opinion,
+namely, that he met with no impediment from ice in navigating round the
+N.E. extremity of Asia; though, he adds, that this sea is not always so
+free from it, as indeed is manifest from the failure of his first
+expedition, and since that, from the unsuccessful attempts of Shalauroff,
+and the obstacles we met with, in two different years, in our present
+voyage.[27]
+
+The continent left undetermined in our chart between Cape North, and the
+mouth of the Kovyma is, in longitudinal extent, one hundred and twenty-five
+leagues. One-third, or about forty leagues, of this distance, from the
+Kovyma eastward, was explored in the year 1723, by a _sinbo-jarskoi_ of
+Jakutz, whose name was Feodor Amossoff, by whom Mr Muller was informed,
+that its direction was to the eastward. It is said to have been since
+accurately surveyed by Shalauroff, whose chart makes it trend to the N.E.
+by E., as far as the Shelatskoi Noss, which he places about forty-three
+leagues to the eastward of the Kovyma. The space between this Noss and Cape
+North, about eighty-two leagues, is therefore the only part of the Russian
+empire that now remains unascertained.
+
+But if the river Kovyma be erroneously situated with respect to its
+longitude, as well as in its latitude, a supposition for which probable
+grounds are not wanting, the extent of the unexplored coast will become
+proportionably diminished. The reasons which incline me to believe that the
+mouth of this river is placed in the Russian charts much too far to the
+westward, are as follow: First, because the accounts that are given of the
+navigation of the Frozen Sea from that river, round the N.E. point of Asia
+to the gulf of Anadir, do not accord with the supposed distance between
+those places. Secondly, because the distance over land from the Kovyma to
+the Anadir is represented by the early Russian travellers as a journey
+easily performed, and of no very extraordinary length. Thirdly, because the
+coast from the Shelatskoi Noss of Shalauroff[28] seems to trend directly
+S.E. to the East Cape. If this be so, it will follow, that as we were
+probably not more than 1 deg. to the southward of Shelatskoi Noss, only sixty
+miles of the Asiatic coast remain unascertained.[29]
+
+Had Captain Cook lived to this period of our voyage, and experienced, in a
+second attempt, the impracticability of a N.E. or N.W. passage from the
+Pacific to the Atlantic Ocean, he would doubtless have laid before the
+public, in one connected view, an account of the obstacles which defeated
+this, the primary object of our expedition, together with his observations
+on a subject of such magnitude, and which had engaged the attention and
+divided the opinions of philosophers and navigators for upward of two
+hundred years. I am very sensible how unequal I am to the task of supplying
+this deficiency; but that the expectations of the reader may not be wholly
+disappointed, I must beg his candid acceptance of the following
+observations, as well as of those I have already ventured to offer him,
+relative to the extent of the N.E. coast of Asia.
+
+The evidence that has been so fully and judiciously stated in the
+introduction, amounts to the highest degree of probability that a N.W.
+passage from the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean, cannot exist to the
+southward of 65 deg. of latitude. If then there exist a passage, it must be
+either through Baffin's Bay, or round by the north of Greenland, in the
+western hemisphere, or else through the Frozen Ocean, to the northward of
+Siberia, in the eastern; and on whichever side it lies, the navigator must
+necessarily pass through Beering's Strait. The impracticability of
+penetrating into the Atlantic on either side, through the strait, is
+therefore all that remains to be submitted to the consideration of the
+public.
+
+As far as our experience went, it appears, that the sea to the north of
+Beering's Strait is clearer of ice in August than in July, and perhaps in a
+part of September it may be still more free. But after the equinox the days
+shorten so fast, that no farther thaw can be expected; and we cannot
+rationally allow so great an effect to the warm weather in the first half
+of September, as to imagine it capable of dispersing the ice from the most
+northern parts of the American coast. But admitting this to be possible, it
+must at least be granted, that it would be madness to attempt to run from
+the Icy Cape to the known parts of Baffin's Bay, (a distance of four
+hundred and twenty leagues), in so short a time as that passage can be
+supposed to continue open.[30]
+
+Upon the Asiatic side, there appears still less probability of success,
+both from what came to our own knowledge, with respect to the state of the
+sea to the southward of Cape North, and also from what we learn from the
+experience of the[31] lieutenants under Beering's direction, and the
+journal of Shalauroff, in regard to that on the north of Siberia.
+
+The voyage of Deshneff, if its truth be admitted, proves undoubtedly the
+possibility of passing round the N.E. point of Asia; but when the reader
+reflects that near a century and a half has elapsed since the time of that
+navigator, during which, in an age of great curiosity and enterprize, no
+man has yet been able to follow him, he will not entertain very sanguine
+expectations of the public advantages that can be derived from it. But let
+us even suppose, that in some singularly favourable season a ship has found
+a clear passage round the coast of Siberia, and is safely arrived at the
+mouth of the Lena, still there remains the Cape of Taimura, stretching to
+the 78 deg. of latitude, which the good fortune of no single voyager has
+hitherto doubled.
+
+It is, however, contended, that there are strong reasons for believing that
+the sea is more free from ice the nearer we approach to the Pole; and that
+all the ice we saw in the lower latitudes was formed in the great rivers of
+Siberia and America, the breaking up of which had filled the intermediate
+sea. But even if that supposition be true, it is equally so, that there can
+be no access to those open seas, unless this great mass of ice is so far
+dissolved in the summer as to admit of a ship's getting through it. If this
+be the fact, we have taken a wrong time of the year for attempting to find
+this passage, which should have been explored in April and May, before the
+rivers were broken up. But how many reasons may be given against such a
+supposition? Our experience at Saint Peter and Saint Paul enabled us to
+judge what might be expected farther north; and upon that ground we had
+reason to doubt whether the continents might not in winter be even joined
+by the ice; and this agreed with the stories we heard in Kamtschatka, that
+on the Siberian coast they go out from the shore in winter upon the ice to
+greater distances than the breadth of the sea is in some parts from one
+continent to the other.
+
+In the depositions referred to above, the following remarkable circumstance
+is related. Speaking of the land seen from the Tschukotskoi Noss, it is
+said, "that in summer time they sail in one day to the land in baidares, a
+sort of vessel constructed of whale-bone, and covered with seal-skins; and
+in winter time, going swift with rein-deer, the journey may be likewise
+made in one day." A sufficient proof that the two countries were usually
+joined together by the ice.
+
+The account given by Mr Muller of one of the expeditions undertaken to
+discover a supposed island in the Frozen Sea, is still more remarkable. "In
+the year 1714, a new expedition was prepared from Jakutzk, for the same
+place, under the command of Alexei Markoff, who was to sail from the mouth
+of the Jana; and if the _Schitiki_ were not fit for sea-voyages, he was to
+construct, at a proper place, vessels fit for prosecuting the discoveries
+without danger.
+
+"On his arrival at Ust-janskoe Simovie, the port at which he was to embark,
+he sent an account, dated February 2, 1715, to the Chancery of Jakutzk,
+mentioning that it was impossible to navigate the sea, as it was
+continually frozen both in summer and winter; and that consequently the
+intended expedition was no otherwise to be carried on but with sledges
+drawn by dogs. In this manner he accordingly set out, with nine persons, on
+the 10th of March the same year, and returned on the 3d of April, to Ust-
+janskoe Simovie. The account of his journey is as follows: That he went
+seven days as fast as his dogs could draw him, (which, in good ways and
+weather, is eighty or a hundred wersts in a day) directly towards the
+north, upon the ice, without discovering any island; that it had not been
+possible for him to proceed any farther, the ice rising there in the sea
+like mountains; that he had climbed to the top of some of them, whence he
+was able to see to a great distance round about him, but could discern no
+appearance of land; and that at last wanting food for his dogs, many of
+them died, which obliged him to return."
+
+Besides these arguments, which proceed upon an admission of the hypothesis,
+that the ice in those seas comes from the rivers, there are others which
+give great room to suspect the truth of the hypothesis itself. Captain
+Cook, whose opinion respecting the formation of ice had formerly coincided
+with that of the theorists we are now controverting, found abundant reason,
+in the present voyage, for changing his sentiments. We found the coast of
+each continent to be low, the soundings gradually decreasing toward them,
+and a striking resemblance between the two; which, together with the
+description Mr Hearne gives of the copper-mine river, afford reason to
+conjecture, that whatever rivers may empty themselves into the Frozen Sea,
+from the American continent, are of the same nature with those on the
+Asiatic side, which are represented to be so shallow at the entrance, as to
+admit only small vessels; whereas the ice we have seen rises above the
+level of the sea to a height equal to the depth of those rivers, so that
+its entire height must be at least ten times greater.
+
+The curious reader will also, in this place, be led naturally to reflect on
+another circumstance, which appears very incompatible with the opinion of
+those who imagine land to be necessary for the formation of ice; I mean the
+different state of the sea about Spitsbergen, and to the north of Beering's
+Strait. It is incumbent on them to explain how it comes to pass, that in
+the former quarter, and in the vicinity of much known land, the navigator
+annually penetrates to near 80 deg. N. latitude; whereas, on the other side,
+his utmost efforts have not been able to carry him beyond 71 deg.; where,
+moreover, the continents diverge nearly E. and W., and where there is no
+land yet known to exist near the Pole. For the farther satisfaction of the
+reader on this point, I shall beg leave to refer him to _Observations made
+during a Voyage round the World_, by Dr Forster, where he will find the
+question of the formation of ice fully and satisfactorily discussed, and
+the probability of open polar seas disproved by a variety of powerful
+arguments.[32]
+
+I shall conclude these remarks with a short comparative view of the
+progress we made to the northward, at the two different seasons we were
+engaged in that pursuit, together with a few general observations relative
+to the sea, and the coasts of the two continents, which lie to the north of
+Beering's Strait.
+
+It may be observed, that in the year 1778 we did not meet with the ice till
+we advanced to the latitude of 70 deg., on August 17th, and that then we found
+it in compact bodies, extending as far as the eye could reach, and of which
+a part or the whole was moveable, since, by its drifting down, upon us, we
+narrowly escaped being hemmed in between it and the land. After
+experiencing both how fruitless and dangerous it would be to attempt to
+penetrate farther north, between the ice and the land, we stood over toward
+the Asiatic side, between the latitude 69 deg. and 70 deg., frequently encountering
+in this tract large and extensive fields of ice; and though, by reason, of
+the fogs and thickness of the weather, we were not able absolutely and
+entirely to trace a connected line of it across, yet we were sure to meet
+with it before we reached the latitude of 70 deg., whenever we attempted to
+stand to the northward. On the 26th of August, in latitude 69-3/4 deg., and
+longitude 184 deg., we were obstructed by it in such quantities, as made it
+impossible for us to pass either to the north or west, and obliged us to
+run along the edge of it to the S.S.W., till we saw land, which we
+afterward found to be the coast of Asia. With the season thus far advanced,
+the weather setting in with snow and sleet, and other signs of approaching
+winter, we abandoned our enterprize for that time.
+
+In this second attempt we could do little more than confirm the
+observations we had made in the first; for we were never able to approach
+the continent of Asia higher than the latitude 67 deg., nor that of America in
+any parts, excepting a few leagues between the latitude of 68 deg. and 68 deg. 20',
+that were not seen the last year. We were now obstructed by ice 3 deg. lower,
+and our endeavours to push farther to the northward were principally
+confined to the mid-space between the two coasts. We penetrated near 3 deg.
+farther on the American side than on the Asiatic, meeting with the ice both
+years sooner, and in greater quantities on the latter coast. As we advanced
+N., we still found the ice more compact and solid; yet, as in our different
+traverses from side to side, we passed over spaces which had, before been
+covered with it, we conjectured that most of what we saw was moveable. Its
+height, on a medium, we took to be from eight to ten feet, and that of the
+highest to have been sixteen or eighteen. We again tried the currents
+twice, and found them unequal, but never to exceed one mile an hour. By
+comparing the reckoning with the observations, we also found the current to
+set different ways, yet more from the S.W. than any other quarter; but
+whatever their direction might be, their effect was so trifling, that no
+conclusions respecting the existence of any passage to the northward could
+be drawn from them. We found the month of July to be infinitely colder than
+that of August. The thermometer in July was once at 28 deg., and very commonly
+at 30 deg.; whereas the last year, in August, it was very rare to have it so
+low as the freezing point. In both seasons we had some high winds, all of
+which came from the S.W. We were subject to fogs whenever the wind was
+moderate, from whatever quarter, but they attended southerly winds more
+constantly than contrary ones.[33]
+
+The straits between the two continents, at their nearest approach in
+latitude 66 deg., were ascertained to be thirteen leagues, beyond which they
+diverge to N.E. by E. and W.N.W.; and in latitude 69 deg., they become 14 deg. of
+longitude, or about one hundred leagues asunder. A great similarity is
+observable in the appearance of the two countries, to the northward of the
+straits. Both are destitute of wood. The shores are low, with mountains
+rising to a great height farther up the country. The depth of water in the
+mid-way between them was twenty-nine and thirty fathoms, decreasing
+gradually as we approached either continent, with the difference of being
+somewhat shoaler on the American than on the Asiatic coast, at the same
+distance from land. The bottom in the middle was a soft slimy mud, and on
+drawing near to either shore, a brown sand, intermixed with small fragments
+of bones, and a few shells. We observed but little tide or current; what
+there was came from the westward.
+
+But it is now time to resume the narrative of our voyage, which was broken
+off on the 31st of July, on which day at noon we had advanced eighteen
+leagues to the southward of the East Cape.
+
+We had light airs from the S.W., till noon of the 1st of August, at which
+time our latitude, by observation, was 64 deg. 23', longitude 189 deg. 15'; the
+coast of Asia extended from N.W. by W. to W. 1/2 S, distant about twelve
+leagues; and the land to the eastward of St Laurence bore S. 1/2 W. On the
+2d, the weather becoming clear, we saw the same land at noon, bearing from
+W.S.W. 1/2 W. to S.E., making in a number of high hummocks, which had the
+appearance of separate islands; the latitude, by observation, was 64 deg. 3',
+longitude 189 deg. 28', and depth of water seventeen fathoms. We did not
+approach this land sufficiently near to determine whether it was one
+island, or composed to a cluster together. Its westernmost part we passed
+July 3d, in the evening, and then supposed to be the island of St Laurence;
+the easternmost we ran close by in September last year, and this we named
+Clerke's Island, and found it to consist of a number of high cliffs, joined
+together by very low land. Though we mistook the last year those cliffs for
+separate islands, till we approached very near the shore, I should still
+conjecture that the island Saint Laurence was distinct from Clerke's
+Island, since there appeared a considerable space between them, where we
+could not perceive the smallest rising of ground.[34] In the afternoon we
+also saw what bore the appearance of a small island to the N.E. of the land
+which was seen at noon, and which, from the haziness of the weather, we had
+only sight of once. We estimated its distance to be nineteen leagues from
+the island of St Laurence, in a N.E. by E. 1/2 E. direction. On the 3d, we
+had light variable winds, and directed our course round the N.W. point of
+the island of Saint Laurence. On the 4th, at noon, our latitude by account
+was 64 deg. 8', longitude 188 deg.; the island Saint Laurence bearing S. 1/4 E.,
+distant seven leagues. In the afternoon, a fresh breeze springing up from
+the E., we steered to the S.S.W., and soon lost sight of Saint Laurence. On
+the 7th, at noon, the latitude by observation was 59 deg. 38', longitude 183 deg..
+In the afternoon it fell calm, and we got a great number of cod in seventy-
+eight fathoms of water. The variation was found to be 19 deg. E. From this time
+to the 17th, we were making the best of our way to the S., without any
+occurrence worth remarking, except that the wind coming from the western
+quarter, forced us farther to the eastward than we wished, as it was our
+intention to make Beering's Island.
+
+On the 17th, at half-past four in the morning, we saw land to the N.W.,
+which we could not approach, the wind blowing from that quarter. At noon,
+the latitude by observation was 53 deg. 49', longitude 168 deg. 5', and variation
+10 deg. E. The land in sight bore N. by W. twelve or fourteen leagues distant.
+This land we take to be the island Mednoi, laid down in the Russian charts
+to the S.E. of Beering's Island. It is high land, and appeared clear of
+snow. We place it in the latitude 54 deg. 28', longitude 167 deg. 52'. We got no
+soundings with one hundred and fifty fathoms of line.
+
+Captain Clerke was now no longer able to get out of his bed; he therefore
+desired that the officers would receive their orders from me, and directed
+that we should proceed with all speed to Awatska Bay. The wind continuing
+westerly, we stood on to the S., till early on the morning of the 19th,
+when, after a few hours rain, it blew from the eastward, and freshened to a
+strong gale. We accordingly made the most of it whilst it lasted, by
+standing to the westward under all the sail we could carry. On the 20th,
+the wind shifting to the S.W., our course was to the W.N.W. At noon, the
+latitude by observation was 53 deg. 7', longitude 162 deg. 49'. On the 21st, at
+half-past five in the morning, we saw a very high peaked mountain on the
+coast of Kamtschatka, called Cheepoonskoi Mountain, from its lying behind
+the Noss, bearing N.W. by N., twenty-five or thirty leagues distant. At
+noon, the coast extended from N. by E. to W., with a very great haziness
+upon it, and distant about twelve leagues. We had light airs the remaining
+part of this and the following day, and got no soundings with one hundred
+and forty fathoms of line.
+
+On the 22d of August, 1779. at nine o'clock in the morning, departed this
+life Captain Charles Clerke, in the thirty-eighth year of his age. He died
+of a consumption, which had evidently commenced before he left England, and
+of which he had lingered during the whole voyage. His very gradual decay
+had long made him a melancholy object to his friends; yet the equanimity
+with which he bore it, the constant flow of good spirits which continued to
+the last hour, and a cheerful resignation to his fate, afforded them some
+consolation. It was impossible not to feel a more than common degree of
+compassion for a person whose life had been a continued scene of those
+difficulties and hardships to which a seaman's occupation is subject, and
+under which he at last sank. He was brought up to the navy from his
+earliest youth, and had been in several actions during the war which began
+in 1756, particularly in that between the Bellona and Courageux, where,
+being stationed in the mizen-top, he was carried overboard with the mast,
+but was taken up without having received any hurt. He was midshipman in the
+Dolphin, commanded by Commodore Byron, on her first voyage round the world,
+and afterward served on the American station. In 1768, he made his second
+voyage round the world in the Endeavour, as master's mate, and by the
+promotion which took place during the expedition, he returned a lieutenant.
+His third voyage round the world was in the Resolution, of which he was
+appointed the second lieutenant; and soon after his return in 1775, he was
+promoted to the rank of master and commander. When the present expedition
+was ordered to be fitted out, he was appointed to the Discovery, to
+accompany Captain Cook; and, by the death of the latter, succeeded, as has
+been already mentioned, to the chief command.
+
+It would be doing his memory extreme injustice not to say, that during the
+short time the expedition was under his direction, he was most zealous and
+anxious for its success. His health, about the time the principal command
+devolved upon him, began to decline very rapidly, and was every way unequal
+to encounter the rigours of a high northern climate. But the vigour and
+activity of his mind had, in no shape, suffered by the decay of his body;
+and though he knew, that by delaying his return to a warmer climate, he was
+giving up the only chance that remained for his recovery, yet, careful and
+jealous to the last degree, that a regard to his own situation should never
+bias his judgment to the prejudice of the service, he persevered in the
+search of a passage, till it was the opinion of every officer in both ships
+that it was impracticable, and that any farther attempts would not only be
+fruitless but dangerous.
+
+
+
+[25] From the circumstance, related in the last volume, that gave name to
+    Sledge Island, it appears that the inhabitants of the adjacent
+    continents visit occasionally the small islands lying between them,
+    probably for the conveniency of fishing, or in pursuit of furs.
+
+    It appears also from Popoff's deposition, which I shall have occasion
+    to speak of more particularly hereafter, that the general resemblance
+    between the people, who are seen in these islands, and the Tschutski,
+    was sufficient to lead Deshneff into the error of imagining them to be
+    the same. "Opposite to the Noss," he says, "is an island of moderate
+    size, without trees, whose inhabitants _resemble in their exterior the
+    Tschutski, although they are quite another nation_; not numerous,
+    indeed, yet speaking their own particular language." Again, "One may
+    go in a baidare from the Noss to the island in half a day; beyond is a
+    great continent, which can be discovered from the island in serene
+    weather. When the weather is good, one may go from the island to the
+    continent in a day. _The inhabitants of the continent are similar to
+    the Tschutski, excepting that they speak another language_."
+
+[26] I mention the more early Russian navigators, because Beering, whom we
+    have also followed, and after him all the late Russian geographers,
+    have given this name to the S.E. cape of the peninsula of the
+    Tschutski, which was formerly called the Anadirskoi Noss.
+
+[27] It ought, however, to be recollected, that though Shalauroff is
+    conceived never to have doubled Shelatskoi Noss, he nevertheless does
+    not appear to have considered there was any particular difficulty in
+    doing so. In his first attempt to sail from the Kovyma to the Eastern
+    Ocean, he was necessitated, by contrary winds, and the too far
+    advanced season of the year, to seek for a watering-place, before
+    having reached that cape. In the following year, again, he was
+    frustrated by want of provisions, and a mutiny of his crew, which
+    forced him to return to the Lena. The progress of his last enterprise
+    is somewhat uncertain, as neither he nor any of his crew ever
+    returned. But there are tolerably good reasons for believing, that, at
+    all events, he had surmounted the navigation of this cape, if not for
+    the opinion, that he actually accomplished the chief object of his
+    voyage, by bringing his vessel to the mouth of the Anadir, where, it
+    is on the whole, most probable, they were killed by the Tschutski.
+    This last circumstance, however, it is to be allowed Mr Coxe, affords
+    no decisive proof that they had doubled the eastern extremity of Asia,
+    for it is possible they might have reached the Anadir by a journey
+    over land. After all, then, we are forced to revert to Deshneff's
+    voyage as the solitary evidence, and that too but imperfectly
+    elucidated, of the practicability of reaching the Eastern Ocean from
+    the north coast of Asia.--E.
+
+[28] See chart in Coxe's Account of Russian Discoveries.
+
+[29] Here, it is not unlikely, some readers will feel regret, that a
+    greater sacrifice was not made, or a longer continued effort
+    practised, or a renewed attempt hazarded, in order to overcome so
+    inconsiderable a space, and so to double Shelatskoi Noss, whence, it
+    may be thought, there could have been comparatively little difficulty
+    in prosecuting the object of the voyage. The feeling is not
+    unreasonable, provided it be not made the basis of any thing like
+    censure on the management of the undertaking; in which case, it must
+    soon give way to the conviction of the superior good sense, and the
+    higher interest (excluding altogether, which is manifestly inhuman,
+    every concern for the persons immediately engaged in the enterprise)
+    displayed by the determination to abandon the attempt. To the force of
+    this conviction, it may be necessary to add the very material
+    consideration, that, even had it been any way practicable to double
+    the cape in question, and to reach the Lena in the same track as
+    Shalauroff, there would have still remained the space betwixt that
+    river and Archangel, which, though undoubtedly to a great degree
+    explored, does not appear to have been ever altogether navigated. To
+    the merely fanciful caviller at the result of this attempt, it would
+    be a prostitution of time and patience, even if one had both in the
+    requisite quantity, to offer a reply. But the observations which
+    Captain King immediately makes on this subject, will probably obviate
+    any objection which the most sanguine mind will be disposed to
+    entertain, and perhaps there was little occasion to subjoin a single
+    remark to his opinion.--E.
+
+[30] This is the only point on which, it seems possible, to question the
+    reasoning of Captain King, and that altogether on the ground of Mr
+    McKenzie's discovery, which of course was not known to that officer.
+    In virtue of that discovery, it seems obvious enough, that the implied
+    necessity of the run from the Icy Cape to Baffin's Bay in one short
+    season, according to the above argument, is reduced; though it would
+    be erroneous, to say, that the importance of the discovery is such as
+    very materially to modify the occasion for so great a navigation at
+    one stretch. But enough perhaps has been said on a subject, which can
+    scarcely be expected to claim more attention than it has done already,
+    or which, if it be yet destined to prompt to farther undertakings,
+    will do so for some such reasons, and on such grounds, as were
+    formerly adverted to.--E.
+
+[31] See Gmelin, pages 369, 374.
+
+[32] The reader may recollect that his attention was formerly directed to
+    the same work, and for the same reason. It ought now to be remarked,
+    that the subject has very recently attracted much attention by the
+    additional enquiries and observations of Mr Scoresby, as communicated
+    to the Wernerian Society of Edinburgh, and which are likely to lead to
+    some important results.--E.
+
+[33] It is worth while to remember that a corresponding observation as to
+    the comparative prevalence of fogs during a northerly wind, was made
+    in Cook's second voyage when navigating in a high south latitude.--E.
+
+[34] But this opinion is not admitted by Mr Arrowsmith, who has given but
+    one island in this position, as we have already mentioned.--E.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION V.
+
+
+Return to the Harbour of Saint Peter and St Paul.--Promotion of Officers.--
+Funeral of Captain Clerke.--Damages of the Discovery repaired.--Various
+other Occupations of the Ships' Crews.--Letters from the Commander.--Supply
+of Flour and Naval Stores from a Russian Galliot.--Account of an Exile.--
+Bear-hunting and fishing Parties.--Disgrace of the Serjeant.--Celebration
+of the King's Coronation Day, and Visit from the Commander.--The Serjeant
+reinstated.--A Russian Soldier promoted at our Request.--Remarks on the
+Discipline of the Russian Army.--Church at Paratounca.--Method of Bear-
+hunting--Farther Account of the Bears and Kamtschadales.--Inscription to
+the Memory of Captain Clerke.--Supply of Cattle.--Entertainments on the
+Empress's Name Day.--Present from the Commander.--Attempt of a Marine to
+desert.--Work out of the Bay.--Nautical and Geographical Description of
+Awatska Bay.--Astronomical Tables and Observations.
+
+
+I sent Mr Williamson to acquaint Captain Gore with the death of Captain
+Clerke, and received a letter from him, ordering me to use all my
+endeavours to keep in company with the Discovery; and, in case of a
+separation, to make the best of my way to the harbour of Saint Peter and
+Saint Paul. At noon, we were in latitude 53 deg. 8' N., longitude 160 deg. 40' E.,
+with Cheepoonskoi Noss bearing W. We had light airs in the afternoon, which
+lasted through the forenoon of the 23d. At noon, a fresh breeze springing
+up from the eastward, we stood in for the entrance of Awatska Bay; and, at
+six in the evening, saw it bearing W.N.W. 1/2 W., distant five leagues. At
+eight, the light-house, in which we now found a good light, bore N.W. by
+W., three miles distant. The wind about this time died away; but the tide
+being in our favour, we sent the boats ahead, and towed beyond the narrow
+parts of the entrance; and, at one o'clock in the morning of the 24th, the
+ebb tide setting against us, we dropped anchor. At nine we weighed, and
+turned up the bay with light airs, and the boats still ahead till one;
+when, by the help of a fresh breeze, we anchored before three in the
+afternoon in the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, with our ensign
+half staff up, on account of our carrying the body of our late captain, and
+were soon after followed by the Discovery.
+
+We had no sooner anchored than our old friend the serjeant, who was still
+the commander of the place, came on board with a present of berries,
+intended for our poor deceased captain. He was exceedingly affected when we
+told him of his death, and shewed him the coffin that contained his body.
+And as it was Captain Clerke's particular request to be buried on shore,
+and, if possible, in the church of Paratounca, we took the present
+opportunity of explaining this matter to the serjeant, and consulting with
+him about the proper steps to be taken on the occasion. In the course of
+our conversation, which, for want of an interpreter, was carried on but
+imperfectly, we learned that Professor De L'lsle and several other
+gentlemen who died here, had been buried in the ground near the barracks at
+the _ostrog_ of Saint Peter and Saint Paul's; and that this place would be
+preferable to Paratounca, as the church was to be removed thither the next
+year. It was therefore determined that we should wait for the arrival of
+the priest of Paratounca, whom the serjeant advised us to send for, as the
+only person that could satisfy our enquiries on this subject. The serjeant
+having, at the same time, signified his intention of sending off an express
+to the commander at Bolcheretsk, to acquaint him with our arrival, Captain
+Gore availed himself of that occasion of writing him a letter, in which he
+requested that sixteen head of black cattle might be sent with all possible
+expedition. And because the commander did not understand any language
+except his own, the nature of our request was made known to the serjeant,
+who readily undertook to send, along with our letter, an explanation of its
+contents.
+
+We could not help remarking, that, although the country was much improved
+in its appearance since we were last here, the Russians looked, if
+possible, worse now than they did then. It is to be owned, they observed,
+that this was also the case with us; and, as neither party seemed to like
+to be told of their bad looks, we found mutual consolation in throwing the
+blame upon the country, whose green and lively complexion, we agreed, cast
+a deadness and sallowness upon our own.
+
+The eruption of the _volcano_, which was so violent when we sailed out of
+the bay, we found had done no damage here, notwithstanding stones had
+fallen at the _ostrog_ of the size of a goose's egg. This was all the news
+we had to enquire after, and all they had to tell, excepting that of the
+arrival of Soposnikoff from Oonalashka, who took charge of the packet
+Captain Cook had sent to the Admiralty, and which, it gave us much
+satisfaction to find, had been forwarded.
+
+In the morning of the 25th, Captain Gore made out the new commissions, in
+consequence of Captain Clerke's death, appointing himself to the command of
+the Resolution, and me to the command of the Discovery; and Mr Lanyan,
+master's mate of the Resolution, who had served in that capacity on board
+the Adventure in the former voyage, was promoted to the vacant lieutenancy.
+These promotions produced the following farther arrangements: Lieutenants
+Burney and Rickman were removed from the Discovery to be first and second
+lieutenants of the Resolution; and lieutenant Williamson was appointed
+first lieutenant of the Discovery. Captain Gore also permitted me to take
+into the Discovery four midshipmen, who had made themselves useful to me in
+astronomical calculations, and whose assistance was now particularly
+necessary; as we had no _ephemeris_ for the present year. And, that
+astronomical observations might continue to be made in both ships, Mr
+Bayley took my place in the Resolution. The same day we were visited by the
+Pope Romanoff Vereshagen, the worthy priest of Paratounca. He expressed his
+sorrow at the death of Captain Clerke in a manner that did honour to his
+feelings, and confirmed the account given by the serjeant respecting the
+intended removal of the church to the harbour, adding, that the timber was
+actually preparing, but leaving the choice of either place entirely to
+Captain Gore.
+
+The Discovery, as has been mentioned, had suffered great damage from the
+ice, particularly on the 23d day of July; and having ever since been
+exceedingly leaky, it was imagined that some of her timbers had started.
+Captain Gore therefore sent the carpenters of the Resolution to assist our
+own in repairing her; and, accordingly, the forehold being cleared, to
+lighten her forward, they were set to work, to rip the damaged sheathing
+from the larboard bow. This operation discovered, that three feet of the
+third strake, under the wale, were staved and the timbers within started. A
+tent was next erected for the accommodation of such of our people as were
+employed on shore; and a party were sent a mile into the country, to the
+northward of the harbour, to fell timber. The observatories were erected at
+the west end of the village, near a tent in which Captain Gore and myself
+took up our abode.
+
+The farther we proceeded in removing the sheathing, the more we discovered
+of the decayed state of the ship's hull. The next morning, eight feet of a
+plank in the wale were found to be so exceedingly rotten, as to make it
+necessary to shift it. This left us for some time at a stand, as nothing
+was to be found in either ship wherewith to replace it, unless we chose to
+cut up a top-mast, an expedient not to be had recourse to, till all others
+failed. The carpenters were, therefore, sent on shore in the afternoon, in
+search of a tree big enough for the purpose. Luckily they found a birch,
+which I believe was the only one of sufficient size in the whole
+neighbourhood of the bay, and which had been sawed down by us when we were
+last here; so that it had the advantage of having lain some time to season.
+This was shaped on the spot, and brought on board the next morning.
+
+As the season was now so far advanced, I was fearful lest any delay or
+hindrance should arise, on our parts, to Captain Gore's farther views of
+discovery, and therefore gave orders that no more sheathing should be
+ripped off than was absolutely necessary for repairing the damages
+sustained by the ice. This I did, being apprehensive of their meeting with
+more decayed planks, which, I judged, had much better remain in that state,
+than be filled up with green birch, upon a supposition that such was to be
+had. All hands were at present busily employed in separate duties, that
+every thing might be in readiness for sea against the time our carpenters
+should have finished their work. We set apart four men to haul the seine
+for salmon, which were caught in great abundance, and found to be of an
+excellent quality. After supplying the immediate wants of both ships, we
+salted down near a hogshead a day. The invalids, who were four in number,
+were employed in gathering greens, and in cooking for the parties on shore.
+Our powder was also landed, in order to be dried; and the seahorse blubber,
+with which both ships, in our passage to the north, (as has been before
+related,) had stored themselves, was now boiled down for oil, which was
+become a necessary article, our candles having long since been expended.
+The cooper was fully engaged in his department; and in this manner were
+both ships' companies employed in their several occupations, till Saturday
+afternoon, which was given up to all our men, except the carpenters, for
+the purpose of washing their linen, and getting their clothes in some
+little order, that they might make a decent appearance on Sunday.
+
+In the afternoon of that day, we paid the last offices to Captain Clerke.
+The officers and men of both ships walked in procession to the grave,
+whilst the ships fired minute-guns; and the service being ended, the
+marines fired three vollies. He was interred under a tree which stands on
+rising ground, in the valley to the north side of the harbour, where the
+hospital and store-houses are situated; Captain Gore having judged this
+situation most agreeable to the last wishes of the deceased, for the
+reasons above-mentioned; and the priest of Paratounca having pointed out a
+spot for his grave, which, he said, would be, as near as he could guess, in
+the centre of the new church. This reverend pastor walked in the procession
+along with the gentleman who read the service; and all the Russians in the
+garrison were assembled, and attended with great respect and solemnity.
+
+On the 30th, the different parties returned to their respective
+employments, as mentioned in the course of the preceding week; and, on the
+2d of September, the carpenters having shifted the rotten and damaged
+planks, and repaired and caulked the sheathing of the larboard bow,
+proceeded to rip off the sheathing that had been injured by the ice, from
+the starboard side. Here again they discovered four feet of a plank, in the
+third strake under the wale, so shaken, as to make it necessary to be
+replaced. This was accordingly done, and the sheathing repaired on the 3d.
+In the afternoon of the same day, we got on board some ballast, unhung the
+rudder, and sent it on shore, the lead of the pintles being found entirely
+worn away, and a great part of the sheathing rubbed off. As the carpenters
+of the Resolution were not yet wanted, we got this set to rights the next
+day, but finding the rudder out of all proportion heavy, even heavier than
+that of the Resolution, we let it remain on shore in order to dry and
+lighten.
+
+The same day an ensign arrived from Bolcheretsk with a letter from the
+commander to Captain Gore, which we put into the serjeant's hands, and, by
+his assistance, were made to understand, that orders had been given about
+the cattle, and that they might be expected here in the course of a few
+days; and, moreover, that Captain Shmaleff, the present commander, would
+himself pay us a visit immediately on the arrival of a sloop which was
+daily expected from Okotzk. The young officer who brought the letter was
+the son of the Captain-lieutenant Synd, who commanded an expedition on
+discovery, between Asia and America, eleven years ago, and resided at this
+time at Okotzk.[35] He informed us, that he was sent to receive our
+directions, and to take care to get us supplied with whatever our service
+might require; and that he should remain with us till the commander was
+himself able to leave Bolcheretsk; after which he was to return, that the
+garrison there might not be left without an officer.
+
+On the 5th, the parties that were on shore returned on board, and were
+employed in scrubbing the ship's bottom, and getting in eight tons of
+shingle ballast. We also got up two of our guns that had been stowed in the
+fore-hold, and mounted them on the deck, being now about to visit nations,
+our reception amongst whom might a good deal depend on the respectability
+of our appearance.
+
+The Resolution hauled on shore on the 8th, to repair some damage which she
+had also received among the ice, in her cut-water, and our carpenters in
+their turn, were sent to her assistance.
+
+About this time we began to brew a strong decoction of a species of dwarf-
+pine that grows here in great abundance, thinking that it might hereafter
+be useful in making beer, and that we should probably be able to procure
+sugar or molasses to ferment with it at Canton. At all events I was sure it
+would be serviceable as a medicine for the scurvy; and was more
+particularly desirous of supplying myself with as much of it as I could
+procure, because most of the preventatives we had brought out were either
+used, or spoiled by keeping. By the time we had prepared a hogshead of it,
+the ship's copper was discovered to be very thin, and cracked in many
+places. This obliged me to desist, and to give orders that it should be
+used as sparingly for the future as possible. It might, perhaps, be an
+useful precaution for those who may hereafter be engaged in long voyages of
+this kind, either to provide themselves with a spare copper, or to see that
+the copper usually furnished be of the strongest kind. The various extra-
+services, in which it will be found necessary to employ them, and
+especially the important one of making antiscorbutic decoctions, seem
+absolutely to require some such provision; and I should rather recommend
+the former, on account of the additional quantity of fuel that would be
+consumed in heating thick coppers.
+
+In the morning of the 10th, the boats from both ships were sent to tow into
+the harbour a Russian galliot from Okotzk. She had been thirty-five days on
+her passage, and had been seen from the light-house a fortnight ago,
+beating up toward the mouth of the bay. At that time the crew had sent
+their only boat on shore for water, of which they now began to be in great
+want; and the wind freshening, the boat was lost on its return, and the
+galliot, being driven out to sea again, had suffered exceedingly.
+
+There were fifty soldiers in her, with their wives and children, and
+several other passengers, besides the crew, which consisted of twenty-five,
+so that they had upward of an hundred souls on board. A great number for a
+vessel of eighty tons; and that was also heavy laden with stores and
+provisions. Both this galliot, and the sloop we saw here in May, are built
+like the Dutch doggers. Soon after she had come to anchor, we received a
+visit from a _put-parouchick_, or sub-lieutenant, who was a passenger in
+the galliot, and sent to take the command of this place. Part of the
+soldiers, we understood, were also designed to reinforce the garrison; and
+two pieces of small cannon were landed, as an additional defence to the
+town. It should seem, from these circumstances, that our visit here had
+drawn the attention of the Russian commanders in Siberia, to the
+defenceless situation of the place; and I was told by the honest serjeant,
+with many significant shrugs, that, as we had found our way into it, other
+nations might do the same, some of whom might not be altogether so
+welcome.[36]
+
+Next morning the Resolution hauled off from the shore, having repaired the
+damages she had sustained by the ice; and, in the course of the day, we got
+from the galliot a small quantity of pitch, tar, cordage, and twine; canvas
+was the only thing we asked for, with which their scanty store did not put
+it into their power to supply us. We also received from her an hundred and
+forty skins of flour, amounting to 13,782 pounds English, after deducting
+five pounds for the weight of each bag.
+
+We had a constant course of dry weather till this day, when there came on a
+heavy rain, accompanied with strong squalls of wind, which obliged us to
+strike our yards and topmasts.
+
+The 12th, being Sunday, was kept as a day of rest; but the weather
+unfortunately continuing foul, our men could not derive the advantage from
+it we wished, by gathering the berries that grew in great quantities and
+varieties on the coast, and taking other pastime on shore. The same day
+Ensign Synd left us to return to Bolcheretsk with the remainder of the
+soldiers that came in the galliot. He had been our constant guest during
+his stay. Indeed we could not but consider him, on his father's account, as
+in some measure belonging to us, and entitled, as one of the family of
+discoverers, to a share in our affections.
+
+We had hitherto admitted the serjeant to our tables, in consideration of
+his being commander of the place; and, moreover, because he was a quick,
+sensible man, and comprehended better than any other, the few Russian words
+we had learned. Ensign Synd had very politely suffered him to enjoy the
+same privileges during his stay; but, on the arrival of the new commander
+from Okotzk, the serjeant, for some cause or other, which we could not
+learn, fell into disgrace, and was no longer suffered to sit down in the
+company of his own officers. It was in vain to think of making any attempt
+to obtain an indulgence, which, though it would have been highly agreeable
+to us, was doubtless incompatible with their discipline.
+
+On Wednesday we had finished the stowage of the holds, got on board all our
+wood and water, and were ready to put to sea at a day's notice. It is
+however necessary to observe, that though every thing was in this degree of
+readiness on board, the cattle were not yet arrived from Verchnei; and as
+fresh provisions were the most important article of our wants, and in a
+great measure necessary for the health of the men, we could not think of
+taking our departure without them. We therefore thought this a favourable,
+opportunity (especially as there was an appearance of fine weather) of
+taking some amusement on shore, and acquiring a little knowledge of the
+country. Accordingly Captain Gore proposed a party of bear-hunting, which
+we all very readily came into.
+
+We did not set out on this expedition till Friday the 17th, in order to
+give a day's rest to the Hospodin Ivaskin, a new acquaintance, that was to
+be of our party, and who came down here on Wednesday. This gentleman who,
+we understood, usually resides at Verchnei, had been desired by Major Behm
+to attend us on our return to the harbour, in order to be our interpreter;
+and the accounts we had heard of him before his arrival had excited in us a
+great curiosity to see him.
+
+He is of a considerable family in Russia. His father was a general in the
+empress's service; and he himself, after having received his education
+partly in France, and partly in Germany, had been page to the Empress
+Elizabeth, and an ensign in her guards. At the age of sixteen he was
+_knowted_, had his nose slit, and was banished first to Siberia, and
+afterward to Kamtschatka, where he had now lived thirty-one years. He was a
+very tall thin man, with a face all over furrowed with deep wrinkles; and
+bore in his whole figure the strongest marks of old age, though he had
+scarcely reached his fifty-fourth year.
+
+To our very great disappointment he had so totally forgotten both his
+German and French, as not to be able to speak a sentence, nor readily to
+understand what was said to him in either of these languages. We found
+ourselves thus unfortunately deprived of what we flattered ourselves would
+have turned out a favourable opportunity of getting farther information
+relative to this country. We had also promised ourselves much pleasure from
+the history of this extraordinary man, which he probably would have been
+induced to relate to strangers, who might perhaps be of some little service
+to him, but who could have no inducement to take advantage from any thing
+he might say to do him an injury. No one here knew the cause of his
+banishment, but they took it for granted that it must have been for
+something very atrocious, particularly as two or three commanders of
+Kamtschatka have endeavoured to get him recalled since the present
+empress's reign; but far from succeeding in this, they have not been even
+able to get the place of his banishment changed. He told us that for twenty
+years he had not tasted bread, nor had been allowed subsistence of any kind
+whatsoever; but that during this period he had lived among the
+Kamtschadales on what his own activity and toil in the chase had furnished:
+That afterward he had a small pension granted; and that, since Major Behm
+came to the command, his situation had been, infinitely mended. The notice
+that worthy man had taken of him, and his having often invited him to
+become his guest, had been the occasion of others following his example;
+besides which, he had been the means of getting his pension increased to
+one hundred roubles a year, which is the common pay of an ensign in all
+parts of the empress's dominions, except in this province, where the pay of
+all the officers is double. Major Behm told us that he had obtained
+permission to take him to Okotzk, which was to be the place of his
+residence in future; but that he should leave him behind for the present,
+on an idea that he might, on our return to the bay, be useful to us as an
+interpreter.[37]
+
+Having given orders to the first lieutenants of both ships, to let the
+rigging have such a repair as the supply of stores we had lately received
+would permit, we set out on our hunting party, under the direction of the
+corporal of the Kamtschadales, intending, before we began to look for our
+game, to proceed straight to the head of Behm's Harbour. It is an inlet on
+the west side of the bay, (which we had named after that officer, from its
+being a favourite place of his, and having been surveyed by himself,) and
+is called by the natives Tareinska.
+
+In our way toward this harbour we met the _Toion_ of Saint Peter and Saint
+Paul in a canoe, with his wife and two children, and another Kamtschadale.
+He had killed two seals upon a round island, that lies in the entrance of
+the harbour, with which, and a great quantity of berries that he had
+gathered, he was returning home. As the wind had veered to the S.W., we now
+changed our route by his advice; and, instead of going up the harbour,
+directed our course to the northward, toward a pool of water that lies near
+the mouth of the river Paratounca, and which was a known haunt of the
+bears. We had scarce landed, when unfortunately the wind changed to the
+eastward, and a second time destroyed all hopes of coming up with our game;
+for the Kamtschadales assured us, that it was in vain to expect to meet
+with bears, whilst we were to the windward, owing to their being possessed
+of an uncommon acuteness in scenting their pursuers, which enabled them,
+under such circumstances, to avoid the danger, whilst it is yet at a very
+great distance. We returned therefore to the boat, and passed the night on
+the beach, having brought a tent with us for that purpose, and the next
+day, by the advice of our guides, crossed the bay, and went to the head of
+Rakoweena Harbour.
+
+Having here secured the boats, we proceeded with all our luggage on foot,
+and, after a walk of five or six miles, came to the sea-side, a league to
+the northward of the light-house head. From hence, as far as we could see
+toward Cheepoonskoi Noss, there is a continued narrow border of low level
+ground adjoining to the sea, which is covered with heath, and produces
+great abundance of berries, particularly those called partridge and crow
+berries. We were told we should not fail to meet with a number of bears
+feeding upon those berries; but that the weather being showery, was
+unfavourable for us.
+
+Accordingly we directed our course along this plain, and, though we saw
+several bears at a distance, we could never, with all our management,
+contrive to get within shot of them. Our diversion was therefore changed to
+spearing of salmon, which we saw pushing in great numbers through the surf
+into a small river. I could not help observing how much inferior our
+Kamtschadales were, at this method of fishing, to the people at Oonalashka;
+nor were their instruments, although pointed with iron, near so good for
+the purpose, nor to be compared in neatness to those of the Americans,
+though pointed only with bone. On enquiring into the reason of this
+inferiority, I was informed by the corporal, who had lived many years
+amongst the Americans, that formerly the Kamtschadales made use of the same
+kind of darts and spears with the Americans, headed and barbed with bone,
+and were not less dexterous in the management of them than the latter. We
+could not understand one another sufficiently for me to learn the cause of
+this change; probably it was one of the not unusual effects of a forced and
+imperfect state of improvement. It fell out very opportunely that the water
+afforded us a little prey; for, besides our ill success in the chase by
+land, we had also been disappointed in our expectations of shooting wild
+fowl, on a supply of which we had in some measure depended for our
+subsistence; and, on its failure, began to think that we had been full long
+absent from head quarters.
+
+Our Kamtschadales now discovered that the want of success in not meeting
+with game, was owing to the party being too large, and to the unavoidable
+noise that was the consequence of it. We therefore agreed to separate,
+Ivaskin, the corporal, and myself, forming one party, Captain Gore, and the
+rest of the company, the other.
+
+Accordingly, after passing the night under our tent, we set out on the
+morning of the 19th, by different routes, meaning to take a circuit round
+the country, and meet at Saint Peter and Saint Paul. The party to which I
+belonged took the course of the river, at the mouth of which we had fished
+for the salmon; and, after being thoroughly soaked by the heavy rains that
+fell all the morning, we came about three in the afternoon to some old
+_balagans_, where a Kamtschadale village had been formerly situated,
+without meeting with a single bear during the whole of a long and tedious
+walk. It was our first intention to have remained here all night, in order
+to have resumed our chase early the next morning; but the weather clearing,
+and, at the same time, a fresh breeze springing up from a quarter
+unfavourable to our designs, the Hospodin, whom former sufferings had made
+very unfit to bear much fatigue, and who seemed at present more
+particularly distressed from having emptied his snuff-box, began to be very
+importunate with us to return home. It was some time before the old
+corporal consented, alleging, that we were at a great distance from the
+harbour, and that, on account of the badness of the way, the night would
+probably overtake us before we reached the end of our journey. At length,
+however, he yielded to Ivaskin's entreaties, and conducted us along the
+side of a number of small lakes, with which the flat part of this country
+seems much to abound. These lakes are from half a mile to two miles in
+length, and about half a mile broad; the water is fresh and clear, and they
+are full of a red-coloured fish, resembling, both in shape and size, a
+small salmon; of which a more particular description will be given
+hereafter. The banks of these lakes were covered with fragments of fish
+that the bears had half eaten, and which caused an intolerable stench. We
+often came upon the spots which the bears had just left, but were never
+able even to come within sight of them.
+
+It was night before we reached the ships, and we had then been twelve hours
+upon our legs. Poor Ivaskin found himself exceedingly tired and overcome
+with fatigue; probably he was more sensible of it for want of a supply of
+snuff; for every step he took his hand dived mechanically into his pocket,
+and drew out his huge empty box. We had scarcely got into the tent, when
+the weather set in exceedingly rough and wet. We congratulated ourselves
+that we had not staid out another day, the Hospodin's box was replenished,
+and we forgot the fatigues and ill success of our expedition over a good
+supper.
+
+I was exceedingly sorry, on being told the next day, that our friend the
+serjeant had undergone corporal punishment during our absence, by command
+of the old _Putparouchick_. None of our people had been able to learn, what
+was the cause of his displeasure; but it was imagined to have arisen from
+some little jealousy subsisting between them, on account of the civility
+which we had shewn to the former. However, having every reason to believe
+that the offence, whatever it might be, did not call for so disgraceful a
+chastisement, we could not help being both sorry and much provoked at it,
+as the terms on which we had lived with him, and the interest we were known
+to take in his affairs, made the affront, in some measure, personal to
+ourselves; for it has not yet been mentioned, that we had consulted with
+the late worthy commander, Major Behm, who was also his friend, by what
+means we might be most likely to succeed in doing him some service for the
+good order he had kept in the _ostrog_ during our stay, and for his
+readiness on all occasions to oblige us. The major advised a letter of
+recommendation to the governor-general, which Captain Clerke had
+accordingly given him, and which, backed with his own representations, he
+had no doubt would get the serjeant advanced a step higher in his
+profession.
+
+We did not choose to make any remonstrance on this subject till the arrival
+of Captain Shmaleff. Indeed our inability, from the want of language, to
+enter into any discussion of the business, made it advisable to come to
+this determination. However, when the _Putparouchick_ paid us his next
+visit, we could not help testifying our chagrin by receiving him very
+coolly.
+
+The 22d being the anniversary of his majesty's coronation, twenty-one guns
+were fired, and the handsomest feast our situation would allow of, was
+prepared, in honour of the day. As we were sitting down to dinner, the
+arrival of Captain Shmaleff was announced. This was a most agreeable
+surprise; in the first place, because he arrived so opportunely to partake
+of the good fare and festivity of the occasion; and, in the next, because,
+in our last accounts of him, we were given to understand, that the effects
+of a severe illness had made him unequal to the journey. We were glad to
+find this had been merely an excuse; that, in fact, he was ashamed of
+coming empty-handed, knowing we must be in great want of tea, sugar, &c.
+&c.; and that therefore he had deferred his setting out, in daily
+expectation of the sloop from Okotzk; but having no tidings of her, and
+dreading lest we should sail, without his having paid us a visit, he was
+determined to set out, though with nothing better to present to us than
+apologies for the poverty of Bolcheretsk. At the same time he acquainted
+us, that our not having received the sixteen head of black cattle we had
+desired might be sent down, was owing to the very heavy rains at Verchnei,
+which had prevented their setting out. We made the best answer we were able
+to so much politeness and generosity; and the next day, on coming on board
+the Resolution, he was saluted with eleven guns. Specimens of all our
+curiosities were presented to him, and Captain Gore added to them a gold
+watch and a fowling-piece.
+
+The next day he was entertained on board the Discovery, and on the 25th he
+took leave of us to return to Bolcheretsk. He could not be prevailed upon
+to lengthen his visit, having some expectations, as he told us, that the
+sub-governor-general, who was at this time making a tour through all the
+provinces of the Governor-general of Jakutzk, might arrive in the sloop
+that was daily expected from Okotzk. Before his departure, and without any
+interference of ours, he reinstated the serjeant in the command of this
+place, having determined to take the _Putparouchick_ along with him; at the
+same time we understood that he was highly displeased with him on account
+of the punishment that had been inflicted on the serjeant, and for which
+there did not appear to be the slightest foundation.
+
+Captain Shmaleff's great readiness to give us every possible proof of his
+desire to oblige us, encouraged us to ask a small favour for another of our
+Kamtschadale friends. It was to requite an old soldier, whose house had
+been at all times open to the inferior officers, and who had done both them
+and all the crew a thousand good offices. The captain most obligingly
+complied with our request, and dubbed him (which was all he wished for) a
+corporal upon the spot, and ordered him to thank the English officers for
+his great promotion. It may not here be improper to observe, that in the
+Russian army the inferior class of officers enjoy a degree of pre-eminence
+above the private men, with which we, in our service, are in a great
+measure unacquainted. It was no small astonishment to us, to see a serjeant
+keep up all the state, and exact all the respect from all beneath him
+belonging to a field-officer. It may be farther remarked, that there are
+many more gradations of rank amongst them than are to be met with in other
+countries. Between a serjeant and a private man, there are not less than
+four intermediate steps; and I have no doubt, but that the advantages
+arising from this system are found to be very considerable. The salutary
+effects of little subordinate ranks in our sea-service cannot be
+questioned. It gives rise to great emulation, and the superior officers are
+enabled to bestow, on almost every possible degree of merit, a reward
+proportioned to it.
+
+Having been incidentally led into this subject, I shall beg leave to add
+but one observation more, namely, that the discipline of the Russian army,
+though at this distance from the seat of government, is of the strictest
+and severest kind, from which even the commissioned officers are not
+exempt. The punishment of the latter for small offences is imprisonment,
+and a bread and water diet. An ensign, a good friend of ours at this place,
+told us, that, for having been concerned in a drunken riot, he was confined
+in the black hole for three months, and fed upon bread and water; which, he
+said, so shattered his nerves, that he had never since had spirits for a
+common convivial meeting.
+
+I accompanied Captain Shmaleff to the entrance of Awatska River; and having
+bid him farewell, took this opportunity of paying a visit to the priest of
+Paratounca. On Sunday, the 26th, I attended him to church. The congregation
+consisted of his own family, three Kamtschadale men, and three boys, who
+assisted in singing part of the service; the whole of which was performed
+in a very solemn and edifying manner. The church is of wood, and by far the
+best building either in this town or that of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. It
+is ornamented with many paintings, particularly with two pictures of Saint
+Peter and Saint Paul, presented by Beering; and which, in the real richness
+of their drapery, would carry off the prize from the first of our European
+performances; for all the principal parts of it are made of thick plates of
+solid silver, fastened to the canvas, and fashioned into the various
+foldings of the robes with which the figures were clothed.
+
+The next day, I set on foot another hunting party, and put myself under the
+direction of the clerk of the parish, who was a celebrated bear-hunter. We
+arrived by sun-set, at the side of one of the larger lakes. The next step
+was to conceal ourselves as much as possible; and this we were able to do
+effectually, among some long grass and brushwood, that grew close to the
+water's edge. We had not lain long in ambush, before we had the pleasure to
+hear the growlings of bears in different parts round about us; and our
+expectations were soon gratified, by the sight of one of them in the water,
+which seemed to be swimming directly to the place where we lay hid. The
+moon, at this time, gave a considerable light; and when the animal had
+advanced about fifteen yards, three of us fired at it, pretty nearly at the
+same time. The beast immediately turned short on one side, and set up a
+noise, which could not properly be called roaring, nor growling, nor
+yelling, but was a mixture of all three, and horrible beyond description.
+We plainly saw that it was severely wounded, and that with difficulty it
+gained the bank, and retreated to some thick bushes at a little distance.
+It still continued to make the same loud and terrible noise; and though the
+Kamtschadales were persuaded it was mortally wounded, and could get no
+farther, yet they thought it most advisable not to rouse it again for the
+present. It was at this time past nine o'clock; and the night becoming
+overcast, and threatening a change of weather, we thought it most prudent
+to return home, and defer the gratification of our curiosity till morning,
+when we returned to the spot, and found the bear dead, in the place to
+which it had been watched. It proved to be a female, and beyond the common
+size.
+
+As the account of our first hunting-party will be apt to give the reader a
+wrong idea of the method in which this sport is usually conducted, it may
+not be amiss to add a few more words on the subject; and which I am the
+better able to do since this last expedition.
+
+When the natives come to the ground frequented by the bears, which they
+contrive to reach about sun-set, the first step is to look for their
+tracks; to examine which are the freshest, and the best situated with a
+view to concealment; and taking aim at the beast, either as he is passing
+by, or advancing in front, or going from them. These tracks are found in
+the greatest numbers, leading from the woods down to the lakes, and among
+the long sedgy grass and brakes by the edge of the water. The place of
+ambuscade being determined upon, the hunters next fix in the ground the
+crutches, upon which their firelocks are made to rest, pointing them in the
+direction they mean to make their shot. This done, they kneel, or lie down,
+as the circumstances of the cover require; and, with their bear-spears by
+their side, wait for their game. These precautions, which are chiefly taken
+in order to make sure of their mark, are, on several accounts, highly
+expedient. For, in the first place, ammunition is so dear at Kamtschatka,
+that the price of a bear will not purchase more of it than is sufficient to
+load a musquet four or five times; and, what, is more material, if the bear
+be not rendered incapable of pursuit by the first shot, the consequences
+are often fatal. He immediately makes toward the place from whence the
+noise and smoke issue, and attacks his adversaries with great fury. It is
+impossible for them to reload, as the animal is seldom at more than twelve
+or fifteen yards distance when he is fired at; so that if he does not fall,
+they immediately put themselves in a posture to receive him upon their
+spears; and their safety greatly depends on their giving him a mortal stab,
+as he first comes upon them. If he parries the thrust, (which, by the
+extraordinary strength and agility of their paws, they are often enabled to
+do,) and thereby breaks in upon his adversaries, the conflict becomes very
+unequal, and it is well if the life of one of the party alone suffice to
+pay the forfeit.[38]
+
+There are two seasons of the year when this diversion, or occupation, as it
+may be rather called, is more particularly dangerous; in the spring, when
+the bears first come forth, after having subsisted, as is universally
+asserted here, on sucking their paws through the winter; and especially if
+the frost happen to be severe, and the ice not to be broken up in the lake
+at that time, by which means they are deprived of their ordinary and
+expected food. Under these circumstances, they soon become exceedingly
+famished, and fierce and savage in proportion. They will pursue the natives
+by the scent; and as they now prowl about out of their usual tracks,
+frequently come upon them unawares; and when this happens, as the
+Kamtschadales have not the smallest notion of shooting flying, nor even at
+an animal running, or in any way except with their piece on a rest, the
+bear-hunters often fall a sacrifice to their hunger. The other season in
+which it is dangerous to come in their way, is at the time of their
+copulation, which is generally about this time of the year.
+
+An extraordinary instance of natural affection in these animals has been
+already mentioned. The chace affords a variety of a similar nature, and not
+less affecting; many of which were related to me. The Kamtschadales derive
+great advantage in hunting from this circumstance. They, never venture to
+fire upon a young bear, when the mother is near; for if the cub drop, she
+becomes enraged to a degree little short of madness; and if she get sight
+of the enemy, will only quit her revenge with her life. On the contrary, if
+the dam be shot, the cubs will not leave her side, even after she has been
+dead a long time, but continue about her, shewing, by a variety of
+affecting actions and gestures, marks of the deepest affliction, and thus
+become any easy prey to the hunters.
+
+Nor is the sagacity of the bears, if the Kamtschadales are to be credited,
+less extraordinary, or less worthy to be remarked, than their natural
+affection. Of this they have a thousand stories to relate. I shall content
+myself with mentioning one instance, which the natives speak of as a well-
+known fact, and that is, the stratagem they have recourse to in order to
+catch the bareins, which are considerably too swift of foot for them. These
+animals keep together in large herds; they frequent mostly the low grounds,
+and love to browse at the feet of rocks and precipices. The bear hunts them
+by scent, till he come in sight, when he advances warily, keeping above
+them, and concealing himself amongst the rocks, as he makes his approaches,
+till he gets immediately over them, and nigh enough for his purpose. He
+then begins to push down with his paws pieces of the rock amongst the herd
+below. This manoeuvre is not followed by any attempt to pursue, until he
+find he has maimed one of the flock, upon which a course immediately
+ensues, that proves successful, or otherwise, according to the hurt the
+barein has received.[39]
+
+I cannot conclude this digression, without observing, that the
+Kamtschadales very thankfully acknowledge their obligations to the bears
+for what little advancement they have hitherto made either in the sciences
+or polite arts. They confess that they owe to them all their skill both to
+physic and surgery; that, by remarking with what herbs these animals rub
+the wounds they have received, and what they have recourse to when sick and
+languid, they have become acquainted with most of the simples in use among
+them, either in the way of internal medicine, or external application. But,
+what will appear somewhat more singular, is, they acknowledge the bears
+likewise for their dancing-masters. Indeed, the evidence of one's senses
+puts this out of dispute; for the bear-dance of the Kamtschadales is an
+exact counterpart of every attitude and gesture peculiar to this animal,
+through its various functions; and this is the foundation and groundwork of
+all their other dances, and what they value themselves most upon.
+
+I returned to the ships on the 28th, very well pleased with my excursion,
+as it had afforded me an opportunity of seeing a little more of the
+country, and of observing the manners and behaviour of the Kamtschadales,
+when freed from that constraint which they evidently lie under in the
+company of the Russians.
+
+No occurrence worth mentioning took place till the 30th, when Captain Gore
+went to Paratounca, to put up in the church there an escutcheon, prepared
+by Mr Webber, with an inscription upon it, setting forth Captain Clerke's
+age and rank, and the object of the expedition in which he was engaged at
+the time of his decease. We also affixed to the tree under which he was
+buried, a board, with an inscription upon it to the same effect.[40]
+
+Before his departure, Captain Gore left orders with me to get the ships out
+of the harbour into the bay, to be in readiness to sail. We were prevented
+from doing this by a violent gale of wind, which lasted the whole day of
+the 1st of October. However, on the 2d, both ships warped out of the
+harbour, clear of the narrow passage, and came to anchor in seven fathoms,
+a quarter of a mile from the _ostrog_.
+
+The day before we went out of the harbour the cattle arrived from Verchnei;
+and, that the men might receive the full benefit of this capital and much-
+longed-for supply, by consuming it fresh, Captain Gore came to a
+determination of staying five or six days longer. Nor was this time idly
+employed. The boats, pumps, sails, and rigging of both ships, thereby
+received an additional repair. And Captain Gore sparing me some molasses,
+and the use of the Resolution's copper, I was enabled to brew a fortnight's
+beer for the crew, and to make a farther provision of ten puncheons of
+strong spruce essence. The present supply was the more acceptable, as our
+last cask of spirits, except a small quantity left in reserve for cases of
+necessity, was now serving out.
+
+The 3d was the name-day of the Empress, and we could want no inducement to
+shew it every possible respect. Accordingly, Captain Gore invited the
+priest of Paratounca, Ivaskin, and the serjeant, to dinner; and an
+entertainment was also provided for the inferior officers of the garrison;
+for the two _Toions_ of Paratounca and Saint Peter and Saint Paul, and for
+the other better sort of Kamtschadale inhabitants. The rest of the natives,
+of every description, were invited to partake with the ships' companies,
+who had a pound of good fat beef served out to each man; and what remained
+of our spirits was made into grog, and divided amongst them. A salute of
+twenty-one guns was fired at the usual hour; and the whole was conducted
+(considering the part of her dominion it was in) in a manner not unworthy
+so renowned and magnificent an empress.
+
+On the 5th, we received from Bolcheretsk a fresh supply of tea, sugar, and
+tobacco. This present had met Captain Shmaleff on his return, and was
+accompanied by a letter from him, in which he informed us, that the sloop
+from Okotzk had arrived during his absence; and that Madame Shmaleff, who
+was entirely in our interests, had lost no time in dispatching a courier
+with the few presents, of which our acceptance was requested.
+
+The appearance of foul weather on the 6th and 7th, prevented our unmooring;
+but on the morning of the 8th, we sailed out toward the mouth of the bay,
+and hoisted in all the boats, when the wind, veering to the southward,
+stopped our farther progress, and obliged us to drop anchor in ten fathoms;
+the _ostrog_ bearing due north, half a league distant.
+
+The weather being foggy, and the wind from the same quarter during the
+forenoon of the 9th, we continued in our station. At four in the afternoon
+we again unmoored; but whilst we were with great difficulty weighing our
+last anchor, I was told that the drummer of the marines had left the boat
+which had just returned from the village, and that he was last seen with a
+Kamtschadale woman, to whom his messmates knew he had been much attached,
+and who had often been observed persuading him to stay behind. Though this
+man had been long useless to us, from a swelling in his knee, which
+rendered him lame, yet this made me the more unwilling he should be left
+behind, to become a miserable burden both to the Russians and himself. I
+therefore got the serjeant to send parties of soldiers, in different
+directions, in search of him, whilst some of our sailors went to a well-
+known haunt of his in the neighbourhood, where they found him with his
+woman. On the return of this party, with our deserter, we weighed, and
+followed the Resolution out of the bay.
+
+Having at length taken our leave of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, I shall
+conclude this section with a particular description of Awatska Bay, and the
+coast adjoining; not only because (its three inlets included) it
+constitutes, perhaps, the most extensive and safest harbour that has yet
+been discovered, but because it is the only port in this part of the world
+capable of admitting ships of any considerable burden. The term Bay,
+indeed, is perhaps not applicable, properly speaking, to a place so well
+sheltered as Awatska; but, then, it must be observed, that, from the loose
+undistinguishing manner in which navigators have denominated certain
+situations of sea and land, with respect to each other, bays, roads,
+sounds, harbours, &c. we have no defined and determinate ideas affixed to
+these words, sufficient to warrant us in changing a popular name for one
+that may appear more proper.
+
+The entrance into this bay is in 52 deg. 51' north latitude, and 158 deg. 48' east
+longitude, and lies in the bight of another exterior bay, formed by
+Cheepoonskoi Noss to the N., and Cape Gavareea to the S. The former of
+these head lands bears from the latter N.E. by N. 3/4 E., and is distant
+thirty-two leagues. The coast from Cape Gavareea to the entrance of Awatska
+Bay, takes a direction nearly N., and is eleven leagues in extent. It
+consists of a chain of high ragged cliffs, with detached rocks frequently
+lying off them. This coast, at a distance, presents in many parts an
+appearance of bays or inlets, but, on a nearer approach, the head-lands
+were found connected by low ground.
+
+Cheepoonskoi Noss bears, from the entrance of the bay, E.N.E. 1/4 E, and is
+twenty-five leagues distant. On this side the shore is low and flat, with
+hills rising behind to a considerable height. In the latitude of Cape
+Gavareea there is an error of twenty-one miles in the Russian charts, its
+true latitude being 52 deg. 21'.
+
+This striking difference of the land on each side Awatska Bay, with their
+different bearings, are the best guides to steer for it in coming from the
+southward; and, in approaching it from the northward, Cheepoonskoi Noss
+will make itself very conspicuous; for it is a high projecting head-land,
+with a considerable extent of level ground lower than the Noss, uniting it
+to the continent. It presents the same appearance, whether viewed from the
+north or south, and will warn the mariner not to be deceived in imagining
+Awatska Bay to lie in the bight which the coast forms to the northward of
+this Noss, and which might be the case, from the striking resemblance there
+is between a conical hill within this bight or bay, and one to the south of
+Awatska Bay.
+
+I have been thus particular in giving a minute description of this coast,
+from our own experience of the want of it. For had we been furnished with a
+tolerable account of the form of the coast on each side of Awatska Bay, we
+should, on our first arrival upon it, have got safely within the bay two
+days before we did, and thereby have avoided part of the stormy weather
+which came on when we were plying off the mouth of the harbour. Besides,
+from the prevalence of fogs in these seas, it must frequently happen, that
+an observation for ascertaining the latitude cannot be got; to which we may
+add, that the deceptive appearances land makes when covered with snow, and
+when viewed through an hazy atmosphere, both which circumstances prevail
+here during the greatest part of the year, render the knowledge of a
+variety of discriminating objects the more necessary.
+
+Should, however, the weather be clear enough to admit a view of the
+mountains on the coast in its neighbourhood, these will serve to point out
+the situation of Awatska Bay, with a great deal of precision. For to the
+south of it are two high mountains; that which is nearest to the bay, is
+shaped like a sugar-loaf; the other, which is farther inland, does not
+appear so high, and is flat at the top. To the north of the bay, are three
+very conspicuous mountains; the westernmost is, to appearance, the highest;
+the next is the _volcano_ mountain, which may be known from the smoke that
+issues from its top, and likewise from some high table-hills connected with
+it, and stretching to the northward; these two are somewhat peaked. The
+third, and the most northerly, might perhaps be more properly called a
+cluster of mountains, as it presents to the sight several flat tops.
+
+When the navigator has got within the capes, and into the outward bay, a
+perpendicular head-land, with a lighthouse erected upon it, will point out
+the entrance of the bay of Awatska to the northward. To the eastward of
+this head-land lie many sunken rocks, stretching into the sea, to the
+distance of two or three miles; and which will shew themselves, if there be
+but a moderate sea or swell. Four miles to the south of the entrance lies a
+small round island, very distinguishable from being principally composed of
+high pointed rocks, with one of them strikingly remarkable, as being much
+larger, more peaked and perpendicular than the rest.
+
+It is no way necessary to be equally particular in the description of the
+bay itself, as of its approaches and environs; since no words can give the
+mariner a perfect idea of it. The entrance is at first near three miles
+wide, and in the narrowest part one mile and a half, and four miles long,
+in a N.N.W. direction. Within the mouth is a noble bason of twenty-five
+miles circuit, with the capacious harbours of Tareinska to the W., of
+Rakoweena to the E., and the small one of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, where
+we lay, to the N.
+
+Tareinska harbour is about three miles in breadth, and twelve in length; it
+stretches to the E.S.E., and is separated from the sea, at the bottom, by a
+narrow neck of land. The road into this harbour is perfectly free from
+rocks or shoals. We had never less than seven fathoms water, as far as our
+survey extended; for we were not able to get to the bottom of the harbour
+on account of the ice.
+
+The harbour of Rakoweena would deserve the preference over the other two,
+if its entrance were not impeded by a shoal lying in the middle of the
+channel; which, in general, will make it necessary to warp in, unless there
+be a leading wind. It is from one mile to half a mile in width, and three
+miles long, running at first in a S.E., and afterward in an easterly
+direction. Its depth is from thirteen to three fathoms.
+
+Saint Peter and Saint Paul's is one of the most convenient little harbours
+I ever saw. It will hold conveniently half a dozen ships, moored head and
+stern; and is fit for giving them any kind of repairs. The south side is
+formed by a low sandy neck, exceedingly narrow, on which the _ostrog_ is
+built; and whose point may almost be touched by ships going in, having
+three fathoms water close in with it. In the mid channel, which is no more
+than two hundred and seventy-eight feet across, there are six fathoms and a
+half; the deepest water within is seven fathoms; and in every part over a
+muddy bottom. We found some inconvenience from the toughness of the ground,
+which constantly broke the messenger, and gave us a great deal of trouble
+in getting up the anchors. There is a watering-place at the head of the
+harbour.
+
+The plan we drew points out the shoal to be avoided, lying off the eastern
+harbour, as well as the spit within the entrance, stretching from the S.W.
+shore, and over which there are only three fathoms water. In order to steer
+clear of the latter, a small island, or perhaps it may rather be called a
+large detached rock, lying on the west shore of the entrance, is to be shut
+in with the land to the south of it; and to steer clear of the former, the
+Three Needle Rocks, which lie on the east shore of the entrance near the
+light-house head, are to be kept open with the head-lands (or bluff-heads)
+that rise to the northward of the first small bay, or bending, observable
+on the east side of the entrance. When arrived to the north of the north
+head-land of the eastern harbour, the shoal is past.
+
+In sailing into the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, and approaching
+the village, it is necessary to keep in close to the eastern shore, in
+order to avoid a spit which runs from the head-land to the S.W. of the
+town.[41]
+
+Before I proceed to give a table of the result of our astronomical
+observations at this place, it may be proper to acquaint the reader, that
+the time-keeper we had on board the Resolution, which was an exact copy of
+that invented by Mr Harrison, and executed by Mr Kendal, stopped on the
+27th of April, a few days before we first came into Awatska Bay. It had
+been always kept with the most scrupulous care during the voyage, having
+never been trusted for a moment into any other hands than those of Captain
+Cook and mine. No accident could therefore have happened to it, to which we
+could attribute its stopping; nor could it have arisen from the effects of
+intense cold, as the thermometer was very little below the freezing point.
+As soon as the discovery was made, I consulted with Captain Clerke what
+course it was best to pursue; whether to let it remain as it was, entirely
+useless to us, for the purpose of satisfying the curious at home, where it
+was sure of being examined by proper judges, or suffer it to be inspected
+by a seaman on board, who had served a regular apprenticeship to a
+watchmaker in London, and appeared sufficiently knowing in the business,
+from his success in cleaning and repairing several watches since we had
+been out. The advantages we had derived from its accuracy, made us
+extremely unwilling to be deprived of its use during the remaining part of
+the voyage; and that object appeared to us to be of much greater importance
+than the small degree of probability, which we understood was all that
+could be expected, of obtaining any material knowledge respecting its
+mechanism, by deferring the inspection of it. At the same time, it should
+be remembered, that the watch had already a sufficient trial, both in the
+former voyage and during the three years we had now had it on board to
+ascertain its utility. On these considerations, we took the opportunity of
+the first clear day, after our arrival in Awatska Bay, of opening the
+watch, which was done in the captain's cabin, and in our presence. The
+watchmaker found no part of the work broken; but not being able to set it
+a-going, he proceeded to take off the cock and balance, and cleaned both
+the pivot-holes, which he found very foul, and the rest of the work rather
+dirty; he also took off the dial-plate; and, between two teeth of the wheel
+that carries the second-hand, found a piece of dirt, which he imagined to
+be the principal cause of its stopping. Having afterward put the work
+together, and oiled it as sparingly as possible, the watch appeared to go
+free and well.
+
+Having received orders the next day to go to Bolcheretsk, the time-keeper
+was left in the care of Mr Bayley, to compare it with his watch and clock,
+in order to get its rate. On my return, I was told it had gone for some
+days with tolerable regularity, losing only from fifteen to seventeen
+seconds a-day, when it stopped a second time. It was again opened, and the
+cause of its stopping appeared to be owing to the man having put some part
+of the work badly together when he first opened it. Being again adjusted,
+it was found to gain above a minute a-day; and, in the attempt to alter the
+regulator and balance-spring, he broke the latter. He afterward made a new
+spring; but the watch now went so irregularly, that we made no farther use
+of it. The poor fellow was not less chagrined than we were at our bad
+success; which, however, I am convinced, was more owing to the miserable
+tools he was obliged to work with, and the stiffness his hands had
+contracted from his ordinary occupation, than to his want of skill.
+
+For the satisfaction of those who may wish to have a general view of its
+rate of going, I have added the following table.
+
+The first and second columns contain the dates when, and the names of the
+places where its rate was observed. The third column contains the daily
+error of its rate, so found from mean time. The fourth column has the
+longitude of each place, according to the Greenwich rate; that is,
+calculated on a supposition that the time-keeper had not varied its rate
+from the time it left Greenwich. But as we had frequent opportunities of
+ascertaining the variation of its daily error, or finding its new rate, the
+fifth column has the longitude according to its last rate, calculated from
+the true longitude of the place last departed from. The sixth is the true
+longitude of the place deduced from astronomical observations made by
+ourselves, and compared with those made by others, whenever such could be
+obtained. The seventh column shews the difference between the fourth column
+and the sixth in space; and the eighth the same difference in time. The
+ninth shews the number of months and days in which the error, thus
+determined, had been accumulating. The difference between the fifth and
+sixth columns is found in the tenth, and shews the error of the time-
+keeper, according to its rate last found, in space; and the eleventh the
+same error in time. The twelfth contains the time elapsed in sailing from
+the place where the rate was last taken, to the place whose longitude is
+last determined. The thirteenth and fourteenth contain the state of the air
+at the time of each observation.
+
+As persons, unaccustomed to calculations of this sort, may find some
+difficulty in comprehending the nature of the table, the two following
+instances will more clearly explain it.
+
+Thus, on the 24th October, 1776, (first column,) at the Cape of Good Hope
+(second column,) we found the daily error, in the rate of its going, to be
+2",26 (third column.) The longitude of that place, calculated on a
+supposition that the rate of the time-keeper had continued the same from
+the time of our leaving Greenwich, that is, had a regular daily error of
+1",21, is found to be 18 deg. 26' 30" east (fourth column.) And as its rate at
+Greenwich is, in this instance, its latest rate, the longitude thus found
+is the same (fifth column.) The true longitude of the place is 18 deg. 23' 15"
+(sixth column.) From whence it appears, that in our run from Greenwich to
+the Cape, the watch would have led us into an error only of 3' 15" (seventh
+column,) or three miles one quarter; or had varied 13" of time (eighth
+column,) in four months twenty-three days (ninth column,) the period
+between our leaving Greenwich and our arrival at the Cape. As the Greenwich
+is the latest error, the tenth, eleventh, and twelfth columns, will be the
+same with the seventh and ninth.
+
+But, on the 23d of February, 1777, (first column,) at Queen Charlotte's
+Sound, New Zealand, (second column,) the daily error of its rate was found
+to be 2",91, (third column.) The longitude of this place, according to the
+Greenwich rate, is 175 deg. 25', (fourth column.) But having found at the Cape,
+that it had altered its rate from a daily error of 1",21, to 2",26, the
+longitude corrected by this new rate is found to be 174 deg. 44' 23", (fifth
+column.) The true longitude of the place being 174 deg. 23' 31", (sixth
+column;) it appears that, in our run from Greenwich to New Zealand, the
+error would have been only 1 deg. 1' 29", (seventh column,) or sixty-one miles
+and a half, even if we had not had an opportunity of correcting its daily
+error; or, in other words, that the watch had varied 4' 5",3, (eighth
+column,) in nine months four days, (ninth column.) But the longitude, as
+given by its new rate, leaves an error of only 30' 54", (tenth column,)
+near thirty-one miles, or, in time, 2' 3",6, (eleventh column,) which has
+been accumulating during our run from the Cape to New Zealand, or in four
+months nine days, (twelfth column.) The thirteenth and fourteenth columns
+require no explanation.
+
+
+TABLE of the Rate and Error of Mr Kendall's Watch on Board the Resolution.
+
+
+   I.  |       II.     |  III.  |   IV.    |   V.    |    VI.   |
+-------|---------------|--------|-------------------------------|
+       |               |        |          |         |          |
+       |               |Error of|Longitude |Longitude|True      |
+ TIME. |      PLACE.   | Daily  |by Green- |   by    |Longitude.|
+       |               | Rate.  |wich Rate.|New Rate.|          |
+       |               |        |          |         |          |
+       |               |        |          |         |          |
+-------|---------------|--------|----------|---------|----------|
+       |               |   "    |   deg.  '  " |   deg. '  " |   deg.  '  " |
+ 1776. |               |--------|----------|---------|----------|
+June 11|Greenwich      |-1,21   |  0  0 0E |  0  0 0E|  0  0 0E |
+Oct. 24|Cape of Good   |-2,26   | 18 26 30 | 18 26 30| 18 23 15 |
+       | Hope          |        |          |         |          |
+ 1777. |               |        |          |         |          |
+Feb. 22|Queen Char-    |        |          |         |          |
+       | lotte's Sound,|-2,91   |175 25  0 |174 54 25|174 23 31 |
+       | New Zealand   |        |          |         |          |
+May   7|Anamooka       |+0,52   |186 13 26 |186 13 15|185 11 18 |
+June  7|Anamooka       |-0,54   |186  8 28 |186 12 43|185 11 18 |
+July  1|Tongataboo     |-1,78   |185 48 50 |184 53  0|184 55 18 |
+Sept. 1|Otaheite       |-1,54   |211 41 26 |210 39  8|210 22 28 |
+Oct. 17|Huaheine       |-2,30   |210 14 52 |208 50 24|208 52 24 |
+Nov.  7|Ulietea        |-1,52   |209 42 54 |208 25 22|208 25 22 |
+ 1778. |               |        |          |         |          |
+Apr. 16|Nootka         |-7,0    |235 32 45 |233 56  0|233 17  8 |
+Oct. 14|Samganoodha    |-8,8    |197 44 15 |193 12 35|193 31 20 |
+ 1779. |               |        |          |         |          |
+Feb.  2|Owhyhee        |-9,6    |214  7 35 |203 37 22|204  0  0 |
+May   1|Saint Peter and|  T.K.  |          |         |          |
+       | Saint Paul,   | stopt. |173 86  0 |159 20  0|158 43 16 |
+       | Kamtschatka   |        |          |         |          |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------
+
+
+|   VII.  |  VIII.   | IX.  |   X.    |   XI.   | XII. |XIII.    |   XIV.|
+|-----------------------------------------------|------|---------|-------|
+|Accumulated Error by|      |Error by New Rate. |      |Thermo-  |  B    |
+|  Greenwich Rate.   |Length|                   |Length| meter.  |  a    |
+|--------------------|  of  |-------------------|  of  |---------|  r    |
+|         |          | Time.|         |         | Time.|         |  o    |
+|   In    |  In      |      |  In     |  In     |      |Gr. Least|  m    |
+|  Space. | Time.    |      | Space.  | Time.   |      | Height. |  e    |
+|---------|----------|------|---------|---------|------|---------|  t    |
+|  deg.   '  "|H. '  "   |Mo Da |   deg.  '  "| H '  "  | Mo Da|    |    |  er.  |
+|---------|----------|------|---------|---------|------|----|----|-------|
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+|+ 0  3 15|0  0 13,0 | 4 23 |+ 0  3 15|0  0 13,0| 4  23|  84|  63|  30, 0|
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+|  1  1 29|0  4  5,9 | 9  4 |+ 0 30 54|0  2  3,6| 4   9|  73|  53|  30, 0|
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+|  1  2  8|0  4  8,5 |11 22 |+ 1  1 57|0  4  7,8| 2  18|  83|  74|  30, 1|
+|  0 57 10|0  3 48,6 |12 25 |+ 1  1 25|0  4  5,6| 1   3|  79|  73|  30,15|
+|  0 53 32|0  3 34,1 |13 21 |- 0  2 18|0  0  9,2| 0  24|  85|  69|  30,15|
+|  1 18 58|0  5 15,8 |15 27 |+ 0 16 40|0  1  6,6| 2   6|  90|  70|  30, 1|
+|  1 22 28|0  5 29,8 |17 17 |- 0  2  0|0  0  8,0| 1  18|  90|  72|  29, 9|
+|  1 17 32|0  5 10,1 |18 10 |  0  0  0|0  0  0,0| 0  21|  92|  70|  29, 7|
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+|  2 15 27|0  9  1,8 |24  2 |+ 0 28 42|0  2 34,8| 5  20|  65|  41|  30, 0|
+|  4 12 55|0 16 51,6 |30 15 |- 0 18 45|0  1 15,0| 6  13|  57|  36|  20,15|
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+| 10  7 35|0 40 30,3 |34 14 |- 0 22 38|0  1 30,5| 3  27|  88|  70|  29, 8|
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+| 14 52 44|0 59 30,9 |37 18 |- 0 36 44|0  2 16,9| 3   4|    |    |       |
+|         |          |      |         |         |      |    |    |       |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------
+
+
+From this view of the time-keeper it appears, that for near two years it
+altered its rate very inconsiderably, and therefore that its error,
+according to the Greenwich rate, if we had had no opportunities of
+correcting it, amounted only to 2-1/4 deg.. That afterward, at King George's
+Sound, or Nootka, it was found to have varied exceedingly; of course, the
+longitude, by its Greenwich rate, was becoming considerably erroneous.
+About this time, it should be remarked, the thermometer was varying from
+65 deg. to 41 deg.. The greatest alteration we ever observed in the watch was,
+during the three weeks we were cruising to the N.; in which interval, it
+gave the longitude of the East Cape with a difference of twenty-eight
+miles, I have marked the longitude of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, as given
+by the time-keeper, notwithstanding it stopped a few days before we arrived
+there; this I was enabled to do, from comparing the longitude it gave the
+day before it stopped, with that given by Mr Bayley's watch, and allowing
+for the error of the latter.
+
+The use of so accurate a measure of time is sufficiently evident, from its
+furnishing in itself the means of approximating to the longitude at sea, as
+may be seen in the above table. But, besides this, we were enabled, by the
+same means, to give a degree of accuracy to the lunar observations, which
+they cannot otherwise pretend to; and, at the same time, by reducing a
+number of those observations to one time, obtain results approaching still
+nearer to the truth. In surveying coasts, and ascertaining the true
+position of capes and head-lands, it reaches the utmost degree of practical
+exactness. On the other hand, it is to be observed, that lunar
+observations, in their turn, are absolutely necessary, in order to reap the
+greatest possible advantages from the time-keeper; since, by ascertaining
+the true longitude of places, they discover the error of its rate. The
+original observations that were made in the course of this voyage, have
+been published by order of the Board of Longitude, and to those I must
+refer the reader, for his further information on this subject.
+
+N.B. The observatories were placed on the west side of the village of Saint
+Peter and Saint Paul.
+
+
+Latitude deduced from meridian zenith
+  distances of the sun, and of five stars
+  to the S., and five to the N. of the
+  zenith                                     53 deg.  0' 38" N.
+Longitude deduced from one hundred
+  and forty-six sets of lunar observations  158  43  16  E.
+Longitudy by time-keeper, according to
+  its Greenwich rate                        173  36   0
+Longitude by time-keeper, according to
+  its rate found at Owhyhee                 159  20   0
+Variation of the compass, by azimuths
+  taken with three compasses, made by
+  Knight, Gregory, and Martin                 6  18  40  E.
+Dip of the North Pole of the magnetic
+  needle, being a mean of the observations
+  taken in June and September                63   5   0
+
+
+It was high water, on the full and change of the moon, at thirty-six
+minutes past four, and the greatest rise was five feet eight inches. The
+tides were very regular every twelve hours. On the coast, near the bay, the
+flood came from the S., and the time of high water was near two hours
+sooner than in the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul.
+
+
+
+[35] See all that is known of this voyage, and a chart of discoveries, in
+    Mr Coxe's Account of Russian-Discoveries between Asia and America. We
+    were not able to learn from the Russians in Kamtschatka, a more
+    perfect account of Synd than we now find is given by Mr Coxe; and yet
+    they seemed disposed to communicate all that they really knew. Major
+    Behm could only inform us, in general, that the expedition had
+    miscarried as to its object, and that the commander had fallen under
+    much blame. It appeared evidently that he had been on the coast of
+    America, to the southward of Cape Prince of Wales, between the
+    latitudes 64 deg. and 65 deg. and it is most probable that his having got too
+    far to the northward to meet with sea-otters, which the Russians, in
+    all their attempts at discoveries, seem to have principally, in view,
+    and his returning without having made any that promised commercial
+    advantages, was the cause of his disgrace, and of the great contempt
+    with which the Russians always spoke of this officer's voyage.
+
+    The cluster of islands placed in Synd's chart, between the latitudes
+    of 61 deg. and 65 deg., is undoubtedly the same with the island called by
+    Beering St Laurence's, and those we named Clerke's, Anderson's, and
+    King's Islands; but their proportionate size, and relative situation,
+    are exceedingly erroneous.
+
+[36] By some strange anomaly in human nature, it would seem as if, in many
+    cases, the apprehension of danger is in the inverse proportion of the
+    amount of evil to be dreaded, or of the probability of its happening.
+    Thus, the good people at Saint Peter and Saint Paul, who have but very
+    little more reason to expect the intrusion of enemies, than if they
+    dwelt in the regions of the North Pole, exhibit a remarkable degree of
+    unnecessary suspicion on the occurrence of the most harmless, nay the
+    most beneficial events. In addition to what is recorded in this
+    voyage, we may mention an evidence of it in the case of Captain
+    Krusenstern's last arrival among them, which happened sooner than they
+    had looked for, notwithstanding his having previously intimated it. On
+    the appearance of his vessel, the people immediately concluded it was
+    an enemy, and some families began to fly with their effects to the
+    neighbouring mountains. To them it seemed more natural, that some
+    hostile power should send a vessel half round the globe in order to
+    conquer a miserable spot, whose only riches was a few dried fish, and
+    where a crew could scarcely subsist for two months, than that the ship
+    in sight should belong to a friend whose arrival they had been
+    instructed to expect. Nor were their fears quieted, till the solemn
+    and strongly urged opinion of the soldier on duty, who, from his
+    having been a companion of Captain Billing's, had the reputation of
+    much knowledge in such matters, induced them to believe, that the form
+    and rigging of the ship could be no other than those of their old
+    acquaintance the Nadeshda!--E.
+
+[37] The singular personage here spoken of, was living near Saint Peter and
+    Saint Paul in 1805, when Captain Krusenstern arrived there. He was at
+    that time eighty-six years old, and had but lately obtained his
+    liberty from the present emperor, who, besides other bounty, granted
+    him a sum of money to cover his travelling expenses, if he chose to
+    return to St Petersburg. The old man, however, was unable to bring his
+    mind to undertake the journey, or even to venture the sea with
+    Krusenstern; and in all probability, therefore, would end his days in
+    the land of his captivity. We learn from the same authority, that
+    Iwashkin had been banished in consequence of a report, apparently an
+    unfounded one, that he had been engaged in a conspiracy against the
+    Empress Elizabeth; and he is said to have been afterwards refused a
+    pardon by Catharine, because he had been accused of murdering a man in
+    the heat of passion. But for this circumstance, according to K., "the
+    terms in which he is mentioned in Cook's voyage are such, as would not
+    fail to meet with attention in Russia." These few additional
+    particulars may add to whatever of interest is felt in Captain Kind's
+    account of this exile. And even this may be enhanced to the
+    susceptible mind by the remark, that old and worn out as Iwashkin
+    appeared to Captain King, he nevertheless survived him at least twenty
+    years, as the latter died at Nice, in Italy, in 1784.--E.
+
+[38] It may not be ill-timed to mention here, what Captain Krusenstern says
+    as to the scarcity of gunpowder in Kamtschatka, to which Captain King
+    alludes in his account of bear-hunting. It is owing to the deficiency
+    of this article, that the inhabitants are so seldom provided with
+    certain luxuries of the table, as the wild sheep, or _argalis_, rein-
+    deer, hares, ducks, and geese, with most or all of which the country
+    is tolerably well stocked. The conveyance of this most useful material
+    from the provinces of European Russia, is both difficult and exposed
+    to different accidents; such as getting wet, or, what is still worse,
+    taking fire; in consequence of which latter occurrence, it is said,
+    whole villages have been destroyed. To prevent this mischief, as much
+    as possible, we are informed, that gunpowder is now forbidden to be
+    brought for private sale. This prohibition, as is usual in all such
+    cases, is often evaded, and, by augmenting the price of the article,
+    of course excites the stronger disposition on the part of the merchant
+    to introduce it. The Kamtschadale, therefore, purchases powder
+    secretly, and at a very high price; he uses it sparingly, and that
+    only for defence against bears; or to kill some animal, whose skin he
+    knows will repay the cost of getting it. As, in many respects, it is
+    an article of indispensable necessity, and as therefore the people
+    must have it in some way or other, Captain Krusenstern recommends,
+    that, with many other commodities, it should be sent from
+    Cronstadt.--E.
+
+[39] The reader will probably not dislike to see another instance of the
+    bear's cunning, in the mode of catching a peculiar sort of fish called
+    _kachly_, which abounds in Kamtschatka, and of which he is exceedingly
+    fond. We are told by Krusenstern, that as soon as this animal
+    perceives the shoals of _kachly_ going up the river, he places himself
+    in the water, within a short distance of the bank, and in such a
+    position of his legs, as that the fish, which always goes straight
+    forward, may have just space enough to pass between them. He then
+    watches his opportunity, when a good many have entered the snare, to
+    press his legs together, so as to inclose his prey, with which, at one
+    spring, he jumps on shore, where he devours them at his leisure. This
+    practice is much to be commended for the spirit of independence it
+    indicates; but not so another one, which some authors have charged
+    against these sagacious animals, viz. dragging the fishermen's nets
+    out of the water, during their absence, and then robbing them of the
+    fish they contained. Mr Bingley's Animal Biography, where this piece
+    of pilfering is mentioned, may be advantageously consulted for several
+    amusing notices respecting the habits and capabilities of this
+    creature, which are quite in unison with Captain King's account.--E.
+
+[40] The interest of the following passage, from the account of
+    Krusenstern's voyage, will form the only apology necessary for the
+    largeness of the space it occupies. "As it was evident, upon our
+    arrival, that the many things necessary to be done on board, would
+    occupy a space of not less than four or five weeks, the officers of
+    the ship had formed a plan of renewing the monument which had been
+    erected to Captain Clerke. From Cook's and La Perouse's voyage, it is
+    well known that Clerke was buried in the town of Saint Peter and St
+    Saint Paul, under a large tree, to which a board, with an inscription,
+    was affixed, mentioning his death, his age and rank, and the object of
+    the expedition, in which he lost his life. We found the escutcheon,
+    painted by Webber, the draughtsman of the Resolution, and suspended by
+    Captain King in the church at Paratunka, in the portico of Major
+    Krupskoy's house, nor did any one appear to know what connection it
+    had with this painted board; and as there has been no church for many
+    years either in Paratunka or Saint Peter and Saint Paul, it was very
+    fortunate that the escutcheon was not entirely lost. La Perouse,
+    finding the board on the tree rotting very fast, had the inscription
+    copied on a plate of copper, adding, that it had been restored by him;
+    and as this inscription is not given in Cook's voyage, and every thing
+    relative to him and his companion must be interesting to all, I cannot
+    avoid transcribing it here from La Perouse's copy.
+
+    "At The Root Of This Tree Lies The Body Of
+               Captain Charles Clerke,
+    Who Succeeded To The Command Of His Britannic
+          Majesty's Ships, The Resolution And
+    Discovery, On The Death Of Captain James Cook, Who
+         Was Unfortunately Killed By The Natives
+              At An Island In The South Sea
+      On The 14TH Of February In The Year 1779,
+    And Died At Sea Of A Lingering Consumption The
+          22ND August In The Same Year, Aged 38.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+    "Copie sur l'inscription Angloise par ordre de M^r le C^{te} de la
+    Perouse chef d'Escadre, en 1787.
+
+    "This plate La Perouse caused to be nailed on the wooden monument. We
+    found it there, although it had more than once been removed. The
+    monument itself, however, appeared to promise but short duration; for
+    the tree, which was more than half decayed, could not stand above a
+    few years longer, and it was become necessary to raise a more durable
+    one to Cook's companion. We also found the coffin, containing the
+    remains of De Lisle de la Croyere, as we were digging up the ground, a
+    few paces from Clerke's tomb, after having long sought for it in vain.
+    La Perouse had erected a monument to him also; and, upon a copper-
+    plate, had engraved an inscription, containing a few of the
+    particulars of his life. Of this there was not the least vestige
+    remaining, though no longer space than eighteen years had since
+    elapsed. The _memento_ of these two persons, equally skilled in the
+    science of navigation, and who had both lost their lives in one of the
+    most inhospitable quarters of the globe, could now be united in one
+    monument; and, for this purpose, a durable pedestal of wood was
+    erected as near as possible to the old tree, in order still to
+    preserve the locality; and over this a pyramid; on one side of which,
+    the plate, which La Perouse had engraved, was fastened; and on the
+    opposite side, a copy of Captain Clerke's escutcheon, made for the
+    occasion by M. Tilesius. On the other two sides were the following
+    inscriptions, in Russian: 'In the first voyage round the world,
+    undertaken by the Russians, under the command of Captain Krusenstern,
+    the officers of the ship Nadeshda erected this monument to the memory
+    of the English captain, Clerke, on the 15th September 1805.'
+
+    "And on the side facing the south: 'Here rest the ashes of De Lisle de
+    la Croyere, the astronomer attached to the expedition commanded by
+    Commodore Behring, in the year 1741.'
+
+    "This monument was constructed under the direction of Lieutenant
+    Ratmanoff; and his anxiety to complete it previous to our departure,
+    made him overcome every difficulty in the way of such an undertaking
+    in Kamtschatka. It would have been an injustice in me not to have
+    supported and contributed by all the means in my power to its
+    completion; and as I gave them not only workmen, but also such
+    materials as we had on board the ship, we had the satisfaction of
+    seeing it entirely completed previous to our departure. A deep ditch
+    surrounded the whole; and, in order to screen it against any
+    accidental injury, it was inclosed in a high paling, the door of which
+    was to be kept constantly locked, and the key to remain in the hands
+    of the governor of Saint Peter and Saint Paul."
+
+    Every heart that is capable of humane emotions will respect this
+    labour infinitely beyond either the magnitude or the importance of its
+    effects, and will gladly applaud the virtuous sentiment that prompts
+    generous minds, in defiance of the narrow and perishable distinction
+    of name and nation, to reverence the kindred excellence and the common
+    lot of their fellow creatures.--E.
+
+[41] Every reader will be pleased to learn, that Krusenstern bears ample
+    testimony to the general accuracy of Captain King's drawings and
+    descriptions of the bay, &c. This intimation is probably sufficient
+    for most persons, without any special exemplification of the
+    coincidences betwixt these two writers.--F.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION VI.
+
+
+General Account of Kamtschatka.--Geographical Description.--Rivers.--
+Soil.--Climate.--Volcanoes.--Hot Springs.--Productions.--Vegetables.--
+Animals.--Birds.--Fish.[42]
+
+
+Kamtschatka is the name of a peninsula situated on the eastern coast of
+Asia, running nearly N. and S., from 52 deg. to 6l deg. N. latitude; the longitude
+of its southern extremity being 156 deg. 45' E. The isthmus, which joins it to
+the continent on the N., lies between the Gulf of Olutorsk and the Gulf of
+Penshinsk. Its southern extremity is Cape Lopatka, a word signifying the
+blade bone of a man, and is so called from its supposed resemblance to it.
+The shape of the whole peninsula is not unlike that of a shoe, widening
+from the toe (which we may suppose to be Cape Lopatka) toward the middle,
+and narrowing again toward the heel, the neck of land above mentioned
+connecting it with the continent. Its greatest breadth is from the mouth of
+the river Tigil to that of Kamtschatka, and is computed to be two hundred
+and thirty-six miles, from whence it narrows very gradually toward each
+extremity.
+
+It is bounded on the N. by the country of the Koriacks; to the S. and E.,
+by the North Pacific Ocean; and to the W., by the sea of Okotzk. A chain of
+high mountains stretches the whole length of the country, from N. to S.,
+dividing it nearly into two equal parts, from whence a great number of
+rivers take their rise, and empty themselves, on each side, into the
+Pacific Ocean and the sea of Okotzk.
+
+There are three rivers of much greater magnitude than the rest; the
+Bolchoireka, or great river, so called from bolchoia, which signifies
+great, and reka, a river; the river Kamtschatka, and the Awatska. The first
+empties itself into the sea of Okotzk, and is navigable for the Russian
+galliots upwards of five leagues from its mouth, or within nine miles of
+Bolcheretsk, a town situated at the conflux of the Goltsoffka and the
+Bistraia, which here lose themselves in the Bolchoireka. The Bistraia
+itself is no inconsiderable river. It derives its source from the same
+mountain with the river Kamtschatka, and, by taking a direct contrary
+course, affords the Kamtschadales the means of transporting their goods by
+water in small canoes, almost across the whole peninsula. The river
+Kamtschatka, after maintaining a course of near three hundred miles from S.
+to N.. winds round to the eastward; in which direction it empties itself
+into the ocean, a little to the southward of Kamtschatkoi Noss. Near the
+mouth of the Kamtschatka to the N.W., lies the great lake called Nerpitsch,
+from nerpi, a Kamtschadale word, signifying a seal, with which this lake
+abounds. About twenty miles up the river, reckoning from the mouth of the
+lake, is a fort called Nishnei Kamtschatka ostrog, where the Russians have
+built an hospital and barracks; and which, we were informed, is become the
+principal mart in this country.
+
+The river Awatska rises from the mountains situated between the Bolchoireka
+and the Bistraia, and running, from N.W. to S.E., a course of one hundred
+miles, falls into the bay of Awatska. The Tigil is likewise a river of
+considerable size, rising amidst some very high mountains, which lie under
+the same parallel with Kamtschatkoi Noss, and running in an even course
+from S.E. to N.W., falls into the sea at Okotzk. All the other rivers of
+this peninsula, which are almost infinite in number, are too small to
+deserve a particular enumeration.
+
+If I may judge of the soil, from what I saw of its vegetable productions, I
+should not hesitate in pronouncing it barren in the extreme. Neither in the
+neighbourhood of the bay, nor in the country I traversed on my journey to
+Bolcheretsk, nor in any of our hunting expeditions, did I ever meet with
+the smallest spot of ground that resembled what in England is called a good
+green turf; or that seemed as if it could be turned to any advantage,
+either in the way of pasturage, or other mode of cultivation. The face of
+the country in general was thinly covered with stunted trees, having a
+bottom of moss, mixed, with low weak heath. The whole bore a more striking
+resemblance to Newfoundland, than to any other part of the world I had ever
+seen.
+
+It must however be observed, that I saw at Paratounca three or four stacks
+of sweet and very fine-looking hay; and Major Behm informed me, that many
+parts of the peninsula, particularly the banks of the river Kamtschatka and
+the Bistraia, produce grass of great height and strength, which they cut
+twice in the summer; and that the hay is of a succulent quality, and
+particularly well adapted to the fattening of cattle. Indeed it should
+appear, from the size and fatness of the thirty-six head that were sent
+down to us from the Verchnei ostrog, and which, we were told, were bred and
+fattened in the neighbourhood, that they must have had the advantage of
+both good pastures and meadows. For it is worth our notice, that the first
+supply we received, consisting of twenty, came to us just at the close of
+the winter, and before the snow was off the ground, and therefore probably
+had tasted nothing but hay for the seven preceding months. And this agrees
+with what is related by Krascheninnikoff, that there is no part of the
+country equal in fertility to that which borders on the river Kamtschatka;
+and that to the N. and S. it is much inferior both in point of soil and
+climate. He relates, that repeated experiments have been made in the
+culture of oats, barley, and rye, in different quarters near this river,
+which have generally succeeded; that, in particular, some persons belonging
+to the convent of Jakutzk, who had settled in that part of the country, had
+sown barley there, which had yielded an extraordinary increase; and he has
+no doubt but that wheat, in many parts, particularly near the source of the
+Bistraia and Kamtschatka, would grow as well as in the generality of
+countries situated in the same latitude. Perhaps the superior fertility of
+the country here spoken of, may, in a great measure, be accounted for, from
+its lying in that part of the peninsula which is by much the widest, and
+consequently farthest removed from the sea, on each side. The moist
+chilling fogs and drizzling weather which prevail almost perpetually along
+the coast, must necessarily render the parts adjacent very unfit for all
+the purposes of agriculture.[43]
+
+It is natural to suppose, that the severity of the climate must be in due
+proportion to the general sterility of the soil, of which it is probably
+the cause. The first time we saw this country was in the beginning of May,
+1779, when the whole face of it was covered with snow, from six to eight
+feet deep. On the 6th we had snow, with the wind from the N.E. On the 8th
+of May, at noon, the thermometer stood at 32 deg.; and the same day some of our
+men were sent on shore to try to cut wood, but the snow was still so deep
+on the ground, as to render all their attempts fruitless. Nor was it found
+practicable to proceed in this necessary business, with all the efforts of
+a very stout party, till the 12th, at which time the thaw began to advance
+gradually. The sides of the hills were now in some places free from snow;
+and, by the beginning of June, it was generally melted from the low lands.
+On the 15th of June, the day we sailed out of the harbour, the thermometer
+had never risen higher than 58 deg., nor the barometer than 30 deg. 04'. The winds
+blew almost invariably from the eastward during our stay, and the S.E. was
+more prevalent than any other.
+
+On our return, the 24th of August, the foliage of the trees, and all other
+sorts of vegetation, seemed to be in the utmost state of perfection. For
+the remainder of this month, and through September, the weather was very
+changeable, but in no respect severe. The winds at the beginning of the
+month were for the most part easterly, after which they got round to the W.
+The greatest height of the thermometer was 65 deg., the lowest 40 deg.. The
+barometer's greatest height 30 deg., its lowest 29,3. So that upon the whole,
+during this month, an equal and moderate degree of temperature prevailed.
+But at the beginning of October, the tops of the hills were again covered
+with new-fallen snow, the wind continuing westerly.
+
+In computing the seasons, the spring ought certainly not to be taken into
+the account. From the middle of June to the middle of September, may be
+properly said to constitute the summer. October may be considered as an
+autumnal month; from thence, to the middle of June, it is perfect winter.
+It was toward the end of May that we made our journey between Bolcheretsk
+and Awatska, over the snow in sledges.
+
+It is said, that the climate in the country adjoining to the river
+Kamtschatka, is not less serene and temperate, than in many parts of
+Siberia that are under the same latitude. This variation is probably owing
+to the same causes, to which the superior fertility of the soil in those
+parts has been before attributed. But it is not in the sterility of the
+ground alone, that the Kamtschadales feel the unfavourable temperature of
+their climate. The uncertainty of the summer season sometimes prevents
+their laying up a sufficient stock of dried fish for their winter's
+provision, and the moisture of the air causes worms to breed in them, which
+not unfrequently destroy the greatest part.
+
+I do not remember that we had either thunder or lightning during our stay,
+excepting on the night of the eruption of the volcano; and, from the
+account of the inhabitants, they are very seldom troubled with storms of
+this kind, and never but in a slight degree. The general severity of the
+winter, as well as the dreadful hurricanes of wind and snow that season
+brings along with it, cannot be questioned, from the subterraneous
+habitations the natives are under a necessity of retiring to, for warmth
+and security. Major Behm told us, that the cold and inclemency of the
+winter of 1779 was such, that for several weeks all intercourse between the
+inhabitants was entirely stopped, every one being afraid to stir even from
+one house to another, for fear of being frost-bitten. This extraordinary
+rigour of climate, in so low a latitude, may be accounted for from its
+being situated to the east of an immense uncultivated tract of country, and
+from the prevalence of the westerly winds, blowing over so extensive and
+cold a continent. The extraordinary violence and impetuosity of the winds
+is attributed to the subterraneous fires, the sulphureous exhalations, and
+the general volcanic disposition of the country.
+
+This peninsula abounds in volcanos, of which only three have, for some time
+past, been subject to eruptions. We have already mentioned that which is
+situated in the neighbourhood of Awatska. Besides this, there are others
+not less remarkable, according to the account given of them by
+Krascheninnikoff.
+
+The volcano of Tolbatchick is situated on a neck of ground between the
+river of Kamtschatka and Tolbatchick. The mountain, from the summit of
+which, the eruptions proceed, is of a considerable height, and terminated
+in pointed rocks. In the beginning of the year 1739, there issued from it a
+whirlwind of flames, which reduced to ashes the forests of the neighbouring
+mountains. This was succeeded by a cloud of smoke, which spread over and
+darkened the whole country, till it was dissipated by a shower of cinders,
+that covered the ground to the distance of thirty miles. Mr
+Krascheninnikoff, who was at this time on a journey from Bolchoireka to the
+Kamtschatka ostrog, at no great distance from the mountain, relates that
+the eruption was preceded by an alarming sound in the woods, which he
+thought the forerunner of some dreadful storm or hurricane, till three
+shocks of an earthquake, at about a minute's interval of each, convinced
+him of its real cause; but that he was hindered from approaching nearer the
+mountain, by the cinders that fell, and prevented him from proceeding on
+his journey.
+
+The third volcano is on the top of the mountain of Kamtschatka, which is
+mentioned as by far the highest in the peninsula. A thick smoke never
+ceases to ascend from its summit, and it has frequent eruptions, of the
+most violent and dreadful kind; some of which were much talked of, and
+seemed to be fresh in the memories of the Kamtschadales.
+
+The country is likewise said to contain numerous springs of hot water. The
+only one that I had an opportunity of seeing was at Natcheekin ostrog, and
+hath been already described. Krascheninnikoff makes mention of several
+others, and also of two very extraordinary pits, or wells, at the bottom of
+which the water is seen to boil as in a cauldron, with prodigious force and
+impetuosity; at the same time a dreadful noise issues out of them, and so
+thick a vapour, that a man cannot see through it.
+
+Of the trees which fell under our notice, the principal are the birch, the
+poplar, the alder, (with the bark of which they stain their leather,) many
+species of the willow, but all small; and two kinds of dwarfish pines or
+cedars.[44] One of these grows upon the coast, creeping along the ground,
+and seldom exceeds two feet in height. It was of this sort we made our
+essence for beer, and found it excellent for the purpose. The other grows
+on the mountains, to a greater height, and bears a small nut, or apple. We
+were told by the old _Toion_ at Saint Peter and Saint Paul, that Beering,
+during the time he lay in that harbour, first taught them the use of the
+decoction of these pines, and that it proved a most excellent remedy for
+the scurvy; but, whether from the great scarcity of sugar, or from what
+other cause, we could not learn, we were sorry to find that it was no
+longer in use amongst them.
+
+The birch was by far the most common tree we saw; and of this we remarked
+three sorts. Two of them fit for timber, and differing only in the texture
+and colour of the bark; the third of a dwarfish kind. This tree is applied
+to a great variety of uses by the inhabitants. The liquor which, on
+tapping, it yields in great abundance, they drink without mixture, or any
+preparation, as we had frequent opportunities of observing upon our journey
+to Bolcheretsk; and found it ourselves pleasant and refreshing, but
+somewhat purgative. The bark they convert into vessels, for almost all
+their domestic and kitchen purposes; and it is of the wood of this tree the
+sledges and canoes are also made.[45]
+
+The birch, and every other kind of tree in the neighbourhood of the bay,
+were small and stunted; and they are obliged to go many miles up into the
+country, for wood of a proper size to work into canoes, for the principal
+timbers of their _balagans_, and the like uses.
+
+Besides the trees above-mentioned, Krascheninnikoff relates, that the larch
+grows on the banks of the river Kamtschatka, and of those that fall into
+it, but no where else; and that there are firs in the neighbourhood of the
+river Berezowa; that there is likewise the service-tree (_padus foliis
+annuis_;) and two species of the white thorn, one bearing a red, the other
+a black berry.
+
+Of the shrub kind, as junipers, the mountain-ash, wild rose-trees, and
+raspberry bushes, the country produces great abundance; together with a
+variety of berries; blue berries of two sorts, round and oval; partridge-
+berries, cranberries, crow-berries, and black-berries. These the natives
+gather at proper seasons, and preserve, by boiling them into a thick jam,
+without sugar. They make no inconsiderable part of their winter provisions,
+and are used as sauce to their dried and salt fish; of which kind of food
+they are unquestionably excellent correctives. They likewise eat them by
+themselves in puddings and various other ways, and make decoctions of them
+for their ordinary liquor.
+
+We met with several wholesome vegetables in a wild state, and in great
+quantities; such as wild celery, angelica, chervil, garlic, and onions.
+Upon some few patches of ground in the vallies, we found excellent turnips
+and turnip-radishes. Their garden cultivation went no farther; yet from
+hence I am led to conclude, that many of the hardy sorts of vegetables,
+(such at least as push their roots downward,) like as carrots; parsnips,
+and beet, and perhaps potatoes, would thrive tolerably well. Major Behm
+told me, that some other sorts of kitchen vegetables had been tried, but
+did not answer; that neither any of the cabbage or lettuce kind would ever
+head; and that peas and beans shot up very vigorous stalks, flowered and
+podded, but the pods never filled. He likewise told me, that in the
+experiments made by himself at Bolcheretsk, with different sorts of
+farinaceous grain, there generally came up a very high and strong blade,
+which eared, but that the ears never yielded flour.
+
+This short account of the vegetable production reaches to such parts of the
+country only as fell within our notice, In the neighbourhood of the
+Kamtschatka river, where (as has been observed) both the soil and climate
+are by much the best in the whole peninsula, garden culture is attended to,
+and probably with great success, as appears from our having received, at
+the same time with the second drove of cattle from Verchnei, a present of
+cucumbers, of very large fine turnips, celery, and some other garden-stuff,
+of which I do not recollect the kinds.
+
+There are two plants, which, from the great use made of them, merit a
+particular mention and description. The first is called by the natives
+_sarana_, and by botanists, _Lilium Kamtskatiense flore atro rubente_.[46]
+The stem is about the thickness of that of the tulip, and grows to the
+height of five inches, is of a purple colour toward the bottom, and green
+higher up, and hath growing from it two tier of leaves of an oval figure,
+the lowest consisting of three leaves, the uppermost of four, in the form
+of a cross; from the top of the stalk grows a single flower, of an
+exceedingly dark red colour, in shape resembling the flower, of the
+narcissus, only much smaller; from the centre of the flower rises a style
+of a triangular form, and obtuse at the end, which is surrounded by six
+white stamina, whose extremities are yellow. The root is of the bulbous
+kind, and resembles in shape that of garlic, being much of the same size,
+but rounder, and having, like that, four or five cloves hanging together.
+The plant grows wild, and in considerable abundance; the women are employed
+in collecting the roots at the beginning of August, which are afterward
+dried in the sun, and then laid up for use. On our second arrival, this
+harvest was just over, and had fallen much short of its usual produce. It
+is a common observation amongst the Kamtschadales, that the bounty of
+Providence never fails them, for that such seasons as are most hurtful to
+the _sarana_, are always the most favourable for fishing; and that, on the
+contrary, a bad fishing month is always made up by the exuberance of the
+_sarana_ harvest. It is used in cookery in various ways. When roasted in
+embers, it supplies the place of bread better than any thing the country
+affords. After being baked in an oven and pounded, it becomes an excellent
+substitute for flour and meal of every sort; and in this form is mixed in
+all their soups, and most of their other dishes. It is esteemed extremely
+nourishing, has a pleasant bitter taste, and may be eaten every day without
+cloying. We used to boil these roots, and eat them as potatoes, either
+alone, or with our meat, and found them very wholesome and pleasant. It has
+been already mentioned, that this useful plant grows also at Oonalashka,
+where the roots of it are used, and constitute a considerable part of their
+food, in like manner as in Kamtschatka.
+
+The other plant alluded to is called the sweet grass; the botanical
+description is _Heracleum Sibericum foliis pinnatis, foliolis quinis,
+intermediis sessilibus, corollulis uniformibus_. Hort. Upsal. 65. The time,
+I took particular notice of it, was in May, when it was about a foot and a
+half high, had much the appearance of sedge, and was covered with a white
+down, or dust, which looked exceedingly like the hoar frost hanging upon
+it, and might be rubbed off; it tasted as sweet as sugar; but was hot and
+pungent. The stalk is hollow, and consists of three or four joints; from
+each of which arise large leaves, and when at its full growth, is six feet
+high.
+
+This plant was formerly a principal ingredient in the cookery of most of
+the Kamtschadale dishes; but since the Russians got possession of the
+country, it has been almost entirely appropriated to the purpose of
+distillation. The manner in which it is gathered, prepared, and afterward
+distilled, is as follows:--Having cut such stalks as have leaves growing on
+them, of a proper age, (the principal stem, by the time the plant has
+attained its full growth, having become too dry for their purpose,) and
+scraped off with shells the downy substance on their surface, they are laid
+in small heaps, till they begin to sweat and smell. On growing dry again,
+they put them into sacks, made of matting; where, after remaining a few
+days, they are gradually covered with a sweet saccharine powder, which
+exudes from the hollow of the stalk. From thirty-six pounds of the plant in
+this state, they obtain no more than a quarter of a pound of powder. The
+women, whose province it is to collect and prepare the materials, are
+obliged to defend their hands with gloves whilst they are scraping the
+stalks; the rind they remove, being of so acrid a quality as to blister,
+and even ulcerate, whatever it touches.
+
+The spirit is drawn from the plant in this state by the following
+process:--After steeping bundles of it in hot water, they promote its
+fermentation in a small vessel, by the help of berries of the
+_gimolost_,[47] or of the _golubitsa_,[48] being careful to close up well
+the mouth of the vessel, and to keep it in a warm place whilst the
+fermentation is going on, which is generally so violent as to occasion a
+considerable noise, and to agitate the vessel in which it is contained.
+After drawing off this first liquor, they pour on more hot water, and make
+a second in the same manner. They then pour both liquor and herbs into a
+copper still, and draw off the spirit after the usual method. The liquor
+thus obtained is of the strength of brandy; and is called by the natives
+_raka_. Two pood (seventy-two pounds) of the plant yield generally one
+vedro (twenty-five pints) of _raka_.
+
+Steller says, that the spirit distilled from this plant, unscraped, is
+exceedingly prejudicial to the health, and produces the most sudden and
+terrible nervous effects.
+
+Besides these, Krascheninnikoff mentions a variety of other plants, from
+whence the inhabitants prepare several decoctions; and which, being mixed
+with their fish, make palatable and wholesome ragouts. Such as the
+_kipri_,[49] with which is brewed a pleasant common beverage; and, by
+boiling this plant and the sweet herb together, in the proportion of one to
+five of the latter, and fermenting the liquor in the ordinary way, is
+obtained a strong and excellent vinegar. The leaves of it are used instead
+of tea, and the pith is dried and mixed in many of their dishes; the
+_morkovai_,[50] which is very like angelica; the _kotkorica,[51] the root
+of which they eat indifferently, green or dried; the _ikoum_,[52] the
+_utchichlei_,[53] which is much eaten with fish; with many others.
+
+It is said, that the Kamtschadales (before their acquaintance with fire-
+arms) poisoned their spears and arrows with the juice of the root of the
+_zgate_;[54] and that wounds inflicted by them are equally destructive to
+land and marine animals. The Tschutski are reported to use the same drug
+for this purpose at present.
+
+I shall conclude this part of the natural history of Kamtschatka with an
+account, from the same author, of three plants, which furnish the materials
+of all their manufactures. The first is the _triticum radice perenni
+spiculis binis lanuginosis_,[55] which grows in abundance along the coast.
+Of the straw of this grass they make a strong sort of matting, which they
+use not only for their floors, but for sacks, bedclothes, curtains, and a
+variety of other domestic purposes. Of the same materials they also make
+very neat little bags and baskets, of different forms, and for various
+uses.
+
+The plant called _bolotnaia_, which grows in the marshes, and resembles
+_cyperoides_, is gathered in the autumn, and carded like wool, with a comb
+made of the bones of the sea-swallow; with this, in lieu of linen and
+woollen clothes, they swathe their new-born infants, and use it for a
+covering next the skin whilst they are young. It is also made into a kind
+of wadding, and used for the purpose of giving additional warmth to various
+parts of their clothing.
+
+There remains still a vulgar and well-known plant, which, as it contributes
+more effectually to their subsistence, than all the rest put together, must
+not be passed over in silence. This is the nettle, which, as the country
+produces neither, hemp nor flax, supplies the materials of which are made
+their fishing-nets, and without which they could not possibly subsist. For
+this purpose they cut it down in August; and, after hanging it up in
+bundles in the shade, under their _balagans_, the remainder of the summer,
+treat it like hemp. They then spin it into thread with their fingers, and
+twist it round a spindle; after which they twine several threads together,
+according to the different purposes for which It may be designed.
+
+Though there is little doubt but that many parts of this peninsula would
+admit of such cultivation as might contribute considerably to the comfort
+of the inhabitants, yet its real riches must always consist in the number
+of wild animals it produces; and no labour, can ever be turned to so good
+account as what is employed upon their furrieries. The animals therefore
+which supply these come next to be considered; and these are, the common
+fox, the stoat, or ermine, the zibeline, or sable, the isatis, or arctic
+fox, the varying hare, the mountain rat, or earless marmot, the weasel, the
+glutton, or wolverene, the argali, or wild sheep, rein-deer, bears, wolves,
+dogs.
+
+The fox[56] is the most general object of the chase; and they are found in
+great numbers, and of variety of colours. The most common is the same in
+species with the European, with this variation, that the colours are more
+bright and shining; some are of a dark chesnut, others are striped with
+dark-coloured bars, others have the belly black, and the rest of the body
+of a light chesnut. Some again are of a very dark brown, some black, others
+of a stone colour; and there are a few quite white, but these last are very
+scarce. Their fur is exceedingly thick and fine, and of a quality much
+superior to those either of Siberia or America. A variety of artifices are
+made use of by the hunters to catch this animal, which in all climates seem
+to preserve the same character of craftiness and cunning. Traps of
+different sorts, some calculated to fall upon them, others to catch them by
+the feet, others by the head, are amongst the most common; to which may be
+added, several ingenious contrivances for taking them in nets. Poisoned
+baits are likewise in use; and the _nux vomica_ is the drug principally
+employed for this purpose. Before their knowledge of the Russians, by which
+they became acquainted with fire-arms, they also carried bows and arrows to
+the chase. But since that period, almost every Kamtschadale is provided
+with a rifle-barrel gun; and, though far from being dexterous in the use of
+it, its superiority over the former instruments he is ready to acknowledge.
+
+The sables[57] of Kamtschatka are said to be considerably larger than those
+of Siberia, and their fur much thicker and brighter, though not of so good
+a black as those in the neighbourhood of the Olekma and the Vitime,[58] a
+circumstance which depreciates their value much more than their superiority
+in other respects enhances it. The sables of the Tigil and Ouka are counted
+the best in Kamtschatka; and a pair of these sometimes sell for thirty
+roubles (five pounds sterling). The worst are those of the southern
+extremity. The apparatus of the sable hunters consist of a rifle-barrel gun
+of an exceedingly small bore, a net, and a few bricks; with the first they
+shoot them when they see them on the trees; the net is to surround the
+hollow trees, in which, when pursued, they take refuge; and the bricks are
+heated, and put into the cavities, in order to smoke them out.
+
+I must refer the reader for an account of the isatis,[59] or arctic fox, to
+Mr Pennant's Arctic Zoology, as I never saw either the animal or the skin,
+which I understand they set no value upon. The varying hare[60] is also
+neglected on the same account. They are in great abundance; and, as is
+always the case with this species, turn quite white during the winter. Our
+shooting parties saw several of this colour the beginning of May, but found
+them so shy, that they were not able to get within gun-shot.
+
+The mountain-rat, or earless marmot,[61] is a beautiful little animal,
+considerably smaller than a squirrel, and, like it, feeds upon roots,
+berries, the cedar-apple, &c. which it eats sitting upon its hind-legs, and
+holding them up to its mouth with the paws. Its skin is much valued by the
+Kamtschadales, is both warm and light, and of a bright shining colour,
+forming, like the plumage of some birds, various colours when viewed in
+different lights.
+
+The stoat, or ermine,[62] is here held in no estimation, and consequently
+never engages the attention of the hunters; because, as I have heard, its
+fur is of an ordinary kind. I saw many of these little animals running
+about; and we bought several of their skins, which were of a bad white, and
+of a dirty yellow toward the belly. The common weasel[63] is also
+neglected, and for the same reason.
+
+On the contrary, the skin of the glutton, or wolverene,[64] is here in the
+highest repute; insomuch, that a Kamtschadale looks upon himself as most
+richly attired, when a small quantity of this fur is seen upon him. The
+women adorn their hair with its pats, which are white, and considered as an
+extraordinary piece of finery; and they have a superstitious opinion, that
+the angels are clad with the skins of those animals. It is said, that this
+creature is easily tamed, and taught a number of pleasant tricks.[65]
+
+Having already had occasion to speak, as fully as my own knowledge enables
+me, of the bears, and the method of killing them, I shall only here
+observe, that all those I saw were of a dun brown colour; that they are
+generally seen in companies of four or five together; that the time they
+are most abroad is during the season that the fish (which is their
+principal food) are pushing up from the sea into the rivers, and that they
+are seldom visible in the winter months.[66]
+
+Their skins are exceedingly useful. They make both excellent warm matresses
+and coverings for their beds; comfortable bonnets and gloves, and good
+collars for the dogs' harness. Their flesh, and particularly the fat, are
+considered as great delicacies.
+
+The wolves are only seen in the winter; at which season they prowl about,
+as I was told, in large companies, in search of prey.
+
+There are rein-deer, both wild and tame, in several parts of the peninsula;
+but none in the neighbourhood of Awatska. It is somewhat singular, that
+this nation should never have used the rein-deer for the purposes of
+carriage, in the same manner as their neighbours, both to the north and the
+eastward. Their dogs, indeed, seem fully sufficient for all the demands of
+the natives in their present state; and the breed of Russian horses will
+probably increase with the future necessities of the country. But when it
+is recollected, that the use of dogs, in a great measure, precludes them
+from the advantage of bringing up any other domestic animals, it will
+appear the more extraordinary, that they should not have adopted the
+services of an animal so much more gentle as well as powerful.
+
+The argali, or wild mountain-sheep,[67] an animal, I believe, unknown in
+Europe, (except in Corsica and Sardinia,) is here in great plenty. Its skin
+is like the deer's, but in gait and general appearance, it partakes more of
+the goat. It has two large twisted horns, sometimes weighing, when at full
+growth, from twenty-five to thirty pounds, which in, running it rests upon
+its back. These creatures are exceedingly, nimble and swift, haunt only the
+most craggy and mountainous parts, and make their way among the steepest
+rocks with an agility that is astonishing. The natives work their horns
+into spoons, and small cups and platters; and have frequently one of a
+smaller size hanging to a belt, which serves them to drink out of in their
+hunting expeditions. This animal is gregarious. I frequently tasted the
+flesh of them, and thought it had a very sweet and delicate flavour; but
+never had an opportunity of seeing one alive. I must, therefore, refer the
+reader for a particular description of this beautiful animal, (for such it
+is said to be,) to the Memoirs of the Academy of Petersburg, tom. iv. tab.
+xiii.
+
+I have already observed, that the dogs of this country are, in shape and
+mien, exceedingly like the Pomeranian, with this difference, that they are
+a great deal larger, and the hair somewhat coarser. They are of a variety
+of colours; but the most general is a light dun, or dirty cream-colour.
+Toward the end of May they are all turned loose, and left to provide for
+themselves through the summer, being sure to return to their respective
+homes when the snow begins to fall. Their food, in the winter, consists
+entirely of the head, entrails, and back-bones of salmon; which are put
+aside, and dried for that purpose; and with this diet they are fed but
+sparingly. The number of dogs must needs be very great, since five are
+yoked to a sledge, and a sledge carries but one person; so that on our
+journey to Bolcheretsk, we required no fewer than an hundred and thirty-
+nine, at the two stages of Karatchin and Natcheekin. It is also to be
+remarked, that they never make use of bitches for the draft, nor dogs, but
+those that are cut. The whelps are trained to this business, by being tied
+to stakes with light leathern thongs, which, are made to stretch, and
+having their victuals placed at a proper distance out of their reach; so
+that by constantly pulling and labouring, in order to come at their food,
+they acquire both the strength of limbs, and the habit of drawing, that are
+necessary for their future destination.
+
+The coasts and bays of this country are frequented by almost every kind of
+northern sea-fowl; and amongst the rest are the sea-eagles, but not, as at
+Oonalashka, in great numbers. The rivers inland (if I may judge from what I
+saw in our journey to Bolcheretsk) are stored with numerous flocks of wild-
+ducks of various species; one kind of which, in particular, has a most
+beautiful plumage, and is called by the natives _a-an-gitche_; a word
+intended to express its cry, which is not less singular than agreeable,
+consisting of three distinct notes, rising, at equal intervals, above each
+other.[68]
+
+ There is another species, called the mountain-duck,[69] which, Steller
+says, is peculiar to Kamtschatka. The drake is covered with plumage of
+extraordinary beauty. Besides these, we observed a variety of other water-
+fowl, which, from their size, seemed to be of the wild-goose kind.
+
+In the woods through which we passed, were seen several eagles of a
+prodigious size; but of what species they were I cannot pretend to
+determine. These are said to be of three different sorts; the black eagle,
+with a white head, tail, and leg;[70] of which the eaglets are as white as
+snow; the white eagle, so called, though in fact it is of a light grey; and
+the lead, or stone-coloured eagle,[71] which is the most common; and
+probably those I saw were of this sort. Of the hawk, falcon, and bustard
+kind, there are great numbers.
+
+This country likewise affords woodcocks, snipes, and two sorts of grouse,
+or moor-game. Swans are also said to be in great plenty; and in their
+entertainments, generally to make a part of the repast, though I do not
+remember to have seen one on any occasion. The vast abundance of wild-fowl
+with which the country is stored, was manifest from the numerous presents
+we received from the _Toion_ of Saint Peter and Saint Paul; and which
+sometimes consisted of twenty brace.
+
+We met with no amphibious sea-animals on the coast, except seals, with
+which the bay of Awatska swarmed; as they were at this time in pursuit of
+the salmon that were collecting in shoals, and ready to ascend the rivers.
+Some of them are said to pursue the fish into the fresh water, and to be
+found in most of the lakes which communicate with the sea.
+
+The sea-otters[72] are exactly the same with those we met with at Nootka
+Sound, which have been already fully described, and where they are in great
+plenty. They are also said to have been formerly in equal abundance here;
+but, since the Russians have opened a trade for their skins to China, where
+they are sold at a price much beyond that of any other kind of fur, they
+have been hunted almost entirely out of the country. Amongst the Kurile
+Islands they are still caught, though in no great numbers; but are of a
+superior quality to those of Kamtschatka, or the American coast.
+
+We are informed, that on Mednoi and Beering's Island, scarce a sea-otter is
+now to be found; though it appears from Muller,[73] that in his time they
+were exceedingly plentiful.
+
+The Russian voyagers make mention of a great variety of amphibious sea-
+animals, which are said to frequent these coasts; the reason why we saw no
+other kinds might be, that this was the season of their migration.
+
+Not having it in my power to treat these articles more fully, I conclude
+them with the less regret, since the ingenious Mr Pennant has a work,
+almost ready for publication, entitled, "Arctic Zoology;" in which the
+learned will receive full information concerning the animals of this
+peninsula. This gentleman has very obligingly communicated to me his
+Catalogue of Arctic Animals, with reference to his work, and permission to
+insert it. It will be found at the end of this section; and I feel myself
+extremely happy in laying it before the reader, and thereby presenting him
+with, what could have been furnished from no other quarter, one entire view
+of Kamtschadale zoology.[74]
+
+Fish may be considered as the staple article of food with which Providence
+hath supplied the inhabitants of this peninsula; who, in general, must
+never expect to draw any considerable part of their sustenance either from
+grain or cattle. It is true, the soil, as has been remarked, affords some
+good and nourishing roots, and every part of the country abounds in
+berries; but though these alone would be insufficient for the support of
+the people, yet, at the same time, they are necessary correctives of the
+putrescent quality of their dried fish. In short, fish may, with much
+greater justice, be here called the staff of life, than bread is in other
+countries; since it appears, that neither the inhabitants, nor the only
+domestic animal they have, the dog, could exist without it.
+
+Whales are frequently seen, both in the sea of Okotzk, and on the side of
+the eastern ocean, and, when caught, are turned to a variety of uses. Of
+the skin they make the soles of their shoes, and straps and thongs for
+various other purposes. The flesh they eat, and the fat is carefully
+stored, both for kitchen use, and for their lamps. The whiskers are found
+to be the best materials for sewing together the seams of their canoes;
+they likewise make nets of them for the larger kind of fish; and with the
+under-jaw-bones their sledges are shod. They likewise work the bones into
+knives; and formerly the chains with which their dogs are tied, were made
+of that material, though at present iron ones are generally used. The
+intestines they clean, then blow and dry like bladders and it is in these
+their oil and grease is stored; and of the nerves and veins, which are both
+strong and slip readily, they make excellent snares; so that there is no
+part of the whale which here does not find its use.
+
+From the middle of May, till our departure on the 24th of June, we caught
+great quantities of excellent flat-fish, trout, and herrings. Upward of
+three hundred of the former, besides a number of sea-trout, were dragged
+out at one haul of the seine, the 15th of May. These flat-fish are firm,
+and of a good flavour, studded upon the back with round prickly knobs, like
+turbot, and streaked with dark-brown lines, running from the head toward
+the tail. About the end of May the first herring season begins. They
+approach in great shoals, but do not remain long on the coast. They had
+entirely left the bay before we sailed out of it the first time, but were
+beginning to revisit it again in October. It has been already mentioned,
+that the herrings were remarkably fine and large, and that we filled a
+great part of our empty casks with them. The beginning of June large
+quantities of excellent cod were taken; a part of which were likewise
+salted. We caught too, at different times, numbers of small fish, much
+resembling a smelt, and once drew out a wolf-fish.
+
+Notwithstanding this abundance of flat-fish, cod, and herring, it is on the
+salmon-fishery alone that the Kamtschadales depend for their winter
+provisions. Of these, it is said by naturalists, there are to be found on
+this coast all the different species that are known to exist, and which the
+natives formerly characterized by the different months in which they ascend
+the rivers. They say, too, that though the shoals of different sorts are
+seen to mount the rivers at the same time, yet they never mix with each
+other; that they always return to the same river in which they were bred,
+but not till the third summer; that neither the male nor female live to
+regain the sea; that certain species frequent certain rivers, and are never
+found in others, though they empty themselves nearly at the same place.
+
+The first shoals of salmon begin to enter the mouth of the Awatska about
+the middle of May; and this kind, which is called by the Kamtschadales
+_Tchavitsi_, is the largest and most valued. Their length is generally
+about three feet and a half; they are very deep in proportion, and their
+average weight is from thirty to forty pounds. The tail is not forked, but
+straight. The back is of a dark blue, spotted with black; in other respects
+they are much like our common salmon. They ascend the river with
+extraordinary velocity, insomuch that the water is sensibly agitated by
+their motion; and the Kamtschadales, who are always on the watch for them
+about the time they are expected, judge of their approach by this
+circumstance, and immediately let drop their nets before them. We were
+presented with one of the first that was caught, and given to understand
+that it was the greatest compliment that could be paid us. Krascheninnikoff
+relates, that formerly the Kamtschadales made a point of eating the first
+fish they took with great rejoicings, and a variety of superstitious
+ceremonies; and that, after the Russians became their masters, it was for a
+long time a constant subject of quarrel between them, to whom the first
+should belong. The season for fishing for this species lasts from the
+middle of May till the end of June.
+
+The other sort is of a smaller kind, weighing only from eight to sixteen
+pounds. They are known by the general name of the red fish, and begin to
+collect in the bays and at the mouths of the rivers the beginning of June;
+from, which time till the end of September, they are caught in great
+quantities, both upon the eastern and western coast, where any fresh water
+falls into the sea, and likewise all along the course of the rivers to
+their very source. The manner in which they draw their nets within the bay
+of Awatska is as follows: They tie one end of the net to a large stone at
+the water's edge; they then push off in a canoe about twenty yards in a
+right line, dropping their net as they advance, after which they turn and
+run out the remainder of the net in a line parallel to the shore. In this
+position they wait, concealing themselves very carefully in the boat, and
+keeping a sharp look-out for the fish, which always direct their course
+close in with the shore, and whose approach is announced by a rippling in
+the water, till they find that the shoal has advanced beyond the boat, when
+they shoot the canoe to shore in a direct line, and never fail of inclosing
+their prey. Seldom more than two men are employed to a net, who haul with
+facility, in this manner, seines larger than ours, to which we appoint a
+dozen. We at first met with very poor success in our own method of hauling,
+but after the Kamtschadales had very kindly put us in the way, we were not
+less successful than themselves. In the rivers, they shoot one net across,
+and haul another down the stream to it.
+
+The lakes that have a communication with the sea, which was the case of all
+those that I saw, abound with fish that have very much the resemblance of
+small salmon, and are from four to six pounds weight. I could not
+understand that the inhabitants thought it worth their while to fish for
+them. As these lakes are not deep, they become an easy prey to the bears
+and dogs during the summer; and, if I might judge from the quantity of
+bones to be seen upon, the banks, they devour vast numbers of them.
+
+The inhabitants, for the most part, dry their salmon, and salt very little
+of it. Each fish is cut into three pieces, the belly-piece being first
+taken off, and afterward a slice along each side the back-bone. The former
+of these are dried and smoked, and esteemed the finest part of the fish,
+and sold, when we were at Saint Peter and Saint Paul's, at the rate of one
+hundred for a rouble. The latter are dried in the air, and either eaten
+whole as bread, or reduced to powder, of which they make paste and cakes,
+that are not unpleasant to the taste. The head, tail, and bones are hung
+up, and dried for winter provision for the dogs.
+
+
+_List of Animals found in Kamtschadale, communicated by Mr Pennant_.[75]
+
+
+*Argali, wild sheep, Arct.         _Capra ammon_, Lin. Syst. 97
+    Zool. vol. i. p. 12.
+ Ibex, _or_ wild goat          16  _Capra ibex_.             90
+*Rein                          22  _Cervus tarandus_.        93
+*Wolf                          38  _Canis lupus_.            53
+*Dog                           40
+*Arctic fox                    42   _Canis lagopus_.         59
+*European fox                  45   _Canis vulpes_.          59
+*  a. black                    46
+   b. cross                    ib.
+*Polar bear, in the Frozen Sea      _Ursus Arctos_.          69
+   only                        55
+*Bear                          57   _Ursus arctos_.
+*Wolverene                     66   _Ursus luscus_.          71
+*Common weasel                 75   _Mustela nivalis_.       69
+*Stoat, _or_ ermine            ib.  _Mustela erminea_.       68
+*Sable                         79   _Mustela zibellina_.     68
+ Common otter                  86   _Mustela lutra_.         66
+*Sea otter                     88   _Mustela lutris_.        66
+*Varying hare                  94   _Lepus timidus_.
+ Alpine hare                   97
+*Earless marmot               113   _Mus citellus_.         113
+ Bobak marmot                 115
+ Water rat                    130   _Mus amphibius_.         82
+ Common mouse                 131   _Mus Musculus_.          83
+ OEconomic mouse              134
+ Red mouse                    136
+ Ichelag mouse                138
+ Foetid shrew                 139   _Sorex araneus_.         74
+*Walrus. Icy sea              144   _Trichecus rosmarus_.    49
+*Common seal                  151   _Phoca vitulina_         56
+ Great seal                   159
+ Leporine seal                161
+ Harp seal                    163
+ Rubbon seal. Kurile Isles    165
+ Ursine seal                  ib.   _Phoca ursina_           58
+ Leonine seal                 172
+*Whale-tailed manati          177
+
+
+There were no domestic animals in Kamtschatka till they were introduced by
+the Russians. The dogs, which seem to be of wolfish descent, are
+aboriginal.
+
+
+BIRDS.
+
+
+LAND BIRDS.
+
+
+I.    Sea eagle. Vol. II. p. 194   _Falco ossifragus_ ..... 124
+     *Cinereous eagle ...... 2l4   _Vultur albiulla_ ...... 123
+     *White-headed eagle ... 196   _Falco leucocephalus_ .. ib.
+      Crying eagle ......... 215     (Latham, I.38.)
+      Osprey ............... 199   _Falco haliaetus_ ....... 129
+      Peregrine falcon ..... 202     (Latham, I.73.[76])
+      Goshawk .............. 204   _Falco palumbarius_..... 130
+II.   Eagle owl ............ 228   _Strix bubo_ ........... 131
+      Snowy owl ............ 233   _Strix nyctea_.......... 132
+III   Raven ................ 246   _Corvus corax_.......... 155
+      Magpye ............... 147   _Corvus pica_ .......... 157
+      Nutcracker ........... 252   _Corvus caryocatactes_.. ib.
+IV.   Cuckoo ............... 266   _Cuculus canorus_ ...... 168
+V.    Wryneck .............. 267   _Jynx torquilla_ ....... 172
+VI.   Nuthatch ............. 281   _Sitta Europea_  ....... 177
+VII.  White grous .......... 308   _Tetrao lagopus_ ....... 274
+      Wood grous ........... 312   _Tetrao urogallus_ ..... 273
+VIII. Water ouzel .......... 332   _Sturnus cinclus_
+IX.   Fieldfare ............ 340   _Turdus pilaris_  ...... 291
+      Redwing thrush ....... 341   _Turdus iliacus_  ...... 291
+      Kamtschatkan ......... 343     (Latham, III. 23.)
+X.    Greenfinch ........... 353   _Loxia chloris_ ........ 304
+XI.   Golden bunting ....... 367     (Latham, II. 201.)
+XII.  Lesser red-headed         \
+       linnet .............. 379/    (Latham, II. 305.)
+XIII. Dun flycatcher ....... 390     (Latham, II. 351.)
+XIV.  Sky-lark ............. 394A.  _Alauda arsensis_ ..... 287
+      Wood-lark ............ 395B.  _Alauda arborea_ ...... ib.
+XV.   White wagtail ........ 396E.  _Motacilla alba_ ...... 331
+      Yellow wagtail ....... ib.F.  _Motacilla flava_ ..... ib.
+      Tschutski wagtail .... 397H.    (Latham, IV. 403.)
+XVI.  Yellow wren .......... 413    _Motacilla trochilus_.  338
+      Redstart ............. 416    _Motacilla phaenicurus_. 335
+      Longbilled ........... 420
+      Stapazina ............ 421    _Motacilla stapazina_.  331
+      Awatska .............. 422
+XVII. Marsh titmouse ....... 427    _Paras palustris_ ..... 341
+XVIII.Chimney swallow ...... 429    _Hirundo rustica_ ..... 343
+      Martin ............... 430    _Hirundo urbica_ .....  344
+      Sand martin .......... ib.    _Hirundo riparia_ ....  ib.
+XIX. European goatsucker ... 437    _Caprimulgus Europeus_. 346
+
+
+WATER FOWL.
+
+
+_Cloven-footed Water Fowl_.
+
+
+Crane                 P.453 A. _Ardeagrus_               334
+Curlew                P.462 A. _Scolopax arquata_        242
+Whimbrel              P.462 B. _Scolopax phaeopus_        243
+Common sandpiper     No 388    _Tringa hypoleucos_       250
+Gambet               No 394    _Tringa gambetta_         248
+Golden plover        No 399    _Charadrius pluvialis_    254
+Pied oyster-catcher  No        _Haematopus ostralegus_    257
+
+
+_With pinnated Feet_.
+
+
+Plain phalarope.
+
+
+_With webbed Feet_.
+
+
+Wandering albatross   No 423  _Diomedea exulans_         214
+Razor-bill hawk       No 425  _Alca torda_               210
+Puffin                No 427  _Alca arctica_             211
+Antient               No 430
+Pygmy                 No 431
+Tufted                No 432
+Parroquet             No 433
+Crested               No 434
+Dusky                 No 435
+Foolish guillemot     No 436  _Colymbus troille_          220
+Black guillemot       No 437  _Colymbus grylle_.          ib.
+Marbled guillemot     No 438
+Imber diver           No 440  _Colymbus immer_            222
+Speckled diver        No 441
+Red-throated diver    No 443  _Colymbus septentrionalis_  220
+Great tern            No 448  _Sterna hirundo_.
+Kamtschatkan          P.525 A.
+Black-headed gull     No 455  _Larus ridibundus_          225
+Kittiwake gull        No 456  _Larus rissa_               224
+Ivory gull            No 457
+Arctic gull           No 459
+Tarrock               P.533D._Larus tridactylus_.         ib.
+Red-legged            P.533 E.
+Fulmar petrel         No 464  _Procellaria glacialis_     213
+Stormy petrel         No 464  _Procellaria pelagica_      212
+Kurile petrel         P.536 A.
+Blue petrel.[77]      Preface.
+Goosander merganser   No 465  _Mergus merganser_          208
+Smew                  No 468  _Mergus albellus_           209
+Whistling swan        No 469  _Anas Cygnus ferus_         194 A.
+Great goose           P.570
+Chinese goose         P.571  _Anas cygnoides_             194 B.
+Snow goose            No 477
+Brent goose           No 478   _Anas bernicla_            198
+Eider duck            No 480   _Anas molitsima_           ib.
+Black duck            No 483   _Anas spectabilis_         195
+Velvet duck           No 481   _Anas fusca_               196
+Shoveler              No 485   _Anas clypeata_            200
+Golden eye            No 486   _Anas clangula_            201
+Harlequin             No 490   _Anas histrionica_         204
+Mallard               No 494   _Anas boschas_             205
+* Western             No 497
+Pintail               No 500   _Anas acuta_               202
+* Longtailed          No 501   _Anas glacialis_           203
+Morillon              P.573 F. _Anas glaucion_            201
+Shieldrake            P.572 D. _Anas tadorna_             195
+Tufted                P.573 G. _Anas fuligula_            207
+Falcated              P.574 I.
+Garganey              P.576 O. _Anas querquedula_         263
+Teal                  P.577 P. _Anas crecia_              204
+Corvorant             No 509   _Pelecanus carbo_          216
+Violet corvorant      P.584 B.
+Red-faced corvorant   P.584 C.
+
+
+[42] Some doubt may be entertained of the propriety with which Captain King
+    has occupied so large a portion of his volume as two chapters, or
+    sections, with a subject, respecting which it is most certain, his
+    knowledge must have resulted from almost any thing else than his own
+    personal observation. There is force in the objection. But it must be
+    allowed on the other hand, that there was no inconsiderable inducement
+    to supply the public with a tolerable share of information concerning
+    a country which, distant and uncultivated as it was, seemed
+    notwithstanding to be entitled to more regard than had usually been
+    paid to it. Steller's work, of which he has properly availed himself,
+    had been but recently published, viz. in 1774, and in all probability
+    had not hitherto occupied much attention. The earlier accounts,
+    whether published separately as that of Krascheninnikof, an English
+    translation of which appeared at Gloucester in 1764, or contained in
+    other works, as an article in Pallas's New Memoirs of the North, were
+    perhaps still less consulted. Captain King's description, therefore,
+    supposing the subject in any degree entitled to notice, was neither
+    unnecessary nor unprofitable. It has been generally employed as the
+    basis of the subsequent accounts which have been inserted in
+    gazetteers and treatises of geography. But there have been several
+    works, entitled to the consideration of being original, published
+    since its appearance, from which some additions might be obtained, or
+    which point out reasons for correction,--not so much however, it is
+    proper to remark, because of errors committed by Captain K., as
+    because of alterations occurred in the country since his time. A few
+    of these, unfortunately not much for the better, have been stated, or
+    will be so, on the authority of one of the last visitors to
+    Kamtschatka, Captain Krusenstern. This gentleman, however, it ought to
+    be understood, admits the general accuracy of the previous accounts
+    given by Krascheninnikof, Steller, and King, and therefore, avoiding
+    repetition, restricts himself almost entirely to the mention of the
+    most material changes which have taken place during the last thirty
+    years. This will readily be allowed enough for our present purpose,
+    exclusive of any attention to the other productions which have treated
+    of Kamtschatka, in the intermediate period.--E.
+
+[43] It is in the vicinity of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, Krusenstern
+    allows, that the climate is so unfavourable, and the soil, in
+    consequence, so ungrateful. But he specifies reasons for believing that
+    the middle provinces of Kamtschatska are equal, if not superior, to
+    many in European Russia, in respect of natural advantages, though
+    certainly far less indebted to the hand of man. He tells us, however,
+    that in the interior, several species of corn are brought to
+    perfection and many kinds of vegetables are cultivated. In his opinion
+    the climate is not so bad as it has generally been represented, and he
+    is convinced that the indolence of the inhabitants, and the incapacity
+    occasioned by the immoderate use of spirits, are far more in fault as
+    to the deficiency or unproductiveness of the soil, than the frequent
+    fogs which are so much complained of, or any other unkindness on the
+    part of nature. In proof of this, he maintains that the officers who
+    are garrisoned here, have laid out gardens for themselves, which, by
+    proper care, yield almost every kind of vegetable necessary for the
+    table, and that too in quantities beyond the usual demand. Besides the
+    materially efficient checks already mentioned, this gentleman
+    specifies a very unreasonable notion, pretty commonly entertained,
+    which has operated extensively in limiting the productions of the
+    earth, and from which not even the officers who had been successful in
+    their particular pursuits were altogether exempt. The notion to which
+    he alludes is, that it would be useless to commence cultivating their
+    gardens before the month of July, although, to his certain knowledge,
+    June was _as beautiful as it can possibly be in the most favoured
+    climate_, and though, according to Captain King, wild garlic, cellery,
+    and nettles, were gathered for his crew in the month of May. The
+    inference from this last circumstance seems obviously correct. "If,"
+    says Krusenstern, "in the middle of May so much is already produced
+    without any cultivation at all, I think I do not assert too much in
+    saying they ought to begin to lay out their gardens in this month."
+    This conclusion appears still more importantly authoritative from what
+    he relates on his own experience. "I passed all the summer months in
+    Kamtschatka," says he, "during the two years of my absence; that is to
+    say, the whole of June, a part of July, and the whole of August and
+    September, and can affirm with confidence, that, in these four months,
+    there are just as many pleasant cheerful days as in any other place
+    under the same latitude." On the whole then, one may readily concur in
+    sentiment with this intelligent officer, that did the government adopt
+    very different measures from those which have hitherto been in force,
+    and were certain practices and prejudices abolished, Kamtschatka might
+    afford as good and cheap living as many other provinces of the Russian
+    empire. To most readers, it is probable, this will seem no very mighty
+    recommendation. Relatively, however, to the person who makes it, and
+    to those to whom it is addressed, it must be allowed to possess a
+    virtue of no common magnitude or efficacy. Perhaps it is necessary to
+    state for the credit of this writer, that some of the immediately
+    following remarks of Captain King, much as they seem at first sight to
+    oppose one of his opinions above approved of, will be found on
+    attentive consideration perfectly reconcileable with them, more
+    particularly if it be remembered that in other countries where much
+    snow falls during the winter, nothing is more usual than to find, on
+    its disappearance, that the earth is covered with a rich and healthy
+    vegetation which a thick coating of that substance, known to be a bad
+    conductor of heat, had preserved from the rigors of the season.--E.
+
+[44] Krascheninnikoff says, that the tree here spoken of is a dwarf cedar,
+    for that there is not a pine in the peninsula.
+
+[45] Krascheninnikoff says, that the natives likewise convert the bark into
+    a pleasant wholesome food, by stripping it off whilst it is young and
+    green, and cutting it into long narrow stripes, like _vermicelli_,
+    drying it, and stewing it afterward along with their _caviar_.
+
+[46] Gmelin, p. 41. Steller enumerates five different species of this
+    plant.
+
+[47] Lonicera pedunclis bifloris, floribus infundibili formis, baccia
+    solitaria, oblonga, angulosa. Gmel. Flor. Sib.
+
+[48] Myrtillus grandis caeruleus.
+
+[49] Epilobium.
+
+[50] Chaerephyllum seminibus levibus.
+
+[51] Tradescantia fructu molli edulo.
+
+[52] Bistorta foliis ovatis, oblongis, acuminatis.
+
+[53] Jacobea foliis cannabis. Steller.
+
+[54] Anemonoides et ranunculus.
+
+[55] Gmel. Sib. Tom. i. p. 119. Tab. XXV.
+
+[56] Canis vulpes.
+
+[57] Mustela zibellina.
+
+[58] Rivers emptying themselves into the Lena, near its source.
+
+[59] Canis lagopus.
+
+[60] Lepus timidus.
+
+[61] Mus citellus.
+
+[62] Mustela erminea.
+
+[63] Mustela nivalis.
+
+[64] Ursus luseus.
+
+[65] Krascheninnikoff relates, that this small animal frequently destroys
+    deer, and the wild mountain sheep, in the following way: They scatter
+    at the bottom of trees bark and moss, which those animals are fond of;
+    and whilst they are picking it up, drop suddenly upon them, and,
+    fastening behind the head, suck out their eyes.
+
+[66] The Koriacks make use of a very simple method of catching bears. They
+    suspend, between the forks of a tree, a running noose; within which
+    they fasten a bait, which the animal, endeavouring to pull away, is
+    caught sometimes by the neck, and sometimes by the paw.
+
+[67] Capra ammon, or wild sheep. Arct, Zool. i. p. 12.
+
+[68] Mr Steller has made the following scale of its cry:
+
+    [Illustration:
+     F-A- C     |F-A- C
+     a-an-gitche a-an-gitche.
+    ]
+
+    For a further account of this bird, I must refer the reader to
+    Krascheninnikoff, vol. ii. part 4.
+
+[69] Anas picta, capita pulchre fasciato. Steller.
+
+[70] Falco leucocephalus.
+
+[71] Vultur albiulla.
+
+[72] Mustela lutris.
+
+[73] English translation, p. 59.
+
+[74] Few readers, it is probable, will require the information, that the
+    work of Mr Pennant, here alluded to, was published not very long after
+    the appearance of this voyage, viz. in 1784. In consequence of this
+    circumstance, it might be thought unnecessary to insert the table or
+    catalogue of animals now spoken of. But, on the whole, there appeared
+    more propriety in risking the offence of repetition with those who
+    possess Mr P.'s work, than in disappointing those who do not.--E.
+
+[75] The quadrupeds and birds mentioned in this part of the voyage are
+    marked in this list with an asterisk.
+
+[76] The birds, which are not described by Linnaeus's, are referred to the
+    History of Birds, published by Mr Latham, surgeon in Dartford, Kent.
+
+[77] I never saw this, but it is mentioned by Mr Ellis. I had omitted it in
+    my zoologic part.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION VII.
+
+
+General Account of Kamtschatka, continued.--Of the Inhabitants.--Origin of
+the Kamtschadales.--Discovered by the Russians.--Abstract of their
+History.--Numbers.--Present State.--Of the Russian Commerce in
+Kamtschatka.--Of the Kamtschadale Habitations, and Dress.--Of the Kurile
+Islands.--The Koreki.--The Tschutski.
+
+
+The present inhabitants of Kamtschatka are of three sorts. The natives, or
+Kamtschadales; the Russians and Cossacks; and a mixture of these two by
+marriage.
+
+Mr Steller, who resided sometime in this country, and who seems to have
+taken great pains to gain information on this subject, is persuaded, that
+the true Kamtschadales are a people of great antiquity, and have for many
+ages inhabited this peninsula; and that they are originally descended from
+the Mungallians, and not either from the Tungusian Tartars, as some, or the
+Japanese, as others have imagined.
+
+The principal arguments, by which he supports these opinions, are, That
+there exists not among them the trace of a tradition of their having
+migrated from any other country; that they believe themselves to have been
+created and placed in this very spot by their god Koutkou; that they are
+the most favoured of his creatures; the most fortunate and happy of beings;
+and that their country is superior to all others, affording means of
+gratification far beyond what are any where else to be met with; that they
+have a perfect knowledge of all the plants of their country, their virtues
+and uses, which could not be acquired in a short time; that their
+instruments and household utensils differ greatly from those of any other
+nation, and are made with an extraordinary degree of neatness and
+dexterity, which implies that they are both of their own invention, and
+have been long in arriving at so great perfection; that, antecedently to
+the arrival of the Russians and Cossacks among them, they had not the
+smallest knowledge of any people, except the Koreki; that it is but of late
+they had an intercourse with the Kuriles, and still later (and happened by
+means of a vessel being shipwrecked on their coast) that they knew any
+thing of the Japanese; and, lastly, that the country was very populous at
+the time the Russians first got footing in it.
+
+The reasons he alleges for supposing them to be originally descended from
+the Mungalians, are, That many words in their language have terminations
+similar to those of the Mungalian Chinese, such as, ong, ing, oing, tching,
+tcha, tchoing, ksi, ksung, &c.; and, moreover, that the same principle of
+inflexion or derivation obtains in both languages; that they are in general
+under-sized, as are the Mungalians; that their complexion, like theirs, is
+swarthy; that they have black hair, little beard, the face broad, the nose
+short and flat, the eyes small and sunk, the eye-brows thin, the belly
+pendant, the legs small; all which are peculiarities that are to be found
+among the Mungalians. From the whole of which he draws this conclusion,
+that they fled for safety to this peninsula, from the rapid advances of the
+Eastern conquerors; as the Laplanders, the Samoides, &c. were compelled to
+retreat to the extremities of the north by the Europeans.
+
+The Russians having extended their conquests, and established posts and
+colonies along that immense extent of coast of the Frozen Sea, from the
+Jenesei to the Anadir, appointed commissaries for the purpose of exploring
+and subjecting the countries still farther eastward. They soon became
+acquainted with the wandering Koriacs, inhabiting the north and north-east
+coast of the sea of Okotzk, and, without difficulty, made them tributary.
+These being the immediate neighbours of the Kamtschadales, and likewise in
+the habits of bartering with them, a knowledge of Kamtschatka followed of
+course.
+
+The honour of the first discovery is given to Feodot Alexeieff, a merchant,
+who is said to have sailed from the river Kovyma, round the peninsula of
+the Tschutski, in company with seven other vessels, about the year 1648.
+The tradition goes, that, being separated from the rest by a storm, near
+the Tschukotskoi Noss, he was driven upon the coast of Kamtschatka, where
+he wintered; and the summer following coasted round the promontory of
+Lopatka, into the sea of Okotzk, and entered the mouth of the Tigil; but
+that he and his companions were cut off by the Koriacs, in endeavouring to
+pass from thence by land to the Anadirsk. This, in part, is corroborated by
+the accounts of Simeon Deshneff, who commanded one of the seven vessels,
+and was thrown on shore at the mouth of the Anadir. Be this as it may,
+since these discoverers, if such they were, did not live to make any report
+of what they had done, Volodimir Atlassoff, a Cossack, stands for the first
+acknowledged discoverer of Kamtschatka.[78]
+
+This person was sent, in the year 1697, from the fort Jakutzk to the
+Anadirsk, in the quality of commissary, with instructions to call in the
+assistance of the Koriacs, with a view to the discovery of countries beyond
+theirs, and to the subjecting them to a tribute. In 1699, he penetrated,
+with about sixty Russian soldiers, and the same number of Cossacks, into
+the heart of the peninsula; gained the Tigil; and from thence levying a
+tribute in furs, in his progress crossed over to the river Kamtschatka, on
+which he built the higher Kamtschatka ostrog, called Verchnei, where he
+left a garrison of sixteen Cossacks, and returned to Jakutzk in 1700, with
+an immense quantity of rare and valuable tributary furs. These he had the
+good sense and policy to accompany to Moscow; and, in recompence for his
+services, was appointed commander of the fort of Jakutzk, with farther
+orders to repair again to Kamtschatka; having first drawn from the garrison
+at Tobolsk a reinforcement of a hundred Cossacks, with ammunition, and
+whatever else could give efficacy to the completion and settlement of his
+late discoveries. Advancing with this force toward the Anadirsk, he fell in
+with a bark on the river[79] Tunguska. laden with Chinese merchandize,
+which he pillaged; and, in consequence of a remonstrance from the sufferers
+to the Russian court, he was seized upon at Jakutzk, and thrown into
+prison.
+
+In the mean time, Potop Serioukoff, who had been left by Atlassoff, kept
+peaceable possession of the garrison of Verchnei; and though he had not a
+sufficient force to compel the payment of a tribute from the natives, yet,
+by his management and conciliating disposition, he continued to carry on an
+advantageous traffic with them as a merchant. On his return to the
+Anadirsk, with the general good-will of the natives of Kamtschatka, himself
+and party were attacked by the Koriacs, and unfortunately all cut off. This
+happened about 17O3; and several other successive commissaries were sent
+into Kamtschatka, with various success, during the disgrace and trial of
+Atlassoff.
+
+In 1706, Atlassoff was reinstated in his command, and appointed to conduct
+a second expedition into Kamtschatka, with instructions to gain upon the
+natives by all peaceable means, but on no pretence to have recourse to
+force and compulsion; but, instead of attending to his orders, he not only,
+by repeated acts of cruelty and injustice, made the natives exceedingly
+hostile and averse to their new governors, but likewise so far alienated
+the affections of his own people, that it ended in a mutiny of the
+Cossacks, and their demand of another commander. The Cossacks having
+carried their point, in displacing Atlassoff, seized upon his effects; and,
+after once tasting the sweets of plunder, and of living without discipline
+or controul, in vain did his successors attempt to reduce them to military
+discipline and subjection. Three successive commanders were assassinated in
+their turn; and the Cossacks being thus in open rebellion to the Russian
+government, and with arms in their hands, were let loose upon the natives.
+The history of this country from that period, till the grand revolt of the
+Kamtschadales in 1731, presents one unvaried detail of massacres, revolts,
+and savage and sanguinary rencounters between small parties, from one end
+of the peninsula to the other.
+
+What led to this revolt, was the discovery of a passage from Okotzk to the
+Bolchoireka, which was first made by Cosmo Sokoloff, in the year 1715.
+Hitherto the Russians had no entrance into the country but on the side of
+Anadirsk; so that the natives had frequent opportunities of both plundering
+the tribute, as it was carried by so long a journey out of the peninsula,
+and harassing the troops in their march into it. But by the discovery of
+this communication, there existed a safe and speedy means, as well of
+exporting the tribute, as of importing the troops and military stores into
+the very heart of the country; which the natives easily saw gave the
+Russians so great an advantage, as must soon confirm their dominion, and
+therefore determined them to make one grand and immediate struggle for
+their liberty. The moment resolved upon for carrying their designs into
+execution, was when Beering should have set sail, who was at this time on
+the coast with a small squadron, and had dispatched all the troops that
+could well be spared from the country, to join Powloutski, in an expedition
+against the Tschutski. The opportunity was well chosen; and it is
+altogether surprising, that this conspiracy, which was so general, that
+every native in the peninsula is said to have had his share in it, was at
+the same time conducted with such secrecy, that the Russians had not the
+smallest suspicion that any thing hostile to their interests was in
+agitation. Their other measures were equally well taken. They had a strong
+body in readiness to cut off all communication with the fort Anadirsk; and
+the eastern coast was likewise lined with detached parties, with a view of
+seizing on any Russians that might by accident arrive from Okotzk. Things
+were in this state, when the commissary Cheekhaerdin marched from Verchnei
+with his tribute, escorted by the troops of the fort, for the mouth of the
+Kamtschatka river, where a vessel was lying to convey them to the Anadir.
+Besides waiting for the departure of Beering, the revolt was to be
+suspended till this vessel should be out at sea, notice of which was to be
+given to the different chiefs. Accordingly, the moment she was out of
+sight, they began to massacre every Russian and Cossack that came in their
+way, and to set fire to their houses. A large body ascended the river
+Kamtschatka; made themselves masters of the fort and _ostrog_ the
+commissary had just quitted; put to death all that were in it, and, except
+the church and the fort, reduced the whole to ashes. Here it was that they
+first learned that the Russian vessel, in which the commissary had
+embarked, was still on the coast, which, determined them to defend
+themselves in the fort. The wind fortunately soon brought the vessel back
+to the harbour; for had she proceeded in her voyage, nothing probably could
+have prevented the utter extirpation of the Russians. The Cossacks finding,
+on their landing, that their houses had been burnt to the ground, and their
+wives and children either massacred or carried off prisoners, were enraged
+to madness. They marched directly to the fort, which they attacked with
+great fury, and the natives as resolutely defended, till at length the
+powder-magazine taking fire, the fort was blown up, together with most of
+those that were in it. Various rencounters succeeded to this event, in
+which much blood was spilled on both sides. At length, two of the principal
+leaders being slain, and the third, (after dispatching his wife and
+children, to prevent their falling into the enemy's hand,) having put an
+end to himself, peace was established.
+
+From that period every thing went on very peaceably till the year 1740,
+when a few Russians lost their lives in a tumult, which was attended with
+no farther consequences; and, except the insurrection at Bolcheretsk, in
+1770, (which, has been already noticed,) there has been no disturbance
+since.
+
+Though the quelling the rebellion of 1731 was attended with the loss of a
+great number of inhabitants, yet I was informed that the country had
+recovered itself, and was become more populous than ever, when, in the year
+1767, the small-pox, brought by a soldier from Okotzk, broke out among them
+for the first time, marking its progress with ravages not less dreadful
+than the plague, and seeming to threaten their entire extirpation. They
+compute that near twenty thousand died of this disorder in Kamtschatka, the
+Koreki country, and the Kurile Islands. The inhabitants of whole villages
+were swept away. Of this we had sufficient proofs before our eyes. There
+are no less than eight ostrogs scattered about the bay of Awatska, all
+which, we were informed, had been fully inhabited, but are now entirely
+desolate, except Saint Peter and Saint Paul; and even that contains no more
+than seven Kamtschadales, who are tributary. At Paratounca ostrog there are
+but thirty-six native inhabitants, men, women, and children, which, before
+it was visited by the small-pox, we were told contained three hundred and
+sixty. In our road to Bolcheretsk, we passed four extensive ostrogs, with
+not an inhabitant in them. In the present diminished state of the natives,
+with fresh supplies of Russians and Cossacks perpetually pouring in, and
+who intermix with them by marriage, it is probable, that in less than half
+a century there will be very few of them left. By Major Behm's account,
+there are not now more than three thousand who pay tribute, the Kurile
+islanders included.[80]
+
+I understood that there are at this time, of the military, in the five
+forts of Nichnei, Verchnei, Tigil, Bolcheretsk, and Saint Peter and Saint
+Paul, about four hundred Russians and Cossacks, and near the same number at
+Ingiga, which, though to the north of the peninsula, is, I learned, at
+present under the commander of Kamtschatka; to these may be added the
+Russian traders and emigrants, whose numbers are not very considerable.
+
+The Russian government, established over this country, is mild and
+equitable, considered as a military one, in a very high degree. The natives
+are permitted to choose their own magistrates from among themselves, in the
+way, and with the same powers, they had ever been used. One of these, under
+the title of _Toion_, presides over each ostrog; is the referee in all
+differences; imposes fines, and inflicts punishments for all crimes and
+misdemeanours; referring to the governor of Kamtschatka such only as he
+does not choose, from their intricacy or heinousness, to decide upon
+himself. The Toion has likewise the appointment of a civil officer, called
+a corporal, who assists him in the execution of his office, and in his
+absence acts as his deputy.[81]
+
+By an edict of the empress, no crime whatsoever can be punished with death.
+But we were informed, that in cases of murder (of which there are very
+few), the punishment of the knout is administered with such severity, that
+the offender, for the most part, dies under it.
+
+The only tribute exacted (which can be considered as little more than an
+acknowledgment of the Russian dominion over them) consists, in some
+districts, of a fox's skin; in others, of a sable's; and in the Kurile
+Isles, of a sea-otter's; but as this is much the most valuable, one skin
+serves to pay the tribute of several persons. The Toions collect the
+tribute in their respective districts. Besides the mildness of their
+government, the Russians have a claim to every praise for the pains they
+have bestowed, and which have been attended with great success, in
+converting them to Christianity, there remaining at present very few
+idolaters among them. If we may judge of the other missionaries, from the
+hospitable and benevolent pastor of Paratounca (who is a native on the
+mother's side), more suitable persons could not be set over this business.
+It is needless to add, that the religion taught is that of the Greek
+church.[82] Schools are likewise established in many of the ostrogs, where
+the children of both the natives and Cossacks are gratuitously instructed
+in the Russian language. The commerce of this country, as far as concerns
+the exports, is entirely confined to furs, and carried on principally by a
+company of merchants, instituted by the empress. This company originally
+consisted of twelve, and three have been lately added to it. They are
+indulged with certain privileges, and distinguished by wearing a golden
+medal, as a mark of the empress's encouragement and protection of the fur-
+trade. Besides these, there are many inferior traders (particularly of the
+Cossacks) scattered through the country. The principal merchants for the
+time they are here, reside at Bolcheretsk, or the Nichnei ostrog, in which
+two places the trade almost wholly centers. Formerly this commerce was
+altogether carried on in the way of barter, but of late years every article
+is bought and sold for ready money only; and we were surprised at the
+quantity of specie in circulation in so poor a country. The furs sell at a
+high price, and the situation and habits of life of the natives call for
+few articles in return. Our sailors brought a great number of furs with
+them from the coast of America, and were not less astonished than delighted
+with the quantity of silver the merchants paid down for them; but on
+finding neither gin-shops to resort to, nor tobacco, nor any thing else
+that they cared for, to be had for money, the roubles soon became
+troublesome companions; and I often observed them kicking about the deck.
+The merchant I have already had occasion to mention, gave our men at first
+thirty roubles for a sea-otter's skin, and for others in proportion; but
+finding that they had considerable quantities to dispose of, and that he
+had men to deal with who did not know how to keep up the market, he
+afterward bought them for much less.
+
+The articles of importation are principally European, but not confined to
+Russian manufactures; many are English and Dutch; several likewise come
+from Siberia, Bucharia, the Calmucks, and China. They consist of coarse
+woollen and linen clothes, yarn-stockings, bonnets, and gloves; thin
+Persian silks; cottons, and pieces of nankeen, silk and cotton
+handkerchiefs; brass coppers and pans, iron-stoves, files, guns, powder,
+and shot; hardware, such as hatchets, bills, knives, scissars, needles;
+looking-glasses, flour, sugar; tanned hides, boots, &c. We had an
+opportunity of seeing a great many of these articles in the hands of a
+merchant, who came in the empress's galliot from Okotzk; and I shall only
+observe generally, that they sold for treble the price they might have been
+purchased for in England. And though the merchants have so large a profit
+upon these imported goods, they have a still larger upon the furs at
+Kiachta, upon the frontiers of China, which is the great market for them.
+The best sea-otter skins sell generally in Kamtschatka for about thirty
+roubles a-piece. The Chinese merchant at Kiachta purchases them at more
+than double that price, and sells them again at Pekin at a great advance,
+where a farther profitable trade is made with some of them to Japan. If,
+therefore, a skin is worth thirty roubles in Kamtschatka, to be transported
+first to Okotzk, thence to be conveyed by land to Kiachta, a distance of
+one thousand three-hundred and sixty-four miles; and thence on to Pekin,
+seven hundred and sixty miles more; and after this to be transported to
+Japan, what a prodigiously advantageous trade might be carried on between
+this place and Japan, which is about a fortnight's, or at most three weeks,
+sail from it?
+
+All furs exported from hence across the sea of Okotzk, pay a duty of ten
+per cent., and sables a duty of twelve. And all sorts of merchandise, of
+whatever denomination, imported from Okotzk, pay half a rouble for every
+pood.[83]
+
+The duties arising from the exports and imports, of which I could not learn
+the amount, are paid at Okotzk; but the tribute is collected at
+Bolcheretsk; and, I was informed by Major Behm, amounted in value to ten
+thousand roubles annually.
+
+There were six vessels (of from forty to fifty tons burthen) employed by
+the empress between Okotzk and Bolcheretsk; five of which are appropriated
+to the transporting of stores and provisions from Okotzk to Bolcheretsk;
+except that once in two or three years, some of them go round to Awatska
+and the Kamtschatka river; the sixth is only used as a packet-boat, and
+always kept in readiness, and properly equipped for conveying dispatches.
+Besides these, there are about fourteen vessels employed by the merchants
+in the fur-trade, amongst the islands to the eastward. One of these we
+found frozen up in the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, which was to
+sail on a trading voyage to Oonalashka, as soon as the season would
+permit.[84]
+
+It is here to be observed, that the most considerable and valuable part of
+the fur-trade is carried on with the islands that lie between Kamtschatka
+and America. These were first discovered by Beering, in 1741, and being
+found to abound with sea-otters, the Russian merchants became exceedingly
+eager in searching for the other islands seen by that navigator, to the
+S.E. of Kamtschatka, called in Muller's map the islands of Seduction, St
+Abraham, &c. In these expeditions they fell in with three groups of
+islands; the first about fifteen degrees to the east of Kamtschatka, in 53 deg.
+N. latitude; the second about twelve degrees to the eastward of the former;
+and the third, Oonalashka, and the islands in its neighbourhood. These
+trading adventurers advanced also as far east as Shumagin's Islands (so
+called by Beering), the largest of which is named Kodiak. But here, as well
+as on the continent at Alashka, they met with so warm a reception in their
+attempts to compel the payment of a tribute, that they never afterward
+ventured so far. However they conquered, and made tributary the three
+groups before mentioned.
+
+In the Russian charts, the whole sea between Kamtschatka and America is
+covered with islands; for the adventurers in these expeditions frequently
+falling in with land, which they imagined did not agree with the situation
+of others laid down by preceding voyagers, immediately concluded it must be
+a new discovery, and reported it as such on their return; and, since the
+vessels employed in these expeditions were usually out three or four years,
+and oftentimes longer, these mistakes were not in the way of being soon
+rectified; It is, however, now pretty certain, that the islands already
+enumerated are all that have yet been discovered by the Russians in that
+sea, to the southward of 60 deg. of latitude.
+
+It is from these islands that the sea-otter skins, the most valuable
+article of the fur-trade, are for the most part drawn; and as they are
+brought completely under the Russian dominion, the merchants have
+settlements upon them, where their factors reside, for the purpose of
+bartering with the natives. It was with a view to the farther increase and
+extension of this trade, that the admiralty of Okotzk fitted out an
+expedition for the purpose of making discoveries to the N. and N.E. of the
+islands above-mentioned, and gave the command of it, as I have already
+observed, to Lieutenant Synd. This gentleman, having directed his course
+too far to the northward, failed in the object of his voyage; for as we
+never saw the sea-otter to the northward of Bristol Bay, it seems probable,
+that they shun those latitudes where the larger kind of amphibious sea-
+animals abound. This was the last expedition undertaken by the Russians for
+prosecuting discoveries to the eastward; but they will undoubtedly make a
+proper use of the advantages we have opened to them, by the discovery of
+Cook's River.[85]
+
+Notwithstanding the general intercourse that for the last forty years hath
+taken place between the natives, the Russians, and Cossacks, the former are
+not more distinguished from the latter by their features and general
+figure, than by their habits and cast of mind. Of the persons of the
+natives, a description hath been already given, and I shall only add, that
+their stature is much below the common size. This Major Behm attributes, in
+a great measure, to their marrying so early; both sexes generally entering
+into the conjugal state at the age of thirteen or fourteen. Their industry
+is abundantly conspicuous, without being contrasted with the laziness of
+their Russian and Cossack inmates, who are fond of intermarrying with them,
+and, as it should seem, for no other reason, but that they may be supported
+in sloth and inactivity. To this want of bodily exertion may be attributed
+those dreadful scorbutic complaints, which none of them escape; whilst the
+natives, by constant exercise and toil in the open air, are entirely free
+from them.[86]
+
+Referring the reader for an account of the manners, customs, and
+superstitions of the Kamtschadales, at the time the Russians became first
+acquainted with this country, to Krascheninnikoff, I shall proceed to a
+description of their habitations and dress.
+
+The houses (if they may be allowed that name) are of three distinct sorts,
+_jourts_, _balagans_, and _loghouses_, called here _isbas_. The first are
+their winter, the second their summer habitations; the third are altogether
+of Russian introduction, and inhabited only by the better and wealthier
+sort.
+
+The _jourts_, or winter-habitations, are constructed in the following
+manner: An oblong square, of dimensions proportioned to the number of
+persons for whom it is intended, (for it is proper to observe, that several
+families live together in the same _jourt_,) is dug in the earth to the
+depth of about six feet. Within this space strong posts, or wooden pillars,
+are fastened in the ground, at proper distances from each other, on which
+are extended the beams for the support of the roof, which is formed by
+joists, resting on the ground with one end, and on the beams with the
+other. The interstices between the joists are filled up with a strong
+wicker-work, and the whole covered with turf; so that a _jourt_ has
+externally the appearance of a round squat hillock. A hole is left in the
+centre, which serves for chimney, window, and entrance, and the inhabitants
+pass in and out by means of a strong pole (instead of a ladder), notched
+just deep enough to afford a little holding to the toe. There is likewise
+another entrance in the side, even with the ground, for the convenience of
+the women; but if a man makes use of it, he subjects himself to the same
+disgrace and derision as a sailor would who descends through lubbers hole.
+The _jourt_ consists of one apartment, of the form of an oblong square.
+Along the sides are extended broad platforms made of boards, and raised
+about six inches from the ground, which they use as seats, and on which
+they go to rest, after strewing them with mats and skins. On one side is
+the fire-place, and the side opposite is entirely set apart for the stowage
+of provisions and kitchen-utensils. At their feasts, and ceremonious
+entertainments, the hotter the _jourts_ are made for the reception of the
+guests, the greater the compliment. We found them at all times so hot, as
+to make any length of stay in them to us intolerable. They betake
+themselves to the _jourts_ the middle of October; and, for the most part,
+continue in them till the middle of May.
+
+The _balagans_ are raised upon nine posts, fixed into the earth in three
+rows, at equal distances from one another, and about thirteen feet high
+from the surface. At the height of between nine and ten feet, rafters are
+passed from post to post, and firmly secured by strong ropes. On these
+rafters are laid the joists, and the whole being covered with turf,
+constitutes the platform or floor of the _balagan_. On this is raised a
+roof of a conical figure, by means of tall poles, fastened down to the
+rafters at one end, and meeting together in a point at the top, and
+thatched over with strong coarse grass. The _balagans_ have two doors
+placed opposite each other, and they ascend to them by the same sort of
+ladders they use in the _jourts_. The lower part is left entirely open; and
+within it they dry their fish, roots, vegetables, and other articles of
+winter consumption. The proportion of _jourts_ and _balagans_, is as one to
+six; so that six families generally live together in one _jourt_.
+
+The loghouses (_isbas_) are raised with long timbers piled horizontally,
+the ends being let into one another, and the seams caulked with moss. The
+roof is sloping like that of our common cottage-houses, and thatched with
+coarse grass or rushes. The inside consists of three apartments. At one end
+is what may be called the entry, which runs the whole width and height of
+the house, and is the receptacle of their sledges, harness, and other more
+bulky gears and household stuff. This communicates with the middle and best
+apartment, furnished with broad benches, for the purpose, as hath been
+above-mentioned, of both eating and sleeping upon. Out of this is a door
+into the kitchen; one half of which is taken up by the oven or fire-place,
+so contrived, by being let into the wall that separates the kitchen and the
+middle apartment, as to warm both at the same time. Over the middle
+apartment and kitchen are two lofts, to which they ascend by a ladder
+placed in the entry. There are two small windows in each apartment, made of
+talc, and in the houses of the poorer sort of fish-skin. The beams and
+boards of the cieling are dubbed smooth with a hatchet (for they are
+unacquainted with the plane), and from the effects of the smoke are as
+black and shining as jet.
+
+A town of Kamtschatka is called an _ostrog_, and consists of several of the
+three sorts of houses above described; but of which _balagans_ are much the
+most numerous; and I must observe, that I never met with a house of any
+kind detached from an _ostrog_. Saint Peter and Saint Paul consists of
+seven loghouses, or _isbas_, nineteen _balagans_, and three _jourts_.
+Paratounca is of about the same size. Karatchin and Natcheekin contain
+fewer loghouses, but full as many _jourts_ and _balagans_ as the former;
+from whence I conclude, that such is the usual size of the _ostrogs_.[87]
+
+Having already had occasion to mention the dress of the Kamtschadale women,
+I shall here confine myself to a description of that of the men.
+
+The outermost garment is of the shape of a carter's frock. Those worn in
+summer are of nankeen; in winter they are made of skins, most commonly of
+the deer or dog, tanned on one side, the hair being left on the other,
+which is worn innermost. Under this is a close jacket of nankeen, or other
+cotton stuffs; and beneath that a shirt of thin Persian silk, of a blue,
+red, or yellow colour. The remaining part of their dress consists of a pair
+of tight trowsers, or long breeches, of leather, reaching down to the calf
+of the leg; of a pair of dog or deer-skin boots, with the hair innermost;
+and of a fur-cap, with two flaps, which are generally tied up close to the
+head, but in bad weather are let to fall round the shoulders.
+
+The fur-dress presented to me by a son of Major Behm (as already
+mentioned), is one of those worn by the Toions, on ceremonious occasions.
+The form exactly resembles that of the common exterior garment just
+described. It is made of small triangular pieces of fur, chequered brown
+and white, and joined so neatly as to appear to be one skin. A border of
+six inches breadth, wrought with threads of different coloured leather, and
+producing a rich effect, surrounds the bottom, to which is suspended a
+broad edging of the sea-otter skin. The sleeves are turned up with the same
+materials; and there is likewise an edging of it round the neck, and down
+the opening at the breast. The lining is of a smooth white skin. A cap, a
+pair of gloves, and boots, wrought with the utmost degree of neatness, and
+made of the same materials, constitute the remainder of this suit. The
+Russians in Kamtschatka wear the European dress; and the uniform of the
+troops quartered here, is of a dark-green, faced with red.
+
+As the people, situated to the north and south of this country are yet
+imperfectly known, I shall conclude the account of Kamtschatka with such
+information concerning the Kurile Islands, and the Koreki and Tschutski, as
+I have been able to acquire.
+
+The chain of islands, running in a S.W. direction from the southern
+promontory of Kamtschatka to Japan, extending from latitude 51 deg. to 45 deg., are
+called the Kuriles. They obtained this name from the inhabitants of the
+neighbourhood of Lopatka, who being themselves called Kuriles, gave their
+own name to these islands, on first becoming acquainted with them. They
+are, according to Spanberg, twenty-two in number, without reckoning the
+very small ones. The northernmost, called Shoomska, is not more than three
+leagues from the Promontory Lopatka, and its inhabitants are a mixture of
+natives and Kamtschadales. The next to the south, called Paramousir, is
+much larger than Shoomska, and inhabited by the true natives; their
+ancestors, according to a tradition among them, having come from an island
+a little farther to the south, called Onecutan. These two islands were
+first visited by the Russians in 1713, and at the same time brought under
+their dominion. The others, in order, are at present made tributary, down
+to Ooshesheer inclusive, as I am informed by the worthy pastor of
+Paratounca, who is their missionary, and visits them once in three years,
+and speaks of the islanders in terms of the highest commendation,
+representing them as a friendly, hospitable, generous, humane race of
+people, and excelling their Kamtschadale neighbours, not less in the
+formation of their bodies, than in docility and quickness of understanding.
+Though Ooshesheer is the southernmost island that the Russians have yet
+brought under their dominion, yet I understand that they trade to Ooroop,
+which is the eighteenth; and according to their accounts, the only one
+where there is a good harbour for ships of burthen. Beyond this, to the
+south, lies Nadeegsda, which was represented to us by the Russians as
+inhabited by a race of men remarkably hairy, and who, like those of Ooroop,
+live in a state of entire independence.[88]
+
+In the same direction, but inclining something more to the westward, lies a
+group of islands, which the Japanese call Jeso; a name which they also give
+to the whole chain of islands between Kamtschatka and Japan. The
+southernmost, called Matmai, hath been long subject to the Japanese, and is
+fortified and garrisoned on the side toward the continent. The two islands
+to the north-east of Matmai, Kunachir, and Zellany, and likewise the three
+still farther to the north-east, called the Three Sisters, are perfectly
+independent.
+
+A trade of barter is carried on between Matmai and the islands last
+mentioned; and between those again and the Kuriles to the northward; in
+which, for furs, dried fish, and oil, the latter get silk, cotton, iron,
+and Japanese articles of furniture.[89]
+
+The inhabitants of as many of the islands as are brought under the Russian
+dominion, are at present converted to Christianity. And probably the time
+is not very distant, when a friendly and profitable intercourse will be
+brought about between Kamtschatka and the whole of this chain of islands;
+and which will draw after it a communication with Japan itself. This may
+eventually be greatly facilitated by a circumstance related to me by Major
+Behm, that several Russians, who had been taught the Japanese language, by
+two men belonging to a vessel of that nation, which had been
+shipwrecked[90] on the coast of Kamtschatka, had been sent among those
+islands.
+
+The advantages that would accrue to the Russians by an immediate trade to
+Japan, have been already adverted to, and are too many, and too obvious, to
+need insisting upon.[91]
+
+The Koreki country includes two distinct nations, called the Wandering and
+Fixed Koriacs.
+
+The former inhabit the northern part of the isthmus of Kamtschatka, and the
+whole coast of the eastern ocean; from thence to the Anadir.
+
+The country of the Wandering Koriacks stretches along the north-east of the
+sea of Okotzk to the river Penskina, and westward toward the river Kovyma.
+
+The Fixed Koriacks have a strong resemblance to the Kamtschadales; and,
+like them, depend altogether on fishing for subsistence. Their dress and
+habitations are of the same kind. They are tributary to the Russians, and
+under the district of the Ingiga.
+
+The Wandering Koriacs occupy themselves entirely in breeding and pasturing
+deer, of which they are said to possess immense numbers; and that it is no
+unusual thing for an individual chief to have a herd of four or five
+thousand. They despise fish, and live entirely on deer. They have no
+balagans; and their only habitations are like the Kamtschadale jourts, with
+this difference, that they are covered with raw deer-skins in winter, and
+tanned ones in summer. Their sledges are drawn by deer, and never by dogs;
+which, like the latter, are likewise always spayed, in order to be trained
+to this business. The draft-deer pasture in company with the others; and
+when they are wanted, the huntsmen make use of a certain cry, which they
+instantly obey, by coming out of the herd.
+
+The priest of Paratounca informed me, that the two nations of the Koriacs,
+and the Tschutski, speak different dialects of the same language; and that
+it bears not the smallest resemblance to the Kamtschadale.
+
+The country of the Tschutski is bounded on the south by the Anadir, and
+extends along the coast to the Tschutskoi Noss. Like the Wandering
+Koriacks, their attention is principally confined to their deer, of which
+their country affords great numbers, both tame and wild. They are a stout,
+well-made, bold, warlike race of people; redoubtable neighbours to both
+nations of the Koriacs, who often feel the effects of their depredatory
+incursions. The Russians have for many years been using their endeavours to
+bring them under their dominion; and, after losing a great many men in
+their different expeditions for this purpose, have not been able to effect
+it.
+
+I shall here conclude this article, since all we can say of this people, on
+our own knowledge, hath been laid before the reader in the preceding
+volume.
+
+
+[78] It is proper to remark, that Atlassoff sent an advanced party, under
+    the command of a subaltern, called Lucas Moloskoff, who certainly
+    penetrated into Kamtschatka, and returned with an account of his
+    success before Atlassoff set out, and is therefore not unjustly
+    mentioned as the discoverer of Kamtschatka.
+
+[79] This river empties itself into the Jenesei.
+
+[80] Captain Krusenstern informs us, that the people in Kamtschatska, and
+    more especially the Kamtschadales, are decreasing in number very
+    rapidly, and from different causes. They are subject to several
+    epidemic complaints; one of which, he says, carried off upwards of
+    five thousand persons in the years 1800 and 1801. But the principal
+    causes of depopulation, which, if not speedily removed, threaten the
+    total extinction of the inhabitants, are not dependent on the
+    severity, or even any peculiar maladies of the climate. It is to the
+    excessive use of spirits, and an extraordinary disproportion in the
+    number of females, that this serious evil is to be chiefly imputed.
+    The great moral defect in the character of the native Kamtschadale, is
+    his propensity to drunkenness; in which, it will readily be believed,
+    he finds companions amongst his neighbours; and in which, still more
+    unfortunately, he is absolutely encouraged, for the most fraudulent
+    purposes, by the petty agents of the American Company, and the other
+    merchants in Kamtschatka. Nothing can be more infamous than what is
+    related by Krusenstern on this subject. Let the following description
+    suffice. It is applied by K. indeed to a state of matters which
+    formerly existed without controul, but which the government, he would
+    have us believe, has lately endeavoured to destroy. How far this
+    interference has availed, or is likely to avail, may be conjectured,
+    though not without some very painful emotions, from the circumstance
+    admitted by K. himself, that there are few Kamtschadales remaining on
+    whom its benefits can operate; and the opinion he has also given, that
+    before many years have elapsed, these few will perhaps have entirely
+    disappeared. "With no other wares," says this candid man, "than a
+    large quantity of very bad gin, the merchants travelled about the
+    country to procure furs. As soon as one of them arrived in an ostrog,
+    he treated his host with a glass of spirits. The Kamtschadales are all
+    so unfortunately attached to strong liquors, that it is absolutely
+    impossible for them to resist the pleasure of getting intoxicated. As
+    soon as he has drank a glass of gin, which he receives for nothing, he
+    instantly begs another, for which, however, he must pay; then a
+    second, a third, and so on. Still, however, he has had his spirits
+    unadulterated; but the moment he begins to be intoxicated, instead of
+    pure spirits, they give it him mixed with water; and in order that the
+    deception may be carried on with the more security, the merchants have
+    the vessels, destined for the spirits, called _fliaega_, divided into
+    two parts; in the smaller one of which they carry their unmixed
+    spirits, and in the other the mixed. The merchant now continues to ply
+    the Kamtschadale with the weaker liquor, until he becomes perfectly
+    senseless, and then takes possession of his whole stock of sables and
+    other furs, alleging, that they are to pay for the quantity of spirits
+    which he has drank. Thus, in an unfortunate moment, the Kamtschadale
+    loses the reward of many months labour and cost; and, instead of
+    providing himself with powder and shot, and other necessary and
+    indispensable articles, such as would have contributed to his own and
+    his family's comfort, he has exhausted all his wealth for one debauch,
+    which only weakens him, and renders him more helpless and destitute
+    for the future. This wretchedness is accompanied by a depression of
+    spirits, which must have a pernicious influence on his body, already
+    weakened by disease, and which, at length, from the total want of
+    substantial food, and of medical assistance, becomes unable to resist
+    such frequent attacks upon it. This appears to me the cause of their
+    annual decrease, assisted by epidemical disorders, which sweep them
+    off in great numbers." But another cause has been assigned in addition
+    to this very deplorable one, and this it may now be necessary to
+    specify a little more particularly. Let the words of the same writer
+    be taken in evidence, and we may say we have very little reason indeed
+    to give ourselves any concern about the condition of the people in
+    this distant settlement.--"The prospect of any increase of the
+    inhabitants of Kamtschatka was very much diminished, not only by the
+    smallness of the number of the remaining Russians and Kamtschadales,
+    but by that of the women bearing no kind of proportion to the men. At
+    Saint Peter and Saint Paul, where the number of inhabitants, including
+    the military, amounts to one hundred and fifty, or one hundred and
+    eighty persons, there are not five-and-twenty females. It frequently
+    happens, that the company's ships and transports winter here, and the
+    number of men is often increased to five hundred; while, on the other
+    hand, that of the women remains always the same. The consequences of
+    this pernicious disproportion are unproductive marriages, and a total
+    decline of all morals. I do not remember to have seen more than five
+    or six children at Kamtschatka, and these partly belonged to the
+    officers, and partly to such of the inhabitants as had distinguished
+    themselves by their exemplary conduct. All the marriages, with the
+    exception of three or four, were entirely unproductive." It is almost
+    needless to remark, that if the suggestions which Krusenstern has
+    given, have not been adopted and acted on, the superiority of the
+    diminishing agents will have wrought such an effect since his visit,
+    as may render it problematical whether or not this country ought to be
+    reckoned amongst the inhabited regions of the earth.--E.
+
+[81] The Tayon, or Toyon, according to Krusenstern, is a person chosen from
+    amongst the inhabitants, and has a character somewhat similar to that
+    of _starost_, or elder, in the Russian villages. He has an officer
+    under him, who bears the title of _jessaul_, the corporal of the tent,
+    who, properly speaking, holds the executive authority of the ostrog,
+    as the tayon seldom does more than deliver orders to him. When the
+    tayon is absent, the jessaul assumes his place, and is supported by
+    the eldest Kamtschadale in the ostrog, who, for the time being,
+    becomes his substitute as jessaul. The power of the tayon is said to
+    be considerable, extending to the infliction of corporal punishment,
+    not, however, exceeding twenty lashes; and his duty, in addition to
+    the internal administration of his ostrog, consists in collecting the
+    best sables as a tribute to the government, and carrying them to town,
+    where they are examined by certain magistrates, appointed for the
+    purpose, and afterwards taxed by a person authorised by the crown.
+    Enough has been already shewn, it may be thought, for calling in
+    question the mildness, or at least the good policy, of the government
+    established here. A circumstance is mentioned by Krusenstern, which
+    seems to imply something very different, though lately modified, we
+    are told, and not without reason, as, to use his own words, it is
+    surprising that people could have endured it for a single hour. It may
+    be explained in a few words. The capitation tax, which is common
+    throughout the Russian empire, is levied according to a census, or
+    revision, which is generally taken every twenty years. Where the
+    population is on the increase, this is manifestly an advantage to the
+    subjects, who would necessarily have more to pay, if the imposition
+    were accurately adjusted to the annual augmentation of numbers. But
+    the operation of the principle becomes peculiarly oppressive, where,
+    on the contrary, as in Kamtschatka, the population has been gradually
+    diminishing, and, during some years, had been rapidly reduced. Thus,
+    in many of the ostrogs, we are told, that the inhabitants had declined
+    from thirty or forty, to eight or ten; and yet the tribute continued
+    to be levied on the remainder, according to the preceding census! This
+    was, in reality, the _caput mortuum_ of taxation, and perhaps was
+    never equalled, at least never surpassed, in absurdity, by the _ways
+    and means_ of any other government. Had this system continued for any
+    length of time, it is probable, that one or two individuals would at
+    length have had the _supreme_ felicity of being in reality the
+    representatives of a whole nation, and of course of paying for the
+    extraordinary honour. This reminds one of a curious enough occurrence
+    said to have happened after a battle in Germany, in which a regiment,
+    belonging to the Earl of Tyrconnel, had been engaged. A general muster
+    having taken place, his Lordship's regiment was of course called for,
+    when a soldier, stepping from the ranks, immediately replied, "I am
+    Lord Tyrconnel's regiment!" In fact, the poor fellow was the only
+    responsible survivor.--E.
+
+[82] Krusenstern, who, as we have seen, is far from sparing the laity in
+    the distribution of his censures, makes every bit as free with the
+    clergy. "The priest of St Peter and St Paul," says he, "was a scandal
+    to his profession; in the interior, they are said to be no better, and
+    to be particularly obnoxious to the Kamtschadales." This is a serious
+    evil, no doubt, but it may reasonably be expected to cease with the
+    complaints of the parishioners, as it is very unlikely that at
+    Kamtschatka as elsewhere, there should be found any shepherds without
+    flocks. To be sure, in some other countries, where this occasionally
+    happens, there is this important difference, that the pasture at least
+    is worth looking after!--E.
+
+[83] Thirty-six pounds English.
+
+[84] This description, little as it may excite any high opinion of the
+    prosperity of the place, is nevertheless nearly a contrast to that
+    which Krusenstern has given. "The first prospect of St Peter and St
+    Paul might raise in the mind of a person newly arrived, and ignorant
+    of the history of this Russian establishment, the idea of its being a
+    colony founded a few years before, but recently abandoned. Nothing is
+    visible here that could at all persuade any one of its being inhabited
+    by civilized people; not only Awatska Bay, but the three adjoining
+    ones, are entirely forlorn and uninhabited; nor is the beautiful
+    harbour of St Peter and St Paul enlivened by a single boat. Instead of
+    this, the shores are strewed with stinking fish, among which a number
+    of half-starved dogs are seen wallowing, and contending for
+    possession. Two baidars belonging to the port, and hauled on shore at
+    a low sandy point of land, would be an additional proof of the infancy
+    of this colony; if, at the same time, you did not perceive the wreck
+    of a three-masted ship, bearing evident marks of having been in its
+    present condition for some years. This is the Slawa Rossi, the ship
+    which Captain Billing commanded, but which, after the completion of
+    his voyage, foundered in the harbour from want of care. The appearance
+    immediately brings to mind the celebrated Behring, who, seventy years
+    before, commenced his voyage of discovery from this port; But not only
+    the two baidars, but the sinking of the ship itself, are too clear a
+    proof that the nautical concerns of this colony are still in a state
+    of infancy." Krusenstern's descriptions, we see, come after King's,
+    somewhat in the manner of Holbein's Dance of Death, after whatever was
+    promising or agreeable!--E.
+
+[85] In Mr Coxe's work, we have accounts of three voyages subsequent to
+    Synd's, viz. those of Shelekof, of Ismaelof and Betsharoff, and of
+    Billings, all of which were performed betwixt 1778 and 1792. The
+    second of these, according to Mr Coxe's opinion, is by far the most
+    interesting of any yet made by the Russians. The last, which was of
+    very long continuance, and occasioned an enormous expence to the
+    government, did not fully answer the expectations entertained of it.
+    The commander, an Englishman, is not spoken highly of by Krusenstern,
+    who tells us, indeed, that, among the Russian naval officers, there
+    were many who would have conducted the expedition much more creditably
+    than he did. This may, no doubt, be very true. But how comes it, that
+    they were not known in time to be employed? Or, admitting that they
+    were known for superiority of talents, but that some reasons,
+    independent of any consideration of respective qualifications, decided
+    against their being employed, who was to blame, it may be asked, in
+    selecting an incompetent, or at least an inferior person, for the
+    command of so important an undertaking? Captain Krusenstern may be a
+    very able officer; indeed, no one can read his work without
+    entertaining a high opinion of his moral and professional character.
+    It is shrewdly to be suspected, however, that he is somewhat deficient
+    in that prophetic eye of wise policy, which at one glance can
+    ascertain the effects and consequences of one's own assertions and
+    reasonings. It is not thought advisable to enter upon the
+    consideration of the subject now adverted to by Captain King, as a
+    fitter opportunity will in all probability present itself for the
+    necessary discussion.--E.
+
+[86] Captain Krusenstern, as may have been already perceived, thinks very
+    highly of the Kamtschadale character. In his judgment, the only
+    objection to it applies to that superinduced propensity in which the
+    avaricious merchant has so often found his account, though to the ruin
+    of the unthinking individuals subjected to his temptations. Their
+    honesty is greatly extolled; and a cheat is as rare among the
+    Kamtschadales as a man of property. So great is the confidence placed
+    in them in this respect, that it is quite usual, we are told, for
+    travellers, on arriving at an ostrog, to give their whole effects,
+    even their stock of _brandy_, &c. into the hands of the tayon, and
+    there is no instance of any one having been robbed to the smallest
+    extent. "Lieutenant Koscheleff," says K., "with his accustomed
+    simplicity, told me that he had once been sent by his brother, the
+    governor, with thirteen thousand roubles to distribute among the
+    different towns; that every evening he made over his box with the
+    money to the tayon of the ostrog where he slept, and felt much easier,
+    having so disposed of it, _than he would perhaps have done in any inn
+    in St Petersburgh_." No doubt, the superior purity of the country air
+    would occasion some difference in his feelings! The hospitality of the
+    Kamtschadales forms another topic of eulogium. With such moral
+    virtues, then, in alliance with great industry, and considerable
+    intelligence, it is not to be wondered, that Krusenstern should speak
+    of the probable extinction of this race as a most alarming calamity.
+    But we have seen that hitherto little care has been manifested to
+    prevent its occurrence. The very subject we are now on presents us
+    with another sample of the gross impolicy, not to speak of inhumanity
+    or injustice, that has been shewn towards these most valuable people.
+    The following passage from Krusenstern may be allowed to warrant the
+    most severe opinion we can possibly form of any government, that could
+    require such services from _its slaves_. "The necessity of the
+    Kamtschadales in Kamtschatka is sufficiently proved, by their being
+    every where the guides through the country, and by their conveying the
+    mail, which they do likewise, free of expence. In the winter, they are
+    obliged to conduct travellers and estafettes from one ostrog to
+    another; they supply the dogs of those who travel with jukulla; they
+    also lodge the travellers; this, however, they are not obliged to do.
+    This hospitable people has, of its own accord, engaged to lodge every
+    traveller, and to feed his dogs, without demanding any remuneration.
+    In every ostrog there is a supply of fish set apart for this purpose.
+    In general, the governor and all officers keep dogs, so that in this
+    respect they are not burthen-some to the Kamtschadales; but a story is
+    told of a magistrate high in office, having been here a short time
+    since, who never travelled but in a sledge like a small house, drawn
+    by an hundred dogs. Besides this, he is said to have journeyed with
+    such rapidity, that at every station several of these animals
+    belonging to the Kamtschadales expired, which he never paid for. In
+    the summer, the Kamtschadale is obliged to be always ready with his
+    boat to conduct the traveller either up or down the rivers; nor can
+    the soldier be sent any where without having one of these people for
+    his guide. Thus it frequently happens that they are absent a fortnight
+    or more from their ostrog, and lose the best opportunity of providing
+    themselves with fish for the winter, as, besides the mere act of
+    taking the fish, it requires several days of fine summer weather to
+    dry them. If the wet should set in, during this operation, the fish
+    instantly becomes magotty, and the whole stock is rendered useless.
+    From the great numbers of soldiers, (as, besides the cossacks, there
+    is a battalion of five hundred men, and about twenty officers,
+    quartered in Kamtschatka), and the small number of Kamtschadales, it
+    must be sufficiently evident, that the latter are frequently taken
+    from their work, and, it may be added, almost without remuneration;
+    for the post-money allowed by the crown, which amounts to one kopeck
+    the werst, considering the high price of every article, is, surely,
+    not only an inconsiderable, but an insulting reward for the service
+    performed," Thus far K. To some readers, it may be necessary to
+    mention, in order to their due understanding of this reward, that 100
+    kopecks make a rouble, the value of which varies according to the rate
+    of exchange from 2s. 6d. to 4s. 2d. British, having been so low as the
+    former rate in the year 1803, and that three wersts are about equal to
+    two English miles, so that we may fairly enough estimate this insult,
+    as K. expresses it, at one half-penny per mile!--E.
+
+[87] Krusenstern's description of the houses and their contents is exactly
+    in proportion to the other parts of his very unfavourable report. Even
+    of two of them, which he says are the very ornament of Kamtschatka,
+    the furniture is represented as most wretchedly deficient. "That of
+    the anti-room consisted merely of a wooden stool, a table, and two or
+    three broken chairs. There was neither earthen-ware nor porcelain
+    table-service; no glasses, decanters, nor any thing else of a similar
+    nature; two or three tea-cups, one glass, a few broken knives and
+    forks, and some pewter spoons, constituted the wealth of the good
+    people (two artillery officers) who were both married. But what most
+    of all distressed me, was the condition of their windows; they had not
+    double sashes, which, in a cold climate, are as necessary to health as
+    to comfort; but such even as they had, were in a very wretched
+    condition. The panes were of glass, but notwithstanding their extreme
+    smallness, they were all of them broken, and made of pieces fitted
+    together. They afforded no protection against the snow and frost; and
+    I could not, without feelings of commiseration, behold the children,
+    who, in no part of the world, are brought up so wretchedly as here."
+    If such were the condition of the best houses, we shall have little
+    reason, for the sake of any pleasure at least, to make any enquiry as
+    to those of an inferior kind, belonging to the other inhabitants. It
+    is perhaps enough then to say in general terms, that they are all ill
+    built, that they are so low, as to be entirely covered up with snow
+    during the winter, and that in consequence of this circumstance, they
+    are throughout that period completely deprived of the fresh air, to
+    which want, and to the badness of their provisions, it is
+    unquestionably with perfect truth that K. ascribes the pallid hue of
+    all the inhabitants, even, as he adds, of the youngest females. The
+    construction of a house at St Peter and St Paul, we are further told,
+    is very expensive, as there is no suitable timber in the neighbourhood
+    of the town, and the people are consequently necessitated to bring it
+    from the interior. It is in this manner that thirty or forty soldiers
+    are employed, when any public building is to be erected. They are sent
+    out under the command of an officer, and for several weeks, during
+    which time, and at imminent risk, they fell the timber, and float it
+    down the rivers. Thus says K., "the whole garrison of Kamtschatka had
+    been occupied during two years in building some barracks for ten or
+    twelve men, nor were they even then completed; and the church, on
+    which they had been several years employed, was in the same
+    predicament!" It is, no doubt, a very natural consequence of such slow
+    procedure, that, before a building is quite finished, some part of it
+    falls to pieces. Some persons have suggested the use of bricks in
+    place of timber, and it seems pretty obvious, from K.'s account, that
+    this is quite practicable. It may well be doubted, however; if either
+    the prejudices or the indolence of the people will yield to the
+    innovation; and much more, indeed, may it be doubted, if the people in
+    fact will ever require more houses than those which already exist. If
+    they should, notwithstanding such weighty evidence as has been adduced
+    to the contrary, the advice which K. has given on the subject, would
+    deserve the serious consideration of the government.--E.
+
+[88] Spanberg places the island here spoken of in 43 deg. 50' N. latitude, and
+    mentions his having watered upon it; and that this watering-party
+    brought off eight of the natives; of whom he relates the following
+    circumstances: That their bodies were covered all over with hair; that
+    they wore a loose striped silk gown, reaching as low as their ankles;
+    and that some of them had silver rings pendant from the ears; that, on
+    spying a live cock on deck, they fell down on their knees before it;
+    and likewise, before the presents that were bronght out to them,
+    closing and stretching forth their hands, and bowing their heads, at
+    the same time, down to the ground; that, except the peculiarity of
+    their hairiness, they resemble the other Kurile islanders in their
+    features and figure, and spoke the same language. The journal of the
+    ship Castricom also mentions this circumstance, of the inhabitants of
+    the country discovered by them, and called Jeso, being hairy all over
+    the body.
+
+[89] This accounts for what Krascheninnikoff says, that he got from
+    Paramousir a japanned table and vase, a scymeter, and a silver ring,
+    which he sent to the cabinet of her imperial majesty, at Petersburg.
+    And if what Mr Steller mentions, on the authority of a Kurile, who was
+    interpreter to Spanberg in his voyage to Japan, is to be credited,
+    that nearly the same language is spoken at Kunashir and Paramousir, it
+    cannot be questioned, that some intercourse has always subsisted
+    between the inhabitants of this extensive chain of islands.
+
+[90] The vessel here spoken of was from Satsma, a port in Japan, bound for
+    another Japanese port, called Azaka, and laden with rice, cotton, and
+    silks. She sailed with a favourable wind; but, before she reached her
+    destination, was driven out to sea by a violent storm, which carried
+    away her masts and rudder.
+
+    On the storm's abating, not one of the crew, which consisted of
+    seventeen (having probably never made any other than coasting
+    voyages), knew where they were, or what course to steer. After
+    remaining in this situation six months, they were driven on shore near
+    the promontory Lopatka; and having cast out an anchor, began to carry
+    on shore such articles as were necessary to their existence. They next
+    erected a tent, and had remained in it twenty-three days without
+    seeing a human being; when chance conducted a cossack officer, called
+    Andrew Chinnikoff, with a few Kamtschadales, to their habitation. The
+    poor unfortunate Japanese, overwhelmed with joy at the sight of fellow
+    creatures, made the most significant tenders, they were able, of
+    friendship and affection; and presented their visitors with silks,
+    sabres, and a part of whatever else they had brought from the ship.
+    The treacherous Chinnikoff made reciprocal returns of kindness and
+    good-will; and, after remaining with them long enough to make such
+    observations as suited his designs, withdrew from them in the night.
+    The Japanese, finding that their visitors did not return, knew not
+    what course to take. In despair they manned their boat, and were
+    rowing along the coast in search of a habitation, when they came up
+    with their vessel, which had been driven ashore; and found Chinnikoff
+    and his companions pillaging her, and pulling her in pieces for the
+    sake of the iron. This sight determined them to continue their course,
+    which Chinnikoff perceiving, ordered his men to pursue and massacre
+    them. The unfortunate Japanese, seeing a canoe in pursuit, and which
+    they could not escape, apprehended what was to follow. Some of them
+    leaped into the sea; others, in vain, had recourse to prayers and
+    entreaties. They were all massacred but two, by the very sabres they
+    had presented to their supposed friends a few days before. One of the
+    two was a boy about eleven years old, named Gowga, who had accompanied
+    his father, the ship's pilot, to learn navigation; the other was a
+    middle-aged man, the supercargo, and called Sosa.
+
+    Chinnikoff soon met with the punishment due to his crimes. The two
+    strangers were conducted to Petersburgh, where they were sent to the
+    academy, with proper instructors and attendants; and several young men
+    were, at the same time, put about them for the purpose of learning the
+    Japanese language.
+
+    They were thrown on the coast of Kamtschatka in 1730. The younger
+    survived the absence from his country five, the other six years. Their
+    portraits are to be seen in the cabinet of the empress at
+    Petersburgh.--Vid. Krascheninnikoff, vol. ii. part 4. Fr. Ed.
+
+[91] Attempts have been made at different periods by the Russians to open
+    up a trade with Japan; and, indeed, one purpose of the voyage which
+    Captain Krusenstern undertook, was to conciliate the emperor or
+    government of that island. No one, who is at all acquainted with the
+    history of the people, will be surprised to learn that the Japanese
+    did not think themselves honoured by the embassy; that they even
+    refused the presents which had been carried out, and would not concede
+    the favour of an alliance which was courted. The result of the whole,
+    in fact, was rather a loss than a gain, as a permission which had been
+    previously given to visit Nangasaky was withdrawn. Thus, says K., "all
+    communication is now at an end between Japan and Russia, unless some
+    great change should take place in the ministry of Jeddo, or, indeed,
+    in the government itself, and this is perhaps not to be expected." We
+    are told, however, in a note, that some revolution is understood
+    actually to have taken place after this visit, and that too in
+    consequence of this dismissal of the Russian embassy. This is said on
+    the authority of a Lieutenant Chwostoff, who heard of it from the
+    Japanese, when he visited the northern coast of Jesso in 1806 and
+    1807. But as no particulars are mentioned, and as, indeed, the thing
+    is somewhat unlikely, one may be allowed to call in question the truth
+    of the report. The Russians then, like, the Spaniards, Portugueze,
+    English, and Americans, have utterly failed in establishing any
+    commercial intercourse with Japan; and the Dutch alone, of any of the
+    European nations, have continued, by virtue of their _bowing
+    propensities_, &c., to profit by a direct connection with it.--E.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION VIII.
+
+
+Plan of our future Proceedings.--Course to the Southward, alone the Coast
+of Kamtschatka.--Cape Lopatka.--Pass the Islands Shoomska and Paramousir.--
+Driven to the Eastward of the Kuriles.--Singular Situation with respect to
+the pretended Discoveries of former Navigators.--Fruitless Attempts to
+reach the Islands North of Japan.--Geographical Conclusions.--View of the
+Coast of Japan.--Run along the East Side.--Pass two Japanese Vessels.--
+Driven off the Coast by contrary Winds.--Extraordinary Effect of
+Currents.--Steer for the Bashees.--Pass large Quantities of Pumice Stone.--
+Discover Sulphur Island.--Pass the Pratas.--Isles of Lema, and Ladrone
+Island.--Chinese Pilot taken on board the Resolution.--Journals of the
+Officers and Men secured.[92]
+
+
+Our instructions from the Board of Admiralty having left a discretionary
+power with the commanding-officer of the expedition, in case of failure in
+the search of a passage from the Pacific into the Atlantic Ocean, to return
+to England, by whatever route he should think best for the farther
+improvement of geography, Captain Gore demanded of the principal officers
+their sentiments, in writing, respecting the manner in which these orders
+might most effectually be obeyed. The result of our opinions, which he had
+the satisfaction to find unanimous, and entirely coinciding with his own,
+was, that the condition of the ships, of the sails, and cordage, made it
+unsafe to attempt, at so advanced a season of the year, to navigate the sea
+between Japan and Asia; which would otherwise have afforded the largest
+field for discovery; that it was therefore adviseable to keep to the
+eastward of that island, and in our way thither to run along the Kuriles,
+and examine more particularly the islands that lie nearest the northern
+coast of Japan, which are represented as of a considerable size, and
+independent of the Russian and Japanese governments. Should we be so
+fortunate as to find in these any safe and commodious harbours, we
+conceived they might be of importance, either as places of shelter for any
+future navigators, who may be employed in exploring the seas, or as the
+means of opening a commercial intercourse among the neighbouring dominions
+of the two empires. Our next object was to survey the coast of the Japanese
+Islands, and afterward to make the coast of China, as far to the northward
+as we were able, and run along it to Macao.
+
+This plan being adopted, I received orders from Captain Gore, in case of
+separation, to proceed immediately to Macao; and at six o'clock in the
+evening of the 9th of October, having cleared the entrance of Awatska Bay,
+we steered to the S.E., with the wind N.W. and by W. At midnight we had a
+dead calm, which continued till noon of the 10th; the light-house at this
+time bearing N. 1/2 W., distant five leagues, and Cape Gavareea, S. by W.
+1/2 W. Being luckily in soundings of sixty and seventy fathoms water, we
+employed our time very profitably in catching cod, which were exceedingly
+fine and plentiful; and at three in the afternoon, a breeze sprung up from
+the W., with which we stood along the coast to the southward. A head-land,
+bearing S. by W., now opened with Cape Gavareea, lying about seven leagues
+beyond it. Between them are two narrow, but deep inlets, which may probably
+unite behind what appears to be an high island. The coast of these inlets
+is steep and cliffy. The hills break abruptly, and form chasms and deep
+vallies, which are well wooded. Between Cape Gavareea (which lies in
+latitude 52 deg. 21', longitude 158 deg. 38') and Awatska Bay, there are
+appearances of several inlets, which at first sight may flatter the mariner
+with hopes of finding shelter and safe anchorage; but the Russian pilots
+assured us, that there are none capable of admitting vessels of the
+smallest size, as the low land fills up the spaces that appear vacant
+between the high projecting head-lands. Toward evening, it again became
+calm; but at midnight we had a light breeze from the N., which increased
+gradually to a strong gale; and at noon the next day we found ourselves in
+latitude 52 deg. 4', longitude 158 deg. 31', when Cape Gavareea bore N. by W. 1/4,
+W.; the south extreme, S.W. 1/2 W. We were at this time distant from the
+nearest shore about three leagues, and saw the whole country inland covered
+with snow. A point of land to the southward, which we place in latitude 51 deg.
+54', formed the north side of a deep bay, called Achachinskoi, in the
+distant bottom of which we supposed a large river to empty itself, from the
+land behind being so unusually low. South of Achachinskoi Bay, the land is
+not so rugged and barren as that part of the country which we had before
+passed.
+
+During the night we had variable winds and rain; but at four in the morning
+of the 12th, it began to blow so strong from the N.E., as to oblige us to
+double reef the top-sails, and make it prudent to stand more off the shore.
+At six, the weather becoming more moderate and fair, we again made sail,
+and stood in for the land. At noon, our latitude was 51 deg. 0', longitude 157 deg.
+25'. The northernmost land in sight, being the point we have mentioned as
+first opening with Cape Gavareea, bore N.N.E. A head-land, with a flat top,
+which is in latitude 51 deg. 27', and makes the south point of an inlet, called
+Girowara, bore N. 1/4 E.,.and the southernmost land in sight, W.3/4 N.,
+distant six leagues. At this time we could just perceive low land
+stretching from the southern extreme; but the wind veering round to the
+N.W., we could not get a nearer view of it. At six in the afternoon we saw,
+from the mast-head, Cape Lopatka, the southernmost extremity of
+Kamtschatka. It is a very low flat cape, sloping gradually from the high
+level land that we saw at noon, and bore W.N., about five leagues distant;
+and the high land, N.W. by W. 1/2 W. As this point of land forms so marked
+an object in the geography of the eastern coast of Asia, we were glad to be
+able, by an accurate observation, and several good angles, to determine its
+precise situation, which is in latitude 51 deg. 0', longitude 156 deg. 45'. To the
+N.W. of it we saw a remarkably high mountain, the top of which loses itself
+in the clouds; and, at the same time, the first of the Kurile Islands,
+called Shoomska, appeared in sight, bearing W. 1/2 S. The passage between
+this island and Cape Lopatka, the Russians describe as being three miles
+broad, and very dangerous on account of the rapidity of the tides, and the
+sunk rocks that are off the cape. From Cape Gavareea to Lopatka, the coast
+trends S.E. South of Achachinskoi, the land is not so high and broken as
+between that bay and the mouth of Awatska, being only of a moderate
+elevation toward the sea, with hills gradually rising farther back in the
+country. The coast is steep and bold, and full of white chalky patches.
+
+At noon, the weather falling again to a calm, afforded us an opportunity of
+catching some fine cod. We were, at this time, in forty fathoms water, and
+about five or six leagues from Cape Lopatka. Both in the fore and
+afternoon, we had observations, with different compasses, for the
+variation, and found it to be 5 deg. 20' E.
+
+We stood on all night, under an easy sail, to the S.S.W., having the wind
+westerly. At midnight we sounded, and had sixty fathoms; and, at day-break
+of the 13th, we saw the second of the Kurile Islands, (called by the
+Russians Paramousir,) extending from N.W. by W. to W. 1/2 S. This land is
+very high, and almost entirely covered with snow. At noon, the extremes
+bore from N.N.W. 1/2 W. to W.N.W. 1/2 W.; and a high peaked mountain, from
+which some thought they saw smoke issuing, N.W. by W. 1/2 W., about twelve
+or fourteen leagues distant. At this time our latitude, by observation, was
+49 deg. 49', and our longitude 157 deg. O'. In the course of the day we saw many
+gulls and albatrosses, and several whales.
+
+Paramousir is the largest of the Kuriles under the dominion of Russia, and
+well deserves a more accurate survey, than we were at this time allowed to
+take. For, in the afternoon, the gale increasing from the W., we were never
+able to approach it nearer than we had done at noon; and were, therefore,
+obliged to be contented with endeavouring to ascertain its situation at
+that distance. We place the S. end of the island in latitude 49 deg. 58', the
+N. end in latitude 50 deg. 46', and in longitude 10' W. of Lopatka; and as this
+position is found not to differ materially from that given by the Russians,
+it is probably very near the truth. Whilst we were abreast of this island,
+we had a very heavy swell from the N.E., though the wind had, for some
+time, been from the westward, a circumstance which we have already remarked
+more than once during the course of our voyage. In the night we tried for
+soundings, but found no ground with fifty fathoms of line.
+
+On the 14th and 15th, the wind blowing steadily and fresh from the
+westward, we were obliged to stand to the southward; and consequently
+hindered from seeing any more of the Kurile Islands. At noon of the 16th,
+the latitude, by observation, was 45 deg. 27', the longitude, deduced from a
+number of lunar observations taken during the three days past, 155 deg. 3O'.
+The variation 4 deg. 30' E. In this situation, we were almost surrounded by the
+supposed discoveries of former navigators, and uncertain to which we should
+turn ourselves. To the southward and the S.W. were placed, in the French
+charts, a group of five islands, called the Three Sisters, Zellany and
+Kunashir. We were about ten leagues, according to the same maps, to the
+westward of the land of De Gama, which we had passed to the eastward in
+April last, at a distance rather less than this, without seeing any
+appearance of it; from which circumstance we may now conclude, that, if
+such land exist at all, it must be an island of a very inconsiderable
+size.[93] On the other hand, if we give credit to the original position of
+this land, fixed by Texiera, it lay to the W. by S.; and as the Company's
+Land,[94] Staten Island,[95] and the famous land of Jeso,[96] were also
+supposed to lie nearly in the same direction, together with the group first
+mentioned, according to the Russian charts, we thought this course deserved
+the preference, and accordingly hauled round to the westward, the wind
+having shifted in the afternoon to the northward. During this day we saw
+large flocks of gulls, several albatrosses, fulmars, and a number of fish,
+which our sailors called grampuses; but, as far as we could judge, from the
+appearance of those that passed close by the ships, we imagined them to be
+the _kasatka_, or sword-fish, described by Krascheninnikoff, to whom I
+refer the reader, for a curious account of the manner in which they attack
+the whales. In the evening, a visit from a small land-bird, about the size
+of a goldfinch, and resembling that bird in shape and plumage, made us keep
+a good look-out for land. However, at midnight, on trying for soundings, we
+found no ground with forty-five fathoms of line.
+
+On the 17th, at noon, we were in latitude 45 deg. 7', by observation, longitude
+154 deg. 0'. The wind now again coming to the westward, obliged us to steer a
+more southerly course; and, at midnight, it blew from that quarter a fresh
+gale, accompanied with heavy rain. In the morning, we saw another land-
+bird, and many flocks of gulls and peterels bending their course to the
+S.W. The heavy N.E. swell, with which we had constantly laboured since our
+departure from Lopatka, now ceased, and changed suddenly to the S.E. In the
+forenoon of the 18th; we passed great quantities of rock-weed, from which,
+and the flights of birds above-mentioned, we conjectured we were at no
+great distance from the southernmost of the Kuriles; and, at the same time,
+the wind coming round to the S., enabled us to stand in for it. At two, we
+set studding-sails, and steered W.; but the wind increasing to a gale, soon
+obliged as to double reef the top-sails; and, at midnight, we judged it
+necessary to try for soundings. Accordingly we hove to; but, finding no
+bottom at seventy-five fathoms, we were encouraged to persevere, and again
+bore away W., with the wind at S.E. This course we kept till two in the
+morning, when the weather becoming thick, we hauled our wind, and steered
+to the S.W. till five, when a violent storm reduced us to our courses.
+
+Notwithstanding the unfavourable state of the weather left us little
+prospect of making the land, we still kept this object anxiously in view;
+and, at day-light, ventured to steer W. by S., and continued to stand on in
+this direction till ten in the forenoon, when the wind, suddenly shifting
+to the S.W., brought with it clear weather. Of this we had scarcely taken
+advantage, by setting the top-sails, and letting out the reefs, when it
+began to blow so strong from this quarter, that we were forced to close-
+reef again; and, at noon, the wind shifting two points to the W., rendered
+it vain to keep any longer on this tack. We therefore put about, and
+steered to the southward. At this time, our latitude, by observation, was
+44 deg. 12', and longitude 150 deg. 40'; so that, after all our efforts, we had the
+mortification to find ourselves, according to the Russian charts, upon a
+meridian with Nadeegsda, which they make the southernmost of the Kurile
+Islands, and about twenty leagues to the southward.
+
+But, though the violent and contrary winds we had met with during the last
+six days, prevented our getting in with these islands, yet the course we
+had been obliged to hold, is not without its geographical advantages. For
+the group of islands, consisting of the Three Sisters, Kunashir, and
+Zellany, (which, in D'Anville's maps, are placed in the track we had just
+crossed,) being, by this means, demonstratively removed from that
+situation, an additional proof is obtained of their lying to the westward,
+where Spanberg actually places them, between the longitude 142 deg. and 147 deg..
+But as the space is occupied, in the French charts, by part of the supposed
+land of Jeso and Staten Island, Mr Muller's opinion becomes extremely
+probable, that they are all the same lands; and, as no reasons appear for
+doubting Spanberg's accuracy, we have ventured, in our general map, to
+reinstate the Three Sisters, Zellany, and Kunashir, in their proper
+situation, and have entirely omitted the rest. When the reader recollects
+the manner in which the Russians have multiplied the islands of the
+Northern Archipelago, from the want of accuracy in determining their real
+situation, and the desire men naturally feel of propagating new
+discoveries, he will not be surprised, that the same causes should produce
+the same effects. It is thus that the Jesoian lands, which appear, both
+from the accounts of the Japanese, and the earliest Russian traditions, to
+be no other than the Southern Kurile islands, have been supposed distinct
+from the latter. The land of De Gama is next on record; and was originally
+placed nearly in the same situation with those just mentioned, but was
+removed, as has been already suggested, to make room for Staten Island, and
+the Company's Land; and as Jeso, and the southernmost of the Kuriles, had
+also possession of this space, that nothing might be lost, they were
+provided for, the former a little to the westward, and the latter to the
+eastward.
+
+As the islands of Zellany and Kunashir, according to the Russian charts,
+were still to the southward, we were not without hopes of being able to
+mate them, and therefore kept our head as much to the westward as the wind
+would permit. On the 20th, at noon, we were in latitude 43 deg. 47', and
+longitude 150 deg. 30'; and steering W. by S., with a moderate breeze from
+S.E., and probably not more than twenty-four leagues to the eastward of
+Zellany, when our good fortune again deserted us. For, at three o'clock in
+the afternoon, the wind, veering round to the N.W., began to blow so
+strong, that we were brought under our foresail and mizen stay-sail. We had
+very heavy squalls and hard rain, during the next twenty-four hours; after
+which, the horizon clearing a little, and the weather growing moderate, we
+were enabled to set the top-sails; but the wind, still continuing to blow
+from the N.W., baffled all our endeavours to make the land, and obliged us,
+at last, to give up all further thoughts of discovery to the N. of Japan.
+We submitted to this disappointment with the greater reluctance, as the
+accounts that are given of the inhabitants of these islands, mentioned at
+the end of the last section, had excited in us the greater curiosity to
+visit them.
+
+In the afternoon, the leach-rope of the Resolution's fore top-sail gave
+way, and split the sail. As this accident had often happened to us in
+Captain Cook's life-time, he had ordered the foot and leach ropes of the
+topsails to be taken out, and larger fixed in their stead; and as these
+also proved unequal to the strain that was on them, it is evident, that the
+proper proportion of strength between those ropes and the sail is
+exceedingly miscalculated in our service. This day a land-bird perched on
+the rigging, and was taken; it was larger than a sparrow, but, in other
+respects, very like one.
+
+The gale now abated gradually; so that, in the morning of the 22d, we let
+out the reefs of the topsails, and made more sail. At noon, we were in
+latitude 40 deg. 58', and longitude 148 deg. 17', the variation 3 deg. E. In the
+afternoon, another little wanderer from the land pitched on the ship, and
+was so worn out with fatigue, that it suffered itself to be taken
+immediately, and died a few hours afterward. It was not bigger than a wren,
+had a tuft of yellow feathers on its head, and the rest of its plumage like
+that of the linnet. The sparrow, being stronger, lived a long time. These
+birds plainly indicating, that we could not be at any great distance from
+the land, and the wind, after varying a little, fixing in the evening at
+N., our hopes of making the land again revived, and we hauled up to the
+W.N.W., in which direction, the southernmost islands seen by Spanberg, and
+said to be inhabited by hairy men, lay at the distance of about fifty
+leagues. But the wind not keeping pace with our wishes, blew in such light
+airs, that we made little way, till eight next morning, when we had a fresh
+breeze from the S.S.W., with which we continued to steer W.N.W. till the
+evening. At noon, we were in latitude 40 deg. 35', longitude 146 deg. 45'; the
+latter deduced from several lunar observations taken during the night. The
+variation of the needle we found to be 17' E. In the evening, we had strong
+squally gales attended with rain, and having passed, in the course of the
+day, several patches of green grass, and seen a shag, many small land-
+birds, and flocks of gulls, it was not thought prudent, with all these
+signs of the vicinity of land, to stand on during the whole night. We
+therefore tacked at midnight, and steered a few hours to the S.E., and, at
+four in the morning of the 24th, again directed our course to the W.N.W.,
+and carried a press of sail till seven in the evening, when the wind
+shifted from S.S.W. to N., and blew a fresh gale. At this time we were in
+the latitude of 40 deg. 57', and the longitude of 145 deg. 20'.
+
+This second disappointment in our endeavours to get to the N.W., together
+with the boisterous weather we had met with, and the little likelihood, at
+this time of the year, of its becoming more favourable to our views, were
+Captain Gore's motives for now finally giving up all farther search for the
+islands to the N. of Japan, and for shaping a course W.S.W., for the N.
+part of that island. In the night, the wind shifted to the N.E., and blew a
+fresh gale, with hard rain, and hazy weather, which, by noon of the 25th,
+brought us to the latitude of 40 deg. 18', in the longitude 144 deg. 0'. To-day, we
+saw flights of wild-ducks, a pigeon lighted on our rigging, and many birds,
+like linnets, flew about us with a degree of vigour that seemed to prove,
+they had not been long upon the wing. We also passed patches of long grass,
+and a piece either of sugar-cane or bamboo. These signs, that land was at
+no great distance, induced us to try for soundings; but we found no ground
+with ninety fathoms of line, Toward evening, the wind by degrees shifted
+round to the S., with which we still kept on to the W.S.W.; and at day-
+break of the 26th, we had the pleasure of descrying high land to the
+westward, which proved to be Japan. At eight, it extended from N.W. to S.
+by W., distant three or four leagues. A low flat cape bore N.W. 3/4 W., and
+seemed to make the S. part of the entrance of a bay. Toward the S. extreme,
+a conical-shaped hill bore S. by W. 3/4 W. To the northward of this hill
+there appeared to be a very deep inlet, the N. side of the entrance into
+which is formed by a low point of land, and, as well as we could judge by
+our glasses, has a small island near it to the southward.
+
+We stood on till nine, when we were within two leagues of the land, bearing
+W. 3/4 S., and had soundings of fifty-eight fathoms, with a bottom of very
+fine sand. We now tacked and stood off; but the wind dying away, at noon we
+had got no farther than three leagues from the coast, which extended from
+N.W. by N. 3/4 W. to S. 1/2 E., and was, for the most part, bold and
+cliffy. The low cape to the northward bore N.W. by W., six leagues distant;
+and the N. point of the inlet S. 3/4 W. The latitude, by observation, was
+40 deg. 5', and longitude 142 deg. 28'. The northernmost land in sight, we judged
+to be the northern extremity of Japan.[97] It is lower than any other part;
+and, from the range of the high lands that were seen over it from the mast-
+head, the coast appeared evidently to incline round to the westward. The N.
+point of the inlet we supposed to be Cape Nambu, and the town to be
+situated in a break of the high land, toward which the inlet seemed to
+direct itself[98]. The country is of a moderate height, consists of a
+double range of mountains; it abounds with wood, and has a pleasing variety
+of hills and dales. We saw the smoke of several towns or villages, and many
+houses near the shore, in pleasant and cultivated situations.
+
+During the calm, being willing to make the best use of our time, we put our
+fishing lines overboard, in sixty fathoms water, but without any success.
+As this was the only amusement our circumstances admitted, the
+disappointment was always very sensibly felt, and made us look back with
+regret to the cod-banks of the dreary regions we had left, which had
+supplied us with so many wholesome meals, and, by the diversion they
+afforded, had given a variety to the wearisome succession of gales and
+calms, and the tedious repetition of the same nautical observations. At two
+in the afternoon, the breeze freshened from the southward, and, by four,
+had brought us under close-reefed topsails, and obliged us to stand off to
+the S.E. In consequence of this course, and the haziness of the weather,
+the land soon disappeared. We kept on all night, and till eight the next
+morning, when the wind coming round to the N., and growing moderate, we
+made sail, and steered W.S.W., toward the land; but did not make it till
+three in the afternoon, when it extended from N.W. 1/2 W. to W. The
+northernmost extreme being a continuation of the high land, which was the
+southernmost we had seen the day before; the land to the W. we conceived to
+be the Hofe Tafel Berg (the High Table Hill) of Jansen. Between the two
+extremes, the coast was low and scarcely perceptible, except from the mast-
+head. We stood on toward the coast till eight, when we were about five
+leagues distant; and, having shortened sail for the night, steered to the
+southward, sounding every four hours, but never found ground with one
+hundred and sixty fathoms of line.
+
+On the 28th, at six in the morning, we again saw land, twelve leagues to
+the southward of that seen the preceding day, extending from W.S.W. to W.
+by N. We steered S.W. obliquely with the shore; and, at ten, saw more land
+open to the S.W. To the westward of this land, which is low and flat, are
+two islands as we judged, though some doubts were entertained, whether they
+might not be connected with the adjacent low ground. The hazy weather,
+joined to our distance, prevented us also from determining, whether there
+are any inlets or harbours between the projecting points, which seem here
+to promise good shelter. At noon, the N. extreme bore N.W. by N., and a
+high peaked hill, over a steep headland, W. by N., distant five leagues.
+Our latitude at this time, by observation, was 38 deg. 16', longitude 142 deg. 9'.
+The mean of the variation, from observations taken both in the fore and
+afternoon, was 1 deg. 20' E.
+
+At half-past three in the afternoon, we lost sight of the land; and, from
+its breaking off so suddenly, conjectured, that what we had seen this day
+is an island, or, perhaps, a cluster of islands, lying off the main land of
+Japan; but as the islands, called by Jansen the Schildpads, and by Mr
+D'Anville Matsima, though laid down nearly in the same situation, are not
+equal in extent to the land seen by us, we must leave this point undecided.
+Having kept a S.W. course during the remaining part of the day, we found
+ourselves, at midnight, in seventy fathoms water, over a bottom of fine
+dark-brown sand. We therefore hauled up to the eastward, till morning, when
+we saw the land again, about eleven leagues to the southward of that which
+we had seen the day before; and at eight, we were within six or seven miles
+of the shore, having carried, in regular soundings, from sixty-five to
+twenty fathoms, over coarse sand and gravel. Unluckily there was a haze
+over the land, which hindered our distinguishing small objects on it. The
+coast is straight and unbroken, and runs nearly in a N, and S. direction.
+Toward the sea the ground is low, but rises gradually into hills of a
+moderate height, whose tops are tolerably even, and covered with wood.
+
+At nine o'clock, the wind shifting to the southward, and the sky lowring,
+we tacked and stood off to the E., and soon after, we saw a vessel, close
+in with the land, standing along the shore to the northward, and another in
+the offing, coming down on us before the wind. Objects of any kind,
+belonging to a country so famous, and yet so little known, it will be
+easily conceived, must have excited a general curiosity, and accordingly
+every soul on board was upon deck in an instant, to gaze at them. As the
+vessel to windward approached us, she hauled farther off shore; upon which,
+fearing that we should alarm them by the appearance of a pursuit, we
+brought the ships to, and she passed ahead of us, at the distance of about
+half a mile. It would have been easy for us to have spoken with them; but
+perceiving, by their manoeuvres, that they were much frightened, Captain
+Gore was not willing to augment their terrors; and, thinking that we should
+have many better opportunities of communication with this people, suffered
+them to go off without interruption. Our distance did not permit us to
+remark any particular regarding the men on board, who seemed to be about
+six in number, especially as the haziness of the weather precluded the use
+of our glasses. According to the best conjectures we were able to form, the
+vessel was about forty tons burthen. She had but one mast, on which was
+hoisted a square sail, extended by a yard aloft, the braces of which worked
+forward. Half-way down the sail, came three pieces of black cloth, at equal
+distances from each other. The vessel was higher at each end than in the
+midship; and we imagined, from her appearance and form, that it was
+impossible for her to sail any otherwise than large.
+
+At noon, the wind freshened, and brought with it a good deal of rain; by
+three, it had increased so much, that we were reduced to our courses; at
+the same time, the sea ran as high as any one on board ever remembered to
+have seen it. If the Japanese vessels are, as Kaempfer describes them, open
+in the stern, it would not have been possible for those we saw to have
+survived the fury of this storm; but, as the appearance of the weather, all
+the preceding part of the day, foretold its coming, and one of the sloops
+had, notwithstanding, stood far out to sea, we may safely conclude, that
+they are perfectly capable of bearing a gale of wind. Spanberg indeed
+describes two kinds of Japanese vessels; one answering to the above
+description of Kaempfer, the other, which he calls busses, and in which, he
+says, they make their voyages to the neighbouring islands, exactly
+corresponds with those we saw.[99]
+
+At eight in the evening, the gale shifted to the W., without abating the
+least in violence, and by raising a sudden swell, in a contrary direction
+to that which prevailed before, occasioned the ships to strain and labour
+exceedingly. During the storm, several of the sails were split on board the
+Resolution. Indeed they had been so long bent, and were worn so thin, that
+this accident had of late happened to us almost daily, in both ships;
+especially when, being stiff and heavy with the rain, they became less able
+to bear the shocks of the violent and variable winds we at this time
+experienced. The gale at length growing moderate, and settling to the W.,
+we kept upon a wind to the southward; and, at nine in the morning of the
+30th, we saw the land, at the distance of about fifteen leagues, bearing
+from W. by N. to N.W. 1/4 W. It appeared in detached parts; but whether
+they were small islands, or parts of Japan, our distance did not enable us
+to determine. At noon, it extended from N.W. to W., the nearest land being
+about thirteen leagues distant, beyond which the coast seemed to run in a
+westerly direction. The latitude, by observation, was 36 deg. 41', longitude
+142 deg. 6'. The point to the northward, which was supposed to be near the
+southernmost land seen the day before, we conjectured to be Cape de Kennis,
+and the break to the southward of this point, to be the mouth of the
+river on which the town of Gissima is said to be situated. The next cape is
+probably that called in the Dutch charts Boomtje's Point; and the
+southernmost, off which we were abreast at noon, we suppose to be near Low
+Point,[100] and that we were at too great distance to see the low land, in
+which it probably terminates, to the eastward.
+
+In the afternoon, the wind veering round to the N.E., we stood to the
+southward, at the distance of about eighteen leagues from the shore, trying
+for soundings as we went along, but finding none with one hundred and
+fifteen fathoms of line. At two the next morning, it shifted to W.,
+attended with rain and lightning, and blowing in heavy squalls. During the
+course of the day, we had several small birds of a brown plumage,
+resembling linnets, flying about us, which had been forced off the land by
+the strong westerly gales; but toward the evening, the wind coming to the
+N.W., we shaped our coarse, along with them, to W.S.W., in order to regain
+the coast. In the morning of the 1st of November, the wind again shifted to
+S.E., and bringing with it fair weather, we got forty-two sets of distances
+of the moon from the sun and stars, with four different quadrants, each set
+consisting of six observations; these agreeing pretty nearly with each
+other, fix our situation at noon the same day, with great accuracy, in
+longitude 141 deg. 32'; the latitude, by observation, was 35 deg. 17', We found an
+error of latitude, in our reckonings of the preceding day, of eight miles,
+and in this day's of seventeen; from whence, and from our being much more
+to the eastward than we expected, we concluded, that there had been a
+strong current from the S.W.
+
+At two in the afternoon, we again made the land to the westward, at the
+distance of about twelve leagues; the southernmost land in sight, which we
+supposed to be White Point,[101], bore W.S.W. 1/2 W.; a hummock to the
+northward, which had the appearance of being an island, bore N.N.W. 1/2 W.,
+within which we saw from the mast-head low land, which we took to be Sand-
+down Point.[102] We stood in toward the land, till half-past five, when we
+hauled our wind to the southward. At this time we saw a number of Japanese
+vessels, close in with the land, several seemingly engaged in fishing, and
+others standing along shore. We now discovered to the westward a remarkably
+high mountain, with a round top, rising far inland. There is no high ground
+near it, the coast being of a moderate elevation, and, as far as we could
+judge, from the haziness of the horizon, much broken by small inlets. But
+to the southward of the hummock island before mentioned, there appeared, at
+a great distance, within the country, a ridge of hills, stretching in a
+direction toward the mountain, and probably joining with it. As this is the
+most remarkable hill on the coast, we could have wished to have settled its
+situation exactly; but having only had this single view, were obliged to be
+contented with such accuracy as our circumstances would allow. Its latitude
+therefore we conceive to be 35 deg. 20', its longitude, estimated by its
+distance from the ships, at this time fifteen leagues, 140 deg. 26'.
+
+As the Dutch charts make the coast of Japan extend about ten leagues to the
+S.W. of White Point, at eight we tacked, and stood off to the eastward, in
+order to weather the point. At midnight, we again tacked to the S.W.,
+expecting to fall in with the coast to the southward, but were surprised,
+in the morning at eight, to see the hummock, at the distance only of three
+leagues, bearing W.N.W. We began, at first, to doubt the evidence of our
+senses, and afterward to suspect some deception from a similarity of land;
+but, at noon, we found ourselves, by observation, to be actually in
+latitude 35 deg. 43', at a time when our reckonings gave us 34 deg. 48'. So that,
+during the eight hours in which we supposed we had made a course of nine
+leagues to the S.W., we had in reality been carried eight leagues from the
+position we left, in a direction diametrically opposite; which made, on the
+whole, in that short space of time, a difference in our reckoning of
+seventeen leagues. From this error, we calculated, that the current had set
+to the N.E. by N., at the rate of at least five miles an hour. Our
+longitude, at this time, was 141 deg. 16'.
+
+The weather having now the same threatening appearance as on the 29th of
+October, which was followed by so sudden and severe a gale, and the wind
+continuing at S.S.E., it was thought prudent to leave the shore, and stand
+off to the eastward, to prevent our being entangled with the land. Nor were
+we wrong in our prognostications; for it soon afterward began, and
+continued till next day, to blow a heavy gale, accompanied with hazy and
+rainy weather. In the morning of the 3d, we found ourselves, by our
+reckoning, upward of fifty leagues from the land; which circumstance,
+together with the very extraordinary effect of currents we had before
+experienced, the late season of the year, the unsettled state of the
+weather, and the little likelihood of any change for the better, made
+Captain Gore resolve to leave Japan altogether, and prosecute our voyage to
+China; hoping, that as the track he meant to pursue had never yet been
+explored, he should be able to make amends, by some new discovery, for the
+disappointments we had met with on this coast.
+
+If the reader should be of opinion that we quitted this object too hastily,
+in addition to the facts already stated it ought to be remarked, that
+Kaempfer describes the coast of Japan as the most dangerous in the whole
+world;[103] that it would have been equally dangerous, in case of distress,
+to run into any of their harbours, where we know, from the best
+authorities, that the aversion of the inhabitants to any intercourse with
+strangers, has led them to commit the most atrocious barbarities; that our
+ships were in a leaky condition, that our sails were worn out, and unable
+to withstand, a gale of wind, and that the rigging was so rotten as to
+require constant and perpetual repairs.
+
+As the strong currents, which set along the eastern coast of Japan, may be
+of dangerous consequence to the navigator, who is not aware of their
+extraordinary rapidity, I shall take leave of this island, with a summary
+account of their force and direction, as observed by us from the 1st to the
+8th of November. On the 1st, at which time we were about eighteen leagues
+to the eastward of White Point, the current set N.E. and by N., at the rate
+of three miles an hour; on the 2d, as we approached the shore, we found it
+continuing in the same direction, but increased its rapidity to five miles
+an hour; as we left the shore it again became more moderate, and inclined
+to the eastward; on the 3d, at the distance of sixty leagues, it set to the
+E.N.E., three miles an hour; on the 4th and 5th, it turned to the
+southward, and at one hundred and twenty leagues from the land, its
+direction was S.E., and its rate not more than a mile and a half an hour;
+on the 6th and 7th, it again shifted round to the N.E., its force gradually
+diminishing till the 8th, when we could no longer perceive any at all.
+
+During the 4th and 5th, we continued our course to the S.E., having very
+unsettled weather, attended with much lightning and rain. On both days we
+passed great quantities of pumice-stone, several pieces of which we took
+up, and found to weigh from one ounce to three pounds. We conjectured that
+these stones had been thrown into the sea by eruptions of various dates, as
+many of them were covered with barnacles, and others quite bare. At the
+same time, we saw two wild ducks, and several small land-birds, and had
+many porpoises playing round us.
+
+On the 6th, at day-light, we altered our course to the S.S.W.; but, at
+eight in the evening, we were taken back, and obliged to steer to the S.E.
+On the 7th, at noon, we saw a small land-bird, our latitude, by
+observation, at this time, being 33 deg. 52', and longitude 148 deg. 42'. On the
+9th, we were in latitude 31 deg. 46', longitude 146 deg. 20', when we again saw a
+small land-bird, a tropic bird, porpoises, flying fishes, and had a great
+swell from the E.S.E. We continued our course to the S.W., having the winds
+from the northward, without any remarkable occurrence, till the 12th, when
+we had a most violent gale of wind from the same quarter, which reduced us
+to the fore-sail and mizen stay-sail; and, as the weather was so hazy, that
+we were not able to see a cable's length before us, and many shoals and
+small islands are laid down in our charts, in this part of the ocean, we
+brought-to, with our heads to the S.W. At noon, the latitude by account was
+27 deg. 36', longitude 144 deg. 25'. In the morning of the 13th, the wind shifting
+round to the N.W., brought with it fair weather; but though we were, at
+this time nearly in the situation given to the island of St Juan, we saw no
+appearance of land. We now bore away to the S.W., and set the top-sails,
+the gale still continuing with great violence. At noon, the latitude, by
+observation, was 26 deg. 0', longitude 143 deg. 40', and variation 3 deg. 50' E. In the
+afternoon, we saw flying fish and dolphins, also tropic birds and
+albatrosses. We still continued to pass much pumice-stone; indeed, the
+prodigious quantities of this substance which float in the sea, between
+Japan and the Bashee islands, seem to indicate, that some great volcanic
+convulsion must have happened in this part of the Pacific Ocean; and
+consequently give some degree of probability to the opinion of Mr Muller,
+which I have already had occasion to mention, respecting the separation of
+the continent of Jeso, and the disappearance of Company's Land and Staten
+Island.
+
+At six in the afternoon, we altered our coarse to the W.S.W., Captain Gore
+judging it useless to steer any longer to the S.S.W., as we were near the
+meridian of the Ladrones, or Marianne Islands, and at no great distance
+from the track of the Manilla ships. In the morning of the 14th, the
+weather became fine, and the wind, which was moderate, gradually shifted to
+the N.E., and proved to be the trade-wind. At ten, Mr Trevenen, one of the
+young gentlemen who came along with me into the Discovery, saw land
+appearing like a peaked mountain, and bearing S.W. At noon, the latitude,
+by observation, was 24 deg. 37', longitude 142 deg. 2'. The land, which we now
+discovered to be an island, bore S.W. 1/2 W., distant eight or ten leagues;
+and at two in the afternoon, we saw another to the W.N.W. This second
+island, when seen at a distance, has the appearance of two; the south point
+consisting of a high conical hill, joined by a narrow neck to the northern
+land, which is of a moderate height. As this was evidently of greater
+extent than the island to the south, we altered our course toward it. At
+four, it bore N.W. by W.; but, not having day-light sufficient to examine
+the coast, we stood upon our tacks during the night.
+
+On the 15th, at six in the morning, we bore away for the south point of the
+larger island, at which time we discovered another high island, bearing N.
+3/4 W., the south island, being on the same rhomb line, and the south point
+of the island ahead, W. by N. At nine, we were abreast, and within a mile
+of the middle island, but Captain Gore, finding that a boat could not land
+without some danger from the great surf that broke on the shore, kept on
+his course to the westward. At noon, our latitude, by observation, was 24 deg.
+50', longitude 140 deg. 56' E.
+
+This island is about five miles long, in a N.N.E., and S.S.W. direction.
+The south point is a high barren hill, flattish at the top, and, when seen
+from the W.S.W., presents an evident volcanic crater. The earth, rock, or
+sand, for it was not easy to distinguish of which its surface was composed,
+exhibited various colours, and a considerable part we conjectured to be
+sulphur, both from its appearance to the eye, and the strong sulphurous
+smell which we perceived as we approached the point. Some of the officers
+on board the Resolution, which passed nearer the land, thought they saw
+steams rising from the top of the hill. From these circumstances, Captain
+Gore gave it the name of _Sulphur Island_. A low, narrow neck of land
+connects this hill with the south end of the island, which spreads out into
+a circumference of three or four leagues, and is of a moderate height. The
+part near the isthmus has some bushes on it, and has a green appearance,
+but those to the N.E. are very barren, and full of large detached rocks,
+many of which were exceedingly white. Very dangerous breakers extend two
+miles and a half to the east, and two miles to the west, off the middle
+part of the island, on which the sea broke with great violence.
+
+The north and south islands appeared to us as single mountains of a
+considerable height; the former peaked, and of a conical shape; the latter
+more square and flat at the top. Sulphur Island we place in latitude 24 deg.
+48', longitude 141 deg. 12'. The north island in latitude 25 deg. 14', longitude
+141 deg. 10'. The south island in latitude 24 deg. 22', and longitude 141 deg. 26'. The
+variation observed was 3 deg. 30' E.
+
+Captain Gore now directed his course to the W.S.W., for the Bashee Islands,
+hoping to procure, at them, such a supply of refreshments as would help to
+shorten his stay in Macao. These islands were visited by Dampier, who gives
+a very favourable account, both of the civility of the inhabitants, and of
+the plenty of hogs and vegetables, with, which the country abounds; they
+were afterwards seen by Byron and Wallis, who passed them without landing.
+
+In order to extend our view, in the day-time, the ships spread between two
+and three leagues from each other, and during the night, we went under an
+easy sail; so that it was scarcely possible to pass any land that lay in
+the neighbourhood of our course. In this manner we proceeded, without any
+occurrence worth remarking, with a fresh breeze from the N.E., till the
+22d, when it increased to a strong gale, with violent squalls of wind and
+rain, which brought us under close-reefed top-sails.
+
+At noon of the 23d, the latitude, by account, was 21 deg. 5', and longitude
+123 deg. 20'; at six in the evening, being now only twenty-one leagues from the
+Bashee Islands, according to the situation in Mr Dalrymple's map, and the
+weather squally attended with a thick haze, we hauled our wind to the
+N.N.W., and handed the fore top-sail.
+
+During the whole of the 24th it rained incessantly, and the wind still blew
+a storm; a heavy sea rolled down on us from the north, and in the afternoon
+we had violent flashes of lightning from the same quarter. We continued
+upon a wind to the N.N.W. till nine o'clock, when we tacked, and stood to
+the S.S.E., till four in the morning of the 25th, and then wore. During the
+night there was an eclipse of the moon, but the rain prevented our making
+any observation; unfortunately, at the time of the greatest darkness, a
+seaman, in stowing the main-top-mast stay-sail, fell overboard, but laying
+hold of a rope, which providentially was hanging out of the fore-chains
+into the water, and the ship being quickly brought in the wind, he was got
+on board without any other hurt than a slight bruise on his shoulder. At
+eight, the weather clearing, we bore away but the wind blew still so
+strong, that we carried no other sail than the fore-sail, and the main-top-
+sail close-reefed. About this time we saw a land-bird resembling a thrush,
+and a sugar-cane; at noon, the latitude, by observation, was 21 deg. 35', and
+longitude 121 deg. 35'.
+
+As our situation in longitude was now to the west of the Bashee, according
+to Mr Dalrymple's map, I perceived that Captain Gore was governed, in the
+course he was steering, by the opinions of Commodore Byron and Captain
+Wallis, with whom he sailed when they passed these islands. The former
+placing it near four degrees to the westward, or in longitude 118 deg. 15'. In
+consequence of this opinion, at two, we stood to the southward, with a view
+of getting into the same parallel of latitude with the islands, before we
+ran down our longitude. At six, we were nearly in that situation, and
+consequently ought to have been in sight of land, according to Mr Wallis's
+account, who places the Bashees near three degrees more to the eastward
+than Mr Byron. The gale, at this time, had not in the least abated; and
+Captain Gore, still conceiving that the islands must undoubtedly lie to the
+westward, brought the ships to, with their heads to the N.W., under the
+fore-sail and balanced mizen.
+
+At six in the morning of the 26th, the wind having considerably abated, we
+bore away west; set the top-sails, and let out the reefs. At noon, the
+latitude, by observation, was 21 deg. 12', and longitude 120 deg. 25'. We saw, this
+day, a flock of ducks, and many tropic-birds, also dolphins and porpoises,
+and still continued to pass several pumice-stones. We spent the night upon
+our tacks, and, at six in the morning of the 27th, again bore away west in
+search of the Bashees.
+
+I now began to be a little apprehensive, lest, in searching for those
+islands, we should get so much to the southward as to be obliged to pass to
+leeward of the Pratas. In this case, it might have been exceedingly
+difficult for such bad-sailing ships as ours to fetch Macao, particularly
+should the wind continue to blow, as it now did, from the N.N.E. and N. As
+I had some doubts whether Mr Dalrymple's charts were on board the
+Resolution, I made sail and hailed her; and having acquainted Captain Gore
+with the position of these shoals, and my apprehensions of being driven to
+the southward, he informed me that he should continue on his course for the
+day, as he was still in hopes of finding Admiral Byron's longitude right;
+and therefore ordered me to spread a few miles to the south.
+
+At noon, the weather became hazy; the latitude, by reckoning, was 21 deg. 2',
+and longitude 118 deg. 30'; and at six, having got to the westward of the
+Bashees, by Mr Byron's account, Captain Gore hauled his wind to the N.W.,
+under an easy sail, the wind blowing very strong, and there being every
+appearance of a dirty boisterous night. At four in the morning of the 28th,
+we saw the Resolution, then half a mile ahead of us, wear, and immediately
+perceived breakers close under our lee. At day-light, we saw the island of
+Prata; and at half past six we wore again, and stood toward the shoal, and
+finding we could not weather it, bore away, and ran to leeward. As we
+passed the south side, within a mile of the reef, we observed two
+remarkable patches on the edge of the breakers, that looked like wrecks. At
+noon, the latitude, found by double altitudes, was 20 deg. 39', longitude 116 deg.
+45'. The island bore N. 3/4 E., distant three or four leagues. On the
+south-west side of the reef, and near the south end of the island, we
+thought we saw, from the mast-head, openings in the reef, which promised
+safe anchorage.
+
+The Prata shoal is of a considerable extent, being six leagues from north
+to south, and stretching three or four leagues to the eastward of the
+island; its limit to the westward we were not in a situation to determine.
+The northeast extremity we place in latitude 20 deg. 58', and longitude 117 deg.;
+and the south-west in latitude 20 deg. 45', and longitude 116 deg. 44'.
+
+For the remaining part of the day we carried a press of sail, and kept the
+wind, which was N.E. by N., in order to secure our passage to Macao. It was
+fortunate, that toward evening the wind favoured us, by changing two points
+more to the east; for had the wind and weather continued the same as during
+the preceding week, I doubt whether we could have fetched that port, in
+which case, we must have borne away for Batavia; a place we all dreaded
+exceedingly, from the sad havoc the unhealthiness of the climate had made
+in the crews of the former ships that had been out on discovery, and had
+touched there.
+
+In the forenoon of the 29th, we passed several Chinese fishing-boats, who
+eyed us with great indifference; They fish with a large dredge-net, shaped
+like a hollow cone, having a flat iron rim fixed to the lower part of its
+mouth. The net is made fast with cords to the head and stern of the boat,
+which being left to drive with the wind, draws the net after it with the
+iron part dragging along the bottom. We were sorry to find the sea covered
+with the wrecks of boats that had been lost, as we conjectured, in the late
+boisterous weather. At-noon, we were in latitude, by observation, 22 deg. 1',
+having run one hundred and ten miles upon a north-west course since the
+preceding noon. Being now nearly in the latitude of the Lema Islands, we
+bore away W. by N., and after running twenty-two miles, saw one of them
+nine or ten leagues to the westward. At six, the extremes of the islands in
+sight bore N.N.W. 1/2 W., and W.N.W. 1/2 W.; distant from the nearest four
+or five leagues; the depth of water twenty-two fathoms, over a soft muddy
+bottom. We now shortened sail, and kept upon our tacks for the night. By Mr
+Bayly's time-keeper, the Grand Lema bore from the Prata Island, N. 60 deg. W.,
+one hundred and fifty-three miles; and by our run, N. 57 deg. W., one hundred
+and forty-six miles.
+
+In the morning of the 30th, we ran along the Lema Isles, which, like all
+the other islands on this coast, are without wood, and, as far as we could
+observe, without cultivation. At seven o'clock, we had precisely the same
+view of these islands, as is represented in a plate of Lord Anson's voyage.
+At nine o'clock, a Chinese boat, which had been before with the Resolution,
+came alongside, and wanted to put on board us a pilot, which, however, we
+declined, as it was our business to follow our consort. We soon after
+passed the rock marked R in Lord Anson's plate; but, instead of hauling up
+to the northward of the Grand Ladrone Island, as was done in the Centurion,
+we proceeded to leeward.
+
+It is hardly necessary to caution the mariner not to take this course, as
+the danger is sufficiently obvious; for should the wind blow strong, and
+the current set with it, it will be extremely difficult to fetch Macao.
+Indeed, we might, with great safety, by the direction of Mr Dalrymple's
+map, have gone either entirely to the north of the Lema Isles, or between
+them, and made the wind fair for Macao. Our fears of missing this port, and
+being forced to Batavia, added to the strong and eager desires of hearing
+news from Europe, made us rejoice to see the Resolution soon after fire a
+gun, and hoist her colours as a signal for a pilot. On repeating the
+signal, we saw an excellent race between four Chinese boats; and Captain
+Gore, having engaged with the man who arrived first, to carry the ship to
+the Typa, for thirty dollars, sent me word, that, as we could easily
+follow, that expence might be saved to us. Soon after, a second pilot
+getting on board the Resolution, insisted on conducting the ship, and,
+without farther ceremony, laid hold of the wheel, and began to order the
+sails to be trimmed. This occasioned a violent dispute, which at last was
+compromised, by their agreeing to go shares in the money. At noon, the
+altitude, by observation, was 21 deg. 57' N., and longitude 114 deg. 2' E.; the
+Grand Ladrone Island extending from N.W. 1/2 N., to N.1/2 W., distant four
+miles. The land of which the bearings are here given, we conceived to be
+one island; but afterward found the western part to be the island marked Z
+in Mr Dalrymple's chart of part of the coast of China, &c. which, at that
+time, we unfortunately had not on board.
+
+In obedience to the instructions given to Captain Cook by the Board of
+Admiralty, it now became necessary to demand of the officers and men their
+journals, and what other papers they might have in their possession,
+relating to the history of our voyage. The execution of these orders seemed
+to require some delicacy, as well as firmness. I could not be ignorant,
+that the greatest part of our officers, and several of the seamen, had
+amused themselves with writing accounts of our proceedings for their own
+private satisfaction, or that of their friends, which they might be
+unwilling, in their present form, to have submitted to the inspection of
+strangers. On the other hand, I could not, consistently with the
+instructions we had received, leave in their custody papers, which, either
+from carelessness or design, might fall into the hands of printers, and
+give rise to spurious and imperfect accounts of the voyage, to the
+discredit of our labours, and perhaps to the prejudice of officers, who,
+though innocent, might be suspected of having been the authors of such
+publications. As soon, therefore, as I had assembled the ship's company on
+deck, I acquainted them with the orders we had received, and the reasons
+which, I thought, ought to induce them to yield a ready obedience. At the
+same time, I told them, that any papers which they were desirous not to
+have sent to the Admiralty, should be sealed up in their presence, and kept
+in my own custody, till the intentions of the Board, with regard to the
+publication of the history of the voyage, were fulfilled; after which, they
+should faithfully be restored back to them.
+
+It is with the greatest satisfaction I can relate, that my proposals met
+with the approbation, and the cheerful compliance both of the officers and
+men; and I am persuaded, that every scrap of paper, containing any
+transactions relating to the voyage, were given up. Indeed, it is doing
+bare justice to the seamen of this ship to declare, that they were the most
+obedient and the best-disposed men I ever knew, though almost all of them
+were very young, and had never before served in a ship of war.
+
+
+[92] As we have already exceeded the proportion of notes in the preceding
+    pages, it would be improper, even if the importance of the remaining
+    matter were more considerable than it is, to hazard farther
+    commentary. The reader will find, as, indeed, he will naturally
+    expect, that the condition of the vessels, &c. did not admit of much
+    more research that could benefit navigation or geography. This,
+    therefore, renders it less necessary to occupy attention in the
+    results. Some additions have been made to our knowledge of Jesso, the
+    neighbouring seas and islands, since the date of this voyage, and in
+    no small degree, especially by the expedition under Krusenstern, from
+    whose remarks we have already enriched our work. The additional
+    observations will properly fall to be considered hereafter. It may be
+    necessary, however, to state at present, that the able navigator, just
+    now named, had it in his power, from more favourable circumstances, to
+    correct the positions of some of the islands seen by Captain Gore, and
+    assigned to them in the following section, as Sulphur Island, North
+    Island, &c. But the corrections, though important for nautical
+    purposes, are not of so much consequence in a general point of view,
+    as to justify any particular remarks on the text. It is enough,
+    perhaps, to notice the circumstance here, and to take advantage of the
+    improvements of Krusenstern or others on any map or chart it may be
+    expedient to affix to a subsequent portion of this work. The result of
+    K.'s labours, it may be remarked, will require a modification to no
+    mean amount of all the maps and charts of the regions we are now
+    contemplating.--E.
+
+[93] From Muller's account of the course steered by Captain Spanberg, in
+    his route from Kamtschatka to Japan, it appears, that he must also
+    undoubtedly have seen De Gama's Land, if it really has the extent
+    given it in Mr D'Anville's maps. Walton, who commanded a vessel in the
+    same expedition, seems also to have looked in vain for this land on
+    his return from Japan; and three years afterward, on account of some
+    doubts that had arisen respecting Spanberg's course, Beering went
+    directly in search of it, as low as the latitude of 46 deg..--See _Voyages
+    et Decouvertes_, &c. p. 210, et seq.
+
+[94] This land was seen by the Dutchmen who sailed in the Castricom and
+    Breskes, and imagined by them to be part of the continent of America.
+    There now remains scarce any doubt of its being the islands of Ooroop
+    and Nadeegsda. See the journals of the Castricom and Breskes,
+    published by Wetzer.
+
+[95] This land was also discovered by the Castricom; and, from its
+    situation, as described in the journal of that vessel, it appears to
+    be the islands of the Three Sisters.
+
+[96] The country of Jeso, which has so long been a stumbling-block to our
+    modern geographers, was first brought to the knowledge of Europeans by
+    the Dutch vessels mentioned in the preceding notes. The name appears,
+    from the earliest accounts, to have been well known, both to the
+    Japanese and the Kamtschadales; and used by them, indiscriminately,
+    for all the islands lying between Kamtschatka and Japan. It has since
+    been applied to a large imaginary island, or continent, supposed to
+    have been discovered by the Castricom and Breskes; and it may not,
+    therefore, be improper to consider the grounds of this mistake, as far
+    as can be collected from the journals of that expedition. The object
+    of the voyage, in which those ships were engaged, was to explore the
+    eastern shore of Tartary; but, being separated by a storm off the S.E.
+    point of Japan, they sailed in different tracks along the E. side of
+    the island; and, having passed its northern extremity, proceeded
+    singly on their intended expedition.
+
+    The Castricom, commanded by De Vries, steering northward, fell in with
+    land on the third day, in latitude 42 deg.. He sailed along the S.E. coast
+    about sixty leagues in a _constant fog_; and, having anchored in
+    various places, held a friendly intercourse with the inhabitants. Thus
+    far the journal. Now, as the islands of Matimai, Kunashir, and Zellany
+    appear, from Captain Spanberg's discoveries, to lie exactly in this
+    situation, there can be no doubt of their being the same land; and the
+    circumstance of the fog sufficiently accounts for the error of De
+    Vries, imagining them to be one continent; without having recourse to
+    the supposition of an earthquake, by which Mr Muller, from his desire
+    to reconcile the opinion generally received, with the later Russian
+    discoveries, conceives the several parts to have been separated. The
+    journal then proceeds to give an account of the discovery of Staten
+    Island and Company's Land, of which I have already given my opinion,
+    and shall have occasion to speak hereafter. Having passed through the
+    Straits of De Vries, says the journal, they entered a vast, wild, and
+    tempestuous sea, in which they steered, through mists and darkness, to
+    the 48 deg. N. latitude; after which they were driven by contrary winds to
+    the southward, and again fell in with land to the westward, in
+    latitude 45 deg., which they unaccountably still imagined to be part of
+    the continent of Jeso; whereas, whoever examines Jansen's map of their
+    discoveries, (which appears to be exceedingly accurate, as far as his
+    information went,) will, I believe, have no doubt, that they were, at
+    this time, on the coast of Tartary. Having traced this land four
+    degrees to the northward, they returned to the southward through the
+    Straits they had passed before.
+
+    It is not necessary to trouble the reader with the journal of the
+    Breskes, as it contains no new matter, and has been already
+    republished, and very satisfactorily animadverted upon by Mr Muller.--
+    _Voyages from Asia to America_, &c. English Translation, p. 78.
+
+[97] The only authentic survey of the eastern coast of Japan, with which I
+    am acquainted, is that published by Jansen in his Atlas, and compiled
+    with great accuracy from the charts and journals of the Castricom and
+    Breskes. I have therefore adopted, wherever the identity of the
+    situations could be nearly ascertained, the names given in that map to
+    the corresponding points and head-lands seen by us along the coast.
+
+    Jansen places the northern extremity of Japan in latitude 40 deg. 15'. The
+    point seen by us was in latitude 40 deg. 27'.
+
+[98] This town is called by Jansen, Nabo.
+
+[99] Vide Muller, Fr. ed. page 215.
+
+[100] _Lage Hoeck_, or Low Point, is placed by Jansen in latitude
+    36 deg. 40'.
+
+[101] _Witte Hoeck_, placed by Jansen in latitude 35 deg. 24'.
+
+[102] _Sanduynege Hoeck_, in latitude 35 deg. 55'. Jansen.
+
+[103] See Kaempfer's Hist. of Japan, vol. i. p 92, 93, 94, and 102.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION IX.
+
+
+Working up to Macao.--A Chinese Comprador.--Sent on Shore to visit the
+Portugueze Governor.--Effects of the Intelligence we received from
+Europe.--Anchor in the Typa.--Passage up to Canton.--Bocca Tygris.--
+Wampu.--Description of a Sampane.--Reception at the English Factory.--
+Instance of the suspicious Character of the Chinese.--Of their Mode of
+trading.--Of the City of Canton.--Its Size.--Population.--Number of
+Sampanes.--Military Force.--Of the Streets and Houses.--Visit to a
+Chinese.--Return to Macao.--Great Demand for the Sea-Otter Skins.--Plan of
+a Voyage for opening a Fur-Trade on the Western Coast of America, and
+prosecuting further Discoveries in the Neighbourhood of Japan.--Departure
+from Macao.--Price of Provisions in China.
+
+
+We kept working to windward till six in the evening, when we came to
+anchor, by the direction of the Chinese pilot on board the Resolution, who
+imagined the tide was setting against us. In this, however, he was much
+deceived; as we found, upon making the experiment, that it set to the
+northward till ten o'clock. The next morning he fell into a similar
+mistake; for, at five, on the appearance of slack water, he gave orders to
+get under weigh; but the ignorance he had discovered, having put us on our
+guard, we chose to be convinced, by our own observations, before we
+weighed; and, on trying the tide, we found a strong under-tow, which
+obliged us to keep fast till eleven o'clock. From these circumstances, it
+appears that the tide had run down twelve hours.
+
+During the afternoon, we kept standing on our tacks, between the island of
+Potoe, and the Grand Ladrone, having passed to the eastward of the former.
+At nine o'clock, the tide beginning to ebb, we again came to anchor in six
+fathoms water; the town of Macao bearing N.W., three leagues distant; and
+the island of Potoe, S. 1/2 W., two leagues distant. This island lies two
+leagues to the N.N.W.. of the island marked Z in Mr Dalrymple's chart,
+which we, at first, took to be part of the Grand Ladrone. It is small and
+rocky; and, off the west end, there is said to be foul ground, though we
+passed near it without perceiving any.
+
+In the forenoon of the 2d, one of the Chinese contractors, who are called
+_compradors_, went on board the Resolution, and sold to Captain Gore two
+hundred pounds weight of beef, together with a considerable quantity of
+greens, oranges, and eggs. A proportionable share of these articles was
+sent to the Discovery; and an agreement made with the man to furnish us
+with a daily supply, for which, however, he insisted on being paid before-
+hand.
+
+Our pilot, pretending he could carry the ships no farther, Captain Gore was
+obliged to discharge him, and we were left to our own guidance.
+
+At two in the afternoon, the tide flowing, we weighed, and worked to
+windward; and at seven, anchored in three and a half fathoms of water,
+Macao bearing W., three miles-distant. This situation was, indeed, very
+ineligible, being exposed to the N.E., and having shoal water, not more
+than two fathoms and a half deep, to leeward; but as no nautical
+description is given, in Lord Anson's voyage, of the harbour in which the
+Centurion anchored, and Mr Dalrymple's general map, which was the only one
+on board, was on too small a scale to serve for our direction, the ships
+were obliged to remain there all night.
+
+In the evening, Captain Gore sent me on shore to visit the Portugueze
+governor, and to request his assistance in procuring refreshments for our
+crews, which he thought might be done on more reasonable terms than the
+_comprador_ would undertake to furnish them. At the same time, I took a
+list of the naval stores, of which both vessels were greatly in want, with
+an intention of proceeding immediately to Canton, and applying to the
+servants of the East India Company, who were, at that time, resident there.
+On my arrival at the citadel, the fort-major informed me, that the governor
+was sick, and not able to see company; but that we might be assured of
+receiving every assistance in their power. This, however, I understood
+would be very inconsiderable, as they were entirely dependent on the
+Chinese, even for their daily subsistence. Indeed, the answer returned to
+the first request I made, gave me a sufficient proof of the fallen state of
+the Portugueze power; for, on my acquainting the major with my desire of
+proceeding immediately to Canton, he told me, that they could not venture
+to furnish me with a boat, till leave was obtained from the _Hoppo_, or
+officer of the customs; and that the application for this purpose must be
+made to the Chinese government at Canton.
+
+The mortification I felt at meeting with this unexpected delay, could only
+be equalled by the extreme impatience with which we had so long waited for
+an opportunity of receiving intelligence from Europe. It often happens,
+that in the eager pursuit of an object, we overlook the easiest and most
+obvious means of attaining it. This was actually my case at present; for I
+was returning under great dejection to the ship, when the Portugueze
+officer, who attended me, asked me, if I did not mean to visit the English
+gentlemen at Macao. I need not add with what transport I received the
+information this question conveyed to me; nor the anxious hopes and fears,
+the conflict between curiosity and apprehension, which passed in my mind,
+as we walked toward the house of one of our countrymen.
+
+In this state of agitation, it was not surprising, that our reception,
+though no way deficient in civility or kindness, should appear cold and
+formal. In our enquiries, as far as they related to objects of private
+concern, we met, as was indeed, to be expected, with little or no
+satisfaction; but the events of a public nature, which had happened since
+our departure, and now, for the first time, burst all at once upon us,
+overwhelmed every other feeling, and left us, for some time, almost without
+the power of reflection. For several days we continued questioning each
+other about the truth of what we had heard, as if desirous of seeking, in
+doubt and suspense, for that relief and consolation, which the reality of
+our calamities appeared totally to exclude. These sensations were succeeded
+by the most poignant regret at finding ourselves cut off, at such a
+distance, from the scene where, we imagined, the fate of fleets and armies
+was every moment deciding.[104]
+
+The intelligence we had just received of the state of affairs in Europe,
+made us the more exceedingly anxious to hasten our departure as much as
+possible; and I, therefore, renewed my attempt to procure a passage to
+Canton, but without effect. The difficulty arising from the established
+policy of the country, I was now told, would probably be much increased by
+an incident that had happened a few weeks before our arrival. Captain
+Panton, in the Seahorse, a ship of war of twenty-four guns, had been sent
+from Madras, to urge the payment of a debt owing by the Chinese merchants
+of Canton to private British subjects in the East Indies and Europe, which,
+including the principal and compound interest, amounted, I understood, to
+near a million sterling. For this purpose, he had orders to insist on an
+audience with the Viceroy of Canton, which, after some delay, and not
+without recourse being had to threats, was, at length, obtained.
+
+The answer he received, on the subject of his mission, was fair and
+satisfactory; but, immediately after his departure, an edict was stuck up
+on the houses of the Europeans, and in the public places of the city,
+forbidding all foreigners, on any pretence, to lend money to the subjects
+of the emperor.
+
+This measure had occasioned very serious alarms at Canton. The Chinese
+merchants, who had incurred the debt contrary to the commercial laws of
+their own country, and denied, in part, the justice of the demand, were
+afraid that intelligence of this would be carried to Pekin; and that the
+emperor, who had the character of a just and rigid prince, might punish
+them with the loss of their fortunes, if not of their lives. On the other
+hand, the select committee, to whom the cause of the claimants was strongly
+recommended by the presidency of Madras, were extremely apprehensive, lest
+they should embroil themselves with the Chinese government at Canton; and,
+by that means, bring, perhaps, irreparable mischief on the Company's
+affairs in China. For I was further informed, that the _Mandarins_ were
+always ready to take occasion, even on the slightest grounds, to put a stop
+to their trading; and that it was often with great difficulty, and never
+without certain expence, that they could get such restraints taken off.
+These impositions were daily increasing; and, indeed, found it a prevailing
+opinion, in all the European factories, that they should soon be reduced
+either to quit the commerce of that country, or to bear the same
+indignities to which the Dutch are subjected in Japan.
+
+The arrival of the Resolution and Discovery, at such a time, could not fail
+of occasioning fresh alarms; and, therefore, finding there was no
+probability of my proceeding to Canton, I dispatched a letter to the
+English supercargoes, to acquaint them with the cause of our putting into
+the Typa, to request their assistance in procuring me a passport, and in
+forwarding the stores we wanted, of which I sent them a list, as
+expeditiously as possible.
+
+The next morning I was accompanied on board by our countryman, who pointing
+out to us the situation of the Typa, we weighed at half past six, and stood
+toward it; but the wind failing, we came to, at eight, in three and a half
+fathoms water; Macao bearing W.N.W., three miles distant; the Grand Ladrone
+S.E. by S. The Resolution here saluted the Portugueze fort with eleven
+guns, which were returned by the same number. Early on the 4th, we again
+weighed, and stood into the Typa, and moored with the stream-anchor and
+cable to the westward.
+
+The _Comprador_, whom we at first engaged with, having disappeared with a
+small sum of money, which had been given him to purchase provisions, we
+contracted with another, who continued to supply both ships, during our
+whole stay. This was done secretly, and in the night-time, under pretence,
+that it was contrary to the regulations of the port; but we suspected all
+this caution to have been used with a view either of enhancing the price of
+the articles he furnished, or of securing to himself the profits of his
+employment, without being obliged to share them with the _Mandarins_.
+
+On the 9th, Captain Gore received an answer from the committee of the
+English supercargoes at Canton, in which they assured him, that their best
+endeavours should be used to procure the supplies we stood in need of, as
+expeditiously as possible; and that a passport should be sent for one of
+his officers, hoping at the same time, that we were sufficiently acquainted
+with the character of the Chinese government, to attribute any delays, that
+might unavoidably happen, to their true cause.
+
+The day following, an English merchant, from one of our settlements in the
+East Indies, applied to Captain Gore for the assistance of a few hands to
+navigate a vessel he had purchased at Macao, up to Canton. Captain Gore
+judging this a good opportunity for me to proceed to that place, gave
+orders that I should take along with me my second lieutenant, the
+lieutenant of marines, and ten seamen. Though this was not precisely the
+mode in which I could have wished to visit Canton, yet as it was very
+uncertain when the passport might arrive, and my presence might contribute
+materially to the expediting of our supplies, I did not hesitate to put
+myself on board, having left orders with Mr Williamson, to get the
+Discovery ready for sea as soon as possible, and to make such additions and
+alterations in her upper works, as might contribute to make her more
+defensible. That the series of our astronomical observations might suffer
+no interruption by my absence, I entrusted the care of continuing them to
+Mr Trevenen, in whose abilities and diligence I could repose an entire
+confidence.
+
+We left the harbour of Macao on the 11th of December, and sailing round the
+south-eastern extremity of the island, we steered to the northward,
+leaving, as we passed along, Lantao, Lintin, and several smaller islands,
+to the right. All these islands, as well as that of Macao, which lie to the
+left, are entirely without wood; the land is high and barren, and
+uninhabited, except occasionally by fishermen. As we approached the Bocca
+Tygris, which is thirteen leagues from Macao, the Chinese coast appears to
+the eastward in steep white cliffs; the two forts, commanding the mouth of
+the river, are exactly in the same state as when Lord Anson was there; that
+on the left is a fine old castle, surrounded by a grove of trees, and has
+an agreeable romantic appearance.
+
+We were here visited by an officer of the customs; on which occasion the
+owner of the vessel, being apprehensive that, if we were discovered on
+board, it would occasion some alarm, and might be attended with
+disagreeable consequences, begged us to retire into the cabin below.
+
+The breadth of the river above these forts is variable, the banks being low
+and flat, and subject to be overflowed by the tide to a great extent. The
+ground on each side is level and laid out in rice-fields; but as we
+advanced, it rose gradually into hills of considerable declivity, the sides
+of which are cut into terraces, and planted with sweet potatoes, sugar-
+canes, yams, plantains, and the cotton-tree. We saw many lofty _pagodas_,
+scattered over the country, and several towns at a distance, some of which
+appeared to be of a considerable size.
+
+We did not arrive at Wampu, which is only nine leagues from the Bocca
+Tygris, till the 18th, our progress having been retarded by contrary winds,
+and the lightness of the vessel. Wampu is a small Chinese town, off which
+the ships of the different nations, who trade here, lie, in order to take
+in their lading. The river, higher up, is said by M. Sonnerat not to be
+deep enough to admit heavy-laden vessels, even if the policy of the Chinese
+had suffered the Europeans to navigate them up to Canton; but this
+circumstance I cannot take upon me to decide on, as no stranger, I believe,
+has been permitted to inform himself with certainty of the truth. The small
+islands, that lie opposite to the town are allotted to the several
+factories, who have built warehouses for the reception of the merchandise
+that is brought down from Canton.
+
+From Wampu, I immediately proceeded in a _sampane_, or Chinese boat, to
+Canton, which is about two leagues and a half higher up the river. These
+boats are the neatest and most convenient for passengers I ever saw. They
+are of various sizes, almost flat at the bottom, very broad upon the beam,
+and narrow at the head and stern, which are raised and ornamented; the
+middle, where we sat, was arched over with a roof of bamboo, which may be
+raised or lowered at pleasure; in the sides were small windows with
+shutters, and the apartment was furnished with handsome mats, chairs, and
+tables. In the stern was placed a small waxen idol, in a case of gilt
+leather, before which stood a pot, containing lighted tapers made of dry
+chips, or matches, and gum. The hire of this boat was a Spanish dollar.
+
+I reached Canton a little after it was dark, and landed at the English
+factory, where, though my arrival was very unexpected, I was received with
+every mark of attention and civility. The select committee, at this time,
+consisted of Mr Fitzhugh, the president, Mr Bevan and Mr Rapier. They
+immediately gave me an account of such stores as the India ships were able
+to afford us; and though I have not the smallest doubt, that the commanders
+were desirous of assisting us with every thing they could spare,
+consistently with a regard to their own safety, and the interest of their
+employers, yet it was a great disappointment to me to find in their list
+scarcely any articles of cordage or canvass, of both which we stood
+principally in need. It was, however, some consolation to understand, that
+the stores were in readiness for shipping, and that the provisions we
+required might be had at a day's notice. Wishing, therefore, to make my
+stay here as short as possible, I requested the gentlemen to procure junks
+or boats for me the next day, with an intention of leaving Canton the
+following one; but I was soon informed, that a business of that kind was
+not to be transacted so rapidly in this country; that leave must be first
+procured from the viceroy; that the _Hoppo_, or principal officer of the
+customs, must be applied to for _chops_, or permits; and that these favours
+were not granted without mature deliberation: in short, that patience was
+an indispensable virtue in China; and that they hoped to have the pleasure
+of making the factory agreeable to me, for a few days longer than I seemed
+willing to favour them with my company.
+
+Though I was not much disposed to relish this compliment, yet I could not
+help being diverted with an incident that occurred very opportunely to
+convince me of the truth of their representations, and of the suspicious
+character of the Chinese. The reader will recollect, that it was now about
+fifteen days since Captain Gore had written to the factory, to desire their
+assistance in procuring leave for one of his officers to pass to Canton. In
+consequence of this application, they had engaged one of the principal
+Chinese merchants of the place, to interest himself in our favour, and to
+solicit the business with the viceroy. This person came to visit the
+president, whilst we were talking on the subject, and with great
+satisfaction and complacency in his countenance acquainted him, that he had
+at last succeeded in his applications, and that a passport for one of the
+officers of the _Ladrone_ ship (or pirate) would be ready in a few days.
+The president immediately told him not to give himself any farther trouble,
+as the officer, pointing to me, was already arrived. It is impossible to
+describe the terror which seized the old man on hearing this intelligence.
+His head sunk upon his breast, and the sofa on which he was sitting shook,
+from the violence of his agitation. Whether the _Ladrone_ ship was the
+object of his apprehensions, or his own government, I could not discover;
+but after continuing in this deplorable state a few minutes, Mr Bevan bade
+him not despair, and recounted to him the manner in which I had passed from
+Macao, the reasons of my journey to Canton, and my wishes to leave it as
+soon as possible. This last circumstance seemed particularly agreeable to
+him, and gave me hopes, that I should find him equally disposed to hasten
+my departure; and yet, as soon as he had recovered the courage to speak, he
+began to recount the unavoidable delays that would occur in my business,
+the difficulty of gaining admittance to the viceroy, the jealousies and
+suspicions of the _Mandarins_, respecting our real designs, which had
+risen, he said, to an extraordinary height, from the strange account we had
+given of ourselves.
+
+After waiting several days, with great impatience, for the event of our
+application, without understanding that the matter was at all advanced
+toward a conclusion, I applied to the commander of an English country ship,
+who was to sail on the 25th, and who offered to take the men and stores on
+board, and to lie-to, if the weather should permit, off Macao, till we
+could send boats to take them out of his ship. At the same time he apprised
+me of the danger there might be of his being driven with them out to sea.
+Whilst I was doubting what measures to pursue, the commander of another
+country ship brought me a letter from Captain Gore, in which he acquainted
+me, that he had engaged him to bring us down from Canton, and to deliver
+the stores we had procured, at his own risk, in the Typa. All our
+difficulties being thus removed, I had leisure to attend to the purchase of
+our provisions and stores, which was completed on the 26th; and the day
+following, the whole stock was sent on board.
+
+As Canton was likely to be the most advantageous market for furs, I was
+desired by Captain Gore to carry with me about twenty sea-otters' skins,
+chiefly the property of our deceased commanders, and to dispose of them at
+the best price I could procure; a commission which gave me an opportunity
+of becoming a little acquainted with the genius of the Chinese for trade.
+Having acquainted some of the English supercargoes with these
+circumstances, I desired them to recommend me to some Chinese merchant of
+credit and reputation, who would at once offer me a fair and reasonable
+price. I was accordingly directed to a member of the _Hong_; a society of
+the principal merchants of the place; who being fully informed of the
+nature of the business, appeared sensible of the delicacy of my situation;
+assured me I might depend on his integrity; and that, in a case of this
+sort, he should consider himself merely as an agent, without looking for
+any profit to himself. Having laid my goods before him, he examined them
+with great care, over and over again, and at last told me, that he could
+not venture to offer more than three hundred dollars for them. As I knew,
+from the price our skins had sold for in Kamtschatka, that he had not
+offered me one-half their value, I found myself under the necessity of
+driving a bargain. In my turn, I therefore demanded one thousand; my
+Chinese then advanced to five hundred; then offered me a private present of
+tea and porcelain, amounting to one hundred more; then the same sum in
+money; and, lastly, rose to seven hundred dollars, on which I fell to nine
+hundred. Here, each side declaring he would not recede, we parted; but the
+Chinese soon returned with a list of India goods, which he now proposed I
+should take in exchange, and which, I was afterwards told, would have
+amounted in value, if honestly delivered, to double the sum he had before
+offered. Finding I did not choose to deal in this mode, he proposed as his
+ultimatum, that we should divide the difference, which, being tired of the
+contest, I consented to, and received the eight hundred dollars.
+
+The ill health, which at this time I laboured under, left me little reason
+to lament the very narrow limits within which the policy of the Chinese
+obliges every European at Canton to confine his curiosity. I should
+otherwise have fell exceedingly tantalized with living under the walls of
+so great a city, full of objects of novelty, without being able to enter
+it. The accounts given on this place, by Peres le Comte and Du Halde, are
+in every one's hand. These authors have lately been accused of great
+exaggeration by M. Sonnerat; for which reason, the following observations,
+collected from the information with which I have been obligingly furnished
+by several English gentlemen, who were a long time resident at Canton, may
+not be unacceptable to the public.
+
+Canton, including the old and new town, and the suburbs, is about ten miles
+in circuit. With respect to its population, if one may judge of the whole,
+from what is seen in the suburbs, I should conceive it to fall considerably
+short of an European town of the same magnitude. Le Comte estimated the
+number of inhabitants at one million five hundred thousand; Du Halde at one
+million; and M. Sonnerat says he has ascertained them to be no more than
+seventy-five thousand;[105] but as this gentleman has not favoured us with
+the grounds on which his calculation was founded, and, besides, appears as
+desirous of depreciating every thing that relates to the Chinese, as the
+Jesuits may be of magnifying, his opinion certainly admits of some doubt.
+The following circumstances may perhaps lead the reader to form a judgment
+with tolerable accuracy on this subject.
+
+A Chinese house, undoubtedly, occupies more space than is usually taken up
+by houses in Europe; but the proportion, suggested by M. Sonnerat, of four
+or five to one, certainly goes much beyond the truth. To this should be
+added, that a great many houses, in the suburbs of Canton, are occupied for
+commercial purposes only, by merchants and rich tradesmen, whose families
+live entirely within the city. On the other hand, a Chinese family appears
+to consist, on an average, of more persons than an European. A _Mandarin_,
+according to his rank and substance, has from five to twenty wives. A
+merchant, from three to five. One of this class at Canton, had, indeed,
+twenty-five wives, and thirty-six children; but this was mentioned to me as
+a very extraordinary instance. An opulent tradesman has usually two; and
+the lower class of people very rarely more than one. Their servants are at
+least double in number to those employed by persons of the same condition
+in Europe. If, then, we suppose a Chinese family one-third larger, and an
+European house two-thirds less than each other, a Chinese city will contain
+only half the number of inhabitants contained in an European town of the
+same size. According to these _data_, the city and suburbs of Canton may
+probably contain about one hundred and fifty thousand.
+
+With respect to the number of inhabited _sampanes_, I found different
+opinions were entertained; but none placing them lower than forty thousand.
+They are moored in rows close to each other, with a narrow passage, at
+intervals, for the boats to pass up and down the river. As the Tygris, at
+Canton, is somewhat wider than the Thames at London; and the whole river is
+covered in this manner for the extent of at least a mile, this account of
+their number does not appear to me in the least exaggerated; and if it be
+allowed, the number of inhabitants in the sampanes alone (for each of them
+contains one family) must amount to nearly three times the number supposed
+by M. Sonnerat to be in the whole city.
+
+The military force of the province, of which Canton is the capital, amounts
+to fifty thousand men. It is said, that twenty thousand are stationed in
+and about the city; and, as a proof of this, I was assured, that, on the
+occasion of some disturbance that had happened at Canton, thirty thousand
+men were drawn together within the space of a few hours.
+
+The streets are long, and most of them narrow and irregular, but well paved
+with large stones, and, for the most part, kept exceedingly clean. The
+houses are built of brick, one story high, having generally two or three
+courts backward, in which are the warehouses for merchandise, and, in the
+houses within the city, the apartments for the women. A very few of the
+meanest sort are built of wood.
+
+The houses belonging to the European factors are built on an handsome quay,
+with a regular facade of two stories toward the river, and disposed within,
+partly after the European, and partly after the Chinese manner. Adjoining
+to these are a number of houses belonging to the Chinese, and hired out to
+the commanders of ships and merchants, who make an occasional stay. As no
+European is allowed to bring his wife to Canton, the English supercargoes
+live together at a common table, which is kept by the company, and have
+each a separate apartment, consisting of three or four rooms. The time of
+their residence seldom exceeds eight months annually; and as they are
+pretty constantly employed, during that time, in the service of the
+company, they may submit with the less regret to the restraints they are
+kept under. They very rarely pay any visits within the walls of Canton,
+except on public occasions. Indeed, nothing gave me so unfavourable an idea
+of the character of the Chinese, as to find, that, amongst so many persons
+of liberal minds and amiable manners, some of whom have resided in that
+country for near fifteen years together, they have never formed any
+friendship or social connection. As soon as the last ship quits Wampu, they
+are all obliged to retire to Macao; but, as a proof of the excellent police
+of the country, they leave all the money they possess in specie behind
+them, which, I was told, sometimes amounted to one hundred thousand pounds
+sterling, and for which they had no other security than the seals of the
+merchants of the hong, the viceroy, and mandarins.
+
+During my stay at Canton, I was carried, by one of the English gentlemen,
+to visit a person of the first consequence in the place. We were received
+in a long room or gallery, at the upper end of which stood a table, with a
+large chair behind it, and a row of chairs extending from it on each side
+down the room. Being previously instructed, that the point of civility
+consisted in remaining as long unseated as possible, I readily acquitted
+myself of this piece of etiquette; after which we were entertained with tea
+and some preserved and fresh fruits. Our host was very fat, with a heavy
+dull countenance, and of great gravity in his deportment. He spoke a little
+broken English and Portuguese; and, after we had taken our refreshment, he
+carried us about his house and garden; and having shewed us all the
+improvements he was making, we took our leave.
+
+Having procured an account of the price of provisions at Canton, as settled
+for the year 1780, which the reader will find at the end of this section, I
+have only to observe, that the different articles are supposed to be the
+best of the kind; and that the natives purchase the same for nearly one-
+third less than the price, which, in the list, is fixed only for strangers.
+
+I had hitherto intended, as well to avoid the trouble and delay of applying
+for passports, as to save the unnecessary expence of hiring a sampane,
+which, I understood, amounted at least to twelve pounds sterling, to go
+along with the stores to Macao, in the country merchant's ship I have
+before mentioned; but having received an invitation from two English
+gentlemen, who had obtained passports for four, I accepted, along with Mr
+Philips, their offer of places in a Chinese boat, and left Mr Lannyon to
+take care of the men and stores, which were to sail the next day. In the
+evening of the 26th, I took my leave of the supercargoes, having thanked
+them for their many obliging favours; amongst which I must not forget to
+mention an handsome present of tea for the use of the ships' companies, and
+a large collection of English periodical publications. The latter we found
+a valuable acquisition; as they both served to amuse our impatience, during
+our tedious voyage home, and enabled us to return not total strangers to
+what had been transacting in our native country. At one o'clock the next
+morning we left Canton, and arrived at Macao about the same hour the day
+following, having passed down a channel, which lies to the westward of that
+by which we had come up.
+
+During our absence, a brisk trade had been carrying on with the Chinese for
+the sea-otter skins, which had every day been rising in their value. One of
+our seamen sold his stock alone for eight hundred dollars; and a few prime
+skins, which were clean, and had been well preserved, were sold for one
+hundred and twenty each. The whole amount of the value, in specie and
+goods, that was got for the furs, in both ships, I am confident, did not
+fall short of two thousand pounds sterling; and it was generally supposed,
+that at least two-thirds of the quantity we had originally got from the
+Americans, were spoiled and worn out, or had been given away, and otherwise
+disposed of in Kamtschatka. When, in addition to these facts, it is
+remembered, that the furs were at first collected without our having any
+idea of their real value; that the greatest part had been worn by the
+Indians, from whom we purchased them; that they were afterward preserved
+with little care, and frequently used for bed-clothes, and other purposes,
+during our cruise to the north; and that, probably, we had never got the
+full-value for them in China; the advantages that might be derived from a
+voyage to that part of the American coast, undertaken with commercial
+views, appear to me of a degree of importance sufficient to call for the
+attention of the public.
+
+The rage with which our seamen were possessed to return to Cook's river,
+and by another cargo of skins to make their fortunes, at one time was not
+far short of mutiny; and I must own, I could not help indulging myself in a
+project, which the disappointment we had suffered, in being obliged to
+leave the Japanese archipelago, and the northern coast of China,
+unexplored, first suggested; and, by what I conceived, that object might
+still be happily accomplished, through means of the East India Company, not
+only without expence, but even with the prospect of very considerable
+advantages. Though the situation of affairs at home, or perhaps greater
+difficulties in the execution of my scheme than I had foreseen, have
+hitherto prevented its being carried into effect, yet, as I find the plan
+in my journal, and still retain my partiality for it, I hope it will not be
+entirely foreign to the nature of this work, if I beg leave to insert it
+here.
+
+I proposed then, that the company's China ships should carry an additional
+complement of men each, making in all one hundred. Two vessels, one of two
+hundred, and the other of one hundred and fifty tons, might, I was told,
+with, proper notice, be readily purchased at Canton; and, as victualling is
+not dearer there than in Europe, I calculate, that they might be completely
+fitted out for sea, with a year's pay and provision, for six thousand
+pounds, including the purchase. The expence of the necessary articles for
+barter is scarcely worth mentioning. I would, by all means, recommend, that
+each ship should have five tons of unwrought iron, a forge, and an expert
+smith, with a journeyman and apprentice, who might be ready to forge such
+tools as it should appear the Indians were most desirous of. For, though
+six of the finest skins purchased by us, were got for a dozen large green
+glass beads, yet it is well known, that the fancy of these people for
+articles of ornament is exceedingly capricious; and that iron is the only
+sure commodity for their market. To this might be added a few gross of
+large-pointed case-knives, some bales of coarse woollen cloth, (linen they
+would not accept of from us,) and a barrel or two of copper and glass
+trinkets.
+
+I have here proposed two ships, not only for the greater security of the
+expedition, but because I think single ships ought never to be sent out on
+discoveries. For where risks are to be run, and doubtful and hazardous
+experiments tried, it cannot be expected that single ships should venture
+so far, as where there is some security provided against untoward accident.
+
+The vessels being now ready for sea, will sail with the first south-
+westerly monsoon, which generally sets in about the beginning of April.
+With this wind they will steer to the northward, along the coast of China,
+beginning a more accurate survey from the mouth of the river Kyana, or the
+Nankin River, in latitude 30 deg., which, I believe, is the utmost limit of
+this coast hitherto visited by European ships. As the extent of that deep
+gulf called Whang Hay, or the Yellow Sea, is at present unknown, it must be
+left to the discretion of the commander, to proceed up it as far as he may
+judge prudent; but he must be cautious not to entangle himself too far in
+it, lest he should want time for the prosecution of the remaining part of
+his enterprise. The same discretion must be used when he arrives in the
+Straits of Tessoi, with respect to the islands of Jeso, which, if the wind
+and weather be favourable, he will not lose the opportunity of exploring.
+
+Having proceeded to the latitude of 51 deg. 40', where he will make the
+southernmost point of the island of Sagaleen, beyond which the sea of
+Okotzk is sufficiently known, he will steer to the southward, probably in
+the beginning of June, and endeavour to fall in with the southernmost of
+the Kurile Islands. Ooroop, or Nadeschda, according to the accounts of the
+Russians, will furnish the ships with a good harbour, where they may wood
+and water, and take in such other refreshments as the place may afford.
+Toward the end of June, they will shape their course for the Shummagins,
+and from thence to Cook's River, purchasing, as they proceed, as many skins
+as they are able, without losing too much time, since they ought to steer
+again to the southward, and trace the coast with great accuracy from the
+latitude of 56 deg. to 50 deg., the space from which we were driven out of sight of
+land by contrary winds. It should here be remarked, that I consider the
+purchase of skins, in this expedition, merely a secondary object, for
+defraying the expence; and it cannot be doubted, from our experience in the
+present voyage, that two hundred and fifty skins, worth one hundred dollars
+each, may be procured without any loss of time; especially as it is
+probable they will be met with along the coast to the southward of Cook's
+River.
+
+Having spent three months on the coast of America, they will set out on
+their return to China early in the month of October, avoiding, in their
+route, as much as possible, the tracks of former navigators. I have now
+only to add, that if the fur trade should become a fixed object of Indian
+commerce, frequent opportunities will occur of completing whatever may be
+left unfinished, in the voyage of which I have here ventured to delineate
+the outlines.
+
+The barter which had been carrying on with the Chinese for sea-otter skins,
+had produced a very whimsical change in the dress of all our crew. On our
+arrival in the Typa, nothing could exceed the ragged appearance both of the
+younger officers and seamen; for, as our voyage had already exceeded, by
+near a twelvemonth, the time it was at first imagined we should remain at
+sea, almost the whole of our original stock of European clothes had been
+long worn Out, or patched up with skins and the various manufactures we had
+met with in the course of our discoveries. These were now again mixed and
+eked out with the gaudiest silks and cottons of China.
+
+On the 30th, Mr Lannyon arrived with the stores and provisions, which were
+immediately stowed, in due proportion, on board the two ships. The next
+day, agreeably to a bargain made by Captain Gore, I sent our sheet-anchor
+to the country ship, and received in return the guns, which she before rode
+by.
+
+Whilst we lay in the Typa, I was shewn, in a garden belonging to an English
+gentleman at Macao, the rock, under which, as the tradition there goes, the
+poet Camoens used lo sit and compose his Lusiad. It is a lofty arch, of one
+solid stone, and forms the entrance of a grotto, dug out of the rising
+ground behind it. The rock is overshadowed by large spreading trees, and
+commands an extensive and magnificent view of the sea, and the interspersed
+islands.
+
+On the 11th of January, two seamen, belonging to the Resolution, found
+means to run off with a six-oared cutter, and, notwithstanding diligent
+search was made both that and the following day, we were never able to
+learn any tidings of her. It was supposed, that these people had been
+seduced by the prevailing notion of making a fortune, by returning to the
+fur islands.
+
+As we heard nothing, during our stay in the Typa, of the measurement of our
+ships, it may be concluded, that the point, so strongly contested by the
+Chinese, in Lord Anson's time, has, in consequence of his firmness and
+resolution, never since been insisted on.
+
+The following nautical observations were made while we lay here:
+
+
+Harbour of Macao                lat.  22 deg.  12'  0" north.
+                               long. 113   47   0  east.
+
+Anchoring-place in the          lat.  22    9  20  north.
+Typa                           long. 113   48  34  east.
+
+Mean dip of the north
+pole of the magnetic                  21    1   0
+needle
+
+Variation of the compass               0   19   0  west.
+
+
+On the full and change days it was high water in the Typa at 5^h 15^m, and
+in Macao harbour at 5^h 50^m. The greatest rise was six feet one inch. The
+flood appeared to come from the south-eastward; but we could not determine
+this point with certainty, on account of the great number of islands which
+lie off the mouth of the river of Canton.
+
+
+_Prices of Provisions at Canton_, 1780.
+
+                           L.  s.  d.
+Annas                      0   4   0       a score.
+Arrack                     0   0   8       per bottle.
+Butter                     0   2   0-4/5   per catty.[106]
+Beef, Canton               0   0   2-3/4
+Ditto, Macao               0   0   5-1/5
+Birds' nests               3   6   8
+Biscuit                    0   0   4
+Beache de Mar              0   2   0-4/5
+Calf                       1   6   9-3/5
+Caravances, dried          0   0   2-2/3
+Cabbage, Nankeen           0   0   4-4/5
+Curry stuff                0   4   4
+Coffee                     0   1   4       per catty.
+Cocoa-nuts                 0   0   4       each.
+Charcoal                   0   3   4       per pecul.
+Coxice                     0   1   4       per catty.
+Canton nuts                0   0   4
+Chesnuts                   0   0   2-2/5
+Cockles                    0   0   3-1/5
+Ducks                      0   0   5-1/5
+Ditto, wild                0   1   0-4/5
+Deers' sinews              0   2   1-3/5
+Eels                       0   0   6-2/5
+Eggs                       0   2   0       per hundred.
+Fish, common               0   0   3-1/5   per catty.
+Ditto, best                0   0   6-2/5
+Ditto salted, Nankeen      0   0   9-3/5
+Fruit                      0   0   1-3/5
+Ditto, Nankeen             0   2   0
+Frogs                      0   0   6-2/5
+Flour                      0   0   1-76/100
+Fowls, capons, &c.         0   0   7-1/5
+Fish-maws                  0   2   1-3/5
+Geese                      0   0   6-2/5
+Greens                     0   0   1-3/4
+Grass                      0   0   2-2/5   per bundle.
+Grapes                     0   1   0-4/5   per catty.
+Ham                        0   1   2-2/5
+Hartshorn                  0   1   4
+Hogslard                   0   0   7-1/5
+Hog, alive                 0   0   4-3/4
+Kid, alive                 0   0   4-3/4
+Limes                      0   0   0-4/5   per catty.
+Litches, dried             0   0   2-2/5
+Locksoy                    0   0   6-2/5
+Lobchocks                  0   0   5-3/5
+Lamp-oil                   0   0   5-3/5
+Lamp-wick                  0   0   8
+Melons                     0   0   4-4/5   each.
+Milk                       0   0   1-1/4   per catty.
+Ditto, Macao               0   0   3-1/5
+Mustard seed               0   0   6-2/5
+Mushrooms, pickled         0   2   8
+Ditto, fresh               0   1   4
+Oysters                    0   3   4       per   pecul.
+Onions, dried              0   0   2-2/5   per catty.
+Pork                       0   0   7-1/7
+Pig                        0   0   5-3/5
+Paddy                      0   0   0-4/5
+Pepper                     0   1   0-4/5
+Pheasants                  0   5   4       each.
+Partridges                 0   0   9-1/5
+Pigeons                    0   0   5-1/5
+Pomegranates               0   0   2-2/5
+Quails                     0   0   1-3/5
+Rabbits                    0   1   4
+Rice                       0   0   2       per catty.
+Ditto, red                 0   0   2-2/5
+Ditto, coarse              0   0   1-1/5
+Ditto, Japan               0   0   8
+Raisins                    0   2   0
+Sheep                      3   6   8       each.
+Snipes                     0   0   1-1/2   per catty.
+Sturgeon                   0   4   9-3/5
+Ditto, small               0   2   4-4/5
+Sugar                      0   0   3-1/5
+Salt                       0   0   1-3/5
+Saltpetre                  0   2   1-3/5
+Soy                        0   0   1-3/5
+Spices                     0  16   8
+Sweetmeats                 0   0   6-2/5
+Sago                       0   0   3-1/5
+Sallad                     0   0   2-2/5
+Sharks' fins               0   2   1-3/5
+Samsui soy                 0   0   2-2/5
+Teal                       0   0   6-2/5   each.
+Turtle                     0   0   9-3/5   per catty.
+Tea                        0   2   0
+Turmerick                  0   0   2-2/5
+Tamarinds                  0   0   8
+Vinegar                    0   0   1-3/5
+Vermicelli                 0   0   3-1/5
+Wax-candles                0   3   0
+Walnuts                    0   0   4-4/5
+Wood                       0  1  4         per pecul.
+Water                      0  6  8         per 100 barrels.
+
+Rent of Poho Factory     400  0  0         per annum.
+     of Lunsoon          316 13  4
+Servant's rice             0  8  0         per month.
+Ditto wages                0 19  2-1/5     do. for resiants.
+
+                                   _Doll_.
+Servant's wages for the season     20
+Steward's wages                    80
+Butler's ditto                     80 per annum.
+
+_Prices of Labour_.
+
+A coolee, or porter        0   0   8     per day.
+A tailor                   0   0   5     and rice.
+A handicraftsman           0   0   8
+A common labourer, from 3d. to 5d.
+A woman's labour considerably cheaper.
+
+
+[104] It is scarcely necessary to inform any reader that Captain King here
+    alludes to the American war, in which first the French and then the
+    Spaniards took part against Great Britain. The passage is certainly a
+    very striking evidence of that enthusiasm which animates our gallant
+    seamen in all corners of the globe, to feel and to fight for Old
+    England; and perhaps to this spirit, as well as to his eminent
+    professional abilities in other respects, we may ascribe Captain
+    King's appointment, not long after his return home, to the command of
+    the Resistance man of war, sent on service to the West Indies.--E.
+
+[105] J'ai _verifie_ moi-meme, avec plusieurs Chinois, la population
+    de Canton, de la ville de Tartare, et de celie de Battaux,
+    &c.--_Voyage aux Indes, &c_. par M. Sonnerat, tom. ii. p. 14.
+
+[106] A catty is 18 oz.--A pecul 100 catty.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION X.
+
+
+Leave the Typa.--Orders of the Court of France respecting Captain Cook.--
+Resolutions in consequence thereof.--Strike Soundings on the Macclesfield
+Banks.--Pass Pulo Sapata.--Steer for Pulo Condore.--Anchor at Pulo
+Condore.--Transactions during our Stay.--Journey to the principal Town.--
+Receive a Visit from a Mandarin.--Examine his Letters.--Refreshments to be
+procured.--Description, and present State of the Island.--Its produce.--An
+Assertion of M. Sonnerat refuted.--Astronomical and Nautical Observations.
+
+
+On the 12th of January, 1780, at noon, we unmoored, and scaled the guns,
+which, on board my ship, now amounted to ten; so that, by means of four
+additional ports, we could, if occasion required, fight seven on a side. In
+like manner, the Resolution had increased the number of her guns from
+twelve to sixteen; and, in both ships, a stout barricade was carried round
+their upper works, and every other precaution taken to give our small force
+as respectable an appearance as possible.
+
+We thought it our duty to provide ourselves with these means of defence,
+though we had some reason to believe that the generosity of our enemies
+had, in a great measure, rendered them superfluous. We were informed at
+Canton, that the public prints, which had arrived last from England, made
+mention of instructions having been found on board all the French ships of
+war, captured in Europe, directing their commanders, in case of falling in
+with the ships that sailed under the command of Captain Cook, to suffer
+them to proceed on their voyage without molestation. The same orders were
+also said to have been given by the American congress to the vessels
+employed in their service. As this intelligence was farther confirmed by
+the private letters of several of the supercargoes, Captain Gore thought
+himself bound, in return for the liberal exceptions made in our favour, to
+refrain from availing himself of any opportunities of capture which these
+seas might afford, and to preserve, throughout his voyage, the strictest
+neutrality.[107]
+
+At two in the afternoon, having got under sail, the Resolution saluted the
+fort of Macao with eleven guns, which was returned with the same number. At
+five, the wind dropping, the ship missed stays, and drove into shallow
+water; but, by carrying out an anchor, she was hauled off without receiving
+the smallest damage. The weather continuing calm, we were obliged to warp
+out into the entrance of the Typa, which we gained by eight o'clock, and
+lay there till nine the next morning; when, by the help of a fresh breeze
+from the east, we stood to the southward, between Potoe and Wungboo.
+
+At noon, we were saluted by a Swedish ship, as she passed us, on her way to
+Europe. At four, the Ladrone bore E., distant two leagues. We now steered
+S. 1/2 E., with a fresh breeze from the E.N.E., without any occurrence
+worth remarking, till noon of the 15th, when, being in latitude 18 deg. 57',
+and longitude 114 deg. 13', the wind veering to the N., we directed our course
+half a point more to the eastward, in order to strike soundings over the
+Macclesfield Bank. This we effected at eight in the evening of the 16th,
+and found the depth of water to be fifty fathoms, over a bottom of white
+sand and shells. This part of the Macclesfield shoals we placed in latitude
+15 deg. 51', and in longitude 114 deg. 20'; which agrees very exactly with the
+position given in Mr Dalrymple's map, whose general accuracy, if it stood
+in need of any support, was confirmed, in this instance, by a great number
+of lunar observations, which we had an opportunity of making every day
+since we left the Typa. The variation was found to be, in the forenoon, 0 deg.
+39' W.
+
+On the 17th, we had heavy gales from the E. by N., with a rough tumbling
+sea, and the weather overcast and boisterous. On the 18th, the wind still
+continuing to blow strong, and the sea to run high, we altered our course
+to S.W. by S.; and at noon, being in latitude 12 deg. 34', longitude 112 deg., we
+began to steer a point more to the westward for Pulo Sapata, which we saw
+on the 19th, at four in the afternoon, bearing N.W. by W., about four
+leagues distant. This small, high, barren island, is called _Sapata_, from
+its resemblance of a shoe. Our observations, compared with Mr Bayley's
+time-keeper, place it in latitude 10 deg. 4' N. longitude 109 deg. 10' E. The gale
+had, at this time, increased with such violence, and the sea ran so high,
+as to oblige us to close-reef the topsails. During the last three days, the
+ships had outrun their reckoning at the rate of twenty miles a-day, and as
+we could not attribute the whole of this to the effects of a following sea,
+we imputed it in part to a current, which, according to my own
+calculations, had set forty-two miles to the S.S.W., between the noon of
+the 19th and the noon of the 20th; and is taken into the account in
+determining the situation of the island.
+
+After passing Sapata, we steered to the westward; and at midnight sounded,
+and had ground with fifty fathoms of line, over a fine sandy bottom. In the
+morning of the 20th, the wind becoming more moderate, we let out the reefs,
+and steered W. by S. for Pulo Condore. At noon, the latitude was 8 deg. 46' N.,
+longitude 106 deg. 45' E.; and at half-past twelve we got sight of the island,
+bearing W. At four, the extremes of Pulo Condore, and the islands that lie
+off it, bore S.E. and S.W. by W.; our distance from the nearest islands
+being two miles. We kept to the N. of the islands, and stood for the
+harbour on the S.W. end of Condore, which, having its entrance from the
+N.W. is the best sheltered during the N.E. monsoon. At six, we anchored,
+with the best bower, in six fathoms, veered away two-thirds of the cable,
+and kept the ship steady with a stream-anchor and cable to the S.E. When
+moored, the extremes of the entrance of the harbour bore N. by W., and
+W.N.W. 1/4 W.; the opening at the upper end S.E. by E. 3/4 E.; our distance
+from the nearest shore a quarter of a mile.
+
+As soon as we were come to anchor, Captain Gore fired a gun, with a view of
+apprising the natives of our arrival, and drawing them toward the shore,
+but without effect. Early in the morning of the 21st, parties were sent to
+cut wood, which was Captain Gore's principal motive for coming hither. In
+the afternoon, a sudden gust of wind broke the stream-cable, by which the
+Discovery was riding, and obliged us to moor with the bower-anchors.
+
+None of the natives having yet made their appearance, notwithstanding a
+second gun had been fired, Captain Gore thought it adviseable to land, and
+go in search of them, that no time might be lost in opening a trade for
+such provisions as the place could afford; with this view he appointed me
+to accompany him, in the morning of the 22d; and, as the wind at this time
+blew strong from the E., we did not think it prudent to coast in our boats
+to the town, which is situated in the E. side of the island, but rowed
+round the north point of the harbour. We had proceeded about two miles
+along the shore, when, observing a road that led into a wood, we landed.
+Here I quitted Captain Gore, taking with me a midshipman and four armed
+sailors, and pursued the path which seemed to point directly across the
+island. We proceeded through a thick wood, up a steep hill, to the distance
+of a mile, when, after descending through a wood of the same extent, on the
+other side, we came out into a flat, open, sandy country, interspersed with
+cultivated spots of rice and tobacco, and groves of cabbage palm-trees and
+cocoa-nut trees. We here spied two huts, situated on the edge of the wood,
+to which we directed our course; and, before we came up to them, were
+descried by two men, who immediately ran away from us, notwithstanding all
+the peaceable and supplicating gestures we could devise.
+
+On reaching the huts, I ordered the party to stay without, lest the sight
+of so many armed men should terrify the inhabitants, whilst I entered and
+reconnoitred alone. I found, in one of the huts, an elderly man, who was in
+a great fright, and preparing to make off with the most valuable of his
+effects that he could carry. However, I was fortunate enough, in a very
+little time, so entirely to dispel his fears, that he came out, and called
+to the two men, who were running away, to return. The old man and I now
+soon came to a perfect understanding. A few signs, particularly that most
+significant one of holding out a handful of dollars, and then pointing to a
+herd of buffaloes, and the fowls that were running about the huts in great
+numbers, left him without any doubts as to the real objects of our visit.
+He pointed toward a place where the town stood, and made us comprehend,
+that, by going thither, all our wants would be supplied. By this time, the
+young men, who had fled, were returned; and the old man ordered one of them
+to conduct us to the town, as soon as an obstacle should be removed, of
+which we were not aware. On our first coming out of the wood, a herd of
+buffaloes, to the number of twenty at least, came running toward us,
+tossing up their heads, snuffing the air, and roaring in a hideous manner.
+They had followed us to the huts, and stood drawn up in a body, at a little
+distance; and the old man made us understand, that it would be exceedingly
+dangerous for us to move till they were driven into the woods; but so
+enraged were the animals grown at the sight of us, that this was not
+effected without a good deal of time and difficulty. The men not being able
+to accomplish it, we were surprised to see them, call to their assistance a
+few little boys, who soon drove them out of sight. Afterward, we had
+occasion to observe, that, in driving these animals, and securing them,
+which is done by putting a rope through a hole which is made in their
+nostrils, little boys were always employed, who could stroke and handle
+them with impunity, at times when the men durst not approach them. Having
+got rid of the buffaloes, we were conducted to the town, which was at a
+mile's distance; the road to it lying through a deep white sand. It is
+situated near the sea-side, at the bottom of a retired bay, which must
+afford a safe road-stead during the prevalence of the S.W. monsoons.
+
+This town consists of between twenty and thirty houses, built close
+together; besides six or seven others that are scattered about the beach.
+The roof, the two ends, and the side fronting the country, are neatly
+constructed of reeds; the opposite side, facing the sea, is entirely open;
+but, by means of a sort of bamboo screens, they can exclude or let in as
+much of the sun or air as they please. We observed, likewise, other large
+screens or partitions, for the purpose of dividing, as occasion required,
+the single room of which the house, properly speaking, consists, into
+separate apartments.
+
+We were conducted to the largest house in the town, belonging to their
+chief, or, as they called him, their captain. This house had a room at each
+end, separated by a partition of reeds from the middle space, which was
+open on both sides, and provided with partition screens like the others. It
+had, besides, a penthouse, projecting four or five feet beyond the roof,
+and running the whole length on each side. At each end of the middle room
+were hung some Chinese paintings, representing men and women in ludicrous
+attitudes. In this apartment we were civilly desired to seat ourselves on
+mats, and _betel_ was presented to us.
+
+By means of my money, and pointing at different objects in sight, I had no
+difficulty in making a man, who seemed to be the principal person of the
+company, comprehend the main business of our errand; and I as readily
+understood from him, that the chief, or captain, was absent, but would soon
+return; and that, without his consent, no purchases of any kind could be
+made. We availed ourselves of the opportunity which this circumstance
+afforded us, to walk about the town; and did not forget to search, though
+in vain, for the remains of a fort, which had been built by our countrymen
+near the spot we were now upon, in 17O2.[108]
+
+On returning to the captain's house, we were sorry to find that he was not
+yet arrived; and the more so, as the time was almost elapsed which Captain
+Gore had fixed for our return to the boat. The natives were desirous we
+should lengthen our stay; they even proposed our passing the night there,
+and offered to accommodate us in the best manner in their power. I had
+observed, when we were in the house before, and now remarked it the more,
+that the man I have mentioned above frequently retired into one of the end
+rooms, and staid there some little time, before he answered the questions
+that were put to him; which led me to suspect that the captain was all the
+time there, though, for reasons best known to himself, he did not choose to
+appear; and I was confirmed in this opinion, by being stopped as I was
+attempting to go into the room. At length, it clearly appeared that my
+suspicions were well founded; for, on our preparing to depart, the person
+who had so often passed in and out, came from the room, with a paper in his
+hand, and gave it to me to read; and I was not a little surprised to find
+in it a sort of a certificate, in French, as follows:
+
+
+PIERRE JOSEPH GEORGE, Eveque d'Adran, Vicaire Apost. de Cochin China, &c.
+&c.
+
+Le petit _Mandarin_, porteur de cet ecrit, est veritablement Envoye de la
+cour a Pulo Condore, pour y attendre et recevoir tout vaisseau European qui
+auroit sa destination d'approcher ici. Le Capitaine, en consequence,
+pourroit se fier ou pour conduire le vaisseau au port, ou pour faire passer
+les nouvelles qu'll pourroit croire necessaire.
+
+PIERRE JOSEPH GEORGE,
+
+Eveque d'Adran.
+
+A SAI-GON, 10 d'Aout, 1779.
+
+
+We returned the paper, with many protestations of our being the
+_Mandarin_'s good friends, begging he might be informed that we hoped he
+would do us the favour to visit the ships, that we might convince him of
+it. We now took our leave, well satisfied on the whole with what had
+passed, but full of conjectures about this extraordinary French paper.
+Three of the natives offered their services to accompany us back, which we
+readily accepted, and returned by the way we came. Captain Gore felt
+peculiar satisfaction at seeing us; for, as we had exceeded our time near
+an hour, he began to be alarmed for our safety, and was preparing to march
+after us. He and his party had, during our absence, been profitably
+employed, in loading the boat with the cabbage-palm, which abounds in this
+bay. Our guides were made exceedingly happy, on our presenting them with a
+dollar each for their trouble, and intrusting to their care a bottle of rum
+for the _Mandarin_. One of them chose to accompany us on board.
+
+At two in the afternoon we joined the ships, and several of our shooting
+parties returned about the same time from the woods, having had little
+success, though they saw a great variety of birds and animals, some of
+which will be hereafter noticed.
+
+At five, a _proa_, with six men, rowed up to the ship, from the upper end
+of the harbour, and a decent-looking personage introduced himself to
+Captain Gore with an ease and good breeding, which convinced us his time
+had been spent in other company than what this island afforded. He brought
+with him the French paper above transcribed, and said he was the _Mandarin_
+mentioned in it. He spoke a few Portuguese words; but, as none of us were
+acquainted with this language, we were obliged to have recourse to a black
+man on board, who could speak the Malay, which is the general language of
+these islanders, and was understood by the _Mandarin_. After a little
+previous conversation, he declared to us that he was a Christian, and had
+been baptised by the name of Luco; that he had been, sent hither in August
+last, from Sai-gon, the capital of Cochin China, and had since waited in
+expectation of some French ships, which he was to pilot to a safe port, not
+more than a day's sail hence, upon the coast of Cochin China. We acquainted
+him, that we were not French, but English, and asked him, whether he did
+not know that these two nations were now at war with one another. He made
+answer in the affirmative; but, at the same time, signified to us, that it
+was indifferent to him to what nation the ships he was instructed to wait
+for belonged, provided their object was to trade with the people of Cochin
+China. He here produced another paper, which he desired us to read. This
+was a letter sealed, and directed "To the captains of any European vessels
+that may touch at Condore." Although we apprehended that this letter was
+designed for French ships in particular, yet as the direction included all
+European captains, and as Luco was desirous of our perusing it, we broke
+the seal, and found it to be written by the bishop who wrote the
+certificate. Its contents were as follows: "That having reason to expect,
+by some late intelligence from Europe, that a vessel would soon come to
+Cochin China, he had, in consequence of this news, got the court to send a
+_Mandarin_ (the bearer) to Pulo Condore, to wait its arrival; that if the
+vessel should put in there, the commander might either send by the bearer
+an account to him of his arrival, or trust himself to the _Mandarin_, who
+would pilot him into a well-sheltered port in Cochin China, not more than a
+day's sail from Condore; that, should he choose to remain in Condore till
+the return of the messenger, proper interpreters would be sent back, and
+any other assistance, which a letter should point out, be furnished; that
+it was unnecessary to be more particular, of which the captain himself must
+be sensible." This letter had the same date as the certificate, and was
+returned to Luco again, without any copy being taken.
+
+From this letter, and the whole of Luco's conversation, there remained
+little doubt, that it was a French ship he was to expect; at the same time
+we found he would be glad not to lose his errand, and had no objection to
+become our pilot. We could not discover from the _Mandarin_, the exact
+object and business which the vessel he was waiting for intended to
+prosecute in Cochin China. It is true, that our interpreter, the black, was
+extremely dull and stupid, and I should therefore be sorry, with such
+imperfect means of information, to run the risk of misleading the reader by
+any conjectures of my own, respecting the object of Luco's visit to this
+island. I shall only add, that he told us the French ships might perhaps
+have put into Tirnon, and from thence sail to Cochin China; and as he had
+received no intelligence of them, he thought this most likely to have been
+the case.
+
+Captain Gore's enquiries were next directed to find out what supplies could
+be obtained from the island. Luco said, that he had two buffaloes of his
+own, which were at our service; and that there were plenty on the island,
+which might be purchased for four or five dollars a head; but finding that
+Captain Gore thought that sum exceedingly moderate, and would willingly
+give for them a much greater, the price was afterward raised upon us to
+seven and eight dollars.
+
+Early in the morning of the 23d, the launches of both ships were sent to
+the town, to fetch the buffaloes which we had given orders to be purchased;
+but they were obliged to wait till it was high-water, as they could at no
+other time get through the opening at the head of the harbour. On their
+arrival at the village, they found the surf breaking on the beach with such
+force, that it was with the utmost difficulty each launch brought a
+buffaloe on board in the evening, and the officers, who were sent on this
+service, gave it as their opinion, that between the violence of the surf,
+and the fierceness of the buffaloes, it would be extremely imprudent to
+attempt bringing any more off in this way. We had purchased eight, and were
+now at a loss in what manner to proceed to get them on board. We could kill
+no more than was just necessary for the consumption of one day, as in this
+climate meat will not keep till the next. After consulting with Luco, it
+was concluded, that the remainder should be driven through the wood, and
+over the hill down to the bay, where Captain Gore and I had landed the day
+before, which being sheltered from the wind, was more free from surf. This
+plan was accordingly put in execution; but the untractableness and
+prodigious strength of the buffaloes, rendered it a tedious and difficult
+operation. The method of conducting them was, by passing ropes through
+their nostrils, and round their horns; but having been once enraged at the
+sight of our men, they became so furious, that they sometimes broke the
+trees, to which we were often under the necessity of tying them; sometimes
+they tore asunder the cartilage of the nostril, through which the ropes
+ran, and got loose. On these occasions, all the exertions of our men to
+recover them would have been ineffectual, without the assistance of some
+young boys, whom these animals would permit to approach them, and by whose
+little managements their rage was soon appeased. And when, at length, they
+were got down to the beach, it was by their aid, in twisting ropes round
+their legs, in the manner they were directed, that we were enabled to throw
+them down, and by that means to get them into the boats. A circumstance,
+respecting these animals, which I thought no less singular than this
+gentleness toward, and, as it should seem, affection for little children,
+was, that they had not been twenty-four hours on board, before they became
+the tamest of all creatures. I kept two of them, a male and female, for a
+considerable time, which, became great favourites with the sailors, and,
+thinking that a breed of animals of such strength and size, some of them
+weighing, when dressed, seven hundred pounds weight, would be a valuable
+acquisition, I was inclined to have brought them with me to England; but my
+intention was frustrated by an incurable hurt that one of them received at
+sea.[109]
+
+It was not till the 28th, that the buffaloes were all got on board;
+however, there was no reason to regret the time taken up by this service,
+since, in the interim, two wells of excellent water had been discovered, of
+which, as also of wood, part of the ships' companies had been employed in
+laying in a good supply; so that a shorter stop would be necessary, for
+replenishing our stock of these articles in the Strait of Sunda. A party
+had likewise been occupied in drawing the seine, at the head of the
+harbour, where they took a great many good fish; and another party, in
+cutting down the cabbage palm, which was boiled and served out with the
+meat. Besides this, having been able to procure only a scanty supply of
+cordage at Macao, the repairing of our rigging was become an object of
+constant attention, and demanded all our spare time.
+
+Pulo-Condore is high and mountainous, and surrounded by several smaller
+islands, some of which are less than one, and others two miles distant. It
+takes its name from two Malay words, _Pulo_, signifying an island, and
+_Condore_, a calabash, of which it produces great quantities. It is of the
+form of a crescent, extending near eight miles from the southernmost point,
+in a N.E. direction; but its breadth nowhere exceeds two miles. From the
+westernmost extremity, the land trends to the S.E. for about four miles;
+and opposite to this part of the coast there is an island, called, by
+Monsieur D'Apres,[110] _Little Condore_, which runs two miles in the same
+direction. This position of the two islands affords a safe and commodious
+harbour, the entrance into which is from the N.W. The distance between the
+two opposite coasts is three quarters of a mile, exclusive of a border of
+coral rock, which runs down along each side, extending about one hundred
+yards from the shore. The anchorage is very good, from eleven to five
+fathoms water, but the bottom is so soft and clayey, that we found great
+difficulty in weighing our anchors. Toward the bottom of the harbour there
+is shallow water for about half a mile, beyond which the two islands
+approach so near each other, as to leave only a passage at high water for
+boats. The most convenient place for watering is at a beach on the eastern
+side, where there is a small stream which furnished us with fourteen or
+fifteen tons of water a day.
+
+This island, both with respect to animal and vegetable productions, is
+considerably improved since the time when Dampier visited it. Neither that
+writer, nor the compiler of the East India Directory, make mention of any
+other quadrupeds than hogs, which are said to be very scarce, lizards, and
+the guanoes; and the latter, on the authority of Monsieur Dedier, a French
+engineer, who surveyed the island about the year 1720, says, that none of
+the fruits and esculent plants, so common in the other parts of India, are
+to be found here, except water-melons, a few potatoes, small gourds,
+_chibbolds_, (a small species of onion,) and little black beans. At
+present, besides the buffaloes, of which we understood there were several
+large herds, we purchased from the natives some remarkably fine fat hogs,
+of the Chinese breed. They brought us three or four of a wild sort; and our
+sportsmen reported, that they frequently met with their tracks in the
+woods, which also abound with monkies and squirrels, but so shy, that it
+was difficult to shoot them. One species of the squirrel was of a beautiful
+shining black colour; and another species striped brown and white. This is
+called the flying-squirrel, from being provided with a thin membrane,
+resembling a bat's wing, extended on each side the belly, from the neck to
+the thighs; which, on stretching out their legs, spreads and enables them
+to fly from tree to tree, at a considerable distance. Lizards were in great
+abundance; but I do not know that any of us saw the guano, and another
+animal described by Dampier[111] as resembling the guano, only much larger.
+
+Amongst its vegetable improvements, I have already mentioned the fields of
+rice we passed through; and plantains, various kinds of pompions, cocoa-
+nuts, oranges, shaddocks, and pomegranates, were also met with; though,
+except the plantains and shaddocks, in no great abundance.
+
+It is probable, from what has been already said, relative to the Bishop of
+Adran, that the French have introduced these improvements into the island,
+for the purpose of making it a more convenient refreshing station for any
+of their ships that may be bound for Cambodia, or Cochin China. Should they
+have made, or intend to make, any settlement in those countries, it is
+certainly well situated for that purpose, or for annoying the trade of
+their enemies, in case of war.
+
+Our sportsmen were very unsuccessful in their pursuit of the feathered
+game, with which the woods are well stocked. One of our gentlemen had the
+good fortune to shoot a wild hen; and all the shooting parties agreed that
+they heard the crowing of the cocks on every side, which they described to
+be like that of our common cock, but shriller; that they saw several of
+them on the wing, but that they were exceedingly shy. The hen that was shot
+was of a speckled colour, and of the same shape, though not quite so large,
+as a full-grown pullet of this country. Monsieur Sonnerat has entered into
+a long dissertation, to prove that he was the first person who determined
+the country to which this most beautiful and useful bird belongs, and
+denies that Dampier met with it here.
+
+The land in the neighbourhood of the harbour is a continued high hill,
+richly adorned with a variety of fine tall trees, from the summit to the
+water's edge. Among others, we observed what Dampier calls the tar-
+tree;[112] but observed none that were tapped, in the manner he describes.
+
+The inhabitants, who are fugitives from Cambodia and Cochin China, are not
+numerous. They are of a short stature, and very swarthy, and of a weak and
+unhealthy aspect; but, as far as we could judge, of a gentle disposition.
+
+We remained here till the 28th of January; and, at taking leave of the
+_Mandarin_, Captain Gore, at his own request, gave him a letter of
+recommendation to the commanders of any other ships that might put in here;
+to which he added a handsome present. He likewise gave him a letter for the
+Bishop of Adran, together with a telescope, which he begged might be
+presented to him as a compliment for the services he had received, through
+his means, at Condore.
+
+
+The harbour at Pulo Condore is in latitude      8 deg. 40' 00" N.
+
+Longitude, deduced from a great number
+of lunar observations                         105  18  46  E.
+
+Dip of the north pole of the magnetic
+needle                                          2   1
+
+Variation of the compass                           14      W.
+
+High water, at the full and change
+of the moon                                   4^h 16^m apparent time.
+
+
+From this time the water continued, for twelve hours, without any visible
+alteration, viz. till 16^h 15^m apparent time, when it began to ebb; and at
+22^h 15^m apparent time it was low water. The change, from ebbing to
+flowing, was very quick, or in less than 5^m. The water rose and fell seven
+feet four inches perpendicular; and every day the same whilst we continued
+there.
+
+
+[107] On this subject we are presented with a communication in the Biog.
+    Brit., made on the authority and from the materials of Sir Joseph
+    Banks. As that work is now probably in few hands, and as the
+    information itself is extremely interesting, it would be injustice to
+    the readers, in general, not to put them in possession of the facts of
+    the case. But the writer, not wishing to "extenuate or set down aught
+    in malice," prefers a fair copy of the entire passage, to any
+    imperfect, and perhaps scarcely unprejudiced abstract of its contents.
+
+    "Not long after Captain Cook's death, an event occurred in Europe,
+    which had a particular relation to the voyage of our Navigator, and
+    which was so honourable to himself, and to the great nation from whom
+    it proceeded, that it is no small pleasure to me to be able to lay the
+    transaction somewhat at large before my readers. What I refer to is,
+    the letter which was issued, on the 19th of March, 1779, by Monsieur
+    Sartine, Secretary of the Marine Department at Paris, and sent to all
+    the commanders of French ships. The rescript was as follows: 'Captain
+    Cook, who sailed from Plymouth in July, 1776, on board the Resolution,
+    in company with the Discovery, Captain Clerke, in order to make some
+    discoveries on the coasts, islands, and seas of Japan and California,
+    being on the point of returning to Europe; and such discoveries being
+    of general utility to all nations, it is the king's pleasure, that
+    Captain Cook shall be treated as a commander of a neutral and allied
+    power, and that all captains of armed vessels, &c. who may meet that
+    famous Navigator, shall make him acquainted with the king's orders on
+    this behalf; but, at the same time, let him know, that, on his part,
+    he must refrain from all hostilities.' By the Marquis of Condorcet we
+    are informed, that this measure originated in the liberal and
+    enlightened mind of that excellent citizen and statesman, Monsieur
+    Turgot. 'When war,' says the Marquis, 'was declared between France and
+    England, M. Turgot saw how honourable it would be to the French
+    nation, that the vessel of Captain Cook should be treated with respect
+    at sea. He composed a memorial, in which he proved, that honour,
+    reason, and even interest, dictated this act of respect for humanity;
+    and it was in consequence of this memorial, the author of which was
+    unknown during his life, that an order was given not to treat as an
+    enemy, the common benefactor of every European nation.' Whilst great
+    praise is due to Monsieur Turgot, for having suggested the adoption of
+    a measure which hath contributed so much to the reputation of the
+    French government, it must not be forgotten, that the first thought of
+    such a plan of conduct was probably owing to Dr Benjamin Franklin.
+    Thus much, at least, is certain, that this eminent philosopher, when
+    Embassador at Paris from the United States of America, preceded the
+    court of France in issuing a similar requisition; a copy of which
+    cannot fail of being acceptable to the reader.
+
+    _'To all Captains and Commanders of Armed Ships, acting by Commission
+    from the Congress of the United States of America, now in war with
+    Great Britain_.
+
+    'Gentlemen,
+
+    'A ship having been fitted out from England before the commencement of
+    this war, to make discoveries of new countries in unknown seas, under
+    the conduct of that most celebrated Navigator and Discoverer, Captain
+    Cook; an undertaking truly laudable in itself, as the increase of
+    geographical knowledge facilitates the communication between distant
+    nations, in the exchange of useful products and manufactures, and the
+    extension of arts, whereby the common enjoyments of human life are
+    multiplied and augmented, and science of other kinds increased, to the
+    benefit of mankind in general.--This is therefore most earnestly to
+    recommend to every one of you, that in case the said ship, which is
+    now expected to be soon in the European seas on her return, should
+    happen to fall into your hands, you should not consider her as an
+    enemy, nor suffer any plunder to be made of the effects contained in
+    her, nor obstruct her immediate return to England, by detaining her,
+    or sending her into any other part of Europe, or to America; but that
+    you would treat the said Captain Cook and his people with all civility
+    and kindness, affording them, as common friends to mankind, all the
+    assistance in your power, which they may happen to stand in need of.
+    In so doing, you will not only gratify the generosity of your own
+    dispositions, but there is no doubt of your obtaining the approbation
+    of the Congress, and your other American owners.
+
+    I have the honour to be,
+
+    Gentlemen,
+
+    Your most obedient humble servant,
+
+    B. FRANKLIN,
+
+    Minister Plenipotentiary from the Congress of the United States, at
+    the Court of France.
+
+    _At Passy, near Paris, this 10th day of March, 1779_.'
+
+    "It is observable, that as Dr Franklin acted on his own authority, he
+    could only _earnestly recommend_ to the commanders of American armed
+    vessels not to consider Captain Cook as an enemy; and it is somewhat
+    remarkable, that he mentions no more than one ship; Captain Clerke not
+    being noticed in the requisition. In the confidence which the Doctor
+    expressed, with respect to the approbation of Congress, he happened to
+    be mistaken. As the members of that assembly, at least with regard to
+    the greater part of them, were not possessed of minds equally
+    enlightened with that of their embassador, he was not supported by his
+    masters in this noble act of humanity, of love to science, and of
+    liberal policy. The orders he had given were instantly reversed; and
+    it was directed by Congress, that especial care should be taken to
+    seize Captain Cook, if an opportunity of doing it occurred. All this
+    proceeded from a false notion, that it would be injurious to the
+    United States for the English to obtain a knowledge of the opposite
+    coast of America. The conduct of the court of Spain was regulated by
+    similar principles of jealousy. It was apprehended by that court, that
+    there was reason to be cautious of granting, too easily, an indulgence
+    to Captain Cook; since it was not certain what mischiefs might ensue
+    to the Spaniards from a northern passage to their American dominions.
+    M. de Belluga, a Spanish gentleman and officer, of a liberal and a
+    philosophical turn of mind, and who was a member of the Royal Society
+    of London, endeavoured to prevail upon the count of Florida Blanca,
+    and M. d'Almodavar, to grant an order of protection to the Resolution
+    and Discovery; and he flattered himself, that the ministers of the
+    king of Spain would be prevailed upon to prefer the cause of science
+    to the partial views of interest; but the Spanish government was not
+    capable of rising to so enlarged and magnanimous a plan of policy. To
+    the French nation alone, therefore, was reserved the honour of setting
+    an example of wisdom and humanity, which, I trust, will not,
+    hereafter, be so uncommon in the history of mankind."
+
+    The illiberality of his contemporaries, it may be remarked, is not one
+    of the least evils with which a mind advanced beyond their standard,
+    has to contend; but he has always one consolation in which he may take
+    refuge--the time will come when the gratitude of science and humanity
+    will vindicate his views, though charity, perhaps, forbid their
+    jealousy and prejudices to be remembered as a contrast. Nations never
+    more injure themselves in opinion, which is so closely connected with
+    their best interests, than when, from narrow policy and unfounded
+    suspicions, they obstruct, or attempt to obstruct, the prosecution of
+    undertakings which have the welfare of our common nature for their
+    object. The best apology which it is possible to make for them in such
+    cases, is, that they are too ignorant to comprehend how the general
+    improvement of human concerns implies the enlargement of their own
+    advantages.--E.
+
+    [108] The English settled here in the year 17O2, when the factory of
+    Chusan, on the coast of China, was broken up, and brought with them
+    some Macassar soldiers, who were hired to assist in building a fort;
+    but the president not fulfilling his engagement with them, they
+    watched an opportunity, and one night murdered all the English in the
+    fort. Those without the fort hearing a noise, took the alarm, and ran
+    to their boats, very narrowly escaping with their lives, but not
+    without much fatigue, hunger, and thirst, to the Johore dominions,
+    where they were treated with great humanity. Some of these afterward
+    went to form a settlement at Benjar-Massean, on the island of Borneo.-
+    -_East India Directory_, p. 36.
+
+[109] Mr Bingley informs us, that buffaloes have been introduced into some
+    of the countries of Europe, where they are now perfectly naturalized.
+    Thus in Italy they are said to constitute an essential part both of
+    the riches and the food of the poor. So far as the writer knows, they
+    have not yet been brought into England, and, indeed, notwithstanding
+    the high opinion entertained of their good qualities, he thinks it
+    doubtful if they would prove any acquisition to it.--E.
+
+[110] Neptune Oriental.
+
+[111] Vid. Dampier, vol. i. p. 392.
+
+[112] Dampier, vol. i. p. 90.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION XI.
+
+
+Departure from Pulo Condore.--Passs the Straits of Banca.--View of the
+Island of Sumatra.--Straits of Sunda.--Occurrences there.--Description of
+the Island of Cracatoa.--Prince's Island.--Effects of the Climate of
+Java.--Run to the Cape of Good Hope,--Transactions there.--Description of
+False Bay.--Passage to the Orkneys.--General Reflections.
+
+
+On the 28th day of January, 1780, we unmoored; and, as soon as we were
+clear of the harbour, steered S.S.W. for Pulo Timoan. On the 30th, at noon,
+the latitude by observation, being 5 deg. 0' N., and longitude 104 deg. 45' E., we
+altered our course to S. 3/4 W., having a moderate breeze from the N.E.,
+accompanied by fair weather. At two in the morning of the 31st, we had
+soundings of forty-five fathoms, over a bottom of fine white sand; at which
+time our latitude was 4 deg. 4' N., longitude 104 deg. 29' E., and the variation of
+the compass 0 deg. 31' E.
+
+At one in the afternoon, we saw Pulo Timoan; and, at three, it bore S.S.W.
+3/4 W., distant ten miles. This island is high and woody, and has several
+small ones lying off to the westward. At five, Pulo Puissang was seen
+bearing S. by E. 3/4 E.; and, at nine, the weather being thick and hazy,
+and having out-run our reckoning from the effect of some current, we were
+close upon Pulo Aor, in latitude 2 deg. 46' N., longitude 104 deg. 37' E., before
+we were well aware of it, which obliged us to haul the wind to the E.S.E.
+We kept this course till midnight, and then bore away S.S.E. for the Strait
+of Banca.
+
+On the 1st of February, at noon, our latitude by observation was 1 deg. 20' N.,
+and the longitude, deduced from a great number of lunar observations taken
+in the course of the preceding twelve hours, 105 deg. E. At the same time, the
+longitude, by Mr Bayley's time-keeper corrected, was 105 deg. 15' E. We now
+steered S. by E.; and, at sun-set, having fine clear weather, saw Pulo
+Panjung; the body of the island bearing W.N.W., and the small islands,
+lying on the S.E. of it, W. 1/2 S., seven leagues distant. Our latitude, at
+this time, was 0 deg. 53' N.
+
+On the 2d, at eight in the morning, we tried for soundings, continuing to
+do the same every hour, till we passed the Strait of Sunda, and found the
+bottom with twenty-three fathoms of line. At noon, being in latitude, by
+observation, 0 deg. 22' S., longitude 105 deg. 14' E., and our soundings twenty
+fathoms, we came in sight of the little islands called Dominis, which lie
+off the eastern part of Lingen; and which bore from N. 62 deg. W. to N. 80 deg. W.,
+five leagues distant. At this time we passed a great deal of wood drifting
+on the sea; and, at one o'clock, we saw Pulo Taya, bearing S.W. by W.,
+distant seven leagues. It is a small high island, with two round peaks, and
+two detached rocks lying off to the northward. When abreast of this island,
+we had soundings of fifteen fathoms. During this and the preceding day, we
+saw great quantities of a reddish-coloured scum or spawn, floating on the
+water, in a southerly direction.
+
+At day-light, on the 3d, we came in sight of the Three Islands; and, soon
+after, of Monopin Hill, on the island of Banca. At noon, this hill, which
+forms the N.E. point of the entrance of the Straits, bore S.E. 1/2 S.
+distant six leagues; our latitude, by observation, being 1 deg. 48' S., and
+longitude 105 deg. 3' E., the soundings seventeen fathoms, and no perceivable
+variation in the compass.
+
+Having got to the westward of the shoal, called Frederick Endric, at half-
+past two we entered the Straits, and bore away to the southward; and, in
+the afternoon, Monopin Hill bearing due E., we determined its latitude to
+be 2 deg. 3' S., the same as in Mons. D'Apres' map, and its longitude 105 deg. 18'
+E. At nine, a boat came off from the Banca shore, and having rowed round
+the ships, went away again. We hailed her in the Malaye tongue to come on
+board, but received no answer. At midnight, finding a strong tide against
+us, we anchored in twelve fathoms, Monopin Hill bearing N. 29 deg. W.
+
+On the 4th, in the morning, after experiencing some difficulty in weighing
+our anchors, owing to the stiff tenacious quality of the ground, we
+proceeded with the tide down the Straits; the little wind we had from the
+northward dying away as the day advanced. At noon, there being a perfect
+calm, and the tide making against us, we dropt our anchor in thirteen
+fathoms water, about three miles from what is called the Third Point, on
+the Sumatra shore, Monopin Hill bearing N. 54 deg. W. The latitude, by
+observation, was 2 deg. 22' S., longitude 105 deg. 38' E. At three in the afternoon
+we weighed, and stood on through the Straits with a light breeze; and at
+eight, were abreast of the Second Point, and passed it within two miles, in
+seventeen fathoms water; a sufficient proof that this Point may be bordered
+upon with safety. At midnight, we again came to anchor, on account of the
+tide, in thirteen fathoms, Mount Permissang, on the island of Banca,
+bearing N. 7 deg. E, and the First Point S. 54 deg. E., distant about three
+leagues.
+
+In the morning of the 5th, we weighed, and kept on to the S E; and at ten,
+passed a small shoal, lying in a line with Lusepara and the First Point, at
+the distance of five miles from the latter. At noon, the island of Lusepara
+bearing S., 57 deg. 1/2 E., four miles distant, we determined its latitude to
+be 3 deg. 10' 1/2 S., and its longitude 106" 15' E. The difference of longitude
+between the island Lusepara, which lies in the S. entrance of the Strait of
+Banca and Monopin Hill, which forms one side of the entrance from the N.,
+we found to be 55', which is only two miles less than what is given in
+D'Apres' chart.
+
+In passing this Strait, the coast of Sumatra may be approached somewhat
+closer than that of Banca. At the distance of two or three miles from the
+shore, there are ten, eleven, twelve, or thirteen fathoms, free from rocks
+or shoals; however the lead is the surest guide. The country is covered
+with wood down to the water's edge, and the shores are so low, that the sea
+overflows the land, and washes the trunks of the trees. To this flat and
+marshy situation of the shore, we may attribute those thick fogs and
+vapours, which we perceived every morning, not without dread and horror,
+hanging over the island, till they were dispersed by the rays of the sun.
+The shores of Banca are much bolder, and the country inland rises to a
+moderate height, and appears to be well wooded throughout. We often saw
+fires on this island during the night-time; but none on the opposite shore.
+The tide runs through the Strait at the rate of between two and three knots
+an hour.
+
+In the morning of the 6th, we passed to the westward of Lusepara, at the
+distance of four or five miles; generally carrying soundings of five or six
+fathoms water, and never less than four. We afterward steered S. by E.; and
+having brought Lusepara to bear due N., and deepened our water to seven
+fathoms, we altered our course to S. by W., keeping the lead going, and
+hauling out a little, whenever we shoaled our water. The soundings on the
+Sumatra side we still found to be regular, and gradually shoaling as we
+approached the shore. At five in the afternoon we saw the Two Sisters,
+bearing S. by W. 1/2 W.; and at seven, we came to an anchor in ten fathoms,
+about eight miles to the N. of the islands. The weather was close and
+sultry, with, light winds, generally from the N.W.; but sometimes varying
+round as far as the N.E.; and, during the night, we observed much lightning
+over Sumatra.
+
+We weighed the next morning at five, and at eight were close in with the
+Sisters. These are two very small islands, well covered with wood, lying in
+latitude 5 deg. 0' 1/2 S., longitude 106 deg. 12' E., nearly N. and S. from each
+other, and surrounded by a reef of coral rocks; the whole circumference of
+which is about four or five miles. At noon we got sight of the island of
+Java to the southward; the N.W. extremity of which (Cape St Nicholas) bore
+S.; North Island on Sumatra shore, S., 27 deg. W., and the Sisters N., 27 deg. E.,
+distant four leagues; our latitude was 5 deg. 21' S., longitude 105 deg. 57' E.
+
+At four in the afternoon we saw two sail in the Strait of Sunda; one lying
+at anchor near the Mid-channel Island, the other nearer the Java shore. Not
+knowing to what nation they might belong, we cleared our ships for action;
+and at six came to an anchor in twenty-five fathoms, four miles E. by S.
+from North Island. Here we lay all night, and had very heavy thunder and
+lightning to the N.W.; from which quarter the wind blew in light breezes,
+accompanied with hard rain.
+
+At eight o'clock the next morning we weighed, and proceeded through the
+Strait, the tide setting to the southward, as it had done all night; but
+about ten, the breeze failing, we came to again in thirty-five fathoms; a
+high, island, or rather rock, called the Grand Toque, bearing S. by E. We
+were at this time not more than two miles from the ships, which now
+hoisting Dutch colours, Captain Gore sent a boat on board for intelligence.
+The rain still continued, with thunder and lightning.
+
+Early in the afternoon the boat returned, with an account that the large
+ship was a Dutch East Indiaman, bound for Europe; and the other a packet
+from Batavia, with orders for the several ships lying in the Strait. It is
+the custom for the Dutch ships, as soon as their lading is nearly
+completed, to leave Batavia on account of its extreme unwholesomeness, and
+proceed to some of the more healthy islands in the Strait, where they wait
+for the remainder of their cargo and their dispatches. Notwithstanding this
+precaution, the Indiaman had lost, since her departure from Batavia, four
+men, and had as many more whose recovery was despaired of. She had lain
+here a fortnight, and was now about to proceed to Cracatoa, having just
+received final orders by the packet.
+
+At seven in the morning of the 9th we weighed, and stood on through the
+Strait to the S.W., keeping pretty close in with the islands on the Sumatra
+shore, in order to avoid a rock near Mid-channel Island, which lay on our
+left. At half after ten, I received orders from Captain Gore to make sail
+toward a Dutch ship, which now hove in sight to the southward, and which we
+supposed to be from Europe; and, according to the nature of the
+intelligence we could procure from her, either to join him at Cracatoa,
+where he intended to stop, for the purpose of supplying the ships with
+arrack, or to proceed to the S.E. end of Prince's Island, and there take in
+our water and wait for him.
+
+I accordingly bore down toward the Dutch ship, which, soon after, came to
+an anchor to the eastward; when the wind slackening, and the current still
+setting very strong through the Strait to the S.W., we found it impossible
+to fetch her, and having therefore got as near her as the tide would
+permit, we also dropt anchor. I immediately dispatched Mr Williamson in the
+cutter with orders to get on board her, if possible; but as she lay near a
+mile off, and, the tide ran with great rapidity, we soon perceived that the
+boat was dropping fast astern. We therefore made the signal to return, and
+immediately began to veer away the cable, and sent out a buoy astern, in
+order to assist him in getting on board again. Our poverty, in the article
+of cordage, was here very conspicuous; for we had not a single coil of rope
+in the store-room to fix the buoy, but were obliged to set about unreeving
+the studding-sail geer, the topsail-halliards and tackle-falls for that
+purpose; and the boat was at this time driving to the southward so fast,
+that it was not before we had veered away two cables, and almost all our
+running-rigging, that she could fetch the buoy.
+
+I was under the necessity of waiting till the strength of the tide should
+abate, which did not happen till the next morning, when Mr Williamson got
+on board the ship, and learnt that she had been seven months from Europe,
+and three from the Cape of Good Hope; that before she sailed, France and
+Spain had declared war against Great Britain; and that she left Sir Edward
+Hughes, with a squadron of men of war, and a fleet of East India ships, at
+the Cape. Mr Williamson having at the same time been informed, that the
+water at Cracatoa was very good, and always preferred by the Dutch ships to
+that of Prince's Island, I resolved to rejoin the Resolution at the former
+place; and a fair breeze springing up, we weighed and stood over toward the
+island, where we soon after saw her at anchor; but the wind falling, and
+the tide setting strong against us, I was obliged to drop anchor, at the
+distance of about five miles from the Resolution, and immediately sent a
+boat on board, to acquaint Captain Gore with the intelligence we had
+received.
+
+As soon as the Resolution saw us preparing to come to, she fired her guns,
+and hoisted an English jack at the ensign staff, the signal at sea to lead
+a-head. This we afterward understood was intended to prevent our anchoring,
+on account of the foul ground, which the maps she had on board placed here.
+However, as we found none, having a muddy bottom, and good holding ground,
+in sixty fathoms water, we kept fast till the return of the boat, which
+brought orders to proceed the next morning to Prince's Island. We were at
+this time two miles distant from the shore; the Peak of Cracatoa bore N.W.
+by N.; Bantam Point E.N.E. 1/2 E.; Prince's Island S.W. by W.
+
+The island of Cracatoa is the southernmost of a group situated in the
+entrance of the Strait of Sunda. It has a high peaked hill on the S.
+end,[113] which lies in the latitude 6 deg. 9' S., and longitude 105 deg. 15' E.;
+the whole circuit of the island is not more than three leagues. Off the
+N.E. end lies a small island, which forms the road where the Resolution
+anchored; and within a reef that runs off the S. end of the latter, there
+is good shelter against all northerly winds, with eighteen fathoms water
+near the reef, and twenty-seven in the mid-channel. To the N.W. there is a
+narrow pass for boats between the two islands.
+
+The shore, which forms the western side of the road, is in a N.W.
+direction, and has a bank of coral stretching into the sea, about one-third
+of a cable's length, which makes the landing difficult for boats, except at
+high water; but the anchoring-ground is very good, and free from rocks. The
+place where the Resolution watered is a small spring, situated abreast of
+the S. end of the small island, at a short distance from the water-side. A
+little to the southward there is a very hot spring, which is used by the
+natives as a bath. Whilst we were lying off the S. end of this island, we
+sent a boat with the master, on shore, to look for water; but, after having
+landed with some difficulty, he returned unsuccessful.
+
+Cracatoa is esteemed very healthy, in comparison of the neighbouring
+countries. It consists of high land, rising gradually on all sides from the
+sea; and the whole is covered with trees, except a few spots which the
+natives have cleared for rice-fields. The number of people on the island is
+very inconsiderable. Their chief, as are those of all the other islands in
+the Strait, is subject to the king of Bantam. The coral reefs afford plenty
+of small turtles, but other refreshments are very scarce, and sold at an
+enormous price.
+
+
+Latitude of the road where the Resolution
+  anchored                                8 deg. 6' south.
+Longitude, by Mr Bayley's timekeeper    104 48  east.
+Ditto,  by observation                  105 36  east.
+Dip of the south end of the magnetic
+  needle                                 26  3
+Variation of the compass                  1  0  west.
+
+
+On the full and change days, it is high-water at 7h in the morning. The
+water rises three feet two inches perpendicular.
+
+At eight o'clock in the evening, it began to blow afresh from the westward,
+with violent thunder, lightning, and rain; and at three the next morning,
+we weighed and stood over for Prince's Island, but the westerly wind dying
+away, was succeeded by a breeze from the S.E., and at the same time a
+strong tide setting to the S.W., prevented our fetching the island, and
+obliged us, at two in the afternoon, to drop anchor in sixty-five fathoms,
+over a muddy bottom, at three leagues distance from it; the high hill
+bearing S.W. by S., and the peak on Cracatoa N. by E. We had light airs and
+calms till six next morning, when we weighed and made sail, having, in our
+endeavours to heave the anchor out of the ground, twice broken the old
+messenger, and afterwards a new one, cut out of our best hawser. This,
+however, was entirely owing to the wretched state of our cordage; as the
+strain was not very considerable, and we had besides assisted the cable in
+coming in, by clapping the cat-tackle on it. The wind continuing fair, at
+noon we came to an anchor off the S.E. end of Prince's Island, in twenty-
+six fathoms, over a sandy bottom; the east end of the island bearing
+N.N.E., the southernmost point in sight S.W. by S., the high peak N.W. 1/2
+W., distant from the nearest shore half a mile.
+
+As soon as we had come to anchor, Lieutenant Lannyon, who had been here
+before with Captain Cook, in the year 1770, was sent, along with the
+master, to look for the watering-place. The brook from which, according to
+the best of his recollection, the Endeavour had been supplied, was found
+quite salt. Further inland, they saw a dry bed, where the water seemed to
+have lodged in rainy seasons; and, about a cable's length below, another
+run, supplied from an extensive pool, the bottom of which, as well, as the
+surface, was covered with dead leaves. This, though a little brackish,
+being much preferable to the other, we began watering here early the next
+morning, and finished the same day.
+
+The natives, who came to us soon after we anchored, brought a plentiful
+supply of large fowls, and some turtles; but the last were, for the most
+part, very small. In the course of the night we had heavy rain; and on the
+14th, at daylight, we saw the Resolution to the northward, standing toward
+the island; and at two in the afternoon, she dropped anchor close to us. In
+the course of the day we heeled the ship, and scrubbed and hogged her
+bottom, which was very foul; and got ready for sea.
+
+The next day, Captain Gore not having completed his stock of water at
+Cracatoa, sent his men on shore, who now found the brook that was first
+mentioned rendered perfectly sweet by the rain, and flowing in great
+abundance. This being too valuable a treasure to be neglected, I gave
+orders, that the casks we had filled before should be started, and
+replenished with the fresh water, which was accordingly done before noon
+the next day; and in the evening we cleared the decks, and both ships were
+ready for sea.
+
+In the forenoon of the 18th we had heavy rains and variable winds, which
+prevented our getting under way till two in the afternoon, when a light
+wind sprung up from the northward; but this soon after leaving us, we were
+obliged to drop our anchor again, at eight o'clock that night, in fifty
+fathoms water, and wait till the same hour the next morning. At that time,
+being favoured by a breeze from the N.W., we broke ground, to our
+inexpressible satisfaction, for the last time in the Strait of Sunda, and
+the next day had entirely lost sight of Prince's Island,
+
+This island having been already described by Captain Cook, in the history
+of a former voyage, I shall only add, that we were exceedingly struck with
+the great general resemblance of the natives, both in figure, colour,
+manners, and even language, to the nations we had been so much conversant
+with in the South Seas. The effects of the Javanese climate, and I did not
+escape without my full share of it, made me incapable of pursuing the
+comparison so minutely as I could have wished.
+
+The country abounds with wood to such a degree, that, notwithstanding the
+quantity cut down every year by the ships which put into the road, there is
+no appearance of its diminution. We were well supplied with small turtle,
+and fowls of a moderate size; the last were sold at the rate of ten for a
+Spanish dollar. The natives also brought us many hog-deer, and a prodigious
+number of monkeys, to our great annoyance, as most of our sailors provided
+themselves with one, if not two, of these troublesome animals.
+
+As we should have met with some difficulty in finding the watering-place,
+if Mr Lannyon had not been with us, it may be worth while, for the use of
+future navigators, to describe its situation more particularly. The peaked
+hill on the island bears from it N.W. by N.; a remarkable tree, growing
+upon a coral reef, and quite detached from the neighbouring shrubs, stands
+just to the northward; and close by it there is a small plot of reedy
+grass, the only piece of the kind that can be seen hereabout. These marks
+will shew the place where the pool empties itself into the sea; but the
+water here is generally salt, as well as that which is in the pool. The
+casks must therefore be filled about fifty yards higher up; where, in dry
+seasons, the fresh water that comes down from the hills is lost among the
+leaves, and must be searched for by clearing them away.
+
+
+The latitude of the anchoring-place
+  at Prince's Island was               6 deg. 36' 15" south.
+Longitude                            105  17  30  east.
+Dip of the south pole of the magnetic
+  needle                              28  15   0
+Variation of the compass               0  54   0  west.
+Mean of the thermometer               83  1/2
+
+
+From the time of our entering the Strait of Banca, we began to experience
+the powerful effects of this pestilential climate. Two of our people fell
+dangerously ill of malignant putrid fevers; which, however, we prevented
+from spreading, by putting the patients apart from the rest in the most
+airy births. Many were attacked with teazing coughs; others complained of
+violent pains in the head; and even the healthiest among us felt a
+sensation of suffocating heat, attended by an insufferable languor, and a
+total loss of appetite. But though our situation was for a time thus uneasy
+and alarming, we had at last the singular satisfaction of escaping from
+these fatal seas, without the loss of a single life; A circumstance which
+was probably owing in part to the vigorous health of the crews, when we
+first arrived here, as well as to the strict attention, now become habitual
+in our men, to the salutary regulations introduced amongst us by Captain
+Cook.
+
+On our leaving Prince's Island, and during the whole time of our run from
+thence to the Cape of Good Hope, the crew of the Resolution was in a much
+more sickly state than that of the Discovery; for though many of us
+continued for some time complaining of the effects of the noxious climate
+we had left, yet happily we all recovered from them. Of the two who had
+been ill of fevers, one, after being seized with violent convulsions, on
+the 12th of February, which made us despair of his life, was relieved by
+the application of blisters, and was soon after out of danger. The other
+recovered, but more slowly. On board the Resolution, besides the obstinate
+coughs and fevers under which they very generally laboured, a great many
+were afflicted with fluxes, the number of whom, contrary to our
+expectations, continued increasmg till our arrival at the Cape.
+
+Captain Gore attributed this difference in part, and probably with some
+reason, to the Discovery having her fire-place between decks; the heat and
+smoke of which, he conceived, might help to mitigate the bad effects of the
+damp night air. But I am rather inclined to believe, that we escaped the
+flux by the precautions that were taken to prevent our catching it from
+others. For if some kinds of fluxes be, as I apprehend there is no doubt
+they are, contagious, it is not improbable, that the Resolution caught this
+disorder from the Dutch ships at Cracatoa. In order to avoid this danger,
+when Mr Williamson was sent to the Indiaman in the entrance of the Strait
+of Sunda, he had the strictest orders not to suffer any of our people, on
+any account whatever, to go on board; and whenever we had afterward
+occasion to have any communication with the Resolution, the same caution
+was constantly observed.
+
+We were no sooner clear of Prince's Island, than we had a gentle breeze
+from the W.N.W.; but this did not last long; for the following day the wind
+became again variable, and continued so till the noon of the 25th, when it
+grew squally, and blew fresh from the north.
+
+On the 22d at noon, being in latitude 10 deg. 28' S., and longitude 104 deg. 14',
+we saw great quantities of boobies, and other fowls, that seldom go far
+from land; from which we conjectured, that we were near some small unknown
+island.
+
+In the evening of the 25th, the wind changed suddenly to the southward,
+accompanied with heavy rains, and began to blow with great violence. During
+the night, almost every sail we had bent gave way, and most of them were
+split to rags; our rigging also suffered materially, and we were, the next
+day, obliged to bend our last suit of sails, and to knot and splice the
+rigging, our cordage being all expended. This sudden storm, we attributed
+to the change from the monsoon to the regular trade-wind; our latitude was
+about 13 deg. 10' S., and we had made by our reckoning about 4-1/2 deg. of
+longitude west from Java head.
+
+From the 26th of this month to the 28th of March, we had a regular trade-
+wind from the S.E. to E. by S., with fine weather; and being in an old
+beaten track, met no occurrence that deserved the smallest notice.
+
+In the morning of the 28th of March, being in latitude 31 deg. 42' S., and
+longitude 35 deg. 26' E., the trade-wind left us in a violent thunder-storm.
+From this time to the 3d of April, when our latitude was 35 deg. 1' S., and
+longitude 26 deg. 3' E., the winds were moderate, and generally from the south
+quarter. A fresh breeze then sprung up from the eastward, which continued
+till the afternoon of the 4th; after which we had a calm that lasted the
+two following days.
+
+It had hitherto been Captain Gore's intention to proceed directly to St
+Helena, without stopping at the Cape; but the rudder of the Resolution
+having been, for some time, complaining, and, on being examined, reported
+to be in a dangerous state, he resolved to steer immediately for the Cape,
+as the most eligible place, both for the recovery of his sick, and for
+procuring a new main-piece to the rudder.
+
+From the 21st of March, when we were in latitude 27 deg. 22' S., longitude 52 deg.
+25' E., to the 5th of April, when we had got into latitude 36 deg. 12' S.,
+longitude 22 deg. 7' E., we were strongly affected by the currents, which set
+to the S.S.W., and S.W. by W., sometimes at the rate of eighty knots a day.
+On the 6th, having got under the lee of the African coast, we lost them
+entirely.
+
+In the morning of the 6th, a sail was seen to the S.W. standing toward us;
+and, as the wind soon after rose from the same quarter, we cleared our
+ships for action. We now discovered, from the mast-head, five sail more on
+our lee-bow, standing to the eastward; but the weather coming on hazy, we
+lost sight of them all in an hour's time. Our latitude at noon was 35 deg. 49'
+S., longitude 21 deg. 32' E. At seven o'clock the next morning (the 7th), we
+made the land to the northward at a considerable distance.
+
+On the 8th, the weather was squally, and blew fresh from the N.W.; the
+following day it settled to the W., and we passed pretty close to the sail
+seen on the 6th, but did not hail her. She was clumsy in figure, and, to
+appearance, unskilfully managed; yet she outsailed us exceedingly. The
+colours which she hoisted were different from any we had seen; some
+supposed them to be Portugueze, others Imperial.
+
+At day-light, the next morning, the land again appeared to the N.N.W.; and
+in the forenoon, a snow was seen bearing down to us, which proved to be an
+English East India packet, that had left Table Bay three days before, and
+was cruising with orders for the China fleet, and other India ships. She
+told us, that, about three weeks before, Mons. Trongoller's squadron,
+consisting of six ships, had sailed from the Cape, and was gone to cruise
+off St Helena, for our East India fleet. This intelligence made us
+conjecture, that the five sail we had seen standing to the eastward must
+have been the French squadron, who, in that case, had given over their
+cruise, and were probably proceeding to the Mauritius. Having informed the
+packet of our conjectures, and also of the time we understood the China
+ships were to sail from Canton, we left them, and proceeded toward the
+Cape.
+
+In the evening of the 10th, the Gunner's Quoin bore N. by E., and False
+Cape, E.N.E.; but the wind being at S.W., and variable, prevented our
+getting into False Bay, till the evening of the 12th, when we dropt anchor
+abreast of Simon's Bay. We found a strong current setting to the westward,
+round the Cape, which, for some time, we could but just stem, with a breeze
+that would have carried us four knots an hour. The next morning we stood
+into Simon's Bay; and at eight came to anchor, and moored a cable each way;
+the best bower to the E.S.E., and small bower, W.N.W.; the S.E. point of
+the bay bearing S. by E., Table Mountain, N.E. 1/2 N.; distant from the
+nearest shore one-third of a mile. We found lying here, the Nassau and
+Southampton East-Indiamen, waiting for convoy for Europe. The Resolution
+saluted the fort with eleven guns, and the same number was returned.
+
+Mr Brandt, the governor of this place, came to visit us, as soon as we had
+anchored. This gentleman had conceived a great affection for Captain Cook,
+who had been his constant guest, the many times he had visited the Cape;
+and though he had received the news of his melancholy fate some time
+before, he was exceedingly affected at the sight of our ships returning
+without their old commander. He appeared much surprised to see our crew in
+so stout and healthy a condition, as the Dutch ship that had left Macao, on
+our arrival there, and had touched at the Cape some time before, reported,
+that we were in a most wretched state, having only fourteen hands left on
+board the Resolution, and seven on board the Discovery. It is not easy to
+conceive the motive these people could have had for propagating so wanton
+and malicious a falsehood.
+
+On the 15th, I accompanied Captain Gore to Cape Town; and, the next
+morning, we waited on Baron Plettenberg, the governor, by whom we were
+received with every possible attention and civility. He had also conceived
+a great personal affection for Captain Cook, as well as the highest
+admiration of his character, and heard the recital of his misfortune, with
+many expressions of unaffected sorrow. In one of the principal apartments
+of the governor's house, he shewed us two pictures, of Van Trump and de
+Ruyter, with a vacant space left between them, which he said he meant to
+fill up with the portrait of Captain Cook; and, for that purpose, he
+requested our assistance when we should arrive in England, in purchasing
+one for him, at any price.
+
+We were afterward informed by the governor, that all the powers at this
+time at war with England had given orders to their cruisers to let us pass
+unmolested. This, as far as related to the French, we had sufficient reason
+to think true; as Mr Brandt had already delivered to Captain Gore, a letter
+from Mr Stephens, inclosing a copy of Mons. de Sartine's orders, taken on
+board the Licorne. With respect to the Americans, the matter still rested
+on report; but Baron Plettenberg assured us, that he had been expressly
+told, by the commander of a Spanish ship, which had touched at the Cape,
+that he, and all the officers of his nation, had received orders to the
+same effect. These assurances confirmed Captain Gore in the resolution he
+had taken of maintaining, on his part, a neutral conduct; and accordingly,
+when on the arrival of the Sybil, to convoy the India ships home, it was
+proposed to him to accompany them on their passage, he thought proper to
+decline an offer, the acceptance of which might, in case we had fallen in
+with any of the enemy's ships, have brought him into a very difficult and
+embarrassing situation.
+
+During our stay at the Cape, we met with every proof of the most friendly
+disposition toward us, both in the governor and principal persons of the
+place, as well Africans as Europeans. At our first arrival, Colonel Gordon,
+the commander of the Dutch forces, with whom I had the happiness of being
+on a footing of intimacy and friendship, was absent on a journey into the
+interior parts of Africa, but returned before our departure. He had, on
+this occasion, penetrated farther up the country than any other traveller
+had done before him, and made great additions to the valuable collection of
+natural curiosities with which he has enriched the museum of the Prince of
+Orange. Indeed, a long residence at the Cape, and the powerful assistance
+he has derived from his rank and situation there, joined to an active and
+indefatigable spirit, and an eager thirst after knowledge, have enabled him
+to acquire a more intimate and perfect knowledge of this part of Africa,
+than could have fallen to the lot of any other person; and it is with great
+pleasure I can congratulate the public on the information I have received
+of his intentions to give the world, from his own-hand, a history of his
+travels.[114]
+
+False Bay, situated to the eastward of the Cape of Good Hope, is frequented
+by shipping during the prevalence of the N.W. winds, which begin to blow in
+May, and make it dangerous to lie in Table Bay. It is terminated on the
+west by the Cape of Good Hope, and on the eastward by False Cape.
+
+The entrance of the bay is six leagues wide, the two capes bearing from
+each other due east and west. About eleven miles from the Cape of Good
+Hope, on the west side, is situated Simon's Bay, the only convenient
+station for ships to lie in; for although the road without it affords good
+anchorage, it is too open, and but ill circumstanced for procuring
+necessaries, the town being small, and supplied with provisions from Cape
+Town, which is about twenty-four miles distant. To the N.N.E. of Simon's
+Bay, there are several others, from which it may be easily distinguished,
+by a remarkable sandy way to the northward of the town, which makes a
+striking object. In steering for the harbour, along the west shore, there
+is a small flat rock, called Noah's Ark, and about a mile to the north-east
+of it, several others, called the Roman Rocks. These lie one mile and a
+half from the anchoring-place; and either between them, or to the northward
+of the Roman Rocks, there is a safe passage into the bay. When the north-
+west gales are set in, the following bearings will direct the mariner to a
+safe and commodious berth: Noah's Ark, S. 51 deg. E., and the centre of the
+hospital, S. 53 deg. W., in seven fathoms. But if the south-east winds have not
+done blowing, it is better to stay further out in eight or nine fathoms.
+The bottom is sandy, and the anchors settle considerably before they get
+hold. All the north part of the bay is low sandy land, but the east side is
+very high. About six miles east of Noah's Ark lies Seal Island, the south
+part of which is said to be dangerous, and not to be approached, with
+safety, nearer than in twenty-two fathoms. Off the Cape of Good Hope are
+many sunk rocks, some of which appear at low water; and others have
+breakers constantly on them.
+
+
+The latitude of the anchoring-place in Simon's
+  Bay, by observation                            34 deg.20'S.
+The longitude                                    18 29 E.
+Dip of the south end of the magnetic needle      46 47
+Variation of the compass                         22 16 W.
+
+
+On the full and change days, it was high-water at 5^h 55^m apparent time;
+the tide rose and fell five feet five inches; at the neap tides, it rose
+four feet one inch.
+
+From the observations taken by Mr Bayley and myself, on the 11th of this
+month, when the Cape of Good Hope bore due west, we found its latitude to
+be 34 deg. 23' S., which is 4' to the northward of its position, as determined
+by the Abbe de la Caille.
+
+Having completed our victualling, and furnished ourselves with the
+necessary supply of naval stores, we sailed out of the bay on the 9th of
+May, and on the 14th, we got into the south-east trade-wind, and steered to
+the westward of the islands of St Helena and Ascension. On the 31st, being
+in latitude 12 deg. 48' S., longitude 15 deg. 40' W., the magnetic needle was found
+to have no dip.
+
+On the 12th of June, we passed the equator for the fourth time during this
+voyage, in longitude 26 deg. 16' W. We now began to perceive the effects of a
+current setting N. by E., half a knot an hour. It continued in this
+direction till the middle of July, when it began to set a little to the
+southward of the west.
+
+On the 12th of August, we made the western coast of Ireland, and after a
+fruitless attempt to get into Port Galway, from whence it was Captain
+Gore's intentions to have sent the journals and maps of our voyage to
+London, we were obliged, by strong southerly winds, to steer to the
+northward. Our next object was to put into Lough Swilly; but the wind
+continuing in the same quarter, we stood on to the northward of Lewis
+Island; and on the 22d of August, at eleven in the morning, both ships came
+to an anchor at Stromness. From hence, I was dispatched by Captain Gore, to
+acquaint the Board of Admiralty with our arrival; and on the 4th day of
+October the ships arrived safe at the Nore, after an absence of four years,
+two months, and twenty-two days.
+
+On quitting the Discovery at Stromness, I had the satisfaction of leaving
+the whole crew in perfect health; and at the same time, the number of
+convalescents on board the Resolution did not exceed two or three, of whom
+only one was incapable of service. In the course of our voyage, the
+Resolution lost but five men by sickness, three of whom were in a
+precarious state of health at our departure from England; the Discovery did
+not lose a man. An unremitting attention to the regulations established by
+Captain Cook, with which the world is already acquainted, may be justly
+considered as the principal cause, under the blessing of Divine Providence,
+of this singular success. But the baneful effects of salt provisions might
+perhaps, in the end, have been felt, notwithstanding these salutary
+precautions, if we had not assisted them, by availing ourselves of every
+substitute, our situation at various times afforded. These frequently
+consisting of articles, which our people had not been used to consider as
+food for men, and being sometimes exceedingly nauseous, it required the
+joint aid of persuasion, authority, and example, to conquer their
+prejudices and disgusts.
+
+The preventives we principally relied on were sour krout and portable soup.
+As to the antiscorbutic remedies, with which we were amply supplied, we had
+no opportunity of trying their effects, as there did not appear the
+slightest symptoms of the scurvy, in either ship, during the whole voyage.
+Our malt and hops had also been kept as a resource, in case of actual
+sickness; and on examination at the Cape of Good Hope, were found entirely
+spoiled. About the same time, were opened some casks of biscuit, flour,
+malt, pease, oatmeal, and groats, which, by way of experiment, had been put
+up in small casks, lined with tin-trail, and found all, except the pease,
+in a much better state, than could have been expected in the usual manner
+of package.
+
+I cannot neglect this opportunity of recommending to the consideration of
+government, the necessity of allowing a sufficient quantity of Peruvian
+bark, to such of his majesty's ships as may be exposed to the influence of
+unwholesome climates. It happened very fortunately in the Discovery, that
+only one of the men that had fevers in the Straits of Sunda, stood in need
+of this medicine, as he alone consumed the whole quantity usually carried
+out by surgeons, in such vessels as ours. Had more been affected in the
+same manner, they would probably all have perished, from the want of the
+only remedy capable of affording them effectual relief.
+
+Another circumstance attending this voyage, which, if we consider its
+duration, and the nature of the service in which we were engaged, will
+appear scarcely less singular than the extraordinary healthiness of the
+crews, was, that the two ships never lost sight of each other for a day
+together, except twice; which was owing, the first time, to an accident
+that happened to the Discovery off the coast of Owhyhee; and the second, to
+the fogs we met with at the entrance of Awatska Bay. A stronger proof
+cannot be given of the skill and vigilance of our subaltern officers, to
+whom this share of merit almost entirely belongs.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+VOCABULARY OF THE LANGUAGE OF NOOTKA, OR KING GEORGE'S SOUND.
+
+_April_, 1778.
+
+
+
+        _Nootka_.            English.
+
+Opulszthl,                    _The sun_.
+Onulszthl,                    _The moon_.
+Nas, _or_ eenaeehl nas,       _The sky_.
+Noohchai,                     _A mountain_, or _hill_.
+Mooksee,                      _Rocks_, or _the shore_.
+Tanass, _or_ tanas,           _A man_.
+Oonook,                       _A song_.
+Eeneek, _or_ eleek,           _Fire_.
+Nuhchee, _or_ nookchee        _The land; a country_.
+Koassama,                     _The ground_.
+Mahtai,                       _A house_.
+Neit, _or_ neet,              _A candle_, or _lamp light_.
+Neetopok,                     _The smoke of a lamp_.
+Tassyai,                      _A door_.
+Ai, _and_ aio,                _Yes_.
+Wook, _or_ Wik,               _No_.
+Wik ait,                      _None, not any_.
+Macook,                       _To barter_.
+Kaeeemai, _or_ kyomai         _Give me some more of it_.
+Kootche, _or_ kotche          _To paddle_.
+Aook, _or_ chiamis,           _To eat, to chew_.
+Topalszthl, _or_              _The sea_.
+   toopilszthl,
+Oowhabbe,                     _A paddle_.
+Shapata, _or_ shapitz,        _A canoe_.
+   _or_ chapas,
+Tawailuck,                    _White bugle beads_.
+Seekemaile,                   _Iron_, or _metal of any sort_.
+Ahkoo, _or_ ahko,             _This_.
+Kaa, _or_ kaa chelle,         _Give it me, let me look at it_,
+                                  or _examine it_?
+Wook hak                      _Will he not do it_?
+Ma, _or_ maa,                 _Take it_.
+Chakeuk,                      _A hatchet_, or _hacking tool_.
+Eetche, _or_ abeesh,          _Displeasure_.
+Hahoome, _or_ haooma,         _Food_.
+Takho,                        _Bad. This iron is bad_, takho seekemaile.
+Chelle,                       _I, me_.
+Kaeeo,                        _Broken_.
+Alle, _or_ alla,              (Speaking to one) _Friend; hark ye_.
+Klao appe, _or_ klao,         _Keep it; I'll not have it_.
+Asko,                         _Long_, or _large_.
+Iakooeshmaish,                _Clothing in general_.
+Tahquoe, _or_ toohquoe,       _A metal button_, or _ear-ring_.
+Wae,                          (Calling to one, perhaps) _you_!
+Weekeetateesh,                _Sparkling sand, which they
+                                  sprinkle on their faces_.
+Chauk,                        _Water_.
+Pacheetl, _or_ pachatl,       _To give; give me_.
+Haweelsth, _or_ hawalth,      _Friendship; friend_.
+Kleeseetl,                    _To paint_, or _mark with a pencil_.
+Abeetzle,                     _To go away_, or _depart_.
+Sheesookto,                   _To remain_, or _abide_.
+Seeaik,                       _A stone weapon, with a square point_.
+Suhyaik,                      _A spear, pointed with bone_.
+Taak,                         _The wood of the depending pine_.
+Luksheer, _or_ luksheetl,     _To drink_.
+Soochis,                      _A tree, a wood_.
+Haieeaipt,                    _A broad leaf, shrub_, or _underwood_.
+Tohumbeet,                    _Variegated pine; silver pine_.
+Atheu,                        _The depending pine_; or _cypress_.
+Koeeklipt,                    _The Canadian pine_.
+Cho,                          _Go_.
+Sateu,                        _A pine-top_.
+Kleeteenek,                   _The little cloak that they wear_.
+Kleethak,                     _A bear's skin_.
+Klochimme,                    _Muscles_.
+Ohkullik,                     _A wooden box they hold things in_.
+Hislaiakasl, _or_             _Coarse mats of bark_.
+   slaikalzth,
+Eesee,                        _An instrument of bone to beat bark_.
+Chapuz koole,                 _The model of a canoe_.
+Klapatuketeel,                _A bag made of mat_.
+Tahmis,                       _To spit; spittle_.
+Wasuksheet,                   _To cough_.
+Poop,                         _Common moss_.
+Okumha,                       _The wind_.
+Chutzquabeelsl,               _A bag made of seal skin_.
+Konneeemis,                   _A kind of sea weed_.
+Quaookl, _or_                 _To sit down_.
+   tookpeetl,
+Klukeeszthl, _or_             _To rise up_.
+   quoeelszlhl,
+Tsookeeats,                   _To walk_.
+Kummutchchutl,                _To run_.
+Klutsklaee,                   _To strike, or beat_.
+Teeshcheetl,                  _To throw a stone_.
+Teelszhtee,                   _To rub_, or _sharpen metal_.
+Tsook,                        _To cleave_, or _strike hard_.
+Mahkatte,                     _A small liliaceous root, which they eat_.
+Eumahtame,                    _Fur of a sea-otter_.
+Cheemaine,                    _Their largest fishing-hooks_.
+Moostatte,                    _A bow_.
+Kahsheetl,                    _Dead_.
+Kleeshsheetl,                 _To shoot with a bow_.
+Tseehattee,                   _An arrow_.
+Katshak,                      _A flaxen garment, worn as their common
+                                  dress_.
+
+Heshcheene,                   _A plain_ Venus _shell_.
+Koohminne,                    _A bag rattle_.
+Akeeuk,                       _A plain bone point for striking
+                                  seals with_.
+Kaheita,                      _A barbed bone point for ditto_.
+Cheetakulheiwha,              _Bracelets of white bugle beads_.
+Mittemulszth,                 _Thongs of skin worn about the
+                                  wrist and neck_.
+Iaiopox,                      _Pieces of copper worn in the ear_.
+Neesksheetl,                  _To sneeze_.
+Suchkas,                      _A comb_.
+Seehl,                        _Small feathers which they strew
+                                  on their heads_.
+Wamuhte,                      _Twisted thongs and sinews,
+                                  worn about their ankles_.
+Kutseeoataia,                 _Veins under the skin_.
+Tookquuk,                     _The skin_.
+Muszthsle,                    _Pain_.
+Waeetch,                      _To sleep_.
+Siksaimaha,                   _To breathe_, or _pant_.
+Tuhsheetl,                    _To weep_.
+Matskoot,                     _A fly_.
+Matook,                       _To fly_.
+Kooees; _or_                  _Snow_, or _hail_.
+   quoees,
+Aopk,                         _To whistle_.
+Asheeatksheetl,               _To yawn_.
+Elsthltleek,                  _An instrument of two sticks standing
+                                  from each other with barbs_.
+Cheeeeakis,                   _A scar of a wound_.
+Tchoo,                        _Throw it down_, or _to me_.
+Cheetkoohekai, _or_           _A wooden instrument, with many bone teeth,
+   Cheetkoaik,                    to catch small fish with_.
+Kaenne, _or_ Koenai,          _A crow; a bird_.
+Keesapa,                      _A fish; a white bream_.
+Klaamoo,                      _A bream striped with blue and gold
+                                  colours_.
+Taaweesh, _or_                _A stone-weapon_, or _tomahawk,
+   Tsuskeeah,                     with a wooden handle_.
+Kamaisthlik,                  _A kind of snare to catch fish, or other
+                                  animals with_.
+Klahma,                       _Wing feathers of a red bird_.
+Seetsaennuk,                  _Anger; scolding_.
+Heeeai, _or_ Heeeee,          _A brown streaked snake_.
+Klapissime,                   _A racoon_.
+Owatinne,                     _A white-headed eagle_.
+Kluhmiss,                     _Train oil; a bladder filled with it_.
+Oukkooma,                     _Large carved wooden-faces_.
+Kotyook, _or_ Hotyok,         _A knife_.
+See eema,                     _A fishing net_.
+Weena,                        _A stranger_.
+Quahmiss,                     _Fish-roe strewed upon pine-branches and
+                                  sea-weed_.
+Kaatl,                        _Give me_.
+Hooksquaboolsthl,             _A whale-harpoon and rope_.
+Komook,                       _Chimaera monstrosa_.
+Quotluk, _or_                 _A sea-otter's skin_.
+   Quotlukac,
+Maasenusthl,                  _An oblong wooden weapon, two feet long_.
+Hokooma,                      _A wooden mask of the human face_.
+Tooquacumilsthl,              _A seal-skin_.
+Cha,                          _Let me see it_.
+Sooma,                        _A kind of haddock, of a reddish brown
+                                  colour_.
+Aeea,                         _A sardine_.
+Koeetsak,                     _A wolf-skin dress_.
+Keepsleetokszl,               _A woollen garment_.
+Isseu,                        _Pine-bark_.
+Wanshee,                      _Wildcat skin_(lynx brunneus).
+Chastimmetz,                  _A common, and also pine-martin_.
+Ookoomillszthl,               _A little round wooden cup_.
+Koomitz,                      _A human skull_.
+Keehlwahmoot,                 _A skin-bladder used in fishing_.
+Tseeapoox,                    _A conic cap made of mat, worn on the head_.
+Summeto,                      _A squirrel; they also called a rat by this
+                                  name_.
+Maalszthl,                    _A deer's horn_.
+Jakops,                       _A man, or male_.
+Kolsheetl, _or_ Kolsheat,     _To sup with a spoon_.
+Achatla, _or_ Achaklak,       _What is your name_?
+Achatlaha,                    _What is his name_?
+Akassheha, _or_ Akassche,     _What is the name of that_?
+Haismussik,                   _A wooden sabre_.
+Maeetsalulsthl,               _A bone weapon, like the Patoo_.
+Kookelixo,                    _A fish fin; the hand_.
+Natcha,                       _A fish tail_.
+Klihkleek,                    _The hoof of an animal_.
+Klaklasm,                     _A bracelet_.
+Ko,                           _An article, to give strength of expression
+                                  to another word_.
+Nahei, _or_ Naheis,           _Friendship_.
+Teelsthoop,                   _A large cuttle fish_.
+Pachas,                       _He gave it me_.
+Quaeeaitsaak,                 _A yellow, or red fox_.
+Atchakoe,                     _A limpet_.
+Aheita,                       _A sweet fern root they eat_.
+Kishkilltup,                  _The strawberry plant_.
+Akhmupt,                      _A narrow grass that grows on the rocks_.
+Klaiwahmiss,                  _A cloud_.
+Mollsthapait,                 _A feather_.
+Taeetcha,                     _Full, satisfied with eating_.
+Kaaitz,                       _A necklace of small volute shells_.
+Tahooquossim,                 _A carved human head of wood, decorated with
+                                  hair_.
+Moowatche,                    _A caned wooden vizor, like the head of a
+                                  Quebrentahuessos_.
+Mamat,                        _A black linnet with a white bill_.
+Klaokotl,                     _Give me something_.
+Pallszthpatl,                 _Glimmer (sheet)_.
+Pineetl,                      _The name they apply to a goat; probably of
+                                  a deer_.
+Seeta,                        _The tail of an animal_.
+Seehsheetl,                   _To kill_.
+Ooolszth,                     _A sandpiper_.
+Saeemitz,                     _Chequered straw-baskets_.
+Chookwak,                     _To go up_, or _away_.
+Kloosasht,                    _Smoked herrings_.
+Keetsma,                      _Puncturation_.
+Mikeellzyth,                  _To fasten_, or _tie a thing_.
+Cheeteeakamilzsth,            _White beads_.
+Kakkumipt,                    _A sea-weed_, or _grass, on which they
+strew fish-roe_.
+Eissuk,                       _A sort of leek_; allium triquetrum.
+Kutskushilzsth,               _To tear a thing_.
+Mitzsleo,                     _A knot_.
+Mamakeeo,                     _To tie a knot_.
+Kluksilzsth,                  _To loosen_, or _untie_.
+Klakaikom,                    _The leaf of a plant_.
+Sasinne, _or_ sasin,          _A humming-bird_.
+Koohquoppa,                   _A granulated lily-root they eat_.
+Seeweebt,                     _Alder-tree_.
+Kaweebt,                      _Raspberry-bush_.
+Kleehseep,                    _The flower of a plant_.
+Klumma,                       _Large wooden images placed at one end of
+                                  their houses_.
+Aiahtoop, _or_                _A porpoise_.
+   Aiahtoopsh,
+Toshko,                       _A small brown spotted cod_.
+Aszlimupt, _or_               _Flaxen stuff, of which they make their
+   Ulszthimipt,                   garments_.
+Wakash,                       _An expression of approbation_, or
+                                  _friendship_.
+Kullekeea,                    _Troughs out of which they eat_.
+Kaots,                        _A twig-basket_.
+Sllook,                       _The roof of a house; boards_.
+Eilszthmukt,                  _Nettles_.
+Koeeklass,                    _A wooden stage_, or _frame, on which the
+                                  fish-roe is dried_.
+Matlieu,                      _A withe of bark for fastening planks_.
+Nahass,                       _A circular hole that serves as a window_.
+Neetsoanimme,                 _Large planks of which their houses are
+                                  built_.
+Chaipma,                      _Straw_.
+Haquanuk,                     _A chest, or large box_.
+Chahkots,                     _A square wooden bucket, to hold water_.
+Chahquanna,                   _A square wooden drinking-cup_.
+Klennut,                      _A wooden wedge_.
+Kolkolsainum,                 _A large chest_.
+Klieutsunnim,                 _A board to kneel on when they paddle_.
+Tseelszthook,                 _A frame of square poles_.
+Aminulszth,                   _A fish_.
+Natckkoa _and_                _The particular names of two of the
+  Matseeta,                       monstrous images called Klumma_.
+Houa,                         _To go that way_.
+Achichil,                     _What does he say_?
+Aeek,                         _The oval part of a whale dart_.
+Aptsheetl,                    _To steal_.
+Quoeeup,                      _To break_.
+Uhshsapai,                    _To pull_.
+Tseehka,                      _A general song_.
+Apte, _or_ appe,              _You_.
+Kai,                          _Thanks_
+Kotl,                         _Me; I_.
+Punihpunih,                   _A black beating-stone_.
+Nootka,                       _The name of the bay or sound_.
+
+Yatseenequoppe,
+Kakallakeeheelook,            _The names of three men_.
+Nololokum,
+
+Satsuhcheek,                  _The name of a woman_.
+
+
+       *        *       *       *       *      *
+
+
+      NAMES OF DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE BODY.
+
+Ooomitz,                      _The head_.
+Apsoop,                       _The hair of the head_.
+Uhpeukel, _or_ upuppea,       _The forehead_.
+Cheecheetsh,                  _The teeth_.
+Choop,                        _The tongue_.
+Kussee, _or_ kassee,          _The eye_.
+Neets,                        _The nose_.
+Papai,                        _The ear_.
+Aamiss,                       _The cheek_.
+Eehthlux,                     _The chin_.
+Apuxim,                       _The beard_.
+Tseekoomitz,                  _The neck_.
+Seekutz,                      _The throat_.
+Eslulszth,                    _The face_.
+Eethluxooth,                  _The lips_.
+Klooshkcoah, klah, tamai,     _The nostrils_.
+Aeetchse,                     _The eye-brows_.
+Aapso,                        _The arm_.
+Aapsoonilk,                   _The arm-pit_.
+Eneema,                       _The nipple_.
+Kooquainux, _or_              _The fingers_.
+   Kooquainuxoo,
+Chushehuh,                    _Nail of the finger_.
+Kleashklinno,                 _The thighs and leg_.
+Klahtimme,                    _The foot_.
+Alahkomeetz,                  _The thumb_.
+Kopeeak,                      _The fore finger_.
+Taeeai,                       _The middle finger_.
+Oatso, _or_ akhukluc,         _The ring finger_.
+Kasleka,                      _The little finger_.
+
+
+TABLE to shew the Affinity between the Languages spoken at Oonalashka and
+Norton Sound, and those of the Green landers and Esquimaux.
+
+
+                                          _Greenland_.
+  English.   _Oonalashka. Norton Sound. From Grants. Esquimaux_.
+_A man_       Chengan                      Angut.
+_A woman_     Anagogenach.
+_The head_    Kameak                                    Ne-aw-cock.
+_The hair_    Emelach        Nooit                      Newrock.
+_The eye-brow_ Kamlik        Kameluk                    Coup-loot.
+_The eye_     Dhac           Enga                       Ehich.
+_The nose_    Anosche        Ngha                       Cring yauk.
+_The cheek_   Oolooeik       Oollooak                   Ou-lu uck-cur.
+_The ear_     Tootoosh       Shudeka                    Se-u-teck.
+_The lip_     Adhee          Hashlaw.
+_The teeth_   Agaloo.
+_The tongue_  Agonoc.
+_The beard_   Engelagoong    Oongai.
+_The chin_    Ismaloch       Tamluk                     Taplou.
+_The neck_    Ooioc                                     Coon-e-soke.
+_The breast_  Shimsen                                   Suk-ke-uck.
+_The arm_     Toolak         Dallek                     Telluck.
+_The hand_    Kedhachoonge   Aishet                     Alguit.
+_The finger_  Atooch.
+_The nails_   Cagelch        Shetooe.
+_The thigh_   Cachemac       Kookdoshac.
+_The leg_     Ketac          Kanaiak                    Ki-naw-auk.
+_The foot_    Ooleac         Etscheak                   E-te-ket.
+_The sun_     Agadac         Maje                       Suck-ki much.
+_The moon_    Toogedha.                                 Tac-cock.
+_The sky_     Enacac.
+_A cloud_     Aiengich.
+_The wind_    Caitchee.
+_The sea_     Alaooch        Emai                       Ut-koo-tuk-
+                                                        les.
+_Water_       Tangch         Mooe.
+_Fire_        Keiganach                                 E-ko-ma.
+_Wood_        Hearach.
+_A knife_     Kamelac.
+_A house_     Oolac                        Iglo         Tope-uck.
+_A canoe_     Eakeac         Caiac         Kaiak        Kirock.
+_A paddle_    Chasec         Pangehon      Pautik       Pow.
+_Iron_        Comeleuch      Shawik.                    Shaveck.
+_A bow_       Seiech.                                   Petick sic.
+_Arrows_      Agadhok.                                  Caukjuck.
+_Darts_       Ogwalook                     Aglikak.
+_A fish-hook_ Oochtac.
+_No_          Net          Ena            Nag.
+_Yes_, or _yea_ Ah         Eh             Illisve.
+_One_         Taradac      Adowjak        Attousek      Attouset.
+_Two_         Alac         Aiba           Arlak         Mardluk.
+_Three_       Canoogn      Pingashook     Pingaguah     Pingasut.
+_Four_        Sechn        Shetamik       Sissamat      Sissamat.
+_Five_        Chang        Dallamix       Tellimat      Tellimat.
+_Six_         Atoo         In counting                  Arbanget.
+                           more than
+                           five, they
+_Seven_       Ooloo        repeat the                 / Arbanget.
+                           same words                 \ Attausek.
+                           over again.
+_Eight_       Kamching                                  Arbanget
+                                                        mardik.
+_Nine_        Seching                                   Kollin illoet.
+_Ten_         Haso                                      Kollit.
+
+
+[113] The island of Tamarin, or Sambouricon, which lies about four leagues
+    to the north of Cracatoa, may be easily mistaken for the latter,
+    having a hill of nearly the same size and form, situated also near its
+    southern extremity.
+
+[114] Query, Was this intention ever realized? The work, supposing it to
+    have been published, was never heard of or seen by the writer.--E.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX TO THE CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS.
+
+
+No. I.
+
+
+NARRATIVE OF THE HON. JOHN BYRON; BEING AN ACCOUNT OF THE SHIPWRECK OF THE
+WAGER; AND THE SUBSEQUENT ADVENTURES OF HER CREW.
+
+
+WRITTEN BY HIMSELF.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX TO THE CIRCUMNAVIGATIONS.
+
+
+No. I.
+
+
+THE NARRATIVE OF THE HON. JOHN BYRON.
+
+
+
+
+THE AUTHOR'S PREFACE.
+
+
+As the greatest pain I feel in committing the following sheets to the
+press, arises from an apprehension that many of my readers will accuse me
+of egotism, I will not incur that charge in my preface, by detaining them
+with the reasons which have induced me, at this time, to yield to the
+desire of my friends. It is equally indifferent to the public to be told
+how it happened, that nothing should have got the better of my indolence
+and reluctance to comply with the same requests, for the space of twenty
+years.
+
+I will employ these few introductory pages merely to shew what pretensions
+this work may have to the notice of the world, after those publications
+which have preceded it.
+
+It is well known that the Wager, one of Lord Anson's squadron, was cast
+away upon a desolate island in the South-seas. The subject of this book is
+a relation of the extraordinary difficulties and hardships through which,
+by the assistance of Divine Providence, a small part of her crew escaped to
+their native land; and a very small proportion of those made their way, in
+a new and unheard-of manner, over a large and desert tract of land, between
+the western mouth of Magellanic Streight and the capital of Chili; a
+country scarce to be paralleled in any part of the globe, in that it
+affords neither fruits, grain, nor even roots proper for the sustenance of
+man; and, what is still more rare, the very sea, which yields a plentiful
+support to many a barren coast, on this tempestuous and inhospitable shore
+is found to be almost as barren as the land; and it must be confessed, that
+to those who cannot interest themselves with seeing human nature labouring,
+from day to day, to preserve its existence under the continual want of such
+real necessaries, as food and shelter from the most rigorous climate, the
+following sheets will afford but little entertainment.
+
+Yet, after all, it must be allowed there can be no other way of
+ascertaining the geography and natural history of a country, which is
+altogether morass and a rock, incapable of products or culture, than by
+setting down every minute circumstance which was observed in traversing it.
+The same may be said of the inhabitants, their manners, religion, and
+language. What fruits could an European reap from a more intimate
+acquaintance with them, than what he will find in the following accidental
+observations? We saw the most unprofitable spot on the globe of the earth,
+and such it is described and ascertained to be.
+
+It is to be hoped, some little amends may be made by such an insight as is
+given into the interior part of the Country; and I find what I have put
+down has had the good fortune to be pleasing to some of my friends;
+insomuch, that the only fault I have yet had laid to my papers is, that of
+being too short in the article of the Spanish settlements. But here I must
+say, I have been dubious of the partiality of my friends; and, as I think,
+justly fearful lest the world in general, who may perhaps find compassion
+and indulgence for a protracted tale of distress, may not give the same
+allowance to a luxurious imagination triumphing in a change of fortune, and
+sudden transition from the most dismal to the gayest scenes in the
+universe, and thereby indulging an egotism equally offensive to the envious
+and censorious.
+
+I speak as briefly as possible of matters previous to our final separation
+from the rest of Lord Anson's squadron; for it is from this epocha that the
+train of our misfortunes properly commences: and though Mr Bulkeley, one of
+the warrant officers of the Wager, has, long since, published a Journal and
+Account of the return of that part of the ship's company, which, dissenting
+from Captain Cheap's propoposal of endeavouring to regain their native
+country by way of the great continent of South America, took their passage
+home in the long-boat, through the Streights of Magellan, our transactions
+during our abode on the island have been related by him in so concise a
+manner, as to leave many particulars unnoticed, and others touched so
+slightly, that they appear evidently to have been put together with the
+purpose of justifying those proceedings which could not be considered in
+any other light than that of direct mutiny. Accordingly, we find that the
+main substance of his Journal is employed in scrutinizing the conduct of
+Captain Cheap, and setting forth the conferences which passed between him
+and the seceders, relative to the way and measures they were to take for
+their return home. I have, therefore, taken some pains to review those
+early passages of the unfortunate scene I am to represent, and to enter
+into a detail, without which no sound judgment can be formed of any
+disputed point, especially when it has been carried so far as to end in
+personal resentment. When contests and dissensions shall be found to have
+gone that length, it will be obvious to every reader, why a licentious crew
+should hearken to any factious leader, rather than to the solidity of their
+captain's advice, who made it evident to every unprejudiced understanding,
+that their fairest chance for safety and a better fortune, was to proceed
+with the long-boat till they should make prize of some vessel of the enemy,
+and thereby be enabled to bring to the commodore a supply of stout fellows
+to assist in his conquests, and share in the honour and rewards.
+
+And yet it is but justice, even to this ungovernable herd, to explain, that
+though, as I have said above, they appeared in the light of mutineers, they
+were not actually such in the eye of the law; for, till a subsequent act,
+made indeed on this occasion, the pay of a ship's crew ceased immediately
+upon her wreck, and consequently the officers' authority and command.
+
+Having explained the foregoing particulars, I hope I may flatter myself,
+there are few things in the following sheets which will not be readily
+understood by the greatest part of my readers; therefore I will not detain
+them any longer.[115]
+
+
+[115] Bulkeley's narrative above referred to, and which certainly deserves
+    to be better known than it now is, will be found in this Appendix, No.
+    2. The impartial reader, it is believed, will hesitate to join with
+    Byron in opinion as to the motives which occasioned its publication;
+    nor is it unimportant for him to recollect, that Byron himself at one
+    time sanctioned the chief measures and sentiments which Bulkeley and
+    his associates adopted.--E.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+
+Account of the Wager and her Equipment.--Captain Kid's Death.--Succeeded by
+Captain Cheap.--Our Disasters commence with our Voyage.--We lose Sight of
+our Squadron in a Gale of Wind.--Dreadful Storm.--Ship strikes.
+
+
+The equipment and destination of the squadron fitted out in the year 1740,
+of which Commodore Anson had the command, being sufficiently known from the
+ample and well-penned relation of it under his direction, I shall recite no
+particulars that are to be found in that work. But it may be necessary, for
+the better understanding the disastrous fate of the Wager, the subject of
+the following sheets, to repeat the remark, that a strange infatuation
+seemed to prevail in the whole conduct of this embarkation: For though it
+was unaccountably detained till the season for its sailing was past, no
+proper use was made of that time, which should have been employed in
+providing a suitable force of sailors and soldiery; nor was there a due
+attention given to other requisites for so peculiar and extensive a
+destination.
+
+This neglect not only rendered the expedition abortive in its principal
+object, but most materially affected the condition of each particular ship,
+and none so fatally as the Wager, who being an old Indiaman, bought into
+the service upon this occasion, was now fitted out as a man of war: But
+being made to serve as a store-ship, was deeply laden with all kinds of
+careening geer, military, and other stores, for the use of the other ships;
+and what is more, crowded, with bale-goods, and incumbered with
+merchandize. A ship of this quality and condition could not be expected to
+work with that readiness and ease which was necessary for her security and
+preservation in those heavy seas which she was to encounter. Her crew
+consisted of men pressed from long voyages to be sent upon a distant and
+hazardous service; on the other hand, all her land-forces were no more than
+a poor detachment of infirm and decrepid invalids from Chelsea hospital,
+desponding under the apprehensions of a long voyage. It is not then to be
+wondered, that Captain Kid, under whose command this ship sailed out of the
+port, should in his last moments presage her ill success, though nothing
+very material happened during his command.
+
+At his death he was succeeded by Captain Cheap, who still, without any
+accident, kept company with the squadron till we had almost gained the
+southernmost mouth of Straits Le Maire; when, being the sternmost ship, we
+were, by the sudden shifting of the wind to the southward, and the turn of
+the tide, very near being wrecked upon the rocks of Staten Land; which,
+notwithstanding, having weathered, contrary to the expectation of the rest
+of the squadron, we endeavoured all in our power to make up our lost way,
+and regain our station. This we effected, and proceeded in our voyage,
+keeping company with the rest of the ships for some time, when by a great
+roll of a hollow sea we carried away our mizen-mast, all the chain-plates
+to windward being broken. Soon after, hard gales at west coming on with a
+prodigious swell, there broke a heavy sea in upon the ship, which stove our
+boats, and filled us for some time.
+
+These accidents were the more disheartening, as our carpenter was on board
+the Gloucester, and detained there by the incessant tempestuous weather,
+and a sea impracticable for boats. In a few days he returned, and supplied
+the loss of a mizen-mast by a lower studding-sail boom; but this expedient,
+together with the patching up of our rigging, was a poor temporary relief
+to us. We were soon obliged to cut away our best bower-anchor to ease the
+fore-mast, the shrouds and chain-plates of which were all broken, and the
+ship in all parts in a most crazy condition.
+
+Thus shattered and disabled, a single ship, (for we had now lost sight of
+our squadron) we had the additional mortification to find ourselves bearing
+for the land on our lee-shore, having thus far persevered in the course we
+held, from an error in conjecture: For the weather was unfavourable for
+observation, and there are no charts of that part of the coast. When those
+officers who first perceived their mistake endeavoured to persuade the
+captain to alter his course, and bear away, for the greater surety, to the
+westward, he persisted in making directly, as he thought, for the island of
+Socoro; and to such as dared from time to time to deliver their doubts of
+being entangled with the land stretching to the westward, he replied, That
+he thought himself in no case at liberty to deviate from his orders, and
+that the absence of his ship from the first place of rendezvous would
+entirely frustrate the whole squadron in the first object of their attack,
+and possibly decide upon the fortune of the whole expedition. For the
+better understanding the force of his reasoning, it is necessary to
+explain, that the island of Socoro is in the neighbourhood of Baldivia, the
+capture of which place could not be effected without the junction of that
+ship, which carried the ordnance and military stores.
+
+The knowledge of the great importance of giving so early and unexpected a
+blow to the Spaniards, determined the captain to make the shortest way to
+the point in view; and that rigid adherence to orders, from which he
+thought himself in no case at liberty to depart, begot in him a stubborn
+defiance of all difficulties, and took away from him those apprehensions
+which so justly alarmed all such as, from ignorance of the orders, had
+nothing present to their minds but the dangers of a lee-shore.[116]
+
+We had for some time been sensible of our approach to the land, from no
+other token than those of weeds and birds, which are the usual indications
+of nearing the coast; but at length we had an imperfect view of an
+eminence, which we conjectured to be one of the mountains of the
+Cordilleras. This, however, was not so distinctly seen, but that many
+conceived it to be the effect of imagination; but if the captain was
+persuaded of the nearness of our danger, it was now too late to remedy it;
+for at this time the straps of the fore jeer blocks breaking, the fore-yard
+came down, and the greatest part of the men being disabled through fatigue
+and sickness, it was some time before it could be got up again. The few
+hands who were employed in this business now plainly saw the land on the
+larboard beam, bearing N, W., upon which the ship was driving bodily.
+Orders were then given immediately by the captain to sway the fore-yard up,
+and set the foresail; which done, we wore ship with her head to the
+southward, and endeavoured to crowd her off from the land; but the weather,
+from being exceedingly tempestuous, blowing now a perfect hurricane, and
+right in upon the shore, rendered our endeavours (for we were now only
+twelve hands fit for duty) entirely fruitless. The night came on, dreadful
+beyond description, in which, attempting to throw out our topsails to claw
+off the shore, they were immediately blown from the yards.
+
+In the morning, about four o'clock, the ship struck. The shock we received
+upon this occasion, though very great, being not unlike a blow of a heavy
+sea, such as in the series of preceding storms we had often experienced,
+was taken for the same; but we were soon undeceived by her striking more
+violently than before, which laid her upon her beam-ends, the sea making a
+fair breach over her. Every person that now could stir was presently upon
+the quarter-deck; and many even of those were alert upon this occasion that
+had not shewed their faces upon deck for above two months before: Several
+poor wretches, who were in the last stage of the scurvy, and who could not
+get out of their hammocks, were immediately drowned.
+
+In this dreadful situation she lay for some little time, every soul on
+board looking upon the present minute as his last, for there was nothing to
+be seen but breakers all around us. However, a mountainous sea hove her off
+from thence; but she presently struck again, and broke her tiller. In this
+terrifying and critical juncture, to have observed all the various modes of
+horror operating according to the several characters and complexions
+amongst us, it was necessary that the observer himself should have been
+free from all impressions of danger. Instances there were, however, of
+behaviour so very remarkable, they could not escape the notice of any one
+who was not entirely bereaved of his senses; for some were in this
+condition to all intents and purposes; particularly one, in the ravings
+despair brought upon him, was seen stalking about the deck flourishing a
+cutlass over his head, and calling himself king of the country, and
+striking every body he came near, till his companions, seeing no other
+security against his tyranny, knocked him down. Some, reduced before by
+long sickness and the scurvy, became on this occasion, as it were,
+petrified and bereaved of all sense, like inanimate logs, and were bandied
+to and fro by the jerks and rolls of the ship, without exerting any efforts
+to help themselves. So terrible was the scene of foaming breakers around
+us, that one of the bravest men we had could not help expressing his dismay
+at it, saying, it was too shocking a sight to bear; and would have thrown
+himself over the rails of the quarterdeck into the sea had he not been
+prevented; but at the same time there were not wanting those who preserved
+a presence of mind truly heroic. The man at the helm, though both rudder
+and tiller were gone, kept his station; and being asked by one of the
+officers if the ship would steer or not, first took his time to make trial
+by the wheel, and then answered with as much respect and coolness as if the
+ship had been in the greatest safety, and immediately after applied himself
+with his usual serenity to his duty, persuaded it did not become him to
+desert it as long as the ship kept together. Mr Jones, mate, who now
+survives not only this wreck, but that of the Litchfield man of war upon
+the coast of Barbary, at the time when the ship was in the most imminent
+danger, not only shewed himself undaunted, but endeavoured to inspire the
+same resolution in the men, saying, "My friends, let us not be discouraged,
+did you never see a ship amongst breakers before? Let us endeavour to pass
+her through them. Come, lend a hand: here is a sheet, and here is a brace,
+lay hold: I don't doubt but we may stick her yet near enough to the land to
+save our lives." This had so good an effect, that many who before were half
+dead, seemed active again, and now went to work in earnest. This Mr Jones
+did purely to keep up the spirits of the people as long as possible; for he
+often said afterwards, he thought there was not the least chance of a
+single man's being saved. We now run in between an opening of the breakers,
+steering by the sheets and braces, when providentially we stuck fast
+between two great rocks; that to windward sheltered us in some measure from
+the violence of the sea. We immediately cut away the main and fore-mast,
+but the ship kept beating in such a manner, that we imagined she could not
+hold together but a very little while. The day now broke, and the weather,
+that had been extremely thick, cleared away for a few moments, and gave us
+a glimpse of the land not far from us. We now thought of nothing but saving
+our lives. To get the boats out, as our masts were gone, was a work of some
+time, which when accomplished, many were ready to jump into the first, by
+which means they narrowly escaped perishing before they reached the shore.
+I now went to Captain Cheap, (who had the misfortune to dislocate his
+shoulder by a fall the day before, as he was going forward to get the fore-
+yard swayed up) and asked him if he would not go on shore; but he told me,
+as he had done before, that he would be the last to leave the ship; and he
+ordered me to assist in getting the men out as soon as possible. I had been
+with him very often from the time the ship first struck, as he desired I
+would, to acquaint him with every thing that passed; and I particularly
+remarked, that he gave his orders at that time with as much coolness as
+ever he had done during the former part of the voyage.
+
+The scene was now greatly changed, for many who but a few minutes before
+had shewn the strongest signs of despair, and were on their knees praying
+for mercy, imagining they were now not in that immediate danger, grew very
+riotous, broke open every chest and box that was at hand, stove in the
+heads of casks of brandy and wine as they were borne up to the hatch-way,
+and got so drunk, that some of them were drowned on board, and lay floating
+about the decks for some days after. Before I left the ship, I went down to
+my chest, which was at the bulk-head of the ward-room, in order to save
+some little matters if possible; but whilst I was there the ship thumped
+with such violence, and the water came in so fast, that I was forced to get
+upon the quarter-deck again without saving a single rag but what was upon
+my back. The boatswain and some of the people would not leave the ship so
+long as there was any liquor to be got at; upon which Captain Cheap
+suffered himself to be helped out of his bed, put into the boat, and
+carried on shore.
+
+
+[116] Captain Cheap has been suspected of a design of going on the Spanish
+    coast without the commodore; but no part of his conduct seems to
+    authorize, in the least, such a suspicion. The author who brings this
+    heavy charge against him, is equally mistaken in imagining that
+    Captain Cheap had not instructions to sail to this island, and that
+    the commodore did neither go nor send thither to inform himself if any
+    of the squadron were there. This appears from the orders delivered to
+    the captains of the squadron the day before they sailed from St
+    Catherine's (L. Anson's Voyage, vol. xi, p. 267,); from the orders of
+    the council on board the Centurion in the bay of St Julian, (p. 276,)
+    and from the conduct of the commodore, (p. 305,) who cruized (with the
+    utmost hazard) more than a fortnight off the island of Socoro, and
+    along the coast in its neighbourhood. It was the second rendezvous at
+    Baldivia, and not that at Socoro, that the commodore was forced by
+    necessity to neglect.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+
+We land on a wild Shore.--No Appearance of Inhabitants.--One of our
+Lieutenants dies.--Conduct of a Part of the Crew who remained on the
+Wreck.--We name the Place of our Residence Mount Misery.--Narrative of
+Transactions there.--Indians appear in Canoes off the Coast.--Description
+of them.--Discontents amongst our People.
+
+
+It is natural to think, that to men thus upon the point of perishing by
+shipwreck, the getting to land was the highest attainment of their wishes;
+undoubtedly it was a desirable event; yet, all things considered, our
+condition was but little mended by the change. Which ever way we looked, a
+scene of horror presented itself; on one side the wreck, (in which was all
+that we had in the world, to support and subsist us) together with a
+boisterous sea, presented us with the most dreary prospect; on the other,
+the land did not wear a much more favourable appearance: desolate and
+barren, without sign of culture, we could hope to receive little other
+benefit from it than the preservation it afforded us from the sea. It must
+be confessed this was a great and merciful deliverance from immediate
+destruction; but then we had wet, cold, and hunger to struggle with, and no
+visible remedy against any of those evils. Exerting ourselves, however,
+though faint, benumbed, and almost helpless, to find some wretched covert
+against the extreme inclemency of the weather, we discovered an Indian hut
+at a small distance from the beach, within a wood, in which as many as
+possible, without distinction, crowded themselves, the night coming on
+exceedingly tempestuous and rainy. But here our situation was such as to
+exclude all rest and refreshment by sleep from most of us, for, besides
+that we pressed upon one another extremely, we were not without our alarms
+and apprehensions of being attacked by the Indians, from a discovery we
+made of some of their lances and other arms in our hut; and our uncertainty
+of their strength and disposition gave alarm to our imagination, and kept
+us in continual anxiety.
+
+In this miserable hovel, one of our company, a lieutenant of invalids, died
+this night; and of those who for want of room took shelter under a great
+tree, which stood them in very little stead, two more perished by the
+severity of that cold and rainy night. In the morning, the calls of hunger,
+which had been hitherto suppressed by our attention to more immediate
+dangers and difficulties, were now become too importunate to be resisted.
+We had most of us fasted eight-and-forty hours, some more; it was time
+therefore to make enquiry among ourselves what store of sustenance had been
+brought from the wreck by dire providence of some, and what could be
+procured on the island by the industry of others; but the produce of the
+one amounted to no more than two or three pounds of biscuit-dust preserved
+in a bag; and all the success of those who ventured abroad, the weather
+being still exceedingly bad, was to kill one sea-gull and pick some wild
+sellery. These, therefore, were immediately put into a pot, with the
+addition of a large quantity of water, and made into a kind of soup, of
+which each partook as far as it would go; but we had no sooner thrown this
+down than we were seized with the most painful sickness at our stomachs,
+violent reachings, swoonings, and other symptoms of being poisoned. This
+was imputed to various causes, but in general to the herbs we made use of,
+in the nature and quality of which we fancied ourselves mistaken; but a
+little farther enquiry let us into the real occasion of it, which was no
+other than this: the biscuit-dust was the sweepings of the bread-room, but
+the bag in which they were put had been a tobacco-bag, the contents of
+which not being entirely taken out, what remained mixed with the biscuit-
+dust, and proved a strong emetic.
+
+We were in all about a hundred and forty who had got to shore, but some few
+remained still on board, detained either by drunkenness or a view of
+pillaging the wreck, among whom was the boatswain. These were visited by an
+officer in the yawl, who was to endeavour to prevail upon them to join the
+rest; but finding them in the greatest disorder and disposed to mutiny, he
+was obliged to desist from his purpose and return without them. Though we
+were very desirous, and our necessities required that we should take some
+survey of the land we were upon, yet being strongly prepossessed that the
+savages were retired but some little distance from us, and waited to see us
+divided, our parties did not make this day any great excursions from the
+hut; but as far as we went, we found it very morassy and unpromising. The
+spot which we occupied was a bay formed by hilly promontories; that to the
+north so exceeding steep, that in order to ascend it (for there was no
+going round, the bottom being washed by the sea) we were at the labour of
+cutting steps. This, which we call Mount Misery, was of use to us in taking
+some observations afterwards when the weather would permit: the southern
+promontory was not so inaccessible. Beyond this, I, with some others,
+having reached another bay, found driven ashore some parts of the wreck,
+but no kind of provision; nor did we meet with any shell-fish, which we
+were chiefly in search of. We therefore returned to the rest, and for that
+day made no other repast than what the wild sellery afforded us. The
+ensuing night proved exceedingly tempestuous; and, the sea running very
+high, threatened those on board with immediate destruction by the parting
+of the wreck. They then were as solicitous to get ashore as they were
+before obstinate in refusing the assistance we sent them; and when they
+found the boat did not come to their relief at the instant they expected
+it, without considering how impracticable a thing it was to send it them in
+such a sea, they fired one of the quarter-deck guns at the hut, the ball of
+which did but just pass over the covering of it, and was plainly heard by
+the captain and us who were within. Another attempt, therefore, was made to
+bring these madmen to land; which, however, by the violence of the sea and
+other impediments, occasioned by the mast that lay alongside, proved
+ineffectual. This unavoidable delay made the people on board outrageous;
+they fell to beating every thing to pieces that fell in the way; and,
+carrying their intemperance to the greatest excess, broke open chests and
+cabins for plunder that could be of no use to them; and so earnest were
+they in this wantonness of theft, that one man had evidently been murdered
+on account of some division of the spoil, or for the sake of the share that
+fell to him, having all the marks of a strangled corpse. One thing in this
+outrage they seemed particularly attentive to, which was, to provide
+themselves with arms and ammunition, in order to support them in putting
+their mutinous designs in execution, and asserting their claim to a lawless
+exemption from the authority of their officers, which they pretended must
+cease with the loss of the ship. But of these arms, which we stood in great
+need of, they were soon bereaved upon coming ashore, by the resolution of
+Captain Cheap and Lieutenant Hamilton of the marines. Among these mutineers
+who had been left on board, as I observed before, was the boatswain, who,
+instead of exerting the authority he had over the rest, to keep them within
+bounds as much as possible, was himself a ringleader in their riot; him,
+without respect to the figure he then made, for he was in laced clothes,
+Captain Cheap, by a blow well laid on with his cane, felled to the ground.
+It was scarce possible to refrain from laughter at the whimsical appearance
+these fellows made, who, having rifled the chests of the officers best
+suits, had put them on over their greasy trowsers and dirty checked shirts.
+They were soon stripped of their finery, as they had before been obliged to
+resign their arms.
+
+The incessant rains and exceeding cold weather in this climate, rendered it
+impossible for us to subsist long without shelter; and the hut being much
+too little to receive us all, it was necessary to fall upon some expedient,
+without delay, which might serve our purpose: accordingly the gunner,
+carpenter, and some more, turning the cutter keel upwards, and fixing it
+upon props, made no despicable habitation. Having thus established some
+sort of settlement, we had the more leisure to look about us, and to make
+our researches with greater accuracy than we had before, after such
+supplies as the most desolate coasts are seldom unfurnished with.
+Accordingly we soon provided ourselves with some sea-fowl, and found
+limpets, mussels, and other shellfish in tolerable abundance; but this
+rummaging of the shore was now becoming extremely irksome to those who had
+any feeling, by the bodies of our drowned people thrown among the rocks,
+some of which were hideous spectacles, from the mangled condition they were
+in by the violent surf that drove in upon the coast. These horrors were
+overcome by the distresses of our people, who were even glad of the
+occasion of killing the gallinazo (the carrion crow of that country) while
+preying on these carcases, in order to make a meal of them. But a provision
+by no means proportionable to the number of mouths to be fed, could, by our
+utmost industry, be acquired from that part of the island we had hitherto
+traversed; therefore, till we were in a capacity of making more distant
+excursions, the wreck was to be applied to, as often as possible, for such
+supplies as could be got out of her. But as this was a very precarious fund
+in its present situation, and at best could not last us long; considering
+too that it was very uncertain how long we might be detained upon this
+island; the stores and provisions we were so fortunate as to retrieve, were
+not only to be dealt out with the most frugal economy, but a sufficient
+quantity, if possible, laid by, to fit us out, whenever we could agree upon
+any method of transporting ourselves from this dreary spot. The
+difficulties we had to encounter in these visits to the wreck, cannot be
+easily described; for no part of it being above water except the quarter-
+deck and part of the fore-castle, we were usually obliged to purchase such
+things as were within reach, by means of large hooks fastened to poles, in
+which business we were much incommoded by the dead bodies floating between
+decks.
+
+In order to secure what we thus got in a manner to answer the ends and
+purposes above-mentioned, Captain Cheap ordered a store-tent to be erected
+near his hut, as a repository, from which nothing was to be dealt out but
+in the measure and proportion agreed upon by the officers; and though it
+was very hard upon us petty officers, who were fatigued with hunting all
+day in quest of food, to defend this tent from invasion by night, no other
+means could be devised for this purpose so effectual as the committing this
+charge to our care; and we were accordingly ordered to divide the task
+equally between us. Yet, notwithstanding our utmost vigilance and care,
+frequent robberies were committed upon our trust, the tent being accessible
+in more than one place. And one night when I had the watch, hearing a stir
+within, I came unawares upon the thief and presenting a pistol to his
+breast, obliged him to submit to be tied up to a post till I had an
+opportunity of securing him more effectually. Depredations continued to be
+made on our reserved stock, notwithstanding the great hazard attending such
+attempts; for our common safety made it necessary to punish them with the
+utmost rigour. This will not be wondered at, when it is known how little
+the allowance which might consistently be dispensed from thence was
+proportionable to our common exigencies, so that our daily and nightly task
+of roving after food was not in the least relaxed thereby; and all put
+together was so far from answering our necessities, that many at this time
+perished with hunger. A boy, when no other eatables could be found, having
+picked up the liver of one of the drowned men, (whose carcase had been torn
+to pieces by the force with which the sea drove it among the rocks) was
+with difficulty withheld from making a meal of it. The men were so
+assiduous in their research after the few things which drove from the
+wreck, that in order to have no sharers of their good fortune, they
+examined the shore no less by night than by day; so that many of them who
+were less alert, or not so fortunate as their neighbours, perished with
+hunger, or were driven to the last extremity. It must be observed, that on
+the 14th of May we were cast away, and it was not till the twenty-fifth of
+this month that provision was served regularly from the store-tent.
+
+The land we were now settled upon was about 90 leagues to the northward of
+the western mouth of the Straits of Magellan, in the latitude of between 47
+and 48 deg. south, from whence we could plainly see the Cordilleras; and by two
+lagoons on the north and south of us, stretching towards those mountains,
+we conjectured it was an island. But as yet we had no means of informing
+ourselves perfectly whether it was an island or the main; for besides that
+the inland parts at little distance from us seemed impracticable, from the
+exceeding great thickness of the wood, we had hitherto been in such
+confusion and want, (each finding full employment for his time, in scraping
+together a wretched subsistence, and providing shelter against the cold and
+rain) that no party could be formed to go upon discoveries. The climate and
+season too were utterly unfavourable to adventurers; and the coast, as far
+as our eye could stretch seaward, a scene of such dismal breakers as would
+discourage the most daring from making attempts in small boats. Nor were we
+assisted in our enquiries by any observation that could be made from that
+eminence we called Mount Misery, toward land, our prospect that way being
+intercepted by still higher hills and lofty woods: we had therefore no
+other expedient by means of which to come at this knowledge, but by fitting
+out one of our ship's boats upon some discovery, to inform us of our
+situation. Our long-boat was still on board the wreck; therefore a number
+of hands were now dispatched to cut the gunwale of the ship in order to get
+her out. Whilst we were employed in this business, there appeared three
+canoes of Indians paddling towards us: they had come round the point from
+the southern lagoons. It was some time before we could prevail upon them to
+lay aside their fears and approach us, which at length they were induced to
+do by the signs of friendship we made them, and by shewing some bale-goods,
+which they accepted, and suffered themselves to be conducted to the
+captain, who made them likewise some presents. They were strangely affected
+with the novelty thereof, but chiefly when shewn the looking-glass, in
+which the beholder could not conceive it to be his own face that was
+represented, but that of some other behind it, which he therefore went
+round to the back of the glass to find out.
+
+These people were of a small stature, very swarthy, having long black
+coarse hair hanging over their faces. It was evident, from their great
+surprise and every part of their behaviour, as well as their not having one
+thing in their possession which could be derived from white people, that
+they had never seen such. Their clothing was nothing but a bit of some
+beast's skin about their waists, and something woven from feathers over
+their shoulders; and as they uttered no word of any language we had ever
+heard, nor had any method of making themselves understood, we presumed they
+could have had no intercourse with Europeans. These savages, who upon their
+departure left us a few mussels, returned in two days, and surprised us by
+bringing three sheep. From whence they could procure these animals in a
+part of the world so distant from any Spanish settlement, cut off from all
+communication with the Spaniards by an inaccessible coast and unprofitable
+country, is difficult to conceive. Certain it is, that we saw no such
+creatures, nor ever heard of any such, from the Straits of Magellan till we
+got into the neighbourhood of Chiloe; it must be by some strange accident
+that these creatures came into their possession, but what that was we never
+could learn from them. At this interview we bartered with them for a dog or
+two, which we roasted and eat. In a few days after they made us another
+visit, and, bringing their wives with them, took up their abode with us for
+some days, then left us again.
+
+Whenever the weather permitted, which was now grown something drier, but
+exceeding cold, we employed ourselves about the wreck, from which we had,
+at sundry times, recovered several articles of provision and liquor: these
+were deposited in the store-tent. Ill humour and discontent, from the
+difficulties we laboured under in procuring subsistence, and the little
+prospect there was of any amendment in our condition, was now breaking out
+apace. In some it shewed itself by a separation of settlement and
+habitation; in others, by a resolution of leaving the captain entirely, and
+making a wild journey by themselves, without determining upon any plan
+whatever. For my own part, seeing it was the fashion, and liking none of
+their parties, I built a little hut just big enough for myself and a poor
+Indian dog I found in the woods, who could shift for himself along shore at
+low water, by getting limpets. This creature grew so fond of me and
+faithful, that he would suffer nobody to come near the hut without biting
+them. Besides those seceders I mentioned, some laid a scheme of deserting
+us entirely; these were in number ten, the greatest part of them a most
+desperate and abandoned crew, who, to strike a notable stroke before they
+went off, placed half a barrel of gunpowder close to the captain's hut,
+laid a train to it, and were just preparing to perpetrate their wicked
+design of blowing up their commander, when they were with difficulty
+dissuaded from it by one who had some bowels and remorse of conscience left
+in him. These wretches, after rambling some time in the woods, and finding
+it impracticable to get off, for they were then convinced that we were not
+upon the main, as they had imagined when they first left us, but upon an
+island within four or five leagues of it, returned and settled about a
+league from us; however, they were still determined, as soon as they could
+procure craft fit for their purpose, to get to the main. But before they
+could effect this, we found means to prevail upon the armourer and one of
+the carpenter's crew, two very useful men to us, who had imprudently joined
+them, to come over again to their duty. The rest, (one or two excepted)
+having built a punt, and converted the hull of one of the ship's masts into
+a canoe, went away up one of the lagoons, and never were heard of more.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+
+Unfortunate Death of Mr Cozens.--Improper Conduct of Captain Cheap.--The
+Indians join us in a friendly Manner, but depart presently on account of
+the Misconduct of our Men.--Our Number dreadfully reduced by Famine.--
+Description of the various Contrivances used for procuring Food.--Further
+Transactions.--Departure from the Island.
+
+
+These being a desperate and factious set, did not distress us much by their
+departure, but rather added to our future security. One in particular,
+James Mitchell by name, we had all the reason in the world to think had
+committed no less than two murders since the loss of our ship, one on the
+person found strangled on board, another on the body of a man whom we
+discovered among some bushes upon Mount Misery, stabbed in several places,
+and shockingly mangled. This diminution of our number was succeeded by an
+unfortunate accident much more affecting in its consequences, I mean the
+death of Mr Cozens, midshipman; in relating which with the necessary
+impartiality and exactness, I think myself obliged to be more than ordinary
+particular. Having one day among other things, got a cask of pease out of
+the wreck, about which I was almost constantly employed, I brought it to
+shore in the yawl, when having landed it, the captain came down upon the
+beach, and bid me to go up to some of the tents and order hands to come
+down and roll it up; but finding none except Mr Cozens, I delivered him the
+orders, who immediately came down to the captain, where I left them when I
+returned to the wreck. Upon my coming on shore again, I found that Mr
+Cozens was put under confinement by the captain for being drunk and giving
+him abusive language; however, he was soon after released. A day or two
+after he had some dispute with the surgeon, and came to blows: all these
+things incensed the captain greatly against him. I believe this unfortunate
+man was kept warm with liquor, and set on by some ill-designing persons;
+for, when sober, I never knew a better-natured man, or one more
+inoffensive. Some little time after, at the hour of serving provisions, Mr
+Cozens was at the store-tent; and having, it seems, lately had a quarrel
+with the purser, and now some words arising between them, the latter told
+him he was come to mutiny; and without any further ceremony fired a pistol
+at his head, which narrowly missed him. The captain, hearing the report of
+the pistol, and perhaps the purser's words, that Cozens was come to mutiny,
+ran out of his hut with a cocked pistol in his hand, and, without asking
+any questions, immediately shot him through the head. I was at this time in
+my hut, as the weather was extremely bad, but running out upon the alarm of
+this firing, the first thing I saw was Mr Cozens on the ground weltering in
+his blood: he was sensible, and took me by the hand, as he did several
+others, shaking his head, as if he meant to take leave of us. If Mr Cozens'
+behaviour to his captain was indecent and provoking, the captain's, on the
+other hand, was rash and hasty. If the first was wanting in that respect
+and observance which is due from a petty officer to his commander, the
+latter was still more unadvised in the method he took for the enforcement
+of his authority; of which, indeed, he was jealous to the last degree, and
+which he saw daily declining, and ready to be trampled upon. His mistaken
+apprehension of a mutinous design in Mr Cozens, the sole motive of this
+rash action, was so far from answering the end he proposed by it, that the
+men, who before were much dissatisfied and uneasy, were by this unfortunate
+step thrown almost into open sedition and revolt. It was evident that the
+people, who ran out of their tents, alarmed by the report of fire-arms,
+though they disguised their real sentiments for the present, were extremely
+affected at this catastrophe of Mr Cozens, for he was greatly beloved by
+them: their minds were now exasperated, and it was to be apprehended, that
+their resentment, which was smothered for the present, would shortly shew
+itself in some desperate enterprize. The unhappy victim, who lay weltering
+in his blood on the ground before them, seemed to absorb their whole
+attention; the eyes of all were fixed upon him; and visible marks of the
+deepest concern appeared in the countenances of the spectators. The
+persuasion the captain was under, at the time he shot Mr Cozens, that his
+intentions were mutinous, together with a jealousy of the diminution of his
+authority, occasioned also his behaving with less compassion and tenderness
+towards him afterwards than was consistent with the unhappy condition of
+the poor sufferer: for when it was begged as a favour by his mess-mates,
+that Mr Cozens might be removed to their tent, though a necessary thing in
+his dangerous situation, yet it was not permitted; but the poor wretch was
+suffered to languish on the ground some days with no other covering than a
+bit of canvas thrown over some bushes, where he died. But to return to our
+story: the captain, addressing himself to the people thus assembled, told
+them, that it was his resolution to maintain his command over them as
+usual, which still remained in as much force as ever; and then ordered them
+all to return to their respective tents, with which order they instantly
+complied. Now we had saved our long-boat from the wreck, and got it in our
+possession, there was nothing that seemed so necessary towards the
+advancing our delivery from this desolate place as the new-modelling this
+vessel, so as to have room for all those who were inclined to go off in
+her, and to put her in a condition to bear the stormy seas we must of
+course encounter. We therefore hauled her up, and having placed her upon
+blocks, sawed her in two, in order to lengthen her about twelve feet by the
+keel. For this purpose, all those who could be spared from the more
+immediate task of procuring subsistence, were employed in fitting and
+shaping timber as the carpenter directed them; I say, in procuring
+subsistence, because the weather lately having been very tempestuous, and
+the wreck working much, had disgorged a great part of her contents, which
+were every where dispersed about the shore.
+
+We now sent frequent parties up the lagoons, which sometimes succeeded in
+getting some sea-fowl for us. The Indians appearing again in the offing, we
+put off our yawl in order to frustrate any design they might have of going
+up the lagoon towards the deserters, who would have availed themselves of
+some of their canoes to have got upon the main. Having conducted them in,
+we found that their intention was to settle among us, for they had brought
+their wives and children with them, in all about fifty persons, who
+immediately set about building themselves wigwams, and seemed much
+reconciled to our company; and, could we have entertained them as we ought,
+they would have been of great assistance to us, who were extremely put to
+it to subsist ourselves, being a hundred in number; but the men, now
+subject to little or no controul, endeavoured to seduce their wives, which
+gave the Indians such offence, that in a short time they found means to
+depart, taking every thing along with them; and we, being sensible of the
+cause, never expected to see them return again. The carpenter having made
+some progress in his work upon the long-boat, in which he was enabled to
+proceed tolerably, by the tools and other articles of his business
+retrieved from the wreck, the men began to think of the course they should
+take to get home; or rather, having borrowed Sir John Narborough's voyage
+of Captain Cheap, by the application of Mr Bulkely, which book he saw me
+reading one day in my tent, they immediately upon perusing it, concluded
+upon making their voyage home by the Straits of Magellan. This plan was
+proposed to the captain, who by no means approved of it, his design being
+to go northwards, with a view of seizing a ship of the enemy's, by which
+means he might join the commodore: at-present, therefore, here it rested.
+But the men were in high spirits from the prospect they had of getting off
+in the long-boat, overlooking all the difficulties and hazards of a voyage
+almost impracticable, and caressing the carpenter, who indeed was an
+excellent workman, and deserved all the encouragement they could give him.
+The Indians having left us, and the weather continuing tempestuous and
+rainy, the distresses of the people for want of food became insupportable.
+Our number, which was at first 145, was now reduced to 100, and chiefly by
+famine, which put the rest upon all shifts and devices to support
+themselves.
+
+One day, when I was at home in my hut with my Indian dog, a party came to
+my door, and told me their necessities were such, that they must eat the
+creature or starve.
+
+Though their plea was urgent, I could not help using some arguments to
+endeavour to dissuade them from killing him, as his faithful services and
+fondness deserved it at my hands; but, without weighing my arguments, they
+took him away by force and killed him; upon which, thinking that I had at
+least as good a right to a share as the rest, I sat down with them and
+partook of their repast. Three weeks after that I was glad to make a meal
+of his paws and skin, which, upon recollecting the spot where they had
+killed him, I found thrown aside and rotten. The pressing calls of hunger
+drove our men to their wit's end, and put them upon a variety of devices to
+satisfy it. Among the ingenious this way, one Phipps, a boatswain's mate,
+having got a water puncheon, scuttled it; then lashing two logs, one on
+each side, set out in quest of adventures in this extraordinary and
+original piece of embarkation. By this means he would frequently, when all
+the rest were starving, provide himself with wild-fowl; and it must have
+been very bad weather indeed which could deter him from putting out to sea
+when his occasions required. Sometimes he would venture far out in the
+offing, and be absent the whole day; at last, it was his misfortune, at a
+great distance from shore, to be overset by a heavy sea, but being near a
+rock, though no swimmer, he managed so as to scramble to it, and with great
+difficulty ascended it: There he remained two days with very little hopes
+of any relief, for he was too far off to be seen from shore; but
+fortunately a boat, having put off and gone in quest of wild-fowl that way,
+discovered him making such signals as he was able, and brought him back to
+the island. But this accident did not discourage him, but that soon after,
+having procured an ox's hide, used on board for sifting powder, and called
+a gunner's hide, by the assistance of some hoops he formed something like a
+canoe, in which he made several successful voyages. When the weather would
+permit us, we seldom failed of getting some wild-fowl, though never in any
+plenty, by putting off with our boats; but this most inhospitable climate
+is not only deprived of the sun for the most part by a thick, rainy
+atmosphere, but is also visited by almost incessant tempests. It must be
+confessed we reaped some benefit from these hard gales and overgrown seas,
+which drove several things ashore; but there was no dependence on such
+accidental relief; and we were always alert to avail ourselves of every
+interval of fair weather, though so little to be depended on, that we were
+often unexpectedly and to our peril overtaken by a sudden change. In one of
+our excursions, I, with two more, in a wretched punt of our own making, had
+no sooner landed at our station upon a high rock, than the punt was driven
+loose by a sudden squall; and had not one of the men, at the risk of his
+life, jumped into the sea and swam on board her, we must in all probability
+have perished, for we were more than three leagues from the island at the
+time. Among the birds we generally shot, was the painted goose, whose
+plumage is variegated with the most lively colours; and a bird much larger
+than a goose, which we called the racehorse, from the velocity with which
+it moved upon the surface of the water, in a sort of half-flying half-
+running motion. But we were not so successful in our endeavours by land;
+for though we sometimes got pretty far into the woods, we met with very few
+birds in our walks. We never saw but three woodcocks, two of which were
+killed by Mr Hamilton, and one by myself. These, with some humming-birds,
+and a large kind of robin red-breast, were the only feathered inhabitants
+of this island, excepting a small bird with two very long feathers in his
+tail, which was generally seen amongst the rocks, and was so tame, that I
+have had them rest upon my shoulder whilst I have been gathering shellfish.
+Indeed, we were visited by many birds of prey, some very large, but these
+only occasionally, and, as we imagined, allured by some dead whale in the
+neighbourhood, which was once seen. However, if we were so fortunate as to
+kill one of them, we thought ourselves very well off. In one of my walks,
+seeing a bird of this latter kind upon an eminence, I endeavoured to come
+upon it unperceived with my gun, by means of the woods which lay at the
+back of that eminence; but when I had proceeded so far in the wood as to
+think I was in a line with it, I heard a growling close by me, which made
+me think it advisable to retire as soon as possible: The woods were so
+gloomy I could see nothing; but as I retired, this noise followed me close
+till I had got out of them. Some of our men did assure me that they had
+seen a very large beast in the woods, but their description of it was too
+imperfect to be relied upon. The wood here is chiefly of the aromatic kind;
+the iron wood, a wood of a very deep red hue, and another, of an exceeding
+bright yellow. All the low spots are very swampy; but, what we thought
+strange, upon the summits of the highest hills were found beds of shells, a
+foot or two thick.
+
+The long-boat being nearly finished, some of our company were selected to
+go out in the barge in order to reconnoitre the coast to the southward,
+which might assist us in the navigation we were going upon. This party
+consisted of Mr Bulkely, Mr Jones, the purser, myself, and ten men. The
+first night we put into a good harbour, a few leagues to the southward of
+Wager's Island, where finding a large bitch big with puppies, we regaled
+upon them. In this expedition we had our usual bad weather and breaking
+seas, which were grown to such a height the third day, that we were
+obliged, through distress, to push in at the first inlet we saw at hand.
+This we had no sooner entered, than we were presented with a view of a fine
+bay, in which having secured the barge, we went ashore; but the weather
+being very rainy, and finding nothing to subsist upon, we pitched a bell-
+tent, which we had brought with us, in the wood, opposite to where the
+barge lay. As this tent was not large enough to contain us all, I proposed
+to four of the people to go to the end of the bay, about two miles distant
+from the bell-tent, to occupy the skeleton of an old Indian wigwam, which I
+had discovered in a walk that way upon our first landing. This we covered
+to windward with sea-weed; and lighting a fire, laid ourselves down, in
+hopes of finding a remedy for our hunger in sleep; but we had not long
+composed ourselves before one of our company was disturbed by the blowing
+of some animal at his face, and upon opening his eyes was not a little
+astonished to see by the glimmering of the fire, a large beast standing
+over him. He had presence of mind enough to snatch a brand from the fire,
+which was now very low, and thrust it at the nose of the animal, who
+thereupon made off: This done, the man awoke us, and related, with horror
+in his countenance, the narrow escape he had of being devoured. But though
+we were under no small apprehensions of another visit from this animal, yet
+our fatigue and heaviness was greater than our fears, and we once more
+composed ourselves to rest, and slept the remainder of the night without
+any further disturbance. In the morning, we were not a little anxious to
+know how our companions had fared; and this anxiety was increased upon
+tracing the footsteps of the beast in the sand in a direction towards the
+bell-tent. The impression was deep and plain, of a large round foot well
+furnished with claws. Upon our acquainting the people in the tent with the
+circumstances of our story, we found that they too had been visited by the
+same unwelcome guest, which they had driven away by much the same
+expedient.
+
+We now returned from this cruise, with a strong gale, to Wager's Island,
+having found it impracticable to make farther discoveries in the barge on
+so dangerous a coast, and in such heavy seas. Here we soon discovered, by
+the quarters of dogs hanging up, that the Indians had brought a fresh
+supply to our market. Upon enquiry, we found that there had been six canoes
+of them, who, among other methods of taking fish, had taught their dogs to
+drive the fish into a corner of some pond or lake, from whence they were
+easily taken out by the skill and address of these savages. The old cabal,
+during our absence, had been frequently revived; the debates of which
+generally ended in riot and drunkenness. This cabal was chiefly held in a
+large tent, which the people belonging to it had taken some pains to make
+snug and convenient, and lined with bales of broad cloth driven from the
+wreck. Eighteen of the stoutest fellows of the ship's company had
+possession of this tent, from whence were dispatched committees to the
+captain, with the resolutions they had taken with regard to their
+departure, but oftener for liquor. Their determination was to go in the
+long-boat to the southward by the Straits of Magellan; and the point they
+were labouring, was to prevail upon the captain to accompany them. But
+though he had fixed upon a quite different plan, which was to go to the
+northward, yet he thought it politic at present seemingly to acquiesce with
+them, in order to keep them quiet. When they began to stipulate with him,
+that he should be under some restrictions in point of command, and should
+do nothing without consulting his officers, he insisted upon the full
+exercise of his authority as before. This broke all measures between them,
+and they were from this time determined he should go with them whether he
+would or no. A better pretence they could not have for effecting this
+design, than the unfortunate affair of Mr Cozens, which they therefore made
+use of for seizing his person, and putting him under confinement, in order
+to bring him to his trial in England.
+
+The long-boat was now launched and ready for sailing, and all the men
+embarked, excepting Captain Pemberton with a party of marines, who drew
+them up upon the beach with intent to conduct Captain Cheap on board; but
+he was at length persuaded to desist from this resolution by Mr Bulkely.
+The men too, finding they were straitened for room, and that their stock of
+provision would not admit of their taking supernumeraries aboard, were now
+no less strenuous for his enlargement, and being left to his option of
+staying behind. Therefore, after having distributed their share in the
+reserved stock of provision, which was very small, we departed, leaving
+Captain Cheap, Mr Hamilton of the marines, and the surgeon, upon the
+island. I had all along been in the dark as to the turn this affair would
+take; and not in the least suspecting but that it was determined Captain
+Cheap should be taken with us, readily embarked under that persuasion; but
+when I found that this design, which was so seriously carried on to the
+last, was suddenly dropped, I was determined, upon the first opportunity,
+to leave them, which was at this instant impossible for me to do, the long-
+boat lying at some distance off shore at anchor.
+
+We were in all eighty-one when we left the island, distributed into the
+long-boat, cutter, and barge; fifty-nine on board the first, twelve in the
+second, in the last ten. It was our purpose to put into some harbour, if
+possible, every evening, as we were in no condition to keep those terrible
+seas long; for without other assistance, our stock of provisions was no
+more than might have been consumed in a few days; our water was chiefly
+contained in a few powder-barrels; our flour was to be lengthened out by a
+mixture of sea-weed; and our other supplies depended upon the success of
+our guns and industry among the rocks. Captain Pemberton having brought on
+board his men, we weighed, but by a sudden squall of wind having split our
+foresail, we with difficulty cleared the rocks by means of our boats, bore
+away for a sandy bay on the south side of the lagoon, and anchored in ten
+fathom. The next morning we got under weigh, but it blowing hard at W. by
+N. with a great swell, put into a small bay again, well sheltered by a
+ledge of rocks without us. At this time it was thought necessary to send
+the barge away back to Cheap's bay for some spare canvas, which was
+imagined would be soon wanted. I thought this a good opportunity of
+returning, and therefore made one with those who went upon this business in
+the barge. We were no sooner clear of the long-boat, than all of those in
+the boat with me declared they had the same intention.
+
+When we arrived at the island, we were extremely welcome to Captain Cheap.
+The next day, I asked him leave to try if I could prevail upon those in the
+long-boat to give us our share of provisions: this he granted; but said, if
+we went in the barge they would certainly take her from us. I told him my
+design was to walk it, and only desired the boat might land me upon the
+main, and wait for me till I came back. I had the most dreadful journey of
+it imaginable, through thick woods and swamps all the way; but I might as
+well have spared myself that trouble, as it was to no manner of purpose,
+for they would not give me, nor any one of us that left them, a single
+ounce of provisions of any kind, I therefore returned, and after that made
+a second attempt, but all in vain. They even threatened, if we did not
+return with the barge, they would fetch her by force. It is impossible to
+conceive the distressed situation we were now in at the time of the long-
+boat's departure. I don't mention this event as the occasion of it; by
+which, if we who were left on the island experienced any alteration at all,
+it was for the better, and which, in all probability, had it been deferred,
+might have been fatal to the greatest part of us; but at this time the
+subsistence on which we had hitherto depended chiefly, which was the shell-
+fish, were every where along shore eat up; and as to stock saved from the
+wreck, it may be guessed what the amount of that might be, when the share
+allotted to the captain, Lieutenant Hamilton, and the surgeon, was no more
+than six pieces of beef, as many of pork, and ninety pounds of flour. As to
+myself and those that left the long-boat, it was the least revenge they
+thought they could take of us to withhold our provision from us, though at
+the same time it was hard and unjust. For a day or two after our return
+there was some little pittance dealt out to us, yet it was upon the foot of
+favour; and we were soon left to our usual industry for a farther supply.
+This was now exerted to very little purpose, for the reason before
+assigned; to which may be added, the wreck was now blown up, all her upper
+works gone, and no hopes of any valuable driftage from her for the future.
+A weed called slaugh, fried in the tallow of some candles we had saved, and
+wild sellery, were our only fare, by which our strengths was so much
+impaired, that we could scarcely crawl. It was my misfortune too to labour
+under a severe flux, by which, I was reduced to a very feeble state; so
+that, in attempting to traverse the rocks in search of shell-fish, I fell
+from one into very deep water, and with difficulty saved my life by
+swimming.
+
+As the captain was now freed, by the departure of the long-boat, from the
+riotous applications, menaces, and disturbance of an unruly crew, and left
+at liberty to follow the plan he had resolved upon, of going northward, he
+began to think seriously of putting it in execution, in order to which, a
+message was sent to the deserters, who had seated themselves on the other
+side of the neighbouring lagoon, to sound them, whether they were inclined
+to join the captain in his undertaking, and if they were, to bring them
+over to him. For this set, the party gone off in the long-boat had left an
+half-allowance proportion of the common stock of provision. These men, upon
+the proposal, readily agreed to join their commander; and being conducted
+to him, increased our number to twenty. The boats which remained in our
+possession to carry off all these people were only the barge and yawl, two
+very crazy bottoms; the broadside of the last was entirely out, and the
+first had suffered much in a variety of bad weather she had gone through,
+and was much out of repair. And now our carpenter was gone from us, we had
+no remedy for these misfortunes but the little skill we had gained from
+him. However, we made tolerable shift to patch up the boats for our
+purpose. In the height of our distresses, when hunger, which seems to
+include and absorb all others, was most prevailing, we were cheered with
+the appearance once more of our friendly Indians, as we thought, from whom
+we hoped for some relief; but as the consideration was wanting for which
+alone they would part with their commodities, we were not at all benefited
+by their stay, which was very short. The little reserve too of flour made
+by the captain for our sea-stock when we should leave the island, was now
+diminished by theft: the thieves, who were three of our men, were however
+soon discovered, and two of them apprehended, but the third made his escape
+to the woods. Considering the pressing state of our necessities, this theft
+was looked upon as a most heinous crime, and therefore required an
+extraordinary punishment: accordingly, the captain ordered these
+delinquents to be severely whipped, and then to be banished to an island at
+some distance from us; but before this latter part of the sentence could be
+put in execution, one of them fled, but the other was put alone upon a
+barren island, which afforded not the least shelter: however, we, in
+compassion, and contrary to order, patched him up a bit of a hut and
+kindled him a fire, and then left the poor wretch to shift for himself. In
+two or three days after, going to the island in our boat with some little
+refreshment, such as our miserable circumstances would admit of, and with
+an intent of bringing him back, we found him dead and stiff. I was now
+reduced to the lowest condition by my illness, which was increased by the
+vile stuff I eat, when we were favoured by a fair day, a thing very
+extraordinary in this climate. We instantly took the advantage of it, and
+once more visited the last remains of the wreck, her bottom. Here our pains
+were repaid with the great good fortune of hooking up three casks of beef,
+which were brought safe to shore. This providential supply could not have
+happened at a more seasonable time than now, when we were afflicted with
+the greatest dearth we had ever experienced, and the little strength we had
+remaining was to be exerted in our endeavours to leave the island.
+Accordingly we soon found a remedy for our sickness, which was nothing but
+the effects of famine, and were greatly restored by food. The provision was
+equally distributed among us all, and served us for the remainder of our
+stay here.
+
+We began to grow extremely impatient to leave the island, as the days were
+now nearly at their longest, and about Midsummer in these parts; but as to
+the weather, there seems to be little difference in a difference of
+seasons. Accordingly, on the 15th of December, the day being tolerable, we
+told Captain Cheap we thought it a fine opportunity to run across the bay.
+But he first desired two or three of us to accompany him to our place of
+observation, the top of Mount Misery, when, looking through his
+perspective, he observed to us that the sea ran very high without. However,
+this had no weight with the people, who were desirous, at all events, to be
+gone. I should here observe, that Captain Cheap's plan was, if possible, to
+get to the island of Chiloe, and if we found any vessel there, to board her
+immediately and cut her out. This he might certainly have done with ease,
+had it been his good fortune to get round with the boats.
+
+We now launched both boats, and got every thing on board of them as quick
+as possible. Captain Cheap, the surgeon, and myself, were in the barge with
+nine men, and, Lieutenant Hamilton and Mr Campbell in the yawl with six. I
+steered the barge, and Mr Campbell the yawl; but we had not been two hours
+at sea before the wind shifted more to the westward and began to blow very
+hard, and the sea ran extremely high, so that we could no longer keep our
+heads towards the cape or headland we had designed for. This cape we had
+had a view of, in one of the intervals of fair weather during our abode on
+the island, from Mount Misery; and it seemed to be distant between twenty
+and thirty leagues from us. We were now obliged to bear away right before
+the wind. Though the yawl was not far from us, we could see nothing of her,
+except now and then upon the top of a mountainous sea. In both the boats
+the men were obliged to sit as close as possible, to receive the seas on
+their backs, to prevent their filling us, which was what we every moment
+expected. We were obliged to throw every thing overboard to lighten the
+boats, all our beef, and even the grapnel, to prevent sinking. Night was
+coming on, and we were running on a lee-shore fast, where the sea broke in
+a frightful manner. Not one amongst us imagined it possible for boats to
+live in such a sea. In this situation, as we neared the shore, expecting to
+be beat to pieces by the first breaker, we perceived a small opening
+between the rocks, which we stood for, and found a very narrow passage
+between them, which brought us into a harbour for the boats, as calm and
+smooth as a mill-pond. The yawl had got in before us, and our joy was great
+at meeting again after so unexpected a deliverance. Here we secured the
+boats, and ascended a rock.
+
+It rained excessively hard all the first part of the night, and was
+extremely cold; and though we had not a dry thread about us, and no wood
+could be found for firing, we were obliged to pass the night in that
+uncomfortable situation, without any covering, shivering in our wet
+clothes. The frost coming on with the morning, it was impossible for any of
+us to get a moment's sleep; and having flung overboard our provision the
+day before, there being no prospect of finding any thing to eat on this
+coast, in the morning we pulled out of the cove, but found so great a sea
+without, that we could make but little of it. After tugging all day,
+towards night we put in among some small islands, landed upon one of them,
+and found it a mere swamp. As the weather was the same, we passed this
+night much as we had done the preceding; sea-tangle was all we could get to
+eat at first, but the next day we had better luck; the surgeon got a goose,
+and we found materials for a good fire.
+
+We were confined here three or four days, the weather all that time proving
+so bad that we could not put out. As soon as it grew moderate, we left this
+place and shaped our course to the northward; and perceiving a large
+opening between very high land and a low point, we steered for it, and when
+got that length, found a large bay, down which we rowed, flattering
+ourselves there might be a passage that way; but towards night we came to
+the bottom of the bay, and finding no outlet, we were obliged to return the
+same way we came, having found nothing the whole day to alleviate our
+hunger.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+
+Occurrences on our Voyage.--We encounter bad Weather and various Dangers
+and Distresses.--Leave a Part of our Crew behind on a desert Shore.--A
+strange Cemetry discovered.--Narrow Escape from Wreck.--Return to Mount
+Misery.--We are visited by a Chanos Indian Cacique, who talks Spanish, with
+whom we again take our Departure from the Island.
+
+
+Next night we put into a little cove, which, from the great quantity of red
+wood found there, we called Red-wood Cove. Leaving this place in the
+morning, we had the wind southerly, blowing fresh, by which we made much
+way that day to the northward. Towards evening we were in with a pretty
+large island. Putting ashore on it, we found it clothed with the finest
+trees we had ever seen, their stems running up to a prodigious height,
+without knot or branch, and as straight as cedars; the leaf of these trees
+resembles the myrtle leaf, only somewhat larger. I have seen trees larger
+than these in circumference on the coast of Guinea, and there only; but for
+a length of stem, which gradually tapered, I have no where met with any to
+compare to them. The wood was of a hard substance, and if not too heavy,
+would have made good masts; the dimensions of some of these trees being
+equal to a main-mast of a first-rate man of war. The shore was covered with
+drift wood of a very large size, most of it cedar, which makes a brisk
+fire; but is so subject to snap and fly, that when we waked in the morning,
+after a sound sleep, we found our clothes singed in many places with the
+sparks, and covered with splinters.
+
+The next morning being calm, we rowed out, but as soon as clear of the
+island, we found a great swell from the westward; we rowed to the bottom of
+a very large bay which was to the northward of us, the land very low, and
+we were in hopes of finding some inlet through, but did not, so kept along
+shore to the westward. This part, which I take to be above fifty leagues
+from Wager Island, is the very bottom of the large bay it lies in. Here was
+the only passage to be found, which, if we could by any means have got
+information of it, would have saved us much fruitless labour. Of this
+passage I shall have occasion to say more hereafter.
+
+Having at this time an off-shore wind, we kept the wind close on board till
+we came to a head-land: it was near night before we got abreast of the
+head-land, and opening it discovered a very large bay to the northward, and
+another head-land to the westward, at a great distance. We endeavoured to
+cut short our passage to it by crossing, which is very seldom to be
+effected in these overgrown seas by boats; and this we experienced now, for
+the wind springing up, and beginning to blow fresh, we were obliged to put
+back towards the first head-land, into a small cove, just big enough to
+shelter the two boats. Here an accident happened that alarmed us much.
+After securing our boats, we climbed up a rock scarcely large enough to
+contain our numbers: having nothing to eat, we betook ourselves to our
+usual receipt for hunger, which was going to sleep. We accordingly made a
+fire, and stowed ourselves round it as well as we could, but two of our men
+being incommoded for want of room, went a little way from us into a small
+nook, over which a great cliff hung, and served them for a canopy.
+
+In the middle of the night we were awakened with a terrible rambling, which
+we apprehended to be nothing less than the shock of an earthquake, which we
+had before experienced in these parts; and this conjecture we had reason to
+think not ill founded, upon hearing hollow groans and cries as of men half
+swallowed up. We immediately got up, and ran to the place from whence the
+cries came, and then we were put out of all doubt as to the opinion we had
+formed of this accident, for here we found the two men almost buried under
+loose stones and earth; but upon a little farther enquiry, we were
+undeceived as to the cause we had imputed this noise to, which we found to
+be occasioned by the sudden giving way of the impending cliff, which fell a
+little beyond our people, carrying trees and rocks with it and loose earth,
+the latter of which fell in part on our men, whom we with some pains
+rescued from their uneasy situation, from which they escaped with some
+bruises.
+
+The next morning we got out early, and the wind being westerly, rowed the
+whole day for the head-land we had seen the night before; but when we had
+got that length, could find no harbour, but were obliged to go into a sandy
+bay, and lay the whole night upon our oars, and a most dreadful one it
+proved, blowing and raining very hard. Here we were so pinched with hunger,
+that we eat the shoes off our feet, which consisted of raw seal-skin. In
+the morning we got out of the bay, but the incessant foul weather had
+overcome us, and we began to be indifferent as to what befel us; and the
+boats in the night making into a bay, we nearly lost the yawl, a breaker
+having filled her and driven her ashore upon the beach. This, by some of
+our accounts, was Christmas-day; but our accounts had so often been
+interrupted by our distresses, that there was no depending upon them. Upon
+seeing the yawl in this imminent danger, the barge stood off and went into
+another bay to the northward of it, where it was smoother lying; but there
+was no possibility of getting on shore. In the night the yawl joined us
+again.
+
+The next day was so bad, that we despaired reaching the head-land, so rowed
+down the bay in hopes of getting some seal, as that animal had been seen
+the day before, but met with no success; so returned to the same bay we had
+been in the night before, where the surf having abated somewhat, we went
+ashore and picked up a few shell-fish. In the morning we got on board
+early, and ran along shore to the westward for about three leagues, in
+order to get round a cape, which was the westernmost land we could see. It
+blew very hard, and there ran such a sea, that we heartily wished ourselves
+back again, and accordingly made the best of our way for that bay which we
+had left in the morning; but before we could reach it night came on, and we
+passed a most dismal one, lying upon our oars.
+
+The weather continuing very bad, we put in for the shore in the morning,
+where we found nothing but tangle and sea-weed. We now passed some days
+roving about for provisions, as the weather was too bad to make another
+attempt to get round the cape as yet. We found some fine lagoons towards
+the head of the bay, and in them killed some seal, and got a good quantity
+of shell-fish, which was a great relief to us. We now made a second attempt
+to double the cape; but when we got the length of it, and passed the first
+head-land, for it consists of three of an equal height, we got into a sea
+that was horrid, for it ran all in heaps like the Race of Portland, but
+much worse. We were happy to put back to the old place, with little hopes
+of ever getting round this cape.
+
+Next day, the weather proving very bad, all hands went ashore to procure
+some sustenance, except two in each boat, which were left as boat-keepers:
+this office we took by turns, and it was now my lot to be upon this duty
+with another man. The yawl lay within us at a grapnel; in the night it blew
+very hard, and a great sea tumbled in upon the shore; but being extremely
+fatigued, we in the boats went to sleep: notwithstanding, however, I was at
+last awakened by the uncommon motion of the boat, and the roaring of the
+breakers every where about us. At the same time I heard a shrieking, like
+to that of persons in distress; I looked out, and saw the yawl canted
+bottom upwards by a sea, and soon afterwards disappeared. One of our men,
+whose name was William Rose, a quarter-master, was drowned; the other was
+thrown ashore by the surf, with his head buried in the sand, but by the
+immediate assistance of the people on shore, was saved. As for us in the
+barge, we expected the same fate every moment, for the sea broke a long way
+without us. However, we got her head to it, and hove up our grapnel, or
+should rather say kellick, which we had made to serve in the room of our
+grapnel, hove overboard some time before to lighten the boat. By this means
+we used our utmost efforts to pull her without the breakers some way, and
+then let go our kellick again. Here we lay all the next day in a great sea,
+not knowing what would be our fate. To add to our mortification, we could
+see our companions in tolerable plight ashore, eating seal, while we were
+starving with hunger and cold. For this month past we had not known what it
+was to have a dry thread about us.
+
+The next day being something more moderate, we ventured in with the barge
+as near as we could to the shore, and our companions threw us some seals
+liver, which having eat greedily, we were seized with excessive sickness,
+which affected us so much that our skin peeled off from, head to foot.
+
+Whilst the people were on shore here, Mr Hamilton met with a large seal or
+sea-lion, and fired a brace of balls into him, upon which the animal turned
+upon him open-mouthed; but presently fixing his bayonet, he thrust it down
+its throat, with, a good part of the barrel of the gun, which the creature
+bit in two seemingly with as much ease as if it had been a twig.
+Notwithstanding the wounds it received, it eluded all farther efforts to
+kill it, and got clear off.
+
+I call this animal a large seal or sea-lion, because it resembles a seal in
+many particulars; but then it exceeds it so much in size, as to be
+sufficiently determined, by that distinction only, to be of another
+species. Mr Walter, in Lord Anson's voyage, has given a particular
+description of those which are seen about Juan Fernandes; but they have in
+other climates different appearances as well as different qualities, as we
+had occasion to observe in this and a late voyage I made. However, as so
+much already has been said of the sea-lion, I shall only mention two
+peculiarities, one relative to its appearance, and the other to its
+properties of action, which distinguish it from those described by him.
+Those I saw were without that snout or trunk hanging below the end of the
+upper jaw; but then the males were furnished with a large shaggy mane,
+which gave them a most formidable appearance. And, whereas, he says those
+he saw were unwieldy and easily destroyed, we found some, on the contrary,
+that lay at a mile's distance from the water, which came down upon us when
+disturbed with such impetuosity, that it was as much as we could do to get
+out of their way; and, when attacked, would turn upon us with, great
+agility.
+
+Having lost the yawl, and being too many for the barge to carry off, we
+were compelled to leave four of our men behind. They were all marines, who
+seemed to have no great objection to the determination made with regard to
+them, so exceedingly disheartened and worn out were they with the
+distresses and dangers they had already gone through. And, indeed, I
+believe it would have been a matter of indifference to the greatest part of
+the rest, whether they should embark or take their chance. The captain
+distributed to these poor fellows arms and ammunition, and some other
+necessaries. When we parted, they stood upon the beach, giving us three
+cheers, and called out, God bless the King! We saw them a little after
+setting out upon their forlorn hope, and helping one another over a hideous
+tract of rocks; but considering the difficulties attending this only way of
+travelling left them, for the woods are impracticable, from their thickness
+and the deep swamps every where to be met in them; considering too that the
+coast here is rendered so inhospitable by the heavy seas that are
+constantly tumbling upon it, as not to afford even a little shell-fish, it
+is probable that all met with a miserable end.
+
+We rowed along shore to the westward in order to make one more attempt to
+double the cape; when abreast of the first head-land, there ran such a sea
+that we expected every moment the boat would go down. But as the
+preservation of life had now in a great measure lost its actuating
+principle upon us, we still kept pushing through it, till we opened a bay
+to the northward. In all my life I never saw so dreadful a sea as drove in
+here; it began to break at more than half a mile from the shore. Perceiving
+now that it was impossible for any boat to get round, the men lay upon
+their oars till the boat was very near the breakers, the mountainous swell
+that then ran heaving her in at a great rate. I thought it was their
+intention to put an end to their lives and misery at once, but nobody spoke
+for some time. At last Captain Cheap told them they must either perish
+immediately, or pull stoutly for it to get off the shore, but they might do
+as they pleased. They chose, however, to exert themselves a little, and
+after infinite difficulty got round the head-land again, giving up all
+thoughts of making any further attempt to double the cape. It was night
+before we could get back to the bay, where we were compelled to leave four
+of our men, in order to save, if possible, the remainder; for we must all
+have certainly perished, if more than sixteen had been crowded into so
+small a boat: this bay we named Marine Bay. When we had returned to this
+bay, we found the surf ran so high, that we were obliged to lay upon our
+oars all night; and it was now resolved to go back to Wager's island, there
+to linger out a miserable life, as we had not the least prospect of
+returning home.
+
+But before we set out, in consequence of this resolution, it was necessary,
+if possible, to get some little stock of seal to support us in a passage,
+upon which, whenever we might put in, we were not likely to meet with any
+supply. Accordingly, it was determined to go up that lagoon, in which, we
+had before got some seal, to provide ourselves with some more, but we did
+not leave the bay till we had made some search after the unhappy marines we
+had left on shore. Could we have found them, we had now agreed to take them
+on board again, though it would have been the certain destruction of us
+all. This, at another time, would have been mere madness; but we were now
+resigned to our fate, which we none of us thought far off; however, there
+was nothing to be seen of them, and no traces but a musket on the beach.
+
+Upon returning up the lagoon, we were so fortunate as to kill some seal,
+which we boiled and laid in the boat for sea-stock. While we were ranging
+along shore in detached parties in quest of this and whatever other eatable
+might come in our way, our surgeon, who was then by himself, discovered a
+pretty large hole, which seemed to lead to some den or repository within
+the rocks. It was not so rude or natural, but that there were some signs of
+its having been cleared and made more accessible by industry. The surgeon
+for some time hesitated whether he should venture in, from his uncertainty
+as to the reception he might meet with from any inhabitant; but his
+curiosity getting the better of his fears, he determined to go in, which he
+did upon his hands and knees, as the passage was too low for him to enter
+otherwise.
+
+After having proceeded a considerable way thus, he arrived at a spacious
+chamber, but whether hollowed out by hands, or natural, he could not be
+positive. The light into this chamber was conveyed through a hole at the
+top; in the midst was a kind of bier, made of sticks laid crossways,
+supported by props of about five feet in height. Upon this bier five or six
+bodies were extended, which, in appearance, had been deposited there a long
+time, but had suffered no decay or diminution. They were without covering,
+and the flesh of their bodies was become perfectly dry and hard, which
+whether done by any art or secret the savages may be possessed of, or
+occasioned by any drying virtue in the air of the cave, could not be
+guessed. Indeed, the surgeon finding nothing there to eat, which was his
+chief inducement for his creeping into this hole, did not amuse himself
+with long disquisitions, or make that accurate examination which he would
+have done at another time; but crawling out as he came in, he went and told
+the first he met of what he had seen. Some had the curiosity to go in
+likewise.
+
+I had forgot to mention that there was another range of bodies deposited in
+the same manner upon another platform under the bier. Probably this was the
+burial-place of their great men called Caciques; but from whence they could
+be brought we were utterly at a loss to conceive, there being no traces of
+any Indian settlement hereabout. We had seen no savages since we left the
+island, or observed any marks in the coves or bays to the northward where
+we had touched, such as of fire-places or old wig-wams, which they never
+fail of leaving behind them; and it is very probable, from the violent seas
+that are always beating upon this coast, its deformed aspect, and the very
+swampy soil that every where borders upon it, that it is little frequented.
+
+We now crossed the first bay for the head-land we left on Christmas-day,
+much dejected; for under our former sufferings we were in some measure
+supported with the hopes, that as we advanced, however little, they were so
+much the nearer their termination; but now our prospect was dismal and
+dispiriting indeed, as we had the same difficulties and dangers to
+encounter, not only without any flattering views to lessen them, but under
+the aggravating circumstance of their leading to an inevitable and
+miserable death; for we could not possibly conceive that the fate of
+starving could be avoided by any human means, upon, that desolate island we
+were returning to. The shell-fish, which was the only subsistence that
+island had hitherto afforded in any measure, was exhausted; and the Indians
+had shewn themselves so little affected by the common incitements of
+compassion, that we had no hopes to build upon any impressions of that sort
+in them. They had already refused to barter their dogs with us, for want of
+a valuable commodity on our side; so that it is wonderful we did not give
+ourselves up to despondency, and lay aside all farther attempts; but we
+were supported by that invisible Power, who can make the most untoward
+circumstances subservient to his gracious purposes.
+
+At this time our usual bad weather attended us; the night too set in long
+before we could reach the cove we before had taken shelter in, so that we
+were obliged to keep the boat's head to the sea all night, the sea every
+where astern of us running over hideous breakers. In the morning, we
+designed standing over for that island in which we had observed those
+strait and lofty trees before-mentioned, and which Captain Cheap named
+Montrose Island; but as soon as we opened the head-land to the westward of
+us, a sudden squall took the boat, and very near overset her. We were
+instantly full of water; but by baling with our hats and hands, and any
+thing that would hold water, we with difficulty freed her. Under this
+alarming circumstance, we found it advisable to return back and put in to
+the cove which the night before we were prevented getting into. We were
+detained here two or three days by exceeding bad weather, so that had we
+not fortunately provided ourselves with some seal, we must have starved,
+for this place afforded us nothing.
+
+At length we reached Montrose Island. This is by much the best and
+pleasantest spot we had seen in this part of the world, though it has
+nothing on it eatable but some berries, which resemble goose-berries in
+flavour: they are of a black hue, and grow in swampy ground; and the bush
+or tree that bears them, is much taller than that of our goose berries. We
+remained here some time, living upon these berries and the remainder of our
+seal, which was now grown quite rotten. Our two or three first attempts to
+put out from this island were without success, the tempestuous weather
+obliging us to put back again. One of our people was much inclined to
+remain here, thinking it at least as good a place as Wager's Island to end
+his days upon; but he was obliged by the rest to go off with them. We had
+not been long out before it began to blow a storm of wind; and the mist
+came on so thick, that we could not see the land, and were at a loss which
+way to steer; but we heard the sea, which ran exceedingly high, breaking
+near us, upon which we immediately hauled aft the sheet, and hardly
+weathered the breakers by a boat's length. At the same time we shipped a
+sea that nearly filled us; it struck us with that violence as to throw me
+and one or two more down into the bottom of the boat, where we were half
+drowned before we could get up again. This was one of the most
+extraordinary escapes we had in the course of this expedition; for Captain
+Cheap and every one else had entirely given themselves up for lost.
+However, it pleased God that we got that evening into Red-wood Cove, where
+the weather continued so bad all night we could keep no fire in to dry
+ourselves with; but there being no other alternative for us but to stay
+here and starve, or put to sea again, we chose the latter, and put out in
+the morning again, though the weather was very little mended.
+
+In three or four days after, we arrived at our old station, Wager's Island,
+but in such a miserable plight, that though we thought our condition upon
+setting out would not admit of any additional circumstance of misery, yet
+it was to be envied in comparison of what we now suffered, so worn and
+reduced were we by fatigue and hunger, having eat nothing for some days but
+sea-weed and tangle. Upon this expedition, we had been out, by our account,
+just two months; in which we had rounded, backwards and forwards, the great
+bay formed to the northward by that high land we had observed from Mount
+Misery.
+
+The first thing we did upon our arrival was to secure the barge, as this
+was our sole dependence for any relief that might offer by sea; which done,
+we repaired to our huts, which formed a kind of village or street,
+consisting of several irregular habitations, some of which being covered by
+a kind of brush-wood thatch, afforded tolerable shelter against the
+inclemency of the weather. Among these, there was one which we observed
+with some surprise to be nailed up. We broke it open, and found some iron-
+work, picked out with much pains from those pieces of the wreck which, were
+driven ashore. We concluded from hence, that the Indians who had been here
+in our absence were not of that tribe with which we had some commerce
+before, who seemed to set no value upon iron, but from some other quarter;
+and must have had communication with the Spaniards, from whom they had
+learned the value and use of that commodity.
+
+Thieving from strangers is a commendable talent among savages in general,
+and bespeaks an address which they much admire; though the strictest
+honesty with regard to the property of each other is observed among them.
+There is no doubt but they ransacked all our houses, but the men had taken
+care before they went off in the long-boat to strip them of their most
+valuable furniture, that is, the bales of cloth used for lining, and
+converted them into trowsers and watch-coats. Upon farther search, we
+found, thrown aside in the bushes at the back of one of the huts, some
+pieces of seal in a very putrid condition, which, however, our stomachs
+were far from loathing. The next business which the people set about very
+seriously, was to proceed to Mount Misery, and bury the corpse of the
+murdered person mentioned to have been discovered there some little time
+after our being cast away; for to the neglect of this necessary tribute to
+that unfortunate person the men assigned all their ill success upon the
+late expedition.
+
+That common people in general are addicted to superstitious conceits, is an
+observation founded on experience, and the reason is evident; but I cannot
+allow that common seamen are more so than others of the lower class. In the
+most enlightened ages of antiquity, we find it to have been the popular
+opinion, that the spirits of the dead were not at rest till their bodies
+were interred; and that they did not cease to haunt and trouble those who
+had neglected this duty to the departed. This is still believed by the
+vulgar in most countries; and in our men this persuasion was much
+heightened by the melancholy condition they were reduced to, and was
+farther confirmed by an occurrence which happened some little time before
+we went upon our last expedition. One night we were alarmed with a strange
+cry, which resembled that of a man drowning. Many of us ran out of our huts
+towards the place from whence the noise proceeded, which was not far off
+shore, where we could perceive, but not distinctly, (for it was then
+moonlight) an appearance like that of a man swimming half out of water. The
+noise that this creature uttered was so unlike that of any animal they had
+heard before, that it made a great impression upon the men; and they
+frequently recalled this apparition at the time of their distresses, with
+reflections on the neglect of the office they were now fulfilling.
+
+We were soon driven again to the greatest straits for want of something to
+subsist upon, by the extreme bad weather that now set in upon us. Wild
+sellery was all we could procure, which raked our stomachs instead of
+assuaging our hunger. That dreadful and last resource of men, in not much
+worse circumstances than ours, of consigning one man to death for the
+support of the rest, began to be mentioned in whispers; and indeed there
+were some among as who, by eating what they found raw, were become little
+better than cannibals. But fortunately for us, and opportunely to prevent
+this horrid proceeding, Mr Hamilton at this time found some rotten pieces
+of beef cast up by the sea at some miles distance from the huts, which he,
+though a temptation which few would have resisted in parallel
+circumstances, scorned to conceal from the rest, but generously distributed
+among us.
+
+A few days after, the mystery of the nailing up of the hut, and what had
+been doing by the Indians upon the island in our absence, was partly
+explained to us; for about the 15th day after our return, there came a
+party of Indians to the island in two canoes, who were not a little
+surprised to find us here again. Among these, was an Indian of the tribe of
+the Chonos, who live in the neighbourhood of Chiloe.[117] He talked the
+Spanish language, but with that savage accent which renders it almost
+unintelligible to any but those who are adepts in that language. He was
+likewise a cacique, or leading man of his tribe, which authority was
+confirmed to him by the Spaniards; for he carried the usual badge and mark
+of distinction by which the Spaniards and their dependants hold their
+military and civil employments, which is a stick with a silver head. These
+badges, of which the Indians are very vain, at once serve to retain the
+cacique in the strongest attachment to the Spanish government, and give him
+greater weight with his own dependants: yet, withal, he is the merest
+slave, and has not one thing he can call his own.
+
+This report of our shipwreck (as we supposed) having reached the Chonos, by
+means of the intermediate tribes, which handed it to one another from those
+Indians who first visited us, this cacique was either sent to learn the
+truth of the rumour, or, having first got the intelligence, set out with a
+view of making some advantage of the wreck, and appropriating such iron-
+work as he could gather from it to his own use; for that metal is become
+very valuable to those savages, since their commerce with the Spaniards has
+taught them to apply it to several purposes. But as the secreting any thing
+from a rapacious Spanish rey or governor (even an old rusty nail) by any of
+their Indian dependants, is a very dangerous offence, he was careful to
+conceal the little prize he had made till he could conveniently carry it
+away; for in order to make friends of these savages, we had left their
+hoard untouched.
+
+Our surgeon, Mr Elliot, being master of a few Spanish words, made himself
+so far understood by the cacique, as to let him know that our intention was
+to reach some of the Spanish settlements if we could; that we were
+unacquainted with the best and safest way, and what track was most likely
+to afford us subsistence in our journey; promising, if he would undertake
+to conduct us in the barge, he should have it and every thing in it for his
+trouble as soon as it had served our present occasions. To these conditions
+the cacique, after much persuasion, at length agreed. Accordingly, having
+made the best preparation we could, we embarked on board the barge to the
+number of fifteen, including the cacique, whose name was Martin, and his
+servant Emanuel. We were, indeed, sixteen when we returned from our last
+fruitless attempt to get off the island, but we had buried two since that,
+who perished with hunger; and a marine, having committed theft, ran away to
+avoid the punishment his crime deserved, and hid himself in the woods,
+since which he was never heard of. We now put off, accompanied with the two
+Indian canoes, in one of which was a savage with his two wives, who had an
+air of dignity superior to the rest, and was handsome in his person. He had
+his hut, during his stay with us, separate from the other Indians, who
+seemed to pay him extraordinary respect; but in two or three nights, these
+Indians, being independent of the Spaniards, and living somewhere to the
+southward of our Chonos guide, left us to proceed on our journey by
+ourselves.
+
+The first night we lay at an island destitute of all refreshment, where
+having found some shelter for our boat and made ourselves a fire, we slept
+by it. The next night we were more unfortunate, though our wants were
+increasing, for, having run to the westward of Montrose Island, we found no
+shelter for the barge, but were under the necessity of lying upon our oars,
+suffering the most extreme pangs of hunger. The next day brought us to the
+bottom of a great bay, where the Indian guide had left his family, a wife
+and two children, in a hut. Here we staid two or three days, during which
+we were constantly employed in ranging along shore in quest of shell-fish.
+
+
+[117] Chiloe is an island on the western coast of America, situated in 42 deg.
+    40 of S. latitude, and the southernmost settlement under the Spanish
+    jurisdiction on that coast.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+
+Navigation of the River.--One of our Men dies from Fatigue.--Inhumanity of
+the Captain.--Description of our Passage through a horrible and desolate
+Country.--Our Conductor leaves us, and a Party of our Men desert with the
+Boat.--Dreadful Situation of the Remainder.--The Cacique returns.--Account
+of our Journey Overland.--Kindness of two Indian Women.--Description of the
+Indian Mode of Fishing.--Cruel Treatment of my Indian Benefactress by her
+Husband.
+
+
+We now again proceeded on our voyage, having received on board the family
+of our guide, who conducted us to a river, the stream of which was so
+rapid, that, after our almost efforts from morning to evening, we gained
+little upon the current, and at last were obliged to desist from our
+attempt, and return. I had hitherto steered the boat, but one of our men
+sinking under the fatigue, expired soon after, which obliged me to take the
+oar in his room, and row against this heart-breaking stream. Whilst I was
+thus employed, one of our men, whose name was John Bosman, though hitherto
+the stoutest man among us, fell from his seat under the thwarts,
+complaining that his strength was quite exhausted for want of food, and
+that he should die very shortly. As he lay in this condition, he would
+every now and then break out in the most pathetic wishes for some little
+sustenance, that two or three monthfuls might be the means of saving his
+life. The captain at this time had a large piece of boiled seal by him, and
+was the only one that was provided with any thing like a meal; but we were
+become so hardened against the impressions of others sufferings by our own,
+so familiarized to scenes of this and every other kind of misery, that the
+poor man's dying entreaties were vain. I sat next to him when he dropped,
+and having a few dried shell-fish (about five or six) in my pocket, from
+time to time put one in his mouth, which served only to prolong his pains;
+from which, however, soon after my little supply failed, he was released by
+death. For this, and another man I mentioned a little before to have
+expired under the like circumstances, when we returned from this
+unsuccessful enterprize, we made a grave in the sands.
+
+It would have redounded greatly to the tenderness and humanity of Captain
+Cheap, if at this time he had remitted somewhat of that attention he shewed
+to self-preservation, which is hardly allowable but where the consequence
+of relieving others must be immediately and manifestly fatal to ourselves;
+but I would venture to affirm, that in these last affecting exigencies, as
+well as some others, a sparing perhaps adequate to the emergency, might
+have been admitted consistently with a due regard to his own necessities.
+The captain had better opportunities of recruiting his stock than any of
+us; for his rank was considered by the Indians a reason for supplying him
+when he would not find a bit for us. Upon the evening of the day in which
+these disasters happened, the captain producing a large piece of boiled
+seal, suffered no one to partake with him but the surgeon, who was the only
+man in favour at this time. We did not expect, indeed, any relief from him
+in our present condition, for we had a few small mussels and herbs to eat;
+but the men could not help expressing the greatest indignation at his
+neglect of the deceased, saying, that he deserved to be deserted by the
+rest for his savage behaviour.
+
+The endeavouring to pass up this river was for us, who had so long
+struggled with hunger, a most unseasonable attempt, by which we were
+harassed to a degree that threatened to be fatal to more of us; but our
+guide, without any respect to the condition our hardships had reduced us
+to, was very solicitous for us to go that way, which possibly he had gone
+before in light canoes, but for such a boat as ours, was impracticable. We
+conceived, therefore, at that time, that this was some short cut, which was
+to bring us forward in our voyage; but we had reason to think afterwards,
+that the greater probability there was of his getting the barge, which was
+the wages of his undertaking, safe to his settlement by this, rather than
+another course, was his motive for preferring it to the way we took
+afterwards, where there was a carrying place of considerable length, over
+which it would have been impossible to have carried our boat.
+
+The country hereabouts wears the most uncouth, desolate, and rugged aspect
+imaginable; it is so circumstanced as to discourage the most sanguine
+adventurers from attempts to settle in it: Were it for no other reason than
+the constant heavy rains, or rather torrents, which pour down here, and the
+vast sea and surf which the prevailing westerly winds impel upon this
+coast, it must be rendered inhospitable. All entrance into the woods is not
+only extremely difficult, but hazardous, not from any assaults you are
+likely to meet with from wild beasts, for even these could hardly find
+convenient harbour here, but from the deep swamp, which is the reigning
+soil of this country, and in which the woods may be said rather to float
+than grow; so that, except upon a range of deformed broken rocks which form
+the sea-coast, the traveller cannot find sound footing any where. With this
+unpromising scene before us we were now setting out in search of food,
+which nothing but the most pressing instances of hunger could induce us to
+do: We had, indeed, the young Indian servant to our cacique for our
+conductor, who was left by him to show us where the shell-fish was most
+plenty. The cacique was gone with the rest of his family in the canoe, with
+a view of getting some seal, upon a trip which would detain him from us
+three or four days.
+
+After searching the coast some time with very little success, we began to
+think of returning to the barge; but six of the men, with the Indian,
+having advanced some few paces before the officers, got into the boat
+first, which they had no sooner done than they put off and left us, to
+return no more. And now all the difficulties we had hitherto endured seemed
+light in comparison of what we expected to suffer from this treachery of
+our men, who, with the boat, had taken away every thing that might be the
+means of preserving our lives. The little clothes we had saved from the
+wreck, our muskets and ammunition, were gone, except a little powder, which
+must be preserved for kindling fires, and one gun which I had, and was now
+become useless for want of ammunition; and all these wants were now come
+upon us at a time when we could not be worse situated for supplying them.
+Yet under these dismal and forlorn appearances was our delivery now
+preparing; and from these hopeless circumstances were we to draw hereafter
+an instance scarce to be paralleled, of the unsearchable ways of
+Providence.
+
+It was at that time little suspected by us, that the barge, in which we
+founded all our hopes of escaping from this savage coast, would certainly
+have proved the fatal cause of detaining us till we were consumed by the
+labour and hardships requisite to row her round the capes and great
+headlands; for it was impossible to carry her by land as we did the boats
+of the Indians. At present, no condition could be worse than we thought
+ours to be: There ran at this time a very high sea, which breaking with
+great fury upon this coast, made it very improbable that sustenance in any
+proportion to our wants could be found upon it; yet unpromising as this
+prospect was, and though little succour could be expected from this
+quarter, I could not help, as I strolled along shore from the rest, casting
+my eyes towards the sea. Continuing thus to look out, I thought I saw
+something now and then upon the top of a sea that looked black, which, upon
+observing still more intently, I imagined at last to be a canoe; but
+reflecting afterwards how unusual it was for Indians to venture out in so
+mountainous a sea, and at such a distance from the land, I concluded myself
+to be deceived. However, its nearer approach convinced me, beyond all
+doubt, of its being a canoe; but that it could not put in any where
+hereabouts, but intended for some other part of the coast. I ran back as
+fast as I could to my companions, and acquainted them with what I had seen.
+
+The despondency they were in would not allow them to give credit to it at
+first; but afterwards, being convinced that it was as I reported it, we
+were all in the greatest hurry to strip off some of our rags to make a
+signal withal, which we fixed upon a long pole. This had the desired
+effect: The people in the canoe seeing the signal, made towards the land at
+about two miles distance from us, for no boat could approach the land where
+we were. There they put into a small cove, sheltered by a large ledge of
+rocks without, which broke the violence of the sea. Captain Cheap and I
+walked along shore, and got to the cove about the time they landed. Here we
+found the persons arrived in this canoe to be our Indian guide and his
+wife, who had left us some days before. He would have asked us many
+questions, but neither Captain Cheap nor I understanding Spanish at that
+time, we took him along with us to the surgeon, whom we had left so ill
+that he could hardly raise himself from the ground.
+
+When the Indian began to confer with the surgeon, the first question was,
+What was become of the barge and his companions? and as he could give him
+no satisfactory answer to this question, the Indian took it for granted
+that Emanuel was murdered by us, and that he and his family ran the same
+risk; upon which he was preparing to provide for his security, by leaving
+us directly. The surgeon seeing this, did all in his power to pacify him,
+and convince him of the unreasonableness of his apprehensions, which he at
+length found means to do, by assuring him that the Indian would come to no
+harm, but that he would soon see him return safe: which providentially, and
+beyond our expectation, happened accordingly, for in a few days after,
+Emanuel, having contrived to make his escape from the people in the barge,
+returned by ways that were impassable to any creature but an Indian. All
+that we could learn from Emanuel relative to his escape was, that he took
+the first opportunity of leaving them, which was upon their putting into a
+bay somewhere to the westward.
+
+We had but one gun among us, and that was a small fowling-piece of mine; no
+ammunition but a few charges of powder I had about me; and as the Indian
+was very desirous of returning to the place where he had left his wife and
+canoe, Captain Cheap desired I would go with him and watch over him all
+night, to prevent his getting away. Accordingly I set out with him, and
+when he and his family betook themselves to rest in the little wigwam they
+had made for that purpose, I kept my station as centinel over them all
+night.
+
+The next morning Captain Cheap, Mr Hamilton, and the surgeon joined us; the
+latter, by illness, being reduced to the most feeble condition, was
+supported by Mr Hamilton and Mr Campbell. After holding some little
+consultation together, as to the best manner of proceeding in our journey,
+it was agreed, that the Indian should haul his canoe, with our assistance,
+over land, quite across the island we were then upon, and put her into a
+bay on the other side, from whence he was to go in quest of some other
+Indians by whom he expected to be joined; but as his canoe was too small to
+carry more than three or four persons, he thought it advisable to take only
+Captain Cheap and myself with him, and to leave his wife and children as
+pledges with our companions till his return.
+
+As it was matter of uncertainty whether we should ever recover the barge or
+not, which was stipulated, on our side, to become the property of the
+cacique upon his fulfilling his engagements with us; the inducements we now
+made use of to prevail upon him to proceed with us in our journey were,
+that he should have my fowling-piece, some little matters in the possession
+of Captain Cheap, and that we would use our interest to procure him some
+small pecuniary reward.
+
+We were now to set off in the canoe, in which I was to assist him in
+rowing. Accordingly, putting from this island, we rowed hard all this day
+and the next, without any thing to eat but a scrap of seal, a very small
+portion of which fell to my share. About two hours after the close of the
+day, we put ashore, where we discovered six or seven wigwams. For my part,
+my strength was so exhausted with fatigue and hunger, that it would have
+been impossible for me to have held out another day at this toilsome work.
+As soon as we landed, the Indian conducted Captain Cheap with him into a
+wigwam, but I was left to shift for myself.
+
+Thus left, I was for some time at a loss what I had best do, for knowing
+that in the variety of dispositions observable among the Indians, the surly
+and savage temper is the most prevalent, I had good reason to conclude,
+that if I obtruded myself upon them, my reception would be but indifferent.
+Necessity, however, put me upon the risk; I accordingly pushed into the
+next wigwam upon my hands and knees, for the entrance into these kind of
+buildings is too low to admit of any other manner of getting into them. To
+give a short description of these temporary houses called wigwams, may not
+be improper here, for the satisfaction of those who never saw any,
+especially as they differ somewhat from those of North America, which are
+more generally known from the numerous accounts of that country.
+
+When the Indians of this part of the world have occasion to stop any where
+in their rambles, if it be only for a night or two, the men, who take this
+business upon them, while the women are employed in much more laborious
+offices, such as diving in the sea for sea-eggs, and searching the rocks
+for shell-fish, getting fuel, &c., repair to the woods, and cutting a
+sufficient number of tall strait branches, fix them in an irregular kind of
+circle of uncertain dimensions; which having done, they bend the
+extremities of these branches so as to meet in a centre at top, where they
+bind them by a kind of woodbine called supple-jack, which they split by
+holding it in their teeth. This frame, or skeleton of a hut, is made tight
+against the weather with a covering of boughs and bark; but as the bark is
+not got without some trouble, they generally take it with them when they
+remove, putting it at the bottom of their canoes: The rest of the wigwam
+they leave standing. The fire is made in the middle of the wigwam, round
+which they sit upon boughs; and as there is no vent for the smoke besides
+the door-way, which is very low, except through some crevices which cannot
+easily be stopped, they are not a little incommoded on that account, and
+the eyes of some of them are much affected by it.
+
+But to return. In this wigwam, into which I took the liberty to introduce
+myself, I found only two women, who, upon first seeing a figure they were
+not accustomed to, and such a figure too as I then made, were struck with
+astonishment. They were sitting by a fire, to which I approached without
+any apology. However inclined I might have been to make one, my ignorance
+of their language made it impossible to attempt it. One of these women
+appeared to be young, and very handsome for an Indian; the other old, and
+as frightful as it is possible to conceive any thing in human shape to be.
+Having stared at me some little time, they both went out; and I, without
+farther ceremony, sat me down by the fire to warm myself and dry the rags I
+wore. Yet I cannot say my situation was very easy, as I expected every
+instant to see two or three men come in and thrust me out, if they did not
+deal with me in a rougher manner.
+
+Soon after, the two women came in again, having, as I supposed, conferred
+with the Indian our conductor; and, appearing to be in great good humour,
+began to chatter and laugh immoderately. Perceiving the wet and cold
+condition I was in, they seemed to have compassion on me, and the old woman
+went out and brought some wood, with which she made a good fire; but my
+hunger being impatient, I could not forbear expressing my desire that they
+would extend their hospitality a little farther, and bring me something so
+eat. They soon comprehended my meaning, and the younger beginning to
+rummage under some pieces of bark that lay in the corner of the wigwam,
+produced a fine large fish; this they presently put upon the fire to broil,
+and when it was just warm through, they made a sign for me to eat. They had
+no need to repeat the invitation; I fell to, and dispatched it in so short
+a time, that I was in hopes they would comprehend, without further tokens,
+that I was ready for another; but it was of no consequence, for their stock
+of eatables was entirely exhausted.
+
+After sitting some time in conference together, in which conversation I
+could bear no part, the women made some signs to me to lay down and go to
+sleep, first having strewed some dry boughs upon the ground. I laid myself
+down, and soon fell fast asleep; and about three or four hours after
+awaking, I found myself covered with a bit of blanket, made of the down of
+birds, which the women usually wear about their waist. The young woman, who
+had carefully covered me, whilst sleeping, with her own blanket, was lying
+close by me; the old woman lay on the other side of her. The fire was low
+and almost burnt out; but as soon as they found me awake they renewed it,
+by putting on more fuel. What I had hitherto eat served only to sharpen my
+appetite; I could not help, therefore, being earnest with them to get me
+some more victuals. Having understood my necessities, they talked together
+some little time; after which getting up, they both went out, taking with
+them a couple of dogs, which they train to assist them in fishing. After an
+hour's absence they came in trembling with cold, and their hair streaming
+with water, and brought two fish, which having broiled, they gave me the
+largest share, and then we all lay down as before to rest.
+
+In the morning, my curiosity led me to visit the neighbouring wigwams, in
+which were only one or two men, the rest of the inhabitants were all women
+and children. I then proceeded to enquire after Captain Cheap and our
+Indian guide, whom I found in the wigwam they at first occupied: The
+authority of the cacique had procured the captain no despicable
+entertainment. We could not learn what business the men, whose wives and
+children were here left behind, were gone out upon; but as they seldom or
+never go upon fishing parties (for they have no hunting here) without their
+wives, who take the most laborious part of this pursuit upon themselves, it
+is probable they were gone upon some warlike expedition, in which they use
+bows and arrows sometimes, but always the lance. This weapon they throw
+with great dexterity and force, and never stir abroad without it.
+
+About this time their return was looked for, a hearing by no means pleasant
+to me; I was therefore determined to enjoy myself as long as they were
+absent, and make the most of the good fare I was possessed of, to the
+pleasure of which I thought a little cleanliness might in some measure
+contribute; I therefore went to a brook, and taking off my shirt, which
+might be said to be alive with vermin, set myself about to wash it; which
+having done as well as I could, and hung on a bush to dry, I heard a bustle
+about the wigwams, and soon perceived that the women were preparing to
+depart, having stripped their wigwams of their bark covering, and carried
+it into their canoes. Putting on, therefore, my shirt just as it was, I
+hastened to join them, having a great desire of being present at one of
+their fishing parties.
+
+It was my lot to be put into the canoe with my two patronesses and some
+others who assisted in rowing; we were in all four canoes. After rowing
+some time, they gained such an offing as they required, where the water
+here was about eight or ten fathoms deep, and there lay upon their oars.
+And now the youngest of the two women, taking a basket in her mouth, jumped
+overboard, and diving to the bottom, continued under water an amazing time;
+when she had filled the basket with sea-eggs, she came up to the boat-side,
+and delivering it so filled to the other women in the boat, they took out
+the contents and returned it to her. The diver then, after having taken a
+short time to breathe, went down and up again with the same success, and so
+several times for the space of half an hour. It seems as if Providence had
+endued this people with a kind of amphibious nature, as the sea is the only
+source from whence almost all their subsistence is derived. This element
+too, being here very boisterous, and falling with a most heavy surf upon a
+rugged coast, very little, except some seal, is to be got any where but in
+the quiet bosom of the deep. What occasions this reflection, is the early
+propensity I had so frequently observed in the children of these savages to
+this occupation, who, even at the age of three years, might be seen
+crawling upon their hands and knees among the rocks and breakers, from
+which they would tumble themselves into the sea without regard to the cold,
+which is here often intense, and shewing no fear of the noise and roaring
+of the surf.
+
+This sea-egg is a shell-fish, from which several prickles project in all
+directions, by means whereof it removes itself from place to place. In it
+are found four or five yolks, resembling the inner divisions of an orange,
+which are of a very nutritive quality and excellent flavour.
+
+The water was at this time extremely cold, and when the divers got into the
+boats, they seemed greatly benumbed; and it is usual with them after this
+exercise, if they are near enough their wigwams, to run to the fire, to
+which presenting one side, they rub and chafe it for some time; then
+turning the other, use it in the same manner till the circulation of the
+blood is restored. This practice, if it has no worse effect, must occasion
+their being more susceptible of the impressions of cold than if they waited
+the gradual advances of their natural warmth in the open air. I leave it to
+the decision of the gentlemen of the faculty, whether this too hasty
+approach to the fire may not subject them to a disorder I have observed
+among them, called the elephantiasis, or swelling of the legs.[118]
+
+The divers having returned to their boats, we continued to row till towards
+evening, when we landed upon a low point. As soon as the canoes were hauled
+up, they employed themselves in erecting their wigwams, which they dispatch
+with great address and quickness. I still enjoyed the protection of my two
+good Indian women, who made me their guest here as before; they first
+regaled me with sea-eggs, and then went out upon another kind of fishery by
+the means of dogs and nets. These dogs are a cur-like looking animal, but
+very sagacious, and easily trained to this business. Though in appearance
+an uncomfortable sort of sport, yet they engage in it readily, seem to
+enjoy it much, and express their eagerness by barking every time they raise
+their heads above the water to breathe. The net is held by two Indians, who
+get into the water; then the dogs, taking a large compass, dive after the
+fish, and drive them into the net; but it is only in particular places that
+the fish are taken in this manner. At the close of the evening, the women
+brought in two fish, which served us for supper, and then we reposed
+ourselves as before. Here we remained all the next day, and the morning
+after embarked again, and rowed till noon; then landing, we descried the
+canoes of the Indian men, who had been some time expected from an
+expedition they had been upon. This was soon to make a great alteration in
+the situation of my affairs, a presage of which I could read in the
+melancholy countenance of my young hostess. She endeavoured to express
+herself in very earnest terms to me, but I had not yet acquired a competent
+knowledge of the Indian language to understand her.
+
+As soon as the men were landed, she and the old Indian woman went up, not
+without some marks of dread upon them, to an elderly Indian man, whose
+remarkably surly and stern countenance was well calculated to raise such
+sensations in his dependants. He seemed to be a cacique or chief man among
+them, by the airs of importance he assumed to himself, and the deference
+paid him by the rest. After some little conference passed between these
+Indians and our cacique conductor, of which, most probably, the
+circumstances of our history and the occasion of our coming here might be
+the chief subject, for they fixed their eyes constantly upon us, they
+applied themselves to building their wigwams.
+
+I now understood that the two Indian women with whom I had sojourned were
+wives to this chieftain, though one was young enough to be his daughter;
+and as far as I could learn, did really stand in the different relations to
+him both of daughter and wife. It was easy to be perceived that all did not
+go well between them at this time, either that he was not satisfied with
+the answers that they returned him to his questions, or that he suspected
+some misconduct on their side; for presently after breaking out into savage
+fury, he took the young one up in his arms, and threw her with violence
+against the stones; but his brutal resentment did not stop here, he beat
+her afterwards in a cruel manner. I could not see this treatment of my
+benefactress without the highest concern for her, and rage against the
+author of it; especially as the natural jealousy of these people gave
+occasion to think that it was on my account she suffered. I could hardly
+suppress the first emotions of my resentment, which prompted me to return
+him his barbarity in his own kind; but besides that this might have drawn
+upon her fresh marks of his severity, it was neither politic, nor indeed in
+my power to have done it to any good purpose at this time.
+
+
+[118] There are two very different disorders incident to the human body,
+    which bear the same name, derived from some resemblance they hold with
+    different parts of the animal so well known in the countries to which
+    these disorders are peculiar. That which was first so named is the
+    leprosy, which brings a scurf on the skin not unlike the hide of an
+    elephant. The other affects the patient with such enormous swelling of
+    the legs and feet, that they give the idea of those shapeless pillars
+    which support that creature; and therefore this disease has also been
+    called elephantiasis by the Arabian physicians; who, together with the
+    Malabrians, among whom it is endemial, attribute it to the drinking
+    bad waters, and the too sudden transitions from heat to cold.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+
+The Cacique's Conduct changes.--Description of the Indian Mode of
+Bird-fowling.--Their Religion.--Mr Elliot, our Surgeon, dies.--Transactions
+on our Journey.--Miserable Situation to which we are reduced.
+
+
+Our cacique now made us understand that we must embark directly in the same
+canoe which brought us, and return to our companions; and that the Indians
+we were about to leave would join us in a few days, when we should all set
+out in a body, in order to proceed to the northward. In our way back
+nothing very material happened; but upon our arrival, which was the next
+day, we found Mr Elliot, the surgeon, in a very bad way; his illness had
+been continually increasing since we left him. Mr Hamilton and Mr Campbell
+were almost starved, having fared very ill since we left them; a few sea-
+eggs were all the subsistence they had lived upon, and these procured by
+the cacique's wife in the manner I mentioned before. This woman was the
+very reverse of my hostess; and as she found her husband was of so much
+consequence to us, took upon her with much haughtiness, and treated us as
+dependants and slaves. He was not more engaging in his carriage towards us;
+he would give no part of what he had to spare to any but Captain Cheap,
+whom his interest led him to prefer to the rest, though our wants were
+often greater. The captain, on his part, contributed to keep us in this
+abject situation, by approving this distinction the cacique shewed to him.
+Had he treated us with not quite so much distance, the cacique might have
+been more regardful of our wants. The little regard and attention which our
+necessitous condition drew from Captain Cheap, may be imputed likewise, in
+some measure, to the effects of a mind soured by a series of crosses and
+disappointments; which, indeed, had operated on us all to a great neglect
+of each other, and sometimes of ourselves.
+
+We were not suffered to be in the same wigwam with the cacique and his
+wife, which, if we had had any countenance from Captain Cheap, would not
+have been refused. What we had made for ourselves was in such a bungling
+manner, that it scarce deserved the name even of this wretched sort of
+habitation. But our untoward circumstances now found some relief in the
+arrival of the Indians we waited for, who brought with them some seal, a
+small portion of which fell to our share. A night or two after, they sent
+out some of their young men, who procured us a quantity of a very delicate
+kind of birds, called shags and cormorants. Their manner of taking these
+birds resembles something a sport called bat-fowling. They find out their
+haunts among the rocks and cliffs in the night, when, taking with them
+torches made of the bark of the birch tree, which is common here, and grows
+to a very large size, (this bark has a very unctuous qaality, and emits a
+bright and clear light, and in the northern parts of America is used
+frequently instead of a candle) they bring the boat's side as near as
+possible to the rocks, under the roosting-places of these birds, then
+waving their lights backwards and forwards, the birds are dazzled and
+confounded so as to fall into the canoe, where they are instantly knocked
+on the head with a short stick the Indians take with them for that purpose.
+
+Seal are taken in some less-frequented parts of these coasts with great
+ease; but when their haunts have been two or three times disturbed, they
+soon learn to provide for their safety, by repairing to the water upon the
+first alarm. This is the case with them hereabouts; but as they frequently
+raise their heads above water, either to breathe or look about them, I have
+seen an Indian at this interval throw his lance with such dexterity, as to
+strike the animal through both its eyes at a great distance; and it is very
+seldom that they miss their aim.
+
+As we were wholly unacquainted with these methods of providing food for
+ourselves, and were without arms and ammunition, we were drove to the
+utmost straits, and found ourselves rather in worse condition than we had
+been at any time before; for the Indians, having now nothing to fear from
+us, we found we had nothing to expect from them upon any other motive.
+Accordingly, if they ever did relieve us, it was through caprice; for at
+most times, they would shew themselves unconcerned at our greatest
+distresses. But the good Indian women, whose friendship I had experienced
+before, continued, from time to time, their good offices to me. Though I
+was not suffered to enter their wigwams, they would find opportunities of
+throwing in my way such scraps as they could secrete from their husbands.
+The obligation I was under to them on this account is great, as the hazard
+they ran in conferring these favours was little less than death. The men,
+unrestrained by any laws or ties of conscience in the management of their
+own families, exercise a most despotic authority over their wives, whom
+they consider in the same view they do any other part of their property,
+and dispose of them accordingly: Even their common treatment of them is
+cruel; for though the toil and hazard of procuring food lies entirely upon
+the women, yet they are not suffered to touch any part of it till the
+husband is satisfied, and then he assigns them their portion, which is
+generally very scanty, and such as he has not a stomach for himself. This
+arbitrary proceeding, with respect to their own families, is not peculiar
+to this people only. I have had occasion to observe it in more instances
+than this I have mentioned, among many other nations of savages I have
+since seen.
+
+These Indians are of a middling stature, well set, and very active, and
+make their way among the rocks with an amazing agility. Their feet, by this
+kind of exercise, contract a callosity which renders the use of shoes quite
+unnecessary to them. But before I conclude the few observations I have to
+make on a people so confined in all their notions and practice, it may be
+expected I should say something of their religion; but as their gross
+ignorance is in nothing more conspicuous, and as we found it advisable to
+keep out of their way when the fits of devotion came upon them, which is
+rather frantic than religious, the reader can expect very little
+satisfaction on this head. Accident has sometimes made me unavoidably a
+spectator of scenes I should have chosen to have withdrawn myself from; and
+so far I am instructed. As there are no fixed seasons for their religious
+exercises, the younger people wait till the elders find themselves devoutly
+disposed, who begin the ceremony by several deep and dismal groans, which
+rise gradually to a hideous kind of singing, from which they proceed to
+enthusiasm, and work themselves into a disposition that borders on madness;
+for, suddenly jumping up, they snatch fire-brands from the fire, put them
+in their mouths, and run about burning every body they come near; at other
+times it is a custom with them to wound one another with sharp mussel-
+shells till they are besmeared with blood. These orgies continue till these
+who preside in them foam at the mouth, grow faint, are exhausted with
+fatigue, and dissolve in a profusion of sweat. When the men drop their part
+in this frenzy, the women take it up, acting over again much the same kind
+of wild scene, except that they rather outdo the men in shrieks and noise.
+Our cacique, who had been reclaimed from these abominations by the
+Spaniards, and just knew the exterior form of crossing himself, pretended
+to be much offended at these profane ceremonies, and that he would have
+died sooner than have partaken of them. Among other expressions of his
+disapprobation, he declared, that whilst the savages solemnized these
+horrid rites, he never failed to hear strange and uncommon noises in the
+woods, and to see frightful visions, and assured us that the devil was the
+chief actor among them upon these occasions.
+
+It might be about the middle of March that we embarked with these Indians.
+They separated our little company entirely, not putting any two of us
+together in the same canoe. The oar was my lot, as usual, as also Mr
+Campbell's; Mr Hamilton could not row, and Captain Cheap was out of the
+question; our surgeon was more dead than alive at the time, and lay at the
+bottom of the canoe he was in. The weather coming on too bad for their
+canoes to keep the sea, we landed again, without making any great progress
+that day. Here Mr Elliot, our surgeon, died. At our first setting out, he
+promised the fairest for holding out, being a very strong active young man:
+He had gone through an infinite deal of fatigue, as Mr Hamilton and he were
+the best shots amongst us, and whilst our ammunition lasted never spared
+themselves, and in a great measure provided for the rest; but he died the
+death many others had done before him, being quite starved. We scraped a
+hole for him in the sand, and buried him in the best manner we could.
+
+Here I must relate a little anecdote of our Christian cacique. He and his
+wife had gone off at some distance from the shore in their canoe, when she
+dived for sea-eggs; but not meeting with great success, they returned a
+good deal out of humour. A little boy of theirs, about three years old,
+whom they appeared to be doatingly fond of, watching for his father and
+mother's return, ran into the surf to meet them: The father handed a basket
+of sea-eggs to the child, which being too heavy for him to carry, he let it
+fall; upon which the father jumped out of the canoe, and catching the boy
+up in his arms, dashed him with the utmost violence against the stones. The
+poor little creature lay motionless and bleeding, and in that condition was
+taken up by the mother, but died soon after. She appeared inconsolable for
+some time, but the brute his father shewed little concern about it.
+
+A day or two after we put to sea again, and crossed the great bay I
+mentioned we had been to the bottom of, when we first hauled away to the
+westward. The land here was very low and sandy, with something like the
+mouth of a river, which discharged itself into the sea, and which had been
+taken no notice of by us before, as it was so shallow that the Indians were
+obliged to take every thing out of their canoes, and carry it over the neck
+of land, and then, haul the boats over into a river which at this part of
+it was very broad, more resembling a lake than a river. We rowed up it for
+four or five leagues, and then took into a branch of it, that ran first to
+the eastward, and then to the northward: Here it became much narrower, and
+the stream excessively rapid, so that we made but little way, though we
+worked very hard. At night we landed upon its banks, and had a most
+uncomfortable lodging, it being a perfect swamp; and we had nothing to
+cover us, though it rained very hard. The Indians were little better off
+than we, as there was no wood here to make their wigwams; so that all they
+could do was to prop up the bark they carry in the bottom of their canoes
+with their oars, and shelter themselves as well as they could to leeward of
+it. They, knowing the difficulties that were to be encountered here, had
+provided themselves with some seal; but we had not the least morsel to eat,
+after the heavy fatigues of the day, excepting a sort of root we saw some
+of the Indians make use of, which was very disagreeable to the taste. We
+laboured all the next day against the stream, and fared as we had done the
+day before. The next day brought us to the carrying-place. Here was plenty
+of wood, but nothing to be got for sustenance.
+
+The first thing the Indians did was to take every thing out of their
+canoes, and after hauling them ashore, they made their wigwams. We passed
+this night, as generally we had done, under a tree; but what we suffered at
+this time is not easily to be expressed. I had been three days at the oar
+without any kind of nourishment but the wretched root I mentioned before. I
+had no shirt, as mine was rotted off by bits, and we were devoured by
+vermin. All my clothes consisted of an old short grieko, which is something
+like a bearskin with a piece of a waistcoat under it, which once had been
+of red cloth, both which I had on when I was cast away; I had a ragged pair
+of trowsers, without either shoe or stocking.
+
+The first thing the Indians did in the morning was to take their canoes to
+pieces; and here, for the information of the reader, it will be necessary
+to describe the structure of these boats, which are extremely well
+calculated for the use of these Indians, as they are frequently obliged to
+carry them over land a long way together, through thick woods, to avoid
+doubling capes and head-lands, in seas where no open boats could live. They
+generally consist of five pieces or planks, one for the bottom, and two for
+each side; and as these people have no iron tools, the labour must be great
+in hacking a single plank out of a large tree with shells and flints,
+though with the help of fire. Along the edges of the plank, they make small
+holes, at about an inch from one to the other, and sew them together with
+the supplejack or woodbine; but as these holes are not filled up by the
+substance of the woodbine, their boats would be immediately full of water
+if they had not a method of preventing it. They do this very effectually by
+the bark of a tree, which they first steep in water for some time, and then
+beat it between two stones till it answers the use of oakum, and then
+chinse each hole so well, that they do not admit of the least water coming
+through, and are easily taken asunder and put together again. When they
+have occasion to go over land, as at this time, each man or woman carries a
+plank, whereas it would be impossible for them to drag a heavy boat entire.
+
+Every body had something to carry except Captain Cheap, and he was obliged
+to be assisted, or never would have got over this march; for a worse than
+this I believe never was made. He, with the others, set out some time
+before me. I waited for two Indians who belonged to the canoe I came in,
+and who remained to carry over the last of the things from the side we were
+on. I had a piece of wet heavy canvas which belonged to Captain Cheap, with
+a bit of stinking seal wrapped in it, (which had been given him that
+morning by some of the Indians) to carry upon my head, which was a
+sufficient weight for a strong man in health through such roads, and a
+grievous burthen to one in my condition.
+
+Our way was through a thick wood, the bottom of which was a mere quagmire,
+most part of it up to our knees, and often to our middle, and every now and
+then we had a large tree to get over, for they often lay directly in our
+road. Besides this, we were continually treading upon the stumps of trees,
+which were not to be avoided, as they were covered with water; and having
+neither shoe nor stocking, my feet and legs were frequently torn and
+wounded. Before I had got half a mile the two Indians had left me, and
+making the best of my way lest they should be all gone before I got to the
+other side, I fell off a tree that crossed the road into a very deep swamp,
+where I very narrowly escaped drowning, by the weight of the burthen I had
+on my head. It was a long while before I could extricate myself from this
+difficulty, and when I did, my strength was quite exhausted. I sat down
+under a tree, and there gave way to melancholy reflections. However, as I
+was sensible these reflections would answer no end, they did not last long.
+I got up, and marking a great tree, I then deposited my load, not being
+able to carry it any farther, and set out to join my company.
+
+It was some hours before I reached my companions. I found them sitting
+under a tree, and sat myself down by them without speaking a word; nor did
+they speak to me, as I remember, for some time, when Captain Cheap breaking
+silence, began to ask after the seal and piece of canvas. I told him the
+disaster I had met with, which he might have easily guessed by the
+condition the rags I had on were in, as well as having my feet and ancles
+cut to pieces; but, instead of compassion for my sufferings, I heard
+nothing but grumbling from every one for the irreparable loss they had
+sustained by me. I made no answer, but after resting myself a little, I got
+up and struck into the wood, and walked back at least five miles to the
+tree I had marked, and returned just time enough to deliver it before my
+companions embarked, with the Indians, upon a great lake, the opposite part
+of which seemed to wash the foot of the Cordilleras. I wanted to embark
+with them, but was given to understand I was to wait for some other Indians
+that were to follow them. I knew not where these Indians were to come from:
+I was left alone upon the beach, and night was at hand. They left me not
+even a morsel of the stinking seal that I had suffered so much about.
+
+I kept my eyes upon the boats as long as I could distinguish them, and then
+returned into the wood, and sat myself down upon the root of a tree, having
+eat nothing the whole day but the stem of a plant which resembles that of
+an artichoke, which is of a juicy consistence and acid taste. Quite worn
+out with fatigue, I soon fell asleep; and awaking before day, I thought I
+heard some voices at no great distance from me. As the day appeared,
+looking further into the wood, I perceived a wigwam, and immediately made
+towards it; but the reception I met with was not at all agreeable, for
+stooping to get into it, I presently received two or three hearty kicks in
+my face, and at the same time heard the sound of voices, seemingly in
+anger, which made me retire, and wait at the foot of a tree, where I
+remained till an old woman peeped out and made signs to me to draw near. I
+obeyed very readily, and went into the wigwam. In it were three men and two
+women; one young man seemed to have great respect shewn to him by the rest,
+though he was the most miserable object I ever saw. He was a perfect
+skeleton, and covered with sores from head to foot. I was happy to sit a
+moment by their fire, as I was quite benumbed with cold. The old woman took
+out a piece of seal, holding one part of it between her feet, and the other
+end in her teeth, and then cut off some thin slices with a sharp shell, and
+distributed them about to the other Indians. She then put a bit on the
+fire, taking a piece of fat in her mouth, which she kept chewing, every now
+and then spirting some of it on the piece that was warming upon the fire;
+for they never do more with it than warm it through. When it was ready, she
+gave me a little bit, which I swallowed whole, being almost starved.
+
+As these Indians were all strangers to me, I did not know which way they
+were going; and indeed it was now become quite indifferent to me which way
+I went, whether to the northward or southward, so that they would but take
+me with them and give me something to eat. However, to make them comprehend
+me, I pointed first to the southward, and after to the lake, and I soon
+understood they were going to the northward. They all went out together,
+excepting the sick Indian, and took up the planks of the canoes, which lay
+near the wigwam, and carried them upon the beach, and presently put it
+together, and getting every thing into it, they put me to the oar. We rowed
+across the lake to the mouth of a very rapid river, where we put ashore for
+that night, not daring to get any way down in the dark, as it required the
+greatest skill, even in the day, to avoid running foul of the stumps and
+roots of trees, of which this river was full. I passed a melancholy night,
+as they would not suffer me to come near the wigwam they had made; nor had
+they given me the least bit of any one thing to eat since we embarked.
+
+In the morning we set off again. The weather proved extremely bad the whole
+day. We went down the river at an amazing rate, and just before night they
+put ashore upon a stony beach. They hauled the canoe up, and all
+disappeared in a moment, and I was left quite alone; it rained violently,
+and was very dark. I thought it was as well to lay down upon the beach,
+half side in water, as to get into a swamp under a dropping tree. In this
+dismal situation I fell asleep, and awaked three or four hours after in
+such agonies with the cramp, that I thought I must die upon the spot. I
+attempted several times to raise myself upon my legs, but could not. At
+last I made shift to get upon my knees, and looking towards the wood, I saw
+a great fire at some distance from me. I was a long time crawling to it,
+and when I reached it, I threw myself almost into it, in hopes of finding
+some relief from the pain I suffered. This intrusion gave great offence to
+the Indians, who immediately got up, kicking and beating me till they drove
+me to some distance from it; however, I contrived a little after to place
+myself so as to receive some warmth from it, by which I got rid of the
+cramp.
+
+In the morning we left this place, and were soon after out of the river.
+Being now at sea again, the Indians intended putting ashore at the first
+convenient place to look for shell-fish, their stock of provisions having
+been quite exhausted for some time. At low water we landed upon a spot that
+seemed to promise well, and here we found plenty of limpets. Though at this
+time starving, I did not attempt to eat one, lest I should lose a moment in
+gathering them, not knowing how soon the Indians might be going again. I
+had almost filled my hat when I saw them returning to the canoe. I made
+what haste I could to her, for I believe they would have made no conscience
+of leaving me behind. I sat down to my oar again, placing my hat close to
+me, every now and then eating a limpet. The Indians were employed the same
+way, when one of them seeing me throw the shells overboard, spoke to the
+rest in a violent passion, and getting up, fell upon me, and seizing me by
+an old ragged handkerchief I had about my neck, almost throttled me; whilst
+another took me by the legs, and was going to throw me overboard if the old
+woman had not prevented, them.
+
+I was all this time entirely ignorant by what means I had given offence,
+till I observed that the Indians, after eating the limpets, carefully put
+the shells in a heap at the bottom, of the canoe. I then concluded there
+was some superstition about throwing these shells into the sea, my
+ignorance of which had very nearly cost me my life. I was resolved to eat
+no more limpets till we landed, which we did some time after upon an
+island. I then took notice that the Indians brought all their shells
+ashore, and laid them above high-water mark. Here, as I was going to eat a
+large bunch of berries I had gathered from a tree, for they looked very
+tempting, one of the Indians snatched them out of my hand and threw them
+away, making me to understand that they were poisonous. Thus, in all
+probability, did these people now save my life, who, a few hours before,
+were going to take it from me for throwing away a shell.
+
+In two days after I joined my companions again, but don't remember that
+there was the least joy shewn on either side at meeting. At this place was
+a very large canoe belonging to our guide, which would have required at
+least six men to the oar to have made any kind of expedition; instead of
+that, there was only Campbell and myself, besides the Indian, his companion
+or servant, to row, the cacique himself never touching an oar, but sitting,
+with his wife all the time much at his ease. Mr Hamilton continued in the
+same canoe he had been in all along, and which still was to keep us company
+some way further, though many of the others had left us. This was dreadful
+hard work to such poor starved wretches as we were, to be slaving at the
+oar all day long in such a heavy boat; and this inhuman fellow would never
+give us a scrap to eat, excepting when he took so much seal that he could
+not contrive to carry it all away with him, which happened very seldom.
+
+After working like galley slaves all day, towards night, when we landed,
+instead of taking any rest, Mr Campbell and I were sometimes obliged to go
+miles along shore to get a few shell-fish; and just as we have made a
+little fire in order to dress them, he has commanded us into the boat
+again, and kept us rowing the whole night without ever landing. It is
+impossible for me to describe the miserable state we were reduced to: Our
+bodies were so emaciated, that we hardly appeared the figures of men.
+
+It has often happened to me in the coldest night, both in hail and snow,
+where we had nothing but an open beach to lay down upon, in order to
+procure a little rest, that I have been obliged to pull off the few rags I
+had on, as it was impossible to get a moment's sleep with them on for the
+vermin that swarmed about them, though I used as often as I had time, to
+take my clothes off, and putting them upon a large stone, beat them with
+another, in hopes of killing hundreds at once, for it was endless work to
+pick them off. What we suffered from this was ten times worse even than
+hunger. But we were clean in comparison to Captain Cheap, for I could
+compare his body to nothing but an ant-hill, with thousands of those
+insects crawling over it; for he was now past attempting to rid himself in
+the least from this torment, as he had quite lost himself, not recollecting
+our names that were about him, or even his own. His beard was as long as a
+hermit's; that and his face being covered with train-oil and dirt, from
+having long accustomed himself to sleep upon a bag, by the way of pillow,
+in which he kept the pieces of stinking seal. This prudent method he took
+to prevent our getting at it whilst he slept. His legs were as big as
+millposts, though his body appeared to be nothing but skin and bone.
+
+One day we fell in with about forty Indians, who came down to the beach we
+landed on, curiously painted. Our cacique seemed to understand but little
+of their language, and it sounded to us very different from what we had
+heard before. However, they made us comprehend that a ship had been upon
+the coast not far from where we then were, and that she had a red flag:
+This we understood some time after to have been the Anne pink, whose
+adventures are particularly related in Lord Anson's Voyage; and we passed
+through the very harbour she had lain in.
+
+As there was but one small canoe that intended to accompany us any longer,
+and that in which Mr Hamilton had been to this time intended to proceed no
+further to the northward, our cacique proposed to him to come into our
+canoe, which he refused, as the insolence of this fellow was to him
+insupportable; he therefore rather chose to remain where he was, till
+chance should throw in his way some other means of getting forward; so here
+we left him, and it was some months before we saw him again.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+
+We land on the Island of Chiloe.--To our great Joy we at length discover
+Something having the Appearance of a House.--Kindness of the Natives.--We
+are delivered to the Custody of a Spanish Guard.--Transactions with the
+Spanish Residents.--Arrival at Chaco.--Manners of the Inhabitants.
+
+
+We now got on, by very slow degrees, to the northward; and as the
+difficulties and hardships we daily went through would only be a repetition
+of those already mentioned, I shall say no more, but that at last we
+reached an island about thirty leagues to the southward of Chiloe. Here we
+remained two days for a favourable opportunity to cross the bay, the very
+thoughts of which seemed to frighten our cacique out of his senses; and
+indeed there was great reason for his apprehensions, for there ran a most
+dreadful hollow sea, dangerous indeed for any open boat whatever, but a
+thousand times more for such a crazy vessel as we were in. He at length
+mustered up resolution enough to attempt it, first having crossed himself
+for an hour together, and made a kind of lug-sail out of the bits of
+blankets they wore about them, sewed together with split supple-jacks. We
+then put off, and a terrible passage we had. The bottom plank of the canoe
+was split, which opened upon every sea; and the water continually rushing
+over the gunnel, I may say that we were in a manner full the whole way
+over, though all hands were employed in bailing, without ceasing a moment.
+
+As we drew near the shore, the cacique was eager to land, having been
+terrified to that degree with this run, that if it had not been for us,
+every soul must have perished; for he had very near got in amongst the
+breakers, where the sea drove with such violence upon the rocks, that not
+even an Indian could have escaped, especially as it was in the night. We
+kept off till we got into smooth water, and landed upon the island of
+Chiloe, though in a part of it that was not inhabited. Here we staid all
+the next day, in a very heavy snow, to recover ourselves a little after our
+fatigue; but the cold was so excessive, having neither shoe nor stocking,
+we thought we should have lost our feet; and Captain Cheap was so ill, that
+if he had had but a few leagues further to have gone without relief, he
+could not have held out. It pleased God now that our sufferings, in a great
+measure, were drawing to an end.
+
+What things our cacique had brought with him from the wreck, he here buried
+under ground, in order to conceal them from the Spaniards, who would not
+have left him a rusty nail if they had known of it. Towards evening we set
+off again; and about nine the same night, to our great joy, we observed
+something that had the appearance of a house, It belonged to an
+acquaintance of our cacique; and as he was possessed of my fowling-piece,
+and we had preserved about one charge of powder, he made us load it for
+him, and desired we would shew him how to discharge it; upon which,
+standing up, and holding his head from it as far as possible, he fired, and
+fell back into the bottom of the canoe. The Indians belonging to the house,
+not in the least used to fire-arms, ran out and hid themselves in the
+woods. But after some time, one of them bolder than the rest, got upon a
+hill and hollowed to us, asking who and what we were. Our cacique now made
+himself known, and they presently came down to the boat, bringing with them
+some fish and plenty of potatoes. This was the most comfortable meal we had
+made for many long months; and as soon as this was over, we rowed about two
+miles farther to a little village, where we landed. Here our cacique
+presently awaked all the inhabitants by the noise he made, and obliged one
+of them to open his door to us, and immediately to make a large fire, for
+the weather was very severe, this being the month of June, the depth of
+winter in this part of the world. The Indians now flocked thick about us,
+and seemed to have great compassion for us, as our cacique related to them
+what part be knew of our history. They knew not what countrymen we were,
+nor could our guide inform them; for he had often asked us if we were
+French, Dutch, or English, the only nations he had ever heard of besides
+the Spaniards. We always answered we were from Grande Bretagne, which he
+could make nothing of; for we were afraid, if he knew us to be English, as
+he had heard that nation was at war with the Spaniards, he never would have
+conducted us to Chiloe.
+
+These good-natured compassionate creatures seemed to vie with each other
+who should take the most care of us. They made a bed of sheep-skins close
+to the fire for Captain Cheap, and laid him upon it; and indeed, had it not
+been for the kind assistance he now met with, he could not have survived
+three days longer. Though it was now about midnight, they went out and
+killed a sheep, of which they made broth, and baked a large cake of barley-
+meal. Any body may imagine what a treat this was to wretches who had not
+tasted a bit of bread, or any wholesome diet, for such a length of time.
+After we could eat no longer, we went to sleep about the fire, which the
+Indians took care to keep up. In the morning, the women came from far and
+near, each bringing with her something. Almost every one had a pipkin in
+her hand, containing either fowls or mutton made into broth, potatoes,
+eggs, or other eatables. We fell to work as if we had eat nothing in the
+night, and employed ourselves so for the best part of the day.
+
+In the evening, the men filled our house, bringing with them some jars of a
+liquor they called chica, made of barley-meal, and not very unlike our oat-
+ale in taste, which will intoxicate those who drink a sufficient quantity
+of it, for a little has no effect. As soon as the drink was out, a fresh
+supply of victuals was brought in; and in this manner we passed the whole
+time we remained with these hospitable Indians. They are a strong well-made
+people, extremely well-featured, both men and women, and vastly neat in
+their persons. The men's dress is called by them a puncho, which is a
+square piece of cloth, generally in stripes of different colours, with a
+slit in the middle of it, wide enough to let their heads through, so that
+it hangs on their shoulders, half of it falling before and the other behind
+them: Under this they wear a short kind of flannel shirt without sleeves or
+neck. They have wide-knee'd breeches, something like the Dutch seamen, and
+on their legs a sort of knit buskins without any feet to them, but never
+any shoes. Their hair is always combed very smooth, and tied very tight up
+in a great bunch close to the neck; some wear a very neat hat of their own
+making, and others go without. The women wear a shift like the men's
+shirts, without sleeves, and over it a square piece of cloth, which they
+fasten before with a large silver pin, and a petticoat of different
+stripes. They take as much care of their hair as the men; and both have
+always a kind of fillet bound very tight about the fore-head, and made fast
+behind. In short, these people are as cleanly as the several savage nations
+we had met with before were beastly.
+
+Upon our first coming here, they had dispatched a messenger to the Spanish
+corregidore at Castro, a town a considerable distance from hence, to inform
+him of our arrival. At the end of three days, this man returned with an
+order to the chief caciques of these Indians we were amongst, to carry us
+directly to a certain place, where there would be a party of soldiers to
+receive us. These poor people now seemed to be under great concern for us,
+hearing by the messenger the preparations that were making to receive us;
+for they stand in vast dread of the Spanish soldiery. They were very
+desirous of knowing what countrymen we were. We told them we were English,
+and at that time at war with the Spaniards, upon which they appeared fonder
+of us than ever; and I verily believe, if they durst, would have concealed
+us amongst them, lest we should come to any harm. They are so far from
+being in the Spanish interest, that they detest the very name of a
+Spaniard. And, indeed, I am not surprised at it, for they are kept under
+such subjection, and such a laborious slavery, by mere dint of hard usage
+and punishments, that it appears to me the most absurd thing in the world
+that the Spaniards should rely upon these people for assistance upon any
+emergency.
+
+We embarked in the evening, and it was night before we got to the place
+where we were to be delivered up to the Spanish guard. We were met by three
+or four officers and a number of soldiers, all with their spados drawn, who
+surrounded us as if they had the most formidable enemy to take charge of,
+instead of three poor helpless wretches, who, notwithstanding the good
+living we had met with amongst these kind Indians, could hardly support
+ourselves. They carried us to the top of a hill, and there put us under a
+shed, for it consisted of a thatched roof without any sides or walls, being
+quite open; and here we were to lie upon the cold ground. All sorts of
+people now came to stare at us as a sight; but the Indian women never came
+empty-handed; they always brought with them either fowls, mutton, or some
+kind of provision to us, so that we lived well enough. However, we found a
+very sensible difference between the treatment we had met with from the
+Indians and what we now experienced from the Spaniards. With the former, we
+were quite at liberty to do as we pleased; but here, if we only went ten
+yards to attempt at getting rid of some of the vermin that devoured us, we
+had two soldiers with drawn spados to attend us.
+
+About the third day, a Jesuit from Castro came to see us, not from a motive
+of compassion, but from a report spread by our Indian cacique, that we had
+some things of great value about us. Having by chance seen Captain Cheap
+pull out a gold repeating watch, the first thing the good father did was to
+lug out of his pocket a bottle of brandy and give us a dram, in order to
+open our hearts. He then came roundly to the point, asking us if we had
+saved no watches or rings. Captain Cheap declared he had nothing, never
+suspecting that the Indian had seen his watch, having, as he thought,
+always taken great care to conceal it from him; but knowing that Campbell
+had a silver watch, which had been the property of our surgeon, he desired
+him to make it a present to the Jesuit, telling him at the same time, that
+as these people had great power and authority, it might be of service to us
+hereafter. This Campbell very unwillingly did, and received from the
+father, not long after, a pitiful present, not a quarter part of the value
+of the rim of the watch. We understood afterwards that this had come to the
+governor's ears, who was highly offended at it, as thinking that if any
+thing of that sort had been to be had, it was his due, and did not spare
+the Jesuits in the least upon the occasion.
+
+Soon after this, the officer of the guard informed us there was an order
+come to carry us to Castro. In the evening, we were conducted to the water-
+side, and put into a large periago, and there were several more to attend
+us, full of soldiers. About eight o'clock at night we were off the town.
+Their boats all laid upon their oars, and there was a great deal of
+ceremony used in hailing and asking for the keys, as if it had been a
+regular fortification. After some time, we landed, but could see neither
+gates nor walk, nor any thing that had the appearance of a garrison. As we
+walked up a steep hill into the town, the way was lined with men, who had
+broomsticks upon their shoulders instead of muskets, and a lighted match in
+their hands. When we came to the corregidore's house, we found it full of
+people. He was an old man, very tall, with a long cloak on, a tye-wig
+without any curl, and a spado of immense length by his aide. He received us
+in great state and form; but as we had no interpreter, we understood little
+or nothing of the questions he asked us. He ordered a table to be spread
+for us with cold ham and fowls, which we three only sat down to, and in a
+short time dispatched more than ten men with common appetites would have
+done. It is amazing, that our eating to that excess we had done, from the
+time we first got among these kind Indians, had not killed us; we were
+never satisfied, and used to take all opportunities for some months after,
+of filling our pockets when we were not seen, that we might get up two or
+three times in the night to cram ourselves. Captain Cheap used to declare,
+that he was quite ashamed of himself.
+
+After supper, the corregidore carried us to the Jesuits college, attended
+by the soldiers and all the rabble of the town. This was intended at
+present for our prison, till orders were received from the governor, who
+resided at Chaco, above thirty leagues from this place. When we got to the
+college, the corregidore desired the father provincial, as they stiled him,
+or head of the Jesuits here, to find out what religion we were of, or
+whether we had any or not. He then retired, the gates were shut, and we
+were conducted to a cell. We found in it something like beds spread on the
+floor, and an old ragged shirt apiece, but clean, which was of infinite
+service to us; nor did eating at first give me half the satisfaction this
+treasure of an old shirt did. Though this college was large, there were but
+four Jesuits in it, nor were there any more of that order upon the island.
+
+In the morning, Captain Cheap was sent for by the father provincial: Their
+conversation was carried on in Latin, perhaps not the best on either side;
+however, they made shift to understand one another. When he returned, he
+told us the good fathers were still harping upon what things of value we
+might have saved and concealed about us; and that if we had any thing of
+that sort, we could not do better than let them have it. Religion seemed to
+be quite out of the question at present; but a day or two after, the
+corregidore being informed that we were heretics, he desired these Jesuits
+would convert us; but one of them told him it was a mere joke to attempt
+it, as we could have no inducement upon that island to change our religion;
+but that when we got to Chili, in such a delightful country as that was,
+where there was nothing but diversions and amusements, we should be
+converted fast enough. We kept close to our cell till the bell rang for
+dinner, when we were conducted into a hall, where there was one table for
+the fathers, and another for us. After a very long Latin prayer, we sat
+down and eat what was put before us, without a single word passing at
+either table. As soon as we had finished, there was another long prayer,
+which, however, did not appear so tedious as the first, and then we retired
+to our cell again. In this manner we passed eight days without ever
+stirring out, all which time one might have imagined one's self out of the
+world; for excepting the bell for dinner, a silence reigned throughout the
+whole, as if the place had been uninhabited.
+
+A little before dark, on the eighth evening, we heard a violent knocking at
+the gate, which was no sooner opened than there entered a young officer
+booted and spurred, who acquainted the fathers that he was sent by the
+governor to conduct us to Chaco. This young man was the governor's son, by
+which means he obtained a command next in authority, upon this island, to
+his father. He ought to have been kept at school, for he was a vain empty
+coxcomb, much disliked by the people upon the island. After taking leave of
+the Jesuits, who, I imagine, were not sorry to be rid of us, after finding
+their expectations baulked, we set out, having about thirty soldiers on
+horseback to attend us. We rode about eight miles that night, when we came
+to an Estancia, or farm-house, belonging to an old lady, who had two
+handsome daughters. Here we were very well entertained, and the good old
+lady seemed to have great compassion on us. She asked the governor's son if
+he thought his father would have any objection to my passing a month with
+her at her farm. As she was a person of rank in this island, he said he
+would acquaint his father with her request, and made no doubt but he would
+grant it. I observed our soldiers, when they came into the house, had none
+of them any shoes on, but wore buskins, like the Indians, without any feet
+to them. They all had monstrous great spurs, some of silver and others of
+copper, which made a rattling when they walked, like chains. They were all
+stout strong-looking men, as the Spaniards, natives of the island, in
+general are. After a good supper, we had sheep-skins laid near the fire for
+us to sleep on.
+
+Early in the morning we mounted again, and after riding some miles across
+the country, we came to the water-side, where we found several periagoes
+waiting for us, with some officers in them. Most of the soldiers dismounted
+and embarked with us, few only being sent round with the horses. It was
+three days before we arrived at Chaco, as the tides between this island and
+the main are so rapid that no boat can stem them. The same precaution was
+taken here as at Castro; we passed through a whole lane of soldiers, armed
+as I mentioned those to have been before, excepting a few who really had
+match-locks, the only fire-arms they have here. The soldiers, upon our
+journey, had given a pompous account of el Palacio del Rey, or the king's
+palace, as they stiled the governor's house, and therefore we expected to
+see something very magnificent; but it was nothing better than a large
+thatched barn, partitioned off into several rooms. The governor was sitting
+at a large table covered with a piece of red serge, having all the
+principal officers about him. After some time, he made us sit down,
+attempting to converse with us by his linguist, who was a stupid old
+fellow, that could neither talk English nor Spanish, but said he was born
+in England, had resided above forty years in that country, and having
+formerly been a buccaneer, was taken by the Spaniards near Panama. The
+governor kept us to supper, and then we were conducted across the court to
+our apartment, which was a place that had served to keep the fire-wood for
+the governor's kitchen; however, as it was dry over head, we thought
+ourselves extremely well lodged. There was a soldier placed at the door
+with a drawn spado in his hand, to prevent our stirring out, which was
+quite unnecessary, as we knew not where to go if we had been at liberty.
+One of these soldiers took a fancy to my ragged grieko, which had still
+some thousands about it, and in exchange gave me an old poncho, the sort of
+garment with a hole in the middle to put one's head through, as above
+related to be worn by the Indians; and for the little bit of my waistcoat
+that remained, he gave me a pair of breeches. I now should have thought
+myself very handsomely equipped, if I had had but another shirt.
+
+The next day, about noon, the governor sent for us, and we dined at his
+table, after which we returned to our lodging, where we were never alone,
+for every body was curious to see us. We passed about a week in this
+manner, when the centinel was taken off, and we were allowed to look about
+us a little, though not to go out of the palace, as they were pleased to
+call it. We dined every day with the governor, but were not very fond of
+his fast days, which succeeded each other too quickly. I contrived to make
+friends with his steward and cook, by which means I always carried my
+pockets full to my apartment, where I passed my time very agreeably. Soon
+after, we had leave to walk about the town, or go wherever we pleased.
+Every house was open to us; and though it was but an hour after we had
+dined, they always spread a table, thinking we never could eat enough after
+what we had suffered; and we were much of the same opinion. They are, in
+general, a charitable, good sort of people, but very ignorant, and governed
+by their priests, who make them believe just what they please.
+
+The Indian language is chiefly spoken here, even by the Spaniards one
+amongst another; and they say they think it a finer language than their
+own. The women have fine complexions, and many of them are very handsome;
+they have good voices, and can strum a little upon the guitar; but they
+have an ugly custom of smoking tobacco, which is a very scarce commodity
+here, and therefore is looked upon as a great treat when they meet at one
+another's houses. The lady of the house comes in with a large wooden pipe
+crammed with tobacco, and after taking two or three hearty whiffs, she
+holds her head under her cloak lest any of the smoke should escape, and
+then swallows it; some time after, you see it coming out of her nose and
+ears. She then hands the pipe to the next lady, who does the same, till it
+has gone through the whole company. Their houses are but very mean, as will
+be easily imagined by what I have said of the governor's. They make their
+fire in the middle of their rooms, but have no chimneys; there is a small
+hole at each end of the roof to let the smoke out.
+
+It is only the better sort of people that eat bread made of wheat, as they
+grow but very little here, and they have no mills to grind it; but then
+they have great plenty of the finest potatoes in the world: These are
+always roasted in the ashes, then scraped, and served up at meals instead
+of bread. They breed abundance of swine, as they supply both Chili and Peru
+with hams. They are in no want of sheep, but are not overstocked with cows,
+owing, in a great measure, to their own indolence in not clearing away the
+woods, which if they would be at the pains to do, they might have
+sufficient pasture. Their trade consists in hams, hogs-lard, which is used
+throughout all South America instead of butter; cedar-plank, which the
+Indians are continually employed in cutting quite to the foot of the
+Cordilleras, little carved boxes, which the Spanish ladies use to put their
+work in, carpets, quilts, and punchos neatly embroidered all round; for
+these, both in Chili and Peru, are used by the people of the first fashion,
+as well as the inferior sort, by way of riding-dress, and are esteemed to
+be much more convenient for a horseman than any kind of coat whatever.
+
+They have what they call an annual ship from Lima, as they never expect
+more than one in the year; though sometimes it happens that two have come,
+and at other times they have been two or three years without any. When this
+happens, they are greatly distressed, as this ship brings them baize,
+cloth, linens, hats, ribbons, tobacco, sugar, brandy, and wine, but this
+latter article is chiefly for the use of the churches: Matte, an herb from
+Paraguay, used over all South America instead of tea, is also a necessary
+article. This ship's cargo is chiefly consigned to the Jesuits, who have
+more Indians employed for them than all the rest of the inhabitants
+together, and of course engross almost the whole trade. There is no money
+current in this island. If any person wants a few yards of linen, a little
+sugar, tobacco, or any other thing brought from Peru, he gives so many
+cedar-planks, hams, or punchos, in exchange. Some time after we had been
+here, a snow arrived in the harbour from Lima, which occasioned great joy
+amongst the inhabitants, as they had no ship the year before, from the
+alarm Lord Anson had given upon the coast.
+
+This was not the annual vessel, but one of those that I mentioned before
+which come unexpectedly. The captain of her was an old man, well known upon
+the island, who had traded here once in two or three years for more than
+thirty years past. He had a remarkably large head, and therefore was
+commonly known by a nick-name they had given him of Cabuco de Toro, or
+Bull's-head. He had not been here a week, before he came to the governor,
+and told him, with a most melancholy countenance, that he had not slept a
+wink since he came into the harbour, as the governor was pleased to allow
+three English prisoners liberty to walk about instead of confining them,
+and that he expected every moment they would board his vessel and carry her
+away: This he said when he had above thirty hands aboard. The governor
+assured him he would be answerable for us, and that he might sleep in
+quiet; though at the same time he could not help laughing at the man, as
+all the people in the town did. These assurances did not satisfy the
+captain; he used the utmost dispatch in disposing of his cargo, and put to
+sea again, not thinking himself safe till he had lost sight of the island.
+It was about three months after this that Mr Hamilton was brought in by a
+party that the governor had sent to the southward on purpose to fetch him.
+He was in a wretched condition upon his first arrival, but soon recovered
+with the good living he found here.
+
+It is usual for the governor to make a tour every year through the several
+districts belonging to his government: On this occasion he took us with
+him. The first place he visited was Carelmapo, on the main, and from thence
+to Castro. At these places he holds a kind of court, all the chief caciques
+meeting him, and informing him of what has passed since his last visit, and
+receiving fresh orders for the year to come. At Castro we had the same
+liberty we enjoyed at Chaco, and visited every body. It seemed they had
+forgot all the ceremony used upon our first landing here, which was with an
+intent to make us believe it was strongly fortified; for now they let us
+see plainly that they had neither fort nor gun. At Chaco they had a little
+earthen fort, with a small ditch palisadoed round it, and a few old
+honeycombed guns without carriages, and which do not defend the harbour in
+the least. Whilst we were at Castro, the old lady (at whose house we lay
+the first night upon leaving the Jesuits college) sent to the governor, and
+begged I might be allowed to come to her for a few weeks; this was granted,
+and accordingly I went and passed about three weeks with her very happily,
+as she seemed to be as fond of me as if I had been her own son. She was
+very unwilling to part with me again, but as the governor was soon to
+return to Chaca, he sent for me, and I left my benefactress with regret.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+
+Adventure with the Niece of an old Priest at Castro.--Superstition of the
+People.--The Lima Ship arrives, in which we depart for Valparaiso, January
+1743.--Arrival at and Treatment there.--Journey to Chili.--Arrival at St
+Jago.--Generous Conduct of a Scotch Physician.--Description of the City and
+of the People.
+
+
+Amongst the houses we visited at Castro, there was one belonging to an old
+priest, who was esteemed one of the richest persons upon the island. He had
+a niece, of whom he was extremely fond, and who was to inherit all he
+possessed. He had taken a great deal of pains with her education, and she
+was reckoned one of the most accomplished young ladies of Chiloe. Her
+person was good, though she could not be called a regular beauty. This
+young lady did me the honour to take more notice of me than I deserved, and
+proposed to her uncle to convert me, and afterwards begged his consent to
+marry me. As the old man doated upon her, he readily agreed to it; and
+accordingly, on the next visit I made him, acquainted me with the young
+lady's proposal, and his approbation of it, taking me at the same time into
+a room where there were several chests and boxes, which he unlocked, first
+shewing me what a number of fine clothes his niece had, and then his own
+wardrobe, which he said should be mine at his death. Amongst other things,
+he produced a piece of linen, which he said should immediately be made up
+into shirts for me. I own this last article was a great temptation to me;
+however, I had the resolution to withstand it, and made the best excuses I
+could for not accepting of the honour they intended me; for by this time I
+could speak Spanish well enough to make myself understood.
+
+Amongst other Indians who had come to meet the governor here, there were
+some caciques of those Indians who had treated us so kindly at our first
+landing upon Chiloe. One of these, a young man, had been guilty of some
+offence, and was put in irons, and threatened to be more severely punished.
+We could not learn his crime, or whether the governor did not do it in a
+great measure to shew us his power over these Indian chiefs; however, we
+were under great concern for this young man, who had been extremely kind to
+us, and begged Captain Cheap to intercede with the governor for him. This
+he did, and the cacique was released; the governor acquainted him at the
+same time, with great warmth, that it was to us only he owed it, or
+otherwise he would have made a severe example of him. The young man seemed
+to have been in no dread of farther punishment, as I believe he felt all a
+man could do from the indignity of being put in irons in the public square,
+before all his brother caciques and many hundreds of other Indians. I
+thought this was not a very politic step of the governor, as the cacique
+came after to Captain Cheap to thank him for his goodness, and in all
+probability would remember the English for some time after; and not only
+he, but all the other caciques who had been witnesses of it, and who seemed
+to feel, if possible, even more than the young man himself did.
+
+We now returned to Chaco, and the governor told us, when the annual ship
+came, which they expected in December, we should be sent in her to Chili.
+We felt several earthquakes while we were here. One day, as I happened to
+be upon a visit at a house where I was very well acquainted, an Indian came
+in, who lived at many leagues distance from this town, and who had made
+this journey in order to purchase some little trifles he wanted; amongst
+other things, he had bought some prints of saints. Very proud of these, he
+produced them, and put them into the hands of the women, who very devoutly
+first crossed themselves with them, and afterwards kissed them; then gave
+them to me, saying at the same time, they supposed such a heretic as I was
+would refuse to kiss them. They were right in their conjectures; I returned
+them to the Indian without going through that ceremony. At that very
+instant there happened a violent shock of an earthquake, which they imputed
+entirely to the anger of the saints; and all quitted the house as fast as
+they could, lest it should fall upon their heads. For my part, I made the
+best of my way home for fear of being knocked on the head when out of the
+house by the rabble, who looked on me as the cause of all this mischief,
+and did not return to that house again till I thought this affair was
+forgotten.
+
+Here is a very good harbour; but the entrance is very dangerous for those
+who are unacquainted with it, as the tides are so extremely rapid, and
+there are sunken rocks in the midchannel. The island is above seventy
+leagues round, and the body of it lies in about 40 deg. 20 min. south, and
+is the most southern settlement the Spaniards have in these seas. Their
+summer is of no long duration, and most of the year round they have hard
+gales of wind and much rain. Opposite the island, upon the Cordilleras,
+there is a volcano, which at times burns with great fury, and is subject to
+violent eruptions. One of these alarmed the whole island whilst we were
+there; it sounded in the night like great guns. In the morning, the
+governor mounted his horse, and rode backwards and forwards from his house
+to the earthen fort, saying it was the English coming in, but that he would
+give them a warm reception; meaning, I suppose, that he would have left
+them a good fire in his house, for I am certain he would soon have been in
+the woods if he had seen any thing like an English ship coming in.
+
+Women of the first fashion here seldom wear shoes or stockings in the
+house, but only keep them to wear upon particular occasions. I have often
+seen them coming to the church, which stood opposite to the governor's
+house, bare-legged, walking through mud and water, and at the church-door
+put on their shoes and stockings, and pull them off again when they came
+out. Though they are in general handsome, and have good complexions, yet
+many of them paint in so ridiculous a manner, that it is impossible to help
+laughing in their faces when you see them.
+
+The governor we found here was a native of Chili. The government, which is
+appointed by that presidency, is for three years, which appears to be a
+long banishment to them, as their appointments are but small, though they
+make the most of it. The towns of Castro and Chaco consist only of
+scattered houses, without a regular street, though both have their places
+or squares, as almost all Spanish towns have. Chaco is very thinly
+inhabited, excepting at the time the Lima ship arrives; then they flock
+thither from all parts of the island to purchase what little matters they
+want, and as soon as that is done, retire to their estancias or farms.
+
+It was about the middle of December this ship came in, and the second of
+January, 1742-3, we embarked on board of her. She was bound to Valparaiso.
+We got out to sea with some difficulty, having been driven by the strength
+of the tide very near those sunken rocks mentioned before. We found a great
+sea without; and as the ship was as deep as any laden collier, her decks
+were continually well washed. She was a fine vessel, of about two hundred
+and fifty-tons. The timber the ships of this country are built of is
+excellent, as they last a prodigious time; for they assured us that the
+vessel we were then in had been built above forty years. The captain was a
+Spaniard, and knew not the least of sea affairs; the second captain, or
+master, the boatswain, and his mate, were all three Frenchmen, and very
+good seamen; the pilot was a Mulatto, and all the rest of the crew were
+Indians and negroes. The latter were all slaves and stout fellows, but
+never suffered to go aloft, lest they should fall overboard, and the owners
+lose so much money by it. The Indians were active, brisk men, and very good
+seamen for that climate. We had on board the head of the Jesuits as
+passenger. He and Captain Cheap were admitted into the great cabin, and
+messed with the captain and his chaplain. As for us, we were obliged to
+rough it the whole passage, that is, when we were tired we lay down upon
+the quarter-deck in the open air, and slept as well as we could; but that
+was nothing to us, who had been used to fare so much worse. We lived well,
+eating with the master and boatswain, who always had their meals upon the
+quarter-deck, and drank brandy at them as we do small-beer, and all the
+rest of the day were smoking segars.
+
+The fifth day we made the land four or five leagues to the southward of
+Valparaiso, and soon after falling calm, a great western swell hurried us
+in very fast towards the shore. We dropped the lead several times, but had
+such deep water we could not anchor. They were all much alarmed when the
+Jesuit came out of the cabin for the first time, having been sea-sick the
+whole passage. As soon as he was informed of the danger, he went back into
+the cabin and brought out the image of some saint, which he desired might
+be hung up in the mizen-shrouds; which being done, he kept threatening it,
+that if we had not a breeze of wind soon, he would certainly throw it
+overboard. Soon after, we had a little wind from off the land, when the
+Jesuit carried the image back with an air of great triumph, saying he was
+certain that we should not be without wind long, though he had given
+himself over for lost some time before it came. Next morning we anchored in
+the port of Valparaiso. In that part which is opposite to the fort, ships
+lay so near the land, that they have generally three anchors ashore, as
+there is eight or ten fathom close to it; and the flaws come off the hills
+with such violence, that if it was not for this method of securing them
+they would be blown out. This is only in summer-time, for in the winter
+months no ships ever attempt to come in here; the northerly winds then
+prevail, and drive in such a sea that they must soon be ashore.
+
+The Spanish captain waited upon the governor of the fort, and informed him
+that he had four English prisoners on board. We were ordered ashore in the
+afternoon, and were received as we got upon the beach by a file of soldiers
+with their bayonets fixed, who surrounded us, and then marched up to the
+fort, attended by a numerous mob. We were carried before the governor,
+whose house was full of officers. He was blind, asked a few questions, and
+then spoke of nothing but the strength of the garrison he commanded, and
+desired to know if we had observed that all the lower battery was brass
+guns. We were immediately after, by his order, put into the condemned hole.
+There was nothing but four bare walls, excepting a heap of lime that filled
+one third of it, and made the place swarm with fleas in such a manner that
+we were presently covered with them. Some of Admiral Pizarro's soldiers
+were here in garrison that had been landed from his ships at Buenos Ayres,
+as he could not get round Cape Horn. A centinel's box was placed at our
+door, and we had always a soldier with his bayonet fixed to prevent our
+stirring out. The curiosity of the people was such, that our prison was
+continually full from morning till night, by which the soldiers made a
+pretty penny, as they took money from every person for the sight.
+
+In a few days, Captain Cheap and Mr Hamilton were ordered up to St Jago, as
+they were known to be officers by having saved their commissions; but Mr
+Campbell and I were to continue in prison. Captain Cheap expressed great
+concern when he left us; he told me it was what he had all along dreaded,
+that they would separate us when we got into this country; but he assured
+me, if he was permitted to speak to the president, that he would never
+leave soliciting him till he obtained a grant for me to be sent up to him.
+No sooner were they gone than we fared very badly. A common soldier, who
+was ordered to provide for us by the governor, brought us each, once a day,
+a few potatoes mixed with hot water. The other soldiers of the garrison, as
+well as the people who flocked to see us, took notice of it, and told the
+soldier it was cruel to treat us in that manner. His answer was, "The
+governor allows me but half a real a day for each of these men; what can I
+do? It is he that is to blame; I am shocked every time I bring them this
+scanty pittance, though even that could not be provided for the money he
+gives them."
+
+We from this time lived much better, and the soldier brought us even wine
+and fruit. We took it for granted that our case had been represented to the
+governor, and that he had increased our pay. As to the first, we were right
+in our conjectures; it had been mentioned to him, that it was impossible we
+could subsist on what he allowed; and his answer to it was, that we might
+starve, for we should have no more from him, and that he believed he should
+never be repaid even that. This charitable speech of the governor was made
+known everywhere, and now almost every one who came to see us gave us
+something; even the mule-drivers would take out their tobacco-pouch, in
+which they kept their money, and give us half a real. All this we would
+have given to our soldier, but he never would receive a farthing from us,
+telling us we might still want it; and the whole time we were there, which
+was some weeks, he laid aside half his daily pay to supply us, though he
+had a wife and six children, and never could have the least hope or
+expectation of any recompence. However, two years after this I had the
+singular pleasure of making him some return, when my circumstances were
+much better than his.
+
+One night, when we were locked up, there happened a dreadful shock of an
+earthquake. We expected every moment the roof and walls of our prison to
+fall in upon us and crush us to pieces; and what added to the horror of it
+was, the noise of chains and imprecations in the next prison which joined
+to ours, where there were near seventy felons heavily loaded with irons,
+who are kept here to work upon the fortifications, as in other countries
+they are condemned to the gallies. A few days after this, we were told an
+order was come from the president to the governor to send us up to St Jago,
+which is ninety miles from Valparaiso, and is the capital of Chili. There
+were at this time several ships in the port from Lima delivering their
+cargoes, so that almost every day there were large droves of mules going up
+to St Jago with the goods. The governor sent for one of the master
+carriers, and ordered him to take us up with him. The man asked him how he
+was to be paid our expences, as he should be five days upon the road. The
+governor told him he might get that as he could, for he would not advance
+him a single farthing.
+
+After taking leave of our friendly soldier, who even now brought us some
+little matters to carry with us, we set out, and travelled about fourteen
+miles the first day, and lay at night in the open field, which is always
+the custom of these people, stopping where there is plenty of pasture and
+good water for the mules. The next morning we passed over a high mountain
+called Zapata; and then crossing a large plain, we passed another mountain,
+very difficult for the mules, who each carried two heavy bales: There were
+above an hundred in this drove. The mules of Chili are the finest in the
+world; and though they are continually upon the road, and have nothing but
+what they pick up at night, they are as fat and sleek as high-fed horses in
+England. The fourth night we lay upon a plain in sight of St Jago, and not
+above four leagues from it.
+
+The next day, as we moved towards the city, our master-carrier, who was
+naturally well-disposed, and had been very kind to us all the way upon the
+road, advised me, very seriously, not to think of remaining in St Jago,
+where he said there was nothing but extravagance, vice, and folly, but to
+proceed on with them as mule-driver, which, he said, I should soon be very
+expert at; and that they led an innocent and happy life, far preferable to
+any enjoyment such a great city as that before us could afford. I thanked
+him, and told him I was very much obliged to him, but that I would try the
+city first, and if I did not like it, I would accept of the offer he was so
+good as to make me. The thing that gave him this high opinion of me was,
+that as he had been so civil to us, I was very officious in assisting to
+drive in those mules that strayed from the rest upon those large plains we
+passed over; and this I thought was the least I could do towards making
+some returns for the obligations we were under to him.
+
+When we got into St Jago, the carrier delivered us to the captain of the
+guard at the palace gate, and he soon after introduced us to the president,
+Don Joseph Manso, who received us very civilly, and then sent us to the
+house where Captain Cheap and Mr Hamilton were. We found them extremely
+well lodged at the house of a Scotch physician, whose name was Don Patricio
+Gedd. This gentleman had been a long time in this city, and was greatly
+esteemed by the Spaniards, as well for his abilities in his profession as
+his humane disposition. He no sooner heard that there were four English
+prisoners arrived in that country, than he waited upon the president, and
+begged they might be lodged at his house. This was granted, and had we been
+his own brothers we could not have met with a more friendly reception; and
+during two years that we were with him, his constant study was to make
+every thing as agreeable to us as possible. We were greatly distressed to
+think of the expence he was at upon our account, but it was in vain for us
+to argue with him about it. In short, to sum up his character in a few
+words, there never was a man of more extensive humanity.
+
+Two or three days after our arrival, the president sent Mr Campbell and me
+an invitation to dine with him, where we were to meet Admiral Pizarro and
+all his officers. This was a cruel stroke upon us, as we had not any
+clothes fit to appear in, and dared not refuse the invitation. The next
+day, a Spanish officer belonging to Admiral Pizarro's squadron, whose name
+was Don Manuel de Guiror, came and made us an offer of two thousand
+dollars. This generous Spaniard made this offer without any view of ever
+being repaid, but purely out of a compassionate motive of relieving us in
+our present distress. We returned him all the acknowledgments his uncommon
+generous behaviour merited, and accepted of six hundred dollars only, upon
+his receiving our draught for that sum upon the English consul at Lisbon.
+We now got ourselves decently clothed after the Spanish fashion, and as we
+were upon our parole, we went out where we pleased to divert ourselves.
+
+This city is situated in about 33 degrees and 30 minutes south latitude, at
+the west foot of the immense chain of mountains called the Cordilleras. It
+stands on a most beautiful plain of above thirty leagues extent. It was
+founded by Don Pedro de Baldivia, the conqueror of Chili. The plan of it
+was marked out by him, in squares, like Lima; and almost every house
+belonging to people of any fashion has a large court before it, with great
+gates, and a garden behind. There is a little rivulet, neatly faced with
+stone, runs through every street, by which they can cool the streets or
+water their gardens when they please. The whole town is extremely well
+paved. Their gardens are full of noble orange-trees and floripondies, with
+all sort of flowers, which perfume the houses and even the whole city. Much
+about the middle of it is the great square, called the Placa Real, or the
+Royal Square; there are eight avenues leading into it. The west side
+contains the cathedral and the bishop's palace; the north side is the
+president's palace, the royal court, the council house, and the prison; the
+south side is a row of piazzas, the whole length of which are shops, and
+over it a gallery to see the bull-fights; the east side has some large
+houses belonging to people of distinction, and in the middle is a large
+fountain with a brass bason. The houses have, in general, only a ground
+floor, upon account of the frequent earthquakes; but they make a handsome
+appearance. The churches are rich in gilding as well as in plate: That of
+the Jesuits is reckoned an exceeding good piece of architecture, but it is
+much too high built for a country so subject to earthquakes, and where it
+has frequently happened that thousands of people have been swallowed up at
+once.
+
+There is a hill, or rather high rock, at the east end of the city, called
+St Lucia, from the top of which you have a view of all the city and the
+country about for many leagues, affording a very delightful landscape.
+Their estancias, or country houses, are very pleasant, having generally a
+fine grove of olive trees, with large vineyards to them. The Chili wine, in
+my opinion, is full as good as Madeira, and made in such quantities that it
+is sold extremely cheap. The soil of this country is so fertile, that the
+husbandmen have very little trouble, for they do but in a manner scratch up
+the ground, and without any kind of manure it yields an hundred fold.
+Without doubt the wheat of Chili is the finest in the world, and the fruits
+are all excellent in their kinds. Beef and mutton are so cheap, that you
+may have a good cow for three dollars, and a fat sheep for two shillings.
+Their horses are extraordinary good; and though some of them go at a great
+price, you may have a very good one for four dollars, or about eighteen
+shillings of our money.
+
+It must be a very poor Indian who has not his four or five horses; and
+there are no better horsemen in the world than the Chileans, and that is
+not surprising, for they never chuse to go a hundred yards on foot. They
+have always their laco fixed to their saddle: the laco is a long thong of
+leather, at the end of which they make a sliding noose. It is of more
+general use to them than any weapon whatever, for with this they are sure
+of catching either horse or wild bull, upon full gallop, by any foot they
+please. Their horses are all trained to this, and the moment they find the
+thong straitened, as the other end is always made fast to the saddle, the
+horse immediately turns short, and throwing the beast thus caught, the
+huntsman wounds or secures him in what manner he thinks proper. These
+people are so dexterous, that they will take from the ground a glove or
+handkerchief while their horse is upon full stretch; and I have seen them
+jump upon the back of the wildest bull, and all the efforts of the beast
+could not throw them. This country produces all sorts of metals; it is
+famous for gold, silver, iron, tin, lead, and quicksilver; but some of
+these they do not understand working, especially quicksilver. With copper
+they supply all Peru, and send likewise a great deal to Europe.
+
+The climate of Chili is, I believe, the finest in the world. What they call
+their winter does not last three months, and even that is very moderate, as
+may be imagined by their manner of building, for they have no chimneys in
+their houses. All the rest of the year is delightful, for though, from ten
+or eleven in the morning till five in the afternoon, it is very hot, yet
+the evenings and mornings are very cool and pleasant; and in the hottest
+time of the year, it is from six in the evening till two or three in the
+morning that the people of this country meet to divert themselves with
+music and other entertainments, at which there is plenty of cooling
+liquors, as they are well supplied with ice from the neighbouring
+Cordilleras. At these assemblies many intrigues are carried on: for they
+think of nothing else throughout the year.
+
+Their fandangoes are very agreeable; the women dance inimitably well, and
+very gracefully. They are all born with an ear for music, and most of them
+have delightful voices, and all play upon the guitar and harp. The latter,
+at first, appears a very awkward instrument for a woman, yet that prejudice
+is soon got over, and they far excel any other nation upon it. They are
+extremely complaisant and polite; and when asked either to play, dance, or
+sing, they do it without a moment's hesitation, and that with an exceeding
+good grace. They have many figure-dances, but what they take most delight
+in, are more like our hornpipes than any thing else I can compare them to;
+and upon these occasions they shew surprising activity. The women are
+remarkably handsome, and very extravagant in their dress. Their hair, which
+is as thick as is possible to be conceived, they wear of a vast length,
+without any other ornament upon the head than a few flowers; they plait it
+behind in four plaits, and twist them round a bodkin, at each end of which
+is a diamond rose. Their shifts are all over lace, as is a little tight
+waistcoat they wear over them. Their petticoats are open before, and lap
+over, and have commonly three rows of very rich lace of gold or silver. In
+winter, they have an upper waistcoat of cloth of gold or silver, and in
+summer, of the finest linen, covered all over with the finest Flanders
+lace. The sleeves of these are immensely wide. Over all this, when the air
+is cool, they have a mantle, which is only of bays, of the finest colours,
+round which there is abundance of lace. When they go abroad, they wear a
+veil, which is so contrived that one eye is only seen. Their feet are very
+small, and they value themselves as much upon it as the Chinese do. Their
+shoes are pinked and cut; their stockings silk, with gold and silver
+cloaks; and they love to have the end of an embroidered garter hang a
+little below the petticoat. Their breasts and shoulders are very naked;
+and, indeed, you may easily discern their whole shape by their manner of
+dress. They have fine sparkling eyes, ready wit, a great deal of good
+nature, and a strong disposition to gallantry.
+
+By the description of one house you have an idea of all the rest. You first
+come into a large court, on one side of which is the stable: you then enter
+a hall; on one side of that is a large room, about twenty feet wide, and
+near forty feet long: that side next the window is the estrado, which runs
+the whole length of the room. The estrado is a platform, raised about five
+or six inches above the fioor, and is covered with carpets and velvet
+cushions for the women to sit on, which they do, after the Moorish fashion,
+cross-legged. The chairs for the men are covered with printed leather. At
+the end of the estrado, there is an alcove, where the bed stands; and there
+is always a vast deal of the sheets hanging out, with a profusion of lace
+to them, and the same on the pillows. They have a false door to the alcove,
+which sometimes is very convenient. Besides, there are generally two other
+rooms, one within another, and the kitchen and other offices are detached
+from the house, either at one side, or at the end of the garden.
+
+The ladies are fond of having their Mulatto female slaves dressed almost as
+well as themselves in every respect, excepting jewels, in which they
+indulge themselves to the utmost extravagance. Paraguay tea, which they
+call matte, as I mentioned before, is always drunk twice a day: this is
+brought upon a large silver salver, with four legs raised upon it, to
+receive a little cup made out of a small calabash or gourd, and tipped with
+silver. They put the herb first into this, and add what sugar they please,
+and a little orange juice; and then pour hot water on them, and drink it
+immediately through the conveyance of a long silver tube, at the end of
+which there is a round strainer, to prevent the herb getting through. And
+here it is reckoned a piece of politeness for the lady to suck the tube two
+or three times first, and then give it the stranger to drink without wiping
+it. They eat every thing so highly seasoned with red pepper, that those who
+are not used to it, upon the first mouthful would imagine their throats on
+fire for an hour afterwards; and it is a common custom here, though you
+have the greatest plenty at your own table, to have two or three Mulatto
+girls come in at the time you dine, bringing, in a little silver plate,
+some of these high-seasoned ragouts, with a compliment from Donna such-a-
+one, who desires you will eat a little bit of what she has sent you, which
+must be done before her Mulatto's face, or it would be deemed a great
+affront. Had this been the fashion at Chiloe, we should never have
+offended; but sometimes here we could have wished this ceremony omitted.
+
+The president never asked any of us a second time to his table. He expected
+us once a fortnight to be at his levee, which we never failed, and he
+always received us very politely. He was a man of a very amiable character,
+and much respected by every body in Chili, and some time after we left that
+country was appointed viceroy of Peru.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+
+Account of the Bull Feasts and other Amusements.--Occurrences during nearly
+two Years Residence.--In December, 1744, we embark for Europe in the Lys
+French Frigate.--The Vessel leaky.--Dangerous Voyage.--Narrow Escape from
+English Cruizers.--Arrival in England.--Conclusion.
+
+
+We had leave, whenever we asked it, to make an excursion into the country
+for ten or twelve days at a time, which we did sometimes to a very pleasant
+spot belonging to Don Joseph Dunose, a French gentleman, and a very
+sensible well-bred man, who had married a very agreeable lady at St Jago,
+with a good fortune. We also sometimes had invitations from the Spaniards
+to their country houses. We had a numerous acquaintance in the city, and in
+general received many civilities from the inhabitants. There are a great
+many people of fashion, and very good families from Old Spain settled here.
+A lady lived next door to us, whose name was Donna Francisca Giron; and as
+my name sounded something like it, she would have it that we were
+parientes. She had a daughter, a very fine young woman, who both played and
+sung remarkably well: she was reckoned the finest voice in St Jago. They
+saw a great deal of company, and we were welcome to her house whenever we
+pleased. We were a long time in this country, but we passed it very
+agreeably. The president alone goes with four horses to his coach; but the
+common vehicle here is a calash, or kind of vis-a-vis, drawn by one mule
+only.
+
+Bull-feasts are a common diversion here, and surpass any thing of that kind
+I ever saw at Lisbon, or any where else. Indeed, it is amazing to see the
+activity and dexterity of those who attack the bulls. It is always done
+here by those only who follow it as a trade, for it is too dangerous to be
+practised as a diversion; as a proof of which, it is found, that though
+some may hold out longer than others, there are few who constantly practise
+it that die a natural death. The bulls are always the wildest that can be
+brought in from the mountains or forests, and have nothing on their horns
+to prevent their piercing a man at the first stroke, as they have at
+Lisbon. I have seen a man, when the bull came at him with the utmost fury,
+spring directly over the beast's head, and perform this feat several times,
+and at last jump on his back, and there sit a considerable time, the bull
+the whole time attempting every means to throw him. But though this
+practitioner was successful, several accidents happened while I was there.
+The ladies, at these feasts, are always dressed as fine as possible; and, I
+imagine, go rather to be admired than to receive any amusement from a sight
+that one should think would give them pain.
+
+Another amusement for the ladies here, are the nights of their great
+processions, when they go out veiled; and in that dress, they amuse
+themselves in talking to people much in the manner that is done at our
+masquerades. One night in Lent, as I was standing close to the houses while
+the procession went by, and having nothing but a thin waistcoat on under my
+cloak, and happening to have my arm out, a lady came by, and gave me a
+pinch with so good a will, that I thought she had taken the piece out; and,
+indeed, I carried the marks for a long time after. I durst not take the
+least notice of this at the time, for had I made any disturbance, I should
+have been knocked on the head. This kind lady immediately after mixed with
+the crowd, and I never could find out who had done me that favour. I have
+seen fifty or sixty penitents following these processions; they wear a long
+white garment with a long train to it, and high caps of the same, which
+fall down before and cover all their faces, having only two small holes for
+their eyes, so that they are never known. Their backs are bare, and they
+lash themselves with a cat-o'-nine-tails till the long train behind is
+covered all over with blood. Others follow them with great heavy crosses
+upon their backs, so that they groan under the weight as they walk
+barefooted, and often faint away. The streets swarm with friars of all the
+different orders. The president has always a guard at his palace regularly
+clothed. The rest of their forces consists of militia, who are numerous.
+
+All European goods are very dear. English cloth of fourteen or fifteen
+shillings a yard, sells there for ten or eleven dollars, and every other
+article in proportion. We found many Spaniards here that had been taken by
+Commodore Anson, and had been for some time prisoners on board the
+Centurion.. They all spoke in the highest terms of the kind treatment they
+had received; and it is natural to imagine, that it was chiefly owing to
+that laudable example of humanity our reception here was so good. They had
+never had any thing but privateers and buccaneers amongst them before, who
+handled their prisoners very roughly, so that the Spaniards in general,
+both of Peru and Chili, had the greatest dread of being taken by the
+English; but some of them told us, that they were so happy on board the
+Centurion, that they should not have been sorry if the commodore had taken
+them with him to England.
+
+After we had been here some time, Mr Campbell changed his religion, and of
+course left us. At the end of two years, the president sent for us, and
+informed us a French ship from Lima, bound to Spain, had put into
+Valparaiso, and that we should embark in her. After taking leave of our
+good friend Mr Gedd, and all our acquaintance at St Jago, we set out for
+Valparaiso, mules and a guide being provided for us. I had forgot to say
+before, that Captain Cheap had been allowed by the president six reals a
+day, and we had four for our maintenance the whole time we were at St Jago,
+which money we took up as we wanted it. Our journey back was much
+pleasanter than we found it when we were first brought hither, as we had
+now no mules to drive. The first person I met, upon our entrance into
+Valparaiso, was the poor soldier whom I mentioned to have been so kind to
+us when we were imprisoned in the fort. I now made him a little present,
+which, as it came quite unexpected, made him very happy. We took lodgings
+till the ship was ready to sail, and diverted ourselves as we pleased,
+having the good fortune, at this time, to have nothing to do with the
+governor or his fort. The town is but a poor little place; there are,
+indeed, a good many storehouses built by the water-side for the reception
+of goods from the shipping.
+
+About the 20th of December, 1744, we embarked on board the Lys frigate,
+belonging to St Malo. She was a ship of four hundred and twenty tons,
+sixteen guns, and sixty men. She had several passengers on board, and
+amongst the rest Don George Juan, a man of very superior abilities, (and
+since that time well known in England) who, with Don Antonio Ulloa, had
+been several years in Peru, upon a design of measuring some degrees of the
+meridian near the equator. We were now bound to Conception, in order to
+join three other French ships that were likewise bound home. As this was a
+time of the year when the southerly winds prevailed upon this coast, we
+stood off a long way to the westward, making the island of Juan Fernandez.
+We did not get into the Bay of Conception till the 6th of January, 1745,
+where we anchored at Talcaguana, and there found the Louis Erasme, the
+Marquis d'Antin, and the Delivrance, the three French ships that we were to
+accompany. It is but sixty leagues from Valparaiso to Conception, though we
+had been so long making this passage; but there is no beating up, near the
+shore, against the southerly wind, which is the trade at this season, as
+you are sure to have a lee-current; so that the quickest way of making a
+passage is to stand off a hundred and twenty or thirty leagues from the
+land.
+
+The Bay of Conception is a large fine bay, but there are several shoals in
+it, and only two good anchoring places, though a ship may anchor within a
+quarter of a league of the town, but this only in the very fine months, as
+you lay much exposed. The best anchoring-place is Talcaguana, the
+southernmost neck of the bay, in five or six fathom water, good holding
+ground, and where you are sheltered from the northerly winds. The town has
+no other defence but a low battery, which only commands the anchoring-place
+before it. The country is extremely pleasant, and affords the greatest
+plenty of provisions of all kinds. In some excursions we made daily from
+Talcaguana, we saw great numbers of very large snakes, but we were told
+they were quite harmless.
+
+I have read some former accounts of Chili, by the Jesuits, wherein they
+tell you that no venomous creature is to be found in it, and that they even
+made the experiment of bringing bugs here, which died immediately, but I
+never was in any place that swarmed with them so much as St Jago; and they
+have a large spider there, whose bite is so venomous, that I have seen from
+it some of the most shocking sights I ever saw in my life; and it certainly
+proves mortal, if proper remedies are not applied in time. I was once bit
+by one on the cheek whilst asleep, and presently after all that part of my
+face turned as black as ink. I was cured-by the application of a bluish
+kind of stone (the same, perhaps, they call the serpent-stone in the East
+Indies, and which is a composition.) The stone stuck for some time of
+itself on my face, and dropping off, was put into milk till it had digested
+the poison it had extracted, and then applied again till the pain abated,
+and I was soon afterwards well.
+
+Whilst the ships remained at Conception, the people were employed in
+killing of cattle and salting them for the voyage, and every ship took on
+board as many bullocks and sheep as their decks could well hold, and having
+completed their business here, they sailed the 27th of January; but about
+eight days after our ship sprung a very dangerous leak forward, but so low,
+that there was no possibility of stopping it without returning into port,
+and lightening her till they could come at it. Accordingly we separated
+from the other ships, and made the best of our way for Valparaiso, keeping
+all hands at the pump night and day, passengers and all. However, as it
+happened, this proved a lucky circumstance for the Lys, as the three other
+ships were taken, and which certainly would have been her fate likewise had
+she kept company with the rest. As soon as we got into port, they lightened
+the ship forwards, and brought her by the stern till they came at the leak,
+which was soon, stopped. They made all the dispatch possible in completing
+the water again. Whilst at Valparaiso, we had one of the most violent
+shocks of an earthquake that we had ever felt yet.
+
+On the first of March we put to sea again, the season being already far
+advanced for passing Cape Horn. The next day we went to an allowance of a
+quart of water a day for each man, which continued the whole passage. We
+were obliged to stand a long way to the westward, and went to the northward
+of Juan Fernandez above a degree, before we had a wind that we could make
+any southing with. On the 25th, in the latitude of 46 degrees, we met with
+a violent hard gale at west, which obliged us to lie-to under a reefed
+mainsail for some days, and before we got round the cape, we had many very
+hard gales, with a prodigious sea and constant thick snow; and after being
+so long in so delightful a climate as Chili, the cold was almost
+insupportable. After doubling the cape, we got but slowly to the northward;
+and indeed, at the best of times, the ship never went above six knots, for
+she was a heavy-going thing. On the 27th of May we crossed the Line, when
+finding that our water was grown extremely short, and that it would be
+almost impossible to reach Europe without a supply, it was resolved to bear
+away for Martinico. On the 29th of June, in the morning, we made the island
+of Tobago, and then shaped a course for Martinico, and on the first of
+July, by our reckonings, expected to see it, but were disappointed. This
+was imputed to the currents, which, whether they had set the ship to the
+eastward or westward, nobody could tell; but, upon looking over the charts,
+it was imagined, if the current had driven her to the westward, it must
+have been among the Granadillos, which was thought impossible without
+seeing any of them, as they are so near together, and a most dangerous
+place for rocks. It was then concluded we were to the eastward, and
+accordingly we steered S.W. by W.; but having run this course for above
+thirty leagues, and no land appearing, it was resolved to stand to the
+northward till we should gain the latitude of Porto Rico, and on the 4th in
+the evening we made that island, so that it was now certain the ship had
+been hustled through the Granadillos in the night, which was, without
+doubt, as extraordinary a passage as ever ship made.
+
+It was now resolved to go between the islands of Porto Rico and St. Domingo
+for Cape Francois, therefore we lay-to that night. In the morning, we made
+sail along shore; and about ten o'clock, as I was walking the quarter-deck,
+Captain Cheap came out of the cabin, and told me he had just seen a beef-
+barrel go by the ship, that he was sure it had but lately been thrown
+overboard, and that he would venture any wager we saw an English cruizer
+before long. In about half an hour after, we saw two sail to leeward from,
+off the quarter-deck, for they kept no look-out from the mast-head, and we
+presently observed they were in chace of us. The French and Spaniards on
+board now began to grow a good deal alarmed, when it fell stark calm, but
+not before the ships had neared us so much, that we plainly discerned them
+to be English men of war, the one a two-decker, the other a twenty-gun
+ship. The French had now thoughts, when a breeze should spring up, of
+running the ship on shore upon Porto Rico; but when they came to consider
+what a set of banditti inhabited that island, and that in all probability
+they would have their throats cut for the sake of plundering the wreck,
+they were resolved to take their chance, and stand to the northward between
+the two islands.
+
+In the evening, a fresh breeze sprung up, and we shaped a course
+accordingly. The two ships had it presently afterwards, and neared us
+amazingly fast. Now every body on board gave themselves up; the officers
+were busy in their cabins filling their pockets with what was most
+valuable; the men put on their best clothes, and many of them came to me
+with little lumps of gold, desiring I would take them, as they said they
+had much rather I should benefit by them, whom they were acquainted with,
+than those that chaced them. I told them there was time enough, though I
+thought they were as surely taken as if the English had been already on
+board. A fine moonlight night came on, and we expected every moment to see
+the ships alongside of us; but we saw nothing of them in the night, and to
+our great astonishment in the morning no ships were to be seen even from
+the mast-head. Thus did these two cruizers lose one of the richest prizes
+by not chasing an hour or two longer. There were near two millions of
+dollars on board, besides a valuable cargo.
+
+On the eighth, at six in the morning, we were off Cape La Grange; and, what
+is very remarkable, the French at Cape Francois told us afterwards that was
+the only day they ever remembered since the war, that the cape had been
+without one or two English privateers cruising off it; and but the evening
+before two of them had taken two outward-bound St Domingo-men, and had gone
+with them for Jamaica, so that this ship might be justly esteemed a most
+lucky one. In the afternoon we came to an anchor in Cape Francois harbour.
+
+In this long run we had not buried a single man, nor do I remember that
+there was one sick the whole passage, but at this place many were taken
+ill, and three or four died, for there is no part of the West Indies more
+unhealthy than this; yet the country is beautiful, and extremely well
+cultivated. After being here some time, the governor ordered us to wait
+upon him, which we did, when he took no more notice of us than if we had
+been his slaves, never asking us even to sit down.
+
+Towards the end of August, a French squadron of five men of war came in,
+commanded by Monsieur L'Etanducre, who were to convoy the trade to France.
+Neither he nor his officers ever took any kind of notice of Captain Cheap,
+though we met them every day ashore. One evening, as we were going aboard
+with the captain of our ship, a midshipman belonging to Monsieur
+L'Etanducre jumped into our boat, and ordered the people to carry him on
+board the ship he belonged to, leaving us to wait upon the beach for two
+hours before the boat returned.
+
+On the sixth of September, we put to sea, in company with the five men of
+war and about fifty sail of merchantmen. On the eighth, we made the Cayco
+Grande; and the next day a Jamaica privateer, a large fine sloop, hove in
+sight, keeping a little to windward of the convoy, resolving to pick up one
+or two of them in the night if possible. This obliged Monsieur L'Etanducre
+to send a frigate to speak to all the convoy, and order them to keep close
+to him in the night, which they did, and in such a manner, that sometimes
+seven or eight of them were on board one another together, by which they
+received much damage; and to repair which, the whole squadron was obliged
+to lay-to sometimes for a whole day. The privateer kept her station,
+jogging on with the fleet. At last, the commodore ordered two of his best
+going ships to chace her. She appeared to take no notice of them till they
+were pretty near her, and then would make sail and be out of sight
+presently. The chacing ships no sooner returned, than the privateer was in
+company again.
+
+As by this every night some accident happened to some of the convoy by
+keeping so close together, a fine ship of thirty guns belonging to
+Marseilles, hauled out a little to windward of the rest of the fleet, which
+L'Etanducre perceiving in the morning, ordered the frigate to bring the
+captain of her on board of him; and then making a signal for all the convoy
+to close to him, he fired a gun, and hoisted a red flag at the ensign
+staff, and immediately after the captain of the merchantman was run up to
+the main-yard-arm, and from thence ducked three times. He was then sent on
+board his ship again, with orders to keep his colours flying the whole day,
+in order to distinguish him from the rest. We were then told, that the
+person who was treated in this cruel manner was a young man of an exceeding
+good family in the south of France, and likewise a man of great spirit, and
+that he would not fail to call Monsieur L'Etanducre to an account when an
+opportunity should offer; and the affair made much noise in France
+afterwards. One day, the ship we were in happened to be out of her station,
+by sailing so heavily, when the commodore made the signal to speak to our
+captain, who seemed frightened out of his wits. When we came near him, he
+began with the grossest abuse, threatening our captain, that if ever he was
+out of his station again, he would serve him as he had done the other. This
+rigid discipline, however, preserved the convoy; for though the privateer
+kept company a long time, she was not so fortunate as to meet with the
+reward of her perseverance.
+
+On the 27th of October, in the evening, we made Cape Ortegal, and on the
+31st came to an anchor in Brest road. The Lys, having so valuable a cargo
+on board, was towed into the harbour next morning, and lashed alongside one
+of their men of war. The money was soon landed; and the officers and men,
+who had been so many years absent from their native country, were glad to
+get on shore. Nobody remained on board but a man or two to look after the
+ship, and we three English prisoners, who had no leave to go ashore. The
+weather was extremely cold, and felt particularly so to us, who had been so
+long used to hot climates; and what made it still worse, we were very
+thinly clad. We had neither fire nor candle, for they were allowed on board
+of no ship in the harbour for fear of accidents, being close to their
+magazines in the dock-yard. Some of the officers belonging to the ship were
+so kind as to send us off victuals every day, or we might have starved, for
+Monsieur L'Intendant never sent us even a message; and though there was a
+very large squadron of men of war fitting out at that time, not one officer
+belonging to them ever came near Captain Cheap. From five in the evening we
+were obliged to sit in the dark; and if we chose to have any supper, it was
+necessary to place it very near us before that time, or we never could have
+found it.
+
+We had passed seven or eight days in this melancholy manner, when one
+morning a kind of row-galley came alongside with a number of English
+prisoners belonging to two large privateers the French had taken. We were
+ordered into the same boat with them, and were carried four leagues up the
+river to Landernaw. At this town we were upon our parole, so took the best
+lodgings we could get, and lived very well for three months, when an order
+came from the court of Spain to allow us to return home by the first ship
+that offered. Upon this, hearing there was a Dutch ship at Morlaix ready to
+sail, we took horses and travelled to that town, where we were obliged to
+remain six weeks before we had an opportunity of getting away. At last we
+agreed with the master of a Dutch dogger to land us at Dover, and paid him
+beforehand.
+
+When we had got down the river into the road, a French privateer that was
+almost ready to sail upon a cruize, hailed the Dutchman, and told him to
+come to an anchor, and that if he offered to sail before him he would sink
+him. This he was forced to comply with, and lay three days in the road,
+cursing the Frenchman, who at the end of that time put to sea, and then we
+were at liberty to do the same. We had a long uncomfortable passage. About
+the ninth day, before sunset, we saw Dover, and reminded the Dutchman of
+his agreement to land us there. He said he would, but instead of that in
+the morning we were off the coast of France. We complained loudly of this
+piece of villainy, and insisted upon his returning to land us, when an
+English man of war appeared to windward, and presently bore down, to us.
+She sent her boat on board with an officer, who informed us that the ship
+he came from was the Squirrel, commanded by Captain Masterton. We went on
+board of her, and Captain Masterton immediately sent one of the cutters he
+had with him to land us at Dover, where we arrived that afternoon, and
+directly set out for Canterbury upon post-horses; but Captain Cheap was so
+tired by the time he got there, that he could proceed no farther that
+night.
+
+The next morning he still found himself so much fatigued, that he could
+ride no longer; therefore it was agreed that he and Mr Hamilton should take
+a post-chaise, and that I should ride: but here an unlucky difficulty was
+started, for upon sharing the little money we had, it was found to be not
+sufficient to pay the charges to London; and my proportion fell so short,
+that it was, by calculation, barely enough to pay for horses, without a
+farthing for eating a bit upon the road, or even for the very turnpikes.
+Those I was obliged to defraud, by riding as hard as I could through them
+all, not paying the least regard to the men, who called out to stop me. The
+want of refreshment I bore as well as I could.
+
+When I got to the Borough, I took a coach and drove to Marlborough-street,
+where my friends had lived when I left England; but when I came there, I
+found the house shut up. Having been absent so many years, and in all that
+time never having heard a word from home, I knew not who was dead or who
+was living, or where to go next, or even how to pay the coachman. I
+recollected a linen-draper's shop, not far from thence, which our family
+had used. I therefore drove there next, and making myself known, they paid
+the coachman. I then enquired after our family, and was told my sister had
+married Lord Carlisle, and was at that time in Soho-square. I immediately
+walked to the house, and knocked at the door; but the porter not liking my
+figure, which was half French half Spanish, with the addition of a large
+pair of boots covered with dirt, he was going to shut the door in my face,
+but I prevailed with him to let me come in.
+
+I need not acquaint my readers with what surprise and joy my sister
+received me. She immediately furnished me with money sufficient to appear
+like the rest of my countrymen; and till that time I could not be properly
+said to have finished all the extraordinary scenes which a series of
+unfortunate adventures had kept me in for the space of five years and
+upwards.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+A VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH-SEAS, IN THE YEARS 1740, AND 1741:
+
+CONTAINING
+
+A faithful NARRATIVE of the Loss of his Majesty's Ship the WAGER, on a
+desolate Island in the Latitude 47 South, Longitude 81: 40 West: With the
+Proceedings and Conduct of the Officers and Crew, and the Hardships they
+endured in the said Island for the Space of five Months; their bold Attempt
+for Liberty, in coasting the Southern Part of the vast Region of Patagonia;
+setting out with upwards of eighty Souls in their Boats; the Loss of the
+Cutter; their Passage through the Streights of Magellan; an Account of
+their Manner of Living in the Voyage on Seals, Wild Horses, Dogs, &c. and
+the incredible Hardships they frequently underwent for want of Food of any
+Kind; a Description of the several Places where they touched in the
+Streights of Magellan, with an Account of the Inhabitants, &c. and their
+safe Arrival to the Brazil, after sailing one thousand Leagues in a Long-
+boat; their Reception from the Portuguese; an Account of the Disturbances
+at Rio Grand; their Arrival at Rio Janeiro; their Passage and Usage on
+board a Portuguese Ship to Lisbon; and their Return to England.
+
+Interspersed with many entertaining and curious Observations, not taken
+Notice of by Sir John Narborough, or any other Journalist:
+
+
+_The Whole compiled by Persons concerned in the Facts related_, viz.
+
+JOHN BULKELEY AND JOHN CUMMINS,
+
+Late Gunner and Carpenter of the WAGER.
+
+
+
+_Bold were the Men who on the Ocean first
+Spread the new Sails, when Shipwreck was the worst;
+More Dangers now from Man alone we find,
+Than from the Rocks, the Billows, and the Wind_. WALLER.[119]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+BULKELEYS NARRATIVE.
+
+
+
+
+TO THE HONOURABLE EDWARD VERNON, ESQ. VICE-ADMIRAL OF THE BLUE, &c.
+
+
+Sir,
+
+We have presumed to put the following sheets under your protection, though
+we have not the honour of being personally known to you, nor have applied
+to you for the liberty of using your celebrated name on this occasion.
+
+As this book is a faithful extract from the journals of two British seamen,
+late officers in his majesty's navy, we thought we could not more properly
+dedicate it than to a British Admiral.
+
+We know your detestation of flattery; and you know, from long experience,
+that a British seaman hath a spirit too brave to stoop to so degenerate a
+practice.
+
+The following pages, we hope, will recommend themselves to you, because
+they are written in a plain maritime style, and void of partiality and
+prejudice.
+
+The distresses mentioned in this book have perhaps not been equalled in our
+age; and we question whether any navigators living have, for so long a
+continuance, suffered such variety of hardships, as the unfortunate people
+of the Wager.
+
+After surviving the loss of the ship, and combating with famine and
+innumerable difficulties, a remnant of us are returned to our native
+country; but even here we are still unfortunate, destitute of employment,
+almost without support, or any prospect of being restored to our stations,
+till some important questions are decided, which cannot be cleared up till
+the arrival of our late captain, or at least the commodore.
+
+We, sir, who present you with this book, have been several years in the
+navy, and thought ourselves well acquainted with its laws and discipline,
+and have many certificates to produce, that we have always acted in
+obedience to command; but the proceedings of the officers and people, since
+the loss of the ship, are reckoned so dark and intricate, that we know not
+what to expect, nor what will be the result of our superiors determination.
+
+The only consolation we have in our present anxiety, is placed in a
+confidence of the unbiassed integrity, justice, and humanity of the right
+honourable persons who will one day determine for or against us.
+
+When you read our account of the affair, you'll find the facts impartially
+related, the whole narrative written without the least shadow of prejudice
+or malice, and no more in favour of ourselves, than of the other officers
+concerned: We stand or fall by the truth; if truth will not support us,
+nothing can.
+
+In our voyage from the Brazil to Lisbon, we were obliged to you for the
+generous treatment we met with from an enemy, a subject of Spain, a person
+of distinction, and a passenger in the same ship: your virtues have
+procured you the esteem even of your enemies.
+
+Your zeal for the national service deserves the love of every honest
+Briton: to leave an abundant fortune, your family, and your country, to
+hazard your life in the most perilous expeditions, with no other motive
+than to retrieve the honour of the nation, shows the spirit of a true
+British hero, and deserves the highest commendations.
+
+That you, sir, may never deviate from your integrity, but continue a terror
+to the enemies of Britain, an honour to his majesty's service, and an
+ornament to your country, are the sincere wishes of,
+
+Honourable Sir,
+Your most dutiful,
+And most obedient
+Humble Servants,
+John Bulkeley,
+John Cummins.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+BULKELEY'S NARRATIVE.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+As an Introduction, we think proper to acquaint the reader with our reasons
+for causing the following sheets to be made public to the world. The chief
+motive which induced us to this task, was to clear our characters, which
+have been exceedingly blemished by persons who, (next to Heaven) owe the
+preservation of their lives to our skill and indefatigable care; and who
+having an opportunity of arriving before us in England, have endeavoured to
+raise their reputation on the ruin of ours.
+
+It will appear to the reader, on perusal of the following pages, that this
+journal was attempted to be taken from us by violence at Rio Janeiro; that
+we have preserved it at the hazard of our lives; that there was no journal
+kept after the loss of the ship, by any officers but ourselves; and if we
+had not been careful in making remarks on each day's transactions, persons
+must have continued in the dark, in relation to all the subsequent
+proceedings.
+
+It is a very usual thing to publish voyages, especially when the navigators
+have met with any extraordinary events. We believe our expedition, though
+it was not a secret, is allowed to be an extraordinary one, consequently
+attended with extraordinary events: Indeed, while the commodore was with
+us, every thing went well; but when the squadron separated, things began to
+have a new face: After the loss of the Wager, there was a general disorder
+and confusion among the people, who were now no longer implicitly obedient.
+There were two seamen particularly, who propagated this confusion, they
+said they had suffered shipwreck in his majesty's ship the Biddeford, and
+received no wages from the day that the ship was lost; that when they were
+out of pay, they looked upon themselves as their own masters, and no longer
+subjected to command. The people, however, were not altogether infected,
+but still continued to pay a dutiful respect to their commander; but when
+the captain had rashly shot Mr Cozens, (whose fate the reader will find
+particularly related) they then grew very turbulent and unruly; the captain
+daily lost the love of the men, who with their affection lost their duty.
+
+Our confining the captain is thought an audacious and unprecedented action,
+and our not bringing him home with us is reckoned worse; but the reader
+will find that necessity absolutely compelled us to act as we did, and that
+we had sufficient reasons for leaving him behind.
+
+Our attempt for liberty, in sailing to the southward through the straits of
+Magellan, with such a number of people stowed in a long-boat, has been
+censured as a mad undertaking: Desperate diseases require desperate
+remedies; had we gone to the northward, there appeared no probability of
+escaping the Spaniards, and when we had fallen into their hands, 'tis not
+unlikely but they might have employed us as drudges in their mines for
+life; therefore we rather chose to encounter all difficulties than to
+become slaves to a merciless enemy.
+
+Some persons have objected against our capacity for keeping a journal of
+this nature; but several judges of maritime affairs allow this work to be
+exact and regular. We think persons with a common share of understanding,
+are capable of committing to paper daily remarks of matter worthy their
+observation, especially of facts in which they themselves had so large a
+share. We only relate such things as could not possibly escape our
+knowledge, and what we actually know to be true. We don't set up for
+naturalists and men of great learning, therefore have avoided meddling with
+things above our capacity.
+
+We are also condemned by many for being too busy and active for persons in
+our stations. There was a necessity for action, and a great deal of it too;
+and had we been as indolent and regardless for the preservation of the
+people as others who were superior in command, there would not have been a
+single man who was shipwrecked in the Wager, now in England to give any
+relation of the matter.
+
+The gentleman who commanded in the long-boat, on his arrival before us at
+Lisbon, represented us to the English merchants in a very vile light; we
+were even advised by some of our friends there not to return to our
+country, lest we would suffer death for mutiny. But when the gentlemen of
+the factory had perused our journal, they found, if there was any mutiny in
+the case, the very person who accused us was the ringleader and chief
+mutineer. We were confident of our own innocence, and determined to see our
+country at all events, being positive that we have acted to the best of our
+understandings, in all respects, for the preservation of our lives and
+liberties; and when our superiors shall think proper to call us to an
+account, which we expect will be at the commodore's arrival, we do not
+doubt but we shall clear ourselves in spite of all invidious reflections
+and malicious imputations.
+
+It has been hinted to us, as if publishing this journal would give offence
+to some persons of distinction. We can't conceive how any transactions
+relating to the Wager, although made ever so public, can give offence to
+any great man at home. Can it be any offence to tell the world that we were
+shipwrecked in the Wager, when all people know it already? Don't they know
+that the Wager was one of his majesty's store-ships? That we had on board
+not only naval stores, but other kind of stores, of an immense value? Don't
+they also know that we went abroad with hopes of acquiring great riches,
+but are return'd home as poor as beggars? We are guilty of no indecent
+reproaches, or unmannerly reflections; though, it is certain, we cannot but
+lament our being engaged in so fatal an expedition. When persons have
+surmounted great difficulties, it is a pleasure for them to relate their
+story; and if we give ourselves this satisfaction, who has any cause to be
+offended? Are we, who have faced death in so many shapes, to be
+intimidated, lest we should give offence to the--Lord knows whom? We never
+saw a satyrical journal in our lives, and we thought that kind of writing
+was the most obnoxious to give offence.
+
+It has been a thing usual, in publishing of voyages, to introduce abundance
+of fiction; and some authors have been esteemed merely for being
+marvellous. We have taken care to deviate from those, by having a strict
+regard to truth. There are undoubtedly in this book some things which will
+appear incredible.
+
+The account we give of the Patagonian Indians, and our own distresses,
+though ever so well attested, will not easily obtain credit; and people
+will hardly believe that human nature could possibly support the miseries
+that we have endured.
+
+All the difficulties related we have actually endured, and perhaps must
+endure more: Till the commodore's arrival we cannot know our fate; at
+present we are out of all employment, and have nothing to support ourselves
+and families, but the profits arising from the sale of our journal; which
+perhaps may be the sum total we shall ever receive for our voyage to the
+South Seas.
+
+
+
+
+A VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS.
+
+
+On Thursday the 18th of September, 1740, sailed from St Hellens his
+majesty's ship Centurion, Commodore Anson, with the Gloucester, Pearl,
+Severn, Wager, and Tryal, and two store-ships; this squadron was designed
+round Cape-Horn into the South Seas, to distress the Spaniards in those
+parts. The ships were all in prime order, all lately rebuilt. The men were
+elevated with hopes of growing immensely rich, and in a few years of
+returning to Old England loaden with the wealth of their enemies.
+
+Saturday, the 20th, the Ram-head bearing N. by W., distant four leagues,
+the commodore hoisted his pendant, and was saluted by every ship in the
+squadron, with thirteen guns each. This day joined company with us his
+majesty's ships Dragon, Winchester, South-Sea-Castle, and Rye-Galley, with
+a large convoy of merchant ships.
+
+Thursday, the 25th, we parted company with the Winchester and the South-
+Sea-Castle, with their convoys, bound for America.
+
+On Monday, we parted company with the Streights and Turkey convoys.
+
+Friday, October the 3d, at eight in the morning, we saw two brigantines to
+the south-east; the commodore gave a signal to chace, at nine fired two
+shots to bring 'em to, at ten spoke with the chace, being two brigs from
+Lisbon, bound for New York.
+
+Sunday, the 26th, about five in the morning, the Severn shewed lights, and
+fired several guns a-head; soon after we saw the land bearing W. by S, and
+at noon the east end of Madeira bore north, distant five leagues.
+
+Wednesday, we moored in Fonchiale road, so called from a city of that name,
+which is the metropolis of the island of Madeira; here we employed most of
+our time in getting aboard water, and stowing our dry provisions between
+decks.
+
+Tuesday, November the 4th, Captain Kidd our commander was removed on board
+the Pearl, and the Honourable Captain Murray succeeded him in the Wager.
+Captain Norris of the Gloucester having obtained leave to return to
+England, on account of his ill state of health, occasioned the above
+removals.
+
+While we lay at Madeira, we were informed of ten sail of ships cruising off
+and on, to the westward, these ships were judged to be French, and had been
+seen every day for a week before our arrival: The commodore sent out a
+privateer sloop, but she returned the day following, without seeing 'em, so
+that we can give no account of 'em.
+
+On Wednesday, the 5th, we sailed, from Madeira. On the 2Oth the Industry
+store-ship parted company, and on Friday the 28th, by account, we crossed
+the equinoctial.
+
+On the 17th of December, we saw the island of St Catharine, at noon, the
+northmost land in sight bore W.N.W., and the southmost S.W. by W. Variation
+per amplitude 12; 57 easterly.
+
+On the 18th, the north end of the island of St Catharine bore N.W. by W.,
+distant seven leagues, and the island of Gaul bore N.W., distant six
+leagues.
+
+On the 19th we anchored in St Catharine's bay, in upward of twelve fathom
+water, the island Gaul on the coast of Brazil, bearing N. by E., distant
+four leagues. On the 20th, we anchored in St Catharine's road, and the day
+following, we moored between the island of St Catharine and the main.
+
+On Monday, the 22d, the commodore ordered fresh beef for the sick people.
+
+On the 27th, came in a Portuguese brig from Rio Janeiro, for the Rio Grand:
+While we lay here, the people were generally employed in over-hauling the
+rigging, and getting aboard water.
+
+On the 17th of January, 1741, we sailed from St Catharine's, the commodore
+saluted the fort with eleven guns, the fort returned the same number.
+
+On Thursday, the 22d, we lost sight of the Pearl.
+
+On Tuesday, the 17th of February, the Pearl joined the squadron, and on the
+19th we came to anchor off the river of St Julian's, on the coast of
+Patagonia; St Julian's hill bearing S.W. by W., and the southmost land in
+sight S. by E., distant from the shore three leagues. This day our captain,
+the Honourable George Murray, took command on board the Pearl, Captain Kidd
+having died on the voyage since we left St Catharine's.
+
+Captain Kidd was heard to say, a few days before his death, that this
+voyage, which both officers and sailors had engaged in with so much
+cheerfulness and alacrity, would prove in the end very far from their
+expectations, notwithstanding the vast treasure they imagined to gain by
+it; that it would end in poverty, vermin; famine, death, and destruction.
+How far the captain's words were prophetic will appear in the course of our
+journal. Captain C--p succeeded Captain Murray on board the Wager.
+
+On the 26th of February, we sent on board the Pearl twelve butts and two
+puncheons of water, the Pearl having, while she was separated from us, been
+chased by five large Spanish men of war, the commander in chief being
+distinguished by a red broad pendant with a swallow's tail at his main-top-
+mast head, and a red flag at his ensign-staff: During the chace, the Pearl,
+in order to clear ship, threw overboard and stove fourteen tons of water;
+she likewise stove the long-boat, and threw her overboard, with oars,
+sails, and booms, and made all clear for engaging, but night coming on at
+seven o'clock lost sight of the enemy, at five in the morning saw the
+Spanish ships from the mast-head, two points on the lee-quarter, still
+giving chace, and crowding all the sail they could, but at nine the Pearl
+lost sight of 'em entirely. We judged this to be admiral Pizarro's
+squadron, sent out in pursuit of Commodore Anson. Had our ships united
+fallen in with 'em, 'tis probable we might have given a good account of
+'em. While we lay at St Julian's we saw the sea full of shrimps, and red as
+if they were boiled, the water appeared tinctured to that degree, that it
+looked like blood.
+
+On the 27th, we sent on board the Pearl four puncheons of water more; at
+six in the morning, the commodore made signal to weigh, at eight weighed,
+and came to sail; this day we lost sight of the Gloucester.
+
+The 28th, the Gloucester came into the squadron again.
+
+On the 7th of March we passed through the Streights of Le Mair; Cape Diego,
+on the island of Terra de Fuego, bore N.W., three leagues, and the west end
+of the island, Staten Land, bore E.N.E., distant four leagues, the squadron
+under reeft courses.
+
+On the 10th, we lost sight of the Ann pink, on the 12th carried away the
+rails and timbers of the head on both sides.
+
+On the 16th, the Ann pink joined the squadron again.
+
+On the 3Oth, the Gloucester broke her main-yard in the slings.
+
+April the 1st, the commodore ordered Mr Cummins, the carpenter, on board
+the Gloucester.
+
+On the 8th, carried away the mizen-mast, two feet above the awning; there
+was no sail on the mast. Upon the rowl of a sea, all the chain-plates to
+windward broke, lat. 56, 31, long. 87.4, west. At noon Cape St Bartholomew
+bore north, 84 deg. E., distant 229 leagues.
+
+The 10th, lost sight of the Severn and Pearl, lat. 56, 29, long. 85 west.
+At ten last night fell in with two small islands; at eight in the morning
+the islands bore N.N.W., by the compass distant eight leagues, in the
+latitude 54, 00 south; we took 'em for the islands which lay off Brewer's
+Streights, lat. 54, 50 south, long. 84, 56 west.
+
+On the 12th, we had very hard gales at west, with the largest swell I ever
+saw; I was officer of the watch (though I was gunner of the ship, I had the
+charge of a watch during the whole voyage); we had our larboard tacks on
+board: Between six and seven in the morning, holding by the topsail
+hallyards to wind-ward, there broke a sea in the ship, which carried me
+over the wheel, bilged the cutter, and canted her over the sheet's bottom
+up athwart the barge; it likewise half filled the long-boat; the boatswain
+was for heaving the cutter overboard, I order'd him to do nothing with her
+till I had acquainted the captain, who was then very ill in his cabin: The
+captain desired me to use all means to save the cutter; at the same time I
+ask'd leave to skuttle the long-boat, and get the sprit-sail yard and jib
+in, for fear of endangering the bowsprit; which he ordered to be done, and
+told me, it was a very great misfortune that he should be ill at such a
+time. When I came from the captain, I found the lieutenant on the deck, got
+the cutter in her place, skuttled the long-boat, and got the sprit-sail
+yard and jib-boom in. The carpenter is still aboard the Gloucester.
+
+The 13th, under reeft courses, the larboard tacks; the commodore being on
+the weather quarter, bore down under our lee, and spoke with us. He ask'd
+the captain, if the carpenter was returned from the Gloucester? The captain
+answer'd, No; and am surprised Captain M----d should detain him, when he
+knows I must want him about my mizen-mast. The commodore told him he would
+speak with the Gloucester, and order him on board. He then ask'd the
+captain why he did not set the main-top-sail, and make more sail? Captain
+C----p made answer, My rigging is all gone, and broke fore and aft, and my
+people almost all taken ill, and down; but I will set him as soon as
+possible. The commodore desired he would, and make what sail he could after
+him.
+
+The 14th, the carpenter return'd from the Gloucester, it being the only day
+this fortnight a boat could live in the sea. As soon as the carpenter came
+on board, he waited on the captain, who order'd him to look on the chain-
+plates and chains, and give his opinion of the mast's going away. The
+carpenter look'd as order'd, and gave Captain C----p for answer, that the
+chain-plates were all broke. The captain shook his head, and said,
+Carpenter, that is not the reason of the mast's going away. The carpenter,
+not willing, as the mast was gone, to lay it to any one's mismanagement, or
+to occasion any uneasiness about what was now past prevention, fitted a cap
+on the stump of the mizen-mast, got up a lower studding-sail boom of 40
+feet, and hoisted a sail to keep the ship to.
+
+To-day, being the 19th, and the finest day we had in these seas, we were
+employ'd in repairing the rigging; we bent a new main-sail and reeft him,
+as did the Anne pink, the Gloucester at the same time fix'd her main-yard,
+the commodore and Tryal keeping a-head, and at a considerable distance;
+between four and six at night saw the commodore's light. At six, being
+relieved by the master, he could not see the commodore's light, though it
+was visible to every one else on the quarter-deck: The master still
+persisted he could not see it, on which I went and acquainted the captain,
+who came upon deck, and seeing the light, ask'd the master where his eyes
+were? This was the last time I ever saw the commodore. The lieutenant
+having the first watch lost sight of him at nine o'clock, and at ten was
+obliged to hand the foresail, in doing of which we lost a seaman over-
+board. We saw the Gloucester and Anne pink a-stern in the morning, but they
+were soon gone ahead, and out of sight.
+
+The 21st, as I was in the steward's room, Joseph King, seaman, came for a
+pound of bread. I heard him ask the steward, if he thought they would be
+serv'd with the same quantity of water as before? Without waiting for an
+answer, No G--d d--n 'em, as the commodore was parted, they should find the
+difference. Not knowing the conseqence of this, or by whom the fellow might
+be spirited up, I acquainted the captain with the affair, who order'd me to
+deliver a brace of pistols charg'd with a brace of balls to every officer
+in the ship who wanted 'em, and to take no farther notice of the matter.
+
+May the 1st. This day the officers were call'd, and their opinions ask'd
+concerning the best bower-anchor, resolved to cut the anchor away, for fear
+of endangering the ship, there being no possibility of securing it without
+putting our fore-mast in extreme danger, the shrouds and chain-plates being
+all broke.
+
+Fourteen days before the loss of the ship, the wind at S. and S.S.W.,
+steered N.W. by N., and N.N.W. by the compass: Laid the ship to for the
+first four nights; the meaning of this I could not learn. I ask'd the
+lieutenant the reason of our bearing for the land on a lee shore, when we
+had a fair wind for our rendezvous, which I had always thought was for the
+island of Juan Ferdinandez. The lieutenant told me the rendezvous was
+alter'd to an island in the latitude of 44 S. Upon this I said to the
+lieutenant, this was a very great misfortune to us, that we can do nothing
+with the ship in the condition she is in upon a lee shore, and am surpriz'd
+that we should be obliged to go there. The lieutenant told me, he had said
+every thing to dissuade the captain from it, but found him determined to go
+there. The fifth night, and every night after, made sail; the wind to the
+westward. I never relieved the lieutenant, but I ask'd him, what he thought
+of a lee shore with the ship in this condition? he always reply'd, he could
+not tell. We saw rock-weed in abundance pass by the ship. The Honourable
+J---n B---n, midshipman, being on the quarter-deck, said, We can't be far
+off the land by these weeds. The lieutenant and mate being by, I said,
+Gentlemen, what can we do with the ship in the miserable condition she is
+in on a lee shore? The lieutenant answer'd, Whenever I have been with the
+captain since our first lying-to, I always persuaded him to go for Juan
+Ferdinandez; therefore I would have you go to him, he may be persuaded by
+you tho' he will not by me. I said, If that was the case, my going to him
+is needless. In a quarter of an hour afterwards, the captain sent for me,
+and said, Gunner, what longitude have you made? I told him 82,30. What
+distance do you reckon yourself off the land? I answer'd, About 60 leagues;
+but if the two islands we saw are these which are laid down in your chart
+to lie off Brewer's Streights, and the same current continues with the
+western swell, we can't be above a third part of the distance off the land.
+The captain made answer, As for the currents, there is no account to be
+given for 'em; sometimes they set one way, and sometime another. I said,
+Sir, very true, but as the ship has been always under reeft courses, and
+the mizen-mast gone, she must wholly drive to leeward, and nigher the land
+than expected. The captain then told me, I suppose you are not unacquainted
+of my rendezvous for the island of Nostra Signora di Socora, in the
+latitude of 44. I reply'd, Sir, the ship is in a very bad condition to come
+in with the lee shore, and if it is possible to bring the ship to an
+anchor, we shall never purchase him again. The captain answered, I don't
+design to come to an anchor; for there are soundings until you come within
+seven leagues of the land. I purpose to stand off and on twenty-four hours;
+and if I don't see the commodore, or any of the squadron in that time, we
+will go for Juan Ferdinandez. To this I said, Sir, the ship is a perfect
+wreck; our mizen-mast gone, with our standing rigging afore and abaft, and
+all our people down; therefore I can't see what we can do in with the land.
+The captain's answer was, It does not signify, I am obliged and determin'd
+to go for the first rendezvous.
+
+On the 13th, at eight in the morning, the straps of the fore-jeer blocks
+broke; reev'd the top ropes, and lower'd the yard; went to strapping the
+blocks. At nine, the carpenter going forward to inspect the chain-plates,
+saw the land from the fore-castle, on which he ask'd the boatswain's mate,
+who was by him, if he saw the land? he answer'd, No; the carpenter shew'd
+it him and he saw it plain. The carpenter then shew'd it to the lieutenant,
+but he would not believe it to be land, because it bore N.N.W., and said it
+was impossible; therefore he never inform'd the captain of the sight of
+land, as the Honourable Mr B----n hath heard the captain say. At two in the
+afternoon lower'd the fore-yard, and hawl'd the fore-sail up;
+notwithstanding I was officer of the watch, I was oblig'd to go upon the
+fore-yard, where was Mr Campbell, midshipman, one boatswain's mate, four
+seamen, and the master's servant, which were all the hands we could get out
+of the ship's company to assist. Whilst on the yard I saw the land very
+plain, on the lardboard beam, bearing N.W. half N., nearest high land, with
+hillocks, and one remarkable hommocoe like a sugar loaf, very high. At the
+sight of land I came off the fore-yard and acquainted the captain. He
+immediately gave orders to sway the fore-yard up, and set the fore-sail;
+then we wore ship with her head to the southward. The captain coming
+forward unhappily received a fall, which dislocated his shoulder, so that
+he was obliged to be put into the surgeon's cabin. Some time after he sent
+for the lieutenant and myself, acquainting us of the necessity there was
+for making sail, as being on a lee shore, therefore desired we would use
+our utmost endeavours to crowd the ship off. You see, gentlemen, said he,
+my misfortune will not permit me to continue on the deck; as for the
+master, he is not worthy of the charge of a watch, therefore I must desire
+you, Mr Bulkeley, to be in the watch with him, and to make but two watches;
+keep a good look-out, and if possible, set the main-top sail. Mr B----s, I
+must desire Mr Cummins to be with you, and beg you will take all the care
+you can. I having the first watch, set the main fore and mizen stay sail,
+it blew so hard I found it impossible to set the maintop sail, of which, I
+acquainted the captain: All the hands we cou'd muster in both watches,
+officers included, were but twelve, the rest of the ship's company were all
+sick below; I very often could get no more than three seamen in my watch.
+The ship for these three weeks hath been no better than a wreck, the mizen-
+mast gone, the standing rigging and chain-plates, afore and abaft, mostly
+broke and ruin'd. The top sails now at the yards are so bad, that if we
+attempt to loose'em for making sail, we are in danger of splitting'em, and
+we have not a spare sail in the ship that can be brought to the yard
+without being repair'd. This is the present deplorable situation of the
+ship. All the first and middle watch it blow'd and rain'd, and withal so
+very dark, that we could not see the length of the ship: For the greatest
+part of the night she came up no nearer than S. by W., and S.S.W. At four
+in the morning she came up with her head west, so that her head was then
+off the shore.
+
+Thursday, May the 14th, 1741, at half an hour past four this morning, the
+ship struck abaft on a sunken rock, sounded fourteen fathom; but it being
+impossible to let go the anchor time enough to bring her up, being
+surrounded on every side with rocks, (a very dismal prospect to behold!)
+the ship struck a second time, which broke the head of the tiller, so that
+we were obliged to steer her with the main and fore-sheets, by easing off
+one, and hawling aft the other, as she came to, or fell off. In a short
+time after, she struck, bilged, and grounded, between two small islands,
+where Providence directed us to such a place as we could save our lives.
+When the ship struck it was about break of day, and not above a musket-shot
+from the shore. Launched the barge, cutter, and yawl over the gunnel, cut
+main and fore-mast by the board, and the sheet-anchor from the gunnel. The
+captain sent the barge ashore, with Mr S----w, the mate, to see if the
+place was inhabited, and to return aboard directly; but, without any regard
+to his duty, or the preservation of the lives of the people, he staid
+ashore. The barge not returning as expected, the lieutenant was sent in the
+yawl, with orders to bring off the barge. The lieutenant tarried ashore,
+but sent off the boat. As soon as the boat came on board, the captain being
+very ill, was persuaded by the officers to go ashore: With the captain went
+the land-officers, mate, and midshipmen, the officers remaining on board
+were the master, boatswain, gunner, and carpenter: The boatswain, who was
+laid up a month before the loss of the ship, became of a sudden very
+vigorous and active. At night it blow'd very hard at north, with a great
+tumbling sea, we expected every moment that the ship would part, fetching
+such jirks and twistings as shock'd every person aboard, who had the least
+care for the preservation of life; yet, in the dismal situation we were in,
+we had several in the ship so thoughtless of their danger, so stupid and
+insensible of their misery, that upon the principal officers leaving her,
+they fell into the most violent outrage and disorder: They began with
+broaching the wine in the lazaretto; then to breaking open cabins and
+chests, arming themselves with swords and pistols, threatening to murder
+those who should oppose or question them: Being drunk and mad with liquor,
+they plunder'd chests and cabins for money and other things of value,
+cloathed themselves in the richest apparel they could find, and imagined
+themselves lords paramount.
+
+Friday the 15th, the ship was bilged in the mid-ship, on a great rock; we
+took care to secure some powder, ball, and a little bread. In the
+afternoon, the carpenter and myself went ashore with several of those
+imaginary lords in the rich attire they had plunder'd yesterday; but upon
+the purser, and Lieutenant Hamilton of marines, presenting pistols to some
+of their breasts, those grandees suffer'd themselves very quietly to be
+disrob'd of all their greatness, and in a few minutes look'd like a parcel
+of transported fellons. On our coming ashore, we found the captain had
+taken his lodging in a little hut, supposed to be built by Indians; as for
+our parts, we were forced to take shelter under a great tree, where we made
+a large fire, but it rain'd so hard, that it had almost cost us our lives;
+an invalid died that very night on the spot. Before I left the ship I went
+to my cabin for my journal, but could not find it; I believe it is
+destroyed with the rest, for there is not one journal to be produced, we
+have good reason to apprehend there was a person employ'd to destroy them;
+I afterwards found part of the master's journal along shore, tore to
+pieces: Whatever is related in this book, preceding the loss of the Wager,
+is extracted from a journal belonging to a gentleman, lately an officer on
+board the Pearl. After we lost sight of the Pearl, I was obliged to have
+recourse to my memory, which I believe has been very faithful to me. From
+the time we were ship-wreck'd, the carpenter and myself were exceeding
+careful in writing each day's transactions: Had other persons taken the
+same care, there would be no necessity of imposing upon the publick a
+partial and inconsistent narrative, instead of a faithful relation of
+facts.
+
+On the 16th, the weather very boisterous and a great sea, the boatswain
+wanted a boat, but finding no appearance of any coming aboard, brought a
+quarter-deck gun, a four pounder, to bear on the captain's hut, and fir'd
+two shot, which went just over the captain's tent. This day, being resolv'd
+to contrive something like a house, to secure us from the inclemency of the
+rain, and severity of the weather, we hawl'd up the cutter, and propping
+her up, we made a tolerable habitation. As for food, this island produces
+none; nor is there any vegetable upon it but cellery, which grows here in
+abundance, and is of great use to us, the men being in general very much
+troubled with the scurvy.
+
+On the 17th of May, being Whitsunday, got several wild fowls, and plenty of
+muscles, limpets, and other shell-fish, which we find very refreshing,
+having subsisted a long time on nothing but salt provisions.
+
+The 18th, went on board the ship, to see if it was possible to come at any
+provisions; got out of the Lazaretto two casks of flour and some wine,
+which were very useful.
+
+On the 19th, went aboard again to scuttle the decks, in order to get some
+beef and pork out of the hold; we also scuttled the carpenter's store-room
+for nails and other things of service.
+
+The 20th, cut away the gunnel to get the long-boat out, which was done. To-
+day we found several men dead, and some drowned, in the ship, suppos'd to
+have drank till they were not able to get from the water, as it flowed into
+the ship. While we were aboard working on the wreck, there came along-side
+a canoe with several Indians, bowing and crossing themselves, giving us to
+understand they were inclinable to the Romish religion; we gave 'em out of
+the ship two bales of cloth and sent them ashore to the captain, he gave
+them hats, and presented each of them with a soldier's coat. They had
+abundance of the largest and best muscles I ever saw, or tasted. This day
+was the first time of the boatswain's coming ashore; the captain called him
+rogue and villain, and felled him to the ground with his cane, so that he
+was motionless, and to appearance dead; when he had recovered the blow, and
+saw a cock'd pistol in the captain's hand, he offered his naked breast; the
+captain told him, he deserved to be shot, and said no more to him. The
+captain, lieutenant H--n of marines, the surgeon, and purser, always
+appear'd in arms on the beach, on the coming ashore of every boat, in order
+to prevent the people bringing any thing from the ship in a clandestine
+manner; they were so cautious of any thing being imbezzled, that they would
+not suffer the boats to go off and work by night, notwithstanding the moon,
+tides, and fairness of weather were more favourable to us by night than
+day; by this we omitted several opportunities of getting our provisions,
+and other useful things, which we shall shortly stand in great need of.
+
+The 21st, continue to scuttle between decks, in getting necessaries out of
+the ship, found several men dead.
+
+The 22d, the Indians brought us three sheep and some muscles. They are a
+people of a small stature, well shaped, of an olive complection, with black
+hair, in behaviour very civil, they have little clothes, except about their
+waists, notwithstanding the climate is very cold. They stay'd all night, it
+being very rainy weather, and has been ever since we have been here, the
+wind blowing from N. to N.W.
+
+Saturday the 23d, the wind from the E.N.E. to north, fell abundance of
+snow, insomuch that the mountains are cover'd with it. It freezes very
+hard, and we find it extremely cold. The next day, the same weather, we
+went aboard, and scuttled for flour in the forehold.
+
+The 25th, little wind at N.E. and frosty weather, went aboard again, and
+got out of the forehold eight barrels of flour, one cask of pease, with
+some brandy and wine. This day went to allowance, of half a pound of flour
+per man, and one piece of pork for three men, it being the first time of
+serving since on shore.
+
+The 26th, we got out more casks of flour, one cask of oatmeal, with some
+brandy and wine. In the evening the Indians came with their wives, we gave
+the women hats, and the men breeches; they made signs as if they would
+bring more sheep.
+
+On the 27th, we scuttled over the captain's store-room, got out several
+casks of rum and wine, and brought them ashore. This was the first time of
+the lieutenant's being between decks since the loss of the ship. The
+following day we went aboard, cut down and tost overboard the ship's
+awning, to make a deck for the long-boat.
+
+Since the 27th, we have been employ'd in getting up the long-boat, and
+repairing the barge which had been stove ashore. Rainy weather.
+
+On Wednesday, the 3d of June, hard gales of wind at N.N.W., with abundance
+of rain; deserted this day James Mitchel, carpenter's mate, John Russel,
+armourer, William Oram, carpenter's crew, Joseph King, John Redwood,
+boatswain's yeomen, Dennis O'Lawry, John Davis, James Roach, James Stewart,
+and William Thompson, seamen. Took up, along shore, one hogshead of brandy,
+and several things that drove out of the ship, a bale of cloth, hats,
+shoes, and other necessaries. An information was given, this day, by David
+Buckley, to the captain, that there was a design to blow him up, with the
+surgeon, and lieutenant H--n of marines. The train was actually found, laid
+by the deserters, to blow 'em up the night before they went off.
+
+Thursday the 4th, we finished the boats, and shot several wild geese.
+Finding murmurings and discontents among the people, we secured the oars,
+and hawled up the boats, being apprehensive they would go away with them by
+night.
+
+The 5th, we went on board the ship, found several casks of wine and brandy
+between decks, most part of the planks between decks gone, and some strakes
+to wind-ward started out, part of the upper deck blown up, the stumps of
+the masts and pumps risen five feet; brought ashore one cask of flour, with
+some stuff for the use of the long-boat; and two quarter casks of wine; the
+wind at S. by E.
+
+Saturday the 6th, the wind at south and fair weather, we went aboard, got
+out of the hold eight casks of flour, two casks of wine, and a quarter cask
+and three hogsheads of brandy. The lieutenant went to the Indians, but
+could not find 'em, being inform'd by the deserters that they were gone.
+
+On Sunday the 7th, we went aboard the ship, got out a cask of pork, two
+barrels of flour, started one pipe of wine, and brought it ashore, with a
+quarter cask of pease, some bales of cloth, and carpenter's stores. This
+day Mr Henry Cozens, midshipman, was confin'd by the captain; the fault
+alledg'd against him was drunkenness. We learn from Nicholas Griselham,
+seaman, who was present and near the captain all the time, that as Mr
+Cozens was rowling up a steep beach a cask of pease, he found it too heavy
+for him, and left off rowling; the captain seeing this, told him he was
+drunk, Mr Cozens reply'd, With what should I get drunk, unless it be with
+water? The captain then said, You scoundrel, get more hands, and rowl the
+cask up: Cozens called for more hands, but no people came; with that the
+captain struck him with his cane. Griselham likewise says, that Cozens
+talked to the captain about one Captain Sh--lv--k; but the words he does
+not remember. But the same night I heard Mr Cozens use very unbecoming
+language to the captain, telling him, That he was come into those seas to
+pay Sh--lv--k's debts, and also insolently added, Tho' Sh--lv--k was a
+rogue, he was not a fool, and by G-d, you are both. When he spoke this, he
+was a prisoner in the store-tent, and asked the captain, If he was to be
+kept there all night? On these provocations, the captain attempted to
+strike him again, but the centinel said, he should strike no prisoner of
+his. But Cozens endeavouring to stave a cask of brandy, was soon after
+released. This day got out of the ship several chests of wax candles of all
+sizes, bales of cloth, bales of stockings, shoes, with some clocks and
+mercantile wares, with which the ship was throng'd.
+
+The 8th, Mr Cummins and myself went to the deserters; we find they were
+determined to go off to the northward; the reason of their stay is the want
+of craft to go off in. They now find themselves mistaken, they believed at
+first they were on the main, but are convinced they are four or five
+leagues from it, therefore they purpose to build a punt out of the wreck of
+the ship: They live on sea-weed and shell-fish, got up one cask of beef,
+which was brought on shore with a cask of brandy, found one cask of beef on
+the rocks.
+
+On Tuesday the 9th, I went with the doctor's mate to the deserters, and
+spoke to William Oram, a carpenter, and a very useful man, desiring him to
+return, with a promise of pardon from the captain: In this affair I was
+obliged to act very secretly. To-day, Mr Cozens, the midshipman, had a
+dispute with the surgeon; the latter having some business in our tent,
+which, when he had done, on his going away, Mr Cozens followed him; they
+soon fell to blows, but the surgeon had so much the advantage of the
+midshipman, that he tied his hands behind him and left him. In the evening
+the captain sent for me and the carpenter to his tent: We found the
+captain, lieutenant, purser, surgeon, and lieutenant H----n of marines.
+Here we had a consultation, which was chiefly concerning the disturbances
+among the people, as well in our tent as in the rest. Mr Cummins and I
+assured the captain, that the people in our tent were generally very well
+affected to him, and that we never would engage in any mutiny against him,
+or any other officer that would act for the publick good, and his majesty's
+service: The captain said, he had no reason to suspect us, for we were the
+only two in the ship that he put any trust or confidence in. Strict orders
+were given the centinel to keep a good look-out, and have a watchful eye on
+the provisions. Notwithstanding all this precaution and care, there was
+one-third part of a barrel of flour and half a barrel of gunpowder taken
+away that night. It is to be observed, that this day's consultation was the
+first that Captain C----p ever had with his officers; had he sometimes
+consulted them aboard, we might probably have escaped our present unhappy
+condition.
+
+Wednesday the 10th, this day, serving the provisions, the boatswain's
+servant, a Portuguese boy, talking bad English, and bringing in the
+allowance of wine, the boatswain, Mr Cozens, midshipman, and the cook his
+mess-mates, with some difficulty, understood by the boy's talk, that one of
+the men had his allowance stopped; Mr Cozens went to know the reason; the
+purser and he having some dispute two or three days before, the purser told
+him, when he asked for his wine, that he was come to mutiny, and without
+any farther ceremony, discharged a pistol at his head, and would have shot
+him, had he not been prevented by the cooper's canting the pistol with his
+elbow, at the instant of its going off; the captain and lieutenant H----n,
+hearing the discharge of a pistol, the latter ran out with a firelock, then
+called the captain out of his tent, telling him that Cozens was come to
+mutiny; the captain on this jumped out, asking where the villain was,
+clapped a cock'd pistol to Mr Cozen's cheek, and precipitately shot him,
+without asking any questions; the noise of the two pistols going off
+reached our tent; it was rainy weather, and not fit for gunning, so that we
+could not imagine the meaning of it; soon after we heard Mr Cozens was shot
+by the captain: The lieutenant came to call all hands to the captain: I
+asked if we must go armed, the lieutenant answered, Yes; but, on
+consideration, I thought better to go without arms: When we came to the
+captain, he acquainted us with what he had done, and told us he was still
+our commander. The captain, purser, surgeon, lieutenants H----n, E----rs,
+and F----ng of marines, being all armed, I said to the captain. Sir, you
+see we are disarmed; on this the captain dropped his firelock to the
+ground, saying, I see you are, and have only sent for you, to let you all
+know I am still your commander, so let every man go to his tent;
+accordingly every man obeyed him. In our tent, we had eighteen of the
+stoutest fellows that belonged to the ship, and I believe the captain, and
+the gentlemen above- mentioned, have some suspicion of Mr Cummins and
+myself, believing we can sway most of the seamen on shore: But I think this
+day we have given a proof of the sincerity of our intentions, and our
+detestation of mutiny, by not appearing in arms at the report of Mr Cozens
+being shot; we walked up with the captain, where we saw Mr Cozens with his
+elbow on the ground resting his right cheek on the palm of his hand, alive,
+and to appearance sensible, but speechless; the captain ordered him to the
+sick-tent, the surgeon's mate dressed his left cheek where he was shot, and
+felt a ball about three inches under his right eye; the surgeon refused
+dressing him: This we may impute to his having lately a quarrel with Mr
+Cozens, which has been already mentioned. The shooting of Mr Cozens was a
+very unhappy affair; The person whose allowance was stopped made no
+complaint to him, he was too officious in the business, and his preceding
+behaviour, and notorious disrespectful words to the captain, might probably
+make the captain suspect his design was mutiny; tho' this we must aver,
+that Mr Cozens neither on this, or any other occasion, appeared in arms
+since the loss of the ship. However, his fate laid the foundation of a
+great deal of mischief which afterwards followed.
+
+Thursday the 11th, moderate gales at W.N.W. The carpenter employed in
+laying the blocks for the long-boat. Dr O----y, of the land forces, was
+desired to assist the surgeon's mate, to take the ball out of Mr Cozens's
+cheek, which he then was inclinable to do, but in the afternoon, finding it
+not agreeable to the captain, refused to go, as we are informed by the
+surgeon's mate, who desired some surgeon might be present, to be witness of
+the operation; the ball was taken out, and for some time supposed to be
+lost, but was afterwards found.
+
+This day being the 12th, the carpenter finished the blocks for lengthening
+the long-boat: In the morning he went to the captain's tent for some bolts
+for the use of the long-boat, where he saw the surgeon at the medicine-
+chest, who asked him how that unfortunate creature did, meaning Mr Cozens;
+the carpenter told him, he had not seen him to-day: The surgeon then said
+he would have visited him, but the captain would not give him leave. This
+was looked on as an act of inhumanity in the captain, and contributed very
+much to his losing the affections of the people, whose opinion was, that as
+Mr Cozens was very strong and healthy, with proper assistance he might
+recover; the people did not scruple to say, that the captain would act a
+more honourable part to discharge another pistol at him, and dispatch him
+at once, than to deny him relief, and suffer him to languish in a cold wet
+place in pain and misery.
+
+On the 13th, Mr Cozens being, to all outward appearance, likely to recover,
+desired he might be removed to our tent, which was his place of residence
+before this unhappy accident. We being unwilling to disoblige the captain,
+the carpenter and myself waited on him; we told him, we were come to ask a
+favour, hoping that he would have so much mercy and compassion on the
+unhappy man who was in the sick tent, as to permit us to remove him to his
+former lodging, but the captain answer'd, No, I am so far from it, that if
+he lives, I will carry him a prisoner to the commodore, and hang him.
+
+On the 14th, went aboard the ship, but could do nothing, she working so
+very much, we brought ashore the fore-top sail yard; the boat went up the
+river, brought back abundance of geese and shaggs. Wind at west.
+
+Monday the 15th, hard gales of wind at west, with rain and hail; drove
+ashore three barrels of flour and abundance of small stuff out of the ship;
+took up a-long shore several pieces of pork and beef: John Anderson, a
+seaman, walking round the rocks, and reaching after a piece of beef,
+slipping his footing, was drown'd, but taken up directly, and that night
+bury'd: Turn'd the boatswain out of our tent for breeding quarrels; his
+turbulent temper was so well known to the captain, that he express'd
+himself pleas'd at our turning him out, and said he was surprized we ever
+admitted him among us.
+
+On the 7th, the carpenter at work on the long-boat: The surgeon's mate,
+this day took out of Mr Cozens's cheek a ball much flatted, and a piece of
+bone, supposed to be part of the upper jaw, which was desired by Mr Cozens
+to be deliver'd to me; I receiv'd it, with the first ball mention'd to have
+been lost.
+
+Thursday the 18th, the carpenter cut the long-boat in two, and lengthen'd
+her eleven feet ten inches and half by the keel.
+
+Sunday the 21st, went aboard the ship, but it being dangerous going about
+any thing, by reason of her working much, and a great sea tumbling in, the
+boats were employ'd in going about the rocks in search of subsistence.
+
+The 22d, the carpenter went with the boat up the bay to seek the Indians,
+but saw nothing of them; at night the boat returned, the people having shot
+abundance of wildfowl.
+
+The 23d, the lieutenant went with the boat, and found the Indians just come
+from the place where they catch seal; their canoes were loaded with seal,
+sheep, and oil.
+
+Wednesday the 24th, departed this life, Mr Henry Cozens, midshipman, after
+languishing fourteen days with the wound he had received in his cheek: We
+bury'd him in as decent a manner as time, place, and circumstances would
+allow. There have died sundry ways since the ship first struck, forty-five
+men; seven have deserted from us, and still continue away; remain and now
+victual'd one hundred men.
+
+Thursday the 25th, the wind at W.N.W. and rainy weather; saw the Indians
+coming towards us in their canoes, but the deserters settling where they
+took their habitation, when first we saw 'em, by their rowing, we thought
+they were design'd to go there; and knowing the deserters intended to take
+one of their canoes to go over the main, we therefore launch'd the yawl and
+went off to them; there were five canoes of 'em, laden with seal, shell-
+fish, and four sheep; they brought with 'em their wives and children, so
+that in all they were about fifty in number; they hawl'd their canoes up,
+and built four wigg whims, which they cover'd with the bark of trees and
+seal-skins; we imagined by this they had an intention to settle with us;
+they are a very simple and inoffensive people, of a low stature, flat-
+nos'd, with their eyes sunk very deep in their heads; they live continually
+in smoak, and are never without a fire, even in their canoes; they have
+nothing to cover their nakedness, but a piece of an old blanket, which they
+throw over their shoulders: We always see 'em in this manner,
+notwithstanding we cloath 'em whenever they come to us. By the crosses set
+up in many parts of the land, one would think they had some notion of the
+Romish religion: We can't make 'em understand us by any speech, nor by our
+signs: We show'd 'em a looking-glass; when they saw the representation of
+themselves, they seem'd amaz'd, and shew'd a thousand antick gestures, and
+when once they beheld themselves in the looking-glass, they could hardly be
+prevail'd on to look off.
+
+On Sunday the 28th, in the afternoon, about twelve of the Indian women went
+off in their canoes: We thought they were gone to get muscles, but soon saw
+'em diving, which we imagin'd was for pieces of beef or pork that come out
+of the wreck; but, when they came ashore, we found they had been only
+diving for sea-eggs. The women among those people seem to take more pains
+for the provisions of life than the men; the latter having little to do but
+to provide wood, and indulge themselves by the fire, while the women go
+every tide a fishing. To-day we kill'd two Indian sheep.
+
+Monday the 29th, launch'd the yawl to go with the Indians to shew us where
+they get the muscles; but being too late for the tide, we came away without
+any: The captain sent to our tent two quarters of mutton; the carpenter
+daily at work on the long-boat. Winds variable.
+
+On the 30th, the Indian women went again for sea-eggs, and brought a great
+quantity, with abundance of white maggots, about three quarters of an inch
+in length, and in circumference the bigness of a wheat-straw. These women
+keep an incredible time under water, with a small basket in their hands,
+about the size of the women's work-baskets in England, into which they put
+whatever they get in their diving. Among these people the order of nature
+seems inverted; the males are exempted from hardships and labour, and the
+women are meer slaves and drudges. This day one of our seamen died: We
+observe, the Indians are very watchful of the dead, sitting continually
+near the above-mention'd corpse, and carefully covering him, every moment
+looking on the face of the deceas'd with abundance of gravity: At the
+burial their deportment was grave and solemn, seeing the people with their
+hats off during the service, they were very attentive and observant, and
+continued so till the burial was over: They have nothing, as I have said
+before, but a blanket to cover 'em, and the boys and girls are quite naked,
+notwithstanding we felt it as cold here, as in the hardest frosts in
+England, and almost always rainy.
+
+Wednesday, July the 1st, employ'd in cutting timbers in the woods for the
+long-boat; rainy weather, the wind at S.W. the Indian women diving for food
+as before.
+
+Thursday the 2d, last night the store-tent was broke open, and robb'd of a
+great deal of flour.
+
+Monday the 6th, hard gales of wind, with showers of rain and hail, came
+ashore from the ship one cask of beef, with several of the lower-deck
+carlings, and plank of the upper and lower-deck beams, and, what was
+reckon'd very odd, the cabin-bell came ashore, without its being fasten'd
+to any wood, or any one thing of the ship near it.
+
+Tuesday the 7th, hard gales of wind, with hail, rain, and lightning: The
+Indian women went out as usual in their canoes to dive for sea-eggs, and
+brought ashore abundance of 'em; they jump overboard out of their canoe
+about a mile from shore, they take the handle of their baskets, which I
+have already described, between their teeth, diving five or six fathom
+water; their agility in diving, and their continuance under water for so
+long a time as they generally do, will be thought impossible by persons who
+have not been eye-witnesses of it; they seem as amphibious to us as seals
+and alligators, and rarely make use of any provisions but what they get out
+of the sea.
+
+Wednesday the 8th, launch'd the yawl and went on board, saw several casks,
+some of meat, and some of liquor, the decks and sides abaft drove out, and
+entirely gone, the larboard-side abaft drove on shore; about two miles and
+a half from the tent a cask of liquor was found, and broach'd by the person
+who found it, which was allow'd to be a great fault; he likewise broach'd a
+cask of meat, which should have been preserv'd to carry away with us.
+
+On Thursday the 9th, the Indians with their wives and children launch'd
+their canoes, and went away, 'tis believ'd they wanted provisions, such as
+seal, they are indeed never settled long in a place; it was said some of
+our people wanted to have to do with their wives, which was the reason of
+their going away so soon. To-day we saw several things drive out of the
+ship up the lagoon, as the stump of the main-mast, one of the pumps, with
+one of the gun-carriages. Wind at N.W.
+
+Friday the 10th, went aboard the ship, found her broke asunder just at the
+gang-way, saw the cables out to the windward, but could not see any casks
+of liquor or provisions, went to shorter allowance of flour, one pound for
+three men per diem. Last night the tent was robbed of half a barrel of
+flour. Orders were given by the captain to watch the store-tent by night;
+all the officers, the marine included, with the mates and midshipmen, were
+oblig'd to watch, the captain and carpenter alone excus'd, the carpenter
+being every day at work on the long-boat.
+
+Friday the 17th, for this week past hard gales of wind, with rain and hail
+as usual. Last Wednesday the ship parted her upper works from the lower
+deck: Launch'd the boat and went off to the wreck, but could do nothing,
+went up the bay, took a quarter cask, about three parts full of wine, saw
+the Indian dogs ashore, but no people.
+
+Saturday the 18th, launched the boat, sent her to the wreck, and brought
+ashore one cask of beef, it is believed some guns were heard from the sea:
+The watch reported they have heard them two nights past. Great disturbances
+among the people. Wind at E.N.E. and frosty weather.
+
+Sunday the 19th, launch'd the boat, sent her to the wreck, hook'd a cask
+supposed to be beef, but when towed ashore, we found it contained nothing
+but hatches; we took up along ashore, abundance of checque shirts in
+dozens, also caps, bales of cloth, and pieces of beef and pork.
+
+Wednesday the 22d. This day began to build a house to dwell in, finding our
+stay here will be much longer than we at first expected.
+
+The 23d, took up along shore several pieces of beef and pork, shirts, caps,
+frocks, trowsers, pieces of cloth, with other serviceable things, and wax
+candles of all sizes.
+
+Saturday the 25th, hard showers of rain and hail, the wind at north. Shot
+several sea-gulls, geese, hawks, and other birds: The carpenter had this
+day given him by one of the people, a fine large rock crab, it being the
+first of the kind we ever saw here.
+
+Sunday the 26th, moderate gales and variable winds, with rain and hail:
+Most part of our people eat a weed that grows on the rocks; it is a thin
+weed of a dark green colour, and called by the seamen, Slaugh. It is
+surprizing how the black currant trees, which are here in great plenty,
+have budded within these three days. Began thatching our new house with
+bushes: To-day we caught a fine rock-fish; this is the first fish we have
+seen alive since our being here. Observing our new town, we find there are
+no less than 18 houses in it.
+
+Monday the 27th, launched the boat, went to the wreck, but found nothing;
+close weather, the wind still at north: Rose the sheets for erecting a tent
+over the long-boat to keep the men from being exposed to the continual
+rains. This day we finished the thatching of our new house.
+
+Wednesday the 29th, fresh gales at N.W. with rain; sure no men ever met
+with such weather as we have in this climate: To-day we walked in the woods
+to take some notice of the trees, which we find to be very much like our
+beech in England; but the trees and bushes are in general of a soft free
+nature, and with a spicy bark.
+
+Thursday the 30th, wind still at N.W. and rainy weather. This day departed
+this life, Nathaniel Robinson, the last private man of the invalids; there
+are now only two left, viz. the captain and surgeon. Being at the
+honourable Mr B----n's tent, I found him looking in Sir John Narborough's
+voyage to these seas: This book I desired the loan of, he told me it was
+Captain C----p's, and did not doubt but he would lend it me; this favour I
+requested of the captain, and it was presently granted. Carefully perusing
+this book, I conceived an opinion that our going through the Streights of
+Magellan for the coast of Brasil, would be the only way to prevent our
+throwing ourselves into the hands of a cruel, barbarous, and insulting
+enemy: Our long-boat, when finished, can be fit for no enterprize, but the
+preservation of life: As we cannot act offensively, we ought to have regard
+to our safety and liberty. This evening proposals were offered to the
+officers concerning our going through the Streights of Magellan; which at
+this time they seem to approve of.
+
+Friday the 31st, hard gales at N.W. with rain: This day was taken up along
+shore, an otter just killed, but by what animal we could not tell; it was
+bleeding fresh when taken up, and proved a dainty repast. Came ashore the
+ship's beams, with several things of great value.
+
+Saturday, August the 1st, hard gales at N.W. with rain and hail. This day
+put to an allowance of flour, one quarter of a pound a man per diem, and
+one pint of wine: Those who like brandy, to have half a pint in lieu of
+wine. We have now in a manner nothing to live on but what we pick'd up
+along the shore: The ship's company agree to go through the Streights of
+Magellan.
+
+Sunday the 2d, this morning found the store-tent robbed of brandy, filled
+up all the ullage casks, picked up about the rocks abundance of clams, a
+shell-fish not unlike our cockles: These fish are at present the support of
+our life. The people are now very quarrelsome and discontented.
+
+Monday the 3d, this day having fine weather (which is a prodigy in this
+place) launched the boat, and went about the rocks and islands on
+discovery. This day we also moved into our new house, it being a very
+commodious habitation, exceedingly well thatched; in this dwelling there
+are cabins for fourteen people, which are covered inside and out with broad
+cloth: This is a rich house, and, in some parts of the world, would
+purchase a pretty estate; there are several hundred yards of cloth about
+it, besides the curtains and linings, which are shalloon and camblet; in
+short, considering where we are, we cannot desire a better habitation. The
+people fall into disputes concerning the boat, where we are to proceed with
+her, when she is built and ready for going off. It is the opinion of the
+navigators, that going through the Streights of Magellan is the safest and
+only way to preserve life and liberty: The artists, who have worked the
+bearings and distance, are very pressing that it should be moved to the
+captain, purposing to have their reasons drawn up, and signed by all who
+are willing to go that way, and to be delivered to the captain for his
+opinion; upon this there was a paper drawn up, and as soon as the people
+heard it, they came flocking to sign first, crying all aloud for the
+Streights, seeming overjoyed, as if they were going to England directly,
+without any affliction or trouble, but there must be a great deal of
+hardships to be encountered before we arrive at our native country: This
+paper was signed by all the officers on the spot, except the captain,
+lieutenant, purser, and surgeon, and by all the seamen in general, except
+the captain's steward.
+
+Tuesday the 4th, at the time of serving at the storehouse, about twelve
+o'clock, I went to the captain, with the master, carpenter, and boatswain,
+and read to him the paper; he answered he would consider of it, and give
+his answer: Here follows a copy of the paper signed:--
+
+
+"We whose names are under-mentioned, do, upon mature consideration, as we
+have met with so happy a deliverance, think it the best, surest, and most
+safe way for the preservation of the body of people on the spot, to proceed
+through the Streights of Magellan for England. Dated at a desolate island
+on the coast of Patagonia, in the latitude of 47 deg. 00 min. south, and
+west longitude from the meridian of London 81 deg. 40 min. in the South
+Seas, this 2d day of August, 1741.
+
+John Bulkeley, gunner.
+John Cummins, carpenter.
+Thomas Clark, master.
+John King, boatswain.
+John Jones, master's mate.
+John Snow, ditto.
+Robt. Elliot, surgeon's mate.
+The Hon. John Byron, midshipman.
+Alexander Campbell, ditto.
+Isaac Morris, ditto.
+Thomas Maclean, cook.
+John Mooring, boatswain's mate.
+Henry Stevens, seaman.
+Benjamin Smith, seaman.
+John Montgomery, seaman.
+John Duck, seaman.
+John Hayes, seaman.
+James Butler, seaman.
+John Hart, seaman.
+James Roach, seaman.
+Job Barns, seaman.
+John Petman, seaman.
+William Callicutt, seaman.
+Richard Phipps, boatswain's mate.
+John Young, cooper.
+Richard Noble, quarter-master.
+William Rose, ditto.
+William Hervey, quarter-gunner.
+John Bosman, seaman.
+William Moore, ditto.
+Samuel Stook, ditto.
+Samuel Cooper, ditto.
+David Buckley, quarter-gunner.
+George Smith, seaman.
+Peter Deleroy, seaman.
+James M'Cawle, seaman.
+John George, seaman.
+John Shorclan, seaman.
+Richard East, seaman.
+William Lane, seaman.
+William Oram, seaman.
+Moses Lewis, seaman.
+Nicholas Griselham, seaman.
+
+"We whose names are under-mentioned, have had sufficient reasons, from the
+above-mentioned people, to consent to go this way. Signed by
+
+Captain Robert Pemberton, commander of his majesty's land forces.
+
+William Fielding, lieutenant
+Robert Ewers, lieutenant
+
+
+Wednesday the 5th, this day I went with the master, carpenter, master's
+mates, and midshipmen, to the captain, to acquaint him with what was done,
+and resolved on, and farther told him, it was a duty incumbent on us to
+preserve life before any other interest. He answered, Gentlemen, I desire
+time to consider of it, and will give you my final determination; on which
+we took our leave, and came away.
+
+Thursday the 6th, hard gales at W.S.W. and rainy weather. At noon we went
+with Mr Cummins to Captain P--mb--rt--n's tent, to have some farther
+conference for our future deliverance: While we were there, the captain
+sent his service to Captain C----p for a pair of pocket-pistols, his own
+property, which had been refused him on his request some time before. The
+servant was answered, by the captain's favourite and prime minister the
+steward, The captain is ill, and I can't let you have 'em. This answer not
+being satisfactory to Captain P--mb--rt--n, he sent a second time, and
+insisted on the delivery of his pistols, but was answered, they could not
+be come at before the captain was up; but a little time after it was judged
+proper to send Captain P--mb--rt--n his pistols. From Captain P--mb--rt--
+n's we went to the L----t's tent; while there, the L----t was sent to
+Captain C----p, about an hour after the carpenter and myself were sent for;
+when we came to him, he said, Gentlemen, I have maturely considered the
+contents of your paper, so far as it regards the preservation of the people
+on the spot: This paper has given me a great deal of uneasiness, insomuch
+that I have not closed my eyes till eight o'clock this morning, for
+thinking of it, but, I think, you have not weighed the thing rightly; do
+you know we are above one hundred and sixty leagues distant S.W. from the
+Streights of Magellan, with the wind against us? Then think on the distance
+to be run afterwards on the other side the Streights, with the wind always
+against us, and where no water is to be had. I answered, Sir, you say it is
+above one hundred and sixty leagues to the Streights, but let the
+navigators work it, and they will find it not above ninety leagues;
+yourself and lieutenant are undoubtedly navigators and judges, therefore
+will certainly find it as I say. Mr Cummins acquainted him, accordingly to
+his calculation, the vessel would carry a month's water, at a quart a man
+per diem; and, sir, do you consider, after running along shore to the
+northward this side the land, that we have one hundred leagues to run right
+out to sea to the island of Juan Ferdinandez, and five hundred chances to
+one if we meet the commodore there, or any of the squadron, nor do we know
+but the commodore may have shared the same fate with ourselves, or perhaps
+worse? The captain answered, It's a thousand to one if we see the commodore
+at Juan Ferdinandez; for, gentlemen, to let you into a secret, which I
+never discovered before, we shall meet him at Baldavia, his orders were
+from ---- to go there with the squadron, it being a place of little or no
+force. Mr Cummins answered, Sir, 'tis agreed, the commodore is at Baldavia,
+but we make it in our bargain, when we go from hence, that we will put
+ashore at every place when we want water, whenever the weather will permit,
+without any obstruction. The captain replied, There is no occasion for
+that, we will water at the islands, and take a vessel going along. Mr
+Cummins said, Sir, what shall we do with a vessel, without provisions, for
+ninety souls? The captain answered, We will take a vessel loaded with flour
+from Chili, there being a great many trading vessels that way, and then we
+will proceed through the Streights of Magellan. Mr Cummins said, How shall
+we take a vessel without guns, not having any but muskets, and our enemies
+know, as well as ourselves, that we have a squadron in these seas,
+therefore, undoubtedly are well armed, and keep a good look-out? The
+captain's answer to this was, What are our small arms for, but to board
+'em? The carpenter said, Sir, if a shot should take the boat under water,
+it would not be in my power to stop a leak of that kind, where the plank is
+so thin, that in some places it is not above three quarters of an inch
+thick. The captain then said, Gentlemen; I am agreeable to any thing, and
+willing to go any way, for the preservation of the people; but at the same
+time would have you consider of it, the wind being always against us on the
+other side the land, and we have above seven hundred leagues to the river
+Plate. I answered the captain, 'Tis not above five hundred and ninety
+leagues from hence to Cape St Antonio's; and, as I have before said, let
+the navigators work it, and reason take place, which is what we chiefly
+desire to be governed by: Another inducement we have to go the way proposed
+is, that we may be assured of water and provision. I allow that, says the
+captain, and we may save our own; but how do you know whether we may not
+meet enemies in the Streights? I replied to the captain, We can have no
+enemies to encounter there, but Indians in their canoes, and those we can
+master at our pleasure. The captain then seemed to countenance our opinion
+again, and said, When we come to St Julian's we shall be sure of salt in
+plenty for our provisions, without which our fowls will not keep above two
+or three days: Besides, when we come to the river Plate, we may meet with a
+prize, they not being acquainted with any English vessel like ours, with
+schooner's sails, by which means we may run up the river and take a larger
+vessel: If we fail here, we may go ashore, and get what cattle we please,
+but what business have we at the Rio Grand? We must go to the Rio Janeiro.
+I told him, we should be obliged to stop at every place along shore for
+supplies; at St Catharine's the governor will give us a certificate, so
+that we shall be known to be the people that were there in the squadron.
+The captain said, That's true, and I can get bills of credit in any part of
+Brazil; besides, the people may be separated, some in the Flota, and some
+in other ships, with less hands we may go to Barbadoes. Mr Cummins told
+him, we might venture to England with, twelve hands. Yes, you may, says the
+captain, with thirty. It is to be observed, during all this debate, the
+lieutenant spoke not a word. The carpenter asking him the reason of his
+silence in all the consultation, he answered, I'll give my opinion
+hereafter. The captain said, I knew nothing of his being acquainted with
+it, till Mr Bulkeley told me yesterday; but at the same time, Mr B----s, I
+expect, you will be the first that will sign the paper. I imagined the
+captain meant our paper, and immediately answered, with some warmth, As he
+had refused signing at first, and at the same time agreed to the proposal,
+that I had signed so close, that there was no room left for his name, and
+now it was too late for him to sign. The captain surprized me, by saying, I
+don't mean your paper; I told him, Any other, which should be contrary to
+ours, would never be signed by us. Mr Cummins said to the captain, Sir,
+'tis all owing to you that we are here; if you had consulted your officers,
+we might have avoided this misfortune, considering the condition the ship
+was in, she was not fit to come in with the land, all our men being sick,
+and not above three seamen in a watch; suppose the mast had gone by the
+board, as was every moment expected. The captain made answer, Gentlemen,
+you do not know my orders; there never were any so strict given to a
+commander before, and had I but two men living besides myself, I must, and
+was obliged to go to the first rendezvous, which was the island of Nostra
+Senhora di Socora: I was obliged to go there at all events. I made answer
+to this, Sir, if that is the case, it seems plain the thing was designed we
+should be here: But, sir, I am of opinion, notwithstanding the commodore
+had his orders from ---- to go with the squadron to Baldavia, that at the
+same time those orders were so far discretional, that if the squadron was
+disabled, care was to be taken not to endanger his majesty's ships. Yes,
+that (says the captain) was settled at St Julian's: Notwithstanding what
+has been said, gentlemen, I am agreeable to take any chance with you, and
+to go any way; but would have you consider of it, and defer your
+determination till all is ready to go off the spot. I then told the
+captain, You have known, sir, from the time you saw the proposal, that the
+people are uneasy, and the work is at a stand, and in this situation things
+will be until this affair is settled; therefore the sooner you resolve the
+better. The captain replied, I design to have a consultation among my
+officers: Have you any more objections to make? I answered, Yes, sir, one
+more; which is, when you go from hence, you are not to weigh, come to an
+anchor, or alter course, without consulting your officers. The captain
+said, Gentlemen, I was your commander till the ship parted, or as long as
+any stores or provisions were getting out of her. We told him, we had
+always taken care to obey his orders in the strictest manner, which he
+allowed us to have done; and he added, You were the officers that I placed
+my whole dependence in. We answered, Sir, we will support you with our
+lives, as long as you suffer reason to rule: And then we parted. After this
+consultation, the captain seldom came out of his tent, which occasioned.
+great disturbances among the people.
+
+Friday the 7th, the wind at W.N.W. with rain. This day the navigators
+worked the bearings and distance along shore, from one place to another, to
+know the true distance: Hereupon it was agreed to proceed through the
+Streights of Magellan, according to Sir John Narborough's directions, which
+give us great encouragement to go that way. Captain P----n drawed his men
+up, and dismissed 'em again. Great uneasiness among the people.
+
+Saturday the 8th, this morning went to the lieutenant, for him to acquaint
+the captain all his officers were ready to give sufficient reasons for
+going through the Streights of Magellan, desiring a consultation might be
+held in the afternoon. At three o'clock the captain sent for me and Mr
+Cummins; when we came, the master and boatswain were sent for, but they
+were gone in search of subsistence, as limpetts, muscles, &c. The captain
+said, Gentlemen, I don't doubt but you have considered upon the business
+you are come about; therefore I am determined to take my fate with you, or
+where the spirit of the people leads, and shall use my best endeavours for
+their preservation; but I am afraid of meeting contrary winds, for after
+the sun has crossed the Line we must expect to meet 'em. I made answer, By
+all accounts the wind hangs from N.W. to the S.W. above three parts of the
+year, which is in our favour. Mr Cummins told him, There was fresh water to
+be got as well on one coast as the other, and if Sir John Narborough's
+treatment was so ill in a profound peace, what must we expect in a time of
+open war? The captain said, I am afraid, very bad. Then Mr Cummins spoke in
+this manner to the captain: Sir, I always took you for an honourable
+gentleman, and I believe you to be such; on your honour, sir, I beg you
+will give the true sentiments of your mind, whether through the Streights
+is not the surest and safest way to preserve our lives, notwithstanding we
+have a thousand difficulties to encounter with any way? The captain
+answered, I really think going to the northward is the safest way; for
+suppose we should be drove off to sea, when on the other side the land,
+what is to be done then? I said, Sir, it is our business to keep the shore,
+to prevent all accidents that may happen that way. Then Lieutenant B----s
+made an objection, Suppose you have the wind blowing right in, and a
+tumbling sea, as to endanger the boat, what are we to do? I made answer,
+Sir, if you remember when we were riding at St Julian's, it blowed a very
+hard gale of wind right in from the sea; yet, even then, the sea did not
+run so high as to endanger a boat riding at anchor: Another instance I
+bring you from St Catherine's, when we had such hard gales that the Trial
+lost her masts, and the Pearl separated from the squadron; yet, at that
+time, there was no sea comparable to what we have met with this side the
+land. The lieutenant allowed this to be fact. Then the captain said, I will
+allow you to have water at Port Desire; but do you consider the lengthening
+your distance, by keeping along shore, and rounding every bay, and some of
+those bays are very deep? I told him, that undoubtedly there was water all
+along the coast, and that we had no business to round the bays, but to
+steer from one head-land to the other. Then Lieutenant B----s made a second
+objection, Suppose we are forced into a bay, and shoal water? I answered,
+We should always have a boat a-head, and our draught of water will not be
+above four or five feet at most; and if we should be so unfortunate as to
+lose our boat, we must keep the lead a-going. The l----t replied, That was
+true, and there could not be a great deal of difficulty in it. This was the
+only time the l----t ever spoke in public on the affair; he always allowed,
+when absent from the captain, that going through the Streights was the best
+way; but in the captain's presence he sided with him, and was for going to
+the northward.
+
+Sunday the 9th, at three this afternoon, I went with Mr Cummins, the
+master, and boatswain, as desired, to the captain, to give him our
+opinions, believing going through the Streights the surest way to preserve
+life; it was therefore agreed, That if the wind did not set in against us,
+at the sun's crossing the Line, that the captain would go that way. The
+captain asked every man's opinion, and found the people unanimous for the
+Streights of Magellan. To-day being fair weather, launched the yawl to go a
+fowling, shot several geese, ducks, shaggs, and sea-pies. Heeled the long-
+boat for planking.
+
+Monday the 10th, wind at N. and N.N.W. rainy weather. Eat slaugh and sea-
+weed fryed with tallow-candles, which we picked up along shore; this we
+reckon at present exceeding good eating, having nothing to live on but a
+quarter of a pound of flour a man per day, and what we can get off the
+rocks: For many days the weather has been so bad that we have not been able
+to stir abroad, though almost starved for want of food.
+
+Tuesday the 11th, hard gales at S.W. with heavy rains. This afternoon the
+people came in arms to acquaint us of the stores being robbed; they
+therefore wanted our consent for moving the stores to our tent; on which we
+desired they would desist from offering any violence: We told 'em of the
+ill consequence of mutiny, which, as we always abhorred, we took all
+imaginable care to prevent: The people, on our persuasions, instantly
+quitted their arms. The captain presently sent for me and Mr Cummins, to
+acquaint us with what had happened: He told us the purser, accidentally
+coming by, saw the prisoner Rowland Crussett, marine, crawling from the
+bushes, and from under the store tent, and found on him upwards of a day's
+flour for ninety souls, with one piece of beef under his coat, and three
+pieces more, which were concealed in the bushes, to carry off when an
+opportunity offered; and the sentry, Thomas Smith, his mess-mate, a marine,
+undoubtedly was privy to the robbery. The captain farther said, We have
+nothing to do with them; but I shall send to Captain P----n, to insist on a
+court-martial: I really think that for robbing the store-tent (which, in
+our present circumstances, is starving the whole body of people) the
+prisoners deserve death. This was not only the captain's opinion, but
+indeed the sentiments of every person present. After we parted from the
+captain, we were sent for by Captain P----n: He acquainted us, he would go
+as far as the martial law would allow him, and in conjunction with the sea-
+officers: I look (said he) on the l----t as nothing, and the c----n in the
+same light: As for you two, (meaning the gunner and carpenter) I confide
+in, and shall have regard to your opinions. When the articles of war were
+read, we found their crime did not touch life, but they were to suffer
+corporal punishment. Whilst Mr Cummins was laying open the nature of their
+guilt, and the ill consequence of lenity in the circumstances we were in, I
+proposed a way next to death, which was, if judged proper by Captain P----n
+and Captain C----p, to carry 'em off to an island where the ship parted,
+there being muscles, limpetts, and clams in abundance, and no want of
+water, and there to be left till we should be ready for sailing; and, to
+strike a terror in all for the future, that if any man should be guilty of
+the like offence, without any respect of person, he should share the same
+fate. This proposal was approved of by both the captains. At night
+Lieutenant B----n surprised us with a new kind of proposal we little dreamt
+of, which was, to have a proper place of devotion to perform divine service
+in every sabbath-day: For this sacred office, our tent was judged the most
+commodious place. The duty of public prayer had been entirely neglected on
+board, though every seaman pays fourpence per month towards the support of
+a minister; yet devotion, in so solemn a manner, is so rarely performed,
+that I know but one instance of it during the many years I have belonged to
+the navy. We believe religion to have the least share in this proposal of
+the lieutenant. If our tent should be turned into a house of prayer, and
+this project takes, we may, perhaps, in the midst of our devotion, be
+surprised, and our arms taken, from us, in order to frustrate our designs,
+and prevent our return to England through the Streights of Magellan, or any
+other way.
+
+Wednesday the 12th, hard gales from S.W. to W. with heavy showers of hail
+and rain. Served out provisions today, a piece of beef for four men; some
+time past we have had but a quarter of a pound of flour per man per diem,
+and three pieces of beef: We live chiefly on muscles, limpitts, and clams,
+with saragraza and thromba; one is a green broad weed, common on the rocks
+in England; the other is a round sea-weed, so large, that a man can scarce
+grasp it; it grows in the sea, with broad leaves; this last we boil, the
+saragraza we fry in tallow; in this manner we support life: Even these
+shell-fish and weeds we get with great difficulty; for the wind, the rain,
+and coldness of the climate in this season, are so extremely severe, that a
+man will pause some time whether he shall stay in his tent and starve, or
+go out in quest of food.
+
+Friday the 14th, very hard gales at W. and N.W., with showers of rain and
+hail, which beat with such violence against a man's face, that he can
+hardly withstand it; however, one of our mess-mates to-day shot three gulls
+and a hawk, which gave us a very elegant repast. This day was held a court-
+martial on the sentry who is believed confederate with the marine that
+robbed the store-tent: sentence was passed on them to receive six hundred
+lashes each: Captain C----p not thinking the punishment adequate to the
+crime, cut 'em short of their allowance, so that they have now but half the
+provisions they had before: The day following the offenders received two
+hundred lashes each, as part of their punishment. We hauled the long-boat
+higher up, for fear the sea should wash the blocks from under her. We have
+found a new way of managing the slaugh; we fry it in thin batter with
+tallow, and use it as bread.
+
+Sunday the 16th, fresh gales of wind at S.W. with heavy showers of hail:
+The people generally complain of a malady in their eyes; they are in great
+pain, and can scarce see to walk about. The last tide flowed nine feet
+perpendicular; to-day we picked up shell-fish in abundance, with, pieces of
+beef and pork. The prisoners received two hundred lashes more.
+
+Tuesday the 18th, this day the carpenter, who has all along been
+indefatigable in working about the long-boat, saw one of the seamen cutting
+up an anchor-stock for firewood, which had been designed for a particular
+use for the long-boat; at sight of the fellow's folly he could not contain
+himself: This affair, added to the little concern and intolerable
+indifference that appeared in the generality of the people, for some time
+impaired his understanding, and made him delirious; all possible methods
+are used to restore him, as he is the only man, who, through the assistance
+of Providence, can compleat the means of our deliverance.
+
+Wednesday the 19th, the carpenter was so much recovered, that he went to
+work as usual; at night the lieutenant acquainted us, that the captain
+desired to speak with the carpenter and me to-morrow at noon, to consult
+what should be done with the two prisoners, having received but four
+hundred lashes out of the six, to which they were sentenced by a court-
+martial, the other two hundred being remitted by their own officers.
+
+Thursday the 20th, we waited on the captain, who acquainted us with what
+the lieutenant had mentioned last night relating to the prisoners: We told
+him the people were very uneasy about this mitigation of the punishment
+indicted on them by a court-martial; therefore it was agreed they should
+provide for themselves as well as they could, but to have no sort of
+provisions out of the store-tent for the future.
+
+Saturday, the 22d, we begun upon several contrivances to get provisions,
+such as building punts, cask-boats, leather-boats, and the like.
+
+On Sunday the 23d, the store-tent was again robbed, and, on examination,
+was found a deficiency of twelve days brandy for ninety men: The
+lieutenant, myself, and carpenter, went to the captain to consult some way
+which might effectually prevent those villainous practices for the future:
+The captain desired us to make a nice inquiry into this robbery, being
+determined to inflict the severest punishment on the offenders; though it
+would give him the greatest concern if any innocent person should suffer.
+This day we confined one of the sentinels for being drunk on his post; the
+day following the boatswain gave us information of the persons who had
+robbed the tent; they were two sentinels, Smith and Butler; those very
+persons were the first who insisted that the seamen, as well as themselves,
+should watch the store-tent; their own officers, as yet, have brought them
+to no examination: We have also information that the purser holds frequent
+conversation with the rebels, contrary to all the laws of the navy,
+supplying them with liquors in abundance, to the great distress of his
+majesty's faithful subjects, who have but half a pint per day to subsist
+on. There are now great disturbances among the people concerning going to
+the northward; they believe Captain C----p never intended to return to
+England by his proposing this way, in opposition to the opinion of all the
+navigators, who have given reasons for going through the Streights of
+Magellan. There is a sort of a party rage among the people, fomented by a
+kind of bribery that has more influence on the seamen than money; there are
+some daily bought off by rum, and other strong liquors. Unless a stop is
+put to these proceedings, we shall never go off the spot.
+
+Tuesday the 25th, this day felt four great earthquakes, three of which were
+very terrible; notwithstanding the violent shocks and tremblings of the
+earth, we find no ground shifted. Hard gales of wind at north, with heavy
+showers of rain.
+
+Thursday the 27th, the disturbances increase among the people; we plainly
+see there is a party raised to go to the northward; we went to the
+lieutenant, and consulted with him what was to be done in the present
+exigence; myself being reckoned the projector of the scheme for going
+through the Streights, was threatened to be shot by Noble the quarter-
+master: After having some discourse with the lieutenant, he told me, If I
+would draw up a paper for the captain to sign, in order to satisfy the
+people, that he would go to the southward, and every officer to have a copy
+of it, to justify himself in England, it would be as proper a method as we
+could take. The paper was immediately drawn up in these words, viz.
+
+
+"Whereas upon a general consultation, it has been agreed to go from this
+place through the Streights of Magellan, for the coast of Brazil, in our
+way for England: We do, notwithstanding, find the people separating into
+parties, which must consequently end in the destruction of the whole body;
+and as also there have been great robberies committed on the stores, and
+every thing is now at a stand, therefore, to prevent all future frauds and
+animosities, we are unanimously agreed to proceed as above-mentioned."
+
+
+This paper was delivered to the lieutenant, who said that he was sure the
+captain would sign it, but in case of refusal he should be confined for
+shooting Mr Cozens, and he would take the command on himself: And, to
+prevent further disturbances, the purser, as he much conversed with the
+rebels, it is agreed by the body of officers to send him off the island,
+for acting so contrary to his duty, in contempt of the articles of war, the
+laws of his country, and the known rules of the navy. It was likewise
+agreed, that any person who engaged himself in raising parties, should be
+disarmed. By this day's proceedings, we thought the lieutenant a gentleman
+of resolution, but the words and actions of people do not always concur.
+
+Friday the 28th, to-day the officers and people all appeared in arms. The
+master, boatswain, gunner, and carpenter, with Mr J----s, mate, and Mr
+C----ll, midshipman, went into the captain's tent, the lieutenant being
+with him. As soon as the officers were seated, a consultation was held
+concerning Smith and Butler robbing the store-tent, they were sentenced to
+be transported to the main, or some island. As soon as this affair was
+over, we talk'd to the captain of the uneasiness among the people, that
+there had been a long time a visible inquietude among 'em, and that we
+could not help seeing there were schemes form'd to obstruct our design of
+going to the southward. The captain answer'd, Gentlemen, it is time enough
+to think of this when we are ready to go off; have not I told you before
+that I do not care which way I go, southward or northward? I will take my
+fate with you. Everybody now expected the lieutenant to reply, especially
+after the zeal he express'd himself with the day before; but he sat
+speechless, without any regard to the welfare of the people, or to his own
+proposals. Finding he did not move in the affair, I took out the paper
+which was agreed to by the lieutenant and the rest of the officers, and
+read it to the captain, and ask'd him to sign it, which he strenuously
+oppos'd, and seem'd very much enrag'd that it should be propos'd to him.
+Upon this we dropt the matter, and began to discourse concerning the
+provisions: We thought it necessary that ten weeks subsistence should be
+secur'd to carry with us, and that the liquor should be buried under
+ground, but he gave us no answer. Finding no relief here, we went to
+Captain P----n's tent to consult with him what we should do in the present
+exigence. On our coming out from the captain we saw a flag hoisted on
+Captain P----n's tent, the captain himself seated in a chair, surrounded by
+the people. On seeing this, all the officers present at the consultation,
+except the lieutenant, went over to Captain P----n. Here it was agreed, in
+case the captain persisted to refuse signing the paper, to take the command
+from him, and to give it the lieutenant, according to the lieutenant's own
+proposal. At the same time Caplain P----n told the people he would stand by
+'em with his life, in going through the Streights of Magellan, the way
+propos'd in the paper. The people gave three cheers, crying aloud for
+England. The captain hearing the noise, got out of bed to his tent door,
+and call'd the people, enquiring what they wanted, then sent for all the
+officers: He was then told since he refused signing the paper, and had no
+regard to the safety of our provisions, the people unanimously agreed to
+take the command from him, and transfer it to the lieutenant. Hearing this,
+with an exalted voice, Captain C----p says, Who is he that will take the
+command from me? addressing himself to the lieutenant, Is it you, sir? The
+lieutenant reply'd, No, sir. The terror of the captain's aspect intimidated
+the lieutenant to that degree, that he look'd like a ghost. We left him
+with the captain, and return'd to Captain P----n's tent, to acquaint him of
+the lieutenant's refusing the command. We had not been long here before
+Captain C----p sent for us. I was the first person call'd for; at my
+entering his tent, I saw him seated on a chest, with a cock'd pistol on his
+right thigh; observing this, I desir'd Mr J----s, who was the mate he
+always rely'd on for navigation, to tell the captain I did not think proper
+to come before a cock'd pistol: Notwithstanding I was arm'd I drew back,
+altho' I had my pistol-cock'd, and there were several men near me arm'd
+with muskets. The captain's personal bravery no man doubted of, his courage
+was excessive, and made him rash and desperate; his shooting Mr Cozens was
+a fatal proof of it, he was grown more desperate by this unhappy action,
+and was observ'd since seldom to behave himself with any composure of mind.
+It is a piece of human prudence to retreat from a man in a phrenzy, because
+he who does not value his own life, has another man's in his power. I had
+no desire of falling by the hand of Captain C----p, and should be greatly
+disturb'd to be compelled, for my own preservation, to discharge a pistol
+at a gentleman against whom I never had any spleen, and who was my
+commander. When Mr J----s acquainted him with what I desired him, the
+captain threw his pistol aside, and came out of his tent; he told the
+people he would go with them to the southward; he desired to know their
+grievances, and he would redress them: They all call'd out for their sea-
+store of provisions to be secur'd, and the rest equally divided. Here the
+captain shew'd all the conduct and courage imaginable; he was a single man
+against a multitude, all of 'em dissatisfy'd with him, and all of 'em in
+arms: He told 'em the ill consequence of sharing the provisions, that it
+was living to-day and starving to-morrow; but the people were not to be
+satisfy'd, the officers had now no authority over 'em, and they were some
+time deaf to their persuasions; nay, it was with difficulty that they could
+dissuade 'em from pulling down the store-tent, and taking away the
+provisions by force; they remov'd the provisions out of the store-tent,
+then fell to digging a hole to bury the brandy; the sea-store to be
+secur'd, the remainder to be immediately shar'd. Had this been comply'd
+with, the consequences might have been very terrible; however, to pacify
+'em in some shape, it was agreed, that every man should have a pint of
+brandy per day, which, by calculation, would last 'em three weeks. On this
+they seem'd very easy, and went to their respective tents. The captain told
+his officers that he would act nothing contrary to what was agreed on for
+the welfare and safety of the community. Finding the captain in a temper of
+mind to hearken to reason, I said to him, sir, I think it my duty to inform
+you that I am not the person whom you imagine to be the principal in this
+affair. The captain answer'd, how can I think otherwise? I reply'd, Sir,
+the paper I read to you was your lieutenant's projection: There sits the
+gentleman, let him disown it if he can. The captain turning himself to the
+lieutenant, says, Mr Bulkeley has honestly clear'd himself. We then drank a
+glass of wine, and took our leaves. At night the captain sent for Mr
+Cummins and me to sup with him; we were the only officers present with him:
+When I was seated, I said, Sir, I have my character at stake, from drawing
+back from your cock'd pistol; had I advanc'd, one of us must have dropt.
+The captain answer'd, Bulkeley, I do assure you the pistol was not design'd
+for you, but for another; for I knew the whole before. We then talk'd of
+indifferent things, and spent the evening in a very affable manner.
+
+Saturday the 29th, came here five Indian canoes, loaden with muscles; the
+men, women, and children, were about fifty: These Indians had never been
+with us before, they are not so generous and good-natur'd as our friends I
+have already mentioned; they were so mercenary, that they would not part
+with a single muscle without something in exchange; their stay was but
+short with us, for the next morning they launch'd their canoes, and went
+off.
+
+Tuesday, September the 1st, the carpenter was shot in the thigh with
+several large pewter slugs by the captain's cook, but he being at a great
+distance, the slugs did not enter his skin: Whether this was design'd, or
+accidental, we don't know; however, we thought it proper to disarm him.
+
+Wednesday the 2d, wind at N. and N. by W. with rain. This day we were
+inform'd that three of the deserters, viz. James Mitchel, carpenter's mate,
+Joseph King and Owen Thomson, seamen, were gone over to the main in a punt
+of their own building; the others were here yesterday, and I believe would
+be gladly received again, but am of opinion there are few voices in their
+favour.
+
+Friday the 4th, some disorders among the people about watching the
+provisions, some taking all opportunities to rob the stores. Our living now
+is very hard, shell-fish are very scarce, and difficult to be had; the sea-
+weeds are our greatest support; we have found a sort of sea-weed which we
+call dulse, it is a narrow weed, growing on rocks in the sea, which, when
+boil'd about two hours, thickens the water like flour; this we esteem a
+good and wholsome food.
+
+Sunday the 6th, last night the store-tent was robbed of brandy and flour:
+The people on hearing this were greatly enrag'd, and insisted on searching
+the marines tents; on search they found four bottles of brandy, and four
+small parcels of flour. The captain sent for the lieutenant, master gunner,
+carpenter, and surgeon, with lieutenants H----n, E----s, and F----g, of the
+army, Captain Pemberton was also sent for, but was so ill that he could not
+be present, but desir'd all might pass according to the judgment of the
+above-mention'd officers. A consultation was held, five of the accused
+marines did not appear, dreading the punishment due to their crime, they
+march'd off to the deserters: Four more, who staid to be try'd, receiv'd
+sentence, on the first opportunity, to carry them off to the main, and
+there to shift for themselves with the former deserters. The seamen
+insisted on a pint of brandy each man per diem, which was agreed on. The
+provisions being found were put into the store.
+
+Monday the 7th, I was invited to a dog-feast at Mr J----s's tent: There
+were present at this entertainment, the lieutenant, the Honourable John
+Byron, Mr Cummins, Mr Campbell, Mr Young, Lieutenants Ewers and Fielding,
+and Dr Oakley of the army. It was exceeding good eating, we thought no
+English mutton preferable to it.
+
+Tuesday the 8th, in the afternoon, William Harvey, quarter gunner, came to
+our tent with a paper sign'd by seven people; the contents as follows, viz.
+
+
+"These are to acquaint you, the gentlemen, officers, and seamen of the ship
+Wager, that, for the easement of the boat now building, we do agree to go
+in the yawl, after she is fitted up, with allowing us our share of
+provisions, and other conveniences, to go in her to the southward, through
+the Streights of Magellan, for the coast of Brazil.
+
+David Buckley, quarter gunner.
+William Harvey, ditto.
+Rich. Noble, quarter-master.
+William Moor, captain's cook.
+William Rose, quarter-master.
+John Hayes, seaman.
+John Bosman, ditto."
+
+
+The next day, the above-mention'd added one more to their number, viz.
+Peter Plastow, captain's steward: he came to acquaint us he was willing to
+go with them, and hoped we would give our consent; we told him we had
+nothing to do with it, therefore he must apply to the captain.
+
+Thursday the 10th, hard gales at W.N.W., with rain and hail. The captain
+sent for the lieutenant, master, myself, the carpenter, and boatswain; when
+we were all met, the captain ask'd us if Plastow had mention'd any thing to
+us about going off in the yawl. We told him he had. Plastow being sent for,
+the captain said, Peter, I hear you are for going in the boat? He answer'd,
+Yes, sir, I will take my chance, for I want to get to England. The captain
+bade him be gone for a villain, and said no more. This Plastow was a mighty
+favourite with the captain, and had often been admitted to his
+conversation: He above all men ought to have stood steadfast to him,
+because the captain regarded him above the whole body of people, and hath
+been heard to say as much. It was this day agreed that the sentence put off
+on the 6th should be executed the first opportunity, without any delay, and
+that no boat should go off from hence before all was ready, believing some
+have a design to go to the northward.
+
+Friday the 11th, wind at N.N.W. The people very uneasy, scarce any work
+done for this week past; every thing at a stand, we have now among us no
+command, order, or discipline, add to our uneasiness the uncomfortableness
+of the climate; we have been inhabitants of this island sixteen weeks, and
+have not seen ten fair days; the murmurings of the people, the scarcity of
+provision, and the severity of the weather, would really make a man weary
+of life.
+
+Monday the 14th, last night very hard gales at N.W. and W.N.W., with large
+showers of hail, with thunder. The wind to-day is much abated. As to the
+article of provisions, nothing comes amiss, we eat dogs, rats, and, in
+short, every thing we can come at.
+
+Friday the 18th, Dennis O'Lary, and John Redwood, seamen, with six marines,
+were put off to the main, according to their sentence, it being a fine
+summer's day. This day the lieutenant bringing a pair of pistols to the
+carpenter, and complaining they were in bad order, did not imagine they
+were loaded, snapping the first it miss'd fire, the second went off, but
+providentially did no harm, tho' the lieutenant had then a crowd of people
+about him.
+
+Sunday the 20th, little wind, and clear weather. Launch'd the barge, and
+went off to the wreck; we took up four casks of beef, with a cask of pease,
+which was stay'd, we serv'd out to each man five pieces of beef, and pease
+to suck as would have 'em, but there were none to take 'em, having now
+plenty of meat, our stomachs are become nice and dainty.
+
+Wednesday, the 23d, the people went to the captain with a two gallon cagg,
+and ask'd it full of wine. The captain refus'd 'em, but apprehending that
+they would make no ceremony of filling it without leave, and carrying it
+off by force, he thought proper to order it to be fill'd. They brought it
+to the long-boat, and drank it in her hold. Stept the long-boat's mast
+forward. The people very much disorder'd in liquor, and very quarrelsome.
+
+Thursday the 24th, I was sent on a week's cruize in the barge, the officers
+with me were Mr Jones, the mate, and the Honourable Mr B----n, midshipman,
+and Mr Harvey the purser, who was a good draughtsman; we went in order to
+discover the coast to the southward, for the safety of the long-boat; we
+were informed on our return, that the people in our absence went to the
+captain and got two gallons of wine which they mixed with their half pints
+of brandy, they got all drunk and mad, but no great mischief ensued. Six
+Indian canoes likewise came in our absence loaden with men, women, and
+children, and brought with them clams out of the shells strung on lines.
+The Indian women dived for muscles, and brought them ashore in abundance,
+the men went to the fresh water river, and caught several fish like our
+English mullets. The people bought dogs of the Indians, which they kill'd
+and eat, esteeming the flesh very good food. The next day the Indians went
+out and caught a vast quantity of fish out of a pond, where they sent their
+dogs to hunt; the dogs dived, and drove the fish ashore in great numbers to
+one part of the pond, as if they had been drawn in a seyne; the Indians
+sold the fish to the people. This method of catching fish, is, I believe,
+unknown any where else, and was very surprising; and, what is also very
+strange, after the Indians went away, we hauled the seyne over the pond,
+and could never get a fish.
+
+Monday the 28th, returned with the barge; the first evening we were out we
+had a good harbour for the barge, which we put into; the first animal we
+saw was a fine large bitch big with puppies, we kill'd her, we then roasted
+one side and boiled the other, were exceedingly well pleased with our fare,
+supped heartily, and slept well. The next morning we got up at day-break,
+and proceeded on our cruize, finding all along the coast to be very
+dangerous; at evening put into a place of very good shelter for the barge:
+Here we found the Indians had been very lately, the shore being covered
+with the offals of seal; in an hour's time we killed ten wild fawn, we
+roasted three geese and two ducks, the rest we put into a sea pye, so that
+we fared most elegantly; got up at day-light next morning, but seeing the
+weather hazy and dirty, thought it not proper to put out with the barge,
+fearing we should not get a harbour before night; we took a walk five miles
+in the country cross the land to the southward, but could not see any
+shelter for the boat, being then twelve leagues from the place we came
+from, so we returned back in the evening, and got into a fine sandy bay; I
+think it as good a harbour for shipping as any I ever saw: Coming into this
+bay, saw the southmost land, which we had seen before, bearing about S.S.W.
+right over an inlet of land, above two miles. After landing, lived as we
+did last night; in the morning we walked over, where we found a deep bay,
+it being eighteen leagues deep, and twelve leagues broad; here we had a
+very good prospect of the coast; we found here the green pease that Sir
+John Narborough mentions in his book.
+
+Saturday, the 3d of October, after our return from the cruize, the
+lieutenant, the master, myself, the boatswain, and Mr J----s the mate, went
+to the captain, to acquaint him how forward the boat was, and to consult
+some measures to be observ'd on board the boat, to prevent mutiny; he
+desir'd a day or two to consider of it.
+
+On Monday, the 5th, the carpenter sent his case bottle, as usual, to the
+captain, to be filled with wine, but it was sent back empty, with this
+answer, I will give him none. This sudden change of the captain's behaviour
+to the carpenter, proceeded from some words which the latter dropt, and
+were carried to the captain; the words the carpenter spoke were to this
+purport, that he was not to be led by favour or affection, nor to be
+biassed by a bottle of brandy. To-day we heeled the long-boat, and caulked
+the star-board side, paid her bottom with wax, tallow, and soap that came
+out of the ship.
+
+Tuesday the 6th, hard gales at N.W. and N., with rain: This morning the
+lieutenant acquainted us of the captain's resolution, which was to be
+captain as before, and to be governed by the rules of the navy, and to
+stand or fall by them; it was objected in the present situation, the rules
+of the navy are not sufficient to direct us, several rules being requisite
+in our circumstances which are not mention'd there, that the whole body of
+officers and people are determin'd not to be govern'd by those rules at
+present. This objection was started, not from a disrespect to those rules,
+but we imagin'd, if Captain C----p was restor'd to the absolute command he
+had before the loss of the Wager, that he would proceed again on the same
+principles, never on any exigency consult his officers, but act
+arbitrarily, according to his humour and confidence of superior knowledge;
+while he acts with reason, we will support his command with our lives, but
+some restriction is necessary for our own preservation. We think him a
+gentleman worthy to have a limited command, but too dangerous a person to
+be trusted with an absolute one. This afternoon the people insisted to be
+serv'd brandy out of the casks that were buried under ground, accordingly
+they were serv'd half a pint each man. Got the long-boat upright.
+
+Thursday the 18th, this day the master went to the captain concerning ten
+half barrels of powder more than can be carried off, which will make good
+water casks for the boats; the captain told him not to start the powder, or
+destroy any thing, without his orders, and said, he must have time, to
+consider of it. In the afternoon Captain P--m-b--rt--n, of the land forces,
+came on the beach and desired the assistance of the seamen to take Captain
+C----p a prisoner, for the death of Mr Cozens, the midshipman, telling us,
+he should be call'd to an account, if he did not. This evening the
+carpenter went up to the hill-tent, so called from its situation; the
+people were shooting balls at marks, some of 'em were firing in vollies,
+without shot or sluggs; one of the men on the beach fir'd at the tent while
+the carpenter was in it, who was standing with a book in his hand; there
+was a piece of beef hung close at his cheek, the ball went through the tent
+and the beef, but the carpenter receiv'd no damage. To-day I overhaul'd the
+powder, and told the lieutenant that I had twenty-three half barrels in
+store, and that we could not carry off in the vessel above six half
+barrels, therefore proposed to start the overplus into the sea, and make
+water casks of the half barrels, they being very proper for that purpose. I
+desired him to acquaint the captain with my intention; that since he had no
+regard for the publick good, or any thing that tended to promoting it, the
+carpenter and I had determin'd never to go near him again. The lieutenant
+declin'd going, fearing the captain would murther him, but he sent the
+master to him, to let him know the necessity of starting the powder; the
+captain's answer to the master was, I desire you will not destroy any one
+thing without my orders. We now are convinc'd the captain hath no intention
+of going to the southward, notwithstanding he had lately given his word and
+honour that he would; therefore Captain P--mb--r-t--n, in order to put an
+end to all future obstructions, demanded our assistance to make him a
+prisoner for the shooting Mr Cozens, intending to carry him as such to
+England; at the same time to confine Lieutenant H----n with him, which was
+readily agreed to by the whole body. It was reckon'd dangerous to suffer
+the captain any longer to enjoy liberty, therefore the lieutenant, gunner,
+carpenter, and Mr J----s the mate, resolv'd next morning to surprize him in
+his bed.
+
+Friday the 9th, this morning went in a body and surpriz'd the captain in
+bed, disarm'd him, and took every thing out of his tent. The captain said
+to the seamen, What are you about? where are my officers? at which the
+master, gunner, carpenter, and boatswain, went in. The captain said,
+Gentlemen, do you know what you have done, or are about? He was answer'd,
+Yes, sir; our assistance was demanded by Captain P----n, to secure you as a
+prisoner for the death of Mr Cozens; and as we are subjects of Great
+Britain, we are oblig'd to take you as such to England. The captain said,
+Gentlemen, Captain P----n has nothing to do with me, I am your commander
+still, I will shew you my instructions, which he did to the people, on this
+we came out. He then call'd his officers a second time, and said, What is
+this for? He was answer'd as before, that assistance was demanded by
+Captain P----n to take him prisoner for the death of Mr Cozens. He still
+insisted, Captain P----n has no business with me, I could not think you
+would serve me so. It was told him, Sir, it is your own fault, you have
+given yourself no manner of concern for the publick good, on our going from
+hence, but have acted quite the reverse, or else been so careless and
+indifferent about it, as if we had no commander, and if other persons had
+given themselves no more trouble and concern than you have, we should not
+be ready to go from hence as long as provisions lasted. The captain said,
+Very well, gentlemen, you have caught me napping; I do not see any of you
+in liquor, you are a parcel of brave fellows, but my officers are
+scoundrels: Then turning himself to me, he said, Gunner, where's my
+lieutenant? did not he head you? I told him, No, sir, but was here to see
+it executed, and is here now. One of you, says the captain, call Mr B----s.
+When Mr B----s came, he said, What is all this for, sir? Sir, it is Captain
+P----n's order. Captain P----n hath no business with me, and you will
+answer for it hereafter, if I do not live to see England, I hope some of my
+friends will. On this the lieutenant left him. The captain then address'd
+himself to the seamen, saying, My lads, I do not blame you, but it is the
+villainy of my officers, which they will answer for hereafter. He then
+call'd Mr B----s again, and said, Well, sir, what do you design to do by
+me? The lieutenant answer'd, Sir, your officers have design'd the purser's
+tent for you. Hum! I should be obliged to the gentlemen, if they would let
+me stay in my own tent. The lieutenant came to acquaint the officers of the
+captain's request, but they judg'd it inconvenient, as Mr H----n's tent
+join'd the purser's, one guard might serve 'em both; accordingly all his
+things were mov'd to the purser's tent: As he was coming along, he said,
+Gentlemen, you must excuse my not pulling my hat off, my hands are
+confin'd. Well, Captain B----s you will be call'd to an account for this
+hereafter. The boatswain, after the captain's confinement, most barbarously
+insulted him, reproaching him with striking him, saying, Then it was your
+time, but now, G--d d--n you, it is mine; The captain made no reply but
+this, You are a scoundrel for using a gentleman ill when he is a prisoner.
+When the captain was a prisoner, he declar'd, he never intended to go to
+the southward, having more honour than to turn his back on his enemies; and
+farther, he said, Gentlemen, I do not want to go off in any of your craft,
+for I never design'd to go for England, and would rather cause to be shot
+by you; there is not a single man on the beach dare engage me, but this is
+what I fear'd.
+
+It is very odd, that Captain C----p should now declare be never intended to
+go to the southward, when he publickly gave his word and honour he would go
+that way, or any way where the spirit of the people led: But he afterwards
+told his officers, he knew he had a severe trial to go through, if ever he
+came to England; and as for those who liv'd to return to their country, the
+only favour he requested from them, was to declare the truth, without
+favour or prejudice, and this we promis'd faithfully to do: His words, in
+this respect, were as much regarded by us as the words of a dying man, and
+have been most punctually observ'd.
+
+Saturday the 10th, little wind at N. and N.W. Getting all ready for going
+off this afternoon, the captain sent for the lieutenant and me, desiring us
+both to go to Captain P----n, to know what he intended to do with him. We
+accordingly came, and both promised to go directly, and bring him his
+answer. When we came out, went to the lieutenant's tent; from thence I
+expected, and made no doubt but he would go to Captain P----n's: But when I
+ask'd him he refused, which very much surprised me. I thought it very
+ungenerous to trifle with Captain C----p, or any gentleman in his unhappy
+situation; therefore went alone to Captain Pemberton. When I delivered him
+Captain C----p's message the answer was, I design, and must carry him
+prisoner to England. I return'd, and acquainted Captain C----p with Captain
+P----n's answer: He ask'd me then if the lieutenant was with me. I told
+him, no; and I believe did not design it. He said, Mr Bulkeley, I am very
+much obliged to you, and could not think the lieutenant would use me thus.
+In the evening the lieutenant and I were sent for again: The captain said
+to the lieutenant, Sir, have you been with Captain P----n? He answer'd, No,
+sir. I thought, sir, you promised me you would: However, I have his answer
+from Mr Bulkeley; I am to be carried a prisoner to England. Gentlemen, I
+shall never live to see England, but die by inches in the voyage; and it is
+surprising to me to think what you can expect by going to the southward,
+where there are ten thousand difficulties to be encounter'd with: I am
+sorry so many brave fellows should be led to go where they are not
+acquainted, when, by going to the northward, there is the island of Chili,
+not above ninety leagues, where we need not fear taking prizes, and may
+have a chance to see the commodore. I made answer, Sir, you have said that
+we shall be call'd to an account for this in England: I must tell you, for
+my part, had I been guilty of any crime, and was sure of being hang'd for
+it in England, I would make it my choice to go there, sooner than to the
+northward: Have not you given your word and honour to go to the southward?
+It is true there is a chance in going to the northward, by delivering us
+from this unhappy situation of life to a worse, viz. a Spanish prison. The
+captain said no more but this, Gentlemen, I wish you well and safe to
+England.
+
+Sunday the 11th, this morning the captain sent for me, and told me he had
+rather be shot than carried off a prisoner, and that he would not go off
+with us; therefore desired me to ask the people to suffer him to remain on
+the island: The people readily agreed to his request, and also consented to
+leave him all things needful for his support, as much as could be spared.
+Lieutenant H----n and the surgeon chose to stay with him. We offer'd him
+also the barge and yawl, if he could procure men to go with him. The
+question was proposed before the whole body, but they all cry'd aloud for
+England, and let him stay and be d----'d; does he want to carry us to a
+prison? There is not a man will go. The captain being deprived of his
+command in the manner above mentioned, and for the reasons already given,
+it was resolved to draw some articles to be sign'd for the good of the
+community, and to give the lieutenant a limited command. The paper was
+drawn up in this manner:--
+
+
+"Whereas Captain David C----p, our commander in his majesty's ship the
+Wager, never consulted any of his officers for the safety and preservation
+of the said ship, and his majesty's subjects thereto belonging, but several
+times, since the unhappy loss of the said ship, he has been solicited in
+the most dutiful manner, promising him at the same time to support his
+command with our lives, desiring no more than to go off heart in hand from
+this place to the southward, which he gave his word and honour to do; and
+being almost ready for sailing, did apply to him some few days past, to
+draw up some proper articles, in order to suppress mutiny, and other
+material things, which were thought necessary to be agreed to before we
+went off; but he, in the most scornful manner, hath rejected every thing
+proposed for the public good, and as he is now a prisoner, and the command
+given to the lieutenant, upon his approbation of the following articles:
+
+"First, As we have no conveniency for dressing provisions, on board the
+vessel, for a third part of the number to be carried off the spot,
+therefore this day served out to every man and boy twelve days' provision,
+for them to dress before we go off; and also it is agreed, that whoever is
+guilty of defrauding another of any part of his allowance, on sufficient
+proof thereof, the person found guilty (without any respect of person)
+shall be put on shore at the first convenient place, and left there.
+
+"Secondly, In regard to the boats going off with us, we think proper to
+allow one week's provision for each man appointed to go in them, in order
+to prevent separation from each other, which would be of the worst
+consequence of any thing that can happen to us: To prevent which, we do
+agree, that when under way they shall not separate, but always keep within
+musket-shot, and on no pretence or excuse whatsoever go beyond that reach.
+The officer, or any other person, that shall attempt a separation, or
+exceed the above-mention'd bounds, shall, on proof, be put on shore, and
+left behind.
+
+"Thirdly, It is agreed, in order to suppress mutiny, and prevent broils and
+quarrels on board the vessel, that no man shall threaten the life of
+another, or offer violence in any shape, the offender, without any respect
+of station or quality, being found guilty, shall be put on shore, and left
+behind.
+
+"Fourthly, We do agree, whatever fowl, fish, or necessaries of life, we
+shall happen to meet with on our passage, the same shall be divided among
+the whole, and if Captain David C----p shall, be put on board a prisoner,
+it shall not be in the lieutenant's power to release him.
+
+"The aforesaid articles were agreed to, and sign'd by the undermention'd,
+
+Robert Beans, lieutenant
+Thomas Clark, master
+John King, boatswain
+John Bulkeley, gunner
+John Cummins, carpenter
+Thomas Harvey, purser
+Robert Elliot, surgeon's mate
+John Jones, master's mate
+John Snow, ditto
+The Hon. John Byron, midshipman
+Alexander Campbell, ditto
+Isaac Morris, ditto
+Thomas Maclean, cook
+Richard Phipps, boatswain's mate
+John Mooring, ditto
+Matthew Langley, gunner's mate
+Guy Broadwater, coxswain
+Samuel Stook, seaman
+Joseph Clinch, ditto
+John Duck, ditto
+Peter Plastow, captain's steward
+John Pitman, butcher
+David Buckley, quarter-gunner
+Richard Noble, quarter-master
+William Moore, captain's cook
+George Smith, seaman
+Benjamin Smith, ditto
+William Oram, carpenter's mate
+John Hart, joiner
+John Bosman, seaman
+William Harvey, quarter-gunner
+Richard East, seaman
+Samuel Cooper, ditto
+Job Barns, ditto
+Joseph Butler, ditto
+William Rose, quarter-master
+John Shoreham, seaman
+John Hayes, ditto
+Henry Stephens, ditto
+William Callicutt, ditto
+John Russel, armourer
+James MacCawle, seaman
+William Lane, ditto
+James Roach, ditto
+John George, ditto
+John Young, cooper
+Moses Lewis, gunner's mate
+Nicholas Griselham, seaman."
+
+
+Monday the 12th, at day-light, launch'd the long-boat, and gave her the
+name of the Speedwell, (which God preserved to deliver us) we got all the
+provision on board, and other necessaries. The captain sent for the
+lieutenant, myself, and the carpenter, desiring us to leave him what could
+be spared, and to send to the deserters to know if they will go in the yawl
+to the northward, we promised to grant him his request. To-day every body
+got on board. The captain, surgeon, and Mr H----n, had their share of
+provisions equal with us.
+
+Tuesday the 13th, we sent the barge to the deserters, with Mr S----w, the
+mate, to know if they were willing to tarry, and go with the captain to the
+northward, to acquaint them what provision and necessaries should be
+allow'd 'em: They readily agreed to tarry. On the return of the boat,
+deliver'd to the captain the share of provision for the deserters, and
+sundry necessaries, as under-mentioned, viz.
+
+Six hand-grenadoes, five half barrels of powder, two caggs of musket-balls,
+Lieutenant H----n's pistols and gun, one pair of pistols for the captain,
+twelve musket-flints, six pistol-flints, sundry carpenter's tools, half a
+pint of sweet oil, two swords of the captain's own, five muskets, twelve
+pistol balls, one bible, one azimuth compass, one quadrant, and one
+Gunter's scale.
+
+Provision deliver'd to the captain, surgeon, and Lieutenant K----n, with
+eight deserters, which last are to be at half allowance of the quantity
+made out to the people, which make the whole number seven at whole
+allowance.
+
+To the captain, surgeon, and Lieutenant H----n, six pieces of beef, six
+pieces of pork, and ninety pound of flour; for the deserters, eight pieces
+of beef, eight pieces of pork, one hundred weight of flour.
+
+As soon as the above things were delivered, we got ready for sailing. I
+went and took my leave of the captain; he repeated his injunction, that at
+my return to England I would impartially relate all proceedings: He spoke
+to me in the most tender and affectionate manner, and, as a token of his
+friendship and regard for me, desired me to accept of a suit of his best
+wearing apparel: At parting he gave me his hand with a great deal of
+chearfulness, wishing me well and safe to England. This was the last time I
+ever saw the unfortunate Captain C----p. However, we hope to see him again
+in England, that Mr Cummins and myself may be freed from some heavy
+imputations to our prejudice, laid on us by the gentleman who succeeded him
+in command, and who, having an opportunity of arriving before us in
+England, not only in the places he touched at abroad, but at home, has
+blackened us with the greatest calumnies, and by an imperfect narrative,
+has not only traduced us, but made the whole affair so dark and mystical,
+that till the captain's arrival the l----s of the a----y will not decide
+for or against us. But if that unfortunate captain never returns to his
+country, let us do so much justice to his character, to declare that he was
+a gentleman possessed of many virtues: He was an excellent seaman himself,
+and loved a seaman; as for personal bravery, no man, had a larger share of
+it; even when a prisoner he preserved the dignity of a commander, no
+misfortune could dispirit or deject him, and fear was a weakness he was
+entirely a stranger to; the loss of the ship was the loss of him; he knew
+how to govern while he was a commander on board, but when things were
+brought to confusion and disorder, he thought to establish his command
+ashore by his courage, and to suppress the least insult on his authority on
+the first occasion; an instance of this was seen on the boatswain's first
+appearing ashore--shooting Mr Cozens, and treating him in the manner he did
+after his confinement, was highly resented by the people, who soon got the
+power in their own hands; the officers only had the name, and they were
+often compelled, for the preservation of their lives, to comply sometimes
+with their most unreasonable demands; and it is a miracle, amidst the
+wildness and distraction of the people, that there was no more bloodshed.
+
+At eleven in the forenoon, the whole body of people embarked, to the number
+of eighty-one souls, fifty-nine on board the vessel, on board the cutter
+twelve, and in the barge ten. At noon got under sail, the wind at N.W. by
+W. The captain, surgeon, and Mr H----n, being on the shore side, we gave
+them three cheers, which they returned. Coming out of Wager's Bay, split
+the foresail, and very narrowly escaped the rocks; with the assistance of
+the barge and our own oars, tow'd her clear, and bore away into a large
+sandy bay, on the south side of the lagoon, which we called by the name of
+the Speedwell Bay. At four in the afternoon, anchored in ten fathom fine
+sand, the barge and cutter went ashore, there not being room on board the
+boat to lodge the people.
+
+Wednesday the 14th, fresh gales at S.W. and W., with rain. At three this
+afternoon, being fair weather, weigh'd, and came to sail to take a cruize
+up the lagoon, to try the vessel, it being smooth water she work'd very
+well; after three or four trips returned, and anchor'd where we came from.
+
+
+"These are to certify the right honourable the lords commissioners for
+executing the office of lord high admiral of Great Britain, That we, whose
+names are under-mentioned, do beg leave to acquaint your lordships that
+Captain David Cheap, our late commander in his majesty's ship Wager, having
+publicly declared, that he will never go off this spot, at his own request
+desires to be left behind; but Captain Pemberton, of his majesty's land
+forces, having confined him a prisoner for the death of Mr Henry Cozens,
+midshipman, with Lieutenant Hamilton, for breaking his confinement, did
+insist on delivering them up on the beach to the charge of Lieutenant
+Beans, but he, with his officers and people, consulting the ill
+consequences that might attend carrying two prisoners off in so small a
+vessel, and for so long and tedious a passage as we are likely to have, and
+that they might have opportunities of acting such things in secret as may
+prove destructive to the whole body; and also in regard to the chief
+article of life, as the greatest part of the people must be obliged at
+every place we stop, to go on shore in search of provisions, and there
+being now no less than eighty-one souls in this small vessel, which we hope
+to be delivered in, we therefore, to prevent any difficulties to be added
+to the unforeseen we have to encounter with, think proper to agree, and in
+order to prevent murder, to comply with Captain David Cheap's request: The
+surgeon also begs leave to be left with him. Dated on board the Speedwell
+schooner, in Cheap's Bay, this 14th day of October, 1741.
+
+Robert Beans, lieutenant
+Thomas Clark, master
+John King, boatswain
+John Bulkeley, gunner
+John Cummins, master
+Robert Elliot, surgeon's mate
+John Jones, master's mate
+John Snow, ditto
+Captain Pemberton, of his majesty's land forces
+Vincent Oakley, surgeon of ditto."
+
+
+Thursday the 15th, this morning it being calm, made a signal for the boats
+to come off, by firing five muskets. At day-light came to sail, with the
+wind at W. by N. It blowing hard, and a great swell, the vessel would not
+work, therefore we were obliged to put into a small bay, lying S.W. of
+Harvey's Bay, where we had very good shelter, there being a large ledge of
+rocks without us, which broke the sea off. At eleven we sent the barge to
+Cheap's Bay, for what canvass could be found serviceable, having left a
+sufficient quantity behind to supply us with sails, in case we wanted 'em.
+Went in the barge the Hon. John Byron, at his own request, Alexander
+Campbell, midshipman; William Harvey, quarter-gunner; David Buckley, ditto;
+William Rose, quarter-master; Richard Noble, ditto; Peter Plastow,
+captain's steward; Joseph Clinch, seaman, and Rowland Crusset, marine. This
+afternoon the carpenter went ashore in the cutter, with several of the
+people, to look for provender. Shot several geese, and other sea-fowl.
+Rainy weather. Wind W.N.W.
+
+Friday the 16th, continual rain, and hard gales all night at S.W. This
+morning the carpenter came on board, and acquainted us that he saw an
+anchor of seven feet in the shank, the palm of each arm filed off just
+above the crown: This anchor we suppose to have belonged to some small
+vessel wreck'd on the coast. The cutter brought off abundance of shell-fish
+ready dress'd for the people.
+
+Sunday, the 18th, at noon, the cutter came off, and brought aboard plenty
+of shell-fish and greens. The Hon. Mr B----n, Mr C----l, and three of the
+barge's crew, came from where the barge lay. Mr B----n came aboard, and
+inform'd us of the barge being safe in the bay where we left her, and only
+waited the opportunity of weather to come round with her: At the same time
+he desired to know if we would give him, and those who would stay with
+Captain C----p, their share of provisions. This question of Mr B----n's
+very much surprized us; and what surprized us more was, that he should be
+influenced by Mr C----l, a person whom he always held in contempt. As for
+my part, I believe Mr B----n left us because he could not get an
+accommodation aboard the vessel that he liked, being obliged to lie forward
+with the men; as were also the carpenter and myself when below: It is very
+certain, that we are so closely pent up for want of room, that the worst
+jail in England is a palace to our present situation.
+
+Tuesday the 20th, served out to the people eight days' flour, to be dress'd
+ashore. I went in the cutter to command in my turn for a week.
+
+Wednesday the 21st, close weather; the wind from W. to N.W., with rain and
+hail. Brought aboard shell-fish in abundance. At noon the Honourable Mr
+B----n came with some of the crew over-land; he ask'd me whether the boat's
+crew were gone off, and if we had served the provision, for he wanted to
+return to the barge. I told him all the people were out a-fishing, and that
+the first who came in should carry him off. On which he said, I think we
+will go and get some fish too, having nothing else to live on. This was the
+last time I ever saw his honour. When the people return'd from fishing,
+they told me Mr B----n had lost his hat, the wind blowing it off his head.
+I said, rather than he should want a hat I would give him my own. One of
+the seamen forced a hat on his head; his name was John Duck: But Mr B----n
+would by no means wear it, saying, John, I thank you, if I accept of your
+kindness you must go bareheaded, and I think I can bear hardships as well
+as the best of you, and must use myself to them. I took eight people and
+went overland to the place where the barge lay, to get the canvass that we
+stood so much in need of, but found that she was gone from thence. The
+people in the barge told our men that they would return to us again, but it
+is plain they never intended it.
+
+Thursday the 22d, this day we saw sea-fowl in vast flocks, flying to the
+southward, where was a dead whale. Look'd out all this day for the barge,
+but to no purpose. The barge not returning was a very great misfortune,
+having no boat but the cutter; and if by an unlucky accident we lose her,
+we must be reduced to the greatest extremities to get provision. The
+persons in the barge, except the captain's steward, always approved of
+going to the southward, but it seems Mr C----l, the poltron, prevail'd on
+'em to return to Captain C----p.
+
+Friday the 23d, saw thousands of sea-fowl; in the morning they fly to the
+northward, and in the evening come back to the south; they are birds of a
+very large size, but of what kind we do not know. Since we have been here
+we saw several Indian graves; they are dug just within the surface of the
+earth, with a board on each side, and a cross stuck, up at the head. The
+day following, a gun, a four-pounder, was seen near the anchor in Clam Bay;
+we call it by this name, because of the vast quantities of this sort of
+shell-fish which are found there.
+
+Monday the 26th, it being very calm and fair weather, I went ashore to
+bring off the people; weigh'd the longboat, and took her in tow over a bar
+where there was ten feet water, but a great swell; as soon as we got over
+the bar there sprung up a breeze of wind at N.W., steer'd away S. 1/2 E.
+for the southmost part of land, which bore S. by E., distant fourteen
+leagues. The two points of land make a large and deep sandy bay, we sounded
+but found no ground; it is a bold shore close to. I kept a-head in the
+cutter, in order to provide a harbour for the long-boat; Providence
+directed us to a very good one: It blew so hard, with thick hazy weather,
+that we could not keep the sea. At eight at night we anchor'd in eight
+fathom water, a-breast of a fine sandy bay, and land-locked not above three
+boats length from the shore: At the entrance of the harbour, which lies
+about a league up the lagoon, I set the land, the northmost point bore by
+the compass N. by E., distant twelve leagues, and the southmost S. by W.,
+distant five leagues; the entrance lies E.
+
+Tuesday the 27th, fresh gales at west, and cloudy weather, with a great
+swell without, insomuch that we could not put out to sea; we therefore sent
+the people ashore to dress their provisions; each man is allow'd but a
+quarter of a pound of flour per day, without any other subsistence but what
+Providence brings in our way.
+
+Thursday, the 29th, early this morning it being calm and thick weather,
+with small rain, we rowed out of the lagoon; at five it cleared up, with a
+fresh breeze at S.S.E., steer'd S.W. and S.W. by W., saw a small island
+bearing S. by W., the southmost end S. by E. This island we called the rock
+of Dundee, it being much like that island in the West-Indies, but not so
+large; it lieth about four leagues distant from the southmost point of land
+out at sea. This day it blow'd so hard that we were obliged to take the
+cutter in tow.
+
+Friday the 30th, hard gales, and a great sea; saw some islands and some
+sunken rocks; at six saw the main in two points of land, with a large
+opening; on each side the sunken rocks are innumerable; the entrance is so
+dangerous, that no mortal would attempt it unless his case was desperate as
+ours, we have nothing but death before our eyes in keeping the sea, and the
+same prospect in running in with the land: We ran in before the wind to the
+opening that appear'd between the two points, the northmost of which bore
+N. by E., and the southmost S. by E. We steered in east, and found the
+opening to be a large lagoon on the southmost side, running into a very
+good harbour; here our small vessel lay secure in a cove, which nature had
+form'd like a dock; we had no occasion to let go our anchor, but ran
+alongside the land, and made fast our head and stern. The people went
+ashore in search of provision; here we found plenty of wood and water, and
+fine large muscles in great quantities. Served to each man half a piece of
+beef.
+
+Saturday the 31st, this morning cast loose and row'd towards the mouth of
+the lagoons, designing to put out to sea, but the wind blew so hard that we
+were obliged to come to an anchor. This afternoon, in weighing the grapnel
+in order to go to the cove, we found it foul among some rocks, all hands
+haul'd, took a turn round the main-mast and went aft, which weighed the
+grapnel, but straightened one of the flukes: Here the land is very high and
+steep on each side, the carpenter and cooper were on the highest of these
+hills, and found deep ponds of water on the top of them; these hills are
+very rocky, and there are great falls of water all along the coast: The
+whole navy of England may lie with safety in many of those lagoons, but the
+coast is too dangerous for any ship to fall in with the land. The people
+today were very much afflicted with the gripes and pains in their side.
+Here are abundance of trees, not unlike our yew-trees, they are not above
+seven or eight inches in diameter, and the bark is like cedar. The land is
+to appearance very good, but on digging beneath the surface we find it
+almost an entire stone. We saw no people here, though it is plain there
+have been some lately, by their wigwams or huts. We are so closely pent up
+for want of room, that our lodging is very uncomfortable; the stench of the
+men's wet cloaths makes the air we breathe nauseous to that degree, that
+one would think it impossible for a man to live below. We came to sail, and
+steered out of the lagoon west; went into a sandy bay one league to the
+southward of the lagoon. Indian huts to be seen, but no natives.
+
+Monday November 2d, at five in the morning, came to sail with the wind at
+S. and S. by E. At noon the wind came to the W. and W.N.W. in small
+breezes. This day I had a very good observation, it being the first since
+we left Cheap's Island. We found ourselves in the latitude of 50 deg. 0' S.
+After observing, bore away and ran into a fine smooth passage between the
+island and the main. These islands I believe to be the same that are taken
+notice of in Cook's voyage. From the entrance to the northward, to the
+going out of the Cape of Good Hope (as we call it) the distance is about
+six leagues, and the depth of the water is from two fathom to twelve; the
+northmost land before we came into the passage bore N. by W., and the
+southmost, or Cape of Good Hope, bore S. by E. In the evening anchored in a
+fine sandy bay; here we also saw Indian huts, but no people. To-day we shot
+wild geese in abundance, and got of shell-fish, as limpets and muscles.
+
+Tuesday the 3d, at four this morning weighed, and came to sail with the
+wind at W., till we got about the Cape of Good Hope, then at W.N.W.,
+steering S., and a tumbling sea from the W. The cutter steer'd S. by E.
+into a deep bay; supposing them not to see the southmost land, we made the
+signal for her, by hoisting an ensign at the topping-lift; as the cutter
+was coming up to us her square sail splitted, we offer'd to take them in
+tow, but they would not accept it; we lay with our sails down some time
+before they would show any signal of making sail; coming before the wind,
+and a large sea, we ordered them to steer away for the southmost point of
+land after us, and to keep as near us as possible; but, instead of
+observing our directions, they steered away into the cod of a deep bay,
+supposed to be King's Bay: The cutter being much to leeward, and the
+weather being very thick, we were obliged to steer after her, but soon lost
+sight of her. The place being exceeding dangerous, we could not venture any
+farther after the cutter, therefore we hauled by the wind to the southward,
+it continued blowing hard, with thick weather, with sunken rocks and
+breakers, so that we were obliged to bear away before the wind into a large
+bay, the tide running rampant, and in a great swell, every where surrounded
+with sunken rocks, that we thought nothing but a miracle could save
+us: at last we got safe into the bay, and came to in two fathom water, we
+steered in east. At four this morning rowed out between the islands, after
+we got out had a fresh breeze at N.W., steered out S.S.W. then S. and S. by
+E., the cutter a-head. At seven in the morning a-breast of Cape Good Hope,
+saw a large high rock bearing S., steered S. by E., going within it, and
+the main a-breast of the rocks, saw a long point making into islands
+bearing S. by E., steer'd S. until a-breast of them: The same day saw a
+very high land, with a low point running off in small hommacoes, bearing
+from the northmost point S. by E. about eighteen leagues; between those two
+points is a large deep bay, all within surrounded with rocks and small
+islands, steered S. and S. by W. for the outermost point, the cutter
+keeping within, and we considering the ill consequence of being embayed, to
+prevent which we hauled the mainsail and foresail down, and kept the vessel
+before the wind; at eleven the cutter came alongside, with her mainsail
+split; we called to them to take hold of a tow-rope, but they refused,
+telling us that the boat would not bear towing, by reason of the swell of
+the sea, therefore they would have us nearer the shore, where we should
+have smooth water; we answered them that the water was smoother without,
+and nothing nigh the sea that runs within; besides, we shall be embay'd,
+therefore we desire you to come on board the vessel, and we'll take the
+boat in tow: They had no regard to what we said; we at the same time, for
+above a quarter of an hour, lay in the trough of the sea, with a fair wind:
+The people in the cutter would neither make sail nor row, at last, finding
+them obstinate, we hoisted a skirt of the mainsail, and edged farther off,
+S. by W.; when they found we would not go into that bay, they hoisted their
+mainsail, and went a-head; being some distance a-head, we made sail, the
+cutter still keeping a-head till one o'clock, then she bore away S. by E.
+and S.S.E., the reason of which we could not tell, it blowing very hard,
+with a great sea, nothing before us but rocks and breakers, therefore of
+consequence the farther in the sea must be the greater. At half an hour
+past two, the cutter being on the beam, and four miles within us, we bore
+away after them, and in a very heavy squall of wind and rain we lost sight
+of her: After the squall was over it cleared up, but we saw nothing of the
+cutter, nor could we clear the shore to the northward, being not above two
+miles off the breakers; therefore we were under a necessity of hauling to
+the southward for self-preservation, and very narrowly escaped clearing the
+rocks: After running about three leagues, saw an opening, where we hoped to
+find a good harbour; Bore away for the opening, we were here again
+surrounded with rocks and breakers, with a hard gale of wind and a great
+sea, the oldest seaman on board never saw a more dismal prospect; we ran in
+before the wind for about two leagues; expecting every rise and fall of the
+sea to be a wreck, but Providence at length conducted us to an indifferent
+place of shelter: We were now in a most wretched condition, having no boat
+to go ashore in, to seek for provender, and the greatest part of the people
+on board are so regardless of life, that they really appear quite
+indifferent whether they shall live or die, and it is with much intreaty
+that any of them can be prevailed on to come upon deck, to assist for their
+preservation.
+
+The people's names in the cutter are as follow, viz.
+
+
+Names.              Quality.          Age.      Where born.
+
+Thomas Harvey,      purser,            23       Westminster.
+John Mooring,       boatswain's mate,  34       Gosport.
+William Oram,       carpenter's crew,  28       Philadelphia.
+Richard Phipps,     boatswain's mate,  30       Bristol.
+Matthew Lively,     gunner's mate,     34       Exeter.
+John George,        seaman,            22       Wandsworth.
+Nicholas Griselham, ditto,             31       Ipswich.
+James Stewart,      ditto,             35       Aberdeen.
+James Roach,        ditto,             21       Cork.
+James Butler,       ditto,             32       Dublin.
+John Allen,         ditto,             18       Gosport.
+
+
+Wednesday the 4th, hard gales at W.N.W., and a great sea without; served
+out flour and a piece of beef to two men for a week's subsistence; the
+weather is so bad that there is no other food to be got.
+
+Thursday the 5th, little wind at S.W., with heavy rains; at six this
+morning went under sail, but could make no hand of it, therefore were
+obliged to put back again: As soon as we came to an anchor, the boatswain
+employed himself in making a raft to get ashore with; this raft was made
+with oars and water barrels; when it was made, and over the side, it would
+carry three men, but it was no sooner put off from the vessel's side but it
+canted, and obliged the people to swim for their lives; the boatswain got
+hold of the raft, and with some difficulty reach'd the shore; when he came
+off in the evening, he informed us he had seen a beef puncheon, which gave
+us some reason to apprehend some other ship of the squadron had suffered
+our fate.
+
+Friday the 6th, this morning went under sail, the wind at W.N.W., with
+fresh gales and heavy rain, the wind came to the westward, and a great sea,
+so that we could not turn out over the bar: In our putting back we saw the
+cutter, a very agreeable sight, which gave us new life; in the evening
+anchored at the place sailed from, the carpenter and others went ashore to
+get shell-fish, which we stood in great need of; at night the proper boat's
+crew would not go ashore with the boat as usual, but made her fast a-stern
+of the vessel, with only two men in her, she never being left without four
+before; at eleven at night one of the men came out of her into the vessel,
+it blowing very hard at N.N.E., in half an hour shifted to N.W., and rainy
+weather, that we could not see a boat's length: At two the next morning the
+cutter broke loose from the stern of the vessel; we called from on board to
+James Stewart, the man that was in her, but he could not hear us: In a
+short time we lost sight of her, believing she must be stove among the
+rocks. The loss of the cutter gives the few thinking people aboard a great
+deal of uneasiness; we have seventy-two men in the vessel, and not above
+six of that number that gives themselves the least concern for the
+preservation of their lives, but are rather the reverse, being ripe for
+mutiny and destruction; this is a great affliction to the lieutenant,
+myself, and the carpenter, we know not what to do to bring them under any
+command, they have troubled us to that degree, that we are weary of our
+lives; therefore, this day we have told the people, that unless they alter
+their conduct, and subject themselves to command, that we will leave them
+to themselves, and take our chance in this desolate part of the globe,
+rather than give ourselves any farther concern about so many thoughtless
+wretches. Divided the people into four watches, to make more room below.
+The people have promised to be under government, and seem much easier.
+
+Sunday the 8th, this morning the people requested provisions to be served;
+it being four days before the usual time, we think the request very
+unreasonable. We laid the inconveniences before them of breaking in upon
+our stores, considering the badness of the weather, and the length of our
+passage, that if we are not exceedingly provident in regard to serving out
+provisions, we must all inevitably starve. They will not hearken to reason,
+therefore we are obliged to comply with their demands, and serve out
+provisions accordingly. Several of the people have desired to be put on
+shore, desiring us to allow them some few necessaries: We wanted to know
+what could induce them to request our putting them ashore in this remote
+and desolate part of the world: They answered, they did not fear doing
+well, and doubted not but to find the cutter, which, if they did, they
+would go back to the northward, otherwise they would make a canoe;
+therefore insisted on going ashore. On their earnest intreaties the body of
+people agreed to their request: We haul'd the boat close in shore; the
+people who chose to stay behind were eleven in number, we supply'd them
+with proper necessaries, and they signed a certificate, to inform the L----
+s of the A----y, that they were not compelled to stay, but made it their
+own choice, and that they did it for the preservation of themselves and us.
+
+
+_A Copy of their Certificate_.
+
+
+"These are to certify, the right honourable the lords commissioners for
+executing the office of lord high admiral of Great Britain, &c. That we,
+whose names are undermentioned, since the misfortune of losing the cutter,
+have consider'd the ill conveniences and difficulties to be attended, where
+so great a number of people are to be carried off, therefore we have
+requested and desired the officers and company remaining of the same vessel
+to put us on shore, with such necessaries of life as can be conveniently
+spared out of the vessel. We, of our own free will and choice, do indemnify
+all persons from ever being call'd to an account for putting us on shore,
+or leaving us behind, contrary to our inclinations. Witness our hands, on
+board the Speedwell schooner, in the latitude 50 deg. 40' S. this 8th day of
+November, 1741. Which was signed by the following people, viz.
+
+Mat. Langley, gunner's mate
+John Russel, armourer
+George Smith, cook's mate
+William Callicutt, washerman
+John Williamson, marine
+John McLeod, boatswain's servant
+John Hart, joiner
+Joseph Turner, captain's servant
+Luke Lyon, gunner's servant
+Rich. Phipps, boatswain's mate
+Henry Mortimer, marine.
+Witness, John Cummins, carpenter,
+         John Snow, master's mate,
+         Vincent Oakley, surgeon of the army."
+
+
+Monday the 9th, at ten at night, we weigh'd and rowed out of the bay, at
+day-light got about four leagues right out, every way surrounded with rocks
+and breakers, with a great western swell: We found it a very difficult
+matter to get clear of these rocks and breakers; they reach along shore
+eighteen leagues, and without us at sea eight leagues; I take it, that from
+the land they are fourteen leagues in the offing, those sunken rocks appear
+like a low level land. This coast is too dangerous for shipping, the wind
+being three parts of the year to the westward, which blows right on the
+shore, with a large western swell, that seldom or never ceases; it always
+blows and rains, it is worse here than in the rainy season on the coast of
+Guinea, nor can we as yet distinguish summer from winter, only by the
+length of the days. Steered out of the bay W. by N., then S. by W., then S.
+At noon I had a good observation in the latitude of 50 deg. 50' S., the
+northmost point of the bay bore N.E. by E. seven leagues, the southmost
+point of land S.S.E. twelve leagues. This coast, as far as we have come,
+lies N. by E. and S. by W. by the compass.
+
+Tuesday the 10th, at four this morning made all the sail we could; steering
+S.E. in order to make the land, at six steer'd in E.S.E. at seven made the
+land; at eight saw a point of land bearing S.E. distant six leagues, which,
+when a-breast, seeing no land to the S. I take the point for Cape Victory,
+and the four islands we see I believe to be the islands of Direction, which
+Sir John Narborough gives an account of, excepting the distance, they
+exactly answer his description; therefore, by the latitude, in yesterday's
+observation, and by the distance we have run since, we are now at the
+opening of the Streights of Magellan. At ten in the morning, hard gales at
+N.W. steer'd S.E. the cape bearing E. distant four leagues; at noon bore E.
+by N. distant six leagues; haul'd the main-sail down, and went under a
+fore-sail. I never in my life, in any part of the world, have seen such a
+sea as runs here, we expected every wave to swallow us, and the boat to
+founder. This shore is full of small islands, rocks, and breakers, so that
+we can't haul further to the southward, for fear of endangering the boat,
+we are obliged to keep her right before the sea. At five broach'd to, at
+which we all believ'd she would never rise again. We were surrounded with
+rocks, and so near that a man might toss a biscuit on 'em: We had nothing
+but death before our eyes, and every moment expected our fate. It blew a
+hurricane of wind, with thick rainy weather, that we could not see twice
+the boat's length; we pray'd earnestly for its clearing up, for nothing
+else could save us from perishing; we no sooner ask'd for light, but it was
+granted us from above. At the weather's clearing up, we saw the land on the
+north shore, with islands, rocks and breakers all around us; we were
+oblig'd to put in among 'em for shelter, finding it impossible to keep the
+sea, we were in with the land amongst them, and compell'd to push thro',
+looking death in the face, and expecting every sea to bury us; the boldest
+men amongst us were dismay'd, nor can we possibly give an account in what
+manner we have been this day deliver'd. After sailing amidst islands,
+rocks, and breakers, for above a league, we got safe into a good harbour,
+surrounded with small islands, which kept the sea off; here the water was
+as smooth as in a mill-pond. We call this harbour the Port of God's Mercy,
+esteeming our preservation this day to be a miracle. The most abandon'd
+among us no longer doubt of an Almighty Being, and have promis'd to reform
+their lives.
+
+Wednesday the 11th, the wind much abated, with rain. This morning weigh'd,
+and ran farther in. In the evening we saw two Indians lying on their
+bellies on the top of a steep rock, just over the vessel, peeping with
+their heads over the hill. As soon as we discover'd them, we made motions
+to them to come down; they then rose up, and put on their heads white
+feather'd caps; we then hoisted a white sheet for an ensign: At this they
+made a noise, pronouncing Orza, Orza, which we took for a signal to come
+ashore. We would not suffer above two men to go ashore, and those disarm'd,
+lest we should put them in fear. The Indians had nothing in their hands but
+a club, like our cricket-batts, with which they kill their seal. As soon as
+they saw the two men come ashore they walk'd away, and when they perceiv'd
+our men follow'd them, and gain'd ground of them, they took to their heels,
+frequently looking back, crying Orza, Orza, beckoning the people to follow,
+which they did for a mile or two along-shore, out of sight of the vessel:
+Then the Indians fled to the woods, still wanting our people to follow
+them; but being disarm'd, they were apprehensive the Indians would bush-
+fight them, so they thought proper to give over the pursuit, and to return
+to the boat.
+
+Thursday the 12th, hard gales at W.N.W., with rain. At six this morning we
+again saw the two Indians, they made the same noise and motions to come
+ashore: At which I went with four of the people; the Indians walk'd and ran
+as before, looking back, and making signs to follow, which we did till we
+got to the place where the canoe lay with the four Indians in her. The two
+Indians got into the canoe, and put her off the shore before we could get
+nigh them: As soon as we got abreast of the canoe, they made signs as if
+they wanted clothing; we endeavour'd to make them understand we wanted
+fish, and would truck with them; they had none, but signified to us they
+would go and get some: They had a mangey dog, which they parted with to one
+of the people for a pair of cloth trowsers; this dog was soon kill'd,
+dress'd, and devour'd. Here we found plenty of muscles, which gave us great
+relief, having scarce any thing to subsist on for this week past.
+
+Friday the 13th, very uncertain weather, and squally, the wind variable
+from W.N.W. to S.S.W. This morning all hands ashore a-fishing. Lieutenant
+E----rs of the marines kill'd a large seal or sea-dog, it is exceeding good
+food, and we judg'd it to have weigh'd seventeen score.
+
+Saturday the 14th, little wind at W.N.W. and close weather, with rain. At
+five this morning cast loose, and steer'd south out between the islands,
+the weather clearing up, we saw the south shore: It first appear'd like a
+large island, stretching away to the westward, and at the west end two
+hammacoes like sugar-loaves, and to the southward of them a large point of
+rocks, steer'd S.E. until the point bore W. then steer'd S.E. by E. I took
+the point for Cape Pillar, and was fully assur'd of our being in the
+Streights.
+
+Sunday the 15th, at three this morning cast loose, and row'd, but could not
+get out, so were oblig'd to put back, and make fast, it blowing hard, with
+thick weather all day, in the evening it clear'd up. This day several
+people drove a trade with their allowance, giving silver buckles for flour,
+valued at twelve shillings per pound, and before night it reach'd to a
+guinea, the people crying aloud for provisions, which are now so scarce,
+that several on board are actually starving thro' want.
+
+Monday the 16th, at three this morning cast loose, being little wind, and
+steer'd up the Streights S.E. by E. the wind at N.W. At eight o'clock got
+a-breast of Cape Munday, at nine the cape bore W. distant four leagues, at
+noon running along shore, made two openings, which put the rest of the
+officers to a stand, not knowing which to take for their right passage.
+Asking my opinion, I gave it for keeping on the E.S.E. passage, the other
+lying S.E. by S. On which they said, Sir John Narborough bids us keep the
+south shore on board. I answer'd, that Sir John tells us E.S.E. is the
+direct course from Cape Pillar: I'll venture my life that we are now in the
+right passage; so we kept on E. by S. half S. After running a league or two
+up, and not seeing Cape Quod, nor any outlet, the wind blowing hard, we
+were for running no farther, whereas one league more would have convinc'd
+every body, but they all gave against me, that we were not in the right
+passage: The wind being at W.N.W. we could not turn back again; so that we
+were oblig'd to put into a cove lying on the north shore, where we found
+good anchoring in four fathom water: No provisions to be got here, being a
+barren rocky place, producing not any thing for the preservation of life.
+This afternoon died George Bateman, a boy, aged sixteen years: This poor
+creature starv'd, perish'd, and died a skeleton, for want of food. There
+are several more in the same miserable condition, and who, without a speedy
+relief, must undergo the same fate.
+
+Tuesday the 17th, at five this morning, weigh'd, and row'd out, it being
+calm; at seven a fresh breeze right up the sound, we could not turn to
+windward not above a mile from where we last lay, we made fast along-side
+the rocks; all hands ashore a-fishing for muscles, limpets, and clams; here
+we found those shell-fish in abundance, which prov'd a very seasonable
+relief. Just before we got in, one of the men gave a guinea for a pound of
+flour, being all the money he had.
+
+Wednesday the 18th, the wind at W.N.W. in hard squalls, with hail and snow.
+This morning cast loose, and stood over to the southward, believing the
+tide to run stronger and more true than on the north-shore, hoping shortly
+to get out of the sound, which is not above a league in the wind's eye. At
+two o'clock got into a cove on the south side, made fast along side of the
+rocks; all hands on shore getting muscles and other fish.
+
+Thursday the 19th, fresh gales W.N.W. with hail and snow. This morning cast
+loose, and sail'd out, but could make no hand of it, our boat will not work
+to windward; put back from whence we came, and sent the people ashore to
+get muscles. This night departed this life Mr Thomas Caple, son of the late
+Lieutenant Caple, aged twelve years, who perish'd for want of food. There
+was a person on board who had some of the youth's money, upwards of twenty
+guineas, with a watch and silver cup. Those last the boy was willing to
+sell for flour; but his guardian told him, he would buy cloaths for him in
+the Brazil. The miserable youth cry'd, Sir, I shall never live to see the
+Brazil, I am starving now, almost starv'd to death, therefore, for God's
+sake, give me my silver cup to get me some victuals or buy some for me
+yourself. All his prayers and intreaties to him were vain, but heaven sent
+death to his relief, and put a period to his miseries in an instant.
+Persons who have not experienc'd the hardships we have met with, will
+wonder how people can be so inhuman to see their fellow-creatures starving
+before their faces, and afford 'em no relief: But hunger is void of all
+compassion; every person was so intent on the preservation of his own life,
+that he was regardless of another's, and the bowels of commiseration were
+shut up. We slip no opportunity, day or night, to enter into the suppos'd
+right Streights, but can get no ground. This day we serv'd flour and a
+piece of beef between two men for a week. Captain P----n, of his majesty's
+land forces, gave two guineas for two pounds of flour; this flour was sold
+him by the seamen, who live on muscles. Many of the people eat their flour
+raw as soon as they are serv'd it. The wind and weather not permitting us
+to go out, the men were employ'd in getting wood and water.
+
+Tuesday the 24th, this morning it being calm, row'd out, at eight o'clock
+had the supposed right Streights open, having a breeze at W.N.W. S.E. by E.
+through the first reach, and S.S.E. through the second, then saw three
+islands, the largest of which lies on the north-shore, and there is a
+passage about two miles broad between that and the islands to the
+southward; there is also another passage between that island and the north-
+shore, of a mile and a half broad. Before you come to those islands there
+is a sound lying on the south-shore: You can see no passage until you come
+close up with the island, and then the imaginary Streights are not above
+two miles broad. Steer'd away for the island S.E. about two leagues, then
+came into a narrow passage, not above a cable's length over, which put us
+all to a stand, doubting of any farther passage. The wind took us a-head,
+and the tide being spent we put into a small cove, and made fast. At seven
+in the evening, being calm, cast loose, being willing to see if there was
+any opening, but to our great misfortune, found none, which very much
+surpriz'd us. The lieutenant is of opinion, that we are in a lagoon to the
+northward of the Streights. This I cannot believe, and am positive, if ever
+there was such a place in the world as the Streights of Magellan, we are
+now in them, and above thirty leagues up. If he or any of the officers had
+given themselves the trouble of coming upon deck, to have made proper
+remarks, we had been free from all this perplexity, and by this time out of
+the Streights to the northward. There is not an officer aboard, except the
+carpenter and myself, will keep the deck a moment longer than his watch, or
+has any regard to a reckoning, or any thing else. It is agreed to go back
+again.
+
+Wednesday the 25th, little wind with rain. At eight this morning row'd out,
+and got about a league down; here we could get no ground, and were obliged
+to put back again.
+
+Thursday the 26th, little wind; row'd out, got about five leagues down.
+This day we were in such want of provisions, that we were forced to cut up
+the seal skin and broil it, notwithstanding it has lain about the deck for
+this fortnight.
+
+Friday the 27th, little wind and close weather. This morning cast loose and
+row'd down, had a fresh breeze at north, steer'd W.S.W. into another
+opening on the south-shore, hoping to find a passage out of the lagoon, as
+the lieutenant calls it, into the right Streights. After going two leagues
+up saw there was no opening, put back and made fast where we came from,
+being determined to go back and make Cape Pillar a second time, which is
+the south entrance of the Streights. Got abundance of large muscles, five
+or six inches long, a very great relief to us at present.
+
+Sunday the 29th, hard gales from N.W. to S.W. with heavy rains. Great
+uneasiness among the people, many of them despairing of a deliverance, and
+crying aloud to serve provisions four days before the time. Finding no way
+to pacify them, we were obliged to serve them. We endeavoured to encourage
+and comfort them as much as lay in our power, and at length they seemed
+tolerably easy.
+
+Monday the 30th, fresh gales at W. with continual rain. This day died three
+of our people, viz. Peter Delroy, barber, Thomas Thorpe and Thomas
+Woodhead, marines, they all perish'd for want of food: Several more are in
+the same way, being not able to go ashore for provisions, and those who are
+well cannot get sufficient for themselves, therefore the sick are left
+destitute of all relief. There is one thing to be taken notice of in the
+death of those people, that some hours before they die they are taken
+lightheaded, and fall a joking and laughing, and in this humour they
+expire.
+
+Tuesday, December the 1st, 1741, little wind, and fair weather, which is a
+kind of prodigy in those parts. In the morning put out of the cove, and got
+four leagues down; then the wind took us a-head, and we put into another
+cove where we got muscles and limpets. At four this afternoon saw an Indian
+canoe coming over from the north-shore; they landed two of their men to the
+leeward of the cove, they came opposite to us, and viewed us, then went
+back, and came with the canoe within a cable's length of our boat, but no
+nearer, so that we had no opportunity to truck with them.
+
+Wednesday the 2d, little wind, with rain. At nine this morning row'd out
+and got about a league farther down; the wind beginning to blow fresh, we
+put into another cove, and found plenty of shell-fish, which kept up our
+spirits greatly, for it is enough to deject any thinking man, to see that
+the boat will not turn to windward, being of such length, and swimming so
+buoyant upon the water, that the wind, when close haul'd, throws her to
+leeward: We have been seventeen days going seven or eight leagues to
+windward, which must make our passage very long and uncomfortable.
+
+Friday the 4th, little wind at S. and fair. This morning rowed out, at ten
+got down, where we saw a smoke, but no people; we saw a dog running along
+shore, and keeping company with the boat for above a mile; we then put in,
+with a design, to shoot him, but he soon disappointed us, by taking into
+the woods. We put off again with a fine breeze, steering N.W. by W. down
+the Streights. The carpenter gave a guinea this day for a pound of flour,
+which he made into cakes, and eat instantly. At six in the evening abreast
+of Cape Munday; at eight abreast of Cape Upright, being fair weather.
+Intend to keep under sail all night.
+
+Saturday the 5th, little wind and fair: At four this morning I saw Cape
+Pillar, bearing W. by N. distant eight leagues; saw a smoke on the south
+shore, and at noon we saw a smoke on the north shore, but we did not care
+to lose time: At three o'clock saw Cape Desseada, bearing from Cape Pillar
+S.W. distant four leagues, at four o'clock wore the boat, and steered
+E.S.E. The lieutenant was now fully convinced we have been all along in the
+right Streights, and had we run but one league further, on Monday, Nov. 17,
+we had escaped all this trouble and anxiety: As for my own part, I was very
+well assured, from the first entrance, that we were right, but the
+lieutenant would not believe that it was Cape Pillar on the S. shore coming
+into the Streights, but thought we were in a lagoon to the northward; so
+that we have been above a fortnight coming back to rectify mistakes, and to
+look at Cape Pillar a second time: At eight o'clock came abreast of the
+smoke seen in the morning. The people being well assured that we are
+actually in the Streights of Magellan, are all alive. Wind at W.S.W.
+
+Sunday, little wind at W. with rain; at three this morning abreast of Cape
+Munday; at six abreast of Cape de Quod, opposite to which, on the south
+shore, saw a smoke, on which we went ashore to the Indians, who came out on
+a point of land, at the entrance of a cove, hollowing and crying, _Bona!
+Bona!_ endeavouring to make us understand they were our friends; when
+ashore, we traded with them for two dogs, three brant geese, and some seal,
+which supply was very acceptable to us; we supped on the dogs, and thought
+them equal in goodness to the best mutton in England. We took from the
+Indians a canoe, made of the bark of trees, but soon towed her under water,
+and were obliged to cut her loose; steered N.E. by E. At eight o'clock
+abreast of St Jerom's Sound; at twelve abreast of Royal Island.
+
+The Indians we saw in the Streights of Magellan are people of a middle
+stature, and well shaped, their complexion of a tawny olive colour, their
+hair exceeding black, but not very long, they have round faces and small
+noses, their eyes little and black, their teeth are smooth and even, and
+close set, of an incomparable whiteness, they are very active in body, and
+run with a surprising agility, they wear on their heads white feathered
+caps, their bodies are covered with the skins of seals and guinacoes. The
+women, as soon as they saw us, fled into the woods, so that we can give no
+description of them.
+
+Monday the 7th, fresh gales at W.N.W. and fine weather; at six this morning
+abreast of Cape Forward, steered N. by E. At nine abreast of Port Famine,
+at twelve at noon put in at Freshwater bay, and filled one cask of water,
+having none aboard; at one o'clock put out again, steered N. by E.
+expecting plenty of wood and water at Elizabeth's Island; at nine at night
+passed by Sandy Point, it bore S.S.E. and the island St George E.N.E.
+distant three leagues.
+
+Tuesday the 8th, at four this morning, being calm, weighed, and rowed
+towards Elizabeth's Island, it bearing W.N.W. At four in the afternoon
+anchored off the northmost in eight fathom water, fine sand, about half a
+cable's length from the shore put the vessel in, and landed some people to
+see for wood and water. In the evening the people came aboard, having been
+all over the island in search of wood and water, but found none; here
+indeed we found shaggs and sea-gulls in great numbers, it being breeding
+time, we got a vast quantity of their eggs, most of them having young ones
+in the shell: However, we beat them up all together, with a little flour,
+and made a very rich pudding. Elizabeth's Island is a beautiful spot of
+ground to appearance, with very good pasture, but it is entirely barren of
+any thing for the support of man. This day John Turner, marine, perished
+for want of food.
+
+Wednesday the 9th, at four this morning weighed, and steered E.N.E. for the
+Narrows, with the wind at S.S.W., when abreast ef the Sweepstakes Foreland,
+steered S.S.E. on purpose to look for water; after going along shore about
+six leagues into a deep bay, we saw a fine delightful country: Here we saw
+the guianacoes in great numbers, ten or twelve in a drove; they are to be
+seen in such droves all along the shore for several leagues.
+
+The guianacoe is as large as any English deer, with a long neck, his head,
+mouth, and ears resembling a sheep; he has very long slender legs, and is
+cloven-footed like a deer, with a short bushy tail of a reddish colour; his
+back is covered with red wool, pretty long; but down his sides, and all the
+belly part, is white wool: Those guianacoes, though at a distance very much
+resembling the female deer, are probably the sheep of this country; they
+are exceeding nimble, of an exquisite quick sight, very shy, and difficult
+to be shot: At noon, finding neither wood nor water, wore to the northward,
+at three got abreast of the Foreland, hauled in for Fish Cove, which lieth
+just round the eastern point; here we expected to land and shoot some of
+the guianacoes, but when abreast of the Cove, the wind blew so hard right
+out, that we were obliged to bear away for the first Narrow, it being
+impossible to get in. At eight this evening entered the first Narrow,
+meeting the flood, which runs here very strong; at twelve came to an anchor
+in five fathom, about a mile off shore. The tide floweth on the western
+shore seven hours, and ebbs five. This day Robert Vicars, marine, perished
+with want.
+
+Thursday the 10th, at four this morning weighed, and came to sail; at six
+got out of the first Narrow, hauled in for a deep bay on the north shore to
+seek for water: The boatswain swam ashore, and in half an hour afterwards
+came down on the beach, and brought us the news of finding fresh water. It
+being rocky ground and ebbing water, the vessel struck; we were obliged in
+this exigence to slip the cable, time not permitting us to haul up the
+anchor, we stood off, and on the shore till half flood, then went in and
+took the cable on board: After landing some people with casks to fill,
+hauled the anchor up, and went about two miles farther out.
+
+Friday the 11th, at three this morning the boat struck upon the tide of
+ebb, it ebbing so fast we could not get her off, in a quarter of an hour's
+time the boat was dry; we were favoured with little wind and smooth water,
+otherwise she must have stove to pieces, the ground being very foul; it
+ebbs dry above a league off, and there is shoal water a great deal further
+out, so that it is dangerous for a ship to haul into this bay. While the
+boat was dry got all the water casks out of the hold, and put them ashore
+to be filled. At six hauled the boat off, having received no damage; at
+eight, it being four feet flood, run the boat close in shore and took off
+our water, the whole quantity being four tons, out of which we were obliged
+to leave two puncheons, one quarter-cask, with three muskets, a funnel, and
+some other necessaries, and were very much concerned lest we should also
+leave some of the people ashore. The wind blowing hard, and the sea
+tumbling in, we were under a necessity of hauling off and putting to sea,
+for fear of losing the boat. Since we left the island where the Wager was
+lost, we have several times very narrowly escaped being made a wreck, and
+sometimes have been preserved when we have seen our fate before our eyes,
+and every moment expected it, and when all the conduct and ability of men
+could have availed nothing. Any one who has been a witness of those
+providential deliverances, and doubts the being of a Supreme Power,
+disqualifies himself from any title to all future mercy, and justly
+deserves the wrath of an incensed Deity. This day, at noon, being well out
+of the bay, and nigh mid-channel over, steered E.N.E. for Cape Virgin Mary,
+with a fine gale at S.W. At one we saw the cape bearing N.E, by E. distant
+nine leagues; at seven in the evening saw a low point of flat land,
+stretching away from the cape S.S.E. two leagues; at eight little or no
+wind, steered E. by S. at twelve at night doubled the point, the wind at W.
+right in the middle of the bay, where we filled the water; in land lie two
+peaks, exactly like ass's ears. We would advise all vessels from hauling
+into this bay, it being shoal water and foul ground. As for every other
+part of the Straights of Magellan, from Cape Victory to Cape Virgin Mary,
+we recommend Sir John Narborough, who in his account is so just and exact,
+that we think it is impossible for any man living to mend his works. We
+have been a month in those Streights, from our first sight of Cape Pillar
+to Cape Virgin Mary. The whole length of the Streights, the reaches and
+turnings included, is reckoned one hundred and sixteen leagues.
+
+Saturday the 12th, little wind, and fair weather. At one this morning
+steered N. by W. At four the wind came to N.W. Tacked and stood to the
+westward; the two points stretching off from the cape bore N.W. by W.
+distant two leagues. At noon, the wind being at N.E. steering along shore
+from the cape, saw on the shore three men, on mules or horses, riding
+towards us; when they came abreast of us, they stopped and made signals,
+waving their hats, as though they wanted to speak with us; at which we
+edged close to the shore, where we saw to the number of twenty; five of
+them rode abreast, the others were on foot, having a large store of cattle
+with them. On sight of this, we anchored within a mile of the shore. The
+cape bore W.S.W. distant seven leagues, the swell tumbling in from the sea,
+would not permit us to speak with'em, by their motions, actions, cloathing,
+and by their whole behaviour, we took them for Christians: It being a plain
+level land, they rode backwards and forwards like racers, waving white
+handkerchiefs, and making signs for us going into a bay, which lay about a
+league to the northward, which we designed to do on the tide of ebb. The
+flood being very strong against us, they waited on the shore till the tide
+was spent; we weighed and stood to northward, the wind blowing right in
+from sea, and a great swell, we could not clear the land, so that we wore
+and stood to the southward, and very narrowly escaped clearing the breakers
+off the pitch of the cape, which lay about two leagues out at sea to the
+southward. At nine at night the cape bore W. distant six leagues; stood out
+to sea till eleven o'clock, then wore and stood in, the wind shifting to
+N.N.E. The next morning we steered in for the bay, and saw those people
+again; but the wind soon afterwards veering to the westward, and blowing
+strong, we were obliged to bear away: We could not by any means come to the
+knowledge of these people; whether they are unfortunate creatures that have
+been cast away, or whether they are inhabitants about the river Gallegoes,
+we can't tell.
+
+Tuesday the 15th, fresh gales and fair weather. This morning saw the land;
+the southmost point bore W.S.W., the northmost point N.N.E. At eight saw
+two ledges of rocks, running two leagues out from a point of land which
+makes like an old castle. At noon the extremes of the land bore W. by N.
+distant three leagues, had a good observation, latitude 49: 10 S. Course
+made this twenty-four hours is N. by E. half E. distant 104 miles,
+longitude in 74: 05 W.
+
+Wednesday, the 16th, at noon abreast of Penguin island, not above half a
+mile from shore. We saw on this island seals and penguins without number,
+the shore being entirely covered with them. We find the penguin exactly to
+answer Sir John Narborough's description; therefore we beg leave to give it
+the reader in that excellent navigator's own words: "The penguin is a fowl
+that lives by catching and eating fish, which he dives for, and is very
+nimble in the water; he is as big as a brant goose, and weighs near about
+eight pounds; they have no wings, but flat stumps like fins; their coat is
+a downy stumped feather; they are blackish grey on the backs and heads, and
+white about their necks and down their bellies; they are short-legged like
+a goose, and stand upright like little children in white aprons, in
+companies together; they are full-necked, and headed and beaked like a
+crow, only the point of their bill turns down a little; they will bite
+hard, but they are very tame, and will drive in herds to your boat-side
+like sheep, and there you may knock'em on the head, all one after another;
+they will not make any great haste away." We steered N.W. by N. for the
+harbour of Port Desire: The going into this harbour is very remarkable; on
+the south side lies, one mile in the land, an high peaked-tip rock, much
+like a tower, looking as though it was a work of art set up for a land-mark
+to steer into this harbour; this rock is forty feet high. At five o'clock
+got into the harbour, run up to Seal Island, which lieth about a league up;
+here we killed more seal in half an hour than we could carry off, being
+obliged to leave the greatest part of what we killed behind. The people
+eating greedily of the seal, were seized with violent fevers and pains in
+their heads. While we were at Port Desire we had seal and fowl in
+abundance. The carpenter found here a parcel of bricks, some of'em with
+letters cut in them, on one of those bricks these words were very plain and
+legible, viz. _Capt. Straiton, 16 Cannons, 1687_. Those we imagine have
+been laid here from a wreck. The carpenter with six men went in search of
+water, a mile up the water's side; they found Peckett's well, mention'd in
+Sir John Narborough's book; the spring is so small, that it doth not give
+above thirty gallons per day, but the well being full, supplied us. The
+people grow very turbulent and uneasy, requiring flour to be served out;
+which, in our present circumstance, is a most unreasonable request; we have
+but one cask of flour on board, and a great distance to run into the
+Brazil, and no other provision in the boat but the seal we have killed
+here: Nay, they carry their demands much higher, insisting that the marine
+officers, and such people as cannot be assisting in working the boat, shall
+have but half the allowance of the rest; accordingly they have pitched upon
+twenty to be served half a pound of flour each man, and themselves a pound.
+This distinction the half-pounders complain of, and that twenty are
+selected to be starved. While we were at Port Desire, one day dressing our
+victuals, we set fire to the grass; instantly the flames spread, and
+immediately we saw the whole country in a conflagration, and the next day,
+from the watering-place, we saw the smoke at a distance, so that then the
+fire was not extinguished.
+
+Friday the 25th, little wind, and fair weather; went up to our slaughter-
+house in Seal island, and took on board our sea-store, which we completed
+in half an hour's time; turned down the harbour with the tide of ebb, in
+the evening, the wind at N.E. could make no hand of it, so bore away for
+the harbour again, and came to an anchor.
+
+Saturday the 26th, at three in the morning, sailed out of Port Desire
+harbour; steered out E.N.E. At six Penguin island bore S. by E. distant six
+leagues, and Cape Blanco N.W. by N. four leagues. This day I took my
+departure from Cape Blanco; I judge the cape to lie in the longitude of 71:
+00 W. from the meridian of London.
+
+Monday the 28th, moderate gales, and fair. This day served out all the
+flour in the boat, at three pound and a half to each man. We have now
+nothing to live on but seal, and what Providence throws in our way.
+
+Friday, January the 1st, 1741-2, fresh gales and fair weather, with a great
+sea. At ten last night shifting the man at the helm, brought her by the
+lee, broke the boom; and lost a seaman overboard. The greatest part of our
+seal taken in at Port Desire, for want of salt to cure it there, now stinks
+very much; but having nothing else we are obliged to eat it. We are now
+miserable beyond description, having nothing to feed on ourselves, and at
+the same time almost eaten up with vermin.
+
+Wednesday the 6th, departed this life Mr Thomas Harvey, the purser; he died
+a skeleton for want of food: This gentleman probably was the first purser
+belonging to his majesty's service that ever perished with hunger. We see
+daily a great number of whales.
+
+Sunday the 10th, this day at noon, in working the bearings, and distant to
+Cape St Andrew, do find myself not above thirteen leagues distant from the
+land, therefore hauled in N.W. to make it before night. We saw to-day
+abundance of insects, particularly butterflies and horse-stingers. We have
+nothing to eat but some stinking seal, and not above twenty out of the
+forty-three which are now alive have even that, and such hath been our
+condition for this week past; nor are we better off in regard to water,
+there not being above eighty gallons on board: Never were beheld a parcel
+of more miserable objects, there are not above fifteen of us healthy, (if
+people may be called healthy that are scarce able to crawl). I am reckoned
+at present one of the strongest men in the boat, yet can hardly stand on my
+legs ten minutes together, nor even that short space of time without
+holding: Every man of us hath had a new coat of skin from head to foot: We
+that are in the best state of health do all we can to encourage the rest.
+At four this afternoon, we were almost transported with joy at the sight of
+land, (having seen no land for fourteen days before) the extremes of which
+bore N.W. about seven leagues; we ran in with it, and at eight anchored in
+eight fathom; fine sand about a league from the shore; the northmost point
+bore about N.E., the southmost point about S.W. by S. This day perished for
+want of food, serjeant Ringall.
+
+Monday the 11th, at four this morning weighed, and came to sail, steering
+along shore N.E. by E. This is a pleasant and delightful country to sail
+by: We kept within a mile of the shore; we saw horses and large dogs in
+great numbers, the shore being perfectly covered with them. At noon I had a
+good observation in the latitude of 38: 40 S. At the same time a-head land,
+which I took for Cape St Andrew's; it is a long sandy point, very low,
+where a shoal runs off S.E. about three leagues. Sounded, and had but two
+fathom and half at high-water. When we got clear of this, we steered N.E.
+into a sandy bay, and anchored there in three fathom and half, fine sand;
+the north point bore N.N.W., the south point S.E. by E. Here is a great
+swell, and shoal water. This bay we call Shoalwater Bay.
+
+Tuesday the 12th, lying in Shoalwater Bay, the wind at S.E. and fair
+weather. Having nothing on board the vessel to eat, and but one cask of
+water to drink, we put her in as nigh as we could venture; so that any
+person who had the least skill in swimming, might get ashore: Here runs a
+pretty large surf, which may endanger our vessel; this puts us to a stand:
+To go from hence without meat or drink is certain death. A few of the
+healthiest were resolved to swim on shore, to get water and provisions; the
+officers, viz. the boatswain, carpenter, and Lieutenant E----rs, to animate
+the rest, first leaped into the water; eleven of the people followed them;
+in this attempt one of the marines was unfortunately drowned: We tossed
+overboard four quarter-casks to fill with water; lashing to the cask two
+fire-locks on each side, with ammunition for shooting. When the officers
+and people got on shore, they saw thousands of horses and dogs; the dogs
+are of a mongril breed, and very large. They also saw abundance of parrots
+and seals on the rocks, but not a bush growing on the place; they made a
+fire with horse dung, and shot a great many seal, which they cut up in
+quarters to bring aboard. One of the water-casks being leaky, they cut it
+up, and converted it into fuel to dress the seal. They caught four
+armadilloes, they are much larger than our hedge-hogs, and very like them;
+their bodies are cased all over with shells, shutting under one another
+like shells of armour. In this country thirteen of his majesty's British
+subjects put to flight a thousand Spanish horse. Horses are more numerous
+here, than sheep are on the plains in Dorset and Wiltshire. We on board see
+abundance of seal lying on the shore cut in pieces, but the wind blows so
+hard we can by no means get at it. We think ourselves now worse off than
+ever, for we are actually starving in the sight of plenty. We have but two
+people on board that can swim; to give them all the assistance we can, the
+lieutenant and myself, with the rest of the people, proposed to haul the
+vessel nearer in, and make a raft for one of the two to swim ashore on, and
+to carry a line to haul some of the seal aboard: With much entreaty these
+two swimmers were prevailed on to cast lots; the lot falling on the weakest
+of 'em, who was a young lad about fifteen years of age, and scarce able to
+stand, we would not suffer him to go. While our brethren were regaling in
+the fulness of plenty ashore, we aboard were obliged to strip the hatches
+of a seal-skin, which has been for some time nailed on, and made use of for
+a tarpawlin; we burnt the hair off the skin, and for want of any thing else
+fell to chewing the seal-skin.
+
+Wednesday the 13th, fine weather and calm. At six this morning the
+boatswain shot a horse, and the people a wild dog. The horse was branded on
+the left buttock with these letters A.R. By this we conjecture there are
+inhabitants not far off. At nine veered the boat in, lashed the oars to the
+hatches, and made a stage to haul up the seal. The people swam off three
+casks of water, sent on shore one quarter-cask more, and two breakers. Came
+aboard the boatswain, carpenter, and Lieutenant E----rs, and four men more
+are getting the seal and the horse on board, which was no sooner in the
+vessel than a sea-breeze came in, and blowed so hard, that we were obliged
+to weigh, leaving ashore one quarter-cask, two breakers, and eight of the
+people. The wind at E.S.E. and a tumbling sea, came to an anchor about a
+league off the shore; we shared all the provisions among the company; we
+still see the people ashore, but can't get them off.
+
+Thursday the 14th, hard gales at E.S.E. and fair weather. Last night the
+sea was so great, that it broke the rudder-head off; we were doubtful every
+moment of the vessel's parting, which if she had, we must have been all of
+us inevitably lost. We were obliged to put to sea, not being able to get
+the people off. We sent ashore in a scuttled puncheon some wearing apparel,
+four muskets, with balls, powder, flints, candles, and several necessaries,
+and also a letter to acquaint them of the danger we were in, and of the
+impossibility of our riding it out till they could get off.
+
+In Freshwater Bay, dated on board the Speedwell schooner, on the coast of
+South America, in the latitude of 37: 25 S. longitude from the meridian of
+London, 65: 00 W. this 14th day of January, 1741-2.
+
+
+"These are to certify the right honourable the lords commissioners for
+executing the office of lord high admiral of Great Britain, &tc. That we,
+whose names are undermentioned, having nothing left on board the vessel but
+one quarter-cask of water, were obliged to put into the first place we
+could for subsistence, which, was in Freshwater-Bay; where we came to an
+anchor, as near the shore as we could, without endangering the vessel,
+having no boat aboard, and a large surf on the shore, therefore Mr King the
+boatswain, Mr Cummins the carpenter, and Lieutenant Ewers, with eleven of
+the people, jumped overboard, in order to swim ashore, with three casks of
+water, in which attempt James Greenham was drowned in the surf off the
+shore: The sea-breeze coming on, prevented the people getting on board the
+same night; therefore, on Wednesday morning, it being then calm, they
+brought to the beach the casks filled with water, with seal and other
+provisions in great quantities, which we hauled on board. The boatswain,
+carpenter, Lieutenant Ewers, and three of the people, swam off, but the
+sea-breeze coming in, and the surf rising, the rest were discouraged from
+coming off; we hauled a good birth off the shore, where we lay the
+remainder of the day, and all the night. The greatness of the sea broke off
+our rudder-head, and we expected every minute the vessel would founder at
+her anchor. Thursday morning we saw no probability of the people coming
+aboard, and the wind coming out of the sea, and not one stick of fire-wood
+in the vessel to dress our victuals, and it being every man's opinion that
+we must put to sea or perish, we got up a scuttled cask, and put into it
+all manner of necessaries, with four small arms lashed to the cask, and a
+letter to acquaint them of our danger, which cask we saw them receive, as
+also the letter that was in it; they then fell on their knees, and made
+signals wishing us well, at which we got under sail, and left our brethren,
+whose names are under-mentioned,
+
+Sign'd by
+Robert Beans, lieutenant
+John King, boatswain
+John Bulkeley, gunner
+Thomas Clark, master
+John Cummins, carpenter
+Robert Elliot, surgeon's mate
+John Jones, master's mate
+John Snow, ditto.
+
+
+The names of the people left on shore in the latitude of 35' 25 S.
+longitude 65: 00 W.
+
+
+    Names.        Where born.
+
+Guy Broadwater,   Blackwall.
+John Duck,        London.
+Samuel Cooper,    Ipswich.
+Benjamin Smith,   Southwark.
+Joseph Clinch,    Ditto.
+John Allen,       Gosport.
+John Andrews,     Manchester.
+Isaac Morris,     Topsham."
+
+
+Those people had a good prospect of getting provisions, and we believe
+inhabitants are not far off; they have all necessaries for shooting; we
+hope to see them again, but at present we leave them to the care of
+Providence and the wide world. At noon sailed hence, at four in the
+afternoon could not clear the land, and were obliged to anchor in five
+fathom, two leagues from the shore, the northmost point of land bore N.E.
+by N. and the southmost point S. by W. Hard gales at E.N.E. and a great
+sea. At noon in latitude 38: 00.
+
+Friday the 15th, fresh gales at N.N.W. and a great sea tumbling into the
+bay. We are not able to ride it out, therefore, at four in the afternoon,
+got under sail, and stood off to sea; the southmost land bore S.W. by S.
+distant five leagues.
+
+Monday the 18th, in the latitude of 36: 29 S. the north point of
+Freshwater-Bay bearing S.W. distant forty-four leagues, we went to an
+allowance of water, at a pint a man per day, having on board not above
+twenty gallons for thirty-three souls.
+
+Tuesday the 19th, little wind at S. and clear weather. At four this morning
+saw breakers right a-head; sounded, and found five fathom; saw the land
+making like an island, bearing N.E. by E. distant twelve leagues; steered
+N. for about a mile or two, shoaled the water from two fathom to nine feet,
+then steer'd N.N.E. and deepen'd the water to five fathom. By the
+appearance of the land, we are well up the river of Plate, and do take the
+breakers for the English bank. Steer'd and sail'd all day E.N.E. along
+shore, in the evening anchor'd in a fine sandy bay; saw two men coming down
+on horseback, the boatswain swam ashore, and got up behind one of them, and
+rode away to their caravans. When we made the land, we had not one drop of
+water on board: Several people swam ashore to fill water, one of 'em, when
+ashore, drank very plentifully of water; in attempting to come off, was so
+weak, that he could not reach the vessel, but was unfortunately drown'd.
+Got one cask of water aboard, which reviv'd us exceedingly.
+
+Wednesday the 20th, Mr Cummins and myself went ashore, four of the
+inhabitants came down to us on horseback. As I could talk Portugueze, I
+fell into discourse with them. They told me the English were still at war
+with the Spaniards, that they had two fifty-gun ships up the river of
+Plate, and one sixty gun ship cruizing off Cape St Mary's; and not above
+six weeks ago a seventy gun ship lying at anchor, parted from her anchors
+and drove on shore; that the ship was lost, and every man perish'd. They
+also told me they were Spaniards, Castilians, and fishermen, that they came
+here a fishing, the fish they took they salted and dried, then sold them at
+Buenos Aires. The town they belong'd to they called Mount de Vidia, two
+days journey from hence. I ask'd 'em how they came to live in the king of
+Portugal's land. They said there were a great many Spanish settlements on
+this side, and gave us an invitation to their caravan; we got up behind
+them, and rode about a mile to it, where they entertained us with good junk
+beef, roasted and boyl'd, with good white bread. We sought to buy some
+provisions of 'em, but they had none but twenty-six loaves, about as big as
+two-penny loaves in England, which they would not part with under four
+guineas. We being in a weak condition, scarce able to stand on our legs,
+and without bread for a long time, gave them their price. Their patron told
+us at the same time, if it should be known that they had supplied us, they
+should be all hang'd. He promis'd, if we would give him a fire-lock, he
+would get us some wild fowl, and as many ducks in an hour or two as would
+serve all the people on board. Mr Cummins sent for his fire-lock, and gave
+it him, with some powder and sluggs. On our coming away, finding one of
+their company missing with a horse, we were apprehensive of his being gone
+to betray us; therefore immediately went on board, got our water in, and
+made all ready for sailing to Rio Grand.
+
+Thursday the 21st, little wind at N.W. and fair weather. At four this
+morning got under sail, steered E.N.E. At twelve saw low land stretch off
+to the eastward, which bore E. by S. At four the tide of flood flowing
+strong in obliged us to come to an anchor in a large bay, in eight fathom
+water; the south point bore S.S.W. the east point E.S.E.; at eight at night
+got under sail, steering E.S.E.
+
+Friday the 22d, little wind at N. and fair weather. At eight this morning
+saw Cape St Mary's, bearing N.W. distant ten leagues; at noon it bore
+W.S.W. and the north land S.E. by E.
+
+Sunday 23d, little wind, and calm. In the morning, not seeing the land,
+steer'd in N.; at noon saw Cape St Mary's, bearing N.W. distant ten
+leagues; latitude per observation 34: 53 S. At seven in the evening, being
+in shore and calm, anchored in fourteen fathom water, sandy ground, the
+cape bearing W. by N. and the northmost land N. by E. This day departed
+this life Mr Thomas Clark the master, as did also his son the day
+following.
+
+Sunday the 24th, the wind at S. and hazy weather. At two in the morning
+weighed and came to sail, steering N.E. within a league of the shore. At
+three in the afternoon saw three islands, the northmost of which is the
+most remarkable one I ever beheld, appearing like a church with a lofty
+tower; at four we saw three islands more, steer'd N. quarter W. between
+those islands, until we saw the main land. The most remarkable of these
+islands is about four miles from the main; they are all steep. At eight
+anchored in fourteen fathom, fine sand.
+
+Monday the 25th, a fresh gale at E.N.E. and cloudy weather. At nine this
+morning got under sail, in order to go back to those islands to get some
+seal, there being great numbers on the rocks, and we in great want of
+provision, with the wind against us. We took the opportunity of the wind
+back to the islands, but were disappointed; being not able to get ashore
+for provisions, came to an anchor in fourteen fathom, sandy ground. Hard
+gales at N.N.E. with thunder, lightning and rain, all night.
+
+Tuesday the 26th, this morning moderate gales at N.W. and fair weather, got
+under sail; after clear of the islands, steer'd N.E. by N. keeping along
+shore: It is a fine level land, and regular soundings fifteen fathom, five
+leagues off the land. We have no seal, nor any other kind of food on board.
+We have a fair wind, and not far from our desired port; so that we are in
+pretty good spirits. This day died the oldest man belonging to us, Thomas
+Maclean, cook, aged 82 years.
+
+Wednesday the 27th, moderate gales at W. steered N. and sail'd all day
+within a cable's length of the shore in three fathom water. We have now
+nothing but a little water to support nature. At noon had an observation,
+latitude in 32: 40 south: I reckon myself 18 leagues from the Rio Grand,
+and hope to see it in the morning.
+
+Thursday the 28th, kept the shore close aboard, and sounded every half
+hour, not caring to go within three fathom, nor keep without five, sailing
+along by the lead all night. At six in the morning saw the opening of the
+river Grand; kept within the breakers of the bar, having at some times not
+above seven feet water at half flood; steer'd N.E. by E. until the river's
+mouth was fairly open; then steer'd N. and N.N.W. until abreast of the
+town; anchored on the east shore in two fathom water. There presently came
+a boat from the shore, with a serjeant of the army, and one soldier. The
+lieutenant, myself, and Mr Cummins, with Captain P----n of the land forces,
+went on shore with them. The commandant, the officers, and people of the
+place, receiv'd us in a most tender and friendly manner. They instantly
+sent on board to the people four quarters of beef, and two bags of Farine
+bread. We were conducted to the surgeon's house, the handsomest habitation
+in the place, where we were most hospitably entertain'd. At four in the
+afternoon the governor came to town; After a strict enquiry into our
+misfortunes, and the reasons of our coming into this port, being somewhat
+doubtful that we might be inspectors of their coast, he began to examine
+me, the lieutenant having reported me to him as pilot. He ask'd me if there
+was a chart of the coast on board; and, if not, how it was possible we
+could hit the bar, and venture into so hazardous a place as this is? I told
+him, as for a chart, we had none of any kind, but I had a good observation
+the day before, that our vessel drew but a small draught of water, that we
+kept a lead always going, and in the necessity we were in, we were oblig'd,
+at all events, to venture, and if we had not seen the opening of the river
+before night, we must have been compell'd to run the vessel ashore. He
+examin'd me also concerning the places we stopt at, from Cape Virgin Mary
+to this port, and more particularly relating to the river Plate. He was
+very nice in his enquiry of our putting in at Cape St Mary's, and of the
+bearings and distance along shore from thence to this port. When he
+thoroughly satisfy'd himself, he embraced us and blest himself to think of
+our deliverance, which he term'd a miracle. He offer'd every thing the
+country could afford to our relief; the sick were order'd to be taken care
+of in the hospital: He took the lieutenant and the land officers home with
+him, and desired the commandant to see that the rest of the officers and
+people wanted for nothing. Before he went he inform'd us, that his
+majesty's ships the Severn and Pearl were at Rio Janeiro, in great
+distress; that they had sent to England for men, and could not sail from
+thence until the arrival of the Flota, which would be in May or June. He
+also told us, that we should be dispatch'd in the first vessel which
+arriv'd in this port, for he did not think we could with safety go any
+farther in our own, and that there could not be found twelve seamen in the
+Brazils that would venture over the bar in her to sail to Rio Janeiro;
+therefore he order'd our little Speedwell ashore: This wonder the people
+are continually flocking to see; and it is now about nine months since we
+were cast away in the Wager; in which time, I believe, no mortals have
+experienc'd more difficulties and miseries than we have. This day may be
+justly stiled the day of our deliverance, and ought to be remember'd
+accordingly.
+
+Sunday the 31st, little or nothing remarkable since the day we came in,
+only a wonderful change in our diet, live on the best the country can
+produce, and have plenty of every thing. This afternoon the governor,
+commandant, and commissary, came on board, to see our little Speedwell;
+they were surpriz'd that thirty souls, the number of people now living,
+could be stowed in so small a vessel; but that she could contain the number
+which first embark'd with us was to them amazing, and beyond all belief:
+They could not conceive how the man at the helm could steer without falling
+overboard, there not being above four inches rise from the deck. I told
+them he sat down, and clapp'd his feet against the rise, and show'd them in
+what manner we secured ourselves. The governor, after viewing the vessel
+over, told us, we were more welcome to him in the miserable condition we
+arriv'd than if we had brought all the wealth in the world with us. At the
+same time he fully assur'd us, we should be supply'd with every thing that
+the country could afford; that he would dispatch us the first opportunity
+to Rio Janeiro, and whenever we stood in need of any thing, he order'd us
+to acquaint the commandant, and our wants should be instantly supply'd. He
+then took leave of us, and wished us well. All the deference and dutiful
+respect we could shew him, to express a grateful sense of his favour, was
+by manning the vessel, and giving him three cheers. The next day arriv'd at
+this place the brigadier-governor of the island St Catharine; he came close
+by our vessel, we mann'd her, and gave him three cheers. The soldiers of
+the garrison, having twenty months arrears due to them, expected the
+brigadier was coming to pay them, but when they found themselves
+disappointed, they made a great disturbance among themselves. I apply'd to
+the commandant for a house, the vessel, in rainy weather, not being fit to
+live in; he order'd me one joining to his own, and gave me the key. I took
+with me Mr Cummins, Mr Jones, Mr Snow, Mr Oakley, and the cooper; we
+brought our trifling necessaries on shore, and remov'd to our new
+habitation: Here we were dry and warm, and though we had no bedding, we
+lodg'd very comfortably. Since the loss of the Wager, we have been used to
+lie hard; at present we think ourselves very happily fix'd, and heartily
+wish that all the persons who surviv'd the loss of the ship were in so good
+a situation as ourselves.
+
+Tuesday, February the 2d, 1741-2, great murmurings among the soldiers; they
+detain'd the brigadier from going back, as he intended, this morning, till
+he promis'd to dispatch the money, cloaths, and provisions, and to see
+their grievances adjusted. On those terms they have agreed he shall go; and
+this evening he return'd for St Catharine's. We apprehended, till now, that
+the right officers were in place; but we find ourselves mistaken. Some time
+before we arrived here, there was an insurrection among the soldiers: Their
+design was against the governor; but by his address, and fair promises of
+seeing them righted, he diverted the storm from himself, and got himself
+continued in his station, as were also the major and commissary. The
+soldiers dismiss'd the rest of the officers, and supply'd their places with
+their own people; though they were lately private men, they appear'd very
+grand, and were not distinguish'd in dress from proper officers. The
+disturbance at Rio Grand is of no service to us, for we feel the effects of
+it, our allowance is now so small that it will hardly support nature, the
+people have been without Farina, which is their bread, for some days past.
+We apply'd to the governor, who promis'd to supply us the next day;
+accordingly we went for a supply, which created fresh murmurings among the
+soldiers; however we got a small quantity of bread to supply us for ten
+days. The store-keeper shew'd me all the provisions, which, considering
+there were a thousand to draw their subsistence from it, was a small stock
+indeed, and not above six weeks at the present allowance. He told me we
+were serv'd equally with the soldiers, and when more stores came, which
+they shortly expected, our allowance should be encreas'd. I think, in
+reason, this is as much as we can expect. The lieutenant not coming nigh us
+since our first landing, I went with the people up to him at the
+governor's, about two miles from this port, to endeavour to prevail with
+him to get us dispatch'd, acquainting him of the call and necessity there
+was for our assistance on board the two distress'd ships at Rio Janeiro. He
+said he had spoke to the governor, and could not get us dispatch'd till
+another vessel came in. I told him, as the garrison were in want of
+provisions, what we were living on here would carry us off, and if any
+misfortune should attend the vessel expected in with the provisions, we
+should be put very hard to it for a subsistence. He promis'd to acquaint
+the governor; on which I took my leave.
+
+February the 17th, this evening came into this garrison three seamen,
+giving an account of their belonging to a vessel with provisions and stores
+for this place, from Rio Janeiro, that they had been from thence three
+months, and had been off the bar waiting an opportunity to come in; that
+not having any fresh water aboard, they were oblig'd to come to an anchor
+ten leagues to the southward of this port, that a canoe was sent with those
+three men to fill the water, but the wind coming in from the sea, and
+blowing hard, oblig'd the vessel to put to sea, and leave them ashore, from
+whence they travelled here, and believ'd the vessel was gone to St
+Catharine's. The governor, not satisfy'd with this report, took them for
+spies, and kept them as such. However, in a day or two afterwards, he
+dispatch'd a pilot and two seamen for the island St Catharine, to bring the
+vessel round, in case she should be there.
+
+I took this opportunity of sending a letter by them to the Honourable
+Captain Murray, commander of his majesty's ship the Pearl, at Rio Janeiro;
+desiring them to order it to be dispatch'd by the first ship from St
+Catharine's to the Rio Janeiro.
+
+
+"Honourable Sir,
+
+"I take it as a duty incumbent on me to acquaint you that his majesty's
+ship the Wager was wrecked on a desolate island on the coast of Patagonia,
+in the latitude of 47 00 S. and W. longitude from the meridian of London 81
+30, on the 14th of May, 1741. After lengthening the longboat, and fitting
+her in the best manner we could, launched her on the 13th of October, and
+embarked and sailed, on the 14th, with the barge and cutter, to the number
+of eighty-one souls in all. Captain Cheap,--at his own request, tarried
+behind, with Lieutenant Hamilton, and Mr Elliot, the surgeon. After a long
+and fatiguing passage, coming through the Streights of Magellan, we arrived
+here the 28th of January, 1741-2, bringing into this port alive to the
+number of thirty, viz.
+
+Robert Beans, lieutenant
+John Bulkeley, gunner
+John Cummins, carpenter
+Robert Elliot, surgeon's mate
+John Jones, master's mate
+John Snow, ditto
+John Mooring, boatswain's mate
+John Young, cooper
+William Oram, carpenter's crew
+John King, boatswains
+Nicholas Griselham, seaman
+Samuel Stook, ditto
+James Mac Cawlo, ditto
+William Lane, ditto
+John Montgomery, ditto
+John George, ditto
+Richard East, ditto
+James Butler, ditto
+John Pitman, ditto
+Job Barns, seaman
+John Shoreham, ditto
+Thomas Edmunds, ditto
+Richard Powell, ditto
+Diego Findall, (the Portugueze boy).
+Captain Robert Pemberton, of his majesty's
+  land forces
+Lieutenants Ewers and Fielding, ditto
+Vincent Oakley, surgeon of ditto
+And two marines.
+
+All which are living at present, and waiting an opportunity of a passage in
+a Portugueze vessel, our own not being in a condition to proceed any
+farther, having no sails, and being so bad in all other respects, that the
+governor will not suffer us to hazard our lives in her, but hath promised
+to dispatch us in the very first vessel that arrives in this port, where
+we, with impatience, are obliged to tarry. We humbly pay our duty to
+Captain Leg, praying the representation of this to him. From, Most
+honourable Sir, Yours, &c."
+
+
+Saturday the 20th, last night the three seamen which came here, as
+mention'd before, with five more of this place, attempted to run away with
+one of the large boats; but they were pursu'd and taken: Their design was
+for the river Plate, the wind then favouring them. This was evident, that
+the governor was right in his conjecture, and did not suspect them
+wrongfully; they are now prisoners in the guard-house. The next morning I
+went to the lieutenant, desiring him to apply to the governor for a pass
+and horses for myself, Mr Cummins, and John Young, to go by land to St
+Catharine's and St Francisco, where we need not doubt of a passage to his
+majesty's distress'd ships at Rio Janeiro: That it was our duty to hasten
+to their assistance: That he, the lieutenant, ought, the very day after our
+arrival into this port, without any regard to expence and charges, to have
+dispatch'd a special messenger by land, and then we might have been assur'd
+of a vessel before now. The lieutenant answer'd, he had a thought of
+enquiring at first coming about what I had mention'd, and of going himself,
+tho' it cost him fifty pounds; but he was inform'd it was impossible to go
+by land. I ask'd him, If so how came the brigadier from St Catharine's
+here? As for fatigue or trouble, whoever undertook to go, he must expect
+that; but there was no hardship to be encounter'd comparable to what we had
+already undergone. We lay here on expence to the king, without doing any
+service, and run the hazard of not only losing the opportunity of getting
+on board our own ships, but perhaps of missing the Flota, and of wintering
+here, therefore I begg'd he would entreat the governor to let us have
+horses and guides; which he promis'd to mention to the governor at dinner,
+and send me his answer in the afternoon without fail. I waited with
+impatience for this answer; but the lieutenant failing in his promise, was
+the occasion of my sending him this letter.
+
+
+"Sir,
+
+"I am sorry you should give me the liberty of telling you, you have not
+discharg'd your promise, by letting us know the governor's answer to what
+we requested: Which was, at our expence and charge, to go to the assistance
+of his majesty's ships at Rio Janeiro; since which time I am to inform you
+that we are in want of provision, having none of any kind allow'd us
+yesterday, and but one small fish per man for two days before. The meaning
+of which, I believe, is owing to you, by the endeavouring, through the
+persuasions of the persons you confide in, to blacken us, and in so vile a
+manner, that you seem unacquainted with the ill consequence, which may
+attend the touching a man's character. We know, and are fully convinced,
+from what has been done already, that nothing will be allow'd or granted us
+but by your means: Mr Cummins and myself ask no favour from you, but to use
+your endeavours to get us dispatches to the ships at Rio Janeiro, where
+every man must give account of his actions, and justice take place. If I am
+not mistaken, you told me that what we were supply'd with here was a bounty
+flowing from the generous spirit of the governor, and the gentlemen of the
+place. If this be the case, we ought to be very thankful indeed. I am
+surprized, sir, you don't see the grievances of the inhabitants here, and
+hear the soldiers murmurings for want of their arrears. If they should
+revolt at this juncture, we shall stand a very bad chance. I must acquaint
+you, sir, the vessel we came in is not so much out of repair, but that, if
+you can get canvas out of the store for sails, we can make 'em, and get
+ready for sailing in ten days time. And if the vessel expected here with
+supplies comes in a shorter time, our vessel will be ready fix'd for the
+use of the governor; and if one vessel should not be large enough to carry
+us all off, we can go in company. I imagine you know of the stores being
+robbed, and the disturbance among the soldiers, which must occasion
+uneasiness enough, without repeating grievances, where relief is not to be
+had. I beg, sir, you'll get us dispatch'd with all expedition to his
+majesty's service, that we may not lose the opportunity of joining the two
+ships and the Flota.
+
+Sir, yours."
+
+
+The next morning the lieutenant came down on horseback, being the first
+time of his appearing among us since we have been here, which is above
+three weeks; we went with him to the commandant, who promised we should not
+want fresh beef and fish, but as for bread there is none to be got. William
+Oram, one of the carpenter's crew, died this day in the hospital.
+
+March the 6th, for several days the people very uneasy at the vessel's not
+arriving, the wind having been fair for above three weeks past, and little
+or no provisions in store, which makes them doubtful of any to be
+dispatch'd to their relief. This day we are resolv'd to go by land, if the
+governor will only allow us a guide; we acquainted the lieutenant with our
+resolution; he went with me and Mr Jones to the governor, we obtain'd leave
+to go, with the promise of a guide. Captain Pemberton, being at the
+governor's, desired to go with us; the governor told him the journey was so
+difficult and tedious, it would be impossible for him to encounter with it.
+The captain answer'd, that he had a company on board his majesty's ship the
+Severn, where his duty call'd him, and was determin'd, with the governor's
+leave, to share his fate with us by land, which was granted. The governor
+told us, notwithstanding the present scarcity of provisions in the place,
+that he had so great a regard for an Englishman, that whilst he had any
+thing for himself, we should not want, for which we thank'd him heartily.
+This governor is certainly a gentleman of a noble generous spirit, of
+exceeding humanity and goodness, and I believe him to have a sincere regard
+for an Englishman.
+
+March the 9th, this morning Mr Jones went over with me to the north side,
+to make an agreement for six people to go to St Catharine's; while we were
+here, the governor received letters from St Catharine's, which gave an
+account of four vessels on their passage for this port; on the news of this
+we put by our journey: It was very lucky we had not set out on this journey
+before we heard the news; for on the nineteenth, the vessels for Rio
+Janeiro arrived, and brought an account that the Severn and Pearl were
+sail'd from thence for the island of Barbadoes. Those vessels not only
+brought the soldiers provisions, but also a pardon.
+
+On the 20th, the brigadier arriv'd, and had all the soldiers drawn up,
+where their pardon was read to them: He acquainted them with what money was
+come, which was not above a third part of their arrears, but the remainder
+was on the passage. The money he had for them should be paid directly, as
+far as it would go, if they would take it; but they cry'd out with one
+voice, The whole or none, and a great disturbance there was, some was for
+revolting to the king of Spain, some began to change their notes, and were
+for taking part of the money, and the rest insisted upon the whole. To
+quell this disturbance, the commandant, whom they look'd upon more than the
+brigadier, or the governor, used his utmost endeavours. They told the
+commandant they were no longer soldiers than while they were in the king's
+pay, and let those who are for the king, draw off one way by themselves;
+you are our commander, we trust in you to answer for us, what you do we
+will stand by with our lives: On which the commandant deliver'd his command
+up, shouldering his firelock, and took the place of a common soldier,
+telling them, since the king was so good as to pardon them, he thought it
+his duty to accept it. The brigadier was so well pleased with the behaviour
+of the commandant, that he ran to him, took him in his arms, and embraced
+him: The rest of the soldiers follow'd the example of their late
+commandant, delivering their respective commands up to their proper
+officers. This day put an end to the disturbance and confusion which had
+been some time among them, and restor'd them to tranquillity, good
+discipline, and order.
+
+March the 22d, this morning went to the lieutenant for leave to go in the
+first vessel, which was expected to sail in four days time: He told me he
+expected to go in her himself, and that we could not go off all in one
+vessel, there might be room for the officers, but the people must wait
+another opportunity. I told him that it was a duty incumbent on the
+officers that were in pay particularly to take care of the people; You,
+sir, have been sure of half-pay ever since the ship was lost; we are not,
+but I will tarry myself behind with the people, and be answerable for them,
+if you'll give me a note under your hand to secure me the value of my pay,
+from the loss of the ship, otherwise I don't know any business I have but
+to endeavour to get to England as soon as I can, and will put it out of
+your power to prevent my going off in the first vessel. I left the
+lieutenant, and went with Mr Cummins, Mr Jones, Mr Snow, M. King, and Dr
+Oakley to the governor, to obtain leave for our going, the lieutenant
+follow'd us, and said, but one half could go at a time. The governor told
+us it was order'd that the land-officers, myself and the rest that apply'd
+to go by land, should be the first dispatch'd, and might go on board when
+we would, but as the vessel did not belong to the king, we must buy
+provisions, and pay for our passage. I said, Sir, we have not money to
+answer the expence: He then ask'd me whether I had not several times
+apply'd to him for leave to go by land at my own charges? I answer'd, We
+were obliged to dispose of our watches to raise that money, which will
+barely be sufficient to carry us six off that intended to go by land,
+therefore what must become of the rest who have not a single penny? And I
+hope, sir, that you are not unacquainted that the king of Great-Britain
+allows to all his subjects, distress'd in this manner, five vintins per day
+to each man for subsistence. On my saying this, the governor call'd the
+commissary and major: He walk'd and talk'd with them aside; then came back
+again, and told us the account was so small, that it was not worth charging
+the king of England with it; therefore we must buy our own provisions, and
+pay our passage, and as to what we had received from them, we were welcome;
+upon which we thank'd them and came away. We then consulted with the
+lieutenant, to know what could be done with the people, and that as the
+vessel we came in was not fit to proceed any farther, it was to no purpose
+to leave her there; therefore we desired his consent to sell her, believing
+the money she would bring would be sufficient to carry us all off. To this
+proposal the lieutenant consented. We then apply'd to the master of the
+vessel, to know what he would have for our passage; his demand was forty
+shillings per man, of which we acquainted the lieutenant, who told us he
+could not see what we could do, and, on second consideration, would not
+give his consent to sell the boat, for when sold, he did not think she
+would fetch the money. Those words of the lieutenant put us all to a stand,
+especially after he had but now given his consent to sell her, and in so
+short time to declare the reverse was very odd; tho' indeed it did not much
+surprise us, because this gentleman was never known to be over stedfast to
+his word. Seeing no possibility of carrying the people off without selling
+the boat, I told the lieutenant, if he left them behind, I could not think
+but so many of his majesty's subjects were sold, and believ'd he had made a
+present of the vessel to the governor. At this the lieutenant paus'd for a
+while, and then said, he had not money to carry himself off without selling
+his coat. I reply'd, There was no occasion for that, when he had a gold
+watch. The next morning went to the lieutenant again about our going off;
+he acquainted us, that the brigadier had order'd things in another manner;
+that myself, and nine more, being the persons desirous of going, should be
+dispatch'd in the first vessel, and every thing found us; that he, the
+lieutenant, was to tarry behind with the rest of the people, and to come in
+the next vessel, an estimate of the charges being made out; and he also
+told us, he had a severe check for requesting to go first himself, and
+offering to leave the people behind.
+
+Sunday, March 28th, I embark'd on board the St Catharine's brigantine, with
+the carpenter, boatswain, the two mates, the surgeon of marines, the
+cooper, and six of the people, the provisions laid in for us were two casks
+of salt beef and ten alcadoes of farina.
+
+Wednesday the 31st, we sail'd for Rio Janeiro, with the wind at W., steer'd
+S.E. and S.E. by E., until over the bar; then E. by N., and E.N.E., with a
+fine gale, and clear weather; there is not above two fathom and half water
+on the bar at high-water; when you are in, it is a fine commodious harbour
+for small vessels; it is a low land, of a sandy soil: Here is abundance of
+fine cattle, with fresh-water fish, melons exceeding good, plenty of water,
+and the best milk I ever tasted.
+
+Thursday, April the 8th, little wind at S.W., and fair weather. At ten this
+morning anchor'd before the town of St Sebastians. The Portugueze pilots,
+who have been in England, call the land here the Isle of Wight; and indeed
+it is very like it, tho' not so large, being only eight miles in length.
+This is a very secure harbour for shipping; a stranger may go in or out
+without any difficulty. At this place I was ashore, and think it as
+delightful and pleasant a place as ever I saw in America, abounding with
+fruit, as oranges, lemons, bonanoes; also with yams, potatoes, fish, and
+fowl.
+
+Saturday the 10th, sail'd from St Sebastians, little wind at S.W., steer'd
+out S.E. between the island and the main; at eight in the morning, on the
+Monday following, we anchor'd before the city of Rio Janeiro.
+
+Tuesday the 13th, this morning we were all order'd before the governor. A
+Dutch surgeon was sent for, who spoke very good English. After enquiring
+into our misfortunes, the governor order'd him to be our consul, telling
+us, that we should have a convenient house, with firing, and eight vintins
+a man per day subsistence-money: He also desir'd we might make no
+disturbance among ourselves, which we promis'd to avoid. A nobleman went
+with the consul to look out for our habitation; they fix'd on a large
+magnificent house, fit for a person of quality. This being the first day of
+our coming ashore, they were pleas'd to order a dinner and supper out of
+doors, and sent us where we were to eat all together. This was the first
+time of the boatswain's eating with the rest of the officers since we left
+Cheap island. The consul was so kind as to send us a table, benches, and
+water-pots, and several useful things, from his own house; we thought
+ourselves very happily seated.
+
+Wednesday the 14th, this morning the consul went with the officers and
+people to the treasury for our money. Mr Oakely, surgeon of his majesty's
+land-forces, was desired by the consul to sign for it. The boatswain, who
+now look'd upon himself as our captain, was not a little displeas'd at
+this. When the money was receiv'd, the consul would have given it to the
+surgeon to pay us, but he excus'd himself, telling the consul the boatswain
+was a troublesome man, and it might occasion a disturbance, on which the
+consul was so good as to come and pay it himself. Being all together, he
+told us the governor had order'd us eight vintins a man per day; but at the
+same time had made a distinction between the officers and seamen, that the
+money received was to be paid in the manner following, viz. to the seamen
+six vintins per man, and the officers ten. The reason of this distinction
+was, that the seamen could go to work, when the officers could not, but
+must be oblig'd to live entirely on their allowance. This distinction
+caused great uneasiness, the boatswain insisting that the people had a
+right to an equal share with us. The officers, willing to make all things
+easy, desir'd the consul it might be so. The consul reply'd, The money
+should be dispos'd of according to the governor's direction, or not at all.
+The boatswain then objected against the cooper, because he was no officer.
+The consul said, Master! I believe the cooper to be a very good quiet man,
+and I dare say will take it as the men do, but sooner than this be an
+objection, I will pay the money out of my own pocket. The boatswain then
+began at me, abusing me in a very scandalous and abominable manner, saying,
+among other things, that the cooper was got among the rest of the pirates,
+for so he term'd me and the rest of the officers. When the money was paid,
+we acquainted the consul, that we had, till now, been separated from the
+boatswain, that he was of so perverse and turbulent a temper, and so
+abusive in speech, that we could not bear with him. The boatswain then
+chose to be with the people, and gave us the preference of the fore-room,
+where we desir'd to be by ourselves. There were two doors to our room, we
+lock'd both of them, and went to take a walk in the country: At our return,
+in the evening, we found the doors broke open, and a small sword belonging
+to me was broke an inch off the point, and the scabbard all in pieces. The
+boatswain had in his room an Irishman, whom he sent in on purpose to
+quarrel with us. This Irishman and Richard East, one of our own people,
+fell upon the cooper and me: East chose to engage with me, he struck me
+several times, he compelled me to stand in my own defence, and I soon
+master'd him. During this quarrel the carpenter call'd the guards, at the
+sight of whom the Irishman made his escape. I desir'd the guards to secure
+East a prisoner, but the officer told me he could not, unless I would go to
+prison with him. I told him it was my desire, and accordingly I went. The
+prison was in the governor's house. I had not been there but a few minutes
+before the governor sent for me; he enquir'd of the officer concerning the
+disturbance, and order'd me to my habitation, but detain'd East a prisoner.
+When I came home I found the boatswain and two renegadoes with him, all
+about the cooper. On seeing me, he repeated his former abusive words. He
+made us so uneasy in our lodging, that, to prevent murder, we were obliged
+to lie out of the house. Next morning Mr Oakley and Mr Cummins went to the
+consul; he came with them to the house, where we were all sent for; he told
+us it was very strange that people who had undergone so many hardships and
+difficulties could not agree lovingly together. We answer'd, we never used
+to mess together, and sooner than we would be with the boatswain, we would
+make it our choice to take a house in the country at our own expence. The
+boatswain, on hearing this, fell again into his usual strain of slander and
+abusive language, calling us rogues, villains, and pirates. It was the
+governor's first request that we might have no disturbance among us, yet
+the boatswain hath not suffer'd us to have a quiet minute since we have
+been here. The consul went with us two miles out of the city, at a fishing
+village, where we took a house at our own expence, to pay at the rate of
+ten shillings per month, there being seven of us in all, viz. myself, the
+carpenter, surgeon, the two mates, the cooper, and a seaman. Here we
+thought ourselves safe and secure. The next day, in the afternoon, two of
+the boatswain's friends, which had lately deserted from his majesty's
+service, and an Irish clerk with them, came to pay us a visit. They were so
+impertinent, as not only to enquire into the reasons of the disturbance
+among ourselves, but they also instructed us in our duty, telling us, they
+came from our commander the boatswain, with orders to see my journal. I
+told them the journal shou'd not be a secret to any person who cou'd read;
+but, at the same time, I wou'd never part with it to be copied out: They
+then drank a glass of punch with us, and left us. This is a place that a
+man is oblig'd sometimes to suffer himself to be used ill; if he resents
+all affronts, he runs a great hazard of losing his life, for here ruffians
+are to be hir'd at a small expence, and there is no place in the world
+where people will commit murder at so cheap a rate. Between nine and ten at
+night three people came to our door, one of which knock'd, telling us, that
+he was the person that was with me and the cooper in the afternoon. Being
+apprehensive that they came with no good intent, we refus'd opening the
+door, telling them, that it was an improper season of the night, and that
+we did not know they had any business with us, if they had, we told them to
+come in the morning: But they still insisted upon the door being open'd,
+saying, it would be better to do so than to be taken away in three hours'
+time. When they had said this, they went away. We did not know the meaning
+of their words, but imagin'd they were gone to bring some associates to
+beset the house; having nothing to defend ourselves with, we got over the
+back wall of the house, and took to the country for safety: In the morning
+apply'd to the consul, who remov'd us to a house in the midst of the
+village; he gave an account to the inhabitants of the design the boatswain
+had formed against us, either to compel us to deliver up the journal, or to
+take our lives; and therefore desir'd that the journal and papers might be
+deposited in the hands of a neighbour there, till the time of our going
+off. The people of the place offer'd to stand by us with their lives, in
+opposition to any persons who should attempt to do us an injury.
+
+Sunday the 18th, early this morning we were sent for to the consul. He said
+to us, Gentlemen, as the lives of three of you are in danger, and I do not
+know what villainy your boatswain may be capable of acting, in regard to
+your peace and safety, I'll endeavour to get you three on board a ship
+bound for Bahia and Lisbon; accordingly he went to the captain of the ship,
+who consented that we should go with him, on these conditions, that the
+governor should give us a pass, and that we would work for our passage;
+this we agreed to. After this we requested the governor for a pass, which
+he was so good as to grant, and is as follows:
+
+
+Nas Fortalesas sedeixem passar.
+
+_A 30 Abril_, 1742.
+
+Podem passar par Portugal em qualquer Nao que selle ofreser semque che
+ponha Impedimento algum Bahia, 19 Mayo, 1742.
+
+"Dizem Joan Bocli, e Joan Cummins, e Joan Menino, Inglezes de Nasao, e
+Cazados em Inglaterra, em quetem suas Mulleres e Fillios, que suedo
+Officais de Calafate, e Condestavel, & Joneiro, de imadas Fragatas
+Inglezas, dado a Costa de Patagonia, die fesivel a portarem, a Oporto de
+Rio Grande, donde selhedeo faculdade para passarem aesta Cidade. E como
+Naferma do Regimendo de son soberano Nao vensem soldo, algum desde otempo,
+que Nao Pagau detta Fragata, selhes las presis a passarem a Inglaterra,
+para poderem tratar de sua vida em Compania de suas familias; para oghe
+pretendem na Naude Lisensia passar a Citade da Bahia, para da hi Opoderem
+farer para Lisboa, na primera ocasio, que che for posivell, e sim desda Nao
+podem intentar dito transporte.
+
+Quaime sedigne dar che Lisensia que nas Fortalesas selhe nas ponha
+Impedimento a sua Passagein, Come e Costume aos Nacionaes decte Reyne.
+
+A. Rove."
+
+
+The foregoing in English thus.
+
+
+_Rio Janeiro Grand._
+
+From all the Forts let them pass.
+
+_April_ 30, 1742.
+
+That they may pass to Portugal in any vessel that offers itself, without
+any hindrance whatever, to Bahia, May 19, 1742.
+
+"John Bocli, [Bulkeley] John Cummins, and John Young, of the English
+nation, and married in England, where they have wives and children, the one
+being an officer, the other a carpenter, and the third cooper of the ship,
+being an English frigate, arrived on the coast of Patagonia; and at their
+arrival in the great river, i.e. Rio Grand, leave was granted them to come
+to this city; and as in the service of his majesty, they do not advance any
+money, from the time that they paid off the said ship, they are obliged to
+pass to England, that they may be enabled there to seek their livelihood
+for their respective families: Therefore they desire that they may pass in
+the license ship to the city of Bahia, that they may from thence go to
+Lisbon, by the first opportunity that shall offer; and that without the
+said ship they will not be able to perform their intended design.
+
+Leave is hereby granted them to pass by the said ship for Bahia; and we
+command all the forts to let them pass, and not hinder their passage, as is
+the custom of the nation of this kingdom.
+
+A. ROVE."
+
+
+The following is a copy of the solicitor's certificate.
+
+
+"ISTO he para que todos sabem que os Senhores Abaixo Nomeados y bem mal
+afortunados, nesta Cidade de Rio Janeiro se comporlarao com toda Dereysao
+nao dando escandalo Apesoa Alguma e Sao Dignos deque Joda pessoa posa os
+favoreser emoque for de Ajudo para Sigimento de sua Viagem omais breve
+possivel para Huropa.
+
+JOHN BULKELEY.
+JOHN CUMMINS.
+JOHN YOUNG.
+
+Hoje 1 de Mayo de 1742.
+
+A sim que Assiney este Papel Como Procu
+  rador Sosil da Nasao Britanica.
+          PEDRO HENRIQUES DELAED."
+
+
+In English thus.
+
+
+"These Presents.
+
+"Be it known to all persons, that the under-signed are in a deplorable
+condition in this city of Rio Janeiro; who have behaved themselves with
+decency and good decorum, not giving any scandal to any person whatsoever,
+and are worthy that all people may have compassion, and succour them in
+forwarding their voyage with all expedition to Europe.
+
+JOHN BULKELEY.
+JOHN CUMMINS.
+JOHN YOUNG.
+
+_The 1st of May_, 1742.
+
+I have sign'd this paper as a sollicitor of the British nation.
+
+PEDRO HENRIQ; DELAED."
+
+
+Tuesday, May the 20th, this evening myself, the carpenter, and cooper, went
+on board the St Tubes, one of the Brazil ships, carrying twenty-eight guns,
+Theophilus Orego Ferrara, commander, bound for Bahia and Lisbon. The people
+left on shore were,
+
+John Jones, Master's mate.
+John Snow, ditto.
+Vincent Oakley, surgeon.
+John King, boatswain.
+Samuel Stook, seaman.
+John Shoreham, ditto.
+John Pitman, ditto.
+Job Barns, ditto.
+Richard East, ditto.
+Richard Powell, ditto.
+
+Wednesday the 21st, early this morning the captain came on board, on seeing
+us, he ask'd us, how we came on board without his leave? Notwithstanding he
+gave leave to the consul for our passage, we ought to have waited on him
+ashore. There was on board the ship a Spanish don, a passenger, who told
+the captain, no Englishman should go in the same ship with him, therefore
+desir'd we might be turn'd ashore; but the captain insisted upon doing what
+he pleas'd on board his own ship, and would not comply with his request.
+The Spanish don, when we came to converse with him, was very much mov'd
+with the relation of our misfortunes, and said to us, though our royal
+masters, the king's of England and Spain, are at war, it was not our fault;
+that we were now on board a neutral ship; belonging to a king who was a
+friend to both nations; that he would not look upon us as enemies, but do
+us all the service he could. He extoll'd the conduct and bravery of Admiral
+Vernon at Porto Bello; but, above all, applauded him for his humanity and
+generous treatment of his enemies. He made great encomiums on the
+magnificence of the British fleet, and the boldness and intrepidity of the
+sailors, styling the English the soldiers of the sea. He supplied us in our
+passage not only with provisions from his table, but also with wine and
+brandy; and during the whole voyage appear'd so different from an enemy,
+that he took all opportunities of giving us proofs of his generosity and
+goodness.
+
+Friday, the 7th of May, 1742, this morning anchored before the city of
+Bahia, went on shore to the vice-roy, shew'd him the pass we had from the
+governor of Rio Janeiro: He told us the pass was to dispatch us to Lisbon,
+and that the first ship which sail'd from hence would be the ship we came
+in; we petition'd him for provisions, acquainting him of our reception at
+Rio Grand and Rio Janeiro, that we had hitherto been supply'd at the rate
+of eight vintins each man per day. He refused supplying us with any thing,
+upon which I told him, we had better been prisoners to the king of Spain,
+who would allow us bread and water, than in a friend's country to be
+starv'd. The captain of the ship we came in, hearing the vice-roy would not
+supply us, was so kind as to go with us to him, acquainting him how we were
+provided for at Rio Janeiro, and that he would supply us himself, if he
+would sign an account to satisfy the consul general at Lisbon, so that he
+might be reimburs'd. The vice-roy answer'd, he had no orders concerning the
+English; that he had letters from the king of Portugal his master to supply
+the French, but had no orders about any other nation, and if he gave us any
+thing it must be out of his own pocket, therefore he would not supply us.
+The captain then told him, that we were officers and subjects to the king
+of England, and in distress; that we did not want great matters, and only
+barely enough to support life, and begg'd that he would allow but four
+vintins per day, being but half the sum hitherto allow'd us. The captain's
+entreaties avail'd nothing, the vice-roy continuing as fix'd in his
+resolution of giving us no relief. I do not believe there ever was a worse
+representative of royalty upon the face of the earth than this vice-roy;
+his royal master, the king of Portugal, is very well known to have a
+grateful affection for the British nation (nor can we believe he is so
+Frenchify'd as this vice-roy makes him) his deputy differs greatly from
+him, he has given a proof of his aversion to the English. We think persons
+in the distress we were represented in to him, could in no part of the
+world, nay, in an enemy's country, be treated with more barbarity than we
+were here: We work'd here for our victuals, and then could get but one meal
+per day, which was farina and caravances. At this place we must have
+starv'd, if I had not by me some money and a silver watch of my own, which
+I was obliged to turn into money to support us. I had in money fourteen
+guineas, which I exchanged with the captain who brought us here for
+Portugueze money; he at the same time told me, it would be hard upon me to
+be so much out of pocket, and said, if I would draw a bill on the consul
+general at Lisbon for the sum, as if supplied from him, upon the payment of
+that bill, he would return me my fourteen guineas; accordingly a bill was
+drawn up by an English merchant at Bahia and sign'd by us, being as
+follows:
+
+
+"Nos abaixo asignados Joam Bulkeley, Joam Cummins, & Joam Young, Vassalos
+de sua Magg de Brittanica El Rey Jorge Segundo, declaramos que temos
+recebido da mam do Snor' Cappam de Mar e Guerra Theodorio Rodrigues de
+Faria a coanthia de Corenta eloatra Mil e Oito Centos reis em dinheiro
+decontado comque por varias vezes nos Secorreo para o Nosso Sustento des o
+dia 17 de Mayo proximo passado athe odia Prezente, por cuja caridade
+rogamos a Deos conceda mera saud Born succesto e por este pedimos humildeme
+te ao Snor' Consul Geral da Mesma Nacao que Aprezentado que este Seja nao'
+duvide em Mandar Sattis fazer as sobredito Snor' Cappam de Mar e Guerra a
+refferida coanthia visto ser expendida em Obra pia e que o Estado da nossa
+Mizeria epobreza tre nao' pode pagar e por passar na Verdade o Refferido e
+nao' sabermos Escrever pedimos a Gabriel Prynn homem de Negocio nesta
+Cidade e Interprete de Ambas as Lingoas ou Idosmas que este por Nos fizese
+e Como Testemunha Asignase.
+
+Sao 44 800 re. Bahia, 14 Setembro, 1742.
+
+JOHN BULKELEY.
+JOHN CUMMINS.
+JOHN YOUNG.
+
+Como Testsmunha que fix a rogo dos Sobreditos,
+GABRIEL PRYNN."
+
+
+The foregoing in English thus.
+
+
+"We, the undersign'd John Bulkeley, John Cummins, and John Young, subjects
+of his majesty King George the Second, King of Great Britain, do declare to
+have received from the honourable captain of sea and land, Theodore
+Rodriques of Faria, the sum of fourty-four thousand and eight hundred rees,
+in ready and lawful money, by different times, for our support and succour
+from the 17th of May instant, to this present date: And, for the said
+charily, we implore the Almighty to grant him health and prosperity. And on
+this account, we humbly desire the consul of the same nation, that, by
+these presents, he may not omit giving full satisfaction to the above-
+mention'd captain of sea and land, for the said sum, it being employed on a
+very charitable account, being in a deplorable condition, and not able to
+repay the same; and we not knowing in what manner to write, to acknowledge
+the above favours, have desired Mr Gabriel Prynn, a merchant in this city,
+and interpreter of both languages, that he may act for us; and we leave it
+to him to do in this affair as it shall seem meet unto him; and as a
+witness to this matter he hath sign'd his name.
+
+Say 44 100. Bahia, the 14th September, 1742.
+
+JOHN BULKELEY.
+JOHN CUMMINS.
+JOHN YOUNG.
+
+To the veracity of the above assertion I have sign'd my name,
+
+GABRIEL PRYNN."
+
+
+Since our being here, we have been inform'd of one of his majesty's ships
+with three store-ships being arriv'd at Rio Janeiro, supply'd with stores
+and men for the relief and assistance of the Severn and Pearl, (which were
+sail'd before in January last for Barbadoes) and that our people were gone
+on board of them, and bound for the West Indies.
+
+Here is a very good bay for ships to ride in, with the wind from E.S.E., to
+the northward and westward back to the S.W., and wind to the southward,
+which blows in and makes a very great sea. At the east side coming in,
+standeth Point de Gloria, where is a very large fortification with a tower
+in the midst: From this point the land rises gradually; about a league from
+hence is the city of Bahia; it is surrounded with fortifications, and
+equally capable of defending it against any attempts from the sea or land.
+
+Provisions here of all kinds are excessive dear, especially fish; this we
+impute to the great number of whales that come into this bay, even where
+the ships lye at anchor; the whale-boats go off and kill sometimes seven or
+eight whales in a day, the flesh of which is cut up in small pieces, then
+brought to the market-place, and sold at the rate of a vintin per pound; it
+looks very much like coarse beef, but inferior to it in taste. The whales
+here are not at all equal in size to the whales in Greenland, being not
+larger than the grampus. After living here above four months without any
+relief from the governor or the inhabitants, who behaved to us as if they
+were under a combination to starve us, we embark'd on board the St Tubes
+with our good friend the captain who brought us from Rio Janeiro: We sail'd
+from Bahia the 11th of September for Lisbon, in company with one of the
+king of Portugal's ships of war, and two East India ships, but the St Tubes
+not being able to sail so well as the other ships, lost sight of them the
+first night. About 70 leagues from the westward of Madeira we bent a new
+foresail; within two or three days afterwards, we had a very hard gale of
+wind, scudding under the foresail, and no danger happening to the ship
+during this gale. When the wind had ceas'd, and we had fair weather, the
+captain, after the evening mass, made an oration to the people, telling
+them that their deliverance from danger in the last gale of wind, and the
+ship though leaky, making no more water than before, was owing to their
+prayers to Nuestra Senhora Boa Mortua and her intercession: That in
+gratitude they ought to make an acknowledgement to that saint for standing
+their friend in time of need: That he himself would shew an example by
+giving the new fore-sail, which was bent to the yard, to the saint their
+deliverer: Accordingly one of the seamen went forward and mark'd out these
+words on the sail, _Deal esta Trinchado pour nostra Senhora Boa Mortua_,
+which is as much as to say, _I give this foresail to our saint, the
+deliverer from death_. The sail and money collected on this occasion
+amounted to upwards of twenty moydores.
+
+On Monday, the 23d of November, in the latitude 39: 17 north, and longitude
+6:00 W., that day at noon the rock of Lisbon bearing S. by W., distant
+sixteen leagues; we steer'd E.S.E., to make the rock before night. At four
+o'clock it blew a very hard gale, and right on the shore: The ship lay-to
+under a foresail, with her head to the southward; at six it blew a storm;
+the foresail splitting, oblig'd us to keep her before the wind, which was
+running her right ashore. The ship was now given over for lost, the people
+all fell to prayers, and cry'd out to their saints for deliverance,
+offering all they had in the world for their lives, and yet at the same
+time neglecting all means to save themselves; they left off pumping the
+ship, though she was exceeding leaky. This sort of proceeding in time of
+extremity is a thing unknown to our English seamen; in those emergencies
+all hands are employ'd for the preservation of the ship and people, and if
+any of them fall upon their knees, 'tis after the danger is over. The
+carpenter and myself could by no means relish this behaviour; we begg'd the
+people for God's sake to go to the pumps, telling them we had a chance to
+save our lives, while we kept the ship above water, that we ought not to
+suffer the ship to sink, while we could keep her free. The captain and
+officers hearing us pressing them so earnestly, left off prayers, and
+entreated the men to keep the pumps going, accordingly we went to pumping,
+and preserv'd ourselves and the ship: In half an hour afterwards the wind
+shifted to the W.N.W., then the ship lay south, which would clear the
+course along shore; had the wind not shifted, we must in an hour's time
+have run the ship ashore. This deliverance, as well as the former, was
+owing to the intercession of Nuestra Senhora Boa Mortua: On this occasion
+they collected fifty moydores more, and made this pious resolution, that
+when the ship arrived safe at Lisbon, the foresail, which was split in the
+last gale of wind, should be carried in procession to the church of this
+grand saint, and the captain should there make an offering equal in value
+to the foresail, which was reckon'd worth eighteen moydores.
+
+On Saturday, the 28th of November, we arrived at Lisbon, and on the next
+morning every person who came in the ship, (excepting the carpenter,
+myself, and the cooper) officers, passengers, the Spanish don himself, and
+all the people, men and boys, walk'd bare-footed, with the foresail, in
+procession, to the church of Nuestra Senhora Boa Mortua; the weather at
+that time being very cold, and the church a good mile distant from the
+landing-place. We Englishmen, when we came ashore, went immediately on the
+Change. I was pretty well known to some gentlemen of the English factory.
+When I inform'd them that we were three of the unfortunate people that were
+cast away in the Wager, and that we came here in one of the Brazil ships,
+and wanted to embrace the first opportunity of going for England, they told
+me, that the lieutenant had been before us, that he was gone home in the
+packet-boat, and left us a very indifferent character. I answer'd, I
+believ'd the lieutenant you'd give but a very bad account of himself,
+having kept no journal, nor made any remarks since the loss of the ship,
+nor perhaps before; that we doubted not but to acquit ourselves of any
+false accusations, having with us a journal, which gave an impartial
+relation of all our proceedings. The journal was read by several gentlemen
+of the factory, who treated us, during our stay at Lisbon, with exceeding
+kindness and benevolence.
+
+On the 20th of December, we embark'd on board his majesty's ship the
+Stirling Castle for England: Here we had again the happiness of
+experiencing the difference between a British and a foreign ship,
+particularly in regard to cleanliness, accommodation, diet, and discipline.
+We met with nothing material in our passage, and arrived at Spithead on the
+1st of January, 1742-3. Here we thought of nothing but going ashore
+immediately to our families, but were told by the captain, we must not stir
+out of the ship till he knew the pleasure of the l----ds of the A----y,
+having already wrote to them concerning us. This was a very great
+affliction to us, and the more so, because we thought our troubles at an
+end. The carpenter and myself were in view of our habitations; our families
+had long given us over for lost, and on the news of our safety, our
+relatives look'd upon us as sons, husbands, and fathers, restor'd to them
+in a miraculous manner. Our being detain'd on board gave them great
+anxiety; we endeavour'd to console 'em as well as we could, being assured,
+that we had done nothing to offend their l----s; that if things were not
+carried on with that order and regularity which is strictly observ'd in the
+navy, necessity drove us out of the common road. Our case was singular;
+since the loss of the ship, our chiefest concern was for the preservation
+of our lives and liberties, to accomplish which, we acted according to the
+dictates of nature, and the best of our understanding. In a fortnight's
+time, their l----ps order'd us at liberty, and we instantly went ashore to
+our respective habitations, having been absent from thence about two years
+and six months.
+
+After we had staid a few days with our families, we came to London, to pay
+our duties to the l----ds of the A----y. We sent in our journal for, their
+l----ps' inspection: They had before received a narrative from the l----t,
+which narrative he confesses to be a relation of such things as occur'd
+to his memory; therefore of consequence could not be so satisfactory as a
+journal regularly kept. This journal lay for some time in the a----y
+o----e, when we were order'd to make an abstract, by way of narrative, that
+it might not be too tedious for their l----ps' perusal. After the narrative
+was examined into, their l----ps, upon our petition, were pleased to fix a
+day for examining all the officers lately belonging to the Wager. The
+gentlemen appointed to make enquiry into the whole affair were three
+commanders of ships, persons of distinguish'd merit and honour. However, it
+was afterwards thought proper not to admit us to any examination, till the
+arrival of the commodore, or else Captain Cheap. And it was also resolv'd,
+that not a person of us should receive any wages, or be employed in his
+majesty's service, till every thing relating to the Wager was more plain
+and conspicuous. There was no favour shewn in this case to one more than
+another, so that every body seem'd easy with their l----ps' resolution. All
+that we have to wish for now is the safe arrival of the commodore and
+Captain Cheap: We are in expectation of soon seeing the former, but of the
+captain we have as yet no account. However, we hope, when the commodore
+shall arrive, that the character he will give of us will be of service to
+us: He was very well acquainted with the behaviour of every officer in his
+squadron, and will certainly give an account of them accordingly.
+
+
+[119] In reprinting this very curious and scarce Narrative, we have thought
+    it proper to adhere to the orthography and contractions of the
+    original throughout. The former are little different from the present
+    standard, and the latter cannot give any trouble to the reader.
+    Altogether, this is a composition not without merit sufficient to
+    warrant its being preserved.--E.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+END OF VOLUME SEVENTEENTH.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A General History and Collection of
+Voyages and Travels, Volume 17, by Robert Kerr
+
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