diff options
| -rw-r--r-- | .gitattributes | 3 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16296-0.txt | 6300 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16296-0.zip | bin | 0 -> 139642 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16296-8.txt | 6300 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16296-8.zip | bin | 0 -> 139606 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16296-h.zip | bin | 0 -> 179000 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16296-h/16296-h.htm | 6391 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16296-h/images/frontispiece.jpg | bin | 0 -> 41761 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16296.txt | 6300 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16296.zip | bin | 0 -> 139538 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | LICENSE.txt | 11 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | README.md | 2 |
12 files changed, 25307 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/16296-0.txt b/16296-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d3f0992 --- /dev/null +++ b/16296-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,6300 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Sketches From My Life, by Hobart Pasha + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Sketches From My Life + By The Late Admiral Hobart Pasha + +Author: Hobart Pasha + +Release Date: July 15, 2005 [EBook #16296] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES FROM MY LIFE *** + + + + +Produced by Steven Gibbs, Janet Blenkinship and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + + + +SKETCHES + +FROM + +MY LIFE + + +BY THE LATE + +ADMIRAL HOBART PASHA + + + +_WITH A PORTRAIT_ + + + +THIRD EDITION + + +LONDON +LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. +1887 + +_All rights reserved_ + +PRINTED BY +SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE +LONDON + + + + +PREFACE. + + +These pages were the last ever written by the brave and true-hearted +sailor of whose life they are a simple record. + +A few months before his death, some of his friends made the fortunate +suggestion that he should put on paper a detailed account of his +sporting adventures, and this idea gradually developed itself until the +work took the present form of an autobiography, written roughly, it is +true, and put together without much method, part of it being dictated at +the Riviera during the last days of the author's fatal illness. Such as +it is, however, we are convinced that the many devoted friends of +Hobart Pasha who now lament his death will be glad to recall in these +'Sketches' the adventures and sports which some of them shared with him, +and the genial disposition and manly qualities which endeared him to +them all. + + + + +CONTENTS + + +CHAPTER PAGE + +I. A ROUGH START IN LIFE 1 + +II. PERILS BY SEA AND LAND 14 + +III. A TRAGICAL AFFAIR 27 + +IV. RIO DE JANEIRO 36 + +V. SLAVER HUNTING 43 + +VI. SLAVER HUNTING (_continued_) 53 + +VII. LOVE AND MURDER 62 + +VIII. THE QUEEN'S YACHT 71 + +IX. IN THE BALTIC 78 + +X. BLOCKADE-RUNNING 87 + +XI. EXCITING ADVENTURES 103 + +XII. A VISIT TO CHARLESTON 120 + +XIII. NEVER CAUGHT! 133 + +XIV. LAST DAYS ON THE 'D----N' 147 + +CHAPTER PAGE + +XV. RICHMOND DURING THE SIEGE 159 + +XVI. THE LAND BLOCKADE 175 + +XVII. I ENTER THE TURKISH NAVY 186 + +XVIII. THE WAR WITH RUSSIA 201 + +XIX. THE TURKISH FLEET DURING THE WAR 217 + +XX. SPORT IN TURKEY 235 + +XXI. SPORT AND SOCIETY 253 + +EXTRACT FROM THE 'DAILY TELEGRAPH' 277 + +SKETCHES FROM MY LIFE. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +A ROUGH START IN LIFE. + + +To attempt to write and publish sketches of my somewhat eventful career +is an act that, I fear, entails the risk of making enemies of some with +whom I have come in contact. But I have arrived at that time of life +when, while respecting, as I do, public opinion, I have hardened +somewhat into indifference of censure. I will, however, endeavour to +write as far as lies in my power (while recording facts) 'in charity +with all men.' This can be done in most part by omitting the names of +ships in which and officers under whom I have served. + +I was born, as the novelists say, of respectable parents, at +Walton-on-the-Wold, in Leicestershire, on April 1, 1822. I will pass +over my early youth, which was, as might be expected, from the time of +my birth until I was ten years of age, without any event that could +prove interesting to those who are kind enough to peruse these pages. + +At the age of ten I was sent to a well-known school at Cheam, in Surrey, +the master of which, Dr. Mayo, has turned out some very distinguished +pupils, of whom I was not fated to be one; for, after a year or so of +futile attempt on my part to learn something, and give promise that I +might aspire to the woolsack or the premiership, I was pronounced +hopeless; and having declared myself anxious to emulate the deeds of +Nelson, and other celebrated sailors, it was decided that I should enter +the navy, and steps were taken to send me at once to sea. + +A young cousin of mine who had been advanced to the rank of captain, +more through the influence of his high connections than from any merit +of his own, condescended to give me a nomination in a ship which he had +just commissioned, and thus I was launched like a young bear, 'having +all his sorrows to come,' into Her Majesty's navy as a naval cadet. I +shall never forget the pride with which I donned my first uniform, +little thinking what I should have to go through. My only consolation +while recounting facts that will make many parents shudder at the +thought of what their children (for they are little more when they join +the service) were liable to suffer, is, that things are now totally +altered, and that under the present régime every officer, whatever his +rank, is treated like a gentleman, or he, or his friends, can know 'the +reason why.' + +I am writing of a period some fifteen or twenty years after Marryat had +astonished the world by his thrilling descriptions of a naval officer's +life and its accompanying troubles. At the time of which I write people +flattered themselves that the sufferings which 'Midshipman Easy' and +'The Naval Officer' underwent while serving the Crown were tales of the +past. I will show by what I am about very briefly to relate that such +was very far from being the case. + +Everything being prepared, and good-bye being said to my friends, who +seemed rather glad to be rid of me, I was allowed to travel from London +on the box of a carriage which contained the great man who had given me +the nomination (captains of men-of-war were very great men in those +days), and after a long weary journey we arrived at the port where +H.M.S.---- was lying ready for sea. On the same night of our arrival the +sailing orders came from the Admiralty; we were to go to sea the next +day, our destination being South America. + +Being a very insignificant individual, I was put into a waterman's boat +with my chest and bed, and was sent on board. On reporting myself, I was +told by the commanding officer not to bother him, but to go to my mess, +where I should be taken care of. On descending a ladder to the lower +deck, I looked about for the mess, or midshipmen's berth, as it was then +called. In one corner of this deck was a dirty little hole about ten +feet long and six feet wide, five feet high. It was lighted by two or +three dips, otherwise tallow candles, of the commonest +description--behold the mess! + +In this were seated six or seven officers and gentlemen, some +twenty-five to thirty years of age, called mates, meaning what are now +called sub-lieutenants. They were drinking rum and water and eating +mouldy biscuits; all were in their shirtsleeves, and really, considering +the circumstances, seemed to be enjoying themselves exceedingly. + +On my appearance it was evident that I was looked upon as an interloper, +for whom, small as I was, room must be found. I was received with a +chorus of exclamations, such as, 'What the deuce does the little fellow +want here?' 'Surely there are enough of us crammed into this beastly +little hole!' 'Oh, I suppose he is some protégé of the captain's,' &c. +&c. + +At last one, more kindly disposed than the rest, addressed me: 'Sorry +there is no more room in here, youngster;' and calling a dirty-looking +fellow, also in his shirtsleeves, said, 'Steward, give this young +gentleman some tea and bread and butter, and get him a hammock to sleep +in.' So I had to be contented to sit on a chest outside the midshipmen's +berth, eat my tea and bread and butter, and turn into a hammock for the +first time in my life, which means 'turned out'--the usual procedure +being to tumble out several times before getting accustomed to this, to +me, novel bedstead. However, once accustomed to the thing, it is easy +enough, and many indeed have been the comfortable nights I have slept in +a hammock, such a sleep as many an occupant of a luxurious four-poster +might envy. At early dawn a noise all around me disturbed my slumbers: +this was caused by all hands--officers and men--being called up to +receive the captain, who was coming alongside to assume his command by +reading his official appointment. + +I shall never forget his first words. He was a handsome young man, with +fine features, darkened, however, by a deep scowl. As he stepped over +the side he greeted us by saying to the first lieutenant in a loud +voice, 'Put all my boat's crew in irons for neglect of duty.' It seems +that one of them kept him waiting for a couple of minutes when he came +down to embark. After giving this order our captain honoured the +officers who received him with a haughty bow, read aloud his commission, +and retired to his cabin, having ordered the anchor to be weighed in two +hours. + +Accordingly at eight o'clock we stood out to sea, the weather being fine +and wind favourable. At eleven all hands were called to attend the +punishment of the captain's boat's crew. I cannot describe the horror +with which I witnessed six fine sailor-like looking fellows torn by the +frightful cat, for having kept this officer waiting a few minutes on the +pier. Nor will I dwell on this illegal sickening proceeding, as I do not +write to create a sensation, and, thank goodness! such things cannot be +done now. + +I had not much time for reflection, for my turn came next. I believe I +cried or got into somebody's way, or did something to vex the tyrant; +all I know is that I heard myself addressed as 'You young scoundrel,' +and ordered to go to the 'mast-head.' Go to the mast-head indeed! with +a freshening wind, under whose influence the ship was beginning to heel +over, and an increasing sea that made her jump about like an acrobat. I +had not got my sea legs, and this feat seemed an utter impossibility to +me. I looked with horror up aloft; then came over me the remembrance of +Marryat's story of the lad who refused to go to the mast-head, and who +was hoisted up by the signal halyards. While thinking of this, another +'Well, sir, why don't you obey orders?' started me into the lower +rigging, which I began with the greatest difficulty to climb, expecting +at every step to go headlong overboard. + +A good-natured sailor, seeing the fix I was in, gave me a helping hand, +and up I crawled as far as the maintop. This, I must explain to my +non-nautical reader, is not the mast-head, but a comparatively +comfortable half-way resting-place, from whence one can look about +feeling somewhat secure. + +On looking down to the deck my heart bled to see the poor sailor who had +helped me undergoing punishment for his kind act. I heard myself at the +same time ordered 'to go higher,' and a little higher I did go. Then I +stopped, frightened to death, and almost senseless; terror, however, +seemed to give me presence of mind to cling on, and there I remained +till some hours afterwards; then I was called down. On reaching the deck +I fainted, and knew no more till I awoke after some time in my hammock. + +Now, I ask anyone, even a martinet at heart, whether such treatment of a +boy, not thirteen years of age, putting his life into the greatest +danger, taking this first step towards breaking his spirit, and in all +probability making him, as most likely had been done to the poor men I +had seen flogged that morning, into a hardened mutinous savage, was not +disgraceful? + +Moreover, it was as close akin to murder as it could be, for I don't +know how it was I didn't fall overboard, and then nothing could have +saved my life. However, as I didn't fall, I was not drowned, and the +effect on me was curious enough. For all I had seen and suffered on that +the opening day of my sea-life made me think for the first time--and I +have never ceased thinking (half a century has passed since then)--how +to oppose tyranny in every shape. Indeed, I have always done so to such +an extent as to have been frequently called by my superiors 'a +troublesome character,' 'a sea lawyer,' &c. + +Perhaps in this way I have been able to effect something, however +small, towards the entire change that has taken place in the treatment +of those holding subordinate positions in the navy--and that something +has had its use, for the tyrant's hand is by force stayed now, 'for once +and for all.' + +With this little I am satisfied. + +Now let us briefly look into the question, 'Why are men tyrants when +they have it in _their power to be so_?' + +Unfortunately, as a rule, it appears to come natural to them! What +caused the Indian Mutiny? Let Indian officers and those employed in the +Indian civil service answer that question. + +However, I have only to do with naval officers. My experience tells me +that a man clothed with brief but supreme authority, such as the command +of a man-of-war, in those days when for months and months he was away +from all control of his superiors and out of reach of public censure, is +more frequently apt to listen to the promptings of the devil, which more +or less attack every man, especially when he is alone. + +Away from the softening influence of society and the wholesome fear of +restraint, for a time at least the voice of his better angel is +silenced. Perhaps also the necessarily solitary position of a commander +of a man-of-war, his long, lonely hours, the utter change from the +jovial life he led previous to being afloat, to say nothing of his liver +getting occasionally out of order, may all tend to make him irritable +and despotic. + +I have seen a captain order his steward to be flogged, almost to death, +because his pea-soup was not hot. I have seen an officer from twenty to +twenty-five years of age made to stand between two guns with a sentry +over him for hours, because he had neglected to see and salute the +tyrant who had come on deck in the dark. And as a proof, though it seems +scarcely credible, of what such men can do when unchecked by fear of +consequences, I will cite the following:-- + +On one occasion the captain of whom I have been writing invited a friend +to breakfast with him, and there being, I suppose, a slight monotony in +the conversation, he asked his guest whether he would like, by way of +diversion, to see a man flogged. The amusement was accepted, and a man +_was_ flogged. + +It was about the time I write of that the tyranny practised on board Her +Majesty's ships was slowly but surely dawning upon the public, and a +general outcry against injustice began. + +This was shown in a very significant manner by the following fact:-- + +A post-captain of high rank and powerful connections dared, in +contradiction to naval law, to flog a midshipman. This young officer's +father, happening to be a somewhat influential man, made a stir about +the affair. The honourable captain was tried by court-martial and +severely reprimanded. + +However, I will cut short these perhaps uninteresting details, merely +stating that for three years I suffered most shameful treatment. My last +interview with my amiable cousin is worth relating. The ship was paid +off, and the captain, on going to the hotel at Portsmouth, sent for me +and offered me a seat on his carriage to London. Full of disgust and +horror at the very sight of him, I replied that I would rather 'crawl +home on my hands and knees than go in his carriage,' and so ended our +acquaintance, for I never saw him again. + +It may be asked how, like many others, I tided over all the ill-usage +and the many trials endured during three years. The fact is, I had +become during that period of ill-treatment so utterly hardened to it +that I seemed to feel quite indifferent and didn't care a rap. But +wasn't I glad to be free! + +I had learnt many a lesson of use to me in after life, the most +important of all being to sympathise with other people's miseries, and +to make allowance for the faults and shortcomings of humanity. + +On the other hand, experience is a severe taskmaster, and it taught me +to be somewhat insubordinate in my notions. I fear I must confess that +this spirit of insubordination has never left me. + +On my arrival at home my relations failed to see in me an ill-used lad +(I was only sixteen), and seemed inclined to disbelieve my yarns; but +this did not alter the facts, nor can I ever forget what I went through +during that 'reign of terror,' as it might well be called. + +People may wonder how was it in the days of Benbow and his successors no +complaints were made. To this I answer, first, that the men of those +days, knowing the utter hopelessness of complaining, preferred to 'grin +and bear;' secondly, that neither officers nor men were supposed to +possess such a thing as feeling, when they had once put their foot on +board a man-of-war. Then there were the almost interminable sea voyages +under sail, during which unspeakable tyrannies could be practised, +unheard of beyond the ship, and unpunished. It must be remembered that +there were no telegraphs, no newspaper correspondents, no questioning +public, so that the evil side of human nature (so often shown in the +very young in their cruelty to animals) had its swing, fearless of +retribution. + +Let us leave this painful subject, with the consoling thought that we +shall never see the like again. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +PERILS BY SEA AND LAND. + + +After enjoying a few weeks at home, I was appointed to the Naval Brigade +on service in Spain, acting with the English army, who were there by way +of assisting Queen Christina against Don Carlos. + +The army was a curious collection of regular troops and volunteer +soldiers, the latter what would be called 'Bashi-Bazouks.' The naval +part of the expedition consisted of 1,200 Royal Marines, and a brigade +of sailors under the orders of Lord John Hay. The army (barring the +regulars, who were few in numbers) was composed of about 15,000 of the +greatest rabble I ever saw, commanded by Sir De Lacy Evans. + +For fear any objection or misapprehension be applied to the word +'rabble,' I must at once state that these volunteers, though in +appearance so motley and undisciplined, fought splendidly, and in that +respect did all honour to their country and the cause they were +fighting for. + +Very soon after we had disembarked I received what is usually called my +'baptism of fire,' that is to say, I witnessed 'the first shot fired in +anger.' The Carlists were pressing hard on the Queen's forces, who were +returning towards the sea; it was of the greatest importance to hold +certain heights that defended San Sebastian and the important port of +Passagis. + +The gallant marines (as usual to the front) were protecting the hill on +which Lord John was standing; the fire was hot and furious. I candidly +admit I was in mortal fear, and when a shell dropped right in the middle +of us, and was, I thought, going to burst (as it did), I fell down on my +face. Lord John, who was close to me, and looking as cool as a cucumber, +gave me a severe kick, saying, 'Get up, you cowardly young rascal; are +you not ashamed of yourself?' + +I did get up and _was_ ashamed of myself. From that moment to this I +have never been hard upon those who flinched at the first fire they were +under. My pride helped me out of the difficulty, and I flinched no more. +For an hour or so the battle raged furiously. + +By degrees all fear left me; I felt only excitement and anger, and when +we (a lot I had to do with it!) drove the enemy back in the utmost +confusion, wasn't I proud! + +When all was over Lord John called me, and after apologising in the most +courteous manner for the kick, he gave me his hand (poor fellow! he had +already lost one arm while fighting for his country), and said: 'Don't +be discouraged, youngster; you are by no means the first who has shown +alarm on being for the first time under fire.' So I was happy. + +It is not my intention to give in detail the events that I witnessed +during that disastrous civil war in Spain; suffice it that after much +hard fighting the Carlists were driven back into their mountains so much +discouraged that they eventually renounced a hopeless cause; and at all +events for a long period order was restored in Spain. + +After serving under Lord John Hay for six or seven months, I was +appointed to another ship, which was ordered to my old station, South +America. + +The captain of my new ship was in every sense a gentleman, and although +a strict disciplinarian, was just and kind-hearted. From the captain +downwards every officer was the same in thought and deed, so we were all +as happy as sand-boys. It was then that I began to realise a fact of +which before I had only a notion--namely, that discipline can be +maintained without undue severity, to say nothing of cruelty, and that +service in the navy could be made a pleasure as well as a duty to one's +country. + +After visiting Rio de Janeiro, we were sent to the River Plate; there we +remained nearly a year, during which time several adventures which I +will relate occurred, both concerning my duties and my amusements. + +I must tell my readers that from earliest boyhood I had a passionate +love for shooting; and, through the kindness of my commanding officer +while at Monte Video, I was allowed constantly to indulge in sport. + +On one occasion my captain, who was a keen sportsman, took me with him +out shooting. We had a famous day's sport, filled our game bags with +partridges, ducks, and snipe, and were returning home on horseback when +a solitary horseman, a nasty-looking fellow, armed to the teeth, rode up +to us. As I knew a little Spanish we began to talk about shooting, &c. +&c.; then he asked me to shoot a bird for him (the reason why he did +this will be seen immediately). I didn't like the cut of his jib, so +rather snubbed him. However, he continued to ride on with us, to within +half a mile of where our boat was waiting to take us on board. I must +explain our relative positions as we rode along. The captain was on my +left, I next to him, and the man was on my right, riding very near to +me. All of a sudden he exclaimed in Spanish, 'Now is the time or never,' +threw his right leg over the pommel of his saddle, slipped on to the +ground, drew his knife, dashed at me, and after snatching my gun from my +hand, stuck his knife (as he thought) into me. Then he rushed towards +the captain, pulling the trigger of my gun, and pointing straight at the +latter's head; the gun was not loaded, having only the old percussion +caps on. (Now I saw why he wanted me to fire, so that he might know +whether my gun was loaded; but the old caps evidently deceived him.) + +All this was the work of a very few seconds. Now what was my chief +doing? Seeing a row going on, he was dismounting; in fact, was half-way +off his horse, only one foot in the stirrup, when the man made the rush +at him. Finding me stuck to my saddle (for the ruffian's knife had gone +through my coat and pinned me), and the fellow snapping my gun, which +was pointed at him, he as coolly as possible put his gun over his +horse's shoulder and shot the would-be murderer dead on the spot. Then +turning to me he said quite calmly, 'I call you to witness that that +man intended to murder me.' How differently all would have ended had my +gun been loaded! The villain would have shot my chief, taken both guns, +and galloped off, leaving me ignominiously stuck to my saddle. + +The audacity of this one man attacking us two armed sportsmen showed the +immense confidence these prairie people feel in themselves, especially +in their superior horsemanship. However, the fellow caught a Tartar on +this occasion. + +As for me, the knife had gone, as I said, through my loose shooting +jacket just below the waist, through the upper part of my trousers, and +so into the saddle, without even touching my skin. I have kept the knife +in memory of my lucky escape. + +While laying at Monte Video there was on each side of us a French +man-of-war, the officers of which were very amiably inclined, and many +were the dinners and parties exchanged between us. + +In those days the interchange of our respective languages was very +limited on both sides, so much so, that our frantic efforts to +understand each other were a constant source of amusement. A French +midshipman and myself, however, considered ourselves equal to the +occasion, and professed linguists; so on the principle that in the 'land +of the blind the one-eyed man is king,' we were the swells of the +festivities. + +I remember on one occasion, when the birthday of Louis Philippe was to +be celebrated, my French midshipman friend came on board officially and +said, 'Sir, the first of the month is the feast of the King; you must +fire the gun.' 'All right,' said we. Accordingly, we loaded our guns in +the morning, preparatory to saluting at noon. It was raining heavily all +the forenoon, so we had not removed what is called the tompions (to my +unprofessional reader I may say that the tompion is a very large piece +of wood made to fit into the muzzle, for the purpose of preventing wet +from penetrating). To this tompion is, or used to be, attached a large +piece of wadding, what for I never rightly understood. + +Now it seems that those whose duty it was to attend to it had neglected +to take these things out of the guns. + +On the first gun being fired from the French ship we began our salute. +The French ships were close alongside of us, one on either side. The +gunner who fires stands with the hand-glass to mark the time between +each discharge. On this occasion he began his orders thus: 'Fire, port;' +then suddenly recollecting that the tompions were not removed he added, +'Tompions are in, sir.' No one moved. The gunner could not leave his +work of marking time. Again he gave the order, 'Fire, starboard,' +repeating, 'Tompions are in, sir,' and so on till half the broadside had +been fired before the tompions had been taken out. It is difficult to +describe the consternation on board the French vessels, whose decks were +crowded with strangers (French merchants, &c.), invited from the shore +to do honour to their King's fête. These horrid tompions and their +adjuncts went flying on to their decks, from which every one scampered +in confusion. It was lucky our guns did not burst. + +This was a most awkward dilemma for all of us. I was sent on board to +apologise. The French captain, with the courtesy of his nation, took the +mishap most good-humouredly, begging me to return the tompions to my +captain, as they had no occasion for them. So no bad feeling was +created, though shortly after this contretemps an affair of so serious a +nature took place, that a certain coldness crept in between ourselves +and our ci-devant friends. + +It seems that there had been of late several desertions from the French +vessels lying at Monte Video, great inducements of very high wages being +offered by the revolutionary party in Buenos Ayres for men to serve +them. The French commander therefore determined to search all vessels +leaving Monte Video for other ports in the River Plate--a somewhat +arbitrary proceeding, and one certain to lead to misunderstanding sooner +or later. + +On the occasion I refer to, a vessel which, though not under the English +flag, had in some way or other obtained English protection, was leaving +the port; so we sent an officer and a party of armed men to prevent her +being interfered with. I was of the party, which was commanded by our +second lieutenant. Our doing this gave great offence to the French +commander, who shortly after we had gone on board also sent a party of +armed men, with positive orders to search the vessel at all risks. On +our part we were ordered not to allow the vessel to be searched or +interfered with. The French officer, a fine young fellow, came on board +with his men and repeated his orders to Lieutenant C----. The vessel, I +may mention, was a schooner of perhaps a couple of hundred tons, about +130 feet long. We had taken possession of the after-part of the deck, +the French crew established themselves on the fore-part. + +Never was there a more awkward position. The men on both sides loaded +and cocked their muskets. The English and French officers stood close to +one another. The former said, 'Sir, you have no business here, this +vessel is under English protection. I give you five minutes to leave or +take the consequences.' The other replied, 'Sir, I am ordered to search +the vessel, and search her I will.' They both seemed to, and I am sure +did, mean business; for myself, I got close to my lieutenant and cocked +a pistol, intending to shoot the French officer at the least show of +fighting. Nevertheless, I thought it a shockingly cruel and inhuman +thing to begin a cold-blooded fight under such circumstances. + +However, to obey orders is the duty of every man. Lieutenant C---- +looked at his watch; two minutes to spare. The marines were ordered to +prepare, and I thought at the end of the two minutes the deck of the +little vessel would have been steeped in blood. Just then, in the +distance, there appeared a boat pulling towards us at full speed; it +seems that wiser counsels had prevailed between the captains of the two +ships: the French were told to withdraw and leave the vessel in our +hands. + +I was much amused at the cordial way in which the two lieutenants shook +hands on receiving this order. There would indeed have been a fearful +story to tell had it not arrived in time; for I never saw determination +written so strongly on men's countenances as on those of both parties, +so nearly engaged in what must have proved a most bloody fight. + +After this incident cordial relations were never re-established between +ourselves and our French friends; fortunately, shortly afterwards we +sailed for Buenos Ayres. + +Buenos Ayres, that paradise of pretty women, good cheer, and all that is +nice to the sailor who is always ready for a lark! We at once went in +for enjoying ourselves to our heart's content; we began, every one of +us, by falling deeply in love before we had been there forty-eight +hours--I say every one, because such is a fact. + +My respectable captain, who had been for many years living as a +confirmed bachelor with his only relative, an old spinster sister, with +whom he chummed, and I fancy had hardly been known to speak to another +woman, was suddenly perceived walking about the street with a large +bouquet in his hand, his hair well oiled, his coat (generally so loose +and comfortable-looking) buttoned tight to show off his figure; and then +he took to sporting beautiful kid gloves, and even to dancing. He could +not be persuaded to go on board at any cost, while he had never left his +ship before, except for an occasional day's shooting. In short, he had +fallen hopelessly in love with a buxom Spanish lady with lustrous eyes +as black as her hair, the widow of a murdered governor of the town. + +Our first and second lieutenants followed suit; both were furiously in +love; and, as I said, every one, even a married man, one of my +messmates, fell down and worshipped the lovely (and lovely they were, +and no mistake) Spanish girls of Buenos Ayres, whose type of beauty is +that which only the blue blood of Spain can boast of. Now, reader, don't +be shocked, I fell in love myself, and my love affair proved of a more +serious nature, at least in its results, than that of the others, +because, while the daughter (she was sixteen, and I seventeen) responded +to my affection, her mother, a handsome woman of forty, chose to fall in +love with me herself. + +This was rather a disagreeable predicament, for I didn't, of course, +return the mother's affection a bit, while I was certainly dreadfully +spoony on the daughter. + +To make a long story short, the girl and I, like two fools as we were, +decided to run away together, and run away we did. I should have been +married if the mother hadn't run after us. She didn't object to our +being married, but, in the meantime, she remained with us, and she +managed to make the country home we had escaped to, with the intention +of settling down there, so unbearable, that, luckily for me as regards +my future, I contrived to get away, and went as fast as I could on board +my ship for refuge, never landing again during our stay at Buenos Ayres. + +Fortunately, shortly afterwards we were ordered away, and so ended my +first love affair. + +I shall never forget the melancholy, woebegone faces of my captain and +brother officers on our re-assembling on board. It was really most +ludicrous. However, a sea voyage which included several sharp gales of +wind soon erased all sad memories; things gradually 'brightened,' and +ere many weeks had passed all on board H.M.S.---- resumed their usual +appearance. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +A TRAGICAL AFFAIR. + + +Whilst I was at Buenos Ayres I had the good luck to visit the +independent province of Paraguay, which my readers must have heard +spoken of, sometimes with admiration, sometimes with sneers, as the +hot-bed of Jesuitism. Those who sneer say that the Jesuit fathers who +left Spain under Martin Garcia formed this colony in the River Plate +entirely in accordance with the principles their egotism and love of +power dictated. It may be so; it is possible that the Jesuits were wrong +in the conclusions they came to as regards the governing or guiding of +human nature; all I can say is, that the perfect order reigning +throughout the colony they had formed, the respect for the clergy, the +cheerful obedience to laws, the industry and peaceful happiness one saw +at every step, made an impression on me I have never forgotten; and when +I compare it with the discord, the crime, and the hatred of all +authority which is now prevailing, alas! in most civilised countries, I +look back to what I saw in Paraguay with a sigh of regret that such +things are of the past. It was beautiful to see the respect paid to the +Church (the acknowledged ruler of the place), the cleanliness and +comfort of the farms and villages, the good-will and order that +prevailed amongst the natives. It was most interesting to visit the +schools, where only so much learning was introduced as was considered +necessary for the minds of the industrious population, without rendering +them troublesome to the colony or to themselves. Though the inhabitants +were mostly of the fiery and ungovernable Spanish race, who had mixed +with the wild aborigines, it is remarkable that they remained quiet and +submissive. + +To prevent pernicious influences reaching this 'happy valley,' the +strictest regulations were maintained as regards strangers visiting the +colony. + +The River Plate, which, coming down from the Andes through hundreds of +miles of rich country, flows through Paraguay, was unavailable to +commerce owing to this law of exclusiveness, which prevented even the +water which washed the shores being utilised. However, about the time I +speak of the English government had determined, in the general +interests of trade, to oppose this monopoly, and to open a way of +communication up the river by force if necessary. The Paraguayans +refused to accept the propositions made by the English, and prepared to +fight for their so-called rights. They threw a formidable barrier across +the stream, and made a most gallant resistance. It was on this occasion +that Captain (now Admiral) H---- performed the courageous action which +covered him with renown for the rest of his life. The enemy had, amongst +other defences, placed a heavy iron chain across the river. This chain +it was absolutely necessary to remove, and the gallant officer I refer +to, who commanded the attack squadron, set a splendid example to us all +by dashing forward and cutting with a cold chisel the links of this +chain. The whole time he was thus at work he was exposed to a tremendous +fire, having two men killed and two wounded out of the six he took with +him. This deed, now almost forgotten by the public, can never be effaced +from the memory of those who saw it done. That the fight was a severe +one is evident from the fact that the vessel I belonged to had 107 shots +in her hull, and thirty-five out of seventy men killed and wounded. + +It was after we had thus forced ourselves into intercourse with the +Paraguayans that I saw an instance of want of tact which struck me as +most remarkable. Fighting being over, diplomacy stepped in, and a man of +somewhat high rank in that service was sent to make friendly overtures +to the authorities. Can it be believed (I do not say it as a sneer +against diplomacy, for this blunder was really _unique_), this big man +had scarcely finished the pipe of peace which he smoked with the +authorities, when he proposed to introduce vaccination and tracts among +the people? Badly as the poor fellows felt the licking they had +received, and much as they feared another should they give trouble to +the invaders, they so resented our representative's meddling that he +found it better to beat a hasty retreat, and to send a wiser man in his +stead. But their fate was sealed, and from the moment the stranger put +his foot into this interesting country dates its entire change. The +system that the Jesuits established was quickly done away with. Paraguay +is now a part of the Argentine Republic, it is generally at war with +some of its neighbours, and its inhabitants are poor, disorderly, and +wretched. + +As I shall have, while telling the story of my life, to relate more +serious events, I will, after recounting one more yarn, not weary my +readers with the little uninteresting details of my youthful adventures, +but pass over the next three years or so, at which time, after having +returned to England, I was appointed to another ship going to South +America, for the purpose of putting down the slave trade in the Brazils. +The adventure to which I have referred was one that made a deep +impression on my mind, as being of a most tragic nature. + +While at Rio de Janeiro we were in the habit of visiting among the +people, attending dances, &c. I always remarked that the pretty young +Brazilian girls liked dancing with the fresh young English sailors +better than with their mud-coloured companions of the male sex, the +inhabitants of the country. + +At the time I write of the English were not liked by the Brazilians, +partly on account of the raid we were then making on the slave trade, +partly through the usual jealousy always felt by the ignorant towards +the enlightened. So with the men we were seldom or ever on good terms, +but with the girls somehow sailors always contrive to be friends. + +It was at one of the dances I have spoken of that the scene I am about +to describe took place. + +Among the pretty girls who attended the ball was one prettier perhaps +than any of her companions; indeed, she was called the belle of Rio +Janeiro. I will not attempt to portray her, but I must own she was far +too bewitching for the peace of heart of her many admirers, and +unhappily she was an unmitigated flirt in every sense of the word. + +Now there was a young Brazilian nobleman who had, as he thought, been +making very successful progress towards winning this girl's heart--if +she had a heart. All was progressing smoothly enough till these hapless +English sailors arrived. + +Then, perhaps with the object of making her lover jealous (a very common +though dangerous game), Mademoiselle pretended (for I presume it was +pretence) to be immensely smitten with one of them--a handsome young +midshipman whom we will call A. + +At the ball where the incident I refer to occurred, she danced once with +him, twice with him, and was about to start with him a third time, when, +to the astonishment of the lookers-on, of whom I formed part, the young +Brazilian rushed into the middle of the room where the couple were +standing, walked close up to them and spat in A.'s face. + +Before the aggressor could look round him, he found himself sprawling on +the floor, knocked by the angry Briton into what is commonly called 'a +cocked hat.' Not a word was spoken. A. wiped his face, led his partner +to a seat and came straight to me, putting his arm in mine and leading +me into the verandah. The Brazilian picked himself up and came also +into the verandah; in less time than I can write it a hostile meeting +was settled, pistols were procured, and we (I say we, because I had +undertaken to act as A.'s friend, and the Brazilian had also engaged a +friend) sauntered into the garden as if for a stroll. + +It was a most lovely moonlight night, such a night as can only be seen +in the tropics. + +I should mention that the chief actors in the coming conflict had +neither of them seen twenty years, and we their seconds were +considerably under that age. The aggressor, whose jealous fury had +driven him almost to madness when he committed an outrageous affront on +a stranger, was a tall, handsome, dark-complexioned young fellow. A. was +also very good-looking, with a baby complexion, blue eyes and light +curly hair, a very type of the Saxon race. + +They both looked determined and calm. After proceeding a short distance +we found a convenient spot in a lovely glade. It was almost as clear as +day, so bright was the moonlight. The distance was measured (fourteen +paces), the pistols carefully loaded. Before handing them to the +principals we made an effort at arrangement, an effort too +contemptuously received to be insisted upon, and we saw that any +attempt at reconciliation would be of no avail without the exchange of +shots; so, handing to each his weapon, we retired a short distance to +give the signal for firing, which was to be done by my dropping a +pocket-handkerchief. It was an anxious moment even for us, who were only +lookers-on. I gave the words, one, two, three, and dropped the +handkerchief. + +The pistols went off simultaneously. To my horror I saw the young +Brazilian spin round and drop to the ground, his face downwards; we +rushed up to him and found that the bullet from A.'s pistol had gone +through his brain. He was stone dead. + +Then the solemnity of the whole affair dawned on us, but there was no +time for thought. Something must be done at once, for revenge quick and +fearful was sure to follow such a deed like lightning. + +We determined to hurry A. off to his ship, and I begged the young +Brazilian to go into the house and break the sad news. The poor fellow, +though fearfully cut up, behaved like a gentleman, walking slowly away +so as to give us time to escape. As we passed the scene of gaiety the +sounds of music and dancing were going on, just as when we left it. How +little the jovial throng dreamt of the tragedy that had just been +enacted within a few yards of them; of the young life cut down on its +threshold! + +We got on board all right, but such a terrible row was made about the +affair that the ship to which A. belonged had to go to sea the next day, +and did not appear again at Rio de Janeiro. + +I, though not belonging to that vessel, was not allowed to land for many +months. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +RIO DE JANEIRO. + + +One word about Rio de Janeiro. Rio, as it is generally called, is +perhaps one of the most lovely spots in the world. The beautiful natural +bay and harbour are unequalled throughout the whole universe. Still, +like the Bosphorus, the finest effect is made by Rio de Janeiro when +looked at from the water. In the days of which I write yellow fever was +unknown; now that fearful disease kills its thousands, aye, tens of +thousands, yearly. The climate, though hot at times, is very good; in +the summer the mornings are hot to a frying heat, but the sea breeze +comes in regularly as clockwork, and when it blows everything is cool +and nice. Life is indeed a lazy existence; there is no outdoor amusement +of any kind to be had in the neighbourhood. As to shooting, there are +only a few snipe to be found here and there, and while looking for these +you must beware of snakes and other venomous reptiles, which abound +both in the country and in town. I remember a terrible fright a large +picnic party, at which I assisted, was thrown into while lunching in the +garden of a villa, almost in the town of Rio, by a lady jumping up from +her seat with a deadly whip-snake hanging on her dress. I once myself +sat on an adder who put his fangs through the woollen stuff of my +inexpressibles and could not escape. The same thing happened with the +lady's dress; in that case also we caught the snake, as it could not +disentangle its fangs. + +In the country near Rio there are great snakes called the anaconda, a +sort of boa-constrictor on a large scale. Once, while walking in the +woods with some friends, we found a little Indian boy dead on the +ground, one of these big snakes lying within a foot or so of him, also +dead; the snake had a poisoned arrow in his brain, which evidently had +been shot at him by the poor little boy, whose blow-pipe was lying by +his side. The snake must have struck the boy before it died, as we found +a wound on the boy's neck. This reptile measured twenty-two feet in +length. + +By the way, a well-known author, Mrs. B----, tells a marvellous story +about these snakes. She says that they always go in pairs, have great +affection for each other, and are prepared on all occasions to resent +affronts offered to either of them. She narrates that a peasant once +killed a big anaconda, and that the other, or chum snake, followed the +man several miles to the house where he had taken the dead one, got in +by the window, and crushed the destroyer of his friend to death. I +expect that some salt is necessary to swallow this tale, but such is the +statement Mrs. B---- makes. + +The most lovely birds and butterflies are found near Rio, and the finest +collections in the world are made there. The white people are Portuguese +by origin--not a nice lot to my fancy, though the ladies are as usual +always nice, especially when young; they get old very soon through +eating sweets and not taking exercise. There is very little poverty +except among the free blacks, who are lazy and idle and somewhat +vicious. I always have believed that the black man is an inferior +animal--in fact, that the dark races are meant to be drawers of water +and hewers of wood. I do not deny that they have souls to be saved, but +I believe that their rôle in this world is to attend on the white man. +The black is, and for years has been, educated on perfect equality with +the white man, and has had every chance of improving himself--with what +result? You could almost count on your fingers the names of those who +have distinguished themselves in the battle of life. + +Sometimes, while cruising off the coast of Rio de Janeiro looking out +for slave vessels, we passed a very monotonous life. The long and +fearfully hot mornings before the sea breeze sets in, the still longer +and choking nights with the thermometer at 108°, were trying in the +extreme to those accustomed to the fresh air of northern climates; but +sailors have always something of the 'Mark Tapley' about them and are +generally jolly under all circumstances, and so it was with me. One day, +while longing for something to do, I discovered that the crew had been +ordered to paint the ship outside; as a pastime I put on old clothes and +joined the painting party. Planks were hung round the ship by ropes +being tied to each end of the plank; on these the men stood to do their +work. We had not been employed there very long when there was a cry from +the deck that the ship was surrounded by sharks. It seems that the +butcher had killed a sheep, whose entrails, having been thrown +overboard, attracted these fearful brutes round the ship in great +numbers. As may be imagined, this report created a real panic among the +painters, for I believe we all feared a shark more than an enemy armed +to the teeth. I at once made a hurried movement to get off my plank. As +I did so the rope at one end slipped off, and so threw the piece of +wood, to which I had to hang as on a rope, up and down the vessel's +side, bringing my feet to within a very few inches of the water. On +looking downwards I saw a great shark in the water, almost within +snapping distance of my legs. I can swear that my hair stood on end with +fear; though I held on like grim death, I felt myself going, yes, going, +little by little right into the beast's jaws. At that moment, only just +in time, a rope was thrown over my head from the deck above me, and I +was pulled from my fearfully perilous position, more dead than alive. +Now for revenge on the brutes who would have eaten me if they could! It +was a dead calm, the sharks were still swimming round the ship waiting +for their prey. We got a lot of hooks with chains attached to them, on +which we put baits of raw meat. I may as well mention a fact not +generally known, viz., that a shark must turn on his back before opening +his capacious mouth sufficiently to feed himself; when he turns he means +business, and woe to him who is within reach of the man-eater's jaws. On +this occasion what we offered them was merely a piece of meat, and most +ravenously did they rush, turn on their backs, and swallow it, only to +find that they were securely hooked, and could not bite through the +chains that were fast to the hooks--in fact, that it was all up with +them. Orders had been given by the commanding officer that the sharks +were not to be pulled on board, partly from the dangerous action of +their tails and jaws even when half dead, partly on account of the +confusion they make while floundering about the decks; so we hauled them +close to the top of the water, fired a bullet into their brains and cut +them loose. We killed thirty that morning in this way, some of them +eight to ten feet long. + +The most horrid thing I know is to see, as I have done on more than one +occasion, a man taken by a shark. You hear a fearful scream as the poor +wretch is dragged down, and nothing remains to tell the dreadful tale +excepting that the water is deeply tinged with blood on the spot where +the unfortunate man disappeared. These ravenous man-eaters scent blood +from an enormous distance, and their prominent upper fin, which is +generally out of the water as they go along at a tremendous pace, may be +seen at a great distance, and they can swim at the rate of a mile a +minute. A shark somewhat reminds me of the torpedo of the present day, +and in my humble opinion is much more dangerous. + +Once we caught a large shark. On opening him we found in his inside a +watch and chain quite perfect. Could it have been that some poor wretch +had been swallowed and digested, and the watch only remained as being +indigestible? + +It is strange to see the contempt with which the black man treats a +shark, the more especially when he has to do with him in shallow water. +A negro takes a large knife and diving under the shark cuts its bowels +open. If the water is deep the shark can go lower down than the man and +so save himself, and if the nigger don't take care he will eat him; thus +the black man never goes into deep water if he can help it, for he is +always expecting a shark. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +SLAVER HUNTING. + + +Shortly after the duel at Rio I went to England, but to be again +immediately appointed to a vessel on the Brazilian station. + +It was at the time when philanthropists of Europe were crying aloud for +the abolition of the African slave trade, never taking for a moment into +consideration the fact that the state of the savage African black +population was infinitely bettered by their being conveyed out of the +misery and barbarism of their own country, introduced to civilization, +given opportunities of embracing religion, and taught that to kill and +eat each other was not to be considered as the principal pastime among +human beings. + +At the period I allude to (from 1841 to 1845) the slave trade was +carried out on a large scale between the coast of Africa and South +America; and a most lucrative trade it was, if the poor devils of +negroes could be safely conveyed alive from one coast to the other. I +say if, because the risk of capture was so great that the poor wretches, +men, women, and children, were packed like herrings in the holds of the +fast little sailing vessels employed, and to such a fearful extent was +this packing carried on that, even if the vessels were not captured, +more than half the number of blacks embarked died from suffocation or +disease before arriving at their destination, yet that half was +sufficient to pay handsomely those engaged in the trade. + +On this point I propose giving examples and proofs hereafter, merely +remarking, _en passant_, that had the negroes been brought over in +vessels that were not liable to be chased and captured, the owners of +such vessels would naturally, considering the great value of their +cargo, have taken precautions against overcrowding and disease. Now, let +us inquire as to the origin of these poor wretched Africans becoming +slaves, and of their being sold to the white man. It was, briefly +speaking, in this wise. On a war taking place between two tribes in +Africa, a thing of daily occurrence, naturally many prisoners were made +on both sides. Of these prisoners those who were not tender enough to be +made into ragoût were taken down to the sea-coast and sold to the +slave-dealers, who had wooden barracks established ready for their +reception. + +Into these barracks, men, women, and children, most of whom were kept in +irons to prevent escape, were bundled like cattle, there to await +embarkation on board the vessels that would convey them across the sea. + +Now, as the coast was closely watched on the African side, to prevent +the embarkation of slaves, as it was on the Brazilian side, to prevent +their being landed, the poor wretches were frequently waiting for weeks +on the seashore undergoing every species of torment. + +At last the vessel to carry off a portion of them arrived, when they +were rushed on board and thrown into the hold regardless of sex, like +bags of sand, and the slaver started on her voyage for the Brazils. +Perhaps while on her way she was chased by an English cruiser, in which +case, so it has often been known to happen, a part of the living cargo +would be thrown overboard, trusting that the horror of leaving human +beings to be drowned would compel the officers of the English cruiser to +slacken their speed while picking the poor wretches up, and thus give +the slaver a better chance of escape. (This I have seen done myself, +fortunately unavailingly.) + +I will now ask the reader to bring his thoughts back to the coast of +Brazil, where a good look-out was being kept for such vessels as I have +mentioned as leaving the African coast with live cargo on board bound +for the Brazilian waters. Rio de Janeiro, the capital of Brazil, was the +headquarters of the principal slave-owners. It was there that all +arrangements were made regarding the traffic in slaves, the despatch of +the vessels in which they were to be conveyed, the points on which they +were to land, &c., and it was at Rio that the slave-vessels made their +rendezvous before and after their voyages. It was there also that the +spies on whose information we acted were to be found, and double-faced +scoundrels they were, often giving information which caused the capture +of a small vessel with few slaves on board, while the larger vessel, +with twice the number, was landing her cargo unmolested. + +As for myself, I was at the time of life when enterprise was necessary +for my existence, and so keenly did I join in the slave-hunting mania +that I found it dangerous to land in the town of Rio for fear of +assassination. + +My captain, seeing how enthusiastic I was in the cause, which promised +prize-money if not renown, encouraged me by placing me in a position +that, as a humble midshipman, I was scarcely entitled to, gave me his +confidence, and thus made me still more zealous to do something, if only +to show my gratitude. + +Having picked up all the information possible as regarded the movements +of the slave vessels, we started on a cruise, our minds set particularly +on the capture of a celebrated craft called the 'Lightning,' a vessel +renowned for her great success as a slave ship, whose captain declared +(this made our mission still more exciting) that he would show fight, +especially if attacked by English men-of-war boats when away from the +protection of their ships. + +I must mention that it was the custom of the cruisers on the coast of +Brazil to send their boats on detached service, they (the boats) going +in one direction while the vessels they belonged to went in another, +only communicating every two or three days. Proud indeed for me was the +moment when, arriving near to the spot on the coast where the +'Lightning' was daily expected with her live cargo, I left my ship in +command of three boats, viz., a ten-oared cutter and two four-oared +whale boats. I had with me in all nineteen men, well armed and prepared, +as I imagined, for every emergency. The night we left our ship we +anchored late under the shelter of a small island, and all hands being +tired from a long row in a hot sun, I let my men go to sleep during the +short tropical darkness. As soon as the day was breaking all hands were +alert, and we saw with delight a beautiful rakish-looking brig, crammed +with slaves, close to the island behind which we had taken shelter, +steering for a creek on the mainland a short distance from us. I ought +to mention that the island in question was within four miles of this +creek. We immediately prepared for action, and while serving out to each +man his store of cartridges, I found to my horror that the percussion +tubes and caps for the boat's gun, the muskets and pistols, had been +left on board the ship. What was to be done? no use swearing at anybody. +However, we pulled boldly out from under the shelter of the island, +thinking to intimidate the slaver into heaving to. In this we were +grievously mistaken. + +The vessel with her men standing ready at their guns seemed to put on a +defiant air as she sailed majestically past us, and although we managed +with lucifer matches to fire the boat's gun once or twice, she treated +us with sublime contempt and went on her way into the creek, at the rate +of six or seven miles an hour. Though difficult to attack the vessel in +the day time without firearms, I determined if possible not to lose +altogether this splendid brig. I waited therefore till after sunset, +and then pulled silently into the creek with muffled oars. There was our +friend securely lashed to the rocks. We dashed on board with drawn +cutlasses, anticipating an obstinate resistance. We got possession of +the deck in no time, but on looking round for someone to fight with, saw +nothing but a small black boy who, having been roused up from a sort of +dog-kennel in which he had been sleeping, first looked astonished and +then burst out laughing, pointing as he did so to the shore. Yes, the +shore to which the slaver brig was lashed was the spot where seven +hundred slaves (or nearly that number, for we found three or four +half-dead negroes in the hold) and the crew had all gone, and left us +lamenting our bad luck. However, I took possession of the vessel as she +lay, and though threatened day and night by the natives, who kept up a +constant fire from the neighbouring heights and seemed preparing to +board us, maintained our hold upon the craft until the happy arrival of +my ship, which, with a few rounds of grape, soon cleared the +neighbourhood of our assailants. I may mention that, in the event of our +having been boarded, we had prepared a warm reception for our enemies in +the shape of buckets of boiling oil mixed with lime, which would have +been poured on their devoted heads while in the act of climbing up the +side. As they kept, however, at a respectful distance, our remedy was +not tried. The vessel, a splendid brig of 400 tons, was then pulled off +her rocky bed, and I was sent in charge of her to Rio de Janeiro. And +now comes the strangest part of my adventures on this occasion. + +On the early morning after I had parted company with my commanding +officer, before the dawn, I ran accidentally right into a schooner +loaded with slaves, also coming from Africa, bound to the same place as +had been the brig, my prize. + +Without the slightest hesitation, before the shock and surprise caused +by the collision had given time for reflection or resistance, I took +possession of this vessel, put the crew in irons, and hoisted English +colours. There were 460 Africans on board, and what a sight it was! + +The schooner had been eighty-five days at sea. They were short of water +and provisions; three distinct diseases--namely, small-pox, ophthalmia, +and diarrhÅ“a in its worst form--had broken out while coming across among +the poor doomed wretches. + +On opening the hold we saw a mass of arms, legs, and bodies all crushed +together. Many of the bodies to whom these limbs belonged were dead or +dying. In fact, when we had made some sort of clearance among them we +found in that fearful hold eleven dead bodies lying among the living +freight. Water! water! was the cry. Many of them as soon as free jumped +into the sea, partly from the delirious state they were in, partly +because they had been told that, if taken by the English, they would be +tortured and eaten. The latter I fancy they were accustomed to, but the +former they had a wholesome dread of. + +Can Mrs. Beecher Stowe beat this? It is, I can assure my readers, a very +mild description of what I saw on board the first cargo of slaves I made +the acquaintance of, and by which I was so deeply impressed, that I have +ever since been sceptical of the benefits conferred upon the African +race by our blockade--at all events, of the means employed to abolish +slavery. + +The strangest thing amid this 'confusion of horrors' was that children +were constantly being born. In fact, just after I got on board, an +unfortunate creature was delivered of a child close to where I was +standing, and jumped into the sea, baby and all, immediately afterwards. +She was saved with much difficulty; the more so, as she seemed to +particularly object to being rescued from what nearly proved a watery +grave. + +After this unusual stroke of good luck, sending a prize crew on board +my new capture, and allowing the slaver's crew to escape in the +schooner's boat, as I considered these lawless ruffians an impediment to +my movements, I proceeded on my voyage, and arrived safely in Rio +harbour with my two prizes. + +There I handed my live cargo over to the English authorities, who had a +special large and roomy vessel lying in the harbour for the reception of +the now free niggers. + +It would be as well perhaps to state what became of the freed blacks. +First of all they were cleaned, clothed (after a fashion), and fed; then +they were sent to an English colony, such for example as Demerara, where +they had to serve seven years as apprentices (something, I must admit, +very like slavery), after which they were free for ever and all. I fear +they generally used their freedom in a way that made them a public +nuisance wherever they were. However, they were free, and that satisfied +the philanthropists. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +SLAVER HUNTING (_continued_). + + +Now to return to my 'experiences.' As proud as the young sportsman when +he has killed his first stag, I returned, keen as mustard, to my ship, +which I found still cruising near to where I had left her. Some secret +information that I had received while at Rio led me to ask my captain to +again send me away with a force similar to that which I had under me +before (with percussion caps this time), and allow me to station myself +some fifty miles further down the coast. My request was granted, and +away I went. This time, instead of taking shelter under an island, I +ensconced my little force behind a point of land which enabled me by +mounting on the rocks to sweep the horizon with a spy-glass, so that I +could discover any vessel approaching the land while she was yet at a +considerable distance. + +There happened to be a large coffee plantation in my immediate +neighbourhood, and I remarked that the inhabitants favoured us with the +darkest of scowls whenever we met them. This made me believe (and I +wasn't far out) that the slave-vessel I was looking out for was bringing +recruits to the already numerous slaves employed on the said plantation. +Two or three mornings after my arrival, I discovered a sail on the very +far horizon; a vessel evidently bound to the immediate neighbourhood I +had chosen as my look-out place. The winds were baffling and light, as +usual in the morning in these latitudes, where, however, there is always +a sea-breeze in the afternoon. So, being in no hurry, I sauntered about +the shore with my double-barrelled gun in my hand, occasionally taking a +look seaward. Suddenly I saw within a hundred yards of me a man leading +two enormous dogs in a leash. The dogs were of a breed well known among +slave-owners, as they were trained to run down runaway slaves. I believe +the land of their origin is Cuba, as they are called Cuba bloodhounds. + +Suspecting nothing I continued my lounge, turning my back on the man and +his dogs. A few minutes afterwards I was startled by a rushing sound +behind me. On turning quickly round I saw to my horror two huge dogs +galloping straight at me. Quick as lightning I stood on the defensive, +and when they with open mouths and bloodshot eyes were within five +yards, I pulled the trigger. The gun missed fire with the first barrel. +The second barrel luckily went off, scattering the brains of the nearest +dog, the whole charge having entered his mouth, and gone through the +palate into his brain. This occurrence seemed to check the advance of +the second brute, who, while hesitating for a moment before coming at +me, received a ball in his side from one of my sailors, who fortunately +had observed what was going on and had come to my rescue. Without +waiting an instant to see what had become of the man who had played me +this murderous trick, I called my men together, launched the boats, and +put out to sea. + +By this time the sea-breeze had set in, and I could see the vessel I had +been watching, though still a considerable distance from the shore, was +trimming her sails to the sea-breeze, and steering straight in for the +very spot where I had been concealed. Signal after signal was made to +her by her friends on the shore, in the shape of lighted fires (not much +avail in the daytime) and the hoisting of flags, &c., but she seemed +utterly to disregard the action of her friends. Satisfied, I imagine, +that she had all but finished her voyage, seeing no cruiser and +unsuspicious of boats, on she came.[1] + +We got almost alongside of her before the people on board seemed to see +us. When she did, evidently taken by surprise, she put her helm down, +and throwing all her sails aback, snapped some of her lighter spars, +thus throwing everything into confusion--confusion made worse by the +fact that, with the view of immediate landing, two hundred or three +hundred of the niggers had been freed from their confinement and were +crowded on the deck. Taking advantage of this state of things we made +our capture without a shot being fired. + +In fact everything was done, as sailors say, 'before you could look +round you,' the man at the helm replaced by one of my men, the crew +bundled down into the slave-hold to give them a taste of its horrors, +and the sails trimmed for seaward instead of towards the land. The +captain, who seemed a decent fellow, cried like a child. He said: 'If I +had seen you five minutes before you would never have taken me. Now I am +ruined.' I consoled him as well as I could and treated him well, as he +really seemed half a gentleman, if not entirely one. I found about six +hundred slaves, men and women and children, on board this vessel, who as +they had made a very rapid and prosperous voyage, were in a somewhat +better state than those on board the last capture. Still goodness knows +their state was disgusting enough. Ophthalmia had got a terrible hold of +the poor wretches. In many of the cases the patient was stone blind. I +caught this painful disease myself, and for several days couldn't see a +yard. + +Shortly after, having despatched our prize into Rio in charge of a +brother midshipman, we were joined by another man-of-war cruiser, which +had been sent to assist us in our work. As the officer in command of +this vessel was of senior rank to my commander, he naturally took upon +himself to organise another boat expedition, placing one of his own +officers in command. With this expedition I was allowed to go, taking +with me my old boats and their crews, with orders to place myself under +the direction of Lieutenant A.C., the officer chosen by the senior in +command. + +So we started with five boats provisioned and otherwise prepared for a +cruise of twenty days. The lieutenant in charge did not think it wise to +land, as a bad feeling towards us was known to exist among the +inhabitants, who were all more or less slave-dealers, or interested in +the success of the slave-vessels, so we had to live in our boats. Rather +hard lines, sleeping on the boat's thwarts, &c. Still we had that 'balm +of Gilead,' hope, to keep us alive, and our good spirits. Many a longing +eye did I cast to the shore, where, in spite of the bloodhounds, I +should like to have stretched my cramped limbs. Ten or twelve days +passed in dodging about, doing nothing but keeping a good look-out, and +we almost began to despair, when one fine morning we saw a large brig, +evidently a slaver, running in towards the shore with a fresh breeze. +Our boats were painted like fishing boats, and our men disguised as +fishermen, as usual; so, apparently occupied with our pretended +business, we gradually approached the slave-vessel. My orders were +strictly to follow the movements or action of my superior. Then I +witnessed a gallant act, such as I have not seen surpassed during forty +years of active service that I have gone through since that time. +Lieutenant A.C., who was in the leading boat, a large twelve-oared +cutter, edged pretty near to the advancing vessel, and when quite close +under her bows one man seemed to me to spring like a chamois on board. I +saw the boat from which the man jumped make an ineffectual attempt to +get alongside the vessel, that was going at the rate of six miles an +hour, and then drop astern. I heard a pistol shot, and suddenly the +vessel was thrown up in the wind with all her sails aback, thus entirely +stopping her way (sailors will understand this). Not knowing precisely +what had happened, we pulled like maniacs alongside of the slaver. To do +this was, now that the vessel's way was stopped, comparatively easy. We +dashed on board, and after a slight resistance on the part of the +slaver's crew, in which two or three more men, myself among the number, +were wounded, we took possession of the brig. There we found our +lieutenant standing calmly at the helm, which was a long wooden tiller. +He it was who had jumped on board alone, shot the man at the helm, put +the said helm down with his leg, while in his hand he held his other +pistol, with which he threatened to shoot any one who dared to touch +him. + +I fancy that his cool pluck had caused a panic among the undisciplined +crew, a panic that our rapid approach tended much to increase. What +astonished me was that nobody on board thought of shooting him before he +got to the helm, in which case we never could have got on board the +vessel, considering the speed she was going through the water. What he +did was a glorious piece of pluck, that in these days would have been +rewarded with the Victoria Cross as the least recompense they could have +given to so gallant an officer. Poor fellow! all the reward he got, +beyond the intense admiration of those who saw him, was a bad attack of +small-pox from the diseased _animals_ (there is no other name for +negroes in the state they were in) on board the slave-vessel, which +somewhat injured the face of one of the handsomest men I ever saw. He is +now an admiral, has done many gallant acts since then, but none could +beat what he did on that memorable morning. + +I have said that I was among those who were wounded on this occasion. +What my friend A.C. did so far outshone anything that I had +accomplished, that it is hardly worth while speaking of my share in the +fray. However, as I am writing sketches from my life, I will not omit to +describe the way in which I was wounded. We were, as I have said, making +a rush to assist our gallant leader, who was alone on board the slaver. +The reader will have seen that our business was boarding and fighting +our enemy hand to hand. As I was making a jump on board I saw the white +of the eye of a great black man turned on me; he brandished a huge axe, +which I had a sort of presentiment was intended for me. I sprang as it +were straight at my destiny, for as I grasped the gunnel down came the +axe, and I received the full edge of the beastly thing across the back +of my hand. I fell into the water, but was picked up by my sailors, and +managed to get on board again. Had it not been for a clever young +assistant surgeon, who bound up the wound in a most scientific manner, I +should probably have quite lost the use of my hand; the mark remains +across my knuckles to this day. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +LOVE AND MURDER. + + +I was once sent from Rio to Demerara, an English colony on the coast of +Brazil, with a cargo of blacks that we had freed. Then it was that I had +a good opportunity of studying the character of these people certainly +in their primitive state, and if ever men and women resembled wild +animals it was my swarthy charges. When I arrived at Demerara I handed +them over to their new masters, to whom they were apprenticed for seven +years, and from all I can understand they were, during their +apprenticeship, treated pretty much as slaves in every respect. + +During the time I visited Demerara (and I fancy it is very slightly +changed now) it was one of the vilest holes in creation. It is built on +a low sandy point of land at the entrance of a great river, and is +almost the hottest place on the earth. Mosquitos in thousands of +millions; nothing for the natives to do but to cultivate sugar-canes +and to perspire. There were two crack regiments quartered at Demerara, +who, having to withstand the dreadful monotony of doing nothing, took I +fear to living rather too well; the consequence was that many a fine +fellow had been carried off by yellow fever. For my part, I took a +rather high flight in the way of pastime by falling (as I imagined) +desperately in love with the governor's daughter. The governor, I must +tell my readers, was a very great swell, a general, a K.C.B., &c., and +his daughter was a mighty pretty girl, much run after by the garrison; +so it was thought great impertinence on my part, as a humble +sub-lieutenant, to presume to make love to the reigning, if not the +only, beauty in the place. + +However, audacity carried me on, and I soon became No. 1 in the young +lady's estimation. I used to ride with her, spent the evenings in the +balcony of Government House with her, sent her flowers every morning, +and so on, till at last people began to talk, and steps were taken by +her numerous admirers to stop my wild career. This was done in a +somewhat startling way (premeditated, as I found out afterwards). One +evening I was playing at whist, one of my opponents being a momentarily +discarded lover of my young lady; I thought he was looking very +distrait; however, things went off quietly enough for some time, till on +some trifling question arising concerning the rules of the game, the +young man suddenly and quite gratuitously insulted me most grossly, +ending his insolent conduct by throwing his cards in my face. This was +more than I could put up with, so I called him out, and the next morning +put a ball into his ankle, which prevented him dancing for a long time +to come. He, being the best dancer in the colony, was rather severely +punished; it seems that he had undertaken to bell the cat, hardly +expecting such unpleasant results. + +On returning home after the hostile meeting I found a much more +formidable adversary in the shape of the governor himself, who was +stamping furiously up and down the verandah of my apartment. He received +me with, 'What the d--- l do you mean, young sir, by making love to my +daughter? you are a mere boy.' (I was twenty and did not relish his +remark.) 'What means have you got?' + +After the old gentleman's steam had gone down a little I replied, +'Really, general, I hardly know how to answer you. Your daughter and I +are very good friends, the place is most detestably dull, there is +nothing to do, and if we amuse ourselves with a little love-making, +surely there can be no great harm.' This rejoinder of mine made things +worse; I thought the old boy would have had a fit. At last he said, 'The +mail steamer leaves for England to-morrow; you shall go home by her, I +order you to do so!' I replied that I should please myself, and that I +was not under his orders. The general went away uttering threats. After +he was gone I thought seriously over the matter. I calculated that my +income of 120_l._ a year would scarcely suffice to keep a wife, and I +decided to renounce my dream of love. I went to pay a farewell visit to +my young lady, but found that she was locked up, so away I went and soon +forgot all about it. Shortly afterwards I heard that the governor's +daughter married the man whose leg I had lamed for his impertinence to +me. + +My last adventure while employed in the suppression of the slave trade +is perhaps worth describing. + +By international law it was ruled that a vessel on her way to Africa, if +fitted out in a certain manner, whereby it was evident that she was +employed in the nefarious traffic of slavery, was liable to capture and +condemnation by the mixed tribunals, or in other words became the lawful +prize of her captors. + +While cruising off Pernambuco we boarded a Portuguese vessel bound to +Africa, so evidently fitted out for the purpose of slave trade that my +captain took possession of her, and sent me to convey her to the Cape +of Good Hope for adjudication. It was the usual thing to send the +captain of a vessel so captured as a prisoner on board his ship, so that +he might be interrogated at the trial. In this case the master and three +of his crew were sent. The prize crew consisted of myself and six men. +Now the captain was an exceedingly gentlemanlike man, a good sailor, and +a first-rate navigator. + +At first I treated him as a prisoner, but by degrees he insinuated +himself into my good graces to such an extent that after a while I +invited him to mess with me, in fact, made a friend of him, little +thinking of the serpent I was nourishing. + +For several days all went well. I was as unsuspicious as a child of foul +play. We lived together and worked our daily navigation together, played +at cards together, in fact were quite chums. The three men who were +supposed to be prisoners were allowed considerable liberty, and as they +had, as I found out afterwards, a private stock of grog stowed away +somewhere, which they occasionally produced and gave to my men, they +managed to be pretty free to do as they wished. For all that, I ordered +that the three prisoners should be confined below during the night. + +As the weather was very hot I always slept in a little place on deck +called a bunk, a thing more like a dog-kennel than aught else I can +compare it to, excepting that the hole for entrance and exit was +somewhat larger than that generally used for the canine species. + +I always slept with a pistol (revolvers were unknown in those days) +under my pillow. Luckily for me that I did so, as the result will show. + +I had remarked (this I thought of afterwards) that the prisoner captain +and some of his men had been whispering together a good deal lately; but +not being in the slightest degree suspicious I thought nothing of it. + +One evening I retired to my sleeping place as usual, after having passed +a pleasant chatty evening with my prisoner. I was settling myself to +sleep, in fact I think I was asleep as far as it would be called so, for +I had from habit the custom of sleeping with one eye open, when I saw or +_felt_ the flash of a knife over my head. The entrance to my couch was +very limited, so that my would-be murderer had some difficulty in +striking the fatal blow. Instinct at once showed me my danger. + +To draw my pistol from under my pillow was the work of a second; to fire +it into the body of the man who was trying to stab me, that of another. +A groan and a heavy fall on the deck told me what had happened, and +springing out of my sleeping berth I found my ci-devant friend the +captain lying on his face, dead as a door nail. In the meantime I heard +a row in the fore-part of the ship. On going forward I saw one of the +prisoners in the act of falling overboard, and another extended full +length on the deck, while my stalwart quarter-master was flourishing a +handspike with which he had knocked one of his assailants overboard and +floored the other. Now it will be asked what was the man at the wheel +doing? Hereby hangs a tale. He swore that he heard or saw nothing. +Considering this sufficient evidence of his guilt, I put him in irons. +Shortly afterwards he confessed the whole story. It seems that a +conspiracy had been planned among the prisoners to retake the ship--that +the man at the wheel had been bribed to let free two of the prisoners, +under promise of a large reward if the result had been the retaking of +the ship. + +The only provision he made was that he was to take no murderous action +against his countrymen. The man at the helm and the quarter-master being +the only men on deck, and I being gone to roost, all seemed easy enough, +but Providence willed it otherwise. + +I buried the captain in the sea without further ceremony; the man who +fell overboard I suppose was drowned (I did not try to pick him up); the +man knocked down was put in irons, and all went smoothly for the rest of +the voyage; but when I arrived at the Cape of Good Hope without the +captain, the lawyers who defended the ship wanted to make out that I had +murdered him, and I was very nearly sent to prison on the charge of +murder. + +In the above pages I have endeavoured to give some notion of what used +to go on in old times when there were no steam launches, and when, I may +be forgiven for saying it, sailors were in every sense of the word +sailors. + +I could recount many more adventures somewhat similar to those I have +described, but I do not wish to bore my readers or appear egotistical in +their eyes. The only comparison I would make in regard to our doings in +those days is with the work done by the blockading squadron during the +civil war in America; for if ever men required plucky endurance and +self-denial it was the poor fellows who had to keep, or endeavour to +keep, blockade-runners if not slavers from communicating with the stormy +shores of Florida and South Carolina. They are too modest now to tell us +what they went through. Perhaps forty years hence they will do as I am +doing, and recount some of their adventures, which I am convinced would +quite put into the shade anything I or my boat's crew ever did. + +I do not wish to be mistaken in my remarks about the black race. I will +not venture to give an opinion as to what Providence meant to be done +with those interesting creatures. I only assert, and this I do from my +own personal experience, that a black man is a happier and wiser man in +America than he is in his own wretched country, North and South. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +THE QUEEN'S YACHT. + + +I returned from the Cape to England. On arriving there I was appointed +to the Queen's yacht, as a reward for what their lordships at the +Admiralty were good enough to designate my active and zealous services +while employed in suppression of the slave trade. + +To be appointed to Her Majesty's yacht was in those days considered a +very great distinction. Even now the Queen invariably chooses officers +who have seen what is called 'service.' Such an appointment, apart from +the honour of being so near Her Majesty, always tends to rapid +promotion. + +The Queen at the time I write of was very fond of cruising in her yacht, +paying visits to foreign potentates, &c. Her Majesty had been then five +years married, with a young family springing up around her, and her +beloved husband the Prince Consort always with her, participating in +all her pleasures; so we, the officers of the Royal yacht, had a rare +time of it, were made a lot of wherever we went, and thought ourselves +very great men indeed. Amongst other trips, we conveyed the Royal family +up the Rhine, where Her Majesty visited the King of Prussia at +Stolzenfels. + +Afterwards we went to the Château d'Eu, where Her Majesty was received +by King Louis Philippe and the Reine Amélie. + +I shall never forget the condescending kindness of Her Majesty and +Prince Albert to all on board the Royal yacht. As to the Prince Consort, +he treated the officers more in the light of companions than +subordinates, always ready to join us in a cigar and its accompanying +friendly conversation. + +Apropos of smoking, I cannot refrain from mentioning a little incident +that happened on board the 'Victoria and Albert,' that I, for one, shall +never forget. Her Gracious Majesty never approved of smoking, and it was +only through the kind consideration of the Prince Consort that we were +allowed to indulge in an occasional cigar in the cow-house. The +cow-house was a little place fitted up for two pretty small Alderney +cows, kept specially for supplying milk and butter for the Royal table. + +Her Majesty was very fond of these animals and had the habit of +visiting them every day, and the young Princes used to be held up to +look in at the window, out of which there was room for the favoured cows +to stretch their heads. One evening we were smoking as usual when I +espied a pot of blue paint on the deck of the cow-house, with, as bad +luck would have it, a brush in the pot. I cannot say what induced me, +but I deliberately took the brush and painted the tips of the noses and +the horns of both animals a pretty light blue. Having done this I +thought no more of the matter. The next morning Her Majesty--well, I +think I had better say no more about it. I, the culprit, was denounced +and had to keep out of the way for a day or two. Then it was that the +good-natured Prince proved himself a friend, and got me out of my +scrape. + +I passed two of the happiest years of my life in the Queen's yacht, +after which I was promoted to the rank of lieutenant, and appointed to a +ship in the Mediterranean, where I passed for several years the usual +humdrum life of a naval officer during times of profound peace. + +However, while serving as a lieutenant in the Mediterranean, I had the +advantage of taking part in one of the most interesting political events +of the century, namely, the flight of Pius IX. from Rome. The ship I +was in was stationed at Civita Vecchia, the sea-port of Rome, partly in +order to protect British interests--that is, the persons and properties +of British subjects--partly with the object of taking that half-hearted +part in religious politics which has always been such a humiliating rôle +for England. + +We had an accredited agent, a nondescript sort of person, representing +England at the court of Pope Pius IX. This gentleman's duty was to watch +and report, but not to act. It was through him that England's idea of +the policy to be pursued by the Pope was conveyed. We did not, and we +did, want to interfere. The question of the balance of power of Italy as +an independent nation was too important to neglect; it was impossible to +separate altogether religion and politics. However, at the time I write +of things were rushing to a crisis. + +The Pope, who a short time previously had been considered the great +supporter of liberty, was now looked upon as its enemy. Garibaldi was, +in a mad sort of way, fighting in its cause--at least, he professed to +do so. He had marched with a band of howling volunteers to the gates of +Rome, and established himself there as its conqueror, virtually making +the Pope a prisoner in the Vatican. In the meantime France interfered +in the Pope's cause, and sent General Oudinot with a small army to +dislodge Garibaldi. England's doubtful diplomatic relations made it +necessary to choose every sort of means of communicating with the Pope, +and I had the honour on more than one occasion of being the messenger +chosen to communicate, not only with His Holiness, but between Garibaldi +and the French commander. On the first occasion I was sent to Rome with +despatches from Lord Palmerston to be delivered (so said my orders) into +the Pope's own hands. + +On my arrival at Rome I went straight to the Quirinal and asked to see +Cardinal Antonelli. When I informed him of my instructions, he said at +once, 'You may give your despatches to me; you cannot expect to see His +Holiness.' 'No, sir; to the Pope I will give my despatches, or take them +back again,' and from this decision no persuasions or threats would move +me. Finding me obstinate the Cardinal at last took me with him into a +room where the Pope was sitting. His Holiness seemed in a great state of +anxiety, but was most kind and condescending. He gave me his hand to +kiss, and congratulated me on having been so firm in obeying orders in +relation to my despatches. I afterwards found that these despatches +influenced very much the important step taken by Pio Nono a few days +afterwards. + +Subsequently I several times conveyed communications between General +Garibaldi and General Oudinot. The former had most pluckily taken +possession of an important position inside the walls of Rome, and it was +a hard piece of work to dislodge him. + +I used to gallop in between General Oudinot's camp and Garibaldi's +headquarters, having on my arm a red scarf for a sign that I was not a +belligerent. My scarf was not much use, however, as I was generally +fired at all the time that I was passing the space between the French +camp and Garibaldi's headquarters in Rome. + +I was amused by the audacity with which Garibaldi resisted the French +army. I fancy he wanted to delay matters so that the Pope should be +induced to take the ill-advised step of leaving Rome, and in this the +republican general succeeded. What went on in Rome, the way in which the +Pope escaped, &c., I am not able to relate. All I know is that one fine +morning a simple carriage arrived from Rome at Civita Vecchia, bringing +a portly individual enveloped in the large cloak of an English coachman, +and another man in ordinary apparel. They strolled down to the place of +embarkation, and went quietly on board, not (as was expected) the +English man-of-war, but a French vessel-of-war which was lying with her +steam up. + +This vessel then left the harbour, almost unnoticed, and it was not for +hours afterwards that we heard that His Holiness Pius IX. was the +humble-looking person who had embarked before our eyes, and thus got +away safely to Gaëta. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +IN THE BALTIC. + + +In 1854 the war (commonly called the Crimean war) broke out, and I was +appointed first lieutenant of H.M.S.---- for service in the Baltic. + +I shall never forget the excitement among us all when, after so many +years of inactivity, we were called upon to defend the honour of our +country. Unfortunately for old England the Baltic fleet was put under +the command of Sir C. N----, 'fighting old Charley' as he was called, +though it was not long before we discovered that there was not much +fight left in him. It might well be said by those generously inclined +towards him, in the words of the old song, that the + +'Bullets and the gout +Had so knocked his hull about, +That he'd never more be fit for sea.' + +A finer fleet never sailed or steamed from Spithead than that destined +for the Baltic in 1854. The signal from its commander, 'Lads, war is +declared! Sharpen your cutlasses and the day's your own,' sent a thrill +of joy through every breast. After following the melting ice up the +Baltic Sea to within almost reach of the guns of Cronstadt, we waited +till the ice had disappeared, and then went in as we thought for the +attack. + +The ship to which I belonged being a steamer, and drawing much less +water than the line-of-battle ships, led the way. A grander sight could +not be conceived than that of twenty splendid line-of-battle ships, +formed in two lines, steaming straight up to the frowning batteries of +Cronstadt. On our approaching the batteries a shot was fired, and fell +alongside the ship I was in, which, as I said, was leading for the +purpose of sounding, when, to our astonishment and disgust, the signal +was made from the flag-ship to the fleet 'Stop!' and immediately +afterwards to 'anchor.' + +It is not for me to say the reason 'why.' All that I can vouch for is +that, in the general opinion of competent judges, had we gone on we +could have taken or destroyed Cronstadt, instead of which--what was +done? They sent to England for special boats to be made ready for the +next summer, when the attack would be made on Cronstadt. + +We remained a few days at anchor off that place, when some half of the +fleet were detached to the Aland Islands, where an insignificant fort +called Bomarsund was to be attacked--not by the English and French +fleets, who were fit to do any mortal thing, but by an army fetched from +France. When the army came, the poor little fort attacked by the fleet +on the seaside, and on the shore by the soldiers, after firing a few +shots surrendered. During the attack I was appointed acting commander of +H.M.S.----, and was mentioned honourably in despatches. + +Many promotions were made for the taking of Bomarsund, but I fancy I had +as usual given my opinion too freely, as I was left out in the cold. I +shall never forget old Charley's answer to me when I applied for my +promotion, it was so worthy of him. He said, 'Don't ye come crying to +me, Sir; you are a lord's son: I'll have nothing to do wi' ye.' + +Immediately after the capture of Bomarsund, the admiral detached a small +squadron under Captain S---- to reconnoitre the Russian port of Abo. Of +that squadron the vessel of which I was commander formed one. We left +with sealed orders, which were not to be opened until we arrived at, or +near to, our destination. + +On sighting the enemy's port we perceived that every preparation was +being made to give us a warm reception. A council of war was held on +board the senior officer's ship, at which council the sealed orders were +opened, when to our disgust it was found within that we were ordered +'not to fight, merely to reconnoitre.' + +Sickening humiliation! There were the Russian gunboats inside the bar of +the harbour of Abo, firing at us with all their might. The forts on the +heights, such as they were, very insignificant temporary batteries of +field-pieces, had commenced to get the range of the ships; but as we +were not to fight, we took a sulky shot or two at the enemy and retired. + +To this day I cannot understand the policy that actuated this weak, +vacillating conduct on the part of our chief. But some idea may be given +of his fighting notions by the following occurrence, of which I was a +witness. + +One morning despatches arrived from England. A signal was made from the +flag-ship for commanding officers to repair on board that vessel. On our +arrival there, we were asked to sit down to breakfast. Our chief, who +was opening his letters, suddenly threw a despatch over the table to +S----, the admiral of the fleet, saying, 'What would ye do, mun, if ye +received a letter like this?' S----, after reading the letter said, 'If +I received a letter like that, I'd attack Revel or Sveaborg if I lost +half my fleet.' Our chief's answer I shall never forget. It was: 'I +haven't got nerve to do it, and I'm d----d well sure C---- hasn't.' +There are many living besides myself who can vouch for the accuracy of +this statement. + +I shall say no more of the doings of the English fleet in the Baltic +during that year. Suffice it, that if ever open mutiny was +displayed--not by the crews of the ships, but by many of the captains, +men who attained the highest rank in their profession--it was during the +cruise in the Baltic in 1854: and no wonder. + +Many gallant deeds were performed by single ships, but the fleet did +absolutely nothing, except help to capture Bomarsund. I returned to +England disgusted and disheartened. The next year the commander-in-chief +was changed; I was appointed to his ship, and we went again to the +Baltic, taking with us all the necessary appurtenances for bombarding +forts and attacking the enemy's coast. + +As soon as the melting of the ice permitted we arrived off Cronstadt, +and found that the Russians had not been asleep during our absence for +the winter months; for they had defended the approaches to that place +to such an extent, that an attack was considered (and on this occasion +there was no difference of opinion) most unadvisable. So we fell back on +Sveaborg, which place was bombarded by the combined fleets, I venture to +think most successfully, and I believe, had we had a force to land, we +could have taken possession of that large and important fortress. + +Our losses during the operation were small on board the squadron of +mortar-boats which I had the good luck to command--some fifty-eight men +_hors de combat_. + +In this service I received my promotion to the rank of commander, and +returned to England. + +Peace was made between Russia and England, previous to which, however, I +was appointed to a vessel in the Mediterranean which formed part of the +fleet off Sebastopol. Unfortunately, I arrived too late to see much +active service there. + +While serving as a commander in the Mediterranean, I was principally +under the command of Sir Wm. M----, a man whose reputation as being the +smartest officer in the navy, I must venture to say, I think was greatly +exaggerated, though he was doubtless what is called a 'smart officer.' + +His idea was to rule with a rod of iron, and never to encourage anyone +by praising zealous and active service. He used to say, 'I am here to +find fault with, not to praise, officers under my command.' So many a +fine fellow's zeal was damped by knowing that no encouragement would +follow in the way of appreciation from his chief, however much he might +have merited it. + +I cannot refrain from recounting a very amusing incident that occurred +in connection with my command of H.M.S. _F---- _. I may mention that, +differing as I did most materially with the system of discipline +followed by the commander-in-chief, I was no favourite of his. + +One day, however, I was somewhat surprised at being ordered to prepare +for the official inspection of my ship, and by no less a person than Sir +W. M----himself. I must mention that one of the crotchets of the chief +was that vessels such as mine--namely, a gunboat of the first +class--could be floated off the shore, in case of their stranding, by +water-casks being lashed round them. So orders were given that all +vessels of that class were to lumber their decks with water-casks. I did +so, according to orders; but, not having the least confidence in the +manner in which the commander-in-chief proposed to employ them, I +utilised them, as will be seen presently, for an entirely different +purpose. + +The day of my ship's inspection was evidently not one of my lucky days. +To begin with, a horrid little monkey belonging to the crew--amusing +himself running about in the hammock-nettings near to the gangway over +which the great man had to pass--seeing something he thought unusual, +made a rush as the commander-in-chief was stepping on board, stooped +down, and deliberately took the cocked hat off his head, dropped it into +the sea, then started up the rigging chattering with delight at the +mischief he had done. The cocked hat was at once recovered, wiped dry, +and placed in its proper place. The admiral, always stern as a matter of +principle, looked, after this incident, sterner than usual, hardly +recognised me except by a formal bow, then proceeded to muster the +officers and crew. This over, he commenced to walk round the deck. I +remarked with pleasure his countenance change when he saw how neatly his +pet water-casks were painted and lashed to the inner gunnel of the ship. +He said quite graciously, 'I am glad to see, Captain Hobart, that you +pay such attention to my orders.' I began to think I was mistaken in my +idea of the man; but, alas! for my exuberance of spirits and +satisfaction. While the admiral was closely examining one of his pet +casks, his face came almost in contact with the opening of the barrel, +when, to his and my horror, a pretty little spaniel put out his head and +licked the great man on the nose. + +I shall never forget the admiral's countenance; he turned blue with +anger, drew himself up, ordered his boat to be manned, and walked over +the side not saying a word to anyone. + +The facts which led to this untoward occurrence were that, seeing the +necessity of having my decks crowded with what I considered useless +lumber, in the form of water-casks, I had utilised them by making them +into dog-kennels. The admiral hated dogs, hated sport of all kind, and, +after what occurred, I fancy hated me. Well, I didn't love him; I never +saw him again. + +The very next day I was ordered to the coast of Syria: just what I +wanted, i.e., to be out of the commander-in-chief's way, and to have +some good shooting. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +BLOCKADE-RUNNING. + + +On receiving my rank as post-captain, I found myself shelved, as it +were, for four years, while waiting my turn for a command. This was +according to the rules of the navy, so there was no getting out of it. +What was I to do? I consulted several of my friends who were in a +similar position, who, like myself, did not wish to remain idle so long, +so we looked about us for some enterprise, as something to do. + +The upshot of it was that we thought of trying if we could not conceive +some plan for breaking through the much-talked-of blockade of the +Southern States of America, then in revolt against the government of +Washington. Four of us young post-captains took this decision, and as it +would have been, perhaps, considered _infra dig._ for real naval +officers to engage in such an enterprise, we lent our minds, if not our +bodies, to certain _alter egos_, whom we inspired, if we did not +personally control, as to their line of conduct. My man I will call +Roberts, whose adventures I now give, and in whose name I shall write. +There are people who insist that I was Captain Roberts; all that such +people have to do is to prove I was that 'miscreant,' whoever he may +have been. The following is his narrative:-- + +During the late civil war in America the executive government undertook +the blockade of more than 3,000 miles of coast, and though nothing could +exceed the energy and activity of the naval officers so employed, the +results were very unsatisfactory, inasmuch as it was not till absolute +possession was taken of the forts at the entrance of the great harbours, +such as Charleston, Mobile, and Wilmington, that blockade-running was +stopped. + +I trust that our American friends will not be too severe in their +censures on those engaged in blockade-running; for, I say it with the +greatest respect for and admiration of enterprise, had they been +lookers-on instead of principals in the sad drama that was enacted, they +would have been the very men to take the lead. It must be borne in mind +that the excitement of fighting did not exist. One was always either +running away or being deliberately pitched into by the broadsides of the +American cruisers, the slightest resistance to which would have +constituted piracy; whereas capture without resistance merely entailed +confiscation of cargo and vessel. + +The vessel I had charge of--which I had brought out from England, was +one of the finest double-screw steamers that had ever been built by +D----n; of 400 tons burden, 250 horse-power, 180 feet long, and 22 feet +beam--and was, so far as sea-going qualities, speed, &c., went, as handy +a little craft as ever floated. Our crew consisted of a captain, three +officers, three engineers, and twenty-eight men, including firemen, that +is, ten seamen and eighteen firemen. They were all Englishmen, and as +they received very high wages, we managed to have picked men. In fact, +the men-of-war on the West India station found it a difficult matter to +prevent their crews from deserting, so great was the temptation offered +by the blockade-runners. + +I will begin by explaining how we prepared the vessel for the work. This +was done by reducing her spars to a light pair of lower masts, without +any yards across them; the only break in their sharp outline being a +small crow's-nest on the foremast, to be used as a look-out place. The +hull, which showed about eight feet above water, was painted a dull grey +colour to render her as nearly as possible invisible in the night. The +boats were lowered square with the gunnels. Coal was taken on board of a +smokeless nature (anthracite). The funnel, being what is called +'telescope,' lowered close down to the deck. In order that no noise +might be made, steam was blown off under water. In fact, every ruse was +resorted to to enable the vessel to evade the vigilance of the American +cruisers, who were scattered about in great numbers all the way between +Bermuda and Wilmington--the port at the time I write of most frequented +by blockade-runners. While speaking of the precautions used I may +mention that among the fowls taken on board as provisions, no cocks were +allowed, for fear of their proclaiming the whereabouts of the +blockade-runner. This may seem ridiculous, but it was very necessary. + +The distance from Bermuda to Wilmington (the port we were bound to) is +720 miles. We started in the evening. For the first twenty-four hours we +saw nothing to alarm us, but at daylight the second day there was a +large American cruiser not half a mile from us, right ahead, who, before +we could turn round, steamed straight at us, and commenced firing +rapidly, but very much at random, the shot and shell all passing over or +wide of us. + +Fortunately, according to orders to have full steam on at daybreak, we +were quite prepared for a run; and still more fortunately a heavy squall +of wind and rain that came on helped us vastly, as we were dead to +windward of the enemy; and having no top-weights we soon dropped him +astern. He most foolishly kept yawing, to fire his bow-chasers, losing +ground every time he did so. By eight o'clock we were out of +range--unhit; and by noon out of sight of anything but smoke. + +Luckily, the chase had not taken us much off our course, as the +consumption of coal during a run of this sort, with boilers all but +bursting from high pressure of steam, was a most serious +consideration--there being no coal in the Confederate ports, where wood +was only used, which would not suit our furnaces. + +We were now evidently in very dangerous waters, steamers being reported +from our mast-head every hour, and we had to keep moving about in all +directions to avoid them; sometimes stopping to let one pass ahead of +us, at another time turning completely round, and running back on our +course. Luckily, we were never seen or chased. Night came on, and I had +hoped that we should have made rapid progress till daybreak unmolested. +All was quiet until about one o'clock in the morning, when suddenly, to +our dismay, we found a steamer close alongside of us. How she had got +there without our knowledge is a mystery to me even now. However, there +she was, and we had hardly seen her before a stentorian voice howled +out, 'Heave-to in that steamer, or I'll sink you.' It seemed as if all +was over, but I determined to try a ruse before giving the little craft +up. So I answered, 'Ay, ay, sir, we are stopped.' The cruiser was about +eighty yards from us. We heard orders given to man and arm the +quarter-boats, we saw the boats lowered into the water, we saw them +coming, we heard the crews laughing and cheering at the prospect of +their prize. The bowmen had just touched the sides of our vessel with +their boat-hooks when I whispered down the tube into the engine-room, +'Full speed ahead!' and away we shot into the darkness. + +I don't know what happened; whether the captain of the man-of-war +thought that his boats had taken possession, and thus did not try to +stop us, or whether he stopped to pick up his boats in the rather nasty +sea that was running, some one who reads this may know. All I can say +is, that not a shot was fired, and that in less than a minute the pitch +darkness hid the cruiser from our view. This was a great piece of luck. + +All the next day we passed in dodging about, avoiding the cruisers as +best we could, but always approaching our post. + +During the day we got good observations with which our soundings agreed; +and at sunset our position was sixty miles due east of the entrance to +Wilmington river, off which place were cruising a strong squadron of +blockading ships. The American blockading squadron, which had undertaken +the almost impossible task of stopping all traffic along 3,000 miles of +coast, consisted of nearly a hundred vessels of different sorts and +sizes--_bonâ-fide_ men-of-war, captured blockade-runners, unemployed +steam-packets, with many other vessels pressed into government service. +Speed and sufficient strength to carry a long gun were the only +requisites, the Confederate men-of-war being few and far between. These +vessels were generally well commanded and officered, but badly manned. +The inshore squadron off Wilmington consisted of about thirty vessels, +and lay in the form of a crescent facing the entrance to Cape Clear +river, the centre being just out of range of the heavy guns mounted on +Fort Fisher, the horns, as it were, gradually approaching the shore on +each side; the whole line or curve covered about ten miles. + +The blockade-runners had been in the habit of trying to get between the +vessel at either extremity; and the coast being quite flat and +dangerous, without any landmark, excepting here and there a tree +somewhat taller than others, the cruisers generally kept at a sufficient +distance to allow of this being done. The runner would then crawl close +along the shore, and when as near as could be judged opposite the +entrance of the river, would show a light on the vessel's inshore side, +which was answered by a very indistinct light being shown on the beach, +close to the water's edge, and another at the background. These two +lights being got into a line was a proof that the opening was arrived +at; the vessels then steered straight in and anchored under the +Confederate batteries at Fort Fisher. More vessels were lost crawling +along this dangerous beach than were taken by the cruisers. I have seen +three burning at one time, for the moment a vessel struck she was set +fire to, to prevent the blockaders getting her off when daylight came. + +This system of evading the cruisers, however, having been discovered, it +was put a stop to by a very ingenious method, by which several vessels +were captured and an end put to that little game. Of course I can only +conjecture the way in which it was done, but it seemed to me to be +thus: At the extreme end of the line of blockaders lay one of them with +a kedge anchor, down so close to the shore that she left but a very +little space for the blockade-runner to pass between her and the beach. +The captain of the runner, however, trusting to his vessel's speed and +invisibility, dashed through this space, and having got by the cruiser +thought himself safe. Poor fellow! he was safe for a moment, but in such +a trap that his only chance of getting out of it was by running on shore +or giving up. For no sooner had he passed than up went a rocket from the +cruiser who had seen the runner rush by, and who now moved a little +further in towards the shore, so as to stop her egress by the way she +went in; and the other vessels closing round by a pre-arranged plan, the +capture or destruction of the blockade-runner was a certainty. + +Some of the captains most pluckily ran their vessels on shore, and +frequently succeeded in setting fire to them; but the boats of the +cruisers were sometimes too sharp in their movements to admit of this +being done, and the treatment of those who tried to destroy their +vessels was, I am sorry to say, very barbarous and unnecessary. +Moreover, men who endeavoured to escape by jumping overboard after the +vessel was on shore were often fired at by grape and shell, in what +seemed to me a very unjustifiable manner. Great allowance, however, must +be made for the men-of-war's men, who after many hard nights of dreary +watching constantly under weigh, saw their well-earned prize escaping by +being run on shore and set fire to, just as they imagined they had got +possession. On several occasions they have been content to tow the empty +shell of an iron vessel off the shore, her valuable cargo having been +destroyed by fire. + +But I have left my little craft lying as was stated about sixty miles +from the entrance of the river. I had determined to try a new method of +getting through the blockading squadron, seeing that the usual plan, as +described above, was no longer feasible or, at least, advisable. I have +mentioned that our position was well defined by observations and +soundings, so we determined to run straight through the blockaders, and +to take our chance. When it was quite dark we started steaming at full +speed. It was extremely thick on the horizon, but clear overhead, with +just enough wind and sea to prevent the little noise the engines and +screws made being heard. Every light was out--even the men's pipes; the +masts were lowered on to the deck; and if ever a vessel was invisible +the _D----n_ was that night. + +We passed several outlying cruisers, some unpleasantly near, but still +we passed them. All seemed going favourably, when suddenly I saw through +my glasses the long low line of a steamer right ahead, lying as it were +across our bows so close that it would have been impossible to pass to +the right or left of her without being seen. A prompt order given to the +engine-room (where the chief engineer stood to the engines) to reverse +one engine, was as promptly obeyed, and the little craft spun round like +a _teetotum_. If I had not seen it, I could never have believed it +possible that a vessel would have turned so rapidly, and (although, +perhaps, it is irrelevant to my subject) I cannot refrain from bearing +testimony to the wonderful powers of turning that are given to a vessel +by the application of Symond's turnscrews, as he loves to call them. On +this occasion £50,000 of property was saved to its owners. I do not +believe the cruiser saw us at all, and so very important to us was the +fact that we had turned in so short a space, that I scarcely think we +lost five yards of our position. Having turned we stopped to +reconnoitre, and could still see the faint outline of the cruiser +crawling (propelled, probably, only by the wind) slowly into the +darkness, leaving the way open to us, of which we at once took +advantage. It was now about one o'clock in the morning; our lead, and +an observation of a friendly star, told us that we were rapidly nearing +the shore. But it was so fearfully dark, that it seemed almost hopeless +ever to find our way to the entrance of the river, and no one felt +comfortable. Still we steamed slowly on and shortly made out a small +glimmer of a light right ahead. We eased steam a little, and cautiously +approached. + +As we got nearer, we could make out the outline of a vessel lying at +anchor, head to wind, and conjectured that this must be the senior +officer's vessel, which we were told generally lay about two miles and a +half from the river's mouth, and which was obliged to show some sort of +light to the cruisers that were constantly under weigh right and left of +her. The plan of finding out this light, and using it as a guide to the +river's entrance, being shortly after this time discovered, the vessel +that carried it was moved into a different position every night, whereby +several blockade-runners came to grief. + +Feeling pretty confident now of our position, we went on again at full +speed, and made out clearly the line of blockaders lying to the right +and left of the ship which showed the light; all excepting her being +apparently under weigh. Seeing an opening between the vessel at anchor +and the one on her left, we made a dash, and, thanks to our disguise and +great speed, got through without being seen, and made the most of our +way towards the land. As a strong current runs close inshore which is +constantly changing its course, and there were no lights or landmarks to +guide us, it was a matter of great difficulty to find the very narrow +entrance to the river. + +We were now nearly out of danger from cruisers, who seldom ventured very +close inshore in the vicinity of the batteries; and our pilot, who had +been throughout the voyage in bodily fear of an American prison, began +to wake up, and, after looking well round, told us that he could make +out, over the long line of surf, a heap of sand called 'the mound,' +which was a mark for going into the river. + +This good news emboldened us to show a small light from the inshore side +of the vessel; it was promptly answered by two lights being placed a +short distance apart on the beach, in such a position that, when the two +were brought into line, or, as the sailors call it, into one, the vessel +would be in the channel which led into the river. This being done +without interruption from the cruisers, we steamed in and anchored +safely under the batteries of Fort Fisher. + +Being now perfectly safe, lights were at once lit, supper and grog +served out _ad libitum_, everybody congratulated everybody, and a +feeling of comfort and jollity, such as can only be experienced after +three nights' and three days' intense anxiety, possessed us all. On the +morning breaking we counted twenty-five cruisers lying as near as they +dared venture off the river's mouth, and a very pleasant sight it was, +situated as we were. There was evidently a move among them of an unusual +kind; for the smaller vessels were steaming in towards the shore on the +north side, and the ships' launches, with guns in their bows, were +pulling about from vessel to vessel. The cause of it as day advanced was +but too apparent. + +Just out of range of Fort Fisher's heavy artillery, on the north side of +the river's entrance, a splendid paddle-wheel blockade-runner was lying +on the beach, having been run on shore during the night to avoid +capture. + +Her crew had evidently escaped to the shore, and a smouldering smoke +showed that she had been set fire to, and that a little wind was all +that was necessary to make the flames break out. The blockading ships do +not appear to have been aware of the damage they had done till daylight +discovered the vessel, that they probably thought had either got into +the river or escaped to sea, lying on the beach. However, they were not +slow in making preparations for capturing her, if possible. + +Meanwhile, two of the crew of the blockade-runner managed to get on +board of her, and setting her on fire in a dozen different places, +everything in the vessel was soon destroyed, and her red-hot sides made +boarding an impossibility. + +So the gunboats retired out of range, and the artillery with the +Whitworth guns returned to Fort Fisher. The shell of this vessel lay for +months on the beach and was by no means a bad mark for the +blockade-runners to steer by. + +Having witnessed this little bit of excitement and received on board the +crew of the stranded vessel, we took a pilot on board and steamed up the +Cape Clear river to Wilmington. + +It will be difficult to erase from my memory the excitement of the +evening we made our little craft fast alongside the quay at Wilmington; +the congratulations we received, the champagne cocktail we imbibed, the +eagerness with which we gave and received news, the many questions we +asked, such as, 'How long shall we be unloading?' 'Was our cargo of +cotton ready?' 'How many bales could we carry?' 'How other +blockade-runners had fared?' &c.; and the visits from thirsty and +hungry Southerners of all ranks and denominations, many of whom had not +tasted alcohol in any form for months, to whom whatever they liked to +eat or drink was freely given, accompanied by congratulations on all +sides. All these things, combined with the delightful feeling of +security from capture, and the glorious prospect of a good night's rest +in a four-poster, wound one up into an inexpressible state of jollity. +If some of us had a little headache in the morning, surely it was small +blame to us. Our host's cocktails, made of champagne bitters and pounded +ice, soon put all things to rights; and after breakfast we lounged down +to the quays on the river-side, which were piled mountains high with +cotton-bales and tobacco tierces, and mixed in the lively and busy scene +of discharging, selling, and shipping cargoes. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +EXCITING ADVENTURES. + + +I may now, I trust, without appearing egotistical, digress slightly from +the narrative to give an account of how I managed with my own private +venture, which I had personally to attend to; for it is scarcely +necessary to mention that in blockade-running everyone must look after +himself. If he does not his labour will have been in vain. + +Before leaving England I had met a Southern lady, who, on my inquiring +as to what was most needed by her compatriots in the beleaguered States, +replied curtly: 'Corsages, sir, I reckon.' So I determined to buy a lot +of the articles she referred to, and on arriving at Glasgow (the port +from which we originally started) I visited an emporium that seemed to +contain everything in the world; and I astonished a young fellow behind +the counter by asking for a thousand pairs of stays. Such an unusual +request sent him off like a rocket to higher authority, with whom I +made a bargain for the article required at one shilling and a penny per +pair, to be delivered the next day. At the same time I bought five +hundred boxes of Cockle's pills, and a quantity of toothbrushes. Well, +here I was in Wilmington, with all these valuables on my hands; the +corsages were all right, but the horrid little Cockles were bursting +their cerements and tumbling about my cabin in all directions. I was +anxious, with the usual gallantry of my cloth, to supply the wants of +the ladies first. The only specimens of the sex that I could see moving +about were coloured women, who were so little encumbered with dress that +I began to think I was mistaken in the article recommended by my lady +friend as being the most required out here. After waiting some time, and +no one coming to bid for my ware, I was meditating putting up on the +ship's side a large board with the name of the article of ladies' dress +written on it--a pillbox for a crest, and toothbrushes as +supporters--when an individual came on board and inquired whether I +wished 'to trade.' I greedily seized upon him, took him into my retreat, +and made him swallow three glasses of brandy in succession, after which +we commenced business. + +I will not trouble my reader with the way in which we traded; regarding +the corsages, suffice it to say that he bought them all at what seemed +to me the enormous price of twelve shillings each, giving me a profit of +nearly eleven hundred per cent. + +On my asking where the fair wearers of the article he had bought could +be seen, he told me that all the ladies had gone into the interior. I +hope they found my importations useful; they certainly were not +ornamental. + +Elated as I was by my success, I did not forget the Cockles, and gently +insinuated to my now somewhat excited friend that we might do a little +more trading. To my disgust he told me that he had never heard of such a +thing as Cockle's pills. I strongly urged him to try half-a-dozen, +assuring him that if he once experienced their invigorating effects he +would never cease to recommend them. But the ignorant fellow didn't seem +to see it; for, finishing his brandy and buttoning up his pockets, he +walked on shore. I never thought of naming toothbrushes, for what could +a man who had never heard of Cockles know of the luxury of toothbrushes? +So I sat quietly down, and began to sum up my profits on the _corsages_. + +I was deeply engaged in this occupation when I felt a heavy hand on my +shoulder. Turning round I saw my friend the trader, who, after having +smothered my boot in tobacco-juice, said, 'I say, captain, have you got +any coffin-screws on trade?' His question rather staggered me, but he +explained that they had no possible way of making this necessary article +in the Southern States, and that they positively could not keep the +bodies quiet in their coffins without them, especially when being sent +any distance for interment. As I had no acquaintance, I am happy to say, +with the sort of thing he wanted, it was agreed upon between us that I +should send to England for a quantity, he, on his part, promising an +enormous profit on their being delivered. + +I cannot help remarking on the very great inconvenience and distress +that were entailed on the South through the want of almost every +description of manufacture. The Southern States, having always been the +producing portion of the Union, had trusted to the North, and to Europe +for its manufactures. Thus, when they were shut out by land and by sea +from the outer world, their raw material was of but little service to +them. This fact tended, more than is generally believed, to weaken the +Southern people in the glorious struggle they made for what they called +and believed to be their rights,--a struggle, the horrors of which are +only half understood by those who were not eye-witnesses of it. Whether +the cause was good, whether armed secession was justifiable or not, is a +matter regarding which opinions differ. But it is undeniable that all +fought and endured in a manner worthy of a good and a just cause, and +many were thoroughly and conscientiously convinced it was so. Such men +as Lee, Stonewall Jackson, and others would never have joined any cause +against their convictions; but it won't do for a blockade-runner to +attempt to moralise. So to return to my story. + +My readers will be desirous of knowing what was the result of my +speculation in Cockles and toothbrushes. Regarding the former, I am +sorry to say that all my endeavours to induce my Southern friends to try +their efficacious powers were of no avail, so I determined to take them +with me to Nassau (if I could get there), thinking that I might find a +market at a place where everyone was bilious from over eating and +drinking, on the strength of the fortunes they were making by +blockade-running; and there I found an enterprising druggist who gave me +two chests of lucifer matches in exchange for my Cockles, which matches +I ultimately sold in the Confederacy at a very fair profit. My +toothbrushes being not in the slightest degree appreciated at +Wilmington, I sent them to Richmond, where they were sold at about seven +times their cost. + +So ended my speculation. The vessel's cargo consisted of blankets, +shoes, Manchester goods of all sorts, and some mysterious cases marked +'hardware,' about which no one asked any questions, but which the +military authorities took possession of. This cargo was landed, and +preparations made for taking on board THE paying article in this trade, +namely, cotton. + +I never bought it in any quantity, but I know that the price in the +Southern States averaged from twopence to threepence a pound, the price +in Liverpool at that time being about half-a-crown. + +We were anxious to try the luck of our run-out before the moon got +powerful, so the cargo was shipped as quickly as possible. In the first +place, the hold was stored by expert stevedores, the cotton-bales being +so closely packed that a mouse could hardly find room to hide itself +among them. The hatches were put on, and a tier of bales put fore and +aft in every available spot on the deck, leaving openings for the +approaches to the cabins, engine-room, and the men's forecastle; then +another somewhat thinner tier on the top of that, after which a few +bales for the captain and officers, those uncontrollable rascals whom +the poor agents could not manage, and the cargo was complete. Loaded in +this way, the vessel with only her foremast up, with her bow-funnel, and +grey-painted sides, looked more like a huge bale of cotton with a stick +placed upright at one end of it, than anything else I can think of. One +bale for----, and still one more for---- (I never tell tales out of +school), and all was ready. + +We left the quay at Wilmington cheered by the hurrahs of our brother +blockade-runners, who were taking in and discharging their cargoes, and +steamed a short distance down the river, when we were boarded to be +_searched_ and _smoked_. This latter extraordinary proceeding, called +for perhaps by the existing state of affairs, took me altogether aback. +That a smoking apparatus should be applied to a cargo of cotton seemed +almost astounding. But so it was ordered, the object being to search for +runaways, and, strange to say, its efficacy was apparent, when, after an +hour or more's application of the process (which was by no means a +gentle one), an unfortunate wretch, crushed almost to death by the +closeness of his hiding-place, poked with a long stick till his ribs +must have been like touchwood, and smoked the colour of a backwood +Indian, was dragged by the heels into the daylight, ignominiously put +into irons, and hurled into the guard-boat. This discovery nearly caused +the detention of the vessel on suspicion of our being the accomplices of +the runaway; but after some deliberation, we were allowed to go on. + +Having steamed down the river a distance of about twenty miles, we +anchored at two o'clock in the afternoon near its mouth. We were hidden +by Fort Fisher from the blockading squadron lying off the bar, there to +remain till some time after nightfall. After anchoring we went on shore +to take a peep at the enemy from the batteries. Its commandant, a fine, +dashing young Confederate officer, who was a firm friend to +blockade-runners, accompanied us round the fort. We counted twenty-five +vessels under weigh; some of them occasionally ventured within range; +but no sooner had one of them done so, than a shot was thrown so +unpleasantly near that she at once moved out again. + +We were much struck with the weakness of Fort Fisher, which, with a +garrison of twelve hundred men, and only half finished, could have been +easily taken at any time since the war began by a resolute body of five +thousand men making a night attack. It is true that at the time of its +capture it was somewhat stronger than at the time I visited it, but even +then its garrison was comparatively small, and its defences unfinished. +I fancy the bold front so long shown by its occupiers had much to do +with the fact that such an attack was not attempted till just before the +close of the war. The time chosen for our starting was eleven o'clock, +at which hour the tide was at its highest on the bar at the entrance of +the river. Fortunately the moon set about ten, and as it was very +cloudy, we had every reason to expect a pitch-dark night. There were two +or three causes that made one rather more nervous on this occasion than +when leaving Bermuda. + +In the first place, five minutes after we had crossed the bar, we should +be in the thick of the blockaders, who always closed nearer in on the +very dark nights. Secondly, our cargo of cotton was of more importance +than the goods we had carried in; and thirdly, it _was the thing to do_ +to make the double trip in and out safely. There were also all manner of +reports of the new plans that had been arranged by a zealous commodore +lately sent from New York to catch us all. However, it was of no use +canvassing these questions, so at a quarter to eleven we weighed anchor +and steamed down to the entrance of the river. + +Very faint lights, which could not be seen far at sea, were set on the +beach in the same position as I have before described, having been thus +placed for a vessel coming in; and bringing these astern in an exact +line, that is the two into one, we knew that we were in the passage for +going over the bar. The order was then given, 'Full speed ahead,' and we +shot at a great speed out to sea. + +Our troubles began almost immediately; for the cruisers had placed a +rowing barge, which could not be seen by the forts, close to the +entrance, to signalise the direction which any vessel that came out +might take. This was done by rockets being thrown up by a designed plan +from the barge. We had hardly cleared the bar when we saw this boat very +near our bows, nicely placed to be run clean over, and as we were going +about fourteen knots, her chance of escape would have been small had we +been inclined to finish her. Changing the helm, which I did myself, a +couple of spokes just took us clear. We passed so close that I could +have dropped a biscuit into the boat with ease. I heard the crash of +broken oars against our sides; not a word was spoken. + +I strongly suspect every man in that boat held his breath till the great +white avalanche of cotton, rushing by so unpleasantly near, had passed +quite clear of her. + +However, they seemed very soon to have recovered themselves, for a +minute had scarcely passed before up went a rocket, which I thought a +very ungrateful proceeding on their part. But they only did their duty, +and perhaps they did not know how nearly they had escaped being made +food for fishes. On the rocket being thrown up, a gun was fired +uncommonly close to us, but as we did not hear any shot, it may have +been only a signal to the cruisers to keep a sharp look-out. + +We steered a mile or two near the coast, always edging a little to the +eastward, and then shaped our course straight out to sea. Several guns +were fired in the pitch-darkness very near us. (I am not quite sure +whether some of the blockaders did not occasionally pepper each other.) +After an hour's fast steaming, we felt moderately safe, and by the +morning had a good offing. + +Daylight broke with thick, hazy weather, nothing being in sight. We went +on all right till half-past eight o'clock, when the weather cleared up, +and there was a large paddle-wheel cruiser (that we must have passed +very near to in the thick weather) about six miles astern of us. The +moment she saw us she gave chase. After running for a quarter of an hour +it was evident that with our heavy cargo on board, the cruiser had the +legs of us, and as there was a long day before us for the chase, things +looked badly. We moved some cotton aft to immerse our screws well; but +still the cruiser was steadily decreasing her distance from us, when an +incident of a very curious nature favoured us for a time. + +It is mentioned in the book of sailing directions, that the course of +the Gulf Stream (in the vicinity of which we knew we were) is in calm +weather and smooth water plainly marked out by a ripple on its inner and +outer edges. We clearly saw, about a mile ahead of us, a remarkable +ripple, which we rightly, as it turned out, conjectured was that +referred to in the book. As soon as we had crossed it, we steered the +usual course of the current of the Gulf Stream, that here ran from two +to three miles an hour. Seeing us alter our course, the cruiser did the +same; but she had _not_ crossed the ripple on the edge of the stream, +and the course she was now steering tended to keep her for some time +from doing so. The result soon made it evident that the observations in +the book were correct; for until she too crossed the ripple into the +stream, we dropped her rapidly astern, whereby we increased our distance +to at least seven miles. + +It was now noon, from which time the enemy again began to close with +us, and at five o'clock was not more than three miles distant. At six +o'clock she opened a harmless fire with the Parrot gun in her bow, the +shot falling far short of us. The sun set at a quarter to seven, by +which time she had got so near that she managed to send two or three +shots over us, and was steadily coming up. + +Luckily, as night came on, the weather became very cloudy, and we were +on the dark side of the moon, now setting in the West, which +occasionally breaking through the clouds astern of the cruiser, showed +us all her movements, while we must have been very difficult to make +out, though certainly not more than a mile off. All this time she kept +firing away, thinking, I suppose, that she would frighten us into +stopping. If we had gone straight on, we should doubtless have been +caught; so we altered our course two points to the eastward. After +steaming a short distance we stopped quite still, blowing off steam +under water, not a spark or the slightest smoke showing from the funnel; +and we had the indescribable satisfaction of seeing our enemy steam past +us, still firing ahead at some imaginary vessel. + +This had been a most exciting chase and a very narrow escape; night only +saved us from a New York prison. All this hard running had made an +awful hole in our coal-bunkers, and as it was necessary to keep a stock +for a run off the blockaded Bahama Islands, we were obliged to reduce +our expenditure to as small a quantity as possible. However we were well +out to sea, and after having passed the line of cruisers between +Wilmington and Bermuda, we had not much to fear till we approached the +British possessions of Nassau and the adjacent islands, where two or +three very fast American vessels were cruising, although five hundred +miles from American waters. I am ignorant, I confess, of the laws of +blockade, or indeed if a law there be that allows its enforcement, and +penalties to be enacted, five hundred miles away from the ports +blockaded. But it did seem strange that the men-of-war of a nation at +peace with England should be allowed to cruise off her ports, to stop +and examine trading vessels of all descriptions, to capture and send to +New York, for adjudication, vessels on the mere suspicion of their being +intended blockade-runners; and to chase and fire into real +blockade-runners so near to the shore that on one occasion the shot and +shell fell into a fishing village, and that within sight of an English +man-of-war lying at anchor in the harbour at Nassau. Surely it is time +that some well-understood laws should be made, and rules laid down, or +such doings will sooner or later recoil on their authors. + +Having so little coal on board, we determined on making for the nearest +point of the Bahama Islands, and luckily reached a queer little island +called Green Turtle Quay, on the extreme north of the group, where was a +small English colony, without being seen by the cruisers. We had not +been there long, however, before one of them came sweeping round the +shore, and stopped unpleasantly near to us; even though we were inside +the rock she hovered about outside, not a mile from us. + +We were a tempting bait, but a considerable risk to snap, and I suppose +the American captain could not quite make up his mind to capture a +vessel (albeit a blockade-runner piled full of cotton) lying in an +English port, insignificant though that port might be. We had got a +large white English ensign hoisted on a pole, thereby showing the +nationality of the rock, should the cruiser be inclined to question it. +After many longing looks, she steamed slowly away, much to our +satisfaction. Coals were sent to us from Nassau the next day, which +having been taken on board, we weighed anchor, keeping close to the +reefs and islands all the way. We steamed towards that port, and arrived +safely, having made the in-and-out voyage, including the time in +unloading and loading at Wilmington, in sixteen days. + +To attempt to describe at length the state of things at this usually +tranquil and unfrequented little spot is beyond my powers. I will only +mention some of its most striking features. Nassau differed much from +Wilmington, inasmuch as at the latter place there was a considerable +amount of poverty and distress, and men's minds were weighted with many +troubles and anxieties; whereas, at Nassau, everything at the time I +speak of was _couleur de rose_. Every one seemed prosperous and happy. +You met with calculating, far-seeing men who were steadily employed in +feathering their nests, let the war in America end as it might; others +who, in the height of their enthusiasm for the Southern cause, put their +last farthing into Confederate securities, anticipating enormous +profits; some men, careless and thoughtless, living for the hour, were +spending their dollars as fast as they made them, forgetting that they +would 'never see the like again.' There were rollicking captains and +officers of blockade-runners, and drunken swaggering crews; sharpers +looking out for victims; Yankee spies; and insolent worthless _free +niggers_--all these combined made a most heterogeneous, though +interesting, crowd. + +The inhabitants of Nassau, who, until the period of blockade-running, +had, with some exceptions, subsisted on a precarious and somewhat +questionable livelihood gained by wrecking, had their heads as much +turned as the rest of the world. Living was exorbitantly dear, as can be +well imagined, when the captain of a blockade-runner could realise in a +month a sum as large as the Governor's salary. The expense of living was +so great that the officers of the West India regiment quartered here had +to apply for special allowance, and I believe their application was +successful. The hotel, a large building, hitherto a most ruinous +speculation, began to realise enormous profits. In fact, the almighty +dollar was spent as freely as the humble cent had been before this +golden era in the annals of Nassau. + +As we had to stay here till the time for the dark nights came round +again, we took it easy, and thoroughly enjoyed all the novelty of the +scene. Most liberal entertainment was provided free by our owner's +agent, and altogether we found Nassau very jolly: so much so, that we +felt almost sorry when 'time' was called, and we had to prepare for +another run. In fact, it was pleasanter in blockade-running to look +backwards than forwards, especially if one had been so far in good luck. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +A VISIT TO CHARLESTON. + + +All being ready, we steamed out of Nassau harbour, and were soon again +in perilous waters. We had a distant chase now and then--a mere child's +play to us after our experience--and on the third evening of our voyage +we were pretty well placed for making a run through the blockading +squadron as soon as it was dark. As the moon rose at twelve o'clock, it +was very important that we should get into port before she threw a light +upon the subject. + +Unfortunately, we were obliged to alter our course or stop so often to +avoid cruisers that we ran our time too close; for, as we were getting +near to the line of blockade, a splendid three-quarter-size moon rose, +making everything as clear as day. Trying to pass through the line of +vessels ahead with such a bright light shining would have been madness; +in fact, it was dangerous to be moving about at all in such clear +weather, so we steamed towards the land on the extreme left of the line +of cruisers, and having made it out, went quite close inshore and +anchored. + +By lying as close as we dare to the beach, we must have had the +appearance of forming part of the low sand-hills, which were about the +height and colour of the vessel; the wood on their tops forming a +background which hid the small amount of funnel and mast that showed +above the decks. We must have been nearly invisible, for we had scarcely +been an hour at anchor when a gun-boat came steaming along the shore +very near to the beach; and while we were breathlessly watching her, +hoping that she would go past, she dropped anchor alongside of us, a +little outside where we were lying--so close that we not only heard +every order that was given on board, but could almost make out the +purport of the ordinary conversation of the people on her decks. A +pistol shot would have easily reached us. Our position was most +unpleasant, to say the least of it. We could not stay where we were, as +it only wanted two hours to daybreak. If we had attempted to weigh +anchor, we must have been heard doing so. However, we had sufficient +steam at command to make a run for it. So, after waiting a little to +allow the cruiser's fires to get low, we knocked the pin out of the +shackle of the chain on deck, and easing the cable down into the water, +went ahead with one engine and astern with the other, to turn our vessel +round head to seaward. + +Imagine our consternation when, as she turned, she struck the shore +before coming half round (she had been lying with her head inshore, so +now it was pointed along the beach, luckily in the right direction, i.e. +lying from the cruiser). There was nothing left to us but to put on full +speed, and if possible force her from the obstruction, which after two +or three hard bumps we succeeded in doing. + +After steaming quite close to the beach for a little way, we stopped to +watch the gun-boat, which, after resting for an hour or so, weighed +anchor and steamed along the beach in the opposite direction to the way +we had been steering, and was soon out of sight. So we steamed a short +distance inshore and anchored again. It would have been certain capture +to have gone out to sea just before daybreak, so we made the little +craft as invisible as possible, and remained all the next day, trusting +to our luck not to be seen. And our luck favoured us; for, although we +saw several cruisers at a distance, none noticed us, which seems almost +miraculous. + +Thus passed Christmas Day, 1863, and an anxious day it was to all of +us. We might have landed our cargo where we were lying, but it would +have been landed in a dismal swamp, and we should have been obliged to +go into Wilmington for our cargo of cotton. + +When night closed in we weighed anchor and steamed to the entrance of +the river, which, from our position being so well defined, we had no +difficulty in making out. We received a broadside from a savage little +gun-boat quite close inshore, her shot passing over us, and that was +all. We got comfortably to the anchorage about half-past eleven o'clock, +and so ended our second journey in. + +I determined this time to have a look at Charleston, which was then +undergoing a lengthened and destructive siege. So, after giving over my +craft into the hands of the owner's representatives, who would unload +and put her cargo of cotton on board, I took my place in the train and, +after passing thirty-six of the most miserable hours in my life +travelling the distance of one hundred and forty miles, I arrived at the +capital of South Carolina, or rather near to that city--for the train, +disgusted I suppose with itself, ran quietly off the line about two +miles from the station into a meadow. The passengers seemed perfectly +contented, and shouldering their baggage walked off into the town. I +mechanically followed with my portmanteau, and in due course arrived at +the only hotel, where I was informed I might have half a room. + +Acting on a hint I received from a black waiter that food was being +devoured in the coffee-room, and that if I did not look out for myself I +should have to do without that essential article for the rest of the +day, I hurried into the _salle-à -manger_, where two long tables were +furnished with all the luxuries then to be obtained in Charleston, which +luxuries consisted of lumps of meat supposed to be beef, boiled Indian +corn, and I think there were the remains of a feathered biped or two, to +partake of which I was evidently too late. All these washed down with +water, or coffee without sugar, were not very tempting; but human nature +must be supported, so to it I set, and having swallowed a sufficient +quantity of animal food, I went off to my room to take a pull at a +bottle of brandy which I had sagaciously stored in my carpet-bag. But, +alas! for the morals of the beleaguered city. I found, on arriving +there, a nigger extended at full length in happy oblivion on the floor, +with the few clothes I had with me forming his pillow, and the brandy +bottle rolling about alongside of him, empty. + +I first of all hammered his head against the floor, but the floor had +the worst of it; then I kicked his shins (the only vulnerable part of a +nigger), but it was of no use; so pouring the contents of a water jug +over him, in the hope that I might thus cause awful dreams to disturb +his slumbers, I left him, voting myself a muff for leaving the key in my +box. + +Having letters of introduction to some of General Beauregard's staff, I +made my way to headquarters, where I met with the greatest courtesy and +kindness. An orderly was sent with me to show me the top of the tower, a +position that commanded a famous view of the besieging army, the +blockading squadron, and all the defences of the place. A battery had +just been placed by the enemy (consisting of five Parrot guns of heavy +calibre) five miles from the town, and that day had opened fire for the +first time. At that enormous range the shell occasionally burst over or +fell into the city, doing, however, little damage. The elevation of the +guns must have been unusually great. I am told that every one of them +burst after a week's, or thereabouts, firing. Poor Fort Sumter was +nearly silenced after many months' hammering, but its brave defenders +remained in it to the last, and it was not till a few days before +Charleston was abandoned that they gave it up. At the time I speak of +the whole of the western beach was in the hands of the enemy, Battery +Wagner having succumbed after one of the most gallant defences on +record. While it remained in the hands of the Southerners it assisted +Fort Sumter, inasmuch as from its position it kept the enemy at a +distance, but after its capture, or rather destruction, the latter fort +was exposed to a tremendous fire from ships and batteries, and its solid +front was terribly crumbled. + +Surrounded, however, with water as it was, it would have been most +difficult to take by assault; and from what I could learn, certain +destruction would have met any body of men who had attempted it +latterly. There it stood, sulkily firing a shot or shell now and then, +more out of defiance than anything else. The blockading, or rather +bombarding, squadron was lying pretty near to it on the western side of +the entrance to the harbour; but on the east side, formidable batteries +belonging to the Southerners kept them at a respectable distance. +Blockade-running into Charleston was quite at an end at the time I am +writing about. Not that I think the cruisers could have kept vessels +from getting in, but for the reason that the harbour was a perfect +network of torpedoes and infernal machines (the passage through which +was only known to a few persons), placed by the Southerners to prevent +the Northern fleet from approaching the city. + +Having had a good look at the positions of the attacking and defending +parties, I went down from the tower and paid a visit to a battery where +two Blakely guns of heavy calibre, that had lately been run through the +blockade in the well-known 'Sumter' (now the 'Gibraltar'), were mounted. +These guns threw a shot of 720 lbs. weight, and were certainly +masterpieces of design and execution. Unhappily, proper instructions for +loading had not accompanied them from England, and on the occasion of +the first round being fired from one of them, the gun not being properly +loaded, cracked at the breech, and was rendered useless; the other, +however, did good service, throwing shot with accuracy at great +distances. I saw much that was interesting here, but more able pens than +mine have already described fully the details of that long siege, where +on one hand all modern appliances of war that ingenuity could conceive +or money purchase were put into the hands of brave and determined +soldiers; on the other hand were bad arms, bad powder, bad provisions, +bad everything; desperate courage and unheard-of self-denial being all +the Southerners had to depend upon. + +These poor Southerners never began to open their eyes to the +hopelessness of their cause till Sherman's almost unopposed march showed +the weakness of the whole country. Even strangers like myself were so +carried away with the enthusiasm of the moment, that we shut our eyes to +what should have been clearly manifest to us. We could not believe that +men who were fighting and enduring as these men were could ever be +beaten. Some of their leaders must have foreseen that the catastrophe +was coming months before it occurred; but, if they did so, they were +afraid to make their opinion public. + +On returning to the hotel, I found it full of people of all classes +indulging in tobacco (the only solace left them) in every form. It is +all very well to say that smoking is a vile habit; so it may be, when +indulged in by luxurious fellows who eat and drink their full every day, +and are rarely without a cigar or pipe in their mouths; it may, perhaps, +be justly said that such men abuse the use of the glorious narcotic +supplied by Providence for men's consolation under difficulties. But +when a man has hard mental and bodily work, and barely enough food to +support nature, water being his only drink, then give him tobacco, and +he will thoroughly appreciate it. Besides, it will do him real good. I +think that at any time its use in moderation is harmless and often +beneficial, but under the circumstances I speak of it is a luxury +without price. + +During the evening I met at the hotel a Confederate naval officer who +was going to attempt that night to carry havoc among the blockading +squadron by means of a cigar-shaped vessel of a very curious +description. + +This vessel was a screw steamer of sixty feet in length, with eight feet +beam. She lay, before being prepared for the important service on which +she was going, with about two feet of her hull showing above the water, +at each end of which, on the shoulder as it were of the cigar, was a +small hatch or opening, just large enough to allow a man to pop through +it: from her bows projected a long iron outrigger, at the end of which +there was fixed a torpedo that would explode on coming into contact with +a vessel's side. + +When the crew were on board, and had gone down into the vessel through +one of the hatches above mentioned, the said hatches were firmly closed, +and by arrangements that were made from the inside the vessel was sunk +about six inches below the water, leaving merely a small portion of the +funnel showing. Steam and smoke being got rid of below water, the vessel +was invisible, torpedo and all being immersed. + +The officer having thus described his vessel, wished me good-night, and +started on his perilous enterprise. I met him again next evening quietly +smoking his pipe. I eagerly asked him what he had done, when he told me +with the greatest _sang-froid_ that he had gone on board his vessel with +a crew of seven men; that everything for a time had gone like clockwork; +they were all snug below with hatches closed, the vessel was sunk to the +required depth, and was steadily steaming down the harbour, apparently +perfectly water-tight, when suddenly the sea broke through the foremost +hatch and she went to the bottom immediately. He said he did not know +how he escaped. He imagined that after the vessel had filled he had +managed to escape through the aperture by which the water got in; all +the rest of the poor fellows were drowned. Not that my friend seemed to +think anything of that, for human life was very little thought of in +those times. This vessel was afterwards got up, when the bodies of her +crew were still in her hold. I imagined that the vessel contained +sufficient air to enable her to remain under water two or three hours, +or maybe some method was practised by which air could be introduced by +the funnel; at all events, had she been successful on that night, she +would undoubtedly have caused a good deal of damage and loss to the +blockading squadron, who were constantly harassed by all sorts of +infernal machines, torpedoes, fire-vessels, &c., which were sent out +against them by ingenious Southerners, whose fertile imaginations were +constantly conceiving some new invention. + +On the next occasion that same enterprising officer was employed on a +similar enterprise, his efforts were crowned with complete success. + +He started one dark night, in a submerged vessel of the same kind as +that above described, and exploded the torpedo against the bows of one +of the blockading squadron, doing so much damage that the vessel had to +be run on shore to prevent her sinking. + +I must, before finishing my account of what I saw and did in Charleston, +mention a circumstance that showed how little the laws of _meum_ and +_tuum_ are respected during war times. The morning before I left, I had +a fancy for having my coat brushed and my shoes polished. So having +deposited these articles on a chair at the door of my room, I went to +bed again to have another snooze, hoping to find them cleaned when I +awoke. After an hour or so I got up to dress, and rang the bell several +times without getting any answer. So I opened the door and looked out +into the passage. To my surprise I saw an individual sitting on the +chair on which I had put my clothes, trying on one of my boots. He had +succeeded in getting it half on when it had stuck, and at the time I +discovered him he seemed to be in a fix, inasmuch as he could neither +get the boot off nor on. He was struggling violently with my poor boot, +as if it were his personal enemy, and swearing like a trooper. Not +wishing to increase his ire, I blandly insinuated that the boots were +mine, on which he turned his wrath towards me, making most unpleasant +remarks, which he wound up by saying that in these times anything that a +man could pick up lying about was his lawful property, and that he was +astonished at my impudence in asking for the boots. However, as the +darned things would not fit him 'no how,' he guessed I was welcome to +them; and giving a vicious tug to the boot to get it off, he succeeded +in doing so, and I, picking it up with its fellow, made good my retreat. +But where was my coat? I could not get an echo of an answer, where? So I +went downstairs and told my piteous tale to the landlord, who laughed at +my troubles, and told me he could not give me the slightest hopes of +ever seeing it again; but he offered to lend me a garment in which to +travel to Wilmington, which offer I gladly accepted. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +NEVER CAUGHT! + + +On my return to Wilmington I found that my vessel was ready for sea, so +I took charge of her, and we went down the river. + +We had to undergo the same ordeal as before in the way of being smoked +and searched. This time there were no runaways discovered, but there was +one on board for all that, who made his appearance, almost squashed to +death, after we had been twenty-four hours at sea. We then anchored +under Fort Fisher, where we waited until it was dark, after which, when +the tide was high enough on the bar, we made a move and were soon +rushing out to sea at full speed. There was a considerable swell +running, which we always considered a point in our favour. By the way, +writing of swells puts me in mind of a certain 'swell' I had on board as +passenger on this occasion, who, while in Wilmington, had been talking +very big about 'hunting,' which probably he supposed I knew nothing +about. He used to give us long narratives of his own exploits in the +hunting-field, and expatiated on the excitement of flying over ditches +and hedges, while apparently he looked upon blockade-running and its +petty risks with sublime contempt. Soon after we crossed the bar on our +way out a gentle breeze and swell began to lift the vessel up and down, +and this motion he described as 'very like hunting.' + +Just after he had ventured this remark, a Yankee gun-boat favoured us +with a broadside and made a dash to cut us off. This part of the fun, +however, my friend did not seem to think at all 'like hunting,' and +after having strongly urged me to return to the anchorage under the +protecting guns of the fort, he disappeared below, and never talked, to +me at least, about hunting again. + +But to return to my story, there was, as I said before, a considerable +swell running outside, which was fortunate for us, as we ran almost into +a gunboat lying watching unusually close to the bar. It would have been +useless to turn round and endeavour to escape by going back, as, if we +had done so, we should inevitably have been driven on to the beach, and +either captured or destroyed. In such a predicament there was nothing +for it but to make a dash past and take the gun-boat's fire and its +consequences. I knew we had the legs of her, and therefore felt more at +ease in thus running the gauntlet than I otherwise should have done, so +on we went at full speed. She fired her broadside at about fifty yards +distance, but the shot all passed over us, except one that went through +our funnel. The marines on board of her kept up a heavy fire of musketry +as long as we were visible, but only slightly wounded one of our men. +Rockets were then thrown up as signals to her consorts, two of which +came down on us, but luckily made a bad guess at our position, and +closed with us on our quarter instead of our bow. They also opened fire, +but did us no injury. At the moment there was no vessel in sight ahead; +and as we were going at a splendid pace, we soon reduced our dangerous +companions to three or four shadowy forms struggling astern without a +hope of catching us. The signalising and firing had, however, brought +several other blockaders down to dispute our passage, and we found +ourselves at one moment with a cruiser on each side within a pistol shot +of us; our position being that of the meat in a sandwich. So near were +the cruisers, that they seemed afraid to fire from the danger of hitting +each other, and, thanks to our superior speed, we shot ahead and left +them without their having fired a shot. + +Considering the heavy swell that was running, there was the merest +chance of their hitting us; in fact, to take a blockade-runner in the +night, when there was a heavy swell or wind, if she did not choose to +give in, was next to impossible. To run her down required the cruiser to +have much superior speed, and was a dangerous game to play, for vessels +have been known to go down themselves while acting that part. + +Then, again, it must be borne in mind that the blockade-runner had +always full speed at command, her steam being at all times well up and +every one on board on the look-out; whereas the man-of-war must be +steaming with some degree of economy and ease, and her look-out men had +not the excitement to keep them always on the _qui vive_ that we had. + +I consider that the only chances the blockading squadron had of +capturing a blockade-runner were in the following instances; viz., in a +fair chase in daylight, when superior speed would tell, or chasing her +on shore, or driving her in so near the beach that her crew were driven +to set fire to her and make their escape; in which case a prize might be +made, though perhaps of no great value; or frightening a vessel by guns +and rockets during the night into giving up. Some of the +blockade-runners showed great pluck, and stood a lot of pitching into. +About sixty-six vessels left England and New York to run the blockade +during the four years' war, of which more than forty were destroyed by +their own crews or captured; but most of them made several runs before +they came to grief, and in so doing paid well for their owners. + +I once left Bermuda, shortly before the end of the war, in company with +four others, and was the only fortunate vessel of the lot. Of the other +four, three were run on shore and destroyed by their own crews, and one +was fairly run down at sea and captured. + +I saw an extraordinarily plucky thing done on one occasion, which I +cannot refrain from narrating. We had made a successful run through the +blockade, and were lying under Fort Fisher, when as daylight broke we +heard a heavy firing, and as it got lighter we saw a blockade-runner +surrounded by the cruisers. Her case seemed hopeless, but on she came +for the entrance, hunted like a rabbit by no end of vessels. The guns of +the fort were at once manned, ready to protect her as soon as her +pursuers should come within range. Every effort was made to cut her off +from the entrance of the river, and how it was she was not sunk I cannot +tell. As she came on we could see N----, her commander, a well-known +successful blockade-runner, standing on her paddle-box with his hat off, +as if paying proper respect to the men-of-war. And now the fort opened +fire at the chasing cruisers, from whom the blockade-runner was +crawling, being by this time well inshore. One vessel was evidently +struck, as she dropped out of range very suddenly. On came the 'Old +J----,' one of the fastest boats in the trade, and anchored all right; +two or three shots in her hull, but no hurt. Didn't we cheer her! the +reason of her being in the position in which we saw her at daylight was +that she had run the time rather short, and daylight broke before she +could get into the river; so that, instead of being there, she was in +the very centre of the blockading fleet. Many men would have given in, +but old N---- was made of different stuff. + +We got well clear of the cruisers before daybreak, and keeping far out +to sea, were unmolested during the run to Nassau, where we arrived +safely with our second cargo of cotton, having this time been eighteen +days making the round trip. + +Having made two round trips, we could afford to take it easy for a +short time, and as the dark nights would not come on for three weeks, we +gave the little craft a thorough refit, hauling her up on a patent slip +that an adventurous American had laid down especially for +blockade-runners, and for the use of which we had to pay a price which +would have astonished some of our large ship-owners. I may mention that +blockade-runners always lived well; may be acting on the principle that +'good people are scarce'; so we kept a famous table and drank the best +of wine. An English man-of-war was lying in the harbour, whose officers +frequently condescended to visit us, and whose mouths watered at what +they saw and heard of the profits and pleasures of blockade-running. +Indeed, putting on one side the sordid motives which I dare say to a +certain extent actuated us, there was a thrilling and glorious +excitement about the work, which would have well suited some of these +gay young fellows. + +Time again came round too soon, and we had to start on another trip, and +to tear ourselves away from all sorts of amusements, some of us from +domestic ties: for there were instances of anxious wives who, having +followed their husbands to the West Indies, vastly enjoyed all the +novelty of the scene. These ladies had their pet ships, in whose +captains they had confidence, and in which they sent private ventures +into the Confederacy; and in this way some of them made a nice little +addition to their pin-money. I don't know that any of them speculated in +Cockle's pills or corsages, but I heard of one lady who sent in a large +quantity of yellow soap, and made an enormous profit out of her venture. + +Having completed the necessary alterations and repairs, and made all +snug for a fresh run, we started again from the port of Nassau. We had +scarcely steamed along the coast forty miles from the mouth of the +harbour, when we discovered a steamer bearing down on us, and we soon +made her out to be a well-known, very fast Yankee cruiser, of whom we +were all terribly afraid. As we were still in British waters, skirting +the shore of the Bahamas, I determined not to change my course, but kept +steadily on, always within a mile of the shore. On the man-of-war firing +a shot across our bows as a signal for us to heave to, I hoisted the +English colours and anchored. An American officer came on board, who, +seeing unmistakable proofs of the occupation we were engaged in, seemed +very much inclined to make a prize of us; but on my informing him that I +claimed exemption from capture on the ground of the vessel being in +British waters, he, after due consideration, sulkily wished me good +morning and went back to his ship. She continued to watch us till the +middle of the night, when I imagine something else attracted her +attention, and she steamed away. We, taking advantage of her temporary +absence, weighed our anchor and were soon far out at sea. + +At the end of three days we had run into a position about sixty miles +from Wilmington without any incident happening worth mentioning. On our +nearing the blockading squadron at nightfall we heard a great deal of +firing going on inshore, which we conjectured (rightly as it afterwards +appeared) was caused by the American ships, who were chasing and +severely handling a blockade-runner. An idea at once struck me, which I +quickly put into execution. We steamed in as fast as we could, and soon +made out a vessel ahead that was hurrying in to help her consorts to +capture or destroy the contraband. We kept close astern of her, and in +this position followed the cruiser several miles. She made signals +continually by flashing different coloured lights rapidly from the +paddle-boxes, the meaning of which I tried my best to make out, so that +I might be able to avail myself of the knowledge of the blockade signals +at some future time; but I could not manage to make head or tail of +them. + +Suddenly the firing ceased, and our pioneer turned out to sea again. As +we were by this time very near inshore, we stopped the engines and +remained quite still, but unluckily could not make out our exact +position. + +The blockading cruisers were evidently very close in, so we did not like +moving about; besides, the pilot was confident that we were close enough +to the entrance of the river to enable us to run in when day broke, +without being in any danger from the enemy. + +Thus for the remainder of the night we lay quite close to the beach. +Unfortunately, however, about an hour before daylight we struck the +shore, and all our efforts to free the vessel were of no avail. + +As the day dawned we found that we were about a mile from Fort Fisher, +and that two of the American vessels nearest the shore were about a mile +from us when we first made them out, and were steaming to seaward, +having probably been lying pretty near to the river's mouth during the +darkness of the night. They were not slow to make us out in our unhappy +position. I ordered the boats to be lowered, and gave every one on board +the option of leaving the vessel, as it seemed evident that we were +doomed to be a bone of contention between the fort and the blockaders. +All hands, however, stuck to the ship, and we set to work to lighten her +as much as possible. Steam being got up to the highest pressure, the +engines worked famously, but she would not move, and I feared the sand +would get into the bilges. And now a confounded vessel deliberately +tried the range with her Parrot gun, and the shot splashed alongside of +us. Her fire, however, was promptly replied to by Fort Fisher. The shot +from the fort's heavy artillery passed right over and close to the +cruiser, and made her move further out, and thus spoiled the accuracy of +the range of our devoted little craft, which the man-of-war had so +correctly obtained. We made a frantic effort to get off our sandy bed, +and on all hands running from one extremity of the vessel to the other, +to our delight she slipped off into deep water. + +But our troubles were not yet over. To get into the river's mouth it was +necessary to make a _détour_, to do which we had to steer out towards +the blockading fleet for a quarter of a mile before we could turn to go +into the river. While we were performing this somewhat ticklish +manÅ“uvre, Fort Fisher most kindly opened a heavy fire from all its guns, +and thus drew the attention of the blockaders from us. In twenty +minutes from the time we got off we were safely at anchor under the +Confederate batteries. The vessel that had been so hard chased and fired +at during the night was lying safely at the anchorage, not very much +damaged. + +This was by far the most anxious time we had gone through. We had to +thank the commandant and garrison of Fort Fisher for our escape. Having +paid our gallant rescuers a visit, we took a pilot on board and steamed +up to Wilmington. Cape Clear river at this time was full of all sorts of +torpedoes and obstructions, put down to prevent any gun-boats from +approaching the town of Wilmington, should the forts at its entrance be +taken possession of by the enemy. And as the whereabouts of these +obstructions were only known to certain pilots, we had to be careful to +have the right man on board. We got up in safety, and finding that our +cargo of cotton was ready, made haste to unload and prepare for sea +again as quickly as possible. + +There was nothing interesting in Wilmington, which is a large straggling +town built on sand-hills. At the time I write of the respectable +inhabitants were nearly all away from their homes, and the town was full +of adventurers of all descriptions; some who came to sell cotton, others +to buy at enormous prices European goods brought in by +blockade-runners. These goods they took with them into the interior, +and, adding a heavy percentage to the price, people who were forced to +buy them paid most ruinous prices for the commonest necessaries of life. + +On this occasion we spent a very short time at Wilmington, and having +taken our cargo of cotton, we went down the river to the old waiting +place under the friendly batteries of Fort Fisher. We had scarcely +anchored when a heavy fog came on; as the tide for going over the bar +did not suit till three o'clock in the morning, which I considered an +awkward time, inasmuch as we should only have two hours of darkness left +in which to get our offing from the land, I determined to go out in the +fog and take my chance of the thick weather lasting. I calculated that +if we had met with any cruisers, they would not have been expecting us, +and so would have been under low steam. + +I was told by every one that I was mad to venture out, and all sorts of +prognostications were made that I should come to grief, in spite of +which omens of disaster, however, I went over the bar at four o'clock in +the afternoon in a fog, through which I could hardly see from one end of +the ship to the other, and took my chance. As we went on the fog seemed +to get if possible still thicker, and through the night it was +impossible for us to see anything or anything to see us. + +In the morning we had an offing of at least a hundred and twenty miles, +and nothing was in sight. We made a most prosperous voyage, and arrived +at Nassau safely in seventy-two hours, thus completing our third round +trip. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +LAST DAYS ON THE 'D----N.' + + +As no vessel had succeeded since the blockade was established in getting +into Savannah (a large and flourishing town in Georgia, situated a few +miles up a navigable river of the same name), where there was a famous +market for all sorts of goods, and where plenty of the finest sea-island +cotton was stored ready for embarkation, and as the southern port pilots +were of opinion that all that was required to ensure success was an +effort to obtain it, I undertook to try if we could manage to get the +'D----n' in. + +The principal difficulty we had to contend with was that the Northerners +had possession of a large fortification called Pulaski, which, being +situated at the entrance of the river, commanded the passage up to the +town. + +To pass this place in the night seemed easy work enough, as it would be +hard for the sentry to make a vessel out disguised as we were; but to +avoid the shoals and sand-banks at the river's mouth, in a pitch-dark +night, seemed to me, after carefully studying the chart, to be a most +difficult matter. This, however, was the pilot's business; all we +captains had to do was to avoid dangers from the guns of ships and +forts; or, if we could not avoid them, to stand being fired at. + +The pilot we had engaged was full of confidence; so much so, that he +refused to have any payment for his services until he had taken us in +and out safely. I may as well mention that there were few if any +blockading vessels off Savannah river, the Northerners having perfect +confidence, I presume, in Fort Pulaski and the shoals which surrounded +the entrance of the river being sufficient to prevent any attempt at +blockade-running succeeding. The lights in the ship off Port Royal, a +small harbour in the hands of the Northern Government, a few miles from +the entrance to Savannah, were as bright as in the time of peace, and +served as a capital guide to the river's mouth. After two days' run from +Nassau we arrived without accident to within twenty miles of the low +land through which the Savannah river runs, and at dark steered for the +light-vessel lying off Port Royal. Having made it out, in fact steaming +close up to it, we shaped our course for Fort Pulaski, using the light +as a point of departure, the distance by the chart being twelve miles. +We soon saw its outlines looming through the darkness ahead, and +formidable though it looked, it caused me no anxiety, compared with the +danger we seemed to be in from the shoalwater and breakers being all +around us. However, the pilot who had charge of such matters seemed +comfortable enough. + +So we went cautiously along, and in ten minutes would have been past +danger, at all events from the batteries on the fort, when one of the +severest storms I ever remember of wind and rain, accompanied by thunder +and lightning, came on, and enveloped us in a most impenetrable +darkness. Knowing that we were surrounded by most dangerous shoals, and +being then in only fifteen feet water, I felt our position to be a very +perilous one. The pilot had by this time pretty well lost his head; in +fact, it would have puzzled anyone to say where we were. So we turned +round and steered out to sea again, by the same way we had come in; and +when we were as near as we could guess twenty miles from land, we let go +our anchor in fifteen fathoms water. + +Then came on a heavy gale of wind accompanied by a thick fog, which +lasted three days and nights. I never in my life passed such an +unpleasant time, rolling our gunnels under, knowing that we were +drifting, our anchor having dragged, but in what direction it was +difficult to judge; unable to cook, through the sea we had shipped +having put our galley-fire out; and, worse than all, burning quantities +of coal, as we had to keep steam always well up, ready for anything that +might happen. + +One day it cleared up for half an hour about noon, and we managed to get +meridian observations, which showed us that we had drifted thirty miles +of latitude, but we still remained in ignorance of our longitude. On the +fourth day the gale moderated, the weather cleared up, and we +ascertained our position correctly by observations. + +When it was dark we steered for the light-vessel off Port Royal, +meaning, as before, to make her our point of departure for the entrance +of the river. But we went on and on, and we could not see the glimmer of +a light or even anything of a vessel (we found out afterwards that the +light-ship had been blown from her moorings in the gale). This was a +nice mess. The pilot told us that to attempt to run for the entrance +without having the bearings of the light to guide us would have been +perfect madness. We had barely enough coals to take us back to Nassau, +and if we had remained dodging about, waiting for the light-vessel to be +replaced, we should have been worse off for fuel, of which we had so +little that if we had been chased on our way back we should certainly +have been captured. + +So we started for Nassau, keeping well in shore on the Georgia and +Florida coast. Along this coast there were many small creeks and rivers +where blockade-running in small crafts, and even boats, was constantly +carried on, and where the Northerners had stationed several brigs and +schooners of war, who did the best they could to stop the traffic. Many +an open boat has run over from the northernmost island of the Bahamas +group, a distance of fifty miles, and returned with one or two bales of +cotton, by which her crew were well remunerated. + +We had little to fear from sailing men-of-war, as the weather was calm +and fine, so we steamed a few miles from the shore, all day passing +several of them, just out of range of their guns. One vessel tried the +effect of a long shot, but we could afford to laugh at her. + +The last night we spent at sea was rather nervous work. We had reduced +our coals to about three-quarters of a ton, and had to cross the Gulf +Stream at the narrow part between the Florida coast and the Bahamas, a +distance of twenty-eight miles, where the force of the current is four +knots an hour. Our coals were soon finished. We cut up the available +spars, oars, &c., burnt a hemp cable (that by the way made a capital +blaze), and just managed to fetch across to the extreme western end of +the group of islands belonging to Great Britain, where we anchored. + +We couldn't have steamed three miles further. On the wild spot where we +anchored there was fortunately a small heap of anthracite coal, that +probably had been part of the cargo of some wreck, of which we took as +much as would carry us to Nassau, and arrived there safely. Thus the +attempt to get into Savannah was a failure. It was tried once afterwards +by a steamer which managed to get well past the fort, but which stuck on +a sand-bank shortly after doing so, and was captured in the morning. + +It is not my intention to inflict on my readers any more anecdotes of my +own doings in the 'D----n;' suffice it to say that I had the good luck +to make six round trips in her, in and out of Wilmington, and that I +gave her over to the chief officer and went home to England with my +spoils. On arriving at Southampton, the first thing I saw in the 'Times' +was a paragraph headed, 'The Capture of the "D----n."' Poor little +craft! I learned afterwards how she was taken, which I will relate, and +which will show that she died game. + +The officer to whom I gave over charge was as fine a specimen of a +seaman as well can be imagined, plucky, cool, and determined, and by the +way he was a bit of a medico, as well as a sailor; for by his beneficial +treatment of his patients we had very few complaints of sickness on +board. As our small dispensary was close to my cabin, I used to hear the +conversation that took place between C---- and his patients. I will +repeat one. + +_C._ 'Well, my man, what's the matter with you?' + +_Patient._ 'Please, sir, I've got pains all over me.' + +_C._ 'Oh, all over you, are they; that's bad.' + +Then, during the pause, it was evident something was being mixed up, and +I could hear C---- say: 'Here, take this, and come again in the +evening.' (Exit patient.) Then C. said to himself: 'I don't think he'll +come again; he has got two drops of the croton. Skulking rascal, pains +all over him, eh!' I never heard the voice of that patient again; in +fact, after a short time we had no cases of sickness on board. C---- +explained to me that the only medicine he served out, as he called it, +was _croton oil_; and that none of the crew came twice for treatment. + +Never having run through the blockade as the commander of a vessel +(though he was with me all the time and had as much to do with our luck +as I had), he was naturally very anxious to get safely through. There +can be no doubt that the vessel had lost much of her speed, for she had +been very hardly pushed on several occasions. This told sadly against +her, as the result will show. On the third afternoon after leaving +Nassau she was in a good position for attempting the run when night came +on. She was moving stealthily about waiting for the evening, when +suddenly, on the weather, which had been hitherto thick and hazy, +clearing up, she saw a cruiser unpleasantly near to her, which bore down +under steam and sail, and it soon became probable that the poor little +'D----n's' twin screws would not save her this time, well and often as +they had done so before. + +The cruiser, a large full-rigged corvette, was coming up hand over hand, +carrying a strong breeze, and the days of the 'D----n' seemed numbered, +when C---- tried a ruse worthy of any of the heroes of naval history. + +The wind, as I said, was very fresh, with a good deal of sea running. +On came the cruiser till the 'D----n' was almost under her bows, and +shortened sail in fine style. The moment the men were in the rigging, +going aloft to furl the sails, C---- put his plan into execution. He +turned his craft head to wind, and steamed deliberately past the +corvette at not fifty yards' distance. She, with great way on, went +nearly a quarter of a mile before she could turn. + +I have it from good authority that the order was not given to the +marines on the man-of-war's poop to fire at the plucky little craft who +had so fairly out-manÅ“uvred the cruiser, for out-manÅ“uvred she was to +all intents and purposes. The two or three guns that had been cast loose +during the chase had been partially secured, and left so while the men +had gone aloft to furl the sails, so that not a shot was fired as she +went past. Shortly after she had done so, however, the cruiser opened +fire with her bow guns, but with the sea that was running it could do no +harm, being without any top weights. The 'D----n' easily dropped the +corvette with her heavy spars astern, and was soon far ahead; so much so +that when night came on the cruiser was shut out of sight in the +darkness. + +After this the 'D----n' deserved to escape, but it was otherwise fated. +The next morning when day broke she was within three miles of one of the +new fast vessels, which had come out on her trial trip, flying light, +alas! She had an opportunity of trying her speed advantageously to +herself. She snapped up the poor 'D----n' in no time, and took her into +the nearest port. I may mention that the 'D----n' and her captain were +well known and much sought after by the American cruisers. The first +remark that the officer made on coming aboard her was: 'Well, Captain +Roberts, so we have caught you at last!' and he seemed much disappointed +when he was told that the captain they so particularly wanted went home +in the last mail. The corvette which had chased and been cheated by the +'D----n' the day before was lying in the port into which she was taken. +Her captain, when he saw the prize, said: 'I must go on board and shake +hands with the gallant fellow who commands that vessel!' and he did so, +warmly complimenting C---- on the courage he had shown, thus proving +that he could appreciate pluck, and that American naval men did not look +down on blockade-running as a grievous sin, hard work as it gave them in +trying to put a stop to it. They were sometimes a little severe on men +who, after having been fairly caught in a chase at sea, wantonly +destroyed their compasses, chronometers, &c., rather than let them fall +into the hands of the cruiser's officers. I must say that I was always +prepared, had I been caught, to have made the best of things, to have +given the officers who came to take possession all that they had fairly +gained by luck having declared on their side, and to have had a farewell +glass of champagne with the new tenant at the late owner's expense. The +treatment received by persons captured engaged in running the blockade +differed very materially. If a _bonâ fide_ American man-of-war of the +old school made the capture, they were always treated with kindness by +their captors. But there were among the officers of vessels picked up +hurriedly and employed by the Government a very rough lot, who rejoiced +in making their prisoners as uncomfortable as possible. They seemed to +have only one good quality, and this was that there were among them many +good freemasons, and frequently a prisoner found the advantage of having +been initiated into the brotherhood. + +The 'D----n's' crew fell into very good hands, and till they arrived at +New York were comfortable enough; but the short time they spent in +prison there, while the vessel was undergoing the mockery of a trial in +the Admiralty Court, was far from pleasant. However, it did not last +very long--not more than ten days; and as soon as they were free most of +them went back to Nassau or Bermuda ready for more work. C---- came to +England and told me all his troubles. Poor fellow! I am afraid his +services were not half appreciated as they ought to have been, for +success, in blockade-running as in everything else, is a virtue, whereas +bad luck, even though accompanied with the pluck of a hero, is always +more or less a crime not to be forgiven. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +RICHMOND DURING THE SIEGE. + + +After the excitement of the last six or eight months I could not long +rest in England, satisfied with the newspaper accounts of the goings on +in the blockade-running world. So I got the command of a new and very +fast paddle-wheel vessel, and went out again. The American Government +had determined to do everything in its power to stop blockade-running, +and had lately increased the force of blockaders on the southern coast +by some very fast vessels built at New York. Being aware of this, some +of the first shipbuilders in England and Scotland were put, by persons +engaged in blockade-running, on their mettle, to try and build steamers +to beat them, and latterly it became almost a question of speed, +especially in the daylight adventures, between blockaders and +blockade-runners. + +Some of the vessels on this side of the water were constructed +regardless of any good quality but speed, consequently their scantling +was light, and their seagoing qualities very inferior. Many of them came +to grief; two or three swamped at sea; others, after being out a few +days, struggled back into Queenstown, the lamest of lame ducks; while +some got out as far as Nassau quite unfit for any further work. + +My vessel was one of the four built by R---- and G---- of Glasgow, and +was just strong enough to stand the heavy cross sea in the Gulf Stream. +She was wonderfully fast, and, taking her all in all, was a success. On +one occasion I had a fair race in the open day with one of the best of +the new vessels that the American Government had sent out to beat +creation wherever she could meet it, and I fairly ran away from her. + +On arriving at Wilmington in my new vessel I started to have a look at +Richmond, which city was then besieged on its southern and eastern sides +by General Grant, who, however, was held in check by Lee at Petersburg, +a small town situated in an important position about eighteen miles from +the capital. To get to Richmond was not easily accomplished without +making a long _détour_ into the interior (for which we had no time), for +the outposts of the contending armies disputed possession of the last +forty miles of the railroad between Wilmington and Petersburg, the +latter town being on the line to Richmond. As telegraphic communication +was stopped, it was a difficult matter to ascertain, day by day, whether +a train could pass safely. + +We had in our party the young General Custos Lee, a nephew of the +Confederate commander-in-chief, on his way to his uncle's headquarters, +who kindly offered his assistance in getting us through. When we arrived +at a station some forty miles from Richmond we found, as we feared would +be the case, our further progress by rail impracticable, but we got hold +of a couple of waggons drawn by mules, into which we managed to stow +ourselves and baggage the latter, by the way, being of considerable +importance, as it contained several cases of drinkables, not to be +obtained for love or money where we were going to. We travelled through +all sorts of by-lanes, bumped almost to pieces for four miles, steering +in the direction of the headquarters of the cavalry outposts, which were +commanded by a celebrated raiding officer, also a nephew of the +commander-in-chief. At last we found ourselves in a beautiful green +valley surrounded by thick woods, where the general and his staff were +quartered. He had with him two or three thousand cavalry, who, in spite +of their bad clothing and somewhat hungry appearance, were as +fine-looking a body of men as one would wish to see. + +The general and his staff gave us a hearty welcome. Poor fellows, it was +all they had to offer! We on our part produced sundry cases of sardines, +Bologna sausages, and other tempting condiments wherewith to make a +feast. + +The drink we mixed in two horse buckets cleaned up for the occasion; a +dozen or so of claret, a couple of bottles of brandy, and half a dozen +of soda water, the whole cooled with two or three lumps of ice (of which +article, as if in mockery, the Southerners had heaps). All these good +things were duly appreciated, not only by our new friends, who for +months past had tasted nothing but coarse rye-bread and pork washed down +with water, but also by well-shaken travellers like ourselves. Lying on +the grass in that lovely spot, it seemed as if the war and all its +horrors were for the moment forgotten. There were several Englishmen +among the officers composing the staff, who had (they said) come out +here to see active service, which they unquestionably had found to their +hearts' content. They seemed the sort of men who would do credit to +their country. I often wonder what has become of them; in one of them I +was particularly interested. He said his name was Cavendish, but it may +have been a _nom de guerre_. + +While we were in the camp a picket came in, whose officer reported +having had a skirmish with the enemy, in which the Northerners had been +whipped. The way the cavalry outposts engaged with each other was +curious enough. The ground they met on did not admit of cavalry charges +being made, as thick underwood covered the country for miles round. So, +when they were inclined for a brush, they dismounted, tied their horses +to trees, and skirmished in very open lines, every man picking out his +special enemy. When they had had enough of it, they picked up their +killed and wounded, and, mounting their horses, rode away. + +After passing four or five hours with our cavalry friends we bade them +good-bye, and started (still accompanied by our valuable companion, the +young general) on our way to the headquarters of the army, where we were +to pass the night. It was well for us that we travelled in such good +company, for having to pass all along the outskirts of the Southern +army, we were constantly stopped and interrogated by patrols and +pickets. Besides which we were sometimes disagreeably near to the +outposts of the 'boys in blue,' as Grant's men were called. Having +arrived very late in the evening at our destination, we bivouacked under +the trees close to the headquarters of the general commanding, who was +away at the front, and not expected back till the next evening. The +rattle of musketry and the boom of heavy guns all through the night +reminded us of our vicinity to the theatre of war, and somewhat +disturbed our rest. But if we were a little nervous, we took care not to +show it. In the morning we started in our waggons, and, after travelling +a few miles across the country, came to the railway that connected the +camp with Richmond. A train shortly afterwards picked us up and landed +us at the capital of Virginia, where we took up our quarters at a +comfortable-looking hotel. There was more to drink and eat here than at +Charleston, consequently people had cheerful countenances. Liquor was, +however, dear, brandy being sold at twenty-five shillings per bottle, it +having to be run through the blockade. Here we found that the people had +that wonderful blind confidence in the Southern cause which had mainly +supported them through all difficulties. + +At this moment, though a line of earthworks hurriedly thrown up in a few +hours at Petersburg was nearly all that kept Grant's well-organised army +from entering the capital; though the necessaries of war, and even of +life, were growing alarmingly short; though the soldiers were badly fed, +and only half-clothed or protected from the inclemency of the weather +(one blanket being all that was allowed to three men), still every one +seemed satisfied that the South would somehow or other gain the day, and +become an independent nation. + +While in Richmond I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of the +talented correspondent of the 'Times,' who, although in a position to +look on calmly at passing events, was so carried away by his admiration +of the wonderful pluck shown by the Southerners, and by the general +enthusiasm of the people among whom he lived, that he allowed himself to +be buoyed up with the hope that something would eventually turn up in +their favour, and in his letters never seemed to despair. Had he done +otherwise he would have stood alone, so he swam with the tide; whereas +all of us, especially those who were mere lookers-on, should have seen +the end coming months before we were obliged to open our eyes to the +fact that it was come. Through his acquaintance with the big-wigs, we +managed to get a few of them to accept an invitation to a feed, as we +could offer luxuries such as could not be found in Richmond. + +Some of the first men in the Confederacy honoured us with their +company, and made themselves uncommonly agreeable, seeming quite a jolly +set of fellows. I fear that they have nearly all come to grief since +then, except Mr. Benjamin, the Minister of Foreign Affairs, who before +his death, which occurred several years after the time that I write, +made himself a name in England worthy of his high talents and education. + +I had the honour, while in Richmond, of being invited to a tea party by +Mrs. Davis, the President's wife, which I thought very interesting. The +ladies were all dressed in deep mourning; some (the greater part) for +the sad reason that they had lost near and dear relatives in the +wretched war; the others, I suppose, were in mourning for their +country's misfortunes. Mrs. Davis moved about the room saying something +civil to every one, while the President, though a stern-looking man who +never smiled, tried to make himself agreeable to his guests, and gave +one the idea of a thorough gentleman. I saw there military officers who +had lately come from the front, surrounded by groups of people anxious +for news; delegates from distant seceding States; messengers from Hood's +army, about which many were beginning to be anxious; sympathising +foreigners, government officials, and many others. The whole of the +conversation naturally related to the prospects of the cause, and no one +would have guessed from what he heard in President Davis's house that +the end was so near. + +I was anxious before my return to see something of the army that had so +long defended Richmond. So I only remained a few days at the capital, +after which I left it and its, alas! too confiding inhabitants, and made +my way as best I could to the headquarters of the commander-in-chief. +There I presented my letters of introduction to General Lee. + +It would perhaps be impertinence on my part to attempt to eulogise the +character of this excellent man and good soldier, who, most thoroughly +believing in the justice of the Southern cause, had sacrificed +everything he possessed in its behalf, and had thrown all his energy and +talent into the scale in its favour. Many who knew him well have done +and will continue to do justice to his patriotism and self-denial. I had +a very long conversation with him, which I wish I could repeat without +being guilty of a breach of confidence, as evidence of the sensible +notions he had formed of the state of affairs in the South. He was the +only man I met during my travels who took a somewhat gloomy view of the +military prospects of the country--of which, as a soldier, there could +be no better judge. + +After spending twenty-four hours in the camp, we went to the railway +station to see if we could get places for Wilmington. We found that the +line was in the hands of the Southerners, and that although the 'boys in +blue' had a vulgar habit of firing into the carriages as they passed, +the trains were running each night. But a train running and a +non-combatant passenger getting a place in a carriage were widely +different things, every available seat being taken up by sick and +wounded soldiers. I made a frantic effort to get into the train somehow, +and after a severe struggle succeeded in scrambling into a sort of +horse-box and sat me down on a long deal box, which seemed rather a +comfortable place to sleep on. It was pitch dark when I got into the +train, and we were obliged to keep in the dark until we had run the +gauntlet of the Northern pickets, who favoured us with a volley or two +at a long range from the hills overlooking the railway. When we were +clear of them I lighted a match, and to my horror found that I was +comfortably lounging on a coffin. I wished I had not thrown a light on +the subject, but by degrees, becoming accustomed I suppose to my +position, I sank into a comfortable sleep and was really quite sorry +when, on arriving at some station just before daylight, people came to +remove my peculiar though far from uncomfortable couch. I felt its loss +the more, for in its place they put a poor fellow wounded nearly to +death, whose moans and cries were, beyond anything, distressing. We were +a long time getting to Wilmington, as it was necessary to stop and +repair most of the bridges on the line before the train could venture +over them, an operation at which all passengers sound in wind and limb +had to assist. + +On arriving there we found all the world in a state of great excitement, +on account of there having been a terrible fire among the cotton lying +on the quays ready for embarkation, supposed to have been the work of an +incendiary. + +The recollections of my last proceedings in the blockade-running are far +from pleasant, and I shall pass them over as briefly as possible. + +When we had only the American Government cruisers to fear, we enjoyed +the excitement in the same way as a man enjoys fox-hunting (only, by the +way, we were the fox instead of the huntsmen), but when dire disease, in +the worst form that Yellow Jack could take, stalked in amongst us, and +reduced our numbers almost hourly, things became too serious to be +pleasant. + +However, before the fever showed itself we made one successful round +trip in the new vessel (in and out) in capital form, having some +exciting chases and little adventures, all very similar to what I have +described before, the vessel doing credit to her designers on all +occasions. We landed one thousand one hundred and forty bales of cotton +at Bermuda, and it was after we had started from Wilmington on our +second trip that the horrid yellow fever broke out among us. I believe +that every precaution was taken by the Government of the island to +prevent the disease from spreading, but increased by the drunkenness, +dissipation, and dirty habits of the crews of the blockade-runners, and +the wretchedly bad drainage of the town of St. George, it had lately +broken out with great violence, and had spread like wildfire, both on +the shore and among the shipping. It must have been brought on board our +ship by some of the men, who had been spending much time on shore; we +had not been twenty-four hours at sea before the fever had got deadly +hold on our crew. + +We went to Halifax, where we landed our sick and inhaled some purer air; +but it was of no avail. The fever was in the vessel and we could not +shake it off. The poor fellows as soon as we were out at sea again began +to drop off. I never can forget an incident of that voyage, which, as +it could only have happened during blockade-running times, I will +mention, melancholy though it was. Two men died in the middle watch one +night, when we were in very dangerous waters. Their bodies were wrapped +in rough shrouds, ready to be committed to the deep when daylight broke, +as we dared not show a light whereby to read the Funeral Service. I +never waited so anxiously or thought the dawn so long in coming. I was +waiting with my Prayer-book in my hands straining my eyes to make out +the service; the men with their hats off, standing by the bodies, ready +to ease them down into the sea. Our minds I fear wandered towards the +danger that existed (almost to a certainty) of a cruiser making us out +by the same light that enabled us to perform our sad office. However, as +soon as there was light enough, the service was read without any +indecent hurry, and fortunately nothing was in sight to disturb us for +several hours afterwards. + +It was miserable work. That morning about seven o'clock a man came up +from the engine-room, and while trying to say something to me fell down +in a fit, and was dead in half an hour. There was quite a panic among us +all, and as if to make things worse to the superstitious sailors, +whenever we stopped several horrid sharks immediately showed themselves +swimming round the vessel. The men lost all heart, and would I think +have been thankful to have been captured, as a means of escape from what +they believed to be a doomed vessel. Taking into consideration that if +we got into Wilmington we should, with this dreadful disease on board, +have been put into almost interminable quarantine (for the inhabitants +of Wilmington having been decimated before by yellow fever, which was +introduced by blockade-runners, had instituted the most severe sanitary +laws), I determined to go back to Halifax. + +On arriving there I was taken very ill with yellow fever, and on my +recovery made up my mind to give up blockade-running for ever and all. +The game indeed was fast drawing to a close. Its decline was caused in +the first by the impolitic behaviour of the people at Wilmington, who, +professedly acting under orders from the Confederate Government at +Richmond, pressed the blockade-runners into their service to carry out +cotton on Government account, in such an arbitrary manner that the +profit to their owners, who had been put to an enormous expense and risk +in sending vessels in, was so much reduced that the ventures hardly +paid. And when at last Fort Fisher was taken, and thus all +blockade-running entirely put an end to, the enterprise had lost much of +its charm; for, unromantic as it may seem, much of that charm consisted +in money-making. + +However, I will mention one or two instances to show what the love of +enterprise will lead men to do, and with these I will close my +narration. + +On the first night of the attack on Fort Fisher, which it may be +remembered was a failure entirely through bad management, though its +little garrison fought like lions, a blockade-runner unaware of what was +going on, finding that the blockading squadron was very near inshore and +hearing a great deal of firing, kept creeping nearer to the fort, till +she was near enough to make out what they were doing. Judging rightly +that they would never suspect that any attempt would be made to run the +blockade at such a time, she joined a detachment of gun-boats and went +deliberately in as one of them. When they, being repulsed, had steamed +away, our friend remained at anchor under the fort, much to the +astonishment of the garrison. It would have been rather awkward if the +fort had been taken, but in such times no one looks very far ahead. + +Another vessel went out from Wilmington the same night, and was +unmolested. But fortune does not always favour the brave. Fort Fisher +was at last taken _unbeknownst_, as the sailors say, to the +blockade-runners at Nassau or Bermuda, at which places the blindest +confidence was still felt in everything connected with the fortunes of +the South, and where to whisper an opinion that any mishap might happen +to Wilmington was positively dangerous. The crafty Northerners placed +the lights for going over the bar as usual. The blockade-runners came +cautiously on, and congratulating themselves at seeing no cruisers ran +gaily into the port. The usual feasting and rejoicings were about to +commence when a boat full of armed men came alongside, and astonished +them by telling them that they were in the lion's mouth. This happened +to four or five vessels before the news had reached the islands. It was +hard lines, no doubt, but quite fair play. It was the blockaders' turn +to laugh now. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +THE LAND BLOCKADE. + + +I have now come to the end of my blockade-running yarns. I have +endeavoured to avoid giving offence to anyone: to the American officers +and men who manned the cruisers I can, as a nautical man, truly and +honestly give the credit of having most zealously performed their hard +and wearisome duty. It was not their fault that I did not visit New York +at the Government's expense; but the old story that 'blockades, to be +legal, must be efficient,' is a tale for bygone days. So long as +batteries at the entrance of the port blockaded keep ships at a +respectable distance, the blockade will be broken. + +A practical suggestion that my experience during the time I was a +witness of the war in America would lead me to make is, that, both for +the purposes of war and of blockade, speed is the most important object +to attain. Towards the end of that contest, blockade-running became +much more difficult, in fact, was very nearly put a stop to, not by the +ports becoming more effectually closed to traffic, but by the sea being +literally covered with very fast vessels, who picked up many +blockade-runners at sea during the daytime, especially when they had +their heavy cargoes of cotton on board. The Americans are also perfectly +alive to the fact that, for purposes of war, speed is all important. An +American officer of rank once remarked to me: 'Give me a fifteen-knot +wooden vessel armed with four heavy guns of long range, and I'll laugh +at your lumbering iron-clads.' Perhaps he had prize-money in view when +he said so; or, what is still more important, he may have felt how +easily such vessels as those he proposed would sweep the seas of foreign +privateers. In these views I can but think he was right and far-seeing. +Time will show. + +It may have struck my readers as strange that, in a country with so +large an inland boundary, the necessaries of life and munitions of war +could not have been introduced into the Southern States by their +extensive frontiers: but it is only a just tribute to the wonderful +energy shown by the Northern Americans during the civil war, to state +that the blockade by land was as rigid as that enforced by their fleets; +and almost as much risk was run by persons who broke the land blockade +as by those who evaded the vigilance of the cruisers at sea. The courses +of the large inland rivers were protected by gun-boats, and on account +of the rapids and other impediments, such as snags, with which they were +filled, the fords or passes for boats were few and far between, and thus +easily guarded; besides which, it was always a difficult matter to avoid +the pickets belonging to either party, who were very apt to suspect a +man they found creeping about without any ostensible object, and anyone +suspected of being a spy in those days had a short shrift and a long +rope applied before he knew where he was. More from a spirit of +enterprise than from any other reason, I determined to see what the land +blockade was like, and while at Richmond, happening to meet another +adventurous individual also so inclined, we commenced our plan of +campaign. + +First of all (by the way, I ought to mention that we were both nautical +parties) we engaged a pilot, thereby meaning a man who had a canoe or +two stowed away in different parts of the woods, and who was well +acquainted with the passes on the river. Our amiable friend, the +correspondent of the 'Times.' showed so much confidence in our success +that he entrusted to our care a packet of despatches, which were +intended, if we got through successfully, to delight the eyes of the +readers of the 'Thunderer' some weeks afterwards. + +We had to buy a horse and buggy, as naturally enough no one would let +them out on hire for such an enterprise; besides, those were not days +when men let out anything on hire that they could not keep in sight. +However, we sent a man on before us, in company with the pilot, to a +station some miles from the frontier, whose business it was to bring the +trap back when we had done with it. We stowed in our haversacks a pair +of dry stockings, a good stock of tobacco, and a couple of bottles of +brandy, against the road; we also had passes to produce in the event of +questions being asked by the patrols on the Southern side of the +frontier. + +All being ready, we started, leaving Richmond at four o'clock in the +morning. We travelled on a long, dreary, dusty road all day, stopping +about noon for two hours at a free nigger's hut, where we got some yams +and milk, and about sunset arrived at the station above mentioned, at +which we were to dismiss our conveyance; and right glad we were to get +rid of it, for we were bumped to death by its dreadful oscillations. + +At this station our pilot was waiting for us. There were also +bivouacking here a picket of cavalry, who told us they had seen some of +the enemy's patrols that morning, scouring about on the opposite bank of +the river just where we proposed to land. Somehow or other, people +always seem to take a pleasure in telling you disagreeable things at a +time when you rather want encouragement than fear instilled into you. We +had some supper, consisting of eggs and bacon; and at nine o'clock, it +being then pitch dark, the pilot informed us it was time to start. I +must say I should have been more comfortable if I had been on the bridge +of my little craft, just starting over the bar at Wilmington, with the +probability of a broadside from a gun-boat saluting us in a very short +time, than where I was. But it would never do to think of going back, so +we crawled into the wood. + +Our land pilot informed us that the bank of the river, from whence we +should find a clear passage across, was about two miles distant. I never +remember seeing or feeling anything to be compared with the darkness of +that pine wood, but our guide seemed to have the eyes of a basilisk. We +formed Indian file, our guide leading, and crept along as best we could. +At last, after stealthily progressing for half an hour, a glimmer of +starlight through the trees showed us that we were getting to the +borders of the wood. + +A few minutes afterwards we were desired to lie down. Feeling helpless +as babes, we passively obeyed, and watched our guide as he moved about +like a spectre in the long grass on the banks of the Potomac, looking +for his canoe. At last he returned and whispered that the boat was all +right, and we all crept like serpents to where it was concealed. Nothing +could be heard but the wind blowing through the trees, and the +discordant noises of frogs and other denizens of the swamp. So dark was +the night that we could hardly see fifty yards across the river. I +suppose this was all in our favour; but how our guide knew the marks by +which to steer was a puzzle to me, and as I never meant to profit by +this experience I asked no questions. + +Not a word was spoken as we (myself and my friend) launched the canoe +silently into the water and seated ourselves, or rather obeyed orders +and lay down, the pilot sitting in the stern, with his face towards the +bows of the boat, having a light paddle in his hand, which he worked +wonderfully well and silently. The distance across the river was about +three miles. + +We shot ahead at a rapid pace for about five minutes, when suddenly, +bump went the canoe against something. To lie flat down was to our guide +the work of a second, and the canoe was at once transformed into a +floating log. + +Well it was so, for it seems we had struck a small boat that was +fastened astern of the gun-boat guarding the river. That the noise of +the collision had been heard on board was evident, for a sentry hailed, +'Boat ahoy!' and fired his musket, and one of those detestable bright +lights which the American men-of-war have a nasty habit of showing +flashed over the water, making everything visible for a hundred yards +round. The current of the river, however, was very strong, and I fancy +we had drifted out of the radius covered by the light, as we were +fortunately not discovered; or perhaps the diligent watchman on board +the man-of-war thought some huge crocodile or other monster had come in +contact with their boat. Be that as it may, we were safe, and twenty +minutes more paddling brought us to land on the opposite bank of the +river; but unfortunately our little adventure had thrown us out of our +line, or as we sailors should have called it, out of our course. We +hauled the canoe out of the water, and hid her in the long grass. All we +could see around us was a dismal swamp, with the dark wood in the +background. Our guide honestly told us that having been thrown out of +his 'reckoning' in regard to our position, to move from where we were +before daybreak would be madness, so we took a pull at the brandy +bottle, lighted our pipes and waited patiently, having moved well in +under cover of the long grass, so as to be out of sight of any vessel +lying in the river near to us. + +When the day dawned, our pilot after having reconnoitred told us that we +were very well placed for starting for Washington; but that it would be +impossible, on account of the patrols that were constantly watching the +river's banks, for us to move during the daytime, so we were doomed to +remain all day in the damp grass. Luckily we had put in our pockets at +last night's supper some black bread and an onion or two; so we made the +best of things, and so did the sandflies. How they did pitch into us, +especially into me! I suppose the good living I had been accustomed to +on board the blockade-runner, or my natural disposition to good +condition, made me taste sweet. Several times during that fearful day I +was tempted to rush out from my hiding-place, and defying patrols, +gun-boat's crew, and all authorities, make my escape from that place of +torture. + +Anyone who has experienced the necessity of remaining quiet under such +an infliction as an attack of millions of sandflies on a hot sunny day +will appreciate my feelings. About one o'clock we got as a diversion +from our tormentors a great fright. A boat's crew of a gun-boat lying +about a mile distant from our retreat landed, and out of sheer idleness +set fire to the grass about a hundred yards from where we were lying +concealed. + +We heard the crackling of the grass and thought of leaving our +concealment at the risk of discovery; but our guide wisely remarked that +the wind was the wrong way to bring the fire towards our hiding-place, +so we felt safe. The feeling of security was more pleasant, because we +distinctly heard the men belonging to the gun-boat conversing with +others, who clearly were patrols on the river's bank. + +The evening at last closed in, and as soon as it was quite dark we moved +on, and after struggling through a thick wood for half an hour, got on +the high road to Washington. We travelled by night, meeting occasional +patrols, whom we dodged by either lying down or getting behind trees +till they had passed. + +We concealed ourselves carefully during the day, and on the third +morning before daylight we were within half a mile of the city. As we +got near the bridge close outside Washington, we tried our best to look +like the rest of the people who were going on their ordinary business; +and though somewhat severely scrutinised by the guard we managed to pass +muster, and got safely into Washington, footsore, hungry, and regularly +done up. + +We went to a small inn that had been recommended to us when we were in +Richmond, where probably they had some Southern proclivities. No +questions were asked as to where we came from, though, I take it, the +people of the house had a shrewd guess. We found ourselves among friends +and perfectly safe from meddling inquiries. + +Thus the land blockade was run. I do not think much experience was +gained by this particularly unpleasant exploit, which after all there +was no very great difficulty in performing, and I certainly prefer my +own element. + +After a short stay we made our way easily to New York, not feeling any +anxiety from the fact of our being staunch Southerners in our opinions, +inasmuch as there were numbers of sympathising friends wherever we went, +more perhaps than the authorities were aware of. I stayed a few days in +New York to recruit my strength after the fatigue of the journey, and +saw all the sights and enjoyed all the pleasures of the most delightful +city in the world, except perhaps Paris and London. I shall not attempt +to give my readers any description of New York. This has already been +done by abler pens than mine. + +While in New York I was greatly struck with the calm confidence of the +bulk of the Northerners in the ultimate success of their arms against +the South. If I gained nothing else by running the land blockade, I at +least got an insight into the enormous resources possessed by the North, +and a knowledge of the unflinching determination with which the Federals +were prepared to carry on the struggle to the end. I must confess that I +left New York with my confidence that the Confederates would achieve +their independence very much shaken. + +Not being desirous of going through the risk and inconvenience of +running the land blockade again, I returned to Nassau by steamer from +New York. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +I ENTER THE TURKISH NAVY. + + +After superintending, as it were, the adventures just detailed, I found +that there was still a year to pass before my time for service as a +post-captain came on; so I determined on making a Continental tour to +fill up the space. After wandering about in different countries, I more +by accident than design visited Constantinople. + +While there, I called upon that great statesman Fuad Pasha, the Grand +Vizier of the Ottoman Empire, to whom I presented my letters of +introduction. He received me most cordially, and, during our +conversation, mentioned that for some years Turkey had had to deal with +a serious insurrection in the island of Crete, which it was found +difficult to suppress, owing to the assistance from without which the +revolutionary party received from Greece; also on account of the +somewhat doubtful laws existing as to blockade-running. For, although +Turkish men-of-war were continually on the look-out, vessels mostly +under the Greek flag, carrying warlike stores, provisions, &c., evaded +the watch of the cruisers on one pretext or another, and so managed to +keep a lively communication with the insurrectionary subjects of the +Sultan in Crete. Only one vessel had been captured _in flagrante +delicto_ after a sharp fight, and had been condemned as a lawful prize. + +The Turkish authorities were told that, according to international law, +a blockade-running vessel could not be followed more than ten miles from +the coast, though having been seen breaking the blockade, and that as +soon as a blockade-runner was within four miles of any island not +belonging to Turkey, she could not be touched, &c. &c.; in fact, laws +were _fabricated_ to defend the blockade-running, which fed the +revolution to such an extent that, while it continued, it was hopeless +to attempt to put down the revolt. + +I accidentally hinted to His Highness, Fuad Pasha, that I thought the +blockade-running could be put a stop to without infringing any law, +especially where laws were so elastic. He seemed much struck with my +remark, and asked me to call on him again in a few days. Now I had +merely mentioned casually what I thought. I had no idea of anything +serious resulting from our interview. I was indeed surprised on my +return to His Highness by his saying: 'I have consulted His Majesty the +Sultan, who desires me to tell you that if you would wish to take +service with the Ottoman Government, arrangements can be made whereby +you can do so, only you must take the risk and responsibility of +offending your own people.' + +I had to consider a little before replying. I bore in mind that there +were some two hundred and fifty post-captains in the English navy +clamouring for employment, and that there were at the moment I speak of +only about forty employed. I remembered that for twenty-four years an +English officer of the same rank as myself had held the post now offered +to me, namely, that of Naval Adviser to the Turkish Government, that the +post was just vacant through the retirement of Sir Adolphus Slade (who +had served honourably for twenty years, and had retired from old age). I +calculated in those days of profound peace there was more probability of +active service in the Eastern world than elsewhere. So I answered: +'Well, your Highness, I am ready if the terms offered me are +satisfactory.' + +I may say they proved most satisfactory; so, to make a long story +short, I accepted and was booked as a Turkish employé for five years, +always retaining my rank and position as an English naval officer, and +my nationality as a British subject. + +I found afterwards, as regards my position as an English naval officer, +I had somewhat reckoned without my host. It seems that this post was +considered by the English Admiralty as one of their choice gifts, and +many were the applicants for it on Sir A. Slade's retirement, so much so +that their lordships made great capital of this appointment, and were +furious at my action in the matter. They said I had 'cut out' a good old +servant to whom they had intended to give it. They suggested my coming +home at once, &c. &c. I didn't see it in the same light as their +lordships, and I signified my determination to remain where I was; for +which, as will be seen, they paid me off in course of time. Luckily, I +could afford by the arrangement I had made with the Turkish Government +to be in the Admiralty's bad books, and even the frowns of the English +Ambassador did not affect me a bit. I believe they called me +'adventurer,' 'artful dodger,' &c., but it must be remembered that I was +in every way as much entitled to this position as the Admiralty 'pet,' +whoever he may have been. + +From the day of signing my contract (which has been constantly renewed) +to the time I write, some sixteen years, I never have had cause to +regret the step I took. + +Shortly after my installation as vice-admiral in the Turkish navy, it +was decided that I should be sent to Crete to put a stop to the +blockade-running. 'Set a thief to catch a thief,' as one of my, what may +be called, unfriendly critics has written about me, and the remark was +_ben trovato_ at all events, for I certainly did know something about +blockade-running. + +I accordingly hoisted my flag in a fine fifty-gun wooden frigate, and +arrived at Suda Bay, the principal port of Crete, where six or seven +Turkish men-of-war were stationed, of which I took command. Here I heard +all the naval officers had to say about the blockade, the impunity with +which it was carried on, &c. I found, as I before mentioned, that the +Turkish naval officers' hands were tied by all sorts of imaginary +difficulties. They had most zealously done their duty while trying to +stop the blockade-running. They had shown great pluck and endurance, but +they always feared to break the law and so get the ever-bullied Turkish +Government into trouble. Here I also heard of the triumphant manner in +which the blockade-runners left the ports of Greece. How the Mayors of +Syra, Poros, and other Greek towns, conducted, with flags flying, bands +playing, and the hurrahs of the entire population, the hitherto +triumphant blockade-running captains and crews to their ships, on the +way to feed the flame of revolt against a nation with whom the Greeks +professed to be on most friendly terms. + +I heard all this, and was moreover told that if the blockade-running was +stopped, the insurgents in Crete would at once lay down their arms for +want of food and warlike stores. + +I determined to stop it at all risks. + +Picking out of my squadron a couple of fast despatch boats and a quick +steaming corvette to accompany my flag-ship, I started on a cruise, and +once out of sight of the harbour of Suda, steamed straight for Syra. Now +this port had been the principal delinquent in fitting out and sending +blockade-runners to Crete; so I thought that by going as it were to the +starting-point, I should be somewhat nearer to my quarry than by waiting +for them in Crete. Circumstances favoured me in the most marvellous +manner. As morning broke the day after I left Suda, I was about eight +miles from Syra harbour, steaming slowly, when I saw what made my heart +leap into my mouth, viz., a regular blockade-runner exactly of the type +used in the American war, going at full speed for Syra harbour. + +He was _outside_ my little squadron, and must pass within a mile or so +ahead to get to his port. + +A somewhat similar position I have so often seen, in fact, taken part +in, of a craft running for dear life into Charleston or Wilmington, +across the bows of blockading ships just at daylight. I saw that he was +firing up all he knew, and was going at a tremendous speed. I signalled +to my despatch boats to chase, and when my flag-ship was within about a +mile and a half I fired a blank gun to make him show his colours. To +this he replied by firing his long Armstrong gun with such effect that +the shot cut away the stanchion of the bridge on which I was standing. +Now, gallant fellow as he was, in doing this he was wrong; he should +have shown his colours and run (if he knew he wasn't honest) for the +shelter of a neutral flag, but not fired at a man-of-war, who in her +duty as forming part of the police of the seas fires a blank gun asking +for colours from a suspicious vessel. He undoubtedly committed an act of +piracy and gave me a splendid hold on him. + +My despatch boats chased the blockade-runner close to Syra harbour, both +parties keeping up a warm running fight. When I recalled them, I found +that this vessel was named the 'Enossis.' Her captain was a most +courageous Greek, who thought of nothing but carrying his cargo and +fighting to the last for his ship, evidently ignoring all laws, nor did +he even think that on this occasion someone was acting against him who +knew something of the rules of blockade, and who could have told him +that an armed blockade-runner is a pirate, that is to say, if she uses +her arms against a man-of-war. + +I was so satisfied with what had occurred that I sent off one of my +despatch boats to the Governor of Crete, telling him that he need not +fear the blockade-runners any more, as they (the two others were lying +in Syra harbour) had put themselves in so false a position that at all +events for several weeks I could detain them at Syra. I knew that one +week would suffice to stop the revolt in Crete, as without the +blockade-runners the insurrectionists had positively nothing to eat. + +(I may as well at once observe that I was perfectly justified in saying +this, for within three days, no blockade-runner arriving at the island, +the insurgents laid down their arms and _begged for bread_. And so ended +the Cretan revolt.) + +Having recalled the vessels I had sent to chase the 'Enossis' into Syra +harbour, I steamed in the roads off that port, and anchored with three +vessels. + +I then sent to the authorities on shore at Syra, and demanded their +assistance in arresting a vessel that had taken shelter in their port, +which, as I stated in my despatch, had committed an act of piracy on the +high seas, by firing at my flagship when the latter called upon her to +show her colours by firing a blank gun. At the same time I informed the +authorities of Syra that, as the companions of the 'Enossis' were in the +harbour, I should allow none of them to go to sea until the question of +that vessel's illegal action was cleared up. By doing this I took the +wind out of the sails of the authorities of Syra. They of course were +furious, and at once despatched a vessel to Athens for orders. At the +same time they made a semblance of meeting my demand by stating that the +'Enossis' should be tried by international law. They also requested me +to make my protest and to leave Syra, as the populace were in a state of +excitement beyond their power of control. In this request all the +Foreign Consuls joined. + +I positively declined to leave; had I consented I am convinced the +'Enossis' and her companions would have left for Crete as soon as I was +out of sight. In the meantime I sent a despatch boat to Smyrna with +telegrams for Constantinople asking for assistance, stating my +position. I remained off Syra with two ships, one being a despatch boat, +watching the movements of the three blockade-runners, to whom I notified +that I would sink them if they attempted to leave the port. + +I often wonder they didn't make a rush for it on the first night of my +arrival, when I was almost alone. The Greeks never want pluck. If they +had done so, one vessel out of the three would certainly have escaped, +taken food to the insurgents, and capsized all my calculations. + +It merely corroborated my view of blockade-running peoples, namely, that +they go for gain (some perhaps for love of enterprise); don't fight +unless very hard pressed, and not always then if they are wise; that is +what it should be. It is outrageous that adventurous persons not engaged +in war should become belligerents, as well as carriers of arms and +provisions to an enemy. + +The first night I passed off Syra was one of great anxiety, as I had +promised the Governor of Crete that no blockade-runner should go to the +island. + +In the morning a small steamer arrived from Athens with a Turkish +official on board. He came to me pale as a sheet, and told me that as he +left the Piræus a Greek frigate was on the point of leaving for Syra, +whose captain, officers, and crew had sworn to bring back Hobart Pasha +dead or alive. Half an hour afterwards I got under weigh, and as I +steamed about in the offing I saw the Greek frigate coming round the +point. + +It was a moment of intense excitement. The tops of the houses at Syra +were covered with people. It looked like the old story of the +'Chesapeake' and 'Shannon,' where the people turned out to see the fine +sport, and the band played, 'Yankee doodle dandy, oh!' + +However, I steamed towards my supposed enemy, went almost alongside of +him, expecting momentarily to receive his broadside, when to my +astonishment and I must say satisfaction he steamed into the anchorage, +and let go three anchors. This didn't look like fighting. I found +afterwards that the Greek frigate had _no powder_ on board. It was a +shame to put her captain in so false a position, as everyone knows what +gallant stuff the Greeks are made of, and swagger is a mistake where +real pluck exists. + +I felt for him very much, as he seemed so sorry for himself. + +A few days after this I was reinforced by six or seven Turkish +ironclads, and in fact commanded the position in spite of all +remonstrances on the part of foreigners and other declared enemies of +Turkish rule. + +We went through the laughable farce of a trial of the 'Enossis' on board +a vessel lying in port (I dare not land), which of course ended in +nothing. + +The Governor-General of Crete sent all the insurgents in Turkish ships +to me to deal with, and this was the most difficult thing I had to do. +Poor beggars, they were fine though misguided men. After giving them a +good feed, for they were terribly hungry, I distributed them among the +neighbouring Greek islands, and so finished the affair. + +There are those who say that my acts off Syra were illegal, especially +as to stopping the 'Enossis's' companions from leaving the port. All I +can say is, the Greeks _en masse_, from the Government downwards, had +paid so little regard to international law during three years, as +regards their action in encouraging revolution in the territory of a +friendly country, that a little stretch of the law on my part was quite +justifiable. + +While on the subject of Crete, which is always supposed to be in a +chronic state of revolt, I would say a few words. + +I maintain that the Cretan people, of whom I know a good deal, _do not +want an alliance_ with Greece, and if the always over-excited ambitious +Greek committees would only keep quiet and give up agitation, the +Cretans would be the happiest community in the Mediterranean. + +While I commanded for more than a year a large squadron of Turkish +ironclads stationed in Crete, I had many opportunities of judging as to +the sentiments of the Cretans. + +I never saw a more orderly, well-disposed people if let alone by +agitators. + +On my return to Constantinople the reception I received from several of +the European Powers was most gratifying. + +I received high honours in the shape of decorations, for having as they +said by my conduct prevented a European war. My own country alone stood +aloof from me. The Admiralty went so far as to tell me that if I did not +immediately return to England, my name would be erased from the list of +naval officers. An officer of high rank, a member of the Board of +Admiralty, wrote to me a semi-official letter, in which he said, 'Unless +you leave the Turkish service, you will be scratched off the list.' +Feeling exceedingly hurt at such treatment, at a moment when I expected +encouragement for having maintained the honour of my country while +acting as a naval officer should have done, I wrote to him, 'You may +scratch and be d----d.' This letter was, I think, very unfairly quoted +against me some time afterwards in the House of Commons. However, my +name was erased from the list of naval officers, and was not replaced +there for several years. I was well and kindly received by His Majesty +the Sultan, promoted to the rank of full admiral, and settled down to my +work as a Turkish naval officer, head of the staff of the Imperial Navy. + +It becomes a most delicate task to continue sketches of my life during +the latter time that I have been in Turkey, because such anecdotes +strike nearer home, that is to say, become more what may be called +personal as regards my public and private doings. However, I will +endeavour, somewhat briefly perhaps, to do so in a way that may be +interesting to my readers, and offensive to no one. + +It is not difficult to serve such masters as the Turks; they are always +kind and considerate to strangers in their service, and if one avoids +offending them in certain matters on which they are supposed to have +prejudices, and if one while giving advice avoids offensive censure, it +is easy to get on. While serving in Turkey my principal business has +been relating to naval matters, regarding which I have had to propose +certain progressive changes such as are being constantly introduced into +foreign navies, more especially the English. These changes proposed by +me have generally been accepted, and I can but think that many +beneficial alterations have been introduced into the Turkish Navy +tending to improve that service. + +His Majesty the Sultan has named me one of his special A.D.C.'s, and in +that capacity I have had at times and still have important duties. + +His Majesty always treats me with the greatest kindness and +consideration, and I have a sincere respect and affection for him, both +as a sovereign, and, if I may presume to say so, as a friend. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +THE WAR WITH RUSSIA. + + +In 1877 the war with Russia broke out, and through the absence of any +powerful naval enemy, little in the way of hard fighting was done; still +some very important service was performed by the Turkish fleet, much +more so than is generally known. + +In the first place we had to hold the Black Sea, with its extensive +sea-board. We defended Sulina and Batoum against Russian attack by land, +and by torpedo on the sea. We had to watch the little swift packet-boats +equipped as men-of-war, which constantly made a rush from Sebastopol and +Odessa (as they did, by the way, in the Crimean War, when twenty to +thirty English and French ships were watching them), and when they could +get a chance burnt some unfortunate little coasting craft, sending the +crews of such vessels adrift in small boats to make the best of their +way to the nearest land. In addition to the above-named services, the +Turkish fleet was called upon constantly to transport large bodies of +troops from port to port. + +On one memorable occasion the Turkish men-of-war and transports conveyed +the whole of Suleiman Pasha's army, consisting of forty thousand men, +from the coast of Albania to Salonica, a distance of some eight hundred +miles, within the short space of twelve days, a feat, I venture to say, +unheard of in the naval annals of this century. Sulina was held safely +by the Turkish fleet until the end of the war. + +Batoum could not have been held by Dervish Pasha and his army had not +the Turkish fleet been there to help him. In short, that fleet kept the +command of the Black Sea during the whole of that disastrous war, +cruising at times in the most fearful weather I have ever experienced, +for twelve months in a sea almost without ports of refuge; and it is a +remarkable fact that the Turks never lost a ship, constantly attacked +though they were, as I shall show hereafter, by the plucky Russian +torpedo boats, who frequently made rushes at them from Muscovite ports, +and only saved from destruction through the precautions taken against +these diabolical machines, which come and go like flashes of lightning. +It is true that _in the Danube_ two small Turkish vessels of war were +destroyed by torpedoes, but it must be borne in mind the Danube was +under _military_ law, and that the look-out kept on board these vessels +was not by any means what it should have been. + +But I must repeat, as so many contrary reports have been spread, that no +Turkish ironclad was injured by torpedoes in the Black Sea. + +I will explain hereafter how many attacks were made with no result +whatever. Some few days before the war broke out I was sent to examine +the Danube from a professional point of view, and it was soon made clear +to me that much could be done, in the way of defending that great +estuary, had nautical experience and the splendid material of which the +Turkish sailor is made of been properly utilised. But alas! I found +that, contrary to the views of His Majesty the Sultan, a line of action +was followed showing that pig-headed obstinacy and the grossest +ignorance prevailed in the councils of those who had supreme command in +that river. I found that my advice and that of competent Turkish +officers, in comparatively subordinate positions like myself, was +entirely ignored, and that few, if any, proper steps were taken to +prevent the enemy's progress into Roumania, and later on, to his +passing the Danube almost unopposed. + +On the day that war was declared I was at Rustchuk, the headquarters of +the Turkish army. On that occasion I made a final effort, by making +propositions which events have proved would have arrested the advance of +the enemy. + +I was simply told to mind my own business, and ordered to immediately +rejoin my ships, which were at the moment lying at the Sulina mouth of +the Danube. + +It was all very well to tell me to do this; but to do so was apparently +not so easy of execution, for the reason that the Russians had no sooner +declared war than they took possession of the Lower Danube, by planting +fortifications on the hills commanding the river in the neighbourhood of +Galatz and Ibraila, at the same time laying down torpedoes across the +river in great quantities (as regards the latter, it was so reported, +though in my opinion it was no easy matter so quickly to place +torpedoes). I informed the military commanders of this; their answer +was, 'Go, and rejoin your ships _viâ_ Varna, if you will only get out of +this; we don't want your advice.' By this time, however, my professional +pride was wounded, and I determined to do something to show my contempt +for them all. + +The only thing left for me to do for the moment was a little +blockade-running, so I resolved to bring my ship back past the Russian +barrier in the Lower Danube at all risks, instead of tamely returning by +land. So great was the jealousy against me that I almost think the +Turkish authorities commanding in the Danube would have been pleased if +I had failed, and so come to grief. I had with me a very fast +paddle-steamer called the 'Rethymo'; her captain and crew were what the +Turks always are--brave as lions and obedient as lambs. + +I took on board a river pilot, whom I gave to understand that if he got +me on shore I would blow his brains out. Before starting I sent for my +officers and crew and told them of the perhaps unnecessary dangers we +should run in passing the Russian barrier, and gave to all the option of +leaving or going on. They decided to a man to go on. I arranged my time +so as to pass Ibraila and Galatz during the night. We arrived to within +thirty miles of the former place at about five o'clock in the evening, +when I was met by a Turkish official who was leaving Ibraila on the war +having broken out. He was fearfully excited, and begged of me on his +knees not to go to what he called certain destruction. He told me that +he had seen the Russians laying down torpedoes that same day, that the +batteries were numerous, and that they were aware of my coming, &c., all +of which I took with a considerably large grain of salt, and left him +lamenting my mad folly, as he called it. + +Now I must be candid. I did not _feel_ the danger. I calculated that to +put down torpedoes in a current such as was in the Danube would be a +matter of time, and probably they would not succeed after all. I had a +plan in my head for passing the batteries, so as to render them +harmless. So in reality I was about to attempt no very impossible feat. +Three hours after dusk we sighted the lights of Ibraila. The current was +running quite five knots an hour; that, added to our speed of fifteen, +made us to be going over the ground at about twenty knots. It was pitch +dark, and I think it would have puzzled the cleverest gunner to have hit +us, though they might have done so by chance. I determined not to give +them that chance, by going so close under the bank that the guns could +hardly be sufficiently depressed to hit us. + +As we approached the batteries to my horror a flash of red flame came +out of the funnel (that fatal danger in blockade-running), on which +several rockets were thrown up from the shore, and a fire was opened at +where the flame had been seen. Meanwhile we had shot far away from the +place, and closed right under the batteries. I heard the people talking; +every now and then they fired shot and musketry, but I hardly heard the +_whiz_ of the projectiles. My principal anxiety was that we might get on +one of the many banks so common in the Danube, and I had perhaps a +_little_ fear of torpedoes, especially when we passed the mouths of the +little estuaries that run into the Danube; once we just touched the +ground, but thank goodness we quickly got free, and though fired at by +guns and rifles, went on unhurt. It took us exactly an hour and forty +minutes to pass dangerous waters, and the early summer morning was +breaking as we cleared all danger. I could not resist turning round and +firing a random shot at the banks studded with Russian tents, _now that +I was able to breathe freely again_. + +I must say that my pilot, whom I at first suspected of being a traitor +in Russian pay, behaved splendidly. + +He told me he had never passed such a night of fear and anxiety: what +with my cocked pistol at his head and the constant fear of putting the +vessel on a bank, he certainly had had a bad time. However, I rewarded +him well. On arrival at Toultcha, a small town near the mouth of the +Danube, still held by the Turks, I found telegrams from headquarters at +Rustchuk (the place I had left), inquiring if Hobart Pasha had passed +Ibraila and Galatz, and ordering that if he had done so he was +immediately to leave the Danube. + +I cannot express my annoyance, as even at that moment I could have +brought a couple of small iron-clads that were lying at Sulina into the +river and played 'old Harry' with the Russian army, then advancing into +Roumania, _viâ_ Galatz. The bridge near Galatz could certainly have been +destroyed. It was hard on the gallant Turks, hard on the Sultan and his +government, and hard on me, to see such magnificent chances thrown away. +From that moment I trembled for the result of the war. I felt that, +although the Turks had a splendid army, and a fleet even for a +first-class European Power to be proud of, the obstinacy and stupidity +of the commanders of the Danube were sure to cause disaster. + +Unhappily my prognostications came true. In war the first blow is half +the battle, and it was sad to see such glorious troops out-manÅ“uvred at +the very outset. His Majesty the Sultan in his wisdom has justly +punished by banishment and disgrace these men who, instead of covering +the Turkish nation with glory through the deeds of its army, were the +cause of the defeat of the finest troops in the world. That the +Russians might and would have been beaten, had the means in the hands of +those commanding the Turkish army being properly utilised, is as clear +as day. However, it is not my business to comment on such matters. + +I now return to my own element, and will endeavour to describe some of +the occurrences of the war in the Black Sea. The Russians had three +lines of action in those waters. First, to capture Sulina, and to +destroy the squadron lying at anchor in its roadstead; second, to +capture Batoum and its much-envied harbour; third, the somewhat +undignified action of sending out fast vessels, mostly mail-boats, armed +with a couple of guns, their object being to destroy the Turkish +coasting trade. These vessels were most difficult to catch, as they +always watched their opportunity to slip out of their strongholds when +the Turkish ships were employed carrying troops, or otherwise engaged. +There was, I venture to think, some illegality in this conduct of the +Russian mail-boats. + +These vessels were not regular men-of-war, and they did not take their +prizes into port for adjudication, as is usual in war, always burning +what they could catch and capture. However, during war I suppose all +must be considered as fair play. While on the subject, I will recount +one or two exploits performed by these enterprising mail-boats. When +lying off Sulina, one of the ironclad corvettes under my command arrived +from Constantinople, where her captain reported having chased a +well-known Russian mail-steamer called the 'Vesta'; that they had +exchanged a few shots, that he had not followed her because his deck was +loaded with guns for the Sulina batteries. I thought no more about it +till about a fortnight afterwards I saw in the 'Times' a paragraph +headed, 'Turkish ironclad driven off and nearly destroyed by the Russian +mail-boat cruiser "Vesta."' This paragraph, which was founded on the +official report of the captain of the 'Vesta,' was most sensational. It +gave a graphic description of how the 'Vesta' had engaged at close +quarters a Turkish ironclad, killing her crew; how officers in European +uniform had been seen directing the working of the ironclad's guns, &c.; +how her sides were crimson with the torrents of blood pouring from her +decks, and how she would have been surely captured had the 'Vesta' been +provided with sufficient ammunition to enable her to continue the bloody +fight. It added that the gallant Russian commander was received with the +greatest enthusiasm on his arriving at Sebastopol, and immediately +promoted to high rank and covered with decorations. + +I could hardly believe my eyes when I read this utter nonsense. I know +the Russians; they are brave and loyal fellows, and few indeed are there +among them who have done (to say the least of it) so foolish an act as +to make so unfounded a report. + +However, the commander, whose name I will not mention, did not long wear +his laurels. I suppose he trusted to the Turks saying nothing about it; +but the truth was at last made public. A court-martial was assembled to +try the case, and I believe he was dismissed from the service and +deprived of his decorations. At all events I know for certain that he +was disgraced by his superiors, and held up to ridicule by his brother +officers. Serve him right! Swagger is always an error, and I don't think +naval officers are generally given to it. + +The next exploit of these cruisers I shall refer to was one that came +under my own eyes, and was exceedingly interesting. + +I was anchored with my flag-ship, a fine thirteen knot ironclad, and a +couple of other vessels, at a port some few miles to the north of Varna, +taking in coals, when the look-out man reported that he saw on the +horizon a column of smoke. I knew that this was not a Russian cruiser, +because these vessels always burnt smokeless coal. I guessed, however, +what it was, namely, that one of the Russian cruisers was burning an +unfortunate coasting vessel. On looking more closely from the mast-head +of the flag-ship, I saw the masts and two funnels of a steamer very near +to the burning ship. The cruiser was somewhat in shore of the place +where I was lying. He seems to have made my squadron out about the same +time I had seen him, and at once made tracks, as the Americans say, to +get out to sea. In doing so he had to near us considerably, so much so +that before steam was ready in the flag-ship I could pretty well discern +what the enemy was. Some persons may be surprised to hear that the +marauding vessel was no less a craft than the magnificent yacht of the +Emperor of All the Russias, called the 'Livadia,' which had condescended +to the somewhat undignified work of capturing small Turkish coasting +craft. Who can fancy the 'Victoria and Albert' being sent to sea, during +a war between England and France, to capture and destroy small coasting +craft on the French shores! However, there was the fact; it was the +'Livadia,' and no mistake. And now commenced one of the most interesting +chases I have ever seen. On our starting the yacht was about four miles +ahead of us, steering a course that would take her straight to +Sebastopol. She had got through all the necessary dangerous manÅ“uvres of +crossing our bows, from her having been inshore of us, before we moved. + +The weather was lovely, not a ripple on the water, dead calm. + +We commenced the chase at 4.30 p.m. Unfortunately our decks were loaded +with coal; however, we made a clean thirteen knots. At first it seemed +as if we were coming up with the chase, so much so that I felt inclined +to fire the long bow gun at her. But I always think and I say from +blockade-running experience that firing more or less injures a vessel's +speed; so I refrained from doing so. As night closed in a beautiful moon +rose and made everything as clear as day. The equality of our speed was +most remarkable, inasmuch as the distance between us did not vary a +hundred yards in an hour. All night we were watching, measuring +distances with nautical instruments, &c., hoping at moments that we were +nearer, despairing at others that she was gaining from us. We threw +overboard fifty or sixty tons of coal, to no avail; we could not get +within shot of the 'Livadia,' to capture which I would have given all I +possessed. As day broke we saw the crew of the 'Livadia' busily employed +throwing overboard coal and water. Sebastopol was in sight, and she was +running for dear life to that haven of safety. Lightening her had +certainly a good effect, for it was sadly evident to me that on doing so +she drew ahead a little, but very little. Now I hoped she would burst +her boiler or break down ever so little; but so it was not fated, and +the Emperor's yacht escaped by the skin of her teeth into Sebastopol, +under the protection of batteries that opened a tremendous fire on my +ship on my approaching, forgetful of their existence. I was obliged to +clear out of that pretty sharply or we should have been sunk. + +An ironclad corvette that accompanied me, though some miles astern at +the finish, ran so close in that she had her rudder shot away, and we +had the unpleasant task of towing her out under a fire more like a +hailstorm of shot and shell than anything I can compare it to. I am told +the 'Livadia' would have shown fight. I have no doubt she would; +Russians always fight well: but I think the result would not have been +doubtful, and the Emperor's crockery and glass, to say nothing of the +magnificent gettings-up in the cabins, would have lost much of their +lustre during an engagement. So the glory of taking the Emperor's yacht +into the Bosphorus was not to be mine. I cannot express my +disappointment at losing such a chance. The only consolation I have is +that I really believe the brave Russians would have blown her up, rather +than allow such a disgrace to fall on their flag. + +Since the war a Russian naval officer told me that he had under his +command at Sebastopol, on the day of my chasing the 'Livadia' into that +port, seven torpedo boats, with which he volunteered to go out and +attack us. His request was not allowed. We discussed at some length the +probable result. These are my views and arguments. I said to him, 'When +I saw your boats coming out I should have steamed away. Now the speed of +my frigate is thirteen knots. You would probably have had a speed of +nineteen to twenty at most. Thus your rate of approaching me would have +been six knots, no great speed with which to approach a vessel armed +with Nordenfelt guns, and six other guns also, _en barbette_, firing +grape, shell, &c. I am convinced we should have destroyed all the +torpedo boats.' 'Well, then,' said the Russian officer, 'I should have +followed and attacked you during the night.' 'There again,' I said, 'I +think you would have failed, because before dark you could not have got +near enough to me, on account of the opposition you would have met with +from my fire, to remark the course I steered after sunset, which course +I should have frequently changed during the darkness. A ship cannot be +seen in the dark if she shows no light at more than five hundred yards' +distance, and a moving ship would have been most difficult to hit; +besides which, if I had stopped and put down my defences, what could you +have done?' This discussion ended in the Russian officer admitting that +he did not think he could have done much. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +THE TURKISH FLEET DURING THE WAR. + + +To return to the doings of the Turkish fleet in the Black Sea during the +war, Sulina was a point from the beginning always aimed at by the +Russians. In fact, according to my humble ideas, Russia went to war to +get possession of Bessarabia, the key of the Danube, and Batoum, the key +to Asia Minor, and in a great measure to our Indian possessions. I think +the sentimental story of massacres in Bulgaria was merely a blind +whereby to catch the sympathetic support of Europe, and more especially +the English philanthropists. I think this, because when the most awful +cruelties were committed by the Bulgarians on the Turks _after_ the war, +we heard no outcry about massacres. However, I must not introduce +politics into Sketches from a sailor's life; such would be out of place. +Constant attacks were made by land and by sea on Sulina, which was held +and defended by Turkish ships and their crews, who manned the small +batteries they had planted at the mouth of the river. To the Russians, +to destroy the Turkish squadron lying off that port was of great +importance, as Sulina is entirely surrounded by water and great +impassable marshes, which extend far inland, through which marshes the +Danube runs, and thus can always be defended by ships. + +The Turkish squadron generally consisted of five or six ironclads, and +as the Russians had not ships wherewith to attack these ironclads, +torpedo attacks (of which so much was and is expected) was their only +chance. + +My idea of defending these vessels when at anchor was by a cordon of +guard-boats, with ropes made fast between them, so as to catch any +attacking torpedo boat, either by fouling her screw as she advanced, or +by stopping entirely her progress. Moreover, a torpedo boat thus stopped +would, by catching the rope, draw the guard-boat on either side of her, +or right on top of her. I must admit that while torpedoes at that time +were supposed to be in their infancy, the defence prepared against their +attack was also very much in its infancy, so these preparations were of +the most primitive description. + +The squadron, as I said, consisted of five vessels, which had been in +the habit of standing out to sea every night, to avoid torpedo attacks. +On the occasion I am writing about, they had returned to the anchorage +on account of bad weather. A Russian steamer with five torpedo boats in +tow started (as we afterwards learnt) from Odessa to hunt for the +Turkish squadron, which, it was known to them through their spies, was +in the habit of cruising off Serpent's Island, about eight miles from +Odessa. The Muscovites were unable to find their enemy, and I don't +wonder at it, for they were not in their usual cruising ground; even had +they been there, to find them would have been difficult, as the Turkish +ships always cruised in open order, burnt smokeless coal, and showed no +lights. On being disappointed in finding what she wanted at sea, the +Russian vessel steamed towards the anchorage off Sulina. As the weather +was bad, her commander decided not to attack, and I fancy had to cast +off his torpedo boats. + +One of these boats, if not more (I have never been able to ascertain +precisely what happened to the five torpedo boats that left Odessa), +made a dash at the Turkish squadron; the weather not permitting him to +use his Whitehead, he decided to try what his pole torpedo would do. As +he approached the head-most vessel, he found (as he explained afterwards +to me) that _something_ stopped his way, and he saw at the same time +several black objects approaching him. Nothing daunted, he struggled to +get close to the bows of the ironclad; when he got as near as he could +manage he fired his torpedo, without, however, doing any harm to his +enemy. Scarcely had he done this when he found himself in the water and +his boat gone from under him: the real facts being that the black +objects he had seen were the guard-boats, which were closing on him, the +ropes that connected them together having fouled his screw, and caused +the disaster; his boat was capsized and went to the bottom. Four or five +of her crew were drowned, as he would have been, had he not been fished +out of the water by the Turkish guard-boats, and made prisoner. + +The name of this daring naval officer was Putskin. His cool courage was +very amusing. When interrogated, while still in a half-drowned +condition, he exclaimed in excellent English, 'Why the devil didn't I +blow that ship up?' He was asked if he had any idea what stopped him, +and it was suggested to him that something must have fouled his screw. +He answered, 'I don't know what stopped me, but why the devil didn't I +blow the ship up?' I told him that I had a sort of notion he might be +hanged for using such a fearful weapon. He said, 'No brave man would +hang me; but why,' &c. + +He seemed to have only one idea, and that was he was a fool for having +failed. He was too good a man to let go, so we kept him till nearly the +end of the war. + +Wherever he may be now he is a fine fellow, whose bravery I for one +shan't forget in a hurry. + +A short time after the above-named occurrence the Russians attempted an +attack upon Sulina by land and water, with what object I have never been +able to understand; as, if they had succeeded, they could not have held +it so long as our ships were anchored in the offing. Perhaps their +intention was, by driving us out of the river, to utilise its position +for torpedo attacks. + +I have explained that Sulina was surrounded by sea and vast marshes. +Along the seashore there was a narrow causeway of sand, on which ten men +could march abreast. The only other approaches were by sea and by the +river, the latter, at about ten miles distance, being in the hands of +the Russians. As a defence we had placed on the beach, at about a +gun-shot's distance, several torpedoes, buried in the sand, and +connected by electric wires with the batteries of Sulina. A simultaneous +movement was made by three or four Russian gun-boats descending the +river, and two regiments of troops accompanied by artillery were sent +along the causeway. Suspecting something in regard to torpedoes, they +drove before them as a sort of advance guard about two hundred and fifty +horses without riders, it being the duty of the poor animals to take the +shock of the explosion should torpedoes be placed on the beach. And so +they did, for, on the horses passing the spot where the torpedoes were +placed, an explosion took place through which several horses were +killed. The rest turned right back, and the causeway being very narrow, +dashed amongst the advancing troops, causing the greatest confusion, so +much so that the whole party had to retreat and we saw them no more. + +It is true that one of the small ironclads had about got the range of +the advancing enemy along the sea-beach, so making their position rather +precarious, but I believe that the real cause of the failure was the +action of the horses. + +In the meantime, the light draft Russian gun-boats came down the river, +and began to fire shell and shot at a long range at the small town and +fortifications of Sulina. This was answered by the temporary batteries +alone, the ships being out of range. Desultory fighting went on for +about twenty-four hours, when the Russians, finding the hopelessness of +the enterprise, especially now that the troops had retired, gave it up +as a bad job and steamed up the Danube again. This was the only serious +attack made upon Sulina, which Russia could never have taken and held +till she had destroyed the Turkish fleet. After this I went to Batoum, +which place Dervish Pasha was gallantly holding against Russia. He was +sadly in want of naval help, as the Russians had advanced by the +sea-shore to within six miles of that much-coveted port. On arriving +there I took the command of eight Turkish ships of war, besides +transports that were constantly coming and going between Constantinople +and Batoum with provisions, ammunition, &c., for the army and navy. +Here, again, if the Russians could have disposed of the Turkish fleet +they would have easily taken Batoum. By commanding the sea, even with a +couple of vessels, they would have prevented supplies being sent. It +must be remembered there was no way of supporting the soldiers and +sailors except by sea. My first object was to drive the Russians, by the +fire of the ships, more inland. This was easy enough, as of course the +enemy had no guns with them to compare in range with those on board the +ironclads. Some time after my arrival, however, they brought down two +fifteen centimètre Krupp guns from Ardahan, guns that had a considerably +longer range than our twelve-ton Armstrongs. They gave us some trouble; +however, the position of the attacking camp was changed so as to be out +of range of our guns, a move in every way satisfactory to the Turkish +military commander. This action of our fleet gave great annoyance to the +enemy, and it was determined if possible to make our lying at Batoum a +dangerous if not impossible matter. This was to be done by the so-called +almighty torpedo. I received notice from our secret agent at Sebastopol +that a serious expedition was being organised, that the Turkish ships at +Batoum were to be destroyed or _frightened away_ at any cost. +_Frightened away, indeed!_ To the uninitiated a torpedo is a thing to +frighten any one away. We had heard of magnificent results of torpedo +trials in peace, how ships (I fancy only hulks) had been blown up, +columns of water half a mile high being sent into the air, &c. Nothing, +it was said, could save you. Whatever my ideas, however nervous I may +have felt, I knew that those I was commanding had no fear--they don't +know what it means, the more especially of a not understood possible +casualty, and though more enlightened as to torpedoes and their accepted +effects, I wasn't to show my people a bad example. When lying in bed in +the middle of the night, having read the warning letter before retiring, +I thought:--'Suppose one of these nasty things goes off and blows the +flagship up at this moment. How pleasant! What cowardly things these +are; no fair fight, up you go, unshriven. I have heard that a man who is +hanged is likely to go to heaven; I wonder if the same chance would be +given to him blown up by a torpedo?' These sort of feelings came over +me. However, said I, 'Let us see if we can prevent their being +realised;' so I went to work to try to do so. As a sportsman I +calculated that to fire at a dark object in the night, especially when +that object had a background of high hills such as we had at Batoum, was +most difficult, so the first order I gave was no lights, not even a +cigarette light; utter darkness under severe penalties. Next, +considering that Batoum is a very small port, with an entrance difficult +to find even in broad daylight, almost impossible in the night without +the lighthouse as a guide, I ordered that the lighthouse should not be +lighted. Then I arranged with the shore authorities that no lights +should be seen in the town; this was more difficult, as there were many +Russian friendlies in Batoum. + +However, the application of somewhat severe discipline made Batoum like +a city of the dead after dark. + +In addition to these precautions I put a barrier of booms ahead of the +ships lying in the port, placed guard-boats to watch it at the entrance +of the harbour, and having done all this, I bided my time. For some +nights, rather sleepless to me, though to my disgust I heard my officers +snoring all round me, nothing happened (though, as I heard afterwards, a +good deal had been going on outside the harbour), when, at about three +o'clock in the morning of the third or fourth night after I had received +the warning, I heard a row going on in the direction of the guard-boats +and an explosion near to one of the outlying ships. I had hardly time to +think, when something struck the chain of my flagship and seemed to spin +past, like a fish in the water. Then dead silence. I immediately sent +orders to the two fast cruisers, which were lying with steam up, to go +to sea and reconnoitre. + +Suddenly I heard people on shore calling out (I forgot to mention that +ships in Batoum harbour are always lashed to the shore). I sent my +officer to reconnoitre, who found a gaping crowd standing round what +they thought was a large fish lashing his tail, but what in reality was +an unexploded torpedo with the screw still in motion. On things being +calm I went myself to see what had happened generally during the attack, +and found that a torpedo had struck the bows of one of the ironclads on +the belt, at the waterline at an angle, had exploded, and scarcely left +a mark; that a second torpedo had, after passing through the planks on +the defensive barrier I had placed, _diverged from its course_, and gone +quietly on shore as far as the left of the squadron; that a third, as I +said, had struck the chain of the flagship and not gone off, but had run +on to the beach. The parts of another torpedo were afterwards picked up, +it evidently having exploded somewhere down below. So we could account +for four torpedoes having been fired at us without effect; probably +there were more. Those that were on the beach were in a very perfect +state, and as soon as we had rendered them harmless, we made prisoners +of war of them. Now I have been since informed of what went on outside +Batoum. It seems that for three nights two fast Russian steamers, +carrying torpedo boats, had been looking for Batoum, and as one of my +informants said, 'We could not find it for love or money.' A couple of +hours before daylight they had steamed off, so as to be out of sight +before break of day. At last they had bribed a man to light a fire in +the hills behind the town, and so on the fourth night they got +somewhere near it, but they could not make out the ships on account of +the _dark land behind_ them. The time for steaming off having nearly +come, they determined to have a shot at us, so fired five torpedoes into +what they thought the centre of the Turkish fleet, with what result we +have seen. The person who told me was one of them, and said it was +sickening work looking for Batoum. It is true the nights were fearfully +dark, so that the shape of the land could not be made out. He said that +without the traitor's light they could not have found us. I am not +saying by this that one should always trust to darkness; there are many +other ways _now_ of taking the sting out of torpedo attacks. It is +needless to say that the steamers I sent out returned, having seen +nothing. While the fleet was at Batoum, two or three more torpedo +attacks were made on a smaller scale without effect; but I have bored my +readers enough about torpedoes--all I know is that I can sleep now when +in their vicinity. While in the Black Sea I several times went with two +or three ships that could be spared from other duties and reconnoitred +Sebastopol and Odessa, but being fully convinced of the helplessness of +few or even of _many_ ships against the heavy batteries of the present +day, I did no more than look about me, occasionally exchanging shots +with the enemy. As to burning defenceless towns and villages, I have +always been thoroughly adverse to such things, so I never undertook it. +Some people think war should be made as horrible as possible; in this I +do not agree. I could easily have burnt the Emperor's palace at Yalta, +but did not think it expedient to do so. + +I have already spoken in general terms of the great services rendered by +the ironclads in moving the troops about, but I feel that, in justice to +the gallant crews of the squadron I had the honour to command during the +war, I ought not to bring this portion of my narrative to a close +without mentioning more particularly a piece of work of that nature +executed under my immediate direction. + +The capture of Soukhoum-Kaleh had been followed up by the despatch of an +expedition of some 4,000 men of all arms to a place some thirty miles +down the coast, called Tchamchira. The military commander at Soukhoum +had some idea, I believe, that this force would be able to make its way +inland, and thus encourage risings amongst the tribes against the +detested Muscovite rule. The country, however, was too unfavourable for +the advance of invading troops, being swampy ground with thick bush +where it was not an impenetrable forest. The Russians also got wind of +the intended movement, and to make a long story short, had managed to +collect a large opposing force. The expedition was landed, but that is +all. Before much could be done to secure the position as a base--whilst +the men in fact were making entrenchments--the Russians, who under cover +of the forest that extended right down to the beach on either side had +been stealthily making their preparations, attacked them on all sides, +and but for the covering fire of the ironclads, fortunately still at +anchor there, would undoubtedly have driven them into the sea. + +The result of this action enabled the force to establish itself in the +village, and hold possession of the small belt of cleared ground around +it, the extreme limit of which was still within the range of the guns of +the ironclads. + +The position of this force, however, daily grew worse. The Russians had +captured the fords, by which their retreat to Soukhoum was cut off. They +were completely surrounded, and only owed their preservation to the +continual presence of an ironclad. Under these circumstances it was +thought advisable to withdraw the men, and Dervish Pasha entrusted me +with the task. To give an idea of the precarious position of this force, +I may mention that, as I approached the place in my flagship, we heard +the sound of smart cannonading, and I found the guard-ship engaged with +a battery of field-pieces. The Russians had recently received a large +accession of force, and several field-guns of large calibre; and so, not +content with troubling the camp daily with an enfilading fire, had +thought to try conclusions with the heavy guns afloat. On our appearance +the action ceased, the Russians withdrawing their battery into the safe +shelter of the forest. The Russian fire had been well directed, and had +the guns been heavier calibre, considerable damage would have been +inflicted. As it was, the upper works and rigging were cut about a great +deal, and two men killed and four wounded on board the ironclad. After a +conference with the general in command, I proceeded to Soukhoum to make +arrangements for transport. I had hardly arrived there when a message +from Tchamchira arrived, urgently demanding assistance, as the Russians +were advancing in great force. I hurried back with all the vessels I +could collect to Tchamchira, three ironclad corvettes and two wooden +paddle-wheel transports. Fortunately the Russian attack had not +commenced, and the arrival of my squadron probably led to its +postponement until too late. To remove 4,000 men, bag and baggage, with +several batteries of field-pieces and a large amount of ammunition, was +no easy task with the small amount of transport at my command. I made, +however, what I considered to be the best disposition possible under the +circumstances. + +The corvettes and the paddle transports were moored in as close to the +shore as possible, my intention being to cram them with men and stores +first, leaving my flagship free to the last to manÅ“uvre off the Russian +camp and shell it, should the slightest opposition be offered to the +embarkation. The work commenced at daylight, and was actively carried on +throughout the day and following night, the last batch of men coming off +at dawn. The men were taken away from under the very teeth, as it were, +of the Russians. The ships in shore were well within rifle range, and +the boats passing to and fro were exposed the whole time to a fire from +hidden foes. The enemy had been evidently overawed by my preparations, +and doubtless thought it would be better for them to allow the invading +force to retire unopposed. To avoid the chance of grounding, in case I +should have to use the frigate fire to cover the embarkation, a +volunteer crew had proceeded off the Russian camp during the night, and +laid down a line of buoys, to show the limit of distance to which the +shore might be approached with safety. These buoys, glistening in the +sunlight, doubtless suggested to the Russians that something dreadful +was in store for them if they attempted to fire a gun, and so they +contented themselves with watching from the trees, amongst the branches +of which we saw a number of them perched like so many birds of prey. The +whole credit of the embarkation is due to the efficient manner in which +the naval officers under my command carried out the instructions given +them, and the great docility of the Turkish soldiers. Soon after sunset +the general and staff left the shore, and their example was followed by +every military officer of any rank; so that the whole work devolved upon +those I had placed in command of the beach and the boats. + +The men marched down quietly by themselves and everything went on like +clockwork. I must confess that I passed a most anxious night, as I knew +not but what at any moment the enemy might make a rush into the +entrenchments the Turks were abandoning, in order to claim a victory. My +own ship was getting lumbered up, and I knew that before long it would +be impossible to work more than one or two of the guns in case of need. +That the Russians, however, could not know this, was my comfort; but I +must own that it was a great relief to me when the last detachment left +the shore. The poor fellows had been holding the outposts all night. +They came in at the double, and little time was lost over their +embarkation. + +We steamed off at once to Soukhoum, and there disembarked the +expedition. Shortly after this I was called upon to prepare for a +veritable exodus. The evacuation of Soukhoum had been decided upon, but +His Imperial Majesty felt that the poor people, who had been expecting a +permanent deliverance from the Russian yoke, could not be abandoned to +those whose vengeance they had excited. Intimation was therefore given +that all those desirous of leaving the country should be carried to +Turkish territory, and provided with lands to form new settlements. The +whole population pretty well made up its mind to leave, and came +marching into Soukhoum with their flocks and herds, and household goods +and chattels. Suffice it to say that, with the vessels under my command, +I shipped off and landed at Batoum, Trebizonde, Sinope, and other ports +on the Turkish coast something like 50,000 people, counting men, women, +and children, within the space of a fortnight. + + + + +CHAPTER XX. + +SPORT IN TURKEY. + + +I will now endeavour to give my readers some idea of life at +Constantinople. If the resident is a sportsman he can find plenty of +amusement, game of all descriptions being plentiful. I may say that the +shooting begins about September 1, when great flights of quails pass the +environs of Constantinople, from the threatening winter of Russia to the +warmer climate of Egypt, and afford capital amusement. But really to +enjoy the sport it is necessary to go somewhat far, within ten miles of +Constantinople. The fields during the quail season are filled with +so-called sportsmen to such an extent that one has every chance of being +mistaken for a quail, and potted accordingly. I have counted at St. +Stephano, a place about nine miles from Stamboul, celebrated for +_treaties_ and quails, both in due season, more than five hundred +sportsmen accompanied by howling curs of every description. Such a +sight is worth looking at, but for sport, well--it is better to leave +gun and dogs at home. + +I once ventured out among the motley crowd of quail-shooters; there +happened to be a flight of quails, so the fire kept up very much +resembled a field-day on Southsea Common. I was hit all over with (thank +goodness!) very small shot, and made a rapid retreat to save my skin +from perforation. + +However, going some distance along the coast, away from the enemy, one +may at times get capital sport during the months of September and +October; for example, a single gun may bag a hundred and fifty to two +hundred quails in a day. + +After the quail comes the partridge shooting, which is very good, +especially in the islands of the Turkish archipelago, where there are +great numbers of red-legged partridges affording famous sport. + +To properly enjoy the shooting in Turkey a yacht is necessary, as the +best of it is to be found in the islands and near to the sea-coast, in +places quite inaccessible to roads. + +For example, the islands of Mitros, Lemnos, and Mytelene abound in +partridges, and the shooting there is really capital. + +Either by bringing a yacht from England, or by hiring one at +Constantinople, the real sportsman may have great amusement while +shooting, with Constantinople as headquarters. He will find in Asia +Minor deer of all descriptions, wild boars and wolves. Then he will have +capital sport with geese, ducks, woodcocks and partridges, and snipe. + +Occasionally he must rough it somewhat while sleeping in villages some +little distance from the sea-coast for a night or two, instead of +retiring on board his floating home, and on this head I would give a +word of advice to the sportsman. Always take up your quarters in a +Turkish village, if possible, in preference to a Greek village. At the +former you will find the traditional hospitality of the Oriental, even +among the very poor people, practised in every sense of the word; whilst +in the latter you will be _exploité_ (there is no English word that +signifies as well what I mean) to the last degree, even to the pilfering +of your cartridges. + +I have seen on arriving at a Turkish village every one vie with the +other, and doing their very utmost to make the sportsman and his party +comfortable. I have seen 'harems,' such as they are, cleaned out and +prepared as a sleeping apartment, all the inmates huddling together in +some little corner. I have remarked one old woman arrive with a couple +of eggs, another with what was perhaps her pet fowl, to be sacrificed at +the altar of hospitality--in fact, only one idea seemed to animate them, +namely, hospitality, and it is touching to see how they shrink from the +proffered reward made by the sportsman on leaving these kind though poor +and long-suffering people. + +There are different kinds of deer to be found in Asia Minor, which +strangely enough imitate the habits of the inhabitants, Greek, Turk, and +Armenian, by not herding together. + +First, there is the large red deer which generally inhabit the high +mountains and are difficult to get, except when the winter snow drives +them down into the lower grounds. I have been fortunate enough to kill +several of these splendid animals during my sojourn in Turkey. I will +give my readers an account of how I shot two of them. One day during the +winter, when the mountains were covered with snow, I received news that +three deer of the largest description were in a ravine at the foot of a +mountain some six hours' distance from Ismidt. I immediately started off +in pursuit. I must mention that all persons of high rank in Turkey have, +or had at the time I write of, by their shooting firman, the right to +call upon the villagers in the neighbourhood in which they are shooting +to assist in driving or searching for game. In my case it was not +necessary to take advantage of such an offer; every one was on the alert +for my arrival. The people told me that that very morning they had seen +the noble beasts I was after, grazing outside the wood. So, gathering +the villagers, boys carrying horns, men (much against my will) carrying +guns, accompanied by every available dog, from the grand shepherd's dog +to the yapping cur of the village, off we started. + +The ravine was thickly wooded, and extended far up the mountain, where +it ended in a bare spot without trees. To this place I went alone, +leaving the crowd behind me with directions not to move till I was in my +place, which instruction they most strictly followed. After half an +hour's walk I arrived at the place I have named. I had hardly time to +regain my breath when I heard a row below me as if Bedlam had been let +loose. I loaded my gun with buckshot in one barrel and ball in the +other, and remained as quiet as a mouse. As the noise of the beaters and +dogs approached me, I heard a crash in the bushes within about forty +yards of me, and presently a magnificent stag as big as a cow came +slowly out of the cover, looking behind him, evidently not expecting an +enemy in front. As soon as he was well clear of the bushes, I fired at +him with buckshot and killed him dead. I hardly had time to think, when, +with a tremendous rush, two other large deer broke out of the wood +straight at me at full gallop. I fired a bullet at the foremost one, +which turned back into the woods apparently wounded, and so it proved, +for it ran among the beaters, evidently having lost its head, and was +soon despatched among dogs, men and guns. He was a stag also, and as I +claimed to have shot him, I may say that I had the luck to shoot a brace +of splendid stags right and left. There is not a sportsman in Europe who +would not have been delighted at such a chance of red deer like these; +such as are not seen anywhere except in Asia Minor. The largest one had +nineteen points to his antlers, weighed when cleaned a hundred and +fifteen okes, equal to three hundred and twenty pounds English measure, +and certainly was the largest stag I have ever met with, either in +Scotland or in Austria. During the sixteen years that I have passed in +the East I have only succeeded in killing four of these splendid +animals. This I attribute very much to the want of proper deerhounds, +which unfortunately I have not been able to procure. + +The crowd of beaters make so much noise that the deer slip away at the +sides of the thick covers unseen, whereas dogs would drive them more in +a straight line towards the shooters if they are properly posted. In +addition to this, it is always a great advantage when the hounds give +tongue, and so warn the sportsman of the whereabouts of the game. These +hounds, called 'colpoys,' can be procured in Roumania and Hungary. There +is another description of deer found near the sea-coast in some parts of +Asia Minor, which I will describe. It is in fact the pure wild fallow +deer that stocks the parks of Europe, and if I am rightly informed is +only to be found wild in Asia Minor, and even there it is rare. + +I understand that in India or in Africa, where there are hundreds of +different sorts of deer, the real fallow is not to be found. While +shooting at a place called Camaris, near to Gallipoli, two years since, +I discovered several herds of these deer, beautiful creatures, wild as +hawks, and accordingly laid myself out to shoot some of them if +possible. I tried driving, stalking, and every manÅ“uvre to circumvent +them, without success. At last one day I started with my beaters to a +place where there were many tracks of fallow deer. I was posted at a +sort of small mountain pen, having on one side of me a young friend of +mine, and at the other a native (these fellows won't go out unless they +are allowed to carry their guns). + +Shortly after the beaters had begun to halloo, a fallow hind glided by +between me and my young friend, like a ghost. Not a sound in the wood +gave notice of its approach. It was even quieter in its movements than a +hare would have been. I put up my gun to fire, but seeing my friend's +head right in the way and in a line with its muzzle, I waited a second, +but the deer was gone. I had scarcely got over my disappointment when I +heard the branches breaking in the wood very near to me, and suddenly a +deer sprang right over my head, taking a flying leap, like a hunter +would do over a fence. + +This unusual action on the part of the deer called for unusual action on +my part. As he had taken a flying leap over my head, I took a flying +shot at him a second before he landed on the other side of me. The +result was that he rolled over like a rabbit, shot _from underneath_ +through the heart. This deer proved to be a very fine specimen of the +fallow, every point showing him to be of that species, except his +antlers, which were quite straight. This I cannot account for; the +natives, who had remarked this deer on several occasions feeding with +the herd of fallow deer, called it the 'Cassic Boa,' which means +'straight-horned.' Some time after this I had some good sport with the +fallow deer. Having got more accustomed to their habits, I found that it +was of no use trying to approach them, their scent being too keen, their +eyesight too sharp; the only way to get them is by very careful, in fact +I may say scientific, driving. + +Good boar shooting may be had by going some little distance from +Constantinople. It usually is done either by beaters or with boarhounds; +but I have had very good sport at boar while hunting for woodcocks and +pheasants, in what may be called covert shooting--not exactly English +covert shooting, in which almost every tree is known by the keepers, but +in coverts of great extent, in which there are almost impassable +thickets, made still more impassable by a well-known bramble called the +'wait a bit,' a thing that hooks on to your eyelids as you pass. + +There it is that in these coverts spaniels, half-English, half +country-bred dogs, do frequently the work of beaters, and it is a +strange fact that while piggy starts at once from his lair at the +approach of the boarhounds, he will not budge an inch for the little +yapping spaniel, whom he treats with contempt. + +I have known many instances when, on hearing a jolly row in the covert, +I have crawled in on my hands and knees, and found a boar being bayed by +my spaniels--in fact, I have killed more pigs in this way than in any +other. The danger is that you may have your dogs killed by the boar; +this has happened to me on one or two occasions, more especially with +young dogs. + +I had once a cunning old spaniel dog (poor 'Dick,' well known to most +sportsmen out here), who has frequently come out of the wood with his +mouth full of pig's hair, he evidently having torn the hair off the +animal while laying in his lair. (Dick was never hurt by a pig.) I have +often surrounded, with my brother sportsmen and myself, large bushes in +which the piggies were securely hidden, driven them out, and shot them +as one would do hares or rabbits. + +I have heard a good deal of the danger of pig shooting, on account of +the savage propensities of the animal; but I have found that, with very +rare exceptions, the Anatolian wild boar always runs. It is true that +they (she or he, the females are the most savage) have a nasty knack of +giving a sort of jerk with their heads, when fighting or even passing an +enemy, and that jerk means to a man the ripping up of his leg from his +heel to his thigh, to a dog the tearing open of his entrails. + +On one occasion I was out cock shooting, when some shepherds' dogs in a +valley adjoining that in which I was walking started a large wild boar, +a beast they call a '_solitaire_,' from the fact that he is always seen +after a certain time of life alone. The animal made for a ridge dividing +the valleys; on getting there he passed along the sky-line, about eighty +yards from where I was. I changed my cartridges and fired a ball at the +pig, who rushed away, apparently unshot; on going to the spot, however, +where he had passed when I fired, I found some drops of blood. This +blood I traced for about half a mile, till I came to a large clump of +bushes into which my spaniels dashed, evidently close to their game. I +heard a tremendous row in the bushes, had hardly time to prepare when +the great beast with his eyes all bloodshot and foaming at the mouth +rushed straight at me. I was on a narrow path, from which there was no +escape, as the boar was tearing up it, followed by the dogs. I fired a +ball straight in his face, at the distance of about two yards, in spite +of which he rushed straight on, knocked me clean over, and while passing +me made the usual dangerously effective jerk I have alluded to above, by +which he cut my _boot from the ankle to the thigh_, drew a little blood +just above and inside of the knee; after which the boar rushed headlong +for about thirty yards and dropped dead. I found that my bullet had +smashed through his forehead straight between the eyes and gone into his +brain. + +He was an enormous brute, weighing when cleaned twenty-one stone; +carrying the finest tusks I have seen anywhere as belonging to a wild +boar. I only had one man with me; we were what may be called eight miles +from anywhere. Still I was determined not to leave my prize; so I sent +my man for a country waggon, and sitting down on my now harmless beast, +smoked cigarettes and waited quietly till the vehicle came. + +Now, _apropos_ to wild boar attacking people, I am convinced that this +animal had no intention of attacking me. + +He was, though badly wounded by the first shot, running from the dogs, +and I got in his way. _Voilà tout_! On only one other occasion I nearly +came to grief while boar shooting. On my arriving at a Turkish village +one night, I was told that there was an enormous boar in the +neighbourhood, who for a long time had been the terror of the country, +inasmuch as he, accompanied by a large party of the pig tribe, had +rooted up the crops all round the village, destroyed gardens, and +tradition even said had killed children and eaten them (this latter +story I don't take in). However, the poor people prayed me with tears in +their eyes to rid them of their enemy, which I promised to do if +possible. So the next morning off we started in the following order: +first, myself and friends, accompanied by the elders of the village +armed with old-fashioned guns; then the young men with knives and big +sticks, the women and children bringing up the rear as lookers-on. I and +my two friends were escorted into the centre of a large wood, in which +very original _seats in trees_ had been knocked up for us. The object of +these seats was for our personal safety, but I as a sportsman saw at +once that to be up a tree was not only advantageous in that respect, but +also that we should be much more invisible, hidden among the branches of +a tree, than by being stationed on the ground. So we mounted our trees, +and the beaters went into the woods some half a mile from us. I never +heard such a row as they made when they began the drive; they beat +drums, fired guns, rang bells, and it was evident to me that no wild +beast would hold to his lair under such a torrent of abuse. I found the +words they were using were curses on the wild boar. I saw two or three +fallow deer glide past me, with their usual ghostlike silence, and +shortly afterwards the woods very near me seemed to shake with +something coming. Suddenly some fifteen to twenty wild boar appeared +among the bushes, coming straight towards me. The first of these was an +enormous brute, evidently _the_ boar we wanted. + +I heard shots on either side of me from my friends, but I kept my eye on +the big boar. To my astonishment he came right under the tree where I +was sitting, and stopped to listen. + +He cocked his head on one side, looked all round him, but forgot to look +up the tree he was quite close to, in which was his enemy. + +Taking advantage of this I fired a ball and an S.S.G. cartridge into +him, before he could make up his mind which way to go; he gave a +tremendous grunt and rolled over. I had not time to be overjoyed at my +luck before I found myself rolling on the ground alongside of my victim, +who, not being dead, was by no means a pleasant companion. The fact is +that the seat on which I had been perched, having been very carelessly +put up, had given way, and down I came from a height of about twelve +feet. The branches of the tree had broken my fall, but my gun had fallen +out of my hand and I had sprained my ankle, so that I was in rather an +awkward position. The boar was shot through the spine, and could not +get along, though he made frantic efforts to get at me. + +It was of no use my calling out for help; everybody was calling out, +everybody was excited, firing at the lots of pigs that were running +about in all directions. At the moment when I began to think affairs +somewhat serious (I tried to get up and walk, but could not do so on +account of my ankle), as the boar was crawling towards me, looking very +mischievous, two great shepherd's dogs arrived on the scene, and went +straight in for my enemy. Poor beast! He made a gallant fight; he could +hardly move, but he could use his head, and he tore one of the dogs open +in a frightful way; then two or three men came up, but they were afraid +to go near to the boar. I made them hand me my gun that was lying on the +ground near me, with which I soon put a stop to the battle. Then all the +people began to muster round their dead enemy, and it was laughable to +see and hear how they abused and kicked the body of the pig. How to get +the carcass away was the next question. We sent for two waggons and four +or five Christians (as the Turks won't touch pig), one to carry me, the +others the boar; so, after being placed in the waggons, we made with +piggy a triumphant return to the village. Luckily the village was on the +sea-shore, and my yacht was lying close to the land, so I got on board +comfortably; but it was several days before I could walk. + +I believe that that pig was _nasty_, and would have given me the jerk if +he could have done so. Five other boar were killed on that occasion, one +of my friends killing two; but I had the honour of killing _the_ boar of +the period in that part of the world. While referring to that +neighbourhood, I would mention that it was within five miles of the +place I have been writing about that poor Captain Selby, of H.M.S. +'Rapid,' was killed, some two years since. There are people who think +that he was attacked and murdered by robbers. Such is not the case; his +death was a most unfortunate occurrence brought on by a +misunderstanding. + +It is true that the man who shot poor Selby was an ignorant savage, but +there was no premeditation. It was a word and a blow. The latter, though +inexcusable to the last degree, was given by a ruffian whose class are +in the habit of shooting and stabbing one another (let alone strangers, +whom they detest) at the slightest provocation. They are not natives of +Turkey, but come of strange tribes who live far away and are hired to +guard the sheep in the winter months, returning to their homes in the +summer. I went myself to the spot where the sad occurrence took place +shortly afterwards, and found the people very penitent and very +frightened. Let us hope that the punishment awarded to the principal +actors in the sad affair will be a salutary warning for the future. + +As brigandage may be considered as in some way connected with sporting, +inasmuch as many refrain from going out shooting when they fear being +robbed and murdered, I will say a few words about brigandage in +Anatolia. + +I have been for seventeen years an ardent lover of sport in Turkey, and +have generally shot in Asia Minor. I have slept in villages that were +supposed to be inhabited by brigands. I have been almost alone among an +armed crowd of beaters, all of whom had the reputation of being robbers, +but I have never been robbed or threatened with robbery. Perhaps there +exists a sort of sympathy between brigands and sportsmen, for I cannot +call to mind any instance of a sportsman being robbed. It is true that +sometimes a fat financier, or rich _rentier_, who may have called +himself a sportsman, has been carried off and ransom demanded for him, +but a real sportsman never. + +It is true that in some of the villages where dwell the peoples of a +nation I am not supposed to love, you are liable to and probably will +be _exploité_ to a considerable extent in the way of pilfering +cartridges, &c., but it is their nature to. So, brother sportsmen, when +you come out here take your abode in Turkish villages. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +SPORT AND SOCIETY. + + +I have mentioned, in what I have written above relating to sport, the +name of a somewhat celebrated spaniel of mine, whose name was 'Dick.' + +The commencement of this bow-wow's career was as strange as the many +adventures he afterwards went through. When he was quite a young dog, he +once worked with me all day in ice and snow, and at last fell down +lifeless. A heavy snowstorm was raging, and as poor Dick seemed quite +dead, we made him a grave in the snow and covered him up with leaves and +bushes. We accomplished this with difficulty, on account of the blinding +snow and the streams that were much swollen by torrents from the +mountains. Dick's burial-place was about eight miles from where the +vessel was lying. We all got on board that night. I was deeply grieved +at the loss of the dog, who had already shown great promise as a +first-class sporting dog, a most difficult thing to procure in this +country. What was our astonishment the next morning at daylight to see +Dick on the beach, making piteous howls to draw attention to his +whereabouts. He was warmly welcomed, as may be supposed; he did not seem +a bit the worse for his brief sojourn in the grave, and went out +shooting again the same day as happy as ever. This enthusiastic little +spaniel was always doing strange things; he followed every fox and every +badger into their holes, and we have had, time after time, to dig him +out covered with blood and fearfully mauled, after having passed perhaps +twenty-four hours in the earth. + +Mr. Dick generally hunted alone, occasionally coming near to see that I +was all right. Now this sounds bad for Dick's qualities as a sporting +dog, but such a dog is necessary in a thickly-wooded region such as I +shot in, when one wants to know what is in the country. + +Dick, when he found anything, barked loudly; and this drew attention to +the fact that there was game in that quarter. Sometimes, of course, he +drove the game away; at others he drove it towards me. At all events he +went to places where I never could have gone. On one occasion I heard a +great noise among some long reeds near a lake were I was duck +shooting--Dick barking, some other animal making a strange noise. This +went on so long that at last I went to see what was the matter. After +much trouble I got into the reeds and approached the noise, which was +momentarily getting worse. On coming close I found an animal about +Dick's size standing on its hind legs and fighting with its fore paws, +Dick covered with blood, fighting hard and watching an opportunity to +close with his enemy. On my approach the animal dropped on to fore paws +and endeavoured to escape, on which Dick jumped on to him, thus making +it very difficult for me to use my gun. However, at last, by watching my +opportunity, I fired a shot which disposed of the fighting powers of the +beast, which turned out to be a very large badger. I never could +understand what he was doing so far away from his place of refuge. Was +he after ducks, or what? The animal was at least a quarter of a mile +away from dry land, being in the middle of a marsh, overgrown with +reeds. Another of Mr. Dick's adventures ended more unfortunately for +him, as I fear he never got over its effects. I again, as on the last +occasion, heard him evidently furiously engaged with something in a +thick wood. After crawling on my hands and knees for some time, I found +Dick and two other of my spaniels in furious combat with an enormous +wild cat, who when I came up was holding her own against the dogs. The +beast got her back against a tree, and was fighting all three dogs, +keeping them at a respectful distance. My man seized a piece of wood, +more like a little tree than a stick, and made a blow at the cat, which +blow unfortunately came down with great force on Dick's head. The poor +dog lay senseless for some time, and then crawled away, seeming to say, +'I'll have nothing more to do with you.' He never recovered that blow, +and became quite a different dog, dying some months afterwards. + +The feathered game shooting is very good in the neighbourhood of +Constantinople. Pheasants, though rare, may be obtained five or six in a +day. I have killed fifteen to my own gun, and with a party of three we +bagged sixty-six in three days. + +Snipe shooting is also very good. An idea of the bags that may be made +will be seen when I say that at Besika Bay, close to the Dardanelles, I +killed in three days three hundred and three snipe, an average of one +hundred and one a day. When there is snow lying on the hills there are +plenty of cock; myself and two friends having killed in three days two +hundred and ninety-eight long bills. + +My best bag in cock has been sixty-three in one day's shooting alone. I +have lately taken to punting after ducks, and have been very successful. +One gets twenty to thirty a day, and occasionally a swan. I once killed +four of the latter with one shot from my punt gun (one of Holland & +Holland's). Hares are not very numerous; to get three or four in a day +is counted good luck; but one generally picks up one or two during a +day's shooting. Thus the sum of what you have in this country is red +deer, fallow deer, roe deer, pigs, wolves, and bears (as to the latter, +rare), hares, pheasants, cocks, snipe, quails, and ducks; so that a man +who lays himself out for sport and has a yacht can have plenty of +amusement between September and March. + +The coast of Karamania, taking in all the coast from some distance below +Smyrna, passing Rhodes and so on to the Gulf of Ayas, affords all the +way along capital sport to yachting men. For example, in the large gulfs +of Boudroum and Marmorice, capital anchorage will be found, and a +country almost virgin as far as sport is concerned. + +Some years since, while commanding an English ship-of-war, I had the +good fortune to be sent on a roving commission against pirates that were +supposed to infest that coast. Somehow I always _imagined_ that pirates +were more or less sportsmen, so I hunted for them in places that looked +gamey, and thus made the acquaintance of many almost unknown, or at all +events unfrequented, harbours and creeks, in which I had famous sport. +On the coast of Karamania the ibex is to be found in considerable +quantities; the red-legged partridge and the francolin are also very +abundant, and give capital sport. + +There are also at the head of the gulf I have alluded to large marshes +for duck and snipe. The most celebrated, because the best known place in +the part I am alluding to, is the Gulf of Ayas, into which runs the +well-known (to all naval sportsmen) river called the Jihoon. A yacht +must anchor at some distance off the entrance of this river, but the +anchorage is quite safe in all weathers. Getting over the bar of the +river is a matter at times of considerable difficulty, but once inside +the bar you are in the paradise of shooting. A small steam launch is +necessary to stem the strong current, and to tow another boat up with +tents, provisions, &c. It is true that in my time we had no steam +launches, and I shall not forget the hard work we had to take two boats +sufficiently far up the river to get well into the shooting grounds, and +even after two days' struggling we did not arrive so far as I should +have wished (we, in fact, only got four miles up the stream). Still we +had some rare sport, the more especially with pigs and francolin. The +morning after we had pitched our tents some wandering Arabs came to us +and offered to beat the woods, which they declared to be full of wild +boar. They told us that the habit of these animals was, on being driven, +to take to the river and swim to the other side; so we placed our guns +along the banks and told the boat to guard the river from pigs swimming +across, and try to stop them as best they could. The guns available for +the shore work consisted of myself and two friends and my coxswain, who +was armed with a ship's rifle. The Arabs went into the bush on +horseback; the beat had hardly begun when a lot of pigs were started, +all making for the river; three of these were knocked over. As they +approached several others dashed into the river, and a most amusing hunt +was made after them by the sailors. Not being armed with rifles, their +weapons of offence against piggy were revolvers, ropes, and the +stretchers of the boats. + +There was, as may be supposed, great excitement among the men when the +pigs took to the water; they at once went at them, firing revolvers, +pulling after them as they swam, using language not allowed in these +refined days in the navy; and, before we got to the scene of action +they had lassoed as it were two fine pigs, and tied them to trees on the +river-side, and when we arrived were firing their revolvers at them +apparently with very little effect; however, we soon gave the animals +the _coup de grâce_. Thus we killed five pigs in our first drive. We +took the liver, alias fry, out of the pigs to eat (it is most +excellent), cut off the heads of the tuskers, and hung the remaining +parts on a tree to wait our return, changing our camp further up the +river the same night. The next morning early I took a stroll into the +woods by myself; while looking about me I saw what I thought was a large +animal sleeping in the bushes. I began accordingly to stalk him. I got +within eighty yards, put my gun up to shoot, but as I could not pitch on +a vital part to aim at, only seeing a mass of what was evidently an +animal rolled up, I went nearer and nearer; in fact, little by little, I +got within ten yards of the quarry; then I fired a ball into what I now +saw was a huge pig. No move! What did it mean? I could not have killed +it sleeping. However, I took courage and went close and put my hand on +the beast; what should it be but an immense boar lying dead in his lair. +He must have died months before I found him, as the skin fell to pieces +on being touched, the hair into powder; his head was a splendid one, +but I could only save the jawbones, in which were a grand pair of tusks. +The moral of this was that pigs, like everything else, die--sometimes +quietly in their beds, be that retreat only a lair in the forest; but it +is a rare occurrence to find relics of wild animals in so perfect a +state. I fancy their friends and relations generally eat them. The bed +or lair he was lying in was a most snug spot, and he would have been +quite invisible had not some of the brushwood been burnt away, Arab +fashion, a short time before I found him. + +I must warn any sportsman intending to shoot in the Jihoon river that +the wandering Arabs who are to be found there, though not brigands of a +high order, are petty thieves to the last degree. We were always obliged +to keep a watch in our tents, leaving a man behind in charge when we +went on shooting excursions. On one occasion we found on our return that +our watchman had captured an old woman whom he caught in the act of +creeping under the tent and stealing a spoon. I had myself a curious +adventure. An Arab told me that he knew where a boar was lying in the +long grass, and that he would take me to the spot if I would accompany +him. We started off together, and on getting well into the wood we went +on our hands and knees, crawling under the trees and brushwood, towards +the spot where the boar was supposed to be. We had to keep quite close +together. I carried round my neck a very pretty silver whistle, which I +prized exceedingly. Suddenly, when we were in a very thick part of the +bush, the Arab seized hold of my whistle and held it tight. I +immediately grasped the hand that held the whistle; this I did with my +right hand holding his left. He, with his right hand, tried to draw a +knife. I, with my left, tried to get my gun to bear on him, but there +was so little room to spare on account of the thick bush that both our +operations were difficult of performance. As soon as I saw him trying to +draw a knife, I dropped the hand with the whistle, and seized that with +which he tried to draw the knife. Thus the play went on for two or three +minutes; neither of us spoke, all our energies were directed on our +different games. At last, by turning round a little, I succeeded in +giving him a tremendous kick, which rolled him over on his back; then my +gun was free, and I held it to his head, upon which he took an attitude +of supplication on his knees, and prayed for quarter. I made him give me +his knife, go on all-fours again, and creep before me out of the wood. +This was a most audacious attempt at petty robbery. I should like to +have peppered him a little, but he was so penitent, I decided to let +him go. I don't think he meant to stab me; I think he merely wanted to +cut the string that held the whistle. These men were not generally +murderers. On this trip we killed twelve pigs, a hundred and seven +francolin, one lynx, and lots of cock and ducks. Coming back to the ship +I, and those with me in my boat, very nearly came to utter grief. There +was a good deal of sea on the bar of the river. The cutter that was with +me got over all safe, but my whale-boat being loaded heavily with pigs, +&c., refused to rise with the waves, and not doing so, the consequences +were that she filled and capsized. We had all to jump and make for the +shore, a distance of nearly a mile, being in the greatest danger while +doing so of getting into the current of the river. Any one who had done +this must have been washed away and drowned; however, thank goodness, +all hands were saved. The whale-boat was afterwards picked up, having +been washed out to sea, but we lost all tents, spare guns, &c.; the pigs +remained in the boat, as they were stowed under the thwarts, and hadn't +room to float out; so, friends, take warning of the bar of the Jihoon +river. + +It was about this time that I received a report from some American +missionaries to the effect that one of their comrades had been robbed +and murdered by some Arabs who inhabited the mountains near +Alexandretta, people whose evil deeds had for some time past brought +them into notoriety. Although I was under orders to join the +commander-in-chief, I took it upon myself to remain and assist the +Americans in hunting down if possible the murderers of their comrade. + +I confess I was made more zealous in the cause from hearing that there +were 'lots of big game on the hills.' I invited two or three of these +American missionaries to join my mess, and off we went to look for the +murderers. As this is a chapter on shooting, I will as briefly as +possible state what we did in the official way. In the first place we +anchored at the head of the Gulf of Ayas, near a large town where +resided the chief authority of the neighbourhood in which the murder had +been committed. I landed with the missionaries, several of my officers, +and some marines to act as an escort, and paid an official visit to this +gentleman, who was called the caimakam, or chief magistrate. This great +man told us that we should certainly with his assistance find the people +we were after. He suggested that we should accompany him with a small +body of our men, to which he could add some of his zeptiehs: that thus +accompanied he would go to a place on the hill where we should find +what we wanted. He said that a little 'backsheesh' was necessary. This +latter we found, and the next day we started. + +We ascended amongst the most magnificent wooded hills I ever saw. 'Such +places for game!' thought I, till at last we halted at a clump of +splendid oak trees. Under one of these a grand luncheon was spread, of +which we were all invited to partake. During the luncheon a man rushed +up to our host and whispered in his ear something which seemed to give +him great satisfaction, for he at once smilingly said, 'Captain, I have +found the men you are after;' and sure enough we saw approaching two +ruffianly looking fellows, tied together, and being dragged along by men +on horseback. I hope they were the right men. I will presume that they +were, but they had been very quick in catching them. After my missionary +friend who spoke their language had interrogated the prisoners, he +requested that they might be kept apart, which was done, and they were +given in charge of separate sentinels, to whose horses they were tied. +We then returned to our lunch, our pipes, and our coffee. Suddenly we +heard a pistol shot, a rush, and a scream from the neighbourhood of the +prisoners. It seems that one of them had drawn the pistol from his +guardian's belt, shot him dead, jumped on to the horse, and galloped +off. Everybody, marines and all, tried to follow. Such a row never was +heard; but the man knew the country, and we saw him no more. I was +rather glad, for he must have been a plucky fellow. + +The other prisoner was doubly secured and taken down to the village. He +was afterwards hanged, so justice was satisfied and my work finished. I +got a letter of thanks from the President of the United States, of which +I was and am still very proud, and meant to have used had +blockade-running brought me to grief. + +This business being satisfactorily concluded, I asked my friend the +caimakam if there was any big game to be had. His answer was, 'Chok au +Va,' which meant there was plenty: and he undertook to beat the +neighbouring woods that very day with his men. We were told that there +were plenty of roe deer, foxes, jackals, &c., so we loaded our guns with +S.S.G. cartridges (which means, I may tell it to the uninitiated, +buck-shot). We were stationed on the outskirts of a splendid oak wood +that looked like holding any mortal thing in the way of game. Soon as +the beaters set to work cocks began to fly about in all directions, but +we had an instinct that something more important would turn up, so took +no notice of feathered game. I was watching close, trying to look +through almost impenetrable brushwood, when I heard a rustling sort of +noise near me, and suddenly I caught sight of something which almost +made my hair stand on end--a great tiger leopard, creeping, stealthily +as a cat, out of the wood, within twenty yards of where I was standing. +Fortunately he did not look my way. What was I to do? My gun, as I said, +was loaded with buck-shot; a miss or a wound would have been sure to +bring the brute on top of me. However, I did not hesitate more than a +couple of seconds; I pointed my gun at his heart just behind the +shoulder, and pulled the trigger. The whole charge went straight where I +pointed it, and the tiger rolled over on his back. I put a ball into my +gun and approached him very gingerly. When I got close to him I found he +hadn't a kick in him. His claws were crunched up as if grasping +something, his grand eyes were growing dim, and though, to make all +sure, I fired a ball into his head, it was not necessary, as I found +nine buckshot in the heart. He was a splendid beast, eleven feet from +tip of tail to end of nose. It was said that he had killed a shepherd +some days before, so he deserved his fate. + +Before returning to the ship that evening, we arranged that the Arabs +should turn out the next day to drive the covers on the beach near the +ship, which were supposed to hold deer and pigs. I must mention that +these Arabs are very different to the wandering tribes we had lately +been amongst; they are warlike, unscrupulous, and dishonest. We made an +arrangement with them that _all_ game killed should belong to us, the +beaters being paid in gunpowder, which they prized very much. The Arabs +thought we should only find pig, and as Mussulmen won't touch it, the +bargain was considered satisfactory to both parties. + +It so happened that at the first drive a very fine deer, of a species I +had never seen before, broke cover. I had the luck to shoot him, and as +the ship was lying very near, we hailed her for a boat in which to send +off our game. I saw a good deal of whispering among the Arabs, who, +after some discussion, informed us through one of the missionaries, who +kindly acted as interpreter, that the deer must belong to them, as they +only promised to give the pigs, and they openly declared we should not +take it on board. I wasn't going to stand this, for many reasons. In the +first place it was necessary to show these people that we were their +masters; secondly, by our agreement the deer was ours. When the boat (a +cutter with ten men unarmed) had come on shore, I gave orders for the +men to return and bring their arms and ten marines, also armed. The +Arabs, of whom there were about one hundred armed to the teeth, seemed +firm in their decision; so was I. When I pointed to my armed men, who +were by this time landing, they pointed with the same significant +gestures to their armed men. At this critical moment, my first +lieutenant, seeing that something was wrong, fired a shell right over +our heads to intimidate the Arabs, and the result showed that it had +that effect. The deer was lying on the beach. I ordered the marines to +form a cordon round him, and the sailors to bring up the boat stretchers +on which to lay the animal. When all was ready I gave the command to +carry it away and put it in the boat. The Arabs cocked their muskets and +made a move forward; the marines turned and faced them. I thought we +were in for a fight; however, the bearers carried off their charge and +placed it in the boat, when to my astonishment the Arab chief put down +his musket and came and made his salaam to me, asking if he might be +allowed to visit the ship. I, of course, was delighted. We took him and +several of his friends on board, and the visit ended in their all +getting roaring drunk, being hoisted over the ship's side and landed on +the beach. So passed off what might have been a serious affair. I might +have become involved in a long explanation to show that I was right in +protecting my game by armed force, but under all the circumstances I +feel that I was fully justified in doing so. + +I should like before finishing these sketches to say something about the +society of Constantinople. As one cannot always be out shooting, it is +very important to our happiness to have something to fall back upon in +the social way. I was told once by a very great friend of mine, who saw +that I was inclined to fret, 'to take everything as a joke.' If one's +liver is in good order it is very easy to do so, but sometimes the +contrary is the case, and it makes one at times quite savage to see the +airs that are temporarily put on by those that form the so-called upper +or diplomatic society of Pera. Here are really amiable people so utterly +spoilt by the exalted idea of their own dignity that they become +absolute bores, especially to any one accustomed to good society. If you +go to a soirée you see grouped together, for fear of contamination with +the outsiders (without which a successful party cannot be formed), the +members of the so-called 'sacred circle,' talking to each other in +dignified (or undignified, as the case may be judged) whispers. While +all are cheerful and gay, you scarcely see a smile on the countenances +of these tremendous swells. + +If you go in the street you will meet a creature dressed in most +gorgeous apparel, armed to the teeth with firearms that probably won't +go off, knives and daggers covered with precious stones, walking +solemnly along. If you look carefully among the crowd in his wake you +will discover some one, or ones, walking with an indignant swagger at +being hustled by the vulgar crowd. The man in gold, armed to the teeth, +is what is called a _cavass_, and these swells behind are the +representatives, male or female, of some foreign potentate, taking a +walk. It would be quite _infra dig._ to go without one of these useless +appendages. Again, if an individual not belonging to the 'sacred circle' +meets a foreign representative who condescends to speak to him, and +while he is doing so another member of an embassy 'heaves in sight,' the +first swell will immediately sheer off, looking ashamed at having so far +forgotten himself as to be seen speaking to any one outside 'his +circle.' You may occasionally be invited to the houses of these exalted +personages, but there is always an implied condescension in their +attitude which tends to negative the effect of their good intentions. +And all this is a great pity, because these people must be tired of +each other, and would find quite as much intelligence outside as inside +their circle. Besides, there are charming people among them who would +ornament any society, but their ill-acted airs of 'brief authority' +quite spoil them, and make them, as I said, bores to themselves and to +those who would be their friends. + +I will, in proof of what I say, relate a short anecdote as to what +occurred in the house of a friend of mine. + +This friend gave a very large fancy dress ball, at which two or three +hundred people were present. The ball was in every way a success, but as +the giver did not belong to the 'sacred circle,' the members of that +body only condescended to go for a short time. I have no doubt (for +there are lots of jolly people among them) that they would have liked to +have stopped much longer, but it was not thought 'dignified.' So, after +a short time, most of the 'sacred circle' sneaked away. One of them who +had two charming daughters, devoted to dancing, not having noticed the +departure of the great people till that moment, came hurriedly to my +friend and said, 'Goodnight, I _must go_, every one is gone.' 'Every +one?' said my friend, 'why, look at the rooms, there are at least two +hundred people dancing and amusing themselves.' 'Yes, I see,' said the +diplomat (he was rather a small one), 'but I mean the ambassadors and +their parties, are gone, so I _must_ go; but for once, to please you, +I'll leave my daughters.' I believe my friend answered, 'You may go to +the d----l.' This is a fact, and shows the unfortunate system that ruins +to a great extent the sociability of society in Pera. + +Now it is true that all these people are called barons, counts, +viscounts, &c., but my friend belongs to a right good family, and would +have been more than the equal of many of them had they met in Paris, +London, St. Petersburg, Berlin, or Vienna. The title of baron, &c., +seems to me to be always given to a diplomat _ex-officio_. However, +barons or no barons, the rule of exclusiveness laid down by the 'sacred +circle' at Constantinople is to be deplored as it injures society sadly. +Few large parties are given now except those got up by the great people. +When an outsider sends out invitations for a ball, or any other kind of +_réunion_, the negotiations that go on between the swells as to whether +they should patronise it or not are comical in the extreme. Should ever +so slight an omission in the form of these invitations, or a mere +accident in the delivery thereof, appear to them to touch their dignity, +they will probably all absent themselves in a body, even were it +question of the marriage or the funeral of one of their oldest and most +respectable acquaintances. Not being one of them, and not caring very +much for artificial society, I look on with great amusement. Some one +gave great offence on a late occasion, while describing society in Pera, +by suggesting that if there were a European court here things would be +very different; so they might. People would then find their level, as +they do in other capitals. + +I feel very sorry for the members of the 'sacred circle.' Not only do +they lose much now, but it will be awkward for them when they go back +from whence they came. A short time ago I asked a very high and mighty +personage if she did not fear the change that must come when she left +Constantinople. She answered with great frankness: 'I feel that most of +what you say is correct, but before I came here I was very small fry; +now I know I am a swell, and mean to enjoy myself.' She was like those +reckless ones who cried: 'Let us eat and drink, for to-morrow we die.' I +have seen a stand made by one or two of these mighty ones, an attempt to +break down the system of pompous exclusiveness, but that attempt +unfortunately failed. + +I must say that the foreign colonies in Pera are much to blame, for +they worship with all their minds and all their strength their different +chiefs and chieftainesses, and human nature being weak, &c. &c. + +Apart from the 'sacred circle' there is a nice little society where +people go in for enjoying themselves, and succeed in doing so very +comfortably; but even there, with some few exceptions, there is that +secret longing for one or two of the swells--even a junior secretary of +an embassy is looked upon as a desideratum. + +The Greeks keep very much to themselves; so do the Armenians. The Turks +are exceedingly fond of going into society, but their domestic +arrangements tend to prevent their entertaining. + +His Majesty the Sultan frequently invites European ladies to his dinner +parties, and those who have had that honour must have thoroughly enjoyed +the delicious music and the pleasant entertainments after dinner at the +Palace of Yildiz. I don't see why His Imperial Majesty's example is not +followed by some of his subjects; perhaps we may yet come to that +by-and-by. + +In what I have said about society in Pera I have not meant to be +personal or offensive in any way. My object has been to show up a rotten +system whereby everybody suffers. I have some remote hope that things +may change for the better, especially as one of the chief promoters of +the system has now left Constantinople. + +If I bring these pages to a somewhat abrupt conclusion, it is because I +have had the bad luck to get a chill out shooting, and have been +somewhat seriously ill. However, I have hope that there is 'life in the +old dog yet,' and that I may before long have some other adventures of a +similar description to add to these 'unvarnished sketches' of my life. + + + + +_EXTRACT FROM THE 'DAILY TELEGRAPH,' + +June 21, 1886._ + + +'There will be some slight and melancholy satisfaction to his sorrowing +family, and his many friends, in the knowledge of the fact that Hobart +Pasha, a short time before his death, had prepared for publication a +memoir of his stirring life and adventures. The only fault, if fault +there be, in this record, may lie in the circumstance that its readers +may think it too brief. At all events, we shall be told what Hobart had +been about ever since the year 1836. It is certain that he never was +idle. Even before he had passed his examination for lieutenant, he had +distinguished himself while serving in the squadron told off to suppress +the slave trade in Brazilian waters: and in those days our naval +operations against the Portuguese traders in "blackbirds" involved +considerable peril to life and limb. + +'Eighteen years, however, elapsed before Captain Augustus Hobart was +able to shot his guns in view of the broadside of a European foe. He had +previously enjoyed two years' half-holiday at home; that is to say, he +had been appointed, as a reward for his services in South America, to a +lieutenancy on board the Royal yacht, the Victoria and Albert, then +commanded by the late Adolphus Fitz-Clarence. But in the historically +momentous year 1854 there was serious business to be done by +Lieutenant--now Commander--Hobart. A diplomatic squabble between France +and Russia about the Holy Places in Palestine developed into an angry +quarrel between the Emperor Nicholas, France, and England. We went to +war with Russia. A magnificent squadron of British first-rates was +despatched to the Black Sea with the avowed object of destroying the +Russian Fleet, which had characteristically annihilated the Turkish +Fleet in the harbour of Sinope. We did not do much in the Black Sea +beyond running the Tiger on shore, where her crew were captured by the +Muscovites. We bombarded Odessa perfunctorily, and precisely in that +portion of the city where our shot and shell could do the least harm. We +did not destroy the Russian Fleet, for the sufficing reason that the +Russian Commander-in-Chief sank all his three-deckers full fathom five +in the harbour of Sebastopol. + +'In the Baltic, however, there was a little more fighting to show for +the many millions sterling wrung from the British taxpayer. To the +coasts of Finland was sent a splendid Armada, commanded by one of the +bravest seamen that ever adorned the glorious muster-roll of the Royal +Navy of England, Admiral Sir Charles Napier. Under his orders was +Captain Augustus Hobart, in command of Her Majesty's ship Driver. "Lads, +sharpen your cutlasses!" thus began the memorable manifesto addressed by +the hero of St. Jean d'Acre to the gallant tars. The Baltic fleet was to +do wonders. The lads, with their cutlasses very well sharpened, went +aboard the Russian war-ships before Cronstadt, stormed the seven forts +which guard the entrance to that harbour, and sailed up the Neva even to +St. Petersburg itself. It is true that ere the war was over a spy +informed Lord Augustus Loftus, then Her Majesty's Ambassador at Berlin, +that a certain channel or waterway existed unguarded by any fort at all, +by which a British flotilla with muffled oars could have got quietly +into the Neva without taking the trouble to destroy the Russian fleet or +to blow the seven forts of Cronstadt into the air. The revelations of +the spy went for nothing; and, after the cutlasses of the lads in +blue-jackets had been sharpened to a razor-like degree of keenness, +those blades, for some occult reason, were not allowed to cut deep +enough; the only cutting--and running into the bargain--being done by +the Russian fleet, which, safely ensconced in the harbour of Cronstadt, +defied us from behind the walls of fortresses which we did not care to +bombard. Still, the Baltic fleet was not wholly idle. There was some +fighting and some advantage gained over the Russians at Helsingfors, at +Arbo, and notably at Bomarsund. In all these engagements Commander +Hobart distinguished himself--so brilliantly, indeed, as to be named +with high approval in official despatches. + +'Soldiers in peace, Bacon has remarked, are like chimneys in summer. +Hobart seemed resolved that the aphorism quoted by Francis of Verulam +should not be verified in the case of sailors. The fire of the Earl of +Buckinghamshire's son was always alight, and he became, during the great +Civil War in America the boldest of blockade-runners. When the +Confederacy collapsed Hobart, by this time a Post-Captain, received +overtures of employment from the Turkish Government, and in 1868 he was +appointed, as Admiral Slade had been before him, to a high command in +the Ottoman Navy. It was a curious illustration of the various turns of +fate here below to find in 1869 the Sultan, the Commander of the +Faithful, sending the Giaour Hobart Pasha, the erst Secesh +blockade-runner, to the island of Crete to put down blockade-running on +the part of the intensely patriotic but occasionally troublesome Greeks. +Hobart was entrusted with unlimited powers, and he accomplished his +mission with so much vigour and with so much skill as to insure the good +graces of the Porte, and he soon rose to be Inspector-General of the +Imperial Ottoman Navy. Although his name was necessarily erased from the +list of the Royal Navy when he definitely threw in his lot with the +Sultan on the breaking out of the Turko-Russian war, all English +admirers of pluck and daring were glad to learn at a comparatively +recent period that the Honourable Augustus Charles Hobart Hampden had +been reinstated by Royal command in his rank in the British Navy. + +'It was the good fortune of the distinguished maritime commander just +deceased, to win golden opinions from all sorts of peoples, and his name +and prowess will be as cordially remembered in his native land, and in +the Southern States of America, as on the shores of the Bosphorus and +the Golden Horn. + +'A thorough Englishman at heart, he was none the less a fervent +philo-Turk in politics and convictions, and latterly devoted his talents +and his life to the defence of the integrity of the Ottoman Empire. As +ready with his pen as with his sword, he was a clear, trenchant, +vigorous writer, and could talk on paper as fluently and as cogently +about ironclads and torpedoes as about the wrongs of the natives of +Lazistan, the necessity of upholding the integrity of the Turkish +Empire, and of circumventing the dark and crooked wiles of Russian +diplomacy. Altogether Augustus Charles Hobart was a remarkable +man--bluff, bold, dashing, and somewhat dogged. There was in his +composition something of the mediæval "condottiere," and a good deal +more of that Dugald Dalgetty whom Scott drew. Gustavus Adolphus would +have made much of Hobart; the great Czarina, Catherine II., would have +appointed him Commander-in-Chief of her fleet, and covered him with +honours, even as she did her Scotch Admiral Gleig, and that other yet +more famous sea-dog, king of corsairs, Paul Jones. It would be unjust to +sneer at Hobart as a mercenary. His was no more a hired sword than were +the blades of Schomberg and Berwick, of Maurice de Saxe and Eugene of +Savoy. When there was fighting to be done Hobart liked to be in it--that +is all. Of the fearless, dashing, adventurous Englishman, ready to go +anywhere and do anything, Hobart was a brilliantly representative type. +Originally endowed with a most vigorous physique, his constitution +became sapped at last by long years of hardship and fatigue incident to +the vicissitudes of a daring, adventurous career. He left Constantinople +on leave of absence some months ago to recruit his shattered health, and +spent several weeks at the Riviera. But it would seem that he +experienced little relief from the delicious climate of the South of +France, and it was on his homeward journey to Constantinople that this +brave and upright British worthy breathed his last. The immediate cause +of his death was, it is stated, an affection of the heart, a term +covering a vast extent of unexplored ground. It would be nearer the +truth to say that the frame of Augustus Charles Hobart was literally +worn out by travel and exposure and hard work of every kind which had +been his lot, with but brief intervals of repose, ever since the day, in +the year 1836, when as a boy of thirteen he joined the Navy as a +midshipman.' + + * * * * * + +It will be gratifying to Englishmen to know that their distinguished +countryman received at his burial all the honours due to his high +station and noble qualities. Such a concourse of people of all ranks and +nations had never been seen at any public ceremony on the Bosphorus as +that which, on July 24, accompanied the remains of Hobart Pasha to their +last resting place in the English cemetery at Scutari, not far from the +spot where a tall granite obelisk records the brave deeds and glorious +death of those heroes who perished in the Crimean War. + +[Footnote 1: It must be understood that both men and boats were +disguised so as to resemble the ordinary fishing coasters about those +parts.] + + + +PRINTED BY + +SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE + +LONDON + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Sketches From My Life, by Hobart Pasha + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES FROM MY LIFE *** + +***** This file should be named 16296-0.txt or 16296-0.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/6/2/9/16296/ + +Produced by Steven Gibbs, Janet Blenkinship and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +https://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +https://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at https://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit https://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including including checks, online payments and credit card +donations. To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/16296-0.zip b/16296-0.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..26c0d81 --- /dev/null +++ b/16296-0.zip diff --git a/16296-8.txt b/16296-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..cdc7c68 --- /dev/null +++ b/16296-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,6300 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Sketches From My Life, by Hobart Pasha + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Sketches From My Life + By The Late Admiral Hobart Pasha + +Author: Hobart Pasha + +Release Date: July 15, 2005 [EBook #16296] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES FROM MY LIFE *** + + + + +Produced by Steven Gibbs, Janet Blenkinship and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + +{~--- UTF-8 BOM ---~} + + +SKETCHES + +FROM + +MY LIFE + + +BY THE LATE + +ADMIRAL HOBART PASHA + + + +_WITH A PORTRAIT_ + + + +THIRD EDITION + + +LONDON +LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. +1887 + +_All rights reserved_ + +PRINTED BY +SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE +LONDON + + + + +PREFACE. + + +These pages were the last ever written by the brave and true-hearted +sailor of whose life they are a simple record. + +A few months before his death, some of his friends made the fortunate +suggestion that he should put on paper a detailed account of his +sporting adventures, and this idea gradually developed itself until the +work took the present form of an autobiography, written roughly, it is +true, and put together without much method, part of it being dictated at +the Riviera during the last days of the author's fatal illness. Such as +it is, however, we are convinced that the many devoted friends of +Hobart Pasha who now lament his death will be glad to recall in these +'Sketches' the adventures and sports which some of them shared with him, +and the genial disposition and manly qualities which endeared him to +them all. + + + + +CONTENTS + + +CHAPTER PAGE + +I. A ROUGH START IN LIFE 1 + +II. PERILS BY SEA AND LAND 14 + +III. A TRAGICAL AFFAIR 27 + +IV. RIO DE JANEIRO 36 + +V. SLAVER HUNTING 43 + +VI. SLAVER HUNTING (_continued_) 53 + +VII. LOVE AND MURDER 62 + +VIII. THE QUEEN'S YACHT 71 + +IX. IN THE BALTIC 78 + +X. BLOCKADE-RUNNING 87 + +XI. EXCITING ADVENTURES 103 + +XII. A VISIT TO CHARLESTON 120 + +XIII. NEVER CAUGHT! 133 + +XIV. LAST DAYS ON THE 'D----N' 147 + +CHAPTER PAGE + +XV. RICHMOND DURING THE SIEGE 159 + +XVI. THE LAND BLOCKADE 175 + +XVII. I ENTER THE TURKISH NAVY 186 + +XVIII. THE WAR WITH RUSSIA 201 + +XIX. THE TURKISH FLEET DURING THE WAR 217 + +XX. SPORT IN TURKEY 235 + +XXI. SPORT AND SOCIETY 253 + +EXTRACT FROM THE 'DAILY TELEGRAPH' 277 + +SKETCHES FROM MY LIFE. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +A ROUGH START IN LIFE. + + +To attempt to write and publish sketches of my somewhat eventful career +is an act that, I fear, entails the risk of making enemies of some with +whom I have come in contact. But I have arrived at that time of life +when, while respecting, as I do, public opinion, I have hardened +somewhat into indifference of censure. I will, however, endeavour to +write as far as lies in my power (while recording facts) 'in charity +with all men.' This can be done in most part by omitting the names of +ships in which and officers under whom I have served. + +I was born, as the novelists say, of respectable parents, at +Walton-on-the-Wold, in Leicestershire, on April 1, 1822. I will pass +over my early youth, which was, as might be expected, from the time of +my birth until I was ten years of age, without any event that could +prove interesting to those who are kind enough to peruse these pages. + +At the age of ten I was sent to a well-known school at Cheam, in Surrey, +the master of which, Dr. Mayo, has turned out some very distinguished +pupils, of whom I was not fated to be one; for, after a year or so of +futile attempt on my part to learn something, and give promise that I +might aspire to the woolsack or the premiership, I was pronounced +hopeless; and having declared myself anxious to emulate the deeds of +Nelson, and other celebrated sailors, it was decided that I should enter +the navy, and steps were taken to send me at once to sea. + +A young cousin of mine who had been advanced to the rank of captain, +more through the influence of his high connections than from any merit +of his own, condescended to give me a nomination in a ship which he had +just commissioned, and thus I was launched like a young bear, 'having +all his sorrows to come,' into Her Majesty's navy as a naval cadet. I +shall never forget the pride with which I donned my first uniform, +little thinking what I should have to go through. My only consolation +while recounting facts that will make many parents shudder at the +thought of what their children (for they are little more when they join +the service) were liable to suffer, is, that things are now totally +altered, and that under the present régime every officer, whatever his +rank, is treated like a gentleman, or he, or his friends, can know 'the +reason why.' + +I am writing of a period some fifteen or twenty years after Marryat had +astonished the world by his thrilling descriptions of a naval officer's +life and its accompanying troubles. At the time of which I write people +flattered themselves that the sufferings which 'Midshipman Easy' and +'The Naval Officer' underwent while serving the Crown were tales of the +past. I will show by what I am about very briefly to relate that such +was very far from being the case. + +Everything being prepared, and good-bye being said to my friends, who +seemed rather glad to be rid of me, I was allowed to travel from London +on the box of a carriage which contained the great man who had given me +the nomination (captains of men-of-war were very great men in those +days), and after a long weary journey we arrived at the port where +H.M.S.---- was lying ready for sea. On the same night of our arrival the +sailing orders came from the Admiralty; we were to go to sea the next +day, our destination being South America. + +Being a very insignificant individual, I was put into a waterman's boat +with my chest and bed, and was sent on board. On reporting myself, I was +told by the commanding officer not to bother him, but to go to my mess, +where I should be taken care of. On descending a ladder to the lower +deck, I looked about for the mess, or midshipmen's berth, as it was then +called. In one corner of this deck was a dirty little hole about ten +feet long and six feet wide, five feet high. It was lighted by two or +three dips, otherwise tallow candles, of the commonest +description--behold the mess! + +In this were seated six or seven officers and gentlemen, some +twenty-five to thirty years of age, called mates, meaning what are now +called sub-lieutenants. They were drinking rum and water and eating +mouldy biscuits; all were in their shirtsleeves, and really, considering +the circumstances, seemed to be enjoying themselves exceedingly. + +On my appearance it was evident that I was looked upon as an interloper, +for whom, small as I was, room must be found. I was received with a +chorus of exclamations, such as, 'What the deuce does the little fellow +want here?' 'Surely there are enough of us crammed into this beastly +little hole!' 'Oh, I suppose he is some protégé of the captain's,' &c. +&c. + +At last one, more kindly disposed than the rest, addressed me: 'Sorry +there is no more room in here, youngster;' and calling a dirty-looking +fellow, also in his shirtsleeves, said, 'Steward, give this young +gentleman some tea and bread and butter, and get him a hammock to sleep +in.' So I had to be contented to sit on a chest outside the midshipmen's +berth, eat my tea and bread and butter, and turn into a hammock for the +first time in my life, which means 'turned out'--the usual procedure +being to tumble out several times before getting accustomed to this, to +me, novel bedstead. However, once accustomed to the thing, it is easy +enough, and many indeed have been the comfortable nights I have slept in +a hammock, such a sleep as many an occupant of a luxurious four-poster +might envy. At early dawn a noise all around me disturbed my slumbers: +this was caused by all hands--officers and men--being called up to +receive the captain, who was coming alongside to assume his command by +reading his official appointment. + +I shall never forget his first words. He was a handsome young man, with +fine features, darkened, however, by a deep scowl. As he stepped over +the side he greeted us by saying to the first lieutenant in a loud +voice, 'Put all my boat's crew in irons for neglect of duty.' It seems +that one of them kept him waiting for a couple of minutes when he came +down to embark. After giving this order our captain honoured the +officers who received him with a haughty bow, read aloud his commission, +and retired to his cabin, having ordered the anchor to be weighed in two +hours. + +Accordingly at eight o'clock we stood out to sea, the weather being fine +and wind favourable. At eleven all hands were called to attend the +punishment of the captain's boat's crew. I cannot describe the horror +with which I witnessed six fine sailor-like looking fellows torn by the +frightful cat, for having kept this officer waiting a few minutes on the +pier. Nor will I dwell on this illegal sickening proceeding, as I do not +write to create a sensation, and, thank goodness! such things cannot be +done now. + +I had not much time for reflection, for my turn came next. I believe I +cried or got into somebody's way, or did something to vex the tyrant; +all I know is that I heard myself addressed as 'You young scoundrel,' +and ordered to go to the 'mast-head.' Go to the mast-head indeed! with +a freshening wind, under whose influence the ship was beginning to heel +over, and an increasing sea that made her jump about like an acrobat. I +had not got my sea legs, and this feat seemed an utter impossibility to +me. I looked with horror up aloft; then came over me the remembrance of +Marryat's story of the lad who refused to go to the mast-head, and who +was hoisted up by the signal halyards. While thinking of this, another +'Well, sir, why don't you obey orders?' started me into the lower +rigging, which I began with the greatest difficulty to climb, expecting +at every step to go headlong overboard. + +A good-natured sailor, seeing the fix I was in, gave me a helping hand, +and up I crawled as far as the maintop. This, I must explain to my +non-nautical reader, is not the mast-head, but a comparatively +comfortable half-way resting-place, from whence one can look about +feeling somewhat secure. + +On looking down to the deck my heart bled to see the poor sailor who had +helped me undergoing punishment for his kind act. I heard myself at the +same time ordered 'to go higher,' and a little higher I did go. Then I +stopped, frightened to death, and almost senseless; terror, however, +seemed to give me presence of mind to cling on, and there I remained +till some hours afterwards; then I was called down. On reaching the deck +I fainted, and knew no more till I awoke after some time in my hammock. + +Now, I ask anyone, even a martinet at heart, whether such treatment of a +boy, not thirteen years of age, putting his life into the greatest +danger, taking this first step towards breaking his spirit, and in all +probability making him, as most likely had been done to the poor men I +had seen flogged that morning, into a hardened mutinous savage, was not +disgraceful? + +Moreover, it was as close akin to murder as it could be, for I don't +know how it was I didn't fall overboard, and then nothing could have +saved my life. However, as I didn't fall, I was not drowned, and the +effect on me was curious enough. For all I had seen and suffered on that +the opening day of my sea-life made me think for the first time--and I +have never ceased thinking (half a century has passed since then)--how +to oppose tyranny in every shape. Indeed, I have always done so to such +an extent as to have been frequently called by my superiors 'a +troublesome character,' 'a sea lawyer,' &c. + +Perhaps in this way I have been able to effect something, however +small, towards the entire change that has taken place in the treatment +of those holding subordinate positions in the navy--and that something +has had its use, for the tyrant's hand is by force stayed now, 'for once +and for all.' + +With this little I am satisfied. + +Now let us briefly look into the question, 'Why are men tyrants when +they have it in _their power to be so_?' + +Unfortunately, as a rule, it appears to come natural to them! What +caused the Indian Mutiny? Let Indian officers and those employed in the +Indian civil service answer that question. + +However, I have only to do with naval officers. My experience tells me +that a man clothed with brief but supreme authority, such as the command +of a man-of-war, in those days when for months and months he was away +from all control of his superiors and out of reach of public censure, is +more frequently apt to listen to the promptings of the devil, which more +or less attack every man, especially when he is alone. + +Away from the softening influence of society and the wholesome fear of +restraint, for a time at least the voice of his better angel is +silenced. Perhaps also the necessarily solitary position of a commander +of a man-of-war, his long, lonely hours, the utter change from the +jovial life he led previous to being afloat, to say nothing of his liver +getting occasionally out of order, may all tend to make him irritable +and despotic. + +I have seen a captain order his steward to be flogged, almost to death, +because his pea-soup was not hot. I have seen an officer from twenty to +twenty-five years of age made to stand between two guns with a sentry +over him for hours, because he had neglected to see and salute the +tyrant who had come on deck in the dark. And as a proof, though it seems +scarcely credible, of what such men can do when unchecked by fear of +consequences, I will cite the following:-- + +On one occasion the captain of whom I have been writing invited a friend +to breakfast with him, and there being, I suppose, a slight monotony in +the conversation, he asked his guest whether he would like, by way of +diversion, to see a man flogged. The amusement was accepted, and a man +_was_ flogged. + +It was about the time I write of that the tyranny practised on board Her +Majesty's ships was slowly but surely dawning upon the public, and a +general outcry against injustice began. + +This was shown in a very significant manner by the following fact:-- + +A post-captain of high rank and powerful connections dared, in +contradiction to naval law, to flog a midshipman. This young officer's +father, happening to be a somewhat influential man, made a stir about +the affair. The honourable captain was tried by court-martial and +severely reprimanded. + +However, I will cut short these perhaps uninteresting details, merely +stating that for three years I suffered most shameful treatment. My last +interview with my amiable cousin is worth relating. The ship was paid +off, and the captain, on going to the hotel at Portsmouth, sent for me +and offered me a seat on his carriage to London. Full of disgust and +horror at the very sight of him, I replied that I would rather 'crawl +home on my hands and knees than go in his carriage,' and so ended our +acquaintance, for I never saw him again. + +It may be asked how, like many others, I tided over all the ill-usage +and the many trials endured during three years. The fact is, I had +become during that period of ill-treatment so utterly hardened to it +that I seemed to feel quite indifferent and didn't care a rap. But +wasn't I glad to be free! + +I had learnt many a lesson of use to me in after life, the most +important of all being to sympathise with other people's miseries, and +to make allowance for the faults and shortcomings of humanity. + +On the other hand, experience is a severe taskmaster, and it taught me +to be somewhat insubordinate in my notions. I fear I must confess that +this spirit of insubordination has never left me. + +On my arrival at home my relations failed to see in me an ill-used lad +(I was only sixteen), and seemed inclined to disbelieve my yarns; but +this did not alter the facts, nor can I ever forget what I went through +during that 'reign of terror,' as it might well be called. + +People may wonder how was it in the days of Benbow and his successors no +complaints were made. To this I answer, first, that the men of those +days, knowing the utter hopelessness of complaining, preferred to 'grin +and bear;' secondly, that neither officers nor men were supposed to +possess such a thing as feeling, when they had once put their foot on +board a man-of-war. Then there were the almost interminable sea voyages +under sail, during which unspeakable tyrannies could be practised, +unheard of beyond the ship, and unpunished. It must be remembered that +there were no telegraphs, no newspaper correspondents, no questioning +public, so that the evil side of human nature (so often shown in the +very young in their cruelty to animals) had its swing, fearless of +retribution. + +Let us leave this painful subject, with the consoling thought that we +shall never see the like again. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +PERILS BY SEA AND LAND. + + +After enjoying a few weeks at home, I was appointed to the Naval Brigade +on service in Spain, acting with the English army, who were there by way +of assisting Queen Christina against Don Carlos. + +The army was a curious collection of regular troops and volunteer +soldiers, the latter what would be called 'Bashi-Bazouks.' The naval +part of the expedition consisted of 1,200 Royal Marines, and a brigade +of sailors under the orders of Lord John Hay. The army (barring the +regulars, who were few in numbers) was composed of about 15,000 of the +greatest rabble I ever saw, commanded by Sir De Lacy Evans. + +For fear any objection or misapprehension be applied to the word +'rabble,' I must at once state that these volunteers, though in +appearance so motley and undisciplined, fought splendidly, and in that +respect did all honour to their country and the cause they were +fighting for. + +Very soon after we had disembarked I received what is usually called my +'baptism of fire,' that is to say, I witnessed 'the first shot fired in +anger.' The Carlists were pressing hard on the Queen's forces, who were +returning towards the sea; it was of the greatest importance to hold +certain heights that defended San Sebastian and the important port of +Passagis. + +The gallant marines (as usual to the front) were protecting the hill on +which Lord John was standing; the fire was hot and furious. I candidly +admit I was in mortal fear, and when a shell dropped right in the middle +of us, and was, I thought, going to burst (as it did), I fell down on my +face. Lord John, who was close to me, and looking as cool as a cucumber, +gave me a severe kick, saying, 'Get up, you cowardly young rascal; are +you not ashamed of yourself?' + +I did get up and _was_ ashamed of myself. From that moment to this I +have never been hard upon those who flinched at the first fire they were +under. My pride helped me out of the difficulty, and I flinched no more. +For an hour or so the battle raged furiously. + +By degrees all fear left me; I felt only excitement and anger, and when +we (a lot I had to do with it!) drove the enemy back in the utmost +confusion, wasn't I proud! + +When all was over Lord John called me, and after apologising in the most +courteous manner for the kick, he gave me his hand (poor fellow! he had +already lost one arm while fighting for his country), and said: 'Don't +be discouraged, youngster; you are by no means the first who has shown +alarm on being for the first time under fire.' So I was happy. + +It is not my intention to give in detail the events that I witnessed +during that disastrous civil war in Spain; suffice it that after much +hard fighting the Carlists were driven back into their mountains so much +discouraged that they eventually renounced a hopeless cause; and at all +events for a long period order was restored in Spain. + +After serving under Lord John Hay for six or seven months, I was +appointed to another ship, which was ordered to my old station, South +America. + +The captain of my new ship was in every sense a gentleman, and although +a strict disciplinarian, was just and kind-hearted. From the captain +downwards every officer was the same in thought and deed, so we were all +as happy as sand-boys. It was then that I began to realise a fact of +which before I had only a notion--namely, that discipline can be +maintained without undue severity, to say nothing of cruelty, and that +service in the navy could be made a pleasure as well as a duty to one's +country. + +After visiting Rio de Janeiro, we were sent to the River Plate; there we +remained nearly a year, during which time several adventures which I +will relate occurred, both concerning my duties and my amusements. + +I must tell my readers that from earliest boyhood I had a passionate +love for shooting; and, through the kindness of my commanding officer +while at Monte Video, I was allowed constantly to indulge in sport. + +On one occasion my captain, who was a keen sportsman, took me with him +out shooting. We had a famous day's sport, filled our game bags with +partridges, ducks, and snipe, and were returning home on horseback when +a solitary horseman, a nasty-looking fellow, armed to the teeth, rode up +to us. As I knew a little Spanish we began to talk about shooting, &c. +&c.; then he asked me to shoot a bird for him (the reason why he did +this will be seen immediately). I didn't like the cut of his jib, so +rather snubbed him. However, he continued to ride on with us, to within +half a mile of where our boat was waiting to take us on board. I must +explain our relative positions as we rode along. The captain was on my +left, I next to him, and the man was on my right, riding very near to +me. All of a sudden he exclaimed in Spanish, 'Now is the time or never,' +threw his right leg over the pommel of his saddle, slipped on to the +ground, drew his knife, dashed at me, and after snatching my gun from my +hand, stuck his knife (as he thought) into me. Then he rushed towards +the captain, pulling the trigger of my gun, and pointing straight at the +latter's head; the gun was not loaded, having only the old percussion +caps on. (Now I saw why he wanted me to fire, so that he might know +whether my gun was loaded; but the old caps evidently deceived him.) + +All this was the work of a very few seconds. Now what was my chief +doing? Seeing a row going on, he was dismounting; in fact, was half-way +off his horse, only one foot in the stirrup, when the man made the rush +at him. Finding me stuck to my saddle (for the ruffian's knife had gone +through my coat and pinned me), and the fellow snapping my gun, which +was pointed at him, he as coolly as possible put his gun over his +horse's shoulder and shot the would-be murderer dead on the spot. Then +turning to me he said quite calmly, 'I call you to witness that that +man intended to murder me.' How differently all would have ended had my +gun been loaded! The villain would have shot my chief, taken both guns, +and galloped off, leaving me ignominiously stuck to my saddle. + +The audacity of this one man attacking us two armed sportsmen showed the +immense confidence these prairie people feel in themselves, especially +in their superior horsemanship. However, the fellow caught a Tartar on +this occasion. + +As for me, the knife had gone, as I said, through my loose shooting +jacket just below the waist, through the upper part of my trousers, and +so into the saddle, without even touching my skin. I have kept the knife +in memory of my lucky escape. + +While laying at Monte Video there was on each side of us a French +man-of-war, the officers of which were very amiably inclined, and many +were the dinners and parties exchanged between us. + +In those days the interchange of our respective languages was very +limited on both sides, so much so, that our frantic efforts to +understand each other were a constant source of amusement. A French +midshipman and myself, however, considered ourselves equal to the +occasion, and professed linguists; so on the principle that in the 'land +of the blind the one-eyed man is king,' we were the swells of the +festivities. + +I remember on one occasion, when the birthday of Louis Philippe was to +be celebrated, my French midshipman friend came on board officially and +said, 'Sir, the first of the month is the feast of the King; you must +fire the gun.' 'All right,' said we. Accordingly, we loaded our guns in +the morning, preparatory to saluting at noon. It was raining heavily all +the forenoon, so we had not removed what is called the tompions (to my +unprofessional reader I may say that the tompion is a very large piece +of wood made to fit into the muzzle, for the purpose of preventing wet +from penetrating). To this tompion is, or used to be, attached a large +piece of wadding, what for I never rightly understood. + +Now it seems that those whose duty it was to attend to it had neglected +to take these things out of the guns. + +On the first gun being fired from the French ship we began our salute. +The French ships were close alongside of us, one on either side. The +gunner who fires stands with the hand-glass to mark the time between +each discharge. On this occasion he began his orders thus: 'Fire, port;' +then suddenly recollecting that the tompions were not removed he added, +'Tompions are in, sir.' No one moved. The gunner could not leave his +work of marking time. Again he gave the order, 'Fire, starboard,' +repeating, 'Tompions are in, sir,' and so on till half the broadside had +been fired before the tompions had been taken out. It is difficult to +describe the consternation on board the French vessels, whose decks were +crowded with strangers (French merchants, &c.), invited from the shore +to do honour to their King's fête. These horrid tompions and their +adjuncts went flying on to their decks, from which every one scampered +in confusion. It was lucky our guns did not burst. + +This was a most awkward dilemma for all of us. I was sent on board to +apologise. The French captain, with the courtesy of his nation, took the +mishap most good-humouredly, begging me to return the tompions to my +captain, as they had no occasion for them. So no bad feeling was +created, though shortly after this contretemps an affair of so serious a +nature took place, that a certain coldness crept in between ourselves +and our ci-devant friends. + +It seems that there had been of late several desertions from the French +vessels lying at Monte Video, great inducements of very high wages being +offered by the revolutionary party in Buenos Ayres for men to serve +them. The French commander therefore determined to search all vessels +leaving Monte Video for other ports in the River Plate--a somewhat +arbitrary proceeding, and one certain to lead to misunderstanding sooner +or later. + +On the occasion I refer to, a vessel which, though not under the English +flag, had in some way or other obtained English protection, was leaving +the port; so we sent an officer and a party of armed men to prevent her +being interfered with. I was of the party, which was commanded by our +second lieutenant. Our doing this gave great offence to the French +commander, who shortly after we had gone on board also sent a party of +armed men, with positive orders to search the vessel at all risks. On +our part we were ordered not to allow the vessel to be searched or +interfered with. The French officer, a fine young fellow, came on board +with his men and repeated his orders to Lieutenant C----. The vessel, I +may mention, was a schooner of perhaps a couple of hundred tons, about +130 feet long. We had taken possession of the after-part of the deck, +the French crew established themselves on the fore-part. + +Never was there a more awkward position. The men on both sides loaded +and cocked their muskets. The English and French officers stood close to +one another. The former said, 'Sir, you have no business here, this +vessel is under English protection. I give you five minutes to leave or +take the consequences.' The other replied, 'Sir, I am ordered to search +the vessel, and search her I will.' They both seemed to, and I am sure +did, mean business; for myself, I got close to my lieutenant and cocked +a pistol, intending to shoot the French officer at the least show of +fighting. Nevertheless, I thought it a shockingly cruel and inhuman +thing to begin a cold-blooded fight under such circumstances. + +However, to obey orders is the duty of every man. Lieutenant C---- +looked at his watch; two minutes to spare. The marines were ordered to +prepare, and I thought at the end of the two minutes the deck of the +little vessel would have been steeped in blood. Just then, in the +distance, there appeared a boat pulling towards us at full speed; it +seems that wiser counsels had prevailed between the captains of the two +ships: the French were told to withdraw and leave the vessel in our +hands. + +I was much amused at the cordial way in which the two lieutenants shook +hands on receiving this order. There would indeed have been a fearful +story to tell had it not arrived in time; for I never saw determination +written so strongly on men's countenances as on those of both parties, +so nearly engaged in what must have proved a most bloody fight. + +After this incident cordial relations were never re-established between +ourselves and our French friends; fortunately, shortly afterwards we +sailed for Buenos Ayres. + +Buenos Ayres, that paradise of pretty women, good cheer, and all that is +nice to the sailor who is always ready for a lark! We at once went in +for enjoying ourselves to our heart's content; we began, every one of +us, by falling deeply in love before we had been there forty-eight +hours--I say every one, because such is a fact. + +My respectable captain, who had been for many years living as a +confirmed bachelor with his only relative, an old spinster sister, with +whom he chummed, and I fancy had hardly been known to speak to another +woman, was suddenly perceived walking about the street with a large +bouquet in his hand, his hair well oiled, his coat (generally so loose +and comfortable-looking) buttoned tight to show off his figure; and then +he took to sporting beautiful kid gloves, and even to dancing. He could +not be persuaded to go on board at any cost, while he had never left his +ship before, except for an occasional day's shooting. In short, he had +fallen hopelessly in love with a buxom Spanish lady with lustrous eyes +as black as her hair, the widow of a murdered governor of the town. + +Our first and second lieutenants followed suit; both were furiously in +love; and, as I said, every one, even a married man, one of my +messmates, fell down and worshipped the lovely (and lovely they were, +and no mistake) Spanish girls of Buenos Ayres, whose type of beauty is +that which only the blue blood of Spain can boast of. Now, reader, don't +be shocked, I fell in love myself, and my love affair proved of a more +serious nature, at least in its results, than that of the others, +because, while the daughter (she was sixteen, and I seventeen) responded +to my affection, her mother, a handsome woman of forty, chose to fall in +love with me herself. + +This was rather a disagreeable predicament, for I didn't, of course, +return the mother's affection a bit, while I was certainly dreadfully +spoony on the daughter. + +To make a long story short, the girl and I, like two fools as we were, +decided to run away together, and run away we did. I should have been +married if the mother hadn't run after us. She didn't object to our +being married, but, in the meantime, she remained with us, and she +managed to make the country home we had escaped to, with the intention +of settling down there, so unbearable, that, luckily for me as regards +my future, I contrived to get away, and went as fast as I could on board +my ship for refuge, never landing again during our stay at Buenos Ayres. + +Fortunately, shortly afterwards we were ordered away, and so ended my +first love affair. + +I shall never forget the melancholy, woebegone faces of my captain and +brother officers on our re-assembling on board. It was really most +ludicrous. However, a sea voyage which included several sharp gales of +wind soon erased all sad memories; things gradually 'brightened,' and +ere many weeks had passed all on board H.M.S.---- resumed their usual +appearance. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +A TRAGICAL AFFAIR. + + +Whilst I was at Buenos Ayres I had the good luck to visit the +independent province of Paraguay, which my readers must have heard +spoken of, sometimes with admiration, sometimes with sneers, as the +hot-bed of Jesuitism. Those who sneer say that the Jesuit fathers who +left Spain under Martin Garcia formed this colony in the River Plate +entirely in accordance with the principles their egotism and love of +power dictated. It may be so; it is possible that the Jesuits were wrong +in the conclusions they came to as regards the governing or guiding of +human nature; all I can say is, that the perfect order reigning +throughout the colony they had formed, the respect for the clergy, the +cheerful obedience to laws, the industry and peaceful happiness one saw +at every step, made an impression on me I have never forgotten; and when +I compare it with the discord, the crime, and the hatred of all +authority which is now prevailing, alas! in most civilised countries, I +look back to what I saw in Paraguay with a sigh of regret that such +things are of the past. It was beautiful to see the respect paid to the +Church (the acknowledged ruler of the place), the cleanliness and +comfort of the farms and villages, the good-will and order that +prevailed amongst the natives. It was most interesting to visit the +schools, where only so much learning was introduced as was considered +necessary for the minds of the industrious population, without rendering +them troublesome to the colony or to themselves. Though the inhabitants +were mostly of the fiery and ungovernable Spanish race, who had mixed +with the wild aborigines, it is remarkable that they remained quiet and +submissive. + +To prevent pernicious influences reaching this 'happy valley,' the +strictest regulations were maintained as regards strangers visiting the +colony. + +The River Plate, which, coming down from the Andes through hundreds of +miles of rich country, flows through Paraguay, was unavailable to +commerce owing to this law of exclusiveness, which prevented even the +water which washed the shores being utilised. However, about the time I +speak of the English government had determined, in the general +interests of trade, to oppose this monopoly, and to open a way of +communication up the river by force if necessary. The Paraguayans +refused to accept the propositions made by the English, and prepared to +fight for their so-called rights. They threw a formidable barrier across +the stream, and made a most gallant resistance. It was on this occasion +that Captain (now Admiral) H---- performed the courageous action which +covered him with renown for the rest of his life. The enemy had, amongst +other defences, placed a heavy iron chain across the river. This chain +it was absolutely necessary to remove, and the gallant officer I refer +to, who commanded the attack squadron, set a splendid example to us all +by dashing forward and cutting with a cold chisel the links of this +chain. The whole time he was thus at work he was exposed to a tremendous +fire, having two men killed and two wounded out of the six he took with +him. This deed, now almost forgotten by the public, can never be effaced +from the memory of those who saw it done. That the fight was a severe +one is evident from the fact that the vessel I belonged to had 107 shots +in her hull, and thirty-five out of seventy men killed and wounded. + +It was after we had thus forced ourselves into intercourse with the +Paraguayans that I saw an instance of want of tact which struck me as +most remarkable. Fighting being over, diplomacy stepped in, and a man of +somewhat high rank in that service was sent to make friendly overtures +to the authorities. Can it be believed (I do not say it as a sneer +against diplomacy, for this blunder was really _unique_), this big man +had scarcely finished the pipe of peace which he smoked with the +authorities, when he proposed to introduce vaccination and tracts among +the people? Badly as the poor fellows felt the licking they had +received, and much as they feared another should they give trouble to +the invaders, they so resented our representative's meddling that he +found it better to beat a hasty retreat, and to send a wiser man in his +stead. But their fate was sealed, and from the moment the stranger put +his foot into this interesting country dates its entire change. The +system that the Jesuits established was quickly done away with. Paraguay +is now a part of the Argentine Republic, it is generally at war with +some of its neighbours, and its inhabitants are poor, disorderly, and +wretched. + +As I shall have, while telling the story of my life, to relate more +serious events, I will, after recounting one more yarn, not weary my +readers with the little uninteresting details of my youthful adventures, +but pass over the next three years or so, at which time, after having +returned to England, I was appointed to another ship going to South +America, for the purpose of putting down the slave trade in the Brazils. +The adventure to which I have referred was one that made a deep +impression on my mind, as being of a most tragic nature. + +While at Rio de Janeiro we were in the habit of visiting among the +people, attending dances, &c. I always remarked that the pretty young +Brazilian girls liked dancing with the fresh young English sailors +better than with their mud-coloured companions of the male sex, the +inhabitants of the country. + +At the time I write of the English were not liked by the Brazilians, +partly on account of the raid we were then making on the slave trade, +partly through the usual jealousy always felt by the ignorant towards +the enlightened. So with the men we were seldom or ever on good terms, +but with the girls somehow sailors always contrive to be friends. + +It was at one of the dances I have spoken of that the scene I am about +to describe took place. + +Among the pretty girls who attended the ball was one prettier perhaps +than any of her companions; indeed, she was called the belle of Rio +Janeiro. I will not attempt to portray her, but I must own she was far +too bewitching for the peace of heart of her many admirers, and +unhappily she was an unmitigated flirt in every sense of the word. + +Now there was a young Brazilian nobleman who had, as he thought, been +making very successful progress towards winning this girl's heart--if +she had a heart. All was progressing smoothly enough till these hapless +English sailors arrived. + +Then, perhaps with the object of making her lover jealous (a very common +though dangerous game), Mademoiselle pretended (for I presume it was +pretence) to be immensely smitten with one of them--a handsome young +midshipman whom we will call A. + +At the ball where the incident I refer to occurred, she danced once with +him, twice with him, and was about to start with him a third time, when, +to the astonishment of the lookers-on, of whom I formed part, the young +Brazilian rushed into the middle of the room where the couple were +standing, walked close up to them and spat in A.'s face. + +Before the aggressor could look round him, he found himself sprawling on +the floor, knocked by the angry Briton into what is commonly called 'a +cocked hat.' Not a word was spoken. A. wiped his face, led his partner +to a seat and came straight to me, putting his arm in mine and leading +me into the verandah. The Brazilian picked himself up and came also +into the verandah; in less time than I can write it a hostile meeting +was settled, pistols were procured, and we (I say we, because I had +undertaken to act as A.'s friend, and the Brazilian had also engaged a +friend) sauntered into the garden as if for a stroll. + +It was a most lovely moonlight night, such a night as can only be seen +in the tropics. + +I should mention that the chief actors in the coming conflict had +neither of them seen twenty years, and we their seconds were +considerably under that age. The aggressor, whose jealous fury had +driven him almost to madness when he committed an outrageous affront on +a stranger, was a tall, handsome, dark-complexioned young fellow. A. was +also very good-looking, with a baby complexion, blue eyes and light +curly hair, a very type of the Saxon race. + +They both looked determined and calm. After proceeding a short distance +we found a convenient spot in a lovely glade. It was almost as clear as +day, so bright was the moonlight. The distance was measured (fourteen +paces), the pistols carefully loaded. Before handing them to the +principals we made an effort at arrangement, an effort too +contemptuously received to be insisted upon, and we saw that any +attempt at reconciliation would be of no avail without the exchange of +shots; so, handing to each his weapon, we retired a short distance to +give the signal for firing, which was to be done by my dropping a +pocket-handkerchief. It was an anxious moment even for us, who were only +lookers-on. I gave the words, one, two, three, and dropped the +handkerchief. + +The pistols went off simultaneously. To my horror I saw the young +Brazilian spin round and drop to the ground, his face downwards; we +rushed up to him and found that the bullet from A.'s pistol had gone +through his brain. He was stone dead. + +Then the solemnity of the whole affair dawned on us, but there was no +time for thought. Something must be done at once, for revenge quick and +fearful was sure to follow such a deed like lightning. + +We determined to hurry A. off to his ship, and I begged the young +Brazilian to go into the house and break the sad news. The poor fellow, +though fearfully cut up, behaved like a gentleman, walking slowly away +so as to give us time to escape. As we passed the scene of gaiety the +sounds of music and dancing were going on, just as when we left it. How +little the jovial throng dreamt of the tragedy that had just been +enacted within a few yards of them; of the young life cut down on its +threshold! + +We got on board all right, but such a terrible row was made about the +affair that the ship to which A. belonged had to go to sea the next day, +and did not appear again at Rio de Janeiro. + +I, though not belonging to that vessel, was not allowed to land for many +months. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +RIO DE JANEIRO. + + +One word about Rio de Janeiro. Rio, as it is generally called, is +perhaps one of the most lovely spots in the world. The beautiful natural +bay and harbour are unequalled throughout the whole universe. Still, +like the Bosphorus, the finest effect is made by Rio de Janeiro when +looked at from the water. In the days of which I write yellow fever was +unknown; now that fearful disease kills its thousands, aye, tens of +thousands, yearly. The climate, though hot at times, is very good; in +the summer the mornings are hot to a frying heat, but the sea breeze +comes in regularly as clockwork, and when it blows everything is cool +and nice. Life is indeed a lazy existence; there is no outdoor amusement +of any kind to be had in the neighbourhood. As to shooting, there are +only a few snipe to be found here and there, and while looking for these +you must beware of snakes and other venomous reptiles, which abound +both in the country and in town. I remember a terrible fright a large +picnic party, at which I assisted, was thrown into while lunching in the +garden of a villa, almost in the town of Rio, by a lady jumping up from +her seat with a deadly whip-snake hanging on her dress. I once myself +sat on an adder who put his fangs through the woollen stuff of my +inexpressibles and could not escape. The same thing happened with the +lady's dress; in that case also we caught the snake, as it could not +disentangle its fangs. + +In the country near Rio there are great snakes called the anaconda, a +sort of boa-constrictor on a large scale. Once, while walking in the +woods with some friends, we found a little Indian boy dead on the +ground, one of these big snakes lying within a foot or so of him, also +dead; the snake had a poisoned arrow in his brain, which evidently had +been shot at him by the poor little boy, whose blow-pipe was lying by +his side. The snake must have struck the boy before it died, as we found +a wound on the boy's neck. This reptile measured twenty-two feet in +length. + +By the way, a well-known author, Mrs. B----, tells a marvellous story +about these snakes. She says that they always go in pairs, have great +affection for each other, and are prepared on all occasions to resent +affronts offered to either of them. She narrates that a peasant once +killed a big anaconda, and that the other, or chum snake, followed the +man several miles to the house where he had taken the dead one, got in +by the window, and crushed the destroyer of his friend to death. I +expect that some salt is necessary to swallow this tale, but such is the +statement Mrs. B---- makes. + +The most lovely birds and butterflies are found near Rio, and the finest +collections in the world are made there. The white people are Portuguese +by origin--not a nice lot to my fancy, though the ladies are as usual +always nice, especially when young; they get old very soon through +eating sweets and not taking exercise. There is very little poverty +except among the free blacks, who are lazy and idle and somewhat +vicious. I always have believed that the black man is an inferior +animal--in fact, that the dark races are meant to be drawers of water +and hewers of wood. I do not deny that they have souls to be saved, but +I believe that their rôle in this world is to attend on the white man. +The black is, and for years has been, educated on perfect equality with +the white man, and has had every chance of improving himself--with what +result? You could almost count on your fingers the names of those who +have distinguished themselves in the battle of life. + +Sometimes, while cruising off the coast of Rio de Janeiro looking out +for slave vessels, we passed a very monotonous life. The long and +fearfully hot mornings before the sea breeze sets in, the still longer +and choking nights with the thermometer at 108°, were trying in the +extreme to those accustomed to the fresh air of northern climates; but +sailors have always something of the 'Mark Tapley' about them and are +generally jolly under all circumstances, and so it was with me. One day, +while longing for something to do, I discovered that the crew had been +ordered to paint the ship outside; as a pastime I put on old clothes and +joined the painting party. Planks were hung round the ship by ropes +being tied to each end of the plank; on these the men stood to do their +work. We had not been employed there very long when there was a cry from +the deck that the ship was surrounded by sharks. It seems that the +butcher had killed a sheep, whose entrails, having been thrown +overboard, attracted these fearful brutes round the ship in great +numbers. As may be imagined, this report created a real panic among the +painters, for I believe we all feared a shark more than an enemy armed +to the teeth. I at once made a hurried movement to get off my plank. As +I did so the rope at one end slipped off, and so threw the piece of +wood, to which I had to hang as on a rope, up and down the vessel's +side, bringing my feet to within a very few inches of the water. On +looking downwards I saw a great shark in the water, almost within +snapping distance of my legs. I can swear that my hair stood on end with +fear; though I held on like grim death, I felt myself going, yes, going, +little by little right into the beast's jaws. At that moment, only just +in time, a rope was thrown over my head from the deck above me, and I +was pulled from my fearfully perilous position, more dead than alive. +Now for revenge on the brutes who would have eaten me if they could! It +was a dead calm, the sharks were still swimming round the ship waiting +for their prey. We got a lot of hooks with chains attached to them, on +which we put baits of raw meat. I may as well mention a fact not +generally known, viz., that a shark must turn on his back before opening +his capacious mouth sufficiently to feed himself; when he turns he means +business, and woe to him who is within reach of the man-eater's jaws. On +this occasion what we offered them was merely a piece of meat, and most +ravenously did they rush, turn on their backs, and swallow it, only to +find that they were securely hooked, and could not bite through the +chains that were fast to the hooks--in fact, that it was all up with +them. Orders had been given by the commanding officer that the sharks +were not to be pulled on board, partly from the dangerous action of +their tails and jaws even when half dead, partly on account of the +confusion they make while floundering about the decks; so we hauled them +close to the top of the water, fired a bullet into their brains and cut +them loose. We killed thirty that morning in this way, some of them +eight to ten feet long. + +The most horrid thing I know is to see, as I have done on more than one +occasion, a man taken by a shark. You hear a fearful scream as the poor +wretch is dragged down, and nothing remains to tell the dreadful tale +excepting that the water is deeply tinged with blood on the spot where +the unfortunate man disappeared. These ravenous man-eaters scent blood +from an enormous distance, and their prominent upper fin, which is +generally out of the water as they go along at a tremendous pace, may be +seen at a great distance, and they can swim at the rate of a mile a +minute. A shark somewhat reminds me of the torpedo of the present day, +and in my humble opinion is much more dangerous. + +Once we caught a large shark. On opening him we found in his inside a +watch and chain quite perfect. Could it have been that some poor wretch +had been swallowed and digested, and the watch only remained as being +indigestible? + +It is strange to see the contempt with which the black man treats a +shark, the more especially when he has to do with him in shallow water. +A negro takes a large knife and diving under the shark cuts its bowels +open. If the water is deep the shark can go lower down than the man and +so save himself, and if the nigger don't take care he will eat him; thus +the black man never goes into deep water if he can help it, for he is +always expecting a shark. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +SLAVER HUNTING. + + +Shortly after the duel at Rio I went to England, but to be again +immediately appointed to a vessel on the Brazilian station. + +It was at the time when philanthropists of Europe were crying aloud for +the abolition of the African slave trade, never taking for a moment into +consideration the fact that the state of the savage African black +population was infinitely bettered by their being conveyed out of the +misery and barbarism of their own country, introduced to civilization, +given opportunities of embracing religion, and taught that to kill and +eat each other was not to be considered as the principal pastime among +human beings. + +At the period I allude to (from 1841 to 1845) the slave trade was +carried out on a large scale between the coast of Africa and South +America; and a most lucrative trade it was, if the poor devils of +negroes could be safely conveyed alive from one coast to the other. I +say if, because the risk of capture was so great that the poor wretches, +men, women, and children, were packed like herrings in the holds of the +fast little sailing vessels employed, and to such a fearful extent was +this packing carried on that, even if the vessels were not captured, +more than half the number of blacks embarked died from suffocation or +disease before arriving at their destination, yet that half was +sufficient to pay handsomely those engaged in the trade. + +On this point I propose giving examples and proofs hereafter, merely +remarking, _en passant_, that had the negroes been brought over in +vessels that were not liable to be chased and captured, the owners of +such vessels would naturally, considering the great value of their +cargo, have taken precautions against overcrowding and disease. Now, let +us inquire as to the origin of these poor wretched Africans becoming +slaves, and of their being sold to the white man. It was, briefly +speaking, in this wise. On a war taking place between two tribes in +Africa, a thing of daily occurrence, naturally many prisoners were made +on both sides. Of these prisoners those who were not tender enough to be +made into ragoût were taken down to the sea-coast and sold to the +slave-dealers, who had wooden barracks established ready for their +reception. + +Into these barracks, men, women, and children, most of whom were kept in +irons to prevent escape, were bundled like cattle, there to await +embarkation on board the vessels that would convey them across the sea. + +Now, as the coast was closely watched on the African side, to prevent +the embarkation of slaves, as it was on the Brazilian side, to prevent +their being landed, the poor wretches were frequently waiting for weeks +on the seashore undergoing every species of torment. + +At last the vessel to carry off a portion of them arrived, when they +were rushed on board and thrown into the hold regardless of sex, like +bags of sand, and the slaver started on her voyage for the Brazils. +Perhaps while on her way she was chased by an English cruiser, in which +case, so it has often been known to happen, a part of the living cargo +would be thrown overboard, trusting that the horror of leaving human +beings to be drowned would compel the officers of the English cruiser to +slacken their speed while picking the poor wretches up, and thus give +the slaver a better chance of escape. (This I have seen done myself, +fortunately unavailingly.) + +I will now ask the reader to bring his thoughts back to the coast of +Brazil, where a good look-out was being kept for such vessels as I have +mentioned as leaving the African coast with live cargo on board bound +for the Brazilian waters. Rio de Janeiro, the capital of Brazil, was the +headquarters of the principal slave-owners. It was there that all +arrangements were made regarding the traffic in slaves, the despatch of +the vessels in which they were to be conveyed, the points on which they +were to land, &c., and it was at Rio that the slave-vessels made their +rendezvous before and after their voyages. It was there also that the +spies on whose information we acted were to be found, and double-faced +scoundrels they were, often giving information which caused the capture +of a small vessel with few slaves on board, while the larger vessel, +with twice the number, was landing her cargo unmolested. + +As for myself, I was at the time of life when enterprise was necessary +for my existence, and so keenly did I join in the slave-hunting mania +that I found it dangerous to land in the town of Rio for fear of +assassination. + +My captain, seeing how enthusiastic I was in the cause, which promised +prize-money if not renown, encouraged me by placing me in a position +that, as a humble midshipman, I was scarcely entitled to, gave me his +confidence, and thus made me still more zealous to do something, if only +to show my gratitude. + +Having picked up all the information possible as regarded the movements +of the slave vessels, we started on a cruise, our minds set particularly +on the capture of a celebrated craft called the 'Lightning,' a vessel +renowned for her great success as a slave ship, whose captain declared +(this made our mission still more exciting) that he would show fight, +especially if attacked by English men-of-war boats when away from the +protection of their ships. + +I must mention that it was the custom of the cruisers on the coast of +Brazil to send their boats on detached service, they (the boats) going +in one direction while the vessels they belonged to went in another, +only communicating every two or three days. Proud indeed for me was the +moment when, arriving near to the spot on the coast where the +'Lightning' was daily expected with her live cargo, I left my ship in +command of three boats, viz., a ten-oared cutter and two four-oared +whale boats. I had with me in all nineteen men, well armed and prepared, +as I imagined, for every emergency. The night we left our ship we +anchored late under the shelter of a small island, and all hands being +tired from a long row in a hot sun, I let my men go to sleep during the +short tropical darkness. As soon as the day was breaking all hands were +alert, and we saw with delight a beautiful rakish-looking brig, crammed +with slaves, close to the island behind which we had taken shelter, +steering for a creek on the mainland a short distance from us. I ought +to mention that the island in question was within four miles of this +creek. We immediately prepared for action, and while serving out to each +man his store of cartridges, I found to my horror that the percussion +tubes and caps for the boat's gun, the muskets and pistols, had been +left on board the ship. What was to be done? no use swearing at anybody. +However, we pulled boldly out from under the shelter of the island, +thinking to intimidate the slaver into heaving to. In this we were +grievously mistaken. + +The vessel with her men standing ready at their guns seemed to put on a +defiant air as she sailed majestically past us, and although we managed +with lucifer matches to fire the boat's gun once or twice, she treated +us with sublime contempt and went on her way into the creek, at the rate +of six or seven miles an hour. Though difficult to attack the vessel in +the day time without firearms, I determined if possible not to lose +altogether this splendid brig. I waited therefore till after sunset, +and then pulled silently into the creek with muffled oars. There was our +friend securely lashed to the rocks. We dashed on board with drawn +cutlasses, anticipating an obstinate resistance. We got possession of +the deck in no time, but on looking round for someone to fight with, saw +nothing but a small black boy who, having been roused up from a sort of +dog-kennel in which he had been sleeping, first looked astonished and +then burst out laughing, pointing as he did so to the shore. Yes, the +shore to which the slaver brig was lashed was the spot where seven +hundred slaves (or nearly that number, for we found three or four +half-dead negroes in the hold) and the crew had all gone, and left us +lamenting our bad luck. However, I took possession of the vessel as she +lay, and though threatened day and night by the natives, who kept up a +constant fire from the neighbouring heights and seemed preparing to +board us, maintained our hold upon the craft until the happy arrival of +my ship, which, with a few rounds of grape, soon cleared the +neighbourhood of our assailants. I may mention that, in the event of our +having been boarded, we had prepared a warm reception for our enemies in +the shape of buckets of boiling oil mixed with lime, which would have +been poured on their devoted heads while in the act of climbing up the +side. As they kept, however, at a respectful distance, our remedy was +not tried. The vessel, a splendid brig of 400 tons, was then pulled off +her rocky bed, and I was sent in charge of her to Rio de Janeiro. And +now comes the strangest part of my adventures on this occasion. + +On the early morning after I had parted company with my commanding +officer, before the dawn, I ran accidentally right into a schooner +loaded with slaves, also coming from Africa, bound to the same place as +had been the brig, my prize. + +Without the slightest hesitation, before the shock and surprise caused +by the collision had given time for reflection or resistance, I took +possession of this vessel, put the crew in irons, and hoisted English +colours. There were 460 Africans on board, and what a sight it was! + +The schooner had been eighty-five days at sea. They were short of water +and provisions; three distinct diseases--namely, small-pox, ophthalmia, +and diarrhoea in its worst form--had broken out while coming across among +the poor doomed wretches. + +On opening the hold we saw a mass of arms, legs, and bodies all crushed +together. Many of the bodies to whom these limbs belonged were dead or +dying. In fact, when we had made some sort of clearance among them we +found in that fearful hold eleven dead bodies lying among the living +freight. Water! water! was the cry. Many of them as soon as free jumped +into the sea, partly from the delirious state they were in, partly +because they had been told that, if taken by the English, they would be +tortured and eaten. The latter I fancy they were accustomed to, but the +former they had a wholesome dread of. + +Can Mrs. Beecher Stowe beat this? It is, I can assure my readers, a very +mild description of what I saw on board the first cargo of slaves I made +the acquaintance of, and by which I was so deeply impressed, that I have +ever since been sceptical of the benefits conferred upon the African +race by our blockade--at all events, of the means employed to abolish +slavery. + +The strangest thing amid this 'confusion of horrors' was that children +were constantly being born. In fact, just after I got on board, an +unfortunate creature was delivered of a child close to where I was +standing, and jumped into the sea, baby and all, immediately afterwards. +She was saved with much difficulty; the more so, as she seemed to +particularly object to being rescued from what nearly proved a watery +grave. + +After this unusual stroke of good luck, sending a prize crew on board +my new capture, and allowing the slaver's crew to escape in the +schooner's boat, as I considered these lawless ruffians an impediment to +my movements, I proceeded on my voyage, and arrived safely in Rio +harbour with my two prizes. + +There I handed my live cargo over to the English authorities, who had a +special large and roomy vessel lying in the harbour for the reception of +the now free niggers. + +It would be as well perhaps to state what became of the freed blacks. +First of all they were cleaned, clothed (after a fashion), and fed; then +they were sent to an English colony, such for example as Demerara, where +they had to serve seven years as apprentices (something, I must admit, +very like slavery), after which they were free for ever and all. I fear +they generally used their freedom in a way that made them a public +nuisance wherever they were. However, they were free, and that satisfied +the philanthropists. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +SLAVER HUNTING (_continued_). + + +Now to return to my 'experiences.' As proud as the young sportsman when +he has killed his first stag, I returned, keen as mustard, to my ship, +which I found still cruising near to where I had left her. Some secret +information that I had received while at Rio led me to ask my captain to +again send me away with a force similar to that which I had under me +before (with percussion caps this time), and allow me to station myself +some fifty miles further down the coast. My request was granted, and +away I went. This time, instead of taking shelter under an island, I +ensconced my little force behind a point of land which enabled me by +mounting on the rocks to sweep the horizon with a spy-glass, so that I +could discover any vessel approaching the land while she was yet at a +considerable distance. + +There happened to be a large coffee plantation in my immediate +neighbourhood, and I remarked that the inhabitants favoured us with the +darkest of scowls whenever we met them. This made me believe (and I +wasn't far out) that the slave-vessel I was looking out for was bringing +recruits to the already numerous slaves employed on the said plantation. +Two or three mornings after my arrival, I discovered a sail on the very +far horizon; a vessel evidently bound to the immediate neighbourhood I +had chosen as my look-out place. The winds were baffling and light, as +usual in the morning in these latitudes, where, however, there is always +a sea-breeze in the afternoon. So, being in no hurry, I sauntered about +the shore with my double-barrelled gun in my hand, occasionally taking a +look seaward. Suddenly I saw within a hundred yards of me a man leading +two enormous dogs in a leash. The dogs were of a breed well known among +slave-owners, as they were trained to run down runaway slaves. I believe +the land of their origin is Cuba, as they are called Cuba bloodhounds. + +Suspecting nothing I continued my lounge, turning my back on the man and +his dogs. A few minutes afterwards I was startled by a rushing sound +behind me. On turning quickly round I saw to my horror two huge dogs +galloping straight at me. Quick as lightning I stood on the defensive, +and when they with open mouths and bloodshot eyes were within five +yards, I pulled the trigger. The gun missed fire with the first barrel. +The second barrel luckily went off, scattering the brains of the nearest +dog, the whole charge having entered his mouth, and gone through the +palate into his brain. This occurrence seemed to check the advance of +the second brute, who, while hesitating for a moment before coming at +me, received a ball in his side from one of my sailors, who fortunately +had observed what was going on and had come to my rescue. Without +waiting an instant to see what had become of the man who had played me +this murderous trick, I called my men together, launched the boats, and +put out to sea. + +By this time the sea-breeze had set in, and I could see the vessel I had +been watching, though still a considerable distance from the shore, was +trimming her sails to the sea-breeze, and steering straight in for the +very spot where I had been concealed. Signal after signal was made to +her by her friends on the shore, in the shape of lighted fires (not much +avail in the daytime) and the hoisting of flags, &c., but she seemed +utterly to disregard the action of her friends. Satisfied, I imagine, +that she had all but finished her voyage, seeing no cruiser and +unsuspicious of boats, on she came.[1] + +We got almost alongside of her before the people on board seemed to see +us. When she did, evidently taken by surprise, she put her helm down, +and throwing all her sails aback, snapped some of her lighter spars, +thus throwing everything into confusion--confusion made worse by the +fact that, with the view of immediate landing, two hundred or three +hundred of the niggers had been freed from their confinement and were +crowded on the deck. Taking advantage of this state of things we made +our capture without a shot being fired. + +In fact everything was done, as sailors say, 'before you could look +round you,' the man at the helm replaced by one of my men, the crew +bundled down into the slave-hold to give them a taste of its horrors, +and the sails trimmed for seaward instead of towards the land. The +captain, who seemed a decent fellow, cried like a child. He said: 'If I +had seen you five minutes before you would never have taken me. Now I am +ruined.' I consoled him as well as I could and treated him well, as he +really seemed half a gentleman, if not entirely one. I found about six +hundred slaves, men and women and children, on board this vessel, who as +they had made a very rapid and prosperous voyage, were in a somewhat +better state than those on board the last capture. Still goodness knows +their state was disgusting enough. Ophthalmia had got a terrible hold of +the poor wretches. In many of the cases the patient was stone blind. I +caught this painful disease myself, and for several days couldn't see a +yard. + +Shortly after, having despatched our prize into Rio in charge of a +brother midshipman, we were joined by another man-of-war cruiser, which +had been sent to assist us in our work. As the officer in command of +this vessel was of senior rank to my commander, he naturally took upon +himself to organise another boat expedition, placing one of his own +officers in command. With this expedition I was allowed to go, taking +with me my old boats and their crews, with orders to place myself under +the direction of Lieutenant A.C., the officer chosen by the senior in +command. + +So we started with five boats provisioned and otherwise prepared for a +cruise of twenty days. The lieutenant in charge did not think it wise to +land, as a bad feeling towards us was known to exist among the +inhabitants, who were all more or less slave-dealers, or interested in +the success of the slave-vessels, so we had to live in our boats. Rather +hard lines, sleeping on the boat's thwarts, &c. Still we had that 'balm +of Gilead,' hope, to keep us alive, and our good spirits. Many a longing +eye did I cast to the shore, where, in spite of the bloodhounds, I +should like to have stretched my cramped limbs. Ten or twelve days +passed in dodging about, doing nothing but keeping a good look-out, and +we almost began to despair, when one fine morning we saw a large brig, +evidently a slaver, running in towards the shore with a fresh breeze. +Our boats were painted like fishing boats, and our men disguised as +fishermen, as usual; so, apparently occupied with our pretended +business, we gradually approached the slave-vessel. My orders were +strictly to follow the movements or action of my superior. Then I +witnessed a gallant act, such as I have not seen surpassed during forty +years of active service that I have gone through since that time. +Lieutenant A.C., who was in the leading boat, a large twelve-oared +cutter, edged pretty near to the advancing vessel, and when quite close +under her bows one man seemed to me to spring like a chamois on board. I +saw the boat from which the man jumped make an ineffectual attempt to +get alongside the vessel, that was going at the rate of six miles an +hour, and then drop astern. I heard a pistol shot, and suddenly the +vessel was thrown up in the wind with all her sails aback, thus entirely +stopping her way (sailors will understand this). Not knowing precisely +what had happened, we pulled like maniacs alongside of the slaver. To do +this was, now that the vessel's way was stopped, comparatively easy. We +dashed on board, and after a slight resistance on the part of the +slaver's crew, in which two or three more men, myself among the number, +were wounded, we took possession of the brig. There we found our +lieutenant standing calmly at the helm, which was a long wooden tiller. +He it was who had jumped on board alone, shot the man at the helm, put +the said helm down with his leg, while in his hand he held his other +pistol, with which he threatened to shoot any one who dared to touch +him. + +I fancy that his cool pluck had caused a panic among the undisciplined +crew, a panic that our rapid approach tended much to increase. What +astonished me was that nobody on board thought of shooting him before he +got to the helm, in which case we never could have got on board the +vessel, considering the speed she was going through the water. What he +did was a glorious piece of pluck, that in these days would have been +rewarded with the Victoria Cross as the least recompense they could have +given to so gallant an officer. Poor fellow! all the reward he got, +beyond the intense admiration of those who saw him, was a bad attack of +small-pox from the diseased _animals_ (there is no other name for +negroes in the state they were in) on board the slave-vessel, which +somewhat injured the face of one of the handsomest men I ever saw. He is +now an admiral, has done many gallant acts since then, but none could +beat what he did on that memorable morning. + +I have said that I was among those who were wounded on this occasion. +What my friend A.C. did so far outshone anything that I had +accomplished, that it is hardly worth while speaking of my share in the +fray. However, as I am writing sketches from my life, I will not omit to +describe the way in which I was wounded. We were, as I have said, making +a rush to assist our gallant leader, who was alone on board the slaver. +The reader will have seen that our business was boarding and fighting +our enemy hand to hand. As I was making a jump on board I saw the white +of the eye of a great black man turned on me; he brandished a huge axe, +which I had a sort of presentiment was intended for me. I sprang as it +were straight at my destiny, for as I grasped the gunnel down came the +axe, and I received the full edge of the beastly thing across the back +of my hand. I fell into the water, but was picked up by my sailors, and +managed to get on board again. Had it not been for a clever young +assistant surgeon, who bound up the wound in a most scientific manner, I +should probably have quite lost the use of my hand; the mark remains +across my knuckles to this day. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +LOVE AND MURDER. + + +I was once sent from Rio to Demerara, an English colony on the coast of +Brazil, with a cargo of blacks that we had freed. Then it was that I had +a good opportunity of studying the character of these people certainly +in their primitive state, and if ever men and women resembled wild +animals it was my swarthy charges. When I arrived at Demerara I handed +them over to their new masters, to whom they were apprenticed for seven +years, and from all I can understand they were, during their +apprenticeship, treated pretty much as slaves in every respect. + +During the time I visited Demerara (and I fancy it is very slightly +changed now) it was one of the vilest holes in creation. It is built on +a low sandy point of land at the entrance of a great river, and is +almost the hottest place on the earth. Mosquitos in thousands of +millions; nothing for the natives to do but to cultivate sugar-canes +and to perspire. There were two crack regiments quartered at Demerara, +who, having to withstand the dreadful monotony of doing nothing, took I +fear to living rather too well; the consequence was that many a fine +fellow had been carried off by yellow fever. For my part, I took a +rather high flight in the way of pastime by falling (as I imagined) +desperately in love with the governor's daughter. The governor, I must +tell my readers, was a very great swell, a general, a K.C.B., &c., and +his daughter was a mighty pretty girl, much run after by the garrison; +so it was thought great impertinence on my part, as a humble +sub-lieutenant, to presume to make love to the reigning, if not the +only, beauty in the place. + +However, audacity carried me on, and I soon became No. 1 in the young +lady's estimation. I used to ride with her, spent the evenings in the +balcony of Government House with her, sent her flowers every morning, +and so on, till at last people began to talk, and steps were taken by +her numerous admirers to stop my wild career. This was done in a +somewhat startling way (premeditated, as I found out afterwards). One +evening I was playing at whist, one of my opponents being a momentarily +discarded lover of my young lady; I thought he was looking very +distrait; however, things went off quietly enough for some time, till on +some trifling question arising concerning the rules of the game, the +young man suddenly and quite gratuitously insulted me most grossly, +ending his insolent conduct by throwing his cards in my face. This was +more than I could put up with, so I called him out, and the next morning +put a ball into his ankle, which prevented him dancing for a long time +to come. He, being the best dancer in the colony, was rather severely +punished; it seems that he had undertaken to bell the cat, hardly +expecting such unpleasant results. + +On returning home after the hostile meeting I found a much more +formidable adversary in the shape of the governor himself, who was +stamping furiously up and down the verandah of my apartment. He received +me with, 'What the d--- l do you mean, young sir, by making love to my +daughter? you are a mere boy.' (I was twenty and did not relish his +remark.) 'What means have you got?' + +After the old gentleman's steam had gone down a little I replied, +'Really, general, I hardly know how to answer you. Your daughter and I +are very good friends, the place is most detestably dull, there is +nothing to do, and if we amuse ourselves with a little love-making, +surely there can be no great harm.' This rejoinder of mine made things +worse; I thought the old boy would have had a fit. At last he said, 'The +mail steamer leaves for England to-morrow; you shall go home by her, I +order you to do so!' I replied that I should please myself, and that I +was not under his orders. The general went away uttering threats. After +he was gone I thought seriously over the matter. I calculated that my +income of 120_l._ a year would scarcely suffice to keep a wife, and I +decided to renounce my dream of love. I went to pay a farewell visit to +my young lady, but found that she was locked up, so away I went and soon +forgot all about it. Shortly afterwards I heard that the governor's +daughter married the man whose leg I had lamed for his impertinence to +me. + +My last adventure while employed in the suppression of the slave trade +is perhaps worth describing. + +By international law it was ruled that a vessel on her way to Africa, if +fitted out in a certain manner, whereby it was evident that she was +employed in the nefarious traffic of slavery, was liable to capture and +condemnation by the mixed tribunals, or in other words became the lawful +prize of her captors. + +While cruising off Pernambuco we boarded a Portuguese vessel bound to +Africa, so evidently fitted out for the purpose of slave trade that my +captain took possession of her, and sent me to convey her to the Cape +of Good Hope for adjudication. It was the usual thing to send the +captain of a vessel so captured as a prisoner on board his ship, so that +he might be interrogated at the trial. In this case the master and three +of his crew were sent. The prize crew consisted of myself and six men. +Now the captain was an exceedingly gentlemanlike man, a good sailor, and +a first-rate navigator. + +At first I treated him as a prisoner, but by degrees he insinuated +himself into my good graces to such an extent that after a while I +invited him to mess with me, in fact, made a friend of him, little +thinking of the serpent I was nourishing. + +For several days all went well. I was as unsuspicious as a child of foul +play. We lived together and worked our daily navigation together, played +at cards together, in fact were quite chums. The three men who were +supposed to be prisoners were allowed considerable liberty, and as they +had, as I found out afterwards, a private stock of grog stowed away +somewhere, which they occasionally produced and gave to my men, they +managed to be pretty free to do as they wished. For all that, I ordered +that the three prisoners should be confined below during the night. + +As the weather was very hot I always slept in a little place on deck +called a bunk, a thing more like a dog-kennel than aught else I can +compare it to, excepting that the hole for entrance and exit was +somewhat larger than that generally used for the canine species. + +I always slept with a pistol (revolvers were unknown in those days) +under my pillow. Luckily for me that I did so, as the result will show. + +I had remarked (this I thought of afterwards) that the prisoner captain +and some of his men had been whispering together a good deal lately; but +not being in the slightest degree suspicious I thought nothing of it. + +One evening I retired to my sleeping place as usual, after having passed +a pleasant chatty evening with my prisoner. I was settling myself to +sleep, in fact I think I was asleep as far as it would be called so, for +I had from habit the custom of sleeping with one eye open, when I saw or +_felt_ the flash of a knife over my head. The entrance to my couch was +very limited, so that my would-be murderer had some difficulty in +striking the fatal blow. Instinct at once showed me my danger. + +To draw my pistol from under my pillow was the work of a second; to fire +it into the body of the man who was trying to stab me, that of another. +A groan and a heavy fall on the deck told me what had happened, and +springing out of my sleeping berth I found my ci-devant friend the +captain lying on his face, dead as a door nail. In the meantime I heard +a row in the fore-part of the ship. On going forward I saw one of the +prisoners in the act of falling overboard, and another extended full +length on the deck, while my stalwart quarter-master was flourishing a +handspike with which he had knocked one of his assailants overboard and +floored the other. Now it will be asked what was the man at the wheel +doing? Hereby hangs a tale. He swore that he heard or saw nothing. +Considering this sufficient evidence of his guilt, I put him in irons. +Shortly afterwards he confessed the whole story. It seems that a +conspiracy had been planned among the prisoners to retake the ship--that +the man at the wheel had been bribed to let free two of the prisoners, +under promise of a large reward if the result had been the retaking of +the ship. + +The only provision he made was that he was to take no murderous action +against his countrymen. The man at the helm and the quarter-master being +the only men on deck, and I being gone to roost, all seemed easy enough, +but Providence willed it otherwise. + +I buried the captain in the sea without further ceremony; the man who +fell overboard I suppose was drowned (I did not try to pick him up); the +man knocked down was put in irons, and all went smoothly for the rest of +the voyage; but when I arrived at the Cape of Good Hope without the +captain, the lawyers who defended the ship wanted to make out that I had +murdered him, and I was very nearly sent to prison on the charge of +murder. + +In the above pages I have endeavoured to give some notion of what used +to go on in old times when there were no steam launches, and when, I may +be forgiven for saying it, sailors were in every sense of the word +sailors. + +I could recount many more adventures somewhat similar to those I have +described, but I do not wish to bore my readers or appear egotistical in +their eyes. The only comparison I would make in regard to our doings in +those days is with the work done by the blockading squadron during the +civil war in America; for if ever men required plucky endurance and +self-denial it was the poor fellows who had to keep, or endeavour to +keep, blockade-runners if not slavers from communicating with the stormy +shores of Florida and South Carolina. They are too modest now to tell us +what they went through. Perhaps forty years hence they will do as I am +doing, and recount some of their adventures, which I am convinced would +quite put into the shade anything I or my boat's crew ever did. + +I do not wish to be mistaken in my remarks about the black race. I will +not venture to give an opinion as to what Providence meant to be done +with those interesting creatures. I only assert, and this I do from my +own personal experience, that a black man is a happier and wiser man in +America than he is in his own wretched country, North and South. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +THE QUEEN'S YACHT. + + +I returned from the Cape to England. On arriving there I was appointed +to the Queen's yacht, as a reward for what their lordships at the +Admiralty were good enough to designate my active and zealous services +while employed in suppression of the slave trade. + +To be appointed to Her Majesty's yacht was in those days considered a +very great distinction. Even now the Queen invariably chooses officers +who have seen what is called 'service.' Such an appointment, apart from +the honour of being so near Her Majesty, always tends to rapid +promotion. + +The Queen at the time I write of was very fond of cruising in her yacht, +paying visits to foreign potentates, &c. Her Majesty had been then five +years married, with a young family springing up around her, and her +beloved husband the Prince Consort always with her, participating in +all her pleasures; so we, the officers of the Royal yacht, had a rare +time of it, were made a lot of wherever we went, and thought ourselves +very great men indeed. Amongst other trips, we conveyed the Royal family +up the Rhine, where Her Majesty visited the King of Prussia at +Stolzenfels. + +Afterwards we went to the Château d'Eu, where Her Majesty was received +by King Louis Philippe and the Reine Amélie. + +I shall never forget the condescending kindness of Her Majesty and +Prince Albert to all on board the Royal yacht. As to the Prince Consort, +he treated the officers more in the light of companions than +subordinates, always ready to join us in a cigar and its accompanying +friendly conversation. + +Apropos of smoking, I cannot refrain from mentioning a little incident +that happened on board the 'Victoria and Albert,' that I, for one, shall +never forget. Her Gracious Majesty never approved of smoking, and it was +only through the kind consideration of the Prince Consort that we were +allowed to indulge in an occasional cigar in the cow-house. The +cow-house was a little place fitted up for two pretty small Alderney +cows, kept specially for supplying milk and butter for the Royal table. + +Her Majesty was very fond of these animals and had the habit of +visiting them every day, and the young Princes used to be held up to +look in at the window, out of which there was room for the favoured cows +to stretch their heads. One evening we were smoking as usual when I +espied a pot of blue paint on the deck of the cow-house, with, as bad +luck would have it, a brush in the pot. I cannot say what induced me, +but I deliberately took the brush and painted the tips of the noses and +the horns of both animals a pretty light blue. Having done this I +thought no more of the matter. The next morning Her Majesty--well, I +think I had better say no more about it. I, the culprit, was denounced +and had to keep out of the way for a day or two. Then it was that the +good-natured Prince proved himself a friend, and got me out of my +scrape. + +I passed two of the happiest years of my life in the Queen's yacht, +after which I was promoted to the rank of lieutenant, and appointed to a +ship in the Mediterranean, where I passed for several years the usual +humdrum life of a naval officer during times of profound peace. + +However, while serving as a lieutenant in the Mediterranean, I had the +advantage of taking part in one of the most interesting political events +of the century, namely, the flight of Pius IX. from Rome. The ship I +was in was stationed at Civita Vecchia, the sea-port of Rome, partly in +order to protect British interests--that is, the persons and properties +of British subjects--partly with the object of taking that half-hearted +part in religious politics which has always been such a humiliating rôle +for England. + +We had an accredited agent, a nondescript sort of person, representing +England at the court of Pope Pius IX. This gentleman's duty was to watch +and report, but not to act. It was through him that England's idea of +the policy to be pursued by the Pope was conveyed. We did not, and we +did, want to interfere. The question of the balance of power of Italy as +an independent nation was too important to neglect; it was impossible to +separate altogether religion and politics. However, at the time I write +of things were rushing to a crisis. + +The Pope, who a short time previously had been considered the great +supporter of liberty, was now looked upon as its enemy. Garibaldi was, +in a mad sort of way, fighting in its cause--at least, he professed to +do so. He had marched with a band of howling volunteers to the gates of +Rome, and established himself there as its conqueror, virtually making +the Pope a prisoner in the Vatican. In the meantime France interfered +in the Pope's cause, and sent General Oudinot with a small army to +dislodge Garibaldi. England's doubtful diplomatic relations made it +necessary to choose every sort of means of communicating with the Pope, +and I had the honour on more than one occasion of being the messenger +chosen to communicate, not only with His Holiness, but between Garibaldi +and the French commander. On the first occasion I was sent to Rome with +despatches from Lord Palmerston to be delivered (so said my orders) into +the Pope's own hands. + +On my arrival at Rome I went straight to the Quirinal and asked to see +Cardinal Antonelli. When I informed him of my instructions, he said at +once, 'You may give your despatches to me; you cannot expect to see His +Holiness.' 'No, sir; to the Pope I will give my despatches, or take them +back again,' and from this decision no persuasions or threats would move +me. Finding me obstinate the Cardinal at last took me with him into a +room where the Pope was sitting. His Holiness seemed in a great state of +anxiety, but was most kind and condescending. He gave me his hand to +kiss, and congratulated me on having been so firm in obeying orders in +relation to my despatches. I afterwards found that these despatches +influenced very much the important step taken by Pio Nono a few days +afterwards. + +Subsequently I several times conveyed communications between General +Garibaldi and General Oudinot. The former had most pluckily taken +possession of an important position inside the walls of Rome, and it was +a hard piece of work to dislodge him. + +I used to gallop in between General Oudinot's camp and Garibaldi's +headquarters, having on my arm a red scarf for a sign that I was not a +belligerent. My scarf was not much use, however, as I was generally +fired at all the time that I was passing the space between the French +camp and Garibaldi's headquarters in Rome. + +I was amused by the audacity with which Garibaldi resisted the French +army. I fancy he wanted to delay matters so that the Pope should be +induced to take the ill-advised step of leaving Rome, and in this the +republican general succeeded. What went on in Rome, the way in which the +Pope escaped, &c., I am not able to relate. All I know is that one fine +morning a simple carriage arrived from Rome at Civita Vecchia, bringing +a portly individual enveloped in the large cloak of an English coachman, +and another man in ordinary apparel. They strolled down to the place of +embarkation, and went quietly on board, not (as was expected) the +English man-of-war, but a French vessel-of-war which was lying with her +steam up. + +This vessel then left the harbour, almost unnoticed, and it was not for +hours afterwards that we heard that His Holiness Pius IX. was the +humble-looking person who had embarked before our eyes, and thus got +away safely to Gaëta. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +IN THE BALTIC. + + +In 1854 the war (commonly called the Crimean war) broke out, and I was +appointed first lieutenant of H.M.S.---- for service in the Baltic. + +I shall never forget the excitement among us all when, after so many +years of inactivity, we were called upon to defend the honour of our +country. Unfortunately for old England the Baltic fleet was put under +the command of Sir C. N----, 'fighting old Charley' as he was called, +though it was not long before we discovered that there was not much +fight left in him. It might well be said by those generously inclined +towards him, in the words of the old song, that the + +'Bullets and the gout +Had so knocked his hull about, +That he'd never more be fit for sea.' + +A finer fleet never sailed or steamed from Spithead than that destined +for the Baltic in 1854. The signal from its commander, 'Lads, war is +declared! Sharpen your cutlasses and the day's your own,' sent a thrill +of joy through every breast. After following the melting ice up the +Baltic Sea to within almost reach of the guns of Cronstadt, we waited +till the ice had disappeared, and then went in as we thought for the +attack. + +The ship to which I belonged being a steamer, and drawing much less +water than the line-of-battle ships, led the way. A grander sight could +not be conceived than that of twenty splendid line-of-battle ships, +formed in two lines, steaming straight up to the frowning batteries of +Cronstadt. On our approaching the batteries a shot was fired, and fell +alongside the ship I was in, which, as I said, was leading for the +purpose of sounding, when, to our astonishment and disgust, the signal +was made from the flag-ship to the fleet 'Stop!' and immediately +afterwards to 'anchor.' + +It is not for me to say the reason 'why.' All that I can vouch for is +that, in the general opinion of competent judges, had we gone on we +could have taken or destroyed Cronstadt, instead of which--what was +done? They sent to England for special boats to be made ready for the +next summer, when the attack would be made on Cronstadt. + +We remained a few days at anchor off that place, when some half of the +fleet were detached to the Aland Islands, where an insignificant fort +called Bomarsund was to be attacked--not by the English and French +fleets, who were fit to do any mortal thing, but by an army fetched from +France. When the army came, the poor little fort attacked by the fleet +on the seaside, and on the shore by the soldiers, after firing a few +shots surrendered. During the attack I was appointed acting commander of +H.M.S.----, and was mentioned honourably in despatches. + +Many promotions were made for the taking of Bomarsund, but I fancy I had +as usual given my opinion too freely, as I was left out in the cold. I +shall never forget old Charley's answer to me when I applied for my +promotion, it was so worthy of him. He said, 'Don't ye come crying to +me, Sir; you are a lord's son: I'll have nothing to do wi' ye.' + +Immediately after the capture of Bomarsund, the admiral detached a small +squadron under Captain S---- to reconnoitre the Russian port of Abo. Of +that squadron the vessel of which I was commander formed one. We left +with sealed orders, which were not to be opened until we arrived at, or +near to, our destination. + +On sighting the enemy's port we perceived that every preparation was +being made to give us a warm reception. A council of war was held on +board the senior officer's ship, at which council the sealed orders were +opened, when to our disgust it was found within that we were ordered +'not to fight, merely to reconnoitre.' + +Sickening humiliation! There were the Russian gunboats inside the bar of +the harbour of Abo, firing at us with all their might. The forts on the +heights, such as they were, very insignificant temporary batteries of +field-pieces, had commenced to get the range of the ships; but as we +were not to fight, we took a sulky shot or two at the enemy and retired. + +To this day I cannot understand the policy that actuated this weak, +vacillating conduct on the part of our chief. But some idea may be given +of his fighting notions by the following occurrence, of which I was a +witness. + +One morning despatches arrived from England. A signal was made from the +flag-ship for commanding officers to repair on board that vessel. On our +arrival there, we were asked to sit down to breakfast. Our chief, who +was opening his letters, suddenly threw a despatch over the table to +S----, the admiral of the fleet, saying, 'What would ye do, mun, if ye +received a letter like this?' S----, after reading the letter said, 'If +I received a letter like that, I'd attack Revel or Sveaborg if I lost +half my fleet.' Our chief's answer I shall never forget. It was: 'I +haven't got nerve to do it, and I'm d----d well sure C---- hasn't.' +There are many living besides myself who can vouch for the accuracy of +this statement. + +I shall say no more of the doings of the English fleet in the Baltic +during that year. Suffice it, that if ever open mutiny was +displayed--not by the crews of the ships, but by many of the captains, +men who attained the highest rank in their profession--it was during the +cruise in the Baltic in 1854: and no wonder. + +Many gallant deeds were performed by single ships, but the fleet did +absolutely nothing, except help to capture Bomarsund. I returned to +England disgusted and disheartened. The next year the commander-in-chief +was changed; I was appointed to his ship, and we went again to the +Baltic, taking with us all the necessary appurtenances for bombarding +forts and attacking the enemy's coast. + +As soon as the melting of the ice permitted we arrived off Cronstadt, +and found that the Russians had not been asleep during our absence for +the winter months; for they had defended the approaches to that place +to such an extent, that an attack was considered (and on this occasion +there was no difference of opinion) most unadvisable. So we fell back on +Sveaborg, which place was bombarded by the combined fleets, I venture to +think most successfully, and I believe, had we had a force to land, we +could have taken possession of that large and important fortress. + +Our losses during the operation were small on board the squadron of +mortar-boats which I had the good luck to command--some fifty-eight men +_hors de combat_. + +In this service I received my promotion to the rank of commander, and +returned to England. + +Peace was made between Russia and England, previous to which, however, I +was appointed to a vessel in the Mediterranean which formed part of the +fleet off Sebastopol. Unfortunately, I arrived too late to see much +active service there. + +While serving as a commander in the Mediterranean, I was principally +under the command of Sir Wm. M----, a man whose reputation as being the +smartest officer in the navy, I must venture to say, I think was greatly +exaggerated, though he was doubtless what is called a 'smart officer.' + +His idea was to rule with a rod of iron, and never to encourage anyone +by praising zealous and active service. He used to say, 'I am here to +find fault with, not to praise, officers under my command.' So many a +fine fellow's zeal was damped by knowing that no encouragement would +follow in the way of appreciation from his chief, however much he might +have merited it. + +I cannot refrain from recounting a very amusing incident that occurred +in connection with my command of H.M.S. _F---- _. I may mention that, +differing as I did most materially with the system of discipline +followed by the commander-in-chief, I was no favourite of his. + +One day, however, I was somewhat surprised at being ordered to prepare +for the official inspection of my ship, and by no less a person than Sir +W. M----himself. I must mention that one of the crotchets of the chief +was that vessels such as mine--namely, a gunboat of the first +class--could be floated off the shore, in case of their stranding, by +water-casks being lashed round them. So orders were given that all +vessels of that class were to lumber their decks with water-casks. I did +so, according to orders; but, not having the least confidence in the +manner in which the commander-in-chief proposed to employ them, I +utilised them, as will be seen presently, for an entirely different +purpose. + +The day of my ship's inspection was evidently not one of my lucky days. +To begin with, a horrid little monkey belonging to the crew--amusing +himself running about in the hammock-nettings near to the gangway over +which the great man had to pass--seeing something he thought unusual, +made a rush as the commander-in-chief was stepping on board, stooped +down, and deliberately took the cocked hat off his head, dropped it into +the sea, then started up the rigging chattering with delight at the +mischief he had done. The cocked hat was at once recovered, wiped dry, +and placed in its proper place. The admiral, always stern as a matter of +principle, looked, after this incident, sterner than usual, hardly +recognised me except by a formal bow, then proceeded to muster the +officers and crew. This over, he commenced to walk round the deck. I +remarked with pleasure his countenance change when he saw how neatly his +pet water-casks were painted and lashed to the inner gunnel of the ship. +He said quite graciously, 'I am glad to see, Captain Hobart, that you +pay such attention to my orders.' I began to think I was mistaken in my +idea of the man; but, alas! for my exuberance of spirits and +satisfaction. While the admiral was closely examining one of his pet +casks, his face came almost in contact with the opening of the barrel, +when, to his and my horror, a pretty little spaniel put out his head and +licked the great man on the nose. + +I shall never forget the admiral's countenance; he turned blue with +anger, drew himself up, ordered his boat to be manned, and walked over +the side not saying a word to anyone. + +The facts which led to this untoward occurrence were that, seeing the +necessity of having my decks crowded with what I considered useless +lumber, in the form of water-casks, I had utilised them by making them +into dog-kennels. The admiral hated dogs, hated sport of all kind, and, +after what occurred, I fancy hated me. Well, I didn't love him; I never +saw him again. + +The very next day I was ordered to the coast of Syria: just what I +wanted, i.e., to be out of the commander-in-chief's way, and to have +some good shooting. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +BLOCKADE-RUNNING. + + +On receiving my rank as post-captain, I found myself shelved, as it +were, for four years, while waiting my turn for a command. This was +according to the rules of the navy, so there was no getting out of it. +What was I to do? I consulted several of my friends who were in a +similar position, who, like myself, did not wish to remain idle so long, +so we looked about us for some enterprise, as something to do. + +The upshot of it was that we thought of trying if we could not conceive +some plan for breaking through the much-talked-of blockade of the +Southern States of America, then in revolt against the government of +Washington. Four of us young post-captains took this decision, and as it +would have been, perhaps, considered _infra dig._ for real naval +officers to engage in such an enterprise, we lent our minds, if not our +bodies, to certain _alter egos_, whom we inspired, if we did not +personally control, as to their line of conduct. My man I will call +Roberts, whose adventures I now give, and in whose name I shall write. +There are people who insist that I was Captain Roberts; all that such +people have to do is to prove I was that 'miscreant,' whoever he may +have been. The following is his narrative:-- + +During the late civil war in America the executive government undertook +the blockade of more than 3,000 miles of coast, and though nothing could +exceed the energy and activity of the naval officers so employed, the +results were very unsatisfactory, inasmuch as it was not till absolute +possession was taken of the forts at the entrance of the great harbours, +such as Charleston, Mobile, and Wilmington, that blockade-running was +stopped. + +I trust that our American friends will not be too severe in their +censures on those engaged in blockade-running; for, I say it with the +greatest respect for and admiration of enterprise, had they been +lookers-on instead of principals in the sad drama that was enacted, they +would have been the very men to take the lead. It must be borne in mind +that the excitement of fighting did not exist. One was always either +running away or being deliberately pitched into by the broadsides of the +American cruisers, the slightest resistance to which would have +constituted piracy; whereas capture without resistance merely entailed +confiscation of cargo and vessel. + +The vessel I had charge of--which I had brought out from England, was +one of the finest double-screw steamers that had ever been built by +D----n; of 400 tons burden, 250 horse-power, 180 feet long, and 22 feet +beam--and was, so far as sea-going qualities, speed, &c., went, as handy +a little craft as ever floated. Our crew consisted of a captain, three +officers, three engineers, and twenty-eight men, including firemen, that +is, ten seamen and eighteen firemen. They were all Englishmen, and as +they received very high wages, we managed to have picked men. In fact, +the men-of-war on the West India station found it a difficult matter to +prevent their crews from deserting, so great was the temptation offered +by the blockade-runners. + +I will begin by explaining how we prepared the vessel for the work. This +was done by reducing her spars to a light pair of lower masts, without +any yards across them; the only break in their sharp outline being a +small crow's-nest on the foremast, to be used as a look-out place. The +hull, which showed about eight feet above water, was painted a dull grey +colour to render her as nearly as possible invisible in the night. The +boats were lowered square with the gunnels. Coal was taken on board of a +smokeless nature (anthracite). The funnel, being what is called +'telescope,' lowered close down to the deck. In order that no noise +might be made, steam was blown off under water. In fact, every ruse was +resorted to to enable the vessel to evade the vigilance of the American +cruisers, who were scattered about in great numbers all the way between +Bermuda and Wilmington--the port at the time I write of most frequented +by blockade-runners. While speaking of the precautions used I may +mention that among the fowls taken on board as provisions, no cocks were +allowed, for fear of their proclaiming the whereabouts of the +blockade-runner. This may seem ridiculous, but it was very necessary. + +The distance from Bermuda to Wilmington (the port we were bound to) is +720 miles. We started in the evening. For the first twenty-four hours we +saw nothing to alarm us, but at daylight the second day there was a +large American cruiser not half a mile from us, right ahead, who, before +we could turn round, steamed straight at us, and commenced firing +rapidly, but very much at random, the shot and shell all passing over or +wide of us. + +Fortunately, according to orders to have full steam on at daybreak, we +were quite prepared for a run; and still more fortunately a heavy squall +of wind and rain that came on helped us vastly, as we were dead to +windward of the enemy; and having no top-weights we soon dropped him +astern. He most foolishly kept yawing, to fire his bow-chasers, losing +ground every time he did so. By eight o'clock we were out of +range--unhit; and by noon out of sight of anything but smoke. + +Luckily, the chase had not taken us much off our course, as the +consumption of coal during a run of this sort, with boilers all but +bursting from high pressure of steam, was a most serious +consideration--there being no coal in the Confederate ports, where wood +was only used, which would not suit our furnaces. + +We were now evidently in very dangerous waters, steamers being reported +from our mast-head every hour, and we had to keep moving about in all +directions to avoid them; sometimes stopping to let one pass ahead of +us, at another time turning completely round, and running back on our +course. Luckily, we were never seen or chased. Night came on, and I had +hoped that we should have made rapid progress till daybreak unmolested. +All was quiet until about one o'clock in the morning, when suddenly, to +our dismay, we found a steamer close alongside of us. How she had got +there without our knowledge is a mystery to me even now. However, there +she was, and we had hardly seen her before a stentorian voice howled +out, 'Heave-to in that steamer, or I'll sink you.' It seemed as if all +was over, but I determined to try a ruse before giving the little craft +up. So I answered, 'Ay, ay, sir, we are stopped.' The cruiser was about +eighty yards from us. We heard orders given to man and arm the +quarter-boats, we saw the boats lowered into the water, we saw them +coming, we heard the crews laughing and cheering at the prospect of +their prize. The bowmen had just touched the sides of our vessel with +their boat-hooks when I whispered down the tube into the engine-room, +'Full speed ahead!' and away we shot into the darkness. + +I don't know what happened; whether the captain of the man-of-war +thought that his boats had taken possession, and thus did not try to +stop us, or whether he stopped to pick up his boats in the rather nasty +sea that was running, some one who reads this may know. All I can say +is, that not a shot was fired, and that in less than a minute the pitch +darkness hid the cruiser from our view. This was a great piece of luck. + +All the next day we passed in dodging about, avoiding the cruisers as +best we could, but always approaching our post. + +During the day we got good observations with which our soundings agreed; +and at sunset our position was sixty miles due east of the entrance to +Wilmington river, off which place were cruising a strong squadron of +blockading ships. The American blockading squadron, which had undertaken +the almost impossible task of stopping all traffic along 3,000 miles of +coast, consisted of nearly a hundred vessels of different sorts and +sizes--_bonâ-fide_ men-of-war, captured blockade-runners, unemployed +steam-packets, with many other vessels pressed into government service. +Speed and sufficient strength to carry a long gun were the only +requisites, the Confederate men-of-war being few and far between. These +vessels were generally well commanded and officered, but badly manned. +The inshore squadron off Wilmington consisted of about thirty vessels, +and lay in the form of a crescent facing the entrance to Cape Clear +river, the centre being just out of range of the heavy guns mounted on +Fort Fisher, the horns, as it were, gradually approaching the shore on +each side; the whole line or curve covered about ten miles. + +The blockade-runners had been in the habit of trying to get between the +vessel at either extremity; and the coast being quite flat and +dangerous, without any landmark, excepting here and there a tree +somewhat taller than others, the cruisers generally kept at a sufficient +distance to allow of this being done. The runner would then crawl close +along the shore, and when as near as could be judged opposite the +entrance of the river, would show a light on the vessel's inshore side, +which was answered by a very indistinct light being shown on the beach, +close to the water's edge, and another at the background. These two +lights being got into a line was a proof that the opening was arrived +at; the vessels then steered straight in and anchored under the +Confederate batteries at Fort Fisher. More vessels were lost crawling +along this dangerous beach than were taken by the cruisers. I have seen +three burning at one time, for the moment a vessel struck she was set +fire to, to prevent the blockaders getting her off when daylight came. + +This system of evading the cruisers, however, having been discovered, it +was put a stop to by a very ingenious method, by which several vessels +were captured and an end put to that little game. Of course I can only +conjecture the way in which it was done, but it seemed to me to be +thus: At the extreme end of the line of blockaders lay one of them with +a kedge anchor, down so close to the shore that she left but a very +little space for the blockade-runner to pass between her and the beach. +The captain of the runner, however, trusting to his vessel's speed and +invisibility, dashed through this space, and having got by the cruiser +thought himself safe. Poor fellow! he was safe for a moment, but in such +a trap that his only chance of getting out of it was by running on shore +or giving up. For no sooner had he passed than up went a rocket from the +cruiser who had seen the runner rush by, and who now moved a little +further in towards the shore, so as to stop her egress by the way she +went in; and the other vessels closing round by a pre-arranged plan, the +capture or destruction of the blockade-runner was a certainty. + +Some of the captains most pluckily ran their vessels on shore, and +frequently succeeded in setting fire to them; but the boats of the +cruisers were sometimes too sharp in their movements to admit of this +being done, and the treatment of those who tried to destroy their +vessels was, I am sorry to say, very barbarous and unnecessary. +Moreover, men who endeavoured to escape by jumping overboard after the +vessel was on shore were often fired at by grape and shell, in what +seemed to me a very unjustifiable manner. Great allowance, however, must +be made for the men-of-war's men, who after many hard nights of dreary +watching constantly under weigh, saw their well-earned prize escaping by +being run on shore and set fire to, just as they imagined they had got +possession. On several occasions they have been content to tow the empty +shell of an iron vessel off the shore, her valuable cargo having been +destroyed by fire. + +But I have left my little craft lying as was stated about sixty miles +from the entrance of the river. I had determined to try a new method of +getting through the blockading squadron, seeing that the usual plan, as +described above, was no longer feasible or, at least, advisable. I have +mentioned that our position was well defined by observations and +soundings, so we determined to run straight through the blockaders, and +to take our chance. When it was quite dark we started steaming at full +speed. It was extremely thick on the horizon, but clear overhead, with +just enough wind and sea to prevent the little noise the engines and +screws made being heard. Every light was out--even the men's pipes; the +masts were lowered on to the deck; and if ever a vessel was invisible +the _D----n_ was that night. + +We passed several outlying cruisers, some unpleasantly near, but still +we passed them. All seemed going favourably, when suddenly I saw through +my glasses the long low line of a steamer right ahead, lying as it were +across our bows so close that it would have been impossible to pass to +the right or left of her without being seen. A prompt order given to the +engine-room (where the chief engineer stood to the engines) to reverse +one engine, was as promptly obeyed, and the little craft spun round like +a _teetotum_. If I had not seen it, I could never have believed it +possible that a vessel would have turned so rapidly, and (although, +perhaps, it is irrelevant to my subject) I cannot refrain from bearing +testimony to the wonderful powers of turning that are given to a vessel +by the application of Symond's turnscrews, as he loves to call them. On +this occasion £50,000 of property was saved to its owners. I do not +believe the cruiser saw us at all, and so very important to us was the +fact that we had turned in so short a space, that I scarcely think we +lost five yards of our position. Having turned we stopped to +reconnoitre, and could still see the faint outline of the cruiser +crawling (propelled, probably, only by the wind) slowly into the +darkness, leaving the way open to us, of which we at once took +advantage. It was now about one o'clock in the morning; our lead, and +an observation of a friendly star, told us that we were rapidly nearing +the shore. But it was so fearfully dark, that it seemed almost hopeless +ever to find our way to the entrance of the river, and no one felt +comfortable. Still we steamed slowly on and shortly made out a small +glimmer of a light right ahead. We eased steam a little, and cautiously +approached. + +As we got nearer, we could make out the outline of a vessel lying at +anchor, head to wind, and conjectured that this must be the senior +officer's vessel, which we were told generally lay about two miles and a +half from the river's mouth, and which was obliged to show some sort of +light to the cruisers that were constantly under weigh right and left of +her. The plan of finding out this light, and using it as a guide to the +river's entrance, being shortly after this time discovered, the vessel +that carried it was moved into a different position every night, whereby +several blockade-runners came to grief. + +Feeling pretty confident now of our position, we went on again at full +speed, and made out clearly the line of blockaders lying to the right +and left of the ship which showed the light; all excepting her being +apparently under weigh. Seeing an opening between the vessel at anchor +and the one on her left, we made a dash, and, thanks to our disguise and +great speed, got through without being seen, and made the most of our +way towards the land. As a strong current runs close inshore which is +constantly changing its course, and there were no lights or landmarks to +guide us, it was a matter of great difficulty to find the very narrow +entrance to the river. + +We were now nearly out of danger from cruisers, who seldom ventured very +close inshore in the vicinity of the batteries; and our pilot, who had +been throughout the voyage in bodily fear of an American prison, began +to wake up, and, after looking well round, told us that he could make +out, over the long line of surf, a heap of sand called 'the mound,' +which was a mark for going into the river. + +This good news emboldened us to show a small light from the inshore side +of the vessel; it was promptly answered by two lights being placed a +short distance apart on the beach, in such a position that, when the two +were brought into line, or, as the sailors call it, into one, the vessel +would be in the channel which led into the river. This being done +without interruption from the cruisers, we steamed in and anchored +safely under the batteries of Fort Fisher. + +Being now perfectly safe, lights were at once lit, supper and grog +served out _ad libitum_, everybody congratulated everybody, and a +feeling of comfort and jollity, such as can only be experienced after +three nights' and three days' intense anxiety, possessed us all. On the +morning breaking we counted twenty-five cruisers lying as near as they +dared venture off the river's mouth, and a very pleasant sight it was, +situated as we were. There was evidently a move among them of an unusual +kind; for the smaller vessels were steaming in towards the shore on the +north side, and the ships' launches, with guns in their bows, were +pulling about from vessel to vessel. The cause of it as day advanced was +but too apparent. + +Just out of range of Fort Fisher's heavy artillery, on the north side of +the river's entrance, a splendid paddle-wheel blockade-runner was lying +on the beach, having been run on shore during the night to avoid +capture. + +Her crew had evidently escaped to the shore, and a smouldering smoke +showed that she had been set fire to, and that a little wind was all +that was necessary to make the flames break out. The blockading ships do +not appear to have been aware of the damage they had done till daylight +discovered the vessel, that they probably thought had either got into +the river or escaped to sea, lying on the beach. However, they were not +slow in making preparations for capturing her, if possible. + +Meanwhile, two of the crew of the blockade-runner managed to get on +board of her, and setting her on fire in a dozen different places, +everything in the vessel was soon destroyed, and her red-hot sides made +boarding an impossibility. + +So the gunboats retired out of range, and the artillery with the +Whitworth guns returned to Fort Fisher. The shell of this vessel lay for +months on the beach and was by no means a bad mark for the +blockade-runners to steer by. + +Having witnessed this little bit of excitement and received on board the +crew of the stranded vessel, we took a pilot on board and steamed up the +Cape Clear river to Wilmington. + +It will be difficult to erase from my memory the excitement of the +evening we made our little craft fast alongside the quay at Wilmington; +the congratulations we received, the champagne cocktail we imbibed, the +eagerness with which we gave and received news, the many questions we +asked, such as, 'How long shall we be unloading?' 'Was our cargo of +cotton ready?' 'How many bales could we carry?' 'How other +blockade-runners had fared?' &c.; and the visits from thirsty and +hungry Southerners of all ranks and denominations, many of whom had not +tasted alcohol in any form for months, to whom whatever they liked to +eat or drink was freely given, accompanied by congratulations on all +sides. All these things, combined with the delightful feeling of +security from capture, and the glorious prospect of a good night's rest +in a four-poster, wound one up into an inexpressible state of jollity. +If some of us had a little headache in the morning, surely it was small +blame to us. Our host's cocktails, made of champagne bitters and pounded +ice, soon put all things to rights; and after breakfast we lounged down +to the quays on the river-side, which were piled mountains high with +cotton-bales and tobacco tierces, and mixed in the lively and busy scene +of discharging, selling, and shipping cargoes. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +EXCITING ADVENTURES. + + +I may now, I trust, without appearing egotistical, digress slightly from +the narrative to give an account of how I managed with my own private +venture, which I had personally to attend to; for it is scarcely +necessary to mention that in blockade-running everyone must look after +himself. If he does not his labour will have been in vain. + +Before leaving England I had met a Southern lady, who, on my inquiring +as to what was most needed by her compatriots in the beleaguered States, +replied curtly: 'Corsages, sir, I reckon.' So I determined to buy a lot +of the articles she referred to, and on arriving at Glasgow (the port +from which we originally started) I visited an emporium that seemed to +contain everything in the world; and I astonished a young fellow behind +the counter by asking for a thousand pairs of stays. Such an unusual +request sent him off like a rocket to higher authority, with whom I +made a bargain for the article required at one shilling and a penny per +pair, to be delivered the next day. At the same time I bought five +hundred boxes of Cockle's pills, and a quantity of toothbrushes. Well, +here I was in Wilmington, with all these valuables on my hands; the +corsages were all right, but the horrid little Cockles were bursting +their cerements and tumbling about my cabin in all directions. I was +anxious, with the usual gallantry of my cloth, to supply the wants of +the ladies first. The only specimens of the sex that I could see moving +about were coloured women, who were so little encumbered with dress that +I began to think I was mistaken in the article recommended by my lady +friend as being the most required out here. After waiting some time, and +no one coming to bid for my ware, I was meditating putting up on the +ship's side a large board with the name of the article of ladies' dress +written on it--a pillbox for a crest, and toothbrushes as +supporters--when an individual came on board and inquired whether I +wished 'to trade.' I greedily seized upon him, took him into my retreat, +and made him swallow three glasses of brandy in succession, after which +we commenced business. + +I will not trouble my reader with the way in which we traded; regarding +the corsages, suffice it to say that he bought them all at what seemed +to me the enormous price of twelve shillings each, giving me a profit of +nearly eleven hundred per cent. + +On my asking where the fair wearers of the article he had bought could +be seen, he told me that all the ladies had gone into the interior. I +hope they found my importations useful; they certainly were not +ornamental. + +Elated as I was by my success, I did not forget the Cockles, and gently +insinuated to my now somewhat excited friend that we might do a little +more trading. To my disgust he told me that he had never heard of such a +thing as Cockle's pills. I strongly urged him to try half-a-dozen, +assuring him that if he once experienced their invigorating effects he +would never cease to recommend them. But the ignorant fellow didn't seem +to see it; for, finishing his brandy and buttoning up his pockets, he +walked on shore. I never thought of naming toothbrushes, for what could +a man who had never heard of Cockles know of the luxury of toothbrushes? +So I sat quietly down, and began to sum up my profits on the _corsages_. + +I was deeply engaged in this occupation when I felt a heavy hand on my +shoulder. Turning round I saw my friend the trader, who, after having +smothered my boot in tobacco-juice, said, 'I say, captain, have you got +any coffin-screws on trade?' His question rather staggered me, but he +explained that they had no possible way of making this necessary article +in the Southern States, and that they positively could not keep the +bodies quiet in their coffins without them, especially when being sent +any distance for interment. As I had no acquaintance, I am happy to say, +with the sort of thing he wanted, it was agreed upon between us that I +should send to England for a quantity, he, on his part, promising an +enormous profit on their being delivered. + +I cannot help remarking on the very great inconvenience and distress +that were entailed on the South through the want of almost every +description of manufacture. The Southern States, having always been the +producing portion of the Union, had trusted to the North, and to Europe +for its manufactures. Thus, when they were shut out by land and by sea +from the outer world, their raw material was of but little service to +them. This fact tended, more than is generally believed, to weaken the +Southern people in the glorious struggle they made for what they called +and believed to be their rights,--a struggle, the horrors of which are +only half understood by those who were not eye-witnesses of it. Whether +the cause was good, whether armed secession was justifiable or not, is a +matter regarding which opinions differ. But it is undeniable that all +fought and endured in a manner worthy of a good and a just cause, and +many were thoroughly and conscientiously convinced it was so. Such men +as Lee, Stonewall Jackson, and others would never have joined any cause +against their convictions; but it won't do for a blockade-runner to +attempt to moralise. So to return to my story. + +My readers will be desirous of knowing what was the result of my +speculation in Cockles and toothbrushes. Regarding the former, I am +sorry to say that all my endeavours to induce my Southern friends to try +their efficacious powers were of no avail, so I determined to take them +with me to Nassau (if I could get there), thinking that I might find a +market at a place where everyone was bilious from over eating and +drinking, on the strength of the fortunes they were making by +blockade-running; and there I found an enterprising druggist who gave me +two chests of lucifer matches in exchange for my Cockles, which matches +I ultimately sold in the Confederacy at a very fair profit. My +toothbrushes being not in the slightest degree appreciated at +Wilmington, I sent them to Richmond, where they were sold at about seven +times their cost. + +So ended my speculation. The vessel's cargo consisted of blankets, +shoes, Manchester goods of all sorts, and some mysterious cases marked +'hardware,' about which no one asked any questions, but which the +military authorities took possession of. This cargo was landed, and +preparations made for taking on board THE paying article in this trade, +namely, cotton. + +I never bought it in any quantity, but I know that the price in the +Southern States averaged from twopence to threepence a pound, the price +in Liverpool at that time being about half-a-crown. + +We were anxious to try the luck of our run-out before the moon got +powerful, so the cargo was shipped as quickly as possible. In the first +place, the hold was stored by expert stevedores, the cotton-bales being +so closely packed that a mouse could hardly find room to hide itself +among them. The hatches were put on, and a tier of bales put fore and +aft in every available spot on the deck, leaving openings for the +approaches to the cabins, engine-room, and the men's forecastle; then +another somewhat thinner tier on the top of that, after which a few +bales for the captain and officers, those uncontrollable rascals whom +the poor agents could not manage, and the cargo was complete. Loaded in +this way, the vessel with only her foremast up, with her bow-funnel, and +grey-painted sides, looked more like a huge bale of cotton with a stick +placed upright at one end of it, than anything else I can think of. One +bale for----, and still one more for---- (I never tell tales out of +school), and all was ready. + +We left the quay at Wilmington cheered by the hurrahs of our brother +blockade-runners, who were taking in and discharging their cargoes, and +steamed a short distance down the river, when we were boarded to be +_searched_ and _smoked_. This latter extraordinary proceeding, called +for perhaps by the existing state of affairs, took me altogether aback. +That a smoking apparatus should be applied to a cargo of cotton seemed +almost astounding. But so it was ordered, the object being to search for +runaways, and, strange to say, its efficacy was apparent, when, after an +hour or more's application of the process (which was by no means a +gentle one), an unfortunate wretch, crushed almost to death by the +closeness of his hiding-place, poked with a long stick till his ribs +must have been like touchwood, and smoked the colour of a backwood +Indian, was dragged by the heels into the daylight, ignominiously put +into irons, and hurled into the guard-boat. This discovery nearly caused +the detention of the vessel on suspicion of our being the accomplices of +the runaway; but after some deliberation, we were allowed to go on. + +Having steamed down the river a distance of about twenty miles, we +anchored at two o'clock in the afternoon near its mouth. We were hidden +by Fort Fisher from the blockading squadron lying off the bar, there to +remain till some time after nightfall. After anchoring we went on shore +to take a peep at the enemy from the batteries. Its commandant, a fine, +dashing young Confederate officer, who was a firm friend to +blockade-runners, accompanied us round the fort. We counted twenty-five +vessels under weigh; some of them occasionally ventured within range; +but no sooner had one of them done so, than a shot was thrown so +unpleasantly near that she at once moved out again. + +We were much struck with the weakness of Fort Fisher, which, with a +garrison of twelve hundred men, and only half finished, could have been +easily taken at any time since the war began by a resolute body of five +thousand men making a night attack. It is true that at the time of its +capture it was somewhat stronger than at the time I visited it, but even +then its garrison was comparatively small, and its defences unfinished. +I fancy the bold front so long shown by its occupiers had much to do +with the fact that such an attack was not attempted till just before the +close of the war. The time chosen for our starting was eleven o'clock, +at which hour the tide was at its highest on the bar at the entrance of +the river. Fortunately the moon set about ten, and as it was very +cloudy, we had every reason to expect a pitch-dark night. There were two +or three causes that made one rather more nervous on this occasion than +when leaving Bermuda. + +In the first place, five minutes after we had crossed the bar, we should +be in the thick of the blockaders, who always closed nearer in on the +very dark nights. Secondly, our cargo of cotton was of more importance +than the goods we had carried in; and thirdly, it _was the thing to do_ +to make the double trip in and out safely. There were also all manner of +reports of the new plans that had been arranged by a zealous commodore +lately sent from New York to catch us all. However, it was of no use +canvassing these questions, so at a quarter to eleven we weighed anchor +and steamed down to the entrance of the river. + +Very faint lights, which could not be seen far at sea, were set on the +beach in the same position as I have before described, having been thus +placed for a vessel coming in; and bringing these astern in an exact +line, that is the two into one, we knew that we were in the passage for +going over the bar. The order was then given, 'Full speed ahead,' and we +shot at a great speed out to sea. + +Our troubles began almost immediately; for the cruisers had placed a +rowing barge, which could not be seen by the forts, close to the +entrance, to signalise the direction which any vessel that came out +might take. This was done by rockets being thrown up by a designed plan +from the barge. We had hardly cleared the bar when we saw this boat very +near our bows, nicely placed to be run clean over, and as we were going +about fourteen knots, her chance of escape would have been small had we +been inclined to finish her. Changing the helm, which I did myself, a +couple of spokes just took us clear. We passed so close that I could +have dropped a biscuit into the boat with ease. I heard the crash of +broken oars against our sides; not a word was spoken. + +I strongly suspect every man in that boat held his breath till the great +white avalanche of cotton, rushing by so unpleasantly near, had passed +quite clear of her. + +However, they seemed very soon to have recovered themselves, for a +minute had scarcely passed before up went a rocket, which I thought a +very ungrateful proceeding on their part. But they only did their duty, +and perhaps they did not know how nearly they had escaped being made +food for fishes. On the rocket being thrown up, a gun was fired +uncommonly close to us, but as we did not hear any shot, it may have +been only a signal to the cruisers to keep a sharp look-out. + +We steered a mile or two near the coast, always edging a little to the +eastward, and then shaped our course straight out to sea. Several guns +were fired in the pitch-darkness very near us. (I am not quite sure +whether some of the blockaders did not occasionally pepper each other.) +After an hour's fast steaming, we felt moderately safe, and by the +morning had a good offing. + +Daylight broke with thick, hazy weather, nothing being in sight. We went +on all right till half-past eight o'clock, when the weather cleared up, +and there was a large paddle-wheel cruiser (that we must have passed +very near to in the thick weather) about six miles astern of us. The +moment she saw us she gave chase. After running for a quarter of an hour +it was evident that with our heavy cargo on board, the cruiser had the +legs of us, and as there was a long day before us for the chase, things +looked badly. We moved some cotton aft to immerse our screws well; but +still the cruiser was steadily decreasing her distance from us, when an +incident of a very curious nature favoured us for a time. + +It is mentioned in the book of sailing directions, that the course of +the Gulf Stream (in the vicinity of which we knew we were) is in calm +weather and smooth water plainly marked out by a ripple on its inner and +outer edges. We clearly saw, about a mile ahead of us, a remarkable +ripple, which we rightly, as it turned out, conjectured was that +referred to in the book. As soon as we had crossed it, we steered the +usual course of the current of the Gulf Stream, that here ran from two +to three miles an hour. Seeing us alter our course, the cruiser did the +same; but she had _not_ crossed the ripple on the edge of the stream, +and the course she was now steering tended to keep her for some time +from doing so. The result soon made it evident that the observations in +the book were correct; for until she too crossed the ripple into the +stream, we dropped her rapidly astern, whereby we increased our distance +to at least seven miles. + +It was now noon, from which time the enemy again began to close with +us, and at five o'clock was not more than three miles distant. At six +o'clock she opened a harmless fire with the Parrot gun in her bow, the +shot falling far short of us. The sun set at a quarter to seven, by +which time she had got so near that she managed to send two or three +shots over us, and was steadily coming up. + +Luckily, as night came on, the weather became very cloudy, and we were +on the dark side of the moon, now setting in the West, which +occasionally breaking through the clouds astern of the cruiser, showed +us all her movements, while we must have been very difficult to make +out, though certainly not more than a mile off. All this time she kept +firing away, thinking, I suppose, that she would frighten us into +stopping. If we had gone straight on, we should doubtless have been +caught; so we altered our course two points to the eastward. After +steaming a short distance we stopped quite still, blowing off steam +under water, not a spark or the slightest smoke showing from the funnel; +and we had the indescribable satisfaction of seeing our enemy steam past +us, still firing ahead at some imaginary vessel. + +This had been a most exciting chase and a very narrow escape; night only +saved us from a New York prison. All this hard running had made an +awful hole in our coal-bunkers, and as it was necessary to keep a stock +for a run off the blockaded Bahama Islands, we were obliged to reduce +our expenditure to as small a quantity as possible. However we were well +out to sea, and after having passed the line of cruisers between +Wilmington and Bermuda, we had not much to fear till we approached the +British possessions of Nassau and the adjacent islands, where two or +three very fast American vessels were cruising, although five hundred +miles from American waters. I am ignorant, I confess, of the laws of +blockade, or indeed if a law there be that allows its enforcement, and +penalties to be enacted, five hundred miles away from the ports +blockaded. But it did seem strange that the men-of-war of a nation at +peace with England should be allowed to cruise off her ports, to stop +and examine trading vessels of all descriptions, to capture and send to +New York, for adjudication, vessels on the mere suspicion of their being +intended blockade-runners; and to chase and fire into real +blockade-runners so near to the shore that on one occasion the shot and +shell fell into a fishing village, and that within sight of an English +man-of-war lying at anchor in the harbour at Nassau. Surely it is time +that some well-understood laws should be made, and rules laid down, or +such doings will sooner or later recoil on their authors. + +Having so little coal on board, we determined on making for the nearest +point of the Bahama Islands, and luckily reached a queer little island +called Green Turtle Quay, on the extreme north of the group, where was a +small English colony, without being seen by the cruisers. We had not +been there long, however, before one of them came sweeping round the +shore, and stopped unpleasantly near to us; even though we were inside +the rock she hovered about outside, not a mile from us. + +We were a tempting bait, but a considerable risk to snap, and I suppose +the American captain could not quite make up his mind to capture a +vessel (albeit a blockade-runner piled full of cotton) lying in an +English port, insignificant though that port might be. We had got a +large white English ensign hoisted on a pole, thereby showing the +nationality of the rock, should the cruiser be inclined to question it. +After many longing looks, she steamed slowly away, much to our +satisfaction. Coals were sent to us from Nassau the next day, which +having been taken on board, we weighed anchor, keeping close to the +reefs and islands all the way. We steamed towards that port, and arrived +safely, having made the in-and-out voyage, including the time in +unloading and loading at Wilmington, in sixteen days. + +To attempt to describe at length the state of things at this usually +tranquil and unfrequented little spot is beyond my powers. I will only +mention some of its most striking features. Nassau differed much from +Wilmington, inasmuch as at the latter place there was a considerable +amount of poverty and distress, and men's minds were weighted with many +troubles and anxieties; whereas, at Nassau, everything at the time I +speak of was _couleur de rose_. Every one seemed prosperous and happy. +You met with calculating, far-seeing men who were steadily employed in +feathering their nests, let the war in America end as it might; others +who, in the height of their enthusiasm for the Southern cause, put their +last farthing into Confederate securities, anticipating enormous +profits; some men, careless and thoughtless, living for the hour, were +spending their dollars as fast as they made them, forgetting that they +would 'never see the like again.' There were rollicking captains and +officers of blockade-runners, and drunken swaggering crews; sharpers +looking out for victims; Yankee spies; and insolent worthless _free +niggers_--all these combined made a most heterogeneous, though +interesting, crowd. + +The inhabitants of Nassau, who, until the period of blockade-running, +had, with some exceptions, subsisted on a precarious and somewhat +questionable livelihood gained by wrecking, had their heads as much +turned as the rest of the world. Living was exorbitantly dear, as can be +well imagined, when the captain of a blockade-runner could realise in a +month a sum as large as the Governor's salary. The expense of living was +so great that the officers of the West India regiment quartered here had +to apply for special allowance, and I believe their application was +successful. The hotel, a large building, hitherto a most ruinous +speculation, began to realise enormous profits. In fact, the almighty +dollar was spent as freely as the humble cent had been before this +golden era in the annals of Nassau. + +As we had to stay here till the time for the dark nights came round +again, we took it easy, and thoroughly enjoyed all the novelty of the +scene. Most liberal entertainment was provided free by our owner's +agent, and altogether we found Nassau very jolly: so much so, that we +felt almost sorry when 'time' was called, and we had to prepare for +another run. In fact, it was pleasanter in blockade-running to look +backwards than forwards, especially if one had been so far in good luck. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +A VISIT TO CHARLESTON. + + +All being ready, we steamed out of Nassau harbour, and were soon again +in perilous waters. We had a distant chase now and then--a mere child's +play to us after our experience--and on the third evening of our voyage +we were pretty well placed for making a run through the blockading +squadron as soon as it was dark. As the moon rose at twelve o'clock, it +was very important that we should get into port before she threw a light +upon the subject. + +Unfortunately, we were obliged to alter our course or stop so often to +avoid cruisers that we ran our time too close; for, as we were getting +near to the line of blockade, a splendid three-quarter-size moon rose, +making everything as clear as day. Trying to pass through the line of +vessels ahead with such a bright light shining would have been madness; +in fact, it was dangerous to be moving about at all in such clear +weather, so we steamed towards the land on the extreme left of the line +of cruisers, and having made it out, went quite close inshore and +anchored. + +By lying as close as we dare to the beach, we must have had the +appearance of forming part of the low sand-hills, which were about the +height and colour of the vessel; the wood on their tops forming a +background which hid the small amount of funnel and mast that showed +above the decks. We must have been nearly invisible, for we had scarcely +been an hour at anchor when a gun-boat came steaming along the shore +very near to the beach; and while we were breathlessly watching her, +hoping that she would go past, she dropped anchor alongside of us, a +little outside where we were lying--so close that we not only heard +every order that was given on board, but could almost make out the +purport of the ordinary conversation of the people on her decks. A +pistol shot would have easily reached us. Our position was most +unpleasant, to say the least of it. We could not stay where we were, as +it only wanted two hours to daybreak. If we had attempted to weigh +anchor, we must have been heard doing so. However, we had sufficient +steam at command to make a run for it. So, after waiting a little to +allow the cruiser's fires to get low, we knocked the pin out of the +shackle of the chain on deck, and easing the cable down into the water, +went ahead with one engine and astern with the other, to turn our vessel +round head to seaward. + +Imagine our consternation when, as she turned, she struck the shore +before coming half round (she had been lying with her head inshore, so +now it was pointed along the beach, luckily in the right direction, i.e. +lying from the cruiser). There was nothing left to us but to put on full +speed, and if possible force her from the obstruction, which after two +or three hard bumps we succeeded in doing. + +After steaming quite close to the beach for a little way, we stopped to +watch the gun-boat, which, after resting for an hour or so, weighed +anchor and steamed along the beach in the opposite direction to the way +we had been steering, and was soon out of sight. So we steamed a short +distance inshore and anchored again. It would have been certain capture +to have gone out to sea just before daybreak, so we made the little +craft as invisible as possible, and remained all the next day, trusting +to our luck not to be seen. And our luck favoured us; for, although we +saw several cruisers at a distance, none noticed us, which seems almost +miraculous. + +Thus passed Christmas Day, 1863, and an anxious day it was to all of +us. We might have landed our cargo where we were lying, but it would +have been landed in a dismal swamp, and we should have been obliged to +go into Wilmington for our cargo of cotton. + +When night closed in we weighed anchor and steamed to the entrance of +the river, which, from our position being so well defined, we had no +difficulty in making out. We received a broadside from a savage little +gun-boat quite close inshore, her shot passing over us, and that was +all. We got comfortably to the anchorage about half-past eleven o'clock, +and so ended our second journey in. + +I determined this time to have a look at Charleston, which was then +undergoing a lengthened and destructive siege. So, after giving over my +craft into the hands of the owner's representatives, who would unload +and put her cargo of cotton on board, I took my place in the train and, +after passing thirty-six of the most miserable hours in my life +travelling the distance of one hundred and forty miles, I arrived at the +capital of South Carolina, or rather near to that city--for the train, +disgusted I suppose with itself, ran quietly off the line about two +miles from the station into a meadow. The passengers seemed perfectly +contented, and shouldering their baggage walked off into the town. I +mechanically followed with my portmanteau, and in due course arrived at +the only hotel, where I was informed I might have half a room. + +Acting on a hint I received from a black waiter that food was being +devoured in the coffee-room, and that if I did not look out for myself I +should have to do without that essential article for the rest of the +day, I hurried into the _salle-à-manger_, where two long tables were +furnished with all the luxuries then to be obtained in Charleston, which +luxuries consisted of lumps of meat supposed to be beef, boiled Indian +corn, and I think there were the remains of a feathered biped or two, to +partake of which I was evidently too late. All these washed down with +water, or coffee without sugar, were not very tempting; but human nature +must be supported, so to it I set, and having swallowed a sufficient +quantity of animal food, I went off to my room to take a pull at a +bottle of brandy which I had sagaciously stored in my carpet-bag. But, +alas! for the morals of the beleaguered city. I found, on arriving +there, a nigger extended at full length in happy oblivion on the floor, +with the few clothes I had with me forming his pillow, and the brandy +bottle rolling about alongside of him, empty. + +I first of all hammered his head against the floor, but the floor had +the worst of it; then I kicked his shins (the only vulnerable part of a +nigger), but it was of no use; so pouring the contents of a water jug +over him, in the hope that I might thus cause awful dreams to disturb +his slumbers, I left him, voting myself a muff for leaving the key in my +box. + +Having letters of introduction to some of General Beauregard's staff, I +made my way to headquarters, where I met with the greatest courtesy and +kindness. An orderly was sent with me to show me the top of the tower, a +position that commanded a famous view of the besieging army, the +blockading squadron, and all the defences of the place. A battery had +just been placed by the enemy (consisting of five Parrot guns of heavy +calibre) five miles from the town, and that day had opened fire for the +first time. At that enormous range the shell occasionally burst over or +fell into the city, doing, however, little damage. The elevation of the +guns must have been unusually great. I am told that every one of them +burst after a week's, or thereabouts, firing. Poor Fort Sumter was +nearly silenced after many months' hammering, but its brave defenders +remained in it to the last, and it was not till a few days before +Charleston was abandoned that they gave it up. At the time I speak of +the whole of the western beach was in the hands of the enemy, Battery +Wagner having succumbed after one of the most gallant defences on +record. While it remained in the hands of the Southerners it assisted +Fort Sumter, inasmuch as from its position it kept the enemy at a +distance, but after its capture, or rather destruction, the latter fort +was exposed to a tremendous fire from ships and batteries, and its solid +front was terribly crumbled. + +Surrounded, however, with water as it was, it would have been most +difficult to take by assault; and from what I could learn, certain +destruction would have met any body of men who had attempted it +latterly. There it stood, sulkily firing a shot or shell now and then, +more out of defiance than anything else. The blockading, or rather +bombarding, squadron was lying pretty near to it on the western side of +the entrance to the harbour; but on the east side, formidable batteries +belonging to the Southerners kept them at a respectable distance. +Blockade-running into Charleston was quite at an end at the time I am +writing about. Not that I think the cruisers could have kept vessels +from getting in, but for the reason that the harbour was a perfect +network of torpedoes and infernal machines (the passage through which +was only known to a few persons), placed by the Southerners to prevent +the Northern fleet from approaching the city. + +Having had a good look at the positions of the attacking and defending +parties, I went down from the tower and paid a visit to a battery where +two Blakely guns of heavy calibre, that had lately been run through the +blockade in the well-known 'Sumter' (now the 'Gibraltar'), were mounted. +These guns threw a shot of 720 lbs. weight, and were certainly +masterpieces of design and execution. Unhappily, proper instructions for +loading had not accompanied them from England, and on the occasion of +the first round being fired from one of them, the gun not being properly +loaded, cracked at the breech, and was rendered useless; the other, +however, did good service, throwing shot with accuracy at great +distances. I saw much that was interesting here, but more able pens than +mine have already described fully the details of that long siege, where +on one hand all modern appliances of war that ingenuity could conceive +or money purchase were put into the hands of brave and determined +soldiers; on the other hand were bad arms, bad powder, bad provisions, +bad everything; desperate courage and unheard-of self-denial being all +the Southerners had to depend upon. + +These poor Southerners never began to open their eyes to the +hopelessness of their cause till Sherman's almost unopposed march showed +the weakness of the whole country. Even strangers like myself were so +carried away with the enthusiasm of the moment, that we shut our eyes to +what should have been clearly manifest to us. We could not believe that +men who were fighting and enduring as these men were could ever be +beaten. Some of their leaders must have foreseen that the catastrophe +was coming months before it occurred; but, if they did so, they were +afraid to make their opinion public. + +On returning to the hotel, I found it full of people of all classes +indulging in tobacco (the only solace left them) in every form. It is +all very well to say that smoking is a vile habit; so it may be, when +indulged in by luxurious fellows who eat and drink their full every day, +and are rarely without a cigar or pipe in their mouths; it may, perhaps, +be justly said that such men abuse the use of the glorious narcotic +supplied by Providence for men's consolation under difficulties. But +when a man has hard mental and bodily work, and barely enough food to +support nature, water being his only drink, then give him tobacco, and +he will thoroughly appreciate it. Besides, it will do him real good. I +think that at any time its use in moderation is harmless and often +beneficial, but under the circumstances I speak of it is a luxury +without price. + +During the evening I met at the hotel a Confederate naval officer who +was going to attempt that night to carry havoc among the blockading +squadron by means of a cigar-shaped vessel of a very curious +description. + +This vessel was a screw steamer of sixty feet in length, with eight feet +beam. She lay, before being prepared for the important service on which +she was going, with about two feet of her hull showing above the water, +at each end of which, on the shoulder as it were of the cigar, was a +small hatch or opening, just large enough to allow a man to pop through +it: from her bows projected a long iron outrigger, at the end of which +there was fixed a torpedo that would explode on coming into contact with +a vessel's side. + +When the crew were on board, and had gone down into the vessel through +one of the hatches above mentioned, the said hatches were firmly closed, +and by arrangements that were made from the inside the vessel was sunk +about six inches below the water, leaving merely a small portion of the +funnel showing. Steam and smoke being got rid of below water, the vessel +was invisible, torpedo and all being immersed. + +The officer having thus described his vessel, wished me good-night, and +started on his perilous enterprise. I met him again next evening quietly +smoking his pipe. I eagerly asked him what he had done, when he told me +with the greatest _sang-froid_ that he had gone on board his vessel with +a crew of seven men; that everything for a time had gone like clockwork; +they were all snug below with hatches closed, the vessel was sunk to the +required depth, and was steadily steaming down the harbour, apparently +perfectly water-tight, when suddenly the sea broke through the foremost +hatch and she went to the bottom immediately. He said he did not know +how he escaped. He imagined that after the vessel had filled he had +managed to escape through the aperture by which the water got in; all +the rest of the poor fellows were drowned. Not that my friend seemed to +think anything of that, for human life was very little thought of in +those times. This vessel was afterwards got up, when the bodies of her +crew were still in her hold. I imagined that the vessel contained +sufficient air to enable her to remain under water two or three hours, +or maybe some method was practised by which air could be introduced by +the funnel; at all events, had she been successful on that night, she +would undoubtedly have caused a good deal of damage and loss to the +blockading squadron, who were constantly harassed by all sorts of +infernal machines, torpedoes, fire-vessels, &c., which were sent out +against them by ingenious Southerners, whose fertile imaginations were +constantly conceiving some new invention. + +On the next occasion that same enterprising officer was employed on a +similar enterprise, his efforts were crowned with complete success. + +He started one dark night, in a submerged vessel of the same kind as +that above described, and exploded the torpedo against the bows of one +of the blockading squadron, doing so much damage that the vessel had to +be run on shore to prevent her sinking. + +I must, before finishing my account of what I saw and did in Charleston, +mention a circumstance that showed how little the laws of _meum_ and +_tuum_ are respected during war times. The morning before I left, I had +a fancy for having my coat brushed and my shoes polished. So having +deposited these articles on a chair at the door of my room, I went to +bed again to have another snooze, hoping to find them cleaned when I +awoke. After an hour or so I got up to dress, and rang the bell several +times without getting any answer. So I opened the door and looked out +into the passage. To my surprise I saw an individual sitting on the +chair on which I had put my clothes, trying on one of my boots. He had +succeeded in getting it half on when it had stuck, and at the time I +discovered him he seemed to be in a fix, inasmuch as he could neither +get the boot off nor on. He was struggling violently with my poor boot, +as if it were his personal enemy, and swearing like a trooper. Not +wishing to increase his ire, I blandly insinuated that the boots were +mine, on which he turned his wrath towards me, making most unpleasant +remarks, which he wound up by saying that in these times anything that a +man could pick up lying about was his lawful property, and that he was +astonished at my impudence in asking for the boots. However, as the +darned things would not fit him 'no how,' he guessed I was welcome to +them; and giving a vicious tug to the boot to get it off, he succeeded +in doing so, and I, picking it up with its fellow, made good my retreat. +But where was my coat? I could not get an echo of an answer, where? So I +went downstairs and told my piteous tale to the landlord, who laughed at +my troubles, and told me he could not give me the slightest hopes of +ever seeing it again; but he offered to lend me a garment in which to +travel to Wilmington, which offer I gladly accepted. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +NEVER CAUGHT! + + +On my return to Wilmington I found that my vessel was ready for sea, so +I took charge of her, and we went down the river. + +We had to undergo the same ordeal as before in the way of being smoked +and searched. This time there were no runaways discovered, but there was +one on board for all that, who made his appearance, almost squashed to +death, after we had been twenty-four hours at sea. We then anchored +under Fort Fisher, where we waited until it was dark, after which, when +the tide was high enough on the bar, we made a move and were soon +rushing out to sea at full speed. There was a considerable swell +running, which we always considered a point in our favour. By the way, +writing of swells puts me in mind of a certain 'swell' I had on board as +passenger on this occasion, who, while in Wilmington, had been talking +very big about 'hunting,' which probably he supposed I knew nothing +about. He used to give us long narratives of his own exploits in the +hunting-field, and expatiated on the excitement of flying over ditches +and hedges, while apparently he looked upon blockade-running and its +petty risks with sublime contempt. Soon after we crossed the bar on our +way out a gentle breeze and swell began to lift the vessel up and down, +and this motion he described as 'very like hunting.' + +Just after he had ventured this remark, a Yankee gun-boat favoured us +with a broadside and made a dash to cut us off. This part of the fun, +however, my friend did not seem to think at all 'like hunting,' and +after having strongly urged me to return to the anchorage under the +protecting guns of the fort, he disappeared below, and never talked, to +me at least, about hunting again. + +But to return to my story, there was, as I said before, a considerable +swell running outside, which was fortunate for us, as we ran almost into +a gunboat lying watching unusually close to the bar. It would have been +useless to turn round and endeavour to escape by going back, as, if we +had done so, we should inevitably have been driven on to the beach, and +either captured or destroyed. In such a predicament there was nothing +for it but to make a dash past and take the gun-boat's fire and its +consequences. I knew we had the legs of her, and therefore felt more at +ease in thus running the gauntlet than I otherwise should have done, so +on we went at full speed. She fired her broadside at about fifty yards +distance, but the shot all passed over us, except one that went through +our funnel. The marines on board of her kept up a heavy fire of musketry +as long as we were visible, but only slightly wounded one of our men. +Rockets were then thrown up as signals to her consorts, two of which +came down on us, but luckily made a bad guess at our position, and +closed with us on our quarter instead of our bow. They also opened fire, +but did us no injury. At the moment there was no vessel in sight ahead; +and as we were going at a splendid pace, we soon reduced our dangerous +companions to three or four shadowy forms struggling astern without a +hope of catching us. The signalising and firing had, however, brought +several other blockaders down to dispute our passage, and we found +ourselves at one moment with a cruiser on each side within a pistol shot +of us; our position being that of the meat in a sandwich. So near were +the cruisers, that they seemed afraid to fire from the danger of hitting +each other, and, thanks to our superior speed, we shot ahead and left +them without their having fired a shot. + +Considering the heavy swell that was running, there was the merest +chance of their hitting us; in fact, to take a blockade-runner in the +night, when there was a heavy swell or wind, if she did not choose to +give in, was next to impossible. To run her down required the cruiser to +have much superior speed, and was a dangerous game to play, for vessels +have been known to go down themselves while acting that part. + +Then, again, it must be borne in mind that the blockade-runner had +always full speed at command, her steam being at all times well up and +every one on board on the look-out; whereas the man-of-war must be +steaming with some degree of economy and ease, and her look-out men had +not the excitement to keep them always on the _qui vive_ that we had. + +I consider that the only chances the blockading squadron had of +capturing a blockade-runner were in the following instances; viz., in a +fair chase in daylight, when superior speed would tell, or chasing her +on shore, or driving her in so near the beach that her crew were driven +to set fire to her and make their escape; in which case a prize might be +made, though perhaps of no great value; or frightening a vessel by guns +and rockets during the night into giving up. Some of the +blockade-runners showed great pluck, and stood a lot of pitching into. +About sixty-six vessels left England and New York to run the blockade +during the four years' war, of which more than forty were destroyed by +their own crews or captured; but most of them made several runs before +they came to grief, and in so doing paid well for their owners. + +I once left Bermuda, shortly before the end of the war, in company with +four others, and was the only fortunate vessel of the lot. Of the other +four, three were run on shore and destroyed by their own crews, and one +was fairly run down at sea and captured. + +I saw an extraordinarily plucky thing done on one occasion, which I +cannot refrain from narrating. We had made a successful run through the +blockade, and were lying under Fort Fisher, when as daylight broke we +heard a heavy firing, and as it got lighter we saw a blockade-runner +surrounded by the cruisers. Her case seemed hopeless, but on she came +for the entrance, hunted like a rabbit by no end of vessels. The guns of +the fort were at once manned, ready to protect her as soon as her +pursuers should come within range. Every effort was made to cut her off +from the entrance of the river, and how it was she was not sunk I cannot +tell. As she came on we could see N----, her commander, a well-known +successful blockade-runner, standing on her paddle-box with his hat off, +as if paying proper respect to the men-of-war. And now the fort opened +fire at the chasing cruisers, from whom the blockade-runner was +crawling, being by this time well inshore. One vessel was evidently +struck, as she dropped out of range very suddenly. On came the 'Old +J----,' one of the fastest boats in the trade, and anchored all right; +two or three shots in her hull, but no hurt. Didn't we cheer her! the +reason of her being in the position in which we saw her at daylight was +that she had run the time rather short, and daylight broke before she +could get into the river; so that, instead of being there, she was in +the very centre of the blockading fleet. Many men would have given in, +but old N---- was made of different stuff. + +We got well clear of the cruisers before daybreak, and keeping far out +to sea, were unmolested during the run to Nassau, where we arrived +safely with our second cargo of cotton, having this time been eighteen +days making the round trip. + +Having made two round trips, we could afford to take it easy for a +short time, and as the dark nights would not come on for three weeks, we +gave the little craft a thorough refit, hauling her up on a patent slip +that an adventurous American had laid down especially for +blockade-runners, and for the use of which we had to pay a price which +would have astonished some of our large ship-owners. I may mention that +blockade-runners always lived well; may be acting on the principle that +'good people are scarce'; so we kept a famous table and drank the best +of wine. An English man-of-war was lying in the harbour, whose officers +frequently condescended to visit us, and whose mouths watered at what +they saw and heard of the profits and pleasures of blockade-running. +Indeed, putting on one side the sordid motives which I dare say to a +certain extent actuated us, there was a thrilling and glorious +excitement about the work, which would have well suited some of these +gay young fellows. + +Time again came round too soon, and we had to start on another trip, and +to tear ourselves away from all sorts of amusements, some of us from +domestic ties: for there were instances of anxious wives who, having +followed their husbands to the West Indies, vastly enjoyed all the +novelty of the scene. These ladies had their pet ships, in whose +captains they had confidence, and in which they sent private ventures +into the Confederacy; and in this way some of them made a nice little +addition to their pin-money. I don't know that any of them speculated in +Cockle's pills or corsages, but I heard of one lady who sent in a large +quantity of yellow soap, and made an enormous profit out of her venture. + +Having completed the necessary alterations and repairs, and made all +snug for a fresh run, we started again from the port of Nassau. We had +scarcely steamed along the coast forty miles from the mouth of the +harbour, when we discovered a steamer bearing down on us, and we soon +made her out to be a well-known, very fast Yankee cruiser, of whom we +were all terribly afraid. As we were still in British waters, skirting +the shore of the Bahamas, I determined not to change my course, but kept +steadily on, always within a mile of the shore. On the man-of-war firing +a shot across our bows as a signal for us to heave to, I hoisted the +English colours and anchored. An American officer came on board, who, +seeing unmistakable proofs of the occupation we were engaged in, seemed +very much inclined to make a prize of us; but on my informing him that I +claimed exemption from capture on the ground of the vessel being in +British waters, he, after due consideration, sulkily wished me good +morning and went back to his ship. She continued to watch us till the +middle of the night, when I imagine something else attracted her +attention, and she steamed away. We, taking advantage of her temporary +absence, weighed our anchor and were soon far out at sea. + +At the end of three days we had run into a position about sixty miles +from Wilmington without any incident happening worth mentioning. On our +nearing the blockading squadron at nightfall we heard a great deal of +firing going on inshore, which we conjectured (rightly as it afterwards +appeared) was caused by the American ships, who were chasing and +severely handling a blockade-runner. An idea at once struck me, which I +quickly put into execution. We steamed in as fast as we could, and soon +made out a vessel ahead that was hurrying in to help her consorts to +capture or destroy the contraband. We kept close astern of her, and in +this position followed the cruiser several miles. She made signals +continually by flashing different coloured lights rapidly from the +paddle-boxes, the meaning of which I tried my best to make out, so that +I might be able to avail myself of the knowledge of the blockade signals +at some future time; but I could not manage to make head or tail of +them. + +Suddenly the firing ceased, and our pioneer turned out to sea again. As +we were by this time very near inshore, we stopped the engines and +remained quite still, but unluckily could not make out our exact +position. + +The blockading cruisers were evidently very close in, so we did not like +moving about; besides, the pilot was confident that we were close enough +to the entrance of the river to enable us to run in when day broke, +without being in any danger from the enemy. + +Thus for the remainder of the night we lay quite close to the beach. +Unfortunately, however, about an hour before daylight we struck the +shore, and all our efforts to free the vessel were of no avail. + +As the day dawned we found that we were about a mile from Fort Fisher, +and that two of the American vessels nearest the shore were about a mile +from us when we first made them out, and were steaming to seaward, +having probably been lying pretty near to the river's mouth during the +darkness of the night. They were not slow to make us out in our unhappy +position. I ordered the boats to be lowered, and gave every one on board +the option of leaving the vessel, as it seemed evident that we were +doomed to be a bone of contention between the fort and the blockaders. +All hands, however, stuck to the ship, and we set to work to lighten her +as much as possible. Steam being got up to the highest pressure, the +engines worked famously, but she would not move, and I feared the sand +would get into the bilges. And now a confounded vessel deliberately +tried the range with her Parrot gun, and the shot splashed alongside of +us. Her fire, however, was promptly replied to by Fort Fisher. The shot +from the fort's heavy artillery passed right over and close to the +cruiser, and made her move further out, and thus spoiled the accuracy of +the range of our devoted little craft, which the man-of-war had so +correctly obtained. We made a frantic effort to get off our sandy bed, +and on all hands running from one extremity of the vessel to the other, +to our delight she slipped off into deep water. + +But our troubles were not yet over. To get into the river's mouth it was +necessary to make a _détour_, to do which we had to steer out towards +the blockading fleet for a quarter of a mile before we could turn to go +into the river. While we were performing this somewhat ticklish +manoeuvre, Fort Fisher most kindly opened a heavy fire from all its guns, +and thus drew the attention of the blockaders from us. In twenty +minutes from the time we got off we were safely at anchor under the +Confederate batteries. The vessel that had been so hard chased and fired +at during the night was lying safely at the anchorage, not very much +damaged. + +This was by far the most anxious time we had gone through. We had to +thank the commandant and garrison of Fort Fisher for our escape. Having +paid our gallant rescuers a visit, we took a pilot on board and steamed +up to Wilmington. Cape Clear river at this time was full of all sorts of +torpedoes and obstructions, put down to prevent any gun-boats from +approaching the town of Wilmington, should the forts at its entrance be +taken possession of by the enemy. And as the whereabouts of these +obstructions were only known to certain pilots, we had to be careful to +have the right man on board. We got up in safety, and finding that our +cargo of cotton was ready, made haste to unload and prepare for sea +again as quickly as possible. + +There was nothing interesting in Wilmington, which is a large straggling +town built on sand-hills. At the time I write of the respectable +inhabitants were nearly all away from their homes, and the town was full +of adventurers of all descriptions; some who came to sell cotton, others +to buy at enormous prices European goods brought in by +blockade-runners. These goods they took with them into the interior, +and, adding a heavy percentage to the price, people who were forced to +buy them paid most ruinous prices for the commonest necessaries of life. + +On this occasion we spent a very short time at Wilmington, and having +taken our cargo of cotton, we went down the river to the old waiting +place under the friendly batteries of Fort Fisher. We had scarcely +anchored when a heavy fog came on; as the tide for going over the bar +did not suit till three o'clock in the morning, which I considered an +awkward time, inasmuch as we should only have two hours of darkness left +in which to get our offing from the land, I determined to go out in the +fog and take my chance of the thick weather lasting. I calculated that +if we had met with any cruisers, they would not have been expecting us, +and so would have been under low steam. + +I was told by every one that I was mad to venture out, and all sorts of +prognostications were made that I should come to grief, in spite of +which omens of disaster, however, I went over the bar at four o'clock in +the afternoon in a fog, through which I could hardly see from one end of +the ship to the other, and took my chance. As we went on the fog seemed +to get if possible still thicker, and through the night it was +impossible for us to see anything or anything to see us. + +In the morning we had an offing of at least a hundred and twenty miles, +and nothing was in sight. We made a most prosperous voyage, and arrived +at Nassau safely in seventy-two hours, thus completing our third round +trip. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +LAST DAYS ON THE 'D----N.' + + +As no vessel had succeeded since the blockade was established in getting +into Savannah (a large and flourishing town in Georgia, situated a few +miles up a navigable river of the same name), where there was a famous +market for all sorts of goods, and where plenty of the finest sea-island +cotton was stored ready for embarkation, and as the southern port pilots +were of opinion that all that was required to ensure success was an +effort to obtain it, I undertook to try if we could manage to get the +'D----n' in. + +The principal difficulty we had to contend with was that the Northerners +had possession of a large fortification called Pulaski, which, being +situated at the entrance of the river, commanded the passage up to the +town. + +To pass this place in the night seemed easy work enough, as it would be +hard for the sentry to make a vessel out disguised as we were; but to +avoid the shoals and sand-banks at the river's mouth, in a pitch-dark +night, seemed to me, after carefully studying the chart, to be a most +difficult matter. This, however, was the pilot's business; all we +captains had to do was to avoid dangers from the guns of ships and +forts; or, if we could not avoid them, to stand being fired at. + +The pilot we had engaged was full of confidence; so much so, that he +refused to have any payment for his services until he had taken us in +and out safely. I may as well mention that there were few if any +blockading vessels off Savannah river, the Northerners having perfect +confidence, I presume, in Fort Pulaski and the shoals which surrounded +the entrance of the river being sufficient to prevent any attempt at +blockade-running succeeding. The lights in the ship off Port Royal, a +small harbour in the hands of the Northern Government, a few miles from +the entrance to Savannah, were as bright as in the time of peace, and +served as a capital guide to the river's mouth. After two days' run from +Nassau we arrived without accident to within twenty miles of the low +land through which the Savannah river runs, and at dark steered for the +light-vessel lying off Port Royal. Having made it out, in fact steaming +close up to it, we shaped our course for Fort Pulaski, using the light +as a point of departure, the distance by the chart being twelve miles. +We soon saw its outlines looming through the darkness ahead, and +formidable though it looked, it caused me no anxiety, compared with the +danger we seemed to be in from the shoalwater and breakers being all +around us. However, the pilot who had charge of such matters seemed +comfortable enough. + +So we went cautiously along, and in ten minutes would have been past +danger, at all events from the batteries on the fort, when one of the +severest storms I ever remember of wind and rain, accompanied by thunder +and lightning, came on, and enveloped us in a most impenetrable +darkness. Knowing that we were surrounded by most dangerous shoals, and +being then in only fifteen feet water, I felt our position to be a very +perilous one. The pilot had by this time pretty well lost his head; in +fact, it would have puzzled anyone to say where we were. So we turned +round and steered out to sea again, by the same way we had come in; and +when we were as near as we could guess twenty miles from land, we let go +our anchor in fifteen fathoms water. + +Then came on a heavy gale of wind accompanied by a thick fog, which +lasted three days and nights. I never in my life passed such an +unpleasant time, rolling our gunnels under, knowing that we were +drifting, our anchor having dragged, but in what direction it was +difficult to judge; unable to cook, through the sea we had shipped +having put our galley-fire out; and, worse than all, burning quantities +of coal, as we had to keep steam always well up, ready for anything that +might happen. + +One day it cleared up for half an hour about noon, and we managed to get +meridian observations, which showed us that we had drifted thirty miles +of latitude, but we still remained in ignorance of our longitude. On the +fourth day the gale moderated, the weather cleared up, and we +ascertained our position correctly by observations. + +When it was dark we steered for the light-vessel off Port Royal, +meaning, as before, to make her our point of departure for the entrance +of the river. But we went on and on, and we could not see the glimmer of +a light or even anything of a vessel (we found out afterwards that the +light-ship had been blown from her moorings in the gale). This was a +nice mess. The pilot told us that to attempt to run for the entrance +without having the bearings of the light to guide us would have been +perfect madness. We had barely enough coals to take us back to Nassau, +and if we had remained dodging about, waiting for the light-vessel to be +replaced, we should have been worse off for fuel, of which we had so +little that if we had been chased on our way back we should certainly +have been captured. + +So we started for Nassau, keeping well in shore on the Georgia and +Florida coast. Along this coast there were many small creeks and rivers +where blockade-running in small crafts, and even boats, was constantly +carried on, and where the Northerners had stationed several brigs and +schooners of war, who did the best they could to stop the traffic. Many +an open boat has run over from the northernmost island of the Bahamas +group, a distance of fifty miles, and returned with one or two bales of +cotton, by which her crew were well remunerated. + +We had little to fear from sailing men-of-war, as the weather was calm +and fine, so we steamed a few miles from the shore, all day passing +several of them, just out of range of their guns. One vessel tried the +effect of a long shot, but we could afford to laugh at her. + +The last night we spent at sea was rather nervous work. We had reduced +our coals to about three-quarters of a ton, and had to cross the Gulf +Stream at the narrow part between the Florida coast and the Bahamas, a +distance of twenty-eight miles, where the force of the current is four +knots an hour. Our coals were soon finished. We cut up the available +spars, oars, &c., burnt a hemp cable (that by the way made a capital +blaze), and just managed to fetch across to the extreme western end of +the group of islands belonging to Great Britain, where we anchored. + +We couldn't have steamed three miles further. On the wild spot where we +anchored there was fortunately a small heap of anthracite coal, that +probably had been part of the cargo of some wreck, of which we took as +much as would carry us to Nassau, and arrived there safely. Thus the +attempt to get into Savannah was a failure. It was tried once afterwards +by a steamer which managed to get well past the fort, but which stuck on +a sand-bank shortly after doing so, and was captured in the morning. + +It is not my intention to inflict on my readers any more anecdotes of my +own doings in the 'D----n;' suffice it to say that I had the good luck +to make six round trips in her, in and out of Wilmington, and that I +gave her over to the chief officer and went home to England with my +spoils. On arriving at Southampton, the first thing I saw in the 'Times' +was a paragraph headed, 'The Capture of the "D----n."' Poor little +craft! I learned afterwards how she was taken, which I will relate, and +which will show that she died game. + +The officer to whom I gave over charge was as fine a specimen of a +seaman as well can be imagined, plucky, cool, and determined, and by the +way he was a bit of a medico, as well as a sailor; for by his beneficial +treatment of his patients we had very few complaints of sickness on +board. As our small dispensary was close to my cabin, I used to hear the +conversation that took place between C---- and his patients. I will +repeat one. + +_C._ 'Well, my man, what's the matter with you?' + +_Patient._ 'Please, sir, I've got pains all over me.' + +_C._ 'Oh, all over you, are they; that's bad.' + +Then, during the pause, it was evident something was being mixed up, and +I could hear C---- say: 'Here, take this, and come again in the +evening.' (Exit patient.) Then C. said to himself: 'I don't think he'll +come again; he has got two drops of the croton. Skulking rascal, pains +all over him, eh!' I never heard the voice of that patient again; in +fact, after a short time we had no cases of sickness on board. C---- +explained to me that the only medicine he served out, as he called it, +was _croton oil_; and that none of the crew came twice for treatment. + +Never having run through the blockade as the commander of a vessel +(though he was with me all the time and had as much to do with our luck +as I had), he was naturally very anxious to get safely through. There +can be no doubt that the vessel had lost much of her speed, for she had +been very hardly pushed on several occasions. This told sadly against +her, as the result will show. On the third afternoon after leaving +Nassau she was in a good position for attempting the run when night came +on. She was moving stealthily about waiting for the evening, when +suddenly, on the weather, which had been hitherto thick and hazy, +clearing up, she saw a cruiser unpleasantly near to her, which bore down +under steam and sail, and it soon became probable that the poor little +'D----n's' twin screws would not save her this time, well and often as +they had done so before. + +The cruiser, a large full-rigged corvette, was coming up hand over hand, +carrying a strong breeze, and the days of the 'D----n' seemed numbered, +when C---- tried a ruse worthy of any of the heroes of naval history. + +The wind, as I said, was very fresh, with a good deal of sea running. +On came the cruiser till the 'D----n' was almost under her bows, and +shortened sail in fine style. The moment the men were in the rigging, +going aloft to furl the sails, C---- put his plan into execution. He +turned his craft head to wind, and steamed deliberately past the +corvette at not fifty yards' distance. She, with great way on, went +nearly a quarter of a mile before she could turn. + +I have it from good authority that the order was not given to the +marines on the man-of-war's poop to fire at the plucky little craft who +had so fairly out-manoeuvred the cruiser, for out-manoeuvred she was to +all intents and purposes. The two or three guns that had been cast loose +during the chase had been partially secured, and left so while the men +had gone aloft to furl the sails, so that not a shot was fired as she +went past. Shortly after she had done so, however, the cruiser opened +fire with her bow guns, but with the sea that was running it could do no +harm, being without any top weights. The 'D----n' easily dropped the +corvette with her heavy spars astern, and was soon far ahead; so much so +that when night came on the cruiser was shut out of sight in the +darkness. + +After this the 'D----n' deserved to escape, but it was otherwise fated. +The next morning when day broke she was within three miles of one of the +new fast vessels, which had come out on her trial trip, flying light, +alas! She had an opportunity of trying her speed advantageously to +herself. She snapped up the poor 'D----n' in no time, and took her into +the nearest port. I may mention that the 'D----n' and her captain were +well known and much sought after by the American cruisers. The first +remark that the officer made on coming aboard her was: 'Well, Captain +Roberts, so we have caught you at last!' and he seemed much disappointed +when he was told that the captain they so particularly wanted went home +in the last mail. The corvette which had chased and been cheated by the +'D----n' the day before was lying in the port into which she was taken. +Her captain, when he saw the prize, said: 'I must go on board and shake +hands with the gallant fellow who commands that vessel!' and he did so, +warmly complimenting C---- on the courage he had shown, thus proving +that he could appreciate pluck, and that American naval men did not look +down on blockade-running as a grievous sin, hard work as it gave them in +trying to put a stop to it. They were sometimes a little severe on men +who, after having been fairly caught in a chase at sea, wantonly +destroyed their compasses, chronometers, &c., rather than let them fall +into the hands of the cruiser's officers. I must say that I was always +prepared, had I been caught, to have made the best of things, to have +given the officers who came to take possession all that they had fairly +gained by luck having declared on their side, and to have had a farewell +glass of champagne with the new tenant at the late owner's expense. The +treatment received by persons captured engaged in running the blockade +differed very materially. If a _bonâ fide_ American man-of-war of the +old school made the capture, they were always treated with kindness by +their captors. But there were among the officers of vessels picked up +hurriedly and employed by the Government a very rough lot, who rejoiced +in making their prisoners as uncomfortable as possible. They seemed to +have only one good quality, and this was that there were among them many +good freemasons, and frequently a prisoner found the advantage of having +been initiated into the brotherhood. + +The 'D----n's' crew fell into very good hands, and till they arrived at +New York were comfortable enough; but the short time they spent in +prison there, while the vessel was undergoing the mockery of a trial in +the Admiralty Court, was far from pleasant. However, it did not last +very long--not more than ten days; and as soon as they were free most of +them went back to Nassau or Bermuda ready for more work. C---- came to +England and told me all his troubles. Poor fellow! I am afraid his +services were not half appreciated as they ought to have been, for +success, in blockade-running as in everything else, is a virtue, whereas +bad luck, even though accompanied with the pluck of a hero, is always +more or less a crime not to be forgiven. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +RICHMOND DURING THE SIEGE. + + +After the excitement of the last six or eight months I could not long +rest in England, satisfied with the newspaper accounts of the goings on +in the blockade-running world. So I got the command of a new and very +fast paddle-wheel vessel, and went out again. The American Government +had determined to do everything in its power to stop blockade-running, +and had lately increased the force of blockaders on the southern coast +by some very fast vessels built at New York. Being aware of this, some +of the first shipbuilders in England and Scotland were put, by persons +engaged in blockade-running, on their mettle, to try and build steamers +to beat them, and latterly it became almost a question of speed, +especially in the daylight adventures, between blockaders and +blockade-runners. + +Some of the vessels on this side of the water were constructed +regardless of any good quality but speed, consequently their scantling +was light, and their seagoing qualities very inferior. Many of them came +to grief; two or three swamped at sea; others, after being out a few +days, struggled back into Queenstown, the lamest of lame ducks; while +some got out as far as Nassau quite unfit for any further work. + +My vessel was one of the four built by R---- and G---- of Glasgow, and +was just strong enough to stand the heavy cross sea in the Gulf Stream. +She was wonderfully fast, and, taking her all in all, was a success. On +one occasion I had a fair race in the open day with one of the best of +the new vessels that the American Government had sent out to beat +creation wherever she could meet it, and I fairly ran away from her. + +On arriving at Wilmington in my new vessel I started to have a look at +Richmond, which city was then besieged on its southern and eastern sides +by General Grant, who, however, was held in check by Lee at Petersburg, +a small town situated in an important position about eighteen miles from +the capital. To get to Richmond was not easily accomplished without +making a long _détour_ into the interior (for which we had no time), for +the outposts of the contending armies disputed possession of the last +forty miles of the railroad between Wilmington and Petersburg, the +latter town being on the line to Richmond. As telegraphic communication +was stopped, it was a difficult matter to ascertain, day by day, whether +a train could pass safely. + +We had in our party the young General Custos Lee, a nephew of the +Confederate commander-in-chief, on his way to his uncle's headquarters, +who kindly offered his assistance in getting us through. When we arrived +at a station some forty miles from Richmond we found, as we feared would +be the case, our further progress by rail impracticable, but we got hold +of a couple of waggons drawn by mules, into which we managed to stow +ourselves and baggage the latter, by the way, being of considerable +importance, as it contained several cases of drinkables, not to be +obtained for love or money where we were going to. We travelled through +all sorts of by-lanes, bumped almost to pieces for four miles, steering +in the direction of the headquarters of the cavalry outposts, which were +commanded by a celebrated raiding officer, also a nephew of the +commander-in-chief. At last we found ourselves in a beautiful green +valley surrounded by thick woods, where the general and his staff were +quartered. He had with him two or three thousand cavalry, who, in spite +of their bad clothing and somewhat hungry appearance, were as +fine-looking a body of men as one would wish to see. + +The general and his staff gave us a hearty welcome. Poor fellows, it was +all they had to offer! We on our part produced sundry cases of sardines, +Bologna sausages, and other tempting condiments wherewith to make a +feast. + +The drink we mixed in two horse buckets cleaned up for the occasion; a +dozen or so of claret, a couple of bottles of brandy, and half a dozen +of soda water, the whole cooled with two or three lumps of ice (of which +article, as if in mockery, the Southerners had heaps). All these good +things were duly appreciated, not only by our new friends, who for +months past had tasted nothing but coarse rye-bread and pork washed down +with water, but also by well-shaken travellers like ourselves. Lying on +the grass in that lovely spot, it seemed as if the war and all its +horrors were for the moment forgotten. There were several Englishmen +among the officers composing the staff, who had (they said) come out +here to see active service, which they unquestionably had found to their +hearts' content. They seemed the sort of men who would do credit to +their country. I often wonder what has become of them; in one of them I +was particularly interested. He said his name was Cavendish, but it may +have been a _nom de guerre_. + +While we were in the camp a picket came in, whose officer reported +having had a skirmish with the enemy, in which the Northerners had been +whipped. The way the cavalry outposts engaged with each other was +curious enough. The ground they met on did not admit of cavalry charges +being made, as thick underwood covered the country for miles round. So, +when they were inclined for a brush, they dismounted, tied their horses +to trees, and skirmished in very open lines, every man picking out his +special enemy. When they had had enough of it, they picked up their +killed and wounded, and, mounting their horses, rode away. + +After passing four or five hours with our cavalry friends we bade them +good-bye, and started (still accompanied by our valuable companion, the +young general) on our way to the headquarters of the army, where we were +to pass the night. It was well for us that we travelled in such good +company, for having to pass all along the outskirts of the Southern +army, we were constantly stopped and interrogated by patrols and +pickets. Besides which we were sometimes disagreeably near to the +outposts of the 'boys in blue,' as Grant's men were called. Having +arrived very late in the evening at our destination, we bivouacked under +the trees close to the headquarters of the general commanding, who was +away at the front, and not expected back till the next evening. The +rattle of musketry and the boom of heavy guns all through the night +reminded us of our vicinity to the theatre of war, and somewhat +disturbed our rest. But if we were a little nervous, we took care not to +show it. In the morning we started in our waggons, and, after travelling +a few miles across the country, came to the railway that connected the +camp with Richmond. A train shortly afterwards picked us up and landed +us at the capital of Virginia, where we took up our quarters at a +comfortable-looking hotel. There was more to drink and eat here than at +Charleston, consequently people had cheerful countenances. Liquor was, +however, dear, brandy being sold at twenty-five shillings per bottle, it +having to be run through the blockade. Here we found that the people had +that wonderful blind confidence in the Southern cause which had mainly +supported them through all difficulties. + +At this moment, though a line of earthworks hurriedly thrown up in a few +hours at Petersburg was nearly all that kept Grant's well-organised army +from entering the capital; though the necessaries of war, and even of +life, were growing alarmingly short; though the soldiers were badly fed, +and only half-clothed or protected from the inclemency of the weather +(one blanket being all that was allowed to three men), still every one +seemed satisfied that the South would somehow or other gain the day, and +become an independent nation. + +While in Richmond I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of the +talented correspondent of the 'Times,' who, although in a position to +look on calmly at passing events, was so carried away by his admiration +of the wonderful pluck shown by the Southerners, and by the general +enthusiasm of the people among whom he lived, that he allowed himself to +be buoyed up with the hope that something would eventually turn up in +their favour, and in his letters never seemed to despair. Had he done +otherwise he would have stood alone, so he swam with the tide; whereas +all of us, especially those who were mere lookers-on, should have seen +the end coming months before we were obliged to open our eyes to the +fact that it was come. Through his acquaintance with the big-wigs, we +managed to get a few of them to accept an invitation to a feed, as we +could offer luxuries such as could not be found in Richmond. + +Some of the first men in the Confederacy honoured us with their +company, and made themselves uncommonly agreeable, seeming quite a jolly +set of fellows. I fear that they have nearly all come to grief since +then, except Mr. Benjamin, the Minister of Foreign Affairs, who before +his death, which occurred several years after the time that I write, +made himself a name in England worthy of his high talents and education. + +I had the honour, while in Richmond, of being invited to a tea party by +Mrs. Davis, the President's wife, which I thought very interesting. The +ladies were all dressed in deep mourning; some (the greater part) for +the sad reason that they had lost near and dear relatives in the +wretched war; the others, I suppose, were in mourning for their +country's misfortunes. Mrs. Davis moved about the room saying something +civil to every one, while the President, though a stern-looking man who +never smiled, tried to make himself agreeable to his guests, and gave +one the idea of a thorough gentleman. I saw there military officers who +had lately come from the front, surrounded by groups of people anxious +for news; delegates from distant seceding States; messengers from Hood's +army, about which many were beginning to be anxious; sympathising +foreigners, government officials, and many others. The whole of the +conversation naturally related to the prospects of the cause, and no one +would have guessed from what he heard in President Davis's house that +the end was so near. + +I was anxious before my return to see something of the army that had so +long defended Richmond. So I only remained a few days at the capital, +after which I left it and its, alas! too confiding inhabitants, and made +my way as best I could to the headquarters of the commander-in-chief. +There I presented my letters of introduction to General Lee. + +It would perhaps be impertinence on my part to attempt to eulogise the +character of this excellent man and good soldier, who, most thoroughly +believing in the justice of the Southern cause, had sacrificed +everything he possessed in its behalf, and had thrown all his energy and +talent into the scale in its favour. Many who knew him well have done +and will continue to do justice to his patriotism and self-denial. I had +a very long conversation with him, which I wish I could repeat without +being guilty of a breach of confidence, as evidence of the sensible +notions he had formed of the state of affairs in the South. He was the +only man I met during my travels who took a somewhat gloomy view of the +military prospects of the country--of which, as a soldier, there could +be no better judge. + +After spending twenty-four hours in the camp, we went to the railway +station to see if we could get places for Wilmington. We found that the +line was in the hands of the Southerners, and that although the 'boys in +blue' had a vulgar habit of firing into the carriages as they passed, +the trains were running each night. But a train running and a +non-combatant passenger getting a place in a carriage were widely +different things, every available seat being taken up by sick and +wounded soldiers. I made a frantic effort to get into the train somehow, +and after a severe struggle succeeded in scrambling into a sort of +horse-box and sat me down on a long deal box, which seemed rather a +comfortable place to sleep on. It was pitch dark when I got into the +train, and we were obliged to keep in the dark until we had run the +gauntlet of the Northern pickets, who favoured us with a volley or two +at a long range from the hills overlooking the railway. When we were +clear of them I lighted a match, and to my horror found that I was +comfortably lounging on a coffin. I wished I had not thrown a light on +the subject, but by degrees, becoming accustomed I suppose to my +position, I sank into a comfortable sleep and was really quite sorry +when, on arriving at some station just before daylight, people came to +remove my peculiar though far from uncomfortable couch. I felt its loss +the more, for in its place they put a poor fellow wounded nearly to +death, whose moans and cries were, beyond anything, distressing. We were +a long time getting to Wilmington, as it was necessary to stop and +repair most of the bridges on the line before the train could venture +over them, an operation at which all passengers sound in wind and limb +had to assist. + +On arriving there we found all the world in a state of great excitement, +on account of there having been a terrible fire among the cotton lying +on the quays ready for embarkation, supposed to have been the work of an +incendiary. + +The recollections of my last proceedings in the blockade-running are far +from pleasant, and I shall pass them over as briefly as possible. + +When we had only the American Government cruisers to fear, we enjoyed +the excitement in the same way as a man enjoys fox-hunting (only, by the +way, we were the fox instead of the huntsmen), but when dire disease, in +the worst form that Yellow Jack could take, stalked in amongst us, and +reduced our numbers almost hourly, things became too serious to be +pleasant. + +However, before the fever showed itself we made one successful round +trip in the new vessel (in and out) in capital form, having some +exciting chases and little adventures, all very similar to what I have +described before, the vessel doing credit to her designers on all +occasions. We landed one thousand one hundred and forty bales of cotton +at Bermuda, and it was after we had started from Wilmington on our +second trip that the horrid yellow fever broke out among us. I believe +that every precaution was taken by the Government of the island to +prevent the disease from spreading, but increased by the drunkenness, +dissipation, and dirty habits of the crews of the blockade-runners, and +the wretchedly bad drainage of the town of St. George, it had lately +broken out with great violence, and had spread like wildfire, both on +the shore and among the shipping. It must have been brought on board our +ship by some of the men, who had been spending much time on shore; we +had not been twenty-four hours at sea before the fever had got deadly +hold on our crew. + +We went to Halifax, where we landed our sick and inhaled some purer air; +but it was of no avail. The fever was in the vessel and we could not +shake it off. The poor fellows as soon as we were out at sea again began +to drop off. I never can forget an incident of that voyage, which, as +it could only have happened during blockade-running times, I will +mention, melancholy though it was. Two men died in the middle watch one +night, when we were in very dangerous waters. Their bodies were wrapped +in rough shrouds, ready to be committed to the deep when daylight broke, +as we dared not show a light whereby to read the Funeral Service. I +never waited so anxiously or thought the dawn so long in coming. I was +waiting with my Prayer-book in my hands straining my eyes to make out +the service; the men with their hats off, standing by the bodies, ready +to ease them down into the sea. Our minds I fear wandered towards the +danger that existed (almost to a certainty) of a cruiser making us out +by the same light that enabled us to perform our sad office. However, as +soon as there was light enough, the service was read without any +indecent hurry, and fortunately nothing was in sight to disturb us for +several hours afterwards. + +It was miserable work. That morning about seven o'clock a man came up +from the engine-room, and while trying to say something to me fell down +in a fit, and was dead in half an hour. There was quite a panic among us +all, and as if to make things worse to the superstitious sailors, +whenever we stopped several horrid sharks immediately showed themselves +swimming round the vessel. The men lost all heart, and would I think +have been thankful to have been captured, as a means of escape from what +they believed to be a doomed vessel. Taking into consideration that if +we got into Wilmington we should, with this dreadful disease on board, +have been put into almost interminable quarantine (for the inhabitants +of Wilmington having been decimated before by yellow fever, which was +introduced by blockade-runners, had instituted the most severe sanitary +laws), I determined to go back to Halifax. + +On arriving there I was taken very ill with yellow fever, and on my +recovery made up my mind to give up blockade-running for ever and all. +The game indeed was fast drawing to a close. Its decline was caused in +the first by the impolitic behaviour of the people at Wilmington, who, +professedly acting under orders from the Confederate Government at +Richmond, pressed the blockade-runners into their service to carry out +cotton on Government account, in such an arbitrary manner that the +profit to their owners, who had been put to an enormous expense and risk +in sending vessels in, was so much reduced that the ventures hardly +paid. And when at last Fort Fisher was taken, and thus all +blockade-running entirely put an end to, the enterprise had lost much of +its charm; for, unromantic as it may seem, much of that charm consisted +in money-making. + +However, I will mention one or two instances to show what the love of +enterprise will lead men to do, and with these I will close my +narration. + +On the first night of the attack on Fort Fisher, which it may be +remembered was a failure entirely through bad management, though its +little garrison fought like lions, a blockade-runner unaware of what was +going on, finding that the blockading squadron was very near inshore and +hearing a great deal of firing, kept creeping nearer to the fort, till +she was near enough to make out what they were doing. Judging rightly +that they would never suspect that any attempt would be made to run the +blockade at such a time, she joined a detachment of gun-boats and went +deliberately in as one of them. When they, being repulsed, had steamed +away, our friend remained at anchor under the fort, much to the +astonishment of the garrison. It would have been rather awkward if the +fort had been taken, but in such times no one looks very far ahead. + +Another vessel went out from Wilmington the same night, and was +unmolested. But fortune does not always favour the brave. Fort Fisher +was at last taken _unbeknownst_, as the sailors say, to the +blockade-runners at Nassau or Bermuda, at which places the blindest +confidence was still felt in everything connected with the fortunes of +the South, and where to whisper an opinion that any mishap might happen +to Wilmington was positively dangerous. The crafty Northerners placed +the lights for going over the bar as usual. The blockade-runners came +cautiously on, and congratulating themselves at seeing no cruisers ran +gaily into the port. The usual feasting and rejoicings were about to +commence when a boat full of armed men came alongside, and astonished +them by telling them that they were in the lion's mouth. This happened +to four or five vessels before the news had reached the islands. It was +hard lines, no doubt, but quite fair play. It was the blockaders' turn +to laugh now. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +THE LAND BLOCKADE. + + +I have now come to the end of my blockade-running yarns. I have +endeavoured to avoid giving offence to anyone: to the American officers +and men who manned the cruisers I can, as a nautical man, truly and +honestly give the credit of having most zealously performed their hard +and wearisome duty. It was not their fault that I did not visit New York +at the Government's expense; but the old story that 'blockades, to be +legal, must be efficient,' is a tale for bygone days. So long as +batteries at the entrance of the port blockaded keep ships at a +respectable distance, the blockade will be broken. + +A practical suggestion that my experience during the time I was a +witness of the war in America would lead me to make is, that, both for +the purposes of war and of blockade, speed is the most important object +to attain. Towards the end of that contest, blockade-running became +much more difficult, in fact, was very nearly put a stop to, not by the +ports becoming more effectually closed to traffic, but by the sea being +literally covered with very fast vessels, who picked up many +blockade-runners at sea during the daytime, especially when they had +their heavy cargoes of cotton on board. The Americans are also perfectly +alive to the fact that, for purposes of war, speed is all important. An +American officer of rank once remarked to me: 'Give me a fifteen-knot +wooden vessel armed with four heavy guns of long range, and I'll laugh +at your lumbering iron-clads.' Perhaps he had prize-money in view when +he said so; or, what is still more important, he may have felt how +easily such vessels as those he proposed would sweep the seas of foreign +privateers. In these views I can but think he was right and far-seeing. +Time will show. + +It may have struck my readers as strange that, in a country with so +large an inland boundary, the necessaries of life and munitions of war +could not have been introduced into the Southern States by their +extensive frontiers: but it is only a just tribute to the wonderful +energy shown by the Northern Americans during the civil war, to state +that the blockade by land was as rigid as that enforced by their fleets; +and almost as much risk was run by persons who broke the land blockade +as by those who evaded the vigilance of the cruisers at sea. The courses +of the large inland rivers were protected by gun-boats, and on account +of the rapids and other impediments, such as snags, with which they were +filled, the fords or passes for boats were few and far between, and thus +easily guarded; besides which, it was always a difficult matter to avoid +the pickets belonging to either party, who were very apt to suspect a +man they found creeping about without any ostensible object, and anyone +suspected of being a spy in those days had a short shrift and a long +rope applied before he knew where he was. More from a spirit of +enterprise than from any other reason, I determined to see what the land +blockade was like, and while at Richmond, happening to meet another +adventurous individual also so inclined, we commenced our plan of +campaign. + +First of all (by the way, I ought to mention that we were both nautical +parties) we engaged a pilot, thereby meaning a man who had a canoe or +two stowed away in different parts of the woods, and who was well +acquainted with the passes on the river. Our amiable friend, the +correspondent of the 'Times.' showed so much confidence in our success +that he entrusted to our care a packet of despatches, which were +intended, if we got through successfully, to delight the eyes of the +readers of the 'Thunderer' some weeks afterwards. + +We had to buy a horse and buggy, as naturally enough no one would let +them out on hire for such an enterprise; besides, those were not days +when men let out anything on hire that they could not keep in sight. +However, we sent a man on before us, in company with the pilot, to a +station some miles from the frontier, whose business it was to bring the +trap back when we had done with it. We stowed in our haversacks a pair +of dry stockings, a good stock of tobacco, and a couple of bottles of +brandy, against the road; we also had passes to produce in the event of +questions being asked by the patrols on the Southern side of the +frontier. + +All being ready, we started, leaving Richmond at four o'clock in the +morning. We travelled on a long, dreary, dusty road all day, stopping +about noon for two hours at a free nigger's hut, where we got some yams +and milk, and about sunset arrived at the station above mentioned, at +which we were to dismiss our conveyance; and right glad we were to get +rid of it, for we were bumped to death by its dreadful oscillations. + +At this station our pilot was waiting for us. There were also +bivouacking here a picket of cavalry, who told us they had seen some of +the enemy's patrols that morning, scouring about on the opposite bank of +the river just where we proposed to land. Somehow or other, people +always seem to take a pleasure in telling you disagreeable things at a +time when you rather want encouragement than fear instilled into you. We +had some supper, consisting of eggs and bacon; and at nine o'clock, it +being then pitch dark, the pilot informed us it was time to start. I +must say I should have been more comfortable if I had been on the bridge +of my little craft, just starting over the bar at Wilmington, with the +probability of a broadside from a gun-boat saluting us in a very short +time, than where I was. But it would never do to think of going back, so +we crawled into the wood. + +Our land pilot informed us that the bank of the river, from whence we +should find a clear passage across, was about two miles distant. I never +remember seeing or feeling anything to be compared with the darkness of +that pine wood, but our guide seemed to have the eyes of a basilisk. We +formed Indian file, our guide leading, and crept along as best we could. +At last, after stealthily progressing for half an hour, a glimmer of +starlight through the trees showed us that we were getting to the +borders of the wood. + +A few minutes afterwards we were desired to lie down. Feeling helpless +as babes, we passively obeyed, and watched our guide as he moved about +like a spectre in the long grass on the banks of the Potomac, looking +for his canoe. At last he returned and whispered that the boat was all +right, and we all crept like serpents to where it was concealed. Nothing +could be heard but the wind blowing through the trees, and the +discordant noises of frogs and other denizens of the swamp. So dark was +the night that we could hardly see fifty yards across the river. I +suppose this was all in our favour; but how our guide knew the marks by +which to steer was a puzzle to me, and as I never meant to profit by +this experience I asked no questions. + +Not a word was spoken as we (myself and my friend) launched the canoe +silently into the water and seated ourselves, or rather obeyed orders +and lay down, the pilot sitting in the stern, with his face towards the +bows of the boat, having a light paddle in his hand, which he worked +wonderfully well and silently. The distance across the river was about +three miles. + +We shot ahead at a rapid pace for about five minutes, when suddenly, +bump went the canoe against something. To lie flat down was to our guide +the work of a second, and the canoe was at once transformed into a +floating log. + +Well it was so, for it seems we had struck a small boat that was +fastened astern of the gun-boat guarding the river. That the noise of +the collision had been heard on board was evident, for a sentry hailed, +'Boat ahoy!' and fired his musket, and one of those detestable bright +lights which the American men-of-war have a nasty habit of showing +flashed over the water, making everything visible for a hundred yards +round. The current of the river, however, was very strong, and I fancy +we had drifted out of the radius covered by the light, as we were +fortunately not discovered; or perhaps the diligent watchman on board +the man-of-war thought some huge crocodile or other monster had come in +contact with their boat. Be that as it may, we were safe, and twenty +minutes more paddling brought us to land on the opposite bank of the +river; but unfortunately our little adventure had thrown us out of our +line, or as we sailors should have called it, out of our course. We +hauled the canoe out of the water, and hid her in the long grass. All we +could see around us was a dismal swamp, with the dark wood in the +background. Our guide honestly told us that having been thrown out of +his 'reckoning' in regard to our position, to move from where we were +before daybreak would be madness, so we took a pull at the brandy +bottle, lighted our pipes and waited patiently, having moved well in +under cover of the long grass, so as to be out of sight of any vessel +lying in the river near to us. + +When the day dawned, our pilot after having reconnoitred told us that we +were very well placed for starting for Washington; but that it would be +impossible, on account of the patrols that were constantly watching the +river's banks, for us to move during the daytime, so we were doomed to +remain all day in the damp grass. Luckily we had put in our pockets at +last night's supper some black bread and an onion or two; so we made the +best of things, and so did the sandflies. How they did pitch into us, +especially into me! I suppose the good living I had been accustomed to +on board the blockade-runner, or my natural disposition to good +condition, made me taste sweet. Several times during that fearful day I +was tempted to rush out from my hiding-place, and defying patrols, +gun-boat's crew, and all authorities, make my escape from that place of +torture. + +Anyone who has experienced the necessity of remaining quiet under such +an infliction as an attack of millions of sandflies on a hot sunny day +will appreciate my feelings. About one o'clock we got as a diversion +from our tormentors a great fright. A boat's crew of a gun-boat lying +about a mile distant from our retreat landed, and out of sheer idleness +set fire to the grass about a hundred yards from where we were lying +concealed. + +We heard the crackling of the grass and thought of leaving our +concealment at the risk of discovery; but our guide wisely remarked that +the wind was the wrong way to bring the fire towards our hiding-place, +so we felt safe. The feeling of security was more pleasant, because we +distinctly heard the men belonging to the gun-boat conversing with +others, who clearly were patrols on the river's bank. + +The evening at last closed in, and as soon as it was quite dark we moved +on, and after struggling through a thick wood for half an hour, got on +the high road to Washington. We travelled by night, meeting occasional +patrols, whom we dodged by either lying down or getting behind trees +till they had passed. + +We concealed ourselves carefully during the day, and on the third +morning before daylight we were within half a mile of the city. As we +got near the bridge close outside Washington, we tried our best to look +like the rest of the people who were going on their ordinary business; +and though somewhat severely scrutinised by the guard we managed to pass +muster, and got safely into Washington, footsore, hungry, and regularly +done up. + +We went to a small inn that had been recommended to us when we were in +Richmond, where probably they had some Southern proclivities. No +questions were asked as to where we came from, though, I take it, the +people of the house had a shrewd guess. We found ourselves among friends +and perfectly safe from meddling inquiries. + +Thus the land blockade was run. I do not think much experience was +gained by this particularly unpleasant exploit, which after all there +was no very great difficulty in performing, and I certainly prefer my +own element. + +After a short stay we made our way easily to New York, not feeling any +anxiety from the fact of our being staunch Southerners in our opinions, +inasmuch as there were numbers of sympathising friends wherever we went, +more perhaps than the authorities were aware of. I stayed a few days in +New York to recruit my strength after the fatigue of the journey, and +saw all the sights and enjoyed all the pleasures of the most delightful +city in the world, except perhaps Paris and London. I shall not attempt +to give my readers any description of New York. This has already been +done by abler pens than mine. + +While in New York I was greatly struck with the calm confidence of the +bulk of the Northerners in the ultimate success of their arms against +the South. If I gained nothing else by running the land blockade, I at +least got an insight into the enormous resources possessed by the North, +and a knowledge of the unflinching determination with which the Federals +were prepared to carry on the struggle to the end. I must confess that I +left New York with my confidence that the Confederates would achieve +their independence very much shaken. + +Not being desirous of going through the risk and inconvenience of +running the land blockade again, I returned to Nassau by steamer from +New York. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +I ENTER THE TURKISH NAVY. + + +After superintending, as it were, the adventures just detailed, I found +that there was still a year to pass before my time for service as a +post-captain came on; so I determined on making a Continental tour to +fill up the space. After wandering about in different countries, I more +by accident than design visited Constantinople. + +While there, I called upon that great statesman Fuad Pasha, the Grand +Vizier of the Ottoman Empire, to whom I presented my letters of +introduction. He received me most cordially, and, during our +conversation, mentioned that for some years Turkey had had to deal with +a serious insurrection in the island of Crete, which it was found +difficult to suppress, owing to the assistance from without which the +revolutionary party received from Greece; also on account of the +somewhat doubtful laws existing as to blockade-running. For, although +Turkish men-of-war were continually on the look-out, vessels mostly +under the Greek flag, carrying warlike stores, provisions, &c., evaded +the watch of the cruisers on one pretext or another, and so managed to +keep a lively communication with the insurrectionary subjects of the +Sultan in Crete. Only one vessel had been captured _in flagrante +delicto_ after a sharp fight, and had been condemned as a lawful prize. + +The Turkish authorities were told that, according to international law, +a blockade-running vessel could not be followed more than ten miles from +the coast, though having been seen breaking the blockade, and that as +soon as a blockade-runner was within four miles of any island not +belonging to Turkey, she could not be touched, &c. &c.; in fact, laws +were _fabricated_ to defend the blockade-running, which fed the +revolution to such an extent that, while it continued, it was hopeless +to attempt to put down the revolt. + +I accidentally hinted to His Highness, Fuad Pasha, that I thought the +blockade-running could be put a stop to without infringing any law, +especially where laws were so elastic. He seemed much struck with my +remark, and asked me to call on him again in a few days. Now I had +merely mentioned casually what I thought. I had no idea of anything +serious resulting from our interview. I was indeed surprised on my +return to His Highness by his saying: 'I have consulted His Majesty the +Sultan, who desires me to tell you that if you would wish to take +service with the Ottoman Government, arrangements can be made whereby +you can do so, only you must take the risk and responsibility of +offending your own people.' + +I had to consider a little before replying. I bore in mind that there +were some two hundred and fifty post-captains in the English navy +clamouring for employment, and that there were at the moment I speak of +only about forty employed. I remembered that for twenty-four years an +English officer of the same rank as myself had held the post now offered +to me, namely, that of Naval Adviser to the Turkish Government, that the +post was just vacant through the retirement of Sir Adolphus Slade (who +had served honourably for twenty years, and had retired from old age). I +calculated in those days of profound peace there was more probability of +active service in the Eastern world than elsewhere. So I answered: +'Well, your Highness, I am ready if the terms offered me are +satisfactory.' + +I may say they proved most satisfactory; so, to make a long story +short, I accepted and was booked as a Turkish employé for five years, +always retaining my rank and position as an English naval officer, and +my nationality as a British subject. + +I found afterwards, as regards my position as an English naval officer, +I had somewhat reckoned without my host. It seems that this post was +considered by the English Admiralty as one of their choice gifts, and +many were the applicants for it on Sir A. Slade's retirement, so much so +that their lordships made great capital of this appointment, and were +furious at my action in the matter. They said I had 'cut out' a good old +servant to whom they had intended to give it. They suggested my coming +home at once, &c. &c. I didn't see it in the same light as their +lordships, and I signified my determination to remain where I was; for +which, as will be seen, they paid me off in course of time. Luckily, I +could afford by the arrangement I had made with the Turkish Government +to be in the Admiralty's bad books, and even the frowns of the English +Ambassador did not affect me a bit. I believe they called me +'adventurer,' 'artful dodger,' &c., but it must be remembered that I was +in every way as much entitled to this position as the Admiralty 'pet,' +whoever he may have been. + +From the day of signing my contract (which has been constantly renewed) +to the time I write, some sixteen years, I never have had cause to +regret the step I took. + +Shortly after my installation as vice-admiral in the Turkish navy, it +was decided that I should be sent to Crete to put a stop to the +blockade-running. 'Set a thief to catch a thief,' as one of my, what may +be called, unfriendly critics has written about me, and the remark was +_ben trovato_ at all events, for I certainly did know something about +blockade-running. + +I accordingly hoisted my flag in a fine fifty-gun wooden frigate, and +arrived at Suda Bay, the principal port of Crete, where six or seven +Turkish men-of-war were stationed, of which I took command. Here I heard +all the naval officers had to say about the blockade, the impunity with +which it was carried on, &c. I found, as I before mentioned, that the +Turkish naval officers' hands were tied by all sorts of imaginary +difficulties. They had most zealously done their duty while trying to +stop the blockade-running. They had shown great pluck and endurance, but +they always feared to break the law and so get the ever-bullied Turkish +Government into trouble. Here I also heard of the triumphant manner in +which the blockade-runners left the ports of Greece. How the Mayors of +Syra, Poros, and other Greek towns, conducted, with flags flying, bands +playing, and the hurrahs of the entire population, the hitherto +triumphant blockade-running captains and crews to their ships, on the +way to feed the flame of revolt against a nation with whom the Greeks +professed to be on most friendly terms. + +I heard all this, and was moreover told that if the blockade-running was +stopped, the insurgents in Crete would at once lay down their arms for +want of food and warlike stores. + +I determined to stop it at all risks. + +Picking out of my squadron a couple of fast despatch boats and a quick +steaming corvette to accompany my flag-ship, I started on a cruise, and +once out of sight of the harbour of Suda, steamed straight for Syra. Now +this port had been the principal delinquent in fitting out and sending +blockade-runners to Crete; so I thought that by going as it were to the +starting-point, I should be somewhat nearer to my quarry than by waiting +for them in Crete. Circumstances favoured me in the most marvellous +manner. As morning broke the day after I left Suda, I was about eight +miles from Syra harbour, steaming slowly, when I saw what made my heart +leap into my mouth, viz., a regular blockade-runner exactly of the type +used in the American war, going at full speed for Syra harbour. + +He was _outside_ my little squadron, and must pass within a mile or so +ahead to get to his port. + +A somewhat similar position I have so often seen, in fact, taken part +in, of a craft running for dear life into Charleston or Wilmington, +across the bows of blockading ships just at daylight. I saw that he was +firing up all he knew, and was going at a tremendous speed. I signalled +to my despatch boats to chase, and when my flag-ship was within about a +mile and a half I fired a blank gun to make him show his colours. To +this he replied by firing his long Armstrong gun with such effect that +the shot cut away the stanchion of the bridge on which I was standing. +Now, gallant fellow as he was, in doing this he was wrong; he should +have shown his colours and run (if he knew he wasn't honest) for the +shelter of a neutral flag, but not fired at a man-of-war, who in her +duty as forming part of the police of the seas fires a blank gun asking +for colours from a suspicious vessel. He undoubtedly committed an act of +piracy and gave me a splendid hold on him. + +My despatch boats chased the blockade-runner close to Syra harbour, both +parties keeping up a warm running fight. When I recalled them, I found +that this vessel was named the 'Enossis.' Her captain was a most +courageous Greek, who thought of nothing but carrying his cargo and +fighting to the last for his ship, evidently ignoring all laws, nor did +he even think that on this occasion someone was acting against him who +knew something of the rules of blockade, and who could have told him +that an armed blockade-runner is a pirate, that is to say, if she uses +her arms against a man-of-war. + +I was so satisfied with what had occurred that I sent off one of my +despatch boats to the Governor of Crete, telling him that he need not +fear the blockade-runners any more, as they (the two others were lying +in Syra harbour) had put themselves in so false a position that at all +events for several weeks I could detain them at Syra. I knew that one +week would suffice to stop the revolt in Crete, as without the +blockade-runners the insurrectionists had positively nothing to eat. + +(I may as well at once observe that I was perfectly justified in saying +this, for within three days, no blockade-runner arriving at the island, +the insurgents laid down their arms and _begged for bread_. And so ended +the Cretan revolt.) + +Having recalled the vessels I had sent to chase the 'Enossis' into Syra +harbour, I steamed in the roads off that port, and anchored with three +vessels. + +I then sent to the authorities on shore at Syra, and demanded their +assistance in arresting a vessel that had taken shelter in their port, +which, as I stated in my despatch, had committed an act of piracy on the +high seas, by firing at my flagship when the latter called upon her to +show her colours by firing a blank gun. At the same time I informed the +authorities of Syra that, as the companions of the 'Enossis' were in the +harbour, I should allow none of them to go to sea until the question of +that vessel's illegal action was cleared up. By doing this I took the +wind out of the sails of the authorities of Syra. They of course were +furious, and at once despatched a vessel to Athens for orders. At the +same time they made a semblance of meeting my demand by stating that the +'Enossis' should be tried by international law. They also requested me +to make my protest and to leave Syra, as the populace were in a state of +excitement beyond their power of control. In this request all the +Foreign Consuls joined. + +I positively declined to leave; had I consented I am convinced the +'Enossis' and her companions would have left for Crete as soon as I was +out of sight. In the meantime I sent a despatch boat to Smyrna with +telegrams for Constantinople asking for assistance, stating my +position. I remained off Syra with two ships, one being a despatch boat, +watching the movements of the three blockade-runners, to whom I notified +that I would sink them if they attempted to leave the port. + +I often wonder they didn't make a rush for it on the first night of my +arrival, when I was almost alone. The Greeks never want pluck. If they +had done so, one vessel out of the three would certainly have escaped, +taken food to the insurgents, and capsized all my calculations. + +It merely corroborated my view of blockade-running peoples, namely, that +they go for gain (some perhaps for love of enterprise); don't fight +unless very hard pressed, and not always then if they are wise; that is +what it should be. It is outrageous that adventurous persons not engaged +in war should become belligerents, as well as carriers of arms and +provisions to an enemy. + +The first night I passed off Syra was one of great anxiety, as I had +promised the Governor of Crete that no blockade-runner should go to the +island. + +In the morning a small steamer arrived from Athens with a Turkish +official on board. He came to me pale as a sheet, and told me that as he +left the Piræus a Greek frigate was on the point of leaving for Syra, +whose captain, officers, and crew had sworn to bring back Hobart Pasha +dead or alive. Half an hour afterwards I got under weigh, and as I +steamed about in the offing I saw the Greek frigate coming round the +point. + +It was a moment of intense excitement. The tops of the houses at Syra +were covered with people. It looked like the old story of the +'Chesapeake' and 'Shannon,' where the people turned out to see the fine +sport, and the band played, 'Yankee doodle dandy, oh!' + +However, I steamed towards my supposed enemy, went almost alongside of +him, expecting momentarily to receive his broadside, when to my +astonishment and I must say satisfaction he steamed into the anchorage, +and let go three anchors. This didn't look like fighting. I found +afterwards that the Greek frigate had _no powder_ on board. It was a +shame to put her captain in so false a position, as everyone knows what +gallant stuff the Greeks are made of, and swagger is a mistake where +real pluck exists. + +I felt for him very much, as he seemed so sorry for himself. + +A few days after this I was reinforced by six or seven Turkish +ironclads, and in fact commanded the position in spite of all +remonstrances on the part of foreigners and other declared enemies of +Turkish rule. + +We went through the laughable farce of a trial of the 'Enossis' on board +a vessel lying in port (I dare not land), which of course ended in +nothing. + +The Governor-General of Crete sent all the insurgents in Turkish ships +to me to deal with, and this was the most difficult thing I had to do. +Poor beggars, they were fine though misguided men. After giving them a +good feed, for they were terribly hungry, I distributed them among the +neighbouring Greek islands, and so finished the affair. + +There are those who say that my acts off Syra were illegal, especially +as to stopping the 'Enossis's' companions from leaving the port. All I +can say is, the Greeks _en masse_, from the Government downwards, had +paid so little regard to international law during three years, as +regards their action in encouraging revolution in the territory of a +friendly country, that a little stretch of the law on my part was quite +justifiable. + +While on the subject of Crete, which is always supposed to be in a +chronic state of revolt, I would say a few words. + +I maintain that the Cretan people, of whom I know a good deal, _do not +want an alliance_ with Greece, and if the always over-excited ambitious +Greek committees would only keep quiet and give up agitation, the +Cretans would be the happiest community in the Mediterranean. + +While I commanded for more than a year a large squadron of Turkish +ironclads stationed in Crete, I had many opportunities of judging as to +the sentiments of the Cretans. + +I never saw a more orderly, well-disposed people if let alone by +agitators. + +On my return to Constantinople the reception I received from several of +the European Powers was most gratifying. + +I received high honours in the shape of decorations, for having as they +said by my conduct prevented a European war. My own country alone stood +aloof from me. The Admiralty went so far as to tell me that if I did not +immediately return to England, my name would be erased from the list of +naval officers. An officer of high rank, a member of the Board of +Admiralty, wrote to me a semi-official letter, in which he said, 'Unless +you leave the Turkish service, you will be scratched off the list.' +Feeling exceedingly hurt at such treatment, at a moment when I expected +encouragement for having maintained the honour of my country while +acting as a naval officer should have done, I wrote to him, 'You may +scratch and be d----d.' This letter was, I think, very unfairly quoted +against me some time afterwards in the House of Commons. However, my +name was erased from the list of naval officers, and was not replaced +there for several years. I was well and kindly received by His Majesty +the Sultan, promoted to the rank of full admiral, and settled down to my +work as a Turkish naval officer, head of the staff of the Imperial Navy. + +It becomes a most delicate task to continue sketches of my life during +the latter time that I have been in Turkey, because such anecdotes +strike nearer home, that is to say, become more what may be called +personal as regards my public and private doings. However, I will +endeavour, somewhat briefly perhaps, to do so in a way that may be +interesting to my readers, and offensive to no one. + +It is not difficult to serve such masters as the Turks; they are always +kind and considerate to strangers in their service, and if one avoids +offending them in certain matters on which they are supposed to have +prejudices, and if one while giving advice avoids offensive censure, it +is easy to get on. While serving in Turkey my principal business has +been relating to naval matters, regarding which I have had to propose +certain progressive changes such as are being constantly introduced into +foreign navies, more especially the English. These changes proposed by +me have generally been accepted, and I can but think that many +beneficial alterations have been introduced into the Turkish Navy +tending to improve that service. + +His Majesty the Sultan has named me one of his special A.D.C.'s, and in +that capacity I have had at times and still have important duties. + +His Majesty always treats me with the greatest kindness and +consideration, and I have a sincere respect and affection for him, both +as a sovereign, and, if I may presume to say so, as a friend. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +THE WAR WITH RUSSIA. + + +In 1877 the war with Russia broke out, and through the absence of any +powerful naval enemy, little in the way of hard fighting was done; still +some very important service was performed by the Turkish fleet, much +more so than is generally known. + +In the first place we had to hold the Black Sea, with its extensive +sea-board. We defended Sulina and Batoum against Russian attack by land, +and by torpedo on the sea. We had to watch the little swift packet-boats +equipped as men-of-war, which constantly made a rush from Sebastopol and +Odessa (as they did, by the way, in the Crimean War, when twenty to +thirty English and French ships were watching them), and when they could +get a chance burnt some unfortunate little coasting craft, sending the +crews of such vessels adrift in small boats to make the best of their +way to the nearest land. In addition to the above-named services, the +Turkish fleet was called upon constantly to transport large bodies of +troops from port to port. + +On one memorable occasion the Turkish men-of-war and transports conveyed +the whole of Suleiman Pasha's army, consisting of forty thousand men, +from the coast of Albania to Salonica, a distance of some eight hundred +miles, within the short space of twelve days, a feat, I venture to say, +unheard of in the naval annals of this century. Sulina was held safely +by the Turkish fleet until the end of the war. + +Batoum could not have been held by Dervish Pasha and his army had not +the Turkish fleet been there to help him. In short, that fleet kept the +command of the Black Sea during the whole of that disastrous war, +cruising at times in the most fearful weather I have ever experienced, +for twelve months in a sea almost without ports of refuge; and it is a +remarkable fact that the Turks never lost a ship, constantly attacked +though they were, as I shall show hereafter, by the plucky Russian +torpedo boats, who frequently made rushes at them from Muscovite ports, +and only saved from destruction through the precautions taken against +these diabolical machines, which come and go like flashes of lightning. +It is true that _in the Danube_ two small Turkish vessels of war were +destroyed by torpedoes, but it must be borne in mind the Danube was +under _military_ law, and that the look-out kept on board these vessels +was not by any means what it should have been. + +But I must repeat, as so many contrary reports have been spread, that no +Turkish ironclad was injured by torpedoes in the Black Sea. + +I will explain hereafter how many attacks were made with no result +whatever. Some few days before the war broke out I was sent to examine +the Danube from a professional point of view, and it was soon made clear +to me that much could be done, in the way of defending that great +estuary, had nautical experience and the splendid material of which the +Turkish sailor is made of been properly utilised. But alas! I found +that, contrary to the views of His Majesty the Sultan, a line of action +was followed showing that pig-headed obstinacy and the grossest +ignorance prevailed in the councils of those who had supreme command in +that river. I found that my advice and that of competent Turkish +officers, in comparatively subordinate positions like myself, was +entirely ignored, and that few, if any, proper steps were taken to +prevent the enemy's progress into Roumania, and later on, to his +passing the Danube almost unopposed. + +On the day that war was declared I was at Rustchuk, the headquarters of +the Turkish army. On that occasion I made a final effort, by making +propositions which events have proved would have arrested the advance of +the enemy. + +I was simply told to mind my own business, and ordered to immediately +rejoin my ships, which were at the moment lying at the Sulina mouth of +the Danube. + +It was all very well to tell me to do this; but to do so was apparently +not so easy of execution, for the reason that the Russians had no sooner +declared war than they took possession of the Lower Danube, by planting +fortifications on the hills commanding the river in the neighbourhood of +Galatz and Ibraila, at the same time laying down torpedoes across the +river in great quantities (as regards the latter, it was so reported, +though in my opinion it was no easy matter so quickly to place +torpedoes). I informed the military commanders of this; their answer +was, 'Go, and rejoin your ships _viâ_ Varna, if you will only get out of +this; we don't want your advice.' By this time, however, my professional +pride was wounded, and I determined to do something to show my contempt +for them all. + +The only thing left for me to do for the moment was a little +blockade-running, so I resolved to bring my ship back past the Russian +barrier in the Lower Danube at all risks, instead of tamely returning by +land. So great was the jealousy against me that I almost think the +Turkish authorities commanding in the Danube would have been pleased if +I had failed, and so come to grief. I had with me a very fast +paddle-steamer called the 'Rethymo'; her captain and crew were what the +Turks always are--brave as lions and obedient as lambs. + +I took on board a river pilot, whom I gave to understand that if he got +me on shore I would blow his brains out. Before starting I sent for my +officers and crew and told them of the perhaps unnecessary dangers we +should run in passing the Russian barrier, and gave to all the option of +leaving or going on. They decided to a man to go on. I arranged my time +so as to pass Ibraila and Galatz during the night. We arrived to within +thirty miles of the former place at about five o'clock in the evening, +when I was met by a Turkish official who was leaving Ibraila on the war +having broken out. He was fearfully excited, and begged of me on his +knees not to go to what he called certain destruction. He told me that +he had seen the Russians laying down torpedoes that same day, that the +batteries were numerous, and that they were aware of my coming, &c., all +of which I took with a considerably large grain of salt, and left him +lamenting my mad folly, as he called it. + +Now I must be candid. I did not _feel_ the danger. I calculated that to +put down torpedoes in a current such as was in the Danube would be a +matter of time, and probably they would not succeed after all. I had a +plan in my head for passing the batteries, so as to render them +harmless. So in reality I was about to attempt no very impossible feat. +Three hours after dusk we sighted the lights of Ibraila. The current was +running quite five knots an hour; that, added to our speed of fifteen, +made us to be going over the ground at about twenty knots. It was pitch +dark, and I think it would have puzzled the cleverest gunner to have hit +us, though they might have done so by chance. I determined not to give +them that chance, by going so close under the bank that the guns could +hardly be sufficiently depressed to hit us. + +As we approached the batteries to my horror a flash of red flame came +out of the funnel (that fatal danger in blockade-running), on which +several rockets were thrown up from the shore, and a fire was opened at +where the flame had been seen. Meanwhile we had shot far away from the +place, and closed right under the batteries. I heard the people talking; +every now and then they fired shot and musketry, but I hardly heard the +_whiz_ of the projectiles. My principal anxiety was that we might get on +one of the many banks so common in the Danube, and I had perhaps a +_little_ fear of torpedoes, especially when we passed the mouths of the +little estuaries that run into the Danube; once we just touched the +ground, but thank goodness we quickly got free, and though fired at by +guns and rifles, went on unhurt. It took us exactly an hour and forty +minutes to pass dangerous waters, and the early summer morning was +breaking as we cleared all danger. I could not resist turning round and +firing a random shot at the banks studded with Russian tents, _now that +I was able to breathe freely again_. + +I must say that my pilot, whom I at first suspected of being a traitor +in Russian pay, behaved splendidly. + +He told me he had never passed such a night of fear and anxiety: what +with my cocked pistol at his head and the constant fear of putting the +vessel on a bank, he certainly had had a bad time. However, I rewarded +him well. On arrival at Toultcha, a small town near the mouth of the +Danube, still held by the Turks, I found telegrams from headquarters at +Rustchuk (the place I had left), inquiring if Hobart Pasha had passed +Ibraila and Galatz, and ordering that if he had done so he was +immediately to leave the Danube. + +I cannot express my annoyance, as even at that moment I could have +brought a couple of small iron-clads that were lying at Sulina into the +river and played 'old Harry' with the Russian army, then advancing into +Roumania, _viâ_ Galatz. The bridge near Galatz could certainly have been +destroyed. It was hard on the gallant Turks, hard on the Sultan and his +government, and hard on me, to see such magnificent chances thrown away. +From that moment I trembled for the result of the war. I felt that, +although the Turks had a splendid army, and a fleet even for a +first-class European Power to be proud of, the obstinacy and stupidity +of the commanders of the Danube were sure to cause disaster. + +Unhappily my prognostications came true. In war the first blow is half +the battle, and it was sad to see such glorious troops out-manoeuvred at +the very outset. His Majesty the Sultan in his wisdom has justly +punished by banishment and disgrace these men who, instead of covering +the Turkish nation with glory through the deeds of its army, were the +cause of the defeat of the finest troops in the world. That the +Russians might and would have been beaten, had the means in the hands of +those commanding the Turkish army being properly utilised, is as clear +as day. However, it is not my business to comment on such matters. + +I now return to my own element, and will endeavour to describe some of +the occurrences of the war in the Black Sea. The Russians had three +lines of action in those waters. First, to capture Sulina, and to +destroy the squadron lying at anchor in its roadstead; second, to +capture Batoum and its much-envied harbour; third, the somewhat +undignified action of sending out fast vessels, mostly mail-boats, armed +with a couple of guns, their object being to destroy the Turkish +coasting trade. These vessels were most difficult to catch, as they +always watched their opportunity to slip out of their strongholds when +the Turkish ships were employed carrying troops, or otherwise engaged. +There was, I venture to think, some illegality in this conduct of the +Russian mail-boats. + +These vessels were not regular men-of-war, and they did not take their +prizes into port for adjudication, as is usual in war, always burning +what they could catch and capture. However, during war I suppose all +must be considered as fair play. While on the subject, I will recount +one or two exploits performed by these enterprising mail-boats. When +lying off Sulina, one of the ironclad corvettes under my command arrived +from Constantinople, where her captain reported having chased a +well-known Russian mail-steamer called the 'Vesta'; that they had +exchanged a few shots, that he had not followed her because his deck was +loaded with guns for the Sulina batteries. I thought no more about it +till about a fortnight afterwards I saw in the 'Times' a paragraph +headed, 'Turkish ironclad driven off and nearly destroyed by the Russian +mail-boat cruiser "Vesta."' This paragraph, which was founded on the +official report of the captain of the 'Vesta,' was most sensational. It +gave a graphic description of how the 'Vesta' had engaged at close +quarters a Turkish ironclad, killing her crew; how officers in European +uniform had been seen directing the working of the ironclad's guns, &c.; +how her sides were crimson with the torrents of blood pouring from her +decks, and how she would have been surely captured had the 'Vesta' been +provided with sufficient ammunition to enable her to continue the bloody +fight. It added that the gallant Russian commander was received with the +greatest enthusiasm on his arriving at Sebastopol, and immediately +promoted to high rank and covered with decorations. + +I could hardly believe my eyes when I read this utter nonsense. I know +the Russians; they are brave and loyal fellows, and few indeed are there +among them who have done (to say the least of it) so foolish an act as +to make so unfounded a report. + +However, the commander, whose name I will not mention, did not long wear +his laurels. I suppose he trusted to the Turks saying nothing about it; +but the truth was at last made public. A court-martial was assembled to +try the case, and I believe he was dismissed from the service and +deprived of his decorations. At all events I know for certain that he +was disgraced by his superiors, and held up to ridicule by his brother +officers. Serve him right! Swagger is always an error, and I don't think +naval officers are generally given to it. + +The next exploit of these cruisers I shall refer to was one that came +under my own eyes, and was exceedingly interesting. + +I was anchored with my flag-ship, a fine thirteen knot ironclad, and a +couple of other vessels, at a port some few miles to the north of Varna, +taking in coals, when the look-out man reported that he saw on the +horizon a column of smoke. I knew that this was not a Russian cruiser, +because these vessels always burnt smokeless coal. I guessed, however, +what it was, namely, that one of the Russian cruisers was burning an +unfortunate coasting vessel. On looking more closely from the mast-head +of the flag-ship, I saw the masts and two funnels of a steamer very near +to the burning ship. The cruiser was somewhat in shore of the place +where I was lying. He seems to have made my squadron out about the same +time I had seen him, and at once made tracks, as the Americans say, to +get out to sea. In doing so he had to near us considerably, so much so +that before steam was ready in the flag-ship I could pretty well discern +what the enemy was. Some persons may be surprised to hear that the +marauding vessel was no less a craft than the magnificent yacht of the +Emperor of All the Russias, called the 'Livadia,' which had condescended +to the somewhat undignified work of capturing small Turkish coasting +craft. Who can fancy the 'Victoria and Albert' being sent to sea, during +a war between England and France, to capture and destroy small coasting +craft on the French shores! However, there was the fact; it was the +'Livadia,' and no mistake. And now commenced one of the most interesting +chases I have ever seen. On our starting the yacht was about four miles +ahead of us, steering a course that would take her straight to +Sebastopol. She had got through all the necessary dangerous manoeuvres of +crossing our bows, from her having been inshore of us, before we moved. + +The weather was lovely, not a ripple on the water, dead calm. + +We commenced the chase at 4.30 p.m. Unfortunately our decks were loaded +with coal; however, we made a clean thirteen knots. At first it seemed +as if we were coming up with the chase, so much so that I felt inclined +to fire the long bow gun at her. But I always think and I say from +blockade-running experience that firing more or less injures a vessel's +speed; so I refrained from doing so. As night closed in a beautiful moon +rose and made everything as clear as day. The equality of our speed was +most remarkable, inasmuch as the distance between us did not vary a +hundred yards in an hour. All night we were watching, measuring +distances with nautical instruments, &c., hoping at moments that we were +nearer, despairing at others that she was gaining from us. We threw +overboard fifty or sixty tons of coal, to no avail; we could not get +within shot of the 'Livadia,' to capture which I would have given all I +possessed. As day broke we saw the crew of the 'Livadia' busily employed +throwing overboard coal and water. Sebastopol was in sight, and she was +running for dear life to that haven of safety. Lightening her had +certainly a good effect, for it was sadly evident to me that on doing so +she drew ahead a little, but very little. Now I hoped she would burst +her boiler or break down ever so little; but so it was not fated, and +the Emperor's yacht escaped by the skin of her teeth into Sebastopol, +under the protection of batteries that opened a tremendous fire on my +ship on my approaching, forgetful of their existence. I was obliged to +clear out of that pretty sharply or we should have been sunk. + +An ironclad corvette that accompanied me, though some miles astern at +the finish, ran so close in that she had her rudder shot away, and we +had the unpleasant task of towing her out under a fire more like a +hailstorm of shot and shell than anything I can compare it to. I am told +the 'Livadia' would have shown fight. I have no doubt she would; +Russians always fight well: but I think the result would not have been +doubtful, and the Emperor's crockery and glass, to say nothing of the +magnificent gettings-up in the cabins, would have lost much of their +lustre during an engagement. So the glory of taking the Emperor's yacht +into the Bosphorus was not to be mine. I cannot express my +disappointment at losing such a chance. The only consolation I have is +that I really believe the brave Russians would have blown her up, rather +than allow such a disgrace to fall on their flag. + +Since the war a Russian naval officer told me that he had under his +command at Sebastopol, on the day of my chasing the 'Livadia' into that +port, seven torpedo boats, with which he volunteered to go out and +attack us. His request was not allowed. We discussed at some length the +probable result. These are my views and arguments. I said to him, 'When +I saw your boats coming out I should have steamed away. Now the speed of +my frigate is thirteen knots. You would probably have had a speed of +nineteen to twenty at most. Thus your rate of approaching me would have +been six knots, no great speed with which to approach a vessel armed +with Nordenfelt guns, and six other guns also, _en barbette_, firing +grape, shell, &c. I am convinced we should have destroyed all the +torpedo boats.' 'Well, then,' said the Russian officer, 'I should have +followed and attacked you during the night.' 'There again,' I said, 'I +think you would have failed, because before dark you could not have got +near enough to me, on account of the opposition you would have met with +from my fire, to remark the course I steered after sunset, which course +I should have frequently changed during the darkness. A ship cannot be +seen in the dark if she shows no light at more than five hundred yards' +distance, and a moving ship would have been most difficult to hit; +besides which, if I had stopped and put down my defences, what could you +have done?' This discussion ended in the Russian officer admitting that +he did not think he could have done much. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +THE TURKISH FLEET DURING THE WAR. + + +To return to the doings of the Turkish fleet in the Black Sea during the +war, Sulina was a point from the beginning always aimed at by the +Russians. In fact, according to my humble ideas, Russia went to war to +get possession of Bessarabia, the key of the Danube, and Batoum, the key +to Asia Minor, and in a great measure to our Indian possessions. I think +the sentimental story of massacres in Bulgaria was merely a blind +whereby to catch the sympathetic support of Europe, and more especially +the English philanthropists. I think this, because when the most awful +cruelties were committed by the Bulgarians on the Turks _after_ the war, +we heard no outcry about massacres. However, I must not introduce +politics into Sketches from a sailor's life; such would be out of place. +Constant attacks were made by land and by sea on Sulina, which was held +and defended by Turkish ships and their crews, who manned the small +batteries they had planted at the mouth of the river. To the Russians, +to destroy the Turkish squadron lying off that port was of great +importance, as Sulina is entirely surrounded by water and great +impassable marshes, which extend far inland, through which marshes the +Danube runs, and thus can always be defended by ships. + +The Turkish squadron generally consisted of five or six ironclads, and +as the Russians had not ships wherewith to attack these ironclads, +torpedo attacks (of which so much was and is expected) was their only +chance. + +My idea of defending these vessels when at anchor was by a cordon of +guard-boats, with ropes made fast between them, so as to catch any +attacking torpedo boat, either by fouling her screw as she advanced, or +by stopping entirely her progress. Moreover, a torpedo boat thus stopped +would, by catching the rope, draw the guard-boat on either side of her, +or right on top of her. I must admit that while torpedoes at that time +were supposed to be in their infancy, the defence prepared against their +attack was also very much in its infancy, so these preparations were of +the most primitive description. + +The squadron, as I said, consisted of five vessels, which had been in +the habit of standing out to sea every night, to avoid torpedo attacks. +On the occasion I am writing about, they had returned to the anchorage +on account of bad weather. A Russian steamer with five torpedo boats in +tow started (as we afterwards learnt) from Odessa to hunt for the +Turkish squadron, which, it was known to them through their spies, was +in the habit of cruising off Serpent's Island, about eight miles from +Odessa. The Muscovites were unable to find their enemy, and I don't +wonder at it, for they were not in their usual cruising ground; even had +they been there, to find them would have been difficult, as the Turkish +ships always cruised in open order, burnt smokeless coal, and showed no +lights. On being disappointed in finding what she wanted at sea, the +Russian vessel steamed towards the anchorage off Sulina. As the weather +was bad, her commander decided not to attack, and I fancy had to cast +off his torpedo boats. + +One of these boats, if not more (I have never been able to ascertain +precisely what happened to the five torpedo boats that left Odessa), +made a dash at the Turkish squadron; the weather not permitting him to +use his Whitehead, he decided to try what his pole torpedo would do. As +he approached the head-most vessel, he found (as he explained afterwards +to me) that _something_ stopped his way, and he saw at the same time +several black objects approaching him. Nothing daunted, he struggled to +get close to the bows of the ironclad; when he got as near as he could +manage he fired his torpedo, without, however, doing any harm to his +enemy. Scarcely had he done this when he found himself in the water and +his boat gone from under him: the real facts being that the black +objects he had seen were the guard-boats, which were closing on him, the +ropes that connected them together having fouled his screw, and caused +the disaster; his boat was capsized and went to the bottom. Four or five +of her crew were drowned, as he would have been, had he not been fished +out of the water by the Turkish guard-boats, and made prisoner. + +The name of this daring naval officer was Putskin. His cool courage was +very amusing. When interrogated, while still in a half-drowned +condition, he exclaimed in excellent English, 'Why the devil didn't I +blow that ship up?' He was asked if he had any idea what stopped him, +and it was suggested to him that something must have fouled his screw. +He answered, 'I don't know what stopped me, but why the devil didn't I +blow the ship up?' I told him that I had a sort of notion he might be +hanged for using such a fearful weapon. He said, 'No brave man would +hang me; but why,' &c. + +He seemed to have only one idea, and that was he was a fool for having +failed. He was too good a man to let go, so we kept him till nearly the +end of the war. + +Wherever he may be now he is a fine fellow, whose bravery I for one +shan't forget in a hurry. + +A short time after the above-named occurrence the Russians attempted an +attack upon Sulina by land and water, with what object I have never been +able to understand; as, if they had succeeded, they could not have held +it so long as our ships were anchored in the offing. Perhaps their +intention was, by driving us out of the river, to utilise its position +for torpedo attacks. + +I have explained that Sulina was surrounded by sea and vast marshes. +Along the seashore there was a narrow causeway of sand, on which ten men +could march abreast. The only other approaches were by sea and by the +river, the latter, at about ten miles distance, being in the hands of +the Russians. As a defence we had placed on the beach, at about a +gun-shot's distance, several torpedoes, buried in the sand, and +connected by electric wires with the batteries of Sulina. A simultaneous +movement was made by three or four Russian gun-boats descending the +river, and two regiments of troops accompanied by artillery were sent +along the causeway. Suspecting something in regard to torpedoes, they +drove before them as a sort of advance guard about two hundred and fifty +horses without riders, it being the duty of the poor animals to take the +shock of the explosion should torpedoes be placed on the beach. And so +they did, for, on the horses passing the spot where the torpedoes were +placed, an explosion took place through which several horses were +killed. The rest turned right back, and the causeway being very narrow, +dashed amongst the advancing troops, causing the greatest confusion, so +much so that the whole party had to retreat and we saw them no more. + +It is true that one of the small ironclads had about got the range of +the advancing enemy along the sea-beach, so making their position rather +precarious, but I believe that the real cause of the failure was the +action of the horses. + +In the meantime, the light draft Russian gun-boats came down the river, +and began to fire shell and shot at a long range at the small town and +fortifications of Sulina. This was answered by the temporary batteries +alone, the ships being out of range. Desultory fighting went on for +about twenty-four hours, when the Russians, finding the hopelessness of +the enterprise, especially now that the troops had retired, gave it up +as a bad job and steamed up the Danube again. This was the only serious +attack made upon Sulina, which Russia could never have taken and held +till she had destroyed the Turkish fleet. After this I went to Batoum, +which place Dervish Pasha was gallantly holding against Russia. He was +sadly in want of naval help, as the Russians had advanced by the +sea-shore to within six miles of that much-coveted port. On arriving +there I took the command of eight Turkish ships of war, besides +transports that were constantly coming and going between Constantinople +and Batoum with provisions, ammunition, &c., for the army and navy. +Here, again, if the Russians could have disposed of the Turkish fleet +they would have easily taken Batoum. By commanding the sea, even with a +couple of vessels, they would have prevented supplies being sent. It +must be remembered there was no way of supporting the soldiers and +sailors except by sea. My first object was to drive the Russians, by the +fire of the ships, more inland. This was easy enough, as of course the +enemy had no guns with them to compare in range with those on board the +ironclads. Some time after my arrival, however, they brought down two +fifteen centimètre Krupp guns from Ardahan, guns that had a considerably +longer range than our twelve-ton Armstrongs. They gave us some trouble; +however, the position of the attacking camp was changed so as to be out +of range of our guns, a move in every way satisfactory to the Turkish +military commander. This action of our fleet gave great annoyance to the +enemy, and it was determined if possible to make our lying at Batoum a +dangerous if not impossible matter. This was to be done by the so-called +almighty torpedo. I received notice from our secret agent at Sebastopol +that a serious expedition was being organised, that the Turkish ships at +Batoum were to be destroyed or _frightened away_ at any cost. +_Frightened away, indeed!_ To the uninitiated a torpedo is a thing to +frighten any one away. We had heard of magnificent results of torpedo +trials in peace, how ships (I fancy only hulks) had been blown up, +columns of water half a mile high being sent into the air, &c. Nothing, +it was said, could save you. Whatever my ideas, however nervous I may +have felt, I knew that those I was commanding had no fear--they don't +know what it means, the more especially of a not understood possible +casualty, and though more enlightened as to torpedoes and their accepted +effects, I wasn't to show my people a bad example. When lying in bed in +the middle of the night, having read the warning letter before retiring, +I thought:--'Suppose one of these nasty things goes off and blows the +flagship up at this moment. How pleasant! What cowardly things these +are; no fair fight, up you go, unshriven. I have heard that a man who is +hanged is likely to go to heaven; I wonder if the same chance would be +given to him blown up by a torpedo?' These sort of feelings came over +me. However, said I, 'Let us see if we can prevent their being +realised;' so I went to work to try to do so. As a sportsman I +calculated that to fire at a dark object in the night, especially when +that object had a background of high hills such as we had at Batoum, was +most difficult, so the first order I gave was no lights, not even a +cigarette light; utter darkness under severe penalties. Next, +considering that Batoum is a very small port, with an entrance difficult +to find even in broad daylight, almost impossible in the night without +the lighthouse as a guide, I ordered that the lighthouse should not be +lighted. Then I arranged with the shore authorities that no lights +should be seen in the town; this was more difficult, as there were many +Russian friendlies in Batoum. + +However, the application of somewhat severe discipline made Batoum like +a city of the dead after dark. + +In addition to these precautions I put a barrier of booms ahead of the +ships lying in the port, placed guard-boats to watch it at the entrance +of the harbour, and having done all this, I bided my time. For some +nights, rather sleepless to me, though to my disgust I heard my officers +snoring all round me, nothing happened (though, as I heard afterwards, a +good deal had been going on outside the harbour), when, at about three +o'clock in the morning of the third or fourth night after I had received +the warning, I heard a row going on in the direction of the guard-boats +and an explosion near to one of the outlying ships. I had hardly time to +think, when something struck the chain of my flagship and seemed to spin +past, like a fish in the water. Then dead silence. I immediately sent +orders to the two fast cruisers, which were lying with steam up, to go +to sea and reconnoitre. + +Suddenly I heard people on shore calling out (I forgot to mention that +ships in Batoum harbour are always lashed to the shore). I sent my +officer to reconnoitre, who found a gaping crowd standing round what +they thought was a large fish lashing his tail, but what in reality was +an unexploded torpedo with the screw still in motion. On things being +calm I went myself to see what had happened generally during the attack, +and found that a torpedo had struck the bows of one of the ironclads on +the belt, at the waterline at an angle, had exploded, and scarcely left +a mark; that a second torpedo had, after passing through the planks on +the defensive barrier I had placed, _diverged from its course_, and gone +quietly on shore as far as the left of the squadron; that a third, as I +said, had struck the chain of the flagship and not gone off, but had run +on to the beach. The parts of another torpedo were afterwards picked up, +it evidently having exploded somewhere down below. So we could account +for four torpedoes having been fired at us without effect; probably +there were more. Those that were on the beach were in a very perfect +state, and as soon as we had rendered them harmless, we made prisoners +of war of them. Now I have been since informed of what went on outside +Batoum. It seems that for three nights two fast Russian steamers, +carrying torpedo boats, had been looking for Batoum, and as one of my +informants said, 'We could not find it for love or money.' A couple of +hours before daylight they had steamed off, so as to be out of sight +before break of day. At last they had bribed a man to light a fire in +the hills behind the town, and so on the fourth night they got +somewhere near it, but they could not make out the ships on account of +the _dark land behind_ them. The time for steaming off having nearly +come, they determined to have a shot at us, so fired five torpedoes into +what they thought the centre of the Turkish fleet, with what result we +have seen. The person who told me was one of them, and said it was +sickening work looking for Batoum. It is true the nights were fearfully +dark, so that the shape of the land could not be made out. He said that +without the traitor's light they could not have found us. I am not +saying by this that one should always trust to darkness; there are many +other ways _now_ of taking the sting out of torpedo attacks. It is +needless to say that the steamers I sent out returned, having seen +nothing. While the fleet was at Batoum, two or three more torpedo +attacks were made on a smaller scale without effect; but I have bored my +readers enough about torpedoes--all I know is that I can sleep now when +in their vicinity. While in the Black Sea I several times went with two +or three ships that could be spared from other duties and reconnoitred +Sebastopol and Odessa, but being fully convinced of the helplessness of +few or even of _many_ ships against the heavy batteries of the present +day, I did no more than look about me, occasionally exchanging shots +with the enemy. As to burning defenceless towns and villages, I have +always been thoroughly adverse to such things, so I never undertook it. +Some people think war should be made as horrible as possible; in this I +do not agree. I could easily have burnt the Emperor's palace at Yalta, +but did not think it expedient to do so. + +I have already spoken in general terms of the great services rendered by +the ironclads in moving the troops about, but I feel that, in justice to +the gallant crews of the squadron I had the honour to command during the +war, I ought not to bring this portion of my narrative to a close +without mentioning more particularly a piece of work of that nature +executed under my immediate direction. + +The capture of Soukhoum-Kaleh had been followed up by the despatch of an +expedition of some 4,000 men of all arms to a place some thirty miles +down the coast, called Tchamchira. The military commander at Soukhoum +had some idea, I believe, that this force would be able to make its way +inland, and thus encourage risings amongst the tribes against the +detested Muscovite rule. The country, however, was too unfavourable for +the advance of invading troops, being swampy ground with thick bush +where it was not an impenetrable forest. The Russians also got wind of +the intended movement, and to make a long story short, had managed to +collect a large opposing force. The expedition was landed, but that is +all. Before much could be done to secure the position as a base--whilst +the men in fact were making entrenchments--the Russians, who under cover +of the forest that extended right down to the beach on either side had +been stealthily making their preparations, attacked them on all sides, +and but for the covering fire of the ironclads, fortunately still at +anchor there, would undoubtedly have driven them into the sea. + +The result of this action enabled the force to establish itself in the +village, and hold possession of the small belt of cleared ground around +it, the extreme limit of which was still within the range of the guns of +the ironclads. + +The position of this force, however, daily grew worse. The Russians had +captured the fords, by which their retreat to Soukhoum was cut off. They +were completely surrounded, and only owed their preservation to the +continual presence of an ironclad. Under these circumstances it was +thought advisable to withdraw the men, and Dervish Pasha entrusted me +with the task. To give an idea of the precarious position of this force, +I may mention that, as I approached the place in my flagship, we heard +the sound of smart cannonading, and I found the guard-ship engaged with +a battery of field-pieces. The Russians had recently received a large +accession of force, and several field-guns of large calibre; and so, not +content with troubling the camp daily with an enfilading fire, had +thought to try conclusions with the heavy guns afloat. On our appearance +the action ceased, the Russians withdrawing their battery into the safe +shelter of the forest. The Russian fire had been well directed, and had +the guns been heavier calibre, considerable damage would have been +inflicted. As it was, the upper works and rigging were cut about a great +deal, and two men killed and four wounded on board the ironclad. After a +conference with the general in command, I proceeded to Soukhoum to make +arrangements for transport. I had hardly arrived there when a message +from Tchamchira arrived, urgently demanding assistance, as the Russians +were advancing in great force. I hurried back with all the vessels I +could collect to Tchamchira, three ironclad corvettes and two wooden +paddle-wheel transports. Fortunately the Russian attack had not +commenced, and the arrival of my squadron probably led to its +postponement until too late. To remove 4,000 men, bag and baggage, with +several batteries of field-pieces and a large amount of ammunition, was +no easy task with the small amount of transport at my command. I made, +however, what I considered to be the best disposition possible under the +circumstances. + +The corvettes and the paddle transports were moored in as close to the +shore as possible, my intention being to cram them with men and stores +first, leaving my flagship free to the last to manoeuvre off the Russian +camp and shell it, should the slightest opposition be offered to the +embarkation. The work commenced at daylight, and was actively carried on +throughout the day and following night, the last batch of men coming off +at dawn. The men were taken away from under the very teeth, as it were, +of the Russians. The ships in shore were well within rifle range, and +the boats passing to and fro were exposed the whole time to a fire from +hidden foes. The enemy had been evidently overawed by my preparations, +and doubtless thought it would be better for them to allow the invading +force to retire unopposed. To avoid the chance of grounding, in case I +should have to use the frigate fire to cover the embarkation, a +volunteer crew had proceeded off the Russian camp during the night, and +laid down a line of buoys, to show the limit of distance to which the +shore might be approached with safety. These buoys, glistening in the +sunlight, doubtless suggested to the Russians that something dreadful +was in store for them if they attempted to fire a gun, and so they +contented themselves with watching from the trees, amongst the branches +of which we saw a number of them perched like so many birds of prey. The +whole credit of the embarkation is due to the efficient manner in which +the naval officers under my command carried out the instructions given +them, and the great docility of the Turkish soldiers. Soon after sunset +the general and staff left the shore, and their example was followed by +every military officer of any rank; so that the whole work devolved upon +those I had placed in command of the beach and the boats. + +The men marched down quietly by themselves and everything went on like +clockwork. I must confess that I passed a most anxious night, as I knew +not but what at any moment the enemy might make a rush into the +entrenchments the Turks were abandoning, in order to claim a victory. My +own ship was getting lumbered up, and I knew that before long it would +be impossible to work more than one or two of the guns in case of need. +That the Russians, however, could not know this, was my comfort; but I +must own that it was a great relief to me when the last detachment left +the shore. The poor fellows had been holding the outposts all night. +They came in at the double, and little time was lost over their +embarkation. + +We steamed off at once to Soukhoum, and there disembarked the +expedition. Shortly after this I was called upon to prepare for a +veritable exodus. The evacuation of Soukhoum had been decided upon, but +His Imperial Majesty felt that the poor people, who had been expecting a +permanent deliverance from the Russian yoke, could not be abandoned to +those whose vengeance they had excited. Intimation was therefore given +that all those desirous of leaving the country should be carried to +Turkish territory, and provided with lands to form new settlements. The +whole population pretty well made up its mind to leave, and came +marching into Soukhoum with their flocks and herds, and household goods +and chattels. Suffice it to say that, with the vessels under my command, +I shipped off and landed at Batoum, Trebizonde, Sinope, and other ports +on the Turkish coast something like 50,000 people, counting men, women, +and children, within the space of a fortnight. + + + + +CHAPTER XX. + +SPORT IN TURKEY. + + +I will now endeavour to give my readers some idea of life at +Constantinople. If the resident is a sportsman he can find plenty of +amusement, game of all descriptions being plentiful. I may say that the +shooting begins about September 1, when great flights of quails pass the +environs of Constantinople, from the threatening winter of Russia to the +warmer climate of Egypt, and afford capital amusement. But really to +enjoy the sport it is necessary to go somewhat far, within ten miles of +Constantinople. The fields during the quail season are filled with +so-called sportsmen to such an extent that one has every chance of being +mistaken for a quail, and potted accordingly. I have counted at St. +Stephano, a place about nine miles from Stamboul, celebrated for +_treaties_ and quails, both in due season, more than five hundred +sportsmen accompanied by howling curs of every description. Such a +sight is worth looking at, but for sport, well--it is better to leave +gun and dogs at home. + +I once ventured out among the motley crowd of quail-shooters; there +happened to be a flight of quails, so the fire kept up very much +resembled a field-day on Southsea Common. I was hit all over with (thank +goodness!) very small shot, and made a rapid retreat to save my skin +from perforation. + +However, going some distance along the coast, away from the enemy, one +may at times get capital sport during the months of September and +October; for example, a single gun may bag a hundred and fifty to two +hundred quails in a day. + +After the quail comes the partridge shooting, which is very good, +especially in the islands of the Turkish archipelago, where there are +great numbers of red-legged partridges affording famous sport. + +To properly enjoy the shooting in Turkey a yacht is necessary, as the +best of it is to be found in the islands and near to the sea-coast, in +places quite inaccessible to roads. + +For example, the islands of Mitros, Lemnos, and Mytelene abound in +partridges, and the shooting there is really capital. + +Either by bringing a yacht from England, or by hiring one at +Constantinople, the real sportsman may have great amusement while +shooting, with Constantinople as headquarters. He will find in Asia +Minor deer of all descriptions, wild boars and wolves. Then he will have +capital sport with geese, ducks, woodcocks and partridges, and snipe. + +Occasionally he must rough it somewhat while sleeping in villages some +little distance from the sea-coast for a night or two, instead of +retiring on board his floating home, and on this head I would give a +word of advice to the sportsman. Always take up your quarters in a +Turkish village, if possible, in preference to a Greek village. At the +former you will find the traditional hospitality of the Oriental, even +among the very poor people, practised in every sense of the word; whilst +in the latter you will be _exploité_ (there is no English word that +signifies as well what I mean) to the last degree, even to the pilfering +of your cartridges. + +I have seen on arriving at a Turkish village every one vie with the +other, and doing their very utmost to make the sportsman and his party +comfortable. I have seen 'harems,' such as they are, cleaned out and +prepared as a sleeping apartment, all the inmates huddling together in +some little corner. I have remarked one old woman arrive with a couple +of eggs, another with what was perhaps her pet fowl, to be sacrificed at +the altar of hospitality--in fact, only one idea seemed to animate them, +namely, hospitality, and it is touching to see how they shrink from the +proffered reward made by the sportsman on leaving these kind though poor +and long-suffering people. + +There are different kinds of deer to be found in Asia Minor, which +strangely enough imitate the habits of the inhabitants, Greek, Turk, and +Armenian, by not herding together. + +First, there is the large red deer which generally inhabit the high +mountains and are difficult to get, except when the winter snow drives +them down into the lower grounds. I have been fortunate enough to kill +several of these splendid animals during my sojourn in Turkey. I will +give my readers an account of how I shot two of them. One day during the +winter, when the mountains were covered with snow, I received news that +three deer of the largest description were in a ravine at the foot of a +mountain some six hours' distance from Ismidt. I immediately started off +in pursuit. I must mention that all persons of high rank in Turkey have, +or had at the time I write of, by their shooting firman, the right to +call upon the villagers in the neighbourhood in which they are shooting +to assist in driving or searching for game. In my case it was not +necessary to take advantage of such an offer; every one was on the alert +for my arrival. The people told me that that very morning they had seen +the noble beasts I was after, grazing outside the wood. So, gathering +the villagers, boys carrying horns, men (much against my will) carrying +guns, accompanied by every available dog, from the grand shepherd's dog +to the yapping cur of the village, off we started. + +The ravine was thickly wooded, and extended far up the mountain, where +it ended in a bare spot without trees. To this place I went alone, +leaving the crowd behind me with directions not to move till I was in my +place, which instruction they most strictly followed. After half an +hour's walk I arrived at the place I have named. I had hardly time to +regain my breath when I heard a row below me as if Bedlam had been let +loose. I loaded my gun with buckshot in one barrel and ball in the +other, and remained as quiet as a mouse. As the noise of the beaters and +dogs approached me, I heard a crash in the bushes within about forty +yards of me, and presently a magnificent stag as big as a cow came +slowly out of the cover, looking behind him, evidently not expecting an +enemy in front. As soon as he was well clear of the bushes, I fired at +him with buckshot and killed him dead. I hardly had time to think, when, +with a tremendous rush, two other large deer broke out of the wood +straight at me at full gallop. I fired a bullet at the foremost one, +which turned back into the woods apparently wounded, and so it proved, +for it ran among the beaters, evidently having lost its head, and was +soon despatched among dogs, men and guns. He was a stag also, and as I +claimed to have shot him, I may say that I had the luck to shoot a brace +of splendid stags right and left. There is not a sportsman in Europe who +would not have been delighted at such a chance of red deer like these; +such as are not seen anywhere except in Asia Minor. The largest one had +nineteen points to his antlers, weighed when cleaned a hundred and +fifteen okes, equal to three hundred and twenty pounds English measure, +and certainly was the largest stag I have ever met with, either in +Scotland or in Austria. During the sixteen years that I have passed in +the East I have only succeeded in killing four of these splendid +animals. This I attribute very much to the want of proper deerhounds, +which unfortunately I have not been able to procure. + +The crowd of beaters make so much noise that the deer slip away at the +sides of the thick covers unseen, whereas dogs would drive them more in +a straight line towards the shooters if they are properly posted. In +addition to this, it is always a great advantage when the hounds give +tongue, and so warn the sportsman of the whereabouts of the game. These +hounds, called 'colpoys,' can be procured in Roumania and Hungary. There +is another description of deer found near the sea-coast in some parts of +Asia Minor, which I will describe. It is in fact the pure wild fallow +deer that stocks the parks of Europe, and if I am rightly informed is +only to be found wild in Asia Minor, and even there it is rare. + +I understand that in India or in Africa, where there are hundreds of +different sorts of deer, the real fallow is not to be found. While +shooting at a place called Camaris, near to Gallipoli, two years since, +I discovered several herds of these deer, beautiful creatures, wild as +hawks, and accordingly laid myself out to shoot some of them if +possible. I tried driving, stalking, and every manoeuvre to circumvent +them, without success. At last one day I started with my beaters to a +place where there were many tracks of fallow deer. I was posted at a +sort of small mountain pen, having on one side of me a young friend of +mine, and at the other a native (these fellows won't go out unless they +are allowed to carry their guns). + +Shortly after the beaters had begun to halloo, a fallow hind glided by +between me and my young friend, like a ghost. Not a sound in the wood +gave notice of its approach. It was even quieter in its movements than a +hare would have been. I put up my gun to fire, but seeing my friend's +head right in the way and in a line with its muzzle, I waited a second, +but the deer was gone. I had scarcely got over my disappointment when I +heard the branches breaking in the wood very near to me, and suddenly a +deer sprang right over my head, taking a flying leap, like a hunter +would do over a fence. + +This unusual action on the part of the deer called for unusual action on +my part. As he had taken a flying leap over my head, I took a flying +shot at him a second before he landed on the other side of me. The +result was that he rolled over like a rabbit, shot _from underneath_ +through the heart. This deer proved to be a very fine specimen of the +fallow, every point showing him to be of that species, except his +antlers, which were quite straight. This I cannot account for; the +natives, who had remarked this deer on several occasions feeding with +the herd of fallow deer, called it the 'Cassic Boa,' which means +'straight-horned.' Some time after this I had some good sport with the +fallow deer. Having got more accustomed to their habits, I found that it +was of no use trying to approach them, their scent being too keen, their +eyesight too sharp; the only way to get them is by very careful, in fact +I may say scientific, driving. + +Good boar shooting may be had by going some little distance from +Constantinople. It usually is done either by beaters or with boarhounds; +but I have had very good sport at boar while hunting for woodcocks and +pheasants, in what may be called covert shooting--not exactly English +covert shooting, in which almost every tree is known by the keepers, but +in coverts of great extent, in which there are almost impassable +thickets, made still more impassable by a well-known bramble called the +'wait a bit,' a thing that hooks on to your eyelids as you pass. + +There it is that in these coverts spaniels, half-English, half +country-bred dogs, do frequently the work of beaters, and it is a +strange fact that while piggy starts at once from his lair at the +approach of the boarhounds, he will not budge an inch for the little +yapping spaniel, whom he treats with contempt. + +I have known many instances when, on hearing a jolly row in the covert, +I have crawled in on my hands and knees, and found a boar being bayed by +my spaniels--in fact, I have killed more pigs in this way than in any +other. The danger is that you may have your dogs killed by the boar; +this has happened to me on one or two occasions, more especially with +young dogs. + +I had once a cunning old spaniel dog (poor 'Dick,' well known to most +sportsmen out here), who has frequently come out of the wood with his +mouth full of pig's hair, he evidently having torn the hair off the +animal while laying in his lair. (Dick was never hurt by a pig.) I have +often surrounded, with my brother sportsmen and myself, large bushes in +which the piggies were securely hidden, driven them out, and shot them +as one would do hares or rabbits. + +I have heard a good deal of the danger of pig shooting, on account of +the savage propensities of the animal; but I have found that, with very +rare exceptions, the Anatolian wild boar always runs. It is true that +they (she or he, the females are the most savage) have a nasty knack of +giving a sort of jerk with their heads, when fighting or even passing an +enemy, and that jerk means to a man the ripping up of his leg from his +heel to his thigh, to a dog the tearing open of his entrails. + +On one occasion I was out cock shooting, when some shepherds' dogs in a +valley adjoining that in which I was walking started a large wild boar, +a beast they call a '_solitaire_,' from the fact that he is always seen +after a certain time of life alone. The animal made for a ridge dividing +the valleys; on getting there he passed along the sky-line, about eighty +yards from where I was. I changed my cartridges and fired a ball at the +pig, who rushed away, apparently unshot; on going to the spot, however, +where he had passed when I fired, I found some drops of blood. This +blood I traced for about half a mile, till I came to a large clump of +bushes into which my spaniels dashed, evidently close to their game. I +heard a tremendous row in the bushes, had hardly time to prepare when +the great beast with his eyes all bloodshot and foaming at the mouth +rushed straight at me. I was on a narrow path, from which there was no +escape, as the boar was tearing up it, followed by the dogs. I fired a +ball straight in his face, at the distance of about two yards, in spite +of which he rushed straight on, knocked me clean over, and while passing +me made the usual dangerously effective jerk I have alluded to above, by +which he cut my _boot from the ankle to the thigh_, drew a little blood +just above and inside of the knee; after which the boar rushed headlong +for about thirty yards and dropped dead. I found that my bullet had +smashed through his forehead straight between the eyes and gone into his +brain. + +He was an enormous brute, weighing when cleaned twenty-one stone; +carrying the finest tusks I have seen anywhere as belonging to a wild +boar. I only had one man with me; we were what may be called eight miles +from anywhere. Still I was determined not to leave my prize; so I sent +my man for a country waggon, and sitting down on my now harmless beast, +smoked cigarettes and waited quietly till the vehicle came. + +Now, _apropos_ to wild boar attacking people, I am convinced that this +animal had no intention of attacking me. + +He was, though badly wounded by the first shot, running from the dogs, +and I got in his way. _Voilà tout_! On only one other occasion I nearly +came to grief while boar shooting. On my arriving at a Turkish village +one night, I was told that there was an enormous boar in the +neighbourhood, who for a long time had been the terror of the country, +inasmuch as he, accompanied by a large party of the pig tribe, had +rooted up the crops all round the village, destroyed gardens, and +tradition even said had killed children and eaten them (this latter +story I don't take in). However, the poor people prayed me with tears in +their eyes to rid them of their enemy, which I promised to do if +possible. So the next morning off we started in the following order: +first, myself and friends, accompanied by the elders of the village +armed with old-fashioned guns; then the young men with knives and big +sticks, the women and children bringing up the rear as lookers-on. I and +my two friends were escorted into the centre of a large wood, in which +very original _seats in trees_ had been knocked up for us. The object of +these seats was for our personal safety, but I as a sportsman saw at +once that to be up a tree was not only advantageous in that respect, but +also that we should be much more invisible, hidden among the branches of +a tree, than by being stationed on the ground. So we mounted our trees, +and the beaters went into the woods some half a mile from us. I never +heard such a row as they made when they began the drive; they beat +drums, fired guns, rang bells, and it was evident to me that no wild +beast would hold to his lair under such a torrent of abuse. I found the +words they were using were curses on the wild boar. I saw two or three +fallow deer glide past me, with their usual ghostlike silence, and +shortly afterwards the woods very near me seemed to shake with +something coming. Suddenly some fifteen to twenty wild boar appeared +among the bushes, coming straight towards me. The first of these was an +enormous brute, evidently _the_ boar we wanted. + +I heard shots on either side of me from my friends, but I kept my eye on +the big boar. To my astonishment he came right under the tree where I +was sitting, and stopped to listen. + +He cocked his head on one side, looked all round him, but forgot to look +up the tree he was quite close to, in which was his enemy. + +Taking advantage of this I fired a ball and an S.S.G. cartridge into +him, before he could make up his mind which way to go; he gave a +tremendous grunt and rolled over. I had not time to be overjoyed at my +luck before I found myself rolling on the ground alongside of my victim, +who, not being dead, was by no means a pleasant companion. The fact is +that the seat on which I had been perched, having been very carelessly +put up, had given way, and down I came from a height of about twelve +feet. The branches of the tree had broken my fall, but my gun had fallen +out of my hand and I had sprained my ankle, so that I was in rather an +awkward position. The boar was shot through the spine, and could not +get along, though he made frantic efforts to get at me. + +It was of no use my calling out for help; everybody was calling out, +everybody was excited, firing at the lots of pigs that were running +about in all directions. At the moment when I began to think affairs +somewhat serious (I tried to get up and walk, but could not do so on +account of my ankle), as the boar was crawling towards me, looking very +mischievous, two great shepherd's dogs arrived on the scene, and went +straight in for my enemy. Poor beast! He made a gallant fight; he could +hardly move, but he could use his head, and he tore one of the dogs open +in a frightful way; then two or three men came up, but they were afraid +to go near to the boar. I made them hand me my gun that was lying on the +ground near me, with which I soon put a stop to the battle. Then all the +people began to muster round their dead enemy, and it was laughable to +see and hear how they abused and kicked the body of the pig. How to get +the carcass away was the next question. We sent for two waggons and four +or five Christians (as the Turks won't touch pig), one to carry me, the +others the boar; so, after being placed in the waggons, we made with +piggy a triumphant return to the village. Luckily the village was on the +sea-shore, and my yacht was lying close to the land, so I got on board +comfortably; but it was several days before I could walk. + +I believe that that pig was _nasty_, and would have given me the jerk if +he could have done so. Five other boar were killed on that occasion, one +of my friends killing two; but I had the honour of killing _the_ boar of +the period in that part of the world. While referring to that +neighbourhood, I would mention that it was within five miles of the +place I have been writing about that poor Captain Selby, of H.M.S. +'Rapid,' was killed, some two years since. There are people who think +that he was attacked and murdered by robbers. Such is not the case; his +death was a most unfortunate occurrence brought on by a +misunderstanding. + +It is true that the man who shot poor Selby was an ignorant savage, but +there was no premeditation. It was a word and a blow. The latter, though +inexcusable to the last degree, was given by a ruffian whose class are +in the habit of shooting and stabbing one another (let alone strangers, +whom they detest) at the slightest provocation. They are not natives of +Turkey, but come of strange tribes who live far away and are hired to +guard the sheep in the winter months, returning to their homes in the +summer. I went myself to the spot where the sad occurrence took place +shortly afterwards, and found the people very penitent and very +frightened. Let us hope that the punishment awarded to the principal +actors in the sad affair will be a salutary warning for the future. + +As brigandage may be considered as in some way connected with sporting, +inasmuch as many refrain from going out shooting when they fear being +robbed and murdered, I will say a few words about brigandage in +Anatolia. + +I have been for seventeen years an ardent lover of sport in Turkey, and +have generally shot in Asia Minor. I have slept in villages that were +supposed to be inhabited by brigands. I have been almost alone among an +armed crowd of beaters, all of whom had the reputation of being robbers, +but I have never been robbed or threatened with robbery. Perhaps there +exists a sort of sympathy between brigands and sportsmen, for I cannot +call to mind any instance of a sportsman being robbed. It is true that +sometimes a fat financier, or rich _rentier_, who may have called +himself a sportsman, has been carried off and ransom demanded for him, +but a real sportsman never. + +It is true that in some of the villages where dwell the peoples of a +nation I am not supposed to love, you are liable to and probably will +be _exploité_ to a considerable extent in the way of pilfering +cartridges, &c., but it is their nature to. So, brother sportsmen, when +you come out here take your abode in Turkish villages. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +SPORT AND SOCIETY. + + +I have mentioned, in what I have written above relating to sport, the +name of a somewhat celebrated spaniel of mine, whose name was 'Dick.' + +The commencement of this bow-wow's career was as strange as the many +adventures he afterwards went through. When he was quite a young dog, he +once worked with me all day in ice and snow, and at last fell down +lifeless. A heavy snowstorm was raging, and as poor Dick seemed quite +dead, we made him a grave in the snow and covered him up with leaves and +bushes. We accomplished this with difficulty, on account of the blinding +snow and the streams that were much swollen by torrents from the +mountains. Dick's burial-place was about eight miles from where the +vessel was lying. We all got on board that night. I was deeply grieved +at the loss of the dog, who had already shown great promise as a +first-class sporting dog, a most difficult thing to procure in this +country. What was our astonishment the next morning at daylight to see +Dick on the beach, making piteous howls to draw attention to his +whereabouts. He was warmly welcomed, as may be supposed; he did not seem +a bit the worse for his brief sojourn in the grave, and went out +shooting again the same day as happy as ever. This enthusiastic little +spaniel was always doing strange things; he followed every fox and every +badger into their holes, and we have had, time after time, to dig him +out covered with blood and fearfully mauled, after having passed perhaps +twenty-four hours in the earth. + +Mr. Dick generally hunted alone, occasionally coming near to see that I +was all right. Now this sounds bad for Dick's qualities as a sporting +dog, but such a dog is necessary in a thickly-wooded region such as I +shot in, when one wants to know what is in the country. + +Dick, when he found anything, barked loudly; and this drew attention to +the fact that there was game in that quarter. Sometimes, of course, he +drove the game away; at others he drove it towards me. At all events he +went to places where I never could have gone. On one occasion I heard a +great noise among some long reeds near a lake were I was duck +shooting--Dick barking, some other animal making a strange noise. This +went on so long that at last I went to see what was the matter. After +much trouble I got into the reeds and approached the noise, which was +momentarily getting worse. On coming close I found an animal about +Dick's size standing on its hind legs and fighting with its fore paws, +Dick covered with blood, fighting hard and watching an opportunity to +close with his enemy. On my approach the animal dropped on to fore paws +and endeavoured to escape, on which Dick jumped on to him, thus making +it very difficult for me to use my gun. However, at last, by watching my +opportunity, I fired a shot which disposed of the fighting powers of the +beast, which turned out to be a very large badger. I never could +understand what he was doing so far away from his place of refuge. Was +he after ducks, or what? The animal was at least a quarter of a mile +away from dry land, being in the middle of a marsh, overgrown with +reeds. Another of Mr. Dick's adventures ended more unfortunately for +him, as I fear he never got over its effects. I again, as on the last +occasion, heard him evidently furiously engaged with something in a +thick wood. After crawling on my hands and knees for some time, I found +Dick and two other of my spaniels in furious combat with an enormous +wild cat, who when I came up was holding her own against the dogs. The +beast got her back against a tree, and was fighting all three dogs, +keeping them at a respectful distance. My man seized a piece of wood, +more like a little tree than a stick, and made a blow at the cat, which +blow unfortunately came down with great force on Dick's head. The poor +dog lay senseless for some time, and then crawled away, seeming to say, +'I'll have nothing more to do with you.' He never recovered that blow, +and became quite a different dog, dying some months afterwards. + +The feathered game shooting is very good in the neighbourhood of +Constantinople. Pheasants, though rare, may be obtained five or six in a +day. I have killed fifteen to my own gun, and with a party of three we +bagged sixty-six in three days. + +Snipe shooting is also very good. An idea of the bags that may be made +will be seen when I say that at Besika Bay, close to the Dardanelles, I +killed in three days three hundred and three snipe, an average of one +hundred and one a day. When there is snow lying on the hills there are +plenty of cock; myself and two friends having killed in three days two +hundred and ninety-eight long bills. + +My best bag in cock has been sixty-three in one day's shooting alone. I +have lately taken to punting after ducks, and have been very successful. +One gets twenty to thirty a day, and occasionally a swan. I once killed +four of the latter with one shot from my punt gun (one of Holland & +Holland's). Hares are not very numerous; to get three or four in a day +is counted good luck; but one generally picks up one or two during a +day's shooting. Thus the sum of what you have in this country is red +deer, fallow deer, roe deer, pigs, wolves, and bears (as to the latter, +rare), hares, pheasants, cocks, snipe, quails, and ducks; so that a man +who lays himself out for sport and has a yacht can have plenty of +amusement between September and March. + +The coast of Karamania, taking in all the coast from some distance below +Smyrna, passing Rhodes and so on to the Gulf of Ayas, affords all the +way along capital sport to yachting men. For example, in the large gulfs +of Boudroum and Marmorice, capital anchorage will be found, and a +country almost virgin as far as sport is concerned. + +Some years since, while commanding an English ship-of-war, I had the +good fortune to be sent on a roving commission against pirates that were +supposed to infest that coast. Somehow I always _imagined_ that pirates +were more or less sportsmen, so I hunted for them in places that looked +gamey, and thus made the acquaintance of many almost unknown, or at all +events unfrequented, harbours and creeks, in which I had famous sport. +On the coast of Karamania the ibex is to be found in considerable +quantities; the red-legged partridge and the francolin are also very +abundant, and give capital sport. + +There are also at the head of the gulf I have alluded to large marshes +for duck and snipe. The most celebrated, because the best known place in +the part I am alluding to, is the Gulf of Ayas, into which runs the +well-known (to all naval sportsmen) river called the Jihoon. A yacht +must anchor at some distance off the entrance of this river, but the +anchorage is quite safe in all weathers. Getting over the bar of the +river is a matter at times of considerable difficulty, but once inside +the bar you are in the paradise of shooting. A small steam launch is +necessary to stem the strong current, and to tow another boat up with +tents, provisions, &c. It is true that in my time we had no steam +launches, and I shall not forget the hard work we had to take two boats +sufficiently far up the river to get well into the shooting grounds, and +even after two days' struggling we did not arrive so far as I should +have wished (we, in fact, only got four miles up the stream). Still we +had some rare sport, the more especially with pigs and francolin. The +morning after we had pitched our tents some wandering Arabs came to us +and offered to beat the woods, which they declared to be full of wild +boar. They told us that the habit of these animals was, on being driven, +to take to the river and swim to the other side; so we placed our guns +along the banks and told the boat to guard the river from pigs swimming +across, and try to stop them as best they could. The guns available for +the shore work consisted of myself and two friends and my coxswain, who +was armed with a ship's rifle. The Arabs went into the bush on +horseback; the beat had hardly begun when a lot of pigs were started, +all making for the river; three of these were knocked over. As they +approached several others dashed into the river, and a most amusing hunt +was made after them by the sailors. Not being armed with rifles, their +weapons of offence against piggy were revolvers, ropes, and the +stretchers of the boats. + +There was, as may be supposed, great excitement among the men when the +pigs took to the water; they at once went at them, firing revolvers, +pulling after them as they swam, using language not allowed in these +refined days in the navy; and, before we got to the scene of action +they had lassoed as it were two fine pigs, and tied them to trees on the +river-side, and when we arrived were firing their revolvers at them +apparently with very little effect; however, we soon gave the animals +the _coup de grâce_. Thus we killed five pigs in our first drive. We +took the liver, alias fry, out of the pigs to eat (it is most +excellent), cut off the heads of the tuskers, and hung the remaining +parts on a tree to wait our return, changing our camp further up the +river the same night. The next morning early I took a stroll into the +woods by myself; while looking about me I saw what I thought was a large +animal sleeping in the bushes. I began accordingly to stalk him. I got +within eighty yards, put my gun up to shoot, but as I could not pitch on +a vital part to aim at, only seeing a mass of what was evidently an +animal rolled up, I went nearer and nearer; in fact, little by little, I +got within ten yards of the quarry; then I fired a ball into what I now +saw was a huge pig. No move! What did it mean? I could not have killed +it sleeping. However, I took courage and went close and put my hand on +the beast; what should it be but an immense boar lying dead in his lair. +He must have died months before I found him, as the skin fell to pieces +on being touched, the hair into powder; his head was a splendid one, +but I could only save the jawbones, in which were a grand pair of tusks. +The moral of this was that pigs, like everything else, die--sometimes +quietly in their beds, be that retreat only a lair in the forest; but it +is a rare occurrence to find relics of wild animals in so perfect a +state. I fancy their friends and relations generally eat them. The bed +or lair he was lying in was a most snug spot, and he would have been +quite invisible had not some of the brushwood been burnt away, Arab +fashion, a short time before I found him. + +I must warn any sportsman intending to shoot in the Jihoon river that +the wandering Arabs who are to be found there, though not brigands of a +high order, are petty thieves to the last degree. We were always obliged +to keep a watch in our tents, leaving a man behind in charge when we +went on shooting excursions. On one occasion we found on our return that +our watchman had captured an old woman whom he caught in the act of +creeping under the tent and stealing a spoon. I had myself a curious +adventure. An Arab told me that he knew where a boar was lying in the +long grass, and that he would take me to the spot if I would accompany +him. We started off together, and on getting well into the wood we went +on our hands and knees, crawling under the trees and brushwood, towards +the spot where the boar was supposed to be. We had to keep quite close +together. I carried round my neck a very pretty silver whistle, which I +prized exceedingly. Suddenly, when we were in a very thick part of the +bush, the Arab seized hold of my whistle and held it tight. I +immediately grasped the hand that held the whistle; this I did with my +right hand holding his left. He, with his right hand, tried to draw a +knife. I, with my left, tried to get my gun to bear on him, but there +was so little room to spare on account of the thick bush that both our +operations were difficult of performance. As soon as I saw him trying to +draw a knife, I dropped the hand with the whistle, and seized that with +which he tried to draw the knife. Thus the play went on for two or three +minutes; neither of us spoke, all our energies were directed on our +different games. At last, by turning round a little, I succeeded in +giving him a tremendous kick, which rolled him over on his back; then my +gun was free, and I held it to his head, upon which he took an attitude +of supplication on his knees, and prayed for quarter. I made him give me +his knife, go on all-fours again, and creep before me out of the wood. +This was a most audacious attempt at petty robbery. I should like to +have peppered him a little, but he was so penitent, I decided to let +him go. I don't think he meant to stab me; I think he merely wanted to +cut the string that held the whistle. These men were not generally +murderers. On this trip we killed twelve pigs, a hundred and seven +francolin, one lynx, and lots of cock and ducks. Coming back to the ship +I, and those with me in my boat, very nearly came to utter grief. There +was a good deal of sea on the bar of the river. The cutter that was with +me got over all safe, but my whale-boat being loaded heavily with pigs, +&c., refused to rise with the waves, and not doing so, the consequences +were that she filled and capsized. We had all to jump and make for the +shore, a distance of nearly a mile, being in the greatest danger while +doing so of getting into the current of the river. Any one who had done +this must have been washed away and drowned; however, thank goodness, +all hands were saved. The whale-boat was afterwards picked up, having +been washed out to sea, but we lost all tents, spare guns, &c.; the pigs +remained in the boat, as they were stowed under the thwarts, and hadn't +room to float out; so, friends, take warning of the bar of the Jihoon +river. + +It was about this time that I received a report from some American +missionaries to the effect that one of their comrades had been robbed +and murdered by some Arabs who inhabited the mountains near +Alexandretta, people whose evil deeds had for some time past brought +them into notoriety. Although I was under orders to join the +commander-in-chief, I took it upon myself to remain and assist the +Americans in hunting down if possible the murderers of their comrade. + +I confess I was made more zealous in the cause from hearing that there +were 'lots of big game on the hills.' I invited two or three of these +American missionaries to join my mess, and off we went to look for the +murderers. As this is a chapter on shooting, I will as briefly as +possible state what we did in the official way. In the first place we +anchored at the head of the Gulf of Ayas, near a large town where +resided the chief authority of the neighbourhood in which the murder had +been committed. I landed with the missionaries, several of my officers, +and some marines to act as an escort, and paid an official visit to this +gentleman, who was called the caimakam, or chief magistrate. This great +man told us that we should certainly with his assistance find the people +we were after. He suggested that we should accompany him with a small +body of our men, to which he could add some of his zeptiehs: that thus +accompanied he would go to a place on the hill where we should find +what we wanted. He said that a little 'backsheesh' was necessary. This +latter we found, and the next day we started. + +We ascended amongst the most magnificent wooded hills I ever saw. 'Such +places for game!' thought I, till at last we halted at a clump of +splendid oak trees. Under one of these a grand luncheon was spread, of +which we were all invited to partake. During the luncheon a man rushed +up to our host and whispered in his ear something which seemed to give +him great satisfaction, for he at once smilingly said, 'Captain, I have +found the men you are after;' and sure enough we saw approaching two +ruffianly looking fellows, tied together, and being dragged along by men +on horseback. I hope they were the right men. I will presume that they +were, but they had been very quick in catching them. After my missionary +friend who spoke their language had interrogated the prisoners, he +requested that they might be kept apart, which was done, and they were +given in charge of separate sentinels, to whose horses they were tied. +We then returned to our lunch, our pipes, and our coffee. Suddenly we +heard a pistol shot, a rush, and a scream from the neighbourhood of the +prisoners. It seems that one of them had drawn the pistol from his +guardian's belt, shot him dead, jumped on to the horse, and galloped +off. Everybody, marines and all, tried to follow. Such a row never was +heard; but the man knew the country, and we saw him no more. I was +rather glad, for he must have been a plucky fellow. + +The other prisoner was doubly secured and taken down to the village. He +was afterwards hanged, so justice was satisfied and my work finished. I +got a letter of thanks from the President of the United States, of which +I was and am still very proud, and meant to have used had +blockade-running brought me to grief. + +This business being satisfactorily concluded, I asked my friend the +caimakam if there was any big game to be had. His answer was, 'Chok au +Va,' which meant there was plenty: and he undertook to beat the +neighbouring woods that very day with his men. We were told that there +were plenty of roe deer, foxes, jackals, &c., so we loaded our guns with +S.S.G. cartridges (which means, I may tell it to the uninitiated, +buck-shot). We were stationed on the outskirts of a splendid oak wood +that looked like holding any mortal thing in the way of game. Soon as +the beaters set to work cocks began to fly about in all directions, but +we had an instinct that something more important would turn up, so took +no notice of feathered game. I was watching close, trying to look +through almost impenetrable brushwood, when I heard a rustling sort of +noise near me, and suddenly I caught sight of something which almost +made my hair stand on end--a great tiger leopard, creeping, stealthily +as a cat, out of the wood, within twenty yards of where I was standing. +Fortunately he did not look my way. What was I to do? My gun, as I said, +was loaded with buck-shot; a miss or a wound would have been sure to +bring the brute on top of me. However, I did not hesitate more than a +couple of seconds; I pointed my gun at his heart just behind the +shoulder, and pulled the trigger. The whole charge went straight where I +pointed it, and the tiger rolled over on his back. I put a ball into my +gun and approached him very gingerly. When I got close to him I found he +hadn't a kick in him. His claws were crunched up as if grasping +something, his grand eyes were growing dim, and though, to make all +sure, I fired a ball into his head, it was not necessary, as I found +nine buckshot in the heart. He was a splendid beast, eleven feet from +tip of tail to end of nose. It was said that he had killed a shepherd +some days before, so he deserved his fate. + +Before returning to the ship that evening, we arranged that the Arabs +should turn out the next day to drive the covers on the beach near the +ship, which were supposed to hold deer and pigs. I must mention that +these Arabs are very different to the wandering tribes we had lately +been amongst; they are warlike, unscrupulous, and dishonest. We made an +arrangement with them that _all_ game killed should belong to us, the +beaters being paid in gunpowder, which they prized very much. The Arabs +thought we should only find pig, and as Mussulmen won't touch it, the +bargain was considered satisfactory to both parties. + +It so happened that at the first drive a very fine deer, of a species I +had never seen before, broke cover. I had the luck to shoot him, and as +the ship was lying very near, we hailed her for a boat in which to send +off our game. I saw a good deal of whispering among the Arabs, who, +after some discussion, informed us through one of the missionaries, who +kindly acted as interpreter, that the deer must belong to them, as they +only promised to give the pigs, and they openly declared we should not +take it on board. I wasn't going to stand this, for many reasons. In the +first place it was necessary to show these people that we were their +masters; secondly, by our agreement the deer was ours. When the boat (a +cutter with ten men unarmed) had come on shore, I gave orders for the +men to return and bring their arms and ten marines, also armed. The +Arabs, of whom there were about one hundred armed to the teeth, seemed +firm in their decision; so was I. When I pointed to my armed men, who +were by this time landing, they pointed with the same significant +gestures to their armed men. At this critical moment, my first +lieutenant, seeing that something was wrong, fired a shell right over +our heads to intimidate the Arabs, and the result showed that it had +that effect. The deer was lying on the beach. I ordered the marines to +form a cordon round him, and the sailors to bring up the boat stretchers +on which to lay the animal. When all was ready I gave the command to +carry it away and put it in the boat. The Arabs cocked their muskets and +made a move forward; the marines turned and faced them. I thought we +were in for a fight; however, the bearers carried off their charge and +placed it in the boat, when to my astonishment the Arab chief put down +his musket and came and made his salaam to me, asking if he might be +allowed to visit the ship. I, of course, was delighted. We took him and +several of his friends on board, and the visit ended in their all +getting roaring drunk, being hoisted over the ship's side and landed on +the beach. So passed off what might have been a serious affair. I might +have become involved in a long explanation to show that I was right in +protecting my game by armed force, but under all the circumstances I +feel that I was fully justified in doing so. + +I should like before finishing these sketches to say something about the +society of Constantinople. As one cannot always be out shooting, it is +very important to our happiness to have something to fall back upon in +the social way. I was told once by a very great friend of mine, who saw +that I was inclined to fret, 'to take everything as a joke.' If one's +liver is in good order it is very easy to do so, but sometimes the +contrary is the case, and it makes one at times quite savage to see the +airs that are temporarily put on by those that form the so-called upper +or diplomatic society of Pera. Here are really amiable people so utterly +spoilt by the exalted idea of their own dignity that they become +absolute bores, especially to any one accustomed to good society. If you +go to a soirée you see grouped together, for fear of contamination with +the outsiders (without which a successful party cannot be formed), the +members of the so-called 'sacred circle,' talking to each other in +dignified (or undignified, as the case may be judged) whispers. While +all are cheerful and gay, you scarcely see a smile on the countenances +of these tremendous swells. + +If you go in the street you will meet a creature dressed in most +gorgeous apparel, armed to the teeth with firearms that probably won't +go off, knives and daggers covered with precious stones, walking +solemnly along. If you look carefully among the crowd in his wake you +will discover some one, or ones, walking with an indignant swagger at +being hustled by the vulgar crowd. The man in gold, armed to the teeth, +is what is called a _cavass_, and these swells behind are the +representatives, male or female, of some foreign potentate, taking a +walk. It would be quite _infra dig._ to go without one of these useless +appendages. Again, if an individual not belonging to the 'sacred circle' +meets a foreign representative who condescends to speak to him, and +while he is doing so another member of an embassy 'heaves in sight,' the +first swell will immediately sheer off, looking ashamed at having so far +forgotten himself as to be seen speaking to any one outside 'his +circle.' You may occasionally be invited to the houses of these exalted +personages, but there is always an implied condescension in their +attitude which tends to negative the effect of their good intentions. +And all this is a great pity, because these people must be tired of +each other, and would find quite as much intelligence outside as inside +their circle. Besides, there are charming people among them who would +ornament any society, but their ill-acted airs of 'brief authority' +quite spoil them, and make them, as I said, bores to themselves and to +those who would be their friends. + +I will, in proof of what I say, relate a short anecdote as to what +occurred in the house of a friend of mine. + +This friend gave a very large fancy dress ball, at which two or three +hundred people were present. The ball was in every way a success, but as +the giver did not belong to the 'sacred circle,' the members of that +body only condescended to go for a short time. I have no doubt (for +there are lots of jolly people among them) that they would have liked to +have stopped much longer, but it was not thought 'dignified.' So, after +a short time, most of the 'sacred circle' sneaked away. One of them who +had two charming daughters, devoted to dancing, not having noticed the +departure of the great people till that moment, came hurriedly to my +friend and said, 'Goodnight, I _must go_, every one is gone.' 'Every +one?' said my friend, 'why, look at the rooms, there are at least two +hundred people dancing and amusing themselves.' 'Yes, I see,' said the +diplomat (he was rather a small one), 'but I mean the ambassadors and +their parties, are gone, so I _must_ go; but for once, to please you, +I'll leave my daughters.' I believe my friend answered, 'You may go to +the d----l.' This is a fact, and shows the unfortunate system that ruins +to a great extent the sociability of society in Pera. + +Now it is true that all these people are called barons, counts, +viscounts, &c., but my friend belongs to a right good family, and would +have been more than the equal of many of them had they met in Paris, +London, St. Petersburg, Berlin, or Vienna. The title of baron, &c., +seems to me to be always given to a diplomat _ex-officio_. However, +barons or no barons, the rule of exclusiveness laid down by the 'sacred +circle' at Constantinople is to be deplored as it injures society sadly. +Few large parties are given now except those got up by the great people. +When an outsider sends out invitations for a ball, or any other kind of +_réunion_, the negotiations that go on between the swells as to whether +they should patronise it or not are comical in the extreme. Should ever +so slight an omission in the form of these invitations, or a mere +accident in the delivery thereof, appear to them to touch their dignity, +they will probably all absent themselves in a body, even were it +question of the marriage or the funeral of one of their oldest and most +respectable acquaintances. Not being one of them, and not caring very +much for artificial society, I look on with great amusement. Some one +gave great offence on a late occasion, while describing society in Pera, +by suggesting that if there were a European court here things would be +very different; so they might. People would then find their level, as +they do in other capitals. + +I feel very sorry for the members of the 'sacred circle.' Not only do +they lose much now, but it will be awkward for them when they go back +from whence they came. A short time ago I asked a very high and mighty +personage if she did not fear the change that must come when she left +Constantinople. She answered with great frankness: 'I feel that most of +what you say is correct, but before I came here I was very small fry; +now I know I am a swell, and mean to enjoy myself.' She was like those +reckless ones who cried: 'Let us eat and drink, for to-morrow we die.' I +have seen a stand made by one or two of these mighty ones, an attempt to +break down the system of pompous exclusiveness, but that attempt +unfortunately failed. + +I must say that the foreign colonies in Pera are much to blame, for +they worship with all their minds and all their strength their different +chiefs and chieftainesses, and human nature being weak, &c. &c. + +Apart from the 'sacred circle' there is a nice little society where +people go in for enjoying themselves, and succeed in doing so very +comfortably; but even there, with some few exceptions, there is that +secret longing for one or two of the swells--even a junior secretary of +an embassy is looked upon as a desideratum. + +The Greeks keep very much to themselves; so do the Armenians. The Turks +are exceedingly fond of going into society, but their domestic +arrangements tend to prevent their entertaining. + +His Majesty the Sultan frequently invites European ladies to his dinner +parties, and those who have had that honour must have thoroughly enjoyed +the delicious music and the pleasant entertainments after dinner at the +Palace of Yildiz. I don't see why His Imperial Majesty's example is not +followed by some of his subjects; perhaps we may yet come to that +by-and-by. + +In what I have said about society in Pera I have not meant to be +personal or offensive in any way. My object has been to show up a rotten +system whereby everybody suffers. I have some remote hope that things +may change for the better, especially as one of the chief promoters of +the system has now left Constantinople. + +If I bring these pages to a somewhat abrupt conclusion, it is because I +have had the bad luck to get a chill out shooting, and have been +somewhat seriously ill. However, I have hope that there is 'life in the +old dog yet,' and that I may before long have some other adventures of a +similar description to add to these 'unvarnished sketches' of my life. + + + + +_EXTRACT FROM THE 'DAILY TELEGRAPH,' + +June 21, 1886._ + + +'There will be some slight and melancholy satisfaction to his sorrowing +family, and his many friends, in the knowledge of the fact that Hobart +Pasha, a short time before his death, had prepared for publication a +memoir of his stirring life and adventures. The only fault, if fault +there be, in this record, may lie in the circumstance that its readers +may think it too brief. At all events, we shall be told what Hobart had +been about ever since the year 1836. It is certain that he never was +idle. Even before he had passed his examination for lieutenant, he had +distinguished himself while serving in the squadron told off to suppress +the slave trade in Brazilian waters: and in those days our naval +operations against the Portuguese traders in "blackbirds" involved +considerable peril to life and limb. + +'Eighteen years, however, elapsed before Captain Augustus Hobart was +able to shot his guns in view of the broadside of a European foe. He had +previously enjoyed two years' half-holiday at home; that is to say, he +had been appointed, as a reward for his services in South America, to a +lieutenancy on board the Royal yacht, the Victoria and Albert, then +commanded by the late Adolphus Fitz-Clarence. But in the historically +momentous year 1854 there was serious business to be done by +Lieutenant--now Commander--Hobart. A diplomatic squabble between France +and Russia about the Holy Places in Palestine developed into an angry +quarrel between the Emperor Nicholas, France, and England. We went to +war with Russia. A magnificent squadron of British first-rates was +despatched to the Black Sea with the avowed object of destroying the +Russian Fleet, which had characteristically annihilated the Turkish +Fleet in the harbour of Sinope. We did not do much in the Black Sea +beyond running the Tiger on shore, where her crew were captured by the +Muscovites. We bombarded Odessa perfunctorily, and precisely in that +portion of the city where our shot and shell could do the least harm. We +did not destroy the Russian Fleet, for the sufficing reason that the +Russian Commander-in-Chief sank all his three-deckers full fathom five +in the harbour of Sebastopol. + +'In the Baltic, however, there was a little more fighting to show for +the many millions sterling wrung from the British taxpayer. To the +coasts of Finland was sent a splendid Armada, commanded by one of the +bravest seamen that ever adorned the glorious muster-roll of the Royal +Navy of England, Admiral Sir Charles Napier. Under his orders was +Captain Augustus Hobart, in command of Her Majesty's ship Driver. "Lads, +sharpen your cutlasses!" thus began the memorable manifesto addressed by +the hero of St. Jean d'Acre to the gallant tars. The Baltic fleet was to +do wonders. The lads, with their cutlasses very well sharpened, went +aboard the Russian war-ships before Cronstadt, stormed the seven forts +which guard the entrance to that harbour, and sailed up the Neva even to +St. Petersburg itself. It is true that ere the war was over a spy +informed Lord Augustus Loftus, then Her Majesty's Ambassador at Berlin, +that a certain channel or waterway existed unguarded by any fort at all, +by which a British flotilla with muffled oars could have got quietly +into the Neva without taking the trouble to destroy the Russian fleet or +to blow the seven forts of Cronstadt into the air. The revelations of +the spy went for nothing; and, after the cutlasses of the lads in +blue-jackets had been sharpened to a razor-like degree of keenness, +those blades, for some occult reason, were not allowed to cut deep +enough; the only cutting--and running into the bargain--being done by +the Russian fleet, which, safely ensconced in the harbour of Cronstadt, +defied us from behind the walls of fortresses which we did not care to +bombard. Still, the Baltic fleet was not wholly idle. There was some +fighting and some advantage gained over the Russians at Helsingfors, at +Arbo, and notably at Bomarsund. In all these engagements Commander +Hobart distinguished himself--so brilliantly, indeed, as to be named +with high approval in official despatches. + +'Soldiers in peace, Bacon has remarked, are like chimneys in summer. +Hobart seemed resolved that the aphorism quoted by Francis of Verulam +should not be verified in the case of sailors. The fire of the Earl of +Buckinghamshire's son was always alight, and he became, during the great +Civil War in America the boldest of blockade-runners. When the +Confederacy collapsed Hobart, by this time a Post-Captain, received +overtures of employment from the Turkish Government, and in 1868 he was +appointed, as Admiral Slade had been before him, to a high command in +the Ottoman Navy. It was a curious illustration of the various turns of +fate here below to find in 1869 the Sultan, the Commander of the +Faithful, sending the Giaour Hobart Pasha, the erst Secesh +blockade-runner, to the island of Crete to put down blockade-running on +the part of the intensely patriotic but occasionally troublesome Greeks. +Hobart was entrusted with unlimited powers, and he accomplished his +mission with so much vigour and with so much skill as to insure the good +graces of the Porte, and he soon rose to be Inspector-General of the +Imperial Ottoman Navy. Although his name was necessarily erased from the +list of the Royal Navy when he definitely threw in his lot with the +Sultan on the breaking out of the Turko-Russian war, all English +admirers of pluck and daring were glad to learn at a comparatively +recent period that the Honourable Augustus Charles Hobart Hampden had +been reinstated by Royal command in his rank in the British Navy. + +'It was the good fortune of the distinguished maritime commander just +deceased, to win golden opinions from all sorts of peoples, and his name +and prowess will be as cordially remembered in his native land, and in +the Southern States of America, as on the shores of the Bosphorus and +the Golden Horn. + +'A thorough Englishman at heart, he was none the less a fervent +philo-Turk in politics and convictions, and latterly devoted his talents +and his life to the defence of the integrity of the Ottoman Empire. As +ready with his pen as with his sword, he was a clear, trenchant, +vigorous writer, and could talk on paper as fluently and as cogently +about ironclads and torpedoes as about the wrongs of the natives of +Lazistan, the necessity of upholding the integrity of the Turkish +Empire, and of circumventing the dark and crooked wiles of Russian +diplomacy. Altogether Augustus Charles Hobart was a remarkable +man--bluff, bold, dashing, and somewhat dogged. There was in his +composition something of the mediæval "condottiere," and a good deal +more of that Dugald Dalgetty whom Scott drew. Gustavus Adolphus would +have made much of Hobart; the great Czarina, Catherine II., would have +appointed him Commander-in-Chief of her fleet, and covered him with +honours, even as she did her Scotch Admiral Gleig, and that other yet +more famous sea-dog, king of corsairs, Paul Jones. It would be unjust to +sneer at Hobart as a mercenary. His was no more a hired sword than were +the blades of Schomberg and Berwick, of Maurice de Saxe and Eugene of +Savoy. When there was fighting to be done Hobart liked to be in it--that +is all. Of the fearless, dashing, adventurous Englishman, ready to go +anywhere and do anything, Hobart was a brilliantly representative type. +Originally endowed with a most vigorous physique, his constitution +became sapped at last by long years of hardship and fatigue incident to +the vicissitudes of a daring, adventurous career. He left Constantinople +on leave of absence some months ago to recruit his shattered health, and +spent several weeks at the Riviera. But it would seem that he +experienced little relief from the delicious climate of the South of +France, and it was on his homeward journey to Constantinople that this +brave and upright British worthy breathed his last. The immediate cause +of his death was, it is stated, an affection of the heart, a term +covering a vast extent of unexplored ground. It would be nearer the +truth to say that the frame of Augustus Charles Hobart was literally +worn out by travel and exposure and hard work of every kind which had +been his lot, with but brief intervals of repose, ever since the day, in +the year 1836, when as a boy of thirteen he joined the Navy as a +midshipman.' + + * * * * * + +It will be gratifying to Englishmen to know that their distinguished +countryman received at his burial all the honours due to his high +station and noble qualities. Such a concourse of people of all ranks and +nations had never been seen at any public ceremony on the Bosphorus as +that which, on July 24, accompanied the remains of Hobart Pasha to their +last resting place in the English cemetery at Scutari, not far from the +spot where a tall granite obelisk records the brave deeds and glorious +death of those heroes who perished in the Crimean War. + +[Footnote 1: It must be understood that both men and boats were +disguised so as to resemble the ordinary fishing coasters about those +parts.] + + + +PRINTED BY + +SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE + +LONDON + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Sketches From My Life, by Hobart Pasha + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES FROM MY LIFE *** + +***** This file should be named 16296-8.txt or 16296-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/6/2/9/16296/ + +Produced by Steven Gibbs, Janet Blenkinship and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +https://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +https://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at https://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit https://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including including checks, online payments and credit card +donations. To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/16296-8.zip b/16296-8.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ea6ad04 --- /dev/null +++ b/16296-8.zip diff --git a/16296-h.zip b/16296-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7c3c645 --- /dev/null +++ b/16296-h.zip diff --git a/16296-h/16296-h.htm b/16296-h/16296-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ef077da --- /dev/null +++ b/16296-h/16296-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,6391 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Sketches from my Life. by The Late ADMIRAL HOBART PASHA + </title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .linenum {position: absolute; top: auto; left: 4%;} /* poetry number */ + .blockquot{margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%;} + .pagenum {position: absolute; left: 92%; font-size: smaller; text-align: right;} /* page numbers */ + .sidenote {width: 20%; padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em; + padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em; margin-left: 1em; + float: right; clear: right; margin-top: 1em; + font-size: smaller; background: #eeeeee; border: dashed 1px;} + + .bb {border-bottom: solid 2px;} + .bl {border-left: solid 2px;} + .bt {border-top: solid 2px;} + .br {border-right: solid 2px;} + .bbox {border: solid 2px;} + + .center {text-align: center;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + .u {text-decoration: underline;} + + .caption {font-weight: bold;} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + + .figleft {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: + 1em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .figright {float: right; clear: right; margin-left: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .footnotes {border: dashed 1px;} + .footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + .footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} + .fnanchor {vertical-align: super; font-size: .8em; text-decoration: none;} + + .poem {margin-left:10%; margin-right:10%; text-align: left;} + .poem br {display: none;} + .poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} + .poem span.i0 {display: block; margin-left: 0em;} + .poem span.i2 {display: block; margin-left: 2em;} + .poem span.i4 {display: block; margin-left: 4em;} + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Sketches From My Life, by Hobart Pasha + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Sketches From My Life + By The Late Admiral Hobart Pasha + +Author: Hobart Pasha + +Release Date: July 15, 2005 [EBook #16296] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES FROM MY LIFE *** + + + + +Produced by Steven Gibbs, Janet Blenkinship and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + + + +<h2>SKETCHES</h2> + +<h2>FROM</h2> + +<h2>MY LIFE</h2> + + +<h3>BY THE LATE</h3> + +<h3>ADMIRAL HOBART PASHA</h3> + + + +<h3><i>WITH A PORTRAIT</i></h3> + +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/frontispiece.jpg" alt="frontispiece" title="frontispiece" /></div> + + + +<h4>THIRD EDITION</h4> + + +<p class='center'>LONDON +LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. +1887</p> + +<p class='center'><i>All rights reserved</i> +</p> + +<p class='center'> +PRINTED BY<br /> +SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE<br /> +LONDON<br /> +</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE.</h2> + + +<p>These pages were the last ever written by the brave and true-hearted +sailor of whose life they are a simple record.</p> + +<p>A few months before his death, some of his friends made the fortunate +suggestion that he should put on paper a detailed account of his +sporting adventures, and this idea gradually developed itself until the +work took the present form of an autobiography, written roughly, it is +true, and put together without much method, part of it being dictated at +the Riviera during the last days of the author's fatal illness. Such as +it is, however, we are convinced that the many devoted friends of +Hobart Pasha who now lament his death will be glad to recall in these +'Sketches' the adventures and sports which some of them shared with him, +and the genial disposition and manly qualities which endeared him to +them all.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h3>CONTENTS</h3> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#PREFACE"><b>PREFACE.</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_I"><b>CHAPTER I.—A ROUGH START IN LIFE</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_II"><b>CHAPTER II.—PERILS BY SEA AND LAND</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_III"><b>CHAPTER III.—A TRAGICAL AFFAIR</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_IV"><b>CHAPTER IV.—RIO DE JANEIRO</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_V"><b>CHAPTER V.—SLAVER HUNTING</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_VI"><b>CHAPTER VI.—SLAVER HUNTING (<i>continued</i>)</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_VII"><b>CHAPTER VII.—LOVE AND MURDER</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII"><b>CHAPTER VIII.—THE QUEEN'S YACHT</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_IX"><b>CHAPTER IX.—IN THE BALTIC</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_X"><b>CHAPTER X.—BLOCKADE-RUNNING</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_XI"><b>CHAPTER XI.—EXCITING ADVENTURES</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_XII"><b>CHAPTER XII.—A VISIT TO CHARLESTON</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII"><b>CHAPTER XIII.—NEVER CAUGHT!</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV"><b>CHAPTER XIV.—LAST DAYS ON THE 'D——N'</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_XV"><b>CHAPTER XV.—RICHMOND DURING THE SIEGE</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI"><b>CHAPTER XVI.—THE LAND BLOCKADE</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII"><b>CHAPTER XVII.—I ENTER THE TURKISH NAVY</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII"><b>CHAPTER XVIII.—THE WAR WITH RUSSIA</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX"><b>CHAPTER XIX.—THE TURKISH FLEET DURING THE WAR</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_XX"><b>CHAPTER XX.—SPORT IN TURKEY</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_XXI"><b>CHAPTER XXI.—SPORT AND SOCIETY</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#EXTRACT_FROM_THE_DAILY_TELEGRAPH"><b>EXTRACT FROM THE 'DAILY TELEGRAPH,'</b></a></td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p><a name="Page_-5" id="Page_-5"></a><br /><br /><br /><br /></p> + +<h2>SKETCHES FROM MY LIFE.</h2> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h3><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I.</h3> + +<h4>A ROUGH START IN LIFE.</h4> + + +<p>To attempt to write and publish sketches of my somewhat eventful career +is an act that, I fear, entails the risk of making enemies of some with +whom I have come in contact. But I have arrived at that time of life +when, while respecting, as I do, public opinion, I have hardened +somewhat into indifference of censure. I will, however, endeavour to +write as far as lies in my power (while recording facts) 'in charity +with all men.' This can be done in most part by omitting the names of +ships in which and officers under whom I have served.</p> + +<p>I was born, as the novelists say, of respectable parents, at +Walton-on-the-Wold, in Leicestershire, on April 1, 1822. I will pass +over my early youth, <a name="Page_-4" id="Page_-4"></a>which was, as might be expected, from the time of +my birth until I was ten years of age, without any event that could +prove interesting to those who are kind enough to peruse these pages.</p> + +<p>At the age of ten I was sent to a well-known school at Cheam, in Surrey, +the master of which, Dr. Mayo, has turned out some very distinguished +pupils, of whom I was not fated to be one; for, after a year or so of +futile attempt on my part to learn something, and give promise that I +might aspire to the woolsack or the premiership, I was pronounced +hopeless; and having declared myself anxious to emulate the deeds of +Nelson, and other celebrated sailors, it was decided that I should enter +the navy, and steps were taken to send me at once to sea.</p> + +<p>A young cousin of mine who had been advanced to the rank of captain, +more through the influence of his high connections than from any merit +of his own, condescended to give me a nomination in a ship which he had +just commissioned, and thus I was launched like a young bear, 'having +all his sorrows to come,' into Her Majesty's navy as a naval cadet. I +shall never forget the pride with which I donned my first uniform, +little thinking what I should have to go through. My only consolation +<a name="Page_-3" id="Page_-3"></a>while recounting facts that will make many parents shudder at the +thought of what their children (for they are little more when they join +the service) were liable to suffer, is, that things are now totally +altered, and that under the present régime every officer, whatever his +rank, is treated like a gentleman, or he, or his friends, can know 'the +reason why.'</p> + +<p>I am writing of a period some fifteen or twenty years after Marryat had +astonished the world by his thrilling descriptions of a naval officer's +life and its accompanying troubles. At the time of which I write people +flattered themselves that the sufferings which 'Midshipman Easy' and +'The Naval Officer' underwent while serving the Crown were tales of the +past. I will show by what I am about very briefly to relate that such +was very far from being the case.</p> + +<p>Everything being prepared, and good-bye being said to my friends, who +seemed rather glad to be rid of me, I was allowed to travel from London +on the box of a carriage which contained the great man who had given me +the nomination (captains of men-of-war were very great men in those +days), and after a long weary journey we arrived at the port where +H.M.S.—— was lying ready for sea. On the same night of our arrival the +sailing orders came from the<a name="Page_-2" id="Page_-2"></a> Admiralty; we were to go to sea the next +day, our destination being South America.</p> + +<p>Being a very insignificant individual, I was put into a waterman's boat +with my chest and bed, and was sent on board. On reporting myself, I was +told by the commanding officer not to bother him, but to go to my mess, +where I should be taken care of. On descending a ladder to the lower +deck, I looked about for the mess, or midshipmen's berth, as it was then +called. In one corner of this deck was a dirty little hole about ten +feet long and six feet wide, five feet high. It was lighted by two or +three dips, otherwise tallow candles, of the commonest +description—behold the mess!</p> + +<p>In this were seated six or seven officers and gentlemen, some +twenty-five to thirty years of age, called mates, meaning what are now +called sub-lieutenants. They were drinking rum and water and eating +mouldy biscuits; all were in their shirtsleeves, and really, considering +the circumstances, seemed to be enjoying themselves exceedingly.</p> + +<p>On my appearance it was evident that I was looked upon as an interloper, +for whom, small as I was, room must be found. I was received with a +chorus of exclamations, such as, 'What the deuce does the little fellow +want here?' 'Surely there are <a name="Page_-1" id="Page_-1"></a>enough of us crammed into this beastly +little hole!' 'Oh, I suppose he is some protégé of the captain's,' &c. +&c.</p> + +<p>At last one, more kindly disposed than the rest, addressed me: 'Sorry +there is no more room in here, youngster;' and calling a dirty-looking +fellow, also in his shirtsleeves, said, 'Steward, give this young +gentleman some tea and bread and butter, and get him a hammock to sleep +in.' So I had to be contented to sit on a chest outside the midshipmen's +berth, eat my tea and bread and butter, and turn into a hammock for the +first time in my life, which means 'turned out'—the usual procedure +being to tumble out several times before getting accustomed to this, to +me, novel bedstead. However, once accustomed to the thing, it is easy +enough, and many indeed have been the comfortable nights I have slept in +a hammock, such a sleep as many an occupant of a luxurious four-poster +might envy. At early dawn a noise all around me disturbed my slumbers: +this was caused by all hands—officers and men—being called up to +receive the captain, who was coming alongside to assume his command by +reading his official appointment.</p> + +<p>I shall never forget his first words. He was a handsome young man, with +fine features, darkened, <a name="Page_0" id="Page_0"></a>however, by a deep scowl. As he stepped over +the side he greeted us by saying to the first lieutenant in a loud +voice, 'Put all my boat's crew in irons for neglect of duty.' It seems +that one of them kept him waiting for a couple of minutes when he came +down to embark. After giving this order our captain honoured the +officers who received him with a haughty bow, read aloud his commission, +and retired to his cabin, having ordered the anchor to be weighed in two +hours.</p> + +<p>Accordingly at eight o'clock we stood out to sea, the weather being fine +and wind favourable. At eleven all hands were called to attend the +punishment of the captain's boat's crew. I cannot describe the horror +with which I witnessed six fine sailor-like looking fellows torn by the +frightful cat, for having kept this officer waiting a few minutes on the +pier. Nor will I dwell on this illegal sickening proceeding, as I do not +write to create a sensation, and, thank goodness! such things cannot be +done now.</p> + +<p>I had not much time for reflection, for my turn came next. I believe I +cried or got into somebody's way, or did something to vex the tyrant; +all I know is that I heard myself addressed as 'You young scoundrel,' +and ordered to go to the 'mast-head.'<a name="Page_1" id="Page_1"></a> Go to the mast-head indeed! with +a freshening wind, under whose influence the ship was beginning to heel +over, and an increasing sea that made her jump about like an acrobat. I +had not got my sea legs, and this feat seemed an utter impossibility to +me. I looked with horror up aloft; then came over me the remembrance of +Marryat's story of the lad who refused to go to the mast-head, and who +was hoisted up by the signal halyards. While thinking of this, another +'Well, sir, why don't you obey orders?' started me into the lower +rigging, which I began with the greatest difficulty to climb, expecting +at every step to go headlong overboard.</p> + +<p>A good-natured sailor, seeing the fix I was in, gave me a helping hand, +and up I crawled as far as the maintop. This, I must explain to my +non-nautical reader, is not the mast-head, but a comparatively +comfortable half-way resting-place, from whence one can look about +feeling somewhat secure.</p> + +<p>On looking down to the deck my heart bled to see the poor sailor who had +helped me undergoing punishment for his kind act. I heard myself at the +same time ordered 'to go higher,' and a little higher I did go. Then I +stopped, frightened to death, and almost senseless; terror, however, +seemed to give me presence of mind to cling on, and there<a name="Page_2" id="Page_2"></a> I remained +till some hours afterwards; then I was called down. On reaching the deck +I fainted, and knew no more till I awoke after some time in my hammock.</p> + +<p>Now, I ask anyone, even a martinet at heart, whether such treatment of a +boy, not thirteen years of age, putting his life into the greatest +danger, taking this first step towards breaking his spirit, and in all +probability making him, as most likely had been done to the poor men I +had seen flogged that morning, into a hardened mutinous savage, was not +disgraceful?</p> + +<p>Moreover, it was as close akin to murder as it could be, for I don't +know how it was I didn't fall overboard, and then nothing could have +saved my life. However, as I didn't fall, I was not drowned, and the +effect on me was curious enough. For all I had seen and suffered on that +the opening day of my sea-life made me think for the first time—and I +have never ceased thinking (half a century has passed since then)—how +to oppose tyranny in every shape. Indeed, I have always done so to such +an extent as to have been frequently called by my superiors 'a +troublesome character,' 'a sea lawyer,' &c.</p> + +<p>Perhaps in this way I have been able to effect <a name="Page_3" id="Page_3"></a>something, however +small, towards the entire change that has taken place in the treatment +of those holding subordinate positions in the navy—and that something +has had its use, for the tyrant's hand is by force stayed now, 'for once +and for all.'</p> + +<p>With this little I am satisfied.</p> + +<p>Now let us briefly look into the question, 'Why are men tyrants when +they have it in <i>their power to be so</i>?'</p> + +<p>Unfortunately, as a rule, it appears to come natural to them! What +caused the Indian Mutiny? Let Indian officers and those employed in the +Indian civil service answer that question.</p> + +<p>However, I have only to do with naval officers. My experience tells me +that a man clothed with brief but supreme authority, such as the command +of a man-of-war, in those days when for months and months he was away +from all control of his superiors and out of reach of public censure, is +more frequently apt to listen to the promptings of the devil, which more +or less attack every man, especially when he is alone.</p> + +<p>Away from the softening influence of society and the wholesome fear of +restraint, for a time at least the voice of his better angel is +silenced. Perhaps also the necessarily solitary position of a <a name="Page_4" id="Page_4"></a>commander +of a man-of-war, his long, lonely hours, the utter change from the +jovial life he led previous to being afloat, to say nothing of his liver +getting occasionally out of order, may all tend to make him irritable +and despotic.</p> + +<p>I have seen a captain order his steward to be flogged, almost to death, +because his pea-soup was not hot. I have seen an officer from twenty to +twenty-five years of age made to stand between two guns with a sentry +over him for hours, because he had neglected to see and salute the +tyrant who had come on deck in the dark. And as a proof, though it seems +scarcely credible, of what such men can do when unchecked by fear of +consequences, I will cite the following:—</p> + +<p>On one occasion the captain of whom I have been writing invited a friend +to breakfast with him, and there being, I suppose, a slight monotony in +the conversation, he asked his guest whether he would like, by way of +diversion, to see a man flogged. The amusement was accepted, and a man +<i>was</i> flogged.</p> + +<p>It was about the time I write of that the tyranny practised on board Her +Majesty's ships was slowly but surely dawning upon the public, and a +general outcry against injustice began.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5"></a>This was shown in a very significant manner by the following fact:—</p> + +<p>A post-captain of high rank and powerful connections dared, in +contradiction to naval law, to flog a midshipman. This young officer's +father, happening to be a somewhat influential man, made a stir about +the affair. The honourable captain was tried by court-martial and +severely reprimanded.</p> + +<p>However, I will cut short these perhaps uninteresting details, merely +stating that for three years I suffered most shameful treatment. My last +interview with my amiable cousin is worth relating. The ship was paid +off, and the captain, on going to the hotel at Portsmouth, sent for me +and offered me a seat on his carriage to London. Full of disgust and +horror at the very sight of him, I replied that I would rather 'crawl +home on my hands and knees than go in his carriage,' and so ended our +acquaintance, for I never saw him again.</p> + +<p>It may be asked how, like many others, I tided over all the ill-usage +and the many trials endured during three years. The fact is, I had +become during that period of ill-treatment so utterly hardened to it +that I seemed to feel quite indifferent and didn't care a rap. But +wasn't I glad to be free!</p> + +<p>I had learnt many a lesson of use to me in after <a name="Page_6" id="Page_6"></a>life, the most +important of all being to sympathise with other people's miseries, and +to make allowance for the faults and shortcomings of humanity.</p> + +<p>On the other hand, experience is a severe taskmaster, and it taught me +to be somewhat insubordinate in my notions. I fear I must confess that +this spirit of insubordination has never left me.</p> + +<p>On my arrival at home my relations failed to see in me an ill-used lad +(I was only sixteen), and seemed inclined to disbelieve my yarns; but +this did not alter the facts, nor can I ever forget what I went through +during that 'reign of terror,' as it might well be called.</p> + +<p>People may wonder how was it in the days of Benbow and his successors no +complaints were made. To this I answer, first, that the men of those +days, knowing the utter hopelessness of complaining, preferred to 'grin +and bear;' secondly, that neither officers nor men were supposed to +possess such a thing as feeling, when they had once put their foot on +board a man-of-war. Then there were the almost interminable sea voyages +under sail, during which unspeakable tyrannies could be practised, +unheard of beyond the ship, and unpunished. It must be remembered that +there were no telegraphs, no newspaper correspondents, no questioning +public, <a name="Page_7" id="Page_7"></a>so that the evil side of human nature (so often shown in the +very young in their cruelty to animals) had its swing, fearless of +retribution.</p> + +<p>Let us leave this painful subject, with the consoling thought that we +shall never see the like again.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8"></a></p> +<h3><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II.</h3> + +<h4>PERILS BY SEA AND LAND.</h4> + + +<p>After enjoying a few weeks at home, I was appointed to the Naval Brigade +on service in Spain, acting with the English army, who were there by way +of assisting Queen Christina against Don Carlos.</p> + +<p>The army was a curious collection of regular troops and volunteer +soldiers, the latter what would be called 'Bashi-Bazouks.' The naval +part of the expedition consisted of 1,200 Royal Marines, and a brigade +of sailors under the orders of Lord John Hay. The army (barring the +regulars, who were few in numbers) was composed of about 15,000 of the +greatest rabble I ever saw, commanded by Sir De Lacy Evans.</p> + +<p>For fear any objection or misapprehension be applied to the word +'rabble,' I must at once state that these volunteers, though in +appearance so motley and undisciplined, fought splendidly, and in that +<a name="Page_9" id="Page_9"></a>respect did all honour to their country and the cause they were +fighting for.</p> + +<p>Very soon after we had disembarked I received what is usually called my +'baptism of fire,' that is to say, I witnessed 'the first shot fired in +anger.' The Carlists were pressing hard on the Queen's forces, who were +returning towards the sea; it was of the greatest importance to hold +certain heights that defended San Sebastian and the important port of +Passagis.</p> + +<p>The gallant marines (as usual to the front) were protecting the hill on +which Lord John was standing; the fire was hot and furious. I candidly +admit I was in mortal fear, and when a shell dropped right in the middle +of us, and was, I thought, going to burst (as it did), I fell down on my +face. Lord John, who was close to me, and looking as cool as a cucumber, +gave me a severe kick, saying, 'Get up, you cowardly young rascal; are +you not ashamed of yourself?'</p> + +<p>I did get up and <i>was</i> ashamed of myself. From that moment to this I +have never been hard upon those who flinched at the first fire they were +under. My pride helped me out of the difficulty, and I flinched no more. +For an hour or so the battle raged furiously.</p> + +<p>By degrees all fear left me; I felt only excitement <a name="Page_10" id="Page_10"></a>and anger, and when +we (a lot I had to do with it!) drove the enemy back in the utmost +confusion, wasn't I proud!</p> + +<p>When all was over Lord John called me, and after apologising in the most +courteous manner for the kick, he gave me his hand (poor fellow! he had +already lost one arm while fighting for his country), and said: 'Don't +be discouraged, youngster; you are by no means the first who has shown +alarm on being for the first time under fire.' So I was happy.</p> + +<p>It is not my intention to give in detail the events that I witnessed +during that disastrous civil war in Spain; suffice it that after much +hard fighting the Carlists were driven back into their mountains so much +discouraged that they eventually renounced a hopeless cause; and at all +events for a long period order was restored in Spain.</p> + +<p>After serving under Lord John Hay for six or seven months, I was +appointed to another ship, which was ordered to my old station, South +America.</p> + +<p>The captain of my new ship was in every sense a gentleman, and although +a strict disciplinarian, was just and kind-hearted. From the captain +downwards every officer was the same in thought and deed, so we were all +as happy as sand-boys. It was then that I began to realise a fact of +which before I had only <a name="Page_11" id="Page_11"></a>a notion—namely, that discipline can be +maintained without undue severity, to say nothing of cruelty, and that +service in the navy could be made a pleasure as well as a duty to one's +country.</p> + +<p>After visiting Rio de Janeiro, we were sent to the River Plate; there we +remained nearly a year, during which time several adventures which I +will relate occurred, both concerning my duties and my amusements.</p> + +<p>I must tell my readers that from earliest boyhood I had a passionate +love for shooting; and, through the kindness of my commanding officer +while at Monte Video, I was allowed constantly to indulge in sport.</p> + +<p>On one occasion my captain, who was a keen sportsman, took me with him +out shooting. We had a famous day's sport, filled our game bags with +partridges, ducks, and snipe, and were returning home on horseback when +a solitary horseman, a nasty-looking fellow, armed to the teeth, rode up +to us. As I knew a little Spanish we began to talk about shooting, &c. +&c.; then he asked me to shoot a bird for him (the reason why he did +this will be seen immediately). I didn't like the cut of his jib, so +rather snubbed him. However, he continued to ride on with us, to within +half a mile of where our boat <a name="Page_12" id="Page_12"></a>was waiting to take us on board. I must +explain our relative positions as we rode along. The captain was on my +left, I next to him, and the man was on my right, riding very near to +me. All of a sudden he exclaimed in Spanish, 'Now is the time or never,' +threw his right leg over the pommel of his saddle, slipped on to the +ground, drew his knife, dashed at me, and after snatching my gun from my +hand, stuck his knife (as he thought) into me. Then he rushed towards +the captain, pulling the trigger of my gun, and pointing straight at the +latter's head; the gun was not loaded, having only the old percussion +caps on. (Now I saw why he wanted me to fire, so that he might know +whether my gun was loaded; but the old caps evidently deceived him.)</p> + +<p>All this was the work of a very few seconds. Now what was my chief +doing? Seeing a row going on, he was dismounting; in fact, was half-way +off his horse, only one foot in the stirrup, when the man made the rush +at him. Finding me stuck to my saddle (for the ruffian's knife had gone +through my coat and pinned me), and the fellow snapping my gun, which +was pointed at him, he as coolly as possible put his gun over his +horse's shoulder and shot the would-be murderer dead on the spot. Then +turning to me he said quite calmly, 'I call you to witness <a name="Page_13" id="Page_13"></a>that that +man intended to murder me.' How differently all would have ended had my +gun been loaded! The villain would have shot my chief, taken both guns, +and galloped off, leaving me ignominiously stuck to my saddle.</p> + +<p>The audacity of this one man attacking us two armed sportsmen showed the +immense confidence these prairie people feel in themselves, especially +in their superior horsemanship. However, the fellow caught a Tartar on +this occasion.</p> + +<p>As for me, the knife had gone, as I said, through my loose shooting +jacket just below the waist, through the upper part of my trousers, and +so into the saddle, without even touching my skin. I have kept the knife +in memory of my lucky escape.</p> + +<p>While laying at Monte Video there was on each side of us a French +man-of-war, the officers of which were very amiably inclined, and many +were the dinners and parties exchanged between us.</p> + +<p>In those days the interchange of our respective languages was very +limited on both sides, so much so, that our frantic efforts to +understand each other were a constant source of amusement. A French +midshipman and myself, however, considered ourselves equal to the +occasion, and professed linguists; so on the principle that in the 'land +of the blind the one-<a name="Page_14" id="Page_14"></a>eyed man is king,' we were the swells of the +festivities.</p> + +<p>I remember on one occasion, when the birthday of Louis Philippe was to +be celebrated, my French midshipman friend came on board officially and +said, 'Sir, the first of the month is the feast of the King; you must +fire the gun.' 'All right,' said we. Accordingly, we loaded our guns in +the morning, preparatory to saluting at noon. It was raining heavily all +the forenoon, so we had not removed what is called the tompions (to my +unprofessional reader I may say that the tompion is a very large piece +of wood made to fit into the muzzle, for the purpose of preventing wet +from penetrating). To this tompion is, or used to be, attached a large +piece of wadding, what for I never rightly understood.</p> + +<p>Now it seems that those whose duty it was to attend to it had neglected +to take these things out of the guns.</p> + +<p>On the first gun being fired from the French ship we began our salute. +The French ships were close alongside of us, one on either side. The +gunner who fires stands with the hand-glass to mark the time between +each discharge. On this occasion he began his orders thus: 'Fire, port;' +then suddenly recollecting that the tompions were not removed he added,<a name="Page_15" id="Page_15"></a> +'Tompions are in, sir.' No one moved. The gunner could not leave his +work of marking time. Again he gave the order, 'Fire, starboard,' +repeating, 'Tompions are in, sir,' and so on till half the broadside had +been fired before the tompions had been taken out. It is difficult to +describe the consternation on board the French vessels, whose decks were +crowded with strangers (French merchants, &c.), invited from the shore +to do honour to their King's fête. These horrid tompions and their +adjuncts went flying on to their decks, from which every one scampered +in confusion. It was lucky our guns did not burst.</p> + +<p>This was a most awkward dilemma for all of us. I was sent on board to +apologise. The French captain, with the courtesy of his nation, took the +mishap most good-humouredly, begging me to return the tompions to my +captain, as they had no occasion for them. So no bad feeling was +created, though shortly after this contretemps an affair of so serious a +nature took place, that a certain coldness crept in between ourselves +and our ci-devant friends.</p> + +<p>It seems that there had been of late several desertions from the French +vessels lying at Monte Video, great inducements of very high wages being +offered by the revolutionary party in Buenos Ayres for men to serve +them. The French commander <a name="Page_16" id="Page_16"></a>therefore determined to search all vessels +leaving Monte Video for other ports in the River Plate—a somewhat +arbitrary proceeding, and one certain to lead to misunderstanding sooner +or later.</p> + +<p>On the occasion I refer to, a vessel which, though not under the English +flag, had in some way or other obtained English protection, was leaving +the port; so we sent an officer and a party of armed men to prevent her +being interfered with. I was of the party, which was commanded by our +second lieutenant. Our doing this gave great offence to the French +commander, who shortly after we had gone on board also sent a party of +armed men, with positive orders to search the vessel at all risks. On +our part we were ordered not to allow the vessel to be searched or +interfered with. The French officer, a fine young fellow, came on board +with his men and repeated his orders to Lieutenant C——. The vessel, I +may mention, was a schooner of perhaps a couple of hundred tons, about +130 feet long. We had taken possession of the after-part of the deck, +the French crew established themselves on the fore-part.</p> + +<p>Never was there a more awkward position. The men on both sides loaded +and cocked their muskets. The English and French officers stood close to +one another. The former said, 'Sir, you have no business <a name="Page_17" id="Page_17"></a>here, this +vessel is under English protection. I give you five minutes to leave or +take the consequences.' The other replied, 'Sir, I am ordered to search +the vessel, and search her I will.' They both seemed to, and I am sure +did, mean business; for myself, I got close to my lieutenant and cocked +a pistol, intending to shoot the French officer at the least show of +fighting. Nevertheless, I thought it a shockingly cruel and inhuman +thing to begin a cold-blooded fight under such circumstances.</p> + +<p>However, to obey orders is the duty of every man. Lieutenant C—— +looked at his watch; two minutes to spare. The marines were ordered to +prepare, and I thought at the end of the two minutes the deck of the +little vessel would have been steeped in blood. Just then, in the +distance, there appeared a boat pulling towards us at full speed; it +seems that wiser counsels had prevailed between the captains of the two +ships: the French were told to withdraw and leave the vessel in our +hands.</p> + +<p>I was much amused at the cordial way in which the two lieutenants shook +hands on receiving this order. There would indeed have been a fearful +story to tell had it not arrived in time; for I never saw determination +written so strongly on men's countenances as on those of both parties, +so nearly <a name="Page_18" id="Page_18"></a>engaged in what must have proved a most bloody fight.</p> + +<p>After this incident cordial relations were never re-established between +ourselves and our French friends; fortunately, shortly afterwards we +sailed for Buenos Ayres.</p> + +<p>Buenos Ayres, that paradise of pretty women, good cheer, and all that is +nice to the sailor who is always ready for a lark! We at once went in +for enjoying ourselves to our heart's content; we began, every one of +us, by falling deeply in love before we had been there forty-eight +hours—I say every one, because such is a fact.</p> + +<p>My respectable captain, who had been for many years living as a +confirmed bachelor with his only relative, an old spinster sister, with +whom he chummed, and I fancy had hardly been known to speak to another +woman, was suddenly perceived walking about the street with a large +bouquet in his hand, his hair well oiled, his coat (generally so loose +and comfortable-looking) buttoned tight to show off his figure; and then +he took to sporting beautiful kid gloves, and even to dancing. He could +not be persuaded to go on board at any cost, while he had never left his +ship before, except for an occasional day's shooting. In short, he had +fallen hopelessly in <a name="Page_19" id="Page_19"></a>love with a buxom Spanish lady with lustrous eyes +as black as her hair, the widow of a murdered governor of the town.</p> + +<p>Our first and second lieutenants followed suit; both were furiously in +love; and, as I said, every one, even a married man, one of my +messmates, fell down and worshipped the lovely (and lovely they were, +and no mistake) Spanish girls of Buenos Ayres, whose type of beauty is +that which only the blue blood of Spain can boast of. Now, reader, don't +be shocked, I fell in love myself, and my love affair proved of a more +serious nature, at least in its results, than that of the others, +because, while the daughter (she was sixteen, and I seventeen) responded +to my affection, her mother, a handsome woman of forty, chose to fall in +love with me herself.</p> + +<p>This was rather a disagreeable predicament, for I didn't, of course, +return the mother's affection a bit, while I was certainly dreadfully +spoony on the daughter.</p> + +<p>To make a long story short, the girl and I, like two fools as we were, +decided to run away together, and run away we did. I should have been +married if the mother hadn't run after us. She didn't object to our +being married, but, in the meantime, she remained with us, and she +managed to make the <a name="Page_20" id="Page_20"></a>country home we had escaped to, with the intention +of settling down there, so unbearable, that, luckily for me as regards +my future, I contrived to get away, and went as fast as I could on board +my ship for refuge, never landing again during our stay at Buenos Ayres.</p> + +<p>Fortunately, shortly afterwards we were ordered away, and so ended my +first love affair.</p> + +<p>I shall never forget the melancholy, woebegone faces of my captain and +brother officers on our re-assembling on board. It was really most +ludicrous. However, a sea voyage which included several sharp gales of +wind soon erased all sad memories; things gradually 'brightened,' and +ere many weeks had passed all on board H.M.S.—— resumed their usual +appearance.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21"></a></p> +<h3><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III.</h3> + +<h4>A TRAGICAL AFFAIR.</h4> + + +<p>Whilst I was at Buenos Ayres I had the good luck to visit the +independent province of Paraguay, which my readers must have heard +spoken of, sometimes with admiration, sometimes with sneers, as the +hot-bed of Jesuitism. Those who sneer say that the Jesuit fathers who +left Spain under Martin Garcia formed this colony in the River Plate +entirely in accordance with the principles their egotism and love of +power dictated. It may be so; it is possible that the Jesuits were wrong +in the conclusions they came to as regards the governing or guiding of +human nature; all I can say is, that the perfect order reigning +throughout the colony they had formed, the respect for the clergy, the +cheerful obedience to laws, the industry and peaceful happiness one saw +at every step, made an impression on me I have never forgotten; and when +I compare it with the discord, the crime, and <a name="Page_22" id="Page_22"></a>the hatred of all +authority which is now prevailing, alas! in most civilised countries, I +look back to what I saw in Paraguay with a sigh of regret that such +things are of the past. It was beautiful to see the respect paid to the +Church (the acknowledged ruler of the place), the cleanliness and +comfort of the farms and villages, the good-will and order that +prevailed amongst the natives. It was most interesting to visit the +schools, where only so much learning was introduced as was considered +necessary for the minds of the industrious population, without rendering +them troublesome to the colony or to themselves. Though the inhabitants +were mostly of the fiery and ungovernable Spanish race, who had mixed +with the wild aborigines, it is remarkable that they remained quiet and +submissive.</p> + +<p>To prevent pernicious influences reaching this 'happy valley,' the +strictest regulations were maintained as regards strangers visiting the +colony.</p> + +<p>The River Plate, which, coming down from the Andes through hundreds of +miles of rich country, flows through Paraguay, was unavailable to +commerce owing to this law of exclusiveness, which prevented even the +water which washed the shores being utilised. However, about the time I +speak of the English government had determined, in the general +<a name="Page_23" id="Page_23"></a>interests of trade, to oppose this monopoly, and to open a way of +communication up the river by force if necessary. The Paraguayans +refused to accept the propositions made by the English, and prepared to +fight for their so-called rights. They threw a formidable barrier across +the stream, and made a most gallant resistance. It was on this occasion +that Captain (now Admiral) H—— performed the courageous action which +covered him with renown for the rest of his life. The enemy had, amongst +other defences, placed a heavy iron chain across the river. This chain +it was absolutely necessary to remove, and the gallant officer I refer +to, who commanded the attack squadron, set a splendid example to us all +by dashing forward and cutting with a cold chisel the links of this +chain. The whole time he was thus at work he was exposed to a tremendous +fire, having two men killed and two wounded out of the six he took with +him. This deed, now almost forgotten by the public, can never be effaced +from the memory of those who saw it done. That the fight was a severe +one is evident from the fact that the vessel I belonged to had 107 shots +in her hull, and thirty-five out of seventy men killed and wounded.</p> + +<p>It was after we had thus forced ourselves into intercourse with the +Paraguayans that I saw an <a name="Page_24" id="Page_24"></a>instance of want of tact which struck me as +most remarkable. Fighting being over, diplomacy stepped in, and a man of +somewhat high rank in that service was sent to make friendly overtures +to the authorities. Can it be believed (I do not say it as a sneer +against diplomacy, for this blunder was really <i>unique</i>), this big man +had scarcely finished the pipe of peace which he smoked with the +authorities, when he proposed to introduce vaccination and tracts among +the people? Badly as the poor fellows felt the licking they had +received, and much as they feared another should they give trouble to +the invaders, they so resented our representative's meddling that he +found it better to beat a hasty retreat, and to send a wiser man in his +stead. But their fate was sealed, and from the moment the stranger put +his foot into this interesting country dates its entire change. The +system that the Jesuits established was quickly done away with. Paraguay +is now a part of the Argentine Republic, it is generally at war with +some of its neighbours, and its inhabitants are poor, disorderly, and +wretched.</p> + +<p>As I shall have, while telling the story of my life, to relate more +serious events, I will, after recounting one more yarn, not weary my +readers with the little uninteresting details of my youthful adventures, +<a name="Page_25" id="Page_25"></a>but pass over the next three years or so, at which time, after having +returned to England, I was appointed to another ship going to South +America, for the purpose of putting down the slave trade in the Brazils. +The adventure to which I have referred was one that made a deep +impression on my mind, as being of a most tragic nature.</p> + +<p>While at Rio de Janeiro we were in the habit of visiting among the +people, attending dances, &c. I always remarked that the pretty young +Brazilian girls liked dancing with the fresh young English sailors +better than with their mud-coloured companions of the male sex, the +inhabitants of the country.</p> + +<p>At the time I write of the English were not liked by the Brazilians, +partly on account of the raid we were then making on the slave trade, +partly through the usual jealousy always felt by the ignorant towards +the enlightened. So with the men we were seldom or ever on good terms, +but with the girls somehow sailors always contrive to be friends.</p> + +<p>It was at one of the dances I have spoken of that the scene I am about +to describe took place.</p> + +<p>Among the pretty girls who attended the ball was one prettier perhaps +than any of her companions; indeed, she was called the belle of Rio +Janeiro. I will not attempt to portray her, but I must own she <a name="Page_26" id="Page_26"></a>was far +too bewitching for the peace of heart of her many admirers, and +unhappily she was an unmitigated flirt in every sense of the word.</p> + +<p>Now there was a young Brazilian nobleman who had, as he thought, been +making very successful progress towards winning this girl's heart—if +she had a heart. All was progressing smoothly enough till these hapless +English sailors arrived.</p> + +<p>Then, perhaps with the object of making her lover jealous (a very common +though dangerous game), Mademoiselle pretended (for I presume it was +pretence) to be immensely smitten with one of them—a handsome young +midshipman whom we will call A.</p> + +<p>At the ball where the incident I refer to occurred, she danced once with +him, twice with him, and was about to start with him a third time, when, +to the astonishment of the lookers-on, of whom I formed part, the young +Brazilian rushed into the middle of the room where the couple were +standing, walked close up to them and spat in A.'s face.</p> + +<p>Before the aggressor could look round him, he found himself sprawling on +the floor, knocked by the angry Briton into what is commonly called 'a +cocked hat.' Not a word was spoken. A. wiped his face, led his partner +to a seat and came straight to me, putting his arm in mine and leading +me into the <a name="Page_27" id="Page_27"></a>verandah. The Brazilian picked himself up and came also +into the verandah; in less time than I can write it a hostile meeting +was settled, pistols were procured, and we (I say we, because I had +undertaken to act as A.'s friend, and the Brazilian had also engaged a +friend) sauntered into the garden as if for a stroll.</p> + +<p>It was a most lovely moonlight night, such a night as can only be seen +in the tropics.</p> + +<p>I should mention that the chief actors in the coming conflict had +neither of them seen twenty years, and we their seconds were +considerably under that age. The aggressor, whose jealous fury had +driven him almost to madness when he committed an outrageous affront on +a stranger, was a tall, handsome, dark-complexioned young fellow. A. was +also very good-looking, with a baby complexion, blue eyes and light +curly hair, a very type of the Saxon race.</p> + +<p>They both looked determined and calm. After proceeding a short distance +we found a convenient spot in a lovely glade. It was almost as clear as +day, so bright was the moonlight. The distance was measured (fourteen +paces), the pistols carefully loaded. Before handing them to the +principals we made an effort at arrangement, an effort too +con<a name="Page_28" id="Page_28"></a>temptuously received to be insisted upon, and we saw that any +attempt at reconciliation would be of no avail without the exchange of +shots; so, handing to each his weapon, we retired a short distance to +give the signal for firing, which was to be done by my dropping a +pocket-handkerchief. It was an anxious moment even for us, who were only +lookers-on. I gave the words, one, two, three, and dropped the +handkerchief.</p> + +<p>The pistols went off simultaneously. To my horror I saw the young +Brazilian spin round and drop to the ground, his face downwards; we +rushed up to him and found that the bullet from A.'s pistol had gone +through his brain. He was stone dead.</p> + +<p>Then the solemnity of the whole affair dawned on us, but there was no +time for thought. Something must be done at once, for revenge quick and +fearful was sure to follow such a deed like lightning.</p> + +<p>We determined to hurry A. off to his ship, and I begged the young +Brazilian to go into the house and break the sad news. The poor fellow, +though fearfully cut up, behaved like a gentleman, walking slowly away +so as to give us time to escape. As we passed the scene of gaiety the +sounds of music and dancing were going on, just as when we left it. How +<a name="Page_29" id="Page_29"></a>little the jovial throng dreamt of the tragedy that had just been +enacted within a few yards of them; of the young life cut down on its +threshold!</p> + +<p>We got on board all right, but such a terrible row was made about the +affair that the ship to which A. belonged had to go to sea the next day, +and did not appear again at Rio de Janeiro.</p> + +<p>I, though not belonging to that vessel, was not allowed to land for many +months.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30"></a></p> +<h3><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h3> + +<h4>RIO DE JANEIRO.</h4> + + +<p>One word about Rio de Janeiro. Rio, as it is generally called, is +perhaps one of the most lovely spots in the world. The beautiful natural +bay and harbour are unequalled throughout the whole universe. Still, +like the Bosphorus, the finest effect is made by Rio de Janeiro when +looked at from the water. In the days of which I write yellow fever was +unknown; now that fearful disease kills its thousands, aye, tens of +thousands, yearly. The climate, though hot at times, is very good; in +the summer the mornings are hot to a frying heat, but the sea breeze +comes in regularly as clockwork, and when it blows everything is cool +and nice. Life is indeed a lazy existence; there is no outdoor amusement +of any kind to be had in the neighbourhood. As to shooting, there are +only a few snipe to be found here and there, and while looking for these +you must beware of snakes and other venomous <a name="Page_31" id="Page_31"></a>reptiles, which abound +both in the country and in town. I remember a terrible fright a large +picnic party, at which I assisted, was thrown into while lunching in the +garden of a villa, almost in the town of Rio, by a lady jumping up from +her seat with a deadly whip-snake hanging on her dress. I once myself +sat on an adder who put his fangs through the woollen stuff of my +inexpressibles and could not escape. The same thing happened with the +lady's dress; in that case also we caught the snake, as it could not +disentangle its fangs.</p> + +<p>In the country near Rio there are great snakes called the anaconda, a +sort of boa-constrictor on a large scale. Once, while walking in the +woods with some friends, we found a little Indian boy dead on the +ground, one of these big snakes lying within a foot or so of him, also +dead; the snake had a poisoned arrow in his brain, which evidently had +been shot at him by the poor little boy, whose blow-pipe was lying by +his side. The snake must have struck the boy before it died, as we found +a wound on the boy's neck. This reptile measured twenty-two feet in +length.</p> + +<p>By the way, a well-known author, Mrs. B——, tells a marvellous story +about these snakes. She says that they always go in pairs, have great +affection for <a name="Page_32" id="Page_32"></a>each other, and are prepared on all occasions to resent +affronts offered to either of them. She narrates that a peasant once +killed a big anaconda, and that the other, or chum snake, followed the +man several miles to the house where he had taken the dead one, got in +by the window, and crushed the destroyer of his friend to death. I +expect that some salt is necessary to swallow this tale, but such is the +statement Mrs. B—— makes.</p> + +<p>The most lovely birds and butterflies are found near Rio, and the finest +collections in the world are made there. The white people are Portuguese +by origin—not a nice lot to my fancy, though the ladies are as usual +always nice, especially when young; they get old very soon through +eating sweets and not taking exercise. There is very little poverty +except among the free blacks, who are lazy and idle and somewhat +vicious. I always have believed that the black man is an inferior +animal—in fact, that the dark races are meant to be drawers of water +and hewers of wood. I do not deny that they have souls to be saved, but +I believe that their rôle in this world is to attend on the white man. +The black is, and for years has been, educated on perfect equality with +the white man, and has had every chance of improving himself—with what +result? You could almost count <a name="Page_33" id="Page_33"></a>on your fingers the names of those who +have distinguished themselves in the battle of life.</p> + +<p>Sometimes, while cruising off the coast of Rio de Janeiro looking out +for slave vessels, we passed a very monotonous life. The long and +fearfully hot mornings before the sea breeze sets in, the still longer +and choking nights with the thermometer at 108°, were trying in the +extreme to those accustomed to the fresh air of northern climates; but +sailors have always something of the 'Mark Tapley' about them and are +generally jolly under all circumstances, and so it was with me. One day, +while longing for something to do, I discovered that the crew had been +ordered to paint the ship outside; as a pastime I put on old clothes and +joined the painting party. Planks were hung round the ship by ropes +being tied to each end of the plank; on these the men stood to do their +work. We had not been employed there very long when there was a cry from +the deck that the ship was surrounded by sharks. It seems that the +butcher had killed a sheep, whose entrails, having been thrown +overboard, attracted these fearful brutes round the ship in great +numbers. As may be imagined, this report created a real panic among the +painters, for I believe we all feared a shark more than an enemy armed +to the teeth. I at once made <a name="Page_34" id="Page_34"></a>a hurried movement to get off my plank. As +I did so the rope at one end slipped off, and so threw the piece of +wood, to which I had to hang as on a rope, up and down the vessel's +side, bringing my feet to within a very few inches of the water. On +looking downwards I saw a great shark in the water, almost within +snapping distance of my legs. I can swear that my hair stood on end with +fear; though I held on like grim death, I felt myself going, yes, going, +little by little right into the beast's jaws. At that moment, only just +in time, a rope was thrown over my head from the deck above me, and I +was pulled from my fearfully perilous position, more dead than alive. +Now for revenge on the brutes who would have eaten me if they could! It +was a dead calm, the sharks were still swimming round the ship waiting +for their prey. We got a lot of hooks with chains attached to them, on +which we put baits of raw meat. I may as well mention a fact not +generally known, viz., that a shark must turn on his back before opening +his capacious mouth sufficiently to feed himself; when he turns he means +business, and woe to him who is within reach of the man-eater's jaws. On +this occasion what we offered them was merely a piece of meat, and most +ravenously did they rush, turn on their backs, and swallow it, <a name="Page_35" id="Page_35"></a>only to +find that they were securely hooked, and could not bite through the +chains that were fast to the hooks—in fact, that it was all up with +them. Orders had been given by the commanding officer that the sharks +were not to be pulled on board, partly from the dangerous action of +their tails and jaws even when half dead, partly on account of the +confusion they make while floundering about the decks; so we hauled them +close to the top of the water, fired a bullet into their brains and cut +them loose. We killed thirty that morning in this way, some of them +eight to ten feet long.</p> + +<p>The most horrid thing I know is to see, as I have done on more than one +occasion, a man taken by a shark. You hear a fearful scream as the poor +wretch is dragged down, and nothing remains to tell the dreadful tale +excepting that the water is deeply tinged with blood on the spot where +the unfortunate man disappeared. These ravenous man-eaters scent blood +from an enormous distance, and their prominent upper fin, which is +generally out of the water as they go along at a tremendous pace, may be +seen at a great distance, and they can swim at the rate of a mile a +minute. A shark somewhat reminds me of the torpedo of the present day, +and in my humble opinion is much more dangerous.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36"></a>Once we caught a large shark. On opening him we found in his inside a +watch and chain quite perfect. Could it have been that some poor wretch +had been swallowed and digested, and the watch only remained as being +indigestible?</p> + +<p>It is strange to see the contempt with which the black man treats a +shark, the more especially when he has to do with him in shallow water. +A negro takes a large knife and diving under the shark cuts its bowels +open. If the water is deep the shark can go lower down than the man and +so save himself, and if the nigger don't take care he will eat him; thus +the black man never goes into deep water if he can help it, for he is +always expecting a shark.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37"></a></p> +<h3><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V.</h3> + +<h4>SLAVER HUNTING.</h4> + + +<p>Shortly after the duel at Rio I went to England, but to be again +immediately appointed to a vessel on the Brazilian station.</p> + +<p>It was at the time when philanthropists of Europe were crying aloud for +the abolition of the African slave trade, never taking for a moment into +consideration the fact that the state of the savage African black +population was infinitely bettered by their being conveyed out of the +misery and barbarism of their own country, introduced to civilization, +given opportunities of embracing religion, and taught that to kill and +eat each other was not to be considered as the principal pastime among +human beings.</p> + +<p>At the period I allude to (from 1841 to 1845) the slave trade was +carried out on a large scale between the coast of Africa and South +America; and a most lucrative trade it was, if the poor devils of +<a name="Page_38" id="Page_38"></a>negroes could be safely conveyed alive from one coast to the other. I +say if, because the risk of capture was so great that the poor wretches, +men, women, and children, were packed like herrings in the holds of the +fast little sailing vessels employed, and to such a fearful extent was +this packing carried on that, even if the vessels were not captured, +more than half the number of blacks embarked died from suffocation or +disease before arriving at their destination, yet that half was +sufficient to pay handsomely those engaged in the trade.</p> + +<p>On this point I propose giving examples and proofs hereafter, merely +remarking, <i>en passant</i>, that had the negroes been brought over in +vessels that were not liable to be chased and captured, the owners of +such vessels would naturally, considering the great value of their +cargo, have taken precautions against overcrowding and disease. Now, let +us inquire as to the origin of these poor wretched Africans becoming +slaves, and of their being sold to the white man. It was, briefly +speaking, in this wise. On a war taking place between two tribes in +Africa, a thing of daily occurrence, naturally many prisoners were made +on both sides. Of these prisoners those who were not tender enough to be +made into ragoût were taken down to the sea-coast and sold to the +<a name="Page_39" id="Page_39"></a>slave-dealers, who had wooden barracks established ready for their +reception.</p> + +<p>Into these barracks, men, women, and children, most of whom were kept in +irons to prevent escape, were bundled like cattle, there to await +embarkation on board the vessels that would convey them across the sea.</p> + +<p>Now, as the coast was closely watched on the African side, to prevent +the embarkation of slaves, as it was on the Brazilian side, to prevent +their being landed, the poor wretches were frequently waiting for weeks +on the seashore undergoing every species of torment.</p> + +<p>At last the vessel to carry off a portion of them arrived, when they +were rushed on board and thrown into the hold regardless of sex, like +bags of sand, and the slaver started on her voyage for the Brazils. +Perhaps while on her way she was chased by an English cruiser, in which +case, so it has often been known to happen, a part of the living cargo +would be thrown overboard, trusting that the horror of leaving human +beings to be drowned would compel the officers of the English cruiser to +slacken their speed while picking the poor wretches up, and thus give +the slaver a better chance of escape. (This I have seen done myself, +fortunately unavailingly.)</p> + +<p><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40"></a>I will now ask the reader to bring his thoughts back to the coast of +Brazil, where a good look-out was being kept for such vessels as I have +mentioned as leaving the African coast with live cargo on board bound +for the Brazilian waters. Rio de Janeiro, the capital of Brazil, was the +headquarters of the principal slave-owners. It was there that all +arrangements were made regarding the traffic in slaves, the despatch of +the vessels in which they were to be conveyed, the points on which they +were to land, &c., and it was at Rio that the slave-vessels made their +rendezvous before and after their voyages. It was there also that the +spies on whose information we acted were to be found, and double-faced +scoundrels they were, often giving information which caused the capture +of a small vessel with few slaves on board, while the larger vessel, +with twice the number, was landing her cargo unmolested.</p> + +<p>As for myself, I was at the time of life when enterprise was necessary +for my existence, and so keenly did I join in the slave-hunting mania +that I found it dangerous to land in the town of Rio for fear of +assassination.</p> + +<p>My captain, seeing how enthusiastic I was in the cause, which promised +prize-money if not renown, encouraged me by placing me in a position +that, <a name="Page_41" id="Page_41"></a>as a humble midshipman, I was scarcely entitled to, gave me his +confidence, and thus made me still more zealous to do something, if only +to show my gratitude.</p> + +<p>Having picked up all the information possible as regarded the movements +of the slave vessels, we started on a cruise, our minds set particularly +on the capture of a celebrated craft called the 'Lightning,' a vessel +renowned for her great success as a slave ship, whose captain declared +(this made our mission still more exciting) that he would show fight, +especially if attacked by English men-of-war boats when away from the +protection of their ships.</p> + +<p>I must mention that it was the custom of the cruisers on the coast of +Brazil to send their boats on detached service, they (the boats) going +in one direction while the vessels they belonged to went in another, +only communicating every two or three days. Proud indeed for me was the +moment when, arriving near to the spot on the coast where the +'Lightning' was daily expected with her live cargo, I left my ship in +command of three boats, viz., a ten-oared cutter and two four-oared +whale boats. I had with me in all nineteen men, well armed and prepared, +as I imagined, for every emergency. The night we left our ship we +anchored late under the shelter of a small island, and all hands being +tired from a <a name="Page_42" id="Page_42"></a>long row in a hot sun, I let my men go to sleep during the +short tropical darkness. As soon as the day was breaking all hands were +alert, and we saw with delight a beautiful rakish-looking brig, crammed +with slaves, close to the island behind which we had taken shelter, +steering for a creek on the mainland a short distance from us. I ought +to mention that the island in question was within four miles of this +creek. We immediately prepared for action, and while serving out to each +man his store of cartridges, I found to my horror that the percussion +tubes and caps for the boat's gun, the muskets and pistols, had been +left on board the ship. What was to be done? no use swearing at anybody. +However, we pulled boldly out from under the shelter of the island, +thinking to intimidate the slaver into heaving to. In this we were +grievously mistaken.</p> + +<p>The vessel with her men standing ready at their guns seemed to put on a +defiant air as she sailed majestically past us, and although we managed +with lucifer matches to fire the boat's gun once or twice, she treated +us with sublime contempt and went on her way into the creek, at the rate +of six or seven miles an hour. Though difficult to attack the vessel in +the day time without firearms, I determined if possible not to lose +altogether this splendid brig. I <a name="Page_43" id="Page_43"></a>waited therefore till after sunset, +and then pulled silently into the creek with muffled oars. There was our +friend securely lashed to the rocks. We dashed on board with drawn +cutlasses, anticipating an obstinate resistance. We got possession of +the deck in no time, but on looking round for someone to fight with, saw +nothing but a small black boy who, having been roused up from a sort of +dog-kennel in which he had been sleeping, first looked astonished and +then burst out laughing, pointing as he did so to the shore. Yes, the +shore to which the slaver brig was lashed was the spot where seven +hundred slaves (or nearly that number, for we found three or four +half-dead negroes in the hold) and the crew had all gone, and left us +lamenting our bad luck. However, I took possession of the vessel as she +lay, and though threatened day and night by the natives, who kept up a +constant fire from the neighbouring heights and seemed preparing to +board us, maintained our hold upon the craft until the happy arrival of +my ship, which, with a few rounds of grape, soon cleared the +neighbourhood of our assailants. I may mention that, in the event of our +having been boarded, we had prepared a warm reception for our enemies in +the shape of buckets of boiling oil mixed with lime, which would have +been poured on their devoted heads while in the <a name="Page_44" id="Page_44"></a>act of climbing up the +side. As they kept, however, at a respectful distance, our remedy was +not tried. The vessel, a splendid brig of 400 tons, was then pulled off +her rocky bed, and I was sent in charge of her to Rio de Janeiro. And +now comes the strangest part of my adventures on this occasion.</p> + +<p>On the early morning after I had parted company with my commanding +officer, before the dawn, I ran accidentally right into a schooner +loaded with slaves, also coming from Africa, bound to the same place as +had been the brig, my prize.</p> + +<p>Without the slightest hesitation, before the shock and surprise caused +by the collision had given time for reflection or resistance, I took +possession of this vessel, put the crew in irons, and hoisted English +colours. There were 460 Africans on board, and what a sight it was!</p> + +<p>The schooner had been eighty-five days at sea. They were short of water +and provisions; three distinct diseases—namely, small-pox, ophthalmia, +and diarrhœa in its worst form—had broken out while coming across among +the poor doomed wretches.</p> + +<p>On opening the hold we saw a mass of arms, legs, and bodies all crushed +together. Many of the bodies to whom these limbs belonged were dead or +dying. In fact, when we had made some sort of <a name="Page_45" id="Page_45"></a>clearance among them we +found in that fearful hold eleven dead bodies lying among the living +freight. Water! water! was the cry. Many of them as soon as free jumped +into the sea, partly from the delirious state they were in, partly +because they had been told that, if taken by the English, they would be +tortured and eaten. The latter I fancy they were accustomed to, but the +former they had a wholesome dread of.</p> + +<p>Can Mrs. Beecher Stowe beat this? It is, I can assure my readers, a very +mild description of what I saw on board the first cargo of slaves I made +the acquaintance of, and by which I was so deeply impressed, that I have +ever since been sceptical of the benefits conferred upon the African +race by our blockade—at all events, of the means employed to abolish +slavery.</p> + +<p>The strangest thing amid this 'confusion of horrors' was that children +were constantly being born. In fact, just after I got on board, an +unfortunate creature was delivered of a child close to where I was +standing, and jumped into the sea, baby and all, immediately afterwards. +She was saved with much difficulty; the more so, as she seemed to +particularly object to being rescued from what nearly proved a watery +grave.</p> + +<p>After this unusual stroke of good luck, sending <a name="Page_46" id="Page_46"></a>a prize crew on board +my new capture, and allowing the slaver's crew to escape in the +schooner's boat, as I considered these lawless ruffians an impediment to +my movements, I proceeded on my voyage, and arrived safely in Rio +harbour with my two prizes.</p> + +<p>There I handed my live cargo over to the English authorities, who had a +special large and roomy vessel lying in the harbour for the reception of +the now free niggers.</p> + +<p>It would be as well perhaps to state what became of the freed blacks. +First of all they were cleaned, clothed (after a fashion), and fed; then +they were sent to an English colony, such for example as Demerara, where +they had to serve seven years as apprentices (something, I must admit, +very like slavery), after which they were free for ever and all. I fear +they generally used their freedom in a way that made them a public +nuisance wherever they were. However, they were free, and that satisfied +the philanthropists.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47"></a></p> +<h3><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h3> + +<h4>SLAVER HUNTING (<i>continued</i>).</h4> + + +<p>Now to return to my 'experiences.' As proud as the young sportsman when +he has killed his first stag, I returned, keen as mustard, to my ship, +which I found still cruising near to where I had left her. Some secret +information that I had received while at Rio led me to ask my captain to +again send me away with a force similar to that which I had under me +before (with percussion caps this time), and allow me to station myself +some fifty miles further down the coast. My request was granted, and +away I went. This time, instead of taking shelter under an island, I +ensconced my little force behind a point of land which enabled me by +mounting on the rocks to sweep the horizon with a spy-glass, so that I +could discover any vessel approaching the land while she was yet at a +considerable distance.</p> + +<p>There happened to be a large coffee plantation in <a name="Page_48" id="Page_48"></a>my immediate +neighbourhood, and I remarked that the inhabitants favoured us with the +darkest of scowls whenever we met them. This made me believe (and I +wasn't far out) that the slave-vessel I was looking out for was bringing +recruits to the already numerous slaves employed on the said plantation. +Two or three mornings after my arrival, I discovered a sail on the very +far horizon; a vessel evidently bound to the immediate neighbourhood I +had chosen as my look-out place. The winds were baffling and light, as +usual in the morning in these latitudes, where, however, there is always +a sea-breeze in the afternoon. So, being in no hurry, I sauntered about +the shore with my double-barrelled gun in my hand, occasionally taking a +look seaward. Suddenly I saw within a hundred yards of me a man leading +two enormous dogs in a leash. The dogs were of a breed well known among +slave-owners, as they were trained to run down runaway slaves. I believe +the land of their origin is Cuba, as they are called Cuba bloodhounds.</p> + +<p>Suspecting nothing I continued my lounge, turning my back on the man and +his dogs. A few minutes afterwards I was startled by a rushing sound +behind me. On turning quickly round I saw to my horror two huge dogs +galloping straight at me.<a name="Page_49" id="Page_49"></a> Quick as lightning I stood on the defensive, +and when they with open mouths and bloodshot eyes were within five +yards, I pulled the trigger. The gun missed fire with the first barrel. +The second barrel luckily went off, scattering the brains of the nearest +dog, the whole charge having entered his mouth, and gone through the +palate into his brain. This occurrence seemed to check the advance of +the second brute, who, while hesitating for a moment before coming at +me, received a ball in his side from one of my sailors, who fortunately +had observed what was going on and had come to my rescue. Without +waiting an instant to see what had become of the man who had played me +this murderous trick, I called my men together, launched the boats, and +put out to sea.</p> + +<p>By this time the sea-breeze had set in, and I could see the vessel I had +been watching, though still a considerable distance from the shore, was +trimming her sails to the sea-breeze, and steering straight in for the +very spot where I had been concealed. Signal after signal was made to +her by her friends on the shore, in the shape of lighted fires (not much +avail in the daytime) and the hoisting of flags, &c., but she seemed +utterly to disregard the action of her friends. Satisfied, I imagine, +that she <a name="Page_50" id="Page_50"></a>had all but finished her voyage, seeing no cruiser and +unsuspicious of boats, on she came.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p> + +<p>We got almost alongside of her before the people on board seemed to see +us. When she did, evidently taken by surprise, she put her helm down, +and throwing all her sails aback, snapped some of her lighter spars, +thus throwing everything into confusion—confusion made worse by the +fact that, with the view of immediate landing, two hundred or three +hundred of the niggers had been freed from their confinement and were +crowded on the deck. Taking advantage of this state of things we made +our capture without a shot being fired.</p> + +<p>In fact everything was done, as sailors say, 'before you could look +round you,' the man at the helm replaced by one of my men, the crew +bundled down into the slave-hold to give them a taste of its horrors, +and the sails trimmed for seaward instead of towards the land. The +captain, who seemed a decent fellow, cried like a child. He said: 'If I +had seen you five minutes before you would never have taken me. Now I am +ruined.' I consoled him as well as I could and treated him well, as he +really seemed half <a name="Page_51" id="Page_51"></a>a gentleman, if not entirely one. I found about six +hundred slaves, men and women and children, on board this vessel, who as +they had made a very rapid and prosperous voyage, were in a somewhat +better state than those on board the last capture. Still goodness knows +their state was disgusting enough. Ophthalmia had got a terrible hold of +the poor wretches. In many of the cases the patient was stone blind. I +caught this painful disease myself, and for several days couldn't see a +yard.</p> + +<p>Shortly after, having despatched our prize into Rio in charge of a +brother midshipman, we were joined by another man-of-war cruiser, which +had been sent to assist us in our work. As the officer in command of +this vessel was of senior rank to my commander, he naturally took upon +himself to organise another boat expedition, placing one of his own +officers in command. With this expedition I was allowed to go, taking +with me my old boats and their crews, with orders to place myself under +the direction of Lieutenant A.C., the officer chosen by the senior in +command.</p> + +<p>So we started with five boats provisioned and otherwise prepared for a +cruise of twenty days. The lieutenant in charge did not think it wise to +land, as a bad feeling towards us was known to exist among <a name="Page_52" id="Page_52"></a>the +inhabitants, who were all more or less slave-dealers, or interested in +the success of the slave-vessels, so we had to live in our boats. Rather +hard lines, sleeping on the boat's thwarts, &c. Still we had that 'balm +of Gilead,' hope, to keep us alive, and our good spirits. Many a longing +eye did I cast to the shore, where, in spite of the bloodhounds, I +should like to have stretched my cramped limbs. Ten or twelve days +passed in dodging about, doing nothing but keeping a good look-out, and +we almost began to despair, when one fine morning we saw a large brig, +evidently a slaver, running in towards the shore with a fresh breeze. +Our boats were painted like fishing boats, and our men disguised as +fishermen, as usual; so, apparently occupied with our pretended +business, we gradually approached the slave-vessel. My orders were +strictly to follow the movements or action of my superior. Then I +witnessed a gallant act, such as I have not seen surpassed during forty +years of active service that I have gone through since that time. +Lieutenant A.C., who was in the leading boat, a large twelve-oared +cutter, edged pretty near to the advancing vessel, and when quite close +under her bows one man seemed to me to spring like a chamois on board. I +saw the boat from which the man jumped make an ineffectual attempt to +get alongside the <a name="Page_53" id="Page_53"></a>vessel, that was going at the rate of six miles an +hour, and then drop astern. I heard a pistol shot, and suddenly the +vessel was thrown up in the wind with all her sails aback, thus entirely +stopping her way (sailors will understand this). Not knowing precisely +what had happened, we pulled like maniacs alongside of the slaver. To do +this was, now that the vessel's way was stopped, comparatively easy. We +dashed on board, and after a slight resistance on the part of the +slaver's crew, in which two or three more men, myself among the number, +were wounded, we took possession of the brig. There we found our +lieutenant standing calmly at the helm, which was a long wooden tiller. +He it was who had jumped on board alone, shot the man at the helm, put +the said helm down with his leg, while in his hand he held his other +pistol, with which he threatened to shoot any one who dared to touch +him.</p> + +<p>I fancy that his cool pluck had caused a panic among the undisciplined +crew, a panic that our rapid approach tended much to increase. What +astonished me was that nobody on board thought of shooting him before he +got to the helm, in which case we never could have got on board the +vessel, considering the speed she was going through the water. What he +did was a glorious piece of pluck, that in these <a name="Page_54" id="Page_54"></a>days would have been +rewarded with the Victoria Cross as the least recompense they could have +given to so gallant an officer. Poor fellow! all the reward he got, +beyond the intense admiration of those who saw him, was a bad attack of +small-pox from the diseased <i>animals</i> (there is no other name for +negroes in the state they were in) on board the slave-vessel, which +somewhat injured the face of one of the handsomest men I ever saw. He is +now an admiral, has done many gallant acts since then, but none could +beat what he did on that memorable morning.</p> + +<p>I have said that I was among those who were wounded on this occasion. +What my friend A.C. did so far outshone anything that I had +accomplished, that it is hardly worth while speaking of my share in the +fray. However, as I am writing sketches from my life, I will not omit to +describe the way in which I was wounded. We were, as I have said, making +a rush to assist our gallant leader, who was alone on board the slaver. +The reader will have seen that our business was boarding and fighting +our enemy hand to hand. As I was making a jump on board I saw the white +of the eye of a great black man turned on me; he brandished a huge axe, +which I had a sort of presentiment was intended for me. I sprang as it +were straight at my destiny, for as<a name="Page_55" id="Page_55"></a> I grasped the gunnel down came the +axe, and I received the full edge of the beastly thing across the back +of my hand. I fell into the water, but was picked up by my sailors, and +managed to get on board again. Had it not been for a clever young +assistant surgeon, who bound up the wound in a most scientific manner, I +should probably have quite lost the use of my hand; the mark remains +across my knuckles to this day.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56"></a></p> +<h3><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h3> + +<h4>LOVE AND MURDER.</h4> + + +<p>I was once sent from Rio to Demerara, an English colony on the coast of +Brazil, with a cargo of blacks that we had freed. Then it was that I had +a good opportunity of studying the character of these people certainly +in their primitive state, and if ever men and women resembled wild +animals it was my swarthy charges. When I arrived at Demerara I handed +them over to their new masters, to whom they were apprenticed for seven +years, and from all I can understand they were, during their +apprenticeship, treated pretty much as slaves in every respect.</p> + +<p>During the time I visited Demerara (and I fancy it is very slightly +changed now) it was one of the vilest holes in creation. It is built on +a low sandy point of land at the entrance of a great river, and is +almost the hottest place on the earth. Mosquitos in thousands of +millions; nothing for the natives to do but <a name="Page_57" id="Page_57"></a>to cultivate sugar-canes +and to perspire. There were two crack regiments quartered at Demerara, +who, having to withstand the dreadful monotony of doing nothing, took I +fear to living rather too well; the consequence was that many a fine +fellow had been carried off by yellow fever. For my part, I took a +rather high flight in the way of pastime by falling (as I imagined) +desperately in love with the governor's daughter. The governor, I must +tell my readers, was a very great swell, a general, a K.C.B., &c., and +his daughter was a mighty pretty girl, much run after by the garrison; +so it was thought great impertinence on my part, as a humble +sub-lieutenant, to presume to make love to the reigning, if not the +only, beauty in the place.</p> + +<p>However, audacity carried me on, and I soon became No. 1 in the young +lady's estimation. I used to ride with her, spent the evenings in the +balcony of Government House with her, sent her flowers every morning, +and so on, till at last people began to talk, and steps were taken by +her numerous admirers to stop my wild career. This was done in a +somewhat startling way (premeditated, as I found out afterwards). One +evening I was playing at whist, one of my opponents being a momentarily +discarded lover of my young lady; I thought he was <a name="Page_58" id="Page_58"></a>looking very +distrait; however, things went off quietly enough for some time, till on +some trifling question arising concerning the rules of the game, the +young man suddenly and quite gratuitously insulted me most grossly, +ending his insolent conduct by throwing his cards in my face. This was +more than I could put up with, so I called him out, and the next morning +put a ball into his ankle, which prevented him dancing for a long time +to come. He, being the best dancer in the colony, was rather severely +punished; it seems that he had undertaken to bell the cat, hardly +expecting such unpleasant results.</p> + +<p>On returning home after the hostile meeting I found a much more +formidable adversary in the shape of the governor himself, who was +stamping furiously up and down the verandah of my apartment. He received +me with, 'What the d—- l do you mean, young sir, by making love to my +daughter? you are a mere boy.' (I was twenty and did not relish his +remark.) 'What means have you got?'</p> + +<p>After the old gentleman's steam had gone down a little I replied, +'Really, general, I hardly know how to answer you. Your daughter and I +are very good friends, the place is most detestably dull, there is +nothing to do, and if we amuse ourselves with a little love-making, +surely there can be no great <a name="Page_59" id="Page_59"></a>harm.' This rejoinder of mine made things +worse; I thought the old boy would have had a fit. At last he said, 'The +mail steamer leaves for England to-morrow; you shall go home by her, I +order you to do so!' I replied that I should please myself, and that I +was not under his orders. The general went away uttering threats. After +he was gone I thought seriously over the matter. I calculated that my +income of 120<i>l.</i> a year would scarcely suffice to keep a wife, and I +decided to renounce my dream of love. I went to pay a farewell visit to +my young lady, but found that she was locked up, so away I went and soon +forgot all about it. Shortly afterwards I heard that the governor's +daughter married the man whose leg I had lamed for his impertinence to +me.</p> + +<p>My last adventure while employed in the suppression of the slave trade +is perhaps worth describing.</p> + +<p>By international law it was ruled that a vessel on her way to Africa, if +fitted out in a certain manner, whereby it was evident that she was +employed in the nefarious traffic of slavery, was liable to capture and +condemnation by the mixed tribunals, or in other words became the lawful +prize of her captors.</p> + +<p>While cruising off Pernambuco we boarded a Portuguese vessel bound to +Africa, so evidently fitted out for the purpose of slave trade that my +captain <a name="Page_60" id="Page_60"></a>took possession of her, and sent me to convey her to the Cape +of Good Hope for adjudication. It was the usual thing to send the +captain of a vessel so captured as a prisoner on board his ship, so that +he might be interrogated at the trial. In this case the master and three +of his crew were sent. The prize crew consisted of myself and six men. +Now the captain was an exceedingly gentlemanlike man, a good sailor, and +a first-rate navigator.</p> + +<p>At first I treated him as a prisoner, but by degrees he insinuated +himself into my good graces to such an extent that after a while I +invited him to mess with me, in fact, made a friend of him, little +thinking of the serpent I was nourishing.</p> + +<p>For several days all went well. I was as unsuspicious as a child of foul +play. We lived together and worked our daily navigation together, played +at cards together, in fact were quite chums. The three men who were +supposed to be prisoners were allowed considerable liberty, and as they +had, as I found out afterwards, a private stock of grog stowed away +somewhere, which they occasionally produced and gave to my men, they +managed to be pretty free to do as they wished. For all that, I ordered +that the three prisoners should be confined below during the night.</p> + +<p>As the weather was very hot I always slept in <a name="Page_61" id="Page_61"></a>a little place on deck +called a bunk, a thing more like a dog-kennel than aught else I can +compare it to, excepting that the hole for entrance and exit was +somewhat larger than that generally used for the canine species.</p> + +<p>I always slept with a pistol (revolvers were unknown in those days) +under my pillow. Luckily for me that I did so, as the result will show.</p> + +<p>I had remarked (this I thought of afterwards) that the prisoner captain +and some of his men had been whispering together a good deal lately; but +not being in the slightest degree suspicious I thought nothing of it.</p> + +<p>One evening I retired to my sleeping place as usual, after having passed +a pleasant chatty evening with my prisoner. I was settling myself to +sleep, in fact I think I was asleep as far as it would be called so, for +I had from habit the custom of sleeping with one eye open, when I saw or +<i>felt</i> the flash of a knife over my head. The entrance to my couch was +very limited, so that my would-be murderer had some difficulty in +striking the fatal blow. Instinct at once showed me my danger.</p> + +<p>To draw my pistol from under my pillow was the work of a second; to fire +it into the body of the man who was trying to stab me, that of another. +A <a name="Page_62" id="Page_62"></a>groan and a heavy fall on the deck told me what had happened, and +springing out of my sleeping berth I found my ci-devant friend the +captain lying on his face, dead as a door nail. In the meantime I heard +a row in the fore-part of the ship. On going forward I saw one of the +prisoners in the act of falling overboard, and another extended full +length on the deck, while my stalwart quarter-master was flourishing a +handspike with which he had knocked one of his assailants overboard and +floored the other. Now it will be asked what was the man at the wheel +doing? Hereby hangs a tale. He swore that he heard or saw nothing. +Considering this sufficient evidence of his guilt, I put him in irons. +Shortly afterwards he confessed the whole story. It seems that a +conspiracy had been planned among the prisoners to retake the ship—that +the man at the wheel had been bribed to let free two of the prisoners, +under promise of a large reward if the result had been the retaking of +the ship.</p> + +<p>The only provision he made was that he was to take no murderous action +against his countrymen. The man at the helm and the quarter-master being +the only men on deck, and I being gone to roost, all seemed easy enough, +but Providence willed it otherwise.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63"></a>I buried the captain in the sea without further ceremony; the man who +fell overboard I suppose was drowned (I did not try to pick him up); the +man knocked down was put in irons, and all went smoothly for the rest of +the voyage; but when I arrived at the Cape of Good Hope without the +captain, the lawyers who defended the ship wanted to make out that I had +murdered him, and I was very nearly sent to prison on the charge of +murder.</p> + +<p>In the above pages I have endeavoured to give some notion of what used +to go on in old times when there were no steam launches, and when, I may +be forgiven for saying it, sailors were in every sense of the word +sailors.</p> + +<p>I could recount many more adventures somewhat similar to those I have +described, but I do not wish to bore my readers or appear egotistical in +their eyes. The only comparison I would make in regard to our doings in +those days is with the work done by the blockading squadron during the +civil war in America; for if ever men required plucky endurance and +self-denial it was the poor fellows who had to keep, or endeavour to +keep, blockade-runners if not slavers from communicating with the stormy +shores of Florida and South Carolina. They are too modest now to tell us +what they went through. Perhaps <a name="Page_64" id="Page_64"></a>forty years hence they will do as I am +doing, and recount some of their adventures, which I am convinced would +quite put into the shade anything I or my boat's crew ever did.</p> + +<p>I do not wish to be mistaken in my remarks about the black race. I will +not venture to give an opinion as to what Providence meant to be done +with those interesting creatures. I only assert, and this I do from my +own personal experience, that a black man is a happier and wiser man in +America than he is in his own wretched country, North and South.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65"></a></p> +<h3><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h3> + +<h4>THE QUEEN'S YACHT.</h4> + + +<p>I returned from the Cape to England. On arriving there I was appointed +to the Queen's yacht, as a reward for what their lordships at the +Admiralty were good enough to designate my active and zealous services +while employed in suppression of the slave trade.</p> + +<p>To be appointed to Her Majesty's yacht was in those days considered a +very great distinction. Even now the Queen invariably chooses officers +who have seen what is called 'service.' Such an appointment, apart from +the honour of being so near Her Majesty, always tends to rapid +promotion.</p> + +<p>The Queen at the time I write of was very fond of cruising in her yacht, +paying visits to foreign potentates, &c. Her Majesty had been then five +years married, with a young family springing up around her, and her +beloved husband the Prince<a name="Page_66" id="Page_66"></a> Consort always with her, participating in +all her pleasures; so we, the officers of the Royal yacht, had a rare +time of it, were made a lot of wherever we went, and thought ourselves +very great men indeed. Amongst other trips, we conveyed the Royal family +up the Rhine, where Her Majesty visited the King of Prussia at +Stolzenfels.</p> + +<p>Afterwards we went to the Château d'Eu, where Her Majesty was received +by King Louis Philippe and the Reine Amélie.</p> + +<p>I shall never forget the condescending kindness of Her Majesty and +Prince Albert to all on board the Royal yacht. As to the Prince Consort, +he treated the officers more in the light of companions than +subordinates, always ready to join us in a cigar and its accompanying +friendly conversation.</p> + +<p>Apropos of smoking, I cannot refrain from mentioning a little incident +that happened on board the 'Victoria and Albert,' that I, for one, shall +never forget. Her Gracious Majesty never approved of smoking, and it was +only through the kind consideration of the Prince Consort that we were +allowed to indulge in an occasional cigar in the cow-house. The +cow-house was a little place fitted up for two pretty small Alderney +cows, kept specially for supplying milk and butter for the Royal table.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67"></a>Her Majesty was very fond of these animals and had the habit of +visiting them every day, and the young Princes used to be held up to +look in at the window, out of which there was room for the favoured cows +to stretch their heads. One evening we were smoking as usual when I +espied a pot of blue paint on the deck of the cow-house, with, as bad +luck would have it, a brush in the pot. I cannot say what induced me, +but I deliberately took the brush and painted the tips of the noses and +the horns of both animals a pretty light blue. Having done this I +thought no more of the matter. The next morning Her Majesty—well, I +think I had better say no more about it. I, the culprit, was denounced +and had to keep out of the way for a day or two. Then it was that the +good-natured Prince proved himself a friend, and got me out of my +scrape.</p> + +<p>I passed two of the happiest years of my life in the Queen's yacht, +after which I was promoted to the rank of lieutenant, and appointed to a +ship in the Mediterranean, where I passed for several years the usual +humdrum life of a naval officer during times of profound peace.</p> + +<p>However, while serving as a lieutenant in the Mediterranean, I had the +advantage of taking part in one of the most interesting political events +of the <a name="Page_68" id="Page_68"></a>century, namely, the flight of Pius IX. from Rome. The ship I +was in was stationed at Civita Vecchia, the sea-port of Rome, partly in +order to protect British interests—that is, the persons and properties +of British subjects—partly with the object of taking that half-hearted +part in religious politics which has always been such a humiliating rôle +for England.</p> + +<p>We had an accredited agent, a nondescript sort of person, representing +England at the court of Pope Pius IX. This gentleman's duty was to watch +and report, but not to act. It was through him that England's idea of +the policy to be pursued by the Pope was conveyed. We did not, and we +did, want to interfere. The question of the balance of power of Italy as +an independent nation was too important to neglect; it was impossible to +separate altogether religion and politics. However, at the time I write +of things were rushing to a crisis.</p> + +<p>The Pope, who a short time previously had been considered the great +supporter of liberty, was now looked upon as its enemy. Garibaldi was, +in a mad sort of way, fighting in its cause—at least, he professed to +do so. He had marched with a band of howling volunteers to the gates of +Rome, and established himself there as its conqueror, virtually making +the Pope a prisoner in the Vatican. In the meantime<a name="Page_69" id="Page_69"></a> France interfered +in the Pope's cause, and sent General Oudinot with a small army to +dislodge Garibaldi. England's doubtful diplomatic relations made it +necessary to choose every sort of means of communicating with the Pope, +and I had the honour on more than one occasion of being the messenger +chosen to communicate, not only with His Holiness, but between Garibaldi +and the French commander. On the first occasion I was sent to Rome with +despatches from Lord Palmerston to be delivered (so said my orders) into +the Pope's own hands.</p> + +<p>On my arrival at Rome I went straight to the Quirinal and asked to see +Cardinal Antonelli. When I informed him of my instructions, he said at +once, 'You may give your despatches to me; you cannot expect to see His +Holiness.' 'No, sir; to the Pope I will give my despatches, or take them +back again,' and from this decision no persuasions or threats would move +me. Finding me obstinate the Cardinal at last took me with him into a +room where the Pope was sitting. His Holiness seemed in a great state of +anxiety, but was most kind and condescending. He gave me his hand to +kiss, and congratulated me on having been so firm in obeying orders in +relation to my despatches. I afterwards found that these despatches +influenced very much the <a name="Page_70" id="Page_70"></a>important step taken by Pio Nono a few days +afterwards.</p> + +<p>Subsequently I several times conveyed communications between General +Garibaldi and General Oudinot. The former had most pluckily taken +possession of an important position inside the walls of Rome, and it was +a hard piece of work to dislodge him.</p> + +<p>I used to gallop in between General Oudinot's camp and Garibaldi's +headquarters, having on my arm a red scarf for a sign that I was not a +belligerent. My scarf was not much use, however, as I was generally +fired at all the time that I was passing the space between the French +camp and Garibaldi's headquarters in Rome.</p> + +<p>I was amused by the audacity with which Garibaldi resisted the French +army. I fancy he wanted to delay matters so that the Pope should be +induced to take the ill-advised step of leaving Rome, and in this the +republican general succeeded. What went on in Rome, the way in which the +Pope escaped, &c., I am not able to relate. All I know is that one fine +morning a simple carriage arrived from Rome at Civita Vecchia, bringing +a portly individual enveloped in the large cloak of an English coachman, +and another man in ordinary apparel. They strolled <a name="Page_71" id="Page_71"></a>down to the place of +embarkation, and went quietly on board, not (as was expected) the +English man-of-war, but a French vessel-of-war which was lying with her +steam up.</p> + +<p>This vessel then left the harbour, almost unnoticed, and it was not for +hours afterwards that we heard that His Holiness Pius IX. was the +humble-looking person who had embarked before our eyes, and thus got +away safely to Gaëta.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72"></a></p> +<h3><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h3> + +<h4>IN THE BALTIC.</h4> + + +<p>In 1854 the war (commonly called the Crimean war) broke out, and I was +appointed first lieutenant of H.M.S.—— for service in the Baltic.</p> + +<p>I shall never forget the excitement among us all when, after so many +years of inactivity, we were called upon to defend the honour of our +country. Unfortunately for old England the Baltic fleet was put under +the command of Sir C. N——, 'fighting old Charley' as he was called, +though it was not long before we discovered that there was not much +fight left in him. It might well be said by those generously inclined +towards him, in the words of the old song, that the</p> + +<p> +'Bullets and the gout<br /> +Had so knocked his hull about,<br /> +That he'd never more be fit for sea.'<br /> +</p> + +<p>A finer fleet never sailed or steamed from Spithead than that destined +for the Baltic in 1854. The <a name="Page_73" id="Page_73"></a>signal from its commander, 'Lads, war is +declared! Sharpen your cutlasses and the day's your own,' sent a thrill +of joy through every breast. After following the melting ice up the +Baltic Sea to within almost reach of the guns of Cronstadt, we waited +till the ice had disappeared, and then went in as we thought for the +attack.</p> + +<p>The ship to which I belonged being a steamer, and drawing much less +water than the line-of-battle ships, led the way. A grander sight could +not be conceived than that of twenty splendid line-of-battle ships, +formed in two lines, steaming straight up to the frowning batteries of +Cronstadt. On our approaching the batteries a shot was fired, and fell +alongside the ship I was in, which, as I said, was leading for the +purpose of sounding, when, to our astonishment and disgust, the signal +was made from the flag-ship to the fleet 'Stop!' and immediately +afterwards to 'anchor.'</p> + +<p>It is not for me to say the reason 'why.' All that I can vouch for is +that, in the general opinion of competent judges, had we gone on we +could have taken or destroyed Cronstadt, instead of which—what was +done? They sent to England for special boats to be made ready for the +next summer, when the attack would be made on Cronstadt.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74"></a>We remained a few days at anchor off that place, when some half of the +fleet were detached to the Aland Islands, where an insignificant fort +called Bomarsund was to be attacked—not by the English and French +fleets, who were fit to do any mortal thing, but by an army fetched from +France. When the army came, the poor little fort attacked by the fleet +on the seaside, and on the shore by the soldiers, after firing a few +shots surrendered. During the attack I was appointed acting commander of +H.M.S.——, and was mentioned honourably in despatches.</p> + +<p>Many promotions were made for the taking of Bomarsund, but I fancy I had +as usual given my opinion too freely, as I was left out in the cold. I +shall never forget old Charley's answer to me when I applied for my +promotion, it was so worthy of him. He said, 'Don't ye come crying to +me, Sir; you are a lord's son: I'll have nothing to do wi' ye.'</p> + +<p>Immediately after the capture of Bomarsund, the admiral detached a small +squadron under Captain S—— to reconnoitre the Russian port of Abo. Of +that squadron the vessel of which I was commander formed one. We left +with sealed orders, which were not to be opened until we arrived at, or +near to, our destination.</p> + +<p>On sighting the enemy's port we perceived that <a name="Page_75" id="Page_75"></a>every preparation was +being made to give us a warm reception. A council of war was held on +board the senior officer's ship, at which council the sealed orders were +opened, when to our disgust it was found within that we were ordered +'not to fight, merely to reconnoitre.'</p> + +<p>Sickening humiliation! There were the Russian gunboats inside the bar of +the harbour of Abo, firing at us with all their might. The forts on the +heights, such as they were, very insignificant temporary batteries of +field-pieces, had commenced to get the range of the ships; but as we +were not to fight, we took a sulky shot or two at the enemy and retired.</p> + +<p>To this day I cannot understand the policy that actuated this weak, +vacillating conduct on the part of our chief. But some idea may be given +of his fighting notions by the following occurrence, of which I was a +witness.</p> + +<p>One morning despatches arrived from England. A signal was made from the +flag-ship for commanding officers to repair on board that vessel. On our +arrival there, we were asked to sit down to breakfast. Our chief, who +was opening his letters, suddenly threw a despatch over the table to +S——, the admiral of the fleet, saying, 'What would ye do, mun, if ye +received a letter like this?' S——, after <a name="Page_76" id="Page_76"></a>reading the letter said, 'If +I received a letter like that, I'd attack Revel or Sveaborg if I lost +half my fleet.' Our chief's answer I shall never forget. It was: 'I +haven't got nerve to do it, and I'm d——d well sure C—— hasn't.' +There are many living besides myself who can vouch for the accuracy of +this statement.</p> + +<p>I shall say no more of the doings of the English fleet in the Baltic +during that year. Suffice it, that if ever open mutiny was +displayed—not by the crews of the ships, but by many of the captains, +men who attained the highest rank in their profession—it was during the +cruise in the Baltic in 1854: and no wonder.</p> + +<p>Many gallant deeds were performed by single ships, but the fleet did +absolutely nothing, except help to capture Bomarsund. I returned to +England disgusted and disheartened. The next year the commander-in-chief +was changed; I was appointed to his ship, and we went again to the +Baltic, taking with us all the necessary appurtenances for bombarding +forts and attacking the enemy's coast.</p> + +<p>As soon as the melting of the ice permitted we arrived off Cronstadt, +and found that the Russians had not been asleep during our absence for +the winter months; for they had defended the approaches to <a name="Page_77" id="Page_77"></a>that place +to such an extent, that an attack was considered (and on this occasion +there was no difference of opinion) most unadvisable. So we fell back on +Sveaborg, which place was bombarded by the combined fleets, I venture to +think most successfully, and I believe, had we had a force to land, we +could have taken possession of that large and important fortress.</p> + +<p>Our losses during the operation were small on board the squadron of +mortar-boats which I had the good luck to command—some fifty-eight men +<i>hors de combat</i>.</p> + +<p>In this service I received my promotion to the rank of commander, and +returned to England.</p> + +<p>Peace was made between Russia and England, previous to which, however, I +was appointed to a vessel in the Mediterranean which formed part of the +fleet off Sebastopol. Unfortunately, I arrived too late to see much +active service there.</p> + +<p>While serving as a commander in the Mediterranean, I was principally +under the command of Sir Wm. M——, a man whose reputation as being the +smartest officer in the navy, I must venture to say, I think was greatly +exaggerated, though he was doubtless what is called a 'smart officer.'</p> + +<p>His idea was to rule with a rod of iron, and never to encourage anyone +by praising zealous and active <a name="Page_78" id="Page_78"></a>service. He used to say, 'I am here to +find fault with, not to praise, officers under my command.' So many a +fine fellow's zeal was damped by knowing that no encouragement would +follow in the way of appreciation from his chief, however much he might +have merited it.</p> + +<p>I cannot refrain from recounting a very amusing incident that occurred +in connection with my command of H.M.S. <i>F—— </i>. I may mention that, +differing as I did most materially with the system of discipline +followed by the commander-in-chief, I was no favourite of his.</p> + +<p>One day, however, I was somewhat surprised at being ordered to prepare +for the official inspection of my ship, and by no less a person than Sir +W. M——himself. I must mention that one of the crotchets of the chief +was that vessels such as mine—namely, a gunboat of the first +class—could be floated off the shore, in case of their stranding, by +water-casks being lashed round them. So orders were given that all +vessels of that class were to lumber their decks with water-casks. I did +so, according to orders; but, not having the least confidence in the +manner in which the commander-in-chief proposed to employ them, I +utilised them, as will be seen presently, for an entirely different +purpose.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79"></a>The day of my ship's inspection was evidently not one of my lucky days. +To begin with, a horrid little monkey belonging to the crew—amusing +himself running about in the hammock-nettings near to the gangway over +which the great man had to pass—seeing something he thought unusual, +made a rush as the commander-in-chief was stepping on board, stooped +down, and deliberately took the cocked hat off his head, dropped it into +the sea, then started up the rigging chattering with delight at the +mischief he had done. The cocked hat was at once recovered, wiped dry, +and placed in its proper place. The admiral, always stern as a matter of +principle, looked, after this incident, sterner than usual, hardly +recognised me except by a formal bow, then proceeded to muster the +officers and crew. This over, he commenced to walk round the deck. I +remarked with pleasure his countenance change when he saw how neatly his +pet water-casks were painted and lashed to the inner gunnel of the ship. +He said quite graciously, 'I am glad to see, Captain Hobart, that you +pay such attention to my orders.' I began to think I was mistaken in my +idea of the man; but, alas! for my exuberance of spirits and +satisfaction. While the admiral was closely examining one of his pet +casks, his face came almost in contact with the <a name="Page_80" id="Page_80"></a>opening of the barrel, +when, to his and my horror, a pretty little spaniel put out his head and +licked the great man on the nose.</p> + +<p>I shall never forget the admiral's countenance; he turned blue with +anger, drew himself up, ordered his boat to be manned, and walked over +the side not saying a word to anyone.</p> + +<p>The facts which led to this untoward occurrence were that, seeing the +necessity of having my decks crowded with what I considered useless +lumber, in the form of water-casks, I had utilised them by making them +into dog-kennels. The admiral hated dogs, hated sport of all kind, and, +after what occurred, I fancy hated me. Well, I didn't love him; I never +saw him again.</p> + +<p>The very next day I was ordered to the coast of Syria: just what I +wanted, i.e., to be out of the commander-in-chief's way, and to have +some good shooting.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81"></a></p> +<h3><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X.</h3> + +<h4>BLOCKADE-RUNNING.</h4> + + +<p>On receiving my rank as post-captain, I found myself shelved, as it +were, for four years, while waiting my turn for a command. This was +according to the rules of the navy, so there was no getting out of it. +What was I to do? I consulted several of my friends who were in a +similar position, who, like myself, did not wish to remain idle so long, +so we looked about us for some enterprise, as something to do.</p> + +<p>The upshot of it was that we thought of trying if we could not conceive +some plan for breaking through the much-talked-of blockade of the +Southern States of America, then in revolt against the government of +Washington. Four of us young post-captains took this decision, and as it +would have been, perhaps, considered <i>infra dig.</i> for real naval +officers to engage in such an enterprise, we lent our minds, if not our +bodies, to certain <i>alter egos</i>, whom we inspired, if <a name="Page_82" id="Page_82"></a>we did not +personally control, as to their line of conduct. My man I will call +Roberts, whose adventures I now give, and in whose name I shall write. +There are people who insist that I was Captain Roberts; all that such +people have to do is to prove I was that 'miscreant,' whoever he may +have been. The following is his narrative:—</p> + +<p>During the late civil war in America the executive government undertook +the blockade of more than 3,000 miles of coast, and though nothing could +exceed the energy and activity of the naval officers so employed, the +results were very unsatisfactory, inasmuch as it was not till absolute +possession was taken of the forts at the entrance of the great harbours, +such as Charleston, Mobile, and Wilmington, that blockade-running was +stopped.</p> + +<p>I trust that our American friends will not be too severe in their +censures on those engaged in blockade-running; for, I say it with the +greatest respect for and admiration of enterprise, had they been +lookers-on instead of principals in the sad drama that was enacted, they +would have been the very men to take the lead. It must be borne in mind +that the excitement of fighting did not exist. One was always either +running away or being deliberately pitched into by the broadsides of the +American cruisers, the <a name="Page_83" id="Page_83"></a>slightest resistance to which would have +constituted piracy; whereas capture without resistance merely entailed +confiscation of cargo and vessel.</p> + +<p>The vessel I had charge of—which I had brought out from England, was +one of the finest double-screw steamers that had ever been built by +D——n; of 400 tons burden, 250 horse-power, 180 feet long, and 22 feet +beam—and was, so far as sea-going qualities, speed, &c., went, as handy +a little craft as ever floated. Our crew consisted of a captain, three +officers, three engineers, and twenty-eight men, including firemen, that +is, ten seamen and eighteen firemen. They were all Englishmen, and as +they received very high wages, we managed to have picked men. In fact, +the men-of-war on the West India station found it a difficult matter to +prevent their crews from deserting, so great was the temptation offered +by the blockade-runners.</p> + +<p>I will begin by explaining how we prepared the vessel for the work. This +was done by reducing her spars to a light pair of lower masts, without +any yards across them; the only break in their sharp outline being a +small crow's-nest on the foremast, to be used as a look-out place. The +hull, which showed about eight feet above water, was painted a dull grey +colour to render her as nearly as possible invisible in <a name="Page_84" id="Page_84"></a>the night. The +boats were lowered square with the gunnels. Coal was taken on board of a +smokeless nature (anthracite). The funnel, being what is called +'telescope,' lowered close down to the deck. In order that no noise +might be made, steam was blown off under water. In fact, every ruse was +resorted to to enable the vessel to evade the vigilance of the American +cruisers, who were scattered about in great numbers all the way between +Bermuda and Wilmington—the port at the time I write of most frequented +by blockade-runners. While speaking of the precautions used I may +mention that among the fowls taken on board as provisions, no cocks were +allowed, for fear of their proclaiming the whereabouts of the +blockade-runner. This may seem ridiculous, but it was very necessary.</p> + +<p>The distance from Bermuda to Wilmington (the port we were bound to) is +720 miles. We started in the evening. For the first twenty-four hours we +saw nothing to alarm us, but at daylight the second day there was a +large American cruiser not half a mile from us, right ahead, who, before +we could turn round, steamed straight at us, and commenced firing +rapidly, but very much at random, the shot and shell all passing over or +wide of us.</p> + +<p>Fortunately, according to orders to have full <a name="Page_85" id="Page_85"></a>steam on at daybreak, we +were quite prepared for a run; and still more fortunately a heavy squall +of wind and rain that came on helped us vastly, as we were dead to +windward of the enemy; and having no top-weights we soon dropped him +astern. He most foolishly kept yawing, to fire his bow-chasers, losing +ground every time he did so. By eight o'clock we were out of +range—unhit; and by noon out of sight of anything but smoke.</p> + +<p>Luckily, the chase had not taken us much off our course, as the +consumption of coal during a run of this sort, with boilers all but +bursting from high pressure of steam, was a most serious +consideration—there being no coal in the Confederate ports, where wood +was only used, which would not suit our furnaces.</p> + +<p>We were now evidently in very dangerous waters, steamers being reported +from our mast-head every hour, and we had to keep moving about in all +directions to avoid them; sometimes stopping to let one pass ahead of +us, at another time turning completely round, and running back on our +course. Luckily, we were never seen or chased. Night came on, and I had +hoped that we should have made rapid progress till daybreak unmolested. +All was quiet until about one o'clock in the morning, when <a name="Page_86" id="Page_86"></a>suddenly, to +our dismay, we found a steamer close alongside of us. How she had got +there without our knowledge is a mystery to me even now. However, there +she was, and we had hardly seen her before a stentorian voice howled +out, 'Heave-to in that steamer, or I'll sink you.' It seemed as if all +was over, but I determined to try a ruse before giving the little craft +up. So I answered, 'Ay, ay, sir, we are stopped.' The cruiser was about +eighty yards from us. We heard orders given to man and arm the +quarter-boats, we saw the boats lowered into the water, we saw them +coming, we heard the crews laughing and cheering at the prospect of +their prize. The bowmen had just touched the sides of our vessel with +their boat-hooks when I whispered down the tube into the engine-room, +'Full speed ahead!' and away we shot into the darkness.</p> + +<p>I don't know what happened; whether the captain of the man-of-war +thought that his boats had taken possession, and thus did not try to +stop us, or whether he stopped to pick up his boats in the rather nasty +sea that was running, some one who reads this may know. All I can say +is, that not a shot was fired, and that in less than a minute the pitch +darkness hid the cruiser from our view. This was a great piece of luck.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87"></a>All the next day we passed in dodging about, avoiding the cruisers as +best we could, but always approaching our post.</p> + +<p>During the day we got good observations with which our soundings agreed; +and at sunset our position was sixty miles due east of the entrance to +Wilmington river, off which place were cruising a strong squadron of +blockading ships. The American blockading squadron, which had undertaken +the almost impossible task of stopping all traffic along 3,000 miles of +coast, consisted of nearly a hundred vessels of different sorts and +sizes—<i>bonâ-fide</i> men-of-war, captured blockade-runners, unemployed +steam-packets, with many other vessels pressed into government service. +Speed and sufficient strength to carry a long gun were the only +requisites, the Confederate men-of-war being few and far between. These +vessels were generally well commanded and officered, but badly manned. +The inshore squadron off Wilmington consisted of about thirty vessels, +and lay in the form of a crescent facing the entrance to Cape Clear +river, the centre being just out of range of the heavy guns mounted on +Fort Fisher, the horns, as it were, gradually approaching the shore on +each side; the whole line or curve covered about ten miles.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88"></a>The blockade-runners had been in the habit of trying to get between the +vessel at either extremity; and the coast being quite flat and +dangerous, without any landmark, excepting here and there a tree +somewhat taller than others, the cruisers generally kept at a sufficient +distance to allow of this being done. The runner would then crawl close +along the shore, and when as near as could be judged opposite the +entrance of the river, would show a light on the vessel's inshore side, +which was answered by a very indistinct light being shown on the beach, +close to the water's edge, and another at the background. These two +lights being got into a line was a proof that the opening was arrived +at; the vessels then steered straight in and anchored under the +Confederate batteries at Fort Fisher. More vessels were lost crawling +along this dangerous beach than were taken by the cruisers. I have seen +three burning at one time, for the moment a vessel struck she was set +fire to, to prevent the blockaders getting her off when daylight came.</p> + +<p>This system of evading the cruisers, however, having been discovered, it +was put a stop to by a very ingenious method, by which several vessels +were captured and an end put to that little game. Of course I can only +conjecture the way in which it was <a name="Page_89" id="Page_89"></a>done, but it seemed to me to be +thus: At the extreme end of the line of blockaders lay one of them with +a kedge anchor, down so close to the shore that she left but a very +little space for the blockade-runner to pass between her and the beach. +The captain of the runner, however, trusting to his vessel's speed and +invisibility, dashed through this space, and having got by the cruiser +thought himself safe. Poor fellow! he was safe for a moment, but in such +a trap that his only chance of getting out of it was by running on shore +or giving up. For no sooner had he passed than up went a rocket from the +cruiser who had seen the runner rush by, and who now moved a little +further in towards the shore, so as to stop her egress by the way she +went in; and the other vessels closing round by a pre-arranged plan, the +capture or destruction of the blockade-runner was a certainty.</p> + +<p>Some of the captains most pluckily ran their vessels on shore, and +frequently succeeded in setting fire to them; but the boats of the +cruisers were sometimes too sharp in their movements to admit of this +being done, and the treatment of those who tried to destroy their +vessels was, I am sorry to say, very barbarous and unnecessary. +Moreover, men who endeavoured to escape by jumping overboard after <a name="Page_90" id="Page_90"></a>the +vessel was on shore were often fired at by grape and shell, in what +seemed to me a very unjustifiable manner. Great allowance, however, must +be made for the men-of-war's men, who after many hard nights of dreary +watching constantly under weigh, saw their well-earned prize escaping by +being run on shore and set fire to, just as they imagined they had got +possession. On several occasions they have been content to tow the empty +shell of an iron vessel off the shore, her valuable cargo having been +destroyed by fire.</p> + +<p>But I have left my little craft lying as was stated about sixty miles +from the entrance of the river. I had determined to try a new method of +getting through the blockading squadron, seeing that the usual plan, as +described above, was no longer feasible or, at least, advisable. I have +mentioned that our position was well defined by observations and +soundings, so we determined to run straight through the blockaders, and +to take our chance. When it was quite dark we started steaming at full +speed. It was extremely thick on the horizon, but clear overhead, with +just enough wind and sea to prevent the little noise the engines and +screws made being heard. Every light was out—even the men's pipes; the +masts were lowered on to the deck; and if ever a vessel was invisible +the <i>D——n</i> was that night.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91"></a>We passed several outlying cruisers, some unpleasantly near, but still +we passed them. All seemed going favourably, when suddenly I saw through +my glasses the long low line of a steamer right ahead, lying as it were +across our bows so close that it would have been impossible to pass to +the right or left of her without being seen. A prompt order given to the +engine-room (where the chief engineer stood to the engines) to reverse +one engine, was as promptly obeyed, and the little craft spun round like +a <i>teetotum</i>. If I had not seen it, I could never have believed it +possible that a vessel would have turned so rapidly, and (although, +perhaps, it is irrelevant to my subject) I cannot refrain from bearing +testimony to the wonderful powers of turning that are given to a vessel +by the application of Symond's turnscrews, as he loves to call them. On +this occasion £50,000 of property was saved to its owners. I do not +believe the cruiser saw us at all, and so very important to us was the +fact that we had turned in so short a space, that I scarcely think we +lost five yards of our position. Having turned we stopped to +reconnoitre, and could still see the faint outline of the cruiser +crawling (propelled, probably, only by the wind) slowly into the +darkness, leaving the way open to us, of which we at once took +<a name="Page_92" id="Page_92"></a>advantage. It was now about one o'clock in the morning; our lead, and +an observation of a friendly star, told us that we were rapidly nearing +the shore. But it was so fearfully dark, that it seemed almost hopeless +ever to find our way to the entrance of the river, and no one felt +comfortable. Still we steamed slowly on and shortly made out a small +glimmer of a light right ahead. We eased steam a little, and cautiously +approached.</p> + +<p>As we got nearer, we could make out the outline of a vessel lying at +anchor, head to wind, and conjectured that this must be the senior +officer's vessel, which we were told generally lay about two miles and a +half from the river's mouth, and which was obliged to show some sort of +light to the cruisers that were constantly under weigh right and left of +her. The plan of finding out this light, and using it as a guide to the +river's entrance, being shortly after this time discovered, the vessel +that carried it was moved into a different position every night, whereby +several blockade-runners came to grief.</p> + +<p>Feeling pretty confident now of our position, we went on again at full +speed, and made out clearly the line of blockaders lying to the right +and left of the ship which showed the light; all excepting her being +apparently under weigh. Seeing an opening between <a name="Page_93" id="Page_93"></a>the vessel at anchor +and the one on her left, we made a dash, and, thanks to our disguise and +great speed, got through without being seen, and made the most of our +way towards the land. As a strong current runs close inshore which is +constantly changing its course, and there were no lights or landmarks to +guide us, it was a matter of great difficulty to find the very narrow +entrance to the river.</p> + +<p>We were now nearly out of danger from cruisers, who seldom ventured very +close inshore in the vicinity of the batteries; and our pilot, who had +been throughout the voyage in bodily fear of an American prison, began +to wake up, and, after looking well round, told us that he could make +out, over the long line of surf, a heap of sand called 'the mound,' +which was a mark for going into the river.</p> + +<p>This good news emboldened us to show a small light from the inshore side +of the vessel; it was promptly answered by two lights being placed a +short distance apart on the beach, in such a position that, when the two +were brought into line, or, as the sailors call it, into one, the vessel +would be in the channel which led into the river. This being done +without interruption from the cruisers, we steamed in and anchored +safely under the batteries of Fort Fisher.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94"></a>Being now perfectly safe, lights were at once lit, supper and grog +served out <i>ad libitum</i>, everybody congratulated everybody, and a +feeling of comfort and jollity, such as can only be experienced after +three nights' and three days' intense anxiety, possessed us all. On the +morning breaking we counted twenty-five cruisers lying as near as they +dared venture off the river's mouth, and a very pleasant sight it was, +situated as we were. There was evidently a move among them of an unusual +kind; for the smaller vessels were steaming in towards the shore on the +north side, and the ships' launches, with guns in their bows, were +pulling about from vessel to vessel. The cause of it as day advanced was +but too apparent.</p> + +<p>Just out of range of Fort Fisher's heavy artillery, on the north side of +the river's entrance, a splendid paddle-wheel blockade-runner was lying +on the beach, having been run on shore during the night to avoid +capture.</p> + +<p>Her crew had evidently escaped to the shore, and a smouldering smoke +showed that she had been set fire to, and that a little wind was all +that was necessary to make the flames break out. The blockading ships do +not appear to have been aware of the damage they had done till daylight +discovered the vessel, that they probably thought had either got <a name="Page_95" id="Page_95"></a>into +the river or escaped to sea, lying on the beach. However, they were not +slow in making preparations for capturing her, if possible.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile, two of the crew of the blockade-runner managed to get on +board of her, and setting her on fire in a dozen different places, +everything in the vessel was soon destroyed, and her red-hot sides made +boarding an impossibility.</p> + +<p>So the gunboats retired out of range, and the artillery with the +Whitworth guns returned to Fort Fisher. The shell of this vessel lay for +months on the beach and was by no means a bad mark for the +blockade-runners to steer by.</p> + +<p>Having witnessed this little bit of excitement and received on board the +crew of the stranded vessel, we took a pilot on board and steamed up the +Cape Clear river to Wilmington.</p> + +<p>It will be difficult to erase from my memory the excitement of the +evening we made our little craft fast alongside the quay at Wilmington; +the congratulations we received, the champagne cocktail we imbibed, the +eagerness with which we gave and received news, the many questions we +asked, such as, 'How long shall we be unloading?' 'Was our cargo of +cotton ready?' 'How many bales could we carry?' 'How other +blockade-runners had <a name="Page_96" id="Page_96"></a>fared?' &c.; and the visits from thirsty and +hungry Southerners of all ranks and denominations, many of whom had not +tasted alcohol in any form for months, to whom whatever they liked to +eat or drink was freely given, accompanied by congratulations on all +sides. All these things, combined with the delightful feeling of +security from capture, and the glorious prospect of a good night's rest +in a four-poster, wound one up into an inexpressible state of jollity. +If some of us had a little headache in the morning, surely it was small +blame to us. Our host's cocktails, made of champagne bitters and pounded +ice, soon put all things to rights; and after breakfast we lounged down +to the quays on the river-side, which were piled mountains high with +cotton-bales and tobacco tierces, and mixed in the lively and busy scene +of discharging, selling, and shipping cargoes.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97"></a></p> +<h3><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h3> + +<h4>EXCITING ADVENTURES.</h4> + + +<p>I may now, I trust, without appearing egotistical, digress slightly from +the narrative to give an account of how I managed with my own private +venture, which I had personally to attend to; for it is scarcely +necessary to mention that in blockade-running everyone must look after +himself. If he does not his labour will have been in vain.</p> + +<p>Before leaving England I had met a Southern lady, who, on my inquiring +as to what was most needed by her compatriots in the beleaguered States, +replied curtly: 'Corsages, sir, I reckon.' So I determined to buy a lot +of the articles she referred to, and on arriving at Glasgow (the port +from which we originally started) I visited an emporium that seemed to +contain everything in the world; and I astonished a young fellow behind +the counter by asking for a thousand pairs of stays. Such an unusual +re<a name="Page_98" id="Page_98"></a>quest sent him off like a rocket to higher authority, with whom I +made a bargain for the article required at one shilling and a penny per +pair, to be delivered the next day. At the same time I bought five +hundred boxes of Cockle's pills, and a quantity of toothbrushes. Well, +here I was in Wilmington, with all these valuables on my hands; the +corsages were all right, but the horrid little Cockles were bursting +their cerements and tumbling about my cabin in all directions. I was +anxious, with the usual gallantry of my cloth, to supply the wants of +the ladies first. The only specimens of the sex that I could see moving +about were coloured women, who were so little encumbered with dress that +I began to think I was mistaken in the article recommended by my lady +friend as being the most required out here. After waiting some time, and +no one coming to bid for my ware, I was meditating putting up on the +ship's side a large board with the name of the article of ladies' dress +written on it—a pillbox for a crest, and toothbrushes as +supporters—when an individual came on board and inquired whether I +wished 'to trade.' I greedily seized upon him, took him into my retreat, +and made him swallow three glasses of brandy in succession, after which +we commenced business.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99"></a>I will not trouble my reader with the way in which we traded; regarding +the corsages, suffice it to say that he bought them all at what seemed +to me the enormous price of twelve shillings each, giving me a profit of +nearly eleven hundred per cent.</p> + +<p>On my asking where the fair wearers of the article he had bought could +be seen, he told me that all the ladies had gone into the interior. I +hope they found my importations useful; they certainly were not +ornamental.</p> + +<p>Elated as I was by my success, I did not forget the Cockles, and gently +insinuated to my now somewhat excited friend that we might do a little +more trading. To my disgust he told me that he had never heard of such a +thing as Cockle's pills. I strongly urged him to try half-a-dozen, +assuring him that if he once experienced their invigorating effects he +would never cease to recommend them. But the ignorant fellow didn't seem +to see it; for, finishing his brandy and buttoning up his pockets, he +walked on shore. I never thought of naming toothbrushes, for what could +a man who had never heard of Cockles know of the luxury of toothbrushes? +So I sat quietly down, and began to sum up my profits on the <i>corsages</i>.</p> + +<p>I was deeply engaged in this occupation when<a name="Page_100" id="Page_100"></a> I felt a heavy hand on my +shoulder. Turning round I saw my friend the trader, who, after having +smothered my boot in tobacco-juice, said, 'I say, captain, have you got +any coffin-screws on trade?' His question rather staggered me, but he +explained that they had no possible way of making this necessary article +in the Southern States, and that they positively could not keep the +bodies quiet in their coffins without them, especially when being sent +any distance for interment. As I had no acquaintance, I am happy to say, +with the sort of thing he wanted, it was agreed upon between us that I +should send to England for a quantity, he, on his part, promising an +enormous profit on their being delivered.</p> + +<p>I cannot help remarking on the very great inconvenience and distress +that were entailed on the South through the want of almost every +description of manufacture. The Southern States, having always been the +producing portion of the Union, had trusted to the North, and to Europe +for its manufactures. Thus, when they were shut out by land and by sea +from the outer world, their raw material was of but little service to +them. This fact tended, more than is generally believed, to weaken the +Southern people in the glorious struggle they made for what they called +and believed to be their rights,—a struggle, <a name="Page_101" id="Page_101"></a>the horrors of which are +only half understood by those who were not eye-witnesses of it. Whether +the cause was good, whether armed secession was justifiable or not, is a +matter regarding which opinions differ. But it is undeniable that all +fought and endured in a manner worthy of a good and a just cause, and +many were thoroughly and conscientiously convinced it was so. Such men +as Lee, Stonewall Jackson, and others would never have joined any cause +against their convictions; but it won't do for a blockade-runner to +attempt to moralise. So to return to my story.</p> + +<p>My readers will be desirous of knowing what was the result of my +speculation in Cockles and toothbrushes. Regarding the former, I am +sorry to say that all my endeavours to induce my Southern friends to try +their efficacious powers were of no avail, so I determined to take them +with me to Nassau (if I could get there), thinking that I might find a +market at a place where everyone was bilious from over eating and +drinking, on the strength of the fortunes they were making by +blockade-running; and there I found an enterprising druggist who gave me +two chests of lucifer matches in exchange for my Cockles, which matches +I ultimately sold in the Confederacy at a very fair profit. My +toothbrushes <a name="Page_102" id="Page_102"></a>being not in the slightest degree appreciated at +Wilmington, I sent them to Richmond, where they were sold at about seven +times their cost.</p> + +<p>So ended my speculation. The vessel's cargo consisted of blankets, +shoes, Manchester goods of all sorts, and some mysterious cases marked +'hardware,' about which no one asked any questions, but which the +military authorities took possession of. This cargo was landed, and +preparations made for taking on board THE paying article in this trade, +namely, cotton.</p> + +<p>I never bought it in any quantity, but I know that the price in the +Southern States averaged from twopence to threepence a pound, the price +in Liverpool at that time being about half-a-crown.</p> + +<p>We were anxious to try the luck of our run-out before the moon got +powerful, so the cargo was shipped as quickly as possible. In the first +place, the hold was stored by expert stevedores, the cotton-bales being +so closely packed that a mouse could hardly find room to hide itself +among them. The hatches were put on, and a tier of bales put fore and +aft in every available spot on the deck, leaving openings for the +approaches to the cabins, engine-room, and the men's forecastle; then +another somewhat thinner tier on the top of that, after which a few +<a name="Page_103" id="Page_103"></a>bales for the captain and officers, those uncontrollable rascals whom +the poor agents could not manage, and the cargo was complete. Loaded in +this way, the vessel with only her foremast up, with her bow-funnel, and +grey-painted sides, looked more like a huge bale of cotton with a stick +placed upright at one end of it, than anything else I can think of. One +bale for——, and still one more for—— (I never tell tales out of +school), and all was ready.</p> + +<p>We left the quay at Wilmington cheered by the hurrahs of our brother +blockade-runners, who were taking in and discharging their cargoes, and +steamed a short distance down the river, when we were boarded to be +<i>searched</i> and <i>smoked</i>. This latter extraordinary proceeding, called +for perhaps by the existing state of affairs, took me altogether aback. +That a smoking apparatus should be applied to a cargo of cotton seemed +almost astounding. But so it was ordered, the object being to search for +runaways, and, strange to say, its efficacy was apparent, when, after an +hour or more's application of the process (which was by no means a +gentle one), an unfortunate wretch, crushed almost to death by the +closeness of his hiding-place, poked with a long stick till his ribs +must have been like touchwood, and smoked the colour of a backwood +Indian, was dragged by the heels into the <a name="Page_104" id="Page_104"></a>daylight, ignominiously put +into irons, and hurled into the guard-boat. This discovery nearly caused +the detention of the vessel on suspicion of our being the accomplices of +the runaway; but after some deliberation, we were allowed to go on.</p> + +<p>Having steamed down the river a distance of about twenty miles, we +anchored at two o'clock in the afternoon near its mouth. We were hidden +by Fort Fisher from the blockading squadron lying off the bar, there to +remain till some time after nightfall. After anchoring we went on shore +to take a peep at the enemy from the batteries. Its commandant, a fine, +dashing young Confederate officer, who was a firm friend to +blockade-runners, accompanied us round the fort. We counted twenty-five +vessels under weigh; some of them occasionally ventured within range; +but no sooner had one of them done so, than a shot was thrown so +unpleasantly near that she at once moved out again.</p> + +<p>We were much struck with the weakness of Fort Fisher, which, with a +garrison of twelve hundred men, and only half finished, could have been +easily taken at any time since the war began by a resolute body of five +thousand men making a night attack. It is true that at the time of its +capture it was somewhat stronger than at the time I visited it, but even +then <a name="Page_105" id="Page_105"></a>its garrison was comparatively small, and its defences unfinished. +I fancy the bold front so long shown by its occupiers had much to do +with the fact that such an attack was not attempted till just before the +close of the war. The time chosen for our starting was eleven o'clock, +at which hour the tide was at its highest on the bar at the entrance of +the river. Fortunately the moon set about ten, and as it was very +cloudy, we had every reason to expect a pitch-dark night. There were two +or three causes that made one rather more nervous on this occasion than +when leaving Bermuda.</p> + +<p>In the first place, five minutes after we had crossed the bar, we should +be in the thick of the blockaders, who always closed nearer in on the +very dark nights. Secondly, our cargo of cotton was of more importance +than the goods we had carried in; and thirdly, it <i>was the thing to do</i> +to make the double trip in and out safely. There were also all manner of +reports of the new plans that had been arranged by a zealous commodore +lately sent from New York to catch us all. However, it was of no use +canvassing these questions, so at a quarter to eleven we weighed anchor +and steamed down to the entrance of the river.</p> + +<p>Very faint lights, which could not be seen far <a name="Page_106" id="Page_106"></a>at sea, were set on the +beach in the same position as I have before described, having been thus +placed for a vessel coming in; and bringing these astern in an exact +line, that is the two into one, we knew that we were in the passage for +going over the bar. The order was then given, 'Full speed ahead,' and we +shot at a great speed out to sea.</p> + +<p>Our troubles began almost immediately; for the cruisers had placed a +rowing barge, which could not be seen by the forts, close to the +entrance, to signalise the direction which any vessel that came out +might take. This was done by rockets being thrown up by a designed plan +from the barge. We had hardly cleared the bar when we saw this boat very +near our bows, nicely placed to be run clean over, and as we were going +about fourteen knots, her chance of escape would have been small had we +been inclined to finish her. Changing the helm, which I did myself, a +couple of spokes just took us clear. We passed so close that I could +have dropped a biscuit into the boat with ease. I heard the crash of +broken oars against our sides; not a word was spoken.</p> + +<p>I strongly suspect every man in that boat held his breath till the great +white avalanche of cotton, rushing by so unpleasantly near, had passed +quite clear of her.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107"></a>However, they seemed very soon to have recovered themselves, for a +minute had scarcely passed before up went a rocket, which I thought a +very ungrateful proceeding on their part. But they only did their duty, +and perhaps they did not know how nearly they had escaped being made +food for fishes. On the rocket being thrown up, a gun was fired +uncommonly close to us, but as we did not hear any shot, it may have +been only a signal to the cruisers to keep a sharp look-out.</p> + +<p>We steered a mile or two near the coast, always edging a little to the +eastward, and then shaped our course straight out to sea. Several guns +were fired in the pitch-darkness very near us. (I am not quite sure +whether some of the blockaders did not occasionally pepper each other.) +After an hour's fast steaming, we felt moderately safe, and by the +morning had a good offing.</p> + +<p>Daylight broke with thick, hazy weather, nothing being in sight. We went +on all right till half-past eight o'clock, when the weather cleared up, +and there was a large paddle-wheel cruiser (that we must have passed +very near to in the thick weather) about six miles astern of us. The +moment she saw us she gave chase. After running for a quarter of an hour +it was evident that with our heavy cargo on board, the <a name="Page_108" id="Page_108"></a>cruiser had the +legs of us, and as there was a long day before us for the chase, things +looked badly. We moved some cotton aft to immerse our screws well; but +still the cruiser was steadily decreasing her distance from us, when an +incident of a very curious nature favoured us for a time.</p> + +<p>It is mentioned in the book of sailing directions, that the course of +the Gulf Stream (in the vicinity of which we knew we were) is in calm +weather and smooth water plainly marked out by a ripple on its inner and +outer edges. We clearly saw, about a mile ahead of us, a remarkable +ripple, which we rightly, as it turned out, conjectured was that +referred to in the book. As soon as we had crossed it, we steered the +usual course of the current of the Gulf Stream, that here ran from two +to three miles an hour. Seeing us alter our course, the cruiser did the +same; but she had <i>not</i> crossed the ripple on the edge of the stream, +and the course she was now steering tended to keep her for some time +from doing so. The result soon made it evident that the observations in +the book were correct; for until she too crossed the ripple into the +stream, we dropped her rapidly astern, whereby we increased our distance +to at least seven miles.</p> + +<p>It was now noon, from which time the enemy <a name="Page_109" id="Page_109"></a>again began to close with +us, and at five o'clock was not more than three miles distant. At six +o'clock she opened a harmless fire with the Parrot gun in her bow, the +shot falling far short of us. The sun set at a quarter to seven, by +which time she had got so near that she managed to send two or three +shots over us, and was steadily coming up.</p> + +<p>Luckily, as night came on, the weather became very cloudy, and we were +on the dark side of the moon, now setting in the West, which +occasionally breaking through the clouds astern of the cruiser, showed +us all her movements, while we must have been very difficult to make +out, though certainly not more than a mile off. All this time she kept +firing away, thinking, I suppose, that she would frighten us into +stopping. If we had gone straight on, we should doubtless have been +caught; so we altered our course two points to the eastward. After +steaming a short distance we stopped quite still, blowing off steam +under water, not a spark or the slightest smoke showing from the funnel; +and we had the indescribable satisfaction of seeing our enemy steam past +us, still firing ahead at some imaginary vessel.</p> + +<p>This had been a most exciting chase and a very narrow escape; night only +saved us from a New York <a name="Page_110" id="Page_110"></a>prison. All this hard running had made an +awful hole in our coal-bunkers, and as it was necessary to keep a stock +for a run off the blockaded Bahama Islands, we were obliged to reduce +our expenditure to as small a quantity as possible. However we were well +out to sea, and after having passed the line of cruisers between +Wilmington and Bermuda, we had not much to fear till we approached the +British possessions of Nassau and the adjacent islands, where two or +three very fast American vessels were cruising, although five hundred +miles from American waters. I am ignorant, I confess, of the laws of +blockade, or indeed if a law there be that allows its enforcement, and +penalties to be enacted, five hundred miles away from the ports +blockaded. But it did seem strange that the men-of-war of a nation at +peace with England should be allowed to cruise off her ports, to stop +and examine trading vessels of all descriptions, to capture and send to +New York, for adjudication, vessels on the mere suspicion of their being +intended blockade-runners; and to chase and fire into real +blockade-runners so near to the shore that on one occasion the shot and +shell fell into a fishing village, and that within sight of an English +man-of-war lying at anchor in the harbour at Nassau. Surely it is time +that some well-understood laws <a name="Page_111" id="Page_111"></a>should be made, and rules laid down, or +such doings will sooner or later recoil on their authors.</p> + +<p>Having so little coal on board, we determined on making for the nearest +point of the Bahama Islands, and luckily reached a queer little island +called Green Turtle Quay, on the extreme north of the group, where was a +small English colony, without being seen by the cruisers. We had not +been there long, however, before one of them came sweeping round the +shore, and stopped unpleasantly near to us; even though we were inside +the rock she hovered about outside, not a mile from us.</p> + +<p>We were a tempting bait, but a considerable risk to snap, and I suppose +the American captain could not quite make up his mind to capture a +vessel (albeit a blockade-runner piled full of cotton) lying in an +English port, insignificant though that port might be. We had got a +large white English ensign hoisted on a pole, thereby showing the +nationality of the rock, should the cruiser be inclined to question it. +After many longing looks, she steamed slowly away, much to our +satisfaction. Coals were sent to us from Nassau the next day, which +having been taken on board, we weighed anchor, keeping close to the +reefs and islands all the way. We steamed towards that port, and arrived +safely, having made <a name="Page_112" id="Page_112"></a>the in-and-out voyage, including the time in +unloading and loading at Wilmington, in sixteen days.</p> + +<p>To attempt to describe at length the state of things at this usually +tranquil and unfrequented little spot is beyond my powers. I will only +mention some of its most striking features. Nassau differed much from +Wilmington, inasmuch as at the latter place there was a considerable +amount of poverty and distress, and men's minds were weighted with many +troubles and anxieties; whereas, at Nassau, everything at the time I +speak of was <i>couleur de rose</i>. Every one seemed prosperous and happy. +You met with calculating, far-seeing men who were steadily employed in +feathering their nests, let the war in America end as it might; others +who, in the height of their enthusiasm for the Southern cause, put their +last farthing into Confederate securities, anticipating enormous +profits; some men, careless and thoughtless, living for the hour, were +spending their dollars as fast as they made them, forgetting that they +would 'never see the like again.' There were rollicking captains and +officers of blockade-runners, and drunken swaggering crews; sharpers +looking out for victims; Yankee spies; and insolent worthless <i>free +niggers</i>—all these combined made a most heterogeneous, though +interesting, crowd.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113"></a>The inhabitants of Nassau, who, until the period of blockade-running, +had, with some exceptions, subsisted on a precarious and somewhat +questionable livelihood gained by wrecking, had their heads as much +turned as the rest of the world. Living was exorbitantly dear, as can be +well imagined, when the captain of a blockade-runner could realise in a +month a sum as large as the Governor's salary. The expense of living was +so great that the officers of the West India regiment quartered here had +to apply for special allowance, and I believe their application was +successful. The hotel, a large building, hitherto a most ruinous +speculation, began to realise enormous profits. In fact, the almighty +dollar was spent as freely as the humble cent had been before this +golden era in the annals of Nassau.</p> + +<p>As we had to stay here till the time for the dark nights came round +again, we took it easy, and thoroughly enjoyed all the novelty of the +scene. Most liberal entertainment was provided free by our owner's +agent, and altogether we found Nassau very jolly: so much so, that we +felt almost sorry when 'time' was called, and we had to prepare for +another run. In fact, it was pleasanter in blockade-running to look +backwards than forwards, especially if one had been so far in good luck.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114"></a></p> +<h3><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h3> + +<h4>A VISIT TO CHARLESTON.</h4> + + +<p>All being ready, we steamed out of Nassau harbour, and were soon again +in perilous waters. We had a distant chase now and then—a mere child's +play to us after our experience—and on the third evening of our voyage +we were pretty well placed for making a run through the blockading +squadron as soon as it was dark. As the moon rose at twelve o'clock, it +was very important that we should get into port before she threw a light +upon the subject.</p> + +<p>Unfortunately, we were obliged to alter our course or stop so often to +avoid cruisers that we ran our time too close; for, as we were getting +near to the line of blockade, a splendid three-quarter-size moon rose, +making everything as clear as day. Trying to pass through the line of +vessels ahead with such a bright light shining would have been madness; +in fact, it was dangerous to be moving <a name="Page_115" id="Page_115"></a>about at all in such clear +weather, so we steamed towards the land on the extreme left of the line +of cruisers, and having made it out, went quite close inshore and +anchored.</p> + +<p>By lying as close as we dare to the beach, we must have had the +appearance of forming part of the low sand-hills, which were about the +height and colour of the vessel; the wood on their tops forming a +background which hid the small amount of funnel and mast that showed +above the decks. We must have been nearly invisible, for we had scarcely +been an hour at anchor when a gun-boat came steaming along the shore +very near to the beach; and while we were breathlessly watching her, +hoping that she would go past, she dropped anchor alongside of us, a +little outside where we were lying—so close that we not only heard +every order that was given on board, but could almost make out the +purport of the ordinary conversation of the people on her decks. A +pistol shot would have easily reached us. Our position was most +unpleasant, to say the least of it. We could not stay where we were, as +it only wanted two hours to daybreak. If we had attempted to weigh +anchor, we must have been heard doing so. However, we had sufficient +steam at command to make a run for it. So, after waiting a little to +allow <a name="Page_116" id="Page_116"></a>the cruiser's fires to get low, we knocked the pin out of the +shackle of the chain on deck, and easing the cable down into the water, +went ahead with one engine and astern with the other, to turn our vessel +round head to seaward.</p> + +<p>Imagine our consternation when, as she turned, she struck the shore +before coming half round (she had been lying with her head inshore, so +now it was pointed along the beach, luckily in the right direction, i.e. +lying from the cruiser). There was nothing left to us but to put on full +speed, and if possible force her from the obstruction, which after two +or three hard bumps we succeeded in doing.</p> + +<p>After steaming quite close to the beach for a little way, we stopped to +watch the gun-boat, which, after resting for an hour or so, weighed +anchor and steamed along the beach in the opposite direction to the way +we had been steering, and was soon out of sight. So we steamed a short +distance inshore and anchored again. It would have been certain capture +to have gone out to sea just before daybreak, so we made the little +craft as invisible as possible, and remained all the next day, trusting +to our luck not to be seen. And our luck favoured us; for, although we +saw several cruisers at a distance, none noticed us, which seems almost +miraculous.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117"></a>Thus passed Christmas Day, 1863, and an anxious day it was to all of +us. We might have landed our cargo where we were lying, but it would +have been landed in a dismal swamp, and we should have been obliged to +go into Wilmington for our cargo of cotton.</p> + +<p>When night closed in we weighed anchor and steamed to the entrance of +the river, which, from our position being so well defined, we had no +difficulty in making out. We received a broadside from a savage little +gun-boat quite close inshore, her shot passing over us, and that was +all. We got comfortably to the anchorage about half-past eleven o'clock, +and so ended our second journey in.</p> + +<p>I determined this time to have a look at Charleston, which was then +undergoing a lengthened and destructive siege. So, after giving over my +craft into the hands of the owner's representatives, who would unload +and put her cargo of cotton on board, I took my place in the train and, +after passing thirty-six of the most miserable hours in my life +travelling the distance of one hundred and forty miles, I arrived at the +capital of South Carolina, or rather near to that city—for the train, +disgusted I suppose with itself, ran quietly off the line about two +miles from the station into a meadow. The passengers seemed perfectly +contented, and shouldering their <a name="Page_118" id="Page_118"></a>baggage walked off into the town. I +mechanically followed with my portmanteau, and in due course arrived at +the only hotel, where I was informed I might have half a room.</p> + +<p>Acting on a hint I received from a black waiter that food was being +devoured in the coffee-room, and that if I did not look out for myself I +should have to do without that essential article for the rest of the +day, I hurried into the <i>salle-à-manger</i>, where two long tables were +furnished with all the luxuries then to be obtained in Charleston, which +luxuries consisted of lumps of meat supposed to be beef, boiled Indian +corn, and I think there were the remains of a feathered biped or two, to +partake of which I was evidently too late. All these washed down with +water, or coffee without sugar, were not very tempting; but human nature +must be supported, so to it I set, and having swallowed a sufficient +quantity of animal food, I went off to my room to take a pull at a +bottle of brandy which I had sagaciously stored in my carpet-bag. But, +alas! for the morals of the beleaguered city. I found, on arriving +there, a nigger extended at full length in happy oblivion on the floor, +with the few clothes I had with me forming his pillow, and the brandy +bottle rolling about alongside of him, empty.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119"></a>I first of all hammered his head against the floor, but the floor had +the worst of it; then I kicked his shins (the only vulnerable part of a +nigger), but it was of no use; so pouring the contents of a water jug +over him, in the hope that I might thus cause awful dreams to disturb +his slumbers, I left him, voting myself a muff for leaving the key in my +box.</p> + +<p>Having letters of introduction to some of General Beauregard's staff, I +made my way to headquarters, where I met with the greatest courtesy and +kindness. An orderly was sent with me to show me the top of the tower, a +position that commanded a famous view of the besieging army, the +blockading squadron, and all the defences of the place. A battery had +just been placed by the enemy (consisting of five Parrot guns of heavy +calibre) five miles from the town, and that day had opened fire for the +first time. At that enormous range the shell occasionally burst over or +fell into the city, doing, however, little damage. The elevation of the +guns must have been unusually great. I am told that every one of them +burst after a week's, or thereabouts, firing. Poor Fort Sumter was +nearly silenced after many months' hammering, but its brave defenders +remained in it to the last, and it was not till a few days before<a name="Page_120" id="Page_120"></a> +Charleston was abandoned that they gave it up. At the time I speak of +the whole of the western beach was in the hands of the enemy, Battery +Wagner having succumbed after one of the most gallant defences on +record. While it remained in the hands of the Southerners it assisted +Fort Sumter, inasmuch as from its position it kept the enemy at a +distance, but after its capture, or rather destruction, the latter fort +was exposed to a tremendous fire from ships and batteries, and its solid +front was terribly crumbled.</p> + +<p>Surrounded, however, with water as it was, it would have been most +difficult to take by assault; and from what I could learn, certain +destruction would have met any body of men who had attempted it +latterly. There it stood, sulkily firing a shot or shell now and then, +more out of defiance than anything else. The blockading, or rather +bombarding, squadron was lying pretty near to it on the western side of +the entrance to the harbour; but on the east side, formidable batteries +belonging to the Southerners kept them at a respectable distance. +Blockade-running into Charleston was quite at an end at the time I am +writing about. Not that I think the cruisers could have kept vessels +from getting in, but for the reason that the harbour was a perfect +network of torpedoes and infernal machines (the passage <a name="Page_121" id="Page_121"></a>through which +was only known to a few persons), placed by the Southerners to prevent +the Northern fleet from approaching the city.</p> + +<p>Having had a good look at the positions of the attacking and defending +parties, I went down from the tower and paid a visit to a battery where +two Blakely guns of heavy calibre, that had lately been run through the +blockade in the well-known 'Sumter' (now the 'Gibraltar'), were mounted. +These guns threw a shot of 720 lbs. weight, and were certainly +masterpieces of design and execution. Unhappily, proper instructions for +loading had not accompanied them from England, and on the occasion of +the first round being fired from one of them, the gun not being properly +loaded, cracked at the breech, and was rendered useless; the other, +however, did good service, throwing shot with accuracy at great +distances. I saw much that was interesting here, but more able pens than +mine have already described fully the details of that long siege, where +on one hand all modern appliances of war that ingenuity could conceive +or money purchase were put into the hands of brave and determined +soldiers; on the other hand were bad arms, bad powder, bad provisions, +bad everything; desperate courage and unheard-of self-denial being all +the Southerners had to depend upon.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122"></a>These poor Southerners never began to open their eyes to the +hopelessness of their cause till Sherman's almost unopposed march showed +the weakness of the whole country. Even strangers like myself were so +carried away with the enthusiasm of the moment, that we shut our eyes to +what should have been clearly manifest to us. We could not believe that +men who were fighting and enduring as these men were could ever be +beaten. Some of their leaders must have foreseen that the catastrophe +was coming months before it occurred; but, if they did so, they were +afraid to make their opinion public.</p> + +<p>On returning to the hotel, I found it full of people of all classes +indulging in tobacco (the only solace left them) in every form. It is +all very well to say that smoking is a vile habit; so it may be, when +indulged in by luxurious fellows who eat and drink their full every day, +and are rarely without a cigar or pipe in their mouths; it may, perhaps, +be justly said that such men abuse the use of the glorious narcotic +supplied by Providence for men's consolation under difficulties. But +when a man has hard mental and bodily work, and barely enough food to +support nature, water being his only drink, then give him tobacco, and +he will thoroughly appreciate it. Besides, it will do him real good. I +think that at any time <a name="Page_123" id="Page_123"></a>its use in moderation is harmless and often +beneficial, but under the circumstances I speak of it is a luxury +without price.</p> + +<p>During the evening I met at the hotel a Confederate naval officer who +was going to attempt that night to carry havoc among the blockading +squadron by means of a cigar-shaped vessel of a very curious +description.</p> + +<p>This vessel was a screw steamer of sixty feet in length, with eight feet +beam. She lay, before being prepared for the important service on which +she was going, with about two feet of her hull showing above the water, +at each end of which, on the shoulder as it were of the cigar, was a +small hatch or opening, just large enough to allow a man to pop through +it: from her bows projected a long iron outrigger, at the end of which +there was fixed a torpedo that would explode on coming into contact with +a vessel's side.</p> + +<p>When the crew were on board, and had gone down into the vessel through +one of the hatches above mentioned, the said hatches were firmly closed, +and by arrangements that were made from the inside the vessel was sunk +about six inches below the water, leaving merely a small portion of the +funnel showing. Steam and smoke being got rid of below water, the vessel +was invisible, torpedo and all being immersed.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124"></a>The officer having thus described his vessel, wished me good-night, and +started on his perilous enterprise. I met him again next evening quietly +smoking his pipe. I eagerly asked him what he had done, when he told me +with the greatest <i>sang-froid</i> that he had gone on board his vessel with +a crew of seven men; that everything for a time had gone like clockwork; +they were all snug below with hatches closed, the vessel was sunk to the +required depth, and was steadily steaming down the harbour, apparently +perfectly water-tight, when suddenly the sea broke through the foremost +hatch and she went to the bottom immediately. He said he did not know +how he escaped. He imagined that after the vessel had filled he had +managed to escape through the aperture by which the water got in; all +the rest of the poor fellows were drowned. Not that my friend seemed to +think anything of that, for human life was very little thought of in +those times. This vessel was afterwards got up, when the bodies of her +crew were still in her hold. I imagined that the vessel contained +sufficient air to enable her to remain under water two or three hours, +or maybe some method was practised by which air could be introduced by +the funnel; at all events, had she been successful on that night, she +would undoubtedly have caused a good <a name="Page_125" id="Page_125"></a>deal of damage and loss to the +blockading squadron, who were constantly harassed by all sorts of +infernal machines, torpedoes, fire-vessels, &c., which were sent out +against them by ingenious Southerners, whose fertile imaginations were +constantly conceiving some new invention.</p> + +<p>On the next occasion that same enterprising officer was employed on a +similar enterprise, his efforts were crowned with complete success.</p> + +<p>He started one dark night, in a submerged vessel of the same kind as +that above described, and exploded the torpedo against the bows of one +of the blockading squadron, doing so much damage that the vessel had to +be run on shore to prevent her sinking.</p> + +<p>I must, before finishing my account of what I saw and did in Charleston, +mention a circumstance that showed how little the laws of <i>meum</i> and +<i>tuum</i> are respected during war times. The morning before I left, I had +a fancy for having my coat brushed and my shoes polished. So having +deposited these articles on a chair at the door of my room, I went to +bed again to have another snooze, hoping to find them cleaned when I +awoke. After an hour or so I got up to dress, and rang the bell several +times without getting any answer. So I opened the door and looked out +into the passage. To my surprise I saw <a name="Page_126" id="Page_126"></a>an individual sitting on the +chair on which I had put my clothes, trying on one of my boots. He had +succeeded in getting it half on when it had stuck, and at the time I +discovered him he seemed to be in a fix, inasmuch as he could neither +get the boot off nor on. He was struggling violently with my poor boot, +as if it were his personal enemy, and swearing like a trooper. Not +wishing to increase his ire, I blandly insinuated that the boots were +mine, on which he turned his wrath towards me, making most unpleasant +remarks, which he wound up by saying that in these times anything that a +man could pick up lying about was his lawful property, and that he was +astonished at my impudence in asking for the boots. However, as the +darned things would not fit him 'no how,' he guessed I was welcome to +them; and giving a vicious tug to the boot to get it off, he succeeded +in doing so, and I, picking it up with its fellow, made good my retreat. +But where was my coat? I could not get an echo of an answer, where? So I +went downstairs and told my piteous tale to the landlord, who laughed at +my troubles, and told me he could not give me the slightest hopes of +ever seeing it again; but he offered to lend me a garment in which to +travel to Wilmington, which offer I gladly accepted.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127"></a></p> +<h3><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII.</h3> + +<h4>NEVER CAUGHT!</h4> + + +<p>On my return to Wilmington I found that my vessel was ready for sea, so +I took charge of her, and we went down the river.</p> + +<p>We had to undergo the same ordeal as before in the way of being smoked +and searched. This time there were no runaways discovered, but there was +one on board for all that, who made his appearance, almost squashed to +death, after we had been twenty-four hours at sea. We then anchored +under Fort Fisher, where we waited until it was dark, after which, when +the tide was high enough on the bar, we made a move and were soon +rushing out to sea at full speed. There was a considerable swell +running, which we always considered a point in our favour. By the way, +writing of swells puts me in mind of a certain 'swell' I had on board as +passenger on this occasion, who, while in Wilmington, had been talking +<a name="Page_128" id="Page_128"></a>very big about 'hunting,' which probably he supposed I knew nothing +about. He used to give us long narratives of his own exploits in the +hunting-field, and expatiated on the excitement of flying over ditches +and hedges, while apparently he looked upon blockade-running and its +petty risks with sublime contempt. Soon after we crossed the bar on our +way out a gentle breeze and swell began to lift the vessel up and down, +and this motion he described as 'very like hunting.'</p> + +<p>Just after he had ventured this remark, a Yankee gun-boat favoured us +with a broadside and made a dash to cut us off. This part of the fun, +however, my friend did not seem to think at all 'like hunting,' and +after having strongly urged me to return to the anchorage under the +protecting guns of the fort, he disappeared below, and never talked, to +me at least, about hunting again.</p> + +<p>But to return to my story, there was, as I said before, a considerable +swell running outside, which was fortunate for us, as we ran almost into +a gunboat lying watching unusually close to the bar. It would have been +useless to turn round and endeavour to escape by going back, as, if we +had done so, we should inevitably have been driven on to the beach, and +either captured or destroyed. In such a predica<a name="Page_129" id="Page_129"></a>ment there was nothing +for it but to make a dash past and take the gun-boat's fire and its +consequences. I knew we had the legs of her, and therefore felt more at +ease in thus running the gauntlet than I otherwise should have done, so +on we went at full speed. She fired her broadside at about fifty yards +distance, but the shot all passed over us, except one that went through +our funnel. The marines on board of her kept up a heavy fire of musketry +as long as we were visible, but only slightly wounded one of our men. +Rockets were then thrown up as signals to her consorts, two of which +came down on us, but luckily made a bad guess at our position, and +closed with us on our quarter instead of our bow. They also opened fire, +but did us no injury. At the moment there was no vessel in sight ahead; +and as we were going at a splendid pace, we soon reduced our dangerous +companions to three or four shadowy forms struggling astern without a +hope of catching us. The signalising and firing had, however, brought +several other blockaders down to dispute our passage, and we found +ourselves at one moment with a cruiser on each side within a pistol shot +of us; our position being that of the meat in a sandwich. So near were +the cruisers, that they seemed afraid to fire from the danger of hitting +each <a name="Page_130" id="Page_130"></a>other, and, thanks to our superior speed, we shot ahead and left +them without their having fired a shot.</p> + +<p>Considering the heavy swell that was running, there was the merest +chance of their hitting us; in fact, to take a blockade-runner in the +night, when there was a heavy swell or wind, if she did not choose to +give in, was next to impossible. To run her down required the cruiser to +have much superior speed, and was a dangerous game to play, for vessels +have been known to go down themselves while acting that part.</p> + +<p>Then, again, it must be borne in mind that the blockade-runner had +always full speed at command, her steam being at all times well up and +every one on board on the look-out; whereas the man-of-war must be +steaming with some degree of economy and ease, and her look-out men had +not the excitement to keep them always on the <i>qui vive</i> that we had.</p> + +<p>I consider that the only chances the blockading squadron had of +capturing a blockade-runner were in the following instances; viz., in a +fair chase in daylight, when superior speed would tell, or chasing her +on shore, or driving her in so near the beach that her crew were driven +to set fire to her and make their escape; in which case a prize might be +<a name="Page_131" id="Page_131"></a>made, though perhaps of no great value; or frightening a vessel by guns +and rockets during the night into giving up. Some of the +blockade-runners showed great pluck, and stood a lot of pitching into. +About sixty-six vessels left England and New York to run the blockade +during the four years' war, of which more than forty were destroyed by +their own crews or captured; but most of them made several runs before +they came to grief, and in so doing paid well for their owners.</p> + +<p>I once left Bermuda, shortly before the end of the war, in company with +four others, and was the only fortunate vessel of the lot. Of the other +four, three were run on shore and destroyed by their own crews, and one +was fairly run down at sea and captured.</p> + +<p>I saw an extraordinarily plucky thing done on one occasion, which I +cannot refrain from narrating. We had made a successful run through the +blockade, and were lying under Fort Fisher, when as daylight broke we +heard a heavy firing, and as it got lighter we saw a blockade-runner +surrounded by the cruisers. Her case seemed hopeless, but on she came +for the entrance, hunted like a rabbit by no end of vessels. The guns of +the fort were at once manned, ready to protect her as soon as her +pursuers should come <a name="Page_132" id="Page_132"></a>within range. Every effort was made to cut her off +from the entrance of the river, and how it was she was not sunk I cannot +tell. As she came on we could see N——, her commander, a well-known +successful blockade-runner, standing on her paddle-box with his hat off, +as if paying proper respect to the men-of-war. And now the fort opened +fire at the chasing cruisers, from whom the blockade-runner was +crawling, being by this time well inshore. One vessel was evidently +struck, as she dropped out of range very suddenly. On came the 'Old +J——,' one of the fastest boats in the trade, and anchored all right; +two or three shots in her hull, but no hurt. Didn't we cheer her! the +reason of her being in the position in which we saw her at daylight was +that she had run the time rather short, and daylight broke before she +could get into the river; so that, instead of being there, she was in +the very centre of the blockading fleet. Many men would have given in, +but old N—— was made of different stuff.</p> + +<p>We got well clear of the cruisers before daybreak, and keeping far out +to sea, were unmolested during the run to Nassau, where we arrived +safely with our second cargo of cotton, having this time been eighteen +days making the round trip.</p> + +<p>Having made two round trips, we could afford <a name="Page_133" id="Page_133"></a>to take it easy for a +short time, and as the dark nights would not come on for three weeks, we +gave the little craft a thorough refit, hauling her up on a patent slip +that an adventurous American had laid down especially for +blockade-runners, and for the use of which we had to pay a price which +would have astonished some of our large ship-owners. I may mention that +blockade-runners always lived well; may be acting on the principle that +'good people are scarce'; so we kept a famous table and drank the best +of wine. An English man-of-war was lying in the harbour, whose officers +frequently condescended to visit us, and whose mouths watered at what +they saw and heard of the profits and pleasures of blockade-running. +Indeed, putting on one side the sordid motives which I dare say to a +certain extent actuated us, there was a thrilling and glorious +excitement about the work, which would have well suited some of these +gay young fellows.</p> + +<p>Time again came round too soon, and we had to start on another trip, and +to tear ourselves away from all sorts of amusements, some of us from +domestic ties: for there were instances of anxious wives who, having +followed their husbands to the West Indies, vastly enjoyed all the +novelty of the scene. These ladies had their pet ships, in whose +captains they <a name="Page_134" id="Page_134"></a>had confidence, and in which they sent private ventures +into the Confederacy; and in this way some of them made a nice little +addition to their pin-money. I don't know that any of them speculated in +Cockle's pills or corsages, but I heard of one lady who sent in a large +quantity of yellow soap, and made an enormous profit out of her venture.</p> + +<p>Having completed the necessary alterations and repairs, and made all +snug for a fresh run, we started again from the port of Nassau. We had +scarcely steamed along the coast forty miles from the mouth of the +harbour, when we discovered a steamer bearing down on us, and we soon +made her out to be a well-known, very fast Yankee cruiser, of whom we +were all terribly afraid. As we were still in British waters, skirting +the shore of the Bahamas, I determined not to change my course, but kept +steadily on, always within a mile of the shore. On the man-of-war firing +a shot across our bows as a signal for us to heave to, I hoisted the +English colours and anchored. An American officer came on board, who, +seeing unmistakable proofs of the occupation we were engaged in, seemed +very much inclined to make a prize of us; but on my informing him that I +claimed exemption from capture on the ground of the vessel being in +British waters, he, after due <a name="Page_135" id="Page_135"></a>consideration, sulkily wished me good +morning and went back to his ship. She continued to watch us till the +middle of the night, when I imagine something else attracted her +attention, and she steamed away. We, taking advantage of her temporary +absence, weighed our anchor and were soon far out at sea.</p> + +<p>At the end of three days we had run into a position about sixty miles +from Wilmington without any incident happening worth mentioning. On our +nearing the blockading squadron at nightfall we heard a great deal of +firing going on inshore, which we conjectured (rightly as it afterwards +appeared) was caused by the American ships, who were chasing and +severely handling a blockade-runner. An idea at once struck me, which I +quickly put into execution. We steamed in as fast as we could, and soon +made out a vessel ahead that was hurrying in to help her consorts to +capture or destroy the contraband. We kept close astern of her, and in +this position followed the cruiser several miles. She made signals +continually by flashing different coloured lights rapidly from the +paddle-boxes, the meaning of which I tried my best to make out, so that +I might be able to avail myself of the knowledge of the blockade signals +at some future time; but I could not manage to make head or tail of +them.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136"></a>Suddenly the firing ceased, and our pioneer turned out to sea again. As +we were by this time very near inshore, we stopped the engines and +remained quite still, but unluckily could not make out our exact +position.</p> + +<p>The blockading cruisers were evidently very close in, so we did not like +moving about; besides, the pilot was confident that we were close enough +to the entrance of the river to enable us to run in when day broke, +without being in any danger from the enemy.</p> + +<p>Thus for the remainder of the night we lay quite close to the beach. +Unfortunately, however, about an hour before daylight we struck the +shore, and all our efforts to free the vessel were of no avail.</p> + +<p>As the day dawned we found that we were about a mile from Fort Fisher, +and that two of the American vessels nearest the shore were about a mile +from us when we first made them out, and were steaming to seaward, +having probably been lying pretty near to the river's mouth during the +darkness of the night. They were not slow to make us out in our unhappy +position. I ordered the boats to be lowered, and gave every one on board +the option of leaving the vessel, as it seemed evident that we were +<a name="Page_137" id="Page_137"></a>doomed to be a bone of contention between the fort and the blockaders. +All hands, however, stuck to the ship, and we set to work to lighten her +as much as possible. Steam being got up to the highest pressure, the +engines worked famously, but she would not move, and I feared the sand +would get into the bilges. And now a confounded vessel deliberately +tried the range with her Parrot gun, and the shot splashed alongside of +us. Her fire, however, was promptly replied to by Fort Fisher. The shot +from the fort's heavy artillery passed right over and close to the +cruiser, and made her move further out, and thus spoiled the accuracy of +the range of our devoted little craft, which the man-of-war had so +correctly obtained. We made a frantic effort to get off our sandy bed, +and on all hands running from one extremity of the vessel to the other, +to our delight she slipped off into deep water.</p> + +<p>But our troubles were not yet over. To get into the river's mouth it was +necessary to make a <i>détour</i>, to do which we had to steer out towards +the blockading fleet for a quarter of a mile before we could turn to go +into the river. While we were performing this somewhat ticklish +manœuvre, Fort Fisher most kindly opened a heavy fire from all its guns, +and thus drew the attention of the blockaders <a name="Page_138" id="Page_138"></a>from us. In twenty +minutes from the time we got off we were safely at anchor under the +Confederate batteries. The vessel that had been so hard chased and fired +at during the night was lying safely at the anchorage, not very much +damaged.</p> + +<p>This was by far the most anxious time we had gone through. We had to +thank the commandant and garrison of Fort Fisher for our escape. Having +paid our gallant rescuers a visit, we took a pilot on board and steamed +up to Wilmington. Cape Clear river at this time was full of all sorts of +torpedoes and obstructions, put down to prevent any gun-boats from +approaching the town of Wilmington, should the forts at its entrance be +taken possession of by the enemy. And as the whereabouts of these +obstructions were only known to certain pilots, we had to be careful to +have the right man on board. We got up in safety, and finding that our +cargo of cotton was ready, made haste to unload and prepare for sea +again as quickly as possible.</p> + +<p>There was nothing interesting in Wilmington, which is a large straggling +town built on sand-hills. At the time I write of the respectable +inhabitants were nearly all away from their homes, and the town was full +of adventurers of all descriptions; some who came to sell cotton, others +to buy at enormous prices<a name="Page_139" id="Page_139"></a> European goods brought in by +blockade-runners. These goods they took with them into the interior, +and, adding a heavy percentage to the price, people who were forced to +buy them paid most ruinous prices for the commonest necessaries of life.</p> + +<p>On this occasion we spent a very short time at Wilmington, and having +taken our cargo of cotton, we went down the river to the old waiting +place under the friendly batteries of Fort Fisher. We had scarcely +anchored when a heavy fog came on; as the tide for going over the bar +did not suit till three o'clock in the morning, which I considered an +awkward time, inasmuch as we should only have two hours of darkness left +in which to get our offing from the land, I determined to go out in the +fog and take my chance of the thick weather lasting. I calculated that +if we had met with any cruisers, they would not have been expecting us, +and so would have been under low steam.</p> + +<p>I was told by every one that I was mad to venture out, and all sorts of +prognostications were made that I should come to grief, in spite of +which omens of disaster, however, I went over the bar at four o'clock in +the afternoon in a fog, through which I could hardly see from one end of +the ship to the other, and took my chance. As we went on the fog <a name="Page_140" id="Page_140"></a>seemed +to get if possible still thicker, and through the night it was +impossible for us to see anything or anything to see us.</p> + +<p>In the morning we had an offing of at least a hundred and twenty miles, +and nothing was in sight. We made a most prosperous voyage, and arrived +at Nassau safely in seventy-two hours, thus completing our third round +trip.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141"></a></p> +<h3><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV.</h3> + +<h4>LAST DAYS ON THE 'D——N.'</h4> + + +<p>As no vessel had succeeded since the blockade was established in getting +into Savannah (a large and flourishing town in Georgia, situated a few +miles up a navigable river of the same name), where there was a famous +market for all sorts of goods, and where plenty of the finest sea-island +cotton was stored ready for embarkation, and as the southern port pilots +were of opinion that all that was required to ensure success was an +effort to obtain it, I undertook to try if we could manage to get the +'D——n' in.</p> + +<p>The principal difficulty we had to contend with was that the Northerners +had possession of a large fortification called Pulaski, which, being +situated at the entrance of the river, commanded the passage up to the +town.</p> + +<p>To pass this place in the night seemed easy work enough, as it would be +hard for the sentry to <a name="Page_142" id="Page_142"></a>make a vessel out disguised as we were; but to +avoid the shoals and sand-banks at the river's mouth, in a pitch-dark +night, seemed to me, after carefully studying the chart, to be a most +difficult matter. This, however, was the pilot's business; all we +captains had to do was to avoid dangers from the guns of ships and +forts; or, if we could not avoid them, to stand being fired at.</p> + +<p>The pilot we had engaged was full of confidence; so much so, that he +refused to have any payment for his services until he had taken us in +and out safely. I may as well mention that there were few if any +blockading vessels off Savannah river, the Northerners having perfect +confidence, I presume, in Fort Pulaski and the shoals which surrounded +the entrance of the river being sufficient to prevent any attempt at +blockade-running succeeding. The lights in the ship off Port Royal, a +small harbour in the hands of the Northern Government, a few miles from +the entrance to Savannah, were as bright as in the time of peace, and +served as a capital guide to the river's mouth. After two days' run from +Nassau we arrived without accident to within twenty miles of the low +land through which the Savannah river runs, and at dark steered for the +light-vessel lying off Port Royal. Having made it out, in fact steaming +close <a name="Page_143" id="Page_143"></a>up to it, we shaped our course for Fort Pulaski, using the light +as a point of departure, the distance by the chart being twelve miles. +We soon saw its outlines looming through the darkness ahead, and +formidable though it looked, it caused me no anxiety, compared with the +danger we seemed to be in from the shoalwater and breakers being all +around us. However, the pilot who had charge of such matters seemed +comfortable enough.</p> + +<p>So we went cautiously along, and in ten minutes would have been past +danger, at all events from the batteries on the fort, when one of the +severest storms I ever remember of wind and rain, accompanied by thunder +and lightning, came on, and enveloped us in a most impenetrable +darkness. Knowing that we were surrounded by most dangerous shoals, and +being then in only fifteen feet water, I felt our position to be a very +perilous one. The pilot had by this time pretty well lost his head; in +fact, it would have puzzled anyone to say where we were. So we turned +round and steered out to sea again, by the same way we had come in; and +when we were as near as we could guess twenty miles from land, we let go +our anchor in fifteen fathoms water.</p> + +<p>Then came on a heavy gale of wind accompanied by a thick fog, which +lasted three days and nights.<a name="Page_144" id="Page_144"></a> I never in my life passed such an +unpleasant time, rolling our gunnels under, knowing that we were +drifting, our anchor having dragged, but in what direction it was +difficult to judge; unable to cook, through the sea we had shipped +having put our galley-fire out; and, worse than all, burning quantities +of coal, as we had to keep steam always well up, ready for anything that +might happen.</p> + +<p>One day it cleared up for half an hour about noon, and we managed to get +meridian observations, which showed us that we had drifted thirty miles +of latitude, but we still remained in ignorance of our longitude. On the +fourth day the gale moderated, the weather cleared up, and we +ascertained our position correctly by observations.</p> + +<p>When it was dark we steered for the light-vessel off Port Royal, +meaning, as before, to make her our point of departure for the entrance +of the river. But we went on and on, and we could not see the glimmer of +a light or even anything of a vessel (we found out afterwards that the +light-ship had been blown from her moorings in the gale). This was a +nice mess. The pilot told us that to attempt to run for the entrance +without having the bearings of the light to guide us would have been +perfect madness. We had barely enough coals to take us <a name="Page_145" id="Page_145"></a>back to Nassau, +and if we had remained dodging about, waiting for the light-vessel to be +replaced, we should have been worse off for fuel, of which we had so +little that if we had been chased on our way back we should certainly +have been captured.</p> + +<p>So we started for Nassau, keeping well in shore on the Georgia and +Florida coast. Along this coast there were many small creeks and rivers +where blockade-running in small crafts, and even boats, was constantly +carried on, and where the Northerners had stationed several brigs and +schooners of war, who did the best they could to stop the traffic. Many +an open boat has run over from the northernmost island of the Bahamas +group, a distance of fifty miles, and returned with one or two bales of +cotton, by which her crew were well remunerated.</p> + +<p>We had little to fear from sailing men-of-war, as the weather was calm +and fine, so we steamed a few miles from the shore, all day passing +several of them, just out of range of their guns. One vessel tried the +effect of a long shot, but we could afford to laugh at her.</p> + +<p>The last night we spent at sea was rather nervous work. We had reduced +our coals to about three-quarters of a ton, and had to cross the Gulf +Stream at the narrow part between the Florida coast and the<a name="Page_146" id="Page_146"></a> Bahamas, a +distance of twenty-eight miles, where the force of the current is four +knots an hour. Our coals were soon finished. We cut up the available +spars, oars, &c., burnt a hemp cable (that by the way made a capital +blaze), and just managed to fetch across to the extreme western end of +the group of islands belonging to Great Britain, where we anchored.</p> + +<p>We couldn't have steamed three miles further. On the wild spot where we +anchored there was fortunately a small heap of anthracite coal, that +probably had been part of the cargo of some wreck, of which we took as +much as would carry us to Nassau, and arrived there safely. Thus the +attempt to get into Savannah was a failure. It was tried once afterwards +by a steamer which managed to get well past the fort, but which stuck on +a sand-bank shortly after doing so, and was captured in the morning.</p> + +<p>It is not my intention to inflict on my readers any more anecdotes of my +own doings in the 'D——n;' suffice it to say that I had the good luck +to make six round trips in her, in and out of Wilmington, and that I +gave her over to the chief officer and went home to England with my +spoils. On arriving at Southampton, the first thing I saw in the 'Times' +was a paragraph headed, 'The Capture of the<a name="Page_147" id="Page_147"></a> "D——n."' Poor little +craft! I learned afterwards how she was taken, which I will relate, and +which will show that she died game.</p> + +<p>The officer to whom I gave over charge was as fine a specimen of a +seaman as well can be imagined, plucky, cool, and determined, and by the +way he was a bit of a medico, as well as a sailor; for by his beneficial +treatment of his patients we had very few complaints of sickness on +board. As our small dispensary was close to my cabin, I used to hear the +conversation that took place between C—— and his patients. I will +repeat one.</p> + +<p><i>C.</i> 'Well, my man, what's the matter with you?'</p> + +<p><i>Patient.</i> 'Please, sir, I've got pains all over me.'</p> + +<p><i>C.</i> 'Oh, all over you, are they; that's bad.'</p> + +<p>Then, during the pause, it was evident something was being mixed up, and +I could hear C—— say: 'Here, take this, and come again in the +evening.' (Exit patient.) Then C. said to himself: 'I don't think he'll +come again; he has got two drops of the croton. Skulking rascal, pains +all over him, eh!' I never heard the voice of that patient again; in +fact, after a short time we had no cases of sickness on board. C—— +explained to me that the only medicine <a name="Page_148" id="Page_148"></a>he served out, as he called it, +was <i>croton oil</i>; and that none of the crew came twice for treatment.</p> + +<p>Never having run through the blockade as the commander of a vessel +(though he was with me all the time and had as much to do with our luck +as I had), he was naturally very anxious to get safely through. There +can be no doubt that the vessel had lost much of her speed, for she had +been very hardly pushed on several occasions. This told sadly against +her, as the result will show. On the third afternoon after leaving +Nassau she was in a good position for attempting the run when night came +on. She was moving stealthily about waiting for the evening, when +suddenly, on the weather, which had been hitherto thick and hazy, +clearing up, she saw a cruiser unpleasantly near to her, which bore down +under steam and sail, and it soon became probable that the poor little +'D——n's' twin screws would not save her this time, well and often as +they had done so before.</p> + +<p>The cruiser, a large full-rigged corvette, was coming up hand over hand, +carrying a strong breeze, and the days of the 'D——n' seemed numbered, +when C—— tried a ruse worthy of any of the heroes of naval history.</p> + +<p>The wind, as I said, was very fresh, with a good <a name="Page_149" id="Page_149"></a>deal of sea running. +On came the cruiser till the 'D——n' was almost under her bows, and +shortened sail in fine style. The moment the men were in the rigging, +going aloft to furl the sails, C—— put his plan into execution. He +turned his craft head to wind, and steamed deliberately past the +corvette at not fifty yards' distance. She, with great way on, went +nearly a quarter of a mile before she could turn.</p> + +<p>I have it from good authority that the order was not given to the +marines on the man-of-war's poop to fire at the plucky little craft who +had so fairly out-manœuvred the cruiser, for out-manœuvred she was to +all intents and purposes. The two or three guns that had been cast loose +during the chase had been partially secured, and left so while the men +had gone aloft to furl the sails, so that not a shot was fired as she +went past. Shortly after she had done so, however, the cruiser opened +fire with her bow guns, but with the sea that was running it could do no +harm, being without any top weights. The 'D——n' easily dropped the +corvette with her heavy spars astern, and was soon far ahead; so much so +that when night came on the cruiser was shut out of sight in the +darkness.</p> + +<p>After this the 'D——n' deserved to escape, but it <a name="Page_150" id="Page_150"></a>was otherwise fated. +The next morning when day broke she was within three miles of one of the +new fast vessels, which had come out on her trial trip, flying light, +alas! She had an opportunity of trying her speed advantageously to +herself. She snapped up the poor 'D——n' in no time, and took her into +the nearest port. I may mention that the 'D——n' and her captain were +well known and much sought after by the American cruisers. The first +remark that the officer made on coming aboard her was: 'Well, Captain +Roberts, so we have caught you at last!' and he seemed much disappointed +when he was told that the captain they so particularly wanted went home +in the last mail. The corvette which had chased and been cheated by the +'D——n' the day before was lying in the port into which she was taken. +Her captain, when he saw the prize, said: 'I must go on board and shake +hands with the gallant fellow who commands that vessel!' and he did so, +warmly complimenting C—— on the courage he had shown, thus proving +that he could appreciate pluck, and that American naval men did not look +down on blockade-running as a grievous sin, hard work as it gave them in +trying to put a stop to it. They were sometimes a little severe on men +who, after having been fairly caught in a chase at sea, wantonly +de<a name="Page_151" id="Page_151"></a>stroyed their compasses, chronometers, &c., rather than let them fall +into the hands of the cruiser's officers. I must say that I was always +prepared, had I been caught, to have made the best of things, to have +given the officers who came to take possession all that they had fairly +gained by luck having declared on their side, and to have had a farewell +glass of champagne with the new tenant at the late owner's expense. The +treatment received by persons captured engaged in running the blockade +differed very materially. If a <i>bonâ fide</i> American man-of-war of the +old school made the capture, they were always treated with kindness by +their captors. But there were among the officers of vessels picked up +hurriedly and employed by the Government a very rough lot, who rejoiced +in making their prisoners as uncomfortable as possible. They seemed to +have only one good quality, and this was that there were among them many +good freemasons, and frequently a prisoner found the advantage of having +been initiated into the brotherhood.</p> + +<p>The 'D——n's' crew fell into very good hands, and till they arrived at +New York were comfortable enough; but the short time they spent in +prison there, while the vessel was undergoing the mockery of a trial in +the Admiralty Court, was far from <a name="Page_152" id="Page_152"></a>pleasant. However, it did not last +very long—not more than ten days; and as soon as they were free most of +them went back to Nassau or Bermuda ready for more work. C—— came to +England and told me all his troubles. Poor fellow! I am afraid his +services were not half appreciated as they ought to have been, for +success, in blockade-running as in everything else, is a virtue, whereas +bad luck, even though accompanied with the pluck of a hero, is always +more or less a crime not to be forgiven.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153"></a></p> +<h3><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV.</h3> + +<h4>RICHMOND DURING THE SIEGE.</h4> + + +<p>After the excitement of the last six or eight months I could not long +rest in England, satisfied with the newspaper accounts of the goings on +in the blockade-running world. So I got the command of a new and very +fast paddle-wheel vessel, and went out again. The American Government +had determined to do everything in its power to stop blockade-running, +and had lately increased the force of blockaders on the southern coast +by some very fast vessels built at New York. Being aware of this, some +of the first shipbuilders in England and Scotland were put, by persons +engaged in blockade-running, on their mettle, to try and build steamers +to beat them, and latterly it became almost a question of speed, +especially in the daylight adventures, between blockaders and +blockade-runners.</p> + +<p>Some of the vessels on this side of the water <a name="Page_154" id="Page_154"></a>were constructed +regardless of any good quality but speed, consequently their scantling +was light, and their seagoing qualities very inferior. Many of them came +to grief; two or three swamped at sea; others, after being out a few +days, struggled back into Queenstown, the lamest of lame ducks; while +some got out as far as Nassau quite unfit for any further work.</p> + +<p>My vessel was one of the four built by R—— and G—— of Glasgow, and +was just strong enough to stand the heavy cross sea in the Gulf Stream. +She was wonderfully fast, and, taking her all in all, was a success. On +one occasion I had a fair race in the open day with one of the best of +the new vessels that the American Government had sent out to beat +creation wherever she could meet it, and I fairly ran away from her.</p> + +<p>On arriving at Wilmington in my new vessel I started to have a look at +Richmond, which city was then besieged on its southern and eastern sides +by General Grant, who, however, was held in check by Lee at Petersburg, +a small town situated in an important position about eighteen miles from +the capital. To get to Richmond was not easily accomplished without +making a long <i>détour</i> into the interior (for which we had no time), for +the outposts <a name="Page_155" id="Page_155"></a>of the contending armies disputed possession of the last +forty miles of the railroad between Wilmington and Petersburg, the +latter town being on the line to Richmond. As telegraphic communication +was stopped, it was a difficult matter to ascertain, day by day, whether +a train could pass safely.</p> + +<p>We had in our party the young General Custos Lee, a nephew of the +Confederate commander-in-chief, on his way to his uncle's headquarters, +who kindly offered his assistance in getting us through. When we arrived +at a station some forty miles from Richmond we found, as we feared would +be the case, our further progress by rail impracticable, but we got hold +of a couple of waggons drawn by mules, into which we managed to stow +ourselves and baggage the latter, by the way, being of considerable +importance, as it contained several cases of drinkables, not to be +obtained for love or money where we were going to. We travelled through +all sorts of by-lanes, bumped almost to pieces for four miles, steering +in the direction of the headquarters of the cavalry outposts, which were +commanded by a celebrated raiding officer, also a nephew of the +commander-in-chief. At last we found ourselves in a beautiful green +valley surrounded by thick woods, where the general and his staff were +quartered. He had with <a name="Page_156" id="Page_156"></a>him two or three thousand cavalry, who, in spite +of their bad clothing and somewhat hungry appearance, were as +fine-looking a body of men as one would wish to see.</p> + +<p>The general and his staff gave us a hearty welcome. Poor fellows, it was +all they had to offer! We on our part produced sundry cases of sardines, +Bologna sausages, and other tempting condiments wherewith to make a +feast.</p> + +<p>The drink we mixed in two horse buckets cleaned up for the occasion; a +dozen or so of claret, a couple of bottles of brandy, and half a dozen +of soda water, the whole cooled with two or three lumps of ice (of which +article, as if in mockery, the Southerners had heaps). All these good +things were duly appreciated, not only by our new friends, who for +months past had tasted nothing but coarse rye-bread and pork washed down +with water, but also by well-shaken travellers like ourselves. Lying on +the grass in that lovely spot, it seemed as if the war and all its +horrors were for the moment forgotten. There were several Englishmen +among the officers composing the staff, who had (they said) come out +here to see active service, which they unquestionably had found to their +hearts' content. They seemed the sort of men who would do credit to +their country. I often <a name="Page_157" id="Page_157"></a>wonder what has become of them; in one of them I +was particularly interested. He said his name was Cavendish, but it may +have been a <i>nom de guerre</i>.</p> + +<p>While we were in the camp a picket came in, whose officer reported +having had a skirmish with the enemy, in which the Northerners had been +whipped. The way the cavalry outposts engaged with each other was +curious enough. The ground they met on did not admit of cavalry charges +being made, as thick underwood covered the country for miles round. So, +when they were inclined for a brush, they dismounted, tied their horses +to trees, and skirmished in very open lines, every man picking out his +special enemy. When they had had enough of it, they picked up their +killed and wounded, and, mounting their horses, rode away.</p> + +<p>After passing four or five hours with our cavalry friends we bade them +good-bye, and started (still accompanied by our valuable companion, the +young general) on our way to the headquarters of the army, where we were +to pass the night. It was well for us that we travelled in such good +company, for having to pass all along the outskirts of the Southern +army, we were constantly stopped and interrogated by patrols and +pickets. Besides which we were sometimes disagreeably near to the +outposts of the 'boys <a name="Page_158" id="Page_158"></a>in blue,' as Grant's men were called. Having +arrived very late in the evening at our destination, we bivouacked under +the trees close to the headquarters of the general commanding, who was +away at the front, and not expected back till the next evening. The +rattle of musketry and the boom of heavy guns all through the night +reminded us of our vicinity to the theatre of war, and somewhat +disturbed our rest. But if we were a little nervous, we took care not to +show it. In the morning we started in our waggons, and, after travelling +a few miles across the country, came to the railway that connected the +camp with Richmond. A train shortly afterwards picked us up and landed +us at the capital of Virginia, where we took up our quarters at a +comfortable-looking hotel. There was more to drink and eat here than at +Charleston, consequently people had cheerful countenances. Liquor was, +however, dear, brandy being sold at twenty-five shillings per bottle, it +having to be run through the blockade. Here we found that the people had +that wonderful blind confidence in the Southern cause which had mainly +supported them through all difficulties.</p> + +<p>At this moment, though a line of earthworks hurriedly thrown up in a few +hours at Petersburg was nearly all that kept Grant's well-organised army +from <a name="Page_159" id="Page_159"></a>entering the capital; though the necessaries of war, and even of +life, were growing alarmingly short; though the soldiers were badly fed, +and only half-clothed or protected from the inclemency of the weather +(one blanket being all that was allowed to three men), still every one +seemed satisfied that the South would somehow or other gain the day, and +become an independent nation.</p> + +<p>While in Richmond I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of the +talented correspondent of the 'Times,' who, although in a position to +look on calmly at passing events, was so carried away by his admiration +of the wonderful pluck shown by the Southerners, and by the general +enthusiasm of the people among whom he lived, that he allowed himself to +be buoyed up with the hope that something would eventually turn up in +their favour, and in his letters never seemed to despair. Had he done +otherwise he would have stood alone, so he swam with the tide; whereas +all of us, especially those who were mere lookers-on, should have seen +the end coming months before we were obliged to open our eyes to the +fact that it was come. Through his acquaintance with the big-wigs, we +managed to get a few of them to accept an invitation to a feed, as we +could offer luxuries such as could not be found in Richmond.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160"></a>Some of the first men in the Confederacy honoured us with their +company, and made themselves uncommonly agreeable, seeming quite a jolly +set of fellows. I fear that they have nearly all come to grief since +then, except Mr. Benjamin, the Minister of Foreign Affairs, who before +his death, which occurred several years after the time that I write, +made himself a name in England worthy of his high talents and education.</p> + +<p>I had the honour, while in Richmond, of being invited to a tea party by +Mrs. Davis, the President's wife, which I thought very interesting. The +ladies were all dressed in deep mourning; some (the greater part) for +the sad reason that they had lost near and dear relatives in the +wretched war; the others, I suppose, were in mourning for their +country's misfortunes. Mrs. Davis moved about the room saying something +civil to every one, while the President, though a stern-looking man who +never smiled, tried to make himself agreeable to his guests, and gave +one the idea of a thorough gentleman. I saw there military officers who +had lately come from the front, surrounded by groups of people anxious +for news; delegates from distant seceding States; messengers from Hood's +army, about which many were beginning to be anxious; sympathising +<a name="Page_161" id="Page_161"></a>foreigners, government officials, and many others. The whole of the +conversation naturally related to the prospects of the cause, and no one +would have guessed from what he heard in President Davis's house that +the end was so near.</p> + +<p>I was anxious before my return to see something of the army that had so +long defended Richmond. So I only remained a few days at the capital, +after which I left it and its, alas! too confiding inhabitants, and made +my way as best I could to the headquarters of the commander-in-chief. +There I presented my letters of introduction to General Lee.</p> + +<p>It would perhaps be impertinence on my part to attempt to eulogise the +character of this excellent man and good soldier, who, most thoroughly +believing in the justice of the Southern cause, had sacrificed +everything he possessed in its behalf, and had thrown all his energy and +talent into the scale in its favour. Many who knew him well have done +and will continue to do justice to his patriotism and self-denial. I had +a very long conversation with him, which I wish I could repeat without +being guilty of a breach of confidence, as evidence of the sensible +notions he had formed of the state of affairs in the South. He was the +only man I met during my travels who took a somewhat gloomy view of the +military prospects of <a name="Page_162" id="Page_162"></a>the country—of which, as a soldier, there could +be no better judge.</p> + +<p>After spending twenty-four hours in the camp, we went to the railway +station to see if we could get places for Wilmington. We found that the +line was in the hands of the Southerners, and that although the 'boys in +blue' had a vulgar habit of firing into the carriages as they passed, +the trains were running each night. But a train running and a +non-combatant passenger getting a place in a carriage were widely +different things, every available seat being taken up by sick and +wounded soldiers. I made a frantic effort to get into the train somehow, +and after a severe struggle succeeded in scrambling into a sort of +horse-box and sat me down on a long deal box, which seemed rather a +comfortable place to sleep on. It was pitch dark when I got into the +train, and we were obliged to keep in the dark until we had run the +gauntlet of the Northern pickets, who favoured us with a volley or two +at a long range from the hills overlooking the railway. When we were +clear of them I lighted a match, and to my horror found that I was +comfortably lounging on a coffin. I wished I had not thrown a light on +the subject, but by degrees, becoming accustomed I suppose to my +position, I sank into a comfortable sleep and was really <a name="Page_163" id="Page_163"></a>quite sorry +when, on arriving at some station just before daylight, people came to +remove my peculiar though far from uncomfortable couch. I felt its loss +the more, for in its place they put a poor fellow wounded nearly to +death, whose moans and cries were, beyond anything, distressing. We were +a long time getting to Wilmington, as it was necessary to stop and +repair most of the bridges on the line before the train could venture +over them, an operation at which all passengers sound in wind and limb +had to assist.</p> + +<p>On arriving there we found all the world in a state of great excitement, +on account of there having been a terrible fire among the cotton lying +on the quays ready for embarkation, supposed to have been the work of an +incendiary.</p> + +<p>The recollections of my last proceedings in the blockade-running are far +from pleasant, and I shall pass them over as briefly as possible.</p> + +<p>When we had only the American Government cruisers to fear, we enjoyed +the excitement in the same way as a man enjoys fox-hunting (only, by the +way, we were the fox instead of the huntsmen), but when dire disease, in +the worst form that Yellow Jack could take, stalked in amongst us, and +reduced our numbers almost hourly, things became too serious to be +pleasant.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164"></a>However, before the fever showed itself we made one successful round +trip in the new vessel (in and out) in capital form, having some +exciting chases and little adventures, all very similar to what I have +described before, the vessel doing credit to her designers on all +occasions. We landed one thousand one hundred and forty bales of cotton +at Bermuda, and it was after we had started from Wilmington on our +second trip that the horrid yellow fever broke out among us. I believe +that every precaution was taken by the Government of the island to +prevent the disease from spreading, but increased by the drunkenness, +dissipation, and dirty habits of the crews of the blockade-runners, and +the wretchedly bad drainage of the town of St. George, it had lately +broken out with great violence, and had spread like wildfire, both on +the shore and among the shipping. It must have been brought on board our +ship by some of the men, who had been spending much time on shore; we +had not been twenty-four hours at sea before the fever had got deadly +hold on our crew.</p> + +<p>We went to Halifax, where we landed our sick and inhaled some purer air; +but it was of no avail. The fever was in the vessel and we could not +shake it off. The poor fellows as soon as we were out at sea again began +to drop off. I never can forget an <a name="Page_165" id="Page_165"></a>incident of that voyage, which, as +it could only have happened during blockade-running times, I will +mention, melancholy though it was. Two men died in the middle watch one +night, when we were in very dangerous waters. Their bodies were wrapped +in rough shrouds, ready to be committed to the deep when daylight broke, +as we dared not show a light whereby to read the Funeral Service. I +never waited so anxiously or thought the dawn so long in coming. I was +waiting with my Prayer-book in my hands straining my eyes to make out +the service; the men with their hats off, standing by the bodies, ready +to ease them down into the sea. Our minds I fear wandered towards the +danger that existed (almost to a certainty) of a cruiser making us out +by the same light that enabled us to perform our sad office. However, as +soon as there was light enough, the service was read without any +indecent hurry, and fortunately nothing was in sight to disturb us for +several hours afterwards.</p> + +<p>It was miserable work. That morning about seven o'clock a man came up +from the engine-room, and while trying to say something to me fell down +in a fit, and was dead in half an hour. There was quite a panic among us +all, and as if to make things worse to the superstitious sailors, +whenever we <a name="Page_166" id="Page_166"></a>stopped several horrid sharks immediately showed themselves +swimming round the vessel. The men lost all heart, and would I think +have been thankful to have been captured, as a means of escape from what +they believed to be a doomed vessel. Taking into consideration that if +we got into Wilmington we should, with this dreadful disease on board, +have been put into almost interminable quarantine (for the inhabitants +of Wilmington having been decimated before by yellow fever, which was +introduced by blockade-runners, had instituted the most severe sanitary +laws), I determined to go back to Halifax.</p> + +<p>On arriving there I was taken very ill with yellow fever, and on my +recovery made up my mind to give up blockade-running for ever and all. +The game indeed was fast drawing to a close. Its decline was caused in +the first by the impolitic behaviour of the people at Wilmington, who, +professedly acting under orders from the Confederate Government at +Richmond, pressed the blockade-runners into their service to carry out +cotton on Government account, in such an arbitrary manner that the +profit to their owners, who had been put to an enormous expense and risk +in sending vessels in, was so much reduced that the ventures hardly +paid. And when at last Fort Fisher was taken, and thus <a name="Page_167" id="Page_167"></a>all +blockade-running entirely put an end to, the enterprise had lost much of +its charm; for, unromantic as it may seem, much of that charm consisted +in money-making.</p> + +<p>However, I will mention one or two instances to show what the love of +enterprise will lead men to do, and with these I will close my +narration.</p> + +<p>On the first night of the attack on Fort Fisher, which it may be +remembered was a failure entirely through bad management, though its +little garrison fought like lions, a blockade-runner unaware of what was +going on, finding that the blockading squadron was very near inshore and +hearing a great deal of firing, kept creeping nearer to the fort, till +she was near enough to make out what they were doing. Judging rightly +that they would never suspect that any attempt would be made to run the +blockade at such a time, she joined a detachment of gun-boats and went +deliberately in as one of them. When they, being repulsed, had steamed +away, our friend remained at anchor under the fort, much to the +astonishment of the garrison. It would have been rather awkward if the +fort had been taken, but in such times no one looks very far ahead.</p> + +<p>Another vessel went out from Wilmington the same night, and was +unmolested. But fortune does <a name="Page_168" id="Page_168"></a>not always favour the brave. Fort Fisher +was at last taken <i>unbeknownst</i>, as the sailors say, to the +blockade-runners at Nassau or Bermuda, at which places the blindest +confidence was still felt in everything connected with the fortunes of +the South, and where to whisper an opinion that any mishap might happen +to Wilmington was positively dangerous. The crafty Northerners placed +the lights for going over the bar as usual. The blockade-runners came +cautiously on, and congratulating themselves at seeing no cruisers ran +gaily into the port. The usual feasting and rejoicings were about to +commence when a boat full of armed men came alongside, and astonished +them by telling them that they were in the lion's mouth. This happened +to four or five vessels before the news had reached the islands. It was +hard lines, no doubt, but quite fair play. It was the blockaders' turn +to laugh now.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169"></a></p> +<h3><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI.</h3> + +<h4>THE LAND BLOCKADE.</h4> + + +<p>I have now come to the end of my blockade-running yarns. I have +endeavoured to avoid giving offence to anyone: to the American officers +and men who manned the cruisers I can, as a nautical man, truly and +honestly give the credit of having most zealously performed their hard +and wearisome duty. It was not their fault that I did not visit New York +at the Government's expense; but the old story that 'blockades, to be +legal, must be efficient,' is a tale for bygone days. So long as +batteries at the entrance of the port blockaded keep ships at a +respectable distance, the blockade will be broken.</p> + +<p>A practical suggestion that my experience during the time I was a +witness of the war in America would lead me to make is, that, both for +the purposes of war and of blockade, speed is the most important object +to attain. Towards the end of that contest, blockade-<a name="Page_170" id="Page_170"></a>running became +much more difficult, in fact, was very nearly put a stop to, not by the +ports becoming more effectually closed to traffic, but by the sea being +literally covered with very fast vessels, who picked up many +blockade-runners at sea during the daytime, especially when they had +their heavy cargoes of cotton on board. The Americans are also perfectly +alive to the fact that, for purposes of war, speed is all important. An +American officer of rank once remarked to me: 'Give me a fifteen-knot +wooden vessel armed with four heavy guns of long range, and I'll laugh +at your lumbering iron-clads.' Perhaps he had prize-money in view when +he said so; or, what is still more important, he may have felt how +easily such vessels as those he proposed would sweep the seas of foreign +privateers. In these views I can but think he was right and far-seeing. +Time will show.</p> + +<p>It may have struck my readers as strange that, in a country with so +large an inland boundary, the necessaries of life and munitions of war +could not have been introduced into the Southern States by their +extensive frontiers: but it is only a just tribute to the wonderful +energy shown by the Northern Americans during the civil war, to state +that the blockade by land was as rigid as that enforced by their fleets; +and almost as much risk was run by <a name="Page_171" id="Page_171"></a>persons who broke the land blockade +as by those who evaded the vigilance of the cruisers at sea. The courses +of the large inland rivers were protected by gun-boats, and on account +of the rapids and other impediments, such as snags, with which they were +filled, the fords or passes for boats were few and far between, and thus +easily guarded; besides which, it was always a difficult matter to avoid +the pickets belonging to either party, who were very apt to suspect a +man they found creeping about without any ostensible object, and anyone +suspected of being a spy in those days had a short shrift and a long +rope applied before he knew where he was. More from a spirit of +enterprise than from any other reason, I determined to see what the land +blockade was like, and while at Richmond, happening to meet another +adventurous individual also so inclined, we commenced our plan of +campaign.</p> + +<p>First of all (by the way, I ought to mention that we were both nautical +parties) we engaged a pilot, thereby meaning a man who had a canoe or +two stowed away in different parts of the woods, and who was well +acquainted with the passes on the river. Our amiable friend, the +correspondent of the 'Times.' showed so much confidence in our success +that he entrusted to our care a packet of despatches, which <a name="Page_172" id="Page_172"></a>were +intended, if we got through successfully, to delight the eyes of the +readers of the 'Thunderer' some weeks afterwards.</p> + +<p>We had to buy a horse and buggy, as naturally enough no one would let +them out on hire for such an enterprise; besides, those were not days +when men let out anything on hire that they could not keep in sight. +However, we sent a man on before us, in company with the pilot, to a +station some miles from the frontier, whose business it was to bring the +trap back when we had done with it. We stowed in our haversacks a pair +of dry stockings, a good stock of tobacco, and a couple of bottles of +brandy, against the road; we also had passes to produce in the event of +questions being asked by the patrols on the Southern side of the +frontier.</p> + +<p>All being ready, we started, leaving Richmond at four o'clock in the +morning. We travelled on a long, dreary, dusty road all day, stopping +about noon for two hours at a free nigger's hut, where we got some yams +and milk, and about sunset arrived at the station above mentioned, at +which we were to dismiss our conveyance; and right glad we were to get +rid of it, for we were bumped to death by its dreadful oscillations.</p> + +<p>At this station our pilot was waiting for us.<a name="Page_173" id="Page_173"></a> There were also +bivouacking here a picket of cavalry, who told us they had seen some of +the enemy's patrols that morning, scouring about on the opposite bank of +the river just where we proposed to land. Somehow or other, people +always seem to take a pleasure in telling you disagreeable things at a +time when you rather want encouragement than fear instilled into you. We +had some supper, consisting of eggs and bacon; and at nine o'clock, it +being then pitch dark, the pilot informed us it was time to start. I +must say I should have been more comfortable if I had been on the bridge +of my little craft, just starting over the bar at Wilmington, with the +probability of a broadside from a gun-boat saluting us in a very short +time, than where I was. But it would never do to think of going back, so +we crawled into the wood.</p> + +<p>Our land pilot informed us that the bank of the river, from whence we +should find a clear passage across, was about two miles distant. I never +remember seeing or feeling anything to be compared with the darkness of +that pine wood, but our guide seemed to have the eyes of a basilisk. We +formed Indian file, our guide leading, and crept along as best we could. +At last, after stealthily progressing for half an hour, a glimmer of +starlight through the trees <a name="Page_174" id="Page_174"></a>showed us that we were getting to the +borders of the wood.</p> + +<p>A few minutes afterwards we were desired to lie down. Feeling helpless +as babes, we passively obeyed, and watched our guide as he moved about +like a spectre in the long grass on the banks of the Potomac, looking +for his canoe. At last he returned and whispered that the boat was all +right, and we all crept like serpents to where it was concealed. Nothing +could be heard but the wind blowing through the trees, and the +discordant noises of frogs and other denizens of the swamp. So dark was +the night that we could hardly see fifty yards across the river. I +suppose this was all in our favour; but how our guide knew the marks by +which to steer was a puzzle to me, and as I never meant to profit by +this experience I asked no questions.</p> + +<p>Not a word was spoken as we (myself and my friend) launched the canoe +silently into the water and seated ourselves, or rather obeyed orders +and lay down, the pilot sitting in the stern, with his face towards the +bows of the boat, having a light paddle in his hand, which he worked +wonderfully well and silently. The distance across the river was about +three miles.</p> + +<p>We shot ahead at a rapid pace for about five <a name="Page_175" id="Page_175"></a>minutes, when suddenly, +bump went the canoe against something. To lie flat down was to our guide +the work of a second, and the canoe was at once transformed into a +floating log.</p> + +<p>Well it was so, for it seems we had struck a small boat that was +fastened astern of the gun-boat guarding the river. That the noise of +the collision had been heard on board was evident, for a sentry hailed, +'Boat ahoy!' and fired his musket, and one of those detestable bright +lights which the American men-of-war have a nasty habit of showing +flashed over the water, making everything visible for a hundred yards +round. The current of the river, however, was very strong, and I fancy +we had drifted out of the radius covered by the light, as we were +fortunately not discovered; or perhaps the diligent watchman on board +the man-of-war thought some huge crocodile or other monster had come in +contact with their boat. Be that as it may, we were safe, and twenty +minutes more paddling brought us to land on the opposite bank of the +river; but unfortunately our little adventure had thrown us out of our +line, or as we sailors should have called it, out of our course. We +hauled the canoe out of the water, and hid her in the long grass. All we +could see around us was a dismal swamp, with the dark <a name="Page_176" id="Page_176"></a>wood in the +background. Our guide honestly told us that having been thrown out of +his 'reckoning' in regard to our position, to move from where we were +before daybreak would be madness, so we took a pull at the brandy +bottle, lighted our pipes and waited patiently, having moved well in +under cover of the long grass, so as to be out of sight of any vessel +lying in the river near to us.</p> + +<p>When the day dawned, our pilot after having reconnoitred told us that we +were very well placed for starting for Washington; but that it would be +impossible, on account of the patrols that were constantly watching the +river's banks, for us to move during the daytime, so we were doomed to +remain all day in the damp grass. Luckily we had put in our pockets at +last night's supper some black bread and an onion or two; so we made the +best of things, and so did the sandflies. How they did pitch into us, +especially into me! I suppose the good living I had been accustomed to +on board the blockade-runner, or my natural disposition to good +condition, made me taste sweet. Several times during that fearful day I +was tempted to rush out from my hiding-place, and defying patrols, +gun-boat's crew, and all authorities, make my escape from that place of +torture.</p> + +<p>Anyone who has experienced the necessity of <a name="Page_177" id="Page_177"></a>remaining quiet under such +an infliction as an attack of millions of sandflies on a hot sunny day +will appreciate my feelings. About one o'clock we got as a diversion +from our tormentors a great fright. A boat's crew of a gun-boat lying +about a mile distant from our retreat landed, and out of sheer idleness +set fire to the grass about a hundred yards from where we were lying +concealed.</p> + +<p>We heard the crackling of the grass and thought of leaving our +concealment at the risk of discovery; but our guide wisely remarked that +the wind was the wrong way to bring the fire towards our hiding-place, +so we felt safe. The feeling of security was more pleasant, because we +distinctly heard the men belonging to the gun-boat conversing with +others, who clearly were patrols on the river's bank.</p> + +<p>The evening at last closed in, and as soon as it was quite dark we moved +on, and after struggling through a thick wood for half an hour, got on +the high road to Washington. We travelled by night, meeting occasional +patrols, whom we dodged by either lying down or getting behind trees +till they had passed.</p> + +<p>We concealed ourselves carefully during the day, and on the third +morning before daylight we were within half a mile of the city. As we +got near the <a name="Page_178" id="Page_178"></a>bridge close outside Washington, we tried our best to look +like the rest of the people who were going on their ordinary business; +and though somewhat severely scrutinised by the guard we managed to pass +muster, and got safely into Washington, footsore, hungry, and regularly +done up.</p> + +<p>We went to a small inn that had been recommended to us when we were in +Richmond, where probably they had some Southern proclivities. No +questions were asked as to where we came from, though, I take it, the +people of the house had a shrewd guess. We found ourselves among friends +and perfectly safe from meddling inquiries.</p> + +<p>Thus the land blockade was run. I do not think much experience was +gained by this particularly unpleasant exploit, which after all there +was no very great difficulty in performing, and I certainly prefer my +own element.</p> + +<p>After a short stay we made our way easily to New York, not feeling any +anxiety from the fact of our being staunch Southerners in our opinions, +inasmuch as there were numbers of sympathising friends wherever we went, +more perhaps than the authorities were aware of. I stayed a few days in +New York to recruit my strength after the fatigue of the journey, and +saw all the sights and enjoyed all the pleasures <a name="Page_179" id="Page_179"></a>of the most delightful +city in the world, except perhaps Paris and London. I shall not attempt +to give my readers any description of New York. This has already been +done by abler pens than mine.</p> + +<p>While in New York I was greatly struck with the calm confidence of the +bulk of the Northerners in the ultimate success of their arms against +the South. If I gained nothing else by running the land blockade, I at +least got an insight into the enormous resources possessed by the North, +and a knowledge of the unflinching determination with which the Federals +were prepared to carry on the struggle to the end. I must confess that I +left New York with my confidence that the Confederates would achieve +their independence very much shaken.</p> + +<p>Not being desirous of going through the risk and inconvenience of +running the land blockade again, I returned to Nassau by steamer from +New York.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180"></a></p> +<h3><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII.</h3> + +<h4>I ENTER THE TURKISH NAVY.</h4> + + +<p>After superintending, as it were, the adventures just detailed, I found +that there was still a year to pass before my time for service as a +post-captain came on; so I determined on making a Continental tour to +fill up the space. After wandering about in different countries, I more +by accident than design visited Constantinople.</p> + +<p>While there, I called upon that great statesman Fuad Pasha, the Grand +Vizier of the Ottoman Empire, to whom I presented my letters of +introduction. He received me most cordially, and, during our +conversation, mentioned that for some years Turkey had had to deal with +a serious insurrection in the island of Crete, which it was found +difficult to suppress, owing to the assistance from without which the +revolutionary party received from Greece; also on account of the +somewhat doubtful laws existing as to blockade-<a name="Page_181" id="Page_181"></a>running. For, although +Turkish men-of-war were continually on the look-out, vessels mostly +under the Greek flag, carrying warlike stores, provisions, &c., evaded +the watch of the cruisers on one pretext or another, and so managed to +keep a lively communication with the insurrectionary subjects of the +Sultan in Crete. Only one vessel had been captured <i>in flagrante +delicto</i> after a sharp fight, and had been condemned as a lawful prize.</p> + +<p>The Turkish authorities were told that, according to international law, +a blockade-running vessel could not be followed more than ten miles from +the coast, though having been seen breaking the blockade, and that as +soon as a blockade-runner was within four miles of any island not +belonging to Turkey, she could not be touched, &c. &c.; in fact, laws +were <i>fabricated</i> to defend the blockade-running, which fed the +revolution to such an extent that, while it continued, it was hopeless +to attempt to put down the revolt.</p> + +<p>I accidentally hinted to His Highness, Fuad Pasha, that I thought the +blockade-running could be put a stop to without infringing any law, +especially where laws were so elastic. He seemed much struck with my +remark, and asked me to call on him again in a few days. Now I had +merely <a name="Page_182" id="Page_182"></a>mentioned casually what I thought. I had no idea of anything +serious resulting from our interview. I was indeed surprised on my +return to His Highness by his saying: 'I have consulted His Majesty the +Sultan, who desires me to tell you that if you would wish to take +service with the Ottoman Government, arrangements can be made whereby +you can do so, only you must take the risk and responsibility of +offending your own people.'</p> + +<p>I had to consider a little before replying. I bore in mind that there +were some two hundred and fifty post-captains in the English navy +clamouring for employment, and that there were at the moment I speak of +only about forty employed. I remembered that for twenty-four years an +English officer of the same rank as myself had held the post now offered +to me, namely, that of Naval Adviser to the Turkish Government, that the +post was just vacant through the retirement of Sir Adolphus Slade (who +had served honourably for twenty years, and had retired from old age). I +calculated in those days of profound peace there was more probability of +active service in the Eastern world than elsewhere. So I answered: +'Well, your Highness, I am ready if the terms offered me are +satisfactory.'</p> + +<p>I may say they proved most satisfactory; so, to <a name="Page_183" id="Page_183"></a>make a long story +short, I accepted and was booked as a Turkish employé for five years, +always retaining my rank and position as an English naval officer, and +my nationality as a British subject.</p> + +<p>I found afterwards, as regards my position as an English naval officer, +I had somewhat reckoned without my host. It seems that this post was +considered by the English Admiralty as one of their choice gifts, and +many were the applicants for it on Sir A. Slade's retirement, so much so +that their lordships made great capital of this appointment, and were +furious at my action in the matter. They said I had 'cut out' a good old +servant to whom they had intended to give it. They suggested my coming +home at once, &c. &c. I didn't see it in the same light as their +lordships, and I signified my determination to remain where I was; for +which, as will be seen, they paid me off in course of time. Luckily, I +could afford by the arrangement I had made with the Turkish Government +to be in the Admiralty's bad books, and even the frowns of the English +Ambassador did not affect me a bit. I believe they called me +'adventurer,' 'artful dodger,' &c., but it must be remembered that I was +in every way as much entitled to this position as the Admiralty 'pet,' +whoever he may have been.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184"></a>From the day of signing my contract (which has been constantly renewed) +to the time I write, some sixteen years, I never have had cause to +regret the step I took.</p> + +<p>Shortly after my installation as vice-admiral in the Turkish navy, it +was decided that I should be sent to Crete to put a stop to the +blockade-running. 'Set a thief to catch a thief,' as one of my, what may +be called, unfriendly critics has written about me, and the remark was +<i>ben trovato</i> at all events, for I certainly did know something about +blockade-running.</p> + +<p>I accordingly hoisted my flag in a fine fifty-gun wooden frigate, and +arrived at Suda Bay, the principal port of Crete, where six or seven +Turkish men-of-war were stationed, of which I took command. Here I heard +all the naval officers had to say about the blockade, the impunity with +which it was carried on, &c. I found, as I before mentioned, that the +Turkish naval officers' hands were tied by all sorts of imaginary +difficulties. They had most zealously done their duty while trying to +stop the blockade-running. They had shown great pluck and endurance, but +they always feared to break the law and so get the ever-bullied Turkish +Government into trouble. Here I also heard of the triumphant manner in +which the <a name="Page_185" id="Page_185"></a>blockade-runners left the ports of Greece. How the Mayors of +Syra, Poros, and other Greek towns, conducted, with flags flying, bands +playing, and the hurrahs of the entire population, the hitherto +triumphant blockade-running captains and crews to their ships, on the +way to feed the flame of revolt against a nation with whom the Greeks +professed to be on most friendly terms.</p> + +<p>I heard all this, and was moreover told that if the blockade-running was +stopped, the insurgents in Crete would at once lay down their arms for +want of food and warlike stores.</p> + +<p>I determined to stop it at all risks.</p> + +<p>Picking out of my squadron a couple of fast despatch boats and a quick +steaming corvette to accompany my flag-ship, I started on a cruise, and +once out of sight of the harbour of Suda, steamed straight for Syra. Now +this port had been the principal delinquent in fitting out and sending +blockade-runners to Crete; so I thought that by going as it were to the +starting-point, I should be somewhat nearer to my quarry than by waiting +for them in Crete. Circumstances favoured me in the most marvellous +manner. As morning broke the day after I left Suda, I was about eight +miles from Syra harbour, steaming slowly, when I saw what made my <a name="Page_186" id="Page_186"></a>heart +leap into my mouth, viz., a regular blockade-runner exactly of the type +used in the American war, going at full speed for Syra harbour.</p> + +<p>He was <i>outside</i> my little squadron, and must pass within a mile or so +ahead to get to his port.</p> + +<p>A somewhat similar position I have so often seen, in fact, taken part +in, of a craft running for dear life into Charleston or Wilmington, +across the bows of blockading ships just at daylight. I saw that he was +firing up all he knew, and was going at a tremendous speed. I signalled +to my despatch boats to chase, and when my flag-ship was within about a +mile and a half I fired a blank gun to make him show his colours. To +this he replied by firing his long Armstrong gun with such effect that +the shot cut away the stanchion of the bridge on which I was standing. +Now, gallant fellow as he was, in doing this he was wrong; he should +have shown his colours and run (if he knew he wasn't honest) for the +shelter of a neutral flag, but not fired at a man-of-war, who in her +duty as forming part of the police of the seas fires a blank gun asking +for colours from a suspicious vessel. He undoubtedly committed an act of +piracy and gave me a splendid hold on him.</p> + +<p>My despatch boats chased the blockade-runner close to Syra harbour, both +parties keeping up a warm <a name="Page_187" id="Page_187"></a>running fight. When I recalled them, I found +that this vessel was named the 'Enossis.' Her captain was a most +courageous Greek, who thought of nothing but carrying his cargo and +fighting to the last for his ship, evidently ignoring all laws, nor did +he even think that on this occasion someone was acting against him who +knew something of the rules of blockade, and who could have told him +that an armed blockade-runner is a pirate, that is to say, if she uses +her arms against a man-of-war.</p> + +<p>I was so satisfied with what had occurred that I sent off one of my +despatch boats to the Governor of Crete, telling him that he need not +fear the blockade-runners any more, as they (the two others were lying +in Syra harbour) had put themselves in so false a position that at all +events for several weeks I could detain them at Syra. I knew that one +week would suffice to stop the revolt in Crete, as without the +blockade-runners the insurrectionists had positively nothing to eat.</p> + +<p>(I may as well at once observe that I was perfectly justified in saying +this, for within three days, no blockade-runner arriving at the island, +the insurgents laid down their arms and <i>begged for bread</i>. And so ended +the Cretan revolt.)</p> + +<p>Having recalled the vessels I had sent to chase <a name="Page_188" id="Page_188"></a>the 'Enossis' into Syra +harbour, I steamed in the roads off that port, and anchored with three +vessels.</p> + +<p>I then sent to the authorities on shore at Syra, and demanded their +assistance in arresting a vessel that had taken shelter in their port, +which, as I stated in my despatch, had committed an act of piracy on the +high seas, by firing at my flagship when the latter called upon her to +show her colours by firing a blank gun. At the same time I informed the +authorities of Syra that, as the companions of the 'Enossis' were in the +harbour, I should allow none of them to go to sea until the question of +that vessel's illegal action was cleared up. By doing this I took the +wind out of the sails of the authorities of Syra. They of course were +furious, and at once despatched a vessel to Athens for orders. At the +same time they made a semblance of meeting my demand by stating that the +'Enossis' should be tried by international law. They also requested me +to make my protest and to leave Syra, as the populace were in a state of +excitement beyond their power of control. In this request all the +Foreign Consuls joined.</p> + +<p>I positively declined to leave; had I consented I am convinced the +'Enossis' and her companions would have left for Crete as soon as I was +out of sight. In the meantime I sent a despatch boat to Smyrna with +<a name="Page_189" id="Page_189"></a>telegrams for Constantinople asking for assistance, stating my +position. I remained off Syra with two ships, one being a despatch boat, +watching the movements of the three blockade-runners, to whom I notified +that I would sink them if they attempted to leave the port.</p> + +<p>I often wonder they didn't make a rush for it on the first night of my +arrival, when I was almost alone. The Greeks never want pluck. If they +had done so, one vessel out of the three would certainly have escaped, +taken food to the insurgents, and capsized all my calculations.</p> + +<p>It merely corroborated my view of blockade-running peoples, namely, that +they go for gain (some perhaps for love of enterprise); don't fight +unless very hard pressed, and not always then if they are wise; that is +what it should be. It is outrageous that adventurous persons not engaged +in war should become belligerents, as well as carriers of arms and +provisions to an enemy.</p> + +<p>The first night I passed off Syra was one of great anxiety, as I had +promised the Governor of Crete that no blockade-runner should go to the +island.</p> + +<p>In the morning a small steamer arrived from Athens with a Turkish +official on board. He came to me pale as a sheet, and told me that as he +left the<a name="Page_190" id="Page_190"></a> Piræus a Greek frigate was on the point of leaving for Syra, +whose captain, officers, and crew had sworn to bring back Hobart Pasha +dead or alive. Half an hour afterwards I got under weigh, and as I +steamed about in the offing I saw the Greek frigate coming round the +point.</p> + +<p>It was a moment of intense excitement. The tops of the houses at Syra +were covered with people. It looked like the old story of the +'Chesapeake' and 'Shannon,' where the people turned out to see the fine +sport, and the band played, 'Yankee doodle dandy, oh!'</p> + +<p>However, I steamed towards my supposed enemy, went almost alongside of +him, expecting momentarily to receive his broadside, when to my +astonishment and I must say satisfaction he steamed into the anchorage, +and let go three anchors. This didn't look like fighting. I found +afterwards that the Greek frigate had <i>no powder</i> on board. It was a +shame to put her captain in so false a position, as everyone knows what +gallant stuff the Greeks are made of, and swagger is a mistake where +real pluck exists.</p> + +<p>I felt for him very much, as he seemed so sorry for himself.</p> + +<p>A few days after this I was reinforced by six or seven Turkish +ironclads, and in fact commanded the <a name="Page_191" id="Page_191"></a>position in spite of all +remonstrances on the part of foreigners and other declared enemies of +Turkish rule.</p> + +<p>We went through the laughable farce of a trial of the 'Enossis' on board +a vessel lying in port (I dare not land), which of course ended in +nothing.</p> + +<p>The Governor-General of Crete sent all the insurgents in Turkish ships +to me to deal with, and this was the most difficult thing I had to do. +Poor beggars, they were fine though misguided men. After giving them a +good feed, for they were terribly hungry, I distributed them among the +neighbouring Greek islands, and so finished the affair.</p> + +<p>There are those who say that my acts off Syra were illegal, especially +as to stopping the 'Enossis's' companions from leaving the port. All I +can say is, the Greeks <i>en masse</i>, from the Government downwards, had +paid so little regard to international law during three years, as +regards their action in encouraging revolution in the territory of a +friendly country, that a little stretch of the law on my part was quite +justifiable.</p> + +<p>While on the subject of Crete, which is always supposed to be in a +chronic state of revolt, I would say a few words.</p> + +<p>I maintain that the Cretan people, of whom I <a name="Page_192" id="Page_192"></a>know a good deal, <i>do not +want an alliance</i> with Greece, and if the always over-excited ambitious +Greek committees would only keep quiet and give up agitation, the +Cretans would be the happiest community in the Mediterranean.</p> + +<p>While I commanded for more than a year a large squadron of Turkish +ironclads stationed in Crete, I had many opportunities of judging as to +the sentiments of the Cretans.</p> + +<p>I never saw a more orderly, well-disposed people if let alone by +agitators.</p> + +<p>On my return to Constantinople the reception I received from several of +the European Powers was most gratifying.</p> + +<p>I received high honours in the shape of decorations, for having as they +said by my conduct prevented a European war. My own country alone stood +aloof from me. The Admiralty went so far as to tell me that if I did not +immediately return to England, my name would be erased from the list of +naval officers. An officer of high rank, a member of the Board of +Admiralty, wrote to me a semi-official letter, in which he said, 'Unless +you leave the Turkish service, you will be scratched off the list.' +Feeling exceedingly hurt at such treatment, at a moment when I expected +encouragement for having main<a name="Page_193" id="Page_193"></a>tained the honour of my country while +acting as a naval officer should have done, I wrote to him, 'You may +scratch and be d——d.' This letter was, I think, very unfairly quoted +against me some time afterwards in the House of Commons. However, my +name was erased from the list of naval officers, and was not replaced +there for several years. I was well and kindly received by His Majesty +the Sultan, promoted to the rank of full admiral, and settled down to my +work as a Turkish naval officer, head of the staff of the Imperial Navy.</p> + +<p>It becomes a most delicate task to continue sketches of my life during +the latter time that I have been in Turkey, because such anecdotes +strike nearer home, that is to say, become more what may be called +personal as regards my public and private doings. However, I will +endeavour, somewhat briefly perhaps, to do so in a way that may be +interesting to my readers, and offensive to no one.</p> + +<p>It is not difficult to serve such masters as the Turks; they are always +kind and considerate to strangers in their service, and if one avoids +offending them in certain matters on which they are supposed to have +prejudices, and if one while giving advice avoids offensive censure, it +is easy to get on. While serving in Turkey my principal business has +been <a name="Page_194" id="Page_194"></a>relating to naval matters, regarding which I have had to propose +certain progressive changes such as are being constantly introduced into +foreign navies, more especially the English. These changes proposed by +me have generally been accepted, and I can but think that many +beneficial alterations have been introduced into the Turkish Navy +tending to improve that service.</p> + +<p>His Majesty the Sultan has named me one of his special A.D.C.'s, and in +that capacity I have had at times and still have important duties.</p> + +<p>His Majesty always treats me with the greatest kindness and +consideration, and I have a sincere respect and affection for him, both +as a sovereign, and, if I may presume to say so, as a friend.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195"></a></p> +<h3><a name="CHAPTER_XVIII" id="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a>CHAPTER XVIII.</h3> + +<h4>THE WAR WITH RUSSIA.</h4> + + +<p>In 1877 the war with Russia broke out, and through the absence of any +powerful naval enemy, little in the way of hard fighting was done; still +some very important service was performed by the Turkish fleet, much +more so than is generally known.</p> + +<p>In the first place we had to hold the Black Sea, with its extensive +sea-board. We defended Sulina and Batoum against Russian attack by land, +and by torpedo on the sea. We had to watch the little swift packet-boats +equipped as men-of-war, which constantly made a rush from Sebastopol and +Odessa (as they did, by the way, in the Crimean War, when twenty to +thirty English and French ships were watching them), and when they could +get a chance burnt some unfortunate little coasting craft, sending the +crews of such vessels adrift in small boats to <a name="Page_196" id="Page_196"></a>make the best of their +way to the nearest land. In addition to the above-named services, the +Turkish fleet was called upon constantly to transport large bodies of +troops from port to port.</p> + +<p>On one memorable occasion the Turkish men-of-war and transports conveyed +the whole of Suleiman Pasha's army, consisting of forty thousand men, +from the coast of Albania to Salonica, a distance of some eight hundred +miles, within the short space of twelve days, a feat, I venture to say, +unheard of in the naval annals of this century. Sulina was held safely +by the Turkish fleet until the end of the war.</p> + +<p>Batoum could not have been held by Dervish Pasha and his army had not +the Turkish fleet been there to help him. In short, that fleet kept the +command of the Black Sea during the whole of that disastrous war, +cruising at times in the most fearful weather I have ever experienced, +for twelve months in a sea almost without ports of refuge; and it is a +remarkable fact that the Turks never lost a ship, constantly attacked +though they were, as I shall show hereafter, by the plucky Russian +torpedo boats, who frequently made rushes at them from Muscovite ports, +and only saved from destruction through the precautions taken against +these diabolical machines, which come and go like flashes of lightning. +It is <a name="Page_197" id="Page_197"></a>true that <i>in the Danube</i> two small Turkish vessels of war were +destroyed by torpedoes, but it must be borne in mind the Danube was +under <i>military</i> law, and that the look-out kept on board these vessels +was not by any means what it should have been.</p> + +<p>But I must repeat, as so many contrary reports have been spread, that no +Turkish ironclad was injured by torpedoes in the Black Sea.</p> + +<p>I will explain hereafter how many attacks were made with no result +whatever. Some few days before the war broke out I was sent to examine +the Danube from a professional point of view, and it was soon made clear +to me that much could be done, in the way of defending that great +estuary, had nautical experience and the splendid material of which the +Turkish sailor is made of been properly utilised. But alas! I found +that, contrary to the views of His Majesty the Sultan, a line of action +was followed showing that pig-headed obstinacy and the grossest +ignorance prevailed in the councils of those who had supreme command in +that river. I found that my advice and that of competent Turkish +officers, in comparatively subordinate positions like myself, was +entirely ignored, and that few, if any, proper steps were taken to +prevent the enemy's progress into<a name="Page_198" id="Page_198"></a> Roumania, and later on, to his +passing the Danube almost unopposed.</p> + +<p>On the day that war was declared I was at Rustchuk, the headquarters of +the Turkish army. On that occasion I made a final effort, by making +propositions which events have proved would have arrested the advance of +the enemy.</p> + +<p>I was simply told to mind my own business, and ordered to immediately +rejoin my ships, which were at the moment lying at the Sulina mouth of +the Danube.</p> + +<p>It was all very well to tell me to do this; but to do so was apparently +not so easy of execution, for the reason that the Russians had no sooner +declared war than they took possession of the Lower Danube, by planting +fortifications on the hills commanding the river in the neighbourhood of +Galatz and Ibraila, at the same time laying down torpedoes across the +river in great quantities (as regards the latter, it was so reported, +though in my opinion it was no easy matter so quickly to place +torpedoes). I informed the military commanders of this; their answer +was, 'Go, and rejoin your ships <i>viâ</i> Varna, if you will only get out of +this; we don't want your advice.' By this time, however, my professional +pride was wounded, and I determined to do something to show my contempt +for them all.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199"></a>The only thing left for me to do for the moment was a little +blockade-running, so I resolved to bring my ship back past the Russian +barrier in the Lower Danube at all risks, instead of tamely returning by +land. So great was the jealousy against me that I almost think the +Turkish authorities commanding in the Danube would have been pleased if +I had failed, and so come to grief. I had with me a very fast +paddle-steamer called the 'Rethymo'; her captain and crew were what the +Turks always are—brave as lions and obedient as lambs.</p> + +<p>I took on board a river pilot, whom I gave to understand that if he got +me on shore I would blow his brains out. Before starting I sent for my +officers and crew and told them of the perhaps unnecessary dangers we +should run in passing the Russian barrier, and gave to all the option of +leaving or going on. They decided to a man to go on. I arranged my time +so as to pass Ibraila and Galatz during the night. We arrived to within +thirty miles of the former place at about five o'clock in the evening, +when I was met by a Turkish official who was leaving Ibraila on the war +having broken out. He was fearfully excited, and begged of me on his +knees not to go to what he called certain destruction. He told me that +he had seen the Russians laying down <a name="Page_200" id="Page_200"></a>torpedoes that same day, that the +batteries were numerous, and that they were aware of my coming, &c., all +of which I took with a considerably large grain of salt, and left him +lamenting my mad folly, as he called it.</p> + +<p>Now I must be candid. I did not <i>feel</i> the danger. I calculated that to +put down torpedoes in a current such as was in the Danube would be a +matter of time, and probably they would not succeed after all. I had a +plan in my head for passing the batteries, so as to render them +harmless. So in reality I was about to attempt no very impossible feat. +Three hours after dusk we sighted the lights of Ibraila. The current was +running quite five knots an hour; that, added to our speed of fifteen, +made us to be going over the ground at about twenty knots. It was pitch +dark, and I think it would have puzzled the cleverest gunner to have hit +us, though they might have done so by chance. I determined not to give +them that chance, by going so close under the bank that the guns could +hardly be sufficiently depressed to hit us.</p> + +<p>As we approached the batteries to my horror a flash of red flame came +out of the funnel (that fatal danger in blockade-running), on which +several rockets were thrown up from the shore, and a fire was opened <a name="Page_201" id="Page_201"></a>at +where the flame had been seen. Meanwhile we had shot far away from the +place, and closed right under the batteries. I heard the people talking; +every now and then they fired shot and musketry, but I hardly heard the +<i>whiz</i> of the projectiles. My principal anxiety was that we might get on +one of the many banks so common in the Danube, and I had perhaps a +<i>little</i> fear of torpedoes, especially when we passed the mouths of the +little estuaries that run into the Danube; once we just touched the +ground, but thank goodness we quickly got free, and though fired at by +guns and rifles, went on unhurt. It took us exactly an hour and forty +minutes to pass dangerous waters, and the early summer morning was +breaking as we cleared all danger. I could not resist turning round and +firing a random shot at the banks studded with Russian tents, <i>now that +I was able to breathe freely again</i>.</p> + +<p>I must say that my pilot, whom I at first suspected of being a traitor +in Russian pay, behaved splendidly.</p> + +<p>He told me he had never passed such a night of fear and anxiety: what +with my cocked pistol at his head and the constant fear of putting the +vessel on a bank, he certainly had had a bad time. However, I rewarded +him well. On arrival at Toultcha, a small town near the mouth of the +Danube, still held by the<a name="Page_202" id="Page_202"></a> Turks, I found telegrams from headquarters at +Rustchuk (the place I had left), inquiring if Hobart Pasha had passed +Ibraila and Galatz, and ordering that if he had done so he was +immediately to leave the Danube.</p> + +<p>I cannot express my annoyance, as even at that moment I could have +brought a couple of small iron-clads that were lying at Sulina into the +river and played 'old Harry' with the Russian army, then advancing into +Roumania, <i>viâ</i> Galatz. The bridge near Galatz could certainly have been +destroyed. It was hard on the gallant Turks, hard on the Sultan and his +government, and hard on me, to see such magnificent chances thrown away. +From that moment I trembled for the result of the war. I felt that, +although the Turks had a splendid army, and a fleet even for a +first-class European Power to be proud of, the obstinacy and stupidity +of the commanders of the Danube were sure to cause disaster.</p> + +<p>Unhappily my prognostications came true. In war the first blow is half +the battle, and it was sad to see such glorious troops out-manœuvred at +the very outset. His Majesty the Sultan in his wisdom has justly +punished by banishment and disgrace these men who, instead of covering +the Turkish nation with glory through the deeds of its army, were the +<a name="Page_203" id="Page_203"></a>cause of the defeat of the finest troops in the world. That the +Russians might and would have been beaten, had the means in the hands of +those commanding the Turkish army being properly utilised, is as clear +as day. However, it is not my business to comment on such matters.</p> + +<p>I now return to my own element, and will endeavour to describe some of +the occurrences of the war in the Black Sea. The Russians had three +lines of action in those waters. First, to capture Sulina, and to +destroy the squadron lying at anchor in its roadstead; second, to +capture Batoum and its much-envied harbour; third, the somewhat +undignified action of sending out fast vessels, mostly mail-boats, armed +with a couple of guns, their object being to destroy the Turkish +coasting trade. These vessels were most difficult to catch, as they +always watched their opportunity to slip out of their strongholds when +the Turkish ships were employed carrying troops, or otherwise engaged. +There was, I venture to think, some illegality in this conduct of the +Russian mail-boats.</p> + +<p>These vessels were not regular men-of-war, and they did not take their +prizes into port for adjudication, as is usual in war, always burning +what they could catch and capture. However, during war I <a name="Page_204" id="Page_204"></a>suppose all +must be considered as fair play. While on the subject, I will recount +one or two exploits performed by these enterprising mail-boats. When +lying off Sulina, one of the ironclad corvettes under my command arrived +from Constantinople, where her captain reported having chased a +well-known Russian mail-steamer called the 'Vesta'; that they had +exchanged a few shots, that he had not followed her because his deck was +loaded with guns for the Sulina batteries. I thought no more about it +till about a fortnight afterwards I saw in the 'Times' a paragraph +headed, 'Turkish ironclad driven off and nearly destroyed by the Russian +mail-boat cruiser "Vesta."' This paragraph, which was founded on the +official report of the captain of the 'Vesta,' was most sensational. It +gave a graphic description of how the 'Vesta' had engaged at close +quarters a Turkish ironclad, killing her crew; how officers in European +uniform had been seen directing the working of the ironclad's guns, &c.; +how her sides were crimson with the torrents of blood pouring from her +decks, and how she would have been surely captured had the 'Vesta' been +provided with sufficient ammunition to enable her to continue the bloody +fight. It added that the gallant Russian commander was received with the +greatest enthusiasm on his arriving at Sebastopol, and imme<a name="Page_205" id="Page_205"></a>diately +promoted to high rank and covered with decorations.</p> + +<p>I could hardly believe my eyes when I read this utter nonsense. I know +the Russians; they are brave and loyal fellows, and few indeed are there +among them who have done (to say the least of it) so foolish an act as +to make so unfounded a report.</p> + +<p>However, the commander, whose name I will not mention, did not long wear +his laurels. I suppose he trusted to the Turks saying nothing about it; +but the truth was at last made public. A court-martial was assembled to +try the case, and I believe he was dismissed from the service and +deprived of his decorations. At all events I know for certain that he +was disgraced by his superiors, and held up to ridicule by his brother +officers. Serve him right! Swagger is always an error, and I don't think +naval officers are generally given to it.</p> + +<p>The next exploit of these cruisers I shall refer to was one that came +under my own eyes, and was exceedingly interesting.</p> + +<p>I was anchored with my flag-ship, a fine thirteen knot ironclad, and a +couple of other vessels, at a port some few miles to the north of Varna, +taking in coals, when the look-out man reported that he saw on the +horizon a column of smoke. I knew that this was <a name="Page_206" id="Page_206"></a>not a Russian cruiser, +because these vessels always burnt smokeless coal. I guessed, however, +what it was, namely, that one of the Russian cruisers was burning an +unfortunate coasting vessel. On looking more closely from the mast-head +of the flag-ship, I saw the masts and two funnels of a steamer very near +to the burning ship. The cruiser was somewhat in shore of the place +where I was lying. He seems to have made my squadron out about the same +time I had seen him, and at once made tracks, as the Americans say, to +get out to sea. In doing so he had to near us considerably, so much so +that before steam was ready in the flag-ship I could pretty well discern +what the enemy was. Some persons may be surprised to hear that the +marauding vessel was no less a craft than the magnificent yacht of the +Emperor of All the Russias, called the 'Livadia,' which had condescended +to the somewhat undignified work of capturing small Turkish coasting +craft. Who can fancy the 'Victoria and Albert' being sent to sea, during +a war between England and France, to capture and destroy small coasting +craft on the French shores! However, there was the fact; it was the +'Livadia,' and no mistake. And now commenced one of the most interesting +chases I have ever seen. On our starting the yacht was about four miles +ahead of us, steering a course <a name="Page_207" id="Page_207"></a>that would take her straight to +Sebastopol. She had got through all the necessary dangerous manœuvres of +crossing our bows, from her having been inshore of us, before we moved.</p> + +<p>The weather was lovely, not a ripple on the water, dead calm.</p> + +<p>We commenced the chase at 4.30 p.m. Unfortunately our decks were loaded +with coal; however, we made a clean thirteen knots. At first it seemed +as if we were coming up with the chase, so much so that I felt inclined +to fire the long bow gun at her. But I always think and I say from +blockade-running experience that firing more or less injures a vessel's +speed; so I refrained from doing so. As night closed in a beautiful moon +rose and made everything as clear as day. The equality of our speed was +most remarkable, inasmuch as the distance between us did not vary a +hundred yards in an hour. All night we were watching, measuring +distances with nautical instruments, &c., hoping at moments that we were +nearer, despairing at others that she was gaining from us. We threw +overboard fifty or sixty tons of coal, to no avail; we could not get +within shot of the 'Livadia,' to capture which I would have given all I +possessed. As day broke we saw the crew of the 'Livadia' busily employed +throwing overboard <a name="Page_208" id="Page_208"></a>coal and water. Sebastopol was in sight, and she was +running for dear life to that haven of safety. Lightening her had +certainly a good effect, for it was sadly evident to me that on doing so +she drew ahead a little, but very little. Now I hoped she would burst +her boiler or break down ever so little; but so it was not fated, and +the Emperor's yacht escaped by the skin of her teeth into Sebastopol, +under the protection of batteries that opened a tremendous fire on my +ship on my approaching, forgetful of their existence. I was obliged to +clear out of that pretty sharply or we should have been sunk.</p> + +<p>An ironclad corvette that accompanied me, though some miles astern at +the finish, ran so close in that she had her rudder shot away, and we +had the unpleasant task of towing her out under a fire more like a +hailstorm of shot and shell than anything I can compare it to. I am told +the 'Livadia' would have shown fight. I have no doubt she would; +Russians always fight well: but I think the result would not have been +doubtful, and the Emperor's crockery and glass, to say nothing of the +magnificent gettings-up in the cabins, would have lost much of their +lustre during an engagement. So the glory of taking the Emperor's yacht +into the Bosphorus was not to be mine. I cannot express my +disappointment at losing <a name="Page_209" id="Page_209"></a>such a chance. The only consolation I have is +that I really believe the brave Russians would have blown her up, rather +than allow such a disgrace to fall on their flag.</p> + +<p>Since the war a Russian naval officer told me that he had under his +command at Sebastopol, on the day of my chasing the 'Livadia' into that +port, seven torpedo boats, with which he volunteered to go out and +attack us. His request was not allowed. We discussed at some length the +probable result. These are my views and arguments. I said to him, 'When +I saw your boats coming out I should have steamed away. Now the speed of +my frigate is thirteen knots. You would probably have had a speed of +nineteen to twenty at most. Thus your rate of approaching me would have +been six knots, no great speed with which to approach a vessel armed +with Nordenfelt guns, and six other guns also, <i>en barbette</i>, firing +grape, shell, &c. I am convinced we should have destroyed all the +torpedo boats.' 'Well, then,' said the Russian officer, 'I should have +followed and attacked you during the night.' 'There again,' I said, 'I +think you would have failed, because before dark you could not have got +near enough to me, on account of the opposition you would have met with +from my fire, to remark the course I steered <a name="Page_210" id="Page_210"></a>after sunset, which course +I should have frequently changed during the darkness. A ship cannot be +seen in the dark if she shows no light at more than five hundred yards' +distance, and a moving ship would have been most difficult to hit; +besides which, if I had stopped and put down my defences, what could you +have done?' This discussion ended in the Russian officer admitting that +he did not think he could have done much.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211"></a></p> +<h3><a name="CHAPTER_XIX" id="CHAPTER_XIX"></a>CHAPTER XIX.</h3> + +<h4>THE TURKISH FLEET DURING THE WAR.</h4> + + +<p>To return to the doings of the Turkish fleet in the Black Sea during the +war, Sulina was a point from the beginning always aimed at by the +Russians. In fact, according to my humble ideas, Russia went to war to +get possession of Bessarabia, the key of the Danube, and Batoum, the key +to Asia Minor, and in a great measure to our Indian possessions. I think +the sentimental story of massacres in Bulgaria was merely a blind +whereby to catch the sympathetic support of Europe, and more especially +the English philanthropists. I think this, because when the most awful +cruelties were committed by the Bulgarians on the Turks <i>after</i> the war, +we heard no outcry about massacres. However, I must not introduce +politics into Sketches from a sailor's life; such would be out of place. +Constant attacks were made by land and by sea on Sulina, which was held +and defended by<a name="Page_212" id="Page_212"></a> Turkish ships and their crews, who manned the small +batteries they had planted at the mouth of the river. To the Russians, +to destroy the Turkish squadron lying off that port was of great +importance, as Sulina is entirely surrounded by water and great +impassable marshes, which extend far inland, through which marshes the +Danube runs, and thus can always be defended by ships.</p> + +<p>The Turkish squadron generally consisted of five or six ironclads, and +as the Russians had not ships wherewith to attack these ironclads, +torpedo attacks (of which so much was and is expected) was their only +chance.</p> + +<p>My idea of defending these vessels when at anchor was by a cordon of +guard-boats, with ropes made fast between them, so as to catch any +attacking torpedo boat, either by fouling her screw as she advanced, or +by stopping entirely her progress. Moreover, a torpedo boat thus stopped +would, by catching the rope, draw the guard-boat on either side of her, +or right on top of her. I must admit that while torpedoes at that time +were supposed to be in their infancy, the defence prepared against their +attack was also very much in its infancy, so these preparations were of +the most primitive description.</p> + +<p>The squadron, as I said, consisted of five vessels, <a name="Page_213" id="Page_213"></a>which had been in +the habit of standing out to sea every night, to avoid torpedo attacks. +On the occasion I am writing about, they had returned to the anchorage +on account of bad weather. A Russian steamer with five torpedo boats in +tow started (as we afterwards learnt) from Odessa to hunt for the +Turkish squadron, which, it was known to them through their spies, was +in the habit of cruising off Serpent's Island, about eight miles from +Odessa. The Muscovites were unable to find their enemy, and I don't +wonder at it, for they were not in their usual cruising ground; even had +they been there, to find them would have been difficult, as the Turkish +ships always cruised in open order, burnt smokeless coal, and showed no +lights. On being disappointed in finding what she wanted at sea, the +Russian vessel steamed towards the anchorage off Sulina. As the weather +was bad, her commander decided not to attack, and I fancy had to cast +off his torpedo boats.</p> + +<p>One of these boats, if not more (I have never been able to ascertain +precisely what happened to the five torpedo boats that left Odessa), +made a dash at the Turkish squadron; the weather not permitting him to +use his Whitehead, he decided to try what his pole torpedo would do. As +he approached the head-most vessel, he found (as he explained afterwards +to <a name="Page_214" id="Page_214"></a>me) that <i>something</i> stopped his way, and he saw at the same time +several black objects approaching him. Nothing daunted, he struggled to +get close to the bows of the ironclad; when he got as near as he could +manage he fired his torpedo, without, however, doing any harm to his +enemy. Scarcely had he done this when he found himself in the water and +his boat gone from under him: the real facts being that the black +objects he had seen were the guard-boats, which were closing on him, the +ropes that connected them together having fouled his screw, and caused +the disaster; his boat was capsized and went to the bottom. Four or five +of her crew were drowned, as he would have been, had he not been fished +out of the water by the Turkish guard-boats, and made prisoner.</p> + +<p>The name of this daring naval officer was Putskin. His cool courage was +very amusing. When interrogated, while still in a half-drowned +condition, he exclaimed in excellent English, 'Why the devil didn't I +blow that ship up?' He was asked if he had any idea what stopped him, +and it was suggested to him that something must have fouled his screw. +He answered, 'I don't know what stopped me, but why the devil didn't I +blow the ship up?' I told him that I had a sort of notion he might be +hanged for using such a <a name="Page_215" id="Page_215"></a>fearful weapon. He said, 'No brave man would +hang me; but why,' &c.</p> + +<p>He seemed to have only one idea, and that was he was a fool for having +failed. He was too good a man to let go, so we kept him till nearly the +end of the war.</p> + +<p>Wherever he may be now he is a fine fellow, whose bravery I for one +shan't forget in a hurry.</p> + +<p>A short time after the above-named occurrence the Russians attempted an +attack upon Sulina by land and water, with what object I have never been +able to understand; as, if they had succeeded, they could not have held +it so long as our ships were anchored in the offing. Perhaps their +intention was, by driving us out of the river, to utilise its position +for torpedo attacks.</p> + +<p>I have explained that Sulina was surrounded by sea and vast marshes. +Along the seashore there was a narrow causeway of sand, on which ten men +could march abreast. The only other approaches were by sea and by the +river, the latter, at about ten miles distance, being in the hands of +the Russians. As a defence we had placed on the beach, at about a +gun-shot's distance, several torpedoes, buried in the sand, and +connected by electric wires with the batteries of Sulina. A simultaneous +movement was made by <a name="Page_216" id="Page_216"></a>three or four Russian gun-boats descending the +river, and two regiments of troops accompanied by artillery were sent +along the causeway. Suspecting something in regard to torpedoes, they +drove before them as a sort of advance guard about two hundred and fifty +horses without riders, it being the duty of the poor animals to take the +shock of the explosion should torpedoes be placed on the beach. And so +they did, for, on the horses passing the spot where the torpedoes were +placed, an explosion took place through which several horses were +killed. The rest turned right back, and the causeway being very narrow, +dashed amongst the advancing troops, causing the greatest confusion, so +much so that the whole party had to retreat and we saw them no more.</p> + +<p>It is true that one of the small ironclads had about got the range of +the advancing enemy along the sea-beach, so making their position rather +precarious, but I believe that the real cause of the failure was the +action of the horses.</p> + +<p>In the meantime, the light draft Russian gun-boats came down the river, +and began to fire shell and shot at a long range at the small town and +fortifications of Sulina. This was answered by the temporary batteries +alone, the ships being out of range. Desultory fighting went on for +about twenty-<a name="Page_217" id="Page_217"></a>four hours, when the Russians, finding the hopelessness of +the enterprise, especially now that the troops had retired, gave it up +as a bad job and steamed up the Danube again. This was the only serious +attack made upon Sulina, which Russia could never have taken and held +till she had destroyed the Turkish fleet. After this I went to Batoum, +which place Dervish Pasha was gallantly holding against Russia. He was +sadly in want of naval help, as the Russians had advanced by the +sea-shore to within six miles of that much-coveted port. On arriving +there I took the command of eight Turkish ships of war, besides +transports that were constantly coming and going between Constantinople +and Batoum with provisions, ammunition, &c., for the army and navy. +Here, again, if the Russians could have disposed of the Turkish fleet +they would have easily taken Batoum. By commanding the sea, even with a +couple of vessels, they would have prevented supplies being sent. It +must be remembered there was no way of supporting the soldiers and +sailors except by sea. My first object was to drive the Russians, by the +fire of the ships, more inland. This was easy enough, as of course the +enemy had no guns with them to compare in range with those on board the +ironclads. Some time after my arrival, however, <a name="Page_218" id="Page_218"></a>they brought down two +fifteen centimètre Krupp guns from Ardahan, guns that had a considerably +longer range than our twelve-ton Armstrongs. They gave us some trouble; +however, the position of the attacking camp was changed so as to be out +of range of our guns, a move in every way satisfactory to the Turkish +military commander. This action of our fleet gave great annoyance to the +enemy, and it was determined if possible to make our lying at Batoum a +dangerous if not impossible matter. This was to be done by the so-called +almighty torpedo. I received notice from our secret agent at Sebastopol +that a serious expedition was being organised, that the Turkish ships at +Batoum were to be destroyed or <i>frightened away</i> at any cost. +<i>Frightened away, indeed!</i> To the uninitiated a torpedo is a thing to +frighten any one away. We had heard of magnificent results of torpedo +trials in peace, how ships (I fancy only hulks) had been blown up, +columns of water half a mile high being sent into the air, &c. Nothing, +it was said, could save you. Whatever my ideas, however nervous I may +have felt, I knew that those I was commanding had no fear—they don't +know what it means, the more especially of a not understood possible +casualty, and though more enlightened as to torpedoes and their accepted +effects, I wasn't <a name="Page_219" id="Page_219"></a>to show my people a bad example. When lying in bed in +the middle of the night, having read the warning letter before retiring, +I thought:—'Suppose one of these nasty things goes off and blows the +flagship up at this moment. How pleasant! What cowardly things these +are; no fair fight, up you go, unshriven. I have heard that a man who is +hanged is likely to go to heaven; I wonder if the same chance would be +given to him blown up by a torpedo?' These sort of feelings came over +me. However, said I, 'Let us see if we can prevent their being +realised;' so I went to work to try to do so. As a sportsman I +calculated that to fire at a dark object in the night, especially when +that object had a background of high hills such as we had at Batoum, was +most difficult, so the first order I gave was no lights, not even a +cigarette light; utter darkness under severe penalties. Next, +considering that Batoum is a very small port, with an entrance difficult +to find even in broad daylight, almost impossible in the night without +the lighthouse as a guide, I ordered that the lighthouse should not be +lighted. Then I arranged with the shore authorities that no lights +should be seen in the town; this was more difficult, as there were many +Russian friendlies in Batoum.</p> + +<p>However, the application of somewhat severe <a name="Page_220" id="Page_220"></a>discipline made Batoum like +a city of the dead after dark.</p> + +<p>In addition to these precautions I put a barrier of booms ahead of the +ships lying in the port, placed guard-boats to watch it at the entrance +of the harbour, and having done all this, I bided my time. For some +nights, rather sleepless to me, though to my disgust I heard my officers +snoring all round me, nothing happened (though, as I heard afterwards, a +good deal had been going on outside the harbour), when, at about three +o'clock in the morning of the third or fourth night after I had received +the warning, I heard a row going on in the direction of the guard-boats +and an explosion near to one of the outlying ships. I had hardly time to +think, when something struck the chain of my flagship and seemed to spin +past, like a fish in the water. Then dead silence. I immediately sent +orders to the two fast cruisers, which were lying with steam up, to go +to sea and reconnoitre.</p> + +<p>Suddenly I heard people on shore calling out (I forgot to mention that +ships in Batoum harbour are always lashed to the shore). I sent my +officer to reconnoitre, who found a gaping crowd standing round what +they thought was a large fish lashing his tail, but what in reality was +an unexploded torpedo <a name="Page_221" id="Page_221"></a>with the screw still in motion. On things being +calm I went myself to see what had happened generally during the attack, +and found that a torpedo had struck the bows of one of the ironclads on +the belt, at the waterline at an angle, had exploded, and scarcely left +a mark; that a second torpedo had, after passing through the planks on +the defensive barrier I had placed, <i>diverged from its course</i>, and gone +quietly on shore as far as the left of the squadron; that a third, as I +said, had struck the chain of the flagship and not gone off, but had run +on to the beach. The parts of another torpedo were afterwards picked up, +it evidently having exploded somewhere down below. So we could account +for four torpedoes having been fired at us without effect; probably +there were more. Those that were on the beach were in a very perfect +state, and as soon as we had rendered them harmless, we made prisoners +of war of them. Now I have been since informed of what went on outside +Batoum. It seems that for three nights two fast Russian steamers, +carrying torpedo boats, had been looking for Batoum, and as one of my +informants said, 'We could not find it for love or money.' A couple of +hours before daylight they had steamed off, so as to be out of sight +before break of day. At last they had bribed a man to light a fire in +the hills <a name="Page_222" id="Page_222"></a>behind the town, and so on the fourth night they got +somewhere near it, but they could not make out the ships on account of +the <i>dark land behind</i> them. The time for steaming off having nearly +come, they determined to have a shot at us, so fired five torpedoes into +what they thought the centre of the Turkish fleet, with what result we +have seen. The person who told me was one of them, and said it was +sickening work looking for Batoum. It is true the nights were fearfully +dark, so that the shape of the land could not be made out. He said that +without the traitor's light they could not have found us. I am not +saying by this that one should always trust to darkness; there are many +other ways <i>now</i> of taking the sting out of torpedo attacks. It is +needless to say that the steamers I sent out returned, having seen +nothing. While the fleet was at Batoum, two or three more torpedo +attacks were made on a smaller scale without effect; but I have bored my +readers enough about torpedoes—all I know is that I can sleep now when +in their vicinity. While in the Black Sea I several times went with two +or three ships that could be spared from other duties and reconnoitred +Sebastopol and Odessa, but being fully convinced of the helplessness of +few or even of <i>many</i> ships against the heavy batteries of the <a name="Page_223" id="Page_223"></a>present +day, I did no more than look about me, occasionally exchanging shots +with the enemy. As to burning defenceless towns and villages, I have +always been thoroughly adverse to such things, so I never undertook it. +Some people think war should be made as horrible as possible; in this I +do not agree. I could easily have burnt the Emperor's palace at Yalta, +but did not think it expedient to do so.</p> + +<p>I have already spoken in general terms of the great services rendered by +the ironclads in moving the troops about, but I feel that, in justice to +the gallant crews of the squadron I had the honour to command during the +war, I ought not to bring this portion of my narrative to a close +without mentioning more particularly a piece of work of that nature +executed under my immediate direction.</p> + +<p>The capture of Soukhoum-Kaleh had been followed up by the despatch of an +expedition of some 4,000 men of all arms to a place some thirty miles +down the coast, called Tchamchira. The military commander at Soukhoum +had some idea, I believe, that this force would be able to make its way +inland, and thus encourage risings amongst the tribes against the +detested Muscovite rule. The country, however, was too unfavourable for +the advance of invading troops, being swampy ground with thick bush +where it was <a name="Page_224" id="Page_224"></a>not an impenetrable forest. The Russians also got wind of +the intended movement, and to make a long story short, had managed to +collect a large opposing force. The expedition was landed, but that is +all. Before much could be done to secure the position as a base—whilst +the men in fact were making entrenchments—the Russians, who under cover +of the forest that extended right down to the beach on either side had +been stealthily making their preparations, attacked them on all sides, +and but for the covering fire of the ironclads, fortunately still at +anchor there, would undoubtedly have driven them into the sea.</p> + +<p>The result of this action enabled the force to establish itself in the +village, and hold possession of the small belt of cleared ground around +it, the extreme limit of which was still within the range of the guns of +the ironclads.</p> + +<p>The position of this force, however, daily grew worse. The Russians had +captured the fords, by which their retreat to Soukhoum was cut off. They +were completely surrounded, and only owed their preservation to the +continual presence of an ironclad. Under these circumstances it was +thought advisable to withdraw the men, and Dervish Pasha entrusted me +with the task. To give an idea of the precarious position of this force, +I may mention that, as I <a name="Page_225" id="Page_225"></a>approached the place in my flagship, we heard +the sound of smart cannonading, and I found the guard-ship engaged with +a battery of field-pieces. The Russians had recently received a large +accession of force, and several field-guns of large calibre; and so, not +content with troubling the camp daily with an enfilading fire, had +thought to try conclusions with the heavy guns afloat. On our appearance +the action ceased, the Russians withdrawing their battery into the safe +shelter of the forest. The Russian fire had been well directed, and had +the guns been heavier calibre, considerable damage would have been +inflicted. As it was, the upper works and rigging were cut about a great +deal, and two men killed and four wounded on board the ironclad. After a +conference with the general in command, I proceeded to Soukhoum to make +arrangements for transport. I had hardly arrived there when a message +from Tchamchira arrived, urgently demanding assistance, as the Russians +were advancing in great force. I hurried back with all the vessels I +could collect to Tchamchira, three ironclad corvettes and two wooden +paddle-wheel transports. Fortunately the Russian attack had not +commenced, and the arrival of my squadron probably led to its +postponement until too late. To remove 4,000 men, bag and baggage, <a name="Page_226" id="Page_226"></a>with +several batteries of field-pieces and a large amount of ammunition, was +no easy task with the small amount of transport at my command. I made, +however, what I considered to be the best disposition possible under the +circumstances.</p> + +<p>The corvettes and the paddle transports were moored in as close to the +shore as possible, my intention being to cram them with men and stores +first, leaving my flagship free to the last to manœuvre off the Russian +camp and shell it, should the slightest opposition be offered to the +embarkation. The work commenced at daylight, and was actively carried on +throughout the day and following night, the last batch of men coming off +at dawn. The men were taken away from under the very teeth, as it were, +of the Russians. The ships in shore were well within rifle range, and +the boats passing to and fro were exposed the whole time to a fire from +hidden foes. The enemy had been evidently overawed by my preparations, +and doubtless thought it would be better for them to allow the invading +force to retire unopposed. To avoid the chance of grounding, in case I +should have to use the frigate fire to cover the embarkation, a +volunteer crew had proceeded off the Russian camp during the night, and +laid down a line of buoys, to show the limit of distance to which the +<a name="Page_227" id="Page_227"></a>shore might be approached with safety. These buoys, glistening in the +sunlight, doubtless suggested to the Russians that something dreadful +was in store for them if they attempted to fire a gun, and so they +contented themselves with watching from the trees, amongst the branches +of which we saw a number of them perched like so many birds of prey. The +whole credit of the embarkation is due to the efficient manner in which +the naval officers under my command carried out the instructions given +them, and the great docility of the Turkish soldiers. Soon after sunset +the general and staff left the shore, and their example was followed by +every military officer of any rank; so that the whole work devolved upon +those I had placed in command of the beach and the boats.</p> + +<p>The men marched down quietly by themselves and everything went on like +clockwork. I must confess that I passed a most anxious night, as I knew +not but what at any moment the enemy might make a rush into the +entrenchments the Turks were abandoning, in order to claim a victory. My +own ship was getting lumbered up, and I knew that before long it would +be impossible to work more than one or two of the guns in case of need. +That the Russians, however, could not know this, was my comfort; but I +must own that it was a great relief to me when the <a name="Page_228" id="Page_228"></a>last detachment left +the shore. The poor fellows had been holding the outposts all night. +They came in at the double, and little time was lost over their +embarkation.</p> + +<p>We steamed off at once to Soukhoum, and there disembarked the +expedition. Shortly after this I was called upon to prepare for a +veritable exodus. The evacuation of Soukhoum had been decided upon, but +His Imperial Majesty felt that the poor people, who had been expecting a +permanent deliverance from the Russian yoke, could not be abandoned to +those whose vengeance they had excited. Intimation was therefore given +that all those desirous of leaving the country should be carried to +Turkish territory, and provided with lands to form new settlements. The +whole population pretty well made up its mind to leave, and came +marching into Soukhoum with their flocks and herds, and household goods +and chattels. Suffice it to say that, with the vessels under my command, +I shipped off and landed at Batoum, Trebizonde, Sinope, and other ports +on the Turkish coast something like 50,000 people, counting men, women, +and children, within the space of a fortnight.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229"></a></p> +<h3><a name="CHAPTER_XX" id="CHAPTER_XX"></a>CHAPTER XX.</h3> + +<h4>SPORT IN TURKEY.</h4> + + +<p>I will now endeavour to give my readers some idea of life at +Constantinople. If the resident is a sportsman he can find plenty of +amusement, game of all descriptions being plentiful. I may say that the +shooting begins about September 1, when great flights of quails pass the +environs of Constantinople, from the threatening winter of Russia to the +warmer climate of Egypt, and afford capital amusement. But really to +enjoy the sport it is necessary to go somewhat far, within ten miles of +Constantinople. The fields during the quail season are filled with +so-called sportsmen to such an extent that one has every chance of being +mistaken for a quail, and potted accordingly. I have counted at St. +Stephano, a place about nine miles from Stamboul, celebrated for +<i>treaties</i> and quails, both in due season, more than five hundred +sportsmen accompanied by howling curs <a name="Page_230" id="Page_230"></a>of every description. Such a +sight is worth looking at, but for sport, well—it is better to leave +gun and dogs at home.</p> + +<p>I once ventured out among the motley crowd of quail-shooters; there +happened to be a flight of quails, so the fire kept up very much +resembled a field-day on Southsea Common. I was hit all over with (thank +goodness!) very small shot, and made a rapid retreat to save my skin +from perforation.</p> + +<p>However, going some distance along the coast, away from the enemy, one +may at times get capital sport during the months of September and +October; for example, a single gun may bag a hundred and fifty to two +hundred quails in a day.</p> + +<p>After the quail comes the partridge shooting, which is very good, +especially in the islands of the Turkish archipelago, where there are +great numbers of red-legged partridges affording famous sport.</p> + +<p>To properly enjoy the shooting in Turkey a yacht is necessary, as the +best of it is to be found in the islands and near to the sea-coast, in +places quite inaccessible to roads.</p> + +<p>For example, the islands of Mitros, Lemnos, and Mytelene abound in +partridges, and the shooting there is really capital.</p> + +<p>Either by bringing a yacht from England, or by <a name="Page_231" id="Page_231"></a>hiring one at +Constantinople, the real sportsman may have great amusement while +shooting, with Constantinople as headquarters. He will find in Asia +Minor deer of all descriptions, wild boars and wolves. Then he will have +capital sport with geese, ducks, woodcocks and partridges, and snipe.</p> + +<p>Occasionally he must rough it somewhat while sleeping in villages some +little distance from the sea-coast for a night or two, instead of +retiring on board his floating home, and on this head I would give a +word of advice to the sportsman. Always take up your quarters in a +Turkish village, if possible, in preference to a Greek village. At the +former you will find the traditional hospitality of the Oriental, even +among the very poor people, practised in every sense of the word; whilst +in the latter you will be <i>exploité</i> (there is no English word that +signifies as well what I mean) to the last degree, even to the pilfering +of your cartridges.</p> + +<p>I have seen on arriving at a Turkish village every one vie with the +other, and doing their very utmost to make the sportsman and his party +comfortable. I have seen 'harems,' such as they are, cleaned out and +prepared as a sleeping apartment, all the inmates huddling together in +some little corner. I have remarked one old woman arrive with <a name="Page_232" id="Page_232"></a>a couple +of eggs, another with what was perhaps her pet fowl, to be sacrificed at +the altar of hospitality—in fact, only one idea seemed to animate them, +namely, hospitality, and it is touching to see how they shrink from the +proffered reward made by the sportsman on leaving these kind though poor +and long-suffering people.</p> + +<p>There are different kinds of deer to be found in Asia Minor, which +strangely enough imitate the habits of the inhabitants, Greek, Turk, and +Armenian, by not herding together.</p> + +<p>First, there is the large red deer which generally inhabit the high +mountains and are difficult to get, except when the winter snow drives +them down into the lower grounds. I have been fortunate enough to kill +several of these splendid animals during my sojourn in Turkey. I will +give my readers an account of how I shot two of them. One day during the +winter, when the mountains were covered with snow, I received news that +three deer of the largest description were in a ravine at the foot of a +mountain some six hours' distance from Ismidt. I immediately started off +in pursuit. I must mention that all persons of high rank in Turkey have, +or had at the time I write of, by their shooting firman, the right to +call upon the villagers in the neighbourhood in <a name="Page_233" id="Page_233"></a>which they are shooting +to assist in driving or searching for game. In my case it was not +necessary to take advantage of such an offer; every one was on the alert +for my arrival. The people told me that that very morning they had seen +the noble beasts I was after, grazing outside the wood. So, gathering +the villagers, boys carrying horns, men (much against my will) carrying +guns, accompanied by every available dog, from the grand shepherd's dog +to the yapping cur of the village, off we started.</p> + +<p>The ravine was thickly wooded, and extended far up the mountain, where +it ended in a bare spot without trees. To this place I went alone, +leaving the crowd behind me with directions not to move till I was in my +place, which instruction they most strictly followed. After half an +hour's walk I arrived at the place I have named. I had hardly time to +regain my breath when I heard a row below me as if Bedlam had been let +loose. I loaded my gun with buckshot in one barrel and ball in the +other, and remained as quiet as a mouse. As the noise of the beaters and +dogs approached me, I heard a crash in the bushes within about forty +yards of me, and presently a magnificent stag as big as a cow came +slowly out of the cover, looking behind him, evidently not expecting an +enemy in front. As soon as he <a name="Page_234" id="Page_234"></a>was well clear of the bushes, I fired at +him with buckshot and killed him dead. I hardly had time to think, when, +with a tremendous rush, two other large deer broke out of the wood +straight at me at full gallop. I fired a bullet at the foremost one, +which turned back into the woods apparently wounded, and so it proved, +for it ran among the beaters, evidently having lost its head, and was +soon despatched among dogs, men and guns. He was a stag also, and as I +claimed to have shot him, I may say that I had the luck to shoot a brace +of splendid stags right and left. There is not a sportsman in Europe who +would not have been delighted at such a chance of red deer like these; +such as are not seen anywhere except in Asia Minor. The largest one had +nineteen points to his antlers, weighed when cleaned a hundred and +fifteen okes, equal to three hundred and twenty pounds English measure, +and certainly was the largest stag I have ever met with, either in +Scotland or in Austria. During the sixteen years that I have passed in +the East I have only succeeded in killing four of these splendid +animals. This I attribute very much to the want of proper deerhounds, +which unfortunately I have not been able to procure.</p> + +<p>The crowd of beaters make so much noise that the deer slip away at the +sides of the thick covers <a name="Page_235" id="Page_235"></a>unseen, whereas dogs would drive them more in +a straight line towards the shooters if they are properly posted. In +addition to this, it is always a great advantage when the hounds give +tongue, and so warn the sportsman of the whereabouts of the game. These +hounds, called 'colpoys,' can be procured in Roumania and Hungary. There +is another description of deer found near the sea-coast in some parts of +Asia Minor, which I will describe. It is in fact the pure wild fallow +deer that stocks the parks of Europe, and if I am rightly informed is +only to be found wild in Asia Minor, and even there it is rare.</p> + +<p>I understand that in India or in Africa, where there are hundreds of +different sorts of deer, the real fallow is not to be found. While +shooting at a place called Camaris, near to Gallipoli, two years since, +I discovered several herds of these deer, beautiful creatures, wild as +hawks, and accordingly laid myself out to shoot some of them if +possible. I tried driving, stalking, and every manœuvre to circumvent +them, without success. At last one day I started with my beaters to a +place where there were many tracks of fallow deer. I was posted at a +sort of small mountain pen, having on one side of me a young friend of +mine, and at the other a native<a name="Page_236" id="Page_236"></a> (these fellows won't go out unless they +are allowed to carry their guns).</p> + +<p>Shortly after the beaters had begun to halloo, a fallow hind glided by +between me and my young friend, like a ghost. Not a sound in the wood +gave notice of its approach. It was even quieter in its movements than a +hare would have been. I put up my gun to fire, but seeing my friend's +head right in the way and in a line with its muzzle, I waited a second, +but the deer was gone. I had scarcely got over my disappointment when I +heard the branches breaking in the wood very near to me, and suddenly a +deer sprang right over my head, taking a flying leap, like a hunter +would do over a fence.</p> + +<p>This unusual action on the part of the deer called for unusual action on +my part. As he had taken a flying leap over my head, I took a flying +shot at him a second before he landed on the other side of me. The +result was that he rolled over like a rabbit, shot <i>from underneath</i> +through the heart. This deer proved to be a very fine specimen of the +fallow, every point showing him to be of that species, except his +antlers, which were quite straight. This I cannot account for; the +natives, who had remarked this deer on several occasions feeding with +the herd of fallow deer, called it the 'Cassic Boa,' which means<a name="Page_237" id="Page_237"></a> +'straight-horned.' Some time after this I had some good sport with the +fallow deer. Having got more accustomed to their habits, I found that it +was of no use trying to approach them, their scent being too keen, their +eyesight too sharp; the only way to get them is by very careful, in fact +I may say scientific, driving.</p> + +<p>Good boar shooting may be had by going some little distance from +Constantinople. It usually is done either by beaters or with boarhounds; +but I have had very good sport at boar while hunting for woodcocks and +pheasants, in what may be called covert shooting—not exactly English +covert shooting, in which almost every tree is known by the keepers, but +in coverts of great extent, in which there are almost impassable +thickets, made still more impassable by a well-known bramble called the +'wait a bit,' a thing that hooks on to your eyelids as you pass.</p> + +<p>There it is that in these coverts spaniels, half-English, half +country-bred dogs, do frequently the work of beaters, and it is a +strange fact that while piggy starts at once from his lair at the +approach of the boarhounds, he will not budge an inch for the little +yapping spaniel, whom he treats with contempt.</p> + +<p>I have known many instances when, on hearing a <a name="Page_238" id="Page_238"></a>jolly row in the covert, +I have crawled in on my hands and knees, and found a boar being bayed by +my spaniels—in fact, I have killed more pigs in this way than in any +other. The danger is that you may have your dogs killed by the boar; +this has happened to me on one or two occasions, more especially with +young dogs.</p> + +<p>I had once a cunning old spaniel dog (poor 'Dick,' well known to most +sportsmen out here), who has frequently come out of the wood with his +mouth full of pig's hair, he evidently having torn the hair off the +animal while laying in his lair. (Dick was never hurt by a pig.) I have +often surrounded, with my brother sportsmen and myself, large bushes in +which the piggies were securely hidden, driven them out, and shot them +as one would do hares or rabbits.</p> + +<p>I have heard a good deal of the danger of pig shooting, on account of +the savage propensities of the animal; but I have found that, with very +rare exceptions, the Anatolian wild boar always runs. It is true that +they (she or he, the females are the most savage) have a nasty knack of +giving a sort of jerk with their heads, when fighting or even passing an +enemy, and that jerk means to a man the ripping up of his leg from his +heel to his thigh, to a dog the tearing open of his entrails.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239"></a>On one occasion I was out cock shooting, when some shepherds' dogs in a +valley adjoining that in which I was walking started a large wild boar, +a beast they call a '<i>solitaire</i>,' from the fact that he is always seen +after a certain time of life alone. The animal made for a ridge dividing +the valleys; on getting there he passed along the sky-line, about eighty +yards from where I was. I changed my cartridges and fired a ball at the +pig, who rushed away, apparently unshot; on going to the spot, however, +where he had passed when I fired, I found some drops of blood. This +blood I traced for about half a mile, till I came to a large clump of +bushes into which my spaniels dashed, evidently close to their game. I +heard a tremendous row in the bushes, had hardly time to prepare when +the great beast with his eyes all bloodshot and foaming at the mouth +rushed straight at me. I was on a narrow path, from which there was no +escape, as the boar was tearing up it, followed by the dogs. I fired a +ball straight in his face, at the distance of about two yards, in spite +of which he rushed straight on, knocked me clean over, and while passing +me made the usual dangerously effective jerk I have alluded to above, by +which he cut my <i>boot from the ankle to the thigh</i>, drew a little blood +just above and inside of the knee; after which <a name="Page_240" id="Page_240"></a>the boar rushed headlong +for about thirty yards and dropped dead. I found that my bullet had +smashed through his forehead straight between the eyes and gone into his +brain.</p> + +<p>He was an enormous brute, weighing when cleaned twenty-one stone; +carrying the finest tusks I have seen anywhere as belonging to a wild +boar. I only had one man with me; we were what may be called eight miles +from anywhere. Still I was determined not to leave my prize; so I sent +my man for a country waggon, and sitting down on my now harmless beast, +smoked cigarettes and waited quietly till the vehicle came.</p> + +<p>Now, <i>apropos</i> to wild boar attacking people, I am convinced that this +animal had no intention of attacking me.</p> + +<p>He was, though badly wounded by the first shot, running from the dogs, +and I got in his way. <i>Voilà tout</i>! On only one other occasion I nearly +came to grief while boar shooting. On my arriving at a Turkish village +one night, I was told that there was an enormous boar in the +neighbourhood, who for a long time had been the terror of the country, +inasmuch as he, accompanied by a large party of the pig tribe, had +rooted up the crops all round the village, destroyed gardens, and +tradition even said <a name="Page_241" id="Page_241"></a>had killed children and eaten them (this latter +story I don't take in). However, the poor people prayed me with tears in +their eyes to rid them of their enemy, which I promised to do if +possible. So the next morning off we started in the following order: +first, myself and friends, accompanied by the elders of the village +armed with old-fashioned guns; then the young men with knives and big +sticks, the women and children bringing up the rear as lookers-on. I and +my two friends were escorted into the centre of a large wood, in which +very original <i>seats in trees</i> had been knocked up for us. The object of +these seats was for our personal safety, but I as a sportsman saw at +once that to be up a tree was not only advantageous in that respect, but +also that we should be much more invisible, hidden among the branches of +a tree, than by being stationed on the ground. So we mounted our trees, +and the beaters went into the woods some half a mile from us. I never +heard such a row as they made when they began the drive; they beat +drums, fired guns, rang bells, and it was evident to me that no wild +beast would hold to his lair under such a torrent of abuse. I found the +words they were using were curses on the wild boar. I saw two or three +fallow deer glide past me, with their usual ghostlike silence, and +shortly afterwards the woods <a name="Page_242" id="Page_242"></a>very near me seemed to shake with +something coming. Suddenly some fifteen to twenty wild boar appeared +among the bushes, coming straight towards me. The first of these was an +enormous brute, evidently <i>the</i> boar we wanted.</p> + +<p>I heard shots on either side of me from my friends, but I kept my eye on +the big boar. To my astonishment he came right under the tree where I +was sitting, and stopped to listen.</p> + +<p>He cocked his head on one side, looked all round him, but forgot to look +up the tree he was quite close to, in which was his enemy.</p> + +<p>Taking advantage of this I fired a ball and an S.S.G. cartridge into +him, before he could make up his mind which way to go; he gave a +tremendous grunt and rolled over. I had not time to be overjoyed at my +luck before I found myself rolling on the ground alongside of my victim, +who, not being dead, was by no means a pleasant companion. The fact is +that the seat on which I had been perched, having been very carelessly +put up, had given way, and down I came from a height of about twelve +feet. The branches of the tree had broken my fall, but my gun had fallen +out of my hand and I had sprained my ankle, so that I was in rather an +awkward position. The boar was shot through the spine, and could not +<a name="Page_243" id="Page_243"></a>get along, though he made frantic efforts to get at me.</p> + +<p>It was of no use my calling out for help; everybody was calling out, +everybody was excited, firing at the lots of pigs that were running +about in all directions. At the moment when I began to think affairs +somewhat serious (I tried to get up and walk, but could not do so on +account of my ankle), as the boar was crawling towards me, looking very +mischievous, two great shepherd's dogs arrived on the scene, and went +straight in for my enemy. Poor beast! He made a gallant fight; he could +hardly move, but he could use his head, and he tore one of the dogs open +in a frightful way; then two or three men came up, but they were afraid +to go near to the boar. I made them hand me my gun that was lying on the +ground near me, with which I soon put a stop to the battle. Then all the +people began to muster round their dead enemy, and it was laughable to +see and hear how they abused and kicked the body of the pig. How to get +the carcass away was the next question. We sent for two waggons and four +or five Christians (as the Turks won't touch pig), one to carry me, the +others the boar; so, after being placed in the waggons, we made with +piggy a triumphant return to the village. Luckily the village was on the +<a name="Page_244" id="Page_244"></a>sea-shore, and my yacht was lying close to the land, so I got on board +comfortably; but it was several days before I could walk.</p> + +<p>I believe that that pig was <i>nasty</i>, and would have given me the jerk if +he could have done so. Five other boar were killed on that occasion, one +of my friends killing two; but I had the honour of killing <i>the</i> boar of +the period in that part of the world. While referring to that +neighbourhood, I would mention that it was within five miles of the +place I have been writing about that poor Captain Selby, of H.M.S. +'Rapid,' was killed, some two years since. There are people who think +that he was attacked and murdered by robbers. Such is not the case; his +death was a most unfortunate occurrence brought on by a +misunderstanding.</p> + +<p>It is true that the man who shot poor Selby was an ignorant savage, but +there was no premeditation. It was a word and a blow. The latter, though +inexcusable to the last degree, was given by a ruffian whose class are +in the habit of shooting and stabbing one another (let alone strangers, +whom they detest) at the slightest provocation. They are not natives of +Turkey, but come of strange tribes who live far away and are hired to +guard the sheep in the winter months, returning to their homes in the +summer. I <a name="Page_245" id="Page_245"></a>went myself to the spot where the sad occurrence took place +shortly afterwards, and found the people very penitent and very +frightened. Let us hope that the punishment awarded to the principal +actors in the sad affair will be a salutary warning for the future.</p> + +<p>As brigandage may be considered as in some way connected with sporting, +inasmuch as many refrain from going out shooting when they fear being +robbed and murdered, I will say a few words about brigandage in +Anatolia.</p> + +<p>I have been for seventeen years an ardent lover of sport in Turkey, and +have generally shot in Asia Minor. I have slept in villages that were +supposed to be inhabited by brigands. I have been almost alone among an +armed crowd of beaters, all of whom had the reputation of being robbers, +but I have never been robbed or threatened with robbery. Perhaps there +exists a sort of sympathy between brigands and sportsmen, for I cannot +call to mind any instance of a sportsman being robbed. It is true that +sometimes a fat financier, or rich <i>rentier</i>, who may have called +himself a sportsman, has been carried off and ransom demanded for him, +but a real sportsman never.</p> + +<p>It is true that in some of the villages where dwell the peoples of a +nation I am not supposed to love, <a name="Page_246" id="Page_246"></a>you are liable to and probably will +be <i>exploité</i> to a considerable extent in the way of pilfering +cartridges, &c., but it is their nature to. So, brother sportsmen, when +you come out here take your abode in Turkish villages.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247"></a></p> +<h3><a name="CHAPTER_XXI" id="CHAPTER_XXI"></a>CHAPTER XXI.</h3> + +<h4>SPORT AND SOCIETY.</h4> + + +<p>I have mentioned, in what I have written above relating to sport, the +name of a somewhat celebrated spaniel of mine, whose name was 'Dick.'</p> + +<p>The commencement of this bow-wow's career was as strange as the many +adventures he afterwards went through. When he was quite a young dog, he +once worked with me all day in ice and snow, and at last fell down +lifeless. A heavy snowstorm was raging, and as poor Dick seemed quite +dead, we made him a grave in the snow and covered him up with leaves and +bushes. We accomplished this with difficulty, on account of the blinding +snow and the streams that were much swollen by torrents from the +mountains. Dick's burial-place was about eight miles from where the +vessel was lying. We all got on board that night. I was deeply grieved +at the loss of the dog, who had already shown great promise as a +first-<a name="Page_248" id="Page_248"></a>class sporting dog, a most difficult thing to procure in this +country. What was our astonishment the next morning at daylight to see +Dick on the beach, making piteous howls to draw attention to his +whereabouts. He was warmly welcomed, as may be supposed; he did not seem +a bit the worse for his brief sojourn in the grave, and went out +shooting again the same day as happy as ever. This enthusiastic little +spaniel was always doing strange things; he followed every fox and every +badger into their holes, and we have had, time after time, to dig him +out covered with blood and fearfully mauled, after having passed perhaps +twenty-four hours in the earth.</p> + +<p>Mr. Dick generally hunted alone, occasionally coming near to see that I +was all right. Now this sounds bad for Dick's qualities as a sporting +dog, but such a dog is necessary in a thickly-wooded region such as I +shot in, when one wants to know what is in the country.</p> + +<p>Dick, when he found anything, barked loudly; and this drew attention to +the fact that there was game in that quarter. Sometimes, of course, he +drove the game away; at others he drove it towards me. At all events he +went to places where I never could have gone. On one occasion I heard a +great noise <a name="Page_249" id="Page_249"></a>among some long reeds near a lake were I was duck +shooting—Dick barking, some other animal making a strange noise. This +went on so long that at last I went to see what was the matter. After +much trouble I got into the reeds and approached the noise, which was +momentarily getting worse. On coming close I found an animal about +Dick's size standing on its hind legs and fighting with its fore paws, +Dick covered with blood, fighting hard and watching an opportunity to +close with his enemy. On my approach the animal dropped on to fore paws +and endeavoured to escape, on which Dick jumped on to him, thus making +it very difficult for me to use my gun. However, at last, by watching my +opportunity, I fired a shot which disposed of the fighting powers of the +beast, which turned out to be a very large badger. I never could +understand what he was doing so far away from his place of refuge. Was +he after ducks, or what? The animal was at least a quarter of a mile +away from dry land, being in the middle of a marsh, overgrown with +reeds. Another of Mr. Dick's adventures ended more unfortunately for +him, as I fear he never got over its effects. I again, as on the last +occasion, heard him evidently furiously engaged with something in a +thick wood. After crawling on my hands and knees for some time, I found +Dick and <a name="Page_250" id="Page_250"></a>two other of my spaniels in furious combat with an enormous +wild cat, who when I came up was holding her own against the dogs. The +beast got her back against a tree, and was fighting all three dogs, +keeping them at a respectful distance. My man seized a piece of wood, +more like a little tree than a stick, and made a blow at the cat, which +blow unfortunately came down with great force on Dick's head. The poor +dog lay senseless for some time, and then crawled away, seeming to say, +'I'll have nothing more to do with you.' He never recovered that blow, +and became quite a different dog, dying some months afterwards.</p> + +<p>The feathered game shooting is very good in the neighbourhood of +Constantinople. Pheasants, though rare, may be obtained five or six in a +day. I have killed fifteen to my own gun, and with a party of three we +bagged sixty-six in three days.</p> + +<p>Snipe shooting is also very good. An idea of the bags that may be made +will be seen when I say that at Besika Bay, close to the Dardanelles, I +killed in three days three hundred and three snipe, an average of one +hundred and one a day. When there is snow lying on the hills there are +plenty of cock; myself and two friends having killed in three days two +hundred and ninety-eight long bills.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251"></a>My best bag in cock has been sixty-three in one day's shooting alone. I +have lately taken to punting after ducks, and have been very successful. +One gets twenty to thirty a day, and occasionally a swan. I once killed +four of the latter with one shot from my punt gun (one of Holland & +Holland's). Hares are not very numerous; to get three or four in a day +is counted good luck; but one generally picks up one or two during a +day's shooting. Thus the sum of what you have in this country is red +deer, fallow deer, roe deer, pigs, wolves, and bears (as to the latter, +rare), hares, pheasants, cocks, snipe, quails, and ducks; so that a man +who lays himself out for sport and has a yacht can have plenty of +amusement between September and March.</p> + +<p>The coast of Karamania, taking in all the coast from some distance below +Smyrna, passing Rhodes and so on to the Gulf of Ayas, affords all the +way along capital sport to yachting men. For example, in the large gulfs +of Boudroum and Marmorice, capital anchorage will be found, and a +country almost virgin as far as sport is concerned.</p> + +<p>Some years since, while commanding an English ship-of-war, I had the +good fortune to be sent on a roving commission against pirates that were +supposed to infest that coast. Somehow I always<a name="Page_252" id="Page_252"></a> <i>imagined</i> that pirates +were more or less sportsmen, so I hunted for them in places that looked +gamey, and thus made the acquaintance of many almost unknown, or at all +events unfrequented, harbours and creeks, in which I had famous sport. +On the coast of Karamania the ibex is to be found in considerable +quantities; the red-legged partridge and the francolin are also very +abundant, and give capital sport.</p> + +<p>There are also at the head of the gulf I have alluded to large marshes +for duck and snipe. The most celebrated, because the best known place in +the part I am alluding to, is the Gulf of Ayas, into which runs the +well-known (to all naval sportsmen) river called the Jihoon. A yacht +must anchor at some distance off the entrance of this river, but the +anchorage is quite safe in all weathers. Getting over the bar of the +river is a matter at times of considerable difficulty, but once inside +the bar you are in the paradise of shooting. A small steam launch is +necessary to stem the strong current, and to tow another boat up with +tents, provisions, &c. It is true that in my time we had no steam +launches, and I shall not forget the hard work we had to take two boats +sufficiently far up the river to get well into the shooting grounds, and +even after two days' struggling we did not arrive so far as I should +have wished (we, in fact, only got <a name="Page_253" id="Page_253"></a>four miles up the stream). Still we +had some rare sport, the more especially with pigs and francolin. The +morning after we had pitched our tents some wandering Arabs came to us +and offered to beat the woods, which they declared to be full of wild +boar. They told us that the habit of these animals was, on being driven, +to take to the river and swim to the other side; so we placed our guns +along the banks and told the boat to guard the river from pigs swimming +across, and try to stop them as best they could. The guns available for +the shore work consisted of myself and two friends and my coxswain, who +was armed with a ship's rifle. The Arabs went into the bush on +horseback; the beat had hardly begun when a lot of pigs were started, +all making for the river; three of these were knocked over. As they +approached several others dashed into the river, and a most amusing hunt +was made after them by the sailors. Not being armed with rifles, their +weapons of offence against piggy were revolvers, ropes, and the +stretchers of the boats.</p> + +<p>There was, as may be supposed, great excitement among the men when the +pigs took to the water; they at once went at them, firing revolvers, +pulling after them as they swam, using language not allowed in these +refined days in the navy; and, before we got <a name="Page_254" id="Page_254"></a>to the scene of action +they had lassoed as it were two fine pigs, and tied them to trees on the +river-side, and when we arrived were firing their revolvers at them +apparently with very little effect; however, we soon gave the animals +the <i>coup de grâce</i>. Thus we killed five pigs in our first drive. We +took the liver, alias fry, out of the pigs to eat (it is most +excellent), cut off the heads of the tuskers, and hung the remaining +parts on a tree to wait our return, changing our camp further up the +river the same night. The next morning early I took a stroll into the +woods by myself; while looking about me I saw what I thought was a large +animal sleeping in the bushes. I began accordingly to stalk him. I got +within eighty yards, put my gun up to shoot, but as I could not pitch on +a vital part to aim at, only seeing a mass of what was evidently an +animal rolled up, I went nearer and nearer; in fact, little by little, I +got within ten yards of the quarry; then I fired a ball into what I now +saw was a huge pig. No move! What did it mean? I could not have killed +it sleeping. However, I took courage and went close and put my hand on +the beast; what should it be but an immense boar lying dead in his lair. +He must have died months before I found him, as the skin fell to pieces +on being touched, the hair into powder; his head was a <a name="Page_255" id="Page_255"></a>splendid one, +but I could only save the jawbones, in which were a grand pair of tusks. +The moral of this was that pigs, like everything else, die—sometimes +quietly in their beds, be that retreat only a lair in the forest; but it +is a rare occurrence to find relics of wild animals in so perfect a +state. I fancy their friends and relations generally eat them. The bed +or lair he was lying in was a most snug spot, and he would have been +quite invisible had not some of the brushwood been burnt away, Arab +fashion, a short time before I found him.</p> + +<p>I must warn any sportsman intending to shoot in the Jihoon river that +the wandering Arabs who are to be found there, though not brigands of a +high order, are petty thieves to the last degree. We were always obliged +to keep a watch in our tents, leaving a man behind in charge when we +went on shooting excursions. On one occasion we found on our return that +our watchman had captured an old woman whom he caught in the act of +creeping under the tent and stealing a spoon. I had myself a curious +adventure. An Arab told me that he knew where a boar was lying in the +long grass, and that he would take me to the spot if I would accompany +him. We started off together, and on getting well into the wood we went +on our hands and knees, crawling under the <a name="Page_256" id="Page_256"></a>trees and brushwood, towards +the spot where the boar was supposed to be. We had to keep quite close +together. I carried round my neck a very pretty silver whistle, which I +prized exceedingly. Suddenly, when we were in a very thick part of the +bush, the Arab seized hold of my whistle and held it tight. I +immediately grasped the hand that held the whistle; this I did with my +right hand holding his left. He, with his right hand, tried to draw a +knife. I, with my left, tried to get my gun to bear on him, but there +was so little room to spare on account of the thick bush that both our +operations were difficult of performance. As soon as I saw him trying to +draw a knife, I dropped the hand with the whistle, and seized that with +which he tried to draw the knife. Thus the play went on for two or three +minutes; neither of us spoke, all our energies were directed on our +different games. At last, by turning round a little, I succeeded in +giving him a tremendous kick, which rolled him over on his back; then my +gun was free, and I held it to his head, upon which he took an attitude +of supplication on his knees, and prayed for quarter. I made him give me +his knife, go on all-fours again, and creep before me out of the wood. +This was a most audacious attempt at petty robbery. I should like to +have peppered him a little, <a name="Page_257" id="Page_257"></a>but he was so penitent, I decided to let +him go. I don't think he meant to stab me; I think he merely wanted to +cut the string that held the whistle. These men were not generally +murderers. On this trip we killed twelve pigs, a hundred and seven +francolin, one lynx, and lots of cock and ducks. Coming back to the ship +I, and those with me in my boat, very nearly came to utter grief. There +was a good deal of sea on the bar of the river. The cutter that was with +me got over all safe, but my whale-boat being loaded heavily with pigs, +&c., refused to rise with the waves, and not doing so, the consequences +were that she filled and capsized. We had all to jump and make for the +shore, a distance of nearly a mile, being in the greatest danger while +doing so of getting into the current of the river. Any one who had done +this must have been washed away and drowned; however, thank goodness, +all hands were saved. The whale-boat was afterwards picked up, having +been washed out to sea, but we lost all tents, spare guns, &c.; the pigs +remained in the boat, as they were stowed under the thwarts, and hadn't +room to float out; so, friends, take warning of the bar of the Jihoon +river.</p> + +<p>It was about this time that I received a report from some American +missionaries to the effect that <a name="Page_258" id="Page_258"></a>one of their comrades had been robbed +and murdered by some Arabs who inhabited the mountains near +Alexandretta, people whose evil deeds had for some time past brought +them into notoriety. Although I was under orders to join the +commander-in-chief, I took it upon myself to remain and assist the +Americans in hunting down if possible the murderers of their comrade.</p> + +<p>I confess I was made more zealous in the cause from hearing that there +were 'lots of big game on the hills.' I invited two or three of these +American missionaries to join my mess, and off we went to look for the +murderers. As this is a chapter on shooting, I will as briefly as +possible state what we did in the official way. In the first place we +anchored at the head of the Gulf of Ayas, near a large town where +resided the chief authority of the neighbourhood in which the murder had +been committed. I landed with the missionaries, several of my officers, +and some marines to act as an escort, and paid an official visit to this +gentleman, who was called the caimakam, or chief magistrate. This great +man told us that we should certainly with his assistance find the people +we were after. He suggested that we should accompany him with a small +body of our men, to which he could add some of his zeptiehs: that thus +accompanied <a name="Page_259" id="Page_259"></a>he would go to a place on the hill where we should find +what we wanted. He said that a little 'backsheesh' was necessary. This +latter we found, and the next day we started.</p> + +<p>We ascended amongst the most magnificent wooded hills I ever saw. 'Such +places for game!' thought I, till at last we halted at a clump of +splendid oak trees. Under one of these a grand luncheon was spread, of +which we were all invited to partake. During the luncheon a man rushed +up to our host and whispered in his ear something which seemed to give +him great satisfaction, for he at once smilingly said, 'Captain, I have +found the men you are after;' and sure enough we saw approaching two +ruffianly looking fellows, tied together, and being dragged along by men +on horseback. I hope they were the right men. I will presume that they +were, but they had been very quick in catching them. After my missionary +friend who spoke their language had interrogated the prisoners, he +requested that they might be kept apart, which was done, and they were +given in charge of separate sentinels, to whose horses they were tied. +We then returned to our lunch, our pipes, and our coffee. Suddenly we +heard a pistol shot, a rush, and a scream from the neighbourhood of the +prisoners. It seems that one of them had drawn <a name="Page_260" id="Page_260"></a>the pistol from his +guardian's belt, shot him dead, jumped on to the horse, and galloped +off. Everybody, marines and all, tried to follow. Such a row never was +heard; but the man knew the country, and we saw him no more. I was +rather glad, for he must have been a plucky fellow.</p> + +<p>The other prisoner was doubly secured and taken down to the village. He +was afterwards hanged, so justice was satisfied and my work finished. I +got a letter of thanks from the President of the United States, of which +I was and am still very proud, and meant to have used had +blockade-running brought me to grief.</p> + +<p>This business being satisfactorily concluded, I asked my friend the +caimakam if there was any big game to be had. His answer was, 'Chok au +Va,' which meant there was plenty: and he undertook to beat the +neighbouring woods that very day with his men. We were told that there +were plenty of roe deer, foxes, jackals, &c., so we loaded our guns with +S.S.G. cartridges (which means, I may tell it to the uninitiated, +buck-shot). We were stationed on the outskirts of a splendid oak wood +that looked like holding any mortal thing in the way of game. Soon as +the beaters set to work cocks began to fly about in all directions, but +we had an instinct that something <a name="Page_261" id="Page_261"></a>more important would turn up, so took +no notice of feathered game. I was watching close, trying to look +through almost impenetrable brushwood, when I heard a rustling sort of +noise near me, and suddenly I caught sight of something which almost +made my hair stand on end—a great tiger leopard, creeping, stealthily +as a cat, out of the wood, within twenty yards of where I was standing. +Fortunately he did not look my way. What was I to do? My gun, as I said, +was loaded with buck-shot; a miss or a wound would have been sure to +bring the brute on top of me. However, I did not hesitate more than a +couple of seconds; I pointed my gun at his heart just behind the +shoulder, and pulled the trigger. The whole charge went straight where I +pointed it, and the tiger rolled over on his back. I put a ball into my +gun and approached him very gingerly. When I got close to him I found he +hadn't a kick in him. His claws were crunched up as if grasping +something, his grand eyes were growing dim, and though, to make all +sure, I fired a ball into his head, it was not necessary, as I found +nine buckshot in the heart. He was a splendid beast, eleven feet from +tip of tail to end of nose. It was said that he had killed a shepherd +some days before, so he deserved his fate.</p> + +<p>Before returning to the ship that evening, we <a name="Page_262" id="Page_262"></a>arranged that the Arabs +should turn out the next day to drive the covers on the beach near the +ship, which were supposed to hold deer and pigs. I must mention that +these Arabs are very different to the wandering tribes we had lately +been amongst; they are warlike, unscrupulous, and dishonest. We made an +arrangement with them that <i>all</i> game killed should belong to us, the +beaters being paid in gunpowder, which they prized very much. The Arabs +thought we should only find pig, and as Mussulmen won't touch it, the +bargain was considered satisfactory to both parties.</p> + +<p>It so happened that at the first drive a very fine deer, of a species I +had never seen before, broke cover. I had the luck to shoot him, and as +the ship was lying very near, we hailed her for a boat in which to send +off our game. I saw a good deal of whispering among the Arabs, who, +after some discussion, informed us through one of the missionaries, who +kindly acted as interpreter, that the deer must belong to them, as they +only promised to give the pigs, and they openly declared we should not +take it on board. I wasn't going to stand this, for many reasons. In the +first place it was necessary to show these people that we were their +masters; secondly, by our agreement the deer was ours. When the <a name="Page_263" id="Page_263"></a>boat (a +cutter with ten men unarmed) had come on shore, I gave orders for the +men to return and bring their arms and ten marines, also armed. The +Arabs, of whom there were about one hundred armed to the teeth, seemed +firm in their decision; so was I. When I pointed to my armed men, who +were by this time landing, they pointed with the same significant +gestures to their armed men. At this critical moment, my first +lieutenant, seeing that something was wrong, fired a shell right over +our heads to intimidate the Arabs, and the result showed that it had +that effect. The deer was lying on the beach. I ordered the marines to +form a cordon round him, and the sailors to bring up the boat stretchers +on which to lay the animal. When all was ready I gave the command to +carry it away and put it in the boat. The Arabs cocked their muskets and +made a move forward; the marines turned and faced them. I thought we +were in for a fight; however, the bearers carried off their charge and +placed it in the boat, when to my astonishment the Arab chief put down +his musket and came and made his salaam to me, asking if he might be +allowed to visit the ship. I, of course, was delighted. We took him and +several of his friends on board, and the visit ended in their all +getting roaring drunk, being hoisted over the ship's side and landed on +the beach.<a name="Page_264" id="Page_264"></a> So passed off what might have been a serious affair. I might +have become involved in a long explanation to show that I was right in +protecting my game by armed force, but under all the circumstances I +feel that I was fully justified in doing so.</p> + +<p>I should like before finishing these sketches to say something about the +society of Constantinople. As one cannot always be out shooting, it is +very important to our happiness to have something to fall back upon in +the social way. I was told once by a very great friend of mine, who saw +that I was inclined to fret, 'to take everything as a joke.' If one's +liver is in good order it is very easy to do so, but sometimes the +contrary is the case, and it makes one at times quite savage to see the +airs that are temporarily put on by those that form the so-called upper +or diplomatic society of Pera. Here are really amiable people so utterly +spoilt by the exalted idea of their own dignity that they become +absolute bores, especially to any one accustomed to good society. If you +go to a soirée you see grouped together, for fear of contamination with +the outsiders (without which a successful party cannot be formed), the +members of the so-called 'sacred circle,' talking to each other in +dignified (or undignified, as the case may be judged) whispers. While +all are <a name="Page_265" id="Page_265"></a>cheerful and gay, you scarcely see a smile on the countenances +of these tremendous swells.</p> + +<p>If you go in the street you will meet a creature dressed in most +gorgeous apparel, armed to the teeth with firearms that probably won't +go off, knives and daggers covered with precious stones, walking +solemnly along. If you look carefully among the crowd in his wake you +will discover some one, or ones, walking with an indignant swagger at +being hustled by the vulgar crowd. The man in gold, armed to the teeth, +is what is called a <i>cavass</i>, and these swells behind are the +representatives, male or female, of some foreign potentate, taking a +walk. It would be quite <i>infra dig.</i> to go without one of these useless +appendages. Again, if an individual not belonging to the 'sacred circle' +meets a foreign representative who condescends to speak to him, and +while he is doing so another member of an embassy 'heaves in sight,' the +first swell will immediately sheer off, looking ashamed at having so far +forgotten himself as to be seen speaking to any one outside 'his +circle.' You may occasionally be invited to the houses of these exalted +personages, but there is always an implied condescension in their +attitude which tends to negative the effect of their good intentions. +And all this is a great pity, because <a name="Page_266" id="Page_266"></a>these people must be tired of +each other, and would find quite as much intelligence outside as inside +their circle. Besides, there are charming people among them who would +ornament any society, but their ill-acted airs of 'brief authority' +quite spoil them, and make them, as I said, bores to themselves and to +those who would be their friends.</p> + +<p>I will, in proof of what I say, relate a short anecdote as to what +occurred in the house of a friend of mine.</p> + +<p>This friend gave a very large fancy dress ball, at which two or three +hundred people were present. The ball was in every way a success, but as +the giver did not belong to the 'sacred circle,' the members of that +body only condescended to go for a short time. I have no doubt (for +there are lots of jolly people among them) that they would have liked to +have stopped much longer, but it was not thought 'dignified.' So, after +a short time, most of the 'sacred circle' sneaked away. One of them who +had two charming daughters, devoted to dancing, not having noticed the +departure of the great people till that moment, came hurriedly to my +friend and said, 'Goodnight, I <i>must go</i>, every one is gone.' 'Every +one?' said my friend, 'why, look at the rooms, there are at least two +hundred people dancing and amusing them<a name="Page_267" id="Page_267"></a>selves.' 'Yes, I see,' said the +diplomat (he was rather a small one), 'but I mean the ambassadors and +their parties, are gone, so I <i>must</i> go; but for once, to please you, +I'll leave my daughters.' I believe my friend answered, 'You may go to +the d——l.' This is a fact, and shows the unfortunate system that ruins +to a great extent the sociability of society in Pera.</p> + +<p>Now it is true that all these people are called barons, counts, +viscounts, &c., but my friend belongs to a right good family, and would +have been more than the equal of many of them had they met in Paris, +London, St. Petersburg, Berlin, or Vienna. The title of baron, &c., +seems to me to be always given to a diplomat <i>ex-officio</i>. However, +barons or no barons, the rule of exclusiveness laid down by the 'sacred +circle' at Constantinople is to be deplored as it injures society sadly. +Few large parties are given now except those got up by the great people. +When an outsider sends out invitations for a ball, or any other kind of +<i>réunion</i>, the negotiations that go on between the swells as to whether +they should patronise it or not are comical in the extreme. Should ever +so slight an omission in the form of these invitations, or a mere +accident in the delivery thereof, appear to them to touch their dignity, +they will <a name="Page_268" id="Page_268"></a>probably all absent themselves in a body, even were it +question of the marriage or the funeral of one of their oldest and most +respectable acquaintances. Not being one of them, and not caring very +much for artificial society, I look on with great amusement. Some one +gave great offence on a late occasion, while describing society in Pera, +by suggesting that if there were a European court here things would be +very different; so they might. People would then find their level, as +they do in other capitals.</p> + +<p>I feel very sorry for the members of the 'sacred circle.' Not only do +they lose much now, but it will be awkward for them when they go back +from whence they came. A short time ago I asked a very high and mighty +personage if she did not fear the change that must come when she left +Constantinople. She answered with great frankness: 'I feel that most of +what you say is correct, but before I came here I was very small fry; +now I know I am a swell, and mean to enjoy myself.' She was like those +reckless ones who cried: 'Let us eat and drink, for to-morrow we die.' I +have seen a stand made by one or two of these mighty ones, an attempt to +break down the system of pompous exclusiveness, but that attempt +unfortunately failed.</p> + +<p>I must say that the foreign colonies in Pera are <a name="Page_269" id="Page_269"></a>much to blame, for +they worship with all their minds and all their strength their different +chiefs and chieftainesses, and human nature being weak, &c. &c.</p> + +<p>Apart from the 'sacred circle' there is a nice little society where +people go in for enjoying themselves, and succeed in doing so very +comfortably; but even there, with some few exceptions, there is that +secret longing for one or two of the swells—even a junior secretary of +an embassy is looked upon as a desideratum.</p> + +<p>The Greeks keep very much to themselves; so do the Armenians. The Turks +are exceedingly fond of going into society, but their domestic +arrangements tend to prevent their entertaining.</p> + +<p>His Majesty the Sultan frequently invites European ladies to his dinner +parties, and those who have had that honour must have thoroughly enjoyed +the delicious music and the pleasant entertainments after dinner at the +Palace of Yildiz. I don't see why His Imperial Majesty's example is not +followed by some of his subjects; perhaps we may yet come to that +by-and-by.</p> + +<p>In what I have said about society in Pera I have not meant to be +personal or offensive in any way. My object has been to show up a rotten +system <a name="Page_270" id="Page_270"></a>whereby everybody suffers. I have some remote hope that things +may change for the better, especially as one of the chief promoters of +the system has now left Constantinople.</p> + +<p>If I bring these pages to a somewhat abrupt conclusion, it is because I +have had the bad luck to get a chill out shooting, and have been +somewhat seriously ill. However, I have hope that there is 'life in the +old dog yet,' and that I may before long have some other adventures of a +similar description to add to these 'unvarnished sketches' of my life.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271"></a></p> +<h3><a name="EXTRACT_FROM_THE_DAILY_TELEGRAPH" id="EXTRACT_FROM_THE_DAILY_TELEGRAPH"></a><i>EXTRACT FROM THE 'DAILY TELEGRAPH,'</i></h3> + +<h4><i>June 21, 1886.</i></h4> + + +<p>'There will be some slight and melancholy satisfaction to his sorrowing +family, and his many friends, in the knowledge of the fact that Hobart +Pasha, a short time before his death, had prepared for publication a +memoir of his stirring life and adventures. The only fault, if fault +there be, in this record, may lie in the circumstance that its readers +may think it too brief. At all events, we shall be told what Hobart had +been about ever since the year 1836. It is certain that he never was +idle. Even before he had passed his examination for lieutenant, he had +distinguished himself while serving in the squadron told off to suppress +the slave trade in Brazilian waters: and in those days our naval +operations against the Portuguese traders in "blackbirds" involved +considerable peril to life and limb.</p> + +<p>'Eighteen years, however, elapsed before Captain Augustus Hobart was +able to shot his guns in view of the broadside of a European foe. He had +previously enjoyed two years' half-holiday at home; that is to say, he +had been appointed, as a reward for his services in South America, to a +lieutenancy on board the Royal yacht, the Victoria and Albert, then +commanded by the late Adolphus Fitz-Clarence. But in the historically +momen<a name="Page_272" id="Page_272"></a>tous year 1854 there was serious business to be done by +Lieutenant—now Commander—Hobart. A diplomatic squabble between France +and Russia about the Holy Places in Palestine developed into an angry +quarrel between the Emperor Nicholas, France, and England. We went to +war with Russia. A magnificent squadron of British first-rates was +despatched to the Black Sea with the avowed object of destroying the +Russian Fleet, which had characteristically annihilated the Turkish +Fleet in the harbour of Sinope. We did not do much in the Black Sea +beyond running the Tiger on shore, where her crew were captured by the +Muscovites. We bombarded Odessa perfunctorily, and precisely in that +portion of the city where our shot and shell could do the least harm. We +did not destroy the Russian Fleet, for the sufficing reason that the +Russian Commander-in-Chief sank all his three-deckers full fathom five +in the harbour of Sebastopol.</p> + +<p>'In the Baltic, however, there was a little more fighting to show for +the many millions sterling wrung from the British taxpayer. To the +coasts of Finland was sent a splendid Armada, commanded by one of the +bravest seamen that ever adorned the glorious muster-roll of the Royal +Navy of England, Admiral Sir Charles Napier. Under his orders was +Captain Augustus Hobart, in command of Her Majesty's ship Driver. "Lads, +sharpen your cutlasses!" thus began the memorable manifesto addressed by +the hero of St. Jean d'Acre to the gallant tars. The Baltic fleet was to +do wonders. The lads, with their cutlasses very well sharpened, went +aboard the Russian war-ships before Cronstadt, stormed the seven forts +which guard the entrance to that harbour, and sailed up the Neva even to +St. Petersburg itself. It <a name="Page_273" id="Page_273"></a>is true that ere the war was over a spy +informed Lord Augustus Loftus, then Her Majesty's Ambassador at Berlin, +that a certain channel or waterway existed unguarded by any fort at all, +by which a British flotilla with muffled oars could have got quietly +into the Neva without taking the trouble to destroy the Russian fleet or +to blow the seven forts of Cronstadt into the air. The revelations of +the spy went for nothing; and, after the cutlasses of the lads in +blue-jackets had been sharpened to a razor-like degree of keenness, +those blades, for some occult reason, were not allowed to cut deep +enough; the only cutting—and running into the bargain—being done by +the Russian fleet, which, safely ensconced in the harbour of Cronstadt, +defied us from behind the walls of fortresses which we did not care to +bombard. Still, the Baltic fleet was not wholly idle. There was some +fighting and some advantage gained over the Russians at Helsingfors, at +Arbo, and notably at Bomarsund. In all these engagements Commander +Hobart distinguished himself—so brilliantly, indeed, as to be named +with high approval in official despatches.</p> + +<p>'Soldiers in peace, Bacon has remarked, are like chimneys in summer. +Hobart seemed resolved that the aphorism quoted by Francis of Verulam +should not be verified in the case of sailors. The fire of the Earl of +Buckinghamshire's son was always alight, and he became, during the great +Civil War in America the boldest of blockade-runners. When the +Confederacy collapsed Hobart, by this time a Post-Captain, received +overtures of employment from the Turkish Government, and in 1868 he was +appointed, as Admiral Slade had been before him, to a high command in +the Ottoman Navy. It was a curious illustration of the various turns of +fate here below to find <a name="Page_274" id="Page_274"></a>in 1869 the Sultan, the Commander of the +Faithful, sending the Giaour Hobart Pasha, the erst Secesh +blockade-runner, to the island of Crete to put down blockade-running on +the part of the intensely patriotic but occasionally troublesome Greeks. +Hobart was entrusted with unlimited powers, and he accomplished his +mission with so much vigour and with so much skill as to insure the good +graces of the Porte, and he soon rose to be Inspector-General of the +Imperial Ottoman Navy. Although his name was necessarily erased from the +list of the Royal Navy when he definitely threw in his lot with the +Sultan on the breaking out of the Turko-Russian war, all English +admirers of pluck and daring were glad to learn at a comparatively +recent period that the Honourable Augustus Charles Hobart Hampden had +been reinstated by Royal command in his rank in the British Navy.</p> + +<p>'It was the good fortune of the distinguished maritime commander just +deceased, to win golden opinions from all sorts of peoples, and his name +and prowess will be as cordially remembered in his native land, and in +the Southern States of America, as on the shores of the Bosphorus and +the Golden Horn.</p> + +<p>'A thorough Englishman at heart, he was none the less a fervent +philo-Turk in politics and convictions, and latterly devoted his talents +and his life to the defence of the integrity of the Ottoman Empire. As +ready with his pen as with his sword, he was a clear, trenchant, +vigorous writer, and could talk on paper as fluently and as cogently +about ironclads and torpedoes as about the wrongs of the natives of +Lazistan, the necessity of upholding the integrity of the Turkish +Empire, and of circumventing the dark and crooked <a name="Page_275" id="Page_275"></a>wiles of Russian +diplomacy. Altogether Augustus Charles Hobart was a remarkable +man—bluff, bold, dashing, and somewhat dogged. There was in his +composition something of the mediæval "condottiere," and a good deal +more of that Dugald Dalgetty whom Scott drew. Gustavus Adolphus would +have made much of Hobart; the great Czarina, Catherine II., would have +appointed him Commander-in-Chief of her fleet, and covered him with +honours, even as she did her Scotch Admiral Gleig, and that other yet +more famous sea-dog, king of corsairs, Paul Jones. It would be unjust to +sneer at Hobart as a mercenary. His was no more a hired sword than were +the blades of Schomberg and Berwick, of Maurice de Saxe and Eugene of +Savoy. When there was fighting to be done Hobart liked to be in it—that +is all. Of the fearless, dashing, adventurous Englishman, ready to go +anywhere and do anything, Hobart was a brilliantly representative type. +Originally endowed with a most vigorous physique, his constitution +became sapped at last by long years of hardship and fatigue incident to +the vicissitudes of a daring, adventurous career. He left Constantinople +on leave of absence some months ago to recruit his shattered health, and +spent several weeks at the Riviera. But it would seem that he +experienced little relief from the delicious climate of the South of +France, and it was on his homeward journey to Constantinople that this +brave and upright British worthy breathed his last. The immediate cause +of his death was, it is stated, an affection of the heart, a term +covering a vast extent of unexplored ground. It would be nearer the +truth to say that the frame of Augustus Charles Hobart was literally +worn out by travel and exposure and hard work of every kind which <a name="Page_276" id="Page_276"></a>had +been his lot, with but brief intervals of repose, ever since the day, in +the year 1836, when as a boy of thirteen he joined the Navy as a +midshipman.'</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>It will be gratifying to Englishmen to know that their distinguished +countryman received at his burial all the honours due to his high +station and noble qualities. Such a concourse of people of all ranks and +nations had never been seen at any public ceremony on the Bosphorus as +that which, on July 24, accompanied the remains of Hobart Pasha to their +last resting place in the English cemetery at Scutari, not far from the +spot where a tall granite obelisk records the brave deeds and glorious +death of those heroes who perished in the Crimean War.</p> + +<h4>FOOTNOTE</h4> + +<div class="footnotes"> +<div class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> It must be understood that both men and boats were +disguised so as to resemble the ordinary fishing coasters about those +parts.</div></div> + + + +<p>PRINTED BY</p> + +<p>SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE</p> + +<p>LONDON</p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Sketches From My Life, by Hobart Pasha + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES FROM MY LIFE *** + +***** This file should be named 16296-h.htm or 16296-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/6/2/9/16296/ + +Produced by Steven Gibbs, Janet Blenkinship and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +https://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +https://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at https://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit https://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including including checks, online payments and credit card +donations. To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + + +</pre> + +</body> +</html> diff --git a/16296-h/images/frontispiece.jpg b/16296-h/images/frontispiece.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..63e7cd1 --- /dev/null +++ b/16296-h/images/frontispiece.jpg diff --git a/16296.txt b/16296.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..82f0504 --- /dev/null +++ b/16296.txt @@ -0,0 +1,6300 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Sketches From My Life, by Hobart Pasha + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Sketches From My Life + By The Late Admiral Hobart Pasha + +Author: Hobart Pasha + +Release Date: July 15, 2005 [EBook #16296] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES FROM MY LIFE *** + + + + +Produced by Steven Gibbs, Janet Blenkinship and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + +{~--- UTF-8 BOM ---~} + + +SKETCHES + +FROM + +MY LIFE + + +BY THE LATE + +ADMIRAL HOBART PASHA + + + +_WITH A PORTRAIT_ + + + +THIRD EDITION + + +LONDON +LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. +1887 + +_All rights reserved_ + +PRINTED BY +SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE +LONDON + + + + +PREFACE. + + +These pages were the last ever written by the brave and true-hearted +sailor of whose life they are a simple record. + +A few months before his death, some of his friends made the fortunate +suggestion that he should put on paper a detailed account of his +sporting adventures, and this idea gradually developed itself until the +work took the present form of an autobiography, written roughly, it is +true, and put together without much method, part of it being dictated at +the Riviera during the last days of the author's fatal illness. Such as +it is, however, we are convinced that the many devoted friends of +Hobart Pasha who now lament his death will be glad to recall in these +'Sketches' the adventures and sports which some of them shared with him, +and the genial disposition and manly qualities which endeared him to +them all. + + + + +CONTENTS + + +CHAPTER PAGE + +I. A ROUGH START IN LIFE 1 + +II. PERILS BY SEA AND LAND 14 + +III. A TRAGICAL AFFAIR 27 + +IV. RIO DE JANEIRO 36 + +V. SLAVER HUNTING 43 + +VI. SLAVER HUNTING (_continued_) 53 + +VII. LOVE AND MURDER 62 + +VIII. THE QUEEN'S YACHT 71 + +IX. IN THE BALTIC 78 + +X. BLOCKADE-RUNNING 87 + +XI. EXCITING ADVENTURES 103 + +XII. A VISIT TO CHARLESTON 120 + +XIII. NEVER CAUGHT! 133 + +XIV. LAST DAYS ON THE 'D----N' 147 + +CHAPTER PAGE + +XV. RICHMOND DURING THE SIEGE 159 + +XVI. THE LAND BLOCKADE 175 + +XVII. I ENTER THE TURKISH NAVY 186 + +XVIII. THE WAR WITH RUSSIA 201 + +XIX. THE TURKISH FLEET DURING THE WAR 217 + +XX. SPORT IN TURKEY 235 + +XXI. SPORT AND SOCIETY 253 + +EXTRACT FROM THE 'DAILY TELEGRAPH' 277 + +SKETCHES FROM MY LIFE. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +A ROUGH START IN LIFE. + + +To attempt to write and publish sketches of my somewhat eventful career +is an act that, I fear, entails the risk of making enemies of some with +whom I have come in contact. But I have arrived at that time of life +when, while respecting, as I do, public opinion, I have hardened +somewhat into indifference of censure. I will, however, endeavour to +write as far as lies in my power (while recording facts) 'in charity +with all men.' This can be done in most part by omitting the names of +ships in which and officers under whom I have served. + +I was born, as the novelists say, of respectable parents, at +Walton-on-the-Wold, in Leicestershire, on April 1, 1822. I will pass +over my early youth, which was, as might be expected, from the time of +my birth until I was ten years of age, without any event that could +prove interesting to those who are kind enough to peruse these pages. + +At the age of ten I was sent to a well-known school at Cheam, in Surrey, +the master of which, Dr. Mayo, has turned out some very distinguished +pupils, of whom I was not fated to be one; for, after a year or so of +futile attempt on my part to learn something, and give promise that I +might aspire to the woolsack or the premiership, I was pronounced +hopeless; and having declared myself anxious to emulate the deeds of +Nelson, and other celebrated sailors, it was decided that I should enter +the navy, and steps were taken to send me at once to sea. + +A young cousin of mine who had been advanced to the rank of captain, +more through the influence of his high connections than from any merit +of his own, condescended to give me a nomination in a ship which he had +just commissioned, and thus I was launched like a young bear, 'having +all his sorrows to come,' into Her Majesty's navy as a naval cadet. I +shall never forget the pride with which I donned my first uniform, +little thinking what I should have to go through. My only consolation +while recounting facts that will make many parents shudder at the +thought of what their children (for they are little more when they join +the service) were liable to suffer, is, that things are now totally +altered, and that under the present regime every officer, whatever his +rank, is treated like a gentleman, or he, or his friends, can know 'the +reason why.' + +I am writing of a period some fifteen or twenty years after Marryat had +astonished the world by his thrilling descriptions of a naval officer's +life and its accompanying troubles. At the time of which I write people +flattered themselves that the sufferings which 'Midshipman Easy' and +'The Naval Officer' underwent while serving the Crown were tales of the +past. I will show by what I am about very briefly to relate that such +was very far from being the case. + +Everything being prepared, and good-bye being said to my friends, who +seemed rather glad to be rid of me, I was allowed to travel from London +on the box of a carriage which contained the great man who had given me +the nomination (captains of men-of-war were very great men in those +days), and after a long weary journey we arrived at the port where +H.M.S.---- was lying ready for sea. On the same night of our arrival the +sailing orders came from the Admiralty; we were to go to sea the next +day, our destination being South America. + +Being a very insignificant individual, I was put into a waterman's boat +with my chest and bed, and was sent on board. On reporting myself, I was +told by the commanding officer not to bother him, but to go to my mess, +where I should be taken care of. On descending a ladder to the lower +deck, I looked about for the mess, or midshipmen's berth, as it was then +called. In one corner of this deck was a dirty little hole about ten +feet long and six feet wide, five feet high. It was lighted by two or +three dips, otherwise tallow candles, of the commonest +description--behold the mess! + +In this were seated six or seven officers and gentlemen, some +twenty-five to thirty years of age, called mates, meaning what are now +called sub-lieutenants. They were drinking rum and water and eating +mouldy biscuits; all were in their shirtsleeves, and really, considering +the circumstances, seemed to be enjoying themselves exceedingly. + +On my appearance it was evident that I was looked upon as an interloper, +for whom, small as I was, room must be found. I was received with a +chorus of exclamations, such as, 'What the deuce does the little fellow +want here?' 'Surely there are enough of us crammed into this beastly +little hole!' 'Oh, I suppose he is some protege of the captain's,' &c. +&c. + +At last one, more kindly disposed than the rest, addressed me: 'Sorry +there is no more room in here, youngster;' and calling a dirty-looking +fellow, also in his shirtsleeves, said, 'Steward, give this young +gentleman some tea and bread and butter, and get him a hammock to sleep +in.' So I had to be contented to sit on a chest outside the midshipmen's +berth, eat my tea and bread and butter, and turn into a hammock for the +first time in my life, which means 'turned out'--the usual procedure +being to tumble out several times before getting accustomed to this, to +me, novel bedstead. However, once accustomed to the thing, it is easy +enough, and many indeed have been the comfortable nights I have slept in +a hammock, such a sleep as many an occupant of a luxurious four-poster +might envy. At early dawn a noise all around me disturbed my slumbers: +this was caused by all hands--officers and men--being called up to +receive the captain, who was coming alongside to assume his command by +reading his official appointment. + +I shall never forget his first words. He was a handsome young man, with +fine features, darkened, however, by a deep scowl. As he stepped over +the side he greeted us by saying to the first lieutenant in a loud +voice, 'Put all my boat's crew in irons for neglect of duty.' It seems +that one of them kept him waiting for a couple of minutes when he came +down to embark. After giving this order our captain honoured the +officers who received him with a haughty bow, read aloud his commission, +and retired to his cabin, having ordered the anchor to be weighed in two +hours. + +Accordingly at eight o'clock we stood out to sea, the weather being fine +and wind favourable. At eleven all hands were called to attend the +punishment of the captain's boat's crew. I cannot describe the horror +with which I witnessed six fine sailor-like looking fellows torn by the +frightful cat, for having kept this officer waiting a few minutes on the +pier. Nor will I dwell on this illegal sickening proceeding, as I do not +write to create a sensation, and, thank goodness! such things cannot be +done now. + +I had not much time for reflection, for my turn came next. I believe I +cried or got into somebody's way, or did something to vex the tyrant; +all I know is that I heard myself addressed as 'You young scoundrel,' +and ordered to go to the 'mast-head.' Go to the mast-head indeed! with +a freshening wind, under whose influence the ship was beginning to heel +over, and an increasing sea that made her jump about like an acrobat. I +had not got my sea legs, and this feat seemed an utter impossibility to +me. I looked with horror up aloft; then came over me the remembrance of +Marryat's story of the lad who refused to go to the mast-head, and who +was hoisted up by the signal halyards. While thinking of this, another +'Well, sir, why don't you obey orders?' started me into the lower +rigging, which I began with the greatest difficulty to climb, expecting +at every step to go headlong overboard. + +A good-natured sailor, seeing the fix I was in, gave me a helping hand, +and up I crawled as far as the maintop. This, I must explain to my +non-nautical reader, is not the mast-head, but a comparatively +comfortable half-way resting-place, from whence one can look about +feeling somewhat secure. + +On looking down to the deck my heart bled to see the poor sailor who had +helped me undergoing punishment for his kind act. I heard myself at the +same time ordered 'to go higher,' and a little higher I did go. Then I +stopped, frightened to death, and almost senseless; terror, however, +seemed to give me presence of mind to cling on, and there I remained +till some hours afterwards; then I was called down. On reaching the deck +I fainted, and knew no more till I awoke after some time in my hammock. + +Now, I ask anyone, even a martinet at heart, whether such treatment of a +boy, not thirteen years of age, putting his life into the greatest +danger, taking this first step towards breaking his spirit, and in all +probability making him, as most likely had been done to the poor men I +had seen flogged that morning, into a hardened mutinous savage, was not +disgraceful? + +Moreover, it was as close akin to murder as it could be, for I don't +know how it was I didn't fall overboard, and then nothing could have +saved my life. However, as I didn't fall, I was not drowned, and the +effect on me was curious enough. For all I had seen and suffered on that +the opening day of my sea-life made me think for the first time--and I +have never ceased thinking (half a century has passed since then)--how +to oppose tyranny in every shape. Indeed, I have always done so to such +an extent as to have been frequently called by my superiors 'a +troublesome character,' 'a sea lawyer,' &c. + +Perhaps in this way I have been able to effect something, however +small, towards the entire change that has taken place in the treatment +of those holding subordinate positions in the navy--and that something +has had its use, for the tyrant's hand is by force stayed now, 'for once +and for all.' + +With this little I am satisfied. + +Now let us briefly look into the question, 'Why are men tyrants when +they have it in _their power to be so_?' + +Unfortunately, as a rule, it appears to come natural to them! What +caused the Indian Mutiny? Let Indian officers and those employed in the +Indian civil service answer that question. + +However, I have only to do with naval officers. My experience tells me +that a man clothed with brief but supreme authority, such as the command +of a man-of-war, in those days when for months and months he was away +from all control of his superiors and out of reach of public censure, is +more frequently apt to listen to the promptings of the devil, which more +or less attack every man, especially when he is alone. + +Away from the softening influence of society and the wholesome fear of +restraint, for a time at least the voice of his better angel is +silenced. Perhaps also the necessarily solitary position of a commander +of a man-of-war, his long, lonely hours, the utter change from the +jovial life he led previous to being afloat, to say nothing of his liver +getting occasionally out of order, may all tend to make him irritable +and despotic. + +I have seen a captain order his steward to be flogged, almost to death, +because his pea-soup was not hot. I have seen an officer from twenty to +twenty-five years of age made to stand between two guns with a sentry +over him for hours, because he had neglected to see and salute the +tyrant who had come on deck in the dark. And as a proof, though it seems +scarcely credible, of what such men can do when unchecked by fear of +consequences, I will cite the following:-- + +On one occasion the captain of whom I have been writing invited a friend +to breakfast with him, and there being, I suppose, a slight monotony in +the conversation, he asked his guest whether he would like, by way of +diversion, to see a man flogged. The amusement was accepted, and a man +_was_ flogged. + +It was about the time I write of that the tyranny practised on board Her +Majesty's ships was slowly but surely dawning upon the public, and a +general outcry against injustice began. + +This was shown in a very significant manner by the following fact:-- + +A post-captain of high rank and powerful connections dared, in +contradiction to naval law, to flog a midshipman. This young officer's +father, happening to be a somewhat influential man, made a stir about +the affair. The honourable captain was tried by court-martial and +severely reprimanded. + +However, I will cut short these perhaps uninteresting details, merely +stating that for three years I suffered most shameful treatment. My last +interview with my amiable cousin is worth relating. The ship was paid +off, and the captain, on going to the hotel at Portsmouth, sent for me +and offered me a seat on his carriage to London. Full of disgust and +horror at the very sight of him, I replied that I would rather 'crawl +home on my hands and knees than go in his carriage,' and so ended our +acquaintance, for I never saw him again. + +It may be asked how, like many others, I tided over all the ill-usage +and the many trials endured during three years. The fact is, I had +become during that period of ill-treatment so utterly hardened to it +that I seemed to feel quite indifferent and didn't care a rap. But +wasn't I glad to be free! + +I had learnt many a lesson of use to me in after life, the most +important of all being to sympathise with other people's miseries, and +to make allowance for the faults and shortcomings of humanity. + +On the other hand, experience is a severe taskmaster, and it taught me +to be somewhat insubordinate in my notions. I fear I must confess that +this spirit of insubordination has never left me. + +On my arrival at home my relations failed to see in me an ill-used lad +(I was only sixteen), and seemed inclined to disbelieve my yarns; but +this did not alter the facts, nor can I ever forget what I went through +during that 'reign of terror,' as it might well be called. + +People may wonder how was it in the days of Benbow and his successors no +complaints were made. To this I answer, first, that the men of those +days, knowing the utter hopelessness of complaining, preferred to 'grin +and bear;' secondly, that neither officers nor men were supposed to +possess such a thing as feeling, when they had once put their foot on +board a man-of-war. Then there were the almost interminable sea voyages +under sail, during which unspeakable tyrannies could be practised, +unheard of beyond the ship, and unpunished. It must be remembered that +there were no telegraphs, no newspaper correspondents, no questioning +public, so that the evil side of human nature (so often shown in the +very young in their cruelty to animals) had its swing, fearless of +retribution. + +Let us leave this painful subject, with the consoling thought that we +shall never see the like again. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +PERILS BY SEA AND LAND. + + +After enjoying a few weeks at home, I was appointed to the Naval Brigade +on service in Spain, acting with the English army, who were there by way +of assisting Queen Christina against Don Carlos. + +The army was a curious collection of regular troops and volunteer +soldiers, the latter what would be called 'Bashi-Bazouks.' The naval +part of the expedition consisted of 1,200 Royal Marines, and a brigade +of sailors under the orders of Lord John Hay. The army (barring the +regulars, who were few in numbers) was composed of about 15,000 of the +greatest rabble I ever saw, commanded by Sir De Lacy Evans. + +For fear any objection or misapprehension be applied to the word +'rabble,' I must at once state that these volunteers, though in +appearance so motley and undisciplined, fought splendidly, and in that +respect did all honour to their country and the cause they were +fighting for. + +Very soon after we had disembarked I received what is usually called my +'baptism of fire,' that is to say, I witnessed 'the first shot fired in +anger.' The Carlists were pressing hard on the Queen's forces, who were +returning towards the sea; it was of the greatest importance to hold +certain heights that defended San Sebastian and the important port of +Passagis. + +The gallant marines (as usual to the front) were protecting the hill on +which Lord John was standing; the fire was hot and furious. I candidly +admit I was in mortal fear, and when a shell dropped right in the middle +of us, and was, I thought, going to burst (as it did), I fell down on my +face. Lord John, who was close to me, and looking as cool as a cucumber, +gave me a severe kick, saying, 'Get up, you cowardly young rascal; are +you not ashamed of yourself?' + +I did get up and _was_ ashamed of myself. From that moment to this I +have never been hard upon those who flinched at the first fire they were +under. My pride helped me out of the difficulty, and I flinched no more. +For an hour or so the battle raged furiously. + +By degrees all fear left me; I felt only excitement and anger, and when +we (a lot I had to do with it!) drove the enemy back in the utmost +confusion, wasn't I proud! + +When all was over Lord John called me, and after apologising in the most +courteous manner for the kick, he gave me his hand (poor fellow! he had +already lost one arm while fighting for his country), and said: 'Don't +be discouraged, youngster; you are by no means the first who has shown +alarm on being for the first time under fire.' So I was happy. + +It is not my intention to give in detail the events that I witnessed +during that disastrous civil war in Spain; suffice it that after much +hard fighting the Carlists were driven back into their mountains so much +discouraged that they eventually renounced a hopeless cause; and at all +events for a long period order was restored in Spain. + +After serving under Lord John Hay for six or seven months, I was +appointed to another ship, which was ordered to my old station, South +America. + +The captain of my new ship was in every sense a gentleman, and although +a strict disciplinarian, was just and kind-hearted. From the captain +downwards every officer was the same in thought and deed, so we were all +as happy as sand-boys. It was then that I began to realise a fact of +which before I had only a notion--namely, that discipline can be +maintained without undue severity, to say nothing of cruelty, and that +service in the navy could be made a pleasure as well as a duty to one's +country. + +After visiting Rio de Janeiro, we were sent to the River Plate; there we +remained nearly a year, during which time several adventures which I +will relate occurred, both concerning my duties and my amusements. + +I must tell my readers that from earliest boyhood I had a passionate +love for shooting; and, through the kindness of my commanding officer +while at Monte Video, I was allowed constantly to indulge in sport. + +On one occasion my captain, who was a keen sportsman, took me with him +out shooting. We had a famous day's sport, filled our game bags with +partridges, ducks, and snipe, and were returning home on horseback when +a solitary horseman, a nasty-looking fellow, armed to the teeth, rode up +to us. As I knew a little Spanish we began to talk about shooting, &c. +&c.; then he asked me to shoot a bird for him (the reason why he did +this will be seen immediately). I didn't like the cut of his jib, so +rather snubbed him. However, he continued to ride on with us, to within +half a mile of where our boat was waiting to take us on board. I must +explain our relative positions as we rode along. The captain was on my +left, I next to him, and the man was on my right, riding very near to +me. All of a sudden he exclaimed in Spanish, 'Now is the time or never,' +threw his right leg over the pommel of his saddle, slipped on to the +ground, drew his knife, dashed at me, and after snatching my gun from my +hand, stuck his knife (as he thought) into me. Then he rushed towards +the captain, pulling the trigger of my gun, and pointing straight at the +latter's head; the gun was not loaded, having only the old percussion +caps on. (Now I saw why he wanted me to fire, so that he might know +whether my gun was loaded; but the old caps evidently deceived him.) + +All this was the work of a very few seconds. Now what was my chief +doing? Seeing a row going on, he was dismounting; in fact, was half-way +off his horse, only one foot in the stirrup, when the man made the rush +at him. Finding me stuck to my saddle (for the ruffian's knife had gone +through my coat and pinned me), and the fellow snapping my gun, which +was pointed at him, he as coolly as possible put his gun over his +horse's shoulder and shot the would-be murderer dead on the spot. Then +turning to me he said quite calmly, 'I call you to witness that that +man intended to murder me.' How differently all would have ended had my +gun been loaded! The villain would have shot my chief, taken both guns, +and galloped off, leaving me ignominiously stuck to my saddle. + +The audacity of this one man attacking us two armed sportsmen showed the +immense confidence these prairie people feel in themselves, especially +in their superior horsemanship. However, the fellow caught a Tartar on +this occasion. + +As for me, the knife had gone, as I said, through my loose shooting +jacket just below the waist, through the upper part of my trousers, and +so into the saddle, without even touching my skin. I have kept the knife +in memory of my lucky escape. + +While laying at Monte Video there was on each side of us a French +man-of-war, the officers of which were very amiably inclined, and many +were the dinners and parties exchanged between us. + +In those days the interchange of our respective languages was very +limited on both sides, so much so, that our frantic efforts to +understand each other were a constant source of amusement. A French +midshipman and myself, however, considered ourselves equal to the +occasion, and professed linguists; so on the principle that in the 'land +of the blind the one-eyed man is king,' we were the swells of the +festivities. + +I remember on one occasion, when the birthday of Louis Philippe was to +be celebrated, my French midshipman friend came on board officially and +said, 'Sir, the first of the month is the feast of the King; you must +fire the gun.' 'All right,' said we. Accordingly, we loaded our guns in +the morning, preparatory to saluting at noon. It was raining heavily all +the forenoon, so we had not removed what is called the tompions (to my +unprofessional reader I may say that the tompion is a very large piece +of wood made to fit into the muzzle, for the purpose of preventing wet +from penetrating). To this tompion is, or used to be, attached a large +piece of wadding, what for I never rightly understood. + +Now it seems that those whose duty it was to attend to it had neglected +to take these things out of the guns. + +On the first gun being fired from the French ship we began our salute. +The French ships were close alongside of us, one on either side. The +gunner who fires stands with the hand-glass to mark the time between +each discharge. On this occasion he began his orders thus: 'Fire, port;' +then suddenly recollecting that the tompions were not removed he added, +'Tompions are in, sir.' No one moved. The gunner could not leave his +work of marking time. Again he gave the order, 'Fire, starboard,' +repeating, 'Tompions are in, sir,' and so on till half the broadside had +been fired before the tompions had been taken out. It is difficult to +describe the consternation on board the French vessels, whose decks were +crowded with strangers (French merchants, &c.), invited from the shore +to do honour to their King's fete. These horrid tompions and their +adjuncts went flying on to their decks, from which every one scampered +in confusion. It was lucky our guns did not burst. + +This was a most awkward dilemma for all of us. I was sent on board to +apologise. The French captain, with the courtesy of his nation, took the +mishap most good-humouredly, begging me to return the tompions to my +captain, as they had no occasion for them. So no bad feeling was +created, though shortly after this contretemps an affair of so serious a +nature took place, that a certain coldness crept in between ourselves +and our ci-devant friends. + +It seems that there had been of late several desertions from the French +vessels lying at Monte Video, great inducements of very high wages being +offered by the revolutionary party in Buenos Ayres for men to serve +them. The French commander therefore determined to search all vessels +leaving Monte Video for other ports in the River Plate--a somewhat +arbitrary proceeding, and one certain to lead to misunderstanding sooner +or later. + +On the occasion I refer to, a vessel which, though not under the English +flag, had in some way or other obtained English protection, was leaving +the port; so we sent an officer and a party of armed men to prevent her +being interfered with. I was of the party, which was commanded by our +second lieutenant. Our doing this gave great offence to the French +commander, who shortly after we had gone on board also sent a party of +armed men, with positive orders to search the vessel at all risks. On +our part we were ordered not to allow the vessel to be searched or +interfered with. The French officer, a fine young fellow, came on board +with his men and repeated his orders to Lieutenant C----. The vessel, I +may mention, was a schooner of perhaps a couple of hundred tons, about +130 feet long. We had taken possession of the after-part of the deck, +the French crew established themselves on the fore-part. + +Never was there a more awkward position. The men on both sides loaded +and cocked their muskets. The English and French officers stood close to +one another. The former said, 'Sir, you have no business here, this +vessel is under English protection. I give you five minutes to leave or +take the consequences.' The other replied, 'Sir, I am ordered to search +the vessel, and search her I will.' They both seemed to, and I am sure +did, mean business; for myself, I got close to my lieutenant and cocked +a pistol, intending to shoot the French officer at the least show of +fighting. Nevertheless, I thought it a shockingly cruel and inhuman +thing to begin a cold-blooded fight under such circumstances. + +However, to obey orders is the duty of every man. Lieutenant C---- +looked at his watch; two minutes to spare. The marines were ordered to +prepare, and I thought at the end of the two minutes the deck of the +little vessel would have been steeped in blood. Just then, in the +distance, there appeared a boat pulling towards us at full speed; it +seems that wiser counsels had prevailed between the captains of the two +ships: the French were told to withdraw and leave the vessel in our +hands. + +I was much amused at the cordial way in which the two lieutenants shook +hands on receiving this order. There would indeed have been a fearful +story to tell had it not arrived in time; for I never saw determination +written so strongly on men's countenances as on those of both parties, +so nearly engaged in what must have proved a most bloody fight. + +After this incident cordial relations were never re-established between +ourselves and our French friends; fortunately, shortly afterwards we +sailed for Buenos Ayres. + +Buenos Ayres, that paradise of pretty women, good cheer, and all that is +nice to the sailor who is always ready for a lark! We at once went in +for enjoying ourselves to our heart's content; we began, every one of +us, by falling deeply in love before we had been there forty-eight +hours--I say every one, because such is a fact. + +My respectable captain, who had been for many years living as a +confirmed bachelor with his only relative, an old spinster sister, with +whom he chummed, and I fancy had hardly been known to speak to another +woman, was suddenly perceived walking about the street with a large +bouquet in his hand, his hair well oiled, his coat (generally so loose +and comfortable-looking) buttoned tight to show off his figure; and then +he took to sporting beautiful kid gloves, and even to dancing. He could +not be persuaded to go on board at any cost, while he had never left his +ship before, except for an occasional day's shooting. In short, he had +fallen hopelessly in love with a buxom Spanish lady with lustrous eyes +as black as her hair, the widow of a murdered governor of the town. + +Our first and second lieutenants followed suit; both were furiously in +love; and, as I said, every one, even a married man, one of my +messmates, fell down and worshipped the lovely (and lovely they were, +and no mistake) Spanish girls of Buenos Ayres, whose type of beauty is +that which only the blue blood of Spain can boast of. Now, reader, don't +be shocked, I fell in love myself, and my love affair proved of a more +serious nature, at least in its results, than that of the others, +because, while the daughter (she was sixteen, and I seventeen) responded +to my affection, her mother, a handsome woman of forty, chose to fall in +love with me herself. + +This was rather a disagreeable predicament, for I didn't, of course, +return the mother's affection a bit, while I was certainly dreadfully +spoony on the daughter. + +To make a long story short, the girl and I, like two fools as we were, +decided to run away together, and run away we did. I should have been +married if the mother hadn't run after us. She didn't object to our +being married, but, in the meantime, she remained with us, and she +managed to make the country home we had escaped to, with the intention +of settling down there, so unbearable, that, luckily for me as regards +my future, I contrived to get away, and went as fast as I could on board +my ship for refuge, never landing again during our stay at Buenos Ayres. + +Fortunately, shortly afterwards we were ordered away, and so ended my +first love affair. + +I shall never forget the melancholy, woebegone faces of my captain and +brother officers on our re-assembling on board. It was really most +ludicrous. However, a sea voyage which included several sharp gales of +wind soon erased all sad memories; things gradually 'brightened,' and +ere many weeks had passed all on board H.M.S.---- resumed their usual +appearance. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +A TRAGICAL AFFAIR. + + +Whilst I was at Buenos Ayres I had the good luck to visit the +independent province of Paraguay, which my readers must have heard +spoken of, sometimes with admiration, sometimes with sneers, as the +hot-bed of Jesuitism. Those who sneer say that the Jesuit fathers who +left Spain under Martin Garcia formed this colony in the River Plate +entirely in accordance with the principles their egotism and love of +power dictated. It may be so; it is possible that the Jesuits were wrong +in the conclusions they came to as regards the governing or guiding of +human nature; all I can say is, that the perfect order reigning +throughout the colony they had formed, the respect for the clergy, the +cheerful obedience to laws, the industry and peaceful happiness one saw +at every step, made an impression on me I have never forgotten; and when +I compare it with the discord, the crime, and the hatred of all +authority which is now prevailing, alas! in most civilised countries, I +look back to what I saw in Paraguay with a sigh of regret that such +things are of the past. It was beautiful to see the respect paid to the +Church (the acknowledged ruler of the place), the cleanliness and +comfort of the farms and villages, the good-will and order that +prevailed amongst the natives. It was most interesting to visit the +schools, where only so much learning was introduced as was considered +necessary for the minds of the industrious population, without rendering +them troublesome to the colony or to themselves. Though the inhabitants +were mostly of the fiery and ungovernable Spanish race, who had mixed +with the wild aborigines, it is remarkable that they remained quiet and +submissive. + +To prevent pernicious influences reaching this 'happy valley,' the +strictest regulations were maintained as regards strangers visiting the +colony. + +The River Plate, which, coming down from the Andes through hundreds of +miles of rich country, flows through Paraguay, was unavailable to +commerce owing to this law of exclusiveness, which prevented even the +water which washed the shores being utilised. However, about the time I +speak of the English government had determined, in the general +interests of trade, to oppose this monopoly, and to open a way of +communication up the river by force if necessary. The Paraguayans +refused to accept the propositions made by the English, and prepared to +fight for their so-called rights. They threw a formidable barrier across +the stream, and made a most gallant resistance. It was on this occasion +that Captain (now Admiral) H---- performed the courageous action which +covered him with renown for the rest of his life. The enemy had, amongst +other defences, placed a heavy iron chain across the river. This chain +it was absolutely necessary to remove, and the gallant officer I refer +to, who commanded the attack squadron, set a splendid example to us all +by dashing forward and cutting with a cold chisel the links of this +chain. The whole time he was thus at work he was exposed to a tremendous +fire, having two men killed and two wounded out of the six he took with +him. This deed, now almost forgotten by the public, can never be effaced +from the memory of those who saw it done. That the fight was a severe +one is evident from the fact that the vessel I belonged to had 107 shots +in her hull, and thirty-five out of seventy men killed and wounded. + +It was after we had thus forced ourselves into intercourse with the +Paraguayans that I saw an instance of want of tact which struck me as +most remarkable. Fighting being over, diplomacy stepped in, and a man of +somewhat high rank in that service was sent to make friendly overtures +to the authorities. Can it be believed (I do not say it as a sneer +against diplomacy, for this blunder was really _unique_), this big man +had scarcely finished the pipe of peace which he smoked with the +authorities, when he proposed to introduce vaccination and tracts among +the people? Badly as the poor fellows felt the licking they had +received, and much as they feared another should they give trouble to +the invaders, they so resented our representative's meddling that he +found it better to beat a hasty retreat, and to send a wiser man in his +stead. But their fate was sealed, and from the moment the stranger put +his foot into this interesting country dates its entire change. The +system that the Jesuits established was quickly done away with. Paraguay +is now a part of the Argentine Republic, it is generally at war with +some of its neighbours, and its inhabitants are poor, disorderly, and +wretched. + +As I shall have, while telling the story of my life, to relate more +serious events, I will, after recounting one more yarn, not weary my +readers with the little uninteresting details of my youthful adventures, +but pass over the next three years or so, at which time, after having +returned to England, I was appointed to another ship going to South +America, for the purpose of putting down the slave trade in the Brazils. +The adventure to which I have referred was one that made a deep +impression on my mind, as being of a most tragic nature. + +While at Rio de Janeiro we were in the habit of visiting among the +people, attending dances, &c. I always remarked that the pretty young +Brazilian girls liked dancing with the fresh young English sailors +better than with their mud-coloured companions of the male sex, the +inhabitants of the country. + +At the time I write of the English were not liked by the Brazilians, +partly on account of the raid we were then making on the slave trade, +partly through the usual jealousy always felt by the ignorant towards +the enlightened. So with the men we were seldom or ever on good terms, +but with the girls somehow sailors always contrive to be friends. + +It was at one of the dances I have spoken of that the scene I am about +to describe took place. + +Among the pretty girls who attended the ball was one prettier perhaps +than any of her companions; indeed, she was called the belle of Rio +Janeiro. I will not attempt to portray her, but I must own she was far +too bewitching for the peace of heart of her many admirers, and +unhappily she was an unmitigated flirt in every sense of the word. + +Now there was a young Brazilian nobleman who had, as he thought, been +making very successful progress towards winning this girl's heart--if +she had a heart. All was progressing smoothly enough till these hapless +English sailors arrived. + +Then, perhaps with the object of making her lover jealous (a very common +though dangerous game), Mademoiselle pretended (for I presume it was +pretence) to be immensely smitten with one of them--a handsome young +midshipman whom we will call A. + +At the ball where the incident I refer to occurred, she danced once with +him, twice with him, and was about to start with him a third time, when, +to the astonishment of the lookers-on, of whom I formed part, the young +Brazilian rushed into the middle of the room where the couple were +standing, walked close up to them and spat in A.'s face. + +Before the aggressor could look round him, he found himself sprawling on +the floor, knocked by the angry Briton into what is commonly called 'a +cocked hat.' Not a word was spoken. A. wiped his face, led his partner +to a seat and came straight to me, putting his arm in mine and leading +me into the verandah. The Brazilian picked himself up and came also +into the verandah; in less time than I can write it a hostile meeting +was settled, pistols were procured, and we (I say we, because I had +undertaken to act as A.'s friend, and the Brazilian had also engaged a +friend) sauntered into the garden as if for a stroll. + +It was a most lovely moonlight night, such a night as can only be seen +in the tropics. + +I should mention that the chief actors in the coming conflict had +neither of them seen twenty years, and we their seconds were +considerably under that age. The aggressor, whose jealous fury had +driven him almost to madness when he committed an outrageous affront on +a stranger, was a tall, handsome, dark-complexioned young fellow. A. was +also very good-looking, with a baby complexion, blue eyes and light +curly hair, a very type of the Saxon race. + +They both looked determined and calm. After proceeding a short distance +we found a convenient spot in a lovely glade. It was almost as clear as +day, so bright was the moonlight. The distance was measured (fourteen +paces), the pistols carefully loaded. Before handing them to the +principals we made an effort at arrangement, an effort too +contemptuously received to be insisted upon, and we saw that any +attempt at reconciliation would be of no avail without the exchange of +shots; so, handing to each his weapon, we retired a short distance to +give the signal for firing, which was to be done by my dropping a +pocket-handkerchief. It was an anxious moment even for us, who were only +lookers-on. I gave the words, one, two, three, and dropped the +handkerchief. + +The pistols went off simultaneously. To my horror I saw the young +Brazilian spin round and drop to the ground, his face downwards; we +rushed up to him and found that the bullet from A.'s pistol had gone +through his brain. He was stone dead. + +Then the solemnity of the whole affair dawned on us, but there was no +time for thought. Something must be done at once, for revenge quick and +fearful was sure to follow such a deed like lightning. + +We determined to hurry A. off to his ship, and I begged the young +Brazilian to go into the house and break the sad news. The poor fellow, +though fearfully cut up, behaved like a gentleman, walking slowly away +so as to give us time to escape. As we passed the scene of gaiety the +sounds of music and dancing were going on, just as when we left it. How +little the jovial throng dreamt of the tragedy that had just been +enacted within a few yards of them; of the young life cut down on its +threshold! + +We got on board all right, but such a terrible row was made about the +affair that the ship to which A. belonged had to go to sea the next day, +and did not appear again at Rio de Janeiro. + +I, though not belonging to that vessel, was not allowed to land for many +months. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +RIO DE JANEIRO. + + +One word about Rio de Janeiro. Rio, as it is generally called, is +perhaps one of the most lovely spots in the world. The beautiful natural +bay and harbour are unequalled throughout the whole universe. Still, +like the Bosphorus, the finest effect is made by Rio de Janeiro when +looked at from the water. In the days of which I write yellow fever was +unknown; now that fearful disease kills its thousands, aye, tens of +thousands, yearly. The climate, though hot at times, is very good; in +the summer the mornings are hot to a frying heat, but the sea breeze +comes in regularly as clockwork, and when it blows everything is cool +and nice. Life is indeed a lazy existence; there is no outdoor amusement +of any kind to be had in the neighbourhood. As to shooting, there are +only a few snipe to be found here and there, and while looking for these +you must beware of snakes and other venomous reptiles, which abound +both in the country and in town. I remember a terrible fright a large +picnic party, at which I assisted, was thrown into while lunching in the +garden of a villa, almost in the town of Rio, by a lady jumping up from +her seat with a deadly whip-snake hanging on her dress. I once myself +sat on an adder who put his fangs through the woollen stuff of my +inexpressibles and could not escape. The same thing happened with the +lady's dress; in that case also we caught the snake, as it could not +disentangle its fangs. + +In the country near Rio there are great snakes called the anaconda, a +sort of boa-constrictor on a large scale. Once, while walking in the +woods with some friends, we found a little Indian boy dead on the +ground, one of these big snakes lying within a foot or so of him, also +dead; the snake had a poisoned arrow in his brain, which evidently had +been shot at him by the poor little boy, whose blow-pipe was lying by +his side. The snake must have struck the boy before it died, as we found +a wound on the boy's neck. This reptile measured twenty-two feet in +length. + +By the way, a well-known author, Mrs. B----, tells a marvellous story +about these snakes. She says that they always go in pairs, have great +affection for each other, and are prepared on all occasions to resent +affronts offered to either of them. She narrates that a peasant once +killed a big anaconda, and that the other, or chum snake, followed the +man several miles to the house where he had taken the dead one, got in +by the window, and crushed the destroyer of his friend to death. I +expect that some salt is necessary to swallow this tale, but such is the +statement Mrs. B---- makes. + +The most lovely birds and butterflies are found near Rio, and the finest +collections in the world are made there. The white people are Portuguese +by origin--not a nice lot to my fancy, though the ladies are as usual +always nice, especially when young; they get old very soon through +eating sweets and not taking exercise. There is very little poverty +except among the free blacks, who are lazy and idle and somewhat +vicious. I always have believed that the black man is an inferior +animal--in fact, that the dark races are meant to be drawers of water +and hewers of wood. I do not deny that they have souls to be saved, but +I believe that their role in this world is to attend on the white man. +The black is, and for years has been, educated on perfect equality with +the white man, and has had every chance of improving himself--with what +result? You could almost count on your fingers the names of those who +have distinguished themselves in the battle of life. + +Sometimes, while cruising off the coast of Rio de Janeiro looking out +for slave vessels, we passed a very monotonous life. The long and +fearfully hot mornings before the sea breeze sets in, the still longer +and choking nights with the thermometer at 108 deg., were trying in the +extreme to those accustomed to the fresh air of northern climates; but +sailors have always something of the 'Mark Tapley' about them and are +generally jolly under all circumstances, and so it was with me. One day, +while longing for something to do, I discovered that the crew had been +ordered to paint the ship outside; as a pastime I put on old clothes and +joined the painting party. Planks were hung round the ship by ropes +being tied to each end of the plank; on these the men stood to do their +work. We had not been employed there very long when there was a cry from +the deck that the ship was surrounded by sharks. It seems that the +butcher had killed a sheep, whose entrails, having been thrown +overboard, attracted these fearful brutes round the ship in great +numbers. As may be imagined, this report created a real panic among the +painters, for I believe we all feared a shark more than an enemy armed +to the teeth. I at once made a hurried movement to get off my plank. As +I did so the rope at one end slipped off, and so threw the piece of +wood, to which I had to hang as on a rope, up and down the vessel's +side, bringing my feet to within a very few inches of the water. On +looking downwards I saw a great shark in the water, almost within +snapping distance of my legs. I can swear that my hair stood on end with +fear; though I held on like grim death, I felt myself going, yes, going, +little by little right into the beast's jaws. At that moment, only just +in time, a rope was thrown over my head from the deck above me, and I +was pulled from my fearfully perilous position, more dead than alive. +Now for revenge on the brutes who would have eaten me if they could! It +was a dead calm, the sharks were still swimming round the ship waiting +for their prey. We got a lot of hooks with chains attached to them, on +which we put baits of raw meat. I may as well mention a fact not +generally known, viz., that a shark must turn on his back before opening +his capacious mouth sufficiently to feed himself; when he turns he means +business, and woe to him who is within reach of the man-eater's jaws. On +this occasion what we offered them was merely a piece of meat, and most +ravenously did they rush, turn on their backs, and swallow it, only to +find that they were securely hooked, and could not bite through the +chains that were fast to the hooks--in fact, that it was all up with +them. Orders had been given by the commanding officer that the sharks +were not to be pulled on board, partly from the dangerous action of +their tails and jaws even when half dead, partly on account of the +confusion they make while floundering about the decks; so we hauled them +close to the top of the water, fired a bullet into their brains and cut +them loose. We killed thirty that morning in this way, some of them +eight to ten feet long. + +The most horrid thing I know is to see, as I have done on more than one +occasion, a man taken by a shark. You hear a fearful scream as the poor +wretch is dragged down, and nothing remains to tell the dreadful tale +excepting that the water is deeply tinged with blood on the spot where +the unfortunate man disappeared. These ravenous man-eaters scent blood +from an enormous distance, and their prominent upper fin, which is +generally out of the water as they go along at a tremendous pace, may be +seen at a great distance, and they can swim at the rate of a mile a +minute. A shark somewhat reminds me of the torpedo of the present day, +and in my humble opinion is much more dangerous. + +Once we caught a large shark. On opening him we found in his inside a +watch and chain quite perfect. Could it have been that some poor wretch +had been swallowed and digested, and the watch only remained as being +indigestible? + +It is strange to see the contempt with which the black man treats a +shark, the more especially when he has to do with him in shallow water. +A negro takes a large knife and diving under the shark cuts its bowels +open. If the water is deep the shark can go lower down than the man and +so save himself, and if the nigger don't take care he will eat him; thus +the black man never goes into deep water if he can help it, for he is +always expecting a shark. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +SLAVER HUNTING. + + +Shortly after the duel at Rio I went to England, but to be again +immediately appointed to a vessel on the Brazilian station. + +It was at the time when philanthropists of Europe were crying aloud for +the abolition of the African slave trade, never taking for a moment into +consideration the fact that the state of the savage African black +population was infinitely bettered by their being conveyed out of the +misery and barbarism of their own country, introduced to civilization, +given opportunities of embracing religion, and taught that to kill and +eat each other was not to be considered as the principal pastime among +human beings. + +At the period I allude to (from 1841 to 1845) the slave trade was +carried out on a large scale between the coast of Africa and South +America; and a most lucrative trade it was, if the poor devils of +negroes could be safely conveyed alive from one coast to the other. I +say if, because the risk of capture was so great that the poor wretches, +men, women, and children, were packed like herrings in the holds of the +fast little sailing vessels employed, and to such a fearful extent was +this packing carried on that, even if the vessels were not captured, +more than half the number of blacks embarked died from suffocation or +disease before arriving at their destination, yet that half was +sufficient to pay handsomely those engaged in the trade. + +On this point I propose giving examples and proofs hereafter, merely +remarking, _en passant_, that had the negroes been brought over in +vessels that were not liable to be chased and captured, the owners of +such vessels would naturally, considering the great value of their +cargo, have taken precautions against overcrowding and disease. Now, let +us inquire as to the origin of these poor wretched Africans becoming +slaves, and of their being sold to the white man. It was, briefly +speaking, in this wise. On a war taking place between two tribes in +Africa, a thing of daily occurrence, naturally many prisoners were made +on both sides. Of these prisoners those who were not tender enough to be +made into ragout were taken down to the sea-coast and sold to the +slave-dealers, who had wooden barracks established ready for their +reception. + +Into these barracks, men, women, and children, most of whom were kept in +irons to prevent escape, were bundled like cattle, there to await +embarkation on board the vessels that would convey them across the sea. + +Now, as the coast was closely watched on the African side, to prevent +the embarkation of slaves, as it was on the Brazilian side, to prevent +their being landed, the poor wretches were frequently waiting for weeks +on the seashore undergoing every species of torment. + +At last the vessel to carry off a portion of them arrived, when they +were rushed on board and thrown into the hold regardless of sex, like +bags of sand, and the slaver started on her voyage for the Brazils. +Perhaps while on her way she was chased by an English cruiser, in which +case, so it has often been known to happen, a part of the living cargo +would be thrown overboard, trusting that the horror of leaving human +beings to be drowned would compel the officers of the English cruiser to +slacken their speed while picking the poor wretches up, and thus give +the slaver a better chance of escape. (This I have seen done myself, +fortunately unavailingly.) + +I will now ask the reader to bring his thoughts back to the coast of +Brazil, where a good look-out was being kept for such vessels as I have +mentioned as leaving the African coast with live cargo on board bound +for the Brazilian waters. Rio de Janeiro, the capital of Brazil, was the +headquarters of the principal slave-owners. It was there that all +arrangements were made regarding the traffic in slaves, the despatch of +the vessels in which they were to be conveyed, the points on which they +were to land, &c., and it was at Rio that the slave-vessels made their +rendezvous before and after their voyages. It was there also that the +spies on whose information we acted were to be found, and double-faced +scoundrels they were, often giving information which caused the capture +of a small vessel with few slaves on board, while the larger vessel, +with twice the number, was landing her cargo unmolested. + +As for myself, I was at the time of life when enterprise was necessary +for my existence, and so keenly did I join in the slave-hunting mania +that I found it dangerous to land in the town of Rio for fear of +assassination. + +My captain, seeing how enthusiastic I was in the cause, which promised +prize-money if not renown, encouraged me by placing me in a position +that, as a humble midshipman, I was scarcely entitled to, gave me his +confidence, and thus made me still more zealous to do something, if only +to show my gratitude. + +Having picked up all the information possible as regarded the movements +of the slave vessels, we started on a cruise, our minds set particularly +on the capture of a celebrated craft called the 'Lightning,' a vessel +renowned for her great success as a slave ship, whose captain declared +(this made our mission still more exciting) that he would show fight, +especially if attacked by English men-of-war boats when away from the +protection of their ships. + +I must mention that it was the custom of the cruisers on the coast of +Brazil to send their boats on detached service, they (the boats) going +in one direction while the vessels they belonged to went in another, +only communicating every two or three days. Proud indeed for me was the +moment when, arriving near to the spot on the coast where the +'Lightning' was daily expected with her live cargo, I left my ship in +command of three boats, viz., a ten-oared cutter and two four-oared +whale boats. I had with me in all nineteen men, well armed and prepared, +as I imagined, for every emergency. The night we left our ship we +anchored late under the shelter of a small island, and all hands being +tired from a long row in a hot sun, I let my men go to sleep during the +short tropical darkness. As soon as the day was breaking all hands were +alert, and we saw with delight a beautiful rakish-looking brig, crammed +with slaves, close to the island behind which we had taken shelter, +steering for a creek on the mainland a short distance from us. I ought +to mention that the island in question was within four miles of this +creek. We immediately prepared for action, and while serving out to each +man his store of cartridges, I found to my horror that the percussion +tubes and caps for the boat's gun, the muskets and pistols, had been +left on board the ship. What was to be done? no use swearing at anybody. +However, we pulled boldly out from under the shelter of the island, +thinking to intimidate the slaver into heaving to. In this we were +grievously mistaken. + +The vessel with her men standing ready at their guns seemed to put on a +defiant air as she sailed majestically past us, and although we managed +with lucifer matches to fire the boat's gun once or twice, she treated +us with sublime contempt and went on her way into the creek, at the rate +of six or seven miles an hour. Though difficult to attack the vessel in +the day time without firearms, I determined if possible not to lose +altogether this splendid brig. I waited therefore till after sunset, +and then pulled silently into the creek with muffled oars. There was our +friend securely lashed to the rocks. We dashed on board with drawn +cutlasses, anticipating an obstinate resistance. We got possession of +the deck in no time, but on looking round for someone to fight with, saw +nothing but a small black boy who, having been roused up from a sort of +dog-kennel in which he had been sleeping, first looked astonished and +then burst out laughing, pointing as he did so to the shore. Yes, the +shore to which the slaver brig was lashed was the spot where seven +hundred slaves (or nearly that number, for we found three or four +half-dead negroes in the hold) and the crew had all gone, and left us +lamenting our bad luck. However, I took possession of the vessel as she +lay, and though threatened day and night by the natives, who kept up a +constant fire from the neighbouring heights and seemed preparing to +board us, maintained our hold upon the craft until the happy arrival of +my ship, which, with a few rounds of grape, soon cleared the +neighbourhood of our assailants. I may mention that, in the event of our +having been boarded, we had prepared a warm reception for our enemies in +the shape of buckets of boiling oil mixed with lime, which would have +been poured on their devoted heads while in the act of climbing up the +side. As they kept, however, at a respectful distance, our remedy was +not tried. The vessel, a splendid brig of 400 tons, was then pulled off +her rocky bed, and I was sent in charge of her to Rio de Janeiro. And +now comes the strangest part of my adventures on this occasion. + +On the early morning after I had parted company with my commanding +officer, before the dawn, I ran accidentally right into a schooner +loaded with slaves, also coming from Africa, bound to the same place as +had been the brig, my prize. + +Without the slightest hesitation, before the shock and surprise caused +by the collision had given time for reflection or resistance, I took +possession of this vessel, put the crew in irons, and hoisted English +colours. There were 460 Africans on board, and what a sight it was! + +The schooner had been eighty-five days at sea. They were short of water +and provisions; three distinct diseases--namely, small-pox, ophthalmia, +and diarrhoea in its worst form--had broken out while coming across among +the poor doomed wretches. + +On opening the hold we saw a mass of arms, legs, and bodies all crushed +together. Many of the bodies to whom these limbs belonged were dead or +dying. In fact, when we had made some sort of clearance among them we +found in that fearful hold eleven dead bodies lying among the living +freight. Water! water! was the cry. Many of them as soon as free jumped +into the sea, partly from the delirious state they were in, partly +because they had been told that, if taken by the English, they would be +tortured and eaten. The latter I fancy they were accustomed to, but the +former they had a wholesome dread of. + +Can Mrs. Beecher Stowe beat this? It is, I can assure my readers, a very +mild description of what I saw on board the first cargo of slaves I made +the acquaintance of, and by which I was so deeply impressed, that I have +ever since been sceptical of the benefits conferred upon the African +race by our blockade--at all events, of the means employed to abolish +slavery. + +The strangest thing amid this 'confusion of horrors' was that children +were constantly being born. In fact, just after I got on board, an +unfortunate creature was delivered of a child close to where I was +standing, and jumped into the sea, baby and all, immediately afterwards. +She was saved with much difficulty; the more so, as she seemed to +particularly object to being rescued from what nearly proved a watery +grave. + +After this unusual stroke of good luck, sending a prize crew on board +my new capture, and allowing the slaver's crew to escape in the +schooner's boat, as I considered these lawless ruffians an impediment to +my movements, I proceeded on my voyage, and arrived safely in Rio +harbour with my two prizes. + +There I handed my live cargo over to the English authorities, who had a +special large and roomy vessel lying in the harbour for the reception of +the now free niggers. + +It would be as well perhaps to state what became of the freed blacks. +First of all they were cleaned, clothed (after a fashion), and fed; then +they were sent to an English colony, such for example as Demerara, where +they had to serve seven years as apprentices (something, I must admit, +very like slavery), after which they were free for ever and all. I fear +they generally used their freedom in a way that made them a public +nuisance wherever they were. However, they were free, and that satisfied +the philanthropists. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +SLAVER HUNTING (_continued_). + + +Now to return to my 'experiences.' As proud as the young sportsman when +he has killed his first stag, I returned, keen as mustard, to my ship, +which I found still cruising near to where I had left her. Some secret +information that I had received while at Rio led me to ask my captain to +again send me away with a force similar to that which I had under me +before (with percussion caps this time), and allow me to station myself +some fifty miles further down the coast. My request was granted, and +away I went. This time, instead of taking shelter under an island, I +ensconced my little force behind a point of land which enabled me by +mounting on the rocks to sweep the horizon with a spy-glass, so that I +could discover any vessel approaching the land while she was yet at a +considerable distance. + +There happened to be a large coffee plantation in my immediate +neighbourhood, and I remarked that the inhabitants favoured us with the +darkest of scowls whenever we met them. This made me believe (and I +wasn't far out) that the slave-vessel I was looking out for was bringing +recruits to the already numerous slaves employed on the said plantation. +Two or three mornings after my arrival, I discovered a sail on the very +far horizon; a vessel evidently bound to the immediate neighbourhood I +had chosen as my look-out place. The winds were baffling and light, as +usual in the morning in these latitudes, where, however, there is always +a sea-breeze in the afternoon. So, being in no hurry, I sauntered about +the shore with my double-barrelled gun in my hand, occasionally taking a +look seaward. Suddenly I saw within a hundred yards of me a man leading +two enormous dogs in a leash. The dogs were of a breed well known among +slave-owners, as they were trained to run down runaway slaves. I believe +the land of their origin is Cuba, as they are called Cuba bloodhounds. + +Suspecting nothing I continued my lounge, turning my back on the man and +his dogs. A few minutes afterwards I was startled by a rushing sound +behind me. On turning quickly round I saw to my horror two huge dogs +galloping straight at me. Quick as lightning I stood on the defensive, +and when they with open mouths and bloodshot eyes were within five +yards, I pulled the trigger. The gun missed fire with the first barrel. +The second barrel luckily went off, scattering the brains of the nearest +dog, the whole charge having entered his mouth, and gone through the +palate into his brain. This occurrence seemed to check the advance of +the second brute, who, while hesitating for a moment before coming at +me, received a ball in his side from one of my sailors, who fortunately +had observed what was going on and had come to my rescue. Without +waiting an instant to see what had become of the man who had played me +this murderous trick, I called my men together, launched the boats, and +put out to sea. + +By this time the sea-breeze had set in, and I could see the vessel I had +been watching, though still a considerable distance from the shore, was +trimming her sails to the sea-breeze, and steering straight in for the +very spot where I had been concealed. Signal after signal was made to +her by her friends on the shore, in the shape of lighted fires (not much +avail in the daytime) and the hoisting of flags, &c., but she seemed +utterly to disregard the action of her friends. Satisfied, I imagine, +that she had all but finished her voyage, seeing no cruiser and +unsuspicious of boats, on she came.[1] + +We got almost alongside of her before the people on board seemed to see +us. When she did, evidently taken by surprise, she put her helm down, +and throwing all her sails aback, snapped some of her lighter spars, +thus throwing everything into confusion--confusion made worse by the +fact that, with the view of immediate landing, two hundred or three +hundred of the niggers had been freed from their confinement and were +crowded on the deck. Taking advantage of this state of things we made +our capture without a shot being fired. + +In fact everything was done, as sailors say, 'before you could look +round you,' the man at the helm replaced by one of my men, the crew +bundled down into the slave-hold to give them a taste of its horrors, +and the sails trimmed for seaward instead of towards the land. The +captain, who seemed a decent fellow, cried like a child. He said: 'If I +had seen you five minutes before you would never have taken me. Now I am +ruined.' I consoled him as well as I could and treated him well, as he +really seemed half a gentleman, if not entirely one. I found about six +hundred slaves, men and women and children, on board this vessel, who as +they had made a very rapid and prosperous voyage, were in a somewhat +better state than those on board the last capture. Still goodness knows +their state was disgusting enough. Ophthalmia had got a terrible hold of +the poor wretches. In many of the cases the patient was stone blind. I +caught this painful disease myself, and for several days couldn't see a +yard. + +Shortly after, having despatched our prize into Rio in charge of a +brother midshipman, we were joined by another man-of-war cruiser, which +had been sent to assist us in our work. As the officer in command of +this vessel was of senior rank to my commander, he naturally took upon +himself to organise another boat expedition, placing one of his own +officers in command. With this expedition I was allowed to go, taking +with me my old boats and their crews, with orders to place myself under +the direction of Lieutenant A.C., the officer chosen by the senior in +command. + +So we started with five boats provisioned and otherwise prepared for a +cruise of twenty days. The lieutenant in charge did not think it wise to +land, as a bad feeling towards us was known to exist among the +inhabitants, who were all more or less slave-dealers, or interested in +the success of the slave-vessels, so we had to live in our boats. Rather +hard lines, sleeping on the boat's thwarts, &c. Still we had that 'balm +of Gilead,' hope, to keep us alive, and our good spirits. Many a longing +eye did I cast to the shore, where, in spite of the bloodhounds, I +should like to have stretched my cramped limbs. Ten or twelve days +passed in dodging about, doing nothing but keeping a good look-out, and +we almost began to despair, when one fine morning we saw a large brig, +evidently a slaver, running in towards the shore with a fresh breeze. +Our boats were painted like fishing boats, and our men disguised as +fishermen, as usual; so, apparently occupied with our pretended +business, we gradually approached the slave-vessel. My orders were +strictly to follow the movements or action of my superior. Then I +witnessed a gallant act, such as I have not seen surpassed during forty +years of active service that I have gone through since that time. +Lieutenant A.C., who was in the leading boat, a large twelve-oared +cutter, edged pretty near to the advancing vessel, and when quite close +under her bows one man seemed to me to spring like a chamois on board. I +saw the boat from which the man jumped make an ineffectual attempt to +get alongside the vessel, that was going at the rate of six miles an +hour, and then drop astern. I heard a pistol shot, and suddenly the +vessel was thrown up in the wind with all her sails aback, thus entirely +stopping her way (sailors will understand this). Not knowing precisely +what had happened, we pulled like maniacs alongside of the slaver. To do +this was, now that the vessel's way was stopped, comparatively easy. We +dashed on board, and after a slight resistance on the part of the +slaver's crew, in which two or three more men, myself among the number, +were wounded, we took possession of the brig. There we found our +lieutenant standing calmly at the helm, which was a long wooden tiller. +He it was who had jumped on board alone, shot the man at the helm, put +the said helm down with his leg, while in his hand he held his other +pistol, with which he threatened to shoot any one who dared to touch +him. + +I fancy that his cool pluck had caused a panic among the undisciplined +crew, a panic that our rapid approach tended much to increase. What +astonished me was that nobody on board thought of shooting him before he +got to the helm, in which case we never could have got on board the +vessel, considering the speed she was going through the water. What he +did was a glorious piece of pluck, that in these days would have been +rewarded with the Victoria Cross as the least recompense they could have +given to so gallant an officer. Poor fellow! all the reward he got, +beyond the intense admiration of those who saw him, was a bad attack of +small-pox from the diseased _animals_ (there is no other name for +negroes in the state they were in) on board the slave-vessel, which +somewhat injured the face of one of the handsomest men I ever saw. He is +now an admiral, has done many gallant acts since then, but none could +beat what he did on that memorable morning. + +I have said that I was among those who were wounded on this occasion. +What my friend A.C. did so far outshone anything that I had +accomplished, that it is hardly worth while speaking of my share in the +fray. However, as I am writing sketches from my life, I will not omit to +describe the way in which I was wounded. We were, as I have said, making +a rush to assist our gallant leader, who was alone on board the slaver. +The reader will have seen that our business was boarding and fighting +our enemy hand to hand. As I was making a jump on board I saw the white +of the eye of a great black man turned on me; he brandished a huge axe, +which I had a sort of presentiment was intended for me. I sprang as it +were straight at my destiny, for as I grasped the gunnel down came the +axe, and I received the full edge of the beastly thing across the back +of my hand. I fell into the water, but was picked up by my sailors, and +managed to get on board again. Had it not been for a clever young +assistant surgeon, who bound up the wound in a most scientific manner, I +should probably have quite lost the use of my hand; the mark remains +across my knuckles to this day. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +LOVE AND MURDER. + + +I was once sent from Rio to Demerara, an English colony on the coast of +Brazil, with a cargo of blacks that we had freed. Then it was that I had +a good opportunity of studying the character of these people certainly +in their primitive state, and if ever men and women resembled wild +animals it was my swarthy charges. When I arrived at Demerara I handed +them over to their new masters, to whom they were apprenticed for seven +years, and from all I can understand they were, during their +apprenticeship, treated pretty much as slaves in every respect. + +During the time I visited Demerara (and I fancy it is very slightly +changed now) it was one of the vilest holes in creation. It is built on +a low sandy point of land at the entrance of a great river, and is +almost the hottest place on the earth. Mosquitos in thousands of +millions; nothing for the natives to do but to cultivate sugar-canes +and to perspire. There were two crack regiments quartered at Demerara, +who, having to withstand the dreadful monotony of doing nothing, took I +fear to living rather too well; the consequence was that many a fine +fellow had been carried off by yellow fever. For my part, I took a +rather high flight in the way of pastime by falling (as I imagined) +desperately in love with the governor's daughter. The governor, I must +tell my readers, was a very great swell, a general, a K.C.B., &c., and +his daughter was a mighty pretty girl, much run after by the garrison; +so it was thought great impertinence on my part, as a humble +sub-lieutenant, to presume to make love to the reigning, if not the +only, beauty in the place. + +However, audacity carried me on, and I soon became No. 1 in the young +lady's estimation. I used to ride with her, spent the evenings in the +balcony of Government House with her, sent her flowers every morning, +and so on, till at last people began to talk, and steps were taken by +her numerous admirers to stop my wild career. This was done in a +somewhat startling way (premeditated, as I found out afterwards). One +evening I was playing at whist, one of my opponents being a momentarily +discarded lover of my young lady; I thought he was looking very +distrait; however, things went off quietly enough for some time, till on +some trifling question arising concerning the rules of the game, the +young man suddenly and quite gratuitously insulted me most grossly, +ending his insolent conduct by throwing his cards in my face. This was +more than I could put up with, so I called him out, and the next morning +put a ball into his ankle, which prevented him dancing for a long time +to come. He, being the best dancer in the colony, was rather severely +punished; it seems that he had undertaken to bell the cat, hardly +expecting such unpleasant results. + +On returning home after the hostile meeting I found a much more +formidable adversary in the shape of the governor himself, who was +stamping furiously up and down the verandah of my apartment. He received +me with, 'What the d--- l do you mean, young sir, by making love to my +daughter? you are a mere boy.' (I was twenty and did not relish his +remark.) 'What means have you got?' + +After the old gentleman's steam had gone down a little I replied, +'Really, general, I hardly know how to answer you. Your daughter and I +are very good friends, the place is most detestably dull, there is +nothing to do, and if we amuse ourselves with a little love-making, +surely there can be no great harm.' This rejoinder of mine made things +worse; I thought the old boy would have had a fit. At last he said, 'The +mail steamer leaves for England to-morrow; you shall go home by her, I +order you to do so!' I replied that I should please myself, and that I +was not under his orders. The general went away uttering threats. After +he was gone I thought seriously over the matter. I calculated that my +income of 120_l._ a year would scarcely suffice to keep a wife, and I +decided to renounce my dream of love. I went to pay a farewell visit to +my young lady, but found that she was locked up, so away I went and soon +forgot all about it. Shortly afterwards I heard that the governor's +daughter married the man whose leg I had lamed for his impertinence to +me. + +My last adventure while employed in the suppression of the slave trade +is perhaps worth describing. + +By international law it was ruled that a vessel on her way to Africa, if +fitted out in a certain manner, whereby it was evident that she was +employed in the nefarious traffic of slavery, was liable to capture and +condemnation by the mixed tribunals, or in other words became the lawful +prize of her captors. + +While cruising off Pernambuco we boarded a Portuguese vessel bound to +Africa, so evidently fitted out for the purpose of slave trade that my +captain took possession of her, and sent me to convey her to the Cape +of Good Hope for adjudication. It was the usual thing to send the +captain of a vessel so captured as a prisoner on board his ship, so that +he might be interrogated at the trial. In this case the master and three +of his crew were sent. The prize crew consisted of myself and six men. +Now the captain was an exceedingly gentlemanlike man, a good sailor, and +a first-rate navigator. + +At first I treated him as a prisoner, but by degrees he insinuated +himself into my good graces to such an extent that after a while I +invited him to mess with me, in fact, made a friend of him, little +thinking of the serpent I was nourishing. + +For several days all went well. I was as unsuspicious as a child of foul +play. We lived together and worked our daily navigation together, played +at cards together, in fact were quite chums. The three men who were +supposed to be prisoners were allowed considerable liberty, and as they +had, as I found out afterwards, a private stock of grog stowed away +somewhere, which they occasionally produced and gave to my men, they +managed to be pretty free to do as they wished. For all that, I ordered +that the three prisoners should be confined below during the night. + +As the weather was very hot I always slept in a little place on deck +called a bunk, a thing more like a dog-kennel than aught else I can +compare it to, excepting that the hole for entrance and exit was +somewhat larger than that generally used for the canine species. + +I always slept with a pistol (revolvers were unknown in those days) +under my pillow. Luckily for me that I did so, as the result will show. + +I had remarked (this I thought of afterwards) that the prisoner captain +and some of his men had been whispering together a good deal lately; but +not being in the slightest degree suspicious I thought nothing of it. + +One evening I retired to my sleeping place as usual, after having passed +a pleasant chatty evening with my prisoner. I was settling myself to +sleep, in fact I think I was asleep as far as it would be called so, for +I had from habit the custom of sleeping with one eye open, when I saw or +_felt_ the flash of a knife over my head. The entrance to my couch was +very limited, so that my would-be murderer had some difficulty in +striking the fatal blow. Instinct at once showed me my danger. + +To draw my pistol from under my pillow was the work of a second; to fire +it into the body of the man who was trying to stab me, that of another. +A groan and a heavy fall on the deck told me what had happened, and +springing out of my sleeping berth I found my ci-devant friend the +captain lying on his face, dead as a door nail. In the meantime I heard +a row in the fore-part of the ship. On going forward I saw one of the +prisoners in the act of falling overboard, and another extended full +length on the deck, while my stalwart quarter-master was flourishing a +handspike with which he had knocked one of his assailants overboard and +floored the other. Now it will be asked what was the man at the wheel +doing? Hereby hangs a tale. He swore that he heard or saw nothing. +Considering this sufficient evidence of his guilt, I put him in irons. +Shortly afterwards he confessed the whole story. It seems that a +conspiracy had been planned among the prisoners to retake the ship--that +the man at the wheel had been bribed to let free two of the prisoners, +under promise of a large reward if the result had been the retaking of +the ship. + +The only provision he made was that he was to take no murderous action +against his countrymen. The man at the helm and the quarter-master being +the only men on deck, and I being gone to roost, all seemed easy enough, +but Providence willed it otherwise. + +I buried the captain in the sea without further ceremony; the man who +fell overboard I suppose was drowned (I did not try to pick him up); the +man knocked down was put in irons, and all went smoothly for the rest of +the voyage; but when I arrived at the Cape of Good Hope without the +captain, the lawyers who defended the ship wanted to make out that I had +murdered him, and I was very nearly sent to prison on the charge of +murder. + +In the above pages I have endeavoured to give some notion of what used +to go on in old times when there were no steam launches, and when, I may +be forgiven for saying it, sailors were in every sense of the word +sailors. + +I could recount many more adventures somewhat similar to those I have +described, but I do not wish to bore my readers or appear egotistical in +their eyes. The only comparison I would make in regard to our doings in +those days is with the work done by the blockading squadron during the +civil war in America; for if ever men required plucky endurance and +self-denial it was the poor fellows who had to keep, or endeavour to +keep, blockade-runners if not slavers from communicating with the stormy +shores of Florida and South Carolina. They are too modest now to tell us +what they went through. Perhaps forty years hence they will do as I am +doing, and recount some of their adventures, which I am convinced would +quite put into the shade anything I or my boat's crew ever did. + +I do not wish to be mistaken in my remarks about the black race. I will +not venture to give an opinion as to what Providence meant to be done +with those interesting creatures. I only assert, and this I do from my +own personal experience, that a black man is a happier and wiser man in +America than he is in his own wretched country, North and South. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +THE QUEEN'S YACHT. + + +I returned from the Cape to England. On arriving there I was appointed +to the Queen's yacht, as a reward for what their lordships at the +Admiralty were good enough to designate my active and zealous services +while employed in suppression of the slave trade. + +To be appointed to Her Majesty's yacht was in those days considered a +very great distinction. Even now the Queen invariably chooses officers +who have seen what is called 'service.' Such an appointment, apart from +the honour of being so near Her Majesty, always tends to rapid +promotion. + +The Queen at the time I write of was very fond of cruising in her yacht, +paying visits to foreign potentates, &c. Her Majesty had been then five +years married, with a young family springing up around her, and her +beloved husband the Prince Consort always with her, participating in +all her pleasures; so we, the officers of the Royal yacht, had a rare +time of it, were made a lot of wherever we went, and thought ourselves +very great men indeed. Amongst other trips, we conveyed the Royal family +up the Rhine, where Her Majesty visited the King of Prussia at +Stolzenfels. + +Afterwards we went to the Chateau d'Eu, where Her Majesty was received +by King Louis Philippe and the Reine Amelie. + +I shall never forget the condescending kindness of Her Majesty and +Prince Albert to all on board the Royal yacht. As to the Prince Consort, +he treated the officers more in the light of companions than +subordinates, always ready to join us in a cigar and its accompanying +friendly conversation. + +Apropos of smoking, I cannot refrain from mentioning a little incident +that happened on board the 'Victoria and Albert,' that I, for one, shall +never forget. Her Gracious Majesty never approved of smoking, and it was +only through the kind consideration of the Prince Consort that we were +allowed to indulge in an occasional cigar in the cow-house. The +cow-house was a little place fitted up for two pretty small Alderney +cows, kept specially for supplying milk and butter for the Royal table. + +Her Majesty was very fond of these animals and had the habit of +visiting them every day, and the young Princes used to be held up to +look in at the window, out of which there was room for the favoured cows +to stretch their heads. One evening we were smoking as usual when I +espied a pot of blue paint on the deck of the cow-house, with, as bad +luck would have it, a brush in the pot. I cannot say what induced me, +but I deliberately took the brush and painted the tips of the noses and +the horns of both animals a pretty light blue. Having done this I +thought no more of the matter. The next morning Her Majesty--well, I +think I had better say no more about it. I, the culprit, was denounced +and had to keep out of the way for a day or two. Then it was that the +good-natured Prince proved himself a friend, and got me out of my +scrape. + +I passed two of the happiest years of my life in the Queen's yacht, +after which I was promoted to the rank of lieutenant, and appointed to a +ship in the Mediterranean, where I passed for several years the usual +humdrum life of a naval officer during times of profound peace. + +However, while serving as a lieutenant in the Mediterranean, I had the +advantage of taking part in one of the most interesting political events +of the century, namely, the flight of Pius IX. from Rome. The ship I +was in was stationed at Civita Vecchia, the sea-port of Rome, partly in +order to protect British interests--that is, the persons and properties +of British subjects--partly with the object of taking that half-hearted +part in religious politics which has always been such a humiliating role +for England. + +We had an accredited agent, a nondescript sort of person, representing +England at the court of Pope Pius IX. This gentleman's duty was to watch +and report, but not to act. It was through him that England's idea of +the policy to be pursued by the Pope was conveyed. We did not, and we +did, want to interfere. The question of the balance of power of Italy as +an independent nation was too important to neglect; it was impossible to +separate altogether religion and politics. However, at the time I write +of things were rushing to a crisis. + +The Pope, who a short time previously had been considered the great +supporter of liberty, was now looked upon as its enemy. Garibaldi was, +in a mad sort of way, fighting in its cause--at least, he professed to +do so. He had marched with a band of howling volunteers to the gates of +Rome, and established himself there as its conqueror, virtually making +the Pope a prisoner in the Vatican. In the meantime France interfered +in the Pope's cause, and sent General Oudinot with a small army to +dislodge Garibaldi. England's doubtful diplomatic relations made it +necessary to choose every sort of means of communicating with the Pope, +and I had the honour on more than one occasion of being the messenger +chosen to communicate, not only with His Holiness, but between Garibaldi +and the French commander. On the first occasion I was sent to Rome with +despatches from Lord Palmerston to be delivered (so said my orders) into +the Pope's own hands. + +On my arrival at Rome I went straight to the Quirinal and asked to see +Cardinal Antonelli. When I informed him of my instructions, he said at +once, 'You may give your despatches to me; you cannot expect to see His +Holiness.' 'No, sir; to the Pope I will give my despatches, or take them +back again,' and from this decision no persuasions or threats would move +me. Finding me obstinate the Cardinal at last took me with him into a +room where the Pope was sitting. His Holiness seemed in a great state of +anxiety, but was most kind and condescending. He gave me his hand to +kiss, and congratulated me on having been so firm in obeying orders in +relation to my despatches. I afterwards found that these despatches +influenced very much the important step taken by Pio Nono a few days +afterwards. + +Subsequently I several times conveyed communications between General +Garibaldi and General Oudinot. The former had most pluckily taken +possession of an important position inside the walls of Rome, and it was +a hard piece of work to dislodge him. + +I used to gallop in between General Oudinot's camp and Garibaldi's +headquarters, having on my arm a red scarf for a sign that I was not a +belligerent. My scarf was not much use, however, as I was generally +fired at all the time that I was passing the space between the French +camp and Garibaldi's headquarters in Rome. + +I was amused by the audacity with which Garibaldi resisted the French +army. I fancy he wanted to delay matters so that the Pope should be +induced to take the ill-advised step of leaving Rome, and in this the +republican general succeeded. What went on in Rome, the way in which the +Pope escaped, &c., I am not able to relate. All I know is that one fine +morning a simple carriage arrived from Rome at Civita Vecchia, bringing +a portly individual enveloped in the large cloak of an English coachman, +and another man in ordinary apparel. They strolled down to the place of +embarkation, and went quietly on board, not (as was expected) the +English man-of-war, but a French vessel-of-war which was lying with her +steam up. + +This vessel then left the harbour, almost unnoticed, and it was not for +hours afterwards that we heard that His Holiness Pius IX. was the +humble-looking person who had embarked before our eyes, and thus got +away safely to Gaeta. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +IN THE BALTIC. + + +In 1854 the war (commonly called the Crimean war) broke out, and I was +appointed first lieutenant of H.M.S.---- for service in the Baltic. + +I shall never forget the excitement among us all when, after so many +years of inactivity, we were called upon to defend the honour of our +country. Unfortunately for old England the Baltic fleet was put under +the command of Sir C. N----, 'fighting old Charley' as he was called, +though it was not long before we discovered that there was not much +fight left in him. It might well be said by those generously inclined +towards him, in the words of the old song, that the + +'Bullets and the gout +Had so knocked his hull about, +That he'd never more be fit for sea.' + +A finer fleet never sailed or steamed from Spithead than that destined +for the Baltic in 1854. The signal from its commander, 'Lads, war is +declared! Sharpen your cutlasses and the day's your own,' sent a thrill +of joy through every breast. After following the melting ice up the +Baltic Sea to within almost reach of the guns of Cronstadt, we waited +till the ice had disappeared, and then went in as we thought for the +attack. + +The ship to which I belonged being a steamer, and drawing much less +water than the line-of-battle ships, led the way. A grander sight could +not be conceived than that of twenty splendid line-of-battle ships, +formed in two lines, steaming straight up to the frowning batteries of +Cronstadt. On our approaching the batteries a shot was fired, and fell +alongside the ship I was in, which, as I said, was leading for the +purpose of sounding, when, to our astonishment and disgust, the signal +was made from the flag-ship to the fleet 'Stop!' and immediately +afterwards to 'anchor.' + +It is not for me to say the reason 'why.' All that I can vouch for is +that, in the general opinion of competent judges, had we gone on we +could have taken or destroyed Cronstadt, instead of which--what was +done? They sent to England for special boats to be made ready for the +next summer, when the attack would be made on Cronstadt. + +We remained a few days at anchor off that place, when some half of the +fleet were detached to the Aland Islands, where an insignificant fort +called Bomarsund was to be attacked--not by the English and French +fleets, who were fit to do any mortal thing, but by an army fetched from +France. When the army came, the poor little fort attacked by the fleet +on the seaside, and on the shore by the soldiers, after firing a few +shots surrendered. During the attack I was appointed acting commander of +H.M.S.----, and was mentioned honourably in despatches. + +Many promotions were made for the taking of Bomarsund, but I fancy I had +as usual given my opinion too freely, as I was left out in the cold. I +shall never forget old Charley's answer to me when I applied for my +promotion, it was so worthy of him. He said, 'Don't ye come crying to +me, Sir; you are a lord's son: I'll have nothing to do wi' ye.' + +Immediately after the capture of Bomarsund, the admiral detached a small +squadron under Captain S---- to reconnoitre the Russian port of Abo. Of +that squadron the vessel of which I was commander formed one. We left +with sealed orders, which were not to be opened until we arrived at, or +near to, our destination. + +On sighting the enemy's port we perceived that every preparation was +being made to give us a warm reception. A council of war was held on +board the senior officer's ship, at which council the sealed orders were +opened, when to our disgust it was found within that we were ordered +'not to fight, merely to reconnoitre.' + +Sickening humiliation! There were the Russian gunboats inside the bar of +the harbour of Abo, firing at us with all their might. The forts on the +heights, such as they were, very insignificant temporary batteries of +field-pieces, had commenced to get the range of the ships; but as we +were not to fight, we took a sulky shot or two at the enemy and retired. + +To this day I cannot understand the policy that actuated this weak, +vacillating conduct on the part of our chief. But some idea may be given +of his fighting notions by the following occurrence, of which I was a +witness. + +One morning despatches arrived from England. A signal was made from the +flag-ship for commanding officers to repair on board that vessel. On our +arrival there, we were asked to sit down to breakfast. Our chief, who +was opening his letters, suddenly threw a despatch over the table to +S----, the admiral of the fleet, saying, 'What would ye do, mun, if ye +received a letter like this?' S----, after reading the letter said, 'If +I received a letter like that, I'd attack Revel or Sveaborg if I lost +half my fleet.' Our chief's answer I shall never forget. It was: 'I +haven't got nerve to do it, and I'm d----d well sure C---- hasn't.' +There are many living besides myself who can vouch for the accuracy of +this statement. + +I shall say no more of the doings of the English fleet in the Baltic +during that year. Suffice it, that if ever open mutiny was +displayed--not by the crews of the ships, but by many of the captains, +men who attained the highest rank in their profession--it was during the +cruise in the Baltic in 1854: and no wonder. + +Many gallant deeds were performed by single ships, but the fleet did +absolutely nothing, except help to capture Bomarsund. I returned to +England disgusted and disheartened. The next year the commander-in-chief +was changed; I was appointed to his ship, and we went again to the +Baltic, taking with us all the necessary appurtenances for bombarding +forts and attacking the enemy's coast. + +As soon as the melting of the ice permitted we arrived off Cronstadt, +and found that the Russians had not been asleep during our absence for +the winter months; for they had defended the approaches to that place +to such an extent, that an attack was considered (and on this occasion +there was no difference of opinion) most unadvisable. So we fell back on +Sveaborg, which place was bombarded by the combined fleets, I venture to +think most successfully, and I believe, had we had a force to land, we +could have taken possession of that large and important fortress. + +Our losses during the operation were small on board the squadron of +mortar-boats which I had the good luck to command--some fifty-eight men +_hors de combat_. + +In this service I received my promotion to the rank of commander, and +returned to England. + +Peace was made between Russia and England, previous to which, however, I +was appointed to a vessel in the Mediterranean which formed part of the +fleet off Sebastopol. Unfortunately, I arrived too late to see much +active service there. + +While serving as a commander in the Mediterranean, I was principally +under the command of Sir Wm. M----, a man whose reputation as being the +smartest officer in the navy, I must venture to say, I think was greatly +exaggerated, though he was doubtless what is called a 'smart officer.' + +His idea was to rule with a rod of iron, and never to encourage anyone +by praising zealous and active service. He used to say, 'I am here to +find fault with, not to praise, officers under my command.' So many a +fine fellow's zeal was damped by knowing that no encouragement would +follow in the way of appreciation from his chief, however much he might +have merited it. + +I cannot refrain from recounting a very amusing incident that occurred +in connection with my command of H.M.S. _F---- _. I may mention that, +differing as I did most materially with the system of discipline +followed by the commander-in-chief, I was no favourite of his. + +One day, however, I was somewhat surprised at being ordered to prepare +for the official inspection of my ship, and by no less a person than Sir +W. M----himself. I must mention that one of the crotchets of the chief +was that vessels such as mine--namely, a gunboat of the first +class--could be floated off the shore, in case of their stranding, by +water-casks being lashed round them. So orders were given that all +vessels of that class were to lumber their decks with water-casks. I did +so, according to orders; but, not having the least confidence in the +manner in which the commander-in-chief proposed to employ them, I +utilised them, as will be seen presently, for an entirely different +purpose. + +The day of my ship's inspection was evidently not one of my lucky days. +To begin with, a horrid little monkey belonging to the crew--amusing +himself running about in the hammock-nettings near to the gangway over +which the great man had to pass--seeing something he thought unusual, +made a rush as the commander-in-chief was stepping on board, stooped +down, and deliberately took the cocked hat off his head, dropped it into +the sea, then started up the rigging chattering with delight at the +mischief he had done. The cocked hat was at once recovered, wiped dry, +and placed in its proper place. The admiral, always stern as a matter of +principle, looked, after this incident, sterner than usual, hardly +recognised me except by a formal bow, then proceeded to muster the +officers and crew. This over, he commenced to walk round the deck. I +remarked with pleasure his countenance change when he saw how neatly his +pet water-casks were painted and lashed to the inner gunnel of the ship. +He said quite graciously, 'I am glad to see, Captain Hobart, that you +pay such attention to my orders.' I began to think I was mistaken in my +idea of the man; but, alas! for my exuberance of spirits and +satisfaction. While the admiral was closely examining one of his pet +casks, his face came almost in contact with the opening of the barrel, +when, to his and my horror, a pretty little spaniel put out his head and +licked the great man on the nose. + +I shall never forget the admiral's countenance; he turned blue with +anger, drew himself up, ordered his boat to be manned, and walked over +the side not saying a word to anyone. + +The facts which led to this untoward occurrence were that, seeing the +necessity of having my decks crowded with what I considered useless +lumber, in the form of water-casks, I had utilised them by making them +into dog-kennels. The admiral hated dogs, hated sport of all kind, and, +after what occurred, I fancy hated me. Well, I didn't love him; I never +saw him again. + +The very next day I was ordered to the coast of Syria: just what I +wanted, i.e., to be out of the commander-in-chief's way, and to have +some good shooting. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +BLOCKADE-RUNNING. + + +On receiving my rank as post-captain, I found myself shelved, as it +were, for four years, while waiting my turn for a command. This was +according to the rules of the navy, so there was no getting out of it. +What was I to do? I consulted several of my friends who were in a +similar position, who, like myself, did not wish to remain idle so long, +so we looked about us for some enterprise, as something to do. + +The upshot of it was that we thought of trying if we could not conceive +some plan for breaking through the much-talked-of blockade of the +Southern States of America, then in revolt against the government of +Washington. Four of us young post-captains took this decision, and as it +would have been, perhaps, considered _infra dig._ for real naval +officers to engage in such an enterprise, we lent our minds, if not our +bodies, to certain _alter egos_, whom we inspired, if we did not +personally control, as to their line of conduct. My man I will call +Roberts, whose adventures I now give, and in whose name I shall write. +There are people who insist that I was Captain Roberts; all that such +people have to do is to prove I was that 'miscreant,' whoever he may +have been. The following is his narrative:-- + +During the late civil war in America the executive government undertook +the blockade of more than 3,000 miles of coast, and though nothing could +exceed the energy and activity of the naval officers so employed, the +results were very unsatisfactory, inasmuch as it was not till absolute +possession was taken of the forts at the entrance of the great harbours, +such as Charleston, Mobile, and Wilmington, that blockade-running was +stopped. + +I trust that our American friends will not be too severe in their +censures on those engaged in blockade-running; for, I say it with the +greatest respect for and admiration of enterprise, had they been +lookers-on instead of principals in the sad drama that was enacted, they +would have been the very men to take the lead. It must be borne in mind +that the excitement of fighting did not exist. One was always either +running away or being deliberately pitched into by the broadsides of the +American cruisers, the slightest resistance to which would have +constituted piracy; whereas capture without resistance merely entailed +confiscation of cargo and vessel. + +The vessel I had charge of--which I had brought out from England, was +one of the finest double-screw steamers that had ever been built by +D----n; of 400 tons burden, 250 horse-power, 180 feet long, and 22 feet +beam--and was, so far as sea-going qualities, speed, &c., went, as handy +a little craft as ever floated. Our crew consisted of a captain, three +officers, three engineers, and twenty-eight men, including firemen, that +is, ten seamen and eighteen firemen. They were all Englishmen, and as +they received very high wages, we managed to have picked men. In fact, +the men-of-war on the West India station found it a difficult matter to +prevent their crews from deserting, so great was the temptation offered +by the blockade-runners. + +I will begin by explaining how we prepared the vessel for the work. This +was done by reducing her spars to a light pair of lower masts, without +any yards across them; the only break in their sharp outline being a +small crow's-nest on the foremast, to be used as a look-out place. The +hull, which showed about eight feet above water, was painted a dull grey +colour to render her as nearly as possible invisible in the night. The +boats were lowered square with the gunnels. Coal was taken on board of a +smokeless nature (anthracite). The funnel, being what is called +'telescope,' lowered close down to the deck. In order that no noise +might be made, steam was blown off under water. In fact, every ruse was +resorted to to enable the vessel to evade the vigilance of the American +cruisers, who were scattered about in great numbers all the way between +Bermuda and Wilmington--the port at the time I write of most frequented +by blockade-runners. While speaking of the precautions used I may +mention that among the fowls taken on board as provisions, no cocks were +allowed, for fear of their proclaiming the whereabouts of the +blockade-runner. This may seem ridiculous, but it was very necessary. + +The distance from Bermuda to Wilmington (the port we were bound to) is +720 miles. We started in the evening. For the first twenty-four hours we +saw nothing to alarm us, but at daylight the second day there was a +large American cruiser not half a mile from us, right ahead, who, before +we could turn round, steamed straight at us, and commenced firing +rapidly, but very much at random, the shot and shell all passing over or +wide of us. + +Fortunately, according to orders to have full steam on at daybreak, we +were quite prepared for a run; and still more fortunately a heavy squall +of wind and rain that came on helped us vastly, as we were dead to +windward of the enemy; and having no top-weights we soon dropped him +astern. He most foolishly kept yawing, to fire his bow-chasers, losing +ground every time he did so. By eight o'clock we were out of +range--unhit; and by noon out of sight of anything but smoke. + +Luckily, the chase had not taken us much off our course, as the +consumption of coal during a run of this sort, with boilers all but +bursting from high pressure of steam, was a most serious +consideration--there being no coal in the Confederate ports, where wood +was only used, which would not suit our furnaces. + +We were now evidently in very dangerous waters, steamers being reported +from our mast-head every hour, and we had to keep moving about in all +directions to avoid them; sometimes stopping to let one pass ahead of +us, at another time turning completely round, and running back on our +course. Luckily, we were never seen or chased. Night came on, and I had +hoped that we should have made rapid progress till daybreak unmolested. +All was quiet until about one o'clock in the morning, when suddenly, to +our dismay, we found a steamer close alongside of us. How she had got +there without our knowledge is a mystery to me even now. However, there +she was, and we had hardly seen her before a stentorian voice howled +out, 'Heave-to in that steamer, or I'll sink you.' It seemed as if all +was over, but I determined to try a ruse before giving the little craft +up. So I answered, 'Ay, ay, sir, we are stopped.' The cruiser was about +eighty yards from us. We heard orders given to man and arm the +quarter-boats, we saw the boats lowered into the water, we saw them +coming, we heard the crews laughing and cheering at the prospect of +their prize. The bowmen had just touched the sides of our vessel with +their boat-hooks when I whispered down the tube into the engine-room, +'Full speed ahead!' and away we shot into the darkness. + +I don't know what happened; whether the captain of the man-of-war +thought that his boats had taken possession, and thus did not try to +stop us, or whether he stopped to pick up his boats in the rather nasty +sea that was running, some one who reads this may know. All I can say +is, that not a shot was fired, and that in less than a minute the pitch +darkness hid the cruiser from our view. This was a great piece of luck. + +All the next day we passed in dodging about, avoiding the cruisers as +best we could, but always approaching our post. + +During the day we got good observations with which our soundings agreed; +and at sunset our position was sixty miles due east of the entrance to +Wilmington river, off which place were cruising a strong squadron of +blockading ships. The American blockading squadron, which had undertaken +the almost impossible task of stopping all traffic along 3,000 miles of +coast, consisted of nearly a hundred vessels of different sorts and +sizes--_bona-fide_ men-of-war, captured blockade-runners, unemployed +steam-packets, with many other vessels pressed into government service. +Speed and sufficient strength to carry a long gun were the only +requisites, the Confederate men-of-war being few and far between. These +vessels were generally well commanded and officered, but badly manned. +The inshore squadron off Wilmington consisted of about thirty vessels, +and lay in the form of a crescent facing the entrance to Cape Clear +river, the centre being just out of range of the heavy guns mounted on +Fort Fisher, the horns, as it were, gradually approaching the shore on +each side; the whole line or curve covered about ten miles. + +The blockade-runners had been in the habit of trying to get between the +vessel at either extremity; and the coast being quite flat and +dangerous, without any landmark, excepting here and there a tree +somewhat taller than others, the cruisers generally kept at a sufficient +distance to allow of this being done. The runner would then crawl close +along the shore, and when as near as could be judged opposite the +entrance of the river, would show a light on the vessel's inshore side, +which was answered by a very indistinct light being shown on the beach, +close to the water's edge, and another at the background. These two +lights being got into a line was a proof that the opening was arrived +at; the vessels then steered straight in and anchored under the +Confederate batteries at Fort Fisher. More vessels were lost crawling +along this dangerous beach than were taken by the cruisers. I have seen +three burning at one time, for the moment a vessel struck she was set +fire to, to prevent the blockaders getting her off when daylight came. + +This system of evading the cruisers, however, having been discovered, it +was put a stop to by a very ingenious method, by which several vessels +were captured and an end put to that little game. Of course I can only +conjecture the way in which it was done, but it seemed to me to be +thus: At the extreme end of the line of blockaders lay one of them with +a kedge anchor, down so close to the shore that she left but a very +little space for the blockade-runner to pass between her and the beach. +The captain of the runner, however, trusting to his vessel's speed and +invisibility, dashed through this space, and having got by the cruiser +thought himself safe. Poor fellow! he was safe for a moment, but in such +a trap that his only chance of getting out of it was by running on shore +or giving up. For no sooner had he passed than up went a rocket from the +cruiser who had seen the runner rush by, and who now moved a little +further in towards the shore, so as to stop her egress by the way she +went in; and the other vessels closing round by a pre-arranged plan, the +capture or destruction of the blockade-runner was a certainty. + +Some of the captains most pluckily ran their vessels on shore, and +frequently succeeded in setting fire to them; but the boats of the +cruisers were sometimes too sharp in their movements to admit of this +being done, and the treatment of those who tried to destroy their +vessels was, I am sorry to say, very barbarous and unnecessary. +Moreover, men who endeavoured to escape by jumping overboard after the +vessel was on shore were often fired at by grape and shell, in what +seemed to me a very unjustifiable manner. Great allowance, however, must +be made for the men-of-war's men, who after many hard nights of dreary +watching constantly under weigh, saw their well-earned prize escaping by +being run on shore and set fire to, just as they imagined they had got +possession. On several occasions they have been content to tow the empty +shell of an iron vessel off the shore, her valuable cargo having been +destroyed by fire. + +But I have left my little craft lying as was stated about sixty miles +from the entrance of the river. I had determined to try a new method of +getting through the blockading squadron, seeing that the usual plan, as +described above, was no longer feasible or, at least, advisable. I have +mentioned that our position was well defined by observations and +soundings, so we determined to run straight through the blockaders, and +to take our chance. When it was quite dark we started steaming at full +speed. It was extremely thick on the horizon, but clear overhead, with +just enough wind and sea to prevent the little noise the engines and +screws made being heard. Every light was out--even the men's pipes; the +masts were lowered on to the deck; and if ever a vessel was invisible +the _D----n_ was that night. + +We passed several outlying cruisers, some unpleasantly near, but still +we passed them. All seemed going favourably, when suddenly I saw through +my glasses the long low line of a steamer right ahead, lying as it were +across our bows so close that it would have been impossible to pass to +the right or left of her without being seen. A prompt order given to the +engine-room (where the chief engineer stood to the engines) to reverse +one engine, was as promptly obeyed, and the little craft spun round like +a _teetotum_. If I had not seen it, I could never have believed it +possible that a vessel would have turned so rapidly, and (although, +perhaps, it is irrelevant to my subject) I cannot refrain from bearing +testimony to the wonderful powers of turning that are given to a vessel +by the application of Symond's turnscrews, as he loves to call them. On +this occasion L50,000 of property was saved to its owners. I do not +believe the cruiser saw us at all, and so very important to us was the +fact that we had turned in so short a space, that I scarcely think we +lost five yards of our position. Having turned we stopped to +reconnoitre, and could still see the faint outline of the cruiser +crawling (propelled, probably, only by the wind) slowly into the +darkness, leaving the way open to us, of which we at once took +advantage. It was now about one o'clock in the morning; our lead, and +an observation of a friendly star, told us that we were rapidly nearing +the shore. But it was so fearfully dark, that it seemed almost hopeless +ever to find our way to the entrance of the river, and no one felt +comfortable. Still we steamed slowly on and shortly made out a small +glimmer of a light right ahead. We eased steam a little, and cautiously +approached. + +As we got nearer, we could make out the outline of a vessel lying at +anchor, head to wind, and conjectured that this must be the senior +officer's vessel, which we were told generally lay about two miles and a +half from the river's mouth, and which was obliged to show some sort of +light to the cruisers that were constantly under weigh right and left of +her. The plan of finding out this light, and using it as a guide to the +river's entrance, being shortly after this time discovered, the vessel +that carried it was moved into a different position every night, whereby +several blockade-runners came to grief. + +Feeling pretty confident now of our position, we went on again at full +speed, and made out clearly the line of blockaders lying to the right +and left of the ship which showed the light; all excepting her being +apparently under weigh. Seeing an opening between the vessel at anchor +and the one on her left, we made a dash, and, thanks to our disguise and +great speed, got through without being seen, and made the most of our +way towards the land. As a strong current runs close inshore which is +constantly changing its course, and there were no lights or landmarks to +guide us, it was a matter of great difficulty to find the very narrow +entrance to the river. + +We were now nearly out of danger from cruisers, who seldom ventured very +close inshore in the vicinity of the batteries; and our pilot, who had +been throughout the voyage in bodily fear of an American prison, began +to wake up, and, after looking well round, told us that he could make +out, over the long line of surf, a heap of sand called 'the mound,' +which was a mark for going into the river. + +This good news emboldened us to show a small light from the inshore side +of the vessel; it was promptly answered by two lights being placed a +short distance apart on the beach, in such a position that, when the two +were brought into line, or, as the sailors call it, into one, the vessel +would be in the channel which led into the river. This being done +without interruption from the cruisers, we steamed in and anchored +safely under the batteries of Fort Fisher. + +Being now perfectly safe, lights were at once lit, supper and grog +served out _ad libitum_, everybody congratulated everybody, and a +feeling of comfort and jollity, such as can only be experienced after +three nights' and three days' intense anxiety, possessed us all. On the +morning breaking we counted twenty-five cruisers lying as near as they +dared venture off the river's mouth, and a very pleasant sight it was, +situated as we were. There was evidently a move among them of an unusual +kind; for the smaller vessels were steaming in towards the shore on the +north side, and the ships' launches, with guns in their bows, were +pulling about from vessel to vessel. The cause of it as day advanced was +but too apparent. + +Just out of range of Fort Fisher's heavy artillery, on the north side of +the river's entrance, a splendid paddle-wheel blockade-runner was lying +on the beach, having been run on shore during the night to avoid +capture. + +Her crew had evidently escaped to the shore, and a smouldering smoke +showed that she had been set fire to, and that a little wind was all +that was necessary to make the flames break out. The blockading ships do +not appear to have been aware of the damage they had done till daylight +discovered the vessel, that they probably thought had either got into +the river or escaped to sea, lying on the beach. However, they were not +slow in making preparations for capturing her, if possible. + +Meanwhile, two of the crew of the blockade-runner managed to get on +board of her, and setting her on fire in a dozen different places, +everything in the vessel was soon destroyed, and her red-hot sides made +boarding an impossibility. + +So the gunboats retired out of range, and the artillery with the +Whitworth guns returned to Fort Fisher. The shell of this vessel lay for +months on the beach and was by no means a bad mark for the +blockade-runners to steer by. + +Having witnessed this little bit of excitement and received on board the +crew of the stranded vessel, we took a pilot on board and steamed up the +Cape Clear river to Wilmington. + +It will be difficult to erase from my memory the excitement of the +evening we made our little craft fast alongside the quay at Wilmington; +the congratulations we received, the champagne cocktail we imbibed, the +eagerness with which we gave and received news, the many questions we +asked, such as, 'How long shall we be unloading?' 'Was our cargo of +cotton ready?' 'How many bales could we carry?' 'How other +blockade-runners had fared?' &c.; and the visits from thirsty and +hungry Southerners of all ranks and denominations, many of whom had not +tasted alcohol in any form for months, to whom whatever they liked to +eat or drink was freely given, accompanied by congratulations on all +sides. All these things, combined with the delightful feeling of +security from capture, and the glorious prospect of a good night's rest +in a four-poster, wound one up into an inexpressible state of jollity. +If some of us had a little headache in the morning, surely it was small +blame to us. Our host's cocktails, made of champagne bitters and pounded +ice, soon put all things to rights; and after breakfast we lounged down +to the quays on the river-side, which were piled mountains high with +cotton-bales and tobacco tierces, and mixed in the lively and busy scene +of discharging, selling, and shipping cargoes. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +EXCITING ADVENTURES. + + +I may now, I trust, without appearing egotistical, digress slightly from +the narrative to give an account of how I managed with my own private +venture, which I had personally to attend to; for it is scarcely +necessary to mention that in blockade-running everyone must look after +himself. If he does not his labour will have been in vain. + +Before leaving England I had met a Southern lady, who, on my inquiring +as to what was most needed by her compatriots in the beleaguered States, +replied curtly: 'Corsages, sir, I reckon.' So I determined to buy a lot +of the articles she referred to, and on arriving at Glasgow (the port +from which we originally started) I visited an emporium that seemed to +contain everything in the world; and I astonished a young fellow behind +the counter by asking for a thousand pairs of stays. Such an unusual +request sent him off like a rocket to higher authority, with whom I +made a bargain for the article required at one shilling and a penny per +pair, to be delivered the next day. At the same time I bought five +hundred boxes of Cockle's pills, and a quantity of toothbrushes. Well, +here I was in Wilmington, with all these valuables on my hands; the +corsages were all right, but the horrid little Cockles were bursting +their cerements and tumbling about my cabin in all directions. I was +anxious, with the usual gallantry of my cloth, to supply the wants of +the ladies first. The only specimens of the sex that I could see moving +about were coloured women, who were so little encumbered with dress that +I began to think I was mistaken in the article recommended by my lady +friend as being the most required out here. After waiting some time, and +no one coming to bid for my ware, I was meditating putting up on the +ship's side a large board with the name of the article of ladies' dress +written on it--a pillbox for a crest, and toothbrushes as +supporters--when an individual came on board and inquired whether I +wished 'to trade.' I greedily seized upon him, took him into my retreat, +and made him swallow three glasses of brandy in succession, after which +we commenced business. + +I will not trouble my reader with the way in which we traded; regarding +the corsages, suffice it to say that he bought them all at what seemed +to me the enormous price of twelve shillings each, giving me a profit of +nearly eleven hundred per cent. + +On my asking where the fair wearers of the article he had bought could +be seen, he told me that all the ladies had gone into the interior. I +hope they found my importations useful; they certainly were not +ornamental. + +Elated as I was by my success, I did not forget the Cockles, and gently +insinuated to my now somewhat excited friend that we might do a little +more trading. To my disgust he told me that he had never heard of such a +thing as Cockle's pills. I strongly urged him to try half-a-dozen, +assuring him that if he once experienced their invigorating effects he +would never cease to recommend them. But the ignorant fellow didn't seem +to see it; for, finishing his brandy and buttoning up his pockets, he +walked on shore. I never thought of naming toothbrushes, for what could +a man who had never heard of Cockles know of the luxury of toothbrushes? +So I sat quietly down, and began to sum up my profits on the _corsages_. + +I was deeply engaged in this occupation when I felt a heavy hand on my +shoulder. Turning round I saw my friend the trader, who, after having +smothered my boot in tobacco-juice, said, 'I say, captain, have you got +any coffin-screws on trade?' His question rather staggered me, but he +explained that they had no possible way of making this necessary article +in the Southern States, and that they positively could not keep the +bodies quiet in their coffins without them, especially when being sent +any distance for interment. As I had no acquaintance, I am happy to say, +with the sort of thing he wanted, it was agreed upon between us that I +should send to England for a quantity, he, on his part, promising an +enormous profit on their being delivered. + +I cannot help remarking on the very great inconvenience and distress +that were entailed on the South through the want of almost every +description of manufacture. The Southern States, having always been the +producing portion of the Union, had trusted to the North, and to Europe +for its manufactures. Thus, when they were shut out by land and by sea +from the outer world, their raw material was of but little service to +them. This fact tended, more than is generally believed, to weaken the +Southern people in the glorious struggle they made for what they called +and believed to be their rights,--a struggle, the horrors of which are +only half understood by those who were not eye-witnesses of it. Whether +the cause was good, whether armed secession was justifiable or not, is a +matter regarding which opinions differ. But it is undeniable that all +fought and endured in a manner worthy of a good and a just cause, and +many were thoroughly and conscientiously convinced it was so. Such men +as Lee, Stonewall Jackson, and others would never have joined any cause +against their convictions; but it won't do for a blockade-runner to +attempt to moralise. So to return to my story. + +My readers will be desirous of knowing what was the result of my +speculation in Cockles and toothbrushes. Regarding the former, I am +sorry to say that all my endeavours to induce my Southern friends to try +their efficacious powers were of no avail, so I determined to take them +with me to Nassau (if I could get there), thinking that I might find a +market at a place where everyone was bilious from over eating and +drinking, on the strength of the fortunes they were making by +blockade-running; and there I found an enterprising druggist who gave me +two chests of lucifer matches in exchange for my Cockles, which matches +I ultimately sold in the Confederacy at a very fair profit. My +toothbrushes being not in the slightest degree appreciated at +Wilmington, I sent them to Richmond, where they were sold at about seven +times their cost. + +So ended my speculation. The vessel's cargo consisted of blankets, +shoes, Manchester goods of all sorts, and some mysterious cases marked +'hardware,' about which no one asked any questions, but which the +military authorities took possession of. This cargo was landed, and +preparations made for taking on board THE paying article in this trade, +namely, cotton. + +I never bought it in any quantity, but I know that the price in the +Southern States averaged from twopence to threepence a pound, the price +in Liverpool at that time being about half-a-crown. + +We were anxious to try the luck of our run-out before the moon got +powerful, so the cargo was shipped as quickly as possible. In the first +place, the hold was stored by expert stevedores, the cotton-bales being +so closely packed that a mouse could hardly find room to hide itself +among them. The hatches were put on, and a tier of bales put fore and +aft in every available spot on the deck, leaving openings for the +approaches to the cabins, engine-room, and the men's forecastle; then +another somewhat thinner tier on the top of that, after which a few +bales for the captain and officers, those uncontrollable rascals whom +the poor agents could not manage, and the cargo was complete. Loaded in +this way, the vessel with only her foremast up, with her bow-funnel, and +grey-painted sides, looked more like a huge bale of cotton with a stick +placed upright at one end of it, than anything else I can think of. One +bale for----, and still one more for---- (I never tell tales out of +school), and all was ready. + +We left the quay at Wilmington cheered by the hurrahs of our brother +blockade-runners, who were taking in and discharging their cargoes, and +steamed a short distance down the river, when we were boarded to be +_searched_ and _smoked_. This latter extraordinary proceeding, called +for perhaps by the existing state of affairs, took me altogether aback. +That a smoking apparatus should be applied to a cargo of cotton seemed +almost astounding. But so it was ordered, the object being to search for +runaways, and, strange to say, its efficacy was apparent, when, after an +hour or more's application of the process (which was by no means a +gentle one), an unfortunate wretch, crushed almost to death by the +closeness of his hiding-place, poked with a long stick till his ribs +must have been like touchwood, and smoked the colour of a backwood +Indian, was dragged by the heels into the daylight, ignominiously put +into irons, and hurled into the guard-boat. This discovery nearly caused +the detention of the vessel on suspicion of our being the accomplices of +the runaway; but after some deliberation, we were allowed to go on. + +Having steamed down the river a distance of about twenty miles, we +anchored at two o'clock in the afternoon near its mouth. We were hidden +by Fort Fisher from the blockading squadron lying off the bar, there to +remain till some time after nightfall. After anchoring we went on shore +to take a peep at the enemy from the batteries. Its commandant, a fine, +dashing young Confederate officer, who was a firm friend to +blockade-runners, accompanied us round the fort. We counted twenty-five +vessels under weigh; some of them occasionally ventured within range; +but no sooner had one of them done so, than a shot was thrown so +unpleasantly near that she at once moved out again. + +We were much struck with the weakness of Fort Fisher, which, with a +garrison of twelve hundred men, and only half finished, could have been +easily taken at any time since the war began by a resolute body of five +thousand men making a night attack. It is true that at the time of its +capture it was somewhat stronger than at the time I visited it, but even +then its garrison was comparatively small, and its defences unfinished. +I fancy the bold front so long shown by its occupiers had much to do +with the fact that such an attack was not attempted till just before the +close of the war. The time chosen for our starting was eleven o'clock, +at which hour the tide was at its highest on the bar at the entrance of +the river. Fortunately the moon set about ten, and as it was very +cloudy, we had every reason to expect a pitch-dark night. There were two +or three causes that made one rather more nervous on this occasion than +when leaving Bermuda. + +In the first place, five minutes after we had crossed the bar, we should +be in the thick of the blockaders, who always closed nearer in on the +very dark nights. Secondly, our cargo of cotton was of more importance +than the goods we had carried in; and thirdly, it _was the thing to do_ +to make the double trip in and out safely. There were also all manner of +reports of the new plans that had been arranged by a zealous commodore +lately sent from New York to catch us all. However, it was of no use +canvassing these questions, so at a quarter to eleven we weighed anchor +and steamed down to the entrance of the river. + +Very faint lights, which could not be seen far at sea, were set on the +beach in the same position as I have before described, having been thus +placed for a vessel coming in; and bringing these astern in an exact +line, that is the two into one, we knew that we were in the passage for +going over the bar. The order was then given, 'Full speed ahead,' and we +shot at a great speed out to sea. + +Our troubles began almost immediately; for the cruisers had placed a +rowing barge, which could not be seen by the forts, close to the +entrance, to signalise the direction which any vessel that came out +might take. This was done by rockets being thrown up by a designed plan +from the barge. We had hardly cleared the bar when we saw this boat very +near our bows, nicely placed to be run clean over, and as we were going +about fourteen knots, her chance of escape would have been small had we +been inclined to finish her. Changing the helm, which I did myself, a +couple of spokes just took us clear. We passed so close that I could +have dropped a biscuit into the boat with ease. I heard the crash of +broken oars against our sides; not a word was spoken. + +I strongly suspect every man in that boat held his breath till the great +white avalanche of cotton, rushing by so unpleasantly near, had passed +quite clear of her. + +However, they seemed very soon to have recovered themselves, for a +minute had scarcely passed before up went a rocket, which I thought a +very ungrateful proceeding on their part. But they only did their duty, +and perhaps they did not know how nearly they had escaped being made +food for fishes. On the rocket being thrown up, a gun was fired +uncommonly close to us, but as we did not hear any shot, it may have +been only a signal to the cruisers to keep a sharp look-out. + +We steered a mile or two near the coast, always edging a little to the +eastward, and then shaped our course straight out to sea. Several guns +were fired in the pitch-darkness very near us. (I am not quite sure +whether some of the blockaders did not occasionally pepper each other.) +After an hour's fast steaming, we felt moderately safe, and by the +morning had a good offing. + +Daylight broke with thick, hazy weather, nothing being in sight. We went +on all right till half-past eight o'clock, when the weather cleared up, +and there was a large paddle-wheel cruiser (that we must have passed +very near to in the thick weather) about six miles astern of us. The +moment she saw us she gave chase. After running for a quarter of an hour +it was evident that with our heavy cargo on board, the cruiser had the +legs of us, and as there was a long day before us for the chase, things +looked badly. We moved some cotton aft to immerse our screws well; but +still the cruiser was steadily decreasing her distance from us, when an +incident of a very curious nature favoured us for a time. + +It is mentioned in the book of sailing directions, that the course of +the Gulf Stream (in the vicinity of which we knew we were) is in calm +weather and smooth water plainly marked out by a ripple on its inner and +outer edges. We clearly saw, about a mile ahead of us, a remarkable +ripple, which we rightly, as it turned out, conjectured was that +referred to in the book. As soon as we had crossed it, we steered the +usual course of the current of the Gulf Stream, that here ran from two +to three miles an hour. Seeing us alter our course, the cruiser did the +same; but she had _not_ crossed the ripple on the edge of the stream, +and the course she was now steering tended to keep her for some time +from doing so. The result soon made it evident that the observations in +the book were correct; for until she too crossed the ripple into the +stream, we dropped her rapidly astern, whereby we increased our distance +to at least seven miles. + +It was now noon, from which time the enemy again began to close with +us, and at five o'clock was not more than three miles distant. At six +o'clock she opened a harmless fire with the Parrot gun in her bow, the +shot falling far short of us. The sun set at a quarter to seven, by +which time she had got so near that she managed to send two or three +shots over us, and was steadily coming up. + +Luckily, as night came on, the weather became very cloudy, and we were +on the dark side of the moon, now setting in the West, which +occasionally breaking through the clouds astern of the cruiser, showed +us all her movements, while we must have been very difficult to make +out, though certainly not more than a mile off. All this time she kept +firing away, thinking, I suppose, that she would frighten us into +stopping. If we had gone straight on, we should doubtless have been +caught; so we altered our course two points to the eastward. After +steaming a short distance we stopped quite still, blowing off steam +under water, not a spark or the slightest smoke showing from the funnel; +and we had the indescribable satisfaction of seeing our enemy steam past +us, still firing ahead at some imaginary vessel. + +This had been a most exciting chase and a very narrow escape; night only +saved us from a New York prison. All this hard running had made an +awful hole in our coal-bunkers, and as it was necessary to keep a stock +for a run off the blockaded Bahama Islands, we were obliged to reduce +our expenditure to as small a quantity as possible. However we were well +out to sea, and after having passed the line of cruisers between +Wilmington and Bermuda, we had not much to fear till we approached the +British possessions of Nassau and the adjacent islands, where two or +three very fast American vessels were cruising, although five hundred +miles from American waters. I am ignorant, I confess, of the laws of +blockade, or indeed if a law there be that allows its enforcement, and +penalties to be enacted, five hundred miles away from the ports +blockaded. But it did seem strange that the men-of-war of a nation at +peace with England should be allowed to cruise off her ports, to stop +and examine trading vessels of all descriptions, to capture and send to +New York, for adjudication, vessels on the mere suspicion of their being +intended blockade-runners; and to chase and fire into real +blockade-runners so near to the shore that on one occasion the shot and +shell fell into a fishing village, and that within sight of an English +man-of-war lying at anchor in the harbour at Nassau. Surely it is time +that some well-understood laws should be made, and rules laid down, or +such doings will sooner or later recoil on their authors. + +Having so little coal on board, we determined on making for the nearest +point of the Bahama Islands, and luckily reached a queer little island +called Green Turtle Quay, on the extreme north of the group, where was a +small English colony, without being seen by the cruisers. We had not +been there long, however, before one of them came sweeping round the +shore, and stopped unpleasantly near to us; even though we were inside +the rock she hovered about outside, not a mile from us. + +We were a tempting bait, but a considerable risk to snap, and I suppose +the American captain could not quite make up his mind to capture a +vessel (albeit a blockade-runner piled full of cotton) lying in an +English port, insignificant though that port might be. We had got a +large white English ensign hoisted on a pole, thereby showing the +nationality of the rock, should the cruiser be inclined to question it. +After many longing looks, she steamed slowly away, much to our +satisfaction. Coals were sent to us from Nassau the next day, which +having been taken on board, we weighed anchor, keeping close to the +reefs and islands all the way. We steamed towards that port, and arrived +safely, having made the in-and-out voyage, including the time in +unloading and loading at Wilmington, in sixteen days. + +To attempt to describe at length the state of things at this usually +tranquil and unfrequented little spot is beyond my powers. I will only +mention some of its most striking features. Nassau differed much from +Wilmington, inasmuch as at the latter place there was a considerable +amount of poverty and distress, and men's minds were weighted with many +troubles and anxieties; whereas, at Nassau, everything at the time I +speak of was _couleur de rose_. Every one seemed prosperous and happy. +You met with calculating, far-seeing men who were steadily employed in +feathering their nests, let the war in America end as it might; others +who, in the height of their enthusiasm for the Southern cause, put their +last farthing into Confederate securities, anticipating enormous +profits; some men, careless and thoughtless, living for the hour, were +spending their dollars as fast as they made them, forgetting that they +would 'never see the like again.' There were rollicking captains and +officers of blockade-runners, and drunken swaggering crews; sharpers +looking out for victims; Yankee spies; and insolent worthless _free +niggers_--all these combined made a most heterogeneous, though +interesting, crowd. + +The inhabitants of Nassau, who, until the period of blockade-running, +had, with some exceptions, subsisted on a precarious and somewhat +questionable livelihood gained by wrecking, had their heads as much +turned as the rest of the world. Living was exorbitantly dear, as can be +well imagined, when the captain of a blockade-runner could realise in a +month a sum as large as the Governor's salary. The expense of living was +so great that the officers of the West India regiment quartered here had +to apply for special allowance, and I believe their application was +successful. The hotel, a large building, hitherto a most ruinous +speculation, began to realise enormous profits. In fact, the almighty +dollar was spent as freely as the humble cent had been before this +golden era in the annals of Nassau. + +As we had to stay here till the time for the dark nights came round +again, we took it easy, and thoroughly enjoyed all the novelty of the +scene. Most liberal entertainment was provided free by our owner's +agent, and altogether we found Nassau very jolly: so much so, that we +felt almost sorry when 'time' was called, and we had to prepare for +another run. In fact, it was pleasanter in blockade-running to look +backwards than forwards, especially if one had been so far in good luck. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +A VISIT TO CHARLESTON. + + +All being ready, we steamed out of Nassau harbour, and were soon again +in perilous waters. We had a distant chase now and then--a mere child's +play to us after our experience--and on the third evening of our voyage +we were pretty well placed for making a run through the blockading +squadron as soon as it was dark. As the moon rose at twelve o'clock, it +was very important that we should get into port before she threw a light +upon the subject. + +Unfortunately, we were obliged to alter our course or stop so often to +avoid cruisers that we ran our time too close; for, as we were getting +near to the line of blockade, a splendid three-quarter-size moon rose, +making everything as clear as day. Trying to pass through the line of +vessels ahead with such a bright light shining would have been madness; +in fact, it was dangerous to be moving about at all in such clear +weather, so we steamed towards the land on the extreme left of the line +of cruisers, and having made it out, went quite close inshore and +anchored. + +By lying as close as we dare to the beach, we must have had the +appearance of forming part of the low sand-hills, which were about the +height and colour of the vessel; the wood on their tops forming a +background which hid the small amount of funnel and mast that showed +above the decks. We must have been nearly invisible, for we had scarcely +been an hour at anchor when a gun-boat came steaming along the shore +very near to the beach; and while we were breathlessly watching her, +hoping that she would go past, she dropped anchor alongside of us, a +little outside where we were lying--so close that we not only heard +every order that was given on board, but could almost make out the +purport of the ordinary conversation of the people on her decks. A +pistol shot would have easily reached us. Our position was most +unpleasant, to say the least of it. We could not stay where we were, as +it only wanted two hours to daybreak. If we had attempted to weigh +anchor, we must have been heard doing so. However, we had sufficient +steam at command to make a run for it. So, after waiting a little to +allow the cruiser's fires to get low, we knocked the pin out of the +shackle of the chain on deck, and easing the cable down into the water, +went ahead with one engine and astern with the other, to turn our vessel +round head to seaward. + +Imagine our consternation when, as she turned, she struck the shore +before coming half round (she had been lying with her head inshore, so +now it was pointed along the beach, luckily in the right direction, i.e. +lying from the cruiser). There was nothing left to us but to put on full +speed, and if possible force her from the obstruction, which after two +or three hard bumps we succeeded in doing. + +After steaming quite close to the beach for a little way, we stopped to +watch the gun-boat, which, after resting for an hour or so, weighed +anchor and steamed along the beach in the opposite direction to the way +we had been steering, and was soon out of sight. So we steamed a short +distance inshore and anchored again. It would have been certain capture +to have gone out to sea just before daybreak, so we made the little +craft as invisible as possible, and remained all the next day, trusting +to our luck not to be seen. And our luck favoured us; for, although we +saw several cruisers at a distance, none noticed us, which seems almost +miraculous. + +Thus passed Christmas Day, 1863, and an anxious day it was to all of +us. We might have landed our cargo where we were lying, but it would +have been landed in a dismal swamp, and we should have been obliged to +go into Wilmington for our cargo of cotton. + +When night closed in we weighed anchor and steamed to the entrance of +the river, which, from our position being so well defined, we had no +difficulty in making out. We received a broadside from a savage little +gun-boat quite close inshore, her shot passing over us, and that was +all. We got comfortably to the anchorage about half-past eleven o'clock, +and so ended our second journey in. + +I determined this time to have a look at Charleston, which was then +undergoing a lengthened and destructive siege. So, after giving over my +craft into the hands of the owner's representatives, who would unload +and put her cargo of cotton on board, I took my place in the train and, +after passing thirty-six of the most miserable hours in my life +travelling the distance of one hundred and forty miles, I arrived at the +capital of South Carolina, or rather near to that city--for the train, +disgusted I suppose with itself, ran quietly off the line about two +miles from the station into a meadow. The passengers seemed perfectly +contented, and shouldering their baggage walked off into the town. I +mechanically followed with my portmanteau, and in due course arrived at +the only hotel, where I was informed I might have half a room. + +Acting on a hint I received from a black waiter that food was being +devoured in the coffee-room, and that if I did not look out for myself I +should have to do without that essential article for the rest of the +day, I hurried into the _salle-a-manger_, where two long tables were +furnished with all the luxuries then to be obtained in Charleston, which +luxuries consisted of lumps of meat supposed to be beef, boiled Indian +corn, and I think there were the remains of a feathered biped or two, to +partake of which I was evidently too late. All these washed down with +water, or coffee without sugar, were not very tempting; but human nature +must be supported, so to it I set, and having swallowed a sufficient +quantity of animal food, I went off to my room to take a pull at a +bottle of brandy which I had sagaciously stored in my carpet-bag. But, +alas! for the morals of the beleaguered city. I found, on arriving +there, a nigger extended at full length in happy oblivion on the floor, +with the few clothes I had with me forming his pillow, and the brandy +bottle rolling about alongside of him, empty. + +I first of all hammered his head against the floor, but the floor had +the worst of it; then I kicked his shins (the only vulnerable part of a +nigger), but it was of no use; so pouring the contents of a water jug +over him, in the hope that I might thus cause awful dreams to disturb +his slumbers, I left him, voting myself a muff for leaving the key in my +box. + +Having letters of introduction to some of General Beauregard's staff, I +made my way to headquarters, where I met with the greatest courtesy and +kindness. An orderly was sent with me to show me the top of the tower, a +position that commanded a famous view of the besieging army, the +blockading squadron, and all the defences of the place. A battery had +just been placed by the enemy (consisting of five Parrot guns of heavy +calibre) five miles from the town, and that day had opened fire for the +first time. At that enormous range the shell occasionally burst over or +fell into the city, doing, however, little damage. The elevation of the +guns must have been unusually great. I am told that every one of them +burst after a week's, or thereabouts, firing. Poor Fort Sumter was +nearly silenced after many months' hammering, but its brave defenders +remained in it to the last, and it was not till a few days before +Charleston was abandoned that they gave it up. At the time I speak of +the whole of the western beach was in the hands of the enemy, Battery +Wagner having succumbed after one of the most gallant defences on +record. While it remained in the hands of the Southerners it assisted +Fort Sumter, inasmuch as from its position it kept the enemy at a +distance, but after its capture, or rather destruction, the latter fort +was exposed to a tremendous fire from ships and batteries, and its solid +front was terribly crumbled. + +Surrounded, however, with water as it was, it would have been most +difficult to take by assault; and from what I could learn, certain +destruction would have met any body of men who had attempted it +latterly. There it stood, sulkily firing a shot or shell now and then, +more out of defiance than anything else. The blockading, or rather +bombarding, squadron was lying pretty near to it on the western side of +the entrance to the harbour; but on the east side, formidable batteries +belonging to the Southerners kept them at a respectable distance. +Blockade-running into Charleston was quite at an end at the time I am +writing about. Not that I think the cruisers could have kept vessels +from getting in, but for the reason that the harbour was a perfect +network of torpedoes and infernal machines (the passage through which +was only known to a few persons), placed by the Southerners to prevent +the Northern fleet from approaching the city. + +Having had a good look at the positions of the attacking and defending +parties, I went down from the tower and paid a visit to a battery where +two Blakely guns of heavy calibre, that had lately been run through the +blockade in the well-known 'Sumter' (now the 'Gibraltar'), were mounted. +These guns threw a shot of 720 lbs. weight, and were certainly +masterpieces of design and execution. Unhappily, proper instructions for +loading had not accompanied them from England, and on the occasion of +the first round being fired from one of them, the gun not being properly +loaded, cracked at the breech, and was rendered useless; the other, +however, did good service, throwing shot with accuracy at great +distances. I saw much that was interesting here, but more able pens than +mine have already described fully the details of that long siege, where +on one hand all modern appliances of war that ingenuity could conceive +or money purchase were put into the hands of brave and determined +soldiers; on the other hand were bad arms, bad powder, bad provisions, +bad everything; desperate courage and unheard-of self-denial being all +the Southerners had to depend upon. + +These poor Southerners never began to open their eyes to the +hopelessness of their cause till Sherman's almost unopposed march showed +the weakness of the whole country. Even strangers like myself were so +carried away with the enthusiasm of the moment, that we shut our eyes to +what should have been clearly manifest to us. We could not believe that +men who were fighting and enduring as these men were could ever be +beaten. Some of their leaders must have foreseen that the catastrophe +was coming months before it occurred; but, if they did so, they were +afraid to make their opinion public. + +On returning to the hotel, I found it full of people of all classes +indulging in tobacco (the only solace left them) in every form. It is +all very well to say that smoking is a vile habit; so it may be, when +indulged in by luxurious fellows who eat and drink their full every day, +and are rarely without a cigar or pipe in their mouths; it may, perhaps, +be justly said that such men abuse the use of the glorious narcotic +supplied by Providence for men's consolation under difficulties. But +when a man has hard mental and bodily work, and barely enough food to +support nature, water being his only drink, then give him tobacco, and +he will thoroughly appreciate it. Besides, it will do him real good. I +think that at any time its use in moderation is harmless and often +beneficial, but under the circumstances I speak of it is a luxury +without price. + +During the evening I met at the hotel a Confederate naval officer who +was going to attempt that night to carry havoc among the blockading +squadron by means of a cigar-shaped vessel of a very curious +description. + +This vessel was a screw steamer of sixty feet in length, with eight feet +beam. She lay, before being prepared for the important service on which +she was going, with about two feet of her hull showing above the water, +at each end of which, on the shoulder as it were of the cigar, was a +small hatch or opening, just large enough to allow a man to pop through +it: from her bows projected a long iron outrigger, at the end of which +there was fixed a torpedo that would explode on coming into contact with +a vessel's side. + +When the crew were on board, and had gone down into the vessel through +one of the hatches above mentioned, the said hatches were firmly closed, +and by arrangements that were made from the inside the vessel was sunk +about six inches below the water, leaving merely a small portion of the +funnel showing. Steam and smoke being got rid of below water, the vessel +was invisible, torpedo and all being immersed. + +The officer having thus described his vessel, wished me good-night, and +started on his perilous enterprise. I met him again next evening quietly +smoking his pipe. I eagerly asked him what he had done, when he told me +with the greatest _sang-froid_ that he had gone on board his vessel with +a crew of seven men; that everything for a time had gone like clockwork; +they were all snug below with hatches closed, the vessel was sunk to the +required depth, and was steadily steaming down the harbour, apparently +perfectly water-tight, when suddenly the sea broke through the foremost +hatch and she went to the bottom immediately. He said he did not know +how he escaped. He imagined that after the vessel had filled he had +managed to escape through the aperture by which the water got in; all +the rest of the poor fellows were drowned. Not that my friend seemed to +think anything of that, for human life was very little thought of in +those times. This vessel was afterwards got up, when the bodies of her +crew were still in her hold. I imagined that the vessel contained +sufficient air to enable her to remain under water two or three hours, +or maybe some method was practised by which air could be introduced by +the funnel; at all events, had she been successful on that night, she +would undoubtedly have caused a good deal of damage and loss to the +blockading squadron, who were constantly harassed by all sorts of +infernal machines, torpedoes, fire-vessels, &c., which were sent out +against them by ingenious Southerners, whose fertile imaginations were +constantly conceiving some new invention. + +On the next occasion that same enterprising officer was employed on a +similar enterprise, his efforts were crowned with complete success. + +He started one dark night, in a submerged vessel of the same kind as +that above described, and exploded the torpedo against the bows of one +of the blockading squadron, doing so much damage that the vessel had to +be run on shore to prevent her sinking. + +I must, before finishing my account of what I saw and did in Charleston, +mention a circumstance that showed how little the laws of _meum_ and +_tuum_ are respected during war times. The morning before I left, I had +a fancy for having my coat brushed and my shoes polished. So having +deposited these articles on a chair at the door of my room, I went to +bed again to have another snooze, hoping to find them cleaned when I +awoke. After an hour or so I got up to dress, and rang the bell several +times without getting any answer. So I opened the door and looked out +into the passage. To my surprise I saw an individual sitting on the +chair on which I had put my clothes, trying on one of my boots. He had +succeeded in getting it half on when it had stuck, and at the time I +discovered him he seemed to be in a fix, inasmuch as he could neither +get the boot off nor on. He was struggling violently with my poor boot, +as if it were his personal enemy, and swearing like a trooper. Not +wishing to increase his ire, I blandly insinuated that the boots were +mine, on which he turned his wrath towards me, making most unpleasant +remarks, which he wound up by saying that in these times anything that a +man could pick up lying about was his lawful property, and that he was +astonished at my impudence in asking for the boots. However, as the +darned things would not fit him 'no how,' he guessed I was welcome to +them; and giving a vicious tug to the boot to get it off, he succeeded +in doing so, and I, picking it up with its fellow, made good my retreat. +But where was my coat? I could not get an echo of an answer, where? So I +went downstairs and told my piteous tale to the landlord, who laughed at +my troubles, and told me he could not give me the slightest hopes of +ever seeing it again; but he offered to lend me a garment in which to +travel to Wilmington, which offer I gladly accepted. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +NEVER CAUGHT! + + +On my return to Wilmington I found that my vessel was ready for sea, so +I took charge of her, and we went down the river. + +We had to undergo the same ordeal as before in the way of being smoked +and searched. This time there were no runaways discovered, but there was +one on board for all that, who made his appearance, almost squashed to +death, after we had been twenty-four hours at sea. We then anchored +under Fort Fisher, where we waited until it was dark, after which, when +the tide was high enough on the bar, we made a move and were soon +rushing out to sea at full speed. There was a considerable swell +running, which we always considered a point in our favour. By the way, +writing of swells puts me in mind of a certain 'swell' I had on board as +passenger on this occasion, who, while in Wilmington, had been talking +very big about 'hunting,' which probably he supposed I knew nothing +about. He used to give us long narratives of his own exploits in the +hunting-field, and expatiated on the excitement of flying over ditches +and hedges, while apparently he looked upon blockade-running and its +petty risks with sublime contempt. Soon after we crossed the bar on our +way out a gentle breeze and swell began to lift the vessel up and down, +and this motion he described as 'very like hunting.' + +Just after he had ventured this remark, a Yankee gun-boat favoured us +with a broadside and made a dash to cut us off. This part of the fun, +however, my friend did not seem to think at all 'like hunting,' and +after having strongly urged me to return to the anchorage under the +protecting guns of the fort, he disappeared below, and never talked, to +me at least, about hunting again. + +But to return to my story, there was, as I said before, a considerable +swell running outside, which was fortunate for us, as we ran almost into +a gunboat lying watching unusually close to the bar. It would have been +useless to turn round and endeavour to escape by going back, as, if we +had done so, we should inevitably have been driven on to the beach, and +either captured or destroyed. In such a predicament there was nothing +for it but to make a dash past and take the gun-boat's fire and its +consequences. I knew we had the legs of her, and therefore felt more at +ease in thus running the gauntlet than I otherwise should have done, so +on we went at full speed. She fired her broadside at about fifty yards +distance, but the shot all passed over us, except one that went through +our funnel. The marines on board of her kept up a heavy fire of musketry +as long as we were visible, but only slightly wounded one of our men. +Rockets were then thrown up as signals to her consorts, two of which +came down on us, but luckily made a bad guess at our position, and +closed with us on our quarter instead of our bow. They also opened fire, +but did us no injury. At the moment there was no vessel in sight ahead; +and as we were going at a splendid pace, we soon reduced our dangerous +companions to three or four shadowy forms struggling astern without a +hope of catching us. The signalising and firing had, however, brought +several other blockaders down to dispute our passage, and we found +ourselves at one moment with a cruiser on each side within a pistol shot +of us; our position being that of the meat in a sandwich. So near were +the cruisers, that they seemed afraid to fire from the danger of hitting +each other, and, thanks to our superior speed, we shot ahead and left +them without their having fired a shot. + +Considering the heavy swell that was running, there was the merest +chance of their hitting us; in fact, to take a blockade-runner in the +night, when there was a heavy swell or wind, if she did not choose to +give in, was next to impossible. To run her down required the cruiser to +have much superior speed, and was a dangerous game to play, for vessels +have been known to go down themselves while acting that part. + +Then, again, it must be borne in mind that the blockade-runner had +always full speed at command, her steam being at all times well up and +every one on board on the look-out; whereas the man-of-war must be +steaming with some degree of economy and ease, and her look-out men had +not the excitement to keep them always on the _qui vive_ that we had. + +I consider that the only chances the blockading squadron had of +capturing a blockade-runner were in the following instances; viz., in a +fair chase in daylight, when superior speed would tell, or chasing her +on shore, or driving her in so near the beach that her crew were driven +to set fire to her and make their escape; in which case a prize might be +made, though perhaps of no great value; or frightening a vessel by guns +and rockets during the night into giving up. Some of the +blockade-runners showed great pluck, and stood a lot of pitching into. +About sixty-six vessels left England and New York to run the blockade +during the four years' war, of which more than forty were destroyed by +their own crews or captured; but most of them made several runs before +they came to grief, and in so doing paid well for their owners. + +I once left Bermuda, shortly before the end of the war, in company with +four others, and was the only fortunate vessel of the lot. Of the other +four, three were run on shore and destroyed by their own crews, and one +was fairly run down at sea and captured. + +I saw an extraordinarily plucky thing done on one occasion, which I +cannot refrain from narrating. We had made a successful run through the +blockade, and were lying under Fort Fisher, when as daylight broke we +heard a heavy firing, and as it got lighter we saw a blockade-runner +surrounded by the cruisers. Her case seemed hopeless, but on she came +for the entrance, hunted like a rabbit by no end of vessels. The guns of +the fort were at once manned, ready to protect her as soon as her +pursuers should come within range. Every effort was made to cut her off +from the entrance of the river, and how it was she was not sunk I cannot +tell. As she came on we could see N----, her commander, a well-known +successful blockade-runner, standing on her paddle-box with his hat off, +as if paying proper respect to the men-of-war. And now the fort opened +fire at the chasing cruisers, from whom the blockade-runner was +crawling, being by this time well inshore. One vessel was evidently +struck, as she dropped out of range very suddenly. On came the 'Old +J----,' one of the fastest boats in the trade, and anchored all right; +two or three shots in her hull, but no hurt. Didn't we cheer her! the +reason of her being in the position in which we saw her at daylight was +that she had run the time rather short, and daylight broke before she +could get into the river; so that, instead of being there, she was in +the very centre of the blockading fleet. Many men would have given in, +but old N---- was made of different stuff. + +We got well clear of the cruisers before daybreak, and keeping far out +to sea, were unmolested during the run to Nassau, where we arrived +safely with our second cargo of cotton, having this time been eighteen +days making the round trip. + +Having made two round trips, we could afford to take it easy for a +short time, and as the dark nights would not come on for three weeks, we +gave the little craft a thorough refit, hauling her up on a patent slip +that an adventurous American had laid down especially for +blockade-runners, and for the use of which we had to pay a price which +would have astonished some of our large ship-owners. I may mention that +blockade-runners always lived well; may be acting on the principle that +'good people are scarce'; so we kept a famous table and drank the best +of wine. An English man-of-war was lying in the harbour, whose officers +frequently condescended to visit us, and whose mouths watered at what +they saw and heard of the profits and pleasures of blockade-running. +Indeed, putting on one side the sordid motives which I dare say to a +certain extent actuated us, there was a thrilling and glorious +excitement about the work, which would have well suited some of these +gay young fellows. + +Time again came round too soon, and we had to start on another trip, and +to tear ourselves away from all sorts of amusements, some of us from +domestic ties: for there were instances of anxious wives who, having +followed their husbands to the West Indies, vastly enjoyed all the +novelty of the scene. These ladies had their pet ships, in whose +captains they had confidence, and in which they sent private ventures +into the Confederacy; and in this way some of them made a nice little +addition to their pin-money. I don't know that any of them speculated in +Cockle's pills or corsages, but I heard of one lady who sent in a large +quantity of yellow soap, and made an enormous profit out of her venture. + +Having completed the necessary alterations and repairs, and made all +snug for a fresh run, we started again from the port of Nassau. We had +scarcely steamed along the coast forty miles from the mouth of the +harbour, when we discovered a steamer bearing down on us, and we soon +made her out to be a well-known, very fast Yankee cruiser, of whom we +were all terribly afraid. As we were still in British waters, skirting +the shore of the Bahamas, I determined not to change my course, but kept +steadily on, always within a mile of the shore. On the man-of-war firing +a shot across our bows as a signal for us to heave to, I hoisted the +English colours and anchored. An American officer came on board, who, +seeing unmistakable proofs of the occupation we were engaged in, seemed +very much inclined to make a prize of us; but on my informing him that I +claimed exemption from capture on the ground of the vessel being in +British waters, he, after due consideration, sulkily wished me good +morning and went back to his ship. She continued to watch us till the +middle of the night, when I imagine something else attracted her +attention, and she steamed away. We, taking advantage of her temporary +absence, weighed our anchor and were soon far out at sea. + +At the end of three days we had run into a position about sixty miles +from Wilmington without any incident happening worth mentioning. On our +nearing the blockading squadron at nightfall we heard a great deal of +firing going on inshore, which we conjectured (rightly as it afterwards +appeared) was caused by the American ships, who were chasing and +severely handling a blockade-runner. An idea at once struck me, which I +quickly put into execution. We steamed in as fast as we could, and soon +made out a vessel ahead that was hurrying in to help her consorts to +capture or destroy the contraband. We kept close astern of her, and in +this position followed the cruiser several miles. She made signals +continually by flashing different coloured lights rapidly from the +paddle-boxes, the meaning of which I tried my best to make out, so that +I might be able to avail myself of the knowledge of the blockade signals +at some future time; but I could not manage to make head or tail of +them. + +Suddenly the firing ceased, and our pioneer turned out to sea again. As +we were by this time very near inshore, we stopped the engines and +remained quite still, but unluckily could not make out our exact +position. + +The blockading cruisers were evidently very close in, so we did not like +moving about; besides, the pilot was confident that we were close enough +to the entrance of the river to enable us to run in when day broke, +without being in any danger from the enemy. + +Thus for the remainder of the night we lay quite close to the beach. +Unfortunately, however, about an hour before daylight we struck the +shore, and all our efforts to free the vessel were of no avail. + +As the day dawned we found that we were about a mile from Fort Fisher, +and that two of the American vessels nearest the shore were about a mile +from us when we first made them out, and were steaming to seaward, +having probably been lying pretty near to the river's mouth during the +darkness of the night. They were not slow to make us out in our unhappy +position. I ordered the boats to be lowered, and gave every one on board +the option of leaving the vessel, as it seemed evident that we were +doomed to be a bone of contention between the fort and the blockaders. +All hands, however, stuck to the ship, and we set to work to lighten her +as much as possible. Steam being got up to the highest pressure, the +engines worked famously, but she would not move, and I feared the sand +would get into the bilges. And now a confounded vessel deliberately +tried the range with her Parrot gun, and the shot splashed alongside of +us. Her fire, however, was promptly replied to by Fort Fisher. The shot +from the fort's heavy artillery passed right over and close to the +cruiser, and made her move further out, and thus spoiled the accuracy of +the range of our devoted little craft, which the man-of-war had so +correctly obtained. We made a frantic effort to get off our sandy bed, +and on all hands running from one extremity of the vessel to the other, +to our delight she slipped off into deep water. + +But our troubles were not yet over. To get into the river's mouth it was +necessary to make a _detour_, to do which we had to steer out towards +the blockading fleet for a quarter of a mile before we could turn to go +into the river. While we were performing this somewhat ticklish +manoeuvre, Fort Fisher most kindly opened a heavy fire from all its guns, +and thus drew the attention of the blockaders from us. In twenty +minutes from the time we got off we were safely at anchor under the +Confederate batteries. The vessel that had been so hard chased and fired +at during the night was lying safely at the anchorage, not very much +damaged. + +This was by far the most anxious time we had gone through. We had to +thank the commandant and garrison of Fort Fisher for our escape. Having +paid our gallant rescuers a visit, we took a pilot on board and steamed +up to Wilmington. Cape Clear river at this time was full of all sorts of +torpedoes and obstructions, put down to prevent any gun-boats from +approaching the town of Wilmington, should the forts at its entrance be +taken possession of by the enemy. And as the whereabouts of these +obstructions were only known to certain pilots, we had to be careful to +have the right man on board. We got up in safety, and finding that our +cargo of cotton was ready, made haste to unload and prepare for sea +again as quickly as possible. + +There was nothing interesting in Wilmington, which is a large straggling +town built on sand-hills. At the time I write of the respectable +inhabitants were nearly all away from their homes, and the town was full +of adventurers of all descriptions; some who came to sell cotton, others +to buy at enormous prices European goods brought in by +blockade-runners. These goods they took with them into the interior, +and, adding a heavy percentage to the price, people who were forced to +buy them paid most ruinous prices for the commonest necessaries of life. + +On this occasion we spent a very short time at Wilmington, and having +taken our cargo of cotton, we went down the river to the old waiting +place under the friendly batteries of Fort Fisher. We had scarcely +anchored when a heavy fog came on; as the tide for going over the bar +did not suit till three o'clock in the morning, which I considered an +awkward time, inasmuch as we should only have two hours of darkness left +in which to get our offing from the land, I determined to go out in the +fog and take my chance of the thick weather lasting. I calculated that +if we had met with any cruisers, they would not have been expecting us, +and so would have been under low steam. + +I was told by every one that I was mad to venture out, and all sorts of +prognostications were made that I should come to grief, in spite of +which omens of disaster, however, I went over the bar at four o'clock in +the afternoon in a fog, through which I could hardly see from one end of +the ship to the other, and took my chance. As we went on the fog seemed +to get if possible still thicker, and through the night it was +impossible for us to see anything or anything to see us. + +In the morning we had an offing of at least a hundred and twenty miles, +and nothing was in sight. We made a most prosperous voyage, and arrived +at Nassau safely in seventy-two hours, thus completing our third round +trip. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +LAST DAYS ON THE 'D----N.' + + +As no vessel had succeeded since the blockade was established in getting +into Savannah (a large and flourishing town in Georgia, situated a few +miles up a navigable river of the same name), where there was a famous +market for all sorts of goods, and where plenty of the finest sea-island +cotton was stored ready for embarkation, and as the southern port pilots +were of opinion that all that was required to ensure success was an +effort to obtain it, I undertook to try if we could manage to get the +'D----n' in. + +The principal difficulty we had to contend with was that the Northerners +had possession of a large fortification called Pulaski, which, being +situated at the entrance of the river, commanded the passage up to the +town. + +To pass this place in the night seemed easy work enough, as it would be +hard for the sentry to make a vessel out disguised as we were; but to +avoid the shoals and sand-banks at the river's mouth, in a pitch-dark +night, seemed to me, after carefully studying the chart, to be a most +difficult matter. This, however, was the pilot's business; all we +captains had to do was to avoid dangers from the guns of ships and +forts; or, if we could not avoid them, to stand being fired at. + +The pilot we had engaged was full of confidence; so much so, that he +refused to have any payment for his services until he had taken us in +and out safely. I may as well mention that there were few if any +blockading vessels off Savannah river, the Northerners having perfect +confidence, I presume, in Fort Pulaski and the shoals which surrounded +the entrance of the river being sufficient to prevent any attempt at +blockade-running succeeding. The lights in the ship off Port Royal, a +small harbour in the hands of the Northern Government, a few miles from +the entrance to Savannah, were as bright as in the time of peace, and +served as a capital guide to the river's mouth. After two days' run from +Nassau we arrived without accident to within twenty miles of the low +land through which the Savannah river runs, and at dark steered for the +light-vessel lying off Port Royal. Having made it out, in fact steaming +close up to it, we shaped our course for Fort Pulaski, using the light +as a point of departure, the distance by the chart being twelve miles. +We soon saw its outlines looming through the darkness ahead, and +formidable though it looked, it caused me no anxiety, compared with the +danger we seemed to be in from the shoalwater and breakers being all +around us. However, the pilot who had charge of such matters seemed +comfortable enough. + +So we went cautiously along, and in ten minutes would have been past +danger, at all events from the batteries on the fort, when one of the +severest storms I ever remember of wind and rain, accompanied by thunder +and lightning, came on, and enveloped us in a most impenetrable +darkness. Knowing that we were surrounded by most dangerous shoals, and +being then in only fifteen feet water, I felt our position to be a very +perilous one. The pilot had by this time pretty well lost his head; in +fact, it would have puzzled anyone to say where we were. So we turned +round and steered out to sea again, by the same way we had come in; and +when we were as near as we could guess twenty miles from land, we let go +our anchor in fifteen fathoms water. + +Then came on a heavy gale of wind accompanied by a thick fog, which +lasted three days and nights. I never in my life passed such an +unpleasant time, rolling our gunnels under, knowing that we were +drifting, our anchor having dragged, but in what direction it was +difficult to judge; unable to cook, through the sea we had shipped +having put our galley-fire out; and, worse than all, burning quantities +of coal, as we had to keep steam always well up, ready for anything that +might happen. + +One day it cleared up for half an hour about noon, and we managed to get +meridian observations, which showed us that we had drifted thirty miles +of latitude, but we still remained in ignorance of our longitude. On the +fourth day the gale moderated, the weather cleared up, and we +ascertained our position correctly by observations. + +When it was dark we steered for the light-vessel off Port Royal, +meaning, as before, to make her our point of departure for the entrance +of the river. But we went on and on, and we could not see the glimmer of +a light or even anything of a vessel (we found out afterwards that the +light-ship had been blown from her moorings in the gale). This was a +nice mess. The pilot told us that to attempt to run for the entrance +without having the bearings of the light to guide us would have been +perfect madness. We had barely enough coals to take us back to Nassau, +and if we had remained dodging about, waiting for the light-vessel to be +replaced, we should have been worse off for fuel, of which we had so +little that if we had been chased on our way back we should certainly +have been captured. + +So we started for Nassau, keeping well in shore on the Georgia and +Florida coast. Along this coast there were many small creeks and rivers +where blockade-running in small crafts, and even boats, was constantly +carried on, and where the Northerners had stationed several brigs and +schooners of war, who did the best they could to stop the traffic. Many +an open boat has run over from the northernmost island of the Bahamas +group, a distance of fifty miles, and returned with one or two bales of +cotton, by which her crew were well remunerated. + +We had little to fear from sailing men-of-war, as the weather was calm +and fine, so we steamed a few miles from the shore, all day passing +several of them, just out of range of their guns. One vessel tried the +effect of a long shot, but we could afford to laugh at her. + +The last night we spent at sea was rather nervous work. We had reduced +our coals to about three-quarters of a ton, and had to cross the Gulf +Stream at the narrow part between the Florida coast and the Bahamas, a +distance of twenty-eight miles, where the force of the current is four +knots an hour. Our coals were soon finished. We cut up the available +spars, oars, &c., burnt a hemp cable (that by the way made a capital +blaze), and just managed to fetch across to the extreme western end of +the group of islands belonging to Great Britain, where we anchored. + +We couldn't have steamed three miles further. On the wild spot where we +anchored there was fortunately a small heap of anthracite coal, that +probably had been part of the cargo of some wreck, of which we took as +much as would carry us to Nassau, and arrived there safely. Thus the +attempt to get into Savannah was a failure. It was tried once afterwards +by a steamer which managed to get well past the fort, but which stuck on +a sand-bank shortly after doing so, and was captured in the morning. + +It is not my intention to inflict on my readers any more anecdotes of my +own doings in the 'D----n;' suffice it to say that I had the good luck +to make six round trips in her, in and out of Wilmington, and that I +gave her over to the chief officer and went home to England with my +spoils. On arriving at Southampton, the first thing I saw in the 'Times' +was a paragraph headed, 'The Capture of the "D----n."' Poor little +craft! I learned afterwards how she was taken, which I will relate, and +which will show that she died game. + +The officer to whom I gave over charge was as fine a specimen of a +seaman as well can be imagined, plucky, cool, and determined, and by the +way he was a bit of a medico, as well as a sailor; for by his beneficial +treatment of his patients we had very few complaints of sickness on +board. As our small dispensary was close to my cabin, I used to hear the +conversation that took place between C---- and his patients. I will +repeat one. + +_C._ 'Well, my man, what's the matter with you?' + +_Patient._ 'Please, sir, I've got pains all over me.' + +_C._ 'Oh, all over you, are they; that's bad.' + +Then, during the pause, it was evident something was being mixed up, and +I could hear C---- say: 'Here, take this, and come again in the +evening.' (Exit patient.) Then C. said to himself: 'I don't think he'll +come again; he has got two drops of the croton. Skulking rascal, pains +all over him, eh!' I never heard the voice of that patient again; in +fact, after a short time we had no cases of sickness on board. C---- +explained to me that the only medicine he served out, as he called it, +was _croton oil_; and that none of the crew came twice for treatment. + +Never having run through the blockade as the commander of a vessel +(though he was with me all the time and had as much to do with our luck +as I had), he was naturally very anxious to get safely through. There +can be no doubt that the vessel had lost much of her speed, for she had +been very hardly pushed on several occasions. This told sadly against +her, as the result will show. On the third afternoon after leaving +Nassau she was in a good position for attempting the run when night came +on. She was moving stealthily about waiting for the evening, when +suddenly, on the weather, which had been hitherto thick and hazy, +clearing up, she saw a cruiser unpleasantly near to her, which bore down +under steam and sail, and it soon became probable that the poor little +'D----n's' twin screws would not save her this time, well and often as +they had done so before. + +The cruiser, a large full-rigged corvette, was coming up hand over hand, +carrying a strong breeze, and the days of the 'D----n' seemed numbered, +when C---- tried a ruse worthy of any of the heroes of naval history. + +The wind, as I said, was very fresh, with a good deal of sea running. +On came the cruiser till the 'D----n' was almost under her bows, and +shortened sail in fine style. The moment the men were in the rigging, +going aloft to furl the sails, C---- put his plan into execution. He +turned his craft head to wind, and steamed deliberately past the +corvette at not fifty yards' distance. She, with great way on, went +nearly a quarter of a mile before she could turn. + +I have it from good authority that the order was not given to the +marines on the man-of-war's poop to fire at the plucky little craft who +had so fairly out-manoeuvred the cruiser, for out-manoeuvred she was to +all intents and purposes. The two or three guns that had been cast loose +during the chase had been partially secured, and left so while the men +had gone aloft to furl the sails, so that not a shot was fired as she +went past. Shortly after she had done so, however, the cruiser opened +fire with her bow guns, but with the sea that was running it could do no +harm, being without any top weights. The 'D----n' easily dropped the +corvette with her heavy spars astern, and was soon far ahead; so much so +that when night came on the cruiser was shut out of sight in the +darkness. + +After this the 'D----n' deserved to escape, but it was otherwise fated. +The next morning when day broke she was within three miles of one of the +new fast vessels, which had come out on her trial trip, flying light, +alas! She had an opportunity of trying her speed advantageously to +herself. She snapped up the poor 'D----n' in no time, and took her into +the nearest port. I may mention that the 'D----n' and her captain were +well known and much sought after by the American cruisers. The first +remark that the officer made on coming aboard her was: 'Well, Captain +Roberts, so we have caught you at last!' and he seemed much disappointed +when he was told that the captain they so particularly wanted went home +in the last mail. The corvette which had chased and been cheated by the +'D----n' the day before was lying in the port into which she was taken. +Her captain, when he saw the prize, said: 'I must go on board and shake +hands with the gallant fellow who commands that vessel!' and he did so, +warmly complimenting C---- on the courage he had shown, thus proving +that he could appreciate pluck, and that American naval men did not look +down on blockade-running as a grievous sin, hard work as it gave them in +trying to put a stop to it. They were sometimes a little severe on men +who, after having been fairly caught in a chase at sea, wantonly +destroyed their compasses, chronometers, &c., rather than let them fall +into the hands of the cruiser's officers. I must say that I was always +prepared, had I been caught, to have made the best of things, to have +given the officers who came to take possession all that they had fairly +gained by luck having declared on their side, and to have had a farewell +glass of champagne with the new tenant at the late owner's expense. The +treatment received by persons captured engaged in running the blockade +differed very materially. If a _bona fide_ American man-of-war of the +old school made the capture, they were always treated with kindness by +their captors. But there were among the officers of vessels picked up +hurriedly and employed by the Government a very rough lot, who rejoiced +in making their prisoners as uncomfortable as possible. They seemed to +have only one good quality, and this was that there were among them many +good freemasons, and frequently a prisoner found the advantage of having +been initiated into the brotherhood. + +The 'D----n's' crew fell into very good hands, and till they arrived at +New York were comfortable enough; but the short time they spent in +prison there, while the vessel was undergoing the mockery of a trial in +the Admiralty Court, was far from pleasant. However, it did not last +very long--not more than ten days; and as soon as they were free most of +them went back to Nassau or Bermuda ready for more work. C---- came to +England and told me all his troubles. Poor fellow! I am afraid his +services were not half appreciated as they ought to have been, for +success, in blockade-running as in everything else, is a virtue, whereas +bad luck, even though accompanied with the pluck of a hero, is always +more or less a crime not to be forgiven. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +RICHMOND DURING THE SIEGE. + + +After the excitement of the last six or eight months I could not long +rest in England, satisfied with the newspaper accounts of the goings on +in the blockade-running world. So I got the command of a new and very +fast paddle-wheel vessel, and went out again. The American Government +had determined to do everything in its power to stop blockade-running, +and had lately increased the force of blockaders on the southern coast +by some very fast vessels built at New York. Being aware of this, some +of the first shipbuilders in England and Scotland were put, by persons +engaged in blockade-running, on their mettle, to try and build steamers +to beat them, and latterly it became almost a question of speed, +especially in the daylight adventures, between blockaders and +blockade-runners. + +Some of the vessels on this side of the water were constructed +regardless of any good quality but speed, consequently their scantling +was light, and their seagoing qualities very inferior. Many of them came +to grief; two or three swamped at sea; others, after being out a few +days, struggled back into Queenstown, the lamest of lame ducks; while +some got out as far as Nassau quite unfit for any further work. + +My vessel was one of the four built by R---- and G---- of Glasgow, and +was just strong enough to stand the heavy cross sea in the Gulf Stream. +She was wonderfully fast, and, taking her all in all, was a success. On +one occasion I had a fair race in the open day with one of the best of +the new vessels that the American Government had sent out to beat +creation wherever she could meet it, and I fairly ran away from her. + +On arriving at Wilmington in my new vessel I started to have a look at +Richmond, which city was then besieged on its southern and eastern sides +by General Grant, who, however, was held in check by Lee at Petersburg, +a small town situated in an important position about eighteen miles from +the capital. To get to Richmond was not easily accomplished without +making a long _detour_ into the interior (for which we had no time), for +the outposts of the contending armies disputed possession of the last +forty miles of the railroad between Wilmington and Petersburg, the +latter town being on the line to Richmond. As telegraphic communication +was stopped, it was a difficult matter to ascertain, day by day, whether +a train could pass safely. + +We had in our party the young General Custos Lee, a nephew of the +Confederate commander-in-chief, on his way to his uncle's headquarters, +who kindly offered his assistance in getting us through. When we arrived +at a station some forty miles from Richmond we found, as we feared would +be the case, our further progress by rail impracticable, but we got hold +of a couple of waggons drawn by mules, into which we managed to stow +ourselves and baggage the latter, by the way, being of considerable +importance, as it contained several cases of drinkables, not to be +obtained for love or money where we were going to. We travelled through +all sorts of by-lanes, bumped almost to pieces for four miles, steering +in the direction of the headquarters of the cavalry outposts, which were +commanded by a celebrated raiding officer, also a nephew of the +commander-in-chief. At last we found ourselves in a beautiful green +valley surrounded by thick woods, where the general and his staff were +quartered. He had with him two or three thousand cavalry, who, in spite +of their bad clothing and somewhat hungry appearance, were as +fine-looking a body of men as one would wish to see. + +The general and his staff gave us a hearty welcome. Poor fellows, it was +all they had to offer! We on our part produced sundry cases of sardines, +Bologna sausages, and other tempting condiments wherewith to make a +feast. + +The drink we mixed in two horse buckets cleaned up for the occasion; a +dozen or so of claret, a couple of bottles of brandy, and half a dozen +of soda water, the whole cooled with two or three lumps of ice (of which +article, as if in mockery, the Southerners had heaps). All these good +things were duly appreciated, not only by our new friends, who for +months past had tasted nothing but coarse rye-bread and pork washed down +with water, but also by well-shaken travellers like ourselves. Lying on +the grass in that lovely spot, it seemed as if the war and all its +horrors were for the moment forgotten. There were several Englishmen +among the officers composing the staff, who had (they said) come out +here to see active service, which they unquestionably had found to their +hearts' content. They seemed the sort of men who would do credit to +their country. I often wonder what has become of them; in one of them I +was particularly interested. He said his name was Cavendish, but it may +have been a _nom de guerre_. + +While we were in the camp a picket came in, whose officer reported +having had a skirmish with the enemy, in which the Northerners had been +whipped. The way the cavalry outposts engaged with each other was +curious enough. The ground they met on did not admit of cavalry charges +being made, as thick underwood covered the country for miles round. So, +when they were inclined for a brush, they dismounted, tied their horses +to trees, and skirmished in very open lines, every man picking out his +special enemy. When they had had enough of it, they picked up their +killed and wounded, and, mounting their horses, rode away. + +After passing four or five hours with our cavalry friends we bade them +good-bye, and started (still accompanied by our valuable companion, the +young general) on our way to the headquarters of the army, where we were +to pass the night. It was well for us that we travelled in such good +company, for having to pass all along the outskirts of the Southern +army, we were constantly stopped and interrogated by patrols and +pickets. Besides which we were sometimes disagreeably near to the +outposts of the 'boys in blue,' as Grant's men were called. Having +arrived very late in the evening at our destination, we bivouacked under +the trees close to the headquarters of the general commanding, who was +away at the front, and not expected back till the next evening. The +rattle of musketry and the boom of heavy guns all through the night +reminded us of our vicinity to the theatre of war, and somewhat +disturbed our rest. But if we were a little nervous, we took care not to +show it. In the morning we started in our waggons, and, after travelling +a few miles across the country, came to the railway that connected the +camp with Richmond. A train shortly afterwards picked us up and landed +us at the capital of Virginia, where we took up our quarters at a +comfortable-looking hotel. There was more to drink and eat here than at +Charleston, consequently people had cheerful countenances. Liquor was, +however, dear, brandy being sold at twenty-five shillings per bottle, it +having to be run through the blockade. Here we found that the people had +that wonderful blind confidence in the Southern cause which had mainly +supported them through all difficulties. + +At this moment, though a line of earthworks hurriedly thrown up in a few +hours at Petersburg was nearly all that kept Grant's well-organised army +from entering the capital; though the necessaries of war, and even of +life, were growing alarmingly short; though the soldiers were badly fed, +and only half-clothed or protected from the inclemency of the weather +(one blanket being all that was allowed to three men), still every one +seemed satisfied that the South would somehow or other gain the day, and +become an independent nation. + +While in Richmond I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of the +talented correspondent of the 'Times,' who, although in a position to +look on calmly at passing events, was so carried away by his admiration +of the wonderful pluck shown by the Southerners, and by the general +enthusiasm of the people among whom he lived, that he allowed himself to +be buoyed up with the hope that something would eventually turn up in +their favour, and in his letters never seemed to despair. Had he done +otherwise he would have stood alone, so he swam with the tide; whereas +all of us, especially those who were mere lookers-on, should have seen +the end coming months before we were obliged to open our eyes to the +fact that it was come. Through his acquaintance with the big-wigs, we +managed to get a few of them to accept an invitation to a feed, as we +could offer luxuries such as could not be found in Richmond. + +Some of the first men in the Confederacy honoured us with their +company, and made themselves uncommonly agreeable, seeming quite a jolly +set of fellows. I fear that they have nearly all come to grief since +then, except Mr. Benjamin, the Minister of Foreign Affairs, who before +his death, which occurred several years after the time that I write, +made himself a name in England worthy of his high talents and education. + +I had the honour, while in Richmond, of being invited to a tea party by +Mrs. Davis, the President's wife, which I thought very interesting. The +ladies were all dressed in deep mourning; some (the greater part) for +the sad reason that they had lost near and dear relatives in the +wretched war; the others, I suppose, were in mourning for their +country's misfortunes. Mrs. Davis moved about the room saying something +civil to every one, while the President, though a stern-looking man who +never smiled, tried to make himself agreeable to his guests, and gave +one the idea of a thorough gentleman. I saw there military officers who +had lately come from the front, surrounded by groups of people anxious +for news; delegates from distant seceding States; messengers from Hood's +army, about which many were beginning to be anxious; sympathising +foreigners, government officials, and many others. The whole of the +conversation naturally related to the prospects of the cause, and no one +would have guessed from what he heard in President Davis's house that +the end was so near. + +I was anxious before my return to see something of the army that had so +long defended Richmond. So I only remained a few days at the capital, +after which I left it and its, alas! too confiding inhabitants, and made +my way as best I could to the headquarters of the commander-in-chief. +There I presented my letters of introduction to General Lee. + +It would perhaps be impertinence on my part to attempt to eulogise the +character of this excellent man and good soldier, who, most thoroughly +believing in the justice of the Southern cause, had sacrificed +everything he possessed in its behalf, and had thrown all his energy and +talent into the scale in its favour. Many who knew him well have done +and will continue to do justice to his patriotism and self-denial. I had +a very long conversation with him, which I wish I could repeat without +being guilty of a breach of confidence, as evidence of the sensible +notions he had formed of the state of affairs in the South. He was the +only man I met during my travels who took a somewhat gloomy view of the +military prospects of the country--of which, as a soldier, there could +be no better judge. + +After spending twenty-four hours in the camp, we went to the railway +station to see if we could get places for Wilmington. We found that the +line was in the hands of the Southerners, and that although the 'boys in +blue' had a vulgar habit of firing into the carriages as they passed, +the trains were running each night. But a train running and a +non-combatant passenger getting a place in a carriage were widely +different things, every available seat being taken up by sick and +wounded soldiers. I made a frantic effort to get into the train somehow, +and after a severe struggle succeeded in scrambling into a sort of +horse-box and sat me down on a long deal box, which seemed rather a +comfortable place to sleep on. It was pitch dark when I got into the +train, and we were obliged to keep in the dark until we had run the +gauntlet of the Northern pickets, who favoured us with a volley or two +at a long range from the hills overlooking the railway. When we were +clear of them I lighted a match, and to my horror found that I was +comfortably lounging on a coffin. I wished I had not thrown a light on +the subject, but by degrees, becoming accustomed I suppose to my +position, I sank into a comfortable sleep and was really quite sorry +when, on arriving at some station just before daylight, people came to +remove my peculiar though far from uncomfortable couch. I felt its loss +the more, for in its place they put a poor fellow wounded nearly to +death, whose moans and cries were, beyond anything, distressing. We were +a long time getting to Wilmington, as it was necessary to stop and +repair most of the bridges on the line before the train could venture +over them, an operation at which all passengers sound in wind and limb +had to assist. + +On arriving there we found all the world in a state of great excitement, +on account of there having been a terrible fire among the cotton lying +on the quays ready for embarkation, supposed to have been the work of an +incendiary. + +The recollections of my last proceedings in the blockade-running are far +from pleasant, and I shall pass them over as briefly as possible. + +When we had only the American Government cruisers to fear, we enjoyed +the excitement in the same way as a man enjoys fox-hunting (only, by the +way, we were the fox instead of the huntsmen), but when dire disease, in +the worst form that Yellow Jack could take, stalked in amongst us, and +reduced our numbers almost hourly, things became too serious to be +pleasant. + +However, before the fever showed itself we made one successful round +trip in the new vessel (in and out) in capital form, having some +exciting chases and little adventures, all very similar to what I have +described before, the vessel doing credit to her designers on all +occasions. We landed one thousand one hundred and forty bales of cotton +at Bermuda, and it was after we had started from Wilmington on our +second trip that the horrid yellow fever broke out among us. I believe +that every precaution was taken by the Government of the island to +prevent the disease from spreading, but increased by the drunkenness, +dissipation, and dirty habits of the crews of the blockade-runners, and +the wretchedly bad drainage of the town of St. George, it had lately +broken out with great violence, and had spread like wildfire, both on +the shore and among the shipping. It must have been brought on board our +ship by some of the men, who had been spending much time on shore; we +had not been twenty-four hours at sea before the fever had got deadly +hold on our crew. + +We went to Halifax, where we landed our sick and inhaled some purer air; +but it was of no avail. The fever was in the vessel and we could not +shake it off. The poor fellows as soon as we were out at sea again began +to drop off. I never can forget an incident of that voyage, which, as +it could only have happened during blockade-running times, I will +mention, melancholy though it was. Two men died in the middle watch one +night, when we were in very dangerous waters. Their bodies were wrapped +in rough shrouds, ready to be committed to the deep when daylight broke, +as we dared not show a light whereby to read the Funeral Service. I +never waited so anxiously or thought the dawn so long in coming. I was +waiting with my Prayer-book in my hands straining my eyes to make out +the service; the men with their hats off, standing by the bodies, ready +to ease them down into the sea. Our minds I fear wandered towards the +danger that existed (almost to a certainty) of a cruiser making us out +by the same light that enabled us to perform our sad office. However, as +soon as there was light enough, the service was read without any +indecent hurry, and fortunately nothing was in sight to disturb us for +several hours afterwards. + +It was miserable work. That morning about seven o'clock a man came up +from the engine-room, and while trying to say something to me fell down +in a fit, and was dead in half an hour. There was quite a panic among us +all, and as if to make things worse to the superstitious sailors, +whenever we stopped several horrid sharks immediately showed themselves +swimming round the vessel. The men lost all heart, and would I think +have been thankful to have been captured, as a means of escape from what +they believed to be a doomed vessel. Taking into consideration that if +we got into Wilmington we should, with this dreadful disease on board, +have been put into almost interminable quarantine (for the inhabitants +of Wilmington having been decimated before by yellow fever, which was +introduced by blockade-runners, had instituted the most severe sanitary +laws), I determined to go back to Halifax. + +On arriving there I was taken very ill with yellow fever, and on my +recovery made up my mind to give up blockade-running for ever and all. +The game indeed was fast drawing to a close. Its decline was caused in +the first by the impolitic behaviour of the people at Wilmington, who, +professedly acting under orders from the Confederate Government at +Richmond, pressed the blockade-runners into their service to carry out +cotton on Government account, in such an arbitrary manner that the +profit to their owners, who had been put to an enormous expense and risk +in sending vessels in, was so much reduced that the ventures hardly +paid. And when at last Fort Fisher was taken, and thus all +blockade-running entirely put an end to, the enterprise had lost much of +its charm; for, unromantic as it may seem, much of that charm consisted +in money-making. + +However, I will mention one or two instances to show what the love of +enterprise will lead men to do, and with these I will close my +narration. + +On the first night of the attack on Fort Fisher, which it may be +remembered was a failure entirely through bad management, though its +little garrison fought like lions, a blockade-runner unaware of what was +going on, finding that the blockading squadron was very near inshore and +hearing a great deal of firing, kept creeping nearer to the fort, till +she was near enough to make out what they were doing. Judging rightly +that they would never suspect that any attempt would be made to run the +blockade at such a time, she joined a detachment of gun-boats and went +deliberately in as one of them. When they, being repulsed, had steamed +away, our friend remained at anchor under the fort, much to the +astonishment of the garrison. It would have been rather awkward if the +fort had been taken, but in such times no one looks very far ahead. + +Another vessel went out from Wilmington the same night, and was +unmolested. But fortune does not always favour the brave. Fort Fisher +was at last taken _unbeknownst_, as the sailors say, to the +blockade-runners at Nassau or Bermuda, at which places the blindest +confidence was still felt in everything connected with the fortunes of +the South, and where to whisper an opinion that any mishap might happen +to Wilmington was positively dangerous. The crafty Northerners placed +the lights for going over the bar as usual. The blockade-runners came +cautiously on, and congratulating themselves at seeing no cruisers ran +gaily into the port. The usual feasting and rejoicings were about to +commence when a boat full of armed men came alongside, and astonished +them by telling them that they were in the lion's mouth. This happened +to four or five vessels before the news had reached the islands. It was +hard lines, no doubt, but quite fair play. It was the blockaders' turn +to laugh now. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +THE LAND BLOCKADE. + + +I have now come to the end of my blockade-running yarns. I have +endeavoured to avoid giving offence to anyone: to the American officers +and men who manned the cruisers I can, as a nautical man, truly and +honestly give the credit of having most zealously performed their hard +and wearisome duty. It was not their fault that I did not visit New York +at the Government's expense; but the old story that 'blockades, to be +legal, must be efficient,' is a tale for bygone days. So long as +batteries at the entrance of the port blockaded keep ships at a +respectable distance, the blockade will be broken. + +A practical suggestion that my experience during the time I was a +witness of the war in America would lead me to make is, that, both for +the purposes of war and of blockade, speed is the most important object +to attain. Towards the end of that contest, blockade-running became +much more difficult, in fact, was very nearly put a stop to, not by the +ports becoming more effectually closed to traffic, but by the sea being +literally covered with very fast vessels, who picked up many +blockade-runners at sea during the daytime, especially when they had +their heavy cargoes of cotton on board. The Americans are also perfectly +alive to the fact that, for purposes of war, speed is all important. An +American officer of rank once remarked to me: 'Give me a fifteen-knot +wooden vessel armed with four heavy guns of long range, and I'll laugh +at your lumbering iron-clads.' Perhaps he had prize-money in view when +he said so; or, what is still more important, he may have felt how +easily such vessels as those he proposed would sweep the seas of foreign +privateers. In these views I can but think he was right and far-seeing. +Time will show. + +It may have struck my readers as strange that, in a country with so +large an inland boundary, the necessaries of life and munitions of war +could not have been introduced into the Southern States by their +extensive frontiers: but it is only a just tribute to the wonderful +energy shown by the Northern Americans during the civil war, to state +that the blockade by land was as rigid as that enforced by their fleets; +and almost as much risk was run by persons who broke the land blockade +as by those who evaded the vigilance of the cruisers at sea. The courses +of the large inland rivers were protected by gun-boats, and on account +of the rapids and other impediments, such as snags, with which they were +filled, the fords or passes for boats were few and far between, and thus +easily guarded; besides which, it was always a difficult matter to avoid +the pickets belonging to either party, who were very apt to suspect a +man they found creeping about without any ostensible object, and anyone +suspected of being a spy in those days had a short shrift and a long +rope applied before he knew where he was. More from a spirit of +enterprise than from any other reason, I determined to see what the land +blockade was like, and while at Richmond, happening to meet another +adventurous individual also so inclined, we commenced our plan of +campaign. + +First of all (by the way, I ought to mention that we were both nautical +parties) we engaged a pilot, thereby meaning a man who had a canoe or +two stowed away in different parts of the woods, and who was well +acquainted with the passes on the river. Our amiable friend, the +correspondent of the 'Times.' showed so much confidence in our success +that he entrusted to our care a packet of despatches, which were +intended, if we got through successfully, to delight the eyes of the +readers of the 'Thunderer' some weeks afterwards. + +We had to buy a horse and buggy, as naturally enough no one would let +them out on hire for such an enterprise; besides, those were not days +when men let out anything on hire that they could not keep in sight. +However, we sent a man on before us, in company with the pilot, to a +station some miles from the frontier, whose business it was to bring the +trap back when we had done with it. We stowed in our haversacks a pair +of dry stockings, a good stock of tobacco, and a couple of bottles of +brandy, against the road; we also had passes to produce in the event of +questions being asked by the patrols on the Southern side of the +frontier. + +All being ready, we started, leaving Richmond at four o'clock in the +morning. We travelled on a long, dreary, dusty road all day, stopping +about noon for two hours at a free nigger's hut, where we got some yams +and milk, and about sunset arrived at the station above mentioned, at +which we were to dismiss our conveyance; and right glad we were to get +rid of it, for we were bumped to death by its dreadful oscillations. + +At this station our pilot was waiting for us. There were also +bivouacking here a picket of cavalry, who told us they had seen some of +the enemy's patrols that morning, scouring about on the opposite bank of +the river just where we proposed to land. Somehow or other, people +always seem to take a pleasure in telling you disagreeable things at a +time when you rather want encouragement than fear instilled into you. We +had some supper, consisting of eggs and bacon; and at nine o'clock, it +being then pitch dark, the pilot informed us it was time to start. I +must say I should have been more comfortable if I had been on the bridge +of my little craft, just starting over the bar at Wilmington, with the +probability of a broadside from a gun-boat saluting us in a very short +time, than where I was. But it would never do to think of going back, so +we crawled into the wood. + +Our land pilot informed us that the bank of the river, from whence we +should find a clear passage across, was about two miles distant. I never +remember seeing or feeling anything to be compared with the darkness of +that pine wood, but our guide seemed to have the eyes of a basilisk. We +formed Indian file, our guide leading, and crept along as best we could. +At last, after stealthily progressing for half an hour, a glimmer of +starlight through the trees showed us that we were getting to the +borders of the wood. + +A few minutes afterwards we were desired to lie down. Feeling helpless +as babes, we passively obeyed, and watched our guide as he moved about +like a spectre in the long grass on the banks of the Potomac, looking +for his canoe. At last he returned and whispered that the boat was all +right, and we all crept like serpents to where it was concealed. Nothing +could be heard but the wind blowing through the trees, and the +discordant noises of frogs and other denizens of the swamp. So dark was +the night that we could hardly see fifty yards across the river. I +suppose this was all in our favour; but how our guide knew the marks by +which to steer was a puzzle to me, and as I never meant to profit by +this experience I asked no questions. + +Not a word was spoken as we (myself and my friend) launched the canoe +silently into the water and seated ourselves, or rather obeyed orders +and lay down, the pilot sitting in the stern, with his face towards the +bows of the boat, having a light paddle in his hand, which he worked +wonderfully well and silently. The distance across the river was about +three miles. + +We shot ahead at a rapid pace for about five minutes, when suddenly, +bump went the canoe against something. To lie flat down was to our guide +the work of a second, and the canoe was at once transformed into a +floating log. + +Well it was so, for it seems we had struck a small boat that was +fastened astern of the gun-boat guarding the river. That the noise of +the collision had been heard on board was evident, for a sentry hailed, +'Boat ahoy!' and fired his musket, and one of those detestable bright +lights which the American men-of-war have a nasty habit of showing +flashed over the water, making everything visible for a hundred yards +round. The current of the river, however, was very strong, and I fancy +we had drifted out of the radius covered by the light, as we were +fortunately not discovered; or perhaps the diligent watchman on board +the man-of-war thought some huge crocodile or other monster had come in +contact with their boat. Be that as it may, we were safe, and twenty +minutes more paddling brought us to land on the opposite bank of the +river; but unfortunately our little adventure had thrown us out of our +line, or as we sailors should have called it, out of our course. We +hauled the canoe out of the water, and hid her in the long grass. All we +could see around us was a dismal swamp, with the dark wood in the +background. Our guide honestly told us that having been thrown out of +his 'reckoning' in regard to our position, to move from where we were +before daybreak would be madness, so we took a pull at the brandy +bottle, lighted our pipes and waited patiently, having moved well in +under cover of the long grass, so as to be out of sight of any vessel +lying in the river near to us. + +When the day dawned, our pilot after having reconnoitred told us that we +were very well placed for starting for Washington; but that it would be +impossible, on account of the patrols that were constantly watching the +river's banks, for us to move during the daytime, so we were doomed to +remain all day in the damp grass. Luckily we had put in our pockets at +last night's supper some black bread and an onion or two; so we made the +best of things, and so did the sandflies. How they did pitch into us, +especially into me! I suppose the good living I had been accustomed to +on board the blockade-runner, or my natural disposition to good +condition, made me taste sweet. Several times during that fearful day I +was tempted to rush out from my hiding-place, and defying patrols, +gun-boat's crew, and all authorities, make my escape from that place of +torture. + +Anyone who has experienced the necessity of remaining quiet under such +an infliction as an attack of millions of sandflies on a hot sunny day +will appreciate my feelings. About one o'clock we got as a diversion +from our tormentors a great fright. A boat's crew of a gun-boat lying +about a mile distant from our retreat landed, and out of sheer idleness +set fire to the grass about a hundred yards from where we were lying +concealed. + +We heard the crackling of the grass and thought of leaving our +concealment at the risk of discovery; but our guide wisely remarked that +the wind was the wrong way to bring the fire towards our hiding-place, +so we felt safe. The feeling of security was more pleasant, because we +distinctly heard the men belonging to the gun-boat conversing with +others, who clearly were patrols on the river's bank. + +The evening at last closed in, and as soon as it was quite dark we moved +on, and after struggling through a thick wood for half an hour, got on +the high road to Washington. We travelled by night, meeting occasional +patrols, whom we dodged by either lying down or getting behind trees +till they had passed. + +We concealed ourselves carefully during the day, and on the third +morning before daylight we were within half a mile of the city. As we +got near the bridge close outside Washington, we tried our best to look +like the rest of the people who were going on their ordinary business; +and though somewhat severely scrutinised by the guard we managed to pass +muster, and got safely into Washington, footsore, hungry, and regularly +done up. + +We went to a small inn that had been recommended to us when we were in +Richmond, where probably they had some Southern proclivities. No +questions were asked as to where we came from, though, I take it, the +people of the house had a shrewd guess. We found ourselves among friends +and perfectly safe from meddling inquiries. + +Thus the land blockade was run. I do not think much experience was +gained by this particularly unpleasant exploit, which after all there +was no very great difficulty in performing, and I certainly prefer my +own element. + +After a short stay we made our way easily to New York, not feeling any +anxiety from the fact of our being staunch Southerners in our opinions, +inasmuch as there were numbers of sympathising friends wherever we went, +more perhaps than the authorities were aware of. I stayed a few days in +New York to recruit my strength after the fatigue of the journey, and +saw all the sights and enjoyed all the pleasures of the most delightful +city in the world, except perhaps Paris and London. I shall not attempt +to give my readers any description of New York. This has already been +done by abler pens than mine. + +While in New York I was greatly struck with the calm confidence of the +bulk of the Northerners in the ultimate success of their arms against +the South. If I gained nothing else by running the land blockade, I at +least got an insight into the enormous resources possessed by the North, +and a knowledge of the unflinching determination with which the Federals +were prepared to carry on the struggle to the end. I must confess that I +left New York with my confidence that the Confederates would achieve +their independence very much shaken. + +Not being desirous of going through the risk and inconvenience of +running the land blockade again, I returned to Nassau by steamer from +New York. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +I ENTER THE TURKISH NAVY. + + +After superintending, as it were, the adventures just detailed, I found +that there was still a year to pass before my time for service as a +post-captain came on; so I determined on making a Continental tour to +fill up the space. After wandering about in different countries, I more +by accident than design visited Constantinople. + +While there, I called upon that great statesman Fuad Pasha, the Grand +Vizier of the Ottoman Empire, to whom I presented my letters of +introduction. He received me most cordially, and, during our +conversation, mentioned that for some years Turkey had had to deal with +a serious insurrection in the island of Crete, which it was found +difficult to suppress, owing to the assistance from without which the +revolutionary party received from Greece; also on account of the +somewhat doubtful laws existing as to blockade-running. For, although +Turkish men-of-war were continually on the look-out, vessels mostly +under the Greek flag, carrying warlike stores, provisions, &c., evaded +the watch of the cruisers on one pretext or another, and so managed to +keep a lively communication with the insurrectionary subjects of the +Sultan in Crete. Only one vessel had been captured _in flagrante +delicto_ after a sharp fight, and had been condemned as a lawful prize. + +The Turkish authorities were told that, according to international law, +a blockade-running vessel could not be followed more than ten miles from +the coast, though having been seen breaking the blockade, and that as +soon as a blockade-runner was within four miles of any island not +belonging to Turkey, she could not be touched, &c. &c.; in fact, laws +were _fabricated_ to defend the blockade-running, which fed the +revolution to such an extent that, while it continued, it was hopeless +to attempt to put down the revolt. + +I accidentally hinted to His Highness, Fuad Pasha, that I thought the +blockade-running could be put a stop to without infringing any law, +especially where laws were so elastic. He seemed much struck with my +remark, and asked me to call on him again in a few days. Now I had +merely mentioned casually what I thought. I had no idea of anything +serious resulting from our interview. I was indeed surprised on my +return to His Highness by his saying: 'I have consulted His Majesty the +Sultan, who desires me to tell you that if you would wish to take +service with the Ottoman Government, arrangements can be made whereby +you can do so, only you must take the risk and responsibility of +offending your own people.' + +I had to consider a little before replying. I bore in mind that there +were some two hundred and fifty post-captains in the English navy +clamouring for employment, and that there were at the moment I speak of +only about forty employed. I remembered that for twenty-four years an +English officer of the same rank as myself had held the post now offered +to me, namely, that of Naval Adviser to the Turkish Government, that the +post was just vacant through the retirement of Sir Adolphus Slade (who +had served honourably for twenty years, and had retired from old age). I +calculated in those days of profound peace there was more probability of +active service in the Eastern world than elsewhere. So I answered: +'Well, your Highness, I am ready if the terms offered me are +satisfactory.' + +I may say they proved most satisfactory; so, to make a long story +short, I accepted and was booked as a Turkish employe for five years, +always retaining my rank and position as an English naval officer, and +my nationality as a British subject. + +I found afterwards, as regards my position as an English naval officer, +I had somewhat reckoned without my host. It seems that this post was +considered by the English Admiralty as one of their choice gifts, and +many were the applicants for it on Sir A. Slade's retirement, so much so +that their lordships made great capital of this appointment, and were +furious at my action in the matter. They said I had 'cut out' a good old +servant to whom they had intended to give it. They suggested my coming +home at once, &c. &c. I didn't see it in the same light as their +lordships, and I signified my determination to remain where I was; for +which, as will be seen, they paid me off in course of time. Luckily, I +could afford by the arrangement I had made with the Turkish Government +to be in the Admiralty's bad books, and even the frowns of the English +Ambassador did not affect me a bit. I believe they called me +'adventurer,' 'artful dodger,' &c., but it must be remembered that I was +in every way as much entitled to this position as the Admiralty 'pet,' +whoever he may have been. + +From the day of signing my contract (which has been constantly renewed) +to the time I write, some sixteen years, I never have had cause to +regret the step I took. + +Shortly after my installation as vice-admiral in the Turkish navy, it +was decided that I should be sent to Crete to put a stop to the +blockade-running. 'Set a thief to catch a thief,' as one of my, what may +be called, unfriendly critics has written about me, and the remark was +_ben trovato_ at all events, for I certainly did know something about +blockade-running. + +I accordingly hoisted my flag in a fine fifty-gun wooden frigate, and +arrived at Suda Bay, the principal port of Crete, where six or seven +Turkish men-of-war were stationed, of which I took command. Here I heard +all the naval officers had to say about the blockade, the impunity with +which it was carried on, &c. I found, as I before mentioned, that the +Turkish naval officers' hands were tied by all sorts of imaginary +difficulties. They had most zealously done their duty while trying to +stop the blockade-running. They had shown great pluck and endurance, but +they always feared to break the law and so get the ever-bullied Turkish +Government into trouble. Here I also heard of the triumphant manner in +which the blockade-runners left the ports of Greece. How the Mayors of +Syra, Poros, and other Greek towns, conducted, with flags flying, bands +playing, and the hurrahs of the entire population, the hitherto +triumphant blockade-running captains and crews to their ships, on the +way to feed the flame of revolt against a nation with whom the Greeks +professed to be on most friendly terms. + +I heard all this, and was moreover told that if the blockade-running was +stopped, the insurgents in Crete would at once lay down their arms for +want of food and warlike stores. + +I determined to stop it at all risks. + +Picking out of my squadron a couple of fast despatch boats and a quick +steaming corvette to accompany my flag-ship, I started on a cruise, and +once out of sight of the harbour of Suda, steamed straight for Syra. Now +this port had been the principal delinquent in fitting out and sending +blockade-runners to Crete; so I thought that by going as it were to the +starting-point, I should be somewhat nearer to my quarry than by waiting +for them in Crete. Circumstances favoured me in the most marvellous +manner. As morning broke the day after I left Suda, I was about eight +miles from Syra harbour, steaming slowly, when I saw what made my heart +leap into my mouth, viz., a regular blockade-runner exactly of the type +used in the American war, going at full speed for Syra harbour. + +He was _outside_ my little squadron, and must pass within a mile or so +ahead to get to his port. + +A somewhat similar position I have so often seen, in fact, taken part +in, of a craft running for dear life into Charleston or Wilmington, +across the bows of blockading ships just at daylight. I saw that he was +firing up all he knew, and was going at a tremendous speed. I signalled +to my despatch boats to chase, and when my flag-ship was within about a +mile and a half I fired a blank gun to make him show his colours. To +this he replied by firing his long Armstrong gun with such effect that +the shot cut away the stanchion of the bridge on which I was standing. +Now, gallant fellow as he was, in doing this he was wrong; he should +have shown his colours and run (if he knew he wasn't honest) for the +shelter of a neutral flag, but not fired at a man-of-war, who in her +duty as forming part of the police of the seas fires a blank gun asking +for colours from a suspicious vessel. He undoubtedly committed an act of +piracy and gave me a splendid hold on him. + +My despatch boats chased the blockade-runner close to Syra harbour, both +parties keeping up a warm running fight. When I recalled them, I found +that this vessel was named the 'Enossis.' Her captain was a most +courageous Greek, who thought of nothing but carrying his cargo and +fighting to the last for his ship, evidently ignoring all laws, nor did +he even think that on this occasion someone was acting against him who +knew something of the rules of blockade, and who could have told him +that an armed blockade-runner is a pirate, that is to say, if she uses +her arms against a man-of-war. + +I was so satisfied with what had occurred that I sent off one of my +despatch boats to the Governor of Crete, telling him that he need not +fear the blockade-runners any more, as they (the two others were lying +in Syra harbour) had put themselves in so false a position that at all +events for several weeks I could detain them at Syra. I knew that one +week would suffice to stop the revolt in Crete, as without the +blockade-runners the insurrectionists had positively nothing to eat. + +(I may as well at once observe that I was perfectly justified in saying +this, for within three days, no blockade-runner arriving at the island, +the insurgents laid down their arms and _begged for bread_. And so ended +the Cretan revolt.) + +Having recalled the vessels I had sent to chase the 'Enossis' into Syra +harbour, I steamed in the roads off that port, and anchored with three +vessels. + +I then sent to the authorities on shore at Syra, and demanded their +assistance in arresting a vessel that had taken shelter in their port, +which, as I stated in my despatch, had committed an act of piracy on the +high seas, by firing at my flagship when the latter called upon her to +show her colours by firing a blank gun. At the same time I informed the +authorities of Syra that, as the companions of the 'Enossis' were in the +harbour, I should allow none of them to go to sea until the question of +that vessel's illegal action was cleared up. By doing this I took the +wind out of the sails of the authorities of Syra. They of course were +furious, and at once despatched a vessel to Athens for orders. At the +same time they made a semblance of meeting my demand by stating that the +'Enossis' should be tried by international law. They also requested me +to make my protest and to leave Syra, as the populace were in a state of +excitement beyond their power of control. In this request all the +Foreign Consuls joined. + +I positively declined to leave; had I consented I am convinced the +'Enossis' and her companions would have left for Crete as soon as I was +out of sight. In the meantime I sent a despatch boat to Smyrna with +telegrams for Constantinople asking for assistance, stating my +position. I remained off Syra with two ships, one being a despatch boat, +watching the movements of the three blockade-runners, to whom I notified +that I would sink them if they attempted to leave the port. + +I often wonder they didn't make a rush for it on the first night of my +arrival, when I was almost alone. The Greeks never want pluck. If they +had done so, one vessel out of the three would certainly have escaped, +taken food to the insurgents, and capsized all my calculations. + +It merely corroborated my view of blockade-running peoples, namely, that +they go for gain (some perhaps for love of enterprise); don't fight +unless very hard pressed, and not always then if they are wise; that is +what it should be. It is outrageous that adventurous persons not engaged +in war should become belligerents, as well as carriers of arms and +provisions to an enemy. + +The first night I passed off Syra was one of great anxiety, as I had +promised the Governor of Crete that no blockade-runner should go to the +island. + +In the morning a small steamer arrived from Athens with a Turkish +official on board. He came to me pale as a sheet, and told me that as he +left the Piraeus a Greek frigate was on the point of leaving for Syra, +whose captain, officers, and crew had sworn to bring back Hobart Pasha +dead or alive. Half an hour afterwards I got under weigh, and as I +steamed about in the offing I saw the Greek frigate coming round the +point. + +It was a moment of intense excitement. The tops of the houses at Syra +were covered with people. It looked like the old story of the +'Chesapeake' and 'Shannon,' where the people turned out to see the fine +sport, and the band played, 'Yankee doodle dandy, oh!' + +However, I steamed towards my supposed enemy, went almost alongside of +him, expecting momentarily to receive his broadside, when to my +astonishment and I must say satisfaction he steamed into the anchorage, +and let go three anchors. This didn't look like fighting. I found +afterwards that the Greek frigate had _no powder_ on board. It was a +shame to put her captain in so false a position, as everyone knows what +gallant stuff the Greeks are made of, and swagger is a mistake where +real pluck exists. + +I felt for him very much, as he seemed so sorry for himself. + +A few days after this I was reinforced by six or seven Turkish +ironclads, and in fact commanded the position in spite of all +remonstrances on the part of foreigners and other declared enemies of +Turkish rule. + +We went through the laughable farce of a trial of the 'Enossis' on board +a vessel lying in port (I dare not land), which of course ended in +nothing. + +The Governor-General of Crete sent all the insurgents in Turkish ships +to me to deal with, and this was the most difficult thing I had to do. +Poor beggars, they were fine though misguided men. After giving them a +good feed, for they were terribly hungry, I distributed them among the +neighbouring Greek islands, and so finished the affair. + +There are those who say that my acts off Syra were illegal, especially +as to stopping the 'Enossis's' companions from leaving the port. All I +can say is, the Greeks _en masse_, from the Government downwards, had +paid so little regard to international law during three years, as +regards their action in encouraging revolution in the territory of a +friendly country, that a little stretch of the law on my part was quite +justifiable. + +While on the subject of Crete, which is always supposed to be in a +chronic state of revolt, I would say a few words. + +I maintain that the Cretan people, of whom I know a good deal, _do not +want an alliance_ with Greece, and if the always over-excited ambitious +Greek committees would only keep quiet and give up agitation, the +Cretans would be the happiest community in the Mediterranean. + +While I commanded for more than a year a large squadron of Turkish +ironclads stationed in Crete, I had many opportunities of judging as to +the sentiments of the Cretans. + +I never saw a more orderly, well-disposed people if let alone by +agitators. + +On my return to Constantinople the reception I received from several of +the European Powers was most gratifying. + +I received high honours in the shape of decorations, for having as they +said by my conduct prevented a European war. My own country alone stood +aloof from me. The Admiralty went so far as to tell me that if I did not +immediately return to England, my name would be erased from the list of +naval officers. An officer of high rank, a member of the Board of +Admiralty, wrote to me a semi-official letter, in which he said, 'Unless +you leave the Turkish service, you will be scratched off the list.' +Feeling exceedingly hurt at such treatment, at a moment when I expected +encouragement for having maintained the honour of my country while +acting as a naval officer should have done, I wrote to him, 'You may +scratch and be d----d.' This letter was, I think, very unfairly quoted +against me some time afterwards in the House of Commons. However, my +name was erased from the list of naval officers, and was not replaced +there for several years. I was well and kindly received by His Majesty +the Sultan, promoted to the rank of full admiral, and settled down to my +work as a Turkish naval officer, head of the staff of the Imperial Navy. + +It becomes a most delicate task to continue sketches of my life during +the latter time that I have been in Turkey, because such anecdotes +strike nearer home, that is to say, become more what may be called +personal as regards my public and private doings. However, I will +endeavour, somewhat briefly perhaps, to do so in a way that may be +interesting to my readers, and offensive to no one. + +It is not difficult to serve such masters as the Turks; they are always +kind and considerate to strangers in their service, and if one avoids +offending them in certain matters on which they are supposed to have +prejudices, and if one while giving advice avoids offensive censure, it +is easy to get on. While serving in Turkey my principal business has +been relating to naval matters, regarding which I have had to propose +certain progressive changes such as are being constantly introduced into +foreign navies, more especially the English. These changes proposed by +me have generally been accepted, and I can but think that many +beneficial alterations have been introduced into the Turkish Navy +tending to improve that service. + +His Majesty the Sultan has named me one of his special A.D.C.'s, and in +that capacity I have had at times and still have important duties. + +His Majesty always treats me with the greatest kindness and +consideration, and I have a sincere respect and affection for him, both +as a sovereign, and, if I may presume to say so, as a friend. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +THE WAR WITH RUSSIA. + + +In 1877 the war with Russia broke out, and through the absence of any +powerful naval enemy, little in the way of hard fighting was done; still +some very important service was performed by the Turkish fleet, much +more so than is generally known. + +In the first place we had to hold the Black Sea, with its extensive +sea-board. We defended Sulina and Batoum against Russian attack by land, +and by torpedo on the sea. We had to watch the little swift packet-boats +equipped as men-of-war, which constantly made a rush from Sebastopol and +Odessa (as they did, by the way, in the Crimean War, when twenty to +thirty English and French ships were watching them), and when they could +get a chance burnt some unfortunate little coasting craft, sending the +crews of such vessels adrift in small boats to make the best of their +way to the nearest land. In addition to the above-named services, the +Turkish fleet was called upon constantly to transport large bodies of +troops from port to port. + +On one memorable occasion the Turkish men-of-war and transports conveyed +the whole of Suleiman Pasha's army, consisting of forty thousand men, +from the coast of Albania to Salonica, a distance of some eight hundred +miles, within the short space of twelve days, a feat, I venture to say, +unheard of in the naval annals of this century. Sulina was held safely +by the Turkish fleet until the end of the war. + +Batoum could not have been held by Dervish Pasha and his army had not +the Turkish fleet been there to help him. In short, that fleet kept the +command of the Black Sea during the whole of that disastrous war, +cruising at times in the most fearful weather I have ever experienced, +for twelve months in a sea almost without ports of refuge; and it is a +remarkable fact that the Turks never lost a ship, constantly attacked +though they were, as I shall show hereafter, by the plucky Russian +torpedo boats, who frequently made rushes at them from Muscovite ports, +and only saved from destruction through the precautions taken against +these diabolical machines, which come and go like flashes of lightning. +It is true that _in the Danube_ two small Turkish vessels of war were +destroyed by torpedoes, but it must be borne in mind the Danube was +under _military_ law, and that the look-out kept on board these vessels +was not by any means what it should have been. + +But I must repeat, as so many contrary reports have been spread, that no +Turkish ironclad was injured by torpedoes in the Black Sea. + +I will explain hereafter how many attacks were made with no result +whatever. Some few days before the war broke out I was sent to examine +the Danube from a professional point of view, and it was soon made clear +to me that much could be done, in the way of defending that great +estuary, had nautical experience and the splendid material of which the +Turkish sailor is made of been properly utilised. But alas! I found +that, contrary to the views of His Majesty the Sultan, a line of action +was followed showing that pig-headed obstinacy and the grossest +ignorance prevailed in the councils of those who had supreme command in +that river. I found that my advice and that of competent Turkish +officers, in comparatively subordinate positions like myself, was +entirely ignored, and that few, if any, proper steps were taken to +prevent the enemy's progress into Roumania, and later on, to his +passing the Danube almost unopposed. + +On the day that war was declared I was at Rustchuk, the headquarters of +the Turkish army. On that occasion I made a final effort, by making +propositions which events have proved would have arrested the advance of +the enemy. + +I was simply told to mind my own business, and ordered to immediately +rejoin my ships, which were at the moment lying at the Sulina mouth of +the Danube. + +It was all very well to tell me to do this; but to do so was apparently +not so easy of execution, for the reason that the Russians had no sooner +declared war than they took possession of the Lower Danube, by planting +fortifications on the hills commanding the river in the neighbourhood of +Galatz and Ibraila, at the same time laying down torpedoes across the +river in great quantities (as regards the latter, it was so reported, +though in my opinion it was no easy matter so quickly to place +torpedoes). I informed the military commanders of this; their answer +was, 'Go, and rejoin your ships _via_ Varna, if you will only get out of +this; we don't want your advice.' By this time, however, my professional +pride was wounded, and I determined to do something to show my contempt +for them all. + +The only thing left for me to do for the moment was a little +blockade-running, so I resolved to bring my ship back past the Russian +barrier in the Lower Danube at all risks, instead of tamely returning by +land. So great was the jealousy against me that I almost think the +Turkish authorities commanding in the Danube would have been pleased if +I had failed, and so come to grief. I had with me a very fast +paddle-steamer called the 'Rethymo'; her captain and crew were what the +Turks always are--brave as lions and obedient as lambs. + +I took on board a river pilot, whom I gave to understand that if he got +me on shore I would blow his brains out. Before starting I sent for my +officers and crew and told them of the perhaps unnecessary dangers we +should run in passing the Russian barrier, and gave to all the option of +leaving or going on. They decided to a man to go on. I arranged my time +so as to pass Ibraila and Galatz during the night. We arrived to within +thirty miles of the former place at about five o'clock in the evening, +when I was met by a Turkish official who was leaving Ibraila on the war +having broken out. He was fearfully excited, and begged of me on his +knees not to go to what he called certain destruction. He told me that +he had seen the Russians laying down torpedoes that same day, that the +batteries were numerous, and that they were aware of my coming, &c., all +of which I took with a considerably large grain of salt, and left him +lamenting my mad folly, as he called it. + +Now I must be candid. I did not _feel_ the danger. I calculated that to +put down torpedoes in a current such as was in the Danube would be a +matter of time, and probably they would not succeed after all. I had a +plan in my head for passing the batteries, so as to render them +harmless. So in reality I was about to attempt no very impossible feat. +Three hours after dusk we sighted the lights of Ibraila. The current was +running quite five knots an hour; that, added to our speed of fifteen, +made us to be going over the ground at about twenty knots. It was pitch +dark, and I think it would have puzzled the cleverest gunner to have hit +us, though they might have done so by chance. I determined not to give +them that chance, by going so close under the bank that the guns could +hardly be sufficiently depressed to hit us. + +As we approached the batteries to my horror a flash of red flame came +out of the funnel (that fatal danger in blockade-running), on which +several rockets were thrown up from the shore, and a fire was opened at +where the flame had been seen. Meanwhile we had shot far away from the +place, and closed right under the batteries. I heard the people talking; +every now and then they fired shot and musketry, but I hardly heard the +_whiz_ of the projectiles. My principal anxiety was that we might get on +one of the many banks so common in the Danube, and I had perhaps a +_little_ fear of torpedoes, especially when we passed the mouths of the +little estuaries that run into the Danube; once we just touched the +ground, but thank goodness we quickly got free, and though fired at by +guns and rifles, went on unhurt. It took us exactly an hour and forty +minutes to pass dangerous waters, and the early summer morning was +breaking as we cleared all danger. I could not resist turning round and +firing a random shot at the banks studded with Russian tents, _now that +I was able to breathe freely again_. + +I must say that my pilot, whom I at first suspected of being a traitor +in Russian pay, behaved splendidly. + +He told me he had never passed such a night of fear and anxiety: what +with my cocked pistol at his head and the constant fear of putting the +vessel on a bank, he certainly had had a bad time. However, I rewarded +him well. On arrival at Toultcha, a small town near the mouth of the +Danube, still held by the Turks, I found telegrams from headquarters at +Rustchuk (the place I had left), inquiring if Hobart Pasha had passed +Ibraila and Galatz, and ordering that if he had done so he was +immediately to leave the Danube. + +I cannot express my annoyance, as even at that moment I could have +brought a couple of small iron-clads that were lying at Sulina into the +river and played 'old Harry' with the Russian army, then advancing into +Roumania, _via_ Galatz. The bridge near Galatz could certainly have been +destroyed. It was hard on the gallant Turks, hard on the Sultan and his +government, and hard on me, to see such magnificent chances thrown away. +From that moment I trembled for the result of the war. I felt that, +although the Turks had a splendid army, and a fleet even for a +first-class European Power to be proud of, the obstinacy and stupidity +of the commanders of the Danube were sure to cause disaster. + +Unhappily my prognostications came true. In war the first blow is half +the battle, and it was sad to see such glorious troops out-manoeuvred at +the very outset. His Majesty the Sultan in his wisdom has justly +punished by banishment and disgrace these men who, instead of covering +the Turkish nation with glory through the deeds of its army, were the +cause of the defeat of the finest troops in the world. That the +Russians might and would have been beaten, had the means in the hands of +those commanding the Turkish army being properly utilised, is as clear +as day. However, it is not my business to comment on such matters. + +I now return to my own element, and will endeavour to describe some of +the occurrences of the war in the Black Sea. The Russians had three +lines of action in those waters. First, to capture Sulina, and to +destroy the squadron lying at anchor in its roadstead; second, to +capture Batoum and its much-envied harbour; third, the somewhat +undignified action of sending out fast vessels, mostly mail-boats, armed +with a couple of guns, their object being to destroy the Turkish +coasting trade. These vessels were most difficult to catch, as they +always watched their opportunity to slip out of their strongholds when +the Turkish ships were employed carrying troops, or otherwise engaged. +There was, I venture to think, some illegality in this conduct of the +Russian mail-boats. + +These vessels were not regular men-of-war, and they did not take their +prizes into port for adjudication, as is usual in war, always burning +what they could catch and capture. However, during war I suppose all +must be considered as fair play. While on the subject, I will recount +one or two exploits performed by these enterprising mail-boats. When +lying off Sulina, one of the ironclad corvettes under my command arrived +from Constantinople, where her captain reported having chased a +well-known Russian mail-steamer called the 'Vesta'; that they had +exchanged a few shots, that he had not followed her because his deck was +loaded with guns for the Sulina batteries. I thought no more about it +till about a fortnight afterwards I saw in the 'Times' a paragraph +headed, 'Turkish ironclad driven off and nearly destroyed by the Russian +mail-boat cruiser "Vesta."' This paragraph, which was founded on the +official report of the captain of the 'Vesta,' was most sensational. It +gave a graphic description of how the 'Vesta' had engaged at close +quarters a Turkish ironclad, killing her crew; how officers in European +uniform had been seen directing the working of the ironclad's guns, &c.; +how her sides were crimson with the torrents of blood pouring from her +decks, and how she would have been surely captured had the 'Vesta' been +provided with sufficient ammunition to enable her to continue the bloody +fight. It added that the gallant Russian commander was received with the +greatest enthusiasm on his arriving at Sebastopol, and immediately +promoted to high rank and covered with decorations. + +I could hardly believe my eyes when I read this utter nonsense. I know +the Russians; they are brave and loyal fellows, and few indeed are there +among them who have done (to say the least of it) so foolish an act as +to make so unfounded a report. + +However, the commander, whose name I will not mention, did not long wear +his laurels. I suppose he trusted to the Turks saying nothing about it; +but the truth was at last made public. A court-martial was assembled to +try the case, and I believe he was dismissed from the service and +deprived of his decorations. At all events I know for certain that he +was disgraced by his superiors, and held up to ridicule by his brother +officers. Serve him right! Swagger is always an error, and I don't think +naval officers are generally given to it. + +The next exploit of these cruisers I shall refer to was one that came +under my own eyes, and was exceedingly interesting. + +I was anchored with my flag-ship, a fine thirteen knot ironclad, and a +couple of other vessels, at a port some few miles to the north of Varna, +taking in coals, when the look-out man reported that he saw on the +horizon a column of smoke. I knew that this was not a Russian cruiser, +because these vessels always burnt smokeless coal. I guessed, however, +what it was, namely, that one of the Russian cruisers was burning an +unfortunate coasting vessel. On looking more closely from the mast-head +of the flag-ship, I saw the masts and two funnels of a steamer very near +to the burning ship. The cruiser was somewhat in shore of the place +where I was lying. He seems to have made my squadron out about the same +time I had seen him, and at once made tracks, as the Americans say, to +get out to sea. In doing so he had to near us considerably, so much so +that before steam was ready in the flag-ship I could pretty well discern +what the enemy was. Some persons may be surprised to hear that the +marauding vessel was no less a craft than the magnificent yacht of the +Emperor of All the Russias, called the 'Livadia,' which had condescended +to the somewhat undignified work of capturing small Turkish coasting +craft. Who can fancy the 'Victoria and Albert' being sent to sea, during +a war between England and France, to capture and destroy small coasting +craft on the French shores! However, there was the fact; it was the +'Livadia,' and no mistake. And now commenced one of the most interesting +chases I have ever seen. On our starting the yacht was about four miles +ahead of us, steering a course that would take her straight to +Sebastopol. She had got through all the necessary dangerous manoeuvres of +crossing our bows, from her having been inshore of us, before we moved. + +The weather was lovely, not a ripple on the water, dead calm. + +We commenced the chase at 4.30 p.m. Unfortunately our decks were loaded +with coal; however, we made a clean thirteen knots. At first it seemed +as if we were coming up with the chase, so much so that I felt inclined +to fire the long bow gun at her. But I always think and I say from +blockade-running experience that firing more or less injures a vessel's +speed; so I refrained from doing so. As night closed in a beautiful moon +rose and made everything as clear as day. The equality of our speed was +most remarkable, inasmuch as the distance between us did not vary a +hundred yards in an hour. All night we were watching, measuring +distances with nautical instruments, &c., hoping at moments that we were +nearer, despairing at others that she was gaining from us. We threw +overboard fifty or sixty tons of coal, to no avail; we could not get +within shot of the 'Livadia,' to capture which I would have given all I +possessed. As day broke we saw the crew of the 'Livadia' busily employed +throwing overboard coal and water. Sebastopol was in sight, and she was +running for dear life to that haven of safety. Lightening her had +certainly a good effect, for it was sadly evident to me that on doing so +she drew ahead a little, but very little. Now I hoped she would burst +her boiler or break down ever so little; but so it was not fated, and +the Emperor's yacht escaped by the skin of her teeth into Sebastopol, +under the protection of batteries that opened a tremendous fire on my +ship on my approaching, forgetful of their existence. I was obliged to +clear out of that pretty sharply or we should have been sunk. + +An ironclad corvette that accompanied me, though some miles astern at +the finish, ran so close in that she had her rudder shot away, and we +had the unpleasant task of towing her out under a fire more like a +hailstorm of shot and shell than anything I can compare it to. I am told +the 'Livadia' would have shown fight. I have no doubt she would; +Russians always fight well: but I think the result would not have been +doubtful, and the Emperor's crockery and glass, to say nothing of the +magnificent gettings-up in the cabins, would have lost much of their +lustre during an engagement. So the glory of taking the Emperor's yacht +into the Bosphorus was not to be mine. I cannot express my +disappointment at losing such a chance. The only consolation I have is +that I really believe the brave Russians would have blown her up, rather +than allow such a disgrace to fall on their flag. + +Since the war a Russian naval officer told me that he had under his +command at Sebastopol, on the day of my chasing the 'Livadia' into that +port, seven torpedo boats, with which he volunteered to go out and +attack us. His request was not allowed. We discussed at some length the +probable result. These are my views and arguments. I said to him, 'When +I saw your boats coming out I should have steamed away. Now the speed of +my frigate is thirteen knots. You would probably have had a speed of +nineteen to twenty at most. Thus your rate of approaching me would have +been six knots, no great speed with which to approach a vessel armed +with Nordenfelt guns, and six other guns also, _en barbette_, firing +grape, shell, &c. I am convinced we should have destroyed all the +torpedo boats.' 'Well, then,' said the Russian officer, 'I should have +followed and attacked you during the night.' 'There again,' I said, 'I +think you would have failed, because before dark you could not have got +near enough to me, on account of the opposition you would have met with +from my fire, to remark the course I steered after sunset, which course +I should have frequently changed during the darkness. A ship cannot be +seen in the dark if she shows no light at more than five hundred yards' +distance, and a moving ship would have been most difficult to hit; +besides which, if I had stopped and put down my defences, what could you +have done?' This discussion ended in the Russian officer admitting that +he did not think he could have done much. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +THE TURKISH FLEET DURING THE WAR. + + +To return to the doings of the Turkish fleet in the Black Sea during the +war, Sulina was a point from the beginning always aimed at by the +Russians. In fact, according to my humble ideas, Russia went to war to +get possession of Bessarabia, the key of the Danube, and Batoum, the key +to Asia Minor, and in a great measure to our Indian possessions. I think +the sentimental story of massacres in Bulgaria was merely a blind +whereby to catch the sympathetic support of Europe, and more especially +the English philanthropists. I think this, because when the most awful +cruelties were committed by the Bulgarians on the Turks _after_ the war, +we heard no outcry about massacres. However, I must not introduce +politics into Sketches from a sailor's life; such would be out of place. +Constant attacks were made by land and by sea on Sulina, which was held +and defended by Turkish ships and their crews, who manned the small +batteries they had planted at the mouth of the river. To the Russians, +to destroy the Turkish squadron lying off that port was of great +importance, as Sulina is entirely surrounded by water and great +impassable marshes, which extend far inland, through which marshes the +Danube runs, and thus can always be defended by ships. + +The Turkish squadron generally consisted of five or six ironclads, and +as the Russians had not ships wherewith to attack these ironclads, +torpedo attacks (of which so much was and is expected) was their only +chance. + +My idea of defending these vessels when at anchor was by a cordon of +guard-boats, with ropes made fast between them, so as to catch any +attacking torpedo boat, either by fouling her screw as she advanced, or +by stopping entirely her progress. Moreover, a torpedo boat thus stopped +would, by catching the rope, draw the guard-boat on either side of her, +or right on top of her. I must admit that while torpedoes at that time +were supposed to be in their infancy, the defence prepared against their +attack was also very much in its infancy, so these preparations were of +the most primitive description. + +The squadron, as I said, consisted of five vessels, which had been in +the habit of standing out to sea every night, to avoid torpedo attacks. +On the occasion I am writing about, they had returned to the anchorage +on account of bad weather. A Russian steamer with five torpedo boats in +tow started (as we afterwards learnt) from Odessa to hunt for the +Turkish squadron, which, it was known to them through their spies, was +in the habit of cruising off Serpent's Island, about eight miles from +Odessa. The Muscovites were unable to find their enemy, and I don't +wonder at it, for they were not in their usual cruising ground; even had +they been there, to find them would have been difficult, as the Turkish +ships always cruised in open order, burnt smokeless coal, and showed no +lights. On being disappointed in finding what she wanted at sea, the +Russian vessel steamed towards the anchorage off Sulina. As the weather +was bad, her commander decided not to attack, and I fancy had to cast +off his torpedo boats. + +One of these boats, if not more (I have never been able to ascertain +precisely what happened to the five torpedo boats that left Odessa), +made a dash at the Turkish squadron; the weather not permitting him to +use his Whitehead, he decided to try what his pole torpedo would do. As +he approached the head-most vessel, he found (as he explained afterwards +to me) that _something_ stopped his way, and he saw at the same time +several black objects approaching him. Nothing daunted, he struggled to +get close to the bows of the ironclad; when he got as near as he could +manage he fired his torpedo, without, however, doing any harm to his +enemy. Scarcely had he done this when he found himself in the water and +his boat gone from under him: the real facts being that the black +objects he had seen were the guard-boats, which were closing on him, the +ropes that connected them together having fouled his screw, and caused +the disaster; his boat was capsized and went to the bottom. Four or five +of her crew were drowned, as he would have been, had he not been fished +out of the water by the Turkish guard-boats, and made prisoner. + +The name of this daring naval officer was Putskin. His cool courage was +very amusing. When interrogated, while still in a half-drowned +condition, he exclaimed in excellent English, 'Why the devil didn't I +blow that ship up?' He was asked if he had any idea what stopped him, +and it was suggested to him that something must have fouled his screw. +He answered, 'I don't know what stopped me, but why the devil didn't I +blow the ship up?' I told him that I had a sort of notion he might be +hanged for using such a fearful weapon. He said, 'No brave man would +hang me; but why,' &c. + +He seemed to have only one idea, and that was he was a fool for having +failed. He was too good a man to let go, so we kept him till nearly the +end of the war. + +Wherever he may be now he is a fine fellow, whose bravery I for one +shan't forget in a hurry. + +A short time after the above-named occurrence the Russians attempted an +attack upon Sulina by land and water, with what object I have never been +able to understand; as, if they had succeeded, they could not have held +it so long as our ships were anchored in the offing. Perhaps their +intention was, by driving us out of the river, to utilise its position +for torpedo attacks. + +I have explained that Sulina was surrounded by sea and vast marshes. +Along the seashore there was a narrow causeway of sand, on which ten men +could march abreast. The only other approaches were by sea and by the +river, the latter, at about ten miles distance, being in the hands of +the Russians. As a defence we had placed on the beach, at about a +gun-shot's distance, several torpedoes, buried in the sand, and +connected by electric wires with the batteries of Sulina. A simultaneous +movement was made by three or four Russian gun-boats descending the +river, and two regiments of troops accompanied by artillery were sent +along the causeway. Suspecting something in regard to torpedoes, they +drove before them as a sort of advance guard about two hundred and fifty +horses without riders, it being the duty of the poor animals to take the +shock of the explosion should torpedoes be placed on the beach. And so +they did, for, on the horses passing the spot where the torpedoes were +placed, an explosion took place through which several horses were +killed. The rest turned right back, and the causeway being very narrow, +dashed amongst the advancing troops, causing the greatest confusion, so +much so that the whole party had to retreat and we saw them no more. + +It is true that one of the small ironclads had about got the range of +the advancing enemy along the sea-beach, so making their position rather +precarious, but I believe that the real cause of the failure was the +action of the horses. + +In the meantime, the light draft Russian gun-boats came down the river, +and began to fire shell and shot at a long range at the small town and +fortifications of Sulina. This was answered by the temporary batteries +alone, the ships being out of range. Desultory fighting went on for +about twenty-four hours, when the Russians, finding the hopelessness of +the enterprise, especially now that the troops had retired, gave it up +as a bad job and steamed up the Danube again. This was the only serious +attack made upon Sulina, which Russia could never have taken and held +till she had destroyed the Turkish fleet. After this I went to Batoum, +which place Dervish Pasha was gallantly holding against Russia. He was +sadly in want of naval help, as the Russians had advanced by the +sea-shore to within six miles of that much-coveted port. On arriving +there I took the command of eight Turkish ships of war, besides +transports that were constantly coming and going between Constantinople +and Batoum with provisions, ammunition, &c., for the army and navy. +Here, again, if the Russians could have disposed of the Turkish fleet +they would have easily taken Batoum. By commanding the sea, even with a +couple of vessels, they would have prevented supplies being sent. It +must be remembered there was no way of supporting the soldiers and +sailors except by sea. My first object was to drive the Russians, by the +fire of the ships, more inland. This was easy enough, as of course the +enemy had no guns with them to compare in range with those on board the +ironclads. Some time after my arrival, however, they brought down two +fifteen centimetre Krupp guns from Ardahan, guns that had a considerably +longer range than our twelve-ton Armstrongs. They gave us some trouble; +however, the position of the attacking camp was changed so as to be out +of range of our guns, a move in every way satisfactory to the Turkish +military commander. This action of our fleet gave great annoyance to the +enemy, and it was determined if possible to make our lying at Batoum a +dangerous if not impossible matter. This was to be done by the so-called +almighty torpedo. I received notice from our secret agent at Sebastopol +that a serious expedition was being organised, that the Turkish ships at +Batoum were to be destroyed or _frightened away_ at any cost. +_Frightened away, indeed!_ To the uninitiated a torpedo is a thing to +frighten any one away. We had heard of magnificent results of torpedo +trials in peace, how ships (I fancy only hulks) had been blown up, +columns of water half a mile high being sent into the air, &c. Nothing, +it was said, could save you. Whatever my ideas, however nervous I may +have felt, I knew that those I was commanding had no fear--they don't +know what it means, the more especially of a not understood possible +casualty, and though more enlightened as to torpedoes and their accepted +effects, I wasn't to show my people a bad example. When lying in bed in +the middle of the night, having read the warning letter before retiring, +I thought:--'Suppose one of these nasty things goes off and blows the +flagship up at this moment. How pleasant! What cowardly things these +are; no fair fight, up you go, unshriven. I have heard that a man who is +hanged is likely to go to heaven; I wonder if the same chance would be +given to him blown up by a torpedo?' These sort of feelings came over +me. However, said I, 'Let us see if we can prevent their being +realised;' so I went to work to try to do so. As a sportsman I +calculated that to fire at a dark object in the night, especially when +that object had a background of high hills such as we had at Batoum, was +most difficult, so the first order I gave was no lights, not even a +cigarette light; utter darkness under severe penalties. Next, +considering that Batoum is a very small port, with an entrance difficult +to find even in broad daylight, almost impossible in the night without +the lighthouse as a guide, I ordered that the lighthouse should not be +lighted. Then I arranged with the shore authorities that no lights +should be seen in the town; this was more difficult, as there were many +Russian friendlies in Batoum. + +However, the application of somewhat severe discipline made Batoum like +a city of the dead after dark. + +In addition to these precautions I put a barrier of booms ahead of the +ships lying in the port, placed guard-boats to watch it at the entrance +of the harbour, and having done all this, I bided my time. For some +nights, rather sleepless to me, though to my disgust I heard my officers +snoring all round me, nothing happened (though, as I heard afterwards, a +good deal had been going on outside the harbour), when, at about three +o'clock in the morning of the third or fourth night after I had received +the warning, I heard a row going on in the direction of the guard-boats +and an explosion near to one of the outlying ships. I had hardly time to +think, when something struck the chain of my flagship and seemed to spin +past, like a fish in the water. Then dead silence. I immediately sent +orders to the two fast cruisers, which were lying with steam up, to go +to sea and reconnoitre. + +Suddenly I heard people on shore calling out (I forgot to mention that +ships in Batoum harbour are always lashed to the shore). I sent my +officer to reconnoitre, who found a gaping crowd standing round what +they thought was a large fish lashing his tail, but what in reality was +an unexploded torpedo with the screw still in motion. On things being +calm I went myself to see what had happened generally during the attack, +and found that a torpedo had struck the bows of one of the ironclads on +the belt, at the waterline at an angle, had exploded, and scarcely left +a mark; that a second torpedo had, after passing through the planks on +the defensive barrier I had placed, _diverged from its course_, and gone +quietly on shore as far as the left of the squadron; that a third, as I +said, had struck the chain of the flagship and not gone off, but had run +on to the beach. The parts of another torpedo were afterwards picked up, +it evidently having exploded somewhere down below. So we could account +for four torpedoes having been fired at us without effect; probably +there were more. Those that were on the beach were in a very perfect +state, and as soon as we had rendered them harmless, we made prisoners +of war of them. Now I have been since informed of what went on outside +Batoum. It seems that for three nights two fast Russian steamers, +carrying torpedo boats, had been looking for Batoum, and as one of my +informants said, 'We could not find it for love or money.' A couple of +hours before daylight they had steamed off, so as to be out of sight +before break of day. At last they had bribed a man to light a fire in +the hills behind the town, and so on the fourth night they got +somewhere near it, but they could not make out the ships on account of +the _dark land behind_ them. The time for steaming off having nearly +come, they determined to have a shot at us, so fired five torpedoes into +what they thought the centre of the Turkish fleet, with what result we +have seen. The person who told me was one of them, and said it was +sickening work looking for Batoum. It is true the nights were fearfully +dark, so that the shape of the land could not be made out. He said that +without the traitor's light they could not have found us. I am not +saying by this that one should always trust to darkness; there are many +other ways _now_ of taking the sting out of torpedo attacks. It is +needless to say that the steamers I sent out returned, having seen +nothing. While the fleet was at Batoum, two or three more torpedo +attacks were made on a smaller scale without effect; but I have bored my +readers enough about torpedoes--all I know is that I can sleep now when +in their vicinity. While in the Black Sea I several times went with two +or three ships that could be spared from other duties and reconnoitred +Sebastopol and Odessa, but being fully convinced of the helplessness of +few or even of _many_ ships against the heavy batteries of the present +day, I did no more than look about me, occasionally exchanging shots +with the enemy. As to burning defenceless towns and villages, I have +always been thoroughly adverse to such things, so I never undertook it. +Some people think war should be made as horrible as possible; in this I +do not agree. I could easily have burnt the Emperor's palace at Yalta, +but did not think it expedient to do so. + +I have already spoken in general terms of the great services rendered by +the ironclads in moving the troops about, but I feel that, in justice to +the gallant crews of the squadron I had the honour to command during the +war, I ought not to bring this portion of my narrative to a close +without mentioning more particularly a piece of work of that nature +executed under my immediate direction. + +The capture of Soukhoum-Kaleh had been followed up by the despatch of an +expedition of some 4,000 men of all arms to a place some thirty miles +down the coast, called Tchamchira. The military commander at Soukhoum +had some idea, I believe, that this force would be able to make its way +inland, and thus encourage risings amongst the tribes against the +detested Muscovite rule. The country, however, was too unfavourable for +the advance of invading troops, being swampy ground with thick bush +where it was not an impenetrable forest. The Russians also got wind of +the intended movement, and to make a long story short, had managed to +collect a large opposing force. The expedition was landed, but that is +all. Before much could be done to secure the position as a base--whilst +the men in fact were making entrenchments--the Russians, who under cover +of the forest that extended right down to the beach on either side had +been stealthily making their preparations, attacked them on all sides, +and but for the covering fire of the ironclads, fortunately still at +anchor there, would undoubtedly have driven them into the sea. + +The result of this action enabled the force to establish itself in the +village, and hold possession of the small belt of cleared ground around +it, the extreme limit of which was still within the range of the guns of +the ironclads. + +The position of this force, however, daily grew worse. The Russians had +captured the fords, by which their retreat to Soukhoum was cut off. They +were completely surrounded, and only owed their preservation to the +continual presence of an ironclad. Under these circumstances it was +thought advisable to withdraw the men, and Dervish Pasha entrusted me +with the task. To give an idea of the precarious position of this force, +I may mention that, as I approached the place in my flagship, we heard +the sound of smart cannonading, and I found the guard-ship engaged with +a battery of field-pieces. The Russians had recently received a large +accession of force, and several field-guns of large calibre; and so, not +content with troubling the camp daily with an enfilading fire, had +thought to try conclusions with the heavy guns afloat. On our appearance +the action ceased, the Russians withdrawing their battery into the safe +shelter of the forest. The Russian fire had been well directed, and had +the guns been heavier calibre, considerable damage would have been +inflicted. As it was, the upper works and rigging were cut about a great +deal, and two men killed and four wounded on board the ironclad. After a +conference with the general in command, I proceeded to Soukhoum to make +arrangements for transport. I had hardly arrived there when a message +from Tchamchira arrived, urgently demanding assistance, as the Russians +were advancing in great force. I hurried back with all the vessels I +could collect to Tchamchira, three ironclad corvettes and two wooden +paddle-wheel transports. Fortunately the Russian attack had not +commenced, and the arrival of my squadron probably led to its +postponement until too late. To remove 4,000 men, bag and baggage, with +several batteries of field-pieces and a large amount of ammunition, was +no easy task with the small amount of transport at my command. I made, +however, what I considered to be the best disposition possible under the +circumstances. + +The corvettes and the paddle transports were moored in as close to the +shore as possible, my intention being to cram them with men and stores +first, leaving my flagship free to the last to manoeuvre off the Russian +camp and shell it, should the slightest opposition be offered to the +embarkation. The work commenced at daylight, and was actively carried on +throughout the day and following night, the last batch of men coming off +at dawn. The men were taken away from under the very teeth, as it were, +of the Russians. The ships in shore were well within rifle range, and +the boats passing to and fro were exposed the whole time to a fire from +hidden foes. The enemy had been evidently overawed by my preparations, +and doubtless thought it would be better for them to allow the invading +force to retire unopposed. To avoid the chance of grounding, in case I +should have to use the frigate fire to cover the embarkation, a +volunteer crew had proceeded off the Russian camp during the night, and +laid down a line of buoys, to show the limit of distance to which the +shore might be approached with safety. These buoys, glistening in the +sunlight, doubtless suggested to the Russians that something dreadful +was in store for them if they attempted to fire a gun, and so they +contented themselves with watching from the trees, amongst the branches +of which we saw a number of them perched like so many birds of prey. The +whole credit of the embarkation is due to the efficient manner in which +the naval officers under my command carried out the instructions given +them, and the great docility of the Turkish soldiers. Soon after sunset +the general and staff left the shore, and their example was followed by +every military officer of any rank; so that the whole work devolved upon +those I had placed in command of the beach and the boats. + +The men marched down quietly by themselves and everything went on like +clockwork. I must confess that I passed a most anxious night, as I knew +not but what at any moment the enemy might make a rush into the +entrenchments the Turks were abandoning, in order to claim a victory. My +own ship was getting lumbered up, and I knew that before long it would +be impossible to work more than one or two of the guns in case of need. +That the Russians, however, could not know this, was my comfort; but I +must own that it was a great relief to me when the last detachment left +the shore. The poor fellows had been holding the outposts all night. +They came in at the double, and little time was lost over their +embarkation. + +We steamed off at once to Soukhoum, and there disembarked the +expedition. Shortly after this I was called upon to prepare for a +veritable exodus. The evacuation of Soukhoum had been decided upon, but +His Imperial Majesty felt that the poor people, who had been expecting a +permanent deliverance from the Russian yoke, could not be abandoned to +those whose vengeance they had excited. Intimation was therefore given +that all those desirous of leaving the country should be carried to +Turkish territory, and provided with lands to form new settlements. The +whole population pretty well made up its mind to leave, and came +marching into Soukhoum with their flocks and herds, and household goods +and chattels. Suffice it to say that, with the vessels under my command, +I shipped off and landed at Batoum, Trebizonde, Sinope, and other ports +on the Turkish coast something like 50,000 people, counting men, women, +and children, within the space of a fortnight. + + + + +CHAPTER XX. + +SPORT IN TURKEY. + + +I will now endeavour to give my readers some idea of life at +Constantinople. If the resident is a sportsman he can find plenty of +amusement, game of all descriptions being plentiful. I may say that the +shooting begins about September 1, when great flights of quails pass the +environs of Constantinople, from the threatening winter of Russia to the +warmer climate of Egypt, and afford capital amusement. But really to +enjoy the sport it is necessary to go somewhat far, within ten miles of +Constantinople. The fields during the quail season are filled with +so-called sportsmen to such an extent that one has every chance of being +mistaken for a quail, and potted accordingly. I have counted at St. +Stephano, a place about nine miles from Stamboul, celebrated for +_treaties_ and quails, both in due season, more than five hundred +sportsmen accompanied by howling curs of every description. Such a +sight is worth looking at, but for sport, well--it is better to leave +gun and dogs at home. + +I once ventured out among the motley crowd of quail-shooters; there +happened to be a flight of quails, so the fire kept up very much +resembled a field-day on Southsea Common. I was hit all over with (thank +goodness!) very small shot, and made a rapid retreat to save my skin +from perforation. + +However, going some distance along the coast, away from the enemy, one +may at times get capital sport during the months of September and +October; for example, a single gun may bag a hundred and fifty to two +hundred quails in a day. + +After the quail comes the partridge shooting, which is very good, +especially in the islands of the Turkish archipelago, where there are +great numbers of red-legged partridges affording famous sport. + +To properly enjoy the shooting in Turkey a yacht is necessary, as the +best of it is to be found in the islands and near to the sea-coast, in +places quite inaccessible to roads. + +For example, the islands of Mitros, Lemnos, and Mytelene abound in +partridges, and the shooting there is really capital. + +Either by bringing a yacht from England, or by hiring one at +Constantinople, the real sportsman may have great amusement while +shooting, with Constantinople as headquarters. He will find in Asia +Minor deer of all descriptions, wild boars and wolves. Then he will have +capital sport with geese, ducks, woodcocks and partridges, and snipe. + +Occasionally he must rough it somewhat while sleeping in villages some +little distance from the sea-coast for a night or two, instead of +retiring on board his floating home, and on this head I would give a +word of advice to the sportsman. Always take up your quarters in a +Turkish village, if possible, in preference to a Greek village. At the +former you will find the traditional hospitality of the Oriental, even +among the very poor people, practised in every sense of the word; whilst +in the latter you will be _exploite_ (there is no English word that +signifies as well what I mean) to the last degree, even to the pilfering +of your cartridges. + +I have seen on arriving at a Turkish village every one vie with the +other, and doing their very utmost to make the sportsman and his party +comfortable. I have seen 'harems,' such as they are, cleaned out and +prepared as a sleeping apartment, all the inmates huddling together in +some little corner. I have remarked one old woman arrive with a couple +of eggs, another with what was perhaps her pet fowl, to be sacrificed at +the altar of hospitality--in fact, only one idea seemed to animate them, +namely, hospitality, and it is touching to see how they shrink from the +proffered reward made by the sportsman on leaving these kind though poor +and long-suffering people. + +There are different kinds of deer to be found in Asia Minor, which +strangely enough imitate the habits of the inhabitants, Greek, Turk, and +Armenian, by not herding together. + +First, there is the large red deer which generally inhabit the high +mountains and are difficult to get, except when the winter snow drives +them down into the lower grounds. I have been fortunate enough to kill +several of these splendid animals during my sojourn in Turkey. I will +give my readers an account of how I shot two of them. One day during the +winter, when the mountains were covered with snow, I received news that +three deer of the largest description were in a ravine at the foot of a +mountain some six hours' distance from Ismidt. I immediately started off +in pursuit. I must mention that all persons of high rank in Turkey have, +or had at the time I write of, by their shooting firman, the right to +call upon the villagers in the neighbourhood in which they are shooting +to assist in driving or searching for game. In my case it was not +necessary to take advantage of such an offer; every one was on the alert +for my arrival. The people told me that that very morning they had seen +the noble beasts I was after, grazing outside the wood. So, gathering +the villagers, boys carrying horns, men (much against my will) carrying +guns, accompanied by every available dog, from the grand shepherd's dog +to the yapping cur of the village, off we started. + +The ravine was thickly wooded, and extended far up the mountain, where +it ended in a bare spot without trees. To this place I went alone, +leaving the crowd behind me with directions not to move till I was in my +place, which instruction they most strictly followed. After half an +hour's walk I arrived at the place I have named. I had hardly time to +regain my breath when I heard a row below me as if Bedlam had been let +loose. I loaded my gun with buckshot in one barrel and ball in the +other, and remained as quiet as a mouse. As the noise of the beaters and +dogs approached me, I heard a crash in the bushes within about forty +yards of me, and presently a magnificent stag as big as a cow came +slowly out of the cover, looking behind him, evidently not expecting an +enemy in front. As soon as he was well clear of the bushes, I fired at +him with buckshot and killed him dead. I hardly had time to think, when, +with a tremendous rush, two other large deer broke out of the wood +straight at me at full gallop. I fired a bullet at the foremost one, +which turned back into the woods apparently wounded, and so it proved, +for it ran among the beaters, evidently having lost its head, and was +soon despatched among dogs, men and guns. He was a stag also, and as I +claimed to have shot him, I may say that I had the luck to shoot a brace +of splendid stags right and left. There is not a sportsman in Europe who +would not have been delighted at such a chance of red deer like these; +such as are not seen anywhere except in Asia Minor. The largest one had +nineteen points to his antlers, weighed when cleaned a hundred and +fifteen okes, equal to three hundred and twenty pounds English measure, +and certainly was the largest stag I have ever met with, either in +Scotland or in Austria. During the sixteen years that I have passed in +the East I have only succeeded in killing four of these splendid +animals. This I attribute very much to the want of proper deerhounds, +which unfortunately I have not been able to procure. + +The crowd of beaters make so much noise that the deer slip away at the +sides of the thick covers unseen, whereas dogs would drive them more in +a straight line towards the shooters if they are properly posted. In +addition to this, it is always a great advantage when the hounds give +tongue, and so warn the sportsman of the whereabouts of the game. These +hounds, called 'colpoys,' can be procured in Roumania and Hungary. There +is another description of deer found near the sea-coast in some parts of +Asia Minor, which I will describe. It is in fact the pure wild fallow +deer that stocks the parks of Europe, and if I am rightly informed is +only to be found wild in Asia Minor, and even there it is rare. + +I understand that in India or in Africa, where there are hundreds of +different sorts of deer, the real fallow is not to be found. While +shooting at a place called Camaris, near to Gallipoli, two years since, +I discovered several herds of these deer, beautiful creatures, wild as +hawks, and accordingly laid myself out to shoot some of them if +possible. I tried driving, stalking, and every manoeuvre to circumvent +them, without success. At last one day I started with my beaters to a +place where there were many tracks of fallow deer. I was posted at a +sort of small mountain pen, having on one side of me a young friend of +mine, and at the other a native (these fellows won't go out unless they +are allowed to carry their guns). + +Shortly after the beaters had begun to halloo, a fallow hind glided by +between me and my young friend, like a ghost. Not a sound in the wood +gave notice of its approach. It was even quieter in its movements than a +hare would have been. I put up my gun to fire, but seeing my friend's +head right in the way and in a line with its muzzle, I waited a second, +but the deer was gone. I had scarcely got over my disappointment when I +heard the branches breaking in the wood very near to me, and suddenly a +deer sprang right over my head, taking a flying leap, like a hunter +would do over a fence. + +This unusual action on the part of the deer called for unusual action on +my part. As he had taken a flying leap over my head, I took a flying +shot at him a second before he landed on the other side of me. The +result was that he rolled over like a rabbit, shot _from underneath_ +through the heart. This deer proved to be a very fine specimen of the +fallow, every point showing him to be of that species, except his +antlers, which were quite straight. This I cannot account for; the +natives, who had remarked this deer on several occasions feeding with +the herd of fallow deer, called it the 'Cassic Boa,' which means +'straight-horned.' Some time after this I had some good sport with the +fallow deer. Having got more accustomed to their habits, I found that it +was of no use trying to approach them, their scent being too keen, their +eyesight too sharp; the only way to get them is by very careful, in fact +I may say scientific, driving. + +Good boar shooting may be had by going some little distance from +Constantinople. It usually is done either by beaters or with boarhounds; +but I have had very good sport at boar while hunting for woodcocks and +pheasants, in what may be called covert shooting--not exactly English +covert shooting, in which almost every tree is known by the keepers, but +in coverts of great extent, in which there are almost impassable +thickets, made still more impassable by a well-known bramble called the +'wait a bit,' a thing that hooks on to your eyelids as you pass. + +There it is that in these coverts spaniels, half-English, half +country-bred dogs, do frequently the work of beaters, and it is a +strange fact that while piggy starts at once from his lair at the +approach of the boarhounds, he will not budge an inch for the little +yapping spaniel, whom he treats with contempt. + +I have known many instances when, on hearing a jolly row in the covert, +I have crawled in on my hands and knees, and found a boar being bayed by +my spaniels--in fact, I have killed more pigs in this way than in any +other. The danger is that you may have your dogs killed by the boar; +this has happened to me on one or two occasions, more especially with +young dogs. + +I had once a cunning old spaniel dog (poor 'Dick,' well known to most +sportsmen out here), who has frequently come out of the wood with his +mouth full of pig's hair, he evidently having torn the hair off the +animal while laying in his lair. (Dick was never hurt by a pig.) I have +often surrounded, with my brother sportsmen and myself, large bushes in +which the piggies were securely hidden, driven them out, and shot them +as one would do hares or rabbits. + +I have heard a good deal of the danger of pig shooting, on account of +the savage propensities of the animal; but I have found that, with very +rare exceptions, the Anatolian wild boar always runs. It is true that +they (she or he, the females are the most savage) have a nasty knack of +giving a sort of jerk with their heads, when fighting or even passing an +enemy, and that jerk means to a man the ripping up of his leg from his +heel to his thigh, to a dog the tearing open of his entrails. + +On one occasion I was out cock shooting, when some shepherds' dogs in a +valley adjoining that in which I was walking started a large wild boar, +a beast they call a '_solitaire_,' from the fact that he is always seen +after a certain time of life alone. The animal made for a ridge dividing +the valleys; on getting there he passed along the sky-line, about eighty +yards from where I was. I changed my cartridges and fired a ball at the +pig, who rushed away, apparently unshot; on going to the spot, however, +where he had passed when I fired, I found some drops of blood. This +blood I traced for about half a mile, till I came to a large clump of +bushes into which my spaniels dashed, evidently close to their game. I +heard a tremendous row in the bushes, had hardly time to prepare when +the great beast with his eyes all bloodshot and foaming at the mouth +rushed straight at me. I was on a narrow path, from which there was no +escape, as the boar was tearing up it, followed by the dogs. I fired a +ball straight in his face, at the distance of about two yards, in spite +of which he rushed straight on, knocked me clean over, and while passing +me made the usual dangerously effective jerk I have alluded to above, by +which he cut my _boot from the ankle to the thigh_, drew a little blood +just above and inside of the knee; after which the boar rushed headlong +for about thirty yards and dropped dead. I found that my bullet had +smashed through his forehead straight between the eyes and gone into his +brain. + +He was an enormous brute, weighing when cleaned twenty-one stone; +carrying the finest tusks I have seen anywhere as belonging to a wild +boar. I only had one man with me; we were what may be called eight miles +from anywhere. Still I was determined not to leave my prize; so I sent +my man for a country waggon, and sitting down on my now harmless beast, +smoked cigarettes and waited quietly till the vehicle came. + +Now, _apropos_ to wild boar attacking people, I am convinced that this +animal had no intention of attacking me. + +He was, though badly wounded by the first shot, running from the dogs, +and I got in his way. _Voila tout_! On only one other occasion I nearly +came to grief while boar shooting. On my arriving at a Turkish village +one night, I was told that there was an enormous boar in the +neighbourhood, who for a long time had been the terror of the country, +inasmuch as he, accompanied by a large party of the pig tribe, had +rooted up the crops all round the village, destroyed gardens, and +tradition even said had killed children and eaten them (this latter +story I don't take in). However, the poor people prayed me with tears in +their eyes to rid them of their enemy, which I promised to do if +possible. So the next morning off we started in the following order: +first, myself and friends, accompanied by the elders of the village +armed with old-fashioned guns; then the young men with knives and big +sticks, the women and children bringing up the rear as lookers-on. I and +my two friends were escorted into the centre of a large wood, in which +very original _seats in trees_ had been knocked up for us. The object of +these seats was for our personal safety, but I as a sportsman saw at +once that to be up a tree was not only advantageous in that respect, but +also that we should be much more invisible, hidden among the branches of +a tree, than by being stationed on the ground. So we mounted our trees, +and the beaters went into the woods some half a mile from us. I never +heard such a row as they made when they began the drive; they beat +drums, fired guns, rang bells, and it was evident to me that no wild +beast would hold to his lair under such a torrent of abuse. I found the +words they were using were curses on the wild boar. I saw two or three +fallow deer glide past me, with their usual ghostlike silence, and +shortly afterwards the woods very near me seemed to shake with +something coming. Suddenly some fifteen to twenty wild boar appeared +among the bushes, coming straight towards me. The first of these was an +enormous brute, evidently _the_ boar we wanted. + +I heard shots on either side of me from my friends, but I kept my eye on +the big boar. To my astonishment he came right under the tree where I +was sitting, and stopped to listen. + +He cocked his head on one side, looked all round him, but forgot to look +up the tree he was quite close to, in which was his enemy. + +Taking advantage of this I fired a ball and an S.S.G. cartridge into +him, before he could make up his mind which way to go; he gave a +tremendous grunt and rolled over. I had not time to be overjoyed at my +luck before I found myself rolling on the ground alongside of my victim, +who, not being dead, was by no means a pleasant companion. The fact is +that the seat on which I had been perched, having been very carelessly +put up, had given way, and down I came from a height of about twelve +feet. The branches of the tree had broken my fall, but my gun had fallen +out of my hand and I had sprained my ankle, so that I was in rather an +awkward position. The boar was shot through the spine, and could not +get along, though he made frantic efforts to get at me. + +It was of no use my calling out for help; everybody was calling out, +everybody was excited, firing at the lots of pigs that were running +about in all directions. At the moment when I began to think affairs +somewhat serious (I tried to get up and walk, but could not do so on +account of my ankle), as the boar was crawling towards me, looking very +mischievous, two great shepherd's dogs arrived on the scene, and went +straight in for my enemy. Poor beast! He made a gallant fight; he could +hardly move, but he could use his head, and he tore one of the dogs open +in a frightful way; then two or three men came up, but they were afraid +to go near to the boar. I made them hand me my gun that was lying on the +ground near me, with which I soon put a stop to the battle. Then all the +people began to muster round their dead enemy, and it was laughable to +see and hear how they abused and kicked the body of the pig. How to get +the carcass away was the next question. We sent for two waggons and four +or five Christians (as the Turks won't touch pig), one to carry me, the +others the boar; so, after being placed in the waggons, we made with +piggy a triumphant return to the village. Luckily the village was on the +sea-shore, and my yacht was lying close to the land, so I got on board +comfortably; but it was several days before I could walk. + +I believe that that pig was _nasty_, and would have given me the jerk if +he could have done so. Five other boar were killed on that occasion, one +of my friends killing two; but I had the honour of killing _the_ boar of +the period in that part of the world. While referring to that +neighbourhood, I would mention that it was within five miles of the +place I have been writing about that poor Captain Selby, of H.M.S. +'Rapid,' was killed, some two years since. There are people who think +that he was attacked and murdered by robbers. Such is not the case; his +death was a most unfortunate occurrence brought on by a +misunderstanding. + +It is true that the man who shot poor Selby was an ignorant savage, but +there was no premeditation. It was a word and a blow. The latter, though +inexcusable to the last degree, was given by a ruffian whose class are +in the habit of shooting and stabbing one another (let alone strangers, +whom they detest) at the slightest provocation. They are not natives of +Turkey, but come of strange tribes who live far away and are hired to +guard the sheep in the winter months, returning to their homes in the +summer. I went myself to the spot where the sad occurrence took place +shortly afterwards, and found the people very penitent and very +frightened. Let us hope that the punishment awarded to the principal +actors in the sad affair will be a salutary warning for the future. + +As brigandage may be considered as in some way connected with sporting, +inasmuch as many refrain from going out shooting when they fear being +robbed and murdered, I will say a few words about brigandage in +Anatolia. + +I have been for seventeen years an ardent lover of sport in Turkey, and +have generally shot in Asia Minor. I have slept in villages that were +supposed to be inhabited by brigands. I have been almost alone among an +armed crowd of beaters, all of whom had the reputation of being robbers, +but I have never been robbed or threatened with robbery. Perhaps there +exists a sort of sympathy between brigands and sportsmen, for I cannot +call to mind any instance of a sportsman being robbed. It is true that +sometimes a fat financier, or rich _rentier_, who may have called +himself a sportsman, has been carried off and ransom demanded for him, +but a real sportsman never. + +It is true that in some of the villages where dwell the peoples of a +nation I am not supposed to love, you are liable to and probably will +be _exploite_ to a considerable extent in the way of pilfering +cartridges, &c., but it is their nature to. So, brother sportsmen, when +you come out here take your abode in Turkish villages. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +SPORT AND SOCIETY. + + +I have mentioned, in what I have written above relating to sport, the +name of a somewhat celebrated spaniel of mine, whose name was 'Dick.' + +The commencement of this bow-wow's career was as strange as the many +adventures he afterwards went through. When he was quite a young dog, he +once worked with me all day in ice and snow, and at last fell down +lifeless. A heavy snowstorm was raging, and as poor Dick seemed quite +dead, we made him a grave in the snow and covered him up with leaves and +bushes. We accomplished this with difficulty, on account of the blinding +snow and the streams that were much swollen by torrents from the +mountains. Dick's burial-place was about eight miles from where the +vessel was lying. We all got on board that night. I was deeply grieved +at the loss of the dog, who had already shown great promise as a +first-class sporting dog, a most difficult thing to procure in this +country. What was our astonishment the next morning at daylight to see +Dick on the beach, making piteous howls to draw attention to his +whereabouts. He was warmly welcomed, as may be supposed; he did not seem +a bit the worse for his brief sojourn in the grave, and went out +shooting again the same day as happy as ever. This enthusiastic little +spaniel was always doing strange things; he followed every fox and every +badger into their holes, and we have had, time after time, to dig him +out covered with blood and fearfully mauled, after having passed perhaps +twenty-four hours in the earth. + +Mr. Dick generally hunted alone, occasionally coming near to see that I +was all right. Now this sounds bad for Dick's qualities as a sporting +dog, but such a dog is necessary in a thickly-wooded region such as I +shot in, when one wants to know what is in the country. + +Dick, when he found anything, barked loudly; and this drew attention to +the fact that there was game in that quarter. Sometimes, of course, he +drove the game away; at others he drove it towards me. At all events he +went to places where I never could have gone. On one occasion I heard a +great noise among some long reeds near a lake were I was duck +shooting--Dick barking, some other animal making a strange noise. This +went on so long that at last I went to see what was the matter. After +much trouble I got into the reeds and approached the noise, which was +momentarily getting worse. On coming close I found an animal about +Dick's size standing on its hind legs and fighting with its fore paws, +Dick covered with blood, fighting hard and watching an opportunity to +close with his enemy. On my approach the animal dropped on to fore paws +and endeavoured to escape, on which Dick jumped on to him, thus making +it very difficult for me to use my gun. However, at last, by watching my +opportunity, I fired a shot which disposed of the fighting powers of the +beast, which turned out to be a very large badger. I never could +understand what he was doing so far away from his place of refuge. Was +he after ducks, or what? The animal was at least a quarter of a mile +away from dry land, being in the middle of a marsh, overgrown with +reeds. Another of Mr. Dick's adventures ended more unfortunately for +him, as I fear he never got over its effects. I again, as on the last +occasion, heard him evidently furiously engaged with something in a +thick wood. After crawling on my hands and knees for some time, I found +Dick and two other of my spaniels in furious combat with an enormous +wild cat, who when I came up was holding her own against the dogs. The +beast got her back against a tree, and was fighting all three dogs, +keeping them at a respectful distance. My man seized a piece of wood, +more like a little tree than a stick, and made a blow at the cat, which +blow unfortunately came down with great force on Dick's head. The poor +dog lay senseless for some time, and then crawled away, seeming to say, +'I'll have nothing more to do with you.' He never recovered that blow, +and became quite a different dog, dying some months afterwards. + +The feathered game shooting is very good in the neighbourhood of +Constantinople. Pheasants, though rare, may be obtained five or six in a +day. I have killed fifteen to my own gun, and with a party of three we +bagged sixty-six in three days. + +Snipe shooting is also very good. An idea of the bags that may be made +will be seen when I say that at Besika Bay, close to the Dardanelles, I +killed in three days three hundred and three snipe, an average of one +hundred and one a day. When there is snow lying on the hills there are +plenty of cock; myself and two friends having killed in three days two +hundred and ninety-eight long bills. + +My best bag in cock has been sixty-three in one day's shooting alone. I +have lately taken to punting after ducks, and have been very successful. +One gets twenty to thirty a day, and occasionally a swan. I once killed +four of the latter with one shot from my punt gun (one of Holland & +Holland's). Hares are not very numerous; to get three or four in a day +is counted good luck; but one generally picks up one or two during a +day's shooting. Thus the sum of what you have in this country is red +deer, fallow deer, roe deer, pigs, wolves, and bears (as to the latter, +rare), hares, pheasants, cocks, snipe, quails, and ducks; so that a man +who lays himself out for sport and has a yacht can have plenty of +amusement between September and March. + +The coast of Karamania, taking in all the coast from some distance below +Smyrna, passing Rhodes and so on to the Gulf of Ayas, affords all the +way along capital sport to yachting men. For example, in the large gulfs +of Boudroum and Marmorice, capital anchorage will be found, and a +country almost virgin as far as sport is concerned. + +Some years since, while commanding an English ship-of-war, I had the +good fortune to be sent on a roving commission against pirates that were +supposed to infest that coast. Somehow I always _imagined_ that pirates +were more or less sportsmen, so I hunted for them in places that looked +gamey, and thus made the acquaintance of many almost unknown, or at all +events unfrequented, harbours and creeks, in which I had famous sport. +On the coast of Karamania the ibex is to be found in considerable +quantities; the red-legged partridge and the francolin are also very +abundant, and give capital sport. + +There are also at the head of the gulf I have alluded to large marshes +for duck and snipe. The most celebrated, because the best known place in +the part I am alluding to, is the Gulf of Ayas, into which runs the +well-known (to all naval sportsmen) river called the Jihoon. A yacht +must anchor at some distance off the entrance of this river, but the +anchorage is quite safe in all weathers. Getting over the bar of the +river is a matter at times of considerable difficulty, but once inside +the bar you are in the paradise of shooting. A small steam launch is +necessary to stem the strong current, and to tow another boat up with +tents, provisions, &c. It is true that in my time we had no steam +launches, and I shall not forget the hard work we had to take two boats +sufficiently far up the river to get well into the shooting grounds, and +even after two days' struggling we did not arrive so far as I should +have wished (we, in fact, only got four miles up the stream). Still we +had some rare sport, the more especially with pigs and francolin. The +morning after we had pitched our tents some wandering Arabs came to us +and offered to beat the woods, which they declared to be full of wild +boar. They told us that the habit of these animals was, on being driven, +to take to the river and swim to the other side; so we placed our guns +along the banks and told the boat to guard the river from pigs swimming +across, and try to stop them as best they could. The guns available for +the shore work consisted of myself and two friends and my coxswain, who +was armed with a ship's rifle. The Arabs went into the bush on +horseback; the beat had hardly begun when a lot of pigs were started, +all making for the river; three of these were knocked over. As they +approached several others dashed into the river, and a most amusing hunt +was made after them by the sailors. Not being armed with rifles, their +weapons of offence against piggy were revolvers, ropes, and the +stretchers of the boats. + +There was, as may be supposed, great excitement among the men when the +pigs took to the water; they at once went at them, firing revolvers, +pulling after them as they swam, using language not allowed in these +refined days in the navy; and, before we got to the scene of action +they had lassoed as it were two fine pigs, and tied them to trees on the +river-side, and when we arrived were firing their revolvers at them +apparently with very little effect; however, we soon gave the animals +the _coup de grace_. Thus we killed five pigs in our first drive. We +took the liver, alias fry, out of the pigs to eat (it is most +excellent), cut off the heads of the tuskers, and hung the remaining +parts on a tree to wait our return, changing our camp further up the +river the same night. The next morning early I took a stroll into the +woods by myself; while looking about me I saw what I thought was a large +animal sleeping in the bushes. I began accordingly to stalk him. I got +within eighty yards, put my gun up to shoot, but as I could not pitch on +a vital part to aim at, only seeing a mass of what was evidently an +animal rolled up, I went nearer and nearer; in fact, little by little, I +got within ten yards of the quarry; then I fired a ball into what I now +saw was a huge pig. No move! What did it mean? I could not have killed +it sleeping. However, I took courage and went close and put my hand on +the beast; what should it be but an immense boar lying dead in his lair. +He must have died months before I found him, as the skin fell to pieces +on being touched, the hair into powder; his head was a splendid one, +but I could only save the jawbones, in which were a grand pair of tusks. +The moral of this was that pigs, like everything else, die--sometimes +quietly in their beds, be that retreat only a lair in the forest; but it +is a rare occurrence to find relics of wild animals in so perfect a +state. I fancy their friends and relations generally eat them. The bed +or lair he was lying in was a most snug spot, and he would have been +quite invisible had not some of the brushwood been burnt away, Arab +fashion, a short time before I found him. + +I must warn any sportsman intending to shoot in the Jihoon river that +the wandering Arabs who are to be found there, though not brigands of a +high order, are petty thieves to the last degree. We were always obliged +to keep a watch in our tents, leaving a man behind in charge when we +went on shooting excursions. On one occasion we found on our return that +our watchman had captured an old woman whom he caught in the act of +creeping under the tent and stealing a spoon. I had myself a curious +adventure. An Arab told me that he knew where a boar was lying in the +long grass, and that he would take me to the spot if I would accompany +him. We started off together, and on getting well into the wood we went +on our hands and knees, crawling under the trees and brushwood, towards +the spot where the boar was supposed to be. We had to keep quite close +together. I carried round my neck a very pretty silver whistle, which I +prized exceedingly. Suddenly, when we were in a very thick part of the +bush, the Arab seized hold of my whistle and held it tight. I +immediately grasped the hand that held the whistle; this I did with my +right hand holding his left. He, with his right hand, tried to draw a +knife. I, with my left, tried to get my gun to bear on him, but there +was so little room to spare on account of the thick bush that both our +operations were difficult of performance. As soon as I saw him trying to +draw a knife, I dropped the hand with the whistle, and seized that with +which he tried to draw the knife. Thus the play went on for two or three +minutes; neither of us spoke, all our energies were directed on our +different games. At last, by turning round a little, I succeeded in +giving him a tremendous kick, which rolled him over on his back; then my +gun was free, and I held it to his head, upon which he took an attitude +of supplication on his knees, and prayed for quarter. I made him give me +his knife, go on all-fours again, and creep before me out of the wood. +This was a most audacious attempt at petty robbery. I should like to +have peppered him a little, but he was so penitent, I decided to let +him go. I don't think he meant to stab me; I think he merely wanted to +cut the string that held the whistle. These men were not generally +murderers. On this trip we killed twelve pigs, a hundred and seven +francolin, one lynx, and lots of cock and ducks. Coming back to the ship +I, and those with me in my boat, very nearly came to utter grief. There +was a good deal of sea on the bar of the river. The cutter that was with +me got over all safe, but my whale-boat being loaded heavily with pigs, +&c., refused to rise with the waves, and not doing so, the consequences +were that she filled and capsized. We had all to jump and make for the +shore, a distance of nearly a mile, being in the greatest danger while +doing so of getting into the current of the river. Any one who had done +this must have been washed away and drowned; however, thank goodness, +all hands were saved. The whale-boat was afterwards picked up, having +been washed out to sea, but we lost all tents, spare guns, &c.; the pigs +remained in the boat, as they were stowed under the thwarts, and hadn't +room to float out; so, friends, take warning of the bar of the Jihoon +river. + +It was about this time that I received a report from some American +missionaries to the effect that one of their comrades had been robbed +and murdered by some Arabs who inhabited the mountains near +Alexandretta, people whose evil deeds had for some time past brought +them into notoriety. Although I was under orders to join the +commander-in-chief, I took it upon myself to remain and assist the +Americans in hunting down if possible the murderers of their comrade. + +I confess I was made more zealous in the cause from hearing that there +were 'lots of big game on the hills.' I invited two or three of these +American missionaries to join my mess, and off we went to look for the +murderers. As this is a chapter on shooting, I will as briefly as +possible state what we did in the official way. In the first place we +anchored at the head of the Gulf of Ayas, near a large town where +resided the chief authority of the neighbourhood in which the murder had +been committed. I landed with the missionaries, several of my officers, +and some marines to act as an escort, and paid an official visit to this +gentleman, who was called the caimakam, or chief magistrate. This great +man told us that we should certainly with his assistance find the people +we were after. He suggested that we should accompany him with a small +body of our men, to which he could add some of his zeptiehs: that thus +accompanied he would go to a place on the hill where we should find +what we wanted. He said that a little 'backsheesh' was necessary. This +latter we found, and the next day we started. + +We ascended amongst the most magnificent wooded hills I ever saw. 'Such +places for game!' thought I, till at last we halted at a clump of +splendid oak trees. Under one of these a grand luncheon was spread, of +which we were all invited to partake. During the luncheon a man rushed +up to our host and whispered in his ear something which seemed to give +him great satisfaction, for he at once smilingly said, 'Captain, I have +found the men you are after;' and sure enough we saw approaching two +ruffianly looking fellows, tied together, and being dragged along by men +on horseback. I hope they were the right men. I will presume that they +were, but they had been very quick in catching them. After my missionary +friend who spoke their language had interrogated the prisoners, he +requested that they might be kept apart, which was done, and they were +given in charge of separate sentinels, to whose horses they were tied. +We then returned to our lunch, our pipes, and our coffee. Suddenly we +heard a pistol shot, a rush, and a scream from the neighbourhood of the +prisoners. It seems that one of them had drawn the pistol from his +guardian's belt, shot him dead, jumped on to the horse, and galloped +off. Everybody, marines and all, tried to follow. Such a row never was +heard; but the man knew the country, and we saw him no more. I was +rather glad, for he must have been a plucky fellow. + +The other prisoner was doubly secured and taken down to the village. He +was afterwards hanged, so justice was satisfied and my work finished. I +got a letter of thanks from the President of the United States, of which +I was and am still very proud, and meant to have used had +blockade-running brought me to grief. + +This business being satisfactorily concluded, I asked my friend the +caimakam if there was any big game to be had. His answer was, 'Chok au +Va,' which meant there was plenty: and he undertook to beat the +neighbouring woods that very day with his men. We were told that there +were plenty of roe deer, foxes, jackals, &c., so we loaded our guns with +S.S.G. cartridges (which means, I may tell it to the uninitiated, +buck-shot). We were stationed on the outskirts of a splendid oak wood +that looked like holding any mortal thing in the way of game. Soon as +the beaters set to work cocks began to fly about in all directions, but +we had an instinct that something more important would turn up, so took +no notice of feathered game. I was watching close, trying to look +through almost impenetrable brushwood, when I heard a rustling sort of +noise near me, and suddenly I caught sight of something which almost +made my hair stand on end--a great tiger leopard, creeping, stealthily +as a cat, out of the wood, within twenty yards of where I was standing. +Fortunately he did not look my way. What was I to do? My gun, as I said, +was loaded with buck-shot; a miss or a wound would have been sure to +bring the brute on top of me. However, I did not hesitate more than a +couple of seconds; I pointed my gun at his heart just behind the +shoulder, and pulled the trigger. The whole charge went straight where I +pointed it, and the tiger rolled over on his back. I put a ball into my +gun and approached him very gingerly. When I got close to him I found he +hadn't a kick in him. His claws were crunched up as if grasping +something, his grand eyes were growing dim, and though, to make all +sure, I fired a ball into his head, it was not necessary, as I found +nine buckshot in the heart. He was a splendid beast, eleven feet from +tip of tail to end of nose. It was said that he had killed a shepherd +some days before, so he deserved his fate. + +Before returning to the ship that evening, we arranged that the Arabs +should turn out the next day to drive the covers on the beach near the +ship, which were supposed to hold deer and pigs. I must mention that +these Arabs are very different to the wandering tribes we had lately +been amongst; they are warlike, unscrupulous, and dishonest. We made an +arrangement with them that _all_ game killed should belong to us, the +beaters being paid in gunpowder, which they prized very much. The Arabs +thought we should only find pig, and as Mussulmen won't touch it, the +bargain was considered satisfactory to both parties. + +It so happened that at the first drive a very fine deer, of a species I +had never seen before, broke cover. I had the luck to shoot him, and as +the ship was lying very near, we hailed her for a boat in which to send +off our game. I saw a good deal of whispering among the Arabs, who, +after some discussion, informed us through one of the missionaries, who +kindly acted as interpreter, that the deer must belong to them, as they +only promised to give the pigs, and they openly declared we should not +take it on board. I wasn't going to stand this, for many reasons. In the +first place it was necessary to show these people that we were their +masters; secondly, by our agreement the deer was ours. When the boat (a +cutter with ten men unarmed) had come on shore, I gave orders for the +men to return and bring their arms and ten marines, also armed. The +Arabs, of whom there were about one hundred armed to the teeth, seemed +firm in their decision; so was I. When I pointed to my armed men, who +were by this time landing, they pointed with the same significant +gestures to their armed men. At this critical moment, my first +lieutenant, seeing that something was wrong, fired a shell right over +our heads to intimidate the Arabs, and the result showed that it had +that effect. The deer was lying on the beach. I ordered the marines to +form a cordon round him, and the sailors to bring up the boat stretchers +on which to lay the animal. When all was ready I gave the command to +carry it away and put it in the boat. The Arabs cocked their muskets and +made a move forward; the marines turned and faced them. I thought we +were in for a fight; however, the bearers carried off their charge and +placed it in the boat, when to my astonishment the Arab chief put down +his musket and came and made his salaam to me, asking if he might be +allowed to visit the ship. I, of course, was delighted. We took him and +several of his friends on board, and the visit ended in their all +getting roaring drunk, being hoisted over the ship's side and landed on +the beach. So passed off what might have been a serious affair. I might +have become involved in a long explanation to show that I was right in +protecting my game by armed force, but under all the circumstances I +feel that I was fully justified in doing so. + +I should like before finishing these sketches to say something about the +society of Constantinople. As one cannot always be out shooting, it is +very important to our happiness to have something to fall back upon in +the social way. I was told once by a very great friend of mine, who saw +that I was inclined to fret, 'to take everything as a joke.' If one's +liver is in good order it is very easy to do so, but sometimes the +contrary is the case, and it makes one at times quite savage to see the +airs that are temporarily put on by those that form the so-called upper +or diplomatic society of Pera. Here are really amiable people so utterly +spoilt by the exalted idea of their own dignity that they become +absolute bores, especially to any one accustomed to good society. If you +go to a soiree you see grouped together, for fear of contamination with +the outsiders (without which a successful party cannot be formed), the +members of the so-called 'sacred circle,' talking to each other in +dignified (or undignified, as the case may be judged) whispers. While +all are cheerful and gay, you scarcely see a smile on the countenances +of these tremendous swells. + +If you go in the street you will meet a creature dressed in most +gorgeous apparel, armed to the teeth with firearms that probably won't +go off, knives and daggers covered with precious stones, walking +solemnly along. If you look carefully among the crowd in his wake you +will discover some one, or ones, walking with an indignant swagger at +being hustled by the vulgar crowd. The man in gold, armed to the teeth, +is what is called a _cavass_, and these swells behind are the +representatives, male or female, of some foreign potentate, taking a +walk. It would be quite _infra dig._ to go without one of these useless +appendages. Again, if an individual not belonging to the 'sacred circle' +meets a foreign representative who condescends to speak to him, and +while he is doing so another member of an embassy 'heaves in sight,' the +first swell will immediately sheer off, looking ashamed at having so far +forgotten himself as to be seen speaking to any one outside 'his +circle.' You may occasionally be invited to the houses of these exalted +personages, but there is always an implied condescension in their +attitude which tends to negative the effect of their good intentions. +And all this is a great pity, because these people must be tired of +each other, and would find quite as much intelligence outside as inside +their circle. Besides, there are charming people among them who would +ornament any society, but their ill-acted airs of 'brief authority' +quite spoil them, and make them, as I said, bores to themselves and to +those who would be their friends. + +I will, in proof of what I say, relate a short anecdote as to what +occurred in the house of a friend of mine. + +This friend gave a very large fancy dress ball, at which two or three +hundred people were present. The ball was in every way a success, but as +the giver did not belong to the 'sacred circle,' the members of that +body only condescended to go for a short time. I have no doubt (for +there are lots of jolly people among them) that they would have liked to +have stopped much longer, but it was not thought 'dignified.' So, after +a short time, most of the 'sacred circle' sneaked away. One of them who +had two charming daughters, devoted to dancing, not having noticed the +departure of the great people till that moment, came hurriedly to my +friend and said, 'Goodnight, I _must go_, every one is gone.' 'Every +one?' said my friend, 'why, look at the rooms, there are at least two +hundred people dancing and amusing themselves.' 'Yes, I see,' said the +diplomat (he was rather a small one), 'but I mean the ambassadors and +their parties, are gone, so I _must_ go; but for once, to please you, +I'll leave my daughters.' I believe my friend answered, 'You may go to +the d----l.' This is a fact, and shows the unfortunate system that ruins +to a great extent the sociability of society in Pera. + +Now it is true that all these people are called barons, counts, +viscounts, &c., but my friend belongs to a right good family, and would +have been more than the equal of many of them had they met in Paris, +London, St. Petersburg, Berlin, or Vienna. The title of baron, &c., +seems to me to be always given to a diplomat _ex-officio_. However, +barons or no barons, the rule of exclusiveness laid down by the 'sacred +circle' at Constantinople is to be deplored as it injures society sadly. +Few large parties are given now except those got up by the great people. +When an outsider sends out invitations for a ball, or any other kind of +_reunion_, the negotiations that go on between the swells as to whether +they should patronise it or not are comical in the extreme. Should ever +so slight an omission in the form of these invitations, or a mere +accident in the delivery thereof, appear to them to touch their dignity, +they will probably all absent themselves in a body, even were it +question of the marriage or the funeral of one of their oldest and most +respectable acquaintances. Not being one of them, and not caring very +much for artificial society, I look on with great amusement. Some one +gave great offence on a late occasion, while describing society in Pera, +by suggesting that if there were a European court here things would be +very different; so they might. People would then find their level, as +they do in other capitals. + +I feel very sorry for the members of the 'sacred circle.' Not only do +they lose much now, but it will be awkward for them when they go back +from whence they came. A short time ago I asked a very high and mighty +personage if she did not fear the change that must come when she left +Constantinople. She answered with great frankness: 'I feel that most of +what you say is correct, but before I came here I was very small fry; +now I know I am a swell, and mean to enjoy myself.' She was like those +reckless ones who cried: 'Let us eat and drink, for to-morrow we die.' I +have seen a stand made by one or two of these mighty ones, an attempt to +break down the system of pompous exclusiveness, but that attempt +unfortunately failed. + +I must say that the foreign colonies in Pera are much to blame, for +they worship with all their minds and all their strength their different +chiefs and chieftainesses, and human nature being weak, &c. &c. + +Apart from the 'sacred circle' there is a nice little society where +people go in for enjoying themselves, and succeed in doing so very +comfortably; but even there, with some few exceptions, there is that +secret longing for one or two of the swells--even a junior secretary of +an embassy is looked upon as a desideratum. + +The Greeks keep very much to themselves; so do the Armenians. The Turks +are exceedingly fond of going into society, but their domestic +arrangements tend to prevent their entertaining. + +His Majesty the Sultan frequently invites European ladies to his dinner +parties, and those who have had that honour must have thoroughly enjoyed +the delicious music and the pleasant entertainments after dinner at the +Palace of Yildiz. I don't see why His Imperial Majesty's example is not +followed by some of his subjects; perhaps we may yet come to that +by-and-by. + +In what I have said about society in Pera I have not meant to be +personal or offensive in any way. My object has been to show up a rotten +system whereby everybody suffers. I have some remote hope that things +may change for the better, especially as one of the chief promoters of +the system has now left Constantinople. + +If I bring these pages to a somewhat abrupt conclusion, it is because I +have had the bad luck to get a chill out shooting, and have been +somewhat seriously ill. However, I have hope that there is 'life in the +old dog yet,' and that I may before long have some other adventures of a +similar description to add to these 'unvarnished sketches' of my life. + + + + +_EXTRACT FROM THE 'DAILY TELEGRAPH,' + +June 21, 1886._ + + +'There will be some slight and melancholy satisfaction to his sorrowing +family, and his many friends, in the knowledge of the fact that Hobart +Pasha, a short time before his death, had prepared for publication a +memoir of his stirring life and adventures. The only fault, if fault +there be, in this record, may lie in the circumstance that its readers +may think it too brief. At all events, we shall be told what Hobart had +been about ever since the year 1836. It is certain that he never was +idle. Even before he had passed his examination for lieutenant, he had +distinguished himself while serving in the squadron told off to suppress +the slave trade in Brazilian waters: and in those days our naval +operations against the Portuguese traders in "blackbirds" involved +considerable peril to life and limb. + +'Eighteen years, however, elapsed before Captain Augustus Hobart was +able to shot his guns in view of the broadside of a European foe. He had +previously enjoyed two years' half-holiday at home; that is to say, he +had been appointed, as a reward for his services in South America, to a +lieutenancy on board the Royal yacht, the Victoria and Albert, then +commanded by the late Adolphus Fitz-Clarence. But in the historically +momentous year 1854 there was serious business to be done by +Lieutenant--now Commander--Hobart. A diplomatic squabble between France +and Russia about the Holy Places in Palestine developed into an angry +quarrel between the Emperor Nicholas, France, and England. We went to +war with Russia. A magnificent squadron of British first-rates was +despatched to the Black Sea with the avowed object of destroying the +Russian Fleet, which had characteristically annihilated the Turkish +Fleet in the harbour of Sinope. We did not do much in the Black Sea +beyond running the Tiger on shore, where her crew were captured by the +Muscovites. We bombarded Odessa perfunctorily, and precisely in that +portion of the city where our shot and shell could do the least harm. We +did not destroy the Russian Fleet, for the sufficing reason that the +Russian Commander-in-Chief sank all his three-deckers full fathom five +in the harbour of Sebastopol. + +'In the Baltic, however, there was a little more fighting to show for +the many millions sterling wrung from the British taxpayer. To the +coasts of Finland was sent a splendid Armada, commanded by one of the +bravest seamen that ever adorned the glorious muster-roll of the Royal +Navy of England, Admiral Sir Charles Napier. Under his orders was +Captain Augustus Hobart, in command of Her Majesty's ship Driver. "Lads, +sharpen your cutlasses!" thus began the memorable manifesto addressed by +the hero of St. Jean d'Acre to the gallant tars. The Baltic fleet was to +do wonders. The lads, with their cutlasses very well sharpened, went +aboard the Russian war-ships before Cronstadt, stormed the seven forts +which guard the entrance to that harbour, and sailed up the Neva even to +St. Petersburg itself. It is true that ere the war was over a spy +informed Lord Augustus Loftus, then Her Majesty's Ambassador at Berlin, +that a certain channel or waterway existed unguarded by any fort at all, +by which a British flotilla with muffled oars could have got quietly +into the Neva without taking the trouble to destroy the Russian fleet or +to blow the seven forts of Cronstadt into the air. The revelations of +the spy went for nothing; and, after the cutlasses of the lads in +blue-jackets had been sharpened to a razor-like degree of keenness, +those blades, for some occult reason, were not allowed to cut deep +enough; the only cutting--and running into the bargain--being done by +the Russian fleet, which, safely ensconced in the harbour of Cronstadt, +defied us from behind the walls of fortresses which we did not care to +bombard. Still, the Baltic fleet was not wholly idle. There was some +fighting and some advantage gained over the Russians at Helsingfors, at +Arbo, and notably at Bomarsund. In all these engagements Commander +Hobart distinguished himself--so brilliantly, indeed, as to be named +with high approval in official despatches. + +'Soldiers in peace, Bacon has remarked, are like chimneys in summer. +Hobart seemed resolved that the aphorism quoted by Francis of Verulam +should not be verified in the case of sailors. The fire of the Earl of +Buckinghamshire's son was always alight, and he became, during the great +Civil War in America the boldest of blockade-runners. When the +Confederacy collapsed Hobart, by this time a Post-Captain, received +overtures of employment from the Turkish Government, and in 1868 he was +appointed, as Admiral Slade had been before him, to a high command in +the Ottoman Navy. It was a curious illustration of the various turns of +fate here below to find in 1869 the Sultan, the Commander of the +Faithful, sending the Giaour Hobart Pasha, the erst Secesh +blockade-runner, to the island of Crete to put down blockade-running on +the part of the intensely patriotic but occasionally troublesome Greeks. +Hobart was entrusted with unlimited powers, and he accomplished his +mission with so much vigour and with so much skill as to insure the good +graces of the Porte, and he soon rose to be Inspector-General of the +Imperial Ottoman Navy. Although his name was necessarily erased from the +list of the Royal Navy when he definitely threw in his lot with the +Sultan on the breaking out of the Turko-Russian war, all English +admirers of pluck and daring were glad to learn at a comparatively +recent period that the Honourable Augustus Charles Hobart Hampden had +been reinstated by Royal command in his rank in the British Navy. + +'It was the good fortune of the distinguished maritime commander just +deceased, to win golden opinions from all sorts of peoples, and his name +and prowess will be as cordially remembered in his native land, and in +the Southern States of America, as on the shores of the Bosphorus and +the Golden Horn. + +'A thorough Englishman at heart, he was none the less a fervent +philo-Turk in politics and convictions, and latterly devoted his talents +and his life to the defence of the integrity of the Ottoman Empire. As +ready with his pen as with his sword, he was a clear, trenchant, +vigorous writer, and could talk on paper as fluently and as cogently +about ironclads and torpedoes as about the wrongs of the natives of +Lazistan, the necessity of upholding the integrity of the Turkish +Empire, and of circumventing the dark and crooked wiles of Russian +diplomacy. Altogether Augustus Charles Hobart was a remarkable +man--bluff, bold, dashing, and somewhat dogged. There was in his +composition something of the mediaeval "condottiere," and a good deal +more of that Dugald Dalgetty whom Scott drew. Gustavus Adolphus would +have made much of Hobart; the great Czarina, Catherine II., would have +appointed him Commander-in-Chief of her fleet, and covered him with +honours, even as she did her Scotch Admiral Gleig, and that other yet +more famous sea-dog, king of corsairs, Paul Jones. It would be unjust to +sneer at Hobart as a mercenary. His was no more a hired sword than were +the blades of Schomberg and Berwick, of Maurice de Saxe and Eugene of +Savoy. When there was fighting to be done Hobart liked to be in it--that +is all. Of the fearless, dashing, adventurous Englishman, ready to go +anywhere and do anything, Hobart was a brilliantly representative type. +Originally endowed with a most vigorous physique, his constitution +became sapped at last by long years of hardship and fatigue incident to +the vicissitudes of a daring, adventurous career. He left Constantinople +on leave of absence some months ago to recruit his shattered health, and +spent several weeks at the Riviera. But it would seem that he +experienced little relief from the delicious climate of the South of +France, and it was on his homeward journey to Constantinople that this +brave and upright British worthy breathed his last. The immediate cause +of his death was, it is stated, an affection of the heart, a term +covering a vast extent of unexplored ground. It would be nearer the +truth to say that the frame of Augustus Charles Hobart was literally +worn out by travel and exposure and hard work of every kind which had +been his lot, with but brief intervals of repose, ever since the day, in +the year 1836, when as a boy of thirteen he joined the Navy as a +midshipman.' + + * * * * * + +It will be gratifying to Englishmen to know that their distinguished +countryman received at his burial all the honours due to his high +station and noble qualities. Such a concourse of people of all ranks and +nations had never been seen at any public ceremony on the Bosphorus as +that which, on July 24, accompanied the remains of Hobart Pasha to their +last resting place in the English cemetery at Scutari, not far from the +spot where a tall granite obelisk records the brave deeds and glorious +death of those heroes who perished in the Crimean War. + +[Footnote 1: It must be understood that both men and boats were +disguised so as to resemble the ordinary fishing coasters about those +parts.] + + + +PRINTED BY + +SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE + +LONDON + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Sketches From My Life, by Hobart Pasha + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES FROM MY LIFE *** + +***** This file should be named 16296.txt or 16296.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/6/2/9/16296/ + +Produced by Steven Gibbs, Janet Blenkinship and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +https://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +https://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at https://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit https://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including including checks, online payments and credit card +donations. To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/16296.zip b/16296.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ed33fc8 --- /dev/null +++ b/16296.zip diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..080678a --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #16296 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/16296) |
